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diff --git a/.gitattributes b/.gitattributes new file mode 100644 index 0000000..6833f05 --- /dev/null +++ b/.gitattributes @@ -0,0 +1,3 @@ +* text=auto +*.txt text +*.md text diff --git a/12064-0.txt b/12064-0.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..6335149 --- /dev/null +++ b/12064-0.txt @@ -0,0 +1,7983 @@ +*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 12064 *** + +NOTES +OF +AN OVERLAND JOURNEY +THROUGH +FRANCE AND EGYPT +TO +BOMBAY. + +BY THE LATE +MISS EMMA ROBERTS. + +WITH A MEMOIR. + +1841 + +This file was produced from images generously made available by +the Bibliothèque nationale de France (BnF/Gallica) at +http://gallica.bnf.fr + + + + + +CONTENTS. + + * * * * * + +MEMOIR + + * * * * * + +CHAPTER I. + +LONDON TO PARIS. + + Departure from London--A French Steam-vessel--Unfavourable + Weather--Arrival at Havre--Difficulties at the + Custom-house--Description of Havre--Embarkation on the Steamer for + Rouen--Appearance of the Country--Inclemency of the Weather--Arrival + at Rouen--Description of Rouen--Departure by the Boat for + Paris--Scenes and Traditions on the Banks of the Seine--Journey by the + Railroad to Paris--The _Douaniers_--Observations on the Journey up the + Seine + + * * * * * + +CHAPTER II. + +PARIS TO MARSEILLES. + + Description of Paris--Departure by the Diligence--The Country--The + Vineyards--Hotels and fare--Arrival at Lyons--Description of + the City--Departure in the Steam-boat for Arles--Descent of the + Rhône--Beauty and Variety of the Scenery--Confusion on disembarking at + Beaucaire--A Passenger Drowned--Arrival at Arles--Description of the + Town--Embarkation in the Steamer for Marseilles--Entrance into the + Mediterranean--Picturesque Approach to Marseilles--Arrival in the + Harbour--Description of Marseilles--Observations upon the Journey + through France by Ladies + + * * * * * + +CHAPTER III. + +MARSEILLES TO ALEXANDRIA. + + Vexations at the Custom-house--Embarkation on the Malta + Steamer--Difficulties of exit from the Harbour--Storm--Disagreeable + Motion of the Steam-vessel--Passengers--Arrival at Malta--Description + of the City--Vehicles--Dress of the Maltese Women--State of + Society--Church of St. John--The Palace--The Cemetery of the Capuchin + Convent--Intolerance of the Roman Catholic Priesthood--Shops, + Cafés, and Hotels--Manufactures and Products of Malta--Heat of + the Island--Embarkation on board an English Government + Steamer--Passengers--A young Egyptian--Arrival at Alexandria--Turkish + and Egyptian Fleets--Aspect of the City from the Sea--Landing + + * * * * * + +CHAPTER IV. + +ALEXANDRIA TO BOULAK. + + Description of Alexandria--Hotels--Houses--Streets--Frank + Shops--Cafés--Equipages--Arrangements for the Journey to + Suez--Pompey's Pillar--Turkish and Arab Burial-grounds--Preparations + for the Journey to Cairo--Embarkation on the Canal--Bad accommodation + in the Boat--Banks of the Canal--Varieties of Costume in + Egypt--Collision during the night--Atfee--Its wretched appearance--The + Pasha--Exchange of Boats--Disappointment at the Nile--Scarcity of + Trees--Manners of the Boatmen--Aspect of the Villages--The Marquess + of Waterford--The Mughreebee Magician--First sight of the + Pyramids--Arrival at Boulak, the Port of Cairo + + * * * * * + +CHAPTER V. + +CAIRO. + + Arrival at Boulak--Description of the place--Moolid, or Religious + Fair--Surprise of the People--The Hotel at Cairo--Description of + the City--The Citadel--View from thence--The City--The + Shops--The Streets--The interior of the Pasha's + Palace--Pictures--Furniture--Military Band--Affray between a Man and + Woman--Indifference of the Police to Street Broils--Natives beaten + by Englishmen--Visit to an English Antiquary--By-ways of + the City--Interior of the Houses--Nubian + Slave-market--Gypsies--Preparation for Departure to Suez--Mode of + driving in the Streets of Cairo--Leave the City--The Changes in + travelling in Egypt--Attractions of Cairo + + * * * * * + +CHAPTER VI. + +THE DESERT. + + Equipage for crossing the Desert--Donkey-chairs--Sense of calmness and + tranquillity on entering the Desert--Nothing dismal in its + aspect--The Travellers' Bungalow--Inconvenient construction of these + buildings--Kafila of the Governor of Jiddah and his Lady--Their + Equipage--Bedouins--Impositions practised on Travellers--Desert + Travelling not disagreeable--Report of the sailing of the + Steamer--Frequency of false reports--Ease with which an infant of + the party bore the journey--A wheeled carriage crossing the + Desert--Parties of Passengers from Suez encountered--One of Mr. Hill's + tilted Caravans--Difficulty of procuring water at the Travellers' + Bungalow--A night in the Desert--Magnificent sunrise--First sight + of the Red Sea and the Town of Suez--Miserable appearance of the + latter--Engagement of a Passage to Bombay + + * * * * * + +CHAPTER VII. + +SUEZ TO ADEN. + + Travellers assembling at Suez--Remarks on the Pasha's + Government--Embarkation on the Steamer--Miserable accommodation in the + _Berenice_, and awkwardness of the attendants--Government Ships not + adapted to carry Passengers--Cause of the miserable state of the Red + Sea Steamers--Shores of the Red Sea--Arrival at Mocha--Its appearance + from the Sea--Arrival at Aden--Its wild and rocky appearance on + landing--Cape Aden--The Town--Singular appearance of the Houses--The + Garrison expecting an attack by the Arabs--Discontent of the + Servants of Europeans at Aden--Complaints by Anglo-Indians against + Servants--Causes--Little to interest Europeans in Aden + + * * * * * + +CHAPTER VIII. + +ADEN. + + Commanding situation of Aden--Its importance in former times--But few + remains of its grandeur--Its facilities as a retreat for the piratical + hordes of the Desert--The loss of its trade followed by reduction + of the population--Speculations as to the probability of ultimately + resisting the Arabs--Exaggerated notions entertained by the Shiekhs of + the wealth of the British--Aden a free Port would be the Queen of the + adjacent Seas--Its advantages over Mocha--The Inhabitants of Aden--The + Jews--The Banians--The Soomalees--The Arabs--Hopes of the prosperity + of Aden--Goods in request there--Exports--Re-embarkation on the + Steamer--Want of attention--Makallah--Description of the place--Its + products--The Gazelle--Traveller in Abyssinia--Adventurous English + Travellers--Attractions of the Arab life--Arrival at Bombay + + * * * * * + +CHAPTER IX. + +BOMBAY. + + Contrast between landing at Bombay and at Calcutta--First feelings + those of disappointment--Aspect of the place improves--Scenery of the + Island magnificent, abounding with fine Landscapes--Luxuriance and + elegance of the Palms--Profusion and contrast of the Trees--Multitude + of large Houses in Gardens--Squalid, dirty appearance of the + Native Crowd--Costume of the Natives--Inferior to the Costume of + Bengal--Countenances not so handsome--The Drive to the Fort--The + Burrah Bazaar--Parsee Houses--"God-shops" of the Jains--General use + of Chairs amongst the Natives--Interior of the Native Houses--The + Sailors' Home--The Native Town--Improvements--The Streets animated + and picturesque--Number of Vehicles--The Native Females--The Parsee + Women--The Esplanade--Tents and Bungalows--The Fort--The China + Bazaar--A Native School--Visit to a Parsee Warehouse--Real ornamental + China-ware--Apprehension of Fire in the Fort--Houses fired by + Rats--Illumination of Native Houses--Discordant noise of Native + Magic--The great variety of Religions in Bombay productive of + lamp-lighting and drumming + + * * * * * + +CHAPTER X. + +BOMBAY--(_Continued_). + + Bombay the rising Presidency--Probability of its becoming the Seat of + Government--The Anglo-Indian Society of Bombay--Style of Living--The + Gardens inferior to those of Bengal--Interiors of the Houses more + embellished--Absence of Glass-windows an evil--The Bungalows--The + Encamping-ground--Facility and despatch of a change of + residence--Visit to a tent entertainment--Inconveniences attending a + residence in tents--Want of Hotels and Boarding-houses--Deficiency of + public Amusements in Bombay--Lectures and _Conversaziones_ suggested, + as means of bringing the native community into more frequent + intercourse with Europeans--English spoken by the superior classes + of Natives--Natives form a very large portion of the wealth and + intelligence of Bombay--Nothing approaching the idea of a City to be + seen--The climate more salubrious than that of Bengal--Wind blows hot + and cold at the same time--Convenience a stranger finds in so many + domestic servants speaking English--Their peculiar mode of speaking + it--Dress of servants--Their wages--The Cooks--Improved by Lord + Clare--Appointments of the tables--The Ramoosee Watchmen--Their + vociferations during the night--Fidelity of the Natives--Controversy + concerning their disregard of truth. + + * * * * * + +CHAPTER XI. + +BOMBAY--(_Continued_). + + Residences for the Governor--Parell--Its Gardens--Profusion of + Roses--Receptions at Government-house--The evening-parties--The + grounds and gardens of Parell inferior to those at Barrackpore--The + Duke of Wellington partial to Parell--Anecdotes of his Grace + in India--Sir James Mackintosh--His forgetfulness of India--The + Horticultural Society--Malabar Point, a retreat in the hot + weather--The Sea-view beautiful--The nuisance of fish--Serious effects + at Bombay of the stoppage of the trade with China--Ill-condition + of the poorer classes of Natives--Frequency of Fires--Houses of the + Parsees--Parsee Women--Masculine air of the other Native Females + of the lower orders who appear in + public--Bangle-shops--Liqueur-shops--Drunkenness amongst Natives + not uncommon here, from the temptations held out--The Sailors' + Home--Arabs, Greeks, Chinamen--The latter few and shabby--Portuguese + Padres--Superiority of the Native Town of Bombay over that of + Calcutta--Statue of Lord Cornwallis--Bullock-carriages--High price and + inferiority of horses in Bombay--Hay-stacks--Novel mode of stacking + + * * * * * + +CHAPTER XII. + +BOMBAY--(_Continued_). + + The Climate of Bombay treacherous in the cold season--The land-wind + injurious to health--The Air freely admitted into Rooms--The + Climate of the Red Sea not injurious to Silk dresses--Advice to + lady-passengers on the subject of dress--The Shops of Bombay badly + provided--Speculations on the site of the City, should the seat of + Government be removed hither--The Esplanade--Exercise of Sailors + on Shore and on Ship-board--Mock-fight--Departure of Sir Henry + Fane--Visit to a fair in Mahim Wood--Prophecy--Shrine of Mugdooree + Sahib--Description of the Fair--Visit to the mansion of a + Moonshee--His Family--Crowds of Vehicles returning from the + Fair--Tanks--Festival of the _Duwallee_--Visit to a Parsee--Singular + ceremony--The Women of India impede the advance of improvement--They + oppose every departure from established rules--Effect of Education in + Bombay yet superficial--Cause of the backwardness of Native Education + + + + +MEMOIR. + + * * * * * + +Experience has, especially of late years, amply refuted the barbarous +error, which attributes to Nature a niggardliness towards the minds +of that sex to which she has been most prodigal of personal gifts; +the highest walks of science and literature in this country have been +graced by female authors, and, perhaps, the purity and refinement +which pervade our works of imagination, compared with those of former +days, may not unjustly be traced to the larger share which feminine +pens now have in the production of these works. It would appear to +countenance the heretical notion just condemned, to assume that +a robust organization is essential to the proper development and +exercise of the powers of the understanding; but it is certain +that, in several instances, individuals, who have exhibited the most +striking examples of female pre-eminence, have not reached the full +maturity of their intellectual growth, but have been lost to the world +in a premature grave: to the names of Felicia Hemans and Laetitia +E. Landon, besides others, is now added that of Emma Roberts, who, +although in respect of poetical genius she cannot be placed upon +a level with the two writers just named, yet in the vigour of her +faculties, and in the variety of her talents, is worthy of being +associated with them as another evidence against the asserted mental +inequality of the sexes. + +Miss Roberts belonged to a Welsh family of great respectability. Her +grandfather, who was a gentleman of good property, and served the +office of High Sheriff for Denbighshire, North Wales, possessed the +fine estate of Kenmell Park in that county, which was disposed of +after his death to Colonel Hughes, the present Lord Dinorben, whose +seat it continues to be. He had three sons, all of whom entered a +military life, which seems to have had peculiar attractions to this +gallant family. The eldest, the late General Thomas Roberts, raised +a regiment, which became the 111th, and it is said he frequently +officiated as Gold Stick in Waiting to George the Third. A son of +General Roberts was aide-de-camp to Sir Arthur Wellesley in Portugal, +was taken prisoner by the French, and detained during the war: he +afterwards rose to the rank of lieutenant-colonel. The second son, +Colonel David Roberts, of the 51st regiment, distinguished himself in +the Peninsular war, having, on the 7th January, 1809, during Sir +John Moore's retreat, near the heights of Lugo, headed a party which +repulsed the French Light Brigade, on which occasion his cloak was +riddled with bullets, two of which passed through his right-hand, +which was amputated. He was then a major, but afterwards commanded the +regiment, in Lord Dalhousie's brigade, and subsequently in Flanders, +and was so seriously and repeatedly wounded, that his pensions for +wounds amounted to £500 a year. Colonel Roberts was an author, and +wrote, amongst other things, the comic military sketch called _Johnny +Newcome_. The youngest son, William (the father of Miss Roberts), in +the course of his travels on the continent, in early life, formed some +intimacies at the Court of St. Petersburgh (to which he was introduced +by the British Ambassador), and eventually entered the Russian +service; he was made aide-de-camp to General Lloyd, his countryman, +and served with great distinction in several campaigns against the +Turks. He afterwards entered the British army, but had not attained +a higher rank than that of captain (with the paymastership of his +regiment), when he died, leaving a widow, a son (who died a lieutenant +in the army), and two daughters. + +Emma, the youngest daughter of Captain Roberts, was born about the +year 1794. After the death of her father, she resided with her mother, +a lady of some literary pretensions, at Bath. Though possessed of a +very attractive person, though of a lively disposition, and peculiarly +fitted to shine in the gayest circles of social life, her thirst for +letters was unquenchable, and the extent of her reading proves that +her early years must have been years of application. + +Her first literary work was in the grave department of +history,--_Memoirs of the Rival Houses of York and Lancaster, or the +White and Red Roses,_ which was published in two volumes, 1827. In the +preparation of this work, Miss Roberts prosecuted her researches +into the historical records at the Museum with so much diligence +and perseverance, as to attract the notice of the officers of that +institution, who rendered her much assistance. This work did not +take hold of public attention; the narrative is perspicuously and +pleasingly written, but it throws no additional light upon the events +of the time. It is not unusual for young writers, in their first +essay, to mistake the bent of their powers. + +On the death of her mother and the marriage of her sister to an +officer of the Bengal army (Captain R.A. M'Naghten), Miss Roberts +accompanied Mrs. M'Naghten and her husband to India, in February 1828, +taking her passage in the _Sir David Scott_, to Bengal. From Calcutta +she proceeded with them to the Upper Provinces, where she spent the +years 1829 and 1830, between the stations of Agra, Cawnpore, and +Etawah. Her active and inquisitive mind was constantly employed in +noting the new and extraordinary scenes around her, the physical +aspect of the country, the peculiar traits of its population, and the +manners of both natives and Anglo-Indians: the strong and faithful +impressions they made never faded from a memory remarkably retentive. +It is to these favourable opportunities of diversified observation, in +her journeys by land and water, along the majestic Ganges, or by the +dawk conveyance in a palanquin, and in her residence for so long a +period away from the metropolis of British India, which exhibits but +a mongrel kind of Eastern society, that the English public owe +those admirable pictures of Indian scenery and manners, which have +conquered, or contributed to conquer, its habitual distaste for such +topics. + +Whilst at Cawnpore, Miss Roberts committed to the press a little +volume of poetry, entitled _Oriental Scenes_, which she dedicated to +her friend Miss Landon, then rising into eminence under the well-known +designation of L.E.L. This volume, which she republished in England, +in 1832, contains some very pleasing specimens of glowing description, +graceful imagery, and well-turned expression, which show that her +powers required only cultivation to have secured to her a respectable +rank among modern poets. + +Mrs. M'Naghten died in 1831, and about this time (either soon after +or shortly before the death of her sister), she exchanged provincial +scenes and society for the more cheerful atmosphere of Calcutta, where +a new world of observation and of employment opened to her. The sketches +she has given of the City of Palaces, and of its inhabitants, prove how +accurately she had seized their characteristic features. Here her pen +was called into incessant activity; besides various contributions +to Annuals and other ephemeral works, Miss Roberts undertook the +formidable task (doubly formidable in such a climate) of editing a +newspaper, and the _Oriental Observer_, whilst under her direction, +was enriched by some valuable articles written by herself, indicating +the versatility of her talents, the extent of her resources, and the +large area of knowledge over which her active mind had ranged. + +This severe over-employment, however, entailed the inevitable penalty, +loss of health, and in 1832, being now bound by no powerful tie to +India, and looking forward, perhaps, with innocent ambition, to a less +confined theatre for the display of her talents and acquisitions, she +quitted the country, and returned to England, the voyage completely +repairing the injury which the climate of India had wrought upon her +constitution. The reputation she had acquired preceded her to this +country, where she had many literary acquaintances, some of whom had +reached a high station in public esteem; and her entrance into the +best literary circles of the metropolis was thereby facilitated; +but the position which she was entitled to claim was spontaneously +conceded to talents such as hers, set off by engaging and unaffected +manners, warmth and benevolence of heart, equanimity and serenity of +temper. + +The fruits of her observations in the East were given to the world +in several series of admirable papers, published in the _Asiatic +Journal_,[A] a periodical work to which she contributed with +indefatigable zeal and success, from shortly after her return to +England until her death. A selection of those papers was published, in +three volumes, in 1835, under the title of _Scenes and Characteristics +of Hindostan_, which has had a large circulation, and (a very unusual +circumstance attending works on Indian subjects) soon reached a second +edition. This work established Miss Roberts's reputation as a writer +of unrivalled excellence in this province, which demands a union of +quick and acute discernment with the faculty of vivid and graphic +delineation. Of the many attempts which have been made in this country +to furnish popular draughts of Indian "Scenes and Characteristics," +that of Miss Roberts is the only one which has perfectly succeeded. + +Her pen now came into extensive requisition, and the miscellaneous +information with which she had stored her mind enabled her, with +the aid of great fluency of composition and unremitted industry, to +perform a quantity and a variety of literary labour, astonishing to +her friends, when they considered that Miss Roberts did not seclude +herself from society, but mixed in parties, where her conversational +talents rendered her highly acceptable, and carried on, besides, a +very extensive correspondence. History, biography, poetry, tales, +local descriptions, foreign correspondence, didactic essays, even the +culinary art, by turns employed her versatile powers. Most of these +compositions were occasional pieces, furnished to periodical works; +to some she attached her name, and a few were separately published. +Amongst the latter is a very pleasing biographical sketch of Mrs. +Maclean (formerly Miss Landon), one of her oldest and dearest friends. + +It was now seven years since she had quitted British India, during +which period important events had occurred, which wrought material +changes in its political and social aspects. The extinction of the +East-India Company's commercial privileges had imparted a new tone to +its government, given a freer scope to the principle of innovation, +and poured a fresh European infusion into its Anglo-Indian society; +steam navigation and an overland communication between England and her +Eastern empire were bringing into operation new elements of +mutation, and the domestic historian of India (as Miss Roberts may be +appropriately termed) felt a natural curiosity to observe the progress +of these changes, and to compare the British India of 1830 with that +of 1840. With a view of enlarging the sphere of her knowledge of +the country, and of deriving every practicable advantage from a +twelve-months' visit, she determined to examine India on its Western +side, and (contrary to the urgent advice of many of her friends) +to encounter the inconveniences of performing the journey overland, +through France and Egypt. Previous to her departure, she entered into +an arrangement with the _Asiatic Journal_ (the depository of most of +her papers on Indian subjects) to transmit, on her way, a series of +papers for publication in that work, descriptive of the objects +and incidents met with in the overland route, and of the "rising +presidency," as she termed Bombay. By a singular coincidence, the last +paper of this series was published in the very number of the _Asiatic +Journal_[B] which announced her death. These papers, which are now +before the reader, carry on the biography of Miss Roberts almost to +the end of her life. + +She quitted England in September, 1839, and, having suffered few +annoyances on the journey, except a fever which attacked her in the +Gulf, arrived in Bombay in November, where she experienced the most +cordial reception from all classes, including the Governor and the +most respectable of the native community. Miss Roberts was known to +Sir James Carnac, and in his Excellency's family she became a guest +for some time, quitting his hospitable mansion only to meet with a +similar cordiality of welcome from other friends, at the presidency +and in the interior. Her residence at Parell has enabled her to draw, +with her accustomed felicity, in one of the papers published in this +volume, a lively sketch of the domestic scenes and public receptions, +as well as the local scenery, at this delightful place. It appears +from her letters that Miss Roberts meditated a tour into Cutch or +Guzerat, which probably was prevented by her subsequent illness. "It +is my intention," she wrote from Parell, December 30th, 1839, "to go +into the provinces, as I have received numerous invitations; I am at +present divided between Guzerat and Cutch: by going to the latter, I +might have an opportunity of seeing Scinde, the new Resident, Captain +Outram, being anxious that I should visit it." She adds: "I have +received much attention from the native gentlemen belonging to this +presidency, and have, indeed, every reason to be pleased with my +reception." She had projected a statistical work on this part of +India, and in her private letters she speaks with grateful enthusiasm +of the liberality with which the government records were opened to +her, and of the alacrity with which Europeans and natives forwarded +her views and inquiries. In a letter dated in February, 1840, she +says: "I am very diligently employed in collecting materials for my +work; I am pleased with the result of my labours, and think I shall be +able to put a very valuable book upon Bombay before the public. I +hope to go in a short time to Mahableshwar, and thence to Sattara, +Beejapore, &c." Her literary aid was invoked by the conductors of +periodical works at Bombay, to which she furnished some amusing +pictures of home-scenes, drawn with the same spirit and truth as her +Indian sketches. She likewise undertook the editorship of a new weekly +paper, the _Bombay United Service Gazette_, and with the benevolence +which formed so bright a feature in her character, she engaged +with zeal in a scheme for rescuing the native women, who (as her +observation led her to believe) impede the progress of improvement, +from the indolence in which they are educated, by devising employments +for them suited to their taste and capacity. The concluding chapter +of this volume contains some very sound and salutary reflections upon +native education. + +Perhaps too close and unremitting application, in a climate which +demands moderation in all pursuits that tax the powers of either mind +or body, produced or aggravated a disease of the stomach, with which +this lady was seriously attacked when on a visit to Colonel Ovans, the +Resident at Sattara. Some indication of disordered health manifested +itself whilst she was in the Hills. Writing from thence in April, and +adverting to some incident which caused her vexation, she observed: +"My health is failing me, and I can scarcely bear any increased +subject of anxiety." She experienced in the family of Colonel Ovans +all the attention and sympathy which the kindest hospitality could +suggest; but her disorder increasing, she removed, in the hope of +alleviating it by change of air, to Poona, and arrived at the house of +her friend, Colonel Campbell, in that city, on the 16th of September. +She expired unexpectedly on the following morning. Her remains are +deposited near those of one of her own sex, who was also distinguished +for her literary talents, Miss Jewsbury. + +The death of Miss Roberts excited universal sorrow amongst all +classes, European and native, at Bombay, as well as at the other +presidencies, especially Calcutta, where the most cordial and +flattering tributes to her memory appeared in the public journals. She +had nearly completed her inquiries, and accomplished all the objects +for which she had revisited the treacherous clime of India, and one of +her latest letters to the writer of this Memoir expressed a cheerful +anticipation of her speedy return to England! "I positively leave +India next October, and am now looking joyfully to my return." + +The person and manners of Miss Roberts were extremely prepossessing. +In early life, she was handsome; and although latterly her figure +had attained some degree of fulness, it had lost none of its ease and +grace, whilst her pleasing features, marked by no lines of painful +thought, were open and expressive, beaming with animation and good +humour. She had not the slightest tinge of pedantry in her manner and +deportment, which were natural and affable, so that a stranger never +felt otherwise than at ease in her society. It was not her ambition +to make a display of mental superiority, which inspires the other sex +with any feelings but those of admiration--which is, indeed, tacitly +resented as a species of tyranny, and frequently assigned as the +ground of a certain prejudice against literary ladies. "It may safely +he said," observes a friend of her's at Calcutta, "that, although +devoted to literature as Miss Roberts was, yet in her conversation and +demeanour she evinced less of what is known as '_blue_' than any +of her contemporaries, excepting Miss Landon." Another Calcutta +acquaintance says: "Though her mind was deeply interested in subjects +connected with literature, her attention was by no means absorbed by +them, and she mixed cordially and freely in society without the least +disposition to despise persons of less intellectual elevation. She +had a true relish of all the little pleasures that promiscuous society +affords, and did not underrate those talents which are better fitted +for the drawing-room than the study." Her warmth of heart and kindness +of disposition, which co-operated with her good sense in thus removing +all disagreeable points from her external character, made her the +sincerest of friends, and ever ready to engage in any work of charity +or benevolence. + +It would be affectation to attempt in this slight Memoir to elaborate +a picture of the intellectual character of Miss Roberts, cut off, +as she has been, before that character had been fully developed. The +works, upon which her reputation as a writer principally rests, are +not, perhaps, of a quality which calls for any commanding powers +of mind. Her business was with the surfaces of things; her skill +consisted in a species of photography, presenting perfect fac-similes +of objects, animate and inanimate, in their natural forms and hues. +Deep investigations, profound reflections, and laboured and learned +disquisitions, would have defeated the very object of her lively +sketches, which was to make them, not only faithful and exact, but +popular. Of her success in this design, the following testimony from a +competent authority, the _Calcutta Literary Gazette_, is distinct +and decisive; and with this extract we may fitly close our melancholy +office: "Nothing can be more minute and faithful than her pictures of +external life and manners. She does not, indeed, go much beneath the +surface, nor does she take profound or general views of human nature; +but we can mention no traveller, who has thrown upon the printed page +such true and vivid representations of all that strikes the eye of +a stranger. Her book, entitled _Scenes and Characteristics of +Hindostan_, is the best of its kind. Other travellers have excelled +her in depth and sagacity of remark, in extent of information, and in +mere force or elegance of style; but there is a vivacity, a delicacy, +and a truth in her light sketches of all that lay immediately before +her, that have never been surpassed in any book of travels that is +at this moment present to our memory. She had a peculiar readiness in +receiving, and a singular power of retaining, first impressions of the +most minute and evanescent nature. She walked through a street or a +bazaar, and every thing that passed over the mirror of her mind left +a clear and lasting trace. She was thus enabled, even years after a +visit to a place of interest, to describe every thing with the same +freshness and fidelity as if she had taken notes upon the spot. +They who have gone over the same ground are delighted to find in +the perusal of her pages their own vague and half-faded impressions +revived and defined by her magic glass, while the novelty and +vividness of her foreign pictures make her home-readers feel that they +are nearly as much entitled to be called travellers as the fair author +herself." + + +[Footnote A: The first appeared in the Journal for December, 1832.] + +[Footnote B: For December, 1840.] + + + + +CHAPTER I. + + * * * * * + +LONDON TO PARIS. + + * * * * * + + Departure from London--A French Steam-vessel--Unfavourable + Weather--Arrival at Havre--Difficulties at the + Custom-house--Description of Havre--Embarkation on the Steamer for + Rouen--Appearance of the Country--Inclemency of the Weather--Arrival + at Rouen--Description of Rouen--Departure by the Boat for + Paris--Scenes and Traditions on the Banks of the Seine--Journey by the + Railroad to Paris--The _Douaniers_--Observations on the Journey up the + Seine. + + +A strong predilection in favour of river scenery induced me, at the +commencement of an overland journey to Bombay, through France and +Egypt, to take a passage from London in a steamer bound to Havre. +Accordingly, on the 1st of September, 1839, accompanied by some +friends, one of whom was to perform the whole journey with me, I +embarked on board the _Phénix_, a French vessel, which left the Tower +Stairs at about ten o'clock in the morning. + +The weather was showery, but occasional gleams of sunshine encouraged +us to hope that it might clear up, and permit us to keep the deck +during the greater part of the voyage, which we expected to perform in +eighteen hours. To the majority of readers, in these days of universal +travelling, it will be superfluous to describe a steam-boat; but there +may possibly be some quiet people who are still ignorant of the sort +of accommodation which it affords, and to whom the description will +not be unacceptable. + +The _Phénix_ is a fine vessel of its class, five hundred tons burthen, +and 160-horse power. It was handsomely fitted up, and the vases of +flowers upon the chimney-piece in the principal saloon, and other +ornaments scattered about, gave to the whole a gay appearance, as if +the party assembled had been wholly bent upon pleasure. The ladies' +cabin was divided by a staircase; but there were what, in a sort of +mockery, are called "state-cabins" opening into that appropriated to +the general use, around which were sofas, and bed-places upon a sort +of shelf above, for the accommodation of the gentlemen. This apartment +was handsomely carpeted, and otherwise well furnished; the steward +and his assistant having the appearance of the better class of waiters +belonging to a well-frequented hotel: all the servants were English, +and the whole afforded a most delightful contrast to the sort of +packets which many of the party on board were quite old enough to +remember. + +The passengers were numerous, and apparently inclined to make +themselves agreeable to each other; one, an American, objected to the +sight of a footman, who came upon the quarter-deck for a few minutes, +observing that such a thing would not be permitted in his country. + +As soon as the vessel got under weigh, preparations were made for +breakfast, which was served, _à la fourchette_, in very excellent +style, the cookery being a happy combination of the French and English +modes. At the conclusion of the repast, we repaired to the deck, all +being anxious to see the _British Queen_, which was getting her steam +up, at Gravesend. We were alongside this superb vessel for a few +minutes, putting some persons on board who had come down the river +in the _Phénix_ for the purpose of paying it a visit; and taking +advantage of a favourable breeze, we hoisted a sail, and went along at +a rate which gave us hope of a speedy arrival at Havre. + +After passing the Nore, however, our progress was impeded; and at +length, when off Margate, we were obliged to lie-to, in order to wait +for the turn of the tide: the wind blowing so strongly as to render +it questionable whether we could get round the Foreland. The sun +was shining on the buildings at Margate, and the bells knolling for +evening service; affording a home-scene of comfort and tranquillity +which it was agreeable to carry abroad as one of the last +reminiscences of England. + +In about three hours, we got the steam up again, and saw the +_British Queen_ in the distance, still lying to, and apparently, +notwithstanding her prodigious power, unable to get down the Channel. + +Dinner was served while the _Phénix_ lay off Margate; but it was +thinly attended, the motion of the vessel having sent many persons to +their cabins, while others were totally deprived of all appetite. An +elderly gentleman, who sate upon my left hand, complained exceedingly +of his inability to partake of the good things before him; and one or +two left the table in despair. Again we sought the deck, and saw the +sun sink behind an ominous mass of clouds; the sky, however, cleared, +and the stars came out, reviving our spirits with hopes of a fine +night. Unfortunately, soon after nine o'clock, a heavy squall +obliged us to go below, and one of my female friends and myself took +possession of a state cabin, and prepared to seek repose. + +It was my first voyage on board a steamer, and though the tremulous +motion and the stamping of the engine are anything but agreeable, I +prefer it to the violent rolling and pitching of a sailing vessel. We +were certainly not nearly so much knocked about; the vases of flowers +were taken off the mantel-piece, and placed upon the floor, but beyond +this there were no precautions taken to prevent the movables from +getting adrift; every thing remained quiet upon the tables, a +circumstance which could not have happened in so heavy a sea in any +vessel not steadied by the apparatus carried by a steamer. + +The _Phénix_ laboured heavily through the water; a torrent of rain +soon cleared the deck of all the passengers, and the melancholy voices +calling for the steward showed the miserable plight to which the male +portion of the party was reduced. Daylight appeared without giving +hope of better weather; and it was not until the vessel had reached +the pier at Havre, which it did not make until after three o'clock +P.M. on Monday, that the passengers were able to re-assemble. Many +had not tasted food since their embarkation, and none had been able to +take breakfast on the morning of their arrival. + +And here, for the benefit of future travellers, it may not be amiss +to say, that a small medicine-chest, which had been packed in a +carpet-bag, was detained at the custom-house; and that the following +day we experienced some difficulty in getting it passed, being told +that it was contraband; indeed, but for an idea that the whole party +were going on to Bombay, and would require the drugs for their own +consumption, we should not have succeeded in rescuing it from the +hands of the Philistines. The day was too far advanced to admit of +our getting the remainder of the baggage examined, a mischance which +detained us a day at Havre, the steamer to Rouen starting at four +o'clock in the morning. + +The weather was too unpropitious to admit of our seeing much of the +environs of the town. Like all English travellers, we walked about as +much as we could, peeped into the churches, made purchases of things +we wanted and things we did not want, and got some of our gold +converted into French money. We met and greeted several of our +fellow-passengers, for though little conversation, in consequence of +the inclemency of the weather, had taken place on board the _Phénix_, +we all seemed to congratulate each other upon our escape from the +horrors of the voyage. + +The gale increased rather than abated, and we now began to entertain +fears of another day's detention at Havre, the steamer from Rouen not +having arrived; and though we were very comfortably lodged, and found +the town superior to the expectations we had formed of a sea-port of +no very great consideration, we had no desire to spend more time in it +than we could help. + +Havre appears to carry on a considerable commerce with India, several +shops being wholly devoted to the sale of the productions of the +East, while the number of parrots and monkeys to be seen show that the +intercourse must be very extensive. The shops had a very English +air about them, and though the houses were taller, and rather more +dilapidated in their appearance, than they are usually found at home, +they reminded us of familiar scenes. _Hamlet_ was announced for the +evening's performance at the theatre, and but for the novelty of +dining at a _table d'hôte_, we might have fancied ourselves still in +England. + +The Hotel de l'Europe is the best in Havre; there are several others +very respectable, and more picturesque, from the ancient style of the +building: all were full, intercourse with Havre being on the +increase. English carriages were arriving every hour; the steamer from +Southampton brought an immense number of passengers, and travellers +seemed to flock in from every part of the world. We were amused by +seeing a well-dressed and well-mannered Russian lady, at the _table +d'hôte_, fill her plate half-full of oil, and just dip the salad into +it. + +It was the first time that one of my friends and myself had ever +visited France, and we endeavoured as much as possible to accommodate +ourselves to the manners of a strange country. We could not, however, +entirely give up our English habits, and ordered tea in the evening in +our private apartments: the French are by this time well accustomed to +requisitions of this nature, and few places are now unsupplied with a +tea-pot. + +On Tuesday morning, we were up at four o'clock, in order to embark +on board the steamer for Rouen. It rained heavily, and any hopes, the +interposition of the high houses gave, that the wind had abated, were +destroyed upon turning the first angle, and after a hasty glance at +the threatening sky and surging waters, we went below, intending, if +possible, to remain there until the weather should clear. + +Passengers now came flocking in; many respectable French families, +with their children and neatly dressed _bonnes_, were of the party; +but the young folk speedily becoming very sick, we sought the deck, +and in spite of the rain, which still continued to fall, established +ourselves as well as we were able. + +Upon entering the river, the turbulence of the water subsided a +little, and a gleam of sunshine, the first that smiled upon us, shewed +a chateau and town nestling in the midst of gardens and orchards, +and spreading down to the water's edge. The banks on either side were +picturesque, presenting the most pleasing pictures of rural enjoyment, +and conveying an idea of comfort which we had not previously +associated with the smaller classes of country residences in France. +The houses were cleanly on the outside, at least, and neither paint +nor white-wash was spared in their decoration; the surrounding +parterres were gay with flowers, amid which, as with us, dahlias made +a very conspicuous appearance. They were not, we thought, quite so +large and luxuriant as those which we see in our cottage-gardens at +home; and this remark we found afterwards would apply to the more +carefully tended plants in the pleasure-grounds of palaces. We +are probably more skilful in the adaptation of soil to foreign +importations, and therefore succeed in producing a finer flower. + +In my baggage I had brought a large basket-full of the roots of our +English hearts-ease, as a present to a French gentleman, who had +expressed a wish, in the early part of the summer, to take some with +him from London, he having been much delighted with the superior +beauty of those which he had seen in our English gardens; they were +not then in a fit state for transplanting, and having, through the +kindness of the secretary of the Royal Botanic Society, been enabled +to carry away an extensive and choice collection of roots, I indulge +a hope that I may be instrumental in spreading the finest varieties of +this pretty flower throughout France. + +We lost, of course, many scenes of beauty and interest, in consequence +of the inclemency of the weather. Just as we arrived at a most +beautiful place, a church of elegant architecture rising in the +centre, with gay-looking villas clustered round, the gathering clouds +united over our devoted heads, the rain, descending in a cataract, +beat down the smoke to the very decks, so that we all looked and felt +as if we had been up the chimney, and the whole lovely scene was lost +to us in a moment. The rain continued for about an hour after this, +and then the sky began to clear. + +We reached Rouen at about half-past twelve. The approach is very fine, +and the city makes an imposing appearance from the river. We had been +recommended to the Hotel d'Angleterre, which is the best, but were so +strongly tempted to rush into the hotel immediately opposite, that, +trusting to its exterior, we hastened to house ourselves, and found +no reason to repent our choice. We were shown into very handsome +apartments, and found the staircases, lobbies, and ante-chambers as +clean as we could desire. A change of attire and breakfast enabled us +to sally forth to see as much of the town and its neighbourhood as our +time would admit. + +The modern portion of Rouen is extremely handsome; the quay being +lined with a series of lofty stone mansions, built in the style which +is now beginning to be adopted in London. The public buildings are +particularly fine, and there are two splendid bridges, one of stone, +and one upon the suspension principle. Very extensive improvements are +going on, and it seems as if, in the course of a very few years, +the worst portions of the town will be replaced by new and elegant +erections. Meantime, imagination can scarcely afford more than a faint +idea of the horrors of the narrow, dirty streets, flanked on either +side by lofty squalid houses, in the very last stage of dilapidation. + +The cathedral stands in a small square, or market-place, where the +houses, though somewhat better than their neighbours in the lanes, +have a very miserable appearance; they make a striking picture, but +the reality sadly detracts from the pleasure which the eye would +otherwise take in surveying the fine old church, with which, through +the medium of engravings, it has been long familiar. Many workmen are +at present employed in repairing the damage which time has inflicted +upon this ancient edifice. + +The interior, though striking from its vastness, is at first rather +disappointing, its splendid windows of stained glass being the most +prominent of its ornaments. In pacing the long aisles, and pausing +before the small chapels, the scene grows upon the mind, and the +monuments, though comparatively few, are very interesting. An effigy +of Richard Coeur de Lion, lately discovered while looking for the +fiery monarch's heart, which was buried in Rouen, is shown as one of +the chief curiosities of the place. + +The porter of the cathedral inhabited an extremely small dwelling, +built up against the wall, and surrounded by high, dark buildings; but +we were pleased to see that he had cheered this dismal place of abode +by a gay parterre, several rich-looking flowers occupying pots beneath +his windows. + +Our next pilgrimage was to the statue of Joan of Arc, which we +approached through narrow streets, so dirty from the late heavy rains, +as to be scarcely passable. We had, as we might have expected, little +to reward us, except the associations connected with the Maid of +Orleans, and her cruel persecutors. The spot had been to me, from my +earliest years, one which I had felt a wish to visit, my researches, +while writing the Memoirs of the Rival Houses of York and Lancaster, +materially increasing the interest which an earlier perusal of the +history of England and France had created, concerning scenes trodden +by the brave, the great, and the good. However mistaken might have +been their notions, however impolitic their actions, we cannot +contemplate the characters of the Paladins, who have made Rouen +famous, without feelings of respect. The murder of Joan of Arc formed +the sole blot on the escutcheon of John Duke of Bedford, and the +faults and vices of his companions in arms were the offspring of the +times in which they lived. + +We were surprised by the excellence of the shops, even in the most +dilapidated parts of the city of Rouen, the windows in every direction +exhibiting a gay assemblage of goods of all descriptions, while the +confectioners were little, if at all, inferior to those of Paris. +One small square in particular, in which a market was held, was very +striking, from the contrast between the valuable products sold, and +the houses which contained them. Seven or eight stories in height, +weather-stained, and dilapidated, the lower floors exhibited handsome +porcelain and other costly articles, which gave an impression of +wealth in the owners, that astonished those amongst our party who were +strangers to the country. Our hearts absolutely sunk within us as +we thought of the wretchedness of the interiors, the misery of being +obliged to inhabit any one of the numerous suites of apartments rising +tier above tier, and from which it would be absolutely impossible to +banish vermin of every description. + +The French appear certainly to be beginning to study home comforts, +all the modern houses being built upon very commodious plans; still +the middling classes, in the towns at least, are miserably lodged, +in comparison with the same grades in England, families of apparently +great respectability inhabiting places so desolate as to strike one +with horror. + +After picking our way through the least objectionable of the streets +in the heart of the city, we were glad to escape into the open air, +and solace ourselves with the views presented on the neighbouring +heights. Nothing can be finer than the landscapes round Rouen; every +necessary of life appears to be cheap and plentiful, and persons +desirous of a quiet and economical residence abroad might spend their +time very happily in the outskirts of this picturesque city. + +We found the guests at the _table-d'hôte_ chiefly English, travellers +like ourselves, and some of our party recognised London acquaintance +among those who, upon hearing our intention to proceed the following +day up the Seine to Paris, recommended the boat by which they had +arrived--the _Etoile_. + +Again we were summoned at four o'clock in the morning, and wended our +way, along the banks of the river, to the starting-place, which was +just beyond the second bridge. The one large boat, which conveyed +passengers from Havre, was here exchanged for two smaller, better +suited to the state of the river. We were taught to expect rather a +large party, as we had understood that forty persons were going from +our hotel. + +The bell of the _Dorade_, the opposition vessel, was sounding its +tocsin to summon passengers on board, while ours was altogether mute. +Presently, through the grey mist of the morning, we observed parties +flocking down to the place of embarkation, who, somewhat to our +surprise, all entered the other vessel. A large boat in the centre, in +which the baggage is deposited, was speedily filled, carpet bags being +piled upon carpet bags, until a goodly pyramid arose, which the rising +sun touched with every colour of the prism. The decks of the _Dorade_ +were now crowded with passengers, while two respectable-looking young +women, in addition to ourselves, formed the whole of our company. + +Our bell now gave out a few faint sounds, as if rather in compliance +with the usual forms observed, than from any hope that its warning +voice would be heeded; and getting up our steam, we took the lead +gallantly, as if determined to leave the heavier boat behind. +Presently, however, the _Dorade_ passed us with all her gay company, +and speeding swiftly on her way, would have been out of sight in a few +minutes, but for the windings of the river, which showed us her smoke +like a pennon in the distance. We were now left alone in our glory, +and felt assured of what we had more than suspected before, namely, +that we had got into the wrong boat. We then, though rather too +late, inquired the cause of the extraordinary disproportion of the +passengers, and were told that the _Etoile_ was the favourite boat +going down the river, while the _Dorade_ had it hollow in going up. + +We now began to consider the circumstances of the case, and the +chances of our not arriving time enough at the place of debarkation +to get on to Paris by the rail-road that night. Agreeing that the +detention would not be of the least consequence, that we should enjoy +having the whole boat to ourselves, and the slow method of travelling, +which would enable us the better to contemplate the beauties of the +river, we made up our minds to a day of great enjoyment. The weather +was fine, a cool breeze allaying the heat of the sun, which shone upon +us occasionally through clouds too high to afford any apprehension of +rain. + +The boat was very elegantly fitted up below, the ladies' cabin, in +particular, being splendidly furnished. Above, the choice of seats +proved very acceptable, since, in consequence of a new-fangled +apparatus, we had four chimnies, whence sparks escaped in a constant +shower, threatening destruction to any garment that might be exposed +to them. Seated, therefore, at the prow, beyond the reach of this +fiery shower, after partaking of an excellent breakfast, there being +a first-rate _restaurateur_ on board, we began to converse with a very +intelligent boatman, who amused us with the legends of the river and +accounts of the different places which we passed. + +At Blossville-Bon-Secours there is an extremely steep hill, with a +chapel, dedicated to the Virgin, at the summit; the holy edifice is, +upon ordinary occasions, approached by a circuitous winding road, but +at Easter and other great festivals, thousands of persons flock from +all parts, for the purpose of making a pilgrimage up the steepest +portion of the ascent, in order to fulfil vows previously made, and to +pay their homage to the holy mother of God. There was a waggery in our +friend's eye, as he described the sufferings of the devout upon these +occasions, which indicated an opinion that, however meritorious the +act, and however efficacious in shortening the path to heaven, he +himself entertained no desire to try it. This man had seen something +of the world, his maritime occupation having formerly led him to +distant places; he had been a sailor all his life, was well acquainted +with Marseilles, which he described with great enthusiasm, and gave us +to understand that, having had a good offer elsewhere, this would be +one of his last voyages in the _Etoile_, since he worked hard in it, +without getting any credit. + +At the town of Elboeuf, we picked up another passenger; a country +woman, with a basket or two, and a high Normandy cap, had come on +board at one of the villages; and with this small reinforcement we +proceeded, halting occasionally to mend some damage in the engine, and +putting up a sail whenever we could take advantage of the breeze. + +Arriving at La Roquelle, our _cicerone_ pointed out to us the ruined +walls of what once had been a very splendid chateau; its former owner +being an inveterate gamester, having lost large sums of money, at +length staked the chateau to an Englishman, who won it. Upon arriving +to take possession, he was disappointed to find that he had only +gained the chateau, and that the large estate attached to it was +not in the bond. Being unable to keep it up without the surrounding +property, he determined that no other person should enjoy it, +and therefore, greatly to the annoyance of the people in the +neighbourhood, he pulled it down. The present proprietor now lives in +an adjacent farm-house, and the story, whether true or false, +tells greatly to the prejudice of the English, and our friend, in +particular, spoke of it as a most barbarous act. + +We found the chateaux on the banks of the Seine very numerous; many +were of great magnitude, and flanked by magnificent woods, the greater +number being clipped into the appearance of walls, and cut out into +long avenues and arcades, intersecting each other at right angles, +in the very worst taste, according to the English idea of +landscape-gardening. There was something, however, extremely grand and +imposing in this formal style, and we were at least pleased with the +novelty which it afforded. + +At Andelys, perched upon a conical hill, are the picturesque remains +of the chateau Gaillard, which was built by Richard Coeur de Lion, and +must formerly have been of very great extent, its walls reaching down +to the river's brink. We were told that the chateau furnished stabling +for a thousand horses, and that there was a subterranean passage which +led to the great Andelys. This passage is now undergoing a partial +clearing, for the purpose of increasing the interest of the place, +by exhibiting it to strangers who may visit the neighbourhood. Our +informant proceeded to say, that during several years, an old witch +inhabited the ruins, who was at once the oracle and the terror of the +neighbourhood. + +The sketch-books of the party were here placed in requisition, and +though the celerity with which a steamer strides through the water +is not very favourable to the artist, a better idea of the scene was +given than that which we found in the Guide Book. The banks of the +Seine present a succession of pictures, all well worthy of the pencil, +and those who are fond of the picturesque, and who have time at their +disposal, will find the voyage up the river replete with the most +interesting materials. + +The first sight of the vineyards, which began to spread themselves up +the steep sides of the hills, delighted us all; and our prospects now +began to be diversified with rock, which in a thousand fantastic forms +showed itself along the heights. The country seemed thickly spread +with villages, many at the edge of the water, others receding into +winding valleys, and all boasting some peculiar beauty. Whether upon +a nearer approach they would have been equally pleasing, it is not +possible to say; but, from our position, we saw nothing to offend the +eye, either in the cottages or the people; some of the very +humblest of the dwellings boasted their little gardens, now gay with +sun-flowers and dahlias, while the better sort, with their bright +panes of glass, and clean muslin window-curtains, looked as if they +would afford very desirable homes. + +A present of a bottle of wine made our boatmen very happy. They +produced one of those huge masses of bread, which seems the principal +food of the lower classes, and sate down to their meal with great +content. Our dinner, which we had ordered rather early, was delayed by +the arrival of the boat at Vernon, where we were obliged, according to +the French phrase, to "mount the bridge." It was built, agreeably +to the old mode of construction, with a mill in the centre, and the +difficulty, and even danger, of getting through the arch, could not +be called inconsiderable. Letting off the steam, we were hauled up by +persons stationed for the purpose; and just as we got through, passed +the steamers going down to Rouen, the partners of the vessels which +went up in the morning; both were full, our _star_ being the only +unlucky one. However, what might have been a hardship to many others +was none to us, it being scarcely possible to imagine any thing more +delightful than a voyage which, though comparatively slow, was the +reverse of tedious, and in which we could discourse unrestrainedly, +and occupy any part of the vessel most agreeable to ourselves. We +picked up a very respectable man and his daughter, an interesting +little girl, who spoke English very tolerably, and seemed delighted to +meet with English ladies; and also an exquisite, dressed in the first +style of the Parisian mode, but of him we saw little, he being wholly +occupied with himself. + +The steam-company are entering into an arrangement at Vernon for +the construction of a lock similar to one already formed at +Pont-de-l'Arche, which we had passed through in the morning, and which +will obviate the inconvenience and difficulty of the present mode of +navigating the river. + +The next place of interest to which we came was Rosny, a village +famous in the pages of history as the residence of the great and good, +the friend and minister of Henry IV., the virtuous Sully. Our boatmen, +who were not great antiquaries, said nothing about the early occupants +of the chateau, exerting all their eloquence in praise of a later +resident--the Duchesse de Berri. This lady rendered herself extremely +popular in the vicinity, living in a style of princely splendour, and +devoting her time to acts of munificence. Every year she portioned +off a bride, giving a dowry to some respectable young lady of the +neighbourhood, while to the poor she was a liberal and untiring +benefactress. The boatmen blessed her as they passed, for to all she +sent wine, and upon fête-days gave banquets to the rural population, +to whom her remembrance will be ever dear. Our informants pointed out +a small chapel, which they described as being very beautiful, which +she had built as a depository for her husband's heart; this precious +relic she carried away with her when she left Rosny, which she quitted +with the regrets of every human being in the neighbourhood. + +The chateau has been purchased by an English banker, but is now +uninhabited: there was a report of its being about to be pulled down. +It is a large, heavy building, not distinguished by any architectural +beauty, yet having an imposing air, from its extent and solidity. +It is surrounded by fine woods and pleasure-grounds, laid out in +the formal style, which is still the characteristic of French +landscape-gardening. Nothing can be more beautiful than the +surrounding scenery, the winding river with its vineyards hanging +in terraces from the opposite heights, the village reposing beneath +sun-lit hills, while corn-fields, pasture-land, and cattle grazing, +convey the most pleasing ideas of the comfort of those who dwell upon +this luxuriant soil. + +The city of Mantes now appeared in the distance, and as we approached +it, our guides pointed out, on the opposite heights of Gassicourt, +a hermitage and Calvary, which had formerly proved a great source +of profit. An ascetic, of great pretensions to sanctity, took up his +abode many years ago in this retreat, carrying on a thriving trade, +every boat that passed contributing twopence, for which consideration +the hermit rung a bell, to announce their arrival at the bridge of +Mantes, giving notice to the town, in order to facilitate the transfer +of baggage or passengers. This tax or tribute the hermit was not +himself at the trouble of collecting, it being scrupulously despatched +to him by the donors, who would have deemed it sinful to deprive the +holy man of what they considered his just due. + +The sort of piety, which once supported so great a multitude of +religious mendicants, is greatly on the decline in France. A few +crosses on the bridges and heights, and the dresses of the priesthood +whom we encountered in the streets, were the only exterior signs of +Roman Catholicism which we had yet seen. Our boatmen spoke with great +respect of the Sisters of Charity, pointing out a convent which they +inhabited, and told us that during illness they had themselves been +greatly indebted to the care and attention of these benevolent women. + +It was now growing dark, and we very narrowly escaped a serious +accident in passing the bridge of Meulan, the boat coming into contact +with one of the piers; fortunately, the danger was espied in time. +There was now not the slightest chance of reaching Paris before the +following morning; but we regretted nothing except the want of light, +the gathering clouds rendering it impossible to see any thing of the +scenery, which, we were told, increased in beauty at every mile. We +consoled ourselves, however, with tea and whist in the cabin; in fact, +we played with great perseverance throughout the whole of our journey, +the spirits of the party never flagging for a single instant. + +We found a good hotel at the landing-place, at which we arrived at a +very late hour, and starting the next morning by the early train +to Paris, passed by the rail-road through an extremely interesting +country, leaving St. Germain-en-Laye behind, and tracking the windings +of the Seine, now too shallow to admit of the navigation of boats of +any burthen. + +The construction of this rail-road was attended with considerable +difficulty and great expense, on account of its being impeded by the +works at Marli, for the supply of water to Versailles. The building +of the bridges over the Seine, which it crosses three times, was also +very costly. The carriages of the first class are very inferior to +those of the same description upon the rail-roads in England, but they +are sufficiently comfortable for so short a distance. We were set down +at the barrier of Clichi, an inconvenient distance from the best part +of Paris. Here we had to undergo a second inspection of our baggage, +and I became somewhat alarmed for the fate of my medicine-chest. We +had taken nothing else with as that could be seizable, and this was +speedily perceived by the officials, who merely went through the form +of an examination. + +The divisions in one of my portmanteaus had excited some suspicion +at Havre, one of the men fancying that he had made a grand discovery, +when he pronounced it to have a false bottom. We explained the method +of opening it to his satisfaction, and afterwards, in overhauling +my bonnet-box, he expressed great regret at the derangement of the +millinery, which certainly sustained some damage from his rough +handling. Altogether, we had not to complain of any want of civility +on the part of the custom-house officers; but travellers who take the +overland route to India, through France, will do well to despatch all +their heavy baggage by sea, nothing being more inconvenient than a +multitude of boxes. I had reduced all my packages to four, namely, two +portmanteaus, a bonnet-box, and a leather bag, which latter contained +the medicine-chest, a kettle and lamp, lucifer-matches, &c; my +bonnet-box was divided into two compartments, one of which contained +my writing-case and a looking-glass; for as I merely intended to +travel through a portion of our British possessions in India, and +to return after the October monsoon of 1840, I wished to carry every +thing absolutely necessary for my comfort about with we. + +Another annoyance sustained by persons who take the route through +France is, the trouble respecting their passports, which must be ready +at all times when called upon for examination, and may be the cause of +detention, if the proper forms are not scrupulously gone through. We +were not certain whether it would be necessary to present ourselves +in person at the Bureau des Passeports, Quai des Orfèvres, in Paris, +after having sent them to the British embassy; but we thought it +better to avoid all danger of delay, and therefore drove to a quarter +interesting on account of its being a place of some importance as +the original portion of Paris, and situated on the island. In this +neighbourhood there are also the famous Hotel Dieu and Notre Dame, +to both of which places we paid a visit, looking _en passant_ at the +Morgue. The gentleman who accompanied us entered a building, with +whose melancholy celebrity all are acquainted; but though it did not +at that precise moment contain a corpse, the report did not induce us +to follow his example: a circumstance which we afterwards regretted. +It may be necessary to say, that at other places we sent our passports +to the Hotel de Ville; but at Paris there is a different arrangement. + +Although the journey up the Seine from Havre proved very delightful to +me, I do not recommend it to others, especially those to whom time is +of importance. There is always danger of detention, and the length of +the sea-voyage, especially from London, may be productive of serious +inconvenience. For seeing the country, it is certainly preferable to +the diligence, and my experience will teach those who come after me to +inquire into the character of the steam-boat before they enter it. + + + + +CHAPTER II. + + * * * * * + +PARIS TO MARSEILLES. + + * * * * * + + Description of Paris--Departure by the Diligence--The Country--The + Vineyards--Hotels and fare--Arrival at Lyons--Description of + the City--Departure in the Steam-boat for Arles--Descent of the + Rhône--Beauty and Variety of the Scenery--Confusion on disembarking at + Beaucaire--A Passenger Drowned--Arrival at Arles--Description of the + Town--Embarkation in the Steamer for Marseilles--Entrance into the + Mediterranean--Picturesque approach to Marseilles--Arrival in the + Harbour--Description of Marseilles--Observations upon the Journey + through France by Ladies. + + +A week's residence in Paris does not give a stranger any title to +decide upon the merits or demerits of that far-famed city. The period +of the year (September) was not the most favourable for a visit, all +the best families having emigrated to their country habitations, and +the city consequently exhibited a deserted air, at variance with every +preconceived notion of the gaiety of the French capital. The mixture +of meanness and magnificence in the buildings, the dirt and bad +smells, combine to give an unfavourable impression, which time only, +and a better acquaintance with the more agreeable features of the +place, can remove. + +We had entertained a hope, upon our arrival in Paris, of getting the +_malle poste_ for our journey to Châlons; but it was engaged for at +least a month in advance. We were not more fortunate, our party now +being reduced to three, in our endeavour to secure the _coupé_, and +were obliged to be contented with places (corners) in the interior. +We despatched all our heavy goods--that is, the portmanteaus--by +_messagerie_, to Marseilles, which was a great saving of trouble. +Though the expense of this conveyance is enormous, it has the great +advantage of speed, travelling nearly as quickly as the diligence, +while by the _roulage_, which is cheaper, very inconvenient delays may +be incurred. + +We quitted Paris on the 13th of September, well pleased with the +treatment we had received. Though the charges for lodging, washing, +&c. were high, there was no attempt at imposition; our landlady +would not allow us to pay any thing for the eighth day of our abode, +although we thereby entered into another week. We had the pleasure +of leaving every body well satisfied with us, and willing to receive +another English party. + +The diligence started at the appointed hour, namely, six o'clock in +the evening. Unaccustomed to travel all night, we were rather anxious +about breakfast, as we had merely stopped to change horses, without +resting for any refreshment since we quitted Paris. Upon our arrival +at Sens, at about seven o'clock in the morning, we were amused by the +appearance of a party of persons running, gesticulating, and talking +with all their might, who brought hot coffee, milk, bread, and fruit +to the carriage-door. At first we were disinclined to avail ourselves +of the breakfast thus offered, but learning that we should not get any +thing else before twelve o'clock in the day, we overcame our scruples, +and partook of the despised fare, which we found very good of its +kind. + +The country we passed through was rich with vineyards, and, on account +of the undulating nature of the land, and the frequency of towns +and villages, exceedingly pleasing to the eye. We were continually +delighted with some splendid burst of scenery. There was no want +of foliage, the absence of the magnificent timber which we find in +England being the less remarkable, in consequence of the number of +trees which, if not of very luxuriant growth, greatly embellish the +landscape, while we saw the vine everywhere, the rich clusters of its +grapes reaching to the edge of the road. Though robbed of its +grace, and its lavish display of leaf and tendril, by the method +of cultivating, each plant being reduced to the size of a small +currant-bush, the foliage, clothing every hill with green, gave the +country an aspect most grateful to those who are accustomed to English +verdure. + +We made our first halt at Auxerre, when a _déjeûner à la fourchette_ +was served up to the travellers in the diligence. A bad English +dinner is a very bad thing, but a bad French one is infinitely worse. +Hitherto, we had fed upon nothing but the most dainty fare of the best +hotels and _cafés_, and I, at least, who wished to see as much as I +could of France, was not displeased at the necessity of satisfying the +cravings of appetite with bread and melon. There were numerous dishes, +all very untempting, swimming in grease, and brought in a slovenly +manner to the table; a roast fowl formed no exception, for it was +sodden, half-raw, and saturated with oil. It was only at the very +best hotels in France that we ever found fowls tolerably well roasted; +generally speaking, they are never more than half-cooked, and are +as unsightly as they are unsavoury. Our fellow-passengers did ample +justice to the meal, from which we gladly escaped, in order to devote +the brief remainder of our time to a hasty toilet. + +From what we could see of it, Auxerre appeared to be a very pretty +place, it being at this time perfectly enwreathed with vines. In +fact, every step of our journey increased our regret that we should be +obliged to hurry through a country which it would have delighted us +to view at leisure, each town that we passed through offering some +inducement to linger on the road. Active preparations were making +for the vintage, the carts which we met or overtook being laden with +wine-casks, and much did we desire to witness a process associated in +our minds with the gayest scenes of rural festivity. + +It would not be a fair criterion to judge of the accommodation +afforded at the hotels of the French provinces by those at which the +diligence changed horses; in some I observed that we were not shown +into the best apartments reserved for public entertainment, but in +none did we find any difficulty in procuring water to wash with, +nor did we ever see a dish substituted for a basin. From our own +observation, it seems evident that the inns in the provinces have been +much improved since the peace with England, and it appeared to us, +that no reasonable objection could be made to the accommodation +supplied. Auxerre certainly furnished the worst specimen we met with +on the road; at no other place had we any right to complain of our +entertainment, and at some the fare might be called sumptuous. + +On the third morning from our departure from Paris, when nearly +exhausted, the rising sun gave us a view of the environs of Lyons. +We had been afraid to stop at Châlons the day before, having been +informed that the Saône was not sufficiently full to ensure the +certainty of the steam-boat's arrival at the promised time at Lyons. +This was a great disappointment, but we were rewarded by the rich and +beautiful scenery which characterises the route by land. We could not +help fancying that we could distinguish the home of Claude Melnotte +amid those villages that dotted the splendid panorama; and the +pleasure, with which I, at least, contemplated the fine old city, was +not a little enhanced by its association with the Lady of Lyons and +her peasant lover. + +Lyons more than realised all the notions which I had formed concerning +it, having an air of antique grandeur which I had vainly expected +to find at Rouen. It is well-built throughout, without that striking +contrast between the newer buildings and the more ancient edifices, +which is so remarkable in the capital of Normandy. The Hotel de Ville, +in the large square, is a particularly fine building, and the whole +city looks as if it had been for centuries the seat of wealth and +commerce. + +Friends in England, and the few we met with or made in Paris, had +furnished us with the names of the hotels it would be most advisable +to put up at; but these lists were, as a matter of course, lost, and +we usually made for the nearest to the place where we stopped. The +Hotel de Paris, which looks upon the Hotel de Ville, was the one we +selected at Lyons; it was large and commodious, but had a dull and +melancholy air. As it is usual in French hotels, the building enclosed +a court-yard in the centre, with galleries running round the three +sides, and reaching to the upper stories. The furniture, handsome of +its kind, was somewhat faded, adding to the gloom which is so often +the characteristic of a provincial inn. + +As soon as possible, we sallied forth, according to our usual wont, to +see as much as we could of the town and its environs; both invited a +longer stay, but we were anxious to be at Marseilles by the 19th, and +therefore agreed to rise at half-past three on the following morning, +in order to be ready for the steamer, which started an hour after. We +had begun, indeed, to fancy sleep a superfluous indulgence; my female +friend (Miss E.), as well as myself, suffering no other inconvenience +from three nights spent in a diligence than that occasioned by swelled +feet and ancles. + +We found a very considerable number of persons in the steam-boat, many +of whom were English, and amongst them a gentleman and his wife, who, +with four children, were travelling to Nice, where they proposed to +spend the winter. The fine weather of the preceding day had deserted +us, and it rained in torrents during the first hours of the descent +of the Rhône. The wet and cold became so difficult to bear, that I +was glad to take up a position under the funnel of the steamer, +where, protected a little from the rain, I speedily got dry and warm, +enjoying the scenery in despite of the very unfavourable state of the +weather. We missed our communicative boatman of the Seine, but +met with a very intelligent German, who gave us an account of the +remarkable places _en route_, pointing out a spot once exceedingly +dangerous to boats ascending or descending, in consequence of a +projecting rock, which, by the orders of the Emperor Napoleon, had +been blown up. + +All the steamers which leave Lyons profess to go as far as Arles; but, +in order to ensure conveyance to that place the same evening, it is +necessary to ascertain whether they carry freight to Beaucaire, for in +that case they always stay the night to unlade, taking the boat on +at an early hour the following morning. We found ourselves in this +predicament; and perhaps, under all the circumstances to be related, +it would be advisable to leave the Lyons boat at Avignon and proceed +by land to Marseilles. Many of the passengers pursued this plan. + +The weather cleared up in the middle of the day, and we passed Avignon +in a rich crimson sunset, which threw its roseate flush upon the ruins +of the Papal palace, and the walls and bastions of this far-famed +city. Experience had shown us the impossibility of taking more than a +cursory view of any place in which we could only sojourn for a single +day, and therefore we satisfied ourselves with the glimpses which we +caught of Avignon from the river. A half-finished bridge, apparently +of ancient date, projects rudely into the middle of the stream; we +passed through another more modern, though somewhat difficult to +shoot; our voyage the whole day having been made under a succession of +bridges, many upon the suspension principle, and extremely light and +elegant. The beauty and variety of the scenery which presented itself, +as we shot along the banks of the Rhône, were quite sufficient to +engage our attention, and to make the hours fly swiftly along; there +were few, however, of our fellow-travellers who did not resort to +other methods of amusement. + +After the weather had cleared, the decks dried, and the sun-beams, +warming, without scorching, glanced through fleecy clouds, the greater +number of the passengers remained in the cabin below, whence, the +windows being small and high, there was literally nothing to be seen. +They employed themselves in reading, writing, or working; the French +ladies in particular being most industrious in plying the needle. We +noticed one family especially, who scarcely shewed themselves +upon deck. It consisted of the mother, an elderly lady, of a very +prepossessing appearance, with her son and daughter; the former about +thirty years old, the latter considerably younger. The dress of +the ladies, which was perfectly neat, consisting of printed muslin +dresses, black silk shawls, and drawn bonnets, seemed so completely +English, that we could scarcely believe that they were not our own +countrywomen; they were the most diligent of the workers and +readers, and as we never went down into the cabin unless to take some +refreshment, or to fetch any thing we wanted, a few brief civilities +only passed between us, but these were so cordially offered, that we +regretted that want of inclination to enjoy the air and prospect upon +deck which detained the party below. + +There was a _restaurateur_ on board the steamer, who supplied the +passengers, at any hour they pleased, with the articles inserted +in his _carte_; every thing was very good of its kind, but the boat +itself was neither handsomely nor conveniently fitted up, and I should +recommend in preference the new iron steamers which have been lately +introduced upon the Rhône. + +It was about nine o'clock in the evening when we reached Beaucaire; +one other boat stopped at this place, but the rest, to our +mortification, went on to Arles. We were told that we must be at +the river-side at four the next morning, in order to proceed, and we +therefore could not reckon upon more than four or five hours' sleep. +The night was very dark, and a scene of great confusion took place in +the disembarkation. We had agreed to wait quietly until the remainder +of the passengers got on shore; and Miss E. and myself, glad to escape +from the bustle and confusion of the deck, went down below to collect +our baggage, &c. The quay was crowded with porters, all vociferating +and struggling to get hold of parcels to carry, while the +commissionaires from the hotels were more than ever eager in +their recommendations of their respective houses: their noise and +gesticulations were so great, and their requests urged with so much +boldness, that we might have been led to suppose we had fallen into +the hands of banditti, who would plunder us the moment they got us +into their clutches. + +Miss E. had posted herself at an open window, watching this strange +scene, and while thus employed, was startled by hearing a piercing +scream, and a plunge into the water; at the same moment, the clamour +on shore became excessive. We instantly rushed upon deck, where we +found our other friend safe; and upon inquiring what had happened, +were told that a box had fallen into the river. Not quite satisfied +of the truth of this statement, we asked several other persons, and +received the same answer, the master of the steamer assuring us that +no more serious accident had occurred. + +We soon afterwards went on shore, which was then perfectly quiet, and, +preceded by a commissionaire, who had persuaded the gentleman of our +party to put himself under his convoy, we walked into the town. At +a short distance from the water, we came upon an hotel of very +prepossessing appearance, which we concluded to be the one to which we +were bound. The windows of the lower and upper floors were all open, +the rooms lighted, showing clean, gay-looking paper upon the walls, +and furniture of a tempting appearance. Our conductor, however, passed +the door, and dived down a lane, upon which we halted, and declared +our resolution to go no further. After a little parley, and amongst +other representations of the superior accommodations of the unknown +hotel, an assurance that the stables were magnificent, we gained our +point, and entered the house which had pleased us so much. We were +met at the door by two well-dressed, good-looking women, who showed us +into some excellent apartments up-stairs, all apparently newly-fitted +up, and exceedingly well-furnished. + +Ordering supper, we descended to the public room, and as we passed +to a table at the farther end, noticed a young man sitting rather +disconsolately at a window. We were laughing and talking with each +other, when, suddenly starting up, the stranger youth exclaimed, "You +are English? how glad I am to hear my own language spoken again!" He +told us that he was travelling through France to Malta, and had +come by the other steam-boat, in which there were no other English +passengers beside himself. He then inquired whether a lady had not +been drowned who came by our vessel; we answered no; but upon his +assurance that such was the fact, we began to entertain a suspicion +that the truth had been concealed from us. It was not, however, until +the next morning, that we could learn the particulars. The gentleman +who had accompanied us, and who had likewise been deceived by the +statements made to him, ascertained that the accident had befallen +the elderly French lady, with whose appearance we had been so much +pleased. She had got on board a boat moored close to ours, and +believing that she had only to step on shore, actually walked into +the river. She was only ten minutes under water, and the probabilities +are, that if the circumstance had been made known, and prompt +assistance afforded, she might have been resuscitated. Amid the number +of English passengers on board the steamer, the chances were very much +in favour of its carrying a surgeon, accustomed to the best methods +to be employed in such cases. No inquiry of the kind was made, and we +understood that the body had been conveyed to a church, there to await +the arrival of a medical man from the town. + +We were, of course, inexpressibly shocked by this fatal catastrophe, +the more so because we all felt that we might have been of use had +we been told the truth. The grief and distraction of the son and +daughter, who had thus lost a parent, very possibly prevented them +from taking the best measures in a case of such emergence; whereas +strangers, anxious to be of service, and having all their presence of +mind at command, might have afforded very important assistance. How +little had we thought, during the day spent so pleasantly upon the +Rhône, that a fiat had passed which doomed one of the party to an +untimely and violent death! Our spirits, which had been of the gayest +nature, were damped by this incident, which recurred to our minds +again and again, and we were continually recollecting some trifling +circumstance which had prepossessed us in favour of the family, thus +suddenly overwhelmed by so distressing an event. + +A couple of hours brought us to Arles, where we arrived before the +town was astir; the steamer to Marseilles did not leave the quay until +twelve o'clock, and we were tantalized by the idea of the excellent +night's rest we might have had if the steamer had fulfilled its +agreement to go on to Arles. The Marseilles boat, though a fine vessel +of its class, was better calculated for the conveyance of merchandize +than of passengers; there being only one cabin, and no possibility of +procuring any refreshment on board. This is the more inconvenient, +as there is danger in bad weather of the passage into the harbour of +Marseilles being retarded for several hours. We now lamented having +slighted an invitation to comfortable quarters in Avignon, which we +found on board the Lyons steamer, printed upon a large card. + +We were much pleased with what we saw of Arles; it is a clean, +well-built town, the streets generally rather narrow, but the houses +good. In walking about, we found many of the outer doors open, and +neat-looking female servants employed in sweeping the halls and +entries. With what I hope may be deemed a pardonable curiosity, we +peeped and sometimes stepped into these interiors, and were gratified +by the neatness and even elegance which they exhibited. We found the +people remarkably civil, and apparently too much accustomed to English +travellers to trouble themselves about us. The hotel was not of the +best class, and we only saw some very inferior _cafés_, consisting +of one small room, with a curtain before the open door, and on the +outside a rude representation, on a board, of a coffee-pot, and a +cup and saucer. All the shops at Arles had curtains at the doors, +a peculiarity which we had not previously observed in the towns of +France. We went into a handsome church, where we found a few people, +principally beggars, at prayers, and leaving a small donation in the +poor-box, beguiled the time by walking and sitting in the _boulevard_ +of the town. + +We were glad to embark at twelve o'clock, and soon afterwards we were +again in motion. The Rhône is at this place a fine broad stream; but +its banks were less interesting than those which we had passed the +previous day. We came at length to a large tract of low land, washed +on the other side by the Mediterranean, which we were told was +tenanted by troops of wild horses, known by their being invariably +white. There were certainly many horses to be seen, and amongst them +numerous white ones; but they appeared to be exceedingly tame, and had +probably only been turned out for the benefit of grazing on the salt +marsh. Possibly there might be some difficulty in catching them in so +large a plain, perfectly unenclosed, and they might have bred in these +solitudes. There were also some very peaceable-looking donkeys to +be seen, and now and then a few cows. We did not perceive any human +habitations until we came to the extreme point, where one or two low, +dreary-looking tenements had been raised. + +The view for the last hour had been magnificent, extending over a +splendid country to the lower Alps, and now Marseilles appeared in the +distance, spread upon the side of a hill down to the water, and +its environs stretching far and wide, villas and country mansions +appearing in every direction. Upon entering the Mediterranean, we were +struck by the line of demarcation which kept the green waters of the +Rhône and the deep dark blue of the sea perfectly distinct from each +other, there being no blending of tints. Here we were delighted by the +appearance of a shoal of large fish, which were seen springing out of +the water; several approached the steamer, gamboling about in the most +beautiful manner possible, darting along close to the surface, and +then making long leaps with their bodies in the air. One of our +fellow-passengers, a German, with whom we had made acquaintance, +hastened to fetch a gun; but, much to our joy, it missed fire in +several attempts to discharge it at the beautiful creatures which had +thus amused us with their sports. How strong must be the destructive +propensity, when it leads men to wanton acts of barbarity like this; +since, had a hundred fish been killed, there would have been no +possibility of getting one on board, and the slaughter must merely +have been perpetrated for slaughter's sake! Our remonstrances passed +unheeded, and we therefore did not conceal our rejoicing over the +disappointment. + +The entrance into Marseilles is very picturesque, it being guarded on +either side by high rocks, bold, and projecting in various shapes. We +found the harbour crowded with vessels of various denominations, and +amongst them several steamers, one a French ship of war, and another +the English Government steamer, appointed to carry the mails to Malta. +The smell arising from the stagnant water in the harbour of Marseilles +was at first almost intolerable, and it was not without surprise that +we saw several gay gondola-looking boats, with white and coloured +awnings, filled with ladies and gentlemen, rowing about apparently for +pleasure. + +The clock struck five as we got on shore, and, much to our annoyance, +we found that our first visit was to be paid to the customhouse. Upon +embarking at Arles, a _gens-d'armes_ had laid his finger upon our +baggage, and demanded our keys; but upon a remonstrance at the +absurdity of a re-examination, after it had passed through the whole +of France, he allowed it to be put on board inviolate. Here, however, +there was no escaping, and, tired as we were, and anxious to get to +our hotel, we were obliged to submit to the delay. Fortunately, we +were the first arrivals, and the search not being very strict, we were +not detained more than ten minutes, or a quarter of an hour, which, +under the circumstances, seemed an age. The nearest hotel was of course +our place of refuge, and we were fortunate in speedily ending a very +good one, the Hotel des Embassadeurs, an immense establishment, +exceedingly well-conducted in every respect. Here we enjoyed the prospect +of a night's rest, having, during a hundred and ten hours, only had about +ten, at two different periods, in bed. Refreshed, however, by a change +of dress, we had no inclination to anticipate the period of repose, but +hurried our toilet, in order to join the dinner at the _table-d'hôte._ + +Marseilles struck us as being the handsomest and the cleanest town we +had yet seen in France. All the houses are spacious and lofty, built +of white stone, and in good condition, while every portion of the city +is well paved, either after the English fashion, or with brick, quite +even, and inserted in a very tasteful manner. Many of the streets +are extremely wide, and some are adorned with handsome fountains. +The shops are very elegant, and much more decorated than those of any +other place in France; some had paintings upon glass, richly gilded, +on either side of the doors, handsome curtains hung down within, and +the merchandise displayed was of the best description. These shops +were also well lighted, and together with the brilliant illuminations +of the neighbouring _cafés_, gave the streets a very gay appearance. +We wandered about until rather a late hour; the _cafés_, both inside +and outside, were crowded with gentlemen; but in the promenades we +saw fewer ladies than we had expected, and came to the conclusion--an +erroneous one in all probability--that French women stay very much at +home. Assuredly, the beauty of the night was most inviting; but, worn +out at last, we were obliged to retire to our hotel. + +The next day, we made inquiries concerning the steamers, and +learned that the French boat was certainly to start on the following +afternoon, the 21st, while the departure of the English vessel +was uncertain, depending upon the arrival of the mails. Though +disappointed at finding that the French steamer did not touch at +Naples, as I had been led to believe, I felt inclined to take my +passage in her; but the advantage of being in time to meet the Bombay +steamer at Suez was so strongly urged upon me, in consequence of the +ticklish state of affairs in Egypt, that, finding plenty of room on +board the _Niagara_, we engaged a couple of berths in the ladies' +cabins. Mehemet Ali was represented to us as being so obstinately +determined to retain possession of the Turkish fleet, and the British +Government so urgent with France to support the Porte against him, +that, if this intelligence was to be depended upon, no time ought to +be lost. It was with reluctance that I gave up my original intention +of lingering on the road, and at Malta, but my unwillingness to run +any risk of being shut out of Egypt prevailed. After executing this +necessary business, we engaged a carriage, and paying a visit to the +British consul, drove about the town and its environs, being the more +pleased the more we saw of both. There appeared to be a deficiency of +trees in the landscape, but a peculiar air of its own compensated for +the want of foliage. + +The private streets and houses of Marseilles are very regular and +well built, nor did we see any portion of the town of a very inferior +description. I should have liked much to have remained a few weeks in +it, and indeed regretted the rapidity of my journey through France, +not being able to imagine any thing more delightful than a leisure +survey of the country through which we passed. I had been so strongly +determined to make the overland trip to India, that I would have +undertaken it quite alone, had I not met with a party to accompany me; +some kind friends would not allow me, however, to make the experiment; +nor do I recommend ladies, unless they are very well acquainted +with the country, to travel through it without the protection of a +gentleman, a courier, or a good servant. Miss E. and myself performed +the whole distance without a care or a thought beyond the objects on +the road; but this we owed entirely to the attention of the gentleman +who put us safely on board the Malta steamer, and who managed every +thing for us upon the way, so that we were never in one single +instance subjected to the slightest annoyance. + + + + +CHAPTER III. + + * * * * * + +MARSEILLES TO ALEXANDRIA. + + * * * * * + + Venations at the Custom-house--Embarkation on the Malta + Steamer--Difficulties of exit from the Harbour--Storm--Disagreeable + Motion of the Steam-vessel--Passengers--Arrival at Malta--Description + of the City--Vehicles--Dress of the Maltese Women--State of + Society--Church of St. John--The Palace--The Cemetery of the Capuchin + Convent--Intolerance of the Roman Catholic Priesthood--Shops, + Cafés, and Hotels--Manufactures and Products of Malta--Heat of + the Island--Embarkation on board an English Government + Steamer--Passengers--A young Egyptian--Arrival at Alexandria--Turkish + and Egyptian Fleets--Aspect of the City from the Sea--Landing. + + +At twelve o'clock on the morning of the 21st of September, we were +informed that the English Government-mails had not arrived, and that +the probabilities were in favour of their not reaching Marseilles +until five o'clock; in which event, the steamer could not leave the +harbour that night. We, therefore, anticipated another day in our +pleasant quarters; but thought it prudent to take our baggage +on board. Upon getting down to the quay, we were stopped by a +_gens-d'armes,_ who desired to have our keys, which we of course +immediately surrendered. On the previous day, while driving about +the town, our progress had been suddenly arrested by one of these +officials, with an inquiry whether we had any thing to declare. He was +satisfied with our reply in the negative, and allowed us to proceed. A +gentleman afterwards asked me whether, in my travels through France, +I had not observed that the police was a mere political agent, +established for the purpose of strengthening the hands of the +government, and not, as in England, intended for the protection of the +people? I could only reply, that we had lost nothing in France, and +that property there appeared to be as secure as at home. Certainly, +the interference of the _gens-d'armes_ about the baggage, and the +continual demand for our passports, were very vexatious, detracting in +a great degree from the pleasure of the journey. + +We found the rate of porterage excessively high; the conveyance of our +baggage to and fro, as we passed from steam-boats to hotels, proving, +in the aggregate, enormous; the whole went upon a truck, which one +man drew, with apparent ease, and for a very short distance, we paid +nearly double the sum demanded for the hire of a horse and cart in +London, from Baker Street, Portman Square, to the Custom House. + +Upon getting on board the _Megara_, we found that the mails were in +the act of delivery, and that the vessel would start without delay. +We had now to take leave of the friend who had seen us so far upon our +journey, and to rely wholly upon ourselves, or the chance civilities +we might meet with on the road. Our spirits, which had been so gay, +were much damped by the loss of a companion so cheerful and ready +to afford us every enjoyment within our reach, and we in consequence +thought less of the danger to which we were shortly afterwards +exposed, the pain of parting being the paramount feeling. + +There is always some difficulty in getting out of the harbour of +Marseilles, and the natural obstacles are heightened by the want of +a superintending power. There is no harbour-master, to regulate +the movements of vessels, and to appoint their respective places; +consequently, there is generally a great deal of confusion; while +serious accidents are not unfrequent. + +Before we got under weigh, I saw my old acquaintance, Hussein Khan, +the Persian ambassador, go on board the French steamer, which was +anchored within a short distance of us. He was received with all the +honours due to his rank; which, by the way, was not acknowledged in +England; and his suite, whom we had seen lounging at the doors of the +_cafés_ the evening before, made a gay appearance on the deck. + +We got foul of one or two ships as we went out, and just as we left +the harbour, the clouds, which had threatened all the morning, burst +upon us in a tremendous storm, accompanied by thunder and lightning. +The rain came down in torrents, sweeping along the decks, while a +heavy squall threatened to drive us upon the rocks, which we had +admired so much as the guardians of the port. In this emergency, we +were compelled to drop our anchor, and remain quiescent until the fury +of the elements had abated. The storm passed away about midnight, and +getting the steam up, we were far away from Marseilles and _la belle +France_ before morning. + +The _Megara_ belonged to a class of steamers built for the government +upon some new-fangled principle, and which have the art of rolling in +any sea. Though the waters of the Mediterranean were scarcely ruffled +by the breeze, which was in our favour, there was so much motion in +the vessel, that it was impossible to employ ourselves in any way +except in reading. In other respects, the _Megara_ was commodious +enough; the stern cabin, with smaller ones opening into it, and each +containing two bed-places, was appropriated to the ladies, the whole +being neatly fitted up. We found some agreeable fellow-passengers; the +only drawback being a family of three children. In consequence of the +cabins being thus occupied, we could not preserve the neatness +and order which are so essential to comfort, and which need not be +dispensed with even in a short voyage. + +Our commandant, Mr. Goldsmith, a descendant of the brother of the +poet, and who appeared to have inherited the benevolence of his +distinguished relative, was indefatigable in his exertions to render +us happy. He had procured abundant supplies for the table, which was +every day spread with a profusion of good things, while eight or ten +different kinds of wine, in addition to ale and porter, were placed +at the disposal of the guests. Nothing, indeed, was wanting, except a +French cook. No single meal had ever disagreed with us in France; but +though partaking sparingly, we felt the inconvenience of the heavy +English mode of cookery. + +Amongst the attendants at table was one who speedily grew into the +good graces of all the passengers. A little fellow, eight years +old, but who did not look more than seven, placed himself at the +commandant's elbow, who immediately upon seeing him exclaimed, with a +benevolent smile, "What, are you here, Jemmy? then we are all right." +Jemmy, it seems, was the boatswain's son, and no diminutive page +belonging to a spoiled lady of quality, or Lilliputian tiger in the +service of a fashionable aspirant, could have been dressed in more +accurate costume. Jemmy was every inch a sailor; but, while preserving +the true nautical cut, his garments were fashioned with somewhat +coxcombical nicety, and he could have made his appearance upon any +stage as a specimen of aquatic dandyism. Jemmy would be invaluable on +board a yacht. His services at table were rewarded by a plateful of +pudding, which he ate standing at the captain's right hand, after +having, with great propriety, said grace. The little fellow had been +afloat for a year and a half; but during this period his education +had not been neglected, and he could read as well as any person in the +ship. + +Amongst our passengers was a French gentleman, the commandant and +owner of an Indiaman, which had sailed from Bordeaux to Bombay under +the charge of the first officer. He had previously made twelve voyages +to India; but now availed himself of the shorter route, and proposed +to join his vessel at Bombay, dispose of the cargo, and, after taking +in a new freight, return through Egypt. The only coasts in sight, +during our voyage from Marseilles to Malta, were those of Sardinia +and Africa, Sicily being too far off to be visible. We were not near +enough to Sardinia to see more than a long succession of irregular +hills, which looked very beautiful under the lights and shades of a +lovely summer sky. The weather was warm, without being sultry, and +nothing was wanting excepting a few books. Mr. Goldsmith regretted the +absence of a library on board, but expressed his intention of making a +collection as speedily as possible. + +The excessive and continual motion of the vessel caused me to suffer +very severely from seasickness; the exertion of dressing in the +morning always brought on a paroxysm, but I determined to struggle +against it as much as possible, and was only one day so completely +overpowered as to be unable to rise from the sofa. This sickness +was the more provoking, since there was no swell to occasion it, the +inconvenience entirely arising from Sir Somebody Symonds' (I believe +that is the name) method of building. What the _Megara_ would be in a +heavy sea, there is no saying, and I should be very sorry to make the +experiment. + +We found ourselves at Malta at an early hour of the morning of +the 25th, having been only five nights and four days on board. Mr. +Goldsmith celebrated our last dinner with a profusion of champaigne, +and though glad to get out of the vessel, we felt unfeignedly sorry to +take leave of our kind commandant. We were, of course, up by daylight, +in order to lose nothing of the view. + +Much as I had heard of the gay singularity of the appearance of Malta, +I felt surprise as well as delight at the beautiful scene around; +nor was I at all prepared for the extent of the city of Valetta. The +excessive whiteness of the houses, built of the rock of which +the island is composed, contrasted with the vivid green of their +verandahs, gives to the whole landscape the air of a painting, in +which the artist has employed the most brilliant colours for sea +and sky, and habitations of a sort of fairy land. Nor does a nearer +approach destroy this illusion; there are no prominently squalid +features in Malta, the beggars, who crowd round every stranger, being +the only evidence, at a cursory gaze, of its poverty. + +Soon after the _Megara_ had dropped anchor, a young officer from the +_Acheron_, the steamer that had brought the mails from Gibraltar, came +on board to inquire whether I was amongst the passengers, and gave me +the pleasing intelligence that a lady, a friend of mine, who had left +London a few days before me, was now in Malta, and would proceed to +India in the vessel appointed to take the mails. She was staying at +Durnsford's Hotel, a place to which I had been strongly recommended. +Mr. Goldsmith was kind enough to promise to see our heavy baggage on +board the _Volcano_, the vessel under sailing orders; and a clergyman +and his wife, resident in Malta, who had gone to Marseilles for a +change of scene and air, inviting Miss E. and myself to accompany them +on shore, we gladly accepted their offer. + +We found a _caless_ in waiting for us; a very singular description of +vehicle, but one common to the island. I had seen representations of +these carriages in old engravings, but had not the least idea that +they were still in use. They have only two wheels, placed behind, so +that the horse has to bear the weight of the vehicle as well as to +draw it; and there is something so inexpressibly odd in the whole +arrangement, that it put me in mind of the equipages brought on the +stage in a Christmas pantomime. Our _caless_ held four persons very +conveniently, and was really a handsome vehicle, gaily lined with +scarlet leather, and having spring seats. We saw others plying for +hire, of a very inferior description; some only calculated for two +persons, and of a faded and dilapidated appearance. They seem to be +dangerous conveyances, especially for the poor horse; we heard of one +being upset, on a steep hill, and breaking the neck of the animal that +drew it. In driving, we were obliged to take rather a circuitous route +to our inn, though the distance, had we walked, would have been very +inconsiderable. We were glad of the opportunity of seeing a little +of the suburbs, and were almost sorry to arrive at the place of our +destination. + +As we came along we were delighted with the picturesque appearance +of the Maltese women, whose national dress is at once nunlike and +coquettish. A black petticoat envelopes the form from the waist, and +over that is thrown a singular veil, gathered into a hood, and kept +out with a piece of whalebone. This covering, which is called the +_faldetta_, is capable of many arrangements, and is generally disposed +so as to "keep one eye free to do its worst of witchery." When one +of the poorer classes is enabled to clothe herself in a veil and +petticoat of silk, she considers that she has gained the _acmé_ of +respectability. The streets of the city of Valetta are extremely +narrow, and the houses high; a great advantage in such a climate, as +it ensures shade, while, as they generally run at right angles, they +obtain all the breeze that is to be had. + +The appearance of our hotel was prepossessing. We entered through a +wide gateway into a hall opening upon a small court, in the centre of +which stood a large vase, very well sculptured, from the stone of the +island, and filled with flowers. A wide handsome staircase, also of +stone, with richly-carved balustrades, and adorned with statues and +vases, conducted us to a gallery, two sides of which were open, and +the other two closed, running round the court-yard, and affording +entrance to very good apartments. Every thing was perfectly clean; +the bedsteads of iron, furnished with mosquito-curtains; and we were +supplied immediately with every article that we required. + +As the rolling of the _Megara_ had prevented the possibility +of forming a sentence, we sat down to write letters, and having +despatched a few of the introductions to residents, with which my +friends in England had supplied me, I was agreeably surprised by some +visits which I had scarcely expected, as we found that we should be +obliged to embark for Alexandria in the evening. + +I did not hear very flattering accounts of the state of society at +Malta, which, like that of all other confined places, is split into +factions, and where there seems to be a perpetual struggle, by the +least fortunate classes, to assert equality with those whose rank is +acknowledged; thus every person attached to the government assumes +eligibility for the _entré_ into the best circles, while the +magnates of the place are by no means inclined to admit them to these +privileges. It appeared that the endeavours of the Commissioner to +produce a greater degree of cordiality between the Maltese inhabitants +and the English residents, so far from succeeding, had tended to +widen the distance between them, and that the Maltese were by no means +grateful for the efforts made for their improvement. However, though +the fruits may not at present appear, the seed having been sown, we +may entertain a strong hope that they will show themselves in time. + +While an undertaking so gigantic as the diffusion of the English +language throughout India has been attempted, it seems rather +extraordinary that the efforts of the committee should not have +been directed to the same result in Malta, and that the progress of +education should not have been conducted in the language that promised +to prove the most useful to subjects of the British crown; but it +appears that the committee decided otherwise, and complaints are +making, that the instruction now supplied at the schools is of the +most superficial nature, and by no means calculated to produce the +desired end. + +Every object in Malta bears witness to the ingenuity and industry of +its inhabitants. The softness of the stone renders it easily cut, and +the Dowager Marchioness of Hastings (who has left imperishable marks +of her desire to benefit those who came under her observation), in +supplying the best designs, has filled the shops of Malta with a +tasteful species of _bijouterie_, which is eagerly sought after by +all the visitors. The carved work of Malta is sold very cheap; but the +same quality, which renders it so easily cut, occasions it to chip, +and, therefore, great care is necessary in packing these fragile +articles. + +As soon as possible, we sallied forth to inspect the far-famed church +of St. John, and found our expectations more than gratified by the +interior of this gorgeous edifice. It was not, however, without +melancholy feelings, that we reflected on the miserable remnant of +those valiant knights, who had made Malta celebrated throughout all +history, and who, on the suppression of the order, were suffered to +languish out the remainder of their existence in obscurity. Mass was +performing at the time of our entrance, and seating ourselves in one +of the side chapels until it should be over, we were at its conclusion +accosted by a priest, who, finding that we did not speak Italian, sent +another person to show the beauties of the church. Some Maltese ladies +greeted us very courteously, and though, perhaps, we would rather have +wandered about alone, indulging in our own recollections of the past, +we could not help being pleased with the attentions which were paid +us. + +Upon returning to our inn, we met a gentleman with whom we were +slightly acquainted, who, upon learning that I had a letter to Sir +Henry Bouverie, the governor, recommended me to deliver it in person, +the palace being close at hand. Our party met with a very courteous +reception, and we were happy in the opportunity thus afforded of +seeing the palace, which showed remains of former grandeur far +more interesting than any modern improvements could have been. One +apartment, in particular, hung round with tapestry, which, though +brought from France 135 years ago, retains all the brilliancy of its +original colouring, pleased us exceedingly. + +There are some good paintings upon the walls; but the armoury is the +most attractive feature in the palace. It consists of one splendid +apartment, running the whole length of the building, and makes a very +imposing appearance; the arms of various periods being well arranged. +The collection of ancient weapons was not so great as I had expected; +still there were very interesting specimens, and an intelligent +corporal, belonging to one of the Queen's regiments, who acted as +_Cicerone_, gave us all the information we could require. + +Some of our party had the curiosity to visit the cemetery of the +Capuchin convent, in which the monks who die, after having undergone +a preserving process, are dressed in the habit of the order, and +fastened up in niches; when the skeletons, from extreme age, actually +fall to pieces, the skulls and bones are formed into funeral trophies +for the decoration of the walls; and the whole is described as a most +revolting and barbarous spectacle. The last occupant was said to have +departed this life as late as 1835, adding, by the comparative newness +of his inhumation, to the horrors of the scene. + +The influence of the priesthood, though still very great, is +represented to be upon the decline; they have lately, however, +shown their power, by retarding the progress of the building of the +Protestant church, to which the Dowager Queen Adelaide so munificently +subscribed. All the workmen employed are obliged to have dispensations +from the Pope, and every pretext is eagerly seized upon to delay the +erection of the edifice. At present, the Protestant community, with +few exceptions, are content to have service performed in an angle of +the court-yard of the palace, formerly a cellar and kitchen, but now +converted into an episcopal chapel and vestry-room. The members of +the society have a small chapel, not adequate to the accommodation of +those who desire to attend it, belonging to the Methodist persuasion; +but its minister is afraid to encounter the difficulties and delays +which would be consequent upon an attempt to enlarge it. There is a +public library adjoining the palace, originally formed by the knights, +but considered now to be more extensive than valuable. + +The period which I spent upon the island was too brief to allow me to +make any inquiries respecting its institutions, the novelties of +the scene engaging my attention so completely, that I could give no +thought to anything else. The shops and _cafés_ of La Valetta have a +very gay appearance, and the ingenuity of the inhabitants is displayed +in several manufactures; the black lace mittens, now so fashionable, +being particularly well made. Table-linen, also of superior quality, +may be purchased, wrought in elegant patterns, and, if bespoken, with +the coat-of-arms or crest worked into the centre or the corners. In +the fashioning of the precious metals, the Maltese likewise excel, +their filagree-work, both in gold and silver, being very beautiful: +the Maltese chains have long enjoyed a reputation in Europe, and other +ornaments may be purchased of equal excellence. + +To the eye of a stranger, Malta, at this period of the year (the end +of September), seems bare and destitute of verdure; yet, from the +quantity of every kind of vegetables brought to market, it must be +amazingly productive. The growth of cotton, lately introduced into +Egypt, has been injurious to the trade and manufactures of Malta, and +the attempt to supply its place with silk failed. In the opinion of +some persons, the experiment made had not a fair trial. The mulberry +trees flourished, and the silk produced was of an excellent quality; +but the worms did not thrive, and in consequence the design was +abandoned. Inquiry has shown, that the leaves from old trees are +essential to the existence of the silk-worm, and that, had the +projectors of the scheme been aware of a fact so necessary to be +known, they would have awaited the result of a few more years, which +seems all that was necessary for the success of the undertaking. +How many goodly schemes have been ruined from the want of scientific +knowledge upon the part of their projectors, and how frequently it +happens that a moment of impatience will destroy the hopes of years! + +Fruit is cheap, plentiful, and excellent at Malta, the figs and grapes +being of very superior quality, while the island affords materials for +the most luxurious table. The golden mullet and the _Becca fica_ are +abundant; and all the articles brought to market are procurable at +low prices. I can scarcely imagine a more agreeable place to spend a +winter in, and I promise myself much gratification in the sojourn of +a few weeks at this delightful island upon my return to England. I can +very strongly recommend Durnsford's Hotel as a place of residence, the +accommodation being excellent and the terms moderate. In remaining any +time, arrangement may be made for apartments and board, by which means +the rate of living is much cheaper, while the style is equally good. + +There is an opera at Malta, in which performances of various degrees +of mediocrity are given. The gay period to a stranger is that of the +carnival; but, at other times, the festivals of the church, celebrated +in this isolated place with more of the mummeries of Roman Catholicism +than obtain in many other countries professing the same faith, afford +amusement to the lovers of the grotesque. + +Though the thermometer at Malta seldom rises to 90°, yet the heat in +the sultry season is very great. Every person, who is in the habit of +studying the glass, becomes aware of the difference between the heat +that is actually felt and that which is indicated by instruments; and +in no place is this discrepancy more sensibly experienced than Malta, +in which the state of the winds materially affects the comfort of the +inhabitants. A good authority assures us, that "the heat of Malta +is most oppressive, so much so, as to justify the term 'implacable,' +which is often applied to it. The sun, in summer, remains so long +above the horizon, and the stone walls absorb such an enormous +quantity of heat, that they never have sufficient time to get +cool; and during the short nights, this heat radiates from them so +copiously, as to render the nights, in fact, as hot as the days, and +much more oppressive to the feelings of those who are accustomed +to associate the idea of coolness with darkness. I have seen the +thermometer, in a very sheltered part of my house, steadily maintain, +during the night, the same height to which it had arisen in the day, +while I marked it with feelings of incalculably increased oppression, +and this for three successive weeks in August and September, 1822." + +At Malta, we were recommended, in consequence of the unsettled state +of affairs between Mehemet Ali and the European powers, to proceed +forthwith to Egypt, and though strongly tempted to prolong my stay in +the island, I thought it advisable to make the best of my way to the +Red Sea, and defer the pleasure, which a more protracted residence +promised, until my return in the ensuing year. Lieut. Goldsmith, our +kind commandant of the _Megara_, called upon us, according to promise, +to conduct us on board the new steamer, the _Volcano_, the vessel +appointed to carry the mails on to Alexandria. This ship was in +quarantine, and it was consequently necessary to take some precautions +in going on board. We proceeded, in the first instance, to a police +station, where we took a second boat in tow, and a _guadiano_, an +official appointed to see that no persons transgress the rules and +regulations of the port instituted for the preservation of health. + +Upon getting alongside of the _Volcano_, our baggage was placed in +this boat; Miss E. and myself were then handed in, and cast adrift, to +my great astonishment; for not having had any previous intimation of +the method to be pursued, I was not at all prepared to hold on, as I +believe it is called, without assistance. Miss E., however, who was +more observant, hooked her parasol into one of the ropes, which +she subsequently caught. We were now to be taught a new lesson--the +extreme nonchalance with which the officers of a Government steamer +treat the passengers who have the misfortune to choose these boats +instead of making the voyage on board merchant vessels. Some minutes +elapsed before any notice was taken of us, or any assistance afforded +in getting up our baggage; our own people being obliged to look on +and do nothing, since, had they touched the ship, they would have been +obliged to perform eighteen days of quarantine. + +Upon reaching the deck, we requested that our baggage might be taken +down into the ladies' cabin, in order that we might get our small +dormitories put to rights before the rest of the passengers came on +board; but, though it could have made no earthly difference to the +people employed, we met with a refusal, and the whole was deposited in +the grand saloon, already encumbered with luggage, every quarter of an +hour adding to the heap and the confusion, and the difficulty of each +person recognizing the identical carpet-bag or portmanteau that he +might claim as his property.[A] + +Among our new fellow-passengers there was a young English gentleman, +who intended to travel into Syria, and who, though looking scarcely +twenty, had already spent some years in foreign countries. He was very +modest and unassuming, and both agreeable and intelligent; and, having +had a good deal of conversation together, I was sorry to lose sight of +him at Alexandria. + +We had also one of Mehemet Ali's _protégés_ on board, a young +Egyptian, who had been educated at the Pasha's expense in England, +where he had resided for the last ten years, latterly in the +neighbourhood of a dock-yard, in order to study the art of +ship-building. This young man was a favourite with those persons on +board who could make allowances for the circumstances in which he had +been placed, and who did not expect acquirements which it was almost +impossible for him to attain. His natural abilities were very good, +and he had cultivated them to the utmost of his power. Strongly +attached to European customs, manners, and institutions, he will lose +no opportunity of improving the condition of his countrymen, or of +inducing them to discard those prejudices which retard the progress +of civilization. He was naturally very anxious concerning his future +destiny, for the Pasha's favour is not always to be depended upon, +while the salary of many of the appointments which he does bestow is +by no means adequate to the support of men whom his liberality has +enabled to live in great respectability and comfort in England. Our +new acquaintance also felt that, in returning to his friends and +relatives, he should shock all their prejudices by his entire +abandonment of those customs and opinions by which they were still +guided; he grieved especially at the distress which he should cause +his mother, and determined not to enter into her presence until he had +assumed the national dress, and could appear, outwardly at least, like +an Egyptian. + +The weather, during our short voyage, was remarkably favourable, +although it got rather too warm, especially at night, for comfort. +There are, however, great alleviations to heat in the Mediterranean +steamers. The ladies can have a wind-sail in their cabin, which, +together with the air from the stern windows, renders the temperature +at all times very delightful. They enjoy another advantage in having +a light burning all night, a comfort which cannot be too highly +appreciated, since darkness on board ship increases every other +annoyance. + +We left Malta on the evening of the 25th, and arrived at Alexandria +early in the morning of the 30th. Every eye was strained to catch the +first view of the Egyptian coast, and especially of the Pharos, which +in ancient time directed the mariners to its shores; but the great +object of attraction at this period consisted of the united fleets, +Turkish and Egyptian, which rode at anchor in the port. Our steamer +threaded its way amid these fine-looking vessels, some of which we +passed so closely, as to be able to look into the cabin-windows. To +my unprofessional eye, these ships looked quite as efficient as any +warlike armament of the same nature that I had yet seen. They all +appeared to be well kept, and in good order, while the sailors were +clean, neatly dressed, and actively engaged, some in boats, and others +performing various duties. Though steamers are now very common sights, +we in turn attracted attention, all eyes being directed to our deck. + +Our Egyptian fellow-passenger was especially interested and agitated +at his approach to his native shore, and the evidences which he saw +before him of the power and political influence of the Pasha. From a +gentleman who came on board, we learned that an apprehension had +been entertained at Alexandria of the arrival of a hostile fleet from +Europe, in which event a collision would in all probability have +taken place. Mehemet Ali, it was said, was so foolishly elated by +his successes, and by the attitude he had assumed, as to be perfectly +unaware of his true position, and of the lesson which he would +receive, should he persist in defying the remonstrances of his +European allies. It was also said, that nothing but the favour +shown by the French cabinet to the Pasha had hitherto prevented the +commencement of hostilities, since the British Government, taking the +view of its representative at Constantinople, felt strongly inclined +to proceed to extremities. I merely, of course, state the rumour that +prevailed; whether they carried the slightest authority or not, I do +not pretend to determine. + +Alexandria, from the sea, presents a very imposing appearance; long +lines of handsome buildings, apparently of white stone, relieved by +green Venetian blinds, afford evidence of increasing prosperity, and +a wish to imitate the style of European cities. There is nothing, +however, in the landing-place worthy of the approach to a place of +importance; a confused crowd of camels, donkeys, and their drivers, +congregated amidst heaps of rubbish, awaited us upon reaching the +shore. We had been told that we should be almost torn to pieces by +this rabble, in their eagerness to induce us to engage the services of +themselves or their animals. Accustomed as we had been to the attacks +of French waiters, we were astonished by the indifference of the +people, who very contentedly permitted us to walk to the place of our +destination. + +The lady-passengers, who arrived in the steamer, agreed to prosecute +the remainder of the journey in company; our party, therefore, +consisted of four, with two servants, and a baby; the latter a +beautiful little creature, of seven months old, the pet and delight of +us all. This darling never cried, excepting when she was hungry, and +she would eat any thing, and go to any body. One of the servants +who attended upon her was a Mohammedan native of India, an excellent +person, much attached to his little charge; and we were altogether a +very agreeable party, quite ready to enjoy all the pleasures, and to +encounter all the difficulties, which might come in our way. + +Having formed my expectations of Alexandria from books of travels, +which describe it as one of the most wretched places imaginable, I was +agreeably disappointed by the reality. My own experience of +Mohammedan cities had taught me to anticipate much more of squalor and +dilapidation than I saw; though I confess, that both were sufficiently +developed to strike an European eye. We wended our way through +avenues ancle-deep in sand, and flanked on either side with various +descriptions of native houses, some mere sheds, and others of more +lofty and solid construction. We encountered in our progress several +native parties belonging to the respectable classes; and one lady, +very handsomely dressed, threw aside her outer covering, a dark silk +robe, somewhat resembling a domino, and removing her veil, allowed us +to see her dress and ornaments, which were very handsome. She was +a fine-looking woman, with a very good-natured expression of +countenance. + + +[Footnote A: The author followed up these remarks with others, still +more severe, upon the treatment which she and her fellow-travellers +experienced on board this vessel; but as these remarks seem to have +caused pain, and as Miss Roberts, without retracting one particle of +her statements, regretted that she had published them, it has been +deemed right to omit them in this work.] + + + + +CHAPTER IV. + + * * * * * + +ALEXANDRIA TO BOULAK. + + * * * * * + + Description of Alexandria--Hotels--Houses--Streets--Frank + Shops--Cafés--Equipages--Arrangements for the Journey to + Suez--Pompey's Pillar--Turkish and Arab Burial-grounds--Preparations + for the Journey to Cairo--Embarkation on the Canal--Bad accommodation + in the Boat--Banks of the Canal--Varieties of Costume in + Egypt--Collision during the night--Atfee--Its wretched appearance--The + Pasha--Exchange of Boats--Disappointment at the Nile--Scarcity of + Trees--Manners of the Boatmen--Aspect of the Villages--The Marquess + of Waterford--The Mughreebee Magician--First sight of the + Pyramids--Arrival at Boulak, the Port of Cairo. + + +There are several excellent hotels at Alexandria for the accommodation +of European travellers. We were recommended to Rey's, in which we +found every comfort we could desire. The house is large and handsome, +and well situated, being at the end of a wide street, or rather +_place_, in which the more wealthy of the Frank inhabitants reside, +and where there are several houses belonging to the consuls of +various nations. These latter are usually detached mansions, of a +very handsome description, and one especially, facing the top, will be +magnificent when finished. + +All the houses in this quarter are very solidly constructed, lofty, +and with flat roofs. The ground-floor seems to be appropriated to +merchandize, or as domestic offices, the habitable apartments being +above. The windows are supplied with outside Venetian blinds, usually +painted green, which, together with the pure white of the walls, gives +them a fresh and new appearance, which I had not expected to see. In +fact, nothing could exceed the surprise with which I viewed a street +that would have excited admiration in many of our European capitals. +It will in a short time be embellished by a fountain, which was +erecting at the period of my visit: could the residents get trees +to grow, nothing more would be wanting to render it one of the +most superb avenues of the kind extant; but, a few inches below the +surface, the earth at Alexandria is so completely impregnated +with briny particles, as to render the progress of vegetation very +difficult at all times, and in some places impossible. + +This portion of the city is quite modern; near it there is a more +singular and more ancient series of buildings, called the _Okella_; +a word, I believe, derived from _castle_. This consists of one large +quadrangle, or square, entered by gateways at different sides. A +terrace, approached by flights of steps, extends all round, forming +a broad colonnade, supported upon arches. The houses belonging to the +Franks open upon this terrace; they are large and commodious, but the +look-out does not equal that from the newer quarter; the quadrangle +below exhibiting any thing rather than neatness or order. Goods and +utensils of various kinds, donkeys, camels, and horses, give it the +appearance of the court of a native serai, though at the same time +it may be said to be quite as well kept as many places of a similar +description upon the continent of Europe. The Frank shopkeepers have +their establishments in a narrower avenue at the end of the wide +street before-mentioned. Here are several _cafés_, apparently for the +accommodation of persons to whom the hotels might be too expensive; +some of these are handsomely fitted up in their way: one, especially, +being panelled with shewy French paper, in imitation of the Gobelins +tapestry. I was not sufficiently near to discern the subject, but +when lighted, the colours and figures produced a very gay effect. +I observed a considerable number of druggists' shops; they were +generally entirely open in front, so that the whole economy of the +interior was revealed to view. The arrangements were very neat; the +various articles for sale being disposed upon shelves all round. +We did not make any purchases either here or in the Turkish bazaar, +which, both morning and evening, was crowded with people. Several very +good houses in the European style were pointed out to us as belonging +to Turkish gentlemen, high in office and in the receipt of large +incomes. + +We had ordered dinner at seven o'clock, for the purpose of taking +advantage of the cool part of the day to walk about. We confined our +peregrinations to the Frank quarter and its immediate neighbourhood, +and were amused by the singular figures of other European pedestrians +whom we met with, but whose peculiar country it was difficult to +discover by their dress. Several gentlemen made their appearance on +horseback, but we did not see any females of the superior class. Two +English carriages, filled with Turkish grandees, dashed along with +the recklessness which usually distinguishes native driving; and other +magnates of the land, mounted upon splendid chargers, came forth in +all the pride of Oriental pomp. Having sufficiently fatigued ourselves +with walking ancle-deep in dust and sand, we returned to our hotel, +where we found an excellent dinner, which, among other good things, +comprehended a dish of Beccaficos. + +As I had not intended to reach Alexandria so soon, neither Miss E. +nor myself had given notice of our approach; consequently, there was +nothing in readiness. We had, notwithstanding, hoped to have found +a boat prepared, a friend in London having promised to mention the +possibility of our being in Egypt with the mails that left Marseilles +on the 21st; but this precaution had been neglected, and the +gentleman, who would have provided us with the best vessel procurable, +was too busy with duties which the arrival of the steamer entailed +upon him to do more than express his regret that he could not devote +his whole attention to our comfort. In this emergency, we applied to +Mr. Waghorn, who, in the expectation that I might wish to remain at +Alexandria, had most kindly prepared an apartment for my reception +at his own house. The aspect of affairs, however, did not admit of +my running any risks, and I therefore determined to proceed to Suez +without delay. Under these circumstances, he did the best that the +nature of the case permitted; assured me that I should have his own +boat, which, though small, was perfectly clean, when we got to the +Nile, and provided me with all that I required for the passage. Mrs. +Waghorn also recommended a servant, whose appearance we liked, and +whom we instantly engaged for the trip to Suez. + +I had brought letters to the consul-general, and to several residents +in Alexandria, who immediately paid me visits at our hotel. Colonel +Campbell was most particularly kind and attentive, offering one of the +government janissaries as an escort to Cairo; an offer which we most +readily accepted, and which proved of infinite service to us. We had +no trouble whatever about our baggage; we left it on board, under the +care of the trusty black servant. One of the officers of the ship, who +had distinguished himself during the voyage by his polite attention to +the passengers, had come on shore with us; he sent to the vessel for +our goods and chattels, took our keys and the janissary with him to +the custom-house, and we had speedily the pleasure of seeing them come +upon a camel to the door of the hotel, the fees charged, and the hire +of the animal, being very trifling. There was a large apartment on one +side of the gateway, in which those boxes which we did not desire to +open were deposited, the door being secured by a good lock; in fact, +nothing could be better than the whole arrangements of the hotel. It +was agreed that as little time as possible should be lost in getting +to Suez, and we therefore determined to prosecute our journey as early +in the afternoon of the next day as we could get every thing ready. +Donkeys were to be in waiting at daylight, to convey the party to +Pompey's Pillar, and we retired to rest, overcome by the fatigue and +excitement we had undergone. It was sufficiently warm to render it +pleasant to have some of the windows open; and once or twice in the +night we were awakened by the furious barking of the houseless and +ownerless dogs, which are to be found in great numbers throughout +Egypt. In the day-time the prevailing sound at Alexandria is the +braying of donkeys, diversified by the grunts and moans of the almost +equally numerous camels. + +Engravings have made every inquiring person well acquainted with the +celebrated monument which goes by the name of "Pompey's Pillar," and +the feelings with which we gazed upon it are much more easily imagined +than described. It has the advantage of standing upon a rather +considerable elevation, a ridge of sand, and below it are strewed vast +numbers of more humble memorials of the dead. The Turkish and the Arab +burial-grounds spread themselves at the feet of the Pillar: each +grave is distinguished by a mound of earth and a stone. The piety of +surviving relatives has, in some places, forced the stubborn sand +to yield proofs of their affectionate remembrance of the deceased; +occasionally, we see some single green plant struggling to shadow +the last resting-place of one who slept below; and if any thing were +wanting to add to the melancholy of the scene, it would have been the +stunted and withering leaves thus mournfully enshrouding the silent +dead. There is something so unnatural in the conjunction of a scanty +vegetation with a soil cursed with hopeless aridity, that the gardens +and few green spots, occurring in the neighbourhood of Alexandria, +detract from, instead of embellishing, the scene. Though pleasant +and beautiful as retreats to those who can command an entrance, these +circumscribed patches of verdure offend rather than please the eye, +when viewed from a distance. + +The antiquities of Egypt have been too deeply studied by the erudite +of all Christian countries, for an unlearned traveller to entertain +a hope of being able to throw any additional light upon them. Modern +tourists must, therefore, be content with the feelings which they +excite, and to look, to the present state of things for subjects of +any promise of interest to the readers of their journals. + +After breakfast, we received a visit from the Egyptian gentleman who +had been our fellow-passenger. He brought with him a friend, who, like +himself, had been educated in England, and who had obtained a good +appointment, together with the rank of a field officer, from the +Pasha. The manners of the gentleman were good; modest, but not shy. +He spoke excellent English, and conversed very happily upon all +the subjects broached. Our friend was still in doubt and anxiety +respecting his own destination. Mehemet Ali had left Alexandria for +one of his country residences, on the plea of requiring change of air; +but, in reality, it was said, to avoid the remonstrances of those who +advocated a policy foreign to his wishes. The new arrival could not +present himself to the minister until he should be equipped in an +Egyptian dress. The friend who accompanied him gave us the pleasing +intelligence, that a large handsome boat, with ladies' cabin detached, +and capable of carrying forty passengers, had been built by the +merchants of Alexandria, and when completed--and it only wanted +painting and fitting up--would convey travellers up the canal to +Atfee, a distance which, towed by horses, it would perform in twelve +hours. Small iron steamers were expected from England, to ply upon the +Nile, and with these accommodations, nothing would be more easy and +pleasant than a journey which sometimes takes many days to accomplish, +and which is frequently attended with inconvenience and difficulty. + +We found that Mrs. Waghorn had provided Miss E. and myself with beds, +consisting each of a good mattress stuffed with cotton, a pillow of +the same, and a quilted coverlet, also stuffed with cotton. She lent +us a very handsome canteen; for the party being obliged to separate, +in consequence of the small accommodation afforded in the boats, we +could not avail ourselves of that provided by the other ladies with +whom we were to travel, until we should all meet again upon the +desert. As there may be a danger of not meeting with a canteen, +exactly suited to the wants of the traveller, for sale at Alexandria, +it is advisable to procure one previously to leaving Europe; those +fitted up with tin saucepans are necessary, for it is not easy +to carry cooking apparatus in any other form. We did not encumber +ourselves with either chair or table, but would afterwards have +been glad of a couple of camp-stools. Our supplies consisted of tea, +coffee, wine, wax-candles (employing a good glass lanthorn for a +candlestick), fowls, bread, fruit, milk, eggs, and butter; a pair of +fowls and a piece of beef being ready-roasted for the first meal. We +also carried with us some bottles of filtered water. The baggage of +the party was conveyed upon three camels and a donkey, and we formed a +curious-looking cavalcade as we left the hotel. + +In the first place, the native Indian servant bestrode a donkey, +carrying at the same time our beautiful baby in his arms, who wore a +pink silk bonnet, and had a parasol over her head. All the assistance +he required from others was to urge on his beast, and by the +application of sundry whacks and thumps, he soon got a-head. The +ladies, in coloured muslin dresses, and black silk shawls, rode in +a cluster, attended by the janissary, and two Arab servants also on +donkey-back; a gentleman, who volunteered his escort, and the owners +of the donkeys, who walked by our sides. As I had never rode any +animal, excepting an elephant, until I landed at Alexandria, I did not +feel perfectly at home on the back of a donkey, and therefore desired +Mohammed, our new servant, to give directions to my attendant to +take especial care of me. These injunctions he obeyed to the letter, +keeping close at my side, and at every rough piece of road putting +one hand on the donkey and the other in front of my waist. I could +not help shrinking from such close contact with a class of persons not +remarkable for cleanliness, either of garment or of skin; but the poor +fellow meant well, and as I had really some occasion for his services, +and his appearance was respectable, I thought it no time to be +fastidious, and could not help laughing at the ridiculous figure I +made. + +We passed some fine buildings and baths; the latter very tempting in +their external appearance, and, according to general repute, excellent +of their kind. When we came to the gate of the wall of Alexandria, we +encountered a funeral procession returning from the cemetery close to +Pompey's Pillar. They were a large party, accompanied by many women, +who, notwithstanding their grief, stopped to gratify their curiosity, +by a minute inspection of our strange persons, and still stranger +garb. We were all huddled together in the gateway, which, the walls +being thick, took a few minutes to pass through, and thus had an +opportunity of a very close examination of each other; the veils of +the women, however, prevented us from scanning their countenances very +distinctly; and as we passed on, we encountered a herd of buffaloes, +animals quite new to Miss E., who had never seen one even as a +zoological specimen. We passed the base of Pompey's Pillar, and +through the burying-grounds; and in another quarter of an hour came +to the banks of the canal, and got on board the boat, which had been +engaged to take us to Atfee. + +In the whole course of my travels, I had never seen any thing so +forlorn and uncomfortable as this boat. The accommodation destined for +us consisted of two cabins, or rather cribs, opening into each other, +and so low in the roof as not to permit a full-grown person to stand +upright in either. Some attempt had been formerly made at painting and +carving, but dirt was now the predominant feature, while the holes and +crannies on every side promised free egress to the vermin, apparently +long tenants of the place. Although certain of remaining the night +upon the canal, we would not suffer our beds to be unpacked; but, +seating ourselves upon our boxes, took up a position near the door, in +order to see as much as possible of the prospect. + +The banks of the canal are very luxuriant; but, lying low, are +infested with insects of various kinds; musquitoes came on board +in clouds, and the flies were, if possible, more tormenting; it is, +therefore, very desirable to get out of this channel as speedily as +possible. We saw the vessel, a fine, large, handsome boat, which +had been mentioned to us as building for the purpose of conveying +passengers to Atfee; consequently, should the political questions now +agitating be amicably settled, and Egypt still continue to be a +high road for travellers to India, the inconveniences of which I now +complain will soon cease to exist. + +We passed some handsome houses, built after the European fashion, one +of which we were told belonged to the Pasha's daughter, the wife of +the dufturdar; it was surrounded by gardens, but had nothing very +imposing in its appearance. We came also upon an encampment of the +Pasha's troops, which consisted of numerous small round tents, huddled +together, without the order displayed by an European army. The men +themselves, though report speaks well of their discipline, had not the +soldierlike look which I had seen and admired in the native troops +of India. The impossibility of keeping their white garments clean, in +such a country as Egypt, is very disadvantageous to their appearance, +and it is unfortunate that something better adapted to withstand +the effects of dust should not have been chosen. The janissary who +accompanied us, and who was clothed in red, had a much more military +air. He was a fine-looking fellow, tall, and well-made; and his dress, +which was very becoming, was formed of fine materials. Our servant +Mohammed had also a pleasing countenance, full of vivacity and good +humour, which we found the general characteristics of the people of +Egypt, especially those immediately above the lower class, and who +enjoyed any degree of comfort. + +There are several varieties of costume worn in Egypt, some consisting +of long gowns or vests worn over the long trowser. The military dress, +which was that worn by the janissary and our servant, is both graceful +and becoming. It is rather difficult to describe the nether garment, +which is wide to the knee, and very full and flowing behind; added to +this, the janissary wore a light pantaloon, descending to the ancle; +but Mohammed, excepting when he encased them in European stockings, +had his legs bare: the waistcoat and jacket fit tight to the shape, +and are of a tasteful cut, and together with a sash and the crimson +cap with a dark blue tassel, almost universal, form a picturesque and +handsome dress. That worn by our servant was made of fine blue +stuff, embroidered, or rather braided, at the edges; and this kind +of ornament is so general, that even some of the poorest fellahs, who +possess but one coarse canvas shirt, will have that garnished with +braiding in some scroll-pattern. + +There was not much to be seen on the banks of the Mahmoudie: here and +there, a priest at his devotions at the water-side, or a few miserable +cottages, diversified the scene. We encountered, however, numerous +boats; and so great was the carelessness of the navigators, that we +had considerable difficulty in preventing a collision, which, but for +the good look-out kept by the janissary, must have happened more +than once. Whenever the breeze permitted, we hoisted a sail; at other +times, the boatmen dragged the boat along; and in this manner we +continued our voyage all night. We regretted much the absence of +moonlight, since, the moment the day closed, all our amusement was at +an end. Cock-roaches, as large as the top of a wine-glass, made +their appearance; we heard the rats squeaking around, and found the +musquitoes more desperate in their attacks than ever. The flies with +one accord went to sleep, settling in such immense numbers on the +ceiling immediately over my head, that I felt tempted to look for a +lucifer-match, and put them all to death. The expectation, however, +of leaving the boat early the next morning, deterred me from this +wholesale slaughter; but I had no mercy on the musquitoes, as, +attracted by the light, they settled on the glasses of the lanthorn. + +It was a long and dismal night, the only accident that occurred +being a concussion, which sent Miss E. and myself flying from our +portmanteaus. We had run foul of another boat, or rather all the +shouting of the Arab lungs on board our vessel had failed to arouse +the sleepers in the craft coming down. At length, the day dawned, +and we tried, by copious ablution and a change of dress, to refresh +ourselves after our sleepless night. + +Finding that we wanted milk for breakfast, we put a little boy, one of +the crew, on shore, in order to procure some at a village; meanwhile, +a breeze sprung up, and we went on at so quick a rate, that we thought +we must have left him behind. Presently, however, we saw the poor +fellow running as fast as possible, but still careful of his pannikin; +and after a time we got him on board. In accomplishing this, the boy +was completely ducked; but whether he was otherwise hurt, or +this catastrophe occurring when out of breath or fatigued with +over-exertion, I do not know; but he began to cry in a more piteous +manner than could be justified by the cause alleged, namely, the +wetting of his only garment, an old piece of sacking. I directed +Mohammed to reward his services with a piastre, a small silver coin +of the value of 2-1/2d.; and never, perhaps, did so trifling a sum +of money produce so great an effect. In one moment, the cries +were hushed, the tears dried, and in the contemplation of his +newly-acquired riches, he lost the recollection of all his troubles. + +It was nearly twelve o'clock in the day before we reached Atfee; and +with all my previous experience of the wretched places inhabited by +human beings, I was surprised by the desolation of the village at +the head of the canal. The houses, if such they might be called, were +huddled upon the side of a cliff; their mud walls, covered on the top +with a few reeds or a little straw, looking like the cliff itself. A +few irregular holes served for doors and windows; but more uncouth, +miserable hovels could not have been seen amongst the wildest savages. +Some of these places I perceived had a small court-yard attached, the +hut being at the end, and only distinguishable by a poor attempt at a +roof, the greater part of which had fallen in. + +We were here obliged to leave our boat; landing on the opposite side +to this village, and walking a short distance, we found ourselves +upon the banks of the Nile. The place was in great confusion, in +consequence of the actual presence of the Pasha, who, for himself +and suite, we were told, had engaged every boat excepting the one +belonging to Mr. Waghorn, in which the mails, entrusted to him, had +been put. As it was impossible that four ladies, for our friends had +now joined us, with their European female servant and the baby, could +be accommodated in this small vessel, we despatched our janissary, +with a letter in the Turkish language to the governor of Atfee, with +which we had been provided at Alexandria, and we were immediately +politely informed that the best boat attainable should be at our +disposal. + +The Pasha had taken up his quarters at a very mean-looking house, and +he soon afterwards made his appearance in front of it. Those who +had not become acquainted with his person by portraits, or other +descriptions, were disappointed at seeing a common-looking man, short +in stature, and very plainly clad, having formed a very different idea +of the sovereign of Egypt. Not having any proper introductions, and +knowing that the Pasha makes a great favour of granting an audience to +European ladies, we made no attempt to address him; thus sacrificing +our curiosity to our sense of decorum. There was of course a great +crowd round the Pasha, and we embarked for the purpose of surveying it +to greater advantage. + +Our boat was moored in front of a narrow strip of ground between the +river and a large dilapidated mansion, having, however, glass windows +in it, which bore the ostentatious title of _Hotel du Mahmoudie._ +This circumscribed space was crowded with camels and their drivers; +great men and their retainers passing to and fro; market people +endeavouring to sell their various commodities, together with a +multitudinous collection of men, dogs, and donkeys. I observed that +all the people surveyed the baby as she was carried through them, in +her native servant's arms, with peculiar benignity. She was certainly +a beautiful specimen of an English infant, and in her pretty white +frock, lace cap, and drawn pink silk bonnet, would have attracted +attention anywhere; such an apparition the people now assembled +at Atfee had probably never seen before, and they were evidently +delighted to look at her. She was equally pleased, crowing and +spreading out her little arms to all who approached her. + +The smallness of the boat rendered it necessary that I should open +one of my portmanteaus, and take out a supply of clothes before it was +sent away; while thus occupied, I found myself overlooked by two or +three respectably-clad women, who were in a boat, with several men, +alongside. I did not, of course, understand what they said, but by +their gestures guessed that they were asking for some of the strange +things which they saw. I had nothing that I could well spare, or that +I thought would be useful to them, excepting a paper of needles, which +I put into one of their hands, through the window of the cabin. The +envelope being flourished over with gold, they at first thought that +there was nothing more to be seen, but being directed by signs to +open it, they were in ecstasy at the sight of the needles, which they +proceeded forthwith to divide. + +We now pushed off, and found that, in the narrow limits to which we +were confined, we must only retain our carpet-bags and dressing-cases. +The small cabin which occupies the stern was surrounded on three sides +with lockers, which formed seats, but which were too narrow to hold +our beds; moveable planks, of different dimensions, to suit the shape +of the boat, fitted in, making the whole flush when requisite, and +forming a space amply wide enough for our mattresses, but in which +we could not stand upright. To our great joy, we found the whole +extremely clean, and in perfect repair, so that we could easily submit +to the minor evils that presented themselves. + +We had found Mohammed very active, attentive, and ready in the +departments in which we had hitherto employed him, but we were +now about to put his culinary abilities to the test. He spoke very +tolerable English, but surprised us a little by inquiring whether we +should like an Irish stew for dinner. A fowl was killed and picked in +a trice, and Mohammed had all his own way, excepting with regard to +the onions, which were, in his opinion, woefully restricted. A fowl +stewed with butter and potatoes, and garnished with boiled eggs, is +no bad thing, especially when followed by a dessert of fresh dates, +grapes, and pomegranates. A clerk of Mr. Waghorn's, an European, who +had the charge of the mails, went up in the boat with us; but as we +could not possibly afford him any accommodation in our cabin, his +situation at the prow must have been very uncomfortable. He was +attended by a servant; there were ten or twelve boatmen, which, +together with Mohammed and the janissary, completely crowded the deck, +so that it was impossible for them all to lie down at full length. + +I have not said a word about the far-famed river, which I had so long +and so anxiously desired to see; the late inundations had filled it +to the brim, consequently it could not have been viewed at a more +favourable period; but I was dreadfully disappointed. In a flat +country, like Lower Egypt, I had not expected any thing beyond +luxuriance of vegetation; but my imagination had been excited by ideas +of groves of palms. I found the date trees so thinly scattered, as to +be quite insignificant as a feature in the scene, and except when we +came to a village, there were no other. + +The wind being strong, we got on at first at a rapid rate, and as we +carried a press of sail, the boat lay over completely, as to put the +gunwale (as I believe it is called) in the water. We looked eagerly +out, pleased when we saw some illustration of old customs with which +the Bible had made us acquainted, or when the janissary, who was +an intelligent person, pointed to a Bedouin on the banks. Miss E. +flattered herself that she had caught sight of a crocodile, and as she +described the huge jaws of some creature gaping out of the water, +I thought that she was right, and envied her good fortune: however, +afterwards, being assured that crocodiles never make their appearance +below Cairo, I was convinced that, unaccustomed to see animals +belonging to the Bovine group in a foreign element, she had taken +the head of a buffalo emerging from the river, for one of the classic +monsters of the flood. When weary of looking out, without seeing any +thing but sky and water, and a few palm trees, I amused myself with +reading Wordsworth, and thus the day passed away. + +When evening came, we seated ourselves in front of the cabin, outside, +to enjoy the sunset, and after our loss of rest on the preceding +night, slept very comfortably. The next morning at noon, we had +accomplished half the distance to Cairo, having some time passed every +boat we saw upon the river. Arriving at a village, Mr. Waghorn's agent +determined upon going on shore, and carrying the mails on the backs of +donkeys, in order to ensure their arrival at Suez time enough to +meet the steamer. He had been assured that we had passed the boat +containing the Government mails in the night, but had not been able to +ascertain the fact himself. I think it necessary to mention this, as +a proof of the indefatigable endeavours made by Mr. Waghorn to ensure +the speediest method of transit. + +As the people had worked very hard, we directed Mohammed to purchase +some meat for them in the bazaar, in order that they might indulge in +a good meal; we also took the opportunity of purchasing a supply of +eggs, fowls, and fruit, lest we should fall short before we reached +Cairo. The fowls were so small, that, having our appetites sharpened +by the fresh air of the river, we could easily manage one between us +for breakfast, and another at dinner. We did not make trial of the +unfiltered waters of the Nile, not drinking it until it had deposited +its mud. Though previously informed that no beverage could be +more delightful than that afforded by this queen of rivers in its +unsophisticated state, I did not feel at all tempted to indulge; but +am quite ready to do justice to its excellence when purified from the +grosser element. + +We were much pleased with the alacrity and good humour of our boatmen, +and the untiring manner in which they performed their laborious +duties. When a favouring breeze allowed them to rest, they seldom +indulged in sleep, but, sitting round in a ring upon the narrow deck, +either told stories, or were amused by the dancing of one of the +group, who, without changing his place, contrived to shift his feet +very vigorously to the music of his own voice, and that of two sticks +struck together to keep the time. They frequently used their oars in +parts of the river where they could not find a towing-path, and when +rowing, invariably accompanied their labours with a song, which, +though rude, was not unpleasant. The breeze, which had hitherto +favoured us, dying away, the poor fellows were obliged to work +harder than ever, dragging the boat up against the stream: upon these +occasions, however, we enjoyed a very agreeable degree of quietude, +and were, moreover, enabled to take a more accurate survey of the +river's banks. Living objects were not numerous, excepting in the +immediate vicinity of the villages. I was delighted when I caught +sight of an ibis, but was surprised at the comparatively small +number of birds; having been accustomed to the immense flocks which +congregate on the banks of Indian rivers. + +Our arrival at a village alone relieved the monotony of the landscape. +Some of these places were prettily situated under groves of dates +and wild fig trees, and they occasionally boasted houses of a decent +description; the majority were, however, most wretched, and we were +often surprized to see persons respectably dressed, and mounted upon +good-looking donkeys, emerge from streets and lanes leading to the +most squalid and poverty-stricken dwellings imaginable. The arrival of +a boat caused all the beggars to hasten down to the river-side; +these chiefly consisted of very old or blind persons. We had provided +ourselves with paras, a small copper coin, for the purpose of giving +alms to the miserable beings who solicited our charity, and the poor +creatures always went away well satisfied with the trifling gift +bestowed upon them. + +Every morning, the janissary and the Arab captain of the boat came to +the door of the cabin to pay their respects; with the latter we could +not hold much communication, as he did not speak a word of English; we +were, nevertheless, excellent friends. He was very good-humoured, +and we were always laughing, so that a bond of union was established +between us. He had once or twice come into such close contact with +some of our crockery-ware, as to put me in a fright, and the comic +look, with which he showed that he was aware of the mischief he had +nearly done, amused me excessively. He was evidently a wag, and from +the moment in which he discovered the congeniality of our feelings, +when any droll incident occurred, he was sure to look at us and laugh. + +The janissary spoke very tolerable English, and after sunset, when we +seated ourselves outside the cabin-door, he came forward and entered +into conversation. He told us that a quarrel having taken place +between the boatmen of a small vessel and the people of a village, the +former came on board in great numbers in the night, and murdered six +of the boatmen; and that on the affair being represented to the Pasha, +he sent three hundred soldiers to the village, and razed it to the +ground. He said that he had been in the service of several English +gentlemen, and had once an opportunity of going to England with a +captain in the navy, but that his mother was alive at that time, and +when he mentioned his wishes to her, she cried, and therefore he +could not go. The captain had told him that he would always repent not +having taken his offer; but though he wished to see England, he was +glad he had not grieved his mother. He had been at Malta, but had +taken a dislike to the Maltese, in consequence of a wrong he had +received, as a stranger, upon his landing. + +Amongst the noblemen and gentlemen whom he had served, he mentioned +the Marquess of Waterford. We asked him what sort of a person he was, +and he immediately replied, "A young devil." Mohammed, who had been +in various services with English travellers, expressed a great desire +to go to England; he said, that if he could once get there, he would +"never return to this dirty country." Both he and the janissary +apparently had formed magnificent ideas of the wealth of Great +Britain, from the lavish manner in which the English are accustomed to +part with their money while travelling. + +We inquired of Mohammed concerning the magician, whose exploits Mr. +Lane and other authors have recorded. At first, he did not understand +what we meant; but, upon further explanation, told us that he thought +the whole an imposture. He said, that when a boy, about the age of the +Arab captain's son, who was on board, he was in the service of a lady +who wished to witness the exhibition, and who selected him as the +medium of communication, because she said that she knew he would +tell her the truth. The ceremonies, therefore, commenced; but though +anxiously looking into the magic mirror, he declared that he saw +nothing: afterwards, he continued, "A boy was called out of the +bazaar, who saw all that the man told him." But while Mohammed +expressed his entire disbelief in the power of this celebrated person, +he was not devoid of the superstition of his creed and country, for +he told us that he knew of another who really did wonderful things. He +then asked us what we had called the Mughreebee whom we had described +to him: we replied, a magician; and he and the janissary repeated +the word over many times, in order to make themselves thoroughly +acquainted with it. In all cases, they were delighted with the +acquisition of a new word, and were very thankful to me when I +corrected their pronunciation. Thus, when the janissary showed me what +he called _kundergo_, growing in the fields, and explained that it +made a blue dye, and I told him that we called it _indigo_, he never +rested until he had learned the word, which he repeated to Mohammed +and Mohammed to him. I never met with two more intelligent men in +their rank of life, or persons who would do greater credit to their +teachers; and brief as has been my intercourse with the Egyptians, I +feel persuaded, that a good method of imparting knowledge is all that +is wanting to raise them in the scale of nations. + +During our progress up the river, I had been schooling myself, +and endeavouring to keep down my expectations, lest I should be +disappointed at the sight of the Pyramids. We were told that we should +see them at the distance of five-and-thirty miles; and when informed +that they were in view, my heart beat audibly as I threw open the +cabin door, and beheld them gleaming in the sun, pure and bright +as the silvery clouds above them. Far from being disappointed, the +vastness of their dimensions struck me at once, as they rose in +lonely majesty on the bare plain, with nothing to detract from their +grandeur, or to afford, by its littleness, a point of comparison. +We were never tired of gazing upon these noble monuments of an age +shrouded in impenetrable mystery. They were afterwards seen at less +advantage, in consequence of the intervention of some rising ground; +but from all points they created the strongest degree of interest. + +We had a magnificent thunder-storm just as it was growing dark, and +the red lightning lit up the pyramids, which came out, as it were, +from the black masses of clouds behind them, while the broad waters +of the Nile assumed a dark and troubled aspect. The scene was sublime, +but of short duration; for the tempest speedily rolled off down the +river; when, accompanied by a squall and heavy rain, it caught several +boats, which were obliged to put into the shore. We did not experience +the slightest inconvenience; and though the latter part of the voyage +had been protracted from want of wind, arrived at the port of Boulak +at half-past nine on the second evening of our embarkation. + + + + +CHAPTER V. + + * * * * * + +CAIRO. + + * * * * * + + Arrival at Boulak--Description of the place--Moolid, or Religious + Fair--Surprise of the People--The Hotel at Cairo--Description of + the City--The Citadel--View from thence--The City--The + Shops--The Streets--The interior of the Pasha's + Palace--Pictures--Furniture--Military Band--Affray between a Man and + Woman--Indifference of the Police to Street Broils--Natives beaten + by Englishmen--Visit to an English Antiquary--By-ways of + the City--Interior of the Houses--Nubian + Slave-market--Gypsies--Preparations for Departure to Suez--Mode + of driving in the Streets of Cairo--Leave the City--The Changes in + travelling in Egypt--Attractions of Cairo. + + +It was half-past nine o'clock, on the evening of the 4th of October, +1839, that we arrived at the port of Boulak. We expected to find some +person in waiting to give us the pass-word, and thus enable us to +get into Cairo, the gates of the city being closed at nine o'clock. +Depending upon the attendance of the hotel-keeper at Cairo, who had +been apprised of our approach, we had not put the janissary on shore, +as we ought to have done, at the British Consul's country-house, who +would have furnished us with a talisman to pass the gates. We sent +Mohammed and the janissary on shore, to see what could be done. +Including the voyage up the canal, Miss E. and myself had passed (we +could not say slept) three nights on board a boat, the first without +an attempt at repose, the two latter lying down in our dressing-gowns +upon thin mattresses, stretched upon hard boards; we, therefore, could +not very easily relinquish the endeavour to procure a bed during +the time which would intervene between the period (an hour before +day-light) in which the gates of the city would be open. + +I had a letter to the British Consul, which I gave Mohammed, telling +him to try the effect of bribery upon the guardians of the city. +During his absence, the Arab captain, feeling that we were left +under his protection, came and seated himself beside us, outside the +cabin-door. We conversed together without understanding each other's +language; he had nothing to offer us except snuff, of which we each +took a pinch, giving him in return, as he refused wine, a pomegranate, +to which I added a five-franc piece from the remains of my French +money. If any thing had been wanting to establish a good understanding +between us, this would have accomplished it. The rais, or captain, +took my hand in his, and pressed his own to his lips, in token of +gratitude; and when upon the return of Mohammed he perceived that I +was rather nervous at the idea of crossing the plank from the boat to +the shore, he plunged at once into the water to assist me over it. +The janissary brought word that there was a moolid, or religious fair, +held at the opposite end of the city, and that if we would make a +circuit of three miles round the walls, we might enter Cairo that +night, as the gate was left open for the convenience of the people +in the neighbourhood. Mohammed had aroused a donkey-man of his +acquaintance, who was in attendance, with a youth his son, and two +donkeys. To the boy was entrusted the care of the lanthorn, without +which no person is allowed to traverse the streets after nightfall, +and mounting, we set forward. + +The streets of Boulak are narrow, but the houses appear to be lofty +and substantially built. We were challenged by the soldiers at the +gates, but allowed to pass without farther inquiry. The ride round +the walls at night was dreary enough, over broken ground, occupied +by bandogs barking at us as we passed. We met occasionally groups of +people coming from the fair, who gave us the welcome intelligence that +the gates were still open, and, pushing on, we came at length to the +entrance, an archway of some magnitude. Upon turning an angle of this +wall, we suddenly emerged upon a very singular scene. The tomb of +the saint, in whose honour the moolid was held, was surrounded by +devotees, engaged in the performance of some religious rite. Around, +and in front, throughout the neighbouring streets, gleamed a strong +illumination, produced by an assemblage of lamps and lanthorns +of various kinds. Some of the shops boasted handsome cut-glass +chandeliers, or Argand lamps, evidently of European manufacture; +others were content with a circular frame, perforated with holes, +in which all sorts of glass vessels, wine-glasses, tumblers, +mustard-pots, &c., were placed, filled with oil, and having several +wicks. + +The articles displayed for sale at the fair were, as far as we could +judge from the hasty glances we cast as we passed along, good of +their kind, and of some value; the confectioners' shops made a gay +appearance with their variously-coloured sweetmeats, piled up in +tempting heaps, and we saw enough of embroidery and gold to form a +very favourable idea of the taste and splendour of the native dress. + +We were, of course, objects of great surprise and curiosity; the +sudden appearance of two European ladies, the only women present, at +eleven o'clock at night, riding on donkeys through the fair, could not +fail to create a sensation. Our boy with the lanthorn walked first, +followed by the janissary, who, flourishing his silver stick, made +room for us through the crowd. Had we not been accompanied by this +respectable official, we should scarcely have dared to venture in such +a place, and at such a period. Mohammed and the donkey-man attended +at the side of Miss E. and myself, and though some of the people could +not help laughing at the oddity of our appearance, we met with no +sort of insult or hinderance, but made our way through without the +slightest difficulty, much more easily, in fact, than two Arabs in +their native costume, even if attended by a policeman, would have +traversed a fair in England. + +The scene was altogether very singular, and we thought ourselves +fortunate in having had an opportunity of witnessing a native fair +under such novel circumstances. We could scarcely believe that we were +in a Mohammedan city, noted for its intolerance, and could not help +feeling grateful to the reigning power which had produced so striking +a change in the manners and conduct of the people. Upon leaving the +fair, we turned into dark streets, dimly illumined by the light of the +lanthorn we carried; occasionally, but very seldom, we met some +grave personage, preceded also by a lanthorn, who looked with great +astonishment at our party as we passed. At length we came to the door +of our hotel, and having knocked loudly, we were admitted into the +court-yard, when, dismounting, we proceeded up a flight of stone steps +to a verandah, which led into some very good-sized apartments. The +principal one, a large dining-room, was furnished at the upper end +in the Egyptian fashion, with divans all round; it was, however, also +well supplied with European chairs and tables, and in a few minutes +cold turkey and ham, and other good things, appeared upon the board. + +Being the first arrivals from the steamer, we had to answer numerous +questions before we could retire to bed. Upon asking to be conducted +to our chamber, we were shown up another flight of stone stairs, +leading to a second and much larger verandah, which was screened off +in departments serving as ante-chambers to the bed-rooms. There was +sufficient space on the terraces of this floor, for the descent of a +few steps led to another platform, to afford a walk of some extent, +but of this we were not aware until the morning. We found a very +comfortable two-bedded room, supplied with glass windows, and +everything belonging to it in excellent repair, and apparently free +from vermin; most thankfully did we lie down to enjoy the repose which +our late exertions had rendered so needful. + +Our trusty Mohammed had engaged donkeys for us the next day, and +promised to take us to every place worth seeing in the city. We were +strongly tempted to visit the Pyramids, but were deterred by the +danger of losing the steamer at Suez, and by the difficulties of the +undertaking. We were told that the Nile was not sufficiently flooded +to admit of our approach in a boat, and that we should be up to the +donkey's knees in mud if we attempted to go upon the backs of those +animals. We, therefore, reluctantly relinquished the idea, and +contented ourselves with what we could see of Cairo. + +Our first visit was directed to the Citadel, a place which, I do not +scruple to say, was to me quite as interesting as any of the monuments +of ancient art that Egypt contains. The remains of ages long past, and +whose history is involved in unfathomable obscurity, excite our wonder +and admiration, and fill us with an almost painful curiosity to draw +aside the veil which time has thrown around them, and to learn secrets +that all the learning of man has hitherto been unable to unfold. +The citadel of Cairo, on the contrary, has been the theatre of +comparatively recent events; it is filled with recollections of the +hero whose exploits, narrated by the most eloquent pens, have charmed +us in our childhood, and still continue to excite interest in our +breasts--the Sultan Saladin. Here are the remains of a palace which he +once inhabited, and here is a well which bears his name. Who could sit +under the broken pillars of that roofless palace, or drink the water +from the deep recesses of that well, without allowing their thoughts +to wander back to the days of the Crusades, those chivalric times, in +which love, and war, and religion, swayed the hearts and the actions +of men; when all that was honoured and coveted was to be found in a +soldier of the cross, and when half-frantic enthusiasts, pursuing the +vainest of hopes, the recovery of the Holy Land, brought away with +them what they did not go to seek, the arts, and learning, and science +of the East! The janissary, who was with us, pointed out the direction +in which Damietta now stands, and I was instantly filled with a desire +to see Damietta, of which I had heard and read so much. + +The most exciting romance of Oriental history is to be found amid the +deserts that surround Egypt; and even if the most spirit-stirring tale +of all, the _Talisman_, had not been written, the scenes in which our +own lion-hearted Richard figured, and which witnessed the exploits of +the Templars and the knights of St. John of Jerusalem, could not fail +to create the highest degree of pleasurable feeling in minds capable +of enjoying such brilliant reveries of the past. The Citadel of Cairo +is also fraught with the recollections of an event which startled +all Europe within the memory of many of the present generation--the +massacre of the Mamelukes. We were shown the broken cleft in the +wall from which the only one of the devoted men who escaped urged his +gallant horse; it was, indeed, a fearful leap, and we gazed upon, +the spot and thought of the carnage of that dreadful hour with an +involuntary shudder. + +The Citadel of Cairo has less the air of a regular fortification than +any place of arms I ever recollect to have entered; it is, however, +I believe, exceedingly strong by nature, the situation being very +commanding. I regretted that I could not look upon these things with +a professional eye, and that I had no military authority at hand to +refer to. Near to the ruins of Saladin's palace, the Pasha is now +constructing a mosque, which, when finished, will be one of the most +splendid temples of the kind in all the Moslem land. It is to be lined +and faced with marble, very elegantly carved, but it will take three +years to complete it, and should any circumstances occur to delay the +work during the lifetime of the present ruler of Egypt, the chances +seem much in favour of its never being completed at all. Mounting on +the embrasure of one of the guns, I feasted my eyes upon one of the +finest and most interesting views I had ever beheld. The city, with +its minarets, towers, kiosks, and stately palm-trees, lay at my feet, +displaying, by its extent, the solidity, loftiness, and magnificence +of its buildings, its title to the proud name of "Grand Cairo." +Beyond, in one wide flood of silver, flowed the Nile, extending far as +the eye could reach along a plain verdant with its fertilizing waters. +To the left, the tombs of the caliphs spread themselves over a desert +waste, looking, indeed, like a city of the dead. These monuments, +though not equalling in size and grandeur the tombs which we find in +India, are very striking; they are for the most part surmounted by +cupolas, raised upon lofty pillars, with the spaces open between. Upon +one of these buildings we were shown a vessel in the form of a boat, +which upon a certain festival is filled with grain and water, for the +service of the birds. + +The Pyramids, which rise beyond the City of Tombs, are not seen to +advantage from this point, an intervening ridge of sand cutting off +the bases, and presenting the pinnacles only to view; but the whole of +the landscape, under the clear bright atmosphere of an Egyptian sky, +is of so exquisite a nature, that the eye can never tire of it, and +had I been detained as a prisoner in the Pasha's dominions, I might +have become reconciled to my fate, had I been confined in a situation +which commanded this splendid prospect. + +About the middle of the day we again sallied forth, the streets of +Cairo being so narrow that the sun is completely shut out, and shade +thus afforded at noon. The air was not unpleasantly warm, and we +suffered no inconvenience, excepting from the crowd. Mounted upon +donkeys, we pushed our way through a dense throng, thrusting aside +loaded camels, which scarcely allowed us room to pass, and coming +into the closest contact with all sorts of people. The perusal of +Mr. Lane's book had given me a very vivid idea of the interior of the +city, though I was scarcely prepared to mingle thus intimately with +its busy multitude. + +We had some shopping to execute, or rather we had to pay for some +purchases made by Mohammed for us in the morning, and to return that +portion of the goods sent for inspection that we did not intend to +keep. We liked the appearance of the shops, which, in all cases of the +more respectable kind, were well stocked, whole streets being devoted +to the sale of one particular branch of merchandize. A long avenue +was occupied by saddlers and the sellers of horse-furniture; another +displayed nothing but woollen cloths; a third was devoted to weapons +of every description, &c. &c. The wax-chandlers reminded me very much +of those in England, being decorated in a similar manner, while the +display of goods everywhere was much greater than I had ever seen in +Eastern cities, in which for the most part merchandize of the best +description is hidden in warehouses, and not to be found without deep +research. + +The greater number of the streets are covered in with matting in +rather a dilapidated state, and having many holes and crevices for the +admission of air; this gives to the whole a ragged appearance, and we +were told that the Pasha had determined not to allow in future awnings +of these frail and unsightly materials. The Frank quarter, which is +much better contrived, is the model for subsequent erections. This +avenue has a roof of wood sufficiently high to allow of a free +circulation of air, and having apertures, at regular distances near +the top, to admit the light. The streets in this part of Cairo are +wider than usual, and the shops appear to be large and convenient. + +All sorts of European manufactures are to be found here, for the most +part at reasonable prices. The gentlemen who proposed to cross the +desert purchased Leghorn hats of very good quality, and admirably +adapted, from their size, lightness, and durability, for Indian wear. +Wearied, at length, with the confusion and bustle of the streets, +we took again the road to the Citadel, being exceedingly desirous to +feast our eyes with the sunset view. + +After gazing long and earnestly upon a scene which, once beheld, can +never be forgotten, we gladly accepted the offer of Mohammed to +show us into the interior of the Pasha's palace, a large irregular +building, having no great pretensions to architectural beauty, and +mingling rather oddly the European with the Oriental style. Ascending +a broad flight of steps, we passed through a large kind of guard-room +to the state-apartments. These were of rather a singular description, +but handsome and well adapted to the climate. A third portion, +consisting of the front and part of the two sides of each room, was +entirely composed of windows, opening a few feet from the ground, +and having a divan running round, furnished in the usual manner with +pillows at the back. The windows of some of these apartments opened +upon gardens, laid out in the English taste and full of English +flowers; others commanded the finest prospects of the city and the +open space below. Round these rooms, at the top, forming a sort +of cornice, were pictures in compartments or panels, one series +consisting of views of the Pasha's palaces and gardens, another of the +vessels of war which belong to him, and more especially his favourite +steam-boat, of which there are many delineations. There is nothing +that more strongly exhibits the freedom with which Mehemet Ali has +thrown off the prejudices of the Moslem religion, than his permitting, +contrary to its established principles, the representation of objects +natural and artificial, which, both in painting and sculpture, is +strictly forbidden. Much cannot be said for the execution of these +pictures, which seem to have been the work of a native artist; but +they become exceedingly interesting as proofs of the decline of a +religion so completely opposed to the spread of knowledge, and to all +improvement in the moral condition of its followers. + +The furniture in the Pasha's palace, though in a great measure limited +to carpets and cushions, is very handsome. The divans are covered with +rich brocade, figured satin, damask, or cut velvet. The attendants +drew aside, with great pride, the curtains which concealed the +looking-glasses, evidently fancying that we had never beheld mirrors +of such magnitude in our lives. I observed that the chandeliers in +some of the apartments did not match each other, but the whole was +very creditable to the taste and spirit of the owner. Below them was a +handsome apartment entirely lined with marble, and apparently designed +as a retreat for the hot weather, the floor being divided into two +parts--the one ascended by a step, in which the family might repose +upon cushions; the other scooped into basins, with a fountain to play +in the centre: the water either had not as yet been laid on, or the +season did not render it necessary. Near to this apartment was +the Pasha's bed-chamber, a fine room, also lined with marble, and +containing a fire-place, which in the warm weather revolved upon a +pivot, and was concealed in a recess made on purpose in the wall. The +bathing-rooms, close at hand, were of the most beautiful description, +the principal apartment and the antechamber having roofs which might +serve as models for all erections of the kind. These were fretted +in small compartments, light being admitted by a thick piece of +ground-glass in the centre of each, thus securing the utmost privacy, +together with one of the most beautiful methods of lighting possible. + +While we were still sitting in the Pasha's palace, the military band +of the garrison began to play upon the parade-ground immediately +below. Mohammed, who seemed to be quite at home, conducted us to an +apartment which overlooked this space, opened one of the windows, and +requested us to seat ourselves upon the cushions, where we remained +for some time, listening to the well-known French airs played in the +court-yard of the palace of a Turkish prince! The band was not a +very large one, but the performers had been well-taught, and the +wind-instruments produced in such a situation a very animating effect. +They marched up and down the parade-ground, occasionally relieved by +the drums and fifes also playing French music. The performers were +clothed in white, like the men belonging to the ranks, and had the +same soiled appearance, it being impossible to keep white garments +pure in the dust of Egyptian cities. + +The sun was now completely down, and we returned to our hotel, where, +to our great joy, we found our two female friends, who had not been +able to reach Boulak until many hours after our landing. We +had ordered dinner at seven o'clock, in the hope that our +fellow-passengers in the steamer would come up, and according to our +calculations, several dropped in. The possibility of getting to the +Pyramids was again discussed; the greater number of the gentlemen +determined at least to try, but we thought it best to avoid all danger +of missing the _Berenice_, and the ladies, adhering to their original +intention, determined to cross the desert together. We passed a most +agreeable evening, telling over our voyage up the Nile, and upon +retiring to my chamber, I regretted that it would be the last I should +for some time spend in Cairo. + +Nothing can be more quiet than the nights in a city where all the +inhabitants retire after dark to their own homes, the streets being +perambulated by few persons, and those of the soberest description; +but with the sun, a scene of bustle and noise ensues, which +effectually prevents repose. The windows of my apartment looked out +upon a narrow street, in which the ground-floors were, as it is usual, +composed of shops, while several persons, having vegetables or grain +to sell, were seated upon the ground. The hum of human voices, +the grunting of the camels, and the braying of donkeys, kept up an +incessant din, and therefore some minutes elapsed before my attention +was attracted by a wordy war which took place beneath my window. +Hastily arraying myself in my dressing-gown, and looking out, I saw a +man and woman engaged in some vehement discussion, but whether caused +by a dispute or not, I could not at first decide. They both belonged +to the lower class, and the woman was meanly dressed in a blue +garment, with a hood of the same over her head, her face being +concealed by one of those hideous narrow black veils, fastened across +under the eyes, which always reminded me of the proboscis of an +elephant. Her hands were clasped upon the arms of the man just above +the elbow, who held her in the same manner, and several people were +endeavouring to part them, as they struggled much in the same manner +which prevails in a melodrame, when the hero and heroine are about +to be separated by main force. I thought it, therefore, probable that +they were a loving couple, about to be torn asunder by the myrmidons +of the law. Presently, however, I was set right upon this point, for +the man, seizing a kind of whip, which is generally carried in Cairo, +and flogging off his friends, dashed the poor creature on the ground, +and inflicted several severe strokes upon her prostrate body, not one +of the by-standers attempting to prevent him. The woman, screaming +fearfully, jumped up, and seizing him again, as if determined to gain +her point, whatever it might be, poured forth a volley of words, and +again the man threw her upon the ground and beat her most cruelly, the +spectators remaining, as before, quite passive, and allowing him to +wreak his full vengeance upon her. + +Had I been dressed, or could I have made my way readily into the +street, I should have certainly gone down to interpose, for never did +I witness any scene so horrible, or one I so earnestly desired to +put an end to. At length, though the pertinacity of the woman was +astonishing, when exhausted by blows, she lay fainting on the ground, +the man went his way. The spectators, and there were many, who looked +on without any attempt to rescue this poor creature from her savage +assailant, now raised her from the earth. The whole of this time, the +veil she wore was never for a moment displaced, and but for the brutal +nature of the scene, it would have been eminently ridiculous in the +eyes of a stranger. After crying and moaning for some time, in the +arms of her supporters, the woman, whom I now found to be a vender of +vegetables in the street, told her sad tale to all the passers-by +of her acquaintance, with many tears and much gesticulation, but at +length seated herself quietly down by her baskets, though every bone +in her body must have ached from the severe beating she had received. +This appeared to me to be a scene for the interference of the police, +who, however, do not appear to trouble themselves about the protection +of people who may be assaulted in the street. + +I afterwards saw a drunken Englishman, an officer of the Indian +army, I am sorry to say, beat several natives of Cairo, with whom +he happened to come in contact in the crowd, in the most brutal and +unprovoked manner, and yet no notice was taken, and no complaint +made. It was certainly something very unexpected to me to see a Frank +Christian maltreating the Moslem inhabitants of a Moslem city in which +he was a stranger, and I regretted exceedingly that the perpetrator +of acts, which brought disgrace upon his character and country, should +have been an Englishman, or should have escaped punishment. No sooner +have we been permitted to traverse a country in which formerly it was +dangerous to appear openly as a Christian, than we abuse the privilege +thus granted by outrages on its most peaceable inhabitants. I regret +to be obliged to add, that it is but too commonly the habit, of +Englishmen to beat the boat-men, donkey-men, and others of the poorer +class, whom they may engage in their service. They justify this +cowardly practice--cowardly, because the poor creatures can gain no +redress--by declaring that there is no possibility of getting them to +stir excepting by means of the whip; but, in most cases, all that I +witnessed, they were not at the trouble of trying fairer methods: +at once enforcing their commands by blows. The comments made by the +janissary and our own servant upon those who were guilty of such +wanton brutality showed the feeling which it elicited; and when upon +one occasion Miss E. and myself interposed, declaring that we would +not allow any person in our service to be beaten, they told us not to +be alarmed, for that the rais (captain of the boat), who was an Arab, +would not put up with ill-treatment, but had threatened to go on shore +at the next village with all his men. + +An English gentleman, long resident in Cairo, had done me the honour +to call upon me on the day after my arrival, and had invited me to +come to his house, to see some mummies and other curiosities he had +collected. Accompanied by two of my female friends, and escorted by a +gentleman who was well acquainted with the topography of the city, +we set out on foot, traversing blind alleys and dark lanes, and thus +obtaining a better idea of the intricacies of the place than we could +possibly have gained by any other means. Sometimes we passed under +covered ways perfectly dark, which I trod, not without fear of +arousing some noxious animal; then we came to narrow avenues, between +the backs of high stone houses, occasionally emerging into small +quadrangles, having a single tree in one corner. We passed a house +inhabited by one of the superior description of Frank residents, +and we knew that it must be tenanted by a European by the handsome +curtains and other furniture displayed through its open windows. +Turning into a street, for the very narrow lanes led chiefly along +the backs of houses, we looked into the lower apartments, the doors of +which were usually unclosed, and here we saw the men at their +ordinary occupations, and were made acquainted with their domestic +arrangements. At length we arrived at a court, which displayed a door +and a flight of steps at the corner. Upon knocking, we were admitted +by an Egyptian servant, who showed us up stairs into a room, where we +found the master of the house seated upon one of the low stools which +serve as the support of the dinner-trays in Egypt, the only other +furniture that the room contained being a table, and the customary +divan, which extended all round. Coffee was brought in, served in +small China cups; but all the coffee made in Egypt was too like the +Nile mud for me to taste, and warm and fatigued with a walk through +places from which the fresh air was excluded, I felt myself unequal +to make the trial now. + +Our friend's collection of antiquities appeared to be very valuable; +but I had been at the opening of a mummy-case before, and though +interested by the different articles which his researches had brought +to light, was more so in the examination of his house. It was very +oddly arranged, according to the ideas formed in Europe, many of the +rooms looking like lanthorns, in consequence of their having windows +on the stairs and passages, as well as to the street. This was +probably caused by a desire to secure a free circulation of air, but +it at the same time destroyed every idea of privacy, and therefore +looked exceedingly uncomfortable. There were glass-windows to several +of the apartments, but the house exhibited considerable quantities of +that wooden trellice-work, represented in Mr. Lane's book. Nothing, +indeed, can be more accurate than his descriptions; the English +inhabitants of Cairo say that, reading it upon the spot, they cannot +detect a single error; the designs are equally faithful, and those who +study the work carefully may acquire the most correct notion of the +city and its inhabitants. + +The apartments at the top of the house opened, as usual, upon a rather +extensive terrace or court, but the surrounding wall was too high to +admit of any prospect; both here, and in a similar place at our hotel, +persons walking about could neither see their neighbours nor be seen +by them. We, therefore, gained nothing by climbing so high, and I was +disappointed at not obtaining any view of the city. I tried in each +place to make acquaintance with an Egyptian cat, but I found the +animal too shy. I noticed several, which seemed to be domestic pets; +they were fine-looking creatures of the kind, and I fancied larger +than the common English cat, but the difference, if existing at all, +was very slight. I returned home, so much fatigued with my walk, as +to be unable to go out again, especially as we were to start at four +o'clock for the desert. + +Two of the ladies of the party, not having completed their purchases +at the bazaars, went out upon a shopping excursion, and passing near +the Nubian slave-market, were induced to enter. Christians are not +admitted to the place in which Circassian women are sold, and can +only obtain entrance by assuming the Turkish dress and character. My +friends were highly interested in one woman, who sat apart from the +rest, apparently plunged into the deepest melancholy; the others +manifested little sorrow at their condition, which was not, perhaps, +in reality, changed for the worse: all eagerly scrambled for some +pieces of money which the visitors threw amongst them, and the +sight was altogether too painful for Christian ladies to desire to +contemplate long. + +They were much more amused by some gipsies, who were anxious to show +their skill in the occult science. Upon the morning after our arrival, +Miss E., who was always the first upon the alert, accepted the escort +of a gentleman, who conducted her to a neighbouring shop; while making +some purchases, a gipsy came and seated herself opposite, and by way +of showing her skill, remarked that the lady was a stranger to Cairo, +and had a companion, also of her own sex, who pretended to be a +friend, but who would prove treacherous. + +As we had ridden through the fair together on the preceding evening, +it did not require any great effort of art to discover that two Frank +ladies had arrived at Cairo; but in speaking of treachery, the gipsy +evidently wished to pique the curiosity of my friend, and tempt her to +make further inquiry. Much to my regret, she did not take any notice +of the fortune-teller, whose words had been repeated by the gentleman +who had accompanied her, and who was well acquainted with the language +in which they were spoken. I should like to have had a specimen of the +talents of a modern scion of this race, in the country in which the +learned have decided that the tribe, now spread over the greater part +of the world, originated. + +The arrival of the _Berenice_ at Suez had been reported the evening +before, and the mails had been brought to Cairo in the coarse of +the night. All was, therefore, bustle and confusion in our hotel; +gentlemen hourly arriving from the Nile, where they had been delayed +by squalls and contrary winds, or snatching a hasty meal before they +posted off to the Pyramids. Our camels and donkeys had been laden +and despatched to the outskirts of the city, to which we were to be +conveyed in a carriage. + +I had observed in the court-yard of the hotel an English-built +equipage, of the britschka fashion, with a dark-coloured hood, for, +whatever might have been its original tint, it had assumed the +common hue of Egypt; and I found that two spirited horses were to be +harnessed to the vehicle, which was dragged out into the street for +our accommodation. A gentleman volunteered his services as coachman, +promising that he would drive carefully, and we accordingly got in, +a party of four, taking the baby along with us. Although the horses +kicked and plunged a little, I did not fancy that we could be in any +danger, as it was impossible for them to run away with us through +streets so narrow as scarcely to be passable, neither could we have +very easily been upset. I, therefore, hoped to have enjoyed the drive +amazingly, as it promised to afford me a better opportunity than I +had hitherto possessed of seeing Cairo, seated at my ease, instead +of pushing and jostling through the crowd either on foot or upon +a donkey. The gentleman, however, bent upon showing off, would not +listen to our entreaties that the grooms should lead the horses, but +dashed along, regardless of the danger to the foot-passengers, or the +damage that the donkeys might sustain. + +So long as we proceeded slowly, the drive was very agreeable, since +it enabled me to observe the effect produced by our party upon the +spectators. Many sat with the utmost gravity in their shops, scarcely +deigning to cast their eyes upon what must certainly have been a +novel sight; others manifested much more curiosity, and seemed to be +infinitely amused, while heads put out of the upper windows showed +that we attracted some attention. My enjoyment was destined to be very +brief, for in a short time our coachman, heedless of the mischief that +might ensue, drove rapidly forward, upsetting and damaging every thing +that came in his way. In vain did we scream and implore; he declared +that it was the fault of the people, who would not remove themselves +out of danger; but as we had no _avant-courrier_ to clear the road +before us, and our carriage came very suddenly upon many persons, I +do not see how they could have managed to escape. At length, we drove +over an unfortunate donkey, which was pulled down by a piece of iron +sticking from the carriage, and thus becoming entangled in the load he +bore. I fear that the animal was injured, for the poor boy who drove +him cried bitterly, and though we (that is, the ladies of the party) +would gladly have remunerated him for the damage he might have +sustained, neither time nor opportunity was permitted for this act of +justice. On we drove, every moment expecting to be flung out against +the walls, as the carriage turned round the corners of streets placed +at right angles to each other. At length, we succeeded in our wish to +have the grooms at the horses' heads, and without further accident, +though rendered as nervous as possible, passed through the gate of +the city. We drove forward now without any obstacle through the +Necropolis, or City of Tombs, before-mentioned, and I regretted +much that we had not left Cairo at an earlier hour, which would have +permitted us to examine the interiors. + +The desert comes up to the very walls of Cairo, and these tombs rise +from a plain of bare sand. I observed some gardens and cultivated +places stretching out into the wilderness, no intermediate state +occurring between the garden and the arid waste in which vegetation +suddenly ceased. We might have performed the whole journey across the +desert in the carriage which had brought us thus far, but as one of +the ladies was a little nervous, and moreover thought the road too +rough, I readily agreed to choose another mode of conveyance; in fact, +I wished particularly to proceed leisurely to Suez, and in the manner +in which travellers had hitherto been conveyed. + +The mighty changes which are now effecting in Egypt, should nothing +occur to check their progress, will soon render the track to India so +completely beaten, and so deeply worn by wheels, that I felt anxious +to take advantage of the opportunity now offered to traverse the +desert in a more primitive way. I disliked the idea of hurrying +through a scene replete with so many interesting recollections. I had +commenced reading the _Arabian Nights' Entertainment_ at the age of +five years; since which period, I had read them over and over again +at every opportunity, finishing with the last published number of the +translation by Mr. Lane. This study had given me a strong taste for +every thing relating to the East, and Arabia especially. I trust that +I am not less familiar with the writings of the Old and New Testament, +and consequently it may easily be imagined that I should not find +three days in the desert tedious, and that I felt anxious to enjoy to +the uttermost the reveries which it could not fail to suggest. + +In parting with our friend and the carriage, he declared that he +would indemnify himself for the constraint we had placed upon him, by +driving over two or three people at least. Fortunately, his desire +of showing off was displayed too soon; we heard, and rejoiced at +the tidings, that he upset the carriage before he got to the gate of +Cairo. Two or three lives are lost, it is said, whenever the Pasha, +who drives furiously, traverses the city in a European equipage. That +he should not trouble himself about so mean a thing as the life or +limb of a subject, may not be wonderful; but that he should permit +Frank strangers to endanger both, seems unaccountable. + +No Anglo-Indian resident in either of the three presidencies thinks +of driving a wheel-carriage through streets never intended for +such conveyances. In visiting Benares, Patna, or any other of the +celebrated native cities of India, elephants, horses, palanquins, +or some other vehicle adapted for the occasion, are chosen. It, +therefore, appears to be the more extraordinary that English people, +who are certainly living upon sufferance in Egypt, should thus +recklessly expose the inhabitants to danger, to which they are not +subjected by any of their own people under the rank of princes. +Nothing can be more agreeable or safe than a drive across the desert, +and probably the time is speedily approaching in which the rich +inhabitants of Cairo will indulge, as they do at Alexandria, in the +luxury of English carriages, and for this purpose, the streets and +open spaces best adapted for driving will be improved and widened. + +I cannot take leave of Cairo without paying the tribute due to the +manner in which the streets are kept. In passing along the narrow +lanes and avenues before-mentioned, not one of the senses was shocked; +dust, of course, there is every where, but nothing worse to be seen at +least; and the sight and smell were not offended, as at Paris or even +in London, when passing through the by-ways of either. Altogether, if +I may venture to pronounce an opinion, after so short a residence, I +should say that, if our peaceful relations with Egypt should continue +to be kept up, in no place will travellers be better received or +entertained than in Cairo. + + + + +CHAPTER VI. + + * * * * * + +THE DESERT. + + * * * * * + + Equipage for crossing the Desert--Donkey-chairs--Sense of calmness and + tranquillity on entering the Desert--Nothing dismal in its + aspect--The Travellers' Bungalow--Inconvenient construction of these + buildings--Kafila of the Governor of Jiddah and his Lady--Their + Equipage--Bedouins--Impositions practised on Travellers--Desert + Travelling not disagreeable--Report of the sailing of the + Steamer--Frequency of false reports--Ease with which an infant of + the party bore the journey--A wheeled carriage crossing the + Desert--Parties of Passengers from Suez encountered--One of Mr. Hill's + tilted Caravans--Difficulty of procuring water at the Travellers' + Bungalow--A night in the Desert--Magnificent sunrise--First sight + of the Red Sea and the Town of Suez--Miserable appearance of the + latter--Engagement of a Passage to Bombay. + + +We found the equipages in which we were to cross the desert waiting +for us at the City of Tombs. They consisted of donkey-chairs, one +being provided for each of the females of the party, while my +friend Miss E. had also an extra donkey, with a saddle, to ride upon +occasionally. Nothing could be more comfortable than these vehicles; +a common arm-chair was fastened into a sort of wooden tray, which +projected in front about a foot, thereby enabling the passenger to +carry a small basket or other package; the chairs were then slung by +the arms to long bamboos, one upon either side, and these, by means +of ropes or straps placed across, were fastened upon the backs +of donkeys, one in front, the other, behind. Five long and narrow +vehicles of this kind, running across the desert, made a sufficiently +droll and singular appearance, and we did nothing but admire each +other as we went along. The movement was delightfully easy, and the +donkeys, though not travelling at a quick pace, got on very well. Our +cavalcade consisted besides of two stout donkeys, which carried the +beds and carpet-bags of the whole party, thus enabling us to send the +camels a-head: the three men-servants were also mounted upon donkeys, +and there were three or four spare ones, in case any of the others +should knock up upon the road. In this particular it is proper to +say that we were cheated, for had such an accident occurred, the +extra-animals were so weak and inefficient, that they could not have +supplied the places of any of those in use. There were eight or ten +donkey-men, and a boy; the latter generally contrived to ride, but the +others walked by the side of the equipages. + +In first striking into the desert, we all enjoyed a most delightful +feeling of repose; every thing around appeared to be so calm +and tranquil, that, especially after encountering the noises and +multitudes of a large and crowded city, it was soothing to the mind +thus to emerge from the haunts of men and wander through the vast +solitudes that spread their wastes before us. To me there was nothing +dismal in the aspect of the desert, nor was the view so boundless as I +had expected. + +In these wide plains, the fall of a few inches is sufficient to +diversify the prospect; there is always some gentle acclivity to be +surmounted, which cheats the sense with the expectation of finding +a novel scene beyond: the sand-hills in the distance also range +themselves in wild and fantastic forms, many appearing like +promontories jutting out into some noble harbour, to which the +traveller seems to be approaching. Nor were there wanting living +objects to animate the scene; our own little kafila was sufficiently +large and cheerful to banish every idea of dreariness, and we +encountered others much more picturesque. + +Soon after losing sight of the tombs, we came upon a party who +had bivouac'd for the night; the camels, unladen, were, with their +burthens, placed in a circle, and the people busily employed in +preparing their evening meal. Other evidences there were, however, to +show that the toils of the desert were but too frequently fatal to the +wretched beasts of burthen employed in traversing these barren wastes; +the whitened bones of camels and donkeys occurred so frequently, as to +serve to indicate the road. + +Our first stage was the shortest of the whole, and we came to the +rest-house, or travellers' bungalow, just as night closed in, and long +before I entertained any idea that we should have been able to reach +it, travelling as we did at an easy walk. The bungalow was not yet +completed, which we found rather an advantage, since it seems to +be exceedingly questionable whether the buildings erected for the +accommodation of travellers on the track to Suez will be habitable +even for a few hours in the course of another year. The funds of the +Steam-committee have been lamentably mismanaged in this instance. +However, there being no windows, we were enabled to enjoy the fresh +air, and the room we occupied, not having been long whitewashed, was +perfectly clean. + +Nothing can have been worse planned than the construction of these +houses. The only entrance is in front, down a narrow passage, open at +the top, and having apartments on either side, the two in front +being sleeping-rooms for travellers, with a kitchen and other offices +beyond, and at the back of all a stable, which occupies the whole +width of the building. The consequence is, that all the animals, biped +and quadruped, inhabiting the stable, must pass the traveller's +door, who is regaled with the smell proceeding from the said stable, +cook-rooms, &c.; all the insects they collect, and all the feathers +from the fowls slaughtered upon the spot; the plan being, when parties +arrive, to drive the unhappy creatures into the house, kill and pluck +them immediately. + +The persons in care of these bungalows are usually a mongrel sort of +Franks, who have no idea of cleanliness, and are regardless of the +most unsavoury odours. The furniture of the rooms consisted of a deal +table and a moveable divan of wicker-work, while another, formed of +the same solid materials as the house, spread in the Egyptian fashion +along one side. Upon this Miss E. and myself laid our beds; our two +other lady friends, with the infant and female attendant, occupying +the opposite apartment. We concluded the evening with tea and supper, +for which we were amply provided, having cold fowls, cold ham, +hard-boiled eggs, and bread and fruit in abundance. Wrapped up in our +dressing-gowns, we passed a very comfortable night, and in the morning +were able to procure the luxury of warm water for washing with. + +Having discovered that the people of the hotel at Cairo had forgotten +to put up some of the articles which we had ordered, and being afraid +that our supplies might fail, we had sent Mohammed back for them. He +did not rejoin us until eight o'clock the following morning, just +as we had begun to grow uneasy about him; it appeared that, although +apparently well acquainted with the desert, having crossed it many +times, he had missed the track, and lost his way, and after wandering +about all night, was glad to meet with a man, whom he engaged as a +guide. The poor fellow was much exhausted, but had not omitted to +bring us a bottle of fresh milk for our breakfast. We desired him to +get some tea for himself, and he soon recovered; his spirits never +forsaking him. + +In consequence of these delays, it was rather late, past nine o'clock, +before we set forward. I had provided myself with a pair of crape +spectacles and a double veil, but I speedily discarded both; the crape +fretted my eye-lashes, and would have produced a greater degree of +irritation than the sand. A much better kind are those of wire, which +tie round the head with a ribbon, and take in the whole eye. Though +the sun was rather warm, its heat was tempered by a fresh cold air, +which blew across the desert, though not strongly enough to lift the +sand; we, therefore, travelled with much less inconvenience than is +sustained upon a turnpike-road in England in dusty weather. I could +not endure to mar the prospect by looking at it through a veil, and +found my parasol quite sufficient protection against the rays of the +sun. + +The kafila, which we had passed the preceding evening, overtook us +soon after we started. It consisted of a long train of camels, and +belonged to the native governor of Jiddah, who was proceeding to that +place with, his wife and family, a native vessel being in waiting +at Suez to take him down the Red Sea. We saw several females wrapped +closely from head to foot in long blue garments, mounted upon these +camels. The governor's wife travelled in a sort of cage, which I +recognised immediately, from the description in Anastatius. This +vehicle is formed of two rude kinds of sophas, or what in English +country phrase would be called settles, canopied overhead, and with a +resting place for the feet. They are sometimes separated, and slung on +either side of a camel; at other times joined together, and placed on +the top, with a curtain or cloth lining, to protect the inmates from +the sun, and secure the privacy so necessary for a Mohammedan lady. +The height of the camels with their lading, and this cage on +the summit of all, give an extraordinary and almost supernatural +appearance to the animal as he plods along, his head nodding, and his +whole body moving in a strange ungainly manner. + +Occasionally we saw a small party of Bedouins, easily distinguished by +the fierce countenances glaring from beneath the large rolls of cloth +twisted over their turbans, and round their throats, leaving nothing +besides flashing eyes, a strongly developed nose, and a bushy beard, +to be seen. One or two, superior to the rest, were handsomely +dressed, armed to the teeth, and rode camels well-groomed and richly +caparisoned; wild-looking warriors, whom it would not have been +agreeable to meet were the country in a less tranquil state. + +To the present ruler of Egypt we certainly owe the security now +enjoyed in passing the desert; a party of ladies, having only three +servants and a few donkey-drivers, required no other protection, +though our beds, dressing-cases, and carpet-bags, to say nothing of +the camels laden with trunks and portmanteaus a-head, must have been +rather tempting to robbers by profession. The Pasha is the only +person who has hitherto been able to oblige the Sheikhs to respect the +property of those travellers not strong enough to protect themselves +from outrage. It is said that occasionally these Bedouins, when +desirous of obtaining water, make no scruple of helping themselves to +the supplies at the bungalows; the will, therefore, is not wanting to +commit more serious depredations. Consequently, in maintaining a good +understanding with Egypt, we must likewise endeavour to render its +sovereign strong enough to keep the neighbouring tribes in awe. + +Having made a slight refection on the road, of hard-boiled eggs, +bread, grapes, and apples, we came up at mid-day to a rest-house, +where it was determined we should remain for an hour or two, to water +the donkeys, and afford them needful repose, while we enjoyed a more +substantial luncheon. Our companions were so well satisfied with the +management of Mohammed, who conducted the whole line of march, that +they sent their Egyptian servant forward to order our dinner at the +resting-place for the night. We found, however, that advantage had +been taken of Mohammed's absence the preceding evening, and of the +hurry of the morning's departure, to send back some of the animals we +had engaged and paid for, and to substitute others so weak as to be +perfectly useless. We were likewise cheated with regard to the water; +we were told that the camel bearing the skins, for which we had paid +at Cairo, had been taken by mistake by two gentlemen travelling in +advance, and as we could not allow the poor animals to suffer, we of +course purchased water for them. This was no doubt an imposition, but +one for which, under the circumstances, we had no remedy. + +Upon reaching the bungalow, we again came up with the kafila that we +had seen twice before; the wife of the governor of Jiddah, with +her women, vacated the apartment into which we were shown, when we +arrived; but her husband sent a message, requesting that we would +permit her to occupy another, which was empty. We were but too happy +to comply, and should have been glad to have obtained a personal +interview; but having no interpreter excepting Mohammed, who would +not have been admitted to the conference, we did not like to make the +attempt. From the glance which we obtained of the lady, she seemed +to be very diminutive; nothing beyond height and size could be +distinguishable under the blue envelope she wore, in common with her +women: some of the latter occasionally unveiled their faces, which +were certainly not very attractive; but others, probably those who +were younger and handsomer, kept their features closely shrouded. + +Again betaking ourselves to our conveyances, we launched forth into +the desert, enjoying it as much the second day as we had done the +first. I entertained a hope of seeing some of the beautiful gazelles, +for which Arabia is famous; but not one appeared. A pair of birds +occasionally skimmed over the desert, at a short distance from +its surface; but those were the only specimens of wild animals we +encountered. The skeletons of camels occurred as frequently as before; +many nearly entire, others with their bones scattered abroad, but +whether borne by the winds, or by some savage beast, we could not +learn. Neither could we discover whether the deaths of these poor +animals had been recent or not; for so short a time only is required +in Eastern countries for the insects to anatomize any animal that +may fall in their way, that even supposing that jackalls and hyaenas +should not be attracted to the spot, the ants would make quick work +even of so large a creature as a camel. + +There were hills in the back ground, which might probably shelter +vultures, kites, and the family of quadrupeds that feed upon offal, +and much did I desire to mount a high trotting camel, and take a +scamper amongst these hills--obliged to content myself with jogging +soberly on with my party, I was fain to find amusement in the +contemplation of a cavalcade, the like of which will probably not +be often seen again. Our five vehicles sometimes trotted abreast, +affording us an opportunity of conversing with each other; but more +frequently they would spread themselves all over the plain, the guides +allowing their beasts to take their own way, provided they moved +straight forward. Occasionally, a spare donkey, or one carrying the +baggage, would stray off in an oblique direction, and then the drivers +were compelled to make a wide detour to bring them in again. Once +or twice, the ropes slipped, and my chair came to the ground; +fortunately, it had not to fall far; or a donkey would stumble and +fall, but no serious accident occurred; and though one of the party, +being behind, and unable to procure assistance in righting the +carriage, was obliged to walk a mile or two, we were all speedily in +proper trim again. Towards evening, the easy motion of the chair, and +the inclination I felt to close my eyes, after staring about all day, +caused me to fall asleep; and again, much sooner than I had expected, +I found myself at the place of our destination. + +Either owing to a want of funds, or to some misunderstanding, the +bungalow at this place, which is considered to be nearly midway across +the desert, had only been raised a few inches from the ground; there +were tents, however, for the accommodation of travellers, which we +infinitely preferred. The one we occupied was of sufficient size to +admit the whole party--that is, the four ladies, the baby, and its +female attendant. There were divans on either side, to spread the beds +upon, and the openings at each end made the whole delightfully cool. + +We found Ali, the servant sent on in the morning, very busy +superintending the cookery for dinner, which was performed in the open +air. The share of bread and apples given to me upon the road I now +bestowed upon my donkeys, not having reflected at the time that +the drivers would be glad of it; so the next day, when the usual +distributions were made, I gave the grapes, &c. to the donkey-men, +who stuffed them into their usual repository, the bosoms of their blue +shirts, and seemed very well pleased to get them. + +The adjoining tent was occupied by two gentlemen, passengers of the +_Berenice_; their servant, a European, brought to some of our people +the alarming intelligence that the steamers would leave Suez in the +course of a few hours, and that our utmost speed would scarcely permit +us to arrive in time. Distrusting this information, we sent to inquire +into its truth, and learned that no danger of the kind was to be +apprehended, as the steamer required repair, the engines being out of +order, and the coal having ignited twice on the voyage up the Red Sea. + +Whatever may be the cause, whether from sheer misconception or +an intention to mislead, it is almost impossible to rely upon any +intelligence given concerning the sailing of vessels and other +events, about which it would appear very possible to obtain authentic +information. From the time of our landing at Alexandria, we had been +tormented by reports which, if true, rendered it more than probable +that we should be too late for the steamer appointed to convey the +Government mails to Bombay. Not one of these reports turned out to be +correct, and those who acted upon them sustained much discomfort in +hurrying across the desert. + +We were, as usual, rather late the following morning; our dear little +play-thing, the baby, bore the journey wonderfully; but it seemed very +requisite that she should have good and unbroken sleep at night, and +we found so little inconvenience in travelling in the day-time, that +we could make no objection to an arrangement which contributed so much +to her health and comfort. It was delightful to see this lovely little +creature actually appearing to enjoy the scene as much as ourselves; +sometimes seated in the lap of her nurse, who travelled in a chair, +at others at the bottom of one of our chairs; then in the arms of +her male attendant, who rode a donkey, or in those of the donkey-men, +trudging on foot; she went to every body, crowing and laughing all the +time; and I mention her often, not only for the delight she afforded +us, but also to show how very easily infants at her tender age--she +was not more than seven months old--could be transported across the +desert. + +After breakfast, and just as we were about to start upon our day's +journey, we saw what must certainly be called a strange sight--a +wheeled carriage approaching our small encampment. It came along like +the wind, and proved to be a phaeton, double-bodied, that is, with a +driving-seat in front, with a European charioteer guiding a pair of +horses as the wheelers, while the leaders were camels, with an Arab +riding postillion. An English and a Parsee gentleman were inside, and +the carriage was scarcely in sight, before it had stopped in the midst +of us. The party had only been a few hours coming across. We hastily +exchanged intelligence; were told that the _Berenice_ had lost all +its speed, being reduced, in consequence of alterations made in the +dock-yard in Bombay, from twelve knots an hour to eight, and that the +engines had never worked well during the voyage up. + +During this day's journey, we met several parties, passengers of the +steamer, coming from Suez. One lady passed us in a donkey-chair, with +her daughter riding a donkey by the side; another group, consisting +of two ladies and several gentlemen, were all mounted upon camels, +and having large umbrellas over their heads, made an exceedingly odd +appearance, the peculiar gait of the camel causing them to rise and +fall in a very singular manner. At a distance, their round moving +summits looked like the umbrageous tops of trees, and we might fancy +as they approached, the lower portion being hidden by ridges of sand, +that "Birnam Wood was coming to Dunsinane." + +The monotony usually complained of in desert travelling cannot be very +strongly felt between Cairo and Suez, for though there is little else +but sand to be seen, yet it is so much broken and undulated, that +there is always some diversity of objects. The sand-hills now gave +place to rock, and it appeared as if many ranges of hills stretched +out both to the right and left of the plains we traversed; their crags +and peaks, piled one upon the other, and showing various colours, rich +browns and purples, as they stood in shade or sunshine. Greenish tints +assured us that vegetation was not quite so seamy upon these hills +as in the desert they skirted, which only showed at intervals a few +coarse plants, scarcely deserving the name. It has been said, that +there is only one tree between Cairo and Suez; but we certainly +saw several, though none of any size; that which is called, _par +excellence_, "the tree," affording a very poor idea of timber. + +We made a short rest, in the middle of the day, at a travellers' +bungalow; and just as we were leaving it, one of Mr. Hill's caravans +arrived--a tilted cart upon springs, and drawn by a pair of horses; +it contained a family, passengers by the _Berenice,_ consisting of a +gentleman and his wife, two children and a servant. We conversed with +them for a few minutes, and learned that they had not found the +road very rough, and that where it was heavy they added a camel as a +leader. + +At this place we found some difficulty in purchasing, water for +the donkeys; competition in the desert is not, as in other places, +beneficial to the traveller. By some understanding with the Steam +Committee, Mr. Hill has put his people into the bungalows; and they, +it appears, have orders not to sell water to persons who travel under +Mr. Waghorn's agency. If the original purpose of these houses was to +afford general accommodation, the shelter which cannot be refused +is rendered nugatory by withholding the supplies necessary for the +subsistence of men and cattle. We procured water at last; but every +thing attainable at these places is dear and bad. + +We arrived, at rather an early hour, at our halting place for the +night; and as we considered it to be desirable to get into Suez as +speedily as possible, we agreed to start by three o'clock on the +following morning. Just as we had finished our evening meal, three +gentlemen of our acquaintance, who had scrambled across the desert +from the Pyramids, came up, weary and wayworn, and as hungry as +possible. We put the best that we had before them, and then retired +to the opposite apartment. But in this place I found it impossible to +stay; there was no free circulation of air throughout the room, and +it had all the benefit of the smell from the stable and other +abominations. + +Leaving, therefore, my companions asleep, and wrapping myself up in +my shawl, I stole out into the passage, where there were several Arabs +lying about, and not without difficulty contrived to step between +them, and to unfasten the door which opened upon the desert. There +was no moon, but the stars gave sufficient light to render the scene +distinctly visible. A lamp gleamed from the window of the apartment +which I had quitted, and the camels, donkeys, and people belonging +to the united parties, formed themselves into very picturesque groups +upon the sand, constituting altogether a picture which could not fail +to excite many agreeable sensations. The whitened bones of animals +perishing from fatigue and thirst, while attempting to cross the arid +expanse, associated in our minds with privation, toil, and danger, +told too truly that these notions were not purely ideal; but here +was a scene of rest and repose which the desert had never before +presented; and mean and inconvenient as the building I contemplated +might be, its very existence in such a place seemed almost a marvel, +and the imagination, kindling at the sight, could scarcely set bounds +to its expectations for the future. In the present frame of my mind, +however, I was rather disturbed by the indications of change already +commenced, and still to increase. I had long desired to spend a night +alone upon the desert, and without wandering to a dangerous distance, +I placed a ridge of sand between my solitary station and the objects +which brought the busy world to view, and indulged in thoughts of +scenes and circumstances which happened long ago. + +According to the best authorities, we were in the track of the +Israelites, and in meditations suggested by this interesting portion +of Bible history, the time passed so rapidly, that I was surprised +when I found the people astir and preparing for our departure. My +garments were rather damp with the night-dews, for, having left some +of my friends sleeping upon my fur cloak, I had gone out more lightly +attired than perhaps was prudent. I was not, therefore, sorry to find +myself warmly wrapped up, and in my chair, in which I should have +slept very comfortably, had Hot the man who guided the donkeys taken +it into his head to quarrel with one of his comrades, and to bawl out +his grievances close to my ear. My wakefulness was, however, amply +repaid by the most glorious sunrise I ever witnessed. The sky had been +for some time obscured by clouds, which had gathered themselves in a +bank upon the Eastern horizon. The sun's rays started up at once, +like an imperial crown, above this bank, and as they darted their +glittering spears, for such they seemed, along the heavens, the +clouds, dispersing, formed into a mighty arch, their edges becoming +golden; while below all was one flush of crimson light. Neither at sea +nor on land had I ever witnessed any thing so magnificent as this, +and those who desire to see the god of day rise in the fulness of his +majesty must make a pilgrimage to the desert. + +We made no stay at the rest-house, which we reached about nine o'clock +in the morning; and here, for the last time, we saw the governor of +Jiddah and his party, winding along at some distance, and giving life +and character to the desert. The fantastic appearance of the hills +increased as we advanced; the slightest stretch of fancy was alone +necessary to transform many into fortresses and towers, and at length +a bright glitter at a distance revealed the Red Sea. The sun gleaming +upon its waters shewed them like a mirror, and soon afterwards the +appearance of some low buildings indicated the town of Suez. + +I happened to be in advance of the party, under the conduct of one of +the gentlemen who had joined us on the preceding evening; I therefore +directed Mohammed to go forward, to announce our approach; and either +the sight of the Red Sea, or their eagerness to reach a well-known +spring of water, induced my donkeys to gallop along the road with me; +a fortunate circumstance, as the day was beginning to be very sultry, +and I felt that I should enjoy the shelter and repose of a habitation. +As we went along, indications of the new power, which had already +effected the easy transit of the desert, were visible in small patches +of coal, scattered upon the sand; presently we saw a dark nondescript +object, that did not look at all like the abode of men, civilized +or uncivilized; and yet, from the group hovering about an aperture, +seemed to be tenanted by human beings. This proved to be an old +boiler, formerly belonging to a steam-vessel, and appearing, indeed, +as if some black and shapeless hulk had been cast on shore. The well, +which had attracted my donkeys, was very picturesque; the water flowed +into a large stone trough, or rather basin, beneath the walls of a +castellated edifice, pierced with many small windows, and apparently +in a very dilapidated state. Those melancholy _memento moris,_ which +had tracked our whole progress through the desert, were to be seen +in the immediate vicinity of this well. The skeletons of five or six +camels lay in a group within a few yards of the haven which they had +doubtless toiled anxiously, though so vainly, to reach. I never could +look upon the bones of these poor animals without a painful feeling, +and in the hope that European skill and science may yet bring forward +those hidden waters which would disarm the desert of its terrors. +It is said that the experiment of boring has been tried, and failed, +between Suez and Cairo, but that it succeeded in the great desert; +some other method, perhaps, may be found, if the project of bringing +water from the hills, by means of aqueducts, should be too expensive. +We heard this plan talked of at the bungalow, but I fear that, in the +present state of Egypt, it is very chimerical. + +This was now our fourth day upon the desert, and we had not sustained +the smallest inconvenience; the heat, even at noon, being very +bearable, and the sand not in the least degree troublesome. Doubtless, +at a less favourable period of the year, both would prove difficult +to bear. The wind, we were told, frequently raised the sand in clouds; +and though the danger of being buried beneath the tombs thus made, we +had reason to believe, was greatly exaggerated, yet the plague of sand +is certainly an evil to be dreaded, and travellers will do well +to avoid the season in which it prevails. The speed of my donkeys +increasing, rather than diminishing, after we left the well, for they +seemed to know that Suez would terminate their journey, I crossed the +intervening three miles very quickly, and was soon at the walls of the +town. + +Distance lends no enchantment to the view of Suez. It is difficult to +fancy that the few miserable buildings, appearing upon the margin +of the sea, actually constitute a town; and the heart sinks at the +approach to a place so barren and desolate. My donkeys carried me +through a gap in the wall, which answered all the purposes of +a gateway, and we passed along broken ground and among wretched +habitations, more fit for the abode of savage beasts than men. Even +the superior description of houses bore so forlorn and dilapidated +an appearance, that I actually trembled as I approached them, fearing +that my guide would stop, and tell me that, my journey was at an end. + +Before I had time to make any observations upon the place to which I +was conducted, I found myself at the foot of a flight of steps, and +reaching a landing place, saw another above, and Mohammed descending +to meet me. I followed him to the top, and crossing a large apartment, +which served as dining and drawing room, entered a passage which led +to a light and certainly airy bed-chamber; for half the front wall, +and a portion of one of the sides, were entirely formed of wooden +trellice, which admitted, with the utmost freedom, all the winds of +heaven, the sun, and also the dust. There was a mat upon the floor, +and the apartment was whitewashed to the rafters, which were in good +condition; and upon Mohammed's declaration that it was free from rats, +I felt an assurance of a share of comfort which I had dared not expect +before. There were two neat beds, with musquito-curtains, two tables, +and washing apparatus, but no looking-glass; an omission which I could +supply, though we had dispensed with such a piece of luxury altogether +in the desert. Well supplied with hot and cold water, I had enjoyed +the refreshment of plenteous ablutions, and nearly completed my +toilet, before the arrival of the friends I had so completely +distanced. I made an attempt to sit down to my desk, but was unable +to write a line, and throwing myself on my bed full dressed, I fell +asleep in a moment, and enjoyed the deepest repose for an hour, or +perhaps longer. + +I was awakened by my friend, Miss E., who informed me that the purser +of the _Berenice_ was in the drawing-room, and that I must go to him +and pay my passage-money. I was not, however, provided with the means +of doing this in ready cash, and as the rate of exchange for the +thirty pounds in sovereigns which I possessed could not be decided +here, at the suggestion of one of my fellow-passengers, I drew a +bill upon a banker in Bombay for the amount, eighty pounds, the sum +demanded for half a cabin, which, fortunately, I could divide with +the friend who had accompanied me from England. This transaction so +completely roused me, that I found myself equal to the continuation +of the journal which I had commenced at Cairo. I despatched also the +letter with which I had been kindly furnished to the British Consul, +and was immediately favoured by a visit from him. As we expressed +some anxiety about our accommodation on board the steamer, he +politely offered to take us to the vessel in his own boat; but to +this arrangement the purser objected, stating that the ship was in +confusion, and that one of the best cabins had been reserved for us. +With this assurance we were accordingly content. + +We arrived at Suez on Wednesday, the 9th of October, and were told to +hold ourselves in readiness to embark on Friday at noon. We were not +sorry for this respite, especially as we found our hotel, which was +kept by a person in the employment of Mr. Waghorn, more comfortable +than could have been hoped for from its exterior. The greatest +annoyance we sustained was from the dust, which was brought in by a +very strong wind through the lattices. I endeavoured to remedy this +evil, in some degree, by directing the servants of the house to nail +a sheet across the upper portion of the perforated wood-work. The +windows of our chamber commanded as good a view of Suez as the place +afforded; one at the side overlooked an irregular open space, which +stretched between the house and the sea. At some distance opposite, +there were one or two mansions of much better appearance than the +rest, and having an air of comfort imparted to them by outside +shutters, of new and neat construction. These we understood to be the +abodes of officers in the Pasha's service. Mehemet Ali is said to +be extremely unwilling to allow English people to build houses +for themselves at Suez; while he freely grants permission to their +residence at Alexandria and Cairo, he seems averse to their settling +upon the shores of the Red Sea. Mr. Waghorn and Mr. Hill are, +therefore, compelled to be content to fit up the only residences at +their disposal in the best manner that circumstances will admit. I +had no opportunity of forming any opinion respecting Mr. Hill's +establishment, but am able to speak very well of the accommodation +afforded by the hotel at which we sojourned. + +Judging from the exterior, for the desert itself does not appear to +be less productive than Suez, there must have been some difficulty in +getting supplies, notwithstanding we found no want of good things at +our breakfast and dinner-table, plenty of eggs and milk, fowl and fish +being supplied; every article doing credit to the skill of the +cook. Nor was the cleanliness that prevailed, in despite of all the +obstacles opposed to it, less worthy of praise: the servants were +civil and attentive, and the prices charged extremely moderate. All +the guests of the hotel of course formed one family, assembling daily +at meals, after the continental fashion. The dining-room was spacious, +and divided into two portions; the one ascended by a step was +surrounded by divans, after the Egyptian fashion, and here were books +to be found containing useful and entertaining knowledge. A few stray +numbers of the _Asiatic Journal_, half a dozen volumes of standard +novels, files of the _Bombay Times_, and works illustrative of ancient +and modern Egypt, served to beguile the time of those who had +nothing else to do. Meanwhile, travellers came dropping in, and the +caravanserai was soon crowded. + + + + +CHAPTER VII. + + * * * * * + +SUEZ TO ADEN. + + * * * * * + + Travellers assembling at Suez--Remarks on the Pasha's + Government--Embarkation on the Steamer--Miserable accommodation in the + _Berenice_, and awkwardness of the attendants--Government Ships not + adapted to carry Passengers--Cause of the miserable state of the Red + Sea Steamers--Shores of the Red Sea--Arrival at Mocha--Its appearance + from the Sea--Arrival at Aden--Its wild and rocky appearance on + landing--Cape Aden--The Town--Singular appearance of the Houses--The + Garrison expecting an attack by the Arabs--Discontent of the + Servants of Europeans at Aden--Complaints by Anglo-Indians against + Servants--Causes--Little to interest Europeans in Aden. + + +Amongst the travellers who came dropping in at the hotel, was +the Portuguese governor of Goa and his suite, consisting of four +gentlemen, the private and public secretaries, an aide-de-camp, and +the fourth holding some other appointment. They came by the French +steamer, which had left Marseilles on the day of our departure. The +governor, a fine old soldier, and a perfect gentleman, proved a +great acquisition to our party; and knowing the state of Goa, and the +disappointment he would in all probability sustain upon arriving at +the seat of his government in the present low condition to which it +is reduced, we could not help feeling much interested in his welfare. +This gentleman, who inherited the title of baron, and was moreover +an old general officer, had mixed in the very best society, and was +evidently well acquainted with courts and camps; he spoke several +languages, and in the course of his travels had visited England. His +retinue were quiet gentlemanly men, and the young aide-de-camp, in +particular, made himself very agreeable. + +There were two other travellers of some note at Suez, who had put up +at Hill's Hotel; one, an American gentleman, who had come across the +desert for the purpose of looking at the Red Sea. I saw him mounted +upon a donkey, and gazing as he stood upon the shore at the bright but +narrow channel, so interesting to all who have read the history of the +Israelites, with reverential feelings. I felt a strong inclination +to accost him; but refrained, being unwilling to disturb his reveries +with what he might have thought an impertinent interruption. It was +evidently a last look, for he was veiled for the journey, and at +length, tearing himself away, he turned his donkey's head, and +struck into the desert. The other traveller was a young Scotsman, +who proposed to go as far as Aden in the _Berenice_, on his way to +Abyssinia, trusting that a residence of some months in Egypt would +enable him to pass for a Turk. He had no very precise object in view, +but intended to make an attempt to explore the sources of the Nile. + +There was nothing in Suez that could make a longer stay desirable, and +we quitted it without regret. My journey through Egypt had been much +too rapid for me to presume to give any decided opinion concerning +the strongly agitated question respecting the merits of the Pasha's +government. It is very evident that he has not learned the most +instructive lesson of political economy, nor has yet understood that +the way to render himself powerful is to make his subjects rich; +nevertheless, though his exactions and monopolies may be felt at +present as very serious evils, yet, in establishing manufactories, and +in embodying a national force, there can be no doubt that he has sown +the seeds of much that is good; and should his government, after +his death, fall into the hands of people equally free from religious +prejudices, we may reasonably hope that they will entertain more +enlarged and liberal views, and thus render measures, now difficult +to bear, of incalculable advantage to the future prosperity of the +country. + +The British Consul politely offered to conduct myself and my female +friends on board the steamer; he accordingly called for us, and I +bade, as I hoped, a last adieu to Suez, it being my wish and intention +to return home by way of Cosseir. Previous to our embarkation, a +series of regulations had been placed in our hands for the engagement +of passages in the Honourable Company's armed steamers, with +instructions to passengers, &c. + +Upon repairing to our cabin, Miss E. and myself were surprised and +disappointed at the miserable accommodation it afforded. The three +cabins allotted to the use of the ladies had been appropriated, in two +instances, to married couples, and we were obliged to put up with one +of smaller size, which had the additional inconvenience of opening +into the public saloon. There were no Venetian blinds to the door, +consequently, the only means of obtaining a free circulation of air +was to have it open. A locker with a hinged shelf, which opened like +a shutter, and thus afforded space for one mattress to be placed upon +it, ran along one side of the cabin, under the port-hole, but the +floor was the only visible means of accommodation for the second +person crammed by Government regulation into this den. There was not +a place in which a wash-hand basin could be put, so awkwardly were +the doors arranged, to one of which there was no fastening whatsoever. +Altogether, the case seemed hopeless, and as cock-roaches were walking +about the vessel by dozens, the prospect of sleeping on the ground +was anything but agreeable, especially with the feeling that we were +paying at the rate of four pounds a day for our accommodation. + +We were, however, compelled to postpone our arrangements, by a summons +to dinner; and in the evening, when repairing again to the cabin, I +found my mattress placed upon two portmanteaus and a box. Of course, +no attention was paid to the inequalities of the surface, and I +endeavoured, by folding my fur cloak and a thick dressing-gown +under my sheet, to render this miserable apology for a bed tenable. +Hitherto, our berth-places in the Government-steamers had been very +comfortable; though small, they answered the purpose of sleeping and +of washing, while the larger cabin into which they opened, and which +was set apart for the ladies, enabled us all to complete our toilets +without inconvenience. A sail had been hung before the door by way of +curtain, but the heat was still difficult to bear, and we found that +we had adventured upon the Red Sea at least a month too soon. The next +morning, the captain, hearing that I had, as might have been +expected, passed a wretched night, kindly sent his cot for my future +accommodation; after the second night, however, the servants thinking +it too much trouble to attend to it properly, the ropes gave way, and +it came down. The cabin being much too small to allow it to remain +hanging all day, I at first trusted to the servants to put it up at +night; but, after this accident, and finding them to be incorrigibly +stupid, lazy, and disobliging, I contented myself with placing the cot +upon two portmanteaus, and thus forming a bed-place. Subsequently, one +of the passengers having kindly adjusted the ropes, Miss E. and myself +contrived to sling it; a fatiguing operation, which added much to the +discomforts of the voyage. The idea of going upon the quarter-deck, or +writing a letter, which might perhaps be handed up to Government, to +make a formal complaint to the captain, was not to be thought of, and +seeing the impossibility of getting any thing properly done by the +tribe of uncouth barbarians dignified by the name of servants, the +only plan was to render myself quite independent of them, and much did +we miss the activity, good humour, and readiness to oblige manifested +by our Egyptian attendant, Mohammed. Where a wish to please is +evinced, though wholly unattended by efficiency in the duties +undertaken by a servant, I can very easily excuse awkwardness, +forgetfulness, or any other fault; but the wretched half-castes, who +take service on board the Government steamers, have not even common +civility to recommend them; there was not a passenger in the vessel +who did not complain of the insults to which all were more or less +subjected. + +Where the blame lay, it is difficult to state exactly; no one could be +more kind and obliging than the captain, and it was this disposition +upon his part which rendered us all unwilling to worry him with +complaints. The charge of a steamer in the Red Sea seems quite enough +to occupy the commandant's time and attention, without having the +comforts of seven or eight-and-twenty passengers to look after; but +these duties might have been performed by a clever and active steward. +Whether there was a personage on board of that designation, I never +could learn; I asked several times to speak with him, but he never in +a single instance attended the summons. + +We had no reason to complain of want of liberality on the part of the +captain, for the table was plentifully supplied, though the cooks, +being unfortunately most worthy of the patronage of that potentate who +is said to send them to our kitchens, generally contrived to render +the greater portion uneatable. The advantage of rising from table with +an appetite is one which I have usually tried on board ship, having +only in few instances, during my numerous voyages, been fortunate +enough to find food upon which I dared to venture. + +The more I have seen of government ships, the more certain I feel that +they are not adapted to carry passengers. The authorities appear to +think that people ought to be too thankful to pay an enormous price +for the worst species of accommodation. The commandants have not +been accustomed to attend to the minutiae which can alone secure the +comfort of those who sail with them, while the officers, generally +speaking, endeavour to show their contempt of the service in which +they are sent, against their inclination, by neglect and even rudeness +towards the passengers. + +While on board the _Berenice_, the following paragraph in a Bombay +newspaper struck my eye, and as it is a corroboration of the +statements which I deem it to be a duty to make, I insert it in this +place. "The voyager (from Agra) must not think his troubles at an +end on reaching Bombay, or that the steam-packets are equal to the +passenger Indiaman in accommodation. In fact, I cannot conceive how a +lady manages; we have, however, five. There are only seven very small +cabins, into each of which two people are crammed; no room to swing +cats. Eight other deluded individuals, of whom I am one, are given to +understand that a cabin-passage is included in permission to sleep on +the benches and table of the cuddy. For this you pay Rs. 200 extra. +The vessel is dirty beyond measure, from the soot, and with the +difficulty of copious ablution and private accommodation, is almost +worse, to a lover of Indian habits, than the journey to Bombay from +Agra upon camels. No civility is to be got from the officers. If they +are not directly uncivil, the passengers are luckier than we have +been. They declare themselves disgusted with passenger ships, but do +not take the proper way of showing their superiority to the duty." + +The only officer of the _Berenice_ who dined at the captain's table +was the surgeon of the vessel, and in justice to him it must be +said, that he left no means untried to promote the comfort of the +passengers. It is likewise necessary to state, that we were never +put upon an allowance of water, although, in consequence of late +alterations made in the dockyard, the vessel had been reduced to +about half the quantity she had been accustomed to carry in iron tanks +constructed for the purpose. Notwithstanding this reduction, we +could always procure a sufficiency, either of hot or cold water, for +ablutions, rendered doubly necessary in consequence of the atmosphere +of coal-dust which we breathed. Not that it was possible to continue +clean for a single hour; nevertheless, there was some comfort in +making the attempt. + +There were eight cabins in the _Berenice_, besides the three +appropriated to ladies; these were ranged four on either side of +the saloon, reaching up two-thirds of the length. The apartment, +therefore, took the form of a T, and the upper end or cross was +furnished with horse-hair sofas; upon these, and upon the table, those +passengers slept who were not provided with cabins. Many preferred the +deck, but being washed out of it by the necessary cleaning process, +which took place at day-break, were obliged to make their toilettes +in the saloon. This also formed the dressing-place for dinner, and the +basins of dirty water, hair-brushes, &c. were scarcely removed from +the side-tables before the party were summoned to their repast. The +preparations for this meal were a work of time, always beginning at +half-past one; an hour was employed in placing the dishes upon the +table, in order that every thing might have time to cool. + +The reason assigned for not putting Venetian blinds to the cabin-doors +was this: it would injure the appearance of the cabin--an appearance +certainly not much improved by the dirty sail which hung against our +portal. The saloon itself, without this addition, was dingy enough, +being panelled with dark oak, relieved by a narrow gilt cornice, and +the royal arms carved and gilded over an arm-chair at the rudder-case, +the ornaments of a clock which never kept time. All the servants, who +could not find accommodation elsewhere, slept under the table; thus +adding to the abominations of this frightful place. And yet we were +congratulated upon our good fortune, in being accommodated in the +_Berenice_, being told that the _Zenobia_, which passed us on our way, +had been employed in carrying pigs between Waterford and Bristol, and +that the _Hugh Lindsay_ was in even worse condition; the _Berenice_ +being, in short, the crack ship. + +Every day added to the heat and the dirt, and in the evening, when +going upon deck to inhale the odours of the hen-coops, the smell was +insufferable. When to this annoyance coal-dust, half an inch deep, +is added, my preference of my own cabin will not be a subject of +surprise. With what degree of truth, I cannot pretend to say, all +the disagreeable circumstances sustained on board the _Berenice_ were +attributed to the alterations made in the docks. Previously to these +changes, we were told, the furnaces were supplied with coal by a +method which obviated the necessity of having it upon deck, whence the +dust was now carried all over the ship upon the feet of the persons +who were continually passing to and fro. + +Occasionally, we suffered some inconvenience from the motion of the +vessel, but, generally speaking, nothing more disagreeable occurred +than the tremulous action of the engines, an action which completely +incapacitated me from any employment except that of reading. The only +seats or tables we could command in our cabin consisted of our boxes, +so that being turned out of the saloon at half-past one, by the +servants who laid the cloth for dinner, it was not very easy to make +an attempt at writing, or even needle-work. Doubtless the passengers +from Bombay could contrive to have more comforts about them. It was +impossible, however, that those who had already made a long overland +journey should be provided with the means of furnishing their cabins, +and this consideration should weigh with the Government when taking +money for the accommodation of passengers. Cabins ought certainly to +be supplied with bed-places and a washing-table, and not to be left +perfectly dismantled by those occupants who arrive at Suez, and who, +having previously fitted them up, have a right to all they contain. + +The miserable state of the Red Sea steamers, of course, often +furnished a theme for conversation, and we were repeatedly told that +their condition was entirely owing to the jealousy of the people of +Calcutta, who could not endure the idea of the importance to which +Bombay was rising, in consequence of its speedy communication with +England. Without knowing exactly where the fault may lie, it must be +said that there is great room for improvement. In all probability, the +increased number of persons who will proceed to India by way of the +Red Sea, now that the passage is open, will compel the merchants, or +other speculators, to provide better vessels for the trip. At present, +the price demanded is enormously disproportioned to the accommodation +given, while the chance of falling in with a disagreeable person in +the commandant should be always taken into consideration by those who +meditate the overland journey. The consolation, in so fine a vessel +as the _Berenice_, consists in the degree of certainty with which +the duration of the voyage may be calculated, eighteen or twenty days +being the usual period employed. In smaller steamers, and those of a +less favourable construction, accidents and delays are very frequent; +sometimes the coal is burning half the voyage, and thus rendered +nearly useless to the remaining portion, the vessel depending entirely +upon the sails. + +During the hot weather and the monsoons, the navigation of the Red +Sea is attended with much inconvenience, from the sultriness of the +atmosphere and the high winds; it is only, therefore, at one season +of the year that travellers can, with any hope of comfort, avail +themselves of the route; it must, consequently, be questionable +whether the influx of voyagers will be sufficiently great to cover the +expense of the vessels required. A large steamer is now building +at Bombay, for the purpose of conveying the mails, and another is +expected out from England with the same object. + +The shores of the Red Sea are bold and rocky, exhibiting ranges of +picturesque hills, sometimes seceding from, at others approaching, the +beach. A few days brought us to Mocha. The captain had kindly promised +to take me on shore with him; but, unfortunately, the heat and the +fatigue which I had sustained had occasioned a slight attack of fever, +and as we did not arrive before the town until nearly twelve o'clock, +I was afraid to encounter the rays of the sun during the day. We could +obtain a good view of the city from the vessel; it appeared to +be large and well built, that is, comparatively speaking; but its +unsheltered walls, absolutely baked in the sun, and the arid waste on +which it stood, gave to it a wild and desolate appearance. + +We were told that already, since the British occupation of Aden, the +trade of Mocha had fallen off. It seldom happens that a steamer passes +down the Red Sea without bringing emigrants from Mocha, anxious to +establish themselves in the new settlement; and if Aden were made +a free port, there can be little doubt that it would monopolize the +whole commerce of the neighbourhood. The persons desirous to colonize +the place say, very justly, that they cannot afford to pay duties, +having to quit their own houses at a loss, and to construct others, +Aden being at present destitute of accommodation for strangers. If, +however, encouragement should be given them, they will flock thither +in great numbers; and, under proper management, there is every reason +to hope that Aden will recover all its former importance and wealth, +and become one of the most useful dependencies of the British crown. + +We were to take in coals and water at Aden, and arriving there in the +afternoon of Saturday, the 19th of October, every body determined to +go on shore, if possible, on the ensuing morning. By the kindness of +some friends, we had palanquins in waiting at day-break, which were +to convey us a distance of five miles to the place now occupied +as cantonments. Our road conducted us for a mile or two along the +sea-shore, with high crags piled on one side, a rugged path, and rocks +rising out of the water to a considerable distance. We then ascended +a height, which led to an aperture in the hills, called the Pass. +Here we found a gate and a guard of sepoys. The scenery was wild, and +though nearly destitute of vegetation--a few coarse plants occurring +here and there scarcely deserving the name--very beautiful. + +It would, perhaps, be too much to designate the bare and lofty cliffs, +which piled themselves upwards in confused masses, with the name of +mountains; they nevertheless conveyed ideas of sublimity which I had +not associated with other landscapes of a similar nature. The Pass, +narrow and enclosed on either side by winding rocks, brought us at +length down a rather steep declivity to a sort of basin, surrounded +upon three sides with lofty hills, and on the fourth by the sea. + +Cape Aden forms a high and rocky promontory, the most elevated portion +being 1,776 feet above the level of the sea. This lofty headland, when +viewed at a distance, appears like an island, in consequence of +its being connected with the interior by low ground, which, in the +vicinity of Khora Muckse, is quite a swamp. Its summits assume the +aspect of turretted peaks, having ruined forts and watch-towers on +the highest elevations. The hills are naked and barren, and the valley +little better; the whole, however, presenting a grand, picturesque, +and imposing appearance. The town of Aden lies on the east side of the +Cape, in the amphitheatre before mentioned. A sketch of its history +will be given, gathered upon the spot, in a subsequent paper, the +place being sufficiently interesting to demand a lengthened notice; +meanwhile a passing remark is called for on its present appearance. + +At first sight of Aden, it is difficult to suppose it to be the +residence of human beings, and more especially of European families. +The town, if such it may be called, consists of a few scattered houses +of stone, apparently loosely put together, with pigeon-holes for +windows, and roofs which, being flat, and apparently surrounded by a +low parapet, afford no idea of their being habitable. It is difficult +to find a comparison for these dwellings, which appeared to be +composed of nothing more than four walls, and yet, to judge from the +apertures, contained two or more stories. The greater number were +enclosed in a sort of yard or compound, the fences being formed of +long yellow reeds; the less substantial dwellings were entirely made +of these reeds, so that they looked like immense crates or cages for +domestic fowls. + +My palanquin at length stopped at a flight of steps hewn out of +the rock; and I found myself at the entrance of a habitation, +half-bungalow, half-tent; and certainly, as the permanent abode +of civilized beings, the strangest residence I had ever seen. The +uprights and frame-work were made of reeds and bamboos, lined with +thin mats, which had at one time been double; but the harbour thus +afforded for rats being found inconvenient, the outer casing had been +removed. Two good-sized apartments, with verandahs all round, and +dressing and bathing-rooms attached, were formed in this way; they +were well carpeted and well furnished, but destitute both of glass +windows and wooden doors; what are called in India _jaumps_, and +chicks of split bamboo, being the substitutes. + +Government not yet having fixed upon the site for the station intended +to be established at Aden, none of the European inhabitants have +begun to build their houses, which, it is said, are to be very +solidly constructed of stone; at present, they are scattered, in Gipsy +fashion, upon the rocks overlooking the sea, and at the time of the +year in which I visited them they enjoyed a delightfully cool breeze. +What they would be in the hot weather, it is difficult to say. The +supplies, for the most part, come from a considerable distance, but +appear to be abundant; and when at length a good understanding shall +have taken place between the British Government and the neighbouring +sheikhs, the markets will be furnished with every thing that the +countries in the vicinity produce. + +The garrison were prepared, at the period of our arrival, for the +outbreak which has since occurred. It is melancholy to contemplate the +sacrifice of life which will in all probability take place before the +Arabs will be reconciled to the loss of a territory which has for +a long time been of no use to them, but which, under its present +masters, bids fair to introduce mines of wealth into an impoverished +country. The Pasha of Egypt had long cast a covetous eye upon Aden, +and its occupation by the British took place at the precise period +requisite to check the ambitious designs of a man thirsting for +conquest, and to allay the fears of the Imaum of Muscat, who, +naturally enough, dreaded encroachments upon his territory. + +Aden had hitherto agreed very well with its European residents. The +sepoys, servants, and camp-followers, however, had suffered much both +from mental and bodily ailments. They were deprived of their usual +sources of amusement, and of their accustomed food, and languished +under that home-sickness, which the natives of India feel in a very +acute degree. The greater number of servants were discontented, and +anxious to return to their native country. This natural desire upon +their part was highly resented by their masters, who, instead of +taking the most obvious means of remedying the evil, and employing +the natives of the place, who appeared to be tractable and teachable +enough, abused and threatened to beat the unfortunate people, +convicted of what self-love styles "ingratitude." + +In a very clever work, I have seen the whole sum of the miseries of +human life comprised in one word, "servants;" and until we can procure +human beings with all the perfections of our fallen nature, and none +of our faults, to minister to our wants and wishes, the complaint, +so sickening and so general, and frequently so unjust, will be +reiterated. Anglo-Indians, however, seem to be more tormented by these +domestic plagues than any other set of people. The instant a stranger +lands upon Asiatic ground, we hear of nothing else. It is considered +to be polite conversation in the drawing-room, aid delicate-looking +women will listen with the greatest complacence to the most brutal +threats uttered by their male associates against the wretched people +whom hard fate has placed about their persons. By some mischance, +these very individuals are equally ill-served at home, the greater +number who return to England being either rendered miserable there, or +driven back to India in consequence of the impossibility of managing +their servants. As far as my own experience goes, with the exception +of the people in the _Berenice_, who were not in the slightest degree +under the control of the passengers, or, it may be said, attached to +them in any way, I have always found it easy, both at home and abroad, +to obtain good servants, at least quite as good as people, conscious +of the infirmities of humanity in their own persons, have a right to +expect. My simple rule has been, never to keep a person who did not +suit me, and to treat those who did with kindness and indulgence. The +system has always answered, and I am probably on that account the less +inclined to sympathize with persons who are eternally complaining. + +There may be some excuse at Aden for the conversation turning upon +domestic matters of this kind, and perhaps I do the station injustice +in supposing that they form a common topic. With the exception of +those persons who take pleasure in the anticipation of the improvement +of the surrounding tribes, there is very little to interest European +residents in this arid spot. Should, however, the hopes which many +enlightened individuals entertain be realized, or the prospect of +their fulfilment continue unclouded, those who now endure a dreary +exile in a barren country, and surrounded by a hostile people, will +or ought to derive much consolation from the thought, that their +employment upon a disagreeable duty may prove of the utmost benefit to +thousands of their fellow-creatures. It is pleasant to look forward to +the civilization of Abyssinia, and other more remote places, by means +of commercial intercourse with Aden. + + + + +CHAPTER VIII. + + * * * * * + +ADEN. + + * * * * * + + Commanding situation of Aden--Its importance in former times--But few + remains of its grandeur--Its facilities as a retreat for the piratical + hordes of the Desert--The loss of its trade followed by reduction + of the population--Speculations as to the probability of ultimately + resisting the Arabs--Exaggerated notions entertained by the Shiekhs of + the wealth of the British--Aden a free Port would be the Queen of the + adjacent Seas--Its advantages over Mocha--The Inhabitants of Aden--The + Jews--The Banians--The Soomalees--The Arabs--Hopes of the prosperity + of Aden--Goods in request there--Exports--Re-embarkation on the + Steamer--Want of attention--Makallah--Description of the place--Its + products--The Gazelle--Traveller in Abyssinia--Adventurous English + Travellers--Attractions of the Arab life--Arrival at Bombay. + + +Wretched and miserable as the appearance of Aden must be deemed at +the present moment, its commanding situation rendered it of great +importance in former times. During the reign of Constantine, it was an +opulent city, forming one of the great emporia for the commerce of +the East. The sole remains of the grandeur it once boasted consists of +about ninety dilapidated stone houses, the greater number of dwellings +which seem to shelter its scanty population being nothing more than +huts rudely constructed of reeds. These wretched tenements, huddled +together without the slightest attempt at regularity, occupy the +crater of an extinct volcano. Unrelieved by trees, and assimilating +in colour with the arid soil and barren hills rising around, they +scarcely convey an idea of the purpose for which they are designed. + +A stranger, entering Aden, finds it difficult to believe that he is in +the midst of an inhabited place, the houses appearing to be fewer in +number, and more insignificant, than a closer inspection proves them +to be. No splendid fragment, imposing in its ruin, records the glory +and opulence of the populous city, as it existed in the days of +Solyman the Magnificent, the era from whence it dates its decline. The +possession of Aden was eagerly contended for by the two great powers, +the Turks and the Portuguese, struggling for mastery in the East, and +when they were no longer able to maintain their rivalry, it reverted +into the hands of its ancient masters, the Arabs. The security +afforded by its natural defences, aided by the fortifications, the +work of former times, rendered it a suitable retreat for the piratical +hordes of the desert. The lawless sons of Ishmael could, from this +stronghold, rush out upon the adjacent waters, and make themselves +masters of the wealth of those adventurers who dared to encounter the +dangers of the Red Sea. + +With the loss of every thing approaching to good government, Aden lost +its trade. The system of monopoly, which enriches the sovereign at the +expense of the subject, speedily ends in ruin. The superior classes of +the inhabitants were either driven away, in consequence of the tyranny +which they endured, or, reduced to a state of destitution, perished +miserably upon the soil, until at length the traces of former +magnificence became few and faint, the once flourishing city falling +into one wide waste of desolation. The remains of a splendid aqueduct, +which was at the first survey mistaken for a Roman road; a solitary +watch-tower, and a series of broken walls, alone attest the ancient +glories of the place. + +Previous to the occupation of the British, the population of Aden +scarcely exceeded six hundred souls; it is now, independently of the +garrison, more nearly approaching to a thousand, and of these the +principal number are Jews, who, together with about fifty Banians, +have contrived to amass a little of what, by comparison, may be called +wealth. The trade of Aden, for a long time before we obtained our +present possession, was very trifling, the imports consisting of a few +English cotton cloths, together with lead, iron, and tin, which +were brought by Buglas on their way to Mocha; rice, dates, and small +numbers of cattle, likewise, coming from neighbouring places; while +the exports were limited to a little coffee, millet, and a few drugs. + +At the period of my visit to Aden, the garrison were in almost +momentary expectation of an attack from the Arabs, who had gathered +to the amount of five thousand in the neighbourhood, and kept the new +occupants continually upon the alert. Of course, in such a state of +affairs, great differences of opinion existed respecting the ultimate +fate of this interesting place. Many acute persons consider the +project of colonizing a barren spot, surrounded by hostile tribes, by +a handful of soldiers from India, chimerical, especially in the teeth +of predictions which have for so long a period been fulfilled to the +letter. It is stated that the Imaum of Muscat asked, in astonishment, +whether we were mad enough to contemplate the subjugation of the +Arabs, the sons of his father Ishmael; since we could not be so +ignorant of our own Scriptures as not to know that their hands were to +be eternally against every man, and every man's hand against theirs. +But, although the Arabs should continue hostile, while we are masters +of the sea, and can strengthen Aden so completely upon the land-side, +as to render it, what many people believe it can be made, a second +Gibraltar, we have a wide field for commercial speculation in the +opposite coast of Africa. + +Aden is, at present, a very expensive possession, and the long period +which has elapsed since our occupation, without preparations +having been commenced for a permanent residence, has occasioned an +apprehension that it may be ultimately abandoned. Many persons are, +however, sanguine in the hope that, as soon as scientific men have +decided upon the best site for a cantonment, buildings will be erected +for the reception of the garrison. These, it is confidently expected, +will be upon a grand scale, and of solid construction. The greater +portion of the materials must be brought from distant places, and +already some of the European inhabitants are conveying from Bombay +those portable houses which are commonly set up during the cold season +on the Esplanade, and which will afford a great improvement upon +the dwellings of bamboos, reeds, and mats, which at present form +the abodes of the officers of this establishment. It has been +satisfactorily ascertained, that the clearing out and repairing the +old tanks and wells will be sufficient to secure an ample supply of +water for a very extensive population, the report of those gentlemen +employed in analyzing its quality being highly favourable. + +A little allowance must, of course, be made for the sanguine nature of +the expectations formed by persons whose imaginations are dazzled by +the splendid visions of the future arising before them; still, enough +appears to have been demonstrated to justify a strong hope that there +are no serious difficulties in the way of our permanent occupation of +a place which we have succeeded in rescuing from Arab tyranny. It will +be long, perhaps, before the neighbouring sheikhs will consent to an +amicable arrangement with the British authorities of Aden, for they +at present entertain the most exaggerated notions of the wealth of its +new possessors. + +The English, with their usual thoughtless improvidence, threw about +their money so carelessly, that, soon after their arrival, every +article of household consumption doubled and trebled in price, +the remuneration for labour rising in proportion. This improvident +expenditure has had the effect of making the people discontented. +Imagining our resources to be inexhaustible, they do not know how much +to ask for their commodities or their services, and it will require +great firmness and discretion, on the part of the persons in +authority, to settle the fair price for both. The erection of new +houses, which are called for by nearly every fresh arrival, even in +their present light construction, serves very materially to enrich the +inhabitants of Aden, the natural consequence being an increase of the +industrious portion of the population, while it may be confidently +expected that the commencement of superior works will attract a +superior class of persons to the place. + +The present Resident is a strenuous advocate for the abolition of all +duties, at least for a time; and should the representations made +by him, and other persons well acquainted with the character and +resources of the surrounding countries, succeed in inducing the +Government of India to render Aden a free port, it would soon become +the queen of the adjacent seas. The town of Senna is only at the +distance of seven or eight days' journey for camels and merchandize. +The coffee districts are actually nearer to it than to Mocha, and +the road equally safe and convenient; other large towns in Yemen +are within an easy journey, and the rich and populous places in the +province of Hydramut are open for its trade. + +The mountains to the north of Aden produce gums, frankincense, and +coffee, which would soon find their way to so promising a market. Its +harbour being immediately to the north of Barbar, vessels during the +north-eastern monsoon would reach it with the produce of Africa in +twenty-four hours, returning with British and Indian produce in the +same time. All the exports of Hanall, and other large interior towns +on the opposite coast, consisting of coffee, gums, myrrh, hides, +elephants' teeth, gold dust, ostrich feathers, &c, would be conveyed +to Aden, to be exchanged for piece goods, chintzes, cutlery, and rice; +all of which would find a ready market. The manufactures of India +and of Great Britain would thus be very extensively introduced, there +being good reason to believe that they would be largely purchased in +the provinces of Yemen and Hydramut. + +Amongst the great advantages which Aden possesses over Mocha, is the +situation of its harbour, which may be entered by a ship or boat at +any period of the year, and quitted with the same facility: whereas +its rival port is so difficult of access in the months of March, +April, and May, that boats are sometimes six, seven, or eight days +getting to the straits, a distance of forty miles only. These are +considerations worthy of the attention of merchants, the length of the +voyage not being the sole source of annoyance, since vessels taking +cargoes at Aden save the great wear and tear occasioned in their +return down the Red Sea. + +Perhaps, considering the difficulty of conciliating the semi-barbarous +tribes in the neighbourhood, the trade and population of Aden have +increased as much as we could reasonably hope; but when peace shall at +length be established, it will doubtless attract merchants and Banians +from Surat, as well as all other adjacent places. If at this moment +our expectations have not been completely answered, we have at least +the satisfaction of knowing that, besides having saved the Red Sea +from the encroachments of the Pasha of Egypt, we have anticipated +a rival power, which has already derived greater advantage from our +supineness, with regard to our Eastern possessions, than is desirable. + +The Americans, during 1833-4-5, had a small squadron looking all about +for a spot which they could turn to good account. Socotra, from its +convenient position between Africa and Arabia, proved a point of +attraction, and had not Capt. Haines, of the Indian Navy, promptly +taken possession, in the name of Great Britain, they would in all +probability have succeeded in effecting a settlement. With their usual +attention to the interests of their commerce, the Americans have a +resident permanently stationed at Zanzibar, and have made advantageous +arrangements with the Imaum of Muscat, whereby the trade with the +United States has greatly increased; American ships are constantly +arriving, with piece-goods, glass-ware, &c, and returning with +profitable cargoes, the produce of Africa. + +The inhabitants of Aden appear to be a peaceable race, generally well +affected to the government, from which they cannot fail to derive +advantage. The Jews, as I have before mentioned, are the most +important, both in consequence of their number and of their superior +wealth; they belong to the tribe of Judah, and are very industrious, +being the manufacturers of the place. + +It is by the Jews and their families, the females assisting, that a +coarse kind of cloth, employed for their own garments, and also sold +to strangers, is spun and woven. This cloth is in much esteem +amongst the Arabs: when prepared for them, it is dyed blue, sometimes +ornamented with red borders, indigo being employed, together with +extracts from other plants. The women generally wear a single loose +garment, covering the head with a handkerchief when they leave the +house; they do not, however, conceal their faces. Previous to the +occupation of Aden, the Jewesses were remarkable for the propriety of +their manners, but as they are esteemed handsome, and moreover attract +by their good temper and intelligence, it is to be feared that they +will meet with many temptations to depart from the decorum they have +hitherto maintained. Like their sex and peculiar race, they are +fond of ornaments, adorning themselves with large silver ear-rings, +bracelets, necklaces, and armlets. Hitherto, whatever wealth they +possessed, they were obliged to conceal, the Arabs proving very severe +and oppressive masters; their prospects are now brightening, and they +have already shown a disposition to profit by the new order of things, +having opened shops in the bazaar, and commenced trading in a way they +never ventured upon before. + +Nor is it in spinning and weaving alone that the Jews of Aden excel; +artizans in silver and copper are to be found amongst them, together +with stone-cutters, and other handicrafts-men. They have a school for +the education of their male youth, the females not having yet enjoyed +this advantage, in consequence of the intolerance of the Arabs, who +view with prejudiced eyes every attempt to emancipate women from the +condition to which they have been so long reduced. + +The means of instruction possessed by the Jews of Aden are not very +extensive, a few printed Bibles and MS. extracts forming the whole +of their literature. It has been thought that missionaries would here +find a fair field for their exertions; but, unfortunately, the most +promising places in the East are, by some mistake, either of ignorance +or ambition, left wholly destitute of Christian teachers. While the +pledges of Government are compromised in India, and its stability +threatened, by the daring attempts to make converts at the +presidencies, and other considerable places, where success is +attended with great noise and clamour, many portions of the Company's +territories, in which much quiet good might be effected, are left +entirely without religious aid. + +The Banians, though small in number, rank next to the Jews in +importance, and are, perhaps, more wealthy; they are not, however, +so completely identified with the soil, for they do not bring their +families with them when emigrating to Aden from the places of their +birth. The greater number come from Cutch, arriving at an early period +of life, and with the craft that usually distinguishes them, studying +the character of the Arabs, and making the most of it. They are not +esteemed such good subjects to the new government as the Jews, their +expectations of benefit from a change of masters, in consequence of +their having proved the chief gainers heretofore, being less sanguine. + +The Soomalees are natives of Barbora, and are in number about two +hundred. They employ themselves in making baskets, mats, and fans, +from the leaves of a species of palm-tree; they are not so active and +industrious as the Jews, but the younger portion, if brought up in +European families, might, with the advantage of good tuition, become +useful as servants and labourers. They are Mohamedans, but not very +strict, either in their religious or moral principles, violating oaths +sworn upon the _Koran_, and cheating and thieving whenever they can. +The love of money, however, is a strong stimulus to improvement, and +where it exists, or can be created, the case is far more hopeful than +when the wants and desires are both limited. The Soomalee women are +reckoned handsome, though in that respect they cannot compare with the +Jewesses, their complexions being much darker and their hair coarse; +they have tall, well-proportioned figures, and are as attentive to +their dress and appearance as their poverty will admit. The Arabs are +the least prepossessing of all the inhabitants of Aden, and it will +be long before any confidence can be placed in them. They religiously +conceal their women, and are a bigoted, prejudiced race, disaffected +of course to the new government, and shy of intercourse with the +British occupants. + +That the hopes entertained of the prosperity of Aden have not been +more speedily realized, may be attributed to the prevalent belief that +its new masters could not maintain their ground against the hostile +Arabs of the neighbourhood. It is the opinion of a competent judge, +that, "as soon as the inhabitants of distant countries feel convinced +that our occupation of Aden is intended to be a _permanent_, and not a +temporary measure, they will establish agencies there under our flag, +in preference to any other, and open an extensive traffic." The same +authority states that "it is the opinion of the Banians and Arabs, +that Aden _will regain_ her former commercial renown." + +With respect to the goods at present in requisition, or likely to meet +a sale, at Aden, we learn from the report above quoted, that "of the +manufactures of Europe, coloured handkerchiefs and hardware are +only in demand, though longcloths are procurable and are sometimes +purchased by the Arabs; but these articles are priced so high, as to +prevent any great consumption of them. From what I observed of the +Arab disposition and taste, I certainly believe that coloured cotton +goods of _fast_ colours, and of patterns similar to those elsewhere +specified, if offered at rates somewhat reasonable, would in a very +short period meet with an extensive sale, and be rapidly introduced +into common use amongst the Arabs of the interior. The novelty of the +experiment would at first induce the Arabs to become purchasers, when, +finding the articles _good_, it is but reasonable to anticipate an +extensive demand. The colours should be particularly attended to, for +the certainty of obtaining goods of _fast colours_ would alone ensure +the articles in question a speedy sale. The handkerchiefs that have +already been introduced into Aden are of the worst sort relative +to colour, generally becoming after two or three washings white, or +nearly so; thus it cannot be wondered at if these goods meet with but +a poor demand." + +The ravages committed by the army of the Pasha of Egypt, in the +fertile districts of the neighbourhood of Aden, have been prejudicial +to the interests of the new settlement, and perhaps so long as the +hope of plunder can be entertained by the petty princes, who rule +the adjacent districts, they will be unwilling to wait for the +slower advantages derivable from commerce. The apparently reckless +expenditure of the British residents, and the princely pay given to +the soldiers of the garrison, have offered so dazzling a prospect +of gain, that they (the native chiefs) will have some difficulty in +abandoning the hope of making themselves masters, at a single blow, of +all the treasure brought to their shores. It is said that some Turks, +deserters from Mehemet Ali, who took refuge in Aden, upon being made +acquainted with the amount of pay given to the British troops, and the +regularity with which it was issued, exclaimed, "God is great, and the +English are immortal!" + +During the proper seasons, Aden is well supplied with fruit; its trade +in honey and wax might become very important, the adjacent countries +yielding abundance of both, and of so fine a quality, as to compete +with the produce of the hives of the Mediterranean. Drugs are +procurable in equal abundance, together with perfumes and spices. The +European inhabitants are, of course, compelled to send to Bombay +for those luxuries which habit has rendered necessary; the constant +communication with the presidency renders them easily procurable, +while the intercourse with India and England, by means of the +steamers, relieves the monotony which would otherwise be severely +felt. + +I could have spent two or three days with great pleasure at Aden, +inquiring into its early history, present condition, and future +prospects, and regretted much when a summons reached me to depart. We +entertained a hope that the steamer would come round and take us off +at the northern point; however, we were obliged to return the way we +came. There are, and have been since its occupation, several English +ladies living at Aden, but whether they have not shown themselves +sufficiently often to render their appearance familiar, or the +curiosity of the people is not easily satisfied, I cannot say; but I +found myself an object of great attention to the women and children. + +The sun having declined, the whole of the population of Aden seemed to +be abroad, and many well-dressed and good-looking women were seated on +the rude steps and broken walls of the stone houses before-mentioned. +As they saw me smiling upon them, they drew nearer, salaamed, and +laughed in return, and appeared to examine my dress as closely as +the open doors of the palanquin would permit. Some of the very little +children turned away in horror from a white face, but the greater +number seemed much pleased with the notice taken of them. While +waiting a few minutes for my party, my bearers wanted to drive them +away, but this I would not permit, and we carried on a very amicable +intercourse by signs, both being apparently mutually delighted +with each other. Their vivacity and good-humour made a favourable +impression upon my mind, and I should like to have an opportunity +of becoming better acquainted with them, feeling strongly tempted to +proceed to Aden on my return to England in a sailing vessel, and await +there the arrival of a steamer to convey me up the Red Sea to Cosseir +or to Suez. + +I was offered a present of a milch-goat at Aden, but not being able to +consult with the captain of the _Berenice_ concerning its introduction +on board, I did not like to allow the poor creature to run any risk +of neglect. Its productiveness would soon have diminished on board a +steamer, and it was so useful in a place like Aden, that I could not +feel justified in taking it away for my own gratification. I obtained, +however, a bottle of milk, and when I got on board, having dined +early, and being moreover exhausted with my journey, as I was only +recovering from an attack of fever, I wished to have some tea. This +was too great an indulgence to be granted by the petty authorities +who ruled over the passengers. Unfortunately, upon leaving Suez, I +had given away all my tea to my servant, Mohammed, who was fond of it, +nothing doubting that I should be able to procure as much as I pleased +on board the steamer. The refusal was the more provoking, as there was +plenty of boiling water ready, and I had humbly limited my request to +a spoonful of tea. Under the circumstances, I was obliged to content +myself with milk and water: had the captain or the surgeon of the +vessel been at hand, I should doubtless have been supplied with every +thing I wanted, but in their absence, it was impossible to procure a +single article. Upon one occasion, while tea was serving, a passenger +in the saloon asked for a cup, and was told to go upon deck for it. + +I also procured a supply of soda water at Aden. I had suffered much +from the want of this refreshing beverage during my fever, the supply +taken on board having been exhausted on the voyage up. The passengers +down the Red Sea have the disadvantage of sailing with exhausted +stores. It seems hardly fair to them, especially in cases of illness, +that the whole of any particular article should be given to the people +who embark at Bombay, they having a right to expect that, as they pay +the same price, a portion should be reserved for their use. + +On the second day after our departure from Aden--that is, the 22nd +of October--we arrived at Makallah. It was mid-day before the vessel +ceased to ply her engines, and though invited to go on shore, as +we could not penetrate beyond the walls of the town, we thought it +useless to exchange our cabins for a hot room in the mansion of its +ruler. The town of Makallah, which forms the principal commercial +depôt of the south-west of Arabia, is built upon a rocky platform of +some length, but of very inconsiderable width, backed by a perfect +wall of cliffs, and bounded in front by the sea. It seems tolerably +well built for an Arabian town, many of the houses being of a very +respectable appearance, two or more stories in height, and ornamented +with small turrets and cupolas: the nakib, or governor's residence, is +large, with a high square tower, which gives it the air of a citadel. + +There is not a tree or shrub to be seen, the absence of vegetation +investing the place with a character of its own, and one that +harmonizes with the bold and bare rocks which bound the coast on +either side. We were told that, between two ranges of hills close to +the entrance of the town, a beautiful green valley occurred, watered +by delicious springs, and shaded by date-trees. Had we arrived at +an early period of the morning, we might have spent the day on this +delightful place, proceeding to it on the backs of camels or donkeys, +or even on foot; but it being impossible to get thither while the +sun was in full power, we were obliged to content ourselves with a +description of its beauties. + +Although a very good understanding exists between our Government and +that of Makallah, which has for some time been a depôt of coal for the +use of the steamers, it is not advisable for visitors to proceed very +far from the town without protection. A midshipman belonging to the +Indian navy having gone on shore for the purpose of visiting the +valley before-mentioned, and straying away to some distance, attracted +by the beauty of the scenery, was suddenly surrounded by a party of +Bedouins, who robbed him of all he possessed, cutting off the buttons +from his clothes, under the idea that they were of gold--an impression +which obtains all over the coast, and which inspired the people who +made the last assault upon Aden with the hope of a rich booty. + +The population of Makallah is estimated at about 4,600 people, of +various tribes and countries, the chief portion being either of the +Beni Hassan and Yafái tribes, together with Banians, Kurachies, and +emigrants from nearly all parts of the adjacent coasts. It carries +on rather a considerable trade in gums, hides, and drugs, which, with +coffee, form the exports, receiving in return iron, lead, manufactured +cloths, earthenware, and rice, from Bombay, and all the productions of +the neighbouring countries, slaves included, in which the traffic is +said to be very great. + +The gentlemen who went on shore purchased very pretty and convenient +baskets, wrought in various colours, and also quantities of +sweetmeats, which are much in esteem in India; these are composed of +honey and flour, delicately made, the honey being converted into a +soft kind of paste, with a coating of the flour on the outside. +These sweetmeats were nicely packed in straw baskets, of a different +manufacture from those before-mentioned, and were very superior to +the common sort which is brought from the coast in small coarse +earthenware basins, exceedingly unattractive in their appearance. + +The interior of the country is said to be very beautiful, abundantly +watered by refreshing springs, and shaded by groves of date-trees. +Amongst its animal productions, the most beautiful is the gazelle, +which, properly speaking, is only to be found in Arabia; a delicate +and lovely creature, with the soft black eye which has been from time +immemorial the theme of poets. The gazelle is easily tamed, becoming +in a short time very familiar, and being much more gentle, as well as +more graceful, than the common antelope. Its movements are the most +airy and elegant imaginable. It is fond of describing a circle in +a succession of bounds, jumping off the ground on four legs, and +touching it lightly as it wheels round and round. At other times, it +pirouettes upon the two fore feet, springing round at the same time +like an opera-dancer; in fact, it would appear as if Taglioni, and all +our most celebrated _artistes_, had taken lessons from the gazelle, +so much do their _chefs-d'oeuvre_ resemble its graceful motions. +When domesticated, the gazelle loves to feed upon roses, delighting +apparently in the scent as well as the taste. It is the fashion in the +East to add perfume to the violet, and I found these gazelles would +eat with much zest roses that had been plentifully sprinkled with +their extract, the _goolabee paanee_, so greatly in request. The +gazelle is also very fond of crisply-toasted bread, a taste which must +be acquired in domestication. It is a courageous animal, and will come +readily to the assault, butting fiercely when attacked. In taking a +gazelle away from Arabia, it should be carefully guarded against cold +and damp, and if not provided with water-proof covering to its feet, +would soon die if exposed to the wet decks of a ship. + +We had lost at Aden our fellow-passenger, whom I have mentioned as +having assumed the Turkish dress for the purpose of penetrating +into the interior of Abyssinia. He depended, in a great measure, for +comfort and safety, upon two native priests, whom he had brought with +him from Cairo, and who, in return for his liberality, had promised +all the protection and assistance in their power. He left us with +the good wishes of all the party, and not without some fears in the +breasts of those who contemplated the hazards which he ran. Young and +good-looking, he had, with pardonable, but perhaps dangerous, vanity, +studied the becoming in his costume, which was composed of the very +finest materials. His long outer garment, of a delicate woollen +texture, was lined throughout with silk, and the crimson cap, which +he wore upon his head, was converted into a turban by a piece of gold +muslin wound round it. He expected nothing less than to be plundered +and stripped of this fine apparel, and it will be well for him should +he escape with life. The adventure and the romance of the undertaking +possessed great charms, and he talked, after spending some years in +a wild and wandering career, of sitting down quietly in his paternal +halls, introducing as many of the Egyptian customs as would be +tolerated in a Christian country. + +A short residence in Cairo proves very captivating to many Englishmen; +they like the independent sort of life which they lead; their perfect +freedom from all the thralls imposed by society at home, and, when +tired of dreaming away existence after the indolent fashion of +the East, plunge into the surrounding deserts, and enjoy all the +excitement attendant upon danger. Numerous anecdotes were related to +me of the hardships sustained by young English travellers, who, led by +the spirit of adventure, had trusted themselves to the Bedouins, and, +though escaping with life, had suffered very severely from hunger, +thirst, and fatigue. I have no reason to doubt the veracity of one of +these enterprising tourists, who assured me that he had passed through +the holy city of Mecca. According to his account, he had made friends +with an Arab boy, who offered to afford him a glimpse of the city, +provided he would consent to pass rapidly through it, at an early hour +in the morning. Accordingly, disguised in Mohamedan garb, and mounted +upon a camel, they entered and quitted it at opposite ends, without +exciting curiosity or remark. Of course, he could see nothing but the +exterior of the houses and mosques, only obtaining a partial view of +these; but, considering the difficulty and peril of the undertaking, +the pleasure of being able to say that he had succeeded in an +achievement which few would be daring enough to attempt, was worth +running some risks. + +Notwithstanding the intolerant spirit generally manifested by the +Arabs, those English strangers who embrace their way of life for a +time frequently attach them very strongly to their persons, obtaining +concessions from them which could scarcely be expected from a +people so bigoted in their religious opinions, and entertaining so +contemptible an opinion of those who are followers of other creeds. In +spite of the faults of his character--for he is frequently deceitful, +treacherous, cruel, and covetous--the Arab of the desert is usually +much respected by the dwellers in towns. His independent spirit +is admired by those who could not exist without the comforts and +conveniences of life, which he disdains. It is no uncommon sight, +either at Cairo or Alexandria, to see a handsome young Bedouin, +splendidly attired, lodging in the open street by the side of his +camel, for nothing will persuade him to sleep in a house; he +carries the habits of the desert into the city, and in the midst of +congregated thousands, dwells apart. + +We, who merely crossed the desert from Cairo to Suez, could form +little idea of the pleasures which a longer sojourn and more extended +researches would afford--the poetry of the life which the Arab leads. +Nothing, I was told, could exceed the enjoyments of the night, when, +after a day of burning heat, the cool breezes came down from elevated +valleys, occurring between the ranges of hills which I had observed +with so much interest. This balmy air brings with it perfumes wafted +from sweet-scented flowers, which spring spontaneously in the green +spots known to the gazelle, who repairs to them to drink. Although +the dews are heavy, the Arab requires no more protection than that +afforded by his blanket, and he lies down under the most glorious +canopy, the broad vault of heaven with its countless spangles, no +artificial object intervening throughout the large circle of that wide +horizon. Here, his ablutions, prayers, and evening-meal concluded, +he either sinks into profound repose, or listens to the tales of +his companions, of daring deeds and battles long ago, or the equally +interesting though less exciting narratives of passing events; some +love-story between persons of hostile tribes, or the affection of a +betrothed girl for a stranger, and its melancholy consequences. + +Notwithstanding the slight estimation in which the sex is held by the +fierce and jealous Arab--jealous more from self-love than from any +regard to the object that creates this feeling--there is still much of +the romantic to be found in his domestic history. English travellers, +who have acquired a competent knowledge of the language, may collect +materials for poems as tragical and touching as those which Lord Byron +loved to weave. I could relate several in this place, picked up by my +fellow-travellers, but as they may at some period or other desire +to give them to the public themselves, it would be scarcely fair to +anticipate their intention. + +We now began to look out with some anxiety for the arrival of the +steamer at Bombay, speculating upon the chances of finding friends +able to receive us. As we drew nearer and nearer, the recollection of +the good hotels which had opened their hospitable doors for us in +the most unpromising places, caused us to lament over the absence of +similar establishments at the scene of our destination. Bombay has +been aptly denominated the landing-place of India; numbers of persons +who have no acquaintance upon the island pass through it on their way +to Bengal, or to the provinces, and if arriving by the Red Sea, are +totally unprovided with the means of making themselves comfortable in +the tents that may be hired upon their landing. + +A tent, to a stranger in India, appears to be the most forlorn +residence imaginable, and many cannot be reconciled to it, even +after long custom. To those, however, who do not succeed in obtaining +invitations to private houses, a tent is the only resource. It seems +scarcely possible that the number of persons, who are obliged to +live under canvas on the Esplanade, would not prefer apartments at a +respectable hotel, if one should be erected for the purpose; yet it +is said that such an establishment would not answer. Bombay can never +obtain the pre-eminence over Calcutta, which it is so anxious to +accomplish, until it will provide the accommodation for visitors which +the City of Palaces has afforded during several years past. However +agreeable the overland journey may be, it cannot be performed without +considerable fatigue. + +The voyage down the Red Sea, in warm weather especially, occasions +a strong desire for rest; even those persons, therefore, who are so +fortunate as to be carried off to friends' houses, immediately upon +their arrival, would much prefer the comfort and seclusion of a +hotel, for the first day or two at least. The idea of going amongst +strangers, travel-soiled and travel-worn, is anything but agreeable, +more particularly with the consciousness that a week's baths will +scarcely suffice to remove the coal-dust collected in the steamers of +the Red Sea: for my own part, I contemplated with almost equal alarm +the prospect of presenting myself immediately upon the termination of +my voyage, or of being left, on the charge of eight rupees _per diem_, +to the tender mercies of the vessel. + +We entered the harbour of Bombay in the evening of the 29th of +October, too late to contemplate the beauty of its scenery, there +being unfortunately no moon. As soon as we dropped anchor, a scene of +bustle and excitement took place. The boxes containing the mails were +all brought upon deck, the vessel was surrounded with boats, and the +first news that greeted our ears--news that was communicated with +great glee--was the damage done by fire to the _Atalanta_ steamer. +This open manifestation, by the officers of the Indian navy, of +dislike to a service to which they belong, is, to say the least of it, +ill-judged. A rapid increase in the number of armed steam-vessels may +be calculated upon, while the destruction of half of those at present +employed would scarcely retard the progress of this mighty power--a +power which may alter the destinies of half the world. The hostility, +therefore, of persons who cannot hope by their united opposition to +effect the slightest change in the system, becomes contemptible. + +It is a wise proverb which recommends us not to show our teeth unless +we can bite. To expose the defects of steamers, may produce their +remedy; but to denounce them altogether, is equally useless and +unwise, since, however inconvenient they may be, no person, with +whom despatch is an object, will hesitate to prefer them to a +sailing-vessel; while every officer, who takes the Queen's or the +Company's pay, should consider it to be his duty to uphold the service +which tends to promote the interests of his country. + + + + +CHAPTER IX. + + * * * * * + +BOMBAY. + + * * * * * + + Contrast between landing at Bombay and at Calcutta--First feelings + those of disappointment--Aspect of the place improves--Scenery of the + Island magnificent, abounding with fine Landscapes--Luxuriance and + elegance of the Palms--Profusion and contrast of the Trees--Multitude + of large Houses in Gardens--Squalid, dirty appearance of the + Native Crowd--Costume of the Natives--Inferior to the Costume of + Bengal--Countenances not so handsome--The Drive to the Fort--The + Burrah Bazaar--Parsee Houses--"God-shops" of the Jains--General use + of Chairs amongst the Natives--Interior of the Native Houses--The + Sailors' Home--The Native Town--Improvements--The Streets animated + and picturesque--Number of Vehicles--The Native Females--The Parsee + Women--The Esplanade--Tents and Bungalows--The Fort--The China + Bazaar--A Native School--Visit to a Parsee Warehouse--Seal ornamental + China-ware--Apprehension of Fire in the Fort--Houses fired by + Rats--Illumination of Native Houses--Discordant noise of Native + Magic--The great variety of Religions in Bombay productive of + lamp-lighting and drumming. + + +The bunder, or pier, where passengers disembark upon their arrival in +Bombay, though well-built and convenient, offers a strong contrast +to the splendours of Chandpaul Ghaut in Calcutta; neither are the +bunder-boats at all equal in elegance to the budgerows, bohlias, and +other small craft, which we find upon the Hooghley. There is nothing +to indicate the wealth or the importance of the presidency to be +seen at a glance; the Scottish church, a white-washed building of no +pretensions, being the most striking object from the sea. Landward, a +range of handsome houses flank so dense a mass of buildings, occupying +the interior of the Fort, as to make the whole appear more like a +fortified town than a place of arms, as the name would denote. The +tower of the cathedral, rising in the centre, is the only feature in +the scene which boasts any architectural charm; and the Esplanade, +a wide plain, stretching from the ramparts to the sea, is totally +destitute of picturesque beauty. + +The first feelings, therefore, are those of disappointment, and it +is not until the eye has been accustomed to the view, that it becomes +pleased with many of the details; the interest increasing with the +development of other and more agreeable features, either not seen at +all, or seen through an unfavourable medium. The aspect of the place +improved, as, after crossing the Esplanade or plain, the carriage +drove along roads cut through palm-tree woods, and at length, when I +reached my place of destination, I thought that I had never seen any +thing half so beautiful. + +The apartments which, through the kindness of hospitable friends, I +called my own, commanded an infinite variety of the most magnificent +scenery imaginable. To the left, through a wide vista between two +hills, which seemed cleft for the purpose of admitting the view, lay +the placid waters of the ocean, land-locked, as it were, by the +bold bluff of distant islands, and dotted by a fairy fleet of +fishing-boats, with their white sails glittering in the sun. In front, +over a beautifully-planted fore-ground, I looked down upon a perfect +sea of palms, the taller palmyras lifting their proud heads above the +rest, and all so intermingled with other foliage, as to produce the +richest variety of hues. This fine wood, a spur of what may be termed +a forest further to the right, skirted a broad plain which stretched +out to the beach, the bright waters beyond expanding and melting +into the horizon, while to the right it was bounded by a hilly ridge +feathered with palm-trees, the whole bathed in sunshine, and forming +altogether a perfect Paradise. + +Every period of the day, and every variation in the state of the +atmosphere, serve to bring out new beauties in this enchanting scene; +and the freshness and delicious balm of the morning, the gorgeous +splendour of mid-day, the crimson and amber pomps of evening, and the +pale moonlight, tipping every palm-tree top with silver, produce an +endless succession of magical effects. In walking about the garden and +grounds of this delightful residence, we are continually finding +some new point from which the view appears to be more beautiful than +before. Upon arriving at the verge of the cleft between the two hills, +we look down from a considerable elevation over rocky precipitous +ground, with a village (Mazagong) skirting the beach, while the +prospect, widening, shows the whole of the harbour, with the high +ghauts forming the back-ground. + +Turning to the other side, behind the hill which shuts out the sea, +the landscape is of the richest description--roads winding through +thick plantations, houses peeping from embowering trees, and an +umbrageous forest beyond. The whole of Bombay abounds with landscapes +which, if not equal to that from Chintapooglee Hill, which I have, +vainly I fear, attempted to describe, boast beauties peculiarly their +own, the distinguishing feature being the palm-tree. It is impossible +to imagine the luxuriance and elegance of this truly regal family as +it grows in Bombay, each separate stage, from the first appearance +of the different species, tufting the earth with those stately crowns +which afterwards shoot up so grandly, being marked with beauty. The +variety of the foliage of the coco-nut, the brab, and others, +the manner of their growth, differing according to the different +directions taken, and the exquisite grouping which continually occurs, +prevent the monotony which their profusion might otherwise create, +the general effect being, under all circumstances, absolutely perfect. +Though the principal, the palm is far from being the only tree, and +while frequently forming whole groves, it is as frequently blended +with two species of cypress, the peepul, mango, banian, wild cinnamon, +and several others. + +In addition to the splendour of its wood and water, Bombay is +embellished by fragments of dark rock, which force themselves through +the soil, roughening the sides of the hills, and giving beauty to +the precipitous heights and shelving beach. Though the island is +comparatively small, extensively cultivated and thickly inhabited, +it possesses its wild and solitary places, its rains deeply seated +in thick forests, and its lonely hills covered with rock, and thinly +wooded by the eternal palm-tree; hills which, in consequence of +the broken nature of the ground, and their cavernous recesses, are +difficult of access. It is in these fastnesses that the hyenas find +secure retreats, and the Parsees construct their "towers of silence." + +There is little, or indeed nothing, in the scenery that comes under +the denomination of jungle, the island being intersected in every +part with excellent roads, macadamized with the stone that abounds +so conveniently for the purpose. These roads are sometimes skirted by +walls of dark stone, which harmonize well with the trees that +never fail to spread their shade above; at others, with beautiful +hedge-rows, while across the flats and along the Esplanade, a +water-course or a paling forms the enclosures. + +The multitude of large houses, each situated in the midst of gardens +or ornamented grounds, gives a very cheerful appearance to the roads +of Bombay; but what the stranger on his first arrival in India is +said to be most struck with is, the number and beauty of the +native population. Probably, had I never seen Bengal, I might +have experienced similar delight and astonishment; but with the +recollections of Calcutta fresh in my mind, I felt disappointed. + +Accustomed to multitudes of fine-looking well-dressed people, with +their ample and elegant drapery of spotless white muslin, I could not +help contrasting them with the squalid, dirty appearance of the +native crowd of Bombay. Nor is it so easy at first to distinguish the +varieties of the costume through the one grand characteristic of dirt; +nor, with the exception of the peculiar Parsee turban, which is very +ugly, the Persian cap, and the wild garb of the Arab, do they differ +so widely as I expected. For instance; the Hindus and Mohamedans are +not so easily recognized as in Bengal. The vest in ordinary wear, +instead of being fitted tightly to the figure, and having that +peculiarly elegant cut which renders it so graceful, seems nothing +more than a loose bed-gown, coarse in materials and tasteless in +shape: this forms the most common costume. The higher classes of +Parsees wear an ample and not unbecoming dress; the upper garment +of white cambric muslin fits tightly to the waist, where it is bound +round with a sash or cummurbund of white muslin; it then descends in +an exceedingly full skirt to the feet, covering a pair of handsome +silk trowsers. A Parsee group, thus attired, in despite of their mean +and unbecoming head-dress, make a good appearance. + +The Arabs wear handkerchiefs or shawls, striped with red, yellow, and +blue, bound round their heads, or hanging in a fanciful manner over +their turbans. The Persian dress is grave and handsome, and there +are, besides, Nubians, Chinese, and many others; but the well-dressed +people must be looked for in the carriages, few of the same +description are to be seen on foot, which gives to a crowd in Bengal +so striking an appearance. In fact, a Bengallee may be recognized at +a glance by his superior costume, and in no place is the contrast more +remarkable than in the halls and entrances of Anglo-Indian houses. The +servants, if not in livery--and it is difficult to get them to +wear one, the dignity of caste interfering--are almost invariably +ill-dressed and slovenly in their appearance. We see none of the +beautifully plaited and unsullied white turbans; none of the fine +muslin dresses and well-folded cummurbunds; the garments being +coarse, dirty, scanty, and not put on to advantage. Neither are the +countenances so handsome or the forms so fine; for though a very +considerable degree of beauty is to be found of person and feature +amid many classes of Parsees, Jews, Hindus, and Mohamedans, it is not +so general as in Bengal, where the features are usually so finely cut, +and the eyes so splendid. + +Nevertheless, although my admiration has never been so strongly +excited, and I was in the first instance greatly disappointed, every +time I go abroad I become more reconciled to this change, and more +gratified by the various objects which attract my attention; and there +are few things that please me more than a drive to the Fort. + +It is very difficult, perhaps impossible, to convey any idea of +the lively scene which is presented in this excursion, or the great +variety of features which it embraces. Enclosures sprinkled over with +palm-trees, and filled with a herd of buffaloes, occur close to a +farm-house, which looks absolutely English; then we come to a +cluster of huts of the most miserable description, occupying some low +situation, placed absolutely on the ground, and scantily thatched with +palm branches; stately mansions now arise to view, and then there is +a row of small but apparently comfortable dwellings, habitations being +thickly scattered over fields and gardens, until we reach what has +been denominated the Black Town, but which is now generally known as +the Burrah Bazaar. This is now a broad street, and, without exception, +one of the most curious places I have ever beheld. It is said to have +been much improved during late administrations, and, forming the high +road to the Fort, is the avenue most frequented in the native town +by Europeans. The buildings on either side are very irregular, and of +various descriptions; some consist of ranges of small shops, with +a story above in a very dilapidated and tumble-down condition. Then +comes a row of large mansions of three floors, which look very much +like the toy baby-houses constructed for children in England, the +windows being so close together, and the interiors so public; +others intervene, larger, more solid, and irregular, but exceedingly +picturesque. + +Most of the better kind of houses are ascended by a flight of +steps, which leads to a sort of verandah, formed by the floor above +projecting over it, and being supported by wooden pillars or other +frame-work in front. In the Parsee houses of this kind, there is +usually a niche in this lower portion for a lamp, which is kept always +burning. In some places, the houses are enclosed in courtyards, and +at others a range of dwellings, not very unlike the alms-houses in +England, are divided from the road by a low wall, placed a few yards +in the front, and entered at either end by gateways. These houses have +a very comfortable appearance, and the shading of a few palm-trees +completes a rather pretty picture. There are two mosques, one on +either side of this street, which are handsomely constructed, and +would be great embellishments to the scene, were they not so painfully +whiter-washed. + +A peculiar class of Hindus, the Jains, have also what have not been +inappropriately termed "god-shops," for they certainly have not the +slightest appearance of temples. These pagodas, if they may be so +styled, are nothing more than large houses, of three floors, with +balconies running in front, the heavy wooden frame-work that supports +them being painted a dark dingy red, and the walk adorned with +representations of deities, executed in a variety of colours, and of +the most nondescript character. The interiors appear to be decorated +in the same manner, as they are seen through the open windows and by +the light of many lamps suspended from the ceilings. The ringing +of bells, and the full attendance of priests and worshippers of an +evening, show the purpose to which these houses are dedicated, and +superstition is here exhibited in its most revolting aspect, for there +is no illusion to cheat the fancy--no beautiful sequestered pagoda, +with its shadowing trees and flower-strewed courts, to excite poetical +ideas--all being coarse, vulgar, and contemptible. + +Great numbers of artizans are to be seen at work in their respective +shops in this bazaar, copper-smiths particularly, who seem an +industrious race, toiling by lamp-light long after the day has +completely closed. There are also _caravanserais_ and _cafés_, where +the country and religion of the owner may be known by the guests +congregated about his gate. Groups of Persians are seen seated on the +outside smoking; the beautiful cats, which they have brought down +for sale, sporting at their feet. A few yards farther on, the Arab +horse-dealers, in front of their stables, are equally conspicuous, and +it is easy to perceive, by the eager glances with which some of these +men survey the English carriages bearing fair freights of ladies +along, that they have never visited an European settlement before. + +My former visit to India enabling me to observe the differences +between two of our presidencies, I was particularly struck, on my +arrival at Bombay, with the general use of chairs among the natives; +none but the very meanest description of houses seem to be entirely +destitute of an article of furniture scarcely known in the native +habitations of Bengal; and these seats seem to be preferred to +the more primitive method of squatting on the ground, which +still prevails, the number of chairs in each mansion being rather +circumscribed, excepting in the best houses, where they abound. Sofas +and divans, though seen, are not so common as in Egypt, and perhaps +the divan, properly speaking, is not very usual. + +The cheapness of oil, and in all probability the example shown by the +Parsees, render lamps very abundant. The common kind of hall-lamp of +England, of different sizes and different colours, is the prevailing +article; these are supplied with a tumbler half-filled with water, +having a layer of oil upon the top, and two cotton-wicks. As I lose +no opportunity whatever of looking into the interiors of the native +houses, I have been often surprised to see one of these lamps +suspended in a very mean apartment of a cottage, boasting few other +articles of furniture, which, nevertheless, in consequence of its +cleanliness, and the excellence of the light afforded, possessed +an air of comfort. In fact, many of the houses, whose exteriors are +anything but promising, are very well fitted up in the inside; many +of the apartments are panelled with wood, handsomely carved, and have +ceilings and floors of the same, either painted of a dark colour, or +highly polished. In the evening, the windows being all open, and the +lamps lighted, a foil view may be obtained of these apartments. + +Many of the houses appear to be kept entirely for show, since in +all my peregrinations I have never seen any human being in the upper +chambers, although illuminated every night. In others, there can be +no doubt concerning the fact of their having inhabitants, since the +owners do not scruple to go to bed with the windows open and the lamps +burning, not disturbed in their repose by the certainty of being seen +by every passer-by, or by the noise and bustle of the street. + +The bazaar ends at the commencement of the Esplanade, in a large +building, wooden-fronted, of a circular form, and not unhandsome, +which is decorated with a flag upon the roof, and is called "The +Sailors' Home." Its verandahs and open windows often display our +jovial tars enjoying themselves in an asylum which, though evil has +been spoken against it, is said to be well-conducted, and to prevent a +very thoughtless class of persons from falling into worse hands. + +The native town extends considerably on either side of the principal +avenue, one road leading through the coco-nut gardens, presenting a +great variety of very interesting features; that to the left is more +densely crowded, there being a large and well-frequented cloth bazaar, +besides a vast number of shops and native houses, apparently of +considerable importance. Here the indications shown of wealth and +industry are exceedingly gratifying to an eye delighting in the sight +of a happy and flourishing population. There are considerable spaces +of ground between these leading thoroughfares, which, by occasional +peeps down intersecting lanes, seem to be covered with a huddled +confusion of buildings, and, until the improvements which have +recently taken place, the whole of the town seems to have been nearly +in the same state. + +The processes of widening, draining, pulling down, and rebuilding, +appear to have been carried on very extensively; and though much, +perhaps, remains to be done in the back settlements, where buffaloes +may be seen wading through the stagnant pools, the eye is seldom +offended, or the other senses disagreeably assailed, in passing +through this populous district. The season is, however, so favourable, +the heat being tempered by cool airs, which render the sunshine +endurable, that Bombay, under its present aspect, may be very +different from the Bombay of the rains or of the very hot weather. The +continual palm-trees, which, shooting up in all directions, add grace +and beauty to every scene, must form terrible receptacles for malaria; +the fog and mist are said to cling to their branches and hang round +them like a cloud, when dispersed by sun or wind elsewhere; the very +idea suggesting fever and ague. + +Though, as I have before remarked, the contrast between the muslined +millions of Bengal and the less tastefully clad populace of Bombay is +unfavourable, still the crowds that fill the streets here are animated +and picturesque. There is a great display of the liveliest colours, +the turbans being frequently of the brightest of yellows, crimsons, or +greens. + +The number of vehicles employed is quite extraordinary, those of the +merely respectable classes being chiefly bullock-carts; these are of +various descriptions, the greater number being of an oblong square, +and furnished with seats across (after the fashion of our taxed +carts), in which twelve persons, including women and children, are +frequently accommodated. It is most amusing to see the quantity of +heads squeezed close together in a vehicle of this kind, and the +various contrivances resorted to in order to accommodate a more than +sufficient number of personages in other conveyances, not so well +calculated to hold them. Four in a buggy is a common complement, and +six or nine persons will cram themselves into so small a space, that +you wonder how the vehicle can possibly contain the bodies of all the +heads seen looking out of it. The carts are chiefly open, but there +are a few covered _rhuts_, the conveyances probably of rich Hindu or +Mohamedan ladies, who do not content themselves, like the Parsees, +with merely covering their heads with the veil. + +Young Parsee women of the better class are frequently to be seen in +carriages with their male relations, nor do they object to appear +publicly in the streets following wedding processions. They are the +only well-dressed or nice-looking women who drive or walk about the +streets or roads. The lower classes of females in Bombay are the most +unprepossessing people I ever saw. In Bengal, the _saree_, though +rather too scanty, is a graceful costume, and at a little distance +appears to be a modest covering. Here it is worn very differently, and +without the slightest attempt at delicacy or grace, the drapery being +in itself insufficient, and rendered more offensive by the method of +its arrangement. + +The Parsee women are, generally speaking, of fair complexions, with +small features, and a very sweet expression of countenance; many +of them are exceedingly pretty, and they all dress gracefully and +becomingly. Very respectable females of this class are to be seen +walking about, showing by their conduct that propriety of behaviour +does not consist in seclusion, or the concealment of the face. + +There is an innate delicacy and refinement about Parsee women which +commands respect, and their value is known and acknowledged by +their male relatives, who treat them with a degree of deference and +consideration which is highly creditable to both parties. Though the +men are found in service in every European family, they do not allow +their wives and daughters to become domestics to foreigners, and they +are only permitted to become servants to their own people. The higher +classes of natives have adopted European equipages, and are the owners +of the handsomest carriages and horses in Bombay. Chariots, barouches, +britschkas, and buggies, appear in great numbers, filled with +Mohamedan, Hindu, or Parsee gentlemen. The less fashionable use the +palanquin carriage, common in Bengal, but which at this place is +called a _shigram_; these are often crammed full of servants and +children. + +Upon emerging from the bazaar, we enter upon the wide plain called the +Esplanade. To the left, across an extensive parade-ground, appears the +Fort, which is seen to the best advantage from this point; the walls +are low, and afford an ample view of a range of three-storied houses, +having verandahs all the way up, called Rampart Row, and from which +one or two very splendid mansions stand out conspicuously. To the +right, there is a whole encampment of tents, these canvas dwellings +being the sole refuge for the destitute. They may be hired in any +number and of every degree of elegance, none, however, quite reaching +to the refinements of Bengal, or being supplied with glass doors and +windows. Beyond the tents, and quite close to the beach, is the +space allotted for the temporary bungalows erected during the cold +season--singular places, which will be more fully described under the +head of Anglo-Indian residences. In front, and close to the warf or +bunder, are immense irregular piles of cotton in bales, which at a +distance appear like fortifications, and upon a nearer approach assume +somewhat of a picturesque air. + +The Fort is surrounded on the land-side with a moat, and is entered +through some very shabby gateways. The interior of this extensive work +presents a busy, bustling scene; its numerous houses being arranged +with some degree of regularity in streets and open places. Those +who content themselves, however, with driving through the European +portion, will have very little idea of the true character of the +place. Rampart Row--the avenues leading into a large open space, in +which stand the cathedral, the town-hall, the mint, a cavalry +barrack, &c.--and the immediate environs, are composed of lofty, +well-constructed houses, some standing a little apart in courtyards, +and others with a narrow platform in front, ascended by steps, and +roofed by the story above. This, as I have previously stated, is the +general method of building in Bombay. These streets have somewhat of +an European, though not an English, air, but are for the most part +tenanted by natives, who may be seen at the windows of every floor, +and who apparently are better lodged, at least according to our idea, +than the same class in Calcutta. In this part of the Fort there +are several shops, or rather warehouses, for the sale of European +goods--dingy places, having a melancholy assortment of faded articles +in dim glass cases, freshness and variety in the merchandize depending +upon shipping arrivals. + +Earthenware, glass, and cutlery, are abundant; but, altogether, there +is nothing at present to compare with the first-rate establishments of +Calcutta--such as Tulloh's, for instance--the whole style being dirty +and slovenly. A very civil native, named Muncherjee, who calls +himself a milliner, has, I am informed, very frequently well-chosen +investments to dispose of, but upon my visits I have seen nothing +wearable in the shape of bonnets and caps. An English milliner resides +in his neighbourhood, who possesses both skill and taste, and makes +up her silks and gauzes after the best French models; but necessarily, +perhaps, the purchases made at her rooms are rather expensive. + +There is quite enough of bustle and animation in this quarter of the +Fort to engage the attention, but it seems silent and deserted when +compared with the crowd of the more exclusively native portions. +Here the streets literally swarm with life--men, women, children, and +bullocks, filling them almost to suffocation. Ranges of open shops +appear on each side, raised a foot or two from the ground, the +occupant being seated upon a ledge in front, in the midst of +his wares. Here, too, immense quantities of English glass and +crockery-ware are exhibited, which may be purchased at a much cheaper +rate than in shops styled, _par distinction_, European. + +One or two opportunities offering for a visit to what is called the +China Bazaar, I gladly availed myself of them, and was much amused, +as the carriage made its slow way through the multitudes that thronged +the streets, to observe the employments of the people, buying, +selling, manufacturing their goods, or, for want of something else to +do, dragging little children in carts, which, by some contrivance, ran +back across the floor of the narrow apartment, and were then impelled +forward again by means of a string. This I found to be a favourite +occupation, and I never in any place saw more fondness manifested +towards children by their parents than in Bombay, or a greater desire +to associate them in all their amusements. At length, the carriage +stopped at a gateway, and upon alighting, I found myself in the midst +of a crowd of little children--an infant school, in fact, composed +indiscriminately of boys and girls. They were, generally speaking, +very pretty, and all well-dressed, many being adorned with very +handsome jewels. + +The pedagogue--a Parsee, and rather a young man--with the barbarity +common to his class, was in the act of inflicting corporal punishment +upon a poor little creature, whom he beat upon the feet (ornamented, +by the way, with rich anclets) with a rod of split bamboo. I commanded +him to forbear, but speaking half in English and half in Hindustanee, +made myself better understood by look and gesture than by words. The +unhappy infant seemed to know that I interfered in its behalf, for +it gazed upon me with a piteous but grateful expression; it could not +have been more than three years old, and was really very pretty +and interesting in its tears. It was evidently the child of wealthy +parents, being dressed in a silk shirt embroidered and trimmed with +silver, a cap of the same upon its head, and numerous jewels besides. +The whole of the Lilliputian assembly uttered their lesson as I +passed, all raising their voices at the same time, and rendering it, I +imagine, rather difficult to determine whether each pupil repeated his +or her part correctly. + +I would fain have lingered for a few minutes, but my attendants +officiously showing the way, I walked across a paved yard and up two +flights of steps to the shop of which I came in search, which was kept +by a good-looking Parsee. The trade of this person was designated +as that of a _bottlee wallah_, which being literally rendered means +'bottle-fellow,' but, according to a more free translation, a dealer +in glass, lamps, candlesticks, preserved meats in tin-cases, &c. &c. +I found a vast stock of the articles most in request in Indian +housekeeping, such as wall-shades, and all descriptions of earthen and +hard-ware, all of which he sold at very moderate prices, but having +executed the part of my commission which related to candlesticks, I +was unable to find the more _recherché_ articles of which I came in +quest. + +I had been told that a great variety of ornamental china, the real +product of the Celestial Empire, was to be seen in the native shops +in Bombay. Though showy in appearance, this sort of china is of little +value, except to mark how much the manufacture has degenerated since +Europeans have learned to make their own teacups. I wished to obtain +a few specimens, but could not succeed. My friend, the bottlee wallah, +though very civil, could not afford me the information I required, +nor have I yet been able to obtain it. I have seen some handsome jars, +plates such as are used in England for the deposit of visitors' cards, +&c., which were purchased for a few annas, and have been told that +I might procure any quantity I pleased, but the where is still a +mystery. + +All the information obtainable in Bombay must be fished out in an +extraordinary manner, both natives and Europeans seeming to make it a +rule never to commit themselves by a direct reply to any question; +in every single instance, up to the present time, I have always, upon +making an inquiry, been referred to somebody else. Neither do I +find the same zeal manifested in the servants, which amounts to +officiousness on the other side of India. I have sent them to purchase +the china, but can get nothing but rubbish, knowing all the while that +there are plenty of a better description to be had. + +Upon my return, the bottlee wallah accompanied me to the carriage in +waiting, and as I paused to notice some of the children in the school, +introduced me to a group of his own sons and daughters, well decked +out in jewels, and otherwise richly dressed. The instruction given at +these schools I understood to be merely oral, the repetition of a few +verses, intended rather to pass away the time and keep the children +out of mischief, than as a foundation of more useful studies. I +hope that the system will be improved, for the pupils seemed to be +extremely intelligent, and capable of better things. + +Returning home, I passed several shops, in which the artizans of a +very beautiful manufacture, peculiar to Bombay, were at work. Desks, +dressing-cases, work-boxes, card-cases, ink-stands, and a variety of +other ornamental fancy articles, are made of sandal-wood, covered and +inlaid with ivory, ebony, and a material resembling silver. They copy +the best patterns, and produce exceedingly elegant appendages for +the drawing or dressing-room tables. A desk, handsomely fitted up and +lined with velvet, is sold for seven or eight pounds; large ink-stands +and blotting books for twenty rupees, and card-cases for six or eight. + +It is impossible, while perambulating the Fort of Bombay, to avoid +a feeling of apprehension concerning a catastrophe, which sooner or +later seems certain to happen, and which nothing short of a miracle +appears to prevent from taking place every night; I mean the +destruction of the whole by fire. All the houses are constructed of +the most combustible materials, and the greater number belonging to +the native quarter are thatched. Though contrary to law, many of the +warehouses contain gunpowder, while the immense quantity of oil +and spirits stored up in them would render a conflagration, once +commenced, most fearful. Few or no precautions seem to be taken by the +natives against fire. There are lights burning in every room of every +house, fires are continually made outside, whence a single spark +might set the whole in flames; and added to these dangers, are the +prejudices of the great number of the inhabitants, whose religious +feelings would prevent them from making the slightest endeavour to +stay the progress of the element which they worship. Nor would the +destruction of property be the sole danger. It is terrible to think +of the fearful risk of life in a place in which escape would be so +difficult. The gates of the Fort are few in number, and of narrow +dimensions; a new one is now constructing, probably with some view +to an emergence of the kind. The natives, upon the occasion of its +proposal, evinced their readiness to assist in the execution of a plan +so advantageous to the place of their abode, and immediately advanced +half the sum which this necessary improvement would cost--namely, +thirty thousand rupees--which were subscribed and paid into the +treasury in the course of a week. + +In 1803 or 1804, a very destructive conflagration actually took place +in the Fort of Bombay, and upon that occasion, in order to save the +castle, which did then, and does now, contain an immense quantity of +gunpowder, the authorities were obliged to bring out cannon to batter +down the surrounding houses, for the purpose of arresting the progress +of the flames. When the place was rebuilt, many salutary regulations +were made to prevent the recurrence of so great a calamity, and could +all the plans of Government have been accomplished, the danger which +now threatens Bombay would have been very considerably lessened; but +it was found impossible to carry out all the objects contemplated, +in consequence of the great value of the property which they would +affect. + +The land within the walls of the Fort has become in a great measure +private property, and the convenience of its contiguity to the harbour +is so great, and the natives entertain so strong an idea of security +in a residence in a fortified place, however disqualified to resist +a hostile force, that nothing would prevail upon them to relinquish +their houses. The higher classes are well aware of the hazards they +incur, but, like the dwellers in the neighbourhood of a volcano, are +unwilling to quit a place endeared to them by long residence, though +they know not the hour in which they may be buried beneath its smoking +ruins. There are only a few Europeans who continue to inhabit the +Fort, but it must contain a very considerable portion of the property +of those merchants who have their offices and warehouses within its +walls. The British authorities have taken all the precautions in +their power, the fire-engines have been placed in a state of greater +efficiency than heretofore, while, should an extensive fire take +place, everything that European strength and skill could accomplish +would be attempted. + +Amongst the various accidents to which houses in Bombay are subjected, +the one to be most apprehended, that of fire, is often brought about +by rats. They will carry off a lighted candle at every convenient +opportunity, setting fire to dwellings by this means. They have been +also known to upset tumblers containing oil, which is thus spread +abroad and likely to be ignited by the falling wick. It is, perhaps, +impossible totally to exterminate this race of vermin, which in the +Fort set cats completely at defiance, but something might be done to +keep the population down. I have been told that there are places in +the more crowded portion rendered perfectly impassable at night in +consequence of the effluvia arising from the immense quantities of +musk rats, which, together with the common sort, and bandicoots of an +incredible size, abound, the narrow close lanes being apparently +built for the purpose of affording accommodation to vermin of every +description. Nevertheless, some of the native houses of the Fort would +form very agreeable residences to persons accustomed to the utmost +refinement. Being exceedingly lofty, the upper apartments have the +advantage of every breeze that blows, while the views both of sea and +land are splendid. + +The immense size of these houses, and the elegance of their +decorations, evince the spirit and wealth of their owners; they become +absolutely beacons at night, in consequence of the frequency and the +extent of their illuminations. Numerous are the occasions, either of +holidays or other rejoicings, in which the natives of Bombay light +up their houses; rows of lamps hung along the wide fronts of the +verandahs, upon every floor, produce a good effect, which is often +heightened by the flood of light poured out of apartments decorated +with chandeliers and lamps of every description. + +In passing through the bazaar at night, every third or fourth house +is lit up upon some festive occasion; one favourite and very pretty +method consists of a number of small lamps, arranged to resemble +bunches of grapes, and hung up in the trees of a court-yard. Sometimes +in the evening, a sort of market is held in the native town beyond +the Esplanade, and every stall is profusely lighted; the hawkers, +who carry about their goods in a more humble way upon their heads in +baskets, have them stuck with candles, and the wild shadowy effects +produced, amid the quaint buildings thus partially lighted, afford a +continual phantasmagoria. + +They must be destitute of imagination, indeed, who cannot find +pleasure in the contemplation of the night-scenes of Bombay, either +from its native crowds, or the delicious solitudes of its sylvan +shades. The ear is the only organ absolutely unblest in this sunny +island, the noises being incessant, and most discordant; the shrieking +of jackals by night is music compared to that from native instruments, +which, in the most remote places, are continually striking up: +the drums, trumpets, bells, and squeaking pipes, of a neighbouring +village, are now inflicting their torments upon my distracted brain +in the most barbarous manner possible. The exertions of the performers +never appear to relax, and by night or day, it is all the same; they +make themselves heard at any distance, parading along the roads for +the sole purpose, it should seem, of annoying the more peaceable +inhabitants. Certainly, the sister arts of music and painting have +yet to make their way in India, the taste for both being at present +perfectly barbarous. + +The European bands, when playing on the Esplanade, attract a very +considerable number of natives; but whether congregated for the +purpose of listening to the music, or merely for the sake of +passing the time, seems very doubtful. A few, certainly, manifest +a predilection for "concord of sweet sounds," and no difficulty is +experienced by band-masters in recruiting their forces from natives, +the boys learning readily, and acquitting themselves very well +upon instruments foreign to the country. There is, however, no +manifestation at present of the spread of a refined taste, and many +years will probably elapse before any thing like good music will be +common in this part of Asia. + +The great variety of religions extant in Bombay, each being +distinguished by numerous festivals, all celebrated in the same +manner--that is, by noise and illuminations--sufficiently accounts +for the perpetual recurrence of lamp-lighting and drumming in all +directions. Every week brings round the anniversary of some day of +rejoicing of the Mohamedans, Hindus, Parsees, Jews, Roman Catholics, +or Armenians, and Bombay may therefore be said to present one +universal holiday. Passing the other evening one of the handsomest +pagodas in the island, an oblong square building of yellow stone, +with a mitre-shaped tower at one end, I was surprised by the number +of European carriages in waiting. The exterior had all the air of +a Christian church, the situation beautiful, a platform of rock +overlooking the sea; and I could not help indulging the hope, that the +substitution of chariots and buggies for palanquins and _rhuts_ would +lead to the introduction of a purer and better creed. + + + + +CHAPTER X. + + * * * * * + +BOMBAY--(_Continued_). + + * * * * * + + Bombay the rising Presidency--Probability of its becoming the Seat of + Government--The Anglo-Indian Society of Bombay--Style of Living--The + Gardens inferior to those of Bengal--Interiors of the Houses more + embellished--Absence of Glass-windows an evil--The Bungalows--The + Encamping-ground--Facility and despatch of a change of + residence--Visit to a tent entertainment--Inconveniences attending a + residence in tents--Want of Hotels and Boarding-houses--Deficiency of + public Amusements in Bombay--Lectures and _Conversaziones_ suggested, + as means of bringing the native community into more frequent + intercourse with Europeans--English spoken by the superior classes + of natives--Natives form a very large portion of the wealth and + intelligence of Bombay--Nothing approaching the idea of a City to be + seen--The climate more salubrious than that of Bengal--Wind blows hot + and cold at the same time--Convenience a stranger finds in so many + domestic servants speaking English--Their peculiar mode of speaking + it--Dress of servants--Their wages--The Cooks--Improved by Lord + Clare--Appointments of the tables--The Ramoosee Watchmen--Their + vociferations during the night--Fidelity of the natives--Controversy + concerning their disregard of truth. + + +Comparisons are so frequently both unfair and invidious, that I had +determined, upon my arrival at Bombay, to abstain from making them, +and to judge of it according to its own merits, without reference to +those of the rival presidency. It was impossible, however, to adhere +to this resolution, and being called upon continually to give an +opinion concerning its claims to superiority over Calcutta, I was +reluctantly compelled to consider it in a less favourable point of +view than I should have done had the City of Palaces been left out of +the question. + +That Bombay is the rising presidency there can be no doubt, and there +seems to be every probability of its becoming the seat of the Supreme +Government; nothing short of a rail-road between the two presidencies +can avert this catastrophe; the number of days which elapse before +important news reaching Bombay can be known and acted upon by the +authorities of Calcutta rendering the measure almost imperative. +Bengal, too proudly triumphing in her greatness, has now to bear +the mortifications to which she delighted to subject Bombay, a +place contemptuously designated as "a fishing village," while its +inhabitants, in consequence of their isolated situation, were called +"the Benighted." + +Steam-communication brought the news to Bombay of the accession of +Queen Victoria to the throne of England, and this event was celebrated +at the same time that the Bengallees were toasting the health of +William the Fourth at a dinner given in honour of his birth-day. "Who +are the Benighted now?" was the universal cry; and the story is told +with great glee to all new arrivals. + +Concerning the Anglo-Indian society of Bombay, I do not pretend +to know any thing, or to give opinions which must necessarily be +premature and presumptuous. A round of dinner parties affords little +opportunity of making acquaintance; they are much the same everywhere, +and when a large company is assembled, their agreeability must +entirely depend upon the persons who occupy the neighbouring chairs. + +Bombay is accused, with what degree of justice I cannot determine, of +being a place much addicted to scandal and gossip. If this charge be +well founded, it is one which it must share in common with all limited +circles. The love of detraction is unhappily a thoroughly English +vice, flourishing under all circumstances, and quite as prevalent, +though not, perhaps, equally hurtful, in great cities as in the +smallest village. The same people who in London delight in the perusal +of newspapers of the most libellous description, and who read with +avidity every publication which attacks private character, will, when +removed into a congenial sphere, pick their neighbours to pieces; an +amusement which cannot be enjoyed in the metropolis, where happily we +do not know the names of the parties who occupy the adjoining houses. + +We are proud of our virtues, not unjustly giving ourselves credit for +many that elevate and refine the human character; but even the most +solid and the most dazzling can scarcely compensate for that one +universal sin, that want of charity, which leads English people +upon all occasions to undervalue and disparage their most intimate +acquaintance. How few will scruple to point out to others the follies +and foibles of their dearest friends, weaknesses which they have +discovered during long and familiar intercourse; and how few will +hesitate to impute the very worst motives for actions which may spring +from a laudable source, or be merely the result of thoughtlessness! +In our most Christian country, the spirit of the Christian religion is +still to be sought, and until we see stronger proofs of its influence +than can at present be shown throughout the United Kingdom, we must +not single out a remote colony as a specimen of the indulgence of a +vice common to us all. + +The great evil, which Bombay must share with other communities +similarly constituted, is the want of family ties, and the consequent +loss of all the gentle affections which spring amid a wide domestic +circle. Neither the very old nor the very young are to be found in an +Indian colony; there are few connecting links to bind the sojourners +of a foreign land together; each has a separate interest, and the +result is seen in a general want of sympathy; no one seems to enter +into the views, feelings, hopes, or objects of another. I employ +the word _seems_, since, as a stranger, I can only give my first +impressions upon the subject. + +The style of living is more easily described, and its relative +advantages determined. The Anglo-Indian residents of Bombay are, +for the most part, scattered all over the island, living in very +comfortable houses, of no great pretensions to exterior elegance, +yet having for the most part an air of home enjoyment, which suggests +pleasing ideas. One feature is very striking, the porticoes and +verandahs of many being completely covered with luxuriant flowering +creepers, which in Bengal are never suffered to be near the house, in +consequence of the harbour they are supposed to give to insects +and reptiles. The approach to these beautiful screens is, however, +frequently through a cabbage-garden, the expedience of planting out +the unsightly but useful vegetables destined for the kitchen not +having been as yet considered; neither can the gardens at this period +of the year, the cold season, compare with those of Bengal, the +expense of irrigation preventing the inhabitants from devoting so much +time and attention to their improvement, while as yet the natives +have not been encouraged to fill the bazaars with European vegetables. +Pease are spoken of as not being uncommon, but I have only seen them +once, even at the best tables. Neither have cauliflowers, French +beans, or asparagus, made their appearance--vegetables common at +Christmas all over the Bengal presidency. + +The interiors of the houses are, generally speaking, more embellished +than those of Calcutta; the greater part have handsome ceilings, and +the doorways and windows are decorated with mouldings, and otherwise +better finished. The walls also are coloured, and often very +tastefully picked out with white or some other harmonizing tint. The +reception-rooms, therefore, have not the barn-like air which detracts +from the magnitude of those of Bengal, and the furniture, if not +always equally splendid, is shown off to greater advantage; but here I +should say the superiority ends. + +Some of the small bungalows are very neatly fitted up with boarded +ceilings, a great improvement upon the cloth which conceals the +rafters in those of Bengal; others, however, are canopied with +cloth, and some there are which appear more like summer-houses +than habitations intended for Europeans throughout the year, being +destitute of glass windows, and open to all the winds of heaven. + +The frequent changes of the atmosphere which occur in Bombay, and +the danger of a touch of the land-wind, render the absence of glass +windows a very serious evil; they are, however, unknown in the +temporary bungalows erected upon the Esplanade, which seem to be +favourite residences of people who could lodge themselves more +substantially if they pleased. The barn-like thatched roofs of these +dwellings make them rather unsightly objects, though some are redeemed +by a thick drapery of creepers; but the interiors of many are of a +very pavilion-like description, and the singularity of all renders +them interesting to a stranger. + +These houses usually consist of two or more principal apartments, +united with each other by means of verandahs, and formed chiefly +of wooden frame-work panelled with canvas, with here and there a +partition of wattle and dab. They have generally large porticoes of +trellice-work in front, sufficiently spacious to allow a carriage to +drive under them, which is thus screened from the sun; these porticoes +being mantled with flowering creepers of many beautiful kinds. A sort +of garden is also formed by plants in tubs, and there is sometimes a +cultivated oval or circular space, which, in such a climate, a very +few weeks will render luxuriant. The fronts of these bungalows +face the sea, and have all the benefit of its breezes, while the +intervening space between the fort forms the parade-ground of the +garrison, and the most esteemed evening drive. + +Those who inhabit these bungalows, and who do not rise before the sun, +are subjected to all the inconveniences attending upon field practice, +the firing of musquetry and the war of cannon close to their ears, and +though favourite residences, they seem better suited to persons well +accustomed to all the vicissitudes of Anglo-Indian life than to a +stranger. For my own part, I confess a prejudice in favour of brick +and mortar, glass windows, and chimneys; and though perfectly content, +while travelling, to put up with any accommodation that may offer, +would never willingly settle down for a season in a mansion of canvas, +mat, and bamboo, where the rats have free ingress, and the atmosphere +is filled with innumerable winged insects. + +Before the general setting-in of the rains, these bungalows, I am +informed, assume a very damp and tatterdemalion appearance, and when +the skies open their flood-gates, they are obliged to be taken down +and warehoused until the following year. Some of these bungalows are +private property, others are erected by the natives and let to +their tenants at a monthly rent. In some, the sleeping and sitting +apartments are under different roofs; all have a considerable piece of +ground enclosed round them, the allotments to each party being made by +Government, and appertaining to certain appointments in the service. + +Beyond these bungalows is the encamping ground, in which certain +temporary sojourners in Bombay either pitch or hire a tent or tents, +the accommodation differing according to the expense incurred. The +superior tents--such, for instance, as that engaged by the late +admiral--are spacious and convenient; a handsome suite of apartments, +consisting of ante-room, drawing-room, and dining-room, partitioned +off by canvas curtains, which could be rolled up at pleasure, were +lighted by chandeliers suspended from the cross-poles and girandoles +against those that supported the roof; the walls were handsomely +lined, the floors covered with thick mats and carpets; nothing being +wanted to render this canvas dwelling equal in comfort and elegance to +the tents of Bengal, excepting glass doors. + +The weather, during the cold season in this part of India, is not +nearly so inclement as in Calcutta and the north-western provinces; +nevertheless, it is very desirable to shut out the keen and cutting +wind, which frequently blows during the night. The people here, +however, seem fond of living in tents, and it often happens that +gentlemen especially, who have had good houses of their own over their +heads, go to very considerable expense for the purpose of enjoying the +free air of a camp. + +I had an opportunity of seeing the facility and despatch with which +such a change of residence is managed in Bombay. Driving one evening +round the foot of a conical hill overlooking the sea, we met a party +of gentlemen who said that they were looking out for a good place to +pitch their tents, and invited us to dine with them on the following +evening at seven o'clock. As the hill was in our neighbourhood, we +ascertained at eleven o'clock the next morning that there was not a +symptom of habitation upon it; however, we were determined to keep our +engagement, and accordingly arrived at the appointed hour at the point +of the road at which a rude pathway opened. + +It was perfectly dark, but we found the place indicated by a cluster +of lamps hanging like a bunch of grapes from a tree; a palanquin was +also in waiting to carry the ladies up the hill in turn. I preferred +walking; and though my shoes and the hem of my gown were covered with +prickles and thorns, which interweaved themselves in an extraordinary +manner through a satin dress, I enjoyed the walk amazingly. A man +with a lanthorn led the way, a precaution always taken in Bombay, on +account of the alleged multitude of the snakes, and at every three or +four yards' distance, another cluster of lamps suspended from a tree +pointed out the way. + +In a few minutes we arrived at a platform of table-land on the summit +of the hill, prettily sprinkled with palm-trees, and came upon a scene +full of life, picture, and movement. The white outline of the smaller +tents had a sort of phantom look in the ambiguous light, but the open +doors of the principal one showed a strong illumination. A table, +which we might have supposed to be raised by the hand of an enchanter, +gleaming with silver, cut glass, and wax candles, was absolutely +framed in by the darkness around. Two or three horses picketed under +the trees with their grooms, cowering over fires made upon the ground, +looked very like unearthly chargers, just emerged with their grim +attendants from some subterranean kingdom; while the red glare from +the cooking tents, and the dusky figures moving about, could scarcely +be recognised as belonging to human and every-day life--the whole +scene having a supernatural air. + +The interior of the tents was extremely picturesque, fitted up with +odds and ends of foreign products, and looking very like the temporary +haunt of some pirate; tiger skins, rich soft thick rugs of Persian +manufacture, interspersed with Indian mats, covered the floors; the +tents were lined with flags, favouring the notion that the corsair's +bark lay anchored in some creek below; while daggers, and pistols, and +weapons of all kinds, helped out a fanciful imagination to a tale of +wild adventure. The butler of our host had enacted more wonders than +a man; under such circumstances, a repast of fish and curry might +have been considered a great achievement, but we had the three regular +courses, and those, too, of a most _recherché_ kind, with a dessert to +match, all sent up to the point of perfection. + +After coffee, I went out to look upon the sea, which lay like a mirror +below the perpendicular height on which I stood; and as my eyes +became accustomed to the darkness of a moonless night, I saw under +new aspects the sombre outlines of those soft hills, whose purple +loveliness I had admired so much during the day. + +I spent several pleasant evenings in these tents, which were engaged +by a young nobleman upon his travels for the purpose of escaping from +the annoyances of the Fort, and who, during his short residence under +canvas, had the advantage of the companionship of a friend, to +whose experienced servants he was indebted for the excellence of the +arrangements. + +When it is considered that these tents were pitched upon a lonely +spot, upwards of four miles from Bombay and from the bazaars, the +celerity and success with which every thing was managed will appear +quite wonderful. The tents were found to be so cold, that a gentleman +who afterwards joined the party slept in his palanquin; they were +subsequently removed, and now the palm-tree waves its broad leaves +over the lonely hill, and the prowling jackal seeks his meal +elsewhere. Tents such as those now described form the rarer and +brighter specimens, their usual character being very different. + +On the Esplanade we step at once from the ground upon a settrinjee, +which bears all the marks of having been well trodden by sandy feet; +an opening at the farther extremity shows the sea, glaring on the eye +with a hot dazzle; a table, a few chairs, with some books and papers, +perhaps, upon the ground, complete the arrangements that are visible; +while, if proceeding farther, we find ourselves in a room fitted up +as a bed-chamber, nearly as small and inconvenient as the cabin of a +ship, with a square aperture in the thin canvas wall for a window. + +These tents are dreadfully warm during the day, and exceedingly cold +at night; they are, moreover, notwithstanding their proximity to +the sea, and the benefit of its breezes, filled with mosquitoes, or +sand-flies, which are equally troublesome. Persons who contemplate a +long residence in them, keep out of the cold and heat by erecting a +chopper, or roof, formed of thatch, over them; but, in my opinion, +they are but uncomfortable residences. Many strangers, however, +arriving at Bombay, have no alternative, there being no other place +where they can find equally good accommodation. + +An hotel, it appears, has been established in the Fort, but not of a +description to suit private families or ladies; the constant arrival +of steamers full of passengers fills the houses of the residents +with a succession of guests, who would gladly put up at an hotel or +boarding-house, if such could be found, while there are besides +many ladies now in Bombay, whose husbands are in the army, living +uncomfortably either alone or going about from friend to friend's +houses, who would rejoice to be quietly and comfortably established in +a respectable boarding-house. Nothing of the kind, however, appears to +be at present in contemplation, and Bombay can never, with any +degree of justice, presume to call itself England, until it can offer +suitable accommodation to the vast numbers of strangers who land upon +its shores. + +European foreigners, who visit Bombay in a commercial capacity, find +it exceedingly _triste_; independently of private society, there is +absolutely no amusement--no play, no concert, no public assembly +of any kind; nor would it be advisable to attempt to establish an +entertainment of this nature, since there would be no chance of its +support. There is a fine building, the Town Hall, well adapted for the +purpose, but its most spacious saloon is suffered to remain empty and +unfurnished; the expense which must be incurred in the purchase +of chandeliers proving sufficient to deter the community from an +undertaking which would serve to add gaiety to a sombre scene. + +Those who have visited the Town Hall of Calcutta, and who retain a +recollection of the brilliance of its re-unions, with all their gay +variety of concert, opera, and acted charade, cannot help seeing +that Bombay lags very far behind; it is, therefore, unwise to provoke +comparisons, and the society here should rather pride itself upon what +it will do, than upon what it has done. It is, perhaps, little to be +lamented that merely frivolous amusements should be wholly confined to +the private circles of social life, but there are others which might +be cultivated with infinite advantage to the community at large, and +for which the great room at the Town Hall seems to be most admirably +adapted. + +Whether the native ear is sufficiently refined to relish the superior +performances of music, seems doubtful; but when we see so large +a portion of the society of Bombay composed of Parsee, Hindu, and +Mohamedan gentlemen, we cannot help wishing that some entertainment +should be provided for them which would attract and interest, while +it expanded the mind. A series of lectures upon popular subjects, +illustrated by entertaining experiments, might, I should think, be +introduced with good effect. The wonders of the microscope, laid open +to the eyes of intelligent persons who perfectly understand and +speak English, could scarcely fail to delight and instruct, while +the secrets of phantasmagoria, the astonishing effects produced by +electricity, the movements of the heavenly bodies exhibited in an +orrery, and, indeed, all the arcana of science, agreeably laid open, +would furnish inexhaustible funds of amusement, and lead to inquiries +of the most useful nature. Lectures, also, upon horticulture, +floriculture, &c., might be followed by much practical good; and as +there are many scientific men at the presidency who could assist one +or more lecturers engaged for the purpose, the expense of such an +institution would be materially lessened, while, if it were once +established, the probabilities are in favour of its being supported +by contributions of the necessary models, implements, &c., from the +capitals of Europe. + +It is certainly very pleasing to see the numbers of native gentlemen +of all religious persuasions, who enter into the private society +of Bombay, but I could wish that we should offer them some better +entertainment than that of looking on at the eternal quadrille, waltz, +or galoppe. They are too much accustomed to our method of amusing +ourselves to view it in the light in which it is looked upon in many +other parts of India; still, they will never, in all probability, +reconcile it to their ideas of propriety, and it is a pity that we do +not show ourselves capable of something better. Conversation at these +parties is necessarily restricted to a few commonplaces; nothing is +gained but the mere interchange of civility, and the native spectators +gladly depart, perhaps to recreate themselves with more debasing +amusements, without having gained a single new idea. + +If meetings once a fortnight, or once a month, could be held at the +Town Hall, for the purpose of diffusing useful knowledge in a popular +manner, they would not only afford amusement at the time, but subjects +also of conversation for the future. Such meetings would give no +offence to that part of the community who are averse, upon religious +principles, to cards and dancing, or dramatic amusements; and if not +rendered too abstruse, and consequently tiresome and incomprehensible +to the general auditor, must necessarily become a favourite method of +passing time now too frequently lost or mis-spent. + +The literary and scientific _conversaziones_ given by Lord Auckland, +in Calcutta, afford a precedent for an institution of the kind; the +successful features might be copied, and if there should have been any +failures, the experience thus gained would prevent similar hazards. +There seems to be no good reason why ladies should be excluded, since +the more general and extensive a plan of the kind could be made, +the greater chance there would be of a beneficial exercise of its +influence over society. + +There is a very good library attached to the Town Hall, and the germ +of a museum, which would furnish materials for much intellectual +entertainment; and there can be little doubt that, if the proposition +were judiciously made, and properly supported, the wealthy portion +of the native community would subscribe very liberally towards an +establishment so eminently calculated to interest and amuse the youth +of their families. The greater number of the sons of respectable +natives are now receiving their education at the Elphinstone College, +and these young people would understand and appreciate the advantages +of a literary and scientific institution, for the discussion and +illustration of subjects intimately connected with the end and aim +of their studies. In the course of a few years, or even less, many +of these young men would be qualified to take a leading part in the +establishment, and perhaps there would be no greater incentive to the +continuation of studies now frequently abandoned too early, for the +sake of some money-getting pursuit, than the hope that the scientific +acquirements attained at college might be turned to useful account. + +A small salary would allure many natives, who, in consequence of the +necessity which they are under of gaining their own bread, are +obliged to engage in some, perhaps not very lucrative, trade, and +who, engrossed in the gathering together o petty gains, lose all the +advantages they might otherwise have derived from a liberal education. +The difficulties which in other parts of our Asiatic territories +stand in the way of the participation of natives in the studies and +amusements of Anglo-Indian residents, in consequence of the difference +of language, are not felt in Bombay. + +All the superior classes of natives speak excellent English, the +larger portion expressing themselves with great fluency, and even +elegance. English is spoken in every shop frequented by Europeans, and +there are generally one or two servants in every family who can make +themselves understood in it. The natives form, in fact, a very +large portion of the wealth and intelligence of Bombay, and become, +consequently, an important part of its society. They are the owners +of nearly all the best houses in the island, which are not commonly +either built or purchased, as in Calcutta, by their European tenants. + +Many rich native merchants, who reside usually in the Fort, possess +splendid country mansions, to which they retire occasionally, or which +are used merely for the purpose of giving parties to their friends. +These mansions are to be recognised by the abundance of ornament, by +gateways surmounted by nondescript monsters, after the fashion of +the lions or bears of carved stone, which are sometimes seen at the +entrance of a nobleman's grounds in England. At others, they are gaily +painted in a variety of colours, while a profusion of many-coloured +lamps, hanging in the verandah and porticoes on the occasion of every +fête, shed great brilliance on the evening scene. These residences are +scattered all over Bombay, the interiors being all richly furnished, +and many fitted up with infinite taste and elegance. + +Although, as I have before remarked, these scattered houses impart an +air of rural enjoyment to the island, yet their being spread over +its whole surface prevents Bombay from appearing to be so important a +place as it is in reality. There is nothing approaching to the idea +of a city to be seen, nothing solid or substantial to indicate +the presence of wealth or of extensive commerce. Calcutta, on the +contrary, offers to the stranger's eye an aspect so striking and +imposing, brings so strongly to the mind the notion that its merchants +are princes, and that it ranks crowned heads amongst its vassals and +its tributaries, that we see at once that it must be the seat of a +powerful and permanently established government. Nor does it seem +possible, even in the event of Bombay taking the ascendance as the +capital of British India, that the proud City of Palaces shall upon +that account dwindle and sink into decay. Stranger things, and even +more melancholy destinies, have befallen the mighty Babylons of the +earth; but with all its faults of situation and of climate, I should +at least, for one, regret the fate that would render the glories of +a city so distinct in its character, and so proudly vying with the +capitals of Europe, a tale of the past. A new direction in the course +of the Ganges may reduce it to a swamp, and its palaces and pleasant +places may be left to desolate creatures, but it will never be +rivalled by any modern creation. The days of Anglo-Indian magnificence +are gone by, and though we may hope for all that is conveyed by the +words _comfort_ and _prosperity_, splendour will no longer form a +feature in the scene. + +The climate of Bombay is said to be superior in point of salubrity to +that of Bengal; what is termed the cold season, however, can +scarcely merit the name, there being nothing like the bracing weather +experienced at the same period of the year in the neighbouring +presidency. One peculiarity of Bombay consists in the wind blowing hot +and cold at the same time, so that persons who are liable to rheumatic +pains are obliged to wrap themselves up much more warmly than is +agreeable. While enduring a very uncomfortable degree of heat, a puff +of wind from the land or the sea will produce a sudden revulsion, and +in these alternations the whole day will pass away, while at night +they become still more dangerous. It is said that the hot season +is not so hot as in Bengal, and the absence of punkahs in the +drawing-rooms and bed-chambers favours the statement; but if the +atmosphere be much more sultry in the hot season than it is in what is +by courtesy called cold, it must be rather difficult to bear. + +To a stranger in Bombay, it is a great convenience to find so many +persons who speak English, the objection to the engagement of domestic +servants who have acquired the language of their Christian masters not +existing to the same extent here as in Bengal, where, in most cases, +it is a proof of utter worthlessness. Numbers of very respectable +servants, who are found in old established families at this +presidency, speak English, and the greater portion take a pride in +knowing a little of their masters' language. These smatterers are +fond of showing off their acquirements upon all occasions, replying +in English, as far as they are able, to every question asked in +Hindostanee, and delivering their messages in all the words that they +can muster. With few exceptions, the pronunciation of the language +they have acquired is correct; these exceptions consist in the prefix +of _e_ to all words beginning with an _s_, and the addition of the +same letter to every termination to which it can be tacked. Thus they +will ask you to take some _fowlee-stew;_ and if you object to any +thing, say they will bring you _anotheree_. Though very respectful +when addressing their superiors in their native language, the same +degree of propriety is not maintained under the disadvantage of an +incompetent acquaintance with English. Instead of the _khana tear hi_, +'dinner is ready,' they will very unintentionally substitute an abrupt +summons. I was much amused one day, when, being rather late at my +toilette, a servant made his appearance at the door of my apartment, +just as I was quitting it, and said, "You come to dinner." He had been +sent to tell me that it was served, and had not the least idea that he +had not delivered his message with the greatest propriety. + +Though, generally speaking, well-behaved and attentive, the domestics +of a Bombay establishment are very inferior in style and appearance +to those of Bengal, the admixture of Portuguese and Parsees, with +Mohammedans and Hindus, forming a motley crew, for all dress in their +national costume, it being impossible to prevail upon people having +so many and such different religious prejudices to assume the same +livery. The Parsees who engage as domestic servants seldom dress well; +the ugly chintz cap will always be a disfigurement, and it is not +often redeemed by the ample robe and handsome shawl which distinguish +the better classes. + +The Mohammedans do not wear the beautifully plaited turbans and +well-fitting vests so common in Bengal, while the sailors' jackets +and trowsers, almost universally worn by the Portuguese, a few only +assuming the swallow-tailed coat, are any thing rather than +handsome or becoming. The inferiority of dress exhibited is the more +inexcusable, since the wages of servants in Bombay are much higher +than those of the same class in Bengal, while the difference in +point of number does not make up for the difference in the rate. The +youngest table-servant demands twelve rupees a month, no one will +engage as a butler under twenty, and the remainder are in proportion. +The ayahs' wages are also very high, amounting to from fifteen to +twenty rupees a month; they are certainly, however, more efficient +than the same class of persons in Bengal, undertaking to wash silk +stockings, lace, and fine muslin; they are, generally speaking, +well-conducted and respectable. The dirzees or tailors are very +inferior to their brethren of Bengal, though paid at a much higher +rate, fifteen rupees a month being the common demand. Whenever a +Bengal tailor happens to come round, he is eagerly seized upon, the +reputation of workmen from the rival presidency being deservedly high. +Tailors are indiscriminately Parsees, Mohammedans, or Hindus, the +latter-named being the least desirable, as they will neither eat, +drink, nor cook in a European manner, and are always eager to get away +by half-past four in the afternoon. + +The cooks of Bombay are, for the most part, well acquainted with the +culinary art, an advantage for which, according to common report, they +are indebted to Lord Clare. Upon the arrival of that nobleman at the +seat of his government, it is said that he started with horror at the +repast which the hospitality of the island had provided for him. At +this substantial dinner, the ponderous round jostled the sirloin of +beef, saddles and haunches of mutton _vis-à -vis'd_ with each other, +while turkey and ham, tongue and fowls, geese and ducks, filled up the +interstices. + +Lord Clare had either brought a French cook in his train, or sent for +one with the least possible delay, and this accomplished person not +only reformed the _cuisine_ at Government House, but took pupils, and +instructed all who chose to pay for the acquirement in the mysteries +of his art. He found his scholars a very teachable race, and it is +only now necessary to describe the way in which any particular +method should be practised, in order to secure success. They easily +comprehend the directions given, and, what is of equal consequence, +are not above receiving instructions. Through the exertions of these +praiseworthy persons, the tables of Bombay are frequently exceedingly +well served, and nobody is actually obliged to dine upon the huge +joints which still make their appearance. + +Turkey maintains its high position, and is, with its accompaniment of +ham, considered indispensable; rounds of boiled salt-beef, plentifully +garnished with carrots, are apparently in high esteem, the carrots +being an importation from England, coming out hermetically sealed +in tin cases. What are considered the dainties of the table consist +chiefly of fresh salmon, preserved by the patent process, Highland +mutton, partridges stuffed with truffles, &c., these things, in +consequence of their rendering the dinner more expensive as well as +more _recherché_, being in great request. + +Although the high prices of provisions are adduced as the reason of +the high rate of servants' wages, as compared with those of Bengal, +this increased expenditure, according to the observations I have been +able to make, relates more to the commodities of the native bazaars +than those consumed by Europeans. The necessity of bringing in +supplies from a distance for the consumption of the island occasions +the increase of the price of grain, &c, while probably the demand +for beef, mutton, fowls, &c. not being go great as in Calcutta, these +articles are sold at a lower rate. Buffalo meat is occasionally eaten +by Europeans, a thing unheard of in Bengal; but it is not in any +esteem. + +The tables in Bombay are handsomely appointed, though not with the +same degree of splendour that prevails in Bengal, where the quantity +of plate makes so striking a display. The large silver vases, in which +butter and milk are enclosed in a vessel filled with saltpetre, which +give to the breakfast-tables of Calcutta an air of such princely +grandeur, are not in use here. + +The servants are summoned by the exclamation of "Boy" instead of the +_Qui hi_? which is so Indian-like in its expression, and has afforded +a distinguishing _soubriquet_ to the Bengallees. The word _boy_ +is said to be a corruption of _bhaee_, 'brother,' a common mode of +salutation all over the East. As it is now employed, it is often very +absurdly answered by a grey-bearded man, who has long lost all title +to the appellation. + +Notwithstanding the strength and acknowledged efficiency of the Bombay +police, it is considered expedient in every house to engage a Ramoosee +or watchman, who, while himself a professional thief, is bound in +honour to protect his employer from the depredation of his brethren. +Though, in virtue of this implied compact, the house ought to be +considered sacred, and the Ramoosee entitled to receive his wages for +the protection that his name affords, some there are who insist upon +the display of their watchfulness in a very unwelcome manner. + +Occasionally the Ramoosee, more peaceably inclined, settles himself +quietly down to sleep in the verandah, and leaves the family to the +enjoyment of repose; but there are others who disdain thus to eat the +bread of idleness, and who make it a point to raise an alarm every +hour in the night. Personal courage or strength of body is by no means +essential in a Ramoosee, all that is required of him being powerful +lungs; this qualification he cultivates to the utmost, and any thing +more dreadful than the sounds emitted in the dead of the night close +to the window nearest the head of my bed I never heard. I have started +up in the most horrible state of apprehension, fancying that the world +was at an end, while, after calming down all this perturbation, +just as I have been going to sleep again, the same fearful shout has +brought on new alarm. Vainly have I remonstrated, vainly endeavoured +to convince the Ramoosee that his duty to his employers would be +better performed by making these shocking outcries at the road-side; +he is either inflexibly silent, or waging war against my repose; for I +believe that he selects the side of the house devoted to the visit or +for the exercise of his extraordinary faculty; I cannot in any other +way account for the small disturbance he gives to the rest of the +family. + +The absolute necessity of paying one of these men, in order to secure +the forbearance of his colleagues, is illustrated by an anecdote +commonly told. It appears that two friends were living together, one +of whom had engaged a Ramoosee, while the other, not imagining it +to be incumbent upon him to incur the same expense, neglected this +precaution. One night, every thing belonging to this unfortunate +chum was stolen. The Ramoosee was summoned, and accused of not +having performed his duty. He boldly denied the charge. "All master's +property is safe," he said; "when master lose any thing, I will +account for it." + +The fidelity with which the greater number of natives, however corrupt +in other respects, fulfil all their engagements, the few instances +in which a pledge once given is forfeited, if taken into grave +consideration, would do much towards settling the point at issue +between the Bishop of London and Sir Charles Forbes. The word of a +native, generally speaking, if solemnly given, is a bond never to be +broken, while an oath is certainly not equally binding. + +In accusing the natives of a deliberate crime in the commission of +perjury, we do not sufficiently reflect upon the difference of the +religious principles which actuate Christians, and the heinous nature +in their eyes of the sin of calling upon a God of purity to witness +their falsehoods. If we could administer an oath to a native, the +profanation of which would fill him with equal horror, we should find +that he would speak the truth. A case in point occurred lately at +Aden. There are a class of Mohammedans who are great knaves, many +being addicted to cheating and theft: the evidence of these men cannot +be depended upon, since for the value of the most trifling sum they +would swear to any thing. Nevertheless, although they do not hesitate +to call upon God and the Prophet to witness the most flagrant +untruths, they will not support a falsehood if put to a certain test. +When required to swear by a favourite wife, they refuse to perjure +themselves by a pledge which they esteem sacred, and will either +shrink altogether from the ordeal or state the real fact. + +The following occurrence is vouched for by an eye-witness: "A Somali +had a dispute with a Banian as to the number of komasies he had paid +for a certain article, swearing by God and the Prophet that he had +paid the price demanded of him for the article in question; but no +sooner was he called upon to substantiate his assertions by swearing +by his favourite wife, than he threw down the article contended for, +and took to his heels with all speed, in order to avoid the much +dreaded oath." It will appear, therefore, that there is scarcely any +class of persons in India so utterly destitute of principle, as to be +incapable of understanding the obligation of an oath, or the necessity +of speaking truth when solemnly pledged to do so, the difficulty being +to discover the asseveration which they consider binding. + +In nearly every transaction with servants in India we find them most +unscrupulous respecting the truth of any account which they give, and +yet at the same time they will fulfil every engagement they enter into +with a conscientiousness almost unknown in Christian countries. The +lowest servant of the establishment may be trusted with money, which +will be faithfully appropriated to the purpose for which it was +intended, but certainly they entertain little or no respect for +abstract truth. + +The controversy at home concerning the general disregard to accuracy +manifested by the natives of India has caused much consternation here, +and will, I trust, be productive of good. It will show at least to +the large portion of the native community, who can understand and +appreciate the value of the good opinion of the country of which they +are fellow-subjects, the necessity of a strict adherence to veracity, +in order to maintain their pretensions to morality, and it will +evince the superiority of that religion which, as one of its precepts, +teaches a regard for truth. + +Willing as I feel to bear testimony to many excellent points in the +native character, I regret to say, that, although they do not deserve +the sweeping accusations brought against them, the standard by which +they are guided is very low. At the same time it must be said, that +the good faith which they observe, upon occasions in which persons +guided by superior lights would be less scrupulous, shows that they +only require a purer religious system to regard truth as we have been +taught to regard it. + + + + +CHAPTER XI. + + * * * * * + +BOMBAY--(_Continued_.) + + * * * * * + + Residences for the Governor--Parell--Its Gardens--Profusion of + Roses--Receptions at Government-house--The evening-parties--The + grounds and gardens of Parell inferior to those at Barrackpore--The + Duke of Wellington partial to Parell--Anecdotes of his Grace + in India--Sir James Mackintosh--His forgetfulness of India--The + Horticultural Society--Malabar Point, a retreat in the hot + weather--The Sea-view beautiful--The nuisance of fish--Serious effects + at Bombay of the stoppage of the trade with China--Ill-condition + of the poorer classes of Natives--Frequency of Fires--Houses of the + Parsees--Parsee Women--Masculine air of the other Native Females + of the lower orders who appear in + public--Bangle-shops--Liqueur-shops--Drunkenness amongst Natives + not uncommon here, from the temptations held out--The Sailors' + Home--Arabs, Greeks, Chinamen--The latter few and shabby--Portuguese + Padres--Superiority of the Native Town of Bombay over that of + Calcutta--Statue of Lord Cornwallis--Bullock-carriages--High price and + inferiority of horses in Bombay--Hay-stacks--Novel mode of stacking. + + +There are three residences for the accommodation of the Governor +of Bombay; one, the Castle, situated within the Fort, has been long +disused, and appropriated to government-offices; a second, at Malabar +Point, is intended as a retreat for the hot weather; Parell, the +third, being the mansion most usually occupied. + +Though not built in a commanding position, Parell is very prettily +situated in the midst of gardens, having a rich back-ground of wood, +while, from the upper windows, the eye, after ranging over these +luxuriant groves, catches a view of the sea, and is carried away to +more remote regions by the waving outline of distant hills, melting +into the soft haze until it effaces all their details. + +Parell was originally a college of Jesuits, and, after so many +alterations and improvements, that its original occupants would be +puzzled to recognise it, is now rendered worthy of the purpose to +which it is dedicated. The house is an irregular structure, without +pretension to architectural design or ornament, but having something +noble in its appearance, which is helped out by a fine portico and +battlemented roof. The interior is handsome and convenient; two +flights of marble stairs, twelve feet broad, lead into a very spacious +drawing-room, with galleries on either side, and three smaller +drawing-rooms beyond. The terrace over the portico, at the other +end, separated from this suite of apartments by a verandah, is easily +convertible into a fourth reception-room, it being roofed in by an +awning, and furnished with blinds, which in the day-time give a very +Italian air to the whole building. + +Though I have never been in Italy, the acquaintance gained of it +through the medium of illustrating pens and pencils makes me fancy +that the island of Bombay, and Parell especially, at this season of +the year (the cold weather), may bear a strong resemblance to that +fair and sunny land. + +The gardens of Parell are perfectly Italian, with their fountains and +cypress trees; though regular, they are not sufficiently symmetrical +to offend the eye, the nature of the ground and of the building, which +runs out at right angles, preventing the formality from being +carried beyond its just limit. Price, the most judicious of +landscape-gardeners, would scarcely have desired to alter arrangements +which have quite enough of the varied and the picturesque to +satisfy those who do not contend for eternal labyrinthine mazes and +perpetually waving lines. There is one straight avenue in front, but +the principal carriage-road has just the kind of curve most desirable, +sweeping round some fine trees which group themselves for the purpose +of affording an agreeable diversity. + +A broad terrace, overlooking a large tank, runs along one side of the +garden, and beyond, upon a rising hill, are seen the New Horticultural +Gardens, and a part of the picturesque village of Metunga, while the +rest is laid out in small lawns, interspersed with rounds and ovals, +fountains in the centre, surrounded by flower-beds, and flanked by +tall, slender cypresses, and the more rare, delicate, and elegant +species of palms: all this is set off by clumps of mangoes, now +covered with blossoms of dark gold burnishing their green leaves. + +It is, indeed, a fair and stately garden, enriched with many native +and foreign productions, both of tree and flower, of great beauty. In +one place, two large trees, on either side a broad gravel walk, are +united by a splendid festoon, formed by a creeper, which bears in the +greatest profusion bell-shaped flowers, at least four inches long, and +of the most beautiful pearly whiteness and fragrant scent. I regret +that my want of botanical knowledge incapacitates me from giving its +name and family. That species of palm which is called the Travellers' +Tree, and which, growing in sandy places, contains in its leaves an +ample supply of fresh water, is to be found here. It resembles the +banana or plantain, in its broad leaves, springing immediately from +the stem, but attains a much greater height, and is altogether very +striking and singular in its appearance. + +The wealth of roses at the gardens of Parell seems to exceed all +computation, bushels being collected every day without any apparent +diminution; indeed it may be questioned whether there is in any part +of the world so great a consumption of this beautiful flower as in +Bombay. The natives cultivate it very largely, and as comparatively +few employ it in the manufacture of rose-water, it is gathered and +given away in the most lavish profusion. At Parell, every morning, one +of the gardeners renews the flowers which decorate the apartments +of the guests; bouquets are placed upon the breakfast-table, which, +though formal, are made up after the most approved Parisian fashion, +the natives being exceedingly skilful in the arrangement of flowers. +Vases filled with roses meet the eye in every direction, flowers which +assume their supremacy over all other daughters of Flora, though there +are many beautiful specimens, the common productions of the gardens, +which are rarely found even in hothouses in England. + +The society of Bombay enjoys the great advantage arising from the +presence of the ladies of the Governor's family, who have rendered +themselves most deservedly popular by the frequency and the +agreeableness of their entertainments, and the kind attention which +they pay to every invited guest. The slight forms that are kept up at +Government-house are just sufficient to give a somewhat courtly air +to these parties without depriving them of their sociability. Morning +visitors are received once a-week, and upon these occasions Parell +assumes a very gay appearance. + +The band, which is an excellent one, is stationed in the hall below, +playing occasionally the most popular compositions of the day, while +its pillared verandah is filled with liveried servants, handsomely +dressed in scarlet, white, and gold. The ample staircases are lined +with flowers, and as the carriages drive up, the aide-de-camps +and other military resident guests are in readiness to receive the +visitors, and to usher them up stairs, and introduce them to the +ladies of the family. + +The morning reception lasts from eleven until two, and the numerous +arrivals from distant stations, or from England, officers continually +coming down from the army or the dominions of foreign princes, +give occasion to conversations of great interest, while it forms +a rallying-point to the whole of Bombay. The evening parties are +distinguished for the excellence of the music, the band having +improved greatly under the stimulating influence of the ladies of the +Governor's family, who are all delightful performers, one especially +excelling. In addition, therefore, to their own talents, all the +musical genius of Bombay is put into requisition, and the result is +shown in some very charming episodes between the dancing. + +At these evening parties, the brilliance of the lights, and the +beauty of the flowers, which in the supper-room especially are very +tastefully displayed, render the scene extremely attractive. One very +pleasing feature must not be omitted; in the ante-room is placed +a large silver salver, filled with bouquets, which are presented, +according to the Oriental custom, to every guest. The number and +variety of the uniforms, and the large proportion of native gentlemen, +add much to the gaiety of the appearance of these parties, and the +eye most accustomed to European splendour may find pleasure in +roaming over these spacious, well-filled, and brilliantly illuminated +apartments. + +Nor is it the interior alone that attracts; on the still moonlight +nights, which are so beautiful in India, the scenery viewed from the +windows assumes a peculiar and almost magical appearance, looking more +like a painting than living reality. The trees, so motionless that not +a leaf stirs, present a picture of such unbroken repose, that we can +scarcely imagine it to be real; the sky seems to be drawn closer to +us, while the whole breathes of divine art, suggesting poetry and +music and thoughts of Paradise. + +In England I remember feeling a longing desire to breathe the +delicious balm, and gaze upon the exquisite effects of an Indian night +again, with its tone of soft beauty and the silvery mystery of its +atmosphere, which adds so great a charm to the rich magnificence of +the foliage; and now I fancy that I can never sufficiently drink in a +scene, not only lovely in itself, but peculiarly delightful from its +contrast to the glare of the day. + +The grounds and gardens of Parell, in extent and splendour, will bear +no comparison with those of Barrackpore, which are, perhaps, some of +the finest in the world, and which must be explored in carriages or +on horseback, while the plantations and parterres at this place offer +nothing more than agreeable walks, which perhaps, after all, afford +superior gratification; at least to those who prefer a feeling of home +to the admiration elicited by great splendour. + +Not one of the least pleasing sensations excited by a residence at +Parell, is the recollection of the distinguished persons who have +inhabited the same chambers, and sat in the same halls. The Duke +of Wellington is said frequently to have expressed a partiality for +Parell, and to look back to the days of his sojourn within its walls +with pleasure. Here he reposed after those battles in which he +laid the foundation of his future glory, and to which, after long +experience, and so many subsequent triumphs as almost to eclipse +their splendour, he recurs with peculiar satisfaction. So far from +underrating, as is the fashion with many of the military servants of +the Crown, the merits of a successful campaign in India, the great +captain of the age, than whom there can be no better judge, rates the +laurels that he gathered in his earliest fields as highly as those +wrested from the soldiers of France, glorying in the title given him +by Napoleon, of "the Sepoy General." + +Few things can be more agreeable than listening to anecdotes told at +the dinner-table at Parell of the Duke of Wellington by officers who +have formerly sat at the same board with him, who have served under +his command in India, and who delight in recording those early traits +of character which impressed all who knew him with the conviction that +he was destined to become the greatest man of the age. The Duke of +Wellington, though wholly unacquainted with the language spoken in +India, was always held in the highest esteem by the natives, with +whom, generally speaking, in order to become popular, it is absolutely +necessary to be able to converse in their own tongue. He obtained, +however, a perfect knowledge of their modes of feeling, thinking, and +acting, and by a liberal policy, never before experienced, endeared +himself to all ranks and classes. It is recollected at this day +that, in times of scarcity, he ordered all the rice sent up for the +subsistence of the troops to be sold, at a moderate price, to +the starving multitude; and that, while more short-sighted people +prophesied the worst results from this measure, it obtained for him +abundant supplies, together with a name that will never be forgotten. + +A re-perusal at Parell of the "Life of Sir James Mackintosh" also +affords interest, though of a different kind. The house which Sir +James designates as large and convenient, with two really good rooms, +has been much improved since his time. It could not be expected that +a man like Sir James Mackintosh would employ many words in the +description of a mansion chiefly interesting on account of its +former occupants; but that he should have dismissed the whole of the +presidency in as summary a manner, seems perfectly unaccountable. + +It does not appear that the importance and value of British India ever +made any strong impression upon Sir James Mackintosh, who seems to +have looked upon its various inhabitants with a cold and careless eye; +to have done nothing in the way of making the people of England better +acquainted with their fellow-subjects in the East, and never to have +felt any desire to assist in the work of their improvement, or to +facilitate its progress. During his subsequent career, India appears +to have been totally forgotten, or remembered only as the scene of +an exile, in which he had found nothing to compensate for the loss of +literary society and the learned idling away of time, from which so +much was expected, and which produced so little. + +The eloquence of Sir James Mackintosh, if exerted in favour of British +India, might, years before, have excited that interest in its behalf, +which remained dormant until Bishop Heber created a new feeling upon +the subject; and in this place especially, I cannot help regretting +that the powers of so great a mind should not have been devoted to +the promotion of the welfare of a country dependant upon England for +intellectual and moral improvement, and which, in the eyes of all +reflecting persons, must be looked upon as the strongest support of +England's ancient glory. + +The garden of the Horticultural Society, which occupies a convenient +space of ground near Parell, is yet in an infant state, but bids fair +in a short time to add very considerably to the pleasures of those +persons who take delight in the cultivation of flowers and fruits. +Many gentlemen are stimulating their gardeners to make great exertions +for the prizes, which it is expected will be chiefly carried away at +the ensuing meeting by exhibitors from the Deccan. Though there are +several very good gardens in the island, they are, according to all +accounts, greatly excelled in other parts of the presidency. + +The system of cultivation carried on by the Horticultural Society +will, no doubt, tend very considerably to their improvement, while the +new method of conveying plants to and from distant places, in boxes +covered with glass, will soon enrich all the gardens, both in India +and at home, with interesting exotics. Several of these cases, +filled with bulbous and other roots, under the inspection of Messrs. +Loddiges, have arrived at Parell, and been planted out in pots; the +eases will be returned, filled with equally valuable specimens of +Indian products; and thus a continual interchange may be kept up. + +I wished much to enrich the collection of foreign plants making by +the Royal Botanical Society of London, by some of the most interesting +specimens of Indian growth, feeling deeply interested in the success +of this institution; but not being a practical gardener myself, I have +as yet been unable to fulfil my intentions. I calculated, perhaps, +too strongly upon the desire of scientific people in Bombay to promote +objects of general utility at home, and see little chance, unless I +do every thing relating to the collecting, planting, packing, and +transmitting the plants with my own hands, of succeeding in sending +any thing to England. Indeed, I find a difficulty in procuring a +_hortus siccus_. + +As every body, who can possibly get away, leaves Bombay during the hot +weather and the rains, the residence at Malabar Point, intended as +a retreat in the sultry season, is seldom tenanted by the Governor's +family. The house, however, is not very often empty, being generally +occupied by some great person and his suite, such as newly-arrived +commanders-in-chief, who are accommodated at this establishment until +they can provide for themselves. The principal residence, and +several bungalows attached to it, are erected on the side of a hill +overlooking and washed by the sea. The views are beautiful, the +harbour affording at all times a scene of great liveliness and +interest, while the aerial summits of the hills in the distance, and +their purple splendours, complete the charm. The numerous fairy-like +skiffs, with their white sails, catching the sunlight, give life and +movement to the picture, while the cottages of the fishermen are often +placed with happy effect upon the neighbouring shore. + +There are, unfortunately, serious drawbacks to the enjoyment which +the eye derives from the gliding boats and palm-crowned huts; the +amusement of _yachting_ being seriously impeded by the method of +spreading nets, for the purpose of capturing the finny tribes, while, +in consequence of the immense quantity which is caught, the whole +island occasionally smells of fish. The fishermen have certain places +secured to them by law, in which they drive immense stakes, usually +the trunks of palm-trees, and between these stakes they fasten their +nets, any damage done to them by passing boats being punishable by a +fine; the navigation of the harbour, to those who wish to visit its +beautiful islands, is, in consequence, rather difficult, and would +scarcely admit of being carried on by those small steamers, which render +every place in the neighbourhood of Calcutta so accessible. + +The boats here, with the exception of private yachts, which are not +numerous, are a disgrace to a civilized place. Nothing can be easily +imagined to be worse than the pattamars usually employed for the +conveyance of troops and travellers to distant points; they are dirty, +many so low in the roof that the passengers cannot stand upright in +them, and filled with insects and vermin. + +The abundance and cheapness of fish render it the common food of the +lower classes, and consequently its effluvia sometimes pervade the +whole atmosphere. The smell of frying fish, with its accompaniment of +oil, is sufficiently disagreeable; but this is not all; a much more +powerful odour arises from fish drying for future use, while, as it +is commonly spread over the fields and employed as manure, the scents +wafted by the breezes upon these occasions breathe any thing but +perfume. + +There are many very delicate kinds of fish, which are held in great +esteem, to be seen at European tables; but, to a stranger, the +smell of the refuse allowed to decay is quite enough, and habit must +reconcile the residents of Bombay to this unpleasant assailant of +the olfactory nerves, before they can relish the finest specimens +of pomfret or other favourite. As it can always be purchased freshly +caught, fish appears at dinner as well as at the breakfast-table in +Bombay; the list of shell-fish includes oysters, which, though not +so tempting in their appearance as those of England, are of excellent +quality. + +The fishermen, like those of Europe, leave the sale of their fish to +their wives, who are said to be a busy, bustling, active race, quite +equal to the tasks which devolve upon them, and, in consequence of the +command which their occupation gives them over the pecuniary receipts +of the house, exerting a proportionate degree of authority. + +Fishermen's huts, though very picturesque, are not usually remarkable +for their neatness or their cleanliness, and those of Bombay form no +exception to their general appearance. They are usually surrounded by +a crowd of amphibious animals, in the shape of tribes of children, who +for the most part are perfectly free from the incumbrance of drapery. +Many, who have not a single rag to cover them, are, notwithstanding, +adorned with gold or silver ornaments, and some ingeniously transform +a pocket-handkerchief into a toga, or mantle, by tying two ends round +the throat, and leaving the remainder to float down behind, so that +they are well covered on one side, and perfectly bare on the other. +Amid the freaks of costume exhibited at Bombay, an undue preference +seems to be given to the upper portion of the person, which is +frequently well covered by a warm jacket with long sleeves, while the +lower limbs are entirely unclad. + +There is said to be cotton goods to the amount of a million sterling +lying in the godowns and warehouses of Bombay, unemployed, in +consequence of the stoppage of the China trade, and it seems a pity +that the multitudes who wear gold chains about their necks, and gold +ear-rings in their ears, could not be prevailed upon to exchange a +part of this metal for a few yards of covering of some kind or other, +of which apparently they stand much in need. + +Great numbers of the poorer classes seem to be ill-fed, ill-lodged, +and worse clothed; yet scantiness in this particular is certainly not +always the result of poverty, as the redundance of precious ornaments +above mentioned can witness. Neither does the wretched manner in which +many belonging to the lower orders of Bombay shelter themselves from +the elements appear to be an absolute necessity, and it is a pity that +some regulations should not be made to substitute a better method +of constructing the sheds in which so many poor people find a +dwelling-place. The precaution of raising the floor even a few inches +above the ground is not observed in these miserable hovels, and their +inhabitants, often destitute of bedsteads, sleep with nothing but a +mat, and perhaps not even that, between them and the bare earth. + +At this season of the year, when no rain falls, the palm-branches with +which these huts are thatched are so carelessly placed, as to present +large apertures, which expose the inmates to sun-beams and to dews, +both of which, so freely admitted into a dwelling, cannot fail to +produce the most injurious effects. Were these houses raised a foot or +two from the ground, and well roofed with the dry palm-branches, which +seem to supply so cheap and efficient a material, they would prove +no despicable abodes in a country in which only at one season of the +year, the rains, very substantial shelter is required. + +As it may be supposed, conflagrations are frequent in these hovels; +they are fortunately seldom attended with loss of life, or even of +much property, since the household furniture and wardrobes of the +family can be easily secured and carried off, while the people +themselves have nothing to do but to walk out. On these occasions, the +rats are seen to decamp in large troops, and gentlemen, returning +home from drives or parties, are often arrested by a fire, and by the +instructions they afford, do much towards staying the progress of the +flames, while the greater number of natives, Parsees in particular, +look quietly on, without offering to render the slightest assistance. +Whole clusters of huts are in this manner very frequently entirely +consumed; the mischief does not spread farther, and would be little to +be lamented should it lead to the entire demolition of dwelling-places +equally unsightly, and prejudicial to health. + +Much to my astonishment, I have seen, in the midst of these very +wretched tenements, one superior to the rest placed upon a platform, +with its verandah in front, furnished with chairs, and surrounded +by all the dirt and rubbish accumulated by its poverty-stricken +neighbours, miserable-looking children picking up a scanty +subsistence, and lean cats groping about for food. Such houses +are, besides, exposed to all the dangers of fire originating in +the adjoining premises; but apparently this circumstance has been +overlooked, together with the expediency of building a little apart +from the horrors of the surrounding abominations. This is the more +remarkable, from the contrast it affords to the air of comfort which +is so often manifest in the inferior dwellings of the natives of +Bombay. + +I often, in my drives, come upon a small patch of ground, well +cultivated, and boasting vegetables, fruits, and flowers, with a small +low-roofed house of unbaked mud in one corner, having a verandah all +round, well tiled and supported on bamboos. It is difficult under this +sloping roof to get a peep at the interior, but my efforts have been +rewarded by the sight of floors cleanly swept, bedsteads, and those +articles of furniture which can scarcely be dispensed with without +suffering considerable privation. + +As yet, I have not been able to discover to what class of persons +these kind of dwellings belong, but I suspect that they are tenanted +chiefly by Parsees, a money-getting and luxurious race of people, +who are sufficiently industrious to exert themselves, with great +perseverance, to gain a living, and have the spirit to spend their +money upon the comforts and conveniences of life. They are accused of +extravagance in this particular, and perhaps do occasionally exceed; +but, generally speaking, their style of living is more commendable +than that of the Hindus, who carry their thrift and parsimony to an +outrageous height. + +Near their houses very graceful groups of Parsee women and children +are to be seen, who, upon the encouragement afforded by a smile, +_salaam_ and smile again, apparently well-pleased with the notice +taken of them by English ladies. These women are always well-dressed, +and most frequently in silk of bright and beautiful colours, worn as +a _saree_ over a tight-fitting bodice of some gay material. The manner +in which the saree is folded over the head and limbs renders it a +graceful and becoming costume, which might be imitated with great +propriety by the Hindu women, who certainly do not appear to study +either taste or delicacy in their mode of dress. + +I may have made the remark before, for it is impossible to avoid the +recurrence of observations continually elicited by some new proofs of +the contrast between the women upon this side of India, and their more +elegant sisters on the banks of the Hooghly. Here all the women, the +Parsees excepted, who appear in public, have a bold masculine air; +any beauty which they may have ever possessed is effaced, in the very +lower orders, by hard work and exposure to the weather, while those +not subjected to the same disadvantages, and who occupy a better +situation, have little pretensions to good looks. Many are seen +employed in drawing water, or some trifling household work, wearing +garments of a texture which shews that they are not indebted to +laborious occupation for a subsistence; and while the same class in +Bengal would studiously conceal their faces, no trouble whatever +of the kind is taken here. They are possibly Mahrattas, which will +account for their carelessness; but I could wish that, with superior +freedom from absurd restraint, they had preserved greater modesty of +demeanour. + +The number of shops in the bazaars for the sale of one peculiar +ornament, common glass rings for bracelets, and the immense quantities +of the article, are quite surprising; all the native women wear these +bangles, which are made of every colour. The liqueur-shops are also +very common and very conspicuous, being distinguished by the brilliant +colours of the beverage shown through bottles of clear white glass. +What pretensions this rose and amber tinted fluid may have to compete +with the liqueurs most esteemed in Europe, I have not been able to +learn. Toddy-shops, easily recognised by the barrels they contain +upon tap, and the drinking-vessels placed beside them, seem almost as +numerous as the gin-palaces of London, arguing little for the sobriety +of the inhabitants of Bombay. In the drive home through the bazaar, +it is no very uncommon circumstance to meet a group of +respectably-dressed natives all as tipsy as possible. + +It is on account of the multitude of temptations held out by the +toddy-shops, that the establishment I have mentioned as the Sailors' +Home is so very desirable, by affording to those who really desire to +live comfortably and respectably, while on shore, the means of doing +both. Here they may enjoy the advantages of clean, well-ventilated +apartments, apparently, according to what can be seen through the open +windows, of ample size; and here they may, if they please, pass their +time in rational employment or harmless amusement. Groups of sun-burnt +tars, with their large straw hats and honest English faces, are often +to be seen mingled with the crowd of Asiatics, of whom every day seems +to show a greater variety. + +I saw three or four very remarkable figures last evening; one was an +extremely tall and handsome Arab, well dressed in the long embroidered +vest, enveloping an ample quantity of inner garments, which I have +so often seen, but of which I have not acquired the name, and with a +gaily-striped handkerchief placed above the turban, and hanging down +on either side of his face. This person was evidently a stranger, +for he came up to the carriage and stared into it with the strongest +expression of surprise and curiosity, our dress and appearance seeming +to be equally novel and extraordinary to this child of the desert. +Shortly afterwards, we encountered a Greek, with luxuriant black +ringlets hanging down from under a very small scarlet and gold cap; +the others were Jews, very handsome, well-dressed men, profusely +enveloped in white muslin, and with very becoming and peculiar caps on +their heads. + +I regret to see my old friends, the China-men, so few in number, and +so shabby in appearance; yet they are the only shoemakers here, and it +ought to be a thriving trade. Their sign-boards are very amusing; one +designating himself as "Old Jackson," while a rival, close at hand, +writes "Young Jackson" upon his placard; thus dividing the interest, +and endeavouring to draw custom from the more anciently established +firm. + +The Portuguese padres form striking and singular groups, being dressed +in long black gowns, fitting tightly to the shape, and descending to +their feet. They seem to be a numerous class, and I hope shortly +to see the interiors of some of their churches. A very large, +handsome-looking house was pointed out to us by one of the servants of +whom we made the inquiry, as belonging to a Portuguese padre; it +was situated near the cloth bazaar, and I regretted that I could not +obtain a better view of it. + +My predilection for exploring the holes and corners of the native town +is not shared by many of the Anglo-Indian residents of Bombay, who +prefer driving to the Esplanade, to hear the band play, or to a place +on the sea-shore called the Breach. I hope, however, to make a tour of +the villages, and to become in time thoroughly acquainted with all the +interesting points in the island, the variety and extent of the rides +and drives rendering them most particularly attractive to a traveller, +who finds something interesting in every change of scene. + +I have accomplished a second drive through the coco-nut gardens on the +Girgaum road, a name by which this quarter of the native town is +more commonly known; the view thus obtained only excited a desire to +penetrate farther into the cross-lanes and avenues; but as I do not +ride on horseback, I have little chance of succeeding, since I could +not see much from a palanquin, and taun-jauns, so common in Calcutta, +are scarcely in use here. The more I see of what is called the Native +Town in Bombay, the more satisfied I am of its great superiority +over that of Calcutta; and I gladly make this admission, since I have +found, and still continue to find, so great a falling-off in the style +of the dress, whether it relates to form, material, or cleanliness. I +have lately observed a very handsome turban, which seems worn both by +the Mohammedans and Hindus, of red muslin, with gold borders, which is +an improvement. + +A taste for flowers seems universal, plants in pots being continually +to be seen on the ledges of the porticoes and verandahs; these are +sometimes intermingled with less tasteful ornaments, and few things +have struck me as more incongruous than a plaster bust of a modern +English author, perched upon the top of a balustrade over the portico +of a house in the bazaar; mustachios have been painted above the +mouth, the head has been dissevered from the shoulders, and is now +stuck upon one side in the most grotesque manner possible, looking +down with half-tipsy gravity, the attitude and the expression of the +countenance favouring the idea, upon the strange groups thus oddly +brought into juxta-position. The exhibition is a droll one; but it +always gives me a painful feeling: I do not like to see the effigy of +a time-honoured sage abased. + +The statue of Lord Cornwallis, on the Esplanade--which, being +surrounded by sculptured animals, not, I think, in good taste, +might be mistaken for Van Amburgh and his beasts--is close to a spot +apparently chosen as a hackney-coach stand, every kind of the inferior +descriptions of native vehicles being to be found there in waiting. + +Some of the bullock-carriages have rather a classical air, and +might, with a little brushing up and decoration, emulate the ancient +triumphal car. They are usually dirty and shabby, but occasionally +we see one that makes a good picture. The bullocks that draw it are +milk-white, and have the hanging dewlap, which adds so greatly to the +appearance of the animal; the horns are painted blue, and the forehead +is adorned with a frontlet of large purple glass beads, while bouquets +of flowers are stuck on either side of the head, after the manner of +the rosettes worn by the horses in Europe. + +A very small pair of milk-white bullocks, attached to a carriage of +corresponding dimensions, merely containing a seat for two persons, +is a picturesque and convenient vehicle, which will rattle along the +roads at a very good pace. These bullocks usually have bells attached +to their harness, which keep up a perpetual and not disagreeable +jingle. The distances between the European houses are so great, +and the horses able to do so little work, that it seems a pity that +bullocks should not be deemed proper animals to harness to a shigram +belonging to the _saib logue_: but fashion will not admit the adoption +of so convenient a means of paying morning visits, and thus sparing +the horses for the evening drive. + +Great complaints are made about the high price and the inferiority of +the horses purchaseable in Bombay, a place in which the Arab is not +so much esteemed as I had expected. Some difficulty was experienced +in obtaining very fine specimens of this far-famed race for the Queen, +who gave a commission for them. I had the pleasure of seeing four that +are going home in the _Paget_, destined for her Majesty's stables. + +The Imaum of Muscat lately sent a present of horses to Bombay, but +they were not of high caste; those I have mentioned, as intended for +the Queen, being of a much finer breed. They are beautiful creatures, +and are to be put under the care of an English groom, who has the +charge of some English horses purchased in London for a native Parsee +gentleman. From the extent of the Arab stables, and the number of Arab +horse-merchants in Bombay, it would appear easy to have the choice +of the finest specimens; but this is not the case, while various +circumstances have combined to reduce the numbers of native horses, +which were formerly readily procurable. Thus, the fine breed of +Kattywar is not now attainable, and the same value does not appear to +be set upon horses from Kutch and the Deccan, which in other parts +of India are esteemed to be so serviceable. Persian horses are +little prized; and those imported from England, though very showy and +handsome, will not do much work in this climate, and are therefore +only suited to rich people, who can keep them for display. The +stud-horses bred near Poonah do not come into the market so freely as +in the Bengal presidency, where they are easily procurable, and are +sought after as buggy and carriage horses. Old residents, I am told, +prefer the Arabs, the good qualities of these celebrated steeds +requiring long acquaintance to be justly appreciated, while persons +new to the country can see nothing but faults in them. + +A novel feature in Bombay, to persons who have only visited the other +side of India, is found in the hay-stack, the people having discovered +the advantage of cutting and drying the grass for future use. Immense +numbers of carts, drawn by bullocks and loaded with hay, come every +day into the island; this hay is stacked in large enclosures built +for the purpose, and can be purchased in any quantity. There are large +open spaces, near tanks or wells, on the road-side, which give the +idea of a hay-market; the carts being drawn up, and the patient +bullock, always an accompaniment to an Indian rural scene, unyoked, +reposing on the ground. The drivers, apparently, do not seek the +shelter of a roof, but kindle their cooking-fires on the flats on the +opposite side of the road, and sleep at night under the shelter of +their carts. The causeway which unites the island of Bombay with +its neighbour, Salsette, affords a safe and convenient road, greatly +facilitating the carriage of supplies of various kinds necessary for +the consumption of so populous a place. + +The villagers at Metunga, and other places, make as much hay as their +fields will supply for their own use, and have hit upon a singular +method of stacking it. They choose some large tree, and lodge the hay +in its branches, which thus piled up, assumes the appearance of an +immense bee-hive. This precaution is taken to preserve the crop +from the depredations of cattle, and, if more troublesome, is less +expensive than fencing it round. From the miserably lean condition of +many of the unfortunate animals, which their Hindu masters worship and +starve, it would appear that, notwithstanding its seeming abundance, +they are very scantily supplied with hay. It is a pity that some +agriculturist does not suggest the expedience of feeding them upon +fish, which, as they are cleanly animals, they would eat while fresh. + + + + +CHAPTER XII. + + * * * * * + +BOMBAY--(_Continued_). + + * * * * * + + The Climate of Bombay treacherous in the cold season--The land-wind + injurious to health--The Air freely admitted into Rooms--The + Climate of the Red Sea not injurious to Silk dresses--Advice to + lady-passengers on the subject of dress--The Shops of Bombay badly + provided--Speculations on the site of the City, should the seat of + Government be removed hither--The Esplanade--Exercise of Sailors + on Shore and on Ship-board--Mock-fight--Departure of Sir Henry + Fane--Visit to a fair in Mahim Wood--Prophecy--Shrine of Mugdooree + Sahib--Description of the Fair--Visit to the mansion of a + Moonshee--His Family--Crowds of Vehicles returning from the + Fair--Tanks--Festival of the _Duwallee_--Visit to a Parsee--Singular + ceremony--The Women of India impede the advance of improvement--They + oppose every departure from established rules--Effect of Education in + Bombay yet superficial--Cause of the backwardness of Native Education. + + +Every day's experience of the climate of Bombay assures me that, in +what is called the cold season, at least, it is the most treacherous +in the world; and that, moreover, its dangers are not sufficiently +guarded against by the inhabitants. Cold weather, such as takes place +during the period from November to March, in all parts of Bengal, is +not felt here, the days being more or less sultry, and tempered only +by cold, piercing winds. + +The land-wind, which blows alternately with the sea-breezes, comes +fraught with all the influences most baneful to health; cramps, +rheumatic pains, even head-aches and indigestion, brought on by cold, +are the consequences to susceptible persons of exposure to this wind, +either during the day or the night: so severe and so manifold are +the pains and aches which attend it, that I feel strongly inclined to +believe that Bombay, and not "the vexed Bermoothes," was the island +of Prospero, and that the plagues showered upon Caliban still remain. +Though the progress of acclimation can scarcely fail to be attended by +danger to life or limb, the process, when completed, seems to be very +effectual, since little or no pains are taken by the old inhabitants +to guard against the evil. + +Some of the withdrawing-rooms of Bombay are perfectly open at either +end, and though the effect is certainly beautiful--a charming living +landscape of wood and water, framed in by the pillars at the angles of +the chamber--yet it is enjoyed at too great a risk. Dining-rooms are +frequently nearly as much exposed, the aim of everybody apparently +being to admit as great a quantity of air as possible, no matter from +what point of the compass it blows. Strangers, therefore, however +guarded they may be in their own apartments, can never emerge from +them without incurring danger, and it is only by clothing themselves +more warmly than can be at all reconciled with comfort, that they can +escape from rheumatic or other painful attacks. + +These land-winds are also very destructive to the goods and chattels +exposed to them; desks are warped and will not shut, leather gloves +and shoes become so dry that they shrink and divide, while all +unseasoned wood is speedily split across. It is said that the hot +weather is never so fierce in Bombay as in Bengal, the sea-breezes, +which sometimes blow very strongly, and are not so injurious as those +from the land, affording a daily relief. + +It may be necessary, for the advantage of succeeding travellers, +to say that, in passing down the Red Sea, in the autumn and winter +months, no danger need be apprehended from the effects of the climate +upon coloured silks. It was not possible for me to burthen myself with +tin cases, and I was obliged to put my wearing apparel, ribbons, &c, +into portmanteaus, with no other precaution than a wrapper of brown +paper. Nothing, however, was injured, and satin dresses previously +worn came out as fresh as possible: a circumstance which never happens +in the voyage round the Cape. + +And now, while upon the subject of dress, I will further say, that it +is advisable for ladies to bring out with them to Bombay every thing +they can possibly want, since the shops, excepting immediately after +the arrival of a ship, are very poorly provided, while the packs, for +few have attained to the dignity of tin boxes, brought about by the +hawkers, contain the most wretched assortment of goods imaginable. The +moment, therefore, that the cargo of a vessel hag been purchased +by the retail dealers, all that is really elegant or fashionable is +eagerly purchased, and the rejected articles, even should they be +equally excellent, when once consigned to the dingy precincts of +a Bombay shop, lose all their lustre. The most perfect bonnet that +Maradan ever produced, if once gibbeted in one of Muncherjee's +glass-cases, could never be worn by a lady of the slightest +pretensions. Goods to the amount of £300 were sold in one morning, +it is said, in the above-mentioned worthy's shop, and those who were +unable to pay it a visit on the day of the opening of the cases, must +either content themselves with the leavings, or wait the arrival of +another ship. + +It is but justice to Miss Lyndsay, the English milliner, to say that +she always appears to be well provided; but as her establishment +is the only one of the kind in Bombay, there must necessarily be a +sameness in the patterns of the articles made up. The want of +variety is the evil most strongly felt in Anglo-Indian toilets; and, +therefore, in preparing investments, large numbers of the same pieces +of silk ribbons should be avoided, nobody liking to appear in a +general uniform, or livery. + +The stoppage of the China trade has cut off one abundant source +of supply, of which the ladies of Bombay were wise enough to avail +themselves. It is difficult now to procure a morsel of China silk in +the shops, and there appears to be little chance of any goods of the +kind coming into the market, until the present differences between +Great Britain and the Celestial Empire shall be adjusted. With +the exception of the common and trifling articles brought about by +hawkers, every thing that is wanted for an Anglo-Indian establishment +must be sent for to the Fort, from which many of the houses are +situated, four, five, or six miles. + +As there are populous villages at Bycullah, Mazagong, &c, it seems +strange that no European bazaars have been established at these +intermediate places for the convenience of the inhabitants, who, with +the exception of a few fowls, do not usually keep much in the way of +a farmyard. With an increase in the number of inhabitants, of course +shops would start up in the most eligible situations, and should +the anticipated change take place, and Bombay become the seat of the +Supreme Government, the demands of the new establishment would no +doubt be speedily supplied. + +It is impossible, however idle the speculation may be, not to busy the +mind with fancies concerning the site of the city which it is supposed +would arise in the event of the Governor-general being instructed to +take up his abode at Bombay. The Esplanade has been mentioned as the +most probable place, although in building over this piece of ground +the island would, in a great measure, be deprived of its lungs, and +the enjoyment of that free circulation of air, which appears to be so +essential to the existence of Anglo-Indians, who seem to require the +whole expanse of heaven in order to breathe with freedom. The happy +medium between the want of air and its excess will not answer the +demand, and accordingly the Esplanade, no matter how strongly the +wind blows, is a favourite resort. Although its general features are +unattractive, it occasionally presents a very animated scene; the +review of the troops in the garrison is seen to great advantage, and +forms a spectacle always interesting and imposing. + +This mustering of the troops is occasionally varied by military +exercises of a more novel nature. The sailors of the flag-ship are +brought on shore, for the purpose of perfecting themselves in the +manual and platoon exercise, and in the performance of such military +evolutions as would enable them to co-operate successfully with a land +force, or to act alone with greater efficiency upon any emergency. +Though not possessing much skill in military affairs, I was pleased +with the ease and precision with which they executed the different +movements, their steadiness in marching, and the promptness with which +the line was dressed. They brought field-pieces on shore with them, +which, according to my poor judgment, were admirably worked. These +parades were the more interesting, in consequence of the expected war +with China, a war in which the sailors of the _Wellesley_ will, no +doubt, be actively engaged. + +I had also an opportunity of witnessing from the deck of that vessel, +when accompanying the Governor's party on board, the manoeuvring of +the ship's boats while landing a force. The mock fight was carried on +with great spirit, and the most beautiful effect; the flashing from +the guns in the bows of the boats and the musketry, amid the exquisite +blue smoke issuing from the smaller species of artillery, producing +fire-works which, in my opinion, could not be excelled by any of the +most elaborate construction. The features of the landscape, no doubt, +assisted to heighten the effect of the scene--a back-ground of lovely +purple islands--a sea, like glass, calmly, brightly, beautifully +blue--and the flotilla of boats, grouped as a painter would group +them, and carrying on a running fire, which added much to the +animation of their evolutions, the smoke occasionally enveloping the +whole in vapour, and then showing the eager forms of men, as it rolled +off in silvery clouds towards the distant hills. + +As I gazed upon this armament, and upon the palm-woods that fringed +the shore, I could not help calling to mind the lawless doings of the +buccaneers of old, and the terror spread through towns and villages +by the appearance of a fleet of boats, manned by resolute crews, and +armed with the most deadly weapons of destruction. The sight realized +also the descriptions given in modern novels of the capture of towns, +and I could easily imagine the great excitement which would lead +daring men to the execution of deeds, almost incredible to those who +have never felt their spirits stirred and their arms nerved by danger, +close, imminent, and only to be mastered by the mightiest efforts. + +When any _tamasha_, as the natives call it, is going on upon the +Esplanade, near the beach, they add very considerably to the effect of +the scene, by grouping themselves upon the bales of cotton, piled near +the wharf for exportation: those often appear to be a mass of human +beings, so thickly are they covered with eager gazers. Upon the +occasion of the departure of Sir Henry Fane to England, there appeared +to be a general turn-out of the whole of Bombay, and the effect was +impressive and striking. The road down to the Bunder, or place of +embarkation, was lined with soldiers, the bands of the different +regiments playing while the _cortège_ passed. All the ladies made +their appearance in open carriages, while the gentlemen mounted on +horseback, and joined the cavalcade. A large party of native gentlemen +assembled on foot at the Bunder, for the purpose of showing a last +mark of respect to a distinguished officer, about to leave the country +for ever. + +Sir Henry, accompanied by his staff, but all in plain clothes, drove +down the road in a barouche, attended by an escort of cavalry, and +seemed to be much affected by the tokens of esteem which he received +on every hand. He left the shore amidst the waving of handkerchiefs, +and a salute of seventeen guns, and would have been greeted with +hearty cheers, did military discipline allow of such manifestation of +the feelings. + +Sights and scenes like these will, of course, always attract numerous +spectators, while on the evenings in which the band plays, there is +a fair excuse for making the Esplanade the object of the drive; but +Bombay affords so many avenues possessing much greater beauty, that +I am always delighted when I can diversify the scene by a visit to +places not nearly so much in request, but which are to me infinitely +more interesting, as developing some charm of nature, or displaying +the habits and manners of the people of the country. With these +views and feelings, I was much pleased at receiving an invitation +to accompany some friends to a fair held in Mahim Wood--that sea of +palm-trees, which I had often looked down upon from Chintapootzlee +Hill with so much pleasure. + +The fair was held, as is usual in oriental countries, in honour of +a saint, whose canonized bones rest beneath a tomb apparently of +no great antiquity, but which the people, who are not the best +chronologists in the world, fancy to be of very ancient date. The +name of the celebrated person thus enshrined was Mugdooree Sahib, +a devotee, who added the gift of prophecy to his other high +qualifications, and amongst other things has predicted that, when the +town shall join the wood, Bombay shall be no more. The accomplishment +of what in his days must have appeared very unlikely ever to take +place--namely, the junction of inhabited dwellings with the trees of +Mahim--seems to be in rapid course of fulfilment; the land has been +drained, many portions formerly impassable filled up, and rendered +solid ground, while the houses are extending so fast, that the Burruh +Bazaar will in no very long period, in all probability, extend to +Mahim. Those who attach some faith to the prophecy, yet are unwilling +to believe that evil and not good will befal the "rising presidency," +are of opinion that some change of name will take place when it shall +be made the seat of the Supreme Government: thus the saint's credit +will be saved, and no misfortune happen to the good town of Bombay. +The superstitious of all persuasions, the Christians perhaps +excepted--though many of the Portuguese Christians have little more +than the name--unite in showing reverence to the shrine of the saint, +while Mugdooree Sahib is held quite as much in estimation by the +Hindus as by the followers of he own corrupted creed, the Mohammedans +of Bombay being by no means orthodox. + +Many respectable natives have built houses for themselves at Mahim, +on purpose to have a place for their families during the time of the +fair, while others hire houses or lodgings, for which they will pay +as much as twenty rupees for the few days that it lasts. A delightful +drive brought us to the confines of the wood; the whole way along, we +passed one continuous string of bullock-carriages, filled with people +of all tribes and castes, while others, who could not afford this mode +of conveyance, were seen in groups, trudging on foot, leading their +elder children, and carrying their younger in their arms. The road +wound very prettily through the wood, which at every turn presented +some charming bits of forest scenery, shown to great advantage in the +crimson light of evening, which, as it faded, produced those wild, +shadowy illusions, which lend enchantment to every view. Parasitical +plants, climbing up the trunks of many of the trees, and flinging +themselves in rich garlands from bough to bough, relieved the monotony +of the tall, straight palm-trees, and produced delicious green +recesses, the dearest charm of woodland scenery. + +I have frequently felt a strong desire to dwell under the shade of +forest boughs, for there is something in that sylvan kind of life so +redolent of the hunter's merry horn, the mating song of birds, and +the gurgling of secret rills, as to possess indescribable charms to a +lover of the picturesque. Now, however, experience in sober realities +having dispelled the illusions of romance, I should choose a cottage +in some cleared space by the wood-side, though at this dry season of +the year, and mid the perpetual sunshine of its skies, the heart of +Mahim Wood would form a very agreeable residence. + +The first house we came to was very comfortable, and almost English +in its appearance; a small, neat mansion, with its little court-yard +before it, such as we should not be surprised to see in some +old-fashioned country village at home. Straggling huts on either side +brought us to the principal street of Mahim, and here we found the +houses lighted, and lamps suspended, in imitation of bunches of +grapes, before all that were ambitious of making a good appearance. + +After passing the shops belonging to the village--the grain-sellers, +the pan-sellers, and other venders of articles in common demand--we +came to a series of booths, exactly resembling those used for the same +purpose in England, and well supplied with both native and foreign +products. The display was certainly much greater than any I had +expected to see. Some of the shops were filled with French, English, +and Dutch toys; others with China and glass ornaments; then came one +filled with coloured glass bangles, and every kind of native ornament +in talc and tinsel, all set off with a profusion of lights. Instead of +gingerbread, there were immense quantities of _metai_, or sweetmeats, +of different shapes and forms, and various hues; sugar rock-work, +pink, white, and yellow, with all sorts and descriptions of cakes. +The carriage moved slowly through the crowd, and at length, finding it +inconvenient to proceed farther in it, we alighted. + +Our party had come to Mahim upon the invitation of a very respectable +moonshee, who had his country-house there, and who was anxious to do +the honours of the fair to the English strangers, my friends, like +myself, being rather new to Bombay. We met the old gentleman at an +opening in the village, leading to the tomb of the saint, and his +offer to conduct us to the sacred shrine formed a farther inducement +to leave the carriage, and venture through the crowd on foot. + +The tomb, which was strongly illuminated, proved to be a white-washed +building, having a dome in the centre, and four minarets, one at each +angle, standing in a small enclosure, the walls of which were also +newly white-washed, and approached by a flight of steps, leading into +a portico. Upon either side of the avenue from the village were seated +multitudes of men and women, who, if not beggars by profession, made +no scruple to beg on this occasion. + +I felt at first sorry that I had neglected to bring any money with +me, but when I saw the crowd of applicants, whom it would have been +impossible to satisfy, and recollected that my liberality would +doubtless have been attributed to faith in the virtues of the saint, +I no longer regretted the omission. The steps of the tomb were lined +with these beggars, all vociferating at once, while other religious +characters were singing with all the power of their lungs, and a +native band, stationed in the verandah of the tomb, were at the same +time making the most hideous discord by the help of all kinds of +diabolical instruments. + +Having a magistrate of our party, we were well protected by the +police, who, without using any rudeness, kept the people off. So far +from being uncivil, the natives seemed pleased to see us at the fair, +and readily made way, until we came to the entrance of the chamber in +which, under a sarcophagus, the body of the saint was deposited. Here +we were told that we could proceed no farther, unless we consented to +take off our shoes, a ceremony with which we did not feel disposed +to comply, especially as we could see all that the chamber contained +through the open door, and had no intention to pay homage to the +saint. The sarcophagus, according to custom, was covered with a rich +pall, and the devout pressed forward to lay their offerings upon it. +These offerings consisted of money, cloths, grain, fruit, &c. nothing +coming amiss, the priests of the temple being quite ready to take the +gifts which the poorest could bestow. The beggars in the porch were +more clamorous than ever, the _maam sahibs_ being especially entreated +to bestow their charity. + +Having satisfied my curiosity, I was glad to get away into the fair, +where I found many things more interesting. Convenient spaces in the +wood were filled with merry-go-rounds, swings, and other locomotive +machinery, of precisely the same description as those exhibited in +England, and which I had seen in Hyde Park at the fair held there, in +honour of Queen Victoria. Mahim Wood boasted no theatres or wild-beast +shows, neither were we treated with the sight of giants or dwarfs; but +there was no want of booths for the purpose of affording refreshment. +One of these _cafés_, the front of which was entirely open, was most +brilliantly illuminated, and filled with numerous tables, covered with +a multitude of good things. That it was expected to be the resort +of English guests was apparent, from an inscription painted in white +letters, rather askew, upon a black board, to the following effect: +"Tea, Coffee, and Pastry-House." + +We were invited to enter this splendid establishment by the moonshee, +who had evidently ordered a refection to be prepared for the occasion. +Being unwilling to disappoint the old gentleman, we took the seats +offered to us, and ate the cakes, and drank the coffee, presented by +some respectable-looking Parsees, the owners of the shop, which they +had taken pains to set off in the European style. Although the natives +of India will not eat with us, as they know that we do not scruple +to partake of food prepared for their tables, they are mortified and +disappointed at any refusal to taste the good things set before us; +the more we eat, the greater being the compliment. I was consequently +obliged to convey away some of the cakes in my handkerchief, to avoid +the alternatives of making myself ill or of giving offence. + +When we were sufficiently rested and refreshed, we followed the +moonshee to his mansion. The moon was at the full, and being at this +time well up, lighted us through the less thronged avenues of the +village, these tangled lanes, with the exception of a few candles, +having no other illumination. Here, seated in corners upon the ground, +were the more humble traders of the fair, venders of fruit, the larger +kind being divided into slices for the convenience of poor customers. +In one spot, a group of dissipated characters were assembled round +bottles and drinking-vessels (of which the contents bore neither the +colour nor the smell of sherbet), who were evidently determined to +make a night of it over the fermented juice of the palm. From what I +have seen, I am inclined to believe sobriety to be as rare a virtue +in Bombay as in London; toddy-shops appear to be greatly upon the +increase, and certainly in every direction there are already ample +means of gratifying a love of spirituous liquors. In other places, the +usual occupation of frying fish was going on, while a taste for sweet +things might be gratified by confectionary of an ordinary description +compared with that exhibited in the shops. + +As we receded from the fair, the bright illumination in the distance, +the twinkling lights in the fore-ground, dimly revealing dusky figures +cowering round their fires, and the dark depths of the wood beyond, +with now and then a gleam of moonshine streaming on its tangled paths, +made up a landscape roll of scenic effects. Getting deeper and deeper +into the wood, we came at last to a small modest mansion, standing in +the corner of a garden, and shadowed by palm-trees, through which the +moon-beams chequered our path. We did not enter the house, contenting +ourselves with seats in the verandah, where the children of our host, +his wife or wives not making their appearance, were assembled. The +elder boys addressed us in very good English, and were, the moonshee +told us, well acquainted with the Guzerattee and Mahratta languages; +he had also bestowed an education upon his daughters, who were taught +to read in the vernacular. + +The old man told us that he was born in Mahim Wood at the time of the +festival, and, though a Hindu, had had the name of Mugdooree, that +of the saint, bestowed upon him, for a good omen. Having a great +affection for his native place, he had, as soon as he could command +the means, built the house which we now saw, and in which he always +resided during the fair, which was called _oories_, or the Mugdooree +Sahib's _oories_, at Mahim. After sitting some time with the old man, +and admiring the effect of the moonlight among the palm-trees, we rose +to depart. In taking leave of the spot, I could not repress a wish to +see it under a different aspect, although it required very slight aid +from fancy to picture it as it would appear in the rains, with mildew +in the drip of those pendant palm branches, green stagnant pools in +every hollow, toads crawling over the garden paths, and snakes lurking +beneath every stone. + +Returning to the place in which we had left the carriage, we found +the fair more crowded than ever, the numbers of children, if possible, +exceeding those to be seen at English places of resort of the same +nature. The upper rooms of the superior houses, many of which seemed +to be large and handsome, were well lighted and filled with company, +many of the most respectable amongst the Hindus, Mohammedans, and +Parsees, repairing to Mahim, to recreate themselves during the +festival. The shops had put on even a gayer appearance, and though +there was no rich merchandize to be seen, the character of the meeting +being merely that of a rustic fair, I was greatly surprised by +the elegance of some of the commodities, and the taste of their +arrangement. + +It was evident that all the purchasers must be native, and +consequently I could not help feeling some astonishment at the large +quantities of expensive European toys with which whole booths were +filled. Dolls, which were to me a novelty in my late visit to Paris, +with real hair dressed in the newest fashion, were abundant; and so +were those excellent representations of animals from Germany, known by +the name of "Barking toys." The price of these things, demanded of our +party at least, was high. I had wished to possess myself of something +as a remembrance of this fair, but as the old moonshee was the only +individual amongst us who carried any money about him, I did not like +him to become my banker on this occasion, lest he should not permit me +to pay him again, and I should by this means add to the disbursements +already made upon our account. + +Upon leaving the fair, we found some difficulty in steering our way +through the bullock-carriages which almost blocked up the road, and +as we drove along the grand thoroughfare towards Girgaum, a populous +portion of the native town, the visitants seemed to increase; cart +followed upon cart in quick succession, all the bullocks in Bombay, +numerous as they are, appearing to have been mustered for the +occasion. + +In the different drives which I have taken through the island, I +have come upon several fine tanks, enclosed by solid masonry of +dark-coloured stone; but, with the exception, in some instances, of +one or two insignificant pillars or minarets, they are destitute of +those architectural ornaments which add so much splendour to the same +works in Bengal. The broad flights of steps, the richly decorated +temple, or the range of small pagodas, so frequently to be seen by +the side of the tanks and bowlies in other parts of India, are here +unknown; the more ancient native buildings which I have yet examined +being, comparatively speaking, of a mean and paltry description, while +all the handsome modern houses are built after the European manner. +There is one feature, however, with which I am greatly pleased--the +perpetual recurrence of seats and ledges made in the walls which +enclose gentlemen's gardens and grounds, or run along the roads, and +which seem to be intended as places of repose for the wayfarer, or as +a rest to his burthen. + +It is always agreeable to see needful accommodation afforded to +the poor and to the stranger; public benefits, however trifling, +displaying liberality of mind in those who can give consideration to +the wants and feelings of multitudes from whom they can hope for +no return. These seats frequently occur close to the gate of some +spacious dwelling, and may be supposed to be intended for the servants +and dependants of the great man, or those who wait humbly on the +outside of his mansion; but they as frequently are found upon the high +roads, or by the side of wells and tanks. + +The festival of the _Duwallee_ has taken place since my arrival +in Bombay, and though I have seen it celebrated before, and more +splendidly in one particular--namely, the illuminations--I never had +the same opportunity of witnessing other circumstances connected with +ceremonies performed at the opening of the new year of the Hindus. +When I speak of the superiority of the illuminations, I allude to +their taste and effect; there were plenty of lights in Bombay, but +they were differently disposed, and did not mark the outline of the +buildings in the beautiful manner which prevails upon the other side +of India, every person lighting up his own house according to his +fancy. Upon the eve of the new year, while driving through the bazaar, +we saw preparations for the approaching festival; many of the houses +were well garnished with lamps, the shops were swept and put into +order, and the horns of the bullocks were garlanded with flowers, +while fire-works, and squibs and crackers, were going off in all +directions. + +On the following evening, I went with a party of friends, by +invitation, to the house of a native gentleman, a Parsee merchant of +old family and great respectability, and as we reached the steps of +his door, a party of men came up with sticks in their hands, answering +to our old English morice-dancers. These men were well clad in white +dresses, with flowers stuck in their turbans; they formed a circle +somewhat resembling the figure of _moulinet_, but without joining +hands, the inner party striking their sticks as they danced round +against those on the outer ring, and all joining in a rude but not +unmusical chorus. The gestures of these men, though wild, were neither +awkward nor uncouth, the sticks keeping excellent time with the song +and with the action of their feet. After performing sundry evolutions, +and becoming nearly out of breath, they desisted, and called upon the +spectators to reward their exertions. Having received a present, they +went into the court-yard of the next mansion, which belonged to one of +the richest native merchants in Bombay, and there renewed their dance. + +We found in the drawing-room of our host's house a large company +assembled. The upper end was covered with a white cloth, and all +round, seated on the floor against the walls, were grave-looking +Parsees, many being of advanced years. They had their books and +ledgers open before them, the ceremony about to be commenced +consisting of the blessing or consecration of the account-books, +in order to secure prosperity for the ensuing year. The officiating +priests were brahmins, the custom and the festival--of which Lacshmee, +the goddess of wealth, is the patroness--being purely Hindu. + +The Parsees of India, sole remnant of the ancient fire-worshippers, +have sadly degenerated from that pure faith held by their forefathers, +and for which they became fugitives and exiles. What persecution +failed to accomplish, kindness has effected, and their religion has +been corrupted by the taint of Hinduism, in consequence of their long +and friendly intercourse with the people, who permitted them to dwell +in their land, and to take their daughters in marriage. Incense was +burning on a tripod placed upon the floor, and the priests muttering +prayers, which sounded very like incantations, ever and anon threw +some new perfume upon the charcoal, which produced what our friend +Dousterswivel would call a "suffumigation." These preliminaries over, +they caused each person to write a few words in the open book before +him, and then threw upon the leaves a portion of grain. After this had +been distributed, they made the circle again, and threw gold leaf upon +the volumes; then came spices and betel-nut, cut in small pieces, +and lastly flowers, and a profusion of the red powder (_abeer_) so +lavishly employed in Hindu festivals. More incense was burned, and +the ceremony concluded, the merchants rising and congratulating +each other. Formerly, when our host was a more wealthy man than, in +consequence of sundry misfortunes, he is at present, he was in the +habit of disbursing Rs. 10,000 in gifts upon this day: everybody that +came to the house receiving something. + +The custom of blessing the books, after the Hindu manner, will in all +probability shortly decline among the Parsees, the younger portion +being already of opinion that it is a vain and foolish ceremony, +borrowed from strangers; and, indeed, the elders of the party were +at some pains to convince me that they merely complied with it in +consequence of a stipulation entered into with the Hindus, when +they granted them an asylum, to observe certain forms and ceremonies +connected with their customs, assuring me that they did not place any +reliance upon the favour of the goddess, looking only for the blessing +of God to prosper their undertakings. + +This declaration, however, was somewhat in contradiction to one +circumstance, which I omitted to mention, namely, that before the +assembled Parsees rose from the floor, they permitted the officiating +brahmins to mark their foreheads with the symbol of the goddess, thus +virtually admitting her supremacy. The lamps were then lighted, and +we were presented with the usual offering of bouquets of roses, +plentifully bedewed with _goolabee pánee_, or the distilled tears of +the flower, to speak poetically; and having admired the children of +the family, who were brought out in their best dresses and jewels, +took our leave. The ladies, the married daughters and daughters-in-law +of our host, did not make their appearance upon this occasion; for, +though not objecting to be seen in public, they are not fond of +presenting themselves in their own houses before strangers. + +It is the women of India who are at this moment impeding the advance +of improvement; they have hitherto been so ill-educated, their minds +left so entirely uncultivated, that they have had nothing to amuse +or interest them excepting the ceremonies of their religion, and the +customs with which it is encumbered. These, notwithstanding that many +are inconvenient, and others entail much suffering, they are unwilling +to relinquish. Every departure from established rule, which their +male relatives deem expedient, they resolutely oppose, employing the +influence which women, however contemned as the weaker vessel, always +do possess, and always will exert, in perpetuating all the evils +resulting from ignorance. The sex will ever be found active either +in advancing or retarding great changes, and whether this activity be +employed for good or for evil, depends upon the manner in which their +intellectual faculties have been trained and cultivated. + +It appears to me that, although education is making great progress in +Bombay, all it has yet accomplished of good appears upon the surface, +it not having yet wrought any radical change in the feelings and +opinions of the people, or, excepting in few instances, directing +their pursuits to new objects. I give this opinion, however, with +great diffidence--merely as an impression which a longer residence +in Bombay may remove; meanwhile, I lose no opportunity of acquainting +myself with the native community, and I hope to gather some +interesting information relative to the probable effects of the system +now adopting at the different national schools. + +As far as I can judge, a little of Uncle Jonathan's fervour in +progressing is wanting here; neither the Anglo-Indian or native +residents seem to manifest the slightest inclination to "go ahead;" +and while they complain loudly of the apathy evinced at home to all +that concerns their advantage and prosperity, are quite content to +drowze over their old _dustoors_ (customs), and make no attempt to +direct the public attention in England to subjects of real importance. + +Though unwilling to indulge in premature remarks, these are pressed +upon me by the general complaints which I hear upon all sides; but +though everybody seems to lament the evil, no one exerts himself to +effect a remedy, and while much is talked of individually, little is +done by common consent. One great bar to improvement consists, I am +told, of the voluminous nature of the reports upon all subjects, which +are heaped together until they become so hopelessly bulky, that nobody +can be prevailed upon to wade through them. In England, at all public +meetings, a great deal of time and breath are wasted in superfluous +harangues; but these can only effect the remote mischief threatened by +Mr. Babbage, and produce earthquakes and other convulsions in distant +lands, in distant centuries; whereas the foolscap is a present and a +weighty evil, and has probably swamped more systems of improvement, +and more promising institutions, than any other enemy, however active. + +The intellectual community of India seems yet to have to learn the +advantage of placing all that relates to it in a clear, succinct, and +popular form, and of bringing works before the British public which +will entertain as well as instruct, and lead those who are employed +in legislating for our Eastern territories to inquire more deeply into +those subjects which so materially affect its political, moral, and +commercial prosperity. + + +FINIS. + + + + + + + + + + + +End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Notes of an Overland Journey Through +France and Egypt to Bombay, by Miss Emma Roberts + +*** END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 12064 *** diff --git a/LICENSE.txt b/LICENSE.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..6312041 --- /dev/null +++ b/LICENSE.txt @@ -0,0 +1,11 @@ +This eBook, including all associated images, markup, improvements, +metadata, and any other content or labor, has been confirmed to be +in the PUBLIC DOMAIN IN THE UNITED STATES. + +Procedures for determining public domain status are described in +the "Copyright How-To" at https://www.gutenberg.org. + +No investigation has been made concerning possible copyrights in +jurisdictions other than the United States. Anyone seeking to utilize +this eBook outside of the United States should confirm copyright +status under the laws that apply to them. diff --git a/README.md b/README.md new file mode 100644 index 0000000..9913d81 --- /dev/null +++ b/README.md @@ -0,0 +1,2 @@ +Project Gutenberg (https://www.gutenberg.org) public repository for +eBook #12064 (https://www.gutenberg.org/ebooks/12064) diff --git a/old/12064-8.txt b/old/12064-8.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..7e99cc2 --- /dev/null +++ b/old/12064-8.txt @@ -0,0 +1,8406 @@ +The Project Gutenberg EBook of Notes of an Overland Journey Through France +and Egypt to Bombay, by Miss Emma Roberts + +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with +almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + +Title: Notes of an Overland Journey Through France and Egypt to Bombay + +Author: Miss Emma Roberts + +Release Date: April 16, 2004 [EBook #12064] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1 + +*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK AN OVERLAND JOURNEY *** + + + + +Produced by Paul Murray, Leah Moser and the Online Distributed +Proofreading Team. + + + + + +NOTES +OF +AN OVERLAND JOURNEY +THROUGH +FRANCE AND EGYPT +TO +BOMBAY. + +BY THE LATE +MISS EMMA ROBERTS. + +WITH A MEMOIR. + +1841 + +This file was produced from images generously made available by +the Bibliothèque nationale de France (BnF/Gallica) at +http://gallica.bnf.fr + + + + + +CONTENTS. + + * * * * * + +MEMOIR + + * * * * * + +CHAPTER I. + +LONDON TO PARIS. + + Departure from London--A French Steam-vessel--Unfavourable + Weather--Arrival at Havre--Difficulties at the + Custom-house--Description of Havre--Embarkation on the Steamer for + Rouen--Appearance of the Country--Inclemency of the Weather--Arrival + at Rouen--Description of Rouen--Departure by the Boat for + Paris--Scenes and Traditions on the Banks of the Seine--Journey by the + Railroad to Paris--The _Douaniers_--Observations on the Journey up the + Seine + + * * * * * + +CHAPTER II. + +PARIS TO MARSEILLES. + + Description of Paris--Departure by the Diligence--The Country--The + Vineyards--Hotels and fare--Arrival at Lyons--Description of + the City--Departure in the Steam-boat for Arles--Descent of the + Rhône--Beauty and Variety of the Scenery--Confusion on disembarking at + Beaucaire--A Passenger Drowned--Arrival at Arles--Description of the + Town--Embarkation in the Steamer for Marseilles--Entrance into the + Mediterranean--Picturesque Approach to Marseilles--Arrival in the + Harbour--Description of Marseilles--Observations upon the Journey + through France by Ladies + + * * * * * + +CHAPTER III. + +MARSEILLES TO ALEXANDRIA. + + Vexations at the Custom-house--Embarkation on the Malta + Steamer--Difficulties of exit from the Harbour--Storm--Disagreeable + Motion of the Steam-vessel--Passengers--Arrival at Malta--Description + of the City--Vehicles--Dress of the Maltese Women--State of + Society--Church of St. John--The Palace--The Cemetery of the Capuchin + Convent--Intolerance of the Roman Catholic Priesthood--Shops, + Cafés, and Hotels--Manufactures and Products of Malta--Heat of + the Island--Embarkation on board an English Government + Steamer--Passengers--A young Egyptian--Arrival at Alexandria--Turkish + and Egyptian Fleets--Aspect of the City from the Sea--Landing + + * * * * * + +CHAPTER IV. + +ALEXANDRIA TO BOULAK. + + Description of Alexandria--Hotels--Houses--Streets--Frank + Shops--Cafés--Equipages--Arrangements for the Journey to + Suez--Pompey's Pillar--Turkish and Arab Burial-grounds--Preparations + for the Journey to Cairo--Embarkation on the Canal--Bad accommodation + in the Boat--Banks of the Canal--Varieties of Costume in + Egypt--Collision during the night--Atfee--Its wretched appearance--The + Pasha--Exchange of Boats--Disappointment at the Nile--Scarcity of + Trees--Manners of the Boatmen--Aspect of the Villages--The Marquess + of Waterford--The Mughreebee Magician--First sight of the + Pyramids--Arrival at Boulak, the Port of Cairo + + * * * * * + +CHAPTER V. + +CAIRO. + + Arrival at Boulak--Description of the place--Moolid, or Religious + Fair--Surprise of the People--The Hotel at Cairo--Description of + the City--The Citadel--View from thence--The City--The + Shops--The Streets--The interior of the Pasha's + Palace--Pictures--Furniture--Military Band--Affray between a Man and + Woman--Indifference of the Police to Street Broils--Natives beaten + by Englishmen--Visit to an English Antiquary--By-ways of + the City--Interior of the Houses--Nubian + Slave-market--Gypsies--Preparation for Departure to Suez--Mode of + driving in the Streets of Cairo--Leave the City--The Changes in + travelling in Egypt--Attractions of Cairo + + * * * * * + +CHAPTER VI. + +THE DESERT. + + Equipage for crossing the Desert--Donkey-chairs--Sense of calmness and + tranquillity on entering the Desert--Nothing dismal in its + aspect--The Travellers' Bungalow--Inconvenient construction of these + buildings--Kafila of the Governor of Jiddah and his Lady--Their + Equipage--Bedouins--Impositions practised on Travellers--Desert + Travelling not disagreeable--Report of the sailing of the + Steamer--Frequency of false reports--Ease with which an infant of + the party bore the journey--A wheeled carriage crossing the + Desert--Parties of Passengers from Suez encountered--One of Mr. Hill's + tilted Caravans--Difficulty of procuring water at the Travellers' + Bungalow--A night in the Desert--Magnificent sunrise--First sight + of the Red Sea and the Town of Suez--Miserable appearance of the + latter--Engagement of a Passage to Bombay + + * * * * * + +CHAPTER VII. + +SUEZ TO ADEN. + + Travellers assembling at Suez--Remarks on the Pasha's + Government--Embarkation on the Steamer--Miserable accommodation in the + _Berenice_, and awkwardness of the attendants--Government Ships not + adapted to carry Passengers--Cause of the miserable state of the Red + Sea Steamers--Shores of the Red Sea--Arrival at Mocha--Its appearance + from the Sea--Arrival at Aden--Its wild and rocky appearance on + landing--Cape Aden--The Town--Singular appearance of the Houses--The + Garrison expecting an attack by the Arabs--Discontent of the + Servants of Europeans at Aden--Complaints by Anglo-Indians against + Servants--Causes--Little to interest Europeans in Aden + + * * * * * + +CHAPTER VIII. + +ADEN. + + Commanding situation of Aden--Its importance in former times--But few + remains of its grandeur--Its facilities as a retreat for the piratical + hordes of the Desert--The loss of its trade followed by reduction + of the population--Speculations as to the probability of ultimately + resisting the Arabs--Exaggerated notions entertained by the Shiekhs of + the wealth of the British--Aden a free Port would be the Queen of the + adjacent Seas--Its advantages over Mocha--The Inhabitants of Aden--The + Jews--The Banians--The Soomalees--The Arabs--Hopes of the prosperity + of Aden--Goods in request there--Exports--Re-embarkation on the + Steamer--Want of attention--Makallah--Description of the place--Its + products--The Gazelle--Traveller in Abyssinia--Adventurous English + Travellers--Attractions of the Arab life--Arrival at Bombay + + * * * * * + +CHAPTER IX. + +BOMBAY. + + Contrast between landing at Bombay and at Calcutta--First feelings + those of disappointment--Aspect of the place improves--Scenery of the + Island magnificent, abounding with fine Landscapes--Luxuriance and + elegance of the Palms--Profusion and contrast of the Trees--Multitude + of large Houses in Gardens--Squalid, dirty appearance of the + Native Crowd--Costume of the Natives--Inferior to the Costume of + Bengal--Countenances not so handsome--The Drive to the Fort--The + Burrah Bazaar--Parsee Houses--"God-shops" of the Jains--General use + of Chairs amongst the Natives--Interior of the Native Houses--The + Sailors' Home--The Native Town--Improvements--The Streets animated + and picturesque--Number of Vehicles--The Native Females--The Parsee + Women--The Esplanade--Tents and Bungalows--The Fort--The China + Bazaar--A Native School--Visit to a Parsee Warehouse--Real ornamental + China-ware--Apprehension of Fire in the Fort--Houses fired by + Rats--Illumination of Native Houses--Discordant noise of Native + Magic--The great variety of Religions in Bombay productive of + lamp-lighting and drumming + + * * * * * + +CHAPTER X. + +BOMBAY--(_Continued_). + + Bombay the rising Presidency--Probability of its becoming the Seat of + Government--The Anglo-Indian Society of Bombay--Style of Living--The + Gardens inferior to those of Bengal--Interiors of the Houses more + embellished--Absence of Glass-windows an evil--The Bungalows--The + Encamping-ground--Facility and despatch of a change of + residence--Visit to a tent entertainment--Inconveniences attending a + residence in tents--Want of Hotels and Boarding-houses--Deficiency of + public Amusements in Bombay--Lectures and _Conversaziones_ suggested, + as means of bringing the native community into more frequent + intercourse with Europeans--English spoken by the superior classes + of Natives--Natives form a very large portion of the wealth and + intelligence of Bombay--Nothing approaching the idea of a City to be + seen--The climate more salubrious than that of Bengal--Wind blows hot + and cold at the same time--Convenience a stranger finds in so many + domestic servants speaking English--Their peculiar mode of speaking + it--Dress of servants--Their wages--The Cooks--Improved by Lord + Clare--Appointments of the tables--The Ramoosee Watchmen--Their + vociferations during the night--Fidelity of the Natives--Controversy + concerning their disregard of truth. + + * * * * * + +CHAPTER XI. + +BOMBAY--(_Continued_). + + Residences for the Governor--Parell--Its Gardens--Profusion of + Roses--Receptions at Government-house--The evening-parties--The + grounds and gardens of Parell inferior to those at Barrackpore--The + Duke of Wellington partial to Parell--Anecdotes of his Grace + in India--Sir James Mackintosh--His forgetfulness of India--The + Horticultural Society--Malabar Point, a retreat in the hot + weather--The Sea-view beautiful--The nuisance of fish--Serious effects + at Bombay of the stoppage of the trade with China--Ill-condition + of the poorer classes of Natives--Frequency of Fires--Houses of the + Parsees--Parsee Women--Masculine air of the other Native Females + of the lower orders who appear in + public--Bangle-shops--Liqueur-shops--Drunkenness amongst Natives + not uncommon here, from the temptations held out--The Sailors' + Home--Arabs, Greeks, Chinamen--The latter few and shabby--Portuguese + Padres--Superiority of the Native Town of Bombay over that of + Calcutta--Statue of Lord Cornwallis--Bullock-carriages--High price and + inferiority of horses in Bombay--Hay-stacks--Novel mode of stacking + + * * * * * + +CHAPTER XII. + +BOMBAY--(_Continued_). + + The Climate of Bombay treacherous in the cold season--The land-wind + injurious to health--The Air freely admitted into Rooms--The + Climate of the Red Sea not injurious to Silk dresses--Advice to + lady-passengers on the subject of dress--The Shops of Bombay badly + provided--Speculations on the site of the City, should the seat of + Government be removed hither--The Esplanade--Exercise of Sailors + on Shore and on Ship-board--Mock-fight--Departure of Sir Henry + Fane--Visit to a fair in Mahim Wood--Prophecy--Shrine of Mugdooree + Sahib--Description of the Fair--Visit to the mansion of a + Moonshee--His Family--Crowds of Vehicles returning from the + Fair--Tanks--Festival of the _Duwallee_--Visit to a Parsee--Singular + ceremony--The Women of India impede the advance of improvement--They + oppose every departure from established rules--Effect of Education in + Bombay yet superficial--Cause of the backwardness of Native Education + + + + +MEMOIR. + + * * * * * + +Experience has, especially of late years, amply refuted the barbarous +error, which attributes to Nature a niggardliness towards the minds +of that sex to which she has been most prodigal of personal gifts; +the highest walks of science and literature in this country have been +graced by female authors, and, perhaps, the purity and refinement +which pervade our works of imagination, compared with those of former +days, may not unjustly be traced to the larger share which feminine +pens now have in the production of these works. It would appear to +countenance the heretical notion just condemned, to assume that +a robust organization is essential to the proper development and +exercise of the powers of the understanding; but it is certain +that, in several instances, individuals, who have exhibited the most +striking examples of female pre-eminence, have not reached the full +maturity of their intellectual growth, but have been lost to the world +in a premature grave: to the names of Felicia Hemans and Laetitia +E. Landon, besides others, is now added that of Emma Roberts, who, +although in respect of poetical genius she cannot be placed upon +a level with the two writers just named, yet in the vigour of her +faculties, and in the variety of her talents, is worthy of being +associated with them as another evidence against the asserted mental +inequality of the sexes. + +Miss Roberts belonged to a Welsh family of great respectability. Her +grandfather, who was a gentleman of good property, and served the +office of High Sheriff for Denbighshire, North Wales, possessed the +fine estate of Kenmell Park in that county, which was disposed of +after his death to Colonel Hughes, the present Lord Dinorben, whose +seat it continues to be. He had three sons, all of whom entered a +military life, which seems to have had peculiar attractions to this +gallant family. The eldest, the late General Thomas Roberts, raised +a regiment, which became the 111th, and it is said he frequently +officiated as Gold Stick in Waiting to George the Third. A son of +General Roberts was aide-de-camp to Sir Arthur Wellesley in Portugal, +was taken prisoner by the French, and detained during the war: he +afterwards rose to the rank of lieutenant-colonel. The second son, +Colonel David Roberts, of the 51st regiment, distinguished himself in +the Peninsular war, having, on the 7th January, 1809, during Sir +John Moore's retreat, near the heights of Lugo, headed a party which +repulsed the French Light Brigade, on which occasion his cloak was +riddled with bullets, two of which passed through his right-hand, +which was amputated. He was then a major, but afterwards commanded the +regiment, in Lord Dalhousie's brigade, and subsequently in Flanders, +and was so seriously and repeatedly wounded, that his pensions for +wounds amounted to £500 a year. Colonel Roberts was an author, and +wrote, amongst other things, the comic military sketch called _Johnny +Newcome_. The youngest son, William (the father of Miss Roberts), in +the course of his travels on the continent, in early life, formed some +intimacies at the Court of St. Petersburgh (to which he was introduced +by the British Ambassador), and eventually entered the Russian +service; he was made aide-de-camp to General Lloyd, his countryman, +and served with great distinction in several campaigns against the +Turks. He afterwards entered the British army, but had not attained +a higher rank than that of captain (with the paymastership of his +regiment), when he died, leaving a widow, a son (who died a lieutenant +in the army), and two daughters. + +Emma, the youngest daughter of Captain Roberts, was born about the +year 1794. After the death of her father, she resided with her mother, +a lady of some literary pretensions, at Bath. Though possessed of a +very attractive person, though of a lively disposition, and peculiarly +fitted to shine in the gayest circles of social life, her thirst for +letters was unquenchable, and the extent of her reading proves that +her early years must have been years of application. + +Her first literary work was in the grave department of +history,--_Memoirs of the Rival Houses of York and Lancaster, or the +White and Red Roses,_ which was published in two volumes, 1827. In the +preparation of this work, Miss Roberts prosecuted her researches +into the historical records at the Museum with so much diligence +and perseverance, as to attract the notice of the officers of that +institution, who rendered her much assistance. This work did not +take hold of public attention; the narrative is perspicuously and +pleasingly written, but it throws no additional light upon the events +of the time. It is not unusual for young writers, in their first +essay, to mistake the bent of their powers. + +On the death of her mother and the marriage of her sister to an +officer of the Bengal army (Captain R.A. M'Naghten), Miss Roberts +accompanied Mrs. M'Naghten and her husband to India, in February 1828, +taking her passage in the _Sir David Scott_, to Bengal. From Calcutta +she proceeded with them to the Upper Provinces, where she spent the +years 1829 and 1830, between the stations of Agra, Cawnpore, and +Etawah. Her active and inquisitive mind was constantly employed in +noting the new and extraordinary scenes around her, the physical +aspect of the country, the peculiar traits of its population, and the +manners of both natives and Anglo-Indians: the strong and faithful +impressions they made never faded from a memory remarkably retentive. +It is to these favourable opportunities of diversified observation, in +her journeys by land and water, along the majestic Ganges, or by the +dawk conveyance in a palanquin, and in her residence for so long a +period away from the metropolis of British India, which exhibits but +a mongrel kind of Eastern society, that the English public owe +those admirable pictures of Indian scenery and manners, which have +conquered, or contributed to conquer, its habitual distaste for such +topics. + +Whilst at Cawnpore, Miss Roberts committed to the press a little +volume of poetry, entitled _Oriental Scenes_, which she dedicated to +her friend Miss Landon, then rising into eminence under the well-known +designation of L.E.L. This volume, which she republished in England, +in 1832, contains some very pleasing specimens of glowing description, +graceful imagery, and well-turned expression, which show that her +powers required only cultivation to have secured to her a respectable +rank among modern poets. + +Mrs. M'Naghten died in 1831, and about this time (either soon after +or shortly before the death of her sister), she exchanged provincial +scenes and society for the more cheerful atmosphere of Calcutta, where +a new world of observation and of employment opened to her. The sketches +she has given of the City of Palaces, and of its inhabitants, prove how +accurately she had seized their characteristic features. Here her pen +was called into incessant activity; besides various contributions +to Annuals and other ephemeral works, Miss Roberts undertook the +formidable task (doubly formidable in such a climate) of editing a +newspaper, and the _Oriental Observer_, whilst under her direction, +was enriched by some valuable articles written by herself, indicating +the versatility of her talents, the extent of her resources, and the +large area of knowledge over which her active mind had ranged. + +This severe over-employment, however, entailed the inevitable penalty, +loss of health, and in 1832, being now bound by no powerful tie to +India, and looking forward, perhaps, with innocent ambition, to a less +confined theatre for the display of her talents and acquisitions, she +quitted the country, and returned to England, the voyage completely +repairing the injury which the climate of India had wrought upon her +constitution. The reputation she had acquired preceded her to this +country, where she had many literary acquaintances, some of whom had +reached a high station in public esteem; and her entrance into the +best literary circles of the metropolis was thereby facilitated; +but the position which she was entitled to claim was spontaneously +conceded to talents such as hers, set off by engaging and unaffected +manners, warmth and benevolence of heart, equanimity and serenity of +temper. + +The fruits of her observations in the East were given to the world +in several series of admirable papers, published in the _Asiatic +Journal_,[A] a periodical work to which she contributed with +indefatigable zeal and success, from shortly after her return to +England until her death. A selection of those papers was published, in +three volumes, in 1835, under the title of _Scenes and Characteristics +of Hindostan_, which has had a large circulation, and (a very unusual +circumstance attending works on Indian subjects) soon reached a second +edition. This work established Miss Roberts's reputation as a writer +of unrivalled excellence in this province, which demands a union of +quick and acute discernment with the faculty of vivid and graphic +delineation. Of the many attempts which have been made in this country +to furnish popular draughts of Indian "Scenes and Characteristics," +that of Miss Roberts is the only one which has perfectly succeeded. + +Her pen now came into extensive requisition, and the miscellaneous +information with which she had stored her mind enabled her, with +the aid of great fluency of composition and unremitted industry, to +perform a quantity and a variety of literary labour, astonishing to +her friends, when they considered that Miss Roberts did not seclude +herself from society, but mixed in parties, where her conversational +talents rendered her highly acceptable, and carried on, besides, a +very extensive correspondence. History, biography, poetry, tales, +local descriptions, foreign correspondence, didactic essays, even the +culinary art, by turns employed her versatile powers. Most of these +compositions were occasional pieces, furnished to periodical works; +to some she attached her name, and a few were separately published. +Amongst the latter is a very pleasing biographical sketch of Mrs. +Maclean (formerly Miss Landon), one of her oldest and dearest friends. + +It was now seven years since she had quitted British India, during +which period important events had occurred, which wrought material +changes in its political and social aspects. The extinction of the +East-India Company's commercial privileges had imparted a new tone to +its government, given a freer scope to the principle of innovation, +and poured a fresh European infusion into its Anglo-Indian society; +steam navigation and an overland communication between England and her +Eastern empire were bringing into operation new elements of +mutation, and the domestic historian of India (as Miss Roberts may be +appropriately termed) felt a natural curiosity to observe the progress +of these changes, and to compare the British India of 1830 with that +of 1840. With a view of enlarging the sphere of her knowledge of +the country, and of deriving every practicable advantage from a +twelve-months' visit, she determined to examine India on its Western +side, and (contrary to the urgent advice of many of her friends) +to encounter the inconveniences of performing the journey overland, +through France and Egypt. Previous to her departure, she entered into +an arrangement with the _Asiatic Journal_ (the depository of most of +her papers on Indian subjects) to transmit, on her way, a series of +papers for publication in that work, descriptive of the objects +and incidents met with in the overland route, and of the "rising +presidency," as she termed Bombay. By a singular coincidence, the last +paper of this series was published in the very number of the _Asiatic +Journal_[B] which announced her death. These papers, which are now +before the reader, carry on the biography of Miss Roberts almost to +the end of her life. + +She quitted England in September, 1839, and, having suffered few +annoyances on the journey, except a fever which attacked her in the +Gulf, arrived in Bombay in November, where she experienced the most +cordial reception from all classes, including the Governor and the +most respectable of the native community. Miss Roberts was known to +Sir James Carnac, and in his Excellency's family she became a guest +for some time, quitting his hospitable mansion only to meet with a +similar cordiality of welcome from other friends, at the presidency +and in the interior. Her residence at Parell has enabled her to draw, +with her accustomed felicity, in one of the papers published in this +volume, a lively sketch of the domestic scenes and public receptions, +as well as the local scenery, at this delightful place. It appears +from her letters that Miss Roberts meditated a tour into Cutch or +Guzerat, which probably was prevented by her subsequent illness. "It +is my intention," she wrote from Parell, December 30th, 1839, "to go +into the provinces, as I have received numerous invitations; I am at +present divided between Guzerat and Cutch: by going to the latter, I +might have an opportunity of seeing Scinde, the new Resident, Captain +Outram, being anxious that I should visit it." She adds: "I have +received much attention from the native gentlemen belonging to this +presidency, and have, indeed, every reason to be pleased with my +reception." She had projected a statistical work on this part of +India, and in her private letters she speaks with grateful enthusiasm +of the liberality with which the government records were opened to +her, and of the alacrity with which Europeans and natives forwarded +her views and inquiries. In a letter dated in February, 1840, she +says: "I am very diligently employed in collecting materials for my +work; I am pleased with the result of my labours, and think I shall be +able to put a very valuable book upon Bombay before the public. I +hope to go in a short time to Mahableshwar, and thence to Sattara, +Beejapore, &c." Her literary aid was invoked by the conductors of +periodical works at Bombay, to which she furnished some amusing +pictures of home-scenes, drawn with the same spirit and truth as her +Indian sketches. She likewise undertook the editorship of a new weekly +paper, the _Bombay United Service Gazette_, and with the benevolence +which formed so bright a feature in her character, she engaged +with zeal in a scheme for rescuing the native women, who (as her +observation led her to believe) impede the progress of improvement, +from the indolence in which they are educated, by devising employments +for them suited to their taste and capacity. The concluding chapter +of this volume contains some very sound and salutary reflections upon +native education. + +Perhaps too close and unremitting application, in a climate which +demands moderation in all pursuits that tax the powers of either mind +or body, produced or aggravated a disease of the stomach, with which +this lady was seriously attacked when on a visit to Colonel Ovans, the +Resident at Sattara. Some indication of disordered health manifested +itself whilst she was in the Hills. Writing from thence in April, and +adverting to some incident which caused her vexation, she observed: +"My health is failing me, and I can scarcely bear any increased +subject of anxiety." She experienced in the family of Colonel Ovans +all the attention and sympathy which the kindest hospitality could +suggest; but her disorder increasing, she removed, in the hope of +alleviating it by change of air, to Poona, and arrived at the house of +her friend, Colonel Campbell, in that city, on the 16th of September. +She expired unexpectedly on the following morning. Her remains are +deposited near those of one of her own sex, who was also distinguished +for her literary talents, Miss Jewsbury. + +The death of Miss Roberts excited universal sorrow amongst all +classes, European and native, at Bombay, as well as at the other +presidencies, especially Calcutta, where the most cordial and +flattering tributes to her memory appeared in the public journals. She +had nearly completed her inquiries, and accomplished all the objects +for which she had revisited the treacherous clime of India, and one of +her latest letters to the writer of this Memoir expressed a cheerful +anticipation of her speedy return to England! "I positively leave +India next October, and am now looking joyfully to my return." + +The person and manners of Miss Roberts were extremely prepossessing. +In early life, she was handsome; and although latterly her figure +had attained some degree of fulness, it had lost none of its ease and +grace, whilst her pleasing features, marked by no lines of painful +thought, were open and expressive, beaming with animation and good +humour. She had not the slightest tinge of pedantry in her manner and +deportment, which were natural and affable, so that a stranger never +felt otherwise than at ease in her society. It was not her ambition +to make a display of mental superiority, which inspires the other sex +with any feelings but those of admiration--which is, indeed, tacitly +resented as a species of tyranny, and frequently assigned as the +ground of a certain prejudice against literary ladies. "It may safely +he said," observes a friend of her's at Calcutta, "that, although +devoted to literature as Miss Roberts was, yet in her conversation and +demeanour she evinced less of what is known as '_blue_' than any +of her contemporaries, excepting Miss Landon." Another Calcutta +acquaintance says: "Though her mind was deeply interested in subjects +connected with literature, her attention was by no means absorbed by +them, and she mixed cordially and freely in society without the least +disposition to despise persons of less intellectual elevation. She +had a true relish of all the little pleasures that promiscuous society +affords, and did not underrate those talents which are better fitted +for the drawing-room than the study." Her warmth of heart and kindness +of disposition, which co-operated with her good sense in thus removing +all disagreeable points from her external character, made her the +sincerest of friends, and ever ready to engage in any work of charity +or benevolence. + +It would be affectation to attempt in this slight Memoir to elaborate +a picture of the intellectual character of Miss Roberts, cut off, +as she has been, before that character had been fully developed. The +works, upon which her reputation as a writer principally rests, are +not, perhaps, of a quality which calls for any commanding powers +of mind. Her business was with the surfaces of things; her skill +consisted in a species of photography, presenting perfect fac-similes +of objects, animate and inanimate, in their natural forms and hues. +Deep investigations, profound reflections, and laboured and learned +disquisitions, would have defeated the very object of her lively +sketches, which was to make them, not only faithful and exact, but +popular. Of her success in this design, the following testimony from a +competent authority, the _Calcutta Literary Gazette_, is distinct +and decisive; and with this extract we may fitly close our melancholy +office: "Nothing can be more minute and faithful than her pictures of +external life and manners. She does not, indeed, go much beneath the +surface, nor does she take profound or general views of human nature; +but we can mention no traveller, who has thrown upon the printed page +such true and vivid representations of all that strikes the eye of +a stranger. Her book, entitled _Scenes and Characteristics of +Hindostan_, is the best of its kind. Other travellers have excelled +her in depth and sagacity of remark, in extent of information, and in +mere force or elegance of style; but there is a vivacity, a delicacy, +and a truth in her light sketches of all that lay immediately before +her, that have never been surpassed in any book of travels that is +at this moment present to our memory. She had a peculiar readiness in +receiving, and a singular power of retaining, first impressions of the +most minute and evanescent nature. She walked through a street or a +bazaar, and every thing that passed over the mirror of her mind left +a clear and lasting trace. She was thus enabled, even years after a +visit to a place of interest, to describe every thing with the same +freshness and fidelity as if she had taken notes upon the spot. +They who have gone over the same ground are delighted to find in +the perusal of her pages their own vague and half-faded impressions +revived and defined by her magic glass, while the novelty and +vividness of her foreign pictures make her home-readers feel that they +are nearly as much entitled to be called travellers as the fair author +herself." + + +[Footnote A: The first appeared in the Journal for December, 1832.] + +[Footnote B: For December, 1840.] + + + + +CHAPTER I. + + * * * * * + +LONDON TO PARIS. + + * * * * * + + Departure from London--A French Steam-vessel--Unfavourable + Weather--Arrival at Havre--Difficulties at the + Custom-house--Description of Havre--Embarkation on the Steamer for + Rouen--Appearance of the Country--Inclemency of the Weather--Arrival + at Rouen--Description of Rouen--Departure by the Boat for + Paris--Scenes and Traditions on the Banks of the Seine--Journey by the + Railroad to Paris--The _Douaniers_--Observations on the Journey up the + Seine. + + +A strong predilection in favour of river scenery induced me, at the +commencement of an overland journey to Bombay, through France and +Egypt, to take a passage from London in a steamer bound to Havre. +Accordingly, on the 1st of September, 1839, accompanied by some +friends, one of whom was to perform the whole journey with me, I +embarked on board the _Phénix_, a French vessel, which left the Tower +Stairs at about ten o'clock in the morning. + +The weather was showery, but occasional gleams of sunshine encouraged +us to hope that it might clear up, and permit us to keep the deck +during the greater part of the voyage, which we expected to perform in +eighteen hours. To the majority of readers, in these days of universal +travelling, it will be superfluous to describe a steam-boat; but there +may possibly be some quiet people who are still ignorant of the sort +of accommodation which it affords, and to whom the description will +not be unacceptable. + +The _Phénix_ is a fine vessel of its class, five hundred tons burthen, +and 160-horse power. It was handsomely fitted up, and the vases of +flowers upon the chimney-piece in the principal saloon, and other +ornaments scattered about, gave to the whole a gay appearance, as if +the party assembled had been wholly bent upon pleasure. The ladies' +cabin was divided by a staircase; but there were what, in a sort of +mockery, are called "state-cabins" opening into that appropriated to +the general use, around which were sofas, and bed-places upon a sort +of shelf above, for the accommodation of the gentlemen. This apartment +was handsomely carpeted, and otherwise well furnished; the steward +and his assistant having the appearance of the better class of waiters +belonging to a well-frequented hotel: all the servants were English, +and the whole afforded a most delightful contrast to the sort of +packets which many of the party on board were quite old enough to +remember. + +The passengers were numerous, and apparently inclined to make +themselves agreeable to each other; one, an American, objected to the +sight of a footman, who came upon the quarter-deck for a few minutes, +observing that such a thing would not be permitted in his country. + +As soon as the vessel got under weigh, preparations were made for +breakfast, which was served, _à la fourchette_, in very excellent +style, the cookery being a happy combination of the French and English +modes. At the conclusion of the repast, we repaired to the deck, all +being anxious to see the _British Queen_, which was getting her steam +up, at Gravesend. We were alongside this superb vessel for a few +minutes, putting some persons on board who had come down the river +in the _Phénix_ for the purpose of paying it a visit; and taking +advantage of a favourable breeze, we hoisted a sail, and went along at +a rate which gave us hope of a speedy arrival at Havre. + +After passing the Nore, however, our progress was impeded; and at +length, when off Margate, we were obliged to lie-to, in order to wait +for the turn of the tide: the wind blowing so strongly as to render +it questionable whether we could get round the Foreland. The sun +was shining on the buildings at Margate, and the bells knolling for +evening service; affording a home-scene of comfort and tranquillity +which it was agreeable to carry abroad as one of the last +reminiscences of England. + +In about three hours, we got the steam up again, and saw the +_British Queen_ in the distance, still lying to, and apparently, +notwithstanding her prodigious power, unable to get down the Channel. + +Dinner was served while the _Phénix_ lay off Margate; but it was +thinly attended, the motion of the vessel having sent many persons to +their cabins, while others were totally deprived of all appetite. An +elderly gentleman, who sate upon my left hand, complained exceedingly +of his inability to partake of the good things before him; and one or +two left the table in despair. Again we sought the deck, and saw the +sun sink behind an ominous mass of clouds; the sky, however, cleared, +and the stars came out, reviving our spirits with hopes of a fine +night. Unfortunately, soon after nine o'clock, a heavy squall +obliged us to go below, and one of my female friends and myself took +possession of a state cabin, and prepared to seek repose. + +It was my first voyage on board a steamer, and though the tremulous +motion and the stamping of the engine are anything but agreeable, I +prefer it to the violent rolling and pitching of a sailing vessel. We +were certainly not nearly so much knocked about; the vases of flowers +were taken off the mantel-piece, and placed upon the floor, but beyond +this there were no precautions taken to prevent the movables from +getting adrift; every thing remained quiet upon the tables, a +circumstance which could not have happened in so heavy a sea in any +vessel not steadied by the apparatus carried by a steamer. + +The _Phénix_ laboured heavily through the water; a torrent of rain +soon cleared the deck of all the passengers, and the melancholy voices +calling for the steward showed the miserable plight to which the male +portion of the party was reduced. Daylight appeared without giving +hope of better weather; and it was not until the vessel had reached +the pier at Havre, which it did not make until after three o'clock +P.M. on Monday, that the passengers were able to re-assemble. Many +had not tasted food since their embarkation, and none had been able to +take breakfast on the morning of their arrival. + +And here, for the benefit of future travellers, it may not be amiss +to say, that a small medicine-chest, which had been packed in a +carpet-bag, was detained at the custom-house; and that the following +day we experienced some difficulty in getting it passed, being told +that it was contraband; indeed, but for an idea that the whole party +were going on to Bombay, and would require the drugs for their own +consumption, we should not have succeeded in rescuing it from the +hands of the Philistines. The day was too far advanced to admit of +our getting the remainder of the baggage examined, a mischance which +detained us a day at Havre, the steamer to Rouen starting at four +o'clock in the morning. + +The weather was too unpropitious to admit of our seeing much of the +environs of the town. Like all English travellers, we walked about as +much as we could, peeped into the churches, made purchases of things +we wanted and things we did not want, and got some of our gold +converted into French money. We met and greeted several of our +fellow-passengers, for though little conversation, in consequence of +the inclemency of the weather, had taken place on board the _Phénix_, +we all seemed to congratulate each other upon our escape from the +horrors of the voyage. + +The gale increased rather than abated, and we now began to entertain +fears of another day's detention at Havre, the steamer from Rouen not +having arrived; and though we were very comfortably lodged, and found +the town superior to the expectations we had formed of a sea-port of +no very great consideration, we had no desire to spend more time in it +than we could help. + +Havre appears to carry on a considerable commerce with India, several +shops being wholly devoted to the sale of the productions of the +East, while the number of parrots and monkeys to be seen show that the +intercourse must be very extensive. The shops had a very English +air about them, and though the houses were taller, and rather more +dilapidated in their appearance, than they are usually found at home, +they reminded us of familiar scenes. _Hamlet_ was announced for the +evening's performance at the theatre, and but for the novelty of +dining at a _table d'hôte_, we might have fancied ourselves still in +England. + +The Hotel de l'Europe is the best in Havre; there are several others +very respectable, and more picturesque, from the ancient style of the +building: all were full, intercourse with Havre being on the +increase. English carriages were arriving every hour; the steamer from +Southampton brought an immense number of passengers, and travellers +seemed to flock in from every part of the world. We were amused by +seeing a well-dressed and well-mannered Russian lady, at the _table +d'hôte_, fill her plate half-full of oil, and just dip the salad into +it. + +It was the first time that one of my friends and myself had ever +visited France, and we endeavoured as much as possible to accommodate +ourselves to the manners of a strange country. We could not, however, +entirely give up our English habits, and ordered tea in the evening in +our private apartments: the French are by this time well accustomed to +requisitions of this nature, and few places are now unsupplied with a +tea-pot. + +On Tuesday morning, we were up at four o'clock, in order to embark +on board the steamer for Rouen. It rained heavily, and any hopes, the +interposition of the high houses gave, that the wind had abated, were +destroyed upon turning the first angle, and after a hasty glance at +the threatening sky and surging waters, we went below, intending, if +possible, to remain there until the weather should clear. + +Passengers now came flocking in; many respectable French families, +with their children and neatly dressed _bonnes_, were of the party; +but the young folk speedily becoming very sick, we sought the deck, +and in spite of the rain, which still continued to fall, established +ourselves as well as we were able. + +Upon entering the river, the turbulence of the water subsided a +little, and a gleam of sunshine, the first that smiled upon us, shewed +a chateau and town nestling in the midst of gardens and orchards, +and spreading down to the water's edge. The banks on either side were +picturesque, presenting the most pleasing pictures of rural enjoyment, +and conveying an idea of comfort which we had not previously +associated with the smaller classes of country residences in France. +The houses were cleanly on the outside, at least, and neither paint +nor white-wash was spared in their decoration; the surrounding +parterres were gay with flowers, amid which, as with us, dahlias made +a very conspicuous appearance. They were not, we thought, quite so +large and luxuriant as those which we see in our cottage-gardens at +home; and this remark we found afterwards would apply to the more +carefully tended plants in the pleasure-grounds of palaces. We +are probably more skilful in the adaptation of soil to foreign +importations, and therefore succeed in producing a finer flower. + +In my baggage I had brought a large basket-full of the roots of our +English hearts-ease, as a present to a French gentleman, who had +expressed a wish, in the early part of the summer, to take some with +him from London, he having been much delighted with the superior +beauty of those which he had seen in our English gardens; they were +not then in a fit state for transplanting, and having, through the +kindness of the secretary of the Royal Botanic Society, been enabled +to carry away an extensive and choice collection of roots, I indulge +a hope that I may be instrumental in spreading the finest varieties of +this pretty flower throughout France. + +We lost, of course, many scenes of beauty and interest, in consequence +of the inclemency of the weather. Just as we arrived at a most +beautiful place, a church of elegant architecture rising in the +centre, with gay-looking villas clustered round, the gathering clouds +united over our devoted heads, the rain, descending in a cataract, +beat down the smoke to the very decks, so that we all looked and felt +as if we had been up the chimney, and the whole lovely scene was lost +to us in a moment. The rain continued for about an hour after this, +and then the sky began to clear. + +We reached Rouen at about half-past twelve. The approach is very fine, +and the city makes an imposing appearance from the river. We had been +recommended to the Hotel d'Angleterre, which is the best, but were so +strongly tempted to rush into the hotel immediately opposite, that, +trusting to its exterior, we hastened to house ourselves, and found +no reason to repent our choice. We were shown into very handsome +apartments, and found the staircases, lobbies, and ante-chambers as +clean as we could desire. A change of attire and breakfast enabled us +to sally forth to see as much of the town and its neighbourhood as our +time would admit. + +The modern portion of Rouen is extremely handsome; the quay being +lined with a series of lofty stone mansions, built in the style which +is now beginning to be adopted in London. The public buildings are +particularly fine, and there are two splendid bridges, one of stone, +and one upon the suspension principle. Very extensive improvements are +going on, and it seems as if, in the course of a very few years, +the worst portions of the town will be replaced by new and elegant +erections. Meantime, imagination can scarcely afford more than a faint +idea of the horrors of the narrow, dirty streets, flanked on either +side by lofty squalid houses, in the very last stage of dilapidation. + +The cathedral stands in a small square, or market-place, where the +houses, though somewhat better than their neighbours in the lanes, +have a very miserable appearance; they make a striking picture, but +the reality sadly detracts from the pleasure which the eye would +otherwise take in surveying the fine old church, with which, through +the medium of engravings, it has been long familiar. Many workmen are +at present employed in repairing the damage which time has inflicted +upon this ancient edifice. + +The interior, though striking from its vastness, is at first rather +disappointing, its splendid windows of stained glass being the most +prominent of its ornaments. In pacing the long aisles, and pausing +before the small chapels, the scene grows upon the mind, and the +monuments, though comparatively few, are very interesting. An effigy +of Richard Coeur de Lion, lately discovered while looking for the +fiery monarch's heart, which was buried in Rouen, is shown as one of +the chief curiosities of the place. + +The porter of the cathedral inhabited an extremely small dwelling, +built up against the wall, and surrounded by high, dark buildings; but +we were pleased to see that he had cheered this dismal place of abode +by a gay parterre, several rich-looking flowers occupying pots beneath +his windows. + +Our next pilgrimage was to the statue of Joan of Arc, which we +approached through narrow streets, so dirty from the late heavy rains, +as to be scarcely passable. We had, as we might have expected, little +to reward us, except the associations connected with the Maid of +Orleans, and her cruel persecutors. The spot had been to me, from my +earliest years, one which I had felt a wish to visit, my researches, +while writing the Memoirs of the Rival Houses of York and Lancaster, +materially increasing the interest which an earlier perusal of the +history of England and France had created, concerning scenes trodden +by the brave, the great, and the good. However mistaken might have +been their notions, however impolitic their actions, we cannot +contemplate the characters of the Paladins, who have made Rouen +famous, without feelings of respect. The murder of Joan of Arc formed +the sole blot on the escutcheon of John Duke of Bedford, and the +faults and vices of his companions in arms were the offspring of the +times in which they lived. + +We were surprised by the excellence of the shops, even in the most +dilapidated parts of the city of Rouen, the windows in every direction +exhibiting a gay assemblage of goods of all descriptions, while the +confectioners were little, if at all, inferior to those of Paris. +One small square in particular, in which a market was held, was very +striking, from the contrast between the valuable products sold, and +the houses which contained them. Seven or eight stories in height, +weather-stained, and dilapidated, the lower floors exhibited handsome +porcelain and other costly articles, which gave an impression of +wealth in the owners, that astonished those amongst our party who were +strangers to the country. Our hearts absolutely sunk within us as +we thought of the wretchedness of the interiors, the misery of being +obliged to inhabit any one of the numerous suites of apartments rising +tier above tier, and from which it would be absolutely impossible to +banish vermin of every description. + +The French appear certainly to be beginning to study home comforts, +all the modern houses being built upon very commodious plans; still +the middling classes, in the towns at least, are miserably lodged, +in comparison with the same grades in England, families of apparently +great respectability inhabiting places so desolate as to strike one +with horror. + +After picking our way through the least objectionable of the streets +in the heart of the city, we were glad to escape into the open air, +and solace ourselves with the views presented on the neighbouring +heights. Nothing can be finer than the landscapes round Rouen; every +necessary of life appears to be cheap and plentiful, and persons +desirous of a quiet and economical residence abroad might spend their +time very happily in the outskirts of this picturesque city. + +We found the guests at the _table-d'hôte_ chiefly English, travellers +like ourselves, and some of our party recognised London acquaintance +among those who, upon hearing our intention to proceed the following +day up the Seine to Paris, recommended the boat by which they had +arrived--the _Etoile_. + +Again we were summoned at four o'clock in the morning, and wended our +way, along the banks of the river, to the starting-place, which was +just beyond the second bridge. The one large boat, which conveyed +passengers from Havre, was here exchanged for two smaller, better +suited to the state of the river. We were taught to expect rather a +large party, as we had understood that forty persons were going from +our hotel. + +The bell of the _Dorade_, the opposition vessel, was sounding its +tocsin to summon passengers on board, while ours was altogether mute. +Presently, through the grey mist of the morning, we observed parties +flocking down to the place of embarkation, who, somewhat to our +surprise, all entered the other vessel. A large boat in the centre, in +which the baggage is deposited, was speedily filled, carpet bags being +piled upon carpet bags, until a goodly pyramid arose, which the rising +sun touched with every colour of the prism. The decks of the _Dorade_ +were now crowded with passengers, while two respectable-looking young +women, in addition to ourselves, formed the whole of our company. + +Our bell now gave out a few faint sounds, as if rather in compliance +with the usual forms observed, than from any hope that its warning +voice would be heeded; and getting up our steam, we took the lead +gallantly, as if determined to leave the heavier boat behind. +Presently, however, the _Dorade_ passed us with all her gay company, +and speeding swiftly on her way, would have been out of sight in a few +minutes, but for the windings of the river, which showed us her smoke +like a pennon in the distance. We were now left alone in our glory, +and felt assured of what we had more than suspected before, namely, +that we had got into the wrong boat. We then, though rather too +late, inquired the cause of the extraordinary disproportion of the +passengers, and were told that the _Etoile_ was the favourite boat +going down the river, while the _Dorade_ had it hollow in going up. + +We now began to consider the circumstances of the case, and the +chances of our not arriving time enough at the place of debarkation +to get on to Paris by the rail-road that night. Agreeing that the +detention would not be of the least consequence, that we should enjoy +having the whole boat to ourselves, and the slow method of travelling, +which would enable us the better to contemplate the beauties of the +river, we made up our minds to a day of great enjoyment. The weather +was fine, a cool breeze allaying the heat of the sun, which shone upon +us occasionally through clouds too high to afford any apprehension of +rain. + +The boat was very elegantly fitted up below, the ladies' cabin, in +particular, being splendidly furnished. Above, the choice of seats +proved very acceptable, since, in consequence of a new-fangled +apparatus, we had four chimnies, whence sparks escaped in a constant +shower, threatening destruction to any garment that might be exposed +to them. Seated, therefore, at the prow, beyond the reach of this +fiery shower, after partaking of an excellent breakfast, there being +a first-rate _restaurateur_ on board, we began to converse with a very +intelligent boatman, who amused us with the legends of the river and +accounts of the different places which we passed. + +At Blossville-Bon-Secours there is an extremely steep hill, with a +chapel, dedicated to the Virgin, at the summit; the holy edifice is, +upon ordinary occasions, approached by a circuitous winding road, but +at Easter and other great festivals, thousands of persons flock from +all parts, for the purpose of making a pilgrimage up the steepest +portion of the ascent, in order to fulfil vows previously made, and to +pay their homage to the holy mother of God. There was a waggery in our +friend's eye, as he described the sufferings of the devout upon these +occasions, which indicated an opinion that, however meritorious the +act, and however efficacious in shortening the path to heaven, he +himself entertained no desire to try it. This man had seen something +of the world, his maritime occupation having formerly led him to +distant places; he had been a sailor all his life, was well acquainted +with Marseilles, which he described with great enthusiasm, and gave us +to understand that, having had a good offer elsewhere, this would be +one of his last voyages in the _Etoile_, since he worked hard in it, +without getting any credit. + +At the town of Elboeuf, we picked up another passenger; a country +woman, with a basket or two, and a high Normandy cap, had come on +board at one of the villages; and with this small reinforcement we +proceeded, halting occasionally to mend some damage in the engine, and +putting up a sail whenever we could take advantage of the breeze. + +Arriving at La Roquelle, our _cicerone_ pointed out to us the ruined +walls of what once had been a very splendid chateau; its former owner +being an inveterate gamester, having lost large sums of money, at +length staked the chateau to an Englishman, who won it. Upon arriving +to take possession, he was disappointed to find that he had only +gained the chateau, and that the large estate attached to it was +not in the bond. Being unable to keep it up without the surrounding +property, he determined that no other person should enjoy it, +and therefore, greatly to the annoyance of the people in the +neighbourhood, he pulled it down. The present proprietor now lives in +an adjacent farm-house, and the story, whether true or false, +tells greatly to the prejudice of the English, and our friend, in +particular, spoke of it as a most barbarous act. + +We found the chateaux on the banks of the Seine very numerous; many +were of great magnitude, and flanked by magnificent woods, the greater +number being clipped into the appearance of walls, and cut out into +long avenues and arcades, intersecting each other at right angles, +in the very worst taste, according to the English idea of +landscape-gardening. There was something, however, extremely grand and +imposing in this formal style, and we were at least pleased with the +novelty which it afforded. + +At Andelys, perched upon a conical hill, are the picturesque remains +of the chateau Gaillard, which was built by Richard Coeur de Lion, and +must formerly have been of very great extent, its walls reaching down +to the river's brink. We were told that the chateau furnished stabling +for a thousand horses, and that there was a subterranean passage which +led to the great Andelys. This passage is now undergoing a partial +clearing, for the purpose of increasing the interest of the place, +by exhibiting it to strangers who may visit the neighbourhood. Our +informant proceeded to say, that during several years, an old witch +inhabited the ruins, who was at once the oracle and the terror of the +neighbourhood. + +The sketch-books of the party were here placed in requisition, and +though the celerity with which a steamer strides through the water +is not very favourable to the artist, a better idea of the scene was +given than that which we found in the Guide Book. The banks of the +Seine present a succession of pictures, all well worthy of the pencil, +and those who are fond of the picturesque, and who have time at their +disposal, will find the voyage up the river replete with the most +interesting materials. + +The first sight of the vineyards, which began to spread themselves up +the steep sides of the hills, delighted us all; and our prospects now +began to be diversified with rock, which in a thousand fantastic forms +showed itself along the heights. The country seemed thickly spread +with villages, many at the edge of the water, others receding into +winding valleys, and all boasting some peculiar beauty. Whether upon +a nearer approach they would have been equally pleasing, it is not +possible to say; but, from our position, we saw nothing to offend the +eye, either in the cottages or the people; some of the very +humblest of the dwellings boasted their little gardens, now gay with +sun-flowers and dahlias, while the better sort, with their bright +panes of glass, and clean muslin window-curtains, looked as if they +would afford very desirable homes. + +A present of a bottle of wine made our boatmen very happy. They +produced one of those huge masses of bread, which seems the principal +food of the lower classes, and sate down to their meal with great +content. Our dinner, which we had ordered rather early, was delayed by +the arrival of the boat at Vernon, where we were obliged, according to +the French phrase, to "mount the bridge." It was built, agreeably +to the old mode of construction, with a mill in the centre, and the +difficulty, and even danger, of getting through the arch, could not +be called inconsiderable. Letting off the steam, we were hauled up by +persons stationed for the purpose; and just as we got through, passed +the steamers going down to Rouen, the partners of the vessels which +went up in the morning; both were full, our _star_ being the only +unlucky one. However, what might have been a hardship to many others +was none to us, it being scarcely possible to imagine any thing more +delightful than a voyage which, though comparatively slow, was the +reverse of tedious, and in which we could discourse unrestrainedly, +and occupy any part of the vessel most agreeable to ourselves. We +picked up a very respectable man and his daughter, an interesting +little girl, who spoke English very tolerably, and seemed delighted to +meet with English ladies; and also an exquisite, dressed in the first +style of the Parisian mode, but of him we saw little, he being wholly +occupied with himself. + +The steam-company are entering into an arrangement at Vernon for +the construction of a lock similar to one already formed at +Pont-de-l'Arche, which we had passed through in the morning, and which +will obviate the inconvenience and difficulty of the present mode of +navigating the river. + +The next place of interest to which we came was Rosny, a village +famous in the pages of history as the residence of the great and good, +the friend and minister of Henry IV., the virtuous Sully. Our boatmen, +who were not great antiquaries, said nothing about the early occupants +of the chateau, exerting all their eloquence in praise of a later +resident--the Duchesse de Berri. This lady rendered herself extremely +popular in the vicinity, living in a style of princely splendour, and +devoting her time to acts of munificence. Every year she portioned +off a bride, giving a dowry to some respectable young lady of the +neighbourhood, while to the poor she was a liberal and untiring +benefactress. The boatmen blessed her as they passed, for to all she +sent wine, and upon fête-days gave banquets to the rural population, +to whom her remembrance will be ever dear. Our informants pointed out +a small chapel, which they described as being very beautiful, which +she had built as a depository for her husband's heart; this precious +relic she carried away with her when she left Rosny, which she quitted +with the regrets of every human being in the neighbourhood. + +The chateau has been purchased by an English banker, but is now +uninhabited: there was a report of its being about to be pulled down. +It is a large, heavy building, not distinguished by any architectural +beauty, yet having an imposing air, from its extent and solidity. +It is surrounded by fine woods and pleasure-grounds, laid out in +the formal style, which is still the characteristic of French +landscape-gardening. Nothing can be more beautiful than the +surrounding scenery, the winding river with its vineyards hanging +in terraces from the opposite heights, the village reposing beneath +sun-lit hills, while corn-fields, pasture-land, and cattle grazing, +convey the most pleasing ideas of the comfort of those who dwell upon +this luxuriant soil. + +The city of Mantes now appeared in the distance, and as we approached +it, our guides pointed out, on the opposite heights of Gassicourt, +a hermitage and Calvary, which had formerly proved a great source +of profit. An ascetic, of great pretensions to sanctity, took up his +abode many years ago in this retreat, carrying on a thriving trade, +every boat that passed contributing twopence, for which consideration +the hermit rung a bell, to announce their arrival at the bridge of +Mantes, giving notice to the town, in order to facilitate the transfer +of baggage or passengers. This tax or tribute the hermit was not +himself at the trouble of collecting, it being scrupulously despatched +to him by the donors, who would have deemed it sinful to deprive the +holy man of what they considered his just due. + +The sort of piety, which once supported so great a multitude of +religious mendicants, is greatly on the decline in France. A few +crosses on the bridges and heights, and the dresses of the priesthood +whom we encountered in the streets, were the only exterior signs of +Roman Catholicism which we had yet seen. Our boatmen spoke with great +respect of the Sisters of Charity, pointing out a convent which they +inhabited, and told us that during illness they had themselves been +greatly indebted to the care and attention of these benevolent women. + +It was now growing dark, and we very narrowly escaped a serious +accident in passing the bridge of Meulan, the boat coming into contact +with one of the piers; fortunately, the danger was espied in time. +There was now not the slightest chance of reaching Paris before the +following morning; but we regretted nothing except the want of light, +the gathering clouds rendering it impossible to see any thing of the +scenery, which, we were told, increased in beauty at every mile. We +consoled ourselves, however, with tea and whist in the cabin; in fact, +we played with great perseverance throughout the whole of our journey, +the spirits of the party never flagging for a single instant. + +We found a good hotel at the landing-place, at which we arrived at a +very late hour, and starting the next morning by the early train +to Paris, passed by the rail-road through an extremely interesting +country, leaving St. Germain-en-Laye behind, and tracking the windings +of the Seine, now too shallow to admit of the navigation of boats of +any burthen. + +The construction of this rail-road was attended with considerable +difficulty and great expense, on account of its being impeded by the +works at Marli, for the supply of water to Versailles. The building +of the bridges over the Seine, which it crosses three times, was also +very costly. The carriages of the first class are very inferior to +those of the same description upon the rail-roads in England, but they +are sufficiently comfortable for so short a distance. We were set down +at the barrier of Clichi, an inconvenient distance from the best part +of Paris. Here we had to undergo a second inspection of our baggage, +and I became somewhat alarmed for the fate of my medicine-chest. We +had taken nothing else with as that could be seizable, and this was +speedily perceived by the officials, who merely went through the form +of an examination. + +The divisions in one of my portmanteaus had excited some suspicion +at Havre, one of the men fancying that he had made a grand discovery, +when he pronounced it to have a false bottom. We explained the method +of opening it to his satisfaction, and afterwards, in overhauling +my bonnet-box, he expressed great regret at the derangement of the +millinery, which certainly sustained some damage from his rough +handling. Altogether, we had not to complain of any want of civility +on the part of the custom-house officers; but travellers who take the +overland route to India, through France, will do well to despatch all +their heavy baggage by sea, nothing being more inconvenient than a +multitude of boxes. I had reduced all my packages to four, namely, two +portmanteaus, a bonnet-box, and a leather bag, which latter contained +the medicine-chest, a kettle and lamp, lucifer-matches, &c; my +bonnet-box was divided into two compartments, one of which contained +my writing-case and a looking-glass; for as I merely intended to +travel through a portion of our British possessions in India, and +to return after the October monsoon of 1840, I wished to carry every +thing absolutely necessary for my comfort about with we. + +Another annoyance sustained by persons who take the route through +France is, the trouble respecting their passports, which must be ready +at all times when called upon for examination, and may be the cause of +detention, if the proper forms are not scrupulously gone through. We +were not certain whether it would be necessary to present ourselves +in person at the Bureau des Passeports, Quai des Orfèvres, in Paris, +after having sent them to the British embassy; but we thought it +better to avoid all danger of delay, and therefore drove to a quarter +interesting on account of its being a place of some importance as +the original portion of Paris, and situated on the island. In this +neighbourhood there are also the famous Hotel Dieu and Notre Dame, +to both of which places we paid a visit, looking _en passant_ at the +Morgue. The gentleman who accompanied us entered a building, with +whose melancholy celebrity all are acquainted; but though it did not +at that precise moment contain a corpse, the report did not induce us +to follow his example: a circumstance which we afterwards regretted. +It may be necessary to say, that at other places we sent our passports +to the Hotel de Ville; but at Paris there is a different arrangement. + +Although the journey up the Seine from Havre proved very delightful to +me, I do not recommend it to others, especially those to whom time is +of importance. There is always danger of detention, and the length of +the sea-voyage, especially from London, may be productive of serious +inconvenience. For seeing the country, it is certainly preferable to +the diligence, and my experience will teach those who come after me to +inquire into the character of the steam-boat before they enter it. + + + + +CHAPTER II. + + * * * * * + +PARIS TO MARSEILLES. + + * * * * * + + Description of Paris--Departure by the Diligence--The Country--The + Vineyards--Hotels and fare--Arrival at Lyons--Description of + the City--Departure in the Steam-boat for Arles--Descent of the + Rhône--Beauty and Variety of the Scenery--Confusion on disembarking at + Beaucaire--A Passenger Drowned--Arrival at Arles--Description of the + Town--Embarkation in the Steamer for Marseilles--Entrance into the + Mediterranean--Picturesque approach to Marseilles--Arrival in the + Harbour--Description of Marseilles--Observations upon the Journey + through France by Ladies. + + +A week's residence in Paris does not give a stranger any title to +decide upon the merits or demerits of that far-famed city. The period +of the year (September) was not the most favourable for a visit, all +the best families having emigrated to their country habitations, and +the city consequently exhibited a deserted air, at variance with every +preconceived notion of the gaiety of the French capital. The mixture +of meanness and magnificence in the buildings, the dirt and bad +smells, combine to give an unfavourable impression, which time only, +and a better acquaintance with the more agreeable features of the +place, can remove. + +We had entertained a hope, upon our arrival in Paris, of getting the +_malle poste_ for our journey to Châlons; but it was engaged for at +least a month in advance. We were not more fortunate, our party now +being reduced to three, in our endeavour to secure the _coupé_, and +were obliged to be contented with places (corners) in the interior. +We despatched all our heavy goods--that is, the portmanteaus--by +_messagerie_, to Marseilles, which was a great saving of trouble. +Though the expense of this conveyance is enormous, it has the great +advantage of speed, travelling nearly as quickly as the diligence, +while by the _roulage_, which is cheaper, very inconvenient delays may +be incurred. + +We quitted Paris on the 13th of September, well pleased with the +treatment we had received. Though the charges for lodging, washing, +&c. were high, there was no attempt at imposition; our landlady +would not allow us to pay any thing for the eighth day of our abode, +although we thereby entered into another week. We had the pleasure +of leaving every body well satisfied with us, and willing to receive +another English party. + +The diligence started at the appointed hour, namely, six o'clock in +the evening. Unaccustomed to travel all night, we were rather anxious +about breakfast, as we had merely stopped to change horses, without +resting for any refreshment since we quitted Paris. Upon our arrival +at Sens, at about seven o'clock in the morning, we were amused by the +appearance of a party of persons running, gesticulating, and talking +with all their might, who brought hot coffee, milk, bread, and fruit +to the carriage-door. At first we were disinclined to avail ourselves +of the breakfast thus offered, but learning that we should not get any +thing else before twelve o'clock in the day, we overcame our scruples, +and partook of the despised fare, which we found very good of its +kind. + +The country we passed through was rich with vineyards, and, on account +of the undulating nature of the land, and the frequency of towns +and villages, exceedingly pleasing to the eye. We were continually +delighted with some splendid burst of scenery. There was no want +of foliage, the absence of the magnificent timber which we find in +England being the less remarkable, in consequence of the number of +trees which, if not of very luxuriant growth, greatly embellish the +landscape, while we saw the vine everywhere, the rich clusters of its +grapes reaching to the edge of the road. Though robbed of its +grace, and its lavish display of leaf and tendril, by the method +of cultivating, each plant being reduced to the size of a small +currant-bush, the foliage, clothing every hill with green, gave the +country an aspect most grateful to those who are accustomed to English +verdure. + +We made our first halt at Auxerre, when a _déjeûner à la fourchette_ +was served up to the travellers in the diligence. A bad English +dinner is a very bad thing, but a bad French one is infinitely worse. +Hitherto, we had fed upon nothing but the most dainty fare of the best +hotels and _cafés_, and I, at least, who wished to see as much as I +could of France, was not displeased at the necessity of satisfying the +cravings of appetite with bread and melon. There were numerous dishes, +all very untempting, swimming in grease, and brought in a slovenly +manner to the table; a roast fowl formed no exception, for it was +sodden, half-raw, and saturated with oil. It was only at the very +best hotels in France that we ever found fowls tolerably well roasted; +generally speaking, they are never more than half-cooked, and are +as unsightly as they are unsavoury. Our fellow-passengers did ample +justice to the meal, from which we gladly escaped, in order to devote +the brief remainder of our time to a hasty toilet. + +From what we could see of it, Auxerre appeared to be a very pretty +place, it being at this time perfectly enwreathed with vines. In +fact, every step of our journey increased our regret that we should be +obliged to hurry through a country which it would have delighted us +to view at leisure, each town that we passed through offering some +inducement to linger on the road. Active preparations were making +for the vintage, the carts which we met or overtook being laden with +wine-casks, and much did we desire to witness a process associated in +our minds with the gayest scenes of rural festivity. + +It would not be a fair criterion to judge of the accommodation +afforded at the hotels of the French provinces by those at which the +diligence changed horses; in some I observed that we were not shown +into the best apartments reserved for public entertainment, but in +none did we find any difficulty in procuring water to wash with, +nor did we ever see a dish substituted for a basin. From our own +observation, it seems evident that the inns in the provinces have been +much improved since the peace with England, and it appeared to us, +that no reasonable objection could be made to the accommodation +supplied. Auxerre certainly furnished the worst specimen we met with +on the road; at no other place had we any right to complain of our +entertainment, and at some the fare might be called sumptuous. + +On the third morning from our departure from Paris, when nearly +exhausted, the rising sun gave us a view of the environs of Lyons. +We had been afraid to stop at Châlons the day before, having been +informed that the Saône was not sufficiently full to ensure the +certainty of the steam-boat's arrival at the promised time at Lyons. +This was a great disappointment, but we were rewarded by the rich and +beautiful scenery which characterises the route by land. We could not +help fancying that we could distinguish the home of Claude Melnotte +amid those villages that dotted the splendid panorama; and the +pleasure, with which I, at least, contemplated the fine old city, was +not a little enhanced by its association with the Lady of Lyons and +her peasant lover. + +Lyons more than realised all the notions which I had formed concerning +it, having an air of antique grandeur which I had vainly expected +to find at Rouen. It is well-built throughout, without that striking +contrast between the newer buildings and the more ancient edifices, +which is so remarkable in the capital of Normandy. The Hotel de Ville, +in the large square, is a particularly fine building, and the whole +city looks as if it had been for centuries the seat of wealth and +commerce. + +Friends in England, and the few we met with or made in Paris, had +furnished us with the names of the hotels it would be most advisable +to put up at; but these lists were, as a matter of course, lost, and +we usually made for the nearest to the place where we stopped. The +Hotel de Paris, which looks upon the Hotel de Ville, was the one we +selected at Lyons; it was large and commodious, but had a dull and +melancholy air. As it is usual in French hotels, the building enclosed +a court-yard in the centre, with galleries running round the three +sides, and reaching to the upper stories. The furniture, handsome of +its kind, was somewhat faded, adding to the gloom which is so often +the characteristic of a provincial inn. + +As soon as possible, we sallied forth, according to our usual wont, to +see as much as we could of the town and its environs; both invited a +longer stay, but we were anxious to be at Marseilles by the 19th, and +therefore agreed to rise at half-past three on the following morning, +in order to be ready for the steamer, which started an hour after. We +had begun, indeed, to fancy sleep a superfluous indulgence; my female +friend (Miss E.), as well as myself, suffering no other inconvenience +from three nights spent in a diligence than that occasioned by swelled +feet and ancles. + +We found a very considerable number of persons in the steam-boat, many +of whom were English, and amongst them a gentleman and his wife, who, +with four children, were travelling to Nice, where they proposed to +spend the winter. The fine weather of the preceding day had deserted +us, and it rained in torrents during the first hours of the descent +of the Rhône. The wet and cold became so difficult to bear, that I +was glad to take up a position under the funnel of the steamer, +where, protected a little from the rain, I speedily got dry and warm, +enjoying the scenery in despite of the very unfavourable state of the +weather. We missed our communicative boatman of the Seine, but +met with a very intelligent German, who gave us an account of the +remarkable places _en route_, pointing out a spot once exceedingly +dangerous to boats ascending or descending, in consequence of a +projecting rock, which, by the orders of the Emperor Napoleon, had +been blown up. + +All the steamers which leave Lyons profess to go as far as Arles; but, +in order to ensure conveyance to that place the same evening, it is +necessary to ascertain whether they carry freight to Beaucaire, for in +that case they always stay the night to unlade, taking the boat on +at an early hour the following morning. We found ourselves in this +predicament; and perhaps, under all the circumstances to be related, +it would be advisable to leave the Lyons boat at Avignon and proceed +by land to Marseilles. Many of the passengers pursued this plan. + +The weather cleared up in the middle of the day, and we passed Avignon +in a rich crimson sunset, which threw its roseate flush upon the ruins +of the Papal palace, and the walls and bastions of this far-famed +city. Experience had shown us the impossibility of taking more than a +cursory view of any place in which we could only sojourn for a single +day, and therefore we satisfied ourselves with the glimpses which we +caught of Avignon from the river. A half-finished bridge, apparently +of ancient date, projects rudely into the middle of the stream; we +passed through another more modern, though somewhat difficult to +shoot; our voyage the whole day having been made under a succession of +bridges, many upon the suspension principle, and extremely light and +elegant. The beauty and variety of the scenery which presented itself, +as we shot along the banks of the Rhône, were quite sufficient to +engage our attention, and to make the hours fly swiftly along; there +were few, however, of our fellow-travellers who did not resort to +other methods of amusement. + +After the weather had cleared, the decks dried, and the sun-beams, +warming, without scorching, glanced through fleecy clouds, the greater +number of the passengers remained in the cabin below, whence, the +windows being small and high, there was literally nothing to be seen. +They employed themselves in reading, writing, or working; the French +ladies in particular being most industrious in plying the needle. We +noticed one family especially, who scarcely shewed themselves +upon deck. It consisted of the mother, an elderly lady, of a very +prepossessing appearance, with her son and daughter; the former about +thirty years old, the latter considerably younger. The dress of +the ladies, which was perfectly neat, consisting of printed muslin +dresses, black silk shawls, and drawn bonnets, seemed so completely +English, that we could scarcely believe that they were not our own +countrywomen; they were the most diligent of the workers and +readers, and as we never went down into the cabin unless to take some +refreshment, or to fetch any thing we wanted, a few brief civilities +only passed between us, but these were so cordially offered, that we +regretted that want of inclination to enjoy the air and prospect upon +deck which detained the party below. + +There was a _restaurateur_ on board the steamer, who supplied the +passengers, at any hour they pleased, with the articles inserted +in his _carte_; every thing was very good of its kind, but the boat +itself was neither handsomely nor conveniently fitted up, and I should +recommend in preference the new iron steamers which have been lately +introduced upon the Rhône. + +It was about nine o'clock in the evening when we reached Beaucaire; +one other boat stopped at this place, but the rest, to our +mortification, went on to Arles. We were told that we must be at +the river-side at four the next morning, in order to proceed, and we +therefore could not reckon upon more than four or five hours' sleep. +The night was very dark, and a scene of great confusion took place in +the disembarkation. We had agreed to wait quietly until the remainder +of the passengers got on shore; and Miss E. and myself, glad to escape +from the bustle and confusion of the deck, went down below to collect +our baggage, &c. The quay was crowded with porters, all vociferating +and struggling to get hold of parcels to carry, while the +commissionaires from the hotels were more than ever eager in +their recommendations of their respective houses: their noise and +gesticulations were so great, and their requests urged with so much +boldness, that we might have been led to suppose we had fallen into +the hands of banditti, who would plunder us the moment they got us +into their clutches. + +Miss E. had posted herself at an open window, watching this strange +scene, and while thus employed, was startled by hearing a piercing +scream, and a plunge into the water; at the same moment, the clamour +on shore became excessive. We instantly rushed upon deck, where we +found our other friend safe; and upon inquiring what had happened, +were told that a box had fallen into the river. Not quite satisfied +of the truth of this statement, we asked several other persons, and +received the same answer, the master of the steamer assuring us that +no more serious accident had occurred. + +We soon afterwards went on shore, which was then perfectly quiet, and, +preceded by a commissionaire, who had persuaded the gentleman of our +party to put himself under his convoy, we walked into the town. At +a short distance from the water, we came upon an hotel of very +prepossessing appearance, which we concluded to be the one to which we +were bound. The windows of the lower and upper floors were all open, +the rooms lighted, showing clean, gay-looking paper upon the walls, +and furniture of a tempting appearance. Our conductor, however, passed +the door, and dived down a lane, upon which we halted, and declared +our resolution to go no further. After a little parley, and amongst +other representations of the superior accommodations of the unknown +hotel, an assurance that the stables were magnificent, we gained our +point, and entered the house which had pleased us so much. We were +met at the door by two well-dressed, good-looking women, who showed us +into some excellent apartments up-stairs, all apparently newly-fitted +up, and exceedingly well-furnished. + +Ordering supper, we descended to the public room, and as we passed +to a table at the farther end, noticed a young man sitting rather +disconsolately at a window. We were laughing and talking with each +other, when, suddenly starting up, the stranger youth exclaimed, "You +are English? how glad I am to hear my own language spoken again!" He +told us that he was travelling through France to Malta, and had +come by the other steam-boat, in which there were no other English +passengers beside himself. He then inquired whether a lady had not +been drowned who came by our vessel; we answered no; but upon his +assurance that such was the fact, we began to entertain a suspicion +that the truth had been concealed from us. It was not, however, until +the next morning, that we could learn the particulars. The gentleman +who had accompanied us, and who had likewise been deceived by the +statements made to him, ascertained that the accident had befallen +the elderly French lady, with whose appearance we had been so much +pleased. She had got on board a boat moored close to ours, and +believing that she had only to step on shore, actually walked into +the river. She was only ten minutes under water, and the probabilities +are, that if the circumstance had been made known, and prompt +assistance afforded, she might have been resuscitated. Amid the number +of English passengers on board the steamer, the chances were very much +in favour of its carrying a surgeon, accustomed to the best methods +to be employed in such cases. No inquiry of the kind was made, and we +understood that the body had been conveyed to a church, there to await +the arrival of a medical man from the town. + +We were, of course, inexpressibly shocked by this fatal catastrophe, +the more so because we all felt that we might have been of use had +we been told the truth. The grief and distraction of the son and +daughter, who had thus lost a parent, very possibly prevented them +from taking the best measures in a case of such emergence; whereas +strangers, anxious to be of service, and having all their presence of +mind at command, might have afforded very important assistance. How +little had we thought, during the day spent so pleasantly upon the +Rhône, that a fiat had passed which doomed one of the party to an +untimely and violent death! Our spirits, which had been of the gayest +nature, were damped by this incident, which recurred to our minds +again and again, and we were continually recollecting some trifling +circumstance which had prepossessed us in favour of the family, thus +suddenly overwhelmed by so distressing an event. + +A couple of hours brought us to Arles, where we arrived before the +town was astir; the steamer to Marseilles did not leave the quay until +twelve o'clock, and we were tantalized by the idea of the excellent +night's rest we might have had if the steamer had fulfilled its +agreement to go on to Arles. The Marseilles boat, though a fine vessel +of its class, was better calculated for the conveyance of merchandize +than of passengers; there being only one cabin, and no possibility of +procuring any refreshment on board. This is the more inconvenient, +as there is danger in bad weather of the passage into the harbour of +Marseilles being retarded for several hours. We now lamented having +slighted an invitation to comfortable quarters in Avignon, which we +found on board the Lyons steamer, printed upon a large card. + +We were much pleased with what we saw of Arles; it is a clean, +well-built town, the streets generally rather narrow, but the houses +good. In walking about, we found many of the outer doors open, and +neat-looking female servants employed in sweeping the halls and +entries. With what I hope may be deemed a pardonable curiosity, we +peeped and sometimes stepped into these interiors, and were gratified +by the neatness and even elegance which they exhibited. We found the +people remarkably civil, and apparently too much accustomed to English +travellers to trouble themselves about us. The hotel was not of the +best class, and we only saw some very inferior _cafés_, consisting +of one small room, with a curtain before the open door, and on the +outside a rude representation, on a board, of a coffee-pot, and a +cup and saucer. All the shops at Arles had curtains at the doors, +a peculiarity which we had not previously observed in the towns of +France. We went into a handsome church, where we found a few people, +principally beggars, at prayers, and leaving a small donation in the +poor-box, beguiled the time by walking and sitting in the _boulevard_ +of the town. + +We were glad to embark at twelve o'clock, and soon afterwards we were +again in motion. The Rhône is at this place a fine broad stream; but +its banks were less interesting than those which we had passed the +previous day. We came at length to a large tract of low land, washed +on the other side by the Mediterranean, which we were told was +tenanted by troops of wild horses, known by their being invariably +white. There were certainly many horses to be seen, and amongst them +numerous white ones; but they appeared to be exceedingly tame, and had +probably only been turned out for the benefit of grazing on the salt +marsh. Possibly there might be some difficulty in catching them in so +large a plain, perfectly unenclosed, and they might have bred in these +solitudes. There were also some very peaceable-looking donkeys to +be seen, and now and then a few cows. We did not perceive any human +habitations until we came to the extreme point, where one or two low, +dreary-looking tenements had been raised. + +The view for the last hour had been magnificent, extending over a +splendid country to the lower Alps, and now Marseilles appeared in the +distance, spread upon the side of a hill down to the water, and +its environs stretching far and wide, villas and country mansions +appearing in every direction. Upon entering the Mediterranean, we were +struck by the line of demarcation which kept the green waters of the +Rhône and the deep dark blue of the sea perfectly distinct from each +other, there being no blending of tints. Here we were delighted by the +appearance of a shoal of large fish, which were seen springing out of +the water; several approached the steamer, gamboling about in the most +beautiful manner possible, darting along close to the surface, and +then making long leaps with their bodies in the air. One of our +fellow-passengers, a German, with whom we had made acquaintance, +hastened to fetch a gun; but, much to our joy, it missed fire in +several attempts to discharge it at the beautiful creatures which had +thus amused us with their sports. How strong must be the destructive +propensity, when it leads men to wanton acts of barbarity like this; +since, had a hundred fish been killed, there would have been no +possibility of getting one on board, and the slaughter must merely +have been perpetrated for slaughter's sake! Our remonstrances passed +unheeded, and we therefore did not conceal our rejoicing over the +disappointment. + +The entrance into Marseilles is very picturesque, it being guarded on +either side by high rocks, bold, and projecting in various shapes. We +found the harbour crowded with vessels of various denominations, and +amongst them several steamers, one a French ship of war, and another +the English Government steamer, appointed to carry the mails to Malta. +The smell arising from the stagnant water in the harbour of Marseilles +was at first almost intolerable, and it was not without surprise that +we saw several gay gondola-looking boats, with white and coloured +awnings, filled with ladies and gentlemen, rowing about apparently for +pleasure. + +The clock struck five as we got on shore, and, much to our annoyance, +we found that our first visit was to be paid to the customhouse. Upon +embarking at Arles, a _gens-d'armes_ had laid his finger upon our +baggage, and demanded our keys; but upon a remonstrance at the +absurdity of a re-examination, after it had passed through the whole +of France, he allowed it to be put on board inviolate. Here, however, +there was no escaping, and, tired as we were, and anxious to get to +our hotel, we were obliged to submit to the delay. Fortunately, we +were the first arrivals, and the search not being very strict, we were +not detained more than ten minutes, or a quarter of an hour, which, +under the circumstances, seemed an age. The nearest hotel was of course +our place of refuge, and we were fortunate in speedily ending a very +good one, the Hotel des Embassadeurs, an immense establishment, +exceedingly well-conducted in every respect. Here we enjoyed the prospect +of a night's rest, having, during a hundred and ten hours, only had about +ten, at two different periods, in bed. Refreshed, however, by a change +of dress, we had no inclination to anticipate the period of repose, but +hurried our toilet, in order to join the dinner at the _table-d'hôte._ + +Marseilles struck us as being the handsomest and the cleanest town we +had yet seen in France. All the houses are spacious and lofty, built +of white stone, and in good condition, while every portion of the city +is well paved, either after the English fashion, or with brick, quite +even, and inserted in a very tasteful manner. Many of the streets +are extremely wide, and some are adorned with handsome fountains. +The shops are very elegant, and much more decorated than those of any +other place in France; some had paintings upon glass, richly gilded, +on either side of the doors, handsome curtains hung down within, and +the merchandise displayed was of the best description. These shops +were also well lighted, and together with the brilliant illuminations +of the neighbouring _cafés_, gave the streets a very gay appearance. +We wandered about until rather a late hour; the _cafés_, both inside +and outside, were crowded with gentlemen; but in the promenades we +saw fewer ladies than we had expected, and came to the conclusion--an +erroneous one in all probability--that French women stay very much at +home. Assuredly, the beauty of the night was most inviting; but, worn +out at last, we were obliged to retire to our hotel. + +The next day, we made inquiries concerning the steamers, and +learned that the French boat was certainly to start on the following +afternoon, the 21st, while the departure of the English vessel +was uncertain, depending upon the arrival of the mails. Though +disappointed at finding that the French steamer did not touch at +Naples, as I had been led to believe, I felt inclined to take my +passage in her; but the advantage of being in time to meet the Bombay +steamer at Suez was so strongly urged upon me, in consequence of the +ticklish state of affairs in Egypt, that, finding plenty of room on +board the _Niagara_, we engaged a couple of berths in the ladies' +cabins. Mehemet Ali was represented to us as being so obstinately +determined to retain possession of the Turkish fleet, and the British +Government so urgent with France to support the Porte against him, +that, if this intelligence was to be depended upon, no time ought to +be lost. It was with reluctance that I gave up my original intention +of lingering on the road, and at Malta, but my unwillingness to run +any risk of being shut out of Egypt prevailed. After executing this +necessary business, we engaged a carriage, and paying a visit to the +British consul, drove about the town and its environs, being the more +pleased the more we saw of both. There appeared to be a deficiency of +trees in the landscape, but a peculiar air of its own compensated for +the want of foliage. + +The private streets and houses of Marseilles are very regular and +well built, nor did we see any portion of the town of a very inferior +description. I should have liked much to have remained a few weeks in +it, and indeed regretted the rapidity of my journey through France, +not being able to imagine any thing more delightful than a leisure +survey of the country through which we passed. I had been so strongly +determined to make the overland trip to India, that I would have +undertaken it quite alone, had I not met with a party to accompany me; +some kind friends would not allow me, however, to make the experiment; +nor do I recommend ladies, unless they are very well acquainted +with the country, to travel through it without the protection of a +gentleman, a courier, or a good servant. Miss E. and myself performed +the whole distance without a care or a thought beyond the objects on +the road; but this we owed entirely to the attention of the gentleman +who put us safely on board the Malta steamer, and who managed every +thing for us upon the way, so that we were never in one single +instance subjected to the slightest annoyance. + + + + +CHAPTER III. + + * * * * * + +MARSEILLES TO ALEXANDRIA. + + * * * * * + + Venations at the Custom-house--Embarkation on the Malta + Steamer--Difficulties of exit from the Harbour--Storm--Disagreeable + Motion of the Steam-vessel--Passengers--Arrival at Malta--Description + of the City--Vehicles--Dress of the Maltese Women--State of + Society--Church of St. John--The Palace--The Cemetery of the Capuchin + Convent--Intolerance of the Roman Catholic Priesthood--Shops, + Cafés, and Hotels--Manufactures and Products of Malta--Heat of + the Island--Embarkation on board an English Government + Steamer--Passengers--A young Egyptian--Arrival at Alexandria--Turkish + and Egyptian Fleets--Aspect of the City from the Sea--Landing. + + +At twelve o'clock on the morning of the 21st of September, we were +informed that the English Government-mails had not arrived, and that +the probabilities were in favour of their not reaching Marseilles +until five o'clock; in which event, the steamer could not leave the +harbour that night. We, therefore, anticipated another day in our +pleasant quarters; but thought it prudent to take our baggage +on board. Upon getting down to the quay, we were stopped by a +_gens-d'armes,_ who desired to have our keys, which we of course +immediately surrendered. On the previous day, while driving about +the town, our progress had been suddenly arrested by one of these +officials, with an inquiry whether we had any thing to declare. He was +satisfied with our reply in the negative, and allowed us to proceed. A +gentleman afterwards asked me whether, in my travels through France, +I had not observed that the police was a mere political agent, +established for the purpose of strengthening the hands of the +government, and not, as in England, intended for the protection of the +people? I could only reply, that we had lost nothing in France, and +that property there appeared to be as secure as at home. Certainly, +the interference of the _gens-d'armes_ about the baggage, and the +continual demand for our passports, were very vexatious, detracting in +a great degree from the pleasure of the journey. + +We found the rate of porterage excessively high; the conveyance of our +baggage to and fro, as we passed from steam-boats to hotels, proving, +in the aggregate, enormous; the whole went upon a truck, which one +man drew, with apparent ease, and for a very short distance, we paid +nearly double the sum demanded for the hire of a horse and cart in +London, from Baker Street, Portman Square, to the Custom House. + +Upon getting on board the _Megara_, we found that the mails were in +the act of delivery, and that the vessel would start without delay. +We had now to take leave of the friend who had seen us so far upon our +journey, and to rely wholly upon ourselves, or the chance civilities +we might meet with on the road. Our spirits, which had been so gay, +were much damped by the loss of a companion so cheerful and ready +to afford us every enjoyment within our reach, and we in consequence +thought less of the danger to which we were shortly afterwards +exposed, the pain of parting being the paramount feeling. + +There is always some difficulty in getting out of the harbour of +Marseilles, and the natural obstacles are heightened by the want of +a superintending power. There is no harbour-master, to regulate +the movements of vessels, and to appoint their respective places; +consequently, there is generally a great deal of confusion; while +serious accidents are not unfrequent. + +Before we got under weigh, I saw my old acquaintance, Hussein Khan, +the Persian ambassador, go on board the French steamer, which was +anchored within a short distance of us. He was received with all the +honours due to his rank; which, by the way, was not acknowledged in +England; and his suite, whom we had seen lounging at the doors of the +_cafés_ the evening before, made a gay appearance on the deck. + +We got foul of one or two ships as we went out, and just as we left +the harbour, the clouds, which had threatened all the morning, burst +upon us in a tremendous storm, accompanied by thunder and lightning. +The rain came down in torrents, sweeping along the decks, while a +heavy squall threatened to drive us upon the rocks, which we had +admired so much as the guardians of the port. In this emergency, we +were compelled to drop our anchor, and remain quiescent until the fury +of the elements had abated. The storm passed away about midnight, and +getting the steam up, we were far away from Marseilles and _la belle +France_ before morning. + +The _Megara_ belonged to a class of steamers built for the government +upon some new-fangled principle, and which have the art of rolling in +any sea. Though the waters of the Mediterranean were scarcely ruffled +by the breeze, which was in our favour, there was so much motion in +the vessel, that it was impossible to employ ourselves in any way +except in reading. In other respects, the _Megara_ was commodious +enough; the stern cabin, with smaller ones opening into it, and each +containing two bed-places, was appropriated to the ladies, the whole +being neatly fitted up. We found some agreeable fellow-passengers; the +only drawback being a family of three children. In consequence of the +cabins being thus occupied, we could not preserve the neatness +and order which are so essential to comfort, and which need not be +dispensed with even in a short voyage. + +Our commandant, Mr. Goldsmith, a descendant of the brother of the +poet, and who appeared to have inherited the benevolence of his +distinguished relative, was indefatigable in his exertions to render +us happy. He had procured abundant supplies for the table, which was +every day spread with a profusion of good things, while eight or ten +different kinds of wine, in addition to ale and porter, were placed +at the disposal of the guests. Nothing, indeed, was wanting, except a +French cook. No single meal had ever disagreed with us in France; but +though partaking sparingly, we felt the inconvenience of the heavy +English mode of cookery. + +Amongst the attendants at table was one who speedily grew into the +good graces of all the passengers. A little fellow, eight years +old, but who did not look more than seven, placed himself at the +commandant's elbow, who immediately upon seeing him exclaimed, with a +benevolent smile, "What, are you here, Jemmy? then we are all right." +Jemmy, it seems, was the boatswain's son, and no diminutive page +belonging to a spoiled lady of quality, or Lilliputian tiger in the +service of a fashionable aspirant, could have been dressed in more +accurate costume. Jemmy was every inch a sailor; but, while preserving +the true nautical cut, his garments were fashioned with somewhat +coxcombical nicety, and he could have made his appearance upon any +stage as a specimen of aquatic dandyism. Jemmy would be invaluable on +board a yacht. His services at table were rewarded by a plateful of +pudding, which he ate standing at the captain's right hand, after +having, with great propriety, said grace. The little fellow had been +afloat for a year and a half; but during this period his education +had not been neglected, and he could read as well as any person in the +ship. + +Amongst our passengers was a French gentleman, the commandant and +owner of an Indiaman, which had sailed from Bordeaux to Bombay under +the charge of the first officer. He had previously made twelve voyages +to India; but now availed himself of the shorter route, and proposed +to join his vessel at Bombay, dispose of the cargo, and, after taking +in a new freight, return through Egypt. The only coasts in sight, +during our voyage from Marseilles to Malta, were those of Sardinia +and Africa, Sicily being too far off to be visible. We were not near +enough to Sardinia to see more than a long succession of irregular +hills, which looked very beautiful under the lights and shades of a +lovely summer sky. The weather was warm, without being sultry, and +nothing was wanting excepting a few books. Mr. Goldsmith regretted the +absence of a library on board, but expressed his intention of making a +collection as speedily as possible. + +The excessive and continual motion of the vessel caused me to suffer +very severely from seasickness; the exertion of dressing in the +morning always brought on a paroxysm, but I determined to struggle +against it as much as possible, and was only one day so completely +overpowered as to be unable to rise from the sofa. This sickness +was the more provoking, since there was no swell to occasion it, the +inconvenience entirely arising from Sir Somebody Symonds' (I believe +that is the name) method of building. What the _Megara_ would be in a +heavy sea, there is no saying, and I should be very sorry to make the +experiment. + +We found ourselves at Malta at an early hour of the morning of +the 25th, having been only five nights and four days on board. Mr. +Goldsmith celebrated our last dinner with a profusion of champaigne, +and though glad to get out of the vessel, we felt unfeignedly sorry to +take leave of our kind commandant. We were, of course, up by daylight, +in order to lose nothing of the view. + +Much as I had heard of the gay singularity of the appearance of Malta, +I felt surprise as well as delight at the beautiful scene around; +nor was I at all prepared for the extent of the city of Valetta. The +excessive whiteness of the houses, built of the rock of which +the island is composed, contrasted with the vivid green of their +verandahs, gives to the whole landscape the air of a painting, in +which the artist has employed the most brilliant colours for sea +and sky, and habitations of a sort of fairy land. Nor does a nearer +approach destroy this illusion; there are no prominently squalid +features in Malta, the beggars, who crowd round every stranger, being +the only evidence, at a cursory gaze, of its poverty. + +Soon after the _Megara_ had dropped anchor, a young officer from the +_Acheron_, the steamer that had brought the mails from Gibraltar, came +on board to inquire whether I was amongst the passengers, and gave me +the pleasing intelligence that a lady, a friend of mine, who had left +London a few days before me, was now in Malta, and would proceed to +India in the vessel appointed to take the mails. She was staying at +Durnsford's Hotel, a place to which I had been strongly recommended. +Mr. Goldsmith was kind enough to promise to see our heavy baggage on +board the _Volcano_, the vessel under sailing orders; and a clergyman +and his wife, resident in Malta, who had gone to Marseilles for a +change of scene and air, inviting Miss E. and myself to accompany them +on shore, we gladly accepted their offer. + +We found a _caless_ in waiting for us; a very singular description of +vehicle, but one common to the island. I had seen representations of +these carriages in old engravings, but had not the least idea that +they were still in use. They have only two wheels, placed behind, so +that the horse has to bear the weight of the vehicle as well as to +draw it; and there is something so inexpressibly odd in the whole +arrangement, that it put me in mind of the equipages brought on the +stage in a Christmas pantomime. Our _caless_ held four persons very +conveniently, and was really a handsome vehicle, gaily lined with +scarlet leather, and having spring seats. We saw others plying for +hire, of a very inferior description; some only calculated for two +persons, and of a faded and dilapidated appearance. They seem to be +dangerous conveyances, especially for the poor horse; we heard of one +being upset, on a steep hill, and breaking the neck of the animal that +drew it. In driving, we were obliged to take rather a circuitous route +to our inn, though the distance, had we walked, would have been very +inconsiderable. We were glad of the opportunity of seeing a little +of the suburbs, and were almost sorry to arrive at the place of our +destination. + +As we came along we were delighted with the picturesque appearance +of the Maltese women, whose national dress is at once nunlike and +coquettish. A black petticoat envelopes the form from the waist, and +over that is thrown a singular veil, gathered into a hood, and kept +out with a piece of whalebone. This covering, which is called the +_faldetta_, is capable of many arrangements, and is generally disposed +so as to "keep one eye free to do its worst of witchery." When one +of the poorer classes is enabled to clothe herself in a veil and +petticoat of silk, she considers that she has gained the _acmé_ of +respectability. The streets of the city of Valetta are extremely +narrow, and the houses high; a great advantage in such a climate, as +it ensures shade, while, as they generally run at right angles, they +obtain all the breeze that is to be had. + +The appearance of our hotel was prepossessing. We entered through a +wide gateway into a hall opening upon a small court, in the centre of +which stood a large vase, very well sculptured, from the stone of the +island, and filled with flowers. A wide handsome staircase, also of +stone, with richly-carved balustrades, and adorned with statues and +vases, conducted us to a gallery, two sides of which were open, and +the other two closed, running round the court-yard, and affording +entrance to very good apartments. Every thing was perfectly clean; +the bedsteads of iron, furnished with mosquito-curtains; and we were +supplied immediately with every article that we required. + +As the rolling of the _Megara_ had prevented the possibility +of forming a sentence, we sat down to write letters, and having +despatched a few of the introductions to residents, with which my +friends in England had supplied me, I was agreeably surprised by some +visits which I had scarcely expected, as we found that we should be +obliged to embark for Alexandria in the evening. + +I did not hear very flattering accounts of the state of society at +Malta, which, like that of all other confined places, is split into +factions, and where there seems to be a perpetual struggle, by the +least fortunate classes, to assert equality with those whose rank is +acknowledged; thus every person attached to the government assumes +eligibility for the _entré_ into the best circles, while the +magnates of the place are by no means inclined to admit them to these +privileges. It appeared that the endeavours of the Commissioner to +produce a greater degree of cordiality between the Maltese inhabitants +and the English residents, so far from succeeding, had tended to +widen the distance between them, and that the Maltese were by no means +grateful for the efforts made for their improvement. However, though +the fruits may not at present appear, the seed having been sown, we +may entertain a strong hope that they will show themselves in time. + +While an undertaking so gigantic as the diffusion of the English +language throughout India has been attempted, it seems rather +extraordinary that the efforts of the committee should not have +been directed to the same result in Malta, and that the progress of +education should not have been conducted in the language that promised +to prove the most useful to subjects of the British crown; but it +appears that the committee decided otherwise, and complaints are +making, that the instruction now supplied at the schools is of the +most superficial nature, and by no means calculated to produce the +desired end. + +Every object in Malta bears witness to the ingenuity and industry of +its inhabitants. The softness of the stone renders it easily cut, and +the Dowager Marchioness of Hastings (who has left imperishable marks +of her desire to benefit those who came under her observation), in +supplying the best designs, has filled the shops of Malta with a +tasteful species of _bijouterie_, which is eagerly sought after by +all the visitors. The carved work of Malta is sold very cheap; but the +same quality, which renders it so easily cut, occasions it to chip, +and, therefore, great care is necessary in packing these fragile +articles. + +As soon as possible, we sallied forth to inspect the far-famed church +of St. John, and found our expectations more than gratified by the +interior of this gorgeous edifice. It was not, however, without +melancholy feelings, that we reflected on the miserable remnant of +those valiant knights, who had made Malta celebrated throughout all +history, and who, on the suppression of the order, were suffered to +languish out the remainder of their existence in obscurity. Mass was +performing at the time of our entrance, and seating ourselves in one +of the side chapels until it should be over, we were at its conclusion +accosted by a priest, who, finding that we did not speak Italian, sent +another person to show the beauties of the church. Some Maltese ladies +greeted us very courteously, and though, perhaps, we would rather have +wandered about alone, indulging in our own recollections of the past, +we could not help being pleased with the attentions which were paid +us. + +Upon returning to our inn, we met a gentleman with whom we were +slightly acquainted, who, upon learning that I had a letter to Sir +Henry Bouverie, the governor, recommended me to deliver it in person, +the palace being close at hand. Our party met with a very courteous +reception, and we were happy in the opportunity thus afforded of +seeing the palace, which showed remains of former grandeur far +more interesting than any modern improvements could have been. One +apartment, in particular, hung round with tapestry, which, though +brought from France 135 years ago, retains all the brilliancy of its +original colouring, pleased us exceedingly. + +There are some good paintings upon the walls; but the armoury is the +most attractive feature in the palace. It consists of one splendid +apartment, running the whole length of the building, and makes a very +imposing appearance; the arms of various periods being well arranged. +The collection of ancient weapons was not so great as I had expected; +still there were very interesting specimens, and an intelligent +corporal, belonging to one of the Queen's regiments, who acted as +_Cicerone_, gave us all the information we could require. + +Some of our party had the curiosity to visit the cemetery of the +Capuchin convent, in which the monks who die, after having undergone +a preserving process, are dressed in the habit of the order, and +fastened up in niches; when the skeletons, from extreme age, actually +fall to pieces, the skulls and bones are formed into funeral trophies +for the decoration of the walls; and the whole is described as a most +revolting and barbarous spectacle. The last occupant was said to have +departed this life as late as 1835, adding, by the comparative newness +of his inhumation, to the horrors of the scene. + +The influence of the priesthood, though still very great, is +represented to be upon the decline; they have lately, however, +shown their power, by retarding the progress of the building of the +Protestant church, to which the Dowager Queen Adelaide so munificently +subscribed. All the workmen employed are obliged to have dispensations +from the Pope, and every pretext is eagerly seized upon to delay the +erection of the edifice. At present, the Protestant community, with +few exceptions, are content to have service performed in an angle of +the court-yard of the palace, formerly a cellar and kitchen, but now +converted into an episcopal chapel and vestry-room. The members of +the society have a small chapel, not adequate to the accommodation of +those who desire to attend it, belonging to the Methodist persuasion; +but its minister is afraid to encounter the difficulties and delays +which would be consequent upon an attempt to enlarge it. There is a +public library adjoining the palace, originally formed by the knights, +but considered now to be more extensive than valuable. + +The period which I spent upon the island was too brief to allow me to +make any inquiries respecting its institutions, the novelties of +the scene engaging my attention so completely, that I could give no +thought to anything else. The shops and _cafés_ of La Valetta have a +very gay appearance, and the ingenuity of the inhabitants is displayed +in several manufactures; the black lace mittens, now so fashionable, +being particularly well made. Table-linen, also of superior quality, +may be purchased, wrought in elegant patterns, and, if bespoken, with +the coat-of-arms or crest worked into the centre or the corners. In +the fashioning of the precious metals, the Maltese likewise excel, +their filagree-work, both in gold and silver, being very beautiful: +the Maltese chains have long enjoyed a reputation in Europe, and other +ornaments may be purchased of equal excellence. + +To the eye of a stranger, Malta, at this period of the year (the end +of September), seems bare and destitute of verdure; yet, from the +quantity of every kind of vegetables brought to market, it must be +amazingly productive. The growth of cotton, lately introduced into +Egypt, has been injurious to the trade and manufactures of Malta, and +the attempt to supply its place with silk failed. In the opinion of +some persons, the experiment made had not a fair trial. The mulberry +trees flourished, and the silk produced was of an excellent quality; +but the worms did not thrive, and in consequence the design was +abandoned. Inquiry has shown, that the leaves from old trees are +essential to the existence of the silk-worm, and that, had the +projectors of the scheme been aware of a fact so necessary to be +known, they would have awaited the result of a few more years, which +seems all that was necessary for the success of the undertaking. +How many goodly schemes have been ruined from the want of scientific +knowledge upon the part of their projectors, and how frequently it +happens that a moment of impatience will destroy the hopes of years! + +Fruit is cheap, plentiful, and excellent at Malta, the figs and grapes +being of very superior quality, while the island affords materials for +the most luxurious table. The golden mullet and the _Becca fica_ are +abundant; and all the articles brought to market are procurable at +low prices. I can scarcely imagine a more agreeable place to spend a +winter in, and I promise myself much gratification in the sojourn of +a few weeks at this delightful island upon my return to England. I can +very strongly recommend Durnsford's Hotel as a place of residence, the +accommodation being excellent and the terms moderate. In remaining any +time, arrangement may be made for apartments and board, by which means +the rate of living is much cheaper, while the style is equally good. + +There is an opera at Malta, in which performances of various degrees +of mediocrity are given. The gay period to a stranger is that of the +carnival; but, at other times, the festivals of the church, celebrated +in this isolated place with more of the mummeries of Roman Catholicism +than obtain in many other countries professing the same faith, afford +amusement to the lovers of the grotesque. + +Though the thermometer at Malta seldom rises to 90°, yet the heat in +the sultry season is very great. Every person, who is in the habit of +studying the glass, becomes aware of the difference between the heat +that is actually felt and that which is indicated by instruments; and +in no place is this discrepancy more sensibly experienced than Malta, +in which the state of the winds materially affects the comfort of the +inhabitants. A good authority assures us, that "the heat of Malta +is most oppressive, so much so, as to justify the term 'implacable,' +which is often applied to it. The sun, in summer, remains so long +above the horizon, and the stone walls absorb such an enormous +quantity of heat, that they never have sufficient time to get +cool; and during the short nights, this heat radiates from them so +copiously, as to render the nights, in fact, as hot as the days, and +much more oppressive to the feelings of those who are accustomed +to associate the idea of coolness with darkness. I have seen the +thermometer, in a very sheltered part of my house, steadily maintain, +during the night, the same height to which it had arisen in the day, +while I marked it with feelings of incalculably increased oppression, +and this for three successive weeks in August and September, 1822." + +At Malta, we were recommended, in consequence of the unsettled state +of affairs between Mehemet Ali and the European powers, to proceed +forthwith to Egypt, and though strongly tempted to prolong my stay in +the island, I thought it advisable to make the best of my way to the +Red Sea, and defer the pleasure, which a more protracted residence +promised, until my return in the ensuing year. Lieut. Goldsmith, our +kind commandant of the _Megara_, called upon us, according to promise, +to conduct us on board the new steamer, the _Volcano_, the vessel +appointed to carry the mails on to Alexandria. This ship was in +quarantine, and it was consequently necessary to take some precautions +in going on board. We proceeded, in the first instance, to a police +station, where we took a second boat in tow, and a _guadiano_, an +official appointed to see that no persons transgress the rules and +regulations of the port instituted for the preservation of health. + +Upon getting alongside of the _Volcano_, our baggage was placed in +this boat; Miss E. and myself were then handed in, and cast adrift, to +my great astonishment; for not having had any previous intimation of +the method to be pursued, I was not at all prepared to hold on, as I +believe it is called, without assistance. Miss E., however, who was +more observant, hooked her parasol into one of the ropes, which +she subsequently caught. We were now to be taught a new lesson--the +extreme nonchalance with which the officers of a Government steamer +treat the passengers who have the misfortune to choose these boats +instead of making the voyage on board merchant vessels. Some minutes +elapsed before any notice was taken of us, or any assistance afforded +in getting up our baggage; our own people being obliged to look on +and do nothing, since, had they touched the ship, they would have been +obliged to perform eighteen days of quarantine. + +Upon reaching the deck, we requested that our baggage might be taken +down into the ladies' cabin, in order that we might get our small +dormitories put to rights before the rest of the passengers came on +board; but, though it could have made no earthly difference to the +people employed, we met with a refusal, and the whole was deposited in +the grand saloon, already encumbered with luggage, every quarter of an +hour adding to the heap and the confusion, and the difficulty of each +person recognizing the identical carpet-bag or portmanteau that he +might claim as his property.[A] + +Among our new fellow-passengers there was a young English gentleman, +who intended to travel into Syria, and who, though looking scarcely +twenty, had already spent some years in foreign countries. He was very +modest and unassuming, and both agreeable and intelligent; and, having +had a good deal of conversation together, I was sorry to lose sight of +him at Alexandria. + +We had also one of Mehemet Ali's _protégés_ on board, a young +Egyptian, who had been educated at the Pasha's expense in England, +where he had resided for the last ten years, latterly in the +neighbourhood of a dock-yard, in order to study the art of +ship-building. This young man was a favourite with those persons on +board who could make allowances for the circumstances in which he had +been placed, and who did not expect acquirements which it was almost +impossible for him to attain. His natural abilities were very good, +and he had cultivated them to the utmost of his power. Strongly +attached to European customs, manners, and institutions, he will lose +no opportunity of improving the condition of his countrymen, or of +inducing them to discard those prejudices which retard the progress +of civilization. He was naturally very anxious concerning his future +destiny, for the Pasha's favour is not always to be depended upon, +while the salary of many of the appointments which he does bestow is +by no means adequate to the support of men whom his liberality has +enabled to live in great respectability and comfort in England. Our +new acquaintance also felt that, in returning to his friends and +relatives, he should shock all their prejudices by his entire +abandonment of those customs and opinions by which they were still +guided; he grieved especially at the distress which he should cause +his mother, and determined not to enter into her presence until he had +assumed the national dress, and could appear, outwardly at least, like +an Egyptian. + +The weather, during our short voyage, was remarkably favourable, +although it got rather too warm, especially at night, for comfort. +There are, however, great alleviations to heat in the Mediterranean +steamers. The ladies can have a wind-sail in their cabin, which, +together with the air from the stern windows, renders the temperature +at all times very delightful. They enjoy another advantage in having +a light burning all night, a comfort which cannot be too highly +appreciated, since darkness on board ship increases every other +annoyance. + +We left Malta on the evening of the 25th, and arrived at Alexandria +early in the morning of the 30th. Every eye was strained to catch the +first view of the Egyptian coast, and especially of the Pharos, which +in ancient time directed the mariners to its shores; but the great +object of attraction at this period consisted of the united fleets, +Turkish and Egyptian, which rode at anchor in the port. Our steamer +threaded its way amid these fine-looking vessels, some of which we +passed so closely, as to be able to look into the cabin-windows. To +my unprofessional eye, these ships looked quite as efficient as any +warlike armament of the same nature that I had yet seen. They all +appeared to be well kept, and in good order, while the sailors were +clean, neatly dressed, and actively engaged, some in boats, and others +performing various duties. Though steamers are now very common sights, +we in turn attracted attention, all eyes being directed to our deck. + +Our Egyptian fellow-passenger was especially interested and agitated +at his approach to his native shore, and the evidences which he saw +before him of the power and political influence of the Pasha. From a +gentleman who came on board, we learned that an apprehension had +been entertained at Alexandria of the arrival of a hostile fleet from +Europe, in which event a collision would in all probability have +taken place. Mehemet Ali, it was said, was so foolishly elated by +his successes, and by the attitude he had assumed, as to be perfectly +unaware of his true position, and of the lesson which he would +receive, should he persist in defying the remonstrances of his +European allies. It was also said, that nothing but the favour +shown by the French cabinet to the Pasha had hitherto prevented the +commencement of hostilities, since the British Government, taking the +view of its representative at Constantinople, felt strongly inclined +to proceed to extremities. I merely, of course, state the rumour that +prevailed; whether they carried the slightest authority or not, I do +not pretend to determine. + +Alexandria, from the sea, presents a very imposing appearance; long +lines of handsome buildings, apparently of white stone, relieved by +green Venetian blinds, afford evidence of increasing prosperity, and +a wish to imitate the style of European cities. There is nothing, +however, in the landing-place worthy of the approach to a place of +importance; a confused crowd of camels, donkeys, and their drivers, +congregated amidst heaps of rubbish, awaited us upon reaching the +shore. We had been told that we should be almost torn to pieces by +this rabble, in their eagerness to induce us to engage the services of +themselves or their animals. Accustomed as we had been to the attacks +of French waiters, we were astonished by the indifference of the +people, who very contentedly permitted us to walk to the place of our +destination. + +The lady-passengers, who arrived in the steamer, agreed to prosecute +the remainder of the journey in company; our party, therefore, +consisted of four, with two servants, and a baby; the latter a +beautiful little creature, of seven months old, the pet and delight of +us all. This darling never cried, excepting when she was hungry, and +she would eat any thing, and go to any body. One of the servants +who attended upon her was a Mohammedan native of India, an excellent +person, much attached to his little charge; and we were altogether a +very agreeable party, quite ready to enjoy all the pleasures, and to +encounter all the difficulties, which might come in our way. + +Having formed my expectations of Alexandria from books of travels, +which describe it as one of the most wretched places imaginable, I was +agreeably disappointed by the reality. My own experience of +Mohammedan cities had taught me to anticipate much more of squalor and +dilapidation than I saw; though I confess, that both were sufficiently +developed to strike an European eye. We wended our way through +avenues ancle-deep in sand, and flanked on either side with various +descriptions of native houses, some mere sheds, and others of more +lofty and solid construction. We encountered in our progress several +native parties belonging to the respectable classes; and one lady, +very handsomely dressed, threw aside her outer covering, a dark silk +robe, somewhat resembling a domino, and removing her veil, allowed us +to see her dress and ornaments, which were very handsome. She was +a fine-looking woman, with a very good-natured expression of +countenance. + + +[Footnote A: The author followed up these remarks with others, still +more severe, upon the treatment which she and her fellow-travellers +experienced on board this vessel; but as these remarks seem to have +caused pain, and as Miss Roberts, without retracting one particle of +her statements, regretted that she had published them, it has been +deemed right to omit them in this work.] + + + + +CHAPTER IV. + + * * * * * + +ALEXANDRIA TO BOULAK. + + * * * * * + + Description of Alexandria--Hotels--Houses--Streets--Frank + Shops--Cafés--Equipages--Arrangements for the Journey to + Suez--Pompey's Pillar--Turkish and Arab Burial-grounds--Preparations + for the Journey to Cairo--Embarkation on the Canal--Bad accommodation + in the Boat--Banks of the Canal--Varieties of Costume in + Egypt--Collision during the night--Atfee--Its wretched appearance--The + Pasha--Exchange of Boats--Disappointment at the Nile--Scarcity of + Trees--Manners of the Boatmen--Aspect of the Villages--The Marquess + of Waterford--The Mughreebee Magician--First sight of the + Pyramids--Arrival at Boulak, the Port of Cairo. + + +There are several excellent hotels at Alexandria for the accommodation +of European travellers. We were recommended to Rey's, in which we +found every comfort we could desire. The house is large and handsome, +and well situated, being at the end of a wide street, or rather +_place_, in which the more wealthy of the Frank inhabitants reside, +and where there are several houses belonging to the consuls of +various nations. These latter are usually detached mansions, of a +very handsome description, and one especially, facing the top, will be +magnificent when finished. + +All the houses in this quarter are very solidly constructed, lofty, +and with flat roofs. The ground-floor seems to be appropriated to +merchandize, or as domestic offices, the habitable apartments being +above. The windows are supplied with outside Venetian blinds, usually +painted green, which, together with the pure white of the walls, gives +them a fresh and new appearance, which I had not expected to see. In +fact, nothing could exceed the surprise with which I viewed a street +that would have excited admiration in many of our European capitals. +It will in a short time be embellished by a fountain, which was +erecting at the period of my visit: could the residents get trees +to grow, nothing more would be wanting to render it one of the +most superb avenues of the kind extant; but, a few inches below the +surface, the earth at Alexandria is so completely impregnated +with briny particles, as to render the progress of vegetation very +difficult at all times, and in some places impossible. + +This portion of the city is quite modern; near it there is a more +singular and more ancient series of buildings, called the _Okella_; +a word, I believe, derived from _castle_. This consists of one large +quadrangle, or square, entered by gateways at different sides. A +terrace, approached by flights of steps, extends all round, forming +a broad colonnade, supported upon arches. The houses belonging to the +Franks open upon this terrace; they are large and commodious, but the +look-out does not equal that from the newer quarter; the quadrangle +below exhibiting any thing rather than neatness or order. Goods and +utensils of various kinds, donkeys, camels, and horses, give it the +appearance of the court of a native serai, though at the same time +it may be said to be quite as well kept as many places of a similar +description upon the continent of Europe. The Frank shopkeepers have +their establishments in a narrower avenue at the end of the wide +street before-mentioned. Here are several _cafés_, apparently for the +accommodation of persons to whom the hotels might be too expensive; +some of these are handsomely fitted up in their way: one, especially, +being panelled with shewy French paper, in imitation of the Gobelins +tapestry. I was not sufficiently near to discern the subject, but +when lighted, the colours and figures produced a very gay effect. +I observed a considerable number of druggists' shops; they were +generally entirely open in front, so that the whole economy of the +interior was revealed to view. The arrangements were very neat; the +various articles for sale being disposed upon shelves all round. +We did not make any purchases either here or in the Turkish bazaar, +which, both morning and evening, was crowded with people. Several very +good houses in the European style were pointed out to us as belonging +to Turkish gentlemen, high in office and in the receipt of large +incomes. + +We had ordered dinner at seven o'clock, for the purpose of taking +advantage of the cool part of the day to walk about. We confined our +peregrinations to the Frank quarter and its immediate neighbourhood, +and were amused by the singular figures of other European pedestrians +whom we met with, but whose peculiar country it was difficult to +discover by their dress. Several gentlemen made their appearance on +horseback, but we did not see any females of the superior class. Two +English carriages, filled with Turkish grandees, dashed along with +the recklessness which usually distinguishes native driving; and other +magnates of the land, mounted upon splendid chargers, came forth in +all the pride of Oriental pomp. Having sufficiently fatigued ourselves +with walking ancle-deep in dust and sand, we returned to our hotel, +where we found an excellent dinner, which, among other good things, +comprehended a dish of Beccaficos. + +As I had not intended to reach Alexandria so soon, neither Miss E. +nor myself had given notice of our approach; consequently, there was +nothing in readiness. We had, notwithstanding, hoped to have found +a boat prepared, a friend in London having promised to mention the +possibility of our being in Egypt with the mails that left Marseilles +on the 21st; but this precaution had been neglected, and the +gentleman, who would have provided us with the best vessel procurable, +was too busy with duties which the arrival of the steamer entailed +upon him to do more than express his regret that he could not devote +his whole attention to our comfort. In this emergency, we applied to +Mr. Waghorn, who, in the expectation that I might wish to remain at +Alexandria, had most kindly prepared an apartment for my reception +at his own house. The aspect of affairs, however, did not admit of +my running any risks, and I therefore determined to proceed to Suez +without delay. Under these circumstances, he did the best that the +nature of the case permitted; assured me that I should have his own +boat, which, though small, was perfectly clean, when we got to the +Nile, and provided me with all that I required for the passage. Mrs. +Waghorn also recommended a servant, whose appearance we liked, and +whom we instantly engaged for the trip to Suez. + +I had brought letters to the consul-general, and to several residents +in Alexandria, who immediately paid me visits at our hotel. Colonel +Campbell was most particularly kind and attentive, offering one of the +government janissaries as an escort to Cairo; an offer which we most +readily accepted, and which proved of infinite service to us. We had +no trouble whatever about our baggage; we left it on board, under the +care of the trusty black servant. One of the officers of the ship, who +had distinguished himself during the voyage by his polite attention to +the passengers, had come on shore with us; he sent to the vessel for +our goods and chattels, took our keys and the janissary with him to +the custom-house, and we had speedily the pleasure of seeing them come +upon a camel to the door of the hotel, the fees charged, and the hire +of the animal, being very trifling. There was a large apartment on one +side of the gateway, in which those boxes which we did not desire to +open were deposited, the door being secured by a good lock; in fact, +nothing could be better than the whole arrangements of the hotel. It +was agreed that as little time as possible should be lost in getting +to Suez, and we therefore determined to prosecute our journey as early +in the afternoon of the next day as we could get every thing ready. +Donkeys were to be in waiting at daylight, to convey the party to +Pompey's Pillar, and we retired to rest, overcome by the fatigue and +excitement we had undergone. It was sufficiently warm to render it +pleasant to have some of the windows open; and once or twice in the +night we were awakened by the furious barking of the houseless and +ownerless dogs, which are to be found in great numbers throughout +Egypt. In the day-time the prevailing sound at Alexandria is the +braying of donkeys, diversified by the grunts and moans of the almost +equally numerous camels. + +Engravings have made every inquiring person well acquainted with the +celebrated monument which goes by the name of "Pompey's Pillar," and +the feelings with which we gazed upon it are much more easily imagined +than described. It has the advantage of standing upon a rather +considerable elevation, a ridge of sand, and below it are strewed vast +numbers of more humble memorials of the dead. The Turkish and the Arab +burial-grounds spread themselves at the feet of the Pillar: each +grave is distinguished by a mound of earth and a stone. The piety of +surviving relatives has, in some places, forced the stubborn sand +to yield proofs of their affectionate remembrance of the deceased; +occasionally, we see some single green plant struggling to shadow +the last resting-place of one who slept below; and if any thing were +wanting to add to the melancholy of the scene, it would have been the +stunted and withering leaves thus mournfully enshrouding the silent +dead. There is something so unnatural in the conjunction of a scanty +vegetation with a soil cursed with hopeless aridity, that the gardens +and few green spots, occurring in the neighbourhood of Alexandria, +detract from, instead of embellishing, the scene. Though pleasant +and beautiful as retreats to those who can command an entrance, these +circumscribed patches of verdure offend rather than please the eye, +when viewed from a distance. + +The antiquities of Egypt have been too deeply studied by the erudite +of all Christian countries, for an unlearned traveller to entertain +a hope of being able to throw any additional light upon them. Modern +tourists must, therefore, be content with the feelings which they +excite, and to look, to the present state of things for subjects of +any promise of interest to the readers of their journals. + +After breakfast, we received a visit from the Egyptian gentleman who +had been our fellow-passenger. He brought with him a friend, who, like +himself, had been educated in England, and who had obtained a good +appointment, together with the rank of a field officer, from the +Pasha. The manners of the gentleman were good; modest, but not shy. +He spoke excellent English, and conversed very happily upon all +the subjects broached. Our friend was still in doubt and anxiety +respecting his own destination. Mehemet Ali had left Alexandria for +one of his country residences, on the plea of requiring change of air; +but, in reality, it was said, to avoid the remonstrances of those who +advocated a policy foreign to his wishes. The new arrival could not +present himself to the minister until he should be equipped in an +Egyptian dress. The friend who accompanied him gave us the pleasing +intelligence, that a large handsome boat, with ladies' cabin detached, +and capable of carrying forty passengers, had been built by the +merchants of Alexandria, and when completed--and it only wanted +painting and fitting up--would convey travellers up the canal to +Atfee, a distance which, towed by horses, it would perform in twelve +hours. Small iron steamers were expected from England, to ply upon the +Nile, and with these accommodations, nothing would be more easy and +pleasant than a journey which sometimes takes many days to accomplish, +and which is frequently attended with inconvenience and difficulty. + +We found that Mrs. Waghorn had provided Miss E. and myself with beds, +consisting each of a good mattress stuffed with cotton, a pillow of +the same, and a quilted coverlet, also stuffed with cotton. She lent +us a very handsome canteen; for the party being obliged to separate, +in consequence of the small accommodation afforded in the boats, we +could not avail ourselves of that provided by the other ladies with +whom we were to travel, until we should all meet again upon the +desert. As there may be a danger of not meeting with a canteen, +exactly suited to the wants of the traveller, for sale at Alexandria, +it is advisable to procure one previously to leaving Europe; those +fitted up with tin saucepans are necessary, for it is not easy +to carry cooking apparatus in any other form. We did not encumber +ourselves with either chair or table, but would afterwards have +been glad of a couple of camp-stools. Our supplies consisted of tea, +coffee, wine, wax-candles (employing a good glass lanthorn for a +candlestick), fowls, bread, fruit, milk, eggs, and butter; a pair of +fowls and a piece of beef being ready-roasted for the first meal. We +also carried with us some bottles of filtered water. The baggage of +the party was conveyed upon three camels and a donkey, and we formed a +curious-looking cavalcade as we left the hotel. + +In the first place, the native Indian servant bestrode a donkey, +carrying at the same time our beautiful baby in his arms, who wore a +pink silk bonnet, and had a parasol over her head. All the assistance +he required from others was to urge on his beast, and by the +application of sundry whacks and thumps, he soon got a-head. The +ladies, in coloured muslin dresses, and black silk shawls, rode in +a cluster, attended by the janissary, and two Arab servants also on +donkey-back; a gentleman, who volunteered his escort, and the owners +of the donkeys, who walked by our sides. As I had never rode any +animal, excepting an elephant, until I landed at Alexandria, I did not +feel perfectly at home on the back of a donkey, and therefore desired +Mohammed, our new servant, to give directions to my attendant to +take especial care of me. These injunctions he obeyed to the letter, +keeping close at my side, and at every rough piece of road putting +one hand on the donkey and the other in front of my waist. I could +not help shrinking from such close contact with a class of persons not +remarkable for cleanliness, either of garment or of skin; but the poor +fellow meant well, and as I had really some occasion for his services, +and his appearance was respectable, I thought it no time to be +fastidious, and could not help laughing at the ridiculous figure I +made. + +We passed some fine buildings and baths; the latter very tempting in +their external appearance, and, according to general repute, excellent +of their kind. When we came to the gate of the wall of Alexandria, we +encountered a funeral procession returning from the cemetery close to +Pompey's Pillar. They were a large party, accompanied by many women, +who, notwithstanding their grief, stopped to gratify their curiosity, +by a minute inspection of our strange persons, and still stranger +garb. We were all huddled together in the gateway, which, the walls +being thick, took a few minutes to pass through, and thus had an +opportunity of a very close examination of each other; the veils of +the women, however, prevented us from scanning their countenances very +distinctly; and as we passed on, we encountered a herd of buffaloes, +animals quite new to Miss E., who had never seen one even as a +zoological specimen. We passed the base of Pompey's Pillar, and +through the burying-grounds; and in another quarter of an hour came +to the banks of the canal, and got on board the boat, which had been +engaged to take us to Atfee. + +In the whole course of my travels, I had never seen any thing so +forlorn and uncomfortable as this boat. The accommodation destined for +us consisted of two cabins, or rather cribs, opening into each other, +and so low in the roof as not to permit a full-grown person to stand +upright in either. Some attempt had been formerly made at painting and +carving, but dirt was now the predominant feature, while the holes and +crannies on every side promised free egress to the vermin, apparently +long tenants of the place. Although certain of remaining the night +upon the canal, we would not suffer our beds to be unpacked; but, +seating ourselves upon our boxes, took up a position near the door, in +order to see as much as possible of the prospect. + +The banks of the canal are very luxuriant; but, lying low, are +infested with insects of various kinds; musquitoes came on board +in clouds, and the flies were, if possible, more tormenting; it is, +therefore, very desirable to get out of this channel as speedily as +possible. We saw the vessel, a fine, large, handsome boat, which +had been mentioned to us as building for the purpose of conveying +passengers to Atfee; consequently, should the political questions now +agitating be amicably settled, and Egypt still continue to be a +high road for travellers to India, the inconveniences of which I now +complain will soon cease to exist. + +We passed some handsome houses, built after the European fashion, one +of which we were told belonged to the Pasha's daughter, the wife of +the dufturdar; it was surrounded by gardens, but had nothing very +imposing in its appearance. We came also upon an encampment of the +Pasha's troops, which consisted of numerous small round tents, huddled +together, without the order displayed by an European army. The men +themselves, though report speaks well of their discipline, had not the +soldierlike look which I had seen and admired in the native troops +of India. The impossibility of keeping their white garments clean, in +such a country as Egypt, is very disadvantageous to their appearance, +and it is unfortunate that something better adapted to withstand +the effects of dust should not have been chosen. The janissary who +accompanied us, and who was clothed in red, had a much more military +air. He was a fine-looking fellow, tall, and well-made; and his dress, +which was very becoming, was formed of fine materials. Our servant +Mohammed had also a pleasing countenance, full of vivacity and good +humour, which we found the general characteristics of the people of +Egypt, especially those immediately above the lower class, and who +enjoyed any degree of comfort. + +There are several varieties of costume worn in Egypt, some consisting +of long gowns or vests worn over the long trowser. The military dress, +which was that worn by the janissary and our servant, is both graceful +and becoming. It is rather difficult to describe the nether garment, +which is wide to the knee, and very full and flowing behind; added to +this, the janissary wore a light pantaloon, descending to the ancle; +but Mohammed, excepting when he encased them in European stockings, +had his legs bare: the waistcoat and jacket fit tight to the shape, +and are of a tasteful cut, and together with a sash and the crimson +cap with a dark blue tassel, almost universal, form a picturesque and +handsome dress. That worn by our servant was made of fine blue +stuff, embroidered, or rather braided, at the edges; and this kind +of ornament is so general, that even some of the poorest fellahs, who +possess but one coarse canvas shirt, will have that garnished with +braiding in some scroll-pattern. + +There was not much to be seen on the banks of the Mahmoudie: here and +there, a priest at his devotions at the water-side, or a few miserable +cottages, diversified the scene. We encountered, however, numerous +boats; and so great was the carelessness of the navigators, that we +had considerable difficulty in preventing a collision, which, but for +the good look-out kept by the janissary, must have happened more +than once. Whenever the breeze permitted, we hoisted a sail; at other +times, the boatmen dragged the boat along; and in this manner we +continued our voyage all night. We regretted much the absence of +moonlight, since, the moment the day closed, all our amusement was at +an end. Cock-roaches, as large as the top of a wine-glass, made +their appearance; we heard the rats squeaking around, and found the +musquitoes more desperate in their attacks than ever. The flies with +one accord went to sleep, settling in such immense numbers on the +ceiling immediately over my head, that I felt tempted to look for a +lucifer-match, and put them all to death. The expectation, however, +of leaving the boat early the next morning, deterred me from this +wholesale slaughter; but I had no mercy on the musquitoes, as, +attracted by the light, they settled on the glasses of the lanthorn. + +It was a long and dismal night, the only accident that occurred +being a concussion, which sent Miss E. and myself flying from our +portmanteaus. We had run foul of another boat, or rather all the +shouting of the Arab lungs on board our vessel had failed to arouse +the sleepers in the craft coming down. At length, the day dawned, +and we tried, by copious ablution and a change of dress, to refresh +ourselves after our sleepless night. + +Finding that we wanted milk for breakfast, we put a little boy, one of +the crew, on shore, in order to procure some at a village; meanwhile, +a breeze sprung up, and we went on at so quick a rate, that we thought +we must have left him behind. Presently, however, we saw the poor +fellow running as fast as possible, but still careful of his pannikin; +and after a time we got him on board. In accomplishing this, the boy +was completely ducked; but whether he was otherwise hurt, or +this catastrophe occurring when out of breath or fatigued with +over-exertion, I do not know; but he began to cry in a more piteous +manner than could be justified by the cause alleged, namely, the +wetting of his only garment, an old piece of sacking. I directed +Mohammed to reward his services with a piastre, a small silver coin +of the value of 2-1/2d.; and never, perhaps, did so trifling a sum +of money produce so great an effect. In one moment, the cries +were hushed, the tears dried, and in the contemplation of his +newly-acquired riches, he lost the recollection of all his troubles. + +It was nearly twelve o'clock in the day before we reached Atfee; and +with all my previous experience of the wretched places inhabited by +human beings, I was surprised by the desolation of the village at +the head of the canal. The houses, if such they might be called, were +huddled upon the side of a cliff; their mud walls, covered on the top +with a few reeds or a little straw, looking like the cliff itself. A +few irregular holes served for doors and windows; but more uncouth, +miserable hovels could not have been seen amongst the wildest savages. +Some of these places I perceived had a small court-yard attached, the +hut being at the end, and only distinguishable by a poor attempt at a +roof, the greater part of which had fallen in. + +We were here obliged to leave our boat; landing on the opposite side +to this village, and walking a short distance, we found ourselves +upon the banks of the Nile. The place was in great confusion, in +consequence of the actual presence of the Pasha, who, for himself +and suite, we were told, had engaged every boat excepting the one +belonging to Mr. Waghorn, in which the mails, entrusted to him, had +been put. As it was impossible that four ladies, for our friends had +now joined us, with their European female servant and the baby, could +be accommodated in this small vessel, we despatched our janissary, +with a letter in the Turkish language to the governor of Atfee, with +which we had been provided at Alexandria, and we were immediately +politely informed that the best boat attainable should be at our +disposal. + +The Pasha had taken up his quarters at a very mean-looking house, and +he soon afterwards made his appearance in front of it. Those who +had not become acquainted with his person by portraits, or other +descriptions, were disappointed at seeing a common-looking man, short +in stature, and very plainly clad, having formed a very different idea +of the sovereign of Egypt. Not having any proper introductions, and +knowing that the Pasha makes a great favour of granting an audience to +European ladies, we made no attempt to address him; thus sacrificing +our curiosity to our sense of decorum. There was of course a great +crowd round the Pasha, and we embarked for the purpose of surveying it +to greater advantage. + +Our boat was moored in front of a narrow strip of ground between the +river and a large dilapidated mansion, having, however, glass windows +in it, which bore the ostentatious title of _Hotel du Mahmoudie._ +This circumscribed space was crowded with camels and their drivers; +great men and their retainers passing to and fro; market people +endeavouring to sell their various commodities, together with a +multitudinous collection of men, dogs, and donkeys. I observed that +all the people surveyed the baby as she was carried through them, in +her native servant's arms, with peculiar benignity. She was certainly +a beautiful specimen of an English infant, and in her pretty white +frock, lace cap, and drawn pink silk bonnet, would have attracted +attention anywhere; such an apparition the people now assembled +at Atfee had probably never seen before, and they were evidently +delighted to look at her. She was equally pleased, crowing and +spreading out her little arms to all who approached her. + +The smallness of the boat rendered it necessary that I should open +one of my portmanteaus, and take out a supply of clothes before it was +sent away; while thus occupied, I found myself overlooked by two or +three respectably-clad women, who were in a boat, with several men, +alongside. I did not, of course, understand what they said, but by +their gestures guessed that they were asking for some of the strange +things which they saw. I had nothing that I could well spare, or that +I thought would be useful to them, excepting a paper of needles, which +I put into one of their hands, through the window of the cabin. The +envelope being flourished over with gold, they at first thought that +there was nothing more to be seen, but being directed by signs to +open it, they were in ecstasy at the sight of the needles, which they +proceeded forthwith to divide. + +We now pushed off, and found that, in the narrow limits to which we +were confined, we must only retain our carpet-bags and dressing-cases. +The small cabin which occupies the stern was surrounded on three sides +with lockers, which formed seats, but which were too narrow to hold +our beds; moveable planks, of different dimensions, to suit the shape +of the boat, fitted in, making the whole flush when requisite, and +forming a space amply wide enough for our mattresses, but in which +we could not stand upright. To our great joy, we found the whole +extremely clean, and in perfect repair, so that we could easily submit +to the minor evils that presented themselves. + +We had found Mohammed very active, attentive, and ready in the +departments in which we had hitherto employed him, but we were +now about to put his culinary abilities to the test. He spoke very +tolerable English, but surprised us a little by inquiring whether we +should like an Irish stew for dinner. A fowl was killed and picked in +a trice, and Mohammed had all his own way, excepting with regard to +the onions, which were, in his opinion, woefully restricted. A fowl +stewed with butter and potatoes, and garnished with boiled eggs, is +no bad thing, especially when followed by a dessert of fresh dates, +grapes, and pomegranates. A clerk of Mr. Waghorn's, an European, who +had the charge of the mails, went up in the boat with us; but as we +could not possibly afford him any accommodation in our cabin, his +situation at the prow must have been very uncomfortable. He was +attended by a servant; there were ten or twelve boatmen, which, +together with Mohammed and the janissary, completely crowded the deck, +so that it was impossible for them all to lie down at full length. + +I have not said a word about the far-famed river, which I had so long +and so anxiously desired to see; the late inundations had filled it +to the brim, consequently it could not have been viewed at a more +favourable period; but I was dreadfully disappointed. In a flat +country, like Lower Egypt, I had not expected any thing beyond +luxuriance of vegetation; but my imagination had been excited by ideas +of groves of palms. I found the date trees so thinly scattered, as to +be quite insignificant as a feature in the scene, and except when we +came to a village, there were no other. + +The wind being strong, we got on at first at a rapid rate, and as we +carried a press of sail, the boat lay over completely, as to put the +gunwale (as I believe it is called) in the water. We looked eagerly +out, pleased when we saw some illustration of old customs with which +the Bible had made us acquainted, or when the janissary, who was +an intelligent person, pointed to a Bedouin on the banks. Miss E. +flattered herself that she had caught sight of a crocodile, and as she +described the huge jaws of some creature gaping out of the water, +I thought that she was right, and envied her good fortune: however, +afterwards, being assured that crocodiles never make their appearance +below Cairo, I was convinced that, unaccustomed to see animals +belonging to the Bovine group in a foreign element, she had taken +the head of a buffalo emerging from the river, for one of the classic +monsters of the flood. When weary of looking out, without seeing any +thing but sky and water, and a few palm trees, I amused myself with +reading Wordsworth, and thus the day passed away. + +When evening came, we seated ourselves in front of the cabin, outside, +to enjoy the sunset, and after our loss of rest on the preceding +night, slept very comfortably. The next morning at noon, we had +accomplished half the distance to Cairo, having some time passed every +boat we saw upon the river. Arriving at a village, Mr. Waghorn's agent +determined upon going on shore, and carrying the mails on the backs of +donkeys, in order to ensure their arrival at Suez time enough to +meet the steamer. He had been assured that we had passed the boat +containing the Government mails in the night, but had not been able to +ascertain the fact himself. I think it necessary to mention this, as +a proof of the indefatigable endeavours made by Mr. Waghorn to ensure +the speediest method of transit. + +As the people had worked very hard, we directed Mohammed to purchase +some meat for them in the bazaar, in order that they might indulge in +a good meal; we also took the opportunity of purchasing a supply of +eggs, fowls, and fruit, lest we should fall short before we reached +Cairo. The fowls were so small, that, having our appetites sharpened +by the fresh air of the river, we could easily manage one between us +for breakfast, and another at dinner. We did not make trial of the +unfiltered waters of the Nile, not drinking it until it had deposited +its mud. Though previously informed that no beverage could be +more delightful than that afforded by this queen of rivers in its +unsophisticated state, I did not feel at all tempted to indulge; but +am quite ready to do justice to its excellence when purified from the +grosser element. + +We were much pleased with the alacrity and good humour of our boatmen, +and the untiring manner in which they performed their laborious +duties. When a favouring breeze allowed them to rest, they seldom +indulged in sleep, but, sitting round in a ring upon the narrow deck, +either told stories, or were amused by the dancing of one of the +group, who, without changing his place, contrived to shift his feet +very vigorously to the music of his own voice, and that of two sticks +struck together to keep the time. They frequently used their oars in +parts of the river where they could not find a towing-path, and when +rowing, invariably accompanied their labours with a song, which, +though rude, was not unpleasant. The breeze, which had hitherto +favoured us, dying away, the poor fellows were obliged to work +harder than ever, dragging the boat up against the stream: upon these +occasions, however, we enjoyed a very agreeable degree of quietude, +and were, moreover, enabled to take a more accurate survey of the +river's banks. Living objects were not numerous, excepting in the +immediate vicinity of the villages. I was delighted when I caught +sight of an ibis, but was surprised at the comparatively small +number of birds; having been accustomed to the immense flocks which +congregate on the banks of Indian rivers. + +Our arrival at a village alone relieved the monotony of the landscape. +Some of these places were prettily situated under groves of dates +and wild fig trees, and they occasionally boasted houses of a decent +description; the majority were, however, most wretched, and we were +often surprized to see persons respectably dressed, and mounted upon +good-looking donkeys, emerge from streets and lanes leading to the +most squalid and poverty-stricken dwellings imaginable. The arrival of +a boat caused all the beggars to hasten down to the river-side; +these chiefly consisted of very old or blind persons. We had provided +ourselves with paras, a small copper coin, for the purpose of giving +alms to the miserable beings who solicited our charity, and the poor +creatures always went away well satisfied with the trifling gift +bestowed upon them. + +Every morning, the janissary and the Arab captain of the boat came to +the door of the cabin to pay their respects; with the latter we could +not hold much communication, as he did not speak a word of English; we +were, nevertheless, excellent friends. He was very good-humoured, +and we were always laughing, so that a bond of union was established +between us. He had once or twice come into such close contact with +some of our crockery-ware, as to put me in a fright, and the comic +look, with which he showed that he was aware of the mischief he had +nearly done, amused me excessively. He was evidently a wag, and from +the moment in which he discovered the congeniality of our feelings, +when any droll incident occurred, he was sure to look at us and laugh. + +The janissary spoke very tolerable English, and after sunset, when we +seated ourselves outside the cabin-door, he came forward and entered +into conversation. He told us that a quarrel having taken place +between the boatmen of a small vessel and the people of a village, the +former came on board in great numbers in the night, and murdered six +of the boatmen; and that on the affair being represented to the Pasha, +he sent three hundred soldiers to the village, and razed it to the +ground. He said that he had been in the service of several English +gentlemen, and had once an opportunity of going to England with a +captain in the navy, but that his mother was alive at that time, and +when he mentioned his wishes to her, she cried, and therefore he +could not go. The captain had told him that he would always repent not +having taken his offer; but though he wished to see England, he was +glad he had not grieved his mother. He had been at Malta, but had +taken a dislike to the Maltese, in consequence of a wrong he had +received, as a stranger, upon his landing. + +Amongst the noblemen and gentlemen whom he had served, he mentioned +the Marquess of Waterford. We asked him what sort of a person he was, +and he immediately replied, "A young devil." Mohammed, who had been +in various services with English travellers, expressed a great desire +to go to England; he said, that if he could once get there, he would +"never return to this dirty country." Both he and the janissary +apparently had formed magnificent ideas of the wealth of Great +Britain, from the lavish manner in which the English are accustomed to +part with their money while travelling. + +We inquired of Mohammed concerning the magician, whose exploits Mr. +Lane and other authors have recorded. At first, he did not understand +what we meant; but, upon further explanation, told us that he thought +the whole an imposture. He said, that when a boy, about the age of the +Arab captain's son, who was on board, he was in the service of a lady +who wished to witness the exhibition, and who selected him as the +medium of communication, because she said that she knew he would +tell her the truth. The ceremonies, therefore, commenced; but though +anxiously looking into the magic mirror, he declared that he saw +nothing: afterwards, he continued, "A boy was called out of the +bazaar, who saw all that the man told him." But while Mohammed +expressed his entire disbelief in the power of this celebrated person, +he was not devoid of the superstition of his creed and country, for +he told us that he knew of another who really did wonderful things. He +then asked us what we had called the Mughreebee whom we had described +to him: we replied, a magician; and he and the janissary repeated +the word over many times, in order to make themselves thoroughly +acquainted with it. In all cases, they were delighted with the +acquisition of a new word, and were very thankful to me when I +corrected their pronunciation. Thus, when the janissary showed me what +he called _kundergo_, growing in the fields, and explained that it +made a blue dye, and I told him that we called it _indigo_, he never +rested until he had learned the word, which he repeated to Mohammed +and Mohammed to him. I never met with two more intelligent men in +their rank of life, or persons who would do greater credit to their +teachers; and brief as has been my intercourse with the Egyptians, I +feel persuaded, that a good method of imparting knowledge is all that +is wanting to raise them in the scale of nations. + +During our progress up the river, I had been schooling myself, +and endeavouring to keep down my expectations, lest I should be +disappointed at the sight of the Pyramids. We were told that we should +see them at the distance of five-and-thirty miles; and when informed +that they were in view, my heart beat audibly as I threw open the +cabin door, and beheld them gleaming in the sun, pure and bright +as the silvery clouds above them. Far from being disappointed, the +vastness of their dimensions struck me at once, as they rose in +lonely majesty on the bare plain, with nothing to detract from their +grandeur, or to afford, by its littleness, a point of comparison. +We were never tired of gazing upon these noble monuments of an age +shrouded in impenetrable mystery. They were afterwards seen at less +advantage, in consequence of the intervention of some rising ground; +but from all points they created the strongest degree of interest. + +We had a magnificent thunder-storm just as it was growing dark, and +the red lightning lit up the pyramids, which came out, as it were, +from the black masses of clouds behind them, while the broad waters +of the Nile assumed a dark and troubled aspect. The scene was sublime, +but of short duration; for the tempest speedily rolled off down the +river; when, accompanied by a squall and heavy rain, it caught several +boats, which were obliged to put into the shore. We did not experience +the slightest inconvenience; and though the latter part of the voyage +had been protracted from want of wind, arrived at the port of Boulak +at half-past nine on the second evening of our embarkation. + + + + +CHAPTER V. + + * * * * * + +CAIRO. + + * * * * * + + Arrival at Boulak--Description of the place--Moolid, or Religious + Fair--Surprise of the People--The Hotel at Cairo--Description of + the City--The Citadel--View from thence--The City--The + Shops--The Streets--The interior of the Pasha's + Palace--Pictures--Furniture--Military Band--Affray between a Man and + Woman--Indifference of the Police to Street Broils--Natives beaten + by Englishmen--Visit to an English Antiquary--By-ways of + the City--Interior of the Houses--Nubian + Slave-market--Gypsies--Preparations for Departure to Suez--Mode + of driving in the Streets of Cairo--Leave the City--The Changes in + travelling in Egypt--Attractions of Cairo. + + +It was half-past nine o'clock, on the evening of the 4th of October, +1839, that we arrived at the port of Boulak. We expected to find some +person in waiting to give us the pass-word, and thus enable us to +get into Cairo, the gates of the city being closed at nine o'clock. +Depending upon the attendance of the hotel-keeper at Cairo, who had +been apprised of our approach, we had not put the janissary on shore, +as we ought to have done, at the British Consul's country-house, who +would have furnished us with a talisman to pass the gates. We sent +Mohammed and the janissary on shore, to see what could be done. +Including the voyage up the canal, Miss E. and myself had passed (we +could not say slept) three nights on board a boat, the first without +an attempt at repose, the two latter lying down in our dressing-gowns +upon thin mattresses, stretched upon hard boards; we, therefore, could +not very easily relinquish the endeavour to procure a bed during +the time which would intervene between the period (an hour before +day-light) in which the gates of the city would be open. + +I had a letter to the British Consul, which I gave Mohammed, telling +him to try the effect of bribery upon the guardians of the city. +During his absence, the Arab captain, feeling that we were left +under his protection, came and seated himself beside us, outside the +cabin-door. We conversed together without understanding each other's +language; he had nothing to offer us except snuff, of which we each +took a pinch, giving him in return, as he refused wine, a pomegranate, +to which I added a five-franc piece from the remains of my French +money. If any thing had been wanting to establish a good understanding +between us, this would have accomplished it. The rais, or captain, +took my hand in his, and pressed his own to his lips, in token of +gratitude; and when upon the return of Mohammed he perceived that I +was rather nervous at the idea of crossing the plank from the boat to +the shore, he plunged at once into the water to assist me over it. +The janissary brought word that there was a moolid, or religious fair, +held at the opposite end of the city, and that if we would make a +circuit of three miles round the walls, we might enter Cairo that +night, as the gate was left open for the convenience of the people +in the neighbourhood. Mohammed had aroused a donkey-man of his +acquaintance, who was in attendance, with a youth his son, and two +donkeys. To the boy was entrusted the care of the lanthorn, without +which no person is allowed to traverse the streets after nightfall, +and mounting, we set forward. + +The streets of Boulak are narrow, but the houses appear to be lofty +and substantially built. We were challenged by the soldiers at the +gates, but allowed to pass without farther inquiry. The ride round +the walls at night was dreary enough, over broken ground, occupied +by bandogs barking at us as we passed. We met occasionally groups of +people coming from the fair, who gave us the welcome intelligence that +the gates were still open, and, pushing on, we came at length to the +entrance, an archway of some magnitude. Upon turning an angle of this +wall, we suddenly emerged upon a very singular scene. The tomb of +the saint, in whose honour the moolid was held, was surrounded by +devotees, engaged in the performance of some religious rite. Around, +and in front, throughout the neighbouring streets, gleamed a strong +illumination, produced by an assemblage of lamps and lanthorns +of various kinds. Some of the shops boasted handsome cut-glass +chandeliers, or Argand lamps, evidently of European manufacture; +others were content with a circular frame, perforated with holes, +in which all sorts of glass vessels, wine-glasses, tumblers, +mustard-pots, &c., were placed, filled with oil, and having several +wicks. + +The articles displayed for sale at the fair were, as far as we could +judge from the hasty glances we cast as we passed along, good of +their kind, and of some value; the confectioners' shops made a gay +appearance with their variously-coloured sweetmeats, piled up in +tempting heaps, and we saw enough of embroidery and gold to form a +very favourable idea of the taste and splendour of the native dress. + +We were, of course, objects of great surprise and curiosity; the +sudden appearance of two European ladies, the only women present, at +eleven o'clock at night, riding on donkeys through the fair, could not +fail to create a sensation. Our boy with the lanthorn walked first, +followed by the janissary, who, flourishing his silver stick, made +room for us through the crowd. Had we not been accompanied by this +respectable official, we should scarcely have dared to venture in such +a place, and at such a period. Mohammed and the donkey-man attended +at the side of Miss E. and myself, and though some of the people could +not help laughing at the oddity of our appearance, we met with no +sort of insult or hinderance, but made our way through without the +slightest difficulty, much more easily, in fact, than two Arabs in +their native costume, even if attended by a policeman, would have +traversed a fair in England. + +The scene was altogether very singular, and we thought ourselves +fortunate in having had an opportunity of witnessing a native fair +under such novel circumstances. We could scarcely believe that we were +in a Mohammedan city, noted for its intolerance, and could not help +feeling grateful to the reigning power which had produced so striking +a change in the manners and conduct of the people. Upon leaving the +fair, we turned into dark streets, dimly illumined by the light of the +lanthorn we carried; occasionally, but very seldom, we met some +grave personage, preceded also by a lanthorn, who looked with great +astonishment at our party as we passed. At length we came to the door +of our hotel, and having knocked loudly, we were admitted into the +court-yard, when, dismounting, we proceeded up a flight of stone steps +to a verandah, which led into some very good-sized apartments. The +principal one, a large dining-room, was furnished at the upper end +in the Egyptian fashion, with divans all round; it was, however, also +well supplied with European chairs and tables, and in a few minutes +cold turkey and ham, and other good things, appeared upon the board. + +Being the first arrivals from the steamer, we had to answer numerous +questions before we could retire to bed. Upon asking to be conducted +to our chamber, we were shown up another flight of stone stairs, +leading to a second and much larger verandah, which was screened off +in departments serving as ante-chambers to the bed-rooms. There was +sufficient space on the terraces of this floor, for the descent of a +few steps led to another platform, to afford a walk of some extent, +but of this we were not aware until the morning. We found a very +comfortable two-bedded room, supplied with glass windows, and +everything belonging to it in excellent repair, and apparently free +from vermin; most thankfully did we lie down to enjoy the repose which +our late exertions had rendered so needful. + +Our trusty Mohammed had engaged donkeys for us the next day, and +promised to take us to every place worth seeing in the city. We were +strongly tempted to visit the Pyramids, but were deterred by the +danger of losing the steamer at Suez, and by the difficulties of the +undertaking. We were told that the Nile was not sufficiently flooded +to admit of our approach in a boat, and that we should be up to the +donkey's knees in mud if we attempted to go upon the backs of those +animals. We, therefore, reluctantly relinquished the idea, and +contented ourselves with what we could see of Cairo. + +Our first visit was directed to the Citadel, a place which, I do not +scruple to say, was to me quite as interesting as any of the monuments +of ancient art that Egypt contains. The remains of ages long past, and +whose history is involved in unfathomable obscurity, excite our wonder +and admiration, and fill us with an almost painful curiosity to draw +aside the veil which time has thrown around them, and to learn secrets +that all the learning of man has hitherto been unable to unfold. +The citadel of Cairo, on the contrary, has been the theatre of +comparatively recent events; it is filled with recollections of the +hero whose exploits, narrated by the most eloquent pens, have charmed +us in our childhood, and still continue to excite interest in our +breasts--the Sultan Saladin. Here are the remains of a palace which he +once inhabited, and here is a well which bears his name. Who could sit +under the broken pillars of that roofless palace, or drink the water +from the deep recesses of that well, without allowing their thoughts +to wander back to the days of the Crusades, those chivalric times, in +which love, and war, and religion, swayed the hearts and the actions +of men; when all that was honoured and coveted was to be found in a +soldier of the cross, and when half-frantic enthusiasts, pursuing the +vainest of hopes, the recovery of the Holy Land, brought away with +them what they did not go to seek, the arts, and learning, and science +of the East! The janissary, who was with us, pointed out the direction +in which Damietta now stands, and I was instantly filled with a desire +to see Damietta, of which I had heard and read so much. + +The most exciting romance of Oriental history is to be found amid the +deserts that surround Egypt; and even if the most spirit-stirring tale +of all, the _Talisman_, had not been written, the scenes in which our +own lion-hearted Richard figured, and which witnessed the exploits of +the Templars and the knights of St. John of Jerusalem, could not fail +to create the highest degree of pleasurable feeling in minds capable +of enjoying such brilliant reveries of the past. The Citadel of Cairo +is also fraught with the recollections of an event which startled +all Europe within the memory of many of the present generation--the +massacre of the Mamelukes. We were shown the broken cleft in the +wall from which the only one of the devoted men who escaped urged his +gallant horse; it was, indeed, a fearful leap, and we gazed upon, +the spot and thought of the carnage of that dreadful hour with an +involuntary shudder. + +The Citadel of Cairo has less the air of a regular fortification than +any place of arms I ever recollect to have entered; it is, however, +I believe, exceedingly strong by nature, the situation being very +commanding. I regretted that I could not look upon these things with +a professional eye, and that I had no military authority at hand to +refer to. Near to the ruins of Saladin's palace, the Pasha is now +constructing a mosque, which, when finished, will be one of the most +splendid temples of the kind in all the Moslem land. It is to be lined +and faced with marble, very elegantly carved, but it will take three +years to complete it, and should any circumstances occur to delay the +work during the lifetime of the present ruler of Egypt, the chances +seem much in favour of its never being completed at all. Mounting on +the embrasure of one of the guns, I feasted my eyes upon one of the +finest and most interesting views I had ever beheld. The city, with +its minarets, towers, kiosks, and stately palm-trees, lay at my feet, +displaying, by its extent, the solidity, loftiness, and magnificence +of its buildings, its title to the proud name of "Grand Cairo." +Beyond, in one wide flood of silver, flowed the Nile, extending far as +the eye could reach along a plain verdant with its fertilizing waters. +To the left, the tombs of the caliphs spread themselves over a desert +waste, looking, indeed, like a city of the dead. These monuments, +though not equalling in size and grandeur the tombs which we find in +India, are very striking; they are for the most part surmounted by +cupolas, raised upon lofty pillars, with the spaces open between. Upon +one of these buildings we were shown a vessel in the form of a boat, +which upon a certain festival is filled with grain and water, for the +service of the birds. + +The Pyramids, which rise beyond the City of Tombs, are not seen to +advantage from this point, an intervening ridge of sand cutting off +the bases, and presenting the pinnacles only to view; but the whole of +the landscape, under the clear bright atmosphere of an Egyptian sky, +is of so exquisite a nature, that the eye can never tire of it, and +had I been detained as a prisoner in the Pasha's dominions, I might +have become reconciled to my fate, had I been confined in a situation +which commanded this splendid prospect. + +About the middle of the day we again sallied forth, the streets of +Cairo being so narrow that the sun is completely shut out, and shade +thus afforded at noon. The air was not unpleasantly warm, and we +suffered no inconvenience, excepting from the crowd. Mounted upon +donkeys, we pushed our way through a dense throng, thrusting aside +loaded camels, which scarcely allowed us room to pass, and coming +into the closest contact with all sorts of people. The perusal of +Mr. Lane's book had given me a very vivid idea of the interior of the +city, though I was scarcely prepared to mingle thus intimately with +its busy multitude. + +We had some shopping to execute, or rather we had to pay for some +purchases made by Mohammed for us in the morning, and to return that +portion of the goods sent for inspection that we did not intend to +keep. We liked the appearance of the shops, which, in all cases of the +more respectable kind, were well stocked, whole streets being devoted +to the sale of one particular branch of merchandize. A long avenue +was occupied by saddlers and the sellers of horse-furniture; another +displayed nothing but woollen cloths; a third was devoted to weapons +of every description, &c. &c. The wax-chandlers reminded me very much +of those in England, being decorated in a similar manner, while the +display of goods everywhere was much greater than I had ever seen in +Eastern cities, in which for the most part merchandize of the best +description is hidden in warehouses, and not to be found without deep +research. + +The greater number of the streets are covered in with matting in +rather a dilapidated state, and having many holes and crevices for the +admission of air; this gives to the whole a ragged appearance, and we +were told that the Pasha had determined not to allow in future awnings +of these frail and unsightly materials. The Frank quarter, which is +much better contrived, is the model for subsequent erections. This +avenue has a roof of wood sufficiently high to allow of a free +circulation of air, and having apertures, at regular distances near +the top, to admit the light. The streets in this part of Cairo are +wider than usual, and the shops appear to be large and convenient. + +All sorts of European manufactures are to be found here, for the most +part at reasonable prices. The gentlemen who proposed to cross the +desert purchased Leghorn hats of very good quality, and admirably +adapted, from their size, lightness, and durability, for Indian wear. +Wearied, at length, with the confusion and bustle of the streets, +we took again the road to the Citadel, being exceedingly desirous to +feast our eyes with the sunset view. + +After gazing long and earnestly upon a scene which, once beheld, can +never be forgotten, we gladly accepted the offer of Mohammed to +show us into the interior of the Pasha's palace, a large irregular +building, having no great pretensions to architectural beauty, and +mingling rather oddly the European with the Oriental style. Ascending +a broad flight of steps, we passed through a large kind of guard-room +to the state-apartments. These were of rather a singular description, +but handsome and well adapted to the climate. A third portion, +consisting of the front and part of the two sides of each room, was +entirely composed of windows, opening a few feet from the ground, +and having a divan running round, furnished in the usual manner with +pillows at the back. The windows of some of these apartments opened +upon gardens, laid out in the English taste and full of English +flowers; others commanded the finest prospects of the city and the +open space below. Round these rooms, at the top, forming a sort +of cornice, were pictures in compartments or panels, one series +consisting of views of the Pasha's palaces and gardens, another of the +vessels of war which belong to him, and more especially his favourite +steam-boat, of which there are many delineations. There is nothing +that more strongly exhibits the freedom with which Mehemet Ali has +thrown off the prejudices of the Moslem religion, than his permitting, +contrary to its established principles, the representation of objects +natural and artificial, which, both in painting and sculpture, is +strictly forbidden. Much cannot be said for the execution of these +pictures, which seem to have been the work of a native artist; but +they become exceedingly interesting as proofs of the decline of a +religion so completely opposed to the spread of knowledge, and to all +improvement in the moral condition of its followers. + +The furniture in the Pasha's palace, though in a great measure limited +to carpets and cushions, is very handsome. The divans are covered with +rich brocade, figured satin, damask, or cut velvet. The attendants +drew aside, with great pride, the curtains which concealed the +looking-glasses, evidently fancying that we had never beheld mirrors +of such magnitude in our lives. I observed that the chandeliers in +some of the apartments did not match each other, but the whole was +very creditable to the taste and spirit of the owner. Below them was a +handsome apartment entirely lined with marble, and apparently designed +as a retreat for the hot weather, the floor being divided into two +parts--the one ascended by a step, in which the family might repose +upon cushions; the other scooped into basins, with a fountain to play +in the centre: the water either had not as yet been laid on, or the +season did not render it necessary. Near to this apartment was +the Pasha's bed-chamber, a fine room, also lined with marble, and +containing a fire-place, which in the warm weather revolved upon a +pivot, and was concealed in a recess made on purpose in the wall. The +bathing-rooms, close at hand, were of the most beautiful description, +the principal apartment and the antechamber having roofs which might +serve as models for all erections of the kind. These were fretted +in small compartments, light being admitted by a thick piece of +ground-glass in the centre of each, thus securing the utmost privacy, +together with one of the most beautiful methods of lighting possible. + +While we were still sitting in the Pasha's palace, the military band +of the garrison began to play upon the parade-ground immediately +below. Mohammed, who seemed to be quite at home, conducted us to an +apartment which overlooked this space, opened one of the windows, and +requested us to seat ourselves upon the cushions, where we remained +for some time, listening to the well-known French airs played in the +court-yard of the palace of a Turkish prince! The band was not a +very large one, but the performers had been well-taught, and the +wind-instruments produced in such a situation a very animating effect. +They marched up and down the parade-ground, occasionally relieved by +the drums and fifes also playing French music. The performers were +clothed in white, like the men belonging to the ranks, and had the +same soiled appearance, it being impossible to keep white garments +pure in the dust of Egyptian cities. + +The sun was now completely down, and we returned to our hotel, where, +to our great joy, we found our two female friends, who had not been +able to reach Boulak until many hours after our landing. We +had ordered dinner at seven o'clock, in the hope that our +fellow-passengers in the steamer would come up, and according to our +calculations, several dropped in. The possibility of getting to the +Pyramids was again discussed; the greater number of the gentlemen +determined at least to try, but we thought it best to avoid all danger +of missing the _Berenice_, and the ladies, adhering to their original +intention, determined to cross the desert together. We passed a most +agreeable evening, telling over our voyage up the Nile, and upon +retiring to my chamber, I regretted that it would be the last I should +for some time spend in Cairo. + +Nothing can be more quiet than the nights in a city where all the +inhabitants retire after dark to their own homes, the streets being +perambulated by few persons, and those of the soberest description; +but with the sun, a scene of bustle and noise ensues, which +effectually prevents repose. The windows of my apartment looked out +upon a narrow street, in which the ground-floors were, as it is usual, +composed of shops, while several persons, having vegetables or grain +to sell, were seated upon the ground. The hum of human voices, +the grunting of the camels, and the braying of donkeys, kept up an +incessant din, and therefore some minutes elapsed before my attention +was attracted by a wordy war which took place beneath my window. +Hastily arraying myself in my dressing-gown, and looking out, I saw a +man and woman engaged in some vehement discussion, but whether caused +by a dispute or not, I could not at first decide. They both belonged +to the lower class, and the woman was meanly dressed in a blue +garment, with a hood of the same over her head, her face being +concealed by one of those hideous narrow black veils, fastened across +under the eyes, which always reminded me of the proboscis of an +elephant. Her hands were clasped upon the arms of the man just above +the elbow, who held her in the same manner, and several people were +endeavouring to part them, as they struggled much in the same manner +which prevails in a melodrame, when the hero and heroine are about +to be separated by main force. I thought it, therefore, probable that +they were a loving couple, about to be torn asunder by the myrmidons +of the law. Presently, however, I was set right upon this point, for +the man, seizing a kind of whip, which is generally carried in Cairo, +and flogging off his friends, dashed the poor creature on the ground, +and inflicted several severe strokes upon her prostrate body, not one +of the by-standers attempting to prevent him. The woman, screaming +fearfully, jumped up, and seizing him again, as if determined to gain +her point, whatever it might be, poured forth a volley of words, and +again the man threw her upon the ground and beat her most cruelly, the +spectators remaining, as before, quite passive, and allowing him to +wreak his full vengeance upon her. + +Had I been dressed, or could I have made my way readily into the +street, I should have certainly gone down to interpose, for never did +I witness any scene so horrible, or one I so earnestly desired to +put an end to. At length, though the pertinacity of the woman was +astonishing, when exhausted by blows, she lay fainting on the ground, +the man went his way. The spectators, and there were many, who looked +on without any attempt to rescue this poor creature from her savage +assailant, now raised her from the earth. The whole of this time, the +veil she wore was never for a moment displaced, and but for the brutal +nature of the scene, it would have been eminently ridiculous in the +eyes of a stranger. After crying and moaning for some time, in the +arms of her supporters, the woman, whom I now found to be a vender of +vegetables in the street, told her sad tale to all the passers-by +of her acquaintance, with many tears and much gesticulation, but at +length seated herself quietly down by her baskets, though every bone +in her body must have ached from the severe beating she had received. +This appeared to me to be a scene for the interference of the police, +who, however, do not appear to trouble themselves about the protection +of people who may be assaulted in the street. + +I afterwards saw a drunken Englishman, an officer of the Indian +army, I am sorry to say, beat several natives of Cairo, with whom +he happened to come in contact in the crowd, in the most brutal and +unprovoked manner, and yet no notice was taken, and no complaint +made. It was certainly something very unexpected to me to see a Frank +Christian maltreating the Moslem inhabitants of a Moslem city in which +he was a stranger, and I regretted exceedingly that the perpetrator +of acts, which brought disgrace upon his character and country, should +have been an Englishman, or should have escaped punishment. No sooner +have we been permitted to traverse a country in which formerly it was +dangerous to appear openly as a Christian, than we abuse the privilege +thus granted by outrages on its most peaceable inhabitants. I regret +to be obliged to add, that it is but too commonly the habit, of +Englishmen to beat the boat-men, donkey-men, and others of the poorer +class, whom they may engage in their service. They justify this +cowardly practice--cowardly, because the poor creatures can gain no +redress--by declaring that there is no possibility of getting them to +stir excepting by means of the whip; but, in most cases, all that I +witnessed, they were not at the trouble of trying fairer methods: +at once enforcing their commands by blows. The comments made by the +janissary and our own servant upon those who were guilty of such +wanton brutality showed the feeling which it elicited; and when upon +one occasion Miss E. and myself interposed, declaring that we would +not allow any person in our service to be beaten, they told us not to +be alarmed, for that the rais (captain of the boat), who was an Arab, +would not put up with ill-treatment, but had threatened to go on shore +at the next village with all his men. + +An English gentleman, long resident in Cairo, had done me the honour +to call upon me on the day after my arrival, and had invited me to +come to his house, to see some mummies and other curiosities he had +collected. Accompanied by two of my female friends, and escorted by a +gentleman who was well acquainted with the topography of the city, +we set out on foot, traversing blind alleys and dark lanes, and thus +obtaining a better idea of the intricacies of the place than we could +possibly have gained by any other means. Sometimes we passed under +covered ways perfectly dark, which I trod, not without fear of +arousing some noxious animal; then we came to narrow avenues, between +the backs of high stone houses, occasionally emerging into small +quadrangles, having a single tree in one corner. We passed a house +inhabited by one of the superior description of Frank residents, +and we knew that it must be tenanted by a European by the handsome +curtains and other furniture displayed through its open windows. +Turning into a street, for the very narrow lanes led chiefly along +the backs of houses, we looked into the lower apartments, the doors of +which were usually unclosed, and here we saw the men at their +ordinary occupations, and were made acquainted with their domestic +arrangements. At length we arrived at a court, which displayed a door +and a flight of steps at the corner. Upon knocking, we were admitted +by an Egyptian servant, who showed us up stairs into a room, where we +found the master of the house seated upon one of the low stools which +serve as the support of the dinner-trays in Egypt, the only other +furniture that the room contained being a table, and the customary +divan, which extended all round. Coffee was brought in, served in +small China cups; but all the coffee made in Egypt was too like the +Nile mud for me to taste, and warm and fatigued with a walk through +places from which the fresh air was excluded, I felt myself unequal +to make the trial now. + +Our friend's collection of antiquities appeared to be very valuable; +but I had been at the opening of a mummy-case before, and though +interested by the different articles which his researches had brought +to light, was more so in the examination of his house. It was very +oddly arranged, according to the ideas formed in Europe, many of the +rooms looking like lanthorns, in consequence of their having windows +on the stairs and passages, as well as to the street. This was +probably caused by a desire to secure a free circulation of air, but +it at the same time destroyed every idea of privacy, and therefore +looked exceedingly uncomfortable. There were glass-windows to several +of the apartments, but the house exhibited considerable quantities of +that wooden trellice-work, represented in Mr. Lane's book. Nothing, +indeed, can be more accurate than his descriptions; the English +inhabitants of Cairo say that, reading it upon the spot, they cannot +detect a single error; the designs are equally faithful, and those who +study the work carefully may acquire the most correct notion of the +city and its inhabitants. + +The apartments at the top of the house opened, as usual, upon a rather +extensive terrace or court, but the surrounding wall was too high to +admit of any prospect; both here, and in a similar place at our hotel, +persons walking about could neither see their neighbours nor be seen +by them. We, therefore, gained nothing by climbing so high, and I was +disappointed at not obtaining any view of the city. I tried in each +place to make acquaintance with an Egyptian cat, but I found the +animal too shy. I noticed several, which seemed to be domestic pets; +they were fine-looking creatures of the kind, and I fancied larger +than the common English cat, but the difference, if existing at all, +was very slight. I returned home, so much fatigued with my walk, as +to be unable to go out again, especially as we were to start at four +o'clock for the desert. + +Two of the ladies of the party, not having completed their purchases +at the bazaars, went out upon a shopping excursion, and passing near +the Nubian slave-market, were induced to enter. Christians are not +admitted to the place in which Circassian women are sold, and can +only obtain entrance by assuming the Turkish dress and character. My +friends were highly interested in one woman, who sat apart from the +rest, apparently plunged into the deepest melancholy; the others +manifested little sorrow at their condition, which was not, perhaps, +in reality, changed for the worse: all eagerly scrambled for some +pieces of money which the visitors threw amongst them, and the +sight was altogether too painful for Christian ladies to desire to +contemplate long. + +They were much more amused by some gipsies, who were anxious to show +their skill in the occult science. Upon the morning after our arrival, +Miss E., who was always the first upon the alert, accepted the escort +of a gentleman, who conducted her to a neighbouring shop; while making +some purchases, a gipsy came and seated herself opposite, and by way +of showing her skill, remarked that the lady was a stranger to Cairo, +and had a companion, also of her own sex, who pretended to be a +friend, but who would prove treacherous. + +As we had ridden through the fair together on the preceding evening, +it did not require any great effort of art to discover that two Frank +ladies had arrived at Cairo; but in speaking of treachery, the gipsy +evidently wished to pique the curiosity of my friend, and tempt her to +make further inquiry. Much to my regret, she did not take any notice +of the fortune-teller, whose words had been repeated by the gentleman +who had accompanied her, and who was well acquainted with the language +in which they were spoken. I should like to have had a specimen of the +talents of a modern scion of this race, in the country in which the +learned have decided that the tribe, now spread over the greater part +of the world, originated. + +The arrival of the _Berenice_ at Suez had been reported the evening +before, and the mails had been brought to Cairo in the coarse of +the night. All was, therefore, bustle and confusion in our hotel; +gentlemen hourly arriving from the Nile, where they had been delayed +by squalls and contrary winds, or snatching a hasty meal before they +posted off to the Pyramids. Our camels and donkeys had been laden +and despatched to the outskirts of the city, to which we were to be +conveyed in a carriage. + +I had observed in the court-yard of the hotel an English-built +equipage, of the britschka fashion, with a dark-coloured hood, for, +whatever might have been its original tint, it had assumed the +common hue of Egypt; and I found that two spirited horses were to be +harnessed to the vehicle, which was dragged out into the street for +our accommodation. A gentleman volunteered his services as coachman, +promising that he would drive carefully, and we accordingly got in, +a party of four, taking the baby along with us. Although the horses +kicked and plunged a little, I did not fancy that we could be in any +danger, as it was impossible for them to run away with us through +streets so narrow as scarcely to be passable, neither could we have +very easily been upset. I, therefore, hoped to have enjoyed the drive +amazingly, as it promised to afford me a better opportunity than I +had hitherto possessed of seeing Cairo, seated at my ease, instead +of pushing and jostling through the crowd either on foot or upon +a donkey. The gentleman, however, bent upon showing off, would not +listen to our entreaties that the grooms should lead the horses, but +dashed along, regardless of the danger to the foot-passengers, or the +damage that the donkeys might sustain. + +So long as we proceeded slowly, the drive was very agreeable, since +it enabled me to observe the effect produced by our party upon the +spectators. Many sat with the utmost gravity in their shops, scarcely +deigning to cast their eyes upon what must certainly have been a +novel sight; others manifested much more curiosity, and seemed to be +infinitely amused, while heads put out of the upper windows showed +that we attracted some attention. My enjoyment was destined to be very +brief, for in a short time our coachman, heedless of the mischief that +might ensue, drove rapidly forward, upsetting and damaging every thing +that came in his way. In vain did we scream and implore; he declared +that it was the fault of the people, who would not remove themselves +out of danger; but as we had no _avant-courrier_ to clear the road +before us, and our carriage came very suddenly upon many persons, I +do not see how they could have managed to escape. At length, we drove +over an unfortunate donkey, which was pulled down by a piece of iron +sticking from the carriage, and thus becoming entangled in the load he +bore. I fear that the animal was injured, for the poor boy who drove +him cried bitterly, and though we (that is, the ladies of the party) +would gladly have remunerated him for the damage he might have +sustained, neither time nor opportunity was permitted for this act of +justice. On we drove, every moment expecting to be flung out against +the walls, as the carriage turned round the corners of streets placed +at right angles to each other. At length, we succeeded in our wish to +have the grooms at the horses' heads, and without further accident, +though rendered as nervous as possible, passed through the gate of +the city. We drove forward now without any obstacle through the +Necropolis, or City of Tombs, before-mentioned, and I regretted +much that we had not left Cairo at an earlier hour, which would have +permitted us to examine the interiors. + +The desert comes up to the very walls of Cairo, and these tombs rise +from a plain of bare sand. I observed some gardens and cultivated +places stretching out into the wilderness, no intermediate state +occurring between the garden and the arid waste in which vegetation +suddenly ceased. We might have performed the whole journey across the +desert in the carriage which had brought us thus far, but as one of +the ladies was a little nervous, and moreover thought the road too +rough, I readily agreed to choose another mode of conveyance; in fact, +I wished particularly to proceed leisurely to Suez, and in the manner +in which travellers had hitherto been conveyed. + +The mighty changes which are now effecting in Egypt, should nothing +occur to check their progress, will soon render the track to India so +completely beaten, and so deeply worn by wheels, that I felt anxious +to take advantage of the opportunity now offered to traverse the +desert in a more primitive way. I disliked the idea of hurrying +through a scene replete with so many interesting recollections. I had +commenced reading the _Arabian Nights' Entertainment_ at the age of +five years; since which period, I had read them over and over again +at every opportunity, finishing with the last published number of the +translation by Mr. Lane. This study had given me a strong taste for +every thing relating to the East, and Arabia especially. I trust that +I am not less familiar with the writings of the Old and New Testament, +and consequently it may easily be imagined that I should not find +three days in the desert tedious, and that I felt anxious to enjoy to +the uttermost the reveries which it could not fail to suggest. + +In parting with our friend and the carriage, he declared that he +would indemnify himself for the constraint we had placed upon him, by +driving over two or three people at least. Fortunately, his desire +of showing off was displayed too soon; we heard, and rejoiced at +the tidings, that he upset the carriage before he got to the gate of +Cairo. Two or three lives are lost, it is said, whenever the Pasha, +who drives furiously, traverses the city in a European equipage. That +he should not trouble himself about so mean a thing as the life or +limb of a subject, may not be wonderful; but that he should permit +Frank strangers to endanger both, seems unaccountable. + +No Anglo-Indian resident in either of the three presidencies thinks +of driving a wheel-carriage through streets never intended for +such conveyances. In visiting Benares, Patna, or any other of the +celebrated native cities of India, elephants, horses, palanquins, +or some other vehicle adapted for the occasion, are chosen. It, +therefore, appears to be the more extraordinary that English people, +who are certainly living upon sufferance in Egypt, should thus +recklessly expose the inhabitants to danger, to which they are not +subjected by any of their own people under the rank of princes. +Nothing can be more agreeable or safe than a drive across the desert, +and probably the time is speedily approaching in which the rich +inhabitants of Cairo will indulge, as they do at Alexandria, in the +luxury of English carriages, and for this purpose, the streets and +open spaces best adapted for driving will be improved and widened. + +I cannot take leave of Cairo without paying the tribute due to the +manner in which the streets are kept. In passing along the narrow +lanes and avenues before-mentioned, not one of the senses was shocked; +dust, of course, there is every where, but nothing worse to be seen at +least; and the sight and smell were not offended, as at Paris or even +in London, when passing through the by-ways of either. Altogether, if +I may venture to pronounce an opinion, after so short a residence, I +should say that, if our peaceful relations with Egypt should continue +to be kept up, in no place will travellers be better received or +entertained than in Cairo. + + + + +CHAPTER VI. + + * * * * * + +THE DESERT. + + * * * * * + + Equipage for crossing the Desert--Donkey-chairs--Sense of calmness and + tranquillity on entering the Desert--Nothing dismal in its + aspect--The Travellers' Bungalow--Inconvenient construction of these + buildings--Kafila of the Governor of Jiddah and his Lady--Their + Equipage--Bedouins--Impositions practised on Travellers--Desert + Travelling not disagreeable--Report of the sailing of the + Steamer--Frequency of false reports--Ease with which an infant of + the party bore the journey--A wheeled carriage crossing the + Desert--Parties of Passengers from Suez encountered--One of Mr. Hill's + tilted Caravans--Difficulty of procuring water at the Travellers' + Bungalow--A night in the Desert--Magnificent sunrise--First sight + of the Red Sea and the Town of Suez--Miserable appearance of the + latter--Engagement of a Passage to Bombay. + + +We found the equipages in which we were to cross the desert waiting +for us at the City of Tombs. They consisted of donkey-chairs, one +being provided for each of the females of the party, while my +friend Miss E. had also an extra donkey, with a saddle, to ride upon +occasionally. Nothing could be more comfortable than these vehicles; +a common arm-chair was fastened into a sort of wooden tray, which +projected in front about a foot, thereby enabling the passenger to +carry a small basket or other package; the chairs were then slung by +the arms to long bamboos, one upon either side, and these, by means +of ropes or straps placed across, were fastened upon the backs +of donkeys, one in front, the other, behind. Five long and narrow +vehicles of this kind, running across the desert, made a sufficiently +droll and singular appearance, and we did nothing but admire each +other as we went along. The movement was delightfully easy, and the +donkeys, though not travelling at a quick pace, got on very well. Our +cavalcade consisted besides of two stout donkeys, which carried the +beds and carpet-bags of the whole party, thus enabling us to send the +camels a-head: the three men-servants were also mounted upon donkeys, +and there were three or four spare ones, in case any of the others +should knock up upon the road. In this particular it is proper to +say that we were cheated, for had such an accident occurred, the +extra-animals were so weak and inefficient, that they could not have +supplied the places of any of those in use. There were eight or ten +donkey-men, and a boy; the latter generally contrived to ride, but the +others walked by the side of the equipages. + +In first striking into the desert, we all enjoyed a most delightful +feeling of repose; every thing around appeared to be so calm +and tranquil, that, especially after encountering the noises and +multitudes of a large and crowded city, it was soothing to the mind +thus to emerge from the haunts of men and wander through the vast +solitudes that spread their wastes before us. To me there was nothing +dismal in the aspect of the desert, nor was the view so boundless as I +had expected. + +In these wide plains, the fall of a few inches is sufficient to +diversify the prospect; there is always some gentle acclivity to be +surmounted, which cheats the sense with the expectation of finding +a novel scene beyond: the sand-hills in the distance also range +themselves in wild and fantastic forms, many appearing like +promontories jutting out into some noble harbour, to which the +traveller seems to be approaching. Nor were there wanting living +objects to animate the scene; our own little kafila was sufficiently +large and cheerful to banish every idea of dreariness, and we +encountered others much more picturesque. + +Soon after losing sight of the tombs, we came upon a party who +had bivouac'd for the night; the camels, unladen, were, with their +burthens, placed in a circle, and the people busily employed in +preparing their evening meal. Other evidences there were, however, to +show that the toils of the desert were but too frequently fatal to the +wretched beasts of burthen employed in traversing these barren wastes; +the whitened bones of camels and donkeys occurred so frequently, as to +serve to indicate the road. + +Our first stage was the shortest of the whole, and we came to the +rest-house, or travellers' bungalow, just as night closed in, and long +before I entertained any idea that we should have been able to reach +it, travelling as we did at an easy walk. The bungalow was not yet +completed, which we found rather an advantage, since it seems to +be exceedingly questionable whether the buildings erected for the +accommodation of travellers on the track to Suez will be habitable +even for a few hours in the course of another year. The funds of the +Steam-committee have been lamentably mismanaged in this instance. +However, there being no windows, we were enabled to enjoy the fresh +air, and the room we occupied, not having been long whitewashed, was +perfectly clean. + +Nothing can have been worse planned than the construction of these +houses. The only entrance is in front, down a narrow passage, open at +the top, and having apartments on either side, the two in front +being sleeping-rooms for travellers, with a kitchen and other offices +beyond, and at the back of all a stable, which occupies the whole +width of the building. The consequence is, that all the animals, biped +and quadruped, inhabiting the stable, must pass the traveller's +door, who is regaled with the smell proceeding from the said stable, +cook-rooms, &c.; all the insects they collect, and all the feathers +from the fowls slaughtered upon the spot; the plan being, when parties +arrive, to drive the unhappy creatures into the house, kill and pluck +them immediately. + +The persons in care of these bungalows are usually a mongrel sort of +Franks, who have no idea of cleanliness, and are regardless of the +most unsavoury odours. The furniture of the rooms consisted of a deal +table and a moveable divan of wicker-work, while another, formed of +the same solid materials as the house, spread in the Egyptian fashion +along one side. Upon this Miss E. and myself laid our beds; our two +other lady friends, with the infant and female attendant, occupying +the opposite apartment. We concluded the evening with tea and supper, +for which we were amply provided, having cold fowls, cold ham, +hard-boiled eggs, and bread and fruit in abundance. Wrapped up in our +dressing-gowns, we passed a very comfortable night, and in the morning +were able to procure the luxury of warm water for washing with. + +Having discovered that the people of the hotel at Cairo had forgotten +to put up some of the articles which we had ordered, and being afraid +that our supplies might fail, we had sent Mohammed back for them. He +did not rejoin us until eight o'clock the following morning, just +as we had begun to grow uneasy about him; it appeared that, although +apparently well acquainted with the desert, having crossed it many +times, he had missed the track, and lost his way, and after wandering +about all night, was glad to meet with a man, whom he engaged as a +guide. The poor fellow was much exhausted, but had not omitted to +bring us a bottle of fresh milk for our breakfast. We desired him to +get some tea for himself, and he soon recovered; his spirits never +forsaking him. + +In consequence of these delays, it was rather late, past nine o'clock, +before we set forward. I had provided myself with a pair of crape +spectacles and a double veil, but I speedily discarded both; the crape +fretted my eye-lashes, and would have produced a greater degree of +irritation than the sand. A much better kind are those of wire, which +tie round the head with a ribbon, and take in the whole eye. Though +the sun was rather warm, its heat was tempered by a fresh cold air, +which blew across the desert, though not strongly enough to lift the +sand; we, therefore, travelled with much less inconvenience than is +sustained upon a turnpike-road in England in dusty weather. I could +not endure to mar the prospect by looking at it through a veil, and +found my parasol quite sufficient protection against the rays of the +sun. + +The kafila, which we had passed the preceding evening, overtook us +soon after we started. It consisted of a long train of camels, and +belonged to the native governor of Jiddah, who was proceeding to that +place with, his wife and family, a native vessel being in waiting +at Suez to take him down the Red Sea. We saw several females wrapped +closely from head to foot in long blue garments, mounted upon these +camels. The governor's wife travelled in a sort of cage, which I +recognised immediately, from the description in Anastatius. This +vehicle is formed of two rude kinds of sophas, or what in English +country phrase would be called settles, canopied overhead, and with a +resting place for the feet. They are sometimes separated, and slung on +either side of a camel; at other times joined together, and placed on +the top, with a curtain or cloth lining, to protect the inmates from +the sun, and secure the privacy so necessary for a Mohammedan lady. +The height of the camels with their lading, and this cage on +the summit of all, give an extraordinary and almost supernatural +appearance to the animal as he plods along, his head nodding, and his +whole body moving in a strange ungainly manner. + +Occasionally we saw a small party of Bedouins, easily distinguished by +the fierce countenances glaring from beneath the large rolls of cloth +twisted over their turbans, and round their throats, leaving nothing +besides flashing eyes, a strongly developed nose, and a bushy beard, +to be seen. One or two, superior to the rest, were handsomely +dressed, armed to the teeth, and rode camels well-groomed and richly +caparisoned; wild-looking warriors, whom it would not have been +agreeable to meet were the country in a less tranquil state. + +To the present ruler of Egypt we certainly owe the security now +enjoyed in passing the desert; a party of ladies, having only three +servants and a few donkey-drivers, required no other protection, +though our beds, dressing-cases, and carpet-bags, to say nothing of +the camels laden with trunks and portmanteaus a-head, must have been +rather tempting to robbers by profession. The Pasha is the only +person who has hitherto been able to oblige the Sheikhs to respect the +property of those travellers not strong enough to protect themselves +from outrage. It is said that occasionally these Bedouins, when +desirous of obtaining water, make no scruple of helping themselves to +the supplies at the bungalows; the will, therefore, is not wanting to +commit more serious depredations. Consequently, in maintaining a good +understanding with Egypt, we must likewise endeavour to render its +sovereign strong enough to keep the neighbouring tribes in awe. + +Having made a slight refection on the road, of hard-boiled eggs, +bread, grapes, and apples, we came up at mid-day to a rest-house, +where it was determined we should remain for an hour or two, to water +the donkeys, and afford them needful repose, while we enjoyed a more +substantial luncheon. Our companions were so well satisfied with the +management of Mohammed, who conducted the whole line of march, that +they sent their Egyptian servant forward to order our dinner at the +resting-place for the night. We found, however, that advantage had +been taken of Mohammed's absence the preceding evening, and of the +hurry of the morning's departure, to send back some of the animals we +had engaged and paid for, and to substitute others so weak as to be +perfectly useless. We were likewise cheated with regard to the water; +we were told that the camel bearing the skins, for which we had paid +at Cairo, had been taken by mistake by two gentlemen travelling in +advance, and as we could not allow the poor animals to suffer, we of +course purchased water for them. This was no doubt an imposition, but +one for which, under the circumstances, we had no remedy. + +Upon reaching the bungalow, we again came up with the kafila that we +had seen twice before; the wife of the governor of Jiddah, with +her women, vacated the apartment into which we were shown, when we +arrived; but her husband sent a message, requesting that we would +permit her to occupy another, which was empty. We were but too happy +to comply, and should have been glad to have obtained a personal +interview; but having no interpreter excepting Mohammed, who would +not have been admitted to the conference, we did not like to make the +attempt. From the glance which we obtained of the lady, she seemed +to be very diminutive; nothing beyond height and size could be +distinguishable under the blue envelope she wore, in common with her +women: some of the latter occasionally unveiled their faces, which +were certainly not very attractive; but others, probably those who +were younger and handsomer, kept their features closely shrouded. + +Again betaking ourselves to our conveyances, we launched forth into +the desert, enjoying it as much the second day as we had done the +first. I entertained a hope of seeing some of the beautiful gazelles, +for which Arabia is famous; but not one appeared. A pair of birds +occasionally skimmed over the desert, at a short distance from +its surface; but those were the only specimens of wild animals we +encountered. The skeletons of camels occurred as frequently as before; +many nearly entire, others with their bones scattered abroad, but +whether borne by the winds, or by some savage beast, we could not +learn. Neither could we discover whether the deaths of these poor +animals had been recent or not; for so short a time only is required +in Eastern countries for the insects to anatomize any animal that +may fall in their way, that even supposing that jackalls and hyaenas +should not be attracted to the spot, the ants would make quick work +even of so large a creature as a camel. + +There were hills in the back ground, which might probably shelter +vultures, kites, and the family of quadrupeds that feed upon offal, +and much did I desire to mount a high trotting camel, and take a +scamper amongst these hills--obliged to content myself with jogging +soberly on with my party, I was fain to find amusement in the +contemplation of a cavalcade, the like of which will probably not +be often seen again. Our five vehicles sometimes trotted abreast, +affording us an opportunity of conversing with each other; but more +frequently they would spread themselves all over the plain, the guides +allowing their beasts to take their own way, provided they moved +straight forward. Occasionally, a spare donkey, or one carrying the +baggage, would stray off in an oblique direction, and then the drivers +were compelled to make a wide detour to bring them in again. Once +or twice, the ropes slipped, and my chair came to the ground; +fortunately, it had not to fall far; or a donkey would stumble and +fall, but no serious accident occurred; and though one of the party, +being behind, and unable to procure assistance in righting the +carriage, was obliged to walk a mile or two, we were all speedily in +proper trim again. Towards evening, the easy motion of the chair, and +the inclination I felt to close my eyes, after staring about all day, +caused me to fall asleep; and again, much sooner than I had expected, +I found myself at the place of our destination. + +Either owing to a want of funds, or to some misunderstanding, the +bungalow at this place, which is considered to be nearly midway across +the desert, had only been raised a few inches from the ground; there +were tents, however, for the accommodation of travellers, which we +infinitely preferred. The one we occupied was of sufficient size to +admit the whole party--that is, the four ladies, the baby, and its +female attendant. There were divans on either side, to spread the beds +upon, and the openings at each end made the whole delightfully cool. + +We found Ali, the servant sent on in the morning, very busy +superintending the cookery for dinner, which was performed in the open +air. The share of bread and apples given to me upon the road I now +bestowed upon my donkeys, not having reflected at the time that +the drivers would be glad of it; so the next day, when the usual +distributions were made, I gave the grapes, &c. to the donkey-men, +who stuffed them into their usual repository, the bosoms of their blue +shirts, and seemed very well pleased to get them. + +The adjoining tent was occupied by two gentlemen, passengers of the +_Berenice_; their servant, a European, brought to some of our people +the alarming intelligence that the steamers would leave Suez in the +course of a few hours, and that our utmost speed would scarcely permit +us to arrive in time. Distrusting this information, we sent to inquire +into its truth, and learned that no danger of the kind was to be +apprehended, as the steamer required repair, the engines being out of +order, and the coal having ignited twice on the voyage up the Red Sea. + +Whatever may be the cause, whether from sheer misconception or +an intention to mislead, it is almost impossible to rely upon any +intelligence given concerning the sailing of vessels and other +events, about which it would appear very possible to obtain authentic +information. From the time of our landing at Alexandria, we had been +tormented by reports which, if true, rendered it more than probable +that we should be too late for the steamer appointed to convey the +Government mails to Bombay. Not one of these reports turned out to be +correct, and those who acted upon them sustained much discomfort in +hurrying across the desert. + +We were, as usual, rather late the following morning; our dear little +play-thing, the baby, bore the journey wonderfully; but it seemed very +requisite that she should have good and unbroken sleep at night, and +we found so little inconvenience in travelling in the day-time, that +we could make no objection to an arrangement which contributed so much +to her health and comfort. It was delightful to see this lovely little +creature actually appearing to enjoy the scene as much as ourselves; +sometimes seated in the lap of her nurse, who travelled in a chair, +at others at the bottom of one of our chairs; then in the arms of +her male attendant, who rode a donkey, or in those of the donkey-men, +trudging on foot; she went to every body, crowing and laughing all the +time; and I mention her often, not only for the delight she afforded +us, but also to show how very easily infants at her tender age--she +was not more than seven months old--could be transported across the +desert. + +After breakfast, and just as we were about to start upon our day's +journey, we saw what must certainly be called a strange sight--a +wheeled carriage approaching our small encampment. It came along like +the wind, and proved to be a phaeton, double-bodied, that is, with a +driving-seat in front, with a European charioteer guiding a pair of +horses as the wheelers, while the leaders were camels, with an Arab +riding postillion. An English and a Parsee gentleman were inside, and +the carriage was scarcely in sight, before it had stopped in the midst +of us. The party had only been a few hours coming across. We hastily +exchanged intelligence; were told that the _Berenice_ had lost all +its speed, being reduced, in consequence of alterations made in the +dock-yard in Bombay, from twelve knots an hour to eight, and that the +engines had never worked well during the voyage up. + +During this day's journey, we met several parties, passengers of the +steamer, coming from Suez. One lady passed us in a donkey-chair, with +her daughter riding a donkey by the side; another group, consisting +of two ladies and several gentlemen, were all mounted upon camels, +and having large umbrellas over their heads, made an exceedingly odd +appearance, the peculiar gait of the camel causing them to rise and +fall in a very singular manner. At a distance, their round moving +summits looked like the umbrageous tops of trees, and we might fancy +as they approached, the lower portion being hidden by ridges of sand, +that "Birnam Wood was coming to Dunsinane." + +The monotony usually complained of in desert travelling cannot be very +strongly felt between Cairo and Suez, for though there is little else +but sand to be seen, yet it is so much broken and undulated, that +there is always some diversity of objects. The sand-hills now gave +place to rock, and it appeared as if many ranges of hills stretched +out both to the right and left of the plains we traversed; their crags +and peaks, piled one upon the other, and showing various colours, rich +browns and purples, as they stood in shade or sunshine. Greenish tints +assured us that vegetation was not quite so seamy upon these hills +as in the desert they skirted, which only showed at intervals a few +coarse plants, scarcely deserving the name. It has been said, that +there is only one tree between Cairo and Suez; but we certainly +saw several, though none of any size; that which is called, _par +excellence_, "the tree," affording a very poor idea of timber. + +We made a short rest, in the middle of the day, at a travellers' +bungalow; and just as we were leaving it, one of Mr. Hill's caravans +arrived--a tilted cart upon springs, and drawn by a pair of horses; +it contained a family, passengers by the _Berenice,_ consisting of a +gentleman and his wife, two children and a servant. We conversed with +them for a few minutes, and learned that they had not found the +road very rough, and that where it was heavy they added a camel as a +leader. + +At this place we found some difficulty in purchasing, water for +the donkeys; competition in the desert is not, as in other places, +beneficial to the traveller. By some understanding with the Steam +Committee, Mr. Hill has put his people into the bungalows; and they, +it appears, have orders not to sell water to persons who travel under +Mr. Waghorn's agency. If the original purpose of these houses was to +afford general accommodation, the shelter which cannot be refused +is rendered nugatory by withholding the supplies necessary for the +subsistence of men and cattle. We procured water at last; but every +thing attainable at these places is dear and bad. + +We arrived, at rather an early hour, at our halting place for the +night; and as we considered it to be desirable to get into Suez as +speedily as possible, we agreed to start by three o'clock on the +following morning. Just as we had finished our evening meal, three +gentlemen of our acquaintance, who had scrambled across the desert +from the Pyramids, came up, weary and wayworn, and as hungry as +possible. We put the best that we had before them, and then retired +to the opposite apartment. But in this place I found it impossible to +stay; there was no free circulation of air throughout the room, and +it had all the benefit of the smell from the stable and other +abominations. + +Leaving, therefore, my companions asleep, and wrapping myself up in +my shawl, I stole out into the passage, where there were several Arabs +lying about, and not without difficulty contrived to step between +them, and to unfasten the door which opened upon the desert. There +was no moon, but the stars gave sufficient light to render the scene +distinctly visible. A lamp gleamed from the window of the apartment +which I had quitted, and the camels, donkeys, and people belonging +to the united parties, formed themselves into very picturesque groups +upon the sand, constituting altogether a picture which could not fail +to excite many agreeable sensations. The whitened bones of animals +perishing from fatigue and thirst, while attempting to cross the arid +expanse, associated in our minds with privation, toil, and danger, +told too truly that these notions were not purely ideal; but here +was a scene of rest and repose which the desert had never before +presented; and mean and inconvenient as the building I contemplated +might be, its very existence in such a place seemed almost a marvel, +and the imagination, kindling at the sight, could scarcely set bounds +to its expectations for the future. In the present frame of my mind, +however, I was rather disturbed by the indications of change already +commenced, and still to increase. I had long desired to spend a night +alone upon the desert, and without wandering to a dangerous distance, +I placed a ridge of sand between my solitary station and the objects +which brought the busy world to view, and indulged in thoughts of +scenes and circumstances which happened long ago. + +According to the best authorities, we were in the track of the +Israelites, and in meditations suggested by this interesting portion +of Bible history, the time passed so rapidly, that I was surprised +when I found the people astir and preparing for our departure. My +garments were rather damp with the night-dews, for, having left some +of my friends sleeping upon my fur cloak, I had gone out more lightly +attired than perhaps was prudent. I was not, therefore, sorry to find +myself warmly wrapped up, and in my chair, in which I should have +slept very comfortably, had Hot the man who guided the donkeys taken +it into his head to quarrel with one of his comrades, and to bawl out +his grievances close to my ear. My wakefulness was, however, amply +repaid by the most glorious sunrise I ever witnessed. The sky had been +for some time obscured by clouds, which had gathered themselves in a +bank upon the Eastern horizon. The sun's rays started up at once, +like an imperial crown, above this bank, and as they darted their +glittering spears, for such they seemed, along the heavens, the +clouds, dispersing, formed into a mighty arch, their edges becoming +golden; while below all was one flush of crimson light. Neither at sea +nor on land had I ever witnessed any thing so magnificent as this, +and those who desire to see the god of day rise in the fulness of his +majesty must make a pilgrimage to the desert. + +We made no stay at the rest-house, which we reached about nine o'clock +in the morning; and here, for the last time, we saw the governor of +Jiddah and his party, winding along at some distance, and giving life +and character to the desert. The fantastic appearance of the hills +increased as we advanced; the slightest stretch of fancy was alone +necessary to transform many into fortresses and towers, and at length +a bright glitter at a distance revealed the Red Sea. The sun gleaming +upon its waters shewed them like a mirror, and soon afterwards the +appearance of some low buildings indicated the town of Suez. + +I happened to be in advance of the party, under the conduct of one of +the gentlemen who had joined us on the preceding evening; I therefore +directed Mohammed to go forward, to announce our approach; and either +the sight of the Red Sea, or their eagerness to reach a well-known +spring of water, induced my donkeys to gallop along the road with me; +a fortunate circumstance, as the day was beginning to be very sultry, +and I felt that I should enjoy the shelter and repose of a habitation. +As we went along, indications of the new power, which had already +effected the easy transit of the desert, were visible in small patches +of coal, scattered upon the sand; presently we saw a dark nondescript +object, that did not look at all like the abode of men, civilized +or uncivilized; and yet, from the group hovering about an aperture, +seemed to be tenanted by human beings. This proved to be an old +boiler, formerly belonging to a steam-vessel, and appearing, indeed, +as if some black and shapeless hulk had been cast on shore. The well, +which had attracted my donkeys, was very picturesque; the water flowed +into a large stone trough, or rather basin, beneath the walls of a +castellated edifice, pierced with many small windows, and apparently +in a very dilapidated state. Those melancholy _memento moris,_ which +had tracked our whole progress through the desert, were to be seen +in the immediate vicinity of this well. The skeletons of five or six +camels lay in a group within a few yards of the haven which they had +doubtless toiled anxiously, though so vainly, to reach. I never could +look upon the bones of these poor animals without a painful feeling, +and in the hope that European skill and science may yet bring forward +those hidden waters which would disarm the desert of its terrors. +It is said that the experiment of boring has been tried, and failed, +between Suez and Cairo, but that it succeeded in the great desert; +some other method, perhaps, may be found, if the project of bringing +water from the hills, by means of aqueducts, should be too expensive. +We heard this plan talked of at the bungalow, but I fear that, in the +present state of Egypt, it is very chimerical. + +This was now our fourth day upon the desert, and we had not sustained +the smallest inconvenience; the heat, even at noon, being very +bearable, and the sand not in the least degree troublesome. Doubtless, +at a less favourable period of the year, both would prove difficult +to bear. The wind, we were told, frequently raised the sand in clouds; +and though the danger of being buried beneath the tombs thus made, we +had reason to believe, was greatly exaggerated, yet the plague of sand +is certainly an evil to be dreaded, and travellers will do well +to avoid the season in which it prevails. The speed of my donkeys +increasing, rather than diminishing, after we left the well, for they +seemed to know that Suez would terminate their journey, I crossed the +intervening three miles very quickly, and was soon at the walls of the +town. + +Distance lends no enchantment to the view of Suez. It is difficult to +fancy that the few miserable buildings, appearing upon the margin +of the sea, actually constitute a town; and the heart sinks at the +approach to a place so barren and desolate. My donkeys carried me +through a gap in the wall, which answered all the purposes of +a gateway, and we passed along broken ground and among wretched +habitations, more fit for the abode of savage beasts than men. Even +the superior description of houses bore so forlorn and dilapidated +an appearance, that I actually trembled as I approached them, fearing +that my guide would stop, and tell me that, my journey was at an end. + +Before I had time to make any observations upon the place to which I +was conducted, I found myself at the foot of a flight of steps, and +reaching a landing place, saw another above, and Mohammed descending +to meet me. I followed him to the top, and crossing a large apartment, +which served as dining and drawing room, entered a passage which led +to a light and certainly airy bed-chamber; for half the front wall, +and a portion of one of the sides, were entirely formed of wooden +trellice, which admitted, with the utmost freedom, all the winds of +heaven, the sun, and also the dust. There was a mat upon the floor, +and the apartment was whitewashed to the rafters, which were in good +condition; and upon Mohammed's declaration that it was free from rats, +I felt an assurance of a share of comfort which I had dared not expect +before. There were two neat beds, with musquito-curtains, two tables, +and washing apparatus, but no looking-glass; an omission which I could +supply, though we had dispensed with such a piece of luxury altogether +in the desert. Well supplied with hot and cold water, I had enjoyed +the refreshment of plenteous ablutions, and nearly completed my +toilet, before the arrival of the friends I had so completely +distanced. I made an attempt to sit down to my desk, but was unable +to write a line, and throwing myself on my bed full dressed, I fell +asleep in a moment, and enjoyed the deepest repose for an hour, or +perhaps longer. + +I was awakened by my friend, Miss E., who informed me that the purser +of the _Berenice_ was in the drawing-room, and that I must go to him +and pay my passage-money. I was not, however, provided with the means +of doing this in ready cash, and as the rate of exchange for the +thirty pounds in sovereigns which I possessed could not be decided +here, at the suggestion of one of my fellow-passengers, I drew a +bill upon a banker in Bombay for the amount, eighty pounds, the sum +demanded for half a cabin, which, fortunately, I could divide with +the friend who had accompanied me from England. This transaction so +completely roused me, that I found myself equal to the continuation +of the journal which I had commenced at Cairo. I despatched also the +letter with which I had been kindly furnished to the British Consul, +and was immediately favoured by a visit from him. As we expressed +some anxiety about our accommodation on board the steamer, he +politely offered to take us to the vessel in his own boat; but to +this arrangement the purser objected, stating that the ship was in +confusion, and that one of the best cabins had been reserved for us. +With this assurance we were accordingly content. + +We arrived at Suez on Wednesday, the 9th of October, and were told to +hold ourselves in readiness to embark on Friday at noon. We were not +sorry for this respite, especially as we found our hotel, which was +kept by a person in the employment of Mr. Waghorn, more comfortable +than could have been hoped for from its exterior. The greatest +annoyance we sustained was from the dust, which was brought in by a +very strong wind through the lattices. I endeavoured to remedy this +evil, in some degree, by directing the servants of the house to nail +a sheet across the upper portion of the perforated wood-work. The +windows of our chamber commanded as good a view of Suez as the place +afforded; one at the side overlooked an irregular open space, which +stretched between the house and the sea. At some distance opposite, +there were one or two mansions of much better appearance than the +rest, and having an air of comfort imparted to them by outside +shutters, of new and neat construction. These we understood to be the +abodes of officers in the Pasha's service. Mehemet Ali is said to +be extremely unwilling to allow English people to build houses +for themselves at Suez; while he freely grants permission to their +residence at Alexandria and Cairo, he seems averse to their settling +upon the shores of the Red Sea. Mr. Waghorn and Mr. Hill are, +therefore, compelled to be content to fit up the only residences at +their disposal in the best manner that circumstances will admit. I +had no opportunity of forming any opinion respecting Mr. Hill's +establishment, but am able to speak very well of the accommodation +afforded by the hotel at which we sojourned. + +Judging from the exterior, for the desert itself does not appear to +be less productive than Suez, there must have been some difficulty in +getting supplies, notwithstanding we found no want of good things at +our breakfast and dinner-table, plenty of eggs and milk, fowl and fish +being supplied; every article doing credit to the skill of the +cook. Nor was the cleanliness that prevailed, in despite of all the +obstacles opposed to it, less worthy of praise: the servants were +civil and attentive, and the prices charged extremely moderate. All +the guests of the hotel of course formed one family, assembling daily +at meals, after the continental fashion. The dining-room was spacious, +and divided into two portions; the one ascended by a step was +surrounded by divans, after the Egyptian fashion, and here were books +to be found containing useful and entertaining knowledge. A few stray +numbers of the _Asiatic Journal_, half a dozen volumes of standard +novels, files of the _Bombay Times_, and works illustrative of ancient +and modern Egypt, served to beguile the time of those who had +nothing else to do. Meanwhile, travellers came dropping in, and the +caravanserai was soon crowded. + + + + +CHAPTER VII. + + * * * * * + +SUEZ TO ADEN. + + * * * * * + + Travellers assembling at Suez--Remarks on the Pasha's + Government--Embarkation on the Steamer--Miserable accommodation in the + _Berenice_, and awkwardness of the attendants--Government Ships not + adapted to carry Passengers--Cause of the miserable state of the Red + Sea Steamers--Shores of the Red Sea--Arrival at Mocha--Its appearance + from the Sea--Arrival at Aden--Its wild and rocky appearance on + landing--Cape Aden--The Town--Singular appearance of the Houses--The + Garrison expecting an attack by the Arabs--Discontent of the + Servants of Europeans at Aden--Complaints by Anglo-Indians against + Servants--Causes--Little to interest Europeans in Aden. + + +Amongst the travellers who came dropping in at the hotel, was +the Portuguese governor of Goa and his suite, consisting of four +gentlemen, the private and public secretaries, an aide-de-camp, and +the fourth holding some other appointment. They came by the French +steamer, which had left Marseilles on the day of our departure. The +governor, a fine old soldier, and a perfect gentleman, proved a +great acquisition to our party; and knowing the state of Goa, and the +disappointment he would in all probability sustain upon arriving at +the seat of his government in the present low condition to which it +is reduced, we could not help feeling much interested in his welfare. +This gentleman, who inherited the title of baron, and was moreover +an old general officer, had mixed in the very best society, and was +evidently well acquainted with courts and camps; he spoke several +languages, and in the course of his travels had visited England. His +retinue were quiet gentlemanly men, and the young aide-de-camp, in +particular, made himself very agreeable. + +There were two other travellers of some note at Suez, who had put up +at Hill's Hotel; one, an American gentleman, who had come across the +desert for the purpose of looking at the Red Sea. I saw him mounted +upon a donkey, and gazing as he stood upon the shore at the bright but +narrow channel, so interesting to all who have read the history of the +Israelites, with reverential feelings. I felt a strong inclination +to accost him; but refrained, being unwilling to disturb his reveries +with what he might have thought an impertinent interruption. It was +evidently a last look, for he was veiled for the journey, and at +length, tearing himself away, he turned his donkey's head, and +struck into the desert. The other traveller was a young Scotsman, +who proposed to go as far as Aden in the _Berenice_, on his way to +Abyssinia, trusting that a residence of some months in Egypt would +enable him to pass for a Turk. He had no very precise object in view, +but intended to make an attempt to explore the sources of the Nile. + +There was nothing in Suez that could make a longer stay desirable, and +we quitted it without regret. My journey through Egypt had been much +too rapid for me to presume to give any decided opinion concerning +the strongly agitated question respecting the merits of the Pasha's +government. It is very evident that he has not learned the most +instructive lesson of political economy, nor has yet understood that +the way to render himself powerful is to make his subjects rich; +nevertheless, though his exactions and monopolies may be felt at +present as very serious evils, yet, in establishing manufactories, and +in embodying a national force, there can be no doubt that he has sown +the seeds of much that is good; and should his government, after +his death, fall into the hands of people equally free from religious +prejudices, we may reasonably hope that they will entertain more +enlarged and liberal views, and thus render measures, now difficult +to bear, of incalculable advantage to the future prosperity of the +country. + +The British Consul politely offered to conduct myself and my female +friends on board the steamer; he accordingly called for us, and I +bade, as I hoped, a last adieu to Suez, it being my wish and intention +to return home by way of Cosseir. Previous to our embarkation, a +series of regulations had been placed in our hands for the engagement +of passages in the Honourable Company's armed steamers, with +instructions to passengers, &c. + +Upon repairing to our cabin, Miss E. and myself were surprised and +disappointed at the miserable accommodation it afforded. The three +cabins allotted to the use of the ladies had been appropriated, in two +instances, to married couples, and we were obliged to put up with one +of smaller size, which had the additional inconvenience of opening +into the public saloon. There were no Venetian blinds to the door, +consequently, the only means of obtaining a free circulation of air +was to have it open. A locker with a hinged shelf, which opened like +a shutter, and thus afforded space for one mattress to be placed upon +it, ran along one side of the cabin, under the port-hole, but the +floor was the only visible means of accommodation for the second +person crammed by Government regulation into this den. There was not +a place in which a wash-hand basin could be put, so awkwardly were +the doors arranged, to one of which there was no fastening whatsoever. +Altogether, the case seemed hopeless, and as cock-roaches were walking +about the vessel by dozens, the prospect of sleeping on the ground +was anything but agreeable, especially with the feeling that we were +paying at the rate of four pounds a day for our accommodation. + +We were, however, compelled to postpone our arrangements, by a summons +to dinner; and in the evening, when repairing again to the cabin, I +found my mattress placed upon two portmanteaus and a box. Of course, +no attention was paid to the inequalities of the surface, and I +endeavoured, by folding my fur cloak and a thick dressing-gown +under my sheet, to render this miserable apology for a bed tenable. +Hitherto, our berth-places in the Government-steamers had been very +comfortable; though small, they answered the purpose of sleeping and +of washing, while the larger cabin into which they opened, and which +was set apart for the ladies, enabled us all to complete our toilets +without inconvenience. A sail had been hung before the door by way of +curtain, but the heat was still difficult to bear, and we found that +we had adventured upon the Red Sea at least a month too soon. The next +morning, the captain, hearing that I had, as might have been +expected, passed a wretched night, kindly sent his cot for my future +accommodation; after the second night, however, the servants thinking +it too much trouble to attend to it properly, the ropes gave way, and +it came down. The cabin being much too small to allow it to remain +hanging all day, I at first trusted to the servants to put it up at +night; but, after this accident, and finding them to be incorrigibly +stupid, lazy, and disobliging, I contented myself with placing the cot +upon two portmanteaus, and thus forming a bed-place. Subsequently, one +of the passengers having kindly adjusted the ropes, Miss E. and myself +contrived to sling it; a fatiguing operation, which added much to the +discomforts of the voyage. The idea of going upon the quarter-deck, or +writing a letter, which might perhaps be handed up to Government, to +make a formal complaint to the captain, was not to be thought of, and +seeing the impossibility of getting any thing properly done by the +tribe of uncouth barbarians dignified by the name of servants, the +only plan was to render myself quite independent of them, and much did +we miss the activity, good humour, and readiness to oblige manifested +by our Egyptian attendant, Mohammed. Where a wish to please is +evinced, though wholly unattended by efficiency in the duties +undertaken by a servant, I can very easily excuse awkwardness, +forgetfulness, or any other fault; but the wretched half-castes, who +take service on board the Government steamers, have not even common +civility to recommend them; there was not a passenger in the vessel +who did not complain of the insults to which all were more or less +subjected. + +Where the blame lay, it is difficult to state exactly; no one could be +more kind and obliging than the captain, and it was this disposition +upon his part which rendered us all unwilling to worry him with +complaints. The charge of a steamer in the Red Sea seems quite enough +to occupy the commandant's time and attention, without having the +comforts of seven or eight-and-twenty passengers to look after; but +these duties might have been performed by a clever and active steward. +Whether there was a personage on board of that designation, I never +could learn; I asked several times to speak with him, but he never in +a single instance attended the summons. + +We had no reason to complain of want of liberality on the part of the +captain, for the table was plentifully supplied, though the cooks, +being unfortunately most worthy of the patronage of that potentate who +is said to send them to our kitchens, generally contrived to render +the greater portion uneatable. The advantage of rising from table with +an appetite is one which I have usually tried on board ship, having +only in few instances, during my numerous voyages, been fortunate +enough to find food upon which I dared to venture. + +The more I have seen of government ships, the more certain I feel that +they are not adapted to carry passengers. The authorities appear to +think that people ought to be too thankful to pay an enormous price +for the worst species of accommodation. The commandants have not +been accustomed to attend to the minutiae which can alone secure the +comfort of those who sail with them, while the officers, generally +speaking, endeavour to show their contempt of the service in which +they are sent, against their inclination, by neglect and even rudeness +towards the passengers. + +While on board the _Berenice_, the following paragraph in a Bombay +newspaper struck my eye, and as it is a corroboration of the +statements which I deem it to be a duty to make, I insert it in this +place. "The voyager (from Agra) must not think his troubles at an +end on reaching Bombay, or that the steam-packets are equal to the +passenger Indiaman in accommodation. In fact, I cannot conceive how a +lady manages; we have, however, five. There are only seven very small +cabins, into each of which two people are crammed; no room to swing +cats. Eight other deluded individuals, of whom I am one, are given to +understand that a cabin-passage is included in permission to sleep on +the benches and table of the cuddy. For this you pay Rs. 200 extra. +The vessel is dirty beyond measure, from the soot, and with the +difficulty of copious ablution and private accommodation, is almost +worse, to a lover of Indian habits, than the journey to Bombay from +Agra upon camels. No civility is to be got from the officers. If they +are not directly uncivil, the passengers are luckier than we have +been. They declare themselves disgusted with passenger ships, but do +not take the proper way of showing their superiority to the duty." + +The only officer of the _Berenice_ who dined at the captain's table +was the surgeon of the vessel, and in justice to him it must be +said, that he left no means untried to promote the comfort of the +passengers. It is likewise necessary to state, that we were never +put upon an allowance of water, although, in consequence of late +alterations made in the dockyard, the vessel had been reduced to +about half the quantity she had been accustomed to carry in iron tanks +constructed for the purpose. Notwithstanding this reduction, we +could always procure a sufficiency, either of hot or cold water, for +ablutions, rendered doubly necessary in consequence of the atmosphere +of coal-dust which we breathed. Not that it was possible to continue +clean for a single hour; nevertheless, there was some comfort in +making the attempt. + +There were eight cabins in the _Berenice_, besides the three +appropriated to ladies; these were ranged four on either side of +the saloon, reaching up two-thirds of the length. The apartment, +therefore, took the form of a T, and the upper end or cross was +furnished with horse-hair sofas; upon these, and upon the table, those +passengers slept who were not provided with cabins. Many preferred the +deck, but being washed out of it by the necessary cleaning process, +which took place at day-break, were obliged to make their toilettes +in the saloon. This also formed the dressing-place for dinner, and the +basins of dirty water, hair-brushes, &c. were scarcely removed from +the side-tables before the party were summoned to their repast. The +preparations for this meal were a work of time, always beginning at +half-past one; an hour was employed in placing the dishes upon the +table, in order that every thing might have time to cool. + +The reason assigned for not putting Venetian blinds to the cabin-doors +was this: it would injure the appearance of the cabin--an appearance +certainly not much improved by the dirty sail which hung against our +portal. The saloon itself, without this addition, was dingy enough, +being panelled with dark oak, relieved by a narrow gilt cornice, and +the royal arms carved and gilded over an arm-chair at the rudder-case, +the ornaments of a clock which never kept time. All the servants, who +could not find accommodation elsewhere, slept under the table; thus +adding to the abominations of this frightful place. And yet we were +congratulated upon our good fortune, in being accommodated in the +_Berenice_, being told that the _Zenobia_, which passed us on our way, +had been employed in carrying pigs between Waterford and Bristol, and +that the _Hugh Lindsay_ was in even worse condition; the _Berenice_ +being, in short, the crack ship. + +Every day added to the heat and the dirt, and in the evening, when +going upon deck to inhale the odours of the hen-coops, the smell was +insufferable. When to this annoyance coal-dust, half an inch deep, +is added, my preference of my own cabin will not be a subject of +surprise. With what degree of truth, I cannot pretend to say, all +the disagreeable circumstances sustained on board the _Berenice_ were +attributed to the alterations made in the docks. Previously to these +changes, we were told, the furnaces were supplied with coal by a +method which obviated the necessity of having it upon deck, whence the +dust was now carried all over the ship upon the feet of the persons +who were continually passing to and fro. + +Occasionally, we suffered some inconvenience from the motion of the +vessel, but, generally speaking, nothing more disagreeable occurred +than the tremulous action of the engines, an action which completely +incapacitated me from any employment except that of reading. The only +seats or tables we could command in our cabin consisted of our boxes, +so that being turned out of the saloon at half-past one, by the +servants who laid the cloth for dinner, it was not very easy to make +an attempt at writing, or even needle-work. Doubtless the passengers +from Bombay could contrive to have more comforts about them. It was +impossible, however, that those who had already made a long overland +journey should be provided with the means of furnishing their cabins, +and this consideration should weigh with the Government when taking +money for the accommodation of passengers. Cabins ought certainly to +be supplied with bed-places and a washing-table, and not to be left +perfectly dismantled by those occupants who arrive at Suez, and who, +having previously fitted them up, have a right to all they contain. + +The miserable state of the Red Sea steamers, of course, often +furnished a theme for conversation, and we were repeatedly told that +their condition was entirely owing to the jealousy of the people of +Calcutta, who could not endure the idea of the importance to which +Bombay was rising, in consequence of its speedy communication with +England. Without knowing exactly where the fault may lie, it must be +said that there is great room for improvement. In all probability, the +increased number of persons who will proceed to India by way of the +Red Sea, now that the passage is open, will compel the merchants, or +other speculators, to provide better vessels for the trip. At present, +the price demanded is enormously disproportioned to the accommodation +given, while the chance of falling in with a disagreeable person in +the commandant should be always taken into consideration by those who +meditate the overland journey. The consolation, in so fine a vessel +as the _Berenice_, consists in the degree of certainty with which +the duration of the voyage may be calculated, eighteen or twenty days +being the usual period employed. In smaller steamers, and those of a +less favourable construction, accidents and delays are very frequent; +sometimes the coal is burning half the voyage, and thus rendered +nearly useless to the remaining portion, the vessel depending entirely +upon the sails. + +During the hot weather and the monsoons, the navigation of the Red +Sea is attended with much inconvenience, from the sultriness of the +atmosphere and the high winds; it is only, therefore, at one season +of the year that travellers can, with any hope of comfort, avail +themselves of the route; it must, consequently, be questionable +whether the influx of voyagers will be sufficiently great to cover the +expense of the vessels required. A large steamer is now building +at Bombay, for the purpose of conveying the mails, and another is +expected out from England with the same object. + +The shores of the Red Sea are bold and rocky, exhibiting ranges of +picturesque hills, sometimes seceding from, at others approaching, the +beach. A few days brought us to Mocha. The captain had kindly promised +to take me on shore with him; but, unfortunately, the heat and the +fatigue which I had sustained had occasioned a slight attack of fever, +and as we did not arrive before the town until nearly twelve o'clock, +I was afraid to encounter the rays of the sun during the day. We could +obtain a good view of the city from the vessel; it appeared to +be large and well built, that is, comparatively speaking; but its +unsheltered walls, absolutely baked in the sun, and the arid waste on +which it stood, gave to it a wild and desolate appearance. + +We were told that already, since the British occupation of Aden, the +trade of Mocha had fallen off. It seldom happens that a steamer passes +down the Red Sea without bringing emigrants from Mocha, anxious to +establish themselves in the new settlement; and if Aden were made +a free port, there can be little doubt that it would monopolize the +whole commerce of the neighbourhood. The persons desirous to colonize +the place say, very justly, that they cannot afford to pay duties, +having to quit their own houses at a loss, and to construct others, +Aden being at present destitute of accommodation for strangers. If, +however, encouragement should be given them, they will flock thither +in great numbers; and, under proper management, there is every reason +to hope that Aden will recover all its former importance and wealth, +and become one of the most useful dependencies of the British crown. + +We were to take in coals and water at Aden, and arriving there in the +afternoon of Saturday, the 19th of October, every body determined to +go on shore, if possible, on the ensuing morning. By the kindness of +some friends, we had palanquins in waiting at day-break, which were +to convey us a distance of five miles to the place now occupied +as cantonments. Our road conducted us for a mile or two along the +sea-shore, with high crags piled on one side, a rugged path, and rocks +rising out of the water to a considerable distance. We then ascended +a height, which led to an aperture in the hills, called the Pass. +Here we found a gate and a guard of sepoys. The scenery was wild, and +though nearly destitute of vegetation--a few coarse plants occurring +here and there scarcely deserving the name--very beautiful. + +It would, perhaps, be too much to designate the bare and lofty cliffs, +which piled themselves upwards in confused masses, with the name of +mountains; they nevertheless conveyed ideas of sublimity which I had +not associated with other landscapes of a similar nature. The Pass, +narrow and enclosed on either side by winding rocks, brought us at +length down a rather steep declivity to a sort of basin, surrounded +upon three sides with lofty hills, and on the fourth by the sea. + +Cape Aden forms a high and rocky promontory, the most elevated portion +being 1,776 feet above the level of the sea. This lofty headland, when +viewed at a distance, appears like an island, in consequence of +its being connected with the interior by low ground, which, in the +vicinity of Khora Muckse, is quite a swamp. Its summits assume the +aspect of turretted peaks, having ruined forts and watch-towers on +the highest elevations. The hills are naked and barren, and the valley +little better; the whole, however, presenting a grand, picturesque, +and imposing appearance. The town of Aden lies on the east side of the +Cape, in the amphitheatre before mentioned. A sketch of its history +will be given, gathered upon the spot, in a subsequent paper, the +place being sufficiently interesting to demand a lengthened notice; +meanwhile a passing remark is called for on its present appearance. + +At first sight of Aden, it is difficult to suppose it to be the +residence of human beings, and more especially of European families. +The town, if such it may be called, consists of a few scattered houses +of stone, apparently loosely put together, with pigeon-holes for +windows, and roofs which, being flat, and apparently surrounded by a +low parapet, afford no idea of their being habitable. It is difficult +to find a comparison for these dwellings, which appeared to be +composed of nothing more than four walls, and yet, to judge from the +apertures, contained two or more stories. The greater number were +enclosed in a sort of yard or compound, the fences being formed of +long yellow reeds; the less substantial dwellings were entirely made +of these reeds, so that they looked like immense crates or cages for +domestic fowls. + +My palanquin at length stopped at a flight of steps hewn out of +the rock; and I found myself at the entrance of a habitation, +half-bungalow, half-tent; and certainly, as the permanent abode +of civilized beings, the strangest residence I had ever seen. The +uprights and frame-work were made of reeds and bamboos, lined with +thin mats, which had at one time been double; but the harbour thus +afforded for rats being found inconvenient, the outer casing had been +removed. Two good-sized apartments, with verandahs all round, and +dressing and bathing-rooms attached, were formed in this way; they +were well carpeted and well furnished, but destitute both of glass +windows and wooden doors; what are called in India _jaumps_, and +chicks of split bamboo, being the substitutes. + +Government not yet having fixed upon the site for the station intended +to be established at Aden, none of the European inhabitants have +begun to build their houses, which, it is said, are to be very +solidly constructed of stone; at present, they are scattered, in Gipsy +fashion, upon the rocks overlooking the sea, and at the time of the +year in which I visited them they enjoyed a delightfully cool breeze. +What they would be in the hot weather, it is difficult to say. The +supplies, for the most part, come from a considerable distance, but +appear to be abundant; and when at length a good understanding shall +have taken place between the British Government and the neighbouring +sheikhs, the markets will be furnished with every thing that the +countries in the vicinity produce. + +The garrison were prepared, at the period of our arrival, for the +outbreak which has since occurred. It is melancholy to contemplate the +sacrifice of life which will in all probability take place before the +Arabs will be reconciled to the loss of a territory which has for +a long time been of no use to them, but which, under its present +masters, bids fair to introduce mines of wealth into an impoverished +country. The Pasha of Egypt had long cast a covetous eye upon Aden, +and its occupation by the British took place at the precise period +requisite to check the ambitious designs of a man thirsting for +conquest, and to allay the fears of the Imaum of Muscat, who, +naturally enough, dreaded encroachments upon his territory. + +Aden had hitherto agreed very well with its European residents. The +sepoys, servants, and camp-followers, however, had suffered much both +from mental and bodily ailments. They were deprived of their usual +sources of amusement, and of their accustomed food, and languished +under that home-sickness, which the natives of India feel in a very +acute degree. The greater number of servants were discontented, and +anxious to return to their native country. This natural desire upon +their part was highly resented by their masters, who, instead of +taking the most obvious means of remedying the evil, and employing +the natives of the place, who appeared to be tractable and teachable +enough, abused and threatened to beat the unfortunate people, +convicted of what self-love styles "ingratitude." + +In a very clever work, I have seen the whole sum of the miseries of +human life comprised in one word, "servants;" and until we can procure +human beings with all the perfections of our fallen nature, and none +of our faults, to minister to our wants and wishes, the complaint, +so sickening and so general, and frequently so unjust, will be +reiterated. Anglo-Indians, however, seem to be more tormented by these +domestic plagues than any other set of people. The instant a stranger +lands upon Asiatic ground, we hear of nothing else. It is considered +to be polite conversation in the drawing-room, aid delicate-looking +women will listen with the greatest complacence to the most brutal +threats uttered by their male associates against the wretched people +whom hard fate has placed about their persons. By some mischance, +these very individuals are equally ill-served at home, the greater +number who return to England being either rendered miserable there, or +driven back to India in consequence of the impossibility of managing +their servants. As far as my own experience goes, with the exception +of the people in the _Berenice_, who were not in the slightest degree +under the control of the passengers, or, it may be said, attached to +them in any way, I have always found it easy, both at home and abroad, +to obtain good servants, at least quite as good as people, conscious +of the infirmities of humanity in their own persons, have a right to +expect. My simple rule has been, never to keep a person who did not +suit me, and to treat those who did with kindness and indulgence. The +system has always answered, and I am probably on that account the less +inclined to sympathize with persons who are eternally complaining. + +There may be some excuse at Aden for the conversation turning upon +domestic matters of this kind, and perhaps I do the station injustice +in supposing that they form a common topic. With the exception of +those persons who take pleasure in the anticipation of the improvement +of the surrounding tribes, there is very little to interest European +residents in this arid spot. Should, however, the hopes which many +enlightened individuals entertain be realized, or the prospect of +their fulfilment continue unclouded, those who now endure a dreary +exile in a barren country, and surrounded by a hostile people, will +or ought to derive much consolation from the thought, that their +employment upon a disagreeable duty may prove of the utmost benefit to +thousands of their fellow-creatures. It is pleasant to look forward to +the civilization of Abyssinia, and other more remote places, by means +of commercial intercourse with Aden. + + + + +CHAPTER VIII. + + * * * * * + +ADEN. + + * * * * * + + Commanding situation of Aden--Its importance in former times--But few + remains of its grandeur--Its facilities as a retreat for the piratical + hordes of the Desert--The loss of its trade followed by reduction + of the population--Speculations as to the probability of ultimately + resisting the Arabs--Exaggerated notions entertained by the Shiekhs of + the wealth of the British--Aden a free Port would be the Queen of the + adjacent Seas--Its advantages over Mocha--The Inhabitants of Aden--The + Jews--The Banians--The Soomalees--The Arabs--Hopes of the prosperity + of Aden--Goods in request there--Exports--Re-embarkation on the + Steamer--Want of attention--Makallah--Description of the place--Its + products--The Gazelle--Traveller in Abyssinia--Adventurous English + Travellers--Attractions of the Arab life--Arrival at Bombay. + + +Wretched and miserable as the appearance of Aden must be deemed at +the present moment, its commanding situation rendered it of great +importance in former times. During the reign of Constantine, it was an +opulent city, forming one of the great emporia for the commerce of +the East. The sole remains of the grandeur it once boasted consists of +about ninety dilapidated stone houses, the greater number of dwellings +which seem to shelter its scanty population being nothing more than +huts rudely constructed of reeds. These wretched tenements, huddled +together without the slightest attempt at regularity, occupy the +crater of an extinct volcano. Unrelieved by trees, and assimilating +in colour with the arid soil and barren hills rising around, they +scarcely convey an idea of the purpose for which they are designed. + +A stranger, entering Aden, finds it difficult to believe that he is in +the midst of an inhabited place, the houses appearing to be fewer in +number, and more insignificant, than a closer inspection proves them +to be. No splendid fragment, imposing in its ruin, records the glory +and opulence of the populous city, as it existed in the days of +Solyman the Magnificent, the era from whence it dates its decline. The +possession of Aden was eagerly contended for by the two great powers, +the Turks and the Portuguese, struggling for mastery in the East, and +when they were no longer able to maintain their rivalry, it reverted +into the hands of its ancient masters, the Arabs. The security +afforded by its natural defences, aided by the fortifications, the +work of former times, rendered it a suitable retreat for the piratical +hordes of the desert. The lawless sons of Ishmael could, from this +stronghold, rush out upon the adjacent waters, and make themselves +masters of the wealth of those adventurers who dared to encounter the +dangers of the Red Sea. + +With the loss of every thing approaching to good government, Aden lost +its trade. The system of monopoly, which enriches the sovereign at the +expense of the subject, speedily ends in ruin. The superior classes of +the inhabitants were either driven away, in consequence of the tyranny +which they endured, or, reduced to a state of destitution, perished +miserably upon the soil, until at length the traces of former +magnificence became few and faint, the once flourishing city falling +into one wide waste of desolation. The remains of a splendid aqueduct, +which was at the first survey mistaken for a Roman road; a solitary +watch-tower, and a series of broken walls, alone attest the ancient +glories of the place. + +Previous to the occupation of the British, the population of Aden +scarcely exceeded six hundred souls; it is now, independently of the +garrison, more nearly approaching to a thousand, and of these the +principal number are Jews, who, together with about fifty Banians, +have contrived to amass a little of what, by comparison, may be called +wealth. The trade of Aden, for a long time before we obtained our +present possession, was very trifling, the imports consisting of a few +English cotton cloths, together with lead, iron, and tin, which +were brought by Buglas on their way to Mocha; rice, dates, and small +numbers of cattle, likewise, coming from neighbouring places; while +the exports were limited to a little coffee, millet, and a few drugs. + +At the period of my visit to Aden, the garrison were in almost +momentary expectation of an attack from the Arabs, who had gathered +to the amount of five thousand in the neighbourhood, and kept the new +occupants continually upon the alert. Of course, in such a state of +affairs, great differences of opinion existed respecting the ultimate +fate of this interesting place. Many acute persons consider the +project of colonizing a barren spot, surrounded by hostile tribes, by +a handful of soldiers from India, chimerical, especially in the teeth +of predictions which have for so long a period been fulfilled to the +letter. It is stated that the Imaum of Muscat asked, in astonishment, +whether we were mad enough to contemplate the subjugation of the +Arabs, the sons of his father Ishmael; since we could not be so +ignorant of our own Scriptures as not to know that their hands were to +be eternally against every man, and every man's hand against theirs. +But, although the Arabs should continue hostile, while we are masters +of the sea, and can strengthen Aden so completely upon the land-side, +as to render it, what many people believe it can be made, a second +Gibraltar, we have a wide field for commercial speculation in the +opposite coast of Africa. + +Aden is, at present, a very expensive possession, and the long period +which has elapsed since our occupation, without preparations +having been commenced for a permanent residence, has occasioned an +apprehension that it may be ultimately abandoned. Many persons are, +however, sanguine in the hope that, as soon as scientific men have +decided upon the best site for a cantonment, buildings will be erected +for the reception of the garrison. These, it is confidently expected, +will be upon a grand scale, and of solid construction. The greater +portion of the materials must be brought from distant places, and +already some of the European inhabitants are conveying from Bombay +those portable houses which are commonly set up during the cold season +on the Esplanade, and which will afford a great improvement upon +the dwellings of bamboos, reeds, and mats, which at present form +the abodes of the officers of this establishment. It has been +satisfactorily ascertained, that the clearing out and repairing the +old tanks and wells will be sufficient to secure an ample supply of +water for a very extensive population, the report of those gentlemen +employed in analyzing its quality being highly favourable. + +A little allowance must, of course, be made for the sanguine nature of +the expectations formed by persons whose imaginations are dazzled by +the splendid visions of the future arising before them; still, enough +appears to have been demonstrated to justify a strong hope that there +are no serious difficulties in the way of our permanent occupation of +a place which we have succeeded in rescuing from Arab tyranny. It will +be long, perhaps, before the neighbouring sheikhs will consent to an +amicable arrangement with the British authorities of Aden, for they +at present entertain the most exaggerated notions of the wealth of its +new possessors. + +The English, with their usual thoughtless improvidence, threw about +their money so carelessly, that, soon after their arrival, every +article of household consumption doubled and trebled in price, +the remuneration for labour rising in proportion. This improvident +expenditure has had the effect of making the people discontented. +Imagining our resources to be inexhaustible, they do not know how much +to ask for their commodities or their services, and it will require +great firmness and discretion, on the part of the persons in +authority, to settle the fair price for both. The erection of new +houses, which are called for by nearly every fresh arrival, even in +their present light construction, serves very materially to enrich the +inhabitants of Aden, the natural consequence being an increase of the +industrious portion of the population, while it may be confidently +expected that the commencement of superior works will attract a +superior class of persons to the place. + +The present Resident is a strenuous advocate for the abolition of all +duties, at least for a time; and should the representations made +by him, and other persons well acquainted with the character and +resources of the surrounding countries, succeed in inducing the +Government of India to render Aden a free port, it would soon become +the queen of the adjacent seas. The town of Senna is only at the +distance of seven or eight days' journey for camels and merchandize. +The coffee districts are actually nearer to it than to Mocha, and +the road equally safe and convenient; other large towns in Yemen +are within an easy journey, and the rich and populous places in the +province of Hydramut are open for its trade. + +The mountains to the north of Aden produce gums, frankincense, and +coffee, which would soon find their way to so promising a market. Its +harbour being immediately to the north of Barbar, vessels during the +north-eastern monsoon would reach it with the produce of Africa in +twenty-four hours, returning with British and Indian produce in the +same time. All the exports of Hanall, and other large interior towns +on the opposite coast, consisting of coffee, gums, myrrh, hides, +elephants' teeth, gold dust, ostrich feathers, &c, would be conveyed +to Aden, to be exchanged for piece goods, chintzes, cutlery, and rice; +all of which would find a ready market. The manufactures of India +and of Great Britain would thus be very extensively introduced, there +being good reason to believe that they would be largely purchased in +the provinces of Yemen and Hydramut. + +Amongst the great advantages which Aden possesses over Mocha, is the +situation of its harbour, which may be entered by a ship or boat at +any period of the year, and quitted with the same facility: whereas +its rival port is so difficult of access in the months of March, +April, and May, that boats are sometimes six, seven, or eight days +getting to the straits, a distance of forty miles only. These are +considerations worthy of the attention of merchants, the length of the +voyage not being the sole source of annoyance, since vessels taking +cargoes at Aden save the great wear and tear occasioned in their +return down the Red Sea. + +Perhaps, considering the difficulty of conciliating the semi-barbarous +tribes in the neighbourhood, the trade and population of Aden have +increased as much as we could reasonably hope; but when peace shall at +length be established, it will doubtless attract merchants and Banians +from Surat, as well as all other adjacent places. If at this moment +our expectations have not been completely answered, we have at least +the satisfaction of knowing that, besides having saved the Red Sea +from the encroachments of the Pasha of Egypt, we have anticipated +a rival power, which has already derived greater advantage from our +supineness, with regard to our Eastern possessions, than is desirable. + +The Americans, during 1833-4-5, had a small squadron looking all about +for a spot which they could turn to good account. Socotra, from its +convenient position between Africa and Arabia, proved a point of +attraction, and had not Capt. Haines, of the Indian Navy, promptly +taken possession, in the name of Great Britain, they would in all +probability have succeeded in effecting a settlement. With their usual +attention to the interests of their commerce, the Americans have a +resident permanently stationed at Zanzibar, and have made advantageous +arrangements with the Imaum of Muscat, whereby the trade with the +United States has greatly increased; American ships are constantly +arriving, with piece-goods, glass-ware, &c, and returning with +profitable cargoes, the produce of Africa. + +The inhabitants of Aden appear to be a peaceable race, generally well +affected to the government, from which they cannot fail to derive +advantage. The Jews, as I have before mentioned, are the most +important, both in consequence of their number and of their superior +wealth; they belong to the tribe of Judah, and are very industrious, +being the manufacturers of the place. + +It is by the Jews and their families, the females assisting, that a +coarse kind of cloth, employed for their own garments, and also sold +to strangers, is spun and woven. This cloth is in much esteem +amongst the Arabs: when prepared for them, it is dyed blue, sometimes +ornamented with red borders, indigo being employed, together with +extracts from other plants. The women generally wear a single loose +garment, covering the head with a handkerchief when they leave the +house; they do not, however, conceal their faces. Previous to the +occupation of Aden, the Jewesses were remarkable for the propriety of +their manners, but as they are esteemed handsome, and moreover attract +by their good temper and intelligence, it is to be feared that they +will meet with many temptations to depart from the decorum they have +hitherto maintained. Like their sex and peculiar race, they are +fond of ornaments, adorning themselves with large silver ear-rings, +bracelets, necklaces, and armlets. Hitherto, whatever wealth they +possessed, they were obliged to conceal, the Arabs proving very severe +and oppressive masters; their prospects are now brightening, and they +have already shown a disposition to profit by the new order of things, +having opened shops in the bazaar, and commenced trading in a way they +never ventured upon before. + +Nor is it in spinning and weaving alone that the Jews of Aden excel; +artizans in silver and copper are to be found amongst them, together +with stone-cutters, and other handicrafts-men. They have a school for +the education of their male youth, the females not having yet enjoyed +this advantage, in consequence of the intolerance of the Arabs, who +view with prejudiced eyes every attempt to emancipate women from the +condition to which they have been so long reduced. + +The means of instruction possessed by the Jews of Aden are not very +extensive, a few printed Bibles and MS. extracts forming the whole +of their literature. It has been thought that missionaries would here +find a fair field for their exertions; but, unfortunately, the most +promising places in the East are, by some mistake, either of ignorance +or ambition, left wholly destitute of Christian teachers. While the +pledges of Government are compromised in India, and its stability +threatened, by the daring attempts to make converts at the +presidencies, and other considerable places, where success is +attended with great noise and clamour, many portions of the Company's +territories, in which much quiet good might be effected, are left +entirely without religious aid. + +The Banians, though small in number, rank next to the Jews in +importance, and are, perhaps, more wealthy; they are not, however, +so completely identified with the soil, for they do not bring their +families with them when emigrating to Aden from the places of their +birth. The greater number come from Cutch, arriving at an early period +of life, and with the craft that usually distinguishes them, studying +the character of the Arabs, and making the most of it. They are not +esteemed such good subjects to the new government as the Jews, their +expectations of benefit from a change of masters, in consequence of +their having proved the chief gainers heretofore, being less sanguine. + +The Soomalees are natives of Barbora, and are in number about two +hundred. They employ themselves in making baskets, mats, and fans, +from the leaves of a species of palm-tree; they are not so active and +industrious as the Jews, but the younger portion, if brought up in +European families, might, with the advantage of good tuition, become +useful as servants and labourers. They are Mohamedans, but not very +strict, either in their religious or moral principles, violating oaths +sworn upon the _Koran_, and cheating and thieving whenever they can. +The love of money, however, is a strong stimulus to improvement, and +where it exists, or can be created, the case is far more hopeful than +when the wants and desires are both limited. The Soomalee women are +reckoned handsome, though in that respect they cannot compare with the +Jewesses, their complexions being much darker and their hair coarse; +they have tall, well-proportioned figures, and are as attentive to +their dress and appearance as their poverty will admit. The Arabs are +the least prepossessing of all the inhabitants of Aden, and it will +be long before any confidence can be placed in them. They religiously +conceal their women, and are a bigoted, prejudiced race, disaffected +of course to the new government, and shy of intercourse with the +British occupants. + +That the hopes entertained of the prosperity of Aden have not been +more speedily realized, may be attributed to the prevalent belief that +its new masters could not maintain their ground against the hostile +Arabs of the neighbourhood. It is the opinion of a competent judge, +that, "as soon as the inhabitants of distant countries feel convinced +that our occupation of Aden is intended to be a _permanent_, and not a +temporary measure, they will establish agencies there under our flag, +in preference to any other, and open an extensive traffic." The same +authority states that "it is the opinion of the Banians and Arabs, +that Aden _will regain_ her former commercial renown." + +With respect to the goods at present in requisition, or likely to meet +a sale, at Aden, we learn from the report above quoted, that "of the +manufactures of Europe, coloured handkerchiefs and hardware are +only in demand, though longcloths are procurable and are sometimes +purchased by the Arabs; but these articles are priced so high, as to +prevent any great consumption of them. From what I observed of the +Arab disposition and taste, I certainly believe that coloured cotton +goods of _fast_ colours, and of patterns similar to those elsewhere +specified, if offered at rates somewhat reasonable, would in a very +short period meet with an extensive sale, and be rapidly introduced +into common use amongst the Arabs of the interior. The novelty of the +experiment would at first induce the Arabs to become purchasers, when, +finding the articles _good_, it is but reasonable to anticipate an +extensive demand. The colours should be particularly attended to, for +the certainty of obtaining goods of _fast colours_ would alone ensure +the articles in question a speedy sale. The handkerchiefs that have +already been introduced into Aden are of the worst sort relative +to colour, generally becoming after two or three washings white, or +nearly so; thus it cannot be wondered at if these goods meet with but +a poor demand." + +The ravages committed by the army of the Pasha of Egypt, in the +fertile districts of the neighbourhood of Aden, have been prejudicial +to the interests of the new settlement, and perhaps so long as the +hope of plunder can be entertained by the petty princes, who rule +the adjacent districts, they will be unwilling to wait for the +slower advantages derivable from commerce. The apparently reckless +expenditure of the British residents, and the princely pay given to +the soldiers of the garrison, have offered so dazzling a prospect +of gain, that they (the native chiefs) will have some difficulty in +abandoning the hope of making themselves masters, at a single blow, of +all the treasure brought to their shores. It is said that some Turks, +deserters from Mehemet Ali, who took refuge in Aden, upon being made +acquainted with the amount of pay given to the British troops, and the +regularity with which it was issued, exclaimed, "God is great, and the +English are immortal!" + +During the proper seasons, Aden is well supplied with fruit; its trade +in honey and wax might become very important, the adjacent countries +yielding abundance of both, and of so fine a quality, as to compete +with the produce of the hives of the Mediterranean. Drugs are +procurable in equal abundance, together with perfumes and spices. The +European inhabitants are, of course, compelled to send to Bombay +for those luxuries which habit has rendered necessary; the constant +communication with the presidency renders them easily procurable, +while the intercourse with India and England, by means of the +steamers, relieves the monotony which would otherwise be severely +felt. + +I could have spent two or three days with great pleasure at Aden, +inquiring into its early history, present condition, and future +prospects, and regretted much when a summons reached me to depart. We +entertained a hope that the steamer would come round and take us off +at the northern point; however, we were obliged to return the way we +came. There are, and have been since its occupation, several English +ladies living at Aden, but whether they have not shown themselves +sufficiently often to render their appearance familiar, or the +curiosity of the people is not easily satisfied, I cannot say; but I +found myself an object of great attention to the women and children. + +The sun having declined, the whole of the population of Aden seemed to +be abroad, and many well-dressed and good-looking women were seated on +the rude steps and broken walls of the stone houses before-mentioned. +As they saw me smiling upon them, they drew nearer, salaamed, and +laughed in return, and appeared to examine my dress as closely as +the open doors of the palanquin would permit. Some of the very little +children turned away in horror from a white face, but the greater +number seemed much pleased with the notice taken of them. While +waiting a few minutes for my party, my bearers wanted to drive them +away, but this I would not permit, and we carried on a very amicable +intercourse by signs, both being apparently mutually delighted +with each other. Their vivacity and good-humour made a favourable +impression upon my mind, and I should like to have an opportunity +of becoming better acquainted with them, feeling strongly tempted to +proceed to Aden on my return to England in a sailing vessel, and await +there the arrival of a steamer to convey me up the Red Sea to Cosseir +or to Suez. + +I was offered a present of a milch-goat at Aden, but not being able to +consult with the captain of the _Berenice_ concerning its introduction +on board, I did not like to allow the poor creature to run any risk +of neglect. Its productiveness would soon have diminished on board a +steamer, and it was so useful in a place like Aden, that I could not +feel justified in taking it away for my own gratification. I obtained, +however, a bottle of milk, and when I got on board, having dined +early, and being moreover exhausted with my journey, as I was only +recovering from an attack of fever, I wished to have some tea. This +was too great an indulgence to be granted by the petty authorities +who ruled over the passengers. Unfortunately, upon leaving Suez, I +had given away all my tea to my servant, Mohammed, who was fond of it, +nothing doubting that I should be able to procure as much as I pleased +on board the steamer. The refusal was the more provoking, as there was +plenty of boiling water ready, and I had humbly limited my request to +a spoonful of tea. Under the circumstances, I was obliged to content +myself with milk and water: had the captain or the surgeon of the +vessel been at hand, I should doubtless have been supplied with every +thing I wanted, but in their absence, it was impossible to procure a +single article. Upon one occasion, while tea was serving, a passenger +in the saloon asked for a cup, and was told to go upon deck for it. + +I also procured a supply of soda water at Aden. I had suffered much +from the want of this refreshing beverage during my fever, the supply +taken on board having been exhausted on the voyage up. The passengers +down the Red Sea have the disadvantage of sailing with exhausted +stores. It seems hardly fair to them, especially in cases of illness, +that the whole of any particular article should be given to the people +who embark at Bombay, they having a right to expect that, as they pay +the same price, a portion should be reserved for their use. + +On the second day after our departure from Aden--that is, the 22nd +of October--we arrived at Makallah. It was mid-day before the vessel +ceased to ply her engines, and though invited to go on shore, as +we could not penetrate beyond the walls of the town, we thought it +useless to exchange our cabins for a hot room in the mansion of its +ruler. The town of Makallah, which forms the principal commercial +depôt of the south-west of Arabia, is built upon a rocky platform of +some length, but of very inconsiderable width, backed by a perfect +wall of cliffs, and bounded in front by the sea. It seems tolerably +well built for an Arabian town, many of the houses being of a very +respectable appearance, two or more stories in height, and ornamented +with small turrets and cupolas: the nakib, or governor's residence, is +large, with a high square tower, which gives it the air of a citadel. + +There is not a tree or shrub to be seen, the absence of vegetation +investing the place with a character of its own, and one that +harmonizes with the bold and bare rocks which bound the coast on +either side. We were told that, between two ranges of hills close to +the entrance of the town, a beautiful green valley occurred, watered +by delicious springs, and shaded by date-trees. Had we arrived at +an early period of the morning, we might have spent the day on this +delightful place, proceeding to it on the backs of camels or donkeys, +or even on foot; but it being impossible to get thither while the +sun was in full power, we were obliged to content ourselves with a +description of its beauties. + +Although a very good understanding exists between our Government and +that of Makallah, which has for some time been a depôt of coal for the +use of the steamers, it is not advisable for visitors to proceed very +far from the town without protection. A midshipman belonging to the +Indian navy having gone on shore for the purpose of visiting the +valley before-mentioned, and straying away to some distance, attracted +by the beauty of the scenery, was suddenly surrounded by a party of +Bedouins, who robbed him of all he possessed, cutting off the buttons +from his clothes, under the idea that they were of gold--an impression +which obtains all over the coast, and which inspired the people who +made the last assault upon Aden with the hope of a rich booty. + +The population of Makallah is estimated at about 4,600 people, of +various tribes and countries, the chief portion being either of the +Beni Hassan and Yafái tribes, together with Banians, Kurachies, and +emigrants from nearly all parts of the adjacent coasts. It carries +on rather a considerable trade in gums, hides, and drugs, which, with +coffee, form the exports, receiving in return iron, lead, manufactured +cloths, earthenware, and rice, from Bombay, and all the productions of +the neighbouring countries, slaves included, in which the traffic is +said to be very great. + +The gentlemen who went on shore purchased very pretty and convenient +baskets, wrought in various colours, and also quantities of +sweetmeats, which are much in esteem in India; these are composed of +honey and flour, delicately made, the honey being converted into a +soft kind of paste, with a coating of the flour on the outside. +These sweetmeats were nicely packed in straw baskets, of a different +manufacture from those before-mentioned, and were very superior to +the common sort which is brought from the coast in small coarse +earthenware basins, exceedingly unattractive in their appearance. + +The interior of the country is said to be very beautiful, abundantly +watered by refreshing springs, and shaded by groves of date-trees. +Amongst its animal productions, the most beautiful is the gazelle, +which, properly speaking, is only to be found in Arabia; a delicate +and lovely creature, with the soft black eye which has been from time +immemorial the theme of poets. The gazelle is easily tamed, becoming +in a short time very familiar, and being much more gentle, as well as +more graceful, than the common antelope. Its movements are the most +airy and elegant imaginable. It is fond of describing a circle in +a succession of bounds, jumping off the ground on four legs, and +touching it lightly as it wheels round and round. At other times, it +pirouettes upon the two fore feet, springing round at the same time +like an opera-dancer; in fact, it would appear as if Taglioni, and all +our most celebrated _artistes_, had taken lessons from the gazelle, +so much do their _chefs-d'oeuvre_ resemble its graceful motions. +When domesticated, the gazelle loves to feed upon roses, delighting +apparently in the scent as well as the taste. It is the fashion in the +East to add perfume to the violet, and I found these gazelles would +eat with much zest roses that had been plentifully sprinkled with +their extract, the _goolabee paanee_, so greatly in request. The +gazelle is also very fond of crisply-toasted bread, a taste which must +be acquired in domestication. It is a courageous animal, and will come +readily to the assault, butting fiercely when attacked. In taking a +gazelle away from Arabia, it should be carefully guarded against cold +and damp, and if not provided with water-proof covering to its feet, +would soon die if exposed to the wet decks of a ship. + +We had lost at Aden our fellow-passenger, whom I have mentioned as +having assumed the Turkish dress for the purpose of penetrating +into the interior of Abyssinia. He depended, in a great measure, for +comfort and safety, upon two native priests, whom he had brought with +him from Cairo, and who, in return for his liberality, had promised +all the protection and assistance in their power. He left us with +the good wishes of all the party, and not without some fears in the +breasts of those who contemplated the hazards which he ran. Young and +good-looking, he had, with pardonable, but perhaps dangerous, vanity, +studied the becoming in his costume, which was composed of the very +finest materials. His long outer garment, of a delicate woollen +texture, was lined throughout with silk, and the crimson cap, which +he wore upon his head, was converted into a turban by a piece of gold +muslin wound round it. He expected nothing less than to be plundered +and stripped of this fine apparel, and it will be well for him should +he escape with life. The adventure and the romance of the undertaking +possessed great charms, and he talked, after spending some years in +a wild and wandering career, of sitting down quietly in his paternal +halls, introducing as many of the Egyptian customs as would be +tolerated in a Christian country. + +A short residence in Cairo proves very captivating to many Englishmen; +they like the independent sort of life which they lead; their perfect +freedom from all the thralls imposed by society at home, and, when +tired of dreaming away existence after the indolent fashion of +the East, plunge into the surrounding deserts, and enjoy all the +excitement attendant upon danger. Numerous anecdotes were related to +me of the hardships sustained by young English travellers, who, led by +the spirit of adventure, had trusted themselves to the Bedouins, and, +though escaping with life, had suffered very severely from hunger, +thirst, and fatigue. I have no reason to doubt the veracity of one of +these enterprising tourists, who assured me that he had passed through +the holy city of Mecca. According to his account, he had made friends +with an Arab boy, who offered to afford him a glimpse of the city, +provided he would consent to pass rapidly through it, at an early hour +in the morning. Accordingly, disguised in Mohamedan garb, and mounted +upon a camel, they entered and quitted it at opposite ends, without +exciting curiosity or remark. Of course, he could see nothing but the +exterior of the houses and mosques, only obtaining a partial view of +these; but, considering the difficulty and peril of the undertaking, +the pleasure of being able to say that he had succeeded in an +achievement which few would be daring enough to attempt, was worth +running some risks. + +Notwithstanding the intolerant spirit generally manifested by the +Arabs, those English strangers who embrace their way of life for a +time frequently attach them very strongly to their persons, obtaining +concessions from them which could scarcely be expected from a +people so bigoted in their religious opinions, and entertaining so +contemptible an opinion of those who are followers of other creeds. In +spite of the faults of his character--for he is frequently deceitful, +treacherous, cruel, and covetous--the Arab of the desert is usually +much respected by the dwellers in towns. His independent spirit +is admired by those who could not exist without the comforts and +conveniences of life, which he disdains. It is no uncommon sight, +either at Cairo or Alexandria, to see a handsome young Bedouin, +splendidly attired, lodging in the open street by the side of his +camel, for nothing will persuade him to sleep in a house; he +carries the habits of the desert into the city, and in the midst of +congregated thousands, dwells apart. + +We, who merely crossed the desert from Cairo to Suez, could form +little idea of the pleasures which a longer sojourn and more extended +researches would afford--the poetry of the life which the Arab leads. +Nothing, I was told, could exceed the enjoyments of the night, when, +after a day of burning heat, the cool breezes came down from elevated +valleys, occurring between the ranges of hills which I had observed +with so much interest. This balmy air brings with it perfumes wafted +from sweet-scented flowers, which spring spontaneously in the green +spots known to the gazelle, who repairs to them to drink. Although +the dews are heavy, the Arab requires no more protection than that +afforded by his blanket, and he lies down under the most glorious +canopy, the broad vault of heaven with its countless spangles, no +artificial object intervening throughout the large circle of that wide +horizon. Here, his ablutions, prayers, and evening-meal concluded, +he either sinks into profound repose, or listens to the tales of +his companions, of daring deeds and battles long ago, or the equally +interesting though less exciting narratives of passing events; some +love-story between persons of hostile tribes, or the affection of a +betrothed girl for a stranger, and its melancholy consequences. + +Notwithstanding the slight estimation in which the sex is held by the +fierce and jealous Arab--jealous more from self-love than from any +regard to the object that creates this feeling--there is still much of +the romantic to be found in his domestic history. English travellers, +who have acquired a competent knowledge of the language, may collect +materials for poems as tragical and touching as those which Lord Byron +loved to weave. I could relate several in this place, picked up by my +fellow-travellers, but as they may at some period or other desire +to give them to the public themselves, it would be scarcely fair to +anticipate their intention. + +We now began to look out with some anxiety for the arrival of the +steamer at Bombay, speculating upon the chances of finding friends +able to receive us. As we drew nearer and nearer, the recollection of +the good hotels which had opened their hospitable doors for us in +the most unpromising places, caused us to lament over the absence of +similar establishments at the scene of our destination. Bombay has +been aptly denominated the landing-place of India; numbers of persons +who have no acquaintance upon the island pass through it on their way +to Bengal, or to the provinces, and if arriving by the Red Sea, are +totally unprovided with the means of making themselves comfortable in +the tents that may be hired upon their landing. + +A tent, to a stranger in India, appears to be the most forlorn +residence imaginable, and many cannot be reconciled to it, even +after long custom. To those, however, who do not succeed in obtaining +invitations to private houses, a tent is the only resource. It seems +scarcely possible that the number of persons, who are obliged to +live under canvas on the Esplanade, would not prefer apartments at a +respectable hotel, if one should be erected for the purpose; yet it +is said that such an establishment would not answer. Bombay can never +obtain the pre-eminence over Calcutta, which it is so anxious to +accomplish, until it will provide the accommodation for visitors which +the City of Palaces has afforded during several years past. However +agreeable the overland journey may be, it cannot be performed without +considerable fatigue. + +The voyage down the Red Sea, in warm weather especially, occasions +a strong desire for rest; even those persons, therefore, who are so +fortunate as to be carried off to friends' houses, immediately upon +their arrival, would much prefer the comfort and seclusion of a +hotel, for the first day or two at least. The idea of going amongst +strangers, travel-soiled and travel-worn, is anything but agreeable, +more particularly with the consciousness that a week's baths will +scarcely suffice to remove the coal-dust collected in the steamers of +the Red Sea: for my own part, I contemplated with almost equal alarm +the prospect of presenting myself immediately upon the termination of +my voyage, or of being left, on the charge of eight rupees _per diem_, +to the tender mercies of the vessel. + +We entered the harbour of Bombay in the evening of the 29th of +October, too late to contemplate the beauty of its scenery, there +being unfortunately no moon. As soon as we dropped anchor, a scene of +bustle and excitement took place. The boxes containing the mails were +all brought upon deck, the vessel was surrounded with boats, and the +first news that greeted our ears--news that was communicated with +great glee--was the damage done by fire to the _Atalanta_ steamer. +This open manifestation, by the officers of the Indian navy, of +dislike to a service to which they belong, is, to say the least of it, +ill-judged. A rapid increase in the number of armed steam-vessels may +be calculated upon, while the destruction of half of those at present +employed would scarcely retard the progress of this mighty power--a +power which may alter the destinies of half the world. The hostility, +therefore, of persons who cannot hope by their united opposition to +effect the slightest change in the system, becomes contemptible. + +It is a wise proverb which recommends us not to show our teeth unless +we can bite. To expose the defects of steamers, may produce their +remedy; but to denounce them altogether, is equally useless and +unwise, since, however inconvenient they may be, no person, with +whom despatch is an object, will hesitate to prefer them to a +sailing-vessel; while every officer, who takes the Queen's or the +Company's pay, should consider it to be his duty to uphold the service +which tends to promote the interests of his country. + + + + +CHAPTER IX. + + * * * * * + +BOMBAY. + + * * * * * + + Contrast between landing at Bombay and at Calcutta--First feelings + those of disappointment--Aspect of the place improves--Scenery of the + Island magnificent, abounding with fine Landscapes--Luxuriance and + elegance of the Palms--Profusion and contrast of the Trees--Multitude + of large Houses in Gardens--Squalid, dirty appearance of the + Native Crowd--Costume of the Natives--Inferior to the Costume of + Bengal--Countenances not so handsome--The Drive to the Fort--The + Burrah Bazaar--Parsee Houses--"God-shops" of the Jains--General use + of Chairs amongst the Natives--Interior of the Native Houses--The + Sailors' Home--The Native Town--Improvements--The Streets animated + and picturesque--Number of Vehicles--The Native Females--The Parsee + Women--The Esplanade--Tents and Bungalows--The Fort--The China + Bazaar--A Native School--Visit to a Parsee Warehouse--Seal ornamental + China-ware--Apprehension of Fire in the Fort--Houses fired by + Rats--Illumination of Native Houses--Discordant noise of Native + Magic--The great variety of Religions in Bombay productive of + lamp-lighting and drumming. + + +The bunder, or pier, where passengers disembark upon their arrival in +Bombay, though well-built and convenient, offers a strong contrast +to the splendours of Chandpaul Ghaut in Calcutta; neither are the +bunder-boats at all equal in elegance to the budgerows, bohlias, and +other small craft, which we find upon the Hooghley. There is nothing +to indicate the wealth or the importance of the presidency to be +seen at a glance; the Scottish church, a white-washed building of no +pretensions, being the most striking object from the sea. Landward, a +range of handsome houses flank so dense a mass of buildings, occupying +the interior of the Fort, as to make the whole appear more like a +fortified town than a place of arms, as the name would denote. The +tower of the cathedral, rising in the centre, is the only feature in +the scene which boasts any architectural charm; and the Esplanade, +a wide plain, stretching from the ramparts to the sea, is totally +destitute of picturesque beauty. + +The first feelings, therefore, are those of disappointment, and it +is not until the eye has been accustomed to the view, that it becomes +pleased with many of the details; the interest increasing with the +development of other and more agreeable features, either not seen at +all, or seen through an unfavourable medium. The aspect of the place +improved, as, after crossing the Esplanade or plain, the carriage +drove along roads cut through palm-tree woods, and at length, when I +reached my place of destination, I thought that I had never seen any +thing half so beautiful. + +The apartments which, through the kindness of hospitable friends, I +called my own, commanded an infinite variety of the most magnificent +scenery imaginable. To the left, through a wide vista between two +hills, which seemed cleft for the purpose of admitting the view, lay +the placid waters of the ocean, land-locked, as it were, by the +bold bluff of distant islands, and dotted by a fairy fleet of +fishing-boats, with their white sails glittering in the sun. In front, +over a beautifully-planted fore-ground, I looked down upon a perfect +sea of palms, the taller palmyras lifting their proud heads above the +rest, and all so intermingled with other foliage, as to produce the +richest variety of hues. This fine wood, a spur of what may be termed +a forest further to the right, skirted a broad plain which stretched +out to the beach, the bright waters beyond expanding and melting +into the horizon, while to the right it was bounded by a hilly ridge +feathered with palm-trees, the whole bathed in sunshine, and forming +altogether a perfect Paradise. + +Every period of the day, and every variation in the state of the +atmosphere, serve to bring out new beauties in this enchanting scene; +and the freshness and delicious balm of the morning, the gorgeous +splendour of mid-day, the crimson and amber pomps of evening, and the +pale moonlight, tipping every palm-tree top with silver, produce an +endless succession of magical effects. In walking about the garden and +grounds of this delightful residence, we are continually finding +some new point from which the view appears to be more beautiful than +before. Upon arriving at the verge of the cleft between the two hills, +we look down from a considerable elevation over rocky precipitous +ground, with a village (Mazagong) skirting the beach, while the +prospect, widening, shows the whole of the harbour, with the high +ghauts forming the back-ground. + +Turning to the other side, behind the hill which shuts out the sea, +the landscape is of the richest description--roads winding through +thick plantations, houses peeping from embowering trees, and an +umbrageous forest beyond. The whole of Bombay abounds with landscapes +which, if not equal to that from Chintapooglee Hill, which I have, +vainly I fear, attempted to describe, boast beauties peculiarly their +own, the distinguishing feature being the palm-tree. It is impossible +to imagine the luxuriance and elegance of this truly regal family as +it grows in Bombay, each separate stage, from the first appearance +of the different species, tufting the earth with those stately crowns +which afterwards shoot up so grandly, being marked with beauty. The +variety of the foliage of the coco-nut, the brab, and others, +the manner of their growth, differing according to the different +directions taken, and the exquisite grouping which continually occurs, +prevent the monotony which their profusion might otherwise create, +the general effect being, under all circumstances, absolutely perfect. +Though the principal, the palm is far from being the only tree, and +while frequently forming whole groves, it is as frequently blended +with two species of cypress, the peepul, mango, banian, wild cinnamon, +and several others. + +In addition to the splendour of its wood and water, Bombay is +embellished by fragments of dark rock, which force themselves through +the soil, roughening the sides of the hills, and giving beauty to +the precipitous heights and shelving beach. Though the island is +comparatively small, extensively cultivated and thickly inhabited, +it possesses its wild and solitary places, its rains deeply seated +in thick forests, and its lonely hills covered with rock, and thinly +wooded by the eternal palm-tree; hills which, in consequence of +the broken nature of the ground, and their cavernous recesses, are +difficult of access. It is in these fastnesses that the hyenas find +secure retreats, and the Parsees construct their "towers of silence." + +There is little, or indeed nothing, in the scenery that comes under +the denomination of jungle, the island being intersected in every +part with excellent roads, macadamized with the stone that abounds +so conveniently for the purpose. These roads are sometimes skirted by +walls of dark stone, which harmonize well with the trees that +never fail to spread their shade above; at others, with beautiful +hedge-rows, while across the flats and along the Esplanade, a +water-course or a paling forms the enclosures. + +The multitude of large houses, each situated in the midst of gardens +or ornamented grounds, gives a very cheerful appearance to the roads +of Bombay; but what the stranger on his first arrival in India is +said to be most struck with is, the number and beauty of the +native population. Probably, had I never seen Bengal, I might +have experienced similar delight and astonishment; but with the +recollections of Calcutta fresh in my mind, I felt disappointed. + +Accustomed to multitudes of fine-looking well-dressed people, with +their ample and elegant drapery of spotless white muslin, I could not +help contrasting them with the squalid, dirty appearance of the +native crowd of Bombay. Nor is it so easy at first to distinguish the +varieties of the costume through the one grand characteristic of dirt; +nor, with the exception of the peculiar Parsee turban, which is very +ugly, the Persian cap, and the wild garb of the Arab, do they differ +so widely as I expected. For instance; the Hindus and Mohamedans are +not so easily recognized as in Bengal. The vest in ordinary wear, +instead of being fitted tightly to the figure, and having that +peculiarly elegant cut which renders it so graceful, seems nothing +more than a loose bed-gown, coarse in materials and tasteless in +shape: this forms the most common costume. The higher classes of +Parsees wear an ample and not unbecoming dress; the upper garment +of white cambric muslin fits tightly to the waist, where it is bound +round with a sash or cummurbund of white muslin; it then descends in +an exceedingly full skirt to the feet, covering a pair of handsome +silk trowsers. A Parsee group, thus attired, in despite of their mean +and unbecoming head-dress, make a good appearance. + +The Arabs wear handkerchiefs or shawls, striped with red, yellow, and +blue, bound round their heads, or hanging in a fanciful manner over +their turbans. The Persian dress is grave and handsome, and there +are, besides, Nubians, Chinese, and many others; but the well-dressed +people must be looked for in the carriages, few of the same +description are to be seen on foot, which gives to a crowd in Bengal +so striking an appearance. In fact, a Bengallee may be recognized at +a glance by his superior costume, and in no place is the contrast more +remarkable than in the halls and entrances of Anglo-Indian houses. The +servants, if not in livery--and it is difficult to get them to +wear one, the dignity of caste interfering--are almost invariably +ill-dressed and slovenly in their appearance. We see none of the +beautifully plaited and unsullied white turbans; none of the fine +muslin dresses and well-folded cummurbunds; the garments being +coarse, dirty, scanty, and not put on to advantage. Neither are the +countenances so handsome or the forms so fine; for though a very +considerable degree of beauty is to be found of person and feature +amid many classes of Parsees, Jews, Hindus, and Mohamedans, it is not +so general as in Bengal, where the features are usually so finely cut, +and the eyes so splendid. + +Nevertheless, although my admiration has never been so strongly +excited, and I was in the first instance greatly disappointed, every +time I go abroad I become more reconciled to this change, and more +gratified by the various objects which attract my attention; and there +are few things that please me more than a drive to the Fort. + +It is very difficult, perhaps impossible, to convey any idea of +the lively scene which is presented in this excursion, or the great +variety of features which it embraces. Enclosures sprinkled over with +palm-trees, and filled with a herd of buffaloes, occur close to a +farm-house, which looks absolutely English; then we come to a +cluster of huts of the most miserable description, occupying some low +situation, placed absolutely on the ground, and scantily thatched with +palm branches; stately mansions now arise to view, and then there is +a row of small but apparently comfortable dwellings, habitations being +thickly scattered over fields and gardens, until we reach what has +been denominated the Black Town, but which is now generally known as +the Burrah Bazaar. This is now a broad street, and, without exception, +one of the most curious places I have ever beheld. It is said to have +been much improved during late administrations, and, forming the high +road to the Fort, is the avenue most frequented in the native town +by Europeans. The buildings on either side are very irregular, and of +various descriptions; some consist of ranges of small shops, with +a story above in a very dilapidated and tumble-down condition. Then +comes a row of large mansions of three floors, which look very much +like the toy baby-houses constructed for children in England, the +windows being so close together, and the interiors so public; +others intervene, larger, more solid, and irregular, but exceedingly +picturesque. + +Most of the better kind of houses are ascended by a flight of +steps, which leads to a sort of verandah, formed by the floor above +projecting over it, and being supported by wooden pillars or other +frame-work in front. In the Parsee houses of this kind, there is +usually a niche in this lower portion for a lamp, which is kept always +burning. In some places, the houses are enclosed in courtyards, and +at others a range of dwellings, not very unlike the alms-houses in +England, are divided from the road by a low wall, placed a few yards +in the front, and entered at either end by gateways. These houses have +a very comfortable appearance, and the shading of a few palm-trees +completes a rather pretty picture. There are two mosques, one on +either side of this street, which are handsomely constructed, and +would be great embellishments to the scene, were they not so painfully +whiter-washed. + +A peculiar class of Hindus, the Jains, have also what have not been +inappropriately termed "god-shops," for they certainly have not the +slightest appearance of temples. These pagodas, if they may be so +styled, are nothing more than large houses, of three floors, with +balconies running in front, the heavy wooden frame-work that supports +them being painted a dark dingy red, and the walk adorned with +representations of deities, executed in a variety of colours, and of +the most nondescript character. The interiors appear to be decorated +in the same manner, as they are seen through the open windows and by +the light of many lamps suspended from the ceilings. The ringing +of bells, and the full attendance of priests and worshippers of an +evening, show the purpose to which these houses are dedicated, and +superstition is here exhibited in its most revolting aspect, for there +is no illusion to cheat the fancy--no beautiful sequestered pagoda, +with its shadowing trees and flower-strewed courts, to excite poetical +ideas--all being coarse, vulgar, and contemptible. + +Great numbers of artizans are to be seen at work in their respective +shops in this bazaar, copper-smiths particularly, who seem an +industrious race, toiling by lamp-light long after the day has +completely closed. There are also _caravanserais_ and _cafés_, where +the country and religion of the owner may be known by the guests +congregated about his gate. Groups of Persians are seen seated on the +outside smoking; the beautiful cats, which they have brought down +for sale, sporting at their feet. A few yards farther on, the Arab +horse-dealers, in front of their stables, are equally conspicuous, and +it is easy to perceive, by the eager glances with which some of these +men survey the English carriages bearing fair freights of ladies +along, that they have never visited an European settlement before. + +My former visit to India enabling me to observe the differences +between two of our presidencies, I was particularly struck, on my +arrival at Bombay, with the general use of chairs among the natives; +none but the very meanest description of houses seem to be entirely +destitute of an article of furniture scarcely known in the native +habitations of Bengal; and these seats seem to be preferred to +the more primitive method of squatting on the ground, which +still prevails, the number of chairs in each mansion being rather +circumscribed, excepting in the best houses, where they abound. Sofas +and divans, though seen, are not so common as in Egypt, and perhaps +the divan, properly speaking, is not very usual. + +The cheapness of oil, and in all probability the example shown by the +Parsees, render lamps very abundant. The common kind of hall-lamp of +England, of different sizes and different colours, is the prevailing +article; these are supplied with a tumbler half-filled with water, +having a layer of oil upon the top, and two cotton-wicks. As I lose +no opportunity whatever of looking into the interiors of the native +houses, I have been often surprised to see one of these lamps +suspended in a very mean apartment of a cottage, boasting few other +articles of furniture, which, nevertheless, in consequence of its +cleanliness, and the excellence of the light afforded, possessed +an air of comfort. In fact, many of the houses, whose exteriors are +anything but promising, are very well fitted up in the inside; many +of the apartments are panelled with wood, handsomely carved, and have +ceilings and floors of the same, either painted of a dark colour, or +highly polished. In the evening, the windows being all open, and the +lamps lighted, a foil view may be obtained of these apartments. + +Many of the houses appear to be kept entirely for show, since in +all my peregrinations I have never seen any human being in the upper +chambers, although illuminated every night. In others, there can be +no doubt concerning the fact of their having inhabitants, since the +owners do not scruple to go to bed with the windows open and the lamps +burning, not disturbed in their repose by the certainty of being seen +by every passer-by, or by the noise and bustle of the street. + +The bazaar ends at the commencement of the Esplanade, in a large +building, wooden-fronted, of a circular form, and not unhandsome, +which is decorated with a flag upon the roof, and is called "The +Sailors' Home." Its verandahs and open windows often display our +jovial tars enjoying themselves in an asylum which, though evil has +been spoken against it, is said to be well-conducted, and to prevent a +very thoughtless class of persons from falling into worse hands. + +The native town extends considerably on either side of the principal +avenue, one road leading through the coco-nut gardens, presenting a +great variety of very interesting features; that to the left is more +densely crowded, there being a large and well-frequented cloth bazaar, +besides a vast number of shops and native houses, apparently of +considerable importance. Here the indications shown of wealth and +industry are exceedingly gratifying to an eye delighting in the sight +of a happy and flourishing population. There are considerable spaces +of ground between these leading thoroughfares, which, by occasional +peeps down intersecting lanes, seem to be covered with a huddled +confusion of buildings, and, until the improvements which have +recently taken place, the whole of the town seems to have been nearly +in the same state. + +The processes of widening, draining, pulling down, and rebuilding, +appear to have been carried on very extensively; and though much, +perhaps, remains to be done in the back settlements, where buffaloes +may be seen wading through the stagnant pools, the eye is seldom +offended, or the other senses disagreeably assailed, in passing +through this populous district. The season is, however, so favourable, +the heat being tempered by cool airs, which render the sunshine +endurable, that Bombay, under its present aspect, may be very +different from the Bombay of the rains or of the very hot weather. The +continual palm-trees, which, shooting up in all directions, add grace +and beauty to every scene, must form terrible receptacles for malaria; +the fog and mist are said to cling to their branches and hang round +them like a cloud, when dispersed by sun or wind elsewhere; the very +idea suggesting fever and ague. + +Though, as I have before remarked, the contrast between the muslined +millions of Bengal and the less tastefully clad populace of Bombay is +unfavourable, still the crowds that fill the streets here are animated +and picturesque. There is a great display of the liveliest colours, +the turbans being frequently of the brightest of yellows, crimsons, or +greens. + +The number of vehicles employed is quite extraordinary, those of the +merely respectable classes being chiefly bullock-carts; these are of +various descriptions, the greater number being of an oblong square, +and furnished with seats across (after the fashion of our taxed +carts), in which twelve persons, including women and children, are +frequently accommodated. It is most amusing to see the quantity of +heads squeezed close together in a vehicle of this kind, and the +various contrivances resorted to in order to accommodate a more than +sufficient number of personages in other conveyances, not so well +calculated to hold them. Four in a buggy is a common complement, and +six or nine persons will cram themselves into so small a space, that +you wonder how the vehicle can possibly contain the bodies of all the +heads seen looking out of it. The carts are chiefly open, but there +are a few covered _rhuts_, the conveyances probably of rich Hindu or +Mohamedan ladies, who do not content themselves, like the Parsees, +with merely covering their heads with the veil. + +Young Parsee women of the better class are frequently to be seen in +carriages with their male relations, nor do they object to appear +publicly in the streets following wedding processions. They are the +only well-dressed or nice-looking women who drive or walk about the +streets or roads. The lower classes of females in Bombay are the most +unprepossessing people I ever saw. In Bengal, the _saree_, though +rather too scanty, is a graceful costume, and at a little distance +appears to be a modest covering. Here it is worn very differently, and +without the slightest attempt at delicacy or grace, the drapery being +in itself insufficient, and rendered more offensive by the method of +its arrangement. + +The Parsee women are, generally speaking, of fair complexions, with +small features, and a very sweet expression of countenance; many +of them are exceedingly pretty, and they all dress gracefully and +becomingly. Very respectable females of this class are to be seen +walking about, showing by their conduct that propriety of behaviour +does not consist in seclusion, or the concealment of the face. + +There is an innate delicacy and refinement about Parsee women which +commands respect, and their value is known and acknowledged by +their male relatives, who treat them with a degree of deference and +consideration which is highly creditable to both parties. Though the +men are found in service in every European family, they do not allow +their wives and daughters to become domestics to foreigners, and they +are only permitted to become servants to their own people. The higher +classes of natives have adopted European equipages, and are the owners +of the handsomest carriages and horses in Bombay. Chariots, barouches, +britschkas, and buggies, appear in great numbers, filled with +Mohamedan, Hindu, or Parsee gentlemen. The less fashionable use the +palanquin carriage, common in Bengal, but which at this place is +called a _shigram_; these are often crammed full of servants and +children. + +Upon emerging from the bazaar, we enter upon the wide plain called the +Esplanade. To the left, across an extensive parade-ground, appears the +Fort, which is seen to the best advantage from this point; the walls +are low, and afford an ample view of a range of three-storied houses, +having verandahs all the way up, called Rampart Row, and from which +one or two very splendid mansions stand out conspicuously. To the +right, there is a whole encampment of tents, these canvas dwellings +being the sole refuge for the destitute. They may be hired in any +number and of every degree of elegance, none, however, quite reaching +to the refinements of Bengal, or being supplied with glass doors and +windows. Beyond the tents, and quite close to the beach, is the +space allotted for the temporary bungalows erected during the cold +season--singular places, which will be more fully described under the +head of Anglo-Indian residences. In front, and close to the warf or +bunder, are immense irregular piles of cotton in bales, which at a +distance appear like fortifications, and upon a nearer approach assume +somewhat of a picturesque air. + +The Fort is surrounded on the land-side with a moat, and is entered +through some very shabby gateways. The interior of this extensive work +presents a busy, bustling scene; its numerous houses being arranged +with some degree of regularity in streets and open places. Those +who content themselves, however, with driving through the European +portion, will have very little idea of the true character of the +place. Rampart Row--the avenues leading into a large open space, in +which stand the cathedral, the town-hall, the mint, a cavalry +barrack, &c.--and the immediate environs, are composed of lofty, +well-constructed houses, some standing a little apart in courtyards, +and others with a narrow platform in front, ascended by steps, and +roofed by the story above. This, as I have previously stated, is the +general method of building in Bombay. These streets have somewhat of +an European, though not an English, air, but are for the most part +tenanted by natives, who may be seen at the windows of every floor, +and who apparently are better lodged, at least according to our idea, +than the same class in Calcutta. In this part of the Fort there +are several shops, or rather warehouses, for the sale of European +goods--dingy places, having a melancholy assortment of faded articles +in dim glass cases, freshness and variety in the merchandize depending +upon shipping arrivals. + +Earthenware, glass, and cutlery, are abundant; but, altogether, there +is nothing at present to compare with the first-rate establishments of +Calcutta--such as Tulloh's, for instance--the whole style being dirty +and slovenly. A very civil native, named Muncherjee, who calls +himself a milliner, has, I am informed, very frequently well-chosen +investments to dispose of, but upon my visits I have seen nothing +wearable in the shape of bonnets and caps. An English milliner resides +in his neighbourhood, who possesses both skill and taste, and makes +up her silks and gauzes after the best French models; but necessarily, +perhaps, the purchases made at her rooms are rather expensive. + +There is quite enough of bustle and animation in this quarter of the +Fort to engage the attention, but it seems silent and deserted when +compared with the crowd of the more exclusively native portions. +Here the streets literally swarm with life--men, women, children, and +bullocks, filling them almost to suffocation. Ranges of open shops +appear on each side, raised a foot or two from the ground, the +occupant being seated upon a ledge in front, in the midst of +his wares. Here, too, immense quantities of English glass and +crockery-ware are exhibited, which may be purchased at a much cheaper +rate than in shops styled, _par distinction_, European. + +One or two opportunities offering for a visit to what is called the +China Bazaar, I gladly availed myself of them, and was much amused, +as the carriage made its slow way through the multitudes that thronged +the streets, to observe the employments of the people, buying, +selling, manufacturing their goods, or, for want of something else to +do, dragging little children in carts, which, by some contrivance, ran +back across the floor of the narrow apartment, and were then impelled +forward again by means of a string. This I found to be a favourite +occupation, and I never in any place saw more fondness manifested +towards children by their parents than in Bombay, or a greater desire +to associate them in all their amusements. At length, the carriage +stopped at a gateway, and upon alighting, I found myself in the midst +of a crowd of little children--an infant school, in fact, composed +indiscriminately of boys and girls. They were, generally speaking, +very pretty, and all well-dressed, many being adorned with very +handsome jewels. + +The pedagogue--a Parsee, and rather a young man--with the barbarity +common to his class, was in the act of inflicting corporal punishment +upon a poor little creature, whom he beat upon the feet (ornamented, +by the way, with rich anclets) with a rod of split bamboo. I commanded +him to forbear, but speaking half in English and half in Hindustanee, +made myself better understood by look and gesture than by words. The +unhappy infant seemed to know that I interfered in its behalf, for +it gazed upon me with a piteous but grateful expression; it could not +have been more than three years old, and was really very pretty +and interesting in its tears. It was evidently the child of wealthy +parents, being dressed in a silk shirt embroidered and trimmed with +silver, a cap of the same upon its head, and numerous jewels besides. +The whole of the Lilliputian assembly uttered their lesson as I +passed, all raising their voices at the same time, and rendering it, I +imagine, rather difficult to determine whether each pupil repeated his +or her part correctly. + +I would fain have lingered for a few minutes, but my attendants +officiously showing the way, I walked across a paved yard and up two +flights of steps to the shop of which I came in search, which was kept +by a good-looking Parsee. The trade of this person was designated +as that of a _bottlee wallah_, which being literally rendered means +'bottle-fellow,' but, according to a more free translation, a dealer +in glass, lamps, candlesticks, preserved meats in tin-cases, &c. &c. +I found a vast stock of the articles most in request in Indian +housekeeping, such as wall-shades, and all descriptions of earthen and +hard-ware, all of which he sold at very moderate prices, but having +executed the part of my commission which related to candlesticks, I +was unable to find the more _recherché_ articles of which I came in +quest. + +I had been told that a great variety of ornamental china, the real +product of the Celestial Empire, was to be seen in the native shops +in Bombay. Though showy in appearance, this sort of china is of little +value, except to mark how much the manufacture has degenerated since +Europeans have learned to make their own teacups. I wished to obtain +a few specimens, but could not succeed. My friend, the bottlee wallah, +though very civil, could not afford me the information I required, +nor have I yet been able to obtain it. I have seen some handsome jars, +plates such as are used in England for the deposit of visitors' cards, +&c., which were purchased for a few annas, and have been told that +I might procure any quantity I pleased, but the where is still a +mystery. + +All the information obtainable in Bombay must be fished out in an +extraordinary manner, both natives and Europeans seeming to make it a +rule never to commit themselves by a direct reply to any question; +in every single instance, up to the present time, I have always, upon +making an inquiry, been referred to somebody else. Neither do I +find the same zeal manifested in the servants, which amounts to +officiousness on the other side of India. I have sent them to purchase +the china, but can get nothing but rubbish, knowing all the while that +there are plenty of a better description to be had. + +Upon my return, the bottlee wallah accompanied me to the carriage in +waiting, and as I paused to notice some of the children in the school, +introduced me to a group of his own sons and daughters, well decked +out in jewels, and otherwise richly dressed. The instruction given at +these schools I understood to be merely oral, the repetition of a few +verses, intended rather to pass away the time and keep the children +out of mischief, than as a foundation of more useful studies. I +hope that the system will be improved, for the pupils seemed to be +extremely intelligent, and capable of better things. + +Returning home, I passed several shops, in which the artizans of a +very beautiful manufacture, peculiar to Bombay, were at work. Desks, +dressing-cases, work-boxes, card-cases, ink-stands, and a variety of +other ornamental fancy articles, are made of sandal-wood, covered and +inlaid with ivory, ebony, and a material resembling silver. They copy +the best patterns, and produce exceedingly elegant appendages for +the drawing or dressing-room tables. A desk, handsomely fitted up and +lined with velvet, is sold for seven or eight pounds; large ink-stands +and blotting books for twenty rupees, and card-cases for six or eight. + +It is impossible, while perambulating the Fort of Bombay, to avoid +a feeling of apprehension concerning a catastrophe, which sooner or +later seems certain to happen, and which nothing short of a miracle +appears to prevent from taking place every night; I mean the +destruction of the whole by fire. All the houses are constructed of +the most combustible materials, and the greater number belonging to +the native quarter are thatched. Though contrary to law, many of the +warehouses contain gunpowder, while the immense quantity of oil +and spirits stored up in them would render a conflagration, once +commenced, most fearful. Few or no precautions seem to be taken by the +natives against fire. There are lights burning in every room of every +house, fires are continually made outside, whence a single spark +might set the whole in flames; and added to these dangers, are the +prejudices of the great number of the inhabitants, whose religious +feelings would prevent them from making the slightest endeavour to +stay the progress of the element which they worship. Nor would the +destruction of property be the sole danger. It is terrible to think +of the fearful risk of life in a place in which escape would be so +difficult. The gates of the Fort are few in number, and of narrow +dimensions; a new one is now constructing, probably with some view +to an emergence of the kind. The natives, upon the occasion of its +proposal, evinced their readiness to assist in the execution of a plan +so advantageous to the place of their abode, and immediately advanced +half the sum which this necessary improvement would cost--namely, +thirty thousand rupees--which were subscribed and paid into the +treasury in the course of a week. + +In 1803 or 1804, a very destructive conflagration actually took place +in the Fort of Bombay, and upon that occasion, in order to save the +castle, which did then, and does now, contain an immense quantity of +gunpowder, the authorities were obliged to bring out cannon to batter +down the surrounding houses, for the purpose of arresting the progress +of the flames. When the place was rebuilt, many salutary regulations +were made to prevent the recurrence of so great a calamity, and could +all the plans of Government have been accomplished, the danger which +now threatens Bombay would have been very considerably lessened; but +it was found impossible to carry out all the objects contemplated, +in consequence of the great value of the property which they would +affect. + +The land within the walls of the Fort has become in a great measure +private property, and the convenience of its contiguity to the harbour +is so great, and the natives entertain so strong an idea of security +in a residence in a fortified place, however disqualified to resist +a hostile force, that nothing would prevail upon them to relinquish +their houses. The higher classes are well aware of the hazards they +incur, but, like the dwellers in the neighbourhood of a volcano, are +unwilling to quit a place endeared to them by long residence, though +they know not the hour in which they may be buried beneath its smoking +ruins. There are only a few Europeans who continue to inhabit the +Fort, but it must contain a very considerable portion of the property +of those merchants who have their offices and warehouses within its +walls. The British authorities have taken all the precautions in +their power, the fire-engines have been placed in a state of greater +efficiency than heretofore, while, should an extensive fire take +place, everything that European strength and skill could accomplish +would be attempted. + +Amongst the various accidents to which houses in Bombay are subjected, +the one to be most apprehended, that of fire, is often brought about +by rats. They will carry off a lighted candle at every convenient +opportunity, setting fire to dwellings by this means. They have been +also known to upset tumblers containing oil, which is thus spread +abroad and likely to be ignited by the falling wick. It is, perhaps, +impossible totally to exterminate this race of vermin, which in the +Fort set cats completely at defiance, but something might be done to +keep the population down. I have been told that there are places in +the more crowded portion rendered perfectly impassable at night in +consequence of the effluvia arising from the immense quantities of +musk rats, which, together with the common sort, and bandicoots of an +incredible size, abound, the narrow close lanes being apparently +built for the purpose of affording accommodation to vermin of every +description. Nevertheless, some of the native houses of the Fort would +form very agreeable residences to persons accustomed to the utmost +refinement. Being exceedingly lofty, the upper apartments have the +advantage of every breeze that blows, while the views both of sea and +land are splendid. + +The immense size of these houses, and the elegance of their +decorations, evince the spirit and wealth of their owners; they become +absolutely beacons at night, in consequence of the frequency and the +extent of their illuminations. Numerous are the occasions, either of +holidays or other rejoicings, in which the natives of Bombay light +up their houses; rows of lamps hung along the wide fronts of the +verandahs, upon every floor, produce a good effect, which is often +heightened by the flood of light poured out of apartments decorated +with chandeliers and lamps of every description. + +In passing through the bazaar at night, every third or fourth house +is lit up upon some festive occasion; one favourite and very pretty +method consists of a number of small lamps, arranged to resemble +bunches of grapes, and hung up in the trees of a court-yard. Sometimes +in the evening, a sort of market is held in the native town beyond +the Esplanade, and every stall is profusely lighted; the hawkers, +who carry about their goods in a more humble way upon their heads in +baskets, have them stuck with candles, and the wild shadowy effects +produced, amid the quaint buildings thus partially lighted, afford a +continual phantasmagoria. + +They must be destitute of imagination, indeed, who cannot find +pleasure in the contemplation of the night-scenes of Bombay, either +from its native crowds, or the delicious solitudes of its sylvan +shades. The ear is the only organ absolutely unblest in this sunny +island, the noises being incessant, and most discordant; the shrieking +of jackals by night is music compared to that from native instruments, +which, in the most remote places, are continually striking up: +the drums, trumpets, bells, and squeaking pipes, of a neighbouring +village, are now inflicting their torments upon my distracted brain +in the most barbarous manner possible. The exertions of the performers +never appear to relax, and by night or day, it is all the same; they +make themselves heard at any distance, parading along the roads for +the sole purpose, it should seem, of annoying the more peaceable +inhabitants. Certainly, the sister arts of music and painting have +yet to make their way in India, the taste for both being at present +perfectly barbarous. + +The European bands, when playing on the Esplanade, attract a very +considerable number of natives; but whether congregated for the +purpose of listening to the music, or merely for the sake of +passing the time, seems very doubtful. A few, certainly, manifest +a predilection for "concord of sweet sounds," and no difficulty is +experienced by band-masters in recruiting their forces from natives, +the boys learning readily, and acquitting themselves very well +upon instruments foreign to the country. There is, however, no +manifestation at present of the spread of a refined taste, and many +years will probably elapse before any thing like good music will be +common in this part of Asia. + +The great variety of religions extant in Bombay, each being +distinguished by numerous festivals, all celebrated in the same +manner--that is, by noise and illuminations--sufficiently accounts +for the perpetual recurrence of lamp-lighting and drumming in all +directions. Every week brings round the anniversary of some day of +rejoicing of the Mohamedans, Hindus, Parsees, Jews, Roman Catholics, +or Armenians, and Bombay may therefore be said to present one +universal holiday. Passing the other evening one of the handsomest +pagodas in the island, an oblong square building of yellow stone, +with a mitre-shaped tower at one end, I was surprised by the number +of European carriages in waiting. The exterior had all the air of +a Christian church, the situation beautiful, a platform of rock +overlooking the sea; and I could not help indulging the hope, that the +substitution of chariots and buggies for palanquins and _rhuts_ would +lead to the introduction of a purer and better creed. + + + + +CHAPTER X. + + * * * * * + +BOMBAY--(_Continued_). + + * * * * * + + Bombay the rising Presidency--Probability of its becoming the Seat of + Government--The Anglo-Indian Society of Bombay--Style of Living--The + Gardens inferior to those of Bengal--Interiors of the Houses more + embellished--Absence of Glass-windows an evil--The Bungalows--The + Encamping-ground--Facility and despatch of a change of + residence--Visit to a tent entertainment--Inconveniences attending a + residence in tents--Want of Hotels and Boarding-houses--Deficiency of + public Amusements in Bombay--Lectures and _Conversaziones_ suggested, + as means of bringing the native community into more frequent + intercourse with Europeans--English spoken by the superior classes + of natives--Natives form a very large portion of the wealth and + intelligence of Bombay--Nothing approaching the idea of a City to be + seen--The climate more salubrious than that of Bengal--Wind blows hot + and cold at the same time--Convenience a stranger finds in so many + domestic servants speaking English--Their peculiar mode of speaking + it--Dress of servants--Their wages--The Cooks--Improved by Lord + Clare--Appointments of the tables--The Ramoosee Watchmen--Their + vociferations during the night--Fidelity of the natives--Controversy + concerning their disregard of truth. + + +Comparisons are so frequently both unfair and invidious, that I had +determined, upon my arrival at Bombay, to abstain from making them, +and to judge of it according to its own merits, without reference to +those of the rival presidency. It was impossible, however, to adhere +to this resolution, and being called upon continually to give an +opinion concerning its claims to superiority over Calcutta, I was +reluctantly compelled to consider it in a less favourable point of +view than I should have done had the City of Palaces been left out of +the question. + +That Bombay is the rising presidency there can be no doubt, and there +seems to be every probability of its becoming the seat of the Supreme +Government; nothing short of a rail-road between the two presidencies +can avert this catastrophe; the number of days which elapse before +important news reaching Bombay can be known and acted upon by the +authorities of Calcutta rendering the measure almost imperative. +Bengal, too proudly triumphing in her greatness, has now to bear +the mortifications to which she delighted to subject Bombay, a +place contemptuously designated as "a fishing village," while its +inhabitants, in consequence of their isolated situation, were called +"the Benighted." + +Steam-communication brought the news to Bombay of the accession of +Queen Victoria to the throne of England, and this event was celebrated +at the same time that the Bengallees were toasting the health of +William the Fourth at a dinner given in honour of his birth-day. "Who +are the Benighted now?" was the universal cry; and the story is told +with great glee to all new arrivals. + +Concerning the Anglo-Indian society of Bombay, I do not pretend +to know any thing, or to give opinions which must necessarily be +premature and presumptuous. A round of dinner parties affords little +opportunity of making acquaintance; they are much the same everywhere, +and when a large company is assembled, their agreeability must +entirely depend upon the persons who occupy the neighbouring chairs. + +Bombay is accused, with what degree of justice I cannot determine, of +being a place much addicted to scandal and gossip. If this charge be +well founded, it is one which it must share in common with all limited +circles. The love of detraction is unhappily a thoroughly English +vice, flourishing under all circumstances, and quite as prevalent, +though not, perhaps, equally hurtful, in great cities as in the +smallest village. The same people who in London delight in the perusal +of newspapers of the most libellous description, and who read with +avidity every publication which attacks private character, will, when +removed into a congenial sphere, pick their neighbours to pieces; an +amusement which cannot be enjoyed in the metropolis, where happily we +do not know the names of the parties who occupy the adjoining houses. + +We are proud of our virtues, not unjustly giving ourselves credit for +many that elevate and refine the human character; but even the most +solid and the most dazzling can scarcely compensate for that one +universal sin, that want of charity, which leads English people +upon all occasions to undervalue and disparage their most intimate +acquaintance. How few will scruple to point out to others the follies +and foibles of their dearest friends, weaknesses which they have +discovered during long and familiar intercourse; and how few will +hesitate to impute the very worst motives for actions which may spring +from a laudable source, or be merely the result of thoughtlessness! +In our most Christian country, the spirit of the Christian religion is +still to be sought, and until we see stronger proofs of its influence +than can at present be shown throughout the United Kingdom, we must +not single out a remote colony as a specimen of the indulgence of a +vice common to us all. + +The great evil, which Bombay must share with other communities +similarly constituted, is the want of family ties, and the consequent +loss of all the gentle affections which spring amid a wide domestic +circle. Neither the very old nor the very young are to be found in an +Indian colony; there are few connecting links to bind the sojourners +of a foreign land together; each has a separate interest, and the +result is seen in a general want of sympathy; no one seems to enter +into the views, feelings, hopes, or objects of another. I employ +the word _seems_, since, as a stranger, I can only give my first +impressions upon the subject. + +The style of living is more easily described, and its relative +advantages determined. The Anglo-Indian residents of Bombay are, +for the most part, scattered all over the island, living in very +comfortable houses, of no great pretensions to exterior elegance, +yet having for the most part an air of home enjoyment, which suggests +pleasing ideas. One feature is very striking, the porticoes and +verandahs of many being completely covered with luxuriant flowering +creepers, which in Bengal are never suffered to be near the house, in +consequence of the harbour they are supposed to give to insects +and reptiles. The approach to these beautiful screens is, however, +frequently through a cabbage-garden, the expedience of planting out +the unsightly but useful vegetables destined for the kitchen not +having been as yet considered; neither can the gardens at this period +of the year, the cold season, compare with those of Bengal, the +expense of irrigation preventing the inhabitants from devoting so much +time and attention to their improvement, while as yet the natives +have not been encouraged to fill the bazaars with European vegetables. +Pease are spoken of as not being uncommon, but I have only seen them +once, even at the best tables. Neither have cauliflowers, French +beans, or asparagus, made their appearance--vegetables common at +Christmas all over the Bengal presidency. + +The interiors of the houses are, generally speaking, more embellished +than those of Calcutta; the greater part have handsome ceilings, and +the doorways and windows are decorated with mouldings, and otherwise +better finished. The walls also are coloured, and often very +tastefully picked out with white or some other harmonizing tint. The +reception-rooms, therefore, have not the barn-like air which detracts +from the magnitude of those of Bengal, and the furniture, if not +always equally splendid, is shown off to greater advantage; but here I +should say the superiority ends. + +Some of the small bungalows are very neatly fitted up with boarded +ceilings, a great improvement upon the cloth which conceals the +rafters in those of Bengal; others, however, are canopied with +cloth, and some there are which appear more like summer-houses +than habitations intended for Europeans throughout the year, being +destitute of glass windows, and open to all the winds of heaven. + +The frequent changes of the atmosphere which occur in Bombay, and +the danger of a touch of the land-wind, render the absence of glass +windows a very serious evil; they are, however, unknown in the +temporary bungalows erected upon the Esplanade, which seem to be +favourite residences of people who could lodge themselves more +substantially if they pleased. The barn-like thatched roofs of these +dwellings make them rather unsightly objects, though some are redeemed +by a thick drapery of creepers; but the interiors of many are of a +very pavilion-like description, and the singularity of all renders +them interesting to a stranger. + +These houses usually consist of two or more principal apartments, +united with each other by means of verandahs, and formed chiefly +of wooden frame-work panelled with canvas, with here and there a +partition of wattle and dab. They have generally large porticoes of +trellice-work in front, sufficiently spacious to allow a carriage to +drive under them, which is thus screened from the sun; these porticoes +being mantled with flowering creepers of many beautiful kinds. A sort +of garden is also formed by plants in tubs, and there is sometimes a +cultivated oval or circular space, which, in such a climate, a very +few weeks will render luxuriant. The fronts of these bungalows +face the sea, and have all the benefit of its breezes, while the +intervening space between the fort forms the parade-ground of the +garrison, and the most esteemed evening drive. + +Those who inhabit these bungalows, and who do not rise before the sun, +are subjected to all the inconveniences attending upon field practice, +the firing of musquetry and the war of cannon close to their ears, and +though favourite residences, they seem better suited to persons well +accustomed to all the vicissitudes of Anglo-Indian life than to a +stranger. For my own part, I confess a prejudice in favour of brick +and mortar, glass windows, and chimneys; and though perfectly content, +while travelling, to put up with any accommodation that may offer, +would never willingly settle down for a season in a mansion of canvas, +mat, and bamboo, where the rats have free ingress, and the atmosphere +is filled with innumerable winged insects. + +Before the general setting-in of the rains, these bungalows, I am +informed, assume a very damp and tatterdemalion appearance, and when +the skies open their flood-gates, they are obliged to be taken down +and warehoused until the following year. Some of these bungalows are +private property, others are erected by the natives and let to +their tenants at a monthly rent. In some, the sleeping and sitting +apartments are under different roofs; all have a considerable piece of +ground enclosed round them, the allotments to each party being made by +Government, and appertaining to certain appointments in the service. + +Beyond these bungalows is the encamping ground, in which certain +temporary sojourners in Bombay either pitch or hire a tent or tents, +the accommodation differing according to the expense incurred. The +superior tents--such, for instance, as that engaged by the late +admiral--are spacious and convenient; a handsome suite of apartments, +consisting of ante-room, drawing-room, and dining-room, partitioned +off by canvas curtains, which could be rolled up at pleasure, were +lighted by chandeliers suspended from the cross-poles and girandoles +against those that supported the roof; the walls were handsomely +lined, the floors covered with thick mats and carpets; nothing being +wanted to render this canvas dwelling equal in comfort and elegance to +the tents of Bengal, excepting glass doors. + +The weather, during the cold season in this part of India, is not +nearly so inclement as in Calcutta and the north-western provinces; +nevertheless, it is very desirable to shut out the keen and cutting +wind, which frequently blows during the night. The people here, +however, seem fond of living in tents, and it often happens that +gentlemen especially, who have had good houses of their own over their +heads, go to very considerable expense for the purpose of enjoying the +free air of a camp. + +I had an opportunity of seeing the facility and despatch with which +such a change of residence is managed in Bombay. Driving one evening +round the foot of a conical hill overlooking the sea, we met a party +of gentlemen who said that they were looking out for a good place to +pitch their tents, and invited us to dine with them on the following +evening at seven o'clock. As the hill was in our neighbourhood, we +ascertained at eleven o'clock the next morning that there was not a +symptom of habitation upon it; however, we were determined to keep our +engagement, and accordingly arrived at the appointed hour at the point +of the road at which a rude pathway opened. + +It was perfectly dark, but we found the place indicated by a cluster +of lamps hanging like a bunch of grapes from a tree; a palanquin was +also in waiting to carry the ladies up the hill in turn. I preferred +walking; and though my shoes and the hem of my gown were covered with +prickles and thorns, which interweaved themselves in an extraordinary +manner through a satin dress, I enjoyed the walk amazingly. A man +with a lanthorn led the way, a precaution always taken in Bombay, on +account of the alleged multitude of the snakes, and at every three or +four yards' distance, another cluster of lamps suspended from a tree +pointed out the way. + +In a few minutes we arrived at a platform of table-land on the summit +of the hill, prettily sprinkled with palm-trees, and came upon a scene +full of life, picture, and movement. The white outline of the smaller +tents had a sort of phantom look in the ambiguous light, but the open +doors of the principal one showed a strong illumination. A table, +which we might have supposed to be raised by the hand of an enchanter, +gleaming with silver, cut glass, and wax candles, was absolutely +framed in by the darkness around. Two or three horses picketed under +the trees with their grooms, cowering over fires made upon the ground, +looked very like unearthly chargers, just emerged with their grim +attendants from some subterranean kingdom; while the red glare from +the cooking tents, and the dusky figures moving about, could scarcely +be recognised as belonging to human and every-day life--the whole +scene having a supernatural air. + +The interior of the tents was extremely picturesque, fitted up with +odds and ends of foreign products, and looking very like the temporary +haunt of some pirate; tiger skins, rich soft thick rugs of Persian +manufacture, interspersed with Indian mats, covered the floors; the +tents were lined with flags, favouring the notion that the corsair's +bark lay anchored in some creek below; while daggers, and pistols, and +weapons of all kinds, helped out a fanciful imagination to a tale of +wild adventure. The butler of our host had enacted more wonders than +a man; under such circumstances, a repast of fish and curry might +have been considered a great achievement, but we had the three regular +courses, and those, too, of a most _recherché_ kind, with a dessert to +match, all sent up to the point of perfection. + +After coffee, I went out to look upon the sea, which lay like a mirror +below the perpendicular height on which I stood; and as my eyes +became accustomed to the darkness of a moonless night, I saw under +new aspects the sombre outlines of those soft hills, whose purple +loveliness I had admired so much during the day. + +I spent several pleasant evenings in these tents, which were engaged +by a young nobleman upon his travels for the purpose of escaping from +the annoyances of the Fort, and who, during his short residence under +canvas, had the advantage of the companionship of a friend, to +whose experienced servants he was indebted for the excellence of the +arrangements. + +When it is considered that these tents were pitched upon a lonely +spot, upwards of four miles from Bombay and from the bazaars, the +celerity and success with which every thing was managed will appear +quite wonderful. The tents were found to be so cold, that a gentleman +who afterwards joined the party slept in his palanquin; they were +subsequently removed, and now the palm-tree waves its broad leaves +over the lonely hill, and the prowling jackal seeks his meal +elsewhere. Tents such as those now described form the rarer and +brighter specimens, their usual character being very different. + +On the Esplanade we step at once from the ground upon a settrinjee, +which bears all the marks of having been well trodden by sandy feet; +an opening at the farther extremity shows the sea, glaring on the eye +with a hot dazzle; a table, a few chairs, with some books and papers, +perhaps, upon the ground, complete the arrangements that are visible; +while, if proceeding farther, we find ourselves in a room fitted up +as a bed-chamber, nearly as small and inconvenient as the cabin of a +ship, with a square aperture in the thin canvas wall for a window. + +These tents are dreadfully warm during the day, and exceedingly cold +at night; they are, moreover, notwithstanding their proximity to +the sea, and the benefit of its breezes, filled with mosquitoes, or +sand-flies, which are equally troublesome. Persons who contemplate a +long residence in them, keep out of the cold and heat by erecting a +chopper, or roof, formed of thatch, over them; but, in my opinion, +they are but uncomfortable residences. Many strangers, however, +arriving at Bombay, have no alternative, there being no other place +where they can find equally good accommodation. + +An hotel, it appears, has been established in the Fort, but not of a +description to suit private families or ladies; the constant arrival +of steamers full of passengers fills the houses of the residents +with a succession of guests, who would gladly put up at an hotel or +boarding-house, if such could be found, while there are besides +many ladies now in Bombay, whose husbands are in the army, living +uncomfortably either alone or going about from friend to friend's +houses, who would rejoice to be quietly and comfortably established in +a respectable boarding-house. Nothing of the kind, however, appears to +be at present in contemplation, and Bombay can never, with any +degree of justice, presume to call itself England, until it can offer +suitable accommodation to the vast numbers of strangers who land upon +its shores. + +European foreigners, who visit Bombay in a commercial capacity, find +it exceedingly _triste_; independently of private society, there is +absolutely no amusement--no play, no concert, no public assembly +of any kind; nor would it be advisable to attempt to establish an +entertainment of this nature, since there would be no chance of its +support. There is a fine building, the Town Hall, well adapted for the +purpose, but its most spacious saloon is suffered to remain empty and +unfurnished; the expense which must be incurred in the purchase +of chandeliers proving sufficient to deter the community from an +undertaking which would serve to add gaiety to a sombre scene. + +Those who have visited the Town Hall of Calcutta, and who retain a +recollection of the brilliance of its re-unions, with all their gay +variety of concert, opera, and acted charade, cannot help seeing +that Bombay lags very far behind; it is, therefore, unwise to provoke +comparisons, and the society here should rather pride itself upon what +it will do, than upon what it has done. It is, perhaps, little to be +lamented that merely frivolous amusements should be wholly confined to +the private circles of social life, but there are others which might +be cultivated with infinite advantage to the community at large, and +for which the great room at the Town Hall seems to be most admirably +adapted. + +Whether the native ear is sufficiently refined to relish the superior +performances of music, seems doubtful; but when we see so large +a portion of the society of Bombay composed of Parsee, Hindu, and +Mohamedan gentlemen, we cannot help wishing that some entertainment +should be provided for them which would attract and interest, while +it expanded the mind. A series of lectures upon popular subjects, +illustrated by entertaining experiments, might, I should think, be +introduced with good effect. The wonders of the microscope, laid open +to the eyes of intelligent persons who perfectly understand and +speak English, could scarcely fail to delight and instruct, while +the secrets of phantasmagoria, the astonishing effects produced by +electricity, the movements of the heavenly bodies exhibited in an +orrery, and, indeed, all the arcana of science, agreeably laid open, +would furnish inexhaustible funds of amusement, and lead to inquiries +of the most useful nature. Lectures, also, upon horticulture, +floriculture, &c., might be followed by much practical good; and as +there are many scientific men at the presidency who could assist one +or more lecturers engaged for the purpose, the expense of such an +institution would be materially lessened, while, if it were once +established, the probabilities are in favour of its being supported +by contributions of the necessary models, implements, &c., from the +capitals of Europe. + +It is certainly very pleasing to see the numbers of native gentlemen +of all religious persuasions, who enter into the private society +of Bombay, but I could wish that we should offer them some better +entertainment than that of looking on at the eternal quadrille, waltz, +or galoppe. They are too much accustomed to our method of amusing +ourselves to view it in the light in which it is looked upon in many +other parts of India; still, they will never, in all probability, +reconcile it to their ideas of propriety, and it is a pity that we do +not show ourselves capable of something better. Conversation at these +parties is necessarily restricted to a few commonplaces; nothing is +gained but the mere interchange of civility, and the native spectators +gladly depart, perhaps to recreate themselves with more debasing +amusements, without having gained a single new idea. + +If meetings once a fortnight, or once a month, could be held at the +Town Hall, for the purpose of diffusing useful knowledge in a popular +manner, they would not only afford amusement at the time, but subjects +also of conversation for the future. Such meetings would give no +offence to that part of the community who are averse, upon religious +principles, to cards and dancing, or dramatic amusements; and if not +rendered too abstruse, and consequently tiresome and incomprehensible +to the general auditor, must necessarily become a favourite method of +passing time now too frequently lost or mis-spent. + +The literary and scientific _conversaziones_ given by Lord Auckland, +in Calcutta, afford a precedent for an institution of the kind; the +successful features might be copied, and if there should have been any +failures, the experience thus gained would prevent similar hazards. +There seems to be no good reason why ladies should be excluded, since +the more general and extensive a plan of the kind could be made, +the greater chance there would be of a beneficial exercise of its +influence over society. + +There is a very good library attached to the Town Hall, and the germ +of a museum, which would furnish materials for much intellectual +entertainment; and there can be little doubt that, if the proposition +were judiciously made, and properly supported, the wealthy portion +of the native community would subscribe very liberally towards an +establishment so eminently calculated to interest and amuse the youth +of their families. The greater number of the sons of respectable +natives are now receiving their education at the Elphinstone College, +and these young people would understand and appreciate the advantages +of a literary and scientific institution, for the discussion and +illustration of subjects intimately connected with the end and aim +of their studies. In the course of a few years, or even less, many +of these young men would be qualified to take a leading part in the +establishment, and perhaps there would be no greater incentive to the +continuation of studies now frequently abandoned too early, for the +sake of some money-getting pursuit, than the hope that the scientific +acquirements attained at college might be turned to useful account. + +A small salary would allure many natives, who, in consequence of the +necessity which they are under of gaining their own bread, are +obliged to engage in some, perhaps not very lucrative, trade, and +who, engrossed in the gathering together o petty gains, lose all the +advantages they might otherwise have derived from a liberal education. +The difficulties which in other parts of our Asiatic territories +stand in the way of the participation of natives in the studies and +amusements of Anglo-Indian residents, in consequence of the difference +of language, are not felt in Bombay. + +All the superior classes of natives speak excellent English, the +larger portion expressing themselves with great fluency, and even +elegance. English is spoken in every shop frequented by Europeans, and +there are generally one or two servants in every family who can make +themselves understood in it. The natives form, in fact, a very +large portion of the wealth and intelligence of Bombay, and become, +consequently, an important part of its society. They are the owners +of nearly all the best houses in the island, which are not commonly +either built or purchased, as in Calcutta, by their European tenants. + +Many rich native merchants, who reside usually in the Fort, possess +splendid country mansions, to which they retire occasionally, or which +are used merely for the purpose of giving parties to their friends. +These mansions are to be recognised by the abundance of ornament, by +gateways surmounted by nondescript monsters, after the fashion of +the lions or bears of carved stone, which are sometimes seen at the +entrance of a nobleman's grounds in England. At others, they are gaily +painted in a variety of colours, while a profusion of many-coloured +lamps, hanging in the verandah and porticoes on the occasion of every +fête, shed great brilliance on the evening scene. These residences are +scattered all over Bombay, the interiors being all richly furnished, +and many fitted up with infinite taste and elegance. + +Although, as I have before remarked, these scattered houses impart an +air of rural enjoyment to the island, yet their being spread over +its whole surface prevents Bombay from appearing to be so important a +place as it is in reality. There is nothing approaching to the idea +of a city to be seen, nothing solid or substantial to indicate +the presence of wealth or of extensive commerce. Calcutta, on the +contrary, offers to the stranger's eye an aspect so striking and +imposing, brings so strongly to the mind the notion that its merchants +are princes, and that it ranks crowned heads amongst its vassals and +its tributaries, that we see at once that it must be the seat of a +powerful and permanently established government. Nor does it seem +possible, even in the event of Bombay taking the ascendance as the +capital of British India, that the proud City of Palaces shall upon +that account dwindle and sink into decay. Stranger things, and even +more melancholy destinies, have befallen the mighty Babylons of the +earth; but with all its faults of situation and of climate, I should +at least, for one, regret the fate that would render the glories of +a city so distinct in its character, and so proudly vying with the +capitals of Europe, a tale of the past. A new direction in the course +of the Ganges may reduce it to a swamp, and its palaces and pleasant +places may be left to desolate creatures, but it will never be +rivalled by any modern creation. The days of Anglo-Indian magnificence +are gone by, and though we may hope for all that is conveyed by the +words _comfort_ and _prosperity_, splendour will no longer form a +feature in the scene. + +The climate of Bombay is said to be superior in point of salubrity to +that of Bengal; what is termed the cold season, however, can +scarcely merit the name, there being nothing like the bracing weather +experienced at the same period of the year in the neighbouring +presidency. One peculiarity of Bombay consists in the wind blowing hot +and cold at the same time, so that persons who are liable to rheumatic +pains are obliged to wrap themselves up much more warmly than is +agreeable. While enduring a very uncomfortable degree of heat, a puff +of wind from the land or the sea will produce a sudden revulsion, and +in these alternations the whole day will pass away, while at night +they become still more dangerous. It is said that the hot season +is not so hot as in Bengal, and the absence of punkahs in the +drawing-rooms and bed-chambers favours the statement; but if the +atmosphere be much more sultry in the hot season than it is in what is +by courtesy called cold, it must be rather difficult to bear. + +To a stranger in Bombay, it is a great convenience to find so many +persons who speak English, the objection to the engagement of domestic +servants who have acquired the language of their Christian masters not +existing to the same extent here as in Bengal, where, in most cases, +it is a proof of utter worthlessness. Numbers of very respectable +servants, who are found in old established families at this +presidency, speak English, and the greater portion take a pride in +knowing a little of their masters' language. These smatterers are +fond of showing off their acquirements upon all occasions, replying +in English, as far as they are able, to every question asked in +Hindostanee, and delivering their messages in all the words that they +can muster. With few exceptions, the pronunciation of the language +they have acquired is correct; these exceptions consist in the prefix +of _e_ to all words beginning with an _s_, and the addition of the +same letter to every termination to which it can be tacked. Thus they +will ask you to take some _fowlee-stew;_ and if you object to any +thing, say they will bring you _anotheree_. Though very respectful +when addressing their superiors in their native language, the same +degree of propriety is not maintained under the disadvantage of an +incompetent acquaintance with English. Instead of the _khana tear hi_, +'dinner is ready,' they will very unintentionally substitute an abrupt +summons. I was much amused one day, when, being rather late at my +toilette, a servant made his appearance at the door of my apartment, +just as I was quitting it, and said, "You come to dinner." He had been +sent to tell me that it was served, and had not the least idea that he +had not delivered his message with the greatest propriety. + +Though, generally speaking, well-behaved and attentive, the domestics +of a Bombay establishment are very inferior in style and appearance +to those of Bengal, the admixture of Portuguese and Parsees, with +Mohammedans and Hindus, forming a motley crew, for all dress in their +national costume, it being impossible to prevail upon people having +so many and such different religious prejudices to assume the same +livery. The Parsees who engage as domestic servants seldom dress well; +the ugly chintz cap will always be a disfigurement, and it is not +often redeemed by the ample robe and handsome shawl which distinguish +the better classes. + +The Mohammedans do not wear the beautifully plaited turbans and +well-fitting vests so common in Bengal, while the sailors' jackets +and trowsers, almost universally worn by the Portuguese, a few only +assuming the swallow-tailed coat, are any thing rather than +handsome or becoming. The inferiority of dress exhibited is the more +inexcusable, since the wages of servants in Bombay are much higher +than those of the same class in Bengal, while the difference in +point of number does not make up for the difference in the rate. The +youngest table-servant demands twelve rupees a month, no one will +engage as a butler under twenty, and the remainder are in proportion. +The ayahs' wages are also very high, amounting to from fifteen to +twenty rupees a month; they are certainly, however, more efficient +than the same class of persons in Bengal, undertaking to wash silk +stockings, lace, and fine muslin; they are, generally speaking, +well-conducted and respectable. The dirzees or tailors are very +inferior to their brethren of Bengal, though paid at a much higher +rate, fifteen rupees a month being the common demand. Whenever a +Bengal tailor happens to come round, he is eagerly seized upon, the +reputation of workmen from the rival presidency being deservedly high. +Tailors are indiscriminately Parsees, Mohammedans, or Hindus, the +latter-named being the least desirable, as they will neither eat, +drink, nor cook in a European manner, and are always eager to get away +by half-past four in the afternoon. + +The cooks of Bombay are, for the most part, well acquainted with the +culinary art, an advantage for which, according to common report, they +are indebted to Lord Clare. Upon the arrival of that nobleman at the +seat of his government, it is said that he started with horror at the +repast which the hospitality of the island had provided for him. At +this substantial dinner, the ponderous round jostled the sirloin of +beef, saddles and haunches of mutton _vis-à-vis'd_ with each other, +while turkey and ham, tongue and fowls, geese and ducks, filled up the +interstices. + +Lord Clare had either brought a French cook in his train, or sent for +one with the least possible delay, and this accomplished person not +only reformed the _cuisine_ at Government House, but took pupils, and +instructed all who chose to pay for the acquirement in the mysteries +of his art. He found his scholars a very teachable race, and it is +only now necessary to describe the way in which any particular +method should be practised, in order to secure success. They easily +comprehend the directions given, and, what is of equal consequence, +are not above receiving instructions. Through the exertions of these +praiseworthy persons, the tables of Bombay are frequently exceedingly +well served, and nobody is actually obliged to dine upon the huge +joints which still make their appearance. + +Turkey maintains its high position, and is, with its accompaniment of +ham, considered indispensable; rounds of boiled salt-beef, plentifully +garnished with carrots, are apparently in high esteem, the carrots +being an importation from England, coming out hermetically sealed +in tin cases. What are considered the dainties of the table consist +chiefly of fresh salmon, preserved by the patent process, Highland +mutton, partridges stuffed with truffles, &c., these things, in +consequence of their rendering the dinner more expensive as well as +more _recherché_, being in great request. + +Although the high prices of provisions are adduced as the reason of +the high rate of servants' wages, as compared with those of Bengal, +this increased expenditure, according to the observations I have been +able to make, relates more to the commodities of the native bazaars +than those consumed by Europeans. The necessity of bringing in +supplies from a distance for the consumption of the island occasions +the increase of the price of grain, &c, while probably the demand +for beef, mutton, fowls, &c. not being go great as in Calcutta, these +articles are sold at a lower rate. Buffalo meat is occasionally eaten +by Europeans, a thing unheard of in Bengal; but it is not in any +esteem. + +The tables in Bombay are handsomely appointed, though not with the +same degree of splendour that prevails in Bengal, where the quantity +of plate makes so striking a display. The large silver vases, in which +butter and milk are enclosed in a vessel filled with saltpetre, which +give to the breakfast-tables of Calcutta an air of such princely +grandeur, are not in use here. + +The servants are summoned by the exclamation of "Boy" instead of the +_Qui hi_? which is so Indian-like in its expression, and has afforded +a distinguishing _soubriquet_ to the Bengallees. The word _boy_ +is said to be a corruption of _bhaee_, 'brother,' a common mode of +salutation all over the East. As it is now employed, it is often very +absurdly answered by a grey-bearded man, who has long lost all title +to the appellation. + +Notwithstanding the strength and acknowledged efficiency of the Bombay +police, it is considered expedient in every house to engage a Ramoosee +or watchman, who, while himself a professional thief, is bound in +honour to protect his employer from the depredation of his brethren. +Though, in virtue of this implied compact, the house ought to be +considered sacred, and the Ramoosee entitled to receive his wages for +the protection that his name affords, some there are who insist upon +the display of their watchfulness in a very unwelcome manner. + +Occasionally the Ramoosee, more peaceably inclined, settles himself +quietly down to sleep in the verandah, and leaves the family to the +enjoyment of repose; but there are others who disdain thus to eat the +bread of idleness, and who make it a point to raise an alarm every +hour in the night. Personal courage or strength of body is by no means +essential in a Ramoosee, all that is required of him being powerful +lungs; this qualification he cultivates to the utmost, and any thing +more dreadful than the sounds emitted in the dead of the night close +to the window nearest the head of my bed I never heard. I have started +up in the most horrible state of apprehension, fancying that the world +was at an end, while, after calming down all this perturbation, +just as I have been going to sleep again, the same fearful shout has +brought on new alarm. Vainly have I remonstrated, vainly endeavoured +to convince the Ramoosee that his duty to his employers would be +better performed by making these shocking outcries at the road-side; +he is either inflexibly silent, or waging war against my repose; for I +believe that he selects the side of the house devoted to the visit or +for the exercise of his extraordinary faculty; I cannot in any other +way account for the small disturbance he gives to the rest of the +family. + +The absolute necessity of paying one of these men, in order to secure +the forbearance of his colleagues, is illustrated by an anecdote +commonly told. It appears that two friends were living together, one +of whom had engaged a Ramoosee, while the other, not imagining it +to be incumbent upon him to incur the same expense, neglected this +precaution. One night, every thing belonging to this unfortunate +chum was stolen. The Ramoosee was summoned, and accused of not +having performed his duty. He boldly denied the charge. "All master's +property is safe," he said; "when master lose any thing, I will +account for it." + +The fidelity with which the greater number of natives, however corrupt +in other respects, fulfil all their engagements, the few instances +in which a pledge once given is forfeited, if taken into grave +consideration, would do much towards settling the point at issue +between the Bishop of London and Sir Charles Forbes. The word of a +native, generally speaking, if solemnly given, is a bond never to be +broken, while an oath is certainly not equally binding. + +In accusing the natives of a deliberate crime in the commission of +perjury, we do not sufficiently reflect upon the difference of the +religious principles which actuate Christians, and the heinous nature +in their eyes of the sin of calling upon a God of purity to witness +their falsehoods. If we could administer an oath to a native, the +profanation of which would fill him with equal horror, we should find +that he would speak the truth. A case in point occurred lately at +Aden. There are a class of Mohammedans who are great knaves, many +being addicted to cheating and theft: the evidence of these men cannot +be depended upon, since for the value of the most trifling sum they +would swear to any thing. Nevertheless, although they do not hesitate +to call upon God and the Prophet to witness the most flagrant +untruths, they will not support a falsehood if put to a certain test. +When required to swear by a favourite wife, they refuse to perjure +themselves by a pledge which they esteem sacred, and will either +shrink altogether from the ordeal or state the real fact. + +The following occurrence is vouched for by an eye-witness: "A Somali +had a dispute with a Banian as to the number of komasies he had paid +for a certain article, swearing by God and the Prophet that he had +paid the price demanded of him for the article in question; but no +sooner was he called upon to substantiate his assertions by swearing +by his favourite wife, than he threw down the article contended for, +and took to his heels with all speed, in order to avoid the much +dreaded oath." It will appear, therefore, that there is scarcely any +class of persons in India so utterly destitute of principle, as to be +incapable of understanding the obligation of an oath, or the necessity +of speaking truth when solemnly pledged to do so, the difficulty being +to discover the asseveration which they consider binding. + +In nearly every transaction with servants in India we find them most +unscrupulous respecting the truth of any account which they give, and +yet at the same time they will fulfil every engagement they enter into +with a conscientiousness almost unknown in Christian countries. The +lowest servant of the establishment may be trusted with money, which +will be faithfully appropriated to the purpose for which it was +intended, but certainly they entertain little or no respect for +abstract truth. + +The controversy at home concerning the general disregard to accuracy +manifested by the natives of India has caused much consternation here, +and will, I trust, be productive of good. It will show at least to +the large portion of the native community, who can understand and +appreciate the value of the good opinion of the country of which they +are fellow-subjects, the necessity of a strict adherence to veracity, +in order to maintain their pretensions to morality, and it will +evince the superiority of that religion which, as one of its precepts, +teaches a regard for truth. + +Willing as I feel to bear testimony to many excellent points in the +native character, I regret to say, that, although they do not deserve +the sweeping accusations brought against them, the standard by which +they are guided is very low. At the same time it must be said, that +the good faith which they observe, upon occasions in which persons +guided by superior lights would be less scrupulous, shows that they +only require a purer religious system to regard truth as we have been +taught to regard it. + + + + +CHAPTER XI. + + * * * * * + +BOMBAY--(_Continued_.) + + * * * * * + + Residences for the Governor--Parell--Its Gardens--Profusion of + Roses--Receptions at Government-house--The evening-parties--The + grounds and gardens of Parell inferior to those at Barrackpore--The + Duke of Wellington partial to Parell--Anecdotes of his Grace + in India--Sir James Mackintosh--His forgetfulness of India--The + Horticultural Society--Malabar Point, a retreat in the hot + weather--The Sea-view beautiful--The nuisance of fish--Serious effects + at Bombay of the stoppage of the trade with China--Ill-condition + of the poorer classes of Natives--Frequency of Fires--Houses of the + Parsees--Parsee Women--Masculine air of the other Native Females + of the lower orders who appear in + public--Bangle-shops--Liqueur-shops--Drunkenness amongst Natives + not uncommon here, from the temptations held out--The Sailors' + Home--Arabs, Greeks, Chinamen--The latter few and shabby--Portuguese + Padres--Superiority of the Native Town of Bombay over that of + Calcutta--Statue of Lord Cornwallis--Bullock-carriages--High price and + inferiority of horses in Bombay--Hay-stacks--Novel mode of stacking. + + +There are three residences for the accommodation of the Governor +of Bombay; one, the Castle, situated within the Fort, has been long +disused, and appropriated to government-offices; a second, at Malabar +Point, is intended as a retreat for the hot weather; Parell, the +third, being the mansion most usually occupied. + +Though not built in a commanding position, Parell is very prettily +situated in the midst of gardens, having a rich back-ground of wood, +while, from the upper windows, the eye, after ranging over these +luxuriant groves, catches a view of the sea, and is carried away to +more remote regions by the waving outline of distant hills, melting +into the soft haze until it effaces all their details. + +Parell was originally a college of Jesuits, and, after so many +alterations and improvements, that its original occupants would be +puzzled to recognise it, is now rendered worthy of the purpose to +which it is dedicated. The house is an irregular structure, without +pretension to architectural design or ornament, but having something +noble in its appearance, which is helped out by a fine portico and +battlemented roof. The interior is handsome and convenient; two +flights of marble stairs, twelve feet broad, lead into a very spacious +drawing-room, with galleries on either side, and three smaller +drawing-rooms beyond. The terrace over the portico, at the other +end, separated from this suite of apartments by a verandah, is easily +convertible into a fourth reception-room, it being roofed in by an +awning, and furnished with blinds, which in the day-time give a very +Italian air to the whole building. + +Though I have never been in Italy, the acquaintance gained of it +through the medium of illustrating pens and pencils makes me fancy +that the island of Bombay, and Parell especially, at this season of +the year (the cold weather), may bear a strong resemblance to that +fair and sunny land. + +The gardens of Parell are perfectly Italian, with their fountains and +cypress trees; though regular, they are not sufficiently symmetrical +to offend the eye, the nature of the ground and of the building, which +runs out at right angles, preventing the formality from being +carried beyond its just limit. Price, the most judicious of +landscape-gardeners, would scarcely have desired to alter arrangements +which have quite enough of the varied and the picturesque to +satisfy those who do not contend for eternal labyrinthine mazes and +perpetually waving lines. There is one straight avenue in front, but +the principal carriage-road has just the kind of curve most desirable, +sweeping round some fine trees which group themselves for the purpose +of affording an agreeable diversity. + +A broad terrace, overlooking a large tank, runs along one side of the +garden, and beyond, upon a rising hill, are seen the New Horticultural +Gardens, and a part of the picturesque village of Metunga, while the +rest is laid out in small lawns, interspersed with rounds and ovals, +fountains in the centre, surrounded by flower-beds, and flanked by +tall, slender cypresses, and the more rare, delicate, and elegant +species of palms: all this is set off by clumps of mangoes, now +covered with blossoms of dark gold burnishing their green leaves. + +It is, indeed, a fair and stately garden, enriched with many native +and foreign productions, both of tree and flower, of great beauty. In +one place, two large trees, on either side a broad gravel walk, are +united by a splendid festoon, formed by a creeper, which bears in the +greatest profusion bell-shaped flowers, at least four inches long, and +of the most beautiful pearly whiteness and fragrant scent. I regret +that my want of botanical knowledge incapacitates me from giving its +name and family. That species of palm which is called the Travellers' +Tree, and which, growing in sandy places, contains in its leaves an +ample supply of fresh water, is to be found here. It resembles the +banana or plantain, in its broad leaves, springing immediately from +the stem, but attains a much greater height, and is altogether very +striking and singular in its appearance. + +The wealth of roses at the gardens of Parell seems to exceed all +computation, bushels being collected every day without any apparent +diminution; indeed it may be questioned whether there is in any part +of the world so great a consumption of this beautiful flower as in +Bombay. The natives cultivate it very largely, and as comparatively +few employ it in the manufacture of rose-water, it is gathered and +given away in the most lavish profusion. At Parell, every morning, one +of the gardeners renews the flowers which decorate the apartments +of the guests; bouquets are placed upon the breakfast-table, which, +though formal, are made up after the most approved Parisian fashion, +the natives being exceedingly skilful in the arrangement of flowers. +Vases filled with roses meet the eye in every direction, flowers which +assume their supremacy over all other daughters of Flora, though there +are many beautiful specimens, the common productions of the gardens, +which are rarely found even in hothouses in England. + +The society of Bombay enjoys the great advantage arising from the +presence of the ladies of the Governor's family, who have rendered +themselves most deservedly popular by the frequency and the +agreeableness of their entertainments, and the kind attention which +they pay to every invited guest. The slight forms that are kept up at +Government-house are just sufficient to give a somewhat courtly air +to these parties without depriving them of their sociability. Morning +visitors are received once a-week, and upon these occasions Parell +assumes a very gay appearance. + +The band, which is an excellent one, is stationed in the hall below, +playing occasionally the most popular compositions of the day, while +its pillared verandah is filled with liveried servants, handsomely +dressed in scarlet, white, and gold. The ample staircases are lined +with flowers, and as the carriages drive up, the aide-de-camps +and other military resident guests are in readiness to receive the +visitors, and to usher them up stairs, and introduce them to the +ladies of the family. + +The morning reception lasts from eleven until two, and the numerous +arrivals from distant stations, or from England, officers continually +coming down from the army or the dominions of foreign princes, +give occasion to conversations of great interest, while it forms +a rallying-point to the whole of Bombay. The evening parties are +distinguished for the excellence of the music, the band having +improved greatly under the stimulating influence of the ladies of the +Governor's family, who are all delightful performers, one especially +excelling. In addition, therefore, to their own talents, all the +musical genius of Bombay is put into requisition, and the result is +shown in some very charming episodes between the dancing. + +At these evening parties, the brilliance of the lights, and the +beauty of the flowers, which in the supper-room especially are very +tastefully displayed, render the scene extremely attractive. One very +pleasing feature must not be omitted; in the ante-room is placed +a large silver salver, filled with bouquets, which are presented, +according to the Oriental custom, to every guest. The number and +variety of the uniforms, and the large proportion of native gentlemen, +add much to the gaiety of the appearance of these parties, and the +eye most accustomed to European splendour may find pleasure in +roaming over these spacious, well-filled, and brilliantly illuminated +apartments. + +Nor is it the interior alone that attracts; on the still moonlight +nights, which are so beautiful in India, the scenery viewed from the +windows assumes a peculiar and almost magical appearance, looking more +like a painting than living reality. The trees, so motionless that not +a leaf stirs, present a picture of such unbroken repose, that we can +scarcely imagine it to be real; the sky seems to be drawn closer to +us, while the whole breathes of divine art, suggesting poetry and +music and thoughts of Paradise. + +In England I remember feeling a longing desire to breathe the +delicious balm, and gaze upon the exquisite effects of an Indian night +again, with its tone of soft beauty and the silvery mystery of its +atmosphere, which adds so great a charm to the rich magnificence of +the foliage; and now I fancy that I can never sufficiently drink in a +scene, not only lovely in itself, but peculiarly delightful from its +contrast to the glare of the day. + +The grounds and gardens of Parell, in extent and splendour, will bear +no comparison with those of Barrackpore, which are, perhaps, some of +the finest in the world, and which must be explored in carriages or +on horseback, while the plantations and parterres at this place offer +nothing more than agreeable walks, which perhaps, after all, afford +superior gratification; at least to those who prefer a feeling of home +to the admiration elicited by great splendour. + +Not one of the least pleasing sensations excited by a residence at +Parell, is the recollection of the distinguished persons who have +inhabited the same chambers, and sat in the same halls. The Duke +of Wellington is said frequently to have expressed a partiality for +Parell, and to look back to the days of his sojourn within its walls +with pleasure. Here he reposed after those battles in which he +laid the foundation of his future glory, and to which, after long +experience, and so many subsequent triumphs as almost to eclipse +their splendour, he recurs with peculiar satisfaction. So far from +underrating, as is the fashion with many of the military servants of +the Crown, the merits of a successful campaign in India, the great +captain of the age, than whom there can be no better judge, rates the +laurels that he gathered in his earliest fields as highly as those +wrested from the soldiers of France, glorying in the title given him +by Napoleon, of "the Sepoy General." + +Few things can be more agreeable than listening to anecdotes told at +the dinner-table at Parell of the Duke of Wellington by officers who +have formerly sat at the same board with him, who have served under +his command in India, and who delight in recording those early traits +of character which impressed all who knew him with the conviction that +he was destined to become the greatest man of the age. The Duke of +Wellington, though wholly unacquainted with the language spoken in +India, was always held in the highest esteem by the natives, with +whom, generally speaking, in order to become popular, it is absolutely +necessary to be able to converse in their own tongue. He obtained, +however, a perfect knowledge of their modes of feeling, thinking, and +acting, and by a liberal policy, never before experienced, endeared +himself to all ranks and classes. It is recollected at this day +that, in times of scarcity, he ordered all the rice sent up for the +subsistence of the troops to be sold, at a moderate price, to +the starving multitude; and that, while more short-sighted people +prophesied the worst results from this measure, it obtained for him +abundant supplies, together with a name that will never be forgotten. + +A re-perusal at Parell of the "Life of Sir James Mackintosh" also +affords interest, though of a different kind. The house which Sir +James designates as large and convenient, with two really good rooms, +has been much improved since his time. It could not be expected that +a man like Sir James Mackintosh would employ many words in the +description of a mansion chiefly interesting on account of its +former occupants; but that he should have dismissed the whole of the +presidency in as summary a manner, seems perfectly unaccountable. + +It does not appear that the importance and value of British India ever +made any strong impression upon Sir James Mackintosh, who seems to +have looked upon its various inhabitants with a cold and careless eye; +to have done nothing in the way of making the people of England better +acquainted with their fellow-subjects in the East, and never to have +felt any desire to assist in the work of their improvement, or to +facilitate its progress. During his subsequent career, India appears +to have been totally forgotten, or remembered only as the scene of +an exile, in which he had found nothing to compensate for the loss of +literary society and the learned idling away of time, from which so +much was expected, and which produced so little. + +The eloquence of Sir James Mackintosh, if exerted in favour of British +India, might, years before, have excited that interest in its behalf, +which remained dormant until Bishop Heber created a new feeling upon +the subject; and in this place especially, I cannot help regretting +that the powers of so great a mind should not have been devoted to +the promotion of the welfare of a country dependant upon England for +intellectual and moral improvement, and which, in the eyes of all +reflecting persons, must be looked upon as the strongest support of +England's ancient glory. + +The garden of the Horticultural Society, which occupies a convenient +space of ground near Parell, is yet in an infant state, but bids fair +in a short time to add very considerably to the pleasures of those +persons who take delight in the cultivation of flowers and fruits. +Many gentlemen are stimulating their gardeners to make great exertions +for the prizes, which it is expected will be chiefly carried away at +the ensuing meeting by exhibitors from the Deccan. Though there are +several very good gardens in the island, they are, according to all +accounts, greatly excelled in other parts of the presidency. + +The system of cultivation carried on by the Horticultural Society +will, no doubt, tend very considerably to their improvement, while the +new method of conveying plants to and from distant places, in boxes +covered with glass, will soon enrich all the gardens, both in India +and at home, with interesting exotics. Several of these cases, +filled with bulbous and other roots, under the inspection of Messrs. +Loddiges, have arrived at Parell, and been planted out in pots; the +eases will be returned, filled with equally valuable specimens of +Indian products; and thus a continual interchange may be kept up. + +I wished much to enrich the collection of foreign plants making by +the Royal Botanical Society of London, by some of the most interesting +specimens of Indian growth, feeling deeply interested in the success +of this institution; but not being a practical gardener myself, I have +as yet been unable to fulfil my intentions. I calculated, perhaps, +too strongly upon the desire of scientific people in Bombay to promote +objects of general utility at home, and see little chance, unless I +do every thing relating to the collecting, planting, packing, and +transmitting the plants with my own hands, of succeeding in sending +any thing to England. Indeed, I find a difficulty in procuring a +_hortus siccus_. + +As every body, who can possibly get away, leaves Bombay during the hot +weather and the rains, the residence at Malabar Point, intended as +a retreat in the sultry season, is seldom tenanted by the Governor's +family. The house, however, is not very often empty, being generally +occupied by some great person and his suite, such as newly-arrived +commanders-in-chief, who are accommodated at this establishment until +they can provide for themselves. The principal residence, and +several bungalows attached to it, are erected on the side of a hill +overlooking and washed by the sea. The views are beautiful, the +harbour affording at all times a scene of great liveliness and +interest, while the aerial summits of the hills in the distance, and +their purple splendours, complete the charm. The numerous fairy-like +skiffs, with their white sails, catching the sunlight, give life and +movement to the picture, while the cottages of the fishermen are often +placed with happy effect upon the neighbouring shore. + +There are, unfortunately, serious drawbacks to the enjoyment which +the eye derives from the gliding boats and palm-crowned huts; the +amusement of _yachting_ being seriously impeded by the method of +spreading nets, for the purpose of capturing the finny tribes, while, +in consequence of the immense quantity which is caught, the whole +island occasionally smells of fish. The fishermen have certain places +secured to them by law, in which they drive immense stakes, usually +the trunks of palm-trees, and between these stakes they fasten their +nets, any damage done to them by passing boats being punishable by a +fine; the navigation of the harbour, to those who wish to visit its +beautiful islands, is, in consequence, rather difficult, and would +scarcely admit of being carried on by those small steamers, which render +every place in the neighbourhood of Calcutta so accessible. + +The boats here, with the exception of private yachts, which are not +numerous, are a disgrace to a civilized place. Nothing can be easily +imagined to be worse than the pattamars usually employed for the +conveyance of troops and travellers to distant points; they are dirty, +many so low in the roof that the passengers cannot stand upright in +them, and filled with insects and vermin. + +The abundance and cheapness of fish render it the common food of the +lower classes, and consequently its effluvia sometimes pervade the +whole atmosphere. The smell of frying fish, with its accompaniment of +oil, is sufficiently disagreeable; but this is not all; a much more +powerful odour arises from fish drying for future use, while, as it +is commonly spread over the fields and employed as manure, the scents +wafted by the breezes upon these occasions breathe any thing but +perfume. + +There are many very delicate kinds of fish, which are held in great +esteem, to be seen at European tables; but, to a stranger, the +smell of the refuse allowed to decay is quite enough, and habit must +reconcile the residents of Bombay to this unpleasant assailant of +the olfactory nerves, before they can relish the finest specimens +of pomfret or other favourite. As it can always be purchased freshly +caught, fish appears at dinner as well as at the breakfast-table in +Bombay; the list of shell-fish includes oysters, which, though not +so tempting in their appearance as those of England, are of excellent +quality. + +The fishermen, like those of Europe, leave the sale of their fish to +their wives, who are said to be a busy, bustling, active race, quite +equal to the tasks which devolve upon them, and, in consequence of the +command which their occupation gives them over the pecuniary receipts +of the house, exerting a proportionate degree of authority. + +Fishermen's huts, though very picturesque, are not usually remarkable +for their neatness or their cleanliness, and those of Bombay form no +exception to their general appearance. They are usually surrounded by +a crowd of amphibious animals, in the shape of tribes of children, who +for the most part are perfectly free from the incumbrance of drapery. +Many, who have not a single rag to cover them, are, notwithstanding, +adorned with gold or silver ornaments, and some ingeniously transform +a pocket-handkerchief into a toga, or mantle, by tying two ends round +the throat, and leaving the remainder to float down behind, so that +they are well covered on one side, and perfectly bare on the other. +Amid the freaks of costume exhibited at Bombay, an undue preference +seems to be given to the upper portion of the person, which is +frequently well covered by a warm jacket with long sleeves, while the +lower limbs are entirely unclad. + +There is said to be cotton goods to the amount of a million sterling +lying in the godowns and warehouses of Bombay, unemployed, in +consequence of the stoppage of the China trade, and it seems a pity +that the multitudes who wear gold chains about their necks, and gold +ear-rings in their ears, could not be prevailed upon to exchange a +part of this metal for a few yards of covering of some kind or other, +of which apparently they stand much in need. + +Great numbers of the poorer classes seem to be ill-fed, ill-lodged, +and worse clothed; yet scantiness in this particular is certainly not +always the result of poverty, as the redundance of precious ornaments +above mentioned can witness. Neither does the wretched manner in which +many belonging to the lower orders of Bombay shelter themselves from +the elements appear to be an absolute necessity, and it is a pity that +some regulations should not be made to substitute a better method +of constructing the sheds in which so many poor people find a +dwelling-place. The precaution of raising the floor even a few inches +above the ground is not observed in these miserable hovels, and their +inhabitants, often destitute of bedsteads, sleep with nothing but a +mat, and perhaps not even that, between them and the bare earth. + +At this season of the year, when no rain falls, the palm-branches with +which these huts are thatched are so carelessly placed, as to present +large apertures, which expose the inmates to sun-beams and to dews, +both of which, so freely admitted into a dwelling, cannot fail to +produce the most injurious effects. Were these houses raised a foot or +two from the ground, and well roofed with the dry palm-branches, which +seem to supply so cheap and efficient a material, they would prove +no despicable abodes in a country in which only at one season of the +year, the rains, very substantial shelter is required. + +As it may be supposed, conflagrations are frequent in these hovels; +they are fortunately seldom attended with loss of life, or even of +much property, since the household furniture and wardrobes of the +family can be easily secured and carried off, while the people +themselves have nothing to do but to walk out. On these occasions, the +rats are seen to decamp in large troops, and gentlemen, returning +home from drives or parties, are often arrested by a fire, and by the +instructions they afford, do much towards staying the progress of the +flames, while the greater number of natives, Parsees in particular, +look quietly on, without offering to render the slightest assistance. +Whole clusters of huts are in this manner very frequently entirely +consumed; the mischief does not spread farther, and would be little to +be lamented should it lead to the entire demolition of dwelling-places +equally unsightly, and prejudicial to health. + +Much to my astonishment, I have seen, in the midst of these very +wretched tenements, one superior to the rest placed upon a platform, +with its verandah in front, furnished with chairs, and surrounded +by all the dirt and rubbish accumulated by its poverty-stricken +neighbours, miserable-looking children picking up a scanty +subsistence, and lean cats groping about for food. Such houses +are, besides, exposed to all the dangers of fire originating in +the adjoining premises; but apparently this circumstance has been +overlooked, together with the expediency of building a little apart +from the horrors of the surrounding abominations. This is the more +remarkable, from the contrast it affords to the air of comfort which +is so often manifest in the inferior dwellings of the natives of +Bombay. + +I often, in my drives, come upon a small patch of ground, well +cultivated, and boasting vegetables, fruits, and flowers, with a small +low-roofed house of unbaked mud in one corner, having a verandah all +round, well tiled and supported on bamboos. It is difficult under this +sloping roof to get a peep at the interior, but my efforts have been +rewarded by the sight of floors cleanly swept, bedsteads, and those +articles of furniture which can scarcely be dispensed with without +suffering considerable privation. + +As yet, I have not been able to discover to what class of persons +these kind of dwellings belong, but I suspect that they are tenanted +chiefly by Parsees, a money-getting and luxurious race of people, +who are sufficiently industrious to exert themselves, with great +perseverance, to gain a living, and have the spirit to spend their +money upon the comforts and conveniences of life. They are accused of +extravagance in this particular, and perhaps do occasionally exceed; +but, generally speaking, their style of living is more commendable +than that of the Hindus, who carry their thrift and parsimony to an +outrageous height. + +Near their houses very graceful groups of Parsee women and children +are to be seen, who, upon the encouragement afforded by a smile, +_salaam_ and smile again, apparently well-pleased with the notice +taken of them by English ladies. These women are always well-dressed, +and most frequently in silk of bright and beautiful colours, worn as +a _saree_ over a tight-fitting bodice of some gay material. The manner +in which the saree is folded over the head and limbs renders it a +graceful and becoming costume, which might be imitated with great +propriety by the Hindu women, who certainly do not appear to study +either taste or delicacy in their mode of dress. + +I may have made the remark before, for it is impossible to avoid the +recurrence of observations continually elicited by some new proofs of +the contrast between the women upon this side of India, and their more +elegant sisters on the banks of the Hooghly. Here all the women, the +Parsees excepted, who appear in public, have a bold masculine air; +any beauty which they may have ever possessed is effaced, in the very +lower orders, by hard work and exposure to the weather, while those +not subjected to the same disadvantages, and who occupy a better +situation, have little pretensions to good looks. Many are seen +employed in drawing water, or some trifling household work, wearing +garments of a texture which shews that they are not indebted to +laborious occupation for a subsistence; and while the same class in +Bengal would studiously conceal their faces, no trouble whatever +of the kind is taken here. They are possibly Mahrattas, which will +account for their carelessness; but I could wish that, with superior +freedom from absurd restraint, they had preserved greater modesty of +demeanour. + +The number of shops in the bazaars for the sale of one peculiar +ornament, common glass rings for bracelets, and the immense quantities +of the article, are quite surprising; all the native women wear these +bangles, which are made of every colour. The liqueur-shops are also +very common and very conspicuous, being distinguished by the brilliant +colours of the beverage shown through bottles of clear white glass. +What pretensions this rose and amber tinted fluid may have to compete +with the liqueurs most esteemed in Europe, I have not been able to +learn. Toddy-shops, easily recognised by the barrels they contain +upon tap, and the drinking-vessels placed beside them, seem almost as +numerous as the gin-palaces of London, arguing little for the sobriety +of the inhabitants of Bombay. In the drive home through the bazaar, +it is no very uncommon circumstance to meet a group of +respectably-dressed natives all as tipsy as possible. + +It is on account of the multitude of temptations held out by the +toddy-shops, that the establishment I have mentioned as the Sailors' +Home is so very desirable, by affording to those who really desire to +live comfortably and respectably, while on shore, the means of doing +both. Here they may enjoy the advantages of clean, well-ventilated +apartments, apparently, according to what can be seen through the open +windows, of ample size; and here they may, if they please, pass their +time in rational employment or harmless amusement. Groups of sun-burnt +tars, with their large straw hats and honest English faces, are often +to be seen mingled with the crowd of Asiatics, of whom every day seems +to show a greater variety. + +I saw three or four very remarkable figures last evening; one was an +extremely tall and handsome Arab, well dressed in the long embroidered +vest, enveloping an ample quantity of inner garments, which I have +so often seen, but of which I have not acquired the name, and with a +gaily-striped handkerchief placed above the turban, and hanging down +on either side of his face. This person was evidently a stranger, +for he came up to the carriage and stared into it with the strongest +expression of surprise and curiosity, our dress and appearance seeming +to be equally novel and extraordinary to this child of the desert. +Shortly afterwards, we encountered a Greek, with luxuriant black +ringlets hanging down from under a very small scarlet and gold cap; +the others were Jews, very handsome, well-dressed men, profusely +enveloped in white muslin, and with very becoming and peculiar caps on +their heads. + +I regret to see my old friends, the China-men, so few in number, and +so shabby in appearance; yet they are the only shoemakers here, and it +ought to be a thriving trade. Their sign-boards are very amusing; one +designating himself as "Old Jackson," while a rival, close at hand, +writes "Young Jackson" upon his placard; thus dividing the interest, +and endeavouring to draw custom from the more anciently established +firm. + +The Portuguese padres form striking and singular groups, being dressed +in long black gowns, fitting tightly to the shape, and descending to +their feet. They seem to be a numerous class, and I hope shortly +to see the interiors of some of their churches. A very large, +handsome-looking house was pointed out to us by one of the servants of +whom we made the inquiry, as belonging to a Portuguese padre; it +was situated near the cloth bazaar, and I regretted that I could not +obtain a better view of it. + +My predilection for exploring the holes and corners of the native town +is not shared by many of the Anglo-Indian residents of Bombay, who +prefer driving to the Esplanade, to hear the band play, or to a place +on the sea-shore called the Breach. I hope, however, to make a tour of +the villages, and to become in time thoroughly acquainted with all the +interesting points in the island, the variety and extent of the rides +and drives rendering them most particularly attractive to a traveller, +who finds something interesting in every change of scene. + +I have accomplished a second drive through the coco-nut gardens on the +Girgaum road, a name by which this quarter of the native town is +more commonly known; the view thus obtained only excited a desire to +penetrate farther into the cross-lanes and avenues; but as I do not +ride on horseback, I have little chance of succeeding, since I could +not see much from a palanquin, and taun-jauns, so common in Calcutta, +are scarcely in use here. The more I see of what is called the Native +Town in Bombay, the more satisfied I am of its great superiority +over that of Calcutta; and I gladly make this admission, since I have +found, and still continue to find, so great a falling-off in the style +of the dress, whether it relates to form, material, or cleanliness. I +have lately observed a very handsome turban, which seems worn both by +the Mohammedans and Hindus, of red muslin, with gold borders, which is +an improvement. + +A taste for flowers seems universal, plants in pots being continually +to be seen on the ledges of the porticoes and verandahs; these are +sometimes intermingled with less tasteful ornaments, and few things +have struck me as more incongruous than a plaster bust of a modern +English author, perched upon the top of a balustrade over the portico +of a house in the bazaar; mustachios have been painted above the +mouth, the head has been dissevered from the shoulders, and is now +stuck upon one side in the most grotesque manner possible, looking +down with half-tipsy gravity, the attitude and the expression of the +countenance favouring the idea, upon the strange groups thus oddly +brought into juxta-position. The exhibition is a droll one; but it +always gives me a painful feeling: I do not like to see the effigy of +a time-honoured sage abased. + +The statue of Lord Cornwallis, on the Esplanade--which, being +surrounded by sculptured animals, not, I think, in good taste, +might be mistaken for Van Amburgh and his beasts--is close to a spot +apparently chosen as a hackney-coach stand, every kind of the inferior +descriptions of native vehicles being to be found there in waiting. + +Some of the bullock-carriages have rather a classical air, and +might, with a little brushing up and decoration, emulate the ancient +triumphal car. They are usually dirty and shabby, but occasionally +we see one that makes a good picture. The bullocks that draw it are +milk-white, and have the hanging dewlap, which adds so greatly to the +appearance of the animal; the horns are painted blue, and the forehead +is adorned with a frontlet of large purple glass beads, while bouquets +of flowers are stuck on either side of the head, after the manner of +the rosettes worn by the horses in Europe. + +A very small pair of milk-white bullocks, attached to a carriage of +corresponding dimensions, merely containing a seat for two persons, +is a picturesque and convenient vehicle, which will rattle along the +roads at a very good pace. These bullocks usually have bells attached +to their harness, which keep up a perpetual and not disagreeable +jingle. The distances between the European houses are so great, +and the horses able to do so little work, that it seems a pity that +bullocks should not be deemed proper animals to harness to a shigram +belonging to the _saib logue_: but fashion will not admit the adoption +of so convenient a means of paying morning visits, and thus sparing +the horses for the evening drive. + +Great complaints are made about the high price and the inferiority of +the horses purchaseable in Bombay, a place in which the Arab is not +so much esteemed as I had expected. Some difficulty was experienced +in obtaining very fine specimens of this far-famed race for the Queen, +who gave a commission for them. I had the pleasure of seeing four that +are going home in the _Paget_, destined for her Majesty's stables. + +The Imaum of Muscat lately sent a present of horses to Bombay, but +they were not of high caste; those I have mentioned, as intended for +the Queen, being of a much finer breed. They are beautiful creatures, +and are to be put under the care of an English groom, who has the +charge of some English horses purchased in London for a native Parsee +gentleman. From the extent of the Arab stables, and the number of Arab +horse-merchants in Bombay, it would appear easy to have the choice +of the finest specimens; but this is not the case, while various +circumstances have combined to reduce the numbers of native horses, +which were formerly readily procurable. Thus, the fine breed of +Kattywar is not now attainable, and the same value does not appear to +be set upon horses from Kutch and the Deccan, which in other parts +of India are esteemed to be so serviceable. Persian horses are +little prized; and those imported from England, though very showy and +handsome, will not do much work in this climate, and are therefore +only suited to rich people, who can keep them for display. The +stud-horses bred near Poonah do not come into the market so freely as +in the Bengal presidency, where they are easily procurable, and are +sought after as buggy and carriage horses. Old residents, I am told, +prefer the Arabs, the good qualities of these celebrated steeds +requiring long acquaintance to be justly appreciated, while persons +new to the country can see nothing but faults in them. + +A novel feature in Bombay, to persons who have only visited the other +side of India, is found in the hay-stack, the people having discovered +the advantage of cutting and drying the grass for future use. Immense +numbers of carts, drawn by bullocks and loaded with hay, come every +day into the island; this hay is stacked in large enclosures built +for the purpose, and can be purchased in any quantity. There are large +open spaces, near tanks or wells, on the road-side, which give the +idea of a hay-market; the carts being drawn up, and the patient +bullock, always an accompaniment to an Indian rural scene, unyoked, +reposing on the ground. The drivers, apparently, do not seek the +shelter of a roof, but kindle their cooking-fires on the flats on the +opposite side of the road, and sleep at night under the shelter of +their carts. The causeway which unites the island of Bombay with +its neighbour, Salsette, affords a safe and convenient road, greatly +facilitating the carriage of supplies of various kinds necessary for +the consumption of so populous a place. + +The villagers at Metunga, and other places, make as much hay as their +fields will supply for their own use, and have hit upon a singular +method of stacking it. They choose some large tree, and lodge the hay +in its branches, which thus piled up, assumes the appearance of an +immense bee-hive. This precaution is taken to preserve the crop +from the depredations of cattle, and, if more troublesome, is less +expensive than fencing it round. From the miserably lean condition of +many of the unfortunate animals, which their Hindu masters worship and +starve, it would appear that, notwithstanding its seeming abundance, +they are very scantily supplied with hay. It is a pity that some +agriculturist does not suggest the expedience of feeding them upon +fish, which, as they are cleanly animals, they would eat while fresh. + + + + +CHAPTER XII. + + * * * * * + +BOMBAY--(_Continued_). + + * * * * * + + The Climate of Bombay treacherous in the cold season--The land-wind + injurious to health--The Air freely admitted into Rooms--The + Climate of the Red Sea not injurious to Silk dresses--Advice to + lady-passengers on the subject of dress--The Shops of Bombay badly + provided--Speculations on the site of the City, should the seat of + Government be removed hither--The Esplanade--Exercise of Sailors + on Shore and on Ship-board--Mock-fight--Departure of Sir Henry + Fane--Visit to a fair in Mahim Wood--Prophecy--Shrine of Mugdooree + Sahib--Description of the Fair--Visit to the mansion of a + Moonshee--His Family--Crowds of Vehicles returning from the + Fair--Tanks--Festival of the _Duwallee_--Visit to a Parsee--Singular + ceremony--The Women of India impede the advance of improvement--They + oppose every departure from established rules--Effect of Education in + Bombay yet superficial--Cause of the backwardness of Native Education. + + +Every day's experience of the climate of Bombay assures me that, in +what is called the cold season, at least, it is the most treacherous +in the world; and that, moreover, its dangers are not sufficiently +guarded against by the inhabitants. Cold weather, such as takes place +during the period from November to March, in all parts of Bengal, is +not felt here, the days being more or less sultry, and tempered only +by cold, piercing winds. + +The land-wind, which blows alternately with the sea-breezes, comes +fraught with all the influences most baneful to health; cramps, +rheumatic pains, even head-aches and indigestion, brought on by cold, +are the consequences to susceptible persons of exposure to this wind, +either during the day or the night: so severe and so manifold are +the pains and aches which attend it, that I feel strongly inclined to +believe that Bombay, and not "the vexed Bermoothes," was the island +of Prospero, and that the plagues showered upon Caliban still remain. +Though the progress of acclimation can scarcely fail to be attended by +danger to life or limb, the process, when completed, seems to be very +effectual, since little or no pains are taken by the old inhabitants +to guard against the evil. + +Some of the withdrawing-rooms of Bombay are perfectly open at either +end, and though the effect is certainly beautiful--a charming living +landscape of wood and water, framed in by the pillars at the angles of +the chamber--yet it is enjoyed at too great a risk. Dining-rooms are +frequently nearly as much exposed, the aim of everybody apparently +being to admit as great a quantity of air as possible, no matter from +what point of the compass it blows. Strangers, therefore, however +guarded they may be in their own apartments, can never emerge from +them without incurring danger, and it is only by clothing themselves +more warmly than can be at all reconciled with comfort, that they can +escape from rheumatic or other painful attacks. + +These land-winds are also very destructive to the goods and chattels +exposed to them; desks are warped and will not shut, leather gloves +and shoes become so dry that they shrink and divide, while all +unseasoned wood is speedily split across. It is said that the hot +weather is never so fierce in Bombay as in Bengal, the sea-breezes, +which sometimes blow very strongly, and are not so injurious as those +from the land, affording a daily relief. + +It may be necessary, for the advantage of succeeding travellers, +to say that, in passing down the Red Sea, in the autumn and winter +months, no danger need be apprehended from the effects of the climate +upon coloured silks. It was not possible for me to burthen myself with +tin cases, and I was obliged to put my wearing apparel, ribbons, &c, +into portmanteaus, with no other precaution than a wrapper of brown +paper. Nothing, however, was injured, and satin dresses previously +worn came out as fresh as possible: a circumstance which never happens +in the voyage round the Cape. + +And now, while upon the subject of dress, I will further say, that it +is advisable for ladies to bring out with them to Bombay every thing +they can possibly want, since the shops, excepting immediately after +the arrival of a ship, are very poorly provided, while the packs, for +few have attained to the dignity of tin boxes, brought about by the +hawkers, contain the most wretched assortment of goods imaginable. The +moment, therefore, that the cargo of a vessel hag been purchased +by the retail dealers, all that is really elegant or fashionable is +eagerly purchased, and the rejected articles, even should they be +equally excellent, when once consigned to the dingy precincts of +a Bombay shop, lose all their lustre. The most perfect bonnet that +Maradan ever produced, if once gibbeted in one of Muncherjee's +glass-cases, could never be worn by a lady of the slightest +pretensions. Goods to the amount of £300 were sold in one morning, +it is said, in the above-mentioned worthy's shop, and those who were +unable to pay it a visit on the day of the opening of the cases, must +either content themselves with the leavings, or wait the arrival of +another ship. + +It is but justice to Miss Lyndsay, the English milliner, to say that +she always appears to be well provided; but as her establishment +is the only one of the kind in Bombay, there must necessarily be a +sameness in the patterns of the articles made up. The want of +variety is the evil most strongly felt in Anglo-Indian toilets; and, +therefore, in preparing investments, large numbers of the same pieces +of silk ribbons should be avoided, nobody liking to appear in a +general uniform, or livery. + +The stoppage of the China trade has cut off one abundant source +of supply, of which the ladies of Bombay were wise enough to avail +themselves. It is difficult now to procure a morsel of China silk in +the shops, and there appears to be little chance of any goods of the +kind coming into the market, until the present differences between +Great Britain and the Celestial Empire shall be adjusted. With +the exception of the common and trifling articles brought about by +hawkers, every thing that is wanted for an Anglo-Indian establishment +must be sent for to the Fort, from which many of the houses are +situated, four, five, or six miles. + +As there are populous villages at Bycullah, Mazagong, &c, it seems +strange that no European bazaars have been established at these +intermediate places for the convenience of the inhabitants, who, with +the exception of a few fowls, do not usually keep much in the way of +a farmyard. With an increase in the number of inhabitants, of course +shops would start up in the most eligible situations, and should +the anticipated change take place, and Bombay become the seat of the +Supreme Government, the demands of the new establishment would no +doubt be speedily supplied. + +It is impossible, however idle the speculation may be, not to busy the +mind with fancies concerning the site of the city which it is supposed +would arise in the event of the Governor-general being instructed to +take up his abode at Bombay. The Esplanade has been mentioned as the +most probable place, although in building over this piece of ground +the island would, in a great measure, be deprived of its lungs, and +the enjoyment of that free circulation of air, which appears to be so +essential to the existence of Anglo-Indians, who seem to require the +whole expanse of heaven in order to breathe with freedom. The happy +medium between the want of air and its excess will not answer the +demand, and accordingly the Esplanade, no matter how strongly the +wind blows, is a favourite resort. Although its general features are +unattractive, it occasionally presents a very animated scene; the +review of the troops in the garrison is seen to great advantage, and +forms a spectacle always interesting and imposing. + +This mustering of the troops is occasionally varied by military +exercises of a more novel nature. The sailors of the flag-ship are +brought on shore, for the purpose of perfecting themselves in the +manual and platoon exercise, and in the performance of such military +evolutions as would enable them to co-operate successfully with a land +force, or to act alone with greater efficiency upon any emergency. +Though not possessing much skill in military affairs, I was pleased +with the ease and precision with which they executed the different +movements, their steadiness in marching, and the promptness with which +the line was dressed. They brought field-pieces on shore with them, +which, according to my poor judgment, were admirably worked. These +parades were the more interesting, in consequence of the expected war +with China, a war in which the sailors of the _Wellesley_ will, no +doubt, be actively engaged. + +I had also an opportunity of witnessing from the deck of that vessel, +when accompanying the Governor's party on board, the manoeuvring of +the ship's boats while landing a force. The mock fight was carried on +with great spirit, and the most beautiful effect; the flashing from +the guns in the bows of the boats and the musketry, amid the exquisite +blue smoke issuing from the smaller species of artillery, producing +fire-works which, in my opinion, could not be excelled by any of the +most elaborate construction. The features of the landscape, no doubt, +assisted to heighten the effect of the scene--a back-ground of lovely +purple islands--a sea, like glass, calmly, brightly, beautifully +blue--and the flotilla of boats, grouped as a painter would group +them, and carrying on a running fire, which added much to the +animation of their evolutions, the smoke occasionally enveloping the +whole in vapour, and then showing the eager forms of men, as it rolled +off in silvery clouds towards the distant hills. + +As I gazed upon this armament, and upon the palm-woods that fringed +the shore, I could not help calling to mind the lawless doings of the +buccaneers of old, and the terror spread through towns and villages +by the appearance of a fleet of boats, manned by resolute crews, and +armed with the most deadly weapons of destruction. The sight realized +also the descriptions given in modern novels of the capture of towns, +and I could easily imagine the great excitement which would lead +daring men to the execution of deeds, almost incredible to those who +have never felt their spirits stirred and their arms nerved by danger, +close, imminent, and only to be mastered by the mightiest efforts. + +When any _tamasha_, as the natives call it, is going on upon the +Esplanade, near the beach, they add very considerably to the effect of +the scene, by grouping themselves upon the bales of cotton, piled near +the wharf for exportation: those often appear to be a mass of human +beings, so thickly are they covered with eager gazers. Upon the +occasion of the departure of Sir Henry Fane to England, there appeared +to be a general turn-out of the whole of Bombay, and the effect was +impressive and striking. The road down to the Bunder, or place of +embarkation, was lined with soldiers, the bands of the different +regiments playing while the _cortège_ passed. All the ladies made +their appearance in open carriages, while the gentlemen mounted on +horseback, and joined the cavalcade. A large party of native gentlemen +assembled on foot at the Bunder, for the purpose of showing a last +mark of respect to a distinguished officer, about to leave the country +for ever. + +Sir Henry, accompanied by his staff, but all in plain clothes, drove +down the road in a barouche, attended by an escort of cavalry, and +seemed to be much affected by the tokens of esteem which he received +on every hand. He left the shore amidst the waving of handkerchiefs, +and a salute of seventeen guns, and would have been greeted with +hearty cheers, did military discipline allow of such manifestation of +the feelings. + +Sights and scenes like these will, of course, always attract numerous +spectators, while on the evenings in which the band plays, there is +a fair excuse for making the Esplanade the object of the drive; but +Bombay affords so many avenues possessing much greater beauty, that +I am always delighted when I can diversify the scene by a visit to +places not nearly so much in request, but which are to me infinitely +more interesting, as developing some charm of nature, or displaying +the habits and manners of the people of the country. With these +views and feelings, I was much pleased at receiving an invitation +to accompany some friends to a fair held in Mahim Wood--that sea of +palm-trees, which I had often looked down upon from Chintapootzlee +Hill with so much pleasure. + +The fair was held, as is usual in oriental countries, in honour of +a saint, whose canonized bones rest beneath a tomb apparently of +no great antiquity, but which the people, who are not the best +chronologists in the world, fancy to be of very ancient date. The +name of the celebrated person thus enshrined was Mugdooree Sahib, +a devotee, who added the gift of prophecy to his other high +qualifications, and amongst other things has predicted that, when the +town shall join the wood, Bombay shall be no more. The accomplishment +of what in his days must have appeared very unlikely ever to take +place--namely, the junction of inhabited dwellings with the trees of +Mahim--seems to be in rapid course of fulfilment; the land has been +drained, many portions formerly impassable filled up, and rendered +solid ground, while the houses are extending so fast, that the Burruh +Bazaar will in no very long period, in all probability, extend to +Mahim. Those who attach some faith to the prophecy, yet are unwilling +to believe that evil and not good will befal the "rising presidency," +are of opinion that some change of name will take place when it shall +be made the seat of the Supreme Government: thus the saint's credit +will be saved, and no misfortune happen to the good town of Bombay. +The superstitious of all persuasions, the Christians perhaps +excepted--though many of the Portuguese Christians have little more +than the name--unite in showing reverence to the shrine of the saint, +while Mugdooree Sahib is held quite as much in estimation by the +Hindus as by the followers of he own corrupted creed, the Mohammedans +of Bombay being by no means orthodox. + +Many respectable natives have built houses for themselves at Mahim, +on purpose to have a place for their families during the time of the +fair, while others hire houses or lodgings, for which they will pay +as much as twenty rupees for the few days that it lasts. A delightful +drive brought us to the confines of the wood; the whole way along, we +passed one continuous string of bullock-carriages, filled with people +of all tribes and castes, while others, who could not afford this mode +of conveyance, were seen in groups, trudging on foot, leading their +elder children, and carrying their younger in their arms. The road +wound very prettily through the wood, which at every turn presented +some charming bits of forest scenery, shown to great advantage in the +crimson light of evening, which, as it faded, produced those wild, +shadowy illusions, which lend enchantment to every view. Parasitical +plants, climbing up the trunks of many of the trees, and flinging +themselves in rich garlands from bough to bough, relieved the monotony +of the tall, straight palm-trees, and produced delicious green +recesses, the dearest charm of woodland scenery. + +I have frequently felt a strong desire to dwell under the shade of +forest boughs, for there is something in that sylvan kind of life so +redolent of the hunter's merry horn, the mating song of birds, and +the gurgling of secret rills, as to possess indescribable charms to a +lover of the picturesque. Now, however, experience in sober realities +having dispelled the illusions of romance, I should choose a cottage +in some cleared space by the wood-side, though at this dry season of +the year, and mid the perpetual sunshine of its skies, the heart of +Mahim Wood would form a very agreeable residence. + +The first house we came to was very comfortable, and almost English +in its appearance; a small, neat mansion, with its little court-yard +before it, such as we should not be surprised to see in some +old-fashioned country village at home. Straggling huts on either side +brought us to the principal street of Mahim, and here we found the +houses lighted, and lamps suspended, in imitation of bunches of +grapes, before all that were ambitious of making a good appearance. + +After passing the shops belonging to the village--the grain-sellers, +the pan-sellers, and other venders of articles in common demand--we +came to a series of booths, exactly resembling those used for the same +purpose in England, and well supplied with both native and foreign +products. The display was certainly much greater than any I had +expected to see. Some of the shops were filled with French, English, +and Dutch toys; others with China and glass ornaments; then came one +filled with coloured glass bangles, and every kind of native ornament +in talc and tinsel, all set off with a profusion of lights. Instead of +gingerbread, there were immense quantities of _metai_, or sweetmeats, +of different shapes and forms, and various hues; sugar rock-work, +pink, white, and yellow, with all sorts and descriptions of cakes. +The carriage moved slowly through the crowd, and at length, finding it +inconvenient to proceed farther in it, we alighted. + +Our party had come to Mahim upon the invitation of a very respectable +moonshee, who had his country-house there, and who was anxious to do +the honours of the fair to the English strangers, my friends, like +myself, being rather new to Bombay. We met the old gentleman at an +opening in the village, leading to the tomb of the saint, and his +offer to conduct us to the sacred shrine formed a farther inducement +to leave the carriage, and venture through the crowd on foot. + +The tomb, which was strongly illuminated, proved to be a white-washed +building, having a dome in the centre, and four minarets, one at each +angle, standing in a small enclosure, the walls of which were also +newly white-washed, and approached by a flight of steps, leading into +a portico. Upon either side of the avenue from the village were seated +multitudes of men and women, who, if not beggars by profession, made +no scruple to beg on this occasion. + +I felt at first sorry that I had neglected to bring any money with +me, but when I saw the crowd of applicants, whom it would have been +impossible to satisfy, and recollected that my liberality would +doubtless have been attributed to faith in the virtues of the saint, +I no longer regretted the omission. The steps of the tomb were lined +with these beggars, all vociferating at once, while other religious +characters were singing with all the power of their lungs, and a +native band, stationed in the verandah of the tomb, were at the same +time making the most hideous discord by the help of all kinds of +diabolical instruments. + +Having a magistrate of our party, we were well protected by the +police, who, without using any rudeness, kept the people off. So far +from being uncivil, the natives seemed pleased to see us at the fair, +and readily made way, until we came to the entrance of the chamber in +which, under a sarcophagus, the body of the saint was deposited. Here +we were told that we could proceed no farther, unless we consented to +take off our shoes, a ceremony with which we did not feel disposed +to comply, especially as we could see all that the chamber contained +through the open door, and had no intention to pay homage to the +saint. The sarcophagus, according to custom, was covered with a rich +pall, and the devout pressed forward to lay their offerings upon it. +These offerings consisted of money, cloths, grain, fruit, &c. nothing +coming amiss, the priests of the temple being quite ready to take the +gifts which the poorest could bestow. The beggars in the porch were +more clamorous than ever, the _maam sahibs_ being especially entreated +to bestow their charity. + +Having satisfied my curiosity, I was glad to get away into the fair, +where I found many things more interesting. Convenient spaces in the +wood were filled with merry-go-rounds, swings, and other locomotive +machinery, of precisely the same description as those exhibited in +England, and which I had seen in Hyde Park at the fair held there, in +honour of Queen Victoria. Mahim Wood boasted no theatres or wild-beast +shows, neither were we treated with the sight of giants or dwarfs; but +there was no want of booths for the purpose of affording refreshment. +One of these _cafés_, the front of which was entirely open, was most +brilliantly illuminated, and filled with numerous tables, covered with +a multitude of good things. That it was expected to be the resort +of English guests was apparent, from an inscription painted in white +letters, rather askew, upon a black board, to the following effect: +"Tea, Coffee, and Pastry-House." + +We were invited to enter this splendid establishment by the moonshee, +who had evidently ordered a refection to be prepared for the occasion. +Being unwilling to disappoint the old gentleman, we took the seats +offered to us, and ate the cakes, and drank the coffee, presented by +some respectable-looking Parsees, the owners of the shop, which they +had taken pains to set off in the European style. Although the natives +of India will not eat with us, as they know that we do not scruple +to partake of food prepared for their tables, they are mortified and +disappointed at any refusal to taste the good things set before us; +the more we eat, the greater being the compliment. I was consequently +obliged to convey away some of the cakes in my handkerchief, to avoid +the alternatives of making myself ill or of giving offence. + +When we were sufficiently rested and refreshed, we followed the +moonshee to his mansion. The moon was at the full, and being at this +time well up, lighted us through the less thronged avenues of the +village, these tangled lanes, with the exception of a few candles, +having no other illumination. Here, seated in corners upon the ground, +were the more humble traders of the fair, venders of fruit, the larger +kind being divided into slices for the convenience of poor customers. +In one spot, a group of dissipated characters were assembled round +bottles and drinking-vessels (of which the contents bore neither the +colour nor the smell of sherbet), who were evidently determined to +make a night of it over the fermented juice of the palm. From what I +have seen, I am inclined to believe sobriety to be as rare a virtue +in Bombay as in London; toddy-shops appear to be greatly upon the +increase, and certainly in every direction there are already ample +means of gratifying a love of spirituous liquors. In other places, the +usual occupation of frying fish was going on, while a taste for sweet +things might be gratified by confectionary of an ordinary description +compared with that exhibited in the shops. + +As we receded from the fair, the bright illumination in the distance, +the twinkling lights in the fore-ground, dimly revealing dusky figures +cowering round their fires, and the dark depths of the wood beyond, +with now and then a gleam of moonshine streaming on its tangled paths, +made up a landscape roll of scenic effects. Getting deeper and deeper +into the wood, we came at last to a small modest mansion, standing in +the corner of a garden, and shadowed by palm-trees, through which the +moon-beams chequered our path. We did not enter the house, contenting +ourselves with seats in the verandah, where the children of our host, +his wife or wives not making their appearance, were assembled. The +elder boys addressed us in very good English, and were, the moonshee +told us, well acquainted with the Guzerattee and Mahratta languages; +he had also bestowed an education upon his daughters, who were taught +to read in the vernacular. + +The old man told us that he was born in Mahim Wood at the time of the +festival, and, though a Hindu, had had the name of Mugdooree, that +of the saint, bestowed upon him, for a good omen. Having a great +affection for his native place, he had, as soon as he could command +the means, built the house which we now saw, and in which he always +resided during the fair, which was called _oories_, or the Mugdooree +Sahib's _oories_, at Mahim. After sitting some time with the old man, +and admiring the effect of the moonlight among the palm-trees, we rose +to depart. In taking leave of the spot, I could not repress a wish to +see it under a different aspect, although it required very slight aid +from fancy to picture it as it would appear in the rains, with mildew +in the drip of those pendant palm branches, green stagnant pools in +every hollow, toads crawling over the garden paths, and snakes lurking +beneath every stone. + +Returning to the place in which we had left the carriage, we found +the fair more crowded than ever, the numbers of children, if possible, +exceeding those to be seen at English places of resort of the same +nature. The upper rooms of the superior houses, many of which seemed +to be large and handsome, were well lighted and filled with company, +many of the most respectable amongst the Hindus, Mohammedans, and +Parsees, repairing to Mahim, to recreate themselves during the +festival. The shops had put on even a gayer appearance, and though +there was no rich merchandize to be seen, the character of the meeting +being merely that of a rustic fair, I was greatly surprised by +the elegance of some of the commodities, and the taste of their +arrangement. + +It was evident that all the purchasers must be native, and +consequently I could not help feeling some astonishment at the large +quantities of expensive European toys with which whole booths were +filled. Dolls, which were to me a novelty in my late visit to Paris, +with real hair dressed in the newest fashion, were abundant; and so +were those excellent representations of animals from Germany, known by +the name of "Barking toys." The price of these things, demanded of our +party at least, was high. I had wished to possess myself of something +as a remembrance of this fair, but as the old moonshee was the only +individual amongst us who carried any money about him, I did not like +him to become my banker on this occasion, lest he should not permit me +to pay him again, and I should by this means add to the disbursements +already made upon our account. + +Upon leaving the fair, we found some difficulty in steering our way +through the bullock-carriages which almost blocked up the road, and +as we drove along the grand thoroughfare towards Girgaum, a populous +portion of the native town, the visitants seemed to increase; cart +followed upon cart in quick succession, all the bullocks in Bombay, +numerous as they are, appearing to have been mustered for the +occasion. + +In the different drives which I have taken through the island, I +have come upon several fine tanks, enclosed by solid masonry of +dark-coloured stone; but, with the exception, in some instances, of +one or two insignificant pillars or minarets, they are destitute of +those architectural ornaments which add so much splendour to the same +works in Bengal. The broad flights of steps, the richly decorated +temple, or the range of small pagodas, so frequently to be seen by +the side of the tanks and bowlies in other parts of India, are here +unknown; the more ancient native buildings which I have yet examined +being, comparatively speaking, of a mean and paltry description, while +all the handsome modern houses are built after the European manner. +There is one feature, however, with which I am greatly pleased--the +perpetual recurrence of seats and ledges made in the walls which +enclose gentlemen's gardens and grounds, or run along the roads, and +which seem to be intended as places of repose for the wayfarer, or as +a rest to his burthen. + +It is always agreeable to see needful accommodation afforded to +the poor and to the stranger; public benefits, however trifling, +displaying liberality of mind in those who can give consideration to +the wants and feelings of multitudes from whom they can hope for +no return. These seats frequently occur close to the gate of some +spacious dwelling, and may be supposed to be intended for the servants +and dependants of the great man, or those who wait humbly on the +outside of his mansion; but they as frequently are found upon the high +roads, or by the side of wells and tanks. + +The festival of the _Duwallee_ has taken place since my arrival +in Bombay, and though I have seen it celebrated before, and more +splendidly in one particular--namely, the illuminations--I never had +the same opportunity of witnessing other circumstances connected with +ceremonies performed at the opening of the new year of the Hindus. +When I speak of the superiority of the illuminations, I allude to +their taste and effect; there were plenty of lights in Bombay, but +they were differently disposed, and did not mark the outline of the +buildings in the beautiful manner which prevails upon the other side +of India, every person lighting up his own house according to his +fancy. Upon the eve of the new year, while driving through the bazaar, +we saw preparations for the approaching festival; many of the houses +were well garnished with lamps, the shops were swept and put into +order, and the horns of the bullocks were garlanded with flowers, +while fire-works, and squibs and crackers, were going off in all +directions. + +On the following evening, I went with a party of friends, by +invitation, to the house of a native gentleman, a Parsee merchant of +old family and great respectability, and as we reached the steps of +his door, a party of men came up with sticks in their hands, answering +to our old English morice-dancers. These men were well clad in white +dresses, with flowers stuck in their turbans; they formed a circle +somewhat resembling the figure of _moulinet_, but without joining +hands, the inner party striking their sticks as they danced round +against those on the outer ring, and all joining in a rude but not +unmusical chorus. The gestures of these men, though wild, were neither +awkward nor uncouth, the sticks keeping excellent time with the song +and with the action of their feet. After performing sundry evolutions, +and becoming nearly out of breath, they desisted, and called upon the +spectators to reward their exertions. Having received a present, they +went into the court-yard of the next mansion, which belonged to one of +the richest native merchants in Bombay, and there renewed their dance. + +We found in the drawing-room of our host's house a large company +assembled. The upper end was covered with a white cloth, and all +round, seated on the floor against the walls, were grave-looking +Parsees, many being of advanced years. They had their books and +ledgers open before them, the ceremony about to be commenced +consisting of the blessing or consecration of the account-books, +in order to secure prosperity for the ensuing year. The officiating +priests were brahmins, the custom and the festival--of which Lacshmee, +the goddess of wealth, is the patroness--being purely Hindu. + +The Parsees of India, sole remnant of the ancient fire-worshippers, +have sadly degenerated from that pure faith held by their forefathers, +and for which they became fugitives and exiles. What persecution +failed to accomplish, kindness has effected, and their religion has +been corrupted by the taint of Hinduism, in consequence of their long +and friendly intercourse with the people, who permitted them to dwell +in their land, and to take their daughters in marriage. Incense was +burning on a tripod placed upon the floor, and the priests muttering +prayers, which sounded very like incantations, ever and anon threw +some new perfume upon the charcoal, which produced what our friend +Dousterswivel would call a "suffumigation." These preliminaries over, +they caused each person to write a few words in the open book before +him, and then threw upon the leaves a portion of grain. After this had +been distributed, they made the circle again, and threw gold leaf upon +the volumes; then came spices and betel-nut, cut in small pieces, +and lastly flowers, and a profusion of the red powder (_abeer_) so +lavishly employed in Hindu festivals. More incense was burned, and +the ceremony concluded, the merchants rising and congratulating +each other. Formerly, when our host was a more wealthy man than, in +consequence of sundry misfortunes, he is at present, he was in the +habit of disbursing Rs. 10,000 in gifts upon this day: everybody that +came to the house receiving something. + +The custom of blessing the books, after the Hindu manner, will in all +probability shortly decline among the Parsees, the younger portion +being already of opinion that it is a vain and foolish ceremony, +borrowed from strangers; and, indeed, the elders of the party were +at some pains to convince me that they merely complied with it in +consequence of a stipulation entered into with the Hindus, when +they granted them an asylum, to observe certain forms and ceremonies +connected with their customs, assuring me that they did not place any +reliance upon the favour of the goddess, looking only for the blessing +of God to prosper their undertakings. + +This declaration, however, was somewhat in contradiction to one +circumstance, which I omitted to mention, namely, that before the +assembled Parsees rose from the floor, they permitted the officiating +brahmins to mark their foreheads with the symbol of the goddess, thus +virtually admitting her supremacy. The lamps were then lighted, and +we were presented with the usual offering of bouquets of roses, +plentifully bedewed with _goolabee pánee_, or the distilled tears of +the flower, to speak poetically; and having admired the children of +the family, who were brought out in their best dresses and jewels, +took our leave. The ladies, the married daughters and daughters-in-law +of our host, did not make their appearance upon this occasion; for, +though not objecting to be seen in public, they are not fond of +presenting themselves in their own houses before strangers. + +It is the women of India who are at this moment impeding the advance +of improvement; they have hitherto been so ill-educated, their minds +left so entirely uncultivated, that they have had nothing to amuse +or interest them excepting the ceremonies of their religion, and the +customs with which it is encumbered. These, notwithstanding that many +are inconvenient, and others entail much suffering, they are unwilling +to relinquish. Every departure from established rule, which their +male relatives deem expedient, they resolutely oppose, employing the +influence which women, however contemned as the weaker vessel, always +do possess, and always will exert, in perpetuating all the evils +resulting from ignorance. The sex will ever be found active either +in advancing or retarding great changes, and whether this activity be +employed for good or for evil, depends upon the manner in which their +intellectual faculties have been trained and cultivated. + +It appears to me that, although education is making great progress in +Bombay, all it has yet accomplished of good appears upon the surface, +it not having yet wrought any radical change in the feelings and +opinions of the people, or, excepting in few instances, directing +their pursuits to new objects. I give this opinion, however, with +great diffidence--merely as an impression which a longer residence +in Bombay may remove; meanwhile, I lose no opportunity of acquainting +myself with the native community, and I hope to gather some +interesting information relative to the probable effects of the system +now adopting at the different national schools. + +As far as I can judge, a little of Uncle Jonathan's fervour in +progressing is wanting here; neither the Anglo-Indian or native +residents seem to manifest the slightest inclination to "go ahead;" +and while they complain loudly of the apathy evinced at home to all +that concerns their advantage and prosperity, are quite content to +drowze over their old _dustoors_ (customs), and make no attempt to +direct the public attention in England to subjects of real importance. + +Though unwilling to indulge in premature remarks, these are pressed +upon me by the general complaints which I hear upon all sides; but +though everybody seems to lament the evil, no one exerts himself to +effect a remedy, and while much is talked of individually, little is +done by common consent. One great bar to improvement consists, I am +told, of the voluminous nature of the reports upon all subjects, which +are heaped together until they become so hopelessly bulky, that nobody +can be prevailed upon to wade through them. In England, at all public +meetings, a great deal of time and breath are wasted in superfluous +harangues; but these can only effect the remote mischief threatened by +Mr. Babbage, and produce earthquakes and other convulsions in distant +lands, in distant centuries; whereas the foolscap is a present and a +weighty evil, and has probably swamped more systems of improvement, +and more promising institutions, than any other enemy, however active. + +The intellectual community of India seems yet to have to learn the +advantage of placing all that relates to it in a clear, succinct, and +popular form, and of bringing works before the British public which +will entertain as well as instruct, and lead those who are employed +in legislating for our Eastern territories to inquire more deeply into +those subjects which so materially affect its political, moral, and +commercial prosperity. + + +FINIS. + + + + + + + + + + + +End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Notes of an Overland Journey Through +France and Egypt to Bombay, by Miss Emma Roberts + +*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK AN OVERLAND JOURNEY *** + +***** This file should be named 12064-8.txt or 12064-8.zip ***** +This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: + https://www.gutenberg.org/1/2/0/6/12064/ + +Produced by Paul Murray, Leah Moser and the Online Distributed +Proofreading Team. + + +Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions +will be renamed. + +Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no +one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation +(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without +permission and without paying copyright royalties. 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For +example an eBook of filename 10234 would be found at: + + https://www.gutenberg.org/1/0/2/3/10234 + +or filename 24689 would be found at: + https://www.gutenberg.org/2/4/6/8/24689 + +An alternative method of locating eBooks: + https://www.gutenberg.org/GUTINDEX.ALL + + diff --git a/old/12064-8.zip b/old/12064-8.zip Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..34cb0c9 --- /dev/null +++ b/old/12064-8.zip diff --git a/old/12064.txt b/old/12064.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..cbfabfa --- /dev/null +++ b/old/12064.txt @@ -0,0 +1,8406 @@ +The Project Gutenberg EBook of Notes of an Overland Journey Through France +and Egypt to Bombay, by Miss Emma Roberts + +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with +almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + +Title: Notes of an Overland Journey Through France and Egypt to Bombay + +Author: Miss Emma Roberts + +Release Date: April 16, 2004 [EBook #12064] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ASCII + +*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK AN OVERLAND JOURNEY *** + + + + +Produced by Paul Murray, Leah Moser and the Online Distributed +Proofreading Team. + + + + + +NOTES +OF +AN OVERLAND JOURNEY +THROUGH +FRANCE AND EGYPT +TO +BOMBAY. + +BY THE LATE +MISS EMMA ROBERTS. + +WITH A MEMOIR. + +1841 + +This file was produced from images generously made available by +the Bibliotheque nationale de France (BnF/Gallica) at +http://gallica.bnf.fr + + + + + +CONTENTS. + + * * * * * + +MEMOIR + + * * * * * + +CHAPTER I. + +LONDON TO PARIS. + + Departure from London--A French Steam-vessel--Unfavourable + Weather--Arrival at Havre--Difficulties at the + Custom-house--Description of Havre--Embarkation on the Steamer for + Rouen--Appearance of the Country--Inclemency of the Weather--Arrival + at Rouen--Description of Rouen--Departure by the Boat for + Paris--Scenes and Traditions on the Banks of the Seine--Journey by the + Railroad to Paris--The _Douaniers_--Observations on the Journey up the + Seine + + * * * * * + +CHAPTER II. + +PARIS TO MARSEILLES. + + Description of Paris--Departure by the Diligence--The Country--The + Vineyards--Hotels and fare--Arrival at Lyons--Description of + the City--Departure in the Steam-boat for Arles--Descent of the + Rhone--Beauty and Variety of the Scenery--Confusion on disembarking at + Beaucaire--A Passenger Drowned--Arrival at Arles--Description of the + Town--Embarkation in the Steamer for Marseilles--Entrance into the + Mediterranean--Picturesque Approach to Marseilles--Arrival in the + Harbour--Description of Marseilles--Observations upon the Journey + through France by Ladies + + * * * * * + +CHAPTER III. + +MARSEILLES TO ALEXANDRIA. + + Vexations at the Custom-house--Embarkation on the Malta + Steamer--Difficulties of exit from the Harbour--Storm--Disagreeable + Motion of the Steam-vessel--Passengers--Arrival at Malta--Description + of the City--Vehicles--Dress of the Maltese Women--State of + Society--Church of St. John--The Palace--The Cemetery of the Capuchin + Convent--Intolerance of the Roman Catholic Priesthood--Shops, + Cafes, and Hotels--Manufactures and Products of Malta--Heat of + the Island--Embarkation on board an English Government + Steamer--Passengers--A young Egyptian--Arrival at Alexandria--Turkish + and Egyptian Fleets--Aspect of the City from the Sea--Landing + + * * * * * + +CHAPTER IV. + +ALEXANDRIA TO BOULAK. + + Description of Alexandria--Hotels--Houses--Streets--Frank + Shops--Cafes--Equipages--Arrangements for the Journey to + Suez--Pompey's Pillar--Turkish and Arab Burial-grounds--Preparations + for the Journey to Cairo--Embarkation on the Canal--Bad accommodation + in the Boat--Banks of the Canal--Varieties of Costume in + Egypt--Collision during the night--Atfee--Its wretched appearance--The + Pasha--Exchange of Boats--Disappointment at the Nile--Scarcity of + Trees--Manners of the Boatmen--Aspect of the Villages--The Marquess + of Waterford--The Mughreebee Magician--First sight of the + Pyramids--Arrival at Boulak, the Port of Cairo + + * * * * * + +CHAPTER V. + +CAIRO. + + Arrival at Boulak--Description of the place--Moolid, or Religious + Fair--Surprise of the People--The Hotel at Cairo--Description of + the City--The Citadel--View from thence--The City--The + Shops--The Streets--The interior of the Pasha's + Palace--Pictures--Furniture--Military Band--Affray between a Man and + Woman--Indifference of the Police to Street Broils--Natives beaten + by Englishmen--Visit to an English Antiquary--By-ways of + the City--Interior of the Houses--Nubian + Slave-market--Gypsies--Preparation for Departure to Suez--Mode of + driving in the Streets of Cairo--Leave the City--The Changes in + travelling in Egypt--Attractions of Cairo + + * * * * * + +CHAPTER VI. + +THE DESERT. + + Equipage for crossing the Desert--Donkey-chairs--Sense of calmness and + tranquillity on entering the Desert--Nothing dismal in its + aspect--The Travellers' Bungalow--Inconvenient construction of these + buildings--Kafila of the Governor of Jiddah and his Lady--Their + Equipage--Bedouins--Impositions practised on Travellers--Desert + Travelling not disagreeable--Report of the sailing of the + Steamer--Frequency of false reports--Ease with which an infant of + the party bore the journey--A wheeled carriage crossing the + Desert--Parties of Passengers from Suez encountered--One of Mr. Hill's + tilted Caravans--Difficulty of procuring water at the Travellers' + Bungalow--A night in the Desert--Magnificent sunrise--First sight + of the Red Sea and the Town of Suez--Miserable appearance of the + latter--Engagement of a Passage to Bombay + + * * * * * + +CHAPTER VII. + +SUEZ TO ADEN. + + Travellers assembling at Suez--Remarks on the Pasha's + Government--Embarkation on the Steamer--Miserable accommodation in the + _Berenice_, and awkwardness of the attendants--Government Ships not + adapted to carry Passengers--Cause of the miserable state of the Red + Sea Steamers--Shores of the Red Sea--Arrival at Mocha--Its appearance + from the Sea--Arrival at Aden--Its wild and rocky appearance on + landing--Cape Aden--The Town--Singular appearance of the Houses--The + Garrison expecting an attack by the Arabs--Discontent of the + Servants of Europeans at Aden--Complaints by Anglo-Indians against + Servants--Causes--Little to interest Europeans in Aden + + * * * * * + +CHAPTER VIII. + +ADEN. + + Commanding situation of Aden--Its importance in former times--But few + remains of its grandeur--Its facilities as a retreat for the piratical + hordes of the Desert--The loss of its trade followed by reduction + of the population--Speculations as to the probability of ultimately + resisting the Arabs--Exaggerated notions entertained by the Shiekhs of + the wealth of the British--Aden a free Port would be the Queen of the + adjacent Seas--Its advantages over Mocha--The Inhabitants of Aden--The + Jews--The Banians--The Soomalees--The Arabs--Hopes of the prosperity + of Aden--Goods in request there--Exports--Re-embarkation on the + Steamer--Want of attention--Makallah--Description of the place--Its + products--The Gazelle--Traveller in Abyssinia--Adventurous English + Travellers--Attractions of the Arab life--Arrival at Bombay + + * * * * * + +CHAPTER IX. + +BOMBAY. + + Contrast between landing at Bombay and at Calcutta--First feelings + those of disappointment--Aspect of the place improves--Scenery of the + Island magnificent, abounding with fine Landscapes--Luxuriance and + elegance of the Palms--Profusion and contrast of the Trees--Multitude + of large Houses in Gardens--Squalid, dirty appearance of the + Native Crowd--Costume of the Natives--Inferior to the Costume of + Bengal--Countenances not so handsome--The Drive to the Fort--The + Burrah Bazaar--Parsee Houses--"God-shops" of the Jains--General use + of Chairs amongst the Natives--Interior of the Native Houses--The + Sailors' Home--The Native Town--Improvements--The Streets animated + and picturesque--Number of Vehicles--The Native Females--The Parsee + Women--The Esplanade--Tents and Bungalows--The Fort--The China + Bazaar--A Native School--Visit to a Parsee Warehouse--Real ornamental + China-ware--Apprehension of Fire in the Fort--Houses fired by + Rats--Illumination of Native Houses--Discordant noise of Native + Magic--The great variety of Religions in Bombay productive of + lamp-lighting and drumming + + * * * * * + +CHAPTER X. + +BOMBAY--(_Continued_). + + Bombay the rising Presidency--Probability of its becoming the Seat of + Government--The Anglo-Indian Society of Bombay--Style of Living--The + Gardens inferior to those of Bengal--Interiors of the Houses more + embellished--Absence of Glass-windows an evil--The Bungalows--The + Encamping-ground--Facility and despatch of a change of + residence--Visit to a tent entertainment--Inconveniences attending a + residence in tents--Want of Hotels and Boarding-houses--Deficiency of + public Amusements in Bombay--Lectures and _Conversaziones_ suggested, + as means of bringing the native community into more frequent + intercourse with Europeans--English spoken by the superior classes + of Natives--Natives form a very large portion of the wealth and + intelligence of Bombay--Nothing approaching the idea of a City to be + seen--The climate more salubrious than that of Bengal--Wind blows hot + and cold at the same time--Convenience a stranger finds in so many + domestic servants speaking English--Their peculiar mode of speaking + it--Dress of servants--Their wages--The Cooks--Improved by Lord + Clare--Appointments of the tables--The Ramoosee Watchmen--Their + vociferations during the night--Fidelity of the Natives--Controversy + concerning their disregard of truth. + + * * * * * + +CHAPTER XI. + +BOMBAY--(_Continued_). + + Residences for the Governor--Parell--Its Gardens--Profusion of + Roses--Receptions at Government-house--The evening-parties--The + grounds and gardens of Parell inferior to those at Barrackpore--The + Duke of Wellington partial to Parell--Anecdotes of his Grace + in India--Sir James Mackintosh--His forgetfulness of India--The + Horticultural Society--Malabar Point, a retreat in the hot + weather--The Sea-view beautiful--The nuisance of fish--Serious effects + at Bombay of the stoppage of the trade with China--Ill-condition + of the poorer classes of Natives--Frequency of Fires--Houses of the + Parsees--Parsee Women--Masculine air of the other Native Females + of the lower orders who appear in + public--Bangle-shops--Liqueur-shops--Drunkenness amongst Natives + not uncommon here, from the temptations held out--The Sailors' + Home--Arabs, Greeks, Chinamen--The latter few and shabby--Portuguese + Padres--Superiority of the Native Town of Bombay over that of + Calcutta--Statue of Lord Cornwallis--Bullock-carriages--High price and + inferiority of horses in Bombay--Hay-stacks--Novel mode of stacking + + * * * * * + +CHAPTER XII. + +BOMBAY--(_Continued_). + + The Climate of Bombay treacherous in the cold season--The land-wind + injurious to health--The Air freely admitted into Rooms--The + Climate of the Red Sea not injurious to Silk dresses--Advice to + lady-passengers on the subject of dress--The Shops of Bombay badly + provided--Speculations on the site of the City, should the seat of + Government be removed hither--The Esplanade--Exercise of Sailors + on Shore and on Ship-board--Mock-fight--Departure of Sir Henry + Fane--Visit to a fair in Mahim Wood--Prophecy--Shrine of Mugdooree + Sahib--Description of the Fair--Visit to the mansion of a + Moonshee--His Family--Crowds of Vehicles returning from the + Fair--Tanks--Festival of the _Duwallee_--Visit to a Parsee--Singular + ceremony--The Women of India impede the advance of improvement--They + oppose every departure from established rules--Effect of Education in + Bombay yet superficial--Cause of the backwardness of Native Education + + + + +MEMOIR. + + * * * * * + +Experience has, especially of late years, amply refuted the barbarous +error, which attributes to Nature a niggardliness towards the minds +of that sex to which she has been most prodigal of personal gifts; +the highest walks of science and literature in this country have been +graced by female authors, and, perhaps, the purity and refinement +which pervade our works of imagination, compared with those of former +days, may not unjustly be traced to the larger share which feminine +pens now have in the production of these works. It would appear to +countenance the heretical notion just condemned, to assume that +a robust organization is essential to the proper development and +exercise of the powers of the understanding; but it is certain +that, in several instances, individuals, who have exhibited the most +striking examples of female pre-eminence, have not reached the full +maturity of their intellectual growth, but have been lost to the world +in a premature grave: to the names of Felicia Hemans and Laetitia +E. Landon, besides others, is now added that of Emma Roberts, who, +although in respect of poetical genius she cannot be placed upon +a level with the two writers just named, yet in the vigour of her +faculties, and in the variety of her talents, is worthy of being +associated with them as another evidence against the asserted mental +inequality of the sexes. + +Miss Roberts belonged to a Welsh family of great respectability. Her +grandfather, who was a gentleman of good property, and served the +office of High Sheriff for Denbighshire, North Wales, possessed the +fine estate of Kenmell Park in that county, which was disposed of +after his death to Colonel Hughes, the present Lord Dinorben, whose +seat it continues to be. He had three sons, all of whom entered a +military life, which seems to have had peculiar attractions to this +gallant family. The eldest, the late General Thomas Roberts, raised +a regiment, which became the 111th, and it is said he frequently +officiated as Gold Stick in Waiting to George the Third. A son of +General Roberts was aide-de-camp to Sir Arthur Wellesley in Portugal, +was taken prisoner by the French, and detained during the war: he +afterwards rose to the rank of lieutenant-colonel. The second son, +Colonel David Roberts, of the 51st regiment, distinguished himself in +the Peninsular war, having, on the 7th January, 1809, during Sir +John Moore's retreat, near the heights of Lugo, headed a party which +repulsed the French Light Brigade, on which occasion his cloak was +riddled with bullets, two of which passed through his right-hand, +which was amputated. He was then a major, but afterwards commanded the +regiment, in Lord Dalhousie's brigade, and subsequently in Flanders, +and was so seriously and repeatedly wounded, that his pensions for +wounds amounted to L500 a year. Colonel Roberts was an author, and +wrote, amongst other things, the comic military sketch called _Johnny +Newcome_. The youngest son, William (the father of Miss Roberts), in +the course of his travels on the continent, in early life, formed some +intimacies at the Court of St. Petersburgh (to which he was introduced +by the British Ambassador), and eventually entered the Russian +service; he was made aide-de-camp to General Lloyd, his countryman, +and served with great distinction in several campaigns against the +Turks. He afterwards entered the British army, but had not attained +a higher rank than that of captain (with the paymastership of his +regiment), when he died, leaving a widow, a son (who died a lieutenant +in the army), and two daughters. + +Emma, the youngest daughter of Captain Roberts, was born about the +year 1794. After the death of her father, she resided with her mother, +a lady of some literary pretensions, at Bath. Though possessed of a +very attractive person, though of a lively disposition, and peculiarly +fitted to shine in the gayest circles of social life, her thirst for +letters was unquenchable, and the extent of her reading proves that +her early years must have been years of application. + +Her first literary work was in the grave department of +history,--_Memoirs of the Rival Houses of York and Lancaster, or the +White and Red Roses,_ which was published in two volumes, 1827. In the +preparation of this work, Miss Roberts prosecuted her researches +into the historical records at the Museum with so much diligence +and perseverance, as to attract the notice of the officers of that +institution, who rendered her much assistance. This work did not +take hold of public attention; the narrative is perspicuously and +pleasingly written, but it throws no additional light upon the events +of the time. It is not unusual for young writers, in their first +essay, to mistake the bent of their powers. + +On the death of her mother and the marriage of her sister to an +officer of the Bengal army (Captain R.A. M'Naghten), Miss Roberts +accompanied Mrs. M'Naghten and her husband to India, in February 1828, +taking her passage in the _Sir David Scott_, to Bengal. From Calcutta +she proceeded with them to the Upper Provinces, where she spent the +years 1829 and 1830, between the stations of Agra, Cawnpore, and +Etawah. Her active and inquisitive mind was constantly employed in +noting the new and extraordinary scenes around her, the physical +aspect of the country, the peculiar traits of its population, and the +manners of both natives and Anglo-Indians: the strong and faithful +impressions they made never faded from a memory remarkably retentive. +It is to these favourable opportunities of diversified observation, in +her journeys by land and water, along the majestic Ganges, or by the +dawk conveyance in a palanquin, and in her residence for so long a +period away from the metropolis of British India, which exhibits but +a mongrel kind of Eastern society, that the English public owe +those admirable pictures of Indian scenery and manners, which have +conquered, or contributed to conquer, its habitual distaste for such +topics. + +Whilst at Cawnpore, Miss Roberts committed to the press a little +volume of poetry, entitled _Oriental Scenes_, which she dedicated to +her friend Miss Landon, then rising into eminence under the well-known +designation of L.E.L. This volume, which she republished in England, +in 1832, contains some very pleasing specimens of glowing description, +graceful imagery, and well-turned expression, which show that her +powers required only cultivation to have secured to her a respectable +rank among modern poets. + +Mrs. M'Naghten died in 1831, and about this time (either soon after +or shortly before the death of her sister), she exchanged provincial +scenes and society for the more cheerful atmosphere of Calcutta, where +a new world of observation and of employment opened to her. The sketches +she has given of the City of Palaces, and of its inhabitants, prove how +accurately she had seized their characteristic features. Here her pen +was called into incessant activity; besides various contributions +to Annuals and other ephemeral works, Miss Roberts undertook the +formidable task (doubly formidable in such a climate) of editing a +newspaper, and the _Oriental Observer_, whilst under her direction, +was enriched by some valuable articles written by herself, indicating +the versatility of her talents, the extent of her resources, and the +large area of knowledge over which her active mind had ranged. + +This severe over-employment, however, entailed the inevitable penalty, +loss of health, and in 1832, being now bound by no powerful tie to +India, and looking forward, perhaps, with innocent ambition, to a less +confined theatre for the display of her talents and acquisitions, she +quitted the country, and returned to England, the voyage completely +repairing the injury which the climate of India had wrought upon her +constitution. The reputation she had acquired preceded her to this +country, where she had many literary acquaintances, some of whom had +reached a high station in public esteem; and her entrance into the +best literary circles of the metropolis was thereby facilitated; +but the position which she was entitled to claim was spontaneously +conceded to talents such as hers, set off by engaging and unaffected +manners, warmth and benevolence of heart, equanimity and serenity of +temper. + +The fruits of her observations in the East were given to the world +in several series of admirable papers, published in the _Asiatic +Journal_,[A] a periodical work to which she contributed with +indefatigable zeal and success, from shortly after her return to +England until her death. A selection of those papers was published, in +three volumes, in 1835, under the title of _Scenes and Characteristics +of Hindostan_, which has had a large circulation, and (a very unusual +circumstance attending works on Indian subjects) soon reached a second +edition. This work established Miss Roberts's reputation as a writer +of unrivalled excellence in this province, which demands a union of +quick and acute discernment with the faculty of vivid and graphic +delineation. Of the many attempts which have been made in this country +to furnish popular draughts of Indian "Scenes and Characteristics," +that of Miss Roberts is the only one which has perfectly succeeded. + +Her pen now came into extensive requisition, and the miscellaneous +information with which she had stored her mind enabled her, with +the aid of great fluency of composition and unremitted industry, to +perform a quantity and a variety of literary labour, astonishing to +her friends, when they considered that Miss Roberts did not seclude +herself from society, but mixed in parties, where her conversational +talents rendered her highly acceptable, and carried on, besides, a +very extensive correspondence. History, biography, poetry, tales, +local descriptions, foreign correspondence, didactic essays, even the +culinary art, by turns employed her versatile powers. Most of these +compositions were occasional pieces, furnished to periodical works; +to some she attached her name, and a few were separately published. +Amongst the latter is a very pleasing biographical sketch of Mrs. +Maclean (formerly Miss Landon), one of her oldest and dearest friends. + +It was now seven years since she had quitted British India, during +which period important events had occurred, which wrought material +changes in its political and social aspects. The extinction of the +East-India Company's commercial privileges had imparted a new tone to +its government, given a freer scope to the principle of innovation, +and poured a fresh European infusion into its Anglo-Indian society; +steam navigation and an overland communication between England and her +Eastern empire were bringing into operation new elements of +mutation, and the domestic historian of India (as Miss Roberts may be +appropriately termed) felt a natural curiosity to observe the progress +of these changes, and to compare the British India of 1830 with that +of 1840. With a view of enlarging the sphere of her knowledge of +the country, and of deriving every practicable advantage from a +twelve-months' visit, she determined to examine India on its Western +side, and (contrary to the urgent advice of many of her friends) +to encounter the inconveniences of performing the journey overland, +through France and Egypt. Previous to her departure, she entered into +an arrangement with the _Asiatic Journal_ (the depository of most of +her papers on Indian subjects) to transmit, on her way, a series of +papers for publication in that work, descriptive of the objects +and incidents met with in the overland route, and of the "rising +presidency," as she termed Bombay. By a singular coincidence, the last +paper of this series was published in the very number of the _Asiatic +Journal_[B] which announced her death. These papers, which are now +before the reader, carry on the biography of Miss Roberts almost to +the end of her life. + +She quitted England in September, 1839, and, having suffered few +annoyances on the journey, except a fever which attacked her in the +Gulf, arrived in Bombay in November, where she experienced the most +cordial reception from all classes, including the Governor and the +most respectable of the native community. Miss Roberts was known to +Sir James Carnac, and in his Excellency's family she became a guest +for some time, quitting his hospitable mansion only to meet with a +similar cordiality of welcome from other friends, at the presidency +and in the interior. Her residence at Parell has enabled her to draw, +with her accustomed felicity, in one of the papers published in this +volume, a lively sketch of the domestic scenes and public receptions, +as well as the local scenery, at this delightful place. It appears +from her letters that Miss Roberts meditated a tour into Cutch or +Guzerat, which probably was prevented by her subsequent illness. "It +is my intention," she wrote from Parell, December 30th, 1839, "to go +into the provinces, as I have received numerous invitations; I am at +present divided between Guzerat and Cutch: by going to the latter, I +might have an opportunity of seeing Scinde, the new Resident, Captain +Outram, being anxious that I should visit it." She adds: "I have +received much attention from the native gentlemen belonging to this +presidency, and have, indeed, every reason to be pleased with my +reception." She had projected a statistical work on this part of +India, and in her private letters she speaks with grateful enthusiasm +of the liberality with which the government records were opened to +her, and of the alacrity with which Europeans and natives forwarded +her views and inquiries. In a letter dated in February, 1840, she +says: "I am very diligently employed in collecting materials for my +work; I am pleased with the result of my labours, and think I shall be +able to put a very valuable book upon Bombay before the public. I +hope to go in a short time to Mahableshwar, and thence to Sattara, +Beejapore, &c." Her literary aid was invoked by the conductors of +periodical works at Bombay, to which she furnished some amusing +pictures of home-scenes, drawn with the same spirit and truth as her +Indian sketches. She likewise undertook the editorship of a new weekly +paper, the _Bombay United Service Gazette_, and with the benevolence +which formed so bright a feature in her character, she engaged +with zeal in a scheme for rescuing the native women, who (as her +observation led her to believe) impede the progress of improvement, +from the indolence in which they are educated, by devising employments +for them suited to their taste and capacity. The concluding chapter +of this volume contains some very sound and salutary reflections upon +native education. + +Perhaps too close and unremitting application, in a climate which +demands moderation in all pursuits that tax the powers of either mind +or body, produced or aggravated a disease of the stomach, with which +this lady was seriously attacked when on a visit to Colonel Ovans, the +Resident at Sattara. Some indication of disordered health manifested +itself whilst she was in the Hills. Writing from thence in April, and +adverting to some incident which caused her vexation, she observed: +"My health is failing me, and I can scarcely bear any increased +subject of anxiety." She experienced in the family of Colonel Ovans +all the attention and sympathy which the kindest hospitality could +suggest; but her disorder increasing, she removed, in the hope of +alleviating it by change of air, to Poona, and arrived at the house of +her friend, Colonel Campbell, in that city, on the 16th of September. +She expired unexpectedly on the following morning. Her remains are +deposited near those of one of her own sex, who was also distinguished +for her literary talents, Miss Jewsbury. + +The death of Miss Roberts excited universal sorrow amongst all +classes, European and native, at Bombay, as well as at the other +presidencies, especially Calcutta, where the most cordial and +flattering tributes to her memory appeared in the public journals. She +had nearly completed her inquiries, and accomplished all the objects +for which she had revisited the treacherous clime of India, and one of +her latest letters to the writer of this Memoir expressed a cheerful +anticipation of her speedy return to England! "I positively leave +India next October, and am now looking joyfully to my return." + +The person and manners of Miss Roberts were extremely prepossessing. +In early life, she was handsome; and although latterly her figure +had attained some degree of fulness, it had lost none of its ease and +grace, whilst her pleasing features, marked by no lines of painful +thought, were open and expressive, beaming with animation and good +humour. She had not the slightest tinge of pedantry in her manner and +deportment, which were natural and affable, so that a stranger never +felt otherwise than at ease in her society. It was not her ambition +to make a display of mental superiority, which inspires the other sex +with any feelings but those of admiration--which is, indeed, tacitly +resented as a species of tyranny, and frequently assigned as the +ground of a certain prejudice against literary ladies. "It may safely +he said," observes a friend of her's at Calcutta, "that, although +devoted to literature as Miss Roberts was, yet in her conversation and +demeanour she evinced less of what is known as '_blue_' than any +of her contemporaries, excepting Miss Landon." Another Calcutta +acquaintance says: "Though her mind was deeply interested in subjects +connected with literature, her attention was by no means absorbed by +them, and she mixed cordially and freely in society without the least +disposition to despise persons of less intellectual elevation. She +had a true relish of all the little pleasures that promiscuous society +affords, and did not underrate those talents which are better fitted +for the drawing-room than the study." Her warmth of heart and kindness +of disposition, which co-operated with her good sense in thus removing +all disagreeable points from her external character, made her the +sincerest of friends, and ever ready to engage in any work of charity +or benevolence. + +It would be affectation to attempt in this slight Memoir to elaborate +a picture of the intellectual character of Miss Roberts, cut off, +as she has been, before that character had been fully developed. The +works, upon which her reputation as a writer principally rests, are +not, perhaps, of a quality which calls for any commanding powers +of mind. Her business was with the surfaces of things; her skill +consisted in a species of photography, presenting perfect fac-similes +of objects, animate and inanimate, in their natural forms and hues. +Deep investigations, profound reflections, and laboured and learned +disquisitions, would have defeated the very object of her lively +sketches, which was to make them, not only faithful and exact, but +popular. Of her success in this design, the following testimony from a +competent authority, the _Calcutta Literary Gazette_, is distinct +and decisive; and with this extract we may fitly close our melancholy +office: "Nothing can be more minute and faithful than her pictures of +external life and manners. She does not, indeed, go much beneath the +surface, nor does she take profound or general views of human nature; +but we can mention no traveller, who has thrown upon the printed page +such true and vivid representations of all that strikes the eye of +a stranger. Her book, entitled _Scenes and Characteristics of +Hindostan_, is the best of its kind. Other travellers have excelled +her in depth and sagacity of remark, in extent of information, and in +mere force or elegance of style; but there is a vivacity, a delicacy, +and a truth in her light sketches of all that lay immediately before +her, that have never been surpassed in any book of travels that is +at this moment present to our memory. She had a peculiar readiness in +receiving, and a singular power of retaining, first impressions of the +most minute and evanescent nature. She walked through a street or a +bazaar, and every thing that passed over the mirror of her mind left +a clear and lasting trace. She was thus enabled, even years after a +visit to a place of interest, to describe every thing with the same +freshness and fidelity as if she had taken notes upon the spot. +They who have gone over the same ground are delighted to find in +the perusal of her pages their own vague and half-faded impressions +revived and defined by her magic glass, while the novelty and +vividness of her foreign pictures make her home-readers feel that they +are nearly as much entitled to be called travellers as the fair author +herself." + + +[Footnote A: The first appeared in the Journal for December, 1832.] + +[Footnote B: For December, 1840.] + + + + +CHAPTER I. + + * * * * * + +LONDON TO PARIS. + + * * * * * + + Departure from London--A French Steam-vessel--Unfavourable + Weather--Arrival at Havre--Difficulties at the + Custom-house--Description of Havre--Embarkation on the Steamer for + Rouen--Appearance of the Country--Inclemency of the Weather--Arrival + at Rouen--Description of Rouen--Departure by the Boat for + Paris--Scenes and Traditions on the Banks of the Seine--Journey by the + Railroad to Paris--The _Douaniers_--Observations on the Journey up the + Seine. + + +A strong predilection in favour of river scenery induced me, at the +commencement of an overland journey to Bombay, through France and +Egypt, to take a passage from London in a steamer bound to Havre. +Accordingly, on the 1st of September, 1839, accompanied by some +friends, one of whom was to perform the whole journey with me, I +embarked on board the _Phenix_, a French vessel, which left the Tower +Stairs at about ten o'clock in the morning. + +The weather was showery, but occasional gleams of sunshine encouraged +us to hope that it might clear up, and permit us to keep the deck +during the greater part of the voyage, which we expected to perform in +eighteen hours. To the majority of readers, in these days of universal +travelling, it will be superfluous to describe a steam-boat; but there +may possibly be some quiet people who are still ignorant of the sort +of accommodation which it affords, and to whom the description will +not be unacceptable. + +The _Phenix_ is a fine vessel of its class, five hundred tons burthen, +and 160-horse power. It was handsomely fitted up, and the vases of +flowers upon the chimney-piece in the principal saloon, and other +ornaments scattered about, gave to the whole a gay appearance, as if +the party assembled had been wholly bent upon pleasure. The ladies' +cabin was divided by a staircase; but there were what, in a sort of +mockery, are called "state-cabins" opening into that appropriated to +the general use, around which were sofas, and bed-places upon a sort +of shelf above, for the accommodation of the gentlemen. This apartment +was handsomely carpeted, and otherwise well furnished; the steward +and his assistant having the appearance of the better class of waiters +belonging to a well-frequented hotel: all the servants were English, +and the whole afforded a most delightful contrast to the sort of +packets which many of the party on board were quite old enough to +remember. + +The passengers were numerous, and apparently inclined to make +themselves agreeable to each other; one, an American, objected to the +sight of a footman, who came upon the quarter-deck for a few minutes, +observing that such a thing would not be permitted in his country. + +As soon as the vessel got under weigh, preparations were made for +breakfast, which was served, _a la fourchette_, in very excellent +style, the cookery being a happy combination of the French and English +modes. At the conclusion of the repast, we repaired to the deck, all +being anxious to see the _British Queen_, which was getting her steam +up, at Gravesend. We were alongside this superb vessel for a few +minutes, putting some persons on board who had come down the river +in the _Phenix_ for the purpose of paying it a visit; and taking +advantage of a favourable breeze, we hoisted a sail, and went along at +a rate which gave us hope of a speedy arrival at Havre. + +After passing the Nore, however, our progress was impeded; and at +length, when off Margate, we were obliged to lie-to, in order to wait +for the turn of the tide: the wind blowing so strongly as to render +it questionable whether we could get round the Foreland. The sun +was shining on the buildings at Margate, and the bells knolling for +evening service; affording a home-scene of comfort and tranquillity +which it was agreeable to carry abroad as one of the last +reminiscences of England. + +In about three hours, we got the steam up again, and saw the +_British Queen_ in the distance, still lying to, and apparently, +notwithstanding her prodigious power, unable to get down the Channel. + +Dinner was served while the _Phenix_ lay off Margate; but it was +thinly attended, the motion of the vessel having sent many persons to +their cabins, while others were totally deprived of all appetite. An +elderly gentleman, who sate upon my left hand, complained exceedingly +of his inability to partake of the good things before him; and one or +two left the table in despair. Again we sought the deck, and saw the +sun sink behind an ominous mass of clouds; the sky, however, cleared, +and the stars came out, reviving our spirits with hopes of a fine +night. Unfortunately, soon after nine o'clock, a heavy squall +obliged us to go below, and one of my female friends and myself took +possession of a state cabin, and prepared to seek repose. + +It was my first voyage on board a steamer, and though the tremulous +motion and the stamping of the engine are anything but agreeable, I +prefer it to the violent rolling and pitching of a sailing vessel. We +were certainly not nearly so much knocked about; the vases of flowers +were taken off the mantel-piece, and placed upon the floor, but beyond +this there were no precautions taken to prevent the movables from +getting adrift; every thing remained quiet upon the tables, a +circumstance which could not have happened in so heavy a sea in any +vessel not steadied by the apparatus carried by a steamer. + +The _Phenix_ laboured heavily through the water; a torrent of rain +soon cleared the deck of all the passengers, and the melancholy voices +calling for the steward showed the miserable plight to which the male +portion of the party was reduced. Daylight appeared without giving +hope of better weather; and it was not until the vessel had reached +the pier at Havre, which it did not make until after three o'clock +P.M. on Monday, that the passengers were able to re-assemble. Many +had not tasted food since their embarkation, and none had been able to +take breakfast on the morning of their arrival. + +And here, for the benefit of future travellers, it may not be amiss +to say, that a small medicine-chest, which had been packed in a +carpet-bag, was detained at the custom-house; and that the following +day we experienced some difficulty in getting it passed, being told +that it was contraband; indeed, but for an idea that the whole party +were going on to Bombay, and would require the drugs for their own +consumption, we should not have succeeded in rescuing it from the +hands of the Philistines. The day was too far advanced to admit of +our getting the remainder of the baggage examined, a mischance which +detained us a day at Havre, the steamer to Rouen starting at four +o'clock in the morning. + +The weather was too unpropitious to admit of our seeing much of the +environs of the town. Like all English travellers, we walked about as +much as we could, peeped into the churches, made purchases of things +we wanted and things we did not want, and got some of our gold +converted into French money. We met and greeted several of our +fellow-passengers, for though little conversation, in consequence of +the inclemency of the weather, had taken place on board the _Phenix_, +we all seemed to congratulate each other upon our escape from the +horrors of the voyage. + +The gale increased rather than abated, and we now began to entertain +fears of another day's detention at Havre, the steamer from Rouen not +having arrived; and though we were very comfortably lodged, and found +the town superior to the expectations we had formed of a sea-port of +no very great consideration, we had no desire to spend more time in it +than we could help. + +Havre appears to carry on a considerable commerce with India, several +shops being wholly devoted to the sale of the productions of the +East, while the number of parrots and monkeys to be seen show that the +intercourse must be very extensive. The shops had a very English +air about them, and though the houses were taller, and rather more +dilapidated in their appearance, than they are usually found at home, +they reminded us of familiar scenes. _Hamlet_ was announced for the +evening's performance at the theatre, and but for the novelty of +dining at a _table d'hote_, we might have fancied ourselves still in +England. + +The Hotel de l'Europe is the best in Havre; there are several others +very respectable, and more picturesque, from the ancient style of the +building: all were full, intercourse with Havre being on the +increase. English carriages were arriving every hour; the steamer from +Southampton brought an immense number of passengers, and travellers +seemed to flock in from every part of the world. We were amused by +seeing a well-dressed and well-mannered Russian lady, at the _table +d'hote_, fill her plate half-full of oil, and just dip the salad into +it. + +It was the first time that one of my friends and myself had ever +visited France, and we endeavoured as much as possible to accommodate +ourselves to the manners of a strange country. We could not, however, +entirely give up our English habits, and ordered tea in the evening in +our private apartments: the French are by this time well accustomed to +requisitions of this nature, and few places are now unsupplied with a +tea-pot. + +On Tuesday morning, we were up at four o'clock, in order to embark +on board the steamer for Rouen. It rained heavily, and any hopes, the +interposition of the high houses gave, that the wind had abated, were +destroyed upon turning the first angle, and after a hasty glance at +the threatening sky and surging waters, we went below, intending, if +possible, to remain there until the weather should clear. + +Passengers now came flocking in; many respectable French families, +with their children and neatly dressed _bonnes_, were of the party; +but the young folk speedily becoming very sick, we sought the deck, +and in spite of the rain, which still continued to fall, established +ourselves as well as we were able. + +Upon entering the river, the turbulence of the water subsided a +little, and a gleam of sunshine, the first that smiled upon us, shewed +a chateau and town nestling in the midst of gardens and orchards, +and spreading down to the water's edge. The banks on either side were +picturesque, presenting the most pleasing pictures of rural enjoyment, +and conveying an idea of comfort which we had not previously +associated with the smaller classes of country residences in France. +The houses were cleanly on the outside, at least, and neither paint +nor white-wash was spared in their decoration; the surrounding +parterres were gay with flowers, amid which, as with us, dahlias made +a very conspicuous appearance. They were not, we thought, quite so +large and luxuriant as those which we see in our cottage-gardens at +home; and this remark we found afterwards would apply to the more +carefully tended plants in the pleasure-grounds of palaces. We +are probably more skilful in the adaptation of soil to foreign +importations, and therefore succeed in producing a finer flower. + +In my baggage I had brought a large basket-full of the roots of our +English hearts-ease, as a present to a French gentleman, who had +expressed a wish, in the early part of the summer, to take some with +him from London, he having been much delighted with the superior +beauty of those which he had seen in our English gardens; they were +not then in a fit state for transplanting, and having, through the +kindness of the secretary of the Royal Botanic Society, been enabled +to carry away an extensive and choice collection of roots, I indulge +a hope that I may be instrumental in spreading the finest varieties of +this pretty flower throughout France. + +We lost, of course, many scenes of beauty and interest, in consequence +of the inclemency of the weather. Just as we arrived at a most +beautiful place, a church of elegant architecture rising in the +centre, with gay-looking villas clustered round, the gathering clouds +united over our devoted heads, the rain, descending in a cataract, +beat down the smoke to the very decks, so that we all looked and felt +as if we had been up the chimney, and the whole lovely scene was lost +to us in a moment. The rain continued for about an hour after this, +and then the sky began to clear. + +We reached Rouen at about half-past twelve. The approach is very fine, +and the city makes an imposing appearance from the river. We had been +recommended to the Hotel d'Angleterre, which is the best, but were so +strongly tempted to rush into the hotel immediately opposite, that, +trusting to its exterior, we hastened to house ourselves, and found +no reason to repent our choice. We were shown into very handsome +apartments, and found the staircases, lobbies, and ante-chambers as +clean as we could desire. A change of attire and breakfast enabled us +to sally forth to see as much of the town and its neighbourhood as our +time would admit. + +The modern portion of Rouen is extremely handsome; the quay being +lined with a series of lofty stone mansions, built in the style which +is now beginning to be adopted in London. The public buildings are +particularly fine, and there are two splendid bridges, one of stone, +and one upon the suspension principle. Very extensive improvements are +going on, and it seems as if, in the course of a very few years, +the worst portions of the town will be replaced by new and elegant +erections. Meantime, imagination can scarcely afford more than a faint +idea of the horrors of the narrow, dirty streets, flanked on either +side by lofty squalid houses, in the very last stage of dilapidation. + +The cathedral stands in a small square, or market-place, where the +houses, though somewhat better than their neighbours in the lanes, +have a very miserable appearance; they make a striking picture, but +the reality sadly detracts from the pleasure which the eye would +otherwise take in surveying the fine old church, with which, through +the medium of engravings, it has been long familiar. Many workmen are +at present employed in repairing the damage which time has inflicted +upon this ancient edifice. + +The interior, though striking from its vastness, is at first rather +disappointing, its splendid windows of stained glass being the most +prominent of its ornaments. In pacing the long aisles, and pausing +before the small chapels, the scene grows upon the mind, and the +monuments, though comparatively few, are very interesting. An effigy +of Richard Coeur de Lion, lately discovered while looking for the +fiery monarch's heart, which was buried in Rouen, is shown as one of +the chief curiosities of the place. + +The porter of the cathedral inhabited an extremely small dwelling, +built up against the wall, and surrounded by high, dark buildings; but +we were pleased to see that he had cheered this dismal place of abode +by a gay parterre, several rich-looking flowers occupying pots beneath +his windows. + +Our next pilgrimage was to the statue of Joan of Arc, which we +approached through narrow streets, so dirty from the late heavy rains, +as to be scarcely passable. We had, as we might have expected, little +to reward us, except the associations connected with the Maid of +Orleans, and her cruel persecutors. The spot had been to me, from my +earliest years, one which I had felt a wish to visit, my researches, +while writing the Memoirs of the Rival Houses of York and Lancaster, +materially increasing the interest which an earlier perusal of the +history of England and France had created, concerning scenes trodden +by the brave, the great, and the good. However mistaken might have +been their notions, however impolitic their actions, we cannot +contemplate the characters of the Paladins, who have made Rouen +famous, without feelings of respect. The murder of Joan of Arc formed +the sole blot on the escutcheon of John Duke of Bedford, and the +faults and vices of his companions in arms were the offspring of the +times in which they lived. + +We were surprised by the excellence of the shops, even in the most +dilapidated parts of the city of Rouen, the windows in every direction +exhibiting a gay assemblage of goods of all descriptions, while the +confectioners were little, if at all, inferior to those of Paris. +One small square in particular, in which a market was held, was very +striking, from the contrast between the valuable products sold, and +the houses which contained them. Seven or eight stories in height, +weather-stained, and dilapidated, the lower floors exhibited handsome +porcelain and other costly articles, which gave an impression of +wealth in the owners, that astonished those amongst our party who were +strangers to the country. Our hearts absolutely sunk within us as +we thought of the wretchedness of the interiors, the misery of being +obliged to inhabit any one of the numerous suites of apartments rising +tier above tier, and from which it would be absolutely impossible to +banish vermin of every description. + +The French appear certainly to be beginning to study home comforts, +all the modern houses being built upon very commodious plans; still +the middling classes, in the towns at least, are miserably lodged, +in comparison with the same grades in England, families of apparently +great respectability inhabiting places so desolate as to strike one +with horror. + +After picking our way through the least objectionable of the streets +in the heart of the city, we were glad to escape into the open air, +and solace ourselves with the views presented on the neighbouring +heights. Nothing can be finer than the landscapes round Rouen; every +necessary of life appears to be cheap and plentiful, and persons +desirous of a quiet and economical residence abroad might spend their +time very happily in the outskirts of this picturesque city. + +We found the guests at the _table-d'hote_ chiefly English, travellers +like ourselves, and some of our party recognised London acquaintance +among those who, upon hearing our intention to proceed the following +day up the Seine to Paris, recommended the boat by which they had +arrived--the _Etoile_. + +Again we were summoned at four o'clock in the morning, and wended our +way, along the banks of the river, to the starting-place, which was +just beyond the second bridge. The one large boat, which conveyed +passengers from Havre, was here exchanged for two smaller, better +suited to the state of the river. We were taught to expect rather a +large party, as we had understood that forty persons were going from +our hotel. + +The bell of the _Dorade_, the opposition vessel, was sounding its +tocsin to summon passengers on board, while ours was altogether mute. +Presently, through the grey mist of the morning, we observed parties +flocking down to the place of embarkation, who, somewhat to our +surprise, all entered the other vessel. A large boat in the centre, in +which the baggage is deposited, was speedily filled, carpet bags being +piled upon carpet bags, until a goodly pyramid arose, which the rising +sun touched with every colour of the prism. The decks of the _Dorade_ +were now crowded with passengers, while two respectable-looking young +women, in addition to ourselves, formed the whole of our company. + +Our bell now gave out a few faint sounds, as if rather in compliance +with the usual forms observed, than from any hope that its warning +voice would be heeded; and getting up our steam, we took the lead +gallantly, as if determined to leave the heavier boat behind. +Presently, however, the _Dorade_ passed us with all her gay company, +and speeding swiftly on her way, would have been out of sight in a few +minutes, but for the windings of the river, which showed us her smoke +like a pennon in the distance. We were now left alone in our glory, +and felt assured of what we had more than suspected before, namely, +that we had got into the wrong boat. We then, though rather too +late, inquired the cause of the extraordinary disproportion of the +passengers, and were told that the _Etoile_ was the favourite boat +going down the river, while the _Dorade_ had it hollow in going up. + +We now began to consider the circumstances of the case, and the +chances of our not arriving time enough at the place of debarkation +to get on to Paris by the rail-road that night. Agreeing that the +detention would not be of the least consequence, that we should enjoy +having the whole boat to ourselves, and the slow method of travelling, +which would enable us the better to contemplate the beauties of the +river, we made up our minds to a day of great enjoyment. The weather +was fine, a cool breeze allaying the heat of the sun, which shone upon +us occasionally through clouds too high to afford any apprehension of +rain. + +The boat was very elegantly fitted up below, the ladies' cabin, in +particular, being splendidly furnished. Above, the choice of seats +proved very acceptable, since, in consequence of a new-fangled +apparatus, we had four chimnies, whence sparks escaped in a constant +shower, threatening destruction to any garment that might be exposed +to them. Seated, therefore, at the prow, beyond the reach of this +fiery shower, after partaking of an excellent breakfast, there being +a first-rate _restaurateur_ on board, we began to converse with a very +intelligent boatman, who amused us with the legends of the river and +accounts of the different places which we passed. + +At Blossville-Bon-Secours there is an extremely steep hill, with a +chapel, dedicated to the Virgin, at the summit; the holy edifice is, +upon ordinary occasions, approached by a circuitous winding road, but +at Easter and other great festivals, thousands of persons flock from +all parts, for the purpose of making a pilgrimage up the steepest +portion of the ascent, in order to fulfil vows previously made, and to +pay their homage to the holy mother of God. There was a waggery in our +friend's eye, as he described the sufferings of the devout upon these +occasions, which indicated an opinion that, however meritorious the +act, and however efficacious in shortening the path to heaven, he +himself entertained no desire to try it. This man had seen something +of the world, his maritime occupation having formerly led him to +distant places; he had been a sailor all his life, was well acquainted +with Marseilles, which he described with great enthusiasm, and gave us +to understand that, having had a good offer elsewhere, this would be +one of his last voyages in the _Etoile_, since he worked hard in it, +without getting any credit. + +At the town of Elboeuf, we picked up another passenger; a country +woman, with a basket or two, and a high Normandy cap, had come on +board at one of the villages; and with this small reinforcement we +proceeded, halting occasionally to mend some damage in the engine, and +putting up a sail whenever we could take advantage of the breeze. + +Arriving at La Roquelle, our _cicerone_ pointed out to us the ruined +walls of what once had been a very splendid chateau; its former owner +being an inveterate gamester, having lost large sums of money, at +length staked the chateau to an Englishman, who won it. Upon arriving +to take possession, he was disappointed to find that he had only +gained the chateau, and that the large estate attached to it was +not in the bond. Being unable to keep it up without the surrounding +property, he determined that no other person should enjoy it, +and therefore, greatly to the annoyance of the people in the +neighbourhood, he pulled it down. The present proprietor now lives in +an adjacent farm-house, and the story, whether true or false, +tells greatly to the prejudice of the English, and our friend, in +particular, spoke of it as a most barbarous act. + +We found the chateaux on the banks of the Seine very numerous; many +were of great magnitude, and flanked by magnificent woods, the greater +number being clipped into the appearance of walls, and cut out into +long avenues and arcades, intersecting each other at right angles, +in the very worst taste, according to the English idea of +landscape-gardening. There was something, however, extremely grand and +imposing in this formal style, and we were at least pleased with the +novelty which it afforded. + +At Andelys, perched upon a conical hill, are the picturesque remains +of the chateau Gaillard, which was built by Richard Coeur de Lion, and +must formerly have been of very great extent, its walls reaching down +to the river's brink. We were told that the chateau furnished stabling +for a thousand horses, and that there was a subterranean passage which +led to the great Andelys. This passage is now undergoing a partial +clearing, for the purpose of increasing the interest of the place, +by exhibiting it to strangers who may visit the neighbourhood. Our +informant proceeded to say, that during several years, an old witch +inhabited the ruins, who was at once the oracle and the terror of the +neighbourhood. + +The sketch-books of the party were here placed in requisition, and +though the celerity with which a steamer strides through the water +is not very favourable to the artist, a better idea of the scene was +given than that which we found in the Guide Book. The banks of the +Seine present a succession of pictures, all well worthy of the pencil, +and those who are fond of the picturesque, and who have time at their +disposal, will find the voyage up the river replete with the most +interesting materials. + +The first sight of the vineyards, which began to spread themselves up +the steep sides of the hills, delighted us all; and our prospects now +began to be diversified with rock, which in a thousand fantastic forms +showed itself along the heights. The country seemed thickly spread +with villages, many at the edge of the water, others receding into +winding valleys, and all boasting some peculiar beauty. Whether upon +a nearer approach they would have been equally pleasing, it is not +possible to say; but, from our position, we saw nothing to offend the +eye, either in the cottages or the people; some of the very +humblest of the dwellings boasted their little gardens, now gay with +sun-flowers and dahlias, while the better sort, with their bright +panes of glass, and clean muslin window-curtains, looked as if they +would afford very desirable homes. + +A present of a bottle of wine made our boatmen very happy. They +produced one of those huge masses of bread, which seems the principal +food of the lower classes, and sate down to their meal with great +content. Our dinner, which we had ordered rather early, was delayed by +the arrival of the boat at Vernon, where we were obliged, according to +the French phrase, to "mount the bridge." It was built, agreeably +to the old mode of construction, with a mill in the centre, and the +difficulty, and even danger, of getting through the arch, could not +be called inconsiderable. Letting off the steam, we were hauled up by +persons stationed for the purpose; and just as we got through, passed +the steamers going down to Rouen, the partners of the vessels which +went up in the morning; both were full, our _star_ being the only +unlucky one. However, what might have been a hardship to many others +was none to us, it being scarcely possible to imagine any thing more +delightful than a voyage which, though comparatively slow, was the +reverse of tedious, and in which we could discourse unrestrainedly, +and occupy any part of the vessel most agreeable to ourselves. We +picked up a very respectable man and his daughter, an interesting +little girl, who spoke English very tolerably, and seemed delighted to +meet with English ladies; and also an exquisite, dressed in the first +style of the Parisian mode, but of him we saw little, he being wholly +occupied with himself. + +The steam-company are entering into an arrangement at Vernon for +the construction of a lock similar to one already formed at +Pont-de-l'Arche, which we had passed through in the morning, and which +will obviate the inconvenience and difficulty of the present mode of +navigating the river. + +The next place of interest to which we came was Rosny, a village +famous in the pages of history as the residence of the great and good, +the friend and minister of Henry IV., the virtuous Sully. Our boatmen, +who were not great antiquaries, said nothing about the early occupants +of the chateau, exerting all their eloquence in praise of a later +resident--the Duchesse de Berri. This lady rendered herself extremely +popular in the vicinity, living in a style of princely splendour, and +devoting her time to acts of munificence. Every year she portioned +off a bride, giving a dowry to some respectable young lady of the +neighbourhood, while to the poor she was a liberal and untiring +benefactress. The boatmen blessed her as they passed, for to all she +sent wine, and upon fete-days gave banquets to the rural population, +to whom her remembrance will be ever dear. Our informants pointed out +a small chapel, which they described as being very beautiful, which +she had built as a depository for her husband's heart; this precious +relic she carried away with her when she left Rosny, which she quitted +with the regrets of every human being in the neighbourhood. + +The chateau has been purchased by an English banker, but is now +uninhabited: there was a report of its being about to be pulled down. +It is a large, heavy building, not distinguished by any architectural +beauty, yet having an imposing air, from its extent and solidity. +It is surrounded by fine woods and pleasure-grounds, laid out in +the formal style, which is still the characteristic of French +landscape-gardening. Nothing can be more beautiful than the +surrounding scenery, the winding river with its vineyards hanging +in terraces from the opposite heights, the village reposing beneath +sun-lit hills, while corn-fields, pasture-land, and cattle grazing, +convey the most pleasing ideas of the comfort of those who dwell upon +this luxuriant soil. + +The city of Mantes now appeared in the distance, and as we approached +it, our guides pointed out, on the opposite heights of Gassicourt, +a hermitage and Calvary, which had formerly proved a great source +of profit. An ascetic, of great pretensions to sanctity, took up his +abode many years ago in this retreat, carrying on a thriving trade, +every boat that passed contributing twopence, for which consideration +the hermit rung a bell, to announce their arrival at the bridge of +Mantes, giving notice to the town, in order to facilitate the transfer +of baggage or passengers. This tax or tribute the hermit was not +himself at the trouble of collecting, it being scrupulously despatched +to him by the donors, who would have deemed it sinful to deprive the +holy man of what they considered his just due. + +The sort of piety, which once supported so great a multitude of +religious mendicants, is greatly on the decline in France. A few +crosses on the bridges and heights, and the dresses of the priesthood +whom we encountered in the streets, were the only exterior signs of +Roman Catholicism which we had yet seen. Our boatmen spoke with great +respect of the Sisters of Charity, pointing out a convent which they +inhabited, and told us that during illness they had themselves been +greatly indebted to the care and attention of these benevolent women. + +It was now growing dark, and we very narrowly escaped a serious +accident in passing the bridge of Meulan, the boat coming into contact +with one of the piers; fortunately, the danger was espied in time. +There was now not the slightest chance of reaching Paris before the +following morning; but we regretted nothing except the want of light, +the gathering clouds rendering it impossible to see any thing of the +scenery, which, we were told, increased in beauty at every mile. We +consoled ourselves, however, with tea and whist in the cabin; in fact, +we played with great perseverance throughout the whole of our journey, +the spirits of the party never flagging for a single instant. + +We found a good hotel at the landing-place, at which we arrived at a +very late hour, and starting the next morning by the early train +to Paris, passed by the rail-road through an extremely interesting +country, leaving St. Germain-en-Laye behind, and tracking the windings +of the Seine, now too shallow to admit of the navigation of boats of +any burthen. + +The construction of this rail-road was attended with considerable +difficulty and great expense, on account of its being impeded by the +works at Marli, for the supply of water to Versailles. The building +of the bridges over the Seine, which it crosses three times, was also +very costly. The carriages of the first class are very inferior to +those of the same description upon the rail-roads in England, but they +are sufficiently comfortable for so short a distance. We were set down +at the barrier of Clichi, an inconvenient distance from the best part +of Paris. Here we had to undergo a second inspection of our baggage, +and I became somewhat alarmed for the fate of my medicine-chest. We +had taken nothing else with as that could be seizable, and this was +speedily perceived by the officials, who merely went through the form +of an examination. + +The divisions in one of my portmanteaus had excited some suspicion +at Havre, one of the men fancying that he had made a grand discovery, +when he pronounced it to have a false bottom. We explained the method +of opening it to his satisfaction, and afterwards, in overhauling +my bonnet-box, he expressed great regret at the derangement of the +millinery, which certainly sustained some damage from his rough +handling. Altogether, we had not to complain of any want of civility +on the part of the custom-house officers; but travellers who take the +overland route to India, through France, will do well to despatch all +their heavy baggage by sea, nothing being more inconvenient than a +multitude of boxes. I had reduced all my packages to four, namely, two +portmanteaus, a bonnet-box, and a leather bag, which latter contained +the medicine-chest, a kettle and lamp, lucifer-matches, &c; my +bonnet-box was divided into two compartments, one of which contained +my writing-case and a looking-glass; for as I merely intended to +travel through a portion of our British possessions in India, and +to return after the October monsoon of 1840, I wished to carry every +thing absolutely necessary for my comfort about with we. + +Another annoyance sustained by persons who take the route through +France is, the trouble respecting their passports, which must be ready +at all times when called upon for examination, and may be the cause of +detention, if the proper forms are not scrupulously gone through. We +were not certain whether it would be necessary to present ourselves +in person at the Bureau des Passeports, Quai des Orfevres, in Paris, +after having sent them to the British embassy; but we thought it +better to avoid all danger of delay, and therefore drove to a quarter +interesting on account of its being a place of some importance as +the original portion of Paris, and situated on the island. In this +neighbourhood there are also the famous Hotel Dieu and Notre Dame, +to both of which places we paid a visit, looking _en passant_ at the +Morgue. The gentleman who accompanied us entered a building, with +whose melancholy celebrity all are acquainted; but though it did not +at that precise moment contain a corpse, the report did not induce us +to follow his example: a circumstance which we afterwards regretted. +It may be necessary to say, that at other places we sent our passports +to the Hotel de Ville; but at Paris there is a different arrangement. + +Although the journey up the Seine from Havre proved very delightful to +me, I do not recommend it to others, especially those to whom time is +of importance. There is always danger of detention, and the length of +the sea-voyage, especially from London, may be productive of serious +inconvenience. For seeing the country, it is certainly preferable to +the diligence, and my experience will teach those who come after me to +inquire into the character of the steam-boat before they enter it. + + + + +CHAPTER II. + + * * * * * + +PARIS TO MARSEILLES. + + * * * * * + + Description of Paris--Departure by the Diligence--The Country--The + Vineyards--Hotels and fare--Arrival at Lyons--Description of + the City--Departure in the Steam-boat for Arles--Descent of the + Rhone--Beauty and Variety of the Scenery--Confusion on disembarking at + Beaucaire--A Passenger Drowned--Arrival at Arles--Description of the + Town--Embarkation in the Steamer for Marseilles--Entrance into the + Mediterranean--Picturesque approach to Marseilles--Arrival in the + Harbour--Description of Marseilles--Observations upon the Journey + through France by Ladies. + + +A week's residence in Paris does not give a stranger any title to +decide upon the merits or demerits of that far-famed city. The period +of the year (September) was not the most favourable for a visit, all +the best families having emigrated to their country habitations, and +the city consequently exhibited a deserted air, at variance with every +preconceived notion of the gaiety of the French capital. The mixture +of meanness and magnificence in the buildings, the dirt and bad +smells, combine to give an unfavourable impression, which time only, +and a better acquaintance with the more agreeable features of the +place, can remove. + +We had entertained a hope, upon our arrival in Paris, of getting the +_malle poste_ for our journey to Chalons; but it was engaged for at +least a month in advance. We were not more fortunate, our party now +being reduced to three, in our endeavour to secure the _coupe_, and +were obliged to be contented with places (corners) in the interior. +We despatched all our heavy goods--that is, the portmanteaus--by +_messagerie_, to Marseilles, which was a great saving of trouble. +Though the expense of this conveyance is enormous, it has the great +advantage of speed, travelling nearly as quickly as the diligence, +while by the _roulage_, which is cheaper, very inconvenient delays may +be incurred. + +We quitted Paris on the 13th of September, well pleased with the +treatment we had received. Though the charges for lodging, washing, +&c. were high, there was no attempt at imposition; our landlady +would not allow us to pay any thing for the eighth day of our abode, +although we thereby entered into another week. We had the pleasure +of leaving every body well satisfied with us, and willing to receive +another English party. + +The diligence started at the appointed hour, namely, six o'clock in +the evening. Unaccustomed to travel all night, we were rather anxious +about breakfast, as we had merely stopped to change horses, without +resting for any refreshment since we quitted Paris. Upon our arrival +at Sens, at about seven o'clock in the morning, we were amused by the +appearance of a party of persons running, gesticulating, and talking +with all their might, who brought hot coffee, milk, bread, and fruit +to the carriage-door. At first we were disinclined to avail ourselves +of the breakfast thus offered, but learning that we should not get any +thing else before twelve o'clock in the day, we overcame our scruples, +and partook of the despised fare, which we found very good of its +kind. + +The country we passed through was rich with vineyards, and, on account +of the undulating nature of the land, and the frequency of towns +and villages, exceedingly pleasing to the eye. We were continually +delighted with some splendid burst of scenery. There was no want +of foliage, the absence of the magnificent timber which we find in +England being the less remarkable, in consequence of the number of +trees which, if not of very luxuriant growth, greatly embellish the +landscape, while we saw the vine everywhere, the rich clusters of its +grapes reaching to the edge of the road. Though robbed of its +grace, and its lavish display of leaf and tendril, by the method +of cultivating, each plant being reduced to the size of a small +currant-bush, the foliage, clothing every hill with green, gave the +country an aspect most grateful to those who are accustomed to English +verdure. + +We made our first halt at Auxerre, when a _dejeuner a la fourchette_ +was served up to the travellers in the diligence. A bad English +dinner is a very bad thing, but a bad French one is infinitely worse. +Hitherto, we had fed upon nothing but the most dainty fare of the best +hotels and _cafes_, and I, at least, who wished to see as much as I +could of France, was not displeased at the necessity of satisfying the +cravings of appetite with bread and melon. There were numerous dishes, +all very untempting, swimming in grease, and brought in a slovenly +manner to the table; a roast fowl formed no exception, for it was +sodden, half-raw, and saturated with oil. It was only at the very +best hotels in France that we ever found fowls tolerably well roasted; +generally speaking, they are never more than half-cooked, and are +as unsightly as they are unsavoury. Our fellow-passengers did ample +justice to the meal, from which we gladly escaped, in order to devote +the brief remainder of our time to a hasty toilet. + +From what we could see of it, Auxerre appeared to be a very pretty +place, it being at this time perfectly enwreathed with vines. In +fact, every step of our journey increased our regret that we should be +obliged to hurry through a country which it would have delighted us +to view at leisure, each town that we passed through offering some +inducement to linger on the road. Active preparations were making +for the vintage, the carts which we met or overtook being laden with +wine-casks, and much did we desire to witness a process associated in +our minds with the gayest scenes of rural festivity. + +It would not be a fair criterion to judge of the accommodation +afforded at the hotels of the French provinces by those at which the +diligence changed horses; in some I observed that we were not shown +into the best apartments reserved for public entertainment, but in +none did we find any difficulty in procuring water to wash with, +nor did we ever see a dish substituted for a basin. From our own +observation, it seems evident that the inns in the provinces have been +much improved since the peace with England, and it appeared to us, +that no reasonable objection could be made to the accommodation +supplied. Auxerre certainly furnished the worst specimen we met with +on the road; at no other place had we any right to complain of our +entertainment, and at some the fare might be called sumptuous. + +On the third morning from our departure from Paris, when nearly +exhausted, the rising sun gave us a view of the environs of Lyons. +We had been afraid to stop at Chalons the day before, having been +informed that the Saone was not sufficiently full to ensure the +certainty of the steam-boat's arrival at the promised time at Lyons. +This was a great disappointment, but we were rewarded by the rich and +beautiful scenery which characterises the route by land. We could not +help fancying that we could distinguish the home of Claude Melnotte +amid those villages that dotted the splendid panorama; and the +pleasure, with which I, at least, contemplated the fine old city, was +not a little enhanced by its association with the Lady of Lyons and +her peasant lover. + +Lyons more than realised all the notions which I had formed concerning +it, having an air of antique grandeur which I had vainly expected +to find at Rouen. It is well-built throughout, without that striking +contrast between the newer buildings and the more ancient edifices, +which is so remarkable in the capital of Normandy. The Hotel de Ville, +in the large square, is a particularly fine building, and the whole +city looks as if it had been for centuries the seat of wealth and +commerce. + +Friends in England, and the few we met with or made in Paris, had +furnished us with the names of the hotels it would be most advisable +to put up at; but these lists were, as a matter of course, lost, and +we usually made for the nearest to the place where we stopped. The +Hotel de Paris, which looks upon the Hotel de Ville, was the one we +selected at Lyons; it was large and commodious, but had a dull and +melancholy air. As it is usual in French hotels, the building enclosed +a court-yard in the centre, with galleries running round the three +sides, and reaching to the upper stories. The furniture, handsome of +its kind, was somewhat faded, adding to the gloom which is so often +the characteristic of a provincial inn. + +As soon as possible, we sallied forth, according to our usual wont, to +see as much as we could of the town and its environs; both invited a +longer stay, but we were anxious to be at Marseilles by the 19th, and +therefore agreed to rise at half-past three on the following morning, +in order to be ready for the steamer, which started an hour after. We +had begun, indeed, to fancy sleep a superfluous indulgence; my female +friend (Miss E.), as well as myself, suffering no other inconvenience +from three nights spent in a diligence than that occasioned by swelled +feet and ancles. + +We found a very considerable number of persons in the steam-boat, many +of whom were English, and amongst them a gentleman and his wife, who, +with four children, were travelling to Nice, where they proposed to +spend the winter. The fine weather of the preceding day had deserted +us, and it rained in torrents during the first hours of the descent +of the Rhone. The wet and cold became so difficult to bear, that I +was glad to take up a position under the funnel of the steamer, +where, protected a little from the rain, I speedily got dry and warm, +enjoying the scenery in despite of the very unfavourable state of the +weather. We missed our communicative boatman of the Seine, but +met with a very intelligent German, who gave us an account of the +remarkable places _en route_, pointing out a spot once exceedingly +dangerous to boats ascending or descending, in consequence of a +projecting rock, which, by the orders of the Emperor Napoleon, had +been blown up. + +All the steamers which leave Lyons profess to go as far as Arles; but, +in order to ensure conveyance to that place the same evening, it is +necessary to ascertain whether they carry freight to Beaucaire, for in +that case they always stay the night to unlade, taking the boat on +at an early hour the following morning. We found ourselves in this +predicament; and perhaps, under all the circumstances to be related, +it would be advisable to leave the Lyons boat at Avignon and proceed +by land to Marseilles. Many of the passengers pursued this plan. + +The weather cleared up in the middle of the day, and we passed Avignon +in a rich crimson sunset, which threw its roseate flush upon the ruins +of the Papal palace, and the walls and bastions of this far-famed +city. Experience had shown us the impossibility of taking more than a +cursory view of any place in which we could only sojourn for a single +day, and therefore we satisfied ourselves with the glimpses which we +caught of Avignon from the river. A half-finished bridge, apparently +of ancient date, projects rudely into the middle of the stream; we +passed through another more modern, though somewhat difficult to +shoot; our voyage the whole day having been made under a succession of +bridges, many upon the suspension principle, and extremely light and +elegant. The beauty and variety of the scenery which presented itself, +as we shot along the banks of the Rhone, were quite sufficient to +engage our attention, and to make the hours fly swiftly along; there +were few, however, of our fellow-travellers who did not resort to +other methods of amusement. + +After the weather had cleared, the decks dried, and the sun-beams, +warming, without scorching, glanced through fleecy clouds, the greater +number of the passengers remained in the cabin below, whence, the +windows being small and high, there was literally nothing to be seen. +They employed themselves in reading, writing, or working; the French +ladies in particular being most industrious in plying the needle. We +noticed one family especially, who scarcely shewed themselves +upon deck. It consisted of the mother, an elderly lady, of a very +prepossessing appearance, with her son and daughter; the former about +thirty years old, the latter considerably younger. The dress of +the ladies, which was perfectly neat, consisting of printed muslin +dresses, black silk shawls, and drawn bonnets, seemed so completely +English, that we could scarcely believe that they were not our own +countrywomen; they were the most diligent of the workers and +readers, and as we never went down into the cabin unless to take some +refreshment, or to fetch any thing we wanted, a few brief civilities +only passed between us, but these were so cordially offered, that we +regretted that want of inclination to enjoy the air and prospect upon +deck which detained the party below. + +There was a _restaurateur_ on board the steamer, who supplied the +passengers, at any hour they pleased, with the articles inserted +in his _carte_; every thing was very good of its kind, but the boat +itself was neither handsomely nor conveniently fitted up, and I should +recommend in preference the new iron steamers which have been lately +introduced upon the Rhone. + +It was about nine o'clock in the evening when we reached Beaucaire; +one other boat stopped at this place, but the rest, to our +mortification, went on to Arles. We were told that we must be at +the river-side at four the next morning, in order to proceed, and we +therefore could not reckon upon more than four or five hours' sleep. +The night was very dark, and a scene of great confusion took place in +the disembarkation. We had agreed to wait quietly until the remainder +of the passengers got on shore; and Miss E. and myself, glad to escape +from the bustle and confusion of the deck, went down below to collect +our baggage, &c. The quay was crowded with porters, all vociferating +and struggling to get hold of parcels to carry, while the +commissionaires from the hotels were more than ever eager in +their recommendations of their respective houses: their noise and +gesticulations were so great, and their requests urged with so much +boldness, that we might have been led to suppose we had fallen into +the hands of banditti, who would plunder us the moment they got us +into their clutches. + +Miss E. had posted herself at an open window, watching this strange +scene, and while thus employed, was startled by hearing a piercing +scream, and a plunge into the water; at the same moment, the clamour +on shore became excessive. We instantly rushed upon deck, where we +found our other friend safe; and upon inquiring what had happened, +were told that a box had fallen into the river. Not quite satisfied +of the truth of this statement, we asked several other persons, and +received the same answer, the master of the steamer assuring us that +no more serious accident had occurred. + +We soon afterwards went on shore, which was then perfectly quiet, and, +preceded by a commissionaire, who had persuaded the gentleman of our +party to put himself under his convoy, we walked into the town. At +a short distance from the water, we came upon an hotel of very +prepossessing appearance, which we concluded to be the one to which we +were bound. The windows of the lower and upper floors were all open, +the rooms lighted, showing clean, gay-looking paper upon the walls, +and furniture of a tempting appearance. Our conductor, however, passed +the door, and dived down a lane, upon which we halted, and declared +our resolution to go no further. After a little parley, and amongst +other representations of the superior accommodations of the unknown +hotel, an assurance that the stables were magnificent, we gained our +point, and entered the house which had pleased us so much. We were +met at the door by two well-dressed, good-looking women, who showed us +into some excellent apartments up-stairs, all apparently newly-fitted +up, and exceedingly well-furnished. + +Ordering supper, we descended to the public room, and as we passed +to a table at the farther end, noticed a young man sitting rather +disconsolately at a window. We were laughing and talking with each +other, when, suddenly starting up, the stranger youth exclaimed, "You +are English? how glad I am to hear my own language spoken again!" He +told us that he was travelling through France to Malta, and had +come by the other steam-boat, in which there were no other English +passengers beside himself. He then inquired whether a lady had not +been drowned who came by our vessel; we answered no; but upon his +assurance that such was the fact, we began to entertain a suspicion +that the truth had been concealed from us. It was not, however, until +the next morning, that we could learn the particulars. The gentleman +who had accompanied us, and who had likewise been deceived by the +statements made to him, ascertained that the accident had befallen +the elderly French lady, with whose appearance we had been so much +pleased. She had got on board a boat moored close to ours, and +believing that she had only to step on shore, actually walked into +the river. She was only ten minutes under water, and the probabilities +are, that if the circumstance had been made known, and prompt +assistance afforded, she might have been resuscitated. Amid the number +of English passengers on board the steamer, the chances were very much +in favour of its carrying a surgeon, accustomed to the best methods +to be employed in such cases. No inquiry of the kind was made, and we +understood that the body had been conveyed to a church, there to await +the arrival of a medical man from the town. + +We were, of course, inexpressibly shocked by this fatal catastrophe, +the more so because we all felt that we might have been of use had +we been told the truth. The grief and distraction of the son and +daughter, who had thus lost a parent, very possibly prevented them +from taking the best measures in a case of such emergence; whereas +strangers, anxious to be of service, and having all their presence of +mind at command, might have afforded very important assistance. How +little had we thought, during the day spent so pleasantly upon the +Rhone, that a fiat had passed which doomed one of the party to an +untimely and violent death! Our spirits, which had been of the gayest +nature, were damped by this incident, which recurred to our minds +again and again, and we were continually recollecting some trifling +circumstance which had prepossessed us in favour of the family, thus +suddenly overwhelmed by so distressing an event. + +A couple of hours brought us to Arles, where we arrived before the +town was astir; the steamer to Marseilles did not leave the quay until +twelve o'clock, and we were tantalized by the idea of the excellent +night's rest we might have had if the steamer had fulfilled its +agreement to go on to Arles. The Marseilles boat, though a fine vessel +of its class, was better calculated for the conveyance of merchandize +than of passengers; there being only one cabin, and no possibility of +procuring any refreshment on board. This is the more inconvenient, +as there is danger in bad weather of the passage into the harbour of +Marseilles being retarded for several hours. We now lamented having +slighted an invitation to comfortable quarters in Avignon, which we +found on board the Lyons steamer, printed upon a large card. + +We were much pleased with what we saw of Arles; it is a clean, +well-built town, the streets generally rather narrow, but the houses +good. In walking about, we found many of the outer doors open, and +neat-looking female servants employed in sweeping the halls and +entries. With what I hope may be deemed a pardonable curiosity, we +peeped and sometimes stepped into these interiors, and were gratified +by the neatness and even elegance which they exhibited. We found the +people remarkably civil, and apparently too much accustomed to English +travellers to trouble themselves about us. The hotel was not of the +best class, and we only saw some very inferior _cafes_, consisting +of one small room, with a curtain before the open door, and on the +outside a rude representation, on a board, of a coffee-pot, and a +cup and saucer. All the shops at Arles had curtains at the doors, +a peculiarity which we had not previously observed in the towns of +France. We went into a handsome church, where we found a few people, +principally beggars, at prayers, and leaving a small donation in the +poor-box, beguiled the time by walking and sitting in the _boulevard_ +of the town. + +We were glad to embark at twelve o'clock, and soon afterwards we were +again in motion. The Rhone is at this place a fine broad stream; but +its banks were less interesting than those which we had passed the +previous day. We came at length to a large tract of low land, washed +on the other side by the Mediterranean, which we were told was +tenanted by troops of wild horses, known by their being invariably +white. There were certainly many horses to be seen, and amongst them +numerous white ones; but they appeared to be exceedingly tame, and had +probably only been turned out for the benefit of grazing on the salt +marsh. Possibly there might be some difficulty in catching them in so +large a plain, perfectly unenclosed, and they might have bred in these +solitudes. There were also some very peaceable-looking donkeys to +be seen, and now and then a few cows. We did not perceive any human +habitations until we came to the extreme point, where one or two low, +dreary-looking tenements had been raised. + +The view for the last hour had been magnificent, extending over a +splendid country to the lower Alps, and now Marseilles appeared in the +distance, spread upon the side of a hill down to the water, and +its environs stretching far and wide, villas and country mansions +appearing in every direction. Upon entering the Mediterranean, we were +struck by the line of demarcation which kept the green waters of the +Rhone and the deep dark blue of the sea perfectly distinct from each +other, there being no blending of tints. Here we were delighted by the +appearance of a shoal of large fish, which were seen springing out of +the water; several approached the steamer, gamboling about in the most +beautiful manner possible, darting along close to the surface, and +then making long leaps with their bodies in the air. One of our +fellow-passengers, a German, with whom we had made acquaintance, +hastened to fetch a gun; but, much to our joy, it missed fire in +several attempts to discharge it at the beautiful creatures which had +thus amused us with their sports. How strong must be the destructive +propensity, when it leads men to wanton acts of barbarity like this; +since, had a hundred fish been killed, there would have been no +possibility of getting one on board, and the slaughter must merely +have been perpetrated for slaughter's sake! Our remonstrances passed +unheeded, and we therefore did not conceal our rejoicing over the +disappointment. + +The entrance into Marseilles is very picturesque, it being guarded on +either side by high rocks, bold, and projecting in various shapes. We +found the harbour crowded with vessels of various denominations, and +amongst them several steamers, one a French ship of war, and another +the English Government steamer, appointed to carry the mails to Malta. +The smell arising from the stagnant water in the harbour of Marseilles +was at first almost intolerable, and it was not without surprise that +we saw several gay gondola-looking boats, with white and coloured +awnings, filled with ladies and gentlemen, rowing about apparently for +pleasure. + +The clock struck five as we got on shore, and, much to our annoyance, +we found that our first visit was to be paid to the customhouse. Upon +embarking at Arles, a _gens-d'armes_ had laid his finger upon our +baggage, and demanded our keys; but upon a remonstrance at the +absurdity of a re-examination, after it had passed through the whole +of France, he allowed it to be put on board inviolate. Here, however, +there was no escaping, and, tired as we were, and anxious to get to +our hotel, we were obliged to submit to the delay. Fortunately, we +were the first arrivals, and the search not being very strict, we were +not detained more than ten minutes, or a quarter of an hour, which, +under the circumstances, seemed an age. The nearest hotel was of course +our place of refuge, and we were fortunate in speedily ending a very +good one, the Hotel des Embassadeurs, an immense establishment, +exceedingly well-conducted in every respect. Here we enjoyed the prospect +of a night's rest, having, during a hundred and ten hours, only had about +ten, at two different periods, in bed. Refreshed, however, by a change +of dress, we had no inclination to anticipate the period of repose, but +hurried our toilet, in order to join the dinner at the _table-d'hote._ + +Marseilles struck us as being the handsomest and the cleanest town we +had yet seen in France. All the houses are spacious and lofty, built +of white stone, and in good condition, while every portion of the city +is well paved, either after the English fashion, or with brick, quite +even, and inserted in a very tasteful manner. Many of the streets +are extremely wide, and some are adorned with handsome fountains. +The shops are very elegant, and much more decorated than those of any +other place in France; some had paintings upon glass, richly gilded, +on either side of the doors, handsome curtains hung down within, and +the merchandise displayed was of the best description. These shops +were also well lighted, and together with the brilliant illuminations +of the neighbouring _cafes_, gave the streets a very gay appearance. +We wandered about until rather a late hour; the _cafes_, both inside +and outside, were crowded with gentlemen; but in the promenades we +saw fewer ladies than we had expected, and came to the conclusion--an +erroneous one in all probability--that French women stay very much at +home. Assuredly, the beauty of the night was most inviting; but, worn +out at last, we were obliged to retire to our hotel. + +The next day, we made inquiries concerning the steamers, and +learned that the French boat was certainly to start on the following +afternoon, the 21st, while the departure of the English vessel +was uncertain, depending upon the arrival of the mails. Though +disappointed at finding that the French steamer did not touch at +Naples, as I had been led to believe, I felt inclined to take my +passage in her; but the advantage of being in time to meet the Bombay +steamer at Suez was so strongly urged upon me, in consequence of the +ticklish state of affairs in Egypt, that, finding plenty of room on +board the _Niagara_, we engaged a couple of berths in the ladies' +cabins. Mehemet Ali was represented to us as being so obstinately +determined to retain possession of the Turkish fleet, and the British +Government so urgent with France to support the Porte against him, +that, if this intelligence was to be depended upon, no time ought to +be lost. It was with reluctance that I gave up my original intention +of lingering on the road, and at Malta, but my unwillingness to run +any risk of being shut out of Egypt prevailed. After executing this +necessary business, we engaged a carriage, and paying a visit to the +British consul, drove about the town and its environs, being the more +pleased the more we saw of both. There appeared to be a deficiency of +trees in the landscape, but a peculiar air of its own compensated for +the want of foliage. + +The private streets and houses of Marseilles are very regular and +well built, nor did we see any portion of the town of a very inferior +description. I should have liked much to have remained a few weeks in +it, and indeed regretted the rapidity of my journey through France, +not being able to imagine any thing more delightful than a leisure +survey of the country through which we passed. I had been so strongly +determined to make the overland trip to India, that I would have +undertaken it quite alone, had I not met with a party to accompany me; +some kind friends would not allow me, however, to make the experiment; +nor do I recommend ladies, unless they are very well acquainted +with the country, to travel through it without the protection of a +gentleman, a courier, or a good servant. Miss E. and myself performed +the whole distance without a care or a thought beyond the objects on +the road; but this we owed entirely to the attention of the gentleman +who put us safely on board the Malta steamer, and who managed every +thing for us upon the way, so that we were never in one single +instance subjected to the slightest annoyance. + + + + +CHAPTER III. + + * * * * * + +MARSEILLES TO ALEXANDRIA. + + * * * * * + + Venations at the Custom-house--Embarkation on the Malta + Steamer--Difficulties of exit from the Harbour--Storm--Disagreeable + Motion of the Steam-vessel--Passengers--Arrival at Malta--Description + of the City--Vehicles--Dress of the Maltese Women--State of + Society--Church of St. John--The Palace--The Cemetery of the Capuchin + Convent--Intolerance of the Roman Catholic Priesthood--Shops, + Cafes, and Hotels--Manufactures and Products of Malta--Heat of + the Island--Embarkation on board an English Government + Steamer--Passengers--A young Egyptian--Arrival at Alexandria--Turkish + and Egyptian Fleets--Aspect of the City from the Sea--Landing. + + +At twelve o'clock on the morning of the 21st of September, we were +informed that the English Government-mails had not arrived, and that +the probabilities were in favour of their not reaching Marseilles +until five o'clock; in which event, the steamer could not leave the +harbour that night. We, therefore, anticipated another day in our +pleasant quarters; but thought it prudent to take our baggage +on board. Upon getting down to the quay, we were stopped by a +_gens-d'armes,_ who desired to have our keys, which we of course +immediately surrendered. On the previous day, while driving about +the town, our progress had been suddenly arrested by one of these +officials, with an inquiry whether we had any thing to declare. He was +satisfied with our reply in the negative, and allowed us to proceed. A +gentleman afterwards asked me whether, in my travels through France, +I had not observed that the police was a mere political agent, +established for the purpose of strengthening the hands of the +government, and not, as in England, intended for the protection of the +people? I could only reply, that we had lost nothing in France, and +that property there appeared to be as secure as at home. Certainly, +the interference of the _gens-d'armes_ about the baggage, and the +continual demand for our passports, were very vexatious, detracting in +a great degree from the pleasure of the journey. + +We found the rate of porterage excessively high; the conveyance of our +baggage to and fro, as we passed from steam-boats to hotels, proving, +in the aggregate, enormous; the whole went upon a truck, which one +man drew, with apparent ease, and for a very short distance, we paid +nearly double the sum demanded for the hire of a horse and cart in +London, from Baker Street, Portman Square, to the Custom House. + +Upon getting on board the _Megara_, we found that the mails were in +the act of delivery, and that the vessel would start without delay. +We had now to take leave of the friend who had seen us so far upon our +journey, and to rely wholly upon ourselves, or the chance civilities +we might meet with on the road. Our spirits, which had been so gay, +were much damped by the loss of a companion so cheerful and ready +to afford us every enjoyment within our reach, and we in consequence +thought less of the danger to which we were shortly afterwards +exposed, the pain of parting being the paramount feeling. + +There is always some difficulty in getting out of the harbour of +Marseilles, and the natural obstacles are heightened by the want of +a superintending power. There is no harbour-master, to regulate +the movements of vessels, and to appoint their respective places; +consequently, there is generally a great deal of confusion; while +serious accidents are not unfrequent. + +Before we got under weigh, I saw my old acquaintance, Hussein Khan, +the Persian ambassador, go on board the French steamer, which was +anchored within a short distance of us. He was received with all the +honours due to his rank; which, by the way, was not acknowledged in +England; and his suite, whom we had seen lounging at the doors of the +_cafes_ the evening before, made a gay appearance on the deck. + +We got foul of one or two ships as we went out, and just as we left +the harbour, the clouds, which had threatened all the morning, burst +upon us in a tremendous storm, accompanied by thunder and lightning. +The rain came down in torrents, sweeping along the decks, while a +heavy squall threatened to drive us upon the rocks, which we had +admired so much as the guardians of the port. In this emergency, we +were compelled to drop our anchor, and remain quiescent until the fury +of the elements had abated. The storm passed away about midnight, and +getting the steam up, we were far away from Marseilles and _la belle +France_ before morning. + +The _Megara_ belonged to a class of steamers built for the government +upon some new-fangled principle, and which have the art of rolling in +any sea. Though the waters of the Mediterranean were scarcely ruffled +by the breeze, which was in our favour, there was so much motion in +the vessel, that it was impossible to employ ourselves in any way +except in reading. In other respects, the _Megara_ was commodious +enough; the stern cabin, with smaller ones opening into it, and each +containing two bed-places, was appropriated to the ladies, the whole +being neatly fitted up. We found some agreeable fellow-passengers; the +only drawback being a family of three children. In consequence of the +cabins being thus occupied, we could not preserve the neatness +and order which are so essential to comfort, and which need not be +dispensed with even in a short voyage. + +Our commandant, Mr. Goldsmith, a descendant of the brother of the +poet, and who appeared to have inherited the benevolence of his +distinguished relative, was indefatigable in his exertions to render +us happy. He had procured abundant supplies for the table, which was +every day spread with a profusion of good things, while eight or ten +different kinds of wine, in addition to ale and porter, were placed +at the disposal of the guests. Nothing, indeed, was wanting, except a +French cook. No single meal had ever disagreed with us in France; but +though partaking sparingly, we felt the inconvenience of the heavy +English mode of cookery. + +Amongst the attendants at table was one who speedily grew into the +good graces of all the passengers. A little fellow, eight years +old, but who did not look more than seven, placed himself at the +commandant's elbow, who immediately upon seeing him exclaimed, with a +benevolent smile, "What, are you here, Jemmy? then we are all right." +Jemmy, it seems, was the boatswain's son, and no diminutive page +belonging to a spoiled lady of quality, or Lilliputian tiger in the +service of a fashionable aspirant, could have been dressed in more +accurate costume. Jemmy was every inch a sailor; but, while preserving +the true nautical cut, his garments were fashioned with somewhat +coxcombical nicety, and he could have made his appearance upon any +stage as a specimen of aquatic dandyism. Jemmy would be invaluable on +board a yacht. His services at table were rewarded by a plateful of +pudding, which he ate standing at the captain's right hand, after +having, with great propriety, said grace. The little fellow had been +afloat for a year and a half; but during this period his education +had not been neglected, and he could read as well as any person in the +ship. + +Amongst our passengers was a French gentleman, the commandant and +owner of an Indiaman, which had sailed from Bordeaux to Bombay under +the charge of the first officer. He had previously made twelve voyages +to India; but now availed himself of the shorter route, and proposed +to join his vessel at Bombay, dispose of the cargo, and, after taking +in a new freight, return through Egypt. The only coasts in sight, +during our voyage from Marseilles to Malta, were those of Sardinia +and Africa, Sicily being too far off to be visible. We were not near +enough to Sardinia to see more than a long succession of irregular +hills, which looked very beautiful under the lights and shades of a +lovely summer sky. The weather was warm, without being sultry, and +nothing was wanting excepting a few books. Mr. Goldsmith regretted the +absence of a library on board, but expressed his intention of making a +collection as speedily as possible. + +The excessive and continual motion of the vessel caused me to suffer +very severely from seasickness; the exertion of dressing in the +morning always brought on a paroxysm, but I determined to struggle +against it as much as possible, and was only one day so completely +overpowered as to be unable to rise from the sofa. This sickness +was the more provoking, since there was no swell to occasion it, the +inconvenience entirely arising from Sir Somebody Symonds' (I believe +that is the name) method of building. What the _Megara_ would be in a +heavy sea, there is no saying, and I should be very sorry to make the +experiment. + +We found ourselves at Malta at an early hour of the morning of +the 25th, having been only five nights and four days on board. Mr. +Goldsmith celebrated our last dinner with a profusion of champaigne, +and though glad to get out of the vessel, we felt unfeignedly sorry to +take leave of our kind commandant. We were, of course, up by daylight, +in order to lose nothing of the view. + +Much as I had heard of the gay singularity of the appearance of Malta, +I felt surprise as well as delight at the beautiful scene around; +nor was I at all prepared for the extent of the city of Valetta. The +excessive whiteness of the houses, built of the rock of which +the island is composed, contrasted with the vivid green of their +verandahs, gives to the whole landscape the air of a painting, in +which the artist has employed the most brilliant colours for sea +and sky, and habitations of a sort of fairy land. Nor does a nearer +approach destroy this illusion; there are no prominently squalid +features in Malta, the beggars, who crowd round every stranger, being +the only evidence, at a cursory gaze, of its poverty. + +Soon after the _Megara_ had dropped anchor, a young officer from the +_Acheron_, the steamer that had brought the mails from Gibraltar, came +on board to inquire whether I was amongst the passengers, and gave me +the pleasing intelligence that a lady, a friend of mine, who had left +London a few days before me, was now in Malta, and would proceed to +India in the vessel appointed to take the mails. She was staying at +Durnsford's Hotel, a place to which I had been strongly recommended. +Mr. Goldsmith was kind enough to promise to see our heavy baggage on +board the _Volcano_, the vessel under sailing orders; and a clergyman +and his wife, resident in Malta, who had gone to Marseilles for a +change of scene and air, inviting Miss E. and myself to accompany them +on shore, we gladly accepted their offer. + +We found a _caless_ in waiting for us; a very singular description of +vehicle, but one common to the island. I had seen representations of +these carriages in old engravings, but had not the least idea that +they were still in use. They have only two wheels, placed behind, so +that the horse has to bear the weight of the vehicle as well as to +draw it; and there is something so inexpressibly odd in the whole +arrangement, that it put me in mind of the equipages brought on the +stage in a Christmas pantomime. Our _caless_ held four persons very +conveniently, and was really a handsome vehicle, gaily lined with +scarlet leather, and having spring seats. We saw others plying for +hire, of a very inferior description; some only calculated for two +persons, and of a faded and dilapidated appearance. They seem to be +dangerous conveyances, especially for the poor horse; we heard of one +being upset, on a steep hill, and breaking the neck of the animal that +drew it. In driving, we were obliged to take rather a circuitous route +to our inn, though the distance, had we walked, would have been very +inconsiderable. We were glad of the opportunity of seeing a little +of the suburbs, and were almost sorry to arrive at the place of our +destination. + +As we came along we were delighted with the picturesque appearance +of the Maltese women, whose national dress is at once nunlike and +coquettish. A black petticoat envelopes the form from the waist, and +over that is thrown a singular veil, gathered into a hood, and kept +out with a piece of whalebone. This covering, which is called the +_faldetta_, is capable of many arrangements, and is generally disposed +so as to "keep one eye free to do its worst of witchery." When one +of the poorer classes is enabled to clothe herself in a veil and +petticoat of silk, she considers that she has gained the _acme_ of +respectability. The streets of the city of Valetta are extremely +narrow, and the houses high; a great advantage in such a climate, as +it ensures shade, while, as they generally run at right angles, they +obtain all the breeze that is to be had. + +The appearance of our hotel was prepossessing. We entered through a +wide gateway into a hall opening upon a small court, in the centre of +which stood a large vase, very well sculptured, from the stone of the +island, and filled with flowers. A wide handsome staircase, also of +stone, with richly-carved balustrades, and adorned with statues and +vases, conducted us to a gallery, two sides of which were open, and +the other two closed, running round the court-yard, and affording +entrance to very good apartments. Every thing was perfectly clean; +the bedsteads of iron, furnished with mosquito-curtains; and we were +supplied immediately with every article that we required. + +As the rolling of the _Megara_ had prevented the possibility +of forming a sentence, we sat down to write letters, and having +despatched a few of the introductions to residents, with which my +friends in England had supplied me, I was agreeably surprised by some +visits which I had scarcely expected, as we found that we should be +obliged to embark for Alexandria in the evening. + +I did not hear very flattering accounts of the state of society at +Malta, which, like that of all other confined places, is split into +factions, and where there seems to be a perpetual struggle, by the +least fortunate classes, to assert equality with those whose rank is +acknowledged; thus every person attached to the government assumes +eligibility for the _entre_ into the best circles, while the +magnates of the place are by no means inclined to admit them to these +privileges. It appeared that the endeavours of the Commissioner to +produce a greater degree of cordiality between the Maltese inhabitants +and the English residents, so far from succeeding, had tended to +widen the distance between them, and that the Maltese were by no means +grateful for the efforts made for their improvement. However, though +the fruits may not at present appear, the seed having been sown, we +may entertain a strong hope that they will show themselves in time. + +While an undertaking so gigantic as the diffusion of the English +language throughout India has been attempted, it seems rather +extraordinary that the efforts of the committee should not have +been directed to the same result in Malta, and that the progress of +education should not have been conducted in the language that promised +to prove the most useful to subjects of the British crown; but it +appears that the committee decided otherwise, and complaints are +making, that the instruction now supplied at the schools is of the +most superficial nature, and by no means calculated to produce the +desired end. + +Every object in Malta bears witness to the ingenuity and industry of +its inhabitants. The softness of the stone renders it easily cut, and +the Dowager Marchioness of Hastings (who has left imperishable marks +of her desire to benefit those who came under her observation), in +supplying the best designs, has filled the shops of Malta with a +tasteful species of _bijouterie_, which is eagerly sought after by +all the visitors. The carved work of Malta is sold very cheap; but the +same quality, which renders it so easily cut, occasions it to chip, +and, therefore, great care is necessary in packing these fragile +articles. + +As soon as possible, we sallied forth to inspect the far-famed church +of St. John, and found our expectations more than gratified by the +interior of this gorgeous edifice. It was not, however, without +melancholy feelings, that we reflected on the miserable remnant of +those valiant knights, who had made Malta celebrated throughout all +history, and who, on the suppression of the order, were suffered to +languish out the remainder of their existence in obscurity. Mass was +performing at the time of our entrance, and seating ourselves in one +of the side chapels until it should be over, we were at its conclusion +accosted by a priest, who, finding that we did not speak Italian, sent +another person to show the beauties of the church. Some Maltese ladies +greeted us very courteously, and though, perhaps, we would rather have +wandered about alone, indulging in our own recollections of the past, +we could not help being pleased with the attentions which were paid +us. + +Upon returning to our inn, we met a gentleman with whom we were +slightly acquainted, who, upon learning that I had a letter to Sir +Henry Bouverie, the governor, recommended me to deliver it in person, +the palace being close at hand. Our party met with a very courteous +reception, and we were happy in the opportunity thus afforded of +seeing the palace, which showed remains of former grandeur far +more interesting than any modern improvements could have been. One +apartment, in particular, hung round with tapestry, which, though +brought from France 135 years ago, retains all the brilliancy of its +original colouring, pleased us exceedingly. + +There are some good paintings upon the walls; but the armoury is the +most attractive feature in the palace. It consists of one splendid +apartment, running the whole length of the building, and makes a very +imposing appearance; the arms of various periods being well arranged. +The collection of ancient weapons was not so great as I had expected; +still there were very interesting specimens, and an intelligent +corporal, belonging to one of the Queen's regiments, who acted as +_Cicerone_, gave us all the information we could require. + +Some of our party had the curiosity to visit the cemetery of the +Capuchin convent, in which the monks who die, after having undergone +a preserving process, are dressed in the habit of the order, and +fastened up in niches; when the skeletons, from extreme age, actually +fall to pieces, the skulls and bones are formed into funeral trophies +for the decoration of the walls; and the whole is described as a most +revolting and barbarous spectacle. The last occupant was said to have +departed this life as late as 1835, adding, by the comparative newness +of his inhumation, to the horrors of the scene. + +The influence of the priesthood, though still very great, is +represented to be upon the decline; they have lately, however, +shown their power, by retarding the progress of the building of the +Protestant church, to which the Dowager Queen Adelaide so munificently +subscribed. All the workmen employed are obliged to have dispensations +from the Pope, and every pretext is eagerly seized upon to delay the +erection of the edifice. At present, the Protestant community, with +few exceptions, are content to have service performed in an angle of +the court-yard of the palace, formerly a cellar and kitchen, but now +converted into an episcopal chapel and vestry-room. The members of +the society have a small chapel, not adequate to the accommodation of +those who desire to attend it, belonging to the Methodist persuasion; +but its minister is afraid to encounter the difficulties and delays +which would be consequent upon an attempt to enlarge it. There is a +public library adjoining the palace, originally formed by the knights, +but considered now to be more extensive than valuable. + +The period which I spent upon the island was too brief to allow me to +make any inquiries respecting its institutions, the novelties of +the scene engaging my attention so completely, that I could give no +thought to anything else. The shops and _cafes_ of La Valetta have a +very gay appearance, and the ingenuity of the inhabitants is displayed +in several manufactures; the black lace mittens, now so fashionable, +being particularly well made. Table-linen, also of superior quality, +may be purchased, wrought in elegant patterns, and, if bespoken, with +the coat-of-arms or crest worked into the centre or the corners. In +the fashioning of the precious metals, the Maltese likewise excel, +their filagree-work, both in gold and silver, being very beautiful: +the Maltese chains have long enjoyed a reputation in Europe, and other +ornaments may be purchased of equal excellence. + +To the eye of a stranger, Malta, at this period of the year (the end +of September), seems bare and destitute of verdure; yet, from the +quantity of every kind of vegetables brought to market, it must be +amazingly productive. The growth of cotton, lately introduced into +Egypt, has been injurious to the trade and manufactures of Malta, and +the attempt to supply its place with silk failed. In the opinion of +some persons, the experiment made had not a fair trial. The mulberry +trees flourished, and the silk produced was of an excellent quality; +but the worms did not thrive, and in consequence the design was +abandoned. Inquiry has shown, that the leaves from old trees are +essential to the existence of the silk-worm, and that, had the +projectors of the scheme been aware of a fact so necessary to be +known, they would have awaited the result of a few more years, which +seems all that was necessary for the success of the undertaking. +How many goodly schemes have been ruined from the want of scientific +knowledge upon the part of their projectors, and how frequently it +happens that a moment of impatience will destroy the hopes of years! + +Fruit is cheap, plentiful, and excellent at Malta, the figs and grapes +being of very superior quality, while the island affords materials for +the most luxurious table. The golden mullet and the _Becca fica_ are +abundant; and all the articles brought to market are procurable at +low prices. I can scarcely imagine a more agreeable place to spend a +winter in, and I promise myself much gratification in the sojourn of +a few weeks at this delightful island upon my return to England. I can +very strongly recommend Durnsford's Hotel as a place of residence, the +accommodation being excellent and the terms moderate. In remaining any +time, arrangement may be made for apartments and board, by which means +the rate of living is much cheaper, while the style is equally good. + +There is an opera at Malta, in which performances of various degrees +of mediocrity are given. The gay period to a stranger is that of the +carnival; but, at other times, the festivals of the church, celebrated +in this isolated place with more of the mummeries of Roman Catholicism +than obtain in many other countries professing the same faith, afford +amusement to the lovers of the grotesque. + +Though the thermometer at Malta seldom rises to 90 deg., yet the heat in +the sultry season is very great. Every person, who is in the habit of +studying the glass, becomes aware of the difference between the heat +that is actually felt and that which is indicated by instruments; and +in no place is this discrepancy more sensibly experienced than Malta, +in which the state of the winds materially affects the comfort of the +inhabitants. A good authority assures us, that "the heat of Malta +is most oppressive, so much so, as to justify the term 'implacable,' +which is often applied to it. The sun, in summer, remains so long +above the horizon, and the stone walls absorb such an enormous +quantity of heat, that they never have sufficient time to get +cool; and during the short nights, this heat radiates from them so +copiously, as to render the nights, in fact, as hot as the days, and +much more oppressive to the feelings of those who are accustomed +to associate the idea of coolness with darkness. I have seen the +thermometer, in a very sheltered part of my house, steadily maintain, +during the night, the same height to which it had arisen in the day, +while I marked it with feelings of incalculably increased oppression, +and this for three successive weeks in August and September, 1822." + +At Malta, we were recommended, in consequence of the unsettled state +of affairs between Mehemet Ali and the European powers, to proceed +forthwith to Egypt, and though strongly tempted to prolong my stay in +the island, I thought it advisable to make the best of my way to the +Red Sea, and defer the pleasure, which a more protracted residence +promised, until my return in the ensuing year. Lieut. Goldsmith, our +kind commandant of the _Megara_, called upon us, according to promise, +to conduct us on board the new steamer, the _Volcano_, the vessel +appointed to carry the mails on to Alexandria. This ship was in +quarantine, and it was consequently necessary to take some precautions +in going on board. We proceeded, in the first instance, to a police +station, where we took a second boat in tow, and a _guadiano_, an +official appointed to see that no persons transgress the rules and +regulations of the port instituted for the preservation of health. + +Upon getting alongside of the _Volcano_, our baggage was placed in +this boat; Miss E. and myself were then handed in, and cast adrift, to +my great astonishment; for not having had any previous intimation of +the method to be pursued, I was not at all prepared to hold on, as I +believe it is called, without assistance. Miss E., however, who was +more observant, hooked her parasol into one of the ropes, which +she subsequently caught. We were now to be taught a new lesson--the +extreme nonchalance with which the officers of a Government steamer +treat the passengers who have the misfortune to choose these boats +instead of making the voyage on board merchant vessels. Some minutes +elapsed before any notice was taken of us, or any assistance afforded +in getting up our baggage; our own people being obliged to look on +and do nothing, since, had they touched the ship, they would have been +obliged to perform eighteen days of quarantine. + +Upon reaching the deck, we requested that our baggage might be taken +down into the ladies' cabin, in order that we might get our small +dormitories put to rights before the rest of the passengers came on +board; but, though it could have made no earthly difference to the +people employed, we met with a refusal, and the whole was deposited in +the grand saloon, already encumbered with luggage, every quarter of an +hour adding to the heap and the confusion, and the difficulty of each +person recognizing the identical carpet-bag or portmanteau that he +might claim as his property.[A] + +Among our new fellow-passengers there was a young English gentleman, +who intended to travel into Syria, and who, though looking scarcely +twenty, had already spent some years in foreign countries. He was very +modest and unassuming, and both agreeable and intelligent; and, having +had a good deal of conversation together, I was sorry to lose sight of +him at Alexandria. + +We had also one of Mehemet Ali's _proteges_ on board, a young +Egyptian, who had been educated at the Pasha's expense in England, +where he had resided for the last ten years, latterly in the +neighbourhood of a dock-yard, in order to study the art of +ship-building. This young man was a favourite with those persons on +board who could make allowances for the circumstances in which he had +been placed, and who did not expect acquirements which it was almost +impossible for him to attain. His natural abilities were very good, +and he had cultivated them to the utmost of his power. Strongly +attached to European customs, manners, and institutions, he will lose +no opportunity of improving the condition of his countrymen, or of +inducing them to discard those prejudices which retard the progress +of civilization. He was naturally very anxious concerning his future +destiny, for the Pasha's favour is not always to be depended upon, +while the salary of many of the appointments which he does bestow is +by no means adequate to the support of men whom his liberality has +enabled to live in great respectability and comfort in England. Our +new acquaintance also felt that, in returning to his friends and +relatives, he should shock all their prejudices by his entire +abandonment of those customs and opinions by which they were still +guided; he grieved especially at the distress which he should cause +his mother, and determined not to enter into her presence until he had +assumed the national dress, and could appear, outwardly at least, like +an Egyptian. + +The weather, during our short voyage, was remarkably favourable, +although it got rather too warm, especially at night, for comfort. +There are, however, great alleviations to heat in the Mediterranean +steamers. The ladies can have a wind-sail in their cabin, which, +together with the air from the stern windows, renders the temperature +at all times very delightful. They enjoy another advantage in having +a light burning all night, a comfort which cannot be too highly +appreciated, since darkness on board ship increases every other +annoyance. + +We left Malta on the evening of the 25th, and arrived at Alexandria +early in the morning of the 30th. Every eye was strained to catch the +first view of the Egyptian coast, and especially of the Pharos, which +in ancient time directed the mariners to its shores; but the great +object of attraction at this period consisted of the united fleets, +Turkish and Egyptian, which rode at anchor in the port. Our steamer +threaded its way amid these fine-looking vessels, some of which we +passed so closely, as to be able to look into the cabin-windows. To +my unprofessional eye, these ships looked quite as efficient as any +warlike armament of the same nature that I had yet seen. They all +appeared to be well kept, and in good order, while the sailors were +clean, neatly dressed, and actively engaged, some in boats, and others +performing various duties. Though steamers are now very common sights, +we in turn attracted attention, all eyes being directed to our deck. + +Our Egyptian fellow-passenger was especially interested and agitated +at his approach to his native shore, and the evidences which he saw +before him of the power and political influence of the Pasha. From a +gentleman who came on board, we learned that an apprehension had +been entertained at Alexandria of the arrival of a hostile fleet from +Europe, in which event a collision would in all probability have +taken place. Mehemet Ali, it was said, was so foolishly elated by +his successes, and by the attitude he had assumed, as to be perfectly +unaware of his true position, and of the lesson which he would +receive, should he persist in defying the remonstrances of his +European allies. It was also said, that nothing but the favour +shown by the French cabinet to the Pasha had hitherto prevented the +commencement of hostilities, since the British Government, taking the +view of its representative at Constantinople, felt strongly inclined +to proceed to extremities. I merely, of course, state the rumour that +prevailed; whether they carried the slightest authority or not, I do +not pretend to determine. + +Alexandria, from the sea, presents a very imposing appearance; long +lines of handsome buildings, apparently of white stone, relieved by +green Venetian blinds, afford evidence of increasing prosperity, and +a wish to imitate the style of European cities. There is nothing, +however, in the landing-place worthy of the approach to a place of +importance; a confused crowd of camels, donkeys, and their drivers, +congregated amidst heaps of rubbish, awaited us upon reaching the +shore. We had been told that we should be almost torn to pieces by +this rabble, in their eagerness to induce us to engage the services of +themselves or their animals. Accustomed as we had been to the attacks +of French waiters, we were astonished by the indifference of the +people, who very contentedly permitted us to walk to the place of our +destination. + +The lady-passengers, who arrived in the steamer, agreed to prosecute +the remainder of the journey in company; our party, therefore, +consisted of four, with two servants, and a baby; the latter a +beautiful little creature, of seven months old, the pet and delight of +us all. This darling never cried, excepting when she was hungry, and +she would eat any thing, and go to any body. One of the servants +who attended upon her was a Mohammedan native of India, an excellent +person, much attached to his little charge; and we were altogether a +very agreeable party, quite ready to enjoy all the pleasures, and to +encounter all the difficulties, which might come in our way. + +Having formed my expectations of Alexandria from books of travels, +which describe it as one of the most wretched places imaginable, I was +agreeably disappointed by the reality. My own experience of +Mohammedan cities had taught me to anticipate much more of squalor and +dilapidation than I saw; though I confess, that both were sufficiently +developed to strike an European eye. We wended our way through +avenues ancle-deep in sand, and flanked on either side with various +descriptions of native houses, some mere sheds, and others of more +lofty and solid construction. We encountered in our progress several +native parties belonging to the respectable classes; and one lady, +very handsomely dressed, threw aside her outer covering, a dark silk +robe, somewhat resembling a domino, and removing her veil, allowed us +to see her dress and ornaments, which were very handsome. She was +a fine-looking woman, with a very good-natured expression of +countenance. + + +[Footnote A: The author followed up these remarks with others, still +more severe, upon the treatment which she and her fellow-travellers +experienced on board this vessel; but as these remarks seem to have +caused pain, and as Miss Roberts, without retracting one particle of +her statements, regretted that she had published them, it has been +deemed right to omit them in this work.] + + + + +CHAPTER IV. + + * * * * * + +ALEXANDRIA TO BOULAK. + + * * * * * + + Description of Alexandria--Hotels--Houses--Streets--Frank + Shops--Cafes--Equipages--Arrangements for the Journey to + Suez--Pompey's Pillar--Turkish and Arab Burial-grounds--Preparations + for the Journey to Cairo--Embarkation on the Canal--Bad accommodation + in the Boat--Banks of the Canal--Varieties of Costume in + Egypt--Collision during the night--Atfee--Its wretched appearance--The + Pasha--Exchange of Boats--Disappointment at the Nile--Scarcity of + Trees--Manners of the Boatmen--Aspect of the Villages--The Marquess + of Waterford--The Mughreebee Magician--First sight of the + Pyramids--Arrival at Boulak, the Port of Cairo. + + +There are several excellent hotels at Alexandria for the accommodation +of European travellers. We were recommended to Rey's, in which we +found every comfort we could desire. The house is large and handsome, +and well situated, being at the end of a wide street, or rather +_place_, in which the more wealthy of the Frank inhabitants reside, +and where there are several houses belonging to the consuls of +various nations. These latter are usually detached mansions, of a +very handsome description, and one especially, facing the top, will be +magnificent when finished. + +All the houses in this quarter are very solidly constructed, lofty, +and with flat roofs. The ground-floor seems to be appropriated to +merchandize, or as domestic offices, the habitable apartments being +above. The windows are supplied with outside Venetian blinds, usually +painted green, which, together with the pure white of the walls, gives +them a fresh and new appearance, which I had not expected to see. In +fact, nothing could exceed the surprise with which I viewed a street +that would have excited admiration in many of our European capitals. +It will in a short time be embellished by a fountain, which was +erecting at the period of my visit: could the residents get trees +to grow, nothing more would be wanting to render it one of the +most superb avenues of the kind extant; but, a few inches below the +surface, the earth at Alexandria is so completely impregnated +with briny particles, as to render the progress of vegetation very +difficult at all times, and in some places impossible. + +This portion of the city is quite modern; near it there is a more +singular and more ancient series of buildings, called the _Okella_; +a word, I believe, derived from _castle_. This consists of one large +quadrangle, or square, entered by gateways at different sides. A +terrace, approached by flights of steps, extends all round, forming +a broad colonnade, supported upon arches. The houses belonging to the +Franks open upon this terrace; they are large and commodious, but the +look-out does not equal that from the newer quarter; the quadrangle +below exhibiting any thing rather than neatness or order. Goods and +utensils of various kinds, donkeys, camels, and horses, give it the +appearance of the court of a native serai, though at the same time +it may be said to be quite as well kept as many places of a similar +description upon the continent of Europe. The Frank shopkeepers have +their establishments in a narrower avenue at the end of the wide +street before-mentioned. Here are several _cafes_, apparently for the +accommodation of persons to whom the hotels might be too expensive; +some of these are handsomely fitted up in their way: one, especially, +being panelled with shewy French paper, in imitation of the Gobelins +tapestry. I was not sufficiently near to discern the subject, but +when lighted, the colours and figures produced a very gay effect. +I observed a considerable number of druggists' shops; they were +generally entirely open in front, so that the whole economy of the +interior was revealed to view. The arrangements were very neat; the +various articles for sale being disposed upon shelves all round. +We did not make any purchases either here or in the Turkish bazaar, +which, both morning and evening, was crowded with people. Several very +good houses in the European style were pointed out to us as belonging +to Turkish gentlemen, high in office and in the receipt of large +incomes. + +We had ordered dinner at seven o'clock, for the purpose of taking +advantage of the cool part of the day to walk about. We confined our +peregrinations to the Frank quarter and its immediate neighbourhood, +and were amused by the singular figures of other European pedestrians +whom we met with, but whose peculiar country it was difficult to +discover by their dress. Several gentlemen made their appearance on +horseback, but we did not see any females of the superior class. Two +English carriages, filled with Turkish grandees, dashed along with +the recklessness which usually distinguishes native driving; and other +magnates of the land, mounted upon splendid chargers, came forth in +all the pride of Oriental pomp. Having sufficiently fatigued ourselves +with walking ancle-deep in dust and sand, we returned to our hotel, +where we found an excellent dinner, which, among other good things, +comprehended a dish of Beccaficos. + +As I had not intended to reach Alexandria so soon, neither Miss E. +nor myself had given notice of our approach; consequently, there was +nothing in readiness. We had, notwithstanding, hoped to have found +a boat prepared, a friend in London having promised to mention the +possibility of our being in Egypt with the mails that left Marseilles +on the 21st; but this precaution had been neglected, and the +gentleman, who would have provided us with the best vessel procurable, +was too busy with duties which the arrival of the steamer entailed +upon him to do more than express his regret that he could not devote +his whole attention to our comfort. In this emergency, we applied to +Mr. Waghorn, who, in the expectation that I might wish to remain at +Alexandria, had most kindly prepared an apartment for my reception +at his own house. The aspect of affairs, however, did not admit of +my running any risks, and I therefore determined to proceed to Suez +without delay. Under these circumstances, he did the best that the +nature of the case permitted; assured me that I should have his own +boat, which, though small, was perfectly clean, when we got to the +Nile, and provided me with all that I required for the passage. Mrs. +Waghorn also recommended a servant, whose appearance we liked, and +whom we instantly engaged for the trip to Suez. + +I had brought letters to the consul-general, and to several residents +in Alexandria, who immediately paid me visits at our hotel. Colonel +Campbell was most particularly kind and attentive, offering one of the +government janissaries as an escort to Cairo; an offer which we most +readily accepted, and which proved of infinite service to us. We had +no trouble whatever about our baggage; we left it on board, under the +care of the trusty black servant. One of the officers of the ship, who +had distinguished himself during the voyage by his polite attention to +the passengers, had come on shore with us; he sent to the vessel for +our goods and chattels, took our keys and the janissary with him to +the custom-house, and we had speedily the pleasure of seeing them come +upon a camel to the door of the hotel, the fees charged, and the hire +of the animal, being very trifling. There was a large apartment on one +side of the gateway, in which those boxes which we did not desire to +open were deposited, the door being secured by a good lock; in fact, +nothing could be better than the whole arrangements of the hotel. It +was agreed that as little time as possible should be lost in getting +to Suez, and we therefore determined to prosecute our journey as early +in the afternoon of the next day as we could get every thing ready. +Donkeys were to be in waiting at daylight, to convey the party to +Pompey's Pillar, and we retired to rest, overcome by the fatigue and +excitement we had undergone. It was sufficiently warm to render it +pleasant to have some of the windows open; and once or twice in the +night we were awakened by the furious barking of the houseless and +ownerless dogs, which are to be found in great numbers throughout +Egypt. In the day-time the prevailing sound at Alexandria is the +braying of donkeys, diversified by the grunts and moans of the almost +equally numerous camels. + +Engravings have made every inquiring person well acquainted with the +celebrated monument which goes by the name of "Pompey's Pillar," and +the feelings with which we gazed upon it are much more easily imagined +than described. It has the advantage of standing upon a rather +considerable elevation, a ridge of sand, and below it are strewed vast +numbers of more humble memorials of the dead. The Turkish and the Arab +burial-grounds spread themselves at the feet of the Pillar: each +grave is distinguished by a mound of earth and a stone. The piety of +surviving relatives has, in some places, forced the stubborn sand +to yield proofs of their affectionate remembrance of the deceased; +occasionally, we see some single green plant struggling to shadow +the last resting-place of one who slept below; and if any thing were +wanting to add to the melancholy of the scene, it would have been the +stunted and withering leaves thus mournfully enshrouding the silent +dead. There is something so unnatural in the conjunction of a scanty +vegetation with a soil cursed with hopeless aridity, that the gardens +and few green spots, occurring in the neighbourhood of Alexandria, +detract from, instead of embellishing, the scene. Though pleasant +and beautiful as retreats to those who can command an entrance, these +circumscribed patches of verdure offend rather than please the eye, +when viewed from a distance. + +The antiquities of Egypt have been too deeply studied by the erudite +of all Christian countries, for an unlearned traveller to entertain +a hope of being able to throw any additional light upon them. Modern +tourists must, therefore, be content with the feelings which they +excite, and to look, to the present state of things for subjects of +any promise of interest to the readers of their journals. + +After breakfast, we received a visit from the Egyptian gentleman who +had been our fellow-passenger. He brought with him a friend, who, like +himself, had been educated in England, and who had obtained a good +appointment, together with the rank of a field officer, from the +Pasha. The manners of the gentleman were good; modest, but not shy. +He spoke excellent English, and conversed very happily upon all +the subjects broached. Our friend was still in doubt and anxiety +respecting his own destination. Mehemet Ali had left Alexandria for +one of his country residences, on the plea of requiring change of air; +but, in reality, it was said, to avoid the remonstrances of those who +advocated a policy foreign to his wishes. The new arrival could not +present himself to the minister until he should be equipped in an +Egyptian dress. The friend who accompanied him gave us the pleasing +intelligence, that a large handsome boat, with ladies' cabin detached, +and capable of carrying forty passengers, had been built by the +merchants of Alexandria, and when completed--and it only wanted +painting and fitting up--would convey travellers up the canal to +Atfee, a distance which, towed by horses, it would perform in twelve +hours. Small iron steamers were expected from England, to ply upon the +Nile, and with these accommodations, nothing would be more easy and +pleasant than a journey which sometimes takes many days to accomplish, +and which is frequently attended with inconvenience and difficulty. + +We found that Mrs. Waghorn had provided Miss E. and myself with beds, +consisting each of a good mattress stuffed with cotton, a pillow of +the same, and a quilted coverlet, also stuffed with cotton. She lent +us a very handsome canteen; for the party being obliged to separate, +in consequence of the small accommodation afforded in the boats, we +could not avail ourselves of that provided by the other ladies with +whom we were to travel, until we should all meet again upon the +desert. As there may be a danger of not meeting with a canteen, +exactly suited to the wants of the traveller, for sale at Alexandria, +it is advisable to procure one previously to leaving Europe; those +fitted up with tin saucepans are necessary, for it is not easy +to carry cooking apparatus in any other form. We did not encumber +ourselves with either chair or table, but would afterwards have +been glad of a couple of camp-stools. Our supplies consisted of tea, +coffee, wine, wax-candles (employing a good glass lanthorn for a +candlestick), fowls, bread, fruit, milk, eggs, and butter; a pair of +fowls and a piece of beef being ready-roasted for the first meal. We +also carried with us some bottles of filtered water. The baggage of +the party was conveyed upon three camels and a donkey, and we formed a +curious-looking cavalcade as we left the hotel. + +In the first place, the native Indian servant bestrode a donkey, +carrying at the same time our beautiful baby in his arms, who wore a +pink silk bonnet, and had a parasol over her head. All the assistance +he required from others was to urge on his beast, and by the +application of sundry whacks and thumps, he soon got a-head. The +ladies, in coloured muslin dresses, and black silk shawls, rode in +a cluster, attended by the janissary, and two Arab servants also on +donkey-back; a gentleman, who volunteered his escort, and the owners +of the donkeys, who walked by our sides. As I had never rode any +animal, excepting an elephant, until I landed at Alexandria, I did not +feel perfectly at home on the back of a donkey, and therefore desired +Mohammed, our new servant, to give directions to my attendant to +take especial care of me. These injunctions he obeyed to the letter, +keeping close at my side, and at every rough piece of road putting +one hand on the donkey and the other in front of my waist. I could +not help shrinking from such close contact with a class of persons not +remarkable for cleanliness, either of garment or of skin; but the poor +fellow meant well, and as I had really some occasion for his services, +and his appearance was respectable, I thought it no time to be +fastidious, and could not help laughing at the ridiculous figure I +made. + +We passed some fine buildings and baths; the latter very tempting in +their external appearance, and, according to general repute, excellent +of their kind. When we came to the gate of the wall of Alexandria, we +encountered a funeral procession returning from the cemetery close to +Pompey's Pillar. They were a large party, accompanied by many women, +who, notwithstanding their grief, stopped to gratify their curiosity, +by a minute inspection of our strange persons, and still stranger +garb. We were all huddled together in the gateway, which, the walls +being thick, took a few minutes to pass through, and thus had an +opportunity of a very close examination of each other; the veils of +the women, however, prevented us from scanning their countenances very +distinctly; and as we passed on, we encountered a herd of buffaloes, +animals quite new to Miss E., who had never seen one even as a +zoological specimen. We passed the base of Pompey's Pillar, and +through the burying-grounds; and in another quarter of an hour came +to the banks of the canal, and got on board the boat, which had been +engaged to take us to Atfee. + +In the whole course of my travels, I had never seen any thing so +forlorn and uncomfortable as this boat. The accommodation destined for +us consisted of two cabins, or rather cribs, opening into each other, +and so low in the roof as not to permit a full-grown person to stand +upright in either. Some attempt had been formerly made at painting and +carving, but dirt was now the predominant feature, while the holes and +crannies on every side promised free egress to the vermin, apparently +long tenants of the place. Although certain of remaining the night +upon the canal, we would not suffer our beds to be unpacked; but, +seating ourselves upon our boxes, took up a position near the door, in +order to see as much as possible of the prospect. + +The banks of the canal are very luxuriant; but, lying low, are +infested with insects of various kinds; musquitoes came on board +in clouds, and the flies were, if possible, more tormenting; it is, +therefore, very desirable to get out of this channel as speedily as +possible. We saw the vessel, a fine, large, handsome boat, which +had been mentioned to us as building for the purpose of conveying +passengers to Atfee; consequently, should the political questions now +agitating be amicably settled, and Egypt still continue to be a +high road for travellers to India, the inconveniences of which I now +complain will soon cease to exist. + +We passed some handsome houses, built after the European fashion, one +of which we were told belonged to the Pasha's daughter, the wife of +the dufturdar; it was surrounded by gardens, but had nothing very +imposing in its appearance. We came also upon an encampment of the +Pasha's troops, which consisted of numerous small round tents, huddled +together, without the order displayed by an European army. The men +themselves, though report speaks well of their discipline, had not the +soldierlike look which I had seen and admired in the native troops +of India. The impossibility of keeping their white garments clean, in +such a country as Egypt, is very disadvantageous to their appearance, +and it is unfortunate that something better adapted to withstand +the effects of dust should not have been chosen. The janissary who +accompanied us, and who was clothed in red, had a much more military +air. He was a fine-looking fellow, tall, and well-made; and his dress, +which was very becoming, was formed of fine materials. Our servant +Mohammed had also a pleasing countenance, full of vivacity and good +humour, which we found the general characteristics of the people of +Egypt, especially those immediately above the lower class, and who +enjoyed any degree of comfort. + +There are several varieties of costume worn in Egypt, some consisting +of long gowns or vests worn over the long trowser. The military dress, +which was that worn by the janissary and our servant, is both graceful +and becoming. It is rather difficult to describe the nether garment, +which is wide to the knee, and very full and flowing behind; added to +this, the janissary wore a light pantaloon, descending to the ancle; +but Mohammed, excepting when he encased them in European stockings, +had his legs bare: the waistcoat and jacket fit tight to the shape, +and are of a tasteful cut, and together with a sash and the crimson +cap with a dark blue tassel, almost universal, form a picturesque and +handsome dress. That worn by our servant was made of fine blue +stuff, embroidered, or rather braided, at the edges; and this kind +of ornament is so general, that even some of the poorest fellahs, who +possess but one coarse canvas shirt, will have that garnished with +braiding in some scroll-pattern. + +There was not much to be seen on the banks of the Mahmoudie: here and +there, a priest at his devotions at the water-side, or a few miserable +cottages, diversified the scene. We encountered, however, numerous +boats; and so great was the carelessness of the navigators, that we +had considerable difficulty in preventing a collision, which, but for +the good look-out kept by the janissary, must have happened more +than once. Whenever the breeze permitted, we hoisted a sail; at other +times, the boatmen dragged the boat along; and in this manner we +continued our voyage all night. We regretted much the absence of +moonlight, since, the moment the day closed, all our amusement was at +an end. Cock-roaches, as large as the top of a wine-glass, made +their appearance; we heard the rats squeaking around, and found the +musquitoes more desperate in their attacks than ever. The flies with +one accord went to sleep, settling in such immense numbers on the +ceiling immediately over my head, that I felt tempted to look for a +lucifer-match, and put them all to death. The expectation, however, +of leaving the boat early the next morning, deterred me from this +wholesale slaughter; but I had no mercy on the musquitoes, as, +attracted by the light, they settled on the glasses of the lanthorn. + +It was a long and dismal night, the only accident that occurred +being a concussion, which sent Miss E. and myself flying from our +portmanteaus. We had run foul of another boat, or rather all the +shouting of the Arab lungs on board our vessel had failed to arouse +the sleepers in the craft coming down. At length, the day dawned, +and we tried, by copious ablution and a change of dress, to refresh +ourselves after our sleepless night. + +Finding that we wanted milk for breakfast, we put a little boy, one of +the crew, on shore, in order to procure some at a village; meanwhile, +a breeze sprung up, and we went on at so quick a rate, that we thought +we must have left him behind. Presently, however, we saw the poor +fellow running as fast as possible, but still careful of his pannikin; +and after a time we got him on board. In accomplishing this, the boy +was completely ducked; but whether he was otherwise hurt, or +this catastrophe occurring when out of breath or fatigued with +over-exertion, I do not know; but he began to cry in a more piteous +manner than could be justified by the cause alleged, namely, the +wetting of his only garment, an old piece of sacking. I directed +Mohammed to reward his services with a piastre, a small silver coin +of the value of 2-1/2d.; and never, perhaps, did so trifling a sum +of money produce so great an effect. In one moment, the cries +were hushed, the tears dried, and in the contemplation of his +newly-acquired riches, he lost the recollection of all his troubles. + +It was nearly twelve o'clock in the day before we reached Atfee; and +with all my previous experience of the wretched places inhabited by +human beings, I was surprised by the desolation of the village at +the head of the canal. The houses, if such they might be called, were +huddled upon the side of a cliff; their mud walls, covered on the top +with a few reeds or a little straw, looking like the cliff itself. A +few irregular holes served for doors and windows; but more uncouth, +miserable hovels could not have been seen amongst the wildest savages. +Some of these places I perceived had a small court-yard attached, the +hut being at the end, and only distinguishable by a poor attempt at a +roof, the greater part of which had fallen in. + +We were here obliged to leave our boat; landing on the opposite side +to this village, and walking a short distance, we found ourselves +upon the banks of the Nile. The place was in great confusion, in +consequence of the actual presence of the Pasha, who, for himself +and suite, we were told, had engaged every boat excepting the one +belonging to Mr. Waghorn, in which the mails, entrusted to him, had +been put. As it was impossible that four ladies, for our friends had +now joined us, with their European female servant and the baby, could +be accommodated in this small vessel, we despatched our janissary, +with a letter in the Turkish language to the governor of Atfee, with +which we had been provided at Alexandria, and we were immediately +politely informed that the best boat attainable should be at our +disposal. + +The Pasha had taken up his quarters at a very mean-looking house, and +he soon afterwards made his appearance in front of it. Those who +had not become acquainted with his person by portraits, or other +descriptions, were disappointed at seeing a common-looking man, short +in stature, and very plainly clad, having formed a very different idea +of the sovereign of Egypt. Not having any proper introductions, and +knowing that the Pasha makes a great favour of granting an audience to +European ladies, we made no attempt to address him; thus sacrificing +our curiosity to our sense of decorum. There was of course a great +crowd round the Pasha, and we embarked for the purpose of surveying it +to greater advantage. + +Our boat was moored in front of a narrow strip of ground between the +river and a large dilapidated mansion, having, however, glass windows +in it, which bore the ostentatious title of _Hotel du Mahmoudie._ +This circumscribed space was crowded with camels and their drivers; +great men and their retainers passing to and fro; market people +endeavouring to sell their various commodities, together with a +multitudinous collection of men, dogs, and donkeys. I observed that +all the people surveyed the baby as she was carried through them, in +her native servant's arms, with peculiar benignity. She was certainly +a beautiful specimen of an English infant, and in her pretty white +frock, lace cap, and drawn pink silk bonnet, would have attracted +attention anywhere; such an apparition the people now assembled +at Atfee had probably never seen before, and they were evidently +delighted to look at her. She was equally pleased, crowing and +spreading out her little arms to all who approached her. + +The smallness of the boat rendered it necessary that I should open +one of my portmanteaus, and take out a supply of clothes before it was +sent away; while thus occupied, I found myself overlooked by two or +three respectably-clad women, who were in a boat, with several men, +alongside. I did not, of course, understand what they said, but by +their gestures guessed that they were asking for some of the strange +things which they saw. I had nothing that I could well spare, or that +I thought would be useful to them, excepting a paper of needles, which +I put into one of their hands, through the window of the cabin. The +envelope being flourished over with gold, they at first thought that +there was nothing more to be seen, but being directed by signs to +open it, they were in ecstasy at the sight of the needles, which they +proceeded forthwith to divide. + +We now pushed off, and found that, in the narrow limits to which we +were confined, we must only retain our carpet-bags and dressing-cases. +The small cabin which occupies the stern was surrounded on three sides +with lockers, which formed seats, but which were too narrow to hold +our beds; moveable planks, of different dimensions, to suit the shape +of the boat, fitted in, making the whole flush when requisite, and +forming a space amply wide enough for our mattresses, but in which +we could not stand upright. To our great joy, we found the whole +extremely clean, and in perfect repair, so that we could easily submit +to the minor evils that presented themselves. + +We had found Mohammed very active, attentive, and ready in the +departments in which we had hitherto employed him, but we were +now about to put his culinary abilities to the test. He spoke very +tolerable English, but surprised us a little by inquiring whether we +should like an Irish stew for dinner. A fowl was killed and picked in +a trice, and Mohammed had all his own way, excepting with regard to +the onions, which were, in his opinion, woefully restricted. A fowl +stewed with butter and potatoes, and garnished with boiled eggs, is +no bad thing, especially when followed by a dessert of fresh dates, +grapes, and pomegranates. A clerk of Mr. Waghorn's, an European, who +had the charge of the mails, went up in the boat with us; but as we +could not possibly afford him any accommodation in our cabin, his +situation at the prow must have been very uncomfortable. He was +attended by a servant; there were ten or twelve boatmen, which, +together with Mohammed and the janissary, completely crowded the deck, +so that it was impossible for them all to lie down at full length. + +I have not said a word about the far-famed river, which I had so long +and so anxiously desired to see; the late inundations had filled it +to the brim, consequently it could not have been viewed at a more +favourable period; but I was dreadfully disappointed. In a flat +country, like Lower Egypt, I had not expected any thing beyond +luxuriance of vegetation; but my imagination had been excited by ideas +of groves of palms. I found the date trees so thinly scattered, as to +be quite insignificant as a feature in the scene, and except when we +came to a village, there were no other. + +The wind being strong, we got on at first at a rapid rate, and as we +carried a press of sail, the boat lay over completely, as to put the +gunwale (as I believe it is called) in the water. We looked eagerly +out, pleased when we saw some illustration of old customs with which +the Bible had made us acquainted, or when the janissary, who was +an intelligent person, pointed to a Bedouin on the banks. Miss E. +flattered herself that she had caught sight of a crocodile, and as she +described the huge jaws of some creature gaping out of the water, +I thought that she was right, and envied her good fortune: however, +afterwards, being assured that crocodiles never make their appearance +below Cairo, I was convinced that, unaccustomed to see animals +belonging to the Bovine group in a foreign element, she had taken +the head of a buffalo emerging from the river, for one of the classic +monsters of the flood. When weary of looking out, without seeing any +thing but sky and water, and a few palm trees, I amused myself with +reading Wordsworth, and thus the day passed away. + +When evening came, we seated ourselves in front of the cabin, outside, +to enjoy the sunset, and after our loss of rest on the preceding +night, slept very comfortably. The next morning at noon, we had +accomplished half the distance to Cairo, having some time passed every +boat we saw upon the river. Arriving at a village, Mr. Waghorn's agent +determined upon going on shore, and carrying the mails on the backs of +donkeys, in order to ensure their arrival at Suez time enough to +meet the steamer. He had been assured that we had passed the boat +containing the Government mails in the night, but had not been able to +ascertain the fact himself. I think it necessary to mention this, as +a proof of the indefatigable endeavours made by Mr. Waghorn to ensure +the speediest method of transit. + +As the people had worked very hard, we directed Mohammed to purchase +some meat for them in the bazaar, in order that they might indulge in +a good meal; we also took the opportunity of purchasing a supply of +eggs, fowls, and fruit, lest we should fall short before we reached +Cairo. The fowls were so small, that, having our appetites sharpened +by the fresh air of the river, we could easily manage one between us +for breakfast, and another at dinner. We did not make trial of the +unfiltered waters of the Nile, not drinking it until it had deposited +its mud. Though previously informed that no beverage could be +more delightful than that afforded by this queen of rivers in its +unsophisticated state, I did not feel at all tempted to indulge; but +am quite ready to do justice to its excellence when purified from the +grosser element. + +We were much pleased with the alacrity and good humour of our boatmen, +and the untiring manner in which they performed their laborious +duties. When a favouring breeze allowed them to rest, they seldom +indulged in sleep, but, sitting round in a ring upon the narrow deck, +either told stories, or were amused by the dancing of one of the +group, who, without changing his place, contrived to shift his feet +very vigorously to the music of his own voice, and that of two sticks +struck together to keep the time. They frequently used their oars in +parts of the river where they could not find a towing-path, and when +rowing, invariably accompanied their labours with a song, which, +though rude, was not unpleasant. The breeze, which had hitherto +favoured us, dying away, the poor fellows were obliged to work +harder than ever, dragging the boat up against the stream: upon these +occasions, however, we enjoyed a very agreeable degree of quietude, +and were, moreover, enabled to take a more accurate survey of the +river's banks. Living objects were not numerous, excepting in the +immediate vicinity of the villages. I was delighted when I caught +sight of an ibis, but was surprised at the comparatively small +number of birds; having been accustomed to the immense flocks which +congregate on the banks of Indian rivers. + +Our arrival at a village alone relieved the monotony of the landscape. +Some of these places were prettily situated under groves of dates +and wild fig trees, and they occasionally boasted houses of a decent +description; the majority were, however, most wretched, and we were +often surprized to see persons respectably dressed, and mounted upon +good-looking donkeys, emerge from streets and lanes leading to the +most squalid and poverty-stricken dwellings imaginable. The arrival of +a boat caused all the beggars to hasten down to the river-side; +these chiefly consisted of very old or blind persons. We had provided +ourselves with paras, a small copper coin, for the purpose of giving +alms to the miserable beings who solicited our charity, and the poor +creatures always went away well satisfied with the trifling gift +bestowed upon them. + +Every morning, the janissary and the Arab captain of the boat came to +the door of the cabin to pay their respects; with the latter we could +not hold much communication, as he did not speak a word of English; we +were, nevertheless, excellent friends. He was very good-humoured, +and we were always laughing, so that a bond of union was established +between us. He had once or twice come into such close contact with +some of our crockery-ware, as to put me in a fright, and the comic +look, with which he showed that he was aware of the mischief he had +nearly done, amused me excessively. He was evidently a wag, and from +the moment in which he discovered the congeniality of our feelings, +when any droll incident occurred, he was sure to look at us and laugh. + +The janissary spoke very tolerable English, and after sunset, when we +seated ourselves outside the cabin-door, he came forward and entered +into conversation. He told us that a quarrel having taken place +between the boatmen of a small vessel and the people of a village, the +former came on board in great numbers in the night, and murdered six +of the boatmen; and that on the affair being represented to the Pasha, +he sent three hundred soldiers to the village, and razed it to the +ground. He said that he had been in the service of several English +gentlemen, and had once an opportunity of going to England with a +captain in the navy, but that his mother was alive at that time, and +when he mentioned his wishes to her, she cried, and therefore he +could not go. The captain had told him that he would always repent not +having taken his offer; but though he wished to see England, he was +glad he had not grieved his mother. He had been at Malta, but had +taken a dislike to the Maltese, in consequence of a wrong he had +received, as a stranger, upon his landing. + +Amongst the noblemen and gentlemen whom he had served, he mentioned +the Marquess of Waterford. We asked him what sort of a person he was, +and he immediately replied, "A young devil." Mohammed, who had been +in various services with English travellers, expressed a great desire +to go to England; he said, that if he could once get there, he would +"never return to this dirty country." Both he and the janissary +apparently had formed magnificent ideas of the wealth of Great +Britain, from the lavish manner in which the English are accustomed to +part with their money while travelling. + +We inquired of Mohammed concerning the magician, whose exploits Mr. +Lane and other authors have recorded. At first, he did not understand +what we meant; but, upon further explanation, told us that he thought +the whole an imposture. He said, that when a boy, about the age of the +Arab captain's son, who was on board, he was in the service of a lady +who wished to witness the exhibition, and who selected him as the +medium of communication, because she said that she knew he would +tell her the truth. The ceremonies, therefore, commenced; but though +anxiously looking into the magic mirror, he declared that he saw +nothing: afterwards, he continued, "A boy was called out of the +bazaar, who saw all that the man told him." But while Mohammed +expressed his entire disbelief in the power of this celebrated person, +he was not devoid of the superstition of his creed and country, for +he told us that he knew of another who really did wonderful things. He +then asked us what we had called the Mughreebee whom we had described +to him: we replied, a magician; and he and the janissary repeated +the word over many times, in order to make themselves thoroughly +acquainted with it. In all cases, they were delighted with the +acquisition of a new word, and were very thankful to me when I +corrected their pronunciation. Thus, when the janissary showed me what +he called _kundergo_, growing in the fields, and explained that it +made a blue dye, and I told him that we called it _indigo_, he never +rested until he had learned the word, which he repeated to Mohammed +and Mohammed to him. I never met with two more intelligent men in +their rank of life, or persons who would do greater credit to their +teachers; and brief as has been my intercourse with the Egyptians, I +feel persuaded, that a good method of imparting knowledge is all that +is wanting to raise them in the scale of nations. + +During our progress up the river, I had been schooling myself, +and endeavouring to keep down my expectations, lest I should be +disappointed at the sight of the Pyramids. We were told that we should +see them at the distance of five-and-thirty miles; and when informed +that they were in view, my heart beat audibly as I threw open the +cabin door, and beheld them gleaming in the sun, pure and bright +as the silvery clouds above them. Far from being disappointed, the +vastness of their dimensions struck me at once, as they rose in +lonely majesty on the bare plain, with nothing to detract from their +grandeur, or to afford, by its littleness, a point of comparison. +We were never tired of gazing upon these noble monuments of an age +shrouded in impenetrable mystery. They were afterwards seen at less +advantage, in consequence of the intervention of some rising ground; +but from all points they created the strongest degree of interest. + +We had a magnificent thunder-storm just as it was growing dark, and +the red lightning lit up the pyramids, which came out, as it were, +from the black masses of clouds behind them, while the broad waters +of the Nile assumed a dark and troubled aspect. The scene was sublime, +but of short duration; for the tempest speedily rolled off down the +river; when, accompanied by a squall and heavy rain, it caught several +boats, which were obliged to put into the shore. We did not experience +the slightest inconvenience; and though the latter part of the voyage +had been protracted from want of wind, arrived at the port of Boulak +at half-past nine on the second evening of our embarkation. + + + + +CHAPTER V. + + * * * * * + +CAIRO. + + * * * * * + + Arrival at Boulak--Description of the place--Moolid, or Religious + Fair--Surprise of the People--The Hotel at Cairo--Description of + the City--The Citadel--View from thence--The City--The + Shops--The Streets--The interior of the Pasha's + Palace--Pictures--Furniture--Military Band--Affray between a Man and + Woman--Indifference of the Police to Street Broils--Natives beaten + by Englishmen--Visit to an English Antiquary--By-ways of + the City--Interior of the Houses--Nubian + Slave-market--Gypsies--Preparations for Departure to Suez--Mode + of driving in the Streets of Cairo--Leave the City--The Changes in + travelling in Egypt--Attractions of Cairo. + + +It was half-past nine o'clock, on the evening of the 4th of October, +1839, that we arrived at the port of Boulak. We expected to find some +person in waiting to give us the pass-word, and thus enable us to +get into Cairo, the gates of the city being closed at nine o'clock. +Depending upon the attendance of the hotel-keeper at Cairo, who had +been apprised of our approach, we had not put the janissary on shore, +as we ought to have done, at the British Consul's country-house, who +would have furnished us with a talisman to pass the gates. We sent +Mohammed and the janissary on shore, to see what could be done. +Including the voyage up the canal, Miss E. and myself had passed (we +could not say slept) three nights on board a boat, the first without +an attempt at repose, the two latter lying down in our dressing-gowns +upon thin mattresses, stretched upon hard boards; we, therefore, could +not very easily relinquish the endeavour to procure a bed during +the time which would intervene between the period (an hour before +day-light) in which the gates of the city would be open. + +I had a letter to the British Consul, which I gave Mohammed, telling +him to try the effect of bribery upon the guardians of the city. +During his absence, the Arab captain, feeling that we were left +under his protection, came and seated himself beside us, outside the +cabin-door. We conversed together without understanding each other's +language; he had nothing to offer us except snuff, of which we each +took a pinch, giving him in return, as he refused wine, a pomegranate, +to which I added a five-franc piece from the remains of my French +money. If any thing had been wanting to establish a good understanding +between us, this would have accomplished it. The rais, or captain, +took my hand in his, and pressed his own to his lips, in token of +gratitude; and when upon the return of Mohammed he perceived that I +was rather nervous at the idea of crossing the plank from the boat to +the shore, he plunged at once into the water to assist me over it. +The janissary brought word that there was a moolid, or religious fair, +held at the opposite end of the city, and that if we would make a +circuit of three miles round the walls, we might enter Cairo that +night, as the gate was left open for the convenience of the people +in the neighbourhood. Mohammed had aroused a donkey-man of his +acquaintance, who was in attendance, with a youth his son, and two +donkeys. To the boy was entrusted the care of the lanthorn, without +which no person is allowed to traverse the streets after nightfall, +and mounting, we set forward. + +The streets of Boulak are narrow, but the houses appear to be lofty +and substantially built. We were challenged by the soldiers at the +gates, but allowed to pass without farther inquiry. The ride round +the walls at night was dreary enough, over broken ground, occupied +by bandogs barking at us as we passed. We met occasionally groups of +people coming from the fair, who gave us the welcome intelligence that +the gates were still open, and, pushing on, we came at length to the +entrance, an archway of some magnitude. Upon turning an angle of this +wall, we suddenly emerged upon a very singular scene. The tomb of +the saint, in whose honour the moolid was held, was surrounded by +devotees, engaged in the performance of some religious rite. Around, +and in front, throughout the neighbouring streets, gleamed a strong +illumination, produced by an assemblage of lamps and lanthorns +of various kinds. Some of the shops boasted handsome cut-glass +chandeliers, or Argand lamps, evidently of European manufacture; +others were content with a circular frame, perforated with holes, +in which all sorts of glass vessels, wine-glasses, tumblers, +mustard-pots, &c., were placed, filled with oil, and having several +wicks. + +The articles displayed for sale at the fair were, as far as we could +judge from the hasty glances we cast as we passed along, good of +their kind, and of some value; the confectioners' shops made a gay +appearance with their variously-coloured sweetmeats, piled up in +tempting heaps, and we saw enough of embroidery and gold to form a +very favourable idea of the taste and splendour of the native dress. + +We were, of course, objects of great surprise and curiosity; the +sudden appearance of two European ladies, the only women present, at +eleven o'clock at night, riding on donkeys through the fair, could not +fail to create a sensation. Our boy with the lanthorn walked first, +followed by the janissary, who, flourishing his silver stick, made +room for us through the crowd. Had we not been accompanied by this +respectable official, we should scarcely have dared to venture in such +a place, and at such a period. Mohammed and the donkey-man attended +at the side of Miss E. and myself, and though some of the people could +not help laughing at the oddity of our appearance, we met with no +sort of insult or hinderance, but made our way through without the +slightest difficulty, much more easily, in fact, than two Arabs in +their native costume, even if attended by a policeman, would have +traversed a fair in England. + +The scene was altogether very singular, and we thought ourselves +fortunate in having had an opportunity of witnessing a native fair +under such novel circumstances. We could scarcely believe that we were +in a Mohammedan city, noted for its intolerance, and could not help +feeling grateful to the reigning power which had produced so striking +a change in the manners and conduct of the people. Upon leaving the +fair, we turned into dark streets, dimly illumined by the light of the +lanthorn we carried; occasionally, but very seldom, we met some +grave personage, preceded also by a lanthorn, who looked with great +astonishment at our party as we passed. At length we came to the door +of our hotel, and having knocked loudly, we were admitted into the +court-yard, when, dismounting, we proceeded up a flight of stone steps +to a verandah, which led into some very good-sized apartments. The +principal one, a large dining-room, was furnished at the upper end +in the Egyptian fashion, with divans all round; it was, however, also +well supplied with European chairs and tables, and in a few minutes +cold turkey and ham, and other good things, appeared upon the board. + +Being the first arrivals from the steamer, we had to answer numerous +questions before we could retire to bed. Upon asking to be conducted +to our chamber, we were shown up another flight of stone stairs, +leading to a second and much larger verandah, which was screened off +in departments serving as ante-chambers to the bed-rooms. There was +sufficient space on the terraces of this floor, for the descent of a +few steps led to another platform, to afford a walk of some extent, +but of this we were not aware until the morning. We found a very +comfortable two-bedded room, supplied with glass windows, and +everything belonging to it in excellent repair, and apparently free +from vermin; most thankfully did we lie down to enjoy the repose which +our late exertions had rendered so needful. + +Our trusty Mohammed had engaged donkeys for us the next day, and +promised to take us to every place worth seeing in the city. We were +strongly tempted to visit the Pyramids, but were deterred by the +danger of losing the steamer at Suez, and by the difficulties of the +undertaking. We were told that the Nile was not sufficiently flooded +to admit of our approach in a boat, and that we should be up to the +donkey's knees in mud if we attempted to go upon the backs of those +animals. We, therefore, reluctantly relinquished the idea, and +contented ourselves with what we could see of Cairo. + +Our first visit was directed to the Citadel, a place which, I do not +scruple to say, was to me quite as interesting as any of the monuments +of ancient art that Egypt contains. The remains of ages long past, and +whose history is involved in unfathomable obscurity, excite our wonder +and admiration, and fill us with an almost painful curiosity to draw +aside the veil which time has thrown around them, and to learn secrets +that all the learning of man has hitherto been unable to unfold. +The citadel of Cairo, on the contrary, has been the theatre of +comparatively recent events; it is filled with recollections of the +hero whose exploits, narrated by the most eloquent pens, have charmed +us in our childhood, and still continue to excite interest in our +breasts--the Sultan Saladin. Here are the remains of a palace which he +once inhabited, and here is a well which bears his name. Who could sit +under the broken pillars of that roofless palace, or drink the water +from the deep recesses of that well, without allowing their thoughts +to wander back to the days of the Crusades, those chivalric times, in +which love, and war, and religion, swayed the hearts and the actions +of men; when all that was honoured and coveted was to be found in a +soldier of the cross, and when half-frantic enthusiasts, pursuing the +vainest of hopes, the recovery of the Holy Land, brought away with +them what they did not go to seek, the arts, and learning, and science +of the East! The janissary, who was with us, pointed out the direction +in which Damietta now stands, and I was instantly filled with a desire +to see Damietta, of which I had heard and read so much. + +The most exciting romance of Oriental history is to be found amid the +deserts that surround Egypt; and even if the most spirit-stirring tale +of all, the _Talisman_, had not been written, the scenes in which our +own lion-hearted Richard figured, and which witnessed the exploits of +the Templars and the knights of St. John of Jerusalem, could not fail +to create the highest degree of pleasurable feeling in minds capable +of enjoying such brilliant reveries of the past. The Citadel of Cairo +is also fraught with the recollections of an event which startled +all Europe within the memory of many of the present generation--the +massacre of the Mamelukes. We were shown the broken cleft in the +wall from which the only one of the devoted men who escaped urged his +gallant horse; it was, indeed, a fearful leap, and we gazed upon, +the spot and thought of the carnage of that dreadful hour with an +involuntary shudder. + +The Citadel of Cairo has less the air of a regular fortification than +any place of arms I ever recollect to have entered; it is, however, +I believe, exceedingly strong by nature, the situation being very +commanding. I regretted that I could not look upon these things with +a professional eye, and that I had no military authority at hand to +refer to. Near to the ruins of Saladin's palace, the Pasha is now +constructing a mosque, which, when finished, will be one of the most +splendid temples of the kind in all the Moslem land. It is to be lined +and faced with marble, very elegantly carved, but it will take three +years to complete it, and should any circumstances occur to delay the +work during the lifetime of the present ruler of Egypt, the chances +seem much in favour of its never being completed at all. Mounting on +the embrasure of one of the guns, I feasted my eyes upon one of the +finest and most interesting views I had ever beheld. The city, with +its minarets, towers, kiosks, and stately palm-trees, lay at my feet, +displaying, by its extent, the solidity, loftiness, and magnificence +of its buildings, its title to the proud name of "Grand Cairo." +Beyond, in one wide flood of silver, flowed the Nile, extending far as +the eye could reach along a plain verdant with its fertilizing waters. +To the left, the tombs of the caliphs spread themselves over a desert +waste, looking, indeed, like a city of the dead. These monuments, +though not equalling in size and grandeur the tombs which we find in +India, are very striking; they are for the most part surmounted by +cupolas, raised upon lofty pillars, with the spaces open between. Upon +one of these buildings we were shown a vessel in the form of a boat, +which upon a certain festival is filled with grain and water, for the +service of the birds. + +The Pyramids, which rise beyond the City of Tombs, are not seen to +advantage from this point, an intervening ridge of sand cutting off +the bases, and presenting the pinnacles only to view; but the whole of +the landscape, under the clear bright atmosphere of an Egyptian sky, +is of so exquisite a nature, that the eye can never tire of it, and +had I been detained as a prisoner in the Pasha's dominions, I might +have become reconciled to my fate, had I been confined in a situation +which commanded this splendid prospect. + +About the middle of the day we again sallied forth, the streets of +Cairo being so narrow that the sun is completely shut out, and shade +thus afforded at noon. The air was not unpleasantly warm, and we +suffered no inconvenience, excepting from the crowd. Mounted upon +donkeys, we pushed our way through a dense throng, thrusting aside +loaded camels, which scarcely allowed us room to pass, and coming +into the closest contact with all sorts of people. The perusal of +Mr. Lane's book had given me a very vivid idea of the interior of the +city, though I was scarcely prepared to mingle thus intimately with +its busy multitude. + +We had some shopping to execute, or rather we had to pay for some +purchases made by Mohammed for us in the morning, and to return that +portion of the goods sent for inspection that we did not intend to +keep. We liked the appearance of the shops, which, in all cases of the +more respectable kind, were well stocked, whole streets being devoted +to the sale of one particular branch of merchandize. A long avenue +was occupied by saddlers and the sellers of horse-furniture; another +displayed nothing but woollen cloths; a third was devoted to weapons +of every description, &c. &c. The wax-chandlers reminded me very much +of those in England, being decorated in a similar manner, while the +display of goods everywhere was much greater than I had ever seen in +Eastern cities, in which for the most part merchandize of the best +description is hidden in warehouses, and not to be found without deep +research. + +The greater number of the streets are covered in with matting in +rather a dilapidated state, and having many holes and crevices for the +admission of air; this gives to the whole a ragged appearance, and we +were told that the Pasha had determined not to allow in future awnings +of these frail and unsightly materials. The Frank quarter, which is +much better contrived, is the model for subsequent erections. This +avenue has a roof of wood sufficiently high to allow of a free +circulation of air, and having apertures, at regular distances near +the top, to admit the light. The streets in this part of Cairo are +wider than usual, and the shops appear to be large and convenient. + +All sorts of European manufactures are to be found here, for the most +part at reasonable prices. The gentlemen who proposed to cross the +desert purchased Leghorn hats of very good quality, and admirably +adapted, from their size, lightness, and durability, for Indian wear. +Wearied, at length, with the confusion and bustle of the streets, +we took again the road to the Citadel, being exceedingly desirous to +feast our eyes with the sunset view. + +After gazing long and earnestly upon a scene which, once beheld, can +never be forgotten, we gladly accepted the offer of Mohammed to +show us into the interior of the Pasha's palace, a large irregular +building, having no great pretensions to architectural beauty, and +mingling rather oddly the European with the Oriental style. Ascending +a broad flight of steps, we passed through a large kind of guard-room +to the state-apartments. These were of rather a singular description, +but handsome and well adapted to the climate. A third portion, +consisting of the front and part of the two sides of each room, was +entirely composed of windows, opening a few feet from the ground, +and having a divan running round, furnished in the usual manner with +pillows at the back. The windows of some of these apartments opened +upon gardens, laid out in the English taste and full of English +flowers; others commanded the finest prospects of the city and the +open space below. Round these rooms, at the top, forming a sort +of cornice, were pictures in compartments or panels, one series +consisting of views of the Pasha's palaces and gardens, another of the +vessels of war which belong to him, and more especially his favourite +steam-boat, of which there are many delineations. There is nothing +that more strongly exhibits the freedom with which Mehemet Ali has +thrown off the prejudices of the Moslem religion, than his permitting, +contrary to its established principles, the representation of objects +natural and artificial, which, both in painting and sculpture, is +strictly forbidden. Much cannot be said for the execution of these +pictures, which seem to have been the work of a native artist; but +they become exceedingly interesting as proofs of the decline of a +religion so completely opposed to the spread of knowledge, and to all +improvement in the moral condition of its followers. + +The furniture in the Pasha's palace, though in a great measure limited +to carpets and cushions, is very handsome. The divans are covered with +rich brocade, figured satin, damask, or cut velvet. The attendants +drew aside, with great pride, the curtains which concealed the +looking-glasses, evidently fancying that we had never beheld mirrors +of such magnitude in our lives. I observed that the chandeliers in +some of the apartments did not match each other, but the whole was +very creditable to the taste and spirit of the owner. Below them was a +handsome apartment entirely lined with marble, and apparently designed +as a retreat for the hot weather, the floor being divided into two +parts--the one ascended by a step, in which the family might repose +upon cushions; the other scooped into basins, with a fountain to play +in the centre: the water either had not as yet been laid on, or the +season did not render it necessary. Near to this apartment was +the Pasha's bed-chamber, a fine room, also lined with marble, and +containing a fire-place, which in the warm weather revolved upon a +pivot, and was concealed in a recess made on purpose in the wall. The +bathing-rooms, close at hand, were of the most beautiful description, +the principal apartment and the antechamber having roofs which might +serve as models for all erections of the kind. These were fretted +in small compartments, light being admitted by a thick piece of +ground-glass in the centre of each, thus securing the utmost privacy, +together with one of the most beautiful methods of lighting possible. + +While we were still sitting in the Pasha's palace, the military band +of the garrison began to play upon the parade-ground immediately +below. Mohammed, who seemed to be quite at home, conducted us to an +apartment which overlooked this space, opened one of the windows, and +requested us to seat ourselves upon the cushions, where we remained +for some time, listening to the well-known French airs played in the +court-yard of the palace of a Turkish prince! The band was not a +very large one, but the performers had been well-taught, and the +wind-instruments produced in such a situation a very animating effect. +They marched up and down the parade-ground, occasionally relieved by +the drums and fifes also playing French music. The performers were +clothed in white, like the men belonging to the ranks, and had the +same soiled appearance, it being impossible to keep white garments +pure in the dust of Egyptian cities. + +The sun was now completely down, and we returned to our hotel, where, +to our great joy, we found our two female friends, who had not been +able to reach Boulak until many hours after our landing. We +had ordered dinner at seven o'clock, in the hope that our +fellow-passengers in the steamer would come up, and according to our +calculations, several dropped in. The possibility of getting to the +Pyramids was again discussed; the greater number of the gentlemen +determined at least to try, but we thought it best to avoid all danger +of missing the _Berenice_, and the ladies, adhering to their original +intention, determined to cross the desert together. We passed a most +agreeable evening, telling over our voyage up the Nile, and upon +retiring to my chamber, I regretted that it would be the last I should +for some time spend in Cairo. + +Nothing can be more quiet than the nights in a city where all the +inhabitants retire after dark to their own homes, the streets being +perambulated by few persons, and those of the soberest description; +but with the sun, a scene of bustle and noise ensues, which +effectually prevents repose. The windows of my apartment looked out +upon a narrow street, in which the ground-floors were, as it is usual, +composed of shops, while several persons, having vegetables or grain +to sell, were seated upon the ground. The hum of human voices, +the grunting of the camels, and the braying of donkeys, kept up an +incessant din, and therefore some minutes elapsed before my attention +was attracted by a wordy war which took place beneath my window. +Hastily arraying myself in my dressing-gown, and looking out, I saw a +man and woman engaged in some vehement discussion, but whether caused +by a dispute or not, I could not at first decide. They both belonged +to the lower class, and the woman was meanly dressed in a blue +garment, with a hood of the same over her head, her face being +concealed by one of those hideous narrow black veils, fastened across +under the eyes, which always reminded me of the proboscis of an +elephant. Her hands were clasped upon the arms of the man just above +the elbow, who held her in the same manner, and several people were +endeavouring to part them, as they struggled much in the same manner +which prevails in a melodrame, when the hero and heroine are about +to be separated by main force. I thought it, therefore, probable that +they were a loving couple, about to be torn asunder by the myrmidons +of the law. Presently, however, I was set right upon this point, for +the man, seizing a kind of whip, which is generally carried in Cairo, +and flogging off his friends, dashed the poor creature on the ground, +and inflicted several severe strokes upon her prostrate body, not one +of the by-standers attempting to prevent him. The woman, screaming +fearfully, jumped up, and seizing him again, as if determined to gain +her point, whatever it might be, poured forth a volley of words, and +again the man threw her upon the ground and beat her most cruelly, the +spectators remaining, as before, quite passive, and allowing him to +wreak his full vengeance upon her. + +Had I been dressed, or could I have made my way readily into the +street, I should have certainly gone down to interpose, for never did +I witness any scene so horrible, or one I so earnestly desired to +put an end to. At length, though the pertinacity of the woman was +astonishing, when exhausted by blows, she lay fainting on the ground, +the man went his way. The spectators, and there were many, who looked +on without any attempt to rescue this poor creature from her savage +assailant, now raised her from the earth. The whole of this time, the +veil she wore was never for a moment displaced, and but for the brutal +nature of the scene, it would have been eminently ridiculous in the +eyes of a stranger. After crying and moaning for some time, in the +arms of her supporters, the woman, whom I now found to be a vender of +vegetables in the street, told her sad tale to all the passers-by +of her acquaintance, with many tears and much gesticulation, but at +length seated herself quietly down by her baskets, though every bone +in her body must have ached from the severe beating she had received. +This appeared to me to be a scene for the interference of the police, +who, however, do not appear to trouble themselves about the protection +of people who may be assaulted in the street. + +I afterwards saw a drunken Englishman, an officer of the Indian +army, I am sorry to say, beat several natives of Cairo, with whom +he happened to come in contact in the crowd, in the most brutal and +unprovoked manner, and yet no notice was taken, and no complaint +made. It was certainly something very unexpected to me to see a Frank +Christian maltreating the Moslem inhabitants of a Moslem city in which +he was a stranger, and I regretted exceedingly that the perpetrator +of acts, which brought disgrace upon his character and country, should +have been an Englishman, or should have escaped punishment. No sooner +have we been permitted to traverse a country in which formerly it was +dangerous to appear openly as a Christian, than we abuse the privilege +thus granted by outrages on its most peaceable inhabitants. I regret +to be obliged to add, that it is but too commonly the habit, of +Englishmen to beat the boat-men, donkey-men, and others of the poorer +class, whom they may engage in their service. They justify this +cowardly practice--cowardly, because the poor creatures can gain no +redress--by declaring that there is no possibility of getting them to +stir excepting by means of the whip; but, in most cases, all that I +witnessed, they were not at the trouble of trying fairer methods: +at once enforcing their commands by blows. The comments made by the +janissary and our own servant upon those who were guilty of such +wanton brutality showed the feeling which it elicited; and when upon +one occasion Miss E. and myself interposed, declaring that we would +not allow any person in our service to be beaten, they told us not to +be alarmed, for that the rais (captain of the boat), who was an Arab, +would not put up with ill-treatment, but had threatened to go on shore +at the next village with all his men. + +An English gentleman, long resident in Cairo, had done me the honour +to call upon me on the day after my arrival, and had invited me to +come to his house, to see some mummies and other curiosities he had +collected. Accompanied by two of my female friends, and escorted by a +gentleman who was well acquainted with the topography of the city, +we set out on foot, traversing blind alleys and dark lanes, and thus +obtaining a better idea of the intricacies of the place than we could +possibly have gained by any other means. Sometimes we passed under +covered ways perfectly dark, which I trod, not without fear of +arousing some noxious animal; then we came to narrow avenues, between +the backs of high stone houses, occasionally emerging into small +quadrangles, having a single tree in one corner. We passed a house +inhabited by one of the superior description of Frank residents, +and we knew that it must be tenanted by a European by the handsome +curtains and other furniture displayed through its open windows. +Turning into a street, for the very narrow lanes led chiefly along +the backs of houses, we looked into the lower apartments, the doors of +which were usually unclosed, and here we saw the men at their +ordinary occupations, and were made acquainted with their domestic +arrangements. At length we arrived at a court, which displayed a door +and a flight of steps at the corner. Upon knocking, we were admitted +by an Egyptian servant, who showed us up stairs into a room, where we +found the master of the house seated upon one of the low stools which +serve as the support of the dinner-trays in Egypt, the only other +furniture that the room contained being a table, and the customary +divan, which extended all round. Coffee was brought in, served in +small China cups; but all the coffee made in Egypt was too like the +Nile mud for me to taste, and warm and fatigued with a walk through +places from which the fresh air was excluded, I felt myself unequal +to make the trial now. + +Our friend's collection of antiquities appeared to be very valuable; +but I had been at the opening of a mummy-case before, and though +interested by the different articles which his researches had brought +to light, was more so in the examination of his house. It was very +oddly arranged, according to the ideas formed in Europe, many of the +rooms looking like lanthorns, in consequence of their having windows +on the stairs and passages, as well as to the street. This was +probably caused by a desire to secure a free circulation of air, but +it at the same time destroyed every idea of privacy, and therefore +looked exceedingly uncomfortable. There were glass-windows to several +of the apartments, but the house exhibited considerable quantities of +that wooden trellice-work, represented in Mr. Lane's book. Nothing, +indeed, can be more accurate than his descriptions; the English +inhabitants of Cairo say that, reading it upon the spot, they cannot +detect a single error; the designs are equally faithful, and those who +study the work carefully may acquire the most correct notion of the +city and its inhabitants. + +The apartments at the top of the house opened, as usual, upon a rather +extensive terrace or court, but the surrounding wall was too high to +admit of any prospect; both here, and in a similar place at our hotel, +persons walking about could neither see their neighbours nor be seen +by them. We, therefore, gained nothing by climbing so high, and I was +disappointed at not obtaining any view of the city. I tried in each +place to make acquaintance with an Egyptian cat, but I found the +animal too shy. I noticed several, which seemed to be domestic pets; +they were fine-looking creatures of the kind, and I fancied larger +than the common English cat, but the difference, if existing at all, +was very slight. I returned home, so much fatigued with my walk, as +to be unable to go out again, especially as we were to start at four +o'clock for the desert. + +Two of the ladies of the party, not having completed their purchases +at the bazaars, went out upon a shopping excursion, and passing near +the Nubian slave-market, were induced to enter. Christians are not +admitted to the place in which Circassian women are sold, and can +only obtain entrance by assuming the Turkish dress and character. My +friends were highly interested in one woman, who sat apart from the +rest, apparently plunged into the deepest melancholy; the others +manifested little sorrow at their condition, which was not, perhaps, +in reality, changed for the worse: all eagerly scrambled for some +pieces of money which the visitors threw amongst them, and the +sight was altogether too painful for Christian ladies to desire to +contemplate long. + +They were much more amused by some gipsies, who were anxious to show +their skill in the occult science. Upon the morning after our arrival, +Miss E., who was always the first upon the alert, accepted the escort +of a gentleman, who conducted her to a neighbouring shop; while making +some purchases, a gipsy came and seated herself opposite, and by way +of showing her skill, remarked that the lady was a stranger to Cairo, +and had a companion, also of her own sex, who pretended to be a +friend, but who would prove treacherous. + +As we had ridden through the fair together on the preceding evening, +it did not require any great effort of art to discover that two Frank +ladies had arrived at Cairo; but in speaking of treachery, the gipsy +evidently wished to pique the curiosity of my friend, and tempt her to +make further inquiry. Much to my regret, she did not take any notice +of the fortune-teller, whose words had been repeated by the gentleman +who had accompanied her, and who was well acquainted with the language +in which they were spoken. I should like to have had a specimen of the +talents of a modern scion of this race, in the country in which the +learned have decided that the tribe, now spread over the greater part +of the world, originated. + +The arrival of the _Berenice_ at Suez had been reported the evening +before, and the mails had been brought to Cairo in the coarse of +the night. All was, therefore, bustle and confusion in our hotel; +gentlemen hourly arriving from the Nile, where they had been delayed +by squalls and contrary winds, or snatching a hasty meal before they +posted off to the Pyramids. Our camels and donkeys had been laden +and despatched to the outskirts of the city, to which we were to be +conveyed in a carriage. + +I had observed in the court-yard of the hotel an English-built +equipage, of the britschka fashion, with a dark-coloured hood, for, +whatever might have been its original tint, it had assumed the +common hue of Egypt; and I found that two spirited horses were to be +harnessed to the vehicle, which was dragged out into the street for +our accommodation. A gentleman volunteered his services as coachman, +promising that he would drive carefully, and we accordingly got in, +a party of four, taking the baby along with us. Although the horses +kicked and plunged a little, I did not fancy that we could be in any +danger, as it was impossible for them to run away with us through +streets so narrow as scarcely to be passable, neither could we have +very easily been upset. I, therefore, hoped to have enjoyed the drive +amazingly, as it promised to afford me a better opportunity than I +had hitherto possessed of seeing Cairo, seated at my ease, instead +of pushing and jostling through the crowd either on foot or upon +a donkey. The gentleman, however, bent upon showing off, would not +listen to our entreaties that the grooms should lead the horses, but +dashed along, regardless of the danger to the foot-passengers, or the +damage that the donkeys might sustain. + +So long as we proceeded slowly, the drive was very agreeable, since +it enabled me to observe the effect produced by our party upon the +spectators. Many sat with the utmost gravity in their shops, scarcely +deigning to cast their eyes upon what must certainly have been a +novel sight; others manifested much more curiosity, and seemed to be +infinitely amused, while heads put out of the upper windows showed +that we attracted some attention. My enjoyment was destined to be very +brief, for in a short time our coachman, heedless of the mischief that +might ensue, drove rapidly forward, upsetting and damaging every thing +that came in his way. In vain did we scream and implore; he declared +that it was the fault of the people, who would not remove themselves +out of danger; but as we had no _avant-courrier_ to clear the road +before us, and our carriage came very suddenly upon many persons, I +do not see how they could have managed to escape. At length, we drove +over an unfortunate donkey, which was pulled down by a piece of iron +sticking from the carriage, and thus becoming entangled in the load he +bore. I fear that the animal was injured, for the poor boy who drove +him cried bitterly, and though we (that is, the ladies of the party) +would gladly have remunerated him for the damage he might have +sustained, neither time nor opportunity was permitted for this act of +justice. On we drove, every moment expecting to be flung out against +the walls, as the carriage turned round the corners of streets placed +at right angles to each other. At length, we succeeded in our wish to +have the grooms at the horses' heads, and without further accident, +though rendered as nervous as possible, passed through the gate of +the city. We drove forward now without any obstacle through the +Necropolis, or City of Tombs, before-mentioned, and I regretted +much that we had not left Cairo at an earlier hour, which would have +permitted us to examine the interiors. + +The desert comes up to the very walls of Cairo, and these tombs rise +from a plain of bare sand. I observed some gardens and cultivated +places stretching out into the wilderness, no intermediate state +occurring between the garden and the arid waste in which vegetation +suddenly ceased. We might have performed the whole journey across the +desert in the carriage which had brought us thus far, but as one of +the ladies was a little nervous, and moreover thought the road too +rough, I readily agreed to choose another mode of conveyance; in fact, +I wished particularly to proceed leisurely to Suez, and in the manner +in which travellers had hitherto been conveyed. + +The mighty changes which are now effecting in Egypt, should nothing +occur to check their progress, will soon render the track to India so +completely beaten, and so deeply worn by wheels, that I felt anxious +to take advantage of the opportunity now offered to traverse the +desert in a more primitive way. I disliked the idea of hurrying +through a scene replete with so many interesting recollections. I had +commenced reading the _Arabian Nights' Entertainment_ at the age of +five years; since which period, I had read them over and over again +at every opportunity, finishing with the last published number of the +translation by Mr. Lane. This study had given me a strong taste for +every thing relating to the East, and Arabia especially. I trust that +I am not less familiar with the writings of the Old and New Testament, +and consequently it may easily be imagined that I should not find +three days in the desert tedious, and that I felt anxious to enjoy to +the uttermost the reveries which it could not fail to suggest. + +In parting with our friend and the carriage, he declared that he +would indemnify himself for the constraint we had placed upon him, by +driving over two or three people at least. Fortunately, his desire +of showing off was displayed too soon; we heard, and rejoiced at +the tidings, that he upset the carriage before he got to the gate of +Cairo. Two or three lives are lost, it is said, whenever the Pasha, +who drives furiously, traverses the city in a European equipage. That +he should not trouble himself about so mean a thing as the life or +limb of a subject, may not be wonderful; but that he should permit +Frank strangers to endanger both, seems unaccountable. + +No Anglo-Indian resident in either of the three presidencies thinks +of driving a wheel-carriage through streets never intended for +such conveyances. In visiting Benares, Patna, or any other of the +celebrated native cities of India, elephants, horses, palanquins, +or some other vehicle adapted for the occasion, are chosen. It, +therefore, appears to be the more extraordinary that English people, +who are certainly living upon sufferance in Egypt, should thus +recklessly expose the inhabitants to danger, to which they are not +subjected by any of their own people under the rank of princes. +Nothing can be more agreeable or safe than a drive across the desert, +and probably the time is speedily approaching in which the rich +inhabitants of Cairo will indulge, as they do at Alexandria, in the +luxury of English carriages, and for this purpose, the streets and +open spaces best adapted for driving will be improved and widened. + +I cannot take leave of Cairo without paying the tribute due to the +manner in which the streets are kept. In passing along the narrow +lanes and avenues before-mentioned, not one of the senses was shocked; +dust, of course, there is every where, but nothing worse to be seen at +least; and the sight and smell were not offended, as at Paris or even +in London, when passing through the by-ways of either. Altogether, if +I may venture to pronounce an opinion, after so short a residence, I +should say that, if our peaceful relations with Egypt should continue +to be kept up, in no place will travellers be better received or +entertained than in Cairo. + + + + +CHAPTER VI. + + * * * * * + +THE DESERT. + + * * * * * + + Equipage for crossing the Desert--Donkey-chairs--Sense of calmness and + tranquillity on entering the Desert--Nothing dismal in its + aspect--The Travellers' Bungalow--Inconvenient construction of these + buildings--Kafila of the Governor of Jiddah and his Lady--Their + Equipage--Bedouins--Impositions practised on Travellers--Desert + Travelling not disagreeable--Report of the sailing of the + Steamer--Frequency of false reports--Ease with which an infant of + the party bore the journey--A wheeled carriage crossing the + Desert--Parties of Passengers from Suez encountered--One of Mr. Hill's + tilted Caravans--Difficulty of procuring water at the Travellers' + Bungalow--A night in the Desert--Magnificent sunrise--First sight + of the Red Sea and the Town of Suez--Miserable appearance of the + latter--Engagement of a Passage to Bombay. + + +We found the equipages in which we were to cross the desert waiting +for us at the City of Tombs. They consisted of donkey-chairs, one +being provided for each of the females of the party, while my +friend Miss E. had also an extra donkey, with a saddle, to ride upon +occasionally. Nothing could be more comfortable than these vehicles; +a common arm-chair was fastened into a sort of wooden tray, which +projected in front about a foot, thereby enabling the passenger to +carry a small basket or other package; the chairs were then slung by +the arms to long bamboos, one upon either side, and these, by means +of ropes or straps placed across, were fastened upon the backs +of donkeys, one in front, the other, behind. Five long and narrow +vehicles of this kind, running across the desert, made a sufficiently +droll and singular appearance, and we did nothing but admire each +other as we went along. The movement was delightfully easy, and the +donkeys, though not travelling at a quick pace, got on very well. Our +cavalcade consisted besides of two stout donkeys, which carried the +beds and carpet-bags of the whole party, thus enabling us to send the +camels a-head: the three men-servants were also mounted upon donkeys, +and there were three or four spare ones, in case any of the others +should knock up upon the road. In this particular it is proper to +say that we were cheated, for had such an accident occurred, the +extra-animals were so weak and inefficient, that they could not have +supplied the places of any of those in use. There were eight or ten +donkey-men, and a boy; the latter generally contrived to ride, but the +others walked by the side of the equipages. + +In first striking into the desert, we all enjoyed a most delightful +feeling of repose; every thing around appeared to be so calm +and tranquil, that, especially after encountering the noises and +multitudes of a large and crowded city, it was soothing to the mind +thus to emerge from the haunts of men and wander through the vast +solitudes that spread their wastes before us. To me there was nothing +dismal in the aspect of the desert, nor was the view so boundless as I +had expected. + +In these wide plains, the fall of a few inches is sufficient to +diversify the prospect; there is always some gentle acclivity to be +surmounted, which cheats the sense with the expectation of finding +a novel scene beyond: the sand-hills in the distance also range +themselves in wild and fantastic forms, many appearing like +promontories jutting out into some noble harbour, to which the +traveller seems to be approaching. Nor were there wanting living +objects to animate the scene; our own little kafila was sufficiently +large and cheerful to banish every idea of dreariness, and we +encountered others much more picturesque. + +Soon after losing sight of the tombs, we came upon a party who +had bivouac'd for the night; the camels, unladen, were, with their +burthens, placed in a circle, and the people busily employed in +preparing their evening meal. Other evidences there were, however, to +show that the toils of the desert were but too frequently fatal to the +wretched beasts of burthen employed in traversing these barren wastes; +the whitened bones of camels and donkeys occurred so frequently, as to +serve to indicate the road. + +Our first stage was the shortest of the whole, and we came to the +rest-house, or travellers' bungalow, just as night closed in, and long +before I entertained any idea that we should have been able to reach +it, travelling as we did at an easy walk. The bungalow was not yet +completed, which we found rather an advantage, since it seems to +be exceedingly questionable whether the buildings erected for the +accommodation of travellers on the track to Suez will be habitable +even for a few hours in the course of another year. The funds of the +Steam-committee have been lamentably mismanaged in this instance. +However, there being no windows, we were enabled to enjoy the fresh +air, and the room we occupied, not having been long whitewashed, was +perfectly clean. + +Nothing can have been worse planned than the construction of these +houses. The only entrance is in front, down a narrow passage, open at +the top, and having apartments on either side, the two in front +being sleeping-rooms for travellers, with a kitchen and other offices +beyond, and at the back of all a stable, which occupies the whole +width of the building. The consequence is, that all the animals, biped +and quadruped, inhabiting the stable, must pass the traveller's +door, who is regaled with the smell proceeding from the said stable, +cook-rooms, &c.; all the insects they collect, and all the feathers +from the fowls slaughtered upon the spot; the plan being, when parties +arrive, to drive the unhappy creatures into the house, kill and pluck +them immediately. + +The persons in care of these bungalows are usually a mongrel sort of +Franks, who have no idea of cleanliness, and are regardless of the +most unsavoury odours. The furniture of the rooms consisted of a deal +table and a moveable divan of wicker-work, while another, formed of +the same solid materials as the house, spread in the Egyptian fashion +along one side. Upon this Miss E. and myself laid our beds; our two +other lady friends, with the infant and female attendant, occupying +the opposite apartment. We concluded the evening with tea and supper, +for which we were amply provided, having cold fowls, cold ham, +hard-boiled eggs, and bread and fruit in abundance. Wrapped up in our +dressing-gowns, we passed a very comfortable night, and in the morning +were able to procure the luxury of warm water for washing with. + +Having discovered that the people of the hotel at Cairo had forgotten +to put up some of the articles which we had ordered, and being afraid +that our supplies might fail, we had sent Mohammed back for them. He +did not rejoin us until eight o'clock the following morning, just +as we had begun to grow uneasy about him; it appeared that, although +apparently well acquainted with the desert, having crossed it many +times, he had missed the track, and lost his way, and after wandering +about all night, was glad to meet with a man, whom he engaged as a +guide. The poor fellow was much exhausted, but had not omitted to +bring us a bottle of fresh milk for our breakfast. We desired him to +get some tea for himself, and he soon recovered; his spirits never +forsaking him. + +In consequence of these delays, it was rather late, past nine o'clock, +before we set forward. I had provided myself with a pair of crape +spectacles and a double veil, but I speedily discarded both; the crape +fretted my eye-lashes, and would have produced a greater degree of +irritation than the sand. A much better kind are those of wire, which +tie round the head with a ribbon, and take in the whole eye. Though +the sun was rather warm, its heat was tempered by a fresh cold air, +which blew across the desert, though not strongly enough to lift the +sand; we, therefore, travelled with much less inconvenience than is +sustained upon a turnpike-road in England in dusty weather. I could +not endure to mar the prospect by looking at it through a veil, and +found my parasol quite sufficient protection against the rays of the +sun. + +The kafila, which we had passed the preceding evening, overtook us +soon after we started. It consisted of a long train of camels, and +belonged to the native governor of Jiddah, who was proceeding to that +place with, his wife and family, a native vessel being in waiting +at Suez to take him down the Red Sea. We saw several females wrapped +closely from head to foot in long blue garments, mounted upon these +camels. The governor's wife travelled in a sort of cage, which I +recognised immediately, from the description in Anastatius. This +vehicle is formed of two rude kinds of sophas, or what in English +country phrase would be called settles, canopied overhead, and with a +resting place for the feet. They are sometimes separated, and slung on +either side of a camel; at other times joined together, and placed on +the top, with a curtain or cloth lining, to protect the inmates from +the sun, and secure the privacy so necessary for a Mohammedan lady. +The height of the camels with their lading, and this cage on +the summit of all, give an extraordinary and almost supernatural +appearance to the animal as he plods along, his head nodding, and his +whole body moving in a strange ungainly manner. + +Occasionally we saw a small party of Bedouins, easily distinguished by +the fierce countenances glaring from beneath the large rolls of cloth +twisted over their turbans, and round their throats, leaving nothing +besides flashing eyes, a strongly developed nose, and a bushy beard, +to be seen. One or two, superior to the rest, were handsomely +dressed, armed to the teeth, and rode camels well-groomed and richly +caparisoned; wild-looking warriors, whom it would not have been +agreeable to meet were the country in a less tranquil state. + +To the present ruler of Egypt we certainly owe the security now +enjoyed in passing the desert; a party of ladies, having only three +servants and a few donkey-drivers, required no other protection, +though our beds, dressing-cases, and carpet-bags, to say nothing of +the camels laden with trunks and portmanteaus a-head, must have been +rather tempting to robbers by profession. The Pasha is the only +person who has hitherto been able to oblige the Sheikhs to respect the +property of those travellers not strong enough to protect themselves +from outrage. It is said that occasionally these Bedouins, when +desirous of obtaining water, make no scruple of helping themselves to +the supplies at the bungalows; the will, therefore, is not wanting to +commit more serious depredations. Consequently, in maintaining a good +understanding with Egypt, we must likewise endeavour to render its +sovereign strong enough to keep the neighbouring tribes in awe. + +Having made a slight refection on the road, of hard-boiled eggs, +bread, grapes, and apples, we came up at mid-day to a rest-house, +where it was determined we should remain for an hour or two, to water +the donkeys, and afford them needful repose, while we enjoyed a more +substantial luncheon. Our companions were so well satisfied with the +management of Mohammed, who conducted the whole line of march, that +they sent their Egyptian servant forward to order our dinner at the +resting-place for the night. We found, however, that advantage had +been taken of Mohammed's absence the preceding evening, and of the +hurry of the morning's departure, to send back some of the animals we +had engaged and paid for, and to substitute others so weak as to be +perfectly useless. We were likewise cheated with regard to the water; +we were told that the camel bearing the skins, for which we had paid +at Cairo, had been taken by mistake by two gentlemen travelling in +advance, and as we could not allow the poor animals to suffer, we of +course purchased water for them. This was no doubt an imposition, but +one for which, under the circumstances, we had no remedy. + +Upon reaching the bungalow, we again came up with the kafila that we +had seen twice before; the wife of the governor of Jiddah, with +her women, vacated the apartment into which we were shown, when we +arrived; but her husband sent a message, requesting that we would +permit her to occupy another, which was empty. We were but too happy +to comply, and should have been glad to have obtained a personal +interview; but having no interpreter excepting Mohammed, who would +not have been admitted to the conference, we did not like to make the +attempt. From the glance which we obtained of the lady, she seemed +to be very diminutive; nothing beyond height and size could be +distinguishable under the blue envelope she wore, in common with her +women: some of the latter occasionally unveiled their faces, which +were certainly not very attractive; but others, probably those who +were younger and handsomer, kept their features closely shrouded. + +Again betaking ourselves to our conveyances, we launched forth into +the desert, enjoying it as much the second day as we had done the +first. I entertained a hope of seeing some of the beautiful gazelles, +for which Arabia is famous; but not one appeared. A pair of birds +occasionally skimmed over the desert, at a short distance from +its surface; but those were the only specimens of wild animals we +encountered. The skeletons of camels occurred as frequently as before; +many nearly entire, others with their bones scattered abroad, but +whether borne by the winds, or by some savage beast, we could not +learn. Neither could we discover whether the deaths of these poor +animals had been recent or not; for so short a time only is required +in Eastern countries for the insects to anatomize any animal that +may fall in their way, that even supposing that jackalls and hyaenas +should not be attracted to the spot, the ants would make quick work +even of so large a creature as a camel. + +There were hills in the back ground, which might probably shelter +vultures, kites, and the family of quadrupeds that feed upon offal, +and much did I desire to mount a high trotting camel, and take a +scamper amongst these hills--obliged to content myself with jogging +soberly on with my party, I was fain to find amusement in the +contemplation of a cavalcade, the like of which will probably not +be often seen again. Our five vehicles sometimes trotted abreast, +affording us an opportunity of conversing with each other; but more +frequently they would spread themselves all over the plain, the guides +allowing their beasts to take their own way, provided they moved +straight forward. Occasionally, a spare donkey, or one carrying the +baggage, would stray off in an oblique direction, and then the drivers +were compelled to make a wide detour to bring them in again. Once +or twice, the ropes slipped, and my chair came to the ground; +fortunately, it had not to fall far; or a donkey would stumble and +fall, but no serious accident occurred; and though one of the party, +being behind, and unable to procure assistance in righting the +carriage, was obliged to walk a mile or two, we were all speedily in +proper trim again. Towards evening, the easy motion of the chair, and +the inclination I felt to close my eyes, after staring about all day, +caused me to fall asleep; and again, much sooner than I had expected, +I found myself at the place of our destination. + +Either owing to a want of funds, or to some misunderstanding, the +bungalow at this place, which is considered to be nearly midway across +the desert, had only been raised a few inches from the ground; there +were tents, however, for the accommodation of travellers, which we +infinitely preferred. The one we occupied was of sufficient size to +admit the whole party--that is, the four ladies, the baby, and its +female attendant. There were divans on either side, to spread the beds +upon, and the openings at each end made the whole delightfully cool. + +We found Ali, the servant sent on in the morning, very busy +superintending the cookery for dinner, which was performed in the open +air. The share of bread and apples given to me upon the road I now +bestowed upon my donkeys, not having reflected at the time that +the drivers would be glad of it; so the next day, when the usual +distributions were made, I gave the grapes, &c. to the donkey-men, +who stuffed them into their usual repository, the bosoms of their blue +shirts, and seemed very well pleased to get them. + +The adjoining tent was occupied by two gentlemen, passengers of the +_Berenice_; their servant, a European, brought to some of our people +the alarming intelligence that the steamers would leave Suez in the +course of a few hours, and that our utmost speed would scarcely permit +us to arrive in time. Distrusting this information, we sent to inquire +into its truth, and learned that no danger of the kind was to be +apprehended, as the steamer required repair, the engines being out of +order, and the coal having ignited twice on the voyage up the Red Sea. + +Whatever may be the cause, whether from sheer misconception or +an intention to mislead, it is almost impossible to rely upon any +intelligence given concerning the sailing of vessels and other +events, about which it would appear very possible to obtain authentic +information. From the time of our landing at Alexandria, we had been +tormented by reports which, if true, rendered it more than probable +that we should be too late for the steamer appointed to convey the +Government mails to Bombay. Not one of these reports turned out to be +correct, and those who acted upon them sustained much discomfort in +hurrying across the desert. + +We were, as usual, rather late the following morning; our dear little +play-thing, the baby, bore the journey wonderfully; but it seemed very +requisite that she should have good and unbroken sleep at night, and +we found so little inconvenience in travelling in the day-time, that +we could make no objection to an arrangement which contributed so much +to her health and comfort. It was delightful to see this lovely little +creature actually appearing to enjoy the scene as much as ourselves; +sometimes seated in the lap of her nurse, who travelled in a chair, +at others at the bottom of one of our chairs; then in the arms of +her male attendant, who rode a donkey, or in those of the donkey-men, +trudging on foot; she went to every body, crowing and laughing all the +time; and I mention her often, not only for the delight she afforded +us, but also to show how very easily infants at her tender age--she +was not more than seven months old--could be transported across the +desert. + +After breakfast, and just as we were about to start upon our day's +journey, we saw what must certainly be called a strange sight--a +wheeled carriage approaching our small encampment. It came along like +the wind, and proved to be a phaeton, double-bodied, that is, with a +driving-seat in front, with a European charioteer guiding a pair of +horses as the wheelers, while the leaders were camels, with an Arab +riding postillion. An English and a Parsee gentleman were inside, and +the carriage was scarcely in sight, before it had stopped in the midst +of us. The party had only been a few hours coming across. We hastily +exchanged intelligence; were told that the _Berenice_ had lost all +its speed, being reduced, in consequence of alterations made in the +dock-yard in Bombay, from twelve knots an hour to eight, and that the +engines had never worked well during the voyage up. + +During this day's journey, we met several parties, passengers of the +steamer, coming from Suez. One lady passed us in a donkey-chair, with +her daughter riding a donkey by the side; another group, consisting +of two ladies and several gentlemen, were all mounted upon camels, +and having large umbrellas over their heads, made an exceedingly odd +appearance, the peculiar gait of the camel causing them to rise and +fall in a very singular manner. At a distance, their round moving +summits looked like the umbrageous tops of trees, and we might fancy +as they approached, the lower portion being hidden by ridges of sand, +that "Birnam Wood was coming to Dunsinane." + +The monotony usually complained of in desert travelling cannot be very +strongly felt between Cairo and Suez, for though there is little else +but sand to be seen, yet it is so much broken and undulated, that +there is always some diversity of objects. The sand-hills now gave +place to rock, and it appeared as if many ranges of hills stretched +out both to the right and left of the plains we traversed; their crags +and peaks, piled one upon the other, and showing various colours, rich +browns and purples, as they stood in shade or sunshine. Greenish tints +assured us that vegetation was not quite so seamy upon these hills +as in the desert they skirted, which only showed at intervals a few +coarse plants, scarcely deserving the name. It has been said, that +there is only one tree between Cairo and Suez; but we certainly +saw several, though none of any size; that which is called, _par +excellence_, "the tree," affording a very poor idea of timber. + +We made a short rest, in the middle of the day, at a travellers' +bungalow; and just as we were leaving it, one of Mr. Hill's caravans +arrived--a tilted cart upon springs, and drawn by a pair of horses; +it contained a family, passengers by the _Berenice,_ consisting of a +gentleman and his wife, two children and a servant. We conversed with +them for a few minutes, and learned that they had not found the +road very rough, and that where it was heavy they added a camel as a +leader. + +At this place we found some difficulty in purchasing, water for +the donkeys; competition in the desert is not, as in other places, +beneficial to the traveller. By some understanding with the Steam +Committee, Mr. Hill has put his people into the bungalows; and they, +it appears, have orders not to sell water to persons who travel under +Mr. Waghorn's agency. If the original purpose of these houses was to +afford general accommodation, the shelter which cannot be refused +is rendered nugatory by withholding the supplies necessary for the +subsistence of men and cattle. We procured water at last; but every +thing attainable at these places is dear and bad. + +We arrived, at rather an early hour, at our halting place for the +night; and as we considered it to be desirable to get into Suez as +speedily as possible, we agreed to start by three o'clock on the +following morning. Just as we had finished our evening meal, three +gentlemen of our acquaintance, who had scrambled across the desert +from the Pyramids, came up, weary and wayworn, and as hungry as +possible. We put the best that we had before them, and then retired +to the opposite apartment. But in this place I found it impossible to +stay; there was no free circulation of air throughout the room, and +it had all the benefit of the smell from the stable and other +abominations. + +Leaving, therefore, my companions asleep, and wrapping myself up in +my shawl, I stole out into the passage, where there were several Arabs +lying about, and not without difficulty contrived to step between +them, and to unfasten the door which opened upon the desert. There +was no moon, but the stars gave sufficient light to render the scene +distinctly visible. A lamp gleamed from the window of the apartment +which I had quitted, and the camels, donkeys, and people belonging +to the united parties, formed themselves into very picturesque groups +upon the sand, constituting altogether a picture which could not fail +to excite many agreeable sensations. The whitened bones of animals +perishing from fatigue and thirst, while attempting to cross the arid +expanse, associated in our minds with privation, toil, and danger, +told too truly that these notions were not purely ideal; but here +was a scene of rest and repose which the desert had never before +presented; and mean and inconvenient as the building I contemplated +might be, its very existence in such a place seemed almost a marvel, +and the imagination, kindling at the sight, could scarcely set bounds +to its expectations for the future. In the present frame of my mind, +however, I was rather disturbed by the indications of change already +commenced, and still to increase. I had long desired to spend a night +alone upon the desert, and without wandering to a dangerous distance, +I placed a ridge of sand between my solitary station and the objects +which brought the busy world to view, and indulged in thoughts of +scenes and circumstances which happened long ago. + +According to the best authorities, we were in the track of the +Israelites, and in meditations suggested by this interesting portion +of Bible history, the time passed so rapidly, that I was surprised +when I found the people astir and preparing for our departure. My +garments were rather damp with the night-dews, for, having left some +of my friends sleeping upon my fur cloak, I had gone out more lightly +attired than perhaps was prudent. I was not, therefore, sorry to find +myself warmly wrapped up, and in my chair, in which I should have +slept very comfortably, had Hot the man who guided the donkeys taken +it into his head to quarrel with one of his comrades, and to bawl out +his grievances close to my ear. My wakefulness was, however, amply +repaid by the most glorious sunrise I ever witnessed. The sky had been +for some time obscured by clouds, which had gathered themselves in a +bank upon the Eastern horizon. The sun's rays started up at once, +like an imperial crown, above this bank, and as they darted their +glittering spears, for such they seemed, along the heavens, the +clouds, dispersing, formed into a mighty arch, their edges becoming +golden; while below all was one flush of crimson light. Neither at sea +nor on land had I ever witnessed any thing so magnificent as this, +and those who desire to see the god of day rise in the fulness of his +majesty must make a pilgrimage to the desert. + +We made no stay at the rest-house, which we reached about nine o'clock +in the morning; and here, for the last time, we saw the governor of +Jiddah and his party, winding along at some distance, and giving life +and character to the desert. The fantastic appearance of the hills +increased as we advanced; the slightest stretch of fancy was alone +necessary to transform many into fortresses and towers, and at length +a bright glitter at a distance revealed the Red Sea. The sun gleaming +upon its waters shewed them like a mirror, and soon afterwards the +appearance of some low buildings indicated the town of Suez. + +I happened to be in advance of the party, under the conduct of one of +the gentlemen who had joined us on the preceding evening; I therefore +directed Mohammed to go forward, to announce our approach; and either +the sight of the Red Sea, or their eagerness to reach a well-known +spring of water, induced my donkeys to gallop along the road with me; +a fortunate circumstance, as the day was beginning to be very sultry, +and I felt that I should enjoy the shelter and repose of a habitation. +As we went along, indications of the new power, which had already +effected the easy transit of the desert, were visible in small patches +of coal, scattered upon the sand; presently we saw a dark nondescript +object, that did not look at all like the abode of men, civilized +or uncivilized; and yet, from the group hovering about an aperture, +seemed to be tenanted by human beings. This proved to be an old +boiler, formerly belonging to a steam-vessel, and appearing, indeed, +as if some black and shapeless hulk had been cast on shore. The well, +which had attracted my donkeys, was very picturesque; the water flowed +into a large stone trough, or rather basin, beneath the walls of a +castellated edifice, pierced with many small windows, and apparently +in a very dilapidated state. Those melancholy _memento moris,_ which +had tracked our whole progress through the desert, were to be seen +in the immediate vicinity of this well. The skeletons of five or six +camels lay in a group within a few yards of the haven which they had +doubtless toiled anxiously, though so vainly, to reach. I never could +look upon the bones of these poor animals without a painful feeling, +and in the hope that European skill and science may yet bring forward +those hidden waters which would disarm the desert of its terrors. +It is said that the experiment of boring has been tried, and failed, +between Suez and Cairo, but that it succeeded in the great desert; +some other method, perhaps, may be found, if the project of bringing +water from the hills, by means of aqueducts, should be too expensive. +We heard this plan talked of at the bungalow, but I fear that, in the +present state of Egypt, it is very chimerical. + +This was now our fourth day upon the desert, and we had not sustained +the smallest inconvenience; the heat, even at noon, being very +bearable, and the sand not in the least degree troublesome. Doubtless, +at a less favourable period of the year, both would prove difficult +to bear. The wind, we were told, frequently raised the sand in clouds; +and though the danger of being buried beneath the tombs thus made, we +had reason to believe, was greatly exaggerated, yet the plague of sand +is certainly an evil to be dreaded, and travellers will do well +to avoid the season in which it prevails. The speed of my donkeys +increasing, rather than diminishing, after we left the well, for they +seemed to know that Suez would terminate their journey, I crossed the +intervening three miles very quickly, and was soon at the walls of the +town. + +Distance lends no enchantment to the view of Suez. It is difficult to +fancy that the few miserable buildings, appearing upon the margin +of the sea, actually constitute a town; and the heart sinks at the +approach to a place so barren and desolate. My donkeys carried me +through a gap in the wall, which answered all the purposes of +a gateway, and we passed along broken ground and among wretched +habitations, more fit for the abode of savage beasts than men. Even +the superior description of houses bore so forlorn and dilapidated +an appearance, that I actually trembled as I approached them, fearing +that my guide would stop, and tell me that, my journey was at an end. + +Before I had time to make any observations upon the place to which I +was conducted, I found myself at the foot of a flight of steps, and +reaching a landing place, saw another above, and Mohammed descending +to meet me. I followed him to the top, and crossing a large apartment, +which served as dining and drawing room, entered a passage which led +to a light and certainly airy bed-chamber; for half the front wall, +and a portion of one of the sides, were entirely formed of wooden +trellice, which admitted, with the utmost freedom, all the winds of +heaven, the sun, and also the dust. There was a mat upon the floor, +and the apartment was whitewashed to the rafters, which were in good +condition; and upon Mohammed's declaration that it was free from rats, +I felt an assurance of a share of comfort which I had dared not expect +before. There were two neat beds, with musquito-curtains, two tables, +and washing apparatus, but no looking-glass; an omission which I could +supply, though we had dispensed with such a piece of luxury altogether +in the desert. Well supplied with hot and cold water, I had enjoyed +the refreshment of plenteous ablutions, and nearly completed my +toilet, before the arrival of the friends I had so completely +distanced. I made an attempt to sit down to my desk, but was unable +to write a line, and throwing myself on my bed full dressed, I fell +asleep in a moment, and enjoyed the deepest repose for an hour, or +perhaps longer. + +I was awakened by my friend, Miss E., who informed me that the purser +of the _Berenice_ was in the drawing-room, and that I must go to him +and pay my passage-money. I was not, however, provided with the means +of doing this in ready cash, and as the rate of exchange for the +thirty pounds in sovereigns which I possessed could not be decided +here, at the suggestion of one of my fellow-passengers, I drew a +bill upon a banker in Bombay for the amount, eighty pounds, the sum +demanded for half a cabin, which, fortunately, I could divide with +the friend who had accompanied me from England. This transaction so +completely roused me, that I found myself equal to the continuation +of the journal which I had commenced at Cairo. I despatched also the +letter with which I had been kindly furnished to the British Consul, +and was immediately favoured by a visit from him. As we expressed +some anxiety about our accommodation on board the steamer, he +politely offered to take us to the vessel in his own boat; but to +this arrangement the purser objected, stating that the ship was in +confusion, and that one of the best cabins had been reserved for us. +With this assurance we were accordingly content. + +We arrived at Suez on Wednesday, the 9th of October, and were told to +hold ourselves in readiness to embark on Friday at noon. We were not +sorry for this respite, especially as we found our hotel, which was +kept by a person in the employment of Mr. Waghorn, more comfortable +than could have been hoped for from its exterior. The greatest +annoyance we sustained was from the dust, which was brought in by a +very strong wind through the lattices. I endeavoured to remedy this +evil, in some degree, by directing the servants of the house to nail +a sheet across the upper portion of the perforated wood-work. The +windows of our chamber commanded as good a view of Suez as the place +afforded; one at the side overlooked an irregular open space, which +stretched between the house and the sea. At some distance opposite, +there were one or two mansions of much better appearance than the +rest, and having an air of comfort imparted to them by outside +shutters, of new and neat construction. These we understood to be the +abodes of officers in the Pasha's service. Mehemet Ali is said to +be extremely unwilling to allow English people to build houses +for themselves at Suez; while he freely grants permission to their +residence at Alexandria and Cairo, he seems averse to their settling +upon the shores of the Red Sea. Mr. Waghorn and Mr. Hill are, +therefore, compelled to be content to fit up the only residences at +their disposal in the best manner that circumstances will admit. I +had no opportunity of forming any opinion respecting Mr. Hill's +establishment, but am able to speak very well of the accommodation +afforded by the hotel at which we sojourned. + +Judging from the exterior, for the desert itself does not appear to +be less productive than Suez, there must have been some difficulty in +getting supplies, notwithstanding we found no want of good things at +our breakfast and dinner-table, plenty of eggs and milk, fowl and fish +being supplied; every article doing credit to the skill of the +cook. Nor was the cleanliness that prevailed, in despite of all the +obstacles opposed to it, less worthy of praise: the servants were +civil and attentive, and the prices charged extremely moderate. All +the guests of the hotel of course formed one family, assembling daily +at meals, after the continental fashion. The dining-room was spacious, +and divided into two portions; the one ascended by a step was +surrounded by divans, after the Egyptian fashion, and here were books +to be found containing useful and entertaining knowledge. A few stray +numbers of the _Asiatic Journal_, half a dozen volumes of standard +novels, files of the _Bombay Times_, and works illustrative of ancient +and modern Egypt, served to beguile the time of those who had +nothing else to do. Meanwhile, travellers came dropping in, and the +caravanserai was soon crowded. + + + + +CHAPTER VII. + + * * * * * + +SUEZ TO ADEN. + + * * * * * + + Travellers assembling at Suez--Remarks on the Pasha's + Government--Embarkation on the Steamer--Miserable accommodation in the + _Berenice_, and awkwardness of the attendants--Government Ships not + adapted to carry Passengers--Cause of the miserable state of the Red + Sea Steamers--Shores of the Red Sea--Arrival at Mocha--Its appearance + from the Sea--Arrival at Aden--Its wild and rocky appearance on + landing--Cape Aden--The Town--Singular appearance of the Houses--The + Garrison expecting an attack by the Arabs--Discontent of the + Servants of Europeans at Aden--Complaints by Anglo-Indians against + Servants--Causes--Little to interest Europeans in Aden. + + +Amongst the travellers who came dropping in at the hotel, was +the Portuguese governor of Goa and his suite, consisting of four +gentlemen, the private and public secretaries, an aide-de-camp, and +the fourth holding some other appointment. They came by the French +steamer, which had left Marseilles on the day of our departure. The +governor, a fine old soldier, and a perfect gentleman, proved a +great acquisition to our party; and knowing the state of Goa, and the +disappointment he would in all probability sustain upon arriving at +the seat of his government in the present low condition to which it +is reduced, we could not help feeling much interested in his welfare. +This gentleman, who inherited the title of baron, and was moreover +an old general officer, had mixed in the very best society, and was +evidently well acquainted with courts and camps; he spoke several +languages, and in the course of his travels had visited England. His +retinue were quiet gentlemanly men, and the young aide-de-camp, in +particular, made himself very agreeable. + +There were two other travellers of some note at Suez, who had put up +at Hill's Hotel; one, an American gentleman, who had come across the +desert for the purpose of looking at the Red Sea. I saw him mounted +upon a donkey, and gazing as he stood upon the shore at the bright but +narrow channel, so interesting to all who have read the history of the +Israelites, with reverential feelings. I felt a strong inclination +to accost him; but refrained, being unwilling to disturb his reveries +with what he might have thought an impertinent interruption. It was +evidently a last look, for he was veiled for the journey, and at +length, tearing himself away, he turned his donkey's head, and +struck into the desert. The other traveller was a young Scotsman, +who proposed to go as far as Aden in the _Berenice_, on his way to +Abyssinia, trusting that a residence of some months in Egypt would +enable him to pass for a Turk. He had no very precise object in view, +but intended to make an attempt to explore the sources of the Nile. + +There was nothing in Suez that could make a longer stay desirable, and +we quitted it without regret. My journey through Egypt had been much +too rapid for me to presume to give any decided opinion concerning +the strongly agitated question respecting the merits of the Pasha's +government. It is very evident that he has not learned the most +instructive lesson of political economy, nor has yet understood that +the way to render himself powerful is to make his subjects rich; +nevertheless, though his exactions and monopolies may be felt at +present as very serious evils, yet, in establishing manufactories, and +in embodying a national force, there can be no doubt that he has sown +the seeds of much that is good; and should his government, after +his death, fall into the hands of people equally free from religious +prejudices, we may reasonably hope that they will entertain more +enlarged and liberal views, and thus render measures, now difficult +to bear, of incalculable advantage to the future prosperity of the +country. + +The British Consul politely offered to conduct myself and my female +friends on board the steamer; he accordingly called for us, and I +bade, as I hoped, a last adieu to Suez, it being my wish and intention +to return home by way of Cosseir. Previous to our embarkation, a +series of regulations had been placed in our hands for the engagement +of passages in the Honourable Company's armed steamers, with +instructions to passengers, &c. + +Upon repairing to our cabin, Miss E. and myself were surprised and +disappointed at the miserable accommodation it afforded. The three +cabins allotted to the use of the ladies had been appropriated, in two +instances, to married couples, and we were obliged to put up with one +of smaller size, which had the additional inconvenience of opening +into the public saloon. There were no Venetian blinds to the door, +consequently, the only means of obtaining a free circulation of air +was to have it open. A locker with a hinged shelf, which opened like +a shutter, and thus afforded space for one mattress to be placed upon +it, ran along one side of the cabin, under the port-hole, but the +floor was the only visible means of accommodation for the second +person crammed by Government regulation into this den. There was not +a place in which a wash-hand basin could be put, so awkwardly were +the doors arranged, to one of which there was no fastening whatsoever. +Altogether, the case seemed hopeless, and as cock-roaches were walking +about the vessel by dozens, the prospect of sleeping on the ground +was anything but agreeable, especially with the feeling that we were +paying at the rate of four pounds a day for our accommodation. + +We were, however, compelled to postpone our arrangements, by a summons +to dinner; and in the evening, when repairing again to the cabin, I +found my mattress placed upon two portmanteaus and a box. Of course, +no attention was paid to the inequalities of the surface, and I +endeavoured, by folding my fur cloak and a thick dressing-gown +under my sheet, to render this miserable apology for a bed tenable. +Hitherto, our berth-places in the Government-steamers had been very +comfortable; though small, they answered the purpose of sleeping and +of washing, while the larger cabin into which they opened, and which +was set apart for the ladies, enabled us all to complete our toilets +without inconvenience. A sail had been hung before the door by way of +curtain, but the heat was still difficult to bear, and we found that +we had adventured upon the Red Sea at least a month too soon. The next +morning, the captain, hearing that I had, as might have been +expected, passed a wretched night, kindly sent his cot for my future +accommodation; after the second night, however, the servants thinking +it too much trouble to attend to it properly, the ropes gave way, and +it came down. The cabin being much too small to allow it to remain +hanging all day, I at first trusted to the servants to put it up at +night; but, after this accident, and finding them to be incorrigibly +stupid, lazy, and disobliging, I contented myself with placing the cot +upon two portmanteaus, and thus forming a bed-place. Subsequently, one +of the passengers having kindly adjusted the ropes, Miss E. and myself +contrived to sling it; a fatiguing operation, which added much to the +discomforts of the voyage. The idea of going upon the quarter-deck, or +writing a letter, which might perhaps be handed up to Government, to +make a formal complaint to the captain, was not to be thought of, and +seeing the impossibility of getting any thing properly done by the +tribe of uncouth barbarians dignified by the name of servants, the +only plan was to render myself quite independent of them, and much did +we miss the activity, good humour, and readiness to oblige manifested +by our Egyptian attendant, Mohammed. Where a wish to please is +evinced, though wholly unattended by efficiency in the duties +undertaken by a servant, I can very easily excuse awkwardness, +forgetfulness, or any other fault; but the wretched half-castes, who +take service on board the Government steamers, have not even common +civility to recommend them; there was not a passenger in the vessel +who did not complain of the insults to which all were more or less +subjected. + +Where the blame lay, it is difficult to state exactly; no one could be +more kind and obliging than the captain, and it was this disposition +upon his part which rendered us all unwilling to worry him with +complaints. The charge of a steamer in the Red Sea seems quite enough +to occupy the commandant's time and attention, without having the +comforts of seven or eight-and-twenty passengers to look after; but +these duties might have been performed by a clever and active steward. +Whether there was a personage on board of that designation, I never +could learn; I asked several times to speak with him, but he never in +a single instance attended the summons. + +We had no reason to complain of want of liberality on the part of the +captain, for the table was plentifully supplied, though the cooks, +being unfortunately most worthy of the patronage of that potentate who +is said to send them to our kitchens, generally contrived to render +the greater portion uneatable. The advantage of rising from table with +an appetite is one which I have usually tried on board ship, having +only in few instances, during my numerous voyages, been fortunate +enough to find food upon which I dared to venture. + +The more I have seen of government ships, the more certain I feel that +they are not adapted to carry passengers. The authorities appear to +think that people ought to be too thankful to pay an enormous price +for the worst species of accommodation. The commandants have not +been accustomed to attend to the minutiae which can alone secure the +comfort of those who sail with them, while the officers, generally +speaking, endeavour to show their contempt of the service in which +they are sent, against their inclination, by neglect and even rudeness +towards the passengers. + +While on board the _Berenice_, the following paragraph in a Bombay +newspaper struck my eye, and as it is a corroboration of the +statements which I deem it to be a duty to make, I insert it in this +place. "The voyager (from Agra) must not think his troubles at an +end on reaching Bombay, or that the steam-packets are equal to the +passenger Indiaman in accommodation. In fact, I cannot conceive how a +lady manages; we have, however, five. There are only seven very small +cabins, into each of which two people are crammed; no room to swing +cats. Eight other deluded individuals, of whom I am one, are given to +understand that a cabin-passage is included in permission to sleep on +the benches and table of the cuddy. For this you pay Rs. 200 extra. +The vessel is dirty beyond measure, from the soot, and with the +difficulty of copious ablution and private accommodation, is almost +worse, to a lover of Indian habits, than the journey to Bombay from +Agra upon camels. No civility is to be got from the officers. If they +are not directly uncivil, the passengers are luckier than we have +been. They declare themselves disgusted with passenger ships, but do +not take the proper way of showing their superiority to the duty." + +The only officer of the _Berenice_ who dined at the captain's table +was the surgeon of the vessel, and in justice to him it must be +said, that he left no means untried to promote the comfort of the +passengers. It is likewise necessary to state, that we were never +put upon an allowance of water, although, in consequence of late +alterations made in the dockyard, the vessel had been reduced to +about half the quantity she had been accustomed to carry in iron tanks +constructed for the purpose. Notwithstanding this reduction, we +could always procure a sufficiency, either of hot or cold water, for +ablutions, rendered doubly necessary in consequence of the atmosphere +of coal-dust which we breathed. Not that it was possible to continue +clean for a single hour; nevertheless, there was some comfort in +making the attempt. + +There were eight cabins in the _Berenice_, besides the three +appropriated to ladies; these were ranged four on either side of +the saloon, reaching up two-thirds of the length. The apartment, +therefore, took the form of a T, and the upper end or cross was +furnished with horse-hair sofas; upon these, and upon the table, those +passengers slept who were not provided with cabins. Many preferred the +deck, but being washed out of it by the necessary cleaning process, +which took place at day-break, were obliged to make their toilettes +in the saloon. This also formed the dressing-place for dinner, and the +basins of dirty water, hair-brushes, &c. were scarcely removed from +the side-tables before the party were summoned to their repast. The +preparations for this meal were a work of time, always beginning at +half-past one; an hour was employed in placing the dishes upon the +table, in order that every thing might have time to cool. + +The reason assigned for not putting Venetian blinds to the cabin-doors +was this: it would injure the appearance of the cabin--an appearance +certainly not much improved by the dirty sail which hung against our +portal. The saloon itself, without this addition, was dingy enough, +being panelled with dark oak, relieved by a narrow gilt cornice, and +the royal arms carved and gilded over an arm-chair at the rudder-case, +the ornaments of a clock which never kept time. All the servants, who +could not find accommodation elsewhere, slept under the table; thus +adding to the abominations of this frightful place. And yet we were +congratulated upon our good fortune, in being accommodated in the +_Berenice_, being told that the _Zenobia_, which passed us on our way, +had been employed in carrying pigs between Waterford and Bristol, and +that the _Hugh Lindsay_ was in even worse condition; the _Berenice_ +being, in short, the crack ship. + +Every day added to the heat and the dirt, and in the evening, when +going upon deck to inhale the odours of the hen-coops, the smell was +insufferable. When to this annoyance coal-dust, half an inch deep, +is added, my preference of my own cabin will not be a subject of +surprise. With what degree of truth, I cannot pretend to say, all +the disagreeable circumstances sustained on board the _Berenice_ were +attributed to the alterations made in the docks. Previously to these +changes, we were told, the furnaces were supplied with coal by a +method which obviated the necessity of having it upon deck, whence the +dust was now carried all over the ship upon the feet of the persons +who were continually passing to and fro. + +Occasionally, we suffered some inconvenience from the motion of the +vessel, but, generally speaking, nothing more disagreeable occurred +than the tremulous action of the engines, an action which completely +incapacitated me from any employment except that of reading. The only +seats or tables we could command in our cabin consisted of our boxes, +so that being turned out of the saloon at half-past one, by the +servants who laid the cloth for dinner, it was not very easy to make +an attempt at writing, or even needle-work. Doubtless the passengers +from Bombay could contrive to have more comforts about them. It was +impossible, however, that those who had already made a long overland +journey should be provided with the means of furnishing their cabins, +and this consideration should weigh with the Government when taking +money for the accommodation of passengers. Cabins ought certainly to +be supplied with bed-places and a washing-table, and not to be left +perfectly dismantled by those occupants who arrive at Suez, and who, +having previously fitted them up, have a right to all they contain. + +The miserable state of the Red Sea steamers, of course, often +furnished a theme for conversation, and we were repeatedly told that +their condition was entirely owing to the jealousy of the people of +Calcutta, who could not endure the idea of the importance to which +Bombay was rising, in consequence of its speedy communication with +England. Without knowing exactly where the fault may lie, it must be +said that there is great room for improvement. In all probability, the +increased number of persons who will proceed to India by way of the +Red Sea, now that the passage is open, will compel the merchants, or +other speculators, to provide better vessels for the trip. At present, +the price demanded is enormously disproportioned to the accommodation +given, while the chance of falling in with a disagreeable person in +the commandant should be always taken into consideration by those who +meditate the overland journey. The consolation, in so fine a vessel +as the _Berenice_, consists in the degree of certainty with which +the duration of the voyage may be calculated, eighteen or twenty days +being the usual period employed. In smaller steamers, and those of a +less favourable construction, accidents and delays are very frequent; +sometimes the coal is burning half the voyage, and thus rendered +nearly useless to the remaining portion, the vessel depending entirely +upon the sails. + +During the hot weather and the monsoons, the navigation of the Red +Sea is attended with much inconvenience, from the sultriness of the +atmosphere and the high winds; it is only, therefore, at one season +of the year that travellers can, with any hope of comfort, avail +themselves of the route; it must, consequently, be questionable +whether the influx of voyagers will be sufficiently great to cover the +expense of the vessels required. A large steamer is now building +at Bombay, for the purpose of conveying the mails, and another is +expected out from England with the same object. + +The shores of the Red Sea are bold and rocky, exhibiting ranges of +picturesque hills, sometimes seceding from, at others approaching, the +beach. A few days brought us to Mocha. The captain had kindly promised +to take me on shore with him; but, unfortunately, the heat and the +fatigue which I had sustained had occasioned a slight attack of fever, +and as we did not arrive before the town until nearly twelve o'clock, +I was afraid to encounter the rays of the sun during the day. We could +obtain a good view of the city from the vessel; it appeared to +be large and well built, that is, comparatively speaking; but its +unsheltered walls, absolutely baked in the sun, and the arid waste on +which it stood, gave to it a wild and desolate appearance. + +We were told that already, since the British occupation of Aden, the +trade of Mocha had fallen off. It seldom happens that a steamer passes +down the Red Sea without bringing emigrants from Mocha, anxious to +establish themselves in the new settlement; and if Aden were made +a free port, there can be little doubt that it would monopolize the +whole commerce of the neighbourhood. The persons desirous to colonize +the place say, very justly, that they cannot afford to pay duties, +having to quit their own houses at a loss, and to construct others, +Aden being at present destitute of accommodation for strangers. If, +however, encouragement should be given them, they will flock thither +in great numbers; and, under proper management, there is every reason +to hope that Aden will recover all its former importance and wealth, +and become one of the most useful dependencies of the British crown. + +We were to take in coals and water at Aden, and arriving there in the +afternoon of Saturday, the 19th of October, every body determined to +go on shore, if possible, on the ensuing morning. By the kindness of +some friends, we had palanquins in waiting at day-break, which were +to convey us a distance of five miles to the place now occupied +as cantonments. Our road conducted us for a mile or two along the +sea-shore, with high crags piled on one side, a rugged path, and rocks +rising out of the water to a considerable distance. We then ascended +a height, which led to an aperture in the hills, called the Pass. +Here we found a gate and a guard of sepoys. The scenery was wild, and +though nearly destitute of vegetation--a few coarse plants occurring +here and there scarcely deserving the name--very beautiful. + +It would, perhaps, be too much to designate the bare and lofty cliffs, +which piled themselves upwards in confused masses, with the name of +mountains; they nevertheless conveyed ideas of sublimity which I had +not associated with other landscapes of a similar nature. The Pass, +narrow and enclosed on either side by winding rocks, brought us at +length down a rather steep declivity to a sort of basin, surrounded +upon three sides with lofty hills, and on the fourth by the sea. + +Cape Aden forms a high and rocky promontory, the most elevated portion +being 1,776 feet above the level of the sea. This lofty headland, when +viewed at a distance, appears like an island, in consequence of +its being connected with the interior by low ground, which, in the +vicinity of Khora Muckse, is quite a swamp. Its summits assume the +aspect of turretted peaks, having ruined forts and watch-towers on +the highest elevations. The hills are naked and barren, and the valley +little better; the whole, however, presenting a grand, picturesque, +and imposing appearance. The town of Aden lies on the east side of the +Cape, in the amphitheatre before mentioned. A sketch of its history +will be given, gathered upon the spot, in a subsequent paper, the +place being sufficiently interesting to demand a lengthened notice; +meanwhile a passing remark is called for on its present appearance. + +At first sight of Aden, it is difficult to suppose it to be the +residence of human beings, and more especially of European families. +The town, if such it may be called, consists of a few scattered houses +of stone, apparently loosely put together, with pigeon-holes for +windows, and roofs which, being flat, and apparently surrounded by a +low parapet, afford no idea of their being habitable. It is difficult +to find a comparison for these dwellings, which appeared to be +composed of nothing more than four walls, and yet, to judge from the +apertures, contained two or more stories. The greater number were +enclosed in a sort of yard or compound, the fences being formed of +long yellow reeds; the less substantial dwellings were entirely made +of these reeds, so that they looked like immense crates or cages for +domestic fowls. + +My palanquin at length stopped at a flight of steps hewn out of +the rock; and I found myself at the entrance of a habitation, +half-bungalow, half-tent; and certainly, as the permanent abode +of civilized beings, the strangest residence I had ever seen. The +uprights and frame-work were made of reeds and bamboos, lined with +thin mats, which had at one time been double; but the harbour thus +afforded for rats being found inconvenient, the outer casing had been +removed. Two good-sized apartments, with verandahs all round, and +dressing and bathing-rooms attached, were formed in this way; they +were well carpeted and well furnished, but destitute both of glass +windows and wooden doors; what are called in India _jaumps_, and +chicks of split bamboo, being the substitutes. + +Government not yet having fixed upon the site for the station intended +to be established at Aden, none of the European inhabitants have +begun to build their houses, which, it is said, are to be very +solidly constructed of stone; at present, they are scattered, in Gipsy +fashion, upon the rocks overlooking the sea, and at the time of the +year in which I visited them they enjoyed a delightfully cool breeze. +What they would be in the hot weather, it is difficult to say. The +supplies, for the most part, come from a considerable distance, but +appear to be abundant; and when at length a good understanding shall +have taken place between the British Government and the neighbouring +sheikhs, the markets will be furnished with every thing that the +countries in the vicinity produce. + +The garrison were prepared, at the period of our arrival, for the +outbreak which has since occurred. It is melancholy to contemplate the +sacrifice of life which will in all probability take place before the +Arabs will be reconciled to the loss of a territory which has for +a long time been of no use to them, but which, under its present +masters, bids fair to introduce mines of wealth into an impoverished +country. The Pasha of Egypt had long cast a covetous eye upon Aden, +and its occupation by the British took place at the precise period +requisite to check the ambitious designs of a man thirsting for +conquest, and to allay the fears of the Imaum of Muscat, who, +naturally enough, dreaded encroachments upon his territory. + +Aden had hitherto agreed very well with its European residents. The +sepoys, servants, and camp-followers, however, had suffered much both +from mental and bodily ailments. They were deprived of their usual +sources of amusement, and of their accustomed food, and languished +under that home-sickness, which the natives of India feel in a very +acute degree. The greater number of servants were discontented, and +anxious to return to their native country. This natural desire upon +their part was highly resented by their masters, who, instead of +taking the most obvious means of remedying the evil, and employing +the natives of the place, who appeared to be tractable and teachable +enough, abused and threatened to beat the unfortunate people, +convicted of what self-love styles "ingratitude." + +In a very clever work, I have seen the whole sum of the miseries of +human life comprised in one word, "servants;" and until we can procure +human beings with all the perfections of our fallen nature, and none +of our faults, to minister to our wants and wishes, the complaint, +so sickening and so general, and frequently so unjust, will be +reiterated. Anglo-Indians, however, seem to be more tormented by these +domestic plagues than any other set of people. The instant a stranger +lands upon Asiatic ground, we hear of nothing else. It is considered +to be polite conversation in the drawing-room, aid delicate-looking +women will listen with the greatest complacence to the most brutal +threats uttered by their male associates against the wretched people +whom hard fate has placed about their persons. By some mischance, +these very individuals are equally ill-served at home, the greater +number who return to England being either rendered miserable there, or +driven back to India in consequence of the impossibility of managing +their servants. As far as my own experience goes, with the exception +of the people in the _Berenice_, who were not in the slightest degree +under the control of the passengers, or, it may be said, attached to +them in any way, I have always found it easy, both at home and abroad, +to obtain good servants, at least quite as good as people, conscious +of the infirmities of humanity in their own persons, have a right to +expect. My simple rule has been, never to keep a person who did not +suit me, and to treat those who did with kindness and indulgence. The +system has always answered, and I am probably on that account the less +inclined to sympathize with persons who are eternally complaining. + +There may be some excuse at Aden for the conversation turning upon +domestic matters of this kind, and perhaps I do the station injustice +in supposing that they form a common topic. With the exception of +those persons who take pleasure in the anticipation of the improvement +of the surrounding tribes, there is very little to interest European +residents in this arid spot. Should, however, the hopes which many +enlightened individuals entertain be realized, or the prospect of +their fulfilment continue unclouded, those who now endure a dreary +exile in a barren country, and surrounded by a hostile people, will +or ought to derive much consolation from the thought, that their +employment upon a disagreeable duty may prove of the utmost benefit to +thousands of their fellow-creatures. It is pleasant to look forward to +the civilization of Abyssinia, and other more remote places, by means +of commercial intercourse with Aden. + + + + +CHAPTER VIII. + + * * * * * + +ADEN. + + * * * * * + + Commanding situation of Aden--Its importance in former times--But few + remains of its grandeur--Its facilities as a retreat for the piratical + hordes of the Desert--The loss of its trade followed by reduction + of the population--Speculations as to the probability of ultimately + resisting the Arabs--Exaggerated notions entertained by the Shiekhs of + the wealth of the British--Aden a free Port would be the Queen of the + adjacent Seas--Its advantages over Mocha--The Inhabitants of Aden--The + Jews--The Banians--The Soomalees--The Arabs--Hopes of the prosperity + of Aden--Goods in request there--Exports--Re-embarkation on the + Steamer--Want of attention--Makallah--Description of the place--Its + products--The Gazelle--Traveller in Abyssinia--Adventurous English + Travellers--Attractions of the Arab life--Arrival at Bombay. + + +Wretched and miserable as the appearance of Aden must be deemed at +the present moment, its commanding situation rendered it of great +importance in former times. During the reign of Constantine, it was an +opulent city, forming one of the great emporia for the commerce of +the East. The sole remains of the grandeur it once boasted consists of +about ninety dilapidated stone houses, the greater number of dwellings +which seem to shelter its scanty population being nothing more than +huts rudely constructed of reeds. These wretched tenements, huddled +together without the slightest attempt at regularity, occupy the +crater of an extinct volcano. Unrelieved by trees, and assimilating +in colour with the arid soil and barren hills rising around, they +scarcely convey an idea of the purpose for which they are designed. + +A stranger, entering Aden, finds it difficult to believe that he is in +the midst of an inhabited place, the houses appearing to be fewer in +number, and more insignificant, than a closer inspection proves them +to be. No splendid fragment, imposing in its ruin, records the glory +and opulence of the populous city, as it existed in the days of +Solyman the Magnificent, the era from whence it dates its decline. The +possession of Aden was eagerly contended for by the two great powers, +the Turks and the Portuguese, struggling for mastery in the East, and +when they were no longer able to maintain their rivalry, it reverted +into the hands of its ancient masters, the Arabs. The security +afforded by its natural defences, aided by the fortifications, the +work of former times, rendered it a suitable retreat for the piratical +hordes of the desert. The lawless sons of Ishmael could, from this +stronghold, rush out upon the adjacent waters, and make themselves +masters of the wealth of those adventurers who dared to encounter the +dangers of the Red Sea. + +With the loss of every thing approaching to good government, Aden lost +its trade. The system of monopoly, which enriches the sovereign at the +expense of the subject, speedily ends in ruin. The superior classes of +the inhabitants were either driven away, in consequence of the tyranny +which they endured, or, reduced to a state of destitution, perished +miserably upon the soil, until at length the traces of former +magnificence became few and faint, the once flourishing city falling +into one wide waste of desolation. The remains of a splendid aqueduct, +which was at the first survey mistaken for a Roman road; a solitary +watch-tower, and a series of broken walls, alone attest the ancient +glories of the place. + +Previous to the occupation of the British, the population of Aden +scarcely exceeded six hundred souls; it is now, independently of the +garrison, more nearly approaching to a thousand, and of these the +principal number are Jews, who, together with about fifty Banians, +have contrived to amass a little of what, by comparison, may be called +wealth. The trade of Aden, for a long time before we obtained our +present possession, was very trifling, the imports consisting of a few +English cotton cloths, together with lead, iron, and tin, which +were brought by Buglas on their way to Mocha; rice, dates, and small +numbers of cattle, likewise, coming from neighbouring places; while +the exports were limited to a little coffee, millet, and a few drugs. + +At the period of my visit to Aden, the garrison were in almost +momentary expectation of an attack from the Arabs, who had gathered +to the amount of five thousand in the neighbourhood, and kept the new +occupants continually upon the alert. Of course, in such a state of +affairs, great differences of opinion existed respecting the ultimate +fate of this interesting place. Many acute persons consider the +project of colonizing a barren spot, surrounded by hostile tribes, by +a handful of soldiers from India, chimerical, especially in the teeth +of predictions which have for so long a period been fulfilled to the +letter. It is stated that the Imaum of Muscat asked, in astonishment, +whether we were mad enough to contemplate the subjugation of the +Arabs, the sons of his father Ishmael; since we could not be so +ignorant of our own Scriptures as not to know that their hands were to +be eternally against every man, and every man's hand against theirs. +But, although the Arabs should continue hostile, while we are masters +of the sea, and can strengthen Aden so completely upon the land-side, +as to render it, what many people believe it can be made, a second +Gibraltar, we have a wide field for commercial speculation in the +opposite coast of Africa. + +Aden is, at present, a very expensive possession, and the long period +which has elapsed since our occupation, without preparations +having been commenced for a permanent residence, has occasioned an +apprehension that it may be ultimately abandoned. Many persons are, +however, sanguine in the hope that, as soon as scientific men have +decided upon the best site for a cantonment, buildings will be erected +for the reception of the garrison. These, it is confidently expected, +will be upon a grand scale, and of solid construction. The greater +portion of the materials must be brought from distant places, and +already some of the European inhabitants are conveying from Bombay +those portable houses which are commonly set up during the cold season +on the Esplanade, and which will afford a great improvement upon +the dwellings of bamboos, reeds, and mats, which at present form +the abodes of the officers of this establishment. It has been +satisfactorily ascertained, that the clearing out and repairing the +old tanks and wells will be sufficient to secure an ample supply of +water for a very extensive population, the report of those gentlemen +employed in analyzing its quality being highly favourable. + +A little allowance must, of course, be made for the sanguine nature of +the expectations formed by persons whose imaginations are dazzled by +the splendid visions of the future arising before them; still, enough +appears to have been demonstrated to justify a strong hope that there +are no serious difficulties in the way of our permanent occupation of +a place which we have succeeded in rescuing from Arab tyranny. It will +be long, perhaps, before the neighbouring sheikhs will consent to an +amicable arrangement with the British authorities of Aden, for they +at present entertain the most exaggerated notions of the wealth of its +new possessors. + +The English, with their usual thoughtless improvidence, threw about +their money so carelessly, that, soon after their arrival, every +article of household consumption doubled and trebled in price, +the remuneration for labour rising in proportion. This improvident +expenditure has had the effect of making the people discontented. +Imagining our resources to be inexhaustible, they do not know how much +to ask for their commodities or their services, and it will require +great firmness and discretion, on the part of the persons in +authority, to settle the fair price for both. The erection of new +houses, which are called for by nearly every fresh arrival, even in +their present light construction, serves very materially to enrich the +inhabitants of Aden, the natural consequence being an increase of the +industrious portion of the population, while it may be confidently +expected that the commencement of superior works will attract a +superior class of persons to the place. + +The present Resident is a strenuous advocate for the abolition of all +duties, at least for a time; and should the representations made +by him, and other persons well acquainted with the character and +resources of the surrounding countries, succeed in inducing the +Government of India to render Aden a free port, it would soon become +the queen of the adjacent seas. The town of Senna is only at the +distance of seven or eight days' journey for camels and merchandize. +The coffee districts are actually nearer to it than to Mocha, and +the road equally safe and convenient; other large towns in Yemen +are within an easy journey, and the rich and populous places in the +province of Hydramut are open for its trade. + +The mountains to the north of Aden produce gums, frankincense, and +coffee, which would soon find their way to so promising a market. Its +harbour being immediately to the north of Barbar, vessels during the +north-eastern monsoon would reach it with the produce of Africa in +twenty-four hours, returning with British and Indian produce in the +same time. All the exports of Hanall, and other large interior towns +on the opposite coast, consisting of coffee, gums, myrrh, hides, +elephants' teeth, gold dust, ostrich feathers, &c, would be conveyed +to Aden, to be exchanged for piece goods, chintzes, cutlery, and rice; +all of which would find a ready market. The manufactures of India +and of Great Britain would thus be very extensively introduced, there +being good reason to believe that they would be largely purchased in +the provinces of Yemen and Hydramut. + +Amongst the great advantages which Aden possesses over Mocha, is the +situation of its harbour, which may be entered by a ship or boat at +any period of the year, and quitted with the same facility: whereas +its rival port is so difficult of access in the months of March, +April, and May, that boats are sometimes six, seven, or eight days +getting to the straits, a distance of forty miles only. These are +considerations worthy of the attention of merchants, the length of the +voyage not being the sole source of annoyance, since vessels taking +cargoes at Aden save the great wear and tear occasioned in their +return down the Red Sea. + +Perhaps, considering the difficulty of conciliating the semi-barbarous +tribes in the neighbourhood, the trade and population of Aden have +increased as much as we could reasonably hope; but when peace shall at +length be established, it will doubtless attract merchants and Banians +from Surat, as well as all other adjacent places. If at this moment +our expectations have not been completely answered, we have at least +the satisfaction of knowing that, besides having saved the Red Sea +from the encroachments of the Pasha of Egypt, we have anticipated +a rival power, which has already derived greater advantage from our +supineness, with regard to our Eastern possessions, than is desirable. + +The Americans, during 1833-4-5, had a small squadron looking all about +for a spot which they could turn to good account. Socotra, from its +convenient position between Africa and Arabia, proved a point of +attraction, and had not Capt. Haines, of the Indian Navy, promptly +taken possession, in the name of Great Britain, they would in all +probability have succeeded in effecting a settlement. With their usual +attention to the interests of their commerce, the Americans have a +resident permanently stationed at Zanzibar, and have made advantageous +arrangements with the Imaum of Muscat, whereby the trade with the +United States has greatly increased; American ships are constantly +arriving, with piece-goods, glass-ware, &c, and returning with +profitable cargoes, the produce of Africa. + +The inhabitants of Aden appear to be a peaceable race, generally well +affected to the government, from which they cannot fail to derive +advantage. The Jews, as I have before mentioned, are the most +important, both in consequence of their number and of their superior +wealth; they belong to the tribe of Judah, and are very industrious, +being the manufacturers of the place. + +It is by the Jews and their families, the females assisting, that a +coarse kind of cloth, employed for their own garments, and also sold +to strangers, is spun and woven. This cloth is in much esteem +amongst the Arabs: when prepared for them, it is dyed blue, sometimes +ornamented with red borders, indigo being employed, together with +extracts from other plants. The women generally wear a single loose +garment, covering the head with a handkerchief when they leave the +house; they do not, however, conceal their faces. Previous to the +occupation of Aden, the Jewesses were remarkable for the propriety of +their manners, but as they are esteemed handsome, and moreover attract +by their good temper and intelligence, it is to be feared that they +will meet with many temptations to depart from the decorum they have +hitherto maintained. Like their sex and peculiar race, they are +fond of ornaments, adorning themselves with large silver ear-rings, +bracelets, necklaces, and armlets. Hitherto, whatever wealth they +possessed, they were obliged to conceal, the Arabs proving very severe +and oppressive masters; their prospects are now brightening, and they +have already shown a disposition to profit by the new order of things, +having opened shops in the bazaar, and commenced trading in a way they +never ventured upon before. + +Nor is it in spinning and weaving alone that the Jews of Aden excel; +artizans in silver and copper are to be found amongst them, together +with stone-cutters, and other handicrafts-men. They have a school for +the education of their male youth, the females not having yet enjoyed +this advantage, in consequence of the intolerance of the Arabs, who +view with prejudiced eyes every attempt to emancipate women from the +condition to which they have been so long reduced. + +The means of instruction possessed by the Jews of Aden are not very +extensive, a few printed Bibles and MS. extracts forming the whole +of their literature. It has been thought that missionaries would here +find a fair field for their exertions; but, unfortunately, the most +promising places in the East are, by some mistake, either of ignorance +or ambition, left wholly destitute of Christian teachers. While the +pledges of Government are compromised in India, and its stability +threatened, by the daring attempts to make converts at the +presidencies, and other considerable places, where success is +attended with great noise and clamour, many portions of the Company's +territories, in which much quiet good might be effected, are left +entirely without religious aid. + +The Banians, though small in number, rank next to the Jews in +importance, and are, perhaps, more wealthy; they are not, however, +so completely identified with the soil, for they do not bring their +families with them when emigrating to Aden from the places of their +birth. The greater number come from Cutch, arriving at an early period +of life, and with the craft that usually distinguishes them, studying +the character of the Arabs, and making the most of it. They are not +esteemed such good subjects to the new government as the Jews, their +expectations of benefit from a change of masters, in consequence of +their having proved the chief gainers heretofore, being less sanguine. + +The Soomalees are natives of Barbora, and are in number about two +hundred. They employ themselves in making baskets, mats, and fans, +from the leaves of a species of palm-tree; they are not so active and +industrious as the Jews, but the younger portion, if brought up in +European families, might, with the advantage of good tuition, become +useful as servants and labourers. They are Mohamedans, but not very +strict, either in their religious or moral principles, violating oaths +sworn upon the _Koran_, and cheating and thieving whenever they can. +The love of money, however, is a strong stimulus to improvement, and +where it exists, or can be created, the case is far more hopeful than +when the wants and desires are both limited. The Soomalee women are +reckoned handsome, though in that respect they cannot compare with the +Jewesses, their complexions being much darker and their hair coarse; +they have tall, well-proportioned figures, and are as attentive to +their dress and appearance as their poverty will admit. The Arabs are +the least prepossessing of all the inhabitants of Aden, and it will +be long before any confidence can be placed in them. They religiously +conceal their women, and are a bigoted, prejudiced race, disaffected +of course to the new government, and shy of intercourse with the +British occupants. + +That the hopes entertained of the prosperity of Aden have not been +more speedily realized, may be attributed to the prevalent belief that +its new masters could not maintain their ground against the hostile +Arabs of the neighbourhood. It is the opinion of a competent judge, +that, "as soon as the inhabitants of distant countries feel convinced +that our occupation of Aden is intended to be a _permanent_, and not a +temporary measure, they will establish agencies there under our flag, +in preference to any other, and open an extensive traffic." The same +authority states that "it is the opinion of the Banians and Arabs, +that Aden _will regain_ her former commercial renown." + +With respect to the goods at present in requisition, or likely to meet +a sale, at Aden, we learn from the report above quoted, that "of the +manufactures of Europe, coloured handkerchiefs and hardware are +only in demand, though longcloths are procurable and are sometimes +purchased by the Arabs; but these articles are priced so high, as to +prevent any great consumption of them. From what I observed of the +Arab disposition and taste, I certainly believe that coloured cotton +goods of _fast_ colours, and of patterns similar to those elsewhere +specified, if offered at rates somewhat reasonable, would in a very +short period meet with an extensive sale, and be rapidly introduced +into common use amongst the Arabs of the interior. The novelty of the +experiment would at first induce the Arabs to become purchasers, when, +finding the articles _good_, it is but reasonable to anticipate an +extensive demand. The colours should be particularly attended to, for +the certainty of obtaining goods of _fast colours_ would alone ensure +the articles in question a speedy sale. The handkerchiefs that have +already been introduced into Aden are of the worst sort relative +to colour, generally becoming after two or three washings white, or +nearly so; thus it cannot be wondered at if these goods meet with but +a poor demand." + +The ravages committed by the army of the Pasha of Egypt, in the +fertile districts of the neighbourhood of Aden, have been prejudicial +to the interests of the new settlement, and perhaps so long as the +hope of plunder can be entertained by the petty princes, who rule +the adjacent districts, they will be unwilling to wait for the +slower advantages derivable from commerce. The apparently reckless +expenditure of the British residents, and the princely pay given to +the soldiers of the garrison, have offered so dazzling a prospect +of gain, that they (the native chiefs) will have some difficulty in +abandoning the hope of making themselves masters, at a single blow, of +all the treasure brought to their shores. It is said that some Turks, +deserters from Mehemet Ali, who took refuge in Aden, upon being made +acquainted with the amount of pay given to the British troops, and the +regularity with which it was issued, exclaimed, "God is great, and the +English are immortal!" + +During the proper seasons, Aden is well supplied with fruit; its trade +in honey and wax might become very important, the adjacent countries +yielding abundance of both, and of so fine a quality, as to compete +with the produce of the hives of the Mediterranean. Drugs are +procurable in equal abundance, together with perfumes and spices. The +European inhabitants are, of course, compelled to send to Bombay +for those luxuries which habit has rendered necessary; the constant +communication with the presidency renders them easily procurable, +while the intercourse with India and England, by means of the +steamers, relieves the monotony which would otherwise be severely +felt. + +I could have spent two or three days with great pleasure at Aden, +inquiring into its early history, present condition, and future +prospects, and regretted much when a summons reached me to depart. We +entertained a hope that the steamer would come round and take us off +at the northern point; however, we were obliged to return the way we +came. There are, and have been since its occupation, several English +ladies living at Aden, but whether they have not shown themselves +sufficiently often to render their appearance familiar, or the +curiosity of the people is not easily satisfied, I cannot say; but I +found myself an object of great attention to the women and children. + +The sun having declined, the whole of the population of Aden seemed to +be abroad, and many well-dressed and good-looking women were seated on +the rude steps and broken walls of the stone houses before-mentioned. +As they saw me smiling upon them, they drew nearer, salaamed, and +laughed in return, and appeared to examine my dress as closely as +the open doors of the palanquin would permit. Some of the very little +children turned away in horror from a white face, but the greater +number seemed much pleased with the notice taken of them. While +waiting a few minutes for my party, my bearers wanted to drive them +away, but this I would not permit, and we carried on a very amicable +intercourse by signs, both being apparently mutually delighted +with each other. Their vivacity and good-humour made a favourable +impression upon my mind, and I should like to have an opportunity +of becoming better acquainted with them, feeling strongly tempted to +proceed to Aden on my return to England in a sailing vessel, and await +there the arrival of a steamer to convey me up the Red Sea to Cosseir +or to Suez. + +I was offered a present of a milch-goat at Aden, but not being able to +consult with the captain of the _Berenice_ concerning its introduction +on board, I did not like to allow the poor creature to run any risk +of neglect. Its productiveness would soon have diminished on board a +steamer, and it was so useful in a place like Aden, that I could not +feel justified in taking it away for my own gratification. I obtained, +however, a bottle of milk, and when I got on board, having dined +early, and being moreover exhausted with my journey, as I was only +recovering from an attack of fever, I wished to have some tea. This +was too great an indulgence to be granted by the petty authorities +who ruled over the passengers. Unfortunately, upon leaving Suez, I +had given away all my tea to my servant, Mohammed, who was fond of it, +nothing doubting that I should be able to procure as much as I pleased +on board the steamer. The refusal was the more provoking, as there was +plenty of boiling water ready, and I had humbly limited my request to +a spoonful of tea. Under the circumstances, I was obliged to content +myself with milk and water: had the captain or the surgeon of the +vessel been at hand, I should doubtless have been supplied with every +thing I wanted, but in their absence, it was impossible to procure a +single article. Upon one occasion, while tea was serving, a passenger +in the saloon asked for a cup, and was told to go upon deck for it. + +I also procured a supply of soda water at Aden. I had suffered much +from the want of this refreshing beverage during my fever, the supply +taken on board having been exhausted on the voyage up. The passengers +down the Red Sea have the disadvantage of sailing with exhausted +stores. It seems hardly fair to them, especially in cases of illness, +that the whole of any particular article should be given to the people +who embark at Bombay, they having a right to expect that, as they pay +the same price, a portion should be reserved for their use. + +On the second day after our departure from Aden--that is, the 22nd +of October--we arrived at Makallah. It was mid-day before the vessel +ceased to ply her engines, and though invited to go on shore, as +we could not penetrate beyond the walls of the town, we thought it +useless to exchange our cabins for a hot room in the mansion of its +ruler. The town of Makallah, which forms the principal commercial +depot of the south-west of Arabia, is built upon a rocky platform of +some length, but of very inconsiderable width, backed by a perfect +wall of cliffs, and bounded in front by the sea. It seems tolerably +well built for an Arabian town, many of the houses being of a very +respectable appearance, two or more stories in height, and ornamented +with small turrets and cupolas: the nakib, or governor's residence, is +large, with a high square tower, which gives it the air of a citadel. + +There is not a tree or shrub to be seen, the absence of vegetation +investing the place with a character of its own, and one that +harmonizes with the bold and bare rocks which bound the coast on +either side. We were told that, between two ranges of hills close to +the entrance of the town, a beautiful green valley occurred, watered +by delicious springs, and shaded by date-trees. Had we arrived at +an early period of the morning, we might have spent the day on this +delightful place, proceeding to it on the backs of camels or donkeys, +or even on foot; but it being impossible to get thither while the +sun was in full power, we were obliged to content ourselves with a +description of its beauties. + +Although a very good understanding exists between our Government and +that of Makallah, which has for some time been a depot of coal for the +use of the steamers, it is not advisable for visitors to proceed very +far from the town without protection. A midshipman belonging to the +Indian navy having gone on shore for the purpose of visiting the +valley before-mentioned, and straying away to some distance, attracted +by the beauty of the scenery, was suddenly surrounded by a party of +Bedouins, who robbed him of all he possessed, cutting off the buttons +from his clothes, under the idea that they were of gold--an impression +which obtains all over the coast, and which inspired the people who +made the last assault upon Aden with the hope of a rich booty. + +The population of Makallah is estimated at about 4,600 people, of +various tribes and countries, the chief portion being either of the +Beni Hassan and Yafai tribes, together with Banians, Kurachies, and +emigrants from nearly all parts of the adjacent coasts. It carries +on rather a considerable trade in gums, hides, and drugs, which, with +coffee, form the exports, receiving in return iron, lead, manufactured +cloths, earthenware, and rice, from Bombay, and all the productions of +the neighbouring countries, slaves included, in which the traffic is +said to be very great. + +The gentlemen who went on shore purchased very pretty and convenient +baskets, wrought in various colours, and also quantities of +sweetmeats, which are much in esteem in India; these are composed of +honey and flour, delicately made, the honey being converted into a +soft kind of paste, with a coating of the flour on the outside. +These sweetmeats were nicely packed in straw baskets, of a different +manufacture from those before-mentioned, and were very superior to +the common sort which is brought from the coast in small coarse +earthenware basins, exceedingly unattractive in their appearance. + +The interior of the country is said to be very beautiful, abundantly +watered by refreshing springs, and shaded by groves of date-trees. +Amongst its animal productions, the most beautiful is the gazelle, +which, properly speaking, is only to be found in Arabia; a delicate +and lovely creature, with the soft black eye which has been from time +immemorial the theme of poets. The gazelle is easily tamed, becoming +in a short time very familiar, and being much more gentle, as well as +more graceful, than the common antelope. Its movements are the most +airy and elegant imaginable. It is fond of describing a circle in +a succession of bounds, jumping off the ground on four legs, and +touching it lightly as it wheels round and round. At other times, it +pirouettes upon the two fore feet, springing round at the same time +like an opera-dancer; in fact, it would appear as if Taglioni, and all +our most celebrated _artistes_, had taken lessons from the gazelle, +so much do their _chefs-d'oeuvre_ resemble its graceful motions. +When domesticated, the gazelle loves to feed upon roses, delighting +apparently in the scent as well as the taste. It is the fashion in the +East to add perfume to the violet, and I found these gazelles would +eat with much zest roses that had been plentifully sprinkled with +their extract, the _goolabee paanee_, so greatly in request. The +gazelle is also very fond of crisply-toasted bread, a taste which must +be acquired in domestication. It is a courageous animal, and will come +readily to the assault, butting fiercely when attacked. In taking a +gazelle away from Arabia, it should be carefully guarded against cold +and damp, and if not provided with water-proof covering to its feet, +would soon die if exposed to the wet decks of a ship. + +We had lost at Aden our fellow-passenger, whom I have mentioned as +having assumed the Turkish dress for the purpose of penetrating +into the interior of Abyssinia. He depended, in a great measure, for +comfort and safety, upon two native priests, whom he had brought with +him from Cairo, and who, in return for his liberality, had promised +all the protection and assistance in their power. He left us with +the good wishes of all the party, and not without some fears in the +breasts of those who contemplated the hazards which he ran. Young and +good-looking, he had, with pardonable, but perhaps dangerous, vanity, +studied the becoming in his costume, which was composed of the very +finest materials. His long outer garment, of a delicate woollen +texture, was lined throughout with silk, and the crimson cap, which +he wore upon his head, was converted into a turban by a piece of gold +muslin wound round it. He expected nothing less than to be plundered +and stripped of this fine apparel, and it will be well for him should +he escape with life. The adventure and the romance of the undertaking +possessed great charms, and he talked, after spending some years in +a wild and wandering career, of sitting down quietly in his paternal +halls, introducing as many of the Egyptian customs as would be +tolerated in a Christian country. + +A short residence in Cairo proves very captivating to many Englishmen; +they like the independent sort of life which they lead; their perfect +freedom from all the thralls imposed by society at home, and, when +tired of dreaming away existence after the indolent fashion of +the East, plunge into the surrounding deserts, and enjoy all the +excitement attendant upon danger. Numerous anecdotes were related to +me of the hardships sustained by young English travellers, who, led by +the spirit of adventure, had trusted themselves to the Bedouins, and, +though escaping with life, had suffered very severely from hunger, +thirst, and fatigue. I have no reason to doubt the veracity of one of +these enterprising tourists, who assured me that he had passed through +the holy city of Mecca. According to his account, he had made friends +with an Arab boy, who offered to afford him a glimpse of the city, +provided he would consent to pass rapidly through it, at an early hour +in the morning. Accordingly, disguised in Mohamedan garb, and mounted +upon a camel, they entered and quitted it at opposite ends, without +exciting curiosity or remark. Of course, he could see nothing but the +exterior of the houses and mosques, only obtaining a partial view of +these; but, considering the difficulty and peril of the undertaking, +the pleasure of being able to say that he had succeeded in an +achievement which few would be daring enough to attempt, was worth +running some risks. + +Notwithstanding the intolerant spirit generally manifested by the +Arabs, those English strangers who embrace their way of life for a +time frequently attach them very strongly to their persons, obtaining +concessions from them which could scarcely be expected from a +people so bigoted in their religious opinions, and entertaining so +contemptible an opinion of those who are followers of other creeds. In +spite of the faults of his character--for he is frequently deceitful, +treacherous, cruel, and covetous--the Arab of the desert is usually +much respected by the dwellers in towns. His independent spirit +is admired by those who could not exist without the comforts and +conveniences of life, which he disdains. It is no uncommon sight, +either at Cairo or Alexandria, to see a handsome young Bedouin, +splendidly attired, lodging in the open street by the side of his +camel, for nothing will persuade him to sleep in a house; he +carries the habits of the desert into the city, and in the midst of +congregated thousands, dwells apart. + +We, who merely crossed the desert from Cairo to Suez, could form +little idea of the pleasures which a longer sojourn and more extended +researches would afford--the poetry of the life which the Arab leads. +Nothing, I was told, could exceed the enjoyments of the night, when, +after a day of burning heat, the cool breezes came down from elevated +valleys, occurring between the ranges of hills which I had observed +with so much interest. This balmy air brings with it perfumes wafted +from sweet-scented flowers, which spring spontaneously in the green +spots known to the gazelle, who repairs to them to drink. Although +the dews are heavy, the Arab requires no more protection than that +afforded by his blanket, and he lies down under the most glorious +canopy, the broad vault of heaven with its countless spangles, no +artificial object intervening throughout the large circle of that wide +horizon. Here, his ablutions, prayers, and evening-meal concluded, +he either sinks into profound repose, or listens to the tales of +his companions, of daring deeds and battles long ago, or the equally +interesting though less exciting narratives of passing events; some +love-story between persons of hostile tribes, or the affection of a +betrothed girl for a stranger, and its melancholy consequences. + +Notwithstanding the slight estimation in which the sex is held by the +fierce and jealous Arab--jealous more from self-love than from any +regard to the object that creates this feeling--there is still much of +the romantic to be found in his domestic history. English travellers, +who have acquired a competent knowledge of the language, may collect +materials for poems as tragical and touching as those which Lord Byron +loved to weave. I could relate several in this place, picked up by my +fellow-travellers, but as they may at some period or other desire +to give them to the public themselves, it would be scarcely fair to +anticipate their intention. + +We now began to look out with some anxiety for the arrival of the +steamer at Bombay, speculating upon the chances of finding friends +able to receive us. As we drew nearer and nearer, the recollection of +the good hotels which had opened their hospitable doors for us in +the most unpromising places, caused us to lament over the absence of +similar establishments at the scene of our destination. Bombay has +been aptly denominated the landing-place of India; numbers of persons +who have no acquaintance upon the island pass through it on their way +to Bengal, or to the provinces, and if arriving by the Red Sea, are +totally unprovided with the means of making themselves comfortable in +the tents that may be hired upon their landing. + +A tent, to a stranger in India, appears to be the most forlorn +residence imaginable, and many cannot be reconciled to it, even +after long custom. To those, however, who do not succeed in obtaining +invitations to private houses, a tent is the only resource. It seems +scarcely possible that the number of persons, who are obliged to +live under canvas on the Esplanade, would not prefer apartments at a +respectable hotel, if one should be erected for the purpose; yet it +is said that such an establishment would not answer. Bombay can never +obtain the pre-eminence over Calcutta, which it is so anxious to +accomplish, until it will provide the accommodation for visitors which +the City of Palaces has afforded during several years past. However +agreeable the overland journey may be, it cannot be performed without +considerable fatigue. + +The voyage down the Red Sea, in warm weather especially, occasions +a strong desire for rest; even those persons, therefore, who are so +fortunate as to be carried off to friends' houses, immediately upon +their arrival, would much prefer the comfort and seclusion of a +hotel, for the first day or two at least. The idea of going amongst +strangers, travel-soiled and travel-worn, is anything but agreeable, +more particularly with the consciousness that a week's baths will +scarcely suffice to remove the coal-dust collected in the steamers of +the Red Sea: for my own part, I contemplated with almost equal alarm +the prospect of presenting myself immediately upon the termination of +my voyage, or of being left, on the charge of eight rupees _per diem_, +to the tender mercies of the vessel. + +We entered the harbour of Bombay in the evening of the 29th of +October, too late to contemplate the beauty of its scenery, there +being unfortunately no moon. As soon as we dropped anchor, a scene of +bustle and excitement took place. The boxes containing the mails were +all brought upon deck, the vessel was surrounded with boats, and the +first news that greeted our ears--news that was communicated with +great glee--was the damage done by fire to the _Atalanta_ steamer. +This open manifestation, by the officers of the Indian navy, of +dislike to a service to which they belong, is, to say the least of it, +ill-judged. A rapid increase in the number of armed steam-vessels may +be calculated upon, while the destruction of half of those at present +employed would scarcely retard the progress of this mighty power--a +power which may alter the destinies of half the world. The hostility, +therefore, of persons who cannot hope by their united opposition to +effect the slightest change in the system, becomes contemptible. + +It is a wise proverb which recommends us not to show our teeth unless +we can bite. To expose the defects of steamers, may produce their +remedy; but to denounce them altogether, is equally useless and +unwise, since, however inconvenient they may be, no person, with +whom despatch is an object, will hesitate to prefer them to a +sailing-vessel; while every officer, who takes the Queen's or the +Company's pay, should consider it to be his duty to uphold the service +which tends to promote the interests of his country. + + + + +CHAPTER IX. + + * * * * * + +BOMBAY. + + * * * * * + + Contrast between landing at Bombay and at Calcutta--First feelings + those of disappointment--Aspect of the place improves--Scenery of the + Island magnificent, abounding with fine Landscapes--Luxuriance and + elegance of the Palms--Profusion and contrast of the Trees--Multitude + of large Houses in Gardens--Squalid, dirty appearance of the + Native Crowd--Costume of the Natives--Inferior to the Costume of + Bengal--Countenances not so handsome--The Drive to the Fort--The + Burrah Bazaar--Parsee Houses--"God-shops" of the Jains--General use + of Chairs amongst the Natives--Interior of the Native Houses--The + Sailors' Home--The Native Town--Improvements--The Streets animated + and picturesque--Number of Vehicles--The Native Females--The Parsee + Women--The Esplanade--Tents and Bungalows--The Fort--The China + Bazaar--A Native School--Visit to a Parsee Warehouse--Seal ornamental + China-ware--Apprehension of Fire in the Fort--Houses fired by + Rats--Illumination of Native Houses--Discordant noise of Native + Magic--The great variety of Religions in Bombay productive of + lamp-lighting and drumming. + + +The bunder, or pier, where passengers disembark upon their arrival in +Bombay, though well-built and convenient, offers a strong contrast +to the splendours of Chandpaul Ghaut in Calcutta; neither are the +bunder-boats at all equal in elegance to the budgerows, bohlias, and +other small craft, which we find upon the Hooghley. There is nothing +to indicate the wealth or the importance of the presidency to be +seen at a glance; the Scottish church, a white-washed building of no +pretensions, being the most striking object from the sea. Landward, a +range of handsome houses flank so dense a mass of buildings, occupying +the interior of the Fort, as to make the whole appear more like a +fortified town than a place of arms, as the name would denote. The +tower of the cathedral, rising in the centre, is the only feature in +the scene which boasts any architectural charm; and the Esplanade, +a wide plain, stretching from the ramparts to the sea, is totally +destitute of picturesque beauty. + +The first feelings, therefore, are those of disappointment, and it +is not until the eye has been accustomed to the view, that it becomes +pleased with many of the details; the interest increasing with the +development of other and more agreeable features, either not seen at +all, or seen through an unfavourable medium. The aspect of the place +improved, as, after crossing the Esplanade or plain, the carriage +drove along roads cut through palm-tree woods, and at length, when I +reached my place of destination, I thought that I had never seen any +thing half so beautiful. + +The apartments which, through the kindness of hospitable friends, I +called my own, commanded an infinite variety of the most magnificent +scenery imaginable. To the left, through a wide vista between two +hills, which seemed cleft for the purpose of admitting the view, lay +the placid waters of the ocean, land-locked, as it were, by the +bold bluff of distant islands, and dotted by a fairy fleet of +fishing-boats, with their white sails glittering in the sun. In front, +over a beautifully-planted fore-ground, I looked down upon a perfect +sea of palms, the taller palmyras lifting their proud heads above the +rest, and all so intermingled with other foliage, as to produce the +richest variety of hues. This fine wood, a spur of what may be termed +a forest further to the right, skirted a broad plain which stretched +out to the beach, the bright waters beyond expanding and melting +into the horizon, while to the right it was bounded by a hilly ridge +feathered with palm-trees, the whole bathed in sunshine, and forming +altogether a perfect Paradise. + +Every period of the day, and every variation in the state of the +atmosphere, serve to bring out new beauties in this enchanting scene; +and the freshness and delicious balm of the morning, the gorgeous +splendour of mid-day, the crimson and amber pomps of evening, and the +pale moonlight, tipping every palm-tree top with silver, produce an +endless succession of magical effects. In walking about the garden and +grounds of this delightful residence, we are continually finding +some new point from which the view appears to be more beautiful than +before. Upon arriving at the verge of the cleft between the two hills, +we look down from a considerable elevation over rocky precipitous +ground, with a village (Mazagong) skirting the beach, while the +prospect, widening, shows the whole of the harbour, with the high +ghauts forming the back-ground. + +Turning to the other side, behind the hill which shuts out the sea, +the landscape is of the richest description--roads winding through +thick plantations, houses peeping from embowering trees, and an +umbrageous forest beyond. The whole of Bombay abounds with landscapes +which, if not equal to that from Chintapooglee Hill, which I have, +vainly I fear, attempted to describe, boast beauties peculiarly their +own, the distinguishing feature being the palm-tree. It is impossible +to imagine the luxuriance and elegance of this truly regal family as +it grows in Bombay, each separate stage, from the first appearance +of the different species, tufting the earth with those stately crowns +which afterwards shoot up so grandly, being marked with beauty. The +variety of the foliage of the coco-nut, the brab, and others, +the manner of their growth, differing according to the different +directions taken, and the exquisite grouping which continually occurs, +prevent the monotony which their profusion might otherwise create, +the general effect being, under all circumstances, absolutely perfect. +Though the principal, the palm is far from being the only tree, and +while frequently forming whole groves, it is as frequently blended +with two species of cypress, the peepul, mango, banian, wild cinnamon, +and several others. + +In addition to the splendour of its wood and water, Bombay is +embellished by fragments of dark rock, which force themselves through +the soil, roughening the sides of the hills, and giving beauty to +the precipitous heights and shelving beach. Though the island is +comparatively small, extensively cultivated and thickly inhabited, +it possesses its wild and solitary places, its rains deeply seated +in thick forests, and its lonely hills covered with rock, and thinly +wooded by the eternal palm-tree; hills which, in consequence of +the broken nature of the ground, and their cavernous recesses, are +difficult of access. It is in these fastnesses that the hyenas find +secure retreats, and the Parsees construct their "towers of silence." + +There is little, or indeed nothing, in the scenery that comes under +the denomination of jungle, the island being intersected in every +part with excellent roads, macadamized with the stone that abounds +so conveniently for the purpose. These roads are sometimes skirted by +walls of dark stone, which harmonize well with the trees that +never fail to spread their shade above; at others, with beautiful +hedge-rows, while across the flats and along the Esplanade, a +water-course or a paling forms the enclosures. + +The multitude of large houses, each situated in the midst of gardens +or ornamented grounds, gives a very cheerful appearance to the roads +of Bombay; but what the stranger on his first arrival in India is +said to be most struck with is, the number and beauty of the +native population. Probably, had I never seen Bengal, I might +have experienced similar delight and astonishment; but with the +recollections of Calcutta fresh in my mind, I felt disappointed. + +Accustomed to multitudes of fine-looking well-dressed people, with +their ample and elegant drapery of spotless white muslin, I could not +help contrasting them with the squalid, dirty appearance of the +native crowd of Bombay. Nor is it so easy at first to distinguish the +varieties of the costume through the one grand characteristic of dirt; +nor, with the exception of the peculiar Parsee turban, which is very +ugly, the Persian cap, and the wild garb of the Arab, do they differ +so widely as I expected. For instance; the Hindus and Mohamedans are +not so easily recognized as in Bengal. The vest in ordinary wear, +instead of being fitted tightly to the figure, and having that +peculiarly elegant cut which renders it so graceful, seems nothing +more than a loose bed-gown, coarse in materials and tasteless in +shape: this forms the most common costume. The higher classes of +Parsees wear an ample and not unbecoming dress; the upper garment +of white cambric muslin fits tightly to the waist, where it is bound +round with a sash or cummurbund of white muslin; it then descends in +an exceedingly full skirt to the feet, covering a pair of handsome +silk trowsers. A Parsee group, thus attired, in despite of their mean +and unbecoming head-dress, make a good appearance. + +The Arabs wear handkerchiefs or shawls, striped with red, yellow, and +blue, bound round their heads, or hanging in a fanciful manner over +their turbans. The Persian dress is grave and handsome, and there +are, besides, Nubians, Chinese, and many others; but the well-dressed +people must be looked for in the carriages, few of the same +description are to be seen on foot, which gives to a crowd in Bengal +so striking an appearance. In fact, a Bengallee may be recognized at +a glance by his superior costume, and in no place is the contrast more +remarkable than in the halls and entrances of Anglo-Indian houses. The +servants, if not in livery--and it is difficult to get them to +wear one, the dignity of caste interfering--are almost invariably +ill-dressed and slovenly in their appearance. We see none of the +beautifully plaited and unsullied white turbans; none of the fine +muslin dresses and well-folded cummurbunds; the garments being +coarse, dirty, scanty, and not put on to advantage. Neither are the +countenances so handsome or the forms so fine; for though a very +considerable degree of beauty is to be found of person and feature +amid many classes of Parsees, Jews, Hindus, and Mohamedans, it is not +so general as in Bengal, where the features are usually so finely cut, +and the eyes so splendid. + +Nevertheless, although my admiration has never been so strongly +excited, and I was in the first instance greatly disappointed, every +time I go abroad I become more reconciled to this change, and more +gratified by the various objects which attract my attention; and there +are few things that please me more than a drive to the Fort. + +It is very difficult, perhaps impossible, to convey any idea of +the lively scene which is presented in this excursion, or the great +variety of features which it embraces. Enclosures sprinkled over with +palm-trees, and filled with a herd of buffaloes, occur close to a +farm-house, which looks absolutely English; then we come to a +cluster of huts of the most miserable description, occupying some low +situation, placed absolutely on the ground, and scantily thatched with +palm branches; stately mansions now arise to view, and then there is +a row of small but apparently comfortable dwellings, habitations being +thickly scattered over fields and gardens, until we reach what has +been denominated the Black Town, but which is now generally known as +the Burrah Bazaar. This is now a broad street, and, without exception, +one of the most curious places I have ever beheld. It is said to have +been much improved during late administrations, and, forming the high +road to the Fort, is the avenue most frequented in the native town +by Europeans. The buildings on either side are very irregular, and of +various descriptions; some consist of ranges of small shops, with +a story above in a very dilapidated and tumble-down condition. Then +comes a row of large mansions of three floors, which look very much +like the toy baby-houses constructed for children in England, the +windows being so close together, and the interiors so public; +others intervene, larger, more solid, and irregular, but exceedingly +picturesque. + +Most of the better kind of houses are ascended by a flight of +steps, which leads to a sort of verandah, formed by the floor above +projecting over it, and being supported by wooden pillars or other +frame-work in front. In the Parsee houses of this kind, there is +usually a niche in this lower portion for a lamp, which is kept always +burning. In some places, the houses are enclosed in courtyards, and +at others a range of dwellings, not very unlike the alms-houses in +England, are divided from the road by a low wall, placed a few yards +in the front, and entered at either end by gateways. These houses have +a very comfortable appearance, and the shading of a few palm-trees +completes a rather pretty picture. There are two mosques, one on +either side of this street, which are handsomely constructed, and +would be great embellishments to the scene, were they not so painfully +whiter-washed. + +A peculiar class of Hindus, the Jains, have also what have not been +inappropriately termed "god-shops," for they certainly have not the +slightest appearance of temples. These pagodas, if they may be so +styled, are nothing more than large houses, of three floors, with +balconies running in front, the heavy wooden frame-work that supports +them being painted a dark dingy red, and the walk adorned with +representations of deities, executed in a variety of colours, and of +the most nondescript character. The interiors appear to be decorated +in the same manner, as they are seen through the open windows and by +the light of many lamps suspended from the ceilings. The ringing +of bells, and the full attendance of priests and worshippers of an +evening, show the purpose to which these houses are dedicated, and +superstition is here exhibited in its most revolting aspect, for there +is no illusion to cheat the fancy--no beautiful sequestered pagoda, +with its shadowing trees and flower-strewed courts, to excite poetical +ideas--all being coarse, vulgar, and contemptible. + +Great numbers of artizans are to be seen at work in their respective +shops in this bazaar, copper-smiths particularly, who seem an +industrious race, toiling by lamp-light long after the day has +completely closed. There are also _caravanserais_ and _cafes_, where +the country and religion of the owner may be known by the guests +congregated about his gate. Groups of Persians are seen seated on the +outside smoking; the beautiful cats, which they have brought down +for sale, sporting at their feet. A few yards farther on, the Arab +horse-dealers, in front of their stables, are equally conspicuous, and +it is easy to perceive, by the eager glances with which some of these +men survey the English carriages bearing fair freights of ladies +along, that they have never visited an European settlement before. + +My former visit to India enabling me to observe the differences +between two of our presidencies, I was particularly struck, on my +arrival at Bombay, with the general use of chairs among the natives; +none but the very meanest description of houses seem to be entirely +destitute of an article of furniture scarcely known in the native +habitations of Bengal; and these seats seem to be preferred to +the more primitive method of squatting on the ground, which +still prevails, the number of chairs in each mansion being rather +circumscribed, excepting in the best houses, where they abound. Sofas +and divans, though seen, are not so common as in Egypt, and perhaps +the divan, properly speaking, is not very usual. + +The cheapness of oil, and in all probability the example shown by the +Parsees, render lamps very abundant. The common kind of hall-lamp of +England, of different sizes and different colours, is the prevailing +article; these are supplied with a tumbler half-filled with water, +having a layer of oil upon the top, and two cotton-wicks. As I lose +no opportunity whatever of looking into the interiors of the native +houses, I have been often surprised to see one of these lamps +suspended in a very mean apartment of a cottage, boasting few other +articles of furniture, which, nevertheless, in consequence of its +cleanliness, and the excellence of the light afforded, possessed +an air of comfort. In fact, many of the houses, whose exteriors are +anything but promising, are very well fitted up in the inside; many +of the apartments are panelled with wood, handsomely carved, and have +ceilings and floors of the same, either painted of a dark colour, or +highly polished. In the evening, the windows being all open, and the +lamps lighted, a foil view may be obtained of these apartments. + +Many of the houses appear to be kept entirely for show, since in +all my peregrinations I have never seen any human being in the upper +chambers, although illuminated every night. In others, there can be +no doubt concerning the fact of their having inhabitants, since the +owners do not scruple to go to bed with the windows open and the lamps +burning, not disturbed in their repose by the certainty of being seen +by every passer-by, or by the noise and bustle of the street. + +The bazaar ends at the commencement of the Esplanade, in a large +building, wooden-fronted, of a circular form, and not unhandsome, +which is decorated with a flag upon the roof, and is called "The +Sailors' Home." Its verandahs and open windows often display our +jovial tars enjoying themselves in an asylum which, though evil has +been spoken against it, is said to be well-conducted, and to prevent a +very thoughtless class of persons from falling into worse hands. + +The native town extends considerably on either side of the principal +avenue, one road leading through the coco-nut gardens, presenting a +great variety of very interesting features; that to the left is more +densely crowded, there being a large and well-frequented cloth bazaar, +besides a vast number of shops and native houses, apparently of +considerable importance. Here the indications shown of wealth and +industry are exceedingly gratifying to an eye delighting in the sight +of a happy and flourishing population. There are considerable spaces +of ground between these leading thoroughfares, which, by occasional +peeps down intersecting lanes, seem to be covered with a huddled +confusion of buildings, and, until the improvements which have +recently taken place, the whole of the town seems to have been nearly +in the same state. + +The processes of widening, draining, pulling down, and rebuilding, +appear to have been carried on very extensively; and though much, +perhaps, remains to be done in the back settlements, where buffaloes +may be seen wading through the stagnant pools, the eye is seldom +offended, or the other senses disagreeably assailed, in passing +through this populous district. The season is, however, so favourable, +the heat being tempered by cool airs, which render the sunshine +endurable, that Bombay, under its present aspect, may be very +different from the Bombay of the rains or of the very hot weather. The +continual palm-trees, which, shooting up in all directions, add grace +and beauty to every scene, must form terrible receptacles for malaria; +the fog and mist are said to cling to their branches and hang round +them like a cloud, when dispersed by sun or wind elsewhere; the very +idea suggesting fever and ague. + +Though, as I have before remarked, the contrast between the muslined +millions of Bengal and the less tastefully clad populace of Bombay is +unfavourable, still the crowds that fill the streets here are animated +and picturesque. There is a great display of the liveliest colours, +the turbans being frequently of the brightest of yellows, crimsons, or +greens. + +The number of vehicles employed is quite extraordinary, those of the +merely respectable classes being chiefly bullock-carts; these are of +various descriptions, the greater number being of an oblong square, +and furnished with seats across (after the fashion of our taxed +carts), in which twelve persons, including women and children, are +frequently accommodated. It is most amusing to see the quantity of +heads squeezed close together in a vehicle of this kind, and the +various contrivances resorted to in order to accommodate a more than +sufficient number of personages in other conveyances, not so well +calculated to hold them. Four in a buggy is a common complement, and +six or nine persons will cram themselves into so small a space, that +you wonder how the vehicle can possibly contain the bodies of all the +heads seen looking out of it. The carts are chiefly open, but there +are a few covered _rhuts_, the conveyances probably of rich Hindu or +Mohamedan ladies, who do not content themselves, like the Parsees, +with merely covering their heads with the veil. + +Young Parsee women of the better class are frequently to be seen in +carriages with their male relations, nor do they object to appear +publicly in the streets following wedding processions. They are the +only well-dressed or nice-looking women who drive or walk about the +streets or roads. The lower classes of females in Bombay are the most +unprepossessing people I ever saw. In Bengal, the _saree_, though +rather too scanty, is a graceful costume, and at a little distance +appears to be a modest covering. Here it is worn very differently, and +without the slightest attempt at delicacy or grace, the drapery being +in itself insufficient, and rendered more offensive by the method of +its arrangement. + +The Parsee women are, generally speaking, of fair complexions, with +small features, and a very sweet expression of countenance; many +of them are exceedingly pretty, and they all dress gracefully and +becomingly. Very respectable females of this class are to be seen +walking about, showing by their conduct that propriety of behaviour +does not consist in seclusion, or the concealment of the face. + +There is an innate delicacy and refinement about Parsee women which +commands respect, and their value is known and acknowledged by +their male relatives, who treat them with a degree of deference and +consideration which is highly creditable to both parties. Though the +men are found in service in every European family, they do not allow +their wives and daughters to become domestics to foreigners, and they +are only permitted to become servants to their own people. The higher +classes of natives have adopted European equipages, and are the owners +of the handsomest carriages and horses in Bombay. Chariots, barouches, +britschkas, and buggies, appear in great numbers, filled with +Mohamedan, Hindu, or Parsee gentlemen. The less fashionable use the +palanquin carriage, common in Bengal, but which at this place is +called a _shigram_; these are often crammed full of servants and +children. + +Upon emerging from the bazaar, we enter upon the wide plain called the +Esplanade. To the left, across an extensive parade-ground, appears the +Fort, which is seen to the best advantage from this point; the walls +are low, and afford an ample view of a range of three-storied houses, +having verandahs all the way up, called Rampart Row, and from which +one or two very splendid mansions stand out conspicuously. To the +right, there is a whole encampment of tents, these canvas dwellings +being the sole refuge for the destitute. They may be hired in any +number and of every degree of elegance, none, however, quite reaching +to the refinements of Bengal, or being supplied with glass doors and +windows. Beyond the tents, and quite close to the beach, is the +space allotted for the temporary bungalows erected during the cold +season--singular places, which will be more fully described under the +head of Anglo-Indian residences. In front, and close to the warf or +bunder, are immense irregular piles of cotton in bales, which at a +distance appear like fortifications, and upon a nearer approach assume +somewhat of a picturesque air. + +The Fort is surrounded on the land-side with a moat, and is entered +through some very shabby gateways. The interior of this extensive work +presents a busy, bustling scene; its numerous houses being arranged +with some degree of regularity in streets and open places. Those +who content themselves, however, with driving through the European +portion, will have very little idea of the true character of the +place. Rampart Row--the avenues leading into a large open space, in +which stand the cathedral, the town-hall, the mint, a cavalry +barrack, &c.--and the immediate environs, are composed of lofty, +well-constructed houses, some standing a little apart in courtyards, +and others with a narrow platform in front, ascended by steps, and +roofed by the story above. This, as I have previously stated, is the +general method of building in Bombay. These streets have somewhat of +an European, though not an English, air, but are for the most part +tenanted by natives, who may be seen at the windows of every floor, +and who apparently are better lodged, at least according to our idea, +than the same class in Calcutta. In this part of the Fort there +are several shops, or rather warehouses, for the sale of European +goods--dingy places, having a melancholy assortment of faded articles +in dim glass cases, freshness and variety in the merchandize depending +upon shipping arrivals. + +Earthenware, glass, and cutlery, are abundant; but, altogether, there +is nothing at present to compare with the first-rate establishments of +Calcutta--such as Tulloh's, for instance--the whole style being dirty +and slovenly. A very civil native, named Muncherjee, who calls +himself a milliner, has, I am informed, very frequently well-chosen +investments to dispose of, but upon my visits I have seen nothing +wearable in the shape of bonnets and caps. An English milliner resides +in his neighbourhood, who possesses both skill and taste, and makes +up her silks and gauzes after the best French models; but necessarily, +perhaps, the purchases made at her rooms are rather expensive. + +There is quite enough of bustle and animation in this quarter of the +Fort to engage the attention, but it seems silent and deserted when +compared with the crowd of the more exclusively native portions. +Here the streets literally swarm with life--men, women, children, and +bullocks, filling them almost to suffocation. Ranges of open shops +appear on each side, raised a foot or two from the ground, the +occupant being seated upon a ledge in front, in the midst of +his wares. Here, too, immense quantities of English glass and +crockery-ware are exhibited, which may be purchased at a much cheaper +rate than in shops styled, _par distinction_, European. + +One or two opportunities offering for a visit to what is called the +China Bazaar, I gladly availed myself of them, and was much amused, +as the carriage made its slow way through the multitudes that thronged +the streets, to observe the employments of the people, buying, +selling, manufacturing their goods, or, for want of something else to +do, dragging little children in carts, which, by some contrivance, ran +back across the floor of the narrow apartment, and were then impelled +forward again by means of a string. This I found to be a favourite +occupation, and I never in any place saw more fondness manifested +towards children by their parents than in Bombay, or a greater desire +to associate them in all their amusements. At length, the carriage +stopped at a gateway, and upon alighting, I found myself in the midst +of a crowd of little children--an infant school, in fact, composed +indiscriminately of boys and girls. They were, generally speaking, +very pretty, and all well-dressed, many being adorned with very +handsome jewels. + +The pedagogue--a Parsee, and rather a young man--with the barbarity +common to his class, was in the act of inflicting corporal punishment +upon a poor little creature, whom he beat upon the feet (ornamented, +by the way, with rich anclets) with a rod of split bamboo. I commanded +him to forbear, but speaking half in English and half in Hindustanee, +made myself better understood by look and gesture than by words. The +unhappy infant seemed to know that I interfered in its behalf, for +it gazed upon me with a piteous but grateful expression; it could not +have been more than three years old, and was really very pretty +and interesting in its tears. It was evidently the child of wealthy +parents, being dressed in a silk shirt embroidered and trimmed with +silver, a cap of the same upon its head, and numerous jewels besides. +The whole of the Lilliputian assembly uttered their lesson as I +passed, all raising their voices at the same time, and rendering it, I +imagine, rather difficult to determine whether each pupil repeated his +or her part correctly. + +I would fain have lingered for a few minutes, but my attendants +officiously showing the way, I walked across a paved yard and up two +flights of steps to the shop of which I came in search, which was kept +by a good-looking Parsee. The trade of this person was designated +as that of a _bottlee wallah_, which being literally rendered means +'bottle-fellow,' but, according to a more free translation, a dealer +in glass, lamps, candlesticks, preserved meats in tin-cases, &c. &c. +I found a vast stock of the articles most in request in Indian +housekeeping, such as wall-shades, and all descriptions of earthen and +hard-ware, all of which he sold at very moderate prices, but having +executed the part of my commission which related to candlesticks, I +was unable to find the more _recherche_ articles of which I came in +quest. + +I had been told that a great variety of ornamental china, the real +product of the Celestial Empire, was to be seen in the native shops +in Bombay. Though showy in appearance, this sort of china is of little +value, except to mark how much the manufacture has degenerated since +Europeans have learned to make their own teacups. I wished to obtain +a few specimens, but could not succeed. My friend, the bottlee wallah, +though very civil, could not afford me the information I required, +nor have I yet been able to obtain it. I have seen some handsome jars, +plates such as are used in England for the deposit of visitors' cards, +&c., which were purchased for a few annas, and have been told that +I might procure any quantity I pleased, but the where is still a +mystery. + +All the information obtainable in Bombay must be fished out in an +extraordinary manner, both natives and Europeans seeming to make it a +rule never to commit themselves by a direct reply to any question; +in every single instance, up to the present time, I have always, upon +making an inquiry, been referred to somebody else. Neither do I +find the same zeal manifested in the servants, which amounts to +officiousness on the other side of India. I have sent them to purchase +the china, but can get nothing but rubbish, knowing all the while that +there are plenty of a better description to be had. + +Upon my return, the bottlee wallah accompanied me to the carriage in +waiting, and as I paused to notice some of the children in the school, +introduced me to a group of his own sons and daughters, well decked +out in jewels, and otherwise richly dressed. The instruction given at +these schools I understood to be merely oral, the repetition of a few +verses, intended rather to pass away the time and keep the children +out of mischief, than as a foundation of more useful studies. I +hope that the system will be improved, for the pupils seemed to be +extremely intelligent, and capable of better things. + +Returning home, I passed several shops, in which the artizans of a +very beautiful manufacture, peculiar to Bombay, were at work. Desks, +dressing-cases, work-boxes, card-cases, ink-stands, and a variety of +other ornamental fancy articles, are made of sandal-wood, covered and +inlaid with ivory, ebony, and a material resembling silver. They copy +the best patterns, and produce exceedingly elegant appendages for +the drawing or dressing-room tables. A desk, handsomely fitted up and +lined with velvet, is sold for seven or eight pounds; large ink-stands +and blotting books for twenty rupees, and card-cases for six or eight. + +It is impossible, while perambulating the Fort of Bombay, to avoid +a feeling of apprehension concerning a catastrophe, which sooner or +later seems certain to happen, and which nothing short of a miracle +appears to prevent from taking place every night; I mean the +destruction of the whole by fire. All the houses are constructed of +the most combustible materials, and the greater number belonging to +the native quarter are thatched. Though contrary to law, many of the +warehouses contain gunpowder, while the immense quantity of oil +and spirits stored up in them would render a conflagration, once +commenced, most fearful. Few or no precautions seem to be taken by the +natives against fire. There are lights burning in every room of every +house, fires are continually made outside, whence a single spark +might set the whole in flames; and added to these dangers, are the +prejudices of the great number of the inhabitants, whose religious +feelings would prevent them from making the slightest endeavour to +stay the progress of the element which they worship. Nor would the +destruction of property be the sole danger. It is terrible to think +of the fearful risk of life in a place in which escape would be so +difficult. The gates of the Fort are few in number, and of narrow +dimensions; a new one is now constructing, probably with some view +to an emergence of the kind. The natives, upon the occasion of its +proposal, evinced their readiness to assist in the execution of a plan +so advantageous to the place of their abode, and immediately advanced +half the sum which this necessary improvement would cost--namely, +thirty thousand rupees--which were subscribed and paid into the +treasury in the course of a week. + +In 1803 or 1804, a very destructive conflagration actually took place +in the Fort of Bombay, and upon that occasion, in order to save the +castle, which did then, and does now, contain an immense quantity of +gunpowder, the authorities were obliged to bring out cannon to batter +down the surrounding houses, for the purpose of arresting the progress +of the flames. When the place was rebuilt, many salutary regulations +were made to prevent the recurrence of so great a calamity, and could +all the plans of Government have been accomplished, the danger which +now threatens Bombay would have been very considerably lessened; but +it was found impossible to carry out all the objects contemplated, +in consequence of the great value of the property which they would +affect. + +The land within the walls of the Fort has become in a great measure +private property, and the convenience of its contiguity to the harbour +is so great, and the natives entertain so strong an idea of security +in a residence in a fortified place, however disqualified to resist +a hostile force, that nothing would prevail upon them to relinquish +their houses. The higher classes are well aware of the hazards they +incur, but, like the dwellers in the neighbourhood of a volcano, are +unwilling to quit a place endeared to them by long residence, though +they know not the hour in which they may be buried beneath its smoking +ruins. There are only a few Europeans who continue to inhabit the +Fort, but it must contain a very considerable portion of the property +of those merchants who have their offices and warehouses within its +walls. The British authorities have taken all the precautions in +their power, the fire-engines have been placed in a state of greater +efficiency than heretofore, while, should an extensive fire take +place, everything that European strength and skill could accomplish +would be attempted. + +Amongst the various accidents to which houses in Bombay are subjected, +the one to be most apprehended, that of fire, is often brought about +by rats. They will carry off a lighted candle at every convenient +opportunity, setting fire to dwellings by this means. They have been +also known to upset tumblers containing oil, which is thus spread +abroad and likely to be ignited by the falling wick. It is, perhaps, +impossible totally to exterminate this race of vermin, which in the +Fort set cats completely at defiance, but something might be done to +keep the population down. I have been told that there are places in +the more crowded portion rendered perfectly impassable at night in +consequence of the effluvia arising from the immense quantities of +musk rats, which, together with the common sort, and bandicoots of an +incredible size, abound, the narrow close lanes being apparently +built for the purpose of affording accommodation to vermin of every +description. Nevertheless, some of the native houses of the Fort would +form very agreeable residences to persons accustomed to the utmost +refinement. Being exceedingly lofty, the upper apartments have the +advantage of every breeze that blows, while the views both of sea and +land are splendid. + +The immense size of these houses, and the elegance of their +decorations, evince the spirit and wealth of their owners; they become +absolutely beacons at night, in consequence of the frequency and the +extent of their illuminations. Numerous are the occasions, either of +holidays or other rejoicings, in which the natives of Bombay light +up their houses; rows of lamps hung along the wide fronts of the +verandahs, upon every floor, produce a good effect, which is often +heightened by the flood of light poured out of apartments decorated +with chandeliers and lamps of every description. + +In passing through the bazaar at night, every third or fourth house +is lit up upon some festive occasion; one favourite and very pretty +method consists of a number of small lamps, arranged to resemble +bunches of grapes, and hung up in the trees of a court-yard. Sometimes +in the evening, a sort of market is held in the native town beyond +the Esplanade, and every stall is profusely lighted; the hawkers, +who carry about their goods in a more humble way upon their heads in +baskets, have them stuck with candles, and the wild shadowy effects +produced, amid the quaint buildings thus partially lighted, afford a +continual phantasmagoria. + +They must be destitute of imagination, indeed, who cannot find +pleasure in the contemplation of the night-scenes of Bombay, either +from its native crowds, or the delicious solitudes of its sylvan +shades. The ear is the only organ absolutely unblest in this sunny +island, the noises being incessant, and most discordant; the shrieking +of jackals by night is music compared to that from native instruments, +which, in the most remote places, are continually striking up: +the drums, trumpets, bells, and squeaking pipes, of a neighbouring +village, are now inflicting their torments upon my distracted brain +in the most barbarous manner possible. The exertions of the performers +never appear to relax, and by night or day, it is all the same; they +make themselves heard at any distance, parading along the roads for +the sole purpose, it should seem, of annoying the more peaceable +inhabitants. Certainly, the sister arts of music and painting have +yet to make their way in India, the taste for both being at present +perfectly barbarous. + +The European bands, when playing on the Esplanade, attract a very +considerable number of natives; but whether congregated for the +purpose of listening to the music, or merely for the sake of +passing the time, seems very doubtful. A few, certainly, manifest +a predilection for "concord of sweet sounds," and no difficulty is +experienced by band-masters in recruiting their forces from natives, +the boys learning readily, and acquitting themselves very well +upon instruments foreign to the country. There is, however, no +manifestation at present of the spread of a refined taste, and many +years will probably elapse before any thing like good music will be +common in this part of Asia. + +The great variety of religions extant in Bombay, each being +distinguished by numerous festivals, all celebrated in the same +manner--that is, by noise and illuminations--sufficiently accounts +for the perpetual recurrence of lamp-lighting and drumming in all +directions. Every week brings round the anniversary of some day of +rejoicing of the Mohamedans, Hindus, Parsees, Jews, Roman Catholics, +or Armenians, and Bombay may therefore be said to present one +universal holiday. Passing the other evening one of the handsomest +pagodas in the island, an oblong square building of yellow stone, +with a mitre-shaped tower at one end, I was surprised by the number +of European carriages in waiting. The exterior had all the air of +a Christian church, the situation beautiful, a platform of rock +overlooking the sea; and I could not help indulging the hope, that the +substitution of chariots and buggies for palanquins and _rhuts_ would +lead to the introduction of a purer and better creed. + + + + +CHAPTER X. + + * * * * * + +BOMBAY--(_Continued_). + + * * * * * + + Bombay the rising Presidency--Probability of its becoming the Seat of + Government--The Anglo-Indian Society of Bombay--Style of Living--The + Gardens inferior to those of Bengal--Interiors of the Houses more + embellished--Absence of Glass-windows an evil--The Bungalows--The + Encamping-ground--Facility and despatch of a change of + residence--Visit to a tent entertainment--Inconveniences attending a + residence in tents--Want of Hotels and Boarding-houses--Deficiency of + public Amusements in Bombay--Lectures and _Conversaziones_ suggested, + as means of bringing the native community into more frequent + intercourse with Europeans--English spoken by the superior classes + of natives--Natives form a very large portion of the wealth and + intelligence of Bombay--Nothing approaching the idea of a City to be + seen--The climate more salubrious than that of Bengal--Wind blows hot + and cold at the same time--Convenience a stranger finds in so many + domestic servants speaking English--Their peculiar mode of speaking + it--Dress of servants--Their wages--The Cooks--Improved by Lord + Clare--Appointments of the tables--The Ramoosee Watchmen--Their + vociferations during the night--Fidelity of the natives--Controversy + concerning their disregard of truth. + + +Comparisons are so frequently both unfair and invidious, that I had +determined, upon my arrival at Bombay, to abstain from making them, +and to judge of it according to its own merits, without reference to +those of the rival presidency. It was impossible, however, to adhere +to this resolution, and being called upon continually to give an +opinion concerning its claims to superiority over Calcutta, I was +reluctantly compelled to consider it in a less favourable point of +view than I should have done had the City of Palaces been left out of +the question. + +That Bombay is the rising presidency there can be no doubt, and there +seems to be every probability of its becoming the seat of the Supreme +Government; nothing short of a rail-road between the two presidencies +can avert this catastrophe; the number of days which elapse before +important news reaching Bombay can be known and acted upon by the +authorities of Calcutta rendering the measure almost imperative. +Bengal, too proudly triumphing in her greatness, has now to bear +the mortifications to which she delighted to subject Bombay, a +place contemptuously designated as "a fishing village," while its +inhabitants, in consequence of their isolated situation, were called +"the Benighted." + +Steam-communication brought the news to Bombay of the accession of +Queen Victoria to the throne of England, and this event was celebrated +at the same time that the Bengallees were toasting the health of +William the Fourth at a dinner given in honour of his birth-day. "Who +are the Benighted now?" was the universal cry; and the story is told +with great glee to all new arrivals. + +Concerning the Anglo-Indian society of Bombay, I do not pretend +to know any thing, or to give opinions which must necessarily be +premature and presumptuous. A round of dinner parties affords little +opportunity of making acquaintance; they are much the same everywhere, +and when a large company is assembled, their agreeability must +entirely depend upon the persons who occupy the neighbouring chairs. + +Bombay is accused, with what degree of justice I cannot determine, of +being a place much addicted to scandal and gossip. If this charge be +well founded, it is one which it must share in common with all limited +circles. The love of detraction is unhappily a thoroughly English +vice, flourishing under all circumstances, and quite as prevalent, +though not, perhaps, equally hurtful, in great cities as in the +smallest village. The same people who in London delight in the perusal +of newspapers of the most libellous description, and who read with +avidity every publication which attacks private character, will, when +removed into a congenial sphere, pick their neighbours to pieces; an +amusement which cannot be enjoyed in the metropolis, where happily we +do not know the names of the parties who occupy the adjoining houses. + +We are proud of our virtues, not unjustly giving ourselves credit for +many that elevate and refine the human character; but even the most +solid and the most dazzling can scarcely compensate for that one +universal sin, that want of charity, which leads English people +upon all occasions to undervalue and disparage their most intimate +acquaintance. How few will scruple to point out to others the follies +and foibles of their dearest friends, weaknesses which they have +discovered during long and familiar intercourse; and how few will +hesitate to impute the very worst motives for actions which may spring +from a laudable source, or be merely the result of thoughtlessness! +In our most Christian country, the spirit of the Christian religion is +still to be sought, and until we see stronger proofs of its influence +than can at present be shown throughout the United Kingdom, we must +not single out a remote colony as a specimen of the indulgence of a +vice common to us all. + +The great evil, which Bombay must share with other communities +similarly constituted, is the want of family ties, and the consequent +loss of all the gentle affections which spring amid a wide domestic +circle. Neither the very old nor the very young are to be found in an +Indian colony; there are few connecting links to bind the sojourners +of a foreign land together; each has a separate interest, and the +result is seen in a general want of sympathy; no one seems to enter +into the views, feelings, hopes, or objects of another. I employ +the word _seems_, since, as a stranger, I can only give my first +impressions upon the subject. + +The style of living is more easily described, and its relative +advantages determined. The Anglo-Indian residents of Bombay are, +for the most part, scattered all over the island, living in very +comfortable houses, of no great pretensions to exterior elegance, +yet having for the most part an air of home enjoyment, which suggests +pleasing ideas. One feature is very striking, the porticoes and +verandahs of many being completely covered with luxuriant flowering +creepers, which in Bengal are never suffered to be near the house, in +consequence of the harbour they are supposed to give to insects +and reptiles. The approach to these beautiful screens is, however, +frequently through a cabbage-garden, the expedience of planting out +the unsightly but useful vegetables destined for the kitchen not +having been as yet considered; neither can the gardens at this period +of the year, the cold season, compare with those of Bengal, the +expense of irrigation preventing the inhabitants from devoting so much +time and attention to their improvement, while as yet the natives +have not been encouraged to fill the bazaars with European vegetables. +Pease are spoken of as not being uncommon, but I have only seen them +once, even at the best tables. Neither have cauliflowers, French +beans, or asparagus, made their appearance--vegetables common at +Christmas all over the Bengal presidency. + +The interiors of the houses are, generally speaking, more embellished +than those of Calcutta; the greater part have handsome ceilings, and +the doorways and windows are decorated with mouldings, and otherwise +better finished. The walls also are coloured, and often very +tastefully picked out with white or some other harmonizing tint. The +reception-rooms, therefore, have not the barn-like air which detracts +from the magnitude of those of Bengal, and the furniture, if not +always equally splendid, is shown off to greater advantage; but here I +should say the superiority ends. + +Some of the small bungalows are very neatly fitted up with boarded +ceilings, a great improvement upon the cloth which conceals the +rafters in those of Bengal; others, however, are canopied with +cloth, and some there are which appear more like summer-houses +than habitations intended for Europeans throughout the year, being +destitute of glass windows, and open to all the winds of heaven. + +The frequent changes of the atmosphere which occur in Bombay, and +the danger of a touch of the land-wind, render the absence of glass +windows a very serious evil; they are, however, unknown in the +temporary bungalows erected upon the Esplanade, which seem to be +favourite residences of people who could lodge themselves more +substantially if they pleased. The barn-like thatched roofs of these +dwellings make them rather unsightly objects, though some are redeemed +by a thick drapery of creepers; but the interiors of many are of a +very pavilion-like description, and the singularity of all renders +them interesting to a stranger. + +These houses usually consist of two or more principal apartments, +united with each other by means of verandahs, and formed chiefly +of wooden frame-work panelled with canvas, with here and there a +partition of wattle and dab. They have generally large porticoes of +trellice-work in front, sufficiently spacious to allow a carriage to +drive under them, which is thus screened from the sun; these porticoes +being mantled with flowering creepers of many beautiful kinds. A sort +of garden is also formed by plants in tubs, and there is sometimes a +cultivated oval or circular space, which, in such a climate, a very +few weeks will render luxuriant. The fronts of these bungalows +face the sea, and have all the benefit of its breezes, while the +intervening space between the fort forms the parade-ground of the +garrison, and the most esteemed evening drive. + +Those who inhabit these bungalows, and who do not rise before the sun, +are subjected to all the inconveniences attending upon field practice, +the firing of musquetry and the war of cannon close to their ears, and +though favourite residences, they seem better suited to persons well +accustomed to all the vicissitudes of Anglo-Indian life than to a +stranger. For my own part, I confess a prejudice in favour of brick +and mortar, glass windows, and chimneys; and though perfectly content, +while travelling, to put up with any accommodation that may offer, +would never willingly settle down for a season in a mansion of canvas, +mat, and bamboo, where the rats have free ingress, and the atmosphere +is filled with innumerable winged insects. + +Before the general setting-in of the rains, these bungalows, I am +informed, assume a very damp and tatterdemalion appearance, and when +the skies open their flood-gates, they are obliged to be taken down +and warehoused until the following year. Some of these bungalows are +private property, others are erected by the natives and let to +their tenants at a monthly rent. In some, the sleeping and sitting +apartments are under different roofs; all have a considerable piece of +ground enclosed round them, the allotments to each party being made by +Government, and appertaining to certain appointments in the service. + +Beyond these bungalows is the encamping ground, in which certain +temporary sojourners in Bombay either pitch or hire a tent or tents, +the accommodation differing according to the expense incurred. The +superior tents--such, for instance, as that engaged by the late +admiral--are spacious and convenient; a handsome suite of apartments, +consisting of ante-room, drawing-room, and dining-room, partitioned +off by canvas curtains, which could be rolled up at pleasure, were +lighted by chandeliers suspended from the cross-poles and girandoles +against those that supported the roof; the walls were handsomely +lined, the floors covered with thick mats and carpets; nothing being +wanted to render this canvas dwelling equal in comfort and elegance to +the tents of Bengal, excepting glass doors. + +The weather, during the cold season in this part of India, is not +nearly so inclement as in Calcutta and the north-western provinces; +nevertheless, it is very desirable to shut out the keen and cutting +wind, which frequently blows during the night. The people here, +however, seem fond of living in tents, and it often happens that +gentlemen especially, who have had good houses of their own over their +heads, go to very considerable expense for the purpose of enjoying the +free air of a camp. + +I had an opportunity of seeing the facility and despatch with which +such a change of residence is managed in Bombay. Driving one evening +round the foot of a conical hill overlooking the sea, we met a party +of gentlemen who said that they were looking out for a good place to +pitch their tents, and invited us to dine with them on the following +evening at seven o'clock. As the hill was in our neighbourhood, we +ascertained at eleven o'clock the next morning that there was not a +symptom of habitation upon it; however, we were determined to keep our +engagement, and accordingly arrived at the appointed hour at the point +of the road at which a rude pathway opened. + +It was perfectly dark, but we found the place indicated by a cluster +of lamps hanging like a bunch of grapes from a tree; a palanquin was +also in waiting to carry the ladies up the hill in turn. I preferred +walking; and though my shoes and the hem of my gown were covered with +prickles and thorns, which interweaved themselves in an extraordinary +manner through a satin dress, I enjoyed the walk amazingly. A man +with a lanthorn led the way, a precaution always taken in Bombay, on +account of the alleged multitude of the snakes, and at every three or +four yards' distance, another cluster of lamps suspended from a tree +pointed out the way. + +In a few minutes we arrived at a platform of table-land on the summit +of the hill, prettily sprinkled with palm-trees, and came upon a scene +full of life, picture, and movement. The white outline of the smaller +tents had a sort of phantom look in the ambiguous light, but the open +doors of the principal one showed a strong illumination. A table, +which we might have supposed to be raised by the hand of an enchanter, +gleaming with silver, cut glass, and wax candles, was absolutely +framed in by the darkness around. Two or three horses picketed under +the trees with their grooms, cowering over fires made upon the ground, +looked very like unearthly chargers, just emerged with their grim +attendants from some subterranean kingdom; while the red glare from +the cooking tents, and the dusky figures moving about, could scarcely +be recognised as belonging to human and every-day life--the whole +scene having a supernatural air. + +The interior of the tents was extremely picturesque, fitted up with +odds and ends of foreign products, and looking very like the temporary +haunt of some pirate; tiger skins, rich soft thick rugs of Persian +manufacture, interspersed with Indian mats, covered the floors; the +tents were lined with flags, favouring the notion that the corsair's +bark lay anchored in some creek below; while daggers, and pistols, and +weapons of all kinds, helped out a fanciful imagination to a tale of +wild adventure. The butler of our host had enacted more wonders than +a man; under such circumstances, a repast of fish and curry might +have been considered a great achievement, but we had the three regular +courses, and those, too, of a most _recherche_ kind, with a dessert to +match, all sent up to the point of perfection. + +After coffee, I went out to look upon the sea, which lay like a mirror +below the perpendicular height on which I stood; and as my eyes +became accustomed to the darkness of a moonless night, I saw under +new aspects the sombre outlines of those soft hills, whose purple +loveliness I had admired so much during the day. + +I spent several pleasant evenings in these tents, which were engaged +by a young nobleman upon his travels for the purpose of escaping from +the annoyances of the Fort, and who, during his short residence under +canvas, had the advantage of the companionship of a friend, to +whose experienced servants he was indebted for the excellence of the +arrangements. + +When it is considered that these tents were pitched upon a lonely +spot, upwards of four miles from Bombay and from the bazaars, the +celerity and success with which every thing was managed will appear +quite wonderful. The tents were found to be so cold, that a gentleman +who afterwards joined the party slept in his palanquin; they were +subsequently removed, and now the palm-tree waves its broad leaves +over the lonely hill, and the prowling jackal seeks his meal +elsewhere. Tents such as those now described form the rarer and +brighter specimens, their usual character being very different. + +On the Esplanade we step at once from the ground upon a settrinjee, +which bears all the marks of having been well trodden by sandy feet; +an opening at the farther extremity shows the sea, glaring on the eye +with a hot dazzle; a table, a few chairs, with some books and papers, +perhaps, upon the ground, complete the arrangements that are visible; +while, if proceeding farther, we find ourselves in a room fitted up +as a bed-chamber, nearly as small and inconvenient as the cabin of a +ship, with a square aperture in the thin canvas wall for a window. + +These tents are dreadfully warm during the day, and exceedingly cold +at night; they are, moreover, notwithstanding their proximity to +the sea, and the benefit of its breezes, filled with mosquitoes, or +sand-flies, which are equally troublesome. Persons who contemplate a +long residence in them, keep out of the cold and heat by erecting a +chopper, or roof, formed of thatch, over them; but, in my opinion, +they are but uncomfortable residences. Many strangers, however, +arriving at Bombay, have no alternative, there being no other place +where they can find equally good accommodation. + +An hotel, it appears, has been established in the Fort, but not of a +description to suit private families or ladies; the constant arrival +of steamers full of passengers fills the houses of the residents +with a succession of guests, who would gladly put up at an hotel or +boarding-house, if such could be found, while there are besides +many ladies now in Bombay, whose husbands are in the army, living +uncomfortably either alone or going about from friend to friend's +houses, who would rejoice to be quietly and comfortably established in +a respectable boarding-house. Nothing of the kind, however, appears to +be at present in contemplation, and Bombay can never, with any +degree of justice, presume to call itself England, until it can offer +suitable accommodation to the vast numbers of strangers who land upon +its shores. + +European foreigners, who visit Bombay in a commercial capacity, find +it exceedingly _triste_; independently of private society, there is +absolutely no amusement--no play, no concert, no public assembly +of any kind; nor would it be advisable to attempt to establish an +entertainment of this nature, since there would be no chance of its +support. There is a fine building, the Town Hall, well adapted for the +purpose, but its most spacious saloon is suffered to remain empty and +unfurnished; the expense which must be incurred in the purchase +of chandeliers proving sufficient to deter the community from an +undertaking which would serve to add gaiety to a sombre scene. + +Those who have visited the Town Hall of Calcutta, and who retain a +recollection of the brilliance of its re-unions, with all their gay +variety of concert, opera, and acted charade, cannot help seeing +that Bombay lags very far behind; it is, therefore, unwise to provoke +comparisons, and the society here should rather pride itself upon what +it will do, than upon what it has done. It is, perhaps, little to be +lamented that merely frivolous amusements should be wholly confined to +the private circles of social life, but there are others which might +be cultivated with infinite advantage to the community at large, and +for which the great room at the Town Hall seems to be most admirably +adapted. + +Whether the native ear is sufficiently refined to relish the superior +performances of music, seems doubtful; but when we see so large +a portion of the society of Bombay composed of Parsee, Hindu, and +Mohamedan gentlemen, we cannot help wishing that some entertainment +should be provided for them which would attract and interest, while +it expanded the mind. A series of lectures upon popular subjects, +illustrated by entertaining experiments, might, I should think, be +introduced with good effect. The wonders of the microscope, laid open +to the eyes of intelligent persons who perfectly understand and +speak English, could scarcely fail to delight and instruct, while +the secrets of phantasmagoria, the astonishing effects produced by +electricity, the movements of the heavenly bodies exhibited in an +orrery, and, indeed, all the arcana of science, agreeably laid open, +would furnish inexhaustible funds of amusement, and lead to inquiries +of the most useful nature. Lectures, also, upon horticulture, +floriculture, &c., might be followed by much practical good; and as +there are many scientific men at the presidency who could assist one +or more lecturers engaged for the purpose, the expense of such an +institution would be materially lessened, while, if it were once +established, the probabilities are in favour of its being supported +by contributions of the necessary models, implements, &c., from the +capitals of Europe. + +It is certainly very pleasing to see the numbers of native gentlemen +of all religious persuasions, who enter into the private society +of Bombay, but I could wish that we should offer them some better +entertainment than that of looking on at the eternal quadrille, waltz, +or galoppe. They are too much accustomed to our method of amusing +ourselves to view it in the light in which it is looked upon in many +other parts of India; still, they will never, in all probability, +reconcile it to their ideas of propriety, and it is a pity that we do +not show ourselves capable of something better. Conversation at these +parties is necessarily restricted to a few commonplaces; nothing is +gained but the mere interchange of civility, and the native spectators +gladly depart, perhaps to recreate themselves with more debasing +amusements, without having gained a single new idea. + +If meetings once a fortnight, or once a month, could be held at the +Town Hall, for the purpose of diffusing useful knowledge in a popular +manner, they would not only afford amusement at the time, but subjects +also of conversation for the future. Such meetings would give no +offence to that part of the community who are averse, upon religious +principles, to cards and dancing, or dramatic amusements; and if not +rendered too abstruse, and consequently tiresome and incomprehensible +to the general auditor, must necessarily become a favourite method of +passing time now too frequently lost or mis-spent. + +The literary and scientific _conversaziones_ given by Lord Auckland, +in Calcutta, afford a precedent for an institution of the kind; the +successful features might be copied, and if there should have been any +failures, the experience thus gained would prevent similar hazards. +There seems to be no good reason why ladies should be excluded, since +the more general and extensive a plan of the kind could be made, +the greater chance there would be of a beneficial exercise of its +influence over society. + +There is a very good library attached to the Town Hall, and the germ +of a museum, which would furnish materials for much intellectual +entertainment; and there can be little doubt that, if the proposition +were judiciously made, and properly supported, the wealthy portion +of the native community would subscribe very liberally towards an +establishment so eminently calculated to interest and amuse the youth +of their families. The greater number of the sons of respectable +natives are now receiving their education at the Elphinstone College, +and these young people would understand and appreciate the advantages +of a literary and scientific institution, for the discussion and +illustration of subjects intimately connected with the end and aim +of their studies. In the course of a few years, or even less, many +of these young men would be qualified to take a leading part in the +establishment, and perhaps there would be no greater incentive to the +continuation of studies now frequently abandoned too early, for the +sake of some money-getting pursuit, than the hope that the scientific +acquirements attained at college might be turned to useful account. + +A small salary would allure many natives, who, in consequence of the +necessity which they are under of gaining their own bread, are +obliged to engage in some, perhaps not very lucrative, trade, and +who, engrossed in the gathering together o petty gains, lose all the +advantages they might otherwise have derived from a liberal education. +The difficulties which in other parts of our Asiatic territories +stand in the way of the participation of natives in the studies and +amusements of Anglo-Indian residents, in consequence of the difference +of language, are not felt in Bombay. + +All the superior classes of natives speak excellent English, the +larger portion expressing themselves with great fluency, and even +elegance. English is spoken in every shop frequented by Europeans, and +there are generally one or two servants in every family who can make +themselves understood in it. The natives form, in fact, a very +large portion of the wealth and intelligence of Bombay, and become, +consequently, an important part of its society. They are the owners +of nearly all the best houses in the island, which are not commonly +either built or purchased, as in Calcutta, by their European tenants. + +Many rich native merchants, who reside usually in the Fort, possess +splendid country mansions, to which they retire occasionally, or which +are used merely for the purpose of giving parties to their friends. +These mansions are to be recognised by the abundance of ornament, by +gateways surmounted by nondescript monsters, after the fashion of +the lions or bears of carved stone, which are sometimes seen at the +entrance of a nobleman's grounds in England. At others, they are gaily +painted in a variety of colours, while a profusion of many-coloured +lamps, hanging in the verandah and porticoes on the occasion of every +fete, shed great brilliance on the evening scene. These residences are +scattered all over Bombay, the interiors being all richly furnished, +and many fitted up with infinite taste and elegance. + +Although, as I have before remarked, these scattered houses impart an +air of rural enjoyment to the island, yet their being spread over +its whole surface prevents Bombay from appearing to be so important a +place as it is in reality. There is nothing approaching to the idea +of a city to be seen, nothing solid or substantial to indicate +the presence of wealth or of extensive commerce. Calcutta, on the +contrary, offers to the stranger's eye an aspect so striking and +imposing, brings so strongly to the mind the notion that its merchants +are princes, and that it ranks crowned heads amongst its vassals and +its tributaries, that we see at once that it must be the seat of a +powerful and permanently established government. Nor does it seem +possible, even in the event of Bombay taking the ascendance as the +capital of British India, that the proud City of Palaces shall upon +that account dwindle and sink into decay. Stranger things, and even +more melancholy destinies, have befallen the mighty Babylons of the +earth; but with all its faults of situation and of climate, I should +at least, for one, regret the fate that would render the glories of +a city so distinct in its character, and so proudly vying with the +capitals of Europe, a tale of the past. A new direction in the course +of the Ganges may reduce it to a swamp, and its palaces and pleasant +places may be left to desolate creatures, but it will never be +rivalled by any modern creation. The days of Anglo-Indian magnificence +are gone by, and though we may hope for all that is conveyed by the +words _comfort_ and _prosperity_, splendour will no longer form a +feature in the scene. + +The climate of Bombay is said to be superior in point of salubrity to +that of Bengal; what is termed the cold season, however, can +scarcely merit the name, there being nothing like the bracing weather +experienced at the same period of the year in the neighbouring +presidency. One peculiarity of Bombay consists in the wind blowing hot +and cold at the same time, so that persons who are liable to rheumatic +pains are obliged to wrap themselves up much more warmly than is +agreeable. While enduring a very uncomfortable degree of heat, a puff +of wind from the land or the sea will produce a sudden revulsion, and +in these alternations the whole day will pass away, while at night +they become still more dangerous. It is said that the hot season +is not so hot as in Bengal, and the absence of punkahs in the +drawing-rooms and bed-chambers favours the statement; but if the +atmosphere be much more sultry in the hot season than it is in what is +by courtesy called cold, it must be rather difficult to bear. + +To a stranger in Bombay, it is a great convenience to find so many +persons who speak English, the objection to the engagement of domestic +servants who have acquired the language of their Christian masters not +existing to the same extent here as in Bengal, where, in most cases, +it is a proof of utter worthlessness. Numbers of very respectable +servants, who are found in old established families at this +presidency, speak English, and the greater portion take a pride in +knowing a little of their masters' language. These smatterers are +fond of showing off their acquirements upon all occasions, replying +in English, as far as they are able, to every question asked in +Hindostanee, and delivering their messages in all the words that they +can muster. With few exceptions, the pronunciation of the language +they have acquired is correct; these exceptions consist in the prefix +of _e_ to all words beginning with an _s_, and the addition of the +same letter to every termination to which it can be tacked. Thus they +will ask you to take some _fowlee-stew;_ and if you object to any +thing, say they will bring you _anotheree_. Though very respectful +when addressing their superiors in their native language, the same +degree of propriety is not maintained under the disadvantage of an +incompetent acquaintance with English. Instead of the _khana tear hi_, +'dinner is ready,' they will very unintentionally substitute an abrupt +summons. I was much amused one day, when, being rather late at my +toilette, a servant made his appearance at the door of my apartment, +just as I was quitting it, and said, "You come to dinner." He had been +sent to tell me that it was served, and had not the least idea that he +had not delivered his message with the greatest propriety. + +Though, generally speaking, well-behaved and attentive, the domestics +of a Bombay establishment are very inferior in style and appearance +to those of Bengal, the admixture of Portuguese and Parsees, with +Mohammedans and Hindus, forming a motley crew, for all dress in their +national costume, it being impossible to prevail upon people having +so many and such different religious prejudices to assume the same +livery. The Parsees who engage as domestic servants seldom dress well; +the ugly chintz cap will always be a disfigurement, and it is not +often redeemed by the ample robe and handsome shawl which distinguish +the better classes. + +The Mohammedans do not wear the beautifully plaited turbans and +well-fitting vests so common in Bengal, while the sailors' jackets +and trowsers, almost universally worn by the Portuguese, a few only +assuming the swallow-tailed coat, are any thing rather than +handsome or becoming. The inferiority of dress exhibited is the more +inexcusable, since the wages of servants in Bombay are much higher +than those of the same class in Bengal, while the difference in +point of number does not make up for the difference in the rate. The +youngest table-servant demands twelve rupees a month, no one will +engage as a butler under twenty, and the remainder are in proportion. +The ayahs' wages are also very high, amounting to from fifteen to +twenty rupees a month; they are certainly, however, more efficient +than the same class of persons in Bengal, undertaking to wash silk +stockings, lace, and fine muslin; they are, generally speaking, +well-conducted and respectable. The dirzees or tailors are very +inferior to their brethren of Bengal, though paid at a much higher +rate, fifteen rupees a month being the common demand. Whenever a +Bengal tailor happens to come round, he is eagerly seized upon, the +reputation of workmen from the rival presidency being deservedly high. +Tailors are indiscriminately Parsees, Mohammedans, or Hindus, the +latter-named being the least desirable, as they will neither eat, +drink, nor cook in a European manner, and are always eager to get away +by half-past four in the afternoon. + +The cooks of Bombay are, for the most part, well acquainted with the +culinary art, an advantage for which, according to common report, they +are indebted to Lord Clare. Upon the arrival of that nobleman at the +seat of his government, it is said that he started with horror at the +repast which the hospitality of the island had provided for him. At +this substantial dinner, the ponderous round jostled the sirloin of +beef, saddles and haunches of mutton _vis-a-vis'd_ with each other, +while turkey and ham, tongue and fowls, geese and ducks, filled up the +interstices. + +Lord Clare had either brought a French cook in his train, or sent for +one with the least possible delay, and this accomplished person not +only reformed the _cuisine_ at Government House, but took pupils, and +instructed all who chose to pay for the acquirement in the mysteries +of his art. He found his scholars a very teachable race, and it is +only now necessary to describe the way in which any particular +method should be practised, in order to secure success. They easily +comprehend the directions given, and, what is of equal consequence, +are not above receiving instructions. Through the exertions of these +praiseworthy persons, the tables of Bombay are frequently exceedingly +well served, and nobody is actually obliged to dine upon the huge +joints which still make their appearance. + +Turkey maintains its high position, and is, with its accompaniment of +ham, considered indispensable; rounds of boiled salt-beef, plentifully +garnished with carrots, are apparently in high esteem, the carrots +being an importation from England, coming out hermetically sealed +in tin cases. What are considered the dainties of the table consist +chiefly of fresh salmon, preserved by the patent process, Highland +mutton, partridges stuffed with truffles, &c., these things, in +consequence of their rendering the dinner more expensive as well as +more _recherche_, being in great request. + +Although the high prices of provisions are adduced as the reason of +the high rate of servants' wages, as compared with those of Bengal, +this increased expenditure, according to the observations I have been +able to make, relates more to the commodities of the native bazaars +than those consumed by Europeans. The necessity of bringing in +supplies from a distance for the consumption of the island occasions +the increase of the price of grain, &c, while probably the demand +for beef, mutton, fowls, &c. not being go great as in Calcutta, these +articles are sold at a lower rate. Buffalo meat is occasionally eaten +by Europeans, a thing unheard of in Bengal; but it is not in any +esteem. + +The tables in Bombay are handsomely appointed, though not with the +same degree of splendour that prevails in Bengal, where the quantity +of plate makes so striking a display. The large silver vases, in which +butter and milk are enclosed in a vessel filled with saltpetre, which +give to the breakfast-tables of Calcutta an air of such princely +grandeur, are not in use here. + +The servants are summoned by the exclamation of "Boy" instead of the +_Qui hi_? which is so Indian-like in its expression, and has afforded +a distinguishing _soubriquet_ to the Bengallees. The word _boy_ +is said to be a corruption of _bhaee_, 'brother,' a common mode of +salutation all over the East. As it is now employed, it is often very +absurdly answered by a grey-bearded man, who has long lost all title +to the appellation. + +Notwithstanding the strength and acknowledged efficiency of the Bombay +police, it is considered expedient in every house to engage a Ramoosee +or watchman, who, while himself a professional thief, is bound in +honour to protect his employer from the depredation of his brethren. +Though, in virtue of this implied compact, the house ought to be +considered sacred, and the Ramoosee entitled to receive his wages for +the protection that his name affords, some there are who insist upon +the display of their watchfulness in a very unwelcome manner. + +Occasionally the Ramoosee, more peaceably inclined, settles himself +quietly down to sleep in the verandah, and leaves the family to the +enjoyment of repose; but there are others who disdain thus to eat the +bread of idleness, and who make it a point to raise an alarm every +hour in the night. Personal courage or strength of body is by no means +essential in a Ramoosee, all that is required of him being powerful +lungs; this qualification he cultivates to the utmost, and any thing +more dreadful than the sounds emitted in the dead of the night close +to the window nearest the head of my bed I never heard. I have started +up in the most horrible state of apprehension, fancying that the world +was at an end, while, after calming down all this perturbation, +just as I have been going to sleep again, the same fearful shout has +brought on new alarm. Vainly have I remonstrated, vainly endeavoured +to convince the Ramoosee that his duty to his employers would be +better performed by making these shocking outcries at the road-side; +he is either inflexibly silent, or waging war against my repose; for I +believe that he selects the side of the house devoted to the visit or +for the exercise of his extraordinary faculty; I cannot in any other +way account for the small disturbance he gives to the rest of the +family. + +The absolute necessity of paying one of these men, in order to secure +the forbearance of his colleagues, is illustrated by an anecdote +commonly told. It appears that two friends were living together, one +of whom had engaged a Ramoosee, while the other, not imagining it +to be incumbent upon him to incur the same expense, neglected this +precaution. One night, every thing belonging to this unfortunate +chum was stolen. The Ramoosee was summoned, and accused of not +having performed his duty. He boldly denied the charge. "All master's +property is safe," he said; "when master lose any thing, I will +account for it." + +The fidelity with which the greater number of natives, however corrupt +in other respects, fulfil all their engagements, the few instances +in which a pledge once given is forfeited, if taken into grave +consideration, would do much towards settling the point at issue +between the Bishop of London and Sir Charles Forbes. The word of a +native, generally speaking, if solemnly given, is a bond never to be +broken, while an oath is certainly not equally binding. + +In accusing the natives of a deliberate crime in the commission of +perjury, we do not sufficiently reflect upon the difference of the +religious principles which actuate Christians, and the heinous nature +in their eyes of the sin of calling upon a God of purity to witness +their falsehoods. If we could administer an oath to a native, the +profanation of which would fill him with equal horror, we should find +that he would speak the truth. A case in point occurred lately at +Aden. There are a class of Mohammedans who are great knaves, many +being addicted to cheating and theft: the evidence of these men cannot +be depended upon, since for the value of the most trifling sum they +would swear to any thing. Nevertheless, although they do not hesitate +to call upon God and the Prophet to witness the most flagrant +untruths, they will not support a falsehood if put to a certain test. +When required to swear by a favourite wife, they refuse to perjure +themselves by a pledge which they esteem sacred, and will either +shrink altogether from the ordeal or state the real fact. + +The following occurrence is vouched for by an eye-witness: "A Somali +had a dispute with a Banian as to the number of komasies he had paid +for a certain article, swearing by God and the Prophet that he had +paid the price demanded of him for the article in question; but no +sooner was he called upon to substantiate his assertions by swearing +by his favourite wife, than he threw down the article contended for, +and took to his heels with all speed, in order to avoid the much +dreaded oath." It will appear, therefore, that there is scarcely any +class of persons in India so utterly destitute of principle, as to be +incapable of understanding the obligation of an oath, or the necessity +of speaking truth when solemnly pledged to do so, the difficulty being +to discover the asseveration which they consider binding. + +In nearly every transaction with servants in India we find them most +unscrupulous respecting the truth of any account which they give, and +yet at the same time they will fulfil every engagement they enter into +with a conscientiousness almost unknown in Christian countries. The +lowest servant of the establishment may be trusted with money, which +will be faithfully appropriated to the purpose for which it was +intended, but certainly they entertain little or no respect for +abstract truth. + +The controversy at home concerning the general disregard to accuracy +manifested by the natives of India has caused much consternation here, +and will, I trust, be productive of good. It will show at least to +the large portion of the native community, who can understand and +appreciate the value of the good opinion of the country of which they +are fellow-subjects, the necessity of a strict adherence to veracity, +in order to maintain their pretensions to morality, and it will +evince the superiority of that religion which, as one of its precepts, +teaches a regard for truth. + +Willing as I feel to bear testimony to many excellent points in the +native character, I regret to say, that, although they do not deserve +the sweeping accusations brought against them, the standard by which +they are guided is very low. At the same time it must be said, that +the good faith which they observe, upon occasions in which persons +guided by superior lights would be less scrupulous, shows that they +only require a purer religious system to regard truth as we have been +taught to regard it. + + + + +CHAPTER XI. + + * * * * * + +BOMBAY--(_Continued_.) + + * * * * * + + Residences for the Governor--Parell--Its Gardens--Profusion of + Roses--Receptions at Government-house--The evening-parties--The + grounds and gardens of Parell inferior to those at Barrackpore--The + Duke of Wellington partial to Parell--Anecdotes of his Grace + in India--Sir James Mackintosh--His forgetfulness of India--The + Horticultural Society--Malabar Point, a retreat in the hot + weather--The Sea-view beautiful--The nuisance of fish--Serious effects + at Bombay of the stoppage of the trade with China--Ill-condition + of the poorer classes of Natives--Frequency of Fires--Houses of the + Parsees--Parsee Women--Masculine air of the other Native Females + of the lower orders who appear in + public--Bangle-shops--Liqueur-shops--Drunkenness amongst Natives + not uncommon here, from the temptations held out--The Sailors' + Home--Arabs, Greeks, Chinamen--The latter few and shabby--Portuguese + Padres--Superiority of the Native Town of Bombay over that of + Calcutta--Statue of Lord Cornwallis--Bullock-carriages--High price and + inferiority of horses in Bombay--Hay-stacks--Novel mode of stacking. + + +There are three residences for the accommodation of the Governor +of Bombay; one, the Castle, situated within the Fort, has been long +disused, and appropriated to government-offices; a second, at Malabar +Point, is intended as a retreat for the hot weather; Parell, the +third, being the mansion most usually occupied. + +Though not built in a commanding position, Parell is very prettily +situated in the midst of gardens, having a rich back-ground of wood, +while, from the upper windows, the eye, after ranging over these +luxuriant groves, catches a view of the sea, and is carried away to +more remote regions by the waving outline of distant hills, melting +into the soft haze until it effaces all their details. + +Parell was originally a college of Jesuits, and, after so many +alterations and improvements, that its original occupants would be +puzzled to recognise it, is now rendered worthy of the purpose to +which it is dedicated. The house is an irregular structure, without +pretension to architectural design or ornament, but having something +noble in its appearance, which is helped out by a fine portico and +battlemented roof. The interior is handsome and convenient; two +flights of marble stairs, twelve feet broad, lead into a very spacious +drawing-room, with galleries on either side, and three smaller +drawing-rooms beyond. The terrace over the portico, at the other +end, separated from this suite of apartments by a verandah, is easily +convertible into a fourth reception-room, it being roofed in by an +awning, and furnished with blinds, which in the day-time give a very +Italian air to the whole building. + +Though I have never been in Italy, the acquaintance gained of it +through the medium of illustrating pens and pencils makes me fancy +that the island of Bombay, and Parell especially, at this season of +the year (the cold weather), may bear a strong resemblance to that +fair and sunny land. + +The gardens of Parell are perfectly Italian, with their fountains and +cypress trees; though regular, they are not sufficiently symmetrical +to offend the eye, the nature of the ground and of the building, which +runs out at right angles, preventing the formality from being +carried beyond its just limit. Price, the most judicious of +landscape-gardeners, would scarcely have desired to alter arrangements +which have quite enough of the varied and the picturesque to +satisfy those who do not contend for eternal labyrinthine mazes and +perpetually waving lines. There is one straight avenue in front, but +the principal carriage-road has just the kind of curve most desirable, +sweeping round some fine trees which group themselves for the purpose +of affording an agreeable diversity. + +A broad terrace, overlooking a large tank, runs along one side of the +garden, and beyond, upon a rising hill, are seen the New Horticultural +Gardens, and a part of the picturesque village of Metunga, while the +rest is laid out in small lawns, interspersed with rounds and ovals, +fountains in the centre, surrounded by flower-beds, and flanked by +tall, slender cypresses, and the more rare, delicate, and elegant +species of palms: all this is set off by clumps of mangoes, now +covered with blossoms of dark gold burnishing their green leaves. + +It is, indeed, a fair and stately garden, enriched with many native +and foreign productions, both of tree and flower, of great beauty. In +one place, two large trees, on either side a broad gravel walk, are +united by a splendid festoon, formed by a creeper, which bears in the +greatest profusion bell-shaped flowers, at least four inches long, and +of the most beautiful pearly whiteness and fragrant scent. I regret +that my want of botanical knowledge incapacitates me from giving its +name and family. That species of palm which is called the Travellers' +Tree, and which, growing in sandy places, contains in its leaves an +ample supply of fresh water, is to be found here. It resembles the +banana or plantain, in its broad leaves, springing immediately from +the stem, but attains a much greater height, and is altogether very +striking and singular in its appearance. + +The wealth of roses at the gardens of Parell seems to exceed all +computation, bushels being collected every day without any apparent +diminution; indeed it may be questioned whether there is in any part +of the world so great a consumption of this beautiful flower as in +Bombay. The natives cultivate it very largely, and as comparatively +few employ it in the manufacture of rose-water, it is gathered and +given away in the most lavish profusion. At Parell, every morning, one +of the gardeners renews the flowers which decorate the apartments +of the guests; bouquets are placed upon the breakfast-table, which, +though formal, are made up after the most approved Parisian fashion, +the natives being exceedingly skilful in the arrangement of flowers. +Vases filled with roses meet the eye in every direction, flowers which +assume their supremacy over all other daughters of Flora, though there +are many beautiful specimens, the common productions of the gardens, +which are rarely found even in hothouses in England. + +The society of Bombay enjoys the great advantage arising from the +presence of the ladies of the Governor's family, who have rendered +themselves most deservedly popular by the frequency and the +agreeableness of their entertainments, and the kind attention which +they pay to every invited guest. The slight forms that are kept up at +Government-house are just sufficient to give a somewhat courtly air +to these parties without depriving them of their sociability. Morning +visitors are received once a-week, and upon these occasions Parell +assumes a very gay appearance. + +The band, which is an excellent one, is stationed in the hall below, +playing occasionally the most popular compositions of the day, while +its pillared verandah is filled with liveried servants, handsomely +dressed in scarlet, white, and gold. The ample staircases are lined +with flowers, and as the carriages drive up, the aide-de-camps +and other military resident guests are in readiness to receive the +visitors, and to usher them up stairs, and introduce them to the +ladies of the family. + +The morning reception lasts from eleven until two, and the numerous +arrivals from distant stations, or from England, officers continually +coming down from the army or the dominions of foreign princes, +give occasion to conversations of great interest, while it forms +a rallying-point to the whole of Bombay. The evening parties are +distinguished for the excellence of the music, the band having +improved greatly under the stimulating influence of the ladies of the +Governor's family, who are all delightful performers, one especially +excelling. In addition, therefore, to their own talents, all the +musical genius of Bombay is put into requisition, and the result is +shown in some very charming episodes between the dancing. + +At these evening parties, the brilliance of the lights, and the +beauty of the flowers, which in the supper-room especially are very +tastefully displayed, render the scene extremely attractive. One very +pleasing feature must not be omitted; in the ante-room is placed +a large silver salver, filled with bouquets, which are presented, +according to the Oriental custom, to every guest. The number and +variety of the uniforms, and the large proportion of native gentlemen, +add much to the gaiety of the appearance of these parties, and the +eye most accustomed to European splendour may find pleasure in +roaming over these spacious, well-filled, and brilliantly illuminated +apartments. + +Nor is it the interior alone that attracts; on the still moonlight +nights, which are so beautiful in India, the scenery viewed from the +windows assumes a peculiar and almost magical appearance, looking more +like a painting than living reality. The trees, so motionless that not +a leaf stirs, present a picture of such unbroken repose, that we can +scarcely imagine it to be real; the sky seems to be drawn closer to +us, while the whole breathes of divine art, suggesting poetry and +music and thoughts of Paradise. + +In England I remember feeling a longing desire to breathe the +delicious balm, and gaze upon the exquisite effects of an Indian night +again, with its tone of soft beauty and the silvery mystery of its +atmosphere, which adds so great a charm to the rich magnificence of +the foliage; and now I fancy that I can never sufficiently drink in a +scene, not only lovely in itself, but peculiarly delightful from its +contrast to the glare of the day. + +The grounds and gardens of Parell, in extent and splendour, will bear +no comparison with those of Barrackpore, which are, perhaps, some of +the finest in the world, and which must be explored in carriages or +on horseback, while the plantations and parterres at this place offer +nothing more than agreeable walks, which perhaps, after all, afford +superior gratification; at least to those who prefer a feeling of home +to the admiration elicited by great splendour. + +Not one of the least pleasing sensations excited by a residence at +Parell, is the recollection of the distinguished persons who have +inhabited the same chambers, and sat in the same halls. The Duke +of Wellington is said frequently to have expressed a partiality for +Parell, and to look back to the days of his sojourn within its walls +with pleasure. Here he reposed after those battles in which he +laid the foundation of his future glory, and to which, after long +experience, and so many subsequent triumphs as almost to eclipse +their splendour, he recurs with peculiar satisfaction. So far from +underrating, as is the fashion with many of the military servants of +the Crown, the merits of a successful campaign in India, the great +captain of the age, than whom there can be no better judge, rates the +laurels that he gathered in his earliest fields as highly as those +wrested from the soldiers of France, glorying in the title given him +by Napoleon, of "the Sepoy General." + +Few things can be more agreeable than listening to anecdotes told at +the dinner-table at Parell of the Duke of Wellington by officers who +have formerly sat at the same board with him, who have served under +his command in India, and who delight in recording those early traits +of character which impressed all who knew him with the conviction that +he was destined to become the greatest man of the age. The Duke of +Wellington, though wholly unacquainted with the language spoken in +India, was always held in the highest esteem by the natives, with +whom, generally speaking, in order to become popular, it is absolutely +necessary to be able to converse in their own tongue. He obtained, +however, a perfect knowledge of their modes of feeling, thinking, and +acting, and by a liberal policy, never before experienced, endeared +himself to all ranks and classes. It is recollected at this day +that, in times of scarcity, he ordered all the rice sent up for the +subsistence of the troops to be sold, at a moderate price, to +the starving multitude; and that, while more short-sighted people +prophesied the worst results from this measure, it obtained for him +abundant supplies, together with a name that will never be forgotten. + +A re-perusal at Parell of the "Life of Sir James Mackintosh" also +affords interest, though of a different kind. The house which Sir +James designates as large and convenient, with two really good rooms, +has been much improved since his time. It could not be expected that +a man like Sir James Mackintosh would employ many words in the +description of a mansion chiefly interesting on account of its +former occupants; but that he should have dismissed the whole of the +presidency in as summary a manner, seems perfectly unaccountable. + +It does not appear that the importance and value of British India ever +made any strong impression upon Sir James Mackintosh, who seems to +have looked upon its various inhabitants with a cold and careless eye; +to have done nothing in the way of making the people of England better +acquainted with their fellow-subjects in the East, and never to have +felt any desire to assist in the work of their improvement, or to +facilitate its progress. During his subsequent career, India appears +to have been totally forgotten, or remembered only as the scene of +an exile, in which he had found nothing to compensate for the loss of +literary society and the learned idling away of time, from which so +much was expected, and which produced so little. + +The eloquence of Sir James Mackintosh, if exerted in favour of British +India, might, years before, have excited that interest in its behalf, +which remained dormant until Bishop Heber created a new feeling upon +the subject; and in this place especially, I cannot help regretting +that the powers of so great a mind should not have been devoted to +the promotion of the welfare of a country dependant upon England for +intellectual and moral improvement, and which, in the eyes of all +reflecting persons, must be looked upon as the strongest support of +England's ancient glory. + +The garden of the Horticultural Society, which occupies a convenient +space of ground near Parell, is yet in an infant state, but bids fair +in a short time to add very considerably to the pleasures of those +persons who take delight in the cultivation of flowers and fruits. +Many gentlemen are stimulating their gardeners to make great exertions +for the prizes, which it is expected will be chiefly carried away at +the ensuing meeting by exhibitors from the Deccan. Though there are +several very good gardens in the island, they are, according to all +accounts, greatly excelled in other parts of the presidency. + +The system of cultivation carried on by the Horticultural Society +will, no doubt, tend very considerably to their improvement, while the +new method of conveying plants to and from distant places, in boxes +covered with glass, will soon enrich all the gardens, both in India +and at home, with interesting exotics. Several of these cases, +filled with bulbous and other roots, under the inspection of Messrs. +Loddiges, have arrived at Parell, and been planted out in pots; the +eases will be returned, filled with equally valuable specimens of +Indian products; and thus a continual interchange may be kept up. + +I wished much to enrich the collection of foreign plants making by +the Royal Botanical Society of London, by some of the most interesting +specimens of Indian growth, feeling deeply interested in the success +of this institution; but not being a practical gardener myself, I have +as yet been unable to fulfil my intentions. I calculated, perhaps, +too strongly upon the desire of scientific people in Bombay to promote +objects of general utility at home, and see little chance, unless I +do every thing relating to the collecting, planting, packing, and +transmitting the plants with my own hands, of succeeding in sending +any thing to England. Indeed, I find a difficulty in procuring a +_hortus siccus_. + +As every body, who can possibly get away, leaves Bombay during the hot +weather and the rains, the residence at Malabar Point, intended as +a retreat in the sultry season, is seldom tenanted by the Governor's +family. The house, however, is not very often empty, being generally +occupied by some great person and his suite, such as newly-arrived +commanders-in-chief, who are accommodated at this establishment until +they can provide for themselves. The principal residence, and +several bungalows attached to it, are erected on the side of a hill +overlooking and washed by the sea. The views are beautiful, the +harbour affording at all times a scene of great liveliness and +interest, while the aerial summits of the hills in the distance, and +their purple splendours, complete the charm. The numerous fairy-like +skiffs, with their white sails, catching the sunlight, give life and +movement to the picture, while the cottages of the fishermen are often +placed with happy effect upon the neighbouring shore. + +There are, unfortunately, serious drawbacks to the enjoyment which +the eye derives from the gliding boats and palm-crowned huts; the +amusement of _yachting_ being seriously impeded by the method of +spreading nets, for the purpose of capturing the finny tribes, while, +in consequence of the immense quantity which is caught, the whole +island occasionally smells of fish. The fishermen have certain places +secured to them by law, in which they drive immense stakes, usually +the trunks of palm-trees, and between these stakes they fasten their +nets, any damage done to them by passing boats being punishable by a +fine; the navigation of the harbour, to those who wish to visit its +beautiful islands, is, in consequence, rather difficult, and would +scarcely admit of being carried on by those small steamers, which render +every place in the neighbourhood of Calcutta so accessible. + +The boats here, with the exception of private yachts, which are not +numerous, are a disgrace to a civilized place. Nothing can be easily +imagined to be worse than the pattamars usually employed for the +conveyance of troops and travellers to distant points; they are dirty, +many so low in the roof that the passengers cannot stand upright in +them, and filled with insects and vermin. + +The abundance and cheapness of fish render it the common food of the +lower classes, and consequently its effluvia sometimes pervade the +whole atmosphere. The smell of frying fish, with its accompaniment of +oil, is sufficiently disagreeable; but this is not all; a much more +powerful odour arises from fish drying for future use, while, as it +is commonly spread over the fields and employed as manure, the scents +wafted by the breezes upon these occasions breathe any thing but +perfume. + +There are many very delicate kinds of fish, which are held in great +esteem, to be seen at European tables; but, to a stranger, the +smell of the refuse allowed to decay is quite enough, and habit must +reconcile the residents of Bombay to this unpleasant assailant of +the olfactory nerves, before they can relish the finest specimens +of pomfret or other favourite. As it can always be purchased freshly +caught, fish appears at dinner as well as at the breakfast-table in +Bombay; the list of shell-fish includes oysters, which, though not +so tempting in their appearance as those of England, are of excellent +quality. + +The fishermen, like those of Europe, leave the sale of their fish to +their wives, who are said to be a busy, bustling, active race, quite +equal to the tasks which devolve upon them, and, in consequence of the +command which their occupation gives them over the pecuniary receipts +of the house, exerting a proportionate degree of authority. + +Fishermen's huts, though very picturesque, are not usually remarkable +for their neatness or their cleanliness, and those of Bombay form no +exception to their general appearance. They are usually surrounded by +a crowd of amphibious animals, in the shape of tribes of children, who +for the most part are perfectly free from the incumbrance of drapery. +Many, who have not a single rag to cover them, are, notwithstanding, +adorned with gold or silver ornaments, and some ingeniously transform +a pocket-handkerchief into a toga, or mantle, by tying two ends round +the throat, and leaving the remainder to float down behind, so that +they are well covered on one side, and perfectly bare on the other. +Amid the freaks of costume exhibited at Bombay, an undue preference +seems to be given to the upper portion of the person, which is +frequently well covered by a warm jacket with long sleeves, while the +lower limbs are entirely unclad. + +There is said to be cotton goods to the amount of a million sterling +lying in the godowns and warehouses of Bombay, unemployed, in +consequence of the stoppage of the China trade, and it seems a pity +that the multitudes who wear gold chains about their necks, and gold +ear-rings in their ears, could not be prevailed upon to exchange a +part of this metal for a few yards of covering of some kind or other, +of which apparently they stand much in need. + +Great numbers of the poorer classes seem to be ill-fed, ill-lodged, +and worse clothed; yet scantiness in this particular is certainly not +always the result of poverty, as the redundance of precious ornaments +above mentioned can witness. Neither does the wretched manner in which +many belonging to the lower orders of Bombay shelter themselves from +the elements appear to be an absolute necessity, and it is a pity that +some regulations should not be made to substitute a better method +of constructing the sheds in which so many poor people find a +dwelling-place. The precaution of raising the floor even a few inches +above the ground is not observed in these miserable hovels, and their +inhabitants, often destitute of bedsteads, sleep with nothing but a +mat, and perhaps not even that, between them and the bare earth. + +At this season of the year, when no rain falls, the palm-branches with +which these huts are thatched are so carelessly placed, as to present +large apertures, which expose the inmates to sun-beams and to dews, +both of which, so freely admitted into a dwelling, cannot fail to +produce the most injurious effects. Were these houses raised a foot or +two from the ground, and well roofed with the dry palm-branches, which +seem to supply so cheap and efficient a material, they would prove +no despicable abodes in a country in which only at one season of the +year, the rains, very substantial shelter is required. + +As it may be supposed, conflagrations are frequent in these hovels; +they are fortunately seldom attended with loss of life, or even of +much property, since the household furniture and wardrobes of the +family can be easily secured and carried off, while the people +themselves have nothing to do but to walk out. On these occasions, the +rats are seen to decamp in large troops, and gentlemen, returning +home from drives or parties, are often arrested by a fire, and by the +instructions they afford, do much towards staying the progress of the +flames, while the greater number of natives, Parsees in particular, +look quietly on, without offering to render the slightest assistance. +Whole clusters of huts are in this manner very frequently entirely +consumed; the mischief does not spread farther, and would be little to +be lamented should it lead to the entire demolition of dwelling-places +equally unsightly, and prejudicial to health. + +Much to my astonishment, I have seen, in the midst of these very +wretched tenements, one superior to the rest placed upon a platform, +with its verandah in front, furnished with chairs, and surrounded +by all the dirt and rubbish accumulated by its poverty-stricken +neighbours, miserable-looking children picking up a scanty +subsistence, and lean cats groping about for food. Such houses +are, besides, exposed to all the dangers of fire originating in +the adjoining premises; but apparently this circumstance has been +overlooked, together with the expediency of building a little apart +from the horrors of the surrounding abominations. This is the more +remarkable, from the contrast it affords to the air of comfort which +is so often manifest in the inferior dwellings of the natives of +Bombay. + +I often, in my drives, come upon a small patch of ground, well +cultivated, and boasting vegetables, fruits, and flowers, with a small +low-roofed house of unbaked mud in one corner, having a verandah all +round, well tiled and supported on bamboos. It is difficult under this +sloping roof to get a peep at the interior, but my efforts have been +rewarded by the sight of floors cleanly swept, bedsteads, and those +articles of furniture which can scarcely be dispensed with without +suffering considerable privation. + +As yet, I have not been able to discover to what class of persons +these kind of dwellings belong, but I suspect that they are tenanted +chiefly by Parsees, a money-getting and luxurious race of people, +who are sufficiently industrious to exert themselves, with great +perseverance, to gain a living, and have the spirit to spend their +money upon the comforts and conveniences of life. They are accused of +extravagance in this particular, and perhaps do occasionally exceed; +but, generally speaking, their style of living is more commendable +than that of the Hindus, who carry their thrift and parsimony to an +outrageous height. + +Near their houses very graceful groups of Parsee women and children +are to be seen, who, upon the encouragement afforded by a smile, +_salaam_ and smile again, apparently well-pleased with the notice +taken of them by English ladies. These women are always well-dressed, +and most frequently in silk of bright and beautiful colours, worn as +a _saree_ over a tight-fitting bodice of some gay material. The manner +in which the saree is folded over the head and limbs renders it a +graceful and becoming costume, which might be imitated with great +propriety by the Hindu women, who certainly do not appear to study +either taste or delicacy in their mode of dress. + +I may have made the remark before, for it is impossible to avoid the +recurrence of observations continually elicited by some new proofs of +the contrast between the women upon this side of India, and their more +elegant sisters on the banks of the Hooghly. Here all the women, the +Parsees excepted, who appear in public, have a bold masculine air; +any beauty which they may have ever possessed is effaced, in the very +lower orders, by hard work and exposure to the weather, while those +not subjected to the same disadvantages, and who occupy a better +situation, have little pretensions to good looks. Many are seen +employed in drawing water, or some trifling household work, wearing +garments of a texture which shews that they are not indebted to +laborious occupation for a subsistence; and while the same class in +Bengal would studiously conceal their faces, no trouble whatever +of the kind is taken here. They are possibly Mahrattas, which will +account for their carelessness; but I could wish that, with superior +freedom from absurd restraint, they had preserved greater modesty of +demeanour. + +The number of shops in the bazaars for the sale of one peculiar +ornament, common glass rings for bracelets, and the immense quantities +of the article, are quite surprising; all the native women wear these +bangles, which are made of every colour. The liqueur-shops are also +very common and very conspicuous, being distinguished by the brilliant +colours of the beverage shown through bottles of clear white glass. +What pretensions this rose and amber tinted fluid may have to compete +with the liqueurs most esteemed in Europe, I have not been able to +learn. Toddy-shops, easily recognised by the barrels they contain +upon tap, and the drinking-vessels placed beside them, seem almost as +numerous as the gin-palaces of London, arguing little for the sobriety +of the inhabitants of Bombay. In the drive home through the bazaar, +it is no very uncommon circumstance to meet a group of +respectably-dressed natives all as tipsy as possible. + +It is on account of the multitude of temptations held out by the +toddy-shops, that the establishment I have mentioned as the Sailors' +Home is so very desirable, by affording to those who really desire to +live comfortably and respectably, while on shore, the means of doing +both. Here they may enjoy the advantages of clean, well-ventilated +apartments, apparently, according to what can be seen through the open +windows, of ample size; and here they may, if they please, pass their +time in rational employment or harmless amusement. Groups of sun-burnt +tars, with their large straw hats and honest English faces, are often +to be seen mingled with the crowd of Asiatics, of whom every day seems +to show a greater variety. + +I saw three or four very remarkable figures last evening; one was an +extremely tall and handsome Arab, well dressed in the long embroidered +vest, enveloping an ample quantity of inner garments, which I have +so often seen, but of which I have not acquired the name, and with a +gaily-striped handkerchief placed above the turban, and hanging down +on either side of his face. This person was evidently a stranger, +for he came up to the carriage and stared into it with the strongest +expression of surprise and curiosity, our dress and appearance seeming +to be equally novel and extraordinary to this child of the desert. +Shortly afterwards, we encountered a Greek, with luxuriant black +ringlets hanging down from under a very small scarlet and gold cap; +the others were Jews, very handsome, well-dressed men, profusely +enveloped in white muslin, and with very becoming and peculiar caps on +their heads. + +I regret to see my old friends, the China-men, so few in number, and +so shabby in appearance; yet they are the only shoemakers here, and it +ought to be a thriving trade. Their sign-boards are very amusing; one +designating himself as "Old Jackson," while a rival, close at hand, +writes "Young Jackson" upon his placard; thus dividing the interest, +and endeavouring to draw custom from the more anciently established +firm. + +The Portuguese padres form striking and singular groups, being dressed +in long black gowns, fitting tightly to the shape, and descending to +their feet. They seem to be a numerous class, and I hope shortly +to see the interiors of some of their churches. A very large, +handsome-looking house was pointed out to us by one of the servants of +whom we made the inquiry, as belonging to a Portuguese padre; it +was situated near the cloth bazaar, and I regretted that I could not +obtain a better view of it. + +My predilection for exploring the holes and corners of the native town +is not shared by many of the Anglo-Indian residents of Bombay, who +prefer driving to the Esplanade, to hear the band play, or to a place +on the sea-shore called the Breach. I hope, however, to make a tour of +the villages, and to become in time thoroughly acquainted with all the +interesting points in the island, the variety and extent of the rides +and drives rendering them most particularly attractive to a traveller, +who finds something interesting in every change of scene. + +I have accomplished a second drive through the coco-nut gardens on the +Girgaum road, a name by which this quarter of the native town is +more commonly known; the view thus obtained only excited a desire to +penetrate farther into the cross-lanes and avenues; but as I do not +ride on horseback, I have little chance of succeeding, since I could +not see much from a palanquin, and taun-jauns, so common in Calcutta, +are scarcely in use here. The more I see of what is called the Native +Town in Bombay, the more satisfied I am of its great superiority +over that of Calcutta; and I gladly make this admission, since I have +found, and still continue to find, so great a falling-off in the style +of the dress, whether it relates to form, material, or cleanliness. I +have lately observed a very handsome turban, which seems worn both by +the Mohammedans and Hindus, of red muslin, with gold borders, which is +an improvement. + +A taste for flowers seems universal, plants in pots being continually +to be seen on the ledges of the porticoes and verandahs; these are +sometimes intermingled with less tasteful ornaments, and few things +have struck me as more incongruous than a plaster bust of a modern +English author, perched upon the top of a balustrade over the portico +of a house in the bazaar; mustachios have been painted above the +mouth, the head has been dissevered from the shoulders, and is now +stuck upon one side in the most grotesque manner possible, looking +down with half-tipsy gravity, the attitude and the expression of the +countenance favouring the idea, upon the strange groups thus oddly +brought into juxta-position. The exhibition is a droll one; but it +always gives me a painful feeling: I do not like to see the effigy of +a time-honoured sage abased. + +The statue of Lord Cornwallis, on the Esplanade--which, being +surrounded by sculptured animals, not, I think, in good taste, +might be mistaken for Van Amburgh and his beasts--is close to a spot +apparently chosen as a hackney-coach stand, every kind of the inferior +descriptions of native vehicles being to be found there in waiting. + +Some of the bullock-carriages have rather a classical air, and +might, with a little brushing up and decoration, emulate the ancient +triumphal car. They are usually dirty and shabby, but occasionally +we see one that makes a good picture. The bullocks that draw it are +milk-white, and have the hanging dewlap, which adds so greatly to the +appearance of the animal; the horns are painted blue, and the forehead +is adorned with a frontlet of large purple glass beads, while bouquets +of flowers are stuck on either side of the head, after the manner of +the rosettes worn by the horses in Europe. + +A very small pair of milk-white bullocks, attached to a carriage of +corresponding dimensions, merely containing a seat for two persons, +is a picturesque and convenient vehicle, which will rattle along the +roads at a very good pace. These bullocks usually have bells attached +to their harness, which keep up a perpetual and not disagreeable +jingle. The distances between the European houses are so great, +and the horses able to do so little work, that it seems a pity that +bullocks should not be deemed proper animals to harness to a shigram +belonging to the _saib logue_: but fashion will not admit the adoption +of so convenient a means of paying morning visits, and thus sparing +the horses for the evening drive. + +Great complaints are made about the high price and the inferiority of +the horses purchaseable in Bombay, a place in which the Arab is not +so much esteemed as I had expected. Some difficulty was experienced +in obtaining very fine specimens of this far-famed race for the Queen, +who gave a commission for them. I had the pleasure of seeing four that +are going home in the _Paget_, destined for her Majesty's stables. + +The Imaum of Muscat lately sent a present of horses to Bombay, but +they were not of high caste; those I have mentioned, as intended for +the Queen, being of a much finer breed. They are beautiful creatures, +and are to be put under the care of an English groom, who has the +charge of some English horses purchased in London for a native Parsee +gentleman. From the extent of the Arab stables, and the number of Arab +horse-merchants in Bombay, it would appear easy to have the choice +of the finest specimens; but this is not the case, while various +circumstances have combined to reduce the numbers of native horses, +which were formerly readily procurable. Thus, the fine breed of +Kattywar is not now attainable, and the same value does not appear to +be set upon horses from Kutch and the Deccan, which in other parts +of India are esteemed to be so serviceable. Persian horses are +little prized; and those imported from England, though very showy and +handsome, will not do much work in this climate, and are therefore +only suited to rich people, who can keep them for display. The +stud-horses bred near Poonah do not come into the market so freely as +in the Bengal presidency, where they are easily procurable, and are +sought after as buggy and carriage horses. Old residents, I am told, +prefer the Arabs, the good qualities of these celebrated steeds +requiring long acquaintance to be justly appreciated, while persons +new to the country can see nothing but faults in them. + +A novel feature in Bombay, to persons who have only visited the other +side of India, is found in the hay-stack, the people having discovered +the advantage of cutting and drying the grass for future use. Immense +numbers of carts, drawn by bullocks and loaded with hay, come every +day into the island; this hay is stacked in large enclosures built +for the purpose, and can be purchased in any quantity. There are large +open spaces, near tanks or wells, on the road-side, which give the +idea of a hay-market; the carts being drawn up, and the patient +bullock, always an accompaniment to an Indian rural scene, unyoked, +reposing on the ground. The drivers, apparently, do not seek the +shelter of a roof, but kindle their cooking-fires on the flats on the +opposite side of the road, and sleep at night under the shelter of +their carts. The causeway which unites the island of Bombay with +its neighbour, Salsette, affords a safe and convenient road, greatly +facilitating the carriage of supplies of various kinds necessary for +the consumption of so populous a place. + +The villagers at Metunga, and other places, make as much hay as their +fields will supply for their own use, and have hit upon a singular +method of stacking it. They choose some large tree, and lodge the hay +in its branches, which thus piled up, assumes the appearance of an +immense bee-hive. This precaution is taken to preserve the crop +from the depredations of cattle, and, if more troublesome, is less +expensive than fencing it round. From the miserably lean condition of +many of the unfortunate animals, which their Hindu masters worship and +starve, it would appear that, notwithstanding its seeming abundance, +they are very scantily supplied with hay. It is a pity that some +agriculturist does not suggest the expedience of feeding them upon +fish, which, as they are cleanly animals, they would eat while fresh. + + + + +CHAPTER XII. + + * * * * * + +BOMBAY--(_Continued_). + + * * * * * + + The Climate of Bombay treacherous in the cold season--The land-wind + injurious to health--The Air freely admitted into Rooms--The + Climate of the Red Sea not injurious to Silk dresses--Advice to + lady-passengers on the subject of dress--The Shops of Bombay badly + provided--Speculations on the site of the City, should the seat of + Government be removed hither--The Esplanade--Exercise of Sailors + on Shore and on Ship-board--Mock-fight--Departure of Sir Henry + Fane--Visit to a fair in Mahim Wood--Prophecy--Shrine of Mugdooree + Sahib--Description of the Fair--Visit to the mansion of a + Moonshee--His Family--Crowds of Vehicles returning from the + Fair--Tanks--Festival of the _Duwallee_--Visit to a Parsee--Singular + ceremony--The Women of India impede the advance of improvement--They + oppose every departure from established rules--Effect of Education in + Bombay yet superficial--Cause of the backwardness of Native Education. + + +Every day's experience of the climate of Bombay assures me that, in +what is called the cold season, at least, it is the most treacherous +in the world; and that, moreover, its dangers are not sufficiently +guarded against by the inhabitants. Cold weather, such as takes place +during the period from November to March, in all parts of Bengal, is +not felt here, the days being more or less sultry, and tempered only +by cold, piercing winds. + +The land-wind, which blows alternately with the sea-breezes, comes +fraught with all the influences most baneful to health; cramps, +rheumatic pains, even head-aches and indigestion, brought on by cold, +are the consequences to susceptible persons of exposure to this wind, +either during the day or the night: so severe and so manifold are +the pains and aches which attend it, that I feel strongly inclined to +believe that Bombay, and not "the vexed Bermoothes," was the island +of Prospero, and that the plagues showered upon Caliban still remain. +Though the progress of acclimation can scarcely fail to be attended by +danger to life or limb, the process, when completed, seems to be very +effectual, since little or no pains are taken by the old inhabitants +to guard against the evil. + +Some of the withdrawing-rooms of Bombay are perfectly open at either +end, and though the effect is certainly beautiful--a charming living +landscape of wood and water, framed in by the pillars at the angles of +the chamber--yet it is enjoyed at too great a risk. Dining-rooms are +frequently nearly as much exposed, the aim of everybody apparently +being to admit as great a quantity of air as possible, no matter from +what point of the compass it blows. Strangers, therefore, however +guarded they may be in their own apartments, can never emerge from +them without incurring danger, and it is only by clothing themselves +more warmly than can be at all reconciled with comfort, that they can +escape from rheumatic or other painful attacks. + +These land-winds are also very destructive to the goods and chattels +exposed to them; desks are warped and will not shut, leather gloves +and shoes become so dry that they shrink and divide, while all +unseasoned wood is speedily split across. It is said that the hot +weather is never so fierce in Bombay as in Bengal, the sea-breezes, +which sometimes blow very strongly, and are not so injurious as those +from the land, affording a daily relief. + +It may be necessary, for the advantage of succeeding travellers, +to say that, in passing down the Red Sea, in the autumn and winter +months, no danger need be apprehended from the effects of the climate +upon coloured silks. It was not possible for me to burthen myself with +tin cases, and I was obliged to put my wearing apparel, ribbons, &c, +into portmanteaus, with no other precaution than a wrapper of brown +paper. Nothing, however, was injured, and satin dresses previously +worn came out as fresh as possible: a circumstance which never happens +in the voyage round the Cape. + +And now, while upon the subject of dress, I will further say, that it +is advisable for ladies to bring out with them to Bombay every thing +they can possibly want, since the shops, excepting immediately after +the arrival of a ship, are very poorly provided, while the packs, for +few have attained to the dignity of tin boxes, brought about by the +hawkers, contain the most wretched assortment of goods imaginable. The +moment, therefore, that the cargo of a vessel hag been purchased +by the retail dealers, all that is really elegant or fashionable is +eagerly purchased, and the rejected articles, even should they be +equally excellent, when once consigned to the dingy precincts of +a Bombay shop, lose all their lustre. The most perfect bonnet that +Maradan ever produced, if once gibbeted in one of Muncherjee's +glass-cases, could never be worn by a lady of the slightest +pretensions. Goods to the amount of L300 were sold in one morning, +it is said, in the above-mentioned worthy's shop, and those who were +unable to pay it a visit on the day of the opening of the cases, must +either content themselves with the leavings, or wait the arrival of +another ship. + +It is but justice to Miss Lyndsay, the English milliner, to say that +she always appears to be well provided; but as her establishment +is the only one of the kind in Bombay, there must necessarily be a +sameness in the patterns of the articles made up. The want of +variety is the evil most strongly felt in Anglo-Indian toilets; and, +therefore, in preparing investments, large numbers of the same pieces +of silk ribbons should be avoided, nobody liking to appear in a +general uniform, or livery. + +The stoppage of the China trade has cut off one abundant source +of supply, of which the ladies of Bombay were wise enough to avail +themselves. It is difficult now to procure a morsel of China silk in +the shops, and there appears to be little chance of any goods of the +kind coming into the market, until the present differences between +Great Britain and the Celestial Empire shall be adjusted. With +the exception of the common and trifling articles brought about by +hawkers, every thing that is wanted for an Anglo-Indian establishment +must be sent for to the Fort, from which many of the houses are +situated, four, five, or six miles. + +As there are populous villages at Bycullah, Mazagong, &c, it seems +strange that no European bazaars have been established at these +intermediate places for the convenience of the inhabitants, who, with +the exception of a few fowls, do not usually keep much in the way of +a farmyard. With an increase in the number of inhabitants, of course +shops would start up in the most eligible situations, and should +the anticipated change take place, and Bombay become the seat of the +Supreme Government, the demands of the new establishment would no +doubt be speedily supplied. + +It is impossible, however idle the speculation may be, not to busy the +mind with fancies concerning the site of the city which it is supposed +would arise in the event of the Governor-general being instructed to +take up his abode at Bombay. The Esplanade has been mentioned as the +most probable place, although in building over this piece of ground +the island would, in a great measure, be deprived of its lungs, and +the enjoyment of that free circulation of air, which appears to be so +essential to the existence of Anglo-Indians, who seem to require the +whole expanse of heaven in order to breathe with freedom. The happy +medium between the want of air and its excess will not answer the +demand, and accordingly the Esplanade, no matter how strongly the +wind blows, is a favourite resort. Although its general features are +unattractive, it occasionally presents a very animated scene; the +review of the troops in the garrison is seen to great advantage, and +forms a spectacle always interesting and imposing. + +This mustering of the troops is occasionally varied by military +exercises of a more novel nature. The sailors of the flag-ship are +brought on shore, for the purpose of perfecting themselves in the +manual and platoon exercise, and in the performance of such military +evolutions as would enable them to co-operate successfully with a land +force, or to act alone with greater efficiency upon any emergency. +Though not possessing much skill in military affairs, I was pleased +with the ease and precision with which they executed the different +movements, their steadiness in marching, and the promptness with which +the line was dressed. They brought field-pieces on shore with them, +which, according to my poor judgment, were admirably worked. These +parades were the more interesting, in consequence of the expected war +with China, a war in which the sailors of the _Wellesley_ will, no +doubt, be actively engaged. + +I had also an opportunity of witnessing from the deck of that vessel, +when accompanying the Governor's party on board, the manoeuvring of +the ship's boats while landing a force. The mock fight was carried on +with great spirit, and the most beautiful effect; the flashing from +the guns in the bows of the boats and the musketry, amid the exquisite +blue smoke issuing from the smaller species of artillery, producing +fire-works which, in my opinion, could not be excelled by any of the +most elaborate construction. The features of the landscape, no doubt, +assisted to heighten the effect of the scene--a back-ground of lovely +purple islands--a sea, like glass, calmly, brightly, beautifully +blue--and the flotilla of boats, grouped as a painter would group +them, and carrying on a running fire, which added much to the +animation of their evolutions, the smoke occasionally enveloping the +whole in vapour, and then showing the eager forms of men, as it rolled +off in silvery clouds towards the distant hills. + +As I gazed upon this armament, and upon the palm-woods that fringed +the shore, I could not help calling to mind the lawless doings of the +buccaneers of old, and the terror spread through towns and villages +by the appearance of a fleet of boats, manned by resolute crews, and +armed with the most deadly weapons of destruction. The sight realized +also the descriptions given in modern novels of the capture of towns, +and I could easily imagine the great excitement which would lead +daring men to the execution of deeds, almost incredible to those who +have never felt their spirits stirred and their arms nerved by danger, +close, imminent, and only to be mastered by the mightiest efforts. + +When any _tamasha_, as the natives call it, is going on upon the +Esplanade, near the beach, they add very considerably to the effect of +the scene, by grouping themselves upon the bales of cotton, piled near +the wharf for exportation: those often appear to be a mass of human +beings, so thickly are they covered with eager gazers. Upon the +occasion of the departure of Sir Henry Fane to England, there appeared +to be a general turn-out of the whole of Bombay, and the effect was +impressive and striking. The road down to the Bunder, or place of +embarkation, was lined with soldiers, the bands of the different +regiments playing while the _cortege_ passed. All the ladies made +their appearance in open carriages, while the gentlemen mounted on +horseback, and joined the cavalcade. A large party of native gentlemen +assembled on foot at the Bunder, for the purpose of showing a last +mark of respect to a distinguished officer, about to leave the country +for ever. + +Sir Henry, accompanied by his staff, but all in plain clothes, drove +down the road in a barouche, attended by an escort of cavalry, and +seemed to be much affected by the tokens of esteem which he received +on every hand. He left the shore amidst the waving of handkerchiefs, +and a salute of seventeen guns, and would have been greeted with +hearty cheers, did military discipline allow of such manifestation of +the feelings. + +Sights and scenes like these will, of course, always attract numerous +spectators, while on the evenings in which the band plays, there is +a fair excuse for making the Esplanade the object of the drive; but +Bombay affords so many avenues possessing much greater beauty, that +I am always delighted when I can diversify the scene by a visit to +places not nearly so much in request, but which are to me infinitely +more interesting, as developing some charm of nature, or displaying +the habits and manners of the people of the country. With these +views and feelings, I was much pleased at receiving an invitation +to accompany some friends to a fair held in Mahim Wood--that sea of +palm-trees, which I had often looked down upon from Chintapootzlee +Hill with so much pleasure. + +The fair was held, as is usual in oriental countries, in honour of +a saint, whose canonized bones rest beneath a tomb apparently of +no great antiquity, but which the people, who are not the best +chronologists in the world, fancy to be of very ancient date. The +name of the celebrated person thus enshrined was Mugdooree Sahib, +a devotee, who added the gift of prophecy to his other high +qualifications, and amongst other things has predicted that, when the +town shall join the wood, Bombay shall be no more. The accomplishment +of what in his days must have appeared very unlikely ever to take +place--namely, the junction of inhabited dwellings with the trees of +Mahim--seems to be in rapid course of fulfilment; the land has been +drained, many portions formerly impassable filled up, and rendered +solid ground, while the houses are extending so fast, that the Burruh +Bazaar will in no very long period, in all probability, extend to +Mahim. Those who attach some faith to the prophecy, yet are unwilling +to believe that evil and not good will befal the "rising presidency," +are of opinion that some change of name will take place when it shall +be made the seat of the Supreme Government: thus the saint's credit +will be saved, and no misfortune happen to the good town of Bombay. +The superstitious of all persuasions, the Christians perhaps +excepted--though many of the Portuguese Christians have little more +than the name--unite in showing reverence to the shrine of the saint, +while Mugdooree Sahib is held quite as much in estimation by the +Hindus as by the followers of he own corrupted creed, the Mohammedans +of Bombay being by no means orthodox. + +Many respectable natives have built houses for themselves at Mahim, +on purpose to have a place for their families during the time of the +fair, while others hire houses or lodgings, for which they will pay +as much as twenty rupees for the few days that it lasts. A delightful +drive brought us to the confines of the wood; the whole way along, we +passed one continuous string of bullock-carriages, filled with people +of all tribes and castes, while others, who could not afford this mode +of conveyance, were seen in groups, trudging on foot, leading their +elder children, and carrying their younger in their arms. The road +wound very prettily through the wood, which at every turn presented +some charming bits of forest scenery, shown to great advantage in the +crimson light of evening, which, as it faded, produced those wild, +shadowy illusions, which lend enchantment to every view. Parasitical +plants, climbing up the trunks of many of the trees, and flinging +themselves in rich garlands from bough to bough, relieved the monotony +of the tall, straight palm-trees, and produced delicious green +recesses, the dearest charm of woodland scenery. + +I have frequently felt a strong desire to dwell under the shade of +forest boughs, for there is something in that sylvan kind of life so +redolent of the hunter's merry horn, the mating song of birds, and +the gurgling of secret rills, as to possess indescribable charms to a +lover of the picturesque. Now, however, experience in sober realities +having dispelled the illusions of romance, I should choose a cottage +in some cleared space by the wood-side, though at this dry season of +the year, and mid the perpetual sunshine of its skies, the heart of +Mahim Wood would form a very agreeable residence. + +The first house we came to was very comfortable, and almost English +in its appearance; a small, neat mansion, with its little court-yard +before it, such as we should not be surprised to see in some +old-fashioned country village at home. Straggling huts on either side +brought us to the principal street of Mahim, and here we found the +houses lighted, and lamps suspended, in imitation of bunches of +grapes, before all that were ambitious of making a good appearance. + +After passing the shops belonging to the village--the grain-sellers, +the pan-sellers, and other venders of articles in common demand--we +came to a series of booths, exactly resembling those used for the same +purpose in England, and well supplied with both native and foreign +products. The display was certainly much greater than any I had +expected to see. Some of the shops were filled with French, English, +and Dutch toys; others with China and glass ornaments; then came one +filled with coloured glass bangles, and every kind of native ornament +in talc and tinsel, all set off with a profusion of lights. Instead of +gingerbread, there were immense quantities of _metai_, or sweetmeats, +of different shapes and forms, and various hues; sugar rock-work, +pink, white, and yellow, with all sorts and descriptions of cakes. +The carriage moved slowly through the crowd, and at length, finding it +inconvenient to proceed farther in it, we alighted. + +Our party had come to Mahim upon the invitation of a very respectable +moonshee, who had his country-house there, and who was anxious to do +the honours of the fair to the English strangers, my friends, like +myself, being rather new to Bombay. We met the old gentleman at an +opening in the village, leading to the tomb of the saint, and his +offer to conduct us to the sacred shrine formed a farther inducement +to leave the carriage, and venture through the crowd on foot. + +The tomb, which was strongly illuminated, proved to be a white-washed +building, having a dome in the centre, and four minarets, one at each +angle, standing in a small enclosure, the walls of which were also +newly white-washed, and approached by a flight of steps, leading into +a portico. Upon either side of the avenue from the village were seated +multitudes of men and women, who, if not beggars by profession, made +no scruple to beg on this occasion. + +I felt at first sorry that I had neglected to bring any money with +me, but when I saw the crowd of applicants, whom it would have been +impossible to satisfy, and recollected that my liberality would +doubtless have been attributed to faith in the virtues of the saint, +I no longer regretted the omission. The steps of the tomb were lined +with these beggars, all vociferating at once, while other religious +characters were singing with all the power of their lungs, and a +native band, stationed in the verandah of the tomb, were at the same +time making the most hideous discord by the help of all kinds of +diabolical instruments. + +Having a magistrate of our party, we were well protected by the +police, who, without using any rudeness, kept the people off. So far +from being uncivil, the natives seemed pleased to see us at the fair, +and readily made way, until we came to the entrance of the chamber in +which, under a sarcophagus, the body of the saint was deposited. Here +we were told that we could proceed no farther, unless we consented to +take off our shoes, a ceremony with which we did not feel disposed +to comply, especially as we could see all that the chamber contained +through the open door, and had no intention to pay homage to the +saint. The sarcophagus, according to custom, was covered with a rich +pall, and the devout pressed forward to lay their offerings upon it. +These offerings consisted of money, cloths, grain, fruit, &c. nothing +coming amiss, the priests of the temple being quite ready to take the +gifts which the poorest could bestow. The beggars in the porch were +more clamorous than ever, the _maam sahibs_ being especially entreated +to bestow their charity. + +Having satisfied my curiosity, I was glad to get away into the fair, +where I found many things more interesting. Convenient spaces in the +wood were filled with merry-go-rounds, swings, and other locomotive +machinery, of precisely the same description as those exhibited in +England, and which I had seen in Hyde Park at the fair held there, in +honour of Queen Victoria. Mahim Wood boasted no theatres or wild-beast +shows, neither were we treated with the sight of giants or dwarfs; but +there was no want of booths for the purpose of affording refreshment. +One of these _cafes_, the front of which was entirely open, was most +brilliantly illuminated, and filled with numerous tables, covered with +a multitude of good things. That it was expected to be the resort +of English guests was apparent, from an inscription painted in white +letters, rather askew, upon a black board, to the following effect: +"Tea, Coffee, and Pastry-House." + +We were invited to enter this splendid establishment by the moonshee, +who had evidently ordered a refection to be prepared for the occasion. +Being unwilling to disappoint the old gentleman, we took the seats +offered to us, and ate the cakes, and drank the coffee, presented by +some respectable-looking Parsees, the owners of the shop, which they +had taken pains to set off in the European style. Although the natives +of India will not eat with us, as they know that we do not scruple +to partake of food prepared for their tables, they are mortified and +disappointed at any refusal to taste the good things set before us; +the more we eat, the greater being the compliment. I was consequently +obliged to convey away some of the cakes in my handkerchief, to avoid +the alternatives of making myself ill or of giving offence. + +When we were sufficiently rested and refreshed, we followed the +moonshee to his mansion. The moon was at the full, and being at this +time well up, lighted us through the less thronged avenues of the +village, these tangled lanes, with the exception of a few candles, +having no other illumination. Here, seated in corners upon the ground, +were the more humble traders of the fair, venders of fruit, the larger +kind being divided into slices for the convenience of poor customers. +In one spot, a group of dissipated characters were assembled round +bottles and drinking-vessels (of which the contents bore neither the +colour nor the smell of sherbet), who were evidently determined to +make a night of it over the fermented juice of the palm. From what I +have seen, I am inclined to believe sobriety to be as rare a virtue +in Bombay as in London; toddy-shops appear to be greatly upon the +increase, and certainly in every direction there are already ample +means of gratifying a love of spirituous liquors. In other places, the +usual occupation of frying fish was going on, while a taste for sweet +things might be gratified by confectionary of an ordinary description +compared with that exhibited in the shops. + +As we receded from the fair, the bright illumination in the distance, +the twinkling lights in the fore-ground, dimly revealing dusky figures +cowering round their fires, and the dark depths of the wood beyond, +with now and then a gleam of moonshine streaming on its tangled paths, +made up a landscape roll of scenic effects. Getting deeper and deeper +into the wood, we came at last to a small modest mansion, standing in +the corner of a garden, and shadowed by palm-trees, through which the +moon-beams chequered our path. We did not enter the house, contenting +ourselves with seats in the verandah, where the children of our host, +his wife or wives not making their appearance, were assembled. The +elder boys addressed us in very good English, and were, the moonshee +told us, well acquainted with the Guzerattee and Mahratta languages; +he had also bestowed an education upon his daughters, who were taught +to read in the vernacular. + +The old man told us that he was born in Mahim Wood at the time of the +festival, and, though a Hindu, had had the name of Mugdooree, that +of the saint, bestowed upon him, for a good omen. Having a great +affection for his native place, he had, as soon as he could command +the means, built the house which we now saw, and in which he always +resided during the fair, which was called _oories_, or the Mugdooree +Sahib's _oories_, at Mahim. After sitting some time with the old man, +and admiring the effect of the moonlight among the palm-trees, we rose +to depart. In taking leave of the spot, I could not repress a wish to +see it under a different aspect, although it required very slight aid +from fancy to picture it as it would appear in the rains, with mildew +in the drip of those pendant palm branches, green stagnant pools in +every hollow, toads crawling over the garden paths, and snakes lurking +beneath every stone. + +Returning to the place in which we had left the carriage, we found +the fair more crowded than ever, the numbers of children, if possible, +exceeding those to be seen at English places of resort of the same +nature. The upper rooms of the superior houses, many of which seemed +to be large and handsome, were well lighted and filled with company, +many of the most respectable amongst the Hindus, Mohammedans, and +Parsees, repairing to Mahim, to recreate themselves during the +festival. The shops had put on even a gayer appearance, and though +there was no rich merchandize to be seen, the character of the meeting +being merely that of a rustic fair, I was greatly surprised by +the elegance of some of the commodities, and the taste of their +arrangement. + +It was evident that all the purchasers must be native, and +consequently I could not help feeling some astonishment at the large +quantities of expensive European toys with which whole booths were +filled. Dolls, which were to me a novelty in my late visit to Paris, +with real hair dressed in the newest fashion, were abundant; and so +were those excellent representations of animals from Germany, known by +the name of "Barking toys." The price of these things, demanded of our +party at least, was high. I had wished to possess myself of something +as a remembrance of this fair, but as the old moonshee was the only +individual amongst us who carried any money about him, I did not like +him to become my banker on this occasion, lest he should not permit me +to pay him again, and I should by this means add to the disbursements +already made upon our account. + +Upon leaving the fair, we found some difficulty in steering our way +through the bullock-carriages which almost blocked up the road, and +as we drove along the grand thoroughfare towards Girgaum, a populous +portion of the native town, the visitants seemed to increase; cart +followed upon cart in quick succession, all the bullocks in Bombay, +numerous as they are, appearing to have been mustered for the +occasion. + +In the different drives which I have taken through the island, I +have come upon several fine tanks, enclosed by solid masonry of +dark-coloured stone; but, with the exception, in some instances, of +one or two insignificant pillars or minarets, they are destitute of +those architectural ornaments which add so much splendour to the same +works in Bengal. The broad flights of steps, the richly decorated +temple, or the range of small pagodas, so frequently to be seen by +the side of the tanks and bowlies in other parts of India, are here +unknown; the more ancient native buildings which I have yet examined +being, comparatively speaking, of a mean and paltry description, while +all the handsome modern houses are built after the European manner. +There is one feature, however, with which I am greatly pleased--the +perpetual recurrence of seats and ledges made in the walls which +enclose gentlemen's gardens and grounds, or run along the roads, and +which seem to be intended as places of repose for the wayfarer, or as +a rest to his burthen. + +It is always agreeable to see needful accommodation afforded to +the poor and to the stranger; public benefits, however trifling, +displaying liberality of mind in those who can give consideration to +the wants and feelings of multitudes from whom they can hope for +no return. These seats frequently occur close to the gate of some +spacious dwelling, and may be supposed to be intended for the servants +and dependants of the great man, or those who wait humbly on the +outside of his mansion; but they as frequently are found upon the high +roads, or by the side of wells and tanks. + +The festival of the _Duwallee_ has taken place since my arrival +in Bombay, and though I have seen it celebrated before, and more +splendidly in one particular--namely, the illuminations--I never had +the same opportunity of witnessing other circumstances connected with +ceremonies performed at the opening of the new year of the Hindus. +When I speak of the superiority of the illuminations, I allude to +their taste and effect; there were plenty of lights in Bombay, but +they were differently disposed, and did not mark the outline of the +buildings in the beautiful manner which prevails upon the other side +of India, every person lighting up his own house according to his +fancy. Upon the eve of the new year, while driving through the bazaar, +we saw preparations for the approaching festival; many of the houses +were well garnished with lamps, the shops were swept and put into +order, and the horns of the bullocks were garlanded with flowers, +while fire-works, and squibs and crackers, were going off in all +directions. + +On the following evening, I went with a party of friends, by +invitation, to the house of a native gentleman, a Parsee merchant of +old family and great respectability, and as we reached the steps of +his door, a party of men came up with sticks in their hands, answering +to our old English morice-dancers. These men were well clad in white +dresses, with flowers stuck in their turbans; they formed a circle +somewhat resembling the figure of _moulinet_, but without joining +hands, the inner party striking their sticks as they danced round +against those on the outer ring, and all joining in a rude but not +unmusical chorus. The gestures of these men, though wild, were neither +awkward nor uncouth, the sticks keeping excellent time with the song +and with the action of their feet. After performing sundry evolutions, +and becoming nearly out of breath, they desisted, and called upon the +spectators to reward their exertions. Having received a present, they +went into the court-yard of the next mansion, which belonged to one of +the richest native merchants in Bombay, and there renewed their dance. + +We found in the drawing-room of our host's house a large company +assembled. The upper end was covered with a white cloth, and all +round, seated on the floor against the walls, were grave-looking +Parsees, many being of advanced years. They had their books and +ledgers open before them, the ceremony about to be commenced +consisting of the blessing or consecration of the account-books, +in order to secure prosperity for the ensuing year. The officiating +priests were brahmins, the custom and the festival--of which Lacshmee, +the goddess of wealth, is the patroness--being purely Hindu. + +The Parsees of India, sole remnant of the ancient fire-worshippers, +have sadly degenerated from that pure faith held by their forefathers, +and for which they became fugitives and exiles. What persecution +failed to accomplish, kindness has effected, and their religion has +been corrupted by the taint of Hinduism, in consequence of their long +and friendly intercourse with the people, who permitted them to dwell +in their land, and to take their daughters in marriage. Incense was +burning on a tripod placed upon the floor, and the priests muttering +prayers, which sounded very like incantations, ever and anon threw +some new perfume upon the charcoal, which produced what our friend +Dousterswivel would call a "suffumigation." These preliminaries over, +they caused each person to write a few words in the open book before +him, and then threw upon the leaves a portion of grain. After this had +been distributed, they made the circle again, and threw gold leaf upon +the volumes; then came spices and betel-nut, cut in small pieces, +and lastly flowers, and a profusion of the red powder (_abeer_) so +lavishly employed in Hindu festivals. More incense was burned, and +the ceremony concluded, the merchants rising and congratulating +each other. Formerly, when our host was a more wealthy man than, in +consequence of sundry misfortunes, he is at present, he was in the +habit of disbursing Rs. 10,000 in gifts upon this day: everybody that +came to the house receiving something. + +The custom of blessing the books, after the Hindu manner, will in all +probability shortly decline among the Parsees, the younger portion +being already of opinion that it is a vain and foolish ceremony, +borrowed from strangers; and, indeed, the elders of the party were +at some pains to convince me that they merely complied with it in +consequence of a stipulation entered into with the Hindus, when +they granted them an asylum, to observe certain forms and ceremonies +connected with their customs, assuring me that they did not place any +reliance upon the favour of the goddess, looking only for the blessing +of God to prosper their undertakings. + +This declaration, however, was somewhat in contradiction to one +circumstance, which I omitted to mention, namely, that before the +assembled Parsees rose from the floor, they permitted the officiating +brahmins to mark their foreheads with the symbol of the goddess, thus +virtually admitting her supremacy. The lamps were then lighted, and +we were presented with the usual offering of bouquets of roses, +plentifully bedewed with _goolabee panee_, or the distilled tears of +the flower, to speak poetically; and having admired the children of +the family, who were brought out in their best dresses and jewels, +took our leave. The ladies, the married daughters and daughters-in-law +of our host, did not make their appearance upon this occasion; for, +though not objecting to be seen in public, they are not fond of +presenting themselves in their own houses before strangers. + +It is the women of India who are at this moment impeding the advance +of improvement; they have hitherto been so ill-educated, their minds +left so entirely uncultivated, that they have had nothing to amuse +or interest them excepting the ceremonies of their religion, and the +customs with which it is encumbered. These, notwithstanding that many +are inconvenient, and others entail much suffering, they are unwilling +to relinquish. Every departure from established rule, which their +male relatives deem expedient, they resolutely oppose, employing the +influence which women, however contemned as the weaker vessel, always +do possess, and always will exert, in perpetuating all the evils +resulting from ignorance. The sex will ever be found active either +in advancing or retarding great changes, and whether this activity be +employed for good or for evil, depends upon the manner in which their +intellectual faculties have been trained and cultivated. + +It appears to me that, although education is making great progress in +Bombay, all it has yet accomplished of good appears upon the surface, +it not having yet wrought any radical change in the feelings and +opinions of the people, or, excepting in few instances, directing +their pursuits to new objects. I give this opinion, however, with +great diffidence--merely as an impression which a longer residence +in Bombay may remove; meanwhile, I lose no opportunity of acquainting +myself with the native community, and I hope to gather some +interesting information relative to the probable effects of the system +now adopting at the different national schools. + +As far as I can judge, a little of Uncle Jonathan's fervour in +progressing is wanting here; neither the Anglo-Indian or native +residents seem to manifest the slightest inclination to "go ahead;" +and while they complain loudly of the apathy evinced at home to all +that concerns their advantage and prosperity, are quite content to +drowze over their old _dustoors_ (customs), and make no attempt to +direct the public attention in England to subjects of real importance. + +Though unwilling to indulge in premature remarks, these are pressed +upon me by the general complaints which I hear upon all sides; but +though everybody seems to lament the evil, no one exerts himself to +effect a remedy, and while much is talked of individually, little is +done by common consent. One great bar to improvement consists, I am +told, of the voluminous nature of the reports upon all subjects, which +are heaped together until they become so hopelessly bulky, that nobody +can be prevailed upon to wade through them. In England, at all public +meetings, a great deal of time and breath are wasted in superfluous +harangues; but these can only effect the remote mischief threatened by +Mr. Babbage, and produce earthquakes and other convulsions in distant +lands, in distant centuries; whereas the foolscap is a present and a +weighty evil, and has probably swamped more systems of improvement, +and more promising institutions, than any other enemy, however active. + +The intellectual community of India seems yet to have to learn the +advantage of placing all that relates to it in a clear, succinct, and +popular form, and of bringing works before the British public which +will entertain as well as instruct, and lead those who are employed +in legislating for our Eastern territories to inquire more deeply into +those subjects which so materially affect its political, moral, and +commercial prosperity. + + +FINIS. + + + + + + + + + + + +End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Notes of an Overland Journey Through +France and Egypt to Bombay, by Miss Emma Roberts + +*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK AN OVERLAND JOURNEY *** + +***** This file should be named 12064.txt or 12064.zip ***** +This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: + https://www.gutenberg.org/1/2/0/6/12064/ + +Produced by Paul Murray, Leah Moser and the Online Distributed +Proofreading Team. + + +Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions +will be renamed. + +Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no +one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation +(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without +permission and without paying copyright royalties. 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