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diff --git a/.gitattributes b/.gitattributes new file mode 100644 index 0000000..6833f05 --- /dev/null +++ b/.gitattributes @@ -0,0 +1,3 @@ +* text=auto +*.txt text +*.md text diff --git a/12046-0.txt b/12046-0.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..6a518f9 --- /dev/null +++ b/12046-0.txt @@ -0,0 +1,18308 @@ +*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 12046 *** + +PROJECT GUTENBERG ETEXT OF SURVEY OF THE INTERTROPICAL COASTS +OF AUSTRALIA BY P.P. KING VOLUME 2. + + +NARRATIVE OF A SURVEY + +OF THE + +INTERTROPICAL AND WESTERN + +COASTS OF AUSTRALIA. + +PERFORMED BETWEEN + +THE YEARS 1818 AND 1822. + +BY + +CAPTAIN PHILLIP P. KING, R.N., F.R.S., F.L.S., + +AND MEMBER OF THE ROYAL ASIATIC SOCIETY OF LONDON. + +WITH +AN APPENDIX, +CONTAINING +VARIOUS SUBJECTS RELATING TO HYDROGRAPHY AND NATURAL HISTORY. + + +IN TWO VOLUMES, +ILLUSTRATED BY PLATES, CHARTS, AND WOOD-CUTS. + +VOLUME 2. + +LONDON: +JOHN MURRAY, ALBEMARLE STREET. + + + + + +CONTENTS. + + +VOLUME 2. + + +CHAPTER 1. +Survey upon the mermaid. +Purchase another vessel. +New establishment. +Departure on the fourth voyage, accompanied by a merchant-ship + bound through Torres Strait. +Discovery of an addition to the crew. +Pass round Breaksea Spit, and steer up the East Coast. +Transactions at Percy Island. +Enormous sting-rays. +Pine-trees serviceable for masts. +Joined by a merchant brig. +Anchor under Cape Grafton, Hope Islands, and Lizard Island. +Natives at Lizard Island. +Cape Flinders. +Visit the Frederick's wreck. +Surprised by natives. +Mr. Cunningham's description of the drawings of the natives in + a cavern on Clack's Island. +Anchor in Margaret Bay, and under Cairncross Island. +Accident, and loss of anchors. +Pass through Torres Strait, and visit Goulburn Island. +Affair with the natives. +The Dick parts company. + + +CHAPTER 2. +Passage from Cape Van Diemen to Careening Bay. +Not finding water, visit Prince Regent's River, and procure it + from the Cascade. +Farther examination of the river. +Amphibious mud-fish. +Anchor in Halfway Bay, and explore Munster Water and Hanover Bay + in a boat. +Visit Hanover Bay, and procure water and fish. +Interview with natives. +The surgeon speared. +Retaliate upon them, and capture their rafts and weapons. +Description of their implements. +Port George the Fourth. +Islands to the westward. +Red Island of Captain Heywood. +Strong tides. +Camden Bay. +Buccaneer's Archipelago. +Cygnet Bay. +Dangerous situation of the brig. +High and rapid tides. +Cape Leveque. +Examination of the coast to Cape Latouche Treville. +Remarkable effect of mirage. +Leave the coast for Mauritius. +Voyage thither. +Arrival at Port Louis. +Refit. +Some account of the island. + + +CHAPTER 3. +Departure from Port Louis. +Voyage to the South-west Coast of New Holland. +Anchor in King George the Third's Sound. +Occurrences there. +Visited by the Natives. +Our intercourse with them. +Descriptions of their weapons and other implements. +Vocabulary of their language. +Meteorological and other observations. +Edible plants. +Testaceous productions. + + +CHAPTER 4. +Leave King George the Third's Sound, and commence the survey of + the West Coast at Rottnest Island. +Another remarkable effect of mirage. +Anchor under, and land upon Rottnest Island. +Break an anchor. +Examine the coast to the northward. +Cape Leschenault. +Lancelin Island. +Jurien Bay. +Houtman's Abrolhos. +Moresby's Flat-topped Range. +Red Point. +Anchor in Dirk Hartog's Road, at the entrance of Shark's Bay. +Occurrences there. +Examination of the coast to the North-west Cape. +Barrow Island. +Heavy gale off the Montebello Isles. +Rowley's Shoals. +Cape Leveque. +Dangerous situation of the brig among the islands of Buccaneer's + Archipelago. +Examination and description of Cygnet Bay. +Lose an anchor, and leave the coast. +Adele Island. +Return to Port Jackson. + + +CHAPTER 5. +The Bathurst sails for England. +Remarks upon some errors in the hydrography of the south coast + of Van Diemen's Land. +King George the Third's Sound. +Passage to the Cape of Good Hope. +Cross the Atlantic, and arrive at Plymouth Sound. +Observations upon the voyages, and conclusion. + + +APPENDIX A. + + +SECTION 1. + +Of the winds and currents, and description of the ports, islands, + and coast between Port Jackson and Breaksea Spit. + + +SECTION 2. + +Description of the winds and weather, and of the ports, islands, + and coast between Breaksea Spit and Cape York. + + +SECTION 3. + +Description of the winds and weather, and of the ports and coast + between Wessel's Islands and Clarence Strait. + + +SECTION 4. + +Of the nature of the winds and the description of the coast between + Clarence Strait and the North-west Cape. + + +SECTION 5. + +Of the winds and weather, and description of the Western Coast + between the North-west Cape and Cape Leeuwin. + + +SECTION 6. + +Of the winds and weather upon the South Coast. Directions for + King George the Third's Sound, and hydrographical remarks + relating to Bass Strait. + + +SECTION 7. + +Description of the shoals and reefs in the neighbourhood of the + coasts of Australia. + + +SECTION 8. + +Directions for the passage within the reefs through Torres Strait. + + +SECTION 9. + +Dip of the magnetic needle. + + +SECTION 10. + +Upon the geographical positions of the fixed points of the survey. + + +APPENDIX B. + +Containing a list and description of the subjects of natural history + collected during Captain King's survey of the Intertropical + and Western Coasts of Australia. + + +APPENDIX C. + +Geology. + + +APPENDIX D. + +Language of the Natives. + + +LIST OF PLATES. + + +VOLUME 2. + + +ENTRANCE OF OYSTER HARBOUR, KING GEORGE THE THIRD'S SOUND. +Interview with the Natives. +From a sketch by P.P. King. Published in May 1825 by John Murray, + London. + +WOODCUT 1: NATIVES OF HANOVER BAY ON A RAFT. + +VIEW OF THE CASCADE IN PRINCE REGENT'S RIVER. +From a sketch by P.P. King. Published in May 1825 by John Murray, + London. + +WEAPONS ETC. OF THE NATIVES OF HANOVER BAY. + +1. Stone Spear Head (Full size.) From a Drawing by F. Chantrey, + Esquire, F.R.S. + +2. Section of a Stone Spear Head (Full size.) From a Drawing by + F. Chantrey, Esquire, F.R.S. + +3. Spear armed with the Stone head. + +4. Throwing-stick. + +5. Hatchet. + +Published in May 1825 by John Murray, London. + +WOODCUT 2: RAFT OF THE NATIVES OF HANOVER BAY. + +WOODCUT 3: WEAPONS AND IMPLEMENTS OF THE NATIVES OF KING GEORGE + THE THIRD'S SOUND: MEARA OR THROWING-STICK. + +WOODCUT 4: WEAPONS AND IMPLEMENTS OF THE NATIVES OF KING GEORGE + THE THIRD'S SOUND: METHOD OF PROPULSION OF SPEAR BY A MEARA + OR THROWING-STICK. + +WOODCUT 5: WEAPONS AND IMPLEMENTS OF THE NATIVES OF KING GEORGE + THE THIRD'S SOUND: KAOIT OR HAMMER. + +WOODCUT 6: WEAPONS AND IMPLEMENTS OF THE NATIVES OF KING GEORGE + THE THIRD'S SOUND: TAAP OR KNIFE. + +CHART OF PORT COCKBURN AT MELVILLE ISLAND. +Plan of Port Cockburn, between Bathurst and Melville Islands. +From a survey made by Lieutenant J.S. ROE in October 1824. + +VIEW OF FORT DUNDAS, TAKEN FROM GARDEN POINT. + +PLAN OF KING'S COVE. + +SKETCH 1: ISLANDS OFF ADMIRALTY GULF, LOOKING SOUTHWARD FROM THE + NORTH-EAST END OF CASSINI ISLAND. +Left to right: Corneille, Fenelon, Descartes, and Pascal Islands, + Hills on Cape Voltaire, Condillac Island, and East end of + Cassini Island (Peron's Atlas, plate 6, figure 7) and the + outline of the Iles Forbin (Peron's Atlas, plate 8, figure 5). + +SKETCH 2: ISLANDS OFF ADMIRALTY GULF, LOOKING SOUTHWARD FROM THE + NORTH-EAST END OF CASSINI ISLAND. +Left to right: Peak upon Cape Voltaire and Condillac Island, + bearing South, two miles distant. +Several drawings of Captain King. + +SKETCH 3: TWO CONSPICUOUS HILLS NORTH-EAST OF PRINCE-REGENT'S RIVER. +Left to right: Mount Trafalgar and Mount Waterloo. + +MAP OF THE CHAINS OF ISLANDS ON THE NORTH-WEST COAST OF CARPENTARIA: +In English Miles. +A. Castlereagh Bay. +B. Point Dale. +C. Arnhem Bay. +D. Melville Bay. +E. Cape Arnhem. +F. Caledon Bay. +1, 1 etc. Wessel's Islands. +2, 2 etc. The English Company's Islands. +3. Red Cliffs. +4. Mallison's Island. +5. Cape Newbold. +6. Cape Wilberforce. +7. Bromby's Islands. + +SKETCH 4: CLIFF OF CONSIDERABLE HEIGHT, IN WHICH THE BEDS, THOUGH + INACCESSIBLE AT THE TOP, MAY BE EXAMINED WITH EASE AND SECURITY, + WHERE THEY COME DOWN TO THE SHORE. + +SKETCH 5: HAMMER FOR COLLECTING GEOLOGICAL SPECIMENS. + +SKETCH 6: SMALL HAMMER FOR TRIMMING GEOLOGICAL SPECIMENS. + +SKETCH 7: SMALL STONE-CUTTER'S CHISEL. + +PLATES AT THE END OF THE VOLUME, REFERRED TO IN THE APPENDIX. + +TABLE A. +Chlamydosaurus kingii. +The plate was engraved by Mr. Curtis, from an exceedingly correct + drawing made by Henry C. Field, Esquire. Fel. Coll. Surg. +Published by John Murray, Albemarle Street, March, 1826. + +TABLE B. +Carpophagus banksiae. +Megamerus kingii. +Phasma tiaratum. +Drawn by Miss M.L. Field. J. Curtis sculp. +Published by John Murray, Albemarle Street, March, 1826. + +TABLE C. +Kingia Australis. +Curtis, Id et sculp. +Published by John Murray, Albemarle Street. + +... + + + +VOYAGES FOR THE SURVEY OF THE INTERTROPICAL COASTS OF AUSTRALIA. + + +CHAPTER 1. +Survey upon the mermaid. +Purchase another vessel. +New establishment. +Departure on the fourth voyage, accompanied by a merchant-ship + bound through Torres Strait. +Discovery of an addition to the crew. +Pass round Breaksea Spit, and steer up the East Coast. +Transactions at Percy Island. +Enormous sting-rays. +Pine-trees serviceable for masts. +Joined by a merchant brig. +Anchor under Cape Grafton, Hope Islands, and Lizard Island. +Natives at Lizard Island. +Cape Flinders. +Visit the Frederick's wreck. +Surprised by natives. +Mr. Cunningham's description of the drawings of the natives in a + cavern on Clack's Island. +Anchor in Margaret Bay, and under Cairncross Island. +Accident, and loss of anchors. +Pass through Torres Strait, and visit Goulburn Island. +Affair with the natives. +The Dick parts company. + +1820. December 6. + +As soon as the opportunity offered after our arrival, the cutter was laid +on shore upon the beach of Sydney Cove, and surveyed by the master and +the carpenter of H.M. Store-Ship Dromedary, which ship was preparing for +her return to England with a cargo of New Zealand spars. Upon stripping +the copper off the bottom, the tide flowed into her, and proved that to +the copper sheathing alone we were indebted for our safe return. The iron +spikes that fastened her were entirely decayed, and a considerable repair +was recommended by the surveying officers. Upon my communicating the +result of their report to His Excellency, Governor Macquarie, he agreed +with me in thinking that, as her repairs would take up so much time, it +would be better to purchase another vessel, and as a brig was then in the +harbour, that appeared to be every way suited for my purpose, she was +examined by my order by Mr. Mart, the Dromedary's carpenter, who reported +so favourably of her, that, by the governor's permission, she was +purchased and fitted for the voyage. She was built of teak, of one +hundred and seventy tons burden, and had lately received a very +considerable repair at Calcutta; so that, excepting a few trifling +defects and alterations, she was quite fit for sea. Her name was altered +at the suggestion of Governor Macquarie to that of the Bathurst. + +By this change we gained a great addition to our comforts; and, besides +increasing the number of our crew, were much better off in regard to +boats; for we now possessed a long-boat, large enough to carry out and +weigh an anchor, or save the crew if any accident should happen to the +vessel; a resource which we did not possess in the Mermaid. + +A further addition was made to our party by the appointment of Mr. +Perceval Baskerville, one of the Dromedary's midshipman; but Mr. Hunter +the surgeon, who had volunteered his services in the Mermaid during the +last voyage, was superseded by Mr. A. Montgomery, who had lately arrived +in charge of a convict ship. + +Our establishment now consisted of the following officers and men: + +Lieutenant and Commander: Phillip Parker King. + +Surgeon: Andrew Montgomery. + +Master's Mates (Assistant Surveyors): +Frederick Bedwell. +John S. Roe. + +Midshipman: Perceval Baskerville. + +Botanical Collector: Allan Cunningham. + +Steward. + +Boatswain's Mate. + +Carpenter's Mate. + +Sail Maker. + +Cook. + +Seamen: 16. + +Boys: 5. + +Total: 32. + +1821. May 26. + +After experiencing many tedious and unexpected delays in equipping the +Bathurst, notwithstanding our wants were few, and the greater part of our +repairs were effected by our own people, we were not completed for sea +until the 26th of May, when we sailed from Port Jackson upon our fourth +and last voyage to the north coast, accompanied by the merchant-ship Dick +(the same vessel in which we had originally embarked from England): she +was bound to Batavia, and being ready for sailing at the time of our +departure, requested permission to accompany us through Torres Strait, +which, since it would rather prove an assistance to us than cause any +delay in our proceedings, was acceded to on my part with much +satisfaction. In the mean time the Mermaid, our late vessel, had been +thoroughly repaired, fresh fastened with copper spikes, and fitted out; +and, before we sailed, had been sent to sea to carry the first +establishment to Port Macquarie, on which service she had been wrecked. +She was, however, afterwards got off the rocks and repaired, and is now a +very serviceable vessel in the colony. + +Boongaree, the native who had formerly accompanied us, volunteered his +services whilst the vessel was preparing for the voyage, which I gladly +accepted; but when the day of departure drew nigh, he kept aloof; and the +morning that we sailed, his place was filled by another volunteer, +Bundell; who proved not only to be a more active seaman, but was of much +greater service to us, than his countryman Boongaree had been. This +addition made our number thirty-three. + +May 30. + +Three days after we left the port, a discovery was made of another +addition to the number of the crew. Upon opening the hold, which had been +locked ever since the day before we sailed, a young girl, not more than +fourteen years of age, was found concealed among the casks, where she had +secreted herself in order to accompany the boatswain to sea: upon being +brought on deck, she was in a most pitiable plight, for her dress and +appearance were so filthy, from four days' close confinement in a dark +hold, and from having been dreadfully seasick the whole time, that her +acquaintances, of which she had many on board, could scarcely recognise +her. Upon being interrogated, she declared she had, unknown to all on +board, concealed herself in the hold the day before the vessel sailed; +and that her swain knew nothing of the step she had taken. As it was now +inconvenient to return to put her on shore, and as the man consented to +share his ration with her, she was allowed to remain; but in a very short +time heartily repented of her imprudence, and would gladly have been +re-landed, had it been possible. + +1821. June 4. + +Between the 30th and the 4th of June we had a series of gales of wind, +which enabled us to prove the capabilities of our new ship; and it was +very satisfactory to find that she was weatherly, tight, and dry, three +very essential qualities for a surveying vessel. + +June 5. + +On the afternoon of the 5th we passed round the north end of Breaksea +Spit, and crossed Hervey's Bay; in the night, when the brig ought to have +been many miles from the shore, we found ourselves unexpectedly close to +some land; but it was not until the day broke that we knew the full +extent of the danger we had encountered: the land we had seen proved to +be the round head of Bustard Bay, which, as the wind was blowing directly +upon it, we were fortunate in having room to clear. The Dick was apprized +by us of the danger in time, and succeeded in clearing the land by +tacking to the southward. + +June 6. + +At noon we were passing the small woody isle that was seen by Captain +Flinders, and farther on we discovered two other isles of a similar +character: they were seen from the masthead to the north-east; and a +fourth was seen by the Dick. After this we had a few days of fine +weather, which, as dysentery had already made its appearance amongst us, +was most welcome, and tended materially to check the progress of so +alarming a complaint. + +June 8. + +On the 8th we entered among the Northumberland Islands. + +June 10. + +But, from light northerly winds, did not reach an anchorage under Percy +Island, Number 2, until the morning of the 10th. Our situation was +between the Pine Islets and the basin, in ten fathoms, near a run of +water, which fell from the rocks into the sea at about a quarter of a +mile to the northward of the sandy beach: from this stream we filled our +casks. Water was also found in many other parts, but all the runs +appeared to be of temporary duration. + +June 11. + +This island, like Number 1, which we visited in 1819, appears to be +principally of quartzose formation. The soil is sandy, and affords but +little nourishment to the stunted trees with which it is furnished. In +the more barren and rocky parts the pine was abundant, but not growing to +any great size: the Dick's people cut down and embarked several logs; on +examination they were thought to be useless; but, from subsequent +experience, they proved to be far from deserving such contempt, for +during the voyage we made two pole-top gallant-masts of it; which, +although very full of knots, were as tough as any spar I ever saw; and +carried a press of sail longer than would be trusted on many masts. These +trees are very abundant on the Cumberland and Northumberland Islands, but +do not attain any large size; being seldom higher than fifty or sixty +feet, or of a greater diameter than from twelve to eighteen inches. + +Among the variety of birds, several black cockatoos and the pheasant +cuckoo were seen. The beaches were frequented by gulls, terns, and +oyster-catchers; and an egret was noticed of a slate-coloured plumage, +with a small ruff upon its head. + +The seine was hauled upon the beach; but the only fish caught were two +very large sting-rays; one of which measured twelve feet across: as it +was too unwieldy to take on board, we had no means of weighing it; but +the liver nearly filled a small pork barrel.* It is very probable that +our bad success may be attributed to the presence of these fish, for on +board the Dick several snappers were caught with the hook and line. + +(*Footnote. Captain Cook describes some fish, probably of the same +species, found at Botany Bay, weighing each three hundred and thirty-six +pounds (Hawkesworth volume 3 page 100); from which circumstance, as it is +not generally known, the name of Sting-ray Bay was given to that harbour; +it is so-called in the charts of the Endeavour's voyage, in the +Hydrographical Office at the Admiralty, as well as in Sir Joseph Banks' +copy of the Endeavour's journal, and in Dr. Solander's manuscript +journal, both of which are in the possession of my friend Robert Brown, +Esquire. The name by which it is now known appears to have been given +subsequently, on account of the variety and beauty of its botanical +productions.) + +In the evening the wind set in from South by East, with rain, and cloudy, +thick weather: in striking the royal masts, a serious defect was +discovered in our fore-top-mast; the upper part being found rotten for +twelve feet below the head; and the top-gallant-mast was also found to be +sprung in the wake of the cap. + +June 12. + +So that we were compelled to remain all the next day at the anchorage to +shift them. This detention was very vexatious, for we were not only +losing a fair wind, but lying in a very exposed situation. + +During the preceding night a brig anchored half a mile to the southward +of us: she proved to be the San Antonio; she left Port Jackson four days +after us, and was bound on a trading speculation to the Moluccas and +Singapore. In the forenoon I visited the master, Mr. Hemmans, and offered +him my guidance up the coast, if he would wait until we had shifted our +defective masts; but he declined it as he was anxious to get on without +delay; and, having Captain Flinders' charts, intended to run "DAY AND +NIGHT THROUGH THE REEFS;" he told me that he had anchored here with the +intention of watering and cutting some pine spars, but that not finding +the latter worth the trouble, he was then getting underweigh to proceed. +When I went away, he accompanied me to look over my plan of the passage; +after which he returned to his vessel, which soon afterwards steered past +us on her way to the northward. Mr. Hemmans told me that he had anchored +under Keppel Islands, where he had a friendly communication with the +natives, who used nets, which he thought were of European construction; +but from his description, they are similar to what have been before seen +on the coast, and are constructed by the natives themselves. + +June 13. + +At eight o'clock the next morning we got underweigh; but the Dick in +weighing her anchor found both flukes broken off. + +June 14. + +The next day, we rounded the north extremity of the Cumberland Islands. + +June 15. + +And at four o'clock a.m. the 15th, were abreast of Cape Gloucester. + +Thick cloudy weather with rain and a fresh breeze from the southward, +variable between South-South-East and South-South-West, now set in, and +was unfavourable for our seeing the coast as we passed it: Cape Bowling +Green was not seen, but the gradual decrease of soundings from eighteen +to fourteen fathoms, and the subsequent increase of depth, indicated our +having passed this low and dangerous projection. + +June 16. + +At daylight of the 16th, we passed outside the Palm Islands at the +distance of five miles. + +The weather continued so thick and rainy, that Mount Hinchinbrook was +quite concealed from our view; but a partial glimpse of the land enabled +me to distinguish Point Hillock, and afterwards to see Cape Sandwich, +Goold Island, and the group of the Family Isles. + +June 17. + +In passing the largest Frankland Island, the San Antonio was seen lying +at anchor near it, with her fore topsail loose, firing guns: seeing this, +we hauled to the wind, and made sail to beat up towards her, under the +idea of her being in distress; but as we approached, we observed a boat +alongside, and her top-gallant yards across, which were proofs that she +was not in such immediate danger, as to require our beating up, with the +risk of losing some of our spars, for the Dick had already sprung her +jib-boom; we, therefore, hove the vessels to, and soon afterwards the San +Antonio joined and passed under our stern, when Mr. Hemmans informed me +that the guns he had fired were intended as signals to his boat, and that +they were not meant for us. He had been aground, he said, on a reef near +the Palm Islands, but had received no damage: light, however, as he +pretended to make of this accident, it was a sufficient lesson for him, +and we soon found he had profited by it, for instead of preceding us, he +quietly fell into our wake, a station which he never afterwards left, +until all danger was over, and we had passed through Torres Strait. + +I had now determined upon taking up an anchorage round Cape Grafton +during the continuance of the bad weather, and for that purpose steered +through the strait that separates the cape from Fitzroy Island; and +anchored in six fathoms mud, at about half a mile from its northern +extremity. + +It is little remarkable that the day on which we anchored should be the +anniversary of the discovery of the bay; for Captain Cook anchored here +on the eve of Trinity Sunday, fifty-one years before, and named the bay +between Capes Grafton and Tribulation, in reverence of the following day. +In passing between Cape Grafton and Fitzroy Island, eight or ten natives +were observed seated on the rocks at the south end of the beach: one of +them waved his spear to us as we passed, but the distance was too great +to take any notice of him. + +In the afternoon we landed upon the small island in the bay, and found it +to be separated from the mainland by a very shoal channel, through which +our boat had some difficulty in passing; the island is small, and formed +of loose fragments of granite, over which the decomposed vegetable matter +had formed a soil, which, although shallow, was sufficient to nourish +some luxuriant grass (panicum) and a robust species of eucalyptus: among +these large flights of cockatoos and parroquets were hovering, but they +were very shy, and did not allow us to approach them: a small dove, +common to other parts of the coast, was killed. A native was seen walking +along a sandy beach behind the island, but proceeded without noticing our +boat, which was at that time passing. + +June 18. + +The following day the weather was so clear that, in the early part of the +morning, we distinctly saw the summit of the land at the back of Cape +Tribulation, bearing North 43 degrees West (magnetic); it must have been +fifty-five or sixty miles off; the fall of the land towards the extremity +of the cape was also seen, bearing North 35 degrees 50 minutes West +fifty-six miles. + +In the afternoon I went on shore near the north extremity of the Cape, to +procure some bearings; after which we strolled about, and found a +temporary stream of water falling into the sea. In walking past a grove +of pandanus trees, which grew near the water, we disturbed a prodigious +quantity of bronze-winged butterflies, reminding us, in point of number, +of the Euploea hamata, at Cape Cleveland in 1819. It proved to be a +variety of the Urania orontes (Godart) of Amboyna and the other Indian +Islands. Mr. Cunningham took advantage of the Dick's boat going to the +bottom of the bay, to cut grass: near their landing-place he found some +natives' huts; some of which were of more substantial construction than +usual, and were thatched with palm leaves: inside of one he found a +fishing rod, and a line, five or six fathoms long, furnished with a hook +made from a shell, like the hooks of the South Sea Islanders: he also +found a small basket, made from the leaf of a palm-tree, lying near the +remains of their fireplaces, which were strewed with broken exuviae of +their shell-fish repasts. + +A canoe twelve feet long, similar to the one described at Blomfield's +Rivulet (volume 1) was also seen; and, like it, was not more than nine +inches wide at the bilge. A small kangaroo was seen by Mr. Cunningham +feeding upon the grass, but fled the moment that it saw him approaching. + +Nothing more was seen of the natives, nor were any heard, or suspected of +being near us; had there been any number the party would have been placed +in an awkward situation, for upon landing, they all incautiously, and +very imprudently, separated, to amuse themselves as they were inclined, +without regarding the situation of the boat, which was soon left dry by +the ebbing tide; and it was eight o'clock at night before they succeeded +in launching her. Immediately after its return, for which we had been +waiting four hours, we got underweigh, and were only just in time to save +the breeze, which carried us out into the offing: after a short calm, the +wind gradually freshened from South-South-West, and we steered on under +easy sail towards Cape Tribulation. + +June 19. + +On passing the cape two reefs were seen to seaward, which had previously +escaped our notice. + +In the afternoon we anchored in ten fathoms, at about half a mile from +the north-west end of the reef that stretches for two miles to the +northward of the south-westernmost Hope Island; and, as it was low water +and the reef uncovered, we walked across it. It is formed principally of +coral, on the surface of which we found the gray trepang; a small Chama +gigas, a cypraea, a pretty azure-coloured species of asteria, and a few +bivalve shells. The few birds that frequented the reef were very shy, and +flew away at our approach: they were principally pelicans and terns. + +June 20. + +After weighing the next morning, we steered North 1/2 West, a course +farther to seaward than we had previously taken, in order to see the +reefs more distinctly, and to prove the width and extent of this part of +the channel; but the sun was shining in the direction of our course, and +the shadows of the clouds upon the water were at times so deceptious +that, whilst they often caused appearances of reefs where none existed, +they concealed others that, for the same reason, were not seen until we +were close to them. Having now the charge of two merchant-vessels, it was +necessary to proceed with caution, and therefore we steered nearly over +our last year's track, but notwithstanding, we now discovered several new +reefs, and informed ourselves of the extent and shape of others which had +escaped our previous observation. + +As we were rounding the two islands that lie close to the south side of +Lizard Island, a native was seen in a canoe, paddling towards another who +was sitting on the rocks watching our movements; and, as we hauled round +the south point of the bay, two others were observed walking towards the +beach; upon seeing us they stopped short and retreated up the hill; but, +after we anchored and sent a boat on shore, which was accompanied by one +from the Dick, they advanced, and without much hesitation, came forward +and communicated with our party. They carried spears with them, and each +of our gentlemen had their fowling-pieces: the appearance of Bundell, who +on these occasions always took his clothes off, perhaps gave them greater +confidence. After some vociferous and unintelligible parley, one of our +gentlemen, in order to give them further cause for the surprise which +they had already manifested to a great extent, unadvisedly fired his +fowling-piece; upon which, as might be expected, they became distrustful +and frightened, and, fixing their spears in their throwing sticks, walked +backwards at a quick pace, and withdrew altogether towards the hills. + +Lizard Island, and the Direction Isles to the south-westward, are of very +different character to the other islands which front this coast, being +high, rising to peaks, and of granitic formation. Captain Cook, in his +description of Lizard Island, mentions it as being a good place to +refresh at, on account of its supplying both wood and water; but, at the +same time we were there, the latter was not found, although the rain had +been lately falling in great quantity; with the former, however, it is +well supplied. This island, from its connection with Captain Cook's +misfortunes during his perilous navigation within the reefs, will always +be an interesting feature in the history of the discovery and examination +of this coast, and deserves a more appropriate appellation. + +June 21. + +Leaving Lizard Island the following morning, we directed our course for +Cape Flinders, over our last year's track. Upon passing Port Ninian, the +sea was observed to break heavily upon the Barrier Reefs, which in this +part approach nearer to the mainland than at any other. As we doubled +Cape Melville, the wind, as usual, freshened up to a strong breeze, and +carried us rapidly across Bathurst Bay: to the westward of the cape +several natives were observed walking upon the beach. + +In passing round Cape Flinders, there appeared to be a considerable +diminution in the remains of the Frederick's wreck. No vestige was left +of her stern or forecastle, both of which were before so very +conspicuous. At half-past five o'clock we anchored with our companions +near the usual place. + +June 22. + +The following morning, at daybreak, a party of men went to the wreck to +collect the spars and planks that had escaped the mischievous fires of +the natives; and at five o'clock I joined them with the master of the +Dick and Mr. Roe, ordering Mr. Bedwell to relieve the shore party with +some fresh hands at eight o'clock. When the time arrived, supposing that +the relief-party had nearly reached the shore, I sent the people over the +hill, in order to be ready when the boat arrived to go on board; and in +the meantime amused myself in wandering about the reef near the wreck, +where Mr. Roe was also employed. Mr. Harrison (the master of the Dick) +was at the further end of the beach with his fowling piece, with two of +his boat's crew picking up shells: when suddenly they were surprised by +hearing a loud shout, and seeing several spears strike the rocks about +them: upon looking round, Mr. Harrison found that a party of natives were +advancing upon him with their spears poised; upon which he presented his +gun at the foremost, but, from his having waded about in the water, the +powder had got damp and would not go off. Immediately that I heard the +shout of the natives, and saw Mr. Harrison retreating from the Indians, +who were in close pursuit, I hastened to his assistance, and came up in +time to prevent them from doing any mischief; and, by occasionally +levelling my gun, kept them at bay whilst we retreated towards the wreck, +from which we were about half a mile distant. By this time Mr. Roe, who +had also heard the noise, joined; but, as he had not a gun, the only +assistance he brought was an addition to our number. Among the four +foremost of the natives was a mischievous boy, who, being emboldened by +our not firing, and showing an anxiety to get away from them, fixed his +spear and aimed it at me; upon which I fired my gun, but, as it was only +loaded with small shot, it had no effect at the distance he was from me; +the noise, however, arrested their pursuit for a moment; and by the time +they recovered their surprise, I had reloaded with ball, but to my great +mortification, upon presenting the gun to deter the boy from throwing his +spear again, it missed fire: the weapon, which at first was aimed at me, +was then thrown at one of the Dick's men, and, piercing his hat, which he +was carrying at his breast, fortunately, full of shells, only slightly +wounded one of his fingers. The man, who to all appearance was +dangerously wounded, for the spear stuck in the hat and hung suspended in +the air, drew it out, and, throwing it on the ground with the greatest +composure, continued to retreat. The natives then finding we were not +intimidated or hurt by the spears, began to make friendly gestures, which +we, of course, returned, but still continued to walk away with our faces +turned towards them. + +We were now only four in number (for I had despatched one of the Dick's +people to recall our boat, and to order the crew over to our assistance) +and being without any means, or show of defence, it required much caution +and management on our part to prevent their throwing any more spears; for +they were now within a few yards of us: their ferocity, however, began to +diminish, as their attention was taken by our clothes and a silk +handkerchief which Mr. Roe held out to them: they were about ten in +number, of whom five or six were armed with spears. Our only safety now +was in letting them approach, and amusing them by a display of our silk +handkerchiefs and other parts of our dress, and making all the grimaces +and monkey-like gestures we could think of. + +Among the natives was a young woman, whom they repeatedly offered to us +by using the most significant signs; which she also endeavoured to +strengthen by appropriate gestures on her part; but our inclinations were +not consonant with the opportunity so pressingly, but so suspiciously, +offered. After our declining this honour, they occasionally laid their +hands upon our clothes to detain us, but it did not require much force to +make them quit their hold. One of the men having seized my gun, I drew it +out of his hand rather roughly; but, accompanied at the same moment with +the friendly gesture of patting his breast, the recovery was happily +effected without exciting his anger. + +In this manner, and with great fatigue, we continued our retreat across +the reef, and reached the wreck without any signs of our people coming to +our assistance; when the natives found we intended to walk round the +point, they divided, and gave their spears to a party that went over the +hills, as it were, to cut us off; but in this intention, if they +entertained it, they were disappointed, for our boat was there, and the +crew all embarked, ready to shove off, little expecting ever to see us +again. The idea of being thus easily deserted by our people was for a +moment mortifying, but I ordered some of the crew on shore, and by our +numbers kept the natives amused on the beach, while Mr. Harrison shoved +off in his gig to give the alarm, and to order some muskets to be sent +for our protection: by the time, however, that Mr. Bedwell arrived, we +had succeeded in making friends with the natives; who, upon perceiving +that we had now in our turn the superiority, began to draw away, and +appeared to be as anxious to get rid of us as we had been, half an hour +before, to escape from them; but we accompanied them halfway across the +reef, watching an opportunity to seize the boy who had wounded the Dick's +man, whom I intended to keep a prisoner while we were here, and then to +dismiss him with presents, to show that we were not inimical to them, +although angry at being so treacherously attacked. My intention, however, +was probably suspected, for they avoided our approaching sufficiently +near them to effect my purpose with the certainty of success, I therefore +called our people away to resume their work at the wreck, and, after +leaving orders with Mr. Bedwell not to fire but in self-defence, and if +an opportunity offered, to seize the boy, went on board with the party to +breakfast. I had not, however, left the shore long before hostilities +again commenced, and several shots were mischievously fired at the +natives by some of the Dick's and San Antonio's people, who, being +advanced, had very improperly endeavoured to cut off three of them, upon +which one of the natives poised his spear with a threat of throwing it, +when several muskets were fired at these miserable wretches, who, +fortunately for them, got clear off; although one of them by his limping +appeared to have been struck in the leg. + +After this we saw nothing more of them for the day. Mr. Bedwell was +employed with his party at the wreck, whilst Mr. Cunningham traversed the +hills in the vicinity, for it was not safe to trust himself at any +distance from our people, since the natives would not have failed, had +they met with an opportunity, to punish us for our broken faith. + +June 23. + +The following day, on the return of our people from the wreck, they +reported that the natives had shown themselves on the opposite side of +the bay; I therefore went to the shore with Mr. Harrison, to endeavour to +make peace, but saw no signs of them, excepting a smoke on the next +island, to which they had probably retired. On the following day they +were again seen, and fired upon by the boat's crew of the Dick. + +All these events gave me much concern, not only because the natives may +be induced to attack and take revenge upon strangers who may subsequently +pass this way, but also because they must have imbibed a very poor idea +of the effect of our arms, when so many muskets were fired without doing +them any mischief: and, but for the sake of humanity, I could almost have +wished that one had been killed. + +The day after we arrived here, a boat from the San Antonio conveyed Mr. +Montgomery and Mr. Cunningham to Clack's Island. The reef abounded with +shells, of which they brought back a large collection, but not in any +great variety; an indifferent cypraea was the most common; but there were +also some volutae and other shells, besides trepang and asteriae, in +abundance. Mr. Cunningham observed a singularly curious cavern upon the +rock, of which he gave me a description in the following account of the +island: + +"The south and south-eastern extremes of Clack's Island presented a +steep, rocky bluff, thinly covered with small trees. I ascended the steep +head, which rose to an elevation of a hundred and eighty feet above the +sea. I found simply the plants of the main, namely, Mimusops parvifolia, +Br.; Hoya nivea, Cunningham manuscript; Acacia plectocarpa, Cunningham +manuscript; Chionanthus axillaris, Br.; Notelaea punctata, Br.; some +alyxiae, and the small orange-fruited ficus, which grew in the thickets, +and, by insinuating its roots in the interstices of the rocks, clothed a +great portion of the inaccessible front of the island. + +"The remarkable structure of the geological feature of this islet led me +to examine the south-east part, which was the most exposed to the +weather, and where the disposition of the strata was of course more +plainly developed. The base is a coarse, granular, siliceous sandstone, +in which large pebbles of quartz and jasper are embedded: this stratum +continues for sixteen to twenty feet above the water: for the next ten +feet there is a horizontal stratum of black schistose rock, which was of +so soft a consistence, that the weather had excavated several tiers of +galleries; upon the roof and sides of which some curious drawings were +observed, which deserve to be particularly described: they were executed +upon a ground of red ochre (rubbed on the black schistus) and were +delineated by dots of a white argillaceous earth, which had been worked +up into a paste. They represented tolerable figures of sharks, porpoises, +turtles, lizards (of which I saw several small ones among the rocks) +trepang, star-fish, clubs, canoes, water-gourds, and some quadrupeds, +which were probably intended to represent kangaroos and dogs. The +figures, besides being outlined by the dots, were decorated all over with +the same pigment in dotted transverse belts. Tracing a gallery round to +windward, it brought me to a commodious cave, or recess, overhung by a +portion of the schistus, sufficiently large to shelter twenty natives, +whose recent fireplaces appeared on the projecting area of the cave. + +"Many turtles' heads were placed on the shelfs or niches of the +excavation, amply demonstrative of the luxurious and profuse mode of life +these outcasts of society had, at a period rather recently, followed. The +roof and sides of this snug retreat were also entirely covered with the +uncouth figures I have already described. + +"As this is the first specimen of Australian taste in the fine arts that +we have detected in these voyages, it became me to make a particular +observation thereon: Captain Flinders had discovered figures on Chasm +Island, in the Gulf of Carpentaria, formed with a burnt stick; but this +performance, exceeding a hundred and fifty figures, which must have +occupied much time, appears at least to be one step nearer refinement +than those simply executed with a piece of charred wood. Immediately +above this schistose stratum is a superincumbent mass of sandstone, which +appeared to form the upper stratum of the island." (Cunningham +manuscript.)* + +(*Footnote. Similar representations were found by Mr. White, carved on +stone in the neighbourhood of Port Jackson. White's Journal quarto page +141.) + +June 25. + +Having procured all the spars and planks from the wreck that could be +useful to us, we made preparations to sail, and at daylight, the 25th, +got underweigh with my two companions, and resumed our course to the +northward, over that of last year, excepting that we steered inside of +Pelican Island, and to leeward of Island 4. We passed several large +sting-rays asleep on the surface of the sea, which our people +ineffectually endeavoured to harpoon. On the former island large flights +of pelicans were seen, and upon the sandbank, to the southward of it, +there was a flock of two or three hundred young birds. + +The breeze not being sufficient to carry us to Night Island before dark, +the anchor was dropped in eleven fathoms muddy bottom, two miles to the +eastward of Island 8. The Dick and San Antonio anchored close to us. +During the night we had a fresh breeze from South-East by East, and, not +having any island or reef to shelter us from the swell, we were obliged +to drop a second anchor to retain our position. The San Antonio drove for +some distance, but the Dick rode through the night without driving, +although she had but forty fathoms of cable out. + +June 26. + +On weighing the next morning, we made sail to the North by West, but, +from the compass-box not being quite straight in the binnacle, we made a +North by West 1/2 West course, which was not discovered until we had +nearly paid dear for our neglect; for we passed close to a rock which I +intended to have gone at least a mile to windward of. It was seen just in +time to put the helm a-lee, or we should have run upon it. + +The weather was now so thick that we could not see a mile around us; we +were therefore obliged to follow our former courses, to avoid the risk of +running over a strange track in such unfavourable weather. At sunset we +anchored under the lee of Piper's Islets. + +June 27. + +The next day we anchored under Sunday Island in Margaret Bay, at about +half a mile from the sandy beach, on its north-west side. + +Here we were detained by bad weather until the 30th. + +June 30. + +When, with some slight appearance of improvement, and tired of losing so +much time, we weighed and proceeded on our course. After passing the Bird +Isles, thick weather again set in, with constant rain, and a strong +breeze from South-East. Upon reaching Cairncross Island, under which it +was my intention to anchor, the sails were reduced; and, as we were in +the act of letting go the anchor, Mr. Roe, who was at the masthead +holding thoughtlessly by the fore-topmast staysail-halyards, whilst the +sail was being hauled down, was precipitated from a height of fifty feet, +and fell senseless on the deck. We were now close to the reef; and, in +the hurry and confusion attending the accident, and the Dick at the same +time luffing up under our stern, the anchor was dropped, without my +ascertaining the quality of the bottom, which was afterwards found to be +of a very questionable nature. + +The Dick, having dropped her anchor within forty yards of us, was lying +so close as to prevent our veering more cable than sixty fathoms, but as +we appeared to ride tolerably easy with a sheer to starboard, while the +Dick rode on the opposite sheer, we remained as we were: to prevent +accident, the yards were braced so that we should cast clear of the Dick +if we parted, a precaution which was most happily taken. + +As soon as the distressing accident that had occurred was known on board +the Dick, Dr. Armstrong, a surgeon of the navy and a passenger in that +ship, hastened on board to assist Mr. Montgomery in dressing Mr. Roe's +hurt, which I found, to my inexpressible satisfaction, was not so +grievous as might have been expected: his fall was, most providentially, +broken twice; first by the spritsail brace, and secondly by some planks +from the Frederick's wreck, which had fortunately been placed across the +forecastle bulwark over the cat-heads: his head struck the edge of the +plank and broke his fall, but it cut a very deep wound over the right +temple. This unfortunate event threatened to deprive me of his very +valuable assistance for some time, a loss I could but very ill spare, +particularly when upon the point of returning to the examination of so +intricate a coast as that part where we last left off. + +At six o'clock in the evening the flood-tide began to set to leeward, and +as night approached the appearance of the weather became very +threatening, accompanied by a descent of the mercury; this gave me a very +unfavourable idea of our situation: the wind was blowing clear of the +reef, and raised a heavy sea; and the Dick was so close to us that we +dared not veer cable, for fear of getting on board of her, which must +have happened if either ship should break her sheer. + +At half-past ten o'clock, during a very heavy squall, the cable parted, +but from the precaution above-mentioned, the brig happily drifted with +her head to starboard, and passed clear both of the Dick and San Antonio; +the chain-cabled anchor was then dropped, and veered to ninety fathoms, +which brought her up in fifteen fathoms, mud; in which birth she appeared +to ride much easier than before. I was now very anxious about the lost +anchor; and, having expressed a wish to inform Mr. Harrison of our +situation, and to request him to recover our anchor in the morning if the +weather would permit, Mr. Bedwell volunteered to go on board her; which, +although a service of danger, was, if possible to be effected, absolutely +necessary. The boat was lowered, and they shoved off, but as the crew +were unable to pull it ahead, I called her on board again, which was most +fortunate; for shortly afterwards the chain-cable parted also, and the +brig drove with her head towards the shore. + +1821. July 1. + +We had now the prospect of being obliged to keep under sail during the +remainder of the night. An attempt was made to veer, in order that, by +laying to with her head off shore, we might have time to recover the +cable, without endangering the security of the vessel; but, from the +weight of the chain at the bow, this manoeuvre could not be effected; +fearing, therefore, to drift any more to the westward, in which direction +we were making rapid way, I was under the necessity of slipping the +chain, by which we lost one hundred fathoms of cable, which we could but +badly spare: being now freed from the impediment, the brig's head was +placed off shore; and after making sail, we fired several muskets and +showed lights, as signals to the Dick, who, it afterwards appeared, kept +a light up for our guidance; but the weather was so squally and thick, +with almost constant rain, that it was not seen by us. It was half-past +twelve o'clock when we made sail to the North-East by East, deepening +from fourteen to sixteen fathoms, and when the hillocky summit of +Cairncross Island bore South by West, beyond which bearing we did not +know how far we could proceed with safety; we tacked to the +South-South-West, and proceeded in that direction until the island bore +South, when we were in fourteen fathoms. Having thus ascertained the +depth of this space, which was about three miles in extent, it was +occupied during the remainder of the night; which, being very dark and +squally, was passed by us in the greatest anxiety. At day-dawn we were +joined by our companions, and, as it was not possible from the state of +the weather to regain the anchors we had lost, made sail towards Turtle +Island, on our way to which we passed Escape River: both of these places +reminded us of former perils, but the recollection of our providential +preservation on those occasions, as well as on many others during our +former voyages, increased the grateful feelings which we now felt for our +safety and protection during the last night, the anxieties and +circumstances of which can never be obliterated from our minds. + +Our course was directed entirely by the chart I had previously formed; +for the weather was so thick that for the greater part of the way no land +could be seen to guide us: by noon we had passed between Cape York and +Mount Adolphus, and in a short time rounded the north end of Wednesday +Island, and were steering between it and the North-West Reef. + +After passing the rock off Hammond's Island, we steered West by South 1/2 +South, but were obliged to haul up South-West by West to pass to the +southward of a small shoal, some part of which was uncovered (the time of +tide being nearly low water, spring tide): this shoal lies in a North 50 +degrees West direction, from the low rocky ledge off the north end of +Good's Island, and is distant from it about a mile and a half. The Dick +being a little to leeward of our track, had four fathoms; but the least +we had was five and three-quarters. This reef is not noticed in Captain +Flinders' chart: at high water, or even at half ebb, it is very +dangerous, from its lying in the direct track; but, by hauling over to +the south shore, may be easily avoided. + +At four o'clock we passed Booby Island, and steered West by South across +the Gulf of Carpentaria. + +July 3. + +Between Booby Island and Cape Wessel, which we passed in sight of on the +3rd, we had thick gloomy weather, with the wind between South and +East-South-East; and, after rounding the Cape had some heavy rain, in +which the mercury, having previously fallen to 29.91, rose to 29.95 +inches. Lightning from the east and west accompanied the rain, but the +wind was steady, and did not freshen or lull during the showers. + +July 5. + +On the 5th, at daylight, Goulburn Islands were seen, and at nine o'clock +we passed through the strait that divides them; our track being half a +mile more to the northward than that of last year, we had more regular +soundings. + +As soon as we anchored in South-West Bay, I sent on shore to examine our +former watering-place, but found that the stream had failed. The parched +up appearance of the island showed that the last had been an unusually +dry season; every place that, even in the month of August, six weeks +later, had before yielded large quantities, as well as the lagoon behind +the beach, which, from the nature of the plants growing in it, was +conjectured to be a never-failing supply, was now dried up. + +July 6 to 8. + +The next morning the brig's boat went over to Sims Island with Mr. +Cunningham, and there found a small quantity of water, sufficient, +according to Mr. Hemmans' report, for all our wants. The next morning +(7th) he moved the San Antonio over to the island, and anchoring her off +the sandy beach, landed his people to dig holes. In the afternoon he sent +me a specimen of what had been collected; but it was so brackish that I +gave up all idea of shipping any: he had improvidently dug large holes, +into which all the water good and bad had drained, and thereby the good +was spoiled. The following morning he sent another specimen, which, +notwithstanding it was considerably better, was still too bad to tempt me +to embark any. During the San Antonio's stay at Sims Island, our +gentleman paid it a visit: its vegetation appeared to have suffered as +much from want of rain as Goulburn Island. "The venerable tournefortia +(Tournefortia argentea. Lin.) however, appeared as an exception: this +tree, which grows on the centre of the beach, where it is remarkably +conspicuous, appeared to have resisted the dry state of the season; it +was in full leaf, and covered with a profusion of flowers, which +attracted a variety of insects, particularly of the genera apis, vespa, +and sphex; and among them a beautiful green-coloured chrysis." +(Cunningham manuscripts.) + +During the two last days, our people were employed cutting wood; no +natives had made their appearance, although recent tracks on the sand +showed they were not far off; but on the evening of the 7th, the surgeon, +accompanied by Dr. Armstrong of the Dick, landed in that vessel's gig, +and, whilst amusing themselves among the trees, and the boat's crew +incautiously wandering away from the boat, the natives came down, and +would have carried off all the boat's furniture, and everything in her, +had they not been disturbed by the return of one of the sailors with a +musket. They succeeded however, in making a prize of a new boat-cloak, +and the boat-hook, and one of them had nearly succeeded in carrying off +an oar, but upon being fired at, dropped his booty and scampered off. +This trifling loss was deservedly sustained by our gentlemen, for they +were well aware how suddenly the natives have always appeared, and how +mischievously they had on those occasions conducted themselves: they were +also cautioned, when they went on shore to be upon their guard, and it +was fortunate for them that nothing more serious occurred. + +July 8. + +At daylight, the 8th, the San Antonio rejoined us from Sims Island, and +at eleven o'clock we left the bay, and passed to the eastward of New +Year's Island: the Dick and ourselves then steered to the westward along +the coast, while the San Antonio steered a north-west course, and parted +company. + +July 9. + +The following day, being in sight of the land of Cape Van Diemen, and +having sent our letters on board the Dick for conveyance to England, we +parted company by an interchange of three cheers; and it was not without +a considerable degree of regret that we took this leave of our friends; +for it is but due to Mr. Harrison to say that we received very great +assistance from him on several occasions: he offered us his stream anchor +to replace in some degree our loss, although he had himself only one +left; it was, however, much too small for our purpose. + +By this opportunity I wrote to the Secretary of the Admiralty, and the +Under Secretary of State for the Colonies, and communicating to them a +brief account of our voyage up the east coast, acquainted them of my +intention of employing the fine-weather months of July and August upon +the north-west coast, and then of going to Mauritius, to replace our +anchors and cable, previous to our examination of the west coast. + + +CHAPTER 2. +Passage from Cape Van Diemen to Careening Bay. +Not finding water, visit Prince Regent's River, and procure it from the +Cascade. +Farther examination of the river. +Amphibious mud-fish. +Anchor in Halfway Bay, and explore Munster Water and Hanover Bay in a +boat. +Visit Hanover Bay, and procure water and fish. +Interview with natives. +The surgeon speared. +Retaliate upon them, and capture their rafts and weapons. +Description of their implements. +Port George the Fourth. +Islands to the westward. +Red Island of Captain Heywood. +Strong tides. +Camden Bay. +Buccaneer's Archipelago. +Cygnet Bay. +Dangerous situation of the brig. +High and rapid tides. +Cape Leveque. +Examination of the coast to Cape Latouche Treville. +Remarkable effect of mirage. +Leave the coast for Mauritius. +Voyage thither. +Arrival at Port Louis. +Refit. +Some account of the island. + +1821. July 9. + +Our course was held to the south-west towards Cape Londonderry; on which, +with a fresh South-East wind, we proceeded with rapidity. + +July 12. + +On the morning of the 12th, Eclipse Hill and Sir Graham Moore's Islands +were seen, and in the afternoon we passed Troughton Island; at sunset, +Point Hillock bore South thirteen miles, whence we steered to the +West-North-West and North-West, and rounded the north end of the long +reef, to the westward of Cape Bougainville. + +July 13. + +The next morning, at daylight, Cassini Island was seen bearing South by +West; here we were detained for two days by light baffling winds and +calms. + +July 14. + +During the night of the 14th, the wind was light from the westward, and +we stood off and on to the north of Cassini Island. + +July 15. + +At half-past one o'clock a.m., having sounded in thirty-three fathoms, we +shoaled suddenly to fourteen, when the vessel's head was put to the +southward, but the breeze was so very light, that she had hardly steerage +way: by the light of the moon a line of breakers was seen two miles off, +under our lee: we had now shoaled to nine fathoms on a rocky bottom, but +its great irregularity prevented our dropping the anchor until the last +minute, since it would have been to the certain loss of the only one we +had. In order, therefore, to save it, if possible, the boat was lowered, +and sent to sound between the vessel and the breakers. Finding we made no +progress off the reef by standing to the southward, we tacked; and, a +light breeze springing up from the westward, we drew off the bank on a +north-west course, and in the space of a mile and a half deepened the +water gradually to thirty fathoms. + +July 16. + +The next morning, at a quarter past eight o'clock, the breakers were +again seen; they were found to be 24 minutes 44 seconds West of Troughton +Island. The wind was too light to allow of our approaching, we therefore +tacked off to the westward, and soon lost sight of them; at noon we were +in latitude 13 degrees 26 minutes 26 seconds. The breakers from the +masthead, bearing south-east, distant eight or nine miles. + +During the ensuing night, having a fresh breeze, we stood first to the +westward, and afterwards to the south-east. + +July 17. + +At seven o'clock the next morning no land was in sight, but breakers were +seen extending from South by West to South-West by South, about five +miles off; and two miles beyond them was another line of breakers, +bearing from South-South-West to South-West by West. As we steered +obliquely towards them, they were noticed to extend still farther to the +eastward, but apparently in detached patches; our soundings, as we stood +on, shoaled to fifteen fathoms; and we were shortly within half a mile of +an appearance of shoal-water, in thirteen fathoms on a rocky bottom. The +wind now began to lessen; and, for fear of being becalmed, I was anxious +to get an offing. By our observations, we found the breakers this morning +were connected with those passed yesterday, and are a part of Baudin's +Holothurie Banks. The French charts of this part are very vague and +incorrect; for our situation at noon upon their plan (with respect to the +position of Cassini Island) was in the centre of their reefs. + +At noon we were in 13 degrees 38 minutes South, when a freshening breeze +from South-East enabled us to make progress to the southward. At two +o'clock some of the Montalivet Islands were seen; and before three +o'clock, an island was seen bearing South, which proved, as we stood +towards it, to be the northernmost of a group lying off the north-west +end of Bigge's Island; they were seen last year from Cape Pond, and also +from the summit of the hills over Careening Bay. + +July 19 to 21. + +At daylight (19th) having laid to all night, this group was about six +leagues off, bearing from South 35 1/2 to 49 degrees East, but a +continuation of calms and light winds detained us in sight of them until +the 21st. + +This group consists of eight or nine islands, and appears to be those +called by the French the Maret Isles; they are from one quarter to a mile +and a half in extent, and are rocky and flat-topped; the shores are +composed of steep, rocky cliffs. They are fronted on the west side by a +rocky reef extending in a North-North-East and South-South-West +direction. + +During the calm weather, in the vicinity of this group, we had seen many +fish and sea-snakes; one of the latter was shot and preserved; its length +was four feet four inches; the head very small; it had neither fins nor +gills, and respired like land-snakes; on each scale was a rough ridge: it +did not appear to be venomous. A shark was also taken, eleven feet long; +and many curious specimens of crustacea and medusa were obtained by the +towing-net. Some of the latter were so diaphanous as to be perfectly +invisible when immersed in the water. Among the former were a species of +phyllosoma, and the Alima hyalina of Leach.* + +(*Footnote. Cancer vitreus. Banks and Solander manuscripts. Lin. Gmel. +tome 1 page 2991. Astacus vitreus. Fabr. Syst. ent. page 417 n. 8.) + +At daylight we were about four leagues to the West-North-West of Captain +Baudin's Colbert Island; at the back of which were seen some patches of +the Coronation Islands. The night was passed at anchor off the +northernmost Coronation Island. + +July 23. + +And the following afternoon we anchored at about half a mile from the +sandy beach of Careening Bay. + +As soon as the vessel was secured, we visited the shore, and recognised +the site of our last year's encampment, which had suffered no alteration, +except what had been occasioned by a rapid vegetation: a sterculia, the +stem of which had served as one of the props of our mess-tent, and to +which we had nailed a sheet of copper with an inscription, was +considerably grown; and the gum had oozed out in such profusion where the +nails had pierced the bark that it had forced one corner of the copper +off. + +The large gouty-stemmed tree on which the Mermaid's name had been carved +in deep indented characters remained without any alteration, and seemed +likely to bear the marks of our visit longer than any other memento we +had left. + +The sensations experienced at revisiting a place which had so seasonably +afforded us a friendly shelter and such unlooked-for convenience for our +purposes, can only be estimated by those who have experienced them; and +it is only to strangers to such feelings that it will appear ridiculous +to say, that even the nail to which our thermometer had been suspended, +was the subject of pleasurable recognition. + +We then bent our steps to the water-gully, but, to our mortification, it +was quite dried up, and exhibited no vestige of its having contained any +for some time. From the more luxuriant and verdant appearance of the +trees and grass than the country hereabout assumed last year, when the +water was abundant, we had felt assured of finding it and therefore our +disappointment was the greater. + +July 24. + +After another unsuccessful search in the bight, to the eastward of +Careening Bay, in which we fruitlessly examined a gully that Mr. +Cunningham informed me had last year produced a considerable stream, we +gave up all hopes of success here, and directed our attention to the +cascade of Prince Regent's River; which we entered the next afternoon, +with the wind and tide in our favour, and at sunset reached an anchorage +at the bottom of St. George's Basin, a mile and a half to the northward +of the islet that lies off the inner entrance of the river, in seven +fathoms muddy sand. + +July 26. + +The following morning at half-past four o'clock Mr. Montgomery +accompanied me in the whale-boat to visit the cascade; we reached it at +nine o'clock and found the water, to our inexpressible satisfaction, +falling abundantly. + +While the boat's crew rested and filled their baricas, I ascended the +rocks over which the water was falling and was surprised to find its +height had been so underrated when we passed by it last year: it was then +thought to be about forty feet, but I now found it could not be less than +one hundred and fifty. The rock, a fine-grained siliceous sandstone, is +disposed in horizontal strata, from six to twelve feet thick, each of +which projects about three feet from that above it, and forms a +continuity of steps to the summit, which we found some difficulty in +climbing; but where the distance between the ledges was great we assisted +our ascent by tufts of grass firmly rooted in the luxuriant moss that +grew abundantly about the water-courses. On reaching the summit, I found +that the fall was supplied from a stream winding through rugged chasms +and thickly-matted clusters of plants and trees, among which the pandanus +bore a conspicuous appearance and gave a picturesque richness to the +place. While admiring the wildness of the scene, Mr. Montgomery joined +me; we did not however succeed in following the stream for more than a +hundred yards, for at that distance its windings were so confused among +rocks and spinifex that we could not trace its source. After collecting +for Mr. Cunningham, who was confined on board by sickness, a few +specimens of those plants which, to me, appeared the most novel, we +commenced our descent, and reached the bottom in safety; by which time +the tide was ebbing so rapidly that we set off immediately on our return +with a view of arriving on board by low-water, in order that no time +might be lost in sending the boats up with our empty water-casks. + +During our absence Mr. Roe, who was fast recovering from the effects of +his fall, had obtained the sun's meridional altitude upon the islet at +the entrance of the river, which gave 15 degrees 25 minutes 46 seconds +for its latitude, differing from the plan of last year by only fifteen +seconds. + +July 27. + +The following day the boats were despatched up the river, but as the +ebb-tide ran until after four o'clock it was late at night before they +reached the cascade, having experienced some delay by running upon the +sandbanks, which, above Alligator Island, are very numerous and form a +narrow winding channel of not more than twelve feet deep; these banks are +dry at low-water, and are composed of a yellow quartzose sand. At +midnight, as soon as the launch and cutter were loaded, for it did not +take more than half an hour to fill the casks, I despatched them to the +vessel with orders to return the following night for another load, and in +the meantime I purposed continuing the examination of the river, of which +we knew nothing beyond a few miles above the cascade. + +July 28. + +We were, however, unable to set out until half flood the next morning, on +account of the shoalness of the channel. + +For ten miles we found little or no variation either in its character or +course: its windings were only just sufficient to intercept a clear view; +for so direct was its course, that from this part the high round hill +near the entrance was seen midway between the hills that form the banks +of the river. + +Proceeding a little way farther, we were suddenly whirled into a rapid +amongst large stones, in the midst of which, as the stream was running at +the rate of five or six knots, the grapnel was instantly dropped, which +had the effect of reversing the boat's head. After this the grapnel was +weighed, and by very great exertions we extricated ourselves from the +rapid, and then landed at a hundred yards below the fall, on the east +bank, where the mangroves were so thick that it was with difficulty we +penetrated through them: having succeeded, we walked to the bank near the +rapid, and found that it was occasioned by the tide falling over a +barrier of rocks, which probably at low-water confines the fresh water +above this place; a few minutes afterwards it was high-water, and the +tide suddenly ceased to run; when the water became quite smooth and +motionless. + +A fresh-water rivulet, at that time the mere drainings of what +occasionally is a torrent, joined the main river, just above the rapid, +by a trickling stream; and made us the more desirous of extending our +knowledge of this extraordinary river: we therefore re-embarked, and, +passing the rapid, pulled up the river against the tide for a mile +farther, where it was suddenly terminated by a beautiful fresh-water +rivulet, whose clear, transparent stream was so great a contrast to the +thick, muddied water we had so long been pulling through that it was a +most gratifying sight, and amply repaid us for all our fatigue and +exertions. The fresh water was separated from the salt tide by a gentle +fall over rounded stones; but as the boat was unable to pass over them, +we had only time to fill our water-vessels, in order to be certain of +returning over the first rapid, before the strength of the stream +rendered it dangerous to pass. The bed of the river at this second fall +appeared to be about two hundred and fifty yards in breadth: its farther +course was lost sight of by a sharp turn, first to the North-East, and +then to the South-East, between high and rocky hills. + +Large groves of pandanus and hibiscus and a variety of other plants were +growing in great luxuriance upon the banks, but unhappily the sterile and +rocky appearance of the country was some alloy to the satisfaction we +felt at the first sight of the fresh water; as we did not, however, +expect to find a good country, the pleasure was not much diminished, and +we set off on our return, perfectly satisfied with the success of our +labours: we were at this time about fifty miles from the sea. + +The ebb-tide had fallen for an hour when we passed the first falls, but +there was no appearance of that violence which we witnessed in the +morning; probably because the stream had not reached its strength. + +An alligator was seen on our return, swimming within two yards of the +boat, and a musket, charged with a ball and buck-shot, was uselessly +fired at it. The appearance of these animals in the water is very +deceptious; they lie quite motionless, and resemble a branch of a tree +floating with the tide; the snout, the eye, and some of the ridges of the +back and tail being the only parts that are seen. The animal that we +fired at was noticed for some time, but considered to be only a dead +branch, although we were looking out for alligators, and approached +within six yards of it before we found out our mistake: the length of +this animal was from twelve to fifteen feet; I do not think that we have +ever seen one more than twenty feet long. + +We reached the cascade by four o'clock and remained there until our boats +arrived for a second cargo of water, which was at midnight; as soon as +the casks were filled, we set off on our return, but did not reach the +brig until eight o'clock in the morning. + +July 29. + +The fatigue and exposure which attended our watering at this place were +so great that I was obliged to give up the idea of completing it now. We +had obtained, by the two trips, enough to last until the end of October, +which, with the chance of finding more upon other parts of the coast, was +sufficient for our intended mode of proceeding. The boats were therefore +hoisted in, and preparations made to leave the anchorage. + +The river appears to abound with fish, particularly with mullet; and +porpoises were observed as high as the first falls, a distance of fifty +miles from the sea. A curious species of mud-fish (chironectes sp. +Cuvier) was noticed, of amphibious nature, and something similar to what +we have frequently before seen; these were, however, much larger, being +about nine inches long. At low water the mud-banks near the cascade that +were exposed by the falling tide were covered with these fish, sporting +about, and running at each other with open mouths; but as we approached, +they so instantaneously buried themselves in the soft mud that their +disappearance seemed the effect of magic: upon our retiring and +attentively watching the spot, these curious animals would re-appear as +suddenly as they had before vanished. We fired at several, but so sudden +were their motions that they generally escaped; two or three only were +procured, which appeared from their lying on the mud in an inactive state +to have been asleep; they are furnished with very strong pectoral and +ventral fins with which and with the anal fin, when required, they make a +hole, into which they drop. When sporting on the mud, the pectoral fins +are used like legs, upon which they move very quickly; but nothing can +exceed the instantaneous movement by which they disappear. Those that +were shot were taken on board, but on account of the extreme heat of the +weather they had become so putrefied as to be totally unfit for +preservation. + +July 30. + +The next day, the 30th, was spent in examining some bights in the narrow +part of the channel near Gap Island, so named from a remarkable division +in its centre, through which the high-tide flows, and gives it the +appearance of being two islands. It was on this occasion that we explored +Halfway Bay, where we were fortunate in finding good anchorage, and in +which we also discovered a strait, that on a subsequent examination was +found to communicate with Munster Water, and to insulate the land that +forms the north-west shore of the bay: this island was called after the +late Right Honourable Charles Greville, whose name has also been given to +a family of plants (grevillea) that bears a prominent rank in the botany +of this country. The strait, in which the tide was running at the rate of +six or seven knots, was not more than one hundred and fifty yards wide; +but in one part it was contracted to a much narrower compass, by a bed of +rocks that nearly extended across the strait, and which must originally +have communicated with the opposite shore. + +We landed under the flat-topped hill, at the south end of Greville +Island, among the mangroves which skirt the shore, and walked a few +hundred yards round the point, to examine the course of the strait; but +the way was so rugged, and we had so little time to spare, that we soon +re-embarked and returned into Halfway Bay. The geological character of +the island is a red-coloured, coarse-granular, siliceous sandstone, +disposed in horizontal strata, and intersected by veins of crystallised +quartz. The surface is covered by a shallow, reddish-coloured soil, +producing a variety of shrubs and plants. + +After this we crossed the river, and examined the two bays opposite to +Gap Island, but found them so shoal and overrun with mangroves that no +landing could be effected in any part. In both bays there is anchorage +between the heads; but all the inner part is very shoal, and perhaps at +low water there is not more than nine feet water within the heads. In the +mid-stream of the river the bottom is deep, and is formed entirely of +shells over which, on account of its being very narrow, the tide runs +with great strength; and from the irregularity of the bottom forms +numerous eddies and whirlpools, in which a boat is quite unmanageable. + +During our absence, Mr. Bedwell examined our former watering-place, at +the back of St. Andrew's Island, and on his return landed upon the sandy +beach of a bay on the south-west side of the basin, but was unsuccessful +in his search for water at both places. + +The sea breeze freshened towards sunset, and fanned up the fires that had +been burning for the last three days in several places upon the low land, +and on the sides of the hills to the westward of Mount Trafalgar; before +night they had all joined, and, spreading over the tops of the hills for +a space of three miles, produced a singularly grand and magnificent +effect. + +1821. August 1. + +At half past five o'clock the next morning we were under sail but, the +breeze being light, had only time to reach the anchorage under Greville +Island in Halfway Bay, before the tide turned against us. It was purposed +to remain only during the flood; but, on examination, the place was found +to be so well adapted for the purpose of procuring some lunar distances +with the sun, to correspond with those taken last year at Careening Bay, +that we determined upon seizing the opportunity; and as wood was abundant +on the island and growing close to the shores, a party was formed to +complete our holds with fuel, whilst Mr. Roe assisted me in taking +observations upon a convenient station on the north point of the bay +within Lammas Island, a small rocky islet covered with shrubs, and +separated from the easternmost point of Greville Island by a very shoal +and rocky channel. + +During these occupations we examined Munster Water: on our way to it we +landed on the reef off the east end of the Midway Isles, which was found +to be more extensive than had been suspected, and to embrace the group of +small rocks, which at high-water only just show their summits above the +water; at high-tide there is at least fifteen feet water over it, but +being low-water when we landed, the reef was dry. Upon it we found +several varieties of coral, particularly Explanaria mesenterina, Lam.; +Caryophylla fastigata, Lam.; and Porites subdigitata, Lam.: the only +shell that we observed upon the reef was a Delphinula laciniata, Lam. +(Turbo delphinus, Linn.). After obtaining bearings from its extremity, as +also from the summit of the outer dry rock, we landed upon a small +verdant-looking grassy mound, the northernmost islet of the group; but we +found the verdure of its appearance was caused only by the abundance of +the spinifex, through which we had, as usual, much difficulty in +travelling. After procuring some bearings from its summit we re-embarked +and pulled up Munster Water, supposing that it was connected with the +strait at the back of Greville Island; but as the tide then flowing was +running in a contrary direction to what was expected from the hypothesis +we had formed, we began to suspect some other communication with the sea, +and in this we were not deceived; for a narrow but a very deep strait +opened suddenly to our view, at the bottom of the Water, through which +some of the islands in the offing were recognised. In pulling through we +had kept close to the south shore, that we might not miss the +communication with Hanover Bay, but notwithstanding all our care we +passed by without noticing it, on account of the deceptious appearance of +the land; indeed the strait which we discovered leading to sea was not +seen until we were within two hundred yards of it, and would also have +escaped our observation had not the channel been so direct that the sea +horizon was exposed to our view. At the bottom of this arm are two deep +bays which were partially but sufficiently examined. In most parts of +Munster Water there is good anchorage amongst several small rocky +islands, on one of which we landed, and climbed its summit, but saw +nothing to repay us for the trouble or the danger of the ascent: the +surface was composed entirely of loose blocks of sandstone, which, when +trod upon, would crumble away or roll down the nearly perpendicular face +of the rock; and it was only by grasping the branches of the acacias and +other trees that were firmly rooted in the interstices of the +less-decomposed rocks that we were saved from being precipitated with +them. On our return we passed through the channel on the west side of the +Midway Isles which we found to be very deep and the stream very strong. + +August 4. + +The next day we pulled through the strait that insulates Greville Island, +and found that it communicated with Munster Water at a part where we had +yesterday concluded it likely to exist, and had in consequence steered +towards it; but as we proceeded the probability became less and less, and +we gave up the search when we were within three hundred yards of being +actually in it. + +We then pulled up Munster Water and afterwards through the strait to sea; +and, landing on some dry rocks on a reef which projects off the west head +of the strait, found that we were at the entrance of the bight, which was +last year named Hanover Bay: after taking a set of bearings, we +re-embarked and proceeded to the bottom of the bay which terminated in a +shoal basin. + +On our return we entered an opening in the rocky cliff which bore the +appearance of being the outlet of a torrent stream; being low-water, +there was not in many parts sufficient depth to float the boat; but after +pulling up for half a mile, a muddy channel was found, which, at the end +of another half mile, was terminated by a bed of rocks over which the +tide flows at high-water. The ravine is formed by steep precipitous rocks +which are at least two hundred and fifty feet high; it appeared to extend +to a considerable distance, and as the farther progress of the boat was +prevented by the stones and want of water, Bundell and two of the boat's +crew were despatched to examine a place farther on, where, from the green +appearance of the trees, it was thought not unlikely that there might be +a fresh stream. In this they were not disappointed, for after much delay +and trouble, from the difficulty of passing over the rocks, they returned +with two baricas full of fresh water, which they found in holes of +considerable size. + +In pulling up the river, an alligator was seen crawling slowly over the +mud banks, but took to the water before we came near it and did not +afterwards reappear. Many kangaroo-rats and small kangaroos were seen +skipping about the rocks, but they were very shy, and fled the moment +they saw us. + +Hanover Bay thus proving to afford good anchorage and an opportunity of +increasing our stock of water, as well as presenting a sandy beach on +which we could haul the seine, it was determined that we should visit it +as soon as the brig could be moved out of Prince Regent's River. + +On our return, which was over the same ground as we had passed in the +morning, we landed near two or three gullies on the inner side of the +island, which forms the eastern boundary of Munster Water, but were +unsuccessful in all our searches after fresh water. + +August 6. + +At daylight on the 6th we got underweigh to a light air of wind from the +southward, to leave Prince Regent's River; but notwithstanding the vessel +was under all sail she was very nearly thrown upon Lammas Island by the +tide, which was setting with great strength through the shoal passage +between it and Sight Point: as we passed without it we were not more than +five yards from the rocks. The wind then fell to a dead calm and the brig +was perfectly immovable in the water; but, drifted by the tide and +whirled round by the eddies, we were fast approaching the body of the +largest Midway Island, with a very great uncertainty on which side of it +the tide would drift us: when we were about three hundred yards from the +island the direction of the stream changed and carried us round its +south-east side, at about two hundred yards from the shore, but close to +the low rocks off its east end, on which we landed two days since. We +were under great anxiety for fear of being driven over the reef, on which +there could not have been sufficient water to have floated us; but our +fears of that danger were soon over for the tide swept us rapidly round +it. At this moment a light air sprang up which lasted only five minutes, +but it was sufficient to carry us past the junction of the Rothsay and +Munster Waters with the main stream. The vessel was at times unmanageable +from the violent whirlpools through which we passed, and was more than +once whirled completely round upon her keel; but our former experience of +a similar event prepared us to expect it, and the yards were as quickly +braced round. + +Having passed all the dangers, the ebb-tide very soon carried us out of +the river into Hanover Bay. In passing the easternmost of the outer +isles, the shrill voices of natives were heard calling to us, and Bundell +returned their shout, but it was some time before we could discern them +on account of the very rugged nature of the island: at last three Indians +were observed standing upon the rocks near the summit of the island but, +as the tide was running out with great strength, we were soon out of +hearing. + +Soon after one o'clock the brig was anchored at about half a mile off the +sandy beach in Hanover Bay, in eight fathoms (half flood) muddy bottom. +The boats were immediately hoisted out and sent up the river, but the +tide was ebbing and the difficulty of filling the casks so great that, +after great labour, we only procured a puncheon of water. The launch was +moored without the rocky bed of the river, while the jolly-boat conveyed +the baricas to her as they were filled, but even the latter could not get +within three hundred yards of the water, so that the people had to carry +the baricas over the rugged bed of the river for that distance, which +made the work laborious and slow; still however it was much less +distressing than the fatigue of watering from the cascade in Prince +Regent's River. At night a successful haul of the seine supplied our +people with abundance of fish, among which were mullets weighing from +three to five pounds; cavallos, whitings, silver fish, breams, and two +species of guard-fish. + +August 7. + +While our people were employed the next morning in washing the decks, +they heard at a distance the voices of natives; at eight o'clock they +were again heard and at ten o'clock they were close by; shortly +afterwards three, of whom one was a woman, were seen standing on the +rocks waving their arms. Being curious to communicate with the +inhabitants of this part of the coast, since we had not seen any between +this and Vansittart Bay, a party consisting of the surgeon, Mr. Bedwell, +Mr. Baskerville, and myself, went on shore to the place where the natives +were seated waiting for us. Bundell, who generally accompanied us on +these occasions divested of his clothes, stood up in the bow of the boat, +and, as we approached the shore, made signs of friendship, which the +natives returned, and appeared quite unconcerned at our approach. On +landing we climbed the rocks on which the two men were standing, when we +found that the woman had walked away: upon our approach they retired a +few paces and evidently eyed us in a distrustful manner; but, as they had +dropped their spears, and repeated the sign of peace that we had made to +them, we did not hesitate to walk towards them unarmed, desiring the +boat's crew to be prepared with the muskets, if called. When we joined +them they had their spears poised ready to throw, but on our presenting +them with some of the fish that we had caught the preceding evening they +dropped their spears and immediately returned us something in exchange; +one gave a belt, made of opossum fur, to Bundell; and the other, the +tallest of the two, gave me a club that he carried in his hand, a short +stick about eighteen inches long, pointed at both ends. This exchange of +presents appeared to establish a mutual confidence between us, and, to +strengthen it, I presented my friend with a clasped knife, after showing +him its use, the possession of which appeared to give him great pleasure. + +By this time Mr. Montgomery and Mr. Bedwell joined us; the latter +gentleman was unarmed, but the former had a pistol concealed under his +coat and carried a fish which he held out for them to take; but, as they +would not approach us nearer than two or three yards, he threw it towards +them, when the shortest native picked it up. Upon this accession to our +numbers they began to talk to each other, and at the same time picked up +their spears; but as the latter appeared only to be a cautionary movement +we did not anticipate their mischievous intentions. I then, with a view +to amuse them, made signs to my friend for the knife, which he put into +my hands without showing the least reluctance, upon which he was again +instructed how to open and shut it; but as this, instead of pacifying, +only served to increase their anger, the knife was thrown at his feet, +which he instantly picked up, and then both retired a few paces in a very +suspicious manner. + +We were at this time about three or four yards from the natives, who were +talking to each other in a most animated way, and evidently intent upon +some object; and, as it appeared probable that, if we remained any +longer, a rupture would ensue, it was proposed that our party should +retire to the boat, under the idea that they would follow us down; no +sooner, however, had we waved to them our farewell, and turned our backs +to descend the rocks, than they unexpectedly, and in the most treacherous +manner, threw their spears; one of which, striking a rock, broke and fell +harmless to the ground, but the other, which was thrown by the tallest +man, wounded Mr. Montgomery in the back; the natives then, without +waiting to throw their second spears, made off, closely pursued by +Bundell, who had armed himself with the broken spear; but they were out +of sight in a moment, and, by the time that the muskets were brought to +our assistance, were doubtless out of gun-shot. A pursuit was, however, +commenced, but our progress was so much impeded by the rugged and rocky +nature of the ground and by the abundance and intricate growth of the +shrubs and trees that we very soon desisted, and returned to the boat, to +which Mr. Montgomery had been in the meantime carried, complaining of +great weakness from loss of blood. + +Upon examining Mr. Montgomery's wound, which unfortunately was in such a +part of his body that he could not himself inspect it, it appeared that +the spear had penetrated about three inches; and, from the quantity of +extravasated blood, great fears were entertained that he had received a +very serious internal injury. The wound, from which he was suffering very +great pain, was dressed according to his instructions, but it was several +days before he considered himself out of danger. + +August 8. + +The next morning at eleven o'clock a native was seen on a float, or +catamaran, paddling round the west point of the strait, and another man, +a woman, and a child, were observed on the rocks, who, in less than a +quarter of an hour, came down to the spot where we met them yesterday, +and began to wave and call to us. An opportunity now offered of punishing +these wretches for their treacherous conduct, and of disappointing them +in their present plans, for they were evidently intent upon some +mischief. Mr. Bedwell was therefore despatched to secure their catamaran, +which was hauled up on a sandy beach near the outer point, whilst another +boat was sent towards the natives: when the latter arrived near the +shore, they were sitting on the rock and inviting us to land; but it was +necessary to convince them that we were not so defenceless as they +imagined, and, as soon as we were sufficiently near, several muskets were +fired over their heads: one of them fell down behind a rock, but the +other made off. The native who had fallen was wounded in the shoulder, +and was recognised to be the man that speared Mr. Montgomery; he made +several attempts to get away, but every time his head appeared above the +rock which concealed him from us, a pistol or a musket was fired to +prevent his escape; at last, however, he sprang up, and, leaping upon the +rock with a violent effort, was instantaneously out of sight. + +As soon as he was gone we pulled round to the sandy bay where the natives +had landed and overtook Mr. Bedwell, who was passing by the place. Upon +the beach we found two catamarans, or floats, on each of which a large +bundle of spears was tied with ligatures of bark; and on searching about +the grass we soon found and secured all their riches, consisting of +water-baskets, tomahawks, spears, throwing-sticks, fire-sticks, +fishing-lines, and thirty-six spears; some of the latter were of large +size, and very roughly made, and one was headed with a piece of stone +curiously pointed and worked. This last spear is propelled by a +throwing-stick, which was also found lying by it. After launching the +catamarans and securing everything found upon them, they were towed round +by the boats to where we had fired upon the natives, whilst a party +walked over land to examine the place. On the way several spears were +discovered placed ready for use on their retreat to the beach, where, +from the quantity collected, they evidently intended to make a stand; +supposing no doubt from our appearance yesterday that we were +defenceless, and would therefore fall an easy prey. On reaching the rock, +behind which the native fell, it was found covered with blood; and +Bundell, who probably did the deed, said the wound was on his shoulder. +We traced their retreat by the blood for half a mile to the border of a +mangrove inlet, which they had evidently crossed, for the marks of their +feet were perceived imprinted in the mud. We then gave up the pursuit, +and went on board. + +Upon examining the baskets, among other things a piece of iron hoop was +found fixed in a wooden handle, which it seemed they had used for the +purpose of digging up roots. This hoop must have been left by us last +year at Careening Bay. But what chiefly attracted our attention was a +small bundle of bark, tied up with more than usual care; upon opening it +we found it contained several spear-heads, most ingeniously and curiously +made of stone; they were about six inches in length, and were terminated +by a very sharp point; both edges were serrated in a most surprising way; +the serratures were evidently made by a sharp stroke with some +instrument, but it was effected without leaving the least mark of the +blow: the stone was covered with red pigment, and appeared to be a flinty +slate. These spear-heads were ready for fixing, and the careful manner in +which they were preserved plainly showed their value, for each was +separated by strips of bark, and the sharp edges protected by a covering +of fur. A wound with such a spear must be mortal; and it was very +fortunate for Mr. Montgomery that his was not inflicted with one of these +truly formidable weapons. Their hatchets were also made of the same +stone, the edges of which are ground so sharp that a few blows serve to +chop off the branch of a tree. + +The catamarans consisted of five mangrove stems lashed together to a +frame of smaller wood, as in Woodcut 2: they are bouyant enough to carry +two natives, besides their spears and baskets. A representation of this +mode of conveyance is also given in Woodcut 1. + +These natives were more robust-looking men than any we had before seen; +the tallest must have been at least six feet two inches high; their +bodies were scarred all over; their teeth perfect, and they were quite +naked. The shorter native had his hair collected into a knob at the top +of his head, which gave him a ferocious appearance. The punishment they +so justly received will make them respect in future the formidable nature +of our arms. + +At night we hauled the seine, and procured about four dozen fish, +principally mullet. An armed party was stationed above the beach to +prevent any attack from the natives, but they did not show themselves. + +August 9. + +On the following day we again heard them shouting and hallooing but it +was some time before we could observe their situation; at last five were +discovered by the aid of a telescope, seated on the summit of a hill +behind the beach, occupied in making spears; at a little distance were +two others, one of whom was distinguished to be the native that had +escaped unwounded; the other, a stranger, was chopping a branch off a +tree, which he was seen to trim and scrape into a rough spear. During the +time they were thus employed, they frequently hallooed to us; no notice +was however taken of their cries, although the temptation was very great +of firing a shot over their heads to show them that they were still +within our reach. As soon as they had finished their work and had made +about a dozen spears, they all got up and walked away. + +After they disappeared behind the hill it was thought not unlikely that +they would attack our people at the watering-place; the party were +therefore sent away in the afternoon well armed, but the natives did not +make their appearance, and the boats returned at sunset without having +been disturbed. The tide was so trifling and the difficulty of loading +the boat so great that only ninety gallons of water were procured; and as +we were not likely to make quicker progress unless we waited for the +spring-tides, we gave up all idea of completing our water, and made +preparations to leave the bay. + +August 10. + +On the following day (10th) as there was no wind all the morning, I sent +for another turn of water but only obtained enough for one day's issue; +for the tide did not rise more than four feet. In the meantime I visited +the extreme point on the west side of the bay, and examined in my way +some openings in the land that, from their appearance, promised to afford +water: as it was low tide I could not enter them, for they were blocked +up by banks of sand and rocks; but on my return the tide was higher, and +I pulled about one mile up the northernmost inlet, where I was again +stopped by the shoalness of the water. All these places must afford +abundance of fresh water during the rainy season, and perhaps are seldom +without; and, as this was a year of unusual drought, it is not improbable +that the river in which we watered generally afforded a very considerable +stream; if so, from its proximity to the anchorage, the bay is of great +importance, and is an excellent place for refreshment: turtle might be +procured at the islands in its vicinity, and abundance of very fine fish +at the sandy beach: the anchorage is safe in all parts, being protected +from the sea by the islands in the offing, which front the bay. There is +also abundance of wood that may be cut close to the waterside. + +Ships detained during the westerly monsoon, as far to leeward as the +meridian of 125 degrees, would find an advantage in putting into Hanover +Bay, and remaining there until the wind should veer round: by which they +would avoid the necessity of beating to windward, over such dangerous +ground as extends between this part to Timor; and, by being to the +southward, out of the strength of the westerly winds, at the latter end +of February and beginning of March, when southerly and south-east winds +prevail on the coast, they might much earlier effect their passage to the +westward. + +The beach of Hanover Bay is situated in latitude 15 degrees 18 minutes 21 +seconds, and 13 minutes 40 seconds West of our observatory at Careening +Bay, which makes its longitude 124 degrees 47 minutes 5 seconds East of +Greenwich. + +August 11. + +The next morning (11th) we left Hanover Bay and steered out at the +distance of a mile and a half from the western shore. After passing round +the western head, we entered a deep opening, and, running into it for +some distance between a rocky shore on either side, came into an +extensive basin, in the centre of which was a high island which we saw at +a distance last year, and then called the Lump, from its shape. As a set +of bearings from this island was desirable, the vessel was anchored +abreast of it at about a mile and a half from the shore; having landed +upon it in time to observe the sun's meridional altitude in the +artificial horizon, we ascended its summit and obtained the desired +bearings; we also discovered Freycinet's Island on the horizon, bearing +North 13 degrees 42 minutes West; this island was distinguished easily by +its form, which is that of an inverted basin. A large island lies in the +centre of the entrance of the port, by which two channels are formed; the +westernmost has several patches of rocks in it, but the eastern one, +which we used, appeared to be clear and free from danger, excepting a +rocky shelf projecting from the eastern shore for not more than three +quarters of a mile. In the afternoon we examined the former, and from a +summit at the south-west end of the island in the entrance obtained +another set of bearings. Afterwards we sounded its channel, and found a +deep passage, but too narrow and intricate to be preferred to the eastern +channel. + +Whilst one boat was thus employed, Mr. Baskerville went to examine an +opening at the bottom of the port, which he reported to be a strait, +trending round to the South-West for six miles, beyond which his view was +intercepted by the next projecting point. The strait, which he called +after Captain R.H. Rogers, R.N., is sprinkled with many islands and dry +reefs of great extent. + +August 12. + +On the 12th I was occupied in laying down the plan of this place, which, +on account of the day, was honoured with the name of our most gracious +king, Port George the Fourth. + +August 13. + +The next day we sailed out by the eastern channel, but having to beat +against the wind, made no further progress than an anchorage off Point +Adieu, which was the last land seen by us in the Mermaid; it is the north +end of the land that forms the west side of Port George the Fourth, which +was afterwards called Augustus Island: to the westward of the point there +appeared to be many islands and much broken land. I sent Mr. Roe to Point +Adieu to get some bearings from the summit of the hill, and in the +meantime Mr. Baskerville sounded the channel between the point and the +islands; which he found to be deep and clear; Mr. Roe's report, however, +of the appearance of the inner part among the islands was not so +favourable, for it is studded over with numerous extensive reefs, which, +being low water, were exposed to view. Mr. Roe saw a tolerably broad +separation between two islands to the south-west, but more to the +westward the islands were so numerous that very little information as to +their shape or number could be obtained. + +August 14. + +At daylight the following morning we weighed, and with a moderate +land-breeze from South-East, steered to the North-West, and passed round +the islands. Very far to the northward on the sea horizon we saw a +sandbank, surrounded with heavy breakers; and more to the westward was an +island, which was at first supposed to be one of the Champagny Isles of +Captain Baudin, but which I afterwards satisfied myself was Captain +Heywood's Red Island: it is rocky and of small extent and apparently +quite barren. We were soon afterwards abreast of a strait leading between +some rocky islands to the southward; which, as it appeared to be free +from danger, we purposed to steer through. The brig entered it at noon, +when it was high-water, and as she advanced and reached the narrow part, +the ebb-tide was setting so strong against us that, although we were +sailing five knots by the log, we were losing ground; we continued +however to persevere for three hours and a half, and had run nearly +twenty miles by the log without gaining an inch; the breeze then died +away, and not being able to stem the tide, we steered back for anchorage, +but it was dark and late before a favourable bottom was found so that we +lost all the progress that we had gained since noon. + +August 15. + +The next morning, after taking angles from the sun's rising amplitude, we +got underweigh and stood towards the strait to make another attempt to +pass through it. The view that was obtained yesterday evening from the +masthead before we put about to look for anchorage, induced us to suppose +that many reefs existed in the neighbourhood of its south entrance, for +one of very extensive size was observed dry, lying off the south-west end +of the island that bounds the west side of the strait. The north end of +that island also appeared to be fronted by many shoals, which either +embrace Red Island and extend to the northward, or else the channels are +narrow and deep. The flowing tide, now in our favour, carried us quickly +forward: as we passed on we heard the voices of natives and soon +afterwards perceived two standing on a hill; our course was, however, so +rapid that we were soon out of sight of them; their fires were seen +yesterday but then they did not make their appearance. + +The flood-tide, running to the South-West through the strait, meeting the +ebb flowing North-East into the deep bay to the South-East, formed many +strong ripplings, which to a stranger would have been a frightful vortex +to have entered, and although we had lately been accustomed to such +appearances, yet we did not encounter them without some fear. After +clearing them we sounded on a muddy bottom; upon which, as the weather +was so thick and hazy as to conceal the land from our view, we anchored +in seventeen fathoms muddy sand, at six miles from the strait. + +In the afternoon the weather cleared a little, but it was still too thick +for us to be underweigh, so that we remained all the evening, which was +profitably spent in bringing up the chart; a little before sunset the +weather cleared and afforded a good view of the land, which to the +South-East is composed principally of islands, but so numerous that the +mainland could not be distinguished beyond them; a point, afterwards +called Point Hall, round which the land trended to the southward, bore +from the anchorage South 19 degrees East. + +The direction of the tides, the flood setting South-South-East, and the +ebb North-North-West and North-West, induced me to suppose that the +opening to the eastward of the bay we were at anchor in, which was called +Camden, in compliment to the noble Marquess, was not only connected with +Rogers Strait, but was also the outlet of another considerable river or +bay. + +At the anchorage the flood did not run at a greater rate than a mile and +a half an hour, but it ebbed two miles, and fell thirty-seven feet, which +is the greatest rise and fall we had yet found; it is probable, from the +intricate nature of the coast, that these high tides are common to all +this neighbourhood. + +August 16. + +At five o'clock on the morning of the 16th after a fine night the wind +sprung up from the East-South-East and blew fresh; but misty weather +immediately after sunrise enveloped us, and clouded our view. The breeze +was too fresh for us to continue at anchor, we therefore got underweigh, +and made sail by the wind; but upon standing across the channel and +finding that the flood-tide set to the South-West, we bore away, and, +passing round Point Hall, steered to the southward towards some low +islands that were just visible through the haze, and which, being +disposed in a group, were named after Mr. Andrew Montgomery, the surgeon +of the Bathurst. + +At noon our latitude observed to the South was 15 degrees 44 minutes 16 +seconds. The land was visible from the deck as far as South 30 degrees +West, but from the masthead at one o'clock it was seen as far as South 50 +degrees West, and a long low island, the westernmost of Montgomery Isles, +bore from South-West by West to South-West by South. The group besides +this contained six other isles, which are all low and rocky and crowned +with bushes: as we approached them the water shoaled to ten fathoms rocky +ground; which on being reduced to the depth of low water, would not be +more than five and perhaps only four fathoms. Between Point Hall and +these islands the ground was also rocky, and, as the group appeared to be +connected by reefs, we steered off to pass round them; the wind, however, +changing to the westward, detained us all the evening near them. + +The land to the southward trended deeply in and appeared to be much +broken in its character and very uninviting to us who had only one anchor +to depend upon. This bight was named, at Mr. Montgomery's request, in +compliment to the late Captain Sir George Collier, Bart., K.C.B., R.N. +During the greater part of the night the wind was light, and by the +bearings of a fire on the land we were making but little drift. + +August 17. + +At sunrise we were near two low islands, bearing South 12 degrees 22 +minutes West, and South 20 degrees West, from which very extensive reefs +were seen extending between the bearings of South and South-West by West. +They were called Cockells Isles. We passed round their north end over a +bottom of hard sand, mixed with shells, stones, and coral; in doing which +we found an irregular depth, but as the water did not shoal to less than +twelve fathoms our course was not altered. Soon after the sun appeared +above the horizon the distant land was again enveloped in mist. At eight +o'clock we ventured to steer more southerly, but continued to sound over +a rocky bottom until ten o'clock, when the islands bore South-East; we +then steered South-West through a muddy channel with the flood tide in +our favour, towards some land that, as the mist partially cleared off, +became visible as far as South-West 1/2 West; some islands were also seen +bearing South-South-East; and at noon, being in latitude 15 degrees 50 +minutes 39 seconds, we found ourselves off a bay, the east head of which +was formed by several islands. The land at the back appeared to be of +tolerable height but its outline was so level, that it did not present +any prominent feature sufficiently defined to take a bearing of more than +once; its coast appeared to be fronted by several rocky islands and to be +very much intersected to the westward; either by straits or considerable +openings. + +The continued hazy state of the weather prevented our ascertaining the +particular feature of the country; it seemed to be rocky and very bare of +vegetation; but they were some parts, particularly on one of the islands +to the eastward at the entrance of Collier's Bay, where a few good-sized +trees were growing over a sandy beach. + +The ebb tide after noon was against us, and the wind being light, we were +making no progress. As sunset approached, we began to look for anchorage; +but the suspicious nature of the bottom and the great depth of the water +prevented our being successful until some time after dark; the anchor was +at last dropped in twenty-eight fathoms, on a bottom of sandy mud, with +the ebb-tide setting to the North-West, at the rate nearly of two knots. + +Several whales of that species called by whalers fin-backs were playing +about us all day, and during the morning two or three were seen near the +vessel lashing the water with their enormous fins and tails, and leaping +at intervals out of the sea, which foamed around them for a considerable +distance. + +After anchoring the wind was variable and light from the western quarter +but during the night there was a heavy swell. The flood-tide, which +commenced at nine o'clock, when the depth was twenty-eight fathoms, +gradually ran stronger until midnight, when its rate was two miles per +hour: high-water took place at 3 hours 15 minutes a.m., or at twelve +minutes before the moon passed her meridian; the rise being thirty-six +feet. + +August 18. + +We were underweigh before six o'clock the next morning, and after +steering by the wind for a short time towards the southward (on which +course the tide being against us we were making no progress) bore up with +the intention of hauling round the point to leeward for anchorage, whence +we might examine the place by the means of our boats, and wait for more +favourable weather; but upon reaching within half a mile of the point we +found that a shoal communication extended across to a string of islands +projecting several miles to sea in a West-North-West direction: in mid +channel the sea was breaking, and from the colour of the water it is more +than probable that a reef of rocks stretches the whole distance across +the strait; but this appearance, from the experience we afterwards had of +the navigation of this part, might have been produced by tide ripplings, +occasioned by the rapidity of the stream, and by its being contracted in +its passage through so narrow a pass; it was however too doubtful and +dangerous to attempt without having some resource to fly to in the event +of accident. + +Being thus disappointed, we were under the necessity of steering round +the above-mentioned range of islands, and at nine o'clock were two miles +North-East by East from the small island 18, when our latitude by +observation was 15 degrees 57 minutes 56 seconds; the depth being +thirty-seven fathoms, and the bottom of coral mixed with sand, mud, and +shells. + +To the westward and in a parallel direction with this line of islands was +another range, towards which we steered; at sunset we hauled to the wind +for the night, off the northernmost island which afterwards proved to be +the Caffarelli Island of Captain Baudin. Between these two ranges of +islands we only obtained one cast of the lead which gave us thirty-three +fathoms on a coral bottom. Upon referring to the French charts of this +part of the coast it appeared that we were in the vicinity of a reef +(Brue Reef) under which the French ships had anchored; and, as the night +was passed under sail, we were not a little anxious, fearing lest there +might be others in its neighbourhood. + +August 19. + +At daybreak Caffarelli Island bore South-South-East; and shortly +afterwards we had the satisfaction of seeing Brue Reef; it appeared to be +partly dry but of small extent. + +We passed within half a mile of the dry rock that lies a mile and a half +from the west end of Caffarelli Island and afterwards endeavoured to +steer between the range of islands, of which Caffarelli is the +northernmost, and a group of rocky isles, marked 33; but finding we could +not succeed from the scanty direction of the wind, then blowing a fresh +breeze from South-East, we bore up round the west side of the latter and +then steered by the wind towards a group of which the island 40 is the +principal. On approaching 40 there appeared to be a channel round its +south-end; but afterwards observing the sea breaking in the direction of +our course, we tacked off to pass round the west extremity of the group, +towards two small low islands, 50 and 51, that were seen in the distance +bearing about South 84 degrees West. The tide, having been before in our +favour, was now against us, and, setting with great strength, drove us +near the rocks that front the islands to the northward of Island 40; the +wind was however sufficiently strong to enable us to clear the dangerous +situation we found ourselves in, but soon afterwards it fell to a light +air and we were carried by the tide rapidly towards the low rocky +extremity of the islets, which we were nearly thrown upon, when a breeze +suddenly sprung up again from the South-East and enabled us to clear this +impending danger. We were now drifting to the South by East through a +wide channel, sounding in between fifty and sixty fathoms, rocky bottom. +Had the evening been less advanced and the wind favourable, we could have +run through, and taken our chance of finding either anchorage or an open +sea; and although this would certainly have been hazarding a great risk, +yet it was of very little consequence in what part of the archipelago we +spent the night, as the spots which we might consider to be the most +dangerous might possibly be the least so. We had however no choice; we +were perfectly at the mercy of the tide, and had only to await patiently +its ebbing to drift us out as it carried us in. + +By our calculations high-water should have taken place at a quarter past +four o'clock; every minute therefore after that time was passed by us +most anxiously. Every now and then we were in the midst of the most +violent ripplings and whirlpools, which sometimes whirled the vessel +round and round, to the danger of our masts. Five o'clock at last arrived +and the tide-eddies ceased, but the stream continued to run until a +quarter of an hour afterwards, when at last the brig began to drift out +slowly. To add now to the dilemma and the danger we were in a breeze +sprung up against us: had it continued calm we should have been drifted +back through the deepest part of the channel, over the same ground that +the flood had carried us in: we however made sail and beat out, and +before dark had made considerable progress; we then lost sight of the +land until eleven o'clock when some was seen to the eastward: at +half-past eleven we had a dead calm; and, to increase our anxiety, the +tide had begun to flow and to drift us towards the land, which was then +ascertained to be the group 33, on whose shores the sea was distinctly +heard to break. As midnight approached the noise became still more and +more plain; but the moon at that time rose and showed that our position +was very much more favourable than we had conjectured; for, by bearings +of Caffarelli Island and the body of 33 group, I found we were at least +two or three miles from the shore of the latter. + +August 20. + +A few minutes after midnight we were relieved from our fears by the +sudden springing up of a fresh breeze from South-West, and in a moment +found ourselves comparatively out of danger. + +At daylight we were eight miles to the north-east of Caffarelli Island; +whence we steered to the South-West by West and South-South-West. Brue +Reef was seen as we passed by it. At noon our latitude was 16 degrees 14 +minutes 1 second, Cape Leveque bearing South. + +From noon until one o'clock we were steering South-South-West, but made +no progress, on account of an adverse tide which occasionally formed such +strong eddies and ripplings that we were several times obliged to steer +off to get without their influence. The land of Cape Leveque is low, and +presents a sandy beach lined by a rocky reef, extending off the shore for +a mile, on many parts of which the sea was breaking heavily: the land was +clothed with a small brush wood, but altogether the coast presented a +very unproductive appearance, and reminded us of the triste and arid +character of the North-West Cape. + +On laying down upon the chart the plan of this part, I found Cape Leveque +to be the point which Dampier anchored under when on his buccaneering +voyage in the Cygnet in 1688. He says: "We fell in with the land of New +Holland in 16 degrees 50 minutes, we ran in close by it, and finding no +convenient anchoring, because it lies open to the North-West, we ran +along shore to the eastward, steering North-East by East, for so the land +lies. We steered thus about two leagues, and then came to a point of +land, from whence the land trends east and southerly for ten or twelve +leagues; but how, afterwards, I know not. About three leagues to the +eastward of this point there is a pretty deep bay with abundance of +islands in it, and a very good place to anchor in or to hale ashore. +About a league to the eastward of that point we anchored in twenty-nine +fathom, good hard sand and clean ground." He then proceeds to say: "This +part of it (the coast) that we saw is all low, even land, with sandy +banks against the sea, only the points are rocky, and so are some of the +islands in the bay."* + +(*Footnote. Dampier volume 1 page 462.) + +From this description I have little hesitation in settling Cape Leveque +to be the point he passed round. In commemoration, therefore, of his +visit, the name of Buccaneer's Archipelago was given to the cluster of +isles that fronts Cygnet Bay, which was so-called after the name of the +ship in which he sailed. The point within Cape Leveque was named Point +Swan after the Captain of the ship; and to a remarkable lump in the +centre of the Archipelago the name of Dampier's Monument was assigned. +During the last four days we have laid down upwards of eighty islands +upon the chart, and from the appearance of the land it is not improbable +but that there may be as many more behind them. + +Had we even recognised the bay above alluded to by Dampier before we +passed round Cape Leveque, we could not have anchored in it for the wind +was blowing strong from the northward, and a heavy swell was rolling, +which would have placed us in rather a dangerous situation, besides its +being exposed to easterly winds, which for the last two or three days had +blown very strong. During the time we had been among these islands, we +had not met with a single spot that we could have anchored upon without +the almost certain loss of our anchor; and the weather had been so very +thick and hazy that only the land in the vicinity of the vessel's +situation could be at all distinguished; and these disadvantages, added +to the great strength of the wind and the rapidity of the tides, had +materially prevented us from making ourselves better acquainted with the +place. It is remarkable that as soon as we passed round the Champagny +Isles, hazy weather commenced, and continued without intermission until +we were to the westward of Cape Leveque. The French complain of the same +thing; and they were so deceived by it that, in their first voyage, they +laid down Adele Island as a part of the main, when it is only a sandy +island about two or three miles long. No natives were seen on any of the +islands but there were many large smokes on the horizon at the back of +Cygnet Bay. + +We were now beginning to feel the effects of this fatiguing duty. +One-fourth of the people who kept watch were ill with bilious or feverish +attacks, and we had never been altogether free from sickness since our +arrival upon the coast. Mr. Montgomery's wound was, however, happily +quite healed, and Mr. Roe had also returned to his duty; but Mr. +Cunningham, who had been confined to the vessel since the day we arrived +in Careening Bay, was still upon the sick list. Our passage up the east +coast, the fatigues of watering and wooding at Prince Regent's River, and +our constant harassing employment during the examination of the coast +between Hanover Bay and Cape Leveque, had produced their bad effects upon +the constitutions of our people. Every means were taken to prevent +sickness: preserved meats were issued two days in the week in lieu of +salt provisions; and this diet, with the usual proportions of lemon-juice +and sugar, proved so good an anti-scorbutic that, with a few trifling +exceptions, no case of scurvy occurred. Our dry provisions had suffered +much from rats and cockroaches; but this was not the only way these +vermin annoyed us, for, on opening a keg of musket ball cartridges, we +found, out of 750 rounds, more than half the number quite destroyed, and +the remainder so injured as to be quite useless. + +August 21. + +The following day we made very little progress, from light winds in the +morning and a dead calm the whole of the evening. At sunset we anchored +at about four miles from the shore, in seventeen fathoms sandy ground. + +During the afternoon we were surrounded by an immense number of whales, +leaping out of the water and thrashing the sea with their fins; the noise +of which, from the calmness and perfect stillness of the air, was as loud +as the report of a volley of musketry. Some remorae were also swimming +about the vessel the whole day, and a snake about four feet long, of a +yellowish brown colour, rose up alongside, but instantly dived upon +seeing the vessel. + +August 22. + +High-water took place the next morning at twenty-six minutes after six +o'clock, at which time we got underweigh with a moderate land-breeze from +South-South-East, and steered to the southward along the shore. At noon +we were in latitude 16 degrees 30 minutes 19 seconds, Cape Borda bearing +South 42 1/2 degrees East. Soon after noon the sea-breeze sprung up from +the northward and, veering to North-West, carried us to the southward +along the coast which is low and sandy. At three o'clock we were abreast +of a point which was conjectured to be the land laid down by the French +as Emeriau Island; the name has therefore been retained, with the +alteration only of Point for Island. To the eastward of Cape Borda the +coast falls back and forms a bay, the bottom of which was visible from +our masthead and appeared to be composed of sand-downs. From Point +Emeriau the coast trends to the south-west, and preserves the same sandy +character. At five o'clock Lacepede Islands, which were seen by Captain +Baudin, were in sight to the westward; and at sunset we anchored in eight +fathoms, at about three leagues within them. These islands are three in +number, and appear to be solely inhabited by boobies and other sea-fowl: +they are low and sandy and all slightly crowned with a few shrubby +bushes; the reef that encompasses them seemed to be of great extent. + +August 23. + +The next day we were steering along the shore, and passed a sandy +projection which was named Cape Baskerville, after one of the midshipman +of the Bathurst. To the southward of Cape Baskerville the coast trends +in, and forms Carnot Bay; it then takes a southerly direction. It is here +that Tasman landed, according to the following extract from Dalrymple's +Papua: "In Hollandia Nova, in 17 degrees 12 minutes South (Longitude 121 +degrees, or 122 degrees East) Tasman found a naked, black people, with +curly hair, malicious and cruel; using for arms, bows and arrows, +hazeygaeys and kalawaeys. They once came to the number of fifty, double +armed, dividing themselves into two parties, intending to have surprised +the Dutch, who had landed twenty-five men; but the firing of guns +frightened them so, that they fled. Their proas are made of the bark of +trees; their coast is dangerous; there are few vegetables; the people use +no houses." + +At noon our latitude was 17 degrees 13 minutes 29 seconds. At four +o'clock we were abreast of Captain Baudin's Point Coulomb, which M. De +Freycinet describes to be the projection at which the Red Cliffs +commence. The interior is here higher than to the northward, and +gradually rises, at the distance of eight miles from the shore, to wooded +hills, and bears a more pleasing and verdant appearance than we have seen +for some time past; but the coast still retains the same sandy and +uninviting character. During the afternoon we had but a light sea-breeze +from the westward; and at sunset the anchor was dropped in thirteen +fathoms fine soft sand, at about six miles from the shore. Large flocks +of boobies flew over the vessel at sunset, directing their course towards +the reefs of Lacepede Islands, and in the direction of the Whale Bank, +which, according to the French chart of this part, lies in the offing to +the westward. As no island was noticed by us in the position assigned to +Captain Baudin's Carnot Island, the bay to the southward of Cape +Baskerville has received that name. The smokes of fires have been noticed +at intervals of every four or five miles along the shore, from which it +may be inferred that this part of the coast is very populous. Captain +Dampier saw forty Indians together, on one of the rocky islands to the +eastward of Cape Leveque, and, in his quaint style, gives the subjoined +interesting account of them: + +"The inhabitants of this country are the miserablest people in the world. +The Hodmadods of Monomatapa, though a nasty people, yet for wealth are +gentlemen to these; who have no houses, and skin garments, sheep, +poultry, and fruits of the earth, ostrich eggs, etc., as the Hodmadods +have: and setting aside their human shape, they differ but little from +brutes. They are tall, straight-bodied, and thin, with small, long limbs. +They have great heads, round foreheads, and great brows. Their eye-lids +are always half closed, to keep the flies out of their eyes; they being +so troublesome here, that no fanning will keep them from coming to one's +face; and without the assistance of both hands to keep them off, they +will creep into one's nostrils, and mouth too, if the lips are not shut +very close; so that from their infancy, being thus annoyed with these +insects, they do never open their eyes as other people; and therefore +they cannot see far, unless they hold up their heads, as if they were +looking at somewhat over them. + +"They have great bottle-noses, pretty full lips, and wide mouths. The two +fore-teeth of their upper jaw are wanting in all of them, men and women, +old and young; whether they draw them out, I know not: neither have they +any beards. They are long-visaged, and of a very unpleasant aspect, +having no one graceful feature in their faces. Their hair is black, short +and curled, like that of the negroes; and not long and lank like the +common Indians. The colour of their skins, both of their faces and the +rest of their body, is coal-black, like that of the negroes of Guinea.* + +(*Footnote. The natives of Hanover Bay, with whom we communicated, were +not deprived of their front teeth, and wore their beards long; they also +differed from the above description in having their hair long and curly. +Dampier may have been deceived in this respect, and from the use that +they make of their hair, by twisting it up into a substitute for thread, +they had probably cut it off close, which would give them the appearance +of having woolly hair like the negro.) + +"They have no sort of clothes, but a piece of the rind of a tree tied +like a girdle about their waists, and a handful of long grass, or three +or four small green boughs full of leaves, thrust under their girdle, to +cover their nakedness. + +"They have no houses, but lie in the open air without any covering; the +earth being their bed, and the heaven their canopy. Whether they cohabit +one man to one woman, or promiscuously, I know not; but they do live in +companies, twenty or thirty men, women, and children together. Their only +food is a small sort of fish, which they get by making weirs of stone +across little coves or branches of the sea; every tide bringing in the +small fish, the there leaving them for a prey to these people, who +constantly attend there to search for them at low water. This small fry I +take to be the top of their fishery: they have no instruments to catch +great fish, should they come; and such seldom stay to be left behind at +low water: nor could we catch any fish with our hooks and lines all the +while we lay there. In other places at low water they seek for cockles, +mussels, and periwinkles. Of these shell-fish there are fewer still; so +that their chief dependence is upon what the sea leaves in their wares; +which, be it much or little, they gather up, and march to the places of +their abode. There the old people that are not able to stir abroad by +reason of their age, and the tender infants, wait their return; and what +Providence has bestowed on them, they presently broil on the coals, and +eat it in common. Sometimes they get as many fish as makes them a +plentiful banquet; and at other times they scarce get every one a taste; +but be it little or much that they get, every one has his part, as well +the young and tender, the old and feeble, who are not able to go abroad, +as the strong and lusty. When they have eaten they lie down till the next +low water, and then all that are able march out, be it night or day, rain +or shine, 'tis all one; they must attend the weirs, or else they must +fast; for the earth affords them no food at all. There is neither herb, +root, pulse, nor any sort of grain for them to eat, that we saw; nor any +sort of bird or beast that they can catch, having no instruments +wherewithal to do so. + +"I did not perceive that they did worship anything. These poor creatures +have a sort of weapon to defend their weir, or fight with their enemies, +if they have any that will interfere with their poor fishery. They did at +first endeavour with their weapons to frighten us, who, lying ashore, +deterred them from one of their fishing-places. Some of them had wooden +swords, others had a sort of lances. The sword is a piece of wood shaped +somewhat like a cutlass.* The lance is a long straight pole, sharp at one +end, and hardened afterwards by heat. I saw no iron, nor any sort of +metal; therefore it is probable they use stone hatchets, as some Indians +in America do, described in Chapter 4. + +(*Footnote. Probably a boomerang. See volume 1.) + +"How they get their fire I know not; but probably as Indians do, out of +wood. I have seen the Indians of Bon-Airy do it, and have myself tried +the experiment. They take a flat piece of wood that is pretty soft, and +make a small dent in one side of it, then they take another hard, round +stick, about the bigness of one's little finger, and sharpened at one end +like a pencil, they put that sharp end in the hole or dent of the flat +soft piece, and then rubbing or twirling the hard piece between the palm +of their hands, they drill the soft piece till it smokes, and at last +takes fire. + +"These people speak somewhat through the throat; but we could not +understand one word that they said. We anchored, as I said before, +January the 5th, and seeing men walking on the shore, we presently sent a +canoe to get some acquaintance with them; for we were in hopes to get +some provision among them. But the inhabitants, seeing our boat coming, +run away and hid themselves. We searched afterwards three days in hopes +to find their houses, but found none; yet we saw many places where they +had made fires. At last, being out of hopes to find their habitations, we +searched no farther; but left a great many toys ashore, in such places +where we thought they would come. In all our search we found no water, +but old wells on the sandy bays. + +"At last we went over to the islands, and there we found a great many of +the natives; I do believe there were forty on one island, men, women, and +children. The men on our first coming ashore, threatened us with their +lances and swords; but they were frightened by firing one gun, which we +fired purposely to scare them. The island was so small that they could +not hide themselves; but they were much disordered at our landing, +especially the women and children; for we went directly to their camp. +The lustiest of the women snatching up their infants ran away howling, +and the little children run after squeaking and bawling; but the men +stood still. Some of the women, and such people as could not go from us, +lay still by a fire, making a doleful noise, as if we had been coming to +devour them: but when they saw we did not intend to harm them, they were +pretty quiet, and the rest that fled from us at our first coming, +returned again. This their place of dwelling was only a fire, with a few +boughs before it, set up on the side the winds was of. + +"After we had been here a little while, the men began to be familiar, and +we clothed some of them, designing to have some service of them for it; +for we found some wells of water here, and intended to carry two or three +barrels of it aboard. But it being somewhat troublesome to carry to the +canoes, we thought to have made these men to have carried it for us, and +therefore we gave them some old clothes; to one an old pair of breeches, +to another a ragged shirt, to the third a jacket that was scarce worth +owning; which yet would have been very acceptable at some places where we +had been, and so we thought they might have been with these people. We +put them on them, thinking that this finery would have brought them to +work heartily for us; and our water being filled in small long barrels, +about six gallons in each, which were made purposely to carry water in, +we brought these our new servants to the wells, and put a barrel on each +of their shoulders for them to carry to the canoe. But all the signs we +could make were to no purpose, for they stood like statues, without +motion, but grinned like so many monkeys, staring one upon another; for +these poor creatures seem not accustomed to carry burdens; and I believe +that one of our ship-boys of ten years old would carry as much as one of +them. So we were forced to carry our water ourselves, and they very +fairly put the clothes off again, and laid them down, as if clothes were +only to work in. I did not perceive that they had any great liking to +them at first, neither did they seem to admire anything that we had. + +"At another time our canoe being among these islands seeking for game, +espied a drove of these men swimming from one island to another; for they +have no boats, canoes, or bark-logs. They took four of them, and brought +them aboard; two of them were middle-aged, the other two were young men +about eighteen or twenty years old. To these we gave boiled rice, and +with it turtle and manatee boiled. They did greedily devour what we gave +them, but took no notice of the ship, or any thing in it, and when they +were set on land again, they ran away as fast as they could. At our first +coming, before we were acquainted with them, or they with us, a company +of them who lived on the main, came just against our ship, and standing +on a pretty high bank, threatened us with their swords and lances, by +shaking them at us: at last the captain ordered the drum to be beaten, +which was done of a sudden with much vigour, purposely to scare the poor +creatures. They hearing the noise, ran away as fast as they could drive; +and when they ran away in haste, they would cry gurry, gurry, speaking +deep in the throat. Those inhabitants also that live on the main would +always run away from us; yet we took several of them. For, as I have +already observed, they had such bad eyes, that they could not see us till +we came close to them. We did always give them victuals, and let them go +again, but the islanders, after our first time of being among them, did +not stir for us."* + +(*Footnote. Dampier volume 1 page 464 et seq.) + +At this anchorage we perceived very little rise and fall of tide, and the +flood and ebb both set to the northward, this was also the case at our +anchorage within the Lacepede Islands. At four o'clock the next morning a +strong south-easterly breeze sprang up, and moderated again before we +weighed; but no sooner were we under sail than it freshened again, and, +at half-past five o'clock, blew so strong as to oblige our double reefing +the topsails, which had not been done for many weeks before. At noon the +wind fell, and was very calm, at which time our latitude observed was 17 +degrees 36 minutes 38 seconds. The highest part of the land bore North 70 +1/2 degrees East, south of which a sandy point, supposed to be Captain +Baudin's Cape Boileau, bore South 87 degrees East; and a smoke, a little +to the northward of the masthead extreme, bearing South 42 degrees East +must be upon the land in the neighbourhood of Cape Latreille. + +Soon after noon the breeze veered round by South to West-South-West, and +enabled us to make some progress; at sunset we again anchored in thirteen +fathoms, soft sand, at six miles from a sandy projection of the main, +which we afterwards found to be the land called by Captain Baudin, +Gantheaume Island; the name has therefore been given to the point, for +there was no appearance of its being insulated. It bears a truly desolate +appearance, being nothing but ridges of bare white sand, scantily crowned +with a few shrubby bushes. + +Behind Point Gantheaume the land appeared to be formed by downs of very +white sand; and between this point and Cape Boileau is a bay, which at +first, from the direction of the flood stream at the anchorage, was +conjectured to be an inlet; but as the tide afterwards set to the +Northward and North-East, it was concluded to be occasioned by the stream +sweeping round the shores of the bay: according to the depth alongside +there was a rise of ten feet; after high-water the ebb set between North +1/2 West and North-North-East, at the rate of a quarter to three quarters +of a knot. + +During the whole day the horizon was occupied by haze, and produced a +very remarkable effect upon the land, which was so raised above the +horizon by refraction that many distant objects became visible that could +not otherwise have been seen. This mirage had been frequently observed by +us on various parts of the coast, but never produced so extraordinary an +effect as on the present occasion. The coastline appeared to be formed of +high chalky cliffs, crowned by a narrow band of woody hillocks; and the +land of Cape Villaret was so elevated as to be distinctly seen at the +distance of forty miles, whereas two days afterwards, the weather being +clear, it was not visible above the horizon for more than five leagues. +This state of the atmosphere caused a rapid evaporation during the day, +and as the evening approached a very copious dew commenced falling, which +by sunset was precipitated like a shower of rain. + +The next morning the land was again enveloped in haze, but at seven +o'clock it cleared off a little, and the coast was observed to trend +round Point Gantheaume to the south-east, but as we had last evening seen +it as far to the westward as South-West by South, we steered in the +latter direction under the idea of there being no opening to the +southward of the point, since the flood-tide flowed from it instead of +towards it, as it naturally would have done had there been any inlet of +consequence thereabout. + +As usual, we had been surrounded by whales, and large flights of boobies; +one of the latter lighted upon the deck this afternoon, and was easily +taken; it seemed to be the same bird (Pelecanus fiber) that frequents the +reefs upon the north and north-eastern coasts. Between sunrise and midday +our progress was much retarded by light south-easterly winds. At noon we +were in 17 degrees 51 minutes 45 seconds South: after which the +sea-breeze set in from South-South-West and South-West, and we steered to +the southward. The land was now visible considerably to the southward of +Point Gantheaume, but of a very low and sandy character; and as we +proceeded it came in sight to the South-South-West. At sunset we anchored +about five or six miles to the north of Captain Baudin's Cape Villaret; +the extreme, which was in sight a little without it, was doubtless his +Cape Latouche-Treville. From Cape Villaret the land trended to the +East-North-East, and was seen very nearly to join the shore at the back +of Point Gantheaume. + +The dew was precipitated as copiously this evening as the last, and the +sun set in a very dense bank; but the night was throughout fine. We now +began to experience a more considerable set of tide than we had found +since rounding Cape Leveque, for the rate was as much as a knot and a +half; but as the tides were neaped it only rose nine feet. + +At an anchorage near this spot, in the year 1699, Captain Dampier remarks +that the tide rose and fell five fathoms, and ran so strong that his +nun-buoy would not watch: but the French expedition, at an anchorage a +little to the southward, found the flood-tide to set South-South-East and +to rise only nine feet, the moon being then three days past her full. All +these particulars have been mentioned, since it is from the nature of the +tides that Captain Dampier formed his hypothesis of the existence of +either a strait or an opening between this and the Rosemary Islands; but +from our experience it would appear more probable that these great tides +are occasioned by the numerous inlets that intersect the coast between +this and Cape Voltaire; a further examination, however, can only prove +the real cause. + +August 26. + +At daylight (26th) we weighed with a light breeze from South-West, but +soon afterwards falling calm, and the tide drifting us to the South-East +the anchor was again dropped: ten minutes afterwards a land breeze from +East-South-East sprung up, to which we again weighed, but no sooner were +we under sail than we were enveloped in a thick mist that blew off the +land, where it had been collecting for the last two days. At eleven +o'clock the fog cleared away to seaward, but the land was screened from +our view until noon, when a sea breeze from west gradually dispersed the +fog, and the hillocky summit of Cape Latouche-Treville was seen, bearing +South 17 degrees West. At half-past twelve two rocky lumps on the land to +the westward of Cape Villaret were seen, and very soon afterwards the +hill on the cape made its appearance. Between Capes Villaret and +Latouche-Treville is a bay formed by very low sandy land, slightly +clothed with a stunted vegetation. The wind was now unfavourable for our +approaching the land, and after standing off to sea and then towards the +shore we anchored in thirteen fathoms coarse sand. + +At this anchorage we found a still greater difference in the tides than +was experienced the night preceding; the flood set South-East by East and +East-South-East; and the ebb from North-North-East round to +West-North-West; the rise was sixteen feet and a half, from which it +would appear probable that there must be some reason for so great an +indraught of water into the bight between Cape Villaret and Point +Gantheaume, which I have named Roebuck Bay, after the ship that Captain +Dampier commanded when he visited this part of the coast. + +As the wind now blew constantly from the South-West, or from some +southern direction, and caused our progress to be very slow and tedious; +and as the shore for some distance to the southward of Cape +Latouche-Treville had been partly seen by the French, I resolved upon +leaving the coast. Our water was also nearly expended, and our +provisions, generally, were in a very bad state; besides which the want +of a second anchor was so much felt that we dared not venture into any +difficulty where the appearance of the place invited a particular +investigation, on account of the exposed nature of the coast, and the +strength of the tides, which were now near the springs: upon every +consideration, therefore, it was not deemed prudent to rely any longer +upon the good fortune that had hitherto so often attended us in our +difficulties. + +August 27. + +Accordingly after weighing, we steered off by the wind, and directed our +course for Mauritius. + +1821. September 22. + +On the 22nd September at daylight after a passage of twenty-five days we +saw Roderigues, five or six leagues to the northward. In the evening a +fresh gale sprung up from the southward and we experienced very bad +weather: at noon of the 24th by our calculation we were seventy-three +miles due East from the north end of Mauritius and, having the day before +experienced a westerly current of one mile per hour, we brought to at +sunset for the night, from the fear of getting too near the shore. + +September 25. + +At daylight the following morning, being by the reckoning only +thirty-four miles to the eastward of the north end of the island, we bore +up for it; but the land, being enveloped in clouds, was not seen until +noon; we then found ourselves off the south-east end, instead of the +north point; having been set to the southward since yesterday noon at the +rate of three quarters of a mile an hour: in consequence of which we +determined upon going round the south side, and bore up for that purpose; +upon approaching the land we found another current setting us to the +north. + +September 26. + +The next morning at nine o'clock we passed round the Morne Brabant, the +south-west point of the island, but it was four o'clock before we reached +our anchorage (at a cable's length within the flag beacon at the entrance +of Port Louis) in fifteen fathoms mud; we were then visited by the Health +Officer, and afterwards by a boat from H.M. Ship Menai, which was at +anchor in the port. + +September 27. + +But as it was too late that evening to enter the brig was not moved until +the following morning, when she was warped in and moored head and stern +within the harbour. + +My wants were immediately made known to Captain Moresby, C.B. (of H.M. +Ship Menai) who directed the necessary repairs to be performed by the +carpenters of his ship; those articles which could not be supplied from +the Menai's stores were advertised for in the Mauritius Gazette, when the +most reasonable tenders were accepted. + +As many of the carpenters and caulkers of the Menai as could be spared +from their other occupations were daily employed upon our repairs; but +from her being put into quarantine and other unforeseen delays they were +not completed for nearly a month: our sails were repaired by the Menai's +sailmakers; and, as all our running rigging was condemned and we had very +little spare rope on board, her rope-makers made sufficient for our +wants. The greater part of our bread, being found in a damaged state from +leaks, was surveyed and condemned. + +Captain Flinders' account of Mauritius appears to have been drawn up with +much correctness and judgment, and is, even at the present day, so +descriptive of the island as to be considered, both by the English and +French residents of Port Louis, as the best that has yet been given to +the world. Many alterations and considerable improvements have however +taken place since his departure, and among the latter the improved system +of the culture of the sugar cane, and the introduction of modern +machinery into their mills, may be particularly mentioned. These have +been effected entirely by the political changes that have, since Captain +Flinders' captivity, taken place in the government of the island; and by +the example and exertions of the English, who possess very large +plantations, and indeed may be considered now as the principal +proprietors of the land. + +(*Footnote. It afforded me very great pleasure to hear the high terms in +which my late friend and predecessor Captain Flinders was spoken of by +the inhabitants of this island, and their general regret at his infamous +detention. His friend M. Pitot had lately died, but I met many French +gentlemen who were acquainted with him. General Decaen, the governor, was +so much disliked by the inhabitants that Captain Flinders gained many +friends at his expense who would not otherwise have troubled themselves +about him; and this circumstance probably went far towards increasing the +severity of the treatment he so unjustly received. An anecdote of him was +related to me by a resident of Port Louis, which, as it redounds to his +honour, I cannot lose the gratification of recording. + +When Captain Flinders was at the house of Madame d'Arifat in the district +of Plains Wilhelms, in which he was latterly permitted to reside upon his +parole, an opportunity of escaping from the island was offered to him by +the commander of a ship bound to India: it was urged to him by his +friends that, from the tyrannical treatment he had received and the +unjustifiable detention he was enduring, no parole to such a man as +General Decaen ought to be thought binding or prevent him from regaining +his liberty and embracing any opportunity of returning to his friends and +country. The escape was well planned, and no chance of discovery likely +to happen: the ship sailed from Port Louis, and at night, bringing to on +the leeward side of the island abreast of Captain Flinders' residence, +sent a boat to the appointed spot which was six miles only from Madame +d'Arifat's house; but after waiting until near daylight without the +captain making his appearance the boat returned to the vessel, which was +obliged to pursue her voyage to prevent suspicion. + +It is almost needless to add that Captain Flinders did not think it +consistent with his feelings to take advantage of the opportunity, nor to +effect his escape from imprisonment by a conduct so disgraceful to the +character of a British officer and to the honourable profession to which +he belonged.) + +For some years past coffee has entirely failed upon the island and cotton +is seldom seen growing. The principal attention of the habitans appeared +to be given to the cultivation of the sugar cane and maize, both of which +had begun to produce an abundant return to the planters; the manihot is +also generally cultivated: but the dreadful effects of the hurricanes to +which this island is exposed render property of so precarious and +doubtful a tenure that nothing is secure until the season for these +destructive visitations is over; they last from the beginning of December +to the end of April and generally occur about the full of the moon, being +invariably preceded by an unsteady motion of the mercury in the +barometer. They are not always so violent as to be termed hurricanes: the +last experienced before our visit was merely a coup de vent, by which +very little damage was sustained.* + +(*Footnote. In the month of January, 1824 this unfortunate island was +again visited and laid waste by a tremendous hurricane that did very +considerable damage, and has in a great measure destroyed the prosperous +state which the island was beginning to arrive at from the previous long +absence of this dreadful visitation.) + +The town of Port Louis which is at the north-west, or leeward, side of +the island, is built at the extremity of an amphitheatre of low land, +backed in by a high and precipitous range, upon which Peter Botte and the +Pouce are conspicuous features. The streets are laid out at rightangles, +the principal of which lead from the Chaussee to the Champ de Mars, a +plot of grassy land about half a mile square that intervenes between the +town and the hills. This is the promenade, the drive, the racecourse, +and, in fact, the principal resort for the inhabitants. It is skirted by +houses and gardens and is a valuable acquisition to the town. The +Chaussee and other streets are well furnished with useful shops of which +those of the Tinman, the Druggist, and the Conservateur et Patissier, are +the most numerous. + +The houses, generally of wood, are irregularly built, and far from being +elegant in their appearance; those however that have been lately +constructed by our countrymen have already given the place an appearance +of solidity that it could not boast of before, and several substantial +stone dwellings and stones have lately been erected. The roads for seven +or eight miles out of the town, leading to Pamplemousses, to Plains +Wilhelms and to Moca districts, are very good and are kept in repair +partly by Malabar convicts from India; but travelling beyond that +distance is performed in palanquins which four bearers will carry, at a +steady pace, at the rate of six miles per hour. + +At the time of our visit there were few fruits ripe; but when we were +about to sail the mango of delicious flavour began to be common; besides +which there were coconuts, guavas, papaws, grapes, the letchy (or +let-chis, a Chinese fruit) and some indifferent pineapples. The ship's +company were supplied daily with fresh beef and vegetables. The latter +were procured in abundance at the bazaar and were exceedingly fine, +particularly carrots and cabbages of an unusually large size and fine +flavour. Bullocks are imported into the island from Madagascar, in which +trade there are two vessels constantly engaged during the fine season. + +Horses are very scarce; they are imported from the Cape of Good Hope and +fetch a high price: a cargo of a hundred and seventy-seven mules arrived +from Buenos Ayres while we were at Port Louis, which, on being sold by +auction, averaged each one hundred and eighty dollars. To encourage the +importation of these useful animals a premium of five dollars is offered +by the government for every mule that is brought alive to the island. + +The circulating medium was principally of paper but bore a very great +depreciation; the premium upon bills of exchange upon Europe, at the time +of our departure, was as much as 66 to 76 per cent, and upon silver coin +there was a depreciation of 45 per cent. + +On the voyage to this place three charts of the north-west coast were +reduced and copied by Mr. Roe and were forwarded to the Admiralty by H.M. +Sloop Cygnet, together with a brief account of our voyage from the time +that we parted company with the Dick, off Cape Van Diemen. + +No observations were taken at this place excepting for ascertaining the +rates of the chronometers, and for the variation and dip of the magnetic +needle: the former being 12 degrees 31 minutes West, and the latter 51 +degrees 42 minutes 1 second. The situation of the observatory has been +long since fixed by the Abbe de la Caille in 20 degrees 10 minutes South +latitude, and 57 degrees 29 minutes East longitude. + +I cannot conclude this very brief account of our visit to Mauritius +without expressing my acknowledgments for the civilities and hospitality +we received from our countrymen at Port Louis, particularly from His +Excellency Sir Robert T. Farquhar, Bart., who so long and ably presided +as Governor of the Island; and for the valuable assistance rendered me in +our re-equipment by Captain Fairfax Moresby, C.B., of H.M. Ship Menai, +for which the expedition I had the honour to command is under more than a +common professional obligation. + + + +CHAPTER 3. +Departure from Port Louis. +Voyage to the South-west Coast of New Holland. +Anchor in King George the Third's Sound. +Occurrences there. +Visited by the Natives. +Our intercourse with them. +Descriptions of their weapons and other implements. +Vocabulary of their language. +Meteorological and other observations. +Edible plants. +Testaceous productions. + +1821. November 10. + +On the 10th November we were ready for sea. + +November 15. + +But, from various delays, did not quit the port until the 15th. At +midnight we passed round the Morne Brabant, and the next evening at +sunset saw the high land of Bourbon: for the first two days we had +south-east winds and upon reaching the parallel of 25 degrees, the winds +became light and baffling with calms. + +November 21. + +But as we advanced more to the southward they gradually veered to east +and north-east, and afterwards to north-west, with very fine weather. + +November 28. + +We did not get out of the influence of these variable winds until the +28th when we were at noon in latitude 32 degrees 47 minutes and longitude +65 degrees 5 minutes; after which we encountered westerly winds and rough +weather. On the whole we had a very quick passage to the coast of New +Holland; and for the last week were expedited by a strong westerly gale +without encountering any accident or the occurrence of any circumstance +worth recording. + +1821. December 23. + +On the 23rd December at daylight the land about Cape Chatham was in +sight, and a course was directed to the eastward for King George's Sound; +where it was my intention to complete our wood and water previous to +commencing the examination of the west coast. At four o'clock in the +afternoon we hauled round Bald Head and, entering the Sound, soon +afterwards anchored at one mile from the entrance of Princess Royal +Harbour. + +December 24. + +Having at our former visit re-fitted at Oyster Harbour, I wished on this +occasion to try Princess Royal Harbour; but as I was both unacquainted +with its entrance, as well as its convenience for our purposes, excepting +from Captain Flinders' account, I hoisted the boat out early the next +morning, to make the necessary examination before the sea-breeze +commenced. Whilst the boat was preparing a distant shouting was heard, +and upon our looking attentively towards the entrance several Indians +were seen sitting on the rocks on the north head hallooing and waving to +us, but no further notice than a return of their call was taken until +after breakfast, when we pulled towards them in the whale-boat. As we +drew near the shore they came down to receive us and appeared from their +gestures to invite our landing; but in this they were disappointed, for, +after a little vociferation and gesture on both sides, we pulled into the +harbour, whilst they walked along the beach abreast the boat. As the +motions of every one of them were attentively watched it was evident that +they were not armed; each wore a kangaroo-skin cloak over his left +shoulder that covered the back and breast but left the right arm exposed. +Upon reaching the spot which Captain Flinders occupied in the +Investigator I found that the brig could not anchor near enough to the +shore to carry on our different operations without being impeded by the +natives, even though they should be amicably disposed. Our plan was +therefore altered and, as the anchorage formerly occupied by the Mermaid +in the entrance of Oyster Harbour would be on all accounts more +convenient for our purposes, I determined upon going thither. + +By this time the natives had reached that part of the beach where the +boat was lying, and were wading through the water towards us; but as we +had no wish at present to communicate with them, for fear that, by +refusing anything we had in the boat, for which their importunity would +perhaps be very great, a quarrel might be occasioned, we pulled off into +deeper water where we remained for five minutes parleying with them, +during which they plainly expressed their disappointment and +mortification at our want of confidence. Upon making signs for fresh +water, which they instantly understood, they called out to us "badoo, +badoo," and pointed to a part of the bay where Captain Flinders has +marked a rivulet. Badoo, in the Port Jackson language, means water; it +was thought probable that they must have obtained it from some late +visitors; and in this opinion we were confirmed, for the word kangaroo +was also familiar to them.* + +(*Footnote. The San Antonio, merchant brig, the vessel that joined our +company during our passage up the east coast, visited this port in +December 1820 and communicated with the natives; it is therefore probable +that the above words were obtained from that vessel's crew.) + +Upon our return towards the entrance the natives walked upon the beach +abreast the boat, and kept with her until we pulled out of the entrance, +when they resumed their former station upon the rocks and we returned on +board. + +Upon reaching the brig, the anchor was weighed, and with a fresh +sea-breeze from South-East we soon reached Oyster Harbour, but in +crossing the bar the vessel took the ground in eleven and a half feet +water, and it was some time before we succeeded in heaving her over, and +reaching the anchorage we had occupied at our last visit. Whilst warping +in, the natives, who had followed the vessel along the sandy beach that +separates the two harbours, were amusing themselves near us in striking +fish with a single barbed spear, in which sport they appeared to be +tolerably successful. As soon as we passed the bar three other natives +made their appearance on the east side, who, upon the boat going to that +shore to lay out the kedges, took their seats in it as unceremoniously as +a passenger would in a ferry-boat; and upon its returning to the brig, +came on board, and remained with us all the afternoon, much amused with +everything they saw, and totally free from timidity or distrust. Each of +our visitors was covered with a mantle of kangaroo-skin, but these were +laid aside upon their being clothed with other garments, with the novelty +of which they appeared greatly diverted. The natives on the opposite +shore seeing that their companions were admitted, were loudly vociferous +in their request to be sent for also; but unfortunately for them it was +the lee shore, so that no boat went near them; and as we did not wish to +be impeded by having so many on the deck at one time, their request was +not acceded to and by degrees they separated and retired in different +directions. + +As soon as the brig was secured two of our visitors went ashore, +evidently charged with some message from the other native, but as he +voluntarily remained on board nothing hostile was suspected; we therefore +landed and dug a hole three feet deep among the grass about two yards +above the highest tide-mark, for water; but it was found to be so highly +coloured and muddy as it flowed in, that other holes were dug in the sand +nearer the edge of the tide-mark, where it was also produced, and proved +to be of a much better taste, as well as clearer, from being filtered +through the sand. + +On examining the place of our former encampment, it was so much altered +from the rapid growth of vegetation that we could scarcely recognise its +situation. The stem of the casuarina on which the Mermaid's name and the +date of our visit had been carved was almost destroyed by fire; and the +inscription in consequence so nearly obliterated that the figures 1818, +and two or three letters alone remained visible. There was not the least +trace of our garden, for the space which it formerly occupied was covered +by three or four feet of additional soil, formed of sand and decayed +vegetable matter and clothed with a thicket of fine plants in full +flower, that would be much prized in any other place than where they +were. The initials of the names of some of our people were still very +perfect upon the stem of a large Banksia grandis which, from being +covered with its superb flowers, bore a magnificent and striking +appearance. + +After an absence of an hour our two friends returned, when it appeared +that they had been at their toilet, for their noses and faces had +evidently been fresh smeared over with red ochre, which they pointed out +to us as a great ornament; affording another proof that vanity is +inherent in human nature and not merely the consequence of civilisation. +They had however put off the garments with which we had clothed them and +resumed their mantles. + +Each brought a lighted fire-stick in his hand, intending, as we supposed, +to make a fire, and to pass the night near the vessel, in order to watch +our intentions and movements. + +On returning on board we desired the native who had remained behind to go +ashore to his companions, but it was with great reluctance that he was +persuaded to leave us. Whilst on board, our people had fed him +plentifully with biscuit, yams, pudding, tea, and grog, of which he ate +and drank as if he was half famished, and after being crammed with this +strange mixture and very patiently submitting his beard to the operation +of shaving, he was clothed with a shirt and a pair of trousers, and +christened Jack, by which name he was afterwards always called, and to +which he readily answered. As soon as he reached the shore, his +companions came to meet him to hear an account of what had transpired +during their absence, as well as to examine his new habiliments which, as +may be conceived, had effected a very considerable alteration in his +appearance, and at the same time that the change created much admiration +on the part of his companions, it raised him very considerably in his own +estimation. It was however a substitution that did not improve his +appearance; in fact he cut but a sorry figure in our eyes, in his +chequered shirt and tarry trousers, when standing amongst his companions, +with their long beards and kangaroo-skin mantles thrown carelessly over +their shoulders. + +Upon being accosted by his companions Jack was either sullen with them or +angry with us for sending him on shore, for without deigning to reply to +their questions he separated himself from them, and after watching us in +silence for some time, walked quietly and slowly away, followed at a +distance by his friends who were lost in wonder at what could have +happened to their sulky companion. The grog that he had been drinking had +probably taken effect upon his head and, although the quantity was very +trifling, he might have been a little stupefied. + +December 25. + +At daylight the following morning the natives had again collected on both +sides, and upon the jolly-boat's landing the people to examine the wells +Jack, having quite recovered his good humour, got into the boat and came +on board. The natives on the opposite side were vociferous to visit us, +and were holding long conversations with Jack, who explained everything +to them in a song, to which they would frequently exclaim in full chorus +the words "Cai, cai, cai, cai, caigh" which they always repeated when +anything was shown that excited their surprise. Finding we had no +intention of sending a boat for them they amused themselves in fishing. +Two of them were watching a small seal that, having been left by the tide +on the bank, was endeavouring to waddle towards the deep water; at last +one of the natives, fixing his spear in its throwing-stick, advanced very +cautiously and, when within ten or twelve yards, lanced it, and pierced +the animal through the neck, when the other instantly ran up and stuck +his spear into it also, and then beating it about the head with a small +hammer very soon despatched it. + +This event collected the whole tribe to the spot, who assisted in landing +their prize and washing the sand off the body; they then carried the +animal to their fire at the edge of the grass and began to devour it even +before it was dead. Curiosity induced Mr. Cunningham and myself to view +this barbarous feast and we landed about ten minutes after it had +commenced. The moment the boat touched the sand the natives, springing up +and throwing their spears away into the bushes, ran down towards us; and +before we could land had all seated themselves in the boat ready to go on +board, but they were obliged to wait whilst we landed to witness their +savage feast. On going to the place we found an old man seated over the +remains of the carcass, two-thirds of which had already disappeared; he +was holding a long strip of the raw flesh in his left hand, and tearing +it off the body with a sort of knife; a boy was also feasting with him +and both were too intent upon their breakfast to notice us or to be the +least disconcerted at our looking on. We however were very soon satisfied +and walked away perfectly disgusted with the sight of so horrible a +repast, and the intolerable stench occasioned by the effluvia that arose +from the dying animal, combined with that of the bodies of the natives +who had daubed themselves from head to foot with a pigment made of a red +ochreous earth mixed up with seal-oil. + +We then conveyed the natives, who had been waiting with great patience in +the boat for our return, to the vessel, and permitted them to go on +board. Whilst they remained with us Mr. Baskerville took a man from each +mess to the oyster-bank; here he was joined by an Indian carrying some +spears and a throwing-stick, but on Mr. Baskerville's calling for a +musket that was in the boat (to the use of which they were not strangers) +he laid aside his spears, which probably were only carried for the +purpose of striking fish, and assisted our people in collecting the +oysters. As soon as they had procured a sufficient quantity they returned +on board when, as it was breakfast time, our visitors were sent onshore, +highly pleased with their reception and with the biscuit and pudding +which the people had given them to eat. They were very attentive to the +mixture of a pudding, and a few small dumplings were made and given to +them, which they put on the bars of the fireplace but, being too +impatient to wait until they were baked, ate them in a doughy state with +much relish. + +Three new faces appeared on the east side, who were brought on board +after breakfast, and permitted to remain until dinner-time: one of them, +an old man, was very attentive to the sailmaker's cutting out a boat's +sail, and at his request was presented with all the strips that were of +no use. When it was completed a small piece of canvas was missing, upon +which the old man, being suspected of having secreted it, was slightly +examined, but nothing was found upon him; after this, while the people +were looking about the deck, the old rogue assisted in the search and +appeared quite anxious to find it; he however very soon walked away +towards another part of the deck and interested himself in other things. +This conduct appeared so suspicious that I sent the sailmaker to examine +the old man more closely, when the lost piece was found concealed under +his left arm, which was covered by the cloak he wore of kangaroo-skin. +This circumstance afforded me a good opportunity of showing them our +displeasure at so flagrant a breach of the confidence we had reposed in +them; I therefore went up to him and, assuming as ferocious a look as I +could, shook him violently by the shoulders. At first he laughed but +afterwards, when he found I was in earnest, became much alarmed: upon +which his two companions, who were both boys, wanted to go onshore; this +however was not permitted until I had made peace with the old man, and +put them all in good humour by feeding them heartily upon biscuit. The +two boys were soon satisfied; but the old man appeared ashamed and +conscious of his guilt; and although he was frequently afterwards with +us, yet he always hung down his head and sneaked into the background. + +During the day the people were employed about the rigging, and in the +evening before sunset the natives were again admitted on board for half +an hour. In the afternoon Mr. Montgomery went to Green Island and shot a +few parrakeets and waterbirds, some of which he gave to the natives after +explaining how they had been killed, which of course produced great +applause. + +December 26. + +The next day was employed in wooding and watering, in which the natives, +particularly our friend Jack, assisted. We had this day twenty-one +natives about us and among them were five strangers. They were not +permitted to come on board until four o'clock in the afternoon, excepting +Jack, who was privileged to come and go as he liked, which, since it did +not appear to create any jealousy among his companions, enabled us to +detain him as a hostage for Mr. Cunningham's safety, who was busily +engaged in adding to his collections from the country in the vicinity of +the vessel. + +In the evening Jack climbed the rigging as high as the top masthead, much +to the amusement of his companions but to the mortification of Bundell +who had never taken courage to mount so high. + +The waterholes yielded about a ton of water a day; but a stream was found +in the sandy bay to the eastward of the entrance, running over the beach, +which we used when the holes were emptied of their contents; the latter +were however preferred, since our people worked at them under an +immediate protection from the vessel's deck. Near the stream we found +some felled trees and the staves of a cask.* + +(*Footnote. At this place the San Antonio merchant brig wooded and +watered in 1820.) + +December 27 to 28. + +Our watering continued to proceed without molestation from the natives; +the number of whom had increased to twenty-nine, besides some whom we had +before seen that were now absent. During the afternoon of the 28th the +wind freshened from south-west and blew so strong as to cause a +considerable swell where we were lying; but towards sunset the breeze +moderated and the natives were again admitted on board; there were, +however, only eleven, for the rest, having worn out their patience, had +walked away. + +They were now quite tractable and never persisted in doing anything +against our wishes. The words "by and by" were so often used by us in +answer to their cau-wah, or "come here," that their meaning was perfectly +understood and always satisfied the natives, since we made it a strict +rule never to disappoint them of anything that was promised, an attention +to which is of the utmost importance in communicating with savages. Every +evening that they visited us they received something, but as a biscuit +was the most valuable present that could be made, each native was always +presented with one upon his leaving the vessel; during the day they were +busily occupied in manufacturing spears, knives, and hammers, for the +evening's barter; and when they came in the morning they generally +brought a large collection, which their wives had probably made in their +absence. + +December 29. + +On the 29th we had completed our holds with wood and water and prepared +to leave the harbour. In the morning there was thirteen feet water at the +buoy which had been moored on the deepest part of the bar, the depth of +which, during the two preceding days, had been frequently sounded. + +In the evening we were visited by twenty-four natives among whom was our +friend Jack. When they found us preparing to go away they expressed great +sorrow at our departure, particularly Jack, who was more than usually +entertaining but kept, as he always did, at a distance from his +companions and treated them with the greatest disdain. When the time came +to send them on shore he endeavoured to avoid accompanying them and as +usual was the last to go into the boat; instead however of following +them, he went into a boat on the opposite side of the brig that was +preparing to go for a load of water, evidently expecting to be allowed to +return in her. + +This friendly Indian had become a great favourite with us all and was +allowed to visit us whenever he chose and to do as he pleased; he always +wore the shirt that had been given to him on the first day and +endeavoured to imitate everything that our people were employed upon; +particularly the carpenter and the sailmaker at their work: he was the +only native who did not manufacture spears for barter, for he was +evidently convinced of the superiority of our weapons and laughed +heartily whenever a bad and carelessly-made spear was offered to us for +sale: for the natives, finding we took everything, were not very +particular in the form or manufacturer of the articles they brought to +us. He was certainly the most intelligent native of the whole tribe and +if we had remained longer would have afforded us much information of this +part of the country; for we were becoming more and more intelligible to +each other every day: he frequently accompanied Mr. Cunningham in his +walks and not only assisted him in carrying his plants but occasionally +added to the specimens he was collecting. + +December 30. + +The next morning (30th) the anchors were weighed and the warps laid out, +but from various delays we did not reach a birth sufficiently near the +bar to make sail from, until the water had fallen too much to allow our +passing it: the brig was therefore moored in the stream of the tide. + +At eight o'clock the natives came down as usual and were much +disappointed in finding the brig moved from her former place. After the +vessel was secured the launch and jolly-boat were sent to the +watering-place in the outer bay, where the eastern party were assembled +with a bundle of spears, throwing-sticks, and knives, for barter. Upon +the return of the boats our friend Jack came on board and appeared +altogether so attached to us that some thoughts were entertained of +taking him on our voyage up the west coast if he was inclined to go. As +he did not want for intelligence there was not much difficulty in making +him understand by signs that he might go with us, to which he appeared to +assent without the least hesitation, but that it might be satisfactorily +ascertained whether he really wished to go it was intimated to him that +he should tell his companions of this new arrangement. Mr. Bedwell +accordingly took him on shore, and purchased all the spears the natives +had brought down, that, in case they should feel angry at his leaving +them, they might have no weapons to do any mischief with. + +When Jack landed he instantly informed his companions of his intended +departure and pointed to the sea, to show whither he was going, but his +friends received the intelligence with the most careless indifference, +their attention being entirely engrossed with the barter that was going +on. After the spears were purchased Mr. Bedwell got into the boat +followed by Jack, who seated himself in his place with apparent +satisfaction. + +While Mr. Bedwell was purchasing the spears and other weapons Jack +brought him a throwing-stick that he had previously concealed behind a +bush and sold it to him for a biscuit; but after he had embarked and the +boat was leaving the shore he threw it among his companions, thereby +affording us a most satisfactory proof of the sincerity of his +intentions. + +About an hour after he had returned and I had determined upon taking him, +the breeze freshened and raised a short swell which, causing a slight +motion, affected our friend's head so much that he came to me and, +touching his tongue and pointing to the shore, intimated his wish to +speak to the natives. He was therefore immediately landed and Mr. +Baskerville, after purchasing some spears and waiting a few minutes, +prepared to return on board: upon getting into the boat he looked at our +volunteer but Jack, having had a taste of sea-sickness, shook his head +and hung back; he was therefore left on shore. Upon the boat's leaving +the beach the natives dispersed for the night but Jack, as usual, was +perceived to separate himself from his companions and to walk away +without exchanging a word with them. + +December 31. + +The weather at daylight the next morning (31st) was too unsettled and the +breeze too strong from the westward to think of moving from the +anchorage. Jack and another native were down on the rocks at an early +hour, hallooing and waving to us, and at eight o'clock some natives +appeared on the opposite shore with spears and knives to barter, but we +had no communication with them. + +During our visit we have obtained from these people about one hundred +spears, thirty throwing-sticks, forty hammers, one hundred and fifty +knives, and a few hand-clubs, the value of each being at from half to +one-eighth of a biscuit. We saw no fizgig, shield, nor boomerang; it is +probable that they may have such weapons but did not produce them from a +dislike at parting with them; but the knives, spears, and hammers which +did not require much labour to manufacture were always ready for barter, +particularly the first, but the greater part were, like Peter Pindar's +razors, only made for sale. + +Altogether we saw about forty natives of whom ten were boys: they were in +most respects similar to their neighbours, having the same long curly +hair and slight figure; they did not appear to be a navigating tribe, for +we saw no canoes, nor did we observe any trees in the woods with the bark +stripped, of which material they are usually made; and, from the timid +manner they approached the water, it is more than probable that they are +not much accustomed even to swimming. Captain Flinders is mistaken in +stating that the natives of this place do not use the throwing-stick; but +it is probable they did not produce those instruments to him, for fear of +being deprived of them, for it required much persuasion on our part to +prevail upon them to let us have any; they were much more ingeniously +formed than others that we had previously seen, and different also, in +having a small sharp-edged shell, or piece of quartz, fixed in a gummy +knob at the handle, for the purpose of scraping the points of the spears: +the shaft is broad, smooth and flat. Some of these throwing-sticks, or +mearas, were three inches broad and two feet six inches long. See Woodcut +3. + +The spears are very slender, and are made from a species of leptospermum +that grows abundantly in swampy places; they are from nine to ten feet +long and barbed with a piece of hard wood, fastened on by a ligature of +bark gummed over; we saw none that were not barbed, or had not a hole at +the end to receive the hooked point of the meara. Woodcut 4 shows the +method by which this weapon is propelled. + +The hammer, or kaoit, appears to be used only for the purpose of breaking +open shellfish, and killing seals and other animals by striking them on +the head; for it has no sharpened edge to be used as a chopping or +cutting instrument; the handle is from twelve to fifteen inches long, +having one end scraped to a sharp point, and on each side at the other +end two pieces of hard stone fixed and cemented by a mass of gum, which, +when dry, is almost as hard as the stone itself; the hammer is about one +pound weight. See Woodcut 5. + +The knife, or taap, is perhaps the rudest instrument of the sort that +ever was made; the handle is about twelve inches long, scraped to a point +like the hammer, and has, at the other end, three or four splinters of +sharp-edged quartz stuck on in a row with gum, thus forming a sort of +ragged instrument. See Woodcut 6. It is thus used: after they have put +within their teeth a sufficient mouthful of seal's flesh, the remainder +is held in their left hand, and, with the taap in the other, they saw +through, and separate the flesh.* Every native carries one or more of +these knives in his belt besides the hammer which is also an +indispensable instrument with them. + +(*Footnote. A very good idea may be obtained of the manner in which these +taaps are used, by referring to Captain Lyon's drawing of the Esquimaux +sledges at page 290 of Parry's Second Voyage: the natives of King +George's Sound however hold the knife underhanded, and cut upwards.) + +We did not perceive that these people acknowledged any chief or superior +among them; the two parties that collected daily on the opposite sides of +the harbour evidently belonged to the same tribe for they occasionally +mixed with each other. Their habitations were probably scattered about in +different parts for when the natives went away for the night they +separated into several groups, not more than three or four going +together, and these generally returned in company the next morning by the +same path which they had taken when they left us: they also arrived at +different times and some evidently came from a distance greater than +others, for they were later in arriving and always took their leave at an +earlier hour. + +With the exception of one or two petty thefts besides the one +above-mentioned of which serious notice was taken, and an attempt to +steal a hat from one of the boys when he was by himself on the Oyster +Bank, our communication with these people was carried on in the most +friendly manner. Mr. Cunningham was, to their knowledge, on shore every +day attended only by his servant, but none, excepting Jack, followed him +after they had ascertained the intention of his walk, and observed the +care that he took to avoid going near their habitations, for which they +evinced a great dislike; one of their encampments was about a mile and a +half off but, curious as we naturally were to witness their mode of +living and to see the females and children of their tribe, we never +succeeded in persuading them to allow us to gratify our curiosity. On one +occasion it was necessary to lay a kedge anchor out in the direction of +their dwelling-place, and upon the boat's crew landing and carrying it +along the beach, the natives followed and intimated by signs that we +should not go that way; as soon however as the anchor was fixed and they +understood our intention, they assisted the people in carrying the hawser +to make fast to it. + +They were well-acquainted with the effects of a musket, although not the +least alarmed at having one fired off near them. Everything they saw +excited their admiration, particularly the carpenter's tools and our +clothes; but what appeared to surprise them above all other things was +the effect produced upon the flesh by a burning-glass, and of its causing +the explosion of a train of gunpowder. They perfectly understood that it +was from the sun that the fire was produced, for on one occasion when +Jack requested me to show it to two or three strangers whom he had +brought to visit us I explained to him that it could not be done while +the sun was clouded; he then waited patiently for five minutes until the +sunshine reappeared, when he instantly reminded me of the removal of the +obstacle. He was a good deal surprised at my collecting the rays of the +sun upon my own hand, supposing that I was callous to the pain, from +which he had himself before shrunk; but as I held the glass within the +focus distance, no painful sensation was produced; after which he +presented me his own arm, and allowed me to burn it as long as I chose to +hold the glass, without flinching in the least, which, with greater +reason, equally astonished us in our turn. + +They were all furnished, as has been before mentioned, with a cloak of +kangaroo-skin, which is always taken off and spread under them when they +lie down. Their hair was dressed in different ways; sometimes it was +clotted with red pigment and seal oil, clubbed up behind, and bound round +with a fillet of opossum-fur, spun into a long string, in which +parrot-feathers, escalop shells, and other ornaments being fixed in +different fanciful ways, gave the wearer a warlike appearance. + +Their faces and sometimes their whole bodies were daubed over with a +mixture of seal oil and red pigment that caused a most disgusting +effluvia; but the only colouring matter that our friend Jack used, after +his acquaintance with us, was the carpenter's chalk, which he thought +particularly ornamental. + +Bracelets of dog-tails or kangaroo-skin were commonly worn and one had +several escalop shells hanging about him, the noise of which, as they +jingled together, he probably thought musical. + +The noodle-bul or belt in which they carry their hammer and knife is +manufactured from the fur of the opossum spun into a small yarn like +worsted; it is tightly bound at least three or four hundred times round +the stomach; very few however possessed this ornament; and it is not +improbable that the natives who had their hair clubbed, those that wore +belts, and the one who was ornamented with shells, held some particular +offices in the tribe, which it would be difficult for strangers to +discover. + +During our communication with these people the following vocabulary of +their language was obtained, of which some of the words are compared with +those recorded by Captain Flinders: these last are inserted in the third +column. + +COLUMN 1: ENGLISH WORD. +COLUMN 2: NATIVE WORD. +COLUMN 3: NATIVE WORD RECORDED BY CAPTAIN FLINDERS. + +A goose : Caangan. +A dog : Tiara. +To eat biscuit : Yamungamari (doubtful). +A seal : Baallot. +The sun : Djaat : Djaat. +Water : Badoo (this is a Port Jackson word, and has been probably +obtained from other visitors). +Beard : Nyanuck. +Cheek : Nyaluck. +Mouth : Tatah. +Teeth : Orlock : Yeaal. +Tongue : Darlin, or Thalib. +Arm : Wormuck. +Nails : Pera (strong accent on the r.) +Finger : Mai, plural Maih. +Toe : Kea, plural Kean. +Finger nails : Peramaih. +Toe nails : Perakean. +Nipple : Beep : Bpep. +Belly : Cobbull, or kopul : Kobul. +Posteriors : Wallakah : Wallakah. +Kangaroo : Beango. +A frog : Toke. +Spear-throwing-stick : Meara. +Hammer : Kaoit. +Eye : Meal. +Navel : Beil. +Shoulder : Kadyaran. +Shall I go on board? : Bokenyenna. +Elbow : Gnoyong. +Scars on the body : Naamburn. +Firewood : Gogorr. +A spear : Namberr, or pegero. +A knife : Taap. +Rope (on board) : Nearbango. +Wood (Plank) : Yandari. +Lips : Tar : Urluck. +Throat : Wurt. +Thighs : Dtoual : Dtoual. +Knee : Wonat : Wonat. +Leg : Maat : Maat. +Foot : Jaan, or bangul : Jaan. +Ear : Duong : Duong. +Nose : Tarmul : Moil. +Head : Maka : Kaat. +A porpoise : Nordock. +Woman : Paydgero, or coman (doubtful). +Hair of the head : Kaat : Kaat jou. +Come here : Bulloco. +Shoulder : Djadan. +Musket : Puelar (doubtful). +Gum : Perin. +Tomorrow : Manioc (doubtful.) +Surprise or admiration : Caicaicaicaicaigh. The last word lengthened out +with the breath. +A hawk : Barlerot. +A shark, or shark's tail : Margit. +Belt worn round the stomach : Noodlebul. +Back : Goong. +A particular fish : Wallar, or wallat. + +NAMES OF THE NATIVES. + +Yallapool (a little boy). +Ureeton, Wytumba : boys. +Marinbibba. +Coolbun. +Nakinna. +Malka. +Uderra. +Kynoora. +Hanbarrah. +Bawarrang. +Monga. +Flooreena. +Coolyarong. +Mogril (a young man).* + +(*Footnote. The above names were obtained at a subsequent visit on our +return to England the following year.) + +The winds during our stay performed two or three revolutions of the +compass but they partook chiefly of the character of sea and +land-breezes: during the night and early part of the morning the wind was +usually light from the northward and at ten o'clock, gradually dying +away, was succeeded by a wind from the sea, generally from South-West or +South-East; this sea-breeze occasionally blew fresh until four o'clock in +the evening when it would gradually diminish with the setting sun to a +light air. + +The barometrical column ranged between 29.75 and 30.22 inches; a fall of +the mercury preceded a westerly wind, and a rise predicted it from the +South-East: when it stood at thirty inches we had sea-breezes from south +with fine weather. The easterly winds were dry; westerly ones the +reverse. The moisture of the atmosphere, for want of a better hygrometer, +was ascertained with tolerable precision by the state of a small piece of +sea-weed, the weight of which varied according to the dryness or moisture +of the atmosphere between one and three scruples. I found it on all +occasions extremely sensible, and very often to predict a change of wind +much sooner than the barometer. + +Fahrenheit's thermometer ranged between 64 and 74 degrees, but the usual +extremes were between 66 and 70 degrees. + +1822. January 1. + +During the day of the 1st of January the depth of the bar was frequently +sounded but as there was not more than ten feet and a half water upon it +we were necessarily detained at the anchorage. + +January 2. + +On the following morning also at four o'clock the depth was the same; but +at ten o'clock the water rose suddenly eighteen inches, upon which the +anchors were lifted and the brig warped over the bar to an anchorage in +three and a half fathoms off the outer watering-place, to await a +favourable opportunity of going over to Seal Island; near which it was +intended to anchor in order to refit the rigging and otherwise prepare +the vessel for our voyage up the west coast. + +In the afternoon we procured a load of water and permitted the natives, +thirteen of whom were assembled, to pay us another visit. On their coming +on board it was noticed that many of them belonged to the tribe that +lived on the opposite shore, but how they had crossed over was not +satisfactorily ascertained. Their wonder on this their last visit was +much raised by our firing off a nine-pounder loaded with shot, the splash +of which in the water caused the greatest astonishment, and one of them +was extremely vehement and noisy in explaining it to his companions. Upon +repeating this exhibition they paid particular attention to the operation +of loading the gun, and expressed the greatest surprise at the weight of +the ball, upon which, after they had all severally examined it, they held +a long and wordy argument as to what it possibly could be. At the splash +of the ball, for which they were all looking out, they expressed their +delight by shouting in full chorus the words Cai, cai, cai, cai, caigh. +After this they were sent on shore. + +January 3. + +At daybreak the next morning an opportunity offered to cross the sound, +and by eight o'clock the brig was anchored under Seal Island; upon which +we commenced the repair of the rigging, and in the course of the day +shifted the main topmast. We had left the anchorage on the other side of +the sound too early for our friends the natives, who had promised last +evening to bring us a hawk's nest that was built upon a rock near the +watering-place; at ten o'clock a very large fire was perceived close to +the nest; it was no doubt kindled by them, and meant to show that they +were not inattentive to their promise. + +January 4. + +The following day some natives were seen about a mile off upon the beach +but did not come near the vessel. Mr. Cunningham botanised upon the +summit of Bald Head. Of this excursion he gave me the following account: +"Upon reaching the summit of the ridge, and clearing a rocky gully which +intersected our track, we instantly entered an elevated valley of pure +white sand, bounded on either side by ridges forty feet high, that were +in themselves totally bare, excepting on the tops, where a thin clothing +of shrubs was remarked; the whole surface reflected a heat scarcely +supportable, and the air was so stagnant as scarcely to be respired, +although we were at a considerable elevation, and in the vicinity of a +constant current of pure atmospheric air on the ridge. After traversing +the whole length of this sandy vale, which is one-third of a mile in +extent, in our route towards Bald Head, with scarcely a plant to attract +our attention, we perceived at its extremity some remarkably fine +specimens of Candollea cuneiformis, Labil., which had, in spite of the +poverty and looseness of the drifting sand, risen to large spreading +trees, sixteen feet high, of robust growth and habit; they were at this +time covered with flowers and ripe fruit; but so painful was it to the +eyes and senses to remain for a moment stationary in this heated valley, +that whilst I gathered a quantity of the seeds of this truly rich plant, +my servant was obliged to hurry away to a cooler air on the ridge, which +we had again nearly reached; and but for this fine plant, and the no less +conspicuous blue-flowered Scaevola nitida, Br. The whole scene would have +deeply impressed us with all the horrors that such extremes of aridity +are naturally calculated to excite. + +"Upon again reaching the ridge, whose moderated temperature required our +care to avoid suffering from the sudden transition, we came to the +granite, on whose bare surface I found a prostrate specimen of baeckea, +remarkable for the regularity of its decussate leaves, which I have +designated in my list as Baeckea saxicola. Continuing to the extremity of +the ridge, I was much surprised to find we had already attained the +highest point of the range, and to observe another expanse, or extensive +cavity, of bare white sand below us, to the South-East, the termination +of which we afterwards found to be the Bald Head, of Captain Vancouver. +This part is of remarkable appearance from seaward, having on either side +of its bare sandy summit a contrasting brushy vegetation: from the sea +however a very small part only of its extensive surface of sand can be +perceived, the greater part being only observable from the commanding +hillocks we had with much exertion arrived at. A calcareous rock +(affording evidently a very considerable portion of pure lime) was seen +in a decomposing state piercing the sandy surface of all parts of the +ridge about Bald Head which, however, is itself a pure granite; the dense +low brushy wood in its vicinity is chiefly composed of the delicate +baeckea."* + +(*Footnote. Cunningham manuscripts.) + +In the evening we visited Seal Island, and killed five seals for the sake +of their skins, which were serviceable for the rigging; the boat's crew +also found some penguins (Aptenodytes minor) and a nest of iguanas. The +bottle deposited here at our last visit in 1818 was found suspended where +it had been left and brought on board, when another memorandum was +enclosed in it, containing a notification of our present visit, of the +friendly and communicative disposition of the natives, and a copy of the +vocabulary of their language. + +January 5. + +On the 5th in the afternoon on our return to the vessel, after visiting +the shore and landing upon the flat rock, which is merely a bare mass of +granite, of about thirty yards in diameter, some natives were heard +calling to us, and upon our pulling to the part whence the sound came, we +found two men and a boy. After some time they were discovered to be three +of our Oyster-Harbour friends, and therefore we made no hesitation of +communicating with them, and of taking them on board, where they were +regaled upon the flesh of the seals we had killed at the island. + +Notwithstanding the friendly disposition of the inhabitants of this +sound, I felt it necessary to act very cautiously in our communication +with them, in order to avoid any misunderstanding. And that this might +not even be accidentally done, I requested Mr. Cunningham to confine his +walks to the vicinity of the vessel, and particularly to avoid any route +that would take him towards their encampment. He was therefore prevented +from visiting many parts near which he had promised himself much +amusement and information in botanizing, particularly the neighbourhood +of Bayonet Head, and the distant parts of Oyster Harbour. At our former +visit to this place he had searched in vain for that curious little plant +Cephalotus follicularis, Br.,* but on this occasion he was more +fortunate, for he found it in the greatest profusion in the vicinity of +the stream that empties itself over the beach of the outer bay where we +watered. Of this he says: "The plants of cephalotus were all in a very +weak state, and none in any stage of fructification: the ascidia, or +pitchers, which are inserted on strong foot-stalks, and intermixed about +the root with the leaves, all contained a quantity of discoloured water, +and, in some, the drowned bodies of ants and other small insects. Whether +this fluid can be considered a secretion of the plant, as appears really +to be the fact with reference to the nepenthes, or pitcher-plant of +India,** deposited by it through its vessels into the pitchers; or even a +secretion of the ascidia themselves; or whether it is not simply +rainwater lodged in these reservoirs, as a provision from which the plant +might derive support in seasons of protracted drought, when those marshy +lands (in which this vegetable is alone to be found) are partially dried +of the moisture that is indispensable to its existence, may perhaps be +presumed by the following observations. The opercula, shaped like some +species of oyster, or escalop-shells, I found in some pitchers to be very +closely shut upon their orifices, although their cavities, upon +examination, contained but very little water, and the state of the +weather was exceedingly cloudy, and at intervals showery; if, therefore, +the appendages are really cisterns, to receive an elemental fluid for the +nourishment of the plant in times of drought, it is natural to suppose +that this circumstance would operate upon the ramified vessels of the +lids, so as to draw them up, and allow the rain to replenish the +pitchers. Mr. Brown also, who had an opportunity in 1801 of examining +plants fully grown, supposes it probable that the vertical or horizontal +positions in which the opercula were remarked, are determined by the +state of the atmosphere, at the same time that he thinks it possible that +the fluid may be a secretion of the plant. The several dead insects that +were observed within the vases of cephalotus were very possibly deposited +there by an insect of prey, since I detected a slender-bodied fly +(ichneumon) within a closed pitcher, having evidently forced its passage +under the lid to the interior, where an abundant store of putrescent +insects were collected. Whilst, therefore, these pitchers are answering +the double purpose, of being a reservoir to retain a fluid, however +produced, for the nourishment of the plant in the exigency of a dry +season, as also a repository of food for rapacious insects, as in +sarracenia, or the American pitcher-plant; it is also probable that the +air, disengaged by these drowned ants, may be important and beneficial to +the life of the Australian plant, as Sir James E. Smith has suggested, in +respect to the last-mentioned genus, wild in the swamp of Georgia and +Carolina. + +(*Footnote. Flinders volume 1 page 64 and Brown's General Remarks in +Flinders volume 2 page 601 et seq.) + +(**Footnote. Smith's Introduction to Botany page 150.) + +"I spent much time in a fruitless search for flowering specimens of +cephalotus; all the plants were very small and weak, and showed no +disposition to produce flowers at the season, and none had more than +three or four ascidia."* + +(*Footnote. Cunningham manuscripts.) + +The only edible plants that Mr. Cunningham found were a creeping parsley +(Apium prostratum, Labil.) and a species of orach (Atriplex halimus, +Brown) the latter was used by us every day, boiled with salt provisions, +and proved a tolerable substitute for spinach or greens. During our visit +we caught but very few fish, and only a few oysters were obtained, on +account of the banks being seldom uncovered, and the presence of the +natives which prevented my trusting the people out of my sight for fear +of a quarrel. Shellfish of other sorts were obtained at Mistaken Island +in abundance, of which the most common were a patella and an haliotis; +the inhabitant of the former made a coarse, although a savoury dish. +There were also varieties of the following genera: namely, lepas, chiton, +cardium, pinna, nerita, two or three species of ostrea, a small mytilus, +and a small buccinum of great beauty; that covered the rocks and at low +water might be collected in abundance. + + + +CHAPTER 4. +Leave King George the Third's Sound, and commence the survey of the West +Coast at Rottnest Island. +Another remarkable effect of mirage. +Anchor under, and land upon Rottnest Island. +Break an anchor. +Examine the coast to the northward. +Cape Leschenault. +Lancelin Island. +Jurien Bay. +Houtman's Abrolhos. +Moresby's Flat-topped Range. +Red Point. +Anchor in Dirk Hartog's Road, at the entrance of Shark's Bay. +Occurrences there. +Examination of the coast to the North-west Cape. +Barrow Island. +Heavy gale off the Montebello Isles. +Rowley's Shoals. +Cape Leveque. +Dangerous situation of the brig among the islands of Buccaneer's +Archipelago. +Examination and description of Cygnet Bay. +Lose an anchor, and leave the coast. +Adele Island. +Return to Port Jackson. + +1822. January 6. + +We sailed from King George's Sound on the 6th. + +January 8. + +But from south-westerly winds, were no further advanced by the 8th than +the meridian of Cape Chatham. After which, entering a current setting at +one mile an hour to the westward, the brig made considerable progress. + +January 10. + +At daylight, 10th, Cape Leeuwin came in sight from the masthead, and at +eight o'clock was seen from the deck at the distance of ten leagues, +bearing North 42 degrees East by compass. + +At this, the south-westernmost extremity of New Holland, Captain Flinders +commenced his examination of the south coast, but saw no part to the +northward. The French expedition under Captain Baudin were upon this part +at two different periods of their voyage, and it appears from an +examination of their tracks that the coast between Capes Leeuwin and +Peron, the latter of which is about five leagues to the southward of the +entrance of Swan River, has been sufficiently examined by them. They +landed in several parts of Geographe Bay which affords a shelter from +southerly winds but is so exposed to those between North and +West-North-West that the French ships ran great danger of being +shipwrecked during a gale from that quarter. + +The coast is sandy, and from M. Peron's description, barren and +unprofitable. With the exception of the Recif du Naturaliste which lies +about five leagues to the north of the Cape of that name there seems to +be no danger in the vicinity of the bay. The small inlet of Port +Leschenault is only the embouchure of a salt-marsh; it is scarcely +attainable even by boats; for there appears to be only three feet water +on the bar, and over and within it not more than fifteen feet. The French +found no fresh water in any part of Geographe Bay. From Port Leschenault +to Cape Peron the coast is low and sandy but inland it is of a moderate +height and appears to be furnished with a slight vegetation. The French +ships sailed along this coast at the distance of four or five miles from +the beach, and the report made by them is sufficiently in detail for all +the purposes of navigation. + +Upon these considerations it was not deemed necessary that we should +examine this part again, and therefore sailed at a distance from the land +to ensure a quicker passage to Cape Peron, in order to explore the bay +behind the Isles of Louis Napoleon. Swan River and Rottnest Island had +been already carefully examined by the French; but from the latter island +to the North-west Cape, with the exception of Shark's Bay, they saw very +little of the coast, and have given its outline principally from Van +Keulen.* + +(*Footnote. Freycinet page 441.) + +At noon on the 10th our latitude was 34 degrees 16 minutes 14 seconds, +and a large bare, sandy patch upon the land, the Tache Blanche +remarquable of Captain Baudin, bore North 77 degrees East (magnetic). At +six o'clock in the evening we passed Cape Naturaliste, having experienced +a strong current setting North 11 degrees West, at nearly two miles per +hour; hence we steered to the northward, but it was dark when we passed +near the position assigned to the Recif Naturaliste: after steering on +for three hours longer we edged in for the land and at ten o'clock hauled +to the wind for the night. + +January 11. + +The next day at noon we were in latitude 32 degrees 36 minutes 2 seconds, +having the land about Cape Peron in sight from the masthead, bearing East +by South 1/2 South; but during the day the wind was so light that we had +not approached it within four leagues by sunset. + +At this time the coast was visible as far as Cape Bouvard between which +and Cape Peron it is low and sandy, but the hills appeared to be +tolerably well wooded, and of a moderate height. Buache Island was +visible as well as the small rocky islet between it and Cape Peron. The +former is low and sandy, and its outline of hummocky shape; and to the +eastward was some distant land trending towards the assigned entrance of +Swan River. To the northward of Buache Island a small lump was seen on +the horizon, which perhaps might have been Berthollet Island, but it was +very indistinct. The sun set in a dense bank and the moment it +disappeared a very copious dew began to fall. + +January 12. + +The next morning at daylight the land to the southward of Cape Peron was +ten miles off, but at half-past nine o'clock we were between Capes Peron +and Bouvard, and about five miles from the shore, which from the former +extended in a North-East by North direction, still low and sandy. + +At noon the latitude was observed to be 32 degrees 30 minutes 42 seconds, +but by the land it was only 32 degrees 23 minutes 30 seconds, a +difference of 7 minutes 12 seconds. This error was occasioned by the haze +which concealed the true horizon, and caused an appearance of land all +round us, on which rocks, sandy beaches, and trees were so plainly formed +that the officer of the watch actually reported two islands on the +western horizon. This was the most remarkable instance of mirage that we +ever witnessed; the haze had only commenced a few minutes before noon, +whilst the observation for the latitude was in the act of being taken; +and immediately after I was employed upon the chart for half an hour, +puzzling myself in attempting to reconcile the observed latitude with the +bearings of the land. This curious phenomenon was also witnessed by the +French in Geographe Bay. During the time this magical appearance +continued, we had very light airs from the southward: the barometrical +column fell to 29.76 inches, but the hygrometer indicated an +extraordinary dryness of the air. At sunset the haze cleared away, when +Rottnest Island was seen, bearing between North 10 degrees and 32 degrees +East (magnetic); a breeze then freshened from West-South-West but +gradually veered round to the southward; and at nine o'clock was very +light from South-East. + +January 13. + +During the night we made short tacks. At four o'clock in the morning +(13th) the latitude by the moon's meridional altitude was 32 degrees 16 +minutes 17 seconds, and soon afterwards Rottnest was in sight in the +North-North-East. At six o'clock the sky was clouded, and the weather +threatened to be bad; the mercury fell to 29.69 inches, upon which all +sail was made off the land, as appearances indicated a westerly gale: but +after an interval of two hours, during which we had a fresh breeze from +North-West by West, the weather cleared up and we steered towards +Rottnest Island. + +January 14. + +The next morning the brig was anchored off the north-east end of the +island in thirteen fathoms gravelly sand; and in the afternoon I went on +shore in a bay on the east or leeward side, where we found the water +smooth and the landing more practicable than upon the north side where a +tremendous surf was rolling in upon the beach. We disturbed a great many +seals but only killed three; and were much disappointed in finding that +these animals were not of the fur species, as in M. de Freycinet's +account of the island they are said to be; they were evidently the same +description as those noticed at King George's Sound. The traces of a +small kangaroo were everywhere abundant but the animals were not seen. We +walked to the easternmost of the lakes which the French named Etangs +Duvaildaily and which M. de Freycinet remarks as being surrounded by an +extensive beach, composed entirely of bivalve shells, a species of +cardium: the quantity was indeed extraordinary. The banks were frequented +by gulls and sandpipers, of which many were shot. The water was found to +be perfectly salt and from the circumstance of its rising and falling +with the tide it must have some communication with the sea. The rocks of +the island are principally calcareous and in a very advanced state of +decomposition. The beaches were covered with dead shells of the genera +buccinum, bulla, murex, trochus, and haliotis; but we found none with the +living animal in them. Of the feathered tribe a hawk and a pigeon were +the only land-birds seen; but boobies, terns, and sandpipers were very +numerous about the shores. Mr. Cunningham was fully employed during the +short time that we were on shore, and excepting the pleasing interest +created in our minds by landing on an island which has been so seldom +before seen, and which from Vlaming's account bears a prominent place in +the history of this part of the coast, he was the only one of the party +that derived any advantage from our visit. Of the productions of this +island he makes the following brief remarks: "It is surprising that an +island, situated at so short a distance from the south-west coast, should +bear so small a feature of the characteristic vegetation of King George's +Sound as not to furnish a plant of its several genera of Proteaceae or +Mimoseae, and but a solitary plant of Leguminosae. It would therefore +seem that these families are confined to the shores of the main, +particularly about King George's Sound, where we have just left them in +the greatest luxuriance and profusion. Among the botanical productions of +this island there is no plant of so striking a feature as the callitris, +a tree of about twenty-five feet high, with a short stem of three feet in +diameter; it much resembles the Pinus cedrus, or cedar of Lebanon, in its +robust horizontal growth; it is found abundantly over the island, and +within a few yards of the sea-beach. The island is formed by a succession +of small hills and intervening valleys; and although the soil is very +poor, being principally a mixture of quartzose sand and a large +proportion of marine exuviae, yet this tree grows to a considerable size, +but covering the surface of the island, gives it a monotonous appearance +which is however occasionally relieved by a spreading undescribed species +of melaleuca (allied to Melaleuca armillaris, Smith) and the more elegant +pittosporum, an arborescent species, also undescribed. In fact, these +three trees constitute the timber of the island. The ground is in some +parts profusely clothed with Spinifex hirsutus, Labil., in which I +detected a new species of xerotes, a round bushy plant growing in large +bodies. + +"No fresh water has ever been discovered upon this island: indeed the +loose filtering nature of the soil is not tenacious enough to retain that +element at the surface. The woods are abundantly stocked with a small +species of kangaroo of which we saw only the traces; nor did we see the +animal, on account of whose numbers and resemblance to a rat the island +received its name from Vlaming in 1619. M. Peron says that it forms a new +genus, and of a very remarkable character.* Rottnest Island does not +appear ever to have been inhabited or even visited by the natives from +the main; probably on account of the stormy nature of the weather, and +the prevalence of westerly winds, which would be quite sufficient to +deter them from venturing to sea in such fragile vessels as they +possess."** + +(*Footnote. Peron volume 1 page 189.) + +(**Footnote. Cunningham manuscripts.) + +January 15. + +On our return to the brig, we passed over a clear sandy bottom that would +have afforded better anchorage than where we had brought up; for the +vessel was not only exposed to a considerable swell but the ground was so +foul that in weighing the anchor the following morning one of the flukes +hooked a rock and broke off, besides which the cable was much rubbed. + +As Swan River had been very minutely examined in Baudin's voyage by MM. +Heirisson and Baily, the former an enseigne de vaisseau, the latter a +mineralogist, an account of which is fully detailed in De Freycinet's and +Peron's respective accounts of that voyage,* without their finding +anything of sufficient importance to induce me to risk leaving the brig +at anchor off Rottnest Island for so long a time as it would necessarily +take to add to the knowledge of it that we already possess, I did not +think it advisable to delay for such a purpose, and therefore as soon as +we were underweigh steered for the mainland and continued to run +northerly along the shore at the distance of six miles from it. At noon +our latitude was 31 degrees 37 minutes 32 seconds. The coast is formed by +sandy hillocks, or dunes, of from one hundred to one hundred and fifty +feet high, here and there sprinkled with shrubs, but in many parts quite +bare: behind this frontier a second range of hills was occasionally seen +on which the trees appeared to be of moderate size: the shore is rocky +for two miles off and in many parts the sea broke. At half-past three +o'clock we were abreast of a low, sandy projection, supposed to be +Captain Baudin's Cape Leschenault. The appearance of the coast to the +northward on this cape differed from what we passed in the morning, in +that the coast hillocks are more bare of vegetation; there appeared to be +several ridges behind the coast dunes, but they were all equally +unproductive of vegetation. Lancelin Island was not distinctly made out +but the two small rocky lumps on the bare sandhills that M. De Freycinet +mentions, were seen and thought to be very remarkable. At seven o'clock, +having reached in my plan the latitude 31 degrees 0 minutes 30 seconds, +and longitude 115 degrees 0 minutes 0 seconds, we hauled off shore for +the night. + +January 16. + +And at six o'clock a.m. stood towards the land again. At half-past ten +o'clock we were so near to it as to see the beach: at noon the latitude +was observed to be 30 degrees 52 minutes 13 seconds, its longitude being +114 degrees 56 minutes 45 seconds, at which time we were on the parallel +of the two rocky lumps seen the last evening. Hence we steered north on a +parallel direction with the coast and ran forty-five miles, passing the +different projections of the beach at the distance of four or five miles, +and sounding in between nineteen and twenty-five fathoms. At four o'clock +we were abreast of a bare sandy point which appeared to be the north head +of Jurien Bay, in which two rocky islets were seen, fronted by reefs, on +which the sea in many parts was breaking violently. To the southward of +the point the coast hills are rather high and principally formed of very +white sand, bearing a strong resemblance, from the absence of vegetables, +to hills covered with snow. Here and there however a few shrubs partially +concealed the sand, and gave a variety to the scene which was dismally +triste. The country to the northward bears a different character; the +shore is very low and sandy and continues so for some distance in the +interior towards the base of a range of tolerably-elevated hills, on +which the French have placed three remarkable pitons, but these, perhaps +from our being too close in shore, we did not discover. + +(*Footnote. See De Freycinet page 175 et seq and Peron volume 1 page 178 +et seq.) + +This range extends in a North by West and South by East direction, and +appears to be rocky. In the middle ground some trees were noticed and +vegetation appeared to be more abundant than in the space between the +bare sandy point and Cape Leschenault. In Jurien Bay towards its south +part near the shore is a small hillock, on which some trees of a moderate +size were seen; they are thus noticed because the existence of trees +hereabout is so rare as to be deserving of record. No native fires were +seen between this part and Rottnest Island, nor was there any other +indication of the coast being inhabited; it is however likely to be as +populous as any other part, for the hills in the interior, which we +occasionally got a glimpse of, seemed to be wooded, and would therefore +furnish subsistence to natives from hunting, even if the seashore failed +in supplying them with fish. Between the bare sandy point and Island +Point there is a deep bay, the shores of which are fronted by a reef +partly dry, extending from the shore two miles. + +At seven o'clock we were about a mile and a half from a reef that nearly +crossed our course; and as it was time to haul off for the night we +shortened sail and brought to the wind, then blowing a strong squally +breeze from south; but notwithstanding this succession of bad weather, +the mercury in the barometer had ranged steadily between 29.90 and 29.92 +inches. + +January 17. + +At daybreak we steered in for the land but ran twenty-two miles before it +was seen. At nine o'clock it bore between North-East and South-East, and +at a quarter after nine heavy breakers were seen in the South-East at the +distance of five miles. The weather was now fine and the wind +South-South-East, but still blew strong; the horizon was so enveloped by +haze that the land, although not more than seven miles from our track, +was very indistinctly seen: it seemed to be formed of sandhills, from one +hundred to one hundred and fifty feet high, slightly studded with a +scrubby vegetation; in the interior we perceived a range of hills of +tabular form which are probably very high. At ten o'clock we passed +another patch of breakers at the distance of about a mile and a half; but +these appeared to have no connexion with those seen at nine o'clock. Our +soundings were between fifteen and seventeen fathoms, and our distance +from the beach from six to seven miles. At noon the wind veered back to +South-South-West and blew hard: we were at this time in 29 degrees 5 +minutes 1 second South and by chronometers in 114 degrees 40 minutes 30 +seconds East; by which we found that a current had set us during the last +twenty-four hours to the North-North-West at one mile per hour. At +half-past twelve o'clock more breakers were seen bearing North-West 1/2 +North, when we hauled off West-North-West in order to ascertain the +distance between the land and the Abrolhos bank which, in Van Keulen's +chart, is placed abreast of this part of the coast. + +At half-past four o'clock the masthead man was cautioned to look out for +breakers and in less than half an hour afterwards he reported some +bearing North-West by North. On going to the masthead I saw them +distinctly for they were not more than four miles off, and on looking +round the horizon towards the westward, distinctly saw the island of +Frederick Houtman's Abrolhos, which for some time the masthead man +persisted was only the shadow of the clouds; but a small hummock being +soon afterwards descried upon the summit of the largest, confirmed my +conjectures. The group appeared to consist of three islands, all low and +of small size. Beyond and around them the sea was smooth and to the +southward another patch of breakers was observed. Preparations were now +made to tack off, but I had scarcely reached the deck when the lookout +man reported rocks under our lee bow, upon which the helm was immediately +put up; and when the vessel's head was round upon the opposite tack the +following bearings were taken: + +Island of the Abrolhos: eight miles off, between West and South 75 +degrees West. + +Breakers: four miles off, North-North-West North. + +Another patch: seven miles off, South-West. + +And the small rock patch, half a mile off, West. + +This last I did not see myself but two men perceived it distinctly from +the masthead, and it is from their accounts that I am induced to give it +a place upon the chart. The position of the vessel when we saw the +breakers was in latitude 28 degrees 53 minutes and in longitude 114 +degrees 2 minutes, and from the short interval between our obtaining +sights for the chronometer and the meridional observation at noon, the +position may be considered to be tolerably correct. After taking the +bearings and before sail was made we sounded in twenty-five fathoms, fine +shelly sand; but as we stood to the eastward the water gradually deepened +to twenty-nine and thirty fathoms. + +January 18. + +The next morning at daylight the land was out of sight but at five +o'clock was distinguished, forming a range of flat-topped land, probably +about one thousand feet high. At the northern end of the range were four +or five hills standing apart from each other, of which, in the view we +then had of them, the northernmost was flat-topped, and the others +peaked; at the south end of the range were three other distinct hills, +the centre being peaked and the other two flat-topped. Near the centre of +the main range was another summit that was remarkable for its form. + +This range was seen by Captain Hamelin of the Naturaliste, and is thus +noticed by M. De Freycinet in his account of the voyage. "Entre les +paralleles de 29 degres et 28 degres 20 minutes, la terre est tres haute; +on y remarque deux montagnes bien reconnoisables par leur forme qui +approche de celle de la Grange, sur la cote de Saint-Domingue, ou de la +Montagne de la Table au Cap de Bonne-Esperance; une autre ressemble un +peu au Pouce, de l'Ile-de-France. La terre est aride, bordee de falaises +rougeatres; on y voit peu de sable comparativement aux terres plus au +sud."* + +(*Footnote. De Freycinet page 181.) + +We sought in vain for the resemblance to the Pouce, but as all the hills +were flat-topped of course they were similar to the Table Land of the +Cape of Good Hope, but probably inferior to it in point of height. + +This range I called after Captain Moresby, R.N. C.B., in grateful +recognition of the prompt assistance rendered by him to the wants and +repairs of our vessel, during her late visit to Mauritius. The summit in +the centre was called Mount Fairfax; the group of hills at the north end +were named Menai Hills, and the three at the south end of the range were +distinguished by the name of Wizard Hills; Mount Fairfax is in latitude +28 degrees 45 minutes 20 seconds, longitude 114 degrees 38 minutes 45 +seconds. The shore in front of these hills is sandy and there was an +appearance of two openings in the beach that were probably the outlets of +mountain-streams. The country also appeared much better wooded than in +other parts, and as large smokes were seen in the valleys the place most +likely at the time of our passing frequented by natives. + +Hence the coast trends to the North-West by North towards a patch of bare +sand, which is remarkable because the coast is not so sandy as it is more +to the south. At ten o'clock a very thick haze spread over the land and +so enveloped it that nothing could be distinguished. At noon, the brig +being in 28 degrees 25 minutes 42 seconds South, and 114 degrees 7 +minutes 0 seconds East, the haze partially cleared away and showed that +the coast had changed its character, being now steep, and in some parts +cliffy, but still occasionally studded with spots of bare sand. In the +interior a rocky, flat-topped hill was seen; it is probably the Mount +Naturaliste of the French. The coast trends here in a North by West +direction. + +The passage or channel between the Abrolhos Bank and the coast has been +distinguished by the name of Vlaming's ship, The Geelvink, since she was +the first vessel that passed them (Anno 1697). Captain Hamelin in the +Naturaliste also passed within them, imagining that he perceived them to +the eastward, but what he saw must have been the summit of Moresby's +Flat-topped Range.* + +(*Footnote. So M. De Freycinet also thinks, for he says: "quelques +personnes n'osent assurer que nous ayons vu les Abrolhos; d'autres, et je +suis de ce nombre, peusent que ce que nous avons pris pour ce groupe +d'iles est une portion du Continent." Freycinet page 180.) + +The soundings of the coast upon our track between Rottnest Island and the +Abrolhos have been gradually of a gravelly nature, mixed sometimes with +shelly sand, and were generally coarser as we approached the shore. In +some parts, particularly near Cape Naturaliste and Rottnest Island, the +bottom appeared to be a bed of small water-worn quartzose pebbles not +larger than a pin's head. Off Moresby's Flat-topped Range the bottom is +of a soft dark-gray-coloured sand of a very fine quality that would +afford good anchorage was it not for the constant swell that pervades +this stormy coast; the water was however much smoother than in other +parts, which might have been occasioned either by the Abrolhos bank's +breaking the sea, or from the temporary cessation of the wind, for it was +comparatively light to what it had been since our leaving Rottnest +Island. + +A large patch of bare sand terminates the sandy shores of this coast in +latitude 27 degrees 55 minutes. A steep cliff then commences and extends +for eight miles to the Red Point of Vlaming; behind which is a bight, +called by the French Gantheaume Bay; in the south part of which there +appeared a small opening. This bay did not seem to be so well calculated +for taking shelter in from southerly gales, as Van Keulen's chart +indicates; since it is exposed to winds from South-West by South, from +which quarter it must frequently blow. The country appeared very rocky; +the slight vegetation covering its surface gave it a greenish hue, but no +trees were seen near the shore which is fronted by a sandy beach; the +depth of the bight is probably five or six miles. The cliffs of Red Point +partake of a reddish tinge and appear to be disposed nearly in horizontal +strata. In the centre and about halfway between the base and summit of +the cliffs is a remarkable block of stone, of very white colour, that at +a distance appeared to be either a fort or house: some black marks on its +face took our attention and resembled characters of a very large size, as +if they had been painted for the purpose of attracting the attention of +vessels passing by; but a closer examination with the telescope prove +them to be only the shadows of the projecting parts of the surface. + +At half-past seven o'clock we hauled off for the night and, standing off +and on, sounded in between thirty-three and thirty-five fathoms. + +January 19. + +At daylight the next morning the land bore from East to East-South-East +but the morning and forenoon were so hazy that it was very indistinctly +seen; at noon a partial clearing away of the haze exposed to our view a +long range of high and precipitous cliffs, the base of which was washed +by the sea, breaking upon it with a tremendous roar, and heard distinctly +by us. The wind falling in the afternoon induced me to stand off shore, +when we soon lost sight of the land. At noon we were in latitude 27 +degrees 5 minutes 18 seconds. At one o'clock the depth was forty-five +fathoms fine gray sand. No land was seen during the rest of the day; for +although the sky was beautifully clear and serene, the atmosphere for +fifteen degrees above the horizon was enveloped in a thick hazy mist that +caused an extraordinary dampness in the air, and from the unfavourable +state of the weather we did not attempt to make it again. + +January 20. + +The next morning we saw that part of Dirk Hartog's Island which lies in +25 degrees 56 minutes, and when we had reached within four miles of the +shore steered to the northward parallel to the beach, but the haze was +still so great as to render the land very indistinct. We saw enough of it +however to be convinced of its perfect sterility. The coast is lined with +a barrier of rocks on which the sea was breaking high with a roar that +was heard on board although our distance from the shore was at least +three miles. + +The warmth of the weather now began rapidly to increase; the thermometer +at noon ranged as high as 79 degrees. + +At one o'clock Cape Inscription, the north-westernmost point of Dirk +Hartog's Island, was distinguished and the sea-breeze veered as far as +South-West by West, which was two points more westerly than we had +hitherto had it. At two o'clock the brig passed round the cape and, as +there was an appearance of good shelter in the bay to the eastward of it, +we hauled in and at half-past three o'clock anchored in twelve fathoms +fine gravelly soft sand; the west point of Dirk Hartog's Island (Cape +Inscription) bearing North 82 degrees West, and the low sandy point that +forms its north-east end South 53 degrees West, at a mile and a half from +the shore. + +As we hauled round the cape and were passing under the lee of the land +the breeze became so suddenly heated, by its blowing over the arid and +parched surface of the coast, that my seaweed hygrometer, which had been +quite damp since we left Rottnest Island, was in ten minutes so dried as +to be covered with crystals of salt; and in this state it continued +during our stay. + +Upon rounding the cape two posts were descried upon its summit, which we +conjectured to be those on which the French had affixed a record of their +visit, as well as the more ancient one of the Dutch navigators, Dirk +Hartog and Vlaming; for they were very conspicuously placed and appeared +to be in good preservation. + +We had not anchored five minutes before the vessel was surrounded by +sharks, which at once impressed us with the propriety of Dampier's +nomenclature. One that was caught measured eleven feet in length but the +greater number were not more than three or four feet long. They were very +voracious and scared away large quantities of fish, of which, however, +our people during the evening caught a good supply. + +January 21. + +The following morning we landed at the Cape and with eager steps ascended +the rocky face of the hill to examine the interesting memorials that were +affixed to the post; but found to our great mortification that they had +been removed; the only vestige that remained was the nails by which they +had been secured. One of the posts was about two feet high and evidently +made of the wood of the callitris, that grows upon Rottnest Island; it +appeared to have been broken down; the other was still erect and seemed +to have been either the heel of a ship's royal-mast or part of a +studding-sail boom; upon one side of it a flag had been fastened by +nails. A careful search was made all round but, as no signs of the Dutch +plate or of the more recent French inscription were seen, it was +conjectured that they had been removed by the natives; but since our +return to England I have learnt that they are preserved in the Museum of +the Institute at Paris, where they had been deposited by M. De Freycinet +upon his return from his late voyage round the world. After this +disappointment we returned to the sea-beach, whilst Mr. Cunningham +botanised along the summit of the ridge; and before he rejoined us we had +been fortunate enough to find two very fine turtles, and a large quantity +of turtle-eggs. The animals had been left by the tide in holes of the +rocks, from which we had some difficulty in extricating them. During our +absence from the vessel our people had been very successful with the hook +and line, having caught about five or six dozen snappers, besides some of +the genus tetradon. + +This seasonable supply and the probability of our procuring more turtles +from the beach induced me to remain here a few days to perform some +trifling repairs that could not be effected at sea. We were also +prevented from moving, from the unfavourable state of the weather; for it +was blowing a gale of wind all the time we remained; but as our people +were living upon fresh food the time was not considered as lost. + +January 22. + +The next morning fifty turtles were turned, but as we could not convey +them all on board forty were left on shore upon their backs for the +night: upon landing the next morning they were all found dead, having +killed themselves by their exertions to escape, and from their exposure +to the heat of the sun which was so great during the day that I did not +send any of the people on shore. We found, however, no difficulty in +procuring more, some of which weighed four hundredweight. + +The shore of this bay is fronted by a rocky reef covered with shell-fish, +of which the principal sorts were species of trochus, chama, conus, +voluta, cypraea, buccinum, ostrea, mytilus, and patella; among the latter +was the large one of King George's Sound. Upon the beaches to windward of +the cape we found varieties of sponge and coral; and beche de mer were +observed in the crevices of the rocks but were neither large nor +plentiful. Mr. Cunningham saw two land snakes, one of which was about +four feet in length; the colour of its back was black and the belly +yellow; the only quadruped seen was a small opossum. A seal of the hair +species, like those of Rottnest Island, was seen on the rocks, probably +of the same description that Dampier found in the maw of the shark;* and +also what was found by the French on Faure Island, which M. Peron +supposed to be an herbivorous animal and described as a dugong.** + +(*Footnote. Dampier volume 3 page 87.) + +(**Footnote. Peron volume 2 page 227 et seq and De Freycinet page 201.) + +January 24. + +On the 24th Mr. Roe visited the Cape to fix on the post a memorial of our +visit; an inscription was carved upon a small piece of wood in the back +of which was deposited another memorandum written upon vellum; the wood +was of the size of the sheave-hole of the larger post, into which it was +fixed, and near it Mr. Roe piled up a heap of stones. After this was +accomplished the party walked for some distance along the beach to the +south-west of the cape, where they found the remains of two or three +whales that had been lately wrecked; a small piece of putrefied flesh was +also seen, about two or three feet long, one side of which was covered +with red hair, it was however too far gone to ascertain to what animal it +belonged. + +On examining into the state of our dry provisions it was mortifying to +find that the rats and cockroaches had destroyed an incredible quantity, +particularly of our biscuit and flour. In one of the casks of the latter +more than two-thirds of its contents was deficient. The biscuit was +completely drilled through and the greater part would not have been +thought fit to eat if we had possessed any of a better quality; I still +however hoped to have a sufficiency on board to complete the survey of +the north-west coast before our return to Port Jackson, which I now found +would of necessity be at least four or five weeks before the time I had +fixed upon when we left the Mauritius. As it would take up a great +portion of the time we had now left to make a more extensive examination +of Shark's Bay than what the French have already performed, and would +entirely prevent my going upon the north-west coast again; it was +determined that we should not delay here, but pass on and resume our +examination of the coast at Cape Cuvier, the northern head of the bay. +The only part of Shark's Bay that seems to be at all interesting, and to +require further examination, is the eastern side of the bay immediately +opposite to the Islands of Dorre and Bernier; but from the very intricate +and shoal nature of its approach it is very doubtful whether even a sight +of the land in that direction could be procured. + +The rocks of Dirk Hartog's Island are of a very remarkable formation, +consisting of a congeries of quartzose sand, united in small circular +kernels by a calcareous cement in which some shells were found embedded. +The geological character of this rock is more fully treated upon in the +Appendix by my friend Dr. Fitton. + +"Upon the summit of the cliffs there are a few low shrubs, at this time +much parched up, but among them Mr. Cunningham found a tolerably rich +harvest. In his collection were the following plants, which were +originally brought to Europe by Dampier; namely, Trichinium incanum, Br.; +Diplolaena dampieri, Desf.; solanum, a thorny ferruginous species without +fructification (Solanum dampieri ?) Dampiera incana, Br.; and a cordate +melaleuca, figured by Dampier*: a beautiful loranthus (teretifolius, +Cunningham) grew on the branches of an undescribed acacia (Acacia +ligulata, Cunningham manuscript):"..."many were the wrecks of most +interesting plants, and especially those of soft herbaceous duration, +which had some time since fallen a sacrifice to the apparent +long-protracted drought of the season; but it was impossible, amidst the +sad languor of vegetation, not to admire the luxuriant and healthy habit +of an undescribed species of pittosporum (oleifolium, Cunningham +manuscript) which formed a small robust tree, ten feet high, laden with +ripe fruit. We could perceive no traces either of remains of fires, or +otherwise of natives, in the whole length of our walk along the edge of +the cliffs or the plains, but we saw two snakes of very distinct kinds, +each exceeding five feet in length; the one black with a yellow belly, +the other green and black, but they quickly escaped into holes, leaving a +serpentine impression of their bodies upon the sand. These marks were +seen and remarked near the edge of all the holes, which were very +numerous upon the surface of the island, before I discovered that they +were the tracks of reptiles, from which it may be inferred that these +animals are very abundant. The only bird seen was a solitary species of +loxia, but upon a steep ledge of rocks I observed one of those nests of +which frequent mention has been already made: I examined and found it +built upon the pinnacle of some large rocks, very strongly constructed of +long sticks; it was about five feet high and exceeded four feet in +diameter, with a very slight cavity above; and seemed to have been very +recently inhabited. The rocks that formed its base were ornamented with a +prostrate capparis, or calyptranthus (Calyptranthus orbicularis, +Cunningham manuscript) which afforded me good flowering specimens. In my +walk I started a small black kangaroo: it was feeding upon the seeds of a +small acacia and, upon perceiving my approach, fled across the down +without reaching a single bush or rock large enough to conceal itself as +far as the eye could discern it, so bare and destitute of vegetation are +these arid, sandy plains."* The heat of the weather was so great as not +to allow of any communication with the shore, excepting between daybreak +and eight o'clock. Mr. Cunningham's visits were therefore necessarily +much confined: this precaution I found it absolutely requisite to take to +prevent the people from being exposed to the very great heat of the sun, +which on shore must have been at least twenty degrees more powerful than +on board, where the thermometer ranged between 71 1/2 degrees at +midnight, and 85 and 87 degrees at noon. The barometer ranged between +29.76 and 29.99 inches, and stood highest when the wind was to the +eastward of south, with which winds the horizon was much clearer, and the +air consequently drier than when the wind blew from the sea. + +(*Footnote. Cunningham manuscript.) + +As an anchorage during the summer months Dirk Hartog's Road has +everything to recommend it, excepting the total absence of fresh water +which, according to the French, was not found in any part of Shark's Bay; +the anchorage is secure and the bottom clear of rocks. There is also an +abundance of fish and turtle, and of the latter a ship might embark forty +or fifty every day, for they are very sluggish and make no effort to +escape, perhaps from knowing the impossibility of their scrambling over +the rocky barrier that fronts the shore, and dries at half ebb. Of fish +we caught only two kinds; the snapper, a species of sparus, called by the +French the rouge bossu, and a tetradon which our people could not be +persuaded to eat, although the French lived chiefly upon it. There are +some species of this genus that are poisonous but many are of delicious +flavour: it is described by M. Lacepede in a paper in the Annal. du +Museum d'Histoire Naturelle (tome 4 page 203) as le Tetrodon argente +(Tetrodon argenteus). + +January 26. + +On the 26th we sailed and passed outside of Dorre and Bernier's Islands; +nothing was seen of the reef that lies in mid-channel on the south side +of Dorre Island: a rippling was noticed by Mr. Roe in an East by South +direction from the masthead at twenty minutes before one o'clock but, if +the position assigned to it by the French is correct, we had passed it +long before that time. At six o'clock Kok's Island, the small rocky islet +that lies off the north end of Bernier's Island, bore North 83 degrees +East, distant seven miles. + +January 27. + +The following morning at daylight the land was seen in the North-East and +at half-past eight o'clock we resumed our course and passed Cape Cuvier, +a reddish-coloured rocky bluff that presents a precipitous face to the +sea. The coast thence takes a North by East direction; it is low and +sandy and fronted by a sandy beach, occasionally interrupted by +projecting rocky points; those parts where patches of bare sand were +noticed are marked upon the chart. + +At one o'clock we were near a low sandy projection round which the coast +extends to the East-North-East and forms a shallow bay. This projection +was called after Sir Robert Townsend Farquhar, Bart., the late Governor +of the Mauritius. + +Farther on, in latitude 23 degrees 10 minutes 30 seconds, is a projection +which, at Mr. Cunningham's request, was called after Mr. William Anderson +of the apothecaries' garden at Chelsea. The coast to the northward of +Point Anderson is higher than to the southward and falls back to the +North-East, but was very imperfectly seen on account of the thick haze +that enveloped it. At a quarter before seven o'clock we hauled to the +wind for the night with a fresh gale from the southward. + +January 28. + +The next morning was cloudy and the horizon tolerably clear; but towards +noon a light haze began to spread, which by sunset was so thick as +entirely to conceal the land. The mercury fell as low as 29.76 inches +and, although the thermometer was at 79 degrees and the sun powerful, yet +the atmosphere was so charged with moisture that the decks and everything +out of the immediate influence of the sun were quite damp. This +extraordinary and constant humidity appeared only to occupy the +atmosphere for the sky was always beautifully clear and serene. + +During the night the gale blew strong from the southward with a high +topping sea from the South-West; and being occupied in shifting the main +topsail which had split during the night, we stood off until three +o'clock before we tacked towards the shore. + +January 29. + +At eight o'clock being in latitude 22 degrees 19 minutes 23 seconds, the +land was visible from North-East to South 35 degrees East at the distance +of five or six leagues: by its outline which, from the glare of the sun +was the only part at all discernible, it seemed to be of moderate height, +very level, and offering no particular mark that could be set with any +chance of recognition to obtain a cross bearing. As there is every reason +to believe that this part of the coast is what was taken by former +navigators for Cloates Island,* I have named the southernmost point of +the high land Point Cloates. + +(*Footnote. See volume 1.) + +At noon we were in latitude 21 degrees 57 minutes 5 seconds, having +experienced a current of twenty-three miles to the north since yesterday +at noon. The northern extreme, Vlaming's Head, bore North-East by East +1/2 East and the south extreme South 7 degrees West; and in the bearing +of between South 32 degrees to 82 degrees East the land is higher than in +other parts and declines very gradually towards the extreme. + +As the brig approached the land breakers were seen to extend the whole +length of the shore, which is fronted by a sandy beach: the land is of +moderate height but the summit is rather more rugged than that to the +southward where the outline is perfectly level. At half-past three +o'clock Vlaming Head bore south six miles and three quarters off: at four +o'clock the latitude, by the moon's meridional altitude, was found to be +21 degrees 38 minutes 27 seconds, at which time sights were taken for the +chronometer, which made the longitude of the head 114 degrees 2 minutes +16 seconds: the situation assigned to it on our first voyage was 114 +degrees 1 minute 47 seconds; the mean of the two, 114 degrees 2 minutes 2 +seconds, may therefore be considered its true situation. + +From the above observation for the latitude of the North-West Cape +agreeing nearly with those of our former voyage, I was induced to think +that there might be some land more to the northward that the French saw +and took for the cape; for they have placed it in 21 degrees 37 minutes 7 +seconds South, which is nearly 10 minutes too northerly. Captain +Horsburgh, in the supplement to his Directory, notices some islands seen +by the San Antonio in 1818, called Piddington's Islands, that are said to +lie in the latitude of 21 degrees 36 minutes, but after steering +seventeen miles to the North-East from the above situation, without +seeing anything like land, there remained no doubt in my mind that the +French must have been deceived and that Piddington's Islands are some of +the low, sandy islets to the eastward of Muiron Island. + +January 30. + +Having steered through the night on a north-east course, Barrow's Island +came in sight the next morning, when it was about five leagues off; at +eight o'clock it bore between South 27 East and North 87 degrees East. +From noon to three p.m. we had calm, dull, and cloudy weather; and +although the thermometer did not range higher than 87 degrees, the heat +was extremely oppressive, and occasioned the death of three of our +turtles. At three o'clock a breeze springing up from the westward enabled +us to steer to the northward round the Montebello Islands, in doing which +we saw nothing of Hermite Island, which the French have laid down as the +westernmost island of that group. There is certainly no land to the +westward of Trimouille Island; and the error can only be accounted for by +Captain Baudin's having seen the latter at two different periods; indeed +this conjecture is in some measure proved, since there is a considerable +reef running off the north-west end of that island, which in the French +chart is attached to Hermite Island; this reef might not have been seen +by him at his first visit, and when he made the land again and observed +the reef he must have concluded it to have been a second island. + +After steering a north course until seven o'clock and deepening the water +to sixty-five fathoms, we gradually hauled round the north end of the +Montebello Isles; and at eleven p.m. steered East; but at two o'clock, +having decreased the depth from seventy-two to forty-one fathoms, we +steered off to the northward until daylight, and then to the +East-South-East, in order to anchor in the Mermaid's Strait to the +eastward of Malus Island, to take some stones on board as ballast, for +the brig was so very light and leewardly that it would have been running +a great risk to approach the land, as she then was. But in this we were +disappointed, for after an interval of close sultry weather, and a severe +thunderstorm, a gale of wind set in from the South-West, during which the +barometer fell as low as 29.36 inches. The gale then veered gradually +round to the North-West, and obliged us to make sail off the coast, and +by the time it moderated we were so far to leeward of Dampier's +Archipelago that I was constrained to alter my plan and give up the idea +of taking ballast on board. I therefore determined upon making Rowley's +Shoals, for the purpose of fixing their position with greater +correctness, and examining the extent of the bight round Cape Leveque, +which we were obliged to leave unexplored during the earlier part of this +voyage. + +1822. February 4. + +The first of these objects was effected on the 4th; on which day we +passed round the south end of the Imperieuse (the westernmost) Shoal; +which we now found to extend nearly four miles more to the southward than +had been suspected in 1818, at which period we steered round its north +end. + +A large patch of dry rocks was also seen on the north-east end of the +reef about ten miles from the vessel's track, and Mr. Roe, from the +masthead, thought that the east side of the shoal did not appear to be so +steep as the western side. + +From noon we steered east to make the shoal seen by the Good Hope, but +having sailed in that direction as far as latitude 17 degrees 42 minutes +51 seconds and longitude 119 degrees 32 minutes 4 seconds, without seeing +any signs of it for ten miles on either side of our course, we hauled to +the wind for the night and sounded in one hundred and forty-five fathoms +speckled sand and broken shells. + +February 5. + +At seven o'clock the following morning we were steering east when broken +water was reported bearing from East to East-South-East, but it turned +out to be a rippling which we passed through. These ripplings have been +frequently noticed in the vicinity of the reefs, but we have been very +little affected by the tides by which they must be occasioned. At noon we +were by observation in 17 degrees 43 minutes 41 seconds and longitude 119 +degrees 41 minutes 52 seconds, when we sounded in one hundred and twenty +fathoms, speckled sand mixed with broken shells and stones; and at twenty +miles farther to the eastward sounded again on the same depth. + +February 6. + +At eight o'clock the next morning, having steered through the night +North-East by East, we were in ninety fathoms, sand, broken shells, and +large stones. + +February 8. + +On the morning of the 8th the land was seen in the South-East and soon +afterwards the brig passed round Cape Leveque at the distance of a mile +and a half. On our way towards Point Swan we saw from the masthead a line +of strong tide-ripplings, extending from the point in a North-West by +West direction; within which we at first attempted to pass but, finding +that they were connected to the point, hauled up to steer through them +where they seemed to be the least dangerous. As we approached the noise +was terrific and, although we were not more than two minutes amongst the +breakers, yet the shocks of the sea were so violent as to make me fear +for the safety of our masts. A smaller vessel would perhaps have been +swamped; for although the sea was in other parts quite smooth and the +wind light, yet the water broke over the bows and strained the brig +considerably. + +We then steered between Point Swan and two rocky islands lying five miles +from the shore over a space which, at our last visit, appeared to be +occupied by an extensive reef, but we were then probably deceived by +tide-ripplings. + +It was my intention to have brought up under the lee of the point, where +Dampier describes his having anchored in twenty-nine fathoms clear sandy +ground; but upon rounding the projection, the wind suddenly fell and, +after a light squall from South-West we had a dead calm; the depth was +thirty fathoms coral bottom and therefore not safe to anchor upon; this +was unfortunate for the sudden defection of the wind prevented our +hauling into the bay out of the tide, which was evidently running with +considerable rapidity and drifting us, without our having the means of +preventing it, towards a cluster of small rocks and islands through which +we could not discover any outlet, and which were so crowded that in the +dangerous predicament in which we found ourselves placed they bore a +truly awful and terrific appearance. At this time I was at my usual post, +the masthead, directing the steerage of the vessel; but as the brig was +drifting forward by a rapid sluice of tide towards some low rocks, about +a quarter of a mile off, that were not more than two feet above the +water's edge, and upon which it appeared almost inevitable that we must +strike, I descended to the deck, under the certain conviction that we +could not escape the dangers that were strewed across our path unless a +breeze should spring up, of which there was not the slightest appearance +or probability. + +Happily however the stream of the tide swept us past the rocks without +accident and, after carrying us about half a mile farther, changed its +direction to south-east and drifted us towards a narrow strait separating +two rocky islands, in the centre of which was a large insulated rock that +seemed to divide the stream. The boat was now hoisted out and sent ahead +to tow, but we could not succeed in getting the vessel's head round. As +she approached the strait the channel became much narrower, and several +islands were passed at not more than thirty yards from her course. The +voices of natives were now heard and soon afterwards some were seen on +either side of the strait, hallooing and waving their arms; we were so +near to one party that they might have thrown their spears on board; they +had a dog with them which Mr. Cunningham remarked to be black. By this +time we were flying past the shore with such velocity that it made us +quite giddy; and our situation was too awful to give us time to observe +the motions of the Indians; for we were entering the narrowest part of +the strait, and the next moment were close to the rock which it appeared +to be almost impossible to avoid; and it was more than probable that the +stream it divided would carry us broadside upon it, when the consequences +would have been truly dreadful; the current, or sluice, was setting past +the rock at the rate of eight or nine knots, and the water being confined +by its intervention fell at least six or seven feet; at the moment, +however, when we were upon the point of being dashed to pieces, a sudden +breeze providentially sprung up and, filling our sails, impelled the +vessel forward for three or four yards: this was enough, but only just +sufficient, for the rudder was not more than six yards from the rock. No +sooner had we passed this frightful danger than the breeze fell again and +was succeeded by a dead calm; the tide however continued to carry us on +with a gradually decreasing strength until one o'clock, when we felt very +little effect from it. + +From the spot we had now reached the coast from Cape Leveque appeared to +trend to the southward but was not visible beyond the bearing of +South-West; there was however some land more to the southward that had +the appearance of being an island; it was afterwards found to be a +projection, forming the east head of a bay, and was subsequently called +after my friend Mr. Cunningham, to whose indefatigable zeal the +scientific world is considerably indebted for the very extensive and +valuable botanical collection that has been formed upon this voyage. + +We had a dead calm until high-water during which, as the brig continued +to drive with the tide to the southward in from twenty to twenty-four +fathoms, over a rocky bottom, I was undetermined what course to pursue in +order to preserve the situation which we had so unexpectedly reached, and +to prevent the ebb-tide from carrying us back through the strait: the +bare idea of this impending danger reconciled me to determine upon +sacrificing an anchor, for, from the nature of the bottom, it seemed next +to impossible that we could recover it, if once dropped. Just, however, +as the tide was beginning to turn, a breeze sprang up from the westward +and at once put an end to our fears and anxieties; all sail was made +towards Point Cunningham beyond which no land was visible; but the tide +being adverse and the evening near at hand, we anchored in the bight to +the north-west of the Point which bore South 32 1/2 degrees East seven +miles and a half. + +February 9. + +The next day I remained at the anchorage and despatched Mr. Roe to +examine the coast round Point Cunningham; Mr. Baskerville in the meantime +sounded about the bay between the brig and the western shore and found +very good anchorage in all parts: at about one mile to the westward of +our situation the bottom was of mud, and the depth nine and ten fathoms: +the land appeared a good deal broken, like islands, but from the vessel +the coast seemed to be formed by a continuity of deep bays that may +perhaps afford good anchorage. On one of the sandy beaches at the back of +the bay near Park Hillock, so-called from its green appearance and being +studded with trees, eight or ten natives were observed walking along the +beach close to the low water mark, probably in search of shell-fish; some +of them were children, and perhaps the others were women, except two or +three who carried spears; a dog was trotting along the beach behind them. + +After dark, according to a preconcerted plan, port fires were burnt every +half hour for Mr. Roe's guidance, and before midnight the boat came +alongside. Mr. Roe informed me that there was good anchorage round the +point; and where he landed at Point Cunningham there was plenty of fresh +water; but he saw nothing like land to the South-East; the coast trended +from Point Cunningham to the south, and was of low wooded sandy land. The +heat was excessive; the thermometer at noon, out of the influence of the +sun, stood at 120 degrees, and when they landed at Point Cunningham Mr. +Roe thought the heat was increased at least 10 degrees. At this place he +obtained an indifferent meridian altitude which placed it in 16 degrees +40 minutes 18 seconds South. + +In the meantime Mr. Cunningham, who had accompanied him, botanised with +success. The traces of natives, dogs, turtle-bones, and broken shells, +were found strewed about; and several fireplaces were noticed that had +very recently been used; a fresh-water stream was running down the rocks +into the sea, and at the back of the beach was a hollow, full of sweet +water. Near the fireplaces Mr. Roe picked up some stones that had been +chipped probably in the manufacture of their hatchets. + +The soil was of a red-coloured earth of a very sandy nature; and the +rocks were two sorts of sandstone, one of a deep red colour, the other +whitish, and harder. After leaving Point Cunningham they pulled round the +rocks, which extended for some distance off the point, and then entered a +bay, all over which they found good anchorage; a low distant point formed +the south extreme, but it was too late to reach it and at high-water they +landed at a bright red, cliffy point. + +At half-past five o'clock they re-embarked on their return and, although +the tide was in their favour, were six hours before they reached the +vessel; from which Mr. Roe calculated the distance to be nearly twenty +miles, and by the survey subsequently made it was found to be seventeen. + +February 11. + +We did not leave this anchorage until the 11th and then had some +difficulty in doing it, on account of the shoalness of the water upon the +sandbank that fronts the bay; indeed we were obliged to anchor until the +tide rose high enough to permit our crossing it. At two o'clock we again +got underweigh and crossed the bank, when the wind falling calm we +anchored with Point Cunningham bearing South 17 degrees East three and a +half miles. + +February 12. + +The following morning I sent Mr. Roe to the point to take some bearings; +the boat left the brig at half-past three o'clock but did not succeed in +reaching the land before the sun rose; at which time the horizon, from +being clearer, would have presented a more distinct view of distant +objects. The group of islands to the eastward was observed to extend no +farther to the southward than the bearing of North 88 degrees East, and +beyond this was an open, boundless sea. The station whence this bearing +was taken was on the north-west trend of the point. + +On their first landing Mr. Roe and Mr. Baskerville, with one of the +boat's crew, ascended the summit and, whilst employed in looking round, +heard the voices of natives among the trees about thirty yards off; but +as they could not see them they very properly descended, and carried on +their operations in the vicinity of the boat; they were onshore for two +or three hours afterwards, but the natives did not make their appearance. +The foot-marks of men and boys were evident on the sand below the +high-water mark, and the remains of fireplaces, and where the natives had +been manufacturing spears, were of recent date. The gentlemen brought off +a few shells and some insects, among which was a beautiful sphynx; +besides which one of the boat's crew caught a species of vampyrus, +apparently similar to the flying fox of Port Jackson. Of shells there was +not a great variety; a chama (Tridacna gigas, Lam.) a pinna, and the +trochus (caerulescens) of Dirk Hartog's Island; but at one of the +fireplaces they found a very large voluta that seemed to have served the +purpose of a water-vessel; it was fifteen inches long and ten inches in +diameter. + +The shores appear to abound with shellfish, although Dampier thought that +shells hereabouts were scarce. We could easily have completed our water +at this point, but from the place appearing to be populous and, as the +vessel could not be anchored sufficiently near the shore to have +protected the boat's crews, it was feared that our work might be impeded +by the natives. + +The boat returned at ten o'clock while we were getting underweigh; but +the wind being at South-East it was one o'clock before we weathered Point +Cunningham, when the tide was urging us forward rapidly. In steering +round the point we found ourselves passing through some light coloured +water and, before we could extricate the brig, were in three and a half +fathoms; the anchor was immediately dropped underfoot and, with the +assistance of the sails, which were kept full, the vessel was retained +whilst the whale-boat was veered astern, and ascertained that the +shoalest part had been already passed; therefore the anchor was again +weighed, and eventually dropped in the bay to the south of Point +Cunningham in fourteen fathoms and three quarters, fine speckled sand and +stones. + +In the direction of North 63 degrees West and at a mile and a half from +the anchorage was a remarkable flat-topped hill which was called at Mr. +Cunningham's wish, Carlisle Head, and the bay in which we anchored, +Goodenough Bay, in compliment to the Right Reverend the Lord Bishop of +Carlisle. At this part Mr. Cunningham found a new species of velleia (of +the natural order Goodenoviae). + +We were now suffering much from the extreme heat and closeness of the +weather; the thermometer ranged night and day between 85 and 89 degrees, +and when the breeze was light or the weather calm the air was +insufferably hot and close, and affected us all very much, but happily +without any very serious consequences. + +In the evening four natives armed with spears were seen sitting in the +shade upon the sandy beach under Carlisle Head, attentively watching us; +but upon being joined by three others, who came towards them from Point +Cunningham, got up and walked away. We have yet to learn how far these +people may be confided in, for we were not at a very great distance from +Hanover Bay where we so nearly paid dear for trusting ourselves amongst +them unarmed. + +February 13. + +We remained at the anchorage in Goodenough Bay until the following +morning, when we weighed to a very light breeze from south-east, the only +direction from which we experienced any wind; the breeze generally blew +strong at night, whilst during the day it was light, or nearly calm; so +that during the night we were very insecurely placed if the anchorage was +at all suspicious, and in the day were either delayed very much or +entirely prevented from weighing. + +Thus it was with us on this day; soon after we weighed it fell calm and +the tide, drifting us rapidly to the southward over rocky ground, carried +us close to a reef of dry rocks to the northward of Foul Point without +our being able to avoid it. At a little before five o'clock the +flood-tide was nearly expended and obliged us to drop the chain-cabled +anchor at the distance of three miles from Foul Point, upon a bottom of +rotten yellow-coloured rock that crumbled away upon being touched, but +from the noise that the chain made in dragging over the ground there was +reason to apprehend it was very rocky; and consequently great fears were +entertained for the safety of our anchor. + +Our situation was in the outer part of a bay, the southern head of which +bore South 22 degrees East, and which, from the loss and perplexity we +met with in it, was afterwards called Disaster Bay, and its south +extreme, off which is a small rocky island, was named Repulse Point. + +During the afternoon we had another instance of mirage which proved +useful so far that it indicated to us the trend of the land to the +south-eastward, in which direction nothing had previously been seen; it +appeared to be very low and level, and similar to the character of the +coast on the southward of Cape Leveque. At sunset when the haze cleared +off and the appearance of the land gradually sank below the horizon we +were instantly relieved from the oppressive heat we had experienced +during the day, for the thermometer had indicated a temperature of 91 +degrees and, when exposed to the influence of the sun, rose to 120 +degrees. + +Three natives were noticed as we passed along the shore; they were +walking upon a sandy beach abreast of us but very soon disappeared among +the trees and bushes which here grow close down to the waterside; they +were armed with spears and appeared to be watching our movements; for +they moved along in the direction of our course and did not afterwards +make their appearance during the evening. + +February 14. + +The next morning whilst the ebb-tide lasted we had a light breeze but, at +noon, as the weather was calm and the brig could not be got underweigh, +either with safety or utility, the boats were despatched in different +directions to improve our knowledge of the place. + +At low water a considerable sandbank was exposed to our view, that had +not previously been seen; it fronts the bay and is dry at low tide for +some extent, it is also shoal some distance to the northward, as our boat +had only four feet in passing over it. In the afternoon, as there was +every appearance of fine weather and no likelihood of a breeze, Mr. +Baskerville and Mr. Cunningham set off in a boat to visit Repulse Point, +in order to make what observations they could upon the further trend of +the land; but no sooner had they left the vessel than a breeze sprung up +and freshened to a gale in which our cable parted; and as there was no +chance of dropping another anchor with a prospect of recovering it, we +were obliged to return to our former anchorage in Goodenough Bay; but, +owing to the tide being contrary, the brig did not reach it until nearly +sunset. Our alarm and anxieties were now raised to a great pitch for the +safety of Mr. Baskerville and his companions: signals of recall had been +hoisted and several guns fired before the cable parted, but the boat was +too far off to notice either: as soon as it was dark signal guns were +fired and port fires burnt every ten minutes to guide its return. + +Happily these signals at last had the desired effect, for at ten o'clock +the boat came alongside. Mr. Baskerville had failed in reaching Repulse +Point but obtained some useful information as to the trend of the land +round the point, which still appeared to extend to the southward; they +had not been able to land, but had encountered much danger from the small +size of the boat, which shipped a great deal of water, so that by the +time it arrived they were completely drenched with the spray of the sea. +They had only observed our signals for a few minutes before their +arrival; for the flashes of the guns and the lights of the port-fires +were so confused with lightning and the fires of the natives on the shore +that they could not be distinguished from each other. Soon after they +arrived on board heavy rain commenced, and fell during the greater part +of the night. + +February 15. + +The ensuing day the weather was still squally and unsettled. In the +afternoon the launch and another boat were sent in search of our lost +anchor but returned at night without success; for the tide was so strong +that the buoy did not watch. The next morning it was again intended to +resume the search, but the weather clouded in and threatened to be so bad +that all further attempts were abandoned. + +This succession of bad weather, and our having only one anchor left, made +me feel the necessity of leaving this part, and giving up for the present +the examination of this interesting place; and as we wanted both wood and +water, which we had found no opportunity of obtaining here on account of +the tempestuous state of the weather, it was purposed we should go to +Port George the Fourth, which place would afford both security for the +vessel and facility for procuring these articles. This delay might also +be made serviceable by employing a part of the crew at the same time in +the boats in examining the islands in Rogers Strait, and tracing the +continuation of the mainland behind the islands that form the south-east +coast of Camden Bay, of which we knew nothing. After doing this I hoped +to be able to continue the examination of the deep bay behind +Montgomery's Islands, and connect that part with the gulf or strait +behind the Buccaneer's Archipelago in which we now were; but our loss of +anchors made all this very dangerous and, indeed, nothing could be done +without very fine weather, of which there was at present unfortunately no +appearance. + +But a greater and more serious hindrance was that our provisions were +very much reduced in quantity, and that we had not more than enough to +last, upon a full allowance, for the voyage to Port Jackson; the hope +however of procuring more information of this part of the coast was so +inviting that I did not despair of effecting something in a fortnight +worth the delay. We had dry provisions and water on board for about ten +weeks, so that with fine weather we could have retarded our departure for +ten or twelve days without much risk. + +February 16. + +Our quitting this place being determined upon we did not lose any time; +but from various delays of calm weather and adverse tides could not +succeed in getting out to sea until the 18th. + +It was impossible to go out by the dangerous channel through which we +entered; but as Sunday Strait, through which the brig had been drifted +before we went to Mauritius, appeared free from danger, we directed our +course to it. + +February 17. + +And, after being underweigh all the night near its inner entrance, during +which we had once nearly struck on a reef of rocks, found ourselves at +daylight drifting through it with a rapid ebb-tide without a breath of +wind. The tide however lasted long enough to carry us out, and when the +flood commenced, which would have drifted us back again, a fresh breeze +sprang up from the westward and very soon carried us clear of the +influence of the tide. + +With respect to the opening we had now left there were many conflicting +opinions among us, but I have every reason to think that the land from +Cape Leveque to Point Gantheaume is an island and that there is also a +communication between Cygnet and Collier's Bays, behind the islands of +the Archipelago, where it is also probable there is an opening trending +to the south-east. The great rise and fall of the tides in the +neighbourhood of Point Gantheaume gives a plausibility to this opinion; +and the only thing that I know against it is the trifling depth of the +water between that point and Cape Villaret. This however may be caused by +the numerous banks and channels existing there, and which, of themselves +alone, are indicative of the opening being something more than a mere +bay. + +As sunset approached the eastern horizon was as usual in commotion; heavy +dense clouds were collected, from which we had thunder and lightning. At +seven o'clock the appearance was more threatening and, as a squall was +evidently approaching, the sails were taken in and preparation made to +meet it: soon after eight o'clock it passed rapidly over and brought a +strong gust of wind, before which we were obliged to scud. After blowing +most tempestuously for an hour the wind moderated, and the night passed +without any repetition of it; we had however run five miles to leeward: +had we been obliged to do this last night when underway in Cygnet Bay, or +been drifted back this evening by the ebb-tide, we should have been very +dangerously placed, from being surrounded by islands and blinded by the +darkness of the night. Whilst this squall lasted the barometer was in no +way affected, but the thermometer fell two degrees, having stood all the +afternoon at 89 3/4 degrees. + +February 18. + +During the remainder of the night we stood off and on and experienced a +current setting in the direction of North 52 degrees West one mile per +hour. At eight o'clock the next morning (18th) Adele Island was seen; and +in the afternoon we passed at a mile and a half from the western side of +the reef which surrounds it. This island is low and sandy and covered +with small bushes; it is about two or three miles in length; a dry sand +extends for five miles from its south end, and as far as one mile from +its north-west point; but the covered part of the reef is more extensive, +and appeared rocky. At the distance of three miles and a half, in a +north-west direction from its north end, are two dry sandbanks which are +probably covered at high-water. Light-coloured water extended for three +miles to the westward and for fourteen miles to the north-west; but the +water is probably deep enough over it for any vessel to pass: we steered +over the tail within the coloured water, but had no bottom with +forty-five fathoms. In many parts near the island the rocks must be very +little below the surface of the water, for the sea occasionally broke +upon them. + +We then steered to the East and East-North-East and at night made short +trips on either tack. The weather was extremely sultry during the +afternoon, the thermometer being at 89 degrees, and when exposed to the +sun the mercury rose to 125 degrees. Towards sunset large flights of +boobies, terns, and other sea-birds passed by, flying towards the +islands. One or two stopped to notice us and flew round the brig several +times. + +February 19. + +The night was fine with light south-west winds; but we had lightning in +the North-East, from which quarter at daylight the weather clouded in; +and, from the increasing dampness of the atmosphere, indicated rain. + +At noon we were in 15 degrees 12 minutes 15 seconds South and 7 minutes 1 +second east of the anchorage in Cygnet Bay. The wind was from the +southward with dull cloudy weather. Large flights of birds were about the +vessel, preying upon small fish swimming among the seaweed, of which we +passed a great quantity. As the evening approached the weather clouded in +and threatened us with another squall from the eastward. The thermometer +stood at 88 degrees, and the barometer at 29.81 inches: half an hour +before sunset the clouds, which had collected in the eastern horizon, +began to thicken and approach us with loud thunder and vivid lightning: +all the sails, except the topsails which were lowered, were furled just +in time to avoid any bad effects from the squall, which commenced with a +strong gust from East-South-East and East; it lasted about an hour, +during the latter part of which we had very heavy rain. At eight o'clock +the wind fell to a calm and was afterwards baffling and light from north +to east and south-east. + +February 20. + +At daylight (20th) the morning was dull and cloudy: a bank of heavy +threatening clouds, rising from the eastward, induced my steering to the +westward to await the issue of this weather, so unfavourable for our +doing any good upon the coast, as well as increasing the danger of +navigating among reefs and islands where the tides were so strong. The +next morning at daylight we had a squall with rain and wind from the +eastward after which a fresh breeze set in from the same quarter: as this +weather appeared likely to last I very unwillingly determined upon +leaving the coast and returning immediately to Port Jackson. + +February 21 to 24. + +From the 21st until the 24th we had moderate winds between north and +south-east which gradually drew us out of the influence of the damp, +unwholesome weather we so lately experienced. Our course was held to the +northward of Rowley's Shoals which, upon passing, we found a strong +current setting towards them at the rate of one mile an hour. This +indraught increases the danger of navigating near this part but I do not +recollect having experienced any when we passed them in June, 1818. The +current, therefore, that we felt, may be only of temporary duration, and +probably caused by the variable state of the wind. + +1822. February 24 to March 3. + +Between the 24th of February and the 3rd of March we had light and +variable winds from all directions but, being more frequent from the +eastward than from any other point of the compass, I became reconciled to +the step I had taken of leaving the coast, since it would not have been +possible to have reached Port George the Fourth to effect any good. + +The thermometer now ranged between 87 and 89 degrees and the weather was +consequently extremely oppressive and sultry. + +March 3 to 11. + +On the 3rd at noon we were in latitude 18 degrees 45 minutes 18 seconds +and longitude 111 degrees 4 minutes 15 seconds when a breeze sprang up +from the South-east and carried us within the influence of the trade, +which blew steadily between South-South-east and South by East and +advanced us on our passage but carried us considerably to the westward. +On this course we were accompanied by immense shoals of albicores +(Scomber thynnus, Linn.) but they were of small size; very few measured +more than twenty inches in length, and the average weight about ten +pounds: The meat was very good and tender and as a great number of the +fish were caught, proved a grateful relief to our salt diet. The +atmosphere was very damp and before the vessel entered the trade we had +lightning every night, but it ceased the moment that we were within its +limits. Tropic and other oceanic birds, some of a dark brown colour, +hovered about us and were our daily companions, particularly the latter +which preyed upon the small fish that were pursued by the albicores. + +March 11 to 14. + +From the 11th to the 14th the trade ceased and the interval was supplied +by a northerly wind, veering round to west, which enabled us to make up +for the ground we had lost by its having been so much from the southward. +After this we had variable breezes between South and East-South-East but +the current, which before had been setting us to the north-west, now set +to the north-east; this change was probably occasioned by the +south-westerly swell. + +On the 14th we were in 27 degrees 49 minutes South, and 101 degrees 1 +minute East. Some tropic birds were seen this morning but as yet neither +albatrosses nor pintadoes had made their appearance. During the short +cessation of the trade the atmosphere was very dry until the +south-easterly winds returned, when it became more humid; but as we +approached the southern limit of this South-East wind, which may be +considered to bear more of the character of a periodical wind than the +trade, the atmosphere became altogether drier; it carried us as far as 32 +degrees 40 minutes South and 96 degrees 42 minutes West before it veered +to the northward of east when, after a calm, we had north-easterly winds +and fine weather of which we made good use. + +The first albatross was seen in 31 1/4 degrees South and was flying about +the brig at the same time with a tropic bird, which is a remarkable +occurrence, for I never saw the latter bird before so far without the +tropic; but here was one nearly five hundred miles to the southward of +it, and at least three hundred leagues from the nearest land; an +albatross (Diomedea exulans, Linn.) was shot, but did not measure more +than nine feet nine inches across the tips of the wings. + +February 25. + +On the 25th of February we examined our water and found the casks so much +damaged by rats that instead of having thirteen tons we had only nine on +board, but as this was thought to be sufficient for our voyage the daily +issue was not reduced. + +March 28. + +On the 28th of March however it was found necessary to make a +considerable reduction in the allowance. + +April 13. + +On the 13th of April the north-west end of Van Diemen's Land came in +sight but it was not until the 15th that we entered Bass Strait by the +passage between King's and Hunter's Islands. Off Cape Howe we boarded a +trading brig belonging to Port Jackson bound to Van Diemen's Land, from +which we obtained pleasing and satisfactory news of our friends at +Sydney, as also the gratifying intelligence of the promotion of myself to +the rank of commander, and of Messrs. Bedwell and Roe to that of +lieutenant. The promotion of the latter gentleman was under circumstances +of the most flattering nature, and here not only offers a most +satisfactory proof of the approbation bestowed by the Lords Commissioners +of the Admiralty upon my zealous assistant, but precludes me from the +otherwise pleasing task of giving my humble testimonial of his conduct +and merits. + +Between Cape Howe and Port Jackson we experienced much bad weather, which +delayed our arrival so long that we had expended all our bread and were +reduced to a very small proportion of water: + +April 25. + +We however succeeded in effecting our arrival at Sydney by the 25th, +after an absence of 344 days. + + + +CHAPTER 5. +The Bathurst sails for England. +Remarks upon some errors in the hydrography of the south coast of Van +Diemen's Land. +King George the Third's Sound. +Passage to the Cape of Good Hope. +Cross the Atlantic, and arrive at Plymouth Sound. +Observations upon the voyages, and conclusion. + +1822. April 25 to September 25. + +Upon an examination of the brig's defects after our arrival at Port +Jackson her stern and cut-water were found so defective as to require a +considerable repair; but from the difficulty of procuring seasoned wood, +so long a time elapsed before it was effected that we were not ready for +sea until the beginning of September, when other delays of minor +importance detained us until the 25th. + +At Port Jackson I found orders from the Lords Commissioners of the +Admiralty to return to England in the Bathurst when the survey should be +completed; but as we were in want of many things that the colony could +not furnish, and as we should be detained until the month of February +before the monsoon would allow of our going upon the coast; it was deemed +most advantageous for the public service to return without making another +voyage. Accordingly on the 25th September we sailed from Sydney with the +intention of proceeding to the north through Torres Strait, and calling +at the Mauritius on our way; but no sooner had we put to sea than a hard +gale set in from the north which induced me to bear up and either to go +round Van Diemen's Land to the westward, if the wind should favour such a +proceeding, or, by doubling the south end of New Zealand to make the +eastern passage round Cape Horn. + +1822. October 6. + +Having reached the south-east end of Van Diemen's Land on the 6th of +October, and a fresh north-easterly wind setting in at the same time, I +determined upon adopting the first plan; and therefore proceeded round +the south side of the island, in doing which I had the opportunity of +verifying some observations formerly taken by which it appeared that the +coast between Storm Bay and the South-west Cape was very erroneously laid +down both by Captain Flinders and the French expeditions under +d'Entrecasteaux and Baudin. + +On my voyage to Macquarie Harbour in 1819 I found so many errors in the +bearings that were taken as induced me to suspect an original error, and +on this occasion a very considerable one was detected. + +When Captain Flinders passed round Van Diemen's Land in the Norfolk he +obtained a meridional supplementary altitude of the sun to the south, his +vessel being under the land, which made the South-west Cape in 43 degrees +29 minutes South; but finding the next day that his instrument was 2 +minutes 40 seconds in error to the north he assigned to the cape a +position of 43 degrees 32 minutes. In the Introduction to his voyage* he +makes some remarks in a note upon the positions assigned to it by +Captains Cook and Furneaux; the latter officer placed it in 43 degrees 39 +minutes, in which I also found it to be by its transient bearing from the +South Cape. By a series of bearings carried along the coast its position +is thirty-three miles West 3 degrees South true, from the South Cape. + +(*Footnote. Flinders volume 1 Introduction page 179.) + +All parts of the coast in this interval are proportionally in error as to +latitude but tolerably well placed in reference to the coast. The +subjoined are the positions now assigned to the following places, namely: + +COLUMN 1: NAME OF PLACE. +COLUMN 2: LATITUDE. +COLUMN 3: LONGITUDE ACCORDING TO CAPTAIN FLINDERS' SURVEY. + +South Cape : 43 degrees 38 minutes : 146 degrees 56 minutes. + +Mewstone : 43 degrees 46 minutes : 146 degrees 31 1/2 minutes. + +South-west Cape : 43 degrees 39 minutes : 146 degrees 12 minutes. + +The south-east cape of Bruny Island, Tasman's Head, is also placed too +much to the southward in Captain Flinders' chart as well as in that of +Baudin. From the Mermaid it was set in a line with the south-east cape on +the bearing of North 56 degrees East (the vessel's head being to the +eastward); and on this occasion (the brig's head being to the westward) +it bore, when in the same line, North 53 degrees East. The variation in +the latter case was 9 degrees East, but in the former no more than 6 +degrees was allowed, and Captain Flinders found even 4 degrees +sufficient. + +I passed outside the Mewstone and took its bearing as it came on with the +points of the land between the south-west and the south-east capes, by +which I satisfied myself beyond a doubt of the correctness of my +observations and of the error into which Captain Flinders had fallen, and +which must either be attributed to the imperfection of his instrument or +to his reading off the altitude 10 minutes in error; and as there is just +that difference between it and the position assigned by Captain Furneaux, +which is also confirmed by my observation, the probability is in favour +of the last conjecture. + +After leaving the coast of Van Diemen's Land we had much damp, +unwholesome weather, and a succession of heavy westerly gales, in which +the brig was occasionally much pressed. + +1822. November 8-31. + +And it was not until the 8th of November that we made Bald Island, which +is to the eastward of King George's Sound. We were now much in need of a +place to caulk the bends, as well as to repair some temporary damage to +the rigging and complete our wood and water. I therefore seized the +opportunity of our being near the sound and, steering into it, anchored +off the sandy bay within Seal Island and immediately commenced +operations. We were however much delayed by hard westerly gales, which +not only prevented the carpenter's caulking, but also delayed our +watering, since the boat could not pull to the shore; but as the +anchorage was well sheltered we suffered no further inconvenience than +the delay. + +A few days after our arrival we were surprised by the appearance of a +strange vessel beating into the sound; she proved to be an American +schooner on a sealing voyage and was coming in for the purpose of +careening and cleaning the vessel's bottom in Oyster Harbour. The natives +also made their appearance and some of them being our old friends, +immediately recognised us. + +As there was no wood convenient to our anchorage I moved the vessel to +the entrance of Princess Royal Harbour, near the northern head of which, +at the south end of the long sandy beach, the trees were growing in +abundance close to the beach: it was at this place also that Captain +Flinders obtained his wood; and excepting the entrance of Oyster Harbour +it is the most convenient place in the whole sound. + +Whilst at this last anchorage we were visited by the natives, many of +them strangers; they were accompanied by our old friend Coolbun, the +native that, upon our former visit, was so noisy in explaining to his +companions the effect of the shot that was fired. On one occasion, when +they were on board, an immense shark was hooked, but broke the hook and +escaped, which was a great disappointment to them, for they evidently +anticipated a luxurious meal. After this they went on shore, when the +breeze blew so fresh as to make some seasick, very much to the amusement +of those who did not suffer, particularly one of the older men. On this +occasion the names of several of the natives were obtained, which have +been inserted with a few additional words at the end of the list obtained +from them during our former visit.* Our friend Jack did not make his +appearance, nor did the natives at all seem to understand for whom we +were enquiring. + +(*Footnote. See above.) + +As soon as our wood was completed the brig was moved to an anchorage off +the watering bay which proved a more convenient place than under Seal +Island, as it was better sheltered and nearer to the watering-place. +After riding out a heavy gale from the westward at single anchor without +any accident and as soon as our water was completed, we again anchored +for a day under Seal Island, but were obliged to make two attempts before +we succeeded in getting out to sea. + +Whilst at the anchorage off Princess Royal Harbour I went to Oyster +Harbour to procure flowering specimens of a tree which had hitherto been +a subject of much curiosity to botanists: at our former visits the season +was too far advanced; and Mr. Brown was equally unfortunate. The plant +resembles xanthorrhoea, both in its trunk and leaves, but bears its +flower in a very different manner; for, instead of throwing out one long +flower scape, it produces eighteen or twenty short stalks, each +terminated by an oval head of flowers. I recollected having seen a large +grove of these trees growing at a short distance from the outer beach on +the east side of the entrance of the harbour; and on going there found +the decayed flowers and seeds sufficiently perfect to throw a +considerable light upon this singular plant;* several were procured and +brought to England. A drawing of this tree is given in the view of King +George's Sound in Captain Flinders' account of the Investigator's +voyage.** In the list of the plants collected by me upon this occasion +was a splendid species of anigosanthus, which proved to be quite new, and +had escaped the observation both of Mr. Brown and of Mr. Cunningham. +Living plants of various genera were also procured: among which were +several of the remarkable Cephalotus follicularis (Brown) which however +alone survived the voyage, and are now growing in the royal gardens at +Kew. + +(*Footnote. More perfect specimens were afterwards collected by Mr. +Baxter, and sent, through Mr. Henchman his employer, to my friend Mr. +Brown, the original discoverer of the tree in Captain Flinders' voyage, +and the author of the paper in the appendix at the end of the volume +relating to it.) + +(**Footnote. Flinders volume 1 page 60.) + +December 1 to February 9, 1823. + +Having effected our departure from King George's Sound we proceeded on +our way towards Simon's Bay at the Cape of Good Hope, which we reached on +the 14th January after a passage of forty-six days without encountering a +gale of wind or the occurrence of any event worth recording. + +February 9 to April 23. + +We left Simon's Bay on the 9th of February and, after touching at St. +Helena and Ascension, crossed the line in 22 degrees 6 minutes West; and +on the 7th of April made the Island of Flores, one of the Azores. On the +same morning we fell in with two French men of war, a frigate and a +corvette, who bore down but, upon showing our colours, hauled their wind +and resumed their course without communicating with us. Between this and +the Channel we were delayed by a succession of northerly winds. The +Lizard Lights were made in the night of the 22nd of April and the +following day we anchored in Plymouth Sound; after an absence of more +than six years. + +It may not be considered irrelevant here to make a few brief observations +upon what has been effected by these voyages, and what yet remains to be +done upon the northern coasts of Australia. Beginning with the +north-eastern coast, I have been enabled to lay down a very safe and +convenient track for vessels bound through Torres Strait, and to +delineate the coastline between Cape Hillsborough, in 20 degrees 54 +minutes South, and Cape York, the north extremity of New South Wales; a +distance of six hundred and ninety miles. As my instructions did not +authorise my delaying to examine any part of this coast I could not +penetrate into the many numerous and extensive openings that presented +themselves in this space; particularly in the neighbourhoods of Cape +Gloucester, Upstart, and Cleveland; where the intersected and broken +appearances of the hills at the back are matters of interesting enquiry +and research. + +My instructions at first confined me between Cape Arnhem and the +North-west Cape, but were subsequently extended to the western coast. The +examination of the northern and part of the north-western coasts, from +Wessel Islands to Port George the Fourth, a distance of seven hundred and +ninety miles, has been carefully made and, with a few exceptions, every +opening has been explored. Those parts in this interval that yet require +examination are some inlets on the south side of Clarence Strait, and one +of more considerable size to the eastward of Cambridge Gulf, trending in +to the south-east: otherways, the coast comprised within these limits has +been sufficiently examined for all the purposes of navigation. + +The coast also between the North-west Cape and Depuch Island, containing +two hundred and twenty miles, has also been sufficiently explored; but +between the latter island and Port George the Fourth, a distance of five +hundred and ten miles, it yet remains almost unknown. The land that is +laid down is nothing more than an archipelago of islands fronting the +mainland, the situation of which is quite uncertain. Our examinations of +these islands were carried on as far as Cape Villaret, but between that +and Depuch Island the coast has only been seen by the French, who merely +occasionally saw small detached portions of it. At present however this +is conjecture; but the space is of considerable extent and, if there is +an opening into the interior of New Holland, it is in the vicinity of +this part. Off the Buccaneer's Archipelago the tides are strong and rise +to the height of thirty-six feet. Whatever may exist behind these +islands, which we were prevented by our poverty in anchors and other +circumstances from exploring, there are certainly some openings of +importance; and it is not at all improbable that there may be a +communication at this part with the interior for a considerable distance +from the coast. + +The examination of the western coast was performed during an almost +continued gale of wind, so that we had no opportunity of making any very +careful observation upon its shores. There can however be very little +more worth knowing of them, as I apprehend the difficulty of landing is +too great ever to expect to gain much information; for it is only in +Shark's Bay that a vessel can anchor with safety. + +With respect to the subjects of natural history that have been procured +upon the voyage, it is much to be lamented that the small size of the +vessel and our constant professional duties prevented my extending them. +Of quadrupeds we saw but few. Birds were very numerous but the operation +of skinning and preserving them would have taken up more time than could +be afforded. A few insects, some shells, and a small series of specimens +of the geology of the parts we landed at were among the only things +obtained, excepting the extensive and valuable collection of plants +formed by Mr. Cunningham which are now in the possession of Mr. Aiton, of +the Royal Gardens at Kew; for which establishment it would seem that they +were solely procured. It was in fact the only department of natural +history in which any pains were taken and for which every assistance was +rendered. A small herbarium was however collected by me, containing +nearly five hundred species: they are in the possession of my respected +friend Aylmer B. Lambert, Esquire, whose scientific attainments in the +field of botany are well and widely known. It is to be hoped however that +the few subjects offered to the scientific world in the appendix, through +the kindness of my friends, will not be thought uninteresting or +unimportant; and that they will serve to show how very desirable it is to +increase the comparatively slender knowledge that we possess of this +extensive country, which in this respect might still with propriety +retain its ancient name of Terra Australis INCOGNITA. + +Whilst this sheet was going through the press accounts were received at +the Admiralty from Captain J.G. Bremer, C.B. of H.M. Ship Tamar who was +despatched by the government in the early part of last year (1824) to +take possession of Arnhem's Land, upon the north coast of the continent, +and to form an establishment upon the most eligible spot that could be +found for a mercantile depot. Of the proceedings of this expedition the +following particulars have been communicated to me by Lieutenant J.S. +Roe, my former companion and assistant, who was appointed lieutenant of +the Tamar upon her being destined for that service; and which, as the +sequel of the voyage I have been describing, cannot be deemed irrelevant +or uninteresting, since the place fixed upon by Captain Bremer was +discovered during the early part of the said voyage.* + +(*Footnote. See volume 1.) + +The Tamar arrived at Port Jackson on the 28th of July, 1824; when every +facility was rendered by the colonial government to further the object in +view. The expedition sailed thence in less than a month with a detachment +of the 3rd regiment and forty-five convicts, in addition to the party of +Royal Marines that had been embarked before the Tamar left England. The +establishment was placed under the command of Captain Barlow of the 3rd +regiment. A merchant ship, the Countess of Harcourt, was taken up to +convey the stores and provisions, and the Lady Nelson, colonial brig, was +also placed at the disposal of the commandant. + +Lieutenant Roe, in describing this voyage to me, writes: "We had a very +favourable passage to the northward, and in less than three weeks cleared +Torres Strait by the route you recommended to Captain Bremer, without +encountering any accident. We nevertheless saw several shoals that, in +our former voyages in the Mermaid and Bathurst, were not noticed; by +reason of the greater altitude of the Tamar's masthead affording a much +more extensive view on either side of our course." The particulars of +these discoveries of Lieutenant Roe are given in the Appendix, under the +description of the North-East Coast, in the order in which they occur. + +Having cleared Torres Strait the Tamar anchored in Port Essington. +Lieutenant Roe then says, "Having brought the ship to anchor off Table +Point in Port Essington, all the boats were hoisted out and the marines +landed, when, an union-jack being fixed upon a conspicuous tree near the +extremity of the point, formal possession was taken of the north coast of +Australia, between the meridians of 129 and 136 degrees East of +Greenwich. The marines fired three volleys, and the Tamar a royal salute, +upon the occasion. + +"Our first object being to find water, parties were despatched in various +directions for that purpose; but after traversing many miles of country, +and coasting a great deal of the port, only one place was discovered (the +low sandy east point of entrance to Inner Harbour) where any was to be +procured, and it was then only obtained by digging deep holes in the +sand. A large Malay encampment had recently removed from this spot, +leaving their fireplaces and temporary couches, and large piles of +firewood to season, in readiness for their next visit. No natives were +seen, not even at our old place in Knockers Bay. The adjoining country +was found to be very good forest land, well timbered, but parched with +drought, which was by no means in favour of our views. Having buried a +sealed bottle upon the sandy point, containing an account of our +proceedings, we named it Point Record,* and sailed at the expiration of +two days for Apsley Strait. + +(*Footnote. Point Record is the low sandy point on the left of the +picture in the view of Port Essington, volume 1.) + +"Light winds retarded our arrival off Cape Van Diemen until the 24th, and +it was not before the 26th that we brought up close to Luxmoore Head, in +St. Asaph Bay. Possession was here taken in a similar manner and with the +same forms as at Port Essington, and we commenced a strict search for +water in every direction in the neighbourhood of the head, which appeared +so desirable and commanding a position, that it was with great reluctance +we eventually gave up all idea of settling there, on not finding fresh +water in its neighbourhood. + +"At the expiration of five or six days a small river and plenty of water +was discovered on Melville Island abreast of Harris Island; and an +eligible situation for the intended new settlement being discovered near +it, the ships were removed thither on the 2nd of October, and parties +landed to commence immediate operations with the axe and saw. The +projection of land fixed upon for the site of a town, was named after the +commandant (Captain Barlow). The cove in which the ships were at anchor +was named King's Cove by Captain Bremer, after yourself, as the original +discoverer of the strait; and that part of Apsley Strait, between +Luxmoore Head and Harris Island,* received the name of Port Cockburn, in +honour of Vice Admiral Sir George Cockburn, G.C.B., one of the Lords of +the Admiralty. + +(*Footnote. Harris Island was named by me after my friend John Harris, +Esquire, formerly surgeon of the 102nd Regiment, who has served so long +and so faithfully in various offices under the government of New South +Wales.) + +"All disposable hands being employed on shore in clearing Point Barlow of +wood and other impediments, we were speedily enabled to commence the +erection of a fort, seventy-five yards in length by fifty wide; to be +built of the trunks of the felled trees, and to be surrounded by a ditch +ten feet wide and deep. On the memorable 21st of October, our +quarter-deck guns were landed and mounted, the colours were hoisted for +the first time, and the work was named Fort Dundas, under a royal salute +from itself. + +"From this time the place began to assume the appearance of a fortified +village; quarters were constructed within the walls of the fort for the +accommodation of the officers belonging to the establishment, and about +thirty huts of various kinds were erected, and thatched with rushes for +the soldiers and convicts. A deep well was sunk near the fort; a good +substantial wharf ran out into the water; and, as soon as a commissariat +storehouse was finished, all the provisions were landed from the Countess +of Harcourt and secured there. + +"The soil in the neighbourhood of the settlement being exceedingly good, +gardens were cleared and laid out, and soon produced all kinds of +vegetables. In our stock we were rather unfortunate, for of six sheep +that were landed for the purpose of breeding, five died, supposed from +the effect produced by eating some pernicious herb in the woods: pigs, +ducks, and fowls seemed however in a fair way of doing well, and had +increased considerably since they were landed; but great inconvenience +was experienced for want of some horses or draught oxen, which would not +only have materially expedited the work in hand, but would have spared +the men much laborious fatigue and exposure to the effects of a vertical +sun: all difficulties and obstacles were however met and overcome with +the greatest zeal and perseverance, and the works proceeded with such +spirit and alacrity, that we were enabled to sail for Bombay on the 13th +of November, without exposing the new settlement either to the jealousy +of the Malays, or the mischievous attack of the natives. No traces of the +former people were observed at this place, nor any of the trepang that +would be their sole inducement for visiting it. Not one native made his +appearance before the early part of November when, as if by signal, a +party of about eighteen on each shore communicated with us on the same +day and were very friendly, although exceedingly suspicious and timid. +They would not venture within the line of the outer hut and always came +armed, but laid aside their spears and clubs whenever friendly signs were +made. On the second day of their visit I was greatly astonished to see +amongst them a young man of about twenty years of age, not darker in +colour than a Chinese but with perfect Malay features and like all the +rest entirely naked: he had daubed himself all over with soot and grease, +to appear like the others, but the difference was plainly perceptible. On +perceiving that he was the object of our conversation, a certain archness +and lively expression came over his countenance, which a native +Australian would have strained his features in vain to have produced. The +natives appeared to be very fond of him. It seems probable that he must +have been kidnapped when very young, or found while astray in the woods.* + +(*Footnote. At our visit to this place in 1818 and during our +communication with the natives a boy of the above description was noticed +among them; he was brought down upon the shoulders of one of the Indians, +in which position he is represented in the view. See volume 1.) + +"These Indians made repeated signs for hatchets, which they called +paaco-paaco, and although they had stolen two or three on their first +appearance, it was considered desirable to gain their goodwill by giving +them more, and three were accordingly presented to individuals among them +who appeared to be in authority. They were of course much pleased, but +the next day several axes, knives, and sickles were taken by force from +men employed outside the settlement, upon which they were made to +understand that until these articles were restored no more would be +given. This arrangement being persevered in by us, they determined upon +seizing these implements on every occasion that presented itself; so that +it was found necessary to protect our working parties in the woods by a +guard; the result of which was that the natives threw their spears +whenever resistance was offered, and the guard was obliged to fire upon +the aggressors. + +"Open acts of hostility having now been committed, and the natives +increasing daily in numbers to upwards of one hundred round the +settlement, a good lookout was kept upon them; but not sufficiently to +prevent about sixty of them surprising five of the marines in a swamp +cutting rushes, and throwing their spears amongst them: their salute was +immediately returned, and they disappeared without any damage having been +done on either side; at the same minute however reports of musketry were +heard at our watering-place and garden and proved to be in repelling an +attack that about forty natives had made upon our jolly-boat watering and +two men cutting grass. One of the natives was shot dead at ten yards' +distance while in the act of throwing his spear; and our people thought +that several others were wounded as they disappeared making most strange +noises, and have not been near us since. One of the spears thrown upon +the last occasion had sixteen barbs to it but, in general, they were +merely scraped to a sharp point without even one barb, and were not +thrown with anything like precision or good aim, which accounts for none +of their weapons having taken effect, although discharged at our people +at the distance only of a few yards." + +Soon after this the Tamar left Fort Dundas for the India station and +despatched the Countess of Harcourt upon her ulterior destination. The +settlement was left in a very forward state and consisted altogether of +one hundred and twenty-six individuals of whom there were 3 or 4 women +and forty-five convicts; the remainder were composed of detachments of +the 3rd regiment (the Buffs) and of the marines, the latter under the +command of Lieutenant Williamson. The Lady Nelson was left with +Commandant Barlow. + +Such is the state of the settlement of Fort Dundas, which at some future +time must become a place of considerable consequence in the eastern +world. The soil and climate of Melville and Bathurst Islands are capable +of growing all the valuable productions of the East, particularly spices, +and many other equally important articles of trade: it is conveniently +placed for the protection of ships passing to our Indian possessions from +Port Jackson, and admirably situated for the purposes of mercantile +speculation. + +Such, then, are the first fruits of the voyages I have had the honour to +direct. Much, however, of the coast yet remains to be examined; and +although, for the general purposes of navigation, it has been quite +sufficiently explored, yet there are many spaces upon the chart left +blank that would be highly interesting to examine and really important to +know. We have but a slight knowledge also of the natural history of the +continent; slight however as it is, no country has ever produced a more +extraordinary assemblage of indigenous productions; no country has proved +richer than Australia in every branch of natural history; and it has +besides, this advantage, that as the greater part is yet entirely +unknown, so much the more does it excite the interest of the geographer +and naturalist. + +The examination of its vast interior can only be performed by degrees: +want of navigable rivers will naturally impede such a task, but all these +difficulties will be gradually overcome by the indefatigable zeal of our +countrymen, of whose researches in all parts of the world the present +times teem with such numerous examples. + + + +APPENDIX A. + +Previously to entering into the detail of the following coast-directions, +in which it has been attempted, for the sake of a more easy reference, to +collect all the nautical information under one general head, it may be +proper to premise that Captain Flinders, in the account of his voyage,* +has given two very useful chapters upon the winds and weather that may be +experienced upon the various coasts of this continent; as well as +information respecting its general navigation and particular +sailing-directions for the outer passage from Port Jackson through Torres +Strait, by entering the reefs at Murray Island. From these chapters +Captain Horsburgh has arranged, in his valuable work on the Hydrography +etc. of the Indian Ocean, a set of sailing-directions and other nautical +information** that will be found useful for the navigation of the +southern and eastern coasts of this continent. + +(*Footnote. Volume 1 book 1 chapter 11 and volume 2 book 2 chapter 11.) + +(**Footnote. Horsburgh's Indian Directory volume 2 pages 493 and 515.) + + + + +APPENDIX A. SECTION 1. + +OF THE WINDS AND CURRENTS, AND DESCRIPTION OF THE PORTS, ISLANDS, AND +COAST BETWEEN PORT JACKSON AND BREAKSEA SPIT. + +EAST COAST. + +The south-east trade cannot be said to blow home upon that part of the +coast of New South Wales, which lies between Breaksea Spit and Port +Jackson, except during the summer months when winds from that quarter +prevail and often blow very hard; they are then accompanied by heavy +rains and very thick weather: generally however from October to April +they assume the character of a sea-breeze and, excepting during their +suspension by south-easterly or westerly gales, are very regular. In the +month of December strong south-easterly gales are not uncommon; and in +February and March they are very frequent. + +In the month of December hot winds from the north-west will sometimes +last for two or three days, and are almost always suddenly terminated by +a gust of wind from the southward. The most prevailing winds, during all +seasons, are from the south, and are probably oftener from the eastward +of that point than from the westward. The current always sets to the +southward, and has been found by us on several occasions to set the +strongest during a South-East gale. The general course of the current is +in the direction of the coast, but this is not constant; for, between +Port Stevens and to the southward of Port Jackson, it sometimes sets in +towards it. In a gale from the South-East in the month of December 1820, +it must have been setting as much to the westward as South-West. This +should be attended to, particularly in south-easterly gales, and an +offing preserved to provide against the wind's veering to East-South-East +and East by South, which is often the case; and then the current, setting +upon the weather-bow, will place the vessel, in a dark night, in +considerable danger. The rate of the current is generally about one mile +per hour, but it sometimes though rarely runs at the rate of nearly three +knots. + +To the eastward in the space between New South Wales and New Caledonia +the current sets to the North-West, which carries a great body of water +into the bight between the former and New Guinea; but as Torres Strait +offers but a very inconsiderable outlet the stream is turned, and sets to +the southward until it gradually joins the easterly current which, from +the prevalence of westerly winds, is constantly running between Van +Diemen's Land and Cape Horn. + +The tides in this interval are of little consequence and in few places +rise higher than six feet at the springs, excepting where they are +affected by local circumstances. + +There are but few places of shelter upon the east coast between Port +Jackson and Breaksea Spit: Captain Flinders points out Broken Bay, Port +Hunter for small craft, Port Stephens, Shoal Bay for vessels not +exceeding fifty tons, and Glass House (Moreton) Bay. There are however +other anchorages that might be resorted to in the event of being thrown +upon a lee shore, which are equally good with Port Hunter, Shoal Bay, and +Glass House Bay. + +There is an anchorage behind Black Head to the north of Point Stevens +which Lieutenant Oxley discovered to be an island; Port Macquarie also +affords shelter for small vessels; and on the north side of Smoky Cape +there is good shelter from southerly or south-easterly winds: but the +whole of these, excepting Broken Bay, are only attainable by small +vessels. A large ship must keep an offing; and as the coast is not at all +indented the wind must blow very hard, and the ship sail very badly, to +be placed in danger. Wide Bay however is a very good port, and affords a +safe and secure shelter; the anchorage being protected by a reef which +fronts it. + +PORT JACKSON. + +The Lighthouse, or Macquarie Tower, is in latitude 33 degrees 51 minutes +11 seconds South and longitude 4 minutes 29.8 seconds east of Sir Thomas +Brisbane's Observatory at Sydney, or 151 degrees 19 minutes 45 seconds +East of Greenwich. It is a revolving light and may be seen at the +distance of ten leagues. The Inner South Head bears from it North 20 +degrees West* and is distant about two thousand five hundred yards. The +North Head bears from the Inner South Head North 53 degrees East by +compass, about two thousand four hundred and forty yards; and the +narrowest part of the entrance, which is between the Inner North and +South Heads, is a little more than eight hundred yards, so that there is +abundance of room to work in should the wind blow out of the Port. On +arriving off the lighthouse, steer in between the North and South Heads +until you are past the line of bearing of the Outer North, and the Inner +South Heads: then haul round the latter, but avoid a reef of rocks that +extends for two hundred yards off the point, and steer for Middle Head, a +projecting cliff at the bottom of the bay, until the harbour opens round +the Inner South Head; you may then pass on either side of the Sow and +Pigs; but the eastern channel, although the narrowest, is perhaps the +best; but this, in a great measure, depends upon the direction of the +wind. The eastern channel is the deepest. The Sow and Pigs, or Middle +Ground, is the only danger in Port Jackson: it is a bank of sand and +rocks, of about eight hundred yards in length, by about three hundred and +fifty in breadth: its length being in the direction of the harbour; a +very small portion of it is dry, and consists of a few rocks, upon which +the sea almost always breaks; they are situated upon the outer end of the +shoal, and are in the line of bearing of the Outer North and the Inner +South Heads. The south-western tail of the bank is chiefly of sand, with +rocks scattered about it; but, on the greater portion of it, there is +twelve feet water; it gradually deepens to three and a quarter fathoms, +which is beyond the rocky limits of the shoal. To sail through the +Western Channel, which is from one-third to half a mile wide, steer +towards George's Head, a high rocky head, about three quarters of a mile +above Middle Head, keeping it in sight upon the larboard bow, and the sea +horizon open between the points of entrance, until you are within the +line of bearing between a small sandy beach on the western shore and +Green Point; the latter is a grassy mound, the south head of Camp Cove. +Then steer for George's Head, and gradually round it: when you have +passed the line of bearing between it and Green Point, and opened the +sandy beach of Watson's Bay, steer boldly up the harbour. In rounding +Point Bradley, there is a rocky shelf that runs off the point for perhaps +one hundred yards. Pass on either side of Pinch-gut Island, and, in +hauling into Sydney Cove, avoid a rocky reef that extends off Point +Bennelong for rather more than two hundred yards into the sea. + +To sail through the Eastern Channel, or to the eastward of the Sow and +Pigs, haul round the Inner South Head until the summit of the Inner North +Head is in a line with the inner trend of the former, bearing by compass +North 23 1/2 degrees East; then steer South-South-West until you have +passed Green Point, when the course may be directed at pleasure up the +harbour. + +In turning to windward, go no nearer to the Sow and Pigs than three and a +quarter fathoms, unless your vessel is small; nor within two hundred +yards of the shore, for although it is bold in most parts close to, yet +there are some few straggling rocks off the south point of Watson's Bay, +and also some round Shark's Island. There is good anchorage in all parts +of the harbour, when within Middle and the South Heads. There is also +anchorage in North Harbour, but not to be recommended, for the swell +sometimes rolls into the mouth of the harbour; no swell can, however, +affect the anchorage between Middle Head and the Sow and Pigs. + +SYDNEY COVE is nearly half a mile deep, and four hundred yards wide, and +will contain more than twenty ships swinging at their moorings. The +shores are bold to, and, excepting the rocky shoals that extend off Point +Bennelong and Point Dawes, ships may approach very near. + +On the eastern side of the cove is a convenient place for heaving down: +it belongs to the government, but merchant ships may use it, by paying a +small sum according to the length of time it is engaged. Wood and water +are easily obtained from the north shore of the port; the former may be +cut close to the beach; the latter is collected in tanks, and, excepting +during a very dry season, is always abundant. + +The tide rises occasionally at the springs as much as eight feet, but six +feet is the general rise; it is high water at Sydney Cove at half past +eight o'clock, but at the heads, it precedes this time by a quarter of an +hour. The variation of the magnetic needle observed on shore by +Lieutenant Roe: + +at Sydney Cove in 1822, to be 8 degrees 42 minutes East, + +at Garden Island 9 degrees 6 minutes East, + +at Camp Cove 9 degrees 42 minutes East. + +As all navigators are, or ought to be, supplied with Captain Horsburgh's +Indian Directory, it has not been thought necessary to descant further +upon the nature of the winds and currents of the east coast; since this +subject has been so fully treated upon, in the above valuable book, in +the section that commences at page 501. + +Captain Horsburgh has also described the entrance of Botany Bay at page +502, and of Broken Bay, at page 505. According to Lieutenant Jeffreys, +R.N., who commanded the hired armed transport Kangaroo, the latter +harbour has a bar stretching across from the south to the north head, on +which there is not less than five fathoms water. + +PORT HUNTER is situated fifty-nine miles North 22 degrees East (true) +from the entrance of Port Jackson. There is a lighthouse at its southern +entrance, and pilots are established who come off to vessels that arrive. +The entrance is round the Nobby (latitude 32 degrees 56 minutes, +longitude 151 degrees 43 1/4 minutes) an insulated rock: and the passage +is indicated by keeping two lights, that are placed at a distance from +each other at the wharf, in a line: the anchorage is about two hundred +yards from the wharf in three fathoms. The shoals on the west side are +dangerous, and several vessels have been wrecked upon them in going in. +The above information is from a plan drawn by Lieutenant Jeffreys, in the +Hydrographical Office at the Admiralty: it was drawn in the year 1816; +since which a portion of the labour of the convicts has been employed in +building a breakwater, or pier, from the south entrance to the Nobby +Rock, which will tend to direct the stream of tide through the channel, +and also protect it from the surf and swell, which, during a south-east +gale, must render the harbour of dangerous access. The town was formerly +called King's Town, but it has since been changed to that of Newcastle, +and the appellation of the Coal River has partly superseded the more +legitimate name of Port Hunter. + +PORT STEPHENS is easy to enter, but not to sail from, unless the wind is +fair, on account of the shoals that are near its entrance. Point Stephens +is in latitude 32 degrees 46 1/2 minutes, longitude 152 degrees 9 minutes +45 seconds. + +BLACK HEAD is an island, behind which there is very good anchorage; the +head is in latitude 32 degrees 38 minutes 20 seconds. Between Black Head, +and the hills called the Brothers, are WALLIS' Lake, in latitude 32 +degrees 11 minutes 50 seconds, HARRINGTON'S Lake, in 32 degrees 0 +minutes, and FARQUHAR'S Lake, in latitude 31 degrees 54 minutes; they +were discovered by Lieutenant Oxley on his return from his land journey +in 1819; they have all shoal entrances, and are merely the outlets of +extensive lagoons, which receive the streams from the hills, and occupy a +considerable space between the coast and the mountains. + +In latitude 31 degrees 47 minutes 50 seconds, and at the distance of two +miles and a quarter from the shore, is a dangerous reef, on which the sea +constantly breaks; it was named by Lieutenant Oxley, who discovered it, +the MERMAID'S REEF; it is about a quarter of a mile in extent, and bears +South 85 degrees East from the South Brother; a small detached portion of +the reef is separated from the principal rock, within which there +appeared to be a narrow navigable channel. A quarter of a mile without +the latter we found sixteen fathoms water. Round the point under the +North Brother Hill, is CAMDEN HAVEN, the particulars respecting its +entrance (in latitude 31 degrees 41 minutes, longitude 152 degrees) are +not yet known, but it is supposed to be very shoal. + +PORT MACQUARIE is the embouchure or the River Hastings; its entrance is +about two miles and two-thirds to the North-North-West of Tacking Point. +It is a bar harbour, and, like Port Hunter, is of dangerous access, on +account of the banks of sand that project from the low north sandy point +of entrance, on which the sea breaks and forms sand rollers; these +however serve to indicate the edge of the channel, which is about ninety +yards wide. The south shore extends in a North-North-West direction from +Tacking Point to Green Mound (a remarkable conical shaped hillock) whence +the south shore of the entrance trends in nearly a west direction to the +narrow entrance opposite Pelican Point. + +Between Green Mound and the next projection the bar stretches across +towards the sand rollers, and is about one hundred and twenty yards in +extent. + +The deepest channel over it is within thirty yards of two sunken rocks, +the outermost of which bears from Green Mound North 45 degrees West +(true) or North 55 degrees West, nine hundred yards. When Green Mound +Point and the next point to the southward of it are in a line, you are +within a few yards of the shoalest part of the bar. After passing the +bar, there are from two to four fathoms water. Since the examination of +this harbour, a penal settlement has been formed, and a pilot appointed +to conduct vessels in and out. Off the entrance is a high rocky islet, +the Nobby, within which the channel is shoal and dangerous to pass. There +is good anchorage in four, five, or six fathoms, about half a mile +outside of the bar, on a bank of sand, which gradually deepens for three +miles to fourteen fathoms, upon any part of which a vessel may anchor to +await high water. + +Latitude of its entrance 31 degrees 25 minutes 32 seconds South. + +Longitude 152 degrees 57 minutes 25 seconds East. + +Variation of the compass 10 degrees 11 minutes 0 seconds East. + +High water at full and change 8 hours 56 minutes. + +Tide rises four to five feet. + +The south-east trend of SMOKY CAPE is in latitude 30 degrees 55 minutes +40 seconds, longitude 153 degrees 4 minutes 30 seconds. + +TRIAL BAY, so named by Lieutenant Oxley, who anchored in it on a second +expedition to examine Port Macquarie previous to its being settled, is a +convenient roadstead during southerly winds: it is situated on the north +side of Smoky Cape, and affords an anchorage in three fathoms, protected +from the sea as far as North-East by East. Fresh water may be procured +from a stream that runs over the beach. Four miles to the north of Smoky +Cape is an inlet having a bar harbour, on which there is but eight feet +water. + +SHOAL BAY is the next harbour to the northward: the following description +of it is from Captain Flinders (Flinders' Terra Australis, Introduction, +cxcv.) + +"On the south side of the entrance, which is the deepest, there is ten +feet at low water; and within side the depth is from two to four fathoms, +in a channel near the south shore: the rest of the bar is mostly occupied +by shoals, over which boats can scarcely pass when the tide is out. High +water appeared to take place about seven hours after the moon's passage; +at which time a ship not drawing more than fourteen feet might venture +in, if severely pressed. Shoal Bay is difficult to be found except by its +latitude, which is 29 degrees 26 1/2 minutes, but there is on the low +land about four leagues to the southward, a small hill somewhat peaked, +which may serve as a mark to vessels coming from that direction." + +CAPE BYRON, in latitude 28 degrees 38 minutes 10 seconds, longitude 153 +degrees 37 minutes 20 seconds. MOUNT WARNING is in latitude 28 degrees 24 +minutes, longitude 153 degrees 12 minutes. + +THE TWEED is a river communicating with the sea by a bar, on which there +is twelve feet water, it is situated about a mile and a half to the north +of a small island off Point Danger, which lies in latitude 28 degrees 8 +minutes. + +In latitude 28 degrees there is a communication with the inlet at the +south side of Moreton Bay, insulating the land whose north extremity is +Point Lookout. The entrance of this inlet is shoal and only passable for +boats. + +MORETON BAY.* In addition to the account of this bay by Captain +Flinders,** Lieutenant Oxley has lately discovered the Brisbane, a very +fine fresh water river that falls into it in 27 degrees 25 minutes +latitude, abreast of the strait between Moreton Island and Point Lookout. + +(*Footnote. This bay was originally called Glass House Bay, in allusion +to the name given by Captain Cook to three remarkable glass house-looking +hills near Pumice-stone River; but as Captain Cook bestowed the name of +Moreton Bay upon the strait to the south of Moreton Island, that name has +a prior claim, and is now generally adopted. A penal settlement has +lately been formed at Red Cliff Point, which is situated a little to the +north of the embouchure of the Brisbane River.) + +(*Footnote. Flinders Introduction cxcvi.) + +WIDE BAY, the entrance of which is in latitude 25 degrees 49 minutes, was +examined by Mr. Edwardson, the master of one of the government colonial +vessels; he found it to be a good port, having in its entrance a channel +of not less than three fathoms deep; and to communicate with Hervey's +Bay, thus making an island of the Great Sandy Peninsula. + +INDIAN HEAD is in latitude 25 degrees 1 minute, and longitude 153 degrees +23 minutes. + +... + + +APPENDIX A. SECTION 2. + +DESCRIPTION OF THE WINDS AND WEATHER, AND OF THE PORTS, ISLANDS, AND +COAST BETWEEN BREAKSEA SPIT AND CAPE YORK. + +NORTH-EAST COAST. + +The south-east trade is occasionally suspended near the shore by +north-easterly winds during the months of June, July, and August, the +only season that I have any experience of the winds and weather upon the +north-east coast; the weather is generally thick and cloudy, and often +accompanied with showers of rain, particularly during the two first +months. + + In the neighbourhood of Breaksea Spit in May, 1819, we +experienced a fresh gale from the westward, after which it veered +to south-east with thick rainy weather: and in the neighbourhood +of Cape Capricorn, in June, 1821, we had a fresh gale from the +north-east. Among the Northumberland Islands, we have experienced +westerly winds, but they blew in light breezes with fine weather. +Even as far as Cape Grafton the wind cannot be said to be steady. +To the north of this point, however, the winds are always +constant from the southward, and seldom or ever veer to the +westward of south, or to the eastward of South-East by East; they +generally are from South-South-East: fresh winds cause the +weather to be hazy, and sometimes bring rain, which renders the +navigation among the reefs in some degree dangerous. In my last +voyage up the coast, on approaching Cape York, the weather was so +thick that we could not see more than a quarter of a mile ahead; +we, however, ran from reef to reef, and always saw them in +sufficient time to alter the course if we were in error. In such +a navigation cloudy dull weather is, however, rather an advantage +than otherwise, because the reefs, from the absence of the glare +of the sun, are more distinctly seen, particularly in the +afternoon, when the sun is to the westward. Later in the season +(August 1820) we had more settled weather, for the wind seldom +veered to the southward of South-South-East, or eastward of +East-South-East; and this weather accompanied us from Breaksea +Spit, through Torres Strait. + +The best time for passing up this coast is in April and the beginning of +May, or between the middle of August and latter end of October; in the +months of June and July, the passage is not apparently so safe, on +account of the changeable weather that may be encountered, which to a +stranger would create much anxiety, although no real danger. Strict +attention to these directions and confidence in the chart, with a +cautious lookout will, however, neutralize all the dangers that thick +weather may produce in this navigation. + +The tides and currents in this part are not of much consequence. The rise +of tide is trifling, the flood-tide sets to the North-West, but at a very +slow rate. In the neighbourhood of the reefs, the stream sometimes sets +at the rate of a knot or in some cases at two knots, but for a small +distance it is scarcely perceptible. There appeared rather to be a gentle +drain of current to the North-West. + +HERVEY'S BAY and BUSTARD BAY have been already described by Captains Cook +and Flinders. We did not enter either, so that I have nothing to offer in +addition to the valuable information of those navigators (Hawkesworth +volume 3 page 113 and 117; and Flinders Introduction cci. and volume 2 +page 9 et seq.) + +LADY ELLIOT'S ISLAND is a low islet, covered with shrubs and trees, and +surrounded by a coral reef, which extends for three-quarters of a mile +from its north-east end; the island is not more than three-quarters of a +mile long, and about a quarter of a mile broad; it is dangerous to +approach at night, from being very low. It is situated thirty miles North +53 degrees West (magnetic) from the extremity of Breaksea Spit (as laid +down in Captain Flinders' chart); its latitude is 24 degrees 6 minutes, +and its longitude 152 degrees 45 minutes 15 seconds. + +BUNKER'S GROUP consists of three islets; they are low and wooded like +Lady Elliot's Island, and lie South-East and North-West from each other; +the south-easternmost (or 1st) has a coral reef projecting for two miles +and a half to the North-East: four miles and a half to the North-West of +the north-westernmost (or 3rd islet) is a large shoal, which, from the +heavy breakers upon it, is probably a part of the barrier or outer reefs. +The centre island (or 2nd) of the group is in latitude 23 degrees 51 +minutes 10 seconds, and longitude 152 degrees 19 minutes 5 seconds. Off +the south-west end of the 2nd island is a small detached islet connected +to it by a reef; and off the north-east end of the 3rd island is another +islet, also connected by a coral reef. + +The spaces between these islands, which are more than a league wide, are +quite free from danger: we passed within a quarter of a mile of the south +end of the reef off the 3rd island, without getting bottom with ten +fathoms. + +RODD'S BAY, a small harbour on the west side of the point to the +northward of Bustard Bay, offers a good shelter for vessels of one +hundred and fifty tons burden. The channel lies between two sandbanks, +which communicate with either shore. In hauling round the point, steer +for Middle Head, a projecting rocky point covered with trees, keeping the +centre of it in the bearing of about South (magnetic); you will then +carry first five, then six and seven fathoms: when you are abreast of the +north low sandy point, you have passed the sandbank on the eastern side, +the extremity of which bears from the point West 1/4 North about one +mile: then haul in East by South, and anchor at about one-third of a mile +from the low sandy point bearing North. + +In hauling round this point, you must not shoalen your water, on the +south side, to less than four fathoms, as the sandbank projects for a +mile and a quarter from Middle Head. In the centre of the channel, +between Sandy Point and Middle Head, and at about one third of a mile +from the former, you will have seven, eight, and nine fathoms water, +until it bears North by East when it shoals to five fathoms. The +situation of the extremity of the low sandy point upon Captain Flinders' +chart (East Coast sheet 3) is in latitude 23 degrees 59 minutes 45 +seconds, and longitude 151 degrees 34 minutes 45 seconds. High water +takes place at eight hours and a half after the moon's transit. + +In standing into Rodd's Bay, the water does not shoalen until you are in +a line with the north points of Facing Island and Bustard Bay. + +There is a run of fresh water in the bay to the eastward of the low sandy +point, but it was not thought to be a durable stream. Wood may be cut +close to the beach, and embarked without impediment. + +PORT BOWEN. Captain Flinders, in his account of this port, has merely +confined himself to the anchorage under Entrance Island (latitude 22 +degrees 29 minutes, longitude 150 degrees 45 minutes 30 seconds) which +is, at best, but an exposed roadstead. The channel in, on the north side +of the island, is free from danger, but, on the south side, between it +and Cape Clinton, there is an extensive shoal on which the sea breaks +heavily: it was not ascertained whether it is connected with the bank off +the south end of the island, but there is every probability of it. The +inlet round Cape Clinton affords good anchorage: but in the mid-channel +the depth is as much as eighteen fathoms; the sands on the western side +of the inlet are steep to, and should be avoided, for the tide sweeps +upon them. The best anchorage is in the sandy bay round the inner trend +of the cape (latitude 22 degrees 31 minutes 40 seconds, longitude 150 +degrees 44 minutes) where both wood and water are convenient. In steering +in from sea, haul round the cape, and pass about half to three-quarters +of a mile to the north of the high round island, in seven fathoms, +avoiding the sandbanks on either side. In passing the inner trend of the +cape, the water will shoal to three and three-quarter fathoms, but do not +approach too near the point. When you have opened the inlet, steer in, +and, having passed the inner cape, haul in to a sandy bay on the eastern +side, where you may anchor in eight or nine fathoms at pleasure. + +The centre of the shoal in the middle of the port bears North 1/4 East by +compass, from the high round island, and North by West 1/4 West when in a +line with Entrance Island. + +High water appears to take place half an hour later than at Entrance +Island, or about 10 hours 40 minutes after the moon's southing (the +moon's age being thirteen days). The tide did not rise more than six +feet, but it wanted three days to the springs. Captain Flinders supposes +the spring tides to rise not less than fifteen feet. The variation of the +compass was 9 degrees 5 minutes East, off Cape Clinton, but at Entrance +Island, according to Captain Flinders, it was 7 degrees 40 minutes East. + +NORTHUMBERLAND ISLANDS. In the direction of North 8 degrees East +(magnetic) and five miles and a half from the 3rd Island, is a low rock +which, at high water, is very little above the surface of the sea; it is +very dangerous because it is in the direct track of vessels steering +towards the Percy Isles. It escaped the observation of Captain Flinders. + +In the direction of South 42 degrees West (magnetic) and ten miles from +the west end of Percy Island Number 1, are some rocks, but I am not aware +whether they are covered: they were seen by Lieutenant Jefferies in 1815. + +Another patch of dry rocks was seen by me from the summit of a hill at +the west end of Percy Island Number 1, whence they bore South 60 degrees +West (magnetic) and were supposed to be distant about eight or nine +miles. The variation of the compass here is between 7 and 8 degrees East. + +The PERCY ISLES have also been described by Captain Flinders; the bay at +the west end of Number 1 is of very steep approach and not safe to anchor +in, excepting during a south-east wind: the anchorage at Number 2, inside +the Pine Islets, is bad, since the bottom is rocky; the ground is, +however, clearer more to the southward; on the whole this anchorage is +not insecure, since there is a safe passage out either on the north or +south sides of the Pine Islets. Wood may be procured with facility, and +water also, unless the streams fail in the dry season. Captain Flinders +was at these islands at the latter end of September, and found it +abundant. The flood-tide comes from the north-east; at the anchorage in +the channel, between the pine islets and Number 2, the flood sets to the +south, and the ebb to the north; the maximum rate was one and a quarter +knot. High water occurred at the latter place two hours and a half before +the moon's passage; but on the following day did not precede it more than +one hour and a half. Captain Flinders mentions high water taking place on +shore at eight hours after the moon's passage. (Vide Flinders volume 2 +page 82.) The tide rose twelve feet when the moon was thirteen days old. +The north-west end of Number 1 is in latitude 21 degrees 44 minutes 50 +seconds, longitude 150 degrees 16 minutes 40 seconds; south-west end of +Number 2 is in latitude 21 degrees 40 minutes 50 seconds, longitude 150 +degrees 13 minutes. + +In passing SHOAL POINT, in latitude 21 degrees 0 minutes 5 seconds, +longitude 149 degrees 7 minutes 40 seconds, Captain Cook's ship got into +shoal water, and at one time had as little as three fathoms (Hawkesworth +volume 3 page 131); and the merchant ship Lady Elliot, in the year 1815, +met with a sandbank extending from the island off the point in a +north-east direction for ten miles, on one part of which she found only +nine feet water. + +The Mermaid passed the point at the distance of three miles, and, when +the island bore South 68 degrees West, distant two miles and a half, had +four and three-quarter fathoms, which was the least water that was found, +but, being then high water, five or six feet, if not more, may be +deducted, to reduce it to the proper low water sounding. There was no +appearance of shoaler water near us, and it is probable that Captain +Cook's and the Lady Elliot's tracks were farther off shore. The variation +of the compass, six miles east of Point Slade, was 7 degrees 11 minutes +East. + +CAPE HILLSBOROUGH is a projection terminating in a bluff point in +latitude 20 degrees 53 minutes 40 seconds, and longitude 149 degrees 0 +minutes 15 seconds: being high land, it may be seen seven or eight +leagues off. The variation here is 6 degrees 30 minutes East. + +The CUMBERLAND ISLES extend between the parallels of 20 and 21 degrees 6 +minutes, and consist generally of elevated, rocky islands; they are all +abundantly wooded, particularly with pines, which grow to a larger size +than at the Percy Isles. We did not land upon any of them; they appeared +to be of bold approach, and not dangerous to navigate amongst; they are +from six to eight hundred feet high, and some of the peaks on the +northern island are much higher. + +k l (latitude 21 degrees 5 minutes 40 seconds, longitude 149 degrees 54 +minutes 25 seconds) is about three-quarters of a mile in diameter; it is +of peaked shape; at three-quarters of a mile off its south-east end there +is a dry rocky lump. + +k (latitude 21 degrees 0 minutes, longitude 149 degrees 52 minutes 30 +seconds) is nearly a mile and a quarter in diameter, and has a +considerable reef stretching for more than a mile and a half off both its +north-west and south-east ends; on the latter is a small rocky islet. + +k 2 (in latitude 20 degrees 58 minutes, longitude 149 degrees 44 minutes +55 seconds) is of hummocky shape; it has also a reef off its south-east +and north-west ends, stretching off at least a mile. On the south-east +reef is a dry rocky islet. + +THREE ROCKS, in latitude 20 degrees 56 1/4 minutes, are small islets of +moderate height. All these islands are surrounded by deep water. The +variation here is about 6 3/4 degrees East. + +k 4, in latitude 20 degrees 53 minutes 10 seconds, and k 4 1/2, in +latitude 20 degrees 58 minutes, and the two sandy islets to the westward +of them, were seen only at a distance. + +l, in latitude 20 degrees 51 minutes 10 seconds, l 1, in latitude 20 +degrees 54 minutes 10 seconds, containing two islands, l 3, in latitude +20 degrees 44 minutes l5 seconds, and l 4, in latitude 20 degrees 45 +minutes 30 seconds, are also high, but we were not nearer to them than +six or seven miles; l 2, in latitude 20 degrees 45 minutes 40 seconds, +longitude 149 degrees 33 minutes 55 seconds, is the island on which +Captain Flinders landed, and describes in volume 2 page 94; he says, +"This little island is of triangular shape, and each side of it is a mile +long; it is surrounded by a coral reef. The time of high water took place +ONE HOUR before the moon's passage, as it had done among the barrier +reefs; from ten to fifteen feet seemed to be the rise by the shore, and +the flood came from the northward." The variation near l 2 is 6 degrees +17 minutes East. + +m is a high, bluff island, the peaked summit of which, in latitude 20 +degrees 46 minutes 35 seconds and longitude 149 degrees 15 minutes 15 +seconds, is eight hundred and seventy-four feet high: there are several +islets off its south-east end, and one off its north-west end. + +SIR JAMES SMITH'S GROUP consists of ten or twelve distinct islands, and +perhaps as many more, for we were not within twelve miles of them. On the +principal island is LINNE PEAK, in latitude 20 degrees 40 minutes 30 +seconds, and longitude 149 degrees 9 minutes 10 seconds; it is seven or +eight hundred feet high. + +SHAW'S PEAK, in latitude 20 degrees 28 minutes, longitude 149 degrees 2 +minutes 55 seconds, is on a larger island than any to the southward; it +is sixteen hundred and one feet high. The group consists of several +islands; it is separated from the next to the northward by a channel five +miles wide. In the centre is PENTECOST ISLAND, a remarkable rock, rising +abruptly out of the sea to the height of eleven hundred and forty feet. +Its latitude is 20 degrees 23 minutes 10 seconds, and longitude 148 +degrees 59 minutes 30 seconds. + +The northern group of the Cumberland Islands are high, and appear to be +better furnished with wood, and more fertile than the southern groups, +particularly on their western sides. + +The principal peak, in latitude 29 degrees 15 minutes 10 seconds and +longitude 148 degrees 55 minutes, is fifteen hundred and eighty-four feet +high, and is situated on the largest island, which is ten miles long, and +from three to nine broad: it has several bays on either side, and off its +south-eastern end are four small islands: beyond them is a range of rocky +islets. The northernmost island of this range is the extremity of the +Cumberland Islands, as well as the north-eastern limit of Whitsunday +Passage; it forms a high, bluff point, in latitude 20 degrees 0 minutes, +and longitude 148 degrees 50 minutes 30 seconds, and is of bold approach: +on the western side of the island are some low islets. + +REPULSE BAY is a deep bight: its shores are low, but the hills rise to a +great height. The extremity of the bay was not distinctly traced, but it +is probable, upon examining it, that a fresh-water rivulet may be found; +and there may be a communication with Edgecumbe Bay. + +The Repulse Isles are of small size; they are surrounded by rocks, which +do not extend more than a quarter of a mile from them. The summit of the +largest island is in latitude 20 degrees 37 minutes 5 seconds, and +longitude 148 degrees 50 minutes 30 seconds. Variation 6 degrees 15 +minutes East. + +Between Capes Conway and Hillsborough the flood-tide comes from the +north-eastward, but is very irregular in the direction of the stream. At +an anchorage off the island near the latter cape the tide rose twelve +feet, but close to the Repulse Isles, the rise was eighteen feet. At the +former place, the moon being full, high water took place at about +three-quarters past ten o'clock; by an observation the next day at the +latter, it was a quarter of an hour later: the maximum rate was about one +and a half knot. + +WHITSUNDAY PASSAGE, formed by the northern group of the Cumberland +Islands, is from three to six miles wide, and, with the exception of a +small patch or rocks within a quarter of a mile from Cape Conway, and a +sandbank (that is probably dry, or nearly so at low water) off Round +Head, is free from danger. The shores appear to be bold to, and the +depth, in the fairway, varies between twenty and thirty fathoms; the +shoal off Round Head stretches in a North-North-West direction, but its +extent was not ascertained. + +In steering through the strait, particularly during the flood-tide, this +shoal should be avoided by keeping well over to the east shore; for the +tide there sets across the strait; it is about a mile and a half from +Round Head, in which space the water is ten and fourteen fathoms deep. + +Between Round Head (in latitude 20 degrees 28 minutes 30 seconds) and +Cape Conway is a bay, where there appeared to be good anchorage out of +the strength of the tides; and to the north of Round Head is another bay, +the bottom of which is an isthmus of about a mile wide, separating it +from an inlet to the westward of Cape Conway. This bay very probably +affords good anchorage out of the strength of the tides. + +CAPE CONWAY, in latitude 20 degrees 32 minutes, and longitude 148 degrees +54 minutes, is the western limit of the south entrance of Whitsunday +Passage; it is a steep point, sloping off to the eastward: immediately on +its north side is a small shingly beach, a few yards behind which there +is a hollow, containing a large quantity of fresh water. At a short +quarter of a mile from the point is a rocky shoal of small size, between +which and the shore there is deep water. + +PINE HEAD, in latitude 20 degrees 23 minutes, and longitude 148 degrees +51 minutes 40 seconds, is the south-east extremity of a small island that +is separated from the main by a passage of about a mile wide, but we did +not ascertain whether it is navigable. The head is a high, bluff point, +clothed with pine-trees: near it the tide runs in strong eddies, and for +that reason it ought not to be approached nearer than half a mile; it +appeared to be bold to. There is a sandy bay on its south west side +affording a good landing-place; the island is clothed with grass, and +thickly wooded: we found no water. The variation was 5 degrees 35 minutes +East. + +PORT MOLLE, so named by Lieutenant Jeffreys, appeared to trend in for +four or five miles: and, probably, to afford a convenient port, as it is +well sheltered from the wind, and is protected from the north-east by a +group of small islands, thickly wooded. Hence the land trends to the +north-west towards Cape Gloucester; the shore was very indistinctly seen, +but seemed to be very much indented, and to possess several bays, if not +rivers; for the land at the back is very high, and must give rise to +several mountain, if not navigable, streams. + +MOUNT DRYANDER, whose summit is in latitude 20 degrees 14 minutes 10 +seconds, and longitude 148 degrees 30 minutes 55 seconds, forms a small +peak, and is visible from Repulse Bay, as well as from the northern +extremity of the Cumberland Islands: it is four thousand five hundred and +sixty-six feet high; and the hills around it are at least from seven +hundred to a thousand feet in height. + +The greater part of the water that collects from these hills probably +empties itself into Repulse and Edgecumbe Bays, or it may be distributed +in lagoons upon the low land that separates them. + +At the back of Point Slade there is a high mountainous range extending +without interruption to the westward of Mount Upstart. In latitude 21 +degrees 1 1/2 minutes, and longitude 148 degrees 36 3/4 minutes is a +high-rounded summit, which is visible at the distance of twenty leagues: +between this range, which is at the distance of from five to seven +leagues from the sea, and the coast, are several ridges gradually +lowering in altitude as they approach the shore. In the neighbourhood of +Repulse Bay, this mountainous range recedes, and has a considerable track +of low land at its base, which is possibly a rich country: from the +height of the hills, it must be well watered. + +CAPE GLOUCESTER. The point of land that Captain Cook took originally for +the cape, is an island of about five miles long and two broad, separated +from the true Cape Gloucester by a strait, a mile and a half wide. The +island is called Gloucester Island; its summit at the north end is in +latitude 19 degrees 57 minutes 24 seconds, longitude 148 degrees 23 +minutes 38 seconds: it is eighteen hundred and seventy-four feet high, +and its summit is a ridge of peaks: its shores are rocky and steep; and, +although the sides of the hills are wooded, yet it has a sombre and heavy +appearance, and, at least, does not look fertile. The cape, in latitude +20 degrees 1 minute 50 seconds, and longitude 148 degrees 26 minutes 15 +seconds, is the extremity of the mountainous range that extends off Mount +Dryander. The variation observed off the island was 7 degrees 11 minutes +East. + +EDGECUMBE BAY is a deep indentation of the land, the shores of which are +very low: its extent was not ascertained, but, by the bearings of some +land at the bottom, it is seventeen miles deep; and its greatest breadth, +at the mouth, is about fourteen miles. It affords excellent shelter; and +between Middle Island (a small rocky islet of a mile and half in extent) +and Gloucester Island there is good anchorage in seven fathoms muddy +bottom, with protection from all winds. We did not examine the bay +farther than passing round Middle Island in six, seven, and eight +fathoms, mud. The western side is formed by low islands, that appeared to +be swampy, but our distance was too great to form the most distant +opinion of them: if the main is not swampy, it must be a rich and +interesting country. + +HOLBORNE ISLAND is a rocky island, visible about seven or eight leagues, +and has three small islets near it: it is in latitude 19 degrees 41 +minutes 5 seconds, and longitude 148 degrees 17 minutes 30 seconds. + +CAPE UPSTART is the extremity of Mount Upstart, which is so high as to be +visible for more than twenty leagues in clear weather: it rises abruptly +from a low projection, and forms a long ridge of mountainous land; the +north-east end of the summit is in latitude 19 degrees 41 minutes 50 +seconds, and longitude 147 degrees 44 minutes 30 seconds. This point +separates two deep bays, both of which were of very inviting appearance, +on account of the high and broken character of the gullies on either side +of Mount Abbott, and it was almost evident that they both terminate in a +river. The hills of Mount Upstart are of primitive form, and were judged +to be composed of granite. The variation observed off the point was 6 +degrees 16 minutes East. + +CAPE BOWLING-GREEN is very low, and projects for a considerable distance +into the sea: its north-east extremity is in latitude 19 degrees 19 +minutes 10 seconds, and longitude 147 degrees 23 minutes East; the +mountainous ranges are at least thirty miles in the rear, and, were it +not for Mounts Upstart and Eliot, both of which are very visible, and +serve as an excellent guide, this part of the coast would be very +dangerous to approach, particularly in the night, when these marks cannot +be seen, when great attention must be paid to the lead. A ship passing +this projection should not come into shoaler water than eleven fathoms; +and, in directing a course from abreast of Mount Upstart, should be +steered sufficiently to the northward to provide against the current +which sets into the bay on the western side of the mount. On approaching +the cape, if the soundings indicate a less depth than eleven fathoms, the +vessel should be hauled more off, because she is then either a parallel +with or to the southward of the cape. + +CAPE CLEVELAND (latitude 19 degrees 10 minutes 10 seconds, longitude 146 +degrees 57 minutes 56 seconds) like Mount Upstart, rises abruptly from a +projection of low land, separating Cleveland Bay from a deep sinuosity +that extends under the base of Mount Eliot, a high range with a rounded +hill and a peak, the latter being at the south extremity of its summit. +Mount Eliot may probably be seen at the distance of twenty-five leagues, +if not farther; between it and the hills of Cape Cleveland the land is +low, and is probably much intersected by water. + +A reef extends from the extremity of Cape Cleveland for four miles to the +eastward, but not at all to the northward, so that, with the point +bearing to the southward of West 1/2 South a ship is safe: there is a +breaker near the extremity of the reef, at about three miles from the +point; to avoid which, keep the south end of Magnetical Island well open +of the north extremity of the cape. + +The peaked summit of MOUNT ELIOT is in latitude 19 degrees 33 minutes 10 +seconds, and longitude 146 degrees 54 minutes 25 seconds. + +CLEVELAND BAY affords good anchorage in all parts, in four, five, and six +fathoms; a considerable flat extends for a mile from the shore on the +western side of the cape, and is left dry at half ebb; it fronts a sandy +beach that commences at a mile and a half to the south of the cape, and +extends to the southward for nearly two miles; over this beach, two or +three streams of fresh water communicate with the sea; they take their +rise from the hills, and probably are seldom dry. + +The most convenient watering-place is near the centre of the beach, a +little to the northward of the highest hills. Wood for fuel is plentiful, +and grows close to the beach, and may be embarked with facility; the best +place is at the north end of the sandy beach, since the boat can be +brought nearer to the shore to protect the wooding party. + +HALIFAX BAY extends from Cape Cleveland to Point Hillock; it has several +islands in it, and is fronted by the PALM ISLANDS, the summit of which is +in latitude 18 degrees 43 minutes 5 seconds, longitude 146 degrees 35 +minutes 15 seconds: this group consists of nineteen islands, one only of +which is of large size, being eight miles long and three wide; it +probably affords all the conveniences of a sheltered anchorage, and a +good supply of wood and water. + +In latitude 18 degrees 49 minutes, nine miles from the shore, and six +miles within the island Number 2, is a coral reef, that shows at low +water: it appeared to be about two miles long; between it and Number 2 is +a wide channel with nine fathoms. The Lady Elliot, merchant ship, in +1815, struck upon a reef in 18 degrees 45 minutes, about four miles from +the shore; of which we saw nothing; we anchored within four miles of its +position, but, at daylight, when we got underweigh, it might have been +covered by the tide. + +In 18 degrees 32 minutes and 146 degrees 41 minutes is a reef, on which +the San Antonio, merchant brig, struck: its position was not correctly +ascertained, as the accident happened in the night. + +POINT HILLOCK is in latitude 18 degrees 25 minutes, and longitude 146 +degrees 20 minutes; it is a low point projecting to the eastward, under +Mount Hinchinbrook. + +CAPE SANDWICH is the north-east extremity of the sandy land that +stretches to the northward from the base of Mount Hinchinbrook, which is +so high as to be visible for eighteen leagues: the mount is topped with a +craggy summit, seven miles in length from north to south. + +There is a reef that extends for nearly a mile and a half off the cape, +having a rocky islet at its extremity. The cape is in latitude 18 degrees +13 minutes 20 seconds, and longitude 146 degrees 16 minutes 40 seconds. +The peak at the north end of Mount Hinchinbrook is in latitude 18 degrees +21 minutes 30 seconds, and longitude 146 degrees 15. + +BROOKE'S ISLANDS lie four miles north from Cape Sandwich; they consist of +three rocky islets, besides some of smaller size; the whole are +surrounded by a coral reef. + +From Cape Sandwich the land extends, low and sandy, in a North-West +direction for five miles to a point, which is terminated by a hill. +Between this and Goold Island there appears to be a navigable strait +leading into Rockingham Bay. + +GOOLD ISLAND, the summit of which, formed by a conical hill covered with +wood, in latitude 18 degrees 9 minutes 35 seconds, and longitude 146 +degrees 9 minutes, is about two miles long: the south-west point of the +island is a long strip of low land, with a sandy beach; at the eastern +end of which there is a run of water; and fuel may be cut close to the +shore. High water takes place at full and change at three quarters past +ten. + +ROCKINGHAM BAY appears to be a spacious harbour. At the bottom there was +an appearance of an opening that may probably communicate with an inlet +on the south side of Point Hillock, and insulate the land of Mount +Hinchinbrook. There is good anchorage in the bay in four and five fathoms +mud, near Goold Island. + +The natives are very friendly here, and will come off and visit the ship. + +FAMILY ISLES consist of seven small rocky islets, covered with a stunted +vegetation. + +DUNK ISLAND is remarkable for having two peaks on its summit; the +south-east summit is in latitude 17 degrees 58 minutes, and longitude 146 +degrees 8 minutes 45 seconds. The variation observed in the offing to the +North-East was 5 degrees 41 minutes East. + +BARNARD ISLES form a group of small rocky islands extending in a +straggling direction for six miles to the south of Double Point. Three +miles to the south of the southernmost island, but nearer to the shore, +is a reef of rocks which dry at low water. + +From DOUBLE POINT (latitude of its summit 17 degrees 39 minutes 50 +seconds) to CAPE GRAFTON, the coast is formed by a succession of sandy +bays and projecting rocky points. In latitude 17 degrees 31 minutes, in +the centre of a sandy bay, is a small opening like a rivulet; and, on the +south side of Point Cooper is another; but neither appeared to be +navigable for boats. Abreast of Frankland's Islands, and near the south +end of a sandy bay of six miles in extent, there is another opening like +a river, that, from the appearance of the land behind, which is low and +of a verdant character, may be of considerable size. The high mountains +to the southward, Bellenden Ker's Range, must give rise to a considerable +stream; and it appears very probable that this may be one of the outlets, +but the most considerable is, perhaps, that which falls into Trinity Bay +round Cape Grafton. + +FRANKLAND'S ISLANDS consist of several low islets one of which is +detached and of higher character than the others, which are very low, and +connected by a reef. The largest island may be seen five or six leagues +off; it is in latitude 17 degrees 7 minutes 45 seconds. + +The land between this and Cape Grafton is high, and towards the north has +several remarkable peaks. The land of Cape Grafton may be readily known, +when seen from the southward, by appearing like three lofty islands; the +outermost is Fitzroy Island, but the others are hills upon the main. The +easternmost of the latter, Cape Grafton, is conspicuous for having two +small peaks, like notches, on the west extremity of its summit; it is +joined to the westernmost by low land, which also separates the latter +from the other hills behind it; and, as this low land is not seen at a +distance, the hills assume the appearance of islands. + +There is good anchorage in the strait between Cape Grafton and Fitzroy +Island, but, with a northerly wind, the better anchorage would be on the +south side of the cape. The former is exposed to all winds between +North-West and North-East. In the former case the anchor may be dropped +in nine fathoms, at a quarter to half a mile from the beach of the +island. The north extremity of Cape Grafton is in latitude 16 degrees 51 +minutes 20 seconds, longitude 145 degrees 53 minutes 5 seconds; the +south-east extreme is in latitude 16 degrees 54 minutes 20 seconds, +longitude 145 degrees 55 minutes 15 seconds. + +FITZROY ISLAND affords both wood and water; it has a peaked summit. It +affords anchorage in the bay on its western side, off a coral beach; the +south-west end of which is in latitude 16 degrees 55 minutes 21 seconds, +and longitude 145 degrees 56 minutes 21 seconds. Nine miles to the +eastward of Fitzroy Island is a small bare sandy island; and, at about +seven miles North-East by East from it, there was an appearance of +extensive shoals. Variation 5 degrees 10 minutes East. + +On the west side of CAPE GRAFTON is a bay, in the centre of which is an +island. The bottom is very shoal, but good anchorage may be had with the +cape bearing South-East Between CAPE GRAFTON and SNAPPER ISLAND, the +centre of which is in latitude 16 degrees 17 minutes 35 seconds, and +longitude 145 degrees 27 minutes 40 seconds, is TRINITY BAY; the shores +of which were not very distinctly seen. At the south side, and about +seven miles within the cape there is an opening that appeared to be +extensive, and the mouth of a considerable stream, trending in between +high ranges of land, in a direction towards Bellenden Ker's Range. + +In latitude 16 degrees 23 1/2 minutes, and longitude 145 degrees 34 +minutes is a group consisting of three coral islands; which, being very +low, are dangerous to pass in the night. + +The offing is said to be strewed with extensive reefs; we saw none beyond +Green Island: those that are laid down on the chart are from Lieutenant +Jeffrey's account.* + +(*Footnote. Much shoal water was seen to the northward of Green Island +from the Tamar's masthead. Roe manuscript.) + +SNAPPER ISLAND lies off the point which forms the northern limit of +Trinity Bay; it is small, and does not supply any water.* + +(*Footnote. Ten or eleven miles South 80 degrees East from Snapper Island +is the north-west end of a shoal, extending to the South 41 degrees East +for sixteen or seventeen miles; the Tamar anchored under it. Roe +manuscript.) + +The land behind CAPE TRIBULATION may be seen at a greater distance than +twenty leagues. It is here that the outer part of the barrier reefs +approach the coast, and there is reason to believe that, in latitude 16 +degrees 17 minutes 35 seconds, longitude 145 degrees 27 minutes 40 +seconds, they are not more than twenty miles from it. The cape has a +hillock at its extremity, and a small rocky islet close to the shore that +renders it conspicuous: it is fourteen miles beyond Snapper Island. The +shore appears to be bold to: at three miles off we had sixteen fathoms. + +Ten miles further to the northward is BLOMFIELD'S RIVULET in Weary Bay: +it is blocked up by a rocky bar, having only four feet water over it; the +anchorage off it is too much exposed to be safe. The river runs up for +four or five miles, having soundings within it from three to four +fathoms, its entrance is in 15 degrees 55 minutes 50 seconds. + +The coast then extends to the north to Endeavour River, and forms a few +inconsiderable sinuosities; it is backed by high land, particularly +abreast of the Hope Islands. These islands open of each other in a North +39 degrees East direction, and appear to be connected by a shoal; it is +however very likely that a narrow passage may exist between them, but +certainly not safe to sail through. + +Here the number of the coral reefs begin to increase, and great attention +must be paid in navigating amongst them; but, with a careful look out +from the masthead, and a quick leadsman in the chains, no danger need be +apprehended. + +Between reef a and the shoal off the south-west Hope Island there is a +passage two miles wide, with twelve fathoms: a is about half a mile in +diameter, with a few rocks above water; its centre is in 15 degrees 43 +minutes 20 seconds, two miles from the shore, and three miles North 55 +degrees West from the south west Hope. + +b is about a mile and a quarter long, and has a dry rock at its north +end, the latitude of which is 15 degrees 39 minutes 20 seconds: it is +divided from Endeavour Reef by a channel of nearly a mile wide, and +fifteen fathoms deep: abreast of the south end of b, on the western edge +of Endeavour Reef, there is a dry rock, in latitude 15 degrees 39 minutes +55 seconds. + +ENDEAVOUR REEF is nine miles long; it lies in a North-West direction; the +north end, in 15 degrees 39 minutes South, bears due from the North-east +Hope. + +c is covered, and not quite half a mile in length; its latitude is 15 +degrees 32 minutes: it lies four miles from the shore. + +d is rather larger, and has some dry rocks on its north end, in latitude +15 degrees 29 minutes 30 seconds. Between c and d and the shore the +passage is from three to four miles wide, and in mid-channel the depth is +seven and eight fathoms. + +On the south side of Point Monkhouse there is a bay having a small +opening at the bottom, but not deep enough for ships: it was this bay +that Captain Cook first examined in search of a place to repair his ship. + +On steering along the shore between Point Monkhouse and the entrance of +Endeavour River, the bottom is of sand and of irregular depth. A spit of +sand was passed over with only two and a half fathoms on it when the +summit of Mount Cook bore South 66 degrees West (magnetic) and the outer +extreme of Point Monkhouse South 18 degrees West (magnetic). One mile off +shore the shoal soundings continued with two and a half fathoms until it +bore South 59 degrees West (magnetic) when the depth was three, and three +and a half fathoms. + +ENDEAVOUR RIVER. The entrance of this river, in latitude 15 degrees 27 +minutes 4 seconds, and longitude 145 degrees 10 minutes 49 seconds,* +forms a very good port for small vessels; and, in a case of distress, +might be useful for large ships, as it proved to our celebrated navigator +Captain Cook, who, it is well known, repaired his ship there after having +laid twenty-three hours upon a coral reef. + +(*Footnote. The situation of the observatory at Endeavour River was found +by lunar distances, taken during my visits to that place in 1819 and +1820, as follows: + +Latitude by meridional altitudes of the sun, taken in the artificial +horizon, being the mean of twenty-seven observations: 15 degrees 27 +minutes 4 seconds. + +Longitude by twenty-five set of distances (sun West of first quarter of +the moon) containing one hundred and seventeen sights, with the sextant: +144 degrees 52 minutes 16 seconds. + +Longitude by thirty set of distances (sun East of first quarter of the +moon) containing one hundred and fifty sights, with the sextant: 145 +degrees 29 minutes 23 seconds. + +Mean, of fifty-five sets: 145 degrees 10 minutes 49 seconds.) + +The entrance is formed on the south side by a steep hill, covered with +trees growing to the edge of its rocky shore. The north side of the +entrance is a low sandy beach of two miles and a quarter in length: at +its north end a range of hills rises abruptly, and extends for six or +seven miles, when it again suddenly terminates, and is separated from the +rocky projection of Cape Bedford by a low plain of sand. + +The entrance of Endeavour River is defended by a bar, on which, at high +water, there is about fourteen feet; but, at low water, not more than ten +feet: the channel over the bar is close to the south side, for the +sandbank extends from the low sandy north shore to within one hundred and +forty yards of the south shore, and at three quarters ebb (spring tides) +is dry. + +In steering in for the mouth, upon bringing Point Monkhouse in a line +with Point a (the north point of the bay under Mount Cook) you will be in +three fathoms; steer in until the south extremity of the low north sandy +point is opened of the trend round Point c, when you may haul a little +more in, and when point d (which is a point where the mangroves commence) +bears South 33 degrees West (magnetic) steer directly for it; this will +carry you over the deepest part or the bar, which stretches off from +point c in a North 75 degrees West (magnetic) direction; another mark is +to keep the trend beyond d just in sight, but not open, or you will be +too near the spit: the best way is, having opened it, haul in a little to +the southward, and shut it in again: you may pass within ten yards of +point d; and the best anchorage is just within it; the vessel may be +secured head and stern to trees on the beach, with bow and stern anchors +to steady her. No vessel of a greater draught than twelve feet should +enter the harbour; and this vessel may even moor in four fathoms within +her own length of the shore, with the outer trend just shut in by the +mangrove point a. The watering-place is a stream that empties itself into +the port through the mangroves, about two hundred yards to the south: and +if this should fail, there is a good stream at the north end of the long +north sandy beach. The latter, although very high coloured, is of +wholesome quality; but in bad weather is inconvenient to be procured on +account of the surf. Water for common purposes of cooking may be had on a +sandy beach a little without the entrance, but it is of a mineral +quality, and of brackish taste. It is high water at full and change at +eight o'clock, and the tide rises from five to ten feet. The variation of +the observatory was 5 degrees 14 minutes East. + +CAPE BEDFORD (latitude 15 degrees 16 minutes 19 seconds, longitude 145 +degrees 17 minutes 19 seconds) is high, and forms a steep slope to the +sea: it appeared to be bold to.* Between it and Cape Flattery is a bay +backed by low land, about five miles deep; but it is exposed to the wind, +unless there is anchorage under the north-west end of Cape Bedford. + +(*Footnote. Shoal water extends for nearly a mile round Cape Bedford. Roe +manuscript.) + +CAPE FLATTERY is eighteen miles north of Cape Bedford: its extremity is +high and rocky, and forms two distinct hills. The summit of the cape is +in latitude 14 degrees 52 minutes 30 seconds, and longitude 145 degrees +16 minutes 10 seconds.* + +(*Footnote. There are some dangerous shoals to the eastward of Point +Lookout, and to the northward of Cape Flattery, about two miles apart +from each other, situated in what was considered to be the fair channel. +Roe manuscript.) + +Eleven miles beyond the cape, in a North 45 degrees West direction, is +POINT LOOKOUT, forming a peaked hill at the extremity of a low sandy +projection, whence the land trends West by North 1/2 North for twelve +leagues to Cape Bowen. + +e, a reef nearly three miles long and one broad: its north end is twelve +miles nearly due East from the entrance of Endeavour River, in latitude +15 degrees 26 minutes 50 seconds, longitude 145 degrees 23 minutes 30 +seconds. + +TURTLE REEF was visited by Mr. Bedwell, it is covered at high water, +excepting a small spot of sand, about the size of the boat, at its north +end in latitude 15 degrees 23 minutes, longitude 145 degrees 22 minutes +50 seconds: its interior is occupied, like most others, by a shoal +lagoon; it is entirely of coral, and has abundance of shellfish; it was +here that Captain Cook procured turtle during his stay at Endeavour +River, from the entrance of which it bears North 75 degrees East, and is +distant eleven miles; its south end is separated from e by a channel of a +mile wide. + +THREE ISLES, in latitude 15 degrees 7 minutes 30 seconds, is a group of +low coral islets covered with shrubs, and encircled by a reef, that is +not quite two miles in diameter. + +Two miles and three quarters to the North-West is a low wooded island, +about a mile long, also surrounded by a reef; and four miles to the +southward of it is a rocky islet. + +REEF f is about four or five miles East-South-East from Three Isles; it +appeared to be about three miles long: its western extreme is in latitude +15 degrees 10 minutes, and in longitude 145 degrees 26 minutes. + +TWO ISLES are also low and wooded, and surrounded by a reef: the largest +islet is in latitude 15 degrees 1 minute 20 seconds, and longitude 145 +degrees 22 minutes 10 seconds. + +REEF g appeared to be about a mile broad and two miles and a half long: +its south end is in latitude 15 degrees 0 minutes 15 seconds, longitude +145 degrees 26 minutes 45 seconds. + +REEF h is an extensive reef, having high breakers on its outer edge: it +is more than four miles long, and separated from the north end of g by a +channel a mile wide. + +REEF i has several detached reefs about it, on the northernmost are two +rocky islands, and to the southward, on a detached shoal, there is a bare +sandy islet that is perhaps occasionally covered by the tide: its +south-westernmost extremity and the summit of Lizard Island are in the +line of bearing of North 5 degrees West (magnetic) its latitude is 14 +degrees 53 minutes 40 seconds. + +REEF k, in latitude 14 degrees 47 minutes, has a dry sand upon it: its +sub-marine extent was not ascertained. + +REEF l; the position of this reef is rather uncertain, near its western +side is a dry key in latitude 14 degrees 47 minutes 30 seconds. + +m is probably unconnected with the shoal off the south end of Eagle +Island. In Captain Cook's rough chart there is twelve fathoms marked +between two shoals which must mean the above. + +EAGLE ISLAND is low and wooded, and situated at the north end of a +considerable shoal; its latitude is 14 degrees 42 minutes 20 seconds, and +longitude 145 degrees 18 minutes 30 seconds. + +DIRECTION ISLANDS are two high rocky islands, so called by Captain Cook +to direct ships to the opening in the reefs, through which he passed out +to sea; they are high and of conical shape, and might be seen more than +five or six leagues off was it not for the hazy weather that always +exists in the neighbourhood of the reefs; the northernmost is in latitude +14 degrees 44 minutes 50 seconds, longitude 145 degrees 26 minutes 25 +seconds: the southernmost is in latitude 14 degrees 50 minutes, longitude +145 degrees 26 minutes 45 seconds. + +LIZARD ISLAND, about three miles long, is remarkable for its peaked +summit, the latitude of which is 14 degrees 40 minutes 20 seconds, and +longitude 145 degrees 23 minutes: on its south side is an extensive reef +encompassing three islets, of which two are high and rocky: the best +anchorage is on its western side under the summit; with the high +northernmost of the Direction Islands in sight over the low land, bearing +about South-East by compass: the depth is six and seven fathoms sandy +bottom. The variation here is 5 degrees 2 minutes East. + +TURTLE GROUP is four miles to the north of Point Lookout; the islets are +encircled by a horse-shoe shaped coral reef, and consist of six islands, +all low and bushy. These islands are not laid down with sufficient +accuracy as to their relative positions. + +n is a low wooded island about eleven miles west from Lizard Island; no +reef was seen to project from it; it is in the meridian of the +observatory of Endeavour River; and in latitude 14 degrees 40 minutes. + +o is a small coral reef; it lies a mile and a half North 64 degrees West +from the north end of n. + +p is a coral reef, about a mile in extent, separated from o by a channel +of a mile wide. + +q, a reef, on which are two low wooded isles, apparently connected with a +shoal extending from Point Lookout along the shore to the +West-North-West; the isles are seven miles North 64 degrees West from +Point Lookout. + +COLES ISLANDS consist of four small bushy islets from a quarter to half a +mile in extent; they are from four to six miles North-East from Point +Murdoch. This group appeared to be merely the several dry parts of the +shoal that extends from Point Lookout to Noble Island; between them and +the latter island, are two patches of dry sandy keys, but it is probable +that they may be covered by the tide. The continuation of the shoal +between the islands and Point Lookout was not clearly ascertained. + +At POINT MURDOCH, which has a peaked hill at its extremity, the hills +again approach the coast; at Cape Bowen they project into the sea, and +separate two bays, in each of which there is possibly a rivulet; that to +the eastward of the cape trends in and forms a deep bight. On the western +side of the hills of Cape Bowen there is a track of low land, separating +them from another rocky range. The summit of the hill at Point Murdoch is +in latitude 14 degrees 40 minutes, and longitude 144 degrees 46 minutes. + +HOWICK'S GROUP consists of ten or eleven islands, of which Number 1, +remarkable for a hillock at its south-east end, is in latitude 14 degrees +32 minutes 40 seconds, and longitude 144 degrees 55 minutes 20 seconds; +it is nearly three miles long; the rest are all less than half a mile in +extent, excepting the westernmost, Number 6, which is nearly a mile and a +half in diameter. + +The passage between 2 and 3 is safe, and has seven and eight fathoms: the +north-west side of 3 is of rocky approach, but the opposite side of the +strait is bold to; the anchorage is tolerably good. The Mermaid drove, +but it was not considered to be caused by the nature of the bottom, which +is of soft sand, and free from rocks. + +The channel between 1 and 2 appeared to be very rocky, and shoal: between +1 and the reef r there is probably a clear channel of about a mile wide: +the north-east end of 1 has a reef which extends off it for half a mile. + +(*Footnote. Many shoals, partly dry, occupy the space to the northward +and eastward of Howick's Group. Roe manuscript.) + +All the islands are low and wooded, and surrounded by a coral reef of +small extent. + +4 has a small islet off its west end. + +5, 8, and 9 did not appear to have any reefs projecting from them. 7 is +probably two islands, with a reef extending for half a mile on its +western side. 6 is of larger size than the generality of the low islands +hereabout, Number 1 excepted: its centre is in latitude 14 degrees 28 +minutes, and longitude 144 degrees 45 minutes. The position of Number 10 +was not correctly ascertained. + +The peak of CAPE BOWEN is in latitude 14 degrees 34 minutes, and +longitude 144 degrees 35 minutes 40 seconds. + +NOBLE ISLAND is a rock, having a sandy, or a coral beach at its +north-west end; although small it is very conspicuous; and, when first +seen from the southward, has the appearance of a rock with a double +rounded top. + +The REEFS s, t, and u are unconnected; the north end of s, lying six +miles and a half due east from Point Barrow, was dry for a considerable +extent; t, one mile to the north, was covered; but there is a dry sandy +key on u, bearing from Point Barrow, North 32 degrees East, six miles: +some rocks showed themselves above the water off its south end. + +v and w may possibly be connected; the former was noticed to extend for +three miles, and the latter for nearly ten miles; there was, however, a +space of three miles between them, where a channel may possibly exist. +The channels between t and u, and between v and w, appeared to be clear +and deep. + +The REEFS x, y, and Z, are probably parts of the barrier reefs, for the +sea was breaking very heavily upon their outer edge; there were, however, +considerable spaces where no breakers appeared, some of which, being +three or four miles wide, may possibly be as many outlets to sea. + +NINIAN BAY is a bight to the west of Point Barrow;* it is about three +miles deep, and has a small opening at the bottom; in crossing it we had +not more water than four fathoms, and within our course it appeared to be +very shoal: there is doubtless a channel leading to the opening; but, to +the name of harbour or port, it has not the slightest pretension: it was +named Port Ninian by Lieutenant Jeffreys: off the north end of Point +Barrow are two rocky islands. + +(*Footnote. Off Point Barrow, the shoals lie from half to one mile nearer +the shore, than they are laid down; and one mile and three quarters North +55 degrees East from the point are two small patches of coral, under +water; they bear North-East and South-West from each other and are +probably one tenth of a mile apart. Roe manuscript.) + +Between Ninian Bay and Cape Melville the coast is high and rocky, but +appeared to be fronted by a reef, which in some places extends for a mile +and a half from the shore; in this interval there are two or three sandy +beaches, but I doubt the practicability of landing upon them in a boat. +The summit and sides of the hills that form the promontory, of which Cape +Melville is the extreme, are of most remarkable appearance, being covered +with heaps of rounded stones of very large size (volume 1.) + +CAPE MELVILLE, sloping off into the sea to the north, terminates this +remarkable promontory in latitude 14 degrees 9 minutes 30 seconds, and +longitude 144 degrees 24 minutes 50 seconds: the coast trends round it to +the South-South-West and South-West, and forms Bathurst Bay, which is +nine miles and a half deep, and thirteen wide, the western side being +formed by Flinders' Group. A reef extends for more than two miles off +Cape Melville in a North West by North direction, on which some rounded +stones, similar to those upon the land, are heaped up above the sea: +there is also one of these heaps at the extremity of the reef, outside, +and within a quarter of a mile of which we had fourteen fathoms water: +there are two other similar heaps within the outer pile, and between them +there are possibly clear passages, but they should not be attempted +without great caution. It was remarked that the breeze always freshened +on passing round this cape. + +PIPON ISLANDS, two small islets, of which the easternmost is the largest, +are in latitude 14 degrees 6 minutes 40 seconds, longitude 144 degrees 26 +minutes 5 seconds; they are surrounded by a reef, lying two miles and a +half from the cape; between them and the reef that extends from the cape, +there is a safe and deep passage of more than a mile wide. + +The south-east side of Bathurst Bay is shoal. At the bottom are two +openings, with some projecting land between them, at the extremity of +which there is a peak; these openings are doubtless rivulets of +considerable size, and take their rise from the high land at the back of +Cape Bowen. + +FLINDERS' GROUP forms the west head of Bathurst Bay; they are high and +rocky, and consist of four islands, two of which are three miles long. +The peak of the largest island, in latitude 14 degrees 11 minutes 5 +seconds, and longitude 144 degrees 12 minutes 5 seconds, is visible from +a distance of twelve or thirteen leagues; and the higher parts of the +islands may be seen generally at seven or eight leagues. + +On the eastern side of the northernmost island there is a bay fronted by +a coral reef, but it is too exposed to the prevailing winds to be safe. +It is here that the Frederick (merchant ship) was wrecked in 1818. + +CAPE FLINDERS, in latitude 14 degrees 8 minutes, longitude 144 degrees 10 +minutes 20 seconds, is the north extremity of the island; it may be +passed close to with twelve fathoms: the best anchorage is under the +flat-topped hill, at a quarter of a mile from the shore, in ten fathoms +mud. The variation is 5 degrees 20 minutes East. It is high water at full +and change at a quarter past nine. + +In the offing is a low wooded island of more than a mile in diameter. + +CLACK'S ISLAND is a high rock, situated at the south-east end of reef b, +in latitude 14 degrees 4 minutes 45 seconds, and longitude 144 degrees 11 +minutes 45 seconds, and, being a bare black rock, with no apparent +vegetation, is a conspicuous object: there is another rock on its +north-east end. (See above.) The reef is of circular shape, and three +miles in diameter. + +The shoal marked a was not seen by us. H.M. sloop Satellite struck upon +it in June, 1822, on her passage to India. The following marks for it +were obligingly communicated to me by Captain M.J. Currie, of H.M. sloop +Satellite, who sent a boat to examine it upon her second voyage the +following year: + +"In crossing the northern part of Bathurst Bay, and nearly in +mid-channel, between Cape Flinders and the low wooded island, there is a +small patch of sunken rocks, lying north and south, not more than a +cable's length in extent, the least water being one fathom. The Satellite +grounded on them in two fathoms, in June, 1822. I sent a boat to examine +this shoal in making the same passage in August, 1823, and found it to be +under the following bearings (by compass): namely, Cape Flinders, +South-West by West 3/4 West; the high peak on the south-east part of +Flinders' Group, South 1/4 West; the highest of Clack's Islands, +North-West 1/2 West, and Cape Melville East 1/2 South. It is a dangerous +shoal in running for Cape Flinders, but may be easily avoided by steering +near the low wooded island, to the north-east of the cape, or by keeping +the shore of Flinders' Group on board, which is perhaps preferable. The +variation is 5 degrees 40 minutes East."* + +(*Footnote. The shoal is in a line with, and half way between, the +flat-topped hill on the north island of Flinders' Group, and the centre +of the low wooded island, and is nearly joined to some shoal-water that +extends for two miles from the latter island. Roe manuscript.) + +PRINCESS CHARLOTTE'S BAY is an extensive bight in the coast, twenty-two +miles deep, and thirty-one broad; its shores are low, and at the bottom +in latitude 14 degrees 29 minutes there is a mangrove opening. + +JANE'S TABLE LAND, in latitude 14 degrees 29 minutes 15 seconds and +longitude 144 degrees 4 minutes 45 seconds, is a remarkable flat-topped +hill at the bottom of the bay, rising abruptly from the surrounding low +land: it is about five miles from the coast; its summit, by the angle it +subtended, is about a mile in length. Excepting this hill, no other high +land was seen at the bottom of the bay. + +On the western side the land rises to a moderate height, and forms a bank +of about ten miles in extent, but this was not visible for more than +three or four leagues. To the north of this no part of the interior can +be seen until in latitude 13 degrees 55 minutes, when the south end of a +ridge of hills commences at about seven miles behind the beach, which it +gradually approaches until it reaches the coast in 13 degrees 35 minutes, +and is terminated by a round hill; the coast then extends with a low +sandy beach for eleven miles to Cape Sidmouth. + +c is a covered reef of coral, extending North-East by East and South-West +by West for seventeen miles: its south-west end bears North 75 degrees +West, twelve miles and a half, from Cape Flinders. + +d, e, and f, are three coral banks, having dry sandy keys on each; they +are of circular shape, and from a mile to a third of a mile in diameter: +d is the largest, and bears nearly due-west from Cape Flinders, from +which it is distant twelve miles and a half. + +g and h are two coral reefs; but it was not ascertained whether they are +connected to each other or not: they may also be joined to c, and indeed +this supposition is very likely to be correct, for we found the water +quite smooth, and little or no set of tide on passing them. On the +southwest extremity of g, in latitude 14 degrees 1 minute 20 seconds, +longitude 143 degrees 50 minutes, there is a dry sandy key, as there is +also upon h, but on the latter there are also rocks, and the sand is dry +for four or five miles along its north-west side: the south-west end of h +is in latitude 13 degrees 59 minutes, longitude 143 degrees 49 minutes. + +i is a circular coral reef, of a mile and a quarter in diameter, and has +a dry sandy key at its north-west end; it is two miles North-North-West +from the south-west end of h. + +k is a small reef with a sandy key upon it, four miles to the east of +Pelican Island. + +PELICAN ISLAND is on the north-west side of a reef of more than a mile +and a half long: it is very small, but remarkable for having two clumps +of trees, which at a distance give it the appearance of being two small +islets: it is low, and, like the other islands of its character, may be +seen at ten miles from the deck: its latitude is 13 degrees 54 minutes 45 +seconds, and longitude 143 degrees 46 minutes. (See volume 1.) + +l is a long narrow coral reef, extending in a North-North-East direction: +it is thirteen miles in extent, but generally not more than one-third of +a mile wide: its greatest width is not more than a mile and a half: its +south-west end is five miles and three-quarters north from Pelican +Island. + +m is an extensive coral reef, extending for fifteen miles in North East +by North direction, parallel with l, from which it is separated by a +channel of from one to two miles wide. At its south-west end, where there +is an extensive dry sandy key, and some dry rocks, it is two miles wide: +but towards its northern end it tapers away to the breadth of a quarter +of a mile. The south trend of its south-west end lies seven miles North +44 degrees West from Pelican Island, and four miles from Island 2 of +Claremont Isles. + +n is another extensive reef, which may possibly be connected with m. At +its westernmost end, about four miles North by East 1/2 East from the +west end of m., is a dry sand of small extent. + +It was considered probable that there was a safe passage between the +reefs l and m. We steered so far as to see the termination of the latter, +upon which the sea was breaking, which afforded a proof of its not being +connected with the former, which also the dark colour of the water +sufficiently indicated. + +The Mermaid was nearly lost in attempting to cross the latter reef. +(Volume 1.) + +CLAREMONT ISLES consist of five small islets, numbered from 1 to 5; they +are of coral formation, and are covered with small brushwood; they are +from six to seven miles apart, excepting 4 and 5, which are separated by +a channel only a mile and a half wide: off the east and south-east end of +5, a coral reef extends for a mile and a half to the eastward, having two +dry rocks on its north-east end. + +COLUMN 1: CLAREMONT ISLE. +COLUMN 2: LATITUDE IN DEGREES, MINUTES, SECONDS. +COLUMN 3: LONGITUDE IN DEGREES, MINUTES, SECONDS. + +Number 1 : 13 56 20 : 143 40 30. + +Number 2 : 13 51 30 : 143 37 30. + +Number 3 : 13 46 45 : 143 33 20. + +Number 4 : 13 40 00 : 143 36 20. + +Reef o extends in an east and west direction for a mile and a half, and +at a mile farther there is another reef, that may be connected to it; o +has a dry sand near its western extremity, in latitude 13 degrees 34 +minutes, and longitude 143 degrees 38 minutes 45 seconds. + +Islet 6, in latitude 13 degrees 29 minutes, longitude 143 degrees 38 +minutes 26 seconds, is a very small, low, woody islet, with a reef +extending for three-quarters of a mile off its north and south ends. + +A reef lies two miles and one-third North 72 1/2 degrees West from islet +6, and South 59 degrees East from the summit of Cape Sidmouth; this reef +is not more than a quarter of a mile in extent, and has a rock in its +centre, that is uncovered at half tide; it is a brown looking shoal, and +therefore of dangerous approach. + +Off ROUND HILL there is a sandbank covered by the sea; it lies about two +miles from the shore, and about East-North-East from Round Hill summit. + +q is a small, brown, rocky shoal, that is not visible until close to it; +it bears South 60 degrees East, four miles from the extremity of Cape +Sidmouth. + +CAPE SIDMOUTH is rather an elevated point, having higher land behind it; +and at about nine miles in the interior, to the West-North-West, there is +a rounded summit: at the extremity of the cape there are two remarkable +lumps on the land, in latitude 13 degrees 24 minutes 20 seconds, and +longitude 143 degrees 30 minutes. The cape is fronted by several rocky +shoals, and ought not to be approached within four miles. + +r is a sandbank, on which we had two and a half fathoms; but from the +nature of the other neighbouring reefs, s and t, it is perhaps rocky +also, and may be connected with them. It lies four miles and a quarter +North 32 degrees East from Cape Sidmouth, and West 1/2 North from islet +7. + +6 1/2 and 7 are two bare sandy islets, situated at the north ends of +reefs extending in a North-North-West direction; the reef off the islet 6 +1/2 is four miles and a half in length, and that off 7 is two miles and a +half long: 6 1/2 is in latitude 13 degrees 23 minutes 20 seconds, +longitude 143 degrees 39 minutes 30 seconds; 7, in latitude 13 degrees 21 +minutes 20 seconds, and longitude 143 degrees 36 minutes 10 seconds. + +8 and 9 are two low, woody islets of about a mile and a quarter in +diameter. Some shoal marks on the water were observed opposite these +islands, but their existence was not ascertained. Both the islets are +surrounded by coral reefs, of small extent. + +NIGHT ISLAND, its north end in latitude 13 degrees 13 minutes 8 seconds, +and longitude 143 degrees 28 minutes 40 seconds, is a low woody island, +two miles long, but not more than half a mile wide; it is surrounded by a +coral reef, that does not extend more than a quarter of a mile from its +northern end. On the south side, and within it, the space seemed to be +much occupied by reefs, but they were not distinctly made out, on account +of the thickness of the weather. There was also the appearance of a +covered shoal, bearing North 55 degrees East from the north end of the +island, distant four miles.* + +(*Footnote. Observed many shoals to the North-West of Night Island; one +bore East-North-East, two miles and a half from its north point; we saw +much shoal water to seaward. Roe manuscript.) + +u and w are two reefs; the former, which was dry when we passed, lies six +miles North 18 degrees West from the north end of Night Island; there is +also a small rock detached from it, which is not visible until close to +it. + +v is a covered coral reef, of about a mile and a quarter in extent; its +centre is in 13 degrees 1 minute latitude. + +SHERRARD'S ISLETS are low and bushy, and surrounded by a rocky shoal +extending for a mile to the South-East; the south-westernmost is in 12 +degrees 58 minutes 10 seconds latitude, and 143 degrees 30 minutes 15 +seconds longitude. + +10 is a low wooded islet, in latitude 12 degrees 53 minutes 10 seconds, +on a reef of small extent; abreast of it is a rocky islet, lying about a +mile and a half south from CAPE DIRECTION; off its east end is a smaller +rock. + +The coast between Cape Sidmouth and Cape Direction is rather high, and +the shore is formed by a sandy beach. Ten miles North-West from the +former cape is an opening in the hills; the high land then continues to +the northward to Cape Direction, which has a peak near its extremity, +close off which are two small rocks, but the depth at a mile and a half +off is thirteen fathoms. The peak is in latitude 12 degrees 51 minutes 55 +seconds, and longitude 143 degrees 26 minutes 10 seconds.* + +(*Footnote. Shoal water extends for about six miles round the north side +of Cape Direction. Roe manuscript.) + +x; the position of this reef was not precisely ascertained; it appeared +to be about two miles to the North-North-West of the extremity of the +cape. + +y and z are two covered reefs, of not more than a mile in extent; they +are separated from each other by a channel a mile wide; y is four miles +and a half North 51 degrees East from Cape Direction. + +a and b are also covered reefs; the former is a mile and a quarter in +length; the latter extends for two miles in an east direction, and is a +mile broad: a bears nearly east, nine miles, from a peaked hill on the +shore, and is five miles to the south of Cape Weymouth. + +LLOYD'S BAY was not examined; it appeared to have a considerable opening +at its south-west end, where the land was very low; the hilly country to +the south of Cape Direction also ceases, and there is a considerable +space of low land between them and the south end of Cape Weymouth range. + +CAPE WEYMOUTH is an elevated point, sloping off from a high summit; its +extreme is in latitude 12 degrees 37 minutes 15 seconds, and longitude +143 degrees 20 minutes 35 seconds. RESTORATION ISLAND, off the cape, is +high, and of conical shape; about a mile East-South-East from it is a +small rocky islet. The coast then extends towards Bolt Head, and forms +several sinuosities, one of which is WEYMOUTH BAY of Captain Cook; the +shores of the bay were not well examined.* + +(*Footnote. There is a dry sand four or five miles North-West from Cape +Weymouth. Roe manuscript.) + +FAIR CAPE, so named by Lieutenant Bligh, is a projection of high land, in +latitude 12 degrees 25 minutes, longitude 143 degrees 11 minutes 15 +seconds: it has a reef off it according to Lieutenant Jeffrey's account, +but its situation does not appear to have been correctly ascertained: we +did not see it. + +BOLT HEAD is the north-west end of the high land at the south end of +TEMPLE BAY. It is here that the high land terminates; the coast to the +northward being very low and sandy; with the exception of CAPE GRENVILLE, +which is the rocky projection that forms the north extremity of Temple +Bay. A little to the south of the cape is INDIAN BAY of Lieutenant Bligh. +The latitude of Cape Grenville's east trend is 11 degrees 57 minutes 30 +seconds, its longitude 143 degrees 8 minutes. + +c is a coral reef, with a dry sandy key at its northern end, in latitude +12 degrees 35 minutes 20 seconds, longitude 143 degrees 25 minutes 15 +seconds; it is about two miles long. + +d, a small oval-shaped reef in the channel between c and e: it is +covered, and has perhaps twelve feet water over it. + +e is an extensive coral reef, fourteen miles long, commencing in latitude +12 degrees 32 1/2 minutes, and extending to 12 degrees 24 minutes; and in +longitude 143 degrees 16 minutes: it is entirely covered, except a few +dry rocks at its north-west end: the south-eastern extremity of the reef +is perhaps three or four miles wide, but its eastern termination was not +clearly distinguished. + +f is a small reef, about three miles South-West from QUOIN ISLAND, which +is a small wedge-shaped rock: it is in the neighbourhood of this reef +that the merchant ship, Morning Star, was lost. Quoin Island is in +latitude 12 degrees 24 minutes, and longitude 143 degrees 23 minutes 50 +seconds. + +g is a coral reef, ten miles long, and from one to two broad; having a +dry rock upon it (in latitude 12 degrees 18 minutes 20 seconds, and +longitude 143 degrees 14 minutes 35 seconds) about three miles from its +north end. + +FORBES' ISLANDS are high and rocky, but appeared to be clothed with +vegetation; the group occupies a space of about two miles. The summit of +Forbes' Island is in latitude 12 degrees 16 minutes 35 seconds, and +longitude 143 degrees 18 minutes 50 seconds. + +h, a coral reef, with some dry rocks near its north end, is about one +mile long, and separated from i by a narrow pass. The south end of h +bears from the summit of Forbes' Island West 1/4 South seven miles. + +i and k, coral reefs, lying North-West, having a very narrow channel +between them; the former is covered, but the latter has a dry sandy key +at its north-west end, in latitude 12 degrees 12 minutes 20 seconds, and +longitude 143 degrees 10 minutes 5 seconds. + +PIPER'S ISLETS are four low bushy islets upon two circular reefs, with a +passage separating them of a quarter of a mile wide; the reefs have each +two islets upon them, and a dry rocky key round their western edge: the +centre of the narrowest part of the channel between them is twelve and a +half fathoms deep, but abreast the south end of the south-easternmost +shoal there is ten and a half fathoms. + +l, a circular coral reef, a mile and a half in diameter, with a dry rock +at its east end, in latitude 12 degrees 9 minutes 5 seconds, and +longitude 143 degrees 11 minutes. + +YOUNG ISLAND, a small islet on a coral reef of about half a mile in +extent, in latitude 12 degrees 6 minutes 50 seconds, and longitude 143 +degrees 7 minutes. (See volume 1.) + +m, a coral reef, about two and a half miles long, having a dry rock at +its north end; it bears South 40 degrees West, three miles from the +summit of Haggerston's Island. + +n, an extensive, irregular-shaped, coral reef, seven miles long, and from +one to four broad; it is separated from o by a narrow tortuous channel, +but not safe to pass through: both n and o are covered. There is a safe +passage between these reefs and Haggerston's Island, of a mile and a half +wide; but there is a small reef detached from the north-west end of n, +which should be avoided, although there is probably sufficient depth of +water over it for any ship: it was seen from the summit of the island, +from whence another coral patch was observed at about one mile to the +westward, of which we saw no signs. + +p is a small reef, of about a mile and a quarter in extent; it was seen +from the summit of Haggerston's Island, as was also another reef, seven +miles South by East from it: the positions of these reefs are doubtful. + +HAGGERSTON'S ISLAND is high and rocky; the summit is in latitude 12 +degrees 1 minute 40 seconds, and longitude 143 degrees 12 minutes; it is +situated at the South-South-West extremity of a coral reef, of nearly two +miles in length; its northern side is furnished with some trees and a +sandy beach. At the north end of the reef are two dry patches of sand and +rocks. It is separated from the islands of Sir Everard Home's Group by a +channel nearly three miles wide, quite free from danger; but in passing +through it, the tide or current sets to the North-North-West, round the +reef off Haggerston's Island. (See volume 1.) + +SIR EVERARD HOME'S GROUP consists of six islands: the two +south-westernmost are rocky, and one of them has two peaks upon it, +which, from the southward, have the appearance of being upon the +extremity of Cape Grenville: the south-easternmost has a hillock, or +clump of trees, at its south-east extremity, in latitude 11 degrees 57 +minutes 40 seconds, and longitude 143 degrees 11 minutes. The outer part +of this group is bold to, and the islands may be approached, but the +space within them appeared to be rocky: there is a passage between the +group and Cape Grenville. The merchant ship Lady Elliot in passing +through it, found overfalls with eighteen fathoms. + +Round Cape Grenville is MARGARET BAY, fronted by SUNDAY ISLAND, elevated +and rocky, but not so high as Haggerston's Island, with good anchorage +under its lee. + +q is a covered reef of about a mile in extent, in latitude 11 degrees 55 +minutes, five or six miles to the East-North-East of Sir Everard Home's +Group. + +SIR CHARLES HARDY'S ISLANDS are high and rocky, and may be seen five or +six leagues off; the summit is in latitude 11 degrees 53 minutes 20 +seconds, and longitude 143 degrees 23 minutes 40 seconds. + +r is a covered reef; and s, a reef, with a dry sandy key upon it. + +COCKBURN ISLES are rocky, and may be seen four leagues off.* + +(*Footnote. There is a dry sand bearing South-West by West 1/2 West, two +miles and a half from the southernmost Cockburn Island, and there are +many shoals of great extent to the northward of the group. Roe +manuscript.) + +t and u are two reefs that were seen at a distance, and appeared to be +detached from each other. + +BIRD ISLES (the Lagoon Islands of Lieutenant Bligh) consist of three low +bushy islets encompassed by a reef: the islands are at the outer verge of +the reef, and may be passed within a quarter of a mile; the north-east +island is in latitude 11 degrees 44 minutes 15 seconds, and longitude 142 +degrees 58 minutes 45 seconds. + +McARTHUR'S ISLES consist of four low bushy islets, of which two are very +small; they are encompassed by a reef of more than three miles long, and +are separated from the Bird Isles by a channel three miles and a half +wide. + +HANNIBAL'S ISLES are three in number, low and covered with bushes, the +easternmost is near the extremity of the reef encircling the whole, and +is in latitude 11 degrees 34 minutes 15 seconds, and longitude 142 +degrees 51 minutes 20 seconds.* + +(*Footnote. There is a dry sand at one mile and three-quarters, and +another at two miles and a half North-North-West from North Hannibal +Island.) + +v and w; these shoals are separated by a safe channel of a mile and a +quarter wide; v is circular, and has a dry sand at its north-west edge, +and a rocky key at its south-west end; the channel between it and +Hannibal's Islands is two miles and a half wide: w is nearly four miles +long, and is entirely covered; the course between them is west, but, by +hauling close round the east end of v, a West by North 1/2 North course +will carry a vessel a quarter of a mile to leeward of the west end of w; +the north-west extreme of w is three miles and a quarter South 35 degrees +West from Islet 1. + +The islets 1 and 2 are contained in a triangular-shaped reef, of about a +mile and three quarters in extent; they are covered with low trees. Islet +1 is in latitude 11 degrees 28 minutes 45 seconds. Number 3 is a sandy +islet crowned with bushes at the north-west end of a coral reef of about +a mile and a half in length. Between the two latter reefs there appeared +to be a channel of a mile wide in the direction of about North-West. 4, +5, and 6, are sandy islets covered with bushes, on small detached reefs, +with, apparently, a passage between each: 4 is in latitude 11 degrees 22 +minutes 30 seconds. 7, a small bushy island,* is separated from +CAIRNCROSS ISLAND by a channel two miles wide. The latter is a small +woody island, situated at the north-west end of a coral reef, more than +two miles long and one broad; the north-west point of the reef runs off +with a sharp point for about a quarter of a mile from the islet. There is +good anchorage under it, but the depth is fifteen fathoms, and the sea is +rather heavy at times with the tide setting against the wind; the +latitude of its centre is 11 degrees 33 minutes 30 seconds, and its +longitude 142 degrees 50 minutes 35 seconds. (See volume 1 and above.) + +(*Footnote. A rocky reef extends for two miles to the southward of islet +7. Roe manuscript.) + +8, 9, and 10, are low, woody islets: 8 is five miles to the eastward of +Cairncross Island; 9 and 10 are to the northward of 8. + +11 is also low and woody, but its position was not clearly ascertained. + +ORFORDNESS is a sandy projection of the coast under Pudding-pan Hill (of +Bligh) the shape of which, being flat-topped, is very remarkable: the +hill is in latitude 11 degrees 18 minutes 30 seconds, and longitude 142 +degrees 43 minutes 35 seconds. + +The country between Cape Grenville and Cape York is low and sandy, with +but few sinuosities in its coast line: it is exposed to the trade wind, +which often blows with great strength, from South-East and South-East by +East. + +ESCAPE RIVER, in 10 degrees 57 1/2 minutes, is an opening in the land of +one mile in breadth, trending in for two or three miles, when it turns to +the north, and is concealed from the view; the land on the north side of +the entrance is probably an island, for an opening was observed in +Newcastle Bay, trending to the south, which may communicate with the +river. The entrance is defended by a bar, on which the Mermaid was nearly +lost. (Volume 1.) The deepest channel may probably be near the south +head, which is rocky. The banks on the south side are wooded, and present +an inviting aspect. + +NEWCASTLE BAY is nine miles in extent by six deep; its shores are low, +and apparently of a sandy character; at the bottom there is a +considerable opening bearing West 1/4 North eight miles and a half from +Turtle Island. + +Off the south head of the bay is TURTLE ISLAND, a small rocky islet on +the east side of an extensive reef, in latitude 10 degrees 54 minutes, +and longitude 142 degrees 38 minutes 40 seconds; it is separated by a +channel three miles wide from reef x, which has a dry sand at its north +end, in latitude 10 degrees 53 minutes, and longitude 142 degrees 42 +minutes, it has also some dry rocks and a mangrove bush on the inner part +of its south end. + +Four miles to the north of x are two shoals y and Z, both of which are +covered; y is two miles and a half long, and three miles and a quarter; +neither of them appeared to be a mile in width; the north-west end of z, +when in a line with Mount Adolphus, bears North 19 degrees West. + +Off the north head of Newcastle Bay, which forms the south-east trend of +the land of Cape York, is a group of high rocky islands, ALBANY ISLES; +and immediately off the point is a reef, which extends for about a mile; +half a mile without its edge, we had ten fathoms. + +The islets 12, 13, and 15, were only seen at a distance. + +THE BROTHERS, so called in Lieutenant Bligh's chart, are two high rocks +upon a reef. + +ALBANY ISLES contain six islands, of which one only is of large size; the +easternmost has a small peak, and a reef extends for less than a quarter +of a mile from it; the peak is in latitude 10 degrees 43 minutes 45 +seconds, and longitude 142 degrees 35 minutes 5 seconds. + +YORK ISLES is a group about seven miles from the mainland; the principal +island, which is not more than two miles long, has a very conspicuous +flat-topped hill upon it, MOUNT ADOLPHUS,* in latitude 10 degrees 38 +minutes 20 seconds, and longitude 142 degrees 36 minutes 25 seconds. Off +the south-east end of this island are two rocky islets, the southernmost +of which is more than a mile distant; the northern group of the York +Isles are laid down from Captain Flinders. + +(*Footnote. There is a bay on the west side or Mount Adolphus, but it +appeared shoal. Roe manuscript.) + +CAPE YORK, the northernmost land of New South Wales, has a conical hill +half a mile within its extremity, the situation of which is in 10 degrees +42 minutes 40 seconds South, and 142 degrees 28 minutes 50 seconds East +of Greenwich. There is also an island close to the point with a conical +hill upon it, which has perhaps been hitherto taken for the cape; from +which it is separated by a shoal strait half a mile wide; the latitude of +the summit is 10 degrees 41 minutes 35 seconds, and longitude 142 degrees +28 minutes 25 seconds. From this island a considerable shoal extends to +the westward for six miles towards a peaked hill on the extremity of a +point. In the centre of this shoal are some dry rocks. + +At the distance of nearly five miles from the above island is the rocky +islet a, in latitude 10 degrees 36 minutes 50 seconds, and longitude 142 +degrees 27 minutes 45 seconds; it is of small size, and surrounded by +deep water; and, being easily seen from the strait between Cape York and +the York Isles, serves to direct the course. + +POSSESSION ISLES consist of nine or ten islets, of which 2 and 7 only are +of large size, and neither of these are two miles long; they are also +higher than the others. Number 1 is a small conical hill; 2 is hummocky; +3, 4, and 6, are very small; 5 makes with a hollow in its centre, like +the seat of a saddle. The passage between 2 and the small islets 3 and 4 +is the best; there is six and seven fathoms water; but in passing this, +it must be recollected that the tide sets towards the islands on the +northern side. + +ENDEAVOUR STRAIT is on the south side of Prince of Wales' Islands: a +shoal extends from Cape Cornwall (latitude 10 degrees 45 minutes 45 +seconds, longitude 142 degrees 8 minutes 35 seconds) to the westward, and +is probably connected with a strip of sand that stretches from Wallis' +Isles to Shoal Cape. We crossed it with the cape bearing about East, when +the least depth was four fathoms; but on many parts there are not more +than three fathoms. Variation 5 degrees 38 minutes West. + +PRINCE OF WALES ISLANDS are much intersected by straits and openings, +that are very little known; there was an appearance of a good port, a +little to the South-West of HORNED HILL (latitude 10 degrees 36 minutes +35 seconds, longitude 142 degrees 15 minutes) which may probably +communicate with Wolf's Bay; the strait to the south of Wednesday Island +also offers a good port in the eastern entrance of some rocky islands and +without them is the rock b, with some sunken dangers near it. + +WEDNESDAY ISLAND; its north end, in latitude 10 degrees 30 minutes 10 +seconds, and longitude 142 degrees 15 minutes, may be approached close, +but a considerable shoal stretches off its western side, the greater part +of which is dry. + +Off HAMMOND'S ISLAND is a high, conspicuous rock, bearing West 3/4 South, +and five miles and three-quarters from the north end of Wednesday Island. +Captain Flinders passed through the strait separating Wednesday Island +from Hammond's Islands, and had four, five, and six fathoms. + +Abreast of the strait separating GOOD'S ISLAND from the latter is the +reef c, on which are several dry rocks, but abreast of it, and one mile +and one quarter from it, is the reef d,* which is generally covered; the +latter bears South 75 degrees West three miles and a quarter from the +rock off Hammond's Island, and about North 45 degrees West two and a +quarter miles from the opening between Good and Hammond's Island; the +marks for avoiding it are given in the sailing directions. + +(*Footnote. d consists of three small detached patches, that extend +farther off than is at first observed. There is also a narrow strip of +rocks extending for a short distance off the north-east end of the reef +off Hammond's Island. Roe manuscript.) + +Abreast of Wednesday, Hammond, and Good's Islands, is the NORTH-WEST +REEF, an extensive coral bank, many parts of which are dry; it is ten or +eleven miles long; the channel between it and the islands is from one +mile and three-quarters to two miles and a quarter wide. + +BOOBY ISLAND (latitude of its centre 10 degrees 36 minutes, longitude 141 +degrees 52 minutes 50 seconds) is a small rocky islet of scarcely a third +of a mile in diameter; its south-west end has a shoal projecting from it +for half a mile, but its other sides are bold to. In a North 70 degrees +East direction from it, at the distance of two miles and three-quarters, +is a sandbank with three fathoms; it was discovered by the ships Claudine +and Mary, on their passage through Torres Strait, when it was named +LARPENT'S BANK.* + +(*Footnote. It is near the west end of a shoal of five miles in length, +extending in an east and west direction, a few feet only below the +surface of the water. Roe manuscript.) + +... + + +APPENDIX A. SECTION 3. + +DESCRIPTION OF THE WINDS AND WEATHER, AND OF THE PORTS AND COAST BETWEEN +WESSEL'S ISLANDS AND CLARENCE STRAIT. + +In the sea that separates the land of New Guinea and the islands of Timor +Laut and Arroo from the north coast of Australia, the winds are +periodical, and are called the east and west monsoons, for such is their +direction in the mid-sea. Near the Coast of New Holland the regularity of +these winds is partly suspended by the rarefied state of the atmosphere; +this produces land and sea-breezes, but the former are principally from +the quarter from which the winds are blowing in the mid sea. The usual +course of the winds near the coast in the months of April, May, and June, +is as follows: after a calm night, the land-wind springs up at daylight +from South or South-South-East; it then usually freshens, but, as the sun +gets higher, and the land becomes heated, gradually decreases. At noon +the sea-wind rushes in towards the land, and generally blows fresh from +East; at sunset it veers to the North-East, and falls calm, which lasts +the whole night, so that if a ship, making a course, does not keep at a +moderate distance from the land, she is subject to delay; she would not, +however, probably have so fresh a breeze in the day time. Later in the +season of the easterly monsoon, in August, September, and October, calms +are frequent, and the heat is sultry and oppressive; this weather +sometimes lasts for a fortnight or three weeks at a time. The easterly +monsoon commences about the 1st of April, with squally, rainy weather, +but, in a week or ten days, settles to fine weather and steady winds in +the offing, and regular land and sea breezes, as above described, near +the coast. It ceases about the latter end of November or early part of +December; the westerly monsoon may then be expected to blow strong, and +perhaps with regularity. + +This is the rainy season, and is doubtless an unwholesome time; Captain +Flinders' crew experienced much sickness in his examination of the Gulf +of Carpentaria during this monsoon, but, when upon the western side of +the gulf, he thought that the fine weather then experienced might be +occasioned by the monsoon's blowing over the land. In January and +February the monsoon is at its strength, but declines towards the end of +the latter month, and in March becomes variable, with dark, cloudy, and +unsettled weather; the wind is then generally from the South-West, but +not at all regular. + +The current sets with the wind, and seldom exceeds a knot or a knot and a +half per hour; between Capes Wessel and Van Diemen it is not stronger, +and its course in the easterly monsoon, when only we had any experience +of it, was West: the strength is probably increased or diminished by the +state of the wind. + +The tides are of trifling consequence; the flood comes from the eastward, +but rarely rises more than ten feet, or runs so much as a mile and a half +per hour. High water takes place at full and change at Liverpool River, +and Goulburn Island at six o'clock, at the entrance of the Alligator +Rivers in Van Diemen's Gulf, at 8 hours 15 minutes, and at the south end +of Apsley Strait at 3 hours 25 minutes.* The flood-tide comes from the +eastward, excepting when its course is altered by local circumstances; +the rise is not more than eleven feet at the springs. + +(*Footnote. In St. Asaph's Bay, Lieutenant Roe found high-water take +place at full and change at 5 hours 45 minutes; and in King's Cove at 5 +hours 15 minutes; at the latter place it rose fourteen feet.) + +The variation of the compass in this interval is scarcely affected by the +ship's local attraction. Off Cape Wessel it is between 3 and 4 degrees +East; at Liverpool River about 1 3/4 degrees East, at Goulburn Islands 2 +degrees East, and off Cape Van Diemen, not more than 1 1/2 degrees East. + +The dip of the south end of the needle at Goulburn Island was 27 degrees +32 1/2 minutes. + +When the survey of the Gulf of Carpentaria was completed by Captain +Flinders, his vessel proved to be so unfit for continuing the examination +of the north coast, that it was found necessary to return to Port +Jackson; and as he left it at the strait that separates Point Dale from +Wessel's Islands, which is called in my chart BROWN'S STRAIT, he saw no +part of the coast to the westward of that point, nor did he even see Cape +Wessel, the extremity of the range of Wessel's Islands, which terminate +in latitude 10 degrees 59 1/4 minutes, and longitude 135 degrees 46 +minutes 30 seconds. The group consists of four islands, besides some of +smaller size to the southward of the northernmost, and also a few on the +eastern side of Brown's Strait; one of which is Cunningham's Island, of +Captain Flinders. CUMBERLAND STRAIT is in latitude 11 degrees 25 minutes, +longitude 135 degrees 31 minutes. + +POINT DALE, unless it is upon an island, appears to be the east extremity +of the north coast; its latitude is 11 degrees 36 minutes, longitude 135 +degrees 9 minutes: there are several rocky islands of small size, lying +off, encompassed by a reef, which extends for eight miles +North-North-East 1/2 East from the point. In Brown's Strait the tide sets +at the rate of three and a half and four miles per hour; the flood runs +to the southward through the strait. To the westward of Point Dale the +coast extends for about sixty miles to the south-west to Castlereagh Bay; +in which space there are several openings in the beach, that are probably +small rivers: one, ten miles to the South-West, may be a strait +insulating Point Dale, and communicating with Arnhem Bay. + +CASTLEREAGH BAY is forty miles wide, by about eighteen deep; it is +fronted by a group of straggling islands of low coral formation, crowned +with small trees and bushes: the centre of the northernmost islet is in +latitude 11 degrees 41 minutes 50 seconds, longitude 134 degrees 10 +minutes 5 seconds. To the eastward of Cape Stewart, the western head of +the bay, the coast is very much indented, and probably contains several +openings or rivulets, particularly two at the bottom of the bay. The +beach is generally sandy, with rocky points, and the shore is wooded to +the beach; the interior was in no part visible over the coast hills, +which are very low and level. + +From the extremity of CAPE STEWART, which is in latitude 11 degrees 56 +minutes, and longitude 133 degrees 48 minutes, a reef extends to the West +by North 1/2 North for eight miles and a half; having, at a mile within +the extremity, a low sandy key, with a small dry rock half a mile to the +eastward. Every other part of the reef is covered. + +To the westward of Cape Stewart is a sandy bay nearly eleven leagues in +extent, but not more than seven deep; near its western end there is a +small break in the beach, but it did not appear to be of any consequence. + +The extreme point of this bight is the eastern head of LIVERPOOL RIVER, +whose entrance is to the westward of Haul-round Islet; which, as well as +Entrance Island, is connected to the above point by a shoal. Haul-round +Islet is in latitude 11 degrees 54 minutes, and longitude 134 degrees 14 +minutes; Entrance Island is in latitude 11 degrees 57 minutes, and +longitude 134 degrees 14 minutes 50 seconds. + +The entrance is from one and a quarter to two miles wide. The reef +extends for half a mile from Haul-round Islet, close without which the +water is deep, the least depth in the entrance is five and three-quarter +fathoms; and, in some parts there are thirteen and fourteen fathoms: at +seven miles within Haul-round Islet, the depth decreases to four fathoms, +and then gradually shoals to three; after which it varies in the channel +of the river to between nine and twelve feet at low water. A bar crosses +the river at the low mangrove island, over which there is not more than +three feet at low water; but, as the tide rises more than eight feet at +the springs, vessels drawing ten or eleven feet may proceed up the river. + +The stream runs in a very tortuous course for upwards of forty miles, but +as our examination was unassisted by bearings or observations, it is laid +down from an eye sketch. + +POINT BRAITHWAITE, in latitude 11 degrees 45 minutes 50 seconds, and +longitude 133 degrees 55 minutes 20 seconds, is twenty miles to the +westward of Haul-round Islet; to the southward of it is Junction Bay, +which was not examined. + +For the next thirty miles the coast is very much indented, and has some +deep bays on either side of Point Barclay, as also one to the eastward of +Point Turner, at the bottom of which an opening, a mile in width, is +probably a river. Here also the feature of the coast is altered, being +low and level to the eastward as far as Point Dale, without a hill or +rising ground in the interior to relieve its monotonous appearance. At +this place, however, a range of rocky hills, WELLINGTON RANGE, commences, +of about twenty miles in extent: five miles behind it is the Tor +(latitude 11 degrees 54 minutes, and longitude 133 degrees 10 minutes 20 +seconds) a solitary pyramidal rock; and seven miles and a quarter West by +South, from the latter is a peak-topped hill. + +The two latter are apparently unconnected with the range, on which there +are four remarkable ridges, of which the two westernmost are the most +remarkable. + +GOULBURN ISLANDS consist of two islands, each being about twenty miles in +circumference; they are separated from each other by a rocky strait three +miles wide, which in most parts is deep enough for a ship of any size to +pass through; the latitude of the centre of this strait is 11 degrees 32 +minutes. Macquarie Strait separates the southernmost from the main, and +is nearly two miles across: the depth in mid-channel being eighteen +fathoms: the latitude of Retaliation Point, which is on the northern side +of the strait, is in 11 degrees 39 minutes. + +SOUTH WEST BAY affords good anchorage in five and six fathoms at a mile +from the shore, and vessels may anchor at a quarter of a mile off the +beach in three fathoms muddy bottom. + +At the north end of the bay are the Bottle Rocks separated from the point +by a channel two and a quarter fathoms deep. The Bottle Rock was one of +our fixed points, and is placed in latitude 11 degrees 37 minutes 24 +seconds, and longitude 133 degrees 19 minutes 40 seconds. The bay affords +a convenient place for wooding and watering; the latter may be had during +the early months of the dry season (as late as August) from a drain at +the base of the Pipe Clay Cliffs at the north end of the bay. There are +also some holes on Sims Island that contain water for a much later +period. The holes have been made by the Malays for the purpose of +collecting it. + +MULLET BAY is on the west side of the north island, affording good +anchorage in the easterly monsoon in six and seven fathoms mud, at a mile +from the shore. The flood-tide here sets to the eastward, and it is high +water at full and change in the strait at six o'clock; the rise of the +tide is not more than five or six feet. The north-east point of North +Goulburn Island is in latitude 11 degrees 26 minutes, longitude 133 +degrees 26 minutes. + +From Macquarie Strait the land trends to the westward, and north-westward +to De Courcy Head, and forms but few sinuosities. POINT BROGDEN, in +latitude 11 degrees 30 minutes, the only projection in this space, is +remarkable for being higher than usual, and for having a range of cliffs +to the southward of the point; with a solitary tree near its extremity, +hence the land is rocky towards De Courcy Head, which is a cliffy +projection in latitude 11 degrees 17 minutes 30 seconds; thence the shore +continues rocky to Cape Cockburn, a low rocky point, with a conspicuous +tree at its extremity. The point is wooded to within a short distance of +the sea, as is generally the case with the shores of this coast. CAPE +COCKBURN is in latitude 11 degrees 18 minutes, and longitude 132 degrees +53 minutes 5 seconds. + +MOUNTNORRIS BAY extends between Cape Cockburn and Cape Croker, it is +twenty-eight miles wide, and twenty-three deep. It contains several +islands, and is also fronted by a group, of which New Year's Island, the +latitude of whose centre is 10 degrees 55 minutes, and longitude 133 +degrees 0 minutes 36 seconds, is the outermost; the others are named +Oxley, Lawson, McCluer, Grant, Templer, and Cowlard. They are straggling, +and have wide and apparently deep channels between them. Between New +Year's and McCluer's Islands, the channel is nearly eight miles wide and +eighteen and nineteen fathoms deep. A reef extends off the north-west end +of the latter island for nearly three miles, and the ground is rocky and +shoal for some distance off the north-east end of Oxley's Island. Grant's +Island is higher than the others, which are merely small woody islets, +the centre is in 11 degrees 10 minutes. + +At the north-east end of Mountnorris Bay is MALAY BAY which is four miles +wide and six deep; it affords good anchorage in four and five fathoms in +the centre: as it offered no other inducement, we did not land upon any +part of it. Between Valentia Island and Point Annesley, the channel is +more than a mile wide and four fathoms deep. VALENTIA ISLAND has a reef +off its north point, and another off its south-east point, each about a +mile in extent. + +COPELAND ISLAND is small and wedge-shaped, its summit is in latitude 11 +degrees 28 minutes, and longitude 132 degrees 43 minutes; four miles and +a quarter West-North-West from it is a covered sandbank having nine feet +water near its edge; it was not quite certain whether it was joined to +the land or not, from which it is distant two miles and a half. + +On the western side of the bay there is a strait two miles wide +separating Croker's Island from the main; it is ten or eleven miles in +length, and is navigable since the Malay fleet were observed to pass +through it. + +CROKER'S ISLAND is twenty-one miles and a quarter from north to south, +and from two to five broad, its northern extremity is in 10 degrees 58 +minutes 30 seconds latitude, and 132 degrees 34 minutes 10 seconds +longitude; about three-quarters of a mile within it there is a remarkable +rocky knob: its south extreme is in 11 degrees 19 1/4 minutes. + +PALM BAY, on its western side, is an excellent anchorage in the easterly +monsoon; it is four miles and a half wide, and nearly three deep. The +shore is rocky for a mile off, and the south point has a rocky shoal +projecting to the West-North-West for a mile and a quarter. + +DARCH'S ISLAND is separated from Croker's Island by a navigable strait +two miles wide; near the reef at the north-east end we had six fathoms, +but in mid-channel the depth was as much as eleven fathoms. A +considerable reef projects off the east end for more than a mile. The +island is about two miles and three-quarters long, and is thickly wooded; +its north point is in latitude 11 degrees 7 minutes 30 seconds. + +RAFFLES BAY forms a good port during any season; it is seven miles deep, +and from two to three broad: beyond High Point the depth is not more than +three fathoms and a half. The anchorage is however quite safe. + +The bay to the eastward of Point Smith, which has a reef extending from +it for nearly a mile, has a shoal opening at its bottom of very little +importance. At the north-east end of the bay, separated from the point by +a channel a mile wide, and more than five fathoms deep, is a small sandy +island, with a reef extending for a mile off its north end. + +PORT ESSINGTON, the outer heads of which, Vashon Head and Point Smith, +are seven miles apart, is an extensive port, thirteen miles and a quarter +deep, and from five to three wide; independent of its Inner Harbour, +which, with a navigable entrance of a mile wide, is five miles deep and +four wide. The port is not only capacious, but has very few shoals or +dangers in it. + +On the western side, off Island Point, there are some rocks, and also a +reef projects for a mile off the bluff point that forms the east head of +Knocker's Bay. The western side of the entrance to Inner Harbour, is also +rocky and shoal for two-thirds across, but near the opposite point* the +depth is thirteen fathoms. + +(*Footnote. This is Point Record of Captain Bremer, see above.) + +On the eastern side of the port there is no danger beyond a quarter of a +mile from the shore, excepting a reef of rocks, some of which are dry; +this danger, when in a line with a remarkable cliff two miles and a +quarter to the south of Table Point, bears East-South-East 1/2 East; +close without them the depth is five fathoms. + +The INNER HARBOUR is divided into two basins which extend in for two +miles on either side of Middle Head, a cliffy projection, surrounded by a +rocky shore for a quarter of a mile off. The anchorage between the +entrance and Middle Head is in five and six fathoms mud, and in the +centre of the western basin the depth is five fathoms mud. The shores are +higher than usual, and are varied by sandy beaches and cliffs, some of +white and others of a red colour. The western side of the port was not +visited, and our tracks and examinations were made principally on the +opposite shore. At the bottom of Knocker's Bay is a shoal mangrove +opening, of no importance. See volume 1. + +POINT SMITH is in latitude 11 degrees 6 minutes 45 seconds, and longitude +132 degrees 12 minutes 30 seconds. + +VASHON HEAD has a considerable shoal projecting from it, and extending +into the bay to the westward which was called TREPANG BAY. This bay has +an opening at the bottom, that appeared to be shoal. A small sandy island +lies at the distance of a mile and three-quarters from the shore; the +reef projects into the sea for nearly a mile farther, and apparently +extends to the South-West to the north head of POPHAM BAY, which has a +small opening at the bottom, but of shoal approach; good anchorage may be +had in Popham Bay in five and six fathoms, a little within the heads, and +as they bear North and South-South-West, it is well sheltered in the +easterly monsoon. Hence to CAPE DON is three miles and a half. The latter +cape is in latitude 11 degrees 19 minutes 30 seconds, and longitude 131 +degrees 45 minutes 30 seconds. + +VAN DIEMEN'S GULF is seventy miles deep, and more than forty broad. It +has two outlets to sea; the one to the northward, DUNDAS STRAIT, is +sixteen miles wide and very deep; the other, CLARENCE STRAIT, is +seventeen miles wide, and communicates with the sea round the south sides +of Melville and Bathurst Islands: it is probably not so safe as Dundas' +Strait, on account of Vernon's Isles, which lie in mid channel, near its +western end. + +The north eastern side of Van Diemen's Gulf washes the south side of +Coburg Peninsula. It has several bays, and, to the eastward of MOUNTS +BEDWELL and Roe, the shore is fronted by SIR GEORGE HOPE'S ISLANDS, +forming a channel or port within them twenty miles deep and from three to +six broad; the entrance to it is round the north end of GREENHILL ISLAND, +which is separated from the land of the peninsula, by a strait a mile and +a half wide: the depth in mid-channel, for the shore on either side for +half a mile is shoal and rocky, is eighteen fathoms, and within it the +bottom is six, seven, and eight fathoms deep, and principally of mud. +This strait is in latitude 11 degrees 35 minutes. + +The eastern side has several openings in it, but the shores are very low, +and of shoal approach. At its south-east end are the two (and probably +three) Alligator Rivers; the westernmost (or centre) is fronted by FIELD +ISLAND, the centre of which is in 12 degrees 6 minutes latitude, and 132 +degrees 25 minutes 10 seconds longitude. These rivers have been described +in the narrative. See volume 1. The bottom of the gulf is very low, and +forms two bights, separated by a point that projects for seven or eight +miles. + +In the neighbourhood of the rivers the country is sprinkled with wooded +hills, that extend in a straggling chain towards Wellington Range, of +which they might be considered a part: but between the rivers and +Clarence Strait the country is low and flat, and only protected from +inroads of the sea by a barrier of sandhills, beyond which not a vestige +of the interior could be seen. + +CLARENCE STRAIT separates Bathurst and Melville Islands from the +mainland: it is seventy-five miles long, and from seventeen to +thirty-five wide. The narrowest part is at about its centre, between Cape +Gambier and Cape Eldon, and in this space is a group of four low rocky +islands, covered with mangroves (Vernon's Islands) from which +considerable reefs extend towards either shore. + +The best channel is probably on the northern side, near Cape Gambier, +which is in latitude 11 degrees 56 minutes 20 seconds; and there also +appeared to be a wide and safe channel on the south side; but the +neighbourhood of Vernon's Islands is rocky. The flood-tide sets to the +eastward into the gulf. + +MELVILLE ISLAND is of considerable size, and forms the western side of +Van Diemen's Gulf; its greatest length from Cape Van Diemen to Cape Keith +being seventy-two miles, and its greatest breadth thirty-eight miles; its +circumference is two hundred miles. + +We did not land on any part of it, excepting in the entrance of Apsley +Strait, at Luxmoore Head (latitude 11 degrees 21 minutes, longitude 130 +degrees 22 minutes) from which we were driven by the natives. It appeared +fertile and more elevated than the coast to the eastward, and to possess +several good harbours, particularly Apsley Strait, besides several bays +on its north coast; and from the appearance of the land on its east side, +and the extent and abrupt shape of the hills, it is probable that there +may be a port there also. + +BRENTON BAY is the mouth of a small inlet, which may probably prove to be +a fresh-water stream; and the bottom of LETHBRIDGE BAY appeared likely to +yield one also. The hills and coast are wooded to the brink of the cliffs +and sandy beaches that vary the northern shores of +Melville Island. + +The most unproductive part appeared to be the narrow strip that extends +towards Cape Van Diemen. On either side of the point, near Karslake +Island, is a bay, and at the bottom of each there is an opening in the +land, like those of Brenton and Lethbridge Bays. + +The western trend of CAPE VAN DIEMEN is in latitude 11 degrees 8 minutes +15 seconds, and longitude 130 degrees 20 minutes 30 seconds. The coast to +the south-east of the cape is formed by a range of cliffs, extending +uninterruptedly for seven miles, of a most remarkable white appearance, +whiter even than the usual colour of the pipe-clay cliffs to the +eastward. Cape Van Diemen is a low sandy point, with a shoal spit +projecting from it for four miles, within half a mile of the extremity of +which we had no bottom with ten fathoms: from this a very considerable +shoal (MERMAID'S SHOAL) extends to the westward and south-westward for +seventeen miles; and, curving round to PIPER'S HEAD, forms the northern +limit of the entrance to Apsley Strait: its western edge is rather steep; +we coasted along it, and had overfalls between ten and four fathoms near +its edge. It is not only possible, but very likely, that there are +channels through it, but the most direct channel is round its south side, +across the bar, on which there is (at low water) five fathoms. To sail +into APSLEY STRAIT by this channel, if coming from the westward, steer in +on the parallel of 11 degrees 15 minutes, until the northern part of +Bathurst Island is seen: when the western trend of the island bears +South, you will be abreast of the west extremity of the shoal off Cape +Van Diemen. Steering on, you will see Piper's Head, a cliffy point, +forming the north entrance to the strait, which must be kept upon the +bearing of East by North, until the low, sandy, south point of the +strait's entrance* is in a line with the summit of LUXMOORE HEAD, a +remarkable flat-topped hill on the eastern side of the strait, bearing +South 59 degrees East. Then steer East by South, keeping the lead going, +and hauling to the north if the soundings are less than seven fathoms, +until the strait is opened bearing South-East by South, when you may haul +in for Luxmoore Head, and anchor at will. + +(*Footnote. Point Brace of Captain Bremer.) + +The narrowest part of the strait is where the low, sandy extremity, Point +Brace, bears South 40 degrees East; the channel then is from seventeen to +eighteen fathoms deep, and shoals suddenly on its south, but gradually on +its north side: it is about a mile and a half wide. + +APSLEY STRAIT is forty miles long, and from one to three broad; the +widest part being at the north end: the southern end, for five or six +miles from the outlet, is very rocky; the south entrance is in latitude +11 degrees 45 minutes; the flood sets to the southward, and the ebb, from +Van Diemen's Gulf out of Clarence Strait, runs through the strait to the +north, which must cause many shoals off the south entrance; the depth is +generally from ten to thirteen fathoms, but is very irregular towards the +south end; at low water many parts are dry, which leave the channels very +intricate. We passed over it at high water without knowing our danger, +for the stream of the tide carried us through the deepest part of the +channel. + +BATHURST ISLAND is from thirty to thirty-three miles in extent, having a +circumference of a hundred and twenty miles. GORDON BAY, on its western +side, affords a good shelter in the easterly monsoon; it is ten miles +wide, and six deep, and terminated by PORT HURD, the entrance to which is +fronted by a bar, having twelve or fourteen feet on it at low water. Near +the south-western head of the bay two projecting cliffy points (Twin +Cliffs) terminate a sandy bay, from which wood and, probably, water may +be obtained. + +PORT HURD, at the bottom of Gordon Bay, in latitude 11 degrees 39 minutes +30 seconds, is a mere salt-water inlet, running up in a South-East +direction for eight miles; it then separates into two creeks that wind +under each side of a wooded hill; the entrance is three-quarters of a +mile wide, and formed by two low points. At the back of the port are some +wooded hills; one of them, Mount Hurd, kept in the opening between the +two points of entrance, is the mark for the deepest part of the bar. When +within the entrance the port opens, and forms a basin two miles and a +quarter broad, after which it narrows and runs up at from half to a +quarter of a mile wide, with a channel four and five fathoms deep. + +The country here is thickly wooded, but very low, excepting a few ranges +of hills that may rise to the height of two hundred feet. The south side +of Bathurst Island has no sinuosities. + +Near CAPE FOURCROY the coast is formed by sandhills: but, for the next +fifteen miles, it is low and backed by wooded hills. + +... + + +APPENDIX A. SECTION 4. + +OF THE NATURE OF THE WINDS AND THE DESCRIPTION OF THE COAST BETWEEN +CLARENCE STRAIT AND THE NORTH-WEST CAPE. + +NORTH-WEST COAST. + +The nature of the winds upon the North-west Coast, that is, between Cape +Van Diemen and the North-west Cape, differs very materially from the +regularity of the monsoons in the sea that divides it from Timor and the +islands to the northward; excepting in the narrower part between Cape +Londonderry and the Sahul Bank, where, from the contracted nature of the +sea, more regular winds may be expected. The easterly monsoon commences +about the beginning of April, and in the months of May and June blows +with great strength, and will be found more regular close to the +projecting parts of the coast, but they then rather assume the character +of a sea-breeze, for the nights are generally calm. + +After the month of June the winds to the westward of Cape Londonderry are +very irregular, and generally blow from the southward or south-west; they +are however more constant to the westward of Buccaneer's Archipelago, +where the seabreezes blow principally from the North-West along the land. +At intervals, during the east monsoon, the wind blows strong from +South-East, but only for a short time, perhaps only for a few hours. +Ships may creep along the Coast of New Holland to the eastward during the +easterly monsoon, when they could not make any progress in the mid sea, +without being much delayed by calms. Towards the North-west Cape, neither +the monsoon nor the South East trade are much experienced, the wind being +generally from the South-West or North-West. + +During the strength of the westerly monsoon, that is, in the months of +December and January, the wind is regular between West-North-West and +West-South-West, and, in the neighbourhood of the North-west Cape, +sometimes blows hard; but even in these tropical regions, when the +weather is very bad, the change is predicted by the barometer, which +otherwise is scarcely affected. + +In February, near the coast of New Holland, the monsoon is less constant, +and the wind often blows off the land, so that a ship could make her +westing, when, if more to the northward, it would be impossible for her +to gain any ground. At the latter end of February the westerly winds die +away, and are succeeded by light, baffling, easterly winds, with damp, +unwholesome weather, and attended occasionally by heavy squalls of wind +and rain. + +If a ship is detained late in the easterly monsoon, and wishes to get to +the westward, she will find the wind more regular and strong from the +eastward in the neighbourhood of Timor, where the easterly monsoon lasts +until the first or second week in November: in the months of September +and October, to the southward of the parallel of 12 degrees, the winds +are almost constant from South-West. + +The currents are stronger according to the regularity and strength of the +wind, and generally set at the rate of one or one knot and a half. The +tides in this part of the coast are noticed in the description of the +places where they were observed. High water at full and change takes +place at: + +The anchorage off Vansittart Bay at 9 hours 15 minutes. + +In Montagu Sound at 12 hours 00 minutes. + +In Careening Bay at 12 hours 00 minutes. + +In Prince Regent's River at 12 hours 20 minutes. + +The rise of the tide, to the westward of Cape Van Diemen, and +particularly to the westward of Cape Bougainville, appeared gradually to +increase: the greatest that we experienced was in the vicinity of +Buccaneer's Archipelago; and at the anchorage in Camden Bay the tide rose +thirty-seven feet; occasioned probably by the intersected nature of the +coast. + +The variation in this interval is almost too trifling to be noticed for +the purposes of common navigation. Between Capes Londonderry and Van +Diemen it varies between 1/4 and 1 degree East. Between the former and +Careening Bay it was between 1 and 1 1/2 degrees East; at Careening Bay +the mean of the observations gave 3/4 of a degree West; but to the +westward of that, as far as Cape Villaret, the results of the +observations varied between 1 degree East and 1 degree West. Near the +North-west Cape, and to the eastward of it as far as Depuch Island, it is +about two degrees Westerly. + +On the south-side of Clarence Strait the land is low, like the coast to +the eastward. PATERSON BAY appeared to be the mouth of a river, but it +was not examined. The opening to the eastward of the projecting point +that forms the eastern side of Paterson Bay, seemed to be a good port; +and to have an inlet at its bottom trending to the South-East. + +CAPE GROSE, in latitude 12 degrees 32 minutes 40 seconds, and longitude +131 degrees 26 minutes, is the western head of Paterson Bay: it is +fronted by reefs that extend for a considerable distance into the sea; +their extremity is nearly nine miles north from the cape. + +Hence the coast extends low and sandy to POINT BLAZE, to the northward of +which there is a bay: to the south the shore is wooded, and trends for +eighteen miles to the north entrance of Anson Bay, which is formed by +PERON ISLANDS; these are low and sandy; at the extremity of the northern +island, there is a sandy peak in latitude 13 degrees 6 minutes 30 +seconds, and longitude 131 degrees 1 minute 20 seconds: the south end is +overrun with mangroves, and it appeared very doubtful whether a channel +existed between it and the smaller island, which is entirely surrounded +by mangroves. This entrance to the bay is very intricate, and useless, +since that to the south of the islands is so much better. Anson's Bay +affords good anchorage, and probably has a small rivulet at the bottom. + +CAPE FORD, in latitude 13 degrees 24 minutes 35 seconds, longitude 130 +degrees 52 minutes 20 seconds, has a reef projecting for three miles from +it: hence the coast trends round to the southward for thirty miles to a +bay, which also has a small opening at the bottom; five miles inland +there is a range of hills, on which two, of flat-topped summits, are +conspicuous; and, at a distance, assume the appearance of islands. They +are the Barthelemy Hills. + +A few miles to the westward is PORT KEATS. TREE POINT, in latitude 13 +degrees 59 minutes 20 seconds, longitude 130 degrees 34 minutes, the +eastern head of the port, is surrounded by a reef, which extends from it +for more than three miles. The west side has also a reef, but of much +more considerable size, stretching to the northward of Cape Hay for +fifteen miles; near its extremity there is a patch of dry rocks, +occupying an extent of two miles. The channel within the heads is from +two to four miles wide, and has anchorage in it between six and seven +fathoms, mud. The port gradually contracts as it approaches the narrow +mouth of the inlet to a mile and a half; it then trends to the south for +six miles, where it is divided into two arms, that run up for six or +seven miles more to the foot of a range of wooded hills, one of which is +MOUNT GOODWIN. The western side of the inlet is occupied by a bank of +clay, that dries at low water. At about three miles within the narrow +entrance on the western side, there is an inlet, and above this the +anchorage is good, the bottom being of clay, in which is mixed a small +ironstone pebble: between the inlet and the narrows, the bottom is deep +and rocky. + +Between Cape Hay, in latitude 14 degrees 1 minute 30 seconds, and +longitude 130 degrees 27 minutes 30 seconds, and POINT PEARCE, in +latitude 14 degrees 28 minutes 30 seconds, longitude 130 degrees 17 +minutes 15 seconds, the coast is still low, and was only seen at a +distance. Off the latter point there is a reef which does not extend to a +greater distance than a mile and a half. + +To the south of Point Pearce there is a very extensive opening, which bad +weather and other circumstances did not allow of being examined. It is +nearly thirty miles wide, and the depth across between eight fathoms and +twenty. The south shore is lined by a considerable reef extending for +seven miles from the beach. The land was very indistinctly seen at the +back, but, in one part, there was a space of more than eighteen miles, in +which nothing was visible. The strength of the tide, the bottom being +sandy instead of mud, as in other parts of the neighbourhood, and the +rocky overfalls on either side of the entrance bespeak this opening to be +of considerable size and importance. + +The shore to CAPE DOMETT was very indistinctly seen. It occupies an +extent of forty-five miles, and is fronted by extensive reefs, which +project for twenty-three miles; the north extremity of the shoal water is +twenty-six miles, nearly due west from Cape Pearce. It terminates with a +narrow point, and then trends in to the South-West towards the coast. + +The Medusa Bank fronts the entrance of Cambridge Gulf; it projects from +the coast, near Cape Domett, to the North-West for seventeen miles, and +terminates with a narrow spit, thirteen miles north from Lacrosse Island, +in latitude 14 degrees 30 1/2 minutes. Both these banks are of sand, and +their edges are very steep to. They are covered with large quantities of +mollusca, which are also abundant in the sea in their vicinity. + +CAMBRIDGE GULF extends from Lacrosse Island in a South-South-Westerly +direction for sixty-four miles. The entrance, between Cape Domett and +Cape Dussejour, is twelve miles wide; but Lacrosse Island, under which +there is good anchorage for vessels going in or out of the gulf, divides +the entrance into two channels. The western entrance is about two miles +and a half wide, and is deepest near the island: but, at a mile from the +shore, we had no bottom with fourteen and seventeen fathoms. The reefs +project from Cape Dussejour for nearly three miles. On the eastern side +of Lacrosse Island, within half a mile of the point, we had seven +fathoms, and there was every appearance of the channel being deep in the +neighbourhood of Cape Domett. Shakspeare Hill, the situation of which is +in latitude 14 degrees 47 minutes 55 seconds, and longitude 128 degrees +24 minutes, is a conspicuous object on this promontory: it is high and +rocky, and, at a distance, has the appearance of being insulated, like +Lacrosse Island. + +Having entered the gulf, it trends to the South-South-West for +twenty-three miles to Adolphus Island, where it is divided into two arms, +of which the westernmost is the principal. At ten miles from Lacrosse +Island, the channel is narrowed by shoals to a width of five miles, the +shores being twelve miles apart. The land on the western side of the gulf +is high and rocky; but the opposite shore is very low, and apparently +marshy. The bottom is of sand, as are the banks on either side, and +affords good anchorage: the tide stream runs with great strength in +mid-channel, but is easily avoided by anchoring upon the weather shore +near the edge of the bank. + +The channels on either side of Adolphus Island are called the East and +West Arms. The East Arm is from one to two miles and a half wide, and +four or five fathoms deep. At ten miles it is joined by an arm that +washes the south side of Adolphus Island, and the united streams trend +together in a South-East direction, under the foot of Mount Connexion, +for a considerable distance. This inlet was not examined. The West Arm +extends down the west side of Adolphus Island for seven miles; it is then +divided by a projecting point under View Hill; and, whilst one runs to +the eastward and unites with the East Arm, the other continues to trend +to the southward, and then opens out to an extensive basin eleven miles +in length, and from four to six in breadth; and, at seven miles, +gradually contracts as it winds under the base of the Bastion Hills: +before, however, you arrive at the basin, the stream is divided by +several islands and rocky islets, that narrow the channel in some parts +to the width of half a mile, in which the depth is very great, and the +tide runs with great strength. + +At the entrance of the basin the high rocky character of the west shore +is superseded by low mangrove banks, with here and there a detached hill +rising from a plain of low marshy land, that, at the time of our visit, +was covered with a salt incrustation, occasioned by the evaporation of +the sea, which, apparently, had lately flooded the low lands to a great +extent: some of these plains are seven and eight miles in diameter. The +hills rise abruptly; those we examined are of sandstone formation. The +basin is very shoal, but there is a narrow channel in the centre, with +from five to nine fathoms water. The shore, opposite the Bastion Hills, +is low, and the gulf trends gradually round to the South-West for five +miles, when it is contracted into a narrow communication, called The Gut, +leading to an interior shoal basin, strewed with low marshy islands, +which the tide covers. This basin terminates to the southward in a narrow +stream, winding under the base of Mount Cockburn; and there also appeared +to be several others falling into the basin more to the westward. The +water was salt at the extremity of our exploration. The Gut leading to it +is two miles long, and not so much as a quarter of a mile wide: in some +parts we had nineteen fathoms, but in others it was deeper; it runs +through a chasm in the hills, which rise abruptly, and occasionally +recede and form bights, in which, in the wet season, the rains form some +very considerable mountain torrents. No fresh water was seen in any part +of the gulf; but as it was near the end of the dry season when we were +there, it might probably be found in a more advanced season in every part +of the western side, where the land is high and the gullies numerous: +there is, however, no durable freshwater stream without the Gut. An +alligator was observed swimming about, but very few fish were noticed. + +The coast extends from Cape Dussejour to Cape Londonderry, a distance of +ninety-five miles, without an opening, and with but few sinuosities of +any consequence. The coast is chiefly rocky, with here and there a few +sandy beaches: but the shore generally is open and exposed: there are +many parts, however, where a boat might land; particularly behind BUCKLE +HEAD, and a little farther on at REVELEY ISLAND: at the latter place +there is a gully in the hills, at the back of the bay, which may probably +produce fresh water: this bay is near Captain Baudin's MOUNT CASUARINA, a +flat-topped hill, that is conspicuous from the sea. The mount is only +visible between the bearings of South and West-South-West, and may be +seen at the distance of seven or eight leagues. It is situated at six +miles from the shore, in latitude 14 degrees 23 minutes 15 seconds, and +longitude 127 degrees 36 minutes 50 seconds. + +The coast is here but slightly wooded, and sufficiently elevated to +conceal the interior; no part of which, excepting Mount Casuarina, could +be seen. It is fronted by rocks, but they do not appear to extend more +than two miles from the shore. At CAPE RULHIERES, the coast trends more +westerly. To the westward of this cape are two sandy bays, in which boats +might effect a landing; but they are open and exposed to the northward. +To the eastward of it there are some reefs which project for more than +two miles from the shore; and, at the west head of the westernmost of the +bays, is an island with a reef extending for nearly three miles from it: +behind the island is another bay, that appeared to be fronted by the +above reef. In the offing, and at the distance of six miles from the +shore, is LESUEUR ISLAND; it is about two miles in circumference, and +surrounded by a coral reef, that extends for one mile and a half from its +north-east end. At this part the coast is more verdant in appearance than +to the eastward of Cape Rulhieres, particularly for ten miles to the +South-East of Cape Londonderry; in which space there are several sandy +bays, with the shores wooded to the brink of the beach: at about five +miles from the cape is a small boat harbour, at the back of which a gully +in the hills appeared promising for the search for fresh water, more +particularly on account of the verdant appearance of the trees near it. + +CAPE LONDONDERRY is a low rocky point; it is easily recognised by the +reef that extends from it, and the trend of the land, which takes from it +a westerly direction; there are also two small sandy islets, Stewart's +Islets, at a little more than two miles from it, encompassed by the reef. +The cape is in 13 degrees 44 minutes South, and 126 degrees 53 minutes 50 +seconds East. + +The land then extends to the westward for nearly eleven miles, to CAPE +TALBOT; it is fronted by the reef that commences at Cape Londonderry, and +projects from the shore for nearly five miles, but to the eastward of the +cape a ship may approach it within two miles. + +To the south of Cape Talbot the land trends in and forms a bay twelve +miles deep, and wide, that was not examined. It is fronted by SIR GRAHAM +MOORE'S ISLANDS, one of which is eight miles long, and low, excepting at +the east end, where there is a flat-topped hill; there is also another +remarkable summit on a smaller island, to the north of the principal +island. + +At twenty miles West-South-West from Cape Talbot is the east entrance of +VANSITTART BAY; it is formed between MARY ISLAND and the easternmost of +the ECLIPSE ISLES (Long Island) but this space, which is nearly three +miles wide, is much occupied by rocks, so that it is contracted to the +width of little more than half a mile. + +The channel to this is between two extensive reefs, the innermost of +which commences at eight miles to the westward of Cape Talbot, and +extends along Sir Graham Moore's Islands to Mary Island. + +The outer reef commences at about twelve miles from the cape, and extends +to the westward, embracing JONES' ISLAND (in latitude 13 degrees 44 +minutes, and longitude 126 degrees 23 minutes) and the Eclipse Isles. The +passage is from three and a half to five miles wide, and is deep and free +from danger. The bottom is rocky until within five miles of the Eclipse +Islands, when good anchorage may be obtained in five and six fathoms, +upon a muddy bottom. + +The entrance is between Middle Rock, and a patch of dry rocks to the +eastward of Long Rocks, the distance across being about half a mile. In +entering the bay by this channel, steer so as to pass round Middle Rock, +and upon bringing the peaked summit of Jar Island, at the bottom of the +port, between it and Long Rocks, bearing South 29 1/2 degrees West, steer +directly for Jar Island, until you are abreast of Middle Rock, when you +may haul close round it, with fourteen and sixteen fathoms: when you have +passed the Long Rocks, a course may be directed at pleasure into the bay. +There is also a deep passage to the westward of Middle Rock; but it is +too narrow to be safe. The tide sets through the channels with great +strength; with the flood-tide there is no danger, as the stream will +carry a vessel through the deepest part; with the ebb-tide, however, it +should not be attempted. + +The western entrance to Vansittart Bay is between the land of CAPE +BOUGAINVILLE and the Eclipse Islands: it is three miles and a half wide, +and quite free from danger. The approach to it, between TROUGHTON ISLAND +(latitude 13 degrees 44 minutes 10 seconds, longitude 126 degrees 11 +minutes) and the reefs in the offing, is six miles wide, and probably +quite safe. We did not ascertain the existence of a channel on the east +side of the island, but it appeared to be free from danger, and, if so, +would be the best approach. ECLIPSE HILL, being higher than the land near +it, and conspicuous from its flat tabular shape, is a good mark for the +port; it is in latitude 13 degrees 54 minutes 20 seconds and longitude +126 degrees 18 minutes 40 seconds. + +Vansittart Bay is eighteen miles deep, and from five to ten broad; it +offers excellent anchorage. The eastern shore is rocky, and should not be +approached nearer than a mile; but the western shore is steep to, and may +be passed very close: on this side the port there are many coves and bays +fit for any purposes. The most secure anchorage is in the centre of the +bay, where there is from seven to nine fathoms, mud, and the sea-breeze +has free access: but, if a more sheltered place is required, such may be +found at the south-east corner of the bottom of the bay in six and seven +fathoms, mud. High water at full and change takes place in the eastern +entrance, at a quarter past nine o'clock; the tide rises about six feet. + +JAR ISLAND is surrounded by rocks, but to the eastward of it the channel +is twelve fathoms deep. Its summit is in latitude 14 degrees 7 minutes 10 +seconds, longitude 126 degrees 15 minutes 40 seconds. + +The western side of Vansittart Bay is formed by a peninsula, the +extremity of which is Cape Bougainville; the northern part of this land +is fronted by a reef, that extends round it for three miles from the +shore, but the western side appeared to be of bold approach. The reef +commences at Cape Bougainville, and trends round to Point Gibson, where +it terminates. This part of the coast is fronted by extensive reefs, +which render the approach to it very dangerous: at sixteen miles to the +northward of the cape there is a range, the HOLOTHURIA BANKS, that extend +in an east and west direction for twenty-three miles; their north-east +extent was not ascertained, but the western end, in latitude 13 degrees +32 minutes, and longitude 125 degrees 46 minutes 45 seconds, is narrow, +and not more than five or six miles broad. + +There is another range of reefs to the westward of the cape, that extends +in a north and south direction for upwards of twenty miles; and about +from three to five miles broad. The water breaks on many parts of it. Its +north extremity, in latitude 13 degrees 41 1/2 minutes, is sixteen miles +West 3/4 North from Troughton Island: in this space the sea is quite +clear, and from sixteen to twenty fathoms deep. The narrowest part of the +channel, between the reef and the peninsula, is at Point Gibson, where it +is more than eight miles wide, and in mid-channel about twenty-three +fathoms deep. + +Between Cape Bougainville and Cape Voltaire is the ADMIRALTY GULF. It is +twenty-nine miles wide and twenty-two deep, independent of Port +Warrender. This gulf is thickly strewed with islands and reefs: a group +off Cape Voltaire was seen by the French and named by them the INSTITUTE +ISLANDS, the three principal of which, of flat-topped shape, are called +Descartes, Fenelon, and Corneille; besides these the Montesquieu Group, +and Pascal and Condillac Islands, were distinguished. On the eastern side +of the gulf, near the shore, are OSBORN'S ISLANDS, which are high and +rocky: the southernmost is remarkable for its steep, precipitous form, +and for its resemblance to Mount Cockburn in Cambridge Gulf. There is +also a conspicuous high bluff on the principal island, which appears to +have been seen by the French. + +In the offing is CASSINI ISLAND; it is rather low and level, and +surrounded by cliffs and rocky shores: on the eastern side are four sandy +beaches, which are very much frequented by turtle: a reef projects off +its north end for a mile and a half. The anchorage is good near the +island, but the water is very deep. The situation of its centre is in +latitude 13 degrees 55 minutes 5 seconds, and longitude 125 degrees 42 +minutes. + +PORT WARRENDER is an excellent port, and affords good anchorage in the +bay round Crystal Head, in which a vessel is quite land-locked; but +equally secure anchorage may be had for five miles higher up the port, in +from four to seven fathoms, mud. It extends for six miles farther, but +the depth in some parts is not more than two fathoms. + +At eleven miles from the entrance, the port is separated into two inlets, +which wind under the base of a dividing range of high, steep, and wooded +hills; these run up for five miles higher, when they become mere mangrove +creeks. There is probably another inlet on the east side of Port +Warrender which we did not examine, since it appeared to be less +considerable in size, and important in appearance, than the arm which we +had examined. CRYSTAL HEAD is in latitude 14 degrees 28 minutes, and +longitude 125 degrees 55 minutes 30 seconds. + +WALMESLY BAY appeared to be a good port also, but it is open to the +eastward. We did not enter it. + +CAPE VOLTAIRE is the extremity of a promontory, extending for more than +twenty miles into the sea, and separating the Admiralty Gulf from Montagu +Sound. There is a flat-topped hill near its extremity, in latitude 14 +degrees 14 minutes 30 seconds, and longitude 125 degrees 40 minutes 12 +seconds; and, at three miles more to the southward, a peaked hill; its +shores on either side are rocky, and indented by bays. At one part the +width across to Walmesly Bay cannot be more than a mile and a half. + +The MONTALIVET ISLES, about six leagues from the main, consist of three +rocky islands; they are visible for six or seven leagues from the deck: +the north-easternmost is in latitude 14 degrees 13 minutes 40 seconds, +longitude 125 degrees 19 minutes 30 seconds. + +MONTAGU SOUND extends from Cape Voltaire to the north end of Bigge's +Island, a distance of thirty-one miles, and is from eleven to twenty +miles deep. It is fronted by a range of islands; the outer range, which +is eight miles within the Montalivet Isles, was called PRUDHOE ISLANDS; +besides which there were several scattered about the sound, and some of +larger size near the main: of the latter are KATER'S and WOLLASTON'S. +They are of a very rocky character, and furnished with but a poor and +shallow soil, although the surface is thickly covered with small trees, +growing most luxuriantly. WATER ISLAND, to the north-east, in latitude 14 +degrees 21 minutes, and longitude 125 degrees 32 minutes 25 seconds, was +visited by us, as was also CAPSTAN ISLAND, in the south-west corner of +the sound. The latter island is in latitude 14 degrees 35 minutes 20 +seconds, and longitude 125 degrees 16 minutes 20 seconds. They are both +rocky, and destitute of any soil but what is formed by the decomposition +of the vegetables that grow upon the island. The channels between them +appeared to be clear and free from hidden danger. The depth among the +islands is from ten to fifteen fathoms on a muddy bottom; but the +anchorage is better between Kater Island and the promontory that +separates it from Walmesly Bay, than any other part. It is a very fine +port, particularly near the bottom, in SWIFT'S BAY, where the depth is +from four to five fathoms at low water, It is high water at full and +change in Swift's Bay at twelve o'clock, which is two hours and a quarter +later than in Vansittart Bay: the tide rose eighteen feet, whereas in +Port Warrender its rise was only six. The islands off the north-east end +of Bigge's Island are more numerous than in other parts of the sound: +they were only seen at a distance, and too numerous to give correct +positions to. BIGGE'S ISLAND is fourteen miles long, and from six to +seven broad; it is of moderate height, and rocky character: its south end +appeared to be thickly wooded. A flat-topped hill near the shore of +Scott's Strait is a remarkable object, and may be seen six or seven +leagues off. It is in latitude 14 degrees 39 minutes 20 seconds, and +longitude 125 degrees 10 minutes 20 seconds. + +SCOTT'S STRAIT is a channel separating Bigge's Island from the main: it +is thirteen miles long, and from three to one and a quarter broad. It is +of irregular depth, and has some rocks in mid-channel, which are dry: the +deepest channel is near the eastern shore, the depth being from ten to +fourteen fathoms. The strait does not terminate until you are to the +westward of Cape Pond, for there are several islets off the south end of +Bigge's Island, and a considerable reef, through which, although there +may be deep channels, yet they must be narrow. Off the north-west end of +Bigge's Island are several rocky islets; the outer ones were seen by me +in the Bathurst (see above): they are the MARET ISLES of Commodore +Baudin; they consist of four or five principal islands, of about two +miles in length, besides as many more of very small size off the south +extremity of the group. The northern point of the northernmost island is +in latitude 15 degrees 7 minutes 15 seconds, and longitude 124 degrees 56 +minutes 40 seconds. The group is fronted on the north-west side by a +considerable reef, extending North by East 1/2 East for seven miles; the +outer edge being three miles and a half to the westward of the group. + +YORK SOUND is fourteen miles wide and ten deep: it is contained between +Cape Pond and the northern extreme of the Coronation Islands. It is +spacious, but the bottom, in the middle, is rocky: there is, however, +very good anchorage near the Coronation Islands; and there is also, +possibly, as good on the eastern shore to the south of CAPE POND, which +has a rocky island immediately off it, the situation of which is in +latitude 14 degrees 43 minutes 20 seconds, and longitude 125 degrees 9 +minutes 25 seconds. + +At the bottom of York Sound is PRINCE FREDERIC'S HARBOUR, a fine spacious +port, fourteen miles long, and from five to seven broad: it is terminated +by two rivers, namely Hunter's and Roe's. It has several rocky islands on +either shore; and, at the bottom, they are numerous. The tide here rises +at the springs twenty-nine feet. The anchorage is not so good in the +entrance of the port, but a good bottom may be found as soon as Hunter's +River begins to open, and bears East 1/2 North, and when you are within a +small island that is in the centre of the port; but an anchorage may very +probably be obtained on the northern shore, or, indeed, any where out of +the strength of the tides. + +HUNTER'S RIVER runs up for about fourteen miles. It is about one mile and +a half wide at the entrance, and preserves that width for more than four +miles, when it suddenly contracts and becomes shoal, and very tortuous in +its course, and winds through a narrow chasm in the rocks, which rise +precipitously in some parts for at least two or three hundred feet. A +vessel may anchor in seven fathoms near the end of the first reach; its +course is to the East-North-East. There is a remarkable rock at the +entrance, in latitude 15 degrees 1 minute 30 seconds, and longitude 125 +degrees 24 minutes. ROE'S RIVER first trends for seventeen miles to the +East by South, and then, taking a sudden turn to the south, runs up for +thirteen miles more; after which it trends to the South-East, and was +supposed to run up for at least ten miles farther. Its entrance for seven +miles forms a very good harbour, being from two to six fathoms deep; but, +in anchoring here, it must be recollected that the tide falls twenty-nine +feet. This river, like Hunter's River, is bounded on either bank by +precipitous hills, which, in many parts, are inaccessible. + +Five miles to the westward of Cape Torrens is Point Hardy: off the latter +is an islet; and three miles, North by East 1/2 East from it, is a reef, +on which the sea breaks. This point is the east head of PORT NELSON, +which extends to the southward from it for eight miles: its western side +is formed by the Coronation Islands: its width is three miles, with good +anchorage all over it. At the bottom is CAREENING BAY, where the Mermaid +was repaired. The latitude of the beach in 15 degrees 6 minutes 18 +seconds, and longitude 125 degrees 0 minutes 46 seconds.* Port Nelson +communicates with the sea to the westward of the Coronation Islands, +which may be considered a strait. At the south-west end of the +southernmost island, where the strait is narrowest, and not more than one +mile and a quarter wide, there is a patch of rocks in the centre, which +always shows: the channel on the north side of these rocks is the best: +the water is very deep, and the tide sets right through. + +(*Footnote. The latitude of the observatory was taken every day during +our stay, using the sea-horizon, but the effect of refraction was so +great that the daily observations varied as much as 3 minutes 43 seconds. + +The mean of 15 meridional altitudes with the sextant made the latitude 15 +degrees 6 minutes 22.5 seconds, +and of fourteen observations with the circle 15 degrees 6 minutes 13.8 +seconds. +Mean for the latitude of the observatory 15 degrees 6 minutes 18 seconds +South. + +The longitude was deduced by the mean of the observations of our two +visits; namely, in October, 1820, and August, 1821: the latter were taken +at Sight Point, in Prince Regent's River, the difference of the meridians +of the two places, by chronometers and survey, being 8 minutes 52.8 +seconds. + +1820. September 28 and 29. By twenty sets of lunar distances with the +sun, containing one hundred sights with the sextant, the sun being to the +east of the moon, the longitude is 125 degrees 11 minutes 24.3 seconds. + +1821. August 2nd and 3rd. By seventeen sets of lunar distances with the +sun, containing eighty-five sights with the sextant, the sun being to the +west of the moon, the longitude of Sight Point, in Prince Regent's River, +was found to be 124 degrees 41 minutes 15.3 seconds, or of Careening Bay +124 degrees 50 minutes 8.1 seconds. + +The mean is the longitude of the observatory 125 degrees 0 minutes 46 +seconds East.) + +The CORONATION ISLANDS separate York Sound from Brunswick Bay, and are +situated in front of Port Nelson. The group consists of seventeen or +eighteen islands, besides numerous rocky islets. On the largest island +are two remarkable peaks; the easternmost is in 14 degrees 59 minutes, +and longitude 124 degrees 56 minutes 5 seconds. The island is eight miles +long, and from four to two wide; the others are from three to one mile in +length; they are covered with vegetation, and the larger islands are well +clothed with trees. The great rise of the tide would render this part of +the coast of importance, was it not for the wretched state of the +country, and the unproductiveness of its soil, which are great drawbacks +upon the advantage of the tide's unusual rise. It is high water at full +and change in Port Nelson at twelve o'clock, as it is also in Montagu +Sound. + +Beyond the Coronation Islands there is a string of small, rocky islands +extending for sixteen miles: the westernmost is Freycinet's Group; the +principal island of which Captain De Freycinet has described as +resembling an inverted bowl; and, from this description, we had no +difficulty in finding it out; it is in latitude 15 degrees 0 minutes 30 +seconds, and longitude 124 degrees 32 minutes 40 seconds. Among the other +islands we distinguished the islets Colbert, Keraudren, and Buffon. On +the last there is a small, grassy, peaked hillock, in latitude 14 degrees +55 minutes 25 seconds, and longitude 124 degrees 43 minutes 20 seconds. + +We passed out to sea between Freycinet's Group and Keraudren; and within +one mile and a half of the latter had eighteen fathoms: it appeared, from +the colour of the water, to have a reef projecting to the westward. + +BRUNSWICK BAY is at the back of these islands, and extends from CAPE +BREWSTER, in latitude 15 degrees 6 minutes 10 seconds, and longitude 124 +degrees 55 minutes 5 seconds, which terminates Port Nelson, to Point +Adieu. It is an extensive bay or sound, and is about twenty miles in +extent, with good anchorage all over it. The coast is here very much +indented by rivers and bays; among which may be particularized Prince +Regent's River, Hanover Bay, and Port George the Fourth. + +PRINCE REGENT'S RIVER is, without exception, the most remarkable feature +of the North-West Coast. In general the inlets of this coast form +extensive ports at their entrance; and, when they begin to assume the +character of a river, their course becomes tortuous, and very irregular; +of which there cannot be a better instance than the neighbouring river, +Roe's River. Prince Regent's River trends into the interior in a +South-East by East direction for fifty-four miles. With scarcely a point +to intercept the view, after being thirteen miles within it. The entrance +is formed by Cape Wellington on the east, and High Bluff on the west, a +width of eight miles, but is so much contracted by islands, that, in +hauling round Cape Wellington, the width is suddenly reduced to little +more than a mile: at the branching off of Rothsay Water, it is little +more than half a mile, and also the same width at the entrance of St. +George's Basin. In this space, however, it is in some parts a little +wider, but in no part between projecting points is it more than one mile +and a quarter. For the first nine miles the stream is narrowed by +islands; beyond this, its boundaries are formed by the natural banks of +the river. On the eastern side, within Cape Wellington, is a deep bay, +but of shoal and rocky appearance. At six miles farther on are two +inlets, ROTHSAY and MUNSTER WATERS, near which the tide forms rapid +eddies and whirlpools, that render its approach dangerous. In mid-channel +is a group of isles; and, off the easternmost, a reef projects to the +eastward for more than half a mile, round which a vessel must pass; here +the channel is not more than half a mile wide. Munster Water, on the +western side, communicates with Hanover Bay by a narrow strait, with very +good anchorage in it in four and five fathoms mud; it is, however, an +inconvenient place to go to, if a vessel is bound any farther up the +river. Rothsay Water is a very considerable arm; and was conjectured to +communicate with Prince Frederic's Harbour, and, if so, would insulate +the land between Capes Torrens and Wellington. We did not enter Rothsay +Water; and the tides and whirlpools were too rapid and dangerous to trust +our small boats without running a very great risk. At the entrance of +this arm, on the south shore, there appeared to be a shoal-bank. Halfway +Bay offers very good anchorage out of the strength of the tides, with +abundance of room to get underweigh from. The northernmost point of the +bay, SIGHT POINT, has a small islet off it (LAMMAS ISLET) where the +observations were taken to fix the longitude of Careening Bay. (See +above.) The two bays on the opposite, or north-east shore, are shoal, and +not fit for any vessel drawing more than six or seven feet; and the +shores are so lined with mangroves, as in most parts to defy all attempts +at landing. After passing them, the shores approach each other within +three-quarters of a mile, but the south-west shore is fronted by a rocky +shoal, which narrows it to less than half a mile; here the tide runs very +strong, and forms whirlpools. On passing the point, the river opens into +a large, spacious reach, which was called ST. GEORGE'S BASIN; and two +conspicuous islands in it were called ST. ANDREW and ST. PATRICK'S +ISLANDS. At the north-east corner are two remarkable hills, MOUNTS +TRAFALGAR and WATERLOO: the situation of the summit of the former is in +latitude 15 degrees 16 minutes 35 seconds, and longitude 125 degrees 4 +minutes. The basin is from eight to nine miles in diameter, but affords +no safe anchorage until a vessel is above St. Patrick's Island. The +northern side of the basin is shoaler, and has two small inlets, which +trend in on either side of the mounts, and run in for upwards of five +miles, but they are salt. At the south side of the basin there are two or +three inlets of considerable size, that trend in towards a low country. +At ten miles South-East by East from the narrow entrance to the basin the +river again resumes its narrow channel, and runs up so perfectly straight +for fourteen miles in a South-East by East course, that the hills, which +rise precipitously on either bank, were lost in distance, and the river +assumed the most exact appearance of being a strait; it was from one to +one mile and a quarter wide, and generally of from four to eight fathoms +deep on a bottom of yellow sand: the river then took a slight bend, and +continued to run up for twelve or thirteen miles further, with a few +slight curves, and gradually to decrease in width until terminated by a +bar of rocks; which, when the tide rose high enough to fall over, was +very dangerous to pass: here a considerable gully joins the main stream, +and, being fresh water, was supposed to have the same source as Roe's +River. The river trended up for about three or four miles farther, when +it is entirely stopped by a rapid formed of stones, beyond which we did +not persevere in tracing it; the tide did not reach above this, and the +stream was perceived to continue and form a very beautiful fresh-water +river, about two or three hundred yards wide. As our means did not allow +of our persevering any further, we gave up our examination. At seventeen +miles above St. George's Basin, on the south shore, we found a cascade of +fresh water falling in a considerable quantity from the height of one +hundred and forty feet; and this, in the rainy season, must be a very +large fall, for its breadth is at least fifty yards. At the time of our +visit it was near the end of the dry season: and even then there was a +very considerable quantity falling. Several small inlets trended in on +either side of the river above the basin, particularly one upon the north +side, which, from the height of the hills under which it trended, would +probably produce a freshwater stream. In 1821 the Bathurst watered from +the cascade, but the fatigue was too great, and the heat too powerful, +for the boats' crew had to pull nearly forty miles every trip. High water +took place in St. George's Basin at twenty minutes after twelve o'clock: +the tide rose twenty-four feet. + +HANOVER BAY is a very convenient port, about five miles deep, but exposed +from the North-North-West; the anchorage is, however, so good, that no +danger need be apprehended. At the bottom of the bay there is a deep +chasm in the land, yielding a fresh-water stream; beyond this the bay +terminates in a shoal basin. In the offing are several rocky islets, +particularly one, a high rock, which is very remarkable. A little to the +north-east of the river is a sandy beach, the situation of which is in +latitude 15 degrees 18 minutes 21 seconds, and longitude 124 degrees 46 +minutes 50 seconds. + +HIGH BLUFF, the extremity of the promontory separating Hanover Bay from +Port George the Fourth, speaks for itself. It is in latitude 15 degrees +14 minutes 40 seconds, and longitude 124 degrees 41 minutes 35 seconds. +Between High Bluff and Point Adieu, in latitude 15 degrees 14 minutes 10 +seconds, and longitude 124 degrees 34 minutes 45 seconds, is PORT GEORGE +THE FOURTH, having midway in its entrance a high island nearly two miles +long; and to the southward, in the centre of the port, a high rocky +islet, the LUMP, the summit of which is situated in latitude 15 degrees +18 minutes 30 seconds, and longitude 124 degrees 37 minutes 50 seconds. +The western side of the port is an extensive island, AUGUSTUS ISLAND, +eleven miles long; it is high and rocky, and has several bays on its +eastern side. The port affords very good anchorage, particularly between +Entrance Island and the Lump, in nine fathoms, mud; but there is also +very good anchorage with the Lump bearing west, in ten fathoms, mud. Port +George the Fourth terminates in a strait, ROGER'S STRAIT, communicating +with Camden Bay. The best entrance to the port is on the eastern side of +Entrance Island; for the opposite, although practicable and sufficiently +deep for the largest ships, is narrow, and must be buoyed before it can +be used. + +POINT ADIEU is the last land seen by us in 1820: it is the north-east end +of Augustus Island, and is a rocky, bluff point. In the offing, at the +distance of three miles, there is a considerable range of reefs, that +extend from the peaked island of Jackson's Isles; and more to the +north-west is another group of rocky islands. + +To the westward of Augustus Island is a range of islands extending for +five leagues; on their north side they are fronted by considerable coral +reefs, which at low water are dry; besides which there are several small +islets that contract the channels, and render the navigation intricate +and difficult. Between Augustus and Byam Martin's Islands there is an +open strait, of one mile and a half wide; but, its communication with the +sea to the north, appears to be little more than half a mile. BYAM +MARTIN'S ISLAND is separated from a range of small islets, extending +North-North-East by a strait; and these last are divided from the +Champagny Isles by another strait, from twenty-eight to thirty fathoms +deep, through which the tide runs with great force. Off the north end of +Byam Martin's Island are several smaller islets and coral reefs; the +latter extend from it for more than six miles: the north-westernmost of +these islets is the land seen in 1801 by Captain Heywood, and was called +by him Vulcan Point: RED ISLAND, which he also saw, is eight miles to the +westward; it is in latitude 15 degrees 13 minutes 15 seconds, and +longitude 124 degrees 15 minutes 45 seconds: between it and Champagny +Isles the ebbing tide uncovered several extensive reefs. Ten miles North +26 degrees East from Red Island, and South 71 degrees West from +Freycinet's Island, is a dry sandbank surrounded by a reef. + +DEGERANDO ISLAND, so called by the French, is the southernmost of the +CHAMPAGNY ISLES: considerable reefs extend off its south end, which are +dry at low water; its centre is in latitude 15 degrees 20 minutes 45 +seconds, and longitude 124 degrees 13 minutes 15 seconds. + +CAMDEN BAY is formed between Byam Martin's Island and Pratt's Islands, +and extends to the eastward to Roger's Strait; it is twelve miles deep +and eight wide. Here the tide rose and fell thirty-seven feet and a half, +the moon's age being nineteen days. High water took place thirteen +minutes after the moon's transit. + +Between Camden Bay and Point Swan, a distance of ninety miles, the +mainland falls back, and forms a very considerable opening fronted by a +multitude of islands, islets, and reefs, into which, from our loss of +anchors; we were not able to penetrate. From Camden Bay the islands, for +the coast seemed too irregular to be the mainland, extend in a range in a +south direction for more than fifty-five miles, to where there appeared +to be a deep opening, or strait, from three to five miles wide. An +irregular line of coast then appeared to extend for seven leagues to the +North-West, and afterwards to the westward for five or six leagues. To +the westward of this, the land appeared to be less continuous, and to be +formed by a mass of islands separated by deep and narrow straits, through +some of which the tide was observed to rush with considerable strength, +foaming and curling in its stream, as if it were rushing through a bed of +rocks: this was particularly observed among the islands to the south of +Macleay's Islands. After extending for thirty miles farther to the +South-West, the land terminates evidently in islands, which then trend to +the South-East; and to the westward they are separated from Cygnet Bay, +and the land to the southward of it by a strait five or six leagues wide. +The narrowest part of this strait is at Point Cunningham, where it is +twelve miles wide; two-thirds over to the islands are two rocky islets, +which bear due south from Sunday Strait. + +MONTGOMERY ISLANDS, a group of seven islets on the eastern side of this +extensive range of islands, which are named BUCCANEER'S ARCHIPELAGO, are +low and of small extent, particularly the six easternmost, none of which +are a mile long: the westernmost, which has an extensive reef stretching +to the North-West, is more than three miles in diameter, and appears to +be of different formation to the other, being low and flat, whilst the +rest are scarcely better than a heap of stones, slightly clothed with +vegetation. Between the easternmost islet and the land, there is a strait +of a league in width. The tide prevented our trying its depth: a league +and a half to the north-west, at high-water, we had irregular soundings +between ten and sixteen fathoms, but six fathoms must be deducted from it +to reduce it to the depth at low water. + +Three leagues to the north-west of Montgomery's westernmost island are +COCKELL'S ISLES, two in number, low and flat, but of small size. A reef +extends for more than five miles to the westward, and it was not thought +improbable that it might be connected with the reefs that extend to the +westward of Montgomery Islands. The centre of the largest island is in 15 +degrees 48 minutes South, and 124 degrees 4 minutes East. To the +North-East of Cockell's Islands the flood-tide sets to the south; but to +the westward with great strength to the South-East, and, at an anchorage +ten miles to the eastward of Macleay Isles, the tide rose and fell +thirty-six feet, the moon being twenty-one days old. Cockell's Islands +are twenty miles from the land to the south; and in this interval, but +within four leagues from the shore, are several small rocky islets, on +one of which there is a remarkable lump; nearer the shore are two +islands, which have a more fertile and verdant appearance than any other +part near them: these form the western extremity of COLLIER'S BAY. + +MACLEAY ISLES lie in a North by West direction, and are eight miles in +extent; the principal and highest island is near the south end of the +group; those to the northward are small and straggling. The centre of the +highest is in latitude 15 degrees 57 minutes, and longitude 123 degrees +42 minutes. + +CAFFARELLI ISLAND was seen by the French. Its summit is in latitude 16 +degrees 2 minutes 25 seconds, and longitude 123 degrees 18 minutes 35 +seconds. It is the north-westernmost of a range of islands, extending in +the direction of North 60 degrees West; among which Cleft Island, so +named from a remarkable cleft or chasm near its north end, and DAMPIER'S +MONUMENT, are conspicuous: the latter is a high lump. This range is +separated from one of a similar nature, and extending in a like direction +to the eastward, by a strait from three to four miles wide, and from +fifteen to twenty deep. + +Fourteen miles North 68 degrees West from the summit of Caffarelli Island +is BRUE REEF, a circular patch of rocks of about a mile in diameter; +three miles to the north-east of which we had irregular soundings, +between thirty-eight and forty-five fathoms on a rocky bottom. The reef +is in 15 degrees 57 minutes South, and 123 degrees 4 minutes 45 seconds +East. + +Six miles south of Caffarelli Island, is a rocky island, surrounded by a +reef; and eight miles farther are several small rocky islands, forming +the north extremity of a range, which, extending to the South by East for +ten miles, form the eastern side of Sunday Strait, which is the best, and +in fact the only safe communication with the deep opening between Point +Cunningham and the islands to the eastward. Between this strait and Point +Swan, a distance of eleven miles, the space is occupied by a multitude of +islands and islets, separated from each other by narrow and, probably, by +deep channels, through which the tide rushes with frightful rapidity. +Sunday Strait is more than four miles wide, and appears to be free from +danger. The tide sets through it at the rate of four or five miles an +hour, and forms strong ripplings, which would be, perhaps, dangerous for +a boat to encounter. The vessel was whirled round several times in +passing through it; but a boat, by being able to pull, might in a great +measure avoid passing through them. + +CYGNET BAY is formed between the islands and Point Cunningham; it is +fronted by a bank, over which the least water that we found was two +fathoms; within this bank there is good anchorage, and near the inlets at +the bottom of the bay, there is a muddy bottom, with eight and nine +fathoms mud. + +POINT CUNNINGHAM projects slightly to the eastward; its easternmost +extremity is in latitude 16 degrees 39 minutes 20 seconds and longitude +123 degrees 10 minutes; from the northward it has the appearance of being +an island, as the land to the westward is rather lower: two miles and a +half south of it is Carlisle Head, the north extremity of GOODENOUGH BAY. + +The shore thence extends in a South-South-East direction for seventeen +miles, in which space there is a shoal bay, beyond which we did not +penetrate. Off the point is an islet, in latitude about 16 degrees 58 +minutes, and to the south of it the land was seen trending to the South +by East for four or five miles, when it was lost in distance. From this +anchorage no land was distinctly seen to the eastward; between the +bearings of East-North-East and South-South-East, a slight glimmering of +land was raised above the horizon, by the effect of refraction; but this, +as in a case that occurred before in a neighbouring part off Point +Gantheaume, might be at least fifty miles off. + +From all that is at present known of this remarkable opening, there is +enough to excite the greatest interest; since, from the extent of the +opening, the rapidity of the stream, and the great rise and fall of the +tides, there must be a very extensive gulf or opening, totally different +from everything that has been before seen. + +There is also good reason to suspect that the land between Cape Leveque +and Point Gantheaume is an island; and if so, the mouth of this opening +is eight miles wide; besides, who is to say that the land even of Cape +Villaret may not also be an island? The French expedition only saw small +portions of the coast to the southward; but it does not appear probable +that the opening extends to the southward of Cape Villaret. (See above.) + +Thirty-three miles in a North 14 degrees West direction from the summit +of Caffarelli Island is ADELE ISLAND. It is low, and merely covered with +a few shrubs, and is about three miles from east to west, and from one to +one and a half broad; its west end is in 15 degrees 30 minutes South, and +123 degrees 9 minutes 15 seconds East. At about a league North-West from +its western end are two bare sandy islets, which were uncovered as we +passed, but which as there was not the slightest appearance of vegetation +upon it, may be covered at high water. On the western side of Adele +Island, is an extensive patch of light-coloured water, in some parts of +which the sea broke upon the rocks, which were only just below the +surface. The light-coloured water extends for fourteen miles North West +by West 1/2 West from Adele Island, but there is reason to think that the +water is deep over the greater part of it; for we crossed over its tail, +and sounded in forty-five fathoms without finding bottom, whilst in the +darker-coloured water on either side of it, we had forty-two and +forty-four fathoms. + +POINT SWAN is the north-easternmost point of the land of Cape Leveque; it +has an island close off its extremity, round which the tide rushes with +great force, and forms a line of ripplings for ten miles to the +West-North-West, through which, even in the Bathurst, we found it +dangerous to pass. Five miles to the north-eastward of the point are two +small rocky islets, two miles apart from each other. + +CAPE LEVEQUE is low and rocky, with a small islet close to its extremity: +its extreme is in latitude 16 degrees 21 minutes 50 seconds, and +longitude 122 degrees 56 minutes 35 seconds. Between the cape and Point +Swan, there is a sandy bay, fronted by a bed of rocks. It was in this bay +that the Buccaneers anchored, which Dampier has so well described. + +The coast between CAPES LEVEQUE and BORDA extending South 40 degrees West +nineteen miles, is low and rocky, and the country sandy and unproductive. +Between Cape Borda and Point Emeriau is a bay ten miles deep, backed by +very low sandy land; and five miles further is another bay, that appeared +to be very shoal: thence the coast extends to the South-West for +twenty-three miles to CAPE BASKERVILLE; it is low and sandy, like that to +the northward, but the interior is higher, and with some appearance of +vegetation. + +Thirteen miles from the shore are the LACEPEDE ISLANDS; they are three in +number, and surrounded by a reef nine miles long by five wide. They lie +in a North-West direction, and are two miles apart: the north-westernmost +is in latitude 16 degrees 49 minutes 40 seconds, and longitude 122 +degrees 7 minutes 20 seconds: they are low and slightly clothed with +bushes, and seem to be little more than the dry parts of the reef, on +which a soil has been accumulated, and in time produced vegetation. These +islands appear to be the haunt of prodigious numbers of boobies. The +variation is 0 degrees 12 minutes West. + +In latitude 16 degrees 46 minutes, and longitude 121 degrees 50 minutes +30 seconds, the French have placed a reef, BANC DES BALEINES; which we +did not approach near enough to see. + +Between Capes Baskerville and Berthollet, is CARNOT BAY; it is six miles +deep, and backed by low land. The bottom of the bay was not distinctly +seen, but from the appearance of the land behind the beach, it is not +improbable that there may be a rivulet falling into it. + +At POINT COULOMB, in latitude 17 degrees 21 minutes, where there is a +range of dark red cliffs, the coast commences to present a more verdant +and pleasing appearance than to the north: the interior rises to an +unusual height, and forms a round-backed hill, covered with trees: it +reminded us of the appearance of the country of the north coast, and is +so different from the rugged and barren character of the Islands of +Buccaneer's Archipelago as to afford an additional ground for our +conjecture of the insularity of this land. The red cliffs extend for four +miles to the southward of Point Coulomb, and are then superseded by a low +coast, composed alternately of rocky shores and sandy beaches. + +CAPE BOILEAU is seventeen miles to the south of Point Coulomb; here the +shore trends in and forms a bay fifteen miles wide and six deep: the +south head is the land of Point Gantheaume, which is composed of +sandhills very bare of vegetation, as was also the character of the +interior. From Point Gantheaume, in latitude 17 degrees 53 minutes, the +coast trends to the South-East for about fifteen miles, where it was lost +to view in distance: the extreme was a low sandy point, and appeared to +be the south extremity of the land. The space to the south of this, which +appeared to be a strait, insulating the land to the north as far as Cape +Leveque, is nine miles wide. The south shore trends to the westward to +Cape Villaret, on which there is a remarkable hillock, in latitude 18 +degrees 19 minutes 5 seconds, and longitude 122 degrees 3 minutes 45 +seconds. + +The space between the Cape and Point Gantheaume was called ROEBUCK BAY. +It is here that Captain Dampier landed, in the year 1688. + +Three miles to the south of the hillock on Cape Villaret, are two lumps, +which at a distance appeared like rocks. Cape Latouche-Treville has a +small hummock near its extremity, in latitude 18 degrees 29 minutes, and +longitude 121 degrees 50 minutes 50 seconds; to the eastward of it, there +is a shallow bay open to the northward. + +The depth of water in the offing of Roebuck Bay, is between eight and +twelve fathoms; the bottom is sandy, and there are in some parts +sandbanks, on which the depth decreased three fathoms at one heave, but +the least water was eight fathoms. The flood-tide sets to the eastward, +towards the opening, and at an anchorage near Cape Latouche-Treville, the +ebb ran to the North-East: but the tides were at the neaps, and did not +rise more than sixteen feet. Captain Dampier, at the springs, found it +flow thirty feet, which tends unquestionably to prove the opening behind +Roebuck Bay to be considerable, even if it does not communicate with that +behind the Buccaneer's Archipelago. + +The interval between Cape Latouche-Treville and Depuch Island, was not +seen by us. The following brief description of it is taken from M. De +Freycinet's account of Commodore Baudin's voyage. + +LAGRANGE BAY, to the east of Cape Bossut, is a bight, the bottom of which +was not seen. CAPE BOSSUT is low and sandy, as well as the neighbouring +land; and, with the exception of a small grove of trees a little to the +north of Cape Duhamel, the country is sterile everywhere. + +The CASUARINA REEF is a bank of sand and rocks, parts of which are dry, +on which the sea occasionally breaks. The channel between it and the +shore is narrow and shoal, the depth being two and a half fathoms. The +dry part of the reef extends from east to west for about two miles. + +Between CAPES DUHAMEL and MISSIESSY, the coast is sandy and sterile, with +rocky projections: GEOFFROY and DESAULT BAYS are of the same character. + +With the exception of two intervals, one of which is to the west of Cape +Missiessy, and the other to the east of the Bancs des Planaires, the +French saw the coast between Capes Missiessy and Keraudren, but at a +great distance. It appeared low and sterile. + +The BANCS DES PLANAIRES appeared to have a considerable longitudinal +extent; it was not ascertained whether they joined the mainland: some +parts seemed to be dry at low water. + +There is a bank with only fourteen feet water over it, situated nearly +North-East from Cape Keraudren in 19 degrees 41 minutes latitude. + +North, a little westerly, from CAPE LARREY, between which and Cape +Keraudren there is a bay with an island (POISSONNIER) in the entrance, is +BEDOUT ISLAND. It is in latitude 19 degrees 29 minutes, longitude 116 +degrees 32 minutes, East of Paris, or 118 degrees 52 minutes East of +Greenwich. It is low and sandy. + +The BANC DES AMPHINOMES is very extensive, and appeared to be connected +with the main; it is composed of coral, rocks, and sand. + +The coast to the South-West of Cape Larrey is, as well as the Cape +itself, of a remarkable red colour. The country appeared to be sterile. + +TURTLE ISLANDS, two in number, lie West-North-West from Cape Larrey: the +south-westernmost is merely a flat sandy islet (PLATEAU DE SABLE) the +other is surrounded by a reef of coral, upon which the sea breaks. The +Casuarina (M. De Freycinet's vessel) had nine fathoms within half a mile +of it; the reef appeared to be steep, and the island to afford a landing +in fine weather. + +The land is equally low and sandy as far as CAPE THOUIN and CAPE +COSSIGNY. + +The GEOGRAPHE REEFS extend for more than twelve miles, and perhaps are +joined to the land. Their southern parts dry at low water. The Geographe +sailed through them, so that it is probable they are detached in numerous +reefs. + +At FORESTIER ISLANDS we saw the coast again. The main is here very low, +but from the shoalness of the water we were not able to penetrate behind +Depuch Island. It is very uncertain whether the coastline that is laid +down upon the chart is correct: it was scarcely visible from the deck, +and was so low that it might have merely been the dry parts of extensive +reefs. The high land retires for fifteen or twenty miles, and forms an +amphitheatre or deep bay, with some hills of considerable elevation in +the distance. + +All the islands of this group are low and sandy, excepting DEPUCH, which +is high, and of a very peculiar formation; it is described in the first +volume. + +We did not land upon it, but on its north-east side there appeared to be +a bay, on which the French found a stream of water. + +Between DEPUCH ISLAND and CAPE LAMBERT the coast is very shoal. Towards +the latter the hills approach the sea, and the bottom is deeper. BEZOUT +ISLAND is connected to the cape by a reef, on which there are several dry +rocks; we passed close round its north-east edge, and had eleven fathoms. + +To the westward of Cape Lambert, in latitude 20 degrees 24 minutes 30 +seconds, and longitude 117 degrees 7 minutes, there are two deep +openings, which appeared to be merely bays, but their bottom was not +distinctly seen. On the top of the hill of the projecting point that +separates them, there are three remarkable rocky summits. The next point +has several round-backed hills upon it; it is the east head of NICKOL'S +BAY, into which there may possibly fall one or more streams; its shores +are low, and appeared to be lined with mangroves. Nickol's Bay affords +good anchorage in six and seven fathoms, and is only exposed to the +North-East. It is protected from westerly winds by high land: it is, +however, rather exposed to the South-West winds, from the little +elevation of the land in that direction; but if a vessel should drive, +the passage between Bezout and Delambre Island is clear and, as far as we +know, free from danger. + +DELAMBRE ISLAND has very extensive reefs stretching to the northward, and +also to the eastward, but on its western side did not appear to extend +for more than half a mile: the hill at the north end of the island is in +latitude 20 degrees 23 minutes 35 seconds, and longitude 117 degrees 1 +minute 25 seconds; the passage between it and the reef off HAUY ISLAND, +is about two miles and a half wide, and from nine to ten fathoms deep. +The edge of the reef off the latter island is not well defined, for we +passed several straggling rocks. + +LEGENDRE ISLAND is the northernmost of Dampier's Archipelago: it is nine +miles long, and from half to one and a half mile broad: near its +south-east end, which is connected to HAUY ISLAND, there are several +rocky islets, and near its extremity it has three remarkable hillocks; +its North-West point is in latitude 20 degrees 18 minutes 45 seconds, and +longitude 116 degrees 46 minutes; its north-east coast and north-west +extremity are of bold approach: the latter has a reef that fronts its +shores, extending for about a quarter of a mile into the sea; the ground +under its lee is rocky, and not safe to anchor near. Our cable hooked a +rock, fortunately however it was rotten, and broke away, so that the +cable, being a chain was not damaged. + +The islands of DAMPIER'S ARCHIPELAGO, are of high rocky character, and +very different from either the coast or the islands in their vicinity. It +consists of about twenty islands, besides smaller ones, scattered over a +space of forty miles in extent: Delambre is the easternmost island, and a +small sandy island to the South-West of Enderby Island is the +westernmost. + +GIDLEY ISLAND, and two others to the eastward, extend in a north and +south direction; they are high and rocky. The west shore of Gidley Island +appeared to be fronted by a continuous reef, on which some patches of dry +rocks were observed. Gidley Island is separated from Legendre Island by a +very shoal and rocky strait, apparently impassable for anything larger +than boats. It has several small sandy islets scattered about it, and at +low water the greater part is dry. There is doubtless a deep passage +through, but it must be intricate and dangerous, and only to be attempted +in a case of the most pressing emergency. On the island to the southward, +are two sandy bays. The land to the southward is doubtless a part of the +main: and is, like the other islands, high and rocky. It forms the +eastern shore of MERMAID's STRAIT, which is an excellent port, affording +safe and secure anchorage at all seasons. + +The islands on the western side of the strait, are LEWIS and MALUS. The +north-east point of the latter island, COURTENAY HEAD, is, without doubt, +Captain Dampier's Bluff Head. It is a very remarkable point; its summit +is in 20 degrees 29 minutes 5 seconds South, and 116 degrees 36 minutes +35 seconds East. On its west side is a sandy bay with good anchorage in +four and five fathoms. Malus Island is separated from Lewis Island by a +strait a mile wide; it is probably deep. + +The north-east point of LEWIS ISLAND is a narrow projecting tongue of +land, terminating in a high rocky lump; and to the southward of it, are +two high rocky islets of similar appearance. There is also another, but +of smaller size, off the south-east point of Malus Island. In the centre +of Lewis Island there is a valley, that stretches across to the opposite +sides of the island, forming a bay on either side. + +To the south of Lewis Island is a group of islands, which, from the +circumstance of our communicating with the natives, was called +INTERCOURSE ISLANDS. They are all small. The largest has a remarkable +summit upon it, in latitude 20 degrees 37 minutes 50 seconds, and +longitude 116 degrees 36 minutes 45 seconds: it is from this Island that +the natives drove us, and would not allow us to land.* The channel +between them and Lewis Island is more than a mile wide, and is seven and +eight fathoms deep. + +(*Footnote. Vide volume 1.) + +ENDERBY ISLAND is separated from Lewis Island by a channel one mile and a +half wide, apparently clear and free from danger. Its south-west point is +ROCKY HEAD, the summit of which was found to be in latitude 20 degrees 35 +minutes 25 seconds, and longitude 116 degrees 23 minutes 5 seconds. To +the north is GOODWYN ISLAND; and further north, and West-North-West from +Malus Island, from which it is separated by a strait two miles and a half +wide, is ROSEMARY ISLAND, which, when viewed from the North-North-East or +South-South-West, has three hummocks bearing from each other West by +North and East by South. The centre hummock is in latitude 20 degrees 27 +minutes 30 seconds, and longitude 116 degrees 31 minutes. In the vicinity +of Rosemary and Goodwyn Islands are several small rocky islands, +particularly on the north-east side of the former; and at the distance of +three miles, to the north of the centre of Malus Island, is a patch of +flat rocks, which are those seen and noticed by Dampier (Dampier volume 3 +page 81 table 4 Number 10) but from his vague account, it is not at all +certain what island he saw; and, was it not for the peculiarity and +remarkable appearance of Courtenay Head, it might have been any of the +others. There is good anchorage in all parts about the Archipelago, +particularly within Lewis Island, where the Intercourse Islands will +shelter a ship from whatever point the wind may blow. + +There is no wood of any size to be procured among the islands, which is a +great drawback upon its utility as a port. In the rainy season water is +doubtless abundant, but must be soon evaporated. We saw no rivulet or any +fresh water, excepting a few gallons that were protected from the heat of +the sun by being under the shade of a fig, but from the number of natives +seen by us, it is probable that there must be a large quantity not far +off. The natives of this part use logs to convey them from and to the +islands. A small sandy island, with a reef extending for two miles from +its north-west end, and one mile and a half from its south-east end, lies +off the south-west end of Enderby Island, and would serve as a good +protection from the sea in a South-West wind, for the anchorage on the +south side of Enderby Island. + +The mainland is high and rocky behind the islands, but at the bottom of +the bay again assumes a low character: more to the westward, a range of +hills rises abruptly and advances for fourteen miles in a North-West +direction from the interior, and reaches the shores of the bay, when it +extends for eleven miles to the westward, and is then terminated by a +valley, or an opening of one mile and a half wide, that separates it from +the rocky hills of CAPE PRESTON. The cape juts out into the sea, and is +connected by reefs to some low sandy islands to the North-East; it is in +latitude 20 degrees 49 minutes 45 seconds, and longitude 116 degrees 5 +minutes. In the centre of the bay, at eight miles North 64 degrees East +from the extremity of the cape, is a low, sandy islet, of about one-third +of a mile in diameter; and behind it, near the shores of the bay, there +appeared to be other islands of the same size and character, the +particular form and situation of which could not be distinguished. + +There is a small rocky islet off Cape Preston, and some to the +South-South-West, in which direction the shore trends in and forms a bay, +the shores of which were not seen. + +From Cape Preston the coast assumes a very different character from that +to the eastward, being less sinuous, very low, and either fronted by +mangroves, or by a range of sandhills, both of which conceal the +interior. The coast, at from three to seven miles, is fronted by a range +of low, sandy islets, from one quarter to two-thirds of a mile in +diameter: there are, however, two or three near Cape Preston of larger +size, particularly one bearing South 66 degrees West, fifteen miles from +the extremity of the cape, of rocky character, but very level, and +apparently sterile; it is nearly circular, and about two miles in +diameter. It is visible for about five leagues. + +Thirty miles South-West by South from Cape Preston is a mangrove bight, +with several openings communicating with a large lagoon, or body of +water, at the base of a small range of hills. The bight is shoal and +thickly studded with sandy islets. Hence the coast extends to the +South-West by West, fronted by mangroves for about forty miles, and then +for about sixteen miles South-West to the entrance of Curlew River. + +Between Curlew River and Cape Preston, a space of eighty-five miles, +there are not less than thirty sandy islets in sight from the coast, +separated from each other by channels, generally navigable, between one +to five miles wide. Good anchorage may be found among these islands, for +the sea cannot fail of being smooth in the strongest winds. The depth +among these islands is from four to six fathoms, and the bottom generally +of gravel or sand. + +CURLEW RIVER is defended by a shoal entrance, and is merely a creek +running through a low country for three miles; its banks are overrun with +mangroves, and it affords no inducement whatever for vessels to visit it. +The country behind is low, and, at spring tides, or during the rainy +season, is inundated. + +The coast continues low and sandy to CAPE LOCKER, a distance of thirteen +miles, and with the same barren character for twenty miles further, +forming the east side of Exmouth Gulf. ROSILY, and THEVENARD ISLES are +low and sandy; they were seen by us at a considerable distance. + +BARROW'S ISLAND, of about forty miles in circumference, is of moderate +height and level aspect, but of very sterile and barren appearance. A +considerable reef extends towards the main from its south-east side, +where there is also a small islet: on the north-east side are three +islets; the two outermost of which are low and rocky. The west coast of +Barrow's Island was seen by the French, who thought it was part of the +main; they named its north-west end, CAPE DUPUY, and its south end, CAPE +POIVRE. At ten miles South 25 degrees West from the last cape, the French +charts have assigned a position to a reef: and four miles North 10 +degrees East from Cape Dupuy is another. Neither were noticed by us, +since we did not approach this part sufficiently near to see them if they +do exist; of which, from the account of the French, there can be but +little doubt. + +LOWENDAL ISLAND and TRIMOUILLE ISLAND were seen by us, but not any +vestige of HERMITE ISLAND, which the French have placed in their chart. +From M. de Freycinet's account, the two latter islands were seen at +different times; and since Trimouille Island has a reef extending for +five miles from its north-western extremity, as Hermite Island is +described to have, there seems to be good reason to suppose that there is +but one; had there been two, we should have seen it on passing this part +in 1822.* + +(*Footnote. Vide volume 1.) + +From the reasons mentioned in the narrative, there remains no doubt in my +mind that Barrow's Island, and Lowendal and Trimouille Islands (which the +French called the Montebello Islands) are the long lost TRYAL ROCKS. The +latitude and description answer very exactly; the longitude alone raises +the doubt, but the reckonings of former navigators cannot be depended +upon, and errors of ten or twelve degrees of longitude were not rare, of +which many proofs might be found, by comparing the situations of places +formerly determined with their position on the charts of the present +time. Many old navigators were not very particular; and never gave the +error of their account upon arriving at their destined port, either from +shame or from carelessness and indifference. + +A reef of rocks is said to exist in latitude 20 degrees 17 minutes 40 +seconds, and longitude 114 degrees 46 minutes 6 seconds. They were seen +by Lieutenant Ritchie, R.N., in the command of a merchant brig, as +appears by an account published in the Sydney Gazette. + +EXMOUTH GULF terminates the North-west Coast of Australia; it is +thirty-four miles wide at its entrance (between the North-west Cape and +Cape Locker) and forty-five miles deep. Its eastern side is formed by a +very low coast, the particulars of which were not distinguished, for it +is lined by an intricate cluster of islands that we could not, having but +one anchor, penetrate among. In the entrance is Muiron Island, and two +others, h and i; and within the gulf they are too numerous to +distinguish: all the outer ones have been assigned correct positions to, +as have all between Exmouth Gulf and Dampier's Archipelago. The islets y +and z are the outer ones of the group; between which and the western +shore there is a space of fourteen miles in extent, quite free from +danger, with regular soundings between nine and twelve fathoms on a sandy +bottom. Under the western shore, which is the deepest, there are some +bays which will afford anchorage; but the bottom is generally very rocky. +In the neighbourhood of the Bay of Rest, the shore is more sinuous, and +in the bay there is good anchorage in three and four fathoms, mud. Here +the gulf is twelve miles across, and from three to six fathoms deep; but +the eastern side is shoal and very low. The gulf then shoalens and +narrows very much; and at fifteen miles farther terminates in an inlet, +or, as has been subsequently conjectured, a strait communicating with the +sea at the south end of the high land that forms the western side of the +gulf, and which is doubtless the identical Cloates Island that has +puzzled navigators for the last eighty years. It perfectly answers the +descriptions that have been given; and the only thing against it is the +longitude; but this, like that of the Tryal Rocks, is not to be attended +to. + +(*Footnote. Vide below.) + +The south-west point of this land has been named Point Cloates until its +insularity shall be determined, when, for the sake of Geography, the name +of CLOATES ISLAND should be restored. At the bottom of the south-eastern +side of Exmouth Gulf the land is so low and the islands so numerous, that +it was in vain that we attempted to examine its shores, which was also +rendered still more difficult and dangerous to persevere in doing, from +our losses of anchors, and the strong winds which blew every night from +the South-West. + +The NORTH-WEST CAPE is a low, sandy point, projecting for full two miles +to the East-North-East from the fall of the land, which was called +VLAMING HEAD. There is a reef of small extent off the cape, but separated +from it by a channel half a mile wide, and six fathoms deep; a sandy spit +extends also from the cape for about a quarter of a mile. + +The extremity of the North-West Cape is in latitude 21 degrees 47 minutes +40 seconds, and longitude 114 degrees 3 minutes 40 seconds; and Vlaming +Head in latitude 21 degrees 48 minutes 40 seconds, and longitude 114 +degrees 1 minute 40 seconds. + +... + + +APPENDIX A. SECTION 5. + +OF THE WINDS AND WEATHER, AND DESCRIPTION OF THE WESTERN COAST BETWEEN +THE NORTH-WEST CAPE AND CAPE LEEUWIN. + +NORTH-WEST COAST. + +We did not obtain much experience of the winds upon this coast, having +only been upon it during the months of January and February, when they +prevailed between South-South-East and South-South-West, veering +sometimes, though rarely, to South-West. In the winter season (June, +July, and August) hard gales of wind have been experienced from the +North-West, even as high as Shark's Bay; and at this season the coast +ought not to be approached. The South-east Trade is suspended in the +neighbourhood of the coast in the summer season, and the winds are almost +constant from South-South-West. + +Between the North-west Cape and POINT CLOATES, which is in 22 degrees 33 +minutes 5 seconds South, a space of about fifty-two miles, the shore is +defended by a reef of rocks, extending from three to five miles from it. +The land is high and level, and of most sterile appearance: nearer the +north end there is a low, sandy plain at the foot of the hills; but to +the southward the coast appeared to be steep and precipitous. This is +evidently the land that has been taken for Cloates Island; and, in fact, +it is not at all unlikely to be an island, for, to the southward of the +latter point, the shore trends in, and was so indistinctly seen, that it +probably communicates with the bottom of Exmouth Gulf.* At latitude 23 +degrees 10 minutes the coast slightly projects, and is fronted by a reef, +on which the sea was breaking heavily. + +(*Footnote. Vide volume 1.) + +CAPE FARQUHAR, in latitude 23 degrees 35 minutes, and longitude 113 +degrees 35 minutes 35 seconds, is a low, sandy point. To the northward of +it the coast trends in and forms a bay, but not deep enough to offer +shelter from the prevailing winds. + +Between Cape Farquhar and Cape Cuvier the coast is low and sandy; the +land has a level outline, and the shore is formed by a sandy beach, which +did not appear to be fronted by rocks. The land of CAPE CUVIER is high, +level, and rocky, and, rising abruptly from the sea, forms a bluff point, +in latitude 24 degrees 0 minutes 30 seconds, and longitude 113 degrees 21 +minutes 48 seconds. This promontory is the northern head of Shark's Bay. +The land was not seen by us to the South-East, and is laid down, as is +indeed the whole of Shark's Bay, from M. De Freycinet's chart, which was +drawn from the survey made of it in Commodore Baudin's voyage. + +The western coast of BERNIER and DORRE ISLANDS are bold to, and are +composed of a high, precipitous cliff, with a level summit. The only +irregularity upon them is a slight elevation on the south end of the +latter. Off the north end of Bernier Island is the small islet called +KOK'S. The channel between Bernier and Dorre is about a mile and a half +wide, but is so blocked up by rocks as to be impassable. + +DIRK HARTOG'S ISLAND extends from Cape Inscription, in latitude 25 +degrees 28 minutes 20 seconds, to 26 degrees 6 minutes; it is here +separated from Point Escarpee (Bluff Point) by a strait, which has a +shoal communication with Shark's Bay. Dirk Hartog's Island is high, and +of similar appearance to Bernier and Dorre; it is fronted by a line of +breakers. DIRK HARTOG'S ROAD, at the north end of the island, is a +commodious roadstead, sheltered from all winds to the southward of east +and west; and, since they are the prevailing and almost constant winds of +this part, may be considered a very secure anchorage. There is a reef +extending off Cape Inscription for half a mile, which will also afford +protection from the sea, even should the wind blow hard from the west. +The beach of the bay is fronted by coral rocks, but affords easy landing +in all parts, particularly at high water. This beach is covered with +turtles' nests; and at daylight thirty to fifty might be turned and +embarked without any difficulty or delay. The animals are easily taken, +since the rocks prevent their escaping into the sea; and it is only at +high water that they can return. M. De Freycinet says (page 189) that +there is a passage between the reef, off the east point of the bay, and +the shore with ten fathoms. + +The following account of Shark's Bay is taken from M. De Freycinet's +account (page 189 et seq.) + +In the fairway of the entrance to Shark's Bay, between Dorre and Dirk +Hartog's Islands, is DAMPIER'S REEF; it is two miles in extent from east +to west, and about one mile wide. It has but two and a half and three +fathoms water over it, and should be approached with care, on account of +the swell. Proceeding southerly from Cape Levillain, which is the east +head of Dirk Hartog's Road, at the distance of five or six miles is a +cove (barachois) formed by reefs, where boats might obtain shelter. Hence +to Quoin Point (Coin-de-Mire) the coast has no sinuosities. TETRODON BAY +is seven miles wide and very shallow; it has two or three sandy islets in +it, and can only be entered by small boats. Near Refuge Point is a safe +and convenient creek. To the southward of this there are several shoal +bays. To the eastward of Cape Ransonnet, which is peaked and of a +moderate elevation, there are several little creeks well adapted for +boats and, to the westward, a sandy plain extends to the south extremity +of the island. That part of Shark's Bay, between Dirk Hartog's Island and +Peron's Peninsula, is formed by Le Passage Epineux, Useless Harbour +(Havre Inutile) and Henry Freycinet's Harbour: to the southward of the +line of bearing between Quoin Point and Cape Lesueur, the sea is shoal +and studded with banks, but to the north it is quite open. + +The Passage Epineux, which separates Dirk Hartog's Island from the main, +is about two miles wide; but the reefs and rocks, which protrude from +either shore, reduce the passage to half that width. The depth upon the +rocky bar which stretches across the entrance is six fathoms, but +immediately without it the depth is twenty-two fathoms. M. De Freycinet +says, that a ship upon a lee shore in the vicinity of Point Escarpee may +enter this opening with confidence; she will find a good shelter and +excellent anchorage in five and six fathoms fine sand. To enter it, pass +in mid-channel, if anything, borrowing upon Point Escarpee, and steer for +the Mondrain de Direction, and pass over the bar without fearing the +breakers upon it, which are caused by the sudden decrease of depth, from +twenty-two to six fathoms; after this the depth will continue without +altering more than one fathom. The best anchorage is to the South-West of +Cape Ransonnet, for within it the passage is blocked up by shoals, over +which a boat cannot without difficulty pass. + +USELESS HARBOUR is so shoal as to be, according to its name, quite +unserviceable; since boats can with difficulty penetrate to the bottom, +although its length is twenty-one miles: HENRY FREYCINET HARBOUR is +twenty-two leagues long in a South-East direction; and from three to six +leagues wide. Its entrance is blocked up by a bar; and, although the +depth within is in some parts considerable, it is very doubtful whether +ships can enter it. The shores are difficult to land upon, from the +shoals extending so far off. + +On the western side of this harbour there are several inlets and deep +bays, but too shoal to be of any service. The eastern shore of the +harbour is formed by PERON'S PENINSULA, which separates it from HAMELIN'S +HARBOUR. It is sixteen leagues long and five leagues wide. DAMPIER'S BAY, +at the north-west end, contains several sandy bays, where boats may +almost always land. It is here that the French had their observatory. + +From the northern point of the peninsula, Pointe des Hauts-Fonds, the +reefs extend for three leagues to the North and North-North-West. They +were then supposed to extend to the North-East. + +The French only examined the western shores of Hamelin Harbour. The +opposite coast was seen only at a distance, and the shoalness of the +water prevented their boats from approaching it. M. De Freycinet says: +"Ces terres, basses et steriles, ne contiennent aucune coupure; +l'uniformite y est par-tout complete," page 194. + +Although Hamelin Harbour is not so deep as that of Henry Freycinet, on +the opposite side of Peron's Peninsula, it is nevertheless of larger +size. The centre is much occupied by banks, which entirely surround FAURE +ISLAND; the diameter of which is about two leagues. + +Although many sandy beaches were seen at a distance upon the eastern +shore of Shark's Bay, yet the boats of the French ships could not reach +the shore on account of the reefs which front it. Here and there they +distinguished red cliffs, and some signs of a scanty and burnt up +vegetation. + +Of the anchorages in Shark's Bay, the most convenient appears to be that +in Dampier's Bay, at the north-west end of Peron's Peninsula, as well on +account of the excellency of the holding-ground, as the facility of +procuring fuel. The Naturaliste remained a long time at this anchorage, +and never experienced any ill effect from the winds. The distance from +the shore was six miles, and the depth six fathoms, fine sandy bottom. +The sea was so clear, that the anchor was easily distinguished. The +Naturaliste found only occasion to moor with a kedge, merely to keep the +cable clear of the anchor. As the strongest winds were the South and +East, the bower anchor was laid in the latter direction. + +The above seems to be all that is worth taking from M. De Freycinet's +account as regards the navigation of Shark's Bay. The coasts of the +harbours of Henry Freycinet and Hamelin are much more detailed by him, +and there is also much valuable information upon various heads, +particularly as to meteorological observations, and the productions of +the land and sea, and a curious example of the effect of a mirage; but as +these subjects are irrelevant to the matter of this paper, they have been +disregarded. + +From POINT ESCARPEE to GANTHEAUME BAY, the coast is formed by a +precipitous range of rocky cliffs, rising abruptly from the sea, to the +height perhaps of three or four hundred feet. The coast is fringed with +an uninterrupted line of breakers. The summit of the land is so level, +and the coast so uniform, that no summits or points could be set with any +chance of recognizing them. The depth at ten miles off the shore, was +between fifty and seventy fathoms, decreasing to thirty-four in the +neighbourhood of Gantheaume Bay. + +GANTHEAUME BAY probably affords shelter on its south side from South-West +winds: there was some appearance of an opening in it, but Vlaming, who +sent a boat on shore here, has not mentioned it; and if there is one, it +is of very small size, and unimportant. The shores of the bay are low and +of sterile appearance. + +RED POINT, a steep cliffy projection, is the north extremity of a range +of reddish-coloured cliffs, of about two hundred feet high, that extends +to the southward for eight miles, when a sandy shore commences and +continues with little variation, except occasional rocky projections and +sometimes rocky bays, as far as Cape Burney. The coast is moderately +high, and, in the interior, some hills of an unusual height for this part +of the coast are seen. MOUNT NATURALISTE is in latitude 28 degrees 18 +minutes, and between the latitudes 28 degrees 25 minutes and 28 degrees +55 minutes, is MORESBY'S FLAT-TOPPED RANGE. It is terminated at the north +end by three hills, called MENAI HILLS; and at the southern end, by the +WIZARD HILLS. MOUNT FAIRFAX is in latitude 28 degrees 45 minutes 30 +seconds, and longitude 114 degrees 38 minutes 45 seconds. The coast in +front of this range is of pleasing and verdant appearance; two or three +small openings in the sandy beach, with an evident separation in the +hills behind, particularly one in latitude 28 degrees 36 minutes, bore +indications of rivulets; and the smokes of natives' fires, and the more +wooded character of the coast, showed that the country was evidently more +fertile and productive than any other part between Cape Leeuwin and the +North-west Cape. The bottom at from ten to twelve miles off, is from +twenty to twenty-five fathoms deep, and composed of a fine sand, of a +dark gray colour. + +CAPE BURNEY is in latitude 28 degrees 56 minutes: four miles to the +southward is a reef, apparently detached from the shore. + +HOUTMAN'S ABROLHOS. The old Dutch charts give a very considerable extent +to this reef; Van Keulen makes it cover a space of sea, forty-seven miles +long, and twenty-five broad. We only saw the islands at the south end, +with three detached reefs between them and the shore; one of which (the +southernmost) may probably be the TURTLE DOVE. The islands lie West 4 +degrees North true, forty-one miles from Cape Burney, but the channel +(GEELVINK CHANNEL) between the shore and the reefs, is not more than +twenty-six miles wide. The south-easternmost reef that we saw is about +three miles long, and lies nearly ten miles South 55 degrees East from +the islands; it appeared to be covered, but the sea was breaking high +over it. In passing this part of the coast, Captain Hamelin, who +commanded the Naturaliste under Commodore Baudin's orders, must have +steered within the reefs, as the Geelvink (Vlaming's ship) did. The reef +that is laid down upon the chart, in latitude 29 degrees 10 minutes is +from Van Keulen. We did not see it. (See Horsburgh volume 1 page 98.) + +From Cape Burney the coast is rather low and sandy; in 29 degrees 16 +minutes is a reef; and seven miles more to the south is another; they lie +from five to seven miles from the shore. + +In latitude 29 degrees 6 minutes 30 seconds, there is a small peaked +hillock; and in 29 degrees 17 minutes 50 seconds, a small sandy patch +upon the land. + +Between latitudes 29 degrees 25 minutes and 29 degrees 55 minutes, we did +not see the coast, having passed it in the night. It is laid down from +Van Keulen's chart. Hence to Island Point, which is low and rocky, the +shore is lined with reefs, extending off shore for two to four miles. At +the back of this, and at about eight miles from the coast, is a rocky +range, of three leagues in length, on which are MOUNTS PERON and LESUEUR. + +To the south of ISLAND POINT, are two bays fronted by reefs; the +southernmost, JURIEN BAY, has three or more small islets in it. The coast +to the south of the bay is sandy. In latitude 30 degrees 37 minutes, are +three small rocky lumps, very remarkably placed; the middle one is in +latitude 30 degrees 37 minutes 40 seconds: fourteen miles to the south of +these are two others, the north-easternmost is in latitude 30 degrees 51 +minutes 50 seconds, they are very conspicuously placed upon a ridge of +bare white sand. Hence the coast winds to the South-South-East for eighty +miles as far as the entrance of Swan River. The coast is low and slightly +wooded, and lined with reefs, that in some places extend for two miles +from the shore. Off CAPE LESCHENAULT (in latitude 31 degrees 21 minutes) +is a reef, lying six miles and a half from the shore; it appeared to be +connected with the rocks that line the coast. + +The following account of SWAN RIVER is taken from Captain De Freycinet's +account of Baudin's voyage (page 175 et seq). + +"The mouth of Swan River is in latitude 32 degrees 4 minutes 31 seconds, +and longitude 113 degrees 26 minutes 28 seconds East of Paris, or (115 +degrees 46 minutes 43 seconds East of Greenwich). The channel is +obstructed by a bar of rocks, which it is very difficult to pass over, +and, indeed, impracticable if the wind blows from the sea. On entering, +the passage is on the starboard side: it is narrow and shoal, and divided +into two channels; in each of which there is from five to six feet of +water; after passing this, there is seven and eight feet: the course must +then be towards the west, to avoid two shoals, which are upon the right +bank: after half a mile the navigation is free, and in mid-channel the +depth is not less than seven, eight, and nine feet. The river then trends +in a northerly direction for seven miles, without any sinuosity of +consequence. On the eastern bank, are two shoals; the passage is then on +the opposite side of the river, the depth of which is eight feet: beyond +these banks the course of the river trends to the eastward towards a low +point, upon which there is a solitary tree; an extensive bank fronts this +point, and the channel continues on the western shore, ten feet deep. +Here the river is a mile broad; it then increases its width, and forms +spacious bays on either side, that were not examined. To the South-East +is an opening, which may probably be an arm of the river; it was called +MOREAU INLET; it was not examined. Opposite to it is a sharp point, +fronted by a shoal, and the channel is on the eastern side of the river, +with thirteen feet water. Here the river widens and forms a basin, two +miles and a half wide: a little above this the river is blocked up by +shoals and islets (HEIRISSON ISLES) between which the depth is not more +than two or three feet, but afterwards deepens gradually from five to +fifteen feet: the banks of the river are then not more than one-third of +a mile wide, and then continue in a serpentine course, with a channel +from seven to ten feet deep, and free from shoals, as far as the French +boats examined it. The stream of the river ran very slowly, and winds +through a valley, one side of which is abrupt and precipitous, and when +it ceases to be so on one side, the heights immediately appear on the +other." + +In front of this river is a group of islands, of which two only are of +large size, namely, ROTTNEST and BUACHE. We anchored on the north side of +the former, but broke the fluke, from the rocky nature of the bottom. On +the North-East side of the island, the anchorage is better, since it is +more sheltered. Rottnest Island is five miles long: it was discovered by +Vlaming in 1696. Its shores are very rocky and difficult to land upon, +particularly those of its northern side, which is fronted by rocks. Off +its north point there are some rocky islets, and on the north-east side a +convenient landing place in a sandy bay, where boats may put ashore with +great facility. The island is covered with a pine-like tree, which is +very good for fire-wood, but no fresh water was found in any part; the +French were equally unsuccessful in their search. The north-east point of +Rottnest Island is in 31 degrees 59 minutes 30 seconds South, and 115 +degrees 31 minutes 12 seconds East; and the variation 4 degrees 50 +minutes West. + +BUACHE ISLAND, according to Captain De Freycinet's account (page 170) is +equally difficult to land upon; it is well wooded, but destitute of fresh +water. + +To the south of CAPE PERON is a long range of sandy coast, for seventy +miles, to GEOGRAPHE BAY, which is open and exposed to the northward and +north-west; its western head is formed by Cape Naturaliste, a rocky +point, in latitude 33 degrees 27 minutes 30 seconds, and longitude 114 +degrees 57 minutes 53 seconds, beyond which the coast extends to the +southward, without any bays to Cape Leeuwin. Off the cape is Naturaliste +Reef, in latitude 33 degrees 12 minutes, and longitude 114 degrees 59 +minutes 8 seconds; it was seen by the French expedition. The land is here +of a moderate height, but of level aspect. There is a remarkable patch of +bare sand, in latitude 34 degrees 12 minutes, and longitude 114 degrees +57 minutes. It is the Tache blanche remarquable of De Freycinet's chart. +It lies about seven miles from the south extreme of the island. + +... + + +APPENDIX A. SECTION 6. + +OF THE WINDS AND WEATHER UPON THE SOUTH COAST. DIRECTIONS FOR KING GEORGE +THE THIRD'S SOUND, AND HYDROGRAPHICAL REMARKS RELATING TO BASS STRAIT. + +SOUTH COAST. + +Between the meridians of Cape Leeuwin and Bass Strait, the weather is +generally very unsettled and tempestuous; and, at certain seasons, very +much against a ship making the western passage from Port Jackson, which +is by passing through Bass Strait, and along the south coast; but it so +happens that at the time when ships cannot proceed through Torres Strait, +by reason of the Westerly Monsoon, namely, from the month of December to +that of March, easterly winds prevail upon the south coast, and are more +regular and strong in that space between the land and the parallel of +Bass Strait.* I have been told that the south-westerly gales that +sometimes occur during that season, seldom, if ever, blow home upon the +coast; and that when they do reach the land, they partake more of the +character of the sea breeze; be that as it may, a ship steering to the +westward should keep to the north of 40 degrees, in order to benefit by +the regularity of the wind, which to the south of that parallel generally +blows from some western quarter. From April to October the westerly gales +are very constant, and veer between South by West and North by East; but, +in the months of June and July, seldom veer to the southward of +South-West or northward of North-West; they are then accompanied by a +deep and heavy sea. The wind, in the summer season, generally revolves +with the sun, and, as the atmosphere becomes more dense, veers to the +South-East, with fine weather. + +(*Footnote. Horsburgh volume 2 page 506.) + +The marine barometer is here of considerable importance, as its rise +always precedes a south-east wind, and its fall a change from the +North-West; it seldom, however, stands lower than twenty-nine and a half +inches. The currents generally set to the north, and seldom run with any +velocity either to the east or west. A ship steering along this coast to +the eastward, bound to Port Jackson through Torres Strait, should steer +upon the parallel of 41 degrees, to avoid being thrown into the bight to +the west of Cape Northumberland, where with a South-East wind, that would +otherwise be fair for carrying her through Bass Strait, she would be +detained probably a week. + +Upon making Van Diemen's Land, she is ready for either a northerly or a +southerly wind; since, with the former, she can round Van Diemen's Land, +without suffering much detention, or materially lengthening her voyage. + +KING GEORGE THE THIRD'S SOUND was discovered by Captain Vancouver in the +year 1791, on his celebrated voyage to the North-west Coast of America. +It offers an excellent resort for vessels, and is convenient for all the +purposes of refitting, wooding, and watering. The natives are friendly; +the banks of Oyster Harbour afford a large abundance of oysters and other +shell-fish, and the harbours and rivers are well-stocked with fish and +birds. + +There are many convenient anchorages in the sound; the best place for a +large ship, when it is necessary to refit the rigging at the same time +that she is completing her wood and water, is PRINCESS ROYAL HARBOUR; but +for a small vessel, not drawing more than eleven feet, OYSTER HARBOUR is +preferable, because she is secured to within one hundred yards of the +shore, and therefore better situated for the protection of her people at +their occupations from the natives, who are numerous, and will daily +visit them. But, for a ship only wanting fuel and water, there is a sandy +bay in the south-west corner of the sound, in which two or three streams +of excellent water run into the sea over the sand, from which a ship +might complete her hold in a day or two, by digging a well to collect it. +Wood may also be procured at this place, but not of so large a size, or +perhaps of so good a quality as at other parts. This bay is readily +found, by its being the first to the westward of a rocky point, that +projects from some remarkable bare sand hillocks, as also from its being +the second sandy beach to the westward of the low flat rocky islet at the +back of Seal Island. + +The anchorage is good, being a bottom of sand and weeds, and is +sufficiently protected from easterly winds by BREAKSEA and MICHAELMAS +ISLANDS. The anchorage between SEAL ISLAND and the first sandy beach to +the westward of BALD HEAD, with the low flat rocky islet bearing west, in +six or seven fathoms sand and weeds, should be preferred during the +summer months; for the easterly winds then prevail, and sometimes blow +strong, even as late as March; the anchorage is landlocked, excepting in +the direction of East by North, the only quarter to which it is exposed, +and even in that direction the angle subtending the sea horizon is not +greater than ten degrees of the circle, which is of insignificant +consequence. + +There is no water nearer to this anchorage than in the sandy bay above +mentioned, but the distance is trifling for a ship that can send boats +with men enough to protect themselves while employed in filling the +casks, for notwithstanding the friendly communication we have had with +the inhabitants of this sound, they are not to be trusted, unless their +character is different from the rest of their countrymen that we have +seen. + +Water is procured at Princess Royal and Oyster Harbours by digging holes +at the edge of the sand under the hills; but, at the latter place, the +stream that we used outside the bar affords plenty, of excellent quality, +without the trouble of digging. + +Over the bar of Oyster Harbour there is not more than ten and a half feet +at low water, and in the neaps twelve feet at high water; but it is +likely that, at spring-tides, there may be fourteen feet, or perhaps more +if the wind is blowing into the harbour; but during the springs high +water always takes place at night, and it would not, therefore, be +prudent to attempt to pass the bar at that time. + +A vessel intending to go to Oyster Harbour should anchor off the sandy +beach immediately to the eastward of the entrance, that is, between the +breakers off the point and the bar, in three fathoms sand, bringing the +summit of Green Island, in the harbour, on with the extremity of the +bushes of the west point of entrance, and the highest part of Breaksea +Island in a line with the outer point of the bay: a boat should then be +sent to sound the bar. The mark for the deepest part is when the western +summit of some flat-topped land, at the back of Oyster Harbour, is a +little open of the rocks off the east side of the entrance. + +After the bar is passed, the channel is deepest when the centre of the +flat land is kept midway between the points of entrance, avoiding a spit +of rocks that projects from the rocky point at the west end of the +watering beach. The strongest winds are from the westward, and therefore +bower anchors should be placed to the south-west and north-west: warps +and the stream cable will be sufficient to secure her from easterly +winds, as the hills rise immediately over the vessel on that shore. If +the run of water outside the bar should fail, holes may be dug at the +edge of the grass, about three feet deep, which will yield a sufficient +quantity in two or three days for any vessel that can pass over it. + +The flood-tide in the entrance generally ran sixteen hours, and ebbed +eight hours. High water at full and change took place at 10 hours 10 +minutes at night; but on the bar the rise and fall was very irregular, +and a vessel going in should pay great attention to the depth, if her +draught is more than ten feet, for it sometimes rises suddenly two feet. +The spring-tides take place about the third or fourth day after new or +full moon. The variation here is about 7 degrees East. The situation of +Seal Island, from Captain Flinders' observations, is in latitude 35 +degrees 4 minutes 55 seconds, and longitude 117 degrees 58 minutes 7 +seconds. + +A small island was reported in the Sydney Gazette to have been seen in +latitude 36 degrees 27 minutes, and longitude 127 degrees 2 minutes East; +but as the account says, that Kangaroo Island was seen the same day, +which is not less than one hundred and fifty leagues from the above +position, it appears too vague to be correct. (See Horsburgh Supp. page +32.) + +BLACK PYRAMID, off the north-west end of Van Diemen's Land, in Bass +Strait, is situated about 4 minutes too much to the southward on Captain +Flinders' chart. + +BELL'S ROCK. The following account of a rock, seen by Mr. Bell, the +Commander of the ship Minerva, on her outward-bound passage to New South +Wales, appeared in a Sydney (New South Wales) Gazette, of the 16th of +December, 1824. + +"On the 14th of November the Minerva very narrowly escaped striking on a +rock, in the fairway of the west entrance to Bass Strait, on the south +side of King's Island. Reid's rocks bearing North six miles, and the +Black Pyramid East-South-East: from this situation the danger was about +half a mile off (to the southward); but as the water broke only at +intervals of three or four minutes, although the swell was very heavy, it +is probable there may be sufficient depth of water to carry a ship over +it. An indifferent observation made the latitude of the ship at the time +40 degrees 26 minutes." + +In M. De Freycinet's chart of Bass Strait, some rocky islets are placed +forty miles east of Sea-Elephant Bay. I did not succeed in finding them, +although the Mermaid sailed close to their position. (See volume 1.) + +The PYRAMID, at the east end of Bass Strait, is placed five miles too +much to the northward: its true situation is in latitude 39 degrees 52 +minutes 40 seconds, and longitude 147 degrees 11 minutes 30 seconds. + +A reef of rocks were seen by Lieutenant John Lamb, R.N., off Cape Albany +Otway. (See Horsburgh volume 2 page 499.) + +There appears to be a considerable difference in the positions assigned +to ALBATROSS ISLAND, by the French expedition and Captain Flinders; the +former made the difference between the meridian of Albatross Island, and +that of the rock in Sea-Elephant Bay, 24 minutes 45 seconds; whilst by +the latter it is 32 minutes 30 seconds. But as Captain Flinders only saw +the north end of KING'S ISLAND, the error seems to originate in his +having laid down its eastern side from other authorities, for his +difference of longitude between its north-west point and the centre of +Albatross Island only differs 2 minutes 30 seconds from the French, who +surveyed that island with great care. + +Several sunken rocks have been discovered from time to time near the +north end of GREAT ISLAND, so that ships, bound through Bass Strait to +the eastward, should not pass within Craggy Island without using great +caution. The best passage is on the south side of Kent's Group, between +it and the rocky islet (WRIGHT'S ROCK) to the south-east. + +In a line between the above rocky islet and Craggy Island, and about two +miles from the former, is a reef with two small rocks upon it. (See +Horsburgh Supp. page 32.) + +There are some considerable errors in Captain Flinders' chart of Van +Diemen's Land, with respect to the latitudes of the South-west Cape, the +Mewstone, the South cape, and the land between them. The first is laid +down 8 minutes too much to the North 30 degrees West (true) and the other +places in proportion. The corrected situations are given in the second +volume of this work. + +... + + +APPENDIX A. SECTION 7. + +DESCRIPTION OF THE SHOALS AND REEFS IN THE NEIGHBOURHOOD OF THE COASTS OF +AUSTRALIA. + +REEFS, EAST COAST. + +ELIZABETH'S REEF (see Horsburgh's Supp. page 52) in latitude 30 degrees 5 +minutes, and longitude 159 degrees, was discovered by the ships Claudine +and Marquis of Hastings, on the 16th of May, 1820. Within two cables' +length of the reef, they found fourteen fathoms; at a quarter of a mile +off the depth was twenty-five fathoms, but beyond that the bottom was not +reached. It is about three miles in circuit, with deep water in the +centre: the edge is covered, but some straggling rocky lumps show at +intervals above the surface of the water. The east side of the reef +extends about North-North-East and South-South-West for one mile, but the +greatest extent seemed to be West-North-West and East-South-East. + +MIDDLETON'S SHOAL is in latitude 29 degrees 14 minutes, and longitude 158 +degrees 53 minutes. (See Horsburgh volume 2 page 508.) + +CATO'S BANK is in latitude 23 degrees 6 minutes, and longitude 155 +degrees 23 minutes. (Flinders volume 2 page 298 and Horsburgh volume 2 +page 509.) + +WRECK REEF is in latitude 22 degrees 11 minutes 23 seconds, and longitude +155 degrees 18 minutes 50 seconds. (Flinders volume 2 page 330 and +Horsburgh volume 2 page 509.) + +CARNS, or MID-DAY REEF, was discovered by Mr. Carns, the master of the +ship Neptune, on the 21st of June, 1818, having taken a departure the day +before from Sandy Cape. It extends east and west for a considerable +distance: the ship passed round the western extremity at two miles off, +and found its bearing from Sandy Cape to be North 21 degrees East, one +hundred and seventy-six miles, and to be in latitude 21 degrees 58 +minutes, and longitude 154 degrees 20 minutes. Its eastern limit was not +seen: it consists of a string of sandbanks and rocks, from five to twenty +feet high, with passages between them. (Horsburgh Supp. page 35.) + +SIR JAMES SAUMAREZ' SHOAL was seen by Mr. Lihou; it is in latitude 21 +degrees 40 minutes, and longitude 153 degrees 46 minutes by chronometer, +which was found correct on making Sandy Cape a day or two afterwards. +There is reason to suppose that many other reefs exist to the North-West +of this position. + +KENN'S REEF, discovered by Mr. Alexander Kenn, Master of the ship William +Shand, on her passage from Sydney to Batavia, extends in the direction of +North West by North 1/2 North for ten miles, and is composed of sand and +rocks, some of which, at the south end, were six or eight feet out of the +water: it is six miles broad; the centre of the edge (? north) is in +latitude 21 degrees 9 minutes, and longitude 155 degrees 49 minutes (by +chronometer and lunars): it was found to bear South 67 degrees West, six +miles from Bird Islet, of Wreck Reef. + +BOOBY and BELLONA SHOALS. In the neighbourhood of these reefs, Lieutenant +John Lamb, R.N., Commander of the ship Baring, was embarrassed for three +days, in which interval he was sounding in between nineteen and +forty-five fathoms, and frequently passed shoal parts, upon which the sea +was breaking. The limits assigned by this officer to the extent of the +rocky ground, are the parallels of 20 degrees 40 minutes, and 21 degrees +50 minutes, and the meridians of 158 degrees 15 minutes and 159 degrees +30 minutes. A sandy islet was also seen by him, surrounded by a chain of +rocks in 21 degrees 24 1/2 minutes South, and 158 degrees 30 minutes +East. The ship Minerva also struck soundings in eight fathoms, with the +appearance of shoaler water to the South-West; this last danger is in a +line between the two shoals in about longitude 159 degrees 20 minutes. +(See Horsburgh Supp. page 35.) + +BAMPTON'S SHOAL is laid down in the shape of a horse-shoe, of not less +than forty-five miles in extent; on the north-east end are two islets +with trees. The AVON ISLES are probably near its south-west extremity: +they were seen by Mr. Sumner, Master of the ship Avon, September 18, +1823; and are described by him as being three-quarters of a mile in +circumference, twenty feet high, and the sea between them twenty fathoms +deep. At four miles North East by North from them the vessel sounded in +twelve fathoms, and at the same time saw a reef ten or fifteen miles to +the South-East, with deep water between it and the islets. A boat landed +on the south-westernmost islet, and found it inhabited only by birds, but +clothed with shrubs and wild grapes. By observation, these islands were +found to lie in latitude 19 degrees 40 minutes, and longitude 158 degrees +6 minutes. + +A reef is laid down in M. Krusenstern's Atlas of the Pacific Ocean (1824) +in latitude 17 degrees, and longitude 156 degrees, and is there called +MELLISH REEF. + +A REEF was seen by the ship FREDERICK, the north-east extremity of which +is laid down in latitude 20 degrees 44 minutes, and longitude 150 degrees +32 minutes; it is of semi-circular shape, and extends as far south as 21 +degrees 2 minutes, and appears to be nearly twenty miles wide. + +VINE'S HORSE-SHOE SHOAL; its northernmost end is in latitude 20 degrees 5 +minutes, and longitude 151 degrees 50 minutes: it presents its convex, or +outer edge, to the Southward, and extends as far as fifteen miles to the +South and East. + +DIANA'S BANK is placed in latitude 15 degrees 38 minutes, and longitude +150 degrees 28 minutes. (Horsburgh volume 2 page 509.) + +BETWEEN the parallels of 16 degrees 50 minutes and 17 degrees 45 minutes, +and the meridians of 150 degrees 30 minutes and 152 degrees 30 minutes, +there are several very extensive reefs, various parts of which have been +seen, according to the following accounts. + +Lieutenant Vine saw a DRY BANK in latitude 17 degrees 46 minutes, and +longitude 151 degrees 40 minutes. See the account of the shoal described +by M. Tregrosse. + +Mr. Brodie, Commander of the brig Alert, in October, 1817, saw A REEF +extending for a considerable distance in a North-East and South-West +direction. The Alert ran along the reef for twenty-five miles: about the +centre Mr. Brodie saw two sand islets in latitude 17 degrees 2 minutes, +and longitude 151 degrees 49 minutes. + +LIHOU'S SHOAL, probably a part of the above reefs seen by Lieutenant Vine +and from the Alert, lies in latitude 17 degrees 25 minutes, and longitude +151 degrees 45 minutes: it is forty-six miles in length, and lies +North-North-East and South-South-West. + +A very extensive RANGE OF SHOALS and ISLETS was seen by M. Tregrosse, of +the French brig Les Trois Freres, in company with the brig Jessie, in +1821, according to the subjoined account. + +On the 19th June, the two brigs in company fell in with a range of reefs, +terminated to the eastward by two sandy islets, the easternmost of which +is in 151 degrees 47 minutes (149 degrees 27 minutes East of Paris); the +vessels hauled to the wind immediately, but finding they could not pass +to windward, bore up, and ran along the shoal from eight a.m. to four +p.m., at the distance of a league and a half. Altogether they counted +seven islets, three of which were covered with shrubs, and the whole +connected by a reef, on the edge of which the sea broke heavily: they +were called GOVERNOR FARQUHAR'S GROUP: the westernmost islet is in 17 +degrees 39 minutes, and 151 degrees 27 minutes (149 degrees 7 minutes +East of Paris) and appeared to terminate the group. As it was near +sunset, the vessels hauled to the wind for the night, and at daylight +bore up on a north course: soon afterwards they saw an islet +West-North-West; they, however, continued to steer North until eight +o'clock, and then, having run nine miles, saw another island +North-North-East. On attempting to steer between the isles, they were +found to be connected, and having sounded in eleven fathoms, the vessels +bore up, and steered between the westernmost islet and two extensive +reefs, through a passage five or six miles wide, that appeared to be +clear. + +The westernmost islet is in 17 degrees 42 minutes South, and 150 degrees +43 minutes East (148 degrees 23 minutes East of Paris) and the +westernmost reef, in 17 degrees 44 minutes South, and 150 degrees 32 +minutes East (148 degrees 12 minutes East of Paris). A space of ten or +twelve leagues between Governor Farquhar's Group and that seen the +preceding day was passed in the night, and probably may contain other +reefs. The last group was named TREGROSSE'S ISLETS. + +NORTH COAST. + +The ALERT struck on a shoal to the westward of Torres Strait in 1817; it +seemed to be about two hundred fathoms in length, and about fifty yards +broad: it is in latitude 9 degrees 52 minutes, and longitude 140 degrees +50 minutes. + +In the vicinity of Cape Van Diemen there are many submarine coral banks, +that are not yet shoal enough to be called reefs; that which Captain +Flinders saw, and sounded upon in seven fathoms, lies in 9 degrees 56 +minutes latitude, and 129 degrees 28 minutes longitude. The Alert also +passed over a shoal patch with nine fathoms in 10 degrees 1 minute South, +and 129 degrees 8 minutes East. + +NORTH-WEST COAST. + +SAHUL BANK is but very imperfectly known, and its extent by no means so +large as is laid down upon the chart. In that interval, however, there +are probably many reefs, which have been occasionally seen. Captain +Heywood saw a dry part in latitude 11 degrees 35 minutes and longitude +124 degrees 10 minutes, and there are shoal soundings in crossing it on +the following parts, namely: + +COLUMN 1: SOUNDINGS OVER CORAL REEF IN FATHOMS. +COLUMN 2: LATITUDE. +COLUMN 3: LONGITUDE. + +12 : 11 degrees 21 minutes : 125 degrees 23 minutes. +16 : 11 degrees 10 minutes : 125 degrees 27 minutes. +12 : 11 degrees 7 minutes : 125 degrees 30 minutes. +15 : 10 degrees 57 minutes : 125 degrees 34 minutes. + +All of which are detached and separated by deep water. (See Horsburgh +volume 1 page 103.) + +CARTIER ISLAND, seen in 1800 by the ship Cartier, is a dry sand bank +surrounded by a shoal extending for four miles to the northward. It is in +12 degrees 29 minutes South, and 123 degrees 56 minutes East, by +chronometer. + +Captain Heywood in 1801 saw the following reefs. The centre of one in +latitude 12 degrees 48 minutes, and longitude 124 degrees 25 minutes; and +the other in 13 degrees 29 minutes, and 124 degrees 5 minutes. + +HIBERNIA SHOAL, seen by Mr. Samuel Ashmore, Commander of the ship +Hibernia, consists of two small sandbanks in the centre of a shoal, four +miles in extent, lying in an east and west direction. It is in latitude +11 degrees 56 minutes, and longitude 123 degrees 28 minutes, by +chronometers. + +Mr. Ashmore also saw another shoal in 1811, the particulars of which are +detailed in the following letter. + +"The north-east end of the shoal, fell in with on the 11th June, 1811, by +a good noon observation, is in 12 degrees 11 minutes South, longitude by +chronometer 122 degrees 58 minutes 30 seconds (allowing the south head of +Port Jackson to be in 151 degrees 25 minutes 25 seconds). To the westward +of the barrier of black rocks, that presented themselves to our view, +were several sandbanks, the highest of which, on the east end, appeared +to have some vegetation: the rocks in general were six or eight feet +above the water and the surf broke violently on the North-East and +South-East points in view. The shoal trends in a West by North direction +for six or seven miles," It is distinguished on the chart by the name of +ASHMORE'S SHOAL. + +SCOTT'S REEF (see Horsburgh volume 1 page 102) was discovered by Captain +Heywood, R.N., in 1811: the north-west end is in latitude 13 degrees 52 +1/2, and longitude 121 degrees 59 minutes; thence it extends South 16 +degrees East for eighteen or nineteen miles to the north-east point, in +latitude 14 degrees 1 minute, and longitude 122 degrees 16 minutes; the +south extent was not ascertained. It is ninety-seven miles due East from +the situation assigned to Dampier's Rocks. The Cartier also struck upon a +shoal hereabouts, and Captain Horsburgh seems to think that there is +little doubt of Scott's Reef being the same that Dampier saw, as well as +that on which the Cartier struck. + +ROWLEY'S SHOALS consist of three separate reefs, the westernmost is the +Imperieuse, the middle Clerke's, and the north-easternmost the Mermaid's. +The Imperieuse is ten miles in length from north to south, and its +greatest breadth five miles: it is surrounded by very deep water and near +the eastern edge, in latitude 17 degrees 35 minutes, and longitude 118 +degrees 51 minutes, are some dry rocks. Clerke's Shoal (south end in +latitude 17 degrees 28 minutes, longitude 119 degrees 18 minutes) extends +to the north-west, and probably joins the Minstrel's Shoal, which is +described below, and, if this is the case, trends North-North-West 1/2 +West for seventeen miles. The south end of Mermaid's Shoal is in 17 +degrees 12 minutes South, and 119 degrees 35 minutes East, and extends to +the northward for seven miles; but its termination in that direction was +not seen. The edges of all these reefs are steep to; and no bottom was +obtained with one hundred and eighty fathoms. Within the reefs, however, +there is a bank of soundings of the depth of from one hundred and seventy +to one hundred and twenty fathoms. (See Horsburgh volume 1 page 101.) + +MINSTREL'S SHOAL (see Horsburgh's Supp. page 52) its north-east end is in +17 degrees 14 minutes South, and 118 degrees 57 minutes East, or 5 +degrees 28 minutes East by chronometer, from the coast of New Holland in +latitude 23 degrees 10 minutes South. The longitude of that part of the +coast by my survey, is 113 degrees 42 minutes; this will make the +Minstrel's Shoal in 119 degrees 10 minutes, which agrees very well with +Clerke's Reef, the centre reef of Rowley's Shoals, of which it is +certainly the north end; so Captain Horsburgh also supposes. + +A ship called the LIVELY was wrecked on a coral reef in about 16 degrees +30 minutes South, and 119 degrees 35 minutes East. + +RITCHIE'S REEF, or the Greyhound's Shoal. The situation of this reef is +recorded by Captain Horsburgh (see Supp. page 38) to be in latitude 19 +degrees 58 minutes, and longitude 114 degrees 40 1/4 minutes; but, by a +letter published in the Sydney Gazette by Lieutenant Ritchie, R.N., the +commander, it would appear to be in 20 degrees 17 minutes 40 seconds, +longitude by lunars 114 degrees 46 minutes 6 seconds. + +ROCK OFF VAN DIEMEN'S LAND. + +The Russian ship RURICK, in 1822, saw a dry rock above water off the +south-east coast of Van Diemen's Land, in latitude 44 degrees, and +longitude 147 degrees 45 minutes. + +A rock was also seen by the ship LORD SIDMOUTH in 1819, in latitude 43 +degrees 48 minutes, and longitude 147 degrees 15 minutes. + +... + + +APPENDIX A. SECTION 8. + +DIRECTIONS FOR THE PASSAGE WITHIN THE REEFS THROUGH TORRES STRAIT. + +INNER ROUTE. + +The passage recommended by Captain Flinders for passing through Torres +Strait us by entering the reefs at Murray's Island; by which route a +two-days' passage will carry a ship past all danger: but, as the space +between Wreck Reef and Murray's Island is strewed with dangers, many of +which have been discovered since the publication of his charts, and of +which the greater number have only been recently seen, it cannot be +called a safe navigation. The dangers consist of low coral islands, +surrounded by extensive reefs, upon which in long and dark nights a +vessel is in momentary danger of striking; the result of which must be +the certain destruction of the vessel, and the probable loss of the crew. +The Inner Route was first pursued by Mr. Cripps in the brig Cyclops, +bound from Port Jackson to Bengal, in 1812. It was subsequently followed +by Lieutenant C. Jeffreys, R.N., in the command of the hired armed vessel +Kangaroo, on her passage from Port Jackson to Ceylon, in 1815.* This +officer drew a chart, with a track of his voyage up the coast; which, +considering the shortness of his time, and other circumstances that +prevented his obtaining the necessary data to lay down with accuracy so +intricate and dangerous a passage, does him very great credit; he filled +up the space between Endeavour River and Cape Direction, which Captain +Cook did not see; the only part that had previously been left a blank +upon the chart of New South Wales; his outline was found to be tolerably +correct, and my alterations have only been caused by better +opportunities, and by the greater detail of my operations. The general +feature of the coast has scarcely required correction; the principal +corrections have been in the number, size, and relative bearings of the +coral reefs and islands that front it. + +(*Footnote. Horsburgh's Indian Directory volume 2 page 514.) + +In describing this route, the whole of the bearings are magnetic; and the +courses are freed from the effect of tide or current, since they are only +temporary, and often of trifling importance.* + +(*Footnote. In following these directions, reference should be made to +the description of the coast contained in this Appendix.) + +DIRECTIONS. + +Having hauled round Breaksea Spit (see Flinders' chart sheet 3) in the +evening, it would perhaps be dangerous to steer on through the night; +after running, therefore, to the West-North-West for five or six leagues, +bring to until daylight: but, if the day is before you, the course from +the extremity of the spit is West-North-West 1/4 West for about a hundred +miles. You will then be about twenty miles from Cape Capricorn: on your +way to which you should pass about three miles within Lady Elliot's +Island, and also within the southernmost islet of Bunker's Group, by +which you will see how the current has affected your course, and you can +act accordingly: if it has set you to the northward, you may pass on +either side of or through the islands without danger. After making Cape +Capricorn, you may leave it at a convenient distance, and, directing your +course about North West by North, pass either within or without the +Peaked and Flat Islands off Port Bowen; then, steering for the Percy +Group, pass between the 2nd and 3rd Northumberland Islands. + +After passing the latter, avoid a low dangerous rock, that bears from it +North 8 degrees East five miles and three-quarters, and from 1st Peak +South 85 degrees West. To avoid this in the night, pass close round +Number 3, when, its situation being known, you can easily avoid it. + +The channel is safe on either side of the Percy Isles, but that to the +westward of them, being better known, is therefore recommended as the +safest. Then steer either over the Mermaid's or Bathurst's tracks, which +will carry a ship round the projections of the coast as far as Cape +Grafton, as far as which, if the weather is fine, there can be no danger +of proceeding through the night; but it must be recollected, that at Cape +Grafton the coral reefs approach the coast, and, consequently, great care +must be used. + +On reaching Fitzroy Island, round it at a mile off shore, and, when its +north end bears West, steer North-West 1/2 North for thirty-five miles; +you will then be a league to the South-East of a group of low isles; if +it should be night when you pass them, come no nearer to them than +fourteen fathoms. In steering this course, great care should be taken, +not to go too much to the eastward to avoid the reef which the Tamar saw. +(See above.) + +If the moon is up the islets will be readily distinguished, but otherwise +it would be more prudent to wait for daylight. This course will carry a +ship over two of my tracks, and the soundings will be in seventeen, +eighteen, and nineteen fathoms. From the low isles direct your course for +the Hope Islands, which bear from the former North 18 degrees West +thirty-eight miles, but the course had better be within that line, to +avoid some reefs in latitude 15 degrees 51 minutes: pass, therefore, +within five miles of Cape Tribulation, when a direct course may be +steered either to the eastward or westward of the Hope Isles. The better +route will be within the western Hope, and along its reef at the distance +of three-quarters of a mile, by which you will avoid reef a. When you are +abreast of its north end, steer North by West westerly for twenty-eight +miles; this will carry you to Cape Bedford which you may round at from +one to three or four miles. You will see in your way, at three miles and +a half from the north end of the Hope Reef, reef b; and at fifteen miles +from it you will be abreast of e; and five miles farther on you will pass +Captain Cook's Turtle Reef, which has a dry sand at its north end. These +three reefs will be to the eastward of your course. + +The current sets to the North-West, so that your course must be directed +accordingly. In coasting along the shore, you will discern the summits +which are marked on the chart. The high conical hill, on the south side +of the entrance of Endeavour River, is Mount Cook, bearings of which, +crossed with the summit of Cape Bedford, or any of the particularized +summits or points will give the vessel's place, by which the effects of +the current, which is generally very slight, will be perceived: on one +occasion we found a current in the space between the Endeavour Reef and +Turtle Reef of two miles an hour to the North-West. + +Being off Cape Bedford, and steering to the North 1/2 West, you will see +the Three Isles ahead: steer between them and the low wooded island; and +direct your course round Cape Flattery and Point Lookout, to anchor under +the Turtle Group, unless you have time before dark to reach the islands +4, 5, or 6, of Howick's Group. Under which anchorage may be found. In +rounding Point Lookout, do not come within two miles and a half of it, to +avoid a reef that is on Captain Cook's chart, but which we did not see; +it lies a mile and a half north from the peaked hill at the extremity of +the point. You may pass without the Turtle Group, or you will find +anchorage under Lizard Island, but this is not recommended, both because +the wind is generally fresher as you increase your distance from the +shore, and because it lengthens the distance. + +From the Turtle Group steer North West by West 1/2 West until you see the +hillock at the south-east end of Number 1 of Howick's Group: then pass +inside and within a mile of 2 and 3, and between islet 4 and Cole's +Islands, and inshore of 6 and the dry sands s, t, and u. The Mermaid's +track will direct the course to Cape Melville. If the day is late when +abreast of 6, of Howick's Group, anchorage had better be secured under +it, as there is none to be recommended between it and Cape Flinders. + +Upon rounding Cape Melville, the Islands of Flinders' Group will be seen; +and as soon as you have passed round the stony reef that projects off the +Cape (the extremity of which bears from it by compass North West by +North, and from Pipon's Island South-West by West 1/4 West nearly) in +doing which steer within the reef that surrounds Pipon Island, direct the +course for the extremity of the islands, which is Cape Flinders; the +course and distance being West 3/4 South nearly thirteen miles: on this a +low woody island will be left on the starboard hand. + +His Majesty's sloop Satellite, in 1822, grounded upon a small reef, +bearing North by East (easterly) from the extremity of the cape, distant +about two miles; but, as a ship may pass within a stone's throw of the +cape, this danger may be easily avoided. The best anchorage here is under +the flat-topped hill, at a third of a mile from the shore, in ten +fathoms, muddy bottom. In hauling round the cape, avoid a shoal which +extends for a short distance from the shore on its western side. + +If the day is not far advanced, and you have time to run fifteen miles +further, the ship may proceed to the reef d; but, indeed, anchorage may +be obtained under any of the reefs or islets between this part and Cape +Grenville, for the bottom is universally of mud; and by anchoring with +the body of a reef, bearing South-East, the vessel is sufficiently +sheltered from the sea, which is generally smooth. + +On leaving Cape Flinders, steer West 3/4 North for about twenty-three +miles, leaving the reefs c and g to seaward, and d, e, and f to the +southward, of the course; then haul up about North-West 3/4 North, and +steer within the reef l and Pelican Island, and to seaward of the +Claremont Islands 1 and 2, which are low and woody. + +When abreast of 2, the south-west end of the reef m will be seen, which +should be passed at from one to two miles, and the course North by West +1/4 West will carry you to 4 and 5, which you may pass on either side of, +the channel between them being quite safe. If you take the latter course, +steer north, within the reef o, and then close within 6, to avoid the low +rock that covers with the tide. Having passed this rock, steer for 7, and +pass within one mile of it, to avoid the shoals that extend off Cape +Sidmouth. Hence the course is North-North-West towards Night Island; and, +when abreast of it, steer North 1/2 West until near the covered shoal v, +when the course may be directed within Sherrard's Islets and reef 10 (on +which there is a sandy islet covered with some bushes) and then steer +round Cape Direction. + +Hence the course North-North-West 1/4 West will carry you within the +reefs y, z, a, b, and c, and without the rocky islet that lies off +Restoration Island: continuing this course you will, at about five miles +beyond the cape, see the long reef e; steer North-West parallel with its +edge, which extends until you are abreast of Fair Cape, where it +terminates with a very narrow point. Then steer North-West 1/2 North, and +pass between the two easternmost Piper's Islands and the reefs h, i, and +k; then pass on either side of l and m, inshore of Haggerston's Island, +and round the outermost of Sir Everard Home's Group. + +The anchorages between Cape Flinders and this are so numerous as not to +require particular mention: the north-west end of every reef will afford +shelter; but the anchor should not be dropped too near, because the tide +sweeps round the edge with greater strength than it does at half a mile +off, within which distance the bottom is generally deeper. If the day is +advanced and the breeze fresh, Night Island should not be passed: because +the anchorages between it and Piper's Islands are rather exposed; and a +vessel getting underweigh from Night Island at daylight will easily reach +Piper's Islands, or Margaret Bay, before dark. + +The latter bay is round Cape Grenville; it is fronted by Sunday Island, +which affords good shelter from the wind: it is a safe place to stop at. + +In passing round Sir Everard Home's Islands, steer wide from them, to +avoid the tide drifting you towards the group, for it sets to the +North-West across the course. The course is then about North-West 1/4 +West to the Bird Isles, and thence, to the reef v, about North West by +North; the better and more direct plan is to pass within v and w (there +is, however, a safe channel between them) and when abreast of the west +end of the latter, the course to Cairncross Island is North by West 1/2 +West, and the distance about eighteen miles. + +There not being any very good anchorage between this and Cape York, it +would be perhaps better to anchor under it for the night, in about +fourteen or fifteen fathoms, mud, the island bearing South-East, but not +nearer than half a mile, because, within that distance, the bottom is +rocky. + +Leaving Cairncross Island, steer North-North-West 1/4 West until Escape +River is abreast of you, when look out for reef x: steer within it about +North West by North, which will take you inside the covered reef z. Your +course then must be round the Albany Islands, and hence North West by +North for a, which is a rocky islet that may be seen from abreast the +Albany Isles. + +The passage through the Possession Isles and Endeavour Strait is not to +be recommended for a large ship, on account of the shoal water that +extends from Wallis' Isles towards Shoal Cape; but the route round the +north end of Wednesday and Hammond's Islands is preferable. Upon passing +reef a, Wednesday Island will be seen: in steering towards it, avoid +standing too close to the rocky islet that is abreast of the strait +between it and Horned Hill, as some sunken rocks stretch off it for about +a quarter of a mile: steer round the north point of Wednesday Island at +half a mile, and then West by South 1/4 South which will carry you to the +northward of the rock off Hammond's Island. Having passed this rock, +steer South-West by West; and when abreast of the south-west end of +Hammond's Island, haul towards a reef, to the southward of the course, on +which you will see some dry rocks, which you may pass within half a mile +of: you will then avoid reef d, which is generally, if not always, +covered: the fairway of this channel is seven and eight fathoms deep. + +When the summit of Good's Island bears South-West by West, steer West by +South southerly for Booby Island, by which you will avoid Larpent's bank, +and when you have passed it, you are clear of the strait. Hence you may +steer West 3/4 South through the night, on which course you will very +gradually deepen your water. + +... + + +APPENDIX A. SECTION 9. + +TABLE: DIP OF THE MAGNETIC NEEDLE, OBSERVED DURING THE MERMAID'S AND +BATHURST'S VOYAGES UPON THE COAST OF AUSTRALIA. + +COLUMN 1: DATE. +COLUMN 2: PLACE. +COLUMN 3: LATITUDE SOUTH IN DEGREES MINUTES SECONDS. +COLUMN 4: LONGITUDE EAST IN DEGREES MINUTES SECONDS. +COLUMN 5: DIP OF THE NEEDLE IN DEGREES MINUTES SECONDS. +COLUMN 6: NORTH OR SOUTH END. +COLUMN 7: VARIATION IN DEGREES MINUTES SECONDS. +COLUMN 8: REMARKS. + +1817. October 9, November 28 : Port Jackson, East Coast : 33 51 : 151 15 +: 62 1 30 : South : 8 42 East : Observed on shore, on the north side of +Sydney Cove. + +1819. January : Hobart Town, Van Diemen's Land : 42 54 : 147 27 : 70 7 00 +: South : 9 00 East : Observed on shore. + +June 16 : Cleveland Bay, East Coast : 19 10 : 146 56 : 44 6 40 : South : +5 12 1/2 East : Two observations made at the extremity of the cape. + +July : Endeavour River, East Coast : 15 27 : 145 11 : 38 00 00 : South : +5 27 East : Taken at the tent. + +1818. April : Goulburn Island, North Coast : 11 38 : 133 20 : 27 32 30 : +South : 2 0 East : Taken on Bottle Rock, in South-west Bay. + +1820. October : Careening Bay, North-west Coast : 15 6 1/4 : 125 0 : 38 +44 36 : South : 0 43 1/2 West : Taken at the tent. + +Dip of the Needle at Port Louis, Simon's Bay, and various parts of the +Atlantic Ocean, observed upon the Bathurst's return to England. + +1821. November : Port Louis, Mauritius : 20 10 : 57 29 East : 51 42 : +South : 12 00 West : On shore. + +1823. February : Simon's Bay, Cape of Good Hope : 34 11 2/3 : 18 28 1/2 : +48 23 1/2 : - : 28 to 30 : On shore. + +February 9 : False Bay 5 minutes East-South-East of Simon's Bay : - : - : +48 48 : - : 28 to 30 : On the binnacle. + +February 14 : At Sea : 27 18 : 8 50 : 37 57 1/2 : - : 24 00 : On the +binnacle. + +February 16 : At Sea : 23 47 : 4 2 : 30 10 : - : 24 00 : This observation +is correct to 3/4 degree. + +The situation for the above observation bears East 5 degrees North from +the place where the same dip was observed by M. Perouse on the Coast of +Brazil. + +February 20 : At Sea : 17 7 : 4 57 West : 15 42 1/2 : - : 21 9 : Correct +to 1/2 degree. + +The above situation bears East 16 1/2 degrees North from the place where +Commodore Baudin observed the dip of 15 degrees; and East 14 degrees +North from the observation of 14 degrees by M. Perouse. + +February 24 : At Sea, four leagues North-North-West from St. Helena : - : +- : 11 45 : - : 20 35 : Correct to 1/2 degree. + +February 26 : At Sea : 14 25 : 7 53 : 7 56 1/4 : - : 18 54 : Correct to +1/2 degree. + +1823. February 27 : At Sea : 12 42 South : 9 21 West : 3 6 3/4 : South : +18 28 West : -. + +Upon placing the instrument with the end marked 180 degrees in the +direction of North 45 degrees East the needle dipped 4 30. + +Upon placing the instrument with the end marked 180 degrees in the +direction of North 67 East the needle dipped 11 30. + +Upon placing the instrument with the end marked 180 degrees in the +direction of North 78 East the needle dipped 14 30. + +Upon placing the instrument with the end marked 180 degrees in the +direction of North 85 East the needle dipped 18 15. + +Upon placing the instrument with the end marked 180 degrees in the +direction of North 88 East the needle dipped 20 0. + +Upon placing the instrument with the end marked 180 degrees in the +direction of North 91 East the needle dipped 25 0. + +Upon placing the instrument with the end marked 180 degrees in the +direction of North 92 1/2 East it was vertical. + +Upon placing the instrument with the end marked 180 degrees in the +direction of North 95 East the needle shifted on the opposite side to 65 +0. + +Upon placing the instrument with the end marked 180 degrees in the +direction of South 45 East the needle shifted on the opposite side to 3 +40. + +Upon placing the instrument with the end marked 180 degrees in the +direction of South 45 West the needle shifted on the opposite side to 3 +0. + +Upon placing the instrument with the end marked 180 degrees in the +direction North 45 West the needle shifted on the opposite side to 5 30. + +The mean of the observation, on placing either end North and South was 3 +6 3/4 degrees. + +The mean of the observation, on placing either end North-East and +South-West was 3 45. + +The mean of the observation, on placing either end South-East and +North-West was 4 35. + +1823. February 28 : At Sea : 11 44 South : 10 12 West : 1 25 : South : 17 +to 18 West : -. + +Upon placing the instrument in the direction of North 45 East the needle +dipped 2 10. + +Upon placing the instrument in the direction of North 60 East the needle +dipped 2 50. + +Upon placing the instrument in the direction of North 70 East the needle +dipped 4 25. + +Upon placing the instrument in the direction of North 80 East the needle +dipped 5 15. + +Upon placing the instrument in the direction of North 90 East the needle +dipped 8 15. + +Upon placing the instrument in the direction of North 92 East the needle +dipped 14 00. + +Upon placing the instrument in the direction of South 60 East the needle +shifted. + +Upon placing the instrument in the direction of South 45 East the needle +shifted 2 20. + +Upon placing the instrument in the direction of South 45 West the needle +shifted 1 40. + +Upon placing the instrument in the direction of North 45 West the needle +shifted 1 00. + +Mean when placed at North-East and North-East 1 55. + +Mean when placed at North-West and South-East 1 40. + +February 28 : At Sea : 11 30 1/2 : 10 20 : 0 45 : South : 17 to 18 West : +-. + +February 28 : At Sea : 11 5 1/2 : 10 34 : 0 15 : North : 17 to 18 West : +-. + +From the above observations, it would appear that the Magnetic Equator +crosses the meridian of 10 1/2 degrees West, in 11 degrees 12 minutes +South latitude. At the latter observation--when the direction of the +instrument was changing, the needle remained quite stationary, the south +end of the needle pointing to the north, until the change was effected; +it remained in this position for two seconds of time, and then suddenly +shifted to the opposite, its proper, direction; its movements were, +however, very sluggish and irregular in its shifting end for end. The day +was so rainy that no observation could be made for the variation of the +compass. + +March 1 : At Sea : 10 1 South : 11 31 West : 3 32 1/2 : North : 17 44 +West : -. + +March 2 : At Sea : 8 21 South : 12 57 : 6 50 : North : 18 00 : -. + +March 5 : At Sea : 7 3 South : 15 42 : 11 22 1/2 : North : 16 5 : -. + +March 7 : At Sea : 4 17 South : 18 50 : 19 15 : North : 13 18 : -. + +March 9 : At Sea : 0 0 1/3 South : 22 6 1/4 : 27 45 : North : 12 51 : -. + +March 24 : At Sea : 17 4 North : 35 40 : 54 23 3/4 : North : 11 3 : +Correct to 3/4 degree. + +March 31 : At Sea : 29 33 North : 38 35 : 65 25 : North : 10 59 : Correct +to 1 degree. + +... + + +APPENDIX A. SECTION 10. + +UPON THE GEOGRAPHICAL POSITIONS OF THE FIXED POINTS OF THE SURVEY. + +The observations for determining the longitudes of the various parts of +the coast were taken with a circle and a sextant by Troughton: besides +these valuable instruments we had three chronometers of Arnold's make, +namely, 413 (box) 2054 (pocket) and 394 (pocket); of which the two first +were supplied by the Admiralty. At the end of the fourth year, in +consequence of 394 having stopped, a fourth chronometer, made by +Parkinson and Frodsham (Number 287 box) was purchased in the colony, and +proved to be a most excellent watch. + +The situations of the following places, which were either fixed by us or +adapted from other authorities, served as the basis of the chronometrical +determination of the longitudes of the intermediate parts. + +The flagstaff of FORT MACQUARIE on the north-east head of Sydney Cove in +PORT JACKSON (the Cattle Point of Flinders, and otherwise Bennelong +Point) is in latitude 33 degrees 51 minutes 28 seconds South and +longitude 151 degrees 15 minutes 26 East, being, according to the ensuing +table, the mean of all the observations that have been taken. + +Latitude (in degrees minutes seconds) observed by: + +Captain Flinders, in 1795 and 1802: 33 51 45.6. +De Freycinet in 1802: 33 51 21. +King (reduced) 1817: 33 51 18. +Sir T. Brisbane (reduced) 1822: 33 51 30. + +Mean Latitude of Fort Macquarie 33 51 28. + +Longitude (in degrees minutes seconds) observed by: + +Captain Cook, reduced from his observations at Botany Bay, 1770: 151 11 +32. +Captain Hunter, 1788: 151 19 43. +Lieutenant Dawes 1788: 151 18 50. +Lieutenant Bradley: 151 20 38. +Malespina: 151 17 53. +Messrs. Broughton and Crosley, 1795: 151 9 3. +Captain Flinders, 1795-6: 151 17 12. +Ditto 1802: 151 11 49. +Captain De Freycinet, 1802: 151 8 32. +M. D'Espinosa by an eclipse of sun and occultation of Jupiter 1st and 2nd +Satellites, 1793: 151 12 45. +Governor Bligh, 1806, eclipse of sun: 151 17 49. +Captain P.P. King, 1817, eclipse of sun, calculated by Mr. Rumker: 151 17 +29. +Sir Thomas Brisbane, 1822 (the mean of six eclipses places his +observatory in 151 degrees 15 minutes 20 seconds): 151 15 32. +Mr. Rumker, eclipse of sun at Parramatta, reduced to Fort Macquarie: 151 +17 30. + +Mean Longitude of Fort Macquarie 151 15 26. + +PERCY ISLAND (Number 2). The longitude of the south-west end of this +island is by Captain Flinders' observation in 150 degrees 13 minutes +East. + +ENDEAVOUR RIVER. The observatory, which was placed within a few yards of +the shore on the south side of the entrance (the summit of the highest +bush near the extremity of the opposite sandy beach, bearing by compass +West 3 degrees 40 minutes South) was found to be situated in latitude 15 +degrees 27 minutes 4 seconds, and longitude 145 degrees 10 minutes 49 +seconds. (See note, Appendix A.) + +GOULBURN ISLANDS. The observations were taken upon Bottle Rock, the +largest of two rocky islets at the north end of South-west Bay; but the +results were so doubtful and unsatisfactory, that the longitude +determined by the chronometers was preferred. The following are the +observations that were taken to fix its situation, namely: + +Latitude by fourteen meridional altitudes of the sun l. l. on the +sea-horizon, taken in various parts of the bay, and reduced by survey to +Bottle Rock 11 37 24. + +The difference of longitude between Bottle Rock and Cassini Island by +chronometers, taken in: + +1819: 7 40 47. +1820: 7 40 00. +1821: 7 38 28. + +Mean difference between Cassini Island and Bottle Rock: 7 39 45. + +Longitude of Cassini Island from Careening Bay, by survey: 125 38 46. + +Longitude of Bottle Rock, by chronometer, from Cassini Island: 133 18 31. + +The mean of the results of the lunar distances that were taken during the +years 1818 and 1819, gave for the longitude of the rock 133 degrees 31 +minutes 58 seconds East. On our last voyage the mean of the Bathurst's +and Dick's watches made it 133 degrees 19 minutes 40 seconds, which was +finally adapted, since it accorded better with the chronometrical +difference between its meridian and that of Cassini Island. I have never +been able to account for this extraordinary disagreement between the +results of the lunar distances and the chronometers, since the former +were taken with the sun on both sides of the moon, and seemed to be very +good. + +CAREENING BAY. This place was fixed by a series of observations, in +latitude 15 degrees 6 minutes 18 seconds South, and 125 degrees 0 minutes +46 seconds East. (See Appendix A. in a note.) + +KING GEORGE THE THIRD'S SOUND. The longitude of this place was adapted +from the observations and survey of Captain Flinders, as follows; namely: + +The tent on the east shore of the entrance of Oyster Harbour. Latitude 35 +degrees 0 minutes 17 seconds, and longitude 117 degrees 56 minutes 22 +seconds. + +The sandy beach under the low part of the land of Bald Head (the first +sandy bay round the head) is in latitude 35 degrees 6 minutes, and +longitude 117 degrees 58 minutes 6 seconds. + +COEPANG, in the Island of Timor. The situation of the flag-staff of FORT +CONCORDIA, where our chronometers were rated, is in latitude 10 degrees 9 +minutes 6 seconds, and longitude 123 degrees 35 minutes 46 seconds, +according to the observations of Captain Flinders. + +... + + +APPENDIX B. + +CONTAINING A LIST AND DESCRIPTION OF THE SUBJECTS OF NATURAL HISTORY +COLLECTED DURING CAPTAIN KING'S SURVEY OF THE INTERTROPICAL AND WESTERN +COASTS OF AUSTRALIA. + +Previously to the establishment of the British Colony at Port Jackson, in +the year 1787, the shores of this extensive continent had been visited by +very few navigators who have recorded any account of the productions of +its Animal Kingdom. The first authentic report that we have, is that of +Vlaming, who is celebrated as the first discoverer of that rara avis, the +black swan: next to him followed Dampier, who has handed down to us in +his intelligent, although quaint, style, the account of several of the +productions of the North-western and Western Coasts; but the harvest was +reserved for Banks and Solander, the companions of Cook, whose names are +so well and widely known in the fields of science. These distinguished +naturalists were the first collectors upon the Coast of New South Wales; +and although their labours were not confined to any particular branch of +Natural History, yet Botany appeared to be their chief object, of which +the Banksian Herbarium yields ample proof. + +Among the collectors of Natural History, in the neighbourhood of the +colony, since the year 1787, may be recorded the names of White, +Paterson, Collins, Brown, Caley, Lewin, Humphreys, and Jamison; and in +this interval the coasts have been visited by two English and two French +expeditions of discovery; namely, those commanded by Admiral +D'Entrecasteaux, Captains Vancouver and Flinders, and Commodore Baudin. +The first merely touched upon the south coast at the Recherche's +Archipelago, and on the south shores of Van Diemen's Land; and the second +only at King George the Third's Sound, near the South-west Cape; but +these opportunities were sufficient to celebrate the names of +Labillardiere and Menzies as Australian Botanists, notwithstanding they +have been since eclipsed by the more extensive discoveries of Mr. Brown, +whose collections of Natural History upon the voyage of Captain Flinders, +and his pre-eminent qualifications, have justly raised him to the +pinnacle of botanical science upon which he is so firmly and deservedly +elevated. + +Peron and Lesueur, in Baudin's voyage, extended their inquiries chiefly +among the branches of zoological research; but in that expedition each +department of Natural History had its separate collector, and the names +of Leschenault de la Tour, Riedle, Depuch, and Bailly, will not be +forgotten. Unfortunately, the Natural History of this voyage has never +yet been given to the world, the death of M. Peron having put a stop to +its publication; a few of the subjects, however, have been taken up by +MM. Lacepede and Cuvier, and other French naturalists, in the form of +monographs, in their various scientific journals; but the greater part is +yet untouched, probably from the want of the valuable information which +died with its collector. M. Peron, in his historical account of that +expedition, notices a few subjects of zoology that were collected by him, +but in so vague a manner, that it is with very great doubt that the +specimens which we procured, and suspect to be his discoveries, can be +compared with his descriptions. + +Of the Natural History collections of Captain Flinders and Mr. Brown, no +account has been published, excepting the valuable botanical works of the +latter gentleman. + +With respect to the collection which has been formed upon this +expedition, it is to be regretted that the gleanings of the Animal +Kingdom, particularly of quadrupeds and birds, should have been so +trifling in number; and that the students of Natural History should have +suffered disappointment in what might, at first view, be fairly +considered to have arisen from neglect and careless attention to the +subject; but as the principal, and almost the only, object of the voyage +was the survey of the coast, for which purpose a small vessel was justly +considered the most advantageous, accommodation for a zoological +collection was out of the question. The very few specimens that are now +offered to the world were procured as leisure and opportunity offered; +but many interesting and extremely curious subjects were in fact obliged +to be left behind from want of room, and from our not possessing +apparatus for collecting and preserving them. + +A botanical collector for the Royal Garden, Mr. Allan Cunningham, was +attached to the expedition; and this gentleman did not fail to make a +very extensive and valuable collection in his department, the whole of +which is preserved at Kew. + +In making out the Appendix, every species brought home (excepting three +or four fishes) has been mentioned, for the sake of furnishing materials +for the students of Geographical Zoology. The distribution of animals is +a branch of study that has been very much neglected, which is to be +lamented, as it appears likely to offer a very great assistance to the +systematic Physiologist; and for this reason the species found at the +Isle of France have been added to the list. + +For the catalogue and descriptions of the quadrupeds, reptiles, and +shells, I am under obligation to Mr. J.E. Gray, of the British Museum. +Mr. Vigors has kindly assisted me with the use of his collection, and his +valuable advice with respect to the few specimens of birds that were +preserved; and Mr. W.S. MacLeay has furnished me with a very valuable +description of my entomological collection. I am also indebted to Mr. +Cunningham for his remarks upon the botany of the country; to Mr. Brown, +for his description of a new tree from King George the Third's Sound; and +lastly to Dr. Fitton, for his kindness in drawing up for me a very +interesting geological notice from the specimens that have been presented +to the Geological Society of London, of which he is one of the most +active and scientific members. + +... + +VERTEBRATA. + +MAMMALIA. + +BY JOHN EDWARD GRAY, ESQUIRE, M.G.S., ETC. + +1. Pteropus edwardsii, Desm. Mamm. 109. +Madagascar Bat, Edwards' Birds, t. 108. +Vespertilio vampyrus, Lin. Syst. Nat. 1 45. +Flying Fox, Colonists of Port Jackson. + +This specimen, caught at Point Cunningham on the North-west Coast, +appears to agree with Edwards' figure, and with the specimen preserved in +the British Museum. There is also one in the collection of the Linnean +Society from Port Jackson. Large flights of these animals were observed +at Port Keats and in Cambridge Gulf, on the North-west Coast. This bat +seems also to be very abundant on the Friendly Islands, for Forster +describes having seen five hundred hanging upon one casuarina tree. +Forster, page 187. + +2. Canis australiae. +Canis familiaris australasiae, Desmarest, Mamm. 191. +Australasian Dog, or Dingo, Shaw's Zool. 1 278, t. 76. + +This animal is common in the neighbourhood of Port Jackson, and dogs, to +all appearance of the same species, are found on all parts of the coast. +Captain King presented a living specimen to Sir Everard Home, Bart., who +sent it to Exeter Change. + +In considering this species as distinct from the common dog, I am +supported by the opinion of Mr. William MacLeay*. (See Linnean +Transactions 13.) + +(*Footnote. No such opinon has been expressed by Mr. W. S. Macleay in the +place alluded to.--P.P.K. [added in "errata"]) + +Captain King informs me that these dogs never bark, in which particular +they agree with the Linnean account of the American dog; that, in their +appearance and cunning disposition, they resemble the fox; and although +occasionally domesticated in New South Wales, they never lose the sly +habits peculiar to their breed, nor can be prevented from killing poultry +or biting sheep. + +This dog, however, seems to be quite a distinct species from that found +in the South Sea Islands, which Forster describes as being "of a singular +race: they mostly resemble the common cur, but have prodigious large +heads, remarkably little eyes, prick ears, long hair, and a short bushy +tail. They are chiefly fed with fruit at the Society Isles; but in the +Low Isles and New Zealand, where they are the only domestic animals, they +live upon fish. They are exceedingly stupid, and seldom or NEVER BARK, +only howl now and then." Forster's Observations, page 189. + +3. Otaria cinerea, Peron et Lesueur. Voyage aux Terres Austral. ij. 75. + +The head of a species, agreeing with the short description of Peron, was +brought home by the expedition, but that it is the one intended by these +authors, there is great room to doubt. I am informed that specimens of +Peron's animal are in the Paris Museum, but Desmarest and Frederic +Cuvier, who have both lately written upon seals, have only copied the +very short specific character given by Peron. The head of our specimen is +gray, covered with rather short, rigid, hairs, and without any woolly +fur. The ears are short, conical. + +It is very distinct from the Otaria Falklandica of Desmarest (the Phoca +falklandica* of Shaw) by the want of the woolly substance under the hair +(called fur by the seal-fishers) and by the length of the ear, which in +the latter species, described by Shaw, is long and awl-shaped. + +(*Footnote. The specimen in the Museum, which I take for this species, +was brought by Captain Peake from New South Shetland: it differs from +Pennant's, and consequently from all succeeding descriptions that are +taken from him, in having five instead of four claws and toes to the hind +foot.) + +Captain King in his manuscript observes, that this seal is found at +Rottnest Island on the West Coast, and at King George the Third's Sound. +It appeared also to be the same species that frequents Shark's Bay; and, +if it is M. Peron's Otaria cinerea, it is also found as far to the +eastward as Kangaroo Island. + +The head is deposited in the Linnean Society's collection. + +4. Petaurista sciurea, Desm. N. Dict. H.N. 25 403. +Didelphis sciurea, Shaw's Zool. 1 t. 113. +Sugar Squirrel, Colonists of Port Jackson. + +A well preserved natural skeleton of this animal was brought home and +deposited in the British Museum. + +5. Acrobata pygmaea, Desm. Mamm. 270. +Didelphis pygmaea, Shaw's Gen. Zool. 1 t. 114. +Phalangista pygmaea, Geoffr. manuscripts. +Petaurus pygmaeus, Desm. N. Dict. H.N. 25 405. +Opossum Mouse, Colonists at Port Jackson. + +This little animal, the smallest and most beautiful of the opossum tribe, +is exceedingly numerous in the vicinity of Port Jackson. It was first +described by Dr. Shaw in his Zoology of New Holland. There are several +specimens in the Linnean Society's collection. The above is placed in the +British Museum. + +6. Delphinorhynchus pernettensis ? +Delphinus pernettensis, Blainville. +Delphinus delphis, var. Bonnaterre, Ency. Cetol. 21. +Dauphin, Pernetty, Voyage aux Isles Malouines, 99. t. 2. f. 1. + +A head, apparently belonging to this species, was brought home and +deposited in the collection of the British Museum. This animal is very +common upon the northern coasts of New Holland. + +Captain King, in his manuscript, remarks, that the coasts of New South +Wales, and the north-western side of New Holland, abound in cetaceous +animals. Upon the North-east Coast, within the reefs, the sea is crowded +with Balaena physalis, Linn., or fin-backed whales, as they are called by +the whalers, who pay little attention to them, on account of the danger +of approaching them. His boats were sometimes placed in critical +situations from these animals suddenly rising to the surface of the water +close to them, and lashing the sea with their tremendous fins, and their +occasionally leaping out of the water, and falling down with a crushing +weight. Their colour is generally of a cinereous hue, but a few were +noticed that were variegated black and white. The whales of the +North-west Coast appeared to be of the same species, but of a darker +colour. At one of the anchorages, near Cape Leveque (volume 2 page 91) +the brig was for a whole night surrounded by these enormous fish, and the +crew in momentary dread of their falling on board, the consequence of +which would have been very disastrous. The noise of their fall in the +water, on a calm night, was as loud as the report of a cannon. + +... + +AVES. + +THIS COLLECTION HAS BEEN PRESENTED TO THE LINNEAN SOCIETY, IN WHOSE +CABINETS THEY ARE NUMBERED ACCORDING TO THE ORDER IN WHICH THEY ARE HERE +INSERTED. + +1. Halcyon sacra. Swainson. +Alcedo sacra, Ind. Orn. 1 250. +Sacred Kingfisher, Latham, 4 25. + +This bird was taken at sea, in the neighbourhood of Cambridge Gulf, on +the North-west Coast, having probably been blown off by a strong land +wind. + +2. Barita tibicen. Cuvier. +Coracias tibicen, Ind. Orn. sup. 27. +Piping roller, Latham, 3 86. + +3. Barita varia. Cuvier. +Coracias varia, Ind. Orn. 1 173. +Pied roller, Latham, 3 86. + +This appears to be a young specimen. + +4. Centropus phasianus. Illiger. +Cuculus phasianus, Ind. Orn. Sup. 30. +Polophilus phasianus, Leach, Zool. Misc. plate 46. +Pheasant Cuckoo, Latham, 3 240. + +This bird is found upon all parts of the coast of New South Wales north +of Port Jackson, as well as upon the eastern part of the North-west +Coast. Its habitat in Australia is known to extend as wide as twenty-four +degrees of latitude, and twenty-six degrees of longitude. This specimen +was taken at Endeavour River, on the East Coast. There is also another +specimen of this bird in the Linnean Society's collection, that was taken +in the neighbourhood of Port Jackson. + +5. Meliphaga corniculata. Lewin. +Merops corniculata, Ind. Orn. 1 276. +Knob-fronted Honey-eater, Latham, 4 161. + +This bird is found upon the whole extent of the Eastern Coast. + +The next bird in the collection has been arranged by Dr. Latham in the +Linnean genus Gracula, but appears to me to agree in no respect with that +genus, as originally characterized by Linnaeus, much less with it as it +has been modified by modern ornithologists. Whether we consider, +according to M. Cuvier,* that the type of Gracula is the Paradisea +tristis, Linn., or, according to M. Temminck, that it is the Gracula +religiosa, Linn.,** in which latter opinion I feel rather disposed to +acquiesce, my bird agrees with the group in none of its essential +characters. In fact, the Linnean genus Oriolus is that to which it bears +the closest resemblance in its general appearance; particularly by a +similar disposition of its colours, and in the structure of its bill, +wings, and legs. I would at once refer it to that genus, but that I have +some reason to think that it belongs to the meliphagous birds, which are +so abundant in New Holland, and which have been observed to assume the +appearance of almost every group in the Insessores. Indeed, some birds of +that country, which have been decided to be +meliphagous, such as the Meliphaga cyanops, Lewin,*** [Graculine +Honey-eater, Lath. Syn. 4 166. sp. Ed. 2da.] and others allied to it, and +which differ little from the bird before us, have so many external +relations with the Orioles, that they probably would be found to arrange +themselves in the same family with them, were it not for the totally +different structure of their tongue, and the consequent difference in +their habits of life. Of the tongue, or mode of feeding of the bird at +present before us, I can myself say nothing decisively, not having had +leisure or opportunity, as I have already observed, of attending to the +more interesting details of Natural History during the expedition. But +general opinion places this bird among the groups that feed by suction; +and as I have a second species hitherto undescribed, which is closely +allied to it, I prefer forming both provisionally into a new genus, to +referring them to one, from which, although they agree with it in +external appearance, they may be totally remote, in consequence of their +internal anatomy and habits of life. The error at least will not be so +great, and may be easily retrieved. If the tongue of my birds be found to +accord with that of the Orioles, and not of the Honey-suckers, my group +of course must fall. + +(*Footnote. Regne Anim. 1 360.) + +(**Footnote. Analyse d'un Syst. Gen. d'Orn. page 52.) + +(***Footnote. Birds of New Holland plate 4.) + +Genus MIMETES.* + +(*Footnote. Mimetes, from Greek, imitator; [assuming the appearance of a +different group.]) + +Rostrum forte, subarcuatum, subcultratum, mandibulis utrisque apice +emarginatis; naribus basalibus, lateralibus, subovalibus, membrano partim +tectis. + +Lingua ad sugendum idonea ? + +Alae mediocres, rotundatae; remige 1ma brevissima; 2da et 6ta aequalibus; +3tia et 4ta fere aequalibus; longissimis; 5ta his paulo breviori: remigum +3tiae ad 6tam inclusam pogoniis externis in medio gradatim productis. + +Pedes subbreves; acrotarsiis scutellatis, scutis quinque; paratarsiis +integris. + +Cauda mediocris, fere aequalis. + +6. VIRIDIS. M. olivaceo-viridis, subtus albidus nigro guttatim striatus; +alis caudaque nigro-fuscis, illis albido-marginatis, hac apice albo. + +Gracula viridis. Lath. Ind. Orn. supp. page 28. + +Caput dorsumque olivaceo-viridia, plumis in medio longitudinaliter +fusco-lineatis. Tectrices superiores nigro-fuscae, ad apicem +albido-marginatae; inferiores albido nigroque variegatae. Remiges supra +fuscae, ad marginem externum apicemque leviter albido-notatae; subtus +pallide fuscae. Rectrices nigro-fuscae, subtus pallidiores, omnibus, +duabus mediis exceptis, apice albo-maculatis. Rostrum flavum. Pedes +nigri. Longitudo* corporis, 10 1/4; alae a carpo ad remigem 3tiam, 5 +7/10; caudae, 4 4/5; tarsi, 17/20; rostri ad frontem, 1 2/10, ad rictum, +1 3/10. + +(*Footnote. My measurement is in inches, and their component parts.) + +7. FLAVO-CINCTUS (n.s.) M. flavo-viridis, subtus pallidior, capite +dorsoque fusco-lineatis, alis caudaque nigris viridi flavoque variegatis. + +Capitis, gulae, dorsique plumae flavo-virides, in medio fusco-lineatae, +hujus lineis latioribus. Tectrices superiores nigrae, apice +flavo-marginatae, pteromatum margine flavo, alis clausis, fasciam +conspicuam formante; inferiores flavee, ad basin nigro-notatae. Remiges +supra nigrae, subtus fuscae; primariis anguste, secondariis late, apice +flavo-marginatis; pogoniis externis anguste, internis late, +flavo-marginatis. Rectrices supra nigrae flavo-viridi marginatae; subtus +pallidiores, omnibus, duabus mediis exceptis, macula flava lata apicali +notatis. Rostrum flavum, paulo altius, et magis carinatum, quam rostrum +M. viridis. Pedes nigri. + +The dimensions of this bird are nearly the same as those of M. viridis: +the bill only slightly differing in being somewhat higher, and more +carinated. The above descriptions will point out the specific differences +between the two birds, which are strongly apparent, not merely by the M. +flavo-cinctus being marked with yellow where the other bird is white, but +by the general distribution of the colours. In this respect, M. +flavo-cinctus resembles more closely the true Orioles, particularly in +the yellow fascia which is formed on the wing, when closed by the +junction of the apical spots on the quill coverts. + +8. Rallus philippensis. Lin. Syst. 1 263.7. Ind. Orn. 756. Bris. 5 163. +t. 14. f. 1. Plate Enl. 774. + +This bird was found upon Booby Island, near Cape York (the north +extremity of New South Wales) and agrees with a specimen already in the +Linnean Society's collection, that was taken in the neighbourhood of Port +Jackson. My bird, being of smaller size than most of those with which I +have compared it, is probably a young specimen. The rufous band on the +breast is narrower than is usual in the species, originating probably +from the same circumstance: otherwise it agrees precisely. + +Rallus philippensis was originally found in the Philippine Islands. It +appears to have a very extensive range, as it inhabits lands both in the +North and South Pacific, as well as in the Indian Ocean. + +9. Haematopus picatus (n.s.) + +H. ater; corpore subtus, fascia alarum, uropygio, caudaeque basi, albis; +remigibus primoribus totis nigris. + +Rostrum pedesque rubri; collum totum nigrum; tectrices inferiores +primores fuscae, secondariae albae, ad carpum et ad marginem exteriorem +nigro-variegatae; fascia alarum angusta; remiges primores supra nigrae, +subtus fuscae; uropygium album parce nigro variegatum. + +Longitudo corporis ab apice rostri ad apicem caadae, 22; alae a carpo ad +remigem primam, 11; rosri, 3 3/10; tarsi, 2 3/10; caudae, 5. + +Besides the common Oyster-Catcher of Europe, two species have lately been +added to the genus, namely, H. palliatus, Temm., a native of Brazil, and +H. niger, Cuv., from New Holland. The bird above described approaches +more closely to the European species (H. ostralegus) than to the other +two; but may be distinguished from it by the following characters, +namely: + +In its dimensions it exceeds the length of the European bird by six +inches, and the other parts in proportion; it wants the white collar +round the neck, which is a very distinctive character of H. ostralegus; +the fascia on the wing is confined to the extremity of the secondary +quill feathers alone, whilst in the other bird it extends to some of the +wing coverts: the primary quill feathers also are entirely black; whereas +the other has them partially variegated with white: the under wing +coverts also differ, the primary ones being fuscous, and the outer +secondary partially marked with black; whilst the whole of the under wing +coverts in H. ostralegus are white. The uropygium also, which in the +European bird is entirely white, is in our specimen partially variegated +with black. The marginal webs of the toes are much more dilated. The +whitish lunular mark under the eye of H. ostralegus, is entirely wanting +in our species, of which the margin of the eye seems to be of a reddish +tinge, of the same colour as the bill. This bird is common upon the +shores of the continent generally; it is called by the colonists the Red +Bill. + +10. Aptenodytes minor. Gmel. Syst. 1 558. +The Little Penguin, Latham. + +This bird is common in all parts of the Southern Ocean. The above +specimen was found at King George the Third's Sound near the south-west +extremity of New Holland. There are two specimens in the collection +marked 9 a, and 9 b. + +11. Tachypetes aquila. Vieillot. +Pelecanus Aquila, Gmel. Lin. 1 572. +Frigate Bird. + +This specimen was obtained at Ascension, and is common in all parts of +the Atlantic within or near the Tropic. + +12. Sterna fuliginosa. Gmel. Lin. 1 605. Ind. Orn. 2 804. +Egg Bird, Forst. Voyage 1 115. Cook, Voyage 1 66, 275. +Noddy, Dampier, 3 pt. 1 99., table page 85. figure 5. Hawkesworth's Coll. +of Voyages, 3 652. +Sooty Tern, Gen. Syn. 6 352. Arc. Zool. 2 Number 447. + +There are two specimens of this bird in the collection, marked 12 a, and +12 b. + +13. Sterna pelecanoides (n.s.) +S. alba; capitis vertice nigro albo-variegato; dorso, alis, caudaque +canis; remigibus fusco-atris, rhachibus albis. + +Colli latera parce cano-maculata; tectrices secundariae primoribus +obscuriores; remiges fusco-atrae, pogoniis internis fere ad apicem +albo-marginatis; rectrices externae fuscae basi apiceque albis; rostrum +subflavum; pedes nigri. + +Longitudo corporis, 19 1/4; alae a carpo ad remigem primam, 13 1/2; +caudae, 6 3/4; rostri, ad frontem, 2 1/3, ad rictum, 3 1/6; tarsi, 1 1/6. + +The hallux, or hind toe, of this bird appears to be more closely united +to the fore toes, and to be situated more in front than is usual among +the Terns: it is also to be observed, that the side of the nail of the +middle toe is considerably dilated, although not serrated, similar to +what is observed among the Pelecanidae. These characters offer a +corroboration of the affinity of the Sternae to the family of the +Pelecanidae, and particularly to the genus Phaeton, which approaches the +Terns more closely than any other group of that family, in the smaller +size of the membrane that unites the toes (see Linnean Transactions 14 +505). It may also be stated on the other hand, that the same membrane of +the Sterna pelecanoides deviates from its own genus, and approaches the +Pelecanidae, in its being more dilated than usual. The wings are longer +than the tail for a considerable extent, by which our bird also evinces +another character, in common with the long-winged Tachypetes, or Frigate +bird. + +14. Larus georgii (n.s.) + +L. albus, dorso alisque nigris; rectricibus albis, fascia media atra. + +Rostrum flavum, apice rubro; mandibulae inferioris gonide maxime +angulata; remiges primores atrae, secundariae supra nigrae apice albo, +infra albae; tectrices inferiores albae; pedes flavi. + +Longitudo corporis, 28; alae, a carpo ad remigem primam 18 3/4; +mandibulae, superioris ad frontem, 2 1/3, ad rictum, 3 1/6; tarsi, 2 +11/12; caudae, 8 1/2. + +This bird was found at King George the Third's Sound, on the South-west +Coast, in the vicinity of Seal Island. + +... + +REPTILIA. + +BY JOHN EDWARD GRAY, ESQUIRE, M.G.S. + +Genus CHLAMYDOSAURUS. Gray. + +Capite depresso; membrana tympani aperta. +Gula pennulis plicatis ornata. +Pedibus quatuor. +Digitis quinque, elongatis, simplicibus. +Cauda elongata, subcylindrica. + +Animal scaly; the head depressed; the nostrils placed on the side, midway +between the eyes and the end of the head; the drum of the ear naked; the +front teeth conical, awl-shaped (eight in the upper, and four in the +lower jaw); the hinder ones largest; the side or cheek teeth compressed, +short, forming a single ridge, gradually longer behind; tongue short, +fleshy, with an oval smooth disk at each side of the lower part of its +front part; neck rather long, furnished on each side with a large plaited +frill, supported above by a crescent-shaped cartilage arising from the +upper hinder part of the ear, and, in the middle, by an elongation of the +side fork of the bone of the tongue; body compressed; legs rather long, +especially the hinder ones; destitute of femoral pores; feet four, with +five toes, the first having two, the second three, the third four, the +fourth five, and the little finger and toe three joints; claws +compressed, hooked; tail long, nearly round, scaly. + +This genus appears to be nearly allied to the Agamae, but differs from +them in the peculiar frill that is appended to the neck. + +1. Chlamydosaurus kingii (n.s.) + +C. corpore luteo, nigro, variegato; squamis carinatis; pennula antice +serrata; cauda corpore duplo longiore. +Chlamydosaurus kingii, Gray manuscripts. +Icon. Table A. Natural size. + +Inhabits Port Nelson, north-west coast of Australia. + +The colour yellowish-brown variegated with black: the head depressed, +with the sides erect, leaving a blunt ridge on the upper part, in which +the eyes are placed: the ridge over the eyes covered with larger scales +than those over the head; eyes rather small, with a fleshy ridge above +them; eye-lids covered with minute, and surrounded by a delicate serrated +ridge of small upright scales: the lips surrounded by a row of oblong, +four-sided scales, arranged lengthways, the front scale of the upper lip +being the largest: the chin covered with narrow mid-ribbed scales, with a +five-sided one in the centre, and several of larger size just over the +front of the fork of the lower jaw: nostrils, surrounded by rather a +large orbicular scale, situated nearly mid-way between the eye and the +end of the upper jaw, the tubes pointing forwards: the side of the face +has a very obscure ridge extending from the angle of the mouth to the +under part of the ear: neck covered with small scales: frill arising from +the hinder part of the head, just over the front of the ears, and +attached to the sides of the neck and extending down to the front part of +the chest, supported above by a lunate cartilage arising from the hinder +dorsal part of the ear, and in the centre by a bone, which extends about +half its length: this bone appears to be an elongation of the side fork +of the bone of the tongue, but it could not be determined with certainty +without injuring the specimen; each frill has four plaits, which converge +on the under part of the chin, and fold it up on the side, and a fifth +where the two are united in the centre of the lower part of the neck; the +front part of its upper edge is elegantly serrated, but the hinder or +lower part is quite whole; the outer surface is covered with keeled +scales, which are largest towards its centre; the inner surface is quite +smooth. The scales of the back are oval, smoothish; those of the lower +part of the body and upper part of the legs acutely mid-ribbed, and of +the sides and joints of the limbs minute. The tail is twice as long as +the body, roundish, covered with acutely mid-ribbed scales, which towards +the end form six rows, so as to render it obscurely six-sided; the end is +blunt: the toes long, very unequal, varying in joints, as stated in the +generic character (which includes also the claw joint) compressed, scaly; +the claws hooked, horn-coloured. + +Length of the tail: 12 inches. +Length of the body: 5 inches. +Length of the head: 5 1/2 inches. +Breadth of the head over the eyes: 1 inch. +Length of the thigh: 1 9/10 inches. +Length of the foot and sole: 2 2/10 inches. +Length of the outer edge of the frill: 10 inches. + +This interesting lizard was found by Mr. Allan Cunningham, who +accompanied the expedition as His Majesty's Botanical Collector for Kew +Gardens, on the branch of a tree in Careening Bay, at the bottom of Port +Nelson. (See volume 1.) It was sent by him to Sir Everard Home, by whom +it was deposited in the Museum of the College of Surgeons,* which +precluded my examination of its internal structure. + +(*Footnote. Upon application to the Board of Curators of the College, I +was permitted to have a drawing made of this curious and unique specimen +for the Appendix of my work. The plate was engraved by Mr. Curtis, from +an exceedingly correct drawing made by my friend, Henry C. Field, +Esquire. P.P.K.) + +Respecting this remarkable Lizard, Mr. Cunningham's journal contains the +following remarks. "I secured a lizard of extraordinary appearance, which +had perched itself upon the stem of a small decayed tree. It had a +curious crenated membrane like a ruff or tippet round its neck, covering +its shoulders, and when expanded, which it was enabled to do by means of +transverse slender cartilages, spreads five inches in the form of an open +umbrella. I regret that my eagerness to secure so interesting an animal +did not admit of sufficient time to allow the lizard to show by its alarm +or irritability how far it depended upon, or what use it made of, this +extraordinary membrane when its life was threatened. Its head was rather +large, and eyes, whilst living, rather prominent; its tongue, although +bifid, was short and thick, and appeared to be tubular." Cunningham +manuscripts. + +Captain King informs me, that the colour of the tongue and inside of the +mouth was yellow. + +2. Uaranus varius, Merrem. +Lacerta varia, White, Journal of a Voyage to New Holland, 253, t. 38. +Shaw, Nat. Misc. t. 83. +Tupinambis variegatus, Daud. Rept. iij. 76. +Monitor bigarre, Cuv. Reg. Anim. ij. 24. + +This species, better known to English Dealers under the name of The Lace +Lizard, is peculiar in having the two series of the scales, placed on the +upper part of the centre of the tail, raised into a biserrated ridge, and +in the outer toe, or rather thumb, of the hinder-foot being long, and +reaching to the penultimate distal joint of the first or longest toe; the +claws are compressed, sharp. + +Genus PHELSUMA. Gray. + +Pedes quatuor, digitis fere aequalibus, totis lobatis, muticis; poris +femoralibus distinctis. + +Caput et truncus supra tesserulis minutis, infra squamis minimis, tecti. + +This genus, which appears to be confined to the Isle of France, differs +from the rest of the Geckonidae, by the toes being dilated the whole +length, and entirely clawless, and covered beneath with transverse +scales; by the thumb being very small and indistinct, and by the thighs +being furnished with a series of minute pores. + +3. Phelsuma ornata (n.s.). +P. supra plumbea macula, fasciaque rufa ornata, subtus albida. +Icon. -- +Inhabits Isle of France. + +Head depressed, truncated in front, covered with minute ovate scales; the +front of the upper part lead-coloured, with a rather broad red band a +little before the eyes, and a white crescent-shaped spot on each side +immediately behind it, and then some obscure red shades just behind that; +the back lead-coloured and blue, with six longitudinal series of +irregular-sized red spots; belly whitish; tail rather longer than the +body. Body one inch and five-eighths, head half an inch, tail two inches +and a half long. + +This animal is very interesting, as being the second species of a genus +recently established, which only consisted of P. cepedia, the Gecko +cepedien of Peron; Cuv. Reg. Anim. 2 46. and 4 t. 5. f. 5.; which has +somewhat the manner of colouring, but is very distinct from the Gecko +ocellatus of Oppel. + +Genus TILIQUA. Gray. + +Pedes quatuor pentadactyli, poris femoralibus nullis. +Caput scutatum; dentes in palato nulli. +Truncus regulariter squamosus. + +This genus is distinguished from the true Skinks by the want of Palatine +teeth, the shorter body, and the holes of the ears being furnished on +their front part with a fringe. It differs from the succeeding Genus, +Trachysaurus, in the head being covered with distinct flat plates, and +the whole of the body with cut hexangular scales; the scales are harder +than those of the true Skink, but not so distinctly bony as those of the +Trachysaurus. + +4. Tiliqua tuberculata. Gray. +Lacerta scincoides. Shaw, Nat. Misc. +Lacerta occidua. var. Shaw, Zool. iij. 289. +Scincus tuberculatus, Merrem. Syst. Amph. 73. +Scincoid, or Skink-formed Lizard, White, Journal 242. +Icon. White, l. c. t. 30. Shaw, N. M. t. 179; Zool. iij. t. 81. + +This Lizard, which was first described in the excellent journal of Mr. +White, does not appear to be uncommon on the coast of Australia, as there +are several specimens both in the British Museum and in the collection of +the Linnean Society, that were probably taken in the neighbourhood of the +colony; the specimen before me was caught at Seal Island, in King George +the Third's Sound. + +The scales of the whole of the body are broad, hexangular, with five or +six longitudinal, slightly-raised ridges, which gradually taper, and are +lost just before they reach the margin. The legs are short, thick; the +toes of the fore-feet are rather short, the outer reaching to the middle +of the second, the second and third equal; the fourth reaching to the +last joint of the third, and the little one to the second joint of the +fourth finger. In the hind foot the first and third toe are nearly equal, +and only half as long as the second; the fourth only half as long as the +third; and the fifth about half the length of the fourth toe. + +Genus TRACHYSAURUS. Gray. + +Pedes quatuor pentadactyli. +Caput sub-scutatum, dentes in palato nulli. +Truncus supra sqoamis crassis elongatis subspinosis, infra hexagonis +membranaceis imbricatis, tectus. +Cauda brevis, depressa. + +This genus is at once distinguished from the former, and indeed from the +whole of the Scincidae, by the large hard scales that cover the back of +the body and head; which are formed of distinct triangular long plates, +rough on the outside, and covered with a membranaceous skin. The body +shields of the head pass gradually into the dorsal plates. The teeth +short, thick, and conical; the palate toothless. The belly and lower +surface of the tail are covered with large six-sided scales, like the +other genera of the family. The head is rather large, triangular. The +legs short, weak; the toes very short, covered only with as many scales +as there are joints; the outer and innermost being about half as long as +the three central toes, which are nearly of equal length; claws short, +conical, channelled beneath. The tail short, depressed. + +5. Trachysaurus rugosus (n.s.) +T. squamis dorsi rugosis, caudae subspinosis; cauda brevissima. + +The body nearly uniform, chestnut brown; the head depressed with the +scales convex, and more nearly of an equal size than usual: those round +the eyes and mouth large; the three anterior scales on the edge of the +lower jaw larger than those which cover the lower surface of the head, +body, and tail, which are uniform, distinct, large, and membranaceous: +the scales of the back are nearly of equal size with those covering the +commencement of the tail; they are furnished with a prominent midrib, and +end in a point. The legs very short, compressed, covered with nearly +smooth, rather thin, scales. The toes very short; claws rather thick, and +short. The tail about half the length of the body. + +Head, three inches long. +Body, seven inches. +Tail, four inches. + +Only one specimen of this exceedingly interesting animal was brought home +by Captain King, but the spirits in which it had been preserved had +unfortunately evaporated, so that it was considerably injured; there is, +however, a specimen, apparently of the same animal, in the collection of +the Linnean Society, which wants the end of its tail. + +The above specimen was found at King George the Third's Sound, and is +preserved in the Museum. + +6. Agama muricata. Daud. +Lacerta muricata, Shaw, in White's Journal of a Voyage to New South +Wales, 244. +Lacerta Agama, var. ? Shaw, Gen. Zool. iij. 211. +Muricated Lizard, Shaw. +Icon. Shaw, Gen. Zool. t. 65, and White's Journal t. 31. f. 2. + +This lizard was first described in Mr. White's Journal, by the late Dr. +Shaw, who paid particular attention to that class of animals; but he was +afterwards inclined to consider it as only a variety of the common +Lacerta agama, or American Galeote, from which, however, it is quite +distinct. + +It appears to be a young specimen, since its length is only seven inches, +whilst that described by Dr. Shaw was more than a foot in length; and +some have been caught even of a much larger size. The Doctor's figure is +remarkably good, but rather more spinous than the specimen under +examination, which is probably another proof of its youth. It was taken +and preserved by Mr. James Hunter, R.N., who accompanied Captain King as +surgeon during the Mermaid's third voyage, and has been presented by him +to the British Museum. + +7. Disteira doliata. Lacepede, Ann. de Museum, D'Hist. Nat. 4 199. 210. +Enhydris doliatus, Merrem, Syst. Amph. 140. +Icon. Lacep. Ann. Mus. 4 t. 57. f. 2. + +The series of small hexagonal shields on the abdomen of this curious +animal appears to be formed of two series of scales united laterally. The +length of the specimen brought home by Captain King exceeds four feet. +The figure by M. Lacepede seems to be too short, but his description +agrees admirably with our specimen, which has been presented to the +British Museum. + +8. Leptophis* punctulatus (n.s.). +N. squamis laevibus apice uni-indentatis, spinae dorsalis triangularibus; +cauda quadrantali, tenui, squamis aequalibus. + +(*Footnote. I have adopted Mr. Bell's manuscript name for this genus +since his paper was read at the Zoological club of the Linnean Society, +before the publication of my genera of Reptiles in the Annals of +Philosophy, where I erroneously considered it as synonymous with Dr. +Leach's genus Macrosoma instead of my Ahaetulla. J.E.G.) + +Scales uniform, pale brown, with a minute black dot impressed on the +apex: body slender, compressed: abdominal scutae rather broad. The series +of scales on the side next to the ventral plates ovate and blunt; those +on the sides narrow, linear, in five series; the series of scales along +the centre of the back long, triangular. This arrangement of the scales +gradually assumes a uniform appearance on the neck close to the head, +where they are ovate. Head rather long with nine plates, frontal plate +being divided; the snout very blunt, truncated; the upper central labial +scale octangular, with a deep concavity on the labial margin; the +anterior and posterior mental scales long. The tail one-fourth the length +of the body, covered with uniform ovate quadrangular scales. Length, four +feet. + +This species appears to have a considerable affinity to the genus named +Macrosoma by Dr. Leach, but not described by him, and is very much like +Coluber decorus of Shaw. It belongs to the group called by English +Zoologists, Whip Snakes. + +The specimen above described was taken by Mr. James Hunter, at Careening +Bay, on the north coast, and presented by him to the British Museum. + +9. Leptophis spilotus. +Coluber spilotus, Lacepede, Ann. Mus. iv 209. + +A specimen of this snake was brought home by Captain King, agreeing very +well with the short description given by Lacepede, in his account of some +new species of animals from New Holland. It has not been taken notice of +in the modern works on Reptiles. It may, perhaps, be distinct from it; +but upon considering that upwards of two hundred species of this genus +have been already described, I thought it best not to increase the number +without very good reason. This species forms a second section in the +genus Leptophis, on account of the form of its scales, particularly those +of the throat. + +Captain King has informed me that turtles of two or three kinds are +common on the coasts of Australia, particularly within the tropic; and +Alligators were seen, in great abundance, in the rivers of the northern +and north-western coasts, particularly in those that empty themselves +into the bottom of Van Diemen's Gulf; but as no specimens of either of +these animals were preserved, no further notice can be taken of them.* + +(*Footnote. The turtle that frequents the North-east Coast, in the +neighbourhood of Endeavour River, is a variety of the Testudo mydas. See +Banks and Solander manuscripts.) + +... + +PISCES. + +BY JOHN EDWARD GRAY, ESQUIRE, M.G.S. + +1. Tetraodon argenteus. Lacepede, Ann. Mus. 4 203. +Icon. Ann. Mus. l.c. t. 58. f. 2. + +2. Chironectes tuberosus, G. Cuvier, Mem. Mus. 3 432. +Icon. -- + +There are two other species of this genus in Captain King's collection, +which appear to be new. + +3. Balistes australis. Donovan. Naturalist. Repos. 26. +Icon. l.c. + +4. Teuthis australis (n.s.). +T. fusca, fasciis sexta transversis nigro-fuscis, cauda truncata. +Icon. -- + +Body brown, paler beneath, with six transverse blackish-brown bands; the +first placed across the eye and front angle of the gill flap; the second +obliquely across the pectoral fin, and the three next, nearly +equidistant, straight across the body, the last band placed between the +spine and the base of the rays of the tail; and with a black longitudinal +line between the eyes. Teeth flat, rather broad, rounded at the end, and +denticulated. The gills flat, unarmed; pectoral fin subacute, triangular; +ventral fin triangular, supported by a very strong first ray; dorsal and +anal fins rounded. Tail truncated, spine on the side of the tail very +distinct, imbedded in a sheath. + +Pectoral fin, fifteen rays, first very short: Ventral fin, five rays, one +very strong, short. Dorsal fin, thirty-one; anterior very strong, first +short. Anal fin, twenty-three; two first very strong and short. Caudal +fin, sixteen rays, divided. + +Body 3; tail 1 1/4 inches long. Body 2 3/4 high; dorsal fin 3/4; pectoral +fin 1 1/4 inches long. + +This fish belongs to the Genus Acanthurus of Bloch, adopted by Shaw +(Harpurus, of Forster) but as that genus is apparently formed from the +type of Linnaeus' Genus, Teuthis, I have adopted the latter name for +those Chetodons which have one spine on each side of the tail, and +Acanthurus for those that have two. They are usually called Lancet-fish, +from the curious structure of the sub-caudal spines. + +Captain King has presented to the Museum seven or eight other sorts of +fish, in spirits, and several interesting drawings, which I have not +hitherto been enabled to find in any of the works on Ichthyology, but so +little is known of the genera and species of this department of Natural +History, that I am not inclined to describe them as new, for fear of +increasing the confusion at present existing. + +Among the unnamed fish, there is one exactly similar to a species found +by my late friend Mr. Cranch, in the South Atlantic. + +5. Squalus ocellatus. Gmelin, Syst. Nat. 1494. +Squalus oculatus. Banks and Solander, manuscripts. + +6. Squalus glaucus. + +Captain King observes, this fish is frequently found in the neighbourhood +of the coast. + +7. Squalus. Captain King in his manuscripts observes, that a species of +shark was observed commonly near the shores, having a short nose, with a +very capacious mouth; the body was of an ash grey colour, marked with +darker spots, of a round shape, and about two inches in diameter. This +shark was usually ten or eleven feet long. + +... + +ANNELIDES. + +1. Leodice gigantea. Savigny Syst. des Annel. page 49. Lam. 5 322. +Eunice gigantea, Cuv. Reg. Anim. 2 524. +Nereis aphroditois, Pall. Nov. Act. Petrop. 2 229. table 5. figure 1.7. +Terebella aphroditois, Gmelin, Syst. Nat. 3114. + +The specimen brought by Captain King is nearly five feet long, and was +procured at the Isle of France. + +... + +ANNULOSA. + +CATALOGUE OF INSECTS, COLLECTED BY CAPTAIN KING, R.N. + +BY WILLIAM SHARP MACLEAY, ESQUIRE, A.M., F.L.S. + +The collection consists of one hundred and ninety-two species, of which +one hundred and thirty belong to the class Mandibulata, fifty-eight to +Haustellata, and four to the Arachnida. Eighty-one of the species are +new, and the extent to which each order of winged insects has been +collected, will be best understood from the following summary. + +COLUMN 1: MANDIBULATA. +COLUMN 2: HAUSTELLATA. + +108 Coleoptera : 40 Lepidoptera. +8 Orthoptera : 2 Homoptera. +5 Neuroptera : 8 Hemiptera. +9 Hymenoptera : 8 Diptera. + +Total 188 Species. + +This number is, of course, not sufficient to allow any general remarks to +be founded on the collection, and the following Catalogue is, therefore, +merely descriptive. + +CLASS MANDIBULATA. + +Order COLEOPTERA. + +1. Panagaeus quadrimaculatus. Oliv. Enc. Meth. Hist. Nat. + +Obs. There is a wretched figure of this insect given in the fourth volume +of Cuvier's Regne Animal. + +2. Paecilus kingii (n.s.) P. atronitidus, antennis tomentosis obscuris, +basi et apice piceis, labri margine antico palpisque rufo-piceis, thorace +linea media longitudinali vix marginem +posticum attingente fossulaque utrinque postica, elytris striatis vix +atro-aeneis tibiis ad apicem tarsisque atro-piceis. + +3. Gyrinus rufipes. Fab. Syst. Eleuth. page 276. 13. + +Obs. The description of this species, as given by Fabricius is very +vague; but as it applies tolerably well to the insect collected by +Captain King, I have not thought proper to give it a new name. + +4. Silpha lacrymosa. Schreiber, in Linnean Transactions 6 194. t. 20, f. +5. + +5. Creophilus erythrocephalus. +Staphylinus erythrocephalus. Fab. Syst. Eleuth. 2 593. 19. + +6. Hister cyaneus. Fab. Syst. Eleuth. 1 page 88. 13. + +7. Hister. speciosus. Dej. Cat. page 48. + +8. Passalus polyphyllus (n.s.) P. ater depressiusculus, antennis +sex-lamellatis, vertice tuberculis tribus, intermedio majore compressa +linearum superiorem duarum elevatarum transversarum dissecante, thoracis +lateribus rufo-ciliatis, elytrorum striis lateralibus punctatis. + +9. Passalus edentulus (n.s.) P. ater convexiusculus antennis triphyllis, +verticis cornu elevato incurva canaliculato apice emarginato, tuberculo +utrinque acuto, elytrorllm striis subpunctatis, mandibulis concavis extus +dentatis. + +Obs. This insect is much less in size than the former, and is more +convex. + +10. Lamprima aenea. Horae Entom. 1 page 101. 3. + +11. Dasygnathus dejeanii. Horae Entom. 1 page 141. 1. + +12. Trox alternans (n.s.) T. capite antice linea angulati elevata +marginato, thorace lineis quatuor mediis elevatis, exterioribus +interruptis tuberculisque utrinque duobus inaequalibus, elytris +tuberculis striatim dispositis, striis alternatim majoribus. + +13. Melolontha festiva. Fab. Syst. Eleuth. 2 171. page 63. + +Obs. This most beautiful insect ought to be considered as the type of a +new genus near to Serica. + +14. Diphucephala sericea. Kirby, in Linnean Transactions 12 page 463. + +Obs. This genus I had named Agrostiphila in my manuscripts, but M. Dejean +has since published it under the name of Diphucephala. + +15. Diphucephala splendens (n.s.). D. viridis nitidissima antennis +palpisque nigris, capite antice thoracisque lateribus subpunctatis, media +canaliculato, elytris punctis rugosis seriatim dispositis, corpore subtus +hirsutie incano. + +An Melolontha colaspidoides, Schon. App. 101. ? + +16. Cetonia variegata. Fab. Syst. Eleuth. 2 page 157. 112. +C. luctuosa. Lat. in Cat. Mus. Gall. + +Obs. This insect is an inhabitant of the Isle of France, and was probably +collected by Captain King during his stay in that island. + +17. Cetonia australasiae. Donov. Ins. of New Holland, table 1. + +18. Cetonia dorsalis. Donov. Ins. of New Holland, table 1. + +19. Anoplognathus viridiaeneus. Horae. Ent. 1 page 144. 1. + +20. Anoplognathus viriditarsis. Leach. Zool. Miscel. 2 44. + +21. Anoplognathus rugosus. Kirby, Linnean Transactions 12 405. + +22. Anoplognathus inustus. Kirby, Linnean Transactions 12 405. + +23. Repsimus aeneus. +Melolontha aenea. Fab. Syst. Eleuth. 2 page 166. 30. + +24. Repsimus dytiscoides. Horae. Entom. 1 page 144. 2. + +25. Buprestis macularis. +Buprestis macularia. Don. Ins. of New Holland, table 8. + +26. Buprestis imperialis. Fab. Syst. Eleuth. 2 page 204. 98. + +27. Buprestis suturalis. Don. Ins. of New Holland, table 8. + +28. Buprestis variabilis. Don. Ins. of New Holland, table 7. + +29. Buprestis kingii (n.s.) B. elytris striatis nigro-violaceis +testaceo-quadrifasciatis haud bidentatis, thorace punctato nigro-aeneo +lateribus testaceis. + +Obs. This species comes perhaps too near to some of the darker varieties +of B. variabilis, of the true appearance of which scarcely any idea can +be formed from the figures of Donovan. Our insect bears a remarkable +similarity to a Surinam Buprestis, with serrated elytra. + +30. Buprestis bimaculata. Lin. Syst. Nat. 2 662. 16. Oliv. Ins. 2 32, +table 12, figure 140. + +Obs. This is an East Indian Insect; and, as Captain King collected a few +species in the Isle of France, this is probably one of them. + +31. Buprestis fissiceps. Kirby, in Linnean Transactions 12 page 458, +table 23, figure 4. + +32. Buprestis lapidosa (n.s.) B. cuprea scabrosa thorace lineis duabus +parallelis longitudinalibus elevatis, elytris integris subacuminatis +substriatis inter tuberculos punctatis, corpore subtus aeneo. + +33. Elater xanthomus (n.s.) E. ater antennis apicem versus dilatatis +serratis, thorace punctato canaliculato, elytris punctatis striatis +pubescentibus basi late auratis dimidiatis. + +Obs. This insect is about four lines long, and entirely black, except the +upper half of the elytra. + +34. Elater nigro-terminatus (n.s.) E. luteus cavite antennisque atris, +thorace convexo macula longitudinali sub-acuminata a margine antico ultra +medium attingente, elytris punctato~striatis apice late nigris, anoque +nigro. + +Obs. This insect is about the same length with the former, having its +feet and underside entirely yellow, excepting the head and a black anal +spot, something like the letter V. + +35. Lycus serraticornis. Fab. Syst. Eleuth. volume 2 1ll. 6. + +36. Lycus septemcavus (n.s.) L. ater thorace parabolico fossulis septem, +quatuor anticis fere aequalibus, posticarum media angusta lanciformi, +duabus lateralibus latis antice emarginatis. Scutello quadrato nigro; +elytrls rubris marginatis lineis quatuor elevatis, interstitiis duplici +serie punctorum transversorum crenatis. + +37. Lycus rhipidium (n.s.) L. ater antennis fiabellatis; thorace angulis +porrectis obtusis, fossulis septem, posticarum trium media longitudinali +lanciformi; scutello quadrato nigro; elytris rubris marginatis lineis +novem elevatis, quatuor alternatim majoribus, interstitiis crenatis. + +38. Telephorus pulchellus (n.s.) T. capite thoraceque nigro-nitidis, +hujus margine postico late rufo, elytris viridi-caeruleis tomentosis +punctatis ad suturam marginatis, corpore pedibusque nigris abdomine +subtus rufo. + +39. Malachius verticalis, (n.s.) M. rufo-testaceus vertice antennisque +apice nigro-nitidis, thorace testaceo. elytris fascia humerali mediaque +violaceis, postpectore pedibus anoque nigris. + +40. Clerus cruciatus (n.s.) C. testacea tomentosa, capite thoracis +lateribus elytrorumque maculis duabus longitudinalibus, quarum postica +latiori, nigris, elytris striato-punctatis apice rufescentibus, antennis +piceis. pedibus palpisque pallidis. + +41. Oedemera livida. Oliv. Ins. 50, table 1 figure 2. +Dryops livida. Fab. Syst. Eleuth. 2 68. 3. + +42. Oedemera lineata. Oliv. Ins. 50, table 1 figure 4. +Dryops lineata. Fab. Syst. Eleuth. 2 68. 4. + +Obs. I suspect this insect to be merely a variety of the former species. + +43. Oedemera punctum (n.s.) Oe. flavo-nitida antennis obscuris, fronte +puncto atro-nitido impresso, thorace lunula utrinque atro-nitida +impresso, scutello flavo, elytris nigro-fuscis limbo et sutura testaceis, +geniculis tibiis tarsisque nigris. + +44. Lagria tomentosa. Fab. Syst. Eleuth. volume 2 page 70. 9. + +45. Lagria rufescens. Dej. Cat. 72. + +46. Cistela securigera (n.s.) C. subtus picea supra brunnea pubescens, +antennis apice palporumque articulo ultimo securiformi nigris, elytris +punctis crenatis striatis. + +47. Amarygmus tristis. +Cnodulon triste. Fab. Syst. Eleuth. 2 page 13. 4. + +Obs. The characters of this genus are given by Fabricius under the head +of Cnodulon, but the true Cnodulon of M. Latreille is a native of St. +Domingo, and a different genus of which the characters are to be found in +the Genera Crustaceorum et Insectorum. The genus has, however, been of +late more accurately investigated by Dalman, in his Analecta +Entomologica, and he has given it the name of Amarygmus. + +48. Amarygmus viridicollis (n.s.) A. convexiusculus capite thoraceque +viridi-caeruleis, elytris cupreis striato-punctatis, corpore subtus +chalybeo pedibusque nigris. + +49. Amarygmus velutinus (n.s.) A. atro-nitidus glaberrimus labri margine +rubro, elytris nigro-aeneis punctorum striis minutissimis. + +Obs. This beautiful insect is one of the largest of a genus which +contains a great number of species. + +50. Adelium calosoioides. Kirby, in Linnean Transactions 12 page 420. 57. +table 22. figure 2. + +51. Adelium caraboides. Kirby, in Linnean Transactions 12 page 466. 17. + +52. Phalidura mirabilis. +Curculio mirabilis. Kirby, in Linnean Transactions 12 469. 21. table 23, +figure 9. + +Obs. The characters of this most singular genus Phalidura are chiefly to +be found in the broken clavate antennae, short thick rustrum, connate +elytra, and singular anal forceps of the male. + +53. Phalidura kirbii (n.s.) P. nigro-fusca clypeo subfurcato utrinque +canaliculato, thorace confertim noduloso, elytris lineis elevatis +interstitiis crenatis lateribusque punctato-striatis. + +54. Phalidura draco (n.s.) P. atrofusca vertice concavo cruce impresso, +clypeo emarginato, thorace depresso utrinque dilatato dentato margine +antico tuberculato tuberculourmque lineis quatuor duabus mediis +longitudinalibus, elytris punctis elevatis scabrosis utrinque dentibus +acutis seriatim armatis, lateribus seriatim nudulosis medioque linea +tuberculorum sub-duplici instructo. + +Obs. This and the following species are not true Phalidurae; at least +neither appears to have the anal forceps, but as they come close in +affinity to the genus Phalidura, I have not for the present ventured to +give them a new generic name. + +55. Phalidura marshami. Kirby, in Linnean Transactions 12 436. 77. + +Obs. This insect appears to be a Chrysolopus in M. Dejean's Catalogue. + +56. Hybauchenia nodulosa (n.s.) H. atra capite laevi vel punctis +minutissimis impresso, clypeo canaliculato, thorace irregulariter +noduloso, elytris sutura laeviori punctis que elevatis striatis striis +duabus a sutura alternatim majoribus. + +Obs. I regret that I am not able to give the detailed characters of this +genus at present. I shall merely, therefore, say that it has the broken +clavate antennae of Phalidura, only they are here longer than the head +and thorax taken together. The body is very convex:, having the thorax as +wide as the abdomen, subquadrate, with very convex sides. Abdomen joined +to thorax by a distinct peduncle. Elytra very convex, with almost +perpendicular sides. Feet long, with rather incrassated femora. + +57. Chrysolopus spectabilis. +Curculio spectabilis. Fab. Syst. Eleuth. 2 537. 184. + +58. Chrysolupus echidna (n.s.) C. atrofuscus vertice trilineato, thorace +punctis scabro medio concavo subcarinato lineis utrinque elevatis, +elytris crenatis seriebus spinarum duabus interiori anum versus +abbreviata; spinis anticis depressis obtusis, posticis acutis. +C. echidna. Dej. Cat. 88. + +59. Chrysolopus tuberculatus (n.s.) C. fuscus vertice lineato, thorace +punctis scabro medio canaliculato, elytris punctis seriatim impressis, +tuberculorumque seriebus tribus minutis interiori abbreviata; tuberculo +postico suturali maximo. + +60. Chrysolopus quadridens. +Curculio 4-dens. Fab. Syst. Eleuth. 2 536. 175. + +Obs. The three last species can scarcely be considered to belong to the +same genus with C. spectabilis; but I follow M. Dejean until the whole +family be more accurately investigated. + +61. Gastrodus crenulatus. +Curculio crenulatus. Fab. Syst. Eleuth. 2 518. 64. + +62. Gastrodus albolineatus (n.s.) G. niger thorace scabriusculo rugis +transversis duabus lineaque laterali alba, elytris nigris +striato-punctatis sutura striaque media elevatis laevibus linea laterali +alba haud apicem attingente, apice rufescente albo-punctato. + +63. Festus rubripes (n.s.) F. niger capite linea transversa constricto; +vertice lineis quatuor elevatis clypeoque tribus, antennis piceis clava +obscura, thorace punctis elevatis scabro: elytris punctis impressis +striatis, punctis conspicuis argenteo-squamigeris pedibus rufis geniculis +obscuris. + +Obs. I am doubtful whether this insect truly belongs to Megerle's genus +Festus. The antennae are much shorter than in Pachygaster. + +64. Cenchroma lanuginosa. Dej. Cat. page 95. + +65. Cenchroma obscura (n.s.) C. nigra squamis cinereis asperga clypeo +lineis duabus mediis approximatis elevatis lateribus albis, thorace +canaliculato, elytris punctis impressis striatis squamisque cinereis +subaureis praesertim ad latera aspersis, corpore subtus ad latera +pedibusque albo-squamosis. + +66. Curculio cultratus. Fab. Syst. Eleuth. 2 586. 173. +Oliv. Ins. 83. figure 157. + +Obs. This is a new genus of the Curculionidae, but as I am not able in +this place to give the characters of it, I prefer to cite the insect +under its Fabrician title. + +67. Rhynchaenus cylindrirostris. Fab. Syst. Eleuth. 2 463. 125. +Oliv. Ins. 83, figure 128. + +Obs. This insect is altogether as different from the true Rhynchaeni, as +the preceding one is from the true Curculiones. + +68. Rhynchaenus bidens. Fab. Syst. Eleuth. 2 457. 96. +Oliv. Ins. 83. figure 113. + +Obs. This is also not a true Rhynchaenus, but is a very singular insect +in appearance, as the acute spine, which rises from each elytron, appears +to be its peculiar defence against entomological collectors. + +69. Eurhinus scabrior. Kirby. in Linnean Transactions 12 page 428. 65. + +70. Rhinotia haemoptera. Kirby, in Linnean Transactions 12 page 426. + +71. Orthorhynchus suturalis (n.s.) O. nigro-fuscus punctis impressus +vertice ad oculos albo-bilineato, thorace fossula postica media alba, +elytris ad suturam linea pilis alba, corpore subtus lateribus albis. + +72. Carpophagus banksiae (n.s.) C. nigro-fuscus pilis albis aspersus +capite thoraceque punctatis linea media glabra divisis, scutello cinereo, +elytris rugosis lineis quatuor subelevatis, corpore subtus pedibusque +cinereo-sericeis. + +Table B. figure 1. + +Obs. This curious insect is said to be found on the Banksia, and would +probably, with Linnaeus, have been a Bruchus. The following are the +characters of this new genus. + +CARPOPHAGUS (novum genus.) + +Antennae ante oculos insertae filiformes articulo basilari crassiori, +secundo subgloboso brevissimo, ultimo apice conico acuto, + +Labrum semicirculare margine antico integro rotundato ciliato. + +Mandibulae validae corneae arcuatae, intus apicem versus subsinuatae +edentulae basin versus ciliatae vel submembranaceae. + +Maxillae basi corneae processubus duobus membranaceis apicem versus +instructae, lobo externo vel apicali ovali extus ciliato; interno +tenuiori lanciformi apice acuto. + +Palpi maxillares breves crassi vix ultra maxillarum apicem extensi, +quadriarticulati articulo stipitali vix conspicuo secundo obconico tertio +subgloboso breviori ultimo ovali obtuso. + +Palpi labiales triarticulati articulo stipitali minimo, secundo obconico +longiore, ultimo crassiori ovato, apice truncato. + +Labium obcordatum basi corneum angustius apice membranaceum medio +emarginatum ciliatum lobo utrinque rotundato. + +Mentum semicirculare antice rotundatum medio emarginato sive edentulo. + +Caput porrectum oculis prominulis thorace angustiua clypeo quadrato +vertice inter oculos fossulis duabus antice convergentibus. Thorax haud +marginatus lateribus haud rotundatis subcylindricus antice angustius, +postice sublobatus. Scutellum tuberculare mucronatum. Abdomen thorace +duplo latius. Elytra convexa humeris eminentibus postice divergentia +rotundata. Pedes pentameri articulis tribus tarsorum primis ciliatis +pulvillatis dilatatis, tertio bilobo, quarto brevissimo et quinto +tenuibus obconicis, hoc biunguiculato. Femora postica valde incrassata +intus unidentata; dente magno. Tibiae posticae compressae apice +dilatatae. + +73. Megamerus kingii (n.s.) M. nigro-fuscus labro palpisque piceis +thorace vix punctato postice rugoso, elytris rugis vel punctis +confluentibus substriatis fossula ad humeros profunda lineaque suturali +impressis, corpore subtus pilis sub-sericeo pedibusque concoloribus. + +Table B. figure 2. + +Obs. This singular insect has an affinity to Sagra, but differs from that +genus in having setiform antennae, porrect mandibles, and securiform +palpi. Its habit is also totally different from that of a Sagra, and more +like that of some of those insects which belong to the heterogeneous +magazine called Prionus. It is, undoubtedly, the most singular and novel +form in Captain King's collection, and forms a new genus, of which the +characters are as follow. + +MEGAMERUS (novum genus). + +Antennae inter oculos insertae filiformes vel potius setaceae articulo +basilari crassiori secundo subgloboso brevissimo apicali acuto. + +Labrum transverso-quadratum antice submembranaceum tomentosum +subemarginatum. + +Mandibulae exertae porrectae supra convexiusculae lunulatae vel +falciformes dorso subsinuatae apice vel extus oblique truncatae +acutissimae. + +Maxillae basi corneae processubus duobus submembranaceis apicem versus +instructae, lobo externo vel apicali ovali extus ciliato, interno +tenuiori apice subacuto margineque interno vix unidentato. + +Palpi maxillares quadriarticulati, articulo stipitali minimo inconspicuo, +secundo obconico longo duobus ultimis simul sumptis longitudine fere +aequali, tertio obconico crassiori, ultimo securiformi compressa. + +Palpi labiales triarticulati articulo stipitali minimo inconspicuo, +secundo longo obconico setis quibusdam ad apicem instructo, tertio +triangulari compresso vel securiformi. + +Labium membranaceum cordatam antice bilobum, lobis elongatis ciliatis +interno latere rectilineari extus ad apicem rotundatis. + +Mentum semicirculare antice rotundatum margine antico emarginato. + +Caput porrectum oculis prominentibus thorace haud angustius. Thorax +convexus antice posticeque marginatus lateribus rotundatis haud +marginatis. Scutellum triangulare subacutum. Abdomen thorace fere duplo +latius. Elytra humeris eminentibus marginatis, lateribus parallelis. +Pedes pentameri articulis tribus tarsorom primis ciliatis pulvillatis +dilatatis, penultimo bilobo, ultimo tenui biunguiculato. Femora postica +valde incrassata intus unidentata. Tibiae posticae compressae apice +dilatatae angulo externo acuto. + +Obs. The structure of the tarsus in this genus, so near in affinity to +Carpophagus and Sagra, has led me to investigate more minutely the tarsus +in the tetramerous and trimerous insects of the French entomologists, and +the result has been that the arrangement given in the third volume of M. +Cuvier's Regne Animal, is discovered to be as erroneous in point of +description, as it is inconsistent with natural affinities. + +74. Prionus bidentatus. Don. Ins. of New Holland, table 6. + +75. Prionus fasciatus. Don. Ins. of New Holland, table 6. + +76. Prionus spinicollis (n.s.) P. piceus antennis filiformibus basi +nigris articulo ultimo vix crassiore, capite fusco tomentoso, thorace +nigro-fusco punctis scabroso, lateribus spinulosus, in medio postice +carina laevi tuberculoque utrinque magno compressa scabro; scutello piceo +nigro-marginato, elytris testaceis punctulatis substriatis apice +unidentatis, pectoris lateribus rufo-tomentosis. + +77. Distichocera maculicollis. Kirby, in Linnean Transactions 12. + +78. Distichocera ? rubripennis (n.s.) D. rufo-testacea subtomentosa, +capitis lateribus oreque nigris, vertice canaliculato, antennis nigris +articulis vix biramosis ramis sinistris brevissimis, thorace atro vitta +utrinque rufotestacea, scutello nigro, elytris rufo-testaceis tomentosis +apice obtusis dehiscentibus, corpore cuneiformi subtus villo argenteo +micante, abdomine utrinque nigro maculato, pedibus nigris. + +Obs. This insect may be considered a Molorchus with elytra as long as its +wings; and it, therefore, evidently connects this genus with +Distichocera. + +79. Clytus thoracicus. Don. Sys. of New Holland, table 5. + +Obs. This insect leaves the typical form of Clytus, so much as to make me +hesitate in placing it in the genus. + +80. Callidium bajulus. Fab. Syst. Eleulh. 2 333. 2. + +Obs. This insect answers perfectly well to the specific description as +given by Fabricius, but is rather larger than the European insect, and +has eight obsolete white spots disposed in two parallel bands on the back +of the elytra. + +81. Callidium erosum (n.s.) C. nigrum capite punctato, ore testaceo, +antennis apice fuscis, thorace tomentoso punctato vel potius punctis +confluentibus eroso disco rufo medio subtuberculato, elytris acuminatis +apice deflexis lineis duabus elevatis interstitiis punctis confertissimis +pulcherrime erosis sutura margineque rufis, corpore subtus pedibusque +tomentosis. + +Var. B. Major, cavite rufo antennis fuscis, elytris rufis litura inter +lineas duas elevatas solum nigricante, pedibus nigropiceis. + +82. Callidium solandri. +Lamia solandri. Oliv. Ins. 67. 133. Plate 16. figure 118. +Fab. Ent. Syst. 2. 292. 97. + +Obs. I place Olivier's Synonym in this case first; because the Fabrician +description is so erroneous, that did we not know the original insect in +the Banksian Collection, there would be no possibility of making it out. + +83. Stenochorus semipunctatus. Fab. Syst. Eleuth. 2 306, 8. + +Obs. This and the three following species belong to the Stenochori +Callidiiformes of Schonnher. + +84. Stenochorus acanthocerus (n.s.) S. fusco-ferrugineus capite punctato, +antennis rubris articulo tertio quarto quinto et sexto apice spinosis, +ore rubro, maxillis elongatis apice ciliatis membranaceis, palpis +securiformibus, thorace obscuro utrinque unispinoso margine antico +tuberculisque dorsalibus utrinque duobus posticoque semicirculari rubris, +scutello rubro; elytris rubris fasciis tribus nigris undatis, ad basin +inter lineas elevatas subcrenatis apicemque versus punctatis apice +bidentatis; corpore subtus nigro-nitido tomentoso pedibus rubris. + +85. Stenochorus dorsalis (n.s.) S. fulvo-piceus capite angusto, labro +palpisque testaceis, vertice canaliculato, thorace inaequaliter rugoso +eminentia media ovali glabra tribusque aliis utrinque inconspicuis, +elytris bidentatis lineis subelevatis interstitiisque punctatis macula +media suturali testacea antice subemarginata, antennis subtus villosis +articulis apice haud spinosis, corpore pedibusque piceis femoribus +incrassatis. + +86. Stenochorus tunicatus (n.s.) S. flavus antennarum articulis duobus +primis nigris quinto apice septimo nonoque nigris, thorace subcylindrico +utrinque unidentato supra quadrituberculato tuberculis anticis majoribus, +elytris apice flavis unidentatis, parte basali ultra medium +subviolaceo-flava linea obliqua terminata, corpore pedibusque +flavo-testaceis. + +87. Stenoderus abbreviatus. Dej. Cat. 112. +Cerambyx abbreviatus. Fab. Syst. Eleuth. +Leptura ceramboides. Kirby, in Linnean Transactions volume 12 page 472. + +Obs. This is certainly Mr. Kirby's Leptura ceramboides, and perfectly +agrees with the Fabrician description of the Cerambyx abbreviatus, except +that no mention is there made of its mouth being yellow. Mr. Kirby says +of this insect, "a habitu Lepturae omnino recedit Cerambycibus propior," +and certainly were it allowable to judge entirely from habit, it would +seem to connect those American Saperdae of Fabricius and Olivier which +have bearded antennae, such as (S. plumigera, Oliv., barbicornis, Fab.) +with some other family, perhaps the Oedemeridae. But, however this may +be, the genus Stenoderus differs from the Cerambycidae, and agrees with +the Lepturidae, inasmuch as it has the antennae inserted between the +eyes. + +88. Stenoderus concolor (n.s.) S. obscure testceus, antennis articulo +basilari longo apice crassiori, capite thoraceque cylindrico constricto +subrufis, elytris testaceis punctatis lineis quatuor elevatis. + +89. Lamia vermicularis. Schon. in App. Syn. Ins. page 169, 234. +L. vermicularia. Don. Ins. Fab. 5. + +90. Lamia rugicollis. Schon. in App. Syn. Ins. page 169, 234. + +91. Lamia bidens. Fab. Syst. Eleuth. 2 304. 124. + +92. Acanthocinus piliger (n.s.) A. antennis obscuris pilosis apicem +versus cinereo-annulatis, capite cinereo vertice nigro bilineato, thorace +obscuro cinereo inaequali postice subcanaliculato medio utrinque +tuberculato, elytris obscuris fasciculis minutis nigris flavis +cinereisque variegatis, fascia media cinerea undata cristaque tuberculata +humeros versus. + +93. Notoclea immaculata. Marsham, in Linnean Transactions 9 291, table +25. figure 4. + +94. Notoclea variolosa. Marsham, in Linnean Transactions 9 285, table 24. +figure 1. + +95. Notoclea reticulata. Marsham, in Linnean Transactions 9 285, table +24. figure 2. + +96. Notoclea 4-maculata. Marsham, in Linnean Transactions 9 287, table +24. figure 6. + +Obs. I suspect that this insect is merely a variety of N. reticulata. + +97. Notoclea atomaria. Marsham, in Linnean Transactions 9 286, table 24. +figure 3. + +98. Notoclea splendens (n.s.) N. splendidissime cuprea antennis piceis, +scutello nigro, thorace postice elytrorum sutura maculisque duabus +dorsalibus caeruleo-viridibus, elytris novem striis punctorum +subtilissime impressis. + +99. Notoclea testacea. Marsham, in Linnean Transactions 9 289. table 24. +figure 10. + +100. Notoclea 8-maculata. Marsham, in Linnean Transactions 9 294. table +25. figure 10. + +101. Podontia nigrovaria (n.s.) P. rufa thorace punctis quatuor utrinque +inter latus et fossulas anticas duas divergentes in lineam transversam +dispositis, scutellu piceo, elytris testaceis nigro-variis striatis +striis punctatis, corpore subtus pedibusque rufis, femoribus posticis +valde incrassatis. + +Obs. This insect bears a great affinity to Chrysomela 14-punctata, Fab., +and other Asiatic insects of this type, which have been separated from +Chrysomela by Dalman in his Ephemerides Entomologicae, under the name of +Podontia. + +102. Phyllocharis cyanicornis. Dalman. Ephem. Entom. 21. Chrysomela +cyanicornis. Fab. Syst. Eleuth. 1 page 436. 85. + +103. Phyllocharis klugii (n.s.) P. rufo-testacea antennis scutello +pedibusque atro-cyaneis, capite puncto verticali, thorace macula +posticali, elytris punctato-striatis maculis duabus anticis cruceque +apicali atro-cyaneis, abdomine subtus atro-cyaneo limbo rufo. + +Obs. This species comes very near to the Chrysomela cyanipes of +Fabricius, and is probably only a variety of it. + +104. Chrysomela 18-guttata. Fab. Syst. Eleuth. 1 439. 101. +Don. Ins. of New Holland, table 2. + +105. Chrysomela curtisii. Kirby, in Linnean Transactions volume 12. + +106. Cryptocephalus tricolor. Fab. Syst. Eleuth. 2 51. 55. +Var. beta. Thoracis macula media nigra. + +107. Cassida deusta. Fab. Syst. Eleuth. 1 396.44. +Oliv. Ins. 97. table 1 figure 17. + +108. Coccinella kingii (n.s.) C. pallide testacea thorace medio maculis +quinque nigris duabus anticis elongatia tribusque posticis rotundatis, +elytris nigro-tripunctatis punctis humeralibus duobus alioque media +marginali. + +Order ORTHOPTERA. + +109. Blatta australis (n.s.) B. elongato-ovata, ferrugineo-fusca thorace +suborbiculato-quadrato, marginibus laterali et posticali lunulisque +utrinque duabus paulisper impressis, fascia ante marginem posticum nigrum +lata alba transversa, et lineolis duabus longitudinalibus mediis rufis +carinulam formantibus in furcam flavam ad marginem anticum desinentibus. + +Obs. The elytra of the male are much longer than the abdomen. + +110. Mantis quinquedens (n.s.) M. dilute-viridis thorace haud tripla +longiore quam latiore, dorso parte antica, canaliculata excepta +longitrorsum carinato, marginibus lateralibus denticulatis, elytris +thorace duplo longioribus elongato-ovatis dilute viridibus margine +externo maculaque media elevata flavescentibus; alis hyalinis dilute +ferrugineis margine antico apiceque subfuscis; pedibus anticis coxis +denticulatis margine interna piceo lineis quatuor albis elevatis +transversis in dentes desinentibus. + +111. Mantis darchii (n.s.) M. dilute viridis thorace quadruplo longiore +quam latiore, dorso parte antica canaliculata excepta longitrorsum +carinato, marginibus lateralibus postice haud denticulatis, elytris +thorace haud duplo longioribus linearibus acuminatis antice viridibus +margine flavescente postice subhyalinis subfuscis, nervo costam versus +crassiore, aiis apice acuminatis margine antico dilute rufescente, medio +nigro punctis hyalinis et parte postica fusca obscura vix maculata. + +Mantis darchii. Captain P.P. King, manuscripts. + +Obs. This insect has been named by Captain King after his friend Thomas +Darch, Esquire, of the Admiralty. + +112. Phasma titan (n.s) P. corpore decem unciarum longo, subcinereo-fusco +lineari, thorace spinulis quibusdam raris acutis elytris longiore, his +nigro-viridibus testaceo maculatis maculaque in marginis antici medio +magna alba, alis membranaceis nigro-fuscis albo-maculatis, antice +coriaceis ad basin rubris nigro-maculatis ad apicem nigro-viridibus +testaceo maculatis, pedibus albo-cinereis coxis anticis trigonis angulo +inferiori dentibus magnis rufis postico minoribus et superiori nullis. + +Obs. This immense insect, which is nearly a foot long, is now for the +first time described, although it seems to be not uncommon in New South +Wales. Although much larger, it comes very near to the P. Gigas of +Linnaeus and Stoll, and like it, belongs to Lichtenstein's division, thus +characterized, "Alata elytris alisque in utroque sexu." + +113. Phasma tiartum (n.s.) P. corpore fere quinque unciarum longo +cuneiformi viridi, capite tiara acuminata spinulosa coronato, thorace +antice angusto subdepresso spinuloso postice dilatato convexiori +marginibus lateralibus denticulatis, abdomine antice cylindrico medio +valde dilatato margine dentato et in processum segmentorum trium linearem +desinente segmentis supra binis laminis dentatis in medio armatis, +elytris viridibus subovatis minutis alarum rudimentis brevioribus; +pedibus viridibus coxis triquetris, anticis angulo interiori tridentato, +superiori denticulato processu ad apicem cristato, inferiori dilatato +rotundato, quatuor posticis dilatatis ovatis margine denticulatis, +femoribus anticis extus dilatatis rotundatis apicem versus +subemarginatis, quatuor posticis triquetris angulis dentatis exteriori +valde dilatato. Table B. figure 3 et 4. + +Obs. I have been thus particular in the description of this rare insect, +in order to afford as much information as possible to the naturalist, who +may be inclined to investigate the natural arrangement of the Phasmina. + +114. Locusta salicifolia (n.s.) L. viridis thorace supra plano lateribus +perpendicularibus angulis flavescentibus, elytris alis brevioribus +lanceolato-ovatis, costa flava punctis utrinque ad medium impressis alis +hyalinis acuminatis apice viridibus. + +Obs. This insect differs from the L. unicolor of Stoll, a Javanese +insect, inasmuch as its thorax is not dentated, and is marked at the +angles with yellow. + +115. Gryllus pictus. Leach, Zool. Misc. 1 table 25. + +116. Gryllus regulus (n.s.) G. ferrugineo-fuscus antennis filiformibus +nigris, elytris obscure nebulosis, alis fusco-hyalinis, thoracis +lateribus postice testaceis, corpore subtus rufo-testaceo, tibiis +posticis testaceis spinis dorsalibus rufis apicibus nigris. + +Order NEUROPTERA. + +117. Libellula sanguinea (n.s.) L. tota sanguinea alis hyalinis stigmate +fulvo nervisque sanguineis, posticis basi flavescentibus. + +118. Libellula oculata. Fab. Ent. Syst. 2 376. 9. + +119. Libellula stigmatizans. Fab. Ent. Syst. 2 375. 8. + +120. Lestes belladonna (n.s.) L. supra viridis subtus albescens pedibus +nigris, alis quatuor cultratis macula ad marginem apicalem alba. + +121. Agrion kingii (n.s.) A. capite nigro, fronte corporeque subtus +albidis, thorace abdomineque supra fuscis, segmentis abdominalibus nigro +alboque annulatis, alis hyalinis stigmate fusco. + +Order HYMENOPTERA. + +122. Ophion luteum. Fab. Syst. Piez. 130. 1. + +Obs. This seems, according to Fabricius, to be merely a variety of the +common European insect. + +123. Liris angulata. Fab. Syst. Piez. 230. 9. + +124. Pompilus morio. Fab. Syst. Piez. 187. 1. + +125. Pompilus collaris. Fab. Syst. Piez. 187. 2. + +126. Alyson tomentosum (n.s.) A. nigro-pubescens abdominis segmentis +apice argenteis, alis apice nigricantibus. + +127. Thynnus variabilis. Leach, manuscripts. +Thynnus dentatus. Fab. Syst. Piez. 231. 1. + +128. Eumenes campaniformis. Fab. Syst. Piez. 287. 10. + +129. Eumenes apicalis (n.s.) E. flava thoracis spatio inter alas +segmentique abdominalis secundi parte basali nigris, alis flavis apice +fuscis. + +130. Centris bombylans. Fab. Syst. Piez. 358. 19. + +CLASS HAUSTELLATA. + +Order LEPIDOPTERA. + +131. Papilio eurypilus. Linn. Syst. Nat. 2 page 754. 49. +Godart. Enc. Meth. Hist. Nat. 9 45. 61. + +Obs. Captain King found an insect on the north coast of New Holland, +which, I think, can only be deemed a variety of P. eurypilus, a species +hitherto recorded as inhabiting Java and Amboyna. This variety is +distinguished from the euripilus of Godart by several minute differences. + +132. Papilio macleayanus. Godart, Enc. Meth. Hist. Nat. 9 47. 65. + +133. Papilio sthenelus (n.s.) P. alis nigris flavo-maculatis posticis +dentatis fascia maculaque adjecta flavis, ocello anali rufo lunulae +caeruleae submisso. + +Obs. This species is in New Holland what demoleus is in Africa, and epius +in India. It is even difficult to determine whether the three may not be +varieties of one species. If varieties, however, they are certainly +permanent according to the above localities, and this species may be +easily distinguished from epius, which it most resembles, by the large +yellow spot near the middle of the superior margin of the upper wing. +This spot is divided into two in epius and demoleus. Moreover, the band +of the lower wing in P. sthenelus is only attended with one small spot. + +134. Papilio anactus (n.s.) P. alis nigro-fuscis, anticis +griseo-maculatis, inferis dentatis fascia alba extus dentata lunula media +nigra limbique nigri lunulis quinque caeruleis ocellis tot rufis +submissis. + +Obs. This fine species is of the middle size, and seems to have a +relation both with P. epius and P. machaon. The vertex is +orange-coloured, with a black line in the middle. The two upper wings are +slightly dentated, the lower dentations being marked with white spots. +There are three grey spots in the middle of the superior margin of the +wing, of which the largest is the one nearest to the body; on the outside +of these are two parallel rows of grey spots, the first range consisting +of about nine oblong spots unequal in size, and the outer range of eight +smaller, whitish, and round spots. The white band of the lower wings, +which are not tailed, has a black crescent-like spot in the middle; and +on the outside, two parallel rows of five spots, the one blue and the +other red, The emarginations of these wings are fringed with white. The +underside of this insect is like the upper, except that the colours are +more pronounced, and that there are two round white spots on the outside +of the white band of the lower wings. + +135. Papillo cressida. Godart, Enc. Meth. Hist. Nat. 9. 76. 145. + +136. Papilio harmonia. Don. Ins. of New Holland. +P. Harmonoides. Godart, Enc. Meth. Hist. Nat. 9 76. 146. + +137. Pontia crokera (n.s.) P. alis integerrimis niveis anticis apice +punctoque nigris, posticis cinereo-submarginatis subtus flavo-irroratis. +P. crokera. Captain P.P. King, manuscripts. + +Obs. This insect is of Godart's fifth size, and comes very near to his +Pieris nina. The wings are of a fine white colour, particularly the +upper. These have their summit black, and a minute black point, near the +middle. The under wings are without any spots, but are bordered behind by +a cinereous thread. The underside of the upper wings have the costa and +summit covered with spots and minute incontinuous lines of a yellowish +colour. The underside of the lower wings are sulphureous, with very fine +undulating or rather incontinuous lines of a yellowish colour. + +The species has been named by Captain King, after John Wilson Croker, +Esquire, M.P., and first secretary to the Admiralty. + +138. Pieris niseia (n.s.) P. alis albis limbo late nigro; anticis macula +media nigra limboque albo-trimaculato; posticis subtus nigro-venosis +limbi maculis luteo-notatis. + +Obs. This insect comes very near to the P. teutonia of Godart and +Donovan, particularly in its underside. It is, however, smaller than that +insect. The upper wings are white, with a posterior broad black +subtriangular border, having two or three white spots at the apex. These +wings have a black spot near their middle, which is also on the +underside, but there communicates by a transverse, short, and rather +curved, black band, with a black superior edging of the wing. In other +respects the underside of the superior wings is like the upper, except +perhaps that it is yellowish at the base. The lower wings have their +upper side white, with a broad black border. Their underside is strongly +veined with black, having the base and the middle of the outer row of +white spots in the posterior margin of the wing yellowish. + +139. Pieris scyllara (n.s.) P. alis integerrimis albis limbo exteriori +utrinque nigro: anticis elongato-trigonis maculis apicalibus quatuor +albis. + +Obs. This species comes very near to P. lyncida of Godart. Its wings are +white above. The upper ones have their costa blackish, and a triangular +border at their extremity rather dentated on the inside. On this black +border is a transverse row of four or five white spots, unequal in size. +The lower wings have also a black border with one white spot, and which +is simply crenated on the inside. The underside of the four wings +scarcely differs from the upper, except that the black borders above +mentioned are in general more pale, and those of the lower wings are +broader than on the upper side. + +140. Pieris nysa. Fab. Syst. Ent. 3 195. 606. +P. Eudora. Don. Ins. of New Holland. +P. Nysa. Godart, Enc. Meth. Hist. Nat. 9 152. 118. +P. Eudora. Godart, Enc. Meth. Hist. Nat. 9 152. 117 ? + +Obs. On an inspection of the original Pieris nysa of Fab., in the +Banksian cabinet, I find it to be the same with the P. eudora of Donovan, +the only difference being that the under wings are less cinereous on the +upper side, and the upper wings have more white at the extremity of the +yellow spots at the base of their undersides. These minute differences +appear to be sexual. At all events this is undoubtedly the P. eudora of +Donovan, in his Insects of New Holland. M. Godart, however, most +erroneously quotes another work of Donovan, namely, The Insects of India, +and gives an erroneous description, apparently from confounding some +Indian insect with the insect described by Donovan. Godart has also +erroneously altered the Fabrician description of P. nysa, and thus added +to the multitude of proofs which his laborious work affords, that the +continental entomologists have no means of undertaking a complete +description of species, without visiting the extensive collections of +London. + +141. Pieris nigrina. Godart, Enc. Meth. Hist. Nat. 9 149. 108. + +142. Pieris aganippe. Godart, Enc. Meth. H. Nat. 9 153. 121. + +143. Pibris smilax. Don. Ins. of New Holland. +P. Smilax. Godart, Enc. Meth. Hist. Nat. 9 136. 56. + +Obs. As Godart here again cites Donovan's work on the Insects of India, +instead of his Insects of New Holland, I am inclined to think that he +never saw those works. + +144. Pieris herla (n.s.) P. alis rotundatis integerrimis flavis, anticis +apice fuscis, posticis margine nigro-sublineatis subtus testaceis atomis +griseis aspersis. + +Obs. This insect is larger than P. smilax, but resembles it extremely in +its upper side. The underside, however, is different, as the extremity of +the upper wings and the whole of the under wings are of a fawn colour. +The underside of the lower wings is also sprinkled with some grey atoms, +and marked obscurely with a fuscous band under two points. + +145. Euplaea chrysippus. Godart, Enc. Meth. H.N. 9 187.88. + +Obs. Captain King has brought a variety of this insect from New Holland, +which only differs from the European specimen figured by Hubner, in the +row of white points round the edge of the upper side of the lower wings +being evanescent. This species is one of those which have a great range +of distribution, being found in Naples, Egypt, Syria, India, Java, and +New Holland. + +146. Euplaea affinis. Godart. Enc. Meth. H. Nat. 9 182. 21. + +147. Euplaea hamata (n.s.) E. abdomine supra nigro subtus fusco alis +repandis SUPRA atris; omnibus utrinque ad extimum punctis ad basin +maculis subbifidis virescenti-albis: subtus anticarum apice posticarumque +pagina omni, olivaceo-fuscescentibus. + +Obs. This insect comes so very near to the Euplaea limniace, of Godart +and Cramer, which is common on the Coromandel Coast as well as in Java +and Ceylon, that I can scarcely consider it as any thing but a variety of +that species. It differs, however, in being constantly of a smaller size, +in its abdomen being black, and in the exterior row of white spots on the +under wings not extending much more than half way round the margin of +these wings. Captain King found this insect in surprising numbers on +various parts of the North-east Coast, particularly at Cape Cleveland. +See volume 1. + +148. Danais tulliola. Fab. Ent. Syst. 3 page 41. 123. + +Obs. I reserve the generic name of Danais for such of M. Latreille's +genus as have no pouches to the lower wings of their males; and to the +remainder I give the Fabrician generic name of Euplaea. + +149. Danais darchia, (n.s.) P. alis integris fuscis velutinis +caeruleo-micantibus, omnibus supra fascia maculari intra punctorum seriem +marginalem abbreviatam alba; anticis puncto albo costali. + +Danais Darchia. Captain P.P. King MSS. + +Obs. This is exactly the size of D. eleusine, to which it appears to come +very near. The upper side of the four wings is brownish-black, having +towards the margin an arched band of violet-coloured white spots, of +which the greatest is at the extremity of the wing. There is also on the +superior margin, about the middle of the upper wing, a white point, and +at its inferior angle a marginal series of a few white points. The upper +side of the lower wings has an abbreviated series of marginal points on +the outside of an arched series of violet-coloured whitish lunulae. The +underside answers well to the description given by Godart of the +underside of his Danais eunice, except that D. darchia has only one white +point in the middle of the upper wing. + +This species bas been named by Captain King after his friend Thomas +Darch, Esquire, of the Admiralty. + +150. Danais corinna (n.s.) P. alis integris fuscis velutinis +caeruleo-micantibus, anticis punctis quatuor costalibus, maculis duabus +angularibus et punctorum serie marginali albis, punctis extimum versus +majoribus; alis posticis punctorum serie marginali et macularum +longitudinalium fascia discoidali albis. + +Obs. This species comes between the Danais cora of Godart and his D. +coreta. The underside differs in having the marginal series of white +points continued to the very tip of the upper wings, while they have +three other points in the disc. There are also eight or nine similar +white points between the base of the lower wings and the band of +longitudinal spots. + +151. Nymphalis lassinassa. Godart. Enc. Meth. 9 395. 155. + +152. Vanessa itea. Godart. Enc. Meth. 9 321. 57. + +153. Vanessa cardui, var. Godart. Enc. Meth. 9 323. 62. + +154. Satyrus banksia. Godart. Enc. Meth. 9 477, 3. + +155. Satyrus abeona. Godart. Enc. Meth. 9 497. 72. + +156. Satyrus merope. Godart. Enc. Meth. 9 500. 80. + +157. Satyrus archemor. Godart. Enc. Meth. 9 500. 81. + +158. Argynnis niphe. Godart. Enc. Meth. 9 261. 17. + +159. Argynnis tephnia. Godart. Enc. Meth. 9 262. 18. + +160. Acrea andromacha. Fab. Ent. Syst. 3 182. 564. +A. entoria. Godart. Enc. Meth. 9. + +Obs. The original insect of Fabricius is in the Banksian cabinet, and +affords further cause of regret, that the article "Papillon," of the +Encyclopedie Methodique, should have been undertaken by a person who had +not studied the classical collections that exist out of Paris. M. Godart +describes this insect as a new species, under the name of Entoria, and +makes it an inhabitant of the West Coast of Africa. + +161. Cethosia penthesilea. Godart. Enc. Meth. 9 248. 13. + +Obs. This species bas hitherto been described only as a native of Java, +but Captain King found several specimens of a variety of it on the North +Coast of New Holland. + +162. Hesperia rafflesia, (n.s.) H. atra alis integerrimis; anticis fascia +maculari abbreviata sulphurea atomisque apicem versus subviridibus +aspersis, posticis rotundatis fascia basali ovali sulphurea abbreviata, +caudata corporis fascia media sulphurea ano palpisque vivide rufis. + +Obs. This beautiful species I have named after Sir Stamford Raffles, to +whose scientific ardour and indefatigable exertions in Java and Sumatra, +every Naturalist must feel himself indebted. + +The undersides of the wings are spotted like the upper, the only +difference being, that round the whole disc of the four wings there runs +a band of ashy-green atoms. The antennae and feet are black, and the +breast whitish. The vivid colour of the yellow spots on the velvety black +of the wings distinguish it at once from every known species. + +163. Urania orontes. Godart. Enc. Meth. 9 710. 4. +Var. alis atro-viridibus, anticis fasciis duabus posticis +cupreo-viridibus, unica lata. + +Obs. This beautiful variety of an insect hitherto described as peculiar +to Java and Amboyna was found in immense numbers, flitting among a grove +of Pandanus trees, growing on the banks of a stream near the extremity of +Cape Grafton, upon the North-east Coast of New Holland. See volume 2. + +164. Agarista agricola. Don. Ins. of New Holland. +Agarista picta. Leach, Zool. Misc. volume 1 table 15 +-- Godart. Enc. Meth. 9 803. 2. + +Obs. As Donovan described and figured this insect many years before Dr. +Leach, his name has the right of priority. + +165. Sphinx latreillii (n.s.) S. alis integris; superis +griseo-flavescentibus atomis brunneis aspersis, punctis duobus nigris +basalibus et fasciis quatuor obscuris subapicalibus, inferis +griseo-nigrescentibus apicem versos subflavescentibus. +Dielophila Latreillii. De Cerisy manuscripts. + +Obs. The underside of the four wings is very pale, of a yellowish-gray +colour, traversed by a line of blackish points, which indeed are +dispersed very generally over the whole surface. The disk of the upper +wings is rather blacker than the rest. The head and thorax are of the +colour of the wings, their sides and the conical abdomen being rather +lighter. The antennae are ciliated, whitish above, and brownish beneath. + +166. Sphinx godarti (n.s.) S. abdomine griseo linea media longitudinali +guttulisque lateralibus nigrescentibus, alis integris; superis +griseo-nigrescentibus maculis irregularibus nigris punctoque medio albo, +inferis griseo-flavescentibus fasciis tribus nigris. +Dielophila Godarti. De Cerisy manuscripts. + +Obs. All the wings are of a gray colour beneath, the fringe being +alternately white and brown. The thorax is gray, with a narrow, tawny, +transverse mark, a lateral white fascia, two black curved marks, and on +the hinder part a black spot. The body beneath is of a whitish colour. + +167. Macroglossum kingii (n.s.) M. capite thoraceque viridibus, abdomine +nigro flavoque variegato, alis integris hyalinis subtus ad originem +flavis, superis basin versus brunneis pilis viridescentibus obtectis +costa limboque posteriori brunneis, inferis ad originem limbumque +internum brunneo-viridescentibus. +Macroglossum kingii. De Cerisy manuscripts. + +Obs. The antennae of this beautiful species are black, very slender at +the base, and thick towards the extremity. The palpi are greenish above +and white beneath. The breast is white in the middle, and yellow at the +sides. The two first segments of the abdomen are, on the upper side, gray +in the middle, and yellow on the sides; the third segment is black, with +a part of the anterior edge yellowish towards the side; the fourth +segment is entirely black, having only a white fringe on its anterior +edge; the fifth segment is of an orange yellow, with the middle black; +the sixth segment is entirely yellow, and the whole abdomen is terminated +by a pencil of hairs, which are yellow at their base, and black at the +extremity. The thighs are whitish, with the tibiae and tarsi yellow. + +168. Cossus nebulosus. Don. Insects of New Holland. + +169. Euprepia crokeri (n.s.) E. alba antennis fuscis, cavite nigro +bipunctato, thorace linea transversa miniata antice punctis quatuor et +postice duodecim nigris, alis testaceo-fuscis, superis ad basin albis +punctis axillaribus tribus atris maculisque duabus mediis hyalinis, +abdomine supra miniato subtus albo lateribus duplici serie punctorum +nigrorum notatis, pedibus chermesinis. +Euprepia crokeri. Captain P.P. King manuscripts. + +Obs. This lovely insect, of which two specimens were taken at sea, has +been named by Captain King after John Wilson Croker, Esquire, M.P., and +First Secretary of the Admiralty. + +170. Noctua cyathina (n.s.) N. fusco-grisea subtus pallidior, alis +superis linea transversa fusca sub-undata aliisque marginalibus obscuris +fascia apicem versus fulva undata intus lineola fusca terminata, ad +marginem externum dilatata, limbo punctorum serie vix marginato, subtus +fascia alba, posteris supra apicem versus nigris fascia media maculisque +tribus marginalibus albis, subtus macula marginali pallidiori margine +nigro punctato. + +Order HOMOPTERA. + +171. Cicada australasiae. Don. Ins. of New Holland. + +172. Cicada zonalis (n.s.) C. capite thoraceque flavis, hoc macularum +fascia nigrarum punctisque posticis variegato, abdomine atro fascia +antica rubra analibusque tribus albis, lamellis basalibus subviridibus, +elytris hyalinis costis viridibus pedibusque testaceis. + +Order HEMIPTERA. + +173. Scutellera banksii. Don. Ins. of New Holland. + +Obs. This insect varies so much in colour, that I almost think it to be +the same species with the following S. cyanipes, Fab. + +174. Scutellera cyanipes. +Tetyra cyanipes. Fab. Syst. Rhyng. 133. 23. + +175. Scutellera imperialis. +Tetyra imperialis. Fab. Syst. Rhyng. 128. 1. + +176. Scutellera corallifera (n.s.) S. supra cyanea linea verticali nigra +thorace antice aurato, scutello ad basin macula transversa rubra, corpore +subtus nigro-cyaneo pectoris lateribus auratis abdominis lateribus rubris +anoque viridi, pedibus rubris tibiis tarsisque nigro-cyaneis. + +177. Scutellera pagana. +Tetyra pagana. Fab. Syst. Rhyng. 134. 29. + +178. Pentatoma caelebs. +Cimex caelebs. Fab. Ent. Syst. 4 111. 119. + +179. Pentatoma elegans. +Cimex elegans. Don. Ins. of New Holland. + +180. Lygaeus regalis (n.s.) L. capite rubro, antennis nigris, thorace +flavo-marginato antice lineis alba nigraque transverse notato, scutello +nigro, elytris flavis macula media parteque apicali membranacea nigris, +corpore subtus fulvo lateribus albo-lineatis pedibus nigro-brunneis. + +Order DIPTERA. + +181. Stratiomys hunteri (n.s.) S. nigro-brunnea tomentosa, post-scutello +flavo, abdomine supra nigro maculis utrinque basin versus duabus +viridibus, subtus viridi, pedibus flavis. +Stratiomys hunteri. Captain P.P. King manuscripts. + +Obs. This insect has been named by Captain King after Mr. James Hunter, +the surgeon of the Mermaid. + +182. Asilus inglorius (n.s.) A. obscuro-luteus abdomine ad basin pilis +flavis hirsuto, alis flavo-hyalinis apice obscurioribus, pedibus rufis +geniculis tarsisque nigris. + +183. Tabanus guttatus. Don. Ins. of New Holland. + +184. Tabanus cinerescens (n.s.) T. cinereo-ferrugineus subtus albescens, +alis hyalinis basin versus subluteis, abdomine linea media maculisque +quatuor utrinque cinereis. + +185. Pangonia roei. (n.s.) P. rostro brevi tota ferruginea nitida, +abdomine subtus testaceo alis fulvo-hyalinis apice margineque exteriori +saturatioribus fasciisque duabus mediis obscuris marginalibus. +Pangonia roei. Captain P.P. King manuscripts. + +Obs. This insect has been named after Lieutenant John S. Roe, R.N.; one +of the assistant-surveyors of the expedition. + +186. Anthrax prae-argentatus (n.s.) A. supra niger pilis flavescentibus +tomentosus subtus albidus, ore albo, pedibus nigris, alis +brunneo-hyalinis margine exteriori saturatioribus apice albis. + +187. Anthrax bombyliformis (n.s.) A. nigro-bmnneus post-scutello +ferrugineo, abdomine supra ad basin fulvo apice albo fasciaque media +fusca, subtus albo pedibus atro-brunneis alis hyalinis basi margineque +exteriori fuscis maculisque aliquot discoidalibus. + +188. Musca splendida. Don. Ins. of New Holland. + +Class ARACHNIDA. + +189. Nephila cunninghamii (n.s.) N. thorace sericeo cinereo, geniculis +incrassatis pedibus nigro-fulvis, tibiarum primo et postremo pari +flavo-annulatis. +Nephila cunninghamii. Captain P.P. King manuscripts. + +Named after Mr. Allan Cunningham, the botanist of the expedition. + +Obs. The genus Nephila has been very properly separated from Epeira by +Dr. Leach in the Zoological Miscellany. + +190. Uloborus canus (n.s.) U. albescens thorace convexo, pedum pari +secundo longiori, femoribus nigro-punctatis. + +191. Linyphia deplanata (n.s.) L. rufo-testacea mandibulis pedibusque +apicem versus nigris, thorace sub-circulari plano, pedum secundo pari +longiori. + +Obs. The principal difference of this spider from the genus Linyphia, as +characterized by Latreille, consists in the circumstance of the two +largest of the four middle eyes being the posterior ones. The palpi of +the male are in this species each provided with a spiral screw resembling +the tendril of a vine. + +192. Thomisus morbillosus (n.s.) T. pedibus quatuor primis longioribus, +cinereus thorace macula postica sublunari magna viridifusca, pedibus +sub-geminatim fusco maculatis. + +... + +CIRRIPEDES. + +Anatifera sulcata. Gray, Ann. Phil. 1825. +Pentalasmis sulcata, Leach. +Montague, Test. Brit. + +... + +RADIATA. + +CENTRONIA. + +1. Echinus ovum ? Peron and Lesueur. Lam. Hist. 3 48. + +This specimen, presented to the Museum, agrees very well with the short +description given by Lamarck of this species. + +2. Echinus variolaris. Lam. Hist. 3 47. + +This specimen, agreeing very well with the description of one found by +Peron, is very remarkable; and has the larger area agrulate and +ornamented with two rows of white tubercles, nearly as large as those in +the genus Cidaris; the pores in the upper part are not perforated, and +are placed in segments of circles round small tubercles. + +3. Echinometra lucunter. +Echinus lucunter. Gmel. Sys. Nat. 1 3176. +Icon. Ency. Method. t. 134. f. 3, 4, 7. + +ANOMALIA. + +Physalia megalista ? Peron Voyage 1 Lam. Hist. 2 481. +Icon. Peron, Voyage Atlas, t. 29. f. 1. + +No specimen of this animal was preserved, but Captain King observes, that +the animal he caught, of which he made a drawing, differed from Lesueur's +figure of P. megalista, in being of smaller size, and with fewer tints; +the colour of the tentacula was a brighter purple tipped with yellow +globules, and the crest of a greenish hue, but the general colour of the +animal was purple. It measured from three-quarters to one inch in length. +Captain King considered it to be a variety of P. megalista. + +Porpita gigantea. Peron, Voyage 2. Lam. Hist. 2 485. +Icon. Peron and Lesueur, Atlas, t. 31. f. 6. + +A very beautiful and accurate drawing of this curious animal was made by +Lieutenant Roe. M. Lesueur's figure is also very correctly drawn. + +ACRITA. + +ZOOPHYTA. + +1. Tubipora musica. Gmel. Syst. Nat. 1 3753. Lam. Hist. 2 209. +Icon. Seba. Mus. 3 t. 110. f. 8, 9. Soland. and Ellis. t. 27. + +According to Peron, the animals of this coral are furnished with +green-fringed tentacula. + +2. Pavonia lactuca, Lam. Hist. 2 239. +Madrepora lactuca, Pallas, Zooph. 289. +Icon. Soland, and Ellis, t. 44. + +3. Explanaria mesenterina, Lam. Hist. il. 255. +Madrepora cinerascens, Soland. and Ellis. +Icon. Soland. and Ellis, Number 26. t. 43. + +4. Agaricia ampliata, Lam. Hist. 2 243. +Madrepora ampliata, Soland. and Ellis, 157. +Icon. Soland. and Ellis, t. 41. f. 1, 2. + +5. Fungia agariciformis, Lam. Hist. 2 236. +Madrepora fungites, Gmel. Syst. Nat. 1 3757. +Icon. Soland. and Ellis, page 149. t. 58. f. 5, 6. + +6. Fungia limacina, Lam. Hist. 2 237. +Madrepora pileus, Gmel. Syst. Nat. 1 3758. +Icon. Soland. and Ellis, t. 45. Seba. Mus. 3 t. 111. f. 3, 5. + +7. Fungia compressa, Lam. Hist. 2 235. + +8. Caryophillia ? fastigiata, Lam. Hist. 2 228. +Madrepora fastigiata, Gmel. Syst. Nat. 1 3777. +Icon. Soland. and Ellis, t. 33. Esp. Suppl. t. 82. + +9. Porites subdigitata, Lam. Hist. 2 271. +Icon. -- + +10. Porites clavaria, Lam. Hist. 2 270. +Madrepora porites, Gmel. Syst. Nat. 1 3774. +Icon. Soland. and Ellis, t. 47. f. 1. + +11. Astrea stellulata ? Lam. Hist. 2 261. +Madrepora stellulata, Soland. and Ellis, page 165. +Icon. Soland. and Ellis. t. 53. f. 3, 4. + +Obs. The stars in this specimen are more numerous, and do not perforate. + +12. Madrepora prolifera. Lam. Hist. 2 281. +Madrepora muricata, Gmel. Syst. 1 3775. +Icon. Soland. and Ellis, t. 57. + +13. Madrepora abrotanoides, Lam. Hist. 2 280. +Madrepora muricata, Gmel. Sys. Nat. 1 3775. +Icon. Soland. and Ellis, t. 57. + +14. Seriatopora subulata, Lam. Hist. 2 282. +Madrepora seriata, Pallas. Zooph. p 336. +Madrepora lineata, Esper. Suppl. 1 t. 19. +Icon. Soland. and Ellis, t. 31. f. 1. 2. + +15. Madrepora laxa (?) Lam. Hist. 2 280. + +16. Madrepora plantaginea (?) Lam. Hist. 2 279. +Icon. Esper. Suppl. 1 t. 54. + +17. Madrepora corymbosa, Lam. Hist. 2 279. + +18. Madrepora pocillifera, Lam. Hist. 2 280. + +19. Gorgonia flabellum, Gmel. Syst. Nat. 1 3809. +Flabellum Veneris, Ellis, Corall. page 76. +Icon. Soland. and Ellis, t. 26. f. A. + +20. Galaxaria cylindrica, Lamouroux. +Corallina cylindrica, Soland. and Ellis, 114. +Icon. Soland. and Ellis, t. 22. f. 4. + +21. Spongia muricina (?) Lam. Hist. 2 369. Number 74. +Icon. Seba. Mus. 3 t. 97. f. 2. + +22. Spongia perfoliata, Lam. Hist. 2 370. Number 78. +Icon. -- + +23. Spongia basta, Pallas. Zooph. 379. Lam. Hist. 2 371. Number 82. +Icon. -- Esper. 2 t. 25. + +24. Spongia alcicornis, Esper. Lam. Hist. 2 380. Number l26. +Icon. -- Esper. 2 page 248. t. 28. + +25. Spongia spiculifera ? Lam. Hist. 2 376. Number 106. +Icon. -- + +Three or four other species of Spongia were brought home, which I have +not been able to identify with all of Lamarck's descriptions, or with any +figures; but as this author has described many species from the +collection of Peron and Lesueur, which have not hitherto been figured, I +have not considered them as new, until I have had an opportunity of +examining more New Holland species, and of seeing those described by +Lamarck. + +... + + +MOLLUSCA. + +BY JOHN EDWARD GRAY, ESQUIRE, F.G.S. + +1. CONCHOPHORA. + +1. Solenomya australis. +Solemya Australis, Lam. Hist. 5 489. +Mya marginipectinata, Peron and Lesueur. + +2. Mactra abbreviata ? Lam. Hist. 5 477. n. 20. +Icon. -- + +This collection contains a considerable number of specimens of a shell +agreeing with the short specific character given by Lamarck of the above; +but as it has not been figured, I have referred to it with a mark of +doubt. The shells are rather solid, white, or white variegated with +purple, with numerous concentric wrinkles, which are more distinct nearer +the margin; the umbones, covered with a thin pale periostraca, nearly +smooth and polished, with a small purple spot, the inside white, with the +disk and posterior slope purple; the anterior and posterior slopes +distinct, the lunule and escutcheon deeply and distinctly sulcated; +length fourteen-tenths of an inch; height one inch. + +3. Mactra ovalina, Lam. Hist. 5 477. + +This shell is nearly of the same shape as the last, but the anterior +slope is rounded and circumscribed, and the posterior only marked by a +raised line in the periostraca. The shell is thin, white; with a pale +brown and deeply grooved escutcheon. + +4. Solen truncatus, Wood. Conch. +Solen ceylonensis, Leach, Zool. Misc. 1 22. table 7. +Solen vagina, b. Lam. Hist. 5 451. +Icon. Wood. Conch. t. 26. f. 3. 4. Ency. Method. t. 222. f. 1. + +5. Cardium tenuicostatum, Lam. Hist. 6 5. +Icon. -- + +The shell when perfect is white, with rose-coloured umbones; the rose +colour is often extended down the centre of the shell, forming concentric +zones. + +6. Lucina divaricata, Lam. Hist. 5 541. +Tellina divaricata, Gmel. Sys. Nat. 1 3241. +Icon. Chemn. Conch. 6 134. t. 13. f. 129. + +7. Venerupis galactites, nob. +Venus galactites, Lam. Hist. 5 599. +Icon. -- + +The fact of Lamarck having placed in the genus Venus this shell, which a +modern conchologist has considered as a variety of Venerupis perforans, +shows the very great affinity that exists between those genera. + +8. Venus flammiculata ? Lam. Hist. 5 605. +Icon. -- + +This shell is pale yellowish, with irregular, large, distinct, concentric +ridges, and distinctly radiated striae; the umbones smooth, polished, +orange-yellow; the lozenge lanceolate, purple; the inside golden-yellow; +the anterior and posterior dorsal margins purple. + +9. Venus tessellata (n.s.) +Testa ovato-oblonga, albida, lineis purpureis angulatis picta; sulcis +concentricis, ad latus posteriorem lamellatis; marginibus integerrimis. +Icon. -- + +Shell ovate-oblong, white, polished, with rows of square purple spots, +forming regular lines, with the points directed toward the back of the +shell; covered with many distinct, nearly equal, concentric, smooth +ridges; the front part of the ridges somewhat elevated, thin, hinder part +distinctly lamellar and much elevated: the lunule subulate, lanceolate; +the edge quite entire; umbones with a purple spot; inside white, except +on the anterior and posterior dorsal edges, which are purple; length +eight-tenths, height six-tenths of an inch. + +There are two other specimens of this shell in the Museum which do not +agree with any that Lamarck describes; one of these being fourteen-tenths +of an inch long, and one inch high, is double the size of Captain King's +specimen; its habitation is not marked, but the other specimen is from +Ceylon. + +10. Cytherea kingii (n.s.) +Testa ovato-cordata, tumida, albida, concentrice substriata, radiata, +radiis flavicantibus; lunula lanceolato-cordata; intus albida. + +Shell ovate, heart-shaped, white or pale brown, with darker brown rays, +each formed of several narrow lines, the umbones white, the edge quite +entire; the lunule lanceolate heart-shaped, obscurely defined, the centre +rather prominent; inside white, the hinge margin rather broad. + +This shell is very like Cytherea loeta, but differs from it in its +markings, as well as its outline, which is more orbicular. The specimen +given to the Museum by Captain King, is one inch long, and eight-tenths +of an inch high; but there is another specimen in the collection, from +the Tankerville cabinet (Number 288) which is twice that size. + +11. Cytherea gibba. +Cytherea gibbia, Lam. Hist. 5 577. +Icon. Chemn. 7 t. 39. f. 415. 416. + +12. Petricola rubra ? Cardium rubrum ? Montague. + +This shell agrees in general form, teeth, and colour, with the Cardium +rubrum of Montagu, but it is larger. It was found imbedded in the seaweed +and spongy-like substance that covers the Tridacna squamosa. + +13. Chama limbula, Lam. Hist. 6 95. + +This shell may, perhaps, be a variety of Chama gryphoides. + +14. Tridacna gigas, Lam. Hist. 6 pt. 1. 105. +Chama Gigas, Gmel. Syst. Nat. 1 3299. +Icon. Chemn. 7 t. 49. f. 495. Ency. Meth. plate 235. f. 1. + +15. Pectunculus radians ? Lam. Hist. 6 54. + +16. Arca scapha, Lam. Hist. 6 42. +Icon. Chemn. 7 201. t. 55. f. 548. Ency. Meth. plate 306. f. 1. a, b. + +17. Mytilus erosus, Lam. Hist. 6 pt. 1 120. + +This shell was described by Lamarck from some New Holland specimens, that +were probably collected by Peron in Baudin's voyage. It is remarkable for +being very thick and solid, and of a fine dark colour, with only a narrow +white band on the anterior basal edge. The edge is crenated, and the +muscular impressions are very distinct, and raised above the surface, +particularly that on the anterior valve, which is both pellucid and +tubercular. + +18. Modiola (Tulipa ?) australis, Nob. +Modiola tulipa, var. 1. Lam. Hist. 6 pt. 1 111. + +This Australian species will most probably prove to be distinct from the +American kind; but the specimen before me does not afford sufficient +materials to separate it, since there is only one water-worn valve in the +collection. It is not so distinctly rayed as M. tulipa, and the inside is +entirely of a brilliant pearly purple, except near the anterior basal +edge. + +19. Lithophagus caudatus, nob. +Modiola caudigera, Lam. Hist. 6 pt. 1 116. +Icon. Ency. Meth. plate 221. f. 8. a, b. + +20. Meleagrina albida, var. a. Lam. Hist. 6 pt. 1 152. + +This appears to be a distinct species from those found in the Gulf of +Mexico and the West Indies, but the difference is not easy to describe. +The specimens before me, which are small, differ materially from some of +the same size among the American species. The outside is of a dull +greenish-purple colour, with a few distant membranaceous laminae which +are only slightly lobed, and not extended into long processes like those +of Avicula radiata (Zool. Misc. 1. t. 43.) which is the young of the +American kind. The internal pearly coat has a bright yellow tinge. + +21. Spondylus radians ? Lam. Hist. 6 pt. 1 192. +Icon. Chemn. Conch. 7 t. 45. f. 469. 470. Ency. Meth. plate 191. f. 5. + +22. Pecten maximus ? Lam. Hist. 6 pt. 1 163. +Ostrea maxima, Gmel. Syst. Nat. 1 3315. +Icon. Chemn. Conch. 7 t. 60. f. 585. Ency. Meth. plate 209. f. 1. a, b. + +The shell before me is probably distinct from the above species, but is +too much worn down to be separated from it; in its present state it seems +to agree tolerably well with the species to which it has been referred. + +23. Pecten asperrimus, Lam. Hist. 6 pt. 1 174. + +This beautiful species was originally found by MM. Peron and Lesueur on +the coast of Van Diemen's Land. + +24. Lima minuta (n.s.) + +Testa ovato-oblonga valde tumida clausa radiatim costata, costis +transverse costato-striatis, auriculis minutis, margine crenato. + +This shell, which was brought up by the deep sea sounding-lead, being +only one-sixth of an inch long, and one-fourth high, is the smallest +species of the genus. It is white, ovate, oblong, turned and closed at +the ends; the surface is deeply radiately ribbed; the ribs are +concentrically rib-striated, which gives their sides a denticulated +appearance; the edge is crenulated, and the umbones are acute, a small +distance apart, and nearly in the centre of the hinge margin, which is +straight. + +25. Pinna dolabrata, Lam. Hist. 6 pt. 1 133. +Pinna bicolor, Chemn. Conch. Cab. t. 90. f. 234. +Icon. Chemn. 8 t. 90. f. 780 ? + +The shell, figured by Chemnitz, appears to be a variety of this species +with the anterior end uncurved, which has most probably been caused by +some injury on the anterior basal edge. + +The species is peculiar for its yellow pearly internal coat, and purplish +rays. + + +2. COCHLEOPHORA. + +26. Trochus caerulescens. Lam. Hist. 7 18. +Icon. Ency. Meth. plate 444. f. 2. a, b. +Inhab. South-west Coast. + +Lamarck describes this shell from a specimen found by Peron. + +27. Trochus noduliferus, Lam. Hist. 7 18. + +28. Monodonta conica (n.s.) + +Testa conica, acuta, imperforata, spiraliter striflto-costata, rufa; +costis subtuberculatis, albo-nigro-articulatis; apertura sulcata. +Inhab. -- Mus. Brit. + +Shell conical, axis longer than the diameter, the whorl flattened with +six spiral raised substriae, which are transversely divided into blackish +purple beads with white interspaces, the apex rather acute; the base, +rather convex, axis imperforated; the aperture subquadrangular, inside +furrowed; the base of the columella lip with a prominent tooth and +distinct groove behind it, the upper part rugose; axis eight-twelfths, +diameter six-twelfths of an inch. This shell does not appear to be +uncommon on the coast of Australia. + +29. Monodonta uranulata (n.s.) + +Testa depresso-conica, umbilicata, purpurea, albomarmorata, spiraliter +papillata; papillis quadri-seriatis, umbilico laevi; infima facie +papillata, apertura sulcata. + +Inhab. Mus. Brit. + +Shell rather depressed, conical, purple variegated with white, generally +concentrically wrinkled, and ornamented with granulated spiral ribs, the +ribs of the upper part of the last, and of all the other whorls rather +distant, and forming four series; those of the under part rather closer, +and smaller. The axis unbilicated, smooth, the aperture roundish, the +outer lips furrowed, the columella lip smooth with a groove at its base, +axis four-twelfths, diameter five-twelfths of an inch. + +30. Monodonta denticulata (n.s.) +Testa depresso-conica, umbilicata, rufa, nigro punctata, spiraliter +sulcata, subgranulata, umbilico extus crenato. + +Inhab. -- Mus. Brit. + +Shell depressed, conical, pale reddish, ornamented with rows of white and +brown spots, spirally grooved, ribs slightly granulated; the sutures +distinct, impressed, the lower part of the last whorl nearly smooth, the +umbilicus white, smooth inside, the edge furnished with a series of +granules. The mouth subquadrangular, outer lip crenulated at the edge, +the columella lip smooth, with a large tooth at the inside, and a little +roughness on the outer side; axis three-tenths, diameter five-twelfths of +an inch. + +31. Monodonta constricta, Lam. Hist. 7 36. + +32. Monodonta rudis (n.s.) + +Testa ovato-conica imperforata ulbido-purpurea rudis crassa, labro +duplicato, extus albido viridi, intus subsulcato, albo. + +Inhab. -- Mus. Brit. + +Shell ovate, conical, imperfurated, rough, pearly, concentrically +striated, whitish-brown; when worn or where eroded, purple; the whorls +convex, suture distinct, sometimes occupying an impressed line on the +lower whorl; the base rather convex, the aperture roundish, the axis +(imperforate) covered with a white callus, which leaves a slight +concavity over its end; the outer lip of three colours, the outer part +purple or green and white, the middle pearly, and the inner opaque, +white, and furrowed; the surface of the lower part of the last whorl is +frequently worn away just opposite the mouth, so as to leave a purple +spot. + +33. Rissoa clathrata (n.s.) + +Testa subglobosa, subimperforata, alba, solida, spiraliter et concentrice +costata; apertura suborbiculari, sutura impressa. + +Shell nearly globular, spire conical, upper whorls with three, lower with +seven distinct, large, rather separate, much raised, spiral ribs, and +numerous acute transverse ribs, which form an acute tubercle where it +crosses the spiral ridges, the suture deeply impressed, very distinct, +the aperture nearly orbicular, the outer lip denticulated on its outer +edge, inner lip smooth, column without any perforation, only a slight +linear cavity behind the inner lip, axis and diameter each one-sixth of +an inch. + +This shell is allied to Littorina muricata (Turbo muricata, Lin.) in its +general form and the shape of its umbilicus, but is white and ribbed like +Rissoa cimex (Turbo cimex, Lin.) R. calathriscus, the Turbo calathriscus +of Montague. + +34. Solarium biangulatum (n.s.) + +Testa orbiculato-conica subdepressa albida spiraliter sub-striata rufo +variegata, anfractibus biangulatis supra planis infra convexis, umbilico +pervio edentulo. + +Shell orbicular conical; spire rather depressed; whorls five spirally +striated; upper part flattened, expanded, white with numerous diverging +red cross lines; centre flat, nearly at right angles with the upper edge, +white, with a convex thread-like rib round its base, which is distantly +articulated; base of the whorls convex, red, punctured and variegated +with white; axis conical, concave, white, smooth at the commencement; +aperture subquadrangular; inside pearly, inner lip with an obscure tooth +at the end of the umbilicus; axis one-fourth, diameter one-third, of an +inch. + +35. Turbo setosus, Gmel. Sys. Nat. 3594. Lam. Hist. 7 42. +Icon. Chemn. 5 t. 181. f. 1795, 1796. + +36. Turbo torquatus, Gmel. 3597. Lam. Hist. 7 40. +Icon. Chemn. 10 293. figure 24. f. A. B. + +37. Phasianella varia, Lam. Ency. Meth. plate 449. f. 1. a. b. c. +Phasianella bulimoides, Lam. Hist. 7 52. +Buccinum Australe, Gmel. Syst. Nat. 1 3490. +Icon. Chemn. 9 t. 120. f. 1033, 1034. + +38. Phasianella pulchra (n.s.) + +Testa minuta oblique conica tenuis pellucida linea albida opaca et +fasciis coccineis ornata, anfractibus valde convexis. + +Shell minute, obliquely conical, thin, pellucid, variegated with spiral +opaque white intercepted striae and several transverse scarlet bands +formed of oblique lines; axis, imperforated, one-sixth, diameter +one-eighth, of an inch. + +This shell is somewhat like P. pullus, Turbo pullus of Montague, but the +whorls are more convex, and it is rather differently marked. + +39. Scalaria australis, Lam. Hist. 6 pt. 2. 228. +Icon. -- + +40. Scalaria tenuis (n.s.) + +Testa conica umbillcata tenuis pellucida albida unifasciata, costis albis +tenuibus ereberrimis parum elevatis laevibus, anfractibus contiguis. + +Shell conical, thin, pellucid, whitish-brown, with a narrow central +spiral brown band; whorls contiguous, convex, smooth, with numerous close +oblique slightly raised, thin, simple-edged cross ribs; axis umbilicated; +umbilicus narrow; mouth small, ovate, orbicular; axis three-eighths, +diameter one-fourth of an inch. + +This shell is most like Scalaria principalis, nob. Turbo principalis of +Pallas, Chemn. 11 t. 195, f. 1876, 1877. The shell before me is most +probably a young specimen. + +41. Delphinula laciniata, Lam. Hist. 6 pt. 2. 230. +Turbo Delphinus, Gmel. Syst. Nat. 1 3599. +Icon. Lister. Conch. t. 608. f. 45. + +This shell was found at low water upon the Coral Reefs, in the entrance +of Prince Regent's River, on the North-west Coast. + +42. Nerita atrata, Lam. Hist. 6 pt. 2. 191. +Icon. Chemn. Conch. 5 t. 190. f. 1954, 1955. + +43. Nerita textilis, Gmelin. Syst. Nat. 3683. +Icon. Chemn. 5 190, f. 1944, 1945. + +44. Natica mamilla, Lam. Hist. 6 pt. 2. 197. +Nerita mamilla, Gmel. Syst. Nat. 3672. +Icon. Lister Conch. t. 571. f. 22. Enc. Meth. plate 453. f. 5. a. b. + +45. Natica alba, n. +Icon. Chemn. 5 t. 189. f. 1922. 1923. + +46. Natica conica, Lam. Hist. 6 pt. 2. 198. +Icon. Chemn. 5 t. 189. f. 1930. 1931. + +47. Littorina australis (n.s.) + +Testa ovata, conica fulva rudis spiraliter striata sulcata, spira acuta, +fauce livida. + +Shell ovate, conical, fulvous-brown, rough, with numerous impressed +spiral lines; the spire acute, the whorls rather convex, last slightly +angular, the columella lip purplish-brown; axis solid, with a lunate +concavity behind the usual situation of the umbilicus. + +48. Littorina unifasciata (n.s.) + +Testa ovato-conica imperforata purpureo-albida laevigata, anfractibus +convexis ultimo subangulato, apertura purpurea unifasciata. +Icon. -- + +Shell ovate conical, nearly smooth, with only a few concentric ridges, +and distant, scarcely impressed, very narrow, grooves; white or +purplish-white outside; the whorls rather convex, last one slightly +angular in front; mouth ovate; throat purple or purplish-black with a +distinct broad white spiral band just below the slight external keel; +inner lip purple with a deep concavity behind it; spire acute half the +length of the shell; axis 8/12, diameter 6/12, of an inch. + +This shell has somewhat the shape of Littorina zigzag, the Trochus zigzag +of Montague, but is all of one colour externally and has a much shorter +spire. + +49. Cerithium palustre, Brug. Dict. n. 19. Lam. Hist. 7 66. +Strombus palustris, Gmel. Syst. Nat. 3521. Number 38. +Icon. Lister. Conch. t. 836. f. 62. t. 837. f. 63. Seba, 3 t. 50. f. 13. +14. 17-19. Martini Conch. 4 t. 156. f. 1472. + +50. Cerithium ebeninum, Brug. Dict. n. 26. Lam. Hist. 7 67. +Icon. Chem. Conch. 10 t. 162. f. 1548, 1549. Ency. Meth. t. 442. f. 1. a, +b. + +51. Cerithium morus, Lam. Hist. 7 75. not Brug. +Icon. Lister. t. 1024. f. 90 ? + +52. Cerithium lima ? Lam. Hist. 7 77. Brug. Number 33. + +A broken shell apparently of this species was brought home, but when a +more perfect specimen is round, it may prove to be distinct from it. + +53. Cerithium perversum ? Lam. Hist. 7 77. + +54. Nassa fasciata, n. +Buccinum fasciatum, Lam. Hist. 7 271. + +55. Nassa suturalis, n. +Buccinum suturale, Lam. Hist. 7 269 ? + +56. Nassa mutabilis, n. +Buccinum mutabile, Gmel. Syst. Nat. 3481. Lam. Hist. 7 269. +Icon. List. t. 975. f. 30. Born. t. 9. f. 13. Chemn. Conch. 11 t. 188. f. +1810, 1811. + +57. Nassa livida (n.s.) +Testa ovato-conica superne transverse plicata basi spiraliter striata +purpureo-livida obscure castaneo bifasciata, anfractibus convexiusculis, +sutura linea alba notata, labro extus marginato intus sulcato. + +Icon. -- + +Shell ovate conical, livid purplish-white, with one or two central, +obscure brown, bands; upper whorls bluntly transversely plaited, the rest +smooth, livid, except at the front part of the last, just over the +groove, where it is spirally striated; the suture distinct (not +channelled) marked by a white line; the inner lip distinct, raised, the +outer thickened on the outer side, edge sharp, inside grooved; the throat +fulvous-brown; axis one inch, diameter half an inch. + +This shell belongs to the group of Nassa, but will perhaps form a +distinct genus intermediate between it and Columbella, characterized by +the narrow form of the mouth. It is most nearly allied to N. olivacea, n. +(Bucc. olivaceum, Lam.) and N. canaliculata, n. (Bucc. canaliculatum, +Lam.) + +58. Clavatula striata (n.s.) + +Testa ovato-lanceolata turrita albida regulariter spiraliter +sulcato-striata transverse et interrupte costata, anfractuum margine +superiore angulato subnodoso, cauda brevi, fauce sulcata. + +Icon. -- + +Shell ovate turreted, whitish-brown, with eleven or twelve longitudinal +interrupted ribs forming long tubercles on the centre of the whorls; the +whorls with distant impressed spiral lines near the suture, with a rather +flattened slightly nodulose band; the mouth rather more than one-third +the length of the shell; outer lip thin inside, grooved; tail short, with +a linear depression on its columella side; axis ten-twelfths, diameter +four-twelfths of an inch. + +59. Cassis achatina, var. Lam. Hist. 7 226. + +A worn specimen, apparently a variety of this species. It is entirely +smooth, polished, and has the last whorl near the spire slightly concave, +edged with a scarcely raised rather nodulous line, the outer lip is very +thick, grooved on its inner edge, and the columella is distinctly +plaited. + +It may perhaps prove to be a new kind; but the species of this genus are +so exceedingly apt to vary, that I do not wish to increase the number of +the already too much extended lists of Lamarck and others. + +60. Cassis flammea. Lam. Hist. 7 220. +Cassidea flammea, Brug. Dict. n. 13. +Buccinum flammeum, Lin. Sys. Nat. 1199. Gmel. 3473. +Icon. Lister. t. 1004. f. 69. et t. 1005. f. 72. Martini Conch. 2 t. 34. +f. 353. 354. + +61. Dolium variegatum, Lam. Hist. 7 261. +Icon. -- + +62. Purpura haemastoma, Lam. Hist. 7 238. +Buccinum haemastoma, Lin. Syst. Nat. 1202. Gmel. 3483. +Icon. Lister. t. 988. f. 48. Martini Conch. 3 t. 101. f. 964, 965. + +63. Murex adustus ? Lam. Hist. 7 162. +Icon. Seba. Mus. ili. t. 77. f. 9. 10. Martini Conch. 3 t. 105. f. 990, +991. + +This shell agrees very well with the description of Lamarck, except that +the whole edge of the mouth is of a fine rose-red colour. + +64. Tritonium tranquebaricum, n. +Triton tranquebaricum, Lam. Hist. 7 189. +Icon. Ency. Meth. t. 422. f. 6. + +65. Tritonium australe, n. +Triton australe, Lam. Hist. 7 179. +Murex tritonium australe, Chemn. Conch. 11. +Icon. Chemn. 11 t. 194. f. 1867, 1868. + +66. Ranella leucostoma, Lam. Hist. 7 150. +Icon. -- + +This shell is very like Triton scobinator, Lam.; and the varices, like +it, neither form a complete series, nor are they alternate, so that it +does not agree exactly with the characters of either genus. + +67. Fusus verrucosus, n. +Murex verrucosus, Gmel. Syst. Nat. 3557. +Icon. Martini. 4 t. 146. f. 1349, 1356. + +68. Conus achatinus, Brug. Dict. n. 66. Lam. Hist. 7 480. +Icon. Chemn. 10 t. 142. f. 1317. Ency. Method. t. 380. f. 6. + +69. Conus puncturatus. Brug. Dict. n. 35. Lam. Hist. 1 460. +Icon. Ency. Meth. t. 322. f. 9. + +70. Conus maurus (n.s.) +Testa turbinata coronata albida zonis duabus fuscis, spira subdepressa +mucronata, faute albida zonis duabus purpureis notata. +Icon. -- + +Shell very plain, top-shaped, crowned, and whitish, with two brown bands; +spire rather depressed; crowned, blunt; the epidermis pale +greenish-brown; the inside white, with two broad blue bands, in the front +of which is enclosed the canal; axis one and a half, diameter one inch. + +71. Cypraea arabica, Gmel. Syst. Nat. 1 3398. Lam. Hist. 7 378. Gray, +Zool. Journal 1 76. +Icon. Lister. Conch. t. 658. f. 3. Martini. 1 t. 31. f. 328. Ency. Meth. +t. 352 f. 1, 2. + +72. Cypraea tigris, Gmel. Syst. Nat. 1 3408. Lam. Hist. 7 382. Gray, +Zool. Journal 1 367. +Icon. Lister. Conch. t. 682. f. 29. Martini 1 t. 24. f. 232-234. Ency. +Meth. t. 353. f. 3. + +The shells of this species that are found on the North-east Coast of +Australia are generally of a very pale colour, with only scattered +markings. + +73. Cypraea mauritiana, Gmel. Syst. Nat. 3407. Lam. Hist. 7 377. Gray, +Zool. Jour. 1 79. +Icon. Lister. Conch. t. 703. f. 52. Martini 1 t. 30. f. 317-319. Ency. +Meth. t. 350. f. 2. a. b. + +74. Cypraea lynx, Gmel. Syst. Nat. 3409. Lam. Hist. 7 388. Oray, Zool. +Journal 1 151. +Cypraea venelli, Gmel. 3402. +Cypraea squalina, Gmel. 3420. +Icon. Lister. Conch. t. 683. f. 30. Martini 1 t. 23. f. 230, 231. Ency. +Meth. t. 355. f. 8. a. b. + +75. Cypraea annulus, Gmel. Syst. Nat. 3415. Lam. Hist. 7 402. Gray, Zool. +Journal 1 494. +Icon. Martini Conch. 1 t. 24. f. 239. 240. Ency. Meth. t. 356. f. 7. + +76. Cypraea obvelata, Lam. Hist. 7 401. Gray, l.c. 1 493. +Icon. -- + +77. Cypraea moneta, Gmel. Syst. Nat. 3414. Lam. Hist. 7 401. Gray, Zool. +Journal 1 492. +Icon. Lister. Conch. t. 709. f. 59. Martini 1 t. 31. f. 337. 338. Ency. +Meth. t. 356. f. 3. + +78. Cypraea errones. Lin. Syst. Nat. 1178. Gray, l.c. 1 385. +Cypraea erronea, Gmel. Syst. Nat. 3411. +Cyprrea olivacea, b. Lam. Hist. 7 392. +Icon. Pet. Gaz. t. 97. f. 21. + +79. Cypraea caput serpentis. Lin. Syst. Nat. 1175. Gmel. 3406. Lam. Hist. +7 385. Gray, Zool. Journal 1 495. +Icon. Lister. t. 702. f. 50. et t. 704. f. 52. Martini 1 t. 33. f. 316. +Ency. Meth. 354. f. 4. + +80. Cypraea zigzag, Gmel. Syst. Nat. t. 3410. Lam. Hist. 7 394. Gray, +Zool. Journal 1 373. Cypraea undata, Lam. Ann. Mus. n. 41. +Icon. Lister. Conch. t. 661. f. 5. Martini 1 t. 23. f. 224, 225. Ency. +Meth. t. 356. f. 8. a. b. + +81. Cypraea helvola, Lin. Syst. Nat. 1130. Gmel. 3417. Lam. Hist. 7 398. +Icon. Lister. Conch. t. 691. f. 38. Martini Conch. 1 t. 30. f. 326, 327. +Ency. Meth. 356. f. 13. + +82. Cypraea nucleus, Lin. Syst. Nat. 1 1181. Gmel. 3418. Lam. Hist. 7 +400. Gray, Zool. Journal 1 515. +Icon. Born. t. 8. f. 17. Ency. Meth. t. 355. f. 3. + +83. Cypraea oniscus, Lam. Hist. 7 402. +Icon. Lister. Conch. t. 706. f. 55. Martini 1 t. 29. f. 306, 307. + +84. Cypraea australis, Lam. Hist. 7 404. +Icon. -- + +85. Mitra tabanula ? Lam. Hist. 7 323. n. 79. + +A single bleached specimen, agreeing with this description excepting in +having five instead of three or four plaits on the columella, was brought +up by the sounding line. The shell is longitudinally grooved, and very +remarkable for being furnished with numerous, rather distant, smooth, +narrow, raised spiral bands; having the inter-spaces finely spirally +striated; the nucleus of the shell, like that of a voluta, is mammillary. + +86. Mitra scutulata, Lam. Hist. 7 314. +Voluta scutulata sue discolor, Chemn. Conch. 10 Gmel. 3452. +Icon. Chemn. l.c. t. 151. f. 1428, 1429. + +Lamarck never having seen this shell has described it on the authority of +Chemnitz, whose figure agrees very well with the shell before me; +excepting that the spots round the suture form nearly a continual band at +a little distance from it; the outer lip is smooth and thin; the inside +dull livid brown; the axis is fourteen-twelfths, the diameter +seven-twelfths, of an inch. + +87. Marginella minuta (n.s.) +Testa minuta ovata fusiformis alba polita, spira conoidea obtusiuscula, +labro inflexo, columella quadriplicata. +Icon. -- + +Shell ovate, fusiform, white, polished; spire conical, nearly as long as +the aperture, rather blunt; outer lip somewhat inflexed; columella with +four distinct plaits; axis three-twelfths, diameter two-twelfths of an +inch. + +88. Strombus plicatus, Lam. Hist. 7 210. +Strombus dentatus, Gmel. Syst. Nat. 3519. +Icon. Rumph. Mus. t. 37. f. T. Pet. Amb. t. 14. f. 21. Schroet. Einl. in +Conch. 1 t. 2. f. 12. Ency. Meth. t. 408. f. 2. a. b. + +89. Strombus urceus, Lin. Gmel. 3518. +Icon. Lister. Conch. t. 857. f. 13. Martini. Conch. 3 t. 78. f. 803-806. + +90. Strombus australis (n.s.) + +Testa ovato-oblonga tuberculata spiraliter sulcata albida +fusco-variegata, spira exserta, cauda recurva, labro incrassato posterius +lobo digiti-formi termitato intus (roseo ?) sulcato. +Icon. -- ? + +Shell ovate oblong, spiral, white, spotted and lined with pale, +fulvous-brown; the spire exserted, conical, half as long as the shell; +the whorls longitudinally ribbed with one more prominent than the rest, +the one nearest the suture being acute and tuberculated; the canal +recurved; the outer lip thickened, ending in a projecting lobe behind, +and edged with two or three blunt tubercles; the throat rose-coloured, +furrowed; the inner lip much thickened. + +This shell is one of the five species which have been confounded with +Strombus auris dianae; it is most like S. zelandiae, n. Chemn. 10 t. 156. +f. 1485, 1486, in form and throat, but has the sculpture of S. adusta, n. +Chemn. 10 t. 156. f. 1487, 1488; this last Lamarck considers as the true +S. auris dianae, whilst Linnaeus unquestionably describes the shell +figured by Martini, 7 t. 84. f. 840, and by Seba, 3 t, 61. f. 1, 2, which +I have named S. lamarckii, from having considered it to be the young of a +new species; it is figured by Martini, 7 t. 84. f. 338, 339, and by Seba, +3 t. 61. f. 5, 6, and is very nearly allied to S. bituberculatus of +Lamarck. + +91. Pterocera lambis, Lam. Hist. 7 196. +Strombus lambis, Gmel. Syst. Nat. 3508. +Icon. Lister. Conch. t. 866. f. 21. Martini, Conch. 3 t. 87. f. 858, 859. + +This shell is very distinct from Strombus camelus of Chemn. 10 t. 155. f. +1478. + +92. Bulla australis, Gray, Ann. of Philosophy, 9 n.s. 408. +Icon. -- + +This species is very distinct from Bulla striata, Lister. Conch. t. 714. +f. 72. with which it has been generally confounded; it is of larger size +and perfectly smooth. + +93. Bulla hyalina (n.s.) + +Testa ovata cylindrica imperforata tenuis hyalina albida laevis +concentrice subrugosa; apice incrassato. +Icon. -- + +The shell ovate, cylindrical, thin; hyaline white, smooth, very slightly +concentrically rugose; the vertex thickened, not perforated; the aperture +rather longer than the shell; the inner lip slightly reflexed; axis +five-twelfths, diameter three-twelfths of an inch. + +94. Cryptostoma haliotoideum (n.) +Sigaretus haliotoideus, Lam. Hist. 6 2. 208. +Icon. Martini. Conch. 1 t. 16. f. 151-154. + +95. Hipponix listeri (n.) +Icon. Lister. t. 544. f. 29. + +This shell is very nearly allied to Pileopis, but the animal is evidently +not brachiopodous. It does not form (or at least not always) a shelly +support, but corrodes the surface of the shell to which it is attached, +so as to form a more flat attachment, and to leave a lunate convex rib +instead of the lunate muscular impression which is observed on those +specimens or individuals which have a shelly base. + +96. Siphonaria radiata, Var. Gray, Phil. Mag. 1824. 275. +Siphonaria exigua, Sow. Gen. +Patella japonica, Donovan. +Icon. Donovan, Nat. Repos. t. 79. + +97. Bulimus kingii, Gray, Ann. Phil., 9 n.s. 414. +Icon. + +The shell ovate, white, with numerous dark-brown irregular concentric +lines, smooth except near the suture where it is slightly wrinkled; +whorls six, rather convex; aperture ovate, about half as long as the +shell; peristome thin (perhaps not formed); perforation covered with a +white even lip, surrounded by a dark edge; the throat chocolate-brown. + +This shell is abundant on the hills of King George the Third's Sound, in +the vicinity of Bald Head. + +98. Cyclostoma australe (n.s.) + +Testa orbiculata subtrochiformis profunde umbilicata albida fasciis binis +fuscis cincta, spira brevi acuta, anfractibus 5 convexis concentrice +sulcatis. +Icon. -- + +Shell orbicular, nearly trochi-form, white with two pale-brown bands on +each whorl; the one near the suture narrow, and the other, placed on the +middle of the whorl, broad; whorls five; convex rounded, with numerous +close concentric furrows; axis umbilicated; umbilicus rather narrow, +deep; aperture rather more than one half the length of the shell; +peristome (not formed ?) simple. + +99. Chiton rugosus (n.s.) + +Testa octovalvis glabra, valvis tuberculatis, ligamento glabro laevi. +Icon. -- + +Shell with eight valves, bald; valves covered with numerous small +tubercles both on the central and lateral area; marginal ligament smooth, +bald. + +100. Patella tramoserica, Chemn. 11 179. +Icon. Chemn. 11 t. 197. f. 1912, 1913. + +101. Patella radiata, Chemn. 11 100. +Icon. Chemn. 11 t. 197. f. 1916, 1917. + +When young, the form of this shell is more conical than in the figure +above quoted, and the outer surface is finely radiately striated. + +102. Patella neglecta (n.) +Patella melanogramma, Sowerby, not Gmel. +Icon. Sow. Gen. f. + +When this shell is young, or when the older specimens have lived in deep +water, where their surface has not been broken by the shingle, or +corroded, or covered with coralloid incrustations, they are regularly +radiately ribbed; the ribs are covered with narrow intermediate grooves, +marked with a black spot on the internal edge of the shell, which is +permanent through all the variations of the outer surface. The inside is +pale purplish-brown, with a yellowish-white muscular impression. In the +older specimens the central disk is often of a pure opaque-white, and the +muscular impressions round the inner edge of the shell are both pellucid +brownish-white; length four inches, breadth three, height two inches. + +This shell is abundant on the rocky shores of King George the Third's +Sound. + +In the collection there is a worn specimen of another species of this +genus; but from its bad state, and from the very great confusion in which +the various species of Patella are involved, I do not venture to describe +it as a new shell, although there has not been any hitherto described to +which, in its present state, it can with any certainty be referred. It is +conical, convex, with twenty-four or twenty-five distinct convex ribs +alternately increasing in size; the grooves between the ribs are broad, +with irregular, concentric, black-brown, raised lines, which appear to be +caused by the wearing away of the other part of the dark outer coat; the +inside is white with a brown disk, and the edge sinuated and furnished +with grooves under the larger ribs. + +103. Haliotis roei (n.s.) + +Testa subrotunda convexiuscula rugosa et plicata spiraliter sulcata intus +argenteo et rubro margaritacea, spira prominula. +Icon. -- + +Shell roundish, rather convex; the outside reddish or brownish, regular; +closely but unequally spiral, ribbed, and irregularly and roughly +concentrically striated and plaited; the row of perforations is rather +prominent, and pierced with six or seven moderate-sized, slightly +tubular, holes; the inside is iridescent, pearly, rather wavy, and +exhibits two distinct whorls; the columella lip is short and flattened, +outer lip rounded; the spire is convex, rather prominent, placed about +one-third of the breadth of the shell from the outer lip, and consists of +three whorls, which very rapidly enlarge. + +This distinct shell, at the desire of Captain King, has been named after +Lieutenant J.S. Roe, the assistant-surveyor of the expedition. + +It is most nearly allied to H. australis, Chemn. 10 t. 166. f. 1604, but +differs from it in being rounder and more distinctly ribbed. + +104. Haliotis cunninghamii (n.s.) + +Testa ovato-rotundata tenuis depressa rugoso-subplicata spiraliter +striata intus argenteo et rubro margaritacea, spira prominula, +foraminibus parvis. +Icon. -- + +Shell roundish-ovate, thin, depressed; the outer surface very slightly +concentrically plaited and rough, and finely, regularly, spirally, +striated; the row of perforations slightly elevated, pierced with eight +or nine small slightly-tubular holes; the spire rather prominent, apex +placed about one-fourth of the breadth of the shell from the sutural +angle on the outer lip, consisting of four whorls which rapidly enlarge; +the inside expanded out, disk nearly flat exhibiting one distinct whorl; +the columella lip narrow, rather long, flattened; the outer lip thin, +truncated; the nick of the imperfect perforation placed about one-third +the length of the outer lip from the end of the columella lip: length six +inches, breadth five. + +This shell, at the wish of Captain King, has been named after Mr. Allan +Cunningham, the botanical collector of the voyage. + +This species, although nearly allied to Haliotis midae, is quite distinct +from it. + +105. Haliotis squamosa (n.s.) + +Testa ovato-oblonga convexa rugoso-plicata aurantio-rubens spiraliter +costata, costis tuberculato-muncatis, fauce margaritacea, spira retusa. +Icon. + +Shell ovate-oblong, convex, externally transversely rugose, plaited and +spirally ribbed; the ribs concentrically striated and furnished with +numerous raised scale-like tubercles; the row of perforations scarcely +round contains ten or twelve rather large holes; the spire slightly +raised, very near the edge, consisting of two or three very +rapidly-enlarging whorls; the inside concave, showing the external ribs, +reddish pearly; the columella lip narrow, depressed, bent; the outer lip +thin, strait, or cut out; the imperfect perforation about one-fifth the +length of the outer lip from the end of the columella lip; length two, +breadth one inch and a quarter. + +This species is very distinct on account of its long form, and curved +lower face, as well as its outer surface. + +106. Haliotis marmorata, Lin. Sys. Nat. 1256. +Icon. Martini. 1 t. 14. f. 139. + +107. Padollus rubicundus, De Montfort, Syst. 2 115. +Padollus scalaris, Leach, Zool. Misc. 1 66. +Haliotis tricostalis, Lam. Hist. 6 2. 218. +Icon. De Montf. 2 t. 114. Leach, l.c. + +This specimen, which is the largest I ever saw, measures three inches and +a half by two and a half. It was found upon Rottnest Island, on the West +Coast. + +PTEROPODA. + +108. Janthina fragilis, Lam. Syst. Anim. +Janthina communis, Lam. Hist. 6 2. 206. +Helix janthina, Lin. Sys. Nat. 1 1246. +Icon. Lister. t. 572. f. 24. Chemn, 5 t. 166. f. 1577, 1578. + +Several specimens of this shell were taken by the towing-net in the +Indian Ocean, on the passage from the Coast of New Holland to Mauritius. + +109. Janthina exigua, Lam. Hist. 6 2. 206. + +Two or three species of this shell were presented to the Museum by Mr. +Hunter, the surgeon to the expedition; it is proved to be very distinct +from J. fragilis, from the description of its float by Dr. Coates in the +transactions of the Society of Natural Science of Philadelphia. See +Annals of Philosophy for 1825, page 385. + +110. Hyalaea tridentata, Lam. Hist. 6 1. 286. +Monooulus telemus ? Lin. Syst. Nat. 1 1059. +Anomia tridentata, Forsk. Faun. Arab. 124. +Icon. Forsk. Faun. t. 40. f. b. Chemn. 8 Vign. 13. Cuv. Ann. Mus. 4 t. +59. Anatomy. + +CEPHALOPODA. + +111. Spirula fragilis, Lam. Syst. Anim. 102. +Spirula australis, Lam. Ency. Method. 465. f. 5. a. b. +Spirula peronii, Lam. Hist. 7 601. +Nautilus spirula, Lin. Syst. Nat. 1163. +Nautilus spicula, Gmel. 3371. +Icon. Lister Conch. t. 550. f.2. Martini. 1 Veg. 254. t. 20. f. 184, 185. +Ency. Method. ut supra Animal. + +Captain King brought home several minute species of Nautilus, which will +be taken notice of at a future period, as they require particular +examination and minute comparison with those found upon the coasts of +Italy and other parts of Europe. + +Note. Specimens of the shells in the above catalogue, to which the +following numbers refer, have been presented to the British Museum, +namely, 2, 5, 7, 8, 12, 13, 17, 20, 25, 28, 29, 31, 46, 48, 90, 91, 92, +94, 95, 96, 97, 98, 99, 102 and 103. + +... + + +A FEW GENERAL REMARKS ON THE VEGETATION OF CERTAIN COASTS OF TERRA +AUSTRALIS, AND MORE ESPECIALLY OF ITS NORTH-WESTERN SHORES. + +BY MR. ALLAN CUNNINGHAM, COLLECTOR TO THE ROYAL GARDENS AT KEW. + +It having been resolved by the British Government to employ a colonial +vessel from the settlement of Port Jackson in New South Wales, for the +purpose of exploring the whole of the North-western Coasts of New +Holland, and that portion of the North Coast, not seen by that able +navigator, the late Captain Flinders; a most favourable opportunity was +thereby afforded for a partial examination of the plants of those unknown +shores, with a view of adding to our progressively augmenting knowledge +of the very interesting Flora of this southern continent. + +Having materially profited by a twelvemonth's previous residence in New +South Wales, acquainting myself with the characters (and principal +peculiarities of structure) of many genera of plants absolutely proper to +Terra Australis; and particularly in that period, throughout the progress +of a long and very interesting journey in the interior, to the westward +of Port Jackson, I was most happy and desirous to obey an instruction I +received from the Right Honourable Sir Joseph Banks, on behalf of the +Government, directing me to place myself under the orders of Captain P.P. +King, to whom the execution of this important service had been intrusted, +and to accompany him to those particular coasts, destined for his +investigation, in order to form and prepare such collections of their +vegetation, for the use of His Majesty's gardens at Kew, as +circumstances, and the particular season of the year proper for visiting +those shores, might afford me. My very limited knowledge of the plants of +that continent, especially of genera, that form a striking feature in its +Flora, was moreover essentially improved during our stay at King George's +Sound on the South-west Coast, previous to our arrival upon the +North-west Coast, at the commencement of the first voyage of His +Majesty's cutter the Mermaid. + +Although the reader may inform himself, from Captain King's relation of +the several voyages, of the opportunities that were afforded me in +forming my collections of plants, still it appears necessary, in this +place, to take a general retrospective view of those parts of the coasts +under examination, whereon my researches were made, adverting, at the +same time, to the prevalent unfavourable seasons for flowering plants, +during which it should seem the survey of the North-west Coast could +alone be effected with safety. + +During the progress of the survey of the southern extreme of the +North-west Coast (at which part Captain King commenced his examinations, +in 1818) I landed in Exmouth Gulf, then upon one of the islands of +Dampier's Archipelago, at the Intercourse Islands, and on Malus Island; +but the results of these several excursions (in some of which ample time +was afforded me) did by no means answer my expectations; herbaceous +plants being for the most part dead, and the few (hard woody) shrubs +scarcely bearing fructification: disadvantages arising, in fact, from the +extreme barrenness of the land, and more particularly from the prevalent +droughts of the season, previous to the change of the monsoon, which soon +afterwards took place, obliging us to quit the North-west Coast +altogether; the remaining periods of the voyage being employed in the +examination of certain parts of the North Coast. + +We again reached the North-west Coast, in the month of September of the +following year, resuming the survey at its northern extremity, under the +most flattering views, and with a favourable season for the prosecution +of that primary object of the voyage. Between the meridians of 125 and +129 degrees, on the parallel of 14 degrees, although a large proportion +of the vegetation was for the most part destroyed by the long established +droughts, the number of specimens of plants bearing fructification, +gathered at Port Keats, Vansittart Bay, Port Warrender, and especially in +Cambridge Gulf (where we spent ten days) was nevertheless considerable +and highly interesting, belonging, however, almost wholly to established +genera of which Grevillea and Acacia were the most striking. The breaking +up of the monsoon at length again obliged Captain King to close his +examination of the coast for that season, to which we, however, returned +in September, 1820, continuing the survey westerly from the point at +which we had left those shores the preceding year. I had very eligible +opportunities of landing upon the shores of Montagu Sound, Capstan +Island, Cape Pond, York Sound, especially at the head of Hunter's River, +at Brunswick Bay, and in Careening Bay, Port Nelson; at which several +parts the collections formed were very important, but not extensive. + +Our encampment on the shore of the latter bay, during the repair of the +vessel, enabled me to examine the country around, to the distance of four +or five miles; but it being at the height of the dry season, +comparatively few flowering plants were detected, and no herbaceous +plants of importance. Our prolonged stay there also enabled me to form +some idea of the Flora of its shores and neighbouring country, from which +I gathered materials for comparison with the vegetation of Endeavour +River, situated at the eastern extreme of its parallel on the opposite +shore of the continent: the identity of certain species on either coast, +together with the inference drawn therefrom, will appear stated, towards +the close of this general notice. Very few new genera were the fruits of +this third voyage, but many undescribed plants of old genera were +discovered, and with those that are frequent on the North Coast, and +tropical shores of New South Wales, some were remarked that were +originally discovered on the South Coast. The period again arrived, that +rendered it necessary to depart from the coast, independent of the leaky +state of our vessel, which materially hastened our return to Port +Jackson, when the cutter was considered wholly unfit for a fourth voyage, +in which the complete survey of the north-west, and the examination of +the line of west coasts were contemplated. To effect this important +service, the colonial government purchased a brig, subsequently named the +Bathurst, and I again accompanied Captain King from Port Jackson, in May, +1821, to those parts of the coasts then remaining unexplored, at which we +arrived at the close of July. Our very limited stay on those shores, +however, was at that season wherein all vegetation was suffering under +the excess of drought; I had nevertheless the means afforded me of +ascertaining the general identity of the plants of Prince Regent's River, +Hanover Bay, and Port George the Fourth (portions of the coast explored +in the voyage) and other parts in the vicinity, that were examined the +preceding year, at a like season, but under circumstances much more +favourable. Upon our return to the North-west Coast from the Mauritius, +early in 1822, the only part visited was Cygnet Bay, situate about 2 1/2 +degrees to the south-west of the last-mentioned sound, and it happening +at a season when some rain had fallen, I met with several plants in an +abundant flowering state, of species, however, in part originally +discovered upon other coasts, and described by Mr. Brown, during the +Investigator's voyage. + +Of the West Coast (properly so denominated) which was seen during the +Bathurst's voyage, very little can be said in reference to its vegetable +productions, and most probably nothing can be here advanced, tending to +augment our very scanty knowledge of its Flora, acquired in part long +since, through the medium of the celebrated navigator, Dampier, but more +especially by the botanists accompanying Captain Baudin's voyage. I had +no opportunity of examining any part of the main, during our run +northerly along its extensive shore, but I landed on Rottnest Island, and +repeatedly visited the northern extremity of Dirk Hartog's Island, off +Shark's Bay, where I gathered, under every discouragement of season, some +of the most important portions of its rich vegetation; in many instances, +however, in very imperfect conditions of fructification. Its general +features led me decidedly to assimilate it to the striking character of +the botany of the South Coast; a characteristic of which it is more than +probable the mainland largely partakes, if we may draw an inference from +its aspect at widely distant parts. + +Upon those portions of the North Coast, which were chiefly surveyed +during the Mermaid's first voyage, at a period immediately subsequent to +the season of the rains, I had very favourable opportunities of +increasing my collections upon the Goulburn Islands, Ports Essington and +Raffles, Croker's Island, Mount-Norris Bay, and on the shores of Van +Diemen's Gulf; and among many described species, discovered formerly in +the great Gulf of Carpentaria, there were several most interesting new +plants. With a view towards an entire completion of the survey of the +several coasts of the continent, that part of New South Wales within the +tropic, north of Cape Bedford, which was not seen by Captain Cook, +entered into the plans of the Mermaid's second voyage; and it was highly +gratifying to my feelings to reflect that it was reserved for me to +complete several specimens discovered formerly in imperfect states by +those eminent naturalists who accompanied the above great +circumnavigator, in 1770, desiderata, that have been wanting ever since +this period of their discovery; no mediums of communication with those +particular parts of the coast having presented themselves. + +The aggregate of the several collections that have been formed during the +progress of the four voyages under the general circumstances above +briefly referred to, and which, as constituting a small Herbarium, will +be thus collectively spoken of in the following remarks, does not exceed +one thousand three hundred species of Phaenogamous plants; of these five +hundred and twenty are already described by authors, the other portion +being in part unpublished species, previously discovered on other coasts +of Terra Australis, and in part absolutely new, referable, however, +mostly to well defined genera. Of Cryptogamous plants, there are but few +species, and of these, or parasitical Orchideae, none have been detected +in these voyages in addition to those already described: a circumstance, +that with respect to the North-west Coast can reasonably be accounted +for, from the non-existence of primary mountains, or land above very +moderate elevation; by the absence of lofty dense forests (points of +character necessary to that permanency of atmospheric moisture, which +constitutes an essential requisite to the existence of almost the whole +of these tribes): and the consequent general exposure to the sun of those +arid shores. + +Limited in number as the new species really are, they will nevertheless +constitute, when added to the discoveries recently made, through the +medium of expeditions to the interior, from the colony of Port Jackson, +very important materials to carry on that Flora of Australia, so very +ably commenced by Mr. Brown. Since that eminent botanist has already +advanced much important matter in the valuable essay, published at the +close of the account of Captain Flinders' voyage, respecting the relative +proportions of the three grand divisions of plants in Australia, as far +as they had been discovered at that period, and has, from very extensive +materials, given us a comparative view of that portion of its Flora, and +the vegetation of other countries; I shall now simply submit a few +general remarks in this notice, on certain plants of established natural +families, that have been discovered in the progress of these voyages; +closing this paper with some observations, chiefly illustrative of the +geographical diffusion of several Australian plants known to authors, +whose localities have hitherto been exceedingly limited. + +PALMAE. On considering the vast expanse of the continent of Terra +Australis, and that great extent of coast which passes through climates +favourable for the production of certain genera of this remarkable +natural family, it is singular that so few of the order should have been +discovered: a fact in the history of the Australian vegetation, which +(upon contemplating the natural economy of many other genera of plants) +can only be considered as accounted for, by the great tendency to drought +of at least three-fifths of its shores. + +To Corypha, Seaforthia, and Livistona, the only three genera that have +been enumerated in the productions of the Australian Flora, may now be +added Calamus; of which a species (discovered without fructification, by +Sir Joseph Banks, during the celebrated voyage of Captain Cook) has at +length been detected bearing fruit in the vicinity of Endeavour River. +The existence of this palm, or rattan, on the East Coast, to which it is +confined, seems almost to be limited to an area within the parallels of +15 and 17 degrees South; should, however, its range be more extensive, it +is southerly one or two degrees, in which direction a remarkable primary +granitic formation of the coast continues, throughout the whole +neighbourhood of which is a peculiar density of dark moist forest, +seemingly dependent on it, and evidently indispensable to the life of +this species of Calamus; but at the termination of this geological +structure, it most probably ceases to exist. A dioecious palm of low +stature, and in habit similar to Seaforthia, was detected in the shaded +forests investing the River Hastings, in latitude 31 degrees South, +bearing male flowers; but as it may prove to be a dwarf state of a +species of that genus, which has lately been observed, with all its +tropical habits, in a higher latitude, it cannot now be recognised as a +sixth individual of the family whose fructification has been seen. + +Although this order has been observed to be sparingly scattered along the +line of East Coast almost to the thirty-fifth degree of south latitude, +its range on the opposite shores of the continent is very limited. Upon +the North-west Coast, the genus Livistona alone has been remarked, in +about latitude 15 degrees South; beyond which, throughout a very +extensive line of depressed shore, towards the North-west Cape, no palms +were seen. If the structure of a coast, and its natural disposition to +produce either humidity or drought be consulted (a point, with respect to +this order, as well as certain other tropical tribes, appearing very +important) those portions of the western shores recently seen, indicate +no one character that would justify the supposition of the existence of +the Palmae in the corresponding extremes of the respective parallels that +produce them on the opposite or East Coast. Another remark relative to +the economy of this family is, that in New Holland it seems confined to +the coasts, Corypha australis, so frequent in particular shaded +situations in the neighbourhood of Port Jackson, having never been +detected in the vicinity of, or upon the mountains, much less in the +distant country to the westward of that extensive boundary. + +ASPHODELEAE. Among the several described plants in the Herbarium, +referred to this family, that were collected upon the East and South-west +Coasts, are specimens in complete fructification of a remarkable plant of +arborescent growth, having a caudex twenty feet high, and all the habits +of Dracaena. It probably constitutes a new genus distinct from Cordyline +of Commerson, to which, however, it appears closely allied; and has an +extensive range on the East Coast, where, although it has for the most +part been observed within the tropic, it extends nevertheless as far as +latitude 31 degrees South. The only plants of Asphodeleae remarked on the +north-western shores, were an imperfect Tricoryne, probably Tenella of +Mr. Brown, discovered by that gentleman during the Investigator's voyage +on the South Coast; and the intratropical Asparagus, which is frequent in +latitude fifteen degrees South. + +CONIFERAE. To the general observations already made on that part of +Coniferae inhabiting the southern hemisphere, may be added some important +facts, to be gathered from the plants in the Herbarium of the late +voyages, that will afford a very correct view of the fructification of +some doubtful genera, as well as their limits. Among these the fruit of +Podocarpus aspleniifolia of M. Labillardiere, was observed, together with +the female fructification of another tree (the Huon pine) found also at +the southern extremes and western coast of Van Diemen's Land, which may +prove to be a Dacrydium. Callitris, of which seven species are known, and +principally found in the parallel of Port Jackson, has also been +discovered upon the North-west Coast, in about latitude 15 degrees South; +and another species, remarkable for its general robust habit, was +observed at Rottnest Island, on the West Coast. A tree, most certainly of +this family, and probably (from habit) a Podocarpus, has been seen upon +the East Coast, within the tropic, but the absence of fructification +prevented its genus being satisfactorily determined. With respect to the +extent of the order in the Islands of New Zealand, some recent specimens +gathered upon the northern, prove one of its pines to be a Podocarpus; +and another, producing a cone, and solitary, alternate scattered +elliptical leaves, shows its relation to Agathis of Salisbury, or Dammar +pine of Amboina. + +URTICEAE, whose mass appears also to be confined to equinoctial +countries, may be considered very limited in those parts of Terra +Australis lying within the tropic recently explored. Ficus is the most +considerable genus of the order in that continent; and although chiefly +found on the north and north-western shores, is also traced on the East +Coast, almost to latitude 36 degrees South, where the trees attain an +enormous size. About sixteen species are preserved in the collections of +the late voyages; all small trees, and one half of which has been +gathered on the North-west Coast. + +A species of Morus, bearing small white fruit, was discovered upon the +continent and islands of New South Wales within the tropic, where also a +new genus of the order, with radiated leaves, has been traced as far as +Endeavour River. Of the genus Urtica, whose numerous species can simply +be considered as of herbaceous duration, although a few of tropical +existence assume a fruticose habit, there is one plant in the vicinity of +the Colony of Port Jackson, remarkable for its gigantic, arborescent +growth; many specimens having been remarked from fifteen to twenty feet +in height, of proportional robust habit, and of highly stimulating +nature. + +SANTALACEAE. Nearly three-fourths of the Australian portion of the order +described, were formerly discovered in the parallel of Port Jackson, upon +the shores of the South Coast, and in Van Diemen's Land. The genus +Choretrum, however, heretofore limited to the southern extremes of the +continent, approaches within about two degrees of the tropic on the West +Coast, having been lately observed on Dirk Hartog's Island. It is rather +remarkable that neither Leptomeria nor Choretrum form a part of the +feature of the vegetation of the arid, depressed portions of the +North-west Coast,* where several of the more harsh, rigid kinds of +plants, of various genera, of the South Coast have been remarked. Those +extensive shores (generally speaking) are not wanting in the order, for +two species of the tropical genus Santalum, Exocarpus, and a +globular-fruited Fusanus, were collected in and about the parallel of 15 +degrees South. + +(*Footnote. Towards the North-west Cape.) + +PROTEACEAE. Since the publication of Mr. Brown's valuable dissertation on +this very extensive natural family, in which were described all the +species known at that period, a few important discoveries have been made +in Terra Australis, particularly on the North-west Coast, where the order +seems to be limited to Grevillea, Hakea, and Persoonia. + +In the Herbarium formed during the late voyages, are specimens of +thirteen species of intertropical Grevillea, in various stages of +perfection; of these seven are described from specimens formerly gathered +upon the East Coast, and in the Gulf of Carpentaria; the remaining six +are, however, perfectly new, and will chiefly augment the last section of +that genus, having hard (in some instances spherical) woody follicles, +containing seeds orbicularly surrounded by a membranous wing, more or +less dilated, and a deciduous style; characters that future botanists may +deem sufficient to justify its separation from Grevillea. The range of +this division, which has been named by Mr. Brown, Cycloptera, has been +hitherto limited to the Gulf of Carpentaria, and the tropical shores of +the East Coast. Of the genus Hakea, hitherto almost wholly excluded from +the tropical parts of Australia, besides H. arborescens, the only species +formerly observed within that circle, the Herbarium furnishes at least +two plants, that have been recently discovered in about 22 degrees south +latitude, the one being H. oleifolia of King George's Sound, whilst the +other proves an entirely new species, belonging to the first section of +the genus, having long filiform leaves, and ecalcarated capsules. + +Upon the East Coast in latitude 14 degrees two shrubs were observed +having all the habits of Hakea, of the South-west Coast, but being +without fructification, their identity could not be satisfactorily +determined. + +Viewing the general distribution of Banksiae, it is a singular fact in +the geographical history of this genus, that its species, which have been +traced through almost every meridian of the South Coast, upon the islands +in Bass Strait, in Van Diemen's Land, and widely scattered throughout the +whole extent of New South Wales to the North Coast, at which extreme of +the continent, B. dentata has been observed as far west as longitude 130 +degrees East, should be wholly wanting on the line of North-west Coast. +Why the links of this almost perfect chain should have been broken on the +seashores appears unaccountable, since they are, by reason of their +general sterility and exposure, extremely favourable to the growth of the +greater portion of the order. Our limited knowledge of the West Coast +(properly so called) does not afford us materials to hazard even a +partial conclusion, relative to the existence of this family on its +shores, excepting from the total absence of any one plant of Proteaceae +at those parts of Rottnest and Dirk Hartog's Islands visited during the +Bathurst's voyage; an inference may be drawn of the general paucity of +any part of the order on the shores of the neighbouring main. Although no +species have been found common to shores opposite to each other, in the +higher latitudes, the identity of Grevillea mimosoides, Persoonia +falcata, and Hakea arborescens, has been established upon the East Coast, +and the north-western shores, in the parallel of about 15 degrees South: +but whilst this geographical diffusion has been remarked in reference to +those particular species, the range of Grevillea gibbosa, a plant +discovered at Endeavour River by Sir Joseph Banks, is now tolerably well +defined by observations made during the late voyages, from which it +appears to be circumscribed to an area not exceeding one hundred and +twenty miles on the East Coast. In the course of the progress of the land +expedition above referred to, the discovery of another plant of this +natural order by Mr. Fraser, occurred in New South Wales, in a tract of +country west of the coastline, about the parallel of 31 degrees, where I +am informed it is a timber-tree of very large dimensions; and seemingly +it constitutes a new genus, nearly allied to Knightia of Mr. Brown, a +native of New Zealand, as I judged from a casual view of some specimens. + +LABIATAE and VERBENACEAE. The mass of these orders (which are admitted to +be very nearly allied to each other) seems in Australia to exist on its +eastern coast, within and beyond the tropic, and the species in the +collection lately formed, are referred to ten established genera, of +which (as belonging to Verbenaceae) Vitex and Premna are most remarkable +on the North-western Coast. + +Of Labiatae, a new species of Labillardiere's genus Prostranthera was +discovered upon Dirk Hartog's Island, where, as also at Rottnest Island, +Westringia was observed, of species, however, common to the South Coast. + +BORAGINEAE. Some very important amendments, in reference to the limits of +certain genera of the order have been proposed by Mr. Brown in his +Prodromus, where the characters are remodelled to the exclusion of +certain species previously referred to them by authors. Of Cordia (to +which Varronia of Linne, and Cerdana of Ruiz and Pavon, have at length +been united) only two species have been found in Terra Australis, of +which one had been previously discovered in New Caledonia; and during the +late voyages C. orientalis has been observed on the North-west Coast, +where a third species of Tournefortia in complete fructification was +discovered; and the Herbarium contains some species of that section of +Heliotropium, having a simple straight spicated inflorescence, which were +also found on those equinoctial parts of the continent. + +BIGNONIACEAE. Almost ninety species of this beautiful order are described +by authors, the greater part of which are at present incorporated among +the genuine species of Bignonia of Linne; a genus that will hereafter be +divided, according to the shape of the calyx, the number of fertile +stamina, and more especially the form of the fruit (which in some species +is an orbicular or elliptical capsule, varying in others to a long +cylindrical figure, with seeds partly cuneated, or thickened at one +extremity, and in others, a truly compressed Siliqua) together with the +relative position of the dissepiment, in respect to the valves of the +fruit. + +The greater portion of Bignoniaceae appears to exist in the equinoctial +parts of America; Some, however, are natives of India, and a few occur on +the western coast of Africa, and Island of Madagascar, but in Terra +Australis the order is reduced to four plants, of which one is a recent +discovery, and may be referred to Spathodea. In that continent, the order +exists only upon the North and East Coasts; it is not, however, entirely +limited to the tropic, for Tecoma of Mr. Brown is also found in latitude +34 degrees South, on which parallel it has been traced at least three +hundred and fifty miles in the interior to the westward of the colony of +Port Jackson. + +ASCLEPIADEAE and APOCINEAE. Nearly the whole of the plants in the +recently formed herbarium, that belong to these natural families, have +been described from specimens formerly discovered upon the East and North +Coasts, several of which appear to give a partial character to the +vegetation of some parts of its shores. + +Hoya (hardly Asclepias carnosa of Linne) Cynanchum, Gymnema, Gymnanthus, +Sarcostemma, and probably Secamone, as belonging to Asclepiadeae, and all +the genera of Mr. Brown (Lyonsia excepted) referred to the latter order, +exist on that extensive coast, where Balfouria and Alyxia have each an +accession of species. Of Strychnos, which is also frequent, and probably +produces its flowers during the rainy season (as has been remarked of +this genus in other countries) specimens in that stage of its +fructification are still a desideratum; all that is known respecting the +plant being the form and size of its fruit, which in some species varies +considerably. + +GOODENOVIAE. The Herbarium contains very few specimens of this +considerable Australian family, the greater mass existing in and to the +southward of the parallel of Port Jackson. The order is reduced to +Goodenia, Scaevola, Velleia, and the tropical Calogyne on the North-west +Coast, and the few species of the two first genera prove to have been +formerly discovered upon the South Coast during the voyage of Captain +Flinders, of which one plant has alsa a much more extensive range than +has been given it heretofore. It is Scaevola spinescens, which forms a +portion of the harsh, rigid vegetables of Dirk Hartog's Island on the +West Coast, and from that shore probably occupies a part of a very +considerable extent of barren country in the interior, in a direction +towards the East Coast, having been seen in abundance in the latitude of +Port Jackson, so near that colony as the meridian of 146 degrees 30 +minutes East. A new Velleia, discovered on the North-west Coast in +latitude 16 degrees, augments that genus, belonging to the section with a +pentaphyllous calyx. + +RUBIACEAE. The existence of several plants of this extensive family in +the intratropical parts of Terra Australis especially when aided by some +individuals of almost wholly exotic tribes, that form a prominent feature +in the Flora of other equinoctial countries, tend, in some measure, to +diminish the peculiar character of the vegetation of Terra Australis on +those shores, and thus it is a considerable assimilation to the Flora of +a part of a neighbouring continent that has been traced. About thirty +species are preserved in the collections of these voyages, for the most +part belonging to genera existing in India, but more abundant in the +tropical parts of South America. + +Of these, Gardenia, Guettarda, Cephaelis, Coffea, Psychotria, and +Morinda, are found on the East Coast; whilst, in corresponding parallels +on the opposite, or north-western shores, the order, although not +materially reduced, is limited to the two latter genera, with Rondeletia, +Ixora, and Genipa. + +It is worthy of remark, that the range of Psychotria, which has not been +observed beyond the tropics in other countries, extends in New South +Wales as far south as the latitude of 35 degrees; at the western +extremity of which it does not appear to exist. + +CAPRIFOLIAE, Juss. The situation of Loranthus and Visvum, in the system, +appears to be undetermined by authors. M. Jussieu associated them with +Rhizophora, in the second section of this order, from which Mr. Brown has +separated this latter genus, and with two others found in Terra +Australis, has constructed a distinct family, named Rhizophoreae; +suggesting, at the same time, the analogy of Loranthus and Viscum to +Santalaceae, and particularly to Proteaceae. The genus Loranthus, of +which nearly the whole of its described species have been limited to the +tropics, is, however, sparingly scattered on all the Coasts of Australia, +where about eleven species have been recently observed, parasitical +chiefly upon certain trees that constitute the mass of the forests of +that vast continent; namely, Eucalyptus, Casuarina, Acacia, and +Melaleuca. + +A solitary and very remarkable deviation from the usual natural economy +of Loranthus, is observed in a species (L. floribunda) described and +figured by M. Labillardiere, which is found on the shores of King +George's Sound, where, in no way recognising the dependent habits of its +congeners, it rises from the soil to a tree fifteen feet high, being +never remarked relying upon other vegetables for its subsistence. Viscum +is found in the colony of Port Jackson, to which it is not confined, +having been also gathered at Endeavour River, on the same coast, within +the tropic. The southern range of the two genera seems to be nearly +beyond the fortieth degree of latitude; but in the northern hemisphere, +Loranthus exists in Siberia. + +UMBELLIFERAE. The equinoctial portion of the Herbarium contains only +three or four plants of this extensive European order, belonging to +Hydrocotyle, Azorella of Cavanilles and Labillardiere (from which +Trachymene of Rudge is probably not distinct) and a suffruticose plant +referred to Cussonia, that have been collected upon the East Coast. Upon +the north-western shores, Azorella was alone remarked, of which a species +is very general upon its main and islands, and chiefly remarkable for its +gigantic herbaceous growth. + +MYRTACEAE. With respect to that portion of Myrtaceae, lately discovered +upon the north-western shores of Australia, and which are alone worthy of +remark here, it is to be observed, that, considering the many points of +that coast visited during the progress of the relative voyages, the +number of species observed are comparatively few, for, including +Eucalyptus, it does not exceed sixteen plants. Of Eucalyptus itself, only +seven species were detected on those shores, and these, for the most +part, form small trees, more approaching the average dimensions of all +their congeners in the colony of Port Jackson. Melaleuca is limited to +three species, one of which was originally discovered by the celebrated +navigator, Dampier, on the West Coast, where Beaufortia has been recently +seen. Four species of Tristania, their related genus, were gathered in +about latitude 15 degrees South, where also an Eugenia, bearing fruit, +was observed; but of Leptospermum, or Baeckea, genera chiefly belonging +to the higher latitudes of New Holland, no species appeared throughout +the whole extent of coast examined. + +RHAMNEAE and CELASTRINAE were formerly united among the Rhamni of +Jussieu, but disposed in sections, differing from each other in the +position of the stamina, with relation to the petals, and in the +character of the fruit; which, when viewed with other important +differences of fructification, induced Mr. Brown to modify and define +them as distinct orders. + +In the Herbarium of the voyages, there are a few plants belonging to +Rhamnus, Ziziphus, Ceanothus, or Pomaderris, and Celastrus, but both +families prove to be comparatively rare in the intratropical parts of +Terra Australis, beyond which Cryptandra seems only to exist. Upon the +north-western shores, a species of Ziziphus (common to the East and North +Coasts) forms a tree of large dimensions, where also an undescribed +Celastrus has been discovered. Since Pomaderris evidently increases from +the verge of the tropic southerly towards the parallel of Port Jackson, +where its maximum exists, and as it is frequent on the South Coast, it is +highly probable the West Coast is not wanting of the genus, particularly +as traces of it were found on Dirk Hartog's Island. + +LEGUMINOSEAE. There are upwards of one hundred and forty species of this +extensive natural class in the Herbarium recently formed, which bear a +proportion to the aggregate of the entire collections of about one to +nine. + +Of the Australian portion of Mimoseae, which (having been met with upon +all the coasts of the continent, and equally diffused in the interior) +forms a leading characteristic of its vegetation, upwards of fifty +species have been collected, in various stages of fructification; nearly +the whole of which are unpublished plants. Several of those discovered on +the north-western shores, and islands off the West Coast, being also +extremely curious in their general form and habits; and the existence of +a few appears limited to a solitary particular situation, and no one +species was observed common to those parts, and the opposite or eastern +shores of the continent. + +The Papilionaceous division exceeds seventy species, two-thirds of which +belong to established diadelphous genera, found chiefly within the +tropic, where some, peculiar to Terra Australis, and heretofore limited +to the more temperate regions, have been discovered. Thus Hovea and +Bossiaea were detected in New South Wales, in latitude 20 and 22 degrees +South, as well as on the North Coast; the latter genus being likewise +found on the north-western shores, where also two species of Kennedia +exist; and Templetonia, a genus nearly related to Bossiaea, originally +discovered on the southern shores of Australia, is abundant on an island +off the West Coast. + +Upon the North-west Coast, particularly in the parallels of 14 and 15 +degrees South, where an exotic feature (if the usual characteristic of +the Flora of other countries might in this case be so termed) is as +manifest, and is as strongly blended with the pure Australian character +(Eucalyptus and Acacia) in its general vegetation, as on any other parts +of those shores; Jacksonia and Gompholobium, genera of Papilionaceae, +with distinct stamens, almost limited to the parallel of Port Jackson and +the South Coast, were observed: Daviesia, almost wholly restricted to the +higher Australian latitudes, has been remarked on the North Coast. Of +Lomentaceae, Bauhinia, Caesalpinia, and the emigrant genus Guilandina, +are all of intratropical existence in New South Wales, as also upon the +North-west Coast; but Cassia, although it has an equal extensive range in +the equinoctial parts of New Holland, has also been recently traced as +far in the interior, on the parallel of Port Jackson, as the meridian of +146 degrees East. + +EUPHORBIACEAE. The Herbarium contains thirty-three plants of this very +numerous order, whose maximum seems decidedly to exist in India and +equinoctial America. The whole of the Australian species are referable to +established Linnean genera, of which Croton and Phyllanthus are most +remarkable and numerous, existing on all the intratropical shores of +Terra Australis, but by no means limited to them, both genera, together +with Euphorbia and Jatropha, being found in the parallel of Port Jackson; +and Croton exists likewise at the southern extreme of Van Diemen's Land, +which is probably the limit of the genus on that hemisphere. + +A Tragia (scarcely distinct from a species indigenous in India) is +sparingly scattered on the East and North Coasts; and Acalypha has been +remarked on these, as well as the north-western shores. + +PITTOSPOREAE. Of this small family, whose characters and limits were +first described by Mr. Brown, there are sixteen species in the Herbarium +of these voyages, referable to Bursaria, Billardiera, Pittosporum, and +two unpublished genera. + +Billardiera, whose species are wholly volubilous, and which are not found +north of the parallel of Port Jackson, is frequent on the South-west +Coast, and has been recently remarked on the West Coast of Van Diemen's +Land. Bursaria on the other hand, appearing limited to New South Wales, +has been traced within the tropic to latitude 19 degrees South on those +eastern shores, and although the genus Pittosporum is even more +extensively diffused on that coast, it has not been met with upon the +north-western shores, whilst the islands off the West Coast furnished me +with two new species. + +DIOSMEAE, although very frequent in the higher latitudes of Terra +Australis, where they are so frequent as to give a peculiar character to +their vegetable productions, is comparatively rare within the tropic; for +upon the East Coast Eriostemon and Phebalium appear to be the only +genera, the latter having been recently discovered, in about latitude 20 +degrees South. + +With some undescribed species of Boronia, a new genus allied to +Eriostemon has been observed on the north-western shores, in the parallel +of 15 degrees South, having a remarkable pinnatified fimbriated calyx. + +Of the related family ZYGOPHYLLEAE (an order proposed by Mr. Brown to be +separated from the Rutaceae of Jussieu) Tribulus is frequent on the +tropical shores of New Holland, and a species of Zygophyllum, with linear +conjugate leaves and tetrapterous fruit, was remarked upon an island off +Shark's Bay, on the West Coast. + +MELIACEAE. The several genera of this order, whose maximum is in the +equinoctial parts of America, differ from each other in the form of the +remarkable cylindrical nectarium, the situation or insertion of the +antherae upon it, as well as the character of its almost wholly capsular +fruit. This structure of nectarium is most striking in Turraea, of which +a species was observed upon the East Coast, far within the tropic; where +also, as well as on all the other equinoctial shores of the continent, +Carapa, more remarkable on account of the valvular character of its +capsules, and the magnitude and irregular figure of its nuts, is very +general, and probably not distinct from the plant (C. moluccensis, Lam.) +of Rumphius, who has given us a figure in his Herbarium Amboinense volume +3 table 61, 62. + +SAPINDACEAE. Of the very few plants referred to the family in the +Herbarium, two genera are only worthy of remark here, the one an +Ornitrophe, found on the East Coast, in about latitude 35 degrees, as +also within the tropic; and the other, which appears to belong to +Stadmannia, was discovered upon the same coast, in latitude 31 degrees +South, the type of the genus being the bois de fer of the French +colonists, a timber tree indigenous at the Island of Mauritius. + +MALVACEAE, Juss. Tiliaceae, Juss. Sterculiaceae, Vent. Buttnericeae, +Brown. These several families, of which the first is by far the most +extensive, have been viewed by Mr. Brown, as so many allied orders of one +natural class, to which the general title of Malvaceae might be applied. +About thirty-six species of these orders collectively, are preserved in +the present Herbarium, referable at least to eleven genera, of which nine +are most abundant in (and form a characteristic feature of) the botany of +India, and the equinoctial parts of South America. Fourteen species of +Hibiscus and Sida were observed on the intratropical Coasts of Australia, +beyond which also, on the opposite shores of the continent, each genus +has been remarked. One species of Bombax with polyandrous flowers, and +subspherical obtusely pentagonal capsules, was discovered upon the East +Coast, in about latitude 14 degrees South, and on nearly the western +extreme of the same parallel, it appeared much more abundant. Of +Sterculia which is scarcely to be found beyond the tropics in other +countries, a species exists in New South Wales in the latitude of 34 +degrees, on which parallel it is more frequent in the western interior, +and in that direction it has been traced to the distance of three hundred +miles from the sea-coast. The genus is also found on the North and +North-west Coasts, where the species assume more particularly the habits +of their congeners in India. Among the plants of this family in the +Herbarium is a species of Helicteris (as the genus stands at present) +which was observed on the North-west Coast bearing fruit, wanting the +contortion that characterizes the genus. + +This plant, together with three other described species, having straight +capsules, may hereafter be separated from that Linnean genus, and +constitute a new one of themselves. Grewia, Corchorus, Triumfetta, and +Waltheria, have been observed upon the North-west Coast, where also +Abroma, hitherto limited to the tropical parts of New South Wales, has +been discovered bearing flowers and young fruit. One species of +Commersonia was gathered at widely-different parts of the north-western +shores, and Lasiopetalum, whose species are more general at both extremes +of the parallel of the colony of Port Jackson, has been also seen just +within the tropic on the East Coast, and at Dirk Hartog's Island, off +Shark's Bay, on the opposite shore. + +CAPPARIDES. At least ten species of Capparis have been discovered upon +the coasts of Terra Australis, for the most part within the tropic, but +of these the fructification of two are wanting. A few have been detected +on the East Coast, but they are more frequent and various in their +species upon the north-western shores of the continent. Within an area on +this extensive coast, not exceeding four degrees of longitude, on the +parallel of 15 degrees South, a tree of very remarkable growth and habit, +has been traced, having all the external form and bulk of Adansonia of +the western shores of Africa. At the respective period of visiting those +parts of the North-west Coast, this gouty tree had previously cast its +foliage of the preceding year, which is of quinary insertion, but it bore +ripe fruit, which is a large elliptical pedicellated unilocalar capsule +(a bacca corticosa) containing many seeds enveloped in a dry pithy +substance. Its flowers, however, have never been discovered, but from the +characters of the fruit, it was (upon discovery) referred to this natural +family. M. Du Petit Thouars has formed a new genus of Capparis +pauduriformis of Lamarck, a plant of the Island of Mauritius, which he +has named Calyptranthus. It has one division of the calyx so formed, that +by its arcuated concavity (before expansion) it conceals the whole +flower, and the other portions of the calyx; and should this genus be +adopted by future botanists, a second species has been recently +discovered upon Dirk Hartog's Island, although of remarkably different +habit. + +Cleome has been observed only in the equinoctial parts of Australia, and +like Capparis, several species exist on the North-west Coast, being +limited to C. viscosa in New South Wales. + +Drosera, which Jussieu associates with these genera is generally +diffused, being found within the tropic, at Endeavour River, and on the +North-west Coast; at Port Jackson, and at the southern extremes of Van +Diemen's Land. + +DILLENIACEAE. To that Australian portion of the order lately enumerated +by M. Decandolle, the present Herbarium offers, in addition, only two +species of the genus Hemistemma of M. Du Petit Thouars. The one +discovered on the North-west Coast, and allied to H. angustifolium of Mr. +Brown; the other proving also new, but approaching in character the +doubtful species, H. leschenaultii of Decandolle, and was discovered upon +Rottnest Island, off the western coast of the continent, and is the first +certain species of the genus, that is not limited to a tropical +existence. + +In addition to what has been advanced in respect to certain natural +orders that appear in the Herbarium, formed under the stated +circumstances, a slight mention might be made of other detached genera, +or families sparingly observed on these coasts, that were more +particularly investigated during the progress of the late voyages; but as +these several plants form portions of orders so extremely limited, and in +themselves presenting nothing remarkable in their internal structure, or +external habit, a few remarks on a general comparison of the vegetation +of the North-west Coast, with the other shores of Terra Australis, will +conclude this notice. + +It is very necessary to premise, that the plants observed and collected +upon the North-west Coast, during the late voyages, are not to be +considered as even a distant approach to an entire Flora of that +extensive line of shore; since the long-established droughts of the +seasons (as already remarked) in which the greater part of that coast was +visited, had wholly destroyed plants of annual duration, with most of the +Gramineae, and had indeed generally affected the mass of its herbaceous +vegetation. The collections, therefore, can simply be viewed as a +gleaning, affording such general outlines of characteristic feature, as +will enable the botanist to trace its affinity to the more minutely +defined vegetation of the other equinoctial shores of the continent, as +well as perceive its general, and, in some instances, almost total want +of relation to the botany of other parts, in the more temperate or higher +latitudes, where certain striking peculiarities of the Australian Flora +more particularly exist. + +Upon a general comparison of those collections that were thus formed on +the North-west Coast, with the plants of the North and East Coasts, aided +also by some few observations made during the voyages, it appears that +(with the exception of Gompholobium, Boronia, Kennedia, and one or two +unpublished species not referred to any family) the genera (of which +several are proper to India) are the same, although the species are very +distinct upon the several coasts. + +Notwithstanding an identity of genera has been remarked upon their +opposite shores, there are, nevertheless, certain others, frequent upon +the East Coast, that appear wholly wanting on the north-western shores: +of these, the existence of some, even in the tropical parts of New South +Wales, seems governed by the primary formation of the coast, its +mountainous structure, and consequent permanency of moisture in a greater +or less degree; namely, almost all the genera of Filices, the parasitical +Orchideae, Piper, Dracontium and Calladium (genera of Aroideae) Commelina +and Aneilema, Calamus and Seaforthia, Hellenia a solitary Australian +genus of Scitamineae, some genera of Rubiaceae, particularly Psychotria +and Coffea, certain genera of Asphodeleae, as Cordyline, and a genus +allied to it, whose fructification is at length obtained, a solitary +plant of Melastomeae, and an individual Nymphea. + +Other genera also, but little influenced by those local circumstances of +situation on the East Coast, that are excluded from the opposite shores, +are Leucopogon (the only equinoctial genus of Epacrideae observed during +the late voyages) the families Bignoniaceae, Jasmineae, the genus +Erythrina, and of Coniferae, Araucaria of Norfolk Island. This absence of +several orders of plants on the north-western shores, existing in New +South Wales, or opposite coast, as well as the consideration (at the same +time) of the evident causes of such a disparity of species on the former +coast, would suggest the opinion, that such plants alone of other parts +of the continent are indigenous to the North-west Coast, as are capable +of sustaining themselves in a soil subjected to seasons of protracted +parching droughts. This may apply to some species upon that coast, but it +cannot be reduced to a general conclusion; for, on the one hand, it is +singular so few of the plants of the South and South-west Coasts, and +particularly that none other of their genera of Proteaceae (than those +already mentioned) found altogether in an arid soil, should have been +discovered throughout any part of its extensive shore; whilst, on the +other hand, at a peculiar structure of a small and limited portion of +that coast, in the vicinity of York Sound, a sufficiency of shade was +observed to be actually produced by the unusually broken character of the +country, to favour the nourishment and growth of certain plants alone to +be seen beneath the shade of dense forests. These species were Myristica +insipida, discovered by Mr. Brown, on one of the Prince of Wales group of +islands on the North Coast; Cryptocarya triplinervis, Brown; bearing ripe +fruit, Abroma fastuosa; and an undescribed Eugenia. + +Although the several genera of plants lately observed on the +north-western shores are also frequent in other equinoctial parts of the +continent, there is, among the many species which are absolutely proper +to that coast, a Capparis of such extraordinary habit, as to form a +feature in the landscape of a limited extent of its shores, in the +enormous bulk of its stem and general ramification, bearing a striking +analogy to the Adansonia of the west coast of Africa. + +The results of such observations on the vegetation as could only be made +in a general way, at parts approaching each extreme of the North-west +Coast, show their little affinity to each other; for the northern +extremity partakes more fully of that feature of the line of coast +contiguous to it, which (as already remarked) extends along the +north-western shores, declines materially at, and in the vicinity of +their southern limits, where the characteristic vegetation of the south, +and perhaps the west, coasts has more particularly been found. Besides +Eucalyptus and Acacia, which are abundant on every shore, and generally +diffused throughout those parts of the interior that have been +penetrated, there is another genus almost equally dispersed, which is, +however, on the North-west Coast reduced to three species. This is +Dodonaea, whose maximum is certainly in New South Wales, within and +beyond the tropic, upon the coast, and generally in the interior of the +country, extending also to the southern extremity of Van Diemen's Land. + +Our very limited knowledge of the Flora of this vast continent (excepting +of a part east of longitude 144 degrees, and included between the +parallels of 31 and 35 degrees in New South Wales) is entirely confined +to the vegetation of its immediate shores, upon every distinct coast of +which, landings, more or less frequent, and under various circumstances, +have been effected; although of all, very considerable portions remain +unexplored, and of the line of West Coast (properly so denominated) the +shores of Shark's Bay, and some few parts south of it, have alone been +scientifically investigated. The interior within the tropic remains +entirely in obscurity; the continental defect of a want of large streams +having a distant source, to aid a penetration to the internal parts of +the country, together with other effectual obstacles, draw at present a +veil, and forbid all research into its Natural History and character, +which will not be removed for very considerable periods (perhaps ages) +yet to come! + +It was the general remark made during a former expedition in the interior +of New South Wales, that no absolutely entire change takes place in the +vegetation east of the meridian of the new settlement named Bathurst; but +that the plants of the coast were more or less frequent at a hundred and +fifty miles from the sea, although in a country estimated at about two +thousand feet above its level. Having to this circumstance added a +remarkable and obvious sameness (arising from an extensive dispersion) of +a vein of vegetation in a large tract of country, it may be inquired, how +far these facts might, when applied to other parallels, identify a +certain portion of the Flora of the interior, and that of the sea-coast +in the same latitude; or, in other terms, how far the botany of the coast +indicates the general feature of the vegetation to a certain limit, in +the interior on the same parallel? Favourable opportunities were afforded +me, to compare the vegetation of opposite coasts within the tropic, at +the eastern and western extremes of a particular parallel; and the +results of such a comparison identified many species on the two coasts. I +have annexed a list of those plants that are common to the North-west and +East Coasts in and about the parallel of 15 degrees South, from a +contemplation of which, together with the above remarks, and a further +comparison of the species with those of the shores of the Gulf of +Carpentaria, through which that degree of latitude passes, might not a +general idea of some portion of the Flora of the expanse of intermediate +interior (far beyond the reach of actual investigation) be presumed? + +A few observations relative to the geographical range of certain genera +and species, hitherto considerably circumscribed, will close this notice. + +The genus Pandanus has ever been viewed by botanists as equinoctial; nor +was it till recently ascertained satisfactorily, that one of its species +(P. pedunculatus, Brown) exists on the shores of Port Macquarie in New +South Wales, in latitude 31 degrees South: and I have been credibly +informed, that the same plant is frequent in the vicinity of Port +Stephens, which is at least a degree to the southward of the above +parallel. The latitude of 32 degrees South may be considered the utmost +extreme of ranges from the equator of the genus in Terra Australis, on +the opposite shore of which, as also in all other countries, it has not +been remarked beyond the tropics. + +The palms of Terra Australis, which (as previously observed) are +remarkably limited on the north-western shores, have a very considerable +diffusion on the North and East Coasts, and have even a more general +dispersion on the latter shores, than has been allowed them formerly. +Seaforthia is frequent in dense forests on the East Coast, almost to +latitude 35 degrees South, where it exhibits all the tropical habits +assumed on the northern shores, although the difference of climate, and +consequent temperature, are abundantly obvious. On the other hand, a palm +of very robust growth, with large flabelliform fronds, and spinous +foot-stalks, was remarked at the head of Liverpool River, in latitude 12 +degrees South, on the North Coast; and although without fructification, +no doubt existed of its being the Corypha australis, hitherto limited to +the shores and vicinity of Port Jackson. + +Araucaria excelsa. The Norfolk Island pine, which, without doubt, must +have been particularly noticed by the celebrated circumnavigator Captain +Cook, in 1770, on the discovery of New South Wales, although the +circumstance of the very general existence of a pine upon the islands and +main of that coast, north of the Percy Isles, does not appear to be +mentioned in the accounts of that particular voyage, has a far more +extensive range upon that shore than has been hitherto understood. During +the Mermaid's voyages, Araucaria was observed in the vicinity of Mount +Warning, in New South Wales, which lies in the parallel of Norfolk Island +(29 degrees South); thence northerly it was very sparingly seen towards +the tropic, within which, however, as far as latitude 14 degrees, it is +very abundant, forming upon several islands the only timber. This is +probably the nearest approach of the species to the equinoctial line; and +although it occupies an area of nine hundred miles, it is very probably +limited in Terra Australis to its immediate shores; and, as appears to be +the case with Pandanus, exists only within the influence of the sea air. + +Calladium macrorhizon, Willd., formerly observed by Sir Joseph Banks, at +Endeavour River, on the East Coast, has been recently detected in moist +woods, in the country off which the Five Islands are situate, extending +on that shore to latitude 35 degrees South: and Schelhammera multiflora, +Br., a delicate plant of Melanthaceae, discovered likewise at Endeavour +River, abounds in shady forests, in latitude 31 degrees, upon the same +extensive coast. + +The following plants, formerly considered as indigenous only in Van +Diemen's Land, have been recently ascertained to exist also in New South +Wales, in or about the parallel of the colony of Port Jackson. + +Croton viscosum, Labill., originally discovered on the South-west Coast, +was seen in the interior, as far to the westward of the colony as +longitude 146 degrees East. + +Croton quadripartitum, Labill., was observed in longitude 148 degrees. + +Goodia latifolia, Salisb., was remarked sparingly in the interior, in the +meridian of 147 degrees 30 minutes East: and Daviesia latifolia of Mr. +Brown is very frequent in societies upon plains at Bathurst, in longitude +149 degrees East, where also Eryngium vesiculosum, of Labillardiere, was +observed. + +Aster argophyllus and obovatus, Labill. These two species were described +by Mons. Labillardiere, from specimens gathered in the southern extremes +of the above island, and have been lately seen tolerably frequent in a +remarkable tract of country, in latitude 34 degrees, on the limit of the +colony, where the former assumes a robust, arborescent habit. Aster +phlogopappus, of the same eminent author, was recently remarked upon the +more elevated parts of the Blue Mountain Range, on the margin of a +remarkable cataract. + +... + +A LIST OF PLANTS COMMON TO THE EAST AND NORTH-WEST COASTS OF TERRA +AUSTRALIS, IN AND ABOUT THE PARALLEL OF FIFTEEN DEGREES SOUTH, WHERE THE +BREADTH OF CONTINENT EXCEEDS 1800 MILES. + +Gleichenia Hermanni, Br. +Eriocaulon fistulosum, Br. +Philydrum lanuginosum, Gaertn. +Flagellaria indica, L. +Dioscorea bulbifera, L. +*? Pandanus pedunculatus, Br. +Cycas angulata, Br. +Santalum oblongatum, Br. +Exocarpus latifolia, Br. +Persoonia falcata, Br. +Grevillea mimosoides, Br. +Hakea arborescens, Br. +Buchnera ramosissima, Br. +Adenosma coerulea, Br. +Orthostemon erectum, Br. +Tabernaemontana orientalis, Br. +Carissa ovata, Br. +Strychnos lucida, Br. +Alyxia obtusifolia, Br. +Ipomoea longifiora, Br. +Ipomoea denticulata, Br. +Ipomoea maritima, Br. +Evolvulus villosus, R. et Pav. +Cuscuta carinata, Br. +Cordia orientalis, Br. +* Clerodendrum inerme, Br. +* Avicennia tomentosa, L. +Chionanthus axillaris, Br. +Olea paniculata, Br. +Maba laurina, Br. +Sersalisia obovata, Br. +Mimusops parvifolia, Br. +Terminalia, sp. allied to Catappa, Lam. +Cleome viscosa, L. +Capparis sepiaria, L. +Hibiscus tiliaceus, L. +Abroma fastuosa, Br. +Bombax australis. +Jacksonia thesioides. +Bauhiniae sp. +Caesalpiniae sp. +Cassia occidentalis, L. +Guilandina Bonduc, L. +Morinda citrifolia, L. +* Carapa moluccensis, Lam. +Zizyphus melastomoides. +* Bruguiera gymnorhiza, Lam. +Casuarina equisetifolia, Lam. + +Should the botany of the shores of the Gulf of Carpentaria, in the +vicinity of those parts, through which the above parallels pass, +generally correspond (on comparison) with the above list, it is more than +probable that these several species occupy portions of the intermediate +interior bounded by the meridians of 125 and 145 degrees East; those +plants excepted, having an asterisk prefixed to them, which as forming +mangroves, or from other causes exist only on the sea shore. + +... + +A LIST OF PLANTS OBSERVED DURING THE LATE VOYAGES ON THE SHORES OF TERRA +AUSTRALIS, THAT ARE ALSO COMMON TO INDIA OR SOUTH AMERICA. + +Acrostichum alcicorne, Sw. +Polypodium acrostichoides, Sw. +Nephrodium exaltatum, Br. +Nephrodium unitum, Br. +Vittaria elongata, Sw. +Asplenium nidus, L. +Daval1ia flaccida, Br. +Gleichenia Hermanni, Br. +Flagellaria indica, L. +Dioscorea bulbifera, L. +Calladium ? macrorhizon, Willd. +Aristolochia indica, L. +Daphne indica, L. +Salicornia indica, Willd. +Deeringia celosioides, Br. +Plumbago zeylanica, L. +Dischidia nummularifolia, Br. +Acanthus ilicifolius, L. +Acanthus ebracteatus, L. +Ipomea Turpethum, Br. +Ipomea denticulata, Br. +Ipomea maritima, Br. +Evolvulus villosus, R. et Pav. +Trichodesma zeylanica, Br. +Tournefortia argentea, L. +Cordia orientalis, Br. +Plectranthus scutellarioides, Br. +Clerodendrum inerme, Br. +Vitex ovata, L. +Vitex trifolia, L. +Avicennia tomentosa, L. +Mimusops kauki, L. +Aegiceras fragrans, C. Koenig. +Scaevola koenigii, Vahl. +Cleome viscosa, L. +Capparis sepiaria, L. ? +Calophyllum inophyllum, L. +Morinda citrifolia, L. +Carapa moluccensis, Lam. +Sophora tomentosa, L. +Cassia occidentalis, L. +Guilandina bonduc, L. +Abrus precatorius, L. +? Acacia scandens, Willd. ? +Hibiscus tiliaceus, L. +Suriana maritima, Jacqu. +Pemphis acida, Forst. +Rhizophora mangle, L. ? +Bruguiera gymnorhiza, Lam. +Sonneratia acida, L. +Abroma fastuosa, Br. +Casuarina equisetifolia, Forst. + +... + +CHARACTER AND DESCRIPTION OF KINGIA, A NEW GENUS OF PLANTS FOUND ON THE +SOUTH-WEST COAST OF NEW HOLLAND: WITH OBSERVATIONS ON THE STRUCTURE OF +ITS UNIMPREGNATED OVULUM; AND ON THE FEMALE FLOWER OF CYCADEAE AND +CONIFERAE. + +BY ROBERT BROWN, ESQUIRE, F.R.S.S.L. AND E. F.L.S. + +(READ BEFORE THE LINNEAN SOCIETY OF LONDON, NOVEMBER 1 AND 15, 1825.) + +In the Botanical Appendix to the Voyage to Terra Australis, I have +mentioned a plant of very remarkable appearance, observed in the year +1801, near the shores of King George the Third's Sound, in Mr. Westall's +view of which, published in Captain Flinders' Narrative, it is +introduced. + +The plant in question was then found with only the imperfect remains of +fructification: I judged of its affinities, therefore, merely from its +habit, and as in this respect it entirely agrees with Xanthorrhoea, +included the short notice given of it in my remarks on Asphodeleae, to +which that genus was referred.* Mr. Cunningham, the botanist attached to +Captain King's voyages, who examined the plant in the same place of +growth, in February, 1818, and in December, 1821, was not more fortunate +than myself. Captain King, however, in his last visit to King George's +Sound, in November, 1822, observed it with ripe seeds: and at length Mr. +William Baxter, whose attention I had particularly directed to this +plant, found it, on the shores of the same port in 1823, both in flower +and fruit. To this zealous collector, and to his liberal employer, Mr. +Henchman, I am indebted for complete specimens of its fructification, +which enable me to establish it as a genus distinct from any yet +described. + +(*Footnote. Flinders Voyage volume 2 page 576.) + +To this new genus I have given the name of my friend Captain King, who, +during his important surveys of the Coasts of New Holland, formed +valuable collections in several departments of Natural History, and on +all occasions gave every assistance in his power to Mr. Cunningham, the +indefatigable botanist who accompanied him. The name is also intended as +a mark of respect to the memory of the late Captain Philip Gidley King, +who, as Governor of New South Wales, materially forwarded the objects of +Captain Flinders' voyage; and to whose friendship Mr. Ferdinand Bauer and +myself were indebted for important assistance in our pursuits while we +remained in that colony. + +KINGIA. + +ORD. NAT. Junceae prope Dasypogon, Calectasiam et Xerotem. + +CHAR. GEN. Perianthium sexpartitum, regulare, glumaceum, persistens. +Stamina sex, fera hypogyna: Antheris basi affixis. Ovarium triloculare, +loculis monospermis; ovulis adscendentibus. Stylus 1. Stigma tridentatum. +Pericarpium exsuccum, indehiscens, monospermum, perianthio scarioso +cinctum. + +Planta facie Xanthorrhoeae elatioris. Caudex arhorescens cicatricibus +basibusve foliorum exasperatus? Folia caudicem terminantia confertissima +longissima, figura et dispositione Xanthorrhoeae. Pedunculi numerosi +foliis breviores, bracteis vaginantibus imbricatis tecti, floriferi +terminales erecti, mox, caudice parum elongato foliisque novellis +productis, laterales, et divaricati vel deflexi, terminati capitulo denso +globoso floribus tribracteatis. + +Kingia australis. Table C. + +DESC. Caudex arborescens erectus simplicissimus cylindraceus, 6-18-pedes +altus, crassitie femoris. Folia caudicem terminantia numerosissima +patula, apicibus arcuato-recurvis, lorea, solida, ancipitia apice +teretiusculo, novella undique tecta pilis adpressis strictis acutis +laevibus, angulis lateralibus et ventrali retrorsum scabris. Pedunculi +numerosi teretes 8-12-pollicares crassitie digiti, vaginis integris +brevibus imbricatis hinc in foliolum subulatum productis tecti. Capitulum +globosum, floridum magnitudine pruni minoris, fructiferum pomum parvum +aequans. Flores undique dense imbricati, tribracteati, sessiles. Bractea +exterior lanceolata breve acuminata planiuscula erecta, extus villosa +intus glabra, post lapsum fructus persistens: duae laterales +angusto-naviculares, acutissimae, carina lateribusque villosis, +longitudine fere exterioris, simul cum perianthio fructifero, separatim +tamen, dilabentibus. Perianthium sexpartitum regulare subaequale +glumaceum: foliola lanceolata acutissima disco nervoso nervis immersis +simplicissimis, antica et postica plana, lateralia complicata lateribus +inaequalibus, omnia basi subangustata, extus longitudinaliter sed extra +medium praecipue villosa, intus glaberrima, aestivatione imbricata. +Stamina sex subaequalia, aestivatione stricta filamentis sensim +elongantibus: Filamenta fere hypogyna ipsis basibus foliolorum perianthii +quibus opposita leviter adhaerentia, filiformia glabra teretia: Antherae +stantes, ante dehiscentiam lineares obtusae filamento paulo latiores, +defloratae subulatae vix crassitie filamenti, loculis parallelo-contiguis +connectivo dorsali angusto adnatis, axi ventrali longitudinaliter +dehiscentibus, lobulis baseos brevibus acutis subadnatis: Pollen simplex +breve ovale laeve. Pistillum: Ovarium sessile disco nullo squamulisve +cinctum, lanceolatum trigono-anceps villosum, triloculare, loculis +monospermis. Ovula erecta fundo anguli interioris loculi paulo supra +basin suam inserta, obovata lenticulari-compressa, aptera: Testa in ipsa +basi acutiuscula foramine minuto perforata: Membrana interna respectu +testae inversa, hujusce nempe apici lata basi inserta, ovata apice +angustato aperto foramen testae obturante: Nucleus cavitate membranae +conformis, ejusdem basi insertus, caeterum liber, pulposus solidus, apice +acutiusculo laevi aperturam membranae internae attingente. Stylus +trigonus strictus, infra villosus, dimidio superiore glabro, altitudine +staminum, iisdem paulo praecocior, exsertus nempe dum illa adhuc inclusa. +Stigmata tria brevissima acuta denticuliformia. Pericarpium exsuccum, +indehiscens, villosum, basi styli aristatum, perianthio scarioso et +filamentis emarcidis cinctum, abortione monospermum. Semen turgidum +obovatum retusum, integumento (testa) simplici membranaceo aqueo-pallido, +bine (intus) fere a basi acutiuscula, raphe fusca verticem retusum +attingente ibique in chalazam parvam concolorem ampliata. Albumen semini +conforme dense carnosum album. Embryo monocotyledoneus, aqueo-pallidus +subglobosus, extremitate inferiore (radiculari) acuta, in ipsa basi +seminis situs, semi-immersus, nec albumine omnino inclusus. + +Table C. figure 1. Kingiae australis pedunculus capitulo florido +terminatus; figure 2, capitulum fructiferum; 3, sectio transversalis +pedunculi: 4, folium: hae magnitudine naturali, sequentes omnes plus +minus auctae sunt; 5, flos; 6, stamen; 7, anthera antice et, 8, eadem +postice visa; 9, pistillum; 10, ovarii sectio transversalis; 11, ejusdem +portio longitudinaliter secta exhibens ovulum adscendens cavitatem loculi +replens; 12, ovulum ita longitudinaliter sectum ut membrana interna +solummodo ejusque insertio in apice cavitatis testae visa sit; 13, ovuli +sectio longitudinalis profundius ducta exhibens membranam internam et +nucleum ex ejusdem basi ortum; 14, bracteae capituli fructiferi; 15, +pericarpium perianthio filamentisque persistentibus cinctum; 16, +pericarpium perianthio avulso filamentorum basibus relictis; 17, semen. + +OBS. 1. + +It remains to be ascertained, whether in this genus a resin is secreted +by the bases of the lower leaves, as in Xanthorrhoea; and whether, which +is probable, it agrees also in the internal structure of its stem with +that genus. In Xanthorrhoea the direction of fibres or vessels of the +caudex seems at first sight to resemble in some degree the dicotyledonous +arrangement, but in reality much more nearly approaches to that of +Dracaena draco, allowance being made for the greater number, and extreme +narrowness of leaves, to which all the radiating vessels belong.* + +(*Footnote. My knowledge of this remarkable structure of Xanthorrhoea is +chiefly derived from specimens of the caudex of one of the larger species +of the genus, brought from Port Jackson, and deposited in the collection +at the Jardin du Roi of Paris by M. Gaudichaud, the very intelligent +botanist who was attached to Captain De Freycinet's voyage.) + +OBS. 2. + +I have placed Kingia in the natural order Junceae along with Dasypogon, +Calectasia and Xerotes, genera peculiar to New Holland, and of which the +two former have hitherto been observed only, along with it, on the shores +of King George's Sound. + +The striking resemblance of Kingia, in caudex and leaves, to +Xanthorrhoea, cannot fail to suggest its affinity to that genus also. +Although this affinity is not confirmed by a minute comparison of the +parts of fructification, a sufficient agreement is still manifest to +strengthen the doubts formerly expressed of the importance of those +characters, by which I attempted to define certain families of the great +class Liliaceae. + +In addition, however, to the difference in texture of the outer coat of +the seed, and in those other points, on which I then chiefly depended in +distinguishing Junceae from Asphodeleae, a more important character in +Junceae exists in the position of the embryo, whose radicle points always +to the base of the seed, the external umbilicus being placed in the axis +of the inner or ventral surface, either immediately above the base as in +Kingia, or towards the middle, as in Xerotes. + +OBS. 3. + +ON THE STRUCTURE OF THE UNIMPREGNATED OVULUM IN PHAENOGAMOUS PLANTS. + +The description which I have given of the Ovulum of Kingia, though +essentially different from the accounts hitherto published of that organ +before fecundation, in reality agrees with its ordinary structure in +Phaenogamous plants. + +I shall endeavour to establish these two points; namely, the agreement of +this description with the usual structure of the Ovulum, and its +essential difference from the accounts of other observers, as briefly as +possible at present; in tending hereafter to treat the subject at greater +length, and also with other views. + +I have formerly more than once* adverted to the structure of the Ovulum, +chiefly as to the indications it affords, even before fecundation, of the +place and direction of the future Embryo. These remarks, however, which +were certainly very brief, seem entirely to have escaped the notice of +those authors who have since written on the same subject. + +(*Footnote. Flinders Voyage 2 page 601, and Linnean Society Transactions +12 page page 136.) + +In the Botanical Appendix to the account of Captain Flinders' Voyage, +published in 1814, the following description of the Ovulum of Cephalotus +follicularis is given: Ovulum erectum, intra testam membranaceam +continens sacculum pendulum, magnitudine cavitatis testae, and in +reference to this description, I have in the same place remarked that, +"from the structure of the Ovulum, even in the unimpregnated state, I +entertain no doubt that the radicle of the Embryo points to the +umbilicus."* + +(*Footnote. Flinders Voyage loc. cit.) + +My attention had been first directed to this subject in 1809, in +consequence of the opinion I had then formed of the function of the +Chalaza in seeds;* and sometime before the publication of the observation +now quoted, I had ascertained that in Phaenogamous plants the +unimpregnated Ovulum very generally consisted of two concentric +membranes, or coats, enclosing a Nucleus of a pulpy cellular texture. I +had observed also, that the inner coat had no connexion either with the +outer or with the nucleus, except at its origin; and that with relation +to the outer coat it was generally inverted, while it always agreed in +direction with the nucleus. And, lastly, that at the apex of the nucleus +the radicle of the future Embryo would constantly be found. + +(*Footnote. Linnean Society Transactions 10 page 35.) + +On these grounds my opinion respecting the Embryo of Cephalotus was +formed. In describing the Ovulum in this genus, I employed, indeed, the +less correct term sacculus, which, however, sufficiently expressed the +appearance of the included body in the specimens examined, and served to +denote my uncertainty in this case as to the presence of the inner +membrane. + +I was at that time also aware of the existence, in several plants, of a +foramen in the coats of the Ovulum, always distinct from, and in some +cases diametrically opposite to the external umbilicus, and which I had +in no instance found cohering either directly with the parietes of the +Ovarium, or with any process derived from them. But, as I was then unable +to detect this foramen in many of the plants which I had examined, I did +not attach sufficient importance to it; and in judging of the direction +of the Embryo, entirely depended on ascertaining the apex of the nucleus, +either directly by dissection, or indirectly from the vascular cord of +the outer membrane: the termination of this cord affording a sure +indication of the origin of the inner membrane, and consequently of the +base of the nucleus, the position of whose apex is therefore readily +determined. + +In this state of my knowledge the subject was taken up in 1818, by my +lamented friend the late Mr. Thomas Smith, who, eminently qualified for +an investigation where minute accuracy and great experience in +microscopical observation were necessary, succeeded in ascertaining the +very general existence of the foramen in the membranes of the Ovulum. But +as the foramina in these membranes invariably correspond both with each +other and with the apex of the nucleus, a test of the direction of the +future Embryo was consequently found nearly as universal, and more +obvious than that which I had previously employed. + +To determine in what degree this account of the vegetable Ovulum differs +from those hitherto given, and in some measure, that its correctness may +be judged of, I shall proceed to state the various observations that have +been actually made, and the opinions that have been formed on the +subject, as briefly as I am able, taking them in chronological order. + +In 1672, Grew* describes in the outer coat of the seeds of many +Leguminous plants a small foramen, placed opposite to the radicle of the +Embryo, which, he adds, is "not a hole casually made, or by the breaking +off of the stalk," but formed for purposes afterwards stated to be the +aeration of the Embryo, and facilitating the passage of its radicle in +germination. It appears that he did not consider this foramen in the +testa as always present, the functions which he ascribes to it being +performed in cases where it is not found, either, according to him, by +the hilum itself, or in hard fruits, by an aperture in the stone or +shell. + +(*Footnote. Anatomy of Veget. begun page 3. Anatomy of Plants page 2.) + +In another part of his work* he describes and figures, in the early state +of the Ovulum, two coats, of which the outer is the testa; the other, his +middle membrane, is evidently what I have termed nucleus, whose origin in +the Ovulum of the Apricot he has distinctly represented and described. + +(*Footnote. Anatomy of Plants page 210 table 80.) + +Malpighi, in 1675,* gives the same account of the early state of the +Ovulum; his secundinae externae being the testa, and his chorion the +nucleus. He has not, however, distinguished, though he appears to have +seen, the foramen of Grew, from the fenestra and fenestella, and these, +to which he assigns the same functions, are merely his terms for the +hilum. + +(*Footnote. Anatome Plant. page 75 et 80.) + +In 1694, Camerarius, in his admirable essay on the sexes of plants,* +proposes, as queries merely, various modes in which either the entire +grains of pollen, or their particles after bursting, may be supposed to +reach and act upon the unimpregnated Ovula, which he had himself +carefully observed. With his usual candour, however, he acknowledges his +obligation on this subject to Malpighi, to whose more detailed account of +them he refers. + +(*Footnote. Rudolphi Jacobi Camerarii de sexu plantarum epistola page 8 +46 et seq.) + +Mr. Samuel Morland, in 1703,* in extending Leeuwenhoek's hypothesis of +generation to plants, assumes the existence of an aperture in the Ovulum, +through which it is impregnated. It appears, indeed, that he had not +actually observed this aperture before fecundation, but inferred its +existence generally and at that period, from having, as he says, +"discovered in the seeds of beans, peas, and Phaseoli, just under one end +of what we call the eye, a manifest perforation, which leads directly to +the seminal plant," and by which he supposes the Embryo to have entered. +This perforation is evidently the foramen discovered in the seeds of +Leguminous plants by Grew, of whose observations respecting it he takes +no notice, though he quotes him in another part of his subject. + +(*Footnote. Philosophical Transactions volume 23 n. 287 page 1474.) + +In 1704, Etienne Francois Geoffroy,* and in 1711, his brother Claude +Joseph Geoffroy,** in support of the same hypothesis, state the general +existence of an aperture in the unimpregnated vegetable Ovulum. It is +not, however, probable that these authors had really seen this aperture +in the early state of the Ovulum in any case, but rather that they had +merely advanced from the observation of Grew, and the conjecture founded +on it by Morland, whose hypothesis they adopt without acknowledgment, to +the unqualified assertion of its existence, in all cases. For it is to be +remarked, that they take no notice of what had previously been observed +or asserted on the more important parts of their subject, while several +passages are evidently copied, and the whole account of the original +state and development of the Ovulum is literally translated from +Camerarius' Essay. Nor does the younger Geoffroy mention the earlier +publication of his brother, from which his own memoir is in great part +manifestly derived. + +(*Footnote. Quaestio Medica an Hominis primordia Vermis? in auctoris +Tractatu de Materia Medica tome 1 page 123.) + +(**Footnote. Mem. de l'Acad. des Sc. de Paris 1711 page 210.) + +In 1718; Vaillant,* who rejects the vermicular hypothesis of generation, +supposes the influence of the Pollen to consist in an aura, conveyed by +the tracheae of the style to the ovula, which it enters, if I rightly +understand him, by the funiculus umbilicalis: at the same time he seems +to admit the existence of the aperture in the coat. + +(*Footnote. Discours sur la Structure des Fleurs page 20.) + +In 1745, Needham,* and in 1770, Gleichen,** adopt the hypothesis of +Morland, somewhat modified, however, as they consider the particles in +the grains of Pollen, not the grains themselves, to be the embryos, and +that they enter the ovula by the umbilical cord. + +(*Footnote. New Microscopical Discoveries page 60.) + +(**Footnote. Observ. Microscop. page 45 et 61 paragraph 118.) + +Adanson, in 1763,* states the Embryo to exist before fecundation, and +that it receives its first excitement from a vapour or aura proceeding +from the Pollen, conveyed to it through the tracheae of the style, and +entering the Ovulum by the umbilical cord. + +(*Footnote. Fam. des Plant. tom. 1 page 121.) + +Spallanzani,* who appears to have carefully examined the unimpregnated +Ovula of a considerable variety of plants, found it in general to be a +homogeneous, spongy, or gelatinous body; but in two Cucurbitaceae to +consist of a nucleus surrounded by three coats. Of these coats he rightly +supposes the outermost to be merely the epidermis of the middle membrane +or testa. Of the relative direction of the testa and inner coat in the +two plants in question he takes no notice, nor does he in any case +mention an aperture in the Ovulum. + +(*Footnote. Fisica Anim. e Veget. tome 3 page 309 to 332.) + +Gaertner, who, in the preface to his celebrated work, displays great +erudition in every branch of his subject, can hardly, however, be +considered an original observer in this part. He describes the +unimpregnated Ovulum as a pulpy homogeneous globule, whose epidermis, +then scarcely distinguishable, separates in a more advanced stage, and +becomes the testa of the seed, the inner membrane of which is entirely +the product of fecundation.* He asserts also that the Embryo constantly +appears at that point of the ovulum where the ultimate branches of the +umbilical vessels perforate the inner membrane; and therefore mistakes +the apex for the base of the nucleus. + +(*Footnote. Gaert. de Fruct. et Sem. 1 page 57, 59 et 61.) + +In 1806 Mons. Turpin* published a memoir on the organ, by which the +fecundating fluid is introduced into the vegetable ovulum. The substance +of this memoir is, that in all Phaenogamous plants fecundation takes +place through a cord or fasciculus of vessels entering the outer coat of +the ovulum, at a point distinct from, but at the period of impregnation +closely approximated to the umbilicus, and to the cicatrix of this cord, +which itself is soon obliterated, he gives the name of Micropyle: that +the ovulum has two coats, each having its proper umbilicus, or, as he +terms it, omphalode; that these coats in general correspond in direction; +that more rarely the inner membrane is, with relation to the outer, +inverted; and that towards the origin of the inner membrane the radicle +of the embryo uniformly points. + +(*Footnote. Annal. du Mus. d'Hist. Nat. 7 page 199.) + +It is singular that a botanist, so ingenious and experienced as M. +Turpin, should, on this subject, instead of appealing in every case to +the unimpregnated ovulum, have apparently contented himself with an +examination of the ripe seed. Hence, however, he has formed an erroneous +opinion of the nature and origin, and in some plants of the situation, of +the micropyle itself, and hence also he has in all cases mistaken the +apex for the base of the nucleus. + +A minute examination of the early state of the ovulum does not seem to +have entered into the plan of the late celebrated M. Richard, when in +1808 he published his valuable and original Analyse du Fruit. The ovulum +has, according to him, but one covering, which in the ripe seed he calls +episperm. He considers the centre of the hilum as the base, and the +chalaza, where it exists, as the natural apex of the seed. + +M. Mirbel, in 1815, though admitting the existence of the foramen or +micropyle of the testa,* describes the ovulum as receiving by the hilum +both nourishing and fecundating vessels,** and as consisting of a uniform +parenchyma, in which the embryo appears at first a minute point, +gradually converting more or less of the surrounding tissue into its own +substance; the coats and albumen of the seed being formed of that portion +which remains.*** + +(*Footnote. Elem. de Physiol. Veg. et de Bot. tome 1 page 49.) + +(**Footnote. Id. tome 1 page 314.) + +(***Footnote. Id. loc. cit.) + +In the same year, M. Auguste de Saint Hilaire,* shows that the micropyle +is not always approximated to the umbilicus; that in some plants it is +situated at the opposite extremity of the ovulum, and that in all cases +it corresponds with the radicle of the embryo. This excellent botanist, +at the same time, adopts M. Turpin's opinion, that the micropyle is the +cicatrix of a vascular cord, and even gives instances of its connexion +with the parietes of the ovarium; mistaking, as I believe, contact, which +in some plants unquestionably takes place, and in one family, namely, +Plumbagineae, in a very remarkable manner, but only after a certain +period, for original cohesion, or organic connexion, which I have not met +with in any case. + +(*Footnote. Mem. du Mus. d'Hist. Nat. 2 page 270 et seq.) + +In 1815 also appeared the masterly dissertation of Professor Ludolf +Christian Treviranus, on the development of the vegetable embryo,* in +which he describes the ovulum before fecundation as having two coats: but +of these, his inner coat is evidently the middle membrane of Grew, the +chorion of Malpighi, or what I have termed nucleus. + +(*Footnote. Entwick. des Embryo im Pflanzen-Ey.) + +In 1822, Mons. Dutrochet, unacquainted, as it would seem, with the +dissertation of Professor Treviranus, published his observations on the +same subject.* In what regards the structure of the ovulum, he +essentially agrees with that author, and has equally overlooked the inner +membrane. + +(*Footnote. Mem. du Mus. d'Hist. Nat. tome 8 page 241 et seq.) + +It is remarkable that neither of these observers should have noticed the +foramen in the testa. And as they do not even mention the well-known +essays of MM. Turpin and Auguste de St. Hilaire on the micropyle, it may +be presumed that they were not disposed to adopt the statements of these +authors respecting it. + +Professor Link, in his Philosophia Botanica, published in 1824, adopts +the account given by Treviranus, of the coats of the ovulum before +impregnation:* and of M. Turpin, as to the situation of the micropyle, +and its being the cicatrix of a vascular cord. Yet he seems not to admit +the function ascribed to it, and asserts that it is in many cases +wanting.** + +(*Footnote. Elem. Philos. Bot. page 338.) + +(**Footnote. Id. page 340.) + +The account which I have given of the structure of the vegetable ovulum, +differs essentially from all those now quoted, and I am not acquainted +with any other observations of importance respecting it. + +Of the authors referred to, it may be remarked, that those who have most +particularly attended to the ovulum externally, have not always examined +it at a sufficiently early period, and have confined themselves to its +surface: that those who have most minutely examined its internal +structure, have trusted too much to sections merely, and have neglected +its appearance externally: and that those who have not at all examined it +in the early stage, have given the most correct account of its surface. +This account was founded on a very limited observation of ripe seeds, +generalized and extended to the unimpregnated ovulum, in connexion with +an hypothesis then very commonly received: but this hypothesis being soon +after abandoned, their statement respecting the ovulum was rejected along +with it. + +In the ovulum of Kingia, the inner membrane, with relation to the +external umbilicus, is inverted; and this, as I have already observed, +though in direct opposition to M. Turpin's account, is the usual +structure of the organ. There are, however, several families in each of +the two primary divisions of phaenogamous plants, in which the inner +membrane, and consequently the nucleus, agrees in direction with the +testa. In such cases the external umbilicus alone affords a certain +indication of the position of the future embryo. + +It is an obvious consequence of what has been already stated, that the +radicle of the embryo can never point directly to the external umbilicus +or hilum, though this is said to be generally the case by the most +celebrated carpologists. + +Another observation may be made, less obviously a consequence of the +structure described, but equally at variance with many of the published +accounts and figures of seeds, namely, that the radicle is never +absolutely enclosed in the albumen; but, in the recent state, is either +immediately in contact with the inner membrane of the seed, or this +contact is established by means of a process generally very short, but +sometimes of great length, and which indeed in all cases may be regarded +as an elongation of its own substance. From this rule I have found one +apparent deviation, but in a case altogether so peculiar, that it can +hardly be considered as setting it aside. + +It is necessary to observe, that I am acquainted with exceptions to the +structure of the ovulum as I have here described it, In Compositae its +coats seem to be imperforated, and hardly separable, either from each +other or from the nucleus, in this family, therefore, the direction of +the embryo can only be judged of from the vessels of the testa.* And in +Lemna I have found an apparent inversion of the embryo with relation to +the apex of the nucleus. In this genus, however, such other peculiarities +of structure and economy exist, that, paradoxical as the assertion may +seem, I consider the exception rather as confirming than lessening the +importance of the character. + +(*Footnote. Linnean Society Transactions 12 page 136.) + +It may perhaps be unnecessary to remark, that the raphe, or vascular cord +of the outer coat, almost universally belongs to that side of the ovulum +which is next the placenta. But it is at least deserving of notice, that +the very few apparent exceptions to this rule evidently tend to confirm +it. The most remarkable of these exceptions occur in those species of +Euonymus, which, contrary to the usual structure of the genus and family +they belong to, have pendulous ovula; and, as I have long since noticed, +in the perfect ovula only of Abelia.* In these, and in the other cases in +which the raphe is on the outer side, or that most remote from the +placenta, the ovula are in reality resupinate; an economy apparently +essential to their development. + +(*Footnote. Abel's China page 377.) + +The distinct origins and different directions of the nourishing vessels +and channel through which fecundation took place in the ovulum, may still +be seen in many of those ripe seeds that are winged, and either present +their margins to the placenta, as in Proteaceae, or have the plane of the +wing at right angles to it, as in several Liliaceae. These organs are +visible also in some of those seeds that have their testa produced at +both ends beyond the inner membrane, as Nepenthes; a structure which +proves the outer coat of scobiform seeds, as they are called, to be +really testa, and not arillus, as it has often been termed. + +The importance of distinguishing between the membranes of the +unimpregnated ovulum and those of the ripe seed, must be sufficiently +evident from what has been already stated. But this distinction has been +necessarily neglected by two classes of observers. The first consisting +of those, among whom are several of the most eminent carpologists, who +have regarded the coats of the seed as products of fecundation. The +second of those authors who, professing to give an account of the ovulum +itself, have made their observations chiefly, or entirely, on the ripe +seed, the coats of which they must consequently have supposed to be +formed before impregnation. + +The consideration of the arillus, which is of rare occurrence, is never +complete, and whose development takes place chiefly after fecundation, +might here, perhaps, be entirely omitted. It is, however, worthy of +remark, that in the early stage of the ovulum, this envelope is in +general hardly visible even in those cases where, as in Hibbertia +volubilis, it attains the greatest size in the ripe seed; nor does it in +any case, with which I am acquainted, cover the foramen of the testa +until after fecundation. + +The testa, or outer coat of the seed, is very generally formed by the +outer membrane of the ovulum; and in most cases where the nucleus is +inverted, which is the more usual structure, its origin may be +satisfactorily determined; either by the hilum being more or less +lateral, while the foramen is terminal; or more obviously, and with +greater certainty where the raphe is visible, this vascular cord +uniformly belonging to the outer membrane of the ovulum. The chalaza, +properly so called, though merely the termination of the raphe, affords a +less certain character, for in many plants it is hardly visible on the +inner surface of the testa, but is intimately united with the areola of +insertion of the inner membrane or of the nucleus, to one or other of +which it then seems entirely to belong. In those cases where the testa +agrees in direction with the nucleus, I am not acquainted with any +character by which it can be absolutely distinguished from the inner +membrane in the ripe seed; but as a few plants are already known, in +which the outer membrane is originally incomplete, its entire absence, +even before fecundation, is conceivable; and some possible cases of such +a structure will be mentioned hereafter. + +There are several cases known, some of which I have formerly noticed,* of +the complete obliteration of the testa in the ripe seed; and on the other +hand it appears to constitute the greater part of the substance of the +bulb-like seeds of many Liliaceae, where it no doubt performs also the +function of albumen, from which, however, it is readily distinguished by +its vascularity.** But the most remarkable deviation from the usual +structure and economy of the outer membrane of the ovulum, both in its +earliest stage and in the ripe fruit, that I have yet met with, occurs in +Banksia and Dryandra. In these two genera I have ascertained that the +inner membrane of the ovulum, before fecundation, is entirely exposed, +the outer membrane being even then open its whole length; and that the +outer membranes of the two collateral ovula, which are originally +distinct, cohere in a more advanced stage by their corresponding +surfaces, and together constitute the anomalous dissepiment of the +capsule; the inner membrane of the ovulum consequently forming the outer +coat of the seed. + +(*Footnote. Linnean Society Transactions 12 page 149.) + +(**Footnote. Ibid.) + +The inner membrane of the ovulum, however, in general appears to be of +greater importance as connected with fecundation, than as affording +protection to the nucleus at a more advanced period. For in many cases, +before impregnation, its perforated apex projects beyond the aperture of +the testa, and in some plants puts on the appearance of an obtuse, or +even dilated stigma; while in the ripe seed it is often either entirely +obliterated, or exists only as a thin film, which might readily be +mistaken for the epidermis of a third membrane then frequently +observable. + +This third coat is formed by the proper membrane or cuticle of the +Nucleus, from whose substance in the unimpregnated ovulum it is never, I +believe, separable, and at that period is very rarely visible. In the +ripe seed it is indistinguishable from the inner membrane only by its +apex, which is never perforated, is generally acute and more deeply +coloured, or even sphacelated. + +The membrane of the nucleus usually constitutes the innermost coat of the +seed. But in a few plants an additional coat, apparently originating in +the inner membrane of Grew, the vesicula colliquamenti or amnios of +Malpighi also exists. + +In general the Amnios, after fecundation, gradually enlarges, till at +length it displaces or absorbs the whole substance of the nucleus, +containing in the ripe seed both the embryo and albumen, where the latter +continues to exist. In such cases, however, its proper membrane is +commonly obliterated, and its place supplied either by that of the +nucleus, by the inner membrane of the ovulum, or, where both these are +evanescent, by the testa itself. + +In other cases the albumen is formed by a deposition of granular matter +in the cells of the nucleus. In some of these cases the membrane of the +amnios seems to be persistent, forming even in the ripe seed a proper +coat for the embryo, the original attachment of whose radicle to the apex +of this coat may also continue. This, at least, seems to me the most +probable explanation of the structure of true Nymphaeaceae, namely, +Nuphar, Nymphaea, Euryale, Hydropeltis, and Cabomba, notwithstanding +their very remarkable germination, as observed and figured in Nymphaea +and Nuphar by Tittmann.* + +(*Footnote. Keimung der Pflanzen page 19 et 27 table 3 et 4.) + +In support of this explanation, which differs from all those yet given, I +may here advert to an observation published many years ago, though it +seems to have escaped every author who has since written on the subject, +namely, that before the maturity of the seed in Nymphaeaceae, the +sacculus contains along with the embryo a (pulpy or semi-fluid) +substance, which I then called Vitellus, applying at that time this name +to every body interposed between the albumen and embryo.* The opinion +receives some confirmation also from the existence of an extremely fine +filament, hitherto overlooked, which, originating from the centre of the +lower surface of the sacculus, and passing through the hollow axis of the +Albumen, probably connects this coat of the Embryo in an early stage with +the base of the nucleus. + +(*Footnote. Prodr. Flor. Nov. Holl. 1 page 306.) + +The same explanation of structure applies to the seeds of Piperaceae and +Saururus; and other instances occur of the persistence either of the +membrane or of the substance of the amnios in the ripe seed. + +It may be concluded from the whole account which I have given of the +structure of the ovulum, that the more important changes consequent to +real, or even to spurious fecundation, must take place within the +nucleus: and that the albumen, properly so called, may be formed either +by a deposition or secretion of granular matter in the utriculi of the +amnios, or in those of the nucleus itself, or lastly, that two substances +having these distinct origins, and very different textures, may co-exist +in the ripe seed, as is probably the case in Scitamineae. + +On the subject of the ovulum, as contained in an ovarium, I shall at +present make but one other remark, which forms a necessary introduction +to the observations that follow. + +ON THE STRUCTURE OF THE FEMALE FLOWER IN CYCADEAE AND CONIFERAE. + +That the apex of the nucleus is the point of the ovulum where +impregnation takes place, is at least highly probable, both from the +constancy in the appearance of the embryo at that point, and from the +very general inversion of the nucleus; for by this inversion its apex is +brought nearly, or absolutely, into contact with that part of the +parietes of the ovarium, by which the influence of the pollen may be +supposed to be communicated. In several of those families of plants, +however, in which the nucleus is not inverted, and the placentae are +polyspermous, as Cistineae,* it is difficult to comprehend in what manner +this influence can reach its apex externally, except on the supposition, +not hastily to be admitted, of an impregnating aura filling the cavity of +the ovarium; or by the complete separation of the fecundating tubes from +the placentae, which, however, in such cases I have never been able to +detect. + +(*Footnote. This structure of ovulum, indicated by that of the seed, as +characterizing and defining the limits of Cistineae (namely, Cistus, +Helianthemum, Hudsonia and Lechea) I communicated to Dr. Hooker, by whom +it is noticed in his Flora Scotica (page 284) published in 1821; where, +however, an observation is added respecting Gaertner's description of +Cistus and Helianthemum, for which I am not accountable.) + +It would entirely remove the doubts that may exist respecting the point +of impregnation, if cases could be produced where the ovarium was either +altogether wanting, or so imperfectly formed, that the ovulum itself +became directly exposed to the action of the pollen, or its fovilla; its +apex, as well as the orifice of its immediate covering, being modified +and developed to adapt them to this economy. + +But such, I believe, is the real explanation of the structure of +Cycadeae, of Coniferae, of Ephedra, and even of Gnetum, of which Thoa of +Aublet is a species. + +To this view the most formidable objection would be removed, were it +admitted, in conformity with the preceding observations, that the apex of +the nucleus, or supposed point of impregnation, has no organic connexion +with the parietes of the ovarium. In support of it, also, as far as +regards the direct action of the pollen on the ovulum, numerous instances +of analogous economy in the animal kingdom may be adduced. + +The similarity of the female flower in Cycadeae and Coniferae to the +ovulum of other phaenogamous plants, as I have described it, is indeed +sufficiently obvious to render the opinion here advanced not altogether +improbable. But the proof of its correctness must chiefly rest on a +resemblance, in every essential point, being established, between the +inner body in the supposed female flower in these tribes, and the nucleus +of the ovulum in ordinary structures; not only in the early stage, but +also in the whole series of changes consequent to fecundation. Now as far +as I have yet examined, there is nearly a complete agreement in all these +respects. I am not entirely satisfied, however, with the observations I +have hitherto been able to make on a subject naturally difficult, and to +which I have not till lately attended with my present view. + +The facts most likely to be produced as arguments against this view of +the structure of Coniferae, are the unequal and apparently secreting +surface of the apex of the supposed nucleus in most cases; its occasional +projection beyond the orifice of the outer coat; its cohesion with that +coat by a considerable portion of its surface, and the not unfrequent +division of the orifice of the coat. Yet most of these peculiarities of +structure might perhaps be adduced in support of the opinion advanced, +being apparent adaptations to the supposed economy. + +There is one fact that will hardly be brought forward as an objection, +and which yet seems to me to present a difficulty, to this opinion; +namely, the greater simplicity in Cycadeae, and in the principal part of +Coniferae, of the supposed ovulum which consists of a nucleus and one +coat only, compared with the organ as generally existing when enclosed in +an ovarium. The want of uniformity in this respect may even be stated as +another difficulty, for in some genera of Coniferae the ovulum appears to +be complete. + +In Ephedra, indeed, where the nucleus is provided with two envelopes, the +outer may, perhaps, be supposed rather analogous to the calyx, or +involucrum of the male flower, than as belonging to the ovulum; but in +Gnetum, where three envelopes exist, two of these may, with great +probability, be regarded as coats of the nucleus; while in Podocarpus and +Dacrydium, the outer cupula, as I formerly termed it,* may also, perhaps, +be viewed as the testa of the ovulum. To this view, as far as relates to +Dacrydium, the longitudinal fissure of the outer coat in the early stage, +and its state in the ripe fruit, in which it forms only a partial +covering, may be objected.** But these objections are, in a great +measure, removed by the analogous structure already described in Banksia +and Dryandra. + +(*Footnote. Flinders Voyage volume 2 page 573.) + +(**Footnote. Id. loc. cit.) + +The plurality of embryos sometimes occurring in Coniferae, and which, in +Cycadeae, seems even to be the natural structure, may also, perhaps, be +supposed to form an objection to the present opinion, though to me it +appears rather an argument in its favour. + +Upon the whole, the objections to which the view here taken of the +structure of these two families is still liable, seem to me, as far as I +am aware of them, much less important than those that may be brought +against the other opinions that have been advanced, and still divide +botanists on this subject. + +According to the earliest of these opinions, the female flower of +Cycadeae and Coniferae is a monospermous pistillum, having no proper +floral envelope. + +To this structure, however, Pinus itself was long considered by many +botanists as presenting an exception. + +Linnaeus has expressed himself so obscurely in the natural character +which he has given of this genus, that I find it difficult to determine +what his opinion of its structure really was. I am inclined, however, to +believe it to have been much nearer the truth than is generally supposed; +judging of it from a comparison of his essential with his artificial +generic character, and from an observation recorded in his Praelectiones, +published by Giseke.* + +(*Footnote. Praelect. in Ord. Nat. page 589.) + +But the first clear account that I have met with, of the real structure +of Pinus, as far as regards the direction, or base and apex of the female +flowers, is given, in 1767, by Trew, who describes them in the following +manner: "Singula semina vel potius germina stigmati tanquam organo +feminino gaudent,"* and his figure of the female flower of the Larch, in +which the stigmata project beyond the base of the scale, removes all +doubt respecting his meaning. + +(*Footnote. Nov. Act. Acad. Nat. Curios. 3 page 453 table 13 figure 23.) + +In 1789, M. de Jussieu, in the character of his genus Abies,* gives a +similar account of structure, though somewhat less clearly as well as +less decidedly expressed. In the observations that follow, he suggests, +as not improbable, a very different view, founded on the supposed analogy +with Araucaria, whose structure was then misunderstood; namely, that the +inner scale of the female amentum is a bilocular ovarium, of which the +outer scale is the style. But this, according to Sir James Smith,** was +also Linnaeus' opinion; and it is the view adopted in Mr. Lambert's +splendid monograph of the genus published in 1803. + +(*Footnote. Gen. Pl. page 414.) + +(**Footnote. Rees Cyclop. art. Pinus.) + +In the same year in which Mr. Lambert's work appeared, Schkuhr* +describes, and very distinctly figures, the female flower of Pinus, +exactly as it was understood by Trew, whose opinion was probably unknown +to him. + +(*Footnote. Botan. Handb. 3 page 276 table 308.) + +In 1807, a memoir on this subject, by Mr. Salisbury, was published,* in +which an account of structure is given, in no important particular +different from that of Trew and Schkuhr, with whose observations he +appears to have been unacquainted. + +(*Footnote. Linnean Society Transactions 8 page 308.) + +M. Mirbel, in 1809,* held the same opinion, both with respect to Pinus +and to the whole natural family. But in 1812, in conjunction with M. +Schoubert,** he proposed a very different view of the structure of +Cycadeae and Coniferae, stating, that in their female flowers there is +not only a minute cohering perianthium present, but an external +additional envelope, to which he has given the name of cupula. + +(*Footnote. Ann. du Mus. d'Hist. Nat. tome 15 page 473.) + +(**Footnote. Nouv. Bulletin des Sc. tome 3 pages 73, 85 et 121.) + +In 1814 I adopted this view, as far, at least, as regards the manner of +impregnation, and stated some facts in support of it.* But on +reconsidering the subject, in connexion with what I had ascertained +respecting the vegetable ovulum, I soon after altogether abandoned this +opinion, without, however, venturing explicitly to state that now +advanced, and which had then suggested itself.** + +(*Footnote. Flinders Voyage 2 572.) + +(**Footnote. Tuckey Congo page 454 et Linnean Society Transactions volume +13 page 213.) + +It is well known that the late M. Richard had prepared a very valuable +memoir on these two families of plants; and he appears, from some +observations lately published by his son, M. Achille Richard,* to have +formed an opinion respecting their structure somewhat different from that +of M. Mirbel, whose cupula is, according to him, the perianthium, more or +less cohering with the included pistillum. He was probably led to this +view, on ascertaining, which I had also done, that the common account of +the structure of Ephedra was incorrect,** its supposed style being in +reality the elongated tubular apex of a membranous envelope, and the +included body being evidently analogous to that in other genera of +Coniferae. + +(*Footnote. Dict. Class. d' Hist. Nat. tome 4 page 395 et tome 5 page +216.) + +(**Footnote. Dict. Class. d'Hist. Nat. tome 6 page 208.) + +To the earliest of the opinions here quoted, that which considers the +female flower of Coniferae and Cycadeae as a naked pistillum, there are +two principal objections. The first of these arises from the perforation +of the pistillum, and the exposure of that point of the ovulum where the +embryo is formed to the direct action of the pollen; the second from the +too great simplicity of structure of the supposed ovulum, which, I have +shown, accords better with that of the nucleus as existing in ordinary +cases. + +To the opinions of MM. Richard and Mirbel, the first objection does not +apply, but the second acquires such additional weight, as to render those +opinions much less probable, it seems to me, than that which I have +endeavoured to support. + +In supposing the correctness of this opinion to be admitted, a question +connected with it, and of some importance, would still remain, namely, +whether in Cycadeae and Coniferae the ovula are produced on an ovarium of +reduced functions and altered appearance, or on a rachis or receptacle. +In other words, in employing the language of an hypothesis, which, with +some alterations, I have elsewhere attempted to explain and defend, +respecting the formation of the sexual organs in Phaenogamous plants,* +whether the ovula in these two families originate in a modified leaf, or +proceed directly from the stem. + +(*Footnote. Linnean Society Transactions volume 13 page 211.) + +Were I to adopt the former supposition, or that best agreeing with the +hypothesis in question, I should certainly apply it, in the first place, +to Cycas, in which the female spadix bears so striking a resemblance to a +partially altered frond or leaf, producing marginal ovula in one part, +and in another being divided into segments, in some cases nearly +resembling those of the ordinary frond. + +But the analogy of the female spadix of Cycas to that of Zamia is +sufficiently obvious; and from the spadix of Zamia to the fruit-bearing +squama of Coniferae, strictly so called, namely, of Agathis or Dammara, +Cunninghamia, Pinus, and even Araucaria, the transition is not difficult. +This view is applicable, though less manifestly, also to Cupressinae; and +might even be extended to Podocarpus and Dacrydium. But the structure of +these two genera admits likewise of another explanation, to which I have +already adverted. + +If, however, the ovula in Cycadeae and Coniferae be really produced on +the surface of an ovarium, it might, perhaps, though not necessarily, be +expected that their male flowers should differ from those of all other +phaenogamous plants, and in this difference exhibit some analogy to the +structure of the female flower. But in Cycadeae, at least, and especially +in Zamia, the resemblance between the male and female spadices is so +great, that if the female be analogous to an ovarium, the partial male +spadix must be considered as a single anthera, producing on its surface +either naked grains of pollen, or pollen subdivided into masses, each +furnished with its proper membrane. + +Both these views may at present, perhaps, appear equally paradoxical; yet +the former was entertained by Linnaeus, who expresses himself on the +subject in the following terms, Pulvis floridus in Cycade minime pro +Antheris agnoscendus est sed pro nudo polline, quod unusquisque qui +unquam pollen antherarum in plantis examinavit fatebitur.* That this +opinion, so confidently held by Linnaeus, was never adopted by any other +botanist, seems in part to have arisen from his having extended it to +dorsiferous Ferns. Limited to Cycadeae, however, it does not appear to me +so very improbable, as to deserve to be rejected without examination. It +receives, at least, some support from the separation, in several cases, +especially in the American Zamiae, of the grains into two distinct, and +sometimes nearly marginal, masses, representing, as it may be supposed, +the lobes of an anthera; and also from their approximation in definite +numbers, generally in fours, analogous to the quaternary union of the +grains of pollen, not unfrequent in the antherae of several other +families of plants. The great size of the supposed grains of pollen, with +the thickening and regular bursting of their membrane, may be said to be +circumstances obviously connected with their production and persistence +on the surface of an anthera, distant from the female flower; and with +this economy, a corresponding enlargement of the contained particles or +fovilla might also be expected. On examining these particles, however, I +find them not only equal in size to the grains of pollen of many +antherae, but, being elliptical and marked on one side with a +longitudinal furrow, they have that form which is one of the most common +in the simple pollen of phaenogamous plants. To suppose, therefore, +merely on the grounds already stated, that these particles are analogous +to the fovilla, and the containing organs to the grains of pollen in +antherae of the usual structure, would be entirely gratuitous. It is, at +the same time, deserving of remark, that were this view adopted on more +satisfactory grounds, a corresponding development might then be said to +exist in the essential parts of the male and female organs. The increased +development in the ovulum would not consist so much in the unusual form +and thickening of the coat, a part of secondary importance, and whose +nature is disputed, as in the state of the nucleus of the seed, +respecting which there is no difference of opinion; and where the +plurality of embryos, or at least the existence and regular arrangement +of the cells in which they are formed, is the uniform structure in the +family. + +(*Footnote. Mem. de l'Acad. des Scien. de Paris 1775 page 518.) + +The second view suggested, in which the anthera in Cycadeae is considered +as producing on its surface an indefinite number of pollen masses, each +enclosed in its proper membrane, would derive its only support from a few +remote analogies: as from those antherae, whose loculi are sub-divided +into a definite, or more rarely an indefinite, number of cells, and +especially from the structure of the stamina of Viscum album. + +I may remark, that the opinion of M. Richard,* who considers these +grains, or masses, as unilocular antherae, each of which constitutes a +male flower, seems to be attended with nearly equal difficulties. + +(*Footnote. Dict. Class. d'Hist. Nat. tome 5 page 216.) + +The analogy between the male and female organs in Coniferae, the +existence of an open ovarium being assumed, is at first sight more +apparent than in Cycadeae. In Coniferae, however, the pollen is certainly +not naked, but is enclosed in a membrane similar to the lobe of an +ordinary anthera. And in those genera in which each squama of the amentum +produces two marginal lobes only, as Pinus, Podocarpus, Dacrydium, +Salisburia, and Phyllocladus, it nearly resembles the more general form +of the antherae in other Phaenogamous plants. But the difficulty occurs +in those genera which have an increased number of lobes on each squama, +as Agathis and Araucaria, where their number is considerable and +apparently indefinite, and more particularly still in Cunninghamia, or +Belis,* in which the lobes, though only three in number, agree in this +respect, as well as in insertion and direction, with the ovula. The +supposition, that in such cases all the lobes of each squama are cells of +one and the same anthera, receives but little support either from the +origin and arrangement of the lobes themselves, or from the structure of +other phaenogamous plants: the only cases of apparent, though doubtful, +analogy that I can at present recollect occurring in Aphyteia, and +perhaps in some Cucurbitaceae. + +(*Footnote. In communicating specimens of this plant to the late M. +Richard, for his intended monograph of Coniferae, I added some remarks on +its structure, agreeing with those here made. I at the same time +requested that, if he objected to Mr. Salisbury's Belis as liable to be +confounded with Bellis, the genus might be named Cunninghamia, to +commemorate the merits of Mr. James Cunningham, an excellent observer in +his time, by whom this plant was discovered; and in honour of Mr. Allan +Cunningham, the very deserving botanist who accompanied Mr. Oxley in his +first expedition into the interior of New South Wales, and Captain King +in all his voyages of survey of the Coasts of New Holland.) + +That part of my subject, therefore, which relates to the analogy between +the male and female flowers in Cycadeae and Coniferae, I consider the +least satisfactory, both in regard to the immediate question of the +existence of an anomalous ovarium in these families, and to the +hypothesis repeatedly referred to, of the origin of the sexual organs of +all phaenogamous plants. + +In concluding this digression, I have to express my regret that it should +have so far exceeded the limits proper for its introduction into the +present work. In giving an account, however, of the genus of plants to +which it is annexed, I had to describe a structure, of whose nature and +importance it was necessary I should show myself aware; and circumstances +have occurred while I was engaged in preparing this account, which +determined me to enter much more fully into the subject than I had +originally intended. + +... + + +APPENDIX C. + +AN ACCOUNT OF SOME GEOLOGICAL SPECIMENS, COLLECTED BY CAPTAIN P.P. KING, +IN HIS SURVEY OF THE COASTS OF AUSTRALIA, AND BY ROBERT BROWN, ESQUIRE, +ON THE SHORES OF THE GULF OF CARPENTARIA, DURING THE VOYAGE OF CAPTAIN +FLINDERS. + +BY WILLIAM HENRY FITTON, M.D., F.R.S., V.P.G.S. + +[READ BEFORE THE GEOLOGICAL SOCIETY OF LONDON, 4TH NOVEMBER, 1825.] + +The following enumeration of specimens from the coasts of Australia, +commences, with the survey of Captain King, on the eastern shore, about +the latitude of twenty-two degrees, proceeding northward and westward: +and as the shores of the Gulf of Carpentaria, previously surveyed by +Captain Flinders, were passed over by Captain King, Mr. Brown, who +accompanied the former, has been so good as to allow the specimens +collected by himself in that part of New Holland, to supply the chasm +which would otherwise have existed in the series. Part of the west and +north-western coast, examined by Captain King, having been previously +visited by the French voyagers, under Captain Baudin, I was desirous of +obtaining such information as could be derived from the specimens +collected during that expedition, and now remaining at Paris; although I +was aware that the premature death of the principal mineralogist, and +other unfavourable circumstances, had probably diminished their value:* +But the collection from New Holland, at the school of Mines, with a list +of which I have been favoured through the kindness of Mr. Brochant de +Villiers, relates principally to Van Diemen's Land; and that of the +Jardin du Roi, which Mr. Constant Prevost has obliged me with an account +of, does not afford the information I had hoped for. I have availed +myself of the notices relating to Physical Geography and Geology, which +are dispersed through the published accounts of Captain Flinders',** and +Baudin's Voyages;*** and these, with the collections above alluded to, +form, I believe, the only sources of information at present existing in +Europe, respecting the geological structure and productions of the north +and western coasts of Australia. + +(*Footnote. M. Depuch, the mineralogist, died during the progress of the +voyage, in 1803; and, unfortunately, none of his manuscripts were +preserved. M. Peron, the zoologist, after publishing, in 1807, the first +volume of the account of the expedition, died in 1810, before the +appearance of the second volume. Voyage etc. 1 page 417, 418; and 2 page +163.) + +(**Footnote. A Voyage to Terra Australis, etc., in the years 1801, 1802, +and 1803, by Matthew Flinders, Commander of the Investigator. Two volumes +quarto with an atlas folio; London 1814.) + +(***Footnote. Voyage de Decouverte aux Terres Australes etc. Tome 1 +redige par M. F. Peron, naturaliste de l'Expedition, Paris 1807. Tome 2 +redige par M. Peron et M. L. Freycinet 1816. A third volume of this work, +under the title of Navigation et Geographie, was published by Capt. +Freycinet in 1815. It contains a brief and clear account of the +proceedings of the expedition; and affords some particulars connected +with the physical geography of the places described, which are not to be +found in the other volumes.) + +In order to avoid the interruption which would be occasioned by detail, I +shall prefix to the list of specimens in Captain King's and Mr. Brown's +collections, a general sketch of the coast from whence they come, +deduced, principally, from the large charts,* and from the narratives of +Captains Flinders and King, with a summary of the geological information +derived from the specimens. But I have thought it necessary to subjoin a +more detailed list of the specimens themselves; on account of the great +distance from each other of many of the places where they were found, and +of the general interest attached to the productions of a country so very +remote, of which the greater part is not likely to be often visited by +geologists. The situation of such of the places mentioned, as are not to +be found in the reduced chart annexed to the present publication, will be +sufficiently indicated by the names of the adjacent places. + +(*Footnote. These charts have been published by the Admiralty for general +sale.) + +GENERAL SKETCH OF THE COAST. + +The North-eastern coast of New South Wales, from the latitude of about 28 +degrees, has a direction from south-east to north-west; and ranges of +mountains are visible from the sea, with little interruption, as far +north as Cape Weymouth, between the latitude of 12 and 13 degrees. From +within Cape Palmerston, west of the Northumberland Islands, near the +point where Captain King began his surveys, a high and rocky range, of +very irregular outline, and apparently composed of primitive rocks, is +continued for more than one hundred and fifty miles, without any break; +and after a remarkable opening, about the latitude of 21 degrees, is +again resumed. Several of the summits, visible from the sea, in the front +of this range, are of considerable elevation: Mount Dryander, on the +promontory which terminates in Cape Gloucester, being more than four +thousand five hundred feet high. Mount Eliot, with a peaked summit, a +little to the south of Cape Cleveland, is visible at twenty-five leagues +distance; and Mount Hinchinbrook, immediately upon the shore, south of +Rockingham Bay, is more than two thousand feet high. From the south of +Cape Grafton to Cape Tribulation, precipitous hills, bordered by low +land, form the coast; but the latter Cape itself consists of a lofty +group, with several peaks, the highest of which is visible from the sea +at twenty leagues. The heights from thence towards the north decline +gradually, as the mountainous ranges approach the shore, which they join +at Cape Weymouth, about latitude 12 degrees; and from that point +northward, to Cape York, the land in general is comparatively low, nor do +any detached points of considerable elevation appear there. But about +midway between Cape Grenville and Cape York, on the mainland south-west +of Cairncross Island, a flat summit called Pudding-Pan Hill is +conspicuous; and its shape, which differs from that of the hills on the +east coast in general, remarkably resembles that of the mountains of the +north and west coasts, to which names expressing their form have been +applied.* + +(*Footnote. Jane's Table-Land, south-east of Princess Charlotte's Bay +(about latitude 14 degrees 30 minutes) and Mount Adolphus, in one of the +islands (about latitude 10 degrees 40 minutes) off Cape York, have also +flat summits. King manuscripts.) + +The line of the coast above described retires at a point which +corresponds with the decline of its level; and immediately on the north +of Cape Melville is thrown back to the west; so that the high land about +that Cape stands out like a shoulder, more than forty miles beyond the +coastline between Princess Charlotte's Bay and the north-eastern point of +Australia. + +The land near Cape York is not more than four or five hundred feet high, +and the islands off that point are nearly of the same elevation. + +The bottom of several of the bays, on the eastern coast, not having been +explored, it is still probable that rivers, or considerable mountain +streams, may exist there. + +Along this eastern line of shore, granite has been found throughout a +space of nearly five hundred miles; at Cape Cleveland; Cape Grafton; +Endeavour River; Lizard Island; and at Clack's Island, on the north-west +of the rocky mass which forms Cape Melville. And rocks of the trap +formation have been obtained in three detached points among the islands +off the shore; in the Percy Isles, about latitude 21 degrees 40 minutes; +Sunday Island, north of Cape Grenville, about latitude 12 degrees; and in +Good's Island, on the north-west of Cape York, latitude 10 degrees 34 +minutes. + +The Gulf of Carpentaria having been fully examined by Captain Flinders, +was not visited by Captain King; but the following account has been +deduced from the voyage and charts of the former, combined with the +specimens collected by Mr. Brown, who has also favoured me with an +extract from the notes taken by himself on that part of the coast. + +The land, on the east and south of the Gulf of Carpentaria, is so low, +that for a space of nearly six hundred miles--from Endeavour Strait to a +range of hills on the mainland, west of Wellesley Islands, at the bottom +of the gulf--no part of the coast is higher than a ship's masthead.* Some +of the land in Wellesley islands is higher than the main; but the largest +island is, probably, not more than one hundred and fifty feet in +height;** and low-wooded hills occur on the mainland, from thence to Sir +Edward Pellew's group. The rock observed on the shore at Coen River, the +only point on the eastern side of the Gulf where Captain Flinders landed, +was calcareous sandstone of recent concretional formation. + +(*Footnote. Flinders Charts Plate 14.) + +(**Footnote. Flinders Volume 2 page 158.) + +In Sweer's Island, one of Wellesley's Isles, a hill of about fifty or +sixty feet in height was covered with a sandy calcareous stone, having +the appearance of concretions rising irregularly about a foot above the +general surface, without any distinct ramifications. The specimens from +this place have evidently the structure of stalactites, which seem to +have been formed in sand; and the reddish carbonate of lime, by which the +sand has been agglutinated, is of the same character with that of the +west coast, where a similar concreted limestone occurs in great +abundance. + +The western shore of the Gulf of Carpentaria is somewhat higher, and from +Limmen's Bight to the latitude of Groote Eylandt, is lined by a range of +low hills. On the north of the latter place, the coast becomes irregular +and broken; the base of the country apparently consisting of primitive +rocks, and the upper part of the hills of a reddish sandstone; some of +the specimens of which are identical with that which occurs at Goulburn +and Sims Islands on the north coast, and is very widely distributed on +the north-west. The shore at the bottom of Melville Bay is stated by +Captain Flinders to consist of low cliffs of pipe-clay, for a space of +about eight miles in extent from east to west; and similar cliffs of +pipe-clay are described as occurring at Goulburn Islands (see the plate, +volume 1) and at Lethbridge Bay, on the north of Melville Island: both of +which places are considerably to the west of the Gulf of Carpentaria. + +Morgan's Island, a small islet in Blue-Mud Bay, on the north-west of +Groote Eylandt, is composed of clink-stone; and other rocks of the +trap-formation occur in several places on this coast. + +The north of Blue-Mud Bay has furnished also specimens of ancient +sandstone; with columnar rocks, probably of clink-stone. Round Hill, near +Point Grindall, a promontory on the north of Morgan's Island, is +composed, at the base, of granite; and Mount Caledon, on the west side of +Caledon Bay, seems likewise to consist of that rock, as does also +Melville Island. This part of the coast has afforded the ferruginous +oxide of manganese: and brown hematite is found hereabouts in +considerable quantity, on the shore at the base of the cliffs; forming +the cement of a breccia, which contains fragments of sandstone, and in +which the ferruginous matter appears to be of very recent production; +resembling, perhaps, the hematite observed at Edinburgh by Professor +Jameson, around cast-iron pipes which had lain for some time in sand.* + +(*Footnote. Edinburgh Philosophical Journal, July 1825 page 193.) + +The general range of the coast, it will be observed, from Limmen's Bight +to Cape Arnhem, is from south-west to north-east; and three conspicuous +ranges of islands on the north-western entrance of the Gulf of +Carpentaria, the appearance of which is so remarkable as to have +attracted the attention of Captain Flinders,* have the same general +direction: a fact which is probably not unconnected with the general +structure of the country. The prevailing rock in all these islands +appears to be sandstone. + +(Flinders Volume 2 page 158. See hereafter.) + +The line of the main coast from Point Dale to the bottom of Castlereagh +Bay, where Captain King's survey was resumed, has also a direction from +south-west to north-east, parallel to that of the ranges of islands just +mentioned. The low land near the north coast in Castlereagh Bay, and from +thence to Goulburn Islands, is intersected by one of the few rivers yet +discovered in this part of Australia, a tortuous and shallow stream, +named Liverpool River, which has been traced inland to about forty miles +from the coast, through a country not more than three feet in general +elevation above high-water mark; the banks being low and muddy, and +thickly wooded: And this description is applicable also to the Alligator +Rivers on the south-east of Van Diemen's Gulf, and to the surrounding +country. The outline of the Wellington Hills, however, on the mainland +between the Liverpool and Alligator Rivers, is jagged and irregular; this +range being thus remarkably contrasted with the flat summits which appear +to be very numerous on the north-western coast. + +The specimens from Goulburn Islands consist of reddish sandstone, not to +be distinguished from that which occurs beneath the coal formation in +England. On the west of these islands the coast is more broken, and the +outline is irregular: but the elevation is inconsiderable; the general +height in Cobourg Peninsula not being above one hundred and fifty feet +above the sea, and that of the hills not more than from three to four +hundred feet. + +On this part of the coast, several hills are remarkable for the flatness +of their tops; and the general outline of many of the islands, as seen on +the horizon, is very striking and peculiar. Thus Mount Bedwell and Mount +Roe, on the south of Cobourg Peninsula; Luxmoore Head, at the west end of +Melville Island; the Barthelemy Hills, south of Cape Ford; Mount Goodwin, +south of Port Keats; Mount Cockburn, and several of the hills adjacent to +Cambridge Gulf, the names given to which during the progress of the +survey sufficiently indicate their form, as House-roofed, Bastion, +Flat-top, and Square-top Hills; Mount Casuarina, about forty miles +north-west of Cambridge Gulf; a hill near Cape Voltaire; Steep-Head, Port +Warrender; and several of the islands off that port, York Sound, and +Prince Regent's River; Cape Cuvier, about latitude 24 degrees; and, still +further south, the whole of Moresby's flat-topped Range, are all +distinguished by their linear and nearly horizontal outlines: and except +in a few instances, as Mount Cockburn, Steep-Head, Mounts Trafalgar and +Waterloo (which look more like hills of floetz-trap) they have very much +the aspect of the summits in the coal formation.* + +(*Footnote. Captain King, however, has informed me, that in some of these +cases, the shape of the hill is really that of a roof, or hayrick; the +transverse section being angular, and the horizontal top an edge.) + +Sketch 1 of some of the islands off Admiralty Gulf (looking southward +from the north-east end of Cassini Island, about latitude 13 degrees 50 +minutes, East longitude 125 degrees 50 minutes) has some resemblance to +one of the views in Peron's Atlas (plate 6 figure 7): and the outline of +the Iles Forbin (plate 8 figure 5, of the same series) also exhibits +remarkably the peculiar form represented in several of Captain King's +drawings (Sketch 2). + +The red colour of the cliffs on the north-west and west coasts, is also +an appearance which is frequently noticed on the sketches taken by +Captain King and his officers. This is conspicuous in the neighbourhood +of Cape Croker; at Darch Island and Palm Bay; at Point Annesley and Point +Coombe in Mountnorris Bay; in the land about Cape Van Diemen, and on the +north-west of Bathurst Island. The cliffs on Roe's River (Prince +Frederic's Harbour) as might have been expected from the specimens, are +described as of a reddish colour; Cape Leveque is of the same hue; and +the northern limit of Shark's Bay, Cape Cuvier of the French, latitude 24 +degrees 13 minutes, which is like an enormous bastion, may be +distinguished at a considerable distance by its full red colour.* + +(*Footnote. Freycinet page 195.) + +It is on the bank of the channel which separates Bathurst and Melville +Islands, near the north-western extremity of New Holland, that a new +colony has recently been established: (see Captain King's Narrative +volume 2.) A permanent station under the superintendence of a British +officer, in a country so very little known, and in a situation so remote +from any other English settlement, affords an opportunity of collecting +objects of natural history, and of illustrating various points of great +interest to physical geography and meteorology, which it is to be hoped +will not be neglected. And as a very instructive collection, for the +general purposes of geology, can readily be obtained in such situations, +by attending to a few precautions, I have thought that some brief +directions on this subject would not be out of place in the present +publication; and have subjoined them to the list of specimens at the +close of this paper.* + +(*Footnote. See hereafter.) + +In the vicinity of Cambridge Gulf, Captain King states, the character of +the country is entirely changed; and irregular ranges of detached rocky +hills composed of sandstone, rising abruptly from extensive plains of low +level land, supersede the low and woody coast, that occupies almost +uninterruptedly the space between this inlet and Cape Wessel, a distance +of more than six hundred miles. Cambridge Gulf, which is nothing more +than a swampy arm of the sea, extends to about eighty miles inland, in a +southern direction: and all the specimens from its vicinity precisely +resemble the older sandstones of the confines of England and Wales.* The +View (volume 1 plate) represents in the distance Mount Cockburn, at the +head of Cambridge Gulf; the flat rocky top of which was supposed to +consist of sandstone, but has also the aspect of the trap-formation. The +strata in Lacrosse Island, at the entrance of the Gulf, rise toward the +north-west, at an angle of about 30 degrees with the horizon: their +direction consequently being from north-east to south-west. + +(*Footnote. I use the term Old Red Sand Stone, in the acceptation of +Messrs. Buckland and Conybeare, Observations on the South Western Coal +District of England. Geological Transactions Second Series volume 1. +Captain King's specimens from Lacrosse Island are not to be distinguished +from the slaty strata of that formation, in the banks of the Avon, about +two miles below Clifton.) + +From hence to Cape Londonderry, towards the south, is an uniform coast of +moderate elevation; and from that point to Cape Leveque, although the +outline may be in a general view considered as ranging from north-east to +south-west,* the coast is remarkably indented, and the adjoining sea +irregularly studded with very numerous islands. The specimens from this +tract consist almost entirely of sandstone, resembling that of Cambridge +Gulf, Goulburn Island, and the Gulf of Carpentaria; with which the +trap-formation appears to be associated. + +(*Footnote. The large chart Sheet 5 best shows the general range of the +shore, from the islands filling up the inlets.) + +York Sound, one of the principal inlets on this part of the coast, is +bounded by precipitous rocks, from one to two hundred feet in height; and +some conical rocky peaks, which not improbably consist of quartz-rock, +were noticed on the eastern side of the entrance. An unpublished sketch, +by Captain King, shows that the banks of Hunter's River, one of the +branches of York Sound, at seven or eight miles from its opening, are +composed of sandstone, in beds of great regularity; and this place is +also remarkable for a copious spring of fresh water, one of the rarest +phenomena of these thirsty and inhospitable shores.* + +(*Footnote. Narrative 1.) + +The most considerable inlet, however, which has yet been discovered in +this quarter of Australia, is Prince Regent's River, about thirty miles +to the south-west of York Sound, the course of which is almost +rectilinear for about fifty miles in a south-eastern direction; a fact +which will probably be found to be connected with the geological +structure of the country. The general character of the banks, which are +lofty and abrupt, is precisely the same with that of the rivers falling +into York Sound; and the level of the country does not appear to be +higher in the interior than near the coast. The banks are from two to +four hundred feet in height, and consist of close-grained siliceous +sandstone, of a reddish hue;* and the view (Plate above) shows that the +beds are nearly horizontal, and very regularly disposed; the cascade +there represented being about one hundred and sixty feet in height, and +the beds from six to twelve feet in thickness. Two conspicuous hills, +which Captain King has named Mounts Trafalgar and Waterloo, on the +north-east of Prince-Regent's River, not far from its entrance, are +remarkable for cap-like summits, much resembling those which characterize +the trap formation. (Sketch 3.) + +(*Footnote. Narrative 1 and 2.) + +The coast on the south of this remarkable river, to Cape Leveque, has not +yet been thoroughly examined; but it appears from Captain King's Chart +(Number 5) to be intersected by several inlets of considerable size, to +trace which to their termination is still a point of great interest in +the physical geography of New Holland. The space thus left to be +explored, from the Champagny Isles to Cape Leveque, corresponds to more +than one hundred miles in a direct line; within which extent nothing but +islands and detached portions of land have yet been observed. One large +inlet especially, on the south-east of Cape Leveque, appears to afford +considerable promise of a river; and the rise of the tide within the +Buccaneer's Archipelago, where there is another unexplored opening, is no +less than thirty-seven feet. + +The outline of the coast about Cape Leveque itself is low, waving, and +rounded; and the hue for which the cliffs are remarkable in so many parts +of the coast to the north, is also observable here, the colour of the +rocks at Point Coulomb being of a deep red: but on the south of the high +ground near that Point, the rugged stony cliffs are succeeded by a long +tract, which to the French voyagers (for it was not examined by Captain +King) appeared to consist of low and sandy land, fronted by extensive +shoals. It has hitherto been seen, however, only at a distance; so that a +space of more than three hundred miles, from Point Gantheaume nearly to +Cape Lambert, still remains to be accurately surveyed. + +Depuch Island, east of Dampier's Archipelago, about latitude 20 degrees +30 minutes, is described by the French naturalists as consisting in a +great measure of columnar rocks, which they supposed to be VOLCANIC; and +they found reason to believe that the adjoining continent was of the same +materials.* It is not improbable, however, that this term was applied to +columns belonging to the trap formation, since no burning mountain has +been any where observed on the coast of New Holland: nor do the drawings +of Depuch Island, made on board Captain King's vessel, give reason to +suppose that it is at present eruptive. Captain King's specimens from +Malus Island, in Dampier's Archipelago (sixty miles farther west) consist +of greenstone and amygdaloid. + +(*Footnote. Peron volume 1 page 130.) + +The coast is again broken and rugged about Dampier's Archipelago, +latitude 20 degrees 30 minutes; and on the south of Cape Preston, in +latitude 21 degrees, is an opening of about fifteen miles in width, +between rocky hills, which has not been explored. From thence to the +bottom of Exmouth Gulf, more than one hundred and fifty miles, the coast +is low and sandy, and does not exhibit any prominences. The west coast of +Exmouth Gulf itself is formed by a promontory of level land, terminating +in the North-west Cape; and from thence to the south-west, as far as Cape +Cuvier, the general height of the coast is from four to five hundred +feet; nor are any mountains visible over the coast range. + +Several portions of the shore between Shark's Bay and Cape Naturaliste +have been described in the account of Commodore Baudin's Expedition; but +some parts still remain to be surveyed. From the specimens collected by +Captain King and the French descriptions, it appears that the islands on +the west of Shark's Bay abound in a concretional calcareous rock of very +recent formation, similar to what is found on the shore in several other +parts of New Holland, especially in the neighbourhood of King George's +Sound; and which is abundant also on the coast of the West Indian +Islands, and of the Mediterranean. Captain King's specimens of this +production are from Dirk Hartog's and Rottnest Islands; and M. Peron +states that the upper parts of Bernier and Dorre Islands are composed of +a rock of the same nature. This part of the coast is covered in various +places with extensive dunes of sand; but the nature of the base, on which +both these and the calcareous formation repose, has not been ascertained. + +The general direction of the rocky shore, from North-west Cape to Dirk +Hartog's Island, is from the east of north to the west of south. On the +south of the latter place the land turns towards the east. High, rocky +and reddish cliffs have been seen indistinctly about latitude 27 degrees; +and a coast of the same aspect has been surveyed, from Red Point, about +latitude 28 degrees, for more than eighty miles to the south-west. The +hills called Moresby's flat-topped Range, of which Mount Fairfax, +latitude 28 degrees 45 minutes, is the highest point, occupy a space of +more than fifty miles from north to south. + +Rottnest Island and its vicinity, latitude 32 degrees, contains in +abundance the calcareous concretions already mentioned; which seem there +to consist in a great measure of the remains of recent shells, in +considerable variety. The islands of this part of the shore have been +described by MM. Peron and Freycinet;* and the coast to the south, down +to Cape Leeuwin, the south-western extremity of New Holland, having been +sufficiently examined by the French voyagers, was not surveyed by Captain +King. + +(*Footnote. Peron volume 2 page 168 etc.) + +Swan River (Riviere des Cygnes) upon this part of the coast, latitude 31 +degrees 25 minutes to 32 degrees, was examined by the French expedition, +to the distance of about twenty leagues from its mouth; and found still +to contain salt water. The rock in its neighbourhood consisted altogether +of sandy and calcareous incrustations, in horizontal beds, enclosing, it +is stated, shells, and the roots and even trunks of trees. Between this +river and Cape Peron, a "great bay" was left unexplored.* + +(*Footnote. Peron volume 1 page 179. Freycinet page 5. 170.) + +The prominent mass of land, which stands out from the main, between Cape +Naturaliste and Cape Leeuwin, and runs nearly on the meridian for more +than fifty miles, seems to have a base of granite, which, at Cape +Naturaliste, is said to be stratified.* The same rock also occurs, among +Captain King's specimens, from Bald-head in King George's Sound; but +nearly on the summit of that hill, which is about five hundred feet high, +were Found the ramified calcareous concretions, erroneously considered as +corals by Vancouver and others;** but which appear, from Captain King's +specimens, to be nothing more than a variety of the recent limestone so +abundant throughout these shores. + +(*Footnote. Peron volume 1 page 69.) + +(**Footnote. Vancouver 1 49. D'Entrecasteaux 2 175. Freycinet 105. +Flinders 1 63. See the detailed descriptions hereafter; and Captain +King's Narrative volume 1.) + +The south coast, and the southern portion of the east coast of Australia, +which were surveyed by Captain Flinders, are described in the account of +his voyage, and do not come within the object of the present paper. + +... + + +GEOLOGICAL REMARKS. + +1. The rocks, of which specimens occur in the collections of Captain King +and Mr. Brown, are the following: + +Granite: Cape Cleveland; C. Grafton; Endeavour River; Lizard Island; +Round Hill, near C. Grindall; Mount Caledon; Island near C. Arnhem; +Melville Bay; Bald-head, King George's Sound. + +Various Slaty Rocks: +Mica-State: Mallison's I. +Talc-State: Endeavour River. +Slaty Clay: Inglis' I., Clack I., Percy I. +Hornblende Rock ?: Pobassoo's Island; Halfway Bay, Prince Regent's River. + +Granular Quartz: Endeavour River; Montagu Sound, North-west Coast. +Epidote: C. Clinton ?; Port Warrender; Careening Bay. + +Quartzose Conglomerates, and ancient Sandstones: Rodd's Bay; Islands of +the north and north-west coasts; Cambridge Gulf; York Sound; Prince +Regent's River. + +Pipe-clay: Melville Bay; Goulburn I.; Lethbridge Bay. + +ROCKS OF THE TRAP FORMATION. + +Serpentine: Port Macquarie; Percy Isles. + +Sienite: Rodd's Bay. + +Porphyry: C. Cleveland. + +Porphyritic Conglomerate: C. Clinton, Percy I., Good's I. + +Compact Felspar: Percy I., Repulse Bay, Sunday Island. + +Greenstone: Vansittart Bay, Bat I., Careening Bay, Malus I. + +Clinkstone: Morgan's I., Pobassoo's I. + +Amygdaloid, with Chalcedony: Port Warrender; Half-way Bay; Bat Island; +Malus I. + +Wacke ?: Bat Island. + +... + +Recent calcareous Breccia: Sweer's Island, N. coast. Dirk Hartog's and +Rottnest Islands, etc., West coast. King George's Sound, South coast. + +The only information that has been published respecting the geology of +New Holland, besides what is contained in the Voyages of Captain Flinders +and Commodore Baudin, is a slight notice by Professor Buckland of some +specimens collected during Mr. Oxley's Expedition to the River +Macquarie,* in 1818; and a brief outline of a paper by the Reverend +Archdeacon Scott, entitled A Sketch of the Geology of New South Wales and +Van Diemen's Land, which has been read before the Geological Society.** +On these authorities, the following may be added to the preceding list of +rocks: + +Limestone, resembling in the character of its organic remains the +mountain limestone or England: Interior of New Holland, near the east +coast; Van Diemen's Land (Buckland; Prevost manuscripts; Scott). + +The Coal-formation: East coast of New Holland; Van Diemen's Land. +(Buckland-Scott.) + +Indications of the new red-Sandstone (Red-Marl) afforded by the +occurrence of Salt: Van Diemen's Land. (Scott.) + +Oolite: Van Diemen's Land. (Scott.) + +(*Footnote. Geological Transactions volume 5 page 480.) + +(**Footnote. Ann. of Phil. June 1824. I am informed that Mr. Von Buch +also has published a paper on the rocks of New Holland; but have not been +so fortunate as to meet with it. + +Since this paper has been at the press, a Report presented to the Academy +of Sciences at Paris, on the Voyage of Discovery of M. Duperrey, +performed during the years 1822 to 1825, has been published; from whence +I have subjoined an extract, in order to complete the catalogue of the +rocks of Australia, according to the present state of our information. + +Les echantillons recueillis tant dans les contrees voisines du Port +Jackson, que dans les Montagnes-Bleues, augmentent beaucoup nos +connoissances sur ces parties de la Nouvelle Hollande. Les echantillons, +au nombre de soixante-dix, nous offrent, 1. Les granites, les +syenites-quartziferes, et les pegmatites (granites graphiques) qui +cunstituent le second plan des Muntagnes-Bleues. 2. Les gres ferrugineux, +et renfermant d'abondantes paillettes de fer oligiste, qui couvrent non +seulement une vaste etendue de pays pres des cotes, mais encore le +premier plan des Montagnes-Bleues; et 3. Le lignite stratiforme qu'on +exploite au Mont-Yorck, a 1000 pieds au-dessus du niveau de la mer, et +dont la presence ajoute aux motifs qui portent a penser que les gres +ferrugineux de ces contrees appartiennent au systeme des terrains +tertiaires. + +Vingt-sept echantillons ramasses a la terre de Van Diemen, dans les +environs du port Dalrymple, et pres du Cap Barren, indiquent, 1. Des +terrains de pegmatite, et de serpentine. 2. Des terrains intermediaires +coquilliers, formes du grauwacke-schistoide, et de pierre calcaire. 3. +Des terrains tres-recens, composes d'argile sablonneuse et ferrugineuse, +avec geodes de fer hydrate, et du bois fossile, a differens etats. On +distingue en outre des belles topazes blanches ou bleuatres, parmi les +galets quartzeux, qui ont ete recueillis au Cap Barren: Bulletin des +Sciences Naturelles, Octobre 1825 page 189.) + +2. The specimens of Captain King's and Mr. Brown's collections, without +any exception, agree with those of the same denominations from other +parts of the world; and the resemblance is, in some instances, very +remarkable: The sandstones of the west and north-west of New Holland are +so like those of the west of England, and of Wales, that the specimens +from the two countries can scarcely be distinguished from each other; the +arenaceous cement in the calcareous breccia of the west coast is +precisely the same with that of Sicily; and the jasper, chalcedony, and +green quartz approaching to heliotrope, from the entrance of Prince +Regent's River, resemble those of the Tyrol, both in their characters and +association. The Epidote of Port Warrender and Careening Bay, affords an +additional proof of the general distribution of that mineral; which, +though perhaps it may not constitute large masses, seems to be of more +frequent occurrence as a component of rocks than has hitherto been +supposed.* The mineral itself, both crystallized and compact, the latter +in the form of veins traversing sienitic rocks, occurs, in Mr. +Greenough's cabinet alone, from Malvern, North Wales, Ireland, France, +and Upper Saxony. Mr. Koenig has found it extensively in the sienitic +tract of Jersey;** where blocks of a pudding-stone, bearing some +resemblance to the green breccia of Egypt, were found to be composed of +compact epidote, including very large pebbles of a porphyritic rock, +which itself contains a considerable proportion of this substance. And +Mr. Greenough has recently received, among specimens sent home by Mr. J. +Burton, junior, a mass of compact epidote, with quartz and felspar, from +Dokhan, in the desert between the Red Sea and the Nile. When New Holland +is added to these localities, it will appear that few minerals are more +widely diffused. + +(*Footnote. See Cleaveland's Mineralogy 1816 page 297 to 300.) + +(**Footnote. Plee's Account of Jersey quarto Southampton 1817 page 231 to +276.) + +3. The unpublished sketches, by Captain King and Mr. Roe, of the hills in +sight during the progress of the survey of the Coasts of Australia, +accord in a very striking manner with the geological character of the +shore. Those from the east coast, where the rocks are primitive, +representing strongly marked and irregular outlines of lofty mountains, +and frequently, in the nearer ground, masses of strata highly inclined. +The outlines on the contrary, on the north, north-west, and western +shores, are most commonly uniform, rectilinear, the summits flat, and +diversified only by occasional detached and conical peaks, none of which +are very lofty. + +4. No information has yet been obtained, from any of the collections, +respecting the diluvial deposits of Australia: a class of phenomena which +is of the highest interest, in an island of such vast extent, so very +remote in situation, and of which the existing animals are so different +from those of other parts of the globe. It is remarkable, also, that no +limestone is among the specimens from the northern and western shores, +except that of the recent breccia; and although negative conclusions are +hazardous, it would seem probable, from this circumstance, that limestone +cannot be very abundant or conspicuous at the places visited. No eruptive +mountains, nor any traces of recent volcanic eruption, have yet been +observed in any part of Australia. + +5. The recent calcareous breccia, of which a detailed description will be +found in the subjoined list of specimens, is one of the most remarkable +productions of New Holland: It was found, during the expedition of +Commodore Baudin, to exist throughout a space of no less than twenty-five +degrees of latitude, and an equal extent of longitude, on the southern, +west, and north-west coasts;* and from Mr. Brown's specimens it appears +to occur also on the shores of the Gulf of Carpentaria. The full account +which M. Peron has given of this formation, sufficiently shows its +resemblance to the very recent limestone, full of marine shells, which +abounds on the shores of the Mediterranean, the West India Islands, and +in several other parts of the world: And it is a point of the greatest +interest in geology, to determine, whether any distinct line can really +be drawn, between those concretions, unquestionably of modern formation, +which occur immediately upon the shore; and other calcareous +accumulations, very nearly resembling them, if not identical, both in the +fossils they contain, and in the characters of the cementing substances, +that are found in several countries, at considerable heights above the +sea. + +(*Footnote. Voyage 2 page 168, 169 to 216 etc.) + +Dr. Buckland has described a breccia of modern formation, which occurs +upon the shore at Madagascar, and consists of a firmly-compacted +cream-coloured stone, composed of granular fragments of shells, +agglutinated by a calcareous cement.* The stone of Guadaloupe, containing +the human skeletons, is likewise of the same nature; and its very recent +production cannot be doubted, since it contains fragments of stone axes, +and of pottery.** The cemented shells of Bermuda, described by Captain +Vetch,*** which pass gradually into a compact limestone, differ only in +colour from the Guadaloupe stone; and agree with it, and with the +calcareous breccia of Dirk Hartog's Island, in the gradual melting down +of the cement into the included portions, which is one of the most +remarkable features of that rock.**** A calcareous compound, apparently +of the same kind, has been recently mentioned, as of daily production in +Anastasia Island, on the coast of East Florida;***** and will probably be +found to be of very general occurrence in that quarter of the globe. And +Captain Beaufort's account of the process by which the gravelly beach is +cemented into stone, at Selinti, and several other places on the coast of +Karamania, on the north-east of the Mediterranean,****** accords with M. +Peron's description of the progress from the loose and moveable sands of +the dunes to solid masses of rock.******* In the island of Rhodes, also, +there are hills of pudding-stone, of the same character, considerably +elevated above the sea. And Captain W.H. Smyth, the author of Travels in +Sicily, and of the Survey of the Mediterranean recently published by the +Admiralty, informs me, that he has seen these concretions in Calabria, +and on the coasts of the Adriatic; but still more remarkably in the +narrow strip of recent land (called the Placca) which connects Leucadia, +one of the Ionian Islands, with the continent, and so much resembles a +work of art, that it has been considered as a Roman fabric. The stone +composing this isthmus is so compact, that the best mill-stones in the +Ionian Islands are made from it; but it is in fact nothing more than +gravel and sand cemented by calcareous matter, the accretion of which is +supposed to be rapidly advancing at the present day. + +(*Footnote. Geological Transactions volume 5 page 479.) + +(**Footnote. Linnean Transactions 12 page 53 to 57.) + +(***Footnote. Geological Transactions 2nd Series volume 1 page 172.) + +(****Footnote. Koenig Philosophical Transactions 1814 page 107 etc.) + +(*****Footnote. Bulletin des Sciences Nat. Mars 1825.) + +(******Footnote. Beaufort's Description of the South Coast of Asia Minor +etc. Second edition. London 1818: pages 180 to 184 etc. In the +neighbourhood of Adalia the deposition of calcareous matter from the +water is so copious that an old watercourse had actually crept upwards to +a height of nearly three feet; and the rapidity of the deposition was +such that some specimens were collected on the grass, where the stony +crust was already formed, although the verdure of the leaf was as yet but +imperfectly withered (page 114): a fact which renders less extraordinary +M. Peron's statement that the excrements of kangaroos had been found +concreted by calcareous matter. Peron volume 2 page 116.) + +(*******Footnote. Voyage 2 116.) + +The nearest approach to the concreted sand-rock of Australia, that I have +seen, is in the specimens presented by Dr. Daubeny to the Bristol +Institution, to accompany his excellent paper on the geology of Sicily;* +which prove that the arenaceous breccia of New Holland is very like that +which occupies a great part of the coast, almost entirely around that +island. Some of Dr. Daubeny's specimens from Monte Calogero, above +Sciacca, consist of a breccia, containing angular fragments of splintery +limestone, united by a cement, composed of minute grains of +quartzose-sand disseminated in a calcareous paste, resembling precisely +that of the breccia of Dirk Hartog's Island: and a compound of this kind, +replete with shells, not far, if at all, different from existing species, +fills up the hollows in most of the older rocks of Sicily; and is +described as occurring, in several places, at very considerable heights +above the sea. Thus, near Palermo, it constitutes hills some hundred feet +in height; near Girgenti, all the most elevated spots are crowned with a +loose stratum of the same kind; and the heights near Castro Giovanni, +said to be 2880 feet above the sea, are probably composed of it. But +although the concretions of the interior in Sicily much resemble those of +the shore, it is still doubtful whether the former be not of more ancient +formation; and if they contain nummulites, they would probably be +referred to the epoch of the beds within the Paris basin. + +(*Footnote. Edinburgh Philosophical Journal 1825 pages 116, 117, 118, and +254 to 255.) + +The looser breccia of Monte Pelegrino, in Sicily, is very like the less +compacted fragments of shells from Bermuda, described by Captain Vetch, +and already referred to:* and the rock in both these cases, nearly +approaches to some of the coarser oolites of England. + +(*Footnote. These specimens are in the Museum of the Geological Society.) + +The resemblance pointed out by M. Prevost,* of the specimens of recent +breccia from New Holland, in the museum at the Jardin du Roi, to those of +St. Hospice near Nice, is confirmed by the detail given by Mr. Allan in +his sketch of the geology of that neighbourhood;** in which the perfect +preservation of the shells, and their near approach to those of the +adjoining sea at the present day, are particularly mentioned; and it is +inferred that the date of the deposit which affords them, is anterior to +that of the conglomerate containing the bones of extinct quadrupeds, +likewise found in that country. M. Brongniart also, who examined the +place himself, mentions the recent accumulation which occurs at St. +Hospice, about sixty feet above the present level of the sea, as +containing marine shells in a scarcely fossil state (a peine fossiles) +and he describes the mass in which they occur, as belonging to a +formation still more recent than the upper marine beds of the environs of +Paris.*** + +(*Footnote. Prevost manuscripts. See hereafter.) + +(**Footnote. Transactions of the Royal Society of Edinburgh volume 8 1818 +page 427 etc. See also the previous publications of M. Risso Journal des +Mines tome 34 etc.) + +(***Footnote. Brongniart in Cuvier Ossemens Fossiles; 2nd Edit. volume 2 +page 427.) + +The geological period indicated by these facts, being probably more +recent than the tertiary beds containing nummulites, and generally than +the Paris and London strata, accords with the date which has hitherto +been assigned to the crag beds of Suffolk, Essex, and Norfolk:* but later +observations render doubtful the opinion generally received respecting +the age of these remarkable deposits, and a full and satisfactory account +of them is still a desideratum in the geology of England. When, also, our +imperfect acquaintance with the travertino of Italy, and other very +modern limestones containing freshwater shells, is considered,** the +continual deposition of which, at the present time, cannot be questioned +(though probably the greater part of the masses which consist of them may +belong to an era preceding the actual condition of the earth's surface) +it would seem that the whole subject of these newer calcareous formations +requires elucidation: and, if the inferences connected with them do not +throw considerable doubt upon some opinions at present generally +received, they show, at least, that a great deal more is to be learned +respecting the operations and products of the most recent geological +epochs, than is commonly supposed. + +(*Footnote. Conybeare and Phillips Outlines etc. page 11, Geological +Transactions 1 page 327 etc. Taylor in Geological Transactions 2nd series +Volume 2 page 371. Mr. Taylor states the important fact that the remains +of unknown animals are buried together with the shells in the crag of +Suffolk; but does not mention the nature of these remains. Since these +pages have been at the press, Mr. Warburton, by whom the coast of Essex +and Norfolk has been examined with great accuracy, has informed me that +the fossil bones of the crag are the same with those of the diluvial +gravel, including the remains of the elephant, rhinoceros, stag, etc.) + +(**Footnote. Some valuable observations on the formation of recent +limestone, in beds of shelly marl at the bottom of lakes in Scotland, +have been read before the Geological Society by Mr. Lyell, and will +appear in the volume of the Transactions now in the press. See Annals of +Philosophy 1825 page 310.) + +Since it appears that the accretion of calcareous matter is continually +going on at the present time, and has probably taken place at all times, +the stone thus formed, independent of the organized bodies which it +envelopes, will afford no criterion of its date, nor give any very +certain clue to the revolutions which have subsequently acted upon it. +But as MARINE shells are found in the cemented masses, at heights above +the sea, to which no ordinary natural operations could have conveyed +them, the elevation of these shells to their actual place (if not that of +the rock in which they are agglutinated) must be referred to some other +agency: while the perfect preservation of the shells, their great +quantity, and the abundance of the same species in the same places, make +it more probable that they lay originally in the situations where we now +find them, than that they have been transported from any considerable +distances, or elevated by any very turbulent operation. Captain de +Freycinet, indeed, mentions that patellae, worn by attrition, and other +recent shells, have been found on the west coast of New Holland, on the +top of a wall of rocks an hundred feet above the sea, evidently brought +up by the surge during violent storms;* but such shells are found in the +breccia of Sicily, and in several other places, at heights too great, and +their preservation is too perfect, to admit of this mode of conveyance; +and to account for their existence in such situations, recourse must be +had to more powerful means of transport. + +(* Freycinet page 187. The presence of shells in such situations may +often be ascribed to the birds, which feed on their inhabitants. At +Madeira, where recent shells are found near the coast at a considerable +height above the sea, the Gulls have been seen carrying up the living +patellae, just taken from the rocks.) + +The occurrence of corals, and marine shells of recent appearance, at +considerable heights above the sea, on the coasts of New Holland, Timor, +and several other islands of the south, was justly considered by M. Peron +as demonstrating the former abode of the sea above the land; and very +naturally suggested an inquiry, as to the nature of the revolutions to +which this change of situation is to be ascribed.* From similar +appearances at Pulo Nias, one of the islands off the western coast of +Sumatra, Dr. Jack also was led to infer, that the surface of that island +must at one time have been the bed of the ocean; and after stating, that +by whatever means it obtained its present elevation, the transition must +have been effected with little violence or disturbance to the marine +productions at the surface,** he concludes, that the phenomena are in +favour of a HEAVING UP OF THE LAND, BY A FORCE FROM BENEATH. The probable +nature of this force is indicated most distinctly, if not demonstrated, +by the phenomena which attended the memorable earthquake of Chili, in +November, 1820,*** which was felt throughout a space of fifteen hundred +miles from north to south. For it is stated upon the clearest evidence, +that after formidable shocks of earthquake, repeated with little +interruption during the whole night of the 19th of November (and the +shocks were continued afterwards, at intervals, for several months) IT +APPEARED, on the morning of the 20th, THAT THE WHOLE LINE OF COAST FROM +NORTH TO SOUTH, TO A DISTANCE OF ABOUT ONE HUNDRED MILES, HAD BEEN RAISED +ABOVE ITS FORMER LEVEL. The alteration of level at Valparaiso was about +three feet; and some rocks were thus newly exposed, on which the +fishermen collected the scallop-shell fish, which was not known to exist +there before the earthquake. At Quintero the elevation was about four +feet. "When I went," the narrator adds, "to examine the coast, although +it was high-water, I found the ancient bed of the sea laid bare, and dry, +with beds of oysters, mussels, and other shells adhering to the rocks on +which they grew, the fish being all dead, and exhaling most offensive +effluvia. And I found good reason to believe that the coast had been +raised by earthquakes at former periods in a similar manner; several +ancient lines of beach, consisting OF SHINGLE MIXED WITH SHELLS, +extending, in a parallel direction to the shore, to the height of fifty +feet above the sea." Such an accumulation of geological evidence, from +different quarters and distinct classes of phenomena, concurs to +demonstrate the existence of most powerful expansive forces within the +earth, and to testify their agency in producing the actual condition of +its surface, that the phenomena just now described are nothing more than +what was to be expected from previous induction. These facts, however, +not only place beyond dispute the existence of such forces, but show +that, even in detail, their effects accord most satisfactorily with the +predictions of theory. It is not, therefore, at all unreasonable to +conceive, that, in other situations, phenomena of the same character have +been produced by the same cause, though we may not at present be enabled +to trace its connexion with the existing appearances so distinctly; and +though the facts, when they occurred, may have been unnoticed, or may +have taken place at periods beyond the reach of historical record, or +even beyond the possibility of human testimony. + +(*Footnote. Peron Voyage etc. volume 2 pages 165 to 183.) + +(**Footnote. Geological Transactions Second Series volume 1 page 403, +404.) + +(***Footnote. The statements here referred to, are those of Mrs. Graham, +in a letter to Mr. Warburton, which has been published in the Geological +Transactions Second Series volume 1 page 412, etc.; and the account is +supported and illustrated by a valuable paper in the Journal of the Royal +Institution for April 1824 volume 17 page 38 etc.) The writer of this +latter article asserts that the whole country, from the foot of the Andes +to far out at sea, was raised by the earthquake; the greatest rise being +at the distance of about two miles from the shore. The rise upon the +coast was from two to four feet: at the distance of a mile, inland, it +must have been from five to six, or seven feet, pages 40, 45.) + +M. Peron has attributed the great abundance of the modern breccia of New +Holland to the large proportion of calcareous matter, principally in the +form of comminuted shells, which is diffused through the siliceous sand +of the shores in that country;* and as the temperature, especially of the +summer, is very high on that part of the coast where this rock has been +principally found, the increased solution of carbonate of lime by the +percolating water, may possibly render its formation more abundant there, +than in more temperate climates. But the true theory of these +concretions, under any modification of temperature, is attended with +considerable difficulty: and it is certain that the process is far from +being confined to the warmer latitudes. Dr. Paris has given an account of +a modern formation of sandstone on the northern coast of Cornwall;** +where a large surface is covered with a calcareous sand, that becomes +agglutinated into a stone, which he considers as analogous to the rocks +of Guadaloupe; and of which the specimens that I have seen, resemble +those presented by Captain Beaufort to the Geological Society, from the +shore at Rhodes. Dr. Paris ascribes this concretion, not to the agency of +the sea, nor to an excess of carbonic acid, but to the solution of +carbonate of lime itself in water, and subsequent percolation through +calcareous sand; the great hardness of the stone arising from the very +sparing solubility of this carbonate, and the consequently very gradual +formation of the deposit--Dr. MacCulloch describes calcareous +concretions, found in banks of sand in Perthshire, which present a great +variety of stalactitic forms, generally more or less complicated, and +often exceedingly intricate and strange,*** and which appear to be +analogous to those of King George's Sound and Sweer's Island: And he +mentions, as not unfrequently occurring in sand, in different parts of +England (the sand above the fossil bones of Norfolk is given as an +example) long cylinders or tubes, composed of sand agglutinated by +carbonate of lime, or calcareous stalactites entangling sand, which, like +the concretions of Madeira, and those taken for corals at Bald-Head, have +been ranked improperly, with organic remains. + +(*Footnote. Peron Voyage etc. 2 page 116.) + +(**Footnote. Transactions of the Geological Society of Cornwall volume 1 +page 1 etc.) + +(***Footnote. On an arenaceo-calcareous substance, etc. Quarterly Journal +Royal Institution October 1823 volume 16 page 79 to 83.) + +The stone which forms the fragments in the breccia of New Holland, is +very nearly the same with that of the cement by which they are united, +the difference consisting only in the greater proportion of sand which +the fragments contain: and it would seem, that after the consolidation of +the former, and while the deposition of similar calcareous matter was +still in progress, the portions first consolidated must have been +shattered by considerable violence. But, where no such fragments exist, +the unequal diffusion of components at first uniformly mixed, and even +the formation of nodules differing in proportions from the paste which +surrounds them, may perhaps admit of explanation, by some process +analogous to what takes place in the preparation of the compound of which +the ordinary earthenware is manufactured; where, though the ingredients +are divided by mechanical attrition only, a sort of chemical action +produces, under certain circumstances, a new arrangement of the parts.* +And this explanation may, probably, be extended to those nodular +concretions, generally considered as contemporaneous with the paste in +which they are enveloped, the distinction of which, from conglomerates of +mechanical origin, forms, in many cases, a difficulty in geology. What +the degree may be, of subdivision required to dispose the particles to +act thus upon each other, or of fluidity to admit of their action, +remains still to be determined. + +(*Footnote. The clay and pulverized flints are combined for the use of +the potter, by being first separately diffused in water to the +consistence of thick cream, and when mixed in due proportion are reduced +to a proper consistence by evaporation. During this process, if the +evaporation be not rapid and immediate, or if the ingredients are left to +act on each other, even for twenty-four hours, the flinty particles unite +into sandy grains, and the mass becomes unfit for the purposes of the +manufacturer. I am indebted for this interesting fact, which, I believe, +is well known in some of the potteries, to my friend Mr. Arthur Aikin. +And Mr. Herschel informs me, that a similar change takes place in +recently precipitated carbonate of copper; which, if left long moist, +concretes into hard gritty grains, of a green colour, much more +difficultly soluble in ammonia than the original precipitate.) + +6. As the superficial extent of Australia is more than three-fourths of +that of Europe, and the interior may be regarded as unknown,* any +theoretic inferences, from the slight geological information hitherto +obtained respecting this great island, are very likely to be deceitful; +but among the few facts already ascertained respecting the northern +portion of it, there are some which appear to afford a glimpse of general +structure. + +Captain Flinders, in describing the position of the chains of islands on +the north-west coast of Carpentaria, Wessel's, the English Company's, and +Bromby's Islands, remarks, that he had "frequently observed a great +similarity both in the ground plans, and the elevations of hills, and of +islands, in the vicinity of each other, but did not recollect another +instance of such a likeness in the arrangement of clusters of islands."* +The appearances which called for this observation, from a voyager of so +much sagacity and experience in physical geography, must probably have +been very remarkable; and, combined with information derivable from the +charts, and from the specimens for which we are indebted to Captain King +and Mr. Brown, they would seem to point out the arrangement of the strata +on the northern coasts of New Holland. + +(*Footnote. The following are the proportions assigned by Captain de +Freycinet to the principal divisions of the globe. Voyage aux Terres +Australes page 107. + +COLUMN 1: DIVISION OF THE GLOBE. +COLUMN 2: AREA IN FRENCH LEAGUES SQUARE. +COLUMN 3: PROPORTION. + +Asia : 2,200,000 : 17. +America : 2,100,000 : 17. +Africa : 1,560,000 : 12. +Europe : 501,875 : 4. +Australia : 384,375 : 3. + +The most remote points from the coast of New South Wales, to which the +late expeditions have penetrated (and the interior has never yet been +examined in any other quarter) are not above 500 miles, in a direct line +from the sea; the average width of the island from east to west being +more than 2000 miles, and from north to south more than 1000 miles.) + +(*Footnote. Flinders 5 2 page 246; and Charts, Plates 14 and 15. King's +Charts, Plate 4.) + +Of the three ranges which attracted Captain Flinders' notice (see the +Map) the first on the south-east (3, 4, 5, 6, 7) is that which includes +the Red Cliffs, Mallison's Island, a part of the coast of Arnhem's Land, +from Cape Newbold to Cape Wilberforce, and Bromby's Isles; and its +length, from the mainland (3) on the south-west of Mallison's Island, to +Bromby's Isles (7) is more than fifty miles, in a direction nearly from +south-west to north-east. The English Company's Islands (2, 2, 2, 2) at a +distance of about four miles, are of equal extent; and the general +trending of them all, Captain Flinders states (page 233) is nearly +North-East by East, parallel with the line of the main coast, and with +Bromby's Islands. Wessel's Islands (1, 1, 1, 1) the third or most +northern chain, at fourteen miles from the second range, stretch out to +more than eighty miles from the mainland, likewise in the same direction. + +It is also stated by Captain Flinders, that three of the English +Company's Islands which were examined, slope down nearly to the water on +their west sides; but on the east, and more especially the south-east, +they present steep cliffs; and the same conformation, he adds, seemed to +prevail in the other islands.* If this structure occurred only in one or +two instances, it might be considered as accidental; but as it obtains in +so many cases, and is in harmony with the direction of the ranges, it is +not improbably of still more extensive occurrence, and would intimate a +general elevation of the strata towards the south-east. + +(*Footnote. Flinders Volume 2 page 235.) + +Now on examining the general map, it will be seen, that the lines of the +coast on the mainland, west of the Gulf of Carpentaria, between Limmen's +Bight and Cape Arnhem--from the bottom of Castlereagh Bay to Point +Dale--less distinctly from Point Pearce, latitude 14 degrees 23 minutes, +longitude 129 degrees 18 minutes, to the western extremity of Cobourg +Peninsula, and from Point Coulomb, latitude 17 degrees 20 minutes, +longitude 123 degrees 11 minutes, to Cape Londonderry, have nearly the +same direction; the first line being about one hundred and eighty +geographical miles, the second more than three hundred, and the last more +than four hundred miles, in length.* And these lines, though broken by +numerous irregularities, especially on the north-west coast, are yet +sufficiently distinct to indicate a probable connexion with the +geological structure of the country; since the coincidence of similar +ranges of coast with the direction of the strata, is a fact of very +frequent occurrence in other parts of the globe.** And it is observable +that considerable uniformity exists in the specimens, from the different +places in this quarter of New Holland which have been hitherto examined; +sandstone, like that of the older formations of Europe occurring +generally on the north and north-west coasts, and appearing to be +extensively diffused on the north-west of the Gulf of Carpentaria, where +it reposes upon primitive rocks.*** + +(*Footnote. It is deserving of notice, that the coast of Timor, the +nearest land on the north-west, at the distance of about 300 miles, is +also nearly straight, and parallel to the Coast of New Holland in this +quarter: part of the mountainous range, of which that island consists, +being probably more than 9000 feet high; and its length, from the +north-eastern extremity to the South-West of the adjoining island of +Rottee, about 300 miles. But, unfortunately for the hypothesis, a chain +of islands immediately on the north of Timor, is continued nearly in a +right line for more than 1200 miles (from Sermatta Island to the +south-eastern extremity of Java) in a direction FROM EAST TO WEST. This +chain, however, contains several volcanoes, including those of Sumbawa, +the eruption of which, in 1815, was of extraordinary violence. See Royal +Inst. Journal volume 1 1816 page 248 etc. + +At Lacrosse Island, in the mouth of Cambridge Gulf, on the north-west +coast of New Holland, the beds rise to the North-West: their direction +consequently is from South-West to North-East; and the rise towards the +high land of Timor. The intervening sea is very shallow.) + +(**Footnote. A remarkable case of this kind, which has not, I believe, +been noticed, occurs in the Mediterranean; and is conspicuous in the new +chart of that sea, by Captain W.H. Smyth. The eastern coast of Corsica +and Sardinia, for a space of more than two hundred geographical miles +being nearly rectilinear, in a direction from north to south; and, +Captain Smyth has informed me, consisting almost entirely of granite, or, +at least, of primitive rocks. The coast of Norway affords another +instance of the same description; and the details of the ranges in the +interior of England furnish several examples of the same kind, on a +smaller scale.) + +(***Footnote. The coastlines nearly at rightangles to those +above-mentioned--from the South-East of the Gulf of Carpentaria to +Limmen's Bight, from Cape Arnhem to Cape Croker, and from Cape Domett to +Cape Londonderry--have also a certain degree of linearity; but much less +remarkable, than those which run from South-West to North-East.) + +The horn-like projection of the land, on the east of the Gulf of +Carpentaria, is a very prominent feature in the general map of Australia, +and may possibly have some connexion with the structure just pointed out. +The western shore of this horn, from the bottom of the gulf to Endeavour +Straits, being very low; while the land on the east coast rises in +proceeding towards the south, and after passing Cape Weymouth, latitude +12 degrees 30 minutes, is in general mountainous and abrupt; and Captain +King's specimens from the north-east coast show that granite is found in +so many places along this line as to make it probable that primitive +rocks may form the general basis of the country in that quarter; since a +lofty chain of mountains is continued on the south of Cape Tribulation, +not far from the shore, throughout a space of more than five hundred +miles. It would carry this hypothesis too far to infer that these +primitive ranges are connected with the mountains on the west of the +English settlements near Port Jackson, etc., where Mr. Scott has +described the coal-measures as occupying the coast from Port Stevens, +about latitude 33 degrees to Cape Howe, latitude 37 degrees, and as +succeeded, on the eastern ascent of the Blue Mountains, by sandstone, and +this again by primitive strata:* But it may be noticed that Wilson's +Promontory, the most southern point of New South Wales, and the principal +islands in Bass Strait, contain granite; and that primitive rocks occur +extensively in Van Diemen's Land. + +(*Footnote. Annals of Philosophy June 1824.) + +The uniformity of the coastlines is remarkable also in some other +quarters of Australia; and their direction, as well as that of the +principal openings, has a general tendency to a course from the west of +south to the east of north. This, for example, is the general range of +the south-east coast, from Cape Howe, about latitude 37 degrees, to Cape +Byron, latitude 29 degrees, or even to Sandy Cape, latitude 25 degrees; +and of the western coast, from the south of the islands which enclose +Shark's Bay, latitude 26 degrees, to North-west Cape, about latitude 22 +degrees. From Cape Hamelin, latitude 34 degrees 12 minutes, to Cape +Naturaliste, latitude 33 degrees 26 minutes, the coast runs nearly on the +meridian. The two great fissures of the south coast, Spencer's, and St. +Vincent's Gulfs, as well as the great northern chasm of the Gulf of +Carpentaria, have a corresponding direction; and Captain Flinders (Chart +4) represents a high ridge of rocky and barren mountains, on the east of +Spencer's Gulf, as continued, nearly from north to south, through a space +of more than one hundred geographical miles, between latitude 32 degrees +7 minutes and 34 degrees. Mount Brown, one of the summits of this ridge, +about latitude 32 degrees 30 minutes, being visible at the distance of +twenty leagues. + +The tendency of all this evidence is somewhat in favour of a general +parallelism in the range of the strata, and perhaps of the existence of +primary ranges of mountains on the east of Australia in general, from the +coast about Cape Weymouth* to the shore between Spencer's Gulf and Cape +Howe. But it must not be forgotten, that the distance between these +shores is more than a thousand miles in a direct line; about as far as +from the west coast of Ireland to the Adriatic, or double the distance +between the Baltic and the Mediterranean. If, however, future researches +should confirm the indications above mentioned, a new case will be +supplied in support of the principle long since advanced by Mr. +Michell,** which appears (whatever theory be formed to explain it) to be +established by geological observation in so many other parts of the +world, that the outcrop of the inclined beds, throughout the stratified +portion of the globe, is everywhere parallel to the longer ridges of +mountains, towards which, also, the elevation of the strata is directed. +But in the present state of our information respecting Australia, all +such general views are so very little more than mere conjecture, that the +desire to furnish ground for new inquiry, is, perhaps, the best excuse +that can be offered for having proposed them. + +(*Footnote. The possible correspondence of the great Australian Bight, +the coast of which in general is of no great elevation, with the +deeply-indented Gulf of Carpentaria, tending, as it were, to a division +of this great island into two, accords with this hypothesis of mountain +ranges: but the distance between these recesses, over the land at the +nearest points, is not less than a thousand English miles. The granite, +on the south coast, at Investigator's Islands, and westward, at Middle +Island, Cape Le Grand, King George's Sound, and Cape Naturaliste, is very +wide of the line above-mentioned, and nothing is yet known of its +relations.) + +(**Footnote. On the Cause of Earthquakes. Philosophical Transactions 1760 +volume 51 page 566 to 585, 586.) + +... + + +DETAILED LIST OF SPECIMENS. + +The specimens mentioned in the following list have been compared with +some of those of England and other countries, principally in the cabinets +of the Geological Society, and of Mr. Greenough; and with a collection +from part of the confines of the primitive tracts of England and North +Wales, formed by Mr. Arthur Aikin, and now in his own possession. Captain +King's collection has been presented to the Geological Society; and +duplicates of Mr. Brown's specimens are deposited in the British Museum. + +RODD'S BAY, on the East Coast, discovered by Captain King, about sixty +miles south of Cape Capricorn.* Reddish sandstone, of moderately-fine +grain, resembling that which in England occurs in the coal formation, and +beneath it (mill-stone grit). A sienitic compound, consisting of a large +proportion of reddish felspar, with specks of a green substance, probably +mica; resembling a rock from Shap in Cumberland. + +(*Footnote. In Captain King's collection are also specimens found on the +beach at Port Macquarie, and in the bed of the Hastings River, of common +serpentine, and of botryoidal magnesite, from veins in serpentine. The +magnesite agrees nearly with that of Baudissero, in Piedmont. (See +Cleaveland's Mineralogy 1st edition page 345.) + +CAPE CLINTON, between Rodd's Bay and the Percy Islands. Porphyritic +conglomerate, with a base of decomposed felspar, enclosing grains of +quartz and common felspar, and some fragments of what appears to be +compact epidote; very nearly resembling specimens from the trap rocks* of +the Wrekin and Breeden Hills in Shropshire. Reddish and yellowish sandy +clay, coloured by oxide of iron, and used as pigments by the natives. + +(*Footnote. By the terms Trap, and Trap-formation, which I am aware are +extremely vague, I intend merely to signify a class of rocks, including +several members, which differ from each other considerably in +mineralogical character, but agree in some of their principal geological +relations; and the origin of which very numerous phenomena concur in +referring to some modification of volcanic agency. The term Greenstone +also is of very loose application, and includes rocks that exhibit a wide +range of characters; the predominant colour being some shade of green, +the structure more or less crystalline, and the chief ingredients +supposed to be hornblende and felspar, but the components, if they could +be accurately determined, probably more numerous and varied, than +systematic lists imply.) + +PERCY ISLANDS, about one hundred and forty miles north of Cape Capricorn. +Compact felspar of a flesh-red hue, enclosing a few small crystals of +reddish felspar and of quartz. This specimen is marked "general character +of the rocks at Percy Island," and very much resembles the compact +felspar of the Pentland Hills near Edinburgh, and of Saxony. Coarse +porphyritic conglomerate, of a reddish hue. Serpentine. A trap-like +compound, with somewhat the aspect of serpentine, but yielding with +difficulty to the knife. This specimen has, at first sight, the +appearance of a conglomerate, made up of portions of different hues, +purplish, brown, and green; but the coloured parts are not otherwise +distinguishable in the fracture: It very strongly resembles a rock which +occurs in the trap-formation, near Lyd-Hole, at Pont-y-Pool, in +Shropshire. Slaty clay, with particles of mica, like that which +frequently occurs immediately beneath beds of coal. + +REPULSE ISLAND, in Repulse Bay, about one hundred and twenty miles +north-west of the Percy Islands. Indistinct specimens, apparently +consisting of decomposed compact felspar. A compound of quartz, mica, and +felspar, having the appearance of re-composed granite. + +CAPE CLEVELAND, about one hundred and twenty miles north of Repulse +Island. Yellowish-grey granite, with brown mica; "from the summit of the +hill." Reddish granite, of very fine grain; with the aspect of sandstone. +Dark grey porphyritic hornstone, approaching to compact felspar, with +imbedded crystals of felspar. + +CAPE GRAFTON, about one hundred and eighty miles west of north from Cape +Cleveland. Close-grained grey and yellowish-grey granite, with brown +mica. A reddish granitic stone, composed of quartz, felspar, and +tourmaline. + +ENDEAVOUR RIVER, about one hundred miles west of north from Cape Grafton. +Grey granite of several varieties; from a peaked hill under Mount Cook +and its vicinity. Granular quartz-rock of several varieties: and +indistinct specimens of a rock approaching to talc-slate. + +LIZARD ISLAND, about fifty miles east of north from Endeavour River. Grey +granite, consisting of brown and white mica, quartz, and a large +proportion of felspar somewhat decomposed. + +CLACK ISLAND, near Cape Flinders, on the north-west of Cape Melville, +about ninety miles north-west of Lizard Island. Smoke-grey micaceous +slaty-clay, much like certain beds of the old red sandstone, where it +graduates into grey wacke. This specimen was taken from a horizontal bed +about ten feet in thickness, reposing upon a mass of pudding-stone, which +included large pebbles of quartz and jasper; and above it was a mass of +sandstone, more than sixty feet thick. (Narrative volume 2.) + +SUNDAY ISLAND, near Cape Grenville, about one hundred and seventy miles +west of north from Cape Melville. Compact felspar, of a flesh-red colour; +very nearly resembling that of the Percy Islands, above-mentioned. + +GOOD'S ISLAND, one of the Prince of Wales group, about latitude 10 +degrees, thirty-four miles north-west of Cape York. The specimens, in Mr. +Brown's collection from this place, consist of coarse-slaty porphyritic +conglomerate, with a base of greenish-grey compact felspar, containing +crystals of reddish felspar and quartz. This rock has some resemblance to +that of Clack Island above-mentioned. + +SWEER'S ISLAND, south of Wellesley's group, at the bottom of the Gulf of +Carpentaria. A stalactitic concretion of quartzose sand, and fine gravel, +cemented by reddish carbonate of lime; apparently of the same nature with +the stem-like concretions of King George's Sound: (See hereafter.) In +this specimen the tubular cavity of the stalactite is still open. + +The shore, in various parts of this island, was found to consist of red +ferruginous matter (Bog-iron-ore ?) sometimes unmixed, but not +unfrequently mingled with a sandy calcareous stone; and in some places +rounded portions of the ferruginous matter were enveloped in a calcareous +cement. + +BENTINCK ISLAND, near Sweer's Island. A granular compound, like sandstone +recomposed from the debris of granite. Brown hematite, enclosing +quartzose sand. + +PISONIA ISLAND, on the east of Mornington's Island, is composed of +calcareous breccia and pudding-stone, which consist of a sandy calcareous +cement, including water-worn portions of reddish ferruginous matter, with +fragments of shells. + +NORTH ISLAND, one of Sir Edward Pellew's group. Coarse siliceous sand, +concreted by ferruginous matter; which, in some places, is in the state +of brown hematite. Calcareous incrustations, including fragments of +madrepores, and of shells, cemented by splintery carbonate of lime. + +CAPE-MARIA ISLAND, in Limmen's Bight, was found by Mr. Brown to be +composed principally of sandstone. The specimens from this place, +however, consist of grey splintery hornstone, with traces of a slaty +structure; and of yellowish-grey flint, approaching to chalcedony; with a +coarse variety of cacholong, containing small nests of quartz crystals. + +GROOTE EYLANDT is composed of sandstone, of which two different varieties +occur among the specimens. A quartzose reddish sandstone, of moderately +fine grain; and a coarse reddish compound, consisting almost exclusively +of worn pebbles of quartz, some of which are more than half an inch in +diameter, with a few rounded pebbles of chalcedony. The latter rock is +nearly identical with that of Simms' Island, near Goulburn's Island on +the north coast. + +CHASM ISLAND, WINCHELSEA ISLAND, and BURNEY'S ISLAND, are of the same +materials as Groote Eylandt: and sandstone was found also on the western +shore of BLUE-MUD BAY. + +On the shore of the mainland, opposite to Groote Eylandt, a little north +of latitude 14 degrees, Mr. Brown observed the common sandy calcareous +stone, projecting here and there in ragged fragments. + +MORGAN'S ISLAND, in Blue-Mud Bay, north-west of Groote Eylandt, is +composed principally of clink-stone, sometimes indistinctly columnar. But +among the specimens are also a coarse conglomerate of a dull purplish +colour, including pebbles of granular quartz and a fragment of a slaty +rock like potstone: the hue and aspect of the compound being precisely +those of the oldest sandstones. Reddish quartzose sandstone, of uniform +and fine grain. A concretion of rounded quartz pebbles, cemented by +ferruginous matter, apparently of recent formation. + +ROUND HILL, near Cape Grindall, a prominence east of north from Blue-Mud +Bay, was found by Captain Flinders to consist, at the upper part, of +sandstone. The specimens of the rocks in its vicinity are, dark grey +granite, somewhat approaching to gneiss, with a few specks of garnet; and +a calcareous, probably concretional stone, enclosing the remains of +shells, with cavities lined with crystals of calcareous spar. + +MOUNT CALEDON, on the mainland, west of Caledon Bay, consists of grey +granite, with dark brown mica in small quantity; and on the sides and top +of the hill large loose blocks of that rock were observed, resting upon +other blocks. + +A small island, near Cape Arnhem, is also composed of granite, in which +the felspar has a bluish hue. + +Smaller of the MELVILLE ISLANDS, north-east of Melville Bay.* A +botryoidal mass of ferruginous oxide of manganese, approaching to +hematite; the fissures in some places occupied by carbonate of lime. + +(*Footnote. The relative position of the islands and bays on this part of +the coast is represented in the enlarged Map.) + +MELVILLE BAY. Granite, composed of grey and somewhat bluish felspar, dark +brown mica, and a little quartz; containing minute disseminated specks of +molybdena, and indistinct crystals of pale red garnet. + +RED CLIFFS, south-west of Arnhem Bay; on the line of the first chain of +islands mentioned by Captain Flinders. (See the Map, figure 3.) Friable +conglomerate, of a full brick-red colour, consisting of minute grains of +quartz, with a large proportion of ochreous matter. + +MALLISON'S ISLAND. (Map, figure 4.) The cliffs of this island are +composed of a fissile primitive rock, on which sandstone reposes in +regular beds. The specimen of the former resembles gneiss, or mica slate, +near the contact with granite: the sandstone is thick-slaty, quartzose, +of a reddish hue, with mica disseminated on the surfaces of the joints; +and one face of the specimen is incrusted with quartz crystals, thinly +coated with botryoidal hematite. Light grey quartzose sandstone of a fine +grain, with a thin coating of brown hematite, was also found in this +island: And a breccia, consisting of angular fragments of sandstone, +cemented by thin, vein-like, coatings of dark brown hematite, was found +there, in loose blocks at the bottom of perpendicular cliffs. The +specimen of this breccia is attached to a plate of granular quartz, and +may possibly have been part of a vein. + +The shore of INGLIS' ISLAND, the largest of the ENGLISH COMPANY'S RANGE +(2. 2. 2. in the Map) is formed of flat beds, of a slaty argillaceous +rock, which breaks into rhomboidal fragments; but the specimen is +indistinct. Ferruginous masses, probably consisting of brown hematite, +come also from this island. + +ASTELL'S ISLAND, north-east of Inglis' Isle. Very fine-grained +greyish-white quartzose sandstone; identical with that of Mallison's +Island, and very closely resembling some of the specimens from Prince +Regent's and Hunter's Rivers. + +Among the remaining islands of this range, BOSANQUET'S, COTTON'S, and +POBASSOO's Isles, were found by Mr. Brown to consist, in a great measure, +of sandstone, of the same character with the specimens above-mentioned. + +POBASSOO'S ISLAND, a small islet south-east of Astell's Isle. +Fine-grained, somewhat reddish, sandstone. Another specimen of sandstone +is friable, of a light flesh-red colour, and apparently composed of the +debris of granite. A crystalline rock, consisting of greenish-grey +hornblende, with a very small proportion of felspar (Hornblende rock ?). +Fragment, apparently from a columnar mass, of a stone intermediate +between clink-stone and compact felspar. + +Such of the English Company's Islands as were examined by Captain +Flinders, are stated by him to consist, in the upper part, of a grit, or +sandstone, of a close texture; the lower part being argillaceous, and +stratified, and separating into pieces of a reddish colour, resembling +flat tiles. The strata-dip to the west, at an angle of about 15 degrees. + +South-west bay of GOULBURN'S SOUTH ISLAND, two hundred and fifty miles +west of the Gulf of Carpentaria (Narrative 1). Coarse-grained reddish +quartzose conglomerate and sandstone; resembling the older sandstones of +England and Wales, and especially the mill-stone grit beneath the coal +formation. Fine greyish-white pipe-clay; of which about thirty feet in +thickness were visible, apparently above the sandstone last mentioned. +Coarse-grained, ferruginous sandstone, containing fragments of quartz, +from above the pipe-clay. The appearance of the cliff from which these +specimens were taken, is represented in the view of the bay on the south +of Goulburn Island (volume 1); and a distant head in the view consists of +the same materials. + +SIMMS ISLAND, on the west of Goulburn's south Island (Narrative 1) is +composed of a reddish conglomerate, nearly identical with some of the +specimens above-mentioned. + +The western side of LETHBRIDGE BAY, on the north of MELVILLE ISLAND, +consists of a range of cliffs like those at Goulburn's Island; the upper +part being red, the lower white and composed of pipe-clay. The western +extremity of BATHURST ISLAND, between CAPE HELVETIUS and CAPE FOURCROY, +is also formed of cliffs of a very dark red colour. + +LACROSSE ISLAND, at the mouth of CAMBRIDGE GULF, about one hundred miles +from Port Keats. Reddish, very quartzose sandstone; from a stratum which +dips to the south-east, at an angle of about ten or fifteen degrees. +Micaceous and argillaceous fissile sandstone, of purplish and greenish +hues, in patches, or occasionally intermixed; precisely resembling the +rock of Brecon, in South Wales, and, generally, the old red sandstone of +the vicinity of Bristol and the confines of England and Wales. +Fine-grained thin-slaty sandstone, resembling certain beds of the coal +formation, or of the millstone grit, is found in large masses, under an +argillaceous cliff, on the north side of Lacrosse Island. + +The specimens from the interior of Cambridge Gulf are from ADOLPHUS +ISLAND, and consist of reddish and grey sandstone, more or less +decomposed. + +VANSITTART BAY, about one hundred and forty miles north-west of Cambridge +Gulf. Reddish quartzose sandstone, or quartz-rock. Indistinct specimens +of greenstone, with adhering quartz; apparently a primitive rock. + +PORT WARRENDER, at the bottom of Admiralty Gulf, about forty miles +south-west of Vansittart Bay (Narrative volume 1). Epidote and quartz, in +small crystals confusedly interlaced; apparently from veins, or nests, +but unaccompanied by any portion of the adjacent rock. The structure in +one of these specimens approaches to the amygdaloidal. A compact greenish +stone, with disseminated crystalline spots of epidote, and of quartz, and +apparently consisting of an intimate mixture of those minerals, is also +among the specimens from Port Warrender. + +All these specimens are from detached water-worn masses at the foot of +Crystal Head, on the south-west of the port. The summit of the head is +flat and tabular, and the rocks in the vicinity are described by Captain +King as consisting of siliceous sandstone. Chalcedony, apparently from +amygdaloid of the trap formation, was also found at Port Warrender. + +The epidote of this place is in general of a pale-greenish colour, but is +mixed with, and sometimes appears to pass into, spots of a rich +purplish-brown. The specimens resemble generally the epidote of Dauphiny +and Siberia; but Mr. Levy, who has been so good as to examine them, +informs me that the crystals exhibit some modifications not described +either by Hauy, or by Mr. Haidinger in his paper on this mineral, and +which are probably peculiar to this locality. + +WATER ISLAND, on the west side of CAPE VOLTAIRE, at the south-west +entrance of Port Warrender, is described (volume 1) as consisting of +quartzose sandstone; as is also KATER ISLAND, in Montagu Sound. And the +same rock appears to occur throughout the islands on this part of the +coast. (Narrative 1.) + +MONTAGU SOUND, about five-and-twenty miles south-west of ADMIRALTY GULF +(Narrative 1). Greyish granular quartz; like that of the Lickey Hill, in +Worcestershire. Fine-grained quartzose sandstone, of a purplish hue, +resembling a rock on the banks of the Severn, near Bridgenorth. Grey and +reddish sandstone; apparently composed of the debris of granite, and very +nearly resembling that of Simms Island above-mentioned. + +HUNTER'S RIVER, falling into YORK SOUND, on the north-east side. Somewhat +coarse reddish-white sandstone; like that of the coal formation, and some +varieties of millstone grit. Fine-grained, reddish-grey quartzose +sandstone, having the appearance of stratification, and resembling the +rocks of Cambridge Gulf. + +ROE'S RIVER, at the eastern termination of York Sound (Narrative 1) runs +between precipitous banks of sandstone, in nearly horizontal strata, +which rise to the height of three hundred feet. + +CAREENING BAY, between York Sound and Prince Regent's River (Narrative +volume 1. See the plate volume 1). Crystalline epidote, and whitish +quartz, apparently from a vein. Purplish-brown epidote, with small nests +or concretions of green epidote and quartz; forming a sort of amygdaloid. +Conglomerate, containing angular fragments of yellowish-grey quartz-rock, +in a base of compact epidote. A nearly uniform greenish compound of +epidote intimately mixed with quartz, also occurs at this place. Flat +lamellar chalcedony. Very fine-grained reddish-grey quartzose sandstone, +with traces of a slaty structure, resembling that of York Sound, and +Cambridge Gulf, was found in the north-east end of this bay; and +fine-grained greenstone, on the summit of the adjacent hills. + +Several of these specimens are almost identical with those of Port +Warrender; from which place Careening Bay is distant about sixty miles. + +BAT ISLAND (Narrative volume 1) western entrance of Careening Bay. Quartz +from thin veins, with particles of an adhering rock, probably +chlorite-slate. Quartz, containing disseminated hematitic iron-ore and +copper pyrites. Quartz crystals, with chalcedony, from nodules in +amygdaloid. Quartz with specular iron ore. Greenstone, with chalcedony +and copper pyrites. A decomposed stone, probably consisting of wacke. The +specimens of trap-rocks from this place are from a cavern. + +GREVILLE ISLAND, near the entrance of Prince Regent's River. Reddish, +coarsely granular, siliceous sandstone; in horizontal strata, intersected +by veins of crystallized quartz.* + +(*Footnote. Narrative volume 2.) + +HALF-WAY BAY, within Prince Regent's River on the west of the entrance, +near Greville Island. Hornblende rock ? nearly agreeing with that of +Pobassoo's Island, on the north-west of the Gulf of Carpentaria (see +above). Calcedony, apparently from nodules in amygdaloid. Greenish +quartz, approaching to heliotrope. Red, somewhat slaty jasper, mixed with +quartz and chalcedony, and containing specular iron ore. + +The specimens from this place much resemble some of those from Sotto i +Sassi, in the Val di Fassa in the Tyrol, which I have seen in the +collection of Mr. Herschel; and which consist of reddish jasper with +chalcedony, and a greenish flinty stone, like heliotrope, the whole +belonging to the trap-formation. + +POINT CUNNINGHAM, east of south from Cape Leveque, and about one hundred +and fifty miles south-west of Prince Regent's River. Very compact and +fine-grained reddish granular quartz, with a glistening lustre, and flat +conchoidal fracture. This stone, though so compact in the recent +fracture, has distinct traces of stratification on the decomposed +surface, which is of a dull reddish hue. Bright red ferruginous granular +quartz (Eisen-kiesel ?) with a glistening lustre, and a somewhat porous +texture. A specimen of the soil of the hills at Cygnet Bay, consists of +very fine reddish-yellow quartzose sand. A large rounded pebble, +consisting of ferruginous granular quartz, of a dark purplish-brown +colour, and considerable density, was found here; near a fireplace of the +natives, by whom it is used for making their hatchets; with a fragment of +a calcareous incrustation, like that of the west coast hereafter +mentioned. + +The next specimens in Captain King's collection--a space of more than +three hundred miles on this coast not having been examined by him--are +from MALUS ISLAND, in Dampier's Archipelago (see Narrative volume 1) they +consist of fine-grained greenstone, and what appears to be a basaltic +rock, of amygdaloidal structure. + +DIRK HARTOG'S ISLAND, west of Shark's Bay. A compound of rather +fine-grained translucent quartzose sand, cemented by carbonate of lime, +of various shades of reddish and yellowish grey. This stone has in some +places the structure of a breccia; the angles of the imbedded fragments, +which are from half an inch to two inches in diameter, being very +distinct--but in other parts, the fracture exhibits the appearance of +roundish nodules, composed of concentric shells--or bags as it were, of +calcareous matter, which vary in colour, and are filled with a mixture of +the same substance and quartzose sand: and the spaces between these +nodules are likewise occupied by a similar compound.* + +(*Footnote. The following description given by the French naturalists of +the rocks at Bernier's Islands, was probably taken from a large suite of +specimens; and M. Peron states (1 page 204) that it is strictly +applicable to all the adjacent parts of the continent, and of the islands +that were examined by the French voyagers: + +Le sable du rivage (de l'ile Bernier) est quartzeux, mele d'une grande +proportion de debris calcaires fortement attenues. La substance de l'ile +meme se compose, dans ses couches inferieures, d'un gres calcaire +coquillier, tantot blanchatre, tantot rougeatre, depose par couches +horizontales, dont l'epaisseur varie de 2 a 8 decimetres (7 a 11 pouces) +et qui toutes etant tres uniformes dans leur prolongement, pourroient +offrir a la maconnerie des pierres de construction naturellement +taillees. + +Les coquilles incrustees dans ces massifs des roches sont presque toutes +univalves; elles apartiennent plus particulierement au genre Natice de M. +de Lamarck, et ont les plus grands rapports avec l'espece de Natice qui +se trouve vivante au pied de ces rochers. Elles sont sans doute +petrifiees depuis bien des siecles, car, outre qu'il est tres difficile +de les retirer intactes du milieu de ces gres, tant leur adhesion avec +eux est intime, on les observe encore a plus de 50 metres (150 pieds) au +dessus du niveau actuel de la mer. + +Quelque regularite que ces bancs puissent affecter dans leur disposition +generale, ils ne sont cependant pas tous homogenes dans leur substance; +il est sur-tout une variete de ces roches plus remarquable par sa +structure. Ce sont des galets calcaires, agreges dans une terre +sablonneuse ocracee, qui leur est tellement adherente, qu'on ne sauroit +detruire cette espece de gangue sans les briser eux memes. Tous ces +galets affectent la forme globlueuse, et se composent d'un grand nombre +de zones concentriques, qui se developpent autour d'un noyau central d'un +gres scintillant et brunatre. Ces diverses couches ont a peine quelques +millimitres d'epaisseur, et affectent des nuances agreables, qui varient +depuis le rouge-fonce jusqu'au jaune-clair. La disposition generale de +cette breche lui donne donc quelques rapports grossiers avec le granit +globuleux de l'ile de Corse; et, par ses couches rubanees, concentriques, +elle a quelque chose de l'aspect des Agathes-Onyx...Les bancs de gres +divers dont je viens de parler, constituent, a bien dire, la masse +entiere du pays qui nous occupe, etc. (Volume 1 page 110. See also +Freycinet page 187.) + +The cementing limestone in the rock of this island, is very like some of +the more compact portions of the stone of Guadaloupe, which contains the +human skeletons, the hardness and fracture being nearly the same in both. +The chief difference of these rocks seems to arise from the nature of the +cemented substances; which, in the Guadaloupe stone, being themselves +calcareous, are incorporated, or melted as it were, into the cement, by +insensible gradation;* while the quartzose sand, in that of Dirk Hartog's +Island, is strongly contrasted with the calcareous matter that surrounds +it.** But, wherever the imbedded fragments in the latter consist of +limestone, their union with the cement is complete. + +(*Footnote. See Mr. Koenig's Paper. Philosophical Transactions volume 104 +1814 page 107 etc.) + +(**Footnote. Captain King informs me that the soundings in this part of +the coast bring up a very fine quartzose-sand like that cemented in the +breccia.) + +ROTTNEST ISLAND, about four hundred and fifty miles south of Dirk +Hartog's Island. Indistinct specimens containing numerous fragments of +shells, in a calcareous cement; the substance of these shells has at +first sight the appearance of chalcedony, and is harder than ordinary +carbonate of lime. + +The characters of the shells in Captain King's specimens from this place +are indistinct; but the specimens at the Jardin du Roi, which, there is +reason to suppose, have come from this part of the coast, contain shells +of several species, belonging among others to the genera, corbula, chama, +cardium, porcellanea, turbo, cerithium. M. Prevost, to whom I am indebted +for this account, observes that notwithstanding the recent appearance of +the shells, the beds which contain them are stated to occur at a +considerable height above the sea: and he remarks that the aspect of the +rock is very like that of the shelly deposits of St. Hospice, near Nice. + +KING GEORGE'S SOUND, on the south coast, east of south from Cape Leeuwin. +Beautifully white and fine quartzose sand, from the sea-beach. Yellowish +grey granite, from Bald-head. Two varieties of a calcareous rock, of the +same nature with that of Dirk Hartog's Island; consisting of particles of +translucent quartzose sand, united by a cement of yellowish or +cream-coloured carbonate of lime, which has a flat conchoidal and +splintery fracture, and is so hard as to yield with difficulty to the +knife. In this compound, there are not any distinct angular fragments, as +in the stone of Dirk Hartog's Islands; but the calcareous matter is very +unequally diffused. + +A third form in which this recent calcareous matter appears, is that of +irregular, somewhat tortuous, stem-like bodies, with a rugged sandy +surface, and from half an inch to an inch in diameter; the cross fracture +of which shows that they are composed of sand, cemented by carbonate of +lime, either uniformly mixed throughout, or forming a crust around +calcareous matter of a spongy texture; in which latter case they have +some resemblance to the trunks or roots of trees. A mass, which seems to +have been of this description, is stated to have come from a height of +about two hundred and fifty feet above the sea, at Bald-head, on the +South Coast of Australia. These specimens, however, do not really exhibit +any traces of organic structure; and so nearly resemble the irregular +stalactitical concretions produced by the passage of calcareous or +ferruginous solutions through sand* that they are probably of the same +origin; indeed the central cavity of the stalactite still remains open in +some of the specimens of this kind from Sweer's Island in the Gulf of +Carpentaria. The specimens from Madeira, presented to the Geological +Society by Mr. Bowdich, and described in his notes on that island,** +appear upon examination to be of the same character. But there is no +reason to suppose that the trunks of trees, as well as other foreign +substances, may not be thus incrusted, since various foreign bodies, even +of artificial production, have been so found. Professor Buckland has +mentioned a specimen of concreted limestone from St. Helena, which +contains the recent shell of a bird's egg;*** and M. Peron states that, +in the concretional limestone rock of the South Coast of New Holland, the +trunks of trees occur, with the vegetable structure so distinct as to +leave no doubt as to their nature.**** + +(*Footnote. Tubular concretions of ferruginous matter, irregularly +ramifying through sand, like the roots of trees, are described by Captain +Lyon as occurring in Africa. Lyon's Travels Appendix page 65.) + +(**Footnote. Excursions in Madeira 1825 page 139, 140; and Bull. des +Sciences Naturelles volume 4 page 322.) + +(***Footnote. Geological Transactions volume 5 page 479.) + +(****Footnote. Peron 2 page 75.) + + +INSTRUCTIONS FOR COLLECTING GEOLOGICAL SPECIMENS. + +It so often happens that specimens sent from distant places, by persons +unpractised in geology, fail to give the instruction which is intended, +from the want of attention to a few necessary precautions, that the +following directions may perhaps be useful to some of those, into whose +hands these pages are likely to fall. It will be sufficient to premise, +that two of the principal objects of geological inquiry, are, to +determine, first, the nature of the MATERIALS of which the earth is +composed; and, secondly, the relative ORDER in which these materials are +disposed with respect to each other. + +1. Specimens of rocks ought not, in general, to be taken from loose +pieces, but from large masses in their native place, or which have +recently fallen from their natural situation. + +2. The specimens should consist of the stone unchanged by exposure to the +elements, which sometimes alter the characters to a considerable distance +from the surface. Petrifactions, however, are often best distinguishable +in masses somewhat decomposed; and are thus even rendered visible, in +many cases, where no trace of any organized body can be discerned in the +recent fracture. + +3. The specimens ought not to be too small. A convenient size is about +three inches square, and about three-quarters of an inch, or less, in +thickness. + +4. It seldom happens that large masses, even of the same kind of rock, +are uniform throughout any considerable space; so that the general +character is collected, by geologists who examine rocks in their native +places, from the average of an extensive surface: a collection ought +therefore to furnish specimens of the most characteristic varieties; and +THE MOST SPLENDID SPECIMENS ARE, IN GENERAL, NOT THE MOST INSTRUCTIVE. +Where several specimens are taken in the same place, a series of numbers +should be added to the note of their locality. + +5. One of the most advantageous situations for obtaining specimens, and +examining the relations of rocks, is in the sections afforded by cliffs +on the seashore; especially after recent falls of large masses. It +commonly happens that the beds thus exposed are more or less inclined; +and in this case, if any of them be inaccessible at a particular point, +the decline of the strata will frequently enable the collector to supply +himself with the specimens he wishes for, within a short distance. Thus, +in Sketch 4, which may be supposed to represent a cliff of considerable +height, the observer being situated at a, the beds b, c, d, though +inaccessible at that place, may be examined with ease and security, where +they successively come down to the shore, at b prime, c prime, and d +prime. + +6. To examine the interior of an unknown country, more skill and practice +are required: the rocks being generally concealed by the soil, +accumulations of sand, gravel, etc., and by the vegetation of the +surface. But the strata are commonly disclosed in the sides of ravines, +in the beds of rivers and mountain-streams; and these, especially where +they cross the direction of the strata, and be made, by careful +examination, to afford instructive sections. + +7. Among the distinctive circumstances of the strata, the remains of +organized bodies, shells, corals, and other zoophytes, the bones and +teeth of animals, fossil wood, and the impressions of vegetable stems, +roots, or leaves, etc., are of the greatest importance; affording +generally the most marked characters of the strata in which they occur. +These should, therefore, be particularly sought after, and their relative +abundance or rarity in different situations noticed. The petrified bodies +should, if possible, be kept united with portions of the rock or matrix +in which they are found; and where they are numerous, in sand, clay, or +any moist or friable matrix, it is in general better to retain a large +portion of the whole mass, to be examined afterwards, than to attempt +their separation at the time of collecting. + +8. The loose materials which are found above the solid rocks, in the form +of gravel, silt, rolled pebbles, etc., should be carefully distinguished +from the solid strata upon which they repose. And the more ancient of +these loose materials, found on the sides or summits of hills, etc., +should be distinguished from the recent mud, sand, and gravel, brought +down by land-floods, or rivers. The bones and teeth of animals are not +unfrequently found in gravel of the former description; and the +collection of these remains from distant quarters of the globe, is an +object of the greatest interest to geology. + +9. Besides a note of the locality, there ought, if possible, to accompany +every specimen, a short notice of its geological circumstances; as: + +Whether it be found in large shapeless masses, or in strata? + +If in strata, what are the thickness, inclination to the horizon, and +direction with respect to the compass, of the beds? [If these cannot be +measured, an estimate should always be recorded, while the objects are in +view.] Are they uniform in dip and direction? curved, or contorted? +continuous, or interrupted by fissures or veins? + +Is the whole cliff, or mass of strata in sight, of uniform composition? +or does it consist of different kinds of stone? + +If the strata be different, what is the order in which they are placed +above each other successively? + +10. A label, distinctly written, should accompany every specimen, stating +its native place, its relative situation, etc., etc. And these labels +should be connected with the specimens immediately, on the spot where +they are found. This injunction may appear to be superfluous; but so much +valuable information has been lost to geology from the neglect of it, +that every observer of experience will acknowledge its necessity; and it +is, perhaps, in practice one of the most difficult to adhere to. + +11. A sketch of a coast or cliff, however slight, frequently conveys more +information respecting the disposition and relations of rocks, than the +longest memorandum. If numbers, denoting the situation of the specimens +collected, be marked upon such sketches, much time may be saved at the +moment of collecting. But in all such cases, the memorandum should be +looked over soon afterwards, and labels distinctly explaining their +situation, etc., be attached to the specimens themselves. + +12. The specimens should be so packed, that the surfaces may be defended +from exposure to air, moisture, and friction: for which purpose, if +strong paper cannot be obtained, dry moss, or straw, or leaves, may be +used with advantage. Where paper is used for wrapping the specimens, they +are best secured by fastening the envelope with sealing-wax. + +Lastly, The collector must not be discouraged, nor be prevented from +collecting, by finding that the place which he may chance to visit in a +remote situation, has not a striking appearance, or the rocks within his +view a very interesting character; since it frequently, and even +commonly, happens, that facts and specimens, in themselves of very little +importance, become valuable by subsequent comparison; so that scarcely +any observation, if recorded with accuracy, will be thrown away. + +... + +The Instruments required by the geological traveller will vary, according +to the acquirements and specific objects of the individual. The most +essential are: + +The Hammer (Sketch 5); which, for general purposes, may be of the form +here represented: + +The head should be of steel well tempered, about 4 inches from the face +to the edge, and 1 1/4 inch square in the middle; the face flat, and +square, or nearly so; the edge placed in the direction of the handle. The +orifice for the insertion of the handle oval, a very little wider on the +outer side than within; its diameters, about 1 inch vertically, and 0.7 +across; the centre somewhat more than 1 1/2 inch from the face. The +handle should be of ash, or other tough wood; not less than 16 inches +long; fitting tight into the head at its insertion, without a shoulder; +and increasing a little in size towards the end remote from the head, to +prevent its slipping. It should be fixed in the head by means of a thin, +barbed iron wedge. + +For trimming specimens, smaller hammers may be employed (Sketch 6): The +form of the head, recommended for this purpose by Dr. MacCulloch,* is +rectangular. The dimensions of the face may be 1 inch by 3/4; the height +2 1/4. + +(*Footnote. On the forms of Mineralogical Hammers, Quarterly Journal +Royal Institution volume 11 1821 page 1 etc.) + +It will be expedient to have always some hammers, of different sizes, in +reserve. + +A small miner's pick is useful for cutting out, and splitting portions of +slaty rocks; or for obtaining specimens of clays, etc. + +A small stone-cutter's chisel. A chisel with a handle, of the form here +represented, will often save the hand of an inexpert collector, and +better enable him to direct his blow. + +For packing the specimens. A stock of strong paper. Sealing-wax. +Writing-paper, cut into labels. Thick gum-water, to cement the labels to +the specimens. + +For the Conveyance of specimens. A large bag of leather, with straps for +the shoulders. Strong canvas bags, of smaller size, are very convenient +for subdivision and arrangement. For the protection of crystals, or +delicate petrifactions, etc., wool or cotton are necessary; and small +wooden boxes (like those used for holding wafers) are sometimes required. +For distant carriage, strong wooden boxes, casks, or baskets. + +The following are either essential, or useful in various degrees, for +obtaining and recording observations. + +Pocket Memorandum-Books, of sufficient size to admit sketches. +A Pocket Compass. +A Measuring-Tape, of fifty feet, or more. +A Telescope. +A Camera Lucida. +A Box of Colours. + +The best maps should always be sought for: And, the true economy to the +traveller being that which saves time, it is best to mark, or even colour +the map, in the field. Notes inserted on imperfect maps, or deduced +afterwards from memoranda, are less authentic; and the process is +frequently neglected. + +PORTABLE-BAROMETERS, with detached thermometers, are desirable; and the +best instruments are ultimately the cheapest. But, unfortunately, +barometers of every construction are very easily damaged or deranged. The +accurate determination of heights, however, though very interesting to +physical geography, is comparatively of little importance to the +geologist. + +If the collector be a surveyor, he will know best to what purpose a +Pocket Sextant, or small Theodolite, is applicable: the measurement of +distances, of heights, and of the inclination of strata, etc. + +... + +CONTENTS OF APPENDIX C. + +GENERAL SKETCH OF THE COAST. + +GEOLOGICAL REMARKS. +1. List of Rocks. +2. Rocks identical with those of Europe. +3. Aspect of the Shores. +4. Information wanting respecting Diluvial deposits: no Specimens of +Limestone: no Volcanoes. +5. Recent calcareous breccia. +6. Range of the Coastlines. + +DETAILED LIST OF SPECIMENS. + +... + +INSTRUCTIONS FOR COLLECTING GEOLOGICAL SPECIMENS. + +... + + +APPENDIX D. + +COMPARATIVE TABLE OF THE LANGUAGES OF THE NATIVES, WITH SOME GENERAL +REMARKS. + +COLUMN 1: ENGLISH WORD. +COLUMN 2: CALEDON BAY, GULF OF CARPENTARIA. FROM CAPTAIN FLINDERS. +COLUMN 3: ENDEAVOUR RIVER, NORTH-EAST COAST. PARTLY FROM CAPTAIN COOK AND +MR. FORSTER. +COLUMN 4: KING GEORGE THE THIRD'S SOUND, SOUTH-WEST COAST. +COLUMN 5: PORT JACKSON. +COLUMN 6: BURRAH BURRAH TRIBE. FROM MR. SCOTT. +COLUMN 7: LIMESTONE CREEK. FROM MR. OXLEY. +COLUMN 8: PORT MACQUARIE. FROM MR. HUNTER. +COLUMN 9: MACQUARIE HARBOUR, VAN DIEMEN'S LAND. + +Eye : Ma-il : Me-ul : Me-al : Mi, or Me, Mego : Miki-laja : Milla : Me'-e +: Nam'-mur-uck. + +Nose : Ur-ro, or Hurro : Emer-da, or Poteer, Bon-joo (Cook) : Tarmul, +Moil (Flinders) : Nogro : - : Mor-ro : Na'-ag : Me-oun. + +Lips : Ta-a : Yem-be (Cook) : Tar : Willing : - : - : - : -. + +Teeth : Lir-ra : Mol-ear : Orlock : Era, or Da-ra : Yerrah : Er-ra : +Te'-lah : Kouk. + +Tongue : Mat-ta : Unjar : Darlin, or Thalil : Tal-lang : - : - : Mal'-way +: Mim. + +Cheeks : Tac-cal : - : Ny-a-luck : Yarrin : - : - : - : -. + +Chin : Na-ing : - : - : Wal-lo : - : - : - : -. + +Ears : Pon-doo-roo, or Po-door-roo : Mil-kah, Melea (Cook) : Duong : +Co-roo, Goray, or Benne : Binning-huiy : Wha-da :Mo'-ko : Goun-reek. + +Hair of the head : Marra : Morye : Ka-at : Kewarra, Dewarra, or Gewarroo +: Mundar : Bulla-ye-ga : Wo'l-lack : Pipe, or Bipipe. + +Neck : Mo-i-ang : Doom-boo, Forster : - : Ganga, Cadlear, or Cadleang : - +: Oro- : - : Treek, or Lan-gar-ree. + +Breast : Gum-mur : Coy-or (Forster) : - : Nabung : - : Be-ning : Nam-bang +: -. + +Belly : Goor-ro : Melmal (Forster) : Cop-bull, or Kopul : Barrong, or +Bende : Binda : Bur-bing : War'rah : -. + +Arm : Wan-na, or War-na : Aco, or Acol : Wor-nuck : Tarrang : - : Bar-gar +: Co-pah : Yir-ra-wig. + +Hand : Gong : - : - : Tam-mir-ra : Morrewalla : - : - : -. + +Fingers : Mingel : Mun-gal-bah : Mai (singular), Maih (plural) : +Ber-ril-le : Maranga : Nar-ra : Mah-tra : War-ra-nook. + +Elbow : Le-kal, or Le-kan : Ye-er-we : - : O-nur : - : - : - : +Nam-me-rick. + +Posteriors : Lam-me : Booca (Forster) : Wa'l-la-kah : Bo-ong, or Bayley : +- : - : - : -. + +Leg : Bacca : Peegoorga (Forster) : - : Dar-ra : - : - : Woo'lo-loo : -. + +Foot : Locko, or Nocka : Edamal (feet) : Ja-an, or Bangul : Manoe : Janna +: Dhee-nany : - : -. + +Toe : Mangel-locko : Eb-e-rah : Kea (singular) Kean (plural) : - : - : - +: Teel-nah : Pe-une. + +Sun : Laran-gai, or Car-ran-ghie : Gallan (Forster) : Djaat : Goona, +Coing, or Con-do-in : Bun-nail, or Mo-mat : - : Too-nigh, or Win-gin : -. + +Water : Lucka, or Lucko : Poorai (Forster) : - : Ba-doo : Ajung- : - : +Bah-do : -. + +Stone : Punda : Wal-bah : - : Keba : Wy-juck : - : - : -. + +Kangaroo : Loi-tyo : Men-u-ah, Kan-goo-roo (Cook) : Beango : Tungo, +Patagorang, Bag-gar-ray, Wal-li-bah, Wal-lar-roo, Bou-rou, Barro-melon, +Betong, Wy-rung, Pademalion : - : - : Womboy, Pool-cot (tame), Mah-koke +(the Pademalion of Port Jackson) : Raguar. + +Throwing-stick : Kail lepo : Melpairo, or Melpier (Forster) : Me-a-ra : +Wo-me-rah : - : - : - : -. + +Nipples (of a man) : - : Coy-o-ber-rah, Cayo (Cook) : Be-ep : Mou-tral : +- : - : - : Nerrinook. + +Dog : - : Cotta, or Kota : Tiara : Teingo, Dingo, Worregal : Med-di-gen, +War-ri-gal : - : - : -. + +Nails : - : Kolke : Pera : Currungal, or Car-rung-un : - : - : - : -. + +Beard : - : Wol-lar : Nyanuck : Chinis, or Wallo : - : Anany : - : +Ru-ing. + +Mouth : - : - : Tatah : Karga : - : Chuang : Wel'-leck : -. + +Fire : - : - : - : Gwee-yong, or Too-yong : Canby : Warrenur : Cor-yal : +Lope. + +Membrum virile : - : - : Yaw-de-wit : - : - : - : Cool-kah : Lune. + +Head : - : Wageegee (Forster) : - : Cob-bra : Ulangar, or Nattang : +Cah-brah : - : -. + +The preceding brief collection, of words used by the natives in various +parts of the Coasts of Australia and Van Diemen's Land, has been inserted +to show the great dissimilarity that exists in the languages of the +several tribes: and it may be remarked, that of thirty-three objects, one +only, the Eye, is expressed by nearly the same term at each place. In +this list, it is true, there is a striking resemblance between the terms +used to signify the hair at Port Jackson, namely, dewarra, or kewarra, or +gewarroo, and those which denote the same thing in the language of some +of the islands of the Eastern Seas; such, for instance, as arouroo or +hooroo-hooroo of the Society Islands; lo-ooroo of the Friendly Islands; +hooroo of New Zealand; and, perhaps, oouho of the Marquesas:* but at New +Caledonia, which is situated between these places and Port Jackson, the +same thing is expressed by poon, a sound totally distinct. And to render +the anomaly still more decisive, it is only necessary to remark, that, +within two hundred miles of Port Jackson, the natives of three tribes, +Port Macquarie. Burrah-Burrah, and Limestone Creek, signify the hair, by +the words wollack, mundar, and bulla-ye-ga. + +(*Footnote. Forster Observations page 283.) + +The aboriginal connexion of Australia with other lands must be proved, as +far as language is concerned, by a general resemblance of the words, and +not merely by a few examples of coincidence, which can only be considered +as accidental: and as our knowledge of the Australian languages, except +in the vicinity of Port Jackson, does not yet exceed thirty or forty +words, no comparison, derived from such limited information, can be +employed with any certainty to determine the question. The connexion must +be sought for, probably, where the continent, at its north-eastern +extremity, most nearly approaches other lands; but even then the chain +will remain imperfect until New Guinea and its neighbouring islands are +explored, and correct and extensive vocabularies of their languages +obtained. Forster,* who has paid considerable attention to this subject, +and whose opinions are the more valuable from their being the result of +personal observation, seems to be convinced that the New Hollanders are +not an original race, but have derived their origin from New Guinea. It +is therefore to be hoped, that this subject will not be forgotten by our +trans-Atlantic and Australian colonists; more particularly by those of +the new settlement on the north coast at Melville Island, who, from their +vicinity to New Guinea, have the best opportunities of throwing light +upon the question. + +(*Footnote. Ibid.) + +... + +SITUATIONS OF THE PLACES MENTIONED IN THE PRECEDING LIST WITH RESPECT TO +PORT JACKSON. + +King George the Third's Sound is on the South-west Coast, 1660 miles from +Port Jackson. + +Caledon Bay is near the north-west extremity of the Gulf of Carpentaria, +1500 miles from Port Jackson. + +Endeavour River, in latitude about 15 degrees South, is on the North-east +Coast, about 1180 miles from Port Jackson. + +Burrah-Burrah, about 90 miles in the interior, west of Port Jackson. + +Limestone Creek, about 140 miles in the interior, west of Port Jackson. + +Port Macquarie, on the East Coast, 168 miles north of Port Jackson. + +Macquarie Harbour, on the West Coast of Van Diemen's Land. + +Bruny Island, at the south-east extremity of Van Diemen's Land. + + + +END OF VOLUME 2. + + + + + +End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Narrative of a Survey of the +Intertropical and Western Coasts of Australia] [Volume 2 of 2], by Phillip Parker King + +*** END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 12046 *** diff --git a/12046-h/12046-h.htm b/12046-h/12046-h.htm new file mode 100644 index 0000000..44b6f8c --- /dev/null +++ b/12046-h/12046-h.htm @@ -0,0 +1,17421 @@ +<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.01 Transitional//EN"> +<html> +<head> +<title>Narrative of a Survey--Volume 2</title> +<meta http-equiv="Content-Type" content= +"text/html; charset=UTF-8"> +<style type="text/css"> +<!-- +body {background:lightyellow; margin:10%; text-align:justify} +h2,h3,h4,h5,h6 {color:green; text-align:center} +p.poem {text-align:center} +--> +</style> + +</head> +<body> +<div>*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 12046 ***</div> + +<center> +<p><a name="king2-00"></a><img alt="" src="images/king2-00.jpg"></p> +<p><b>WOODCUT 1: NATIVES OF HANOVER BAY ON A RAFT.</b></p> +</center> +<p>Â </p> +<h3>NARRATIVE OF A SURVEY</h3> +<h5>OF THE</h5> +<h4>INTERTROPICAL AND WESTERN</h4> +<h2>COASTS OF AUSTRALIA.</h2> +<h5>PERFORMED BETWEEN</h5> +<h3>THE YEARS 1818 AND 1822.</h3> +<h5>BY</h5> +<h3>CAPTAIN PHILLIP P. KING, R.N., F.R.S., F.L.S.,</h3> +<h5>AND MEMBER OF THE ROYAL ASIATIC SOCIETY OF LONDON.</h5> +<h5>WITH</h5> +<h4>AN APPENDIX,</h4> +<h5>CONTAINING</h5> +<h4>VARIOUS SUBJECTS RELATING TO HYDROGRAPHY AND NATURAL +HISTORY.</h4> +<h3>IN TWO VOLUMES,</h3> +<h4>ILLUSTRATED BY PLATES, CHARTS, AND WOOD-CUTS.</h4> +<h3>VOLUME 2.</h3> +<hr align="center" width="20%"> +<h5>LONDON:</h5> +<h5>JOHN MURRAY, ALBEMARLE STREET.</h5> +<hr align="center" width="20%"> +<center> +<p><a name="king2-01"></a><img alt="" src="images/king2-01.jpg"></p> +<p><b>ENTRANCE OF OYSTER HARBOUR, KING GEORGE THE THIRD'S +SOUND.<br> +Interview with the Natives.<br> +From a sketch by P.P. King. Published in May 1825 by John Murray, +London.</b></p> +</center> +<p>Â </p> +<h3>CONTENTS.</h3> +<h4>VOLUME 2.</h4> +<h5><a href="#chapter01">CHAPTER 1.</a></h5> +<p>Survey upon the mermaid.<br> +Purchase another vessel.<br> +New establishment.<br> +Departure on the fourth voyage, accompanied by a merchant-ship +bound through Torres Strait.<br> +Discovery of an addition to the crew.<br> +Pass round Breaksea Spit, and steer up the East Coast.<br> +Transactions at Percy Island.<br> +Enormous sting-rays.<br> +Pine-trees serviceable for masts.<br> +Joined by a merchant brig.<br> +Anchor under Cape Grafton, Hope Islands, and Lizard Island.<br> +Natives at Lizard Island.<br> +Cape Flinders.<br> +Visit the Frederick's wreck.<br> +Surprised by natives.<br> +Mr. Cunningham's description of the drawings of the natives in a +cavern on Clack's Island.<br> +Anchor in Margaret Bay, and under Cairncross Island.<br> +Accident, and loss of anchors.<br> +Pass through Torres Strait, and visit Goulburn Island.<br> +Affair with the natives.<br> +The Dick parts company.</p> +<h5><a href="#chapter02">CHAPTER 2.</a></h5> +<p>Passage from Cape Van Diemen to Careening Bay.<br> +Not finding water, visit Prince Regent's River, and procure it +from the Cascade.<br> +Farther examination of the river.<br> +Amphibious mud-fish.<br> +Anchor in Halfway Bay, and explore Munster Water and Hanover Bay +in a boat.<br> +Visit Hanover Bay, and procure water and fish.<br> +Interview with natives.<br> +The surgeon speared.<br> +Retaliate upon them, and capture their rafts and weapons.<br> +Description of their implements.<br> +Port George the Fourth.<br> +Islands to the westward.<br> +Red Island of Captain Heywood.<br> +Strong tides.<br> +Camden Bay.<br> +Buccaneer's Archipelago.<br> +Cygnet Bay.<br> +Dangerous situation of the brig.<br> +High and rapid tides.<br> +Cape Leveque.<br> +Examination of the coast to Cape Latouche Treville.<br> +Remarkable effect of mirage.<br> +Leave the coast for Mauritius.<br> +Voyage thither.<br> +Arrival at Port Louis.<br> +Refit.<br> +Some account of the island.</p> +<h5><a href="#chapter03">CHAPTER 3.</a></h5> +<p>Departure from Port Louis.<br> +Voyage to the South-west Coast of New Holland.<br> +Anchor in King George the Third's Sound.<br> +Occurrences there.<br> +Visited by the Natives.<br> +Our intercourse with them.<br> +Descriptions of their weapons and other implements.<br> +Vocabulary of their language.<br> +Meteorological and other observations.<br> +Edible plants.<br> +Testaceous productions.</p> +<h5><a href="#chapter04">CHAPTER 4.</a></h5> +<p>Leave King George the Third's Sound, and commence the survey +of the West Coast at Rottnest Island.<br> +Another remarkable effect of mirage.<br> +Anchor under, and land upon Rottnest Island.<br> +Break an anchor.<br> +Examine the coast to the northward.<br> +Cape Leschenault.<br> +Lancelin Island.<br> +Jurien Bay.<br> +Houtman's Abrolhos.<br> +Moresby's Flat-topped Range.<br> +Red Point.<br> +Anchor in Dirk Hartog's Road, at the entrance of Shark's Bay.<br> +Occurrences there.<br> +Examination of the coast to the North-west Cape.<br> +Barrow Island.<br> +Heavy gale off the Montebello Isles.<br> +Rowley's Shoals.<br> +Cape Leveque.<br> +Dangerous situation of the brig among the islands of Buccaneer's +Archipelago.<br> +Examination and description of Cygnet Bay.<br> +Lose an anchor, and leave the coast.<br> +Adele Island.<br> +Return to Port Jackson.</p> +<h5><a href="#chapter05">CHAPTER 5.</a></h5> +<p>The Bathurst sails for England.<br> +Remarks upon some errors in the hydrography of the south coast of +Van Diemen's Land.<br> +King George the Third's Sound.<br> +Passage to the Cape of Good Hope.<br> +Cross the Atlantic, and arrive at Plymouth Sound.<br> +Observations upon the voyages, and conclusion.</p> +<h5><a href="#appendixA">APPENDIX A.</a></h5> +<p>SECTION 1.</p> +<p>Of the winds and currents, and description of the ports, +islands, and coast between Port Jackson and Breaksea Spit.</p> +<p>SECTION 2.</p> +<p>Description of the winds and weather, and of the ports, +islands, and coast between Breaksea Spit and Cape York.</p> +<p>SECTION 3.</p> +<p>Description of the winds and weather, and of the ports and +coast between Wessel's Islands and Clarence Strait.</p> +<p>SECTION 4.</p> +<p>Of the nature of the winds and the description of the coast +between Clarence Strait and the North-west Cape.</p> +<p>SECTION 5.</p> +<p>Of the winds and weather, and description of the Western Coast +between the North-west Cape and Cape Leeuwin.</p> +<p>SECTION 6.</p> +<p>Of the winds and weather upon the South Coast. Directions for +King George the Third's Sound, and hydrographical remarks +relating to Bass Strait.</p> +<p>SECTION 7.</p> +<p>Description of the shoals and reefs in the neighbourhood of +the coasts of Australia.</p> +<p>SECTION 8.</p> +<p>Directions for the passage within the reefs through Torres +Strait.</p> +<p>SECTION 9.</p> +<p>Dip of the magnetic needle.</p> +<p>SECTION 10.</p> +<p>Upon the geographical positions of the fixed points of the +survey.</p> +<h5><a href="#appendixB">APPENDIX B.</a></h5> +<p>Containing a list and description of the subjects of natural +history collected during Captain King's survey of the +Intertropical and Western Coasts of Australia.</p> +<h5><a href="#appendixC">APPENDIX C.</a></h5> +<p>Geology.</p> +<h5><a href="#appendixD">APPENDIX D.</a></h5> +<p>Language of the Natives.</p> +<h4>LIST OF PLATES.</h4> +<h5>VOLUME 2.</h5> +<p><a href="#king2-00">WOODCUT 1: NATIVES OF HANOVER BAY ON A +RAFT.</a></p> +<p><a href="#king2-01">ENTRANCE OF OYSTER HARBOUR, KING GEORGE +THE THIRD'S SOUND.<br> +Interview with the Natives.<br> +From a sketch by P.P. King. Published in May 1825 by John Murray, +London.</a></p> +<p><a href="#king2-02">VIEW OF THE CASCADE IN PRINCE REGENT'S +RIVER.<br> +From a sketch by P.P. King. Published in May 1825 by John Murray, +London.</a></p> +<p><a href="#king2-03">WEAPONS ETC. OF THE NATIVES OF HANOVER +BAY.<br> +1. Stone Spear Head (Full size.) From a Drawing by F. Chantrey, +Esquire, F.R.S.<br> +2. Section of a Stone Spear Head (Full size.) From a Drawing by +F. Chantrey, Esquire, F.R.S.<br> +3. Spear armed with the Stone head.<br> +4. Throwing-stick.<br> +5. Hatchet.<br> +Published in May 1825 by John Murray, London.</a></p> +<p><a href="#king2-04">WOODCUT 2: RAFT OF THE NATIVES OF HANOVER +BAY.</a></p> +<p><a href="#king2-05">WOODCUT 3: WEAPONS AND IMPLEMENTS OF THE +NATIVES OF KING GEORGE THE THIRD'S SOUND: MEARA OR +THROWING-STICK.</a></p> +<p><a href="#king2-06">WOODCUT 4: WEAPONS AND IMPLEMENTS OF THE +NATIVES OF KING GEORGE THE THIRD'S SOUND: METHOD OF PROPULSION OF +SPEAR BY A MEARA OR THROWING-STICK.</a></p> +<p><a href="#king2-07">WOODCUT 5: WEAPONS AND IMPLEMENTS OF THE +NATIVES OF KING GEORGE THE THIRD'S SOUND: KAOIT OR +HAMMER.</a></p> +<p><a href="#king2-08">WOODCUT 6: WEAPONS AND IMPLEMENTS OF THE +NATIVES OF KING GEORGE THE THIRD'S SOUND: TAAP OR KNIFE.</a></p> +<p><a href="#king2-09">VIEW OF FORT DUNDAS, TAKEN FROM GARDEN +POINT.<br> +CHART OF PORT COCKBURN AT MELVILLE ISLAND.<br> +Plan of Port Cockburn, between Bathurst and Melville Islands.<br> +From a survey made by Lieutenant J.S. ROE in October 1824.<br> +PLAN OF KING'S COVE.</a></p> +<p><a href="#king2-10">SKETCH 1: ISLANDS OFF ADMIRALTY GULF, +LOOKING SOUTHWARD FROM THE NORTH-EAST END OF CASSINI ISLAND. Left +to right: Corneille, Fenelon, Descartes, and Pascal Islands, +Hills on Cape Voltaire, Condillac Island, and East end of Cassini +Island (Peron's Atlas, plate 6, figure 7) and the outline of the +Iles Forbin (Peron's Atlas, plate 8, figure 5).<br> +SKETCH 2: ISLANDS OFF ADMIRALTY GULF, LOOKING SOUTHWARD FROM THE +NORTH-EAST END OF CASSINI ISLAND. Left to right: Peak upon Cape +Voltaire and Condillac Island, bearing South, two miles distant. +Several drawings of Captain King.</a></p> +<p><a href="#king2-11">SKETCH 3: TWO CONSPICUOUS HILLS NORTH-EAST +OF PRINCE-REGENT'S RIVER. Left to right: Mount Trafalgar and +Mount Waterloo.</a></p> +<p><a href="#king2-12">MAP OF THE CHAINS OF ISLANDS ON THE +NORTH-WEST COAST OF CARPENTARIA</a></p> +<p><a href="#king2-13">SKETCH 4: CLIFF OF CONSIDERABLE HEIGHT, IN +WHICH THE BEDS, THOUGH INACCESSIBLE AT THE TOP, MAY BE EXAMINED +WITH EASE AND SECURITY, WHERE THEY COME DOWN TO THE +SHORE.</a></p> +<p><a href="#king2-14">SKETCH 5: HAMMER FOR COLLECTING GEOLOGICAL +SPECIMENS.</a></p> +<p><a href="#king2-15">SKETCH 6: SMALL HAMMER FOR TRIMMING +GEOLOGICAL SPECIMENS.</a></p> +<p><a href="#king2-16">SKETCH 7: SMALL STONE-CUTTER'S +CHISEL.</a></p> +<p><a href="#king2-17">TABLE A.<br> +Chlamydosaurus kingii.<br> +The plate was engraved by Mr. Curtis, from an exceedingly correct +drawing made by Henry C. Field, Esquire. Fel. Coll. Surg.<br> +Published by John Murray, Albemarle Street, March, 1826.</a></p> +<p><a href="#king2-18">TABLE B.<br> +Carpophagus banksiae.<br> +Megamerus kingii.<br> +Phasma tiaratum.<br> +Drawn by Miss M.L. Field. J. Curtis sculp.<br> +Published by John Murray, Albemarle Street, March, 1826.</a></p> +<p><a href="#king2-19">TABLE C.<br> +Kingia Australis.<br> +Curtis, Id et sculp.<br> +Published by John Murray, Albemarle Street.</a></p> +<h2>VOYAGES FOR THE SURVEY<br> +OF THE<br> +INTERTROPICAL COASTS<br> +OF<br> +AUSTRALIA.</h2> +<hr align="center" width="20%"> +<p><a name="chapter01"></a></p> +<h3>CHAPTER 1.</h3> +<blockquote>Survey upon the mermaid.<br> +Purchase another vessel.<br> +New establishment.<br> +Departure on the fourth voyage, accompanied by a merchant-ship +bound through Torres Strait.<br> +Discovery of an addition to the crew.<br> +Pass round Breaksea Spit, and steer up the East Coast.<br> +Transactions at Percy Island.<br> +Enormous sting-rays.<br> +Pine-trees serviceable for masts.<br> +Joined by a merchant brig.<br> +Anchor under Cape Grafton, Hope Islands, and Lizard Island.<br> +Natives at Lizard Island.<br> +Cape Flinders.<br> +Visit the Frederick's wreck.<br> +Surprised by natives.<br> +Mr. Cunningham's description of the drawings of the natives in a +cavern on Clack's Island.<br> +Anchor in Margaret Bay, and under Cairncross Island.<br> +Accident, and loss of anchors.<br> +Pass through Torres Strait, and visit Goulburn Island.<br> +Affair with the natives.<br> +The Dick parts company.</blockquote> +<p>1820. December 6.</p> +<p>As soon as the opportunity offered after our arrival, the +cutter was laid on shore upon the beach of Sydney Cove, and +surveyed by the master and the carpenter of H.M. Store-Ship +Dromedary, which ship was preparing for her return to England +with a cargo of New Zealand spars. Upon stripping the copper off +the bottom, the tide flowed into her, and proved that to the +copper sheathing alone we were indebted for our safe return. The +iron spikes that fastened her were entirely decayed, and a +considerable repair was recommended by the surveying officers. +Upon my communicating the result of their report to His +Excellency, Governor Macquarie, he agreed with me in thinking +that, as her repairs would take up so much time, it would be +better to purchase another vessel, and as a brig was then in the +harbour, that appeared to be every way suited for my purpose, she +was examined by my order by Mr. Mart, the Dromedary's carpenter, +who reported so favourably of her, that, by the governor's +permission, she was purchased and fitted for the voyage. She was +built of teak, of one hundred and seventy tons burden, and had +lately received a very considerable repair at Calcutta; so that, +excepting a few trifling defects and alterations, she was quite +fit for sea. Her name was altered at the suggestion of Governor +Macquarie to that of the Bathurst.</p> +<p>By this change we gained a great addition to our comforts; +and, besides increasing the number of our crew, were much better +off in regard to boats; for we now possessed a long-boat, large +enough to carry out and weigh an anchor, or save the crew if any +accident should happen to the vessel; a resource which we did not +possess in the Mermaid.</p> +<p>A further addition was made to our party by the appointment of +Mr. Perceval Baskerville, one of the Dromedary's midshipman; but +Mr. Hunter the surgeon, who had volunteered his services in the +Mermaid during the last voyage, was superseded by Mr. A. +Montgomery, who had lately arrived in charge of a convict +ship.</p> +<p>Our establishment now consisted of the following officers and +men:</p> +<p>Lieutenant and Commander: Phillip Parker King.<br> +Surgeon: Andrew Montgomery.<br> + Master's Mates (Assistant Surveyors):<br> + Frederick Bedwell.<br> +John S. Roe.<br> +Midshipman: Perceval Baskerville.<br> +Botanical Collector: Allan Cunningham.<br> +Steward.<br> +Boatswain's Mate.<br> +Carpenter's Mate.<br> +Sail Maker.<br> +Cook.<br> +Seamen: 16.<br> +Boys: 5.</p> +<p>Total: 32.</p> +<p>1821. May 26.</p> +<p>After experiencing many tedious and unexpected delays in +equipping the Bathurst, notwithstanding our wants were few, and +the greater part of our repairs were effected by our own people, +we were not completed for sea until the 26th of May, when we +sailed from Port Jackson upon our fourth and last voyage to the +north coast, accompanied by the merchant-ship Dick (the same +vessel in which we had originally embarked from England): she was +bound to Batavia, and being ready for sailing at the time of our +departure, requested permission to accompany us through Torres +Strait, which, since it would rather prove an assistance to us +than cause any delay in our proceedings, was acceded to on my +part with much satisfaction. In the mean time the Mermaid, our +late vessel, had been thoroughly repaired, fresh fastened with +copper spikes, and fitted out; and, before we sailed, had been +sent to sea to carry the first establishment to Port Macquarie, +on which service she had been wrecked. She was, however, +afterwards got off the rocks and repaired, and is now a very +serviceable vessel in the colony.</p> +<p>Boongaree, the native who had formerly accompanied us, +volunteered his services whilst the vessel was preparing for the +voyage, which I gladly accepted; but when the day of departure +drew nigh, he kept aloof; and the morning that we sailed, his +place was filled by another volunteer, Bundell; who proved not +only to be a more active seaman, but was of much greater service +to us, than his countryman Boongaree had been. This addition made +our number thirty-three.</p> +<p>May 30.</p> +<p>Three days after we left the port, a discovery was made of +another addition to the number of the crew. Upon opening the +hold, which had been locked ever since the day before we sailed, +a young girl, not more than fourteen years of age, was found +concealed among the casks, where she had secreted herself in +order to accompany the boatswain to sea: upon being brought on +deck, she was in a most pitiable plight, for her dress and +appearance were so filthy, from four days' close confinement in a +dark hold, and from having been dreadfully seasick the whole +time, that her acquaintances, of which she had many on board, +could scarcely recognise her. Upon being interrogated, she +declared she had, unknown to all on board, concealed herself in +the hold the day before the vessel sailed; and that her swain +knew nothing of the step she had taken. As it was now +inconvenient to return to put her on shore, and as the man +consented to share his ration with her, she was allowed to +remain; but in a very short time heartily repented of her +imprudence, and would gladly have been re-landed, had it been +possible.</p> +<p>1821. June 4.</p> +<p>Between the 30th and the 4th of June we had a series of gales +of wind, which enabled us to prove the capabilities of our new +ship; and it was very satisfactory to find that she was +weatherly, tight, and dry, three very essential qualities for a +surveying vessel.</p> +<p>June 5.</p> +<p>On the afternoon of the 5th we passed round the north end of +Breaksea Spit, and crossed Hervey's Bay; in the night, when the +brig ought to have been many miles from the shore, we found +ourselves unexpectedly close to some land; but it was not until +the day broke that we knew the full extent of the danger we had +encountered: the land we had seen proved to be the round head of +Bustard Bay, which, as the wind was blowing directly upon it, we +were fortunate in having room to clear. The Dick was apprized by +us of the danger in time, and succeeded in clearing the land by +tacking to the southward.</p> +<p>June 6.</p> +<p>At noon we were passing the small woody isle that was seen by +Captain Flinders, and farther on we discovered two other isles of +a similar character: they were seen from the masthead to the +north-east; and a fourth was seen by the Dick. After this we had +a few days of fine weather, which, as dysentery had already made +its appearance amongst us, was most welcome, and tended +materially to check the progress of so alarming a complaint.</p> +<p>June 8.</p> +<p>On the 8th we entered among the Northumberland Islands.</p> +<p>June 10.</p> +<p>But, from light northerly winds, did not reach an anchorage +under Percy Island, Number 2, until the morning of the 10th. Our +situation was between the Pine Islets and the basin, in ten +fathoms, near a run of water, which fell from the rocks into the +sea at about a quarter of a mile to the northward of the sandy +beach: from this stream we filled our casks. Water was also found +in many other parts, but all the runs appeared to be of temporary +duration.</p> +<p>June 11.</p> +<p>This island, like Number 1, which we visited in 1819, appears +to be principally of quartzose formation. The soil is sandy, and +affords but little nourishment to the stunted trees with which it +is furnished. In the more barren and rocky parts the pine was +abundant, but not growing to any great size: the Dick's people +cut down and embarked several logs; on examination they were +thought to be useless; but, from subsequent experience, they +proved to be far from deserving such contempt, for during the +voyage we made two pole-top gallant-masts of it; which, although +very full of knots, were as tough as any spar I ever saw; and +carried a press of sail longer than would be trusted on many +masts. These trees are very abundant on the Cumberland and +Northumberland Islands, but do not attain any large size; being +seldom higher than fifty or sixty feet, or of a greater diameter +than from twelve to eighteen inches.</p> +<p>Among the variety of birds, several black cockatoos and the +pheasant cuckoo were seen. The beaches were frequented by gulls, +terns, and oyster-catchers; and an egret was noticed of a +slate-coloured plumage, with a small ruff upon its head.</p> +<p>The seine was hauled upon the beach; but the only fish caught +were two very large sting-rays; one of which measured twelve feet +across: as it was too unwieldy to take on board, we had no means +of weighing it; but the liver nearly filled a small pork barrel.* +It is very probable that our bad success may be attributed to the +presence of these fish, for on board the Dick several snappers +were caught with the hook and line.</p> +<blockquote>(*Footnote. Captain Cook describes some fish, +probably of the same species, found at Botany Bay, weighing each +three hundred and thirty-six pounds (Hawkesworth volume 3 page +100); from which circumstance, as it is not generally known, the +name of Sting-ray Bay was given to that harbour; it is so-called +in the charts of the Endeavour's voyage, in the Hydrographical +Office at the Admiralty, as well as in Sir Joseph Banks' copy of +the Endeavour's journal, and in Dr. Solander's manuscript +journal, both of which are in the possession of my friend Robert +Brown, Esquire. The name by which it is now known appears to have +been given subsequently, on account of the variety and beauty of +its botanical productions.)</blockquote> +<p>In the evening the wind set in from South by East, with rain, +and cloudy, thick weather: in striking the royal masts, a serious +defect was discovered in our fore-top-mast; the upper part being +found rotten for twelve feet below the head; and the +top-gallant-mast was also found to be sprung in the wake of the +cap.</p> +<p>June 12.</p> +<p>So that we were compelled to remain all the next day at the +anchorage to shift them. This detention was very vexatious, for +we were not only losing a fair wind, but lying in a very exposed +situation.</p> +<p>During the preceding night a brig anchored half a mile to the +southward of us: she proved to be the San Antonio; she left Port +Jackson four days after us, and was bound on a trading +speculation to the Moluccas and Singapore. In the forenoon I +visited the master, Mr. Hemmans, and offered him my guidance up +the coast, if he would wait until we had shifted our defective +masts; but he declined it as he was anxious to get on without +delay; and, having Captain Flinders' charts, intended to run "DAY +AND NIGHT THROUGH THE REEFS;" he told me that he had anchored +here with the intention of watering and cutting some pine spars, +but that not finding the latter worth the trouble, he was then +getting underweigh to proceed. When I went away, he accompanied +me to look over my plan of the passage; after which he returned +to his vessel, which soon afterwards steered past us on her way +to the northward. Mr. Hemmans told me that he had anchored under +Keppel Islands, where he had a friendly communication with the +natives, who used nets, which he thought were of European +construction; but from his description, they are similar to what +have been before seen on the coast, and are constructed by the +natives themselves.</p> +<p>June 13.</p> +<p>At eight o'clock the next morning we got underweigh; but the +Dick in weighing her anchor found both flukes broken off.</p> +<p>June 14.</p> +<p>The next day, we rounded the north extremity of the Cumberland +Islands.</p> +<p>June 15.</p> +<p>And at four o'clock a.m. the 15th, were abreast of Cape +Gloucester.</p> +<p>Thick cloudy weather with rain and a fresh breeze from the +southward, variable between South-South-East and +South-South-West, now set in, and was unfavourable for our seeing +the coast as we passed it: Cape Bowling Green was not seen, but +the gradual decrease of soundings from eighteen to fourteen +fathoms, and the subsequent increase of depth, indicated our +having passed this low and dangerous projection.</p> +<p>June 16.</p> +<p>At daylight of the 16th, we passed outside the Palm Islands at +the distance of five miles.</p> +<p>The weather continued so thick and rainy, that Mount +Hinchinbrook was quite concealed from our view; but a partial +glimpse of the land enabled me to distinguish Point Hillock, and +afterwards to see Cape Sandwich, Goold Island, and the group of +the Family Isles.</p> +<p>June 17.</p> +<p>In passing the largest Frankland Island, the San Antonio was +seen lying at anchor near it, with her fore topsail loose, firing +guns: seeing this, we hauled to the wind, and made sail to beat +up towards her, under the idea of her being in distress; but as +we approached, we observed a boat alongside, and her top-gallant +yards across, which were proofs that she was not in such +immediate danger, as to require our beating up, with the risk of +losing some of our spars, for the Dick had already sprung her +jib-boom; we, therefore, hove the vessels to, and soon afterwards +the San Antonio joined and passed under our stern, when Mr. +Hemmans informed me that the guns he had fired were intended as +signals to his boat, and that they were not meant for us. He had +been aground, he said, on a reef near the Palm Islands, but had +received no damage: light, however, as he pretended to make of +this accident, it was a sufficient lesson for him, and we soon +found he had profited by it, for instead of preceding us, he +quietly fell into our wake, a station which he never afterwards +left, until all danger was over, and we had passed through Torres +Strait.</p> +<p>I had now determined upon taking up an anchorage round Cape +Grafton during the continuance of the bad weather, and for that +purpose steered through the strait that separates the cape from +Fitzroy Island; and anchored in six fathoms mud, at about half a +mile from its northern extremity.</p> +<p>It is little remarkable that the day on which we anchored +should be the anniversary of the discovery of the bay; for +Captain Cook anchored here on the eve of Trinity Sunday, +fifty-one years before, and named the bay between Capes Grafton +and Tribulation, in reverence of the following day. In passing +between Cape Grafton and Fitzroy Island, eight or ten natives +were observed seated on the rocks at the south end of the beach: +one of them waved his spear to us as we passed, but the distance +was too great to take any notice of him.</p> +<p>In the afternoon we landed upon the small island in the bay, +and found it to be separated from the mainland by a very shoal +channel, through which our boat had some difficulty in passing; +the island is small, and formed of loose fragments of granite, +over which the decomposed vegetable matter had formed a soil, +which, although shallow, was sufficient to nourish some luxuriant +grass (panicum) and a robust species of eucalyptus: among these +large flights of cockatoos and parroquets were hovering, but they +were very shy, and did not allow us to approach them: a small +dove, common to other parts of the coast, was killed. A native +was seen walking along a sandy beach behind the island, but +proceeded without noticing our boat, which was at that time +passing.</p> +<p>June 18.</p> +<p>The following day the weather was so clear that, in the early +part of the morning, we distinctly saw the summit of the land at +the back of Cape Tribulation, bearing North 43 degrees West +(magnetic); it must have been fifty-five or sixty miles off; the +fall of the land towards the extremity of the cape was also seen, +bearing North 35 degrees 50 minutes West fifty-six miles.</p> +<p>In the afternoon I went on shore near the north extremity of +the Cape, to procure some bearings; after which we strolled +about, and found a temporary stream of water falling into the +sea. In walking past a grove of pandanus trees, which grew near +the water, we disturbed a prodigious quantity of bronze-winged +butterflies, reminding us, in point of number, of the Euploea +hamata, at Cape Cleveland in 1819. It proved to be a variety of +the Urania orontes (Godart) of Amboyna and the other Indian +Islands. Mr. Cunningham took advantage of the Dick's boat going +to the bottom of the bay, to cut grass: near their landing-place +he found some natives' huts; some of which were of more +substantial construction than usual, and were thatched with palm +leaves: inside of one he found a fishing rod, and a line, five or +six fathoms long, furnished with a hook made from a shell, like +the hooks of the South Sea Islanders: he also found a small +basket, made from the leaf of a palm-tree, lying near the remains +of their fireplaces, which were strewed with broken exuviae of +their shell-fish repasts.</p> +<p>A canoe twelve feet long, similar to the one described at +Blomfield's Rivulet (volume 1) was also seen; and, like it, was +not more than nine inches wide at the bilge. A small kangaroo was +seen by Mr. Cunningham feeding upon the grass, but fled the +moment that it saw him approaching.</p> +<p>Nothing more was seen of the natives, nor were any heard, or +suspected of being near us; had there been any number the party +would have been placed in an awkward situation, for upon landing, +they all incautiously, and very imprudently, separated, to amuse +themselves as they were inclined, without regarding the situation +of the boat, which was soon left dry by the ebbing tide; and it +was eight o'clock at night before they succeeded in launching +her. Immediately after its return, for which we had been waiting +four hours, we got underweigh, and were only just in time to save +the breeze, which carried us out into the offing: after a short +calm, the wind gradually freshened from South-South-West, and we +steered on under easy sail towards Cape Tribulation.</p> +<p>June 19.</p> +<p>On passing the cape two reefs were seen to seaward, which had +previously escaped our notice.</p> +<p>In the afternoon we anchored in ten fathoms, at about half a +mile from the north-west end of the reef that stretches for two +miles to the northward of the south-westernmost Hope Island; and, +as it was low water and the reef uncovered, we walked across it. +It is formed principally of coral, on the surface of which we +found the gray trepang; a small Chama gigas, a cypraea, a pretty +azure-coloured species of asteria, and a few bivalve shells. The +few birds that frequented the reef were very shy, and flew away +at our approach: they were principally pelicans and terns.</p> +<p>June 20.</p> +<p>After weighing the next morning, we steered North 1/2 West, a +course farther to seaward than we had previously taken, in order +to see the reefs more distinctly, and to prove the width and +extent of this part of the channel; but the sun was shining in +the direction of our course, and the shadows of the clouds upon +the water were at times so deceptious that, whilst they often +caused appearances of reefs where none existed, they concealed +others that, for the same reason, were not seen until we were +close to them. Having now the charge of two merchant-vessels, it +was necessary to proceed with caution, and therefore we steered +nearly over our last year's track, but notwithstanding, we now +discovered several new reefs, and informed ourselves of the +extent and shape of others which had escaped our previous +observation.</p> +<p>As we were rounding the two islands that lie close to the +south side of Lizard Island, a native was seen in a canoe, +paddling towards another who was sitting on the rocks watching +our movements; and, as we hauled round the south point of the +bay, two others were observed walking towards the beach; upon +seeing us they stopped short and retreated up the hill; but, +after we anchored and sent a boat on shore, which was accompanied +by one from the Dick, they advanced, and without much hesitation, +came forward and communicated with our party. They carried spears +with them, and each of our gentlemen had their fowling-pieces: +the appearance of Bundell, who on these occasions always took his +clothes off, perhaps gave them greater confidence. After some +vociferous and unintelligible parley, one of our gentlemen, in +order to give them further cause for the surprise which they had +already manifested to a great extent, unadvisedly fired his +fowling-piece; upon which, as might be expected, they became +distrustful and frightened, and, fixing their spears in their +throwing sticks, walked backwards at a quick pace, and withdrew +altogether towards the hills.</p> +<p>Lizard Island, and the Direction Isles to the south-westward, +are of very different character to the other islands which front +this coast, being high, rising to peaks, and of granitic +formation. Captain Cook, in his description of Lizard Island, +mentions it as being a good place to refresh at, on account of +its supplying both wood and water; but, at the same time we were +there, the latter was not found, although the rain had been +lately falling in great quantity; with the former, however, it is +well supplied. This island, from its connection with Captain +Cook's misfortunes during his perilous navigation within the +reefs, will always be an interesting feature in the history of +the discovery and examination of this coast, and deserves a more +appropriate appellation.</p> +<p>June 21.</p> +<p>Leaving Lizard Island the following morning, we directed our +course for Cape Flinders, over our last year's track. Upon +passing Port Ninian, the sea was observed to break heavily upon +the Barrier Reefs, which in this part approach nearer to the +mainland than at any other. As we doubled Cape Melville, the +wind, as usual, freshened up to a strong breeze, and carried us +rapidly across Bathurst Bay: to the westward of the cape several +natives were observed walking upon the beach.</p> +<p>In passing round Cape Flinders, there appeared to be a +considerable diminution in the remains of the Frederick's wreck. +No vestige was left of her stern or forecastle, both of which +were before so very conspicuous. At half-past five o'clock we +anchored with our companions near the usual place.</p> +<p>June 22.</p> +<p>The following morning, at daybreak, a party of men went to the +wreck to collect the spars and planks that had escaped the +mischievous fires of the natives; and at five o'clock I joined +them with the master of the Dick and Mr. Roe, ordering Mr. +Bedwell to relieve the shore party with some fresh hands at eight +o'clock. When the time arrived, supposing that the relief-party +had nearly reached the shore, I sent the people over the hill, in +order to be ready when the boat arrived to go on board; and in +the meantime amused myself in wandering about the reef near the +wreck, where Mr. Roe was also employed. Mr. Harrison (the master +of the Dick) was at the further end of the beach with his fowling +piece, with two of his boat's crew picking up shells: when +suddenly they were surprised by hearing a loud shout, and seeing +several spears strike the rocks about them: upon looking round, +Mr. Harrison found that a party of natives were advancing upon +him with their spears poised; upon which he presented his gun at +the foremost, but, from his having waded about in the water, the +powder had got damp and would not go off. Immediately that I +heard the shout of the natives, and saw Mr. Harrison retreating +from the Indians, who were in close pursuit, I hastened to his +assistance, and came up in time to prevent them from doing any +mischief; and, by occasionally levelling my gun, kept them at bay +whilst we retreated towards the wreck, from which we were about +half a mile distant. By this time Mr. Roe, who had also heard the +noise, joined; but, as he had not a gun, the only assistance he +brought was an addition to our number. Among the four foremost of +the natives was a mischievous boy, who, being emboldened by our +not firing, and showing an anxiety to get away from them, fixed +his spear and aimed it at me; upon which I fired my gun, but, as +it was only loaded with small shot, it had no effect at the +distance he was from me; the noise, however, arrested their +pursuit for a moment; and by the time they recovered their +surprise, I had reloaded with ball, but to my great +mortification, upon presenting the gun to deter the boy from +throwing his spear again, it missed fire: the weapon, which at +first was aimed at me, was then thrown at one of the Dick's men, +and, piercing his hat, which he was carrying at his breast, +fortunately, full of shells, only slightly wounded one of his +fingers. The man, who to all appearance was dangerously wounded, +for the spear stuck in the hat and hung suspended in the air, +drew it out, and, throwing it on the ground with the greatest +composure, continued to retreat. The natives then finding we were +not intimidated or hurt by the spears, began to make friendly +gestures, which we, of course, returned, but still continued to +walk away with our faces turned towards them.</p> +<p>We were now only four in number (for I had despatched one of +the Dick's people to recall our boat, and to order the crew over +to our assistance) and being without any means, or show of +defence, it required much caution and management on our part to +prevent their throwing any more spears; for they were now within +a few yards of us: their ferocity, however, began to diminish, as +their attention was taken by our clothes and a silk handkerchief +which Mr. Roe held out to them: they were about ten in number, of +whom five or six were armed with spears. Our only safety now was +in letting them approach, and amusing them by a display of our +silk handkerchiefs and other parts of our dress, and making all +the grimaces and monkey-like gestures we could think of.</p> +<p>Among the natives was a young woman, whom they repeatedly +offered to us by using the most significant signs; which she also +endeavoured to strengthen by appropriate gestures on her part; +but our inclinations were not consonant with the opportunity so +pressingly, but so suspiciously, offered. After our declining +this honour, they occasionally laid their hands upon our clothes +to detain us, but it did not require much force to make them quit +their hold. One of the men having seized my gun, I drew it out of +his hand rather roughly; but, accompanied at the same moment with +the friendly gesture of patting his breast, the recovery was +happily effected without exciting his anger.</p> +<p>In this manner, and with great fatigue, we continued our +retreat across the reef, and reached the wreck without any signs +of our people coming to our assistance; when the natives found we +intended to walk round the point, they divided, and gave their +spears to a party that went over the hills, as it were, to cut us +off; but in this intention, if they entertained it, they were +disappointed, for our boat was there, and the crew all embarked, +ready to shove off, little expecting ever to see us again. The +idea of being thus easily deserted by our people was for a moment +mortifying, but I ordered some of the crew on shore, and by our +numbers kept the natives amused on the beach, while Mr. Harrison +shoved off in his gig to give the alarm, and to order some +muskets to be sent for our protection: by the time, however, that +Mr. Bedwell arrived, we had succeeded in making friends with the +natives; who, upon perceiving that we had now in our turn the +superiority, began to draw away, and appeared to be as anxious to +get rid of us as we had been, half an hour before, to escape from +them; but we accompanied them halfway across the reef, watching +an opportunity to seize the boy who had wounded the Dick's man, +whom I intended to keep a prisoner while we were here, and then +to dismiss him with presents, to show that we were not inimical +to them, although angry at being so treacherously attacked. My +intention, however, was probably suspected, for they avoided our +approaching sufficiently near them to effect my purpose with the +certainty of success, I therefore called our people away to +resume their work at the wreck, and, after leaving orders with +Mr. Bedwell not to fire but in self-defence, and if an +opportunity offered, to seize the boy, went on board with the +party to breakfast. I had not, however, left the shore long +before hostilities again commenced, and several shots were +mischievously fired at the natives by some of the Dick's and San +Antonio's people, who, being advanced, had very improperly +endeavoured to cut off three of them, upon which one of the +natives poised his spear with a threat of throwing it, when +several muskets were fired at these miserable wretches, who, +fortunately for them, got clear off; although one of them by his +limping appeared to have been struck in the leg.</p> +<p>After this we saw nothing more of them for the day. Mr. +Bedwell was employed with his party at the wreck, whilst Mr. +Cunningham traversed the hills in the vicinity, for it was not +safe to trust himself at any distance from our people, since the +natives would not have failed, had they met with an opportunity, +to punish us for our broken faith.</p> +<p>June 23.</p> +<p>The following day, on the return of our people from the wreck, +they reported that the natives had shown themselves on the +opposite side of the bay; I therefore went to the shore with Mr. +Harrison, to endeavour to make peace, but saw no signs of them, +excepting a smoke on the next island, to which they had probably +retired. On the following day they were again seen, and fired +upon by the boat's crew of the Dick.</p> +<p>All these events gave me much concern, not only because the +natives may be induced to attack and take revenge upon strangers +who may subsequently pass this way, but also because they must +have imbibed a very poor idea of the effect of our arms, when so +many muskets were fired without doing them any mischief: and, but +for the sake of humanity, I could almost have wished that one had +been killed.</p> +<p>The day after we arrived here, a boat from the San Antonio +conveyed Mr. Montgomery and Mr. Cunningham to Clack's Island. The +reef abounded with shells, of which they brought back a large +collection, but not in any great variety; an indifferent cypraea +was the most common; but there were also some volutae and other +shells, besides trepang and asteriae, in abundance. Mr. +Cunningham observed a singularly curious cavern upon the rock, of +which he gave me a description in the following account of the +island:</p> +<p>"The south and south-eastern extremes of Clack's Island +presented a steep, rocky bluff, thinly covered with small trees. +I ascended the steep head, which rose to an elevation of a +hundred and eighty feet above the sea. I found simply the plants +of the main, namely, Mimusops parvifolia, Br.; Hoya nivea, +Cunningham manuscript; Acacia plectocarpa, Cunningham manuscript; +Chionanthus axillaris, Br.; Notelaea punctata, Br.; some alyxiae, +and the small orange-fruited ficus, which grew in the thickets, +and, by insinuating its roots in the interstices of the rocks, +clothed a great portion of the inaccessible front of the +island.</p> +<p>"The remarkable structure of the geological feature of this +islet led me to examine the south-east part, which was the most +exposed to the weather, and where the disposition of the strata +was of course more plainly developed. The base is a coarse, +granular, siliceous sandstone, in which large pebbles of quartz +and jasper are embedded: this stratum continues for sixteen to +twenty feet above the water: for the next ten feet there is a +horizontal stratum of black schistose rock, which was of so soft +a consistence, that the weather had excavated several tiers of +galleries; upon the roof and sides of which some curious drawings +were observed, which deserve to be particularly described: they +were executed upon a ground of red ochre (rubbed on the black +schistus) and were delineated by dots of a white argillaceous +earth, which had been worked up into a paste. They represented +tolerable figures of sharks, porpoises, turtles, lizards (of +which I saw several small ones among the rocks) trepang, +star-fish, clubs, canoes, water-gourds, and some quadrupeds, +which were probably intended to represent kangaroos and dogs. The +figures, besides being outlined by the dots, were decorated all +over with the same pigment in dotted transverse belts. Tracing a +gallery round to windward, it brought me to a commodious cave, or +recess, overhung by a portion of the schistus, sufficiently large +to shelter twenty natives, whose recent fireplaces appeared on +the projecting area of the cave.</p> +<p>"Many turtles' heads were placed on the shelfs or niches of +the excavation, amply demonstrative of the luxurious and profuse +mode of life these outcasts of society had, at a period rather +recently, followed. The roof and sides of this snug retreat were +also entirely covered with the uncouth figures I have already +described.</p> +<p>"As this is the first specimen of Australian taste in the fine +arts that we have detected in these voyages, it became me to make +a particular observation thereon: Captain Flinders had discovered +figures on Chasm Island, in the Gulf of Carpentaria, formed with +a burnt stick; but this performance, exceeding a hundred and +fifty figures, which must have occupied much time, appears at +least to be one step nearer refinement than those simply executed +with a piece of charred wood. Immediately above this schistose +stratum is a superincumbent mass of sandstone, which appeared to +form the upper stratum of the island." (Cunningham +manuscript.)*</p> +<blockquote>(*Footnote. Similar representations were found by Mr. +White, carved on stone in the neighbourhood of Port Jackson. +White's Journal quarto page 141.)</blockquote> +<p>June 25.</p> +<p>Having procured all the spars and planks from the wreck that +could be useful to us, we made preparations to sail, and at +daylight, the 25th, got underweigh with my two companions, and +resumed our course to the northward, over that of last year, +excepting that we steered inside of Pelican Island, and to +leeward of Island 4. We passed several large sting-rays asleep on +the surface of the sea, which our people ineffectually +endeavoured to harpoon. On the former island large flights of +pelicans were seen, and upon the sandbank, to the southward of +it, there was a flock of two or three hundred young birds.</p> +<p>The breeze not being sufficient to carry us to Night Island +before dark, the anchor was dropped in eleven fathoms muddy +bottom, two miles to the eastward of Island 8. The Dick and San +Antonio anchored close to us. During the night we had a fresh +breeze from South-East by East, and, not having any island or +reef to shelter us from the swell, we were obliged to drop a +second anchor to retain our position. The San Antonio drove for +some distance, but the Dick rode through the night without +driving, although she had but forty fathoms of cable out.</p> +<p>June 26.</p> +<p>On weighing the next morning, we made sail to the North by +West, but, from the compass-box not being quite straight in the +binnacle, we made a North by West 1/2 West course, which was not +discovered until we had nearly paid dear for our neglect; for we +passed close to a rock which I intended to have gone at least a +mile to windward of. It was seen just in time to put the helm +a-lee, or we should have run upon it.</p> +<p>The weather was now so thick that we could not see a mile +around us; we were therefore obliged to follow our former +courses, to avoid the risk of running over a strange track in +such unfavourable weather. At sunset we anchored under the lee of +Piper's Islets.</p> +<p>June 27.</p> +<p>The next day we anchored under Sunday Island in Margaret Bay, +at about half a mile from the sandy beach, on its north-west +side.</p> +<p>Here we were detained by bad weather until the 30th.</p> +<p>June 30.</p> +<p>When, with some slight appearance of improvement, and tired of +losing so much time, we weighed and proceeded on our course. +After passing the Bird Isles, thick weather again set in, with +constant rain, and a strong breeze from South-East. Upon reaching +Cairncross Island, under which it was my intention to anchor, the +sails were reduced; and, as we were in the act of letting go the +anchor, Mr. Roe, who was at the masthead holding thoughtlessly by +the fore-topmast staysail-halyards, whilst the sail was being +hauled down, was precipitated from a height of fifty feet, and +fell senseless on the deck. We were now close to the reef; and, +in the hurry and confusion attending the accident, and the Dick +at the same time luffing up under our stern, the anchor was +dropped, without my ascertaining the quality of the bottom, which +was afterwards found to be of a very questionable nature.</p> +<p>The Dick, having dropped her anchor within forty yards of us, +was lying so close as to prevent our veering more cable than +sixty fathoms, but as we appeared to ride tolerably easy with a +sheer to starboard, while the Dick rode on the opposite sheer, we +remained as we were: to prevent accident, the yards were braced +so that we should cast clear of the Dick if we parted, a +precaution which was most happily taken.</p> +<p>As soon as the distressing accident that had occurred was +known on board the Dick, Dr. Armstrong, a surgeon of the navy and +a passenger in that ship, hastened on board to assist Mr. +Montgomery in dressing Mr. Roe's hurt, which I found, to my +inexpressible satisfaction, was not so grievous as might have +been expected: his fall was, most providentially, broken twice; +first by the spritsail brace, and secondly by some planks from +the Frederick's wreck, which had fortunately been placed across +the forecastle bulwark over the cat-heads: his head struck the +edge of the plank and broke his fall, but it cut a very deep +wound over the right temple. This unfortunate event threatened to +deprive me of his very valuable assistance for some time, a loss +I could but very ill spare, particularly when upon the point of +returning to the examination of so intricate a coast as that part +where we last left off.</p> +<p>At six o'clock in the evening the flood-tide began to set to +leeward, and as night approached the appearance of the weather +became very threatening, accompanied by a descent of the mercury; +this gave me a very unfavourable idea of our situation: the wind +was blowing clear of the reef, and raised a heavy sea; and the +Dick was so close to us that we dared not veer cable, for fear of +getting on board of her, which must have happened if either ship +should break her sheer.</p> +<p>At half-past ten o'clock, during a very heavy squall, the +cable parted, but from the precaution above-mentioned, the brig +happily drifted with her head to starboard, and passed clear both +of the Dick and San Antonio; the chain-cabled anchor was then +dropped, and veered to ninety fathoms, which brought her up in +fifteen fathoms, mud; in which birth she appeared to ride much +easier than before. I was now very anxious about the lost anchor; +and, having expressed a wish to inform Mr. Harrison of our +situation, and to request him to recover our anchor in the +morning if the weather would permit, Mr. Bedwell volunteered to +go on board her; which, although a service of danger, was, if +possible to be effected, absolutely necessary. The boat was +lowered, and they shoved off, but as the crew were unable to pull +it ahead, I called her on board again, which was most fortunate; +for shortly afterwards the chain-cable parted also, and the brig +drove with her head towards the shore.</p> +<p>1821. July 1.</p> +<p>We had now the prospect of being obliged to keep under sail +during the remainder of the night. An attempt was made to veer, +in order that, by laying to with her head off shore, we might +have time to recover the cable, without endangering the security +of the vessel; but, from the weight of the chain at the bow, this +manoeuvre could not be effected; fearing, therefore, to drift any +more to the westward, in which direction we were making rapid +way, I was under the necessity of slipping the chain, by which we +lost one hundred fathoms of cable, which we could but badly +spare: being now freed from the impediment, the brig's head was +placed off shore; and after making sail, we fired several muskets +and showed lights, as signals to the Dick, who, it afterwards +appeared, kept a light up for our guidance; but the weather was +so squally and thick, with almost constant rain, that it was not +seen by us. It was half-past twelve o'clock when we made sail to +the North-East by East, deepening from fourteen to sixteen +fathoms, and when the hillocky summit of Cairncross Island bore +South by West, beyond which bearing we did not know how far we +could proceed with safety; we tacked to the South-South-West, and +proceeded in that direction until the island bore South, when we +were in fourteen fathoms. Having thus ascertained the depth of +this space, which was about three miles in extent, it was +occupied during the remainder of the night; which, being very +dark and squally, was passed by us in the greatest anxiety. At +day-dawn we were joined by our companions, and, as it was not +possible from the state of the weather to regain the anchors we +had lost, made sail towards Turtle Island, on our way to which we +passed Escape River: both of these places reminded us of former +perils, but the recollection of our providential preservation on +those occasions, as well as on many others during our former +voyages, increased the grateful feelings which we now felt for +our safety and protection during the last night, the anxieties +and circumstances of which can never be obliterated from our +minds.</p> +<p>Our course was directed entirely by the chart I had previously +formed; for the weather was so thick that for the greater part of +the way no land could be seen to guide us: by noon we had passed +between Cape York and Mount Adolphus, and in a short time rounded +the north end of Wednesday Island, and were steering between it +and the North-West Reef.</p> +<p>After passing the rock off Hammond's Island, we steered West +by South 1/2 South, but were obliged to haul up South-West by +West to pass to the southward of a small shoal, some part of +which was uncovered (the time of tide being nearly low water, +spring tide): this shoal lies in a North 50 degrees West +direction, from the low rocky ledge off the north end of Good's +Island, and is distant from it about a mile and a half. The Dick +being a little to leeward of our track, had four fathoms; but the +least we had was five and three-quarters. This reef is not +noticed in Captain Flinders' chart: at high water, or even at +half ebb, it is very dangerous, from its lying in the direct +track; but, by hauling over to the south shore, may be easily +avoided.</p> +<p>At four o'clock we passed Booby Island, and steered West by +South across the Gulf of Carpentaria.</p> +<p>July 3.</p> +<p>Between Booby Island and Cape Wessel, which we passed in sight +of on the 3rd, we had thick gloomy weather, with the wind between +South and East-South-East; and, after rounding the Cape had some +heavy rain, in which the mercury, having previously fallen to +29.91, rose to 29.95 inches. Lightning from the east and west +accompanied the rain, but the wind was steady, and did not +freshen or lull during the showers.</p> +<p>July 5.</p> +<p>On the 5th, at daylight, Goulburn Islands were seen, and at +nine o'clock we passed through the strait that divides them; our +track being half a mile more to the northward than that of last +year, we had more regular soundings.</p> +<p>As soon as we anchored in South-West Bay, I sent on shore to +examine our former watering-place, but found that the stream had +failed. The parched up appearance of the island showed that the +last had been an unusually dry season; every place that, even in +the month of August, six weeks later, had before yielded large +quantities, as well as the lagoon behind the beach, which, from +the nature of the plants growing in it, was conjectured to be a +never-failing supply, was now dried up.</p> +<p>July 6 to 8.</p> +<p>The next morning the brig's boat went over to Sims Island with +Mr. Cunningham, and there found a small quantity of water, +sufficient, according to Mr. Hemmans' report, for all our wants. +The next morning (7th) he moved the San Antonio over to the +island, and anchoring her off the sandy beach, landed his people +to dig holes. In the afternoon he sent me a specimen of what had +been collected; but it was so brackish that I gave up all idea of +shipping any: he had improvidently dug large holes, into which +all the water good and bad had drained, and thereby the good was +spoiled. The following morning he sent another specimen, which, +notwithstanding it was considerably better, was still too bad to +tempt me to embark any. During the San Antonio's stay at Sims +Island, our gentleman paid it a visit: its vegetation appeared to +have suffered as much from want of rain as Goulburn Island. "The +venerable tournefortia (Tournefortia argentea. Lin.) however, +appeared as an exception: this tree, which grows on the centre of +the beach, where it is remarkably conspicuous, appeared to have +resisted the dry state of the season; it was in full leaf, and +covered with a profusion of flowers, which attracted a variety of +insects, particularly of the genera apis, vespa, and sphex; and +among them a beautiful green-coloured chrysis." (Cunningham +manuscripts.)</p> +<p>During the two last days, our people were employed cutting +wood; no natives had made their appearance, although recent +tracks on the sand showed they were not far off; but on the +evening of the 7th, the surgeon, accompanied by Dr. Armstrong of +the Dick, landed in that vessel's gig, and, whilst amusing +themselves among the trees, and the boat's crew incautiously +wandering away from the boat, the natives came down, and would +have carried off all the boat's furniture, and everything in her, +had they not been disturbed by the return of one of the sailors +with a musket. They succeeded however, in making a prize of a new +boat-cloak, and the boat-hook, and one of them had nearly +succeeded in carrying off an oar, but upon being fired at, +dropped his booty and scampered off. This trifling loss was +deservedly sustained by our gentlemen, for they were well aware +how suddenly the natives have always appeared, and how +mischievously they had on those occasions conducted themselves: +they were also cautioned, when they went on shore to be upon +their guard, and it was fortunate for them that nothing more +serious occurred.</p> +<p>July 8.</p> +<p>At daylight, the 8th, the San Antonio rejoined us from Sims +Island, and at eleven o'clock we left the bay, and passed to the +eastward of New Year's Island: the Dick and ourselves then +steered to the westward along the coast, while the San Antonio +steered a north-west course, and parted company.</p> +<p>July 9.</p> +<p>The following day, being in sight of the land of Cape Van +Diemen, and having sent our letters on board the Dick for +conveyance to England, we parted company by an interchange of +three cheers; and it was not without a considerable degree of +regret that we took this leave of our friends; for it is but due +to Mr. Harrison to say that we received very great assistance +from him on several occasions: he offered us his stream anchor to +replace in some degree our loss, although he had himself only one +left; it was, however, much too small for our purpose.</p> +<p>By this opportunity I wrote to the Secretary of the Admiralty, +and the Under Secretary of State for the Colonies, and +communicating to them a brief account of our voyage up the east +coast, acquainted them of my intention of employing the +fine-weather months of July and August upon the north-west coast, +and then of going to Mauritius, to replace our anchors and cable, +previous to our examination of the west coast.</p> +<p><a name="chapter02"></a></p> +<h3>CHAPTER 2.</h3> +<blockquote>Passage from Cape Van Diemen to Careening Bay.<br> +Not finding water, visit Prince Regent's River, and procure it +from the Cascade.<br> +Farther examination of the river.<br> +Amphibious mud-fish.<br> +Anchor in Halfway Bay, and explore Munster Water and Hanover Bay +in a boat.<br> +Visit Hanover Bay, and procure water and fish.<br> +Interview with natives.<br> +The surgeon speared.<br> +Retaliate upon them, and capture their rafts and weapons.<br> +Description of their implements.<br> +Port George the Fourth.<br> +Islands to the westward.<br> +Red Island of Captain Heywood.<br> +Strong tides.<br> +Camden Bay.<br> +Buccaneer's Archipelago.<br> +Cygnet Bay.<br> +Dangerous situation of the brig.<br> +High and rapid tides.<br> +Cape Leveque.<br> +Examination of the coast to Cape Latouche Treville.<br> +Remarkable effect of mirage.<br> +Leave the coast for Mauritius.<br> +Voyage thither.<br> +Arrival at Port Louis.<br> +Refit.<br> +Some account of the island.</blockquote> +<p>1821. July 9.</p> +<p>Our course was held to the south-west towards Cape +Londonderry; on which, with a fresh South-East wind, we proceeded +with rapidity.</p> +<p>July 12.</p> +<p>On the morning of the 12th, Eclipse Hill and Sir Graham +Moore's Islands were seen, and in the afternoon we passed +Troughton Island; at sunset, Point Hillock bore South thirteen +miles, whence we steered to the West-North-West and North-West, +and rounded the north end of the long reef, to the westward of +Cape Bougainville.</p> +<p>July 13.</p> +<p>The next morning, at daylight, Cassini Island was seen bearing +South by West; here we were detained for two days by light +baffling winds and calms.</p> +<p>July 14.</p> +<p>During the night of the 14th, the wind was light from the +westward, and we stood off and on to the north of Cassini +Island.</p> +<p>July 15.</p> +<p>At half-past one o'clock a.m., having sounded in thirty-three +fathoms, we shoaled suddenly to fourteen, when the vessel's head +was put to the southward, but the breeze was so very light, that +she had hardly steerage way: by the light of the moon a line of +breakers was seen two miles off, under our lee: we had now +shoaled to nine fathoms on a rocky bottom, but its great +irregularity prevented our dropping the anchor until the last +minute, since it would have been to the certain loss of the only +one we had. In order, therefore, to save it, if possible, the +boat was lowered, and sent to sound between the vessel and the +breakers. Finding we made no progress off the reef by standing to +the southward, we tacked; and, a light breeze springing up from +the westward, we drew off the bank on a north-west course, and in +the space of a mile and a half deepened the water gradually to +thirty fathoms.</p> +<p>July 16.</p> +<p>The next morning, at a quarter past eight o'clock, the +breakers were again seen; they were found to be 24 minutes 44 +seconds West of Troughton Island. The wind was too light to allow +of our approaching, we therefore tacked off to the westward, and +soon lost sight of them; at noon we were in latitude 13 degrees +26 minutes 26 seconds. The breakers from the masthead, bearing +south-east, distant eight or nine miles.</p> +<p>During the ensuing night, having a fresh breeze, we stood +first to the westward, and afterwards to the south-east.</p> +<p>July 17.</p> +<p>At seven o'clock the next morning no land was in sight, but +breakers were seen extending from South by West to South-West by +South, about five miles off; and two miles beyond them was +another line of breakers, bearing from South-South-West to +South-West by West. As we steered obliquely towards them, they +were noticed to extend still farther to the eastward, but +apparently in detached patches; our soundings, as we stood on, +shoaled to fifteen fathoms; and we were shortly within half a +mile of an appearance of shoal-water, in thirteen fathoms on a +rocky bottom. The wind now began to lessen; and, for fear of +being becalmed, I was anxious to get an offing. By our +observations, we found the breakers this morning were connected +with those passed yesterday, and are a part of Baudin's +Holothurie Banks. The French charts of this part are very vague +and incorrect; for our situation at noon upon their plan (with +respect to the position of Cassini Island) was in the centre of +their reefs.</p> +<p>At noon we were in 13 degrees 38 minutes South, when a +freshening breeze from South-East enabled us to make progress to +the southward. At two o'clock some of the Montalivet Islands were +seen; and before three o'clock, an island was seen bearing South, +which proved, as we stood towards it, to be the northernmost of a +group lying off the north-west end of Bigge's Island; they were +seen last year from Cape Pond, and also from the summit of the +hills over Careening Bay.</p> +<p>July 19 to 21.</p> +<p>At daylight (19th) having laid to all night, this group was +about six leagues off, bearing from South 35 1/2 to 49 degrees +East, but a continuation of calms and light winds detained us in +sight of them until the 21st.</p> +<p>This group consists of eight or nine islands, and appears to +be those called by the French the Maret Isles; they are from one +quarter to a mile and a half in extent, and are rocky and +flat-topped; the shores are composed of steep, rocky cliffs. They +are fronted on the west side by a rocky reef extending in a +North-North-East and South-South-West direction.</p> +<p>During the calm weather, in the vicinity of this group, we had +seen many fish and sea-snakes; one of the latter was shot and +preserved; its length was four feet four inches; the head very +small; it had neither fins nor gills, and respired like +land-snakes; on each scale was a rough ridge: it did not appear +to be venomous. A shark was also taken, eleven feet long; and +many curious specimens of crustacea and medusa were obtained by +the towing-net. Some of the latter were so diaphanous as to be +perfectly invisible when immersed in the water. Among the former +were a species of phyllosoma, and the Alima hyalina of +Leach.*</p> +<blockquote>(*Footnote. Cancer vitreus. Banks and Solander +manuscripts. Lin. Gmel. tome 1 page 2991. Astacus vitreus. Fabr. +Syst. ent. page 417 n. 8.)</blockquote> +<p>At daylight we were about four leagues to the West-North-West +of Captain Baudin's Colbert Island; at the back of which were +seen some patches of the Coronation Islands. The night was passed +at anchor off the northernmost Coronation Island.</p> +<p>July 23.</p> +<p>And the following afternoon we anchored at about half a mile +from the sandy beach of Careening Bay.</p> +<p>As soon as the vessel was secured, we visited the shore, and +recognised the site of our last year's encampment, which had +suffered no alteration, except what had been occasioned by a +rapid vegetation: a sterculia, the stem of which had served as +one of the props of our mess-tent, and to which we had nailed a +sheet of copper with an inscription, was considerably grown; and +the gum had oozed out in such profusion where the nails had +pierced the bark that it had forced one corner of the copper +off.</p> +<p>The large gouty-stemmed tree on which the Mermaid's name had +been carved in deep indented characters remained without any +alteration, and seemed likely to bear the marks of our visit +longer than any other memento we had left.</p> +<p>The sensations experienced at revisiting a place which had so +seasonably afforded us a friendly shelter and such unlooked-for +convenience for our purposes, can only be estimated by those who +have experienced them; and it is only to strangers to such +feelings that it will appear ridiculous to say, that even the +nail to which our thermometer had been suspended, was the subject +of pleasurable recognition.</p> +<p>We then bent our steps to the water-gully, but, to our +mortification, it was quite dried up, and exhibited no vestige of +its having contained any for some time. From the more luxuriant +and verdant appearance of the trees and grass than the country +hereabout assumed last year, when the water was abundant, we had +felt assured of finding it and therefore our disappointment was +the greater.</p> +<p>July 24.</p> +<p>After another unsuccessful search in the bight, to the +eastward of Careening Bay, in which we fruitlessly examined a +gully that Mr. Cunningham informed me had last year produced a +considerable stream, we gave up all hopes of success here, and +directed our attention to the cascade of Prince Regent's River; +which we entered the next afternoon, with the wind and tide in +our favour, and at sunset reached an anchorage at the bottom of +St. George's Basin, a mile and a half to the northward of the +islet that lies off the inner entrance of the river, in seven +fathoms muddy sand.</p> +<p>July 26.</p> +<p>The following morning at half-past four o'clock Mr. Montgomery +accompanied me in the whale-boat to visit the cascade; we reached +it at nine o'clock and found the water, to our inexpressible +satisfaction, falling abundantly.</p> +<p>While the boat's crew rested and filled their baricas, I +ascended the rocks over which the water was falling and was +surprised to find its height had been so underrated when we +passed by it last year: it was then thought to be about forty +feet, but I now found it could not be less than one hundred and +fifty. The rock, a fine-grained siliceous sandstone, is disposed +in horizontal strata, from six to twelve feet thick, each of +which projects about three feet from that above it, and forms a +continuity of steps to the summit, which we found some difficulty +in climbing; but where the distance between the ledges was great +we assisted our ascent by tufts of grass firmly rooted in the +luxuriant moss that grew abundantly about the water-courses. On +reaching the summit, I found that the fall was supplied from a +stream winding through rugged chasms and thickly-matted clusters +of plants and trees, among which the pandanus bore a conspicuous +appearance and gave a picturesque richness to the place. While +admiring the wildness of the scene, Mr. Montgomery joined me; we +did not however succeed in following the stream for more than a +hundred yards, for at that distance its windings were so confused +among rocks and spinifex that we could not trace its source. +After collecting for Mr. Cunningham, who was confined on board by +sickness, a few specimens of those plants which, to me, appeared +the most novel, we commenced our descent, and reached the bottom +in safety; by which time the tide was ebbing so rapidly that we +set off immediately on our return with a view of arriving on +board by low-water, in order that no time might be lost in +sending the boats up with our empty water-casks.</p> +<p>During our absence Mr. Roe, who was fast recovering from the +effects of his fall, had obtained the sun's meridional altitude +upon the islet at the entrance of the river, which gave 15 +degrees 25 minutes 46 seconds for its latitude, differing from +the plan of last year by only fifteen seconds.</p> +<center> +<p><a name="king2-02"></a><img alt="" src="images/king2-02.jpg"></p> +<p><b>VIEW OF THE CASCADE IN PRINCE REGENT'S RIVER.<br> +From a sketch by P.P. King. Published in May 1825 by John Murray, +London.</b></p> +</center> +<p>Â </p> +<p>July 27.</p> +<p>The following day the boats were despatched up the river, but +as the ebb-tide ran until after four o'clock it was late at night +before they reached the cascade, having experienced some delay by +running upon the sandbanks, which, above Alligator Island, are +very numerous and form a narrow winding channel of not more than +twelve feet deep; these banks are dry at low-water, and are +composed of a yellow quartzose sand. At midnight, as soon as the +launch and cutter were loaded, for it did not take more than half +an hour to fill the casks, I despatched them to the vessel with +orders to return the following night for another load, and in the +meantime I purposed continuing the examination of the river, of +which we knew nothing beyond a few miles above the cascade.</p> +<p>July 28.</p> +<p>We were, however, unable to set out until half flood the next +morning, on account of the shoalness of the channel.</p> +<p>For ten miles we found little or no variation either in its +character or course: its windings were only just sufficient to +intercept a clear view; for so direct was its course, that from +this part the high round hill near the entrance was seen midway +between the hills that form the banks of the river.</p> +<p>Proceeding a little way farther, we were suddenly whirled into +a rapid amongst large stones, in the midst of which, as the +stream was running at the rate of five or six knots, the grapnel +was instantly dropped, which had the effect of reversing the +boat's head. After this the grapnel was weighed, and by very +great exertions we extricated ourselves from the rapid, and then +landed at a hundred yards below the fall, on the east bank, where +the mangroves were so thick that it was with difficulty we +penetrated through them: having succeeded, we walked to the bank +near the rapid, and found that it was occasioned by the tide +falling over a barrier of rocks, which probably at low-water +confines the fresh water above this place; a few minutes +afterwards it was high-water, and the tide suddenly ceased to +run; when the water became quite smooth and motionless.</p> +<p>A fresh-water rivulet, at that time the mere drainings of what +occasionally is a torrent, joined the main river, just above the +rapid, by a trickling stream; and made us the more desirous of +extending our knowledge of this extraordinary river: we therefore +re-embarked, and, passing the rapid, pulled up the river against +the tide for a mile farther, where it was suddenly terminated by +a beautiful fresh-water rivulet, whose clear, transparent stream +was so great a contrast to the thick, muddied water we had so +long been pulling through that it was a most gratifying sight, +and amply repaid us for all our fatigue and exertions. The fresh +water was separated from the salt tide by a gentle fall over +rounded stones; but as the boat was unable to pass over them, we +had only time to fill our water-vessels, in order to be certain +of returning over the first rapid, before the strength of the +stream rendered it dangerous to pass. The bed of the river at +this second fall appeared to be about two hundred and fifty yards +in breadth: its farther course was lost sight of by a sharp turn, +first to the North-East, and then to the South-East, between high +and rocky hills.</p> +<p>Large groves of pandanus and hibiscus and a variety of other +plants were growing in great luxuriance upon the banks, but +unhappily the sterile and rocky appearance of the country was +some alloy to the satisfaction we felt at the first sight of the +fresh water; as we did not, however, expect to find a good +country, the pleasure was not much diminished, and we set off on +our return, perfectly satisfied with the success of our labours: +we were at this time about fifty miles from the sea.</p> +<p>The ebb-tide had fallen for an hour when we passed the first +falls, but there was no appearance of that violence which we +witnessed in the morning; probably because the stream had not +reached its strength.</p> +<p>An alligator was seen on our return, swimming within two yards +of the boat, and a musket, charged with a ball and buck-shot, was +uselessly fired at it. The appearance of these animals in the +water is very deceptious; they lie quite motionless, and resemble +a branch of a tree floating with the tide; the snout, the eye, +and some of the ridges of the back and tail being the only parts +that are seen. The animal that we fired at was noticed for some +time, but considered to be only a dead branch, although we were +looking out for alligators, and approached within six yards of it +before we found out our mistake: the length of this animal was +from twelve to fifteen feet; I do not think that we have ever +seen one more than twenty feet long.</p> +<p>We reached the cascade by four o'clock and remained there +until our boats arrived for a second cargo of water, which was at +midnight; as soon as the casks were filled, we set off on our +return, but did not reach the brig until eight o'clock in the +morning.</p> +<p>July 29.</p> +<p>The fatigue and exposure which attended our watering at this +place were so great that I was obliged to give up the idea of +completing it now. We had obtained, by the two trips, enough to +last until the end of October, which, with the chance of finding +more upon other parts of the coast, was sufficient for our +intended mode of proceeding. The boats were therefore hoisted in, +and preparations made to leave the anchorage.</p> +<p>The river appears to abound with fish, particularly with +mullet; and porpoises were observed as high as the first falls, a +distance of fifty miles from the sea. A curious species of +mud-fish (chironectes sp. Cuvier) was noticed, of amphibious +nature, and something similar to what we have frequently before +seen; these were, however, much larger, being about nine inches +long. At low water the mud-banks near the cascade that were +exposed by the falling tide were covered with these fish, +sporting about, and running at each other with open mouths; but +as we approached, they so instantaneously buried themselves in +the soft mud that their disappearance seemed the effect of magic: +upon our retiring and attentively watching the spot, these +curious animals would re-appear as suddenly as they had before +vanished. We fired at several, but so sudden were their motions +that they generally escaped; two or three only were procured, +which appeared from their lying on the mud in an inactive state +to have been asleep; they are furnished with very strong pectoral +and ventral fins with which and with the anal fin, when required, +they make a hole, into which they drop. When sporting on the mud, +the pectoral fins are used like legs, upon which they move very +quickly; but nothing can exceed the instantaneous movement by +which they disappear. Those that were shot were taken on board, +but on account of the extreme heat of the weather they had become +so putrefied as to be totally unfit for preservation.</p> +<p>July 30.</p> +<p>The next day, the 30th, was spent in examining some bights in +the narrow part of the channel near Gap Island, so named from a +remarkable division in its centre, through which the high-tide +flows, and gives it the appearance of being two islands. It was +on this occasion that we explored Halfway Bay, where we were +fortunate in finding good anchorage, and in which we also +discovered a strait, that on a subsequent examination was found +to communicate with Munster Water, and to insulate the land that +forms the north-west shore of the bay: this island was called +after the late Right Honourable Charles Greville, whose name has +also been given to a family of plants (grevillea) that bears a +prominent rank in the botany of this country. The strait, in +which the tide was running at the rate of six or seven knots, was +not more than one hundred and fifty yards wide; but in one part +it was contracted to a much narrower compass, by a bed of rocks +that nearly extended across the strait, and which must originally +have communicated with the opposite shore.</p> +<p>We landed under the flat-topped hill, at the south end of +Greville Island, among the mangroves which skirt the shore, and +walked a few hundred yards round the point, to examine the course +of the strait; but the way was so rugged, and we had so little +time to spare, that we soon re-embarked and returned into Halfway +Bay. The geological character of the island is a red-coloured, +coarse-granular, siliceous sandstone, disposed in horizontal +strata, and intersected by veins of crystallised quartz. The +surface is covered by a shallow, reddish-coloured soil, producing +a variety of shrubs and plants.</p> +<p>After this we crossed the river, and examined the two bays +opposite to Gap Island, but found them so shoal and overrun with +mangroves that no landing could be effected in any part. In both +bays there is anchorage between the heads; but all the inner part +is very shoal, and perhaps at low water there is not more than +nine feet water within the heads. In the mid-stream of the river +the bottom is deep, and is formed entirely of shells over which, +on account of its being very narrow, the tide runs with great +strength; and from the irregularity of the bottom forms numerous +eddies and whirlpools, in which a boat is quite unmanageable.</p> +<p>During our absence, Mr. Bedwell examined our former +watering-place, at the back of St. Andrew's Island, and on his +return landed upon the sandy beach of a bay on the south-west +side of the basin, but was unsuccessful in his search for water +at both places.</p> +<p>The sea breeze freshened towards sunset, and fanned up the +fires that had been burning for the last three days in several +places upon the low land, and on the sides of the hills to the +westward of Mount Trafalgar; before night they had all joined, +and, spreading over the tops of the hills for a space of three +miles, produced a singularly grand and magnificent effect.</p> +<p>1821. August 1.</p> +<p>At half past five o'clock the next morning we were under sail +but, the breeze being light, had only time to reach the anchorage +under Greville Island in Halfway Bay, before the tide turned +against us. It was purposed to remain only during the flood; but, +on examination, the place was found to be so well adapted for the +purpose of procuring some lunar distances with the sun, to +correspond with those taken last year at Careening Bay, that we +determined upon seizing the opportunity; and as wood was abundant +on the island and growing close to the shores, a party was formed +to complete our holds with fuel, whilst Mr. Roe assisted me in +taking observations upon a convenient station on the north point +of the bay within Lammas Island, a small rocky islet covered with +shrubs, and separated from the easternmost point of Greville +Island by a very shoal and rocky channel.</p> +<p>During these occupations we examined Munster Water: on our way +to it we landed on the reef off the east end of the Midway Isles, +which was found to be more extensive than had been suspected, and +to embrace the group of small rocks, which at high-water only +just show their summits above the water; at high-tide there is at +least fifteen feet water over it, but being low-water when we +landed, the reef was dry. Upon it we found several varieties of +coral, particularly Explanaria mesenterina, Lam.; Caryophylla +fastigata, Lam.; and Porites subdigitata, Lam.: the only shell +that we observed upon the reef was a Delphinula laciniata, Lam. +(Turbo delphinus, Linn.). After obtaining bearings from its +extremity, as also from the summit of the outer dry rock, we +landed upon a small verdant-looking grassy mound, the +northernmost islet of the group; but we found the verdure of its +appearance was caused only by the abundance of the spinifex, +through which we had, as usual, much difficulty in travelling. +After procuring some bearings from its summit we re-embarked and +pulled up Munster Water, supposing that it was connected with the +strait at the back of Greville Island; but as the tide then +flowing was running in a contrary direction to what was expected +from the hypothesis we had formed, we began to suspect some other +communication with the sea, and in this we were not deceived; for +a narrow but a very deep strait opened suddenly to our view, at +the bottom of the Water, through which some of the islands in the +offing were recognised. In pulling through we had kept close to +the south shore, that we might not miss the communication with +Hanover Bay, but notwithstanding all our care we passed by +without noticing it, on account of the deceptious appearance of +the land; indeed the strait which we discovered leading to sea +was not seen until we were within two hundred yards of it, and +would also have escaped our observation had not the channel been +so direct that the sea horizon was exposed to our view. At the +bottom of this arm are two deep bays which were partially but +sufficiently examined. In most parts of Munster Water there is +good anchorage amongst several small rocky islands, on one of +which we landed, and climbed its summit, but saw nothing to repay +us for the trouble or the danger of the ascent: the surface was +composed entirely of loose blocks of sandstone, which, when trod +upon, would crumble away or roll down the nearly perpendicular +face of the rock; and it was only by grasping the branches of the +acacias and other trees that were firmly rooted in the +interstices of the less-decomposed rocks that we were saved from +being precipitated with them. On our return we passed through the +channel on the west side of the Midway Isles which we found to be +very deep and the stream very strong.</p> +<p>August 4.</p> +<p>The next day we pulled through the strait that insulates +Greville Island, and found that it communicated with Munster +Water at a part where we had yesterday concluded it likely to +exist, and had in consequence steered towards it; but as we +proceeded the probability became less and less, and we gave up +the search when we were within three hundred yards of being +actually in it.</p> +<p>We then pulled up Munster Water and afterwards through the +strait to sea; and, landing on some dry rocks on a reef which +projects off the west head of the strait, found that we were at +the entrance of the bight, which was last year named Hanover Bay: +after taking a set of bearings, we re-embarked and proceeded to +the bottom of the bay which terminated in a shoal basin.</p> +<p>On our return we entered an opening in the rocky cliff which +bore the appearance of being the outlet of a torrent stream; +being low-water, there was not in many parts sufficient depth to +float the boat; but after pulling up for half a mile, a muddy +channel was found, which, at the end of another half mile, was +terminated by a bed of rocks over which the tide flows at +high-water. The ravine is formed by steep precipitous rocks which +are at least two hundred and fifty feet high; it appeared to +extend to a considerable distance, and as the farther progress of +the boat was prevented by the stones and want of water, Bundell +and two of the boat's crew were despatched to examine a place +farther on, where, from the green appearance of the trees, it was +thought not unlikely that there might be a fresh stream. In this +they were not disappointed, for after much delay and trouble, +from the difficulty of passing over the rocks, they returned with +two baricas full of fresh water, which they found in holes of +considerable size.</p> +<p>In pulling up the river, an alligator was seen crawling slowly +over the mud banks, but took to the water before we came near it +and did not afterwards reappear. Many kangaroo-rats and small +kangaroos were seen skipping about the rocks, but they were very +shy, and fled the moment they saw us.</p> +<p>Hanover Bay thus proving to afford good anchorage and an +opportunity of increasing our stock of water, as well as +presenting a sandy beach on which we could haul the seine, it was +determined that we should visit it as soon as the brig could be +moved out of Prince Regent's River.</p> +<p>On our return, which was over the same ground as we had passed +in the morning, we landed near two or three gullies on the inner +side of the island, which forms the eastern boundary of Munster +Water, but were unsuccessful in all our searches after fresh +water.</p> +<p>August 6.</p> +<p>At daylight on the 6th we got underweigh to a light air of +wind from the southward, to leave Prince Regent's River; but +notwithstanding the vessel was under all sail she was very nearly +thrown upon Lammas Island by the tide, which was setting with +great strength through the shoal passage between it and Sight +Point: as we passed without it we were not more than five yards +from the rocks. The wind then fell to a dead calm and the brig +was perfectly immovable in the water; but, drifted by the tide +and whirled round by the eddies, we were fast approaching the +body of the largest Midway Island, with a very great uncertainty +on which side of it the tide would drift us: when we were about +three hundred yards from the island the direction of the stream +changed and carried us round its south-east side, at about two +hundred yards from the shore, but close to the low rocks off its +east end, on which we landed two days since. We were under great +anxiety for fear of being driven over the reef, on which there +could not have been sufficient water to have floated us; but our +fears of that danger were soon over for the tide swept us rapidly +round it. At this moment a light air sprang up which lasted only +five minutes, but it was sufficient to carry us past the junction +of the Rothsay and Munster Waters with the main stream. The +vessel was at times unmanageable from the violent whirlpools +through which we passed, and was more than once whirled +completely round upon her keel; but our former experience of a +similar event prepared us to expect it, and the yards were as +quickly braced round.</p> +<p>Having passed all the dangers, the ebb-tide very soon carried +us out of the river into Hanover Bay. In passing the easternmost +of the outer isles, the shrill voices of natives were heard +calling to us, and Bundell returned their shout, but it was some +time before we could discern them on account of the very rugged +nature of the island: at last three Indians were observed +standing upon the rocks near the summit of the island but, as the +tide was running out with great strength, we were soon out of +hearing.</p> +<p>Soon after one o'clock the brig was anchored at about half a +mile off the sandy beach in Hanover Bay, in eight fathoms (half +flood) muddy bottom. The boats were immediately hoisted out and +sent up the river, but the tide was ebbing and the difficulty of +filling the casks so great that, after great labour, we only +procured a puncheon of water. The launch was moored without the +rocky bed of the river, while the jolly-boat conveyed the baricas +to her as they were filled, but even the latter could not get +within three hundred yards of the water, so that the people had +to carry the baricas over the rugged bed of the river for that +distance, which made the work laborious and slow; still however +it was much less distressing than the fatigue of watering from +the cascade in Prince Regent's River. At night a successful haul +of the seine supplied our people with abundance of fish, among +which were mullets weighing from three to five pounds; cavallos, +whitings, silver fish, breams, and two species of guard-fish.</p> +<p>August 7.</p> +<p>While our people were employed the next morning in washing the +decks, they heard at a distance the voices of natives; at eight +o'clock they were again heard and at ten o'clock they were close +by; shortly afterwards three, of whom one was a woman, were seen +standing on the rocks waving their arms. Being curious to +communicate with the inhabitants of this part of the coast, since +we had not seen any between this and Vansittart Bay, a party +consisting of the surgeon, Mr. Bedwell, Mr. Baskerville, and +myself, went on shore to the place where the natives were seated +waiting for us. Bundell, who generally accompanied us on these +occasions divested of his clothes, stood up in the bow of the +boat, and, as we approached the shore, made signs of friendship, +which the natives returned, and appeared quite unconcerned at our +approach. On landing we climbed the rocks on which the two men +were standing, when we found that the woman had walked away: upon +our approach they retired a few paces and evidently eyed us in a +distrustful manner; but, as they had dropped their spears, and +repeated the sign of peace that we had made to them, we did not +hesitate to walk towards them unarmed, desiring the boat's crew +to be prepared with the muskets, if called. When we joined them +they had their spears poised ready to throw, but on our +presenting them with some of the fish that we had caught the +preceding evening they dropped their spears and immediately +returned us something in exchange; one gave a belt, made of +opossum fur, to Bundell; and the other, the tallest of the two, +gave me a club that he carried in his hand, a short stick about +eighteen inches long, pointed at both ends. This exchange of +presents appeared to establish a mutual confidence between us, +and, to strengthen it, I presented my friend with a clasped +knife, after showing him its use, the possession of which +appeared to give him great pleasure.</p> +<p>By this time Mr. Montgomery and Mr. Bedwell joined us; the +latter gentleman was unarmed, but the former had a pistol +concealed under his coat and carried a fish which he held out for +them to take; but, as they would not approach us nearer than two +or three yards, he threw it towards them, when the shortest +native picked it up. Upon this accession to our numbers they +began to talk to each other, and at the same time picked up their +spears; but as the latter appeared only to be a cautionary +movement we did not anticipate their mischievous intentions. I +then, with a view to amuse them, made signs to my friend for the +knife, which he put into my hands without showing the least +reluctance, upon which he was again instructed how to open and +shut it; but as this, instead of pacifying, only served to +increase their anger, the knife was thrown at his feet, which he +instantly picked up, and then both retired a few paces in a very +suspicious manner.</p> +<p>We were at this time about three or four yards from the +natives, who were talking to each other in a most animated way, +and evidently intent upon some object; and, as it appeared +probable that, if we remained any longer, a rupture would ensue, +it was proposed that our party should retire to the boat, under +the idea that they would follow us down; no sooner, however, had +we waved to them our farewell, and turned our backs to descend +the rocks, than they unexpectedly, and in the most treacherous +manner, threw their spears; one of which, striking a rock, broke +and fell harmless to the ground, but the other, which was thrown +by the tallest man, wounded Mr. Montgomery in the back; the +natives then, without waiting to throw their second spears, made +off, closely pursued by Bundell, who had armed himself with the +broken spear; but they were out of sight in a moment, and, by the +time that the muskets were brought to our assistance, were +doubtless out of gun-shot. A pursuit was, however, commenced, but +our progress was so much impeded by the rugged and rocky nature +of the ground and by the abundance and intricate growth of the +shrubs and trees that we very soon desisted, and returned to the +boat, to which Mr. Montgomery had been in the meantime carried, +complaining of great weakness from loss of blood.</p> +<center> +<p><a name="king2-03"></a><img alt="" src="images/king2-03.jpg"></p> +<p><b>WEAPONS ETC. OF THE NATIVES OF HANOVER BAY.<br> +1. Stone Spear Head (Full size.) From a Drawing by F. Chantrey, +Esquire, F.R.S.<br> +2. Section of a Stone Spear Head (Full size.) From a Drawing by +F. Chantrey, Esquire, F.R.S.<br> +3. Spear armed with the Stone head.<br> +4. Throwing-stick.<br> +5. Hatchet.<br> +Published in May 1825 by John Murray, London.</b></p> +</center> +<p>Â </p> +<p>Upon examining Mr. Montgomery's wound, which unfortunately was +in such a part of his body that he could not himself inspect it, +it appeared that the spear had penetrated about three inches; +and, from the quantity of extravasated blood, great fears were +entertained that he had received a very serious internal injury. +The wound, from which he was suffering very great pain, was +dressed according to his instructions, but it was several days +before he considered himself out of danger.</p> +<p>August 8.</p> +<p>The next morning at eleven o'clock a native was seen on a +float, or catamaran, paddling round the west point of the strait, +and another man, a woman, and a child, were observed on the +rocks, who, in less than a quarter of an hour, came down to the +spot where we met them yesterday, and began to wave and call to +us. An opportunity now offered of punishing these wretches for +their treacherous conduct, and of disappointing them in their +present plans, for they were evidently intent upon some mischief. +Mr. Bedwell was therefore despatched to secure their catamaran, +which was hauled up on a sandy beach near the outer point, whilst +another boat was sent towards the natives: when the latter +arrived near the shore, they were sitting on the rock and +inviting us to land; but it was necessary to convince them that +we were not so defenceless as they imagined, and, as soon as we +were sufficiently near, several muskets were fired over their +heads: one of them fell down behind a rock, but the other made +off. The native who had fallen was wounded in the shoulder, and +was recognised to be the man that speared Mr. Montgomery; he made +several attempts to get away, but every time his head appeared +above the rock which concealed him from us, a pistol or a musket +was fired to prevent his escape; at last, however, he sprang up, +and, leaping upon the rock with a violent effort, was +instantaneously out of sight.</p> +<p>As soon as he was gone we pulled round to the sandy bay where +the natives had landed and overtook Mr. Bedwell, who was passing +by the place. Upon the beach we found two catamarans, or floats, +on each of which a large bundle of spears was tied with ligatures +of bark; and on searching about the grass we soon found and +secured all their riches, consisting of water-baskets, tomahawks, +spears, throwing-sticks, fire-sticks, fishing-lines, and +thirty-six spears; some of the latter were of large size, and +very roughly made, and one was headed with a piece of stone +curiously pointed and worked. This last spear is propelled by a +throwing-stick, which was also found lying by it. After launching +the catamarans and securing everything found upon them, they were +towed round by the boats to where we had fired upon the natives, +whilst a party walked over land to examine the place. On the way +several spears were discovered placed ready for use on their +retreat to the beach, where, from the quantity collected, they +evidently intended to make a stand; supposing no doubt from our +appearance yesterday that we were defenceless, and would +therefore fall an easy prey. On reaching the rock, behind which +the native fell, it was found covered with blood; and Bundell, +who probably did the deed, said the wound was on his shoulder. We +traced their retreat by the blood for half a mile to the border +of a mangrove inlet, which they had evidently crossed, for the +marks of their feet were perceived imprinted in the mud. We then +gave up the pursuit, and went on board.</p> +<p>Upon examining the baskets, among other things a piece of iron +hoop was found fixed in a wooden handle, which it seemed they had +used for the purpose of digging up roots. This hoop must have +been left by us last year at Careening Bay. But what chiefly +attracted our attention was a small bundle of bark, tied up with +more than usual care; upon opening it we found it contained +several spear-heads, most ingeniously and curiously made of +stone; they were about six inches in length, and were terminated +by a very sharp point; both edges were serrated in a most +surprising way; the serratures were evidently made by a sharp +stroke with some instrument, but it was effected without leaving +the least mark of the blow: the stone was covered with red +pigment, and appeared to be a flinty slate. These spear-heads +were ready for fixing, and the careful manner in which they were +preserved plainly showed their value, for each was separated by +strips of bark, and the sharp edges protected by a covering of +fur. A wound with such a spear must be mortal; and it was very +fortunate for Mr. Montgomery that his was not inflicted with one +of these truly formidable weapons. Their hatchets were also made +of the same stone, the edges of which are ground so sharp that a +few blows serve to chop off the branch of a tree.</p> +<p>The catamarans consisted of five mangrove stems lashed +together to a frame of smaller wood, as in Woodcut 2: they are +bouyant enough to carry two natives, besides their spears and +baskets. A representation of this mode of conveyance is also +given in <a href="#king2-00">the title page of this +volume</a></p> +<center> +<p><a name="king2-04"></a><img alt="" src="images/king2-04.jpg"></p> +<p><b>WOODCUT 2: RAFT OF THE NATIVES OF HANOVER BAY.</b></p> +</center> +<p>Â </p> +<p>These natives were more robust-looking men than any we had +before seen; the tallest must have been at least six feet two +inches high; their bodies were scarred all over; their teeth +perfect, and they were quite naked. The shorter native had his +hair collected into a knob at the top of his head, which gave him +a ferocious appearance. The punishment they so justly received +will make them respect in future the formidable nature of our +arms.</p> +<p>At night we hauled the seine, and procured about four dozen +fish, principally mullet. An armed party was stationed above the +beach to prevent any attack from the natives, but they did not +show themselves.</p> +<p>August 9.</p> +<p>On the following day we again heard them shouting and +hallooing but it was some time before we could observe their +situation; at last five were discovered by the aid of a +telescope, seated on the summit of a hill behind the beach, +occupied in making spears; at a little distance were two others, +one of whom was distinguished to be the native that had escaped +unwounded; the other, a stranger, was chopping a branch off a +tree, which he was seen to trim and scrape into a rough spear. +During the time they were thus employed, they frequently hallooed +to us; no notice was however taken of their cries, although the +temptation was very great of firing a shot over their heads to +show them that they were still within our reach. As soon as they +had finished their work and had made about a dozen spears, they +all got up and walked away.</p> +<p>After they disappeared behind the hill it was thought not +unlikely that they would attack our people at the watering-place; +the party were therefore sent away in the afternoon well armed, +but the natives did not make their appearance, and the boats +returned at sunset without having been disturbed. The tide was so +trifling and the difficulty of loading the boat so great that +only ninety gallons of water were procured; and as we were not +likely to make quicker progress unless we waited for the +spring-tides, we gave up all idea of completing our water, and +made preparations to leave the bay.</p> +<p>August 10.</p> +<p>On the following day (10th) as there was no wind all the +morning, I sent for another turn of water but only obtained +enough for one day's issue; for the tide did not rise more than +four feet. In the meantime I visited the extreme point on the +west side of the bay, and examined in my way some openings in the +land that, from their appearance, promised to afford water: as it +was low tide I could not enter them, for they were blocked up by +banks of sand and rocks; but on my return the tide was higher, +and I pulled about one mile up the northernmost inlet, where I +was again stopped by the shoalness of the water. All these places +must afford abundance of fresh water during the rainy season, and +perhaps are seldom without; and, as this was a year of unusual +drought, it is not improbable that the river in which we watered +generally afforded a very considerable stream; if so, from its +proximity to the anchorage, the bay is of great importance, and +is an excellent place for refreshment: turtle might be procured +at the islands in its vicinity, and abundance of very fine fish +at the sandy beach: the anchorage is safe in all parts, being +protected from the sea by the islands in the offing, which front +the bay. There is also abundance of wood that may be cut close to +the waterside.</p> +<p>Ships detained during the westerly monsoon, as far to leeward +as the meridian of 125 degrees, would find an advantage in +putting into Hanover Bay, and remaining there until the wind +should veer round: by which they would avoid the necessity of +beating to windward, over such dangerous ground as extends +between this part to Timor; and, by being to the southward, out +of the strength of the westerly winds, at the latter end of +February and beginning of March, when southerly and south-east +winds prevail on the coast, they might much earlier effect their +passage to the westward.</p> +<p>The beach of Hanover Bay is situated in latitude 15 degrees 18 +minutes 21 seconds, and 13 minutes 40 seconds West of our +observatory at Careening Bay, which makes its longitude 124 +degrees 47 minutes 5 seconds East of Greenwich.</p> +<p>August 11.</p> +<p>The next morning (11th) we left Hanover Bay and steered out at +the distance of a mile and a half from the western shore. After +passing round the western head, we entered a deep opening, and, +running into it for some distance between a rocky shore on either +side, came into an extensive basin, in the centre of which was a +high island which we saw at a distance last year, and then called +the Lump, from its shape. As a set of bearings from this island +was desirable, the vessel was anchored abreast of it at about a +mile and a half from the shore; having landed upon it in time to +observe the sun's meridional altitude in the artificial horizon, +we ascended its summit and obtained the desired bearings; we also +discovered Freycinet's Island on the horizon, bearing North 13 +degrees 42 minutes West; this island was distinguished easily by +its form, which is that of an inverted basin. A large island lies +in the centre of the entrance of the port, by which two channels +are formed; the westernmost has several patches of rocks in it, +but the eastern one, which we used, appeared to be clear and free +from danger, excepting a rocky shelf projecting from the eastern +shore for not more than three quarters of a mile. In the +afternoon we examined the former, and from a summit at the +south-west end of the island in the entrance obtained another set +of bearings. Afterwards we sounded its channel, and found a deep +passage, but too narrow and intricate to be preferred to the +eastern channel.</p> +<p>Whilst one boat was thus employed, Mr. Baskerville went to +examine an opening at the bottom of the port, which he reported +to be a strait, trending round to the South-West for six miles, +beyond which his view was intercepted by the next projecting +point. The strait, which he called after Captain R.H. Rogers, +R.N., is sprinkled with many islands and dry reefs of great +extent.</p> +<p>August 12.</p> +<p>On the 12th I was occupied in laying down the plan of this +place, which, on account of the day, was honoured with the name +of our most gracious king, Port George the Fourth.</p> +<p>August 13.</p> +<p>The next day we sailed out by the eastern channel, but having +to beat against the wind, made no further progress than an +anchorage off Point Adieu, which was the last land seen by us in +the Mermaid; it is the north end of the land that forms the west +side of Port George the Fourth, which was afterwards called +Augustus Island: to the westward of the point there appeared to +be many islands and much broken land. I sent Mr. Roe to Point +Adieu to get some bearings from the summit of the hill, and in +the meantime Mr. Baskerville sounded the channel between the +point and the islands; which he found to be deep and clear; Mr. +Roe's report, however, of the appearance of the inner part among +the islands was not so favourable, for it is studded over with +numerous extensive reefs, which, being low water, were exposed to +view. Mr. Roe saw a tolerably broad separation between two +islands to the south-west, but more to the westward the islands +were so numerous that very little information as to their shape +or number could be obtained.</p> +<p>August 14.</p> +<p>At daylight the following morning we weighed, and with a +moderate land-breeze from South-East, steered to the North-West, +and passed round the islands. Very far to the northward on the +sea horizon we saw a sandbank, surrounded with heavy breakers; +and more to the westward was an island, which was at first +supposed to be one of the Champagny Isles of Captain Baudin, but +which I afterwards satisfied myself was Captain Heywood's Red +Island: it is rocky and of small extent and apparently quite +barren. We were soon afterwards abreast of a strait leading +between some rocky islands to the southward; which, as it +appeared to be free from danger, we purposed to steer through. +The brig entered it at noon, when it was high-water, and as she +advanced and reached the narrow part, the ebb-tide was setting so +strong against us that, although we were sailing five knots by +the log, we were losing ground; we continued however to persevere +for three hours and a half, and had run nearly twenty miles by +the log without gaining an inch; the breeze then died away, and +not being able to stem the tide, we steered back for anchorage, +but it was dark and late before a favourable bottom was found so +that we lost all the progress that we had gained since noon.</p> +<p>August 15.</p> +<p>The next morning, after taking angles from the sun's rising +amplitude, we got underweigh and stood towards the strait to make +another attempt to pass through it. The view that was obtained +yesterday evening from the masthead before we put about to look +for anchorage, induced us to suppose that many reefs existed in +the neighbourhood of its south entrance, for one of very +extensive size was observed dry, lying off the south-west end of +the island that bounds the west side of the strait. The north end +of that island also appeared to be fronted by many shoals, which +either embrace Red Island and extend to the northward, or else +the channels are narrow and deep. The flowing tide, now in our +favour, carried us quickly forward: as we passed on we heard the +voices of natives and soon afterwards perceived two standing on a +hill; our course was, however, so rapid that we were soon out of +sight of them; their fires were seen yesterday but then they did +not make their appearance.</p> +<p>The flood-tide, running to the South-West through the strait, +meeting the ebb flowing North-East into the deep bay to the +South-East, formed many strong ripplings, which to a stranger +would have been a frightful vortex to have entered, and although +we had lately been accustomed to such appearances, yet we did not +encounter them without some fear. After clearing them we sounded +on a muddy bottom; upon which, as the weather was so thick and +hazy as to conceal the land from our view, we anchored in +seventeen fathoms muddy sand, at six miles from the strait.</p> +<p>In the afternoon the weather cleared a little, but it was +still too thick for us to be underweigh, so that we remained all +the evening, which was profitably spent in bringing up the chart; +a little before sunset the weather cleared and afforded a good +view of the land, which to the South-East is composed principally +of islands, but so numerous that the mainland could not be +distinguished beyond them; a point, afterwards called Point Hall, +round which the land trended to the southward, bore from the +anchorage South 19 degrees East.</p> +<p>The direction of the tides, the flood setting +South-South-East, and the ebb North-North-West and North-West, +induced me to suppose that the opening to the eastward of the bay +we were at anchor in, which was called Camden, in compliment to +the noble Marquess, was not only connected with Rogers Strait, +but was also the outlet of another considerable river or bay.</p> +<p>At the anchorage the flood did not run at a greater rate than +a mile and a half an hour, but it ebbed two miles, and fell +thirty-seven feet, which is the greatest rise and fall we had yet +found; it is probable, from the intricate nature of the coast, +that these high tides are common to all this neighbourhood.</p> +<p>August 16.</p> +<p>At five o'clock on the morning of the 16th after a fine night +the wind sprung up from the East-South-East and blew fresh; but +misty weather immediately after sunrise enveloped us, and clouded +our view. The breeze was too fresh for us to continue at anchor, +we therefore got underweigh, and made sail by the wind; but upon +standing across the channel and finding that the flood-tide set +to the South-West, we bore away, and, passing round Point Hall, +steered to the southward towards some low islands that were just +visible through the haze, and which, being disposed in a group, +were named after Mr. Andrew Montgomery, the surgeon of the +Bathurst.</p> +<p>At noon our latitude observed to the South was 15 degrees 44 +minutes 16 seconds. The land was visible from the deck as far as +South 30 degrees West, but from the masthead at one o'clock it +was seen as far as South 50 degrees West, and a long low island, +the westernmost of Montgomery Isles, bore from South-West by West +to South-West by South. The group besides this contained six +other isles, which are all low and rocky and crowned with bushes: +as we approached them the water shoaled to ten fathoms rocky +ground; which on being reduced to the depth of low water, would +not be more than five and perhaps only four fathoms. Between +Point Hall and these islands the ground was also rocky, and, as +the group appeared to be connected by reefs, we steered off to +pass round them; the wind, however, changing to the westward, +detained us all the evening near them.</p> +<p>The land to the southward trended deeply in and appeared to be +much broken in its character and very uninviting to us who had +only one anchor to depend upon. This bight was named, at Mr. +Montgomery's request, in compliment to the late Captain Sir +George Collier, Bart., K.C.B., R.N. During the greater part of +the night the wind was light, and by the bearings of a fire on +the land we were making but little drift.</p> +<p>August 17.</p> +<p>At sunrise we were near two low islands, bearing South 12 +degrees 22 minutes West, and South 20 degrees West, from which +very extensive reefs were seen extending between the bearings of +South and South-West by West. They were called Cockells Isles. We +passed round their north end over a bottom of hard sand, mixed +with shells, stones, and coral; in doing which we found an +irregular depth, but as the water did not shoal to less than +twelve fathoms our course was not altered. Soon after the sun +appeared above the horizon the distant land was again enveloped +in mist. At eight o'clock we ventured to steer more southerly, +but continued to sound over a rocky bottom until ten o'clock, +when the islands bore South-East; we then steered South-West +through a muddy channel with the flood tide in our favour, +towards some land that, as the mist partially cleared off, became +visible as far as South-West 1/2 West; some islands were also +seen bearing South-South-East; and at noon, being in latitude 15 +degrees 50 minutes 39 seconds, we found ourselves off a bay, the +east head of which was formed by several islands. The land at the +back appeared to be of tolerable height but its outline was so +level, that it did not present any prominent feature sufficiently +defined to take a bearing of more than once; its coast appeared +to be fronted by several rocky islands and to be very much +intersected to the westward; either by straits or considerable +openings.</p> +<p>The continued hazy state of the weather prevented our +ascertaining the particular feature of the country; it seemed to +be rocky and very bare of vegetation; but they were some parts, +particularly on one of the islands to the eastward at the +entrance of Collier's Bay, where a few good-sized trees were +growing over a sandy beach.</p> +<p>The ebb tide after noon was against us, and the wind being +light, we were making no progress. As sunset approached, we began +to look for anchorage; but the suspicious nature of the bottom +and the great depth of the water prevented our being successful +until some time after dark; the anchor was at last dropped in +twenty-eight fathoms, on a bottom of sandy mud, with the ebb-tide +setting to the North-West, at the rate nearly of two knots.</p> +<p>Several whales of that species called by whalers fin-backs +were playing about us all day, and during the morning two or +three were seen near the vessel lashing the water with their +enormous fins and tails, and leaping at intervals out of the sea, +which foamed around them for a considerable distance.</p> +<p>After anchoring the wind was variable and light from the +western quarter but during the night there was a heavy swell. The +flood-tide, which commenced at nine o'clock, when the depth was +twenty-eight fathoms, gradually ran stronger until midnight, when +its rate was two miles per hour: high-water took place at 3 hours +15 minutes a.m., or at twelve minutes before the moon passed her +meridian; the rise being thirty-six feet.</p> +<p>August 18.</p> +<p>We were underweigh before six o'clock the next morning, and +after steering by the wind for a short time towards the southward +(on which course the tide being against us we were making no +progress) bore up with the intention of hauling round the point +to leeward for anchorage, whence we might examine the place by +the means of our boats, and wait for more favourable weather; but +upon reaching within half a mile of the point we found that a +shoal communication extended across to a string of islands +projecting several miles to sea in a West-North-West direction: +in mid channel the sea was breaking, and from the colour of the +water it is more than probable that a reef of rocks stretches the +whole distance across the strait; but this appearance, from the +experience we afterwards had of the navigation of this part, +might have been produced by tide ripplings, occasioned by the +rapidity of the stream, and by its being contracted in its +passage through so narrow a pass; it was however too doubtful and +dangerous to attempt without having some resource to fly to in +the event of accident.</p> +<p>Being thus disappointed, we were under the necessity of +steering round the above-mentioned range of islands, and at nine +o'clock were two miles North-East by East from the small island +18, when our latitude by observation was 15 degrees 57 minutes 56 +seconds; the depth being thirty-seven fathoms, and the bottom of +coral mixed with sand, mud, and shells.</p> +<p>To the westward and in a parallel direction with this line of +islands was another range, towards which we steered; at sunset we +hauled to the wind for the night, off the northernmost island +which afterwards proved to be the Caffarelli Island of Captain +Baudin. Between these two ranges of islands we only obtained one +cast of the lead which gave us thirty-three fathoms on a coral +bottom. Upon referring to the French charts of this part of the +coast it appeared that we were in the vicinity of a reef (Brue +Reef) under which the French ships had anchored; and, as the +night was passed under sail, we were not a little anxious, +fearing lest there might be others in its neighbourhood.</p> +<p>August 19.</p> +<p>At daybreak Caffarelli Island bore South-South-East; and +shortly afterwards we had the satisfaction of seeing Brue Reef; +it appeared to be partly dry but of small extent.</p> +<p>We passed within half a mile of the dry rock that lies a mile +and a half from the west end of Caffarelli Island and afterwards +endeavoured to steer between the range of islands, of which +Caffarelli is the northernmost, and a group of rocky isles, +marked 33; but finding we could not succeed from the scanty +direction of the wind, then blowing a fresh breeze from +South-East, we bore up round the west side of the latter and then +steered by the wind towards a group of which the island 40 is the +principal. On approaching 40 there appeared to be a channel round +its south-end; but afterwards observing the sea breaking in the +direction of our course, we tacked off to pass round the west +extremity of the group, towards two small low islands, 50 and 51, +that were seen in the distance bearing about South 84 degrees +West. The tide, having been before in our favour, was now against +us, and, setting with great strength, drove us near the rocks +that front the islands to the northward of Island 40; the wind +was however sufficiently strong to enable us to clear the +dangerous situation we found ourselves in, but soon afterwards it +fell to a light air and we were carried by the tide rapidly +towards the low rocky extremity of the islets, which we were +nearly thrown upon, when a breeze suddenly sprung up again from +the South-East and enabled us to clear this impending danger. We +were now drifting to the South by East through a wide channel, +sounding in between fifty and sixty fathoms, rocky bottom. Had +the evening been less advanced and the wind favourable, we could +have run through, and taken our chance of finding either +anchorage or an open sea; and although this would certainly have +been hazarding a great risk, yet it was of very little +consequence in what part of the archipelago we spent the night, +as the spots which we might consider to be the most dangerous +might possibly be the least so. We had however no choice; we were +perfectly at the mercy of the tide, and had only to await +patiently its ebbing to drift us out as it carried us in.</p> +<p>By our calculations high-water should have taken place at a +quarter past four o'clock; every minute therefore after that time +was passed by us most anxiously. Every now and then we were in +the midst of the most violent ripplings and whirlpools, which +sometimes whirled the vessel round and round, to the danger of +our masts. Five o'clock at last arrived and the tide-eddies +ceased, but the stream continued to run until a quarter of an +hour afterwards, when at last the brig began to drift out slowly. +To add now to the dilemma and the danger we were in a breeze +sprung up against us: had it continued calm we should have been +drifted back through the deepest part of the channel, over the +same ground that the flood had carried us in: we however made +sail and beat out, and before dark had made considerable +progress; we then lost sight of the land until eleven o'clock +when some was seen to the eastward: at half-past eleven we had a +dead calm; and, to increase our anxiety, the tide had begun to +flow and to drift us towards the land, which was then ascertained +to be the group 33, on whose shores the sea was distinctly heard +to break. As midnight approached the noise became still more and +more plain; but the moon at that time rose and showed that our +position was very much more favourable than we had conjectured; +for, by bearings of Caffarelli Island and the body of 33 group, I +found we were at least two or three miles from the shore of the +latter.</p> +<p>August 20.</p> +<p>A few minutes after midnight we were relieved from our fears +by the sudden springing up of a fresh breeze from South-West, and +in a moment found ourselves comparatively out of danger.</p> +<p>At daylight we were eight miles to the north-east of +Caffarelli Island; whence we steered to the South-West by West +and South-South-West. Brue Reef was seen as we passed by it. At +noon our latitude was 16 degrees 14 minutes 1 second, Cape +Leveque bearing South.</p> +<p>From noon until one o'clock we were steering South-South-West, +but made no progress, on account of an adverse tide which +occasionally formed such strong eddies and ripplings that we were +several times obliged to steer off to get without their +influence. The land of Cape Leveque is low, and presents a sandy +beach lined by a rocky reef, extending off the shore for a mile, +on many parts of which the sea was breaking heavily: the land was +clothed with a small brush wood, but altogether the coast +presented a very unproductive appearance, and reminded us of the +triste and arid character of the North-West Cape.</p> +<p>On laying down upon the chart the plan of this part, I found +Cape Leveque to be the point which Dampier anchored under when on +his buccaneering voyage in the Cygnet in 1688. He says: "We fell +in with the land of New Holland in 16 degrees 50 minutes, we ran +in close by it, and finding no convenient anchoring, because it +lies open to the North-West, we ran along shore to the eastward, +steering North-East by East, for so the land lies. We steered +thus about two leagues, and then came to a point of land, from +whence the land trends east and southerly for ten or twelve +leagues; but how, afterwards, I know not. About three leagues to +the eastward of this point there is a pretty deep bay with +abundance of islands in it, and a very good place to anchor in or +to hale ashore. About a league to the eastward of that point we +anchored in twenty-nine fathom, good hard sand and clean ground." +He then proceeds to say: "This part of it (the coast) that we saw +is all low, even land, with sandy banks against the sea, only the +points are rocky, and so are some of the islands in the +bay."*</p> +<blockquote>(*Footnote. Dampier volume 1 page 462.)</blockquote> +<p>From this description I have little hesitation in settling +Cape Leveque to be the point he passed round. In commemoration, +therefore, of his visit, the name of Buccaneer's Archipelago was +given to the cluster of isles that fronts Cygnet Bay, which was +so-called after the name of the ship in which he sailed. The +point within Cape Leveque was named Point Swan after the Captain +of the ship; and to a remarkable lump in the centre of the +Archipelago the name of Dampier's Monument was assigned. During +the last four days we have laid down upwards of eighty islands +upon the chart, and from the appearance of the land it is not +improbable but that there may be as many more behind them.</p> +<p>Had we even recognised the bay above alluded to by Dampier +before we passed round Cape Leveque, we could not have anchored +in it for the wind was blowing strong from the northward, and a +heavy swell was rolling, which would have placed us in rather a +dangerous situation, besides its being exposed to easterly winds, +which for the last two or three days had blown very strong. +During the time we had been among these islands, we had not met +with a single spot that we could have anchored upon without the +almost certain loss of our anchor; and the weather had been so +very thick and hazy that only the land in the vicinity of the +vessel's situation could be at all distinguished; and these +disadvantages, added to the great strength of the wind and the +rapidity of the tides, had materially prevented us from making +ourselves better acquainted with the place. It is remarkable that +as soon as we passed round the Champagny Isles, hazy weather +commenced, and continued without intermission until we were to +the westward of Cape Leveque. The French complain of the same +thing; and they were so deceived by it that, in their first +voyage, they laid down Adele Island as a part of the main, when +it is only a sandy island about two or three miles long. No +natives were seen on any of the islands but there were many large +smokes on the horizon at the back of Cygnet Bay.</p> +<p>We were now beginning to feel the effects of this fatiguing +duty. One-fourth of the people who kept watch were ill with +bilious or feverish attacks, and we had never been altogether +free from sickness since our arrival upon the coast. Mr. +Montgomery's wound was, however, happily quite healed, and Mr. +Roe had also returned to his duty; but Mr. Cunningham, who had +been confined to the vessel since the day we arrived in Careening +Bay, was still upon the sick list. Our passage up the east coast, +the fatigues of watering and wooding at Prince Regent's River, +and our constant harassing employment during the examination of +the coast between Hanover Bay and Cape Leveque, had produced +their bad effects upon the constitutions of our people. Every +means were taken to prevent sickness: preserved meats were issued +two days in the week in lieu of salt provisions; and this diet, +with the usual proportions of lemon-juice and sugar, proved so +good an anti-scorbutic that, with a few trifling exceptions, no +case of scurvy occurred. Our dry provisions had suffered much +from rats and cockroaches; but this was not the only way these +vermin annoyed us, for, on opening a keg of musket ball +cartridges, we found, out of 750 rounds, more than half the +number quite destroyed, and the remainder so injured as to be +quite useless.</p> +<p>August 21.</p> +<p>The following day we made very little progress, from light +winds in the morning and a dead calm the whole of the evening. At +sunset we anchored at about four miles from the shore, in +seventeen fathoms sandy ground.</p> +<p>During the afternoon we were surrounded by an immense number +of whales, leaping out of the water and thrashing the sea with +their fins; the noise of which, from the calmness and perfect +stillness of the air, was as loud as the report of a volley of +musketry. Some remorae were also swimming about the vessel the +whole day, and a snake about four feet long, of a yellowish brown +colour, rose up alongside, but instantly dived upon seeing the +vessel.</p> +<p>August 22.</p> +<p>High-water took place the next morning at twenty-six minutes +after six o'clock, at which time we got underweigh with a +moderate land-breeze from South-South-East, and steered to the +southward along the shore. At noon we were in latitude 16 degrees +30 minutes 19 seconds, Cape Borda bearing South 42 1/2 degrees +East. Soon after noon the sea-breeze sprung up from the northward +and, veering to North-West, carried us to the southward along the +coast which is low and sandy. At three o'clock we were abreast of +a point which was conjectured to be the land laid down by the +French as Emeriau Island; the name has therefore been retained, +with the alteration only of Point for Island. To the eastward of +Cape Borda the coast falls back and forms a bay, the bottom of +which was visible from our masthead and appeared to be composed +of sand-downs. From Point Emeriau the coast trends to the +south-west, and preserves the same sandy character. At five +o'clock Lacepede Islands, which were seen by Captain Baudin, were +in sight to the westward; and at sunset we anchored in eight +fathoms, at about three leagues within them. These islands are +three in number, and appear to be solely inhabited by boobies and +other sea-fowl: they are low and sandy and all slightly crowned +with a few shrubby bushes; the reef that encompasses them seemed +to be of great extent.</p> +<p>August 23.</p> +<p>The next day we were steering along the shore, and passed a +sandy projection which was named Cape Baskerville, after one of +the midshipman of the Bathurst. To the southward of Cape +Baskerville the coast trends in, and forms Carnot Bay; it then +takes a southerly direction. It is here that Tasman landed, +according to the following extract from Dalrymple's Papua: "In +Hollandia Nova, in 17 degrees 12 minutes South (Longitude 121 +degrees, or 122 degrees East) Tasman found a naked, black people, +with curly hair, malicious and cruel; using for arms, bows and +arrows, hazeygaeys and kalawaeys. They once came to the number of +fifty, double armed, dividing themselves into two parties, +intending to have surprised the Dutch, who had landed twenty-five +men; but the firing of guns frightened them so, that they fled. +Their proas are made of the bark of trees; their coast is +dangerous; there are few vegetables; the people use no +houses."</p> +<p>At noon our latitude was 17 degrees 13 minutes 29 seconds. At +four o'clock we were abreast of Captain Baudin's Point Coulomb, +which M. De Freycinet describes to be the projection at which the +Red Cliffs commence. The interior is here higher than to the +northward, and gradually rises, at the distance of eight miles +from the shore, to wooded hills, and bears a more pleasing and +verdant appearance than we have seen for some time past; but the +coast still retains the same sandy and uninviting character. +During the afternoon we had but a light sea-breeze from the +westward; and at sunset the anchor was dropped in thirteen +fathoms fine soft sand, at about six miles from the shore. Large +flocks of boobies flew over the vessel at sunset, directing their +course towards the reefs of Lacepede Islands, and in the +direction of the Whale Bank, which, according to the French chart +of this part, lies in the offing to the westward. As no island +was noticed by us in the position assigned to Captain Baudin's +Carnot Island, the bay to the southward of Cape Baskerville has +received that name. The smokes of fires have been noticed at +intervals of every four or five miles along the shore, from which +it may be inferred that this part of the coast is very populous. +Captain Dampier saw forty Indians together, on one of the rocky +islands to the eastward of Cape Leveque, and, in his quaint +style, gives the subjoined interesting account of them:</p> +<p>"The inhabitants of this country are the miserablest people in +the world. The Hodmadods of Monomatapa, though a nasty people, +yet for wealth are gentlemen to these; who have no houses, and +skin garments, sheep, poultry, and fruits of the earth, ostrich +eggs, etc., as the Hodmadods have: and setting aside their human +shape, they differ but little from brutes. They are tall, +straight-bodied, and thin, with small, long limbs. They have +great heads, round foreheads, and great brows. Their eye-lids are +always half closed, to keep the flies out of their eyes; they +being so troublesome here, that no fanning will keep them from +coming to one's face; and without the assistance of both hands to +keep them off, they will creep into one's nostrils, and mouth +too, if the lips are not shut very close; so that from their +infancy, being thus annoyed with these insects, they do never +open their eyes as other people; and therefore they cannot see +far, unless they hold up their heads, as if they were looking at +somewhat over them.</p> +<p>"They have great bottle-noses, pretty full lips, and wide +mouths. The two fore-teeth of their upper jaw are wanting in all +of them, men and women, old and young; whether they draw them +out, I know not: neither have they any beards. They are +long-visaged, and of a very unpleasant aspect, having no one +graceful feature in their faces. Their hair is black, short and +curled, like that of the negroes; and not long and lank like the +common Indians. The colour of their skins, both of their faces +and the rest of their body, is coal-black, like that of the +negroes of Guinea.*</p> +<blockquote>(*Footnote. The natives of Hanover Bay, with whom we +communicated, were not deprived of their front teeth, and wore +their beards long; they also differed from the above description +in having their hair long and curly. Dampier may have been +deceived in this respect, and from the use that they make of +their hair, by twisting it up into a substitute for thread, they +had probably cut it off close, which would give them the +appearance of having woolly hair like the negro.)</blockquote> +<p>"They have no sort of clothes, but a piece of the rind of a +tree tied like a girdle about their waists, and a handful of long +grass, or three or four small green boughs full of leaves, thrust +under their girdle, to cover their nakedness.</p> +<p>"They have no houses, but lie in the open air without any +covering; the earth being their bed, and the heaven their canopy. +Whether they cohabit one man to one woman, or promiscuously, I +know not; but they do live in companies, twenty or thirty men, +women, and children together. Their only food is a small sort of +fish, which they get by making weirs of stone across little coves +or branches of the sea; every tide bringing in the small fish, +the there leaving them for a prey to these people, who constantly +attend there to search for them at low water. This small fry I +take to be the top of their fishery: they have no instruments to +catch great fish, should they come; and such seldom stay to be +left behind at low water: nor could we catch any fish with our +hooks and lines all the while we lay there. In other places at +low water they seek for cockles, mussels, and periwinkles. Of +these shell-fish there are fewer still; so that their chief +dependence is upon what the sea leaves in their wares; which, be +it much or little, they gather up, and march to the places of +their abode. There the old people that are not able to stir +abroad by reason of their age, and the tender infants, wait their +return; and what Providence has bestowed on them, they presently +broil on the coals, and eat it in common. Sometimes they get as +many fish as makes them a plentiful banquet; and at other times +they scarce get every one a taste; but be it little or much that +they get, every one has his part, as well the young and tender, +the old and feeble, who are not able to go abroad, as the strong +and lusty. When they have eaten they lie down till the next low +water, and then all that are able march out, be it night or day, +rain or shine, 'tis all one; they must attend the weirs, or else +they must fast; for the earth affords them no food at all. There +is neither herb, root, pulse, nor any sort of grain for them to +eat, that we saw; nor any sort of bird or beast that they can +catch, having no instruments wherewithal to do so.</p> +<p>"I did not perceive that they did worship anything. These poor +creatures have a sort of weapon to defend their weir, or fight +with their enemies, if they have any that will interfere with +their poor fishery. They did at first endeavour with their +weapons to frighten us, who, lying ashore, deterred them from one +of their fishing-places. Some of them had wooden swords, others +had a sort of lances. The sword is a piece of wood shaped +somewhat like a cutlass.* The lance is a long straight pole, +sharp at one end, and hardened afterwards by heat. I saw no iron, +nor any sort of metal; therefore it is probable they use stone +hatchets, as some Indians in America do, described in Chapter +4.</p> +<blockquote>(*Footnote. Probably a boomerang. See volume +1.)</blockquote> +<p>"How they get their fire I know not; but probably as Indians +do, out of wood. I have seen the Indians of Bon-Airy do it, and +have myself tried the experiment. They take a flat piece of wood +that is pretty soft, and make a small dent in one side of it, +then they take another hard, round stick, about the bigness of +one's little finger, and sharpened at one end like a pencil, they +put that sharp end in the hole or dent of the flat soft piece, +and then rubbing or twirling the hard piece between the palm of +their hands, they drill the soft piece till it smokes, and at +last takes fire.</p> +<p>"These people speak somewhat through the throat; but we could +not understand one word that they said. We anchored, as I said +before, January the 5th, and seeing men walking on the shore, we +presently sent a canoe to get some acquaintance with them; for we +were in hopes to get some provision among them. But the +inhabitants, seeing our boat coming, run away and hid themselves. +We searched afterwards three days in hopes to find their houses, +but found none; yet we saw many places where they had made fires. +At last, being out of hopes to find their habitations, we +searched no farther; but left a great many toys ashore, in such +places where we thought they would come. In all our search we +found no water, but old wells on the sandy bays.</p> +<p>"At last we went over to the islands, and there we found a +great many of the natives; I do believe there were forty on one +island, men, women, and children. The men on our first coming +ashore, threatened us with their lances and swords; but they were +frightened by firing one gun, which we fired purposely to scare +them. The island was so small that they could not hide +themselves; but they were much disordered at our landing, +especially the women and children; for we went directly to their +camp. The lustiest of the women snatching up their infants ran +away howling, and the little children run after squeaking and +bawling; but the men stood still. Some of the women, and such +people as could not go from us, lay still by a fire, making a +doleful noise, as if we had been coming to devour them: but when +they saw we did not intend to harm them, they were pretty quiet, +and the rest that fled from us at our first coming, returned +again. This their place of dwelling was only a fire, with a few +boughs before it, set up on the side the winds was of.</p> +<p>"After we had been here a little while, the men began to be +familiar, and we clothed some of them, designing to have some +service of them for it; for we found some wells of water here, +and intended to carry two or three barrels of it aboard. But it +being somewhat troublesome to carry to the canoes, we thought to +have made these men to have carried it for us, and therefore we +gave them some old clothes; to one an old pair of breeches, to +another a ragged shirt, to the third a jacket that was scarce +worth owning; which yet would have been very acceptable at some +places where we had been, and so we thought they might have been +with these people. We put them on them, thinking that this finery +would have brought them to work heartily for us; and our water +being filled in small long barrels, about six gallons in each, +which were made purposely to carry water in, we brought these our +new servants to the wells, and put a barrel on each of their +shoulders for them to carry to the canoe. But all the signs we +could make were to no purpose, for they stood like statues, +without motion, but grinned like so many monkeys, staring one +upon another; for these poor creatures seem not accustomed to +carry burdens; and I believe that one of our ship-boys of ten +years old would carry as much as one of them. So we were forced +to carry our water ourselves, and they very fairly put the +clothes off again, and laid them down, as if clothes were only to +work in. I did not perceive that they had any great liking to +them at first, neither did they seem to admire anything that we +had.</p> +<p>"At another time our canoe being among these islands seeking +for game, espied a drove of these men swimming from one island to +another; for they have no boats, canoes, or bark-logs. They took +four of them, and brought them aboard; two of them were +middle-aged, the other two were young men about eighteen or +twenty years old. To these we gave boiled rice, and with it +turtle and manatee boiled. They did greedily devour what we gave +them, but took no notice of the ship, or any thing in it, and +when they were set on land again, they ran away as fast as they +could. At our first coming, before we were acquainted with them, +or they with us, a company of them who lived on the main, came +just against our ship, and standing on a pretty high bank, +threatened us with their swords and lances, by shaking them at +us: at last the captain ordered the drum to be beaten, which was +done of a sudden with much vigour, purposely to scare the poor +creatures. They hearing the noise, ran away as fast as they could +drive; and when they ran away in haste, they would cry gurry, +gurry, speaking deep in the throat. Those inhabitants also that +live on the main would always run away from us; yet we took +several of them. For, as I have already observed, they had such +bad eyes, that they could not see us till we came close to them. +We did always give them victuals, and let them go again, but the +islanders, after our first time of being among them, did not stir +for us."*</p> +<blockquote> +<p>(*Footnote. Dampier volume 1 page 464 et seq.)</p> +</blockquote> +<p>At this anchorage we perceived very little rise and fall of +tide, and the flood and ebb both set to the northward, this was +also the case at our anchorage within the Lacepede Islands. At +four o'clock the next morning a strong south-easterly breeze +sprang up, and moderated again before we weighed; but no sooner +were we under sail than it freshened again, and, at half-past +five o'clock, blew so strong as to oblige our double reefing the +topsails, which had not been done for many weeks before. At noon +the wind fell, and was very calm, at which time our latitude +observed was 17 degrees 36 minutes 38 seconds. The highest part +of the land bore North 70 1/2 degrees East, south of which a +sandy point, supposed to be Captain Baudin's Cape Boileau, bore +South 87 degrees East; and a smoke, a little to the northward of +the masthead extreme, bearing South 42 degrees East must be upon +the land in the neighbourhood of Cape Latreille.</p> +<p>Soon after noon the breeze veered round by South to +West-South-West, and enabled us to make some progress; at sunset +we again anchored in thirteen fathoms, soft sand, at six miles +from a sandy projection of the main, which we afterwards found to +be the land called by Captain Baudin, Gantheaume Island; the name +has therefore been given to the point, for there was no +appearance of its being insulated. It bears a truly desolate +appearance, being nothing but ridges of bare white sand, scantily +crowned with a few shrubby bushes.</p> +<p>Behind Point Gantheaume the land appeared to be formed by +downs of very white sand; and between this point and Cape Boileau +is a bay, which at first, from the direction of the flood stream +at the anchorage, was conjectured to be an inlet; but as the tide +afterwards set to the Northward and North-East, it was concluded +to be occasioned by the stream sweeping round the shores of the +bay: according to the depth alongside there was a rise of ten +feet; after high-water the ebb set between North 1/2 West and +North-North-East, at the rate of a quarter to three quarters of a +knot.</p> +<p>During the whole day the horizon was occupied by haze, and +produced a very remarkable effect upon the land, which was so +raised above the horizon by refraction that many distant objects +became visible that could not otherwise have been seen. This +mirage had been frequently observed by us on various parts of the +coast, but never produced so extraordinary an effect as on the +present occasion. The coastline appeared to be formed of high +chalky cliffs, crowned by a narrow band of woody hillocks; and +the land of Cape Villaret was so elevated as to be distinctly +seen at the distance of forty miles, whereas two days afterwards, +the weather being clear, it was not visible above the horizon for +more than five leagues. This state of the atmosphere caused a +rapid evaporation during the day, and as the evening approached a +very copious dew commenced falling, which by sunset was +precipitated like a shower of rain.</p> +<p>The next morning the land was again enveloped in haze, but at +seven o'clock it cleared off a little, and the coast was observed +to trend round Point Gantheaume to the south-east, but as we had +last evening seen it as far to the westward as South-West by +South, we steered in the latter direction under the idea of there +being no opening to the southward of the point, since the +flood-tide flowed from it instead of towards it, as it naturally +would have done had there been any inlet of consequence +thereabout.</p> +<p>As usual, we had been surrounded by whales, and large flights +of boobies; one of the latter lighted upon the deck this +afternoon, and was easily taken; it seemed to be the same bird +(Pelecanus fiber) that frequents the reefs upon the north and +north-eastern coasts. Between sunrise and midday our progress was +much retarded by light south-easterly winds. At noon we were in +17 degrees 51 minutes 45 seconds South: after which the +sea-breeze set in from South-South-West and South-West, and we +steered to the southward. The land was now visible considerably +to the southward of Point Gantheaume, but of a very low and sandy +character; and as we proceeded it came in sight to the +South-South-West. At sunset we anchored about five or six miles +to the north of Captain Baudin's Cape Villaret; the extreme, +which was in sight a little without it, was doubtless his Cape +Latouche-Treville. From Cape Villaret the land trended to the +East-North-East, and was seen very nearly to join the shore at +the back of Point Gantheaume.</p> +<p>The dew was precipitated as copiously this evening as the +last, and the sun set in a very dense bank; but the night was +throughout fine. We now began to experience a more considerable +set of tide than we had found since rounding Cape Leveque, for +the rate was as much as a knot and a half; but as the tides were +neaped it only rose nine feet.</p> +<p>At an anchorage near this spot, in the year 1699, Captain +Dampier remarks that the tide rose and fell five fathoms, and ran +so strong that his nun-buoy would not watch: but the French +expedition, at an anchorage a little to the southward, found the +flood-tide to set South-South-East and to rise only nine feet, +the moon being then three days past her full. All these +particulars have been mentioned, since it is from the nature of +the tides that Captain Dampier formed his hypothesis of the +existence of either a strait or an opening between this and the +Rosemary Islands; but from our experience it would appear more +probable that these great tides are occasioned by the numerous +inlets that intersect the coast between this and Cape Voltaire; a +further examination, however, can only prove the real cause.</p> +<p>August 26.</p> +<p>At daylight (26th) we weighed with a light breeze from +South-West, but soon afterwards falling calm, and the tide +drifting us to the South-East the anchor was again dropped: ten +minutes afterwards a land breeze from East-South-East sprung up, +to which we again weighed, but no sooner were we under sail than +we were enveloped in a thick mist that blew off the land, where +it had been collecting for the last two days. At eleven o'clock +the fog cleared away to seaward, but the land was screened from +our view until noon, when a sea breeze from west gradually +dispersed the fog, and the hillocky summit of Cape +Latouche-Treville was seen, bearing South 17 degrees West. At +half-past twelve two rocky lumps on the land to the westward of +Cape Villaret were seen, and very soon afterwards the hill on the +cape made its appearance. Between Capes Villaret and +Latouche-Treville is a bay formed by very low sandy land, +slightly clothed with a stunted vegetation. The wind was now +unfavourable for our approaching the land, and after standing off +to sea and then towards the shore we anchored in thirteen fathoms +coarse sand.</p> +<p>At this anchorage we found a still greater difference in the +tides than was experienced the night preceding; the flood set +South-East by East and East-South-East; and the ebb from +North-North-East round to West-North-West; the rise was sixteen +feet and a half, from which it would appear probable that there +must be some reason for so great an indraught of water into the +bight between Cape Villaret and Point Gantheaume, which I have +named Roebuck Bay, after the ship that Captain Dampier commanded +when he visited this part of the coast.</p> +<p>As the wind now blew constantly from the South-West, or from +some southern direction, and caused our progress to be very slow +and tedious; and as the shore for some distance to the southward +of Cape Latouche-Treville had been partly seen by the French, I +resolved upon leaving the coast. Our water was also nearly +expended, and our provisions, generally, were in a very bad +state; besides which the want of a second anchor was so much felt +that we dared not venture into any difficulty where the +appearance of the place invited a particular investigation, on +account of the exposed nature of the coast, and the strength of +the tides, which were now near the springs: upon every +consideration, therefore, it was not deemed prudent to rely any +longer upon the good fortune that had hitherto so often attended +us in our difficulties.</p> +<p>August 27.</p> +<p>Accordingly after weighing, we steered off by the wind, and +directed our course for Mauritius.</p> +<p>1821. September 22.</p> +<p>On the 22nd September at daylight after a passage of +twenty-five days we saw Roderigues, five or six leagues to the +northward. In the evening a fresh gale sprung up from the +southward and we experienced very bad weather: at noon of the +24th by our calculation we were seventy-three miles due East from +the north end of Mauritius and, having the day before experienced +a westerly current of one mile per hour, we brought to at sunset +for the night, from the fear of getting too near the shore.</p> +<p>September 25.</p> +<p>At daylight the following morning, being by the reckoning only +thirty-four miles to the eastward of the north end of the island, +we bore up for it; but the land, being enveloped in clouds, was +not seen until noon; we then found ourselves off the south-east +end, instead of the north point; having been set to the southward +since yesterday noon at the rate of three quarters of a mile an +hour: in consequence of which we determined upon going round the +south side, and bore up for that purpose; upon approaching the +land we found another current setting us to the north.</p> +<p>September 26.</p> +<p>The next morning at nine o'clock we passed round the Morne +Brabant, the south-west point of the island, but it was four +o'clock before we reached our anchorage (at a cable's length +within the flag beacon at the entrance of Port Louis) in fifteen +fathoms mud; we were then visited by the Health Officer, and +afterwards by a boat from H.M. Ship Menai, which was at anchor in +the port.</p> +<p>September 27.</p> +<p>But as it was too late that evening to enter the brig was not +moved until the following morning, when she was warped in and +moored head and stern within the harbour.</p> +<p>My wants were immediately made known to Captain Moresby, C.B. +(of H.M. Ship Menai) who directed the necessary repairs to be +performed by the carpenters of his ship; those articles which +could not be supplied from the Menai's stores were advertised for +in the Mauritius Gazette, when the most reasonable tenders were +accepted.</p> +<p>As many of the carpenters and caulkers of the Menai as could +be spared from their other occupations were daily employed upon +our repairs; but from her being put into quarantine and other +unforeseen delays they were not completed for nearly a month: our +sails were repaired by the Menai's sailmakers; and, as all our +running rigging was condemned and we had very little spare rope +on board, her rope-makers made sufficient for our wants. The +greater part of our bread, being found in a damaged state from +leaks, was surveyed and condemned.</p> +<p>Captain Flinders' account of Mauritius appears to have been +drawn up with much correctness and judgment, and is, even at the +present day, so descriptive of the island as to be considered, +both by the English and French residents of Port Louis, as the +best that has yet been given to the world. Many alterations and +considerable improvements have however taken place since his +departure, and among the latter the improved system of the +culture of the sugar cane, and the introduction of modern +machinery into their mills, may be particularly mentioned. These +have been effected entirely by the political changes that have, +since Captain Flinders' captivity, taken place in the government +of the island; and by the example and exertions of the English, +who possess very large plantations, and indeed may be considered +now as the principal proprietors of the land.</p> +<blockquote> +<p>(*Footnote. It afforded me very great pleasure to hear the +high terms in which my late friend and predecessor Captain +Flinders was spoken of by the inhabitants of this island, and +their general regret at his infamous detention. His friend M. +Pitot had lately died, but I met many French gentlemen who were +acquainted with him. General Decaen, the governor, was so much +disliked by the inhabitants that Captain Flinders gained many +friends at his expense who would not otherwise have troubled +themselves about him; and this circumstance probably went far +towards increasing the severity of the treatment he so unjustly +received. An anecdote of him was related to me by a resident of +Port Louis, which, as it redounds to his honour, I cannot lose +the gratification of recording.</p> +<p>When Captain Flinders was at the house of Madame d'Arifat in +the district of Plains Wilhelms, in which he was latterly +permitted to reside upon his parole, an opportunity of escaping +from the island was offered to him by the commander of a ship +bound to India: it was urged to him by his friends that, from the +tyrannical treatment he had received and the unjustifiable +detention he was enduring, no parole to such a man as General +Decaen ought to be thought binding or prevent him from regaining +his liberty and embracing any opportunity of returning to his +friends and country. The escape was well planned, and no chance +of discovery likely to happen: the ship sailed from Port Louis, +and at night, bringing to on the leeward side of the island +abreast of Captain Flinders' residence, sent a boat to the +appointed spot which was six miles only from Madame d'Arifat's +house; but after waiting until near daylight without the captain +making his appearance the boat returned to the vessel, which was +obliged to pursue her voyage to prevent suspicion.</p> +<p>It is almost needless to add that Captain Flinders did not +think it consistent with his feelings to take advantage of the +opportunity, nor to effect his escape from imprisonment by a +conduct so disgraceful to the character of a British officer and +to the honourable profession to which he belonged.)</p> +</blockquote> +<p>For some years past coffee has entirely failed upon the island +and cotton is seldom seen growing. The principal attention of the +habitans appeared to be given to the cultivation of the sugar +cane and maize, both of which had begun to produce an abundant +return to the planters; the manihot is also generally cultivated: +but the dreadful effects of the hurricanes to which this island +is exposed render property of so precarious and doubtful a tenure +that nothing is secure until the season for these destructive +visitations is over; they last from the beginning of December to +the end of April and generally occur about the full of the moon, +being invariably preceded by an unsteady motion of the mercury in +the barometer. They are not always so violent as to be termed +hurricanes: the last experienced before our visit was merely a +coup de vent, by which very little damage was sustained.*</p> +<blockquote>(*Footnote. In the month of January, 1824 this +unfortunate island was again visited and laid waste by a +tremendous hurricane that did very considerable damage, and has +in a great measure destroyed the prosperous state which the +island was beginning to arrive at from the previous long absence +of this dreadful visitation.)</blockquote> +<p>The town of Port Louis which is at the north-west, or leeward, +side of the island, is built at the extremity of an amphitheatre +of low land, backed in by a high and precipitous range, upon +which Peter Botte and the Pouce are conspicuous features. The +streets are laid out at rightangles, the principal of which lead +from the Chaussee to the Champ de Mars, a plot of grassy land +about half a mile square that intervenes between the town and the +hills. This is the promenade, the drive, the racecourse, and, in +fact, the principal resort for the inhabitants. It is skirted by +houses and gardens and is a valuable acquisition to the town. The +Chaussee and other streets are well furnished with useful shops +of which those of the Tinman, the Druggist, and the Conservateur +et Patissier, are the most numerous.</p> +<p>The houses, generally of wood, are irregularly built, and far +from being elegant in their appearance; those however that have +been lately constructed by our countrymen have already given the +place an appearance of solidity that it could not boast of +before, and several substantial stone dwellings and stones have +lately been erected. The roads for seven or eight miles out of +the town, leading to Pamplemousses, to Plains Wilhelms and to +Moca districts, are very good and are kept in repair partly by +Malabar convicts from India; but travelling beyond that distance +is performed in palanquins which four bearers will carry, at a +steady pace, at the rate of six miles per hour.</p> +<p>At the time of our visit there were few fruits ripe; but when +we were about to sail the mango of delicious flavour began to be +common; besides which there were coconuts, guavas, papaws, +grapes, the letchy (or let-chis, a Chinese fruit) and some +indifferent pineapples. The ship's company were supplied daily +with fresh beef and vegetables. The latter were procured in +abundance at the bazaar and were exceedingly fine, particularly +carrots and cabbages of an unusually large size and fine flavour. +Bullocks are imported into the island from Madagascar, in which +trade there are two vessels constantly engaged during the fine +season.</p> +<p>Horses are very scarce; they are imported from the Cape of +Good Hope and fetch a high price: a cargo of a hundred and +seventy-seven mules arrived from Buenos Ayres while we were at +Port Louis, which, on being sold by auction, averaged each one +hundred and eighty dollars. To encourage the importation of these +useful animals a premium of five dollars is offered by the +government for every mule that is brought alive to the +island.</p> +<p>The circulating medium was principally of paper but bore a +very great depreciation; the premium upon bills of exchange upon +Europe, at the time of our departure, was as much as 66 to 76 per +cent, and upon silver coin there was a depreciation of 45 per +cent.</p> +<p>On the voyage to this place three charts of the north-west +coast were reduced and copied by Mr. Roe and were forwarded to +the Admiralty by H.M. Sloop Cygnet, together with a brief account +of our voyage from the time that we parted company with the Dick, +off Cape Van Diemen.</p> +<p>No observations were taken at this place excepting for +ascertaining the rates of the chronometers, and for the variation +and dip of the magnetic needle: the former being 12 degrees 31 +minutes West, and the latter 51 degrees 42 minutes 1 second. The +situation of the observatory has been long since fixed by the +Abbe de la Caille in 20 degrees 10 minutes South latitude, and 57 +degrees 29 minutes East longitude.</p> +<p>I cannot conclude this very brief account of our visit to +Mauritius without expressing my acknowledgments for the +civilities and hospitality we received from our countrymen at +Port Louis, particularly from His Excellency Sir Robert T. +Farquhar, Bart., who so long and ably presided as Governor of the +Island; and for the valuable assistance rendered me in our +re-equipment by Captain Fairfax Moresby, C.B., of H.M. Ship +Menai, for which the expedition I had the honour to command is +under more than a common professional obligation.</p> +<p><a name="chapter03"></a></p> +<h3>CHAPTER 3.</h3> +<blockquote>Departure from Port Louis.<br> +Voyage to the South-west Coast of New Holland.<br> +Anchor in King George the Third's Sound.<br> +Occurrences there.<br> +Visited by the Natives.<br> +Our intercourse with them.<br> +Descriptions of their weapons and other implements.<br> +Vocabulary of their language.<br> +Meteorological and other observations.<br> +Edible plants.<br> +Testaceous productions.</blockquote> +<p>1821. November 10.</p> +<p>On the 10th November we were ready for sea.</p> +<p>November 15.</p> +<p>But, from various delays, did not quit the port until the +15th. At midnight we passed round the Morne Brabant, and the next +evening at sunset saw the high land of Bourbon: for the first two +days we had south-east winds and upon reaching the parallel of 25 +degrees, the winds became light and baffling with calms.</p> +<p>November 21.</p> +<p>But as we advanced more to the southward they gradually veered +to east and north-east, and afterwards to north-west, with very +fine weather.</p> +<p>November 28.</p> +<p>We did not get out of the influence of these variable winds +until the 28th when we were at noon in latitude 32 degrees 47 +minutes and longitude 65 degrees 5 minutes; after which we +encountered westerly winds and rough weather. On the whole we had +a very quick passage to the coast of New Holland; and for the +last week were expedited by a strong westerly gale without +encountering any accident or the occurrence of any circumstance +worth recording.</p> +<p>1821. December 23.</p> +<p>On the 23rd December at daylight the land about Cape Chatham +was in sight, and a course was directed to the eastward for King +George's Sound; where it was my intention to complete our wood +and water previous to commencing the examination of the west +coast. At four o'clock in the afternoon we hauled round Bald Head +and, entering the Sound, soon afterwards anchored at one mile +from the entrance of Princess Royal Harbour.</p> +<p>December 24.</p> +<p>Having at our former visit re-fitted at Oyster Harbour, I +wished on this occasion to try Princess Royal Harbour; but as I +was both unacquainted with its entrance, as well as its +convenience for our purposes, excepting from Captain Flinders' +account, I hoisted the boat out early the next morning, to make +the necessary examination before the sea-breeze commenced. Whilst +the boat was preparing a distant shouting was heard, and upon our +looking attentively towards the entrance several Indians were +seen sitting on the rocks on the north head hallooing and waving +to us, but no further notice than a return of their call was +taken until after breakfast, when we pulled towards them in the +whale-boat. As we drew near the shore they came down to receive +us and appeared from their gestures to invite our landing; but in +this they were disappointed, for, after a little vociferation and +gesture on both sides, we pulled into the harbour, whilst they +walked along the beach abreast the boat. As the motions of every +one of them were attentively watched it was evident that they +were not armed; each wore a kangaroo-skin cloak over his left +shoulder that covered the back and breast but left the right arm +exposed. Upon reaching the spot which Captain Flinders occupied +in the Investigator I found that the brig could not anchor near +enough to the shore to carry on our different operations without +being impeded by the natives, even though they should be amicably +disposed. Our plan was therefore altered and, as the anchorage +formerly occupied by the Mermaid in the entrance of Oyster +Harbour would be on all accounts more convenient for our +purposes, I determined upon going thither.</p> +<p>By this time the natives had reached that part of the beach +where the boat was lying, and were wading through the water +towards us; but as we had no wish at present to communicate with +them, for fear that, by refusing anything we had in the boat, for +which their importunity would perhaps be very great, a quarrel +might be occasioned, we pulled off into deeper water where we +remained for five minutes parleying with them, during which they +plainly expressed their disappointment and mortification at our +want of confidence. Upon making signs for fresh water, which they +instantly understood, they called out to us "badoo, badoo," and +pointed to a part of the bay where Captain Flinders has marked a +rivulet. Badoo, in the Port Jackson language, means water; it was +thought probable that they must have obtained it from some late +visitors; and in this opinion we were confirmed, for the word +kangaroo was also familiar to them.*</p> +<blockquote>(*Footnote. The San Antonio, merchant brig, the +vessel that joined our company during our passage up the east +coast, visited this port in December 1820 and communicated with +the natives; it is therefore probable that the above words were +obtained from that vessel's crew.)</blockquote> +<p>Upon our return towards the entrance the natives walked upon +the beach abreast the boat, and kept with her until we pulled out +of the entrance, when they resumed their former station upon the +rocks and we returned on board.</p> +<p>Upon reaching the brig, the anchor was weighed, and with a +fresh sea-breeze from South-East we soon reached Oyster Harbour, +but in crossing the bar the vessel took the ground in eleven and +a half feet water, and it was some time before we succeeded in +heaving her over, and reaching the anchorage we had occupied at +our last visit. Whilst warping in, the natives, who had followed +the vessel along the sandy beach that separates the two harbours, +were amusing themselves near us in striking fish with a single +barbed spear, in which sport they appeared to be tolerably +successful. As soon as we passed the bar three other natives made +their appearance on the east side, who, upon the boat going to +that shore to lay out the kedges, took their seats in it as +unceremoniously as a passenger would in a ferry-boat; and upon +its returning to the brig, came on board, and remained with us +all the afternoon, much amused with everything they saw, and +totally free from timidity or distrust. Each of our visitors was +covered with a mantle of kangaroo-skin, but these were laid aside +upon their being clothed with other garments, with the novelty of +which they appeared greatly diverted. The natives on the opposite +shore seeing that their companions were admitted, were loudly +vociferous in their request to be sent for also; but +unfortunately for them it was the lee shore, so that no boat went +near them; and as we did not wish to be impeded by having so many +on the deck at one time, their request was not acceded to and by +degrees they separated and retired in different directions.</p> +<p>As soon as the brig was secured two of our visitors went +ashore, evidently charged with some message from the other +native, but as he voluntarily remained on board nothing hostile +was suspected; we therefore landed and dug a hole three feet deep +among the grass about two yards above the highest tide-mark, for +water; but it was found to be so highly coloured and muddy as it +flowed in, that other holes were dug in the sand nearer the edge +of the tide-mark, where it was also produced, and proved to be of +a much better taste, as well as clearer, from being filtered +through the sand.</p> +<p>On examining the place of our former encampment, it was so +much altered from the rapid growth of vegetation that we could +scarcely recognise its situation. The stem of the casuarina on +which the Mermaid's name and the date of our visit had been +carved was almost destroyed by fire; and the inscription in +consequence so nearly obliterated that the figures 1818, and two +or three letters alone remained visible. There was not the least +trace of our garden, for the space which it formerly occupied was +covered by three or four feet of additional soil, formed of sand +and decayed vegetable matter and clothed with a thicket of fine +plants in full flower, that would be much prized in any other +place than where they were. The initials of the names of some of +our people were still very perfect upon the stem of a large +Banksia grandis which, from being covered with its superb +flowers, bore a magnificent and striking appearance.</p> +<p>After an absence of an hour our two friends returned, when it +appeared that they had been at their toilet, for their noses and +faces had evidently been fresh smeared over with red ochre, which +they pointed out to us as a great ornament; affording another +proof that vanity is inherent in human nature and not merely the +consequence of civilisation. They had however put off the +garments with which we had clothed them and resumed their +mantles.</p> +<p>Each brought a lighted fire-stick in his hand, intending, as +we supposed, to make a fire, and to pass the night near the +vessel, in order to watch our intentions and movements.</p> +<p>On returning on board we desired the native who had remained +behind to go ashore to his companions, but it was with great +reluctance that he was persuaded to leave us. Whilst on board, +our people had fed him plentifully with biscuit, yams, pudding, +tea, and grog, of which he ate and drank as if he was half +famished, and after being crammed with this strange mixture and +very patiently submitting his beard to the operation of shaving, +he was clothed with a shirt and a pair of trousers, and +christened Jack, by which name he was afterwards always called, +and to which he readily answered. As soon as he reached the +shore, his companions came to meet him to hear an account of what +had transpired during their absence, as well as to examine his +new habiliments which, as may be conceived, had effected a very +considerable alteration in his appearance, and at the same time +that the change created much admiration on the part of his +companions, it raised him very considerably in his own +estimation. It was however a substitution that did not improve +his appearance; in fact he cut but a sorry figure in our eyes, in +his chequered shirt and tarry trousers, when standing amongst his +companions, with their long beards and kangaroo-skin mantles +thrown carelessly over their shoulders.</p> +<p>Upon being accosted by his companions Jack was either sullen +with them or angry with us for sending him on shore, for without +deigning to reply to their questions he separated himself from +them, and after watching us in silence for some time, walked +quietly and slowly away, followed at a distance by his friends +who were lost in wonder at what could have happened to their +sulky companion. The grog that he had been drinking had probably +taken effect upon his head and, although the quantity was very +trifling, he might have been a little stupefied.</p> +<p>December 25.</p> +<p>At daylight the following morning the natives had again +collected on both sides, and upon the jolly-boat's landing the +people to examine the wells Jack, having quite recovered his good +humour, got into the boat and came on board. The natives on the +opposite side were vociferous to visit us, and were holding long +conversations with Jack, who explained everything to them in a +song, to which they would frequently exclaim in full chorus the +words "Cai, cai, cai, cai, caigh" which they always repeated when +anything was shown that excited their surprise. Finding we had no +intention of sending a boat for them they amused themselves in +fishing. Two of them were watching a small seal that, having been +left by the tide on the bank, was endeavouring to waddle towards +the deep water; at last one of the natives, fixing his spear in +its throwing-stick, advanced very cautiously and, when within ten +or twelve yards, lanced it, and pierced the animal through the +neck, when the other instantly ran up and stuck his spear into it +also, and then beating it about the head with a small hammer very +soon despatched it.</p> +<p>This event collected the whole tribe to the spot, who assisted +in landing their prize and washing the sand off the body; they +then carried the animal to their fire at the edge of the grass +and began to devour it even before it was dead. Curiosity induced +Mr. Cunningham and myself to view this barbarous feast and we +landed about ten minutes after it had commenced. The moment the +boat touched the sand the natives, springing up and throwing +their spears away into the bushes, ran down towards us; and +before we could land had all seated themselves in the boat ready +to go on board, but they were obliged to wait whilst we landed to +witness their savage feast. On going to the place we found an old +man seated over the remains of the carcass, two-thirds of which +had already disappeared; he was holding a long strip of the raw +flesh in his left hand, and tearing it off the body with a sort +of knife; a boy was also feasting with him and both were too +intent upon their breakfast to notice us or to be the least +disconcerted at our looking on. We however were very soon +satisfied and walked away perfectly disgusted with the sight of +so horrible a repast, and the intolerable stench occasioned by +the effluvia that arose from the dying animal, combined with that +of the bodies of the natives who had daubed themselves from head +to foot with a pigment made of a red ochreous earth mixed up with +seal-oil.</p> +<p>We then conveyed the natives, who had been waiting with great +patience in the boat for our return, to the vessel, and permitted +them to go on board. Whilst they remained with us Mr. Baskerville +took a man from each mess to the oyster-bank; here he was joined +by an Indian carrying some spears and a throwing-stick, but on +Mr. Baskerville's calling for a musket that was in the boat (to +the use of which they were not strangers) he laid aside his +spears, which probably were only carried for the purpose of +striking fish, and assisted our people in collecting the oysters. +As soon as they had procured a sufficient quantity they returned +on board when, as it was breakfast time, our visitors were sent +onshore, highly pleased with their reception and with the biscuit +and pudding which the people had given them to eat. They were +very attentive to the mixture of a pudding, and a few small +dumplings were made and given to them, which they put on the bars +of the fireplace but, being too impatient to wait until they were +baked, ate them in a doughy state with much relish.</p> +<p>Three new faces appeared on the east side, who were brought on +board after breakfast, and permitted to remain until dinner-time: +one of them, an old man, was very attentive to the sailmaker's +cutting out a boat's sail, and at his request was presented with +all the strips that were of no use. When it was completed a small +piece of canvas was missing, upon which the old man, being +suspected of having secreted it, was slightly examined, but +nothing was found upon him; after this, while the people were +looking about the deck, the old rogue assisted in the search and +appeared quite anxious to find it; he however very soon walked +away towards another part of the deck and interested himself in +other things. This conduct appeared so suspicious that I sent the +sailmaker to examine the old man more closely, when the lost +piece was found concealed under his left arm, which was covered +by the cloak he wore of kangaroo-skin. This circumstance afforded +me a good opportunity of showing them our displeasure at so +flagrant a breach of the confidence we had reposed in them; I +therefore went up to him and, assuming as ferocious a look as I +could, shook him violently by the shoulders. At first he laughed +but afterwards, when he found I was in earnest, became much +alarmed: upon which his two companions, who were both boys, +wanted to go onshore; this however was not permitted until I had +made peace with the old man, and put them all in good humour by +feeding them heartily upon biscuit. The two boys were soon +satisfied; but the old man appeared ashamed and conscious of his +guilt; and although he was frequently afterwards with us, yet he +always hung down his head and sneaked into the background.</p> +<p>During the day the people were employed about the rigging, and +in the evening before sunset the natives were again admitted on +board for half an hour. In the afternoon Mr. Montgomery went to +Green Island and shot a few parrakeets and waterbirds, some of +which he gave to the natives after explaining how they had been +killed, which of course produced great applause. December 26.</p> +<p>The next day was employed in wooding and watering, in which +the natives, particularly our friend Jack, assisted. We had this +day twenty-one natives about us and among them were five +strangers. They were not permitted to come on board until four +o'clock in the afternoon, excepting Jack, who was privileged to +come and go as he liked, which, since it did not appear to create +any jealousy among his companions, enabled us to detain him as a +hostage for Mr. Cunningham's safety, who was busily engaged in +adding to his collections from the country in the vicinity of the +vessel.</p> +<p>In the evening Jack climbed the rigging as high as the top +masthead, much to the amusement of his companions but to the +mortification of Bundell who had never taken courage to mount so +high.</p> +<p>The waterholes yielded about a ton of water a day; but a +stream was found in the sandy bay to the eastward of the +entrance, running over the beach, which we used when the holes +were emptied of their contents; the latter were however +preferred, since our people worked at them under an immediate +protection from the vessel's deck. Near the stream we found some +felled trees and the staves of a cask.*</p> +<blockquote>(*Footnote. At this place the San Antonio merchant +brig wooded and watered in 1820.)</blockquote> +<p>December 27 to 28.</p> +<p>Our watering continued to proceed without molestation from the +natives; the number of whom had increased to twenty-nine, besides +some whom we had before seen that were now absent. During the +afternoon of the 28th the wind freshened from south-west and blew +so strong as to cause a considerable swell where we were lying; +but towards sunset the breeze moderated and the natives were +again admitted on board; there were, however, only eleven, for +the rest, having worn out their patience, had walked away.</p> +<p>They were now quite tractable and never persisted in doing +anything against our wishes. The words "by and by" were so often +used by us in answer to their cau-wah, or "come here," that their +meaning was perfectly understood and always satisfied the +natives, since we made it a strict rule never to disappoint them +of anything that was promised, an attention to which is of the +utmost importance in communicating with savages. Every evening +that they visited us they received something, but as a biscuit +was the most valuable present that could be made, each native was +always presented with one upon his leaving the vessel; during the +day they were busily occupied in manufacturing spears, knives, +and hammers, for the evening's barter; and when they came in the +morning they generally brought a large collection, which their +wives had probably made in their absence.</p> +<p>December 29.</p> +<p>On the 29th we had completed our holds with wood and water and +prepared to leave the harbour. In the morning there was thirteen +feet water at the buoy which had been moored on the deepest part +of the bar, the depth of which, during the two preceding days, +had been frequently sounded.</p> +<p>In the evening we were visited by twenty-four natives among +whom was our friend Jack. When they found us preparing to go away +they expressed great sorrow at our departure, particularly Jack, +who was more than usually entertaining but kept, as he always +did, at a distance from his companions and treated them with the +greatest disdain. When the time came to send them on shore he +endeavoured to avoid accompanying them and as usual was the last +to go into the boat; instead however of following them, he went +into a boat on the opposite side of the brig that was preparing +to go for a load of water, evidently expecting to be allowed to +return in her.</p> +<p>This friendly Indian had become a great favourite with us all +and was allowed to visit us whenever he chose and to do as he +pleased; he always wore the shirt that had been given to him on +the first day and endeavoured to imitate everything that our +people were employed upon; particularly the carpenter and the +sailmaker at their work: he was the only native who did not +manufacture spears for barter, for he was evidently convinced of +the superiority of our weapons and laughed heartily whenever a +bad and carelessly-made spear was offered to us for sale: for the +natives, finding we took everything, were not very particular in +the form or manufacturer of the articles they brought to us. He +was certainly the most intelligent native of the whole tribe and +if we had remained longer would have afforded us much information +of this part of the country; for we were becoming more and more +intelligible to each other every day: he frequently accompanied +Mr. Cunningham in his walks and not only assisted him in carrying +his plants but occasionally added to the specimens he was +collecting.</p> +<p>December 30.</p> +<p>The next morning (30th) the anchors were weighed and the warps +laid out, but from various delays we did not reach a birth +sufficiently near the bar to make sail from, until the water had +fallen too much to allow our passing it: the brig was therefore +moored in the stream of the tide.</p> +<p>At eight o'clock the natives came down as usual and were much +disappointed in finding the brig moved from her former place. +After the vessel was secured the launch and jolly-boat were sent +to the watering-place in the outer bay, where the eastern party +were assembled with a bundle of spears, throwing-sticks, and +knives, for barter. Upon the return of the boats our friend Jack +came on board and appeared altogether so attached to us that some +thoughts were entertained of taking him on our voyage up the west +coast if he was inclined to go. As he did not want for +intelligence there was not much difficulty in making him +understand by signs that he might go with us, to which he +appeared to assent without the least hesitation, but that it +might be satisfactorily ascertained whether he really wished to +go it was intimated to him that he should tell his companions of +this new arrangement. Mr. Bedwell accordingly took him on shore, +and purchased all the spears the natives had brought down, that, +in case they should feel angry at his leaving them, they might +have no weapons to do any mischief with.</p> +<p>When Jack landed he instantly informed his companions of his +intended departure and pointed to the sea, to show whither he was +going, but his friends received the intelligence with the most +careless indifference, their attention being entirely engrossed +with the barter that was going on. After the spears were +purchased Mr. Bedwell got into the boat followed by Jack, who +seated himself in his place with apparent satisfaction.</p> +<p>While Mr. Bedwell was purchasing the spears and other weapons +Jack brought him a throwing-stick that he had previously +concealed behind a bush and sold it to him for a biscuit; but +after he had embarked and the boat was leaving the shore he threw +it among his companions, thereby affording us a most satisfactory +proof of the sincerity of his intentions.</p> +<p>About an hour after he had returned and I had determined upon +taking him, the breeze freshened and raised a short swell which, +causing a slight motion, affected our friend's head so much that +he came to me and, touching his tongue and pointing to the shore, +intimated his wish to speak to the natives. He was therefore +immediately landed and Mr. Baskerville, after purchasing some +spears and waiting a few minutes, prepared to return on board: +upon getting into the boat he looked at our volunteer but Jack, +having had a taste of sea-sickness, shook his head and hung back; +he was therefore left on shore. Upon the boat's leaving the beach +the natives dispersed for the night but Jack, as usual, was +perceived to separate himself from his companions and to walk +away without exchanging a word with them.</p> +<p>December 31.</p> +<p>The weather at daylight the next morning (31st) was too +unsettled and the breeze too strong from the westward to think of +moving from the anchorage. Jack and another native were down on +the rocks at an early hour, hallooing and waving to us, and at +eight o'clock some natives appeared on the opposite shore with +spears and knives to barter, but we had no communication with +them.</p> +<p>During our visit we have obtained from these people about one +hundred spears, thirty throwing-sticks, forty hammers, one +hundred and fifty knives, and a few hand-clubs, the value of each +being at from half to one-eighth of a biscuit. We saw no fizgig, +shield, nor boomerang; it is probable that they may have such +weapons but did not produce them from a dislike at parting with +them; but the knives, spears, and hammers which did not require +much labour to manufacture were always ready for barter, +particularly the first, but the greater part were, like Peter +Pindar's razors, only made for sale.</p> +<p>Altogether we saw about forty natives of whom ten were boys: +they were in most respects similar to their neighbours, having +the same long curly hair and slight figure; they did not appear +to be a navigating tribe, for we saw no canoes, nor did we +observe any trees in the woods with the bark stripped, of which +material they are usually made; and, from the timid manner they +approached the water, it is more than probable that they are not +much accustomed even to swimming. Captain Flinders is mistaken in +stating that the natives of this place do not use the +throwing-stick; but it is probable they did not produce those +instruments to him, for fear of being deprived of them, for it +required much persuasion on our part to prevail upon them to let +us have any; they were much more ingeniously formed than others +that we had previously seen, and different also, in having a +small sharp-edged shell, or piece of quartz, fixed in a gummy +knob at the handle, for the purpose of scraping the points of the +spears: the shaft is broad, smooth and flat. Some of these +throwing-sticks, or mearas, were three inches broad and two feet +six inches long. See Woodcut 3.</p> +<center> +<p><a name="king2-05"></a><img alt="" src="images/king2-05.jpg"></p> +<p><b>WOODCUT 3: WEAPONS AND IMPLEMENTS OF THE NATIVES OF KING +GEORGE THE THIRD'S SOUND: MEARA OR THROWING-STICK.</b></p> +</center> +<p>Â </p> +<p>The spears are very slender, and are made from a species of +leptospermum that grows abundantly in swampy places; they are +from nine to ten feet long and barbed with a piece of hard wood, +fastened on by a ligature of bark gummed over; we saw none that +were not barbed, or had not a hole at the end to receive the +hooked point of the meara. Woodcut 4 shows the method by which +this weapon is propelled.</p> +<center> +<p><a name="king2-06"></a><img alt="" src="images/king2-06.jpg"></p> +<p><b>WOODCUT 4: WEAPONS AND IMPLEMENTS OF THE NATIVES OF KING +GEORGE THE THIRD'S SOUND: METHOD OF PROPULSION OF SPEAR BY A +MEARA OR THROWING-STICK.</b></p> +</center> +<p>Â </p> +<p>The hammer, or kaoit, appears to be used only for the purpose +of breaking open shellfish, and killing seals and other animals +by striking them on the head; for it has no sharpened edge to be +used as a chopping or cutting instrument; the handle is from +twelve to fifteen inches long, having one end scraped to a sharp +point, and on each side at the other end two pieces of hard stone +fixed and cemented by a mass of gum, which, when dry, is almost +as hard as the stone itself; the hammer is about one pound +weight. See Woodcut 5.</p> +<center> +<p><a name="king2-07"></a><img alt="" src="images/king2-07.jpg"></p> +<p><b>WOODCUT 5: WEAPONS AND IMPLEMENTS OF THE NATIVES OF KING +GEORGE THE THIRD'S SOUND: KAOIT OR HAMMER.</b></p> +</center> +<p>Â </p> +<p>The knife, or taap, is perhaps the rudest instrument of the +sort that ever was made; the handle is about twelve inches long, +scraped to a point like the hammer, and has, at the other end, +three or four splinters of sharp-edged quartz stuck on in a row +with gum, thus forming a sort of ragged instrument. See Woodcut +6. It is thus used: after they have put within their teeth a +sufficient mouthful of seal's flesh, the remainder is held in +their left hand, and, with the taap in the other, they saw +through, and separate the flesh.* Every native carries one or +more of these knives in his belt besides the hammer which is also +an indispensable instrument with them.</p> +<center> +<p><a name="king2-08"></a><img alt="" src="images/king2-08.jpg"></p> +<p><b>WOODCUT 6: WEAPONS AND IMPLEMENTS OF THE NATIVES OF KING +GEORGE THE THIRD'S SOUND: TAAP OR KNIFE.<br> +CHART OF PORT COCKBURN AT MELVILLE ISLAND.<br> +Plan of Port Cockburn, between Bathurst and Melville Islands.<br> +From a survey made by Lieutenant J.S. ROE in October +1824.</b></p> +</center> +<p>Â </p> +<blockquote>(*Footnote. A very good idea may be obtained of the +manner in which these taaps are used, by referring to Captain +Lyon's drawing of the Esquimaux sledges at page 290 of Parry's +Second Voyage: the natives of King George's Sound however hold +the knife underhanded, and cut upwards.)</blockquote> +<p>We did not perceive that these people acknowledged any chief +or superior among them; the two parties that collected daily on +the opposite sides of the harbour evidently belonged to the same +tribe for they occasionally mixed with each other. Their +habitations were probably scattered about in different parts for +when the natives went away for the night they separated into +several groups, not more than three or four going together, and +these generally returned in company the next morning by the same +path which they had taken when they left us: they also arrived at +different times and some evidently came from a distance greater +than others, for they were later in arriving and always took +their leave at an earlier hour.</p> +<p>With the exception of one or two petty thefts besides the one +above-mentioned of which serious notice was taken, and an attempt +to steal a hat from one of the boys when he was by himself on the +Oyster Bank, our communication with these people was carried on +in the most friendly manner. Mr. Cunningham was, to their +knowledge, on shore every day attended only by his servant, but +none, excepting Jack, followed him after they had ascertained the +intention of his walk, and observed the care that he took to +avoid going near their habitations, for which they evinced a +great dislike; one of their encampments was about a mile and a +half off but, curious as we naturally were to witness their mode +of living and to see the females and children of their tribe, we +never succeeded in persuading them to allow us to gratify our +curiosity. On one occasion it was necessary to lay a kedge anchor +out in the direction of their dwelling-place, and upon the boat's +crew landing and carrying it along the beach, the natives +followed and intimated by signs that we should not go that way; +as soon however as the anchor was fixed and they understood our +intention, they assisted the people in carrying the hawser to +make fast to it.</p> +<p>They were well-acquainted with the effects of a musket, +although not the least alarmed at having one fired off near them. +Everything they saw excited their admiration, particularly the +carpenter's tools and our clothes; but what appeared to surprise +them above all other things was the effect produced upon the +flesh by a burning-glass, and of its causing the explosion of a +train of gunpowder. They perfectly understood that it was from +the sun that the fire was produced, for on one occasion when Jack +requested me to show it to two or three strangers whom he had +brought to visit us I explained to him that it could not be done +while the sun was clouded; he then waited patiently for five +minutes until the sunshine reappeared, when he instantly reminded +me of the removal of the obstacle. He was a good deal surprised +at my collecting the rays of the sun upon my own hand, supposing +that I was callous to the pain, from which he had himself before +shrunk; but as I held the glass within the focus distance, no +painful sensation was produced; after which he presented me his +own arm, and allowed me to burn it as long as I chose to hold the +glass, without flinching in the least, which, with greater +reason, equally astonished us in our turn.</p> +<p>They were all furnished, as has been before mentioned, with a +cloak of kangaroo-skin, which is always taken off and spread +under them when they lie down. Their hair was dressed in +different ways; sometimes it was clotted with red pigment and +seal oil, clubbed up behind, and bound round with a fillet of +opossum-fur, spun into a long string, in which parrot-feathers, +escalop shells, and other ornaments being fixed in different +fanciful ways, gave the wearer a warlike appearance.</p> +<p>Their faces and sometimes their whole bodies were daubed over +with a mixture of seal oil and red pigment that caused a most +disgusting effluvia; but the only colouring matter that our +friend Jack used, after his acquaintance with us, was the +carpenter's chalk, which he thought particularly ornamental.</p> +<p>Bracelets of dog-tails or kangaroo-skin were commonly worn and +one had several escalop shells hanging about him, the noise of +which, as they jingled together, he probably thought musical.</p> +<p>The noodle-bul or belt in which they carry their hammer and +knife is manufactured from the fur of the opossum spun into a +small yarn like worsted; it is tightly bound at least three or +four hundred times round the stomach; very few however possessed +this ornament; and it is not improbable that the natives who had +their hair clubbed, those that wore belts, and the one who was +ornamented with shells, held some particular offices in the +tribe, which it would be difficult for strangers to discover.</p> +<p>During our communication with these people the following +vocabulary of their language was obtained, of which some of the +words are compared with those recorded by Captain Flinders: these +last are inserted in the third column.</p> + +<p><a name="king2-table1a"></a><img alt="" src="images/king2-table1a.jpg"></p> +<p><a name="king2-table1b"></a><img alt="" src="images/king2-table1b.jpg"></p> +<p><a name="king2-table1c"></a><img alt="" src="images/king2-table1c.jpg"></p> +<p><a name="king2-table1d"></a><img alt="" src="images/king2-table1d.jpg"></p> + +<blockquote>(*Footnote. The above names were obtained at a +subsequent visit on our return to England the following +year.)</blockquote> +<p>The winds during our stay performed two or three revolutions +of the compass but they partook chiefly of the character of sea +and land-breezes: during the night and early part of the morning +the wind was usually light from the northward and at ten o'clock, +gradually dying away, was succeeded by a wind from the sea, +generally from South-West or South-East; this sea-breeze +occasionally blew fresh until four o'clock in the evening when it +would gradually diminish with the setting sun to a light air.</p> +<p>The barometrical column ranged between 29.75 and 30.22 inches; +a fall of the mercury preceded a westerly wind, and a rise +predicted it from the South-East: when it stood at thirty inches +we had sea-breezes from south with fine weather. The easterly +winds were dry; westerly ones the reverse. The moisture of the +atmosphere, for want of a better hygrometer, was ascertained with +tolerable precision by the state of a small piece of sea-weed, +the weight of which varied according to the dryness or moisture +of the atmosphere between one and three scruples. I found it on +all occasions extremely sensible, and very often to predict a +change of wind much sooner than the barometer.</p> +<p>Fahrenheit's thermometer ranged between 64 and 74 degrees, but +the usual extremes were between 66 and 70 degrees.</p> +<p>1822. January 1.</p> +<p>During the day of the 1st of January the depth of the bar was +frequently sounded but as there was not more than ten feet and a +half water upon it we were necessarily detained at the +anchorage.</p> +<p>January 2.</p> +<p>On the following morning also at four o'clock the depth was +the same; but at ten o'clock the water rose suddenly eighteen +inches, upon which the anchors were lifted and the brig warped +over the bar to an anchorage in three and a half fathoms off the +outer watering-place, to await a favourable opportunity of going +over to Seal Island; near which it was intended to anchor in +order to refit the rigging and otherwise prepare the vessel for +our voyage up the west coast.</p> +<p>In the afternoon we procured a load of water and permitted the +natives, thirteen of whom were assembled, to pay us another +visit. On their coming on board it was noticed that many of them +belonged to the tribe that lived on the opposite shore, but how +they had crossed over was not satisfactorily ascertained. Their +wonder on this their last visit was much raised by our firing off +a nine-pounder loaded with shot, the splash of which in the water +caused the greatest astonishment, and one of them was extremely +vehement and noisy in explaining it to his companions. Upon +repeating this exhibition they paid particular attention to the +operation of loading the gun, and expressed the greatest surprise +at the weight of the ball, upon which, after they had all +severally examined it, they held a long and wordy argument as to +what it possibly could be. At the splash of the ball, for which +they were all looking out, they expressed their delight by +shouting in full chorus the words Cai, cai, cai, cai, caigh. +After this they were sent on shore.</p> +<p>January 3.</p> +<p>At daybreak the next morning an opportunity offered to cross +the sound, and by eight o'clock the brig was anchored under Seal +Island; upon which we commenced the repair of the rigging, and in +the course of the day shifted the main topmast. We had left the +anchorage on the other side of the sound too early for our +friends the natives, who had promised last evening to bring us a +hawk's nest that was built upon a rock near the watering-place; +at ten o'clock a very large fire was perceived close to the nest; +it was no doubt kindled by them, and meant to show that they were +not inattentive to their promise.</p> +<p>January 4.</p> +<p>The following day some natives were seen about a mile off upon +the beach but did not come near the vessel. Mr. Cunningham +botanised upon the summit of Bald Head. Of this excursion he gave +me the following account: "Upon reaching the summit of the ridge, +and clearing a rocky gully which intersected our track, we +instantly entered an elevated valley of pure white sand, bounded +on either side by ridges forty feet high, that were in themselves +totally bare, excepting on the tops, where a thin clothing of +shrubs was remarked; the whole surface reflected a heat scarcely +supportable, and the air was so stagnant as scarcely to be +respired, although we were at a considerable elevation, and in +the vicinity of a constant current of pure atmospheric air on the +ridge. After traversing the whole length of this sandy vale, +which is one-third of a mile in extent, in our route towards Bald +Head, with scarcely a plant to attract our attention, we +perceived at its extremity some remarkably fine specimens of +Candollea cuneiformis, Labil., which had, in spite of the poverty +and looseness of the drifting sand, risen to large spreading +trees, sixteen feet high, of robust growth and habit; they were +at this time covered with flowers and ripe fruit; but so painful +was it to the eyes and senses to remain for a moment stationary +in this heated valley, that whilst I gathered a quantity of the +seeds of this truly rich plant, my servant was obliged to hurry +away to a cooler air on the ridge, which we had again nearly +reached; and but for this fine plant, and the no less conspicuous +blue-flowered Scaevola nitida, Br. The whole scene would have +deeply impressed us with all the horrors that such extremes of +aridity are naturally calculated to excite.</p> +<p>"Upon again reaching the ridge, whose moderated temperature +required our care to avoid suffering from the sudden transition, +we came to the granite, on whose bare surface I found a prostrate +specimen of baeckea, remarkable for the regularity of its +decussate leaves, which I have designated in my list as Baeckea +saxicola. Continuing to the extremity of the ridge, I was much +surprised to find we had already attained the highest point of +the range, and to observe another expanse, or extensive cavity, +of bare white sand below us, to the South-East, the termination +of which we afterwards found to be the Bald Head, of Captain +Vancouver. This part is of remarkable appearance from seaward, +having on either side of its bare sandy summit a contrasting +brushy vegetation: from the sea however a very small part only of +its extensive surface of sand can be perceived, the greater part +being only observable from the commanding hillocks we had with +much exertion arrived at. A calcareous rock (affording evidently +a very considerable portion of pure lime) was seen in a +decomposing state piercing the sandy surface of all parts of the +ridge about Bald Head which, however, is itself a pure granite; +the dense low brushy wood in its vicinity is chiefly composed of +the delicate baeckea."*</p> +<blockquote>(*Footnote. Cunningham manuscripts.)</blockquote> +<p>In the evening we visited Seal Island, and killed five seals +for the sake of their skins, which were serviceable for the +rigging; the boat's crew also found some penguins (Aptenodytes +minor) and a nest of iguanas. The bottle deposited here at our +last visit in 1818 was found suspended where it had been left and +brought on board, when another memorandum was enclosed in it, +containing a notification of our present visit, of the friendly +and communicative disposition of the natives, and a copy of the +vocabulary of their language.</p> +<p>January 5.</p> +<p>On the 5th in the afternoon on our return to the vessel, after +visiting the shore and landing upon the flat rock, which is +merely a bare mass of granite, of about thirty yards in diameter, +some natives were heard calling to us, and upon our pulling to +the part whence the sound came, we found two men and a boy. After +some time they were discovered to be three of our Oyster-Harbour +friends, and therefore we made no hesitation of communicating +with them, and of taking them on board, where they were regaled +upon the flesh of the seals we had killed at the island.</p> +<p>Notwithstanding the friendly disposition of the inhabitants of +this sound, I felt it necessary to act very cautiously in our +communication with them, in order to avoid any misunderstanding. +And that this might not even be accidentally done, I requested +Mr. Cunningham to confine his walks to the vicinity of the +vessel, and particularly to avoid any route that would take him +towards their encampment. He was therefore prevented from +visiting many parts near which he had promised himself much +amusement and information in botanizing, particularly the +neighbourhood of Bayonet Head, and the distant parts of Oyster +Harbour. At our former visit to this place he had searched in +vain for that curious little plant Cephalotus follicularis, Br.,* +but on this occasion he was more fortunate, for he found it in +the greatest profusion in the vicinity of the stream that empties +itself over the beach of the outer bay where we watered. Of this +he says: "The plants of cephalotus were all in a very weak state, +and none in any stage of fructification: the ascidia, or +pitchers, which are inserted on strong foot-stalks, and +intermixed about the root with the leaves, all contained a +quantity of discoloured water, and, in some, the drowned bodies +of ants and other small insects. Whether this fluid can be +considered a secretion of the plant, as appears really to be the +fact with reference to the nepenthes, or pitcher-plant of +India,** deposited by it through its vessels into the pitchers; +or even a secretion of the ascidia themselves; or whether it is +not simply rainwater lodged in these reservoirs, as a provision +from which the plant might derive support in seasons of +protracted drought, when those marshy lands (in which this +vegetable is alone to be found) are partially dried of the +moisture that is indispensable to its existence, may perhaps be +presumed by the following observations. The opercula, shaped like +some species of oyster, or escalop-shells, I found in some +pitchers to be very closely shut upon their orifices, although +their cavities, upon examination, contained but very little +water, and the state of the weather was exceedingly cloudy, and +at intervals showery; if, therefore, the appendages are really +cisterns, to receive an elemental fluid for the nourishment of +the plant in times of drought, it is natural to suppose that this +circumstance would operate upon the ramified vessels of the lids, +so as to draw them up, and allow the rain to replenish the +pitchers. Mr. Brown also, who had an opportunity in 1801 of +examining plants fully grown, supposes it probable that the +vertical or horizontal positions in which the opercula were +remarked, are determined by the state of the atmosphere, at the +same time that he thinks it possible that the fluid may be a +secretion of the plant. The several dead insects that were +observed within the vases of cephalotus were very possibly +deposited there by an insect of prey, since I detected a +slender-bodied fly (ichneumon) within a closed pitcher, having +evidently forced its passage under the lid to the interior, where +an abundant store of putrescent insects were collected. Whilst, +therefore, these pitchers are answering the double purpose, of +being a reservoir to retain a fluid, however produced, for the +nourishment of the plant in the exigency of a dry season, as also +a repository of food for rapacious insects, as in sarracenia, or +the American pitcher-plant; it is also probable that the air, +disengaged by these drowned ants, may be important and beneficial +to the life of the Australian plant, as Sir James E. Smith has +suggested, in respect to the last-mentioned genus, wild in the +swamp of Georgia and Carolina.</p> +<blockquote>(*Footnote. Flinders volume 1 page 64 and Brown's +General Remarks in Flinders volume 2 page 601 et +seq.)</blockquote> +<blockquote>(**Footnote. Smith's Introduction to Botany page +150.)</blockquote> +<p>"I spent much time in a fruitless search for flowering +specimens of cephalotus; all the plants were very small and weak, +and showed no disposition to produce flowers at the season, and +none had more than three or four ascidia."*</p> +<blockquote>(*Footnote. Cunningham manuscripts.)</blockquote> +<p>The only edible plants that Mr. Cunningham found were a +creeping parsley (Apium prostratum, Labil.) and a species of +orach (Atriplex halimus, Brown) the latter was used by us every +day, boiled with salt provisions, and proved a tolerable +substitute for spinach or greens. During our visit we caught but +very few fish, and only a few oysters were obtained, on account +of the banks being seldom uncovered, and the presence of the +natives which prevented my trusting the people out of my sight +for fear of a quarrel. Shellfish of other sorts were obtained at +Mistaken Island in abundance, of which the most common were a +patella and an haliotis; the inhabitant of the former made a +coarse, although a savoury dish. There were also varieties of the +following genera: namely, lepas, chiton, cardium, pinna, nerita, +two or three species of ostrea, a small mytilus, and a small +buccinum of great beauty; that covered the rocks and at low water +might be collected in abundance.</p> +<p><a name="chapter04"></a></p> +<h3>CHAPTER 4.</h3> +<blockquote>Leave King George the Third's Sound, and commence the +survey of the West Coast at Rottnest Island.<br> +Another remarkable effect of mirage.<br> +Anchor under, and land upon Rottnest Island.<br> +Break an anchor.<br> +Examine the coast to the northward.<br> +Cape Leschenault.<br> +Lancelin Island.<br> +Jurien Bay.<br> +Houtman's Abrolhos.<br> +Moresby's Flat-topped Range.<br> +Red Point.<br> +Anchor in Dirk Hartog's Road, at the entrance of Shark's Bay.<br> +Occurrences there.<br> +Examination of the coast to the North-west Cape.<br> +Barrow Island.<br> +Heavy gale off the Montebello Isles.<br> +Rowley's Shoals.<br> +Cape Leveque.<br> +Dangerous situation of the brig among the islands of Buccaneer's +Archipelago.<br> +Examination and description of Cygnet Bay.<br> +Lose an anchor, and leave the coast.<br> +Adele Island.<br> +Return to Port Jackson.</blockquote> +<p>1822. January 6.</p> +<p>We sailed from King George's Sound on the 6th.</p> +<p>January 8.</p> +<p>But from south-westerly winds, were no further advanced by the +8th than the meridian of Cape Chatham. After which, entering a +current setting at one mile an hour to the westward, the brig +made considerable progress.</p> +<p>January 10.</p> +<p>At daylight, 10th, Cape Leeuwin came in sight from the +masthead, and at eight o'clock was seen from the deck at the +distance of ten leagues, bearing North 42 degrees East by +compass.</p> +<p>At this, the south-westernmost extremity of New Holland, +Captain Flinders commenced his examination of the south coast, +but saw no part to the northward. The French expedition under +Captain Baudin were upon this part at two different periods of +their voyage, and it appears from an examination of their tracks +that the coast between Capes Leeuwin and Peron, the latter of +which is about five leagues to the southward of the entrance of +Swan River, has been sufficiently examined by them. They landed +in several parts of Geographe Bay which affords a shelter from +southerly winds but is so exposed to those between North and +West-North-West that the French ships ran great danger of being +shipwrecked during a gale from that quarter.</p> +<p>The coast is sandy, and from M. Peron's description, barren +and unprofitable. With the exception of the Recif du Naturaliste +which lies about five leagues to the north of the Cape of that +name there seems to be no danger in the vicinity of the bay. The +small inlet of Port Leschenault is only the embouchure of a +salt-marsh; it is scarcely attainable even by boats; for there +appears to be only three feet water on the bar, and over and +within it not more than fifteen feet. The French found no fresh +water in any part of Geographe Bay. From Port Leschenault to Cape +Peron the coast is low and sandy but inland it is of a moderate +height and appears to be furnished with a slight vegetation. The +French ships sailed along this coast at the distance of four or +five miles from the beach, and the report made by them is +sufficiently in detail for all the purposes of navigation.</p> +<p>Upon these considerations it was not deemed necessary that we +should examine this part again, and therefore sailed at a +distance from the land to ensure a quicker passage to Cape Peron, +in order to explore the bay behind the Isles of Louis Napoleon. +Swan River and Rottnest Island had been already carefully +examined by the French; but from the latter island to the +North-west Cape, with the exception of Shark's Bay, they saw very +little of the coast, and have given its outline principally from +Van Keulen.*</p> +<blockquote>(*Footnote. Freycinet page 441.)</blockquote> +<p>At noon on the 10th our latitude was 34 degrees 16 minutes 14 +seconds, and a large bare, sandy patch upon the land, the Tache +Blanche remarquable of Captain Baudin, bore North 77 degrees East +(magnetic). At six o'clock in the evening we passed Cape +Naturaliste, having experienced a strong current setting North 11 +degrees West, at nearly two miles per hour; hence we steered to +the northward, but it was dark when we passed near the position +assigned to the Recif Naturaliste: after steering on for three +hours longer we edged in for the land and at ten o'clock hauled +to the wind for the night.</p> +<p>January 11.</p> +<p>The next day at noon we were in latitude 32 degrees 36 minutes +2 seconds, having the land about Cape Peron in sight from the +masthead, bearing East by South 1/2 South; but during the day the +wind was so light that we had not approached it within four +leagues by sunset.</p> +<p>At this time the coast was visible as far as Cape Bouvard +between which and Cape Peron it is low and sandy, but the hills +appeared to be tolerably well wooded, and of a moderate height. +Buache Island was visible as well as the small rocky islet +between it and Cape Peron. The former is low and sandy, and its +outline of hummocky shape; and to the eastward was some distant +land trending towards the assigned entrance of Swan River. To the +northward of Buache Island a small lump was seen on the horizon, +which perhaps might have been Berthollet Island, but it was very +indistinct. The sun set in a dense bank and the moment it +disappeared a very copious dew began to fall.</p> +<p>January 12.</p> +<p>The next morning at daylight the land to the southward of Cape +Peron was ten miles off, but at half-past nine o'clock we were +between Capes Peron and Bouvard, and about five miles from the +shore, which from the former extended in a North-East by North +direction, still low and sandy.</p> +<p>At noon the latitude was observed to be 32 degrees 30 minutes +42 seconds, but by the land it was only 32 degrees 23 minutes 30 +seconds, a difference of 7 minutes 12 seconds. This error was +occasioned by the haze which concealed the true horizon, and +caused an appearance of land all round us, on which rocks, sandy +beaches, and trees were so plainly formed that the officer of the +watch actually reported two islands on the western horizon. This +was the most remarkable instance of mirage that we ever +witnessed; the haze had only commenced a few minutes before noon, +whilst the observation for the latitude was in the act of being +taken; and immediately after I was employed upon the chart for +half an hour, puzzling myself in attempting to reconcile the +observed latitude with the bearings of the land. This curious +phenomenon was also witnessed by the French in Geographe Bay. +During the time this magical appearance continued, we had very +light airs from the southward: the barometrical column fell to +29.76 inches, but the hygrometer indicated an extraordinary +dryness of the air. At sunset the haze cleared away, when +Rottnest Island was seen, bearing between North 10 degrees and 32 +degrees East (magnetic); a breeze then freshened from +West-South-West but gradually veered round to the southward; and +at nine o'clock was very light from South-East.</p> +<p>January 13.</p> +<p>During the night we made short tacks. At four o'clock in the +morning (13th) the latitude by the moon's meridional altitude was +32 degrees 16 minutes 17 seconds, and soon afterwards Rottnest +was in sight in the North-North-East. At six o'clock the sky was +clouded, and the weather threatened to be bad; the mercury fell +to 29.69 inches, upon which all sail was made off the land, as +appearances indicated a westerly gale: but after an interval of +two hours, during which we had a fresh breeze from North-West by +West, the weather cleared up and we steered towards Rottnest +Island.</p> +<p>January 14.</p> +<p>The next morning the brig was anchored off the north-east end +of the island in thirteen fathoms gravelly sand; and in the +afternoon I went on shore in a bay on the east or leeward side, +where we found the water smooth and the landing more practicable +than upon the north side where a tremendous surf was rolling in +upon the beach. We disturbed a great many seals but only killed +three; and were much disappointed in finding that these animals +were not of the fur species, as in M. de Freycinet's account of +the island they are said to be; they were evidently the same +description as those noticed at King George's Sound. The traces +of a small kangaroo were everywhere abundant but the animals were +not seen. We walked to the easternmost of the lakes which the +French named Etangs Duvaildaily and which M. de Freycinet remarks +as being surrounded by an extensive beach, composed entirely of +bivalve shells, a species of cardium: the quantity was indeed +extraordinary. The banks were frequented by gulls and sandpipers, +of which many were shot. The water was found to be perfectly salt +and from the circumstance of its rising and falling with the tide +it must have some communication with the sea. The rocks of the +island are principally calcareous and in a very advanced state of +decomposition. The beaches were covered with dead shells of the +genera buccinum, bulla, murex, trochus, and haliotis; but we +found none with the living animal in them. Of the feathered tribe +a hawk and a pigeon were the only land-birds seen; but boobies, +terns, and sandpipers were very numerous about the shores. Mr. +Cunningham was fully employed during the short time that we were +on shore, and excepting the pleasing interest created in our +minds by landing on an island which has been so seldom before +seen, and which from Vlaming's account bears a prominent place in +the history of this part of the coast, he was the only one of the +party that derived any advantage from our visit. Of the +productions of this island he makes the following brief remarks: +"It is surprising that an island, situated at so short a distance +from the south-west coast, should bear so small a feature of the +characteristic vegetation of King George's Sound as not to +furnish a plant of its several genera of Proteaceae or Mimoseae, +and but a solitary plant of Leguminosae. It would therefore seem +that these families are confined to the shores of the main, +particularly about King George's Sound, where we have just left +them in the greatest luxuriance and profusion. Among the +botanical productions of this island there is no plant of so +striking a feature as the callitris, a tree of about twenty-five +feet high, with a short stem of three feet in diameter; it much +resembles the Pinus cedrus, or cedar of Lebanon, in its robust +horizontal growth; it is found abundantly over the island, and +within a few yards of the sea-beach. The island is formed by a +succession of small hills and intervening valleys; and although +the soil is very poor, being principally a mixture of quartzose +sand and a large proportion of marine exuviae, yet this tree +grows to a considerable size, but covering the surface of the +island, gives it a monotonous appearance which is however +occasionally relieved by a spreading undescribed species of +melaleuca (allied to Melaleuca armillaris, Smith) and the more +elegant pittosporum, an arborescent species, also undescribed. In +fact, these three trees constitute the timber of the island. The +ground is in some parts profusely clothed with Spinifex hirsutus, +Labil., in which I detected a new species of xerotes, a round +bushy plant growing in large bodies.</p> +<p>"No fresh water has ever been discovered upon this island: +indeed the loose filtering nature of the soil is not tenacious +enough to retain that element at the surface. The woods are +abundantly stocked with a small species of kangaroo of which we +saw only the traces; nor did we see the animal, on account of +whose numbers and resemblance to a rat the island received its +name from Vlaming in 1619. M. Peron says that it forms a new +genus, and of a very remarkable character.* Rottnest Island does +not appear ever to have been inhabited or even visited by the +natives from the main; probably on account of the stormy nature +of the weather, and the prevalence of westerly winds, which would +be quite sufficient to deter them from venturing to sea in such +fragile vessels as they possess."**</p> +<blockquote>(*Footnote. Peron volume 1 page 189.)</blockquote> +<blockquote>(**Footnote. Cunningham manuscripts.)</blockquote> +<p>January 15.</p> +<p>On our return to the brig, we passed over a clear sandy bottom +that would have afforded better anchorage than where we had +brought up; for the vessel was not only exposed to a considerable +swell but the ground was so foul that in weighing the anchor the +following morning one of the flukes hooked a rock and broke off, +besides which the cable was much rubbed.</p> +<p>As Swan River had been very minutely examined in Baudin's +voyage by MM. Heirisson and Baily, the former an enseigne de +vaisseau, the latter a mineralogist, an account of which is fully +detailed in De Freycinet's and Peron's respective accounts of +that voyage,* without their finding anything of sufficient +importance to induce me to risk leaving the brig at anchor off +Rottnest Island for so long a time as it would necessarily take +to add to the knowledge of it that we already possess, I did not +think it advisable to delay for such a purpose, and therefore as +soon as we were underweigh steered for the mainland and continued +to run northerly along the shore at the distance of six miles +from it. At noon our latitude was 31 degrees 37 minutes 32 +seconds. The coast is formed by sandy hillocks, or dunes, of from +one hundred to one hundred and fifty feet high, here and there +sprinkled with shrubs, but in many parts quite bare: behind this +frontier a second range of hills was occasionally seen on which +the trees appeared to be of moderate size: the shore is rocky for +two miles off and in many parts the sea broke. At half-past three +o'clock we were abreast of a low, sandy projection, supposed to +be Captain Baudin's Cape Leschenault. The appearance of the coast +to the northward on this cape differed from what we passed in the +morning, in that the coast hillocks are more bare of vegetation; +there appeared to be several ridges behind the coast dunes, but +they were all equally unproductive of vegetation. Lancelin Island +was not distinctly made out but the two small rocky lumps on the +bare sandhills that M. De Freycinet mentions, were seen and +thought to be very remarkable. At seven o'clock, having reached +in my plan the latitude 31 degrees 0 minutes 30 seconds, and +longitude 115 degrees 0 minutes 0 seconds, we hauled off shore +for the night.</p> +<p>January 16.</p> +<p>And at six o'clock a.m. stood towards the land again. At +half-past ten o'clock we were so near to it as to see the beach: +at noon the latitude was observed to be 30 degrees 52 minutes 13 +seconds, its longitude being 114 degrees 56 minutes 45 seconds, +at which time we were on the parallel of the two rocky lumps seen +the last evening. Hence we steered north on a parallel direction +with the coast and ran forty-five miles, passing the different +projections of the beach at the distance of four or five miles, +and sounding in between nineteen and twenty-five fathoms. At four +o'clock we were abreast of a bare sandy point which appeared to +be the north head of Jurien Bay, in which two rocky islets were +seen, fronted by reefs, on which the sea in many parts was +breaking violently. To the southward of the point the coast hills +are rather high and principally formed of very white sand, +bearing a strong resemblance, from the absence of vegetables, to +hills covered with snow. Here and there however a few shrubs +partially concealed the sand, and gave a variety to the scene +which was dismally triste. The country to the northward bears a +different character; the shore is very low and sandy and +continues so for some distance in the interior towards the base +of a range of tolerably-elevated hills, on which the French have +placed three remarkable pitons, but these, perhaps from our being +too close in shore, we did not discover.</p> +<blockquote>(*Footnote. See De Freycinet page 175 et seq and +Peron volume 1 page 178 et seq.)</blockquote> +<p>This range extends in a North by West and South by East +direction, and appears to be rocky. In the middle ground some +trees were noticed and vegetation appeared to be more abundant +than in the space between the bare sandy point and Cape +Leschenault. In Jurien Bay towards its south part near the shore +is a small hillock, on which some trees of a moderate size were +seen; they are thus noticed because the existence of trees +hereabout is so rare as to be deserving of record. No native +fires were seen between this part and Rottnest Island, nor was +there any other indication of the coast being inhabited; it is +however likely to be as populous as any other part, for the hills +in the interior, which we occasionally got a glimpse of, seemed +to be wooded, and would therefore furnish subsistence to natives +from hunting, even if the seashore failed in supplying them with +fish. Between the bare sandy point and Island Point there is a +deep bay, the shores of which are fronted by a reef partly dry, +extending from the shore two miles.</p> +<p>At seven o'clock we were about a mile and a half from a reef +that nearly crossed our course; and as it was time to haul off +for the night we shortened sail and brought to the wind, then +blowing a strong squally breeze from south; but notwithstanding +this succession of bad weather, the mercury in the barometer had +ranged steadily between 29.90 and 29.92 inches.</p> +<p>January 17.</p> +<p>At daybreak we steered in for the land but ran twenty-two +miles before it was seen. At nine o'clock it bore between +North-East and South-East, and at a quarter after nine heavy +breakers were seen in the South-East at the distance of five +miles. The weather was now fine and the wind South-South-East, +but still blew strong; the horizon was so enveloped by haze that +the land, although not more than seven miles from our track, was +very indistinctly seen: it seemed to be formed of sandhills, from +one hundred to one hundred and fifty feet high, slightly studded +with a scrubby vegetation; in the interior we perceived a range +of hills of tabular form which are probably very high. At ten +o'clock we passed another patch of breakers at the distance of +about a mile and a half; but these appeared to have no connexion +with those seen at nine o'clock. Our soundings were between +fifteen and seventeen fathoms, and our distance from the beach +from six to seven miles. At noon the wind veered back to +South-South-West and blew hard: we were at this time in 29 +degrees 5 minutes 1 second South and by chronometers in 114 +degrees 40 minutes 30 seconds East; by which we found that a +current had set us during the last twenty-four hours to the +North-North-West at one mile per hour. At half-past twelve +o'clock more breakers were seen bearing North-West 1/2 North, +when we hauled off West-North-West in order to ascertain the +distance between the land and the Abrolhos bank which, in Van +Keulen's chart, is placed abreast of this part of the coast.</p> +<p>At half-past four o'clock the masthead man was cautioned to +look out for breakers and in less than half an hour afterwards he +reported some bearing North-West by North. On going to the +masthead I saw them distinctly for they were not more than four +miles off, and on looking round the horizon towards the westward, +distinctly saw the island of Frederick Houtman's Abrolhos, which +for some time the masthead man persisted was only the shadow of +the clouds; but a small hummock being soon afterwards descried +upon the summit of the largest, confirmed my conjectures. The +group appeared to consist of three islands, all low and of small +size. Beyond and around them the sea was smooth and to the +southward another patch of breakers was observed. Preparations +were now made to tack off, but I had scarcely reached the deck +when the lookout man reported rocks under our lee bow, upon which +the helm was immediately put up; and when the vessel's head was +round upon the opposite tack the following bearings were +taken:</p> +<p>Island of the Abrolhos: eight miles off, between West and +South 75 degrees West.</p> +<p>Breakers: four miles off, North-North-West North.</p> +<p>Another patch: seven miles off, South-West.</p> +<p>And the small rock patch, half a mile off, West.</p> +<p>This last I did not see myself but two men perceived it +distinctly from the masthead, and it is from their accounts that +I am induced to give it a place upon the chart. The position of +the vessel when we saw the breakers was in latitude 28 degrees 53 +minutes and in longitude 114 degrees 2 minutes, and from the +short interval between our obtaining sights for the chronometer +and the meridional observation at noon, the position may be +considered to be tolerably correct. After taking the bearings and +before sail was made we sounded in twenty-five fathoms, fine +shelly sand; but as we stood to the eastward the water gradually +deepened to twenty-nine and thirty fathoms.</p> +<p>January 18.</p> +<p>The next morning at daylight the land was out of sight but at +five o'clock was distinguished, forming a range of flat-topped +land, probably about one thousand feet high. At the northern end +of the range were four or five hills standing apart from each +other, of which, in the view we then had of them, the +northernmost was flat-topped, and the others peaked; at the south +end of the range were three other distinct hills, the centre +being peaked and the other two flat-topped. Near the centre of +the main range was another summit that was remarkable for its +form.</p> +<p>This range was seen by Captain Hamelin of the Naturaliste, and +is thus noticed by M. De Freycinet in his account of the voyage. +"Entre les paralleles de 29 degres et 28 degres 20 minutes, la +terre est tres haute; on y remarque deux montagnes bien +reconnoisables par leur forme qui approche de celle de la Grange, +sur la cote de Saint-Domingue, ou de la Montagne de la Table au +Cap de Bonne-Esperance; une autre ressemble un peu au Pouce, de +l'Ile-de-France. La terre est aride, bordee de falaises +rougeatres; on y voit peu de sable comparativement aux terres +plus au sud."*</p> +<blockquote>(*Footnote. De Freycinet page 181.)</blockquote> +<p>We sought in vain for the resemblance to the Pouce, but as all +the hills were flat-topped of course they were similar to the +Table Land of the Cape of Good Hope, but probably inferior to it +in point of height.</p> +<p>This range I called after Captain Moresby, R.N. C.B., in +grateful recognition of the prompt assistance rendered by him to +the wants and repairs of our vessel, during her late visit to +Mauritius. The summit in the centre was called Mount Fairfax; the +group of hills at the north end were named Menai Hills, and the +three at the south end of the range were distinguished by the +name of Wizard Hills; Mount Fairfax is in latitude 28 degrees 45 +minutes 20 seconds, longitude 114 degrees 38 minutes 45 seconds. +The shore in front of these hills is sandy and there was an +appearance of two openings in the beach that were probably the +outlets of mountain-streams. The country also appeared much +better wooded than in other parts, and as large smokes were seen +in the valleys the place most likely at the time of our passing +frequented by natives.</p> +<p>Hence the coast trends to the North-West by North towards a +patch of bare sand, which is remarkable because the coast is not +so sandy as it is more to the south. At ten o'clock a very thick +haze spread over the land and so enveloped it that nothing could +be distinguished. At noon, the brig being in 28 degrees 25 +minutes 42 seconds South, and 114 degrees 7 minutes 0 seconds +East, the haze partially cleared away and showed that the coast +had changed its character, being now steep, and in some parts +cliffy, but still occasionally studded with spots of bare sand. +In the interior a rocky, flat-topped hill was seen; it is +probably the Mount Naturaliste of the French. The coast trends +here in a North by West direction.</p> +<p>The passage or channel between the Abrolhos Bank and the coast +has been distinguished by the name of Vlaming's ship, The +Geelvink, since she was the first vessel that passed them (Anno +1697). Captain Hamelin in the Naturaliste also passed within +them, imagining that he perceived them to the eastward, but what +he saw must have been the summit of Moresby's Flat-topped +Range.*</p> +<blockquote>(*Footnote. So M. De Freycinet also thinks, for he +says: "quelques personnes n'osent assurer que nous ayons vu les +Abrolhos; d'autres, et je suis de ce nombre, peusent que ce que +nous avons pris pour ce groupe d'iles est une portion du +Continent." Freycinet page 180.)</blockquote> +<p>The soundings of the coast upon our track between Rottnest +Island and the Abrolhos have been gradually of a gravelly nature, +mixed sometimes with shelly sand, and were generally coarser as +we approached the shore. In some parts, particularly near Cape +Naturaliste and Rottnest Island, the bottom appeared to be a bed +of small water-worn quartzose pebbles not larger than a pin's +head. Off Moresby's Flat-topped Range the bottom is of a soft +dark-gray-coloured sand of a very fine quality that would afford +good anchorage was it not for the constant swell that pervades +this stormy coast; the water was however much smoother than in +other parts, which might have been occasioned either by the +Abrolhos bank's breaking the sea, or from the temporary cessation +of the wind, for it was comparatively light to what it had been +since our leaving Rottnest Island.</p> +<p>A large patch of bare sand terminates the sandy shores of this +coast in latitude 27 degrees 55 minutes. A steep cliff then +commences and extends for eight miles to the Red Point of +Vlaming; behind which is a bight, called by the French Gantheaume +Bay; in the south part of which there appeared a small opening. +This bay did not seem to be so well calculated for taking shelter +in from southerly gales, as Van Keulen's chart indicates; since +it is exposed to winds from South-West by South, from which +quarter it must frequently blow. The country appeared very rocky; +the slight vegetation covering its surface gave it a greenish +hue, but no trees were seen near the shore which is fronted by a +sandy beach; the depth of the bight is probably five or six +miles. The cliffs of Red Point partake of a reddish tinge and +appear to be disposed nearly in horizontal strata. In the centre +and about halfway between the base and summit of the cliffs is a +remarkable block of stone, of very white colour, that at a +distance appeared to be either a fort or house: some black marks +on its face took our attention and resembled characters of a very +large size, as if they had been painted for the purpose of +attracting the attention of vessels passing by; but a closer +examination with the telescope prove them to be only the shadows +of the projecting parts of the surface.</p> +<p>At half-past seven o'clock we hauled off for the night and, +standing off and on, sounded in between thirty-three and +thirty-five fathoms.</p> +<p>January 19.</p> +<p>At daylight the next morning the land bore from East to +East-South-East but the morning and forenoon were so hazy that it +was very indistinctly seen; at noon a partial clearing away of +the haze exposed to our view a long range of high and precipitous +cliffs, the base of which was washed by the sea, breaking upon it +with a tremendous roar, and heard distinctly by us. The wind +falling in the afternoon induced me to stand off shore, when we +soon lost sight of the land. At noon we were in latitude 27 +degrees 5 minutes 18 seconds. At one o'clock the depth was +forty-five fathoms fine gray sand. No land was seen during the +rest of the day; for although the sky was beautifully clear and +serene, the atmosphere for fifteen degrees above the horizon was +enveloped in a thick hazy mist that caused an extraordinary +dampness in the air, and from the unfavourable state of the +weather we did not attempt to make it again.</p> +<p>January 20.</p> +<p>The next morning we saw that part of Dirk Hartog's Island +which lies in 25 degrees 56 minutes, and when we had reached +within four miles of the shore steered to the northward parallel +to the beach, but the haze was still so great as to render the +land very indistinct. We saw enough of it however to be convinced +of its perfect sterility. The coast is lined with a barrier of +rocks on which the sea was breaking high with a roar that was +heard on board although our distance from the shore was at least +three miles.</p> +<p>The warmth of the weather now began rapidly to increase; the +thermometer at noon ranged as high as 79 degrees.</p> +<p>At one o'clock Cape Inscription, the north-westernmost point +of Dirk Hartog's Island, was distinguished and the sea-breeze +veered as far as South-West by West, which was two points more +westerly than we had hitherto had it. At two o'clock the brig +passed round the cape and, as there was an appearance of good +shelter in the bay to the eastward of it, we hauled in and at +half-past three o'clock anchored in twelve fathoms fine gravelly +soft sand; the west point of Dirk Hartog's Island (Cape +Inscription) bearing North 82 degrees West, and the low sandy +point that forms its north-east end South 53 degrees West, at a +mile and a half from the shore.</p> +<p>As we hauled round the cape and were passing under the lee of +the land the breeze became so suddenly heated, by its blowing +over the arid and parched surface of the coast, that my seaweed +hygrometer, which had been quite damp since we left Rottnest +Island, was in ten minutes so dried as to be covered with +crystals of salt; and in this state it continued during our +stay.</p> +<p>Upon rounding the cape two posts were descried upon its +summit, which we conjectured to be those on which the French had +affixed a record of their visit, as well as the more ancient one +of the Dutch navigators, Dirk Hartog and Vlaming; for they were +very conspicuously placed and appeared to be in good +preservation.</p> +<p>We had not anchored five minutes before the vessel was +surrounded by sharks, which at once impressed us with the +propriety of Dampier's nomenclature. One that was caught measured +eleven feet in length but the greater number were not more than +three or four feet long. They were very voracious and scared away +large quantities of fish, of which, however, our people during +the evening caught a good supply.</p> +<p>January 21.</p> +<p>The following morning we landed at the Cape and with eager +steps ascended the rocky face of the hill to examine the +interesting memorials that were affixed to the post; but found to +our great mortification that they had been removed; the only +vestige that remained was the nails by which they had been +secured. One of the posts was about two feet high and evidently +made of the wood of the callitris, that grows upon Rottnest +Island; it appeared to have been broken down; the other was still +erect and seemed to have been either the heel of a ship's +royal-mast or part of a studding-sail boom; upon one side of it a +flag had been fastened by nails. A careful search was made all +round but, as no signs of the Dutch plate or of the more recent +French inscription were seen, it was conjectured that they had +been removed by the natives; but since our return to England I +have learnt that they are preserved in the Museum of the +Institute at Paris, where they had been deposited by M. De +Freycinet upon his return from his late voyage round the world. +After this disappointment we returned to the sea-beach, whilst +Mr. Cunningham botanised along the summit of the ridge; and +before he rejoined us we had been fortunate enough to find two +very fine turtles, and a large quantity of turtle-eggs. The +animals had been left by the tide in holes of the rocks, from +which we had some difficulty in extricating them. During our +absence from the vessel our people had been very successful with +the hook and line, having caught about five or six dozen +snappers, besides some of the genus tetradon.</p> +<p>This seasonable supply and the probability of our procuring +more turtles from the beach induced me to remain here a few days +to perform some trifling repairs that could not be effected at +sea. We were also prevented from moving, from the unfavourable +state of the weather; for it was blowing a gale of wind all the +time we remained; but as our people were living upon fresh food +the time was not considered as lost.</p> +<p>January 22.</p> +<p>The next morning fifty turtles were turned, but as we could +not convey them all on board forty were left on shore upon their +backs for the night: upon landing the next morning they were all +found dead, having killed themselves by their exertions to +escape, and from their exposure to the heat of the sun which was +so great during the day that I did not send any of the people on +shore. We found, however, no difficulty in procuring more, some +of which weighed four hundredweight.</p> +<p>The shore of this bay is fronted by a rocky reef covered with +shell-fish, of which the principal sorts were species of trochus, +chama, conus, voluta, cypraea, buccinum, ostrea, mytilus, and +patella; among the latter was the large one of King George's +Sound. Upon the beaches to windward of the cape we found +varieties of sponge and coral; and beche de mer were observed in +the crevices of the rocks but were neither large nor plentiful. +Mr. Cunningham saw two land snakes, one of which was about four +feet in length; the colour of its back was black and the belly +yellow; the only quadruped seen was a small opossum. A seal of +the hair species, like those of Rottnest Island, was seen on the +rocks, probably of the same description that Dampier found in the +maw of the shark;* and also what was found by the French on Faure +Island, which M. Peron supposed to be an herbivorous animal and +described as a dugong.**</p> +<blockquote>(*Footnote. Dampier volume 3 page 87.)</blockquote> +<blockquote>(**Footnote. Peron volume 2 page 227 et seq and De +Freycinet page 201.)</blockquote> +<p>January 24.</p> +<p>On the 24th Mr. Roe visited the Cape to fix on the post a +memorial of our visit; an inscription was carved upon a small +piece of wood in the back of which was deposited another +memorandum written upon vellum; the wood was of the size of the +sheave-hole of the larger post, into which it was fixed, and near +it Mr. Roe piled up a heap of stones. After this was accomplished +the party walked for some distance along the beach to the +south-west of the cape, where they found the remains of two or +three whales that had been lately wrecked; a small piece of +putrefied flesh was also seen, about two or three feet long, one +side of which was covered with red hair, it was however too far +gone to ascertain to what animal it belonged.</p> +<p>On examining into the state of our dry provisions it was +mortifying to find that the rats and cockroaches had destroyed an +incredible quantity, particularly of our biscuit and flour. In +one of the casks of the latter more than two-thirds of its +contents was deficient. The biscuit was completely drilled +through and the greater part would not have been thought fit to +eat if we had possessed any of a better quality; I still however +hoped to have a sufficiency on board to complete the survey of +the north-west coast before our return to Port Jackson, which I +now found would of necessity be at least four or five weeks +before the time I had fixed upon when we left the Mauritius. As +it would take up a great portion of the time we had now left to +make a more extensive examination of Shark's Bay than what the +French have already performed, and would entirely prevent my +going upon the north-west coast again; it was determined that we +should not delay here, but pass on and resume our examination of +the coast at Cape Cuvier, the northern head of the bay. The only +part of Shark's Bay that seems to be at all interesting, and to +require further examination, is the eastern side of the bay +immediately opposite to the Islands of Dorre and Bernier; but +from the very intricate and shoal nature of its approach it is +very doubtful whether even a sight of the land in that direction +could be procured.</p> +<p>The rocks of Dirk Hartog's Island are of a very remarkable +formation, consisting of a congeries of quartzose sand, united in +small circular kernels by a calcareous cement in which some +shells were found embedded. The geological character of this rock +is more fully treated upon in the Appendix by my friend Dr. +Fitton.</p> +<p>"Upon the summit of the cliffs there are a few low shrubs, at +this time much parched up, but among them Mr. Cunningham found a +tolerably rich harvest. In his collection were the following +plants, which were originally brought to Europe by Dampier; +namely, Trichinium incanum, Br.; Diplolaena dampieri, Desf.; +solanum, a thorny ferruginous species without fructification +(Solanum dampieri ?) Dampiera incana, Br.; and a cordate +melaleuca, figured by Dampier*: a beautiful loranthus +(teretifolius, Cunningham) grew on the branches of an undescribed +acacia (Acacia ligulata, Cunningham manuscript):"..."many were +the wrecks of most interesting plants, and especially those of +soft herbaceous duration, which had some time since fallen a +sacrifice to the apparent long-protracted drought of the season; +but it was impossible, amidst the sad languor of vegetation, not +to admire the luxuriant and healthy habit of an undescribed +species of pittosporum (oleifolium, Cunningham manuscript) which +formed a small robust tree, ten feet high, laden with ripe fruit. +We could perceive no traces either of remains of fires, or +otherwise of natives, in the whole length of our walk along the +edge of the cliffs or the plains, but we saw two snakes of very +distinct kinds, each exceeding five feet in length; the one black +with a yellow belly, the other green and black, but they quickly +escaped into holes, leaving a serpentine impression of their +bodies upon the sand. These marks were seen and remarked near the +edge of all the holes, which were very numerous upon the surface +of the island, before I discovered that they were the tracks of +reptiles, from which it may be inferred that these animals are +very abundant. The only bird seen was a solitary species of +loxia, but upon a steep ledge of rocks I observed one of those +nests of which frequent mention has been already made: I examined +and found it built upon the pinnacle of some large rocks, very +strongly constructed of long sticks; it was about five feet high +and exceeded four feet in diameter, with a very slight cavity +above; and seemed to have been very recently inhabited. The rocks +that formed its base were ornamented with a prostrate capparis, +or calyptranthus (Calyptranthus orbicularis, Cunningham +manuscript) which afforded me good flowering specimens. In my +walk I started a small black kangaroo: it was feeding upon the +seeds of a small acacia and, upon perceiving my approach, fled +across the down without reaching a single bush or rock large +enough to conceal itself as far as the eye could discern it, so +bare and destitute of vegetation are these arid, sandy plains."* +The heat of the weather was so great as not to allow of any +communication with the shore, excepting between daybreak and +eight o'clock. Mr. Cunningham's visits were therefore necessarily +much confined: this precaution I found it absolutely requisite to +take to prevent the people from being exposed to the very great +heat of the sun, which on shore must have been at least twenty +degrees more powerful than on board, where the thermometer ranged +between 71 1/2 degrees at midnight, and 85 and 87 degrees at +noon. The barometer ranged between 29.76 and 29.99 inches, and +stood highest when the wind was to the eastward of south, with +which winds the horizon was much clearer, and the air +consequently drier than when the wind blew from the sea.</p> +<blockquote>(*Footnote. Cunningham manuscript.)</blockquote> +<p>As an anchorage during the summer months Dirk Hartog's Road +has everything to recommend it, excepting the total absence of +fresh water which, according to the French, was not found in any +part of Shark's Bay; the anchorage is secure and the bottom clear +of rocks. There is also an abundance of fish and turtle, and of +the latter a ship might embark forty or fifty every day, for they +are very sluggish and make no effort to escape, perhaps from +knowing the impossibility of their scrambling over the rocky +barrier that fronts the shore, and dries at half ebb. Of fish we +caught only two kinds; the snapper, a species of sparus, called +by the French the rouge bossu, and a tetradon which our people +could not be persuaded to eat, although the French lived chiefly +upon it. There are some species of this genus that are poisonous +but many are of delicious flavour: it is described by M. Lacepede +in a paper in the Annal. du Museum d'Histoire Naturelle (tome 4 +page 203) as le Tetrodon argente (Tetrodon argenteus).</p> +<p>January 26.</p> +<p>On the 26th we sailed and passed outside of Dorre and +Bernier's Islands; nothing was seen of the reef that lies in +mid-channel on the south side of Dorre Island: a rippling was +noticed by Mr. Roe in an East by South direction from the +masthead at twenty minutes before one o'clock but, if the +position assigned to it by the French is correct, we had passed +it long before that time. At six o'clock Kok's Island, the small +rocky islet that lies off the north end of Bernier's Island, bore +North 83 degrees East, distant seven miles.</p> +<p>January 27.</p> +<p>The following morning at daylight the land was seen in the +North-East and at half-past eight o'clock we resumed our course +and passed Cape Cuvier, a reddish-coloured rocky bluff that +presents a precipitous face to the sea. The coast thence takes a +North by East direction; it is low and sandy and fronted by a +sandy beach, occasionally interrupted by projecting rocky points; +those parts where patches of bare sand were noticed are marked +upon the chart.</p> +<p>At one o'clock we were near a low sandy projection round which +the coast extends to the East-North-East and forms a shallow bay. +This projection was called after Sir Robert Townsend Farquhar, +Bart., the late Governor of the Mauritius.</p> +<p>Farther on, in latitude 23 degrees 10 minutes 30 seconds, is a +projection which, at Mr. Cunningham's request, was called after +Mr. William Anderson of the apothecaries' garden at Chelsea. The +coast to the northward of Point Anderson is higher than to the +southward and falls back to the North-East, but was very +imperfectly seen on account of the thick haze that enveloped it. +At a quarter before seven o'clock we hauled to the wind for the +night with a fresh gale from the southward.</p> +<p>January 28.</p> +<p>The next morning was cloudy and the horizon tolerably clear; +but towards noon a light haze began to spread, which by sunset +was so thick as entirely to conceal the land. The mercury fell as +low as 29.76 inches and, although the thermometer was at 79 +degrees and the sun powerful, yet the atmosphere was so charged +with moisture that the decks and everything out of the immediate +influence of the sun were quite damp. This extraordinary and +constant humidity appeared only to occupy the atmosphere for the +sky was always beautifully clear and serene.</p> +<p>During the night the gale blew strong from the southward with +a high topping sea from the South-West; and being occupied in +shifting the main topsail which had split during the night, we +stood off until three o'clock before we tacked towards the +shore.</p> +<p>January 29.</p> +<p>At eight o'clock being in latitude 22 degrees 19 minutes 23 +seconds, the land was visible from North-East to South 35 degrees +East at the distance of five or six leagues: by its outline +which, from the glare of the sun was the only part at all +discernible, it seemed to be of moderate height, very level, and +offering no particular mark that could be set with any chance of +recognition to obtain a cross bearing. As there is every reason +to believe that this part of the coast is what was taken by +former navigators for Cloates Island,* I have named the +southernmost point of the high land Point Cloates.</p> +<blockquote>(*Footnote. See volume 1.)</blockquote> +<p>At noon we were in latitude 21 degrees 57 minutes 5 seconds, +having experienced a current of twenty-three miles to the north +since yesterday at noon. The northern extreme, Vlaming's Head, +bore North-East by East 1/2 East and the south extreme South 7 +degrees West; and in the bearing of between South 32 degrees to +82 degrees East the land is higher than in other parts and +declines very gradually towards the extreme.</p> +<p>As the brig approached the land breakers were seen to extend +the whole length of the shore, which is fronted by a sandy beach: +the land is of moderate height but the summit is rather more +rugged than that to the southward where the outline is perfectly +level. At half-past three o'clock Vlaming Head bore south six +miles and three quarters off: at four o'clock the latitude, by +the moon's meridional altitude, was found to be 21 degrees 38 +minutes 27 seconds, at which time sights were taken for the +chronometer, which made the longitude of the head 114 degrees 2 +minutes 16 seconds: the situation assigned to it on our first +voyage was 114 degrees 1 minute 47 seconds; the mean of the two, +114 degrees 2 minutes 2 seconds, may therefore be considered its +true situation.</p> +<p>From the above observation for the latitude of the North-West +Cape agreeing nearly with those of our former voyage, I was +induced to think that there might be some land more to the +northward that the French saw and took for the cape; for they +have placed it in 21 degrees 37 minutes 7 seconds South, which is +nearly 10 minutes too northerly. Captain Horsburgh, in the +supplement to his Directory, notices some islands seen by the San +Antonio in 1818, called Piddington's Islands, that are said to +lie in the latitude of 21 degrees 36 minutes, but after steering +seventeen miles to the North-East from the above situation, +without seeing anything like land, there remained no doubt in my +mind that the French must have been deceived and that +Piddington's Islands are some of the low, sandy islets to the +eastward of Muiron Island.</p> +<p>January 30.</p> +<p>Having steered through the night on a north-east course, +Barrow's Island came in sight the next morning, when it was about +five leagues off; at eight o'clock it bore between South 27 East +and North 87 degrees East. From noon to three p.m. we had calm, +dull, and cloudy weather; and although the thermometer did not +range higher than 87 degrees, the heat was extremely oppressive, +and occasioned the death of three of our turtles. At three +o'clock a breeze springing up from the westward enabled us to +steer to the northward round the Montebello Islands, in doing +which we saw nothing of Hermite Island, which the French have +laid down as the westernmost island of that group. There is +certainly no land to the westward of Trimouille Island; and the +error can only be accounted for by Captain Baudin's having seen +the latter at two different periods; indeed this conjecture is in +some measure proved, since there is a considerable reef running +off the north-west end of that island, which in the French chart +is attached to Hermite Island; this reef might not have been seen +by him at his first visit, and when he made the land again and +observed the reef he must have concluded it to have been a second +island.</p> +<p>After steering a north course until seven o'clock and +deepening the water to sixty-five fathoms, we gradually hauled +round the north end of the Montebello Isles; and at eleven p.m. +steered East; but at two o'clock, having decreased the depth from +seventy-two to forty-one fathoms, we steered off to the northward +until daylight, and then to the East-South-East, in order to +anchor in the Mermaid's Strait to the eastward of Malus Island, +to take some stones on board as ballast, for the brig was so very +light and leewardly that it would have been running a great risk +to approach the land, as she then was. But in this we were +disappointed, for after an interval of close sultry weather, and +a severe thunderstorm, a gale of wind set in from the South-West, +during which the barometer fell as low as 29.36 inches. The gale +then veered gradually round to the North-West, and obliged us to +make sail off the coast, and by the time it moderated we were so +far to leeward of Dampier's Archipelago that I was constrained to +alter my plan and give up the idea of taking ballast on board. I +therefore determined upon making Rowley's Shoals, for the purpose +of fixing their position with greater correctness, and examining +the extent of the bight round Cape Leveque, which we were obliged +to leave unexplored during the earlier part of this voyage.</p> +<p>1822. February 4.</p> +<p>The first of these objects was effected on the 4th; on which +day we passed round the south end of the Imperieuse (the +westernmost) Shoal; which we now found to extend nearly four +miles more to the southward than had been suspected in 1818, at +which period we steered round its north end.</p> +<p>A large patch of dry rocks was also seen on the north-east end +of the reef about ten miles from the vessel's track, and Mr. Roe, +from the masthead, thought that the east side of the shoal did +not appear to be so steep as the western side.</p> +<p>From noon we steered east to make the shoal seen by the Good +Hope, but having sailed in that direction as far as latitude 17 +degrees 42 minutes 51 seconds and longitude 119 degrees 32 +minutes 4 seconds, without seeing any signs of it for ten miles +on either side of our course, we hauled to the wind for the night +and sounded in one hundred and forty-five fathoms speckled sand +and broken shells.</p> +<p>February 5.</p> +<p>At seven o'clock the following morning we were steering east +when broken water was reported bearing from East to +East-South-East, but it turned out to be a rippling which we +passed through. These ripplings have been frequently noticed in +the vicinity of the reefs, but we have been very little affected +by the tides by which they must be occasioned. At noon we were by +observation in 17 degrees 43 minutes 41 seconds and longitude 119 +degrees 41 minutes 52 seconds, when we sounded in one hundred and +twenty fathoms, speckled sand mixed with broken shells and +stones; and at twenty miles farther to the eastward sounded again +on the same depth.</p> +<p>February 6.</p> +<p>At eight o'clock the next morning, having steered through the +night North-East by East, we were in ninety fathoms, sand, broken +shells, and large stones.</p> +<p>February 8.</p> +<p>On the morning of the 8th the land was seen in the South-East +and soon afterwards the brig passed round Cape Leveque at the +distance of a mile and a half. On our way towards Point Swan we +saw from the masthead a line of strong tide-ripplings, extending +from the point in a North-West by West direction; within which we +at first attempted to pass but, finding that they were connected +to the point, hauled up to steer through them where they seemed +to be the least dangerous. As we approached the noise was +terrific and, although we were not more than two minutes amongst +the breakers, yet the shocks of the sea were so violent as to +make me fear for the safety of our masts. A smaller vessel would +perhaps have been swamped; for although the sea was in other +parts quite smooth and the wind light, yet the water broke over +the bows and strained the brig considerably.</p> +<p>We then steered between Point Swan and two rocky islands lying +five miles from the shore over a space which, at our last visit, +appeared to be occupied by an extensive reef, but we were then +probably deceived by tide-ripplings.</p> +<p>It was my intention to have brought up under the lee of the +point, where Dampier describes his having anchored in twenty-nine +fathoms clear sandy ground; but upon rounding the projection, the +wind suddenly fell and, after a light squall from South-West we +had a dead calm; the depth was thirty fathoms coral bottom and +therefore not safe to anchor upon; this was unfortunate for the +sudden defection of the wind prevented our hauling into the bay +out of the tide, which was evidently running with considerable +rapidity and drifting us, without our having the means of +preventing it, towards a cluster of small rocks and islands +through which we could not discover any outlet, and which were so +crowded that in the dangerous predicament in which we found +ourselves placed they bore a truly awful and terrific appearance. +At this time I was at my usual post, the masthead, directing the +steerage of the vessel; but as the brig was drifting forward by a +rapid sluice of tide towards some low rocks, about a quarter of a +mile off, that were not more than two feet above the water's +edge, and upon which it appeared almost inevitable that we must +strike, I descended to the deck, under the certain conviction +that we could not escape the dangers that were strewed across our +path unless a breeze should spring up, of which there was not the +slightest appearance or probability.</p> +<p>Happily however the stream of the tide swept us past the rocks +without accident and, after carrying us about half a mile +farther, changed its direction to south-east and drifted us +towards a narrow strait separating two rocky islands, in the +centre of which was a large insulated rock that seemed to divide +the stream. The boat was now hoisted out and sent ahead to tow, +but we could not succeed in getting the vessel's head round. As +she approached the strait the channel became much narrower, and +several islands were passed at not more than thirty yards from +her course. The voices of natives were now heard and soon +afterwards some were seen on either side of the strait, hallooing +and waving their arms; we were so near to one party that they +might have thrown their spears on board; they had a dog with them +which Mr. Cunningham remarked to be black. By this time we were +flying past the shore with such velocity that it made us quite +giddy; and our situation was too awful to give us time to observe +the motions of the Indians; for we were entering the narrowest +part of the strait, and the next moment were close to the rock +which it appeared to be almost impossible to avoid; and it was +more than probable that the stream it divided would carry us +broadside upon it, when the consequences would have been truly +dreadful; the current, or sluice, was setting past the rock at +the rate of eight or nine knots, and the water being confined by +its intervention fell at least six or seven feet; at the moment, +however, when we were upon the point of being dashed to pieces, a +sudden breeze providentially sprung up and, filling our sails, +impelled the vessel forward for three or four yards: this was +enough, but only just sufficient, for the rudder was not more +than six yards from the rock. No sooner had we passed this +frightful danger than the breeze fell again and was succeeded by +a dead calm; the tide however continued to carry us on with a +gradually decreasing strength until one o'clock, when we felt +very little effect from it.</p> +<p>From the spot we had now reached the coast from Cape Leveque +appeared to trend to the southward but was not visible beyond the +bearing of South-West; there was however some land more to the +southward that had the appearance of being an island; it was +afterwards found to be a projection, forming the east head of a +bay, and was subsequently called after my friend Mr. Cunningham, +to whose indefatigable zeal the scientific world is considerably +indebted for the very extensive and valuable botanical collection +that has been formed upon this voyage.</p> +<p>We had a dead calm until high-water during which, as the brig +continued to drive with the tide to the southward in from twenty +to twenty-four fathoms, over a rocky bottom, I was undetermined +what course to pursue in order to preserve the situation which we +had so unexpectedly reached, and to prevent the ebb-tide from +carrying us back through the strait: the bare idea of this +impending danger reconciled me to determine upon sacrificing an +anchor, for, from the nature of the bottom, it seemed next to +impossible that we could recover it, if once dropped. Just, +however, as the tide was beginning to turn, a breeze sprang up +from the westward and at once put an end to our fears and +anxieties; all sail was made towards Point Cunningham beyond +which no land was visible; but the tide being adverse and the +evening near at hand, we anchored in the bight to the north-west +of the Point which bore South 32 1/2 degrees East seven miles and +a half.</p> +<p>February 9.</p> +<p>The next day I remained at the anchorage and despatched Mr. +Roe to examine the coast round Point Cunningham; Mr. Baskerville +in the meantime sounded about the bay between the brig and the +western shore and found very good anchorage in all parts: at +about one mile to the westward of our situation the bottom was of +mud, and the depth nine and ten fathoms: the land appeared a good +deal broken, like islands, but from the vessel the coast seemed +to be formed by a continuity of deep bays that may perhaps afford +good anchorage. On one of the sandy beaches at the back of the +bay near Park Hillock, so-called from its green appearance and +being studded with trees, eight or ten natives were observed +walking along the beach close to the low water mark, probably in +search of shell-fish; some of them were children, and perhaps the +others were women, except two or three who carried spears; a dog +was trotting along the beach behind them.</p> +<p>After dark, according to a preconcerted plan, port fires were +burnt every half hour for Mr. Roe's guidance, and before midnight +the boat came alongside. Mr. Roe informed me that there was good +anchorage round the point; and where he landed at Point +Cunningham there was plenty of fresh water; but he saw nothing +like land to the South-East; the coast trended from Point +Cunningham to the south, and was of low wooded sandy land. The +heat was excessive; the thermometer at noon, out of the influence +of the sun, stood at 120 degrees, and when they landed at Point +Cunningham Mr. Roe thought the heat was increased at least 10 +degrees. At this place he obtained an indifferent meridian +altitude which placed it in 16 degrees 40 minutes 18 seconds +South.</p> +<p>In the meantime Mr. Cunningham, who had accompanied him, +botanised with success. The traces of natives, dogs, +turtle-bones, and broken shells, were found strewed about; and +several fireplaces were noticed that had very recently been used; +a fresh-water stream was running down the rocks into the sea, and +at the back of the beach was a hollow, full of sweet water. Near +the fireplaces Mr. Roe picked up some stones that had been +chipped probably in the manufacture of their hatchets.</p> +<p>The soil was of a red-coloured earth of a very sandy nature; +and the rocks were two sorts of sandstone, one of a deep red +colour, the other whitish, and harder. After leaving Point +Cunningham they pulled round the rocks, which extended for some +distance off the point, and then entered a bay, all over which +they found good anchorage; a low distant point formed the south +extreme, but it was too late to reach it and at high-water they +landed at a bright red, cliffy point.</p> +<p>At half-past five o'clock they re-embarked on their return +and, although the tide was in their favour, were six hours before +they reached the vessel; from which Mr. Roe calculated the +distance to be nearly twenty miles, and by the survey +subsequently made it was found to be seventeen.</p> +<p>February 11.</p> +<p>We did not leave this anchorage until the 11th and then had +some difficulty in doing it, on account of the shoalness of the +water upon the sandbank that fronts the bay; indeed we were +obliged to anchor until the tide rose high enough to permit our +crossing it. At two o'clock we again got underweigh and crossed +the bank, when the wind falling calm we anchored with Point +Cunningham bearing South 17 degrees East three and a half +miles.</p> +<p>February 12.</p> +<p>The following morning I sent Mr. Roe to the point to take some +bearings; the boat left the brig at half-past three o'clock but +did not succeed in reaching the land before the sun rose; at +which time the horizon, from being clearer, would have presented +a more distinct view of distant objects. The group of islands to +the eastward was observed to extend no farther to the southward +than the bearing of North 88 degrees East, and beyond this was an +open, boundless sea. The station whence this bearing was taken +was on the north-west trend of the point.</p> +<p>On their first landing Mr. Roe and Mr. Baskerville, with one +of the boat's crew, ascended the summit and, whilst employed in +looking round, heard the voices of natives among the trees about +thirty yards off; but as they could not see them they very +properly descended, and carried on their operations in the +vicinity of the boat; they were onshore for two or three hours +afterwards, but the natives did not make their appearance. The +foot-marks of men and boys were evident on the sand below the +high-water mark, and the remains of fireplaces, and where the +natives had been manufacturing spears, were of recent date. The +gentlemen brought off a few shells and some insects, among which +was a beautiful sphynx; besides which one of the boat's crew +caught a species of vampyrus, apparently similar to the flying +fox of Port Jackson. Of shells there was not a great variety; a +chama (Tridacna gigas, Lam.) a pinna, and the trochus +(caerulescens) of Dirk Hartog's Island; but at one of the +fireplaces they found a very large voluta that seemed to have +served the purpose of a water-vessel; it was fifteen inches long +and ten inches in diameter.</p> +<p>The shores appear to abound with shellfish, although Dampier +thought that shells hereabouts were scarce. We could easily have +completed our water at this point, but from the place appearing +to be populous and, as the vessel could not be anchored +sufficiently near the shore to have protected the boat's crews, +it was feared that our work might be impeded by the natives.</p> +<p>The boat returned at ten o'clock while we were getting +underweigh; but the wind being at South-East it was one o'clock +before we weathered Point Cunningham, when the tide was urging us +forward rapidly. In steering round the point we found ourselves +passing through some light coloured water and, before we could +extricate the brig, were in three and a half fathoms; the anchor +was immediately dropped underfoot and, with the assistance of the +sails, which were kept full, the vessel was retained whilst the +whale-boat was veered astern, and ascertained that the shoalest +part had been already passed; therefore the anchor was again +weighed, and eventually dropped in the bay to the south of Point +Cunningham in fourteen fathoms and three quarters, fine speckled +sand and stones.</p> +<p>In the direction of North 63 degrees West and at a mile and a +half from the anchorage was a remarkable flat-topped hill which +was called at Mr. Cunningham's wish, Carlisle Head, and the bay +in which we anchored, Goodenough Bay, in compliment to the Right +Reverend the Lord Bishop of Carlisle. At this part Mr. Cunningham +found a new species of velleia (of the natural order +Goodenoviae).</p> +<p>We were now suffering much from the extreme heat and closeness +of the weather; the thermometer ranged night and day between 85 +and 89 degrees, and when the breeze was light or the weather calm +the air was insufferably hot and close, and affected us all very +much, but happily without any very serious consequences.</p> +<p>In the evening four natives armed with spears were seen +sitting in the shade upon the sandy beach under Carlisle Head, +attentively watching us; but upon being joined by three others, +who came towards them from Point Cunningham, got up and walked +away. We have yet to learn how far these people may be confided +in, for we were not at a very great distance from Hanover Bay +where we so nearly paid dear for trusting ourselves amongst them +unarmed.</p> +<p>February 13.</p> +<p>We remained at the anchorage in Goodenough Bay until the +following morning, when we weighed to a very light breeze from +south-east, the only direction from which we experienced any +wind; the breeze generally blew strong at night, whilst during +the day it was light, or nearly calm; so that during the night we +were very insecurely placed if the anchorage was at all +suspicious, and in the day were either delayed very much or +entirely prevented from weighing.</p> +<p>Thus it was with us on this day; soon after we weighed it fell +calm and the tide, drifting us rapidly to the southward over +rocky ground, carried us close to a reef of dry rocks to the +northward of Foul Point without our being able to avoid it. At a +little before five o'clock the flood-tide was nearly expended and +obliged us to drop the chain-cabled anchor at the distance of +three miles from Foul Point, upon a bottom of rotten +yellow-coloured rock that crumbled away upon being touched, but +from the noise that the chain made in dragging over the ground +there was reason to apprehend it was very rocky; and consequently +great fears were entertained for the safety of our anchor.</p> +<p>Our situation was in the outer part of a bay, the southern +head of which bore South 22 degrees East, and which, from the +loss and perplexity we met with in it, was afterwards called +Disaster Bay, and its south extreme, off which is a small rocky +island, was named Repulse Point.</p> +<p>During the afternoon we had another instance of mirage which +proved useful so far that it indicated to us the trend of the +land to the south-eastward, in which direction nothing had +previously been seen; it appeared to be very low and level, and +similar to the character of the coast on the southward of Cape +Leveque. At sunset when the haze cleared off and the appearance +of the land gradually sank below the horizon we were instantly +relieved from the oppressive heat we had experienced during the +day, for the thermometer had indicated a temperature of 91 +degrees and, when exposed to the influence of the sun, rose to +120 degrees.</p> +<p>Three natives were noticed as we passed along the shore; they +were walking upon a sandy beach abreast of us but very soon +disappeared among the trees and bushes which here grow close down +to the waterside; they were armed with spears and appeared to be +watching our movements; for they moved along in the direction of +our course and did not afterwards make their appearance during +the evening.</p> +<p>February 14.</p> +<p>The next morning whilst the ebb-tide lasted we had a light +breeze but, at noon, as the weather was calm and the brig could +not be got underweigh, either with safety or utility, the boats +were despatched in different directions to improve our knowledge +of the place.</p> +<p>At low water a considerable sandbank was exposed to our view, +that had not previously been seen; it fronts the bay and is dry +at low tide for some extent, it is also shoal some distance to +the northward, as our boat had only four feet in passing over it. +In the afternoon, as there was every appearance of fine weather +and no likelihood of a breeze, Mr. Baskerville and Mr. Cunningham +set off in a boat to visit Repulse Point, in order to make what +observations they could upon the further trend of the land; but +no sooner had they left the vessel than a breeze sprung up and +freshened to a gale in which our cable parted; and as there was +no chance of dropping another anchor with a prospect of +recovering it, we were obliged to return to our former anchorage +in Goodenough Bay; but, owing to the tide being contrary, the +brig did not reach it until nearly sunset. Our alarm and +anxieties were now raised to a great pitch for the safety of Mr. +Baskerville and his companions: signals of recall had been +hoisted and several guns fired before the cable parted, but the +boat was too far off to notice either: as soon as it was dark +signal guns were fired and port fires burnt every ten minutes to +guide its return.</p> +<p>Happily these signals at last had the desired effect, for at +ten o'clock the boat came alongside. Mr. Baskerville had failed +in reaching Repulse Point but obtained some useful information as +to the trend of the land round the point, which still appeared to +extend to the southward; they had not been able to land, but had +encountered much danger from the small size of the boat, which +shipped a great deal of water, so that by the time it arrived +they were completely drenched with the spray of the sea. They had +only observed our signals for a few minutes before their arrival; +for the flashes of the guns and the lights of the port-fires were +so confused with lightning and the fires of the natives on the +shore that they could not be distinguished from each other. Soon +after they arrived on board heavy rain commenced, and fell during +the greater part of the night.</p> +<p>February 15.</p> +<p>The ensuing day the weather was still squally and unsettled. +In the afternoon the launch and another boat were sent in search +of our lost anchor but returned at night without success; for the +tide was so strong that the buoy did not watch. The next morning +it was again intended to resume the search, but the weather +clouded in and threatened to be so bad that all further attempts +were abandoned.</p> +<p>This succession of bad weather, and our having only one anchor +left, made me feel the necessity of leaving this part, and giving +up for the present the examination of this interesting place; and +as we wanted both wood and water, which we had found no +opportunity of obtaining here on account of the tempestuous state +of the weather, it was purposed we should go to Port George the +Fourth, which place would afford both security for the vessel and +facility for procuring these articles. This delay might also be +made serviceable by employing a part of the crew at the same time +in the boats in examining the islands in Rogers Strait, and +tracing the continuation of the mainland behind the islands that +form the south-east coast of Camden Bay, of which we knew +nothing. After doing this I hoped to be able to continue the +examination of the deep bay behind Montgomery's Islands, and +connect that part with the gulf or strait behind the Buccaneer's +Archipelago in which we now were; but our loss of anchors made +all this very dangerous and, indeed, nothing could be done +without very fine weather, of which there was at present +unfortunately no appearance.</p> +<p>But a greater and more serious hindrance was that our +provisions were very much reduced in quantity, and that we had +not more than enough to last, upon a full allowance, for the +voyage to Port Jackson; the hope however of procuring more +information of this part of the coast was so inviting that I did +not despair of effecting something in a fortnight worth the +delay. We had dry provisions and water on board for about ten +weeks, so that with fine weather we could have retarded our +departure for ten or twelve days without much risk.</p> +<p>February 16.</p> +<p>Our quitting this place being determined upon we did not lose +any time; but from various delays of calm weather and adverse +tides could not succeed in getting out to sea until the 18th.</p> +<p>It was impossible to go out by the dangerous channel through +which we entered; but as Sunday Strait, through which the brig +had been drifted before we went to Mauritius, appeared free from +danger, we directed our course to it.</p> +<p>February 17.</p> +<p>And, after being underweigh all the night near its inner +entrance, during which we had once nearly struck on a reef of +rocks, found ourselves at daylight drifting through it with a +rapid ebb-tide without a breath of wind. The tide however lasted +long enough to carry us out, and when the flood commenced, which +would have drifted us back again, a fresh breeze sprang up from +the westward and very soon carried us clear of the influence of +the tide.</p> +<p>With respect to the opening we had now left there were many +conflicting opinions among us, but I have every reason to think +that the land from Cape Leveque to Point Gantheaume is an island +and that there is also a communication between Cygnet and +Collier's Bays, behind the islands of the Archipelago, where it +is also probable there is an opening trending to the south-east. +The great rise and fall of the tides in the neighbourhood of +Point Gantheaume gives a plausibility to this opinion; and the +only thing that I know against it is the trifling depth of the +water between that point and Cape Villaret. This however may be +caused by the numerous banks and channels existing there, and +which, of themselves alone, are indicative of the opening being +something more than a mere bay.</p> +<p>As sunset approached the eastern horizon was as usual in +commotion; heavy dense clouds were collected, from which we had +thunder and lightning. At seven o'clock the appearance was more +threatening and, as a squall was evidently approaching, the sails +were taken in and preparation made to meet it: soon after eight +o'clock it passed rapidly over and brought a strong gust of wind, +before which we were obliged to scud. After blowing most +tempestuously for an hour the wind moderated, and the night +passed without any repetition of it; we had however run five +miles to leeward: had we been obliged to do this last night when +underway in Cygnet Bay, or been drifted back this evening by the +ebb-tide, we should have been very dangerously placed, from being +surrounded by islands and blinded by the darkness of the night. +Whilst this squall lasted the barometer was in no way affected, +but the thermometer fell two degrees, having stood all the +afternoon at 89 3/4 degrees.</p> +<p>February 18.</p> +<p>During the remainder of the night we stood off and on and +experienced a current setting in the direction of North 52 +degrees West one mile per hour. At eight o'clock the next morning +(18th) Adele Island was seen; and in the afternoon we passed at a +mile and a half from the western side of the reef which surrounds +it. This island is low and sandy and covered with small bushes; +it is about two or three miles in length; a dry sand extends for +five miles from its south end, and as far as one mile from its +north-west point; but the covered part of the reef is more +extensive, and appeared rocky. At the distance of three miles and +a half, in a north-west direction from its north end, are two dry +sandbanks which are probably covered at high-water. +Light-coloured water extended for three miles to the westward and +for fourteen miles to the north-west; but the water is probably +deep enough over it for any vessel to pass: we steered over the +tail within the coloured water, but had no bottom with forty-five +fathoms. In many parts near the island the rocks must be very +little below the surface of the water, for the sea occasionally +broke upon them.</p> +<p>We then steered to the East and East-North-East and at night +made short trips on either tack. The weather was extremely sultry +during the afternoon, the thermometer being at 89 degrees, and +when exposed to the sun the mercury rose to 125 degrees. Towards +sunset large flights of boobies, terns, and other sea-birds +passed by, flying towards the islands. One or two stopped to +notice us and flew round the brig several times.</p> +<p>February 19.</p> +<p>The night was fine with light south-west winds; but we had +lightning in the North-East, from which quarter at daylight the +weather clouded in; and, from the increasing dampness of the +atmosphere, indicated rain.</p> +<p>At noon we were in 15 degrees 12 minutes 15 seconds South and +7 minutes 1 second east of the anchorage in Cygnet Bay. The wind +was from the southward with dull cloudy weather. Large flights of +birds were about the vessel, preying upon small fish swimming +among the seaweed, of which we passed a great quantity. As the +evening approached the weather clouded in and threatened us with +another squall from the eastward. The thermometer stood at 88 +degrees, and the barometer at 29.81 inches: half an hour before +sunset the clouds, which had collected in the eastern horizon, +began to thicken and approach us with loud thunder and vivid +lightning: all the sails, except the topsails which were lowered, +were furled just in time to avoid any bad effects from the +squall, which commenced with a strong gust from East-South-East +and East; it lasted about an hour, during the latter part of +which we had very heavy rain. At eight o'clock the wind fell to a +calm and was afterwards baffling and light from north to east and +south-east.</p> +<p>February 20.</p> +<p>At daylight (20th) the morning was dull and cloudy: a bank of +heavy threatening clouds, rising from the eastward, induced my +steering to the westward to await the issue of this weather, so +unfavourable for our doing any good upon the coast, as well as +increasing the danger of navigating among reefs and islands where +the tides were so strong. The next morning at daylight we had a +squall with rain and wind from the eastward after which a fresh +breeze set in from the same quarter: as this weather appeared +likely to last I very unwillingly determined upon leaving the +coast and returning immediately to Port Jackson.</p> +<p>February 21 to 24.</p> +<p>From the 21st until the 24th we had moderate winds between +north and south-east which gradually drew us out of the influence +of the damp, unwholesome weather we so lately experienced. Our +course was held to the northward of Rowley's Shoals which, upon +passing, we found a strong current setting towards them at the +rate of one mile an hour. This indraught increases the danger of +navigating near this part but I do not recollect having +experienced any when we passed them in June, 1818. The current, +therefore, that we felt, may be only of temporary duration, and +probably caused by the variable state of the wind.</p> +<p>1822. February 24 to March 3.</p> +<p>Between the 24th of February and the 3rd of March we had light +and variable winds from all directions but, being more frequent +from the eastward than from any other point of the compass, I +became reconciled to the step I had taken of leaving the coast, +since it would not have been possible to have reached Port George +the Fourth to effect any good.</p> +<p>The thermometer now ranged between 87 and 89 degrees and the +weather was consequently extremely oppressive and sultry.</p> +<p>March 3 to 11.</p> +<p>On the 3rd at noon we were in latitude 18 degrees 45 minutes +18 seconds and longitude 111 degrees 4 minutes 15 seconds when a +breeze sprang up from the South-east and carried us within the +influence of the trade, which blew steadily between +South-South-east and South by East and advanced us on our passage +but carried us considerably to the westward. On this course we +were accompanied by immense shoals of albicores (Scomber thynnus, +Linn.) but they were of small size; very few measured more than +twenty inches in length, and the average weight about ten pounds: +The meat was very good and tender and as a great number of the +fish were caught, proved a grateful relief to our salt diet. The +atmosphere was very damp and before the vessel entered the trade +we had lightning every night, but it ceased the moment that we +were within its limits. Tropic and other oceanic birds, some of a +dark brown colour, hovered about us and were our daily +companions, particularly the latter which preyed upon the small +fish that were pursued by the albicores.</p> +<p>March 11 to 14.</p> +<p>From the 11th to the 14th the trade ceased and the interval +was supplied by a northerly wind, veering round to west, which +enabled us to make up for the ground we had lost by its having +been so much from the southward. After this we had variable +breezes between South and East-South-East but the current, which +before had been setting us to the north-west, now set to the +north-east; this change was probably occasioned by the +south-westerly swell.</p> +<p>On the 14th we were in 27 degrees 49 minutes South, and 101 +degrees 1 minute East. Some tropic birds were seen this morning +but as yet neither albatrosses nor pintadoes had made their +appearance. During the short cessation of the trade the +atmosphere was very dry until the south-easterly winds returned, +when it became more humid; but as we approached the southern +limit of this South-East wind, which may be considered to bear +more of the character of a periodical wind than the trade, the +atmosphere became altogether drier; it carried us as far as 32 +degrees 40 minutes South and 96 degrees 42 minutes West before it +veered to the northward of east when, after a calm, we had +north-easterly winds and fine weather of which we made good +use.</p> +<p>The first albatross was seen in 31 1/4 degrees South and was +flying about the brig at the same time with a tropic bird, which +is a remarkable occurrence, for I never saw the latter bird +before so far without the tropic; but here was one nearly five +hundred miles to the southward of it, and at least three hundred +leagues from the nearest land; an albatross (Diomedea exulans, +Linn.) was shot, but did not measure more than nine feet nine +inches across the tips of the wings.</p> +<p>February 25.</p> +<p>On the 25th of February we examined our water and found the +casks so much damaged by rats that instead of having thirteen +tons we had only nine on board, but as this was thought to be +sufficient for our voyage the daily issue was not reduced.</p> +<p>March 28.</p> +<p>On the 28th of March however it was found necessary to make a +considerable reduction in the allowance.</p> +<p>April 13.</p> +<p>On the 13th of April the north-west end of Van Diemen's Land +came in sight but it was not until the 15th that we entered Bass +Strait by the passage between King's and Hunter's Islands. Off +Cape Howe we boarded a trading brig belonging to Port Jackson +bound to Van Diemen's Land, from which we obtained pleasing and +satisfactory news of our friends at Sydney, as also the +gratifying intelligence of the promotion of myself to the rank of +commander, and of Messrs. Bedwell and Roe to that of lieutenant. +The promotion of the latter gentleman was under circumstances of +the most flattering nature, and here not only offers a most +satisfactory proof of the approbation bestowed by the Lords +Commissioners of the Admiralty upon my zealous assistant, but +precludes me from the otherwise pleasing task of giving my humble +testimonial of his conduct and merits.</p> +<p>Between Cape Howe and Port Jackson we experienced much bad +weather, which delayed our arrival so long that we had expended +all our bread and were reduced to a very small proportion of +water:</p> +<p>April 25.</p> +<p>We however succeeded in effecting our arrival at Sydney by the +25th, after an absence of 344 days.</p> +<p><a name="chapter05"></a></p> +<h3>CHAPTER 5.</h3> +<blockquote>The Bathurst sails for England.<br> +Remarks upon some errors in the hydrography of the south coast of +Van Diemen's Land.<br> +King George the Third's Sound.<br> +Passage to the Cape of Good Hope.<br> +Cross the Atlantic, and arrive at Plymouth Sound.<br> +Observations upon the voyages, and conclusion.</blockquote> +<p>1822. April 25 to September 25.</p> +<p>Upon an examination of the brig's defects after our arrival at +Port Jackson her stern and cut-water were found so defective as +to require a considerable repair; but from the difficulty of +procuring seasoned wood, so long a time elapsed before it was +effected that we were not ready for sea until the beginning of +September, when other delays of minor importance detained us +until the 25th.</p> +<p>At Port Jackson I found orders from the Lords Commissioners of +the Admiralty to return to England in the Bathurst when the +survey should be completed; but as we were in want of many things +that the colony could not furnish, and as we should be detained +until the month of February before the monsoon would allow of our +going upon the coast; it was deemed most advantageous for the +public service to return without making another voyage. +Accordingly on the 25th September we sailed from Sydney with the +intention of proceeding to the north through Torres Strait, and +calling at the Mauritius on our way; but no sooner had we put to +sea than a hard gale set in from the north which induced me to +bear up and either to go round Van Diemen's Land to the westward, +if the wind should favour such a proceeding, or, by doubling the +south end of New Zealand to make the eastern passage round Cape +Horn.</p> +<p>1822. October 6.</p> +<p>Having reached the south-east end of Van Diemen's Land on the +6th of October, and a fresh north-easterly wind setting in at the +same time, I determined upon adopting the first plan; and +therefore proceeded round the south side of the island, in doing +which I had the opportunity of verifying some observations +formerly taken by which it appeared that the coast between Storm +Bay and the South-west Cape was very erroneously laid down both +by Captain Flinders and the French expeditions under +d'Entrecasteaux and Baudin.</p> +<p>On my voyage to Macquarie Harbour in 1819 I found so many +errors in the bearings that were taken as induced me to suspect +an original error, and on this occasion a very considerable one +was detected.</p> +<p>When Captain Flinders passed round Van Diemen's Land in the +Norfolk he obtained a meridional supplementary altitude of the +sun to the south, his vessel being under the land, which made the +South-west Cape in 43 degrees 29 minutes South; but finding the +next day that his instrument was 2 minutes 40 seconds in error to +the north he assigned to the cape a position of 43 degrees 32 +minutes. In the Introduction to his voyage* he makes some remarks +in a note upon the positions assigned to it by Captains Cook and +Furneaux; the latter officer placed it in 43 degrees 39 minutes, +in which I also found it to be by its transient bearing from the +South Cape. By a series of bearings carried along the coast its +position is thirty-three miles West 3 degrees South true, from +the South Cape.</p> +<blockquote>(*Footnote. Flinders volume 1 Introduction page +179.)</blockquote> +<p>All parts of the coast in this interval are proportionally in +error as to latitude but tolerably well placed in reference to +the coast. The subjoined are the positions now assigned to the +following places, namely:</p> +<p><b>COLUMN 1: NAME OF PLACE.<br> +COLUMN 2: LATITUDE.<br> +COLUMN 3: LONGITUDE ACCORDING TO CAPTAIN FLINDERS' +SURVEY.</b></p> +<p>South Cape : 43 degrees 38 minutes : 146 degrees 56 +minutes.<br> +Mewstone : 43 degrees 46 minutes : 146 degrees 31 1/2 +minutes.<br> +South-west Cape : 43 degrees 39 minutes : 146 degrees 12 +minutes.</p> +The south-east cape of Bruny Island, Tasman's Head, is also +placed too much to the southward in Captain Flinders' chart as +well as in that of Baudin. From the Mermaid it was set in a line +with the south-east cape on the bearing of North 56 degrees East +(the vessel's head being to the eastward); and on this occasion +(the brig's head being to the westward) it bore, when in the same +line, North 53 degrees East. The variation in the latter case was +9 degrees East, but in the former no more than 6 degrees was +allowed, and Captain Flinders found even 4 degrees sufficient. +<p>I passed outside the Mewstone and took its bearing as it came +on with the points of the land between the south-west and the +south-east capes, by which I satisfied myself beyond a doubt of +the correctness of my observations and of the error into which +Captain Flinders had fallen, and which must either be attributed +to the imperfection of his instrument or to his reading off the +altitude 10 minutes in error; and as there is just that +difference between it and the position assigned by Captain +Furneaux, which is also confirmed by my observation, the +probability is in favour of the last conjecture.</p> +<p>After leaving the coast of Van Diemen's Land we had much damp, +unwholesome weather, and a succession of heavy westerly gales, in +which the brig was occasionally much pressed.</p> +<p>1822. November 8-31.</p> +<p>And it was not until the 8th of November that we made Bald +Island, which is to the eastward of King George's Sound. We were +now much in need of a place to caulk the bends, as well as to +repair some temporary damage to the rigging and complete our wood +and water. I therefore seized the opportunity of our being near +the sound and, steering into it, anchored off the sandy bay +within Seal Island and immediately commenced operations. We were +however much delayed by hard westerly gales, which not only +prevented the carpenter's caulking, but also delayed our +watering, since the boat could not pull to the shore; but as the +anchorage was well sheltered we suffered no further inconvenience +than the delay.</p> +<p>A few days after our arrival we were surprised by the +appearance of a strange vessel beating into the sound; she proved +to be an American schooner on a sealing voyage and was coming in +for the purpose of careening and cleaning the vessel's bottom in +Oyster Harbour. The natives also made their appearance and some +of them being our old friends, immediately recognised us.</p> +<p>As there was no wood convenient to our anchorage I moved the +vessel to the entrance of Princess Royal Harbour, near the +northern head of which, at the south end of the long sandy beach, +the trees were growing in abundance close to the beach: it was at +this place also that Captain Flinders obtained his wood; and +excepting the entrance of Oyster Harbour it is the most +convenient place in the whole sound.</p> +<p>Whilst at this last anchorage we were visited by the natives, +many of them strangers; they were accompanied by our old friend +Coolbun, the native that, upon our former visit, was so noisy in +explaining to his companions the effect of the shot that was +fired. On one occasion, when they were on board, an immense shark +was hooked, but broke the hook and escaped, which was a great +disappointment to them, for they evidently anticipated a +luxurious meal. After this they went on shore, when the breeze +blew so fresh as to make some seasick, very much to the amusement +of those who did not suffer, particularly one of the older men. +On this occasion the names of several of the natives were +obtained, which have been inserted with a few additional words at +the end of the list obtained from them during our former visit.* +Our friend Jack did not make his appearance, nor did the natives +at all seem to understand for whom we were enquiring.</p> +<blockquote>(*Footnote. See above.)</blockquote> +<p>As soon as our wood was completed the brig was moved to an +anchorage off the watering bay which proved a more convenient +place than under Seal Island, as it was better sheltered and +nearer to the watering-place. After riding out a heavy gale from +the westward at single anchor without any accident and as soon as +our water was completed, we again anchored for a day under Seal +Island, but were obliged to make two attempts before we succeeded +in getting out to sea.</p> +<p>Whilst at the anchorage off Princess Royal Harbour I went to +Oyster Harbour to procure flowering specimens of a tree which had +hitherto been a subject of much curiosity to botanists: at our +former visits the season was too far advanced; and Mr. Brown was +equally unfortunate. The plant resembles xanthorrhoea, both in +its trunk and leaves, but bears its flower in a very different +manner; for, instead of throwing out one long flower scape, it +produces eighteen or twenty short stalks, each terminated by an +oval head of flowers. I recollected having seen a large grove of +these trees growing at a short distance from the outer beach on +the east side of the entrance of the harbour; and on going there +found the decayed flowers and seeds sufficiently perfect to throw +a considerable light upon this singular plant;* several were +procured and brought to England. A drawing of this tree is given +in the view of King George's Sound in Captain Flinders' account +of the Investigator's voyage.** In the list of the plants +collected by me upon this occasion was a splendid species of +anigosanthus, which proved to be quite new, and had escaped the +observation both of Mr. Brown and of Mr. Cunningham. Living +plants of various genera were also procured: among which were +several of the remarkable Cephalotus follicularis (Brown) which +however alone survived the voyage, and are now growing in the +royal gardens at Kew.</p> +<blockquote>(*Footnote. More perfect specimens were afterwards +collected by Mr. Baxter, and sent, through Mr. Henchman his +employer, to my friend Mr. Brown, the original discoverer of the +tree in Captain Flinders' voyage, and the author of the paper in +the appendix at the end of the volume relating to +it.)</blockquote> +<blockquote>(**Footnote. Flinders volume 1 page 60.)</blockquote> +<p>December 1 to February 9, 1823.</p> +<p>Having effected our departure from King George's Sound we +proceeded on our way towards Simon's Bay at the Cape of Good +Hope, which we reached on the 14th January after a passage of +forty-six days without encountering a gale of wind or the +occurrence of any event worth recording.</p> +<p>February 9 to April 23.</p> +<p>We left Simon's Bay on the 9th of February and, after touching +at St. Helena and Ascension, crossed the line in 22 degrees 6 +minutes West; and on the 7th of April made the Island of Flores, +one of the Azores. On the same morning we fell in with two French +men of war, a frigate and a corvette, who bore down but, upon +showing our colours, hauled their wind and resumed their course +without communicating with us. Between this and the Channel we +were delayed by a succession of northerly winds. The Lizard +Lights were made in the night of the 22nd of April and the +following day we anchored in Plymouth Sound; after an absence of +more than six years.</p> +<p>It may not be considered irrelevant here to make a few brief +observations upon what has been effected by these voyages, and +what yet remains to be done upon the northern coasts of +Australia. Beginning with the north-eastern coast, I have been +enabled to lay down a very safe and convenient track for vessels +bound through Torres Strait, and to delineate the coastline +between Cape Hillsborough, in 20 degrees 54 minutes South, and +Cape York, the north extremity of New South Wales; a distance of +six hundred and ninety miles. As my instructions did not +authorise my delaying to examine any part of this coast I could +not penetrate into the many numerous and extensive openings that +presented themselves in this space; particularly in the +neighbourhoods of Cape Gloucester, Upstart, and Cleveland; where +the intersected and broken appearances of the hills at the back +are matters of interesting enquiry and research.</p> +<p>My instructions at first confined me between Cape Arnhem and +the North-west Cape, but were subsequently extended to the +western coast. The examination of the northern and part of the +north-western coasts, from Wessel Islands to Port George the +Fourth, a distance of seven hundred and ninety miles, has been +carefully made and, with a few exceptions, every opening has been +explored. Those parts in this interval that yet require +examination are some inlets on the south side of Clarence Strait, +and one of more considerable size to the eastward of Cambridge +Gulf, trending in to the south-east: otherways, the coast +comprised within these limits has been sufficiently examined for +all the purposes of navigation.</p> +<p>The coast also between the North-west Cape and Depuch Island, +containing two hundred and twenty miles, has also been +sufficiently explored; but between the latter island and Port +George the Fourth, a distance of five hundred and ten miles, it +yet remains almost unknown. The land that is laid down is nothing +more than an archipelago of islands fronting the mainland, the +situation of which is quite uncertain. Our examinations of these +islands were carried on as far as Cape Villaret, but between that +and Depuch Island the coast has only been seen by the French, who +merely occasionally saw small detached portions of it. At present +however this is conjecture; but the space is of considerable +extent and, if there is an opening into the interior of New +Holland, it is in the vicinity of this part. Off the Buccaneer's +Archipelago the tides are strong and rise to the height of +thirty-six feet. Whatever may exist behind these islands, which +we were prevented by our poverty in anchors and other +circumstances from exploring, there are certainly some openings +of importance; and it is not at all improbable that there may be +a communication at this part with the interior for a considerable +distance from the coast.</p> +<p>The examination of the western coast was performed during an +almost continued gale of wind, so that we had no opportunity of +making any very careful observation upon its shores. There can +however be very little more worth knowing of them, as I apprehend +the difficulty of landing is too great ever to expect to gain +much information; for it is only in Shark's Bay that a vessel can +anchor with safety.</p> +<p>With respect to the subjects of natural history that have been +procured upon the voyage, it is much to be lamented that the +small size of the vessel and our constant professional duties +prevented my extending them. Of quadrupeds we saw but few. Birds +were very numerous but the operation of skinning and preserving +them would have taken up more time than could be afforded. A few +insects, some shells, and a small series of specimens of the +geology of the parts we landed at were among the only things +obtained, excepting the extensive and valuable collection of +plants formed by Mr. Cunningham which are now in the possession +of Mr. Aiton, of the Royal Gardens at Kew; for which +establishment it would seem that they were solely procured. It +was in fact the only department of natural history in which any +pains were taken and for which every assistance was rendered. A +small herbarium was however collected by me, containing nearly +five hundred species: they are in the possession of my respected +friend Aylmer B. Lambert, Esquire, whose scientific attainments +in the field of botany are well and widely known. It is to be +hoped however that the few subjects offered to the scientific +world in the appendix, through the kindness of my friends, will +not be thought uninteresting or unimportant; and that they will +serve to show how very desirable it is to increase the +comparatively slender knowledge that we possess of this extensive +country, which in this respect might still with propriety retain +its ancient name of Terra Australis INCOGNITA.</p> +<p>Whilst this sheet was going through the press accounts were +received at the Admiralty from Captain J.G. Bremer, C.B. of H.M. +Ship Tamar who was despatched by the government in the early part +of last year (1824) to take possession of Arnhem's Land, upon the +north coast of the continent, and to form an establishment upon +the most eligible spot that could be found for a mercantile +depot. Of the proceedings of this expedition the following +particulars have been communicated to me by Lieutenant J.S. Roe, +my former companion and assistant, who was appointed lieutenant +of the Tamar upon her being destined for that service; and which, +as the sequel of the voyage I have been describing, cannot be +deemed irrelevant or uninteresting, since the place fixed upon by +Captain Bremer was discovered during the early part of the said +voyage.*</p> +<blockquote>(*Footnote. See volume 1.)</blockquote> +<p>The Tamar arrived at Port Jackson on the 28th of July, 1824; +when every facility was rendered by the colonial government to +further the object in view. The expedition sailed thence in less +than a month with a detachment of the 3rd regiment and forty-five +convicts, in addition to the party of Royal Marines that had been +embarked before the Tamar left England. The establishment was +placed under the command of Captain Barlow of the 3rd regiment. A +merchant ship, the Countess of Harcourt, was taken up to convey +the stores and provisions, and the Lady Nelson, colonial brig, +was also placed at the disposal of the commandant.</p> +<p>Lieutenant Roe, in describing this voyage to me, writes: "We +had a very favourable passage to the northward, and in less than +three weeks cleared Torres Strait by the route you recommended to +Captain Bremer, without encountering any accident. We +nevertheless saw several shoals that, in our former voyages in +the Mermaid and Bathurst, were not noticed; by reason of the +greater altitude of the Tamar's masthead affording a much more +extensive view on either side of our course." The particulars of +these discoveries of Lieutenant Roe are given in the Appendix, +under the description of the North-East Coast, in the order in +which they occur.</p> +<p>Having cleared Torres Strait the Tamar anchored in Port +Essington. Lieutenant Roe then says, "Having brought the ship to +anchor off Table Point in Port Essington, all the boats were +hoisted out and the marines landed, when, an union-jack being +fixed upon a conspicuous tree near the extremity of the point, +formal possession was taken of the north coast of Australia, +between the meridians of 129 and 136 degrees East of Greenwich. +The marines fired three volleys, and the Tamar a royal salute, +upon the occasion.</p> +<p>"Our first object being to find water, parties were despatched +in various directions for that purpose; but after traversing many +miles of country, and coasting a great deal of the port, only one +place was discovered (the low sandy east point of entrance to +Inner Harbour) where any was to be procured, and it was then only +obtained by digging deep holes in the sand. A large Malay +encampment had recently removed from this spot, leaving their +fireplaces and temporary couches, and large piles of firewood to +season, in readiness for their next visit. No natives were seen, +not even at our old place in Knockers Bay. The adjoining country +was found to be very good forest land, well timbered, but parched +with drought, which was by no means in favour of our views. +Having buried a sealed bottle upon the sandy point, containing an +account of our proceedings, we named it Point Record,* and sailed +at the expiration of two days for Apsley Strait.</p> +<blockquote>(*Footnote. Point Record is the low sandy point on +the left of the picture in the view of Port Essington, volume +1.)</blockquote> +<p>"Light winds retarded our arrival off Cape Van Diemen until +the 24th, and it was not before the 26th that we brought up close +to Luxmoore Head, in St. Asaph Bay. Possession was here taken in +a similar manner and with the same forms as at Port Essington, +and we commenced a strict search for water in every direction in +the neighbourhood of the head, which appeared so desirable and +commanding a position, that it was with great reluctance we +eventually gave up all idea of settling there, on not finding +fresh water in its neighbourhood.</p> +<p>"At the expiration of five or six days a small river and +plenty of water was discovered on Melville Island abreast of +Harris Island; and an eligible situation for the intended new +settlement being discovered near it, the ships were removed +thither on the 2nd of October, and parties landed to commence +immediate operations with the axe and saw. The projection of land +fixed upon for the site of a town, was named after the commandant +(Captain Barlow). The cove in which the ships were at anchor was +named King's Cove by Captain Bremer, after yourself, as the +original discoverer of the strait; and that part of Apsley +Strait, between Luxmoore Head and Harris Island,* received the +name of Port Cockburn, in honour of Vice Admiral Sir George +Cockburn, G.C.B., one of the Lords of the Admiralty.</p> +<blockquote>(*Footnote. Harris Island was named by me after my +friend John Harris, Esquire, formerly surgeon of the 102nd +Regiment, who has served so long and so faithfully in various +offices under the government of New South Wales.)</blockquote> +<center> +<p><a name="king2-09"></a><img alt="" src="images/king2-09.jpg"></p> +<p><b>VIEW OF FORT DUNDAS, TAKEN FROM GARDEN POINT.<br> +CHART OF PORT COCKBURN AT MELVILLE ISLAND.<br> +Plan of Port Cockburn, between Bathurst and Melville Islands.<br> +From a survey made by Lieutenant J.S. ROE in October 1824.<br> +PLAN OF KING'S COVE.</b></p> +</center> +<p>Â </p> +<p>"All disposable hands being employed on shore in clearing +Point Barlow of wood and other impediments, we were speedily +enabled to commence the erection of a fort, seventy-five yards in +length by fifty wide; to be built of the trunks of the felled +trees, and to be surrounded by a ditch ten feet wide and deep. On +the memorable 21st of October, our quarter-deck guns were landed +and mounted, the colours were hoisted for the first time, and the +work was named Fort Dundas, under a royal salute from itself.</p> +<p>"From this time the place began to assume the appearance of a +fortified village; quarters were constructed within the walls of +the fort for the accommodation of the officers belonging to the +establishment, and about thirty huts of various kinds were +erected, and thatched with rushes for the soldiers and convicts. +A deep well was sunk near the fort; a good substantial wharf ran +out into the water; and, as soon as a commissariat storehouse was +finished, all the provisions were landed from the Countess of +Harcourt and secured there.</p> +<p>"The soil in the neighbourhood of the settlement being +exceedingly good, gardens were cleared and laid out, and soon +produced all kinds of vegetables. In our stock we were rather +unfortunate, for of six sheep that were landed for the purpose of +breeding, five died, supposed from the effect produced by eating +some pernicious herb in the woods: pigs, ducks, and fowls seemed +however in a fair way of doing well, and had increased +considerably since they were landed; but great inconvenience was +experienced for want of some horses or draught oxen, which would +not only have materially expedited the work in hand, but would +have spared the men much laborious fatigue and exposure to the +effects of a vertical sun: all difficulties and obstacles were +however met and overcome with the greatest zeal and perseverance, +and the works proceeded with such spirit and alacrity, that we +were enabled to sail for Bombay on the 13th of November, without +exposing the new settlement either to the jealousy of the Malays, +or the mischievous attack of the natives. No traces of the former +people were observed at this place, nor any of the trepang that +would be their sole inducement for visiting it. Not one native +made his appearance before the early part of November when, as if +by signal, a party of about eighteen on each shore communicated +with us on the same day and were very friendly, although +exceedingly suspicious and timid. They would not venture within +the line of the outer hut and always came armed, but laid aside +their spears and clubs whenever friendly signs were made. On the +second day of their visit I was greatly astonished to see amongst +them a young man of about twenty years of age, not darker in +colour than a Chinese but with perfect Malay features and like +all the rest entirely naked: he had daubed himself all over with +soot and grease, to appear like the others, but the difference +was plainly perceptible. On perceiving that he was the object of +our conversation, a certain archness and lively expression came +over his countenance, which a native Australian would have +strained his features in vain to have produced. The natives +appeared to be very fond of him. It seems probable that he must +have been kidnapped when very young, or found while astray in the +woods.*</p> +<blockquote>(*Footnote. At our visit to this place in 1818 and +during our communication with the natives a boy of the above +description was noticed among them; he was brought down upon the +shoulders of one of the Indians, in which position he is +represented in the view. See volume 1.)</blockquote> +<p>"These Indians made repeated signs for hatchets, which they +called paaco-paaco, and although they had stolen two or three on +their first appearance, it was considered desirable to gain their +goodwill by giving them more, and three were accordingly +presented to individuals among them who appeared to be in +authority. They were of course much pleased, but the next day +several axes, knives, and sickles were taken by force from men +employed outside the settlement, upon which they were made to +understand that until these articles were restored no more would +be given. This arrangement being persevered in by us, they +determined upon seizing these implements on every occasion that +presented itself; so that it was found necessary to protect our +working parties in the woods by a guard; the result of which was +that the natives threw their spears whenever resistance was +offered, and the guard was obliged to fire upon the +aggressors.</p> +<p>"Open acts of hostility having now been committed, and the +natives increasing daily in numbers to upwards of one hundred +round the settlement, a good lookout was kept upon them; but not +sufficiently to prevent about sixty of them surprising five of +the marines in a swamp cutting rushes, and throwing their spears +amongst them: their salute was immediately returned, and they +disappeared without any damage having been done on either side; +at the same minute however reports of musketry were heard at our +watering-place and garden and proved to be in repelling an attack +that about forty natives had made upon our jolly-boat watering +and two men cutting grass. One of the natives was shot dead at +ten yards' distance while in the act of throwing his spear; and +our people thought that several others were wounded as they +disappeared making most strange noises, and have not been near us +since. One of the spears thrown upon the last occasion had +sixteen barbs to it but, in general, they were merely scraped to +a sharp point without even one barb, and were not thrown with +anything like precision or good aim, which accounts for none of +their weapons having taken effect, although discharged at our +people at the distance only of a few yards."</p> +<p>Soon after this the Tamar left Fort Dundas for the India +station and despatched the Countess of Harcourt upon her ulterior +destination. The settlement was left in a very forward state and +consisted altogether of one hundred and twenty-six individuals of +whom there were 3 or 4 women and forty-five convicts; the +remainder were composed of detachments of the 3rd regiment (the +Buffs) and of the marines, the latter under the command of +Lieutenant Williamson. The Lady Nelson was left with Commandant +Barlow.</p> +<p>Such is the state of the settlement of Fort Dundas, which at +some future time must become a place of considerable consequence +in the eastern world. The soil and climate of Melville and +Bathurst Islands are capable of growing all the valuable +productions of the East, particularly spices, and many other +equally important articles of trade: it is conveniently placed +for the protection of ships passing to our Indian possessions +from Port Jackson, and admirably situated for the purposes of +mercantile speculation.</p> +<p>Such, then, are the first fruits of the voyages I have had the +honour to direct. Much, however, of the coast yet remains to be +examined; and although, for the general purposes of navigation, +it has been quite sufficiently explored, yet there are many +spaces upon the chart left blank that would be highly interesting +to examine and really important to know. We have but a slight +knowledge also of the natural history of the continent; slight +however as it is, no country has ever produced a more +extraordinary assemblage of indigenous productions; no country +has proved richer than Australia in every branch of natural +history; and it has besides, this advantage, that as the greater +part is yet entirely unknown, so much the more does it excite the +interest of the geographer and naturalist.</p> +<p>The examination of its vast interior can only be performed by +degrees: want of navigable rivers will naturally impede such a +task, but all these difficulties will be gradually overcome by +the indefatigable zeal of our countrymen, of whose researches in +all parts of the world the present times teem with such numerous +examples.</p> +<p><a name="appendixA"></a></p> +<h3>APPENDIX A.</h3> +<p>Previously to entering into the detail of the following +coast-directions, in which it has been attempted, for the sake of +a more easy reference, to collect all the nautical information +under one general head, it may be proper to premise that Captain +Flinders, in the account of his voyage,* has given two very +useful chapters upon the winds and weather that may be +experienced upon the various coasts of this continent; as well as +information respecting its general navigation and particular +sailing-directions for the outer passage from Port Jackson +through Torres Strait, by entering the reefs at Murray Island. +From these chapters Captain Horsburgh has arranged, in his +valuable work on the Hydrography etc. of the Indian Ocean, a set +of sailing-directions and other nautical information** that will +be found useful for the navigation of the southern and eastern +coasts of this continent.</p> +<blockquote>(*Footnote. Volume 1 book 1 chapter 11 and volume 2 +book 2 chapter 11.)</blockquote> +<blockquote>(**Footnote. Horsburgh's Indian Directory volume 2 +pages 493 and 515.)</blockquote> +<hr align="center" width="20%"> +<h4>APPENDIX A. SECTION 1.</h4> +<p align="center">OF THE WINDS AND CURRENTS, AND DESCRIPTION OF +THE PORTS, ISLANDS, AND COAST BETWEEN PORT JACKSON AND BREAKSEA +SPIT.</p> +<p>EAST COAST.</p> +<p>The south-east trade cannot be said to blow home upon that +part of the coast of New South Wales, which lies between Breaksea +Spit and Port Jackson, except during the summer months when winds +from that quarter prevail and often blow very hard; they are then +accompanied by heavy rains and very thick weather: generally +however from October to April they assume the character of a +sea-breeze and, excepting during their suspension by +south-easterly or westerly gales, are very regular. In the month +of December strong south-easterly gales are not uncommon; and in +February and March they are very frequent.</p> +<p>In the month of December hot winds from the north-west will +sometimes last for two or three days, and are almost always +suddenly terminated by a gust of wind from the southward. The +most prevailing winds, during all seasons, are from the south, +and are probably oftener from the eastward of that point than +from the westward. The current always sets to the southward, and +has been found by us on several occasions to set the strongest +during a South-East gale. The general course of the current is in +the direction of the coast, but this is not constant; for, +between Port Stevens and to the southward of Port Jackson, it +sometimes sets in towards it. In a gale from the South-East in +the month of December 1820, it must have been setting as much to +the westward as South-West. This should be attended to, +particularly in south-easterly gales, and an offing preserved to +provide against the wind's veering to East-South-East and East by +South, which is often the case; and then the current, setting +upon the weather-bow, will place the vessel, in a dark night, in +considerable danger. The rate of the current is generally about +one mile per hour, but it sometimes though rarely runs at the +rate of nearly three knots.</p> +<p>To the eastward in the space between New South Wales and New +Caledonia the current sets to the North-West, which carries a +great body of water into the bight between the former and New +Guinea; but as Torres Strait offers but a very inconsiderable +outlet the stream is turned, and sets to the southward until it +gradually joins the easterly current which, from the prevalence +of westerly winds, is constantly running between Van Diemen's +Land and Cape Horn.</p> +<p>The tides in this interval are of little consequence and in +few places rise higher than six feet at the springs, excepting +where they are affected by local circumstances.</p> +<p>There are but few places of shelter upon the east coast +between Port Jackson and Breaksea Spit: Captain Flinders points +out Broken Bay, Port Hunter for small craft, Port Stephens, Shoal +Bay for vessels not exceeding fifty tons, and Glass House +(Moreton) Bay. There are however other anchorages that might be +resorted to in the event of being thrown upon a lee shore, which +are equally good with Port Hunter, Shoal Bay, and Glass House +Bay.</p> +<p>There is an anchorage behind Black Head to the north of Point +Stevens which Lieutenant Oxley discovered to be an island; Port +Macquarie also affords shelter for small vessels; and on the +north side of Smoky Cape there is good shelter from southerly or +south-easterly winds: but the whole of these, excepting Broken +Bay, are only attainable by small vessels. A large ship must keep +an offing; and as the coast is not at all indented the wind must +blow very hard, and the ship sail very badly, to be placed in +danger. Wide Bay however is a very good port, and affords a safe +and secure shelter; the anchorage being protected by a reef which +fronts it.</p> +<p>PORT JACKSON.</p> +<p>The Lighthouse, or Macquarie Tower, is in latitude 33 degrees +51 minutes 11 seconds South and longitude 4 minutes 29.8 seconds +east of Sir Thomas Brisbane's Observatory at Sydney, or 151 +degrees 19 minutes 45 seconds East of Greenwich. It is a +revolving light and may be seen at the distance of ten leagues. +The Inner South Head bears from it North 20 degrees West* and is +distant about two thousand five hundred yards. The North Head +bears from the Inner South Head North 53 degrees East by compass, +about two thousand four hundred and forty yards; and the +narrowest part of the entrance, which is between the Inner North +and South Heads, is a little more than eight hundred yards, so +that there is abundance of room to work in should the wind blow +out of the Port. On arriving off the lighthouse, steer in between +the North and South Heads until you are past the line of bearing +of the Outer North, and the Inner South Heads: then haul round +the latter, but avoid a reef of rocks that extends for two +hundred yards off the point, and steer for Middle Head, a +projecting cliff at the bottom of the bay, until the harbour +opens round the Inner South Head; you may then pass on either +side of the Sow and Pigs; but the eastern channel, although the +narrowest, is perhaps the best; but this, in a great measure, +depends upon the direction of the wind. The eastern channel is +the deepest. The Sow and Pigs, or Middle Ground, is the only +danger in Port Jackson: it is a bank of sand and rocks, of about +eight hundred yards in length, by about three hundred and fifty +in breadth: its length being in the direction of the harbour; a +very small portion of it is dry, and consists of a few rocks, +upon which the sea almost always breaks; they are situated upon +the outer end of the shoal, and are in the line of bearing of the +Outer North and the Inner South Heads. The south-western tail of +the bank is chiefly of sand, with rocks scattered about it; but, +on the greater portion of it, there is twelve feet water; it +gradually deepens to three and a quarter fathoms, which is beyond +the rocky limits of the shoal. To sail through the Western +Channel, which is from one-third to half a mile wide, steer +towards George's Head, a high rocky head, about three quarters of +a mile above Middle Head, keeping it in sight upon the larboard +bow, and the sea horizon open between the points of entrance, +until you are within the line of bearing between a small sandy +beach on the western shore and Green Point; the latter is a +grassy mound, the south head of Camp Cove. Then steer for +George's Head, and gradually round it: when you have passed the +line of bearing between it and Green Point, and opened the sandy +beach of Watson's Bay, steer boldly up the harbour. In rounding +Point Bradley, there is a rocky shelf that runs off the point for +perhaps one hundred yards. Pass on either side of Pinch-gut +Island, and, in hauling into Sydney Cove, avoid a rocky reef that +extends off Point Bennelong for rather more than two hundred +yards into the sea.</p> +<p>To sail through the Eastern Channel, or to the eastward of the +Sow and Pigs, haul round the Inner South Head until the summit of +the Inner North Head is in a line with the inner trend of the +former, bearing by compass North 23 1/2 degrees East; then steer +South-South-West until you have passed Green Point, when the +course may be directed at pleasure up the harbour.</p> +<p>In turning to windward, go no nearer to the Sow and Pigs than +three and a quarter fathoms, unless your vessel is small; nor +within two hundred yards of the shore, for although it is bold in +most parts close to, yet there are some few straggling rocks off +the south point of Watson's Bay, and also some round Shark's +Island. There is good anchorage in all parts of the harbour, when +within Middle and the South Heads. There is also anchorage in +North Harbour, but not to be recommended, for the swell sometimes +rolls into the mouth of the harbour; no swell can, however, +affect the anchorage between Middle Head and the Sow and +Pigs.</p> +<p>SYDNEY COVE is nearly half a mile deep, and four hundred yards +wide, and will contain more than twenty ships swinging at their +moorings. The shores are bold to, and, excepting the rocky shoals +that extend off Point Bennelong and Point Dawes, ships may +approach very near.</p> +<p>On the eastern side of the cove is a convenient place for +heaving down: it belongs to the government, but merchant ships +may use it, by paying a small sum according to the length of time +it is engaged. Wood and water are easily obtained from the north +shore of the port; the former may be cut close to the beach; the +latter is collected in tanks, and, excepting during a very dry +season, is always abundant.</p> +<p>The tide rises occasionally at the springs as much as eight +feet, but six feet is the general rise; it is high water at +Sydney Cove at half past eight o'clock, but at the heads, it +precedes this time by a quarter of an hour. The variation of the +magnetic needle observed on shore by Lieutenant Roe:</p> +<p>at Sydney Cove in 1822, to be 8 degrees 42 minutes East,<br> +at Garden Island 9 degrees 6 minutes East,<br> +at Camp Cove 9 degrees 42 minutes East.</p> +<p>As all navigators are, or ought to be, supplied with Captain +Horsburgh's Indian Directory, it has not been thought necessary +to descant further upon the nature of the winds and currents of +the east coast; since this subject has been so fully treated +upon, in the above valuable book, in the section that commences +at page 501.</p> +<p>Captain Horsburgh has also described the entrance of Botany +Bay at page 502, and of Broken Bay, at page 505. According to +Lieutenant Jeffreys, R.N., who commanded the hired armed +transport Kangaroo, the latter harbour has a bar stretching +across from the south to the north head, on which there is not +less than five fathoms water.</p> +<p>PORT HUNTER is situated fifty-nine miles North 22 degrees East +(true) from the entrance of Port Jackson. There is a lighthouse +at its southern entrance, and pilots are established who come off +to vessels that arrive. The entrance is round the Nobby (latitude +32 degrees 56 minutes, longitude 151 degrees 43 1/4 minutes) an +insulated rock: and the passage is indicated by keeping two +lights, that are placed at a distance from each other at the +wharf, in a line: the anchorage is about two hundred yards from +the wharf in three fathoms. The shoals on the west side are +dangerous, and several vessels have been wrecked upon them in +going in. The above information is from a plan drawn by +Lieutenant Jeffreys, in the Hydrographical Office at the +Admiralty: it was drawn in the year 1816; since which a portion +of the labour of the convicts has been employed in building a +breakwater, or pier, from the south entrance to the Nobby Rock, +which will tend to direct the stream of tide through the channel, +and also protect it from the surf and swell, which, during a +south-east gale, must render the harbour of dangerous access. The +town was formerly called King's Town, but it has since been +changed to that of Newcastle, and the appellation of the Coal +River has partly superseded the more legitimate name of Port +Hunter.</p> +<p>PORT STEPHENS is easy to enter, but not to sail from, unless +the wind is fair, on account of the shoals that are near its +entrance. Point Stephens is in latitude 32 degrees 46 1/2 +minutes, longitude 152 degrees 9 minutes 45 seconds.</p> +<p>BLACK HEAD is an island, behind which there is very good +anchorage; the head is in latitude 32 degrees 38 minutes 20 +seconds. Between Black Head, and the hills called the Brothers, +are WALLIS' Lake, in latitude 32 degrees 11 minutes 50 seconds, +HARRINGTON'S Lake, in 32 degrees 0 minutes, and FARQUHAR'S Lake, +in latitude 31 degrees 54 minutes; they were discovered by +Lieutenant Oxley on his return from his land journey in 1819; +they have all shoal entrances, and are merely the outlets of +extensive lagoons, which receive the streams from the hills, and +occupy a considerable space between the coast and the +mountains.</p> +<p>In latitude 31 degrees 47 minutes 50 seconds, and at the +distance of two miles and a quarter from the shore, is a +dangerous reef, on which the sea constantly breaks; it was named +by Lieutenant Oxley, who discovered it, the MERMAID'S REEF; it is +about a quarter of a mile in extent, and bears South 85 degrees +East from the South Brother; a small detached portion of the reef +is separated from the principal rock, within which there appeared +to be a narrow navigable channel. A quarter of a mile without the +latter we found sixteen fathoms water. Round the point under the +North Brother Hill, is CAMDEN HAVEN, the particulars respecting +its entrance (in latitude 31 degrees 41 minutes, longitude 152 +degrees) are not yet known, but it is supposed to be very +shoal.</p> +<p>PORT MACQUARIE is the embouchure or the River Hastings; its +entrance is about two miles and two-thirds to the +North-North-West of Tacking Point. It is a bar harbour, and, like +Port Hunter, is of dangerous access, on account of the banks of +sand that project from the low north sandy point of entrance, on +which the sea breaks and forms sand rollers; these however serve +to indicate the edge of the channel, which is about ninety yards +wide. The south shore extends in a North-North-West direction +from Tacking Point to Green Mound (a remarkable conical shaped +hillock) whence the south shore of the entrance trends in nearly +a west direction to the narrow entrance opposite Pelican +Point.</p> +<p>Between Green Mound and the next projection the bar stretches +across towards the sand rollers, and is about one hundred and +twenty yards in extent.</p> +<p>The deepest channel over it is within thirty yards of two +sunken rocks, the outermost of which bears from Green Mound North +45 degrees West (true) or North 55 degrees West, nine hundred +yards. When Green Mound Point and the next point to the southward +of it are in a line, you are within a few yards of the shoalest +part of the bar. After passing the bar, there are from two to +four fathoms water. Since the examination of this harbour, a +penal settlement has been formed, and a pilot appointed to +conduct vessels in and out. Off the entrance is a high rocky +islet, the Nobby, within which the channel is shoal and dangerous +to pass. There is good anchorage in four, five, or six fathoms, +about half a mile outside of the bar, on a bank of sand, which +gradually deepens for three miles to fourteen fathoms, upon any +part of which a vessel may anchor to await high water.</p> +<p>Latitude of its entrance 31 degrees 25 minutes 32 seconds +South.<br> +Longitude 152 degrees 57 minutes 25 seconds East.<br> +Variation of the compass 10 degrees 11 minutes 0 seconds +East.<br> +High water at full and change 8 hours 56 minutes.<br> +Tide rises four to five feet.</p> +<p>The south-east trend of SMOKY CAPE is in latitude 30 degrees +55 minutes 40 seconds, longitude 153 degrees 4 minutes 30 +seconds.</p> +<p>TRIAL BAY, so named by Lieutenant Oxley, who anchored in it on +a second expedition to examine Port Macquarie previous to its +being settled, is a convenient roadstead during southerly winds: +it is situated on the north side of Smoky Cape, and affords an +anchorage in three fathoms, protected from the sea as far as +North-East by East. Fresh water may be procured from a stream +that runs over the beach. Four miles to the north of Smoky Cape +is an inlet having a bar harbour, on which there is but eight +feet water.</p> +<p>SHOAL BAY is the next harbour to the northward: the following +description of it is from Captain Flinders (Flinders' Terra +Australis, Introduction, cxcv.)</p> +<p>"On the south side of the entrance, which is the deepest, +there is ten feet at low water; and within side the depth is from +two to four fathoms, in a channel near the south shore: the rest +of the bar is mostly occupied by shoals, over which boats can +scarcely pass when the tide is out. High water appeared to take +place about seven hours after the moon's passage; at which time a +ship not drawing more than fourteen feet might venture in, if +severely pressed. Shoal Bay is difficult to be found except by +its latitude, which is 29 degrees 26 1/2 minutes, but there is on +the low land about four leagues to the southward, a small hill +somewhat peaked, which may serve as a mark to vessels coming from +that direction."</p> +<p>CAPE BYRON, in latitude 28 degrees 38 minutes 10 seconds, +longitude 153 degrees 37 minutes 20 seconds. MOUNT WARNING is in +latitude 28 degrees 24 minutes, longitude 153 degrees 12 +minutes.</p> +<p>THE TWEED is a river communicating with the sea by a bar, on +which there is twelve feet water, it is situated about a mile and +a half to the north of a small island off Point Danger, which +lies in latitude 28 degrees 8 minutes.</p> +<p>In latitude 28 degrees there is a communication with the inlet +at the south side of Moreton Bay, insulating the land whose north +extremity is Point Lookout. The entrance of this inlet is shoal +and only passable for boats.</p> +<p>MORETON BAY.* In addition to the account of this bay by +Captain Flinders,** Lieutenant Oxley has lately discovered the +Brisbane, a very fine fresh water river that falls into it in 27 +degrees 25 minutes latitude, abreast of the strait between +Moreton Island and Point Lookout.</p> +<blockquote>(*Footnote. This bay was originally called Glass +House Bay, in allusion to the name given by Captain Cook to three +remarkable glass house-looking hills near Pumice-stone River; but +as Captain Cook bestowed the name of Moreton Bay upon the strait +to the south of Moreton Island, that name has a prior claim, and +is now generally adopted. A penal settlement has lately been +formed at Red Cliff Point, which is situated a little to the +north of the embouchure of the Brisbane River.)</blockquote> +<blockquote>(*Footnote. Flinders Introduction +cxcvi.)</blockquote> +<p>WIDE BAY, the entrance of which is in latitude 25 degrees 49 +minutes, was examined by Mr. Edwardson, the master of one of the +government colonial vessels; he found it to be a good port, +having in its entrance a channel of not less than three fathoms +deep; and to communicate with Hervey's Bay, thus making an island +of the Great Sandy Peninsula.</p> +<p>INDIAN HEAD is in latitude 25 degrees 1 minute, and longitude +153 degrees 23 minutes.</p> +<hr align="center" width="20%"> +<h4>APPENDIX A. SECTION 2.</h4> +<p align="center">DESCRIPTION OF THE WINDS AND WEATHER, AND OF +THE PORTS, ISLANDS, AND COAST BETWEEN BREAKSEA SPIT AND CAPE +YORK.</p> +<p>NORTH-EAST COAST.</p> +<p>The south-east trade is occasionally suspended near the shore +by north-easterly winds during the months of June, July, and +August, the only season that I have any experience of the winds +and weather upon the north-east coast; the weather is generally +thick and cloudy, and often accompanied with showers of rain, +particularly during the two first months.</p> +<p>In the neighbourhood of Breaksea Spit in May, 1819, we +experienced a fresh gale from the westward, after which it veered +to south-east with thick rainy weather: and in the neighbourhood +of Cape Capricorn, in June, 1821, we had a fresh gale from the +north-east. Among the Northumberland Islands, we have experienced +westerly winds, but they blew in light breezes with fine weather. +Even as far as Cape Grafton the wind cannot be said to be steady. +To the north of this point, however, the winds are always +constant from the southward, and seldom or ever veer to the +westward of south, or to the eastward of South-East by East; they +generally are from South-South-East: fresh winds cause the +weather to be hazy, and sometimes bring rain, which renders the +navigation among the reefs in some degree dangerous. In my last +voyage up the coast, on approaching Cape York, the weather was so +thick that we could not see more than a quarter of a mile ahead; +we, however, ran from reef to reef, and always saw them in +sufficient time to alter the course if we were in error. In such +a navigation cloudy dull weather is, however, rather an advantage +than otherwise, because the reefs, from the absence of the glare +of the sun, are more distinctly seen, particularly in the +afternoon, when the sun is to the westward. Later in the season +(August 1820) we had more settled weather, for the wind seldom +veered to the southward of South-South-East, or eastward of +East-South-East; and this weather accompanied us from Breaksea +Spit, through Torres Strait.</p> +<p>The best time for passing up this coast is in April and the +beginning of May, or between the middle of August and latter end +of October; in the months of June and July, the passage is not +apparently so safe, on account of the changeable weather that may +be encountered, which to a stranger would create much anxiety, +although no real danger. Strict attention to these directions and +confidence in the chart, with a cautious lookout will, however, +neutralize all the dangers that thick weather may produce in this +navigation.</p> +<p>The tides and currents in this part are not of much +consequence. The rise of tide is trifling, the flood-tide sets to +the North-West, but at a very slow rate. In the neighbourhood of +the reefs, the stream sometimes sets at the rate of a knot or in +some cases at two knots, but for a small distance it is scarcely +perceptible. There appeared rather to be a gentle drain of +current to the North-West.</p> +<p>HERVEY'S BAY and BUSTARD BAY have been already described by +Captains Cook and Flinders. We did not enter either, so that I +have nothing to offer in addition to the valuable information of +those navigators (Hawkesworth volume 3 page 113 and 117; and +Flinders Introduction cci. and volume 2 page 9 et seq.)</p> +<p>LADY ELLIOT'S ISLAND is a low islet, covered with shrubs and +trees, and surrounded by a coral reef, which extends for +three-quarters of a mile from its north-east end; the island is +not more than three-quarters of a mile long, and about a quarter +of a mile broad; it is dangerous to approach at night, from being +very low. It is situated thirty miles North 53 degrees West +(magnetic) from the extremity of Breaksea Spit (as laid down in +Captain Flinders' chart); its latitude is 24 degrees 6 minutes, +and its longitude 152 degrees 45 minutes 15 seconds.</p> +<p>BUNKER'S GROUP consists of three islets; they are low and +wooded like Lady Elliot's Island, and lie South-East and +North-West from each other; the south-easternmost (or 1st) has a +coral reef projecting for two miles and a half to the North-East: +four miles and a half to the North-West of the north-westernmost +(or 3rd islet) is a large shoal, which, from the heavy breakers +upon it, is probably a part of the barrier or outer reefs. The +centre island (or 2nd) of the group is in latitude 23 degrees 51 +minutes 10 seconds, and longitude 152 degrees 19 minutes 5 +seconds. Off the south-west end of the 2nd island is a small +detached islet connected to it by a reef; and off the north-east +end of the 3rd island is another islet, also connected by a coral +reef.</p> +<p>The spaces between these islands, which are more than a league +wide, are quite free from danger: we passed within a quarter of a +mile of the south end of the reef off the 3rd island, without +getting bottom with ten fathoms.</p> +<p>RODD'S BAY, a small harbour on the west side of the point to +the northward of Bustard Bay, offers a good shelter for vessels +of one hundred and fifty tons burden. The channel lies between +two sandbanks, which communicate with either shore. In hauling +round the point, steer for Middle Head, a projecting rocky point +covered with trees, keeping the centre of it in the bearing of +about South (magnetic); you will then carry first five, then six +and seven fathoms: when you are abreast of the north low sandy +point, you have passed the sandbank on the eastern side, the +extremity of which bears from the point West 1/4 North about one +mile: then haul in East by South, and anchor at about one-third +of a mile from the low sandy point bearing North.</p> +<p>In hauling round this point, you must not shoalen your water, +on the south side, to less than four fathoms, as the sandbank +projects for a mile and a quarter from Middle Head. In the centre +of the channel, between Sandy Point and Middle Head, and at about +one third of a mile from the former, you will have seven, eight, +and nine fathoms water, until it bears North by East when it +shoals to five fathoms. The situation of the extremity of the low +sandy point upon Captain Flinders' chart (East Coast sheet 3) is +in latitude 23 degrees 59 minutes 45 seconds, and longitude 151 +degrees 34 minutes 45 seconds. High water takes place at eight +hours and a half after the moon's transit.</p> +<p>In standing into Rodd's Bay, the water does not shoalen until +you are in a line with the north points of Facing Island and +Bustard Bay.</p> +<p>There is a run of fresh water in the bay to the eastward of +the low sandy point, but it was not thought to be a durable +stream. Wood may be cut close to the beach, and embarked without +impediment.</p> +<p>PORT BOWEN. Captain Flinders, in his account of this port, has +merely confined himself to the anchorage under Entrance Island +(latitude 22 degrees 29 minutes, longitude 150 degrees 45 minutes +30 seconds) which is, at best, but an exposed roadstead. The +channel in, on the north side of the island, is free from danger, +but, on the south side, between it and Cape Clinton, there is an +extensive shoal on which the sea breaks heavily: it was not +ascertained whether it is connected with the bank off the south +end of the island, but there is every probability of it. The +inlet round Cape Clinton affords good anchorage: but in the +mid-channel the depth is as much as eighteen fathoms; the sands +on the western side of the inlet are steep to, and should be +avoided, for the tide sweeps upon them. The best anchorage is in +the sandy bay round the inner trend of the cape (latitude 22 +degrees 31 minutes 40 seconds, longitude 150 degrees 44 minutes) +where both wood and water are convenient. In steering in from +sea, haul round the cape, and pass about half to three-quarters +of a mile to the north of the high round island, in seven +fathoms, avoiding the sandbanks on either side. In passing the +inner trend of the cape, the water will shoal to three and +three-quarter fathoms, but do not approach too near the point. +When you have opened the inlet, steer in, and, having passed the +inner cape, haul in to a sandy bay on the eastern side, where you +may anchor in eight or nine fathoms at pleasure.</p> +<p>The centre of the shoal in the middle of the port bears North +1/4 East by compass, from the high round island, and North by +West 1/4 West when in a line with Entrance Island.</p> +<p>High water appears to take place half an hour later than at +Entrance Island, or about 10 hours 40 minutes after the moon's +southing (the moon's age being thirteen days). The tide did not +rise more than six feet, but it wanted three days to the springs. +Captain Flinders supposes the spring tides to rise not less than +fifteen feet. The variation of the compass was 9 degrees 5 +minutes East, off Cape Clinton, but at Entrance Island, according +to Captain Flinders, it was 7 degrees 40 minutes East.</p> +<p>NORTHUMBERLAND ISLANDS. In the direction of North 8 degrees +East (magnetic) and five miles and a half from the 3rd Island, is +a low rock which, at high water, is very little above the surface +of the sea; it is very dangerous because it is in the direct +track of vessels steering towards the Percy Isles. It escaped the +observation of Captain Flinders.</p> +<p>In the direction of South 42 degrees West (magnetic) and ten +miles from the west end of Percy Island Number 1, are some rocks, +but I am not aware whether they are covered: they were seen by +Lieutenant Jefferies in 1815.</p> +<p>Another patch of dry rocks was seen by me from the summit of a +hill at the west end of Percy Island Number 1, whence they bore +South 60 degrees West (magnetic) and were supposed to be distant +about eight or nine miles. The variation of the compass here is +between 7 and 8 degrees East.</p> +<p>The PERCY ISLES have also been described by Captain Flinders; +the bay at the west end of Number 1 is of very steep approach and +not safe to anchor in, excepting during a south-east wind: the +anchorage at Number 2, inside the Pine Islets, is bad, since the +bottom is rocky; the ground is, however, clearer more to the +southward; on the whole this anchorage is not insecure, since +there is a safe passage out either on the north or south sides of +the Pine Islets. Wood may be procured with facility, and water +also, unless the streams fail in the dry season. Captain Flinders +was at these islands at the latter end of September, and found it +abundant. The flood-tide comes from the north-east; at the +anchorage in the channel, between the pine islets and Number 2, +the flood sets to the south, and the ebb to the north; the +maximum rate was one and a quarter knot. High water occurred at +the latter place two hours and a half before the moon's passage; +but on the following day did not precede it more than one hour +and a half. Captain Flinders mentions high water taking place on +shore at eight hours after the moon's passage. (Vide Flinders +volume 2 page 82.) The tide rose twelve feet when the moon was +thirteen days old. The north-west end of Number 1 is in latitude +21 degrees 44 minutes 50 seconds, longitude 150 degrees 16 +minutes 40 seconds; south-west end of Number 2 is in latitude 21 +degrees 40 minutes 50 seconds, longitude 150 degrees 13 +minutes.</p> +<p>In passing SHOAL POINT, in latitude 21 degrees 0 minutes 5 +seconds, longitude 149 degrees 7 minutes 40 seconds, Captain +Cook's ship got into shoal water, and at one time had as little +as three fathoms (Hawkesworth volume 3 page 131); and the +merchant ship Lady Elliot, in the year 1815, met with a sandbank +extending from the island off the point in a north-east direction +for ten miles, on one part of which she found only nine feet +water.</p> +<p>The Mermaid passed the point at the distance of three miles, +and, when the island bore South 68 degrees West, distant two +miles and a half, had four and three-quarter fathoms, which was +the least water that was found, but, being then high water, five +or six feet, if not more, may be deducted, to reduce it to the +proper low water sounding. There was no appearance of shoaler +water near us, and it is probable that Captain Cook's and the +Lady Elliot's tracks were farther off shore. The variation of the +compass, six miles east of Point Slade, was 7 degrees 11 minutes +East.</p> +<p>CAPE HILLSBOROUGH is a projection terminating in a bluff point +in latitude 20 degrees 53 minutes 40 seconds, and longitude 149 +degrees 0 minutes 15 seconds: being high land, it may be seen +seven or eight leagues off. The variation here is 6 degrees 30 +minutes East.</p> +<p>The CUMBERLAND ISLES extend between the parallels of 20 and 21 +degrees 6 minutes, and consist generally of elevated, rocky +islands; they are all abundantly wooded, particularly with pines, +which grow to a larger size than at the Percy Isles. We did not +land upon any of them; they appeared to be of bold approach, and +not dangerous to navigate amongst; they are from six to eight +hundred feet high, and some of the peaks on the northern island +are much higher.</p> +<p>k l (latitude 21 degrees 5 minutes 40 seconds, longitude 149 +degrees 54 minutes 25 seconds) is about three-quarters of a mile +in diameter; it is of peaked shape; at three-quarters of a mile +off its south-east end there is a dry rocky lump.</p> +<p>k (latitude 21 degrees 0 minutes, longitude 149 degrees 52 +minutes 30 seconds) is nearly a mile and a quarter in diameter, +and has a considerable reef stretching for more than a mile and a +half off both its north-west and south-east ends; on the latter +is a small rocky islet.</p> +<p>k 2 (in latitude 20 degrees 58 minutes, longitude 149 degrees +44 minutes 55 seconds) is of hummocky shape; it has also a reef +off its south-east and north-west ends, stretching off at least a +mile. On the south-east reef is a dry rocky islet.</p> +<p>THREE ROCKS, in latitude 20 degrees 56 1/4 minutes, are small +islets of moderate height. All these islands are surrounded by +deep water. The variation here is about 6 3/4 degrees East.</p> +<p>k 4, in latitude 20 degrees 53 minutes 10 seconds, and k 4 +1/2, in latitude 20 degrees 58 minutes, and the two sandy islets +to the westward of them, were seen only at a distance.</p> +<p>l, in latitude 20 degrees 51 minutes 10 seconds, l 1, in +latitude 20 degrees 54 minutes 10 seconds, containing two +islands, l 3, in latitude 20 degrees 44 minutes l5 seconds, and l +4, in latitude 20 degrees 45 minutes 30 seconds, are also high, +but we were not nearer to them than six or seven miles; l 2, in +latitude 20 degrees 45 minutes 40 seconds, longitude 149 degrees +33 minutes 55 seconds, is the island on which Captain Flinders +landed, and describes in volume 2 page 94; he says, "This little +island is of triangular shape, and each side of it is a mile +long; it is surrounded by a coral reef. The time of high water +took place ONE HOUR before the moon's passage, as it had done +among the barrier reefs; from ten to fifteen feet seemed to be +the rise by the shore, and the flood came from the northward." +The variation near l 2 is 6 degrees 17 minutes East.</p> +<p>m is a high, bluff island, the peaked summit of which, in +latitude 20 degrees 46 minutes 35 seconds and longitude 149 +degrees 15 minutes 15 seconds, is eight hundred and seventy-four +feet high: there are several islets off its south-east end, and +one off its north-west end.</p> +<p>SIR JAMES SMITH'S GROUP consists of ten or twelve distinct +islands, and perhaps as many more, for we were not within twelve +miles of them. On the principal island is LINNE PEAK, in latitude +20 degrees 40 minutes 30 seconds, and longitude 149 degrees 9 +minutes 10 seconds; it is seven or eight hundred feet high.</p> +<p>SHAW'S PEAK, in latitude 20 degrees 28 minutes, longitude 149 +degrees 2 minutes 55 seconds, is on a larger island than any to +the southward; it is sixteen hundred and one feet high. The group +consists of several islands; it is separated from the next to the +northward by a channel five miles wide. In the centre is +PENTECOST ISLAND, a remarkable rock, rising abruptly out of the +sea to the height of eleven hundred and forty feet. Its latitude +is 20 degrees 23 minutes 10 seconds, and longitude 148 degrees 59 +minutes 30 seconds.</p> +<p>The northern group of the Cumberland Islands are high, and +appear to be better furnished with wood, and more fertile than +the southern groups, particularly on their western sides.</p> +<p>The principal peak, in latitude 29 degrees 15 minutes 10 +seconds and longitude 148 degrees 55 minutes, is fifteen hundred +and eighty-four feet high, and is situated on the largest island, +which is ten miles long, and from three to nine broad: it has +several bays on either side, and off its south-eastern end are +four small islands: beyond them is a range of rocky islets. The +northernmost island of this range is the extremity of the +Cumberland Islands, as well as the north-eastern limit of +Whitsunday Passage; it forms a high, bluff point, in latitude 20 +degrees 0 minutes, and longitude 148 degrees 50 minutes 30 +seconds, and is of bold approach: on the western side of the +island are some low islets.</p> +<p>REPULSE BAY is a deep bight: its shores are low, but the hills +rise to a great height. The extremity of the bay was not +distinctly traced, but it is probable, upon examining it, that a +fresh-water rivulet may be found; and there may be a +communication with Edgecumbe Bay.</p> +<p>The Repulse Isles are of small size; they are surrounded by +rocks, which do not extend more than a quarter of a mile from +them. The summit of the largest island is in latitude 20 degrees +37 minutes 5 seconds, and longitude 148 degrees 50 minutes 30 +seconds. Variation 6 degrees 15 minutes East.</p> +<p>Between Capes Conway and Hillsborough the flood-tide comes +from the north-eastward, but is very irregular in the direction +of the stream. At an anchorage off the island near the latter +cape the tide rose twelve feet, but close to the Repulse Isles, +the rise was eighteen feet. At the former place, the moon being +full, high water took place at about three-quarters past ten +o'clock; by an observation the next day at the latter, it was a +quarter of an hour later: the maximum rate was about one and a +half knot.</p> +<p>WHITSUNDAY PASSAGE, formed by the northern group of the +Cumberland Islands, is from three to six miles wide, and, with +the exception of a small patch or rocks within a quarter of a +mile from Cape Conway, and a sandbank (that is probably dry, or +nearly so at low water) off Round Head, is free from danger. The +shores appear to be bold to, and the depth, in the fairway, +varies between twenty and thirty fathoms; the shoal off Round +Head stretches in a North-North-West direction, but its extent +was not ascertained.</p> +<p>In steering through the strait, particularly during the +flood-tide, this shoal should be avoided by keeping well over to +the east shore; for the tide there sets across the strait; it is +about a mile and a half from Round Head, in which space the water +is ten and fourteen fathoms deep.</p> +<p>Between Round Head (in latitude 20 degrees 28 minutes 30 +seconds) and Cape Conway is a bay, where there appeared to be +good anchorage out of the strength of the tides; and to the north +of Round Head is another bay, the bottom of which is an isthmus +of about a mile wide, separating it from an inlet to the westward +of Cape Conway. This bay very probably affords good anchorage out +of the strength of the tides.</p> +<p>CAPE CONWAY, in latitude 20 degrees 32 minutes, and longitude +148 degrees 54 minutes, is the western limit of the south +entrance of Whitsunday Passage; it is a steep point, sloping off +to the eastward: immediately on its north side is a small shingly +beach, a few yards behind which there is a hollow, containing a +large quantity of fresh water. At a short quarter of a mile from +the point is a rocky shoal of small size, between which and the +shore there is deep water.</p> +<p>PINE HEAD, in latitude 20 degrees 23 minutes, and longitude +148 degrees 51 minutes 40 seconds, is the south-east extremity of +a small island that is separated from the main by a passage of +about a mile wide, but we did not ascertain whether it is +navigable. The head is a high, bluff point, clothed with +pine-trees: near it the tide runs in strong eddies, and for that +reason it ought not to be approached nearer than half a mile; it +appeared to be bold to. There is a sandy bay on its south west +side affording a good landing-place; the island is clothed with +grass, and thickly wooded: we found no water. The variation was 5 +degrees 35 minutes East.</p> +<p>PORT MOLLE, so named by Lieutenant Jeffreys, appeared to trend +in for four or five miles: and, probably, to afford a convenient +port, as it is well sheltered from the wind, and is protected +from the north-east by a group of small islands, thickly wooded. +Hence the land trends to the north-west towards Cape Gloucester; +the shore was very indistinctly seen, but seemed to be very much +indented, and to possess several bays, if not rivers; for the +land at the back is very high, and must give rise to several +mountain, if not navigable, streams.</p> +<p>MOUNT DRYANDER, whose summit is in latitude 20 degrees 14 +minutes 10 seconds, and longitude 148 degrees 30 minutes 55 +seconds, forms a small peak, and is visible from Repulse Bay, as +well as from the northern extremity of the Cumberland Islands: it +is four thousand five hundred and sixty-six feet high; and the +hills around it are at least from seven hundred to a thousand +feet in height.</p> +<p>The greater part of the water that collects from these hills +probably empties itself into Repulse and Edgecumbe Bays, or it +may be distributed in lagoons upon the low land that separates +them.</p> +<p>At the back of Point Slade there is a high mountainous range +extending without interruption to the westward of Mount Upstart. +In latitude 21 degrees 1 1/2 minutes, and longitude 148 degrees +36 3/4 minutes is a high-rounded summit, which is visible at the +distance of twenty leagues: between this range, which is at the +distance of from five to seven leagues from the sea, and the +coast, are several ridges gradually lowering in altitude as they +approach the shore. In the neighbourhood of Repulse Bay, this +mountainous range recedes, and has a considerable track of low +land at its base, which is possibly a rich country: from the +height of the hills, it must be well watered.</p> +<p>CAPE GLOUCESTER. The point of land that Captain Cook took +originally for the cape, is an island of about five miles long +and two broad, separated from the true Cape Gloucester by a +strait, a mile and a half wide. The island is called Gloucester +Island; its summit at the north end is in latitude 19 degrees 57 +minutes 24 seconds, longitude 148 degrees 23 minutes 38 seconds: +it is eighteen hundred and seventy-four feet high, and its summit +is a ridge of peaks: its shores are rocky and steep; and, +although the sides of the hills are wooded, yet it has a sombre +and heavy appearance, and, at least, does not look fertile. The +cape, in latitude 20 degrees 1 minute 50 seconds, and longitude +148 degrees 26 minutes 15 seconds, is the extremity of the +mountainous range that extends off Mount Dryander. The variation +observed off the island was 7 degrees 11 minutes East.</p> +<p>EDGECUMBE BAY is a deep indentation of the land, the shores of +which are very low: its extent was not ascertained, but, by the +bearings of some land at the bottom, it is seventeen miles deep; +and its greatest breadth, at the mouth, is about fourteen miles. +It affords excellent shelter; and between Middle Island (a small +rocky islet of a mile and half in extent) and Gloucester Island +there is good anchorage in seven fathoms muddy bottom, with +protection from all winds. We did not examine the bay farther +than passing round Middle Island in six, seven, and eight +fathoms, mud. The western side is formed by low islands, that +appeared to be swampy, but our distance was too great to form the +most distant opinion of them: if the main is not swampy, it must +be a rich and interesting country.</p> +<p>HOLBORNE ISLAND is a rocky island, visible about seven or +eight leagues, and has three small islets near it: it is in +latitude 19 degrees 41 minutes 5 seconds, and longitude 148 +degrees 17 minutes 30 seconds.</p> +<p>CAPE UPSTART is the extremity of Mount Upstart, which is so +high as to be visible for more than twenty leagues in clear +weather: it rises abruptly from a low projection, and forms a +long ridge of mountainous land; the north-east end of the summit +is in latitude 19 degrees 41 minutes 50 seconds, and longitude +147 degrees 44 minutes 30 seconds. This point separates two deep +bays, both of which were of very inviting appearance, on account +of the high and broken character of the gullies on either side of +Mount Abbott, and it was almost evident that they both terminate +in a river. The hills of Mount Upstart are of primitive form, and +were judged to be composed of granite. The variation observed off +the point was 6 degrees 16 minutes East.</p> +<p>CAPE BOWLING-GREEN is very low, and projects for a +considerable distance into the sea: its north-east extremity is +in latitude 19 degrees 19 minutes 10 seconds, and longitude 147 +degrees 23 minutes East; the mountainous ranges are at least +thirty miles in the rear, and, were it not for Mounts Upstart and +Eliot, both of which are very visible, and serve as an excellent +guide, this part of the coast would be very dangerous to +approach, particularly in the night, when these marks cannot be +seen, when great attention must be paid to the lead. A ship +passing this projection should not come into shoaler water than +eleven fathoms; and, in directing a course from abreast of Mount +Upstart, should be steered sufficiently to the northward to +provide against the current which sets into the bay on the +western side of the mount. On approaching the cape, if the +soundings indicate a less depth than eleven fathoms, the vessel +should be hauled more off, because she is then either a parallel +with or to the southward of the cape.</p> +<p>CAPE CLEVELAND (latitude 19 degrees 10 minutes 10 seconds, +longitude 146 degrees 57 minutes 56 seconds) like Mount Upstart, +rises abruptly from a projection of low land, separating +Cleveland Bay from a deep sinuosity that extends under the base +of Mount Eliot, a high range with a rounded hill and a peak, the +latter being at the south extremity of its summit. Mount Eliot +may probably be seen at the distance of twenty-five leagues, if +not farther; between it and the hills of Cape Cleveland the land +is low, and is probably much intersected by water.</p> +<p>A reef extends from the extremity of Cape Cleveland for four +miles to the eastward, but not at all to the northward, so that, +with the point bearing to the southward of West 1/2 South a ship +is safe: there is a breaker near the extremity of the reef, at +about three miles from the point; to avoid which, keep the south +end of Magnetical Island well open of the north extremity of the +cape.</p> +<p>The peaked summit of MOUNT ELIOT is in latitude 19 degrees 33 +minutes 10 seconds, and longitude 146 degrees 54 minutes 25 +seconds.</p> +<p>CLEVELAND BAY affords good anchorage in all parts, in four, +five, and six fathoms; a considerable flat extends for a mile +from the shore on the western side of the cape, and is left dry +at half ebb; it fronts a sandy beach that commences at a mile and +a half to the south of the cape, and extends to the southward for +nearly two miles; over this beach, two or three streams of fresh +water communicate with the sea; they take their rise from the +hills, and probably are seldom dry.</p> +<p>The most convenient watering-place is near the centre of the +beach, a little to the northward of the highest hills. Wood for +fuel is plentiful, and grows close to the beach, and may be +embarked with facility; the best place is at the north end of the +sandy beach, since the boat can be brought nearer to the shore to +protect the wooding party.</p> +<p>HALIFAX BAY extends from Cape Cleveland to Point Hillock; it +has several islands in it, and is fronted by the PALM ISLANDS, +the summit of which is in latitude 18 degrees 43 minutes 5 +seconds, longitude 146 degrees 35 minutes 15 seconds: this group +consists of nineteen islands, one only of which is of large size, +being eight miles long and three wide; it probably affords all +the conveniences of a sheltered anchorage, and a good supply of +wood and water.</p> +<p>In latitude 18 degrees 49 minutes, nine miles from the shore, +and six miles within the island Number 2, is a coral reef, that +shows at low water: it appeared to be about two miles long; +between it and Number 2 is a wide channel with nine fathoms. The +Lady Elliot, merchant ship, in 1815, struck upon a reef in 18 +degrees 45 minutes, about four miles from the shore; of which we +saw nothing; we anchored within four miles of its position, but, +at daylight, when we got underweigh, it might have been covered +by the tide.</p> +<p>In 18 degrees 32 minutes and 146 degrees 41 minutes is a reef, +on which the San Antonio, merchant brig, struck: its position was +not correctly ascertained, as the accident happened in the +night.</p> +<p>POINT HILLOCK is in latitude 18 degrees 25 minutes, and +longitude 146 degrees 20 minutes; it is a low point projecting to +the eastward, under Mount Hinchinbrook.</p> +<p>CAPE SANDWICH is the north-east extremity of the sandy land +that stretches to the northward from the base of Mount +Hinchinbrook, which is so high as to be visible for eighteen +leagues: the mount is topped with a craggy summit, seven miles in +length from north to south.</p> +<p>There is a reef that extends for nearly a mile and a half off +the cape, having a rocky islet at its extremity. The cape is in +latitude 18 degrees 13 minutes 20 seconds, and longitude 146 +degrees 16 minutes 40 seconds. The peak at the north end of Mount +Hinchinbrook is in latitude 18 degrees 21 minutes 30 seconds, and +longitude 146 degrees 15.</p> +<p>BROOKE'S ISLANDS lie four miles north from Cape Sandwich; they +consist of three rocky islets, besides some of smaller size; the +whole are surrounded by a coral reef.</p> +<p>From Cape Sandwich the land extends, low and sandy, in a +North-West direction for five miles to a point, which is +terminated by a hill. Between this and Goold Island there appears +to be a navigable strait leading into Rockingham Bay.</p> +<p>GOOLD ISLAND, the summit of which, formed by a conical hill +covered with wood, in latitude 18 degrees 9 minutes 35 seconds, +and longitude 146 degrees 9 minutes, is about two miles long: the +south-west point of the island is a long strip of low land, with +a sandy beach; at the eastern end of which there is a run of +water; and fuel may be cut close to the shore. High water takes +place at full and change at three quarters past ten.</p> +<p>ROCKINGHAM BAY appears to be a spacious harbour. At the bottom +there was an appearance of an opening that may probably +communicate with an inlet on the south side of Point Hillock, and +insulate the land of Mount Hinchinbrook. There is good anchorage +in the bay in four and five fathoms mud, near Goold Island.</p> +<p>The natives are very friendly here, and will come off and +visit the ship.</p> +<p>FAMILY ISLES consist of seven small rocky islets, covered with +a stunted vegetation.</p> +<p>DUNK ISLAND is remarkable for having two peaks on its summit; +the south-east summit is in latitude 17 degrees 58 minutes, and +longitude 146 degrees 8 minutes 45 seconds. The variation +observed in the offing to the North-East was 5 degrees 41 minutes +East.</p> +<p>BARNARD ISLES form a group of small rocky islands extending in +a straggling direction for six miles to the south of Double +Point. Three miles to the south of the southernmost island, but +nearer to the shore, is a reef of rocks which dry at low +water.</p> +<p>From DOUBLE POINT (latitude of its summit 17 degrees 39 +minutes 50 seconds) to CAPE GRAFTON, the coast is formed by a +succession of sandy bays and projecting rocky points. In latitude +17 degrees 31 minutes, in the centre of a sandy bay, is a small +opening like a rivulet; and, on the south side of Point Cooper is +another; but neither appeared to be navigable for boats. Abreast +of Frankland's Islands, and near the south end of a sandy bay of +six miles in extent, there is another opening like a river, that, +from the appearance of the land behind, which is low and of a +verdant character, may be of considerable size. The high +mountains to the southward, Bellenden Ker's Range, must give rise +to a considerable stream; and it appears very probable that this +may be one of the outlets, but the most considerable is, perhaps, +that which falls into Trinity Bay round Cape Grafton.</p> +<p>FRANKLAND'S ISLANDS consist of several low islets one of which +is detached and of higher character than the others, which are +very low, and connected by a reef. The largest island may be seen +five or six leagues off; it is in latitude 17 degrees 7 minutes +45 seconds.</p> +<p>The land between this and Cape Grafton is high, and towards +the north has several remarkable peaks. The land of Cape Grafton +may be readily known, when seen from the southward, by appearing +like three lofty islands; the outermost is Fitzroy Island, but +the others are hills upon the main. The easternmost of the +latter, Cape Grafton, is conspicuous for having two small peaks, +like notches, on the west extremity of its summit; it is joined +to the westernmost by low land, which also separates the latter +from the other hills behind it; and, as this low land is not seen +at a distance, the hills assume the appearance of islands.</p> +<p>There is good anchorage in the strait between Cape Grafton and +Fitzroy Island, but, with a northerly wind, the better anchorage +would be on the south side of the cape. The former is exposed to +all winds between North-West and North-East. In the former case +the anchor may be dropped in nine fathoms, at a quarter to half a +mile from the beach of the island. The north extremity of Cape +Grafton is in latitude 16 degrees 51 minutes 20 seconds, +longitude 145 degrees 53 minutes 5 seconds; the south-east +extreme is in latitude 16 degrees 54 minutes 20 seconds, +longitude 145 degrees 55 minutes 15 seconds.</p> +<p>FITZROY ISLAND affords both wood and water; it has a peaked +summit. It affords anchorage in the bay on its western side, off +a coral beach; the south-west end of which is in latitude 16 +degrees 55 minutes 21 seconds, and longitude 145 degrees 56 +minutes 21 seconds. Nine miles to the eastward of Fitzroy Island +is a small bare sandy island; and, at about seven miles +North-East by East from it, there was an appearance of extensive +shoals. Variation 5 degrees 10 minutes East.</p> +<p>On the west side of CAPE GRAFTON is a bay, in the centre of +which is an island. The bottom is very shoal, but good anchorage +may be had with the cape bearing South-East Between CAPE GRAFTON +and SNAPPER ISLAND, the centre of which is in latitude 16 degrees +17 minutes 35 seconds, and longitude 145 degrees 27 minutes 40 +seconds, is TRINITY BAY; the shores of which were not very +distinctly seen. At the south side, and about seven miles within +the cape there is an opening that appeared to be extensive, and +the mouth of a considerable stream, trending in between high +ranges of land, in a direction towards Bellenden Ker's Range.</p> +<p>In latitude 16 degrees 23 1/2 minutes, and longitude 145 +degrees 34 minutes is a group consisting of three coral islands; +which, being very low, are dangerous to pass in the night.</p> +<p>The offing is said to be strewed with extensive reefs; we saw +none beyond Green Island: those that are laid down on the chart +are from Lieutenant Jeffrey's account.*</p> +<blockquote>(*Footnote. Much shoal water was seen to the +northward of Green Island from the Tamar's masthead. Roe +manuscript.)</blockquote> +<p>SNAPPER ISLAND lies off the point which forms the northern +limit of Trinity Bay; it is small, and does not supply any +water.*</p> +<blockquote>(*Footnote. Ten or eleven miles South 80 degrees East +from Snapper Island is the north-west end of a shoal, extending +to the South 41 degrees East for sixteen or seventeen miles; the +Tamar anchored under it. Roe manuscript.)</blockquote> +<p>The land behind CAPE TRIBULATION may be seen at a greater +distance than twenty leagues. It is here that the outer part of +the barrier reefs approach the coast, and there is reason to +believe that, in latitude 16 degrees 17 minutes 35 seconds, +longitude 145 degrees 27 minutes 40 seconds, they are not more +than twenty miles from it. The cape has a hillock at its +extremity, and a small rocky islet close to the shore that +renders it conspicuous: it is fourteen miles beyond Snapper +Island. The shore appears to be bold to: at three miles off we +had sixteen fathoms.</p> +<p>Ten miles further to the northward is BLOMFIELD'S RIVULET in +Weary Bay: it is blocked up by a rocky bar, having only four feet +water over it; the anchorage off it is too much exposed to be +safe. The river runs up for four or five miles, having soundings +within it from three to four fathoms, its entrance is in 15 +degrees 55 minutes 50 seconds.</p> +<p>The coast then extends to the north to Endeavour River, and +forms a few inconsiderable sinuosities; it is backed by high +land, particularly abreast of the Hope Islands. These islands +open of each other in a North 39 degrees East direction, and +appear to be connected by a shoal; it is however very likely that +a narrow passage may exist between them, but certainly not safe +to sail through.</p> +<p>Here the number of the coral reefs begin to increase, and +great attention must be paid in navigating amongst them; but, +with a careful look out from the masthead, and a quick leadsman +in the chains, no danger need be apprehended.</p> +<p>Between reef a and the shoal off the south-west Hope Island +there is a passage two miles wide, with twelve fathoms: a is +about half a mile in diameter, with a few rocks above water; its +centre is in 15 degrees 43 minutes 20 seconds, two miles from the +shore, and three miles North 55 degrees West from the south west +Hope.</p> +<p>b is about a mile and a quarter long, and has a dry rock at +its north end, the latitude of which is 15 degrees 39 minutes 20 +seconds: it is divided from Endeavour Reef by a channel of nearly +a mile wide, and fifteen fathoms deep: abreast of the south end +of b, on the western edge of Endeavour Reef, there is a dry rock, +in latitude 15 degrees 39 minutes 55 seconds.</p> +<p>ENDEAVOUR REEF is nine miles long; it lies in a North-West +direction; the north end, in 15 degrees 39 minutes South, bears +due from the North-east Hope.</p> +<p>c is covered, and not quite half a mile in length; its +latitude is 15 degrees 32 minutes: it lies four miles from the +shore.</p> +<p>d is rather larger, and has some dry rocks on its north end, +in latitude 15 degrees 29 minutes 30 seconds. Between c and d and +the shore the passage is from three to four miles wide, and in +mid-channel the depth is seven and eight fathoms.</p> +<p>On the south side of Point Monkhouse there is a bay having a +small opening at the bottom, but not deep enough for ships: it +was this bay that Captain Cook first examined in search of a +place to repair his ship.</p> +<p>On steering along the shore between Point Monkhouse and the +entrance of Endeavour River, the bottom is of sand and of +irregular depth. A spit of sand was passed over with only two and +a half fathoms on it when the summit of Mount Cook bore South 66 +degrees West (magnetic) and the outer extreme of Point Monkhouse +South 18 degrees West (magnetic). One mile off shore the shoal +soundings continued with two and a half fathoms until it bore +South 59 degrees West (magnetic) when the depth was three, and +three and a half fathoms.</p> +<p>ENDEAVOUR RIVER. The entrance of this river, in latitude 15 +degrees 27 minutes 4 seconds, and longitude 145 degrees 10 +minutes 49 seconds,* forms a very good port for small vessels; +and, in a case of distress, might be useful for large ships, as +it proved to our celebrated navigator Captain Cook, who, it is +well known, repaired his ship there after having laid +twenty-three hours upon a coral reef.</p> +<blockquote>(*Footnote. The situation of the observatory at +Endeavour River was found by lunar distances, taken during my +visits to that place in 1819 and 1820, as follows: +<p>Latitude by meridional altitudes of the sun, taken in the +artificial horizon, being the mean of twenty-seven observations: +15 degrees 27 minutes 4 seconds.</p> +<p>Longitude by twenty-five set of distances (sun West of first +quarter of the moon) containing one hundred and seventeen sights, +with the sextant: 144 degrees 52 minutes 16 seconds.</p> +<p>Longitude by thirty set of distances (sun East of first +quarter of the moon) containing one hundred and fifty sights, +with the sextant: 145 degrees 29 minutes 23 seconds.</p> +<p>Mean, of fifty-five sets: 145 degrees 10 minutes 49 +seconds.)</p> +</blockquote> +<p>The entrance is formed on the south side by a steep hill, +covered with trees growing to the edge of its rocky shore. The +north side of the entrance is a low sandy beach of two miles and +a quarter in length: at its north end a range of hills rises +abruptly, and extends for six or seven miles, when it again +suddenly terminates, and is separated from the rocky projection +of Cape Bedford by a low plain of sand.</p> +<p>The entrance of Endeavour River is defended by a bar, on +which, at high water, there is about fourteen feet; but, at low +water, not more than ten feet: the channel over the bar is close +to the south side, for the sandbank extends from the low sandy +north shore to within one hundred and forty yards of the south +shore, and at three quarters ebb (spring tides) is dry.</p> +<p>In steering in for the mouth, upon bringing Point Monkhouse in +a line with Point a (the north point of the bay under Mount Cook) +you will be in three fathoms; steer in until the south extremity +of the low north sandy point is opened of the trend round Point +c, when you may haul a little more in, and when point d (which is +a point where the mangroves commence) bears South 33 degrees West +(magnetic) steer directly for it; this will carry you over the +deepest part or the bar, which stretches off from point c in a +North 75 degrees West (magnetic) direction; another mark is to +keep the trend beyond d just in sight, but not open, or you will +be too near the spit: the best way is, having opened it, haul in +a little to the southward, and shut it in again: you may pass +within ten yards of point d; and the best anchorage is just +within it; the vessel may be secured head and stern to trees on +the beach, with bow and stern anchors to steady her. No vessel of +a greater draught than twelve feet should enter the harbour; and +this vessel may even moor in four fathoms within her own length +of the shore, with the outer trend just shut in by the mangrove +point a. The watering-place is a stream that empties itself into +the port through the mangroves, about two hundred yards to the +south: and if this should fail, there is a good stream at the +north end of the long north sandy beach. The latter, although +very high coloured, is of wholesome quality; but in bad weather +is inconvenient to be procured on account of the surf. Water for +common purposes of cooking may be had on a sandy beach a little +without the entrance, but it is of a mineral quality, and of +brackish taste. It is high water at full and change at eight +o'clock, and the tide rises from five to ten feet. The variation +of the observatory was 5 degrees 14 minutes East.</p> +<p>CAPE BEDFORD (latitude 15 degrees 16 minutes 19 seconds, +longitude 145 degrees 17 minutes 19 seconds) is high, and forms a +steep slope to the sea: it appeared to be bold to.* Between it +and Cape Flattery is a bay backed by low land, about five miles +deep; but it is exposed to the wind, unless there is anchorage +under the north-west end of Cape Bedford.</p> +<blockquote>(*Footnote. Shoal water extends for nearly a mile +round Cape Bedford. Roe manuscript.)</blockquote> +<p>CAPE FLATTERY is eighteen miles north of Cape Bedford: its +extremity is high and rocky, and forms two distinct hills. The +summit of the cape is in latitude 14 degrees 52 minutes 30 +seconds, and longitude 145 degrees 16 minutes 10 seconds.*</p> +<blockquote>(*Footnote. There are some dangerous shoals to the +eastward of Point Lookout, and to the northward of Cape Flattery, +about two miles apart from each other, situated in what was +considered to be the fair channel. Roe manuscript.)</blockquote> +<p>Eleven miles beyond the cape, in a North 45 degrees West +direction, is POINT LOOKOUT, forming a peaked hill at the +extremity of a low sandy projection, whence the land trends West +by North 1/2 North for twelve leagues to Cape Bowen.</p> +<p>e, a reef nearly three miles long and one broad: its north end +is twelve miles nearly due East from the entrance of Endeavour +River, in latitude 15 degrees 26 minutes 50 seconds, longitude +145 degrees 23 minutes 30 seconds.</p> +<p>TURTLE REEF was visited by Mr. Bedwell, it is covered at high +water, excepting a small spot of sand, about the size of the +boat, at its north end in latitude 15 degrees 23 minutes, +longitude 145 degrees 22 minutes 50 seconds: its interior is +occupied, like most others, by a shoal lagoon; it is entirely of +coral, and has abundance of shellfish; it was here that Captain +Cook procured turtle during his stay at Endeavour River, from the +entrance of which it bears North 75 degrees East, and is distant +eleven miles; its south end is separated from e by a channel of a +mile wide.</p> +<p>THREE ISLES, in latitude 15 degrees 7 minutes 30 seconds, is a +group of low coral islets covered with shrubs, and encircled by a +reef, that is not quite two miles in diameter.</p> +<p>Two miles and three quarters to the North-West is a low wooded +island, about a mile long, also surrounded by a reef; and four +miles to the southward of it is a rocky islet.</p> +<p>REEF f is about four or five miles East-South-East from Three +Isles; it appeared to be about three miles long: its western +extreme is in latitude 15 degrees 10 minutes, and in longitude +145 degrees 26 minutes.</p> +<p>TWO ISLES are also low and wooded, and surrounded by a reef: +the largest islet is in latitude 15 degrees 1 minute 20 seconds, +and longitude 145 degrees 22 minutes 10 seconds.</p> +<p>REEF g appeared to be about a mile broad and two miles and a +half long: its south end is in latitude 15 degrees 0 minutes 15 +seconds, longitude 145 degrees 26 minutes 45 seconds.</p> +<p>REEF h is an extensive reef, having high breakers on its outer +edge: it is more than four miles long, and separated from the +north end of g by a channel a mile wide.</p> +<p>REEF i has several detached reefs about it, on the +northernmost are two rocky islands, and to the southward, on a +detached shoal, there is a bare sandy islet that is perhaps +occasionally covered by the tide: its south-westernmost extremity +and the summit of Lizard Island are in the line of bearing of +North 5 degrees West (magnetic) its latitude is 14 degrees 53 +minutes 40 seconds.</p> +<p>REEF k, in latitude 14 degrees 47 minutes, has a dry sand upon +it: its sub-marine extent was not ascertained.</p> +<p>REEF l; the position of this reef is rather uncertain, near +its western side is a dry key in latitude 14 degrees 47 minutes +30 seconds.</p> +<p>m is probably unconnected with the shoal off the south end of +Eagle Island. In Captain Cook's rough chart there is twelve +fathoms marked between two shoals which must mean the above.</p> +<p>EAGLE ISLAND is low and wooded, and situated at the north end +of a considerable shoal; its latitude is 14 degrees 42 minutes 20 +seconds, and longitude 145 degrees 18 minutes 30 seconds.</p> +<p>DIRECTION ISLANDS are two high rocky islands, so called by +Captain Cook to direct ships to the opening in the reefs, through +which he passed out to sea; they are high and of conical shape, +and might be seen more than five or six leagues off was it not +for the hazy weather that always exists in the neighbourhood of +the reefs; the northernmost is in latitude 14 degrees 44 minutes +50 seconds, longitude 145 degrees 26 minutes 25 seconds: the +southernmost is in latitude 14 degrees 50 minutes, longitude 145 +degrees 26 minutes 45 seconds.</p> +<p>LIZARD ISLAND, about three miles long, is remarkable for its +peaked summit, the latitude of which is 14 degrees 40 minutes 20 +seconds, and longitude 145 degrees 23 minutes: on its south side +is an extensive reef encompassing three islets, of which two are +high and rocky: the best anchorage is on its western side under +the summit; with the high northernmost of the Direction Islands +in sight over the low land, bearing about South-East by compass: +the depth is six and seven fathoms sandy bottom. The variation +here is 5 degrees 2 minutes East.</p> +<p>TURTLE GROUP is four miles to the north of Point Lookout; the +islets are encircled by a horse-shoe shaped coral reef, and +consist of six islands, all low and bushy. These islands are not +laid down with sufficient accuracy as to their relative +positions.</p> +<p>n is a low wooded island about eleven miles west from Lizard +Island; no reef was seen to project from it; it is in the +meridian of the observatory of Endeavour River; and in latitude +14 degrees 40 minutes.</p> +<p>o is a small coral reef; it lies a mile and a half North 64 +degrees West from the north end of n.</p> +<p>p is a coral reef, about a mile in extent, separated from o by +a channel of a mile wide.</p> +<p>q, a reef, on which are two low wooded isles, apparently +connected with a shoal extending from Point Lookout along the +shore to the West-North-West; the isles are seven miles North 64 +degrees West from Point Lookout.</p> +<p>COLES ISLANDS consist of four small bushy islets from a +quarter to half a mile in extent; they are from four to six miles +North-East from Point Murdoch. This group appeared to be merely +the several dry parts of the shoal that extends from Point +Lookout to Noble Island; between them and the latter island, are +two patches of dry sandy keys, but it is probable that they may +be covered by the tide. The continuation of the shoal between the +islands and Point Lookout was not clearly ascertained.</p> +<p>At POINT MURDOCH, which has a peaked hill at its extremity, +the hills again approach the coast; at Cape Bowen they project +into the sea, and separate two bays, in each of which there is +possibly a rivulet; that to the eastward of the cape trends in +and forms a deep bight. On the western side of the hills of Cape +Bowen there is a track of low land, separating them from another +rocky range. The summit of the hill at Point Murdoch is in +latitude 14 degrees 40 minutes, and longitude 144 degrees 46 +minutes.</p> +<p>HOWICK'S GROUP consists of ten or eleven islands, of which +Number 1, remarkable for a hillock at its south-east end, is in +latitude 14 degrees 32 minutes 40 seconds, and longitude 144 +degrees 55 minutes 20 seconds; it is nearly three miles long; the +rest are all less than half a mile in extent, excepting the +westernmost, Number 6, which is nearly a mile and a half in +diameter.</p> +<p>The passage between 2 and 3 is safe, and has seven and eight +fathoms: the north-west side of 3 is of rocky approach, but the +opposite side of the strait is bold to; the anchorage is +tolerably good. The Mermaid drove, but it was not considered to +be caused by the nature of the bottom, which is of soft sand, and +free from rocks.</p> +<p>The channel between 1 and 2 appeared to be very rocky, and +shoal: between 1 and the reef r there is probably a clear channel +of about a mile wide: the north-east end of 1 has a reef which +extends off it for half a mile.</p> +<blockquote>(*Footnote. Many shoals, partly dry, occupy the space +to the northward and eastward of Howick's Group. Roe +manuscript.)</blockquote> +<p>All the islands are low and wooded, and surrounded by a coral +reef of small extent.</p> +<p>4 has a small islet off its west end.</p> +<p>5, 8, and 9 did not appear to have any reefs projecting from +them. 7 is probably two islands, with a reef extending for half a +mile on its western side. 6 is of larger size than the generality +of the low islands hereabout, Number 1 excepted: its centre is in +latitude 14 degrees 28 minutes, and longitude 144 degrees 45 +minutes. The position of Number 10 was not correctly +ascertained.</p> +<p>The peak of CAPE BOWEN is in latitude 14 degrees 34 minutes, +and longitude 144 degrees 35 minutes 40 seconds.</p> +<p>NOBLE ISLAND is a rock, having a sandy, or a coral beach at +its north-west end; although small it is very conspicuous; and, +when first seen from the southward, has the appearance of a rock +with a double rounded top.</p> +<p>The REEFS s, t, and u are unconnected; the north end of s, +lying six miles and a half due east from Point Barrow, was dry +for a considerable extent; t, one mile to the north, was covered; +but there is a dry sandy key on u, bearing from Point Barrow, +North 32 degrees East, six miles: some rocks showed themselves +above the water off its south end.</p> +<p>v and w may possibly be connected; the former was noticed to +extend for three miles, and the latter for nearly ten miles; +there was, however, a space of three miles between them, where a +channel may possibly exist. The channels between t and u, and +between v and w, appeared to be clear and deep.</p> +<p>The REEFS x, y, and Z, are probably parts of the barrier +reefs, for the sea was breaking very heavily upon their outer +edge; there were, however, considerable spaces where no breakers +appeared, some of which, being three or four miles wide, may +possibly be as many outlets to sea.</p> +<p>NINIAN BAY is a bight to the west of Point Barrow;* it is +about three miles deep, and has a small opening at the bottom; in +crossing it we had not more water than four fathoms, and within +our course it appeared to be very shoal: there is doubtless a +channel leading to the opening; but, to the name of harbour or +port, it has not the slightest pretension: it was named Port +Ninian by Lieutenant Jeffreys: off the north end of Point Barrow +are two rocky islands.</p> +<blockquote>(*Footnote. Off Point Barrow, the shoals lie from +half to one mile nearer the shore, than they are laid down; and +one mile and three quarters North 55 degrees East from the point +are two small patches of coral, under water; they bear North-East +and South-West from each other and are probably one tenth of a +mile apart. Roe manuscript.)</blockquote> +<p>Between Ninian Bay and Cape Melville the coast is high and +rocky, but appeared to be fronted by a reef, which in some places +extends for a mile and a half from the shore; in this interval +there are two or three sandy beaches, but I doubt the +practicability of landing upon them in a boat. The summit and +sides of the hills that form the promontory, of which Cape +Melville is the extreme, are of most remarkable appearance, being +covered with heaps of rounded stones of very large size (volume +1.)</p> +<p>CAPE MELVILLE, sloping off into the sea to the north, +terminates this remarkable promontory in latitude 14 degrees 9 +minutes 30 seconds, and longitude 144 degrees 24 minutes 50 +seconds: the coast trends round it to the South-South-West and +South-West, and forms Bathurst Bay, which is nine miles and a +half deep, and thirteen wide, the western side being formed by +Flinders' Group. A reef extends for more than two miles off Cape +Melville in a North West by North direction, on which some +rounded stones, similar to those upon the land, are heaped up +above the sea: there is also one of these heaps at the extremity +of the reef, outside, and within a quarter of a mile of which we +had fourteen fathoms water: there are two other similar heaps +within the outer pile, and between them there are possibly clear +passages, but they should not be attempted without great caution. +It was remarked that the breeze always freshened on passing round +this cape.</p> +<p>PIPON ISLANDS, two small islets, of which the easternmost is +the largest, are in latitude 14 degrees 6 minutes 40 seconds, +longitude 144 degrees 26 minutes 5 seconds; they are surrounded +by a reef, lying two miles and a half from the cape; between them +and the reef that extends from the cape, there is a safe and deep +passage of more than a mile wide.</p> +<p>The south-east side of Bathurst Bay is shoal. At the bottom +are two openings, with some projecting land between them, at the +extremity of which there is a peak; these openings are doubtless +rivulets of considerable size, and take their rise from the high +land at the back of Cape Bowen.</p> +<p>FLINDERS' GROUP forms the west head of Bathurst Bay; they are +high and rocky, and consist of four islands, two of which are +three miles long. The peak of the largest island, in latitude 14 +degrees 11 minutes 5 seconds, and longitude 144 degrees 12 +minutes 5 seconds, is visible from a distance of twelve or +thirteen leagues; and the higher parts of the islands may be seen +generally at seven or eight leagues.</p> +<p>On the eastern side of the northernmost island there is a bay +fronted by a coral reef, but it is too exposed to the prevailing +winds to be safe. It is here that the Frederick (merchant ship) +was wrecked in 1818.</p> +<p>CAPE FLINDERS, in latitude 14 degrees 8 minutes, longitude 144 +degrees 10 minutes 20 seconds, is the north extremity of the +island; it may be passed close to with twelve fathoms: the best +anchorage is under the flat-topped hill, at a quarter of a mile +from the shore, in ten fathoms mud. The variation is 5 degrees 20 +minutes East. It is high water at full and change at a quarter +past nine.</p> +<p>In the offing is a low wooded island of more than a mile in +diameter.</p> +<p>CLACK'S ISLAND is a high rock, situated at the south-east end +of reef b, in latitude 14 degrees 4 minutes 45 seconds, and +longitude 144 degrees 11 minutes 45 seconds, and, being a bare +black rock, with no apparent vegetation, is a conspicuous object: +there is another rock on its north-east end. (See above.) The +reef is of circular shape, and three miles in diameter.</p> +<p>The shoal marked a was not seen by us. H.M. sloop Satellite +struck upon it in June, 1822, on her passage to India. The +following marks for it were obligingly communicated to me by +Captain M.J. Currie, of H.M. sloop Satellite, who sent a boat to +examine it upon her second voyage the following year:</p> +<p>"In crossing the northern part of Bathurst Bay, and nearly in +mid-channel, between Cape Flinders and the low wooded island, +there is a small patch of sunken rocks, lying north and south, +not more than a cable's length in extent, the least water being +one fathom. The Satellite grounded on them in two fathoms, in +June, 1822. I sent a boat to examine this shoal in making the +same passage in August, 1823, and found it to be under the +following bearings (by compass): namely, Cape Flinders, +South-West by West 3/4 West; the high peak on the south-east part +of Flinders' Group, South 1/4 West; the highest of Clack's +Islands, North-West 1/2 West, and Cape Melville East 1/2 South. +It is a dangerous shoal in running for Cape Flinders, but may be +easily avoided by steering near the low wooded island, to the +north-east of the cape, or by keeping the shore of Flinders' +Group on board, which is perhaps preferable. The variation is 5 +degrees 40 minutes East."*</p> +<blockquote>(*Footnote. The shoal is in a line with, and half way +between, the flat-topped hill on the north island of Flinders' +Group, and the centre of the low wooded island, and is nearly +joined to some shoal-water that extends for two miles from the +latter island. Roe manuscript.)</blockquote> +<p>PRINCESS CHARLOTTE'S BAY is an extensive bight in the coast, +twenty-two miles deep, and thirty-one broad; its shores are low, +and at the bottom in latitude 14 degrees 29 minutes there is a +mangrove opening.</p> +<p>JANE'S TABLE LAND, in latitude 14 degrees 29 minutes 15 +seconds and longitude 144 degrees 4 minutes 45 seconds, is a +remarkable flat-topped hill at the bottom of the bay, rising +abruptly from the surrounding low land: it is about five miles +from the coast; its summit, by the angle it subtended, is about a +mile in length. Excepting this hill, no other high land was seen +at the bottom of the bay.</p> +<p>On the western side the land rises to a moderate height, and +forms a bank of about ten miles in extent, but this was not +visible for more than three or four leagues. To the north of this +no part of the interior can be seen until in latitude 13 degrees +55 minutes, when the south end of a ridge of hills commences at +about seven miles behind the beach, which it gradually approaches +until it reaches the coast in 13 degrees 35 minutes, and is +terminated by a round hill; the coast then extends with a low +sandy beach for eleven miles to Cape Sidmouth.</p> +<p>c is a covered reef of coral, extending North-East by East and +South-West by West for seventeen miles: its south-west end bears +North 75 degrees West, twelve miles and a half, from Cape +Flinders.</p> +<p>d, e, and f, are three coral banks, having dry sandy keys on +each; they are of circular shape, and from a mile to a third of a +mile in diameter: d is the largest, and bears nearly due-west +from Cape Flinders, from which it is distant twelve miles and a +half.</p> +<p>g and h are two coral reefs; but it was not ascertained +whether they are connected to each other or not: they may also be +joined to c, and indeed this supposition is very likely to be +correct, for we found the water quite smooth, and little or no +set of tide on passing them. On the southwest extremity of g, in +latitude 14 degrees 1 minute 20 seconds, longitude 143 degrees 50 +minutes, there is a dry sandy key, as there is also upon h, but +on the latter there are also rocks, and the sand is dry for four +or five miles along its north-west side: the south-west end of h +is in latitude 13 degrees 59 minutes, longitude 143 degrees 49 +minutes.</p> +<p>i is a circular coral reef, of a mile and a quarter in +diameter, and has a dry sandy key at its north-west end; it is +two miles North-North-West from the south-west end of h.</p> +<p>k is a small reef with a sandy key upon it, four miles to the +east of Pelican Island.</p> +<p>PELICAN ISLAND is on the north-west side of a reef of more +than a mile and a half long: it is very small, but remarkable for +having two clumps of trees, which at a distance give it the +appearance of being two small islets: it is low, and, like the +other islands of its character, may be seen at ten miles from the +deck: its latitude is 13 degrees 54 minutes 45 seconds, and +longitude 143 degrees 46 minutes. (See volume 1.)</p> +<p>l is a long narrow coral reef, extending in a North-North-East +direction: it is thirteen miles in extent, but generally not more +than one-third of a mile wide: its greatest width is not more +than a mile and a half: its south-west end is five miles and +three-quarters north from Pelican Island.</p> +<p>m is an extensive coral reef, extending for fifteen miles in +North East by North direction, parallel with l, from which it is +separated by a channel of from one to two miles wide. At its +south-west end, where there is an extensive dry sandy key, and +some dry rocks, it is two miles wide: but towards its northern +end it tapers away to the breadth of a quarter of a mile. The +south trend of its south-west end lies seven miles North 44 +degrees West from Pelican Island, and four miles from Island 2 of +Claremont Isles.</p> +<p>n is another extensive reef, which may possibly be connected +with m. At its westernmost end, about four miles North by East +1/2 East from the west end of m., is a dry sand of small +extent.</p> +<p>It was considered probable that there was a safe passage +between the reefs l and m. We steered so far as to see the +termination of the latter, upon which the sea was breaking, which +afforded a proof of its not being connected with the former, +which also the dark colour of the water sufficiently +indicated.</p> +<p>The Mermaid was nearly lost in attempting to cross the latter +reef. (Volume 1.)</p> +<p>CLAREMONT ISLES consist of five small islets, numbered from 1 +to 5; they are of coral formation, and are covered with small +brushwood; they are from six to seven miles apart, excepting 4 +and 5, which are separated by a channel only a mile and a half +wide: off the east and south-east end of 5, a coral reef extends +for a mile and a half to the eastward, having two dry rocks on +its north-east end.</p> +<p><b>COLUMN 1: CLAREMONT ISLE.<br> +COLUMN 2: LATITUDE IN DEGREES, MINUTES, SECONDS.<br> +COLUMN 3: LONGITUDE IN DEGREES, MINUTES, SECONDS.</b></p> +<p>Number 1 : 13 56 20 : 143 40 30.<br> +Number 2 : 13 51 30 : 143 37 30.<br> +Number 3 : 13 46 45 : 143 33 20.<br> +Number 4 : 13 40 00 : 143 36 20.</p> +<p>Reef o extends in an east and west direction for a mile and a +half, and at a mile farther there is another reef, that may be +connected to it; o has a dry sand near its western extremity, in +latitude 13 degrees 34 minutes, and longitude 143 degrees 38 +minutes 45 seconds.</p> +<p>Islet 6, in latitude 13 degrees 29 minutes, longitude 143 +degrees 38 minutes 26 seconds, is a very small, low, woody islet, +with a reef extending for three-quarters of a mile off its north +and south ends.</p> +<p>A reef lies two miles and one-third North 72 1/2 degrees West +from islet 6, and South 59 degrees East from the summit of Cape +Sidmouth; this reef is not more than a quarter of a mile in +extent, and has a rock in its centre, that is uncovered at half +tide; it is a brown looking shoal, and therefore of dangerous +approach.</p> +<p>Off ROUND HILL there is a sandbank covered by the sea; it lies +about two miles from the shore, and about East-North-East from +Round Hill summit.</p> +<p>q is a small, brown, rocky shoal, that is not visible until +close to it; it bears South 60 degrees East, four miles from the +extremity of Cape Sidmouth.</p> +<p>CAPE SIDMOUTH is rather an elevated point, having higher land +behind it; and at about nine miles in the interior, to the +West-North-West, there is a rounded summit: at the extremity of +the cape there are two remarkable lumps on the land, in latitude +13 degrees 24 minutes 20 seconds, and longitude 143 degrees 30 +minutes. The cape is fronted by several rocky shoals, and ought +not to be approached within four miles.</p> +<p>r is a sandbank, on which we had two and a half fathoms; but +from the nature of the other neighbouring reefs, s and t, it is +perhaps rocky also, and may be connected with them. It lies four +miles and a quarter North 32 degrees East from Cape Sidmouth, and +West 1/2 North from islet 7.</p> +<p>6 1/2 and 7 are two bare sandy islets, situated at the north +ends of reefs extending in a North-North-West direction; the reef +off the islet 6 1/2 is four miles and a half in length, and that +off 7 is two miles and a half long: 6 1/2 is in latitude 13 +degrees 23 minutes 20 seconds, longitude 143 degrees 39 minutes +30 seconds; 7, in latitude 13 degrees 21 minutes 20 seconds, and +longitude 143 degrees 36 minutes 10 seconds.</p> +<p>8 and 9 are two low, woody islets of about a mile and a +quarter in diameter. Some shoal marks on the water were observed +opposite these islands, but their existence was not ascertained. +Both the islets are surrounded by coral reefs, of small +extent.</p> +<p>NIGHT ISLAND, its north end in latitude 13 degrees 13 minutes +8 seconds, and longitude 143 degrees 28 minutes 40 seconds, is a +low woody island, two miles long, but not more than half a mile +wide; it is surrounded by a coral reef, that does not extend more +than a quarter of a mile from its northern end. On the south +side, and within it, the space seemed to be much occupied by +reefs, but they were not distinctly made out, on account of the +thickness of the weather. There was also the appearance of a +covered shoal, bearing North 55 degrees East from the north end +of the island, distant four miles.*</p> +<blockquote>(*Footnote. Observed many shoals to the North-West of +Night Island; one bore East-North-East, two miles and a half from +its north point; we saw much shoal water to seaward. Roe +manuscript.)</blockquote> +<p>u and w are two reefs; the former, which was dry when we +passed, lies six miles North 18 degrees West from the north end +of Night Island; there is also a small rock detached from it, +which is not visible until close to it.</p> +<p>v is a covered coral reef, of about a mile and a quarter in +extent; its centre is in 13 degrees 1 minute latitude.</p> +<p>SHERRARD'S ISLETS are low and bushy, and surrounded by a rocky +shoal extending for a mile to the South-East; the +south-westernmost is in 12 degrees 58 minutes 10 seconds +latitude, and 143 degrees 30 minutes 15 seconds longitude.</p> +<p>10 is a low wooded islet, in latitude 12 degrees 53 minutes 10 +seconds, on a reef of small extent; abreast of it is a rocky +islet, lying about a mile and a half south from CAPE DIRECTION; +off its east end is a smaller rock.</p> +<p>The coast between Cape Sidmouth and Cape Direction is rather +high, and the shore is formed by a sandy beach. Ten miles +North-West from the former cape is an opening in the hills; the +high land then continues to the northward to Cape Direction, +which has a peak near its extremity, close off which are two +small rocks, but the depth at a mile and a half off is thirteen +fathoms. The peak is in latitude 12 degrees 51 minutes 55 +seconds, and longitude 143 degrees 26 minutes 10 seconds.*</p> +<blockquote>(*Footnote. Shoal water extends for about six miles +round the north side of Cape Direction. Roe +manuscript.)</blockquote> +<p>x; the position of this reef was not precisely ascertained; it +appeared to be about two miles to the North-North-West of the +extremity of the cape.</p> +<p>y and z are two covered reefs, of not more than a mile in +extent; they are separated from each other by a channel a mile +wide; y is four miles and a half North 51 degrees East from Cape +Direction.</p> +<p>a and b are also covered reefs; the former is a mile and a +quarter in length; the latter extends for two miles in an east +direction, and is a mile broad: a bears nearly east, nine miles, +from a peaked hill on the shore, and is five miles to the south +of Cape Weymouth.</p> +<p>LLOYD'S BAY was not examined; it appeared to have a +considerable opening at its south-west end, where the land was +very low; the hilly country to the south of Cape Direction also +ceases, and there is a considerable space of low land between +them and the south end of Cape Weymouth range.</p> +<p>CAPE WEYMOUTH is an elevated point, sloping off from a high +summit; its extreme is in latitude 12 degrees 37 minutes 15 +seconds, and longitude 143 degrees 20 minutes 35 seconds. +RESTORATION ISLAND, off the cape, is high, and of conical shape; +about a mile East-South-East from it is a small rocky islet. The +coast then extends towards Bolt Head, and forms several +sinuosities, one of which is WEYMOUTH BAY of Captain Cook; the +shores of the bay were not well examined.*</p> +<blockquote>(*Footnote. There is a dry sand four or five miles +North-West from Cape Weymouth. Roe manuscript.)</blockquote> +<p>FAIR CAPE, so named by Lieutenant Bligh, is a projection of +high land, in latitude 12 degrees 25 minutes, longitude 143 +degrees 11 minutes 15 seconds: it has a reef off it according to +Lieutenant Jeffrey's account, but its situation does not appear +to have been correctly ascertained: we did not see it.</p> +<p>BOLT HEAD is the north-west end of the high land at the south +end of TEMPLE BAY. It is here that the high land terminates; the +coast to the northward being very low and sandy; with the +exception of CAPE GRENVILLE, which is the rocky projection that +forms the north extremity of Temple Bay. A little to the south of +the cape is INDIAN BAY of Lieutenant Bligh. The latitude of Cape +Grenville's east trend is 11 degrees 57 minutes 30 seconds, its +longitude 143 degrees 8 minutes.</p> +<p>c is a coral reef, with a dry sandy key at its northern end, +in latitude 12 degrees 35 minutes 20 seconds, longitude 143 +degrees 25 minutes 15 seconds; it is about two miles long.</p> +<p>d, a small oval-shaped reef in the channel between c and e: it +is covered, and has perhaps twelve feet water over it.</p> +<p>e is an extensive coral reef, fourteen miles long, commencing +in latitude 12 degrees 32 1/2 minutes, and extending to 12 +degrees 24 minutes; and in longitude 143 degrees 16 minutes: it +is entirely covered, except a few dry rocks at its north-west +end: the south-eastern extremity of the reef is perhaps three or +four miles wide, but its eastern termination was not clearly +distinguished.</p> +<p>f is a small reef, about three miles South-West from QUOIN +ISLAND, which is a small wedge-shaped rock: it is in the +neighbourhood of this reef that the merchant ship, Morning Star, +was lost. Quoin Island is in latitude 12 degrees 24 minutes, and +longitude 143 degrees 23 minutes 50 seconds.</p> +<p>g is a coral reef, ten miles long, and from one to two broad; +having a dry rock upon it (in latitude 12 degrees 18 minutes 20 +seconds, and longitude 143 degrees 14 minutes 35 seconds) about +three miles from its north end.</p> +<p>FORBES' ISLANDS are high and rocky, but appeared to be clothed +with vegetation; the group occupies a space of about two miles. +The summit of Forbes' Island is in latitude 12 degrees 16 minutes +35 seconds, and longitude 143 degrees 18 minutes 50 seconds.</p> +<p>h, a coral reef, with some dry rocks near its north end, is +about one mile long, and separated from i by a narrow pass. The +south end of h bears from the summit of Forbes' Island West 1/4 +South seven miles.</p> +<p>i and k, coral reefs, lying North-West, having a very narrow +channel between them; the former is covered, but the latter has a +dry sandy key at its north-west end, in latitude 12 degrees 12 +minutes 20 seconds, and longitude 143 degrees 10 minutes 5 +seconds.</p> +<p>PIPER'S ISLETS are four low bushy islets upon two circular +reefs, with a passage separating them of a quarter of a mile +wide; the reefs have each two islets upon them, and a dry rocky +key round their western edge: the centre of the narrowest part of +the channel between them is twelve and a half fathoms deep, but +abreast the south end of the south-easternmost shoal there is ten +and a half fathoms.</p> +<p>l, a circular coral reef, a mile and a half in diameter, with +a dry rock at its east end, in latitude 12 degrees 9 minutes 5 +seconds, and longitude 143 degrees 11 minutes.</p> +<p>YOUNG ISLAND, a small islet on a coral reef of about half a +mile in extent, in latitude 12 degrees 6 minutes 50 seconds, and +longitude 143 degrees 7 minutes. (See volume 1.)</p> +<p>m, a coral reef, about two and a half miles long, having a dry +rock at its north end; it bears South 40 degrees West, three +miles from the summit of Haggerston's Island.</p> +<p>n, an extensive, irregular-shaped, coral reef, seven miles +long, and from one to four broad; it is separated from o by a +narrow tortuous channel, but not safe to pass through: both n and +o are covered. There is a safe passage between these reefs and +Haggerston's Island, of a mile and a half wide; but there is a +small reef detached from the north-west end of n, which should be +avoided, although there is probably sufficient depth of water +over it for any ship: it was seen from the summit of the island, +from whence another coral patch was observed at about one mile to +the westward, of which we saw no signs.</p> +<p>p is a small reef, of about a mile and a quarter in extent; it +was seen from the summit of Haggerston's Island, as was also +another reef, seven miles South by East from it: the positions of +these reefs are doubtful.</p> +<p>HAGGERSTON'S ISLAND is high and rocky; the summit is in +latitude 12 degrees 1 minute 40 seconds, and longitude 143 +degrees 12 minutes; it is situated at the South-South-West +extremity of a coral reef, of nearly two miles in length; its +northern side is furnished with some trees and a sandy beach. At +the north end of the reef are two dry patches of sand and rocks. +It is separated from the islands of Sir Everard Home's Group by a +channel nearly three miles wide, quite free from danger; but in +passing through it, the tide or current sets to the +North-North-West, round the reef off Haggerston's Island. (See +volume 1.)</p> +<p>SIR EVERARD HOME'S GROUP consists of six islands: the two +south-westernmost are rocky, and one of them has two peaks upon +it, which, from the southward, have the appearance of being upon +the extremity of Cape Grenville: the south-easternmost has a +hillock, or clump of trees, at its south-east extremity, in +latitude 11 degrees 57 minutes 40 seconds, and longitude 143 +degrees 11 minutes. The outer part of this group is bold to, and +the islands may be approached, but the space within them appeared +to be rocky: there is a passage between the group and Cape +Grenville. The merchant ship Lady Elliot in passing through it, +found overfalls with eighteen fathoms.</p> +<p>Round Cape Grenville is MARGARET BAY, fronted by SUNDAY +ISLAND, elevated and rocky, but not so high as Haggerston's +Island, with good anchorage under its lee.</p> +<p>q is a covered reef of about a mile in extent, in latitude 11 +degrees 55 minutes, five or six miles to the East-North-East of +Sir Everard Home's Group.</p> +<p>SIR CHARLES HARDY'S ISLANDS are high and rocky, and may be +seen five or six leagues off; the summit is in latitude 11 +degrees 53 minutes 20 seconds, and longitude 143 degrees 23 +minutes 40 seconds.</p> +<p>r is a covered reef; and s, a reef, with a dry sandy key upon +it.</p> +<p>COCKBURN ISLES are rocky, and may be seen four leagues +off.*</p> +<blockquote>(*Footnote. There is a dry sand bearing South-West by +West 1/2 West, two miles and a half from the southernmost +Cockburn Island, and there are many shoals of great extent to the +northward of the group. Roe manuscript.)</blockquote> +<p>t and u are two reefs that were seen at a distance, and +appeared to be detached from each other.</p> +<p>BIRD ISLES (the Lagoon Islands of Lieutenant Bligh) consist of +three low bushy islets encompassed by a reef: the islands are at +the outer verge of the reef, and may be passed within a quarter +of a mile; the north-east island is in latitude 11 degrees 44 +minutes 15 seconds, and longitude 142 degrees 58 minutes 45 +seconds.</p> +<p>McARTHUR'S ISLES consist of four low bushy islets, of which +two are very small; they are encompassed by a reef of more than +three miles long, and are separated from the Bird Isles by a +channel three miles and a half wide.</p> +<p>HANNIBAL'S ISLES are three in number, low and covered with +bushes, the easternmost is near the extremity of the reef +encircling the whole, and is in latitude 11 degrees 34 minutes 15 +seconds, and longitude 142 degrees 51 minutes 20 seconds.*</p> +<blockquote>(*Footnote. There is a dry sand at one mile and +three-quarters, and another at two miles and a half +North-North-West from North Hannibal Island.)</blockquote> +<p>v and w; these shoals are separated by a safe channel of a +mile and a quarter wide; v is circular, and has a dry sand at its +north-west edge, and a rocky key at its south-west end; the +channel between it and Hannibal's Islands is two miles and a half +wide: w is nearly four miles long, and is entirely covered; the +course between them is west, but, by hauling close round the east +end of v, a West by North 1/2 North course will carry a vessel a +quarter of a mile to leeward of the west end of w; the north-west +extreme of w is three miles and a quarter South 35 degrees West +from Islet 1.</p> +<p>The islets 1 and 2 are contained in a triangular-shaped reef, +of about a mile and three quarters in extent; they are covered +with low trees. Islet 1 is in latitude 11 degrees 28 minutes 45 +seconds. Number 3 is a sandy islet crowned with bushes at the +north-west end of a coral reef of about a mile and a half in +length. Between the two latter reefs there appeared to be a +channel of a mile wide in the direction of about North-West. 4, +5, and 6, are sandy islets covered with bushes, on small detached +reefs, with, apparently, a passage between each: 4 is in latitude +11 degrees 22 minutes 30 seconds. 7, a small bushy island,* is +separated from CAIRNCROSS ISLAND by a channel two miles wide. The +latter is a small woody island, situated at the north-west end of +a coral reef, more than two miles long and one broad; the +north-west point of the reef runs off with a sharp point for +about a quarter of a mile from the islet. There is good anchorage +under it, but the depth is fifteen fathoms, and the sea is rather +heavy at times with the tide setting against the wind; the +latitude of its centre is 11 degrees 33 minutes 30 seconds, and +its longitude 142 degrees 50 minutes 35 seconds. (See volume 1 +and above.)</p> +<blockquote>(*Footnote. A rocky reef extends for two miles to the +southward of islet 7. Roe manuscript.)</blockquote> +<p>8, 9, and 10, are low, woody islets: 8 is five miles to the +eastward of Cairncross Island; 9 and 10 are to the northward of +8.</p> +<p>11 is also low and woody, but its position was not clearly +ascertained.</p> +<p>ORFORDNESS is a sandy projection of the coast under +Pudding-pan Hill (of Bligh) the shape of which, being +flat-topped, is very remarkable: the hill is in latitude 11 +degrees 18 minutes 30 seconds, and longitude 142 degrees 43 +minutes 35 seconds.</p> +<p>The country between Cape Grenville and Cape York is low and +sandy, with but few sinuosities in its coast line: it is exposed +to the trade wind, which often blows with great strength, from +South-East and South-East by East.</p> +<p>ESCAPE RIVER, in 10 degrees 57 1/2 minutes, is an opening in +the land of one mile in breadth, trending in for two or three +miles, when it turns to the north, and is concealed from the +view; the land on the north side of the entrance is probably an +island, for an opening was observed in Newcastle Bay, trending to +the south, which may communicate with the river. The entrance is +defended by a bar, on which the Mermaid was nearly lost. (Volume +1.) The deepest channel may probably be near the south head, +which is rocky. The banks on the south side are wooded, and +present an inviting aspect.</p> +<p>NEWCASTLE BAY is nine miles in extent by six deep; its shores +are low, and apparently of a sandy character; at the bottom there +is a considerable opening bearing West 1/4 North eight miles and +a half from Turtle Island.</p> +<p>Off the south head of the bay is TURTLE ISLAND, a small rocky +islet on the east side of an extensive reef, in latitude 10 +degrees 54 minutes, and longitude 142 degrees 38 minutes 40 +seconds; it is separated by a channel three miles wide from reef +x, which has a dry sand at its north end, in latitude 10 degrees +53 minutes, and longitude 142 degrees 42 minutes, it has also +some dry rocks and a mangrove bush on the inner part of its south +end.</p> +<p>Four miles to the north of x are two shoals y and Z, both of +which are covered; y is two miles and a half long, and three +miles and a quarter; neither of them appeared to be a mile in +width; the north-west end of z, when in a line with Mount +Adolphus, bears North 19 degrees West.</p> +<p>Off the north head of Newcastle Bay, which forms the +south-east trend of the land of Cape York, is a group of high +rocky islands, ALBANY ISLES; and immediately off the point is a +reef, which extends for about a mile; half a mile without its +edge, we had ten fathoms.</p> +<p>The islets 12, 13, and 15, were only seen at a distance.</p> +<p>THE BROTHERS, so called in Lieutenant Bligh's chart, are two +high rocks upon a reef.</p> +<p>ALBANY ISLES contain six islands, of which one only is of +large size; the easternmost has a small peak, and a reef extends +for less than a quarter of a mile from it; the peak is in +latitude 10 degrees 43 minutes 45 seconds, and longitude 142 +degrees 35 minutes 5 seconds.</p> +<p>YORK ISLES is a group about seven miles from the mainland; the +principal island, which is not more than two miles long, has a +very conspicuous flat-topped hill upon it, MOUNT ADOLPHUS,* in +latitude 10 degrees 38 minutes 20 seconds, and longitude 142 +degrees 36 minutes 25 seconds. Off the south-east end of this +island are two rocky islets, the southernmost of which is more +than a mile distant; the northern group of the York Isles are +laid down from Captain Flinders.</p> +<blockquote>(*Footnote. There is a bay on the west side or Mount +Adolphus, but it appeared shoal. Roe manuscript.)</blockquote> +<p>CAPE YORK, the northernmost land of New South Wales, has a +conical hill half a mile within its extremity, the situation of +which is in 10 degrees 42 minutes 40 seconds South, and 142 +degrees 28 minutes 50 seconds East of Greenwich. There is also an +island close to the point with a conical hill upon it, which has +perhaps been hitherto taken for the cape; from which it is +separated by a shoal strait half a mile wide; the latitude of the +summit is 10 degrees 41 minutes 35 seconds, and longitude 142 +degrees 28 minutes 25 seconds. From this island a considerable +shoal extends to the westward for six miles towards a peaked hill +on the extremity of a point. In the centre of this shoal are some +dry rocks.</p> +<p>At the distance of nearly five miles from the above island is +the rocky islet a, in latitude 10 degrees 36 minutes 50 seconds, +and longitude 142 degrees 27 minutes 45 seconds; it is of small +size, and surrounded by deep water; and, being easily seen from +the strait between Cape York and the York Isles, serves to direct +the course.</p> +<p>POSSESSION ISLES consist of nine or ten islets, of which 2 and +7 only are of large size, and neither of these are two miles +long; they are also higher than the others. Number 1 is a small +conical hill; 2 is hummocky; 3, 4, and 6, are very small; 5 makes +with a hollow in its centre, like the seat of a saddle. The +passage between 2 and the small islets 3 and 4 is the best; there +is six and seven fathoms water; but in passing this, it must be +recollected that the tide sets towards the islands on the +northern side.</p> +<p>ENDEAVOUR STRAIT is on the south side of Prince of Wales' +Islands: a shoal extends from Cape Cornwall (latitude 10 degrees +45 minutes 45 seconds, longitude 142 degrees 8 minutes 35 +seconds) to the westward, and is probably connected with a strip +of sand that stretches from Wallis' Isles to Shoal Cape. We +crossed it with the cape bearing about East, when the least depth +was four fathoms; but on many parts there are not more than three +fathoms. Variation 5 degrees 38 minutes West.</p> +<p>PRINCE OF WALES ISLANDS are much intersected by straits and +openings, that are very little known; there was an appearance of +a good port, a little to the South-West of HORNED HILL (latitude +10 degrees 36 minutes 35 seconds, longitude 142 degrees 15 +minutes) which may probably communicate with Wolf's Bay; the +strait to the south of Wednesday Island also offers a good port +in the eastern entrance of some rocky islands and without them is +the rock b, with some sunken dangers near it.</p> +<p>WEDNESDAY ISLAND; its north end, in latitude 10 degrees 30 +minutes 10 seconds, and longitude 142 degrees 15 minutes, may be +approached close, but a considerable shoal stretches off its +western side, the greater part of which is dry.</p> +<p>Off HAMMOND'S ISLAND is a high, conspicuous rock, bearing West +3/4 South, and five miles and three-quarters from the north end +of Wednesday Island. Captain Flinders passed through the strait +separating Wednesday Island from Hammond's Islands, and had four, +five, and six fathoms.</p> +<p>Abreast of the strait separating GOOD'S ISLAND from the latter +is the reef c, on which are several dry rocks, but abreast of it, +and one mile and one quarter from it, is the reef d,* which is +generally covered; the latter bears South 75 degrees West three +miles and a quarter from the rock off Hammond's Island, and about +North 45 degrees West two and a quarter miles from the opening +between Good and Hammond's Island; the marks for avoiding it are +given in the sailing directions.</p> +<blockquote>(*Footnote. d consists of three small detached +patches, that extend farther off than is at first observed. There +is also a narrow strip of rocks extending for a short distance +off the north-east end of the reef off Hammond's Island. Roe +manuscript.)</blockquote> +Abreast of Wednesday, Hammond, and Good's Islands, is the +NORTH-WEST REEF, an extensive coral bank, many parts of which are +dry; it is ten or eleven miles long; the channel between it and +the islands is from one mile and three-quarters to two miles and +a quarter wide. +<p>BOOBY ISLAND (latitude of its centre 10 degrees 36 minutes, +longitude 141 degrees 52 minutes 50 seconds) is a small rocky +islet of scarcely a third of a mile in diameter; its south-west +end has a shoal projecting from it for half a mile, but its other +sides are bold to. In a North 70 degrees East direction from it, +at the distance of two miles and three-quarters, is a sandbank +with three fathoms; it was discovered by the ships Claudine and +Mary, on their passage through Torres Strait, when it was named +LARPENT'S BANK.*</p> +<blockquote>(*Footnote. It is near the west end of a shoal of +five miles in length, extending in an east and west direction, a +few feet only below the surface of the water. Roe +manuscript.)</blockquote> +<hr align="center" width="20%"> +<h4>APPENDIX A. SECTION 3.</h4> +<p align="center">DESCRIPTION OF THE WINDS AND WEATHER, AND OF +THE PORTS AND COAST BETWEEN WESSEL'S ISLANDS AND CLARENCE +STRAIT.</p> +<p>In the sea that separates the land of New Guinea and the +islands of Timor Laut and Arroo from the north coast of +Australia, the winds are periodical, and are called the east and +west monsoons, for such is their direction in the mid-sea. Near +the Coast of New Holland the regularity of these winds is partly +suspended by the rarefied state of the atmosphere; this produces +land and sea-breezes, but the former are principally from the +quarter from which the winds are blowing in the mid sea. The +usual course of the winds near the coast in the months of April, +May, and June, is as follows: after a calm night, the land-wind +springs up at daylight from South or South-South-East; it then +usually freshens, but, as the sun gets higher, and the land +becomes heated, gradually decreases. At noon the sea-wind rushes +in towards the land, and generally blows fresh from East; at +sunset it veers to the North-East, and falls calm, which lasts +the whole night, so that if a ship, making a course, does not +keep at a moderate distance from the land, she is subject to +delay; she would not, however, probably have so fresh a breeze in +the day time. Later in the season of the easterly monsoon, in +August, September, and October, calms are frequent, and the heat +is sultry and oppressive; this weather sometimes lasts for a +fortnight or three weeks at a time. The easterly monsoon +commences about the 1st of April, with squally, rainy weather, +but, in a week or ten days, settles to fine weather and steady +winds in the offing, and regular land and sea breezes, as above +described, near the coast. It ceases about the latter end of +November or early part of December; the westerly monsoon may then +be expected to blow strong, and perhaps with regularity. This is +the rainy season, and is doubtless an unwholesome time; Captain +Flinders' crew experienced much sickness in his examination of +the Gulf of Carpentaria during this monsoon, but, when upon the +western side of the gulf, he thought that the fine weather then +experienced might be occasioned by the monsoon's blowing over the +land. In January and February the monsoon is at its strength, but +declines towards the end of the latter month, and in March +becomes variable, with dark, cloudy, and unsettled weather; the +wind is then generally from the South-West, but not at all +regular.</p> +<p>The current sets with the wind, and seldom exceeds a knot or a +knot and a half per hour; between Capes Wessel and Van Diemen it +is not stronger, and its course in the easterly monsoon, when +only we had any experience of it, was West: the strength is +probably increased or diminished by the state of the wind.</p> +<p>The tides are of trifling consequence; the flood comes from +the eastward, but rarely rises more than ten feet, or runs so +much as a mile and a half per hour. High water takes place at +full and change at Liverpool River, and Goulburn Island at six +o'clock, at the entrance of the Alligator Rivers in Van Diemen's +Gulf, at 8 hours 15 minutes, and at the south end of Apsley +Strait at 3 hours 25 minutes.* The flood-tide comes from the +eastward, excepting when its course is altered by local +circumstances; the rise is not more than eleven feet at the +springs.</p> +<blockquote>(*Footnote. In St. Asaph's Bay, Lieutenant Roe found +high-water take place at full and change at 5 hours 45 minutes; +and in King's Cove at 5 hours 15 minutes; at the latter place it +rose fourteen feet.)</blockquote> +<p>The variation of the compass in this interval is scarcely +affected by the ship's local attraction. Off Cape Wessel it is +between 3 and 4 degrees East; at Liverpool River about 1 3/4 +degrees East, at Goulburn Islands 2 degrees East, and off Cape +Van Diemen, not more than 1 1/2 degrees East.</p> +<p>The dip of the south end of the needle at Goulburn Island was +27 degrees 32 1/2 minutes.</p> +<p>When the survey of the Gulf of Carpentaria was completed by +Captain Flinders, his vessel proved to be so unfit for continuing +the examination of the north coast, that it was found necessary +to return to Port Jackson; and as he left it at the strait that +separates Point Dale from Wessel's Islands, which is called in my +chart BROWN'S STRAIT, he saw no part of the coast to the westward +of that point, nor did he even see Cape Wessel, the extremity of +the range of Wessel's Islands, which terminate in latitude 10 +degrees 59 1/4 minutes, and longitude 135 degrees 46 minutes 30 +seconds. The group consists of four islands, besides some of +smaller size to the southward of the northernmost, and also a few +on the eastern side of Brown's Strait; one of which is +Cunningham's Island, of Captain Flinders. CUMBERLAND STRAIT is in +latitude 11 degrees 25 minutes, longitude 135 degrees 31 +minutes.</p> +<p>POINT DALE, unless it is upon an island, appears to be the +east extremity of the north coast; its latitude is 11 degrees 36 +minutes, longitude 135 degrees 9 minutes: there are several rocky +islands of small size, lying off, encompassed by a reef, which +extends for eight miles North-North-East 1/2 East from the point. +In Brown's Strait the tide sets at the rate of three and a half +and four miles per hour; the flood runs to the southward through +the strait. To the westward of Point Dale the coast extends for +about sixty miles to the south-west to Castlereagh Bay; in which +space there are several openings in the beach, that are probably +small rivers: one, ten miles to the South-West, may be a strait +insulating Point Dale, and communicating with Arnhem Bay.</p> +<p>CASTLEREAGH BAY is forty miles wide, by about eighteen deep; +it is fronted by a group of straggling islands of low coral +formation, crowned with small trees and bushes: the centre of the +northernmost islet is in latitude 11 degrees 41 minutes 50 +seconds, longitude 134 degrees 10 minutes 5 seconds. To the +eastward of Cape Stewart, the western head of the bay, the coast +is very much indented, and probably contains several openings or +rivulets, particularly two at the bottom of the bay. The beach is +generally sandy, with rocky points, and the shore is wooded to +the beach; the interior was in no part visible over the coast +hills, which are very low and level. From the extremity of CAPE +STEWART, which is in latitude 11 degrees 56 minutes, and +longitude 133 degrees 48 minutes, a reef extends to the West by +North 1/2 North for eight miles and a half; having, at a mile +within the extremity, a low sandy key, with a small dry rock half +a mile to the eastward. Every other part of the reef is +covered.</p> +<p>To the westward of Cape Stewart is a sandy bay nearly eleven +leagues in extent, but not more than seven deep; near its western +end there is a small break in the beach, but it did not appear to +be of any consequence.</p> +<p>The extreme point of this bight is the eastern head of +LIVERPOOL RIVER, whose entrance is to the westward of Haul-round +Islet; which, as well as Entrance Island, is connected to the +above point by a shoal. Haul-round Islet is in latitude 11 +degrees 54 minutes, and longitude 134 degrees 14 minutes; +Entrance Island is in latitude 11 degrees 57 minutes, and +longitude 134 degrees 14 minutes 50 seconds. The entrance is from +one and a quarter to two miles wide. The reef extends for half a +mile from Haul-round Islet, close without which the water is +deep, the least depth in the entrance is five and three-quarter +fathoms; and, in some parts there are thirteen and fourteen +fathoms: at seven miles within Haul-round Islet, the depth +decreases to four fathoms, and then gradually shoals to three; +after which it varies in the channel of the river to between nine +and twelve feet at low water. A bar crosses the river at the low +mangrove island, over which there is not more than three feet at +low water; but, as the tide rises more than eight feet at the +springs, vessels drawing ten or eleven feet may proceed up the +river.</p> +<p>The stream runs in a very tortuous course for upwards of forty +miles, but as our examination was unassisted by bearings or +observations, it is laid down from an eye sketch. POINT +BRAITHWAITE, in latitude 11 degrees 45 minutes 50 seconds, and +longitude 133 degrees 55 minutes 20 seconds, is twenty miles to +the westward of Haul-round Islet; to the southward of it is +Junction Bay, which was not examined. For the next thirty miles +the coast is very much indented, and has some deep bays on either +side of Point Barclay, as also one to the eastward of Point +Turner, at the bottom of which an opening, a mile in width, is +probably a river. Here also the feature of the coast is altered, +being low and level to the eastward as far as Point Dale, without +a hill or rising ground in the interior to relieve its monotonous +appearance. At this place, however, a range of rocky hills, +WELLINGTON RANGE, commences, of about twenty miles in extent: +five miles behind it is the Tor (latitude 11 degrees 54 minutes, +and longitude 133 degrees 10 minutes 20 seconds) a solitary +pyramidal rock; and seven miles and a quarter West by South, from +the latter is a peak-topped hill.</p> +<p>The two latter are apparently unconnected with the range, on +which there are four remarkable ridges, of which the two +westernmost are the most remarkable.</p> +<p>GOULBURN ISLANDS consist of two islands, each being about +twenty miles in circumference; they are separated from each other +by a rocky strait three miles wide, which in most parts is deep +enough for a ship of any size to pass through; the latitude of +the centre of this strait is 11 degrees 32 minutes. Macquarie +Strait separates the southernmost from the main, and is nearly +two miles across: the depth in mid-channel being eighteen +fathoms: the latitude of Retaliation Point, which is on the +northern side of the strait, is in 11 degrees 39 minutes.</p> +<p>SOUTH WEST BAY affords good anchorage in five and six fathoms +at a mile from the shore, and vessels may anchor at a quarter of +a mile off the beach in three fathoms muddy bottom. At the north +end of the bay are the Bottle Rocks separated from the point by a +channel two and a quarter fathoms deep. The Bottle Rock was one +of our fixed points, and is placed in latitude 11 degrees 37 +minutes 24 seconds, and longitude 133 degrees 19 minutes 40 +seconds. The bay affords a convenient place for wooding and +watering; the latter may be had during the early months of the +dry season (as late as August) from a drain at the base of the +Pipe Clay Cliffs at the north end of the bay. There are also some +holes on Sims Island that contain water for a much later period. +The holes have been made by the Malays for the purpose of +collecting it.</p> +<p>MULLET BAY is on the west side of the north island, affording +good anchorage in the easterly monsoon in six and seven fathoms +mud, at a mile from the shore. The flood-tide here sets to the +eastward, and it is high water at full and change in the strait +at six o'clock; the rise of the tide is not more than five or six +feet. The north-east point of North Goulburn Island is in +latitude 11 degrees 26 minutes, longitude 133 degrees 26 +minutes.</p> +<p>From Macquarie Strait the land trends to the westward, and +north-westward to De Courcy Head, and forms but few sinuosities. +POINT BROGDEN, in latitude 11 degrees 30 minutes, the only +projection in this space, is remarkable for being higher than +usual, and for having a range of cliffs to the southward of the +point; with a solitary tree near its extremity, hence the land is +rocky towards De Courcy Head, which is a cliffy projection in +latitude 11 degrees 17 minutes 30 seconds; thence the shore +continues rocky to Cape Cockburn, a low rocky point, with a +conspicuous tree at its extremity. The point is wooded to within +a short distance of the sea, as is generally the case with the +shores of this coast. CAPE COCKBURN is in latitude 11 degrees 18 +minutes, and longitude 132 degrees 53 minutes 5 seconds.</p> +<p>MOUNTNORRIS BAY extends between Cape Cockburn and Cape Croker, +it is twenty-eight miles wide, and twenty-three deep. It contains +several islands, and is also fronted by a group, of which New +Year's Island, the latitude of whose centre is 10 degrees 55 +minutes, and longitude 133 degrees 0 minutes 36 seconds, is the +outermost; the others are named Oxley, Lawson, McCluer, Grant, +Templer, and Cowlard. They are straggling, and have wide and +apparently deep channels between them. Between New Year's and +McCluer's Islands, the channel is nearly eight miles wide and +eighteen and nineteen fathoms deep. A reef extends off the +north-west end of the latter island for nearly three miles, and +the ground is rocky and shoal for some distance off the +north-east end of Oxley's Island. Grant's Island is higher than +the others, which are merely small woody islets, the centre is in +11 degrees 10 minutes. At the north-east end of Mountnorris Bay +is MALAY BAY which is four miles wide and six deep; it affords +good anchorage in four and five fathoms in the centre: as it +offered no other inducement, we did not land upon any part of it. +Between Valentia Island and Point Annesley, the channel is more +than a mile wide and four fathoms deep. VALENTIA ISLAND has a +reef off its north point, and another off its south-east point, +each about a mile in extent.</p> +<p>COPELAND ISLAND is small and wedge-shaped, its summit is in +latitude 11 degrees 28 minutes, and longitude 132 degrees 43 +minutes; four miles and a quarter West-North-West from it is a +covered sandbank having nine feet water near its edge; it was not +quite certain whether it was joined to the land or not, from +which it is distant two miles and a half.</p> +<p>On the western side of the bay there is a strait two miles +wide separating Croker's Island from the main; it is ten or +eleven miles in length, and is navigable since the Malay fleet +were observed to pass through it.</p> +<p>CROKER'S ISLAND is twenty-one miles and a quarter from north +to south, and from two to five broad, its northern extremity is +in 10 degrees 58 minutes 30 seconds latitude, and 132 degrees 34 +minutes 10 seconds longitude; about three-quarters of a mile +within it there is a remarkable rocky knob: its south extreme is +in 11 degrees 19 1/4 minutes.</p> +<p>PALM BAY, on its western side, is an excellent anchorage in +the easterly monsoon; it is four miles and a half wide, and +nearly three deep. The shore is rocky for a mile off, and the +south point has a rocky shoal projecting to the West-North-West +for a mile and a quarter.</p> +<p>DARCH'S ISLAND is separated from Croker's Island by a +navigable strait two miles wide; near the reef at the north-east +end we had six fathoms, but in mid-channel the depth was as much +as eleven fathoms. A considerable reef projects off the east end +for more than a mile. The island is about two miles and +three-quarters long, and is thickly wooded; its north point is in +latitude 11 degrees 7 minutes 30 seconds.</p> +<p>RAFFLES BAY forms a good port during any season; it is seven +miles deep, and from two to three broad: beyond High Point the +depth is not more than three fathoms and a half. The anchorage is +however quite safe.</p> +<p>The bay to the eastward of Point Smith, which has a reef +extending from it for nearly a mile, has a shoal opening at its +bottom of very little importance. At the north-east end of the +bay, separated from the point by a channel a mile wide, and more +than five fathoms deep, is a small sandy island, with a reef +extending for a mile off its north end.</p> +<p>PORT ESSINGTON, the outer heads of which, Vashon Head and +Point Smith, are seven miles apart, is an extensive port, +thirteen miles and a quarter deep, and from five to three wide; +independent of its Inner Harbour, which, with a navigable +entrance of a mile wide, is five miles deep and four wide. The +port is not only capacious, but has very few shoals or dangers in +it.</p> +<p>On the western side, off Island Point, there are some rocks, +and also a reef projects for a mile off the bluff point that +forms the east head of Knocker's Bay. The western side of the +entrance to Inner Harbour, is also rocky and shoal for two-thirds +across, but near the opposite point* the depth is thirteen +fathoms.</p> +<blockquote>(*Footnote. This is Point Record of Captain Bremer, +see above.)</blockquote> +<p>On the eastern side of the port there is no danger beyond a +quarter of a mile from the shore, excepting a reef of rocks, some +of which are dry; this danger, when in a line with a remarkable +cliff two miles and a quarter to the south of Table Point, bears +East-South-East 1/2 East; close without them the depth is five +fathoms.</p> +<p>The INNER HARBOUR is divided into two basins which extend in +for two miles on either side of Middle Head, a cliffy projection, +surrounded by a rocky shore for a quarter of a mile off. The +anchorage between the entrance and Middle Head is in five and six +fathoms mud, and in the centre of the western basin the depth is +five fathoms mud. The shores are higher than usual, and are +varied by sandy beaches and cliffs, some of white and others of a +red colour. The western side of the port was not visited, and our +tracks and examinations were made principally on the opposite +shore. At the bottom of Knocker's Bay is a shoal mangrove +opening, of no importance. See volume 1. POINT SMITH is in +latitude 11 degrees 6 minutes 45 seconds, and longitude 132 +degrees 12 minutes 30 seconds.</p> +<p>VASHON HEAD has a considerable shoal projecting from it, and +extending into the bay to the westward which was called TREPANG +BAY. This bay has an opening at the bottom, that appeared to be +shoal. A small sandy island lies at the distance of a mile and +three-quarters from the shore; the reef projects into the sea for +nearly a mile farther, and apparently extends to the South-West +to the north head of POPHAM BAY, which has a small opening at the +bottom, but of shoal approach; good anchorage may be had in +Popham Bay in five and six fathoms, a little within the heads, +and as they bear North and South-South-West, it is well sheltered +in the easterly monsoon. Hence to CAPE DON is three miles and a +half. The latter cape is in latitude 11 degrees 19 minutes 30 +seconds, and longitude 131 degrees 45 minutes 30 seconds.</p> +<p>VAN DIEMEN'S GULF is seventy miles deep, and more than forty +broad. It has two outlets to sea; the one to the northward, +DUNDAS STRAIT, is sixteen miles wide and very deep; the other, +CLARENCE STRAIT, is seventeen miles wide, and communicates with +the sea round the south sides of Melville and Bathurst Islands: +it is probably not so safe as Dundas' Strait, on account of +Vernon's Isles, which lie in mid channel, near its western +end.</p> +<p>The north eastern side of Van Diemen's Gulf washes the south +side of Coburg Peninsula. It has several bays, and, to the +eastward of MOUNTS BEDWELL and Roe, the shore is fronted by SIR +GEORGE HOPE'S ISLANDS, forming a channel or port within them +twenty miles deep and from three to six broad; the entrance to it +is round the north end of GREENHILL ISLAND, which is separated +from the land of the peninsula, by a strait a mile and a half +wide: the depth in mid-channel, for the shore on either side for +half a mile is shoal and rocky, is eighteen fathoms, and within +it the bottom is six, seven, and eight fathoms deep, and +principally of mud. This strait is in latitude 11 degrees 35 +minutes.</p> +<p>The eastern side has several openings in it, but the shores +are very low, and of shoal approach. At its south-east end are +the two (and probably three) Alligator Rivers; the westernmost +(or centre) is fronted by FIELD ISLAND, the centre of which is in +12 degrees 6 minutes latitude, and 132 degrees 25 minutes 10 +seconds longitude. These rivers have been described in the +narrative. See volume 1. The bottom of the gulf is very low, and +forms two bights, separated by a point that projects for seven or +eight miles.</p> +<p>In the neighbourhood of the rivers the country is sprinkled +with wooded hills, that extend in a straggling chain towards +Wellington Range, of which they might be considered a part: but +between the rivers and Clarence Strait the country is low and +flat, and only protected from inroads of the sea by a barrier of +sandhills, beyond which not a vestige of the interior could be +seen.</p> +<p>CLARENCE STRAIT separates Bathurst and Melville Islands from +the mainland: it is seventy-five miles long, and from seventeen +to thirty-five wide. The narrowest part is at about its centre, +between Cape Gambier and Cape Eldon, and in this space is a group +of four low rocky islands, covered with mangroves (Vernon's +Islands) from which considerable reefs extend towards either +shore.</p> +<p>The best channel is probably on the northern side, near Cape +Gambier, which is in latitude 11 degrees 56 minutes 20 seconds; +and there also appeared to be a wide and safe channel on the +south side; but the neighbourhood of Vernon's Islands is rocky. +The flood-tide sets to the eastward into the gulf.</p> +<p>MELVILLE ISLAND is of considerable size, and forms the western +side of Van Diemen's Gulf; its greatest length from Cape Van +Diemen to Cape Keith being seventy-two miles, and its greatest +breadth thirty-eight miles; its circumference is two hundred +miles.</p> +<p>We did not land on any part of it, excepting in the entrance +of Apsley Strait, at Luxmoore Head (latitude 11 degrees 21 +minutes, longitude 130 degrees 22 minutes) from which we were +driven by the natives. It appeared fertile and more elevated than +the coast to the eastward, and to possess several good harbours, +particularly Apsley Strait, besides several bays on its north +coast; and from the appearance of the land on its east side, and +the extent and abrupt shape of the hills, it is probable that +there may be a port there also. BRENTON BAY is the mouth of a +small inlet, which may probably prove to be a fresh-water stream; +and the bottom of LETHBRIDGE BAY appeared likely to yield one +also. The hills and coast are wooded to the brink of the cliffs +and sandy beaches that vary the northern shores of Melville +Island. The most unproductive part appeared to be the narrow +strip that extends towards Cape Van Diemen. On either side of the +point, near Karslake Island, is a bay, and at the bottom of each +there is an opening in the land, like those of Brenton and +Lethbridge Bays.</p> +<p>The western trend of CAPE VAN DIEMEN is in latitude 11 degrees +8 minutes 15 seconds, and longitude 130 degrees 20 minutes 30 +seconds. The coast to the south-east of the cape is formed by a +range of cliffs, extending uninterruptedly for seven miles, of a +most remarkable white appearance, whiter even than the usual +colour of the pipe-clay cliffs to the eastward. Cape Van Diemen +is a low sandy point, with a shoal spit projecting from it for +four miles, within half a mile of the extremity of which we had +no bottom with ten fathoms: from this a very considerable shoal +(MERMAID'S SHOAL) extends to the westward and south-westward for +seventeen miles; and, curving round to PIPER'S HEAD, forms the +northern limit of the entrance to Apsley Strait: its western edge +is rather steep; we coasted along it, and had overfalls between +ten and four fathoms near its edge. It is not only possible, but +very likely, that there are channels through it, but the most +direct channel is round its south side, across the bar, on which +there is (at low water) five fathoms. To sail into APSLEY STRAIT +by this channel, if coming from the westward, steer in on the +parallel of 11 degrees 15 minutes, until the northern part of +Bathurst Island is seen: when the western trend of the island +bears South, you will be abreast of the west extremity of the +shoal off Cape Van Diemen. Steering on, you will see Piper's +Head, a cliffy point, forming the north entrance to the strait, +which must be kept upon the bearing of East by North, until the +low, sandy, south point of the strait's entrance* is in a line +with the summit of LUXMOORE HEAD, a remarkable flat-topped hill +on the eastern side of the strait, bearing South 59 degrees East. +Then steer East by South, keeping the lead going, and hauling to +the north if the soundings are less than seven fathoms, until the +strait is opened bearing South-East by South, when you may haul +in for Luxmoore Head, and anchor at will.</p> +<blockquote>(*Footnote. Point Brace of Captain +Bremer.)</blockquote> +<p>The narrowest part of the strait is where the low, sandy +extremity, Point Brace, bears South 40 degrees East; the channel +then is from seventeen to eighteen fathoms deep, and shoals +suddenly on its south, but gradually on its north side: it is +about a mile and a half wide.</p> +<p>APSLEY STRAIT is forty miles long, and from one to three +broad; the widest part being at the north end: the southern end, +for five or six miles from the outlet, is very rocky; the south +entrance is in latitude 11 degrees 45 minutes; the flood sets to +the southward, and the ebb, from Van Diemen's Gulf out of +Clarence Strait, runs through the strait to the north, which must +cause many shoals off the south entrance; the depth is generally +from ten to thirteen fathoms, but is very irregular towards the +south end; at low water many parts are dry, which leave the +channels very intricate. We passed over it at high water without +knowing our danger, for the stream of the tide carried us through +the deepest part of the channel.</p> +<p>BATHURST ISLAND is from thirty to thirty-three miles in +extent, having a circumference of a hundred and twenty miles. +GORDON BAY, on its western side, affords a good shelter in the +easterly monsoon; it is ten miles wide, and six deep, and +terminated by PORT HURD, the entrance to which is fronted by a +bar, having twelve or fourteen feet on it at low water. Near the +south-western head of the bay two projecting cliffy points (Twin +Cliffs) terminate a sandy bay, from which wood and, probably, +water may be obtained. PORT HURD, at the bottom of Gordon Bay, in +latitude 11 degrees 39 minutes 30 seconds, is a mere salt-water +inlet, running up in a South-East direction for eight miles; it +then separates into two creeks that wind under each side of a +wooded hill; the entrance is three-quarters of a mile wide, and +formed by two low points. At the back of the port are some wooded +hills; one of them, Mount Hurd, kept in the opening between the +two points of entrance, is the mark for the deepest part of the +bar. When within the entrance the port opens, and forms a basin +two miles and a quarter broad, after which it narrows and runs up +at from half to a quarter of a mile wide, with a channel four and +five fathoms deep.</p> +<p>The country here is thickly wooded, but very low, excepting a +few ranges of hills that may rise to the height of two hundred +feet. The south side of Bathurst Island has no sinuosities.</p> +<p>Near CAPE FOURCROY the coast is formed by sandhills: but, for +the next fifteen miles, it is low and backed by wooded hills.</p> +<hr align="center" width="20%"> +<h4>APPENDIX A. SECTION 4.</h4> +<p align="center">OF THE NATURE OF THE WINDS AND THE DESCRIPTION +OF THE COAST BETWEEN CLARENCE STRAIT AND THE NORTH-WEST CAPE.</p> +<p>NORTH-WEST COAST.</p> +<p>The nature of the winds upon the North-west Coast, that is, +between Cape Van Diemen and the North-west Cape, differs very +materially from the regularity of the monsoons in the sea that +divides it from Timor and the islands to the northward; excepting +in the narrower part between Cape Londonderry and the Sahul Bank, +where, from the contracted nature of the sea, more regular winds +may be expected. The easterly monsoon commences about the +beginning of April, and in the months of May and June blows with +great strength, and will be found more regular close to the +projecting parts of the coast, but they then rather assume the +character of a sea-breeze, for the nights are generally calm.</p> +<p>After the month of June the winds to the westward of Cape +Londonderry are very irregular, and generally blow from the +southward or south-west; they are however more constant to the +westward of Buccaneer's Archipelago, where the seabreezes blow +principally from the North-West along the land. At intervals, +during the east monsoon, the wind blows strong from South-East, +but only for a short time, perhaps only for a few hours. Ships +may creep along the Coast of New Holland to the eastward during +the easterly monsoon, when they could not make any progress in +the mid sea, without being much delayed by calms. Towards the +North-west Cape, neither the monsoon nor the South East trade are +much experienced, the wind being generally from the South-West or +North-West.</p> +<p>During the strength of the westerly monsoon, that is, in the +months of December and January, the wind is regular between +West-North-West and West-South-West, and, in the neighbourhood of +the North-west Cape, sometimes blows hard; but even in these +tropical regions, when the weather is very bad, the change is +predicted by the barometer, which otherwise is scarcely +affected.</p> +<p>In February, near the coast of New Holland, the monsoon is +less constant, and the wind often blows off the land, so that a +ship could make her westing, when, if more to the northward, it +would be impossible for her to gain any ground. At the latter end +of February the westerly winds die away, and are succeeded by +light, baffling, easterly winds, with damp, unwholesome weather, +and attended occasionally by heavy squalls of wind and rain.</p> +<p>If a ship is detained late in the easterly monsoon, and wishes +to get to the westward, she will find the wind more regular and +strong from the eastward in the neighbourhood of Timor, where the +easterly monsoon lasts until the first or second week in +November: in the months of September and October, to the +southward of the parallel of 12 degrees, the winds are almost +constant from South-West. The currents are stronger according to +the regularity and strength of the wind, and generally set at the +rate of one or one knot and a half. The tides in this part of the +coast are noticed in the description of the places where they +were observed. High water at full and change takes place at: The +anchorage off Vansittart Bay at 9 hours 15 minutes.</p> +<p>In Montagu Sound at 12 hours 00 minutes.</p> +<p>In Careening Bay at 12 hours 00 minutes.</p> +<p>In Prince Regent's River at 12 hours 20 minutes.</p> +<p>The rise of the tide, to the westward of Cape Van Diemen, and +particularly to the westward of Cape Bougainville, appeared +gradually to increase: the greatest that we experienced was in +the vicinity of Buccaneer's Archipelago; and at the anchorage in +Camden Bay the tide rose thirty-seven feet; occasioned probably +by the intersected nature of the coast.</p> +<p>The variation in this interval is almost too trifling to be +noticed for the purposes of common navigation. Between Capes +Londonderry and Van Diemen it varies between 1/4 and 1 degree +East. Between the former and Careening Bay it was between 1 and 1 +1/2 degrees East; at Careening Bay the mean of the observations +gave 3/4 of a degree West; but to the westward of that, as far as +Cape Villaret, the results of the observations varied between 1 +degree East and 1 degree West. Near the North-west Cape, and to +the eastward of it as far as Depuch Island, it is about two +degrees Westerly.</p> +<p>On the south-side of Clarence Strait the land is low, like the +coast to the eastward. PATERSON BAY appeared to be the mouth of a +river, but it was not examined. The opening to the eastward of +the projecting point that forms the eastern side of Paterson Bay, +seemed to be a good port; and to have an inlet at its bottom +trending to the South-East.</p> +<p>CAPE GROSE, in latitude 12 degrees 32 minutes 40 seconds, and +longitude 131 degrees 26 minutes, is the western head of Paterson +Bay: it is fronted by reefs that extend for a considerable +distance into the sea; their extremity is nearly nine miles north +from the cape.</p> +<p>Hence the coast extends low and sandy to POINT BLAZE, to the +northward of which there is a bay: to the south the shore is +wooded, and trends for eighteen miles to the north entrance of +Anson Bay, which is formed by PERON ISLANDS; these are low and +sandy; at the extremity of the northern island, there is a sandy +peak in latitude 13 degrees 6 minutes 30 seconds, and longitude +131 degrees 1 minute 20 seconds: the south end is overrun with +mangroves, and it appeared very doubtful whether a channel +existed between it and the smaller island, which is entirely +surrounded by mangroves. This entrance to the bay is very +intricate, and useless, since that to the south of the islands is +so much better. Anson's Bay affords good anchorage, and probably +has a small rivulet at the bottom.</p> +<p>CAPE FORD, in latitude 13 degrees 24 minutes 35 seconds, +longitude 130 degrees 52 minutes 20 seconds, has a reef +projecting for three miles from it: hence the coast trends round +to the southward for thirty miles to a bay, which also has a +small opening at the bottom; five miles inland there is a range +of hills, on which two, of flat-topped summits, are conspicuous; +and, at a distance, assume the appearance of islands. They are +the Barthelemy Hills.</p> +<p>A few miles to the westward is PORT KEATS. TREE POINT, in +latitude 13 degrees 59 minutes 20 seconds, longitude 130 degrees +34 minutes, the eastern head of the port, is surrounded by a +reef, which extends from it for more than three miles. The west +side has also a reef, but of much more considerable size, +stretching to the northward of Cape Hay for fifteen miles; near +its extremity there is a patch of dry rocks, occupying an extent +of two miles. The channel within the heads is from two to four +miles wide, and has anchorage in it between six and seven +fathoms, mud. The port gradually contracts as it approaches the +narrow mouth of the inlet to a mile and a half; it then trends to +the south for six miles, where it is divided into two arms, that +run up for six or seven miles more to the foot of a range of +wooded hills, one of which is MOUNT GOODWIN. The western side of +the inlet is occupied by a bank of clay, that dries at low water. +At about three miles within the narrow entrance on the western +side, there is an inlet, and above this the anchorage is good, +the bottom being of clay, in which is mixed a small ironstone +pebble: between the inlet and the narrows, the bottom is deep and +rocky.</p> +<p>Between Cape Hay, in latitude 14 degrees 1 minute 30 seconds, +and longitude 130 degrees 27 minutes 30 seconds, and POINT +PEARCE, in latitude 14 degrees 28 minutes 30 seconds, longitude +130 degrees 17 minutes 15 seconds, the coast is still low, and +was only seen at a distance. Off the latter point there is a reef +which does not extend to a greater distance than a mile and a +half.</p> +<p>To the south of Point Pearce there is a very extensive +opening, which bad weather and other circumstances did not allow +of being examined. It is nearly thirty miles wide, and the depth +across between eight fathoms and twenty. The south shore is lined +by a considerable reef extending for seven miles from the beach. +The land was very indistinctly seen at the back, but, in one +part, there was a space of more than eighteen miles, in which +nothing was visible. The strength of the tide, the bottom being +sandy instead of mud, as in other parts of the neighbourhood, and +the rocky overfalls on either side of the entrance bespeak this +opening to be of considerable size and importance.</p> +<p>The shore to CAPE DOMETT was very indistinctly seen. It +occupies an extent of forty-five miles, and is fronted by +extensive reefs, which project for twenty-three miles; the north +extremity of the shoal water is twenty-six miles, nearly due west +from Cape Pearce. It terminates with a narrow point, and then +trends in to the South-West towards the coast.</p> +<p>The Medusa Bank fronts the entrance of Cambridge Gulf; it +projects from the coast, near Cape Domett, to the North-West for +seventeen miles, and terminates with a narrow spit, thirteen +miles north from Lacrosse Island, in latitude 14 degrees 30 1/2 +minutes. Both these banks are of sand, and their edges are very +steep to. They are covered with large quantities of mollusca, +which are also abundant in the sea in their vicinity.</p> +<p>CAMBRIDGE GULF extends from Lacrosse Island in a +South-South-Westerly direction for sixty-four miles. The +entrance, between Cape Domett and Cape Dussejour, is twelve miles +wide; but Lacrosse Island, under which there is good anchorage +for vessels going in or out of the gulf, divides the entrance +into two channels. The western entrance is about two miles and a +half wide, and is deepest near the island: but, at a mile from +the shore, we had no bottom with fourteen and seventeen fathoms. +The reefs project from Cape Dussejour for nearly three miles. On +the eastern side of Lacrosse Island, within half a mile of the +point, we had seven fathoms, and there was every appearance of +the channel being deep in the neighbourhood of Cape Domett. +Shakspeare Hill, the situation of which is in latitude 14 degrees +47 minutes 55 seconds, and longitude 128 degrees 24 minutes, is a +conspicuous object on this promontory: it is high and rocky, and, +at a distance, has the appearance of being insulated, like +Lacrosse Island.</p> +<p>Having entered the gulf, it trends to the South-South-West for +twenty-three miles to Adolphus Island, where it is divided into +two arms, of which the westernmost is the principal. At ten miles +from Lacrosse Island, the channel is narrowed by shoals to a +width of five miles, the shores being twelve miles apart. The +land on the western side of the gulf is high and rocky; but the +opposite shore is very low, and apparently marshy. The bottom is +of sand, as are the banks on either side, and affords good +anchorage: the tide stream runs with great strength in +mid-channel, but is easily avoided by anchoring upon the weather +shore near the edge of the bank.</p> +<p>The channels on either side of Adolphus Island are called the +East and West Arms. The East Arm is from one to two miles and a +half wide, and four or five fathoms deep. At ten miles it is +joined by an arm that washes the south side of Adolphus Island, +and the united streams trend together in a South-East direction, +under the foot of Mount Connexion, for a considerable distance. +This inlet was not examined. The West Arm extends down the west +side of Adolphus Island for seven miles; it is then divided by a +projecting point under View Hill; and, whilst one runs to the +eastward and unites with the East Arm, the other continues to +trend to the southward, and then opens out to an extensive basin +eleven miles in length, and from four to six in breadth; and, at +seven miles, gradually contracts as it winds under the base of +the Bastion Hills: before, however, you arrive at the basin, the +stream is divided by several islands and rocky islets, that +narrow the channel in some parts to the width of half a mile, in +which the depth is very great, and the tide runs with great +strength.</p> +<p>At the entrance of the basin the high rocky character of the +west shore is superseded by low mangrove banks, with here and +there a detached hill rising from a plain of low marshy land, +that, at the time of our visit, was covered with a salt +incrustation, occasioned by the evaporation of the sea, which, +apparently, had lately flooded the low lands to a great extent: +some of these plains are seven and eight miles in diameter. The +hills rise abruptly; those we examined are of sandstone +formation. The basin is very shoal, but there is a narrow channel +in the centre, with from five to nine fathoms water. The shore, +opposite the Bastion Hills, is low, and the gulf trends gradually +round to the South-West for five miles, when it is contracted +into a narrow communication, called The Gut, leading to an +interior shoal basin, strewed with low marshy islands, which the +tide covers. This basin terminates to the southward in a narrow +stream, winding under the base of Mount Cockburn; and there also +appeared to be several others falling into the basin more to the +westward. The water was salt at the extremity of our exploration. +The Gut leading to it is two miles long, and not so much as a +quarter of a mile wide: in some parts we had nineteen fathoms, +but in others it was deeper; it runs through a chasm in the +hills, which rise abruptly, and occasionally recede and form +bights, in which, in the wet season, the rains form some very +considerable mountain torrents. No fresh water was seen in any +part of the gulf; but as it was near the end of the dry season +when we were there, it might probably be found in a more advanced +season in every part of the western side, where the land is high +and the gullies numerous: there is, however, no durable +freshwater stream without the Gut. An alligator was observed +swimming about, but very few fish were noticed.</p> +<p>The coast extends from Cape Dussejour to Cape Londonderry, a +distance of ninety-five miles, without an opening, and with but +few sinuosities of any consequence. The coast is chiefly rocky, +with here and there a few sandy beaches: but the shore generally +is open and exposed: there are many parts, however, where a boat +might land; particularly behind BUCKLE HEAD, and a little farther +on at REVELEY ISLAND: at the latter place there is a gully in the +hills, at the back of the bay, which may probably produce fresh +water: this bay is near Captain Baudin's MOUNT CASUARINA, a +flat-topped hill, that is conspicuous from the sea. The mount is +only visible between the bearings of South and West-South-West, +and may be seen at the distance of seven or eight leagues. It is +situated at six miles from the shore, in latitude 14 degrees 23 +minutes 15 seconds, and longitude 127 degrees 36 minutes 50 +seconds.</p> +<p>The coast is here but slightly wooded, and sufficiently +elevated to conceal the interior; no part of which, excepting +Mount Casuarina, could be seen. It is fronted by rocks, but they +do not appear to extend more than two miles from the shore. At +CAPE RULHIERES, the coast trends more westerly. To the westward +of this cape are two sandy bays, in which boats might effect a +landing; but they are open and exposed to the northward. To the +eastward of it there are some reefs which project for more than +two miles from the shore; and, at the west head of the +westernmost of the bays, is an island with a reef extending for +nearly three miles from it: behind the island is another bay, +that appeared to be fronted by the above reef. In the offing, and +at the distance of six miles from the shore, is LESUEUR ISLAND; +it is about two miles in circumference, and surrounded by a coral +reef, that extends for one mile and a half from its north-east +end. At this part the coast is more verdant in appearance than to +the eastward of Cape Rulhieres, particularly for ten miles to the +South-East of Cape Londonderry; in which space there are several +sandy bays, with the shores wooded to the brink of the beach: at +about five miles from the cape is a small boat harbour, at the +back of which a gully in the hills appeared promising for the +search for fresh water, more particularly on account of the +verdant appearance of the trees near it.</p> +<p>CAPE LONDONDERRY is a low rocky point; it is easily recognised +by the reef that extends from it, and the trend of the land, +which takes from it a westerly direction; there are also two +small sandy islets, Stewart's Islets, at a little more than two +miles from it, encompassed by the reef. The cape is in 13 degrees +44 minutes South, and 126 degrees 53 minutes 50 seconds East.</p> +<p>The land then extends to the westward for nearly eleven miles, +to CAPE TALBOT; it is fronted by the reef that commences at Cape +Londonderry, and projects from the shore for nearly five miles, +but to the eastward of the cape a ship may approach it within two +miles.</p> +<p>To the south of Cape Talbot the land trends in and forms a bay +twelve miles deep, and wide, that was not examined. It is fronted +by SIR GRAHAM MOORE'S ISLANDS, one of which is eight miles long, +and low, excepting at the east end, where there is a flat-topped +hill; there is also another remarkable summit on a smaller +island, to the north of the principal island.</p> +<p>At twenty miles West-South-West from Cape Talbot is the east +entrance of VANSITTART BAY; it is formed between MARY ISLAND and +the easternmost of the ECLIPSE ISLES (Long Island) but this +space, which is nearly three miles wide, is much occupied by +rocks, so that it is contracted to the width of little more than +half a mile.</p> +<p>The channel to this is between two extensive reefs, the +innermost of which commences at eight miles to the westward of +Cape Talbot, and extends along Sir Graham Moore's Islands to Mary +Island.</p> +<p>The outer reef commences at about twelve miles from the cape, +and extends to the westward, embracing JONES' ISLAND (in latitude +13 degrees 44 minutes, and longitude 126 degrees 23 minutes) and +the Eclipse Isles. The passage is from three and a half to five +miles wide, and is deep and free from danger. The bottom is rocky +until within five miles of the Eclipse Islands, when good +anchorage may be obtained in five and six fathoms, upon a muddy +bottom.</p> +<p>The entrance is between Middle Rock, and a patch of dry rocks +to the eastward of Long Rocks, the distance across being about +half a mile. In entering the bay by this channel, steer so as to +pass round Middle Rock, and upon bringing the peaked summit of +Jar Island, at the bottom of the port, between it and Long Rocks, +bearing South 29 1/2 degrees West, steer directly for Jar Island, +until you are abreast of Middle Rock, when you may haul close +round it, with fourteen and sixteen fathoms: when you have passed +the Long Rocks, a course may be directed at pleasure into the +bay. There is also a deep passage to the westward of Middle Rock; +but it is too narrow to be safe. The tide sets through the +channels with great strength; with the flood-tide there is no +danger, as the stream will carry a vessel through the deepest +part; with the ebb-tide, however, it should not be attempted.</p> +<p>The western entrance to Vansittart Bay is between the land of +CAPE BOUGAINVILLE and the Eclipse Islands: it is three miles and +a half wide, and quite free from danger. The approach to it, +between TROUGHTON ISLAND (latitude 13 degrees 44 minutes 10 +seconds, longitude 126 degrees 11 minutes) and the reefs in the +offing, is six miles wide, and probably quite safe. We did not +ascertain the existence of a channel on the east side of the +island, but it appeared to be free from danger, and, if so, would +be the best approach. ECLIPSE HILL, being higher than the land +near it, and conspicuous from its flat tabular shape, is a good +mark for the port; it is in latitude 13 degrees 54 minutes 20 +seconds and longitude 126 degrees 18 minutes 40 seconds.</p> +<p>Vansittart Bay is eighteen miles deep, and from five to ten +broad; it offers excellent anchorage. The eastern shore is rocky, +and should not be approached nearer than a mile; but the western +shore is steep to, and may be passed very close: on this side the +port there are many coves and bays fit for any purposes. The most +secure anchorage is in the centre of the bay, where there is from +seven to nine fathoms, mud, and the sea-breeze has free access: +but, if a more sheltered place is required, such may be found at +the south-east corner of the bottom of the bay in six and seven +fathoms, mud. High water at full and change takes place in the +eastern entrance, at a quarter past nine o'clock; the tide rises +about six feet.</p> +<p>JAR ISLAND is surrounded by rocks, but to the eastward of it +the channel is twelve fathoms deep. Its summit is in latitude 14 +degrees 7 minutes 10 seconds, longitude 126 degrees 15 minutes 40 +seconds.</p> +<p>The western side of Vansittart Bay is formed by a peninsula, +the extremity of which is Cape Bougainville; the northern part of +this land is fronted by a reef, that extends round it for three +miles from the shore, but the western side appeared to be of bold +approach. The reef commences at Cape Bougainville, and trends +round to Point Gibson, where it terminates. This part of the +coast is fronted by extensive reefs, which render the approach to +it very dangerous: at sixteen miles to the northward of the cape +there is a range, the HOLOTHURIA BANKS, that extend in an east +and west direction for twenty-three miles; their north-east +extent was not ascertained, but the western end, in latitude 13 +degrees 32 minutes, and longitude 125 degrees 46 minutes 45 +seconds, is narrow, and not more than five or six miles +broad.</p> +<p>There is another range of reefs to the westward of the cape, +that extends in a north and south direction for upwards of twenty +miles; and about from three to five miles broad. The water breaks +on many parts of it. Its north extremity, in latitude 13 degrees +41 1/2 minutes, is sixteen miles West 3/4 North from Troughton +Island: in this space the sea is quite clear, and from sixteen to +twenty fathoms deep. The narrowest part of the channel, between +the reef and the peninsula, is at Point Gibson, where it is more +than eight miles wide, and in mid-channel about twenty-three +fathoms deep.</p> +<p>Between Cape Bougainville and Cape Voltaire is the ADMIRALTY +GULF. It is twenty-nine miles wide and twenty-two deep, +independent of Port Warrender. This gulf is thickly strewed with +islands and reefs: a group off Cape Voltaire was seen by the +French and named by them the INSTITUTE ISLANDS, the three +principal of which, of flat-topped shape, are called Descartes, +Fenelon, and Corneille; besides these the Montesquieu Group, and +Pascal and Condillac Islands, were distinguished. On the eastern +side of the gulf, near the shore, are OSBORN'S ISLANDS, which are +high and rocky: the southernmost is remarkable for its steep, +precipitous form, and for its resemblance to Mount Cockburn in +Cambridge Gulf. There is also a conspicuous high bluff on the +principal island, which appears to have been seen by the +French.</p> +<p>In the offing is CASSINI ISLAND; it is rather low and level, +and surrounded by cliffs and rocky shores: on the eastern side +are four sandy beaches, which are very much frequented by turtle: +a reef projects off its north end for a mile and a half. The +anchorage is good near the island, but the water is very deep. +The situation of its centre is in latitude 13 degrees 55 minutes +5 seconds, and longitude 125 degrees 42 minutes.</p> +<p>PORT WARRENDER is an excellent port, and affords good +anchorage in the bay round Crystal Head, in which a vessel is +quite land-locked; but equally secure anchorage may be had for +five miles higher up the port, in from four to seven fathoms, +mud. It extends for six miles farther, but the depth in some +parts is not more than two fathoms.</p> +<p>At eleven miles from the entrance, the port is separated into +two inlets, which wind under the base of a dividing range of +high, steep, and wooded hills; these run up for five miles +higher, when they become mere mangrove creeks. There is probably +another inlet on the east side of Port Warrender which we did not +examine, since it appeared to be less considerable in size, and +important in appearance, than the arm which we had examined. +CRYSTAL HEAD is in latitude 14 degrees 28 minutes, and longitude +125 degrees 55 minutes 30 seconds.</p> +<p>WALMESLY BAY appeared to be a good port also, but it is open +to the eastward. We did not enter it.</p> +<p>CAPE VOLTAIRE is the extremity of a promontory, extending for +more than twenty miles into the sea, and separating the Admiralty +Gulf from Montagu Sound. There is a flat-topped hill near its +extremity, in latitude 14 degrees 14 minutes 30 seconds, and +longitude 125 degrees 40 minutes 12 seconds; and, at three miles +more to the southward, a peaked hill; its shores on either side +are rocky, and indented by bays. At one part the width across to +Walmesly Bay cannot be more than a mile and a half.</p> +<p>The MONTALIVET ISLES, about six leagues from the main, consist +of three rocky islands; they are visible for six or seven leagues +from the deck: the north-easternmost is in latitude 14 degrees 13 +minutes 40 seconds, longitude 125 degrees 19 minutes 30 +seconds.</p> +<p>MONTAGU SOUND extends from Cape Voltaire to the north end of +Bigge's Island, a distance of thirty-one miles, and is from +eleven to twenty miles deep. It is fronted by a range of islands; +the outer range, which is eight miles within the Montalivet +Isles, was called PRUDHOE ISLANDS; besides which there were +several scattered about the sound, and some of larger size near +the main: of the latter are KATER'S and WOLLASTON'S. They are of +a very rocky character, and furnished with but a poor and shallow +soil, although the surface is thickly covered with small trees, +growing most luxuriantly. WATER ISLAND, to the north-east, in +latitude 14 degrees 21 minutes, and longitude 125 degrees 32 +minutes 25 seconds, was visited by us, as was also CAPSTAN +ISLAND, in the south-west corner of the sound. The latter island +is in latitude 14 degrees 35 minutes 20 seconds, and longitude +125 degrees 16 minutes 20 seconds. They are both rocky, and +destitute of any soil but what is formed by the decomposition of +the vegetables that grow upon the island. The channels between +them appeared to be clear and free from hidden danger. The depth +among the islands is from ten to fifteen fathoms on a muddy +bottom; but the anchorage is better between Kater Island and the +promontory that separates it from Walmesly Bay, than any other +part. It is a very fine port, particularly near the bottom, in +SWIFT'S BAY, where the depth is from four to five fathoms at low +water, It is high water at full and change in Swift's Bay at +twelve o'clock, which is two hours and a quarter later than in +Vansittart Bay: the tide rose eighteen feet, whereas in Port +Warrender its rise was only six. The islands off the north-east +end of Bigge's Island are more numerous than in other parts of +the sound: they were only seen at a distance, and too numerous to +give correct positions to. BIGGE'S ISLAND is fourteen miles long, +and from six to seven broad; it is of moderate height, and rocky +character: its south end appeared to be thickly wooded. A +flat-topped hill near the shore of Scott's Strait is a remarkable +object, and may be seen six or seven leagues off. It is in +latitude 14 degrees 39 minutes 20 seconds, and longitude 125 +degrees 10 minutes 20 seconds.</p> +<p>SCOTT'S STRAIT is a channel separating Bigge's Island from the +main: it is thirteen miles long, and from three to one and a +quarter broad. It is of irregular depth, and has some rocks in +mid-channel, which are dry: the deepest channel is near the +eastern shore, the depth being from ten to fourteen fathoms. The +strait does not terminate until you are to the westward of Cape +Pond, for there are several islets off the south end of Bigge's +Island, and a considerable reef, through which, although there +may be deep channels, yet they must be narrow. Off the north-west +end of Bigge's Island are several rocky islets; the outer ones +were seen by me in the Bathurst (see above): they are the MARET +ISLES of Commodore Baudin; they consist of four or five principal +islands, of about two miles in length, besides as many more of +very small size off the south extremity of the group. The +northern point of the northernmost island is in latitude 15 +degrees 7 minutes 15 seconds, and longitude 124 degrees 56 +minutes 40 seconds. The group is fronted on the north-west side +by a considerable reef, extending North by East 1/2 East for +seven miles; the outer edge being three miles and a half to the +westward of the group.</p> +<p>YORK SOUND is fourteen miles wide and ten deep: it is +contained between Cape Pond and the northern extreme of the +Coronation Islands. It is spacious, but the bottom, in the +middle, is rocky: there is, however, very good anchorage near the +Coronation Islands; and there is also, possibly, as good on the +eastern shore to the south of CAPE POND, which has a rocky island +immediately off it, the situation of which is in latitude 14 +degrees 43 minutes 20 seconds, and longitude 125 degrees 9 +minutes 25 seconds.</p> +<p>At the bottom of York Sound is PRINCE FREDERIC'S HARBOUR, a +fine spacious port, fourteen miles long, and from five to seven +broad: it is terminated by two rivers, namely Hunter's and Roe's. +It has several rocky islands on either shore; and, at the bottom, +they are numerous. The tide here rises at the springs twenty-nine +feet. The anchorage is not so good in the entrance of the port, +but a good bottom may be found as soon as Hunter's River begins +to open, and bears East 1/2 North, and when you are within a +small island that is in the centre of the port; but an anchorage +may very probably be obtained on the northern shore, or, indeed, +any where out of the strength of the tides.</p> +<p>HUNTER'S RIVER runs up for about fourteen miles. It is about +one mile and a half wide at the entrance, and preserves that +width for more than four miles, when it suddenly contracts and +becomes shoal, and very tortuous in its course, and winds through +a narrow chasm in the rocks, which rise precipitously in some +parts for at least two or three hundred feet. A vessel may anchor +in seven fathoms near the end of the first reach; its course is +to the East-North-East. There is a remarkable rock at the +entrance, in latitude 15 degrees 1 minute 30 seconds, and +longitude 125 degrees 24 minutes. ROE'S RIVER first trends for +seventeen miles to the East by South, and then, taking a sudden +turn to the south, runs up for thirteen miles more; after which +it trends to the South-East, and was supposed to run up for at +least ten miles farther. Its entrance for seven miles forms a +very good harbour, being from two to six fathoms deep; but, in +anchoring here, it must be recollected that the tide falls +twenty-nine feet. This river, like Hunter's River, is bounded on +either bank by precipitous hills, which, in many parts, are +inaccessible.</p> +<p>Five miles to the westward of Cape Torrens is Point Hardy: off +the latter is an islet; and three miles, North by East 1/2 East +from it, is a reef, on which the sea breaks. This point is the +east head of PORT NELSON, which extends to the southward from it +for eight miles: its western side is formed by the Coronation +Islands: its width is three miles, with good anchorage all over +it. At the bottom is CAREENING BAY, where the Mermaid was +repaired. The latitude of the beach in 15 degrees 6 minutes 18 +seconds, and longitude 125 degrees 0 minutes 46 seconds.* Port +Nelson communicates with the sea to the westward of the +Coronation Islands, which may be considered a strait. At the +south-west end of the southernmost island, where the strait is +narrowest, and not more than one mile and a quarter wide, there +is a patch of rocks in the centre, which always shows: the +channel on the north side of these rocks is the best: the water +is very deep, and the tide sets right through.</p> +<blockquote>(*Footnote. The latitude of the observatory was taken +every day during our stay, using the sea-horizon, but the effect +of refraction was so great that the daily observations varied as +much as 3 minutes 43 seconds. +<p>The mean of 15 meridional altitudes with the sextant made the +latitude 15 degrees 6 minutes 22.5 seconds, and of fourteen +observations with the circle 15 degrees 6 minutes 13.8 seconds. +Mean for the latitude of the observatory 15 degrees 6 minutes 18 +seconds South.</p> +<p>The longitude was deduced by the mean of the observations of +our two visits; namely, in October, 1820, and August, 1821: the +latter were taken at Sight Point, in Prince Regent's River, the +difference of the meridians of the two places, by chronometers +and survey, being 8 minutes 52.8 seconds.</p> +<p>1820. September 28 and 29. By twenty sets of lunar distances +with the sun, containing one hundred sights with the sextant, the +sun being to the east of the moon, the longitude is 125 degrees +11 minutes 24.3 seconds.</p> +<p>1821. August 2nd and 3rd. By seventeen sets of lunar distances +with the sun, containing eighty-five sights with the sextant, the +sun being to the west of the moon, the longitude of Sight Point, +in Prince Regent's River, was found to be 124 degrees 41 minutes +15.3 seconds, or of Careening Bay 124 degrees 50 minutes 8.1 +seconds.</p> +<p>The mean is the longitude of the observatory 125 degrees 0 +minutes 46 seconds East.)</p> +</blockquote> +<p>The CORONATION ISLANDS separate York Sound from Brunswick Bay, +and are situated in front of Port Nelson. The group consists of +seventeen or eighteen islands, besides numerous rocky islets. On +the largest island are two remarkable peaks; the easternmost is +in 14 degrees 59 minutes, and longitude 124 degrees 56 minutes 5 +seconds. The island is eight miles long, and from four to two +wide; the others are from three to one mile in length; they are +covered with vegetation, and the larger islands are well clothed +with trees. The great rise of the tide would render this part of +the coast of importance, was it not for the wretched state of the +country, and the unproductiveness of its soil, which are great +drawbacks upon the advantage of the tide's unusual rise. It is +high water at full and change in Port Nelson at twelve o'clock, +as it is also in Montagu Sound.</p> +<p>Beyond the Coronation Islands there is a string of small, +rocky islands extending for sixteen miles: the westernmost is +Freycinet's Group; the principal island of which Captain De +Freycinet has described as resembling an inverted bowl; and, from +this description, we had no difficulty in finding it out; it is +in latitude 15 degrees 0 minutes 30 seconds, and longitude 124 +degrees 32 minutes 40 seconds. Among the other islands we +distinguished the islets Colbert, Keraudren, and Buffon. On the +last there is a small, grassy, peaked hillock, in latitude 14 +degrees 55 minutes 25 seconds, and longitude 124 degrees 43 +minutes 20 seconds.</p> +<p>We passed out to sea between Freycinet's Group and Keraudren; +and within one mile and a half of the latter had eighteen +fathoms: it appeared, from the colour of the water, to have a +reef projecting to the westward.</p> +<p>BRUNSWICK BAY is at the back of these islands, and extends +from CAPE BREWSTER, in latitude 15 degrees 6 minutes 10 seconds, +and longitude 124 degrees 55 minutes 5 seconds, which terminates +Port Nelson, to Point Adieu. It is an extensive bay or sound, and +is about twenty miles in extent, with good anchorage all over it. +The coast is here very much indented by rivers and bays; among +which may be particularized Prince Regent's River, Hanover Bay, +and Port George the Fourth.</p> +<p>PRINCE REGENT'S RIVER is, without exception, the most +remarkable feature of the North-West Coast. In general the inlets +of this coast form extensive ports at their entrance; and, when +they begin to assume the character of a river, their course +becomes tortuous, and very irregular; of which there cannot be a +better instance than the neighbouring river, Roe's River. Prince +Regent's River trends into the interior in a South-East by East +direction for fifty-four miles. With scarcely a point to +intercept the view, after being thirteen miles within it. The +entrance is formed by Cape Wellington on the east, and High Bluff +on the west, a width of eight miles, but is so much contracted by +islands, that, in hauling round Cape Wellington, the width is +suddenly reduced to little more than a mile: at the branching off +of Rothsay Water, it is little more than half a mile, and also +the same width at the entrance of St. George's Basin. In this +space, however, it is in some parts a little wider, but in no +part between projecting points is it more than one mile and a +quarter. For the first nine miles the stream is narrowed by +islands; beyond this, its boundaries are formed by the natural +banks of the river. On the eastern side, within Cape Wellington, +is a deep bay, but of shoal and rocky appearance. At six miles +farther on are two inlets, ROTHSAY and MUNSTER WATERS, near which +the tide forms rapid eddies and whirlpools, that render its +approach dangerous. In mid-channel is a group of isles; and, off +the easternmost, a reef projects to the eastward for more than +half a mile, round which a vessel must pass; here the channel is +not more than half a mile wide. Munster Water, on the western +side, communicates with Hanover Bay by a narrow strait, with very +good anchorage in it in four and five fathoms mud; it is, +however, an inconvenient place to go to, if a vessel is bound any +farther up the river. Rothsay Water is a very considerable arm; +and was conjectured to communicate with Prince Frederic's +Harbour, and, if so, would insulate the land between Capes +Torrens and Wellington. We did not enter Rothsay Water; and the +tides and whirlpools were too rapid and dangerous to trust our +small boats without running a very great risk. At the entrance of +this arm, on the south shore, there appeared to be a shoal-bank. +Halfway Bay offers very good anchorage out of the strength of the +tides, with abundance of room to get underweigh from. The +northernmost point of the bay, SIGHT POINT, has a small islet off +it (LAMMAS ISLET) where the observations were taken to fix the +longitude of Careening Bay. (See above.) The two bays on the +opposite, or north-east shore, are shoal, and not fit for any +vessel drawing more than six or seven feet; and the shores are so +lined with mangroves, as in most parts to defy all attempts at +landing. After passing them, the shores approach each other +within three-quarters of a mile, but the south-west shore is +fronted by a rocky shoal, which narrows it to less than half a +mile; here the tide runs very strong, and forms whirlpools. On +passing the point, the river opens into a large, spacious reach, +which was called ST. GEORGE'S BASIN; and two conspicuous islands +in it were called ST. ANDREW and ST. PATRICK'S ISLANDS. At the +north-east corner are two remarkable hills, MOUNTS TRAFALGAR and +WATERLOO: the situation of the summit of the former is in +latitude 15 degrees 16 minutes 35 seconds, and longitude 125 +degrees 4 minutes. The basin is from eight to nine miles in +diameter, but affords no safe anchorage until a vessel is above +St. Patrick's Island. The northern side of the basin is shoaler, +and has two small inlets, which trend in on either side of the +mounts, and run in for upwards of five miles, but they are salt. +At the south side of the basin there are two or three inlets of +considerable size, that trend in towards a low country. At ten +miles South-East by East from the narrow entrance to the basin +the river again resumes its narrow channel, and runs up so +perfectly straight for fourteen miles in a South-East by East +course, that the hills, which rise precipitously on either bank, +were lost in distance, and the river assumed the most exact +appearance of being a strait; it was from one to one mile and a +quarter wide, and generally of from four to eight fathoms deep on +a bottom of yellow sand: the river then took a slight bend, and +continued to run up for twelve or thirteen miles further, with a +few slight curves, and gradually to decrease in width until +terminated by a bar of rocks; which, when the tide rose high +enough to fall over, was very dangerous to pass: here a +considerable gully joins the main stream, and, being fresh water, +was supposed to have the same source as Roe's River. The river +trended up for about three or four miles farther, when it is +entirely stopped by a rapid formed of stones, beyond which we did +not persevere in tracing it; the tide did not reach above this, +and the stream was perceived to continue and form a very +beautiful fresh-water river, about two or three hundred yards +wide. As our means did not allow of our persevering any further, +we gave up our examination. At seventeen miles above St. George's +Basin, on the south shore, we found a cascade of fresh water +falling in a considerable quantity from the height of one hundred +and forty feet; and this, in the rainy season, must be a very +large fall, for its breadth is at least fifty yards. At the time +of our visit it was near the end of the dry season: and even then +there was a very considerable quantity falling. Several small +inlets trended in on either side of the river above the basin, +particularly one upon the north side, which, from the height of +the hills under which it trended, would probably produce a +freshwater stream. In 1821 the Bathurst watered from the cascade, +but the fatigue was too great, and the heat too powerful, for the +boats' crew had to pull nearly forty miles every trip. High water +took place in St. George's Basin at twenty minutes after twelve +o'clock: the tide rose twenty-four feet.</p> +<p>HANOVER BAY is a very convenient port, about five miles deep, +but exposed from the North-North-West; the anchorage is, however, +so good, that no danger need be apprehended. At the bottom of the +bay there is a deep chasm in the land, yielding a fresh-water +stream; beyond this the bay terminates in a shoal basin. In the +offing are several rocky islets, particularly one, a high rock, +which is very remarkable. A little to the north-east of the river +is a sandy beach, the situation of which is in latitude 15 +degrees 18 minutes 21 seconds, and longitude 124 degrees 46 +minutes 50 seconds.</p> +<p>HIGH BLUFF, the extremity of the promontory separating Hanover +Bay from Port George the Fourth, speaks for itself. It is in +latitude 15 degrees 14 minutes 40 seconds, and longitude 124 +degrees 41 minutes 35 seconds. Between High Bluff and Point +Adieu, in latitude 15 degrees 14 minutes 10 seconds, and +longitude 124 degrees 34 minutes 45 seconds, is PORT GEORGE THE +FOURTH, having midway in its entrance a high island nearly two +miles long; and to the southward, in the centre of the port, a +high rocky islet, the LUMP, the summit of which is situated in +latitude 15 degrees 18 minutes 30 seconds, and longitude 124 +degrees 37 minutes 50 seconds. The western side of the port is an +extensive island, AUGUSTUS ISLAND, eleven miles long; it is high +and rocky, and has several bays on its eastern side. The port +affords very good anchorage, particularly between Entrance Island +and the Lump, in nine fathoms, mud; but there is also very good +anchorage with the Lump bearing west, in ten fathoms, mud. Port +George the Fourth terminates in a strait, ROGER'S STRAIT, +communicating with Camden Bay. The best entrance to the port is +on the eastern side of Entrance Island; for the opposite, +although practicable and sufficiently deep for the largest ships, +is narrow, and must be buoyed before it can be used.</p> +<p>POINT ADIEU is the last land seen by us in 1820: it is the +north-east end of Augustus Island, and is a rocky, bluff point. +In the offing, at the distance of three miles, there is a +considerable range of reefs, that extend from the peaked island +of Jackson's Isles; and more to the north-west is another group +of rocky islands.</p> +<p>To the westward of Augustus Island is a range of islands +extending for five leagues; on their north side they are fronted +by considerable coral reefs, which at low water are dry; besides +which there are several small islets that contract the channels, +and render the navigation intricate and difficult. Between +Augustus and Byam Martin's Islands there is an open strait, of +one mile and a half wide; but, its communication with the sea to +the north, appears to be little more than half a mile. BYAM +MARTIN'S ISLAND is separated from a range of small islets, +extending North-North-East by a strait; and these last are +divided from the Champagny Isles by another strait, from +twenty-eight to thirty fathoms deep, through which the tide runs +with great force. Off the north end of Byam Martin's Island are +several smaller islets and coral reefs; the latter extend from it +for more than six miles: the north-westernmost of these islets is +the land seen in 1801 by Captain Heywood, and was called by him +Vulcan Point: RED ISLAND, which he also saw, is eight miles to +the westward; it is in latitude 15 degrees 13 minutes 15 seconds, +and longitude 124 degrees 15 minutes 45 seconds: between it and +Champagny Isles the ebbing tide uncovered several extensive +reefs. Ten miles North 26 degrees East from Red Island, and South +71 degrees West from Freycinet's Island, is a dry sandbank +surrounded by a reef.</p> +<p>DEGERANDO ISLAND, so called by the French, is the southernmost +of the CHAMPAGNY ISLES: considerable reefs extend off its south +end, which are dry at low water; its centre is in latitude 15 +degrees 20 minutes 45 seconds, and longitude 124 degrees 13 +minutes 15 seconds.</p> +<p>CAMDEN BAY is formed between Byam Martin's Island and Pratt's +Islands, and extends to the eastward to Roger's Strait; it is +twelve miles deep and eight wide. Here the tide rose and fell +thirty-seven feet and a half, the moon's age being nineteen days. +High water took place thirteen minutes after the moon's +transit.</p> +<p>Between Camden Bay and Point Swan, a distance of ninety miles, +the mainland falls back, and forms a very considerable opening +fronted by a multitude of islands, islets, and reefs, into which, +from our loss of anchors; we were not able to penetrate. From +Camden Bay the islands, for the coast seemed too irregular to be +the mainland, extend in a range in a south direction for more +than fifty-five miles, to where there appeared to be a deep +opening, or strait, from three to five miles wide. An irregular +line of coast then appeared to extend for seven leagues to the +North-West, and afterwards to the westward for five or six +leagues. To the westward of this, the land appeared to be less +continuous, and to be formed by a mass of islands separated by +deep and narrow straits, through some of which the tide was +observed to rush with considerable strength, foaming and curling +in its stream, as if it were rushing through a bed of rocks: this +was particularly observed among the islands to the south of +Macleay's Islands. After extending for thirty miles farther to +the South-West, the land terminates evidently in islands, which +then trend to the South-East; and to the westward they are +separated from Cygnet Bay, and the land to the southward of it by +a strait five or six leagues wide. The narrowest part of this +strait is at Point Cunningham, where it is twelve miles wide; +two-thirds over to the islands are two rocky islets, which bear +due south from Sunday Strait.</p> +<p>MONTGOMERY ISLANDS, a group of seven islets on the eastern +side of this extensive range of islands, which are named +BUCCANEER'S ARCHIPELAGO, are low and of small extent, +particularly the six easternmost, none of which are a mile long: +the westernmost, which has an extensive reef stretching to the +North-West, is more than three miles in diameter, and appears to +be of different formation to the other, being low and flat, +whilst the rest are scarcely better than a heap of stones, +slightly clothed with vegetation. Between the easternmost islet +and the land, there is a strait of a league in width. The tide +prevented our trying its depth: a league and a half to the +north-west, at high-water, we had irregular soundings between ten +and sixteen fathoms, but six fathoms must be deducted from it to +reduce it to the depth at low water.</p> +<p>Three leagues to the north-west of Montgomery's westernmost +island are COCKELL'S ISLES, two in number, low and flat, but of +small size. A reef extends for more than five miles to the +westward, and it was not thought improbable that it might be +connected with the reefs that extend to the westward of +Montgomery Islands. The centre of the largest island is in 15 +degrees 48 minutes South, and 124 degrees 4 minutes East. To the +North-East of Cockell's Islands the flood-tide sets to the south; +but to the westward with great strength to the South-East, and, +at an anchorage ten miles to the eastward of Macleay Isles, the +tide rose and fell thirty-six feet, the moon being twenty-one +days old. Cockell's Islands are twenty miles from the land to the +south; and in this interval, but within four leagues from the +shore, are several small rocky islets, on one of which there is a +remarkable lump; nearer the shore are two islands, which have a +more fertile and verdant appearance than any other part near +them: these form the western extremity of COLLIER'S BAY.</p> +<p>MACLEAY ISLES lie in a North by West direction, and are eight +miles in extent; the principal and highest island is near the +south end of the group; those to the northward are small and +straggling. The centre of the highest is in latitude 15 degrees +57 minutes, and longitude 123 degrees 42 minutes.</p> +<p>CAFFARELLI ISLAND was seen by the French. Its summit is in +latitude 16 degrees 2 minutes 25 seconds, and longitude 123 +degrees 18 minutes 35 seconds. It is the north-westernmost of a +range of islands, extending in the direction of North 60 degrees +West; among which Cleft Island, so named from a remarkable cleft +or chasm near its north end, and DAMPIER'S MONUMENT, are +conspicuous: the latter is a high lump. This range is separated +from one of a similar nature, and extending in a like direction +to the eastward, by a strait from three to four miles wide, and +from fifteen to twenty deep.</p> +<p>Fourteen miles North 68 degrees West from the summit of +Caffarelli Island is BRUE REEF, a circular patch of rocks of +about a mile in diameter; three miles to the north-east of which +we had irregular soundings, between thirty-eight and forty-five +fathoms on a rocky bottom. The reef is in 15 degrees 57 minutes +South, and 123 degrees 4 minutes 45 seconds East.</p> +<p>Six miles south of Caffarelli Island, is a rocky island, +surrounded by a reef; and eight miles farther are several small +rocky islands, forming the north extremity of a range, which, +extending to the South by East for ten miles, form the eastern +side of Sunday Strait, which is the best, and in fact the only +safe communication with the deep opening between Point Cunningham +and the islands to the eastward. Between this strait and Point +Swan, a distance of eleven miles, the space is occupied by a +multitude of islands and islets, separated from each other by +narrow and, probably, by deep channels, through which the tide +rushes with frightful rapidity. Sunday Strait is more than four +miles wide, and appears to be free from danger. The tide sets +through it at the rate of four or five miles an hour, and forms +strong ripplings, which would be, perhaps, dangerous for a boat +to encounter. The vessel was whirled round several times in +passing through it; but a boat, by being able to pull, might in a +great measure avoid passing through them.</p> +<p>CYGNET BAY is formed between the islands and Point Cunningham; +it is fronted by a bank, over which the least water that we found +was two fathoms; within this bank there is good anchorage, and +near the inlets at the bottom of the bay, there is a muddy +bottom, with eight and nine fathoms mud.</p> +<p>POINT CUNNINGHAM projects slightly to the eastward; its +easternmost extremity is in latitude 16 degrees 39 minutes 20 +seconds and longitude 123 degrees 10 minutes; from the northward +it has the appearance of being an island, as the land to the +westward is rather lower: two miles and a half south of it is +Carlisle Head, the north extremity of GOODENOUGH BAY.</p> +<p>The shore thence extends in a South-South-East direction for +seventeen miles, in which space there is a shoal bay, beyond +which we did not penetrate. Off the point is an islet, in +latitude about 16 degrees 58 minutes, and to the south of it the +land was seen trending to the South by East for four or five +miles, when it was lost in distance. From this anchorage no land +was distinctly seen to the eastward; between the bearings of +East-North-East and South-South-East, a slight glimmering of land +was raised above the horizon, by the effect of refraction; but +this, as in a case that occurred before in a neighbouring part +off Point Gantheaume, might be at least fifty miles off.</p> +<p>From all that is at present known of this remarkable opening, +there is enough to excite the greatest interest; since, from the +extent of the opening, the rapidity of the stream, and the great +rise and fall of the tides, there must be a very extensive gulf +or opening, totally different from everything that has been +before seen.</p> +<p>There is also good reason to suspect that the land between +Cape Leveque and Point Gantheaume is an island; and if so, the +mouth of this opening is eight miles wide; besides, who is to say +that the land even of Cape Villaret may not also be an island? +The French expedition only saw small portions of the coast to the +southward; but it does not appear probable that the opening +extends to the southward of Cape Villaret. (See above.)</p> +<p>Thirty-three miles in a North 14 degrees West direction from +the summit of Caffarelli Island is ADELE ISLAND. It is low, and +merely covered with a few shrubs, and is about three miles from +east to west, and from one to one and a half broad; its west end +is in 15 degrees 30 minutes South, and 123 degrees 9 minutes 15 +seconds East. At about a league North-West from its western end +are two bare sandy islets, which were uncovered as we passed, but +which as there was not the slightest appearance of vegetation +upon it, may be covered at high water. On the western side of +Adele Island, is an extensive patch of light-coloured water, in +some parts of which the sea broke upon the rocks, which were only +just below the surface. The light-coloured water extends for +fourteen miles North West by West 1/2 West from Adele Island, but +there is reason to think that the water is deep over the greater +part of it; for we crossed over its tail, and sounded in +forty-five fathoms without finding bottom, whilst in the +darker-coloured water on either side of it, we had forty-two and +forty-four fathoms.</p> +<p>POINT SWAN is the north-easternmost point of the land of Cape +Leveque; it has an island close off its extremity, round which +the tide rushes with great force, and forms a line of ripplings +for ten miles to the West-North-West, through which, even in the +Bathurst, we found it dangerous to pass. Five miles to the +north-eastward of the point are two small rocky islets, two miles +apart from each other.</p> +<p>CAPE LEVEQUE is low and rocky, with a small islet close to its +extremity: its extreme is in latitude 16 degrees 21 minutes 50 +seconds, and longitude 122 degrees 56 minutes 35 seconds. Between +the cape and Point Swan, there is a sandy bay, fronted by a bed +of rocks. It was in this bay that the Buccaneers anchored, which +Dampier has so well described.</p> +<p>The coast between CAPES LEVEQUE and BORDA extending South 40 +degrees West nineteen miles, is low and rocky, and the country +sandy and unproductive. Between Cape Borda and Point Emeriau is a +bay ten miles deep, backed by very low sandy land; and five miles +further is another bay, that appeared to be very shoal: thence +the coast extends to the South-West for twenty-three miles to +CAPE BASKERVILLE; it is low and sandy, like that to the +northward, but the interior is higher, and with some appearance +of vegetation.</p> +<p>Thirteen miles from the shore are the LACEPEDE ISLANDS; they +are three in number, and surrounded by a reef nine miles long by +five wide. They lie in a North-West direction, and are two miles +apart: the north-westernmost is in latitude 16 degrees 49 minutes +40 seconds, and longitude 122 degrees 7 minutes 20 seconds: they +are low and slightly clothed with bushes, and seem to be little +more than the dry parts of the reef, on which a soil has been +accumulated, and in time produced vegetation. These islands +appear to be the haunt of prodigious numbers of boobies. The +variation is 0 degrees 12 minutes West.</p> +<p>In latitude 16 degrees 46 minutes, and longitude 121 degrees +50 minutes 30 seconds, the French have placed a reef, BANC DES +BALEINES; which we did not approach near enough to see.</p> +<p>Between Capes Baskerville and Berthollet, is CARNOT BAY; it is +six miles deep, and backed by low land. The bottom of the bay was +not distinctly seen, but from the appearance of the land behind +the beach, it is not improbable that there may be a rivulet +falling into it.</p> +<p>At POINT COULOMB, in latitude 17 degrees 21 minutes, where +there is a range of dark red cliffs, the coast commences to +present a more verdant and pleasing appearance than to the north: +the interior rises to an unusual height, and forms a round-backed +hill, covered with trees: it reminded us of the appearance of the +country of the north coast, and is so different from the rugged +and barren character of the Islands of Buccaneer's Archipelago as +to afford an additional ground for our conjecture of the +insularity of this land. The red cliffs extend for four miles to +the southward of Point Coulomb, and are then superseded by a low +coast, composed alternately of rocky shores and sandy +beaches.</p> +<p>CAPE BOILEAU is seventeen miles to the south of Point Coulomb; +here the shore trends in and forms a bay fifteen miles wide and +six deep: the south head is the land of Point Gantheaume, which +is composed of sandhills very bare of vegetation, as was also the +character of the interior. From Point Gantheaume, in latitude 17 +degrees 53 minutes, the coast trends to the South-East for about +fifteen miles, where it was lost to view in distance: the extreme +was a low sandy point, and appeared to be the south extremity of +the land. The space to the south of this, which appeared to be a +strait, insulating the land to the north as far as Cape Leveque, +is nine miles wide. The south shore trends to the westward to +Cape Villaret, on which there is a remarkable hillock, in +latitude 18 degrees 19 minutes 5 seconds, and longitude 122 +degrees 3 minutes 45 seconds.</p> +<p>The space between the Cape and Point Gantheaume was called +ROEBUCK BAY. It is here that Captain Dampier landed, in the year +1688.</p> +<p>Three miles to the south of the hillock on Cape Villaret, are +two lumps, which at a distance appeared like rocks. Cape +Latouche-Treville has a small hummock near its extremity, in +latitude 18 degrees 29 minutes, and longitude 121 degrees 50 +minutes 50 seconds; to the eastward of it, there is a shallow bay +open to the northward.</p> +<p>The depth of water in the offing of Roebuck Bay, is between +eight and twelve fathoms; the bottom is sandy, and there are in +some parts sandbanks, on which the depth decreased three fathoms +at one heave, but the least water was eight fathoms. The +flood-tide sets to the eastward, towards the opening, and at an +anchorage near Cape Latouche-Treville, the ebb ran to the +North-East: but the tides were at the neaps, and did not rise +more than sixteen feet. Captain Dampier, at the springs, found it +flow thirty feet, which tends unquestionably to prove the opening +behind Roebuck Bay to be considerable, even if it does not +communicate with that behind the Buccaneer's Archipelago.</p> +<p>The interval between Cape Latouche-Treville and Depuch Island, +was not seen by us. The following brief description of it is +taken from M. De Freycinet's account of Commodore Baudin's +voyage.</p> +<p>LAGRANGE BAY, to the east of Cape Bossut, is a bight, the +bottom of which was not seen. CAPE BOSSUT is low and sandy, as +well as the neighbouring land; and, with the exception of a small +grove of trees a little to the north of Cape Duhamel, the country +is sterile everywhere.</p> +<p>The CASUARINA REEF is a bank of sand and rocks, parts of which +are dry, on which the sea occasionally breaks. The channel +between it and the shore is narrow and shoal, the depth being two +and a half fathoms. The dry part of the reef extends from east to +west for about two miles.</p> +<p>Between CAPES DUHAMEL and MISSIESSY, the coast is sandy and +sterile, with rocky projections: GEOFFROY and DESAULT BAYS are of +the same character.</p> +<p>With the exception of two intervals, one of which is to the +west of Cape Missiessy, and the other to the east of the Bancs +des Planaires, the French saw the coast between Capes Missiessy +and Keraudren, but at a great distance. It appeared low and +sterile.</p> +<p>The BANCS DES PLANAIRES appeared to have a considerable +longitudinal extent; it was not ascertained whether they joined +the mainland: some parts seemed to be dry at low water.</p> +<p>There is a bank with only fourteen feet water over it, +situated nearly North-East from Cape Keraudren in 19 degrees 41 +minutes latitude.</p> +<p>North, a little westerly, from CAPE LARREY, between which and +Cape Keraudren there is a bay with an island (POISSONNIER) in the +entrance, is BEDOUT ISLAND. It is in latitude 19 degrees 29 +minutes, longitude 116 degrees 32 minutes, East of Paris, or 118 +degrees 52 minutes East of Greenwich. It is low and sandy.</p> +<p>The BANC DES AMPHINOMES is very extensive, and appeared to be +connected with the main; it is composed of coral, rocks, and +sand.</p> +<p>The coast to the South-West of Cape Larrey is, as well as the +Cape itself, of a remarkable red colour. The country appeared to +be sterile.</p> +<p>TURTLE ISLANDS, two in number, lie West-North-West from Cape +Larrey: the south-westernmost is merely a flat sandy islet +(PLATEAU DE SABLE) the other is surrounded by a reef of coral, +upon which the sea breaks. The Casuarina (M. De Freycinet's +vessel) had nine fathoms within half a mile of it; the reef +appeared to be steep, and the island to afford a landing in fine +weather.</p> +<p>The land is equally low and sandy as far as CAPE THOUIN and +CAPE COSSIGNY.</p> +<p>The GEOGRAPHE REEFS extend for more than twelve miles, and +perhaps are joined to the land. Their southern parts dry at low +water. The Geographe sailed through them, so that it is probable +they are detached in numerous reefs.</p> +<p>At FORESTIER ISLANDS we saw the coast again. The main is here +very low, but from the shoalness of the water we were not able to +penetrate behind Depuch Island. It is very uncertain whether the +coastline that is laid down upon the chart is correct: it was +scarcely visible from the deck, and was so low that it might have +merely been the dry parts of extensive reefs. The high land +retires for fifteen or twenty miles, and forms an amphitheatre or +deep bay, with some hills of considerable elevation in the +distance.</p> +<p>All the islands of this group are low and sandy, excepting +DEPUCH, which is high, and of a very peculiar formation; it is +described in the first volume.</p> +<p>We did not land upon it, but on its north-east side there +appeared to be a bay, on which the French found a stream of +water.</p> +<p>Between DEPUCH ISLAND and CAPE LAMBERT the coast is very +shoal. Towards the latter the hills approach the sea, and the +bottom is deeper. BEZOUT ISLAND is connected to the cape by a +reef, on which there are several dry rocks; we passed close round +its north-east edge, and had eleven fathoms.</p> +<p>To the westward of Cape Lambert, in latitude 20 degrees 24 +minutes 30 seconds, and longitude 117 degrees 7 minutes, there +are two deep openings, which appeared to be merely bays, but +their bottom was not distinctly seen. On the top of the hill of +the projecting point that separates them, there are three +remarkable rocky summits. The next point has several round-backed +hills upon it; it is the east head of NICKOL'S BAY, into which +there may possibly fall one or more streams; its shores are low, +and appeared to be lined with mangroves. Nickol's Bay affords +good anchorage in six and seven fathoms, and is only exposed to +the North-East. It is protected from westerly winds by high land: +it is, however, rather exposed to the South-West winds, from the +little elevation of the land in that direction; but if a vessel +should drive, the passage between Bezout and Delambre Island is +clear and, as far as we know, free from danger.</p> +<p>DELAMBRE ISLAND has very extensive reefs stretching to the +northward, and also to the eastward, but on its western side did +not appear to extend for more than half a mile: the hill at the +north end of the island is in latitude 20 degrees 23 minutes 35 +seconds, and longitude 117 degrees 1 minute 25 seconds; the +passage between it and the reef off HAUY ISLAND, is about two +miles and a half wide, and from nine to ten fathoms deep. The +edge of the reef off the latter island is not well defined, for +we passed several straggling rocks.</p> +<p>LEGENDRE ISLAND is the northernmost of Dampier's Archipelago: +it is nine miles long, and from half to one and a half mile +broad: near its south-east end, which is connected to HAUY +ISLAND, there are several rocky islets, and near its extremity it +has three remarkable hillocks; its North-West point is in +latitude 20 degrees 18 minutes 45 seconds, and longitude 116 +degrees 46 minutes; its north-east coast and north-west extremity +are of bold approach: the latter has a reef that fronts its +shores, extending for about a quarter of a mile into the sea; the +ground under its lee is rocky, and not safe to anchor near. Our +cable hooked a rock, fortunately however it was rotten, and broke +away, so that the cable, being a chain was not damaged.</p> +<p>The islands of DAMPIER'S ARCHIPELAGO, are of high rocky +character, and very different from either the coast or the +islands in their vicinity. It consists of about twenty islands, +besides smaller ones, scattered over a space of forty miles in +extent: Delambre is the easternmost island, and a small sandy +island to the South-West of Enderby Island is the +westernmost.</p> +<p>GIDLEY ISLAND, and two others to the eastward, extend in a +north and south direction; they are high and rocky. The west +shore of Gidley Island appeared to be fronted by a continuous +reef, on which some patches of dry rocks were observed. Gidley +Island is separated from Legendre Island by a very shoal and +rocky strait, apparently impassable for anything larger than +boats. It has several small sandy islets scattered about it, and +at low water the greater part is dry. There is doubtless a deep +passage through, but it must be intricate and dangerous, and only +to be attempted in a case of the most pressing emergency. On the +island to the southward, are two sandy bays. The land to the +southward is doubtless a part of the main: and is, like the other +islands, high and rocky. It forms the eastern shore of MERMAID's +STRAIT, which is an excellent port, affording safe and secure +anchorage at all seasons.</p> +<p>The islands on the western side of the strait, are LEWIS and +MALUS. The north-east point of the latter island, COURTENAY HEAD, +is, without doubt, Captain Dampier's Bluff Head. It is a very +remarkable point; its summit is in 20 degrees 29 minutes 5 +seconds South, and 116 degrees 36 minutes 35 seconds East. On its +west side is a sandy bay with good anchorage in four and five +fathoms. Malus Island is separated from Lewis Island by a strait +a mile wide; it is probably deep.</p> +<p>The north-east point of LEWIS ISLAND is a narrow projecting +tongue of land, terminating in a high rocky lump; and to the +southward of it, are two high rocky islets of similar appearance. +There is also another, but of smaller size, off the south-east +point of Malus Island. In the centre of Lewis Island there is a +valley, that stretches across to the opposite sides of the +island, forming a bay on either side.</p> +<p>To the south of Lewis Island is a group of islands, which, +from the circumstance of our communicating with the natives, was +called INTERCOURSE ISLANDS. They are all small. The largest has a +remarkable summit upon it, in latitude 20 degrees 37 minutes 50 +seconds, and longitude 116 degrees 36 minutes 45 seconds: it is +from this Island that the natives drove us, and would not allow +us to land.* The channel between them and Lewis Island is more +than a mile wide, and is seven and eight fathoms deep.</p> +<blockquote>(*Footnote. Vide volume 1.)</blockquote> +<p>ENDERBY ISLAND is separated from Lewis Island by a channel one +mile and a half wide, apparently clear and free from danger. Its +south-west point is ROCKY HEAD, the summit of which was found to +be in latitude 20 degrees 35 minutes 25 seconds, and longitude +116 degrees 23 minutes 5 seconds. To the north is GOODWYN ISLAND; +and further north, and West-North-West from Malus Island, from +which it is separated by a strait two miles and a half wide, is +ROSEMARY ISLAND, which, when viewed from the North-North-East or +South-South-West, has three hummocks bearing from each other West +by North and East by South. The centre hummock is in latitude 20 +degrees 27 minutes 30 seconds, and longitude 116 degrees 31 +minutes. In the vicinity of Rosemary and Goodwyn Islands are +several small rocky islands, particularly on the north-east side +of the former; and at the distance of three miles, to the north +of the centre of Malus Island, is a patch of flat rocks, which +are those seen and noticed by Dampier (Dampier volume 3 page 81 +table 4 Number 10) but from his vague account, it is not at all +certain what island he saw; and, was it not for the peculiarity +and remarkable appearance of Courtenay Head, it might have been +any of the others. There is good anchorage in all parts about the +Archipelago, particularly within Lewis Island, where the +Intercourse Islands will shelter a ship from whatever point the +wind may blow.</p> +<p>There is no wood of any size to be procured among the islands, +which is a great drawback upon its utility as a port. In the +rainy season water is doubtless abundant, but must be soon +evaporated. We saw no rivulet or any fresh water, excepting a few +gallons that were protected from the heat of the sun by being +under the shade of a fig, but from the number of natives seen by +us, it is probable that there must be a large quantity not far +off. The natives of this part use logs to convey them from and to +the islands. A small sandy island, with a reef extending for two +miles from its north-west end, and one mile and a half from its +south-east end, lies off the south-west end of Enderby Island, +and would serve as a good protection from the sea in a South-West +wind, for the anchorage on the south side of Enderby Island.</p> +<p>The mainland is high and rocky behind the islands, but at the +bottom of the bay again assumes a low character: more to the +westward, a range of hills rises abruptly and advances for +fourteen miles in a North-West direction from the interior, and +reaches the shores of the bay, when it extends for eleven miles +to the westward, and is then terminated by a valley, or an +opening of one mile and a half wide, that separates it from the +rocky hills of CAPE PRESTON. The cape juts out into the sea, and +is connected by reefs to some low sandy islands to the +North-East; it is in latitude 20 degrees 49 minutes 45 seconds, +and longitude 116 degrees 5 minutes. In the centre of the bay, at +eight miles North 64 degrees East from the extremity of the cape, +is a low, sandy islet, of about one-third of a mile in diameter; +and behind it, near the shores of the bay, there appeared to be +other islands of the same size and character, the particular form +and situation of which could not be distinguished.</p> +<p>There is a small rocky islet off Cape Preston, and some to the +South-South-West, in which direction the shore trends in and +forms a bay, the shores of which were not seen.</p> +<p>From Cape Preston the coast assumes a very different character +from that to the eastward, being less sinuous, very low, and +either fronted by mangroves, or by a range of sandhills, both of +which conceal the interior. The coast, at from three to seven +miles, is fronted by a range of low, sandy islets, from one +quarter to two-thirds of a mile in diameter: there are, however, +two or three near Cape Preston of larger size, particularly one +bearing South 66 degrees West, fifteen miles from the extremity +of the cape, of rocky character, but very level, and apparently +sterile; it is nearly circular, and about two miles in diameter. +It is visible for about five leagues.</p> +<p>Thirty miles South-West by South from Cape Preston is a +mangrove bight, with several openings communicating with a large +lagoon, or body of water, at the base of a small range of hills. +The bight is shoal and thickly studded with sandy islets. Hence +the coast extends to the South-West by West, fronted by mangroves +for about forty miles, and then for about sixteen miles +South-West to the entrance of Curlew River.</p> +<p>Between Curlew River and Cape Preston, a space of eighty-five +miles, there are not less than thirty sandy islets in sight from +the coast, separated from each other by channels, generally +navigable, between one to five miles wide. Good anchorage may be +found among these islands, for the sea cannot fail of being +smooth in the strongest winds. The depth among these islands is +from four to six fathoms, and the bottom generally of gravel or +sand.</p> +<p>CURLEW RIVER is defended by a shoal entrance, and is merely a +creek running through a low country for three miles; its banks +are overrun with mangroves, and it affords no inducement whatever +for vessels to visit it. The country behind is low, and, at +spring tides, or during the rainy season, is inundated.</p> +<p>The coast continues low and sandy to CAPE LOCKER, a distance +of thirteen miles, and with the same barren character for twenty +miles further, forming the east side of Exmouth Gulf. ROSILY, and +THEVENARD ISLES are low and sandy; they were seen by us at a +considerable distance.</p> +<p>BARROW'S ISLAND, of about forty miles in circumference, is of +moderate height and level aspect, but of very sterile and barren +appearance. A considerable reef extends towards the main from its +south-east side, where there is also a small islet: on the +north-east side are three islets; the two outermost of which are +low and rocky. The west coast of Barrow's Island was seen by the +French, who thought it was part of the main; they named its +north-west end, CAPE DUPUY, and its south end, CAPE POIVRE. At +ten miles South 25 degrees West from the last cape, the French +charts have assigned a position to a reef: and four miles North +10 degrees East from Cape Dupuy is another. Neither were noticed +by us, since we did not approach this part sufficiently near to +see them if they do exist; of which, from the account of the +French, there can be but little doubt.</p> +<p>LOWENDAL ISLAND and TRIMOUILLE ISLAND were seen by us, but not +any vestige of HERMITE ISLAND, which the French have placed in +their chart. From M. de Freycinet's account, the two latter +islands were seen at different times; and since Trimouille Island +has a reef extending for five miles from its north-western +extremity, as Hermite Island is described to have, there seems to +be good reason to suppose that there is but one; had there been +two, we should have seen it on passing this part in 1822.*</p> +<blockquote>(*Footnote. Vide volume 1.)</blockquote> +<p>From the reasons mentioned in the narrative, there remains no +doubt in my mind that Barrow's Island, and Lowendal and +Trimouille Islands (which the French called the Montebello +Islands) are the long lost TRYAL ROCKS. The latitude and +description answer very exactly; the longitude alone raises the +doubt, but the reckonings of former navigators cannot be depended +upon, and errors of ten or twelve degrees of longitude were not +rare, of which many proofs might be found, by comparing the +situations of places formerly determined with their position on +the charts of the present time. Many old navigators were not very +particular; and never gave the error of their account upon +arriving at their destined port, either from shame or from +carelessness and indifference.</p> +<p>A reef of rocks is said to exist in latitude 20 degrees 17 +minutes 40 seconds, and longitude 114 degrees 46 minutes 6 +seconds. They were seen by Lieutenant Ritchie, R.N., in the +command of a merchant brig, as appears by an account published in +the Sydney Gazette.</p> +<p>EXMOUTH GULF terminates the North-west Coast of Australia; it +is thirty-four miles wide at its entrance (between the North-west +Cape and Cape Locker) and forty-five miles deep. Its eastern side +is formed by a very low coast, the particulars of which were not +distinguished, for it is lined by an intricate cluster of islands +that we could not, having but one anchor, penetrate among. In the +entrance is Muiron Island, and two others, h and i; and within +the gulf they are too numerous to distinguish: all the outer ones +have been assigned correct positions to, as have all between +Exmouth Gulf and Dampier's Archipelago. The islets y and z are +the outer ones of the group; between which and the western shore +there is a space of fourteen miles in extent, quite free from +danger, with regular soundings between nine and twelve fathoms on +a sandy bottom. Under the western shore, which is the deepest, +there are some bays which will afford anchorage; but the bottom +is generally very rocky. In the neighbourhood of the Bay of Rest, +the shore is more sinuous, and in the bay there is good anchorage +in three and four fathoms, mud. Here the gulf is twelve miles +across, and from three to six fathoms deep; but the eastern side +is shoal and very low. The gulf then shoalens and narrows very +much; and at fifteen miles farther terminates in an inlet, or, as +has been subsequently conjectured, a strait communicating with +the sea at the south end of the high land that forms the western +side of the gulf, and which is doubtless the identical Cloates +Island that has puzzled navigators for the last eighty years. It +perfectly answers the descriptions that have been given; and the +only thing against it is the longitude; but this, like that of +the Tryal Rocks, is not to be attended to.</p> +<blockquote>(*Footnote. Vide below.)</blockquote> +<p>The south-west point of this land has been named Point Cloates +until its insularity shall be determined, when, for the sake of +Geography, the name of CLOATES ISLAND should be restored. At the +bottom of the south-eastern side of Exmouth Gulf the land is so +low and the islands so numerous, that it was in vain that we +attempted to examine its shores, which was also rendered still +more difficult and dangerous to persevere in doing, from our +losses of anchors, and the strong winds which blew every night +from the South-West.</p> +<p>The NORTH-WEST CAPE is a low, sandy point, projecting for full +two miles to the East-North-East from the fall of the land, which +was called VLAMING HEAD. There is a reef of small extent off the +cape, but separated from it by a channel half a mile wide, and +six fathoms deep; a sandy spit extends also from the cape for +about a quarter of a mile.</p> +<p>The extremity of the North-West Cape is in latitude 21 degrees +47 minutes 40 seconds, and longitude 114 degrees 3 minutes 40 +seconds; and Vlaming Head in latitude 21 degrees 48 minutes 40 +seconds, and longitude 114 degrees 1 minute 40 seconds.</p> +<hr align="center" width="20%"> +<h4>APPENDIX A. SECTION 5.</h4> +<p align="center">OF THE WINDS AND WEATHER, AND DESCRIPTION OF +THE WESTERN COAST BETWEEN THE NORTH-WEST CAPE AND CAPE +LEEUWIN.</p> +<p>NORTH-WEST COAST.</p> +<p>We did not obtain much experience of the winds upon this +coast, having only been upon it during the months of January and +February, when they prevailed between South-South-East and +South-South-West, veering sometimes, though rarely, to +South-West. In the winter season (June, July, and August) hard +gales of wind have been experienced from the North-West, even as +high as Shark's Bay; and at this season the coast ought not to be +approached. The South-east Trade is suspended in the +neighbourhood of the coast in the summer season, and the winds +are almost constant from South-South-West.</p> +<p>Between the North-west Cape and POINT CLOATES, which is in 22 +degrees 33 minutes 5 seconds South, a space of about fifty-two +miles, the shore is defended by a reef of rocks, extending from +three to five miles from it. The land is high and level, and of +most sterile appearance: nearer the north end there is a low, +sandy plain at the foot of the hills; but to the southward the +coast appeared to be steep and precipitous. This is evidently the +land that has been taken for Cloates Island; and, in fact, it is +not at all unlikely to be an island, for, to the southward of the +latter point, the shore trends in, and was so indistinctly seen, +that it probably communicates with the bottom of Exmouth Gulf.* +At latitude 23 degrees 10 minutes the coast slightly projects, +and is fronted by a reef, on which the sea was breaking +heavily.</p> +<blockquote>(*Footnote. Vide volume 1.)</blockquote> +<p>CAPE FARQUHAR, in latitude 23 degrees 35 minutes, and +longitude 113 degrees 35 minutes 35 seconds, is a low, sandy +point. To the northward of it the coast trends in and forms a +bay, but not deep enough to offer shelter from the prevailing +winds.</p> +<p>Between Cape Farquhar and Cape Cuvier the coast is low and +sandy; the land has a level outline, and the shore is formed by a +sandy beach, which did not appear to be fronted by rocks. The +land of CAPE CUVIER is high, level, and rocky, and, rising +abruptly from the sea, forms a bluff point, in latitude 24 +degrees 0 minutes 30 seconds, and longitude 113 degrees 21 +minutes 48 seconds. This promontory is the northern head of +Shark's Bay. The land was not seen by us to the South-East, and +is laid down, as is indeed the whole of Shark's Bay, from M. De +Freycinet's chart, which was drawn from the survey made of it in +Commodore Baudin's voyage.</p> +<p>The western coast of BERNIER and DORRE ISLANDS are bold to, +and are composed of a high, precipitous cliff, with a level +summit. The only irregularity upon them is a slight elevation on +the south end of the latter. Off the north end of Bernier Island +is the small islet called KOK'S. The channel between Bernier and +Dorre is about a mile and a half wide, but is so blocked up by +rocks as to be impassable.</p> +<p>DIRK HARTOG'S ISLAND extends from Cape Inscription, in +latitude 25 degrees 28 minutes 20 seconds, to 26 degrees 6 +minutes; it is here separated from Point Escarpee (Bluff Point) +by a strait, which has a shoal communication with Shark's Bay. +Dirk Hartog's Island is high, and of similar appearance to +Bernier and Dorre; it is fronted by a line of breakers. DIRK +HARTOG'S ROAD, at the north end of the island, is a commodious +roadstead, sheltered from all winds to the southward of east and +west; and, since they are the prevailing and almost constant +winds of this part, may be considered a very secure anchorage. +There is a reef extending off Cape Inscription for half a mile, +which will also afford protection from the sea, even should the +wind blow hard from the west. The beach of the bay is fronted by +coral rocks, but affords easy landing in all parts, particularly +at high water. This beach is covered with turtles' nests; and at +daylight thirty to fifty might be turned and embarked without any +difficulty or delay. The animals are easily taken, since the +rocks prevent their escaping into the sea; and it is only at high +water that they can return. M. De Freycinet says (page 189) that +there is a passage between the reef, off the east point of the +bay, and the shore with ten fathoms.</p> +<p>The following account of Shark's Bay is taken from M. De +Freycinet's account (page 189 et seq.)</p> +<p>In the fairway of the entrance to Shark's Bay, between Dorre +and Dirk Hartog's Islands, is DAMPIER'S REEF; it is two miles in +extent from east to west, and about one mile wide. It has but two +and a half and three fathoms water over it, and should be +approached with care, on account of the swell. Proceeding +southerly from Cape Levillain, which is the east head of Dirk +Hartog's Road, at the distance of five or six miles is a cove +(barachois) formed by reefs, where boats might obtain shelter. +Hence to Quoin Point (Coin-de-Mire) the coast has no sinuosities. +TETRODON BAY is seven miles wide and very shallow; it has two or +three sandy islets in it, and can only be entered by small boats. +Near Refuge Point is a safe and convenient creek. To the +southward of this there are several shoal bays. To the eastward +of Cape Ransonnet, which is peaked and of a moderate elevation, +there are several little creeks well adapted for boats and, to +the westward, a sandy plain extends to the south extremity of the +island. That part of Shark's Bay, between Dirk Hartog's Island +and Peron's Peninsula, is formed by Le Passage Epineux, Useless +Harbour (Havre Inutile) and Henry Freycinet's Harbour: to the +southward of the line of bearing between Quoin Point and Cape +Lesueur, the sea is shoal and studded with banks, but to the +north it is quite open.</p> +<p>The Passage Epineux, which separates Dirk Hartog's Island from +the main, is about two miles wide; but the reefs and rocks, which +protrude from either shore, reduce the passage to half that +width. The depth upon the rocky bar which stretches across the +entrance is six fathoms, but immediately without it the depth is +twenty-two fathoms. M. De Freycinet says, that a ship upon a lee +shore in the vicinity of Point Escarpee may enter this opening +with confidence; she will find a good shelter and excellent +anchorage in five and six fathoms fine sand. To enter it, pass in +mid-channel, if anything, borrowing upon Point Escarpee, and +steer for the Mondrain de Direction, and pass over the bar +without fearing the breakers upon it, which are caused by the +sudden decrease of depth, from twenty-two to six fathoms; after +this the depth will continue without altering more than one +fathom. The best anchorage is to the South-West of Cape +Ransonnet, for within it the passage is blocked up by shoals, +over which a boat cannot without difficulty pass.</p> +<p>USELESS HARBOUR is so shoal as to be, according to its name, +quite unserviceable; since boats can with difficulty penetrate to +the bottom, although its length is twenty-one miles: HENRY +FREYCINET HARBOUR is twenty-two leagues long in a South-East +direction; and from three to six leagues wide. Its entrance is +blocked up by a bar; and, although the depth within is in some +parts considerable, it is very doubtful whether ships can enter +it. The shores are difficult to land upon, from the shoals +extending so far off.</p> +<p>On the western side of this harbour there are several inlets +and deep bays, but too shoal to be of any service. The eastern +shore of the harbour is formed by PERON'S PENINSULA, which +separates it from HAMELIN'S HARBOUR. It is sixteen leagues long +and five leagues wide. DAMPIER'S BAY, at the north-west end, +contains several sandy bays, where boats may almost always land. +It is here that the French had their observatory.</p> +<p>From the northern point of the peninsula, Pointe des +Hauts-Fonds, the reefs extend for three leagues to the North and +North-North-West. They were then supposed to extend to the +North-East.</p> +<p>The French only examined the western shores of Hamelin +Harbour. The opposite coast was seen only at a distance, and the +shoalness of the water prevented their boats from approaching it. +M. De Freycinet says: "Ces terres, basses et steriles, ne +contiennent aucune coupure; l'uniformite y est par-tout +complete," page 194.</p> +<p>Although Hamelin Harbour is not so deep as that of Henry +Freycinet, on the opposite side of Peron's Peninsula, it is +nevertheless of larger size. The centre is much occupied by +banks, which entirely surround FAURE ISLAND; the diameter of +which is about two leagues.</p> +<p>Although many sandy beaches were seen at a distance upon the +eastern shore of Shark's Bay, yet the boats of the French ships +could not reach the shore on account of the reefs which front it. +Here and there they distinguished red cliffs, and some signs of a +scanty and burnt up vegetation.</p> +<p>Of the anchorages in Shark's Bay, the most convenient appears +to be that in Dampier's Bay, at the north-west end of Peron's +Peninsula, as well on account of the excellency of the +holding-ground, as the facility of procuring fuel. The +Naturaliste remained a long time at this anchorage, and never +experienced any ill effect from the winds. The distance from the +shore was six miles, and the depth six fathoms, fine sandy +bottom. The sea was so clear, that the anchor was easily +distinguished. The Naturaliste found only occasion to moor with a +kedge, merely to keep the cable clear of the anchor. As the +strongest winds were the South and East, the bower anchor was +laid in the latter direction.</p> +<p>The above seems to be all that is worth taking from M. De +Freycinet's account as regards the navigation of Shark's Bay. The +coasts of the harbours of Henry Freycinet and Hamelin are much +more detailed by him, and there is also much valuable information +upon various heads, particularly as to meteorological +observations, and the productions of the land and sea, and a +curious example of the effect of a mirage; but as these subjects +are irrelevant to the matter of this paper, they have been +disregarded.</p> +<p>From POINT ESCARPEE to GANTHEAUME BAY, the coast is formed by +a precipitous range of rocky cliffs, rising abruptly from the +sea, to the height perhaps of three or four hundred feet. The +coast is fringed with an uninterrupted line of breakers. The +summit of the land is so level, and the coast so uniform, that no +summits or points could be set with any chance of recognizing +them. The depth at ten miles off the shore, was between fifty and +seventy fathoms, decreasing to thirty-four in the neighbourhood +of Gantheaume Bay.</p> +<p>GANTHEAUME BAY probably affords shelter on its south side from +South-West winds: there was some appearance of an opening in it, +but Vlaming, who sent a boat on shore here, has not mentioned it; +and if there is one, it is of very small size, and unimportant. +The shores of the bay are low and of sterile appearance.</p> +<p>RED POINT, a steep cliffy projection, is the north extremity +of a range of reddish-coloured cliffs, of about two hundred feet +high, that extends to the southward for eight miles, when a sandy +shore commences and continues with little variation, except +occasional rocky projections and sometimes rocky bays, as far as +Cape Burney. The coast is moderately high, and, in the interior, +some hills of an unusual height for this part of the coast are +seen. MOUNT NATURALISTE is in latitude 28 degrees 18 minutes, and +between the latitudes 28 degrees 25 minutes and 28 degrees 55 +minutes, is MORESBY'S FLAT-TOPPED RANGE. It is terminated at the +north end by three hills, called MENAI HILLS; and at the southern +end, by the WIZARD HILLS. MOUNT FAIRFAX is in latitude 28 degrees +45 minutes 30 seconds, and longitude 114 degrees 38 minutes 45 +seconds. The coast in front of this range is of pleasing and +verdant appearance; two or three small openings in the sandy +beach, with an evident separation in the hills behind, +particularly one in latitude 28 degrees 36 minutes, bore +indications of rivulets; and the smokes of natives' fires, and +the more wooded character of the coast, showed that the country +was evidently more fertile and productive than any other part +between Cape Leeuwin and the North-west Cape. The bottom at from +ten to twelve miles off, is from twenty to twenty-five fathoms +deep, and composed of a fine sand, of a dark gray colour.</p> +<p>CAPE BURNEY is in latitude 28 degrees 56 minutes: four miles +to the southward is a reef, apparently detached from the +shore.</p> +<p>HOUTMAN'S ABROLHOS. The old Dutch charts give a very +considerable extent to this reef; Van Keulen makes it cover a +space of sea, forty-seven miles long, and twenty-five broad. We +only saw the islands at the south end, with three detached reefs +between them and the shore; one of which (the southernmost) may +probably be the TURTLE DOVE. The islands lie West 4 degrees North +true, forty-one miles from Cape Burney, but the channel (GEELVINK +CHANNEL) between the shore and the reefs, is not more than +twenty-six miles wide. The south-easternmost reef that we saw is +about three miles long, and lies nearly ten miles South 55 +degrees East from the islands; it appeared to be covered, but the +sea was breaking high over it. In passing this part of the coast, +Captain Hamelin, who commanded the Naturaliste under Commodore +Baudin's orders, must have steered within the reefs, as the +Geelvink (Vlaming's ship) did. The reef that is laid down upon +the chart, in latitude 29 degrees 10 minutes is from Van Keulen. +We did not see it. (See Horsburgh volume 1 page 98.)</p> +<p>From Cape Burney the coast is rather low and sandy; in 29 +degrees 16 minutes is a reef; and seven miles more to the south +is another; they lie from five to seven miles from the shore.</p> +<p>In latitude 29 degrees 6 minutes 30 seconds, there is a small +peaked hillock; and in 29 degrees 17 minutes 50 seconds, a small +sandy patch upon the land.</p> +<p>Between latitudes 29 degrees 25 minutes and 29 degrees 55 +minutes, we did not see the coast, having passed it in the night. +It is laid down from Van Keulen's chart. Hence to Island Point, +which is low and rocky, the shore is lined with reefs, extending +off shore for two to four miles. At the back of this, and at +about eight miles from the coast, is a rocky range, of three +leagues in length, on which are MOUNTS PERON and LESUEUR.</p> +<p>To the south of ISLAND POINT, are two bays fronted by reefs; +the southernmost, JURIEN BAY, has three or more small islets in +it. The coast to the south of the bay is sandy. In latitude 30 +degrees 37 minutes, are three small rocky lumps, very remarkably +placed; the middle one is in latitude 30 degrees 37 minutes 40 +seconds: fourteen miles to the south of these are two others, the +north-easternmost is in latitude 30 degrees 51 minutes 50 +seconds, they are very conspicuously placed upon a ridge of bare +white sand. Hence the coast winds to the South-South-East for +eighty miles as far as the entrance of Swan River. The coast is +low and slightly wooded, and lined with reefs, that in some +places extend for two miles from the shore. Off CAPE LESCHENAULT +(in latitude 31 degrees 21 minutes) is a reef, lying six miles +and a half from the shore; it appeared to be connected with the +rocks that line the coast.</p> +<p>The following account of SWAN RIVER is taken from Captain De +Freycinet's account of Baudin's voyage (page 175 et seq).</p> +<p>"The mouth of Swan River is in latitude 32 degrees 4 minutes +31 seconds, and longitude 113 degrees 26 minutes 28 seconds East +of Paris, or (115 degrees 46 minutes 43 seconds East of +Greenwich). The channel is obstructed by a bar of rocks, which it +is very difficult to pass over, and, indeed, impracticable if the +wind blows from the sea. On entering, the passage is on the +starboard side: it is narrow and shoal, and divided into two +channels; in each of which there is from five to six feet of +water; after passing this, there is seven and eight feet: the +course must then be towards the west, to avoid two shoals, which +are upon the right bank: after half a mile the navigation is +free, and in mid-channel the depth is not less than seven, eight, +and nine feet. The river then trends in a northerly direction for +seven miles, without any sinuosity of consequence. On the eastern +bank, are two shoals; the passage is then on the opposite side of +the river, the depth of which is eight feet: beyond these banks +the course of the river trends to the eastward towards a low +point, upon which there is a solitary tree; an extensive bank +fronts this point, and the channel continues on the western +shore, ten feet deep. Here the river is a mile broad; it then +increases its width, and forms spacious bays on either side, that +were not examined. To the South-East is an opening, which may +probably be an arm of the river; it was called MOREAU INLET; it +was not examined. Opposite to it is a sharp point, fronted by a +shoal, and the channel is on the eastern side of the river, with +thirteen feet water. Here the river widens and forms a basin, two +miles and a half wide: a little above this the river is blocked +up by shoals and islets (HEIRISSON ISLES) between which the depth +is not more than two or three feet, but afterwards deepens +gradually from five to fifteen feet: the banks of the river are +then not more than one-third of a mile wide, and then continue in +a serpentine course, with a channel from seven to ten feet deep, +and free from shoals, as far as the French boats examined it. The +stream of the river ran very slowly, and winds through a valley, +one side of which is abrupt and precipitous, and when it ceases +to be so on one side, the heights immediately appear on the +other."</p> +<p>In front of this river is a group of islands, of which two +only are of large size, namely, ROTTNEST and BUACHE. We anchored +on the north side of the former, but broke the fluke, from the +rocky nature of the bottom. On the North-East side of the island, +the anchorage is better, since it is more sheltered. Rottnest +Island is five miles long: it was discovered by Vlaming in 1696. +Its shores are very rocky and difficult to land upon, +particularly those of its northern side, which is fronted by +rocks. Off its north point there are some rocky islets, and on +the north-east side a convenient landing place in a sandy bay, +where boats may put ashore with great facility. The island is +covered with a pine-like tree, which is very good for fire-wood, +but no fresh water was found in any part; the French were equally +unsuccessful in their search. The north-east point of Rottnest +Island is in 31 degrees 59 minutes 30 seconds South, and 115 +degrees 31 minutes 12 seconds East; and the variation 4 degrees +50 minutes West. BUACHE ISLAND, according to Captain De +Freycinet's account (page 170) is equally difficult to land upon; +it is well wooded, but destitute of fresh water.</p> +<p>To the south of CAPE PERON is a long range of sandy coast, for +seventy miles, to GEOGRAPHE BAY, which is open and exposed to the +northward and north-west; its western head is formed by Cape +Naturaliste, a rocky point, in latitude 33 degrees 27 minutes 30 +seconds, and longitude 114 degrees 57 minutes 53 seconds, beyond +which the coast extends to the southward, without any bays to +Cape Leeuwin. Off the cape is Naturaliste Reef, in latitude 33 +degrees 12 minutes, and longitude 114 degrees 59 minutes 8 +seconds; it was seen by the French expedition. The land is here +of a moderate height, but of level aspect. There is a remarkable +patch of bare sand, in latitude 34 degrees 12 minutes, and +longitude 114 degrees 57 minutes. It is the Tache blanche +remarquable of De Freycinet's chart. It lies about seven miles +from the south extreme of the island.</p> +<hr align="center" width="20%"> +<h4>APPENDIX A. SECTION 6.</h4> +<p align="center">OF THE WINDS AND WEATHER UPON THE SOUTH COAST. +DIRECTIONS FOR KING GEORGE THE THIRD'S SOUND, AND HYDROGRAPHICAL +REMARKS RELATING TO BASS STRAIT.</p> +<p>SOUTH COAST.</p> +<p>Between the meridians of Cape Leeuwin and Bass Strait, the +weather is generally very unsettled and tempestuous; and, at +certain seasons, very much against a ship making the western +passage from Port Jackson, which is by passing through Bass +Strait, and along the south coast; but it so happens that at the +time when ships cannot proceed through Torres Strait, by reason +of the Westerly Monsoon, namely, from the month of December to +that of March, easterly winds prevail upon the south coast, and +are more regular and strong in that space between the land and +the parallel of Bass Strait.* I have been told that the +south-westerly gales that sometimes occur during that season, +seldom, if ever, blow home upon the coast; and that when they do +reach the land, they partake more of the character of the sea +breeze; be that as it may, a ship steering to the westward should +keep to the north of 40 degrees, in order to benefit by the +regularity of the wind, which to the south of that parallel +generally blows from some western quarter. From April to October +the westerly gales are very constant, and veer between South by +West and North by East; but, in the months of June and July, +seldom veer to the southward of South-West or northward of +North-West; they are then accompanied by a deep and heavy sea. +The wind, in the summer season, generally revolves with the sun, +and, as the atmosphere becomes more dense, veers to the +South-East, with fine weather.</p> +<blockquote>(*Footnote. Horsburgh volume 2 page +506.)</blockquote> +<p>The marine barometer is here of considerable importance, as +its rise always precedes a south-east wind, and its fall a change +from the North-West; it seldom, however, stands lower than +twenty-nine and a half inches. The currents generally set to the +north, and seldom run with any velocity either to the east or +west. A ship steering along this coast to the eastward, bound to +Port Jackson through Torres Strait, should steer upon the +parallel of 41 degrees, to avoid being thrown into the bight to +the west of Cape Northumberland, where with a South-East wind, +that would otherwise be fair for carrying her through Bass +Strait, she would be detained probably a week.</p> +<p>Upon making Van Diemen's Land, she is ready for either a +northerly or a southerly wind; since, with the former, she can +round Van Diemen's Land, without suffering much detention, or +materially lengthening her voyage.</p> +<p>KING GEORGE THE THIRD'S SOUND was discovered by Captain +Vancouver in the year 1791, on his celebrated voyage to the +North-west Coast of America. It offers an excellent resort for +vessels, and is convenient for all the purposes of refitting, +wooding, and watering. The natives are friendly; the banks of +Oyster Harbour afford a large abundance of oysters and other +shell-fish, and the harbours and rivers are well-stocked with +fish and birds.</p> +<p>There are many convenient anchorages in the sound; the best +place for a large ship, when it is necessary to refit the rigging +at the same time that she is completing her wood and water, is +PRINCESS ROYAL HARBOUR; but for a small vessel, not drawing more +than eleven feet, OYSTER HARBOUR is preferable, because she is +secured to within one hundred yards of the shore, and therefore +better situated for the protection of her people at their +occupations from the natives, who are numerous, and will daily +visit them. But, for a ship only wanting fuel and water, there is +a sandy bay in the south-west corner of the sound, in which two +or three streams of excellent water run into the sea over the +sand, from which a ship might complete her hold in a day or two, +by digging a well to collect it. Wood may also be procured at +this place, but not of so large a size, or perhaps of so good a +quality as at other parts. This bay is readily found, by its +being the first to the westward of a rocky point, that projects +from some remarkable bare sand hillocks, as also from its being +the second sandy beach to the westward of the low flat rocky +islet at the back of Seal Island.</p> +<p>The anchorage is good, being a bottom of sand and weeds, and +is sufficiently protected from easterly winds by BREAKSEA and +MICHAELMAS ISLANDS. The anchorage between SEAL ISLAND and the +first sandy beach to the westward of BALD HEAD, with the low flat +rocky islet bearing west, in six or seven fathoms sand and weeds, +should be preferred during the summer months; for the easterly +winds then prevail, and sometimes blow strong, even as late as +March; the anchorage is landlocked, excepting in the direction of +East by North, the only quarter to which it is exposed, and even +in that direction the angle subtending the sea horizon is not +greater than ten degrees of the circle, which is of insignificant +consequence.</p> +<p>There is no water nearer to this anchorage than in the sandy +bay above mentioned, but the distance is trifling for a ship that +can send boats with men enough to protect themselves while +employed in filling the casks, for notwithstanding the friendly +communication we have had with the inhabitants of this sound, +they are not to be trusted, unless their character is different +from the rest of their countrymen that we have seen.</p> +<p>Water is procured at Princess Royal and Oyster Harbours by +digging holes at the edge of the sand under the hills; but, at +the latter place, the stream that we used outside the bar affords +plenty, of excellent quality, without the trouble of digging.</p> +<p>Over the bar of Oyster Harbour there is not more than ten and +a half feet at low water, and in the neaps twelve feet at high +water; but it is likely that, at spring-tides, there may be +fourteen feet, or perhaps more if the wind is blowing into the +harbour; but during the springs high water always takes place at +night, and it would not, therefore, be prudent to attempt to pass +the bar at that time.</p> +<p>A vessel intending to go to Oyster Harbour should anchor off +the sandy beach immediately to the eastward of the entrance, that +is, between the breakers off the point and the bar, in three +fathoms sand, bringing the summit of Green Island, in the +harbour, on with the extremity of the bushes of the west point of +entrance, and the highest part of Breaksea Island in a line with +the outer point of the bay: a boat should then be sent to sound +the bar. The mark for the deepest part is when the western summit +of some flat-topped land, at the back of Oyster Harbour, is a +little open of the rocks off the east side of the entrance.</p> +<p>After the bar is passed, the channel is deepest when the +centre of the flat land is kept midway between the points of +entrance, avoiding a spit of rocks that projects from the rocky +point at the west end of the watering beach. The strongest winds +are from the westward, and therefore bower anchors should be +placed to the south-west and north-west: warps and the stream +cable will be sufficient to secure her from easterly winds, as +the hills rise immediately over the vessel on that shore. If the +run of water outside the bar should fail, holes may be dug at the +edge of the grass, about three feet deep, which will yield a +sufficient quantity in two or three days for any vessel that can +pass over it.</p> +<p>The flood-tide in the entrance generally ran sixteen hours, +and ebbed eight hours. High water at full and change took place +at 10 hours 10 minutes at night; but on the bar the rise and fall +was very irregular, and a vessel going in should pay great +attention to the depth, if her draught is more than ten feet, for +it sometimes rises suddenly two feet. The spring-tides take place +about the third or fourth day after new or full moon. The +variation here is about 7 degrees East. The situation of Seal +Island, from Captain Flinders' observations, is in latitude 35 +degrees 4 minutes 55 seconds, and longitude 117 degrees 58 +minutes 7 seconds.</p> +<p>A small island was reported in the Sydney Gazette to have been +seen in latitude 36 degrees 27 minutes, and longitude 127 degrees +2 minutes East; but as the account says, that Kangaroo Island was +seen the same day, which is not less than one hundred and fifty +leagues from the above position, it appears too vague to be +correct. (See Horsburgh Supp. page 32.)</p> +<p>BLACK PYRAMID, off the north-west end of Van Diemen's Land, in +Bass Strait, is situated about 4 minutes too much to the +southward on Captain Flinders' chart.</p> +<p>BELL'S ROCK. The following account of a rock, seen by Mr. +Bell, the Commander of the ship Minerva, on her outward-bound +passage to New South Wales, appeared in a Sydney (New South +Wales) Gazette, of the 16th of December, 1824.</p> +<p>"On the 14th of November the Minerva very narrowly escaped +striking on a rock, in the fairway of the west entrance to Bass +Strait, on the south side of King's Island. Reid's rocks bearing +North six miles, and the Black Pyramid East-South-East: from this +situation the danger was about half a mile off (to the +southward); but as the water broke only at intervals of three or +four minutes, although the swell was very heavy, it is probable +there may be sufficient depth of water to carry a ship over it. +An indifferent observation made the latitude of the ship at the +time 40 degrees 26 minutes."</p> +<p>In M. De Freycinet's chart of Bass Strait, some rocky islets +are placed forty miles east of Sea-Elephant Bay. I did not +succeed in finding them, although the Mermaid sailed close to +their position. (See volume 1.)</p> +<p>The PYRAMID, at the east end of Bass Strait, is placed five +miles too much to the northward: its true situation is in +latitude 39 degrees 52 minutes 40 seconds, and longitude 147 +degrees 11 minutes 30 seconds.</p> +<p>A reef of rocks were seen by Lieutenant John Lamb, R.N., off +Cape Albany Otway. (See Horsburgh volume 2 page 499.)</p> +<p>There appears to be a considerable difference in the positions +assigned to ALBATROSS ISLAND, by the French expedition and +Captain Flinders; the former made the difference between the +meridian of Albatross Island, and that of the rock in +Sea-Elephant Bay, 24 minutes 45 seconds; whilst by the latter it +is 32 minutes 30 seconds. But as Captain Flinders only saw the +north end of KING'S ISLAND, the error seems to originate in his +having laid down its eastern side from other authorities, for his +difference of longitude between its north-west point and the +centre of Albatross Island only differs 2 minutes 30 seconds from +the French, who surveyed that island with great care.</p> +<p>Several sunken rocks have been discovered from time to time +near the north end of GREAT ISLAND, so that ships, bound through +Bass Strait to the eastward, should not pass within Craggy Island +without using great caution. The best passage is on the south +side of Kent's Group, between it and the rocky islet (WRIGHT'S +ROCK) to the south-east.</p> +<p>In a line between the above rocky islet and Craggy Island, and +about two miles from the former, is a reef with two small rocks +upon it. (See Horsburgh Supp. page 32.)</p> +<p>There are some considerable errors in Captain Flinders' chart +of Van Diemen's Land, with respect to the latitudes of the +South-west Cape, the Mewstone, the South cape, and the land +between them. The first is laid down 8 minutes too much to the +North 30 degrees West (true) and the other places in proportion. +The corrected situations are given in the second volume of this +work.</p> +<hr align="center" width="20%"> +<h4>APPENDIX A. SECTION 7.</h4> +<p align="center">DESCRIPTION OF THE SHOALS AND REEFS IN THE +NEIGHBOURHOOD OF THE COASTS OF AUSTRALIA.</p> +<p>REEFS, EAST COAST.</p> +<p>ELIZABETH'S REEF (see Horsburgh's Supp. page 52) in latitude +30 degrees 5 minutes, and longitude 159 degrees, was discovered +by the ships Claudine and Marquis of Hastings, on the 16th of +May, 1820. Within two cables' length of the reef, they found +fourteen fathoms; at a quarter of a mile off the depth was +twenty-five fathoms, but beyond that the bottom was not reached. +It is about three miles in circuit, with deep water in the +centre: the edge is covered, but some straggling rocky lumps show +at intervals above the surface of the water. The east side of the +reef extends about North-North-East and South-South-West for one +mile, but the greatest extent seemed to be West-North-West and +East-South-East.</p> +<p>MIDDLETON'S SHOAL is in latitude 29 degrees 14 minutes, and +longitude 158 degrees 53 minutes. (See Horsburgh volume 2 page +508.)</p> +<p>CATO'S BANK is in latitude 23 degrees 6 minutes, and longitude +155 degrees 23 minutes. (Flinders volume 2 page 298 and Horsburgh +volume 2 page 509.)</p> +<p>WRECK REEF is in latitude 22 degrees 11 minutes 23 seconds, +and longitude 155 degrees 18 minutes 50 seconds. (Flinders volume +2 page 330 and Horsburgh volume 2 page 509.)</p> +<p>CARNS, or MID-DAY REEF, was discovered by Mr. Carns, the +master of the ship Neptune, on the 21st of June, 1818, having +taken a departure the day before from Sandy Cape. It extends east +and west for a considerable distance: the ship passed round the +western extremity at two miles off, and found its bearing from +Sandy Cape to be North 21 degrees East, one hundred and +seventy-six miles, and to be in latitude 21 degrees 58 minutes, +and longitude 154 degrees 20 minutes. Its eastern limit was not +seen: it consists of a string of sandbanks and rocks, from five +to twenty feet high, with passages between them. (Horsburgh Supp. +page 35.)</p> +<p>SIR JAMES SAUMAREZ' SHOAL was seen by Mr. Lihou; it is in +latitude 21 degrees 40 minutes, and longitude 153 degrees 46 +minutes by chronometer, which was found correct on making Sandy +Cape a day or two afterwards. There is reason to suppose that +many other reefs exist to the North-West of this position.</p> +<p>KENN'S REEF, discovered by Mr. Alexander Kenn, Master of the +ship William Shand, on her passage from Sydney to Batavia, +extends in the direction of North West by North 1/2 North for ten +miles, and is composed of sand and rocks, some of which, at the +south end, were six or eight feet out of the water: it is six +miles broad; the centre of the edge (? north) is in latitude 21 +degrees 9 minutes, and longitude 155 degrees 49 minutes (by +chronometer and lunars): it was found to bear South 67 degrees +West, six miles from Bird Islet, of Wreck Reef.</p> +<p>BOOBY and BELLONA SHOALS. In the neighbourhood of these reefs, +Lieutenant John Lamb, R.N., Commander of the ship Baring, was +embarrassed for three days, in which interval he was sounding in +between nineteen and forty-five fathoms, and frequently passed +shoal parts, upon which the sea was breaking. The limits assigned +by this officer to the extent of the rocky ground, are the +parallels of 20 degrees 40 minutes, and 21 degrees 50 minutes, +and the meridians of 158 degrees 15 minutes and 159 degrees 30 +minutes. A sandy islet was also seen by him, surrounded by a +chain of rocks in 21 degrees 24 1/2 minutes South, and 158 +degrees 30 minutes East. The ship Minerva also struck soundings +in eight fathoms, with the appearance of shoaler water to the +South-West; this last danger is in a line between the two shoals +in about longitude 159 degrees 20 minutes. (See Horsburgh Supp. +page 35.)</p> +<p>BAMPTON'S SHOAL is laid down in the shape of a horse-shoe, of +not less than forty-five miles in extent; on the north-east end +are two islets with trees. The AVON ISLES are probably near its +south-west extremity: they were seen by Mr. Sumner, Master of the +ship Avon, September 18, 1823; and are described by him as being +three-quarters of a mile in circumference, twenty feet high, and +the sea between them twenty fathoms deep. At four miles North +East by North from them the vessel sounded in twelve fathoms, and +at the same time saw a reef ten or fifteen miles to the +South-East, with deep water between it and the islets. A boat +landed on the south-westernmost islet, and found it inhabited +only by birds, but clothed with shrubs and wild grapes. By +observation, these islands were found to lie in latitude 19 +degrees 40 minutes, and longitude 158 degrees 6 minutes.</p> +<p>A reef is laid down in M. Krusenstern's Atlas of the Pacific +Ocean (1824) in latitude 17 degrees, and longitude 156 degrees, +and is there called MELLISH REEF.</p> +<p>A REEF was seen by the ship FREDERICK, the north-east +extremity of which is laid down in latitude 20 degrees 44 +minutes, and longitude 150 degrees 32 minutes; it is of +semi-circular shape, and extends as far south as 21 degrees 2 +minutes, and appears to be nearly twenty miles wide.</p> +<p>VINE'S HORSE-SHOE SHOAL; its northernmost end is in latitude +20 degrees 5 minutes, and longitude 151 degrees 50 minutes: it +presents its convex, or outer edge, to the Southward, and extends +as far as fifteen miles to the South and East.</p> +<p>DIANA'S BANK is placed in latitude 15 degrees 38 minutes, and +longitude 150 degrees 28 minutes. (Horsburgh volume 2 page +509.)</p> +<p>BETWEEN the parallels of 16 degrees 50 minutes and 17 degrees +45 minutes, and the meridians of 150 degrees 30 minutes and 152 +degrees 30 minutes, there are several very extensive reefs, +various parts of which have been seen, according to the following +accounts.</p> +<p>Lieutenant Vine saw a DRY BANK in latitude 17 degrees 46 +minutes, and longitude 151 degrees 40 minutes. See the account of +the shoal described by M. Tregrosse.</p> +<p>Mr. Brodie, Commander of the brig Alert, in October, 1817, saw +A REEF extending for a considerable distance in a North-East and +South-West direction. The Alert ran along the reef for +twenty-five miles: about the centre Mr. Brodie saw two sand +islets in latitude 17 degrees 2 minutes, and longitude 151 +degrees 49 minutes.</p> +<p>LIHOU'S SHOAL, probably a part of the above reefs seen by +Lieutenant Vine and from the Alert, lies in latitude 17 degrees +25 minutes, and longitude 151 degrees 45 minutes: it is forty-six +miles in length, and lies North-North-East and +South-South-West.</p> +<p>A very extensive RANGE OF SHOALS and ISLETS was seen by M. +Tregrosse, of the French brig Les Trois Freres, in company with +the brig Jessie, in 1821, according to the subjoined account.</p> +<p>On the 19th June, the two brigs in company fell in with a +range of reefs, terminated to the eastward by two sandy islets, +the easternmost of which is in 151 degrees 47 minutes (149 +degrees 27 minutes East of Paris); the vessels hauled to the wind +immediately, but finding they could not pass to windward, bore +up, and ran along the shoal from eight a.m. to four p.m., at the +distance of a league and a half. Altogether they counted seven +islets, three of which were covered with shrubs, and the whole +connected by a reef, on the edge of which the sea broke heavily: +they were called GOVERNOR FARQUHAR'S GROUP: the westernmost islet +is in 17 degrees 39 minutes, and 151 degrees 27 minutes (149 +degrees 7 minutes East of Paris) and appeared to terminate the +group. As it was near sunset, the vessels hauled to the wind for +the night, and at daylight bore up on a north course: soon +afterwards they saw an islet West-North-West; they, however, +continued to steer North until eight o'clock, and then, having +run nine miles, saw another island North-North-East. On +attempting to steer between the isles, they were found to be +connected, and having sounded in eleven fathoms, the vessels bore +up, and steered between the westernmost islet and two extensive +reefs, through a passage five or six miles wide, that appeared to +be clear.</p> +<p>The westernmost islet is in 17 degrees 42 minutes South, and +150 degrees 43 minutes East (148 degrees 23 minutes East of +Paris) and the westernmost reef, in 17 degrees 44 minutes South, +and 150 degrees 32 minutes East (148 degrees 12 minutes East of +Paris). A space of ten or twelve leagues between Governor +Farquhar's Group and that seen the preceding day was passed in +the night, and probably may contain other reefs. The last group +was named TREGROSSE'S ISLETS.</p> +<p>NORTH COAST.</p> +<p>The ALERT struck on a shoal to the westward of Torres Strait +in 1817; it seemed to be about two hundred fathoms in length, and +about fifty yards broad: it is in latitude 9 degrees 52 minutes, +and longitude 140 degrees 50 minutes.</p> +<p>In the vicinity of Cape Van Diemen there are many submarine +coral banks, that are not yet shoal enough to be called reefs; +that which Captain Flinders saw, and sounded upon in seven +fathoms, lies in 9 degrees 56 minutes latitude, and 129 degrees +28 minutes longitude. The Alert also passed over a shoal patch +with nine fathoms in 10 degrees 1 minute South, and 129 degrees 8 +minutes East.</p> +<p>NORTH-WEST COAST.</p> +<p>SAHUL BANK is but very imperfectly known, and its extent by no +means so large as is laid down upon the chart. In that interval, +however, there are probably many reefs, which have been +occasionally seen. Captain Heywood saw a dry part in latitude 11 +degrees 35 minutes and longitude 124 degrees 10 minutes, and +there are shoal soundings in crossing it on the following parts, +namely:</p> +<p><b>COLUMN 1: SOUNDINGS OVER CORAL REEF IN FATHOMS.<br> +COLUMN 2: LATITUDE.<br> +COLUMN 3: LONGITUDE.</b></p> +<p>12 : 11 degrees 21 minutes : 125 degrees 23 minutes.<br> +16 : 11 degrees 10 minutes : 125 degrees 27 minutes.<br> +12 : 11 degrees 7 minutes : 125 degrees 30 minutes.<br> +15 : 10 degrees 57 minutes : 125 degrees 34 minutes.</p> +<p>All of which are detached and separated by deep water. (See +Horsburgh volume 1 page 103.)</p> +<p>CARTIER ISLAND, seen in 1800 by the ship Cartier, is a dry +sand bank surrounded by a shoal extending for four miles to the +northward. It is in 12 degrees 29 minutes South, and 123 degrees +56 minutes East, by chronometer.</p> +<p>Captain Heywood in 1801 saw the following reefs. The centre of +one in latitude 12 degrees 48 minutes, and longitude 124 degrees +25 minutes; and the other in 13 degrees 29 minutes, and 124 +degrees 5 minutes.</p> +<p>HIBERNIA SHOAL, seen by Mr. Samuel Ashmore, Commander of the +ship Hibernia, consists of two small sandbanks in the centre of a +shoal, four miles in extent, lying in an east and west direction. +It is in latitude 11 degrees 56 minutes, and longitude 123 +degrees 28 minutes, by chronometers.</p> +<p>Mr. Ashmore also saw another shoal in 1811, the particulars of +which are detailed in the following letter.</p> +<p>"The north-east end of the shoal, fell in with on the 11th +June, 1811, by a good noon observation, is in 12 degrees 11 +minutes South, longitude by chronometer 122 degrees 58 minutes 30 +seconds (allowing the south head of Port Jackson to be in 151 +degrees 25 minutes 25 seconds). To the westward of the barrier of +black rocks, that presented themselves to our view, were several +sandbanks, the highest of which, on the east end, appeared to +have some vegetation: the rocks in general were six or eight feet +above the water and the surf broke violently on the North-East +and South-East points in view. The shoal trends in a West by +North direction for six or seven miles," It is distinguished on +the chart by the name of ASHMORE'S SHOAL.</p> +<p>SCOTT'S REEF (see Horsburgh volume 1 page 102) was discovered +by Captain Heywood, R.N., in 1811: the north-west end is in +latitude 13 degrees 52 1/2, and longitude 121 degrees 59 minutes; +thence it extends South 16 degrees East for eighteen or nineteen +miles to the north-east point, in latitude 14 degrees 1 minute, +and longitude 122 degrees 16 minutes; the south extent was not +ascertained. It is ninety-seven miles due East from the situation +assigned to Dampier's Rocks. The Cartier also struck upon a shoal +hereabouts, and Captain Horsburgh seems to think that there is +little doubt of Scott's Reef being the same that Dampier saw, as +well as that on which the Cartier struck.</p> +<p>ROWLEY'S SHOALS consist of three separate reefs, the +westernmost is the Imperieuse, the middle Clerke's, and the +north-easternmost the Mermaid's. The Imperieuse is ten miles in +length from north to south, and its greatest breadth five miles: +it is surrounded by very deep water and near the eastern edge, in +latitude 17 degrees 35 minutes, and longitude 118 degrees 51 +minutes, are some dry rocks. Clerke's Shoal (south end in +latitude 17 degrees 28 minutes, longitude 119 degrees 18 minutes) +extends to the north-west, and probably joins the Minstrel's +Shoal, which is described below, and, if this is the case, trends +North-North-West 1/2 West for seventeen miles. The south end of +Mermaid's Shoal is in 17 degrees 12 minutes South, and 119 +degrees 35 minutes East, and extends to the northward for seven +miles; but its termination in that direction was not seen. The +edges of all these reefs are steep to; and no bottom was obtained +with one hundred and eighty fathoms. Within the reefs, however, +there is a bank of soundings of the depth of from one hundred and +seventy to one hundred and twenty fathoms. (See Horsburgh volume +1 page 101.)</p> +<p>MINSTREL'S SHOAL (see Horsburgh's Supp. page 52) its +north-east end is in 17 degrees 14 minutes South, and 118 degrees +57 minutes East, or 5 degrees 28 minutes East by chronometer, +from the coast of New Holland in latitude 23 degrees 10 minutes +South. The longitude of that part of the coast by my survey, is +113 degrees 42 minutes; this will make the Minstrel's Shoal in +119 degrees 10 minutes, which agrees very well with Clerke's +Reef, the centre reef of Rowley's Shoals, of which it is +certainly the north end; so Captain Horsburgh also supposes.</p> +<p>A ship called the LIVELY was wrecked on a coral reef in about +16 degrees 30 minutes South, and 119 degrees 35 minutes East.</p> +<p>RITCHIE'S REEF, or the Greyhound's Shoal. The situation of +this reef is recorded by Captain Horsburgh (see Supp. page 38) to +be in latitude 19 degrees 58 minutes, and longitude 114 degrees +40 1/4 minutes; but, by a letter published in the Sydney Gazette +by Lieutenant Ritchie, R.N., the commander, it would appear to be +in 20 degrees 17 minutes 40 seconds, longitude by lunars 114 +degrees 46 minutes 6 seconds.</p> +<p>ROCK OFF VAN DIEMEN'S LAND.</p> +<p>The Russian ship RURICK, in 1822, saw a dry rock above water +off the south-east coast of Van Diemen's Land, in latitude 44 +degrees, and longitude 147 degrees 45 minutes.</p> +<p>A rock was also seen by the ship LORD SIDMOUTH in 1819, in +latitude 43 degrees 48 minutes, and longitude 147 degrees 15 +minutes.</p> +<hr align="center" width="20%"> +<h4>APPENDIX A. SECTION 8.</h4> +<p align="center">DIRECTIONS FOR THE PASSAGE WITHIN THE REEFS +THROUGH TORRES STRAIT.</p> +<p>INNER ROUTE.</p> +<p>The passage recommended by Captain Flinders for passing +through Torres Strait us by entering the reefs at Murray's +Island; by which route a two-days' passage will carry a ship past +all danger: but, as the space between Wreck Reef and Murray's +Island is strewed with dangers, many of which have been +discovered since the publication of his charts, and of which the +greater number have only been recently seen, it cannot be called +a safe navigation. The dangers consist of low coral islands, +surrounded by extensive reefs, upon which in long and dark nights +a vessel is in momentary danger of striking; the result of which +must be the certain destruction of the vessel, and the probable +loss of the crew. The Inner Route was first pursued by Mr. Cripps +in the brig Cyclops, bound from Port Jackson to Bengal, in 1812. +It was subsequently followed by Lieutenant C. Jeffreys, R.N., in +the command of the hired armed vessel Kangaroo, on her passage +from Port Jackson to Ceylon, in 1815.* This officer drew a chart, +with a track of his voyage up the coast; which, considering the +shortness of his time, and other circumstances that prevented his +obtaining the necessary data to lay down with accuracy so +intricate and dangerous a passage, does him very great credit; he +filled up the space between Endeavour River and Cape Direction, +which Captain Cook did not see; the only part that had previously +been left a blank upon the chart of New South Wales; his outline +was found to be tolerably correct, and my alterations have only +been caused by better opportunities, and by the greater detail of +my operations. The general feature of the coast has scarcely +required correction; the principal corrections have been in the +number, size, and relative bearings of the coral reefs and +islands that front it.</p> +<blockquote>(*Footnote. Horsburgh's Indian Directory volume 2 +page 514.)</blockquote> +<p>In describing this route, the whole of the bearings are +magnetic; and the courses are freed from the effect of tide or +current, since they are only temporary, and often of trifling +importance.*</p> +<blockquote>(*Footnote. In following these directions, reference +should be made to the description of the coast contained in this +Appendix.)</blockquote> +<p>DIRECTIONS.</p> +<p>Having hauled round Breaksea Spit (see Flinders' chart sheet +3) in the evening, it would perhaps be dangerous to steer on +through the night; after running, therefore, to the +West-North-West for five or six leagues, bring to until daylight: +but, if the day is before you, the course from the extremity of +the spit is West-North-West 1/4 West for about a hundred miles. +You will then be about twenty miles from Cape Capricorn: on your +way to which you should pass about three miles within Lady +Elliot's Island, and also within the southernmost islet of +Bunker's Group, by which you will see how the current has +affected your course, and you can act accordingly: if it has set +you to the northward, you may pass on either side of or through +the islands without danger. After making Cape Capricorn, you may +leave it at a convenient distance, and, directing your course +about North West by North, pass either within or without the +Peaked and Flat Islands off Port Bowen; then, steering for the +Percy Group, pass between the 2nd and 3rd Northumberland +Islands.</p> +<p>After passing the latter, avoid a low dangerous rock, that +bears from it North 8 degrees East five miles and three-quarters, +and from 1st Peak South 85 degrees West. To avoid this in the +night, pass close round Number 3, when, its situation being +known, you can easily avoid it.</p> +<p>The channel is safe on either side of the Percy Isles, but +that to the westward of them, being better known, is therefore +recommended as the safest. Then steer either over the Mermaid's +or Bathurst's tracks, which will carry a ship round the +projections of the coast as far as Cape Grafton, as far as which, +if the weather is fine, there can be no danger of proceeding +through the night; but it must be recollected, that at Cape +Grafton the coral reefs approach the coast, and, consequently, +great care must be used.</p> +<p>On reaching Fitzroy Island, round it at a mile off shore, and, +when its north end bears West, steer North-West 1/2 North for +thirty-five miles; you will then be a league to the South-East of +a group of low isles; if it should be night when you pass them, +come no nearer to them than fourteen fathoms. In steering this +course, great care should be taken, not to go too much to the +eastward to avoid the reef which the Tamar saw. (See above.)</p> +<p>If the moon is up the islets will be readily distinguished, +but otherwise it would be more prudent to wait for daylight. This +course will carry a ship over two of my tracks, and the soundings +will be in seventeen, eighteen, and nineteen fathoms. From the +low isles direct your course for the Hope Islands, which bear +from the former North 18 degrees West thirty-eight miles, but the +course had better be within that line, to avoid some reefs in +latitude 15 degrees 51 minutes: pass, therefore, within five +miles of Cape Tribulation, when a direct course may be steered +either to the eastward or westward of the Hope Isles. The better +route will be within the western Hope, and along its reef at the +distance of three-quarters of a mile, by which you will avoid +reef a. When you are abreast of its north end, steer North by +West westerly for twenty-eight miles; this will carry you to Cape +Bedford which you may round at from one to three or four miles. +You will see in your way, at three miles and a half from the +north end of the Hope Reef, reef b; and at fifteen miles from it +you will be abreast of e; and five miles farther on you will pass +Captain Cook's Turtle Reef, which has a dry sand at its north +end. These three reefs will be to the eastward of your +course.</p> +<p>The current sets to the North-West, so that your course must +be directed accordingly. In coasting along the shore, you will +discern the summits which are marked on the chart. The high +conical hill, on the south side of the entrance of Endeavour +River, is Mount Cook, bearings of which, crossed with the summit +of Cape Bedford, or any of the particularized summits or points +will give the vessel's place, by which the effects of the +current, which is generally very slight, will be perceived: on +one occasion we found a current in the space between the +Endeavour Reef and Turtle Reef of two miles an hour to the +North-West.</p> +<p>Being off Cape Bedford, and steering to the North 1/2 West, +you will see the Three Isles ahead: steer between them and the +low wooded island; and direct your course round Cape Flattery and +Point Lookout, to anchor under the Turtle Group, unless you have +time before dark to reach the islands 4, 5, or 6, of Howick's +Group. Under which anchorage may be found. In rounding Point +Lookout, do not come within two miles and a half of it, to avoid +a reef that is on Captain Cook's chart, but which we did not see; +it lies a mile and a half north from the peaked hill at the +extremity of the point. You may pass without the Turtle Group, or +you will find anchorage under Lizard Island, but this is not +recommended, both because the wind is generally fresher as you +increase your distance from the shore, and because it lengthens +the distance.</p> +<p>From the Turtle Group steer North West by West 1/2 West until +you see the hillock at the south-east end of Number 1 of Howick's +Group: then pass inside and within a mile of 2 and 3, and between +islet 4 and Cole's Islands, and inshore of 6 and the dry sands s, +t, and u. The Mermaid's track will direct the course to Cape +Melville. If the day is late when abreast of 6, of Howick's +Group, anchorage had better be secured under it, as there is none +to be recommended between it and Cape Flinders.</p> +<p>Upon rounding Cape Melville, the Islands of Flinders' Group +will be seen; and as soon as you have passed round the stony reef +that projects off the Cape (the extremity of which bears from it +by compass North West by North, and from Pipon's Island +South-West by West 1/4 West nearly) in doing which steer within +the reef that surrounds Pipon Island, direct the course for the +extremity of the islands, which is Cape Flinders; the course and +distance being West 3/4 South nearly thirteen miles: on this a +low woody island will be left on the starboard hand.</p> +<p>His Majesty's sloop Satellite, in 1822, grounded upon a small +reef, bearing North by East (easterly) from the extremity of the +cape, distant about two miles; but, as a ship may pass within a +stone's throw of the cape, this danger may be easily avoided. The +best anchorage here is under the flat-topped hill, at a third of +a mile from the shore, in ten fathoms, muddy bottom. In hauling +round the cape, avoid a shoal which extends for a short distance +from the shore on its western side.</p> +<p>If the day is not far advanced, and you have time to run +fifteen miles further, the ship may proceed to the reef d; but, +indeed, anchorage may be obtained under any of the reefs or +islets between this part and Cape Grenville, for the bottom is +universally of mud; and by anchoring with the body of a reef, +bearing South-East, the vessel is sufficiently sheltered from the +sea, which is generally smooth.</p> +<p>On leaving Cape Flinders, steer West 3/4 North for about +twenty-three miles, leaving the reefs c and g to seaward, and d, +e, and f to the southward, of the course; then haul up about +North-West 3/4 North, and steer within the reef l and Pelican +Island, and to seaward of the Claremont Islands 1 and 2, which +are low and woody.</p> +<p>When abreast of 2, the south-west end of the reef m will be +seen, which should be passed at from one to two miles, and the +course North by West 1/4 West will carry you to 4 and 5, which +you may pass on either side of, the channel between them being +quite safe. If you take the latter course, steer north, within +the reef o, and then close within 6, to avoid the low rock that +covers with the tide. Having passed this rock, steer for 7, and +pass within one mile of it, to avoid the shoals that extend off +Cape Sidmouth. Hence the course is North-North-West towards Night +Island; and, when abreast of it, steer North 1/2 West until near +the covered shoal v, when the course may be directed within +Sherrard's Islets and reef 10 (on which there is a sandy islet +covered with some bushes) and then steer round Cape +Direction.</p> +<p>Hence the course North-North-West 1/4 West will carry you +within the reefs y, z, a, b, and c, and without the rocky islet +that lies off Restoration Island: continuing this course you +will, at about five miles beyond the cape, see the long reef e; +steer North-West parallel with its edge, which extends until you +are abreast of Fair Cape, where it terminates with a very narrow +point. Then steer North-West 1/2 North, and pass between the two +easternmost Piper's Islands and the reefs h, i, and k; then pass +on either side of l and m, inshore of Haggerston's Island, and +round the outermost of Sir Everard Home's Group.</p> +<p>The anchorages between Cape Flinders and this are so numerous +as not to require particular mention: the north-west end of every +reef will afford shelter; but the anchor should not be dropped +too near, because the tide sweeps round the edge with greater +strength than it does at half a mile off, within which distance +the bottom is generally deeper. If the day is advanced and the +breeze fresh, Night Island should not be passed: because the +anchorages between it and Piper's Islands are rather exposed; and +a vessel getting underweigh from Night Island at daylight will +easily reach Piper's Islands, or Margaret Bay, before dark.</p> +<p>The latter bay is round Cape Grenville; it is fronted by +Sunday Island, which affords good shelter from the wind: it is a +safe place to stop at.</p> +<p>In passing round Sir Everard Home's Islands, steer wide from +them, to avoid the tide drifting you towards the group, for it +sets to the North-West across the course. The course is then +about North-West 1/4 West to the Bird Isles, and thence, to the +reef v, about North West by North; the better and more direct +plan is to pass within v and w (there is, however, a safe channel +between them) and when abreast of the west end of the latter, the +course to Cairncross Island is North by West 1/2 West, and the +distance about eighteen miles.</p> +<p>There not being any very good anchorage between this and Cape +York, it would be perhaps better to anchor under it for the +night, in about fourteen or fifteen fathoms, mud, the island +bearing South-East, but not nearer than half a mile, because, +within that distance, the bottom is rocky.</p> +<p>Leaving Cairncross Island, steer North-North-West 1/4 West +until Escape River is abreast of you, when look out for reef x: +steer within it about North West by North, which will take you +inside the covered reef z. Your course then must be round the +Albany Islands, and hence North West by North for a, which is a +rocky islet that may be seen from abreast the Albany Isles.</p> +<p>The passage through the Possession Isles and Endeavour Strait +is not to be recommended for a large ship, on account of the +shoal water that extends from Wallis' Isles towards Shoal Cape; +but the route round the north end of Wednesday and Hammond's +Islands is preferable. Upon passing reef a, Wednesday Island will +be seen: in steering towards it, avoid standing too close to the +rocky islet that is abreast of the strait between it and Horned +Hill, as some sunken rocks stretch off it for about a quarter of +a mile: steer round the north point of Wednesday Island at half a +mile, and then West by South 1/4 South which will carry you to +the northward of the rock off Hammond's Island. Having passed +this rock, steer South-West by West; and when abreast of the +south-west end of Hammond's Island, haul towards a reef, to the +southward of the course, on which you will see some dry rocks, +which you may pass within half a mile of: you will then avoid +reef d, which is generally, if not always, covered: the fairway +of this channel is seven and eight fathoms deep.</p> +<p>When the summit of Good's Island bears South-West by West, +steer West by South southerly for Booby Island, by which you will +avoid Larpent's bank, and when you have passed it, you are clear +of the strait. Hence you may steer West 3/4 South through the +night, on which course you will very gradually deepen your +water.</p> +<hr align="center" width="20%"> +<h4>APPENDIX A. SECTION 9.</h4> +<p align="center">TABLE: DIP OF THE MAGNETIC NEEDLE, OBSERVED +DURING THE MERMAID'S AND BATHURST'S VOYAGES UPON THE COAST OF +AUSTRALIA.</p> +<p><a name="king2-table2a"></a><img alt="" src="images/king2-table2a.jpg"></p> +<p><a name="king2-table2b"></a><img alt="" src="images/king2-table2b.jpg"></p> +<p><a name="king2-table2c"></a><img alt="" src="images/king2-table2c.jpg"></p> +<p><a name="king2-table2d"></a><img alt="" src="images/king2-table2d.jpg"></p> +<hr align="center" width="20%"> +<h4>APPENDIX A. SECTION 10.</h4> +<p align="center">UPON THE GEOGRAPHICAL POSITIONS OF THE FIXED +POINTS OF THE SURVEY.</p> +<p>The observations for determining the longitudes of the various +parts of the coast were taken with a circle and a sextant by +Troughton: besides these valuable instruments we had three +chronometers of Arnold's make, namely, 413 (box) 2054 (pocket) +and 394 (pocket); of which the two first were supplied by the +Admiralty. At the end of the fourth year, in consequence of 394 +having stopped, a fourth chronometer, made by Parkinson and +Frodsham (Number 287 box) was purchased in the colony, and proved +to be a most excellent watch.</p> +<p>The situations of the following places, which were either +fixed by us or adapted from other authorities, served as the +basis of the chronometrical determination of the longitudes of +the intermediate parts.</p> +<p>The flagstaff of FORT MACQUARIE on the north-east head of +Sydney Cove in PORT JACKSON (the Cattle Point of Flinders, and +otherwise Bennelong Point) is in latitude 33 degrees 51 minutes +28 seconds South and longitude 151 degrees 15 minutes 26 East, +being, according to the ensuing table, the mean of all the +observations that have been taken.</p> + +</a><img alt="" src="images/king2-table3.jpg"> + +<p>PERCY ISLAND (Number 2). The longitude of the south-west end +of this island is by Captain Flinders' observation in 150 degrees +13 minutes East. ENDEAVOUR RIVER. The observatory, which was +placed within a few yards of the shore on the south side of the +entrance (the summit of the highest bush near the extremity of +the opposite sandy beach, bearing by compass West 3 degrees 40 +minutes South) was found to be situated in latitude 15 degrees 27 +minutes 4 seconds, and longitude 145 degrees 10 minutes 49 +seconds. (See note, Appendix A.)</p> +<p>GOULBURN ISLANDS. The observations were taken upon Bottle +Rock, the largest of two rocky islets at the north end of +South-west Bay; but the results were so doubtful and +unsatisfactory, that the longitude determined by the chronometers +was preferred. The following are the observations that were taken +to fix its situation, namely:</p> +<p>Latitude by fourteen meridional altitudes of the sun l. l. on +the sea-horizon, taken in various parts of the bay, and reduced +by survey to Bottle Rock 11 37 24.</p> +<p>The difference of longitude between Bottle Rock and Cassini +Island by chronometers, taken in:</p> +<p>1819: 7 40 47.<br> +1820: 7 40 00.<br> +1821: 7 38 28.</p> +<p>Mean difference between Cassini Island and Bottle Rock: 7 39 +45.</p> +<p>Longitude of Cassini Island from Careening Bay, by survey: 125 +38 46.</p> +<p>Longitude of Bottle Rock, by chronometer, from Cassini Island: +133 18 31.</p> +<p>The mean of the results of the lunar distances that were taken +during the years 1818 and 1819, gave for the longitude of the +rock 133 degrees 31 minutes 58 seconds East. On our last voyage +the mean of the Bathurst's and Dick's watches made it 133 degrees +19 minutes 40 seconds, which was finally adapted, since it +accorded better with the chronometrical difference between its +meridian and that of Cassini Island. I have never been able to +account for this extraordinary disagreement between the results +of the lunar distances and the chronometers, since the former +were taken with the sun on both sides of the moon, and seemed to +be very good.</p> +<p>CAREENING BAY. This place was fixed by a series of +observations, in latitude 15 degrees 6 minutes 18 seconds South, +and 125 degrees 0 minutes 46 seconds East. (See Appendix A. in a +note.)</p> +<p>KING GEORGE THE THIRD'S SOUND. The longitude of this place was +adapted from the observations and survey of Captain Flinders, as +follows; namely:</p> +<p>The tent on the east shore of the entrance of Oyster Harbour. +Latitude 35 degrees 0 minutes 17 seconds, and longitude 117 +degrees 56 minutes 22 seconds.</p> +<p>The sandy beach under the low part of the land of Bald Head +(the first sandy bay round the head) is in latitude 35 degrees 6 +minutes, and longitude 117 degrees 58 minutes 6 seconds.</p> +<p>COEPANG, in the Island of Timor. The situation of the +flag-staff of FORT CONCORDIA, where our chronometers were rated, +is in latitude 10 degrees 9 minutes 6 seconds, and longitude 123 +degrees 35 minutes 46 seconds, according to the observations of +Captain Flinders.</p> +<hr align="center" width="20%"> +<p><a name="appendixB"></a></p> +<h3>APPENDIX B.</h3> +<p align="center">CONTAINING A LIST AND DESCRIPTION OF THE +SUBJECTS OF NATURAL HISTORY COLLECTED DURING CAPTAIN KING'S +SURVEY OF THE INTERTROPICAL AND WESTERN COASTS OF AUSTRALIA.</p> +<p>Previously to the establishment of the British Colony at Port +Jackson, in the year 1787, the shores of this extensive continent +had been visited by very few navigators who have recorded any +account of the productions of its Animal Kingdom. The first +authentic report that we have, is that of Vlaming, who is +celebrated as the first discoverer of that rara avis, the black +swan: next to him followed Dampier, who has handed down to us in +his intelligent, although quaint, style, the account of several +of the productions of the North-western and Western Coasts; but +the harvest was reserved for Banks and Solander, the companions +of Cook, whose names are so well and widely known in the fields +of science. These distinguished naturalists were the first +collectors upon the Coast of New South Wales; and although their +labours were not confined to any particular branch of Natural +History, yet Botany appeared to be their chief object, of which +the Banksian Herbarium yields ample proof.</p> +<p>Among the collectors of Natural History, in the neighbourhood +of the colony, since the year 1787, may be recorded the names of +White, Paterson, Collins, Brown, Caley, Lewin, Humphreys, and +Jamison; and in this interval the coasts have been visited by two +English and two French expeditions of discovery; namely, those +commanded by Admiral D'Entrecasteaux, Captains Vancouver and +Flinders, and Commodore Baudin. The first merely touched upon the +south coast at the Recherche's Archipelago, and on the south +shores of Van Diemen's Land; and the second only at King George +the Third's Sound, near the South-west Cape; but these +opportunities were sufficient to celebrate the names of +Labillardiere and Menzies as Australian Botanists, +notwithstanding they have been since eclipsed by the more +extensive discoveries of Mr. Brown, whose collections of Natural +History upon the voyage of Captain Flinders, and his pre-eminent +qualifications, have justly raised him to the pinnacle of +botanical science upon which he is so firmly and deservedly +elevated.</p> +<p>Peron and Lesueur, in Baudin's voyage, extended their +inquiries chiefly among the branches of zoological research; but +in that expedition each department of Natural History had its +separate collector, and the names of Leschenault de la Tour, +Riedle, Depuch, and Bailly, will not be forgotten. Unfortunately, +the Natural History of this voyage has never yet been given to +the world, the death of M. Peron having put a stop to its +publication; a few of the subjects, however, have been taken up +by MM. Lacepede and Cuvier, and other French naturalists, in the +form of monographs, in their various scientific journals; but the +greater part is yet untouched, probably from the want of the +valuable information which died with its collector. M. Peron, in +his historical account of that expedition, notices a few subjects +of zoology that were collected by him, but in so vague a manner, +that it is with very great doubt that the specimens which we +procured, and suspect to be his discoveries, can be compared with +his descriptions. Of the Natural History collections of Captain +Flinders and Mr. Brown, no account has been published, excepting +the valuable botanical works of the latter gentleman.</p> +<p>With respect to the collection which has been formed upon this +expedition, it is to be regretted that the gleanings of the +Animal Kingdom, particularly of quadrupeds and birds, should have +been so trifling in number; and that the students of Natural +History should have suffered disappointment in what might, at +first view, be fairly considered to have arisen from neglect and +careless attention to the subject; but as the principal, and +almost the only, object of the voyage was the survey of the +coast, for which purpose a small vessel was justly considered the +most advantageous, accommodation for a zoological collection was +out of the question. The very few specimens that are now offered +to the world were procured as leisure and opportunity offered; +but many interesting and extremely curious subjects were in fact +obliged to be left behind from want of room, and from our not +possessing apparatus for collecting and preserving them.</p> +<p>A botanical collector for the Royal Garden, Mr. Allan +Cunningham, was attached to the expedition; and this gentleman +did not fail to make a very extensive and valuable collection in +his department, the whole of which is preserved at Kew.</p> +<p>In making out the Appendix, every species brought home +(excepting three or four fishes) has been mentioned, for the sake +of furnishing materials for the students of Geographical Zoology. +The distribution of animals is a branch of study that has been +very much neglected, which is to be lamented, as it appears +likely to offer a very great assistance to the systematic +Physiologist; and for this reason the species found at the Isle +of France have been added to the list.</p> +<p>For the catalogue and descriptions of the quadrupeds, +reptiles, and shells, I am under obligation to Mr. J.E. Gray, of +the British Museum. Mr. Vigors has kindly assisted me with the +use of his collection, and his valuable advice with respect to +the few specimens of birds that were preserved; and Mr. W.S. +MacLeay has furnished me with a very valuable description of my +entomological collection. I am also indebted to Mr. Cunningham +for his remarks upon the botany of the country; to Mr. Brown, for +his description of a new tree from King George the Third's Sound; +and lastly to Dr. Fitton, for his kindness in drawing up for me a +very interesting geological notice from the specimens that have +been presented to the Geological Society of London, of which he +is one of the most active and scientific members.</p> +<hr align="center" width="20%"> +<h3>VERTEBRATA.</h3> +<h4>MAMMALIA.</h4> +<p align="center">BY JOHN EDWARD GRAY, ESQUIRE, M.G.S., ETC.</p> +<p>1. Pteropus edwardsii, Desm. Mamm. 109.<br> +Madagascar Bat, Edwards' Birds, t. 108.<br> +Vespertilio vampyrus, Lin. Syst. Nat. 1 45.<br> +Flying Fox, Colonists of Port Jackson.</p> +<p>This specimen, caught at Point Cunningham on the North-west +Coast, appears to agree with Edwards' figure, and with the +specimen preserved in the British Museum. There is also one in +the collection of the Linnean Society from Port Jackson. Large +flights of these animals were observed at Port Keats and in +Cambridge Gulf, on the North-west Coast. This bat seems also to +be very abundant on the Friendly Islands, for Forster describes +having seen five hundred hanging upon one casuarina tree. +Forster, page 187.</p> +<p>2. Canis australiae.<br> +Canis familiaris australasiae, Desmarest, Mamm. 191.<br> +Australasian Dog, or Dingo, Shaw's Zool. 1 278, t. 76.</p> +<p>This animal is common in the neighbourhood of Port Jackson, +and dogs, to all appearance of the same species, are found on all +parts of the coast. Captain King presented a living specimen to +Sir Everard Home, Bart., who sent it to Exeter Change. In +considering this species as distinct from the common dog, I am +supported by the opinion of Mr. William MacLeay*. (See Linnean +Transactions 13.) (*Footnote. No such opinon has been expressed +by Mr. W. S. Macleay in the place alluded to.--P.P.K. [added in +"errata"])</p> +<p>Captain King informs me that these dogs never bark, in which +particular they agree with the Linnean account of the American +dog; that, in their appearance and cunning disposition, they +resemble the fox; and although occasionally domesticated in New +South Wales, they never lose the sly habits peculiar to their +breed, nor can be prevented from killing poultry or biting +sheep.</p> +<p>This dog, however, seems to be quite a distinct species from +that found in the South Sea Islands, which Forster describes as +being "of a singular race: they mostly resemble the common cur, +but have prodigious large heads, remarkably little eyes, prick +ears, long hair, and a short bushy tail. They are chiefly fed +with fruit at the Society Isles; but in the Low Isles and New +Zealand, where they are the only domestic animals, they live upon +fish. They are exceedingly stupid, and seldom or NEVER BARK, only +howl now and then." Forster's Observations, page 189.</p> +<p>3. Otaria cinerea, Peron et Lesueur. Voyage aux Terres +Austral. ij. 75.</p> +<p>The head of a species, agreeing with the short description of +Peron, was brought home by the expedition, but that it is the one +intended by these authors, there is great room to doubt. I am +informed that specimens of Peron's animal are in the Paris +Museum, but Desmarest and Frederic Cuvier, who have both lately +written upon seals, have only copied the very short specific +character given by Peron. The head of our specimen is gray, +covered with rather short, rigid, hairs, and without any woolly +fur. The ears are short, conical.</p> +<p>It is very distinct from the Otaria Falklandica of Desmarest +(the Phoca falklandica* of Shaw) by the want of the woolly +substance under the hair (called fur by the seal-fishers) and by +the length of the ear, which in the latter species, described by +Shaw, is long and awl-shaped.</p> +<blockquote>(*Footnote. The specimen in the Museum, which I take +for this species, was brought by Captain Peake from New South +Shetland: it differs from Pennant's, and consequently from all +succeeding descriptions that are taken from him, in having five +instead of four claws and toes to the hind foot.)</blockquote> +<p>Captain King in his manuscript observes, that this seal is +found at Rottnest Island on the West Coast, and at King George +the Third's Sound. It appeared also to be the same species that +frequents Shark's Bay; and, if it is M. Peron's Otaria cinerea, +it is also found as far to the eastward as Kangaroo Island.</p> +<p>The head is deposited in the Linnean Society's collection.</p> +<p>4. Petaurista sciurea, Desm. N. Dict. H.N. 25 403.<br> +Didelphis sciurea, Shaw's Zool. 1 t. 113.<br> +Sugar Squirrel, Colonists of Port Jackson.</p> +<p>A well preserved natural skeleton of this animal was brought +home and deposited in the British Museum.</p> +<p>5. Acrobata pygmaea, Desm. Mamm. 270.<br> +Didelphis pygmaea, Shaw's Gen. Zool. 1 t. 114.<br> +Phalangista pygmaea, Geoffr. manuscripts.<br> +Petaurus pygmaeus, Desm. N. Dict. H.N. 25 405.<br> +Opossum Mouse, Colonists at Port Jackson.</p> +<p>This little animal, the smallest and most beautiful of the +opossum tribe, is exceedingly numerous in the vicinity of Port +Jackson. It was first described by Dr. Shaw in his Zoology of New +Holland. There are several specimens in the Linnean Society's +collection. The above is placed in the British Museum.</p> +<p>6. Delphinorhynchus pernettensis ?<br> +Delphinus pernettensis, Blainville.<br> +Delphinus delphis, var. Bonnaterre, Ency. Cetol. 21.<br> +Dauphin, Pernetty, Voyage aux Isles Malouines, 99. t. 2. f. +1.</p> +<p>A head, apparently belonging to this species, was brought home +and deposited in the collection of the British Museum. This +animal is very common upon the northern coasts of New +Holland.</p> +<p>Captain King, in his manuscript, remarks, that the coasts of +New South Wales, and the north-western side of New Holland, +abound in cetaceous animals. Upon the North-east Coast, within +the reefs, the sea is crowded with Balaena physalis, Linn., or +fin-backed whales, as they are called by the whalers, who pay +little attention to them, on account of the danger of approaching +them. His boats were sometimes placed in critical situations from +these animals suddenly rising to the surface of the water close +to them, and lashing the sea with their tremendous fins, and +their occasionally leaping out of the water, and falling down +with a crushing weight. Their colour is generally of a cinereous +hue, but a few were noticed that were variegated black and white. +The whales of the North-west Coast appeared to be of the same +species, but of a darker colour. At one of the anchorages, near +Cape Leveque (volume 2 page 91) the brig was for a whole night +surrounded by these enormous fish, and the crew in momentary +dread of their falling on board, the consequence of which would +have been very disastrous. The noise of their fall in the water, +on a calm night, was as loud as the report of a cannon.</p> +<hr align="center" width="20%"> +<h3>AVES.</h3> +<p align="center">THIS COLLECTION HAS BEEN PRESENTED TO THE +LINNEAN SOCIETY, IN WHOSE CABINETS THEY ARE NUMBERED ACCORDING TO +THE ORDER IN WHICH THEY ARE HERE INSERTED.</p> +<p>1. Halcyon sacra. Swainson.<br> +Alcedo sacra, Ind. Orn. 1 250.<br> +Sacred Kingfisher, Latham, 4 25.</p> +<p>This bird was taken at sea, in the neighbourhood of Cambridge +Gulf, on the North-west Coast, having probably been blown off by +a strong land wind.</p> +<p>2. Barita tibicen. Cuvier.<br> +Coracias tibicen, Ind. Orn. sup. 27.<br> +Piping roller, Latham, 3 86.</p> +<p>3. Barita varia. Cuvier.<br> +Coracias varia, Ind. Orn. 1 173.<br> +Pied roller, Latham, 3 86.</p> +<p>This appears to be a young specimen.</p> +<p>4. Centropus phasianus. Illiger.<br> +Cuculus phasianus, Ind. Orn. Sup. 30.<br> +Polophilus phasianus, Leach, Zool. Misc. plate 46.<br> +Pheasant Cuckoo, Latham, 3 240.</p> +<p>This bird is found upon all parts of the coast of New South +Wales north of Port Jackson, as well as upon the eastern part of +the North-west Coast. Its habitat in Australia is known to extend +as wide as twenty-four degrees of latitude, and twenty-six +degrees of longitude. This specimen was taken at Endeavour River, +on the East Coast. There is also another specimen of this bird in +the Linnean Society's collection, that was taken in the +neighbourhood of Port Jackson.</p> +<p>5. Meliphaga corniculata. Lewin.<br> +Merops corniculata, Ind. Orn. 1 276.<br> +Knob-fronted Honey-eater, Latham, 4 161.</p> +<p>This bird is found upon the whole extent of the Eastern +Coast.</p> +<p>The next bird in the collection has been arranged by Dr. +Latham in the Linnean genus Gracula, but appears to me to agree +in no respect with that genus, as originally characterized by +Linnaeus, much less with it as it has been modified by modern +ornithologists. Whether we consider, according to M. Cuvier,* +that the type of Gracula is the Paradisea tristis, Linn., or, +according to M. Temminck, that it is the Gracula religiosa, +Linn.,** in which latter opinion I feel rather disposed to +acquiesce, my bird agrees with the group in none of its essential +characters. In fact, the Linnean genus Oriolus is that to which +it bears the closest resemblance in its general appearance; +particularly by a similar disposition of its colours, and in the +structure of its bill, wings, and legs. I would at once refer it +to that genus, but that I have some reason to think that it +belongs to the meliphagous birds, which are so abundant in New +Holland, and which have been observed to assume the appearance of +almost every group in the Insessores. Indeed, some birds of that +country, which have been decided to be meliphagous, such as the +Meliphaga cyanops, Lewin,*** [Graculine Honey-eater, Lath. Syn. 4 +166. sp. Ed. 2da.] and others allied to it, and which differ +little from the bird before us, have so many external relations +with the Orioles, that they probably would be found to arrange +themselves in the same family with them, were it not for the +totally different structure of their tongue, and the consequent +difference in their habits of life. Of the tongue, or mode of +feeding of the bird at present before us, I can myself say +nothing decisively, not having had leisure or opportunity, as I +have already observed, of attending to the more interesting +details of Natural History during the expedition. But general +opinion places this bird among the groups that feed by suction; +and as I have a second species hitherto undescribed, which is +closely allied to it, I prefer forming both provisionally into a +new genus, to referring them to one, from which, although they +agree with it in external appearance, they may be totally remote, +in consequence of their internal anatomy and habits of life. The +error at least will not be so great, and may be easily retrieved. +If the tongue of my birds be found to accord with that of the +Orioles, and not of the Honey-suckers, my group of course must +fall.</p> +<blockquote>(*Footnote. Regne Anim. 1 360.)</blockquote> +<blockquote>(**Footnote. Analyse d'un Syst. Gen. d'Orn. page +52.)</blockquote> +<blockquote>(***Footnote. Birds of New Holland plate +4.)</blockquote> +<h4>Genus MIMETES.*</h4> +<blockquote>(*Footnote. Mimetes, from Greek, imitator; [assuming +the appearance of a different group.])</blockquote> +<p>Rostrum forte, subarcuatum, subcultratum, mandibulis utrisque +apice emarginatis; naribus basalibus, lateralibus, subovalibus, +membrano partim tectis.</p> +<p>Lingua ad sugendum idonea ?</p> +<p>Alae mediocres, rotundatae; remige 1ma brevissima; 2da et 6ta +aequalibus; 3tia et 4ta fere aequalibus; longissimis; 5ta his +paulo breviori: remigum 3tiae ad 6tam inclusam pogoniis externis +in medio gradatim productis.</p> +<p>Pedes subbreves; acrotarsiis scutellatis, scutis quinque; +paratarsiis integris.</p> +<p>Cauda mediocris, fere aequalis.</p> +<p>6. VIRIDIS. M. olivaceo-viridis, subtus albidus nigro guttatim +striatus; alis caudaque nigro-fuscis, illis albido-marginatis, +hac apice albo.</p> +<p>Gracula viridis. Lath. Ind. Orn. supp. page 28.</p> +<p>Caput dorsumque olivaceo-viridia, plumis in medio +longitudinaliter fusco-lineatis. Tectrices superiores +nigro-fuscae, ad apicem albido-marginatae; inferiores albido +nigroque variegatae. Remiges supra fuscae, ad marginem externum +apicemque leviter albido-notatae; subtus pallide fuscae. +Rectrices nigro-fuscae, subtus pallidiores, omnibus, duabus +mediis exceptis, apice albo-maculatis. Rostrum flavum. Pedes +nigri. Longitudo* corporis, 10 1/4; alae a carpo ad remigem +3tiam, 5 7/10; caudae, 4 4/5; tarsi, 17/20; rostri ad frontem, 1 +2/10, ad rictum, 1 3/10.</p> +<blockquote>(*Footnote. My measurement is in inches, and their +component parts.)</blockquote> +7. FLAVO-CINCTUS (n.s.) M. flavo-viridis, subtus pallidior, +capite dorsoque fusco-lineatis, alis caudaque nigris viridi +flavoque variegatis. +<p>Capitis, gulae, dorsique plumae flavo-virides, in medio +fusco-lineatae, hujus lineis latioribus. Tectrices superiores +nigrae, apice flavo-marginatae, pteromatum margine flavo, alis +clausis, fasciam conspicuam formante; inferiores flavee, ad basin +nigro-notatae. Remiges supra nigrae, subtus fuscae; primariis +anguste, secondariis late, apice flavo-marginatis; pogoniis +externis anguste, internis late, flavo-marginatis. Rectrices +supra nigrae flavo-viridi marginatae; subtus pallidiores, +omnibus, duabus mediis exceptis, macula flava lata apicali +notatis. Rostrum flavum, paulo altius, et magis carinatum, quam +rostrum M. viridis. Pedes nigri.</p> +<p>The dimensions of this bird are nearly the same as those of M. +viridis: the bill only slightly differing in being somewhat +higher, and more carinated. The above descriptions will point out +the specific differences between the two birds, which are +strongly apparent, not merely by the M. flavo-cinctus being +marked with yellow where the other bird is white, but by the +general distribution of the colours. In this respect, M. +flavo-cinctus resembles more closely the true Orioles, +particularly in the yellow fascia which is formed on the wing, +when closed by the junction of the apical spots on the quill +coverts.</p> +<p>8. Rallus philippensis. Lin. Syst. 1 263.7. Ind. Orn. 756. +Bris. 5 163. t. 14. f. 1. Plate Enl. 774.</p> +<p>This bird was found upon Booby Island, near Cape York (the +north extremity of New South Wales) and agrees with a specimen +already in the Linnean Society's collection, that was taken in +the neighbourhood of Port Jackson. My bird, being of smaller size +than most of those with which I have compared it, is probably a +young specimen. The rufous band on the breast is narrower than is +usual in the species, originating probably from the same +circumstance: otherwise it agrees precisely.</p> +<p>Rallus philippensis was originally found in the Philippine +Islands. It appears to have a very extensive range, as it +inhabits lands both in the North and South Pacific, as well as in +the Indian Ocean.</p> +<p>9. Haematopus picatus (n.s.)</p> +<p>H. ater; corpore subtus, fascia alarum, uropygio, caudaeque +basi, albis; remigibus primoribus totis nigris.</p> +<p>Rostrum pedesque rubri; collum totum nigrum; tectrices +inferiores primores fuscae, secondariae albae, ad carpum et ad +marginem exteriorem nigro-variegatae; fascia alarum angusta; +remiges primores supra nigrae, subtus fuscae; uropygium album +parce nigro variegatum.</p> +<p>Longitudo corporis ab apice rostri ad apicem caadae, 22; alae +a carpo ad remigem primam, 11; rosri, 3 3/10; tarsi, 2 3/10; +caudae, 5.</p> +<p>Besides the common Oyster-Catcher of Europe, two species have +lately been added to the genus, namely, H. palliatus, Temm., a +native of Brazil, and H. niger, Cuv., from New Holland. The bird +above described approaches more closely to the European species +(H. ostralegus) than to the other two; but may be distinguished +from it by the following characters, namely:</p> +<p>In its dimensions it exceeds the length of the European bird +by six inches, and the other parts in proportion; it wants the +white collar round the neck, which is a very distinctive +character of H. ostralegus; the fascia on the wing is confined to +the extremity of the secondary quill feathers alone, whilst in +the other bird it extends to some of the wing coverts: the +primary quill feathers also are entirely black; whereas the other +has them partially variegated with white: the under wing coverts +also differ, the primary ones being fuscous, and the outer +secondary partially marked with black; whilst the whole of the +under wing coverts in H. ostralegus are white. The uropygium +also, which in the European bird is entirely white, is in our +specimen partially variegated with black. The marginal webs of +the toes are much more dilated. The whitish lunular mark under +the eye of H. ostralegus, is entirely wanting in our species, of +which the margin of the eye seems to be of a reddish tinge, of +the same colour as the bill. This bird is common upon the shores +of the continent generally; it is called by the colonists the Red +Bill.</p> +<p>10. Aptenodytes minor. Gmel. Syst. 1 558.<br> +The Little Penguin, Latham.</p> +<p>This bird is common in all parts of the Southern Ocean. The +above specimen was found at King George the Third's Sound near +the south-west extremity of New Holland. There are two specimens +in the collection marked 9 a, and 9 b.</p> +<p>11. Tachypetes aquila. Vieillot.<br> +Pelecanus Aquila, Gmel. Lin. 1 572.<br> +Frigate Bird.</p> +<p>This specimen was obtained at Ascension, and is common in all +parts of the Atlantic within or near the Tropic.</p> +<p>12. Sterna fuliginosa. Gmel. Lin. 1 605. Ind. Orn. 2 804.<br> +Egg Bird, Forst. Voyage 1 115. Cook, Voyage 1 66, 275.<br> +Noddy, Dampier, 3 pt. 1 99., table page 85. figure 5. +Hawkesworth's Coll. of Voyages, 3 652.<br> +Sooty Tern, Gen. Syn. 6 352. Arc. Zool. 2 Number 447.</p> +<p>There are two specimens of this bird in the collection, marked +12 a, and 12 b.</p> +<p>13. Sterna pelecanoides (n.s.)</p> +<p>S. alba; capitis vertice nigro albo-variegato; dorso, alis, +caudaque canis; remigibus fusco-atris, rhachibus albis.</p> +<p>Colli latera parce cano-maculata; tectrices secundariae +primoribus obscuriores; remiges fusco-atrae, pogoniis internis +fere ad apicem albo-marginatis; rectrices externae fuscae basi +apiceque albis; rostrum subflavum; pedes nigri.</p> +<p>Longitudo corporis, 19 1/4; alae a carpo ad remigem primam, 13 +1/2; caudae, 6 3/4; rostri, ad frontem, 2 1/3, ad rictum, 3 1/6; +tarsi, 1 1/6.</p> +<p>The hallux, or hind toe, of this bird appears to be more +closely united to the fore toes, and to be situated more in front +than is usual among the Terns: it is also to be observed, that +the side of the nail of the middle toe is considerably dilated, +although not serrated, similar to what is observed among the +Pelecanidae. These characters offer a corroboration of the +affinity of the Sternae to the family of the Pelecanidae, and +particularly to the genus Phaeton, which approaches the Terns +more closely than any other group of that family, in the smaller +size of the membrane that unites the toes (see Linnean +Transactions 14 505). It may also be stated on the other hand, +that the same membrane of the Sterna pelecanoides deviates from +its own genus, and approaches the Pelecanidae, in its being more +dilated than usual. The wings are longer than the tail for a +considerable extent, by which our bird also evinces another +character, in common with the long-winged Tachypetes, or Frigate +bird.</p> +<p>14. Larus georgii (n.s.)</p> +<p>L. albus, dorso alisque nigris; rectricibus albis, fascia +media atra.</p> +<p>Rostrum flavum, apice rubro; mandibulae inferioris gonide +maxime angulata; remiges primores atrae, secundariae supra nigrae +apice albo, infra albae; tectrices inferiores albae; pedes +flavi.</p> +<p>Longitudo corporis, 28; alae, a carpo ad remigem primam 18 +3/4; mandibulae, superioris ad frontem, 2 1/3, ad rictum, 3 1/6; +tarsi, 2 11/12; caudae, 8 1/2.</p> +<p>This bird was found at King George the Third's Sound, on the +South-west Coast, in the vicinity of Seal Island.</p> +<hr align="center" width="20%"> +<h3>REPTILIA.</h3> +<p align="center">BY JOHN EDWARD GRAY, ESQUIRE, M.G.S.</p> +<h4>Genus CHLAMYDOSAURUS. Gray.</h4> +<p>Capite depresso; membrana tympani aperta.<br> +Gula pennulis plicatis ornata.<br> +Pedibus quatuor.<br> +Digitis quinque, elongatis, simplicibus.<br> +Cauda elongata, subcylindrica.</p> +<p>Animal scaly; the head depressed; the nostrils placed on the +side, midway between the eyes and the end of the head; the drum +of the ear naked; the front teeth conical, awl-shaped (eight in +the upper, and four in the lower jaw); the hinder ones largest; +the side or cheek teeth compressed, short, forming a single +ridge, gradually longer behind; tongue short, fleshy, with an +oval smooth disk at each side of the lower part of its front +part; neck rather long, furnished on each side with a large +plaited frill, supported above by a crescent-shaped cartilage +arising from the upper hinder part of the ear, and, in the +middle, by an elongation of the side fork of the bone of the +tongue; body compressed; legs rather long, especially the hinder +ones; destitute of femoral pores; feet four, with five toes, the +first having two, the second three, the third four, the fourth +five, and the little finger and toe three joints; claws +compressed, hooked; tail long, nearly round, scaly.</p> +<p>This genus appears to be nearly allied to the Agamae, but +differs from them in the peculiar frill that is appended to the +neck.</p> +<p>1. Chlamydosaurus kingii (n.s.)</p> +<p>C. corpore luteo, nigro, variegato; squamis carinatis; pennula +antice serrata; cauda corpore duplo longiore.<br> +Chlamydosaurus kingii, Gray manuscripts.<br> +Icon. Table A. Natural size.</p> +<p>Inhabits Port Nelson, north-west coast of Australia.</p> +<p>The colour yellowish-brown variegated with black: the head +depressed, with the sides erect, leaving a blunt ridge on the +upper part, in which the eyes are placed: the ridge over the eyes +covered with larger scales than those over the head; eyes rather +small, with a fleshy ridge above them; eye-lids covered with +minute, and surrounded by a delicate serrated ridge of small +upright scales: the lips surrounded by a row of oblong, +four-sided scales, arranged lengthways, the front scale of the +upper lip being the largest: the chin covered with narrow +mid-ribbed scales, with a five-sided one in the centre, and +several of larger size just over the front of the fork of the +lower jaw: nostrils, surrounded by rather a large orbicular +scale, situated nearly mid-way between the eye and the end of the +upper jaw, the tubes pointing forwards: the side of the face has +a very obscure ridge extending from the angle of the mouth to the +under part of the ear: neck covered with small scales: frill +arising from the hinder part of the head, just over the front of +the ears, and attached to the sides of the neck and extending +down to the front part of the chest, supported above by a lunate +cartilage arising from the hinder dorsal part of the ear, and in +the centre by a bone, which extends about half its length: this +bone appears to be an elongation of the side fork of the bone of +the tongue, but it could not be determined with certainty without +injuring the specimen; each frill has four plaits, which converge +on the under part of the chin, and fold it up on the side, and a +fifth where the two are united in the centre of the lower part of +the neck; the front part of its upper edge is elegantly serrated, +but the hinder or lower part is quite whole; the outer surface is +covered with keeled scales, which are largest towards its centre; +the inner surface is quite smooth. The scales of the back are +oval, smoothish; those of the lower part of the body and upper +part of the legs acutely mid-ribbed, and of the sides and joints +of the limbs minute. The tail is twice as long as the body, +roundish, covered with acutely mid-ribbed scales, which towards +the end form six rows, so as to render it obscurely six-sided; +the end is blunt: the toes long, very unequal, varying in joints, +as stated in the generic character (which includes also the claw +joint) compressed, scaly; the claws hooked, horn-coloured.</p> +<p>Length of the tail: 12 inches.<br> +Length of the body: 5 inches.<br> +Length of the head: 5 1/2 inches.<br> +Breadth of the head over the eyes: 1 inch.<br> +Length of the thigh: 1 9/10 inches.<br> +Length of the foot and sole: 2 2/10 inches.<br> +Length of the outer edge of the frill: 10 inches.</p> +<p>This interesting lizard was found by Mr. Allan Cunningham, who +accompanied the expedition as His Majesty's Botanical Collector +for Kew Gardens, on the branch of a tree in Careening Bay, at the +bottom of Port Nelson. (See volume 1.) It was sent by him to Sir +Everard Home, by whom it was deposited in the Museum of the +College of Surgeons,* which precluded my examination of its +internal structure.</p> +<blockquote>(*Footnote. Upon application to the Board of Curators +of the College, I was permitted to have a drawing made of this +curious and unique specimen for the Appendix of my work. The +plate was engraved by Mr. Curtis, from an exceedingly correct +drawing made by my friend, Henry C. Field, Esquire. +P.P.K.)</blockquote> +<p>Respecting this remarkable Lizard, Mr. Cunningham's journal +contains the following remarks. "I secured a lizard of +extraordinary appearance, which had perched itself upon the stem +of a small decayed tree. It had a curious crenated membrane like +a ruff or tippet round its neck, covering its shoulders, and when +expanded, which it was enabled to do by means of transverse +slender cartilages, spreads five inches in the form of an open +umbrella. I regret that my eagerness to secure so interesting an +animal did not admit of sufficient time to allow the lizard to +show by its alarm or irritability how far it depended upon, or +what use it made of, this extraordinary membrane when its life +was threatened. Its head was rather large, and eyes, whilst +living, rather prominent; its tongue, although bifid, was short +and thick, and appeared to be tubular." Cunningham +manuscripts.</p> +<p>Captain King informs me, that the colour of the tongue and +inside of the mouth was yellow.</p> +<p>2. Uaranus varius, Merrem.<br> +Lacerta varia, White, Journal of a Voyage to New Holland, 253, t. +38. Shaw, Nat. Misc. t. 83.<br> +Tupinambis variegatus, Daud. Rept. iij. 76.<br> +Monitor bigarre, Cuv. Reg. Anim. ij. 24.</p> +<p>This species, better known to English Dealers under the name +of The Lace Lizard, is peculiar in having the two series of the +scales, placed on the upper part of the centre of the tail, +raised into a biserrated ridge, and in the outer toe, or rather +thumb, of the hinder-foot being long, and reaching to the +penultimate distal joint of the first or longest toe; the claws +are compressed, sharp.</p> +<p>Genus PHELSUMA. Gray.</p> +<p>Pedes quatuor, digitis fere aequalibus, totis lobatis, +muticis; poris femoralibus distinctis.</p> +<p>Caput et truncus supra tesserulis minutis, infra squamis +minimis, tecti.</p> +<p>This genus, which appears to be confined to the Isle of +France, differs from the rest of the Geckonidae, by the toes +being dilated the whole length, and entirely clawless, and +covered beneath with transverse scales; by the thumb being very +small and indistinct, and by the thighs being furnished with a +series of minute pores.</p> +<p>3. Phelsuma ornata (n.s.).<br> +P. supra plumbea macula, fasciaque rufa ornata, subtus +albida.<br> +Icon. --<br> +Inhabits Isle of France.</p> +<p>Head depressed, truncated in front, covered with minute ovate +scales; the front of the upper part lead-coloured, with a rather +broad red band a little before the eyes, and a white +crescent-shaped spot on each side immediately behind it, and then +some obscure red shades just behind that; the back lead-coloured +and blue, with six longitudinal series of irregular-sized red +spots; belly whitish; tail rather longer than the body. Body one +inch and five-eighths, head half an inch, tail two inches and a +half long.</p> +<p>This animal is very interesting, as being the second species +of a genus recently established, which only consisted of P. +cepedia, the Gecko cepedien of Peron; Cuv. Reg. Anim. 2 46. and 4 +t. 5. f. 5.; which has somewhat the manner of colouring, but is +very distinct from the Gecko ocellatus of Oppel.</p> +<h4>Genus TILIQUA. Gray.</h4> +<p>Pedes quatuor pentadactyli, poris femoralibus nullis.<br> +Caput scutatum; dentes in palato nulli.<br> +Truncus regulariter squamosus.</p> +<p>This genus is distinguished from the true Skinks by the want +of Palatine teeth, the shorter body, and the holes of the ears +being furnished on their front part with a fringe. It differs +from the succeeding Genus, Trachysaurus, in the head being +covered with distinct flat plates, and the whole of the body with +cut hexangular scales; the scales are harder than those of the +true Skink, but not so distinctly bony as those of the +Trachysaurus.</p> +<p>4. Tiliqua tuberculata. Gray.<br> +Lacerta scincoides. Shaw, Nat. Misc.<br> +Lacerta occidua. var. Shaw, Zool. iij. 289.<br> +Scincus tuberculatus, Merrem. Syst. Amph. 73.<br> +Scincoid, or Skink-formed Lizard, White, Journal 242.<br> +Icon. White, l. c. t. 30. Shaw, N. M. t. 179; Zool. iij. t. +81.</p> +<p>This Lizard, which was first described in the excellent +journal of Mr. White, does not appear to be uncommon on the coast +of Australia, as there are several specimens both in the British +Museum and in the collection of the Linnean Society, that were +probably taken in the neighbourhood of the colony; the specimen +before me was caught at Seal Island, in King George the Third's +Sound.</p> +<p>The scales of the whole of the body are broad, hexangular, +with five or six longitudinal, slightly-raised ridges, which +gradually taper, and are lost just before they reach the margin. +The legs are short, thick; the toes of the fore-feet are rather +short, the outer reaching to the middle of the second, the second +and third equal; the fourth reaching to the last joint of the +third, and the little one to the second joint of the fourth +finger. In the hind foot the first and third toe are nearly +equal, and only half as long as the second; the fourth only half +as long as the third; and the fifth about half the length of the +fourth toe.</p> +<h4>Genus TRACHYSAURUS. Gray.</h4> +<p>Pedes quatuor pentadactyli.<br> +Caput sub-scutatum, dentes in palato nulli.<br> +Truncus supra sqoamis crassis elongatis subspinosis, infra +hexagonis membranaceis imbricatis, tectus.<br> +Cauda brevis, depressa.</p> +<p>This genus is at once distinguished from the former, and +indeed from the whole of the Scincidae, by the large hard scales +that cover the back of the body and head; which are formed of +distinct triangular long plates, rough on the outside, and +covered with a membranaceous skin. The body shields of the head +pass gradually into the dorsal plates. The teeth short, thick, +and conical; the palate toothless. The belly and lower surface of +the tail are covered with large six-sided scales, like the other +genera of the family. The head is rather large, triangular. The +legs short, weak; the toes very short, covered only with as many +scales as there are joints; the outer and innermost being about +half as long as the three central toes, which are nearly of equal +length; claws short, conical, channelled beneath. The tail short, +depressed.</p> +<p>5. Trachysaurus rugosus (n.s.)<br> +T. squamis dorsi rugosis, caudae subspinosis; cauda +brevissima.</p> +<p>The body nearly uniform, chestnut brown; the head depressed +with the scales convex, and more nearly of an equal size than +usual: those round the eyes and mouth large; the three anterior +scales on the edge of the lower jaw larger than those which cover +the lower surface of the head, body, and tail, which are uniform, +distinct, large, and membranaceous: the scales of the back are +nearly of equal size with those covering the commencement of the +tail; they are furnished with a prominent midrib, and end in a +point. The legs very short, compressed, covered with nearly +smooth, rather thin, scales. The toes very short; claws rather +thick, and short. The tail about half the length of the body.</p> +<p>Head, three inches long.<br> +Body, seven inches.<br> +Tail, four inches.</p> +<p>Only one specimen of this exceedingly interesting animal was +brought home by Captain King, but the spirits in which it had +been preserved had unfortunately evaporated, so that it was +considerably injured; there is, however, a specimen, apparently +of the same animal, in the collection of the Linnean Society, +which wants the end of its tail.</p> +<p>The above specimen was found at King George the Third's Sound, +and is preserved in the Museum.</p> +<p>6. Agama muricata. Daud.<br> +Lacerta muricata, Shaw, in White's Journal of a Voyage to New +South Wales, 244.<br> +Lacerta Agama, var. ? Shaw, Gen. Zool. iij. 211.<br> +Muricated Lizard, Shaw.<br> +Icon. Shaw, Gen. Zool. t. 65, and White's Journal t. 31. f. +2.</p> +<p>This lizard was first described in Mr. White's Journal, by the +late Dr. Shaw, who paid particular attention to that class of +animals; but he was afterwards inclined to consider it as only a +variety of the common Lacerta agama, or American Galeote, from +which, however, it is quite distinct.</p> +<p>It appears to be a young specimen, since its length is only +seven inches, whilst that described by Dr. Shaw was more than a +foot in length; and some have been caught even of a much larger +size. The Doctor's figure is remarkably good, but rather more +spinous than the specimen under examination, which is probably +another proof of its youth. It was taken and preserved by Mr. +James Hunter, R.N., who accompanied Captain King as surgeon +during the Mermaid's third voyage, and has been presented by him +to the British Museum.</p> +<p>7. Disteira doliata. Lacepede, Ann. de Museum, D'Hist. Nat. 4 +199. 210.<br> +Enhydris doliatus, Merrem, Syst. Amph. 140.<br> +Icon. Lacep. Ann. Mus. 4 t. 57. f. 2.</p> +<p>The series of small hexagonal shields on the abdomen of this +curious animal appears to be formed of two series of scales +united laterally. The length of the specimen brought home by +Captain King exceeds four feet. The figure by M. Lacepede seems +to be too short, but his description agrees admirably with our +specimen, which has been presented to the British Museum.</p> +<p>8. Leptophis* punctulatus (n.s.).<br> +N. squamis laevibus apice uni-indentatis, spinae dorsalis +triangularibus; cauda quadrantali, tenui, squamis aequalibus.</p> +<blockquote>(*Footnote. I have adopted Mr. Bell's manuscript name +for this genus since his paper was read at the Zoological club of +the Linnean Society, before the publication of my genera of +Reptiles in the Annals of Philosophy, where I erroneously +considered it as synonymous with Dr. Leach's genus Macrosoma +instead of my Ahaetulla. J.E.G.)</blockquote> +<p>Scales uniform, pale brown, with a minute black dot impressed +on the apex: body slender, compressed: abdominal scutae rather +broad. The series of scales on the side next to the ventral +plates ovate and blunt; those on the sides narrow, linear, in +five series; the series of scales along the centre of the back +long, triangular. This arrangement of the scales gradually +assumes a uniform appearance on the neck close to the head, where +they are ovate. Head rather long with nine plates, frontal plate +being divided; the snout very blunt, truncated; the upper central +labial scale octangular, with a deep concavity on the labial +margin; the anterior and posterior mental scales long. The tail +one-fourth the length of the body, covered with uniform ovate +quadrangular scales. Length, four feet.</p> +<p>This species appears to have a considerable affinity to the +genus named Macrosoma by Dr. Leach, but not described by him, and +is very much like Coluber decorus of Shaw. It belongs to the +group called by English Zoologists, Whip Snakes.</p> +<p>The specimen above described was taken by Mr. James Hunter, at +Careening Bay, on the north coast, and presented by him to the +British Museum.</p> +<p>9. Leptophis spilotus.<br> +Coluber spilotus, Lacepede, Ann. Mus. iv 209.</p> +<p>A specimen of this snake was brought home by Captain King, +agreeing very well with the short description given by Lacepede, +in his account of some new species of animals from New Holland. +It has not been taken notice of in the modern works on Reptiles. +It may, perhaps, be distinct from it; but upon considering that +upwards of two hundred species of this genus have been already +described, I thought it best not to increase the number without +very good reason. This species forms a second section in the +genus Leptophis, on account of the form of its scales, +particularly those of the throat.</p> +<p>Captain King has informed me that turtles of two or three +kinds are common on the coasts of Australia, particularly within +the tropic; and Alligators were seen, in great abundance, in the +rivers of the northern and north-western coasts, particularly in +those that empty themselves into the bottom of Van Diemen's Gulf; +but as no specimens of either of these animals were preserved, no +further notice can be taken of them.*</p> +<blockquote>(*Footnote. The turtle that frequents the North-east +Coast, in the nei</blockquote> +ghbourhood of Endeavour River, is a variety of the Testudo mydas. +See Banks and Solander manuscripts.) +<hr align="center" width="20%"> +<h3>PISCES.</h3> +<p align="center">BY JOHN EDWARD GRAY, ESQUIRE, M.G.S.</p> +<p>1. Tetraodon argenteus. Lacepede, Ann. Mus. 4 203.<br> +Icon. Ann. Mus. l.c. t. 58. f. 2.</p> +<p>2. Chironectes tuberosus, G. Cuvier, Mem. Mus. 3 432.<br> +Icon. --</p> +<p>There are two other species of this genus in Captain King's +collection, which appear to be new.</p> +<p>3. Balistes australis. Donovan. Naturalist. Repos. 26.<br> +Icon. l.c.</p> +<p>4. Teuthis australis (n.s.).<br> +T. fusca, fasciis sexta transversis nigro-fuscis, cauda +truncata.<br> +Icon. --</p> +<p>Body brown, paler beneath, with six transverse blackish-brown +bands; the first placed across the eye and front angle of the +gill flap; the second obliquely across the pectoral fin, and the +three next, nearly equidistant, straight across the body, the +last band placed between the spine and the base of the rays of +the tail; and with a black longitudinal line between the eyes. +Teeth flat, rather broad, rounded at the end, and denticulated. +The gills flat, unarmed; pectoral fin subacute, triangular; +ventral fin triangular, supported by a very strong first ray; +dorsal and anal fins rounded. Tail truncated, spine on the side +of the tail very distinct, imbedded in a sheath. Pectoral fin, +fifteen rays, first very short: Ventral fin, five rays, one very +strong, short. Dorsal fin, thirty-one; anterior very strong, +first short. Anal fin, twenty-three; two first very strong and +short. Caudal fin, sixteen rays, divided.</p> +<p>Body 3; tail 1 1/4 inches long. Body 2 3/4 high; dorsal fin +3/4; pectoral fin 1 1/4 inches long.</p> +<p>This fish belongs to the Genus Acanthurus of Bloch, adopted by +Shaw (Harpurus, of Forster) but as that genus is apparently +formed from the type of Linnaeus' Genus, Teuthis, I have adopted +the latter name for those Chetodons which have one spine on each +side of the tail, and Acanthurus for those that have two. They +are usually called Lancet-fish, from the curious structure of the +sub-caudal spines.</p> +<p>Captain King has presented to the Museum seven or eight other +sorts of fish, in spirits, and several interesting drawings, +which I have not hitherto been enabled to find in any of the +works on Ichthyology, but so little is known of the genera and +species of this department of Natural History, that I am not +inclined to describe them as new, for fear of increasing the +confusion at present existing.</p> +<p>Among the unnamed fish, there is one exactly similar to a +species found by my late friend Mr. Cranch, in the South +Atlantic.</p> +<p>5. Squalus ocellatus. Gmelin, Syst. Nat. 1494.<br> +Squalus oculatus. Banks and Solander, manuscripts.</p> +<p>6. Squalus glaucus.</p> +<p>Captain King observes, this fish is frequently found in the +neighbourhood of the coast.</p> +<p>7. Squalus----.<br> +Captain King in his manuscripts observes, that a species of shark +was observed commonly near the shores, having a short nose, with +a very capacious mouth; the body was of an ash grey colour, +marked with darker spots, of a round shape, and about two inches +in diameter. This shark was usually ten or eleven feet long.</p> +<hr align="center" width="20%"> +<h3>ANNELIDES.</h3> +<p>1. Leodice gigantea. Savigny Syst. des Annel. page 49. Lam. 5 +322.<br> +Eunice gigantea, Cuv. Reg. Anim. 2 524.<br> +Nereis aphroditois, Pall. Nov. Act. Petrop. 2 229. table 5. +figure 1.7.<br> +Terebella aphroditois, Gmelin, Syst. Nat. 3114.</p> +<p>The specimen brought by Captain King is nearly five feet long, +and was procured at the Isle of France.</p> +<hr align="center" width="20%"> +<h3>ANNULOSA.</h3> +<p align="center">CATALOGUE OF INSECTS, COLLECTED BY CAPTAIN +KING, R.N.</p> +<p align="center">BY WILLIAM SHARP MACLEAY, ESQUIRE, A.M., +F.L.S.</p> +<p>The collection consists of one hundred and ninety-two species, +of which one hundred and thirty belong to the class Mandibulata, +fifty-eight to Haustellata, and four to the Arachnida. Eighty-one +of the species are new, and the extent to which each order of +winged insects has been collected, will be best understood from +the following summary.</p> +<p><b>COLUMN 1: MANDIBULATA.<br> +COLUMN 2: HAUSTELLATA.</b></p> +<p>108 Coleoptera : 40 Lepidoptera.<br> +8 Orthoptera : 2 Homoptera.<br> +5 Neuroptera : 8 Hemiptera.<br> +9 Hymenoptera : 8 Diptera.</p> +<p>Total 188 Species.</p> +<p>This number is, of course, not sufficient to allow any general +remarks to be founded on the collection, and the following +Catalogue is, therefore, merely descriptive.</p> +<h4>CLASS MANDIBULATA.</h4> +<h4>Order COLEOPTERA.</h4> +<p>1. Panagaeus quadrimaculatus. Oliv. Enc. Meth. Hist. Nat.</p> +<p>Obs. There is a wretched figure of this insect given in the +fourth volume of Cuvier's Regne Animal.</p> +<p>2. Paecilus kingii (n.s.) P. atronitidus, antennis tomentosis +obscuris, basi et apice piceis, labri margine antico palpisque +rufo-piceis, thorace linea media longitudinali vix marginem +posticum attingente fossulaque utrinque postica, elytris striatis +vix atro-aeneis tibiis ad apicem tarsisque atro-piceis.</p> +<p>3. Gyrinus rufipes. Fab. Syst. Eleuth. page 276. 13.</p> +<p>Obs. The description of this species, as given by Fabricius is +very vague; but as it applies tolerably well to the insect +collected by Captain King, I have not thought proper to give it a +new name.</p> +<p>4. Silpha lacrymosa. Schreiber, in Linnean Transactions 6 194. +t. 20, f. 5.</p> +<p>5. Creophilus erythrocephalus.<br> +Staphylinus erythrocephalus. Fab. Syst. Eleuth. 2 593. 19.</p> +<p>6. Hister cyaneus. Fab. Syst. Eleuth. 1 page 88. 13.</p> +<p>7. Hister. speciosus. Dej. Cat. page 48.</p> +<p>8. Passalus polyphyllus (n.s.) P. ater depressiusculus, +antennis sex-lamellatis, vertice tuberculis tribus, intermedio +majore compressa linearum superiorem duarum elevatarum +transversarum dissecante, thoracis lateribus rufo-ciliatis, +elytrorum striis lateralibus punctatis.</p> +<p>9. Passalus edentulus (n.s.) P. ater convexiusculus antennis +triphyllis, verticis cornu elevato incurva canaliculato apice +emarginato, tuberculo utrinque acuto, elytrorllm striis +subpunctatis, mandibulis concavis extus dentatis.</p> +<p>Obs. This insect is much less in size than the former, and is +more convex.</p> +<p>10. Lamprima aenea. Horae Entom. 1 page 101. 3.</p> +<p>11. Dasygnathus dejeanii. Horae Entom. 1 page 141. 1.</p> +<p>12. Trox alternans (n.s.) T. capite antice linea angulati +elevata marginato, thorace lineis quatuor mediis elevatis, +exterioribus interruptis tuberculisque utrinque duobus +inaequalibus, elytris tuberculis striatim dispositis, striis +alternatim majoribus.</p> +<p>13. Melolontha festiva. Fab. Syst. Eleuth. 2 171. page 63.</p> +<p>Obs. This most beautiful insect ought to be considered as the +type of a new genus near to Serica.</p> +<p>14. Diphucephala sericea. Kirby, in Linnean Transactions 12 +page 463.</p> +<p>Obs. This genus I had named Agrostiphila in my manuscripts, +but M. Dejean has since published it under the name of +Diphucephala.</p> +<p>15. Diphucephala splendens (n.s.). D. viridis nitidissima +antennis palpisque nigris, capite antice thoracisque lateribus +subpunctatis, media canaliculato, elytris punctis rugosis +seriatim dispositis, corpore subtus hirsutie incano.</p> +<p>An Melolontha colaspidoides, Schon. App. 101. ?</p> +<p>16. Cetonia variegata. Fab. Syst. Eleuth. 2 page 157. 112. C. +luctuosa. Lat. in Cat. Mus. Gall.</p> +<p>Obs. This insect is an inhabitant of the Isle of France, and +was probably collected by Captain King during his stay in that +island.</p> +<p>17. Cetonia australasiae. Donov. Ins. of New Holland, table +1.</p> +<p>18. Cetonia dorsalis. Donov. Ins. of New Holland, table 1.</p> +<p>19. Anoplognathus viridiaeneus. Horae. Ent. 1 page 144. 1.</p> +<p>20. Anoplognathus viriditarsis. Leach. Zool. Miscel. 2 44.</p> +<p>21. Anoplognathus rugosus. Kirby, Linnean Transactions 12 +405.</p> +<p>22. Anoplognathus inustus. Kirby, Linnean Transactions 12 +405.</p> +<p>23. Repsimus aeneus. Melolontha aenea. Fab. Syst. Eleuth. 2 +page 166. 30.</p> +<p>24. Repsimus dytiscoides. Horae. Entom. 1 page 144. 2.</p> +<p>25. Buprestis macularis. Buprestis macularia. Don. Ins. of New +Holland, table 8.</p> +<p>26. Buprestis imperialis. Fab. Syst. Eleuth. 2 page 204. +98.</p> +<p>27. Buprestis suturalis. Don. Ins. of New Holland, table +8.</p> +<p>28. Buprestis variabilis. Don. Ins. of New Holland, table +7.</p> +<p>29. Buprestis kingii (n.s.) B. elytris striatis +nigro-violaceis testaceo-quadrifasciatis haud bidentatis, thorace +punctato nigro-aeneo lateribus testaceis.</p> +<p>Obs. This species comes perhaps too near to some of the darker +varieties of B. variabilis, of the true appearance of which +scarcely any idea can be formed from the figures of Donovan. Our +insect bears a remarkable similarity to a Surinam Buprestis, with +serrated elytra.</p> +<p>30. Buprestis bimaculata. Lin. Syst. Nat. 2 662. 16. Oliv. +Ins. 2 32, table 12, figure 140.</p> +<p>Obs. This is an East Indian Insect; and, as Captain King +collected a few species in the Isle of France, this is probably +one of them.</p> +<p>31. Buprestis fissiceps. Kirby, in Linnean Transactions 12 +page 458, table 23, figure 4.</p> +<p>32. Buprestis lapidosa (n.s.) B. cuprea scabrosa thorace +lineis duabus parallelis longitudinalibus elevatis, elytris +integris subacuminatis substriatis inter tuberculos punctatis, +corpore subtus aeneo.</p> +<p>33. Elater xanthomus (n.s.) E. ater antennis apicem versus +dilatatis serratis, thorace punctato canaliculato, elytris +punctatis striatis pubescentibus basi late auratis +dimidiatis.</p> +<p>Obs. This insect is about four lines long, and entirely black, +except the upper half of the elytra.</p> +<p>34. Elater nigro-terminatus (n.s.) E. luteus cavite +antennisque atris, thorace convexo macula longitudinali +sub-acuminata a margine antico ultra medium attingente, elytris +punctato~striatis apice late nigris, anoque nigro.</p> +<p>Obs. This insect is about the same length with the former, +having its feet and underside entirely yellow, excepting the head +and a black anal spot, something like the letter V.</p> +<p>35. Lycus serraticornis. Fab. Syst. Eleuth. volume 2 1ll. +6.</p> +<p>36. Lycus septemcavus (n.s.) L. ater thorace parabolico +fossulis septem, quatuor anticis fere aequalibus, posticarum +media angusta lanciformi, duabus lateralibus latis antice +emarginatis. Scutello quadrato nigro; elytrls rubris marginatis +lineis quatuor elevatis, interstitiis duplici serie punctorum +transversorum crenatis.</p> +<p>37. Lycus rhipidium (n.s.) L. ater antennis fiabellatis; +thorace angulis porrectis obtusis, fossulis septem, posticarum +trium media longitudinali lanciformi; scutello quadrato nigro; +elytris rubris marginatis lineis novem elevatis, quatuor +alternatim majoribus, interstitiis crenatis.</p> +<p>38. Telephorus pulchellus (n.s.) T. capite thoraceque +nigro-nitidis, hujus margine postico late rufo, elytris +viridi-caeruleis tomentosis punctatis ad suturam marginatis, +corpore pedibusque nigris abdomine subtus rufo.</p> +<p>39. Malachius verticalis, (n.s.) M. rufo-testaceus vertice +antennisque apice nigro-nitidis, thorace testaceo. elytris fascia +humerali mediaque violaceis, postpectore pedibus anoque +nigris.</p> +<p>40. Clerus cruciatus (n.s.) C. testacea tomentosa, capite +thoracis lateribus elytrorumque maculis duabus longitudinalibus, +quarum postica latiori, nigris, elytris striato-punctatis apice +rufescentibus, antennis piceis. pedibus palpisque pallidis.</p> +<p>41. Oedemera livida. Oliv. Ins. 50, table 1 figure 2.<br> +Dryops livida. Fab. Syst. Eleuth. 2 68. 3.</p> +<p>42. Oedemera lineata. Oliv. Ins. 50, table 1 figure 4.<br> +Dryops lineata. Fab. Syst. Eleuth. 2 68. 4.</p> +<p>Obs. I suspect this insect to be merely a variety of the +former species.</p> +<p>43. Oedemera punctum (n.s.) Oe. flavo-nitida antennis +obscuris, fronte puncto atro-nitido impresso, thorace lunula +utrinque atro-nitida impresso, scutello flavo, elytris +nigro-fuscis limbo et sutura testaceis, geniculis tibiis +tarsisque nigris.</p> +<p>44. Lagria tomentosa. Fab. Syst. Eleuth. volume 2 page 70. +9.</p> +<p>45. Lagria rufescens. Dej. Cat. 72.</p> +<p>46. Cistela securigera (n.s.) C. subtus picea supra brunnea +pubescens, antennis apice palporumque articulo ultimo securiformi +nigris, elytris punctis crenatis striatis.</p> +<p>47. Amarygmus tristis.<br> +Cnodulon triste. Fab. Syst. Eleuth. 2 page 13. 4.</p> +<p>Obs. The characters of this genus are given by Fabricius under +the head of Cnodulon, but the true Cnodulon of M. Latreille is a +native of St. Domingo, and a different genus of which the +characters are to be found in the Genera Crustaceorum et +Insectorum. The genus has, however, been of late more accurately +investigated by Dalman, in his Analecta Entomologica, and he has +given it the name of Amarygmus.</p> +<p>48. Amarygmus viridicollis (n.s.) A. convexiusculus capite +thoraceque viridi-caeruleis, elytris cupreis striato-punctatis, +corpore subtus chalybeo pedibusque nigris.</p> +<p>49. Amarygmus velutinus (n.s.) A. atro-nitidus glaberrimus +labri margine rubro, elytris nigro-aeneis punctorum striis +minutissimis.</p> +<p>Obs. This beautiful insect is one of the largest of a genus +which contains a great number of species.</p> +<p>50. Adelium calosoioides. Kirby, in Linnean Transactions 12 +page 420. 57. table 22. figure 2.</p> +<p>51. Adelium caraboides. Kirby, in Linnean Transactions 12 page +466. 17.</p> +<p>52. Phalidura mirabilis.<br> +Curculio mirabilis. Kirby, in Linnean Transactions 12 469. 21. +table 23, figure 9.</p> +<p>Obs. The characters of this most singular genus Phalidura are +chiefly to be found in the broken clavate antennae, short thick +rustrum, connate elytra, and singular anal forceps of the +male.</p> +<p>53. Phalidura kirbii (n.s.) P. nigro-fusca clypeo subfurcato +utrinque canaliculato, thorace confertim noduloso, elytris lineis +elevatis interstitiis crenatis lateribusque +punctato-striatis.</p> +<p>54. Phalidura draco (n.s.) P. atrofusca vertice concavo cruce +impresso, clypeo emarginato, thorace depresso utrinque dilatato +dentato margine antico tuberculato tuberculourmque lineis quatuor +duabus mediis longitudinalibus, elytris punctis elevatis +scabrosis utrinque dentibus acutis seriatim armatis, lateribus +seriatim nudulosis medioque linea tuberculorum sub-duplici +instructo.</p> +<p>Obs. This and the following species are not true Phalidurae; +at least neither appears to have the anal forceps, but as they +come close in affinity to the genus Phalidura, I have not for the +present ventured to give them a new generic name.</p> +<p>55. Phalidura marshami. Kirby, in Linnean Transactions 12 436. +77.</p> +<p>Obs. This insect appears to be a Chrysolopus in M. Dejean's +Catalogue.</p> +<p>56. Hybauchenia nodulosa (n.s.) H. atra capite laevi vel +punctis minutissimis impresso, clypeo canaliculato, thorace +irregulariter noduloso, elytris sutura laeviori punctis que +elevatis striatis striis duabus a sutura alternatim +majoribus.</p> +<p>Obs. I regret that I am not able to give the detailed +characters of this genus at present. I shall merely, therefore, +say that it has the broken clavate antennae of Phalidura, only +they are here longer than the head and thorax taken together. The +body is very convex:, having the thorax as wide as the abdomen, +subquadrate, with very convex sides. Abdomen joined to thorax by +a distinct peduncle. Elytra very convex, with almost +perpendicular sides. Feet long, with rather incrassated +femora.</p> +<p>57. Chrysolopus spectabilis.<br> +Curculio spectabilis. Fab. Syst. Eleuth. 2 537. 184.</p> +<p>58. Chrysolupus echidna (n.s.) C. atrofuscus vertice +trilineato, thorace punctis scabro medio concavo subcarinato +lineis utrinque elevatis, elytris crenatis seriebus spinarum +duabus interiori anum versus abbreviata; spinis anticis depressis +obtusis, posticis acutis. C. echidna. Dej. Cat. 88.</p> +<p>59. Chrysolopus tuberculatus (n.s.) C. fuscus vertice lineato, +thorace punctis scabro medio canaliculato, elytris punctis +seriatim impressis, tuberculorumque seriebus tribus minutis +interiori abbreviata; tuberculo postico suturali maximo.</p> +<p>60. Chrysolopus quadridens.<br> +Curculio 4-dens. Fab. Syst. Eleuth. 2 536. 175.</p> +<p>Obs. The three last species can scarcely be considered to +belong to the same genus with C. spectabilis; but I follow M. +Dejean until the whole family be more accurately +investigated.</p> +<p>61. Gastrodus crenulatus.<br> +Curculio crenulatus. Fab. Syst. Eleuth. 2 518. 64.</p> +<p>62. Gastrodus albolineatus (n.s.) G. niger thorace +scabriusculo rugis transversis duabus lineaque laterali alba, +elytris nigris striato-punctatis sutura striaque media elevatis +laevibus linea laterali alba haud apicem attingente, apice +rufescente albo-punctato.</p> +<p>63. Festus rubripes (n.s.) F. niger capite linea transversa +constricto; vertice lineis quatuor elevatis clypeoque tribus, +antennis piceis clava obscura, thorace punctis elevatis scabro: +elytris punctis impressis striatis, punctis conspicuis +argenteo-squamigeris pedibus rufis geniculis obscuris.</p> +<p>Obs. I am doubtful whether this insect truly belongs to +Megerle's genus Festus. The antennae are much shorter than in +Pachygaster.</p> +<p>64. Cenchroma lanuginosa. Dej. Cat. page 95.</p> +<p>65. Cenchroma obscura (n.s.) C. nigra squamis cinereis asperga +clypeo lineis duabus mediis approximatis elevatis lateribus +albis, thorace canaliculato, elytris punctis impressis striatis +squamisque cinereis subaureis praesertim ad latera aspersis, +corpore subtus ad latera pedibusque albo-squamosis.</p> +<p>66. Curculio cultratus. Fab. Syst. Eleuth. 2 586. 173.<br> +Oliv. Ins. 83. figure 157.</p> +<p>Obs. This is a new genus of the Curculionidae, but as I am not +able in this place to give the characters of it, I prefer to cite +the insect under its Fabrician title.</p> +<p>67. Rhynchaenus cylindrirostris. Fab. Syst. Eleuth. 2 463. +125.<br> +Oliv. Ins. 83, figure 128.</p> +<p>Obs. This insect is altogether as different from the true +Rhynchaeni, as the preceding one is from the true +Curculiones.</p> +<p>68. Rhynchaenus bidens. Fab. Syst. Eleuth. 2 457. 96.<br> +Oliv. Ins. 83. figure 113.</p> +<p>Obs. This is also not a true Rhynchaenus, but is a very +singular insect in appearance, as the acute spine, which rises +from each elytron, appears to be its peculiar defence against +entomological collectors.</p> +<p>69. Eurhinus scabrior. Kirby. in Linnean Transactions 12 page +428. 65.</p> +<p>70. Rhinotia haemoptera. Kirby, in Linnean Transactions 12 +page 426.</p> +<p>71. Orthorhynchus suturalis (n.s.) O. nigro-fuscus punctis +impressus vertice ad oculos albo-bilineato, thorace fossula +postica media alba, elytris ad suturam linea pilis alba, corpore +subtus lateribus albis.</p> +<p>72. Carpophagus banksiae (n.s.) C. nigro-fuscus pilis albis +aspersus capite thoraceque punctatis linea media glabra divisis, +scutello cinereo, elytris rugosis lineis quatuor subelevatis, +corpore subtus pedibusque cinereo-sericeis.</p> +<p>Table B. figure 1.</p> +<p>Obs. This curious insect is said to be found on the Banksia, +and would probably, with Linnaeus, have been a Bruchus. The +following are the characters of this new genus.</p> +<p>CARPOPHAGUS (novum genus.)</p> +<p>Antennae ante oculos insertae filiformes articulo basilari +crassiori, secundo subgloboso brevissimo, ultimo apice conico +acuto,</p> +<p>Labrum semicirculare margine antico integro rotundato +ciliato.</p> +<p>Mandibulae validae corneae arcuatae, intus apicem versus +subsinuatae edentulae basin versus ciliatae vel +submembranaceae.</p> +<p>Maxillae basi corneae processubus duobus membranaceis apicem +versus instructae, lobo externo vel apicali ovali extus ciliato; +interno tenuiori lanciformi apice acuto.</p> +<p>Palpi maxillares breves crassi vix ultra maxillarum apicem +extensi, quadriarticulati articulo stipitali vix conspicuo +secundo obconico tertio subgloboso breviori ultimo ovali +obtuso.</p> +<p>Palpi labiales triarticulati articulo stipitali minimo, +secundo obconico longiore, ultimo crassiori ovato, apice +truncato.</p> +<p>Labium obcordatum basi corneum angustius apice membranaceum +medio emarginatum ciliatum lobo utrinque rotundato.</p> +<p>Mentum semicirculare antice rotundatum medio emarginato sive +edentulo.</p> +<p>Caput porrectum oculis prominulis thorace angustiua clypeo +quadrato vertice inter oculos fossulis duabus antice +convergentibus. Thorax haud marginatus lateribus haud rotundatis +subcylindricus antice angustius, postice sublobatus. Scutellum +tuberculare mucronatum. Abdomen thorace duplo latius. Elytra +convexa humeris eminentibus postice divergentia rotundata. Pedes +pentameri articulis tribus tarsorum primis ciliatis pulvillatis +dilatatis, tertio bilobo, quarto brevissimo et quinto tenuibus +obconicis, hoc biunguiculato. Femora postica valde incrassata +intus unidentata; dente magno. Tibiae posticae compressae apice +dilatatae.</p> +<p>73. Megamerus kingii (n.s.) M. nigro-fuscus labro palpisque +piceis thorace vix punctato postice rugoso, elytris rugis vel +punctis confluentibus substriatis fossula ad humeros profunda +lineaque suturali impressis, corpore subtus pilis sub-sericeo +pedibusque concoloribus.</p> +<p>Table B. figure 2.</p> +<p>Obs. This singular insect has an affinity to Sagra, but +differs from that genus in having setiform antennae, porrect +mandibles, and securiform palpi. Its habit is also totally +different from that of a Sagra, and more like that of some of +those insects which belong to the heterogeneous magazine called +Prionus. It is, undoubtedly, the most singular and novel form in +Captain King's collection, and forms a new genus, of which the +characters are as follow.</p> +<p>MEGAMERUS (novum genus).</p> +<p>Antennae inter oculos insertae filiformes vel potius setaceae +articulo basilari crassiori secundo subgloboso brevissimo apicali +acuto.</p> +<p>Labrum transverso-quadratum antice submembranaceum tomentosum +subemarginatum.</p> +<p>Mandibulae exertae porrectae supra convexiusculae lunulatae +vel falciformes dorso subsinuatae apice vel extus oblique +truncatae acutissimae.</p> +<p>Maxillae basi corneae processubus duobus submembranaceis +apicem versus instructae, lobo externo vel apicali ovali extus +ciliato, interno tenuiori apice subacuto margineque interno vix +unidentato.</p> +<p>Palpi maxillares quadriarticulati, articulo stipitali minimo +inconspicuo, secundo obconico longo duobus ultimis simul sumptis +longitudine fere aequali, tertio obconico crassiori, ultimo +securiformi compressa.</p> +<p>Palpi labiales triarticulati articulo stipitali minimo +inconspicuo, secundo longo obconico setis quibusdam ad apicem +instructo, tertio triangulari compresso vel securiformi.</p> +<p>Labium membranaceum cordatam antice bilobum, lobis elongatis +ciliatis interno latere rectilineari extus ad apicem +rotundatis.</p> +<p>Mentum semicirculare antice rotundatum margine antico +emarginato. Caput porrectum oculis prominentibus thorace haud +angustius. Thorax convexus antice posticeque marginatus lateribus +rotundatis haud marginatis. Scutellum triangulare subacutum. +Abdomen thorace fere duplo latius. Elytra humeris eminentibus +marginatis, lateribus parallelis. Pedes pentameri articulis +tribus tarsorom primis ciliatis pulvillatis dilatatis, penultimo +bilobo, ultimo tenui biunguiculato. Femora postica valde +incrassata intus unidentata. Tibiae posticae compressae apice +dilatatae angulo externo acuto.</p> +<p>Obs. The structure of the tarsus in this genus, so near in +affinity to Carpophagus and Sagra, has led me to investigate more +minutely the tarsus in the tetramerous and trimerous insects of +the French entomologists, and the result has been that the +arrangement given in the third volume of M. Cuvier's Regne +Animal, is discovered to be as erroneous in point of description, +as it is inconsistent with natural affinities.</p> +<p>74. Prionus bidentatus. Don. Ins. of New Holland, table 6.</p> +<p>75. Prionus fasciatus. Don. Ins. of New Holland, table 6.</p> +<p>76. Prionus spinicollis (n.s.) P. piceus antennis filiformibus +basi nigris articulo ultimo vix crassiore, capite fusco +tomentoso, thorace nigro-fusco punctis scabroso, lateribus +spinulosus, in medio postice carina laevi tuberculoque utrinque +magno compressa scabro; scutello piceo nigro-marginato, elytris +testaceis punctulatis substriatis apice unidentatis, pectoris +lateribus rufo-tomentosis.</p> +<p>77. Distichocera maculicollis. Kirby, in Linnean Transactions +12.</p> +<p>78. Distichocera ? rubripennis (n.s.) D. rufo-testacea +subtomentosa, capitis lateribus oreque nigris, vertice +canaliculato, antennis nigris articulis vix biramosis ramis +sinistris brevissimis, thorace atro vitta utrinque rufotestacea, +scutello nigro, elytris rufo-testaceis tomentosis apice obtusis +dehiscentibus, corpore cuneiformi subtus villo argenteo micante, +abdomine utrinque nigro maculato, pedibus nigris.</p> +<p>Obs. This insect may be considered a Molorchus with elytra as +long as its wings; and it, therefore, evidently connects this +genus with Distichocera.</p> +<p>79. Clytus thoracicus. Don. Sys. of New Holland, table 5.</p> +<p>Obs. This insect leaves the typical form of Clytus, so much as +to make me hesitate in placing it in the genus.</p> +<p>80. Callidium bajulus. Fab. Syst. Eleulh. 2 333. 2.</p> +<p>Obs. This insect answers perfectly well to the specific +description as given by Fabricius, but is rather larger than the +European insect, and has eight obsolete white spots disposed in +two parallel bands on the back of the elytra.</p> +<p>81. Callidium erosum (n.s.) C. nigrum capite punctato, ore +testaceo, antennis apice fuscis, thorace tomentoso punctato vel +potius punctis confluentibus eroso disco rufo medio +subtuberculato, elytris acuminatis apice deflexis lineis duabus +elevatis interstitiis punctis confertissimis pulcherrime erosis +sutura margineque rufis, corpore subtus pedibusque +tomentosis.</p> +<p>Var. B. Major, cavite rufo antennis fuscis, elytris rufis +litura inter lineas duas elevatas solum nigricante, pedibus +nigropiceis.</p> +<p>82. Callidium solandri.<br> +Lamia solandri. Oliv. Ins. 67. 133. Plate 16. figure 118.<br> +Fab. Ent. Syst. 2. 292. 97.</p> +<p>Obs. I place Olivier's Synonym in this case first; because the +Fabrician description is so erroneous, that did we not know the +original insect in the Banksian Collection, there would be no +possibility of making it out.</p> +<p>83. Stenochorus semipunctatus. Fab. Syst. Eleuth. 2 306, +8.</p> +<p>Obs. This and the three following species belong to the +Stenochori Callidiiformes of Schonnher.</p> +<p>84. Stenochorus acanthocerus (n.s.) S. fusco-ferrugineus +capite punctato, antennis rubris articulo tertio quarto quinto et +sexto apice spinosis, ore rubro, maxillis elongatis apice +ciliatis membranaceis, palpis securiformibus, thorace obscuro +utrinque unispinoso margine antico tuberculisque dorsalibus +utrinque duobus posticoque semicirculari rubris, scutello rubro; +elytris rubris fasciis tribus nigris undatis, ad basin inter +lineas elevatas subcrenatis apicemque versus punctatis apice +bidentatis; corpore subtus nigro-nitido tomentoso pedibus +rubris.</p> +<p>85. Stenochorus dorsalis (n.s.) S. fulvo-piceus capite +angusto, labro palpisque testaceis, vertice canaliculato, thorace +inaequaliter rugoso eminentia media ovali glabra tribusque aliis +utrinque inconspicuis, elytris bidentatis lineis subelevatis +interstitiisque punctatis macula media suturali testacea antice +subemarginata, antennis subtus villosis articulis apice haud +spinosis, corpore pedibusque piceis femoribus incrassatis.</p> +<p>86. Stenochorus tunicatus (n.s.) S. flavus antennarum +articulis duobus primis nigris quinto apice septimo nonoque +nigris, thorace subcylindrico utrinque unidentato supra +quadrituberculato tuberculis anticis majoribus, elytris apice +flavis unidentatis, parte basali ultra medium subviolaceo-flava +linea obliqua terminata, corpore pedibusque flavo-testaceis.</p> +<p>87. Stenoderus abbreviatus. Dej. Cat. 112. Cerambyx +abbreviatus. Fab. Syst. Eleuth. Leptura ceramboides. Kirby, in +Linnean Transactions volume 12 page 472.</p> +<p>Obs. This is certainly Mr. Kirby's Leptura ceramboides, and +perfectly agrees with the Fabrician description of the Cerambyx +abbreviatus, except that no mention is there made of its mouth +being yellow. Mr. Kirby says of this insect, "a habitu Lepturae +omnino recedit Cerambycibus propior," and certainly were it +allowable to judge entirely from habit, it would seem to connect +those American Saperdae of Fabricius and Olivier which have +bearded antennae, such as (S. plumigera, Oliv., barbicornis, +Fab.) with some other family, perhaps the Oedemeridae. But, +however this may be, the genus Stenoderus differs from the +Cerambycidae, and agrees with the Lepturidae, inasmuch as it has +the antennae inserted between the eyes.</p> +<p>88. Stenoderus concolor (n.s.) S. obscure testceus, antennis +articulo basilari longo apice crassiori, capite thoraceque +cylindrico constricto subrufis, elytris testaceis punctatis +lineis quatuor elevatis.</p> +<p>89. Lamia vermicularis. Schon. in App. Syn. Ins. page 169, +234.<br> +L. vermicularia. Don. Ins. Fab. 5.</p> +<p>90. Lamia rugicollis. Schon. in App. Syn. Ins. page 169, +234.</p> +<p>91. Lamia bidens. Fab. Syst. Eleuth. 2 304. 124.</p> +<p>92. Acanthocinus piliger (n.s.) A. antennis obscuris pilosis +apicem versus cinereo-annulatis, capite cinereo vertice nigro +bilineato, thorace obscuro cinereo inaequali postice +subcanaliculato medio utrinque tuberculato, elytris obscuris +fasciculis minutis nigris flavis cinereisque variegatis, fascia +media cinerea undata cristaque tuberculata humeros versus.</p> +<p>93. Notoclea immaculata. Marsham, in Linnean Transactions 9 +291, table 25. figure 4.</p> +<p>94. Notoclea variolosa. Marsham, in Linnean Transactions 9 +285, table 24. figure 1.</p> +<p>95. Notoclea reticulata. Marsham, in Linnean Transactions 9 +285, table 24. figure 2.</p> +<p>96. Notoclea 4-maculata. Marsham, in Linnean Transactions 9 +287, table 24. figure 6.</p> +<p>Obs. I suspect that this insect is merely a variety of N. +reticulata.</p> +<p>97. Notoclea atomaria. Marsham, in Linnean Transactions 9 286, +table 24. figure 3.</p> +<p>98. Notoclea splendens (n.s.) N. splendidissime cuprea +antennis piceis, scutello nigro, thorace postice elytrorum sutura +maculisque duabus dorsalibus caeruleo-viridibus, elytris novem +striis punctorum subtilissime impressis.</p> +<p>99. Notoclea testacea. Marsham, in Linnean Transactions 9 289. +table 24. figure 10.</p> +<p>100. Notoclea 8-maculata. Marsham, in Linnean Transactions 9 +294. table 25. figure 10.</p> +<p>101. Podontia nigrovaria (n.s.) P. rufa thorace punctis +quatuor utrinque inter latus et fossulas anticas duas divergentes +in lineam transversam dispositis, scutellu piceo, elytris +testaceis nigro-variis striatis striis punctatis, corpore subtus +pedibusque rufis, femoribus posticis valde incrassatis.</p> +<p>Obs. This insect bears a great affinity to Chrysomela +14-punctata, Fab., and other Asiatic insects of this type, which +have been separated from Chrysomela by Dalman in his Ephemerides +Entomologicae, under the name of Podontia.</p> +<p>102. Phyllocharis cyanicornis. Dalman. Ephem. Entom. 21. +Chrysomela cyanicornis. Fab. Syst. Eleuth. 1 page 436. 85.</p> +<p>103. Phyllocharis klugii (n.s.) P. rufo-testacea antennis +scutello pedibusque atro-cyaneis, capite puncto verticali, +thorace macula posticali, elytris punctato-striatis maculis +duabus anticis cruceque apicali atro-cyaneis, abdomine subtus +atro-cyaneo limbo rufo.</p> +<p>Obs. This species comes very near to the Chrysomela cyanipes +of Fabricius, and is probably only a variety of it.</p> +<p>104. Chrysomela 18-guttata. Fab. Syst. Eleuth. 1 439. 101.<br> +Don. Ins. of New Holland, table 2.</p> +<p>105. Chrysomela curtisii. Kirby, in Linnean Transactions +volume 12.</p> +<p>106. Cryptocephalus tricolor. Fab. Syst. Eleuth. 2 51. 55. +Var. beta. Thoracis macula media nigra.</p> +<p>107. Cassida deusta. Fab. Syst. Eleuth. 1 396.44.<br> +Oliv. Ins. 97. table 1 figure 17.</p> +<p>108. Coccinella kingii (n.s.) C. pallide testacea thorace +medio maculis quinque nigris duabus anticis elongatia tribusque +posticis rotundatis, elytris nigro-tripunctatis punctis +humeralibus duobus alioque media marginali.</p> +<h4>Order ORTHOPTERA.</h4> +<p>109. Blatta australis (n.s.) B. elongato-ovata, +ferrugineo-fusca thorace suborbiculato-quadrato, marginibus +laterali et posticali lunulisque utrinque duabus paulisper +impressis, fascia ante marginem posticum nigrum lata alba +transversa, et lineolis duabus longitudinalibus mediis rufis +carinulam formantibus in furcam flavam ad marginem anticum +desinentibus.</p> +<p>Obs. The elytra of the male are much longer than the +abdomen.</p> +<p>110. Mantis quinquedens (n.s.) M. dilute-viridis thorace haud +tripla longiore quam latiore, dorso parte antica, canaliculata +excepta longitrorsum carinato, marginibus lateralibus +denticulatis, elytris thorace duplo longioribus elongato-ovatis +dilute viridibus margine externo maculaque media elevata +flavescentibus; alis hyalinis dilute ferrugineis margine antico +apiceque subfuscis; pedibus anticis coxis denticulatis margine +interna piceo lineis quatuor albis elevatis transversis in dentes +desinentibus.</p> +<p>111. Mantis darchii (n.s.) M. dilute viridis thorace quadruplo +longiore quam latiore, dorso parte antica canaliculata excepta +longitrorsum carinato, marginibus lateralibus postice haud +denticulatis, elytris thorace haud duplo longioribus linearibus +acuminatis antice viridibus margine flavescente postice +subhyalinis subfuscis, nervo costam versus crassiore, aiis apice +acuminatis margine antico dilute rufescente, medio nigro punctis +hyalinis et parte postica fusca obscura vix maculata.</p> +<p>Mantis darchii. Captain P.P. King, manuscripts.</p> +<p>Obs. This insect has been named by Captain King after his +friend Thomas Darch, Esquire, of the Admiralty.</p> +<p>112. Phasma titan (n.s) P. corpore decem unciarum longo, +subcinereo-fusco lineari, thorace spinulis quibusdam raris acutis +elytris longiore, his nigro-viridibus testaceo maculatis +maculaque in marginis antici medio magna alba, alis membranaceis +nigro-fuscis albo-maculatis, antice coriaceis ad basin rubris +nigro-maculatis ad apicem nigro-viridibus testaceo maculatis, +pedibus albo-cinereis coxis anticis trigonis angulo inferiori +dentibus magnis rufis postico minoribus et superiori nullis.</p> +<p>Obs. This immense insect, which is nearly a foot long, is now +for the first time described, although it seems to be not +uncommon in New South Wales. Although much larger, it comes very +near to the P. Gigas of Linnaeus and Stoll, and like it, belongs +to Lichtenstein's division, thus characterized, "Alata elytris +alisque in utroque sexu."</p> +<p>113. Phasma tiartum (n.s.) P. corpore fere quinque unciarum +longo cuneiformi viridi, capite tiara acuminata spinulosa +coronato, thorace antice angusto subdepresso spinuloso postice +dilatato convexiori marginibus lateralibus denticulatis, abdomine +antice cylindrico medio valde dilatato margine dentato et in +processum segmentorum trium linearem desinente segmentis supra +binis laminis dentatis in medio armatis, elytris viridibus +subovatis minutis alarum rudimentis brevioribus; pedibus +viridibus coxis triquetris, anticis angulo interiori tridentato, +superiori denticulato processu ad apicem cristato, inferiori +dilatato rotundato, quatuor posticis dilatatis ovatis margine +denticulatis, femoribus anticis extus dilatatis rotundatis apicem +versus subemarginatis, quatuor posticis triquetris angulis +dentatis exteriori valde dilatato. Table B. figure 3 et 4.</p> +<p>Obs. I have been thus particular in the description of this +rare insect, in order to afford as much information as possible +to the naturalist, who may be inclined to investigate the natural +arrangement of the Phasmina.</p> +<p>114. Locusta salicifolia (n.s.) L. viridis thorace supra plano +lateribus perpendicularibus angulis flavescentibus, elytris alis +brevioribus lanceolato-ovatis, costa flava punctis utrinque ad +medium impressis alis hyalinis acuminatis apice viridibus.</p> +<p>Obs. This insect differs from the L. unicolor of Stoll, a +Javanese insect, inasmuch as its thorax is not dentated, and is +marked at the angles with yellow.</p> +<p>115. Gryllus pictus. Leach, Zool. Misc. 1 table 25.</p> +<p>116. Gryllus regulus (n.s.) G. ferrugineo-fuscus antennis +filiformibus nigris, elytris obscure nebulosis, alis +fusco-hyalinis, thoracis lateribus postice testaceis, corpore +subtus rufo-testaceo, tibiis posticis testaceis spinis dorsalibus +rufis apicibus nigris.</p> +<h4>Order NEUROPTERA.</h4> +<p>117. Libellula sanguinea (n.s.) L. tota sanguinea alis +hyalinis stigmate fulvo nervisque sanguineis, posticis basi +flavescentibus.</p> +<p>118. Libellula oculata. Fab. Ent. Syst. 2 376. 9.</p> +<p>119. Libellula stigmatizans. Fab. Ent. Syst. 2 375. 8.</p> +<p>120. Lestes belladonna (n.s.) L. supra viridis subtus +albescens pedibus nigris, alis quatuor cultratis macula ad +marginem apicalem alba.</p> +<p>121. Agrion kingii (n.s.) A. capite nigro, fronte corporeque +subtus albidis, thorace abdomineque supra fuscis, segmentis +abdominalibus nigro alboque annulatis, alis hyalinis stigmate +fusco.</p> +<p>Order HYMENOPTERA.</p> +<p>122. Ophion luteum. Fab. Syst. Piez. 130. 1.</p> +<p>Obs. This seems, according to Fabricius, to be merely a +variety of the common European insect.</p> +<p>123. Liris angulata. Fab. Syst. Piez. 230. 9.</p> +<p>124. Pompilus morio. Fab. Syst. Piez. 187. 1.</p> +<p>125. Pompilus collaris. Fab. Syst. Piez. 187. 2.</p> +<p>126. Alyson tomentosum (n.s.) A. nigro-pubescens abdominis +segmentis apice argenteis, alis apice nigricantibus.</p> +<p>127. Thynnus variabilis. Leach, manuscripts.<br> +Thynnus dentatus. Fab. Syst. Piez. 231. 1.</p> +<p>128. Eumenes campaniformis. Fab. Syst. Piez. 287. 10.</p> +<p>129. Eumenes apicalis (n.s.) E. flava thoracis spatio inter +alas segmentique abdominalis secundi parte basali nigris, alis +flavis apice fuscis.</p> +<p>130. Centris bombylans. Fab. Syst. Piez. 358. 19.</p> +<h4>CLASS HAUSTELLATA.</h4> +<h4>Order LEPIDOPTERA.</h4> +<p>131. Papilio eurypilus. Linn. Syst. Nat. 2 page 754. 49. +Godart. Enc. Meth. Hist. Nat. 9 45. 61.</p> +<p>Obs. Captain King found an insect on the north coast of New +Holland, which, I think, can only be deemed a variety of P. +eurypilus, a species hitherto recorded as inhabiting Java and +Amboyna. This variety is distinguished from the euripilus of +Godart by several minute differences.</p> +<p>132. Papilio macleayanus. Godart, Enc. Meth. Hist. Nat. 9 47. +65.</p> +<p>133. Papilio sthenelus (n.s.) P. alis nigris flavo-maculatis +posticis dentatis fascia maculaque adjecta flavis, ocello anali +rufo lunulae caeruleae submisso.</p> +<p>Obs. This species is in New Holland what demoleus is in +Africa, and epius in India. It is even difficult to determine +whether the three may not be varieties of one species. If +varieties, however, they are certainly permanent according to the +above localities, and this species may be easily distinguished +from epius, which it most resembles, by the large yellow spot +near the middle of the superior margin of the upper wing. This +spot is divided into two in epius and demoleus. Moreover, the +band of the lower wing in P. sthenelus is only attended with one +small spot.</p> +<p>134. Papilio anactus (n.s.) P. alis nigro-fuscis, anticis +griseo-maculatis, inferis dentatis fascia alba extus dentata +lunula media nigra limbique nigri lunulis quinque caeruleis +ocellis tot rufis submissis.</p> +<p>Obs. This fine species is of the middle size, and seems to +have a relation both with P. epius and P. machaon. The vertex is +orange-coloured, with a black line in the middle. The two upper +wings are slightly dentated, the lower dentations being marked +with white spots. There are three grey spots in the middle of the +superior margin of the wing, of which the largest is the one +nearest to the body; on the outside of these are two parallel +rows of grey spots, the first range consisting of about nine +oblong spots unequal in size, and the outer range of eight +smaller, whitish, and round spots. The white band of the lower +wings, which are not tailed, has a black crescent-like spot in +the middle; and on the outside, two parallel rows of five spots, +the one blue and the other red, The emarginations of these wings +are fringed with white. The underside of this insect is like the +upper, except that the colours are more pronounced, and that +there are two round white spots on the outside of the white band +of the lower wings.</p> +<p>135. Papillo cressida. Godart, Enc. Meth. Hist. Nat. 9. 76. +145.</p> +<p>136. Papilio harmonia. Don. Ins. of New Holland.<br> +P. Harmonoides. Godart, Enc. Meth. Hist. Nat. 9 76. 146.</p> +<p>137. Pontia crokera (n.s.) P. alis integerrimis niveis anticis +apice punctoque nigris, posticis cinereo-submarginatis subtus +flavo-irroratis.<br> +P. crokera. Captain P.P. King, manuscripts.</p> +<p>Obs. This insect is of Godart's fifth size, and comes very +near to his Pieris nina. The wings are of a fine white colour, +particularly the upper. These have their summit black, and a +minute black point, near the middle. The under wings are without +any spots, but are bordered behind by a cinereous thread. The +underside of the upper wings have the costa and summit covered +with spots and minute incontinuous lines of a yellowish colour. +The underside of the lower wings are sulphureous, with very fine +undulating or rather incontinuous lines of a yellowish +colour.</p> +<p>The species has been named by Captain King, after John Wilson +Croker, Esquire, M.P., and first secretary to the Admiralty.</p> +<p>138. Pieris niseia (n.s.) P. alis albis limbo late nigro; +anticis macula media nigra limboque albo-trimaculato; posticis +subtus nigro-venosis limbi maculis luteo-notatis.</p> +<p>Obs. This insect comes very near to the P. teutonia of Godart +and Donovan, particularly in its underside. It is, however, +smaller than that insect. The upper wings are white, with a +posterior broad black subtriangular border, having two or three +white spots at the apex. These wings have a black spot near their +middle, which is also on the underside, but there communicates by +a transverse, short, and rather curved, black band, with a black +superior edging of the wing. In other respects the underside of +the superior wings is like the upper, except perhaps that it is +yellowish at the base. The lower wings have their upper side +white, with a broad black border. Their underside is strongly +veined with black, having the base and the middle of the outer +row of white spots in the posterior margin of the wing +yellowish.</p> +<p>139. Pieris scyllara (n.s.) P. alis integerrimis albis limbo +exteriori utrinque nigro: anticis elongato-trigonis maculis +apicalibus quatuor albis.</p> +<p>Obs. This species comes very near to P. lyncida of Godart. Its +wings are white above. The upper ones have their costa blackish, +and a triangular border at their extremity rather dentated on the +inside. On this black border is a transverse row of four or five +white spots, unequal in size. The lower wings have also a black +border with one white spot, and which is simply crenated on the +inside. The underside of the four wings scarcely differs from the +upper, except that the black borders above mentioned are in +general more pale, and those of the lower wings are broader than +on the upper side.</p> +<p>140. Pieris nysa. Fab. Syst. Ent. 3 195. 606.<br> +P. Eudora. Don. Ins. of New Holland.<br> +P. Nysa. Godart, Enc. Meth. Hist. Nat. 9 152. 118.<br> +P. Eudora. Godart, Enc. Meth. Hist. Nat. 9 152. 117 ?</p> +<p>Obs. On an inspection of the original Pieris nysa of Fab., in +the Banksian cabinet, I find it to be the same with the P. eudora +of Donovan, the only difference being that the under wings are +less cinereous on the upper side, and the upper wings have more +white at the extremity of the yellow spots at the base of their +undersides. These minute differences appear to be sexual. At all +events this is undoubtedly the P. eudora of Donovan, in his +Insects of New Holland. M. Godart, however, most erroneously +quotes another work of Donovan, namely, The Insects of India, and +gives an erroneous description, apparently from confounding some +Indian insect with the insect described by Donovan. Godart has +also erroneously altered the Fabrician description of P. nysa, +and thus added to the multitude of proofs which his laborious +work affords, that the continental entomologists have no means of +undertaking a complete description of species, without visiting +the extensive collections of London.</p> +<p>141. Pieris nigrina. Godart, Enc. Meth. Hist. Nat. 9 149. +108.</p> +<p>142. Pieris aganippe. Godart, Enc. Meth. H. Nat. 9 153. +121.</p> +<p>143. Pibris smilax. Don. Ins. of New Holland.<br> +P. Smilax. Godart, Enc. Meth. Hist. Nat. 9 136. 56.</p> +<p>Obs. As Godart here again cites Donovan's work on the Insects +of India, instead of his Insects of New Holland, I am inclined to +think that he never saw those works.</p> +<p>144. Pieris herla (n.s.) P. alis rotundatis integerrimis +flavis, anticis apice fuscis, posticis margine nigro-sublineatis +subtus testaceis atomis griseis aspersis.</p> +<p>Obs. This insect is larger than P. smilax, but resembles it +extremely in its upper side. The underside, however, is +different, as the extremity of the upper wings and the whole of +the under wings are of a fawn colour. The underside of the lower +wings is also sprinkled with some grey atoms, and marked +obscurely with a fuscous band under two points.</p> +<p>145. Euplaea chrysippus. Godart, Enc. Meth. H.N. 9 187.88.</p> +<p>Obs. Captain King has brought a variety of this insect from +New Holland, which only differs from the European specimen +figured by Hubner, in the row of white points round the edge of +the upper side of the lower wings being evanescent. This species +is one of those which have a great range of distribution, being +found in Naples, Egypt, Syria, India, Java, and New Holland.</p> +<p>146. Euplaea affinis. Godart. Enc. Meth. H. Nat. 9 182. +21.</p> +<p>147. Euplaea hamata (n.s.) E. abdomine supra nigro subtus +fusco alis repandis SUPRA atris; omnibus utrinque ad extimum +punctis ad basin maculis subbifidis virescenti-albis: subtus +anticarum apice posticarumque pagina omni, +olivaceo-fuscescentibus.</p> +<p>Obs. This insect comes so very near to the Euplaea limniace, +of Godart and Cramer, which is common on the Coromandel Coast as +well as in Java and Ceylon, that I can scarcely consider it as +any thing but a variety of that species. It differs, however, in +being constantly of a smaller size, in its abdomen being black, +and in the exterior row of white spots on the under wings not +extending much more than half way round the margin of these +wings. Captain King found this insect in surprising numbers on +various parts of the North-east Coast, particularly at Cape +Cleveland. See volume 1.</p> +<p>148. Danais tulliola. Fab. Ent. Syst. 3 page 41. 123.</p> +<p>Obs. I reserve the generic name of Danais for such of M. +Latreille's genus as have no pouches to the lower wings of their +males; and to the remainder I give the Fabrician generic name of +Euplaea.</p> +<p>149. Danais darchia, (n.s.) P. alis integris fuscis velutinis +caeruleo-micantibus, omnibus supra fascia maculari intra +punctorum seriem marginalem abbreviatam alba; anticis puncto albo +costali. Danais Darchia. Captain P.P. King MSS.</p> +<p>Obs. This is exactly the size of D. eleusine, to which it +appears to come very near. The upper side of the four wings is +brownish-black, having towards the margin an arched band of +violet-coloured white spots, of which the greatest is at the +extremity of the wing. There is also on the superior margin, +about the middle of the upper wing, a white point, and at its +inferior angle a marginal series of a few white points. The upper +side of the lower wings has an abbreviated series of marginal +points on the outside of an arched series of violet-coloured +whitish lunulae. The underside answers well to the description +given by Godart of the underside of his Danais eunice, except +that D. darchia has only one white point in the middle of the +upper wing.</p> +<p>This species bas been named by Captain King after his friend +Thomas Darch, Esquire, of the Admiralty.</p> +<p>150. Danais corinna (n.s.) P. alis integris fuscis velutinis +caeruleo-micantibus, anticis punctis quatuor costalibus, maculis +duabus angularibus et punctorum serie marginali albis, punctis +extimum versus majoribus; alis posticis punctorum serie marginali +et macularum longitudinalium fascia discoidali albis.</p> +<p>Obs. This species comes between the Danais cora of Godart and +his D. coreta. The underside differs in having the marginal +series of white points continued to the very tip of the upper +wings, while they have three other points in the disc. There are +also eight or nine similar white points between the base of the +lower wings and the band of longitudinal spots.</p> +<p>151. Nymphalis lassinassa. Godart. Enc. Meth. 9 395. 155.</p> +<p>152. Vanessa itea. Godart. Enc. Meth. 9 321. 57.</p> +<p>153. Vanessa cardui, var. Godart. Enc. Meth. 9 323. 62.</p> +<p>154. Satyrus banksia. Godart. Enc. Meth. 9 477, 3.</p> +<p>155. Satyrus abeona. Godart. Enc. Meth. 9 497. 72.</p> +<p>156. Satyrus merope. Godart. Enc. Meth. 9 500. 80.</p> +<p>157. Satyrus archemor. Godart. Enc. Meth. 9 500. 81.</p> +<p>158. Argynnis niphe. Godart. Enc. Meth. 9 261. 17.</p> +<p>159. Argynnis tephnia. Godart. Enc. Meth. 9 262. 18.</p> +<p>160. Acrea andromacha. Fab. Ent. Syst. 3 182. 564.<br> +A. entoria. Godart. Enc. Meth. 9.</p> +<p>Obs. The original insect of Fabricius is in the Banksian +cabinet, and affords further cause of regret, that the article +"Papillon," of the Encyclopedie Methodique, should have been +undertaken by a person who had not studied the classical +collections that exist out of Paris. M. Godart describes this +insect as a new species, under the name of Entoria, and makes it +an inhabitant of the West Coast of Africa.</p> +<p>161. Cethosia penthesilea. Godart. Enc. Meth. 9 248. 13.</p> +<p>Obs. This species bas hitherto been described only as a native +of Java, but Captain King found several specimens of a variety of +it on the North Coast of New Holland.</p> +<p>162. Hesperia rafflesia, (n.s.) H. atra alis integerrimis; +anticis fascia maculari abbreviata sulphurea atomisque apicem +versus subviridibus aspersis, posticis rotundatis fascia basali +ovali sulphurea abbreviata, caudata corporis fascia media +sulphurea ano palpisque vivide rufis.</p> +<p>Obs. This beautiful species I have named after Sir Stamford +Raffles, to whose scientific ardour and indefatigable exertions +in Java and Sumatra, every Naturalist must feel himself +indebted.</p> +<p>The undersides of the wings are spotted like the upper, the +only difference being, that round the whole disc of the four +wings there runs a band of ashy-green atoms. The antennae and +feet are black, and the breast whitish. The vivid colour of the +yellow spots on the velvety black of the wings distinguish it at +once from every known species.</p> +<p>163. Urania orontes. Godart. Enc. Meth. 9 710. 4. Var. alis +atro-viridibus, anticis fasciis duabus posticis cupreo-viridibus, +unica lata.</p> +<p>Obs. This beautiful variety of an insect hitherto described as +peculiar to Java and Amboyna was found in immense numbers, +flitting among a grove of Pandanus trees, growing on the banks of +a stream near the extremity of Cape Grafton, upon the North-east +Coast of New Holland. See volume 2.</p> +<p>164. Agarista agricola. Don. Ins. of New Holland.<br> +Agarista picta. Leach, Zool. Misc. volume 1 table 15<br> +-- Godart. Enc. Meth. 9 803. 2.</p> +<p>Obs. As Donovan described and figured this insect many years +before Dr. Leach, his name has the right of priority.</p> +<p>165. Sphinx latreillii (n.s.) S. alis integris; superis +griseo-flavescentibus atomis brunneis aspersis, punctis duobus +nigris basalibus et fasciis quatuor obscuris subapicalibus, +inferis griseo-nigrescentibus apicem versos subflavescentibus. +Dielophila Latreillii. De Cerisy manuscripts.</p> +<p>Obs. The underside of the four wings is very pale, of a +yellowish-gray colour, traversed by a line of blackish points, +which indeed are dispersed very generally over the whole surface. +The disk of the upper wings is rather blacker than the rest. The +head and thorax are of the colour of the wings, their sides and +the conical abdomen being rather lighter. The antennae are +ciliated, whitish above, and brownish beneath.</p> +<p>166. Sphinx godarti (n.s.) S. abdomine griseo linea media +longitudinali guttulisque lateralibus nigrescentibus, alis +integris; superis griseo-nigrescentibus maculis irregularibus +nigris punctoque medio albo, inferis griseo-flavescentibus +fasciis tribus nigris. Dielophila Godarti. De Cerisy +manuscripts.</p> +<p>Obs. All the wings are of a gray colour beneath, the fringe +being alternately white and brown. The thorax is gray, with a +narrow, tawny, transverse mark, a lateral white fascia, two black +curved marks, and on the hinder part a black spot. The body +beneath is of a whitish colour.</p> +<p>167. Macroglossum kingii (n.s.) M. capite thoraceque +viridibus, abdomine nigro flavoque variegato, alis integris +hyalinis subtus ad originem flavis, superis basin versus brunneis +pilis viridescentibus obtectis costa limboque posteriori +brunneis, inferis ad originem limbumque internum +brunneo-viridescentibus.<br> +Macroglossum kingii. De Cerisy manuscripts.</p> +<p>Obs. The antennae of this beautiful species are black, very +slender at the base, and thick towards the extremity. The palpi +are greenish above and white beneath. The breast is white in the +middle, and yellow at the sides. The two first segments of the +abdomen are, on the upper side, gray in the middle, and yellow on +the sides; the third segment is black, with a part of the +anterior edge yellowish towards the side; the fourth segment is +entirely black, having only a white fringe on its anterior edge; +the fifth segment is of an orange yellow, with the middle black; +the sixth segment is entirely yellow, and the whole abdomen is +terminated by a pencil of hairs, which are yellow at their base, +and black at the extremity. The thighs are whitish, with the +tibiae and tarsi yellow.</p> +<p>168. Cossus nebulosus. Don. Insects of New Holland.</p> +<p>169. Euprepia crokeri (n.s.) E. alba antennis fuscis, cavite +nigro bipunctato, thorace linea transversa miniata antice punctis +quatuor et postice duodecim nigris, alis testaceo-fuscis, superis +ad basin albis punctis axillaribus tribus atris maculisque duabus +mediis hyalinis, abdomine supra miniato subtus albo lateribus +duplici serie punctorum nigrorum notatis, pedibus chermesinis. +Euprepia crokeri. Captain P.P. King manuscripts.</p> +<p>Obs. This lovely insect, of which two specimens were taken at +sea, has been named by Captain King after John Wilson Croker, +Esquire, M.P., and First Secretary of the Admiralty.</p> +<p>170. Noctua cyathina (n.s.) N. fusco-grisea subtus pallidior, +alis superis linea transversa fusca sub-undata aliisque +marginalibus obscuris fascia apicem versus fulva undata intus +lineola fusca terminata, ad marginem externum dilatata, limbo +punctorum serie vix marginato, subtus fascia alba, posteris supra +apicem versus nigris fascia media maculisque tribus marginalibus +albis, subtus macula marginali pallidiori margine nigro +punctato.</p> +<h4>Order HOMOPTERA.</h4> +<p>171. Cicada australasiae. Don. Ins. of New Holland.</p> +<p>172. Cicada zonalis (n.s.) C. capite thoraceque flavis, hoc +macularum fascia nigrarum punctisque posticis variegato, abdomine +atro fascia antica rubra analibusque tribus albis, lamellis +basalibus subviridibus, elytris hyalinis costis viridibus +pedibusque testaceis.</p> +<h4>Order HEMIPTERA.</h4> +<p>173. Scutellera banksii. Don. Ins. of New Holland.</p> +<p>Obs. This insect varies so much in colour, that I almost think +it to be the same species with the following S. cyanipes, +Fab.</p> +<p>174. Scutellera cyanipes.<br> +Tetyra cyanipes. Fab. Syst. Rhyng. 133. 23.</p> +<p>175. Scutellera imperialis.<br> +Tetyra imperialis. Fab. Syst. Rhyng. 128. 1.</p> +<p>176. Scutellera corallifera (n.s.) S. supra cyanea linea +verticali nigra thorace antice aurato, scutello ad basin macula +transversa rubra, corpore subtus nigro-cyaneo pectoris lateribus +auratis abdominis lateribus rubris anoque viridi, pedibus rubris +tibiis tarsisque nigro-cyaneis.</p> +<p>177. Scutellera pagana.<br> +Tetyra pagana. Fab. Syst. Rhyng. 134. 29.</p> +<p>178. Pentatoma caelebs.<br> +Cimex caelebs. Fab. Ent. Syst. 4 111. 119.</p> +<p>179. Pentatoma elegans.<br> +Cimex elegans. Don. Ins. of New Holland.</p> +<p>180. Lygaeus regalis (n.s.) L. capite rubro, antennis nigris, +thorace flavo-marginato antice lineis alba nigraque transverse +notato, scutello nigro, elytris flavis macula media parteque +apicali membranacea nigris, corpore subtus fulvo lateribus +albo-lineatis pedibus nigro-brunneis.</p> +<p>Order DIPTERA.</p> +<p>181. Stratiomys hunteri (n.s.) S. nigro-brunnea tomentosa, +post-scutello flavo, abdomine supra nigro maculis utrinque basin +versus duabus viridibus, subtus viridi, pedibus flavis. +Stratiomys hunteri. Captain P.P. King manuscripts.</p> +<p>Obs. This insect has been named by Captain King after Mr. +James Hunter, the surgeon of the Mermaid.</p> +<p>182. Asilus inglorius (n.s.) A. obscuro-luteus abdomine ad +basin pilis flavis hirsuto, alis flavo-hyalinis apice +obscurioribus, pedibus rufis geniculis tarsisque nigris.</p> +<p>183. Tabanus guttatus. Don. Ins. of New Holland.</p> +<p>184. Tabanus cinerescens (n.s.) T. cinereo-ferrugineus subtus +albescens, alis hyalinis basin versus subluteis, abdomine linea +media maculisque quatuor utrinque cinereis.</p> +<p>185. Pangonia roei. (n.s.) P. rostro brevi tota ferruginea +nitida, abdomine subtus testaceo alis fulvo-hyalinis apice +margineque exteriori saturatioribus fasciisque duabus mediis +obscuris marginalibus.<br> +Pangonia roei. Captain P.P. King manuscripts.</p> +<p>Obs. This insect has been named after Lieutenant John S. Roe, +R.N.; one of the assistant-surveyors of the expedition.</p> +<p>186. Anthrax prae-argentatus (n.s.) A. supra niger pilis +flavescentibus tomentosus subtus albidus, ore albo, pedibus +nigris, alis brunneo-hyalinis margine exteriori saturatioribus +apice albis.</p> +<p>187. Anthrax bombyliformis (n.s.) A. nigro-bmnneus +post-scutello ferrugineo, abdomine supra ad basin fulvo apice +albo fasciaque media fusca, subtus albo pedibus atro-brunneis +alis hyalinis basi margineque exteriori fuscis maculisque aliquot +discoidalibus.</p> +<p>188. Musca splendida. Don. Ins. of New Holland.</p> +<p>Class ARACHNIDA.</p> +<p>189. Nephila cunninghamii (n.s.) N. thorace sericeo cinereo, +geniculis incrassatis pedibus nigro-fulvis, tibiarum primo et +postremo pari flavo-annulatis.<br> +Nephila cunninghamii. Captain P.P. King manuscripts.</p> +<p>Named after Mr. Allan Cunningham, the botanist of the +expedition.</p> +<p>Obs. The genus Nephila has been very properly separated from +Epeira by Dr. Leach in the Zoological Miscellany.</p> +<p>190. Uloborus canus (n.s.) U. albescens thorace convexo, pedum +pari secundo longiori, femoribus nigro-punctatis.</p> +<p>191. Linyphia deplanata (n.s.) L. rufo-testacea mandibulis +pedibusque apicem versus nigris, thorace sub-circulari plano, +pedum secundo pari longiori.</p> +<p>Obs. The principal difference of this spider from the genus +Linyphia, as characterized by Latreille, consists in the +circumstance of the two largest of the four middle eyes being the +posterior ones. The palpi of the male are in this species each +provided with a spiral screw resembling the tendril of a +vine.</p> +<p>192. Thomisus morbillosus (n.s.) T. pedibus quatuor primis +longioribus, cinereus thorace macula postica sublunari magna +viridifusca, pedibus sub-geminatim fusco maculatis.</p> +<hr align="center" width="20%"> +<h3>CIRRIPEDES.</h3> +<p>Anatifera sulcata. Gray, Ann. Phil. 1825.<br> +Pentalasmis sulcata, Leach.<br> +Montague, Test. Brit.</p> +<hr align="center" width="20%"> +<h3>RADIATA.</h3> +<h4>CENTRONIA.</h4> +<p>1. Echinus ovum ? Peron and Lesueur. Lam. Hist. 3 48.</p> +<p>This specimen, presented to the Museum, agrees very well with +the short description given by Lamarck of this species.</p> +<p>2. Echinus variolaris. Lam. Hist. 3 47.</p> +<p>This specimen, agreeing very well with the description of one +found by Peron, is very remarkable; and has the larger area +agrulate and ornamented with two rows of white tubercles, nearly +as large as those in the genus Cidaris; the pores in the upper +part are not perforated, and are placed in segments of circles +round small tubercles.</p> +<p>3. Echinometra lucunter.<br> +Echinus lucunter. Gmel. Sys. Nat. 1 3176.<br> +Icon. Ency. Method. t. 134. f. 3, 4, 7.</p> +<h4>ANOMALIA.</h4> +<p>Physalia megalista ? Peron Voyage 1 Lam. Hist. 2 481.<br> +Icon. Peron, Voyage Atlas, t. 29. f. 1.</p> +<p>No specimen of this animal was preserved, but Captain King +observes, that the animal he caught, of which he made a drawing, +differed from Lesueur's figure of P. megalista, in being of +smaller size, and with fewer tints; the colour of the tentacula +was a brighter purple tipped with yellow globules, and the crest +of a greenish hue, but the general colour of the animal was +purple. It measured from three-quarters to one inch in length. +Captain King considered it to be a variety of P. megalista.</p> +<p>Porpita gigantea. Peron, Voyage 2. Lam. Hist. 2 485. Icon. +Peron and Lesueur, Atlas, t. 31. f. 6.</p> +<p>A very beautiful and accurate drawing of this curious animal +was made by Lieutenant Roe. M. Lesueur's figure is also very +correctly drawn.</p> +<h3>ACRITA.</h3> +<h4>ZOOPHYTA.</h4> +<p>1. Tubipora musica. Gmel. Syst. Nat. 1 3753. Lam. Hist. 2 +209.<br> +Icon. Seba. Mus. 3 t. 110. f. 8, 9. Soland. and Ellis. t. 27.</p> +<p>According to Peron, the animals of this coral are furnished +with green-fringed tentacula.</p> +<p>2. Pavonia lactuca, Lam. Hist. 2 239.<br> +Madrepora lactuca, Pallas, Zooph. 289.<br> +Icon. Soland, and Ellis, t. 44.</p> +<p>3. Explanaria mesenterina, Lam. Hist. il. 255.<br> +Madrepora cinerascens, Soland. and Ellis.<br> +Icon. Soland. and Ellis, Number 26. t. 43.</p> +<p>4. Agaricia ampliata, Lam. Hist. 2 243.<br> +Madrepora ampliata, Soland. and Ellis, 157.<br> +Icon. Soland. and Ellis, t. 41. f. 1, 2.</p> +<p>5. Fungia agariciformis, Lam. Hist. 2 236.<br> +Madrepora fungites, Gmel. Syst. Nat. 1 3757.<br> +Icon. Soland. and Ellis, page 149. t. 58. f. 5, 6.</p> +<p>6. Fungia limacina, Lam. Hist. 2 237.<br> +Madrepora pileus, Gmel. Syst. Nat. 1 3758.<br> +Icon. Soland. and Ellis, t. 45. Seba. Mus. 3 t. 111. f. 3, 5.</p> +<p>7. Fungia compressa, Lam. Hist. 2 235.</p> +<p>8. Caryophillia ? fastigiata, Lam. Hist. 2 228.<br> +Madrepora fastigiata, Gmel. Syst. Nat. 1 3777.<br> +Icon. Soland. and Ellis, t. 33. Esp. Suppl. t. 82.</p> +<p>9. Porites subdigitata, Lam. Hist. 2 271. Icon. --</p> +<p>10. Porites clavaria, Lam. Hist. 2 270.<br> +Madrepora porites, Gmel. Syst. Nat. 1 3774.<br> +Icon. Soland. and Ellis, t. 47. f. 1.</p> +<p>11. Astrea stellulata ? Lam. Hist. 2 261.<br> +Madrepora stellulata, Soland. and Ellis, page 165.<br> +Icon. Soland. and Ellis. t. 53. f. 3, 4.</p> +<p>Obs. The stars in this specimen are more numerous, and do not +perforate.</p> +<p>12. Madrepora prolifera. Lam. Hist. 2 281.<br> +Madrepora muricata, Gmel. Syst. 1 3775.<br> +Icon. Soland. and Ellis, t. 57.</p> +<p>13. Madrepora abrotanoides, Lam. Hist. 2 280.<br> +Madrepora muricata, Gmel. Sys. Nat. 1 3775.<br> +Icon. Soland. and Ellis, t. 57.</p> +<p>14. Seriatopora subulata, Lam. Hist. 2 282.<br> +Madrepora seriata, Pallas. Zooph. p 336.<br> +Madrepora lineata, Esper. Suppl. 1 t. 19.<br> +Icon. Soland. and Ellis, t. 31. f. 1. 2.</p> +<p>15. Madrepora laxa (?) Lam. Hist. 2 280.</p> +<p>16. Madrepora plantaginea (?) Lam. Hist. 2 279.<br> +Icon. Esper. Suppl. 1 t. 54.</p> +<p>17. Madrepora corymbosa, Lam. Hist. 2 279.</p> +<p>18. Madrepora pocillifera, Lam. Hist. 2 280.</p> +<p>19. Gorgonia flabellum, Gmel. Syst. Nat. 1 3809.<br> +Flabellum Veneris, Ellis, Corall. page 76.<br> +Icon. Soland. and Ellis, t. 26. f. A.</p> +<p>20. Galaxaria cylindrica, Lamouroux.<br> +Corallina cylindrica, Soland. and Ellis, 114.<br> +Icon. Soland. and Ellis, t. 22. f. 4.</p> +<p>21. Spongia muricina (?) Lam. Hist. 2 369. Number 74.<br> +Icon. Seba. Mus. 3 t. 97. f. 2.</p> +<p>22. Spongia perfoliata, Lam. Hist. 2 370. Number 78.<br> +Icon. --</p> +<p>23. Spongia basta, Pallas. Zooph. 379. Lam. Hist. 2 371. +Number 82.<br> +Icon. -- Esper. 2 t. 25.</p> +<p>24. Spongia alcicornis, Esper. Lam. Hist. 2 380. Number +l26.<br> +Icon. -- Esper. 2 page 248. t. 28.</p> +<p>25. Spongia spiculifera ? Lam. Hist. 2 376. Number 106.<br> +Icon. --</p> +<p>Three or four other species of Spongia were brought home, +which I have not been able to identify with all of Lamarck's +descriptions, or with any figures; but as this author has +described many species from the collection of Peron and Lesueur, +which have not hitherto been figured, I have not considered them +as new, until I have had an opportunity of examining more New +Holland species, and of seeing those described by Lamarck.</p> +<hr align="center" width="20%"> +<h3>MOLLUSCA.</h3> +<p align="center">BY JOHN EDWARD GRAY, ESQUIRE, F.G.S.</p> +<h4>1. CONCHOPHORA.</h4> +<p>1. Solenomya australis.<br> +Solemya Australis, Lam. Hist. 5 489.<br> +Mya marginipectinata, Peron and Lesueur</p> +<p>2. Mactra abbreviata ? Lam. Hist. 5 477. n. 20.<br> +Icon. --</p> +<p>This collection contains a considerable number of specimens of +a shell agreeing with the short specific character given by +Lamarck of the above; but as it has not been figured, I have +referred to it with a mark of doubt. The shells are rather solid, +white, or white variegated with purple, with numerous concentric +wrinkles, which are more distinct nearer the margin; the umbones, +covered with a thin pale periostraca, nearly smooth and polished, +with a small purple spot, the inside white, with the disk and +posterior slope purple; the anterior and posterior slopes +distinct, the lunule and escutcheon deeply and distinctly +sulcated; length fourteen-tenths of an inch; height one inch</p> +<p>3. Mactra ovalina, Lam. Hist. 5 477</p> +<p>This shell is nearly of the same shape as the last, but the +anterior slope is rounded and circumscribed, and the posterior +only marked by a raised line in the periostraca. The shell is +thin, white; with a pale brown and deeply grooved escutcheon</p> +<p>4. Solen truncatus, Wood. Conch.<br> +Solen ceylonensis, Leach, Zool. Misc. 1 22. table 7.<br> +Solen vagina, b. Lam. Hist. 5 451.<br> +Icon. Wood. Conch. t. 26. f. 3. 4. Ency. Method. t. 222. f. 1</p> +<p>5. Cardium tenuicostatum, Lam. Hist. 6 5.<br> +Icon. --</p> +<p>The shell when perfect is white, with rose-coloured umbones; +the rose colour is often extended down the centre of the shell, +forming concentric zones</p> +<p>6. Lucina divaricata, Lam. Hist. 5 541.<br> +Tellina divaricata, Gmel. Sys. Nat. 1 3241.<br> +Icon. Chemn. Conch. 6 134. t. 13. f. 129</p> +<p>7. Venerupis galactites, nob.<br> +Venus galactites, Lam. Hist. 5 599.<br> +Icon. --</p> +<p>The fact of Lamarck having placed in the genus Venus this +shell, which a modern conchologist has considered as a variety of +Venerupis perforans, shows the very great affinity that exists +between those genera</p> +<p>8. Venus flammiculata ? Lam. Hist. 5 605.<br> +Icon. --</p> +<p>This shell is pale yellowish, with irregular, large, distinct, +concentric ridges, and distinctly radiated striae; the umbones +smooth, polished, orange-yellow; the lozenge lanceolate, purple; +the inside golden-yellow; the anterior and posterior dorsal +margins purple</p> +<p>9. Venus tessellata (n.s.)<br> +Testa ovato-oblonga, albida, lineis purpureis angulatis picta; +sulcis concentricis, ad latus posteriorem lamellatis; marginibus +integerrimis.<br> +Icon. --</p> +<p>Shell ovate-oblong, white, polished, with rows of square +purple spots, forming regular lines, with the points directed +toward the back of the shell; covered with many distinct, nearly +equal, concentric, smooth ridges; the front part of the ridges +somewhat elevated, thin, hinder part distinctly lamellar and much +elevated: the lunule subulate, lanceolate; the edge quite entire; +umbones with a purple spot; inside white, except on the anterior +and posterior dorsal edges, which are purple; length +eight-tenths, height six-tenths of an inch</p> +<p>There are two other specimens of this shell in the Museum +which do not agree with any that Lamarck describes; one of these +being fourteen-tenths of an inch long, and one inch high, is +double the size of Captain King's specimen; its habitation is not +marked, but the other specimen is from Ceylon</p> +<p>10. Cytherea kingii (n.s.)<br> +Testa ovato-cordata, tumida, albida, concentrice substriata, +radiata, radiis flavicantibus; lunula lanceolato-cordata; intus +albida</p> +<p>Shell ovate, heart-shaped, white or pale brown, with darker +brown rays, each formed of several narrow lines, the umbones +white, the edge quite entire; the lunule lanceolate heart-shaped, +obscurely defined, the centre rather prominent; inside white, the +hinge margin rather broad</p> +<p>This shell is very like Cytherea loeta, but differs from it in +its markings, as well as its outline, which is more orbicular. +The specimen given to the Museum by Captain King, is one inch +long, and eight-tenths of an inch high; but there is another +specimen in the collection, from the Tankerville cabinet (Number +288) which is twice that size</p> +<p>11. Cytherea gibba.<br> +Cytherea gibbia, Lam. Hist. 5 577.<br> +Icon. Chemn. 7 t. 39. f. 415. 416</p> +<p>12. Petricola rubra ? Cardium rubrum ? Montague</p> +<p>This shell agrees in general form, teeth, and colour, with the +Cardium rubrum of Montagu, but it is larger. It was found +imbedded in the seaweed and spongy-like substance that covers the +Tridacna squamosa</p> +<p>13. Chama limbula, Lam. Hist. 6 95</p> +<p>This shell may, perhaps, be a variety of Chama gryphoides</p> +<p>14. Tridacna gigas, Lam. Hist. 6 pt. 1. 105.<br> +Chama Gigas, Gmel. Syst. Nat. 1 3299.<br> +Icon. Chemn. 7 t. 49. f. 495. Ency. Meth. plate 235. f. 1</p> +<p>15. Pectunculus radians ? Lam. Hist. 6 54</p> +<p>16. Arca scapha, Lam. Hist. 6 42.<br> +Icon. Chemn. 7 201. t. 55. f. 548. Ency. Meth. plate 306. f. 1. +a, b</p> +<p>17. Mytilus erosus, Lam. Hist. 6 pt. 1 120</p> +<p>This shell was described by Lamarck from some New Holland +specimens, that were probably collected by Peron in Baudin's +voyage. It is remarkable for being very thick and solid, and of a +fine dark colour, with only a narrow white band on the anterior +basal edge. The edge is crenated, and the muscular impressions +are very distinct, and raised above the surface, particularly +that on the anterior valve, which is both pellucid and +tubercular</p> +<p>18. Modiola (Tulipa ?) australis, Nob.<br> +Modiola tulipa, var. 1. Lam. Hist. 6 pt. 1 111</p> +<p>This Australian species will most probably prove to be +distinct from the American kind; but the specimen before me does +not afford sufficient materials to separate it, since there is +only one water-worn valve in the collection. It is not so +distinctly rayed as M. tulipa, and the inside is entirely of a +brilliant pearly purple, except near the anterior basal edge</p> +<p>19. Lithophagus caudatus, nob.<br> +Modiola caudigera, Lam. Hist. 6 pt. 1 116.<br> +Icon. Ency. Meth. plate 221. f. 8. a, b</p> +<p>20. Meleagrina albida, var. a. Lam. Hist. 6 pt. 1 152</p> +<p>This appears to be a distinct species from those found in the +Gulf of Mexico and the West Indies, but the difference is not +easy to describe. The specimens before me, which are small, +differ materially from some of the same size among the American +species. The outside is of a dull greenish-purple colour, with a +few distant membranaceous laminae which are only slightly lobed, +and not extended into long processes like those of Avicula +radiata (Zool. Misc. 1. t. 43.) which is the young of the +American kind. The internal pearly coat has a bright yellow +tinge</p> +<p>21. Spondylus radians ? Lam. Hist. 6 pt. 1 192.<br> +Icon. Chemn. Conch. 7 t. 45. f. 469. 470. Ency. Meth. plate 191. +f. 5.</p> +<p>22. Pecten maximus ? Lam. Hist. 6 pt. 1 163.<br> +Ostrea maxima, Gmel. Syst. Nat. 1 3315.<br> +Icon. Chemn. Conch. 7 t. 60. f. 585. Ency. Meth. plate 209. f. 1. +a, b.</p> +<p>The shell before me is probably distinct from the above +species, but is too much worn down to be separated from it; in +its present state it seems to agree tolerably well with the +species to which it has been referred.</p> +<p>23. Pecten asperrimus, Lam. Hist. 6 pt. 1 174.</p> +<p>This beautiful species was originally found by MM. Peron and +Lesueur on the coast of Van Diemen's Land.</p> +<p>24. Lima minuta (n.s.)</p> +<p>Testa ovato-oblonga valde tumida clausa radiatim costata, +costis transverse costato-striatis, auriculis minutis, margine +crenato.</p> +<p>This shell, which was brought up by the deep sea +sounding-lead, being only one-sixth of an inch long, and +one-fourth high, is the smallest species of the genus. It is +white, ovate, oblong, turned and closed at the ends; the surface +is deeply radiately ribbed; the ribs are concentrically +rib-striated, which gives their sides a denticulated appearance; +the edge is crenulated, and the umbones are acute, a small +distance apart, and nearly in the centre of the hinge margin, +which is straight.</p> +<p>25. Pinna dolabrata, Lam. Hist. 6 pt. 1 133.<br> +Pinna bicolor, Chemn. Conch. Cab. t. 90. f. 234.<br> +Icon. Chemn. 8 t. 90. f. 780 ?</p> +<p>The shell, figured by Chemnitz, appears to be a variety of +this species with the anterior end uncurved, which has most +probably been caused by some injury on the anterior basal +edge.</p> +<p>The species is peculiar for its yellow pearly internal coat, +and purplish rays.</p> +<h3>2. COCHLEOPHORA.</h3> +<p>26. Trochus caerulescens. Lam. Hist. 7 18.<br> +Icon. Ency. Meth. plate 444. f. 2. a, b.<br> +Inhab. South-west Coast.</p> +<p>Lamarck describes this shell from a specimen found by +Peron.</p> +<p>27. Trochus noduliferus, Lam. Hist. 7 18.</p> +<p>28. Monodonta conica (n.s.)</p> +<p>Testa conica, acuta, imperforata, spiraliter striflto-costata, +rufa; costis subtuberculatis, albo-nigro-articulatis; apertura +sulcata.<br> +Inhab. -- Mus. Brit.</p> +<p>Shell conical, axis longer than the diameter, the whorl +flattened with six spiral raised substriae, which are +transversely divided into blackish purple beads with white +interspaces, the apex rather acute; the base, rather convex, axis +imperforated; the aperture subquadrangular, inside furrowed; the +base of the columella lip with a prominent tooth and distinct +groove behind it, the upper part rugose; axis eight-twelfths, +diameter six-twelfths of an inch. This shell does not appear to +be uncommon on the coast of Australia.</p> +<p>29. Monodonta uranulata (n.s.)</p> +<p>Testa depresso-conica, umbilicata, purpurea, albomarmorata, +spiraliter papillata; papillis quadri-seriatis, umbilico laevi; +infima facie papillata, apertura sulcata.</p> +<p>Inhab. Mus. Brit.</p> +<p>Shell rather depressed, conical, purple variegated with white, +generally concentrically wrinkled, and ornamented with granulated +spiral ribs, the ribs of the upper part of the last, and of all +the other whorls rather distant, and forming four series; those +of the under part rather closer, and smaller. The axis +unbilicated, smooth, the aperture roundish, the outer lips +furrowed, the columella lip smooth with a groove at its base, +axis four-twelfths, diameter five-twelfths of an inch.</p> +<p>30. Monodonta denticulata (n.s.)<br> +Testa depresso-conica, umbilicata, rufa, nigro punctata, +spiraliter sulcata, subgranulata, umbilico extus crenato.</p> +<p>Inhab. -- Mus. Brit.</p> +<p>Shell depressed, conical, pale reddish, ornamented with rows +of white and brown spots, spirally grooved, ribs slightly +granulated; the sutures distinct, impressed, the lower part of +the last whorl nearly smooth, the umbilicus white, smooth inside, +the edge furnished with a series of granules. The mouth +subquadrangular, outer lip crenulated at the edge, the columella +lip smooth, with a large tooth at the inside, and a little +roughness on the outer side; axis three-tenths, diameter +five-twelfths of an inch.</p> +<p>31. Monodonta constricta, Lam. Hist. 7 36.</p> +<p>32. Monodonta rudis (n.s.)</p> +<p>Testa ovato-conica imperforata ulbido-purpurea rudis crassa, +labro duplicato, extus albido viridi, intus subsulcato, albo.</p> +<p>Inhab. -- Mus. Brit.</p> +<p>Shell ovate, conical, imperfurated, rough, pearly, +concentrically striated, whitish-brown; when worn or where +eroded, purple; the whorls convex, suture distinct, sometimes +occupying an impressed line on the lower whorl; the base rather +convex, the aperture roundish, the axis (imperforate) covered +with a white callus, which leaves a slight concavity over its +end; the outer lip of three colours, the outer part purple or +green and white, the middle pearly, and the inner opaque, white, +and furrowed; the surface of the lower part of the last whorl is +frequently worn away just opposite the mouth, so as to leave a +purple spot.</p> +<p>33. Rissoa clathrata (n.s.)</p> +<p>Testa subglobosa, subimperforata, alba, solida, spiraliter et +concentrice costata; apertura suborbiculari, sutura impressa.</p> +<p>Shell nearly globular, spire conical, upper whorls with three, +lower with seven distinct, large, rather separate, much raised, +spiral ribs, and numerous acute transverse ribs, which form an +acute tubercle where it crosses the spiral ridges, the suture +deeply impressed, very distinct, the aperture nearly orbicular, +the outer lip denticulated on its outer edge, inner lip smooth, +column without any perforation, only a slight linear cavity +behind the inner lip, axis and diameter each one-sixth of an +inch.</p> +<p>This shell is allied to Littorina muricata (Turbo muricata, +Lin.) in its general form and the shape of its umbilicus, but is +white and ribbed like Rissoa cimex (Turbo cimex, Lin.) R. +calathriscus, the Turbo calathriscus of Montague.</p> +<p>34. Solarium biangulatum (n.s.)</p> +<p>Testa orbiculato-conica subdepressa albida spiraliter +sub-striata rufo variegata, anfractibus biangulatis supra planis +infra convexis, umbilico pervio edentulo.</p> +<p>Shell orbicular conical; spire rather depressed; whorls five +spirally striated; upper part flattened, expanded, white with +numerous diverging red cross lines; centre flat, nearly at right +angles with the upper edge, white, with a convex thread-like rib +round its base, which is distantly articulated; base of the +whorls convex, red, punctured and variegated with white; axis +conical, concave, white, smooth at the commencement; aperture +subquadrangular; inside pearly, inner lip with an obscure tooth +at the end of the umbilicus; axis one-fourth, diameter one-third, +of an inch.</p> +<p>35. Turbo setosus, Gmel. Sys. Nat. 3594. Lam. Hist. 7 42.<br> +Icon. Chemn. 5 t. 181. f. 1795, 1796.</p> +<p>36. Turbo torquatus, Gmel. 3597. Lam. Hist. 7 40.<br> +Icon. Chemn. 10 293. figure 24. f. A. B.</p> +<p>37. Phasianella varia, Lam. Ency. Meth. plate 449. f. 1. a. b. +c.<br> +Phasianella bulimoides, Lam. Hist. 7 52.<br> +Buccinum Australe, Gmel. Syst. Nat. 1 3490.<br> +Icon. Chemn. 9 t. 120. f. 1033, 1034.</p> +<p>38. Phasianella pulchra (n.s.)</p> +<p>Testa minuta oblique conica tenuis pellucida linea albida +opaca et fasciis coccineis ornata, anfractibus valde +convexis.</p> +<p>Shell minute, obliquely conical, thin, pellucid, variegated +with spiral opaque white intercepted striae and several +transverse scarlet bands formed of oblique lines; axis, +imperforated, one-sixth, diameter one-eighth, of an inch.</p> +<p>This shell is somewhat like P. pullus, Turbo pullus of +Montague, but the whorls are more convex, and it is rather +differently marked.</p> +<p>39. Scalaria australis, Lam. Hist. 6 pt. 2. 228.<br> +Icon. --</p> +<p>40. Scalaria tenuis (n.s.)</p> +<p>Testa conica umbillcata tenuis pellucida albida unifasciata, +costis albis tenuibus ereberrimis parum elevatis laevibus, +anfractibus contiguis.</p> +<p>Shell conical, thin, pellucid, whitish-brown, with a narrow +central spiral brown band; whorls contiguous, convex, smooth, +with numerous close oblique slightly raised, thin, simple-edged +cross ribs; axis umbilicated; umbilicus narrow; mouth small, +ovate, orbicular; axis three-eighths, diameter one-fourth of an +inch.</p> +<p>This shell is most like Scalaria principalis, nob. Turbo +principalis of Pallas, Chemn. 11 t. 195, f. 1876, 1877. The shell +before me is most probably a young specimen.</p> +<p>41. Delphinula laciniata, Lam. Hist. 6 pt. 2. 230.<br> +Turbo Delphinus, Gmel. Syst. Nat. 1 3599.<br> +Icon. Lister. Conch. t. 608. f. 45.</p> +<p>This shell was found at low water upon the Coral Reefs, in the +entrance of Prince Regent's River, on the North-west Coast.</p> +<p>42. Nerita atrata, Lam. Hist. 6 pt. 2. 191.<br> +Icon. Chemn. Conch. 5 t. 190. f. 1954, 1955.</p> +<p>43. Nerita textilis, Gmelin. Syst. Nat. 3683.<br> +Icon. Chemn. 5 190, f. 1944, 1945.</p> +<p>44. Natica mamilla, Lam. Hist. 6 pt. 2. 197.<br> +Nerita mamilla, Gmel. Syst. Nat. 3672.<br> +Icon. Lister Conch. t. 571. f. 22. Enc. Meth. plate 453. f. 5. a. +b.</p> +<p>45. Natica alba, n.<br> +Icon. Chemn. 5 t. 189. f. 1922. 1923.</p> +<p>46. Natica conica, Lam. Hist. 6 pt. 2. 198.<br> +Icon. Chemn. 5 t. 189. f. 1930. 1931.</p> +<p>47. Littorina australis (n.s.)</p> +<p>Testa ovata, conica fulva rudis spiraliter striata sulcata, +spira acuta, fauce livida.</p> +<p>Shell ovate, conical, fulvous-brown, rough, with numerous +impressed spiral lines; the spire acute, the whorls rather +convex, last slightly angular, the columella lip purplish-brown; +axis solid, with a lunate concavity behind the usual situation of +the umbilicus.</p> +<p>48. Littorina unifasciata (n.s.)</p> +<p>Testa ovato-conica imperforata purpureo-albida laevigata, +anfractibus convexis ultimo subangulato, apertura purpurea +unifasciata.<br> +Icon. --</p> +<p>Shell ovate conical, nearly smooth, with only a few concentric +ridges, and distant, scarcely impressed, very narrow, grooves; +white or purplish-white outside; the whorls rather convex, last +one slightly angular in front; mouth ovate; throat purple or +purplish-black with a distinct broad white spiral band just below +the slight external keel; inner lip purple with a deep concavity +behind it; spire acute half the length of the shell; axis 8/12, +diameter 6/12, of an inch.</p> +<p>This shell has somewhat the shape of Littorina zigzag, the +Trochus zigzag of Montague, but is all of one colour externally +and has a much shorter spire.</p> +<p>49. Cerithium palustre, Brug. Dict. n. 19. Lam. Hist. 7 +66.<br> +Strombus palustris, Gmel. Syst. Nat. 3521. Number 38.<br> +Icon. Lister. Conch. t. 836. f. 62. t. 837. f. 63. Seba, 3 t. 50. +f. 13. 14. 17-19. Martini Conch. 4 t. 156. f. 1472.</p> +<p>50. Cerithium ebeninum, Brug. Dict. n. 26. Lam. Hist. 7 +67.<br> +Icon. Chem. Conch. 10 t. 162. f. 1548, 1549. Ency. Meth. t. 442. +f. 1. a, b.</p> +<p>51. Cerithium morus, Lam. Hist. 7 75. not Brug.<br> +Icon. Lister. t. 1024. f. 90 ?</p> +<p>52. Cerithium lima ? Lam. Hist. 7 77. Brug. Number 33.</p> +<p>A broken shell apparently of this species was brought home, +but when a more perfect specimen is round, it may prove to be +distinct from it.</p> +<p>53. Cerithium perversum ? Lam. Hist. 7 77.</p> +<p>54. Nassa fasciata, n.<br> +Buccinum fasciatum, Lam. Hist. 7 271.</p> +<p>55. Nassa suturalis, n.<br> +Buccinum suturale, Lam. Hist. 7 269 ?</p> +<p>56. Nassa mutabilis, n.<br> +Buccinum mutabile, Gmel. Syst. Nat. 3481. Lam. Hist. 7 269.<br> +Icon. List. t. 975. f. 30. Born. t. 9. f. 13. Chemn. Conch. 11 t. +188. f. 1810, 1811.</p> +<p>57. Nassa livida (n.s.)<br> +Testa ovato-conica superne transverse plicata basi spiraliter +striata purpureo-livida obscure castaneo bifasciata, anfractibus +convexiusculis, sutura linea alba notata, labro extus marginato +intus sulcato.</p> +<p>Icon. --</p> +<p>Shell ovate conical, livid purplish-white, with one or two +central, obscure brown, bands; upper whorls bluntly transversely +plaited, the rest smooth, livid, except at the front part of the +last, just over the groove, where it is spirally striated; the +suture distinct (not channelled) marked by a white line; the +inner lip distinct, raised, the outer thickened on the outer +side, edge sharp, inside grooved; the throat fulvous-brown; axis +one inch, diameter half an inch.</p> +<p>This shell belongs to the group of Nassa, but will perhaps +form a distinct genus intermediate between it and Columbella, +characterized by the narrow form of the mouth. It is most nearly +allied to N. olivacea, n. (Bucc. olivaceum, Lam.) and N. +canaliculata, n. (Bucc. canaliculatum, Lam.)</p> +<p>58. Clavatula striata (n.s.)</p> +<p>Testa ovato-lanceolata turrita albida regulariter spiraliter +sulcato-striata transverse et interrupte costata, anfractuum +margine superiore angulato subnodoso, cauda brevi, fauce +sulcata.</p> +<p>Icon. --</p> +<p>Shell ovate turreted, whitish-brown, with eleven or twelve +longitudinal interrupted ribs forming long tubercles on the +centre of the whorls; the whorls with distant impressed spiral +lines near the suture, with a rather flattened slightly nodulose +band; the mouth rather more than one-third the length of the +shell; outer lip thin inside, grooved; tail short, with a linear +depression on its columella side; axis ten-twelfths, diameter +four-twelfths of an inch.</p> +<p>59. Cassis achatina, var. Lam. Hist. 7 226.</p> +<p>A worn specimen, apparently a variety of this species. It is +entirely smooth, polished, and has the last whorl near the spire +slightly concave, edged with a scarcely raised rather nodulous +line, the outer lip is very thick, grooved on its inner edge, and +the columella is distinctly plaited.</p> +<p>It may perhaps prove to be a new kind; but the species of this +genus are so exceedingly apt to vary, that I do not wish to +increase the number of the already too much extended lists of +Lamarck and others.</p> +<p>60. Cassis flammea. Lam. Hist. 7 220.<br> +Cassidea flammea, Brug. Dict. n. 13.<br> +Buccinum flammeum, Lin. Sys. Nat. 1199. Gmel. 3473.<br> +Icon. Lister. t. 1004. f. 69. et t. 1005. f. 72. Martini Conch. 2 +t. 34. f. 353. 354.</p> +<p>61. Dolium variegatum, Lam. Hist. 7 261.<br> +Icon. --</p> +<p>62. Purpura haemastoma, Lam. Hist. 7 238.<br> +Buccinum haemastoma, Lin. Syst. Nat. 1202. Gmel. 3483.<br> +Icon. Lister. t. 988. f. 48. Martini Conch. 3 t. 101. f. 964, +965.</p> +<p>63. Murex adustus ? Lam. Hist. 7 162.<br> +Icon. Seba. Mus. ili. t. 77. f. 9. 10. Martini Conch. 3 t. 105. +f. 990, 991.</p> +<p>This shell agrees very well with the description of Lamarck, +except that the whole edge of the mouth is of a fine rose-red +colour.</p> +<p>64. Tritonium tranquebaricum, n.<br> +Triton tranquebaricum, Lam. Hist. 7 189.<br> +Icon. Ency. Meth. t. 422. f. 6.</p> +<p>65. Tritonium australe, n.<br> +Triton australe, Lam. Hist. 7 179.<br> +Murex tritonium australe, Chemn. Conch. 11.<br> +Icon. Chemn. 11 t. 194. f. 1867, 1868.</p> +<p>66. Ranella leucostoma, Lam. Hist. 7 150.<br> +Icon. --</p> +<p>This shell is very like Triton scobinator, Lam.; and the +varices, like it, neither form a complete series, nor are they +alternate, so that it does not agree exactly with the characters +of either genus.</p> +<p>67. Fusus verrucosus, n.<br> +Murex verrucosus, Gmel. Syst. Nat. 3557.<br> +Icon. Martini. 4 t. 146. f. 1349, 1356.</p> +<p>68. Conus achatinus, Brug. Dict. n. 66. Lam. Hist. 7 480.<br> +Icon. Chemn. 10 t. 142. f. 1317. Ency. Method. t. 380. f. 6.</p> +<p>69. Conus puncturatus. Brug. Dict. n. 35. Lam. Hist. 1 +460.<br> +Icon. Ency. Meth. t. 322. f. 9.</p> +<p>70. Conus maurus (n.s.)<br> +Testa turbinata coronata albida zonis duabus fuscis, spira +subdepressa mucronata, faute albida zonis duabus purpureis +notata.<br> +Icon. --</p> +<p>Shell very plain, top-shaped, crowned, and whitish, with two +brown bands; spire rather depressed; crowned, blunt; the +epidermis pale greenish-brown; the inside white, with two broad +blue bands, in the front of which is enclosed the canal; axis one +and a half, diameter one inch.</p> +<p>71. Cypraea arabica, Gmel. Syst. Nat. 1 3398. Lam. Hist. 7 +378. Gray, Zool. Journal 1 76.<br> +Icon. Lister. Conch. t. 658. f. 3. Martini. 1 t. 31. f. 328. +Ency. Meth. t. 352 f. 1, 2.</p> +<p>72. Cypraea tigris, Gmel. Syst. Nat. 1 3408. Lam. Hist. 7 382. +Gray, Zool. Journal 1 367.<br> +Icon. Lister. Conch. t. 682. f. 29. Martini 1 t. 24. f. 232-234. +Ency. Meth. t. 353. f. 3.</p> +<p>The shells of this species that are found on the North-east +Coast of Australia are generally of a very pale colour, with only +scattered markings.</p> +<p>73. Cypraea mauritiana, Gmel. Syst. Nat. 3407. Lam. Hist. 7 +377. Gray, Zool. Jour. 1 79.<br> +Icon. Lister. Conch. t. 703. f. 52. Martini 1 t. 30. f. 317-319. +Ency. Meth. t. 350. f. 2. a. b.</p> +<p>74. Cypraea lynx, Gmel. Syst. Nat. 3409. Lam. Hist. 7 388. +Oray, Zool. Journal 1 151.<br> +Cypraea venelli, Gmel. 3402.<br> +Cypraea squalina, Gmel. 3420.<br> +Icon. Lister. Conch. t. 683. f. 30. Martini 1 t. 23. f. 230, 231. +Ency. Meth. t. 355. f. 8. a. b.</p> +<p>75. Cypraea annulus, Gmel. Syst. Nat. 3415. Lam. Hist. 7 402. +Gray, Zool. Journal 1 494.<br> +Icon. Martini Conch. 1 t. 24. f. 239. 240. Ency. Meth. t. 356. f. +7.</p> +<p>76. Cypraea obvelata, Lam. Hist. 7 401. Gray, l.c. 1 493.<br> +Icon. --</p> +<p>77. Cypraea moneta, Gmel. Syst. Nat. 3414. Lam. Hist. 7 401. +Gray, Zool. Journal 1 492.<br> +Icon. Lister. Conch. t. 709. f. 59. Martini 1 t. 31. f. 337. 338. +Ency. Meth. t. 356. f. 3.</p> +<p>78. Cypraea errones. Lin. Syst. Nat. 1178. Gray, l.c. 1 +385.<br> +Cypraea erronea, Gmel. Syst. Nat. 3411.<br> +Cyprrea olivacea, b. Lam. Hist. 7 392.<br> +Icon. Pet. Gaz. t. 97. f. 21.</p> +<p>79. Cypraea caput serpentis. Lin. Syst. Nat. 1175. Gmel. 3406. +Lam. Hist. 7 385. Gray, Zool. Journal 1 495.<br> +Icon. Lister. t. 702. f. 50. et t. 704. f. 52. Martini 1 t. 33. +f. 316. Ency. Meth. 354. f. 4.</p> +<p>80. Cypraea zigzag, Gmel. Syst. Nat. t. 3410. Lam. Hist. 7 +394. Gray, Zool. Journal 1 373. Cypraea undata, Lam. Ann. Mus. n. +41.<br> +Icon. Lister. Conch. t. 661. f. 5. Martini 1 t. 23. f. 224, 225. +Ency. Meth. t. 356. f. 8. a. b.</p> +<p>81. Cypraea helvola, Lin. Syst. Nat. 1130. Gmel. 3417. Lam. +Hist. 7 398.<br> +Icon. Lister. Conch. t. 691. f. 38. Martini Conch. 1 t. 30. f. +326, 327. Ency. Meth. 356. f. 13.</p> +<p>82. Cypraea nucleus, Lin. Syst. Nat. 1 1181. Gmel. 3418. Lam. +Hist. 7 400. Gray, Zool. Journal 1 515.<br> +Icon. Born. t. 8. f. 17. Ency. Meth. t. 355. f. 3.</p> +<p>83. Cypraea oniscus, Lam. Hist. 7 402.<br> +Icon. Lister. Conch. t. 706. f. 55. Martini 1 t. 29. f. 306, +307.</p> +<p>84. Cypraea australis, Lam. Hist. 7 404.<br> +Icon. --</p> +<p>85. Mitra tabanula ? Lam. Hist. 7 323. n. 79.</p> +<p>A single bleached specimen, agreeing with this description +excepting in having five instead of three or four plaits on the +columella, was brought up by the sounding line. The shell is +longitudinally grooved, and very remarkable for being furnished +with numerous, rather distant, smooth, narrow, raised spiral +bands; having the inter-spaces finely spirally striated; the +nucleus of the shell, like that of a voluta, is mammillary.</p> +<p>86. Mitra scutulata, Lam. Hist. 7 314.<br> +Voluta scutulata sue discolor, Chemn. Conch. 10 Gmel. 3452.<br> +Icon. Chemn. l.c. t. 151. f. 1428, 1429.</p> +<p>Lamarck never having seen this shell has described it on the +authority of Chemnitz, whose figure agrees very well with the +shell before me; excepting that the spots round the suture form +nearly a continual band at a little distance from it; the outer +lip is smooth and thin; the inside dull livid brown; the axis is +fourteen-twelfths, the diameter seven-twelfths, of an inch.</p> +<p>87. Marginella minuta (n.s.)<br> +Testa minuta ovata fusiformis alba polita, spira conoidea +obtusiuscula, labro inflexo, columella quadriplicata.<br> +Icon. --</p> +<p>Shell ovate, fusiform, white, polished; spire conical, nearly +as long as the aperture, rather blunt; outer lip somewhat +inflexed; columella with four distinct plaits; axis +three-twelfths, diameter two-twelfths of an inch.</p> +<p>88. Strombus plicatus, Lam. Hist. 7 210.<br> +Strombus dentatus, Gmel. Syst. Nat. 3519.<br> +Icon. Rumph. Mus. t. 37. f. T. Pet. Amb. t. 14. f. 21. Schroet. +Einl. in Conch. 1 t. 2. f. 12. Ency. Meth. t. 408. f. 2. a. +b.</p> +<p>89. Strombus urceus, Lin. Gmel. 3518.<br> +Icon. Lister. Conch. t. 857. f. 13. Martini. Conch. 3 t. 78. f. +803-806.</p> +<p>90. Strombus australis (n.s.)</p> +<p>Testa ovato-oblonga tuberculata spiraliter sulcata albida +fusco-variegata, spira exserta, cauda recurva, labro incrassato +posterius lobo digiti-formi termitato intus (roseo ?) +sulcato.<br> +Icon. -- ?</p> +<p>Shell ovate oblong, spiral, white, spotted and lined with +pale, fulvous-brown; the spire exserted, conical, half as long as +the shell; the whorls longitudinally ribbed with one more +prominent than the rest, the one nearest the suture being acute +and tuberculated; the canal recurved; the outer lip thickened, +ending in a projecting lobe behind, and edged with two or three +blunt tubercles; the throat rose-coloured, furrowed; the inner +lip much thickened.</p> +<p>This shell is one of the five species which have been +confounded with Strombus auris dianae; it is most like S. +zelandiae, n. Chemn. 10 t. 156. f. 1485, 1486, in form and +throat, but has the sculpture of S. adusta, n. Chemn. 10 t. 156. +f. 1487, 1488; this last Lamarck considers as the true S. auris +dianae, whilst Linnaeus unquestionably describes the shell +figured by Martini, 7 t. 84. f. 840, and by Seba, 3 t, 61. f. 1, +2, which I have named S. lamarckii, from having considered it to +be the young of a new species; it is figured by Martini, 7 t. 84. +f. 338, 339, and by Seba, 3 t. 61. f. 5, 6, and is very nearly +allied to S. bituberculatus of Lamarck.</p> +<p>91. Pterocera lambis, Lam. Hist. 7 196.<br> +Strombus lambis, Gmel. Syst. Nat. 3508.<br> +Icon. Lister. Conch. t. 866. f. 21. Martini, Conch. 3 t. 87. f. +858, 859.</p> +<p>This shell is very distinct from Strombus camelus of Chemn. 10 +t. 155. f. 1478.</p> +<p>92. Bulla australis, Gray, Ann. of Philosophy, 9 n.s. 408.<br> +Icon. --</p> +<p>This species is very distinct from Bulla striata, Lister. +Conch. t. 714. f. 72. with which it has been generally +confounded; it is of larger size and perfectly smooth.</p> +<p>93. Bulla hyalina (n.s.)</p> +<p>Testa ovata cylindrica imperforata tenuis hyalina albida +laevis concentrice subrugosa; apice incrassato.<br> +Icon. --</p> +<p>The shell ovate, cylindrical, thin; hyaline white, smooth, +very slightly concentrically rugose; the vertex thickened, not +perforated; the aperture rather longer than the shell; the inner +lip slightly reflexed; axis five-twelfths, diameter +three-twelfths of an inch.</p> +<p>94. Cryptostoma haliotoideum (n.)<br> +Sigaretus haliotoideus, Lam. Hist. 6 2. 208.<br> +Icon. Martini. Conch. 1 t. 16. f. 151-154.</p> +<p>95. Hipponix listeri (n.)<br> +Icon. Lister. t. 544. f. 29.</p> +<p>This shell is very nearly allied to Pileopis, but the animal +is evidently not brachiopodous. It does not form (or at least not +always) a shelly support, but corrodes the surface of the shell +to which it is attached, so as to form a more flat attachment, +and to leave a lunate convex rib instead of the lunate muscular +impression which is observed on those specimens or individuals +which have a shelly base.</p> +<p>96. Siphonaria radiata, Var. Gray, Phil. Mag. 1824. 275.<br> +Siphonaria exigua, Sow. Gen.<br> +Patella japonica, Donovan.<br> +Icon. Donovan, Nat. Repos. t. 79.</p> +<p>97. Bulimus kingii, Gray, Ann. Phil., 9 n.s. 414.<br> +Icon.</p> +<p>The shell ovate, white, with numerous dark-brown irregular +concentric lines, smooth except near the suture where it is +slightly wrinkled; whorls six, rather convex; aperture ovate, +about half as long as the shell; peristome thin (perhaps not +formed); perforation covered with a white even lip, surrounded by +a dark edge; the throat chocolate-brown.</p> +<p>This shell is abundant on the hills of King George the Third's +Sound, in the vicinity of Bald Head.</p> +<p>98. Cyclostoma australe (n.s.)</p> +<p>Testa orbiculata subtrochiformis profunde umbilicata albida +fasciis binis fuscis cincta, spira brevi acuta, anfractibus 5 +convexis concentrice sulcatis.<br> +Icon. --</p> +<p>Shell orbicular, nearly trochi-form, white with two pale-brown +bands on each whorl; the one near the suture narrow, and the +other, placed on the middle of the whorl, broad; whorls five; +convex rounded, with numerous close concentric furrows; axis +umbilicated; umbilicus rather narrow, deep; aperture rather more +than one half the length of the shell; peristome (not formed ?) +simple.</p> +<p>99. Chiton rugosus (n.s.)</p> +<p>Testa octovalvis glabra, valvis tuberculatis, ligamento glabro +laevi.<br> +Icon. --</p> +<p>Shell with eight valves, bald; valves covered with numerous +small tubercles both on the central and lateral area; marginal +ligament smooth, bald.</p> +<p>100. Patella tramoserica, Chemn. 11 179.<br> +Icon. Chemn. 11 t. 197. f. 1912, 1913.</p> +<p>101. Patella radiata, Chemn. 11 100.<br> +Icon. Chemn. 11 t. 197. f. 1916, 1917.</p> +<p>When young, the form of this shell is more conical than in the +figure above quoted, and the outer surface is finely radiately +striated.</p> +<p>102. Patella neglecta (n.)<br> +Patella melanogramma, Sowerby, not Gmel.<br> +Icon. Sow. Gen. f.</p> +<p>When this shell is young, or when the older specimens have +lived in deep water, where their surface has not been broken by +the shingle, or corroded, or covered with coralloid +incrustations, they are regularly radiately ribbed; the ribs are +covered with narrow intermediate grooves, marked with a black +spot on the internal edge of the shell, which is permanent +through all the variations of the outer surface. The inside is +pale purplish-brown, with a yellowish-white muscular impression. +In the older specimens the central disk is often of a pure +opaque-white, and the muscular impressions round the inner edge +of the shell are both pellucid brownish-white; length four +inches, breadth three, height two inches.</p> +<p>This shell is abundant on the rocky shores of King George the +Third's Sound.</p> +<p>In the collection there is a worn specimen of another species +of this genus; but from its bad state, and from the very great +confusion in which the various species of Patella are involved, I +do not venture to describe it as a new shell, although there has +not been any hitherto described to which, in its present state, +it can with any certainty be referred. It is conical, convex, +with twenty-four or twenty-five distinct convex ribs alternately +increasing in size; the grooves between the ribs are broad, with +irregular, concentric, black-brown, raised lines, which appear to +be caused by the wearing away of the other part of the dark outer +coat; the inside is white with a brown disk, and the edge +sinuated and furnished with grooves under the larger ribs.</p> +<p>103. Haliotis roei (n.s.)</p> +<p>Testa subrotunda convexiuscula rugosa et plicata spiraliter +sulcata intus argenteo et rubro margaritacea, spira +prominula.<br> +Icon. --</p> +<p>Shell roundish, rather convex; the outside reddish or +brownish, regular; closely but unequally spiral, ribbed, and +irregularly and roughly concentrically striated and plaited; the +row of perforations is rather prominent, and pierced with six or +seven moderate-sized, slightly tubular, holes; the inside is +iridescent, pearly, rather wavy, and exhibits two distinct +whorls; the columella lip is short and flattened, outer lip +rounded; the spire is convex, rather prominent, placed about +one-third of the breadth of the shell from the outer lip, and +consists of three whorls, which very rapidly enlarge.</p> +<p>This distinct shell, at the desire of Captain King, has been +named after Lieutenant J.S. Roe, the assistant-surveyor of the +expedition.</p> +<p>It is most nearly allied to H. australis, Chemn. 10 t. 166. f. +1604, but differs from it in being rounder and more distinctly +ribbed.</p> +<p>104. Haliotis cunninghamii (n.s.)</p> +<p>Testa ovato-rotundata tenuis depressa rugoso-subplicata +spiraliter striata intus argenteo et rubro margaritacea, spira +prominula, foraminibus parvis.<br> +Icon. --</p> +<p>Shell roundish-ovate, thin, depressed; the outer surface very +slightly concentrically plaited and rough, and finely, regularly, +spirally, striated; the row of perforations slightly elevated, +pierced with eight or nine small slightly-tubular holes; the +spire rather prominent, apex placed about one-fourth of the +breadth of the shell from the sutural angle on the outer lip, +consisting of four whorls which rapidly enlarge; the inside +expanded out, disk nearly flat exhibiting one distinct whorl; the +columella lip narrow, rather long, flattened; the outer lip thin, +truncated; the nick of the imperfect perforation placed about +one-third the length of the outer lip from the end of the +columella lip: length six inches, breadth five.</p> +<p>This shell, at the wish of Captain King, has been named after +Mr. Allan Cunningham, the botanical collector of the voyage.</p> +<p>This species, although nearly allied to Haliotis midae, is +quite distinct from it.</p> +<p>105. Haliotis squamosa (n.s.)</p> +<p>Testa ovato-oblonga convexa rugoso-plicata aurantio-rubens +spiraliter costata, costis tuberculato-muncatis, fauce +margaritacea, spira retusa.<br> +Icon.</p> +<p>Shell ovate-oblong, convex, externally transversely rugose, +plaited and spirally ribbed; the ribs concentrically striated and +furnished with numerous raised scale-like tubercles; the row of +perforations scarcely round contains ten or twelve rather large +holes; the spire slightly raised, very near the edge, consisting +of two or three very rapidly-enlarging whorls; the inside +concave, showing the external ribs, reddish pearly; the columella +lip narrow, depressed, bent; the outer lip thin, strait, or cut +out; the imperfect perforation about one-fifth the length of the +outer lip from the end of the columella lip; length two, breadth +one inch and a quarter.</p> +<p>This species is very distinct on account of its long form, and +curved lower face, as well as its outer surface.</p> +<p>106. Haliotis marmorata, Lin. Sys. Nat. 1256.<br> +Icon. Martini. 1 t. 14. f. 139.</p> +<p>107. Padollus rubicundus, De Montfort, Syst. 2 115.<br> +Padollus scalaris, Leach, Zool. Misc. 1 66.<br> +Haliotis tricostalis, Lam. Hist. 6 2. 218.<br> +Icon. De Montf. 2 t. 114. Leach, l.c.</p> +<p>This specimen, which is the largest I ever saw, measures three +inches and a half by two and a half. It was found upon Rottnest +Island, on the West Coast.</p> +<h3>PTEROPODA.</h3> +<p>108. Janthina fragilis, Lam. Syst. Anim.<br> +Janthina communis, Lam. Hist. 6 2. 206.<br> +Helix janthina, Lin. Sys. Nat. 1 1246.<br> +Icon. Lister. t. 572. f. 24. Chemn, 5 t. 166. f. 1577, 1578.</p> +<p>Several specimens of this shell were taken by the towing-net +in the Indian Ocean, on the passage from the Coast of New Holland +to Mauritius.</p> +<p>109. Janthina exigua, Lam. Hist. 6 2. 206.</p> +<p>Two or three species of this shell were presented to the +Museum by Mr. Hunter, the surgeon to the expedition; it is proved +to be very distinct from J. fragilis, from the description of its +float by Dr. Coates in the transactions of the Society of Natural +Science of Philadelphia. See Annals of Philosophy for 1825, page +385.</p> +<p>110. Hyalaea tridentata, Lam. Hist. 6 1. 286.<br> +Monooulus telemus ? Lin. Syst. Nat. 1 1059.<br> +Anomia tridentata, Forsk. Faun. Arab. 124.<br> +Icon. Forsk. Faun. t. 40. f. b. Chemn. 8 Vign. 13. Cuv. Ann. Mus. +4 t. 59. Anatomy.</p> +<h3>CEPHALOPODA.</h3> +<p>111. Spirula fragilis, Lam. Syst. Anim. 102.<br> +Spirula australis, Lam. Ency. Method. 465. f. 5. a. b.<br> +Spirula peronii, Lam. Hist. 7 601.<br> +Nautilus spirula, Lin. Syst. Nat. 1163.<br> +Nautilus spicula, Gmel. 3371.<br> +Icon. Lister Conch. t. 550. f.2. Martini. 1 Veg. 254. t. 20. f. +184, 185. Ency. Method. ut supra Animal.</p> +<p>Captain King brought home several minute species of Nautilus, +which will be taken notice of at a future period, as they require +particular examination and minute comparison with those found +upon the coasts of Italy and other parts of Europe.</p> +<p>Note. Specimens of the shells in the above catalogue, to which +the following numbers refer, have been presented to the British +Museum, namely, 2, 5, 7, 8, 12, 13, 17, 20, 25, 28, 29, 31, 46, +48, 90, 91, 92, 94, 95, 96, 97, 98, 99, 102 and 103.</p> +<hr align="center" width="20%"> +<h3>A FEW GENERAL REMARKS ON THE VEGETATION OF CERTAIN COASTS OF +TERRA AUSTRALIS, AND MORE ESPECIALLY OF ITS NORTH-WESTERN +SHORES.</h3> +<p align="center">BY MR. ALLAN CUNNINGHAM,<br> +COLLECTOR TO THE ROYAL GARDENS AT KEW.</p> +<p>It having been resolved by the British Government to employ a +colonial vessel from the settlement of Port Jackson in New South +Wales, for the purpose of exploring the whole of the +North-western Coasts of New Holland, and that portion of the +North Coast, not seen by that able navigator, the late Captain +Flinders; a most favourable opportunity was thereby afforded for +a partial examination of the plants of those unknown shores, with +a view of adding to our progressively augmenting knowledge of the +very interesting Flora of this southern continent.</p> +<p>Having materially profited by a twelvemonth's previous +residence in New South Wales, acquainting myself with the +characters (and principal peculiarities of structure) of many +genera of plants absolutely proper to Terra Australis; and +particularly in that period, throughout the progress of a long +and very interesting journey in the interior, to the westward of +Port Jackson, I was most happy and desirous to obey an +instruction I received from the Right Honourable Sir Joseph +Banks, on behalf of the Government, directing me to place myself +under the orders of Captain P.P. King, to whom the execution of +this important service had been intrusted, and to accompany him +to those particular coasts, destined for his investigation, in +order to form and prepare such collections of their vegetation, +for the use of His Majesty's gardens at Kew, as circumstances, +and the particular season of the year proper for visiting those +shores, might afford me. My very limited knowledge of the plants +of that continent, especially of genera, that form a striking +feature in its Flora, was moreover essentially improved during +our stay at King George's Sound on the South-west Coast, previous +to our arrival upon the North-west Coast, at the commencement of +the first voyage of His Majesty's cutter the Mermaid.</p> +<p>Although the reader may inform himself, from Captain King's +relation of the several voyages, of the opportunities that were +afforded me in forming my collections of plants, still it appears +necessary, in this place, to take a general retrospective view of +those parts of the coasts under examination, whereon my +researches were made, adverting, at the same time, to the +prevalent unfavourable seasons for flowering plants, during which +it should seem the survey of the North-west Coast could alone be +effected with safety.</p> +<p>During the progress of the survey of the southern extreme of +the North-west Coast (at which part Captain King commenced his +examinations, in 1818) I landed in Exmouth Gulf, then upon one of +the islands of Dampier's Archipelago, at the Intercourse Islands, +and on Malus Island; but the results of these several excursions +(in some of which ample time was afforded me) did by no means +answer my expectations; herbaceous plants being for the most part +dead, and the few (hard woody) shrubs scarcely bearing +fructification: disadvantages arising, in fact, from the extreme +barrenness of the land, and more particularly from the prevalent +droughts of the season, previous to the change of the monsoon, +which soon afterwards took place, obliging us to quit the +North-west Coast altogether; the remaining periods of the voyage +being employed in the examination of certain parts of the North +Coast.</p> +<p>We again reached the North-west Coast, in the month of +September of the following year, resuming the survey at its +northern extremity, under the most flattering views, and with a +favourable season for the prosecution of that primary object of +the voyage. Between the meridians of 125 and 129 degrees, on the +parallel of 14 degrees, although a large proportion of the +vegetation was for the most part destroyed by the long +established droughts, the number of specimens of plants bearing +fructification, gathered at Port Keats, Vansittart Bay, Port +Warrender, and especially in Cambridge Gulf (where we spent ten +days) was nevertheless considerable and highly interesting, +belonging, however, almost wholly to established genera of which +Grevillea and Acacia were the most striking. The breaking up of +the monsoon at length again obliged Captain King to close his +examination of the coast for that season, to which we, however, +returned in September, 1820, continuing the survey westerly from +the point at which we had left those shores the preceding year. I +had very eligible opportunities of landing upon the shores of +Montagu Sound, Capstan Island, Cape Pond, York Sound, especially +at the head of Hunter's River, at Brunswick Bay, and in Careening +Bay, Port Nelson; at which several parts the collections formed +were very important, but not extensive.</p> +<p>Our encampment on the shore of the latter bay, during the +repair of the vessel, enabled me to examine the country around, +to the distance of four or five miles; but it being at the height +of the dry season, comparatively few flowering plants were +detected, and no herbaceous plants of importance. Our prolonged +stay there also enabled me to form some idea of the Flora of its +shores and neighbouring country, from which I gathered materials +for comparison with the vegetation of Endeavour River, situated +at the eastern extreme of its parallel on the opposite shore of +the continent: the identity of certain species on either coast, +together with the inference drawn therefrom, will appear stated, +towards the close of this general notice. Very few new genera +were the fruits of this third voyage, but many undescribed plants +of old genera were discovered, and with those that are frequent +on the North Coast, and tropical shores of New South Wales, some +were remarked that were originally discovered on the South Coast. +The period again arrived, that rendered it necessary to depart +from the coast, independent of the leaky state of our vessel, +which materially hastened our return to Port Jackson, when the +cutter was considered wholly unfit for a fourth voyage, in which +the complete survey of the north-west, and the examination of the +line of west coasts were contemplated. To effect this important +service, the colonial government purchased a brig, subsequently +named the Bathurst, and I again accompanied Captain King from +Port Jackson, in May, 1821, to those parts of the coasts then +remaining unexplored, at which we arrived at the close of July. +Our very limited stay on those shores, however, was at that +season wherein all vegetation was suffering under the excess of +drought; I had nevertheless the means afforded me of ascertaining +the general identity of the plants of Prince Regent's River, +Hanover Bay, and Port George the Fourth (portions of the coast +explored in the voyage) and other parts in the vicinity, that +were examined the preceding year, at a like season, but under +circumstances much more favourable. Upon our return to the +North-west Coast from the Mauritius, early in 1822, the only part +visited was Cygnet Bay, situate about 2 1/2 degrees to the +south-west of the last-mentioned sound, and it happening at a +season when some rain had fallen, I met with several plants in an +abundant flowering state, of species, however, in part originally +discovered upon other coasts, and described by Mr. Brown, during +the Investigator's voyage.</p> +<p>Of the West Coast (properly so denominated) which was seen +during the Bathurst's voyage, very little can be said in +reference to its vegetable productions, and most probably nothing +can be here advanced, tending to augment our very scanty +knowledge of its Flora, acquired in part long since, through the +medium of the celebrated navigator, Dampier, but more especially +by the botanists accompanying Captain Baudin's voyage. I had no +opportunity of examining any part of the main, during our run +northerly along its extensive shore, but I landed on Rottnest +Island, and repeatedly visited the northern extremity of Dirk +Hartog's Island, off Shark's Bay, where I gathered, under every +discouragement of season, some of the most important portions of +its rich vegetation; in many instances, however, in very +imperfect conditions of fructification. Its general features led +me decidedly to assimilate it to the striking character of the +botany of the South Coast; a characteristic of which it is more +than probable the mainland largely partakes, if we may draw an +inference from its aspect at widely distant parts.</p> +<p>Upon those portions of the North Coast, which were chiefly +surveyed during the Mermaid's first voyage, at a period +immediately subsequent to the season of the rains, I had very +favourable opportunities of increasing my collections upon the +Goulburn Islands, Ports Essington and Raffles, Croker's Island, +Mount-Norris Bay, and on the shores of Van Diemen's Gulf; and +among many described species, discovered formerly in the great +Gulf of Carpentaria, there were several most interesting new +plants. With a view towards an entire completion of the survey of +the several coasts of the continent, that part of New South Wales +within the tropic, north of Cape Bedford, which was not seen by +Captain Cook, entered into the plans of the Mermaid's second +voyage; and it was highly gratifying to my feelings to reflect +that it was reserved for me to complete several specimens +discovered formerly in imperfect states by those eminent +naturalists who accompanied the above great circumnavigator, in +1770, desiderata, that have been wanting ever since this period +of their discovery; no mediums of communication with those +particular parts of the coast having presented themselves.</p> +<p>The aggregate of the several collections that have been formed +during the progress of the four voyages under the general +circumstances above briefly referred to, and which, as +constituting a small Herbarium, will be thus collectively spoken +of in the following remarks, does not exceed one thousand three +hundred species of Phaenogamous plants; of these five hundred and +twenty are already described by authors, the other portion being +in part unpublished species, previously discovered on other +coasts of Terra Australis, and in part absolutely new, referable, +however, mostly to well defined genera. Of Cryptogamous plants, +there are but few species, and of these, or parasitical +Orchideae, none have been detected in these voyages in addition +to those already described: a circumstance, that with respect to +the North-west Coast can reasonably be accounted for, from the +non-existence of primary mountains, or land above very moderate +elevation; by the absence of lofty dense forests (points of +character necessary to that permanency of atmospheric moisture, +which constitutes an essential requisite to the existence of +almost the whole of these tribes): and the consequent general +exposure to the sun of those arid shores.</p> +<p>Limited in number as the new species really are, they will +nevertheless constitute, when added to the discoveries recently +made, through the medium of expeditions to the interior, from the +colony of Port Jackson, very important materials to carry on that +Flora of Australia, so very ably commenced by Mr. Brown. Since +that eminent botanist has already advanced much important matter +in the valuable essay, published at the close of the account of +Captain Flinders' voyage, respecting the relative proportions of +the three grand divisions of plants in Australia, as far as they +had been discovered at that period, and has, from very extensive +materials, given us a comparative view of that portion of its +Flora, and the vegetation of other countries; I shall now simply +submit a few general remarks in this notice, on certain plants of +established natural families, that have been discovered in the +progress of these voyages; closing this paper with some +observations, chiefly illustrative of the geographical diffusion +of several Australian plants known to authors, whose localities +have hitherto been exceedingly limited.</p> +<p>PALMAE. On considering the vast expanse of the continent of +Terra Australis, and that great extent of coast which passes +through climates favourable for the production of certain genera +of this remarkable natural family, it is singular that so few of +the order should have been discovered: a fact in the history of +the Australian vegetation, which (upon contemplating the natural +economy of many other genera of plants) can only be considered as +accounted for, by the great tendency to drought of at least +three-fifths of its shores.</p> +<p>To Corypha, Seaforthia, and Livistona, the only three genera +that have been enumerated in the productions of the Australian +Flora, may now be added Calamus; of which a species (discovered +without fructification, by Sir Joseph Banks, during the +celebrated voyage of Captain Cook) has at length been detected +bearing fruit in the vicinity of Endeavour River. The existence +of this palm, or rattan, on the East Coast, to which it is +confined, seems almost to be limited to an area within the +parallels of 15 and 17 degrees South; should, however, its range +be more extensive, it is southerly one or two degrees, in which +direction a remarkable primary granitic formation of the coast +continues, throughout the whole neighbourhood of which is a +peculiar density of dark moist forest, seemingly dependent on it, +and evidently indispensable to the life of this species of +Calamus; but at the termination of this geological structure, it +most probably ceases to exist. A dioecious palm of low stature, +and in habit similar to Seaforthia, was detected in the shaded +forests investing the River Hastings, in latitude 31 degrees +South, bearing male flowers; but as it may prove to be a dwarf +state of a species of that genus, which has lately been observed, +with all its tropical habits, in a higher latitude, it cannot now +be recognised as a sixth individual of the family whose +fructification has been seen.</p> +<p>Although this order has been observed to be sparingly +scattered along the line of East Coast almost to the thirty-fifth +degree of south latitude, its range on the opposite shores of the +continent is very limited. Upon the North-west Coast, the genus +Livistona alone has been remarked, in about latitude 15 degrees +South; beyond which, throughout a very extensive line of +depressed shore, towards the North-west Cape, no palms were seen. +If the structure of a coast, and its natural disposition to +produce either humidity or drought be consulted (a point, with +respect to this order, as well as certain other tropical tribes, +appearing very important) those portions of the western shores +recently seen, indicate no one character that would justify the +supposition of the existence of the Palmae in the corresponding +extremes of the respective parallels that produce them on the +opposite or East Coast. Another remark relative to the economy of +this family is, that in New Holland it seems confined to the +coasts, Corypha australis, so frequent in particular shaded +situations in the neighbourhood of Port Jackson, having never +been detected in the vicinity of, or upon the mountains, much +less in the distant country to the westward of that extensive +boundary.</p> +<p>ASPHODELEAE. Among the several described plants in the +Herbarium, referred to this family, that were collected upon the +East and South-west Coasts, are specimens in complete +fructification of a remarkable plant of arborescent growth, +having a caudex twenty feet high, and all the habits of Dracaena. +It probably constitutes a new genus distinct from Cordyline of +Commerson, to which, however, it appears closely allied; and has +an extensive range on the East Coast, where, although it has for +the most part been observed within the tropic, it extends +nevertheless as far as latitude 31 degrees South. The only plants +of Asphodeleae remarked on the north-western shores, were an +imperfect Tricoryne, probably Tenella of Mr. Brown, discovered by +that gentleman during the Investigator's voyage on the South +Coast; and the intratropical Asparagus, which is frequent in +latitude fifteen degrees South.</p> +<p>CONIFERAE. To the general observations already made on that +part of Coniferae inhabiting the southern hemisphere, may be +added some important facts, to be gathered from the plants in the +Herbarium of the late voyages, that will afford a very correct +view of the fructification of some doubtful genera, as well as +their limits. Among these the fruit of Podocarpus aspleniifolia +of M. Labillardiere, was observed, together with the female +fructification of another tree (the Huon pine) found also at the +southern extremes and western coast of Van Diemen's Land, which +may prove to be a Dacrydium. Callitris, of which seven species +are known, and principally found in the parallel of Port Jackson, +has also been discovered upon the North-west Coast, in about +latitude 15 degrees South; and another species, remarkable for +its general robust habit, was observed at Rottnest Island, on the +West Coast. A tree, most certainly of this family, and probably +(from habit) a Podocarpus, has been seen upon the East Coast, +within the tropic, but the absence of fructification prevented +its genus being satisfactorily determined. With respect to the +extent of the order in the Islands of New Zealand, some recent +specimens gathered upon the northern, prove one of its pines to +be a Podocarpus; and another, producing a cone, and solitary, +alternate scattered elliptical leaves, shows its relation to +Agathis of Salisbury, or Dammar pine of Amboina.</p> +<p>URTICEAE, whose mass appears also to be confined to +equinoctial countries, may be considered very limited in those +parts of Terra Australis lying within the tropic recently +explored. Ficus is the most considerable genus of the order in +that continent; and although chiefly found on the north and +north-western shores, is also traced on the East Coast, almost to +latitude 36 degrees South, where the trees attain an enormous +size. About sixteen species are preserved in the collections of +the late voyages; all small trees, and one half of which has been +gathered on the North-west Coast.</p> +<p>A species of Morus, bearing small white fruit, was discovered +upon the continent and islands of New South Wales within the +tropic, where also a new genus of the order, with radiated +leaves, has been traced as far as Endeavour River. Of the genus +Urtica, whose numerous species can simply be considered as of +herbaceous duration, although a few of tropical existence assume +a fruticose habit, there is one plant in the vicinity of the +Colony of Port Jackson, remarkable for its gigantic, arborescent +growth; many specimens having been remarked from fifteen to +twenty feet in height, of proportional robust habit, and of +highly stimulating nature.</p> +<p>SANTALACEAE. Nearly three-fourths of the Australian portion of +the order described, were formerly discovered in the parallel of +Port Jackson, upon the shores of the South Coast, and in Van +Diemen's Land. The genus Choretrum, however, heretofore limited +to the southern extremes of the continent, approaches within +about two degrees of the tropic on the West Coast, having been +lately observed on Dirk Hartog's Island. It is rather remarkable +that neither Leptomeria nor Choretrum form a part of the feature +of the vegetation of the arid, depressed portions of the +North-west Coast,* where several of the more harsh, rigid kinds +of plants, of various genera, of the South Coast have been +remarked. Those extensive shores (generally speaking) are not +wanting in the order, for two species of the tropical genus +Santalum, Exocarpus, and a globular-fruited Fusanus, were +collected in and about the parallel of 15 degrees South.</p> +<blockquote>(*Footnote. Towards the North-west +Cape.)</blockquote> +<p>PROTEACEAE. Since the publication of Mr. Brown's valuable +dissertation on this very extensive natural family, in which were +described all the species known at that period, a few important +discoveries have been made in Terra Australis, particularly on +the North-west Coast, where the order seems to be limited to +Grevillea, Hakea, and Persoonia.</p> +<p>In the Herbarium formed during the late voyages, are specimens +of thirteen species of intertropical Grevillea, in various stages +of perfection; of these seven are described from specimens +formerly gathered upon the East Coast, and in the Gulf of +Carpentaria; the remaining six are, however, perfectly new, and +will chiefly augment the last section of that genus, having hard +(in some instances spherical) woody follicles, containing seeds +orbicularly surrounded by a membranous wing, more or less +dilated, and a deciduous style; characters that future botanists +may deem sufficient to justify its separation from Grevillea. The +range of this division, which has been named by Mr. Brown, +Cycloptera, has been hitherto limited to the Gulf of Carpentaria, +and the tropical shores of the East Coast. Of the genus Hakea, +hitherto almost wholly excluded from the tropical parts of +Australia, besides H. arborescens, the only species formerly +observed within that circle, the Herbarium furnishes at least two +plants, that have been recently discovered in about 22 degrees +south latitude, the one being H. oleifolia of King George's +Sound, whilst the other proves an entirely new species, belonging +to the first section of the genus, having long filiform leaves, +and ecalcarated capsules.</p> +<p>Upon the East Coast in latitude 14 degrees two shrubs were +observed having all the habits of Hakea, of the South-west Coast, +but being without fructification, their identity could not be +satisfactorily determined.</p> +<p>Viewing the general distribution of Banksiae, it is a singular +fact in the geographical history of this genus, that its species, +which have been traced through almost every meridian of the South +Coast, upon the islands in Bass Strait, in Van Diemen's Land, and +widely scattered throughout the whole extent of New South Wales +to the North Coast, at which extreme of the continent, B. dentata +has been observed as far west as longitude 130 degrees East, +should be wholly wanting on the line of North-west Coast. Why the +links of this almost perfect chain should have been broken on the +seashores appears unaccountable, since they are, by reason of +their general sterility and exposure, extremely favourable to the +growth of the greater portion of the order. Our limited knowledge +of the West Coast (properly so called) does not afford us +materials to hazard even a partial conclusion, relative to the +existence of this family on its shores, excepting from the total +absence of any one plant of Proteaceae at those parts of Rottnest +and Dirk Hartog's Islands visited during the Bathurst's voyage; +an inference may be drawn of the general paucity of any part of +the order on the shores of the neighbouring main. Although no +species have been found common to shores opposite to each other, +in the higher latitudes, the identity of Grevillea mimosoides, +Persoonia falcata, and Hakea arborescens, has been established +upon the East Coast, and the north-western shores, in the +parallel of about 15 degrees South: but whilst this geographical +diffusion has been remarked in reference to those particular +species, the range of Grevillea gibbosa, a plant discovered at +Endeavour River by Sir Joseph Banks, is now tolerably well +defined by observations made during the late voyages, from which +it appears to be circumscribed to an area not exceeding one +hundred and twenty miles on the East Coast. In the course of the +progress of the land expedition above referred to, the discovery +of another plant of this natural order by Mr. Fraser, occurred in +New South Wales, in a tract of country west of the coastline, +about the parallel of 31 degrees, where I am informed it is a +timber-tree of very large dimensions; and seemingly it +constitutes a new genus, nearly allied to Knightia of Mr. Brown, +a native of New Zealand, as I judged from a casual view of some +specimens.</p> +<p>LABIATAE and VERBENACEAE. The mass of these orders (which are +admitted to be very nearly allied to each other) seems in +Australia to exist on its eastern coast, within and beyond the +tropic, and the species in the collection lately formed, are +referred to ten established genera, of which (as belonging to +Verbenaceae) Vitex and Premna are most remarkable on the +North-western Coast.</p> +<p>Of Labiatae, a new species of Labillardiere's genus +Prostranthera was discovered upon Dirk Hartog's Island, where, as +also at Rottnest Island, Westringia was observed, of species, +however, common to the South Coast.</p> +<p>BORAGINEAE. Some very important amendments, in reference to +the limits of certain genera of the order have been proposed by +Mr. Brown in his Prodromus, where the characters are remodelled +to the exclusion of certain species previously referred to them +by authors. Of Cordia (to which Varronia of Linne, and Cerdana of +Ruiz and Pavon, have at length been united) only two species have +been found in Terra Australis, of which one had been previously +discovered in New Caledonia; and during the late voyages C. +orientalis has been observed on the North-west Coast, where a +third species of Tournefortia in complete fructification was +discovered; and the Herbarium contains some species of that +section of Heliotropium, having a simple straight spicated +inflorescence, which were also found on those equinoctial parts +of the continent.</p> +<p>BIGNONIACEAE. Almost ninety species of this beautiful order +are described by authors, the greater part of which are at +present incorporated among the genuine species of Bignonia of +Linne; a genus that will hereafter be divided, according to the +shape of the calyx, the number of fertile stamina, and more +especially the form of the fruit (which in some species is an +orbicular or elliptical capsule, varying in others to a long +cylindrical figure, with seeds partly cuneated, or thickened at +one extremity, and in others, a truly compressed Siliqua) +together with the relative position of the dissepiment, in +respect to the valves of the fruit.</p> +<p>The greater portion of Bignoniaceae appears to exist in the +equinoctial parts of America; Some, however, are natives of +India, and a few occur on the western coast of Africa, and Island +of Madagascar, but in Terra Australis the order is reduced to +four plants, of which one is a recent discovery, and may be +referred to Spathodea. In that continent, the order exists only +upon the North and East Coasts; it is not, however, entirely +limited to the tropic, for Tecoma of Mr. Brown is also found in +latitude 34 degrees South, on which parallel it has been traced +at least three hundred and fifty miles in the interior to the +westward of the colony of Port Jackson.</p> +<p>ASCLEPIADEAE and APOCINEAE. Nearly the whole of the plants in +the recently formed herbarium, that belong to these natural +families, have been described from specimens formerly discovered +upon the East and North Coasts, several of which appear to give a +partial character to the vegetation of some parts of its +shores.</p> +<p>Hoya (hardly Asclepias carnosa of Linne) Cynanchum, Gymnema, +Gymnanthus, Sarcostemma, and probably Secamone, as belonging to +Asclepiadeae, and all the genera of Mr. Brown (Lyonsia excepted) +referred to the latter order, exist on that extensive coast, +where Balfouria and Alyxia have each an accession of species. Of +Strychnos, which is also frequent, and probably produces its +flowers during the rainy season (as has been remarked of this +genus in other countries) specimens in that stage of its +fructification are still a desideratum; all that is known +respecting the plant being the form and size of its fruit, which +in some species varies considerably.</p> +<p>GOODENOVIAE. The Herbarium contains very few specimens of this +considerable Australian family, the greater mass existing in and +to the southward of the parallel of Port Jackson. The order is +reduced to Goodenia, Scaevola, Velleia, and the tropical Calogyne +on the North-west Coast, and the few species of the two first +genera prove to have been formerly discovered upon the South +Coast during the voyage of Captain Flinders, of which one plant +has alsa a much more extensive range than has been given it +heretofore. It is Scaevola spinescens, which forms a portion of +the harsh, rigid vegetables of Dirk Hartog's Island on the West +Coast, and from that shore probably occupies a part of a very +considerable extent of barren country in the interior, in a +direction towards the East Coast, having been seen in abundance +in the latitude of Port Jackson, so near that colony as the +meridian of 146 degrees 30 minutes East. A new Velleia, +discovered on the North-west Coast in latitude 16 degrees, +augments that genus, belonging to the section with a +pentaphyllous calyx.</p> +<p>RUBIACEAE. The existence of several plants of this extensive +family in the intratropical parts of Terra Australis especially +when aided by some individuals of almost wholly exotic tribes, +that form a prominent feature in the Flora of other equinoctial +countries, tend, in some measure, to diminish the peculiar +character of the vegetation of Terra Australis on those shores, +and thus it is a considerable assimilation to the Flora of a part +of a neighbouring continent that has been traced. About thirty +species are preserved in the collections of these voyages, for +the most part belonging to genera existing in India, but more +abundant in the tropical parts of South America.</p> +<p>Of these, Gardenia, Guettarda, Cephaelis, Coffea, Psychotria, +and Morinda, are found on the East Coast; whilst, in +corresponding parallels on the opposite, or north-western shores, +the order, although not materially reduced, is limited to the two +latter genera, with Rondeletia, Ixora, and Genipa.</p> +<p>It is worthy of remark, that the range of Psychotria, which +has not been observed beyond the tropics in other countries, +extends in New South Wales as far south as the latitude of 35 +degrees; at the western extremity of which it does not appear to +exist.</p> +<p>CAPRIFOLIAE, Juss. The situation of Loranthus and Visvum, in +the system, appears to be undetermined by authors. M. Jussieu +associated them with Rhizophora, in the second section of this +order, from which Mr. Brown has separated this latter genus, and +with two others found in Terra Australis, has constructed a +distinct family, named Rhizophoreae; suggesting, at the same +time, the analogy of Loranthus and Viscum to Santalaceae, and +particularly to Proteaceae. The genus Loranthus, of which nearly +the whole of its described species have been limited to the +tropics, is, however, sparingly scattered on all the Coasts of +Australia, where about eleven species have been recently +observed, parasitical chiefly upon certain trees that constitute +the mass of the forests of that vast continent; namely, +Eucalyptus, Casuarina, Acacia, and Melaleuca.</p> +<p>A solitary and very remarkable deviation from the usual +natural economy of Loranthus, is observed in a species (L. +floribunda) described and figured by M. Labillardiere, which is +found on the shores of King George's Sound, where, in no way +recognising the dependent habits of its congeners, it rises from +the soil to a tree fifteen feet high, being never remarked +relying upon other vegetables for its subsistence. Viscum is +found in the colony of Port Jackson, to which it is not confined, +having been also gathered at Endeavour River, on the same coast, +within the tropic. The southern range of the two genera seems to +be nearly beyond the fortieth degree of latitude; but in the +northern hemisphere, Loranthus exists in Siberia.</p> +<p>UMBELLIFERAE. The equinoctial portion of the Herbarium +contains only three or four plants of this extensive European +order, belonging to Hydrocotyle, Azorella of Cavanilles and +Labillardiere (from which Trachymene of Rudge is probably not +distinct) and a suffruticose plant referred to Cussonia, that +have been collected upon the East Coast. Upon the north-western +shores, Azorella was alone remarked, of which a species is very +general upon its main and islands, and chiefly remarkable for its +gigantic herbaceous growth.</p> +<p>MYRTACEAE. With respect to that portion of Myrtaceae, lately +discovered upon the north-western shores of Australia, and which +are alone worthy of remark here, it is to be observed, that, +considering the many points of that coast visited during the +progress of the relative voyages, the number of species observed +are comparatively few, for, including Eucalyptus, it does not +exceed sixteen plants. Of Eucalyptus itself, only seven species +were detected on those shores, and these, for the most part, form +small trees, more approaching the average dimensions of all their +congeners in the colony of Port Jackson. Melaleuca is limited to +three species, one of which was originally discovered by the +celebrated navigator, Dampier, on the West Coast, where +Beaufortia has been recently seen. Four species of Tristania, +their related genus, were gathered in about latitude 15 degrees +South, where also an Eugenia, bearing fruit, was observed; but of +Leptospermum, or Baeckea, genera chiefly belonging to the higher +latitudes of New Holland, no species appeared throughout the +whole extent of coast examined.</p> +<p>RHAMNEAE and CELASTRINAE were formerly united among the Rhamni +of Jussieu, but disposed in sections, differing from each other +in the position of the stamina, with relation to the petals, and +in the character of the fruit; which, when viewed with other +important differences of fructification, induced Mr. Brown to +modify and define them as distinct orders.</p> +<p>In the Herbarium of the voyages, there are a few plants +belonging to Rhamnus, Ziziphus, Ceanothus, or Pomaderris, and +Celastrus, but both families prove to be comparatively rare in +the intratropical parts of Terra Australis, beyond which +Cryptandra seems only to exist. Upon the north-western shores, a +species of Ziziphus (common to the East and North Coasts) forms a +tree of large dimensions, where also an undescribed Celastrus has +been discovered. Since Pomaderris evidently increases from the +verge of the tropic southerly towards the parallel of Port +Jackson, where its maximum exists, and as it is frequent on the +South Coast, it is highly probable the West Coast is not wanting +of the genus, particularly as traces of it were found on Dirk +Hartog's Island.</p> +<p>LEGUMINOSEAE. There are upwards of one hundred and forty +species of this extensive natural class in the Herbarium recently +formed, which bear a proportion to the aggregate of the entire +collections of about one to nine.</p> +<p>Of the Australian portion of Mimoseae, which (having been met +with upon all the coasts of the continent, and equally diffused +in the interior) forms a leading characteristic of its +vegetation, upwards of fifty species have been collected, in +various stages of fructification; nearly the whole of which are +unpublished plants. Several of those discovered on the +north-western shores, and islands off the West Coast, being also +extremely curious in their general form and habits; and the +existence of a few appears limited to a solitary particular +situation, and no one species was observed common to those parts, +and the opposite or eastern shores of the continent.</p> +<p>The Papilionaceous division exceeds seventy species, +two-thirds of which belong to established diadelphous genera, +found chiefly within the tropic, where some, peculiar to Terra +Australis, and heretofore limited to the more temperate regions, +have been discovered. Thus Hovea and Bossiaea were detected in +New South Wales, in latitude 20 and 22 degrees South, as well as +on the North Coast; the latter genus being likewise found on the +north-western shores, where also two species of Kennedia exist; +and Templetonia, a genus nearly related to Bossiaea, originally +discovered on the southern shores of Australia, is abundant on an +island off the West Coast.</p> +<p>Upon the North-west Coast, particularly in the parallels of 14 +and 15 degrees South, where an exotic feature (if the usual +characteristic of the Flora of other countries might in this case +be so termed) is as manifest, and is as strongly blended with the +pure Australian character (Eucalyptus and Acacia) in its general +vegetation, as on any other parts of those shores; Jacksonia and +Gompholobium, genera of Papilionaceae, with distinct stamens, +almost limited to the parallel of Port Jackson and the South +Coast, were observed: Daviesia, almost wholly restricted to the +higher Australian latitudes, has been remarked on the North +Coast. Of Lomentaceae, Bauhinia, Caesalpinia, and the emigrant +genus Guilandina, are all of intratropical existence in New South +Wales, as also upon the North-west Coast; but Cassia, although it +has an equal extensive range in the equinoctial parts of New +Holland, has also been recently traced as far in the interior, on +the parallel of Port Jackson, as the meridian of 146 degrees +East.</p> +<p>EUPHORBIACEAE. The Herbarium contains thirty-three plants of +this very numerous order, whose maximum seems decidedly to exist +in India and equinoctial America. The whole of the Australian +species are referable to established Linnean genera, of which +Croton and Phyllanthus are most remarkable and numerous, existing +on all the intratropical shores of Terra Australis, but by no +means limited to them, both genera, together with Euphorbia and +Jatropha, being found in the parallel of Port Jackson; and Croton +exists likewise at the southern extreme of Van Diemen's Land, +which is probably the limit of the genus on that hemisphere.</p> +<p>A Tragia (scarcely distinct from a species indigenous in +India) is sparingly scattered on the East and North Coasts; and +Acalypha has been remarked on these, as well as the north-western +shores.</p> +<p>PITTOSPOREAE. Of this small family, whose characters and +limits were first described by Mr. Brown, there are sixteen +species in the Herbarium of these voyages, referable to Bursaria, +Billardiera, Pittosporum, and two unpublished genera.</p> +<p>Billardiera, whose species are wholly volubilous, and which +are not found north of the parallel of Port Jackson, is frequent +on the South-west Coast, and has been recently remarked on the +West Coast of Van Diemen's Land. Bursaria on the other hand, +appearing limited to New South Wales, has been traced within the +tropic to latitude 19 degrees South on those eastern shores, and +although the genus Pittosporum is even more extensively diffused +on that coast, it has not been met with upon the north-western +shores, whilst the islands off the West Coast furnished me with +two new species.</p> +<p>DIOSMEAE, although very frequent in the higher latitudes of +Terra Australis, where they are so frequent as to give a peculiar +character to their vegetable productions, is comparatively rare +within the tropic; for upon the East Coast Eriostemon and +Phebalium appear to be the only genera, the latter having been +recently discovered, in about latitude 20 degrees South.</p> +<p>With some undescribed species of Boronia, a new genus allied +to Eriostemon has been observed on the north-western shores, in +the parallel of 15 degrees South, having a remarkable pinnatified +fimbriated calyx.</p> +<p>Of the related family ZYGOPHYLLEAE (an order proposed by Mr. +Brown to be separated from the Rutaceae of Jussieu) Tribulus is +frequent on the tropical shores of New Holland, and a species of +Zygophyllum, with linear conjugate leaves and tetrapterous fruit, +was remarked upon an island off Shark's Bay, on the West +Coast.</p> +<p>MELIACEAE. The several genera of this order, whose maximum is +in the equinoctial parts of America, differ from each other in +the form of the remarkable cylindrical nectarium, the situation +or insertion of the antherae upon it, as well as the character of +its almost wholly capsular fruit. This structure of nectarium is +most striking in Turraea, of which a species was observed upon +the East Coast, far within the tropic; where also, as well as on +all the other equinoctial shores of the continent, Carapa, more +remarkable on account of the valvular character of its capsules, +and the magnitude and irregular figure of its nuts, is very +general, and probably not distinct from the plant (C. +moluccensis, Lam.) of Rumphius, who has given us a figure in his +Herbarium Amboinense volume 3 table 61, 62.</p> +<p>SAPINDACEAE. Of the very few plants referred to the family in +the Herbarium, two genera are only worthy of remark here, the one +an Ornitrophe, found on the East Coast, in about latitude 35 +degrees, as also within the tropic; and the other, which appears +to belong to Stadmannia, was discovered upon the same coast, in +latitude 31 degrees South, the type of the genus being the bois +de fer of the French colonists, a timber tree indigenous at the +Island of Mauritius.</p> +<p>MALVACEAE, Juss. Tiliaceae, Juss. Sterculiaceae, Vent. +Buttnericeae, Brown. These several families, of which the first +is by far the most extensive, have been viewed by Mr. Brown, as +so many allied orders of one natural class, to which the general +title of Malvaceae might be applied. About thirty-six species of +these orders collectively, are preserved in the present +Herbarium, referable at least to eleven genera, of which nine are +most abundant in (and form a characteristic feature of) the +botany of India, and the equinoctial parts of South America. +Fourteen species of Hibiscus and Sida were observed on the +intratropical Coasts of Australia, beyond which also, on the +opposite shores of the continent, each genus has been remarked. +One species of Bombax with polyandrous flowers, and subspherical +obtusely pentagonal capsules, was discovered upon the East Coast, +in about latitude 14 degrees South, and on nearly the western +extreme of the same parallel, it appeared much more abundant. Of +Sterculia which is scarcely to be found beyond the tropics in +other countries, a species exists in New South Wales in the +latitude of 34 degrees, on which parallel it is more frequent in +the western interior, and in that direction it has been traced to +the distance of three hundred miles from the sea-coast. The genus +is also found on the North and North-west Coasts, where the +species assume more particularly the habits of their congeners in +India. Among the plants of this family in the Herbarium is a +species of Helicteris (as the genus stands at present) which was +observed on the North-west Coast bearing fruit, wanting the +contortion that characterizes the genus.</p> +<p>This plant, together with three other described species, +having straight capsules, may hereafter be separated from that +Linnean genus, and constitute a new one of themselves. Grewia, +Corchorus, Triumfetta, and Waltheria, have been observed upon the +North-west Coast, where also Abroma, hitherto limited to the +tropical parts of New South Wales, has been discovered bearing +flowers and young fruit. One species of Commersonia was gathered +at widely-different parts of the north-western shores, and +Lasiopetalum, whose species are more general at both extremes of +the parallel of the colony of Port Jackson, has been also seen +just within the tropic on the East Coast, and at Dirk Hartog's +Island, off Shark's Bay, on the opposite shore.</p> +<p>CAPPARIDES. At least ten species of Capparis have been +discovered upon the coasts of Terra Australis, for the most part +within the tropic, but of these the fructification of two are +wanting. A few have been detected on the East Coast, but they are +more frequent and various in their species upon the north-western +shores of the continent. Within an area on this extensive coast, +not exceeding four degrees of longitude, on the parallel of 15 +degrees South, a tree of very remarkable growth and habit, has +been traced, having all the external form and bulk of Adansonia +of the western shores of Africa. At the respective period of +visiting those parts of the North-west Coast, this gouty tree had +previously cast its foliage of the preceding year, which is of +quinary insertion, but it bore ripe fruit, which is a large +elliptical pedicellated unilocalar capsule (a bacca corticosa) +containing many seeds enveloped in a dry pithy substance. Its +flowers, however, have never been discovered, but from the +characters of the fruit, it was (upon discovery) referred to this +natural family. M. Du Petit Thouars has formed a new genus of +Capparis pauduriformis of Lamarck, a plant of the Island of +Mauritius, which he has named Calyptranthus. It has one division +of the calyx so formed, that by its arcuated concavity (before +expansion) it conceals the whole flower, and the other portions +of the calyx; and should this genus be adopted by future +botanists, a second species has been recently discovered upon +Dirk Hartog's Island, although of remarkably different habit.</p> +<p>Cleome has been observed only in the equinoctial parts of +Australia, and like Capparis, several species exist on the +North-west Coast, being limited to C. viscosa in New South +Wales.</p> +<p>Drosera, which Jussieu associates with these genera is +generally diffused, being found within the tropic, at Endeavour +River, and on the North-west Coast; at Port Jackson, and at the +southern extremes of Van Diemen's Land.</p> +<p>DILLENIACEAE. To that Australian portion of the order lately +enumerated by M. Decandolle, the present Herbarium offers, in +addition, only two species of the genus Hemistemma of M. Du Petit +Thouars. The one discovered on the North-west Coast, and allied +to H. angustifolium of Mr. Brown; the other proving also new, but +approaching in character the doubtful species, H. leschenaultii +of Decandolle, and was discovered upon Rottnest Island, off the +western coast of the continent, and is the first certain species +of the genus, that is not limited to a tropical existence.</p> +<p>In addition to what has been advanced in respect to certain +natural orders that appear in the Herbarium, formed under the +stated circumstances, a slight mention might be made of other +detached genera, or families sparingly observed on these coasts, +that were more particularly investigated during the progress of +the late voyages; but as these several plants form portions of +orders so extremely limited, and in themselves presenting nothing +remarkable in their internal structure, or external habit, a few +remarks on a general comparison of the vegetation of the +North-west Coast, with the other shores of Terra Australis, will +conclude this notice.</p> +<p>It is very necessary to premise, that the plants observed and +collected upon the North-west Coast, during the late voyages, are +not to be considered as even a distant approach to an entire +Flora of that extensive line of shore; since the long-established +droughts of the seasons (as already remarked) in which the +greater part of that coast was visited, had wholly destroyed +plants of annual duration, with most of the Gramineae, and had +indeed generally affected the mass of its herbaceous vegetation. +The collections, therefore, can simply be viewed as a gleaning, +affording such general outlines of characteristic feature, as +will enable the botanist to trace its affinity to the more +minutely defined vegetation of the other equinoctial shores of +the continent, as well as perceive its general, and, in some +instances, almost total want of relation to the botany of other +parts, in the more temperate or higher latitudes, where certain +striking peculiarities of the Australian Flora more particularly +exist.</p> +<p>Upon a general comparison of those collections that were thus +formed on the North-west Coast, with the plants of the North and +East Coasts, aided also by some few observations made during the +voyages, it appears that (with the exception of Gompholobium, +Boronia, Kennedia, and one or two unpublished species not +referred to any family) the genera (of which several are proper +to India) are the same, although the species are very distinct +upon the several coasts.</p> +<p>Notwithstanding an identity of genera has been remarked upon +their opposite shores, there are, nevertheless, certain others, +frequent upon the East Coast, that appear wholly wanting on the +north-western shores: of these, the existence of some, even in +the tropical parts of New South Wales, seems governed by the +primary formation of the coast, its mountainous structure, and +consequent permanency of moisture in a greater or less degree; +namely, almost all the genera of Filices, the parasitical +Orchideae, Piper, Dracontium and Calladium (genera of Aroideae) +Commelina and Aneilema, Calamus and Seaforthia, Hellenia a +solitary Australian genus of Scitamineae, some genera of +Rubiaceae, particularly Psychotria and Coffea, certain genera of +Asphodeleae, as Cordyline, and a genus allied to it, whose +fructification is at length obtained, a solitary plant of +Melastomeae, and an individual Nymphea.</p> +<p>Other genera also, but little influenced by those local +circumstances of situation on the East Coast, that are excluded +from the opposite shores, are Leucopogon (the only equinoctial +genus of Epacrideae observed during the late voyages) the +families Bignoniaceae, Jasmineae, the genus Erythrina, and of +Coniferae, Araucaria of Norfolk Island. This absence of several +orders of plants on the north-western shores, existing in New +South Wales, or opposite coast, as well as the consideration (at +the same time) of the evident causes of such a disparity of +species on the former coast, would suggest the opinion, that such +plants alone of other parts of the continent are indigenous to +the North-west Coast, as are capable of sustaining themselves in +a soil subjected to seasons of protracted parching droughts. This +may apply to some species upon that coast, but it cannot be +reduced to a general conclusion; for, on the one hand, it is +singular so few of the plants of the South and South-west Coasts, +and particularly that none other of their genera of Proteaceae +(than those already mentioned) found altogether in an arid soil, +should have been discovered throughout any part of its extensive +shore; whilst, on the other hand, at a peculiar structure of a +small and limited portion of that coast, in the vicinity of York +Sound, a sufficiency of shade was observed to be actually +produced by the unusually broken character of the country, to +favour the nourishment and growth of certain plants alone to be +seen beneath the shade of dense forests. These species were +Myristica insipida, discovered by Mr. Brown, on one of the Prince +of Wales group of islands on the North Coast; Cryptocarya +triplinervis, Brown; bearing ripe fruit, Abroma fastuosa; and an +undescribed Eugenia.</p> +<p>Although the several genera of plants lately observed on the +north-western shores are also frequent in other equinoctial parts +of the continent, there is, among the many species which are +absolutely proper to that coast, a Capparis of such extraordinary +habit, as to form a feature in the landscape of a limited extent +of its shores, in the enormous bulk of its stem and general +ramification, bearing a striking analogy to the Adansonia of the +west coast of Africa.</p> +<p>The results of such observations on the vegetation as could +only be made in a general way, at parts approaching each extreme +of the North-west Coast, show their little affinity to each +other; for the northern extremity partakes more fully of that +feature of the line of coast contiguous to it, which (as already +remarked) extends along the north-western shores, declines +materially at, and in the vicinity of their southern limits, +where the characteristic vegetation of the south, and perhaps the +west, coasts has more particularly been found. Besides Eucalyptus +and Acacia, which are abundant on every shore, and generally +diffused throughout those parts of the interior that have been +penetrated, there is another genus almost equally dispersed, +which is, however, on the North-west Coast reduced to three +species. This is Dodonaea, whose maximum is certainly in New +South Wales, within and beyond the tropic, upon the coast, and +generally in the interior of the country, extending also to the +southern extremity of Van Diemen's Land.</p> +<p>Our very limited knowledge of the Flora of this vast continent +(excepting of a part east of longitude 144 degrees, and included +between the parallels of 31 and 35 degrees in New South Wales) is +entirely confined to the vegetation of its immediate shores, upon +every distinct coast of which, landings, more or less frequent, +and under various circumstances, have been effected; although of +all, very considerable portions remain unexplored, and of the +line of West Coast (properly so denominated) the shores of +Shark's Bay, and some few parts south of it, have alone been +scientifically investigated. The interior within the tropic +remains entirely in obscurity; the continental defect of a want +of large streams having a distant source, to aid a penetration to +the internal parts of the country, together with other effectual +obstacles, draw at present a veil, and forbid all research into +its Natural History and character, which will not be removed for +very considerable periods (perhaps ages) yet to come!</p> +<p>It was the general remark made during a former expedition in +the interior of New South Wales, that no absolutely entire change +takes place in the vegetation east of the meridian of the new +settlement named Bathurst; but that the plants of the coast were +more or less frequent at a hundred and fifty miles from the sea, +although in a country estimated at about two thousand feet above +its level. Having to this circumstance added a remarkable and +obvious sameness (arising from an extensive dispersion) of a vein +of vegetation in a large tract of country, it may be inquired, +how far these facts might, when applied to other parallels, +identify a certain portion of the Flora of the interior, and that +of the sea-coast in the same latitude; or, in other terms, how +far the botany of the coast indicates the general feature of the +vegetation to a certain limit, in the interior on the same +parallel? Favourable opportunities were afforded me, to compare +the vegetation of opposite coasts within the tropic, at the +eastern and western extremes of a particular parallel; and the +results of such a comparison identified many species on the two +coasts. I have annexed a list of those plants that are common to +the North-west and East Coasts in and about the parallel of 15 +degrees South, from a contemplation of which, together with the +above remarks, and a further comparison of the species with those +of the shores of the Gulf of Carpentaria, through which that +degree of latitude passes, might not a general idea of some +portion of the Flora of the expanse of intermediate interior (far +beyond the reach of actual investigation) be presumed?</p> +<p>A few observations relative to the geographical range of +certain genera and species, hitherto considerably circumscribed, +will close this notice.</p> +<p>The genus Pandanus has ever been viewed by botanists as +equinoctial; nor was it till recently ascertained satisfactorily, +that one of its species (P. pedunculatus, Brown) exists on the +shores of Port Macquarie in New South Wales, in latitude 31 +degrees South: and I have been credibly informed, that the same +plant is frequent in the vicinity of Port Stephens, which is at +least a degree to the southward of the above parallel. The +latitude of 32 degrees South may be considered the utmost extreme +of ranges from the equator of the genus in Terra Australis, on +the opposite shore of which, as also in all other countries, it +has not been remarked beyond the tropics.</p> +<p>The palms of Terra Australis, which (as previously observed) +are remarkably limited on the north-western shores, have a very +considerable diffusion on the North and East Coasts, and have +even a more general dispersion on the latter shores, than has +been allowed them formerly. Seaforthia is frequent in dense +forests on the East Coast, almost to latitude 35 degrees South, +where it exhibits all the tropical habits assumed on the northern +shores, although the difference of climate, and consequent +temperature, are abundantly obvious. On the other hand, a palm of +very robust growth, with large flabelliform fronds, and spinous +foot-stalks, was remarked at the head of Liverpool River, in +latitude 12 degrees South, on the North Coast; and although +without fructification, no doubt existed of its being the Corypha +australis, hitherto limited to the shores and vicinity of Port +Jackson.</p> +<p>Araucaria excelsa. The Norfolk Island pine, which, without +doubt, must have been particularly noticed by the celebrated +circumnavigator Captain Cook, in 1770, on the discovery of New +South Wales, although the circumstance of the very general +existence of a pine upon the islands and main of that coast, +north of the Percy Isles, does not appear to be mentioned in the +accounts of that particular voyage, has a far more extensive +range upon that shore than has been hitherto understood. During +the Mermaid's voyages, Araucaria was observed in the vicinity of +Mount Warning, in New South Wales, which lies in the parallel of +Norfolk Island (29 degrees South); thence northerly it was very +sparingly seen towards the tropic, within which, however, as far +as latitude 14 degrees, it is very abundant, forming upon several +islands the only timber. This is probably the nearest approach of +the species to the equinoctial line; and although it occupies an +area of nine hundred miles, it is very probably limited in Terra +Australis to its immediate shores; and, as appears to be the case +with Pandanus, exists only within the influence of the sea +air.</p> +<p>Calladium macrorhizon, Willd., formerly observed by Sir Joseph +Banks, at Endeavour River, on the East Coast, has been recently +detected in moist woods, in the country off which the Five +Islands are situate, extending on that shore to latitude 35 +degrees South: and Schelhammera multiflora, Br., a delicate plant +of Melanthaceae, discovered likewise at Endeavour River, abounds +in shady forests, in latitude 31 degrees, upon the same extensive +coast.</p> +<p>The following plants, formerly considered as indigenous only +in Van Diemen's Land, have been recently ascertained to exist +also in New South Wales, in or about the parallel of the colony +of Port Jackson.</p> +<p>Croton viscosum, Labill., originally discovered on the +South-west Coast, was seen in the interior, as far to the +westward of the colony as longitude 146 degrees East.</p> +<p>Croton quadripartitum, Labill., was observed in longitude 148 +degrees.</p> +<p>Goodia latifolia, Salisb., was remarked sparingly in the +interior, in the meridian of 147 degrees 30 minutes East: and +Daviesia latifolia of Mr. Brown is very frequent in societies +upon plains at Bathurst, in longitude 149 degrees East, where +also Eryngium vesiculosum, of Labillardiere, was observed.</p> +<p>Aster argophyllus and obovatus, Labill. These two species were +described by Mons. Labillardiere, from specimens gathered in the +southern extremes of the above island, and have been lately seen +tolerably frequent in a remarkable tract of country, in latitude +34 degrees, on the limit of the colony, where the former assumes +a robust, arborescent habit. Aster phlogopappus, of the same +eminent author, was recently remarked upon the more elevated +parts of the Blue Mountain Range, on the margin of a remarkable +cataract.</p> +<hr align="center" width="20%"> +<h3>A LIST OF PLANTS COMMON TO THE EAST AND NORTH-WEST COASTS OF +TERRA AUSTRALIS, IN AND ABOUT THE PARALLEL OF FIFTEEN DEGREES +SOUTH, WHERE THE BREADTH OF CONTINENT EXCEEDS 1800 MILES.</h3> +<p>Gleichenia Hermanni, Br.<br> +Eriocaulon fistulosum, Br.<br> +Philydrum lanuginosum, Gaertn.<br> +Flagellaria indica, L.<br> +Dioscorea bulbifera, L.<br> +*? Pandanus pedunculatus, Br.<br> +Cycas angulata, Br.<br> +Santalum oblongatum, Br.<br> +Exocarpus latifolia, Br.<br> +Persoonia falcata, Br.<br> +Grevillea mimosoides, Br.<br> +Hakea arborescens, Br.<br> +Buchnera ramosissima, Br.<br> +Adenosma coerulea, Br.<br> +Orthostemon erectum, Br.<br> +Tabernaemontana orientalis, Br.<br> +Carissa ovata, Br.<br> +Strychnos lucida, Br.<br> +Alyxia obtusifolia, Br.<br> +Ipomoea longifiora, Br.<br> +Ipomoea denticulata, Br.<br> +Ipomoea maritima, Br.<br> +Evolvulus villosus, R. et Pav.<br> +Cuscuta carinata, Br.<br> +Cordia orientalis, Br.<br> +* Clerodendrum inerme, Br.<br> +* Avicennia tomentosa, L.<br> +Chionanthus axillaris, Br.<br> +Olea paniculata, Br.<br> +Maba laurina, Br.<br> +Sersalisia obovata, Br.<br> +Mimusops parvifolia, Br.<br> +Terminalia, sp. allied to Catappa, Lam.<br> +Cleome viscosa, L.<br> +Capparis sepiaria, L.<br> +Hibiscus tiliaceus, L.<br> +Abroma fastuosa, Br.<br> +Bombax australis.<br> +Jacksonia thesioides.<br> +Bauhiniae sp.<br> +Caesalpiniae sp.<br> +Cassia occidentalis, L.<br> +Guilandina Bonduc, L.<br> +Morinda citrifolia, L.<br> +* Carapa moluccensis, Lam.<br> +Zizyphus melastomoides.<br> +* Bruguiera gymnorhiza, Lam.<br> +Casuarina equisetifolia, Lam.</p> +<p>Should the botany of the shores of the Gulf of Carpentaria, in +the vicinity of those parts, through which the above parallels +pass, generally correspond (on comparison) with the above list, +it is more than probable that these several species occupy +portions of the intermediate interior bounded by the meridians of +125 and 145 degrees East; those plants excepted, having an +asterisk prefixed to them, which as forming mangroves, or from +other causes exist only on the sea shore.</p> +<hr align="center" width="20%"> +<h3>A LIST OF PLANTS OBSERVED DURING THE LATE VOYAGES ON THE +SHORES OF TERRA AUSTRALIS, THAT ARE ALSO COMMON TO INDIA OR SOUTH +AMERICA.</h3> +<p>Acrostichum alcicorne, Sw.<br> +Polypodium acrostichoides, Sw.<br> +Nephrodium exaltatum, Br.<br> +Nephrodium unitum, Br.<br> +Vittaria elongata, Sw.<br> +Asplenium nidus, L.<br> +Daval1ia flaccida, Br.<br> +Gleichenia Hermanni, Br.<br> +Flagellaria indica, L.<br> +Dioscorea bulbifera, L.<br> +Calladium ? macrorhizon, Willd.<br> +Aristolochia indica, L.<br> +Daphne indica, L.<br> +Salicornia indica, Willd.<br> +Deeringia celosioides, Br.<br> +Plumbago zeylanica, L.<br> +Dischidia nummularifolia, Br.<br> +Acanthus ilicifolius, L.<br> +Acanthus ebracteatus, L.<br> +Ipomea Turpethum, Br.<br> +Ipomea denticulata, Br.<br> +Ipomea maritima, Br.<br> +Evolvulus villosus, R. et Pav.<br> +Trichodesma zeylanica, Br.<br> +Tournefortia argentea, L.<br> +Cordia orientalis, Br.<br> +Plectranthus scutellarioides, Br.<br> +Clerodendrum inerme, Br.<br> +Vitex ovata, L.<br> +Vitex trifolia, L.<br> +Avicennia tomentosa, L.<br> +Mimusops kauki, L.<br> +Aegiceras fragrans, C. Koenig.<br> +Scaevola koenigii, Vahl.<br> +Cleome viscosa, L.<br> +Capparis sepiaria, L. ?<br> +Calophyllum inophyllum, L.<br> +Morinda citrifolia, L.<br> +Carapa moluccensis, Lam.<br> +Sophora tomentosa, L.<br> +Cassia occidentalis, L.<br> +Guilandina bonduc, L.<br> +Abrus precatorius, L.<br> +? Acacia scandens, Willd. ?<br> +Hibiscus tiliaceus, L.<br> +Suriana maritima, Jacqu.<br> +Pemphis acida, Forst.<br> +Rhizophora mangle, L. ?<br> +Bruguiera gymnorhiza, Lam.<br> +Sonneratia acida, L.<br> +Abroma fastuosa, Br.<br> +Casuarina equisetifolia, Forst.</p> +<hr align="center" width="20%"> +<h3>CHARACTER AND DESCRIPTION OF KINGIA, A NEW GENUS OF PLANTS +FOUND ON THE SOUTH-WEST COAST OF NEW HOLLAND: WITH OBSERVATIONS +ON THE STRUCTURE OF ITS UNIMPREGNATED OVULUM; AND ON THE FEMALE +FLOWER OF CYCADEAE AND CONIFERAE.</h3> +<p align="center">BY ROBERT BROWN, ESQUIRE, F.R.S.S.L. AND E. +F.L.S.</p> +<p>(READ BEFORE THE LINNEAN SOCIETY OF LONDON, NOVEMBER 1 AND 15, +1825.)</p> +<p>In the Botanical Appendix to the Voyage to Terra Australis, I +have mentioned a plant of very remarkable appearance, observed in +the year 1801, near the shores of King George the Third's Sound, +in Mr. Westall's view of which, published in Captain Flinders' +Narrative, it is introduced.</p> +<p>The plant in question was then found with only the imperfect +remains of fructification: I judged of its affinities, therefore, +merely from its habit, and as in this respect it entirely agrees +with Xanthorrhoea, included the short notice given of it in my +remarks on Asphodeleae, to which that genus was referred.* Mr. +Cunningham, the botanist attached to Captain King's voyages, who +examined the plant in the same place of growth, in February, +1818, and in December, 1821, was not more fortunate than myself. +Captain King, however, in his last visit to King George's Sound, +in November, 1822, observed it with ripe seeds: and at length Mr. +William Baxter, whose attention I had particularly directed to +this plant, found it, on the shores of the same port in 1823, +both in flower and fruit. To this zealous collector, and to his +liberal employer, Mr. Henchman, I am indebted for complete +specimens of its fructification, which enable me to establish it +as a genus distinct from any yet described.</p> +<blockquote>(*Footnote. Flinders Voyage volume 2 page +576.)</blockquote> +<p>To this new genus I have given the name of my friend Captain +King, who, during his important surveys of the Coasts of New +Holland, formed valuable collections in several departments of +Natural History, and on all occasions gave every assistance in +his power to Mr. Cunningham, the indefatigable botanist who +accompanied him. The name is also intended as a mark of respect +to the memory of the late Captain Philip Gidley King, who, as +Governor of New South Wales, materially forwarded the objects of +Captain Flinders' voyage; and to whose friendship Mr. Ferdinand +Bauer and myself were indebted for important assistance in our +pursuits while we remained in that colony.</p> +<p>KINGIA.</p> +<p>ORD. NAT. Junceae prope Dasypogon, Calectasiam et Xerotem.</p> +<p>CHAR. GEN. Perianthium sexpartitum, regulare, glumaceum, +persistens. Stamina sex, fera hypogyna: Antheris basi affixis. +Ovarium triloculare, loculis monospermis; ovulis adscendentibus. +Stylus 1. Stigma tridentatum. Pericarpium exsuccum, indehiscens, +monospermum, perianthio scarioso cinctum.</p> +<p>Planta facie Xanthorrhoeae elatioris. Caudex arhorescens +cicatricibus basibusve foliorum exasperatus? Folia caudicem +terminantia confertissima longissima, figura et dispositione +Xanthorrhoeae. Pedunculi numerosi foliis breviores, bracteis +vaginantibus imbricatis tecti, floriferi terminales erecti, mox, +caudice parum elongato foliisque novellis productis, laterales, +et divaricati vel deflexi, terminati capitulo denso globoso +floribus tribracteatis.</p> +<p>Kingia australis. Table C.</p> +<p>DESC. Caudex arborescens erectus simplicissimus cylindraceus, +6-18-pedes altus, crassitie femoris. Folia caudicem terminantia +numerosissima patula, apicibus arcuato-recurvis, lorea, solida, +ancipitia apice teretiusculo, novella undique tecta pilis +adpressis strictis acutis laevibus, angulis lateralibus et +ventrali retrorsum scabris. Pedunculi numerosi teretes +8-12-pollicares crassitie digiti, vaginis integris brevibus +imbricatis hinc in foliolum subulatum productis tecti. Capitulum +globosum, floridum magnitudine pruni minoris, fructiferum pomum +parvum aequans. Flores undique dense imbricati, tribracteati, +sessiles. Bractea exterior lanceolata breve acuminata planiuscula +erecta, extus villosa intus glabra, post lapsum fructus +persistens: duae laterales angusto-naviculares, acutissimae, +carina lateribusque villosis, longitudine fere exterioris, simul +cum perianthio fructifero, separatim tamen, dilabentibus. +Perianthium sexpartitum regulare subaequale glumaceum: foliola +lanceolata acutissima disco nervoso nervis immersis +simplicissimis, antica et postica plana, lateralia complicata +lateribus inaequalibus, omnia basi subangustata, extus +longitudinaliter sed extra medium praecipue villosa, intus +glaberrima, aestivatione imbricata. Stamina sex subaequalia, +aestivatione stricta filamentis sensim elongantibus: Filamenta +fere hypogyna ipsis basibus foliolorum perianthii quibus opposita +leviter adhaerentia, filiformia glabra teretia: Antherae stantes, +ante dehiscentiam lineares obtusae filamento paulo latiores, +defloratae subulatae vix crassitie filamenti, loculis +parallelo-contiguis connectivo dorsali angusto adnatis, axi +ventrali longitudinaliter dehiscentibus, lobulis baseos brevibus +acutis subadnatis: Pollen simplex breve ovale laeve. Pistillum: +Ovarium sessile disco nullo squamulisve cinctum, lanceolatum +trigono-anceps villosum, triloculare, loculis monospermis. Ovula +erecta fundo anguli interioris loculi paulo supra basin suam +inserta, obovata lenticulari-compressa, aptera: Testa in ipsa +basi acutiuscula foramine minuto perforata: Membrana interna +respectu testae inversa, hujusce nempe apici lata basi inserta, +ovata apice angustato aperto foramen testae obturante: Nucleus +cavitate membranae conformis, ejusdem basi insertus, caeterum +liber, pulposus solidus, apice acutiusculo laevi aperturam +membranae internae attingente. Stylus trigonus strictus, infra +villosus, dimidio superiore glabro, altitudine staminum, iisdem +paulo praecocior, exsertus nempe dum illa adhuc inclusa. Stigmata +tria brevissima acuta denticuliformia. Pericarpium exsuccum, +indehiscens, villosum, basi styli aristatum, perianthio scarioso +et filamentis emarcidis cinctum, abortione monospermum. Semen +turgidum obovatum retusum, integumento (testa) simplici +membranaceo aqueo-pallido, bine (intus) fere a basi acutiuscula, +raphe fusca verticem retusum attingente ibique in chalazam parvam +concolorem ampliata. Albumen semini conforme dense carnosum +album. Embryo monocotyledoneus, aqueo-pallidus subglobosus, +extremitate inferiore (radiculari) acuta, in ipsa basi seminis +situs, semi-immersus, nec albumine omnino inclusus.</p> +<p>Table C. figure 1. Kingiae australis pedunculus capitulo +florido terminatus; figure 2, capitulum fructiferum; 3, sectio +transversalis pedunculi: 4, folium: hae magnitudine naturali, +sequentes omnes plus minus auctae sunt; 5, flos; 6, stamen; 7, +anthera antice et, 8, eadem postice visa; 9, pistillum; 10, +ovarii sectio transversalis; 11, ejusdem portio longitudinaliter +secta exhibens ovulum adscendens cavitatem loculi replens; 12, +ovulum ita longitudinaliter sectum ut membrana interna solummodo +ejusque insertio in apice cavitatis testae visa sit; 13, ovuli +sectio longitudinalis profundius ducta exhibens membranam +internam et nucleum ex ejusdem basi ortum; 14, bracteae capituli +fructiferi; 15, pericarpium perianthio filamentisque +persistentibus cinctum; 16, pericarpium perianthio avulso +filamentorum basibus relictis; 17, semen.</p> +<p>OBS. 1.</p> +<p>It remains to be ascertained, whether in this genus a resin is +secreted by the bases of the lower leaves, as in Xanthorrhoea; +and whether, which is probable, it agrees also in the internal +structure of its stem with that genus. In Xanthorrhoea the +direction of fibres or vessels of the caudex seems at first sight +to resemble in some degree the dicotyledonous arrangement, but in +reality much more nearly approaches to that of Dracaena draco, +allowance being made for the greater number, and extreme +narrowness of leaves, to which all the radiating vessels +belong.*</p> +<blockquote>(*Footnote. My knowledge of this remarkable structure +of Xanthorrhoea is chiefly derived from specimens of the caudex +of one of the larger species of the genus, brought from Port +Jackson, and deposited in the collection at the Jardin du Roi of +Paris by M. Gaudichaud, the very intelligent botanist who was +attached to Captain De Freycinet's voyage.)</blockquote> +<p>OBS. 2.</p> +<p>I have placed Kingia in the natural order Junceae along with +Dasypogon, Calectasia and Xerotes, genera peculiar to New +Holland, and of which the two former have hitherto been observed +only, along with it, on the shores of King George's Sound.</p> +<p>The striking resemblance of Kingia, in caudex and leaves, to +Xanthorrhoea, cannot fail to suggest its affinity to that genus +also. Although this affinity is not confirmed by a minute +comparison of the parts of fructification, a sufficient agreement +is still manifest to strengthen the doubts formerly expressed of +the importance of those characters, by which I attempted to +define certain families of the great class Liliaceae.</p> +<p>In addition, however, to the difference in texture of the +outer coat of the seed, and in those other points, on which I +then chiefly depended in distinguishing Junceae from Asphodeleae, +a more important character in Junceae exists in the position of +the embryo, whose radicle points always to the base of the seed, +the external umbilicus being placed in the axis of the inner or +ventral surface, either immediately above the base as in Kingia, +or towards the middle, as in Xerotes.</p> +<p>OBS. 3.</p> +<p>ON THE STRUCTURE OF THE UNIMPREGNATED OVULUM IN PHAENOGAMOUS +PLANTS.</p> +<p>The description which I have given of the Ovulum of Kingia, +though essentially different from the accounts hitherto published +of that organ before fecundation, in reality agrees with its +ordinary structure in Phaenogamous plants.</p> +<p>I shall endeavour to establish these two points; namely, the +agreement of this description with the usual structure of the +Ovulum, and its essential difference from the accounts of other +observers, as briefly as possible at present; in tending +hereafter to treat the subject at greater length, and also with +other views.</p> +<p>I have formerly more than once* adverted to the structure of +the Ovulum, chiefly as to the indications it affords, even before +fecundation, of the place and direction of the future Embryo. +These remarks, however, which were certainly very brief, seem +entirely to have escaped the notice of those authors who have +since written on the same subject.</p> +<blockquote>(*Footnote. Flinders Voyage 2 page 601, and Linnean +Society Transactions 12 page page 136.)</blockquote> +<p>In the Botanical Appendix to the account of Captain Flinders' +Voyage, published in 1814, the following description of the +Ovulum of Cephalotus follicularis is given: Ovulum erectum, intra +testam membranaceam continens sacculum pendulum, magnitudine +cavitatis testae, and in reference to this description, I have in +the same place remarked that, "from the structure of the Ovulum, +even in the unimpregnated state, I entertain no doubt that the +radicle of the Embryo points to the umbilicus."*</p> +<blockquote>(*Footnote. Flinders Voyage loc. cit.)</blockquote> +<p>My attention had been first directed to this subject in 1809, +in consequence of the opinion I had then formed of the function +of the Chalaza in seeds;* and sometime before the publication of +the observation now quoted, I had ascertained that in +Phaenogamous plants the unimpregnated Ovulum very generally +consisted of two concentric membranes, or coats, enclosing a +Nucleus of a pulpy cellular texture. I had observed also, that +the inner coat had no connexion either with the outer or with the +nucleus, except at its origin; and that with relation to the +outer coat it was generally inverted, while it always agreed in +direction with the nucleus. And, lastly, that at the apex of the +nucleus the radicle of the future Embryo would constantly be +found.</p> +<blockquote>(*Footnote. Linnean Society Transactions 10 page +35.)</blockquote> +<p>On these grounds my opinion respecting the Embryo of +Cephalotus was formed. In describing the Ovulum in this genus, I +employed, indeed, the less correct term sacculus, which, however, +sufficiently expressed the appearance of the included body in the +specimens examined, and served to denote my uncertainty in this +case as to the presence of the inner membrane.</p> +<p>I was at that time also aware of the existence, in several +plants, of a foramen in the coats of the Ovulum, always distinct +from, and in some cases diametrically opposite to the external +umbilicus, and which I had in no instance found cohering either +directly with the parietes of the Ovarium, or with any process +derived from them. But, as I was then unable to detect this +foramen in many of the plants which I had examined, I did not +attach sufficient importance to it; and in judging of the +direction of the Embryo, entirely depended on ascertaining the +apex of the nucleus, either directly by dissection, or indirectly +from the vascular cord of the outer membrane: the termination of +this cord affording a sure indication of the origin of the inner +membrane, and consequently of the base of the nucleus, the +position of whose apex is therefore readily determined.</p> +<p>In this state of my knowledge the subject was taken up in +1818, by my lamented friend the late Mr. Thomas Smith, who, +eminently qualified for an investigation where minute accuracy +and great experience in microscopical observation were necessary, +succeeded in ascertaining the very general existence of the +foramen in the membranes of the Ovulum. But as the foramina in +these membranes invariably correspond both with each other and +with the apex of the nucleus, a test of the direction of the +future Embryo was consequently found nearly as universal, and +more obvious than that which I had previously employed.</p> +<p>To determine in what degree this account of the vegetable +Ovulum differs from those hitherto given, and in some measure, +that its correctness may be judged of, I shall proceed to state +the various observations that have been actually made, and the +opinions that have been formed on the subject, as briefly as I am +able, taking them in chronological order.</p> +<p>In 1672, Grew* describes in the outer coat of the seeds of +many Leguminous plants a small foramen, placed opposite to the +radicle of the Embryo, which, he adds, is "not a hole casually +made, or by the breaking off of the stalk," but formed for +purposes afterwards stated to be the aeration of the Embryo, and +facilitating the passage of its radicle in germination. It +appears that he did not consider this foramen in the testa as +always present, the functions which he ascribes to it being +performed in cases where it is not found, either, according to +him, by the hilum itself, or in hard fruits, by an aperture in +the stone or shell.</p> +<blockquote>(*Footnote. Anatomy of Veget. begun page 3. Anatomy +of Plants page 2.)</blockquote> +<p>In another part of his work* he describes and figures, in the +early state of the Ovulum, two coats, of which the outer is the +testa; the other, his middle membrane, is evidently what I have +termed nucleus, whose origin in the Ovulum of the Apricot he has +distinctly represented and described.</p> +<blockquote>(*Footnote. Anatomy of Plants page 210 table +80.)</blockquote> +<p>Malpighi, in 1675,* gives the same account of the early state +of the Ovulum; his secundinae externae being the testa, and his +chorion the nucleus. He has not, however, distinguished, though +he appears to have seen, the foramen of Grew, from the fenestra +and fenestella, and these, to which he assigns the same +functions, are merely his terms for the hilum.</p> +<blockquote>(*Footnote. Anatome Plant. page 75 et +80.)</blockquote> +<p>In 1694, Camerarius, in his admirable essay on the sexes of +plants,* proposes, as queries merely, various modes in which +either the entire grains of pollen, or their particles after +bursting, may be supposed to reach and act upon the unimpregnated +Ovula, which he had himself carefully observed. With his usual +candour, however, he acknowledges his obligation on this subject +to Malpighi, to whose more detailed account of them he +refers.</p> +<blockquote>(*Footnote. Rudolphi Jacobi Camerarii de sexu +plantarum epistola page 8 46 et seq.)</blockquote> +<p>Mr. Samuel Morland, in 1703,* in extending Leeuwenhoek's +hypothesis of generation to plants, assumes the existence of an +aperture in the Ovulum, through which it is impregnated. It +appears, indeed, that he had not actually observed this aperture +before fecundation, but inferred its existence generally and at +that period, from having, as he says, "discovered in the seeds of +beans, peas, and Phaseoli, just under one end of what we call the +eye, a manifest perforation, which leads directly to the seminal +plant," and by which he supposes the Embryo to have entered. This +perforation is evidently the foramen discovered in the seeds of +Leguminous plants by Grew, of whose observations respecting it he +takes no notice, though he quotes him in another part of his +subject.</p> +<blockquote>(*Footnote. Philosophical Transactions volume 23 n. +287 page 1474.)</blockquote> +<p>In 1704, Etienne Francois Geoffroy,* and in 1711, his brother +Claude Joseph Geoffroy,** in support of the same hypothesis, +state the general existence of an aperture in the unimpregnated +vegetable Ovulum. It is not, however, probable that these authors +had really seen this aperture in the early state of the Ovulum in +any case, but rather that they had merely advanced from the +observation of Grew, and the conjecture founded on it by Morland, +whose hypothesis they adopt without acknowledgment, to the +unqualified assertion of its existence, in all cases. For it is +to be remarked, that they take no notice of what had previously +been observed or asserted on the more important parts of their +subject, while several passages are evidently copied, and the +whole account of the original state and development of the Ovulum +is literally translated from Camerarius' Essay. Nor does the +younger Geoffroy mention the earlier publication of his brother, +from which his own memoir is in great part manifestly +derived.</p> +<blockquote>(*Footnote. Quaestio Medica an Hominis primordia +Vermis? in auctoris Tractatu de Materia Medica tome 1 page +123.)</blockquote> +<blockquote>(**Footnote. Mem. de l'Acad. des Sc. de Paris 1711 +page 210.)</blockquote> +<p>In 1718; Vaillant,* who rejects the vermicular hypothesis of +generation, supposes the influence of the Pollen to consist in an +aura, conveyed by the tracheae of the style to the ovula, which +it enters, if I rightly understand him, by the funiculus +umbilicalis: at the same time he seems to admit the existence of +the aperture in the coat.</p> +<blockquote>(*Footnote. Discours sur la Structure des Fleurs page +20.)</blockquote> +<p>In 1745, Needham,* and in 1770, Gleichen,** adopt the +hypothesis of Morland, somewhat modified, however, as they +consider the particles in the grains of Pollen, not the grains +themselves, to be the embryos, and that they enter the ovula by +the umbilical cord.</p> +<blockquote>(*Footnote. New Microscopical Discoveries page +60.)</blockquote> +<blockquote>(**Footnote. Observ. Microscop. page 45 et 61 +paragraph 118.)</blockquote> +<p>Adanson, in 1763,* states the Embryo to exist before +fecundation, and that it receives its first excitement from a +vapour or aura proceeding from the Pollen, conveyed to it through +the tracheae of the style, and entering the Ovulum by the +umbilical cord.</p> +<blockquote>(*Footnote. Fam. des Plant. tom. 1 page +121.)</blockquote> +<p>Spallanzani,* who appears to have carefully examined the +unimpregnated Ovula of a considerable variety of plants, found it +in general to be a homogeneous, spongy, or gelatinous body; but +in two Cucurbitaceae to consist of a nucleus surrounded by three +coats. Of these coats he rightly supposes the outermost to be +merely the epidermis of the middle membrane or testa. Of the +relative direction of the testa and inner coat in the two plants +in question he takes no notice, nor does he in any case mention +an aperture in the Ovulum.</p> +<blockquote>(*Footnote. Fisica Anim. e Veget. tome 3 page 309 to +332.)</blockquote> +<p>Gaertner, who, in the preface to his celebrated work, displays +great erudition in every branch of his subject, can hardly, +however, be considered an original observer in this part. He +describes the unimpregnated Ovulum as a pulpy homogeneous +globule, whose epidermis, then scarcely distinguishable, +separates in a more advanced stage, and becomes the testa of the +seed, the inner membrane of which is entirely the product of +fecundation.* He asserts also that the Embryo constantly appears +at that point of the ovulum where the ultimate branches of the +umbilical vessels perforate the inner membrane; and therefore +mistakes the apex for the base of the nucleus.</p> +<blockquote>(*Footnote. Gaert. de Fruct. et Sem. 1 page 57, 59 et +61.)</blockquote> +<p>In 1806 Mons. Turpin* published a memoir on the organ, by +which the fecundating fluid is introduced into the vegetable +ovulum. The substance of this memoir is, that in all Phaenogamous +plants fecundation takes place through a cord or fasciculus of +vessels entering the outer coat of the ovulum, at a point +distinct from, but at the period of impregnation closely +approximated to the umbilicus, and to the cicatrix of this cord, +which itself is soon obliterated, he gives the name of Micropyle: +that the ovulum has two coats, each having its proper umbilicus, +or, as he terms it, omphalode; that these coats in general +correspond in direction; that more rarely the inner membrane is, +with relation to the outer, inverted; and that towards the origin +of the inner membrane the radicle of the embryo uniformly +points.</p> +<blockquote>(*Footnote. Annal. du Mus. d'Hist. Nat. 7 page +199.)</blockquote> +<p>It is singular that a botanist, so ingenious and experienced +as M. Turpin, should, on this subject, instead of appealing in +every case to the unimpregnated ovulum, have apparently contented +himself with an examination of the ripe seed. Hence, however, he +has formed an erroneous opinion of the nature and origin, and in +some plants of the situation, of the micropyle itself, and hence +also he has in all cases mistaken the apex for the base of the +nucleus.</p> +<p>A minute examination of the early state of the ovulum does not +seem to have entered into the plan of the late celebrated M. +Richard, when in 1808 he published his valuable and original +Analyse du Fruit. The ovulum has, according to him, but one +covering, which in the ripe seed he calls episperm. He considers +the centre of the hilum as the base, and the chalaza, where it +exists, as the natural apex of the seed.</p> +<p>M. Mirbel, in 1815, though admitting the existence of the +foramen or micropyle of the testa,* describes the ovulum as +receiving by the hilum both nourishing and fecundating vessels,** +and as consisting of a uniform parenchyma, in which the embryo +appears at first a minute point, gradually converting more or +less of the surrounding tissue into its own substance; the coats +and albumen of the seed being formed of that portion which +remains.***</p> +<blockquote>(*Footnote. Elem. de Physiol. Veg. et de Bot. tome 1 +page 49.)</blockquote> +<blockquote>(**Footnote. Id. tome 1 page 314.)</blockquote> +<blockquote>(***Footnote. Id. loc. cit.)</blockquote> +<p>In the same year, M. Auguste de Saint Hilaire,* shows that the +micropyle is not always approximated to the umbilicus; that in +some plants it is situated at the opposite extremity of the +ovulum, and that in all cases it corresponds with the radicle of +the embryo. This excellent botanist, at the same time, adopts M. +Turpin's opinion, that the micropyle is the cicatrix of a +vascular cord, and even gives instances of its connexion with the +parietes of the ovarium; mistaking, as I believe, contact, which +in some plants unquestionably takes place, and in one family, +namely, Plumbagineae, in a very remarkable manner, but only after +a certain period, for original cohesion, or organic connexion, +which I have not met with in any case.</p> +<blockquote>(*Footnote. Mem. du Mus. d'Hist. Nat. 2 page 270 et +seq.)</blockquote> +<p>In 1815 also appeared the masterly dissertation of Professor +Ludolf Christian Treviranus, on the development of the vegetable +embryo,* in which he describes the ovulum before fecundation as +having two coats: but of these, his inner coat is evidently the +middle membrane of Grew, the chorion of Malpighi, or what I have +termed nucleus.</p> +<blockquote>(*Footnote. Entwick. des Embryo im +Pflanzen-Ey.)</blockquote> +<p>In 1822, Mons. Dutrochet, unacquainted, as it would seem, with +the dissertation of Professor Treviranus, published his +observations on the same subject.* In what regards the structure +of the ovulum, he essentially agrees with that author, and has +equally overlooked the inner membrane.</p> +<blockquote>(*Footnote. Mem. du Mus. d'Hist. Nat. tome 8 page 241 +et seq.)</blockquote> +<p>It is remarkable that neither of these observers should have +noticed the foramen in the testa. And as they do not even mention +the well-known essays of MM. Turpin and Auguste de St. Hilaire on +the micropyle, it may be presumed that they were not disposed to +adopt the statements of these authors respecting it.</p> +<p>Professor Link, in his Philosophia Botanica, published in +1824, adopts the account given by Treviranus, of the coats of the +ovulum before impregnation:* and of M. Turpin, as to the +situation of the micropyle, and its being the cicatrix of a +vascular cord. Yet he seems not to admit the function ascribed to +it, and asserts that it is in many cases wanting.**</p> +<blockquote>(*Footnote. Elem. Philos. Bot. page +338.)</blockquote> +<blockquote>(**Footnote. Id. page 340.)</blockquote> +<p>The account which I have given of the structure of the +vegetable ovulum, differs essentially from all those now quoted, +and I am not acquainted with any other observations of importance +respecting it.</p> +<p>Of the authors referred to, it may be remarked, that those who +have most particularly attended to the ovulum externally, have +not always examined it at a sufficiently early period, and have +confined themselves to its surface: that those who have most +minutely examined its internal structure, have trusted too much +to sections merely, and have neglected its appearance externally: +and that those who have not at all examined it in the early +stage, have given the most correct account of its surface. This +account was founded on a very limited observation of ripe seeds, +generalized and extended to the unimpregnated ovulum, in +connexion with an hypothesis then very commonly received: but +this hypothesis being soon after abandoned, their statement +respecting the ovulum was rejected along with it.</p> +<p>In the ovulum of Kingia, the inner membrane, with relation to +the external umbilicus, is inverted; and this, as I have already +observed, though in direct opposition to M. Turpin's account, is +the usual structure of the organ. There are, however, several +families in each of the two primary divisions of phaenogamous +plants, in which the inner membrane, and consequently the +nucleus, agrees in direction with the testa. In such cases the +external umbilicus alone affords a certain indication of the +position of the future embryo.</p> +<p>It is an obvious consequence of what has been already stated, +that the radicle of the embryo can never point directly to the +external umbilicus or hilum, though this is said to be generally +the case by the most celebrated carpologists.</p> +<p>Another observation may be made, less obviously a consequence +of the structure described, but equally at variance with many of +the published accounts and figures of seeds, namely, that the +radicle is never absolutely enclosed in the albumen; but, in the +recent state, is either immediately in contact with the inner +membrane of the seed, or this contact is established by means of +a process generally very short, but sometimes of great length, +and which indeed in all cases may be regarded as an elongation of +its own substance. From this rule I have found one apparent +deviation, but in a case altogether so peculiar, that it can +hardly be considered as setting it aside.</p> +<p>It is necessary to observe, that I am acquainted with +exceptions to the structure of the ovulum as I have here +described it, In Compositae its coats seem to be imperforated, +and hardly separable, either from each other or from the nucleus, +in this family, therefore, the direction of the embryo can only +be judged of from the vessels of the testa.* And in Lemna I have +found an apparent inversion of the embryo with relation to the +apex of the nucleus. In this genus, however, such other +peculiarities of structure and economy exist, that, paradoxical +as the assertion may seem, I consider the exception rather as +confirming than lessening the importance of the character.</p> +<blockquote>(*Footnote. Linnean Society Transactions 12 page +136.)</blockquote> +<p>It may perhaps be unnecessary to remark, that the raphe, or +vascular cord of the outer coat, almost universally belongs to +that side of the ovulum which is next the placenta. But it is at +least deserving of notice, that the very few apparent exceptions +to this rule evidently tend to confirm it. The most remarkable of +these exceptions occur in those species of Euonymus, which, +contrary to the usual structure of the genus and family they +belong to, have pendulous ovula; and, as I have long since +noticed, in the perfect ovula only of Abelia.* In these, and in +the other cases in which the raphe is on the outer side, or that +most remote from the placenta, the ovula are in reality +resupinate; an economy apparently essential to their +development.</p> +<blockquote>(*Footnote. Abel's China page 377.)</blockquote> +<p>The distinct origins and different directions of the +nourishing vessels and channel through which fecundation took +place in the ovulum, may still be seen in many of those ripe +seeds that are winged, and either present their margins to the +placenta, as in Proteaceae, or have the plane of the wing at +right angles to it, as in several Liliaceae. These organs are +visible also in some of those seeds that have their testa +produced at both ends beyond the inner membrane, as Nepenthes; a +structure which proves the outer coat of scobiform seeds, as they +are called, to be really testa, and not arillus, as it has often +been termed.</p> +<p>The importance of distinguishing between the membranes of the +unimpregnated ovulum and those of the ripe seed, must be +sufficiently evident from what has been already stated. But this +distinction has been necessarily neglected by two classes of +observers. The first consisting of those, among whom are several +of the most eminent carpologists, who have regarded the coats of +the seed as products of fecundation. The second of those authors +who, professing to give an account of the ovulum itself, have +made their observations chiefly, or entirely, on the ripe seed, +the coats of which they must consequently have supposed to be +formed before impregnation.</p> +<p>The consideration of the arillus, which is of rare occurrence, +is never complete, and whose development takes place chiefly +after fecundation, might here, perhaps, be entirely omitted. It +is, however, worthy of remark, that in the early stage of the +ovulum, this envelope is in general hardly visible even in those +cases where, as in Hibbertia volubilis, it attains the greatest +size in the ripe seed; nor does it in any case, with which I am +acquainted, cover the foramen of the testa until after +fecundation.</p> +<p>The testa, or outer coat of the seed, is very generally formed +by the outer membrane of the ovulum; and in most cases where the +nucleus is inverted, which is the more usual structure, its +origin may be satisfactorily determined; either by the hilum +being more or less lateral, while the foramen is terminal; or +more obviously, and with greater certainty where the raphe is +visible, this vascular cord uniformly belonging to the outer +membrane of the ovulum. The chalaza, properly so called, though +merely the termination of the raphe, affords a less certain +character, for in many plants it is hardly visible on the inner +surface of the testa, but is intimately united with the areola of +insertion of the inner membrane or of the nucleus, to one or +other of which it then seems entirely to belong. In those cases +where the testa agrees in direction with the nucleus, I am not +acquainted with any character by which it can be absolutely +distinguished from the inner membrane in the ripe seed; but as a +few plants are already known, in which the outer membrane is +originally incomplete, its entire absence, even before +fecundation, is conceivable; and some possible cases of such a +structure will be mentioned hereafter.</p> +<p>There are several cases known, some of which I have formerly +noticed,* of the complete obliteration of the testa in the ripe +seed; and on the other hand it appears to constitute the greater +part of the substance of the bulb-like seeds of many Liliaceae, +where it no doubt performs also the function of albumen, from +which, however, it is readily distinguished by its vascularity.** +But the most remarkable deviation from the usual structure and +economy of the outer membrane of the ovulum, both in its earliest +stage and in the ripe fruit, that I have yet met with, occurs in +Banksia and Dryandra. In these two genera I have ascertained that +the inner membrane of the ovulum, before fecundation, is entirely +exposed, the outer membrane being even then open its whole +length; and that the outer membranes of the two collateral ovula, +which are originally distinct, cohere in a more advanced stage by +their corresponding surfaces, and together constitute the +anomalous dissepiment of the capsule; the inner membrane of the +ovulum consequently forming the outer coat of the seed.</p> +<blockquote>(*Footnote. Linnean Society Transactions 12 page +149.)</blockquote> +<blockquote>(**Footnote. Ibid.)</blockquote> +<p>The inner membrane of the ovulum, however, in general appears +to be of greater importance as connected with fecundation, than +as affording protection to the nucleus at a more advanced period. +For in many cases, before impregnation, its perforated apex +projects beyond the aperture of the testa, and in some plants +puts on the appearance of an obtuse, or even dilated stigma; +while in the ripe seed it is often either entirely obliterated, +or exists only as a thin film, which might readily be mistaken +for the epidermis of a third membrane then frequently +observable.</p> +<p>This third coat is formed by the proper membrane or cuticle of +the Nucleus, from whose substance in the unimpregnated ovulum it +is never, I believe, separable, and at that period is very rarely +visible. In the ripe seed it is indistinguishable from the inner +membrane only by its apex, which is never perforated, is +generally acute and more deeply coloured, or even +sphacelated.</p> +<p>The membrane of the nucleus usually constitutes the innermost +coat of the seed. But in a few plants an additional coat, +apparently originating in the inner membrane of Grew, the +vesicula colliquamenti or amnios of Malpighi also exists.</p> +<p>In general the Amnios, after fecundation, gradually enlarges, +till at length it displaces or absorbs the whole substance of the +nucleus, containing in the ripe seed both the embryo and albumen, +where the latter continues to exist. In such cases, however, its +proper membrane is commonly obliterated, and its place supplied +either by that of the nucleus, by the inner membrane of the +ovulum, or, where both these are evanescent, by the testa +itself.</p> +<p>In other cases the albumen is formed by a deposition of +granular matter in the cells of the nucleus. In some of these +cases the membrane of the amnios seems to be persistent, forming +even in the ripe seed a proper coat for the embryo, the original +attachment of whose radicle to the apex of this coat may also +continue. This, at least, seems to me the most probable +explanation of the structure of true Nymphaeaceae, namely, +Nuphar, Nymphaea, Euryale, Hydropeltis, and Cabomba, +notwithstanding their very remarkable germination, as observed +and figured in Nymphaea and Nuphar by Tittmann.*</p> +<blockquote>(*Footnote. Keimung der Pflanzen page 19 et 27 table +3 et 4.)</blockquote> +<p>In support of this explanation, which differs from all those +yet given, I may here advert to an observation published many +years ago, though it seems to have escaped every author who has +since written on the subject, namely, that before the maturity of +the seed in Nymphaeaceae, the sacculus contains along with the +embryo a (pulpy or semi-fluid) substance, which I then called +Vitellus, applying at that time this name to every body +interposed between the albumen and embryo.* The opinion receives +some confirmation also from the existence of an extremely fine +filament, hitherto overlooked, which, originating from the centre +of the lower surface of the sacculus, and passing through the +hollow axis of the Albumen, probably connects this coat of the +Embryo in an early stage with the base of the nucleus.</p> +<blockquote>(*Footnote. Prodr. Flor. Nov. Holl. 1 page +306.)</blockquote> +<p>The same explanation of structure applies to the seeds of +Piperaceae and Saururus; and other instances occur of the +persistence either of the membrane or of the substance of the +amnios in the ripe seed.</p> +<p>It may be concluded from the whole account which I have given +of the structure of the ovulum, that the more important changes +consequent to real, or even to spurious fecundation, must take +place within the nucleus: and that the albumen, properly so +called, may be formed either by a deposition or secretion of +granular matter in the utriculi of the amnios, or in those of the +nucleus itself, or lastly, that two substances having these +distinct origins, and very different textures, may co-exist in +the ripe seed, as is probably the case in Scitamineae.</p> +<p>On the subject of the ovulum, as contained in an ovarium, I +shall at present make but one other remark, which forms a +necessary introduction to the observations that follow.</p> +<p>ON THE STRUCTURE OF THE FEMALE FLOWER IN CYCADEAE AND +CONIFERAE.</p> +<p>That the apex of the nucleus is the point of the ovulum where +impregnation takes place, is at least highly probable, both from +the constancy in the appearance of the embryo at that point, and +from the very general inversion of the nucleus; for by this +inversion its apex is brought nearly, or absolutely, into contact +with that part of the parietes of the ovarium, by which the +influence of the pollen may be supposed to be communicated. In +several of those families of plants, however, in which the +nucleus is not inverted, and the placentae are polyspermous, as +Cistineae,* it is difficult to comprehend in what manner this +influence can reach its apex externally, except on the +supposition, not hastily to be admitted, of an impregnating aura +filling the cavity of the ovarium; or by the complete separation +of the fecundating tubes from the placentae, which, however, in +such cases I have never been able to detect.</p> +<blockquote>(*Footnote. This structure of ovulum, indicated by +that of the seed, as characterizing and defining the limits of +Cistineae (namely, Cistus, Helianthemum, Hudsonia and Lechea) I +communicated to Dr. Hooker, by whom it is noticed in his Flora +Scotica (page 284) published in 1821; where, however, an +observation is added respecting Gaertner's description of Cistus +and Helianthemum, for which I am not accountable.)</blockquote> +<p>It would entirely remove the doubts that may exist respecting +the point of impregnation, if cases could be produced where the +ovarium was either altogether wanting, or so imperfectly formed, +that the ovulum itself became directly exposed to the action of +the pollen, or its fovilla; its apex, as well as the orifice of +its immediate covering, being modified and developed to adapt +them to this economy.</p> +<p>But such, I believe, is the real explanation of the structure +of Cycadeae, of Coniferae, of Ephedra, and even of Gnetum, of +which Thoa of Aublet is a species.</p> +<p>To this view the most formidable objection would be removed, +were it admitted, in conformity with the preceding observations, +that the apex of the nucleus, or supposed point of impregnation, +has no organic connexion with the parietes of the ovarium. In +support of it, also, as far as regards the direct action of the +pollen on the ovulum, numerous instances of analogous economy in +the animal kingdom may be adduced.</p> +<p>The similarity of the female flower in Cycadeae and Coniferae +to the ovulum of other phaenogamous plants, as I have described +it, is indeed sufficiently obvious to render the opinion here +advanced not altogether improbable. But the proof of its +correctness must chiefly rest on a resemblance, in every +essential point, being established, between the inner body in the +supposed female flower in these tribes, and the nucleus of the +ovulum in ordinary structures; not only in the early stage, but +also in the whole series of changes consequent to fecundation. +Now as far as I have yet examined, there is nearly a complete +agreement in all these respects. I am not entirely satisfied, +however, with the observations I have hitherto been able to make +on a subject naturally difficult, and to which I have not till +lately attended with my present view.</p> +<p>The facts most likely to be produced as arguments against this +view of the structure of Coniferae, are the unequal and +apparently secreting surface of the apex of the supposed nucleus +in most cases; its occasional projection beyond the orifice of +the outer coat; its cohesion with that coat by a considerable +portion of its surface, and the not unfrequent division of the +orifice of the coat. Yet most of these peculiarities of structure +might perhaps be adduced in support of the opinion advanced, +being apparent adaptations to the supposed economy.</p> +<p>There is one fact that will hardly be brought forward as an +objection, and which yet seems to me to present a difficulty, to +this opinion; namely, the greater simplicity in Cycadeae, and in +the principal part of Coniferae, of the supposed ovulum which +consists of a nucleus and one coat only, compared with the organ +as generally existing when enclosed in an ovarium. The want of +uniformity in this respect may even be stated as another +difficulty, for in some genera of Coniferae the ovulum appears to +be complete.</p> +<p>In Ephedra, indeed, where the nucleus is provided with two +envelopes, the outer may, perhaps, be supposed rather analogous +to the calyx, or involucrum of the male flower, than as belonging +to the ovulum; but in Gnetum, where three envelopes exist, two of +these may, with great probability, be regarded as coats of the +nucleus; while in Podocarpus and Dacrydium, the outer cupula, as +I formerly termed it,* may also, perhaps, be viewed as the testa +of the ovulum. To this view, as far as relates to Dacrydium, the +longitudinal fissure of the outer coat in the early stage, and +its state in the ripe fruit, in which it forms only a partial +covering, may be objected.** But these objections are, in a great +measure, removed by the analogous structure already described in +Banksia and Dryandra.</p> +<blockquote>(*Footnote. Flinders Voyage volume 2 page +573.)</blockquote> +<blockquote>(**Footnote. Id. loc. cit.)</blockquote> +<p>The plurality of embryos sometimes occurring in Coniferae, and +which, in Cycadeae, seems even to be the natural structure, may +also, perhaps, be supposed to form an objection to the present +opinion, though to me it appears rather an argument in its +favour.</p> +<p>Upon the whole, the objections to which the view here taken of +the structure of these two families is still liable, seem to me, +as far as I am aware of them, much less important than those that +may be brought against the other opinions that have been +advanced, and still divide botanists on this subject.</p> +<p>According to the earliest of these opinions, the female flower +of Cycadeae and Coniferae is a monospermous pistillum, having no +proper floral envelope.</p> +<p>To this structure, however, Pinus itself was long considered +by many botanists as presenting an exception.</p> +<p>Linnaeus has expressed himself so obscurely in the natural +character which he has given of this genus, that I find it +difficult to determine what his opinion of its structure really +was. I am inclined, however, to believe it to have been much +nearer the truth than is generally supposed; judging of it from a +comparison of his essential with his artificial generic +character, and from an observation recorded in his Praelectiones, +published by Giseke.*</p> +<blockquote>(*Footnote. Praelect. in Ord. Nat. page +589.)</blockquote> +But the first clear account that I have met with, of the real +structure of Pinus, as far as regards the direction, or base and +apex of the female flowers, is given, in 1767, by Trew, who +describes them in the following manner: "Singula semina vel +potius germina stigmati tanquam organo feminino gaudent,"* and +his figure of the female flower of the Larch, in which the +stigmata project beyond the base of the scale, removes all doubt +respecting his meaning. +<blockquote>(*Footnote. Nov. Act. Acad. Nat. Curios. 3 page 453 +table 13 figure 23.)</blockquote> +<p>In 1789, M. de Jussieu, in the character of his genus Abies,* +gives a similar account of structure, though somewhat less +clearly as well as less decidedly expressed. In the observations +that follow, he suggests, as not improbable, a very different +view, founded on the supposed analogy with Araucaria, whose +structure was then misunderstood; namely, that the inner scale of +the female amentum is a bilocular ovarium, of which the outer +scale is the style. But this, according to Sir James Smith,** was +also Linnaeus' opinion; and it is the view adopted in Mr. +Lambert's splendid monograph of the genus published in 1803.</p> +<blockquote>(*Footnote. Gen. Pl. page 414.)</blockquote> +<blockquote>(**Footnote. Rees Cyclop. art. Pinus.)</blockquote> +<p>In the same year in which Mr. Lambert's work appeared, +Schkuhr* describes, and very distinctly figures, the female +flower of Pinus, exactly as it was understood by Trew, whose +opinion was probably unknown to him.</p> +<blockquote>(*Footnote. Botan. Handb. 3 page 276 table +308.)</blockquote> +<p>In 1807, a memoir on this subject, by Mr. Salisbury, was +published,* in which an account of structure is given, in no +important particular different from that of Trew and Schkuhr, +with whose observations he appears to have been unacquainted.</p> +<blockquote>(*Footnote. Linnean Society Transactions 8 page +308.)</blockquote> +<p>M. Mirbel, in 1809,* held the same opinion, both with respect +to Pinus and to the whole natural family. But in 1812, in +conjunction with M. Schoubert,** he proposed a very different +view of the structure of Cycadeae and Coniferae, stating, that in +their female flowers there is not only a minute cohering +perianthium present, but an external additional envelope, to +which he has given the name of cupula.</p> +<blockquote>(*Footnote. Ann. du Mus. d'Hist. Nat. tome 15 page +473.)</blockquote> +<blockquote>(**Footnote. Nouv. Bulletin des Sc. tome 3 pages 73, +85 et 121.)</blockquote> +<p>In 1814 I adopted this view, as far, at least, as regards the +manner of impregnation, and stated some facts in support of it.* +But on reconsidering the subject, in connexion with what I had +ascertained respecting the vegetable ovulum, I soon after +altogether abandoned this opinion, without, however, venturing +explicitly to state that now advanced, and which had then +suggested itself.**</p> +<blockquote>(*Footnote. Flinders Voyage 2 572.)</blockquote> +<blockquote>(**Footnote. Tuckey Congo page 454 et Linnean Society +Transactions volume 13 page 213.)</blockquote> +<p>It is well known that the late M. Richard had prepared a very +valuable memoir on these two families of plants; and he appears, +from some observations lately published by his son, M. Achille +Richard,* to have formed an opinion respecting their structure +somewhat different from that of M. Mirbel, whose cupula is, +according to him, the perianthium, more or less cohering with the +included pistillum. He was probably led to this view, on +ascertaining, which I had also done, that the common account of +the structure of Ephedra was incorrect,** its supposed style +being in reality the elongated tubular apex of a membranous +envelope, and the included body being evidently analogous to that +in other genera of Coniferae.</p> +<blockquote>(*Footnote. Dict. Class. d' Hist. Nat. tome 4 page +395 et tome 5 page 216.)</blockquote> +<blockquote>(**Footnote. Dict. Class. d'Hist. Nat. tome 6 page +208.)</blockquote> +<p>To the earliest of the opinions here quoted, that which +considers the female flower of Coniferae and Cycadeae as a naked +pistillum, there are two principal objections. The first of these +arises from the perforation of the pistillum, and the exposure of +that point of the ovulum where the embryo is formed to the direct +action of the pollen; the second from the too great simplicity of +structure of the supposed ovulum, which, I have shown, accords +better with that of the nucleus as existing in ordinary +cases.</p> +<p>To the opinions of MM. Richard and Mirbel, the first objection +does not apply, but the second acquires such additional weight, +as to render those opinions much less probable, it seems to me, +than that which I have endeavoured to support.</p> +<p>In supposing the correctness of this opinion to be admitted, a +question connected with it, and of some importance, would still +remain, namely, whether in Cycadeae and Coniferae the ovula are +produced on an ovarium of reduced functions and altered +appearance, or on a rachis or receptacle. In other words, in +employing the language of an hypothesis, which, with some +alterations, I have elsewhere attempted to explain and defend, +respecting the formation of the sexual organs in Phaenogamous +plants,* whether the ovula in these two families originate in a +modified leaf, or proceed directly from the stem.</p> +<blockquote>(*Footnote. Linnean Society Transactions volume 13 +page 211.)</blockquote> +<p>Were I to adopt the former supposition, or that best agreeing +with the hypothesis in question, I should certainly apply it, in +the first place, to Cycas, in which the female spadix bears so +striking a resemblance to a partially altered frond or leaf, +producing marginal ovula in one part, and in another being +divided into segments, in some cases nearly resembling those of +the ordinary frond.</p> +<p>But the analogy of the female spadix of Cycas to that of Zamia +is sufficiently obvious; and from the spadix of Zamia to the +fruit-bearing squama of Coniferae, strictly so called, namely, of +Agathis or Dammara, Cunninghamia, Pinus, and even Araucaria, the +transition is not difficult. This view is applicable, though less +manifestly, also to Cupressinae; and might even be extended to +Podocarpus and Dacrydium. But the structure of these two genera +admits likewise of another explanation, to which I have already +adverted.</p> +<p>If, however, the ovula in Cycadeae and Coniferae be really +produced on the surface of an ovarium, it might, perhaps, though +not necessarily, be expected that their male flowers should +differ from those of all other phaenogamous plants, and in this +difference exhibit some analogy to the structure of the female +flower. But in Cycadeae, at least, and especially in Zamia, the +resemblance between the male and female spadices is so great, +that if the female be analogous to an ovarium, the partial male +spadix must be considered as a single anthera, producing on its +surface either naked grains of pollen, or pollen subdivided into +masses, each furnished with its proper membrane.</p> +<p>Both these views may at present, perhaps, appear equally +paradoxical; yet the former was entertained by Linnaeus, who +expresses himself on the subject in the following terms, Pulvis +floridus in Cycade minime pro Antheris agnoscendus est sed pro +nudo polline, quod unusquisque qui unquam pollen antherarum in +plantis examinavit fatebitur.* That this opinion, so confidently +held by Linnaeus, was never adopted by any other botanist, seems +in part to have arisen from his having extended it to dorsiferous +Ferns. Limited to Cycadeae, however, it does not appear to me so +very improbable, as to deserve to be rejected without +examination. It receives, at least, some support from the +separation, in several cases, especially in the American Zamiae, +of the grains into two distinct, and sometimes nearly marginal, +masses, representing, as it may be supposed, the lobes of an +anthera; and also from their approximation in definite numbers, +generally in fours, analogous to the quaternary union of the +grains of pollen, not unfrequent in the antherae of several other +families of plants. The great size of the supposed grains of +pollen, with the thickening and regular bursting of their +membrane, may be said to be circumstances obviously connected +with their production and persistence on the surface of an +anthera, distant from the female flower; and with this economy, a +corresponding enlargement of the contained particles or fovilla +might also be expected. On examining these particles, however, I +find them not only equal in size to the grains of pollen of many +antherae, but, being elliptical and marked on one side with a +longitudinal furrow, they have that form which is one of the most +common in the simple pollen of phaenogamous plants. To suppose, +therefore, merely on the grounds already stated, that these +particles are analogous to the fovilla, and the containing organs +to the grains of pollen in antherae of the usual structure, would +be entirely gratuitous. It is, at the same time, deserving of +remark, that were this view adopted on more satisfactory grounds, +a corresponding development might then be said to exist in the +essential parts of the male and female organs. The increased +development in the ovulum would not consist so much in the +unusual form and thickening of the coat, a part of secondary +importance, and whose nature is disputed, as in the state of the +nucleus of the seed, respecting which there is no difference of +opinion; and where the plurality of embryos, or at least the +existence and regular arrangement of the cells in which they are +formed, is the uniform structure in the family.</p> +<blockquote>(*Footnote. Mem. de l'Acad. des Scien. de Paris 1775 +page 518.)</blockquote> +<p>The second view suggested, in which the anthera in Cycadeae is +considered as producing on its surface an indefinite number of +pollen masses, each enclosed in its proper membrane, would derive +its only support from a few remote analogies: as from those +antherae, whose loculi are sub-divided into a definite, or more +rarely an indefinite, number of cells, and especially from the +structure of the stamina of Viscum album.</p> +<p>I may remark, that the opinion of M. Richard,* who considers +these grains, or masses, as unilocular antherae, each of which +constitutes a male flower, seems to be attended with nearly equal +difficulties.</p> +<blockquote>(*Footnote. Dict. Class. d'Hist. Nat. tome 5 page +216.)</blockquote> +<p>The analogy between the male and female organs in Coniferae, +the existence of an open ovarium being assumed, is at first sight +more apparent than in Cycadeae. In Coniferae, however, the pollen +is certainly not naked, but is enclosed in a membrane similar to +the lobe of an ordinary anthera. And in those genera in which +each squama of the amentum produces two marginal lobes only, as +Pinus, Podocarpus, Dacrydium, Salisburia, and Phyllocladus, it +nearly resembles the more general form of the antherae in other +Phaenogamous plants. But the difficulty occurs in those genera +which have an increased number of lobes on each squama, as +Agathis and Araucaria, where their number is considerable and +apparently indefinite, and more particularly still in +Cunninghamia, or Belis,* in which the lobes, though only three in +number, agree in this respect, as well as in insertion and +direction, with the ovula. The supposition, that in such cases +all the lobes of each squama are cells of one and the same +anthera, receives but little support either from the origin and +arrangement of the lobes themselves, or from the structure of +other phaenogamous plants: the only cases of apparent, though +doubtful, analogy that I can at present recollect occurring in +Aphyteia, and perhaps in some Cucurbitaceae.</p> +<blockquote>(*Footnote. In communicating specimens of this plant +to the late M. Richard, for his intended monograph of Coniferae, +I added some remarks on its structure, agreeing with those here +made. I at the same time requested that, if he objected to Mr. +Salisbury's Belis as liable to be confounded with Bellis, the +genus might be named Cunninghamia, to commemorate the merits of +Mr. James Cunningham, an excellent observer in his time, by whom +this plant was discovered; and in honour of Mr. Allan Cunningham, +the very deserving botanist who accompanied Mr. Oxley in his +first expedition into the interior of New South Wales, and +Captain King in all his voyages of survey of the Coasts of New +Holland.)</blockquote> +<p>That part of my subject, therefore, which relates to the +analogy between the male and female flowers in Cycadeae and +Coniferae, I consider the least satisfactory, both in regard to +the immediate question of the existence of an anomalous ovarium +in these families, and to the hypothesis repeatedly referred to, +of the origin of the sexual organs of all phaenogamous +plants.</p> +<p>In concluding this digression, I have to express my regret +that it should have so far exceeded the limits proper for its +introduction into the present work. In giving an account, +however, of the genus of plants to which it is annexed, I had to +describe a structure, of whose nature and importance it was +necessary I should show myself aware; and circumstances have +occurred while I was engaged in preparing this account, which +determined me to enter much more fully into the subject than I +had originally intended.</p> +<hr align="center" width="20%"> +<p><a name="appendixC"></a></p> +<h3>APPENDIX C.</h3> +<p align="center">AN ACCOUNT OF SOME GEOLOGICAL SPECIMENS, +COLLECTED BY CAPTAIN P.P. KING, IN HIS SURVEY OF THE COASTS OF +AUSTRALIA, AND BY ROBERT BROWN, ESQUIRE, ON THE SHORES OF THE +GULF OF CARPENTARIA, DURING THE VOYAGE OF CAPTAIN FLINDERS.</p> +<p align="center">BY WILLIAM HENRY FITTON, M.D., F.R.S., +V.P.G.S.</p> +<p>[READ BEFORE THE GEOLOGICAL SOCIETY OF LONDON, 4TH NOVEMBER, +1825.]</p> +<p>The following enumeration of specimens from the coasts of +Australia, commences, with the survey of Captain King, on the +eastern shore, about the latitude of twenty-two degrees, +proceeding northward and westward: and as the shores of the Gulf +of Carpentaria, previously surveyed by Captain Flinders, were +passed over by Captain King, Mr. Brown, who accompanied the +former, has been so good as to allow the specimens collected by +himself in that part of New Holland, to supply the chasm which +would otherwise have existed in the series. Part of the west and +north-western coast, examined by Captain King, having been +previously visited by the French voyagers, under Captain Baudin, +I was desirous of obtaining such information as could be derived +from the specimens collected during that expedition, and now +remaining at Paris; although I was aware that the premature death +of the principal mineralogist, and other unfavourable +circumstances, had probably diminished their value:* But the +collection from New Holland, at the school of Mines, with a list +of which I have been favoured through the kindness of Mr. +Brochant de Villiers, relates principally to Van Diemen's Land; +and that of the Jardin du Roi, which Mr. Constant Prevost has +obliged me with an account of, does not afford the information I +had hoped for. I have availed myself of the notices relating to +Physical Geography and Geology, which are dispersed through the +published accounts of Captain Flinders',** and Baudin's +Voyages;*** and these, with the collections above alluded to, +form, I believe, the only sources of information at present +existing in Europe, respecting the geological structure and +productions of the north and western coasts of Australia.</p> +<blockquote>(*Footnote. M. Depuch, the mineralogist, died during +the progress of the voyage, in 1803; and, unfortunately, none of +his manuscripts were preserved. M. Peron, the zoologist, after +publishing, in 1807, the first volume of the account of the +expedition, died in 1810, before the appearance of the second +volume. Voyage etc. 1 page 417, 418; and 2 page +163.)</blockquote> +<blockquote>(**Footnote. A Voyage to Terra Australis, etc., in +the years 1801, 1802, and 1803, by Matthew Flinders, Commander of +the Investigator. Two volumes quarto with an atlas folio; London +1814.)</blockquote> +<blockquote>(***Footnote. Voyage de Decouverte aux Terres +Australes etc. Tome 1 redige par M. F. Peron, naturaliste de +l'Expedition, Paris 1807. Tome 2 redige par M. Peron et M. L. +Freycinet 1816. A third volume of this work, under the title of +Navigation et Geographie, was published by Capt. Freycinet in +1815. It contains a brief and clear account of the proceedings of +the expedition; and affords some particulars connected with the +physical geography of the places described, which are not to be +found in the other volumes.)</blockquote> +<p>In order to avoid the interruption which would be occasioned +by detail, I shall prefix to the list of specimens in Captain +King's and Mr. Brown's collections, a general sketch of the coast +from whence they come, deduced, principally, from the large +charts,* and from the narratives of Captains Flinders and King, +with a summary of the geological information derived from the +specimens. But I have thought it necessary to subjoin a more +detailed list of the specimens themselves; on account of the +great distance from each other of many of the places where they +were found, and of the general interest attached to the +productions of a country so very remote, of which the greater +part is not likely to be often visited by geologists. The +situation of such of the places mentioned, as are not to be found +in the reduced chart annexed to the present publication, will be +sufficiently indicated by the names of the adjacent places.</p> +<blockquote>(*Footnote. These charts have been published by the +Admiralty for general sale.)</blockquote> +<p align="center">GENERAL SKETCH OF THE COAST.</p> +<p>The North-eastern coast of New South Wales, from the latitude +of about 28 degrees, has a direction from south-east to +north-west; and ranges of mountains are visible from the sea, +with little interruption, as far north as Cape Weymouth, between +the latitude of 12 and 13 degrees. From within Cape Palmerston, +west of the Northumberland Islands, near the point where Captain +King began his surveys, a high and rocky range, of very irregular +outline, and apparently composed of primitive rocks, is continued +for more than one hundred and fifty miles, without any break; and +after a remarkable opening, about the latitude of 21 degrees, is +again resumed. Several of the summits, visible from the sea, in +the front of this range, are of considerable elevation: Mount +Dryander, on the promontory which terminates in Cape Gloucester, +being more than four thousand five hundred feet high. Mount +Eliot, with a peaked summit, a little to the south of Cape +Cleveland, is visible at twenty-five leagues distance; and Mount +Hinchinbrook, immediately upon the shore, south of Rockingham +Bay, is more than two thousand feet high. From the south of Cape +Grafton to Cape Tribulation, precipitous hills, bordered by low +land, form the coast; but the latter Cape itself consists of a +lofty group, with several peaks, the highest of which is visible +from the sea at twenty leagues. The heights from thence towards +the north decline gradually, as the mountainous ranges approach +the shore, which they join at Cape Weymouth, about latitude 12 +degrees; and from that point northward, to Cape York, the land in +general is comparatively low, nor do any detached points of +considerable elevation appear there. But about midway between +Cape Grenville and Cape York, on the mainland south-west of +Cairncross Island, a flat summit called Pudding-Pan Hill is +conspicuous; and its shape, which differs from that of the hills +on the east coast in general, remarkably resembles that of the +mountains of the north and west coasts, to which names expressing +their form have been applied.*</p> +<blockquote>(*Footnote. Jane's Table-Land, south-east of Princess +Charlotte's Bay (about latitude 14 degrees 30 minutes) and Mount +Adolphus, in one of the islands (a</blockquote> +bout latitude 10 degrees 40 minutes) off Cape York, have also +flat summits. King manuscripts.) +<p>The line of the coast above described retires at a point which +corresponds with the decline of its level; and immediately on the +north of Cape Melville is thrown back to the west; so that the +high land about that Cape stands out like a shoulder, more than +forty miles beyond the coastline between Princess Charlotte's Bay +and the north-eastern point of Australia.</p> +<p>The land near Cape York is not more than four or five hundred +feet high, and the islands off that point are nearly of the same +elevation.</p> +<p>The bottom of several of the bays, on the eastern coast, not +having been explored, it is still probable that rivers, or +considerable mountain streams, may exist there.</p> +<p>Along this eastern line of shore, granite has been found +throughout a space of nearly five hundred miles; at Cape +Cleveland; Cape Grafton; Endeavour River; Lizard Island; and at +Clack's Island, on the north-west of the rocky mass which forms +Cape Melville. And rocks of the trap formation have been obtained +in three detached points among the islands off the shore; in the +Percy Isles, about latitude 21 degrees 40 minutes; Sunday Island, +north of Cape Grenville, about latitude 12 degrees; and in Good's +Island, on the north-west of Cape York, latitude 10 degrees 34 +minutes.</p> +<p>The Gulf of Carpentaria having been fully examined by Captain +Flinders, was not visited by Captain King; but the following +account has been deduced from the voyage and charts of the +former, combined with the specimens collected by Mr. Brown, who +has also favoured me with an extract from the notes taken by +himself on that part of the coast.</p> +<p>The land, on the east and south of the Gulf of Carpentaria, is +so low, that for a space of nearly six hundred miles--from +Endeavour Strait to a range of hills on the mainland, west of +Wellesley Islands, at the bottom of the gulf--no part of the +coast is higher than a ship's masthead.* Some of the land in +Wellesley islands is higher than the main; but the largest island +is, probably, not more than one hundred and fifty feet in +height;** and low-wooded hills occur on the mainland, from thence +to Sir Edward Pellew's group. The rock observed on the shore at +Coen River, the only point on the eastern side of the Gulf where +Captain Flinders landed, was calcareous sandstone of recent +concretional formation.</p> +<blockquote>(*Footnote. Flinders Charts Plate 14.)</blockquote> +<blockquote>(**Footnote. Flinders Volume 2 page +158.)</blockquote> +<p>In Sweer's Island, one of Wellesley's Isles, a hill of about +fifty or sixty feet in height was covered with a sandy calcareous +stone, having the appearance of concretions rising irregularly +about a foot above the general surface, without any distinct +ramifications. The specimens from this place have evidently the +structure of stalactites, which seem to have been formed in sand; +and the reddish carbonate of lime, by which the sand has been +agglutinated, is of the same character with that of the west +coast, where a similar concreted limestone occurs in great +abundance.</p> +<p>The western shore of the Gulf of Carpentaria is somewhat +higher, and from Limmen's Bight to the latitude of Groote +Eylandt, is lined by a range of low hills. On the north of the +latter place, the coast becomes irregular and broken; the base of +the country apparently consisting of primitive rocks, and the +upper part of the hills of a reddish sandstone; some of the +specimens of which are identical with that which occurs at +Goulburn and Sims Islands on the north coast, and is very widely +distributed on the north-west. The shore at the bottom of +Melville Bay is stated by Captain Flinders to consist of low +cliffs of pipe-clay, for a space of about eight miles in extent +from east to west; and similar cliffs of pipe-clay are described +as occurring at Goulburn Islands (see the plate, volume 1) and at +Lethbridge Bay, on the north of Melville Island: both of which +places are considerably to the west of the Gulf of +Carpentaria.</p> +<p>Morgan's Island, a small islet in Blue-Mud Bay, on the +north-west of Groote Eylandt, is composed of clink-stone; and +other rocks of the trap-formation occur in several places on this +coast.</p> +<p>The north of Blue-Mud Bay has furnished also specimens of +ancient sandstone; with columnar rocks, probably of clink-stone. +Round Hill, near Point Grindall, a promontory on the north of +Morgan's Island, is composed, at the base, of granite; and Mount +Caledon, on the west side of Caledon Bay, seems likewise to +consist of that rock, as does also Melville Island. This part of +the coast has afforded the ferruginous oxide of manganese: and +brown hematite is found hereabouts in considerable quantity, on +the shore at the base of the cliffs; forming the cement of a +breccia, which contains fragments of sandstone, and in which the +ferruginous matter appears to be of very recent production; +resembling, perhaps, the hematite observed at Edinburgh by +Professor Jameson, around cast-iron pipes which had lain for some +time in sand.*</p> +<blockquote>(*Footnote. Edinburgh Philosophical Journal, July +1825 page 193.)</blockquote> +<p>The general range of the coast, it will be observed, from +Limmen's Bight to Cape Arnhem, is from south-west to north-east; +and three conspicuous ranges of islands on the north-western +entrance of the Gulf of Carpentaria, the appearance of which is +so remarkable as to have attracted the attention of Captain +Flinders,* have the same general direction: a fact which is +probably not unconnected with the general structure of the +country. The prevailing rock in all these islands appears to be +sandstone.</p> +<p>(Flinders Volume 2 page 158. See hereafter.)</p> +<p>The line of the main coast from Point Dale to the bottom of +Castlereagh Bay, where Captain King's survey was resumed, has +also a direction from south-west to north-east, parallel to that +of the ranges of islands just mentioned. The low land near the +north coast in Castlereagh Bay, and from thence to Goulburn +Islands, is intersected by one of the few rivers yet discovered +in this part of Australia, a tortuous and shallow stream, named +Liverpool River, which has been traced inland to about forty +miles from the coast, through a country not more than three feet +in general elevation above high-water mark; the banks being low +and muddy, and thickly wooded: And this description is applicable +also to the Alligator Rivers on the south-east of Van Diemen's +Gulf, and to the surrounding country. The outline of the +Wellington Hills, however, on the mainland between the Liverpool +and Alligator Rivers, is jagged and irregular; this range being +thus remarkably contrasted with the flat summits which appear to +be very numerous on the north-western coast.</p> +<p>The specimens from Goulburn Islands consist of reddish +sandstone, not to be distinguished from that which occurs beneath +the coal formation in England. On the west of these islands the +coast is more broken, and the outline is irregular: but the +elevation is inconsiderable; the general height in Cobourg +Peninsula not being above one hundred and fifty feet above the +sea, and that of the hills not more than from three to four +hundred feet.</p> +<p>On this part of the coast, several hills are remarkable for +the flatness of their tops; and the general outline of many of +the islands, as seen on the horizon, is very striking and +peculiar. Thus Mount Bedwell and Mount Roe, on the south of +Cobourg Peninsula; Luxmoore Head, at the west end of Melville +Island; the Barthelemy Hills, south of Cape Ford; Mount Goodwin, +south of Port Keats; Mount Cockburn, and several of the hills +adjacent to Cambridge Gulf, the names given to which during the +progress of the survey sufficiently indicate their form, as +House-roofed, Bastion, Flat-top, and Square-top Hills; Mount +Casuarina, about forty miles north-west of Cambridge Gulf; a hill +near Cape Voltaire; Steep-Head, Port Warrender; and several of +the islands off that port, York Sound, and Prince Regent's River; +Cape Cuvier, about latitude 24 degrees; and, still further south, +the whole of Moresby's flat-topped Range, are all distinguished +by their linear and nearly horizontal outlines: and except in a +few instances, as Mount Cockburn, Steep-Head, Mounts Trafalgar +and Waterloo (which look more like hills of floetz-trap) they +have very much the aspect of the summits in the coal +formation.*</p> +<blockquote>(*Footnote. Captain King, however, has informed me, +that in some of these cases, the shape of the hill is really that +of a roof, or hayrick; the transverse section being angular, and +the horizontal top an edge.)</blockquote> +<p>Sketch 1 of some of the islands off Admiralty Gulf (looking +southward from the north-east end of Cassini Island, about +latitude 13 degrees 50 minutes, East longitude 125 degrees 50 +minutes) has some resemblance to one of the views in Peron's +Atlas (plate 6 figure 7): and the outline of the Iles Forbin +(plate 8 figure 5, of the same series) also exhibits remarkably +the peculiar form represented in several of Captain King's +drawings (Sketch 2).</p> +<center> +<p><a name="king2-10"></a><img alt="" src="images/king2-10a.jpg"></p> +<p><img alt="" src="images/king2-10b.jpg"></p> +<p><img alt="" src="images/king2-10c.jpg"></p> +<p><b>SKETCH 1: ISLANDS OFF ADMIRALTY GULF, LOOKING SOUTHWARD +FROM THE NORTH-EAST END OF CASSINI ISLAND.<br> +Left to right: Corneille, Fenelon, Descartes, and Pascal Islands, +Hills on Cape Voltaire, Condillac Island, and East end of Cassini +Island (Peron's Atlas, plate 6, figure 7) and the outline of the +Iles Forbin (Peron's Atlas, plate 8, figure 5).<br> +SKETCH 2: ISLANDS OFF ADMIRALTY GULF, LOOKING SOUTHWARD FROM THE +NORTH-EAST END OF CASSINI ISLAND. Left to right: Peak upon Cape +Voltaire and Condillac Island, bearing South, two miles distant. +Several drawings of Captain King.</b></p> +</center> +<p>Â </p> +<center> +<p><a name="king2-11"></a><img alt="" src="images/king2-11.jpg"></p> +<p><b>SKETCH 3: TWO CONSPICUOUS HILLS NORTH-EAST OF +PRINCE-REGENT'S RIVER. Left to right: Mount Trafalgar and Mount +Waterloo.</b></p> +</center> +<p>Â </p> +<p>The red colour of the cliffs on the north-west and west +coasts, is also an appearance which is frequently noticed on the +sketches taken by Captain King and his officers. This is +conspicuous in the neighbourhood of Cape Croker; at Darch Island +and Palm Bay; at Point Annesley and Point Coombe in Mountnorris +Bay; in the land about Cape Van Diemen, and on the north-west of +Bathurst Island. The cliffs on Roe's River (Prince Frederic's +Harbour) as might have been expected from the specimens, are +described as of a reddish colour; Cape Leveque is of the same +hue; and the northern limit of Shark's Bay, Cape Cuvier of the +French, latitude 24 degrees 13 minutes, which is like an enormous +bastion, may be distinguished at a considerable distance by its +full red colour.*</p> +<blockquote>(*Footnote. Freycinet page 195.)</blockquote> +<p>It is on the bank of the channel which separates Bathurst and +Melville Islands, near the north-western extremity of New +Holland, that a new colony has recently been established: (see +Captain King's Narrative volume 2.) A permanent station under the +superintendence of a British officer, in a country so very little +known, and in a situation so remote from any other English +settlement, affords an opportunity of collecting objects of +natural history, and of illustrating various points of great +interest to physical geography and meteorology, which it is to be +hoped will not be neglected. And as a very instructive +collection, for the general purposes of geology, can readily be +obtained in such situations, by attending to a few precautions, I +have thought that some brief directions on this subject would not +be out of place in the present publication; and have subjoined +them to the list of specimens at the close of this paper.*</p> +<blockquote>(*Footnote. See hereafter.)</blockquote> +<p>In the vicinity of Cambridge Gulf, Captain King states, the +character of the country is entirely changed; and irregular +ranges of detached rocky hills composed of sandstone, rising +abruptly from extensive plains of low level land, supersede the +low and woody coast, that occupies almost uninterruptedly the +space between this inlet and Cape Wessel, a distance of more than +six hundred miles. Cambridge Gulf, which is nothing more than a +swampy arm of the sea, extends to about eighty miles inland, in a +southern direction: and all the specimens from its vicinity +precisely resemble the older sandstones of the confines of +England and Wales.* The View (volume 1 plate) represents in the +distance Mount Cockburn, at the head of Cambridge Gulf; the flat +rocky top of which was supposed to consist of sandstone, but has +also the aspect of the trap-formation. The strata in Lacrosse +Island, at the entrance of the Gulf, rise toward the north-west, +at an angle of about 30 degrees with the horizon: their direction +consequently being from north-east to south-west.</p> +<blockquote>(*Footnote. I use the term Old Red Sand Stone, in the +acceptation of Messrs. Buckland and Conybeare, Observations on +the South Western Coal District of England. Geological +Transactions Second Series volume 1. Captain King's specimens +from Lacrosse Island are not to be distinguished from the slaty +strata of that formation, in the banks of the Avon, about two +miles below Clifton.)</blockquote> +<p>From hence to Cape Londonderry, towards the south, is an +uniform coast of moderate elevation; and from that point to Cape +Leveque, although the outline may be in a general view considered +as ranging from north-east to south-west,* the coast is +remarkably indented, and the adjoining sea irregularly studded +with very numerous islands. The specimens from this tract consist +almost entirely of sandstone, resembling that of Cambridge Gulf, +Goulburn Island, and the Gulf of Carpentaria; with which the +trap-formation appears to be associated.</p> +<blockquote>(*Footnote. The large chart Sheet 5 best shows the +general range of the shore, from the islands filling up the +inlets.)</blockquote> +<p>York Sound, one of the principal inlets on this part of the +coast, is bounded by precipitous rocks, from one to two hundred +feet in height; and some conical rocky peaks, which not +improbably consist of quartz-rock, were noticed on the eastern +side of the entrance. An unpublished sketch, by Captain King, +shows that the banks of Hunter's River, one of the branches of +York Sound, at seven or eight miles from its opening, are +composed of sandstone, in beds of great regularity; and this +place is also remarkable for a copious spring of fresh water, one +of the rarest phenomena of these thirsty and inhospitable +shores.*</p> +<blockquote>(*Footnote. Narrative 1.)</blockquote> +<p>The most considerable inlet, however, which has yet been +discovered in this quarter of Australia, is Prince Regent's +River, about thirty miles to the south-west of York Sound, the +course of which is almost rectilinear for about fifty miles in a +south-eastern direction; a fact which will probably be found to +be connected with the geological structure of the country. The +general character of the banks, which are lofty and abrupt, is +precisely the same with that of the rivers falling into York +Sound; and the level of the country does not appear to be higher +in the interior than near the coast. The banks are from two to +four hundred feet in height, and consist of close-grained +siliceous sandstone, of a reddish hue;* and the view (Plate +above) shows that the beds are nearly horizontal, and very +regularly disposed; the cascade there represented being about one +hundred and sixty feet in height, and the beds from six to twelve +feet in thickness. Two conspicuous hills, which Captain King has +named Mounts Trafalgar and Waterloo, on the north-east of +Prince-Regent's River, not far from its entrance, are remarkable +for cap-like summits, much resembling those which characterize +the trap formation. (Sketch 3.)</p> +<blockquote>(*Footnote. Narrative 1 and 2.)</blockquote> +<p>The coast on the south of this remarkable river, to Cape +Leveque, has not yet been thoroughly examined; but it appears +from Captain King's Chart (Number 5) to be intersected by several +inlets of considerable size, to trace which to their termination +is still a point of great interest in the physical geography of +New Holland. The space thus left to be explored, from the +Champagny Isles to Cape Leveque, corresponds to more than one +hundred miles in a direct line; within which extent nothing but +islands and detached portions of land have yet been observed. One +large inlet especially, on the south-east of Cape Leveque, +appears to afford considerable promise of a river; and the rise +of the tide within the Buccaneer's Archipelago, where there is +another unexplored opening, is no less than thirty-seven +feet.</p> +<p>The outline of the coast about Cape Leveque itself is low, +waving, and rounded; and the hue for which the cliffs are +remarkable in so many parts of the coast to the north, is also +observable here, the colour of the rocks at Point Coulomb being +of a deep red: but on the south of the high ground near that +Point, the rugged stony cliffs are succeeded by a long tract, +which to the French voyagers (for it was not examined by Captain +King) appeared to consist of low and sandy land, fronted by +extensive shoals. It has hitherto been seen, however, only at a +distance; so that a space of more than three hundred miles, from +Point Gantheaume nearly to Cape Lambert, still remains to be +accurately surveyed.</p> +<p>Depuch Island, east of Dampier's Archipelago, about latitude +20 degrees 30 minutes, is described by the French naturalists as +consisting in a great measure of columnar rocks, which they +supposed to be VOLCANIC; and they found reason to believe that +the adjoining continent was of the same materials.* It is not +improbable, however, that this term was applied to columns +belonging to the trap formation, since no burning mountain has +been any where observed on the coast of New Holland: nor do the +drawings of Depuch Island, made on board Captain King's vessel, +give reason to suppose that it is at present eruptive. Captain +King's specimens from Malus Island, in Dampier's Archipelago +(sixty miles farther west) consist of greenstone and +amygdaloid.</p> +<blockquote>(*Footnote. Peron volume 1 page 130.)</blockquote> +<p>The coast is again broken and rugged about Dampier's +Archipelago, latitude 20 degrees 30 minutes; and on the south of +Cape Preston, in latitude 21 degrees, is an opening of about +fifteen miles in width, between rocky hills, which has not been +explored. From thence to the bottom of Exmouth Gulf, more than +one hundred and fifty miles, the coast is low and sandy, and does +not exhibit any prominences. The west coast of Exmouth Gulf +itself is formed by a promontory of level land, terminating in +the North-west Cape; and from thence to the south-west, as far as +Cape Cuvier, the general height of the coast is from four to five +hundred feet; nor are any mountains visible over the coast +range.</p> +<p>Several portions of the shore between Shark's Bay and Cape +Naturaliste have been described in the account of Commodore +Baudin's Expedition; but some parts still remain to be surveyed. +From the specimens collected by Captain King and the French +descriptions, it appears that the islands on the west of Shark's +Bay abound in a concretional calcareous rock of very recent +formation, similar to what is found on the shore in several other +parts of New Holland, especially in the neighbourhood of King +George's Sound; and which is abundant also on the coast of the +West Indian Islands, and of the Mediterranean. Captain King's +specimens of this production are from Dirk Hartog's and Rottnest +Islands; and M. Peron states that the upper parts of Bernier and +Dorre Islands are composed of a rock of the same nature. This +part of the coast is covered in various places with extensive +dunes of sand; but the nature of the base, on which both these +and the calcareous formation repose, has not been +ascertained.</p> +<p>The general direction of the rocky shore, from North-west Cape +to Dirk Hartog's Island, is from the east of north to the west of +south. On the south of the latter place the land turns towards +the east. High, rocky and reddish cliffs have been seen +indistinctly about latitude 27 degrees; and a coast of the same +aspect has been surveyed, from Red Point, about latitude 28 +degrees, for more than eighty miles to the south-west. The hills +called Moresby's flat-topped Range, of which Mount Fairfax, +latitude 28 degrees 45 minutes, is the highest point, occupy a +space of more than fifty miles from north to south.</p> +<p>Rottnest Island and its vicinity, latitude 32 degrees, +contains in abundance the calcareous concretions already +mentioned; which seem there to consist in a great measure of the +remains of recent shells, in considerable variety. The islands of +this part of the shore have been described by MM. Peron and +Freycinet;* and the coast to the south, down to Cape Leeuwin, the +south-western extremity of New Holland, having been sufficiently +examined by the French voyagers, was not surveyed by Captain +King.</p> +<blockquote>(*Footnote. Peron volume 2 page 168 +etc.)</blockquote> +<p>Swan River (Riviere des Cygnes) upon this part of the coast, +latitude 31 degrees 25 minutes to 32 degrees, was examined by the +French expedition, to the distance of about twenty leagues from +its mouth; and found still to contain salt water. The rock in its +neighbourhood consisted altogether of sandy and calcareous +incrustations, in horizontal beds, enclosing, it is stated, +shells, and the roots and even trunks of trees. Between this +river and Cape Peron, a "great bay" was left unexplored.*</p> +<blockquote>(*Footnote. Peron volume 1 page 179. Freycinet page +5. 170.)</blockquote> +<p>The prominent mass of land, which stands out from the main, +between Cape Naturaliste and Cape Leeuwin, and runs nearly on the +meridian for more than fifty miles, seems to have a base of +granite, which, at Cape Naturaliste, is said to be stratified.* +The same rock also occurs, among Captain King's specimens, from +Bald-head in King George's Sound; but nearly on the summit of +that hill, which is about five hundred feet high, were Found the +ramified calcareous concretions, erroneously considered as corals +by Vancouver and others;** but which appear, from Captain King's +specimens, to be nothing more than a variety of the recent +limestone so abundant throughout these shores.</p> +<blockquote>(*Footnote. Peron volume 1 page 69.)</blockquote> +<blockquote>(**Footnote. Vancouver 1 49. D'Entrecasteaux 2 175. +Freycinet 105. Flinders 1 63. See the detailed descriptions +hereafter; and Captain King's Narrative volume 1.)</blockquote> +<p>The south coast, and the southern portion of the east coast of +Australia, which were surveyed by Captain Flinders, are described +in the account of his voyage, and do not come within the object +of the present paper.</p> +<hr align="center" width="20%"> +<h3>GEOLOGICAL REMARKS.</h3> +<p>1. The rocks, of which specimens occur in the collections of +Captain King and Mr. Brown, are the following:</p> +<p>Granite: Cape Cleveland; C. Grafton; Endeavour River; Lizard +Island; Round Hill, near C. Grindall; Mount Caledon; Island near +C. Arnhem; Melville Bay; Bald-head, King George's Sound.</p> +<p>Various Slaty Rocks:<br> +Mica-State: Mallison's I.<br> +Talc-State: Endeavour River.<br> +Slaty Clay: Inglis' I., Clack I., Percy I.<br> +Hornblende Rock ?: Pobassoo's Island; Halfway Bay, Prince +Regent's River.</p> +<p>Granular Quartz: Endeavour River; Montagu Sound, North-west +Coast.<br> +Epidote: C. Clinton ?; Port Warrender; Careening Bay.</p> +<p>Quartzose Conglomerates, and ancient Sandstones: Rodd's Bay; +Islands of the north and north-west coasts; Cambridge Gulf; York +Sound; Prince Regent's River.</p> +<p>Pipe-clay: Melville Bay; Goulburn I.; Lethbridge Bay.</p> +<p>ROCKS OF THE TRAP FORMATION.</p> +<p>Serpentine: Port Macquarie; Percy Isles.</p> +<p>Sienite: Rodd's Bay.</p> +<p>Porphyry: C. Cleveland.</p> +<p>Porphyritic Conglomerate: C. Clinton, Percy I., Good's I.</p> +<p>Compact Felspar: Percy I., Repulse Bay, Sunday Island.</p> +<p>Greenstone: Vansittart Bay, Bat I., Careening Bay, Malus +I.</p> +<p>Clinkstone: Morgan's I., Pobassoo's I.</p> +<p>Amygdaloid, with Chalcedony: Port Warrender; Half-way Bay; Bat +Island; Malus I.</p> +<p>Wacke ?: Bat Island.</p> +<hr align="center" width="20%"> +<p>Recent calcareous Breccia: Sweer's Island, N. coast. Dirk +Hartog's and Rottnest Islands, etc., West coast. King George's +Sound, South coast.</p> +<p>The only information that has been published respecting the +geology of New Holland, besides what is contained in the Voyages +of Captain Flinders and Commodore Baudin, is a slight notice by +Professor Buckland of some specimens collected during Mr. Oxley's +Expedition to the River Macquarie,* in 1818; and a brief outline +of a paper by the Reverend Archdeacon Scott, entitled A Sketch of +the Geology of New South Wales and Van Diemen's Land, which has +been read before the Geological Society.** On these authorities, +the following may be added to the preceding list of rocks:</p> +<p>Limestone, resembling in the character of its organic remains +the mountain limestone or England: Interior of New Holland, near +the east coast; Van Diemen's Land (Buckland; Prevost manuscripts; +Scott).</p> +<p>The Coal-formation: East coast of New Holland; Van Diemen's +Land. (Buckland-Scott.)</p> +<p>Indications of the new red-Sandstone (Red-Marl) afforded by +the occurrence of Salt: Van Diemen's Land. (Scott.)</p> +<p>Oolite: Van Diemen's Land. (Scott.)</p> +<blockquote>(*Footnote. Geological Transactions volume 5 page +480.)</blockquote> +<blockquote>(**Footnote. Ann. of Phil. June 1824. I am informed +that Mr. Von Buch also has published a paper on the rocks of New +Holland; but have not been so fortunate as to meet with it. +<p>Since this paper has been at the press, a Report presented to +the Academy of Sciences at Paris, on the Voyage of Discovery of +M. Duperrey, performed during the years 1822 to 1825, has been +published; from whence I have subjoined an extract, in order to +complete the catalogue of the rocks of Australia, according to +the present state of our information.</p> +<p>Les echantillons recueillis tant dans les contrees voisines du +Port Jackson, que dans les Montagnes-Bleues, augmentent beaucoup +nos connoissances sur ces parties de la Nouvelle Hollande. Les +echantillons, au nombre de soixante-dix, nous offrent, 1. Les +granites, les syenites-quartziferes, et les pegmatites (granites +graphiques) qui cunstituent le second plan des Muntagnes-Bleues. +2. Les gres ferrugineux, et renfermant d'abondantes paillettes de +fer oligiste, qui couvrent non seulement une vaste etendue de +pays pres des cotes, mais encore le premier plan des +Montagnes-Bleues; et 3. Le lignite stratiforme qu'on exploite au +Mont-Yorck, a 1000 pieds au-dessus du niveau de la mer, et dont +la presence ajoute aux motifs qui portent a penser que les gres +ferrugineux de ces contrees appartiennent au systeme des terrains +tertiaires.</p> +<p>Vingt-sept echantillons ramasses a la terre de Van Diemen, +dans les environs du port Dalrymple, et pres du Cap Barren, +indiquent, 1. Des terrains de pegmatite, et de serpentine. 2. Des +terrains intermediaires coquilliers, formes du +grauwacke-schistoide, et de pierre calcaire. 3. Des terrains +tres-recens, composes d'argile sablonneuse et ferrugineuse, avec +geodes de fer hydrate, et du bois fossile, a differens etats. On +distingue en outre des belles topazes blanches ou bleuatres, +parmi les galets quartzeux, qui ont ete recueillis au Cap Barren: +Bulletin des Sciences Naturelles, Octobre 1825 page 189.)</p> +</blockquote> +<p>2. The specimens of Captain King's and Mr. Brown's +collections, without any exception, agree with those of the same +denominations from other parts of the world; and the resemblance +is, in some instances, very remarkable: The sandstones of the +west and north-west of New Holland are so like those of the west +of England, and of Wales, that the specimens from the two +countries can scarcely be distinguished from each other; the +arenaceous cement in the calcareous breccia of the west coast is +precisely the same with that of Sicily; and the jasper, +chalcedony, and green quartz approaching to heliotrope, from the +entrance of Prince Regent's River, resemble those of the Tyrol, +both in their characters and association. The Epidote of Port +Warrender and Careening Bay, affords an additional proof of the +general distribution of that mineral; which, though perhaps it +may not constitute large masses, seems to be of more frequent +occurrence as a component of rocks than has hitherto been +supposed.* The mineral itself, both crystallized and compact, the +latter in the form of veins traversing sienitic rocks, occurs, in +Mr. Greenough's cabinet alone, from Malvern, North Wales, +Ireland, France, and Upper Saxony. Mr. Koenig has found it +extensively in the sienitic tract of Jersey;** where blocks of a +pudding-stone, bearing some resemblance to the green breccia of +Egypt, were found to be composed of compact epidote, including +very large pebbles of a porphyritic rock, which itself contains a +considerable proportion of this substance. And Mr. Greenough has +recently received, among specimens sent home by Mr. J. Burton, +junior, a mass of compact epidote, with quartz and felspar, from +Dokhan, in the desert between the Red Sea and the Nile. When New +Holland is added to these localities, it will appear that few +minerals are more widely diffused.</p> +<blockquote>(*Footnote. See Cleaveland's Mineralogy 1816 page 297 +to 300.)</blockquote> +<blockquote>(**Footnote. Plee's Account of Jersey quarto +Southampton 1817 page 231 to 276.)</blockquote> +<p>3. The unpublished sketches, by Captain King and Mr. Roe, of +the hills in sight during the progress of the survey of the +Coasts of Australia, accord in a very striking manner with the +geological character of the shore. Those from the east coast, +where the rocks are primitive, representing strongly marked and +irregular outlines of lofty mountains, and frequently, in the +nearer ground, masses of strata highly inclined. The outlines on +the contrary, on the north, north-west, and western shores, are +most commonly uniform, rectilinear, the summits flat, and +diversified only by occasional detached and conical peaks, none +of which are very lofty.</p> +<p>4. No information has yet been obtained, from any of the +collections, respecting the diluvial deposits of Australia: a +class of phenomena which is of the highest interest, in an island +of such vast extent, so very remote in situation, and of which +the existing animals are so different from those of other parts +of the globe. It is remarkable, also, that no limestone is among +the specimens from the northern and western shores, except that +of the recent breccia; and although negative conclusions are +hazardous, it would seem probable, from this circumstance, that +limestone cannot be very abundant or conspicuous at the places +visited. No eruptive mountains, nor any traces of recent volcanic +eruption, have yet been observed in any part of Australia.</p> +<p>5. The recent calcareous breccia, of which a detailed +description will be found in the subjoined list of specimens, is +one of the most remarkable productions of New Holland: It was +found, during the expedition of Commodore Baudin, to exist +throughout a space of no less than twenty-five degrees of +latitude, and an equal extent of longitude, on the southern, +west, and north-west coasts;* and from Mr. Brown's specimens it +appears to occur also on the shores of the Gulf of Carpentaria. +The full account which M. Peron has given of this formation, +sufficiently shows its resemblance to the very recent limestone, +full of marine shells, which abounds on the shores of the +Mediterranean, the West India Islands, and in several other parts +of the world: And it is a point of the greatest interest in +geology, to determine, whether any distinct line can really be +drawn, between those concretions, unquestionably of modern +formation, which occur immediately upon the shore; and other +calcareous accumulations, very nearly resembling them, if not +identical, both in the fossils they contain, and in the +characters of the cementing substances, that are found in several +countries, at considerable heights above the sea.</p> +<blockquote>(*Footnote. Voyage 2 page 168, 169 to 216 +etc.)</blockquote> +<p>Dr. Buckland has described a breccia of modern formation, +which occurs upon the shore at Madagascar, and consists of a +firmly-compacted cream-coloured stone, composed of granular +fragments of shells, agglutinated by a calcareous cement.* The +stone of Guadaloupe, containing the human skeletons, is likewise +of the same nature; and its very recent production cannot be +doubted, since it contains fragments of stone axes, and of +pottery.** The cemented shells of Bermuda, described by Captain +Vetch,*** which pass gradually into a compact limestone, differ +only in colour from the Guadaloupe stone; and agree with it, and +with the calcareous breccia of Dirk Hartog's Island, in the +gradual melting down of the cement into the included portions, +which is one of the most remarkable features of that rock.**** A +calcareous compound, apparently of the same kind, has been +recently mentioned, as of daily production in Anastasia Island, +on the coast of East Florida;***** and will probably be found to +be of very general occurrence in that quarter of the globe. And +Captain Beaufort's account of the process by which the gravelly +beach is cemented into stone, at Selinti, and several other +places on the coast of Karamania, on the north-east of the +Mediterranean,****** accords with M. Peron's description of the +progress from the loose and moveable sands of the dunes to solid +masses of rock.******* In the island of Rhodes, also, there are +hills of pudding-stone, of the same character, considerably +elevated above the sea. And Captain W.H. Smyth, the author of +Travels in Sicily, and of the Survey of the Mediterranean +recently published by the Admiralty, informs me, that he has seen +these concretions in Calabria, and on the coasts of the Adriatic; +but still more remarkably in the narrow strip of recent land +(called the Placca) which connects Leucadia, one of the Ionian +Islands, with the continent, and so much resembles a work of art, +that it has been considered as a Roman fabric. The stone +composing this isthmus is so compact, that the best mill-stones +in the Ionian Islands are made from it; but it is in fact nothing +more than gravel and sand cemented by calcareous matter, the +accretion of which is supposed to be rapidly advancing at the +present day.</p> +<blockquote>(*Footnote. Geological Transactions volume 5 page +479.)</blockquote> +<blockquote>(**Footnote. Linnean Transactions 12 page 53 to +57.)</blockquote> +<blockquote>(***Footnote. Geological Transactions 2nd Series +volume 1 page 172.)</blockquote> +<blockquote>(****Footnote. Koenig Philosophical Transactions 1814 +page 107 etc.)</blockquote> +<blockquote>(*****Footnote. Bulletin des Sciences Nat. Mars +1825.)</blockquote> +<blockquote>(******Footnote. Beaufort's Description of the South +Coast of Asia Minor etc. Second edition. London 1818: pages 180 +to 184 etc. In the neighbourhood of Adalia the deposition of +calcareous matter from the water is so copious that an old +watercourse had actually crept upwards to a height of nearly +three feet; and the rapidity of the deposition was such that some +specimens were collected on the grass, where the stony crust was +already formed, although the verdure of the leaf was as yet but +imperfectly withered (page 114): a fact which renders less +extraordinary M. Peron's statement that the excrements of +kangaroos had been found concreted by calcareous matter. Peron +volume 2 page 116.)</blockquote> +<blockquote>(*******Footnote. Voyage 2 116.)</blockquote> +<p>The nearest approach to the concreted sand-rock of Australia, +that I have seen, is in the specimens presented by Dr. Daubeny to +the Bristol Institution, to accompany his excellent paper on the +geology of Sicily;* which prove that the arenaceous breccia of +New Holland is very like that which occupies a great part of the +coast, almost entirely around that island. Some of Dr. Daubeny's +specimens from Monte Calogero, above Sciacca, consist of a +breccia, containing angular fragments of splintery limestone, +united by a cement, composed of minute grains of quartzose-sand +disseminated in a calcareous paste, resembling precisely that of +the breccia of Dirk Hartog's Island: and a compound of this kind, +replete with shells, not far, if at all, different from existing +species, fills up the hollows in most of the older rocks of +Sicily; and is described as occurring, in several places, at very +considerable heights above the sea. Thus, near Palermo, it +constitutes hills some hundred feet in height; near Girgenti, all +the most elevated spots are crowned with a loose stratum of the +same kind; and the heights near Castro Giovanni, said to be 2880 +feet above the sea, are probably composed of it. But although the +concretions of the interior in Sicily much resemble those of the +shore, it is still doubtful whether the former be not of more +ancient formation; and if they contain nummulites, they would +probably be referred to the epoch of the beds within the Paris +basin.</p> +<blockquote>(*Footnote. Edinburgh Philosophical Journal 1825 +pages 116, 117, 118, and 254 to 255.)</blockquote> +<p>The looser breccia of Monte Pelegrino, in Sicily, is very like +the less compacted fragments of shells from Bermuda, described by +Captain Vetch, and already referred to:* and the rock in both +these cases, nearly approaches to some of the coarser oolites of +England.</p> +<blockquote>(*Footnote. These specimens are in the Museum of the +Geological Society.)</blockquote> +<p>The resemblance pointed out by M. Prevost,* of the specimens +of recent breccia from New Holland, in the museum at the Jardin +du Roi, to those of St. Hospice near Nice, is confirmed by the +detail given by Mr. Allan in his sketch of the geology of that +neighbourhood;** in which the perfect preservation of the shells, +and their near approach to those of the adjoining sea at the +present day, are particularly mentioned; and it is inferred that +the date of the deposit which affords them, is anterior to that +of the conglomerate containing the bones of extinct quadrupeds, +likewise found in that country. M. Brongniart also, who examined +the place himself, mentions the recent accumulation which occurs +at St. Hospice, about sixty feet above the present level of the +sea, as containing marine shells in a scarcely fossil state (a +peine fossiles) and he describes the mass in which they occur, as +belonging to a formation still more recent than the upper marine +beds of the environs of Paris.***</p> +<blockquote>(*Footnote. Prevost manuscripts. See +hereafter.)</blockquote> +<blockquote>(**Footnote. Transactions of the Royal Society of +Edinburgh volume 8 1818 page 427 etc. See also the previous +publications of M. Risso Journal des Mines tome 34 +etc.)</blockquote> +<blockquote>(***Footnote. Brongniart in Cuvier Ossemens Fossiles; +2nd Edit. volume 2 page 427.)</blockquote> +<p>The geological period indicated by these facts, being probably +more recent than the tertiary beds containing nummulites, and +generally than the Paris and London strata, accords with the date +which has hitherto been assigned to the crag beds of Suffolk, +Essex, and Norfolk:* but later observations render doubtful the +opinion generally received respecting the age of these remarkable +deposits, and a full and satisfactory account of them is still a +desideratum in the geology of England. When, also, our imperfect +acquaintance with the travertino of Italy, and other very modern +limestones containing freshwater shells, is considered,** the +continual deposition of which, at the present time, cannot be +questioned (though probably the greater part of the masses which +consist of them may belong to an era preceding the actual +condition of the earth's surface) it would seem that the whole +subject of these newer calcareous formations requires +elucidation: and, if the inferences connected with them do not +throw considerable doubt upon some opinions at present generally +received, they show, at least, that a great deal more is to be +learned respecting the operations and products of the most recent +geological epochs, than is commonly supposed.</p> +<blockquote>(*Footnote. Conybeare and Phillips Outlines etc. page +11, Geological Transactions 1 page 327 etc. Taylor in Geological +Transactions 2nd series Volume 2 page 371. Mr. Taylor states the +important fact that the remains of unknown animals are buried +together with the shells in the crag of Suffolk; but does not +mention the nature of these remains. Since these pages have been +at the press, Mr. Warburton, by whom the coast of Essex and +Norfolk has been examined with great accuracy, has informed me +that the fossil bones of the crag are the same with those of the +diluvial gravel, including the remains of the elephant, +rhinoceros, stag, etc.)</blockquote> +<blockquote>(**Footnote. Some valuable observations on the +formation of recent limestone, in beds of shelly marl at the +bottom of lakes in Scotland, have been read before the Geological +Society by Mr. Lyell, and will appear in the volume of the +Transactions now in the press. See Annals of Philosophy 1825 page +310.)</blockquote> +<p>Since it appears that the accretion of calcareous matter is +continually going on at the present time, and has probably taken +place at all times, the stone thus formed, independent of the +organized bodies which it envelopes, will afford no criterion of +its date, nor give any very certain clue to the revolutions which +have subsequently acted upon it. But as MARINE shells are found +in the cemented masses, at heights above the sea, to which no +ordinary natural operations could have conveyed them, the +elevation of these shells to their actual place (if not that of +the rock in which they are agglutinated) must be referred to some +other agency: while the perfect preservation of the shells, their +great quantity, and the abundance of the same species in the same +places, make it more probable that they lay originally in the +situations where we now find them, than that they have been +transported from any considerable distances, or elevated by any +very turbulent operation. Captain de Freycinet, indeed, mentions +that patellae, worn by attrition, and other recent shells, have +been found on the west coast of New Holland, on the top of a wall +of rocks an hundred feet above the sea, evidently brought up by +the surge during violent storms;* but such shells are found in +the breccia of Sicily, and in several other places, at heights +too great, and their preservation is too perfect, to admit of +this mode of conveyance; and to account for their existence in +such situations, recourse must be had to more powerful means of +transport.</p> +<blockquote>(* Freycinet page 187. The presence of shells in such +situations may often be ascribed to the birds, which feed on +their inhabitants. At Madeira, where recent shells are found near +the coast at a considerable height above the sea, the Gulls have +been seen carrying up the living patellae, just taken from the +rocks.)</blockquote> +<p>The occurrence of corals, and marine shells of recent +appearance, at considerable heights above the sea, on the coasts +of New Holland, Timor, and several other islands of the south, +was justly considered by M. Peron as demonstrating the former +abode of the sea above the land; and very naturally suggested an +inquiry, as to the nature of the revolutions to which this change +of situation is to be ascribed.* From similar appearances at Pulo +Nias, one of the islands off the western coast of Sumatra, Dr. +Jack also was led to infer, that the surface of that island must +at one time have been the bed of the ocean; and after stating, +that by whatever means it obtained its present elevation, the +transition must have been effected with little violence or +disturbance to the marine productions at the surface,** he +concludes, that the phenomena are in favour of a HEAVING UP OF +THE LAND, BY A FORCE FROM BENEATH. The probable nature of this +force is indicated most distinctly, if not demonstrated, by the +phenomena which attended the memorable earthquake of Chili, in +November, 1820,*** which was felt throughout a space of fifteen +hundred miles from north to south. For it is stated upon the +clearest evidence, that after formidable shocks of earthquake, +repeated with little interruption during the whole night of the +19th of November (and the shocks were continued afterwards, at +intervals, for several months) IT APPEARED, on the morning of the +20th, THAT THE WHOLE LINE OF COAST FROM NORTH TO SOUTH, TO A +DISTANCE OF ABOUT ONE HUNDRED MILES, HAD BEEN RAISED ABOVE ITS +FORMER LEVEL. The alteration of level at Valparaiso was about +three feet; and some rocks were thus newly exposed, on which the +fishermen collected the scallop-shell fish, which was not known +to exist there before the earthquake. At Quintero the elevation +was about four feet. "When I went," the narrator adds, "to +examine the coast, although it was high-water, I found the +ancient bed of the sea laid bare, and dry, with beds of oysters, +mussels, and other shells adhering to the rocks on which they +grew, the fish being all dead, and exhaling most offensive +effluvia. And I found good reason to believe that the coast had +been raised by earthquakes at former periods in a similar manner; +several ancient lines of beach, consisting OF SHINGLE MIXED WITH +SHELLS, extending, in a parallel direction to the shore, to the +height of fifty feet above the sea." Such an accumulation of +geological evidence, from different quarters and distinct classes +of phenomena, concurs to demonstrate the existence of most +powerful expansive forces within the earth, and to testify their +agency in producing the actual condition of its surface, that the +phenomena just now described are nothing more than what was to be +expected from previous induction. These facts, however, not only +place beyond dispute the existence of such forces, but show that, +even in detail, their effects accord most satisfactorily with the +predictions of theory. It is not, therefore, at all unreasonable +to conceive, that, in other situations, phenomena of the same +character have been produced by the same cause, though we may not +at present be enabled to trace its connexion with the existing +appearances so distinctly; and though the facts, when they +occurred, may have been unnoticed, or may have taken place at +periods beyond the reach of historical record, or even beyond the +possibility of human testimony.</p> +<blockquote>(*Footnote. Peron Voyage etc. volume 2 pages 165 to +183.)</blockquote> +<blockquote>(**Footnote. Geological Transactions Second Series +volume 1 page 403, 404.)</blockquote> +<blockquote>(***Footnote. The statements here referred to, are +those of Mrs. Graham, in a letter to Mr. Warburton, which has +been published in the Geological Transactions Second Series +volume 1 page 412, etc.; and the account is supported and +illustrated by a valuable paper in the Journal of the Royal +Institution for April 1824 volume 17 page 38 etc.) The writer of +this latter article asserts that the whole country, from the foot +of the Andes to far out at sea, was raised by the earthquake; the +greatest rise being at the distance of about two miles from the +shore. The rise upon the coast was from two to four feet: at the +distance of a mile, inland, it must have been from five to six, +or seven feet, pages 40, 45.)</blockquote> +<p>M. Peron has attributed the great abundance of the modern +breccia of New Holland to the large proportion of calcareous +matter, principally in the form of comminuted shells, which is +diffused through the siliceous sand of the shores in that +country;* and as the temperature, especially of the summer, is +very high on that part of the coast where this rock has been +principally found, the increased solution of carbonate of lime by +the percolating water, may possibly render its formation more +abundant there, than in more temperate climates. But the true +theory of these concretions, under any modification of +temperature, is attended with considerable difficulty: and it is +certain that the process is far from being confined to the warmer +latitudes. Dr. Paris has given an account of a modern formation +of sandstone on the northern coast of Cornwall;** where a large +surface is covered with a calcareous sand, that becomes +agglutinated into a stone, which he considers as analogous to the +rocks of Guadaloupe; and of which the specimens that I have seen, +resemble those presented by Captain Beaufort to the Geological +Society, from the shore at Rhodes. Dr. Paris ascribes this +concretion, not to the agency of the sea, nor to an excess of +carbonic acid, but to the solution of carbonate of lime itself in +water, and subsequent percolation through calcareous sand; the +great hardness of the stone arising from the very sparing +solubility of this carbonate, and the consequently very gradual +formation of the deposit--Dr. MacCulloch describes calcareous +concretions, found in banks of sand in Perthshire, which present +a great variety of stalactitic forms, generally more or less +complicated, and often exceedingly intricate and strange,*** and +which appear to be analogous to those of King George's Sound and +Sweer's Island: And he mentions, as not unfrequently occurring in +sand, in different parts of England (the sand above the fossil +bones of Norfolk is given as an example) long cylinders or tubes, +composed of sand agglutinated by carbonate of lime, or calcareous +stalactites entangling sand, which, like the concretions of +Madeira, and those taken for corals at Bald-Head, have been +ranked improperly, with organic remains.</p> +<blockquote>(*Footnote. Peron Voyage etc. 2 page +116.)</blockquote> +<blockquote>(**Footnote. Transactions of the Geological Society +of Cornwall volume 1 page 1 etc.)</blockquote> +<blockquote>(***Footnote. On an arenaceo-calcareous substance, +etc. Quarterly Journal Royal Institution October 1823 volume 16 +page 79 to 83.)</blockquote> +<p>The stone which forms the fragments in the breccia of New +Holland, is very nearly the same with that of the cement by which +they are united, the difference consisting only in the greater +proportion of sand which the fragments contain: and it would +seem, that after the consolidation of the former, and while the +deposition of similar calcareous matter was still in progress, +the portions first consolidated must have been shattered by +considerable violence. But, where no such fragments exist, the +unequal diffusion of components at first uniformly mixed, and +even the formation of nodules differing in proportions from the +paste which surrounds them, may perhaps admit of explanation, by +some process analogous to what takes place in the preparation of +the compound of which the ordinary earthenware is manufactured; +where, though the ingredients are divided by mechanical attrition +only, a sort of chemical action produces, under certain +circumstances, a new arrangement of the parts.* And this +explanation may, probably, be extended to those nodular +concretions, generally considered as contemporaneous with the +paste in which they are enveloped, the distinction of which, from +conglomerates of mechanical origin, forms, in many cases, a +difficulty in geology. What the degree may be, of subdivision +required to dispose the particles to act thus upon each other, or +of fluidity to admit of their action, remains still to be +determined.</p> +<blockquote>(*Footnote. The clay and pulverized flints are +combined for the use of the potter, by being first separately +diffused in water to the consistence of thick cream, and when +mixed in due proportion are reduced to a proper consistence by +evaporation. During this process, if the evaporation be not rapid +and immediate, or if the ingredients are left to act on each +other, even for twenty-four hours, the flinty particles unite +into sandy grains, and the mass becomes unfit for the purposes of +the manufacturer. I am indebted for this interesting fact, which, +I believe, is well known in some of the potteries, to my friend +Mr. Arthur Aikin. And Mr. Herschel informs me, that a similar +change takes place in recently precipitated carbonate of copper; +which, if left long moist, concretes into hard gritty grains, of +a green colour, much more difficultly soluble in ammonia than the +original precipitate.)</blockquote> +<p>6. As the superficial extent of Australia is more than +three-fourths of that of Europe, and the interior may be regarded +as unknown,* any theoretic inferences, from the slight geological +information hitherto obtained respecting this great island, are +very likely to be deceitful; but among the few facts already +ascertained respecting the northern portion of it, there are some +which appear to afford a glimpse of general structure.</p> +<p>Captain Flinders, in describing the position of the chains of +islands on the north-west coast of Carpentaria, Wessel's, the +English Company's, and Bromby's Islands, remarks, that he had +"frequently observed a great similarity both in the ground plans, +and the elevations of hills, and of islands, in the vicinity of +each other, but did not recollect another instance of such a +likeness in the arrangement of clusters of islands."* The +appearances which called for this observation, from a voyager of +so much sagacity and experience in physical geography, must +probably have been very remarkable; and, combined with +information derivable from the charts, and from the specimens for +which we are indebted to Captain King and Mr. Brown, they would +seem to point out the arrangement of the strata on the northern +coasts of New Holland.</p> +<blockquote>(*Footnote. The following are the proportions +assigned by Captain de Freycinet to the principal divisions of +the globe. Voyage aux Terres Australes page 107. +<p><b>COLUMN 1: DIVISION OF THE GLOBE.<br> +COLUMN 2: AREA IN FRENCH LEAGUES SQUARE.<br> +COLUMN 3: PROPORTION.</b></p> +<p>Asia : 2,200,000 : 17.<br> +America : 2,100,000 : 17.<br> +Africa : 1,560,000 : 12.<br> +Europe : 501,875 : 4.<br> +Australia : 384,375 : 3.</p> +<p>The most remote points from the coast of New South Wales, to +which the late expeditions have penetrated (and the interior has +never yet been examined in any other quarter) are not above 500 +miles, in a direct line from the sea; the average width of the +island from east to west being more than 2000 miles, and from +north to south more than 1000 miles.)</p> +</blockquote> +<blockquote>(*Footnote. Flinders 5 2 page 246; and Charts, Plates +14 and 15. King's Charts, Plate 4.)</blockquote> +<p>Of the three ranges which attracted Captain Flinders' notice +(see the Map) the first on the south-east (3, 4, 5, 6, 7) is that +which includes the Red Cliffs, Mallison's Island, a part of the +coast of Arnhem's Land, from Cape Newbold to Cape Wilberforce, +and Bromby's Isles; and its length, from the mainland (3) on the +south-west of Mallison's Island, to Bromby's Isles (7) is more +than fifty miles, in a direction nearly from south-west to +north-east. The English Company's Islands (2, 2, 2, 2) at a +distance of about four miles, are of equal extent; and the +general trending of them all, Captain Flinders states (page 233) +is nearly North-East by East, parallel with the line of the main +coast, and with Bromby's Islands. Wessel's Islands (1, 1, 1, 1) +the third or most northern chain, at fourteen miles from the +second range, stretch out to more than eighty miles from the +mainland, likewise in the same direction.</p> +<center> +<p><a name="king2-12"></a><img alt="" src="images/king2-12.jpg"></p> +<p><b>MAP OF THE CHAINS OF ISLANDS ON THE NORTH-WEST COAST OF +CARPENTARIA</b></p> +</center> +<p>Â </p> +<p>It is also stated by Captain Flinders, that three of the +English Company's Islands which were examined, slope down nearly +to the water on their west sides; but on the east, and more +especially the south-east, they present steep cliffs; and the +same conformation, he adds, seemed to prevail in the other +islands.* If this structure occurred only in one or two +instances, it might be considered as accidental; but as it +obtains in so many cases, and is in harmony with the direction of +the ranges, it is not improbably of still more extensive +occurrence, and would intimate a general elevation of the strata +towards the south-east.</p> +<blockquote>(*Footnote. Flinders Volume 2 page 235.)</blockquote> +<p>Now on examining the general map, it will be seen, that the +lines of the coast on the mainland, west of the Gulf of +Carpentaria, between Limmen's Bight and Cape Arnhem--from the +bottom of Castlereagh Bay to Point Dale--less distinctly from +Point Pearce, latitude 14 degrees 23 minutes, longitude 129 +degrees 18 minutes, to the western extremity of Cobourg +Peninsula, and from Point Coulomb, latitude 17 degrees 20 +minutes, longitude 123 degrees 11 minutes, to Cape Londonderry, +have nearly the same direction; the first line being about one +hundred and eighty geographical miles, the second more than three +hundred, and the last more than four hundred miles, in length.* +And these lines, though broken by numerous irregularities, +especially on the north-west coast, are yet sufficiently distinct +to indicate a probable connexion with the geological structure of +the country; since the coincidence of similar ranges of coast +with the direction of the strata, is a fact of very frequent +occurrence in other parts of the globe.** And it is observable +that considerable uniformity exists in the specimens, from the +different places in this quarter of New Holland which have been +hitherto examined; sandstone, like that of the older formations +of Europe occurring generally on the north and north-west coasts, +and appearing to be extensively diffused on the north-west of the +Gulf of Carpentaria, where it reposes upon primitive +rocks.***</p> +<blockquote>(*Footnote. It is deserving of notice, that the coast +of Timor, the nearest land on the north-west, at the distance of +about 300 miles, is also nearly straight, and parallel to the +Coast of New Holland in this quarter: part of the mountainous +range, of which that island consists, being probably more than +9000 feet high; and its length, from the north-eastern extremity +to the South-West of the adjoining island of Rottee, about 300 +miles. But, unfortunately for the hypothesis, a chain of islands +immediately on the north of Timor, is continued nearly in a right +line for more than 1200 miles (from Sermatta Island to the +south-eastern extremity of Java) in a direction FROM EAST TO +WEST. This chain, however, contains several volcanoes, including +those of Sumbawa, the eruption of which, in 1815, was of +extraordinary violence. See Royal Inst. Journal volume 1 1816 +page 248 etc. +<p>At Lacrosse Island, in the mouth of Cambridge Gulf, on the +north-west coast of New Holland, the beds rise to the North-West: +their direction consequently is from South-West to North-East; +and the rise towards the high land of Timor. The intervening sea +is very shallow.)</p> +</blockquote> +<blockquote>(**Footnote. A remarkable case of this kind, which +has not, I believe, been noticed, occurs in the Mediterranean; +and is conspicuous in the new chart of that sea, by Captain W.H. +Smyth. The eastern coast of Corsica and Sardinia, for a space of +more than two hundred geographical miles being nearly +rectilinear, in a direction from north to south; and, Captain +Smyth has informed me, consisting almost entirely of granite, or, +at least, of primitive rocks. The coast of Norway affords another +instance of the same description; and the details of the ranges +in the interior of England furnish several examples of the same +kind, on a smaller scale.)</blockquote> +<blockquote>(***Footnote. The coastlines nearly at rightangles to +those above-mentioned--from the South-East of the Gulf of +Carpentaria to Limmen's Bight, from Cape Arnhem to Cape Croker, +and from Cape Domett to Cape Londonderry--have also a certain +degree of linearity; but much less remarkable, than those which +run from South-West to North-East.)</blockquote> +<p>The horn-like projection of the land, on the east of the Gulf +of Carpentaria, is a very prominent feature in the general map of +Australia, and may possibly have some connexion with the +structure just pointed out. The western shore of this horn, from +the bottom of the gulf to Endeavour Straits, being very low; +while the land on the east coast rises in proceeding towards the +south, and after passing Cape Weymouth, latitude 12 degrees 30 +minutes, is in general mountainous and abrupt; and Captain King's +specimens from the north-east coast show that granite is found in +so many places along this line as to make it probable that +primitive rocks may form the general basis of the country in that +quarter; since a lofty chain of mountains is continued on the +south of Cape Tribulation, not far from the shore, throughout a +space of more than five hundred miles. It would carry this +hypothesis too far to infer that these primitive ranges are +connected with the mountains on the west of the English +settlements near Port Jackson, etc., where Mr. Scott has +described the coal-measures as occupying the coast from Port +Stevens, about latitude 33 degrees to Cape Howe, latitude 37 +degrees, and as succeeded, on the eastern ascent of the Blue +Mountains, by sandstone, and this again by primitive strata:* But +it may be noticed that Wilson's Promontory, the most southern +point of New South Wales, and the principal islands in Bass +Strait, contain granite; and that primitive rocks occur +extensively in Van Diemen's Land.</p> +<blockquote>(*Footnote. Annals of Philosophy June +1824.)</blockquote> +<p>The uniformity of the coastlines is remarkable also in some +other quarters of Australia; and their direction, as well as that +of the principal openings, has a general tendency to a course +from the west of south to the east of north. This, for example, +is the general range of the south-east coast, from Cape Howe, +about latitude 37 degrees, to Cape Byron, latitude 29 degrees, or +even to Sandy Cape, latitude 25 degrees; and of the western +coast, from the south of the islands which enclose Shark's Bay, +latitude 26 degrees, to North-west Cape, about latitude 22 +degrees. From Cape Hamelin, latitude 34 degrees 12 minutes, to +Cape Naturaliste, latitude 33 degrees 26 minutes, the coast runs +nearly on the meridian. The two great fissures of the south +coast, Spencer's, and St. Vincent's Gulfs, as well as the great +northern chasm of the Gulf of Carpentaria, have a corresponding +direction; and Captain Flinders (Chart 4) represents a high ridge +of rocky and barren mountains, on the east of Spencer's Gulf, as +continued, nearly from north to south, through a space of more +than one hundred geographical miles, between latitude 32 degrees +7 minutes and 34 degrees. Mount Brown, one of the summits of this +ridge, about latitude 32 degrees 30 minutes, being visible at the +distance of twenty leagues.</p> +<p>The tendency of all this evidence is somewhat in favour of a +general parallelism in the range of the strata, and perhaps of +the existence of primary ranges of mountains on the east of +Australia in general, from the coast about Cape Weymouth* to the +shore between Spencer's Gulf and Cape Howe. But it must not be +forgotten, that the distance between these shores is more than a +thousand miles in a direct line; about as far as from the west +coast of Ireland to the Adriatic, or double the distance between +the Baltic and the Mediterranean. If, however, future researches +should confirm the indications above mentioned, a new case will +be supplied in support of the principle long since advanced by +Mr. Michell,** which appears (whatever theory be formed to +explain it) to be established by geological observation in so +many other parts of the world, that the outcrop of the inclined +beds, throughout the stratified portion of the globe, is +everywhere parallel to the longer ridges of mountains, towards +which, also, the elevation of the strata is directed. But in the +present state of our information respecting Australia, all such +general views are so very little more than mere conjecture, that +the desire to furnish ground for new inquiry, is, perhaps, the +best excuse that can be offered for having proposed them.</p> +<blockquote>(*Footnote. The possible correspondence of the great +Australian Bight, the coast of which in general is of no great +elevation, with the deeply-indented Gulf of Carpentaria, tending, +as it were, to a division of this great island into two, accords +with this hypothesis of mountain ranges: but the distance between +these recesses, over the land at the nearest points, is not less +than a thousand English miles. The granite, on the south coast, +at Investigator's Islands, and westward, at Middle Island, Cape +Le Grand, King George's Sound, and Cape Naturaliste, is very wide +of the line above-mentioned, and nothing is yet known of its +relations.)</blockquote> +<blockquote>(**Footnote. On the Cause of Earthquakes. +Philosophical Transactions 1760 volume 51 page 566 to 585, +586.)</blockquote> +<hr align="center" width="20%"> +<h3>DETAILED LIST OF SPECIMENS.</h3> +<p>The specimens mentioned in the following list have been +compared with some of those of England and other countries, +principally in the cabinets of the Geological Society, and of Mr. +Greenough; and with a collection from part of the confines of the +primitive tracts of England and North Wales, formed by Mr. Arthur +Aikin, and now in his own possession. Captain King's collection +has been presented to the Geological Society; and duplicates of +Mr. Brown's specimens are deposited in the British Museum.</p> +<p>RODD'S BAY, on the East Coast, discovered by Captain King, +about sixty miles south of Cape Capricorn.* Reddish sandstone, of +moderately-fine grain, resembling that which in England occurs in +the coal formation, and beneath it (mill-stone grit). A sienitic +compound, consisting of a large proportion of reddish felspar, +with specks of a green substance, probably mica; resembling a +rock from Shap in Cumberland.</p> +<blockquote>(*Footnote. In Captain King's collection are also +specimens found on the beach at Port Macquarie, and in the bed of +the Hastings River, of common serpentine, and of botryoidal +magnesite, from veins in serpentine. The magnesite agrees nearly +with that of Baudissero, in Piedmont. (See Cleaveland's +Mineralogy 1st edition page 345.)</blockquote> +<p>CAPE CLINTON, between Rodd's Bay and the Percy Islands. +Porphyritic conglomerate, with a base of decomposed felspar, +enclosing grains of quartz and common felspar, and some fragments +of what appears to be compact epidote; very nearly resembling +specimens from the trap rocks* of the Wrekin and Breeden Hills in +Shropshire. Reddish and yellowish sandy clay, coloured by oxide +of iron, and used as pigments by the natives.</p> +<blockquote>(*Footnote. By the terms Trap, and Trap-formation, +which I am aware are extremely vague, I intend merely to signify +a class of rocks, including several members, which differ from +each other considerably in mineralogical character, but agree in +some of their principal geological relations; and the origin of +which very numerous phenomena concur in referring to some +modification of volcanic agency. The term Greenstone also is of +very loose application, and includes rocks that exhibit a wide +range of characters; the predominant colour being some shade of +green, the structure more or less crystalline, and the chief +ingredients supposed to be hornblende and felspar, but the +components, if they could be accurately determined, probably more +numerous and varied, than systematic lists imply.)</blockquote> +<p>PERCY ISLANDS, about one hundred and forty miles north of Cape +Capricorn. Compact felspar of a flesh-red hue, enclosing a few +small crystals of reddish felspar and of quartz. This specimen is +marked "general character of the rocks at Percy Island," and very +much resembles the compact felspar of the Pentland Hills near +Edinburgh, and of Saxony. Coarse porphyritic conglomerate, of a +reddish hue. Serpentine. A trap-like compound, with somewhat the +aspect of serpentine, but yielding with difficulty to the knife. +This specimen has, at first sight, the appearance of a +conglomerate, made up of portions of different hues, purplish, +brown, and green; but the coloured parts are not otherwise +distinguishable in the fracture: It very strongly resembles a +rock which occurs in the trap-formation, near Lyd-Hole, at +Pont-y-Pool, in Shropshire. Slaty clay, with particles of mica, +like that which frequently occurs immediately beneath beds of +coal.</p> +<p>REPULSE ISLAND, in Repulse Bay, about one hundred and twenty +miles north-west of the Percy Islands. Indistinct specimens, +apparently consisting of decomposed compact felspar. A compound +of quartz, mica, and felspar, having the appearance of +re-composed granite.</p> +<p>CAPE CLEVELAND, about one hundred and twenty miles north of +Repulse Island. Yellowish-grey granite, with brown mica; "from +the summit of the hill." Reddish granite, of very fine grain; +with the aspect of sandstone. Dark grey porphyritic hornstone, +approaching to compact felspar, with imbedded crystals of +felspar.</p> +<p>CAPE GRAFTON, about one hundred and eighty miles west of north +from Cape Cleveland. Close-grained grey and yellowish-grey +granite, with brown mica. A reddish granitic stone, composed of +quartz, felspar, and tourmaline.</p> +<p>ENDEAVOUR RIVER, about one hundred miles west of north from +Cape Grafton. Grey granite of several varieties; from a peaked +hill under Mount Cook and its vicinity. Granular quartz-rock of +several varieties: and indistinct specimens of a rock approaching +to talc-slate.</p> +<p>LIZARD ISLAND, about fifty miles east of north from Endeavour +River. Grey granite, consisting of brown and white mica, quartz, +and a large proportion of felspar somewhat decomposed.</p> +<p>CLACK ISLAND, near Cape Flinders, on the north-west of Cape +Melville, about ninety miles north-west of Lizard Island. +Smoke-grey micaceous slaty-clay, much like certain beds of the +old red sandstone, where it graduates into grey wacke. This +specimen was taken from a horizontal bed about ten feet in +thickness, reposing upon a mass of pudding-stone, which included +large pebbles of quartz and jasper; and above it was a mass of +sandstone, more than sixty feet thick. (Narrative volume 2.)</p> +<p>SUNDAY ISLAND, near Cape Grenville, about one hundred and +seventy miles west of north from Cape Melville. Compact felspar, +of a flesh-red colour; very nearly resembling that of the Percy +Islands, above-mentioned.</p> +<p>GOOD'S ISLAND, one of the Prince of Wales group, about +latitude 10 degrees, thirty-four miles north-west of Cape York. +The specimens, in Mr. Brown's collection from this place, consist +of coarse-slaty porphyritic conglomerate, with a base of +greenish-grey compact felspar, containing crystals of reddish +felspar and quartz. This rock has some resemblance to that of +Clack Island above-mentioned.</p> +<p>SWEER'S ISLAND, south of Wellesley's group, at the bottom of +the Gulf of Carpentaria. A stalactitic concretion of quartzose +sand, and fine gravel, cemented by reddish carbonate of lime; +apparently of the same nature with the stem-like concretions of +King George's Sound: (See hereafter.) In this specimen the +tubular cavity of the stalactite is still open.</p> +<p>The shore, in various parts of this island, was found to +consist of red ferruginous matter (Bog-iron-ore ?) sometimes +unmixed, but not unfrequently mingled with a sandy calcareous +stone; and in some places rounded portions of the ferruginous +matter were enveloped in a calcareous cement.</p> +<p>BENTINCK ISLAND, near Sweer's Island. A granular compound, +like sandstone recomposed from the debris of granite. Brown +hematite, enclosing quartzose sand.</p> +<p>PISONIA ISLAND, on the east of Mornington's Island, is +composed of calcareous breccia and pudding-stone, which consist +of a sandy calcareous cement, including water-worn portions of +reddish ferruginous matter, with fragments of shells.</p> +<p>NORTH ISLAND, one of Sir Edward Pellew's group. Coarse +siliceous sand, concreted by ferruginous matter; which, in some +places, is in the state of brown hematite. Calcareous +incrustations, including fragments of madrepores, and of shells, +cemented by splintery carbonate of lime.</p> +<p>CAPE-MARIA ISLAND, in Limmen's Bight, was found by Mr. Brown +to be composed principally of sandstone. The specimens from this +place, however, consist of grey splintery hornstone, with traces +of a slaty structure; and of yellowish-grey flint, approaching to +chalcedony; with a coarse variety of cacholong, containing small +nests of quartz crystals.</p> +<p>GROOTE EYLANDT is composed of sandstone, of which two +different varieties occur among the specimens. A quartzose +reddish sandstone, of moderately fine grain; and a coarse reddish +compound, consisting almost exclusively of worn pebbles of +quartz, some of which are more than half an inch in diameter, +with a few rounded pebbles of chalcedony. The latter rock is +nearly identical with that of Simms' Island, near Goulburn's +Island on the north coast.</p> +<p>CHASM ISLAND, WINCHELSEA ISLAND, and BURNEY'S ISLAND, are of +the same materials as Groote Eylandt: and sandstone was found +also on the western shore of BLUE-MUD BAY.</p> +<p>On the shore of the mainland, opposite to Groote Eylandt, a +little north of latitude 14 degrees, Mr. Brown observed the +common sandy calcareous stone, projecting here and there in +ragged fragments.</p> +<p>MORGAN'S ISLAND, in Blue-Mud Bay, north-west of Groote +Eylandt, is composed principally of clink-stone, sometimes +indistinctly columnar. But among the specimens are also a coarse +conglomerate of a dull purplish colour, including pebbles of +granular quartz and a fragment of a slaty rock like potstone: the +hue and aspect of the compound being precisely those of the +oldest sandstones. Reddish quartzose sandstone, of uniform and +fine grain. A concretion of rounded quartz pebbles, cemented by +ferruginous matter, apparently of recent formation.</p> +<p>ROUND HILL, near Cape Grindall, a prominence east of north +from Blue-Mud Bay, was found by Captain Flinders to consist, at +the upper part, of sandstone. The specimens of the rocks in its +vicinity are, dark grey granite, somewhat approaching to gneiss, +with a few specks of garnet; and a calcareous, probably +concretional stone, enclosing the remains of shells, with +cavities lined with crystals of calcareous spar.</p> +<p>MOUNT CALEDON, on the mainland, west of Caledon Bay, consists +of grey granite, with dark brown mica in small quantity; and on +the sides and top of the hill large loose blocks of that rock +were observed, resting upon other blocks.</p> +<p>A small island, near Cape Arnhem, is also composed of granite, +in which the felspar has a bluish hue.</p> +<p>Smaller of the MELVILLE ISLANDS, north-east of Melville Bay.* +A botryoidal mass of ferruginous oxide of manganese, approaching +to hematite; the fissures in some places occupied by carbonate of +lime.</p> +<blockquote>(*Footnote. The relative position of the islands and +bays on this part of the coast is represented in the enlarged +Map.)</blockquote> +<p>MELVILLE BAY. Granite, composed of grey and somewhat bluish +felspar, dark brown mica, and a little quartz; containing minute +disseminated specks of molybdena, and indistinct crystals of pale +red garnet.</p> +<p>RED CLIFFS, south-west of Arnhem Bay; on the line of the first +chain of islands mentioned by Captain Flinders. (See the Map, +figure 3.) Friable conglomerate, of a full brick-red colour, +consisting of minute grains of quartz, with a large proportion of +ochreous matter.</p> +<p>MALLISON'S ISLAND. (Map, figure 4.) The cliffs of this island +are composed of a fissile primitive rock, on which sandstone +reposes in regular beds. The specimen of the former resembles +gneiss, or mica slate, near the contact with granite: the +sandstone is thick-slaty, quartzose, of a reddish hue, with mica +disseminated on the surfaces of the joints; and one face of the +specimen is incrusted with quartz crystals, thinly coated with +botryoidal hematite. Light grey quartzose sandstone of a fine +grain, with a thin coating of brown hematite, was also found in +this island: And a breccia, consisting of angular fragments of +sandstone, cemented by thin, vein-like, coatings of dark brown +hematite, was found there, in loose blocks at the bottom of +perpendicular cliffs. The specimen of this breccia is attached to +a plate of granular quartz, and may possibly have been part of a +vein.</p> +<p>The shore of INGLIS' ISLAND, the largest of the ENGLISH +COMPANY'S RANGE (2. 2. 2. in the Map) is formed of flat beds, of +a slaty argillaceous rock, which breaks into rhomboidal +fragments; but the specimen is indistinct. Ferruginous masses, +probably consisting of brown hematite, come also from this +island.</p> +<p>ASTELL'S ISLAND, north-east of Inglis' Isle. Very fine-grained +greyish-white quartzose sandstone; identical with that of +Mallison's Island, and very closely resembling some of the +specimens from Prince Regent's and Hunter's Rivers.</p> +<p>Among the remaining islands of this range, BOSANQUET'S, +COTTON'S, and POBASSOO's Isles, were found by Mr. Brown to +consist, in a great measure, of sandstone, of the same character +with the specimens above-mentioned.</p> +<p>POBASSOO'S ISLAND, a small islet south-east of Astell's Isle. +Fine-grained, somewhat reddish, sandstone. Another specimen of +sandstone is friable, of a light flesh-red colour, and apparently +composed of the debris of granite. A crystalline rock, consisting +of greenish-grey hornblende, with a very small proportion of +felspar (Hornblende rock ?). Fragment, apparently from a columnar +mass, of a stone intermediate between clink-stone and compact +felspar.</p> +<p>Such of the English Company's Islands as were examined by +Captain Flinders, are stated by him to consist, in the upper +part, of a grit, or sandstone, of a close texture; the lower part +being argillaceous, and stratified, and separating into pieces of +a reddish colour, resembling flat tiles. The strata-dip to the +west, at an angle of about 15 degrees.</p> +<p>South-west bay of GOULBURN'S SOUTH ISLAND, two hundred and +fifty miles west of the Gulf of Carpentaria (Narrative 1). +Coarse-grained reddish quartzose conglomerate and sandstone; +resembling the older sandstones of England and Wales, and +especially the mill-stone grit beneath the coal formation. Fine +greyish-white pipe-clay; of which about thirty feet in thickness +were visible, apparently above the sandstone last mentioned. +Coarse-grained, ferruginous sandstone, containing fragments of +quartz, from above the pipe-clay. The appearance of the cliff +from which these specimens were taken, is represented in the view +of the bay on the south of Goulburn Island (volume 1); and a +distant head in the view consists of the same materials.</p> +<p>SIMMS ISLAND, on the west of Goulburn's south Island +(Narrative 1) is composed of a reddish conglomerate, nearly +identical with some of the specimens above-mentioned.</p> +<p>The western side of LETHBRIDGE BAY, on the north of MELVILLE +ISLAND, consists of a range of cliffs like those at Goulburn's +Island; the upper part being red, the lower white and composed of +pipe-clay. The western extremity of BATHURST ISLAND, between CAPE +HELVETIUS and CAPE FOURCROY, is also formed of cliffs of a very +dark red colour.</p> +<p>LACROSSE ISLAND, at the mouth of CAMBRIDGE GULF, about one +hundred miles from Port Keats. Reddish, very quartzose sandstone; +from a stratum which dips to the south-east, at an angle of about +ten or fifteen degrees. Micaceous and argillaceous fissile +sandstone, of purplish and greenish hues, in patches, or +occasionally intermixed; precisely resembling the rock of Brecon, +in South Wales, and, generally, the old red sandstone of the +vicinity of Bristol and the confines of England and Wales. +Fine-grained thin-slaty sandstone, resembling certain beds of the +coal formation, or of the millstone grit, is found in large +masses, under an argillaceous cliff, on the north side of +Lacrosse Island.</p> +<p>The specimens from the interior of Cambridge Gulf are from +ADOLPHUS ISLAND, and consist of reddish and grey sandstone, more +or less decomposed.</p> +<p>VANSITTART BAY, about one hundred and forty miles north-west +of Cambridge Gulf. Reddish quartzose sandstone, or quartz-rock. +Indistinct specimens of greenstone, with adhering quartz; +apparently a primitive rock.</p> +<p>PORT WARRENDER, at the bottom of Admiralty Gulf, about forty +miles south-west of Vansittart Bay (Narrative volume 1). Epidote +and quartz, in small crystals confusedly interlaced; apparently +from veins, or nests, but unaccompanied by any portion of the +adjacent rock. The structure in one of these specimens approaches +to the amygdaloidal. A compact greenish stone, with disseminated +crystalline spots of epidote, and of quartz, and apparently +consisting of an intimate mixture of those minerals, is also +among the specimens from Port Warrender.</p> +<p>All these specimens are from detached water-worn masses at the +foot of Crystal Head, on the south-west of the port. The summit +of the head is flat and tabular, and the rocks in the vicinity +are described by Captain King as consisting of siliceous +sandstone. Chalcedony, apparently from amygdaloid of the trap +formation, was also found at Port Warrender.</p> +<p>The epidote of this place is in general of a pale-greenish +colour, but is mixed with, and sometimes appears to pass into, +spots of a rich purplish-brown. The specimens resemble generally +the epidote of Dauphiny and Siberia; but Mr. Levy, who has been +so good as to examine them, informs me that the crystals exhibit +some modifications not described either by Hauy, or by Mr. +Haidinger in his paper on this mineral, and which are probably +peculiar to this locality.</p> +<p>WATER ISLAND, on the west side of CAPE VOLTAIRE, at the +south-west entrance of Port Warrender, is described (volume 1) as +consisting of quartzose sandstone; as is also KATER ISLAND, in +Montagu Sound. And the same rock appears to occur throughout the +islands on this part of the coast. (Narrative 1.)</p> +<p>MONTAGU SOUND, about five-and-twenty miles south-west of +ADMIRALTY GULF (Narrative 1). Greyish granular quartz; like that +of the Lickey Hill, in Worcestershire. Fine-grained quartzose +sandstone, of a purplish hue, resembling a rock on the banks of +the Severn, near Bridgenorth. Grey and reddish sandstone; +apparently composed of the debris of granite, and very nearly +resembling that of Simms Island above-mentioned.</p> +<p>HUNTER'S RIVER, falling into YORK SOUND, on the north-east +side. Somewhat coarse reddish-white sandstone; like that of the +coal formation, and some varieties of millstone grit. +Fine-grained, reddish-grey quartzose sandstone, having the +appearance of stratification, and resembling the rocks of +Cambridge Gulf.</p> +<p>ROE'S RIVER, at the eastern termination of York Sound +(Narrative 1) runs between precipitous banks of sandstone, in +nearly horizontal strata, which rise to the height of three +hundred feet.</p> +<p>CAREENING BAY, between York Sound and Prince Regent's River +(Narrative volume 1. See the plate volume 1). Crystalline +epidote, and whitish quartz, apparently from a vein. +Purplish-brown epidote, with small nests or concretions of green +epidote and quartz; forming a sort of amygdaloid. Conglomerate, +containing angular fragments of yellowish-grey quartz-rock, in a +base of compact epidote. A nearly uniform greenish compound of +epidote intimately mixed with quartz, also occurs at this place. +Flat lamellar chalcedony. Very fine-grained reddish-grey +quartzose sandstone, with traces of a slaty structure, resembling +that of York Sound, and Cambridge Gulf, was found in the +north-east end of this bay; and fine-grained greenstone, on the +summit of the adjacent hills.</p> +<p>Several of these specimens are almost identical with those of +Port Warrender; from which place Careening Bay is distant about +sixty miles.</p> +<p>BAT ISLAND (Narrative volume 1) western entrance of Careening +Bay. Quartz from thin veins, with particles of an adhering rock, +probably chlorite-slate. Quartz, containing disseminated +hematitic iron-ore and copper pyrites. Quartz crystals, with +chalcedony, from nodules in amygdaloid. Quartz with specular iron +ore. Greenstone, with chalcedony and copper pyrites. A decomposed +stone, probably consisting of wacke. The specimens of trap-rocks +from this place are from a cavern.</p> +<p>GREVILLE ISLAND, near the entrance of Prince Regent's River. +Reddish, coarsely granular, siliceous sandstone; in horizontal +strata, intersected by veins of crystallized quartz.*</p> +<blockquote>(*Footnote. Narrative volume 2.)</blockquote> +<p>HALF-WAY BAY, within Prince Regent's River on the west of the +entrance, near Greville Island. Hornblende rock ? nearly agreeing +with that of Pobassoo's Island, on the north-west of the Gulf of +Carpentaria (see above). Calcedony, apparently from nodules in +amygdaloid. Greenish quartz, approaching to heliotrope. Red, +somewhat slaty jasper, mixed with quartz and chalcedony, and +containing specular iron ore.</p> +<p>The specimens from this place much resemble some of those from +Sotto i Sassi, in the Val di Fassa in the Tyrol, which I have +seen in the collection of Mr. Herschel; and which consist of +reddish jasper with chalcedony, and a greenish flinty stone, like +heliotrope, the whole belonging to the trap-formation.</p> +<p>POINT CUNNINGHAM, east of south from Cape Leveque, and about +one hundred and fifty miles south-west of Prince Regent's River. +Very compact and fine-grained reddish granular quartz, with a +glistening lustre, and flat conchoidal fracture. This stone, +though so compact in the recent fracture, has distinct traces of +stratification on the decomposed surface, which is of a dull +reddish hue. Bright red ferruginous granular quartz (Eisen-kiesel +?) with a glistening lustre, and a somewhat porous texture. A +specimen of the soil of the hills at Cygnet Bay, consists of very +fine reddish-yellow quartzose sand. A large rounded pebble, +consisting of ferruginous granular quartz, of a dark +purplish-brown colour, and considerable density, was found here; +near a fireplace of the natives, by whom it is used for making +their hatchets; with a fragment of a calcareous incrustation, +like that of the west coast hereafter mentioned.</p> +<p>The next specimens in Captain King's collection--a space of +more than three hundred miles on this coast not having been +examined by him--are from MALUS ISLAND, in Dampier's Archipelago +(see Narrative volume 1) they consist of fine-grained greenstone, +and what appears to be a basaltic rock, of amygdaloidal +structure.</p> +<p>DIRK HARTOG'S ISLAND, west of Shark's Bay. A compound of +rather fine-grained translucent quartzose sand, cemented by +carbonate of lime, of various shades of reddish and yellowish +grey. This stone has in some places the structure of a breccia; +the angles of the imbedded fragments, which are from half an inch +to two inches in diameter, being very distinct--but in other +parts, the fracture exhibits the appearance of roundish nodules, +composed of concentric shells--or bags as it were, of calcareous +matter, which vary in colour, and are filled with a mixture of +the same substance and quartzose sand: and the spaces between +these nodules are likewise occupied by a similar compound.*</p> +<blockquote>(*Footnote. The following description given by the +French naturalists of the rocks at Bernier's Islands, was +probably taken from a large suite of specimens; and M. Peron +states (1 page 204) that it is strictly applicable to all the +adjacent parts of the continent, and of the islands that were +examined by the French voyagers: +<p>Le sable du rivage (de l'ile Bernier) est quartzeux, mele +d'une grande proportion de debris calcaires fortement attenues. +La substance de l'ile meme se compose, dans ses couches +inferieures, d'un gres calcaire coquillier, tantot blanchatre, +tantot rougeatre, depose par couches horizontales, dont +l'epaisseur varie de 2 a 8 decimetres (7 a 11 pouces) et qui +toutes etant tres uniformes dans leur prolongement, pourroient +offrir a la maconnerie des pierres de construction naturellement +taillees.</p> +<p>Les coquilles incrustees dans ces massifs des roches sont +presque toutes univalves; elles apartiennent plus +particulierement au genre Natice de M. de Lamarck, et ont les +plus grands rapports avec l'espece de Natice qui se trouve +vivante au pied de ces rochers. Elles sont sans doute petrifiees +depuis bien des siecles, car, outre qu'il est tres difficile de +les retirer intactes du milieu de ces gres, tant leur adhesion +avec eux est intime, on les observe encore a plus de 50 metres +(150 pieds) au dessus du niveau actuel de la mer.</p> +<p>Quelque regularite que ces bancs puissent affecter dans leur +disposition generale, ils ne sont cependant pas tous homogenes +dans leur substance; il est sur-tout une variete de ces roches +plus remarquable par sa structure. Ce sont des galets calcaires, +agreges dans une terre sablonneuse ocracee, qui leur est +tellement adherente, qu'on ne sauroit detruire cette espece de +gangue sans les briser eux memes. Tous ces galets affectent la +forme globlueuse, et se composent d'un grand nombre de zones +concentriques, qui se developpent autour d'un noyau central d'un +gres scintillant et brunatre. Ces diverses couches ont a peine +quelques millimitres d'epaisseur, et affectent des nuances +agreables, qui varient depuis le rouge-fonce jusqu'au +jaune-clair. La disposition generale de cette breche lui donne +donc quelques rapports grossiers avec le granit globuleux de +l'ile de Corse; et, par ses couches rubanees, concentriques, elle +a quelque chose de l'aspect des Agathes-Onyx...Les bancs de gres +divers dont je viens de parler, constituent, a bien dire, la +masse entiere du pays qui nous occupe, etc. (Volume 1 page 110. +See also Freycinet page 187.)</p> +</blockquote> +The cementing limestone in the rock of this island, is very like +some of the more compact portions of the stone of Guadaloupe, +which contains the human skeletons, the hardness and fracture +being nearly the same in both. The chief difference of these +rocks seems to arise from the nature of the cemented substances; +which, in the Guadaloupe stone, being themselves calcareous, are +incorporated, or melted as it were, into the cement, by +insensible gradation;* while the quartzose sand, in that of Dirk +Hartog's Island, is strongly contrasted with the calcareous +matter that surrounds it.** But, wherever the imbedded fragments +in the latter consist of limestone, their union with the cement +is complete. +<blockquote>(*Footnote. See Mr. Koenig's Paper. Philosophical +Transactions volume 104 1814 page 107 etc.)</blockquote> +<blockquote>(**Footnote. Captain King informs me that the +soundings in this part of the coast bring up a very fine +quartzose-sand like that cemented in the breccia.)</blockquote> +<p>ROTTNEST ISLAND, about four hundred and fifty miles south of +Dirk Hartog's Island. Indistinct specimens containing numerous +fragments of shells, in a calcareous cement; the substance of +these shells has at first sight the appearance of chalcedony, and +is harder than ordinary carbonate of lime.</p> +<p>The characters of the shells in Captain King's specimens from +this place are indistinct; but the specimens at the Jardin du +Roi, which, there is reason to suppose, have come from this part +of the coast, contain shells of several species, belonging among +others to the genera, corbula, chama, cardium, porcellanea, +turbo, cerithium. M. Prevost, to whom I am indebted for this +account, observes that notwithstanding the recent appearance of +the shells, the beds which contain them are stated to occur at a +considerable height above the sea: and he remarks that the aspect +of the rock is very like that of the shelly deposits of St. +Hospice, near Nice.</p> +<p>KING GEORGE'S SOUND, on the south coast, east of south from +Cape Leeuwin. Beautifully white and fine quartzose sand, from the +sea-beach. Yellowish grey granite, from Bald-head. Two varieties +of a calcareous rock, of the same nature with that of Dirk +Hartog's Island; consisting of particles of translucent quartzose +sand, united by a cement of yellowish or cream-coloured carbonate +of lime, which has a flat conchoidal and splintery fracture, and +is so hard as to yield with difficulty to the knife. In this +compound, there are not any distinct angular fragments, as in the +stone of Dirk Hartog's Islands; but the calcareous matter is very +unequally diffused.</p> +<p>A third form in which this recent calcareous matter appears, +is that of irregular, somewhat tortuous, stem-like bodies, with a +rugged sandy surface, and from half an inch to an inch in +diameter; the cross fracture of which shows that they are +composed of sand, cemented by carbonate of lime, either uniformly +mixed throughout, or forming a crust around calcareous matter of +a spongy texture; in which latter case they have some resemblance +to the trunks or roots of trees. A mass, which seems to have been +of this description, is stated to have come from a height of +about two hundred and fifty feet above the sea, at Bald-head, on +the South Coast of Australia. These specimens, however, do not +really exhibit any traces of organic structure; and so nearly +resemble the irregular stalactitical concretions produced by the +passage of calcareous or ferruginous solutions through sand* that +they are probably of the same origin; indeed the central cavity +of the stalactite still remains open in some of the specimens of +this kind from Sweer's Island in the Gulf of Carpentaria. The +specimens from Madeira, presented to the Geological Society by +Mr. Bowdich, and described in his notes on that island,** appear +upon examination to be of the same character. But there is no +reason to suppose that the trunks of trees, as well as other +foreign substances, may not be thus incrusted, since various +foreign bodies, even of artificial production, have been so +found. Professor Buckland has mentioned a specimen of concreted +limestone from St. Helena, which contains the recent shell of a +bird's egg;*** and M. Peron states that, in the concretional +limestone rock of the South Coast of New Holland, the trunks of +trees occur, with the vegetable structure so distinct as to leave +no doubt as to their nature.****</p> +<blockquote>(*Footnote. Tubular concretions of ferruginous +matter, irregularly ramifying through sand, like the roots of +trees, are described by Captain Lyon as occurring in Africa. +Lyon's Travels Appendix page 65.)</blockquote> +<blockquote>(**Footnote. Excursions in Madeira 1825 page 139, +140; and Bull. des Sciences Naturelles volume 4 page +322.)</blockquote> +<blockquote>(***Footnote. Geological Transactions volume 5 page +479.)</blockquote> +<blockquote>(****Footnote. Peron 2 page 75.)</blockquote> +<h3>INSTRUCTIONS FOR COLLECTING GEOLOGICAL SPECIMENS.</h3> +<p>It so often happens that specimens sent from distant places, +by persons unpractised in geology, fail to give the instruction +which is intended, from the want of attention to a few necessary +precautions, that the following directions may perhaps be useful +to some of those, into whose hands these pages are likely to +fall. It will be sufficient to premise, that two of the principal +objects of geological inquiry, are, to determine, first, the +nature of the MATERIALS of which the earth is composed; and, +secondly, the relative ORDER in which these materials are +disposed with respect to each other.</p> +<p>1. Specimens of rocks ought not, in general, to be taken from +loose pieces, but from large masses in their native place, or +which have recently fallen from their natural situation.</p> +<p>2. The specimens should consist of the stone unchanged by +exposure to the elements, which sometimes alter the characters to +a considerable distance from the surface. Petrifactions, however, +are often best distinguishable in masses somewhat decomposed; and +are thus even rendered visible, in many cases, where no trace of +any organized body can be discerned in the recent fracture.</p> +<p>3. The specimens ought not to be too small. A convenient size +is about three inches square, and about three-quarters of an +inch, or less, in thickness.</p> +<p>4. It seldom happens that large masses, even of the same kind +of rock, are uniform throughout any considerable space; so that +the general character is collected, by geologists who examine +rocks in their native places, from the average of an extensive +surface: a collection ought therefore to furnish specimens of the +most characteristic varieties; and THE MOST SPLENDID SPECIMENS +ARE, IN GENERAL, NOT THE MOST INSTRUCTIVE. Where several +specimens are taken in the same place, a series of numbers should +be added to the note of their locality.</p> +<p>5. One of the most advantageous situations for obtaining +specimens, and examining the relations of rocks, is in the +sections afforded by cliffs on the seashore; especially after +recent falls of large masses. It commonly happens that the beds +thus exposed are more or less inclined; and in this case, if any +of them be inaccessible at a particular point, the decline of the +strata will frequently enable the collector to supply himself +with the specimens he wishes for, within a short distance. Thus, +in Sketch 4, which may be supposed to represent a cliff of +considerable height, the observer being situated at a, the beds +b, c, d, though inaccessible at that place, may be examined with +ease and security, where they successively come down to the +shore, at b prime, c prime, and d prime.</p> +<center> +<p><a name="king2-13"></a><img alt="" src="images/king2-13.jpg"></p> +<p><b>SKETCH 4: CLIFF OF CONSIDERABLE HEIGHT, IN WHICH THE BEDS, +THOUGH INACCESSIBLE AT THE TOP, MAY BE EXAMINED WITH EASE AND +SECURITY, WHERE THEY COME DOWN TO THE SHORE.</b></p> +</center> +<p>Â </p> +<p>6. To examine the interior of an unknown country, more skill +and practice are required: the rocks being generally concealed by +the soil, accumulations of sand, gravel, etc., and by the +vegetation of the surface. But the strata are commonly disclosed +in the sides of ravines, in the beds of rivers and +mountain-streams; and these, especially where they cross the +direction of the strata, and be made, by careful examination, to +afford instructive sections.</p> +<p>7. Among the distinctive circumstances of the strata, the +remains of organized bodies, shells, corals, and other zoophytes, +the bones and teeth of animals, fossil wood, and the impressions +of vegetable stems, roots, or leaves, etc., are of the greatest +importance; affording generally the most marked characters of the +strata in which they occur. These should, therefore, be +particularly sought after, and their relative abundance or rarity +in different situations noticed. The petrified bodies should, if +possible, be kept united with portions of the rock or matrix in +which they are found; and where they are numerous, in sand, clay, +or any moist or friable matrix, it is in general better to retain +a large portion of the whole mass, to be examined afterwards, +than to attempt their separation at the time of collecting.</p> +<p>8. The loose materials which are found above the solid rocks, +in the form of gravel, silt, rolled pebbles, etc., should be +carefully distinguished from the solid strata upon which they +repose. And the more ancient of these loose materials, found on +the sides or summits of hills, etc., should be distinguished from +the recent mud, sand, and gravel, brought down by land-floods, or +rivers. The bones and teeth of animals are not unfrequently found +in gravel of the former description; and the collection of these +remains from distant quarters of the globe, is an object of the +greatest interest to geology.</p> +<p>9. Besides a note of the locality, there ought, if possible, +to accompany every specimen, a short notice of its geological +circumstances; as:</p> +<p>Whether it be found in large shapeless masses, or in +strata?</p> +<p>If in strata, what are the thickness, inclination to the +horizon, and direction with respect to the compass, of the beds? +[If these cannot be measured, an estimate should always be +recorded, while the objects are in view.] Are they uniform in dip +and direction? curved, or contorted? continuous, or interrupted +by fissures or veins?</p> +<p>Is the whole cliff, or mass of strata in sight, of uniform +composition? or does it consist of different kinds of stone?</p> +<p>If the strata be different, what is the order in which they +are placed above each other successively?</p> +<p>10. A label, distinctly written, should accompany every +specimen, stating its native place, its relative situation, etc., +etc. And these labels should be connected with the specimens +immediately, on the spot where they are found. This injunction +may appear to be superfluous; but so much valuable information +has been lost to geology from the neglect of it, that every +observer of experience will acknowledge its necessity; and it is, +perhaps, in practice one of the most difficult to adhere to.</p> +<p>11. A sketch of a coast or cliff, however slight, frequently +conveys more information respecting the disposition and relations +of rocks, than the longest memorandum. If numbers, denoting the +situation of the specimens collected, be marked upon such +sketches, much time may be saved at the moment of collecting. But +in all such cases, the memorandum should be looked over soon +afterwards, and labels distinctly explaining their situation, +etc., be attached to the specimens themselves.</p> +<p>12. The specimens should be so packed, that the surfaces may +be defended from exposure to air, moisture, and friction: for +which purpose, if strong paper cannot be obtained, dry moss, or +straw, or leaves, may be used with advantage. Where paper is used +for wrapping the specimens, they are best secured by fastening +the envelope with sealing-wax.</p> +<p>Lastly, The collector must not be discouraged, nor be +prevented from collecting, by finding that the place which he may +chance to visit in a remote situation, has not a striking +appearance, or the rocks within his view a very interesting +character; since it frequently, and even commonly, happens, that +facts and specimens, in themselves of very little importance, +become valuable by subsequent comparison; so that scarcely any +observation, if recorded with accuracy, will be thrown away.</p> +<hr align="center" width="20%"> +<p>The Instruments required by the geological traveller will +vary, according to the acquirements and specific objects of the +individual. The most essential are:</p> +<p>The Hammer (Sketch 5); which, for general purposes, may be of +the form here represented:</p> +<center> +<p><a name="king2-14"></a><img alt="" src="images/king2-14.jpg"></p> +<p><b>SKETCH 5: HAMMER FOR COLLECTING GEOLOGICAL +SPECIMENS.</b></p> +</center> +<p>Â </p> +<p>The head should be of steel well tempered, about 4 inches from +the face to the edge, and 1 1/4 inch square in the middle; the +face flat, and square, or nearly so; the edge placed in the +direction of the handle. The orifice for the insertion of the +handle oval, a very little wider on the outer side than within; +its diameters, about 1 inch vertically, and 0.7 across; the +centre somewhat more than 1 1/2 inch from the face. The handle +should be of ash, or other tough wood; not less than 16 inches +long; fitting tight into the head at its insertion, without a +shoulder; and increasing a little in size towards the end remote +from the head, to prevent its slipping. It should be fixed in the +head by means of a thin, barbed iron wedge.</p> +<p>For trimming specimens, smaller hammers may be employed +(Sketch 6): The form of the head, recommended for this purpose by +Dr. MacCulloch,* is rectangular. The dimensions of the face may +be 1 inch by 3/4; the height 2 1/4.</p> +<blockquote>(*Footnote. On the forms of Mineralogical Hammers, +Quarterly Journal Royal Institution volume 11 1821 page 1 +etc.)</blockquote> +<center> +<p><a name="king2-15"></a><img alt="" src="images/king2-15.jpg"></p> +<p><b>SKETCH 6: SMALL HAMMER FOR TRIMMING GEOLOGICAL +SPECIMENS.</b></p> +</center> +<p>Â </p> +<p>It will be expedient to have always some hammers, of different +sizes, in reserve.</p> +<p>A small miner's pick is useful for cutting out, and splitting +portions of slaty rocks; or for obtaining specimens of clays, +etc.</p> +<p>A small stone-cutter's chisel. A chisel with a handle, of the +form here represented, will often save the hand of an inexpert +collector, and better enable him to direct his blow.</p> +<center> +<p><a name="king2-16"></a><img alt="" src="images/king2-16.jpg"></p> +<p><b>SKETCH 7: SMALL STONE-CUTTER'S CHISEL.</b></p> +</center> +<p>Â </p> +<p>For packing the specimens. A stock of strong paper. +Sealing-wax. Writing-paper, cut into labels. Thick gum-water, to +cement the labels to the specimens.</p> +<p>For the Conveyance of specimens. A large bag of leather, with +straps for the shoulders. Strong canvas bags, of smaller size, +are very convenient for subdivision and arrangement. For the +protection of crystals, or delicate petrifactions, etc., wool or +cotton are necessary; and small wooden boxes (like those used for +holding wafers) are sometimes required. For distant carriage, +strong wooden boxes, casks, or baskets.</p> +<p>The following are either essential, or useful in various +degrees, for obtaining and recording observations.</p> +<p>Pocket Memorandum-Books, of sufficient size to admit +sketches.<br> +A Pocket Compass.<br> +A Measuring-Tape, of fifty feet, or more.<br> +A Telescope.<br> +A Camera Lucida.<br> +A Box of Colours.</p> +<p>The best maps should always be sought for: And, the true +economy to the traveller being that which saves time, it is best +to mark, or even colour the map, in the field. Notes inserted on +imperfect maps, or deduced afterwards from memoranda, are less +authentic; and the process is frequently neglected.</p> +<p>PORTABLE-BAROMETERS, with detached thermometers, are +desirable; and the best instruments are ultimately the cheapest. +But, unfortunately, barometers of every construction are very +easily damaged or deranged. The accurate determination of +heights, however, though very interesting to physical geography, +is comparatively of little importance to the geologist.</p> +<p>If the collector be a surveyor, he will know best to what +purpose a Pocket Sextant, or small Theodolite, is applicable: the +measurement of distances, of heights, and of the inclination of +strata, etc.</p> +<hr align="center" width="20%"> +<h3>CONTENTS OF APPENDIX C.</h3> +<p>GENERAL SKETCH OF THE COAST.</p> +<p>GEOLOGICAL REMARKS.<br> +1. List of Rocks.<br> +2. Rocks identical with those of Europe.<br> +3. Aspect of the Shores.<br> +4. Information wanting respecting Diluvial deposits: no Specimens +of Limestone: no Volcanoes.<br> +5. Recent calcareous breccia.<br> +6. Range of the Coastlines.</p> +<p>DETAILED LIST OF SPECIMENS.</p> +<p>INSTRUCTIONS FOR COLLECTING GEOLOGICAL SPECIMENS.</p> +<hr align="center" width="20%"> +<p><a name="appendixD"></a></p> +<h3>APPENDIX D.</h3> +<p align="center">COMPARATIVE TABLE OF THE LANGUAGES OF THE +NATIVES, WITH SOME GENERAL REMARKS.</p> +<p><b>COLUMN 1: ENGLISH WORD.<br> +COLUMN 2: CALEDON BAY, GULF OF CARPENTARIA. FROM CAPTAIN +FLINDERS.<br> +COLUMN 3: ENDEAVOUR RIVER, NORTH-EAST COAST. PARTLY FROM CAPTAIN +COOK AND MR. FORSTER.<br> +COLUMN 4: KING GEORGE THE THIRD'S SOUND, SOUTH-WEST COAST.<br> +COLUMN 5: PORT JACKSON.<br> +COLUMN 6: BURRAH BURRAH TRIBE. FROM MR. SCOTT.<br> +COLUMN 7: LIMESTONE CREEK. FROM MR. OXLEY.<br> +COLUMN 8: PORT MACQUARIE. FROM MR. HUNTER.<br> +COLUMN 9: MACQUARIE HARBOUR, VAN DIEMEN'S LAND.</b></p> +<p>Eye : Ma-il : Me-ul : Me-al : Mi, or Me, Mego : Miki-laja : +Milla : Me'-e : Nam'-mur-uck.</p> +<p>Nose : Ur-ro, or Hurro : Emer-da, or Poteer, Bon-joo (Cook) : +Tarmul, Moil (Flinders) : Nogro : - : Mor-ro : Na'-ag : +Me-oun.</p> +<p>Lips : Ta-a : Yem-be (Cook) : Tar : Willing : - : - : - : +-.</p> +<p>Teeth : Lir-ra : Mol-ear : Orlock : Era, or Da-ra : Yerrah : +Er-ra : Te'-lah : Kouk.</p> +<p>Tongue : Mat-ta : Unjar : Darlin, or Thalil : Tal-lang : - : - +: Mal'-way : Mim.</p> +<p>Cheeks : Tac-cal : - : Ny-a-luck : Yarrin : - : - : - : -.</p> +<p>Chin : Na-ing : - : - : Wal-lo : - : - : - : -.</p> +<p>Ears : Pon-doo-roo, or Po-door-roo : Mil-kah, Melea (Cook) : +Duong : Co-roo, Goray, or Benne : Binning-huiy : Wha-da :Mo'-ko : +Goun-reek.</p> +<p>Hair of the head : Marra : Morye : Ka-at : Kewarra, Dewarra, +or Gewarroo : Mundar : Bulla-ye-ga : Wo'l-lack : Pipe, or +Bipipe.</p> +<p>Neck : Mo-i-ang : Doom-boo, Forster : - : Ganga, Cadlear, or +Cadleang : - : Oro- : - : Treek, or Lan-gar-ree.</p> +<p>Breast : Gum-mur : Coy-or (Forster) : - : Nabung : - : Be-ning +: Nam-bang : -.</p> +<p>Belly : Goor-ro : Melmal (Forster) : Cop-bull, or Kopul : +Barrong, or Bende : Binda : Bur-bing : War'rah : -.</p> +<p>Arm : Wan-na, or War-na : Aco, or Acol : Wor-nuck : Tarrang : +- : Bar-gar : Co-pah : Yir-ra-wig.</p> +<p>Hand : Gong : - : - : Tam-mir-ra : Morrewalla : - : - : -.</p> +<p>Fingers : Mingel : Mun-gal-bah : Mai (singular), Maih (plural) +: Ber-ril-le : Maranga : Nar-ra : Mah-tra : War-ra-nook.</p> +<p>Elbow : Le-kal, or Le-kan : Ye-er-we : - : O-nur : - : - : - : +Nam-me-rick.</p> +<p>Posteriors : Lam-me : Booca (Forster) : Wa'l-la-kah : Bo-ong, +or Bayley : - : - : - : -.</p> +<p>Leg : Bacca : Peegoorga (Forster) : - : Dar-ra : - : - : +Woo'lo-loo : -.</p> +<p>Foot : Locko, or Nocka : Edamal (feet) : Ja-an, or Bangul : +Manoe : Janna : Dhee-nany : - : -.</p> +<p>Toe : Mangel-locko : Eb-e-rah : Kea (singular) Kean (plural) : +- : - : - : Teel-nah : Pe-une.</p> +<p>Sun : Laran-gai, or Car-ran-ghie : Gallan (Forster) : Djaat : +Goona, Coing, or Con-do-in : Bun-nail, or Mo-mat : - : Too-nigh, +or Win-gin : -.</p> +<p>Water : Lucka, or Lucko : Poorai (Forster) : - : Ba-doo : +Ajung- : - : Bah-do : -.</p> +<p>Stone : Punda : Wal-bah : - : Keba : Wy-juck : - : - : -.</p> +<p>Kangaroo : Loi-tyo : Men-u-ah, Kan-goo-roo (Cook) : Beango : +Tungo, Patagorang, Bag-gar-ray, Wal-li-bah, Wal-lar-roo, Bou-rou, +Barro-melon, Betong, Wy-rung, Pademalion : - : - : Womboy, +Pool-cot (tame), Mah-koke (the Pademalion of Port Jackson) : +Raguar.</p> +<p>Throwing-stick : Kail lepo : Melpairo, or Melpier (Forster) : +Me-a-ra : Wo-me-rah : - : - : - : -.</p> +<p>Nipples (of a man) : - : Coy-o-ber-rah, Cayo (Cook) : Be-ep : +Mou-tral : - : - : - : Nerrinook.</p> +<p>Dog : - : Cotta, or Kota : Tiara : Teingo, Dingo, Worregal : +Med-di-gen, War-ri-gal : - : - : -.</p> +<p>Nails : - : Kolke : Pera : Currungal, or Car-rung-un : - : - : +- : -.</p> +<p>Beard : - : Wol-lar : Nyanuck : Chinis, or Wallo : - : Anany : +- : Ru-ing.</p> +<p>Mouth : - : - : Tatah : Karga : - : Chuang : Wel'-leck : +-.</p> +<p>Fire : - : - : - : Gwee-yong, or Too-yong : Canby : Warrenur : +Cor-yal : Lope.</p> +<p>Membrum virile : - : - : Yaw-de-wit : - : - : - : Cool-kah : +Lune.</p> +<p>Head : - : Wageegee (Forster) : - : Cob-bra : Ulangar, or +Nattang : Cah-brah : - : -.</p> +<p>The preceding brief collection, of words used by the natives +in various parts of the Coasts of Australia and Van Diemen's +Land, has been inserted to show the great dissimilarity that +exists in the languages of the several tribes: and it may be +remarked, that of thirty-three objects, one only, the Eye, is +expressed by nearly the same term at each place. In this list, it +is true, there is a striking resemblance between the terms used +to signify the hair at Port Jackson, namely, dewarra, or kewarra, +or gewarroo, and those which denote the same thing in the +language of some of the islands of the Eastern Seas; such, for +instance, as arouroo or hooroo-hooroo of the Society Islands; +lo-ooroo of the Friendly Islands; hooroo of New Zealand; and, +perhaps, oouho of the Marquesas:* but at New Caledonia, which is +situated between these places and Port Jackson, the same thing is +expressed by poon, a sound totally distinct. And to render the +anomaly still more decisive, it is only necessary to remark, +that, within two hundred miles of Port Jackson, the natives of +three tribes, Port Macquarie. Burrah-Burrah, and Limestone Creek, +signify the hair, by the words wollack, mundar, and +bulla-ye-ga.</p> +<blockquote>(*Footnote. Forster Observations page +283.)</blockquote> +<p>The aboriginal connexion of Australia with other lands must be +proved, as far as language is concerned, by a general resemblance +of the words, and not merely by a few examples of coincidence, +which can only be considered as accidental: and as our knowledge +of the Australian languages, except in the vicinity of Port +Jackson, does not yet exceed thirty or forty words, no +comparison, derived from such limited information, can be +employed with any certainty to determine the question. The +connexion must be sought for, probably, where the continent, at +its north-eastern extremity, most nearly approaches other lands; +but even then the chain will remain imperfect until New Guinea +and its neighbouring islands are explored, and correct and +extensive vocabularies of their languages obtained. Forster,* who +has paid considerable attention to this subject, and whose +opinions are the more valuable from their being the result of +personal observation, seems to be convinced that the New +Hollanders are not an original race, but have derived their +origin from New Guinea. It is therefore to be hoped, that this +subject will not be forgotten by our trans-Atlantic and +Australian colonists; more particularly by those of the new +settlement on the north coast at Melville Island, who, from their +vicinity to New Guinea, have the best opportunities of throwing +light upon the question.</p> +<blockquote>(*Footnote. Ibid.)</blockquote> +<hr align="center" width="20%"> +<h4>SITUATIONS OF THE PLACES MENTIONED IN THE PRECEDING LIST WITH +RESPECT TO PORT JACKSON.</h4> +<p>King George the Third's Sound is on the South-west Coast, 1660 +miles from Port Jackson.</p> +<p>Caledon Bay is near the north-west extremity of the Gulf of +Carpentaria, 1500 miles from Port Jackson.</p> +<p>Endeavour River, in latitude about 15 degrees South, is on the +North-east Coast, about 1180 miles from Port Jackson.</p> +<p>Burrah-Burrah, about 90 miles in the interior, west of Port +Jackson.</p> +<p>Limestone Creek, about 140 miles in the interior, west of Port +Jackson.</p> +<p>Port Macquarie, on the East Coast, 168 miles north of Port +Jackson.</p> +<p>Macquarie Harbour, on the West Coast of Van Diemen's Land.</p> +<p>Bruny Island, at the south-east extremity of Van Diemen's +Land.</p> +<p>END OF VOLUME 2.</p> +<center> +<p><a name="king2-17"></a><img alt="" src="images/king2-17.jpg"></p> +<p><b>TABLE A.<br> +Chlamydosaurus kingii.<br> +The plate was engraved by Mr. Curtis, from an exceedingly correct +drawing made by Henry C. Field, Esquire. Fel. Coll. Surg.<br> +Published by John Murray, Albemarle Street, March, 1826.</b></p> +</center> +<p>Â </p> +<center> +<p><a name="king2-18"></a><img alt="" src="images/king2-18.jpg"></p> +<p><b>TABLE B.<br> +Carpophagus banksiae.<br> +Megamerus kingii.<br> +Phasma tiaratum.<br> +Drawn by Miss M.L. Field. J. Curtis sculp.<br> +Published by John Murray, Albemarle Street, March, 1826.</b></p> +</center> +<p>Â </p> +<center> +<p><a name="king2-19"></a><img alt="" src="images/king2-19.jpg"></p> +<p><b>TABLE C.<br> +Kingia Australis.<br> +Curtis, Id et sculp.<br> +Published by John Murray, Albemarle Street.</b></p> +</center> + +<div>*** END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 12046 ***</div> +</body> +</html> + diff --git a/12046-h/images/king2-00.jpg b/12046-h/images/king2-00.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..0aaabeb --- /dev/null +++ b/12046-h/images/king2-00.jpg diff --git a/12046-h/images/king2-01.jpg b/12046-h/images/king2-01.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..7972a94 --- /dev/null +++ b/12046-h/images/king2-01.jpg diff --git a/12046-h/images/king2-02.jpg b/12046-h/images/king2-02.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..37160b6 --- /dev/null +++ b/12046-h/images/king2-02.jpg diff --git a/12046-h/images/king2-03.jpg 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Anyone seeking to utilize +this eBook outside of the United States should confirm copyright +status under the laws that apply to them. diff --git a/README.md b/README.md new file mode 100644 index 0000000..3115b12 --- /dev/null +++ b/README.md @@ -0,0 +1,2 @@ +Project Gutenberg (https://www.gutenberg.org) public repository for +eBook #12046 (https://www.gutenberg.org/ebooks/12046) diff --git a/old/12046-h.zip b/old/12046-h.zip Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..7d8a8c7 --- /dev/null +++ b/old/12046-h.zip diff --git a/old/12046-h/12046-h.htm b/old/12046-h/12046-h.htm new file mode 100644 index 0000000..84b8ef1 --- /dev/null +++ b/old/12046-h/12046-h.htm @@ -0,0 +1,17869 @@ +<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.01 Transitional//EN"> +<html> +<head> +<title>Narrative of a Survey--Volume 2</title> +<meta http-equiv="Content-Type" content= +"text/html; charset=iso-8859-1"> +<style type="text/css"> +<!-- +body {background:lightyellow; margin:10%; text-align:justify} +h2,h3,h4,h5,h6 {color:green; text-align:center} +p.poem {text-align:center} +--> +</style> + +</head> +<body> + + +<pre> + +The Project Gutenberg EBook of Narrative of a Survey of the Intertropical +and Western Coasts of Australia] [Volume 2 of 2], by Phillip Parker King + +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with +almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + +Title: Narrative of a Survey of the Intertropical and Western Coasts of Australia] [Volume 2 of 2] + Performed between the years 1818 and 1822 + +Author: Phillip Parker King + +Release Date: April 15, 2004 [EBook #12046] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1 + +*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK SURVEY OF THE COASTS OF AUSTRALIA, V2 *** + + + + +Produced by Sue Asscher + + + + + +</pre> + + +<center> +<p><a name="king2-00"></a><img alt="" src="images/king2-00.jpg"></p> +<p><b>WOODCUT 1: NATIVES OF HANOVER BAY ON A RAFT.</b></p> +</center> +<p> </p> +<h3>NARRATIVE OF A SURVEY</h3> +<h5>OF THE</h5> +<h4>INTERTROPICAL AND WESTERN</h4> +<h2>COASTS OF AUSTRALIA.</h2> +<h5>PERFORMED BETWEEN</h5> +<h3>THE YEARS 1818 AND 1822.</h3> +<h5>BY</h5> +<h3>CAPTAIN PHILLIP P. KING, R.N., F.R.S., F.L.S.,</h3> +<h5>AND MEMBER OF THE ROYAL ASIATIC SOCIETY OF LONDON.</h5> +<h5>WITH</h5> +<h4>AN APPENDIX,</h4> +<h5>CONTAINING</h5> +<h4>VARIOUS SUBJECTS RELATING TO HYDROGRAPHY AND NATURAL +HISTORY.</h4> +<h3>IN TWO VOLUMES,</h3> +<h4>ILLUSTRATED BY PLATES, CHARTS, AND WOOD-CUTS.</h4> +<h3>VOLUME 2.</h3> +<hr align="center" width="20%"> +<h5>LONDON:</h5> +<h5>JOHN MURRAY, ALBEMARLE STREET.</h5> +<hr align="center" width="20%"> +<center> +<p><a name="king2-01"></a><img alt="" src="images/king2-01.jpg"></p> +<p><b>ENTRANCE OF OYSTER HARBOUR, KING GEORGE THE THIRD'S +SOUND.<br> +Interview with the Natives.<br> +From a sketch by P.P. King. Published in May 1825 by John Murray, +London.</b></p> +</center> +<p> </p> +<h3>CONTENTS.</h3> +<h4>VOLUME 2.</h4> +<h5><a href="#chapter01">CHAPTER 1.</a></h5> +<p>Survey upon the mermaid.<br> +Purchase another vessel.<br> +New establishment.<br> +Departure on the fourth voyage, accompanied by a merchant-ship +bound through Torres Strait.<br> +Discovery of an addition to the crew.<br> +Pass round Breaksea Spit, and steer up the East Coast.<br> +Transactions at Percy Island.<br> +Enormous sting-rays.<br> +Pine-trees serviceable for masts.<br> +Joined by a merchant brig.<br> +Anchor under Cape Grafton, Hope Islands, and Lizard Island.<br> +Natives at Lizard Island.<br> +Cape Flinders.<br> +Visit the Frederick's wreck.<br> +Surprised by natives.<br> +Mr. Cunningham's description of the drawings of the natives in a +cavern on Clack's Island.<br> +Anchor in Margaret Bay, and under Cairncross Island.<br> +Accident, and loss of anchors.<br> +Pass through Torres Strait, and visit Goulburn Island.<br> +Affair with the natives.<br> +The Dick parts company.</p> +<h5><a href="#chapter02">CHAPTER 2.</a></h5> +<p>Passage from Cape Van Diemen to Careening Bay.<br> +Not finding water, visit Prince Regent's River, and procure it +from the Cascade.<br> +Farther examination of the river.<br> +Amphibious mud-fish.<br> +Anchor in Halfway Bay, and explore Munster Water and Hanover Bay +in a boat.<br> +Visit Hanover Bay, and procure water and fish.<br> +Interview with natives.<br> +The surgeon speared.<br> +Retaliate upon them, and capture their rafts and weapons.<br> +Description of their implements.<br> +Port George the Fourth.<br> +Islands to the westward.<br> +Red Island of Captain Heywood.<br> +Strong tides.<br> +Camden Bay.<br> +Buccaneer's Archipelago.<br> +Cygnet Bay.<br> +Dangerous situation of the brig.<br> +High and rapid tides.<br> +Cape Leveque.<br> +Examination of the coast to Cape Latouche Treville.<br> +Remarkable effect of mirage.<br> +Leave the coast for Mauritius.<br> +Voyage thither.<br> +Arrival at Port Louis.<br> +Refit.<br> +Some account of the island.</p> +<h5><a href="#chapter03">CHAPTER 3.</a></h5> +<p>Departure from Port Louis.<br> +Voyage to the South-west Coast of New Holland.<br> +Anchor in King George the Third's Sound.<br> +Occurrences there.<br> +Visited by the Natives.<br> +Our intercourse with them.<br> +Descriptions of their weapons and other implements.<br> +Vocabulary of their language.<br> +Meteorological and other observations.<br> +Edible plants.<br> +Testaceous productions.</p> +<h5><a href="#chapter04">CHAPTER 4.</a></h5> +<p>Leave King George the Third's Sound, and commence the survey +of the West Coast at Rottnest Island.<br> +Another remarkable effect of mirage.<br> +Anchor under, and land upon Rottnest Island.<br> +Break an anchor.<br> +Examine the coast to the northward.<br> +Cape Leschenault.<br> +Lancelin Island.<br> +Jurien Bay.<br> +Houtman's Abrolhos.<br> +Moresby's Flat-topped Range.<br> +Red Point.<br> +Anchor in Dirk Hartog's Road, at the entrance of Shark's Bay.<br> +Occurrences there.<br> +Examination of the coast to the North-west Cape.<br> +Barrow Island.<br> +Heavy gale off the Montebello Isles.<br> +Rowley's Shoals.<br> +Cape Leveque.<br> +Dangerous situation of the brig among the islands of Buccaneer's +Archipelago.<br> +Examination and description of Cygnet Bay.<br> +Lose an anchor, and leave the coast.<br> +Adele Island.<br> +Return to Port Jackson.</p> +<h5><a href="#chapter05">CHAPTER 5.</a></h5> +<p>The Bathurst sails for England.<br> +Remarks upon some errors in the hydrography of the south coast of +Van Diemen's Land.<br> +King George the Third's Sound.<br> +Passage to the Cape of Good Hope.<br> +Cross the Atlantic, and arrive at Plymouth Sound.<br> +Observations upon the voyages, and conclusion.</p> +<h5><a href="#appendixA">APPENDIX A.</a></h5> +<p>SECTION 1.</p> +<p>Of the winds and currents, and description of the ports, +islands, and coast between Port Jackson and Breaksea Spit.</p> +<p>SECTION 2.</p> +<p>Description of the winds and weather, and of the ports, +islands, and coast between Breaksea Spit and Cape York.</p> +<p>SECTION 3.</p> +<p>Description of the winds and weather, and of the ports and +coast between Wessel's Islands and Clarence Strait.</p> +<p>SECTION 4.</p> +<p>Of the nature of the winds and the description of the coast +between Clarence Strait and the North-west Cape.</p> +<p>SECTION 5.</p> +<p>Of the winds and weather, and description of the Western Coast +between the North-west Cape and Cape Leeuwin.</p> +<p>SECTION 6.</p> +<p>Of the winds and weather upon the South Coast. Directions for +King George the Third's Sound, and hydrographical remarks +relating to Bass Strait.</p> +<p>SECTION 7.</p> +<p>Description of the shoals and reefs in the neighbourhood of +the coasts of Australia.</p> +<p>SECTION 8.</p> +<p>Directions for the passage within the reefs through Torres +Strait.</p> +<p>SECTION 9.</p> +<p>Dip of the magnetic needle.</p> +<p>SECTION 10.</p> +<p>Upon the geographical positions of the fixed points of the +survey.</p> +<h5><a href="#appendixB">APPENDIX B.</a></h5> +<p>Containing a list and description of the subjects of natural +history collected during Captain King's survey of the +Intertropical and Western Coasts of Australia.</p> +<h5><a href="#appendixC">APPENDIX C.</a></h5> +<p>Geology.</p> +<h5><a href="#appendixD">APPENDIX D.</a></h5> +<p>Language of the Natives.</p> +<h4>LIST OF PLATES.</h4> +<h5>VOLUME 2.</h5> +<p><a href="#king2-00">WOODCUT 1: NATIVES OF HANOVER BAY ON A +RAFT.</a></p> +<p><a href="#king2-01">ENTRANCE OF OYSTER HARBOUR, KING GEORGE +THE THIRD'S SOUND.<br> +Interview with the Natives.<br> +From a sketch by P.P. King. Published in May 1825 by John Murray, +London.</a></p> +<p><a href="#king2-02">VIEW OF THE CASCADE IN PRINCE REGENT'S +RIVER.<br> +From a sketch by P.P. King. Published in May 1825 by John Murray, +London.</a></p> +<p><a href="#king2-03">WEAPONS ETC. OF THE NATIVES OF HANOVER +BAY.<br> +1. Stone Spear Head (Full size.) From a Drawing by F. Chantrey, +Esquire, F.R.S.<br> +2. Section of a Stone Spear Head (Full size.) From a Drawing by +F. Chantrey, Esquire, F.R.S.<br> +3. Spear armed with the Stone head.<br> +4. Throwing-stick.<br> +5. Hatchet.<br> +Published in May 1825 by John Murray, London.</a></p> +<p><a href="#king2-04">WOODCUT 2: RAFT OF THE NATIVES OF HANOVER +BAY.</a></p> +<p><a href="#king2-05">WOODCUT 3: WEAPONS AND IMPLEMENTS OF THE +NATIVES OF KING GEORGE THE THIRD'S SOUND: MEARA OR +THROWING-STICK.</a></p> +<p><a href="#king2-06">WOODCUT 4: WEAPONS AND IMPLEMENTS OF THE +NATIVES OF KING GEORGE THE THIRD'S SOUND: METHOD OF PROPULSION OF +SPEAR BY A MEARA OR THROWING-STICK.</a></p> +<p><a href="#king2-07">WOODCUT 5: WEAPONS AND IMPLEMENTS OF THE +NATIVES OF KING GEORGE THE THIRD'S SOUND: KAOIT OR +HAMMER.</a></p> +<p><a href="#king2-08">WOODCUT 6: WEAPONS AND IMPLEMENTS OF THE +NATIVES OF KING GEORGE THE THIRD'S SOUND: TAAP OR KNIFE.</a></p> +<p><a href="#king2-09">VIEW OF FORT DUNDAS, TAKEN FROM GARDEN +POINT.<br> +CHART OF PORT COCKBURN AT MELVILLE ISLAND.<br> +Plan of Port Cockburn, between Bathurst and Melville Islands.<br> +From a survey made by Lieutenant J.S. ROE in October 1824.<br> +PLAN OF KING'S COVE.</a></p> +<p><a href="#king2-10">SKETCH 1: ISLANDS OFF ADMIRALTY GULF, +LOOKING SOUTHWARD FROM THE NORTH-EAST END OF CASSINI ISLAND. Left +to right: Corneille, Fenelon, Descartes, and Pascal Islands, +Hills on Cape Voltaire, Condillac Island, and East end of Cassini +Island (Peron's Atlas, plate 6, figure 7) and the outline of the +Iles Forbin (Peron's Atlas, plate 8, figure 5).<br> +SKETCH 2: ISLANDS OFF ADMIRALTY GULF, LOOKING SOUTHWARD FROM THE +NORTH-EAST END OF CASSINI ISLAND. Left to right: Peak upon Cape +Voltaire and Condillac Island, bearing South, two miles distant. +Several drawings of Captain King.</a></p> +<p><a href="#king2-11">SKETCH 3: TWO CONSPICUOUS HILLS NORTH-EAST +OF PRINCE-REGENT'S RIVER. Left to right: Mount Trafalgar and +Mount Waterloo.</a></p> +<p><a href="#king2-12">MAP OF THE CHAINS OF ISLANDS ON THE +NORTH-WEST COAST OF CARPENTARIA</a></p> +<p><a href="#king2-13">SKETCH 4: CLIFF OF CONSIDERABLE HEIGHT, IN +WHICH THE BEDS, THOUGH INACCESSIBLE AT THE TOP, MAY BE EXAMINED +WITH EASE AND SECURITY, WHERE THEY COME DOWN TO THE +SHORE.</a></p> +<p><a href="#king2-14">SKETCH 5: HAMMER FOR COLLECTING GEOLOGICAL +SPECIMENS.</a></p> +<p><a href="#king2-15">SKETCH 6: SMALL HAMMER FOR TRIMMING +GEOLOGICAL SPECIMENS.</a></p> +<p><a href="#king2-16">SKETCH 7: SMALL STONE-CUTTER'S +CHISEL.</a></p> +<p><a href="#king2-17">TABLE A.<br> +Chlamydosaurus kingii.<br> +The plate was engraved by Mr. Curtis, from an exceedingly correct +drawing made by Henry C. Field, Esquire. Fel. Coll. Surg.<br> +Published by John Murray, Albemarle Street, March, 1826.</a></p> +<p><a href="#king2-18">TABLE B.<br> +Carpophagus banksiae.<br> +Megamerus kingii.<br> +Phasma tiaratum.<br> +Drawn by Miss M.L. Field. J. Curtis sculp.<br> +Published by John Murray, Albemarle Street, March, 1826.</a></p> +<p><a href="#king2-19">TABLE C.<br> +Kingia Australis.<br> +Curtis, Id et sculp.<br> +Published by John Murray, Albemarle Street.</a></p> +<h2>VOYAGES FOR THE SURVEY<br> +OF THE<br> +INTERTROPICAL COASTS<br> +OF<br> +AUSTRALIA.</h2> +<hr align="center" width="20%"> +<p><a name="chapter01"></a></p> +<h3>CHAPTER 1.</h3> +<blockquote>Survey upon the mermaid.<br> +Purchase another vessel.<br> +New establishment.<br> +Departure on the fourth voyage, accompanied by a merchant-ship +bound through Torres Strait.<br> +Discovery of an addition to the crew.<br> +Pass round Breaksea Spit, and steer up the East Coast.<br> +Transactions at Percy Island.<br> +Enormous sting-rays.<br> +Pine-trees serviceable for masts.<br> +Joined by a merchant brig.<br> +Anchor under Cape Grafton, Hope Islands, and Lizard Island.<br> +Natives at Lizard Island.<br> +Cape Flinders.<br> +Visit the Frederick's wreck.<br> +Surprised by natives.<br> +Mr. Cunningham's description of the drawings of the natives in a +cavern on Clack's Island.<br> +Anchor in Margaret Bay, and under Cairncross Island.<br> +Accident, and loss of anchors.<br> +Pass through Torres Strait, and visit Goulburn Island.<br> +Affair with the natives.<br> +The Dick parts company.</blockquote> +<p>1820. December 6.</p> +<p>As soon as the opportunity offered after our arrival, the +cutter was laid on shore upon the beach of Sydney Cove, and +surveyed by the master and the carpenter of H.M. Store-Ship +Dromedary, which ship was preparing for her return to England +with a cargo of New Zealand spars. Upon stripping the copper off +the bottom, the tide flowed into her, and proved that to the +copper sheathing alone we were indebted for our safe return. The +iron spikes that fastened her were entirely decayed, and a +considerable repair was recommended by the surveying officers. +Upon my communicating the result of their report to His +Excellency, Governor Macquarie, he agreed with me in thinking +that, as her repairs would take up so much time, it would be +better to purchase another vessel, and as a brig was then in the +harbour, that appeared to be every way suited for my purpose, she +was examined by my order by Mr. Mart, the Dromedary's carpenter, +who reported so favourably of her, that, by the governor's +permission, she was purchased and fitted for the voyage. She was +built of teak, of one hundred and seventy tons burden, and had +lately received a very considerable repair at Calcutta; so that, +excepting a few trifling defects and alterations, she was quite +fit for sea. Her name was altered at the suggestion of Governor +Macquarie to that of the Bathurst.</p> +<p>By this change we gained a great addition to our comforts; +and, besides increasing the number of our crew, were much better +off in regard to boats; for we now possessed a long-boat, large +enough to carry out and weigh an anchor, or save the crew if any +accident should happen to the vessel; a resource which we did not +possess in the Mermaid.</p> +<p>A further addition was made to our party by the appointment of +Mr. Perceval Baskerville, one of the Dromedary's midshipman; but +Mr. Hunter the surgeon, who had volunteered his services in the +Mermaid during the last voyage, was superseded by Mr. A. +Montgomery, who had lately arrived in charge of a convict +ship.</p> +<p>Our establishment now consisted of the following officers and +men:</p> +<p>Lieutenant and Commander: Phillip Parker King.<br> +Surgeon: Andrew Montgomery.<br> + Master's Mates (Assistant Surveyors):<br> + Frederick Bedwell.<br> +John S. Roe.<br> +Midshipman: Perceval Baskerville.<br> +Botanical Collector: Allan Cunningham.<br> +Steward.<br> +Boatswain's Mate.<br> +Carpenter's Mate.<br> +Sail Maker.<br> +Cook.<br> +Seamen: 16.<br> +Boys: 5.</p> +<p>Total: 32.</p> +<p>1821. May 26.</p> +<p>After experiencing many tedious and unexpected delays in +equipping the Bathurst, notwithstanding our wants were few, and +the greater part of our repairs were effected by our own people, +we were not completed for sea until the 26th of May, when we +sailed from Port Jackson upon our fourth and last voyage to the +north coast, accompanied by the merchant-ship Dick (the same +vessel in which we had originally embarked from England): she was +bound to Batavia, and being ready for sailing at the time of our +departure, requested permission to accompany us through Torres +Strait, which, since it would rather prove an assistance to us +than cause any delay in our proceedings, was acceded to on my +part with much satisfaction. In the mean time the Mermaid, our +late vessel, had been thoroughly repaired, fresh fastened with +copper spikes, and fitted out; and, before we sailed, had been +sent to sea to carry the first establishment to Port Macquarie, +on which service she had been wrecked. She was, however, +afterwards got off the rocks and repaired, and is now a very +serviceable vessel in the colony.</p> +<p>Boongaree, the native who had formerly accompanied us, +volunteered his services whilst the vessel was preparing for the +voyage, which I gladly accepted; but when the day of departure +drew nigh, he kept aloof; and the morning that we sailed, his +place was filled by another volunteer, Bundell; who proved not +only to be a more active seaman, but was of much greater service +to us, than his countryman Boongaree had been. This addition made +our number thirty-three.</p> +<p>May 30.</p> +<p>Three days after we left the port, a discovery was made of +another addition to the number of the crew. Upon opening the +hold, which had been locked ever since the day before we sailed, +a young girl, not more than fourteen years of age, was found +concealed among the casks, where she had secreted herself in +order to accompany the boatswain to sea: upon being brought on +deck, she was in a most pitiable plight, for her dress and +appearance were so filthy, from four days' close confinement in a +dark hold, and from having been dreadfully seasick the whole +time, that her acquaintances, of which she had many on board, +could scarcely recognise her. Upon being interrogated, she +declared she had, unknown to all on board, concealed herself in +the hold the day before the vessel sailed; and that her swain +knew nothing of the step she had taken. As it was now +inconvenient to return to put her on shore, and as the man +consented to share his ration with her, she was allowed to +remain; but in a very short time heartily repented of her +imprudence, and would gladly have been re-landed, had it been +possible.</p> +<p>1821. June 4.</p> +<p>Between the 30th and the 4th of June we had a series of gales +of wind, which enabled us to prove the capabilities of our new +ship; and it was very satisfactory to find that she was +weatherly, tight, and dry, three very essential qualities for a +surveying vessel.</p> +<p>June 5.</p> +<p>On the afternoon of the 5th we passed round the north end of +Breaksea Spit, and crossed Hervey's Bay; in the night, when the +brig ought to have been many miles from the shore, we found +ourselves unexpectedly close to some land; but it was not until +the day broke that we knew the full extent of the danger we had +encountered: the land we had seen proved to be the round head of +Bustard Bay, which, as the wind was blowing directly upon it, we +were fortunate in having room to clear. The Dick was apprized by +us of the danger in time, and succeeded in clearing the land by +tacking to the southward.</p> +<p>June 6.</p> +<p>At noon we were passing the small woody isle that was seen by +Captain Flinders, and farther on we discovered two other isles of +a similar character: they were seen from the masthead to the +north-east; and a fourth was seen by the Dick. After this we had +a few days of fine weather, which, as dysentery had already made +its appearance amongst us, was most welcome, and tended +materially to check the progress of so alarming a complaint.</p> +<p>June 8.</p> +<p>On the 8th we entered among the Northumberland Islands.</p> +<p>June 10.</p> +<p>But, from light northerly winds, did not reach an anchorage +under Percy Island, Number 2, until the morning of the 10th. Our +situation was between the Pine Islets and the basin, in ten +fathoms, near a run of water, which fell from the rocks into the +sea at about a quarter of a mile to the northward of the sandy +beach: from this stream we filled our casks. Water was also found +in many other parts, but all the runs appeared to be of temporary +duration.</p> +<p>June 11.</p> +<p>This island, like Number 1, which we visited in 1819, appears +to be principally of quartzose formation. The soil is sandy, and +affords but little nourishment to the stunted trees with which it +is furnished. In the more barren and rocky parts the pine was +abundant, but not growing to any great size: the Dick's people +cut down and embarked several logs; on examination they were +thought to be useless; but, from subsequent experience, they +proved to be far from deserving such contempt, for during the +voyage we made two pole-top gallant-masts of it; which, although +very full of knots, were as tough as any spar I ever saw; and +carried a press of sail longer than would be trusted on many +masts. These trees are very abundant on the Cumberland and +Northumberland Islands, but do not attain any large size; being +seldom higher than fifty or sixty feet, or of a greater diameter +than from twelve to eighteen inches.</p> +<p>Among the variety of birds, several black cockatoos and the +pheasant cuckoo were seen. The beaches were frequented by gulls, +terns, and oyster-catchers; and an egret was noticed of a +slate-coloured plumage, with a small ruff upon its head.</p> +<p>The seine was hauled upon the beach; but the only fish caught +were two very large sting-rays; one of which measured twelve feet +across: as it was too unwieldy to take on board, we had no means +of weighing it; but the liver nearly filled a small pork barrel.* +It is very probable that our bad success may be attributed to the +presence of these fish, for on board the Dick several snappers +were caught with the hook and line.</p> +<blockquote>(*Footnote. Captain Cook describes some fish, +probably of the same species, found at Botany Bay, weighing each +three hundred and thirty-six pounds (Hawkesworth volume 3 page +100); from which circumstance, as it is not generally known, the +name of Sting-ray Bay was given to that harbour; it is so-called +in the charts of the Endeavour's voyage, in the Hydrographical +Office at the Admiralty, as well as in Sir Joseph Banks' copy of +the Endeavour's journal, and in Dr. Solander's manuscript +journal, both of which are in the possession of my friend Robert +Brown, Esquire. The name by which it is now known appears to have +been given subsequently, on account of the variety and beauty of +its botanical productions.)</blockquote> +<p>In the evening the wind set in from South by East, with rain, +and cloudy, thick weather: in striking the royal masts, a serious +defect was discovered in our fore-top-mast; the upper part being +found rotten for twelve feet below the head; and the +top-gallant-mast was also found to be sprung in the wake of the +cap.</p> +<p>June 12.</p> +<p>So that we were compelled to remain all the next day at the +anchorage to shift them. This detention was very vexatious, for +we were not only losing a fair wind, but lying in a very exposed +situation.</p> +<p>During the preceding night a brig anchored half a mile to the +southward of us: she proved to be the San Antonio; she left Port +Jackson four days after us, and was bound on a trading +speculation to the Moluccas and Singapore. In the forenoon I +visited the master, Mr. Hemmans, and offered him my guidance up +the coast, if he would wait until we had shifted our defective +masts; but he declined it as he was anxious to get on without +delay; and, having Captain Flinders' charts, intended to run "DAY +AND NIGHT THROUGH THE REEFS;" he told me that he had anchored +here with the intention of watering and cutting some pine spars, +but that not finding the latter worth the trouble, he was then +getting underweigh to proceed. When I went away, he accompanied +me to look over my plan of the passage; after which he returned +to his vessel, which soon afterwards steered past us on her way +to the northward. Mr. Hemmans told me that he had anchored under +Keppel Islands, where he had a friendly communication with the +natives, who used nets, which he thought were of European +construction; but from his description, they are similar to what +have been before seen on the coast, and are constructed by the +natives themselves.</p> +<p>June 13.</p> +<p>At eight o'clock the next morning we got underweigh; but the +Dick in weighing her anchor found both flukes broken off.</p> +<p>June 14.</p> +<p>The next day, we rounded the north extremity of the Cumberland +Islands.</p> +<p>June 15.</p> +<p>And at four o'clock a.m. the 15th, were abreast of Cape +Gloucester.</p> +<p>Thick cloudy weather with rain and a fresh breeze from the +southward, variable between South-South-East and +South-South-West, now set in, and was unfavourable for our seeing +the coast as we passed it: Cape Bowling Green was not seen, but +the gradual decrease of soundings from eighteen to fourteen +fathoms, and the subsequent increase of depth, indicated our +having passed this low and dangerous projection.</p> +<p>June 16.</p> +<p>At daylight of the 16th, we passed outside the Palm Islands at +the distance of five miles.</p> +<p>The weather continued so thick and rainy, that Mount +Hinchinbrook was quite concealed from our view; but a partial +glimpse of the land enabled me to distinguish Point Hillock, and +afterwards to see Cape Sandwich, Goold Island, and the group of +the Family Isles.</p> +<p>June 17.</p> +<p>In passing the largest Frankland Island, the San Antonio was +seen lying at anchor near it, with her fore topsail loose, firing +guns: seeing this, we hauled to the wind, and made sail to beat +up towards her, under the idea of her being in distress; but as +we approached, we observed a boat alongside, and her top-gallant +yards across, which were proofs that she was not in such +immediate danger, as to require our beating up, with the risk of +losing some of our spars, for the Dick had already sprung her +jib-boom; we, therefore, hove the vessels to, and soon afterwards +the San Antonio joined and passed under our stern, when Mr. +Hemmans informed me that the guns he had fired were intended as +signals to his boat, and that they were not meant for us. He had +been aground, he said, on a reef near the Palm Islands, but had +received no damage: light, however, as he pretended to make of +this accident, it was a sufficient lesson for him, and we soon +found he had profited by it, for instead of preceding us, he +quietly fell into our wake, a station which he never afterwards +left, until all danger was over, and we had passed through Torres +Strait.</p> +<p>I had now determined upon taking up an anchorage round Cape +Grafton during the continuance of the bad weather, and for that +purpose steered through the strait that separates the cape from +Fitzroy Island; and anchored in six fathoms mud, at about half a +mile from its northern extremity.</p> +<p>It is little remarkable that the day on which we anchored +should be the anniversary of the discovery of the bay; for +Captain Cook anchored here on the eve of Trinity Sunday, +fifty-one years before, and named the bay between Capes Grafton +and Tribulation, in reverence of the following day. In passing +between Cape Grafton and Fitzroy Island, eight or ten natives +were observed seated on the rocks at the south end of the beach: +one of them waved his spear to us as we passed, but the distance +was too great to take any notice of him.</p> +<p>In the afternoon we landed upon the small island in the bay, +and found it to be separated from the mainland by a very shoal +channel, through which our boat had some difficulty in passing; +the island is small, and formed of loose fragments of granite, +over which the decomposed vegetable matter had formed a soil, +which, although shallow, was sufficient to nourish some luxuriant +grass (panicum) and a robust species of eucalyptus: among these +large flights of cockatoos and parroquets were hovering, but they +were very shy, and did not allow us to approach them: a small +dove, common to other parts of the coast, was killed. A native +was seen walking along a sandy beach behind the island, but +proceeded without noticing our boat, which was at that time +passing.</p> +<p>June 18.</p> +<p>The following day the weather was so clear that, in the early +part of the morning, we distinctly saw the summit of the land at +the back of Cape Tribulation, bearing North 43 degrees West +(magnetic); it must have been fifty-five or sixty miles off; the +fall of the land towards the extremity of the cape was also seen, +bearing North 35 degrees 50 minutes West fifty-six miles.</p> +<p>In the afternoon I went on shore near the north extremity of +the Cape, to procure some bearings; after which we strolled +about, and found a temporary stream of water falling into the +sea. In walking past a grove of pandanus trees, which grew near +the water, we disturbed a prodigious quantity of bronze-winged +butterflies, reminding us, in point of number, of the Euploea +hamata, at Cape Cleveland in 1819. It proved to be a variety of +the Urania orontes (Godart) of Amboyna and the other Indian +Islands. Mr. Cunningham took advantage of the Dick's boat going +to the bottom of the bay, to cut grass: near their landing-place +he found some natives' huts; some of which were of more +substantial construction than usual, and were thatched with palm +leaves: inside of one he found a fishing rod, and a line, five or +six fathoms long, furnished with a hook made from a shell, like +the hooks of the South Sea Islanders: he also found a small +basket, made from the leaf of a palm-tree, lying near the remains +of their fireplaces, which were strewed with broken exuviae of +their shell-fish repasts.</p> +<p>A canoe twelve feet long, similar to the one described at +Blomfield's Rivulet (volume 1) was also seen; and, like it, was +not more than nine inches wide at the bilge. A small kangaroo was +seen by Mr. Cunningham feeding upon the grass, but fled the +moment that it saw him approaching.</p> +<p>Nothing more was seen of the natives, nor were any heard, or +suspected of being near us; had there been any number the party +would have been placed in an awkward situation, for upon landing, +they all incautiously, and very imprudently, separated, to amuse +themselves as they were inclined, without regarding the situation +of the boat, which was soon left dry by the ebbing tide; and it +was eight o'clock at night before they succeeded in launching +her. Immediately after its return, for which we had been waiting +four hours, we got underweigh, and were only just in time to save +the breeze, which carried us out into the offing: after a short +calm, the wind gradually freshened from South-South-West, and we +steered on under easy sail towards Cape Tribulation.</p> +<p>June 19.</p> +<p>On passing the cape two reefs were seen to seaward, which had +previously escaped our notice.</p> +<p>In the afternoon we anchored in ten fathoms, at about half a +mile from the north-west end of the reef that stretches for two +miles to the northward of the south-westernmost Hope Island; and, +as it was low water and the reef uncovered, we walked across it. +It is formed principally of coral, on the surface of which we +found the gray trepang; a small Chama gigas, a cypraea, a pretty +azure-coloured species of asteria, and a few bivalve shells. The +few birds that frequented the reef were very shy, and flew away +at our approach: they were principally pelicans and terns.</p> +<p>June 20.</p> +<p>After weighing the next morning, we steered North 1/2 West, a +course farther to seaward than we had previously taken, in order +to see the reefs more distinctly, and to prove the width and +extent of this part of the channel; but the sun was shining in +the direction of our course, and the shadows of the clouds upon +the water were at times so deceptious that, whilst they often +caused appearances of reefs where none existed, they concealed +others that, for the same reason, were not seen until we were +close to them. Having now the charge of two merchant-vessels, it +was necessary to proceed with caution, and therefore we steered +nearly over our last year's track, but notwithstanding, we now +discovered several new reefs, and informed ourselves of the +extent and shape of others which had escaped our previous +observation.</p> +<p>As we were rounding the two islands that lie close to the +south side of Lizard Island, a native was seen in a canoe, +paddling towards another who was sitting on the rocks watching +our movements; and, as we hauled round the south point of the +bay, two others were observed walking towards the beach; upon +seeing us they stopped short and retreated up the hill; but, +after we anchored and sent a boat on shore, which was accompanied +by one from the Dick, they advanced, and without much hesitation, +came forward and communicated with our party. They carried spears +with them, and each of our gentlemen had their fowling-pieces: +the appearance of Bundell, who on these occasions always took his +clothes off, perhaps gave them greater confidence. After some +vociferous and unintelligible parley, one of our gentlemen, in +order to give them further cause for the surprise which they had +already manifested to a great extent, unadvisedly fired his +fowling-piece; upon which, as might be expected, they became +distrustful and frightened, and, fixing their spears in their +throwing sticks, walked backwards at a quick pace, and withdrew +altogether towards the hills.</p> +<p>Lizard Island, and the Direction Isles to the south-westward, +are of very different character to the other islands which front +this coast, being high, rising to peaks, and of granitic +formation. Captain Cook, in his description of Lizard Island, +mentions it as being a good place to refresh at, on account of +its supplying both wood and water; but, at the same time we were +there, the latter was not found, although the rain had been +lately falling in great quantity; with the former, however, it is +well supplied. This island, from its connection with Captain +Cook's misfortunes during his perilous navigation within the +reefs, will always be an interesting feature in the history of +the discovery and examination of this coast, and deserves a more +appropriate appellation.</p> +<p>June 21.</p> +<p>Leaving Lizard Island the following morning, we directed our +course for Cape Flinders, over our last year's track. Upon +passing Port Ninian, the sea was observed to break heavily upon +the Barrier Reefs, which in this part approach nearer to the +mainland than at any other. As we doubled Cape Melville, the +wind, as usual, freshened up to a strong breeze, and carried us +rapidly across Bathurst Bay: to the westward of the cape several +natives were observed walking upon the beach.</p> +<p>In passing round Cape Flinders, there appeared to be a +considerable diminution in the remains of the Frederick's wreck. +No vestige was left of her stern or forecastle, both of which +were before so very conspicuous. At half-past five o'clock we +anchored with our companions near the usual place.</p> +<p>June 22.</p> +<p>The following morning, at daybreak, a party of men went to the +wreck to collect the spars and planks that had escaped the +mischievous fires of the natives; and at five o'clock I joined +them with the master of the Dick and Mr. Roe, ordering Mr. +Bedwell to relieve the shore party with some fresh hands at eight +o'clock. When the time arrived, supposing that the relief-party +had nearly reached the shore, I sent the people over the hill, in +order to be ready when the boat arrived to go on board; and in +the meantime amused myself in wandering about the reef near the +wreck, where Mr. Roe was also employed. Mr. Harrison (the master +of the Dick) was at the further end of the beach with his fowling +piece, with two of his boat's crew picking up shells: when +suddenly they were surprised by hearing a loud shout, and seeing +several spears strike the rocks about them: upon looking round, +Mr. Harrison found that a party of natives were advancing upon +him with their spears poised; upon which he presented his gun at +the foremost, but, from his having waded about in the water, the +powder had got damp and would not go off. Immediately that I +heard the shout of the natives, and saw Mr. Harrison retreating +from the Indians, who were in close pursuit, I hastened to his +assistance, and came up in time to prevent them from doing any +mischief; and, by occasionally levelling my gun, kept them at bay +whilst we retreated towards the wreck, from which we were about +half a mile distant. By this time Mr. Roe, who had also heard the +noise, joined; but, as he had not a gun, the only assistance he +brought was an addition to our number. Among the four foremost of +the natives was a mischievous boy, who, being emboldened by our +not firing, and showing an anxiety to get away from them, fixed +his spear and aimed it at me; upon which I fired my gun, but, as +it was only loaded with small shot, it had no effect at the +distance he was from me; the noise, however, arrested their +pursuit for a moment; and by the time they recovered their +surprise, I had reloaded with ball, but to my great +mortification, upon presenting the gun to deter the boy from +throwing his spear again, it missed fire: the weapon, which at +first was aimed at me, was then thrown at one of the Dick's men, +and, piercing his hat, which he was carrying at his breast, +fortunately, full of shells, only slightly wounded one of his +fingers. The man, who to all appearance was dangerously wounded, +for the spear stuck in the hat and hung suspended in the air, +drew it out, and, throwing it on the ground with the greatest +composure, continued to retreat. The natives then finding we were +not intimidated or hurt by the spears, began to make friendly +gestures, which we, of course, returned, but still continued to +walk away with our faces turned towards them.</p> +<p>We were now only four in number (for I had despatched one of +the Dick's people to recall our boat, and to order the crew over +to our assistance) and being without any means, or show of +defence, it required much caution and management on our part to +prevent their throwing any more spears; for they were now within +a few yards of us: their ferocity, however, began to diminish, as +their attention was taken by our clothes and a silk handkerchief +which Mr. Roe held out to them: they were about ten in number, of +whom five or six were armed with spears. Our only safety now was +in letting them approach, and amusing them by a display of our +silk handkerchiefs and other parts of our dress, and making all +the grimaces and monkey-like gestures we could think of.</p> +<p>Among the natives was a young woman, whom they repeatedly +offered to us by using the most significant signs; which she also +endeavoured to strengthen by appropriate gestures on her part; +but our inclinations were not consonant with the opportunity so +pressingly, but so suspiciously, offered. After our declining +this honour, they occasionally laid their hands upon our clothes +to detain us, but it did not require much force to make them quit +their hold. One of the men having seized my gun, I drew it out of +his hand rather roughly; but, accompanied at the same moment with +the friendly gesture of patting his breast, the recovery was +happily effected without exciting his anger.</p> +<p>In this manner, and with great fatigue, we continued our +retreat across the reef, and reached the wreck without any signs +of our people coming to our assistance; when the natives found we +intended to walk round the point, they divided, and gave their +spears to a party that went over the hills, as it were, to cut us +off; but in this intention, if they entertained it, they were +disappointed, for our boat was there, and the crew all embarked, +ready to shove off, little expecting ever to see us again. The +idea of being thus easily deserted by our people was for a moment +mortifying, but I ordered some of the crew on shore, and by our +numbers kept the natives amused on the beach, while Mr. Harrison +shoved off in his gig to give the alarm, and to order some +muskets to be sent for our protection: by the time, however, that +Mr. Bedwell arrived, we had succeeded in making friends with the +natives; who, upon perceiving that we had now in our turn the +superiority, began to draw away, and appeared to be as anxious to +get rid of us as we had been, half an hour before, to escape from +them; but we accompanied them halfway across the reef, watching +an opportunity to seize the boy who had wounded the Dick's man, +whom I intended to keep a prisoner while we were here, and then +to dismiss him with presents, to show that we were not inimical +to them, although angry at being so treacherously attacked. My +intention, however, was probably suspected, for they avoided our +approaching sufficiently near them to effect my purpose with the +certainty of success, I therefore called our people away to +resume their work at the wreck, and, after leaving orders with +Mr. Bedwell not to fire but in self-defence, and if an +opportunity offered, to seize the boy, went on board with the +party to breakfast. I had not, however, left the shore long +before hostilities again commenced, and several shots were +mischievously fired at the natives by some of the Dick's and San +Antonio's people, who, being advanced, had very improperly +endeavoured to cut off three of them, upon which one of the +natives poised his spear with a threat of throwing it, when +several muskets were fired at these miserable wretches, who, +fortunately for them, got clear off; although one of them by his +limping appeared to have been struck in the leg.</p> +<p>After this we saw nothing more of them for the day. Mr. +Bedwell was employed with his party at the wreck, whilst Mr. +Cunningham traversed the hills in the vicinity, for it was not +safe to trust himself at any distance from our people, since the +natives would not have failed, had they met with an opportunity, +to punish us for our broken faith.</p> +<p>June 23.</p> +<p>The following day, on the return of our people from the wreck, +they reported that the natives had shown themselves on the +opposite side of the bay; I therefore went to the shore with Mr. +Harrison, to endeavour to make peace, but saw no signs of them, +excepting a smoke on the next island, to which they had probably +retired. On the following day they were again seen, and fired +upon by the boat's crew of the Dick.</p> +<p>All these events gave me much concern, not only because the +natives may be induced to attack and take revenge upon strangers +who may subsequently pass this way, but also because they must +have imbibed a very poor idea of the effect of our arms, when so +many muskets were fired without doing them any mischief: and, but +for the sake of humanity, I could almost have wished that one had +been killed.</p> +<p>The day after we arrived here, a boat from the San Antonio +conveyed Mr. Montgomery and Mr. Cunningham to Clack's Island. The +reef abounded with shells, of which they brought back a large +collection, but not in any great variety; an indifferent cypraea +was the most common; but there were also some volutae and other +shells, besides trepang and asteriae, in abundance. Mr. +Cunningham observed a singularly curious cavern upon the rock, of +which he gave me a description in the following account of the +island:</p> +<p>"The south and south-eastern extremes of Clack's Island +presented a steep, rocky bluff, thinly covered with small trees. +I ascended the steep head, which rose to an elevation of a +hundred and eighty feet above the sea. I found simply the plants +of the main, namely, Mimusops parvifolia, Br.; Hoya nivea, +Cunningham manuscript; Acacia plectocarpa, Cunningham manuscript; +Chionanthus axillaris, Br.; Notelaea punctata, Br.; some alyxiae, +and the small orange-fruited ficus, which grew in the thickets, +and, by insinuating its roots in the interstices of the rocks, +clothed a great portion of the inaccessible front of the +island.</p> +<p>"The remarkable structure of the geological feature of this +islet led me to examine the south-east part, which was the most +exposed to the weather, and where the disposition of the strata +was of course more plainly developed. The base is a coarse, +granular, siliceous sandstone, in which large pebbles of quartz +and jasper are embedded: this stratum continues for sixteen to +twenty feet above the water: for the next ten feet there is a +horizontal stratum of black schistose rock, which was of so soft +a consistence, that the weather had excavated several tiers of +galleries; upon the roof and sides of which some curious drawings +were observed, which deserve to be particularly described: they +were executed upon a ground of red ochre (rubbed on the black +schistus) and were delineated by dots of a white argillaceous +earth, which had been worked up into a paste. They represented +tolerable figures of sharks, porpoises, turtles, lizards (of +which I saw several small ones among the rocks) trepang, +star-fish, clubs, canoes, water-gourds, and some quadrupeds, +which were probably intended to represent kangaroos and dogs. The +figures, besides being outlined by the dots, were decorated all +over with the same pigment in dotted transverse belts. Tracing a +gallery round to windward, it brought me to a commodious cave, or +recess, overhung by a portion of the schistus, sufficiently large +to shelter twenty natives, whose recent fireplaces appeared on +the projecting area of the cave.</p> +<p>"Many turtles' heads were placed on the shelfs or niches of +the excavation, amply demonstrative of the luxurious and profuse +mode of life these outcasts of society had, at a period rather +recently, followed. The roof and sides of this snug retreat were +also entirely covered with the uncouth figures I have already +described.</p> +<p>"As this is the first specimen of Australian taste in the fine +arts that we have detected in these voyages, it became me to make +a particular observation thereon: Captain Flinders had discovered +figures on Chasm Island, in the Gulf of Carpentaria, formed with +a burnt stick; but this performance, exceeding a hundred and +fifty figures, which must have occupied much time, appears at +least to be one step nearer refinement than those simply executed +with a piece of charred wood. Immediately above this schistose +stratum is a superincumbent mass of sandstone, which appeared to +form the upper stratum of the island." (Cunningham +manuscript.)*</p> +<blockquote>(*Footnote. Similar representations were found by Mr. +White, carved on stone in the neighbourhood of Port Jackson. +White's Journal quarto page 141.)</blockquote> +<p>June 25.</p> +<p>Having procured all the spars and planks from the wreck that +could be useful to us, we made preparations to sail, and at +daylight, the 25th, got underweigh with my two companions, and +resumed our course to the northward, over that of last year, +excepting that we steered inside of Pelican Island, and to +leeward of Island 4. We passed several large sting-rays asleep on +the surface of the sea, which our people ineffectually +endeavoured to harpoon. On the former island large flights of +pelicans were seen, and upon the sandbank, to the southward of +it, there was a flock of two or three hundred young birds.</p> +<p>The breeze not being sufficient to carry us to Night Island +before dark, the anchor was dropped in eleven fathoms muddy +bottom, two miles to the eastward of Island 8. The Dick and San +Antonio anchored close to us. During the night we had a fresh +breeze from South-East by East, and, not having any island or +reef to shelter us from the swell, we were obliged to drop a +second anchor to retain our position. The San Antonio drove for +some distance, but the Dick rode through the night without +driving, although she had but forty fathoms of cable out.</p> +<p>June 26.</p> +<p>On weighing the next morning, we made sail to the North by +West, but, from the compass-box not being quite straight in the +binnacle, we made a North by West 1/2 West course, which was not +discovered until we had nearly paid dear for our neglect; for we +passed close to a rock which I intended to have gone at least a +mile to windward of. It was seen just in time to put the helm +a-lee, or we should have run upon it.</p> +<p>The weather was now so thick that we could not see a mile +around us; we were therefore obliged to follow our former +courses, to avoid the risk of running over a strange track in +such unfavourable weather. At sunset we anchored under the lee of +Piper's Islets.</p> +<p>June 27.</p> +<p>The next day we anchored under Sunday Island in Margaret Bay, +at about half a mile from the sandy beach, on its north-west +side.</p> +<p>Here we were detained by bad weather until the 30th.</p> +<p>June 30.</p> +<p>When, with some slight appearance of improvement, and tired of +losing so much time, we weighed and proceeded on our course. +After passing the Bird Isles, thick weather again set in, with +constant rain, and a strong breeze from South-East. Upon reaching +Cairncross Island, under which it was my intention to anchor, the +sails were reduced; and, as we were in the act of letting go the +anchor, Mr. Roe, who was at the masthead holding thoughtlessly by +the fore-topmast staysail-halyards, whilst the sail was being +hauled down, was precipitated from a height of fifty feet, and +fell senseless on the deck. We were now close to the reef; and, +in the hurry and confusion attending the accident, and the Dick +at the same time luffing up under our stern, the anchor was +dropped, without my ascertaining the quality of the bottom, which +was afterwards found to be of a very questionable nature.</p> +<p>The Dick, having dropped her anchor within forty yards of us, +was lying so close as to prevent our veering more cable than +sixty fathoms, but as we appeared to ride tolerably easy with a +sheer to starboard, while the Dick rode on the opposite sheer, we +remained as we were: to prevent accident, the yards were braced +so that we should cast clear of the Dick if we parted, a +precaution which was most happily taken.</p> +<p>As soon as the distressing accident that had occurred was +known on board the Dick, Dr. Armstrong, a surgeon of the navy and +a passenger in that ship, hastened on board to assist Mr. +Montgomery in dressing Mr. Roe's hurt, which I found, to my +inexpressible satisfaction, was not so grievous as might have +been expected: his fall was, most providentially, broken twice; +first by the spritsail brace, and secondly by some planks from +the Frederick's wreck, which had fortunately been placed across +the forecastle bulwark over the cat-heads: his head struck the +edge of the plank and broke his fall, but it cut a very deep +wound over the right temple. This unfortunate event threatened to +deprive me of his very valuable assistance for some time, a loss +I could but very ill spare, particularly when upon the point of +returning to the examination of so intricate a coast as that part +where we last left off.</p> +<p>At six o'clock in the evening the flood-tide began to set to +leeward, and as night approached the appearance of the weather +became very threatening, accompanied by a descent of the mercury; +this gave me a very unfavourable idea of our situation: the wind +was blowing clear of the reef, and raised a heavy sea; and the +Dick was so close to us that we dared not veer cable, for fear of +getting on board of her, which must have happened if either ship +should break her sheer.</p> +<p>At half-past ten o'clock, during a very heavy squall, the +cable parted, but from the precaution above-mentioned, the brig +happily drifted with her head to starboard, and passed clear both +of the Dick and San Antonio; the chain-cabled anchor was then +dropped, and veered to ninety fathoms, which brought her up in +fifteen fathoms, mud; in which birth she appeared to ride much +easier than before. I was now very anxious about the lost anchor; +and, having expressed a wish to inform Mr. Harrison of our +situation, and to request him to recover our anchor in the +morning if the weather would permit, Mr. Bedwell volunteered to +go on board her; which, although a service of danger, was, if +possible to be effected, absolutely necessary. The boat was +lowered, and they shoved off, but as the crew were unable to pull +it ahead, I called her on board again, which was most fortunate; +for shortly afterwards the chain-cable parted also, and the brig +drove with her head towards the shore.</p> +<p>1821. July 1.</p> +<p>We had now the prospect of being obliged to keep under sail +during the remainder of the night. An attempt was made to veer, +in order that, by laying to with her head off shore, we might +have time to recover the cable, without endangering the security +of the vessel; but, from the weight of the chain at the bow, this +manoeuvre could not be effected; fearing, therefore, to drift any +more to the westward, in which direction we were making rapid +way, I was under the necessity of slipping the chain, by which we +lost one hundred fathoms of cable, which we could but badly +spare: being now freed from the impediment, the brig's head was +placed off shore; and after making sail, we fired several muskets +and showed lights, as signals to the Dick, who, it afterwards +appeared, kept a light up for our guidance; but the weather was +so squally and thick, with almost constant rain, that it was not +seen by us. It was half-past twelve o'clock when we made sail to +the North-East by East, deepening from fourteen to sixteen +fathoms, and when the hillocky summit of Cairncross Island bore +South by West, beyond which bearing we did not know how far we +could proceed with safety; we tacked to the South-South-West, and +proceeded in that direction until the island bore South, when we +were in fourteen fathoms. Having thus ascertained the depth of +this space, which was about three miles in extent, it was +occupied during the remainder of the night; which, being very +dark and squally, was passed by us in the greatest anxiety. At +day-dawn we were joined by our companions, and, as it was not +possible from the state of the weather to regain the anchors we +had lost, made sail towards Turtle Island, on our way to which we +passed Escape River: both of these places reminded us of former +perils, but the recollection of our providential preservation on +those occasions, as well as on many others during our former +voyages, increased the grateful feelings which we now felt for +our safety and protection during the last night, the anxieties +and circumstances of which can never be obliterated from our +minds.</p> +<p>Our course was directed entirely by the chart I had previously +formed; for the weather was so thick that for the greater part of +the way no land could be seen to guide us: by noon we had passed +between Cape York and Mount Adolphus, and in a short time rounded +the north end of Wednesday Island, and were steering between it +and the North-West Reef.</p> +<p>After passing the rock off Hammond's Island, we steered West +by South 1/2 South, but were obliged to haul up South-West by +West to pass to the southward of a small shoal, some part of +which was uncovered (the time of tide being nearly low water, +spring tide): this shoal lies in a North 50 degrees West +direction, from the low rocky ledge off the north end of Good's +Island, and is distant from it about a mile and a half. The Dick +being a little to leeward of our track, had four fathoms; but the +least we had was five and three-quarters. This reef is not +noticed in Captain Flinders' chart: at high water, or even at +half ebb, it is very dangerous, from its lying in the direct +track; but, by hauling over to the south shore, may be easily +avoided.</p> +<p>At four o'clock we passed Booby Island, and steered West by +South across the Gulf of Carpentaria.</p> +<p>July 3.</p> +<p>Between Booby Island and Cape Wessel, which we passed in sight +of on the 3rd, we had thick gloomy weather, with the wind between +South and East-South-East; and, after rounding the Cape had some +heavy rain, in which the mercury, having previously fallen to +29.91, rose to 29.95 inches. Lightning from the east and west +accompanied the rain, but the wind was steady, and did not +freshen or lull during the showers.</p> +<p>July 5.</p> +<p>On the 5th, at daylight, Goulburn Islands were seen, and at +nine o'clock we passed through the strait that divides them; our +track being half a mile more to the northward than that of last +year, we had more regular soundings.</p> +<p>As soon as we anchored in South-West Bay, I sent on shore to +examine our former watering-place, but found that the stream had +failed. The parched up appearance of the island showed that the +last had been an unusually dry season; every place that, even in +the month of August, six weeks later, had before yielded large +quantities, as well as the lagoon behind the beach, which, from +the nature of the plants growing in it, was conjectured to be a +never-failing supply, was now dried up.</p> +<p>July 6 to 8.</p> +<p>The next morning the brig's boat went over to Sims Island with +Mr. Cunningham, and there found a small quantity of water, +sufficient, according to Mr. Hemmans' report, for all our wants. +The next morning (7th) he moved the San Antonio over to the +island, and anchoring her off the sandy beach, landed his people +to dig holes. In the afternoon he sent me a specimen of what had +been collected; but it was so brackish that I gave up all idea of +shipping any: he had improvidently dug large holes, into which +all the water good and bad had drained, and thereby the good was +spoiled. The following morning he sent another specimen, which, +notwithstanding it was considerably better, was still too bad to +tempt me to embark any. During the San Antonio's stay at Sims +Island, our gentleman paid it a visit: its vegetation appeared to +have suffered as much from want of rain as Goulburn Island. "The +venerable tournefortia (Tournefortia argentea. Lin.) however, +appeared as an exception: this tree, which grows on the centre of +the beach, where it is remarkably conspicuous, appeared to have +resisted the dry state of the season; it was in full leaf, and +covered with a profusion of flowers, which attracted a variety of +insects, particularly of the genera apis, vespa, and sphex; and +among them a beautiful green-coloured chrysis." (Cunningham +manuscripts.)</p> +<p>During the two last days, our people were employed cutting +wood; no natives had made their appearance, although recent +tracks on the sand showed they were not far off; but on the +evening of the 7th, the surgeon, accompanied by Dr. Armstrong of +the Dick, landed in that vessel's gig, and, whilst amusing +themselves among the trees, and the boat's crew incautiously +wandering away from the boat, the natives came down, and would +have carried off all the boat's furniture, and everything in her, +had they not been disturbed by the return of one of the sailors +with a musket. They succeeded however, in making a prize of a new +boat-cloak, and the boat-hook, and one of them had nearly +succeeded in carrying off an oar, but upon being fired at, +dropped his booty and scampered off. This trifling loss was +deservedly sustained by our gentlemen, for they were well aware +how suddenly the natives have always appeared, and how +mischievously they had on those occasions conducted themselves: +they were also cautioned, when they went on shore to be upon +their guard, and it was fortunate for them that nothing more +serious occurred.</p> +<p>July 8.</p> +<p>At daylight, the 8th, the San Antonio rejoined us from Sims +Island, and at eleven o'clock we left the bay, and passed to the +eastward of New Year's Island: the Dick and ourselves then +steered to the westward along the coast, while the San Antonio +steered a north-west course, and parted company.</p> +<p>July 9.</p> +<p>The following day, being in sight of the land of Cape Van +Diemen, and having sent our letters on board the Dick for +conveyance to England, we parted company by an interchange of +three cheers; and it was not without a considerable degree of +regret that we took this leave of our friends; for it is but due +to Mr. Harrison to say that we received very great assistance +from him on several occasions: he offered us his stream anchor to +replace in some degree our loss, although he had himself only one +left; it was, however, much too small for our purpose.</p> +<p>By this opportunity I wrote to the Secretary of the Admiralty, +and the Under Secretary of State for the Colonies, and +communicating to them a brief account of our voyage up the east +coast, acquainted them of my intention of employing the +fine-weather months of July and August upon the north-west coast, +and then of going to Mauritius, to replace our anchors and cable, +previous to our examination of the west coast.</p> +<p><a name="chapter02"></a></p> +<h3>CHAPTER 2.</h3> +<blockquote>Passage from Cape Van Diemen to Careening Bay.<br> +Not finding water, visit Prince Regent's River, and procure it +from the Cascade.<br> +Farther examination of the river.<br> +Amphibious mud-fish.<br> +Anchor in Halfway Bay, and explore Munster Water and Hanover Bay +in a boat.<br> +Visit Hanover Bay, and procure water and fish.<br> +Interview with natives.<br> +The surgeon speared.<br> +Retaliate upon them, and capture their rafts and weapons.<br> +Description of their implements.<br> +Port George the Fourth.<br> +Islands to the westward.<br> +Red Island of Captain Heywood.<br> +Strong tides.<br> +Camden Bay.<br> +Buccaneer's Archipelago.<br> +Cygnet Bay.<br> +Dangerous situation of the brig.<br> +High and rapid tides.<br> +Cape Leveque.<br> +Examination of the coast to Cape Latouche Treville.<br> +Remarkable effect of mirage.<br> +Leave the coast for Mauritius.<br> +Voyage thither.<br> +Arrival at Port Louis.<br> +Refit.<br> +Some account of the island.</blockquote> +<p>1821. July 9.</p> +<p>Our course was held to the south-west towards Cape +Londonderry; on which, with a fresh South-East wind, we proceeded +with rapidity.</p> +<p>July 12.</p> +<p>On the morning of the 12th, Eclipse Hill and Sir Graham +Moore's Islands were seen, and in the afternoon we passed +Troughton Island; at sunset, Point Hillock bore South thirteen +miles, whence we steered to the West-North-West and North-West, +and rounded the north end of the long reef, to the westward of +Cape Bougainville.</p> +<p>July 13.</p> +<p>The next morning, at daylight, Cassini Island was seen bearing +South by West; here we were detained for two days by light +baffling winds and calms.</p> +<p>July 14.</p> +<p>During the night of the 14th, the wind was light from the +westward, and we stood off and on to the north of Cassini +Island.</p> +<p>July 15.</p> +<p>At half-past one o'clock a.m., having sounded in thirty-three +fathoms, we shoaled suddenly to fourteen, when the vessel's head +was put to the southward, but the breeze was so very light, that +she had hardly steerage way: by the light of the moon a line of +breakers was seen two miles off, under our lee: we had now +shoaled to nine fathoms on a rocky bottom, but its great +irregularity prevented our dropping the anchor until the last +minute, since it would have been to the certain loss of the only +one we had. In order, therefore, to save it, if possible, the +boat was lowered, and sent to sound between the vessel and the +breakers. Finding we made no progress off the reef by standing to +the southward, we tacked; and, a light breeze springing up from +the westward, we drew off the bank on a north-west course, and in +the space of a mile and a half deepened the water gradually to +thirty fathoms.</p> +<p>July 16.</p> +<p>The next morning, at a quarter past eight o'clock, the +breakers were again seen; they were found to be 24 minutes 44 +seconds West of Troughton Island. The wind was too light to allow +of our approaching, we therefore tacked off to the westward, and +soon lost sight of them; at noon we were in latitude 13 degrees +26 minutes 26 seconds. The breakers from the masthead, bearing +south-east, distant eight or nine miles.</p> +<p>During the ensuing night, having a fresh breeze, we stood +first to the westward, and afterwards to the south-east.</p> +<p>July 17.</p> +<p>At seven o'clock the next morning no land was in sight, but +breakers were seen extending from South by West to South-West by +South, about five miles off; and two miles beyond them was +another line of breakers, bearing from South-South-West to +South-West by West. As we steered obliquely towards them, they +were noticed to extend still farther to the eastward, but +apparently in detached patches; our soundings, as we stood on, +shoaled to fifteen fathoms; and we were shortly within half a +mile of an appearance of shoal-water, in thirteen fathoms on a +rocky bottom. The wind now began to lessen; and, for fear of +being becalmed, I was anxious to get an offing. By our +observations, we found the breakers this morning were connected +with those passed yesterday, and are a part of Baudin's +Holothurie Banks. The French charts of this part are very vague +and incorrect; for our situation at noon upon their plan (with +respect to the position of Cassini Island) was in the centre of +their reefs.</p> +<p>At noon we were in 13 degrees 38 minutes South, when a +freshening breeze from South-East enabled us to make progress to +the southward. At two o'clock some of the Montalivet Islands were +seen; and before three o'clock, an island was seen bearing South, +which proved, as we stood towards it, to be the northernmost of a +group lying off the north-west end of Bigge's Island; they were +seen last year from Cape Pond, and also from the summit of the +hills over Careening Bay.</p> +<p>July 19 to 21.</p> +<p>At daylight (19th) having laid to all night, this group was +about six leagues off, bearing from South 35 1/2 to 49 degrees +East, but a continuation of calms and light winds detained us in +sight of them until the 21st.</p> +<p>This group consists of eight or nine islands, and appears to +be those called by the French the Maret Isles; they are from one +quarter to a mile and a half in extent, and are rocky and +flat-topped; the shores are composed of steep, rocky cliffs. They +are fronted on the west side by a rocky reef extending in a +North-North-East and South-South-West direction.</p> +<p>During the calm weather, in the vicinity of this group, we had +seen many fish and sea-snakes; one of the latter was shot and +preserved; its length was four feet four inches; the head very +small; it had neither fins nor gills, and respired like +land-snakes; on each scale was a rough ridge: it did not appear +to be venomous. A shark was also taken, eleven feet long; and +many curious specimens of crustacea and medusa were obtained by +the towing-net. Some of the latter were so diaphanous as to be +perfectly invisible when immersed in the water. Among the former +were a species of phyllosoma, and the Alima hyalina of +Leach.*</p> +<blockquote>(*Footnote. Cancer vitreus. Banks and Solander +manuscripts. Lin. Gmel. tome 1 page 2991. Astacus vitreus. Fabr. +Syst. ent. page 417 n. 8.)</blockquote> +<p>At daylight we were about four leagues to the West-North-West +of Captain Baudin's Colbert Island; at the back of which were +seen some patches of the Coronation Islands. The night was passed +at anchor off the northernmost Coronation Island.</p> +<p>July 23.</p> +<p>And the following afternoon we anchored at about half a mile +from the sandy beach of Careening Bay.</p> +<p>As soon as the vessel was secured, we visited the shore, and +recognised the site of our last year's encampment, which had +suffered no alteration, except what had been occasioned by a +rapid vegetation: a sterculia, the stem of which had served as +one of the props of our mess-tent, and to which we had nailed a +sheet of copper with an inscription, was considerably grown; and +the gum had oozed out in such profusion where the nails had +pierced the bark that it had forced one corner of the copper +off.</p> +<p>The large gouty-stemmed tree on which the Mermaid's name had +been carved in deep indented characters remained without any +alteration, and seemed likely to bear the marks of our visit +longer than any other memento we had left.</p> +<p>The sensations experienced at revisiting a place which had so +seasonably afforded us a friendly shelter and such unlooked-for +convenience for our purposes, can only be estimated by those who +have experienced them; and it is only to strangers to such +feelings that it will appear ridiculous to say, that even the +nail to which our thermometer had been suspended, was the subject +of pleasurable recognition.</p> +<p>We then bent our steps to the water-gully, but, to our +mortification, it was quite dried up, and exhibited no vestige of +its having contained any for some time. From the more luxuriant +and verdant appearance of the trees and grass than the country +hereabout assumed last year, when the water was abundant, we had +felt assured of finding it and therefore our disappointment was +the greater.</p> +<p>July 24.</p> +<p>After another unsuccessful search in the bight, to the +eastward of Careening Bay, in which we fruitlessly examined a +gully that Mr. Cunningham informed me had last year produced a +considerable stream, we gave up all hopes of success here, and +directed our attention to the cascade of Prince Regent's River; +which we entered the next afternoon, with the wind and tide in +our favour, and at sunset reached an anchorage at the bottom of +St. George's Basin, a mile and a half to the northward of the +islet that lies off the inner entrance of the river, in seven +fathoms muddy sand.</p> +<p>July 26.</p> +<p>The following morning at half-past four o'clock Mr. Montgomery +accompanied me in the whale-boat to visit the cascade; we reached +it at nine o'clock and found the water, to our inexpressible +satisfaction, falling abundantly.</p> +<p>While the boat's crew rested and filled their baricas, I +ascended the rocks over which the water was falling and was +surprised to find its height had been so underrated when we +passed by it last year: it was then thought to be about forty +feet, but I now found it could not be less than one hundred and +fifty. The rock, a fine-grained siliceous sandstone, is disposed +in horizontal strata, from six to twelve feet thick, each of +which projects about three feet from that above it, and forms a +continuity of steps to the summit, which we found some difficulty +in climbing; but where the distance between the ledges was great +we assisted our ascent by tufts of grass firmly rooted in the +luxuriant moss that grew abundantly about the water-courses. On +reaching the summit, I found that the fall was supplied from a +stream winding through rugged chasms and thickly-matted clusters +of plants and trees, among which the pandanus bore a conspicuous +appearance and gave a picturesque richness to the place. While +admiring the wildness of the scene, Mr. Montgomery joined me; we +did not however succeed in following the stream for more than a +hundred yards, for at that distance its windings were so confused +among rocks and spinifex that we could not trace its source. +After collecting for Mr. Cunningham, who was confined on board by +sickness, a few specimens of those plants which, to me, appeared +the most novel, we commenced our descent, and reached the bottom +in safety; by which time the tide was ebbing so rapidly that we +set off immediately on our return with a view of arriving on +board by low-water, in order that no time might be lost in +sending the boats up with our empty water-casks.</p> +<p>During our absence Mr. Roe, who was fast recovering from the +effects of his fall, had obtained the sun's meridional altitude +upon the islet at the entrance of the river, which gave 15 +degrees 25 minutes 46 seconds for its latitude, differing from +the plan of last year by only fifteen seconds.</p> +<center> +<p><a name="king2-02"></a><img alt="" src="images/king2-02.jpg"></p> +<p><b>VIEW OF THE CASCADE IN PRINCE REGENT'S RIVER.<br> +From a sketch by P.P. King. Published in May 1825 by John Murray, +London.</b></p> +</center> +<p> </p> +<p>July 27.</p> +<p>The following day the boats were despatched up the river, but +as the ebb-tide ran until after four o'clock it was late at night +before they reached the cascade, having experienced some delay by +running upon the sandbanks, which, above Alligator Island, are +very numerous and form a narrow winding channel of not more than +twelve feet deep; these banks are dry at low-water, and are +composed of a yellow quartzose sand. At midnight, as soon as the +launch and cutter were loaded, for it did not take more than half +an hour to fill the casks, I despatched them to the vessel with +orders to return the following night for another load, and in the +meantime I purposed continuing the examination of the river, of +which we knew nothing beyond a few miles above the cascade.</p> +<p>July 28.</p> +<p>We were, however, unable to set out until half flood the next +morning, on account of the shoalness of the channel.</p> +<p>For ten miles we found little or no variation either in its +character or course: its windings were only just sufficient to +intercept a clear view; for so direct was its course, that from +this part the high round hill near the entrance was seen midway +between the hills that form the banks of the river.</p> +<p>Proceeding a little way farther, we were suddenly whirled into +a rapid amongst large stones, in the midst of which, as the +stream was running at the rate of five or six knots, the grapnel +was instantly dropped, which had the effect of reversing the +boat's head. After this the grapnel was weighed, and by very +great exertions we extricated ourselves from the rapid, and then +landed at a hundred yards below the fall, on the east bank, where +the mangroves were so thick that it was with difficulty we +penetrated through them: having succeeded, we walked to the bank +near the rapid, and found that it was occasioned by the tide +falling over a barrier of rocks, which probably at low-water +confines the fresh water above this place; a few minutes +afterwards it was high-water, and the tide suddenly ceased to +run; when the water became quite smooth and motionless.</p> +<p>A fresh-water rivulet, at that time the mere drainings of what +occasionally is a torrent, joined the main river, just above the +rapid, by a trickling stream; and made us the more desirous of +extending our knowledge of this extraordinary river: we therefore +re-embarked, and, passing the rapid, pulled up the river against +the tide for a mile farther, where it was suddenly terminated by +a beautiful fresh-water rivulet, whose clear, transparent stream +was so great a contrast to the thick, muddied water we had so +long been pulling through that it was a most gratifying sight, +and amply repaid us for all our fatigue and exertions. The fresh +water was separated from the salt tide by a gentle fall over +rounded stones; but as the boat was unable to pass over them, we +had only time to fill our water-vessels, in order to be certain +of returning over the first rapid, before the strength of the +stream rendered it dangerous to pass. The bed of the river at +this second fall appeared to be about two hundred and fifty yards +in breadth: its farther course was lost sight of by a sharp turn, +first to the North-East, and then to the South-East, between high +and rocky hills.</p> +<p>Large groves of pandanus and hibiscus and a variety of other +plants were growing in great luxuriance upon the banks, but +unhappily the sterile and rocky appearance of the country was +some alloy to the satisfaction we felt at the first sight of the +fresh water; as we did not, however, expect to find a good +country, the pleasure was not much diminished, and we set off on +our return, perfectly satisfied with the success of our labours: +we were at this time about fifty miles from the sea.</p> +<p>The ebb-tide had fallen for an hour when we passed the first +falls, but there was no appearance of that violence which we +witnessed in the morning; probably because the stream had not +reached its strength.</p> +<p>An alligator was seen on our return, swimming within two yards +of the boat, and a musket, charged with a ball and buck-shot, was +uselessly fired at it. The appearance of these animals in the +water is very deceptious; they lie quite motionless, and resemble +a branch of a tree floating with the tide; the snout, the eye, +and some of the ridges of the back and tail being the only parts +that are seen. The animal that we fired at was noticed for some +time, but considered to be only a dead branch, although we were +looking out for alligators, and approached within six yards of it +before we found out our mistake: the length of this animal was +from twelve to fifteen feet; I do not think that we have ever +seen one more than twenty feet long.</p> +<p>We reached the cascade by four o'clock and remained there +until our boats arrived for a second cargo of water, which was at +midnight; as soon as the casks were filled, we set off on our +return, but did not reach the brig until eight o'clock in the +morning.</p> +<p>July 29.</p> +<p>The fatigue and exposure which attended our watering at this +place were so great that I was obliged to give up the idea of +completing it now. We had obtained, by the two trips, enough to +last until the end of October, which, with the chance of finding +more upon other parts of the coast, was sufficient for our +intended mode of proceeding. The boats were therefore hoisted in, +and preparations made to leave the anchorage.</p> +<p>The river appears to abound with fish, particularly with +mullet; and porpoises were observed as high as the first falls, a +distance of fifty miles from the sea. A curious species of +mud-fish (chironectes sp. Cuvier) was noticed, of amphibious +nature, and something similar to what we have frequently before +seen; these were, however, much larger, being about nine inches +long. At low water the mud-banks near the cascade that were +exposed by the falling tide were covered with these fish, +sporting about, and running at each other with open mouths; but +as we approached, they so instantaneously buried themselves in +the soft mud that their disappearance seemed the effect of magic: +upon our retiring and attentively watching the spot, these +curious animals would re-appear as suddenly as they had before +vanished. We fired at several, but so sudden were their motions +that they generally escaped; two or three only were procured, +which appeared from their lying on the mud in an inactive state +to have been asleep; they are furnished with very strong pectoral +and ventral fins with which and with the anal fin, when required, +they make a hole, into which they drop. When sporting on the mud, +the pectoral fins are used like legs, upon which they move very +quickly; but nothing can exceed the instantaneous movement by +which they disappear. Those that were shot were taken on board, +but on account of the extreme heat of the weather they had become +so putrefied as to be totally unfit for preservation.</p> +<p>July 30.</p> +<p>The next day, the 30th, was spent in examining some bights in +the narrow part of the channel near Gap Island, so named from a +remarkable division in its centre, through which the high-tide +flows, and gives it the appearance of being two islands. It was +on this occasion that we explored Halfway Bay, where we were +fortunate in finding good anchorage, and in which we also +discovered a strait, that on a subsequent examination was found +to communicate with Munster Water, and to insulate the land that +forms the north-west shore of the bay: this island was called +after the late Right Honourable Charles Greville, whose name has +also been given to a family of plants (grevillea) that bears a +prominent rank in the botany of this country. The strait, in +which the tide was running at the rate of six or seven knots, was +not more than one hundred and fifty yards wide; but in one part +it was contracted to a much narrower compass, by a bed of rocks +that nearly extended across the strait, and which must originally +have communicated with the opposite shore.</p> +<p>We landed under the flat-topped hill, at the south end of +Greville Island, among the mangroves which skirt the shore, and +walked a few hundred yards round the point, to examine the course +of the strait; but the way was so rugged, and we had so little +time to spare, that we soon re-embarked and returned into Halfway +Bay. The geological character of the island is a red-coloured, +coarse-granular, siliceous sandstone, disposed in horizontal +strata, and intersected by veins of crystallised quartz. The +surface is covered by a shallow, reddish-coloured soil, producing +a variety of shrubs and plants.</p> +<p>After this we crossed the river, and examined the two bays +opposite to Gap Island, but found them so shoal and overrun with +mangroves that no landing could be effected in any part. In both +bays there is anchorage between the heads; but all the inner part +is very shoal, and perhaps at low water there is not more than +nine feet water within the heads. In the mid-stream of the river +the bottom is deep, and is formed entirely of shells over which, +on account of its being very narrow, the tide runs with great +strength; and from the irregularity of the bottom forms numerous +eddies and whirlpools, in which a boat is quite unmanageable.</p> +<p>During our absence, Mr. Bedwell examined our former +watering-place, at the back of St. Andrew's Island, and on his +return landed upon the sandy beach of a bay on the south-west +side of the basin, but was unsuccessful in his search for water +at both places.</p> +<p>The sea breeze freshened towards sunset, and fanned up the +fires that had been burning for the last three days in several +places upon the low land, and on the sides of the hills to the +westward of Mount Trafalgar; before night they had all joined, +and, spreading over the tops of the hills for a space of three +miles, produced a singularly grand and magnificent effect.</p> +<p>1821. August 1.</p> +<p>At half past five o'clock the next morning we were under sail +but, the breeze being light, had only time to reach the anchorage +under Greville Island in Halfway Bay, before the tide turned +against us. It was purposed to remain only during the flood; but, +on examination, the place was found to be so well adapted for the +purpose of procuring some lunar distances with the sun, to +correspond with those taken last year at Careening Bay, that we +determined upon seizing the opportunity; and as wood was abundant +on the island and growing close to the shores, a party was formed +to complete our holds with fuel, whilst Mr. Roe assisted me in +taking observations upon a convenient station on the north point +of the bay within Lammas Island, a small rocky islet covered with +shrubs, and separated from the easternmost point of Greville +Island by a very shoal and rocky channel.</p> +<p>During these occupations we examined Munster Water: on our way +to it we landed on the reef off the east end of the Midway Isles, +which was found to be more extensive than had been suspected, and +to embrace the group of small rocks, which at high-water only +just show their summits above the water; at high-tide there is at +least fifteen feet water over it, but being low-water when we +landed, the reef was dry. Upon it we found several varieties of +coral, particularly Explanaria mesenterina, Lam.; Caryophylla +fastigata, Lam.; and Porites subdigitata, Lam.: the only shell +that we observed upon the reef was a Delphinula laciniata, Lam. +(Turbo delphinus, Linn.). After obtaining bearings from its +extremity, as also from the summit of the outer dry rock, we +landed upon a small verdant-looking grassy mound, the +northernmost islet of the group; but we found the verdure of its +appearance was caused only by the abundance of the spinifex, +through which we had, as usual, much difficulty in travelling. +After procuring some bearings from its summit we re-embarked and +pulled up Munster Water, supposing that it was connected with the +strait at the back of Greville Island; but as the tide then +flowing was running in a contrary direction to what was expected +from the hypothesis we had formed, we began to suspect some other +communication with the sea, and in this we were not deceived; for +a narrow but a very deep strait opened suddenly to our view, at +the bottom of the Water, through which some of the islands in the +offing were recognised. In pulling through we had kept close to +the south shore, that we might not miss the communication with +Hanover Bay, but notwithstanding all our care we passed by +without noticing it, on account of the deceptious appearance of +the land; indeed the strait which we discovered leading to sea +was not seen until we were within two hundred yards of it, and +would also have escaped our observation had not the channel been +so direct that the sea horizon was exposed to our view. At the +bottom of this arm are two deep bays which were partially but +sufficiently examined. In most parts of Munster Water there is +good anchorage amongst several small rocky islands, on one of +which we landed, and climbed its summit, but saw nothing to repay +us for the trouble or the danger of the ascent: the surface was +composed entirely of loose blocks of sandstone, which, when trod +upon, would crumble away or roll down the nearly perpendicular +face of the rock; and it was only by grasping the branches of the +acacias and other trees that were firmly rooted in the +interstices of the less-decomposed rocks that we were saved from +being precipitated with them. On our return we passed through the +channel on the west side of the Midway Isles which we found to be +very deep and the stream very strong.</p> +<p>August 4.</p> +<p>The next day we pulled through the strait that insulates +Greville Island, and found that it communicated with Munster +Water at a part where we had yesterday concluded it likely to +exist, and had in consequence steered towards it; but as we +proceeded the probability became less and less, and we gave up +the search when we were within three hundred yards of being +actually in it.</p> +<p>We then pulled up Munster Water and afterwards through the +strait to sea; and, landing on some dry rocks on a reef which +projects off the west head of the strait, found that we were at +the entrance of the bight, which was last year named Hanover Bay: +after taking a set of bearings, we re-embarked and proceeded to +the bottom of the bay which terminated in a shoal basin.</p> +<p>On our return we entered an opening in the rocky cliff which +bore the appearance of being the outlet of a torrent stream; +being low-water, there was not in many parts sufficient depth to +float the boat; but after pulling up for half a mile, a muddy +channel was found, which, at the end of another half mile, was +terminated by a bed of rocks over which the tide flows at +high-water. The ravine is formed by steep precipitous rocks which +are at least two hundred and fifty feet high; it appeared to +extend to a considerable distance, and as the farther progress of +the boat was prevented by the stones and want of water, Bundell +and two of the boat's crew were despatched to examine a place +farther on, where, from the green appearance of the trees, it was +thought not unlikely that there might be a fresh stream. In this +they were not disappointed, for after much delay and trouble, +from the difficulty of passing over the rocks, they returned with +two baricas full of fresh water, which they found in holes of +considerable size.</p> +<p>In pulling up the river, an alligator was seen crawling slowly +over the mud banks, but took to the water before we came near it +and did not afterwards reappear. Many kangaroo-rats and small +kangaroos were seen skipping about the rocks, but they were very +shy, and fled the moment they saw us.</p> +<p>Hanover Bay thus proving to afford good anchorage and an +opportunity of increasing our stock of water, as well as +presenting a sandy beach on which we could haul the seine, it was +determined that we should visit it as soon as the brig could be +moved out of Prince Regent's River.</p> +<p>On our return, which was over the same ground as we had passed +in the morning, we landed near two or three gullies on the inner +side of the island, which forms the eastern boundary of Munster +Water, but were unsuccessful in all our searches after fresh +water.</p> +<p>August 6.</p> +<p>At daylight on the 6th we got underweigh to a light air of +wind from the southward, to leave Prince Regent's River; but +notwithstanding the vessel was under all sail she was very nearly +thrown upon Lammas Island by the tide, which was setting with +great strength through the shoal passage between it and Sight +Point: as we passed without it we were not more than five yards +from the rocks. The wind then fell to a dead calm and the brig +was perfectly immovable in the water; but, drifted by the tide +and whirled round by the eddies, we were fast approaching the +body of the largest Midway Island, with a very great uncertainty +on which side of it the tide would drift us: when we were about +three hundred yards from the island the direction of the stream +changed and carried us round its south-east side, at about two +hundred yards from the shore, but close to the low rocks off its +east end, on which we landed two days since. We were under great +anxiety for fear of being driven over the reef, on which there +could not have been sufficient water to have floated us; but our +fears of that danger were soon over for the tide swept us rapidly +round it. At this moment a light air sprang up which lasted only +five minutes, but it was sufficient to carry us past the junction +of the Rothsay and Munster Waters with the main stream. The +vessel was at times unmanageable from the violent whirlpools +through which we passed, and was more than once whirled +completely round upon her keel; but our former experience of a +similar event prepared us to expect it, and the yards were as +quickly braced round.</p> +<p>Having passed all the dangers, the ebb-tide very soon carried +us out of the river into Hanover Bay. In passing the easternmost +of the outer isles, the shrill voices of natives were heard +calling to us, and Bundell returned their shout, but it was some +time before we could discern them on account of the very rugged +nature of the island: at last three Indians were observed +standing upon the rocks near the summit of the island but, as the +tide was running out with great strength, we were soon out of +hearing.</p> +<p>Soon after one o'clock the brig was anchored at about half a +mile off the sandy beach in Hanover Bay, in eight fathoms (half +flood) muddy bottom. The boats were immediately hoisted out and +sent up the river, but the tide was ebbing and the difficulty of +filling the casks so great that, after great labour, we only +procured a puncheon of water. The launch was moored without the +rocky bed of the river, while the jolly-boat conveyed the baricas +to her as they were filled, but even the latter could not get +within three hundred yards of the water, so that the people had +to carry the baricas over the rugged bed of the river for that +distance, which made the work laborious and slow; still however +it was much less distressing than the fatigue of watering from +the cascade in Prince Regent's River. At night a successful haul +of the seine supplied our people with abundance of fish, among +which were mullets weighing from three to five pounds; cavallos, +whitings, silver fish, breams, and two species of guard-fish.</p> +<p>August 7.</p> +<p>While our people were employed the next morning in washing the +decks, they heard at a distance the voices of natives; at eight +o'clock they were again heard and at ten o'clock they were close +by; shortly afterwards three, of whom one was a woman, were seen +standing on the rocks waving their arms. Being curious to +communicate with the inhabitants of this part of the coast, since +we had not seen any between this and Vansittart Bay, a party +consisting of the surgeon, Mr. Bedwell, Mr. Baskerville, and +myself, went on shore to the place where the natives were seated +waiting for us. Bundell, who generally accompanied us on these +occasions divested of his clothes, stood up in the bow of the +boat, and, as we approached the shore, made signs of friendship, +which the natives returned, and appeared quite unconcerned at our +approach. On landing we climbed the rocks on which the two men +were standing, when we found that the woman had walked away: upon +our approach they retired a few paces and evidently eyed us in a +distrustful manner; but, as they had dropped their spears, and +repeated the sign of peace that we had made to them, we did not +hesitate to walk towards them unarmed, desiring the boat's crew +to be prepared with the muskets, if called. When we joined them +they had their spears poised ready to throw, but on our +presenting them with some of the fish that we had caught the +preceding evening they dropped their spears and immediately +returned us something in exchange; one gave a belt, made of +opossum fur, to Bundell; and the other, the tallest of the two, +gave me a club that he carried in his hand, a short stick about +eighteen inches long, pointed at both ends. This exchange of +presents appeared to establish a mutual confidence between us, +and, to strengthen it, I presented my friend with a clasped +knife, after showing him its use, the possession of which +appeared to give him great pleasure.</p> +<p>By this time Mr. Montgomery and Mr. Bedwell joined us; the +latter gentleman was unarmed, but the former had a pistol +concealed under his coat and carried a fish which he held out for +them to take; but, as they would not approach us nearer than two +or three yards, he threw it towards them, when the shortest +native picked it up. Upon this accession to our numbers they +began to talk to each other, and at the same time picked up their +spears; but as the latter appeared only to be a cautionary +movement we did not anticipate their mischievous intentions. I +then, with a view to amuse them, made signs to my friend for the +knife, which he put into my hands without showing the least +reluctance, upon which he was again instructed how to open and +shut it; but as this, instead of pacifying, only served to +increase their anger, the knife was thrown at his feet, which he +instantly picked up, and then both retired a few paces in a very +suspicious manner.</p> +<p>We were at this time about three or four yards from the +natives, who were talking to each other in a most animated way, +and evidently intent upon some object; and, as it appeared +probable that, if we remained any longer, a rupture would ensue, +it was proposed that our party should retire to the boat, under +the idea that they would follow us down; no sooner, however, had +we waved to them our farewell, and turned our backs to descend +the rocks, than they unexpectedly, and in the most treacherous +manner, threw their spears; one of which, striking a rock, broke +and fell harmless to the ground, but the other, which was thrown +by the tallest man, wounded Mr. Montgomery in the back; the +natives then, without waiting to throw their second spears, made +off, closely pursued by Bundell, who had armed himself with the +broken spear; but they were out of sight in a moment, and, by the +time that the muskets were brought to our assistance, were +doubtless out of gun-shot. A pursuit was, however, commenced, but +our progress was so much impeded by the rugged and rocky nature +of the ground and by the abundance and intricate growth of the +shrubs and trees that we very soon desisted, and returned to the +boat, to which Mr. Montgomery had been in the meantime carried, +complaining of great weakness from loss of blood.</p> +<center> +<p><a name="king2-03"></a><img alt="" src="images/king2-03.jpg"></p> +<p><b>WEAPONS ETC. OF THE NATIVES OF HANOVER BAY.<br> +1. Stone Spear Head (Full size.) From a Drawing by F. Chantrey, +Esquire, F.R.S.<br> +2. Section of a Stone Spear Head (Full size.) From a Drawing by +F. Chantrey, Esquire, F.R.S.<br> +3. Spear armed with the Stone head.<br> +4. Throwing-stick.<br> +5. Hatchet.<br> +Published in May 1825 by John Murray, London.</b></p> +</center> +<p> </p> +<p>Upon examining Mr. Montgomery's wound, which unfortunately was +in such a part of his body that he could not himself inspect it, +it appeared that the spear had penetrated about three inches; +and, from the quantity of extravasated blood, great fears were +entertained that he had received a very serious internal injury. +The wound, from which he was suffering very great pain, was +dressed according to his instructions, but it was several days +before he considered himself out of danger.</p> +<p>August 8.</p> +<p>The next morning at eleven o'clock a native was seen on a +float, or catamaran, paddling round the west point of the strait, +and another man, a woman, and a child, were observed on the +rocks, who, in less than a quarter of an hour, came down to the +spot where we met them yesterday, and began to wave and call to +us. An opportunity now offered of punishing these wretches for +their treacherous conduct, and of disappointing them in their +present plans, for they were evidently intent upon some mischief. +Mr. Bedwell was therefore despatched to secure their catamaran, +which was hauled up on a sandy beach near the outer point, whilst +another boat was sent towards the natives: when the latter +arrived near the shore, they were sitting on the rock and +inviting us to land; but it was necessary to convince them that +we were not so defenceless as they imagined, and, as soon as we +were sufficiently near, several muskets were fired over their +heads: one of them fell down behind a rock, but the other made +off. The native who had fallen was wounded in the shoulder, and +was recognised to be the man that speared Mr. Montgomery; he made +several attempts to get away, but every time his head appeared +above the rock which concealed him from us, a pistol or a musket +was fired to prevent his escape; at last, however, he sprang up, +and, leaping upon the rock with a violent effort, was +instantaneously out of sight.</p> +<p>As soon as he was gone we pulled round to the sandy bay where +the natives had landed and overtook Mr. Bedwell, who was passing +by the place. Upon the beach we found two catamarans, or floats, +on each of which a large bundle of spears was tied with ligatures +of bark; and on searching about the grass we soon found and +secured all their riches, consisting of water-baskets, tomahawks, +spears, throwing-sticks, fire-sticks, fishing-lines, and +thirty-six spears; some of the latter were of large size, and +very roughly made, and one was headed with a piece of stone +curiously pointed and worked. This last spear is propelled by a +throwing-stick, which was also found lying by it. After launching +the catamarans and securing everything found upon them, they were +towed round by the boats to where we had fired upon the natives, +whilst a party walked over land to examine the place. On the way +several spears were discovered placed ready for use on their +retreat to the beach, where, from the quantity collected, they +evidently intended to make a stand; supposing no doubt from our +appearance yesterday that we were defenceless, and would +therefore fall an easy prey. On reaching the rock, behind which +the native fell, it was found covered with blood; and Bundell, +who probably did the deed, said the wound was on his shoulder. We +traced their retreat by the blood for half a mile to the border +of a mangrove inlet, which they had evidently crossed, for the +marks of their feet were perceived imprinted in the mud. We then +gave up the pursuit, and went on board.</p> +<p>Upon examining the baskets, among other things a piece of iron +hoop was found fixed in a wooden handle, which it seemed they had +used for the purpose of digging up roots. This hoop must have +been left by us last year at Careening Bay. But what chiefly +attracted our attention was a small bundle of bark, tied up with +more than usual care; upon opening it we found it contained +several spear-heads, most ingeniously and curiously made of +stone; they were about six inches in length, and were terminated +by a very sharp point; both edges were serrated in a most +surprising way; the serratures were evidently made by a sharp +stroke with some instrument, but it was effected without leaving +the least mark of the blow: the stone was covered with red +pigment, and appeared to be a flinty slate. These spear-heads +were ready for fixing, and the careful manner in which they were +preserved plainly showed their value, for each was separated by +strips of bark, and the sharp edges protected by a covering of +fur. A wound with such a spear must be mortal; and it was very +fortunate for Mr. Montgomery that his was not inflicted with one +of these truly formidable weapons. Their hatchets were also made +of the same stone, the edges of which are ground so sharp that a +few blows serve to chop off the branch of a tree.</p> +<p>The catamarans consisted of five mangrove stems lashed +together to a frame of smaller wood, as in Woodcut 2: they are +bouyant enough to carry two natives, besides their spears and +baskets. A representation of this mode of conveyance is also +given in <a href="#king2-00">the title page of this +volume</a></p> +<center> +<p><a name="king2-04"></a><img alt="" src="images/king2-04.jpg"></p> +<p><b>WOODCUT 2: RAFT OF THE NATIVES OF HANOVER BAY.</b></p> +</center> +<p> </p> +<p>These natives were more robust-looking men than any we had +before seen; the tallest must have been at least six feet two +inches high; their bodies were scarred all over; their teeth +perfect, and they were quite naked. The shorter native had his +hair collected into a knob at the top of his head, which gave him +a ferocious appearance. The punishment they so justly received +will make them respect in future the formidable nature of our +arms.</p> +<p>At night we hauled the seine, and procured about four dozen +fish, principally mullet. An armed party was stationed above the +beach to prevent any attack from the natives, but they did not +show themselves.</p> +<p>August 9.</p> +<p>On the following day we again heard them shouting and +hallooing but it was some time before we could observe their +situation; at last five were discovered by the aid of a +telescope, seated on the summit of a hill behind the beach, +occupied in making spears; at a little distance were two others, +one of whom was distinguished to be the native that had escaped +unwounded; the other, a stranger, was chopping a branch off a +tree, which he was seen to trim and scrape into a rough spear. +During the time they were thus employed, they frequently hallooed +to us; no notice was however taken of their cries, although the +temptation was very great of firing a shot over their heads to +show them that they were still within our reach. As soon as they +had finished their work and had made about a dozen spears, they +all got up and walked away.</p> +<p>After they disappeared behind the hill it was thought not +unlikely that they would attack our people at the watering-place; +the party were therefore sent away in the afternoon well armed, +but the natives did not make their appearance, and the boats +returned at sunset without having been disturbed. The tide was so +trifling and the difficulty of loading the boat so great that +only ninety gallons of water were procured; and as we were not +likely to make quicker progress unless we waited for the +spring-tides, we gave up all idea of completing our water, and +made preparations to leave the bay.</p> +<p>August 10.</p> +<p>On the following day (10th) as there was no wind all the +morning, I sent for another turn of water but only obtained +enough for one day's issue; for the tide did not rise more than +four feet. In the meantime I visited the extreme point on the +west side of the bay, and examined in my way some openings in the +land that, from their appearance, promised to afford water: as it +was low tide I could not enter them, for they were blocked up by +banks of sand and rocks; but on my return the tide was higher, +and I pulled about one mile up the northernmost inlet, where I +was again stopped by the shoalness of the water. All these places +must afford abundance of fresh water during the rainy season, and +perhaps are seldom without; and, as this was a year of unusual +drought, it is not improbable that the river in which we watered +generally afforded a very considerable stream; if so, from its +proximity to the anchorage, the bay is of great importance, and +is an excellent place for refreshment: turtle might be procured +at the islands in its vicinity, and abundance of very fine fish +at the sandy beach: the anchorage is safe in all parts, being +protected from the sea by the islands in the offing, which front +the bay. There is also abundance of wood that may be cut close to +the waterside.</p> +<p>Ships detained during the westerly monsoon, as far to leeward +as the meridian of 125 degrees, would find an advantage in +putting into Hanover Bay, and remaining there until the wind +should veer round: by which they would avoid the necessity of +beating to windward, over such dangerous ground as extends +between this part to Timor; and, by being to the southward, out +of the strength of the westerly winds, at the latter end of +February and beginning of March, when southerly and south-east +winds prevail on the coast, they might much earlier effect their +passage to the westward.</p> +<p>The beach of Hanover Bay is situated in latitude 15 degrees 18 +minutes 21 seconds, and 13 minutes 40 seconds West of our +observatory at Careening Bay, which makes its longitude 124 +degrees 47 minutes 5 seconds East of Greenwich.</p> +<p>August 11.</p> +<p>The next morning (11th) we left Hanover Bay and steered out at +the distance of a mile and a half from the western shore. After +passing round the western head, we entered a deep opening, and, +running into it for some distance between a rocky shore on either +side, came into an extensive basin, in the centre of which was a +high island which we saw at a distance last year, and then called +the Lump, from its shape. As a set of bearings from this island +was desirable, the vessel was anchored abreast of it at about a +mile and a half from the shore; having landed upon it in time to +observe the sun's meridional altitude in the artificial horizon, +we ascended its summit and obtained the desired bearings; we also +discovered Freycinet's Island on the horizon, bearing North 13 +degrees 42 minutes West; this island was distinguished easily by +its form, which is that of an inverted basin. A large island lies +in the centre of the entrance of the port, by which two channels +are formed; the westernmost has several patches of rocks in it, +but the eastern one, which we used, appeared to be clear and free +from danger, excepting a rocky shelf projecting from the eastern +shore for not more than three quarters of a mile. In the +afternoon we examined the former, and from a summit at the +south-west end of the island in the entrance obtained another set +of bearings. Afterwards we sounded its channel, and found a deep +passage, but too narrow and intricate to be preferred to the +eastern channel.</p> +<p>Whilst one boat was thus employed, Mr. Baskerville went to +examine an opening at the bottom of the port, which he reported +to be a strait, trending round to the South-West for six miles, +beyond which his view was intercepted by the next projecting +point. The strait, which he called after Captain R.H. Rogers, +R.N., is sprinkled with many islands and dry reefs of great +extent.</p> +<p>August 12.</p> +<p>On the 12th I was occupied in laying down the plan of this +place, which, on account of the day, was honoured with the name +of our most gracious king, Port George the Fourth.</p> +<p>August 13.</p> +<p>The next day we sailed out by the eastern channel, but having +to beat against the wind, made no further progress than an +anchorage off Point Adieu, which was the last land seen by us in +the Mermaid; it is the north end of the land that forms the west +side of Port George the Fourth, which was afterwards called +Augustus Island: to the westward of the point there appeared to +be many islands and much broken land. I sent Mr. Roe to Point +Adieu to get some bearings from the summit of the hill, and in +the meantime Mr. Baskerville sounded the channel between the +point and the islands; which he found to be deep and clear; Mr. +Roe's report, however, of the appearance of the inner part among +the islands was not so favourable, for it is studded over with +numerous extensive reefs, which, being low water, were exposed to +view. Mr. Roe saw a tolerably broad separation between two +islands to the south-west, but more to the westward the islands +were so numerous that very little information as to their shape +or number could be obtained.</p> +<p>August 14.</p> +<p>At daylight the following morning we weighed, and with a +moderate land-breeze from South-East, steered to the North-West, +and passed round the islands. Very far to the northward on the +sea horizon we saw a sandbank, surrounded with heavy breakers; +and more to the westward was an island, which was at first +supposed to be one of the Champagny Isles of Captain Baudin, but +which I afterwards satisfied myself was Captain Heywood's Red +Island: it is rocky and of small extent and apparently quite +barren. We were soon afterwards abreast of a strait leading +between some rocky islands to the southward; which, as it +appeared to be free from danger, we purposed to steer through. +The brig entered it at noon, when it was high-water, and as she +advanced and reached the narrow part, the ebb-tide was setting so +strong against us that, although we were sailing five knots by +the log, we were losing ground; we continued however to persevere +for three hours and a half, and had run nearly twenty miles by +the log without gaining an inch; the breeze then died away, and +not being able to stem the tide, we steered back for anchorage, +but it was dark and late before a favourable bottom was found so +that we lost all the progress that we had gained since noon.</p> +<p>August 15.</p> +<p>The next morning, after taking angles from the sun's rising +amplitude, we got underweigh and stood towards the strait to make +another attempt to pass through it. The view that was obtained +yesterday evening from the masthead before we put about to look +for anchorage, induced us to suppose that many reefs existed in +the neighbourhood of its south entrance, for one of very +extensive size was observed dry, lying off the south-west end of +the island that bounds the west side of the strait. The north end +of that island also appeared to be fronted by many shoals, which +either embrace Red Island and extend to the northward, or else +the channels are narrow and deep. The flowing tide, now in our +favour, carried us quickly forward: as we passed on we heard the +voices of natives and soon afterwards perceived two standing on a +hill; our course was, however, so rapid that we were soon out of +sight of them; their fires were seen yesterday but then they did +not make their appearance.</p> +<p>The flood-tide, running to the South-West through the strait, +meeting the ebb flowing North-East into the deep bay to the +South-East, formed many strong ripplings, which to a stranger +would have been a frightful vortex to have entered, and although +we had lately been accustomed to such appearances, yet we did not +encounter them without some fear. After clearing them we sounded +on a muddy bottom; upon which, as the weather was so thick and +hazy as to conceal the land from our view, we anchored in +seventeen fathoms muddy sand, at six miles from the strait.</p> +<p>In the afternoon the weather cleared a little, but it was +still too thick for us to be underweigh, so that we remained all +the evening, which was profitably spent in bringing up the chart; +a little before sunset the weather cleared and afforded a good +view of the land, which to the South-East is composed principally +of islands, but so numerous that the mainland could not be +distinguished beyond them; a point, afterwards called Point Hall, +round which the land trended to the southward, bore from the +anchorage South 19 degrees East.</p> +<p>The direction of the tides, the flood setting +South-South-East, and the ebb North-North-West and North-West, +induced me to suppose that the opening to the eastward of the bay +we were at anchor in, which was called Camden, in compliment to +the noble Marquess, was not only connected with Rogers Strait, +but was also the outlet of another considerable river or bay.</p> +<p>At the anchorage the flood did not run at a greater rate than +a mile and a half an hour, but it ebbed two miles, and fell +thirty-seven feet, which is the greatest rise and fall we had yet +found; it is probable, from the intricate nature of the coast, +that these high tides are common to all this neighbourhood.</p> +<p>August 16.</p> +<p>At five o'clock on the morning of the 16th after a fine night +the wind sprung up from the East-South-East and blew fresh; but +misty weather immediately after sunrise enveloped us, and clouded +our view. The breeze was too fresh for us to continue at anchor, +we therefore got underweigh, and made sail by the wind; but upon +standing across the channel and finding that the flood-tide set +to the South-West, we bore away, and, passing round Point Hall, +steered to the southward towards some low islands that were just +visible through the haze, and which, being disposed in a group, +were named after Mr. Andrew Montgomery, the surgeon of the +Bathurst.</p> +<p>At noon our latitude observed to the South was 15 degrees 44 +minutes 16 seconds. The land was visible from the deck as far as +South 30 degrees West, but from the masthead at one o'clock it +was seen as far as South 50 degrees West, and a long low island, +the westernmost of Montgomery Isles, bore from South-West by West +to South-West by South. The group besides this contained six +other isles, which are all low and rocky and crowned with bushes: +as we approached them the water shoaled to ten fathoms rocky +ground; which on being reduced to the depth of low water, would +not be more than five and perhaps only four fathoms. Between +Point Hall and these islands the ground was also rocky, and, as +the group appeared to be connected by reefs, we steered off to +pass round them; the wind, however, changing to the westward, +detained us all the evening near them.</p> +<p>The land to the southward trended deeply in and appeared to be +much broken in its character and very uninviting to us who had +only one anchor to depend upon. This bight was named, at Mr. +Montgomery's request, in compliment to the late Captain Sir +George Collier, Bart., K.C.B., R.N. During the greater part of +the night the wind was light, and by the bearings of a fire on +the land we were making but little drift.</p> +<p>August 17.</p> +<p>At sunrise we were near two low islands, bearing South 12 +degrees 22 minutes West, and South 20 degrees West, from which +very extensive reefs were seen extending between the bearings of +South and South-West by West. They were called Cockells Isles. We +passed round their north end over a bottom of hard sand, mixed +with shells, stones, and coral; in doing which we found an +irregular depth, but as the water did not shoal to less than +twelve fathoms our course was not altered. Soon after the sun +appeared above the horizon the distant land was again enveloped +in mist. At eight o'clock we ventured to steer more southerly, +but continued to sound over a rocky bottom until ten o'clock, +when the islands bore South-East; we then steered South-West +through a muddy channel with the flood tide in our favour, +towards some land that, as the mist partially cleared off, became +visible as far as South-West 1/2 West; some islands were also +seen bearing South-South-East; and at noon, being in latitude 15 +degrees 50 minutes 39 seconds, we found ourselves off a bay, the +east head of which was formed by several islands. The land at the +back appeared to be of tolerable height but its outline was so +level, that it did not present any prominent feature sufficiently +defined to take a bearing of more than once; its coast appeared +to be fronted by several rocky islands and to be very much +intersected to the westward; either by straits or considerable +openings.</p> +<p>The continued hazy state of the weather prevented our +ascertaining the particular feature of the country; it seemed to +be rocky and very bare of vegetation; but they were some parts, +particularly on one of the islands to the eastward at the +entrance of Collier's Bay, where a few good-sized trees were +growing over a sandy beach.</p> +<p>The ebb tide after noon was against us, and the wind being +light, we were making no progress. As sunset approached, we began +to look for anchorage; but the suspicious nature of the bottom +and the great depth of the water prevented our being successful +until some time after dark; the anchor was at last dropped in +twenty-eight fathoms, on a bottom of sandy mud, with the ebb-tide +setting to the North-West, at the rate nearly of two knots.</p> +<p>Several whales of that species called by whalers fin-backs +were playing about us all day, and during the morning two or +three were seen near the vessel lashing the water with their +enormous fins and tails, and leaping at intervals out of the sea, +which foamed around them for a considerable distance.</p> +<p>After anchoring the wind was variable and light from the +western quarter but during the night there was a heavy swell. The +flood-tide, which commenced at nine o'clock, when the depth was +twenty-eight fathoms, gradually ran stronger until midnight, when +its rate was two miles per hour: high-water took place at 3 hours +15 minutes a.m., or at twelve minutes before the moon passed her +meridian; the rise being thirty-six feet.</p> +<p>August 18.</p> +<p>We were underweigh before six o'clock the next morning, and +after steering by the wind for a short time towards the southward +(on which course the tide being against us we were making no +progress) bore up with the intention of hauling round the point +to leeward for anchorage, whence we might examine the place by +the means of our boats, and wait for more favourable weather; but +upon reaching within half a mile of the point we found that a +shoal communication extended across to a string of islands +projecting several miles to sea in a West-North-West direction: +in mid channel the sea was breaking, and from the colour of the +water it is more than probable that a reef of rocks stretches the +whole distance across the strait; but this appearance, from the +experience we afterwards had of the navigation of this part, +might have been produced by tide ripplings, occasioned by the +rapidity of the stream, and by its being contracted in its +passage through so narrow a pass; it was however too doubtful and +dangerous to attempt without having some resource to fly to in +the event of accident.</p> +<p>Being thus disappointed, we were under the necessity of +steering round the above-mentioned range of islands, and at nine +o'clock were two miles North-East by East from the small island +18, when our latitude by observation was 15 degrees 57 minutes 56 +seconds; the depth being thirty-seven fathoms, and the bottom of +coral mixed with sand, mud, and shells.</p> +<p>To the westward and in a parallel direction with this line of +islands was another range, towards which we steered; at sunset we +hauled to the wind for the night, off the northernmost island +which afterwards proved to be the Caffarelli Island of Captain +Baudin. Between these two ranges of islands we only obtained one +cast of the lead which gave us thirty-three fathoms on a coral +bottom. Upon referring to the French charts of this part of the +coast it appeared that we were in the vicinity of a reef (Brue +Reef) under which the French ships had anchored; and, as the +night was passed under sail, we were not a little anxious, +fearing lest there might be others in its neighbourhood.</p> +<p>August 19.</p> +<p>At daybreak Caffarelli Island bore South-South-East; and +shortly afterwards we had the satisfaction of seeing Brue Reef; +it appeared to be partly dry but of small extent.</p> +<p>We passed within half a mile of the dry rock that lies a mile +and a half from the west end of Caffarelli Island and afterwards +endeavoured to steer between the range of islands, of which +Caffarelli is the northernmost, and a group of rocky isles, +marked 33; but finding we could not succeed from the scanty +direction of the wind, then blowing a fresh breeze from +South-East, we bore up round the west side of the latter and then +steered by the wind towards a group of which the island 40 is the +principal. On approaching 40 there appeared to be a channel round +its south-end; but afterwards observing the sea breaking in the +direction of our course, we tacked off to pass round the west +extremity of the group, towards two small low islands, 50 and 51, +that were seen in the distance bearing about South 84 degrees +West. The tide, having been before in our favour, was now against +us, and, setting with great strength, drove us near the rocks +that front the islands to the northward of Island 40; the wind +was however sufficiently strong to enable us to clear the +dangerous situation we found ourselves in, but soon afterwards it +fell to a light air and we were carried by the tide rapidly +towards the low rocky extremity of the islets, which we were +nearly thrown upon, when a breeze suddenly sprung up again from +the South-East and enabled us to clear this impending danger. We +were now drifting to the South by East through a wide channel, +sounding in between fifty and sixty fathoms, rocky bottom. Had +the evening been less advanced and the wind favourable, we could +have run through, and taken our chance of finding either +anchorage or an open sea; and although this would certainly have +been hazarding a great risk, yet it was of very little +consequence in what part of the archipelago we spent the night, +as the spots which we might consider to be the most dangerous +might possibly be the least so. We had however no choice; we were +perfectly at the mercy of the tide, and had only to await +patiently its ebbing to drift us out as it carried us in.</p> +<p>By our calculations high-water should have taken place at a +quarter past four o'clock; every minute therefore after that time +was passed by us most anxiously. Every now and then we were in +the midst of the most violent ripplings and whirlpools, which +sometimes whirled the vessel round and round, to the danger of +our masts. Five o'clock at last arrived and the tide-eddies +ceased, but the stream continued to run until a quarter of an +hour afterwards, when at last the brig began to drift out slowly. +To add now to the dilemma and the danger we were in a breeze +sprung up against us: had it continued calm we should have been +drifted back through the deepest part of the channel, over the +same ground that the flood had carried us in: we however made +sail and beat out, and before dark had made considerable +progress; we then lost sight of the land until eleven o'clock +when some was seen to the eastward: at half-past eleven we had a +dead calm; and, to increase our anxiety, the tide had begun to +flow and to drift us towards the land, which was then ascertained +to be the group 33, on whose shores the sea was distinctly heard +to break. As midnight approached the noise became still more and +more plain; but the moon at that time rose and showed that our +position was very much more favourable than we had conjectured; +for, by bearings of Caffarelli Island and the body of 33 group, I +found we were at least two or three miles from the shore of the +latter.</p> +<p>August 20.</p> +<p>A few minutes after midnight we were relieved from our fears +by the sudden springing up of a fresh breeze from South-West, and +in a moment found ourselves comparatively out of danger.</p> +<p>At daylight we were eight miles to the north-east of +Caffarelli Island; whence we steered to the South-West by West +and South-South-West. Brue Reef was seen as we passed by it. At +noon our latitude was 16 degrees 14 minutes 1 second, Cape +Leveque bearing South.</p> +<p>From noon until one o'clock we were steering South-South-West, +but made no progress, on account of an adverse tide which +occasionally formed such strong eddies and ripplings that we were +several times obliged to steer off to get without their +influence. The land of Cape Leveque is low, and presents a sandy +beach lined by a rocky reef, extending off the shore for a mile, +on many parts of which the sea was breaking heavily: the land was +clothed with a small brush wood, but altogether the coast +presented a very unproductive appearance, and reminded us of the +triste and arid character of the North-West Cape.</p> +<p>On laying down upon the chart the plan of this part, I found +Cape Leveque to be the point which Dampier anchored under when on +his buccaneering voyage in the Cygnet in 1688. He says: "We fell +in with the land of New Holland in 16 degrees 50 minutes, we ran +in close by it, and finding no convenient anchoring, because it +lies open to the North-West, we ran along shore to the eastward, +steering North-East by East, for so the land lies. We steered +thus about two leagues, and then came to a point of land, from +whence the land trends east and southerly for ten or twelve +leagues; but how, afterwards, I know not. About three leagues to +the eastward of this point there is a pretty deep bay with +abundance of islands in it, and a very good place to anchor in or +to hale ashore. About a league to the eastward of that point we +anchored in twenty-nine fathom, good hard sand and clean ground." +He then proceeds to say: "This part of it (the coast) that we saw +is all low, even land, with sandy banks against the sea, only the +points are rocky, and so are some of the islands in the +bay."*</p> +<blockquote>(*Footnote. Dampier volume 1 page 462.)</blockquote> +<p>From this description I have little hesitation in settling +Cape Leveque to be the point he passed round. In commemoration, +therefore, of his visit, the name of Buccaneer's Archipelago was +given to the cluster of isles that fronts Cygnet Bay, which was +so-called after the name of the ship in which he sailed. The +point within Cape Leveque was named Point Swan after the Captain +of the ship; and to a remarkable lump in the centre of the +Archipelago the name of Dampier's Monument was assigned. During +the last four days we have laid down upwards of eighty islands +upon the chart, and from the appearance of the land it is not +improbable but that there may be as many more behind them.</p> +<p>Had we even recognised the bay above alluded to by Dampier +before we passed round Cape Leveque, we could not have anchored +in it for the wind was blowing strong from the northward, and a +heavy swell was rolling, which would have placed us in rather a +dangerous situation, besides its being exposed to easterly winds, +which for the last two or three days had blown very strong. +During the time we had been among these islands, we had not met +with a single spot that we could have anchored upon without the +almost certain loss of our anchor; and the weather had been so +very thick and hazy that only the land in the vicinity of the +vessel's situation could be at all distinguished; and these +disadvantages, added to the great strength of the wind and the +rapidity of the tides, had materially prevented us from making +ourselves better acquainted with the place. It is remarkable that +as soon as we passed round the Champagny Isles, hazy weather +commenced, and continued without intermission until we were to +the westward of Cape Leveque. The French complain of the same +thing; and they were so deceived by it that, in their first +voyage, they laid down Adele Island as a part of the main, when +it is only a sandy island about two or three miles long. No +natives were seen on any of the islands but there were many large +smokes on the horizon at the back of Cygnet Bay.</p> +<p>We were now beginning to feel the effects of this fatiguing +duty. One-fourth of the people who kept watch were ill with +bilious or feverish attacks, and we had never been altogether +free from sickness since our arrival upon the coast. Mr. +Montgomery's wound was, however, happily quite healed, and Mr. +Roe had also returned to his duty; but Mr. Cunningham, who had +been confined to the vessel since the day we arrived in Careening +Bay, was still upon the sick list. Our passage up the east coast, +the fatigues of watering and wooding at Prince Regent's River, +and our constant harassing employment during the examination of +the coast between Hanover Bay and Cape Leveque, had produced +their bad effects upon the constitutions of our people. Every +means were taken to prevent sickness: preserved meats were issued +two days in the week in lieu of salt provisions; and this diet, +with the usual proportions of lemon-juice and sugar, proved so +good an anti-scorbutic that, with a few trifling exceptions, no +case of scurvy occurred. Our dry provisions had suffered much +from rats and cockroaches; but this was not the only way these +vermin annoyed us, for, on opening a keg of musket ball +cartridges, we found, out of 750 rounds, more than half the +number quite destroyed, and the remainder so injured as to be +quite useless.</p> +<p>August 21.</p> +<p>The following day we made very little progress, from light +winds in the morning and a dead calm the whole of the evening. At +sunset we anchored at about four miles from the shore, in +seventeen fathoms sandy ground.</p> +<p>During the afternoon we were surrounded by an immense number +of whales, leaping out of the water and thrashing the sea with +their fins; the noise of which, from the calmness and perfect +stillness of the air, was as loud as the report of a volley of +musketry. Some remorae were also swimming about the vessel the +whole day, and a snake about four feet long, of a yellowish brown +colour, rose up alongside, but instantly dived upon seeing the +vessel.</p> +<p>August 22.</p> +<p>High-water took place the next morning at twenty-six minutes +after six o'clock, at which time we got underweigh with a +moderate land-breeze from South-South-East, and steered to the +southward along the shore. At noon we were in latitude 16 degrees +30 minutes 19 seconds, Cape Borda bearing South 42 1/2 degrees +East. Soon after noon the sea-breeze sprung up from the northward +and, veering to North-West, carried us to the southward along the +coast which is low and sandy. At three o'clock we were abreast of +a point which was conjectured to be the land laid down by the +French as Emeriau Island; the name has therefore been retained, +with the alteration only of Point for Island. To the eastward of +Cape Borda the coast falls back and forms a bay, the bottom of +which was visible from our masthead and appeared to be composed +of sand-downs. From Point Emeriau the coast trends to the +south-west, and preserves the same sandy character. At five +o'clock Lacepede Islands, which were seen by Captain Baudin, were +in sight to the westward; and at sunset we anchored in eight +fathoms, at about three leagues within them. These islands are +three in number, and appear to be solely inhabited by boobies and +other sea-fowl: they are low and sandy and all slightly crowned +with a few shrubby bushes; the reef that encompasses them seemed +to be of great extent.</p> +<p>August 23.</p> +<p>The next day we were steering along the shore, and passed a +sandy projection which was named Cape Baskerville, after one of +the midshipman of the Bathurst. To the southward of Cape +Baskerville the coast trends in, and forms Carnot Bay; it then +takes a southerly direction. It is here that Tasman landed, +according to the following extract from Dalrymple's Papua: "In +Hollandia Nova, in 17 degrees 12 minutes South (Longitude 121 +degrees, or 122 degrees East) Tasman found a naked, black people, +with curly hair, malicious and cruel; using for arms, bows and +arrows, hazeygaeys and kalawaeys. They once came to the number of +fifty, double armed, dividing themselves into two parties, +intending to have surprised the Dutch, who had landed twenty-five +men; but the firing of guns frightened them so, that they fled. +Their proas are made of the bark of trees; their coast is +dangerous; there are few vegetables; the people use no +houses."</p> +<p>At noon our latitude was 17 degrees 13 minutes 29 seconds. At +four o'clock we were abreast of Captain Baudin's Point Coulomb, +which M. De Freycinet describes to be the projection at which the +Red Cliffs commence. The interior is here higher than to the +northward, and gradually rises, at the distance of eight miles +from the shore, to wooded hills, and bears a more pleasing and +verdant appearance than we have seen for some time past; but the +coast still retains the same sandy and uninviting character. +During the afternoon we had but a light sea-breeze from the +westward; and at sunset the anchor was dropped in thirteen +fathoms fine soft sand, at about six miles from the shore. Large +flocks of boobies flew over the vessel at sunset, directing their +course towards the reefs of Lacepede Islands, and in the +direction of the Whale Bank, which, according to the French chart +of this part, lies in the offing to the westward. As no island +was noticed by us in the position assigned to Captain Baudin's +Carnot Island, the bay to the southward of Cape Baskerville has +received that name. The smokes of fires have been noticed at +intervals of every four or five miles along the shore, from which +it may be inferred that this part of the coast is very populous. +Captain Dampier saw forty Indians together, on one of the rocky +islands to the eastward of Cape Leveque, and, in his quaint +style, gives the subjoined interesting account of them:</p> +<p>"The inhabitants of this country are the miserablest people in +the world. The Hodmadods of Monomatapa, though a nasty people, +yet for wealth are gentlemen to these; who have no houses, and +skin garments, sheep, poultry, and fruits of the earth, ostrich +eggs, etc., as the Hodmadods have: and setting aside their human +shape, they differ but little from brutes. They are tall, +straight-bodied, and thin, with small, long limbs. They have +great heads, round foreheads, and great brows. Their eye-lids are +always half closed, to keep the flies out of their eyes; they +being so troublesome here, that no fanning will keep them from +coming to one's face; and without the assistance of both hands to +keep them off, they will creep into one's nostrils, and mouth +too, if the lips are not shut very close; so that from their +infancy, being thus annoyed with these insects, they do never +open their eyes as other people; and therefore they cannot see +far, unless they hold up their heads, as if they were looking at +somewhat over them.</p> +<p>"They have great bottle-noses, pretty full lips, and wide +mouths. The two fore-teeth of their upper jaw are wanting in all +of them, men and women, old and young; whether they draw them +out, I know not: neither have they any beards. They are +long-visaged, and of a very unpleasant aspect, having no one +graceful feature in their faces. Their hair is black, short and +curled, like that of the negroes; and not long and lank like the +common Indians. The colour of their skins, both of their faces +and the rest of their body, is coal-black, like that of the +negroes of Guinea.*</p> +<blockquote>(*Footnote. The natives of Hanover Bay, with whom we +communicated, were not deprived of their front teeth, and wore +their beards long; they also differed from the above description +in having their hair long and curly. Dampier may have been +deceived in this respect, and from the use that they make of +their hair, by twisting it up into a substitute for thread, they +had probably cut it off close, which would give them the +appearance of having woolly hair like the negro.)</blockquote> +<p>"They have no sort of clothes, but a piece of the rind of a +tree tied like a girdle about their waists, and a handful of long +grass, or three or four small green boughs full of leaves, thrust +under their girdle, to cover their nakedness.</p> +<p>"They have no houses, but lie in the open air without any +covering; the earth being their bed, and the heaven their canopy. +Whether they cohabit one man to one woman, or promiscuously, I +know not; but they do live in companies, twenty or thirty men, +women, and children together. Their only food is a small sort of +fish, which they get by making weirs of stone across little coves +or branches of the sea; every tide bringing in the small fish, +the there leaving them for a prey to these people, who constantly +attend there to search for them at low water. This small fry I +take to be the top of their fishery: they have no instruments to +catch great fish, should they come; and such seldom stay to be +left behind at low water: nor could we catch any fish with our +hooks and lines all the while we lay there. In other places at +low water they seek for cockles, mussels, and periwinkles. Of +these shell-fish there are fewer still; so that their chief +dependence is upon what the sea leaves in their wares; which, be +it much or little, they gather up, and march to the places of +their abode. There the old people that are not able to stir +abroad by reason of their age, and the tender infants, wait their +return; and what Providence has bestowed on them, they presently +broil on the coals, and eat it in common. Sometimes they get as +many fish as makes them a plentiful banquet; and at other times +they scarce get every one a taste; but be it little or much that +they get, every one has his part, as well the young and tender, +the old and feeble, who are not able to go abroad, as the strong +and lusty. When they have eaten they lie down till the next low +water, and then all that are able march out, be it night or day, +rain or shine, 'tis all one; they must attend the weirs, or else +they must fast; for the earth affords them no food at all. There +is neither herb, root, pulse, nor any sort of grain for them to +eat, that we saw; nor any sort of bird or beast that they can +catch, having no instruments wherewithal to do so.</p> +<p>"I did not perceive that they did worship anything. These poor +creatures have a sort of weapon to defend their weir, or fight +with their enemies, if they have any that will interfere with +their poor fishery. They did at first endeavour with their +weapons to frighten us, who, lying ashore, deterred them from one +of their fishing-places. Some of them had wooden swords, others +had a sort of lances. The sword is a piece of wood shaped +somewhat like a cutlass.* The lance is a long straight pole, +sharp at one end, and hardened afterwards by heat. I saw no iron, +nor any sort of metal; therefore it is probable they use stone +hatchets, as some Indians in America do, described in Chapter +4.</p> +<blockquote>(*Footnote. Probably a boomerang. See volume +1.)</blockquote> +<p>"How they get their fire I know not; but probably as Indians +do, out of wood. I have seen the Indians of Bon-Airy do it, and +have myself tried the experiment. They take a flat piece of wood +that is pretty soft, and make a small dent in one side of it, +then they take another hard, round stick, about the bigness of +one's little finger, and sharpened at one end like a pencil, they +put that sharp end in the hole or dent of the flat soft piece, +and then rubbing or twirling the hard piece between the palm of +their hands, they drill the soft piece till it smokes, and at +last takes fire.</p> +<p>"These people speak somewhat through the throat; but we could +not understand one word that they said. We anchored, as I said +before, January the 5th, and seeing men walking on the shore, we +presently sent a canoe to get some acquaintance with them; for we +were in hopes to get some provision among them. But the +inhabitants, seeing our boat coming, run away and hid themselves. +We searched afterwards three days in hopes to find their houses, +but found none; yet we saw many places where they had made fires. +At last, being out of hopes to find their habitations, we +searched no farther; but left a great many toys ashore, in such +places where we thought they would come. In all our search we +found no water, but old wells on the sandy bays.</p> +<p>"At last we went over to the islands, and there we found a +great many of the natives; I do believe there were forty on one +island, men, women, and children. The men on our first coming +ashore, threatened us with their lances and swords; but they were +frightened by firing one gun, which we fired purposely to scare +them. The island was so small that they could not hide +themselves; but they were much disordered at our landing, +especially the women and children; for we went directly to their +camp. The lustiest of the women snatching up their infants ran +away howling, and the little children run after squeaking and +bawling; but the men stood still. Some of the women, and such +people as could not go from us, lay still by a fire, making a +doleful noise, as if we had been coming to devour them: but when +they saw we did not intend to harm them, they were pretty quiet, +and the rest that fled from us at our first coming, returned +again. This their place of dwelling was only a fire, with a few +boughs before it, set up on the side the winds was of.</p> +<p>"After we had been here a little while, the men began to be +familiar, and we clothed some of them, designing to have some +service of them for it; for we found some wells of water here, +and intended to carry two or three barrels of it aboard. But it +being somewhat troublesome to carry to the canoes, we thought to +have made these men to have carried it for us, and therefore we +gave them some old clothes; to one an old pair of breeches, to +another a ragged shirt, to the third a jacket that was scarce +worth owning; which yet would have been very acceptable at some +places where we had been, and so we thought they might have been +with these people. We put them on them, thinking that this finery +would have brought them to work heartily for us; and our water +being filled in small long barrels, about six gallons in each, +which were made purposely to carry water in, we brought these our +new servants to the wells, and put a barrel on each of their +shoulders for them to carry to the canoe. But all the signs we +could make were to no purpose, for they stood like statues, +without motion, but grinned like so many monkeys, staring one +upon another; for these poor creatures seem not accustomed to +carry burdens; and I believe that one of our ship-boys of ten +years old would carry as much as one of them. So we were forced +to carry our water ourselves, and they very fairly put the +clothes off again, and laid them down, as if clothes were only to +work in. I did not perceive that they had any great liking to +them at first, neither did they seem to admire anything that we +had.</p> +<p>"At another time our canoe being among these islands seeking +for game, espied a drove of these men swimming from one island to +another; for they have no boats, canoes, or bark-logs. They took +four of them, and brought them aboard; two of them were +middle-aged, the other two were young men about eighteen or +twenty years old. To these we gave boiled rice, and with it +turtle and manatee boiled. They did greedily devour what we gave +them, but took no notice of the ship, or any thing in it, and +when they were set on land again, they ran away as fast as they +could. At our first coming, before we were acquainted with them, +or they with us, a company of them who lived on the main, came +just against our ship, and standing on a pretty high bank, +threatened us with their swords and lances, by shaking them at +us: at last the captain ordered the drum to be beaten, which was +done of a sudden with much vigour, purposely to scare the poor +creatures. They hearing the noise, ran away as fast as they could +drive; and when they ran away in haste, they would cry gurry, +gurry, speaking deep in the throat. Those inhabitants also that +live on the main would always run away from us; yet we took +several of them. For, as I have already observed, they had such +bad eyes, that they could not see us till we came close to them. +We did always give them victuals, and let them go again, but the +islanders, after our first time of being among them, did not stir +for us."*</p> +<blockquote> +<p>(*Footnote. Dampier volume 1 page 464 et seq.)</p> +</blockquote> +<p>At this anchorage we perceived very little rise and fall of +tide, and the flood and ebb both set to the northward, this was +also the case at our anchorage within the Lacepede Islands. At +four o'clock the next morning a strong south-easterly breeze +sprang up, and moderated again before we weighed; but no sooner +were we under sail than it freshened again, and, at half-past +five o'clock, blew so strong as to oblige our double reefing the +topsails, which had not been done for many weeks before. At noon +the wind fell, and was very calm, at which time our latitude +observed was 17 degrees 36 minutes 38 seconds. The highest part +of the land bore North 70 1/2 degrees East, south of which a +sandy point, supposed to be Captain Baudin's Cape Boileau, bore +South 87 degrees East; and a smoke, a little to the northward of +the masthead extreme, bearing South 42 degrees East must be upon +the land in the neighbourhood of Cape Latreille.</p> +<p>Soon after noon the breeze veered round by South to +West-South-West, and enabled us to make some progress; at sunset +we again anchored in thirteen fathoms, soft sand, at six miles +from a sandy projection of the main, which we afterwards found to +be the land called by Captain Baudin, Gantheaume Island; the name +has therefore been given to the point, for there was no +appearance of its being insulated. It bears a truly desolate +appearance, being nothing but ridges of bare white sand, scantily +crowned with a few shrubby bushes.</p> +<p>Behind Point Gantheaume the land appeared to be formed by +downs of very white sand; and between this point and Cape Boileau +is a bay, which at first, from the direction of the flood stream +at the anchorage, was conjectured to be an inlet; but as the tide +afterwards set to the Northward and North-East, it was concluded +to be occasioned by the stream sweeping round the shores of the +bay: according to the depth alongside there was a rise of ten +feet; after high-water the ebb set between North 1/2 West and +North-North-East, at the rate of a quarter to three quarters of a +knot.</p> +<p>During the whole day the horizon was occupied by haze, and +produced a very remarkable effect upon the land, which was so +raised above the horizon by refraction that many distant objects +became visible that could not otherwise have been seen. This +mirage had been frequently observed by us on various parts of the +coast, but never produced so extraordinary an effect as on the +present occasion. The coastline appeared to be formed of high +chalky cliffs, crowned by a narrow band of woody hillocks; and +the land of Cape Villaret was so elevated as to be distinctly +seen at the distance of forty miles, whereas two days afterwards, +the weather being clear, it was not visible above the horizon for +more than five leagues. This state of the atmosphere caused a +rapid evaporation during the day, and as the evening approached a +very copious dew commenced falling, which by sunset was +precipitated like a shower of rain.</p> +<p>The next morning the land was again enveloped in haze, but at +seven o'clock it cleared off a little, and the coast was observed +to trend round Point Gantheaume to the south-east, but as we had +last evening seen it as far to the westward as South-West by +South, we steered in the latter direction under the idea of there +being no opening to the southward of the point, since the +flood-tide flowed from it instead of towards it, as it naturally +would have done had there been any inlet of consequence +thereabout.</p> +<p>As usual, we had been surrounded by whales, and large flights +of boobies; one of the latter lighted upon the deck this +afternoon, and was easily taken; it seemed to be the same bird +(Pelecanus fiber) that frequents the reefs upon the north and +north-eastern coasts. Between sunrise and midday our progress was +much retarded by light south-easterly winds. At noon we were in +17 degrees 51 minutes 45 seconds South: after which the +sea-breeze set in from South-South-West and South-West, and we +steered to the southward. The land was now visible considerably +to the southward of Point Gantheaume, but of a very low and sandy +character; and as we proceeded it came in sight to the +South-South-West. At sunset we anchored about five or six miles +to the north of Captain Baudin's Cape Villaret; the extreme, +which was in sight a little without it, was doubtless his Cape +Latouche-Treville. From Cape Villaret the land trended to the +East-North-East, and was seen very nearly to join the shore at +the back of Point Gantheaume.</p> +<p>The dew was precipitated as copiously this evening as the +last, and the sun set in a very dense bank; but the night was +throughout fine. We now began to experience a more considerable +set of tide than we had found since rounding Cape Leveque, for +the rate was as much as a knot and a half; but as the tides were +neaped it only rose nine feet.</p> +<p>At an anchorage near this spot, in the year 1699, Captain +Dampier remarks that the tide rose and fell five fathoms, and ran +so strong that his nun-buoy would not watch: but the French +expedition, at an anchorage a little to the southward, found the +flood-tide to set South-South-East and to rise only nine feet, +the moon being then three days past her full. All these +particulars have been mentioned, since it is from the nature of +the tides that Captain Dampier formed his hypothesis of the +existence of either a strait or an opening between this and the +Rosemary Islands; but from our experience it would appear more +probable that these great tides are occasioned by the numerous +inlets that intersect the coast between this and Cape Voltaire; a +further examination, however, can only prove the real cause.</p> +<p>August 26.</p> +<p>At daylight (26th) we weighed with a light breeze from +South-West, but soon afterwards falling calm, and the tide +drifting us to the South-East the anchor was again dropped: ten +minutes afterwards a land breeze from East-South-East sprung up, +to which we again weighed, but no sooner were we under sail than +we were enveloped in a thick mist that blew off the land, where +it had been collecting for the last two days. At eleven o'clock +the fog cleared away to seaward, but the land was screened from +our view until noon, when a sea breeze from west gradually +dispersed the fog, and the hillocky summit of Cape +Latouche-Treville was seen, bearing South 17 degrees West. At +half-past twelve two rocky lumps on the land to the westward of +Cape Villaret were seen, and very soon afterwards the hill on the +cape made its appearance. Between Capes Villaret and +Latouche-Treville is a bay formed by very low sandy land, +slightly clothed with a stunted vegetation. The wind was now +unfavourable for our approaching the land, and after standing off +to sea and then towards the shore we anchored in thirteen fathoms +coarse sand.</p> +<p>At this anchorage we found a still greater difference in the +tides than was experienced the night preceding; the flood set +South-East by East and East-South-East; and the ebb from +North-North-East round to West-North-West; the rise was sixteen +feet and a half, from which it would appear probable that there +must be some reason for so great an indraught of water into the +bight between Cape Villaret and Point Gantheaume, which I have +named Roebuck Bay, after the ship that Captain Dampier commanded +when he visited this part of the coast.</p> +<p>As the wind now blew constantly from the South-West, or from +some southern direction, and caused our progress to be very slow +and tedious; and as the shore for some distance to the southward +of Cape Latouche-Treville had been partly seen by the French, I +resolved upon leaving the coast. Our water was also nearly +expended, and our provisions, generally, were in a very bad +state; besides which the want of a second anchor was so much felt +that we dared not venture into any difficulty where the +appearance of the place invited a particular investigation, on +account of the exposed nature of the coast, and the strength of +the tides, which were now near the springs: upon every +consideration, therefore, it was not deemed prudent to rely any +longer upon the good fortune that had hitherto so often attended +us in our difficulties.</p> +<p>August 27.</p> +<p>Accordingly after weighing, we steered off by the wind, and +directed our course for Mauritius.</p> +<p>1821. September 22.</p> +<p>On the 22nd September at daylight after a passage of +twenty-five days we saw Roderigues, five or six leagues to the +northward. In the evening a fresh gale sprung up from the +southward and we experienced very bad weather: at noon of the +24th by our calculation we were seventy-three miles due East from +the north end of Mauritius and, having the day before experienced +a westerly current of one mile per hour, we brought to at sunset +for the night, from the fear of getting too near the shore.</p> +<p>September 25.</p> +<p>At daylight the following morning, being by the reckoning only +thirty-four miles to the eastward of the north end of the island, +we bore up for it; but the land, being enveloped in clouds, was +not seen until noon; we then found ourselves off the south-east +end, instead of the north point; having been set to the southward +since yesterday noon at the rate of three quarters of a mile an +hour: in consequence of which we determined upon going round the +south side, and bore up for that purpose; upon approaching the +land we found another current setting us to the north.</p> +<p>September 26.</p> +<p>The next morning at nine o'clock we passed round the Morne +Brabant, the south-west point of the island, but it was four +o'clock before we reached our anchorage (at a cable's length +within the flag beacon at the entrance of Port Louis) in fifteen +fathoms mud; we were then visited by the Health Officer, and +afterwards by a boat from H.M. Ship Menai, which was at anchor in +the port.</p> +<p>September 27.</p> +<p>But as it was too late that evening to enter the brig was not +moved until the following morning, when she was warped in and +moored head and stern within the harbour.</p> +<p>My wants were immediately made known to Captain Moresby, C.B. +(of H.M. Ship Menai) who directed the necessary repairs to be +performed by the carpenters of his ship; those articles which +could not be supplied from the Menai's stores were advertised for +in the Mauritius Gazette, when the most reasonable tenders were +accepted.</p> +<p>As many of the carpenters and caulkers of the Menai as could +be spared from their other occupations were daily employed upon +our repairs; but from her being put into quarantine and other +unforeseen delays they were not completed for nearly a month: our +sails were repaired by the Menai's sailmakers; and, as all our +running rigging was condemned and we had very little spare rope +on board, her rope-makers made sufficient for our wants. The +greater part of our bread, being found in a damaged state from +leaks, was surveyed and condemned.</p> +<p>Captain Flinders' account of Mauritius appears to have been +drawn up with much correctness and judgment, and is, even at the +present day, so descriptive of the island as to be considered, +both by the English and French residents of Port Louis, as the +best that has yet been given to the world. Many alterations and +considerable improvements have however taken place since his +departure, and among the latter the improved system of the +culture of the sugar cane, and the introduction of modern +machinery into their mills, may be particularly mentioned. These +have been effected entirely by the political changes that have, +since Captain Flinders' captivity, taken place in the government +of the island; and by the example and exertions of the English, +who possess very large plantations, and indeed may be considered +now as the principal proprietors of the land.</p> +<blockquote> +<p>(*Footnote. It afforded me very great pleasure to hear the +high terms in which my late friend and predecessor Captain +Flinders was spoken of by the inhabitants of this island, and +their general regret at his infamous detention. His friend M. +Pitot had lately died, but I met many French gentlemen who were +acquainted with him. General Decaen, the governor, was so much +disliked by the inhabitants that Captain Flinders gained many +friends at his expense who would not otherwise have troubled +themselves about him; and this circumstance probably went far +towards increasing the severity of the treatment he so unjustly +received. An anecdote of him was related to me by a resident of +Port Louis, which, as it redounds to his honour, I cannot lose +the gratification of recording.</p> +<p>When Captain Flinders was at the house of Madame d'Arifat in +the district of Plains Wilhelms, in which he was latterly +permitted to reside upon his parole, an opportunity of escaping +from the island was offered to him by the commander of a ship +bound to India: it was urged to him by his friends that, from the +tyrannical treatment he had received and the unjustifiable +detention he was enduring, no parole to such a man as General +Decaen ought to be thought binding or prevent him from regaining +his liberty and embracing any opportunity of returning to his +friends and country. The escape was well planned, and no chance +of discovery likely to happen: the ship sailed from Port Louis, +and at night, bringing to on the leeward side of the island +abreast of Captain Flinders' residence, sent a boat to the +appointed spot which was six miles only from Madame d'Arifat's +house; but after waiting until near daylight without the captain +making his appearance the boat returned to the vessel, which was +obliged to pursue her voyage to prevent suspicion.</p> +<p>It is almost needless to add that Captain Flinders did not +think it consistent with his feelings to take advantage of the +opportunity, nor to effect his escape from imprisonment by a +conduct so disgraceful to the character of a British officer and +to the honourable profession to which he belonged.)</p> +</blockquote> +<p>For some years past coffee has entirely failed upon the island +and cotton is seldom seen growing. The principal attention of the +habitans appeared to be given to the cultivation of the sugar +cane and maize, both of which had begun to produce an abundant +return to the planters; the manihot is also generally cultivated: +but the dreadful effects of the hurricanes to which this island +is exposed render property of so precarious and doubtful a tenure +that nothing is secure until the season for these destructive +visitations is over; they last from the beginning of December to +the end of April and generally occur about the full of the moon, +being invariably preceded by an unsteady motion of the mercury in +the barometer. They are not always so violent as to be termed +hurricanes: the last experienced before our visit was merely a +coup de vent, by which very little damage was sustained.*</p> +<blockquote>(*Footnote. In the month of January, 1824 this +unfortunate island was again visited and laid waste by a +tremendous hurricane that did very considerable damage, and has +in a great measure destroyed the prosperous state which the +island was beginning to arrive at from the previous long absence +of this dreadful visitation.)</blockquote> +<p>The town of Port Louis which is at the north-west, or leeward, +side of the island, is built at the extremity of an amphitheatre +of low land, backed in by a high and precipitous range, upon +which Peter Botte and the Pouce are conspicuous features. The +streets are laid out at rightangles, the principal of which lead +from the Chaussee to the Champ de Mars, a plot of grassy land +about half a mile square that intervenes between the town and the +hills. This is the promenade, the drive, the racecourse, and, in +fact, the principal resort for the inhabitants. It is skirted by +houses and gardens and is a valuable acquisition to the town. The +Chaussee and other streets are well furnished with useful shops +of which those of the Tinman, the Druggist, and the Conservateur +et Patissier, are the most numerous.</p> +<p>The houses, generally of wood, are irregularly built, and far +from being elegant in their appearance; those however that have +been lately constructed by our countrymen have already given the +place an appearance of solidity that it could not boast of +before, and several substantial stone dwellings and stones have +lately been erected. The roads for seven or eight miles out of +the town, leading to Pamplemousses, to Plains Wilhelms and to +Moca districts, are very good and are kept in repair partly by +Malabar convicts from India; but travelling beyond that distance +is performed in palanquins which four bearers will carry, at a +steady pace, at the rate of six miles per hour.</p> +<p>At the time of our visit there were few fruits ripe; but when +we were about to sail the mango of delicious flavour began to be +common; besides which there were coconuts, guavas, papaws, +grapes, the letchy (or let-chis, a Chinese fruit) and some +indifferent pineapples. The ship's company were supplied daily +with fresh beef and vegetables. The latter were procured in +abundance at the bazaar and were exceedingly fine, particularly +carrots and cabbages of an unusually large size and fine flavour. +Bullocks are imported into the island from Madagascar, in which +trade there are two vessels constantly engaged during the fine +season.</p> +<p>Horses are very scarce; they are imported from the Cape of +Good Hope and fetch a high price: a cargo of a hundred and +seventy-seven mules arrived from Buenos Ayres while we were at +Port Louis, which, on being sold by auction, averaged each one +hundred and eighty dollars. To encourage the importation of these +useful animals a premium of five dollars is offered by the +government for every mule that is brought alive to the +island.</p> +<p>The circulating medium was principally of paper but bore a +very great depreciation; the premium upon bills of exchange upon +Europe, at the time of our departure, was as much as 66 to 76 per +cent, and upon silver coin there was a depreciation of 45 per +cent.</p> +<p>On the voyage to this place three charts of the north-west +coast were reduced and copied by Mr. Roe and were forwarded to +the Admiralty by H.M. Sloop Cygnet, together with a brief account +of our voyage from the time that we parted company with the Dick, +off Cape Van Diemen.</p> +<p>No observations were taken at this place excepting for +ascertaining the rates of the chronometers, and for the variation +and dip of the magnetic needle: the former being 12 degrees 31 +minutes West, and the latter 51 degrees 42 minutes 1 second. The +situation of the observatory has been long since fixed by the +Abbe de la Caille in 20 degrees 10 minutes South latitude, and 57 +degrees 29 minutes East longitude.</p> +<p>I cannot conclude this very brief account of our visit to +Mauritius without expressing my acknowledgments for the +civilities and hospitality we received from our countrymen at +Port Louis, particularly from His Excellency Sir Robert T. +Farquhar, Bart., who so long and ably presided as Governor of the +Island; and for the valuable assistance rendered me in our +re-equipment by Captain Fairfax Moresby, C.B., of H.M. Ship +Menai, for which the expedition I had the honour to command is +under more than a common professional obligation.</p> +<p><a name="chapter03"></a></p> +<h3>CHAPTER 3.</h3> +<blockquote>Departure from Port Louis.<br> +Voyage to the South-west Coast of New Holland.<br> +Anchor in King George the Third's Sound.<br> +Occurrences there.<br> +Visited by the Natives.<br> +Our intercourse with them.<br> +Descriptions of their weapons and other implements.<br> +Vocabulary of their language.<br> +Meteorological and other observations.<br> +Edible plants.<br> +Testaceous productions.</blockquote> +<p>1821. November 10.</p> +<p>On the 10th November we were ready for sea.</p> +<p>November 15.</p> +<p>But, from various delays, did not quit the port until the +15th. At midnight we passed round the Morne Brabant, and the next +evening at sunset saw the high land of Bourbon: for the first two +days we had south-east winds and upon reaching the parallel of 25 +degrees, the winds became light and baffling with calms.</p> +<p>November 21.</p> +<p>But as we advanced more to the southward they gradually veered +to east and north-east, and afterwards to north-west, with very +fine weather.</p> +<p>November 28.</p> +<p>We did not get out of the influence of these variable winds +until the 28th when we were at noon in latitude 32 degrees 47 +minutes and longitude 65 degrees 5 minutes; after which we +encountered westerly winds and rough weather. On the whole we had +a very quick passage to the coast of New Holland; and for the +last week were expedited by a strong westerly gale without +encountering any accident or the occurrence of any circumstance +worth recording.</p> +<p>1821. December 23.</p> +<p>On the 23rd December at daylight the land about Cape Chatham +was in sight, and a course was directed to the eastward for King +George's Sound; where it was my intention to complete our wood +and water previous to commencing the examination of the west +coast. At four o'clock in the afternoon we hauled round Bald Head +and, entering the Sound, soon afterwards anchored at one mile +from the entrance of Princess Royal Harbour.</p> +<p>December 24.</p> +<p>Having at our former visit re-fitted at Oyster Harbour, I +wished on this occasion to try Princess Royal Harbour; but as I +was both unacquainted with its entrance, as well as its +convenience for our purposes, excepting from Captain Flinders' +account, I hoisted the boat out early the next morning, to make +the necessary examination before the sea-breeze commenced. Whilst +the boat was preparing a distant shouting was heard, and upon our +looking attentively towards the entrance several Indians were +seen sitting on the rocks on the north head hallooing and waving +to us, but no further notice than a return of their call was +taken until after breakfast, when we pulled towards them in the +whale-boat. As we drew near the shore they came down to receive +us and appeared from their gestures to invite our landing; but in +this they were disappointed, for, after a little vociferation and +gesture on both sides, we pulled into the harbour, whilst they +walked along the beach abreast the boat. As the motions of every +one of them were attentively watched it was evident that they +were not armed; each wore a kangaroo-skin cloak over his left +shoulder that covered the back and breast but left the right arm +exposed. Upon reaching the spot which Captain Flinders occupied +in the Investigator I found that the brig could not anchor near +enough to the shore to carry on our different operations without +being impeded by the natives, even though they should be amicably +disposed. Our plan was therefore altered and, as the anchorage +formerly occupied by the Mermaid in the entrance of Oyster +Harbour would be on all accounts more convenient for our +purposes, I determined upon going thither.</p> +<p>By this time the natives had reached that part of the beach +where the boat was lying, and were wading through the water +towards us; but as we had no wish at present to communicate with +them, for fear that, by refusing anything we had in the boat, for +which their importunity would perhaps be very great, a quarrel +might be occasioned, we pulled off into deeper water where we +remained for five minutes parleying with them, during which they +plainly expressed their disappointment and mortification at our +want of confidence. Upon making signs for fresh water, which they +instantly understood, they called out to us "badoo, badoo," and +pointed to a part of the bay where Captain Flinders has marked a +rivulet. Badoo, in the Port Jackson language, means water; it was +thought probable that they must have obtained it from some late +visitors; and in this opinion we were confirmed, for the word +kangaroo was also familiar to them.*</p> +<blockquote>(*Footnote. The San Antonio, merchant brig, the +vessel that joined our company during our passage up the east +coast, visited this port in December 1820 and communicated with +the natives; it is therefore probable that the above words were +obtained from that vessel's crew.)</blockquote> +<p>Upon our return towards the entrance the natives walked upon +the beach abreast the boat, and kept with her until we pulled out +of the entrance, when they resumed their former station upon the +rocks and we returned on board.</p> +<p>Upon reaching the brig, the anchor was weighed, and with a +fresh sea-breeze from South-East we soon reached Oyster Harbour, +but in crossing the bar the vessel took the ground in eleven and +a half feet water, and it was some time before we succeeded in +heaving her over, and reaching the anchorage we had occupied at +our last visit. Whilst warping in, the natives, who had followed +the vessel along the sandy beach that separates the two harbours, +were amusing themselves near us in striking fish with a single +barbed spear, in which sport they appeared to be tolerably +successful. As soon as we passed the bar three other natives made +their appearance on the east side, who, upon the boat going to +that shore to lay out the kedges, took their seats in it as +unceremoniously as a passenger would in a ferry-boat; and upon +its returning to the brig, came on board, and remained with us +all the afternoon, much amused with everything they saw, and +totally free from timidity or distrust. Each of our visitors was +covered with a mantle of kangaroo-skin, but these were laid aside +upon their being clothed with other garments, with the novelty of +which they appeared greatly diverted. The natives on the opposite +shore seeing that their companions were admitted, were loudly +vociferous in their request to be sent for also; but +unfortunately for them it was the lee shore, so that no boat went +near them; and as we did not wish to be impeded by having so many +on the deck at one time, their request was not acceded to and by +degrees they separated and retired in different directions.</p> +<p>As soon as the brig was secured two of our visitors went +ashore, evidently charged with some message from the other +native, but as he voluntarily remained on board nothing hostile +was suspected; we therefore landed and dug a hole three feet deep +among the grass about two yards above the highest tide-mark, for +water; but it was found to be so highly coloured and muddy as it +flowed in, that other holes were dug in the sand nearer the edge +of the tide-mark, where it was also produced, and proved to be of +a much better taste, as well as clearer, from being filtered +through the sand.</p> +<p>On examining the place of our former encampment, it was so +much altered from the rapid growth of vegetation that we could +scarcely recognise its situation. The stem of the casuarina on +which the Mermaid's name and the date of our visit had been +carved was almost destroyed by fire; and the inscription in +consequence so nearly obliterated that the figures 1818, and two +or three letters alone remained visible. There was not the least +trace of our garden, for the space which it formerly occupied was +covered by three or four feet of additional soil, formed of sand +and decayed vegetable matter and clothed with a thicket of fine +plants in full flower, that would be much prized in any other +place than where they were. The initials of the names of some of +our people were still very perfect upon the stem of a large +Banksia grandis which, from being covered with its superb +flowers, bore a magnificent and striking appearance.</p> +<p>After an absence of an hour our two friends returned, when it +appeared that they had been at their toilet, for their noses and +faces had evidently been fresh smeared over with red ochre, which +they pointed out to us as a great ornament; affording another +proof that vanity is inherent in human nature and not merely the +consequence of civilisation. They had however put off the +garments with which we had clothed them and resumed their +mantles.</p> +<p>Each brought a lighted fire-stick in his hand, intending, as +we supposed, to make a fire, and to pass the night near the +vessel, in order to watch our intentions and movements.</p> +<p>On returning on board we desired the native who had remained +behind to go ashore to his companions, but it was with great +reluctance that he was persuaded to leave us. Whilst on board, +our people had fed him plentifully with biscuit, yams, pudding, +tea, and grog, of which he ate and drank as if he was half +famished, and after being crammed with this strange mixture and +very patiently submitting his beard to the operation of shaving, +he was clothed with a shirt and a pair of trousers, and +christened Jack, by which name he was afterwards always called, +and to which he readily answered. As soon as he reached the +shore, his companions came to meet him to hear an account of what +had transpired during their absence, as well as to examine his +new habiliments which, as may be conceived, had effected a very +considerable alteration in his appearance, and at the same time +that the change created much admiration on the part of his +companions, it raised him very considerably in his own +estimation. It was however a substitution that did not improve +his appearance; in fact he cut but a sorry figure in our eyes, in +his chequered shirt and tarry trousers, when standing amongst his +companions, with their long beards and kangaroo-skin mantles +thrown carelessly over their shoulders.</p> +<p>Upon being accosted by his companions Jack was either sullen +with them or angry with us for sending him on shore, for without +deigning to reply to their questions he separated himself from +them, and after watching us in silence for some time, walked +quietly and slowly away, followed at a distance by his friends +who were lost in wonder at what could have happened to their +sulky companion. The grog that he had been drinking had probably +taken effect upon his head and, although the quantity was very +trifling, he might have been a little stupefied.</p> +<p>December 25.</p> +<p>At daylight the following morning the natives had again +collected on both sides, and upon the jolly-boat's landing the +people to examine the wells Jack, having quite recovered his good +humour, got into the boat and came on board. The natives on the +opposite side were vociferous to visit us, and were holding long +conversations with Jack, who explained everything to them in a +song, to which they would frequently exclaim in full chorus the +words "Cai, cai, cai, cai, caigh" which they always repeated when +anything was shown that excited their surprise. Finding we had no +intention of sending a boat for them they amused themselves in +fishing. Two of them were watching a small seal that, having been +left by the tide on the bank, was endeavouring to waddle towards +the deep water; at last one of the natives, fixing his spear in +its throwing-stick, advanced very cautiously and, when within ten +or twelve yards, lanced it, and pierced the animal through the +neck, when the other instantly ran up and stuck his spear into it +also, and then beating it about the head with a small hammer very +soon despatched it.</p> +<p>This event collected the whole tribe to the spot, who assisted +in landing their prize and washing the sand off the body; they +then carried the animal to their fire at the edge of the grass +and began to devour it even before it was dead. Curiosity induced +Mr. Cunningham and myself to view this barbarous feast and we +landed about ten minutes after it had commenced. The moment the +boat touched the sand the natives, springing up and throwing +their spears away into the bushes, ran down towards us; and +before we could land had all seated themselves in the boat ready +to go on board, but they were obliged to wait whilst we landed to +witness their savage feast. On going to the place we found an old +man seated over the remains of the carcass, two-thirds of which +had already disappeared; he was holding a long strip of the raw +flesh in his left hand, and tearing it off the body with a sort +of knife; a boy was also feasting with him and both were too +intent upon their breakfast to notice us or to be the least +disconcerted at our looking on. We however were very soon +satisfied and walked away perfectly disgusted with the sight of +so horrible a repast, and the intolerable stench occasioned by +the effluvia that arose from the dying animal, combined with that +of the bodies of the natives who had daubed themselves from head +to foot with a pigment made of a red ochreous earth mixed up with +seal-oil.</p> +<p>We then conveyed the natives, who had been waiting with great +patience in the boat for our return, to the vessel, and permitted +them to go on board. Whilst they remained with us Mr. Baskerville +took a man from each mess to the oyster-bank; here he was joined +by an Indian carrying some spears and a throwing-stick, but on +Mr. Baskerville's calling for a musket that was in the boat (to +the use of which they were not strangers) he laid aside his +spears, which probably were only carried for the purpose of +striking fish, and assisted our people in collecting the oysters. +As soon as they had procured a sufficient quantity they returned +on board when, as it was breakfast time, our visitors were sent +onshore, highly pleased with their reception and with the biscuit +and pudding which the people had given them to eat. They were +very attentive to the mixture of a pudding, and a few small +dumplings were made and given to them, which they put on the bars +of the fireplace but, being too impatient to wait until they were +baked, ate them in a doughy state with much relish.</p> +<p>Three new faces appeared on the east side, who were brought on +board after breakfast, and permitted to remain until dinner-time: +one of them, an old man, was very attentive to the sailmaker's +cutting out a boat's sail, and at his request was presented with +all the strips that were of no use. When it was completed a small +piece of canvas was missing, upon which the old man, being +suspected of having secreted it, was slightly examined, but +nothing was found upon him; after this, while the people were +looking about the deck, the old rogue assisted in the search and +appeared quite anxious to find it; he however very soon walked +away towards another part of the deck and interested himself in +other things. This conduct appeared so suspicious that I sent the +sailmaker to examine the old man more closely, when the lost +piece was found concealed under his left arm, which was covered +by the cloak he wore of kangaroo-skin. This circumstance afforded +me a good opportunity of showing them our displeasure at so +flagrant a breach of the confidence we had reposed in them; I +therefore went up to him and, assuming as ferocious a look as I +could, shook him violently by the shoulders. At first he laughed +but afterwards, when he found I was in earnest, became much +alarmed: upon which his two companions, who were both boys, +wanted to go onshore; this however was not permitted until I had +made peace with the old man, and put them all in good humour by +feeding them heartily upon biscuit. The two boys were soon +satisfied; but the old man appeared ashamed and conscious of his +guilt; and although he was frequently afterwards with us, yet he +always hung down his head and sneaked into the background.</p> +<p>During the day the people were employed about the rigging, and +in the evening before sunset the natives were again admitted on +board for half an hour. In the afternoon Mr. Montgomery went to +Green Island and shot a few parrakeets and waterbirds, some of +which he gave to the natives after explaining how they had been +killed, which of course produced great applause. December 26.</p> +<p>The next day was employed in wooding and watering, in which +the natives, particularly our friend Jack, assisted. We had this +day twenty-one natives about us and among them were five +strangers. They were not permitted to come on board until four +o'clock in the afternoon, excepting Jack, who was privileged to +come and go as he liked, which, since it did not appear to create +any jealousy among his companions, enabled us to detain him as a +hostage for Mr. Cunningham's safety, who was busily engaged in +adding to his collections from the country in the vicinity of the +vessel.</p> +<p>In the evening Jack climbed the rigging as high as the top +masthead, much to the amusement of his companions but to the +mortification of Bundell who had never taken courage to mount so +high.</p> +<p>The waterholes yielded about a ton of water a day; but a +stream was found in the sandy bay to the eastward of the +entrance, running over the beach, which we used when the holes +were emptied of their contents; the latter were however +preferred, since our people worked at them under an immediate +protection from the vessel's deck. Near the stream we found some +felled trees and the staves of a cask.*</p> +<blockquote>(*Footnote. At this place the San Antonio merchant +brig wooded and watered in 1820.)</blockquote> +<p>December 27 to 28.</p> +<p>Our watering continued to proceed without molestation from the +natives; the number of whom had increased to twenty-nine, besides +some whom we had before seen that were now absent. During the +afternoon of the 28th the wind freshened from south-west and blew +so strong as to cause a considerable swell where we were lying; +but towards sunset the breeze moderated and the natives were +again admitted on board; there were, however, only eleven, for +the rest, having worn out their patience, had walked away.</p> +<p>They were now quite tractable and never persisted in doing +anything against our wishes. The words "by and by" were so often +used by us in answer to their cau-wah, or "come here," that their +meaning was perfectly understood and always satisfied the +natives, since we made it a strict rule never to disappoint them +of anything that was promised, an attention to which is of the +utmost importance in communicating with savages. Every evening +that they visited us they received something, but as a biscuit +was the most valuable present that could be made, each native was +always presented with one upon his leaving the vessel; during the +day they were busily occupied in manufacturing spears, knives, +and hammers, for the evening's barter; and when they came in the +morning they generally brought a large collection, which their +wives had probably made in their absence.</p> +<p>December 29.</p> +<p>On the 29th we had completed our holds with wood and water and +prepared to leave the harbour. In the morning there was thirteen +feet water at the buoy which had been moored on the deepest part +of the bar, the depth of which, during the two preceding days, +had been frequently sounded.</p> +<p>In the evening we were visited by twenty-four natives among +whom was our friend Jack. When they found us preparing to go away +they expressed great sorrow at our departure, particularly Jack, +who was more than usually entertaining but kept, as he always +did, at a distance from his companions and treated them with the +greatest disdain. When the time came to send them on shore he +endeavoured to avoid accompanying them and as usual was the last +to go into the boat; instead however of following them, he went +into a boat on the opposite side of the brig that was preparing +to go for a load of water, evidently expecting to be allowed to +return in her.</p> +<p>This friendly Indian had become a great favourite with us all +and was allowed to visit us whenever he chose and to do as he +pleased; he always wore the shirt that had been given to him on +the first day and endeavoured to imitate everything that our +people were employed upon; particularly the carpenter and the +sailmaker at their work: he was the only native who did not +manufacture spears for barter, for he was evidently convinced of +the superiority of our weapons and laughed heartily whenever a +bad and carelessly-made spear was offered to us for sale: for the +natives, finding we took everything, were not very particular in +the form or manufacturer of the articles they brought to us. He +was certainly the most intelligent native of the whole tribe and +if we had remained longer would have afforded us much information +of this part of the country; for we were becoming more and more +intelligible to each other every day: he frequently accompanied +Mr. Cunningham in his walks and not only assisted him in carrying +his plants but occasionally added to the specimens he was +collecting.</p> +<p>December 30.</p> +<p>The next morning (30th) the anchors were weighed and the warps +laid out, but from various delays we did not reach a birth +sufficiently near the bar to make sail from, until the water had +fallen too much to allow our passing it: the brig was therefore +moored in the stream of the tide.</p> +<p>At eight o'clock the natives came down as usual and were much +disappointed in finding the brig moved from her former place. +After the vessel was secured the launch and jolly-boat were sent +to the watering-place in the outer bay, where the eastern party +were assembled with a bundle of spears, throwing-sticks, and +knives, for barter. Upon the return of the boats our friend Jack +came on board and appeared altogether so attached to us that some +thoughts were entertained of taking him on our voyage up the west +coast if he was inclined to go. As he did not want for +intelligence there was not much difficulty in making him +understand by signs that he might go with us, to which he +appeared to assent without the least hesitation, but that it +might be satisfactorily ascertained whether he really wished to +go it was intimated to him that he should tell his companions of +this new arrangement. Mr. Bedwell accordingly took him on shore, +and purchased all the spears the natives had brought down, that, +in case they should feel angry at his leaving them, they might +have no weapons to do any mischief with.</p> +<p>When Jack landed he instantly informed his companions of his +intended departure and pointed to the sea, to show whither he was +going, but his friends received the intelligence with the most +careless indifference, their attention being entirely engrossed +with the barter that was going on. After the spears were +purchased Mr. Bedwell got into the boat followed by Jack, who +seated himself in his place with apparent satisfaction.</p> +<p>While Mr. Bedwell was purchasing the spears and other weapons +Jack brought him a throwing-stick that he had previously +concealed behind a bush and sold it to him for a biscuit; but +after he had embarked and the boat was leaving the shore he threw +it among his companions, thereby affording us a most satisfactory +proof of the sincerity of his intentions.</p> +<p>About an hour after he had returned and I had determined upon +taking him, the breeze freshened and raised a short swell which, +causing a slight motion, affected our friend's head so much that +he came to me and, touching his tongue and pointing to the shore, +intimated his wish to speak to the natives. He was therefore +immediately landed and Mr. Baskerville, after purchasing some +spears and waiting a few minutes, prepared to return on board: +upon getting into the boat he looked at our volunteer but Jack, +having had a taste of sea-sickness, shook his head and hung back; +he was therefore left on shore. Upon the boat's leaving the beach +the natives dispersed for the night but Jack, as usual, was +perceived to separate himself from his companions and to walk +away without exchanging a word with them.</p> +<p>December 31.</p> +<p>The weather at daylight the next morning (31st) was too +unsettled and the breeze too strong from the westward to think of +moving from the anchorage. Jack and another native were down on +the rocks at an early hour, hallooing and waving to us, and at +eight o'clock some natives appeared on the opposite shore with +spears and knives to barter, but we had no communication with +them.</p> +<p>During our visit we have obtained from these people about one +hundred spears, thirty throwing-sticks, forty hammers, one +hundred and fifty knives, and a few hand-clubs, the value of each +being at from half to one-eighth of a biscuit. We saw no fizgig, +shield, nor boomerang; it is probable that they may have such +weapons but did not produce them from a dislike at parting with +them; but the knives, spears, and hammers which did not require +much labour to manufacture were always ready for barter, +particularly the first, but the greater part were, like Peter +Pindar's razors, only made for sale.</p> +<p>Altogether we saw about forty natives of whom ten were boys: +they were in most respects similar to their neighbours, having +the same long curly hair and slight figure; they did not appear +to be a navigating tribe, for we saw no canoes, nor did we +observe any trees in the woods with the bark stripped, of which +material they are usually made; and, from the timid manner they +approached the water, it is more than probable that they are not +much accustomed even to swimming. Captain Flinders is mistaken in +stating that the natives of this place do not use the +throwing-stick; but it is probable they did not produce those +instruments to him, for fear of being deprived of them, for it +required much persuasion on our part to prevail upon them to let +us have any; they were much more ingeniously formed than others +that we had previously seen, and different also, in having a +small sharp-edged shell, or piece of quartz, fixed in a gummy +knob at the handle, for the purpose of scraping the points of the +spears: the shaft is broad, smooth and flat. Some of these +throwing-sticks, or mearas, were three inches broad and two feet +six inches long. See Woodcut 3.</p> +<center> +<p><a name="king2-05"></a><img alt="" src="images/king2-05.jpg"></p> +<p><b>WOODCUT 3: WEAPONS AND IMPLEMENTS OF THE NATIVES OF KING +GEORGE THE THIRD'S SOUND: MEARA OR THROWING-STICK.</b></p> +</center> +<p> </p> +<p>The spears are very slender, and are made from a species of +leptospermum that grows abundantly in swampy places; they are +from nine to ten feet long and barbed with a piece of hard wood, +fastened on by a ligature of bark gummed over; we saw none that +were not barbed, or had not a hole at the end to receive the +hooked point of the meara. Woodcut 4 shows the method by which +this weapon is propelled.</p> +<center> +<p><a name="king2-06"></a><img alt="" src="images/king2-06.jpg"></p> +<p><b>WOODCUT 4: WEAPONS AND IMPLEMENTS OF THE NATIVES OF KING +GEORGE THE THIRD'S SOUND: METHOD OF PROPULSION OF SPEAR BY A +MEARA OR THROWING-STICK.</b></p> +</center> +<p> </p> +<p>The hammer, or kaoit, appears to be used only for the purpose +of breaking open shellfish, and killing seals and other animals +by striking them on the head; for it has no sharpened edge to be +used as a chopping or cutting instrument; the handle is from +twelve to fifteen inches long, having one end scraped to a sharp +point, and on each side at the other end two pieces of hard stone +fixed and cemented by a mass of gum, which, when dry, is almost +as hard as the stone itself; the hammer is about one pound +weight. See Woodcut 5.</p> +<center> +<p><a name="king2-07"></a><img alt="" src="images/king2-07.jpg"></p> +<p><b>WOODCUT 5: WEAPONS AND IMPLEMENTS OF THE NATIVES OF KING +GEORGE THE THIRD'S SOUND: KAOIT OR HAMMER.</b></p> +</center> +<p> </p> +<p>The knife, or taap, is perhaps the rudest instrument of the +sort that ever was made; the handle is about twelve inches long, +scraped to a point like the hammer, and has, at the other end, +three or four splinters of sharp-edged quartz stuck on in a row +with gum, thus forming a sort of ragged instrument. See Woodcut +6. It is thus used: after they have put within their teeth a +sufficient mouthful of seal's flesh, the remainder is held in +their left hand, and, with the taap in the other, they saw +through, and separate the flesh.* Every native carries one or +more of these knives in his belt besides the hammer which is also +an indispensable instrument with them.</p> +<center> +<p><a name="king2-08"></a><img alt="" src="images/king2-08.jpg"></p> +<p><b>WOODCUT 6: WEAPONS AND IMPLEMENTS OF THE NATIVES OF KING +GEORGE THE THIRD'S SOUND: TAAP OR KNIFE.<br> +CHART OF PORT COCKBURN AT MELVILLE ISLAND.<br> +Plan of Port Cockburn, between Bathurst and Melville Islands.<br> +From a survey made by Lieutenant J.S. ROE in October +1824.</b></p> +</center> +<p> </p> +<blockquote>(*Footnote. A very good idea may be obtained of the +manner in which these taaps are used, by referring to Captain +Lyon's drawing of the Esquimaux sledges at page 290 of Parry's +Second Voyage: the natives of King George's Sound however hold +the knife underhanded, and cut upwards.)</blockquote> +<p>We did not perceive that these people acknowledged any chief +or superior among them; the two parties that collected daily on +the opposite sides of the harbour evidently belonged to the same +tribe for they occasionally mixed with each other. Their +habitations were probably scattered about in different parts for +when the natives went away for the night they separated into +several groups, not more than three or four going together, and +these generally returned in company the next morning by the same +path which they had taken when they left us: they also arrived at +different times and some evidently came from a distance greater +than others, for they were later in arriving and always took +their leave at an earlier hour.</p> +<p>With the exception of one or two petty thefts besides the one +above-mentioned of which serious notice was taken, and an attempt +to steal a hat from one of the boys when he was by himself on the +Oyster Bank, our communication with these people was carried on +in the most friendly manner. Mr. Cunningham was, to their +knowledge, on shore every day attended only by his servant, but +none, excepting Jack, followed him after they had ascertained the +intention of his walk, and observed the care that he took to +avoid going near their habitations, for which they evinced a +great dislike; one of their encampments was about a mile and a +half off but, curious as we naturally were to witness their mode +of living and to see the females and children of their tribe, we +never succeeded in persuading them to allow us to gratify our +curiosity. On one occasion it was necessary to lay a kedge anchor +out in the direction of their dwelling-place, and upon the boat's +crew landing and carrying it along the beach, the natives +followed and intimated by signs that we should not go that way; +as soon however as the anchor was fixed and they understood our +intention, they assisted the people in carrying the hawser to +make fast to it.</p> +<p>They were well-acquainted with the effects of a musket, +although not the least alarmed at having one fired off near them. +Everything they saw excited their admiration, particularly the +carpenter's tools and our clothes; but what appeared to surprise +them above all other things was the effect produced upon the +flesh by a burning-glass, and of its causing the explosion of a +train of gunpowder. They perfectly understood that it was from +the sun that the fire was produced, for on one occasion when Jack +requested me to show it to two or three strangers whom he had +brought to visit us I explained to him that it could not be done +while the sun was clouded; he then waited patiently for five +minutes until the sunshine reappeared, when he instantly reminded +me of the removal of the obstacle. He was a good deal surprised +at my collecting the rays of the sun upon my own hand, supposing +that I was callous to the pain, from which he had himself before +shrunk; but as I held the glass within the focus distance, no +painful sensation was produced; after which he presented me his +own arm, and allowed me to burn it as long as I chose to hold the +glass, without flinching in the least, which, with greater +reason, equally astonished us in our turn.</p> +<p>They were all furnished, as has been before mentioned, with a +cloak of kangaroo-skin, which is always taken off and spread +under them when they lie down. Their hair was dressed in +different ways; sometimes it was clotted with red pigment and +seal oil, clubbed up behind, and bound round with a fillet of +opossum-fur, spun into a long string, in which parrot-feathers, +escalop shells, and other ornaments being fixed in different +fanciful ways, gave the wearer a warlike appearance.</p> +<p>Their faces and sometimes their whole bodies were daubed over +with a mixture of seal oil and red pigment that caused a most +disgusting effluvia; but the only colouring matter that our +friend Jack used, after his acquaintance with us, was the +carpenter's chalk, which he thought particularly ornamental.</p> +<p>Bracelets of dog-tails or kangaroo-skin were commonly worn and +one had several escalop shells hanging about him, the noise of +which, as they jingled together, he probably thought musical.</p> +<p>The noodle-bul or belt in which they carry their hammer and +knife is manufactured from the fur of the opossum spun into a +small yarn like worsted; it is tightly bound at least three or +four hundred times round the stomach; very few however possessed +this ornament; and it is not improbable that the natives who had +their hair clubbed, those that wore belts, and the one who was +ornamented with shells, held some particular offices in the +tribe, which it would be difficult for strangers to discover.</p> +<p>During our communication with these people the following +vocabulary of their language was obtained, of which some of the +words are compared with those recorded by Captain Flinders: these +last are inserted in the third column.</p> + +<p><a name="king2-table1a"></a><img alt="" src="images/king2-table1a.jpg"></p> +<p><a name="king2-table1b"></a><img alt="" src="images/king2-table1b.jpg"></p> +<p><a name="king2-table1c"></a><img alt="" src="images/king2-table1c.jpg"></p> +<p><a name="king2-table1d"></a><img alt="" src="images/king2-table1d.jpg"></p> + +<blockquote>(*Footnote. The above names were obtained at a +subsequent visit on our return to England the following +year.)</blockquote> +<p>The winds during our stay performed two or three revolutions +of the compass but they partook chiefly of the character of sea +and land-breezes: during the night and early part of the morning +the wind was usually light from the northward and at ten o'clock, +gradually dying away, was succeeded by a wind from the sea, +generally from South-West or South-East; this sea-breeze +occasionally blew fresh until four o'clock in the evening when it +would gradually diminish with the setting sun to a light air.</p> +<p>The barometrical column ranged between 29.75 and 30.22 inches; +a fall of the mercury preceded a westerly wind, and a rise +predicted it from the South-East: when it stood at thirty inches +we had sea-breezes from south with fine weather. The easterly +winds were dry; westerly ones the reverse. The moisture of the +atmosphere, for want of a better hygrometer, was ascertained with +tolerable precision by the state of a small piece of sea-weed, +the weight of which varied according to the dryness or moisture +of the atmosphere between one and three scruples. I found it on +all occasions extremely sensible, and very often to predict a +change of wind much sooner than the barometer.</p> +<p>Fahrenheit's thermometer ranged between 64 and 74 degrees, but +the usual extremes were between 66 and 70 degrees.</p> +<p>1822. January 1.</p> +<p>During the day of the 1st of January the depth of the bar was +frequently sounded but as there was not more than ten feet and a +half water upon it we were necessarily detained at the +anchorage.</p> +<p>January 2.</p> +<p>On the following morning also at four o'clock the depth was +the same; but at ten o'clock the water rose suddenly eighteen +inches, upon which the anchors were lifted and the brig warped +over the bar to an anchorage in three and a half fathoms off the +outer watering-place, to await a favourable opportunity of going +over to Seal Island; near which it was intended to anchor in +order to refit the rigging and otherwise prepare the vessel for +our voyage up the west coast.</p> +<p>In the afternoon we procured a load of water and permitted the +natives, thirteen of whom were assembled, to pay us another +visit. On their coming on board it was noticed that many of them +belonged to the tribe that lived on the opposite shore, but how +they had crossed over was not satisfactorily ascertained. Their +wonder on this their last visit was much raised by our firing off +a nine-pounder loaded with shot, the splash of which in the water +caused the greatest astonishment, and one of them was extremely +vehement and noisy in explaining it to his companions. Upon +repeating this exhibition they paid particular attention to the +operation of loading the gun, and expressed the greatest surprise +at the weight of the ball, upon which, after they had all +severally examined it, they held a long and wordy argument as to +what it possibly could be. At the splash of the ball, for which +they were all looking out, they expressed their delight by +shouting in full chorus the words Cai, cai, cai, cai, caigh. +After this they were sent on shore.</p> +<p>January 3.</p> +<p>At daybreak the next morning an opportunity offered to cross +the sound, and by eight o'clock the brig was anchored under Seal +Island; upon which we commenced the repair of the rigging, and in +the course of the day shifted the main topmast. We had left the +anchorage on the other side of the sound too early for our +friends the natives, who had promised last evening to bring us a +hawk's nest that was built upon a rock near the watering-place; +at ten o'clock a very large fire was perceived close to the nest; +it was no doubt kindled by them, and meant to show that they were +not inattentive to their promise.</p> +<p>January 4.</p> +<p>The following day some natives were seen about a mile off upon +the beach but did not come near the vessel. Mr. Cunningham +botanised upon the summit of Bald Head. Of this excursion he gave +me the following account: "Upon reaching the summit of the ridge, +and clearing a rocky gully which intersected our track, we +instantly entered an elevated valley of pure white sand, bounded +on either side by ridges forty feet high, that were in themselves +totally bare, excepting on the tops, where a thin clothing of +shrubs was remarked; the whole surface reflected a heat scarcely +supportable, and the air was so stagnant as scarcely to be +respired, although we were at a considerable elevation, and in +the vicinity of a constant current of pure atmospheric air on the +ridge. After traversing the whole length of this sandy vale, +which is one-third of a mile in extent, in our route towards Bald +Head, with scarcely a plant to attract our attention, we +perceived at its extremity some remarkably fine specimens of +Candollea cuneiformis, Labil., which had, in spite of the poverty +and looseness of the drifting sand, risen to large spreading +trees, sixteen feet high, of robust growth and habit; they were +at this time covered with flowers and ripe fruit; but so painful +was it to the eyes and senses to remain for a moment stationary +in this heated valley, that whilst I gathered a quantity of the +seeds of this truly rich plant, my servant was obliged to hurry +away to a cooler air on the ridge, which we had again nearly +reached; and but for this fine plant, and the no less conspicuous +blue-flowered Scaevola nitida, Br. The whole scene would have +deeply impressed us with all the horrors that such extremes of +aridity are naturally calculated to excite.</p> +<p>"Upon again reaching the ridge, whose moderated temperature +required our care to avoid suffering from the sudden transition, +we came to the granite, on whose bare surface I found a prostrate +specimen of baeckea, remarkable for the regularity of its +decussate leaves, which I have designated in my list as Baeckea +saxicola. Continuing to the extremity of the ridge, I was much +surprised to find we had already attained the highest point of +the range, and to observe another expanse, or extensive cavity, +of bare white sand below us, to the South-East, the termination +of which we afterwards found to be the Bald Head, of Captain +Vancouver. This part is of remarkable appearance from seaward, +having on either side of its bare sandy summit a contrasting +brushy vegetation: from the sea however a very small part only of +its extensive surface of sand can be perceived, the greater part +being only observable from the commanding hillocks we had with +much exertion arrived at. A calcareous rock (affording evidently +a very considerable portion of pure lime) was seen in a +decomposing state piercing the sandy surface of all parts of the +ridge about Bald Head which, however, is itself a pure granite; +the dense low brushy wood in its vicinity is chiefly composed of +the delicate baeckea."*</p> +<blockquote>(*Footnote. Cunningham manuscripts.)</blockquote> +<p>In the evening we visited Seal Island, and killed five seals +for the sake of their skins, which were serviceable for the +rigging; the boat's crew also found some penguins (Aptenodytes +minor) and a nest of iguanas. The bottle deposited here at our +last visit in 1818 was found suspended where it had been left and +brought on board, when another memorandum was enclosed in it, +containing a notification of our present visit, of the friendly +and communicative disposition of the natives, and a copy of the +vocabulary of their language.</p> +<p>January 5.</p> +<p>On the 5th in the afternoon on our return to the vessel, after +visiting the shore and landing upon the flat rock, which is +merely a bare mass of granite, of about thirty yards in diameter, +some natives were heard calling to us, and upon our pulling to +the part whence the sound came, we found two men and a boy. After +some time they were discovered to be three of our Oyster-Harbour +friends, and therefore we made no hesitation of communicating +with them, and of taking them on board, where they were regaled +upon the flesh of the seals we had killed at the island.</p> +<p>Notwithstanding the friendly disposition of the inhabitants of +this sound, I felt it necessary to act very cautiously in our +communication with them, in order to avoid any misunderstanding. +And that this might not even be accidentally done, I requested +Mr. Cunningham to confine his walks to the vicinity of the +vessel, and particularly to avoid any route that would take him +towards their encampment. He was therefore prevented from +visiting many parts near which he had promised himself much +amusement and information in botanizing, particularly the +neighbourhood of Bayonet Head, and the distant parts of Oyster +Harbour. At our former visit to this place he had searched in +vain for that curious little plant Cephalotus follicularis, Br.,* +but on this occasion he was more fortunate, for he found it in +the greatest profusion in the vicinity of the stream that empties +itself over the beach of the outer bay where we watered. Of this +he says: "The plants of cephalotus were all in a very weak state, +and none in any stage of fructification: the ascidia, or +pitchers, which are inserted on strong foot-stalks, and +intermixed about the root with the leaves, all contained a +quantity of discoloured water, and, in some, the drowned bodies +of ants and other small insects. Whether this fluid can be +considered a secretion of the plant, as appears really to be the +fact with reference to the nepenthes, or pitcher-plant of +India,** deposited by it through its vessels into the pitchers; +or even a secretion of the ascidia themselves; or whether it is +not simply rainwater lodged in these reservoirs, as a provision +from which the plant might derive support in seasons of +protracted drought, when those marshy lands (in which this +vegetable is alone to be found) are partially dried of the +moisture that is indispensable to its existence, may perhaps be +presumed by the following observations. The opercula, shaped like +some species of oyster, or escalop-shells, I found in some +pitchers to be very closely shut upon their orifices, although +their cavities, upon examination, contained but very little +water, and the state of the weather was exceedingly cloudy, and +at intervals showery; if, therefore, the appendages are really +cisterns, to receive an elemental fluid for the nourishment of +the plant in times of drought, it is natural to suppose that this +circumstance would operate upon the ramified vessels of the lids, +so as to draw them up, and allow the rain to replenish the +pitchers. Mr. Brown also, who had an opportunity in 1801 of +examining plants fully grown, supposes it probable that the +vertical or horizontal positions in which the opercula were +remarked, are determined by the state of the atmosphere, at the +same time that he thinks it possible that the fluid may be a +secretion of the plant. The several dead insects that were +observed within the vases of cephalotus were very possibly +deposited there by an insect of prey, since I detected a +slender-bodied fly (ichneumon) within a closed pitcher, having +evidently forced its passage under the lid to the interior, where +an abundant store of putrescent insects were collected. Whilst, +therefore, these pitchers are answering the double purpose, of +being a reservoir to retain a fluid, however produced, for the +nourishment of the plant in the exigency of a dry season, as also +a repository of food for rapacious insects, as in sarracenia, or +the American pitcher-plant; it is also probable that the air, +disengaged by these drowned ants, may be important and beneficial +to the life of the Australian plant, as Sir James E. Smith has +suggested, in respect to the last-mentioned genus, wild in the +swamp of Georgia and Carolina.</p> +<blockquote>(*Footnote. Flinders volume 1 page 64 and Brown's +General Remarks in Flinders volume 2 page 601 et +seq.)</blockquote> +<blockquote>(**Footnote. Smith's Introduction to Botany page +150.)</blockquote> +<p>"I spent much time in a fruitless search for flowering +specimens of cephalotus; all the plants were very small and weak, +and showed no disposition to produce flowers at the season, and +none had more than three or four ascidia."*</p> +<blockquote>(*Footnote. Cunningham manuscripts.)</blockquote> +<p>The only edible plants that Mr. Cunningham found were a +creeping parsley (Apium prostratum, Labil.) and a species of +orach (Atriplex halimus, Brown) the latter was used by us every +day, boiled with salt provisions, and proved a tolerable +substitute for spinach or greens. During our visit we caught but +very few fish, and only a few oysters were obtained, on account +of the banks being seldom uncovered, and the presence of the +natives which prevented my trusting the people out of my sight +for fear of a quarrel. Shellfish of other sorts were obtained at +Mistaken Island in abundance, of which the most common were a +patella and an haliotis; the inhabitant of the former made a +coarse, although a savoury dish. There were also varieties of the +following genera: namely, lepas, chiton, cardium, pinna, nerita, +two or three species of ostrea, a small mytilus, and a small +buccinum of great beauty; that covered the rocks and at low water +might be collected in abundance.</p> +<p><a name="chapter04"></a></p> +<h3>CHAPTER 4.</h3> +<blockquote>Leave King George the Third's Sound, and commence the +survey of the West Coast at Rottnest Island.<br> +Another remarkable effect of mirage.<br> +Anchor under, and land upon Rottnest Island.<br> +Break an anchor.<br> +Examine the coast to the northward.<br> +Cape Leschenault.<br> +Lancelin Island.<br> +Jurien Bay.<br> +Houtman's Abrolhos.<br> +Moresby's Flat-topped Range.<br> +Red Point.<br> +Anchor in Dirk Hartog's Road, at the entrance of Shark's Bay.<br> +Occurrences there.<br> +Examination of the coast to the North-west Cape.<br> +Barrow Island.<br> +Heavy gale off the Montebello Isles.<br> +Rowley's Shoals.<br> +Cape Leveque.<br> +Dangerous situation of the brig among the islands of Buccaneer's +Archipelago.<br> +Examination and description of Cygnet Bay.<br> +Lose an anchor, and leave the coast.<br> +Adele Island.<br> +Return to Port Jackson.</blockquote> +<p>1822. January 6.</p> +<p>We sailed from King George's Sound on the 6th.</p> +<p>January 8.</p> +<p>But from south-westerly winds, were no further advanced by the +8th than the meridian of Cape Chatham. After which, entering a +current setting at one mile an hour to the westward, the brig +made considerable progress.</p> +<p>January 10.</p> +<p>At daylight, 10th, Cape Leeuwin came in sight from the +masthead, and at eight o'clock was seen from the deck at the +distance of ten leagues, bearing North 42 degrees East by +compass.</p> +<p>At this, the south-westernmost extremity of New Holland, +Captain Flinders commenced his examination of the south coast, +but saw no part to the northward. The French expedition under +Captain Baudin were upon this part at two different periods of +their voyage, and it appears from an examination of their tracks +that the coast between Capes Leeuwin and Peron, the latter of +which is about five leagues to the southward of the entrance of +Swan River, has been sufficiently examined by them. They landed +in several parts of Geographe Bay which affords a shelter from +southerly winds but is so exposed to those between North and +West-North-West that the French ships ran great danger of being +shipwrecked during a gale from that quarter.</p> +<p>The coast is sandy, and from M. Peron's description, barren +and unprofitable. With the exception of the Recif du Naturaliste +which lies about five leagues to the north of the Cape of that +name there seems to be no danger in the vicinity of the bay. The +small inlet of Port Leschenault is only the embouchure of a +salt-marsh; it is scarcely attainable even by boats; for there +appears to be only three feet water on the bar, and over and +within it not more than fifteen feet. The French found no fresh +water in any part of Geographe Bay. From Port Leschenault to Cape +Peron the coast is low and sandy but inland it is of a moderate +height and appears to be furnished with a slight vegetation. The +French ships sailed along this coast at the distance of four or +five miles from the beach, and the report made by them is +sufficiently in detail for all the purposes of navigation.</p> +<p>Upon these considerations it was not deemed necessary that we +should examine this part again, and therefore sailed at a +distance from the land to ensure a quicker passage to Cape Peron, +in order to explore the bay behind the Isles of Louis Napoleon. +Swan River and Rottnest Island had been already carefully +examined by the French; but from the latter island to the +North-west Cape, with the exception of Shark's Bay, they saw very +little of the coast, and have given its outline principally from +Van Keulen.*</p> +<blockquote>(*Footnote. Freycinet page 441.)</blockquote> +<p>At noon on the 10th our latitude was 34 degrees 16 minutes 14 +seconds, and a large bare, sandy patch upon the land, the Tache +Blanche remarquable of Captain Baudin, bore North 77 degrees East +(magnetic). At six o'clock in the evening we passed Cape +Naturaliste, having experienced a strong current setting North 11 +degrees West, at nearly two miles per hour; hence we steered to +the northward, but it was dark when we passed near the position +assigned to the Recif Naturaliste: after steering on for three +hours longer we edged in for the land and at ten o'clock hauled +to the wind for the night.</p> +<p>January 11.</p> +<p>The next day at noon we were in latitude 32 degrees 36 minutes +2 seconds, having the land about Cape Peron in sight from the +masthead, bearing East by South 1/2 South; but during the day the +wind was so light that we had not approached it within four +leagues by sunset.</p> +<p>At this time the coast was visible as far as Cape Bouvard +between which and Cape Peron it is low and sandy, but the hills +appeared to be tolerably well wooded, and of a moderate height. +Buache Island was visible as well as the small rocky islet +between it and Cape Peron. The former is low and sandy, and its +outline of hummocky shape; and to the eastward was some distant +land trending towards the assigned entrance of Swan River. To the +northward of Buache Island a small lump was seen on the horizon, +which perhaps might have been Berthollet Island, but it was very +indistinct. The sun set in a dense bank and the moment it +disappeared a very copious dew began to fall.</p> +<p>January 12.</p> +<p>The next morning at daylight the land to the southward of Cape +Peron was ten miles off, but at half-past nine o'clock we were +between Capes Peron and Bouvard, and about five miles from the +shore, which from the former extended in a North-East by North +direction, still low and sandy.</p> +<p>At noon the latitude was observed to be 32 degrees 30 minutes +42 seconds, but by the land it was only 32 degrees 23 minutes 30 +seconds, a difference of 7 minutes 12 seconds. This error was +occasioned by the haze which concealed the true horizon, and +caused an appearance of land all round us, on which rocks, sandy +beaches, and trees were so plainly formed that the officer of the +watch actually reported two islands on the western horizon. This +was the most remarkable instance of mirage that we ever +witnessed; the haze had only commenced a few minutes before noon, +whilst the observation for the latitude was in the act of being +taken; and immediately after I was employed upon the chart for +half an hour, puzzling myself in attempting to reconcile the +observed latitude with the bearings of the land. This curious +phenomenon was also witnessed by the French in Geographe Bay. +During the time this magical appearance continued, we had very +light airs from the southward: the barometrical column fell to +29.76 inches, but the hygrometer indicated an extraordinary +dryness of the air. At sunset the haze cleared away, when +Rottnest Island was seen, bearing between North 10 degrees and 32 +degrees East (magnetic); a breeze then freshened from +West-South-West but gradually veered round to the southward; and +at nine o'clock was very light from South-East.</p> +<p>January 13.</p> +<p>During the night we made short tacks. At four o'clock in the +morning (13th) the latitude by the moon's meridional altitude was +32 degrees 16 minutes 17 seconds, and soon afterwards Rottnest +was in sight in the North-North-East. At six o'clock the sky was +clouded, and the weather threatened to be bad; the mercury fell +to 29.69 inches, upon which all sail was made off the land, as +appearances indicated a westerly gale: but after an interval of +two hours, during which we had a fresh breeze from North-West by +West, the weather cleared up and we steered towards Rottnest +Island.</p> +<p>January 14.</p> +<p>The next morning the brig was anchored off the north-east end +of the island in thirteen fathoms gravelly sand; and in the +afternoon I went on shore in a bay on the east or leeward side, +where we found the water smooth and the landing more practicable +than upon the north side where a tremendous surf was rolling in +upon the beach. We disturbed a great many seals but only killed +three; and were much disappointed in finding that these animals +were not of the fur species, as in M. de Freycinet's account of +the island they are said to be; they were evidently the same +description as those noticed at King George's Sound. The traces +of a small kangaroo were everywhere abundant but the animals were +not seen. We walked to the easternmost of the lakes which the +French named Etangs Duvaildaily and which M. de Freycinet remarks +as being surrounded by an extensive beach, composed entirely of +bivalve shells, a species of cardium: the quantity was indeed +extraordinary. The banks were frequented by gulls and sandpipers, +of which many were shot. The water was found to be perfectly salt +and from the circumstance of its rising and falling with the tide +it must have some communication with the sea. The rocks of the +island are principally calcareous and in a very advanced state of +decomposition. The beaches were covered with dead shells of the +genera buccinum, bulla, murex, trochus, and haliotis; but we +found none with the living animal in them. Of the feathered tribe +a hawk and a pigeon were the only land-birds seen; but boobies, +terns, and sandpipers were very numerous about the shores. Mr. +Cunningham was fully employed during the short time that we were +on shore, and excepting the pleasing interest created in our +minds by landing on an island which has been so seldom before +seen, and which from Vlaming's account bears a prominent place in +the history of this part of the coast, he was the only one of the +party that derived any advantage from our visit. Of the +productions of this island he makes the following brief remarks: +"It is surprising that an island, situated at so short a distance +from the south-west coast, should bear so small a feature of the +characteristic vegetation of King George's Sound as not to +furnish a plant of its several genera of Proteaceae or Mimoseae, +and but a solitary plant of Leguminosae. It would therefore seem +that these families are confined to the shores of the main, +particularly about King George's Sound, where we have just left +them in the greatest luxuriance and profusion. Among the +botanical productions of this island there is no plant of so +striking a feature as the callitris, a tree of about twenty-five +feet high, with a short stem of three feet in diameter; it much +resembles the Pinus cedrus, or cedar of Lebanon, in its robust +horizontal growth; it is found abundantly over the island, and +within a few yards of the sea-beach. The island is formed by a +succession of small hills and intervening valleys; and although +the soil is very poor, being principally a mixture of quartzose +sand and a large proportion of marine exuviae, yet this tree +grows to a considerable size, but covering the surface of the +island, gives it a monotonous appearance which is however +occasionally relieved by a spreading undescribed species of +melaleuca (allied to Melaleuca armillaris, Smith) and the more +elegant pittosporum, an arborescent species, also undescribed. In +fact, these three trees constitute the timber of the island. The +ground is in some parts profusely clothed with Spinifex hirsutus, +Labil., in which I detected a new species of xerotes, a round +bushy plant growing in large bodies.</p> +<p>"No fresh water has ever been discovered upon this island: +indeed the loose filtering nature of the soil is not tenacious +enough to retain that element at the surface. The woods are +abundantly stocked with a small species of kangaroo of which we +saw only the traces; nor did we see the animal, on account of +whose numbers and resemblance to a rat the island received its +name from Vlaming in 1619. M. Peron says that it forms a new +genus, and of a very remarkable character.* Rottnest Island does +not appear ever to have been inhabited or even visited by the +natives from the main; probably on account of the stormy nature +of the weather, and the prevalence of westerly winds, which would +be quite sufficient to deter them from venturing to sea in such +fragile vessels as they possess."**</p> +<blockquote>(*Footnote. Peron volume 1 page 189.)</blockquote> +<blockquote>(**Footnote. Cunningham manuscripts.)</blockquote> +<p>January 15.</p> +<p>On our return to the brig, we passed over a clear sandy bottom +that would have afforded better anchorage than where we had +brought up; for the vessel was not only exposed to a considerable +swell but the ground was so foul that in weighing the anchor the +following morning one of the flukes hooked a rock and broke off, +besides which the cable was much rubbed.</p> +<p>As Swan River had been very minutely examined in Baudin's +voyage by MM. Heirisson and Baily, the former an enseigne de +vaisseau, the latter a mineralogist, an account of which is fully +detailed in De Freycinet's and Peron's respective accounts of +that voyage,* without their finding anything of sufficient +importance to induce me to risk leaving the brig at anchor off +Rottnest Island for so long a time as it would necessarily take +to add to the knowledge of it that we already possess, I did not +think it advisable to delay for such a purpose, and therefore as +soon as we were underweigh steered for the mainland and continued +to run northerly along the shore at the distance of six miles +from it. At noon our latitude was 31 degrees 37 minutes 32 +seconds. The coast is formed by sandy hillocks, or dunes, of from +one hundred to one hundred and fifty feet high, here and there +sprinkled with shrubs, but in many parts quite bare: behind this +frontier a second range of hills was occasionally seen on which +the trees appeared to be of moderate size: the shore is rocky for +two miles off and in many parts the sea broke. At half-past three +o'clock we were abreast of a low, sandy projection, supposed to +be Captain Baudin's Cape Leschenault. The appearance of the coast +to the northward on this cape differed from what we passed in the +morning, in that the coast hillocks are more bare of vegetation; +there appeared to be several ridges behind the coast dunes, but +they were all equally unproductive of vegetation. Lancelin Island +was not distinctly made out but the two small rocky lumps on the +bare sandhills that M. De Freycinet mentions, were seen and +thought to be very remarkable. At seven o'clock, having reached +in my plan the latitude 31 degrees 0 minutes 30 seconds, and +longitude 115 degrees 0 minutes 0 seconds, we hauled off shore +for the night.</p> +<p>January 16.</p> +<p>And at six o'clock a.m. stood towards the land again. At +half-past ten o'clock we were so near to it as to see the beach: +at noon the latitude was observed to be 30 degrees 52 minutes 13 +seconds, its longitude being 114 degrees 56 minutes 45 seconds, +at which time we were on the parallel of the two rocky lumps seen +the last evening. Hence we steered north on a parallel direction +with the coast and ran forty-five miles, passing the different +projections of the beach at the distance of four or five miles, +and sounding in between nineteen and twenty-five fathoms. At four +o'clock we were abreast of a bare sandy point which appeared to +be the north head of Jurien Bay, in which two rocky islets were +seen, fronted by reefs, on which the sea in many parts was +breaking violently. To the southward of the point the coast hills +are rather high and principally formed of very white sand, +bearing a strong resemblance, from the absence of vegetables, to +hills covered with snow. Here and there however a few shrubs +partially concealed the sand, and gave a variety to the scene +which was dismally triste. The country to the northward bears a +different character; the shore is very low and sandy and +continues so for some distance in the interior towards the base +of a range of tolerably-elevated hills, on which the French have +placed three remarkable pitons, but these, perhaps from our being +too close in shore, we did not discover.</p> +<blockquote>(*Footnote. See De Freycinet page 175 et seq and +Peron volume 1 page 178 et seq.)</blockquote> +<p>This range extends in a North by West and South by East +direction, and appears to be rocky. In the middle ground some +trees were noticed and vegetation appeared to be more abundant +than in the space between the bare sandy point and Cape +Leschenault. In Jurien Bay towards its south part near the shore +is a small hillock, on which some trees of a moderate size were +seen; they are thus noticed because the existence of trees +hereabout is so rare as to be deserving of record. No native +fires were seen between this part and Rottnest Island, nor was +there any other indication of the coast being inhabited; it is +however likely to be as populous as any other part, for the hills +in the interior, which we occasionally got a glimpse of, seemed +to be wooded, and would therefore furnish subsistence to natives +from hunting, even if the seashore failed in supplying them with +fish. Between the bare sandy point and Island Point there is a +deep bay, the shores of which are fronted by a reef partly dry, +extending from the shore two miles.</p> +<p>At seven o'clock we were about a mile and a half from a reef +that nearly crossed our course; and as it was time to haul off +for the night we shortened sail and brought to the wind, then +blowing a strong squally breeze from south; but notwithstanding +this succession of bad weather, the mercury in the barometer had +ranged steadily between 29.90 and 29.92 inches.</p> +<p>January 17.</p> +<p>At daybreak we steered in for the land but ran twenty-two +miles before it was seen. At nine o'clock it bore between +North-East and South-East, and at a quarter after nine heavy +breakers were seen in the South-East at the distance of five +miles. The weather was now fine and the wind South-South-East, +but still blew strong; the horizon was so enveloped by haze that +the land, although not more than seven miles from our track, was +very indistinctly seen: it seemed to be formed of sandhills, from +one hundred to one hundred and fifty feet high, slightly studded +with a scrubby vegetation; in the interior we perceived a range +of hills of tabular form which are probably very high. At ten +o'clock we passed another patch of breakers at the distance of +about a mile and a half; but these appeared to have no connexion +with those seen at nine o'clock. Our soundings were between +fifteen and seventeen fathoms, and our distance from the beach +from six to seven miles. At noon the wind veered back to +South-South-West and blew hard: we were at this time in 29 +degrees 5 minutes 1 second South and by chronometers in 114 +degrees 40 minutes 30 seconds East; by which we found that a +current had set us during the last twenty-four hours to the +North-North-West at one mile per hour. At half-past twelve +o'clock more breakers were seen bearing North-West 1/2 North, +when we hauled off West-North-West in order to ascertain the +distance between the land and the Abrolhos bank which, in Van +Keulen's chart, is placed abreast of this part of the coast.</p> +<p>At half-past four o'clock the masthead man was cautioned to +look out for breakers and in less than half an hour afterwards he +reported some bearing North-West by North. On going to the +masthead I saw them distinctly for they were not more than four +miles off, and on looking round the horizon towards the westward, +distinctly saw the island of Frederick Houtman's Abrolhos, which +for some time the masthead man persisted was only the shadow of +the clouds; but a small hummock being soon afterwards descried +upon the summit of the largest, confirmed my conjectures. The +group appeared to consist of three islands, all low and of small +size. Beyond and around them the sea was smooth and to the +southward another patch of breakers was observed. Preparations +were now made to tack off, but I had scarcely reached the deck +when the lookout man reported rocks under our lee bow, upon which +the helm was immediately put up; and when the vessel's head was +round upon the opposite tack the following bearings were +taken:</p> +<p>Island of the Abrolhos: eight miles off, between West and +South 75 degrees West.</p> +<p>Breakers: four miles off, North-North-West North.</p> +<p>Another patch: seven miles off, South-West.</p> +<p>And the small rock patch, half a mile off, West.</p> +<p>This last I did not see myself but two men perceived it +distinctly from the masthead, and it is from their accounts that +I am induced to give it a place upon the chart. The position of +the vessel when we saw the breakers was in latitude 28 degrees 53 +minutes and in longitude 114 degrees 2 minutes, and from the +short interval between our obtaining sights for the chronometer +and the meridional observation at noon, the position may be +considered to be tolerably correct. After taking the bearings and +before sail was made we sounded in twenty-five fathoms, fine +shelly sand; but as we stood to the eastward the water gradually +deepened to twenty-nine and thirty fathoms.</p> +<p>January 18.</p> +<p>The next morning at daylight the land was out of sight but at +five o'clock was distinguished, forming a range of flat-topped +land, probably about one thousand feet high. At the northern end +of the range were four or five hills standing apart from each +other, of which, in the view we then had of them, the +northernmost was flat-topped, and the others peaked; at the south +end of the range were three other distinct hills, the centre +being peaked and the other two flat-topped. Near the centre of +the main range was another summit that was remarkable for its +form.</p> +<p>This range was seen by Captain Hamelin of the Naturaliste, and +is thus noticed by M. De Freycinet in his account of the voyage. +"Entre les paralleles de 29 degres et 28 degres 20 minutes, la +terre est tres haute; on y remarque deux montagnes bien +reconnoisables par leur forme qui approche de celle de la Grange, +sur la cote de Saint-Domingue, ou de la Montagne de la Table au +Cap de Bonne-Esperance; une autre ressemble un peu au Pouce, de +l'Ile-de-France. La terre est aride, bordee de falaises +rougeatres; on y voit peu de sable comparativement aux terres +plus au sud."*</p> +<blockquote>(*Footnote. De Freycinet page 181.)</blockquote> +<p>We sought in vain for the resemblance to the Pouce, but as all +the hills were flat-topped of course they were similar to the +Table Land of the Cape of Good Hope, but probably inferior to it +in point of height.</p> +<p>This range I called after Captain Moresby, R.N. C.B., in +grateful recognition of the prompt assistance rendered by him to +the wants and repairs of our vessel, during her late visit to +Mauritius. The summit in the centre was called Mount Fairfax; the +group of hills at the north end were named Menai Hills, and the +three at the south end of the range were distinguished by the +name of Wizard Hills; Mount Fairfax is in latitude 28 degrees 45 +minutes 20 seconds, longitude 114 degrees 38 minutes 45 seconds. +The shore in front of these hills is sandy and there was an +appearance of two openings in the beach that were probably the +outlets of mountain-streams. The country also appeared much +better wooded than in other parts, and as large smokes were seen +in the valleys the place most likely at the time of our passing +frequented by natives.</p> +<p>Hence the coast trends to the North-West by North towards a +patch of bare sand, which is remarkable because the coast is not +so sandy as it is more to the south. At ten o'clock a very thick +haze spread over the land and so enveloped it that nothing could +be distinguished. At noon, the brig being in 28 degrees 25 +minutes 42 seconds South, and 114 degrees 7 minutes 0 seconds +East, the haze partially cleared away and showed that the coast +had changed its character, being now steep, and in some parts +cliffy, but still occasionally studded with spots of bare sand. +In the interior a rocky, flat-topped hill was seen; it is +probably the Mount Naturaliste of the French. The coast trends +here in a North by West direction.</p> +<p>The passage or channel between the Abrolhos Bank and the coast +has been distinguished by the name of Vlaming's ship, The +Geelvink, since she was the first vessel that passed them (Anno +1697). Captain Hamelin in the Naturaliste also passed within +them, imagining that he perceived them to the eastward, but what +he saw must have been the summit of Moresby's Flat-topped +Range.*</p> +<blockquote>(*Footnote. So M. De Freycinet also thinks, for he +says: "quelques personnes n'osent assurer que nous ayons vu les +Abrolhos; d'autres, et je suis de ce nombre, peusent que ce que +nous avons pris pour ce groupe d'iles est une portion du +Continent." Freycinet page 180.)</blockquote> +<p>The soundings of the coast upon our track between Rottnest +Island and the Abrolhos have been gradually of a gravelly nature, +mixed sometimes with shelly sand, and were generally coarser as +we approached the shore. In some parts, particularly near Cape +Naturaliste and Rottnest Island, the bottom appeared to be a bed +of small water-worn quartzose pebbles not larger than a pin's +head. Off Moresby's Flat-topped Range the bottom is of a soft +dark-gray-coloured sand of a very fine quality that would afford +good anchorage was it not for the constant swell that pervades +this stormy coast; the water was however much smoother than in +other parts, which might have been occasioned either by the +Abrolhos bank's breaking the sea, or from the temporary cessation +of the wind, for it was comparatively light to what it had been +since our leaving Rottnest Island.</p> +<p>A large patch of bare sand terminates the sandy shores of this +coast in latitude 27 degrees 55 minutes. A steep cliff then +commences and extends for eight miles to the Red Point of +Vlaming; behind which is a bight, called by the French Gantheaume +Bay; in the south part of which there appeared a small opening. +This bay did not seem to be so well calculated for taking shelter +in from southerly gales, as Van Keulen's chart indicates; since +it is exposed to winds from South-West by South, from which +quarter it must frequently blow. The country appeared very rocky; +the slight vegetation covering its surface gave it a greenish +hue, but no trees were seen near the shore which is fronted by a +sandy beach; the depth of the bight is probably five or six +miles. The cliffs of Red Point partake of a reddish tinge and +appear to be disposed nearly in horizontal strata. In the centre +and about halfway between the base and summit of the cliffs is a +remarkable block of stone, of very white colour, that at a +distance appeared to be either a fort or house: some black marks +on its face took our attention and resembled characters of a very +large size, as if they had been painted for the purpose of +attracting the attention of vessels passing by; but a closer +examination with the telescope prove them to be only the shadows +of the projecting parts of the surface.</p> +<p>At half-past seven o'clock we hauled off for the night and, +standing off and on, sounded in between thirty-three and +thirty-five fathoms.</p> +<p>January 19.</p> +<p>At daylight the next morning the land bore from East to +East-South-East but the morning and forenoon were so hazy that it +was very indistinctly seen; at noon a partial clearing away of +the haze exposed to our view a long range of high and precipitous +cliffs, the base of which was washed by the sea, breaking upon it +with a tremendous roar, and heard distinctly by us. The wind +falling in the afternoon induced me to stand off shore, when we +soon lost sight of the land. At noon we were in latitude 27 +degrees 5 minutes 18 seconds. At one o'clock the depth was +forty-five fathoms fine gray sand. No land was seen during the +rest of the day; for although the sky was beautifully clear and +serene, the atmosphere for fifteen degrees above the horizon was +enveloped in a thick hazy mist that caused an extraordinary +dampness in the air, and from the unfavourable state of the +weather we did not attempt to make it again.</p> +<p>January 20.</p> +<p>The next morning we saw that part of Dirk Hartog's Island +which lies in 25 degrees 56 minutes, and when we had reached +within four miles of the shore steered to the northward parallel +to the beach, but the haze was still so great as to render the +land very indistinct. We saw enough of it however to be convinced +of its perfect sterility. The coast is lined with a barrier of +rocks on which the sea was breaking high with a roar that was +heard on board although our distance from the shore was at least +three miles.</p> +<p>The warmth of the weather now began rapidly to increase; the +thermometer at noon ranged as high as 79 degrees.</p> +<p>At one o'clock Cape Inscription, the north-westernmost point +of Dirk Hartog's Island, was distinguished and the sea-breeze +veered as far as South-West by West, which was two points more +westerly than we had hitherto had it. At two o'clock the brig +passed round the cape and, as there was an appearance of good +shelter in the bay to the eastward of it, we hauled in and at +half-past three o'clock anchored in twelve fathoms fine gravelly +soft sand; the west point of Dirk Hartog's Island (Cape +Inscription) bearing North 82 degrees West, and the low sandy +point that forms its north-east end South 53 degrees West, at a +mile and a half from the shore.</p> +<p>As we hauled round the cape and were passing under the lee of +the land the breeze became so suddenly heated, by its blowing +over the arid and parched surface of the coast, that my seaweed +hygrometer, which had been quite damp since we left Rottnest +Island, was in ten minutes so dried as to be covered with +crystals of salt; and in this state it continued during our +stay.</p> +<p>Upon rounding the cape two posts were descried upon its +summit, which we conjectured to be those on which the French had +affixed a record of their visit, as well as the more ancient one +of the Dutch navigators, Dirk Hartog and Vlaming; for they were +very conspicuously placed and appeared to be in good +preservation.</p> +<p>We had not anchored five minutes before the vessel was +surrounded by sharks, which at once impressed us with the +propriety of Dampier's nomenclature. One that was caught measured +eleven feet in length but the greater number were not more than +three or four feet long. They were very voracious and scared away +large quantities of fish, of which, however, our people during +the evening caught a good supply.</p> +<p>January 21.</p> +<p>The following morning we landed at the Cape and with eager +steps ascended the rocky face of the hill to examine the +interesting memorials that were affixed to the post; but found to +our great mortification that they had been removed; the only +vestige that remained was the nails by which they had been +secured. One of the posts was about two feet high and evidently +made of the wood of the callitris, that grows upon Rottnest +Island; it appeared to have been broken down; the other was still +erect and seemed to have been either the heel of a ship's +royal-mast or part of a studding-sail boom; upon one side of it a +flag had been fastened by nails. A careful search was made all +round but, as no signs of the Dutch plate or of the more recent +French inscription were seen, it was conjectured that they had +been removed by the natives; but since our return to England I +have learnt that they are preserved in the Museum of the +Institute at Paris, where they had been deposited by M. De +Freycinet upon his return from his late voyage round the world. +After this disappointment we returned to the sea-beach, whilst +Mr. Cunningham botanised along the summit of the ridge; and +before he rejoined us we had been fortunate enough to find two +very fine turtles, and a large quantity of turtle-eggs. The +animals had been left by the tide in holes of the rocks, from +which we had some difficulty in extricating them. During our +absence from the vessel our people had been very successful with +the hook and line, having caught about five or six dozen +snappers, besides some of the genus tetradon.</p> +<p>This seasonable supply and the probability of our procuring +more turtles from the beach induced me to remain here a few days +to perform some trifling repairs that could not be effected at +sea. We were also prevented from moving, from the unfavourable +state of the weather; for it was blowing a gale of wind all the +time we remained; but as our people were living upon fresh food +the time was not considered as lost.</p> +<p>January 22.</p> +<p>The next morning fifty turtles were turned, but as we could +not convey them all on board forty were left on shore upon their +backs for the night: upon landing the next morning they were all +found dead, having killed themselves by their exertions to +escape, and from their exposure to the heat of the sun which was +so great during the day that I did not send any of the people on +shore. We found, however, no difficulty in procuring more, some +of which weighed four hundredweight.</p> +<p>The shore of this bay is fronted by a rocky reef covered with +shell-fish, of which the principal sorts were species of trochus, +chama, conus, voluta, cypraea, buccinum, ostrea, mytilus, and +patella; among the latter was the large one of King George's +Sound. Upon the beaches to windward of the cape we found +varieties of sponge and coral; and beche de mer were observed in +the crevices of the rocks but were neither large nor plentiful. +Mr. Cunningham saw two land snakes, one of which was about four +feet in length; the colour of its back was black and the belly +yellow; the only quadruped seen was a small opossum. A seal of +the hair species, like those of Rottnest Island, was seen on the +rocks, probably of the same description that Dampier found in the +maw of the shark;* and also what was found by the French on Faure +Island, which M. Peron supposed to be an herbivorous animal and +described as a dugong.**</p> +<blockquote>(*Footnote. Dampier volume 3 page 87.)</blockquote> +<blockquote>(**Footnote. Peron volume 2 page 227 et seq and De +Freycinet page 201.)</blockquote> +<p>January 24.</p> +<p>On the 24th Mr. Roe visited the Cape to fix on the post a +memorial of our visit; an inscription was carved upon a small +piece of wood in the back of which was deposited another +memorandum written upon vellum; the wood was of the size of the +sheave-hole of the larger post, into which it was fixed, and near +it Mr. Roe piled up a heap of stones. After this was accomplished +the party walked for some distance along the beach to the +south-west of the cape, where they found the remains of two or +three whales that had been lately wrecked; a small piece of +putrefied flesh was also seen, about two or three feet long, one +side of which was covered with red hair, it was however too far +gone to ascertain to what animal it belonged.</p> +<p>On examining into the state of our dry provisions it was +mortifying to find that the rats and cockroaches had destroyed an +incredible quantity, particularly of our biscuit and flour. In +one of the casks of the latter more than two-thirds of its +contents was deficient. The biscuit was completely drilled +through and the greater part would not have been thought fit to +eat if we had possessed any of a better quality; I still however +hoped to have a sufficiency on board to complete the survey of +the north-west coast before our return to Port Jackson, which I +now found would of necessity be at least four or five weeks +before the time I had fixed upon when we left the Mauritius. As +it would take up a great portion of the time we had now left to +make a more extensive examination of Shark's Bay than what the +French have already performed, and would entirely prevent my +going upon the north-west coast again; it was determined that we +should not delay here, but pass on and resume our examination of +the coast at Cape Cuvier, the northern head of the bay. The only +part of Shark's Bay that seems to be at all interesting, and to +require further examination, is the eastern side of the bay +immediately opposite to the Islands of Dorre and Bernier; but +from the very intricate and shoal nature of its approach it is +very doubtful whether even a sight of the land in that direction +could be procured.</p> +<p>The rocks of Dirk Hartog's Island are of a very remarkable +formation, consisting of a congeries of quartzose sand, united in +small circular kernels by a calcareous cement in which some +shells were found embedded. The geological character of this rock +is more fully treated upon in the Appendix by my friend Dr. +Fitton.</p> +<p>"Upon the summit of the cliffs there are a few low shrubs, at +this time much parched up, but among them Mr. Cunningham found a +tolerably rich harvest. In his collection were the following +plants, which were originally brought to Europe by Dampier; +namely, Trichinium incanum, Br.; Diplolaena dampieri, Desf.; +solanum, a thorny ferruginous species without fructification +(Solanum dampieri ?) Dampiera incana, Br.; and a cordate +melaleuca, figured by Dampier*: a beautiful loranthus +(teretifolius, Cunningham) grew on the branches of an undescribed +acacia (Acacia ligulata, Cunningham manuscript):"..."many were +the wrecks of most interesting plants, and especially those of +soft herbaceous duration, which had some time since fallen a +sacrifice to the apparent long-protracted drought of the season; +but it was impossible, amidst the sad languor of vegetation, not +to admire the luxuriant and healthy habit of an undescribed +species of pittosporum (oleifolium, Cunningham manuscript) which +formed a small robust tree, ten feet high, laden with ripe fruit. +We could perceive no traces either of remains of fires, or +otherwise of natives, in the whole length of our walk along the +edge of the cliffs or the plains, but we saw two snakes of very +distinct kinds, each exceeding five feet in length; the one black +with a yellow belly, the other green and black, but they quickly +escaped into holes, leaving a serpentine impression of their +bodies upon the sand. These marks were seen and remarked near the +edge of all the holes, which were very numerous upon the surface +of the island, before I discovered that they were the tracks of +reptiles, from which it may be inferred that these animals are +very abundant. The only bird seen was a solitary species of +loxia, but upon a steep ledge of rocks I observed one of those +nests of which frequent mention has been already made: I examined +and found it built upon the pinnacle of some large rocks, very +strongly constructed of long sticks; it was about five feet high +and exceeded four feet in diameter, with a very slight cavity +above; and seemed to have been very recently inhabited. The rocks +that formed its base were ornamented with a prostrate capparis, +or calyptranthus (Calyptranthus orbicularis, Cunningham +manuscript) which afforded me good flowering specimens. In my +walk I started a small black kangaroo: it was feeding upon the +seeds of a small acacia and, upon perceiving my approach, fled +across the down without reaching a single bush or rock large +enough to conceal itself as far as the eye could discern it, so +bare and destitute of vegetation are these arid, sandy plains."* +The heat of the weather was so great as not to allow of any +communication with the shore, excepting between daybreak and +eight o'clock. Mr. Cunningham's visits were therefore necessarily +much confined: this precaution I found it absolutely requisite to +take to prevent the people from being exposed to the very great +heat of the sun, which on shore must have been at least twenty +degrees more powerful than on board, where the thermometer ranged +between 71 1/2 degrees at midnight, and 85 and 87 degrees at +noon. The barometer ranged between 29.76 and 29.99 inches, and +stood highest when the wind was to the eastward of south, with +which winds the horizon was much clearer, and the air +consequently drier than when the wind blew from the sea.</p> +<blockquote>(*Footnote. Cunningham manuscript.)</blockquote> +<p>As an anchorage during the summer months Dirk Hartog's Road +has everything to recommend it, excepting the total absence of +fresh water which, according to the French, was not found in any +part of Shark's Bay; the anchorage is secure and the bottom clear +of rocks. There is also an abundance of fish and turtle, and of +the latter a ship might embark forty or fifty every day, for they +are very sluggish and make no effort to escape, perhaps from +knowing the impossibility of their scrambling over the rocky +barrier that fronts the shore, and dries at half ebb. Of fish we +caught only two kinds; the snapper, a species of sparus, called +by the French the rouge bossu, and a tetradon which our people +could not be persuaded to eat, although the French lived chiefly +upon it. There are some species of this genus that are poisonous +but many are of delicious flavour: it is described by M. Lacepede +in a paper in the Annal. du Museum d'Histoire Naturelle (tome 4 +page 203) as le Tetrodon argente (Tetrodon argenteus).</p> +<p>January 26.</p> +<p>On the 26th we sailed and passed outside of Dorre and +Bernier's Islands; nothing was seen of the reef that lies in +mid-channel on the south side of Dorre Island: a rippling was +noticed by Mr. Roe in an East by South direction from the +masthead at twenty minutes before one o'clock but, if the +position assigned to it by the French is correct, we had passed +it long before that time. At six o'clock Kok's Island, the small +rocky islet that lies off the north end of Bernier's Island, bore +North 83 degrees East, distant seven miles.</p> +<p>January 27.</p> +<p>The following morning at daylight the land was seen in the +North-East and at half-past eight o'clock we resumed our course +and passed Cape Cuvier, a reddish-coloured rocky bluff that +presents a precipitous face to the sea. The coast thence takes a +North by East direction; it is low and sandy and fronted by a +sandy beach, occasionally interrupted by projecting rocky points; +those parts where patches of bare sand were noticed are marked +upon the chart.</p> +<p>At one o'clock we were near a low sandy projection round which +the coast extends to the East-North-East and forms a shallow bay. +This projection was called after Sir Robert Townsend Farquhar, +Bart., the late Governor of the Mauritius.</p> +<p>Farther on, in latitude 23 degrees 10 minutes 30 seconds, is a +projection which, at Mr. Cunningham's request, was called after +Mr. William Anderson of the apothecaries' garden at Chelsea. The +coast to the northward of Point Anderson is higher than to the +southward and falls back to the North-East, but was very +imperfectly seen on account of the thick haze that enveloped it. +At a quarter before seven o'clock we hauled to the wind for the +night with a fresh gale from the southward.</p> +<p>January 28.</p> +<p>The next morning was cloudy and the horizon tolerably clear; +but towards noon a light haze began to spread, which by sunset +was so thick as entirely to conceal the land. The mercury fell as +low as 29.76 inches and, although the thermometer was at 79 +degrees and the sun powerful, yet the atmosphere was so charged +with moisture that the decks and everything out of the immediate +influence of the sun were quite damp. This extraordinary and +constant humidity appeared only to occupy the atmosphere for the +sky was always beautifully clear and serene.</p> +<p>During the night the gale blew strong from the southward with +a high topping sea from the South-West; and being occupied in +shifting the main topsail which had split during the night, we +stood off until three o'clock before we tacked towards the +shore.</p> +<p>January 29.</p> +<p>At eight o'clock being in latitude 22 degrees 19 minutes 23 +seconds, the land was visible from North-East to South 35 degrees +East at the distance of five or six leagues: by its outline +which, from the glare of the sun was the only part at all +discernible, it seemed to be of moderate height, very level, and +offering no particular mark that could be set with any chance of +recognition to obtain a cross bearing. As there is every reason +to believe that this part of the coast is what was taken by +former navigators for Cloates Island,* I have named the +southernmost point of the high land Point Cloates.</p> +<blockquote>(*Footnote. See volume 1.)</blockquote> +<p>At noon we were in latitude 21 degrees 57 minutes 5 seconds, +having experienced a current of twenty-three miles to the north +since yesterday at noon. The northern extreme, Vlaming's Head, +bore North-East by East 1/2 East and the south extreme South 7 +degrees West; and in the bearing of between South 32 degrees to +82 degrees East the land is higher than in other parts and +declines very gradually towards the extreme.</p> +<p>As the brig approached the land breakers were seen to extend +the whole length of the shore, which is fronted by a sandy beach: +the land is of moderate height but the summit is rather more +rugged than that to the southward where the outline is perfectly +level. At half-past three o'clock Vlaming Head bore south six +miles and three quarters off: at four o'clock the latitude, by +the moon's meridional altitude, was found to be 21 degrees 38 +minutes 27 seconds, at which time sights were taken for the +chronometer, which made the longitude of the head 114 degrees 2 +minutes 16 seconds: the situation assigned to it on our first +voyage was 114 degrees 1 minute 47 seconds; the mean of the two, +114 degrees 2 minutes 2 seconds, may therefore be considered its +true situation.</p> +<p>From the above observation for the latitude of the North-West +Cape agreeing nearly with those of our former voyage, I was +induced to think that there might be some land more to the +northward that the French saw and took for the cape; for they +have placed it in 21 degrees 37 minutes 7 seconds South, which is +nearly 10 minutes too northerly. Captain Horsburgh, in the +supplement to his Directory, notices some islands seen by the San +Antonio in 1818, called Piddington's Islands, that are said to +lie in the latitude of 21 degrees 36 minutes, but after steering +seventeen miles to the North-East from the above situation, +without seeing anything like land, there remained no doubt in my +mind that the French must have been deceived and that +Piddington's Islands are some of the low, sandy islets to the +eastward of Muiron Island.</p> +<p>January 30.</p> +<p>Having steered through the night on a north-east course, +Barrow's Island came in sight the next morning, when it was about +five leagues off; at eight o'clock it bore between South 27 East +and North 87 degrees East. From noon to three p.m. we had calm, +dull, and cloudy weather; and although the thermometer did not +range higher than 87 degrees, the heat was extremely oppressive, +and occasioned the death of three of our turtles. At three +o'clock a breeze springing up from the westward enabled us to +steer to the northward round the Montebello Islands, in doing +which we saw nothing of Hermite Island, which the French have +laid down as the westernmost island of that group. There is +certainly no land to the westward of Trimouille Island; and the +error can only be accounted for by Captain Baudin's having seen +the latter at two different periods; indeed this conjecture is in +some measure proved, since there is a considerable reef running +off the north-west end of that island, which in the French chart +is attached to Hermite Island; this reef might not have been seen +by him at his first visit, and when he made the land again and +observed the reef he must have concluded it to have been a second +island.</p> +<p>After steering a north course until seven o'clock and +deepening the water to sixty-five fathoms, we gradually hauled +round the north end of the Montebello Isles; and at eleven p.m. +steered East; but at two o'clock, having decreased the depth from +seventy-two to forty-one fathoms, we steered off to the northward +until daylight, and then to the East-South-East, in order to +anchor in the Mermaid's Strait to the eastward of Malus Island, +to take some stones on board as ballast, for the brig was so very +light and leewardly that it would have been running a great risk +to approach the land, as she then was. But in this we were +disappointed, for after an interval of close sultry weather, and +a severe thunderstorm, a gale of wind set in from the South-West, +during which the barometer fell as low as 29.36 inches. The gale +then veered gradually round to the North-West, and obliged us to +make sail off the coast, and by the time it moderated we were so +far to leeward of Dampier's Archipelago that I was constrained to +alter my plan and give up the idea of taking ballast on board. I +therefore determined upon making Rowley's Shoals, for the purpose +of fixing their position with greater correctness, and examining +the extent of the bight round Cape Leveque, which we were obliged +to leave unexplored during the earlier part of this voyage.</p> +<p>1822. February 4.</p> +<p>The first of these objects was effected on the 4th; on which +day we passed round the south end of the Imperieuse (the +westernmost) Shoal; which we now found to extend nearly four +miles more to the southward than had been suspected in 1818, at +which period we steered round its north end.</p> +<p>A large patch of dry rocks was also seen on the north-east end +of the reef about ten miles from the vessel's track, and Mr. Roe, +from the masthead, thought that the east side of the shoal did +not appear to be so steep as the western side.</p> +<p>From noon we steered east to make the shoal seen by the Good +Hope, but having sailed in that direction as far as latitude 17 +degrees 42 minutes 51 seconds and longitude 119 degrees 32 +minutes 4 seconds, without seeing any signs of it for ten miles +on either side of our course, we hauled to the wind for the night +and sounded in one hundred and forty-five fathoms speckled sand +and broken shells.</p> +<p>February 5.</p> +<p>At seven o'clock the following morning we were steering east +when broken water was reported bearing from East to +East-South-East, but it turned out to be a rippling which we +passed through. These ripplings have been frequently noticed in +the vicinity of the reefs, but we have been very little affected +by the tides by which they must be occasioned. At noon we were by +observation in 17 degrees 43 minutes 41 seconds and longitude 119 +degrees 41 minutes 52 seconds, when we sounded in one hundred and +twenty fathoms, speckled sand mixed with broken shells and +stones; and at twenty miles farther to the eastward sounded again +on the same depth.</p> +<p>February 6.</p> +<p>At eight o'clock the next morning, having steered through the +night North-East by East, we were in ninety fathoms, sand, broken +shells, and large stones.</p> +<p>February 8.</p> +<p>On the morning of the 8th the land was seen in the South-East +and soon afterwards the brig passed round Cape Leveque at the +distance of a mile and a half. On our way towards Point Swan we +saw from the masthead a line of strong tide-ripplings, extending +from the point in a North-West by West direction; within which we +at first attempted to pass but, finding that they were connected +to the point, hauled up to steer through them where they seemed +to be the least dangerous. As we approached the noise was +terrific and, although we were not more than two minutes amongst +the breakers, yet the shocks of the sea were so violent as to +make me fear for the safety of our masts. A smaller vessel would +perhaps have been swamped; for although the sea was in other +parts quite smooth and the wind light, yet the water broke over +the bows and strained the brig considerably.</p> +<p>We then steered between Point Swan and two rocky islands lying +five miles from the shore over a space which, at our last visit, +appeared to be occupied by an extensive reef, but we were then +probably deceived by tide-ripplings.</p> +<p>It was my intention to have brought up under the lee of the +point, where Dampier describes his having anchored in twenty-nine +fathoms clear sandy ground; but upon rounding the projection, the +wind suddenly fell and, after a light squall from South-West we +had a dead calm; the depth was thirty fathoms coral bottom and +therefore not safe to anchor upon; this was unfortunate for the +sudden defection of the wind prevented our hauling into the bay +out of the tide, which was evidently running with considerable +rapidity and drifting us, without our having the means of +preventing it, towards a cluster of small rocks and islands +through which we could not discover any outlet, and which were so +crowded that in the dangerous predicament in which we found +ourselves placed they bore a truly awful and terrific appearance. +At this time I was at my usual post, the masthead, directing the +steerage of the vessel; but as the brig was drifting forward by a +rapid sluice of tide towards some low rocks, about a quarter of a +mile off, that were not more than two feet above the water's +edge, and upon which it appeared almost inevitable that we must +strike, I descended to the deck, under the certain conviction +that we could not escape the dangers that were strewed across our +path unless a breeze should spring up, of which there was not the +slightest appearance or probability.</p> +<p>Happily however the stream of the tide swept us past the rocks +without accident and, after carrying us about half a mile +farther, changed its direction to south-east and drifted us +towards a narrow strait separating two rocky islands, in the +centre of which was a large insulated rock that seemed to divide +the stream. The boat was now hoisted out and sent ahead to tow, +but we could not succeed in getting the vessel's head round. As +she approached the strait the channel became much narrower, and +several islands were passed at not more than thirty yards from +her course. The voices of natives were now heard and soon +afterwards some were seen on either side of the strait, hallooing +and waving their arms; we were so near to one party that they +might have thrown their spears on board; they had a dog with them +which Mr. Cunningham remarked to be black. By this time we were +flying past the shore with such velocity that it made us quite +giddy; and our situation was too awful to give us time to observe +the motions of the Indians; for we were entering the narrowest +part of the strait, and the next moment were close to the rock +which it appeared to be almost impossible to avoid; and it was +more than probable that the stream it divided would carry us +broadside upon it, when the consequences would have been truly +dreadful; the current, or sluice, was setting past the rock at +the rate of eight or nine knots, and the water being confined by +its intervention fell at least six or seven feet; at the moment, +however, when we were upon the point of being dashed to pieces, a +sudden breeze providentially sprung up and, filling our sails, +impelled the vessel forward for three or four yards: this was +enough, but only just sufficient, for the rudder was not more +than six yards from the rock. No sooner had we passed this +frightful danger than the breeze fell again and was succeeded by +a dead calm; the tide however continued to carry us on with a +gradually decreasing strength until one o'clock, when we felt +very little effect from it.</p> +<p>From the spot we had now reached the coast from Cape Leveque +appeared to trend to the southward but was not visible beyond the +bearing of South-West; there was however some land more to the +southward that had the appearance of being an island; it was +afterwards found to be a projection, forming the east head of a +bay, and was subsequently called after my friend Mr. Cunningham, +to whose indefatigable zeal the scientific world is considerably +indebted for the very extensive and valuable botanical collection +that has been formed upon this voyage.</p> +<p>We had a dead calm until high-water during which, as the brig +continued to drive with the tide to the southward in from twenty +to twenty-four fathoms, over a rocky bottom, I was undetermined +what course to pursue in order to preserve the situation which we +had so unexpectedly reached, and to prevent the ebb-tide from +carrying us back through the strait: the bare idea of this +impending danger reconciled me to determine upon sacrificing an +anchor, for, from the nature of the bottom, it seemed next to +impossible that we could recover it, if once dropped. Just, +however, as the tide was beginning to turn, a breeze sprang up +from the westward and at once put an end to our fears and +anxieties; all sail was made towards Point Cunningham beyond +which no land was visible; but the tide being adverse and the +evening near at hand, we anchored in the bight to the north-west +of the Point which bore South 32 1/2 degrees East seven miles and +a half.</p> +<p>February 9.</p> +<p>The next day I remained at the anchorage and despatched Mr. +Roe to examine the coast round Point Cunningham; Mr. Baskerville +in the meantime sounded about the bay between the brig and the +western shore and found very good anchorage in all parts: at +about one mile to the westward of our situation the bottom was of +mud, and the depth nine and ten fathoms: the land appeared a good +deal broken, like islands, but from the vessel the coast seemed +to be formed by a continuity of deep bays that may perhaps afford +good anchorage. On one of the sandy beaches at the back of the +bay near Park Hillock, so-called from its green appearance and +being studded with trees, eight or ten natives were observed +walking along the beach close to the low water mark, probably in +search of shell-fish; some of them were children, and perhaps the +others were women, except two or three who carried spears; a dog +was trotting along the beach behind them.</p> +<p>After dark, according to a preconcerted plan, port fires were +burnt every half hour for Mr. Roe's guidance, and before midnight +the boat came alongside. Mr. Roe informed me that there was good +anchorage round the point; and where he landed at Point +Cunningham there was plenty of fresh water; but he saw nothing +like land to the South-East; the coast trended from Point +Cunningham to the south, and was of low wooded sandy land. The +heat was excessive; the thermometer at noon, out of the influence +of the sun, stood at 120 degrees, and when they landed at Point +Cunningham Mr. Roe thought the heat was increased at least 10 +degrees. At this place he obtained an indifferent meridian +altitude which placed it in 16 degrees 40 minutes 18 seconds +South.</p> +<p>In the meantime Mr. Cunningham, who had accompanied him, +botanised with success. The traces of natives, dogs, +turtle-bones, and broken shells, were found strewed about; and +several fireplaces were noticed that had very recently been used; +a fresh-water stream was running down the rocks into the sea, and +at the back of the beach was a hollow, full of sweet water. Near +the fireplaces Mr. Roe picked up some stones that had been +chipped probably in the manufacture of their hatchets.</p> +<p>The soil was of a red-coloured earth of a very sandy nature; +and the rocks were two sorts of sandstone, one of a deep red +colour, the other whitish, and harder. After leaving Point +Cunningham they pulled round the rocks, which extended for some +distance off the point, and then entered a bay, all over which +they found good anchorage; a low distant point formed the south +extreme, but it was too late to reach it and at high-water they +landed at a bright red, cliffy point.</p> +<p>At half-past five o'clock they re-embarked on their return +and, although the tide was in their favour, were six hours before +they reached the vessel; from which Mr. Roe calculated the +distance to be nearly twenty miles, and by the survey +subsequently made it was found to be seventeen.</p> +<p>February 11.</p> +<p>We did not leave this anchorage until the 11th and then had +some difficulty in doing it, on account of the shoalness of the +water upon the sandbank that fronts the bay; indeed we were +obliged to anchor until the tide rose high enough to permit our +crossing it. At two o'clock we again got underweigh and crossed +the bank, when the wind falling calm we anchored with Point +Cunningham bearing South 17 degrees East three and a half +miles.</p> +<p>February 12.</p> +<p>The following morning I sent Mr. Roe to the point to take some +bearings; the boat left the brig at half-past three o'clock but +did not succeed in reaching the land before the sun rose; at +which time the horizon, from being clearer, would have presented +a more distinct view of distant objects. The group of islands to +the eastward was observed to extend no farther to the southward +than the bearing of North 88 degrees East, and beyond this was an +open, boundless sea. The station whence this bearing was taken +was on the north-west trend of the point.</p> +<p>On their first landing Mr. Roe and Mr. Baskerville, with one +of the boat's crew, ascended the summit and, whilst employed in +looking round, heard the voices of natives among the trees about +thirty yards off; but as they could not see them they very +properly descended, and carried on their operations in the +vicinity of the boat; they were onshore for two or three hours +afterwards, but the natives did not make their appearance. The +foot-marks of men and boys were evident on the sand below the +high-water mark, and the remains of fireplaces, and where the +natives had been manufacturing spears, were of recent date. The +gentlemen brought off a few shells and some insects, among which +was a beautiful sphynx; besides which one of the boat's crew +caught a species of vampyrus, apparently similar to the flying +fox of Port Jackson. Of shells there was not a great variety; a +chama (Tridacna gigas, Lam.) a pinna, and the trochus +(caerulescens) of Dirk Hartog's Island; but at one of the +fireplaces they found a very large voluta that seemed to have +served the purpose of a water-vessel; it was fifteen inches long +and ten inches in diameter.</p> +<p>The shores appear to abound with shellfish, although Dampier +thought that shells hereabouts were scarce. We could easily have +completed our water at this point, but from the place appearing +to be populous and, as the vessel could not be anchored +sufficiently near the shore to have protected the boat's crews, +it was feared that our work might be impeded by the natives.</p> +<p>The boat returned at ten o'clock while we were getting +underweigh; but the wind being at South-East it was one o'clock +before we weathered Point Cunningham, when the tide was urging us +forward rapidly. In steering round the point we found ourselves +passing through some light coloured water and, before we could +extricate the brig, were in three and a half fathoms; the anchor +was immediately dropped underfoot and, with the assistance of the +sails, which were kept full, the vessel was retained whilst the +whale-boat was veered astern, and ascertained that the shoalest +part had been already passed; therefore the anchor was again +weighed, and eventually dropped in the bay to the south of Point +Cunningham in fourteen fathoms and three quarters, fine speckled +sand and stones.</p> +<p>In the direction of North 63 degrees West and at a mile and a +half from the anchorage was a remarkable flat-topped hill which +was called at Mr. Cunningham's wish, Carlisle Head, and the bay +in which we anchored, Goodenough Bay, in compliment to the Right +Reverend the Lord Bishop of Carlisle. At this part Mr. Cunningham +found a new species of velleia (of the natural order +Goodenoviae).</p> +<p>We were now suffering much from the extreme heat and closeness +of the weather; the thermometer ranged night and day between 85 +and 89 degrees, and when the breeze was light or the weather calm +the air was insufferably hot and close, and affected us all very +much, but happily without any very serious consequences.</p> +<p>In the evening four natives armed with spears were seen +sitting in the shade upon the sandy beach under Carlisle Head, +attentively watching us; but upon being joined by three others, +who came towards them from Point Cunningham, got up and walked +away. We have yet to learn how far these people may be confided +in, for we were not at a very great distance from Hanover Bay +where we so nearly paid dear for trusting ourselves amongst them +unarmed.</p> +<p>February 13.</p> +<p>We remained at the anchorage in Goodenough Bay until the +following morning, when we weighed to a very light breeze from +south-east, the only direction from which we experienced any +wind; the breeze generally blew strong at night, whilst during +the day it was light, or nearly calm; so that during the night we +were very insecurely placed if the anchorage was at all +suspicious, and in the day were either delayed very much or +entirely prevented from weighing.</p> +<p>Thus it was with us on this day; soon after we weighed it fell +calm and the tide, drifting us rapidly to the southward over +rocky ground, carried us close to a reef of dry rocks to the +northward of Foul Point without our being able to avoid it. At a +little before five o'clock the flood-tide was nearly expended and +obliged us to drop the chain-cabled anchor at the distance of +three miles from Foul Point, upon a bottom of rotten +yellow-coloured rock that crumbled away upon being touched, but +from the noise that the chain made in dragging over the ground +there was reason to apprehend it was very rocky; and consequently +great fears were entertained for the safety of our anchor.</p> +<p>Our situation was in the outer part of a bay, the southern +head of which bore South 22 degrees East, and which, from the +loss and perplexity we met with in it, was afterwards called +Disaster Bay, and its south extreme, off which is a small rocky +island, was named Repulse Point.</p> +<p>During the afternoon we had another instance of mirage which +proved useful so far that it indicated to us the trend of the +land to the south-eastward, in which direction nothing had +previously been seen; it appeared to be very low and level, and +similar to the character of the coast on the southward of Cape +Leveque. At sunset when the haze cleared off and the appearance +of the land gradually sank below the horizon we were instantly +relieved from the oppressive heat we had experienced during the +day, for the thermometer had indicated a temperature of 91 +degrees and, when exposed to the influence of the sun, rose to +120 degrees.</p> +<p>Three natives were noticed as we passed along the shore; they +were walking upon a sandy beach abreast of us but very soon +disappeared among the trees and bushes which here grow close down +to the waterside; they were armed with spears and appeared to be +watching our movements; for they moved along in the direction of +our course and did not afterwards make their appearance during +the evening.</p> +<p>February 14.</p> +<p>The next morning whilst the ebb-tide lasted we had a light +breeze but, at noon, as the weather was calm and the brig could +not be got underweigh, either with safety or utility, the boats +were despatched in different directions to improve our knowledge +of the place.</p> +<p>At low water a considerable sandbank was exposed to our view, +that had not previously been seen; it fronts the bay and is dry +at low tide for some extent, it is also shoal some distance to +the northward, as our boat had only four feet in passing over it. +In the afternoon, as there was every appearance of fine weather +and no likelihood of a breeze, Mr. Baskerville and Mr. Cunningham +set off in a boat to visit Repulse Point, in order to make what +observations they could upon the further trend of the land; but +no sooner had they left the vessel than a breeze sprung up and +freshened to a gale in which our cable parted; and as there was +no chance of dropping another anchor with a prospect of +recovering it, we were obliged to return to our former anchorage +in Goodenough Bay; but, owing to the tide being contrary, the +brig did not reach it until nearly sunset. Our alarm and +anxieties were now raised to a great pitch for the safety of Mr. +Baskerville and his companions: signals of recall had been +hoisted and several guns fired before the cable parted, but the +boat was too far off to notice either: as soon as it was dark +signal guns were fired and port fires burnt every ten minutes to +guide its return.</p> +<p>Happily these signals at last had the desired effect, for at +ten o'clock the boat came alongside. Mr. Baskerville had failed +in reaching Repulse Point but obtained some useful information as +to the trend of the land round the point, which still appeared to +extend to the southward; they had not been able to land, but had +encountered much danger from the small size of the boat, which +shipped a great deal of water, so that by the time it arrived +they were completely drenched with the spray of the sea. They had +only observed our signals for a few minutes before their arrival; +for the flashes of the guns and the lights of the port-fires were +so confused with lightning and the fires of the natives on the +shore that they could not be distinguished from each other. Soon +after they arrived on board heavy rain commenced, and fell during +the greater part of the night.</p> +<p>February 15.</p> +<p>The ensuing day the weather was still squally and unsettled. +In the afternoon the launch and another boat were sent in search +of our lost anchor but returned at night without success; for the +tide was so strong that the buoy did not watch. The next morning +it was again intended to resume the search, but the weather +clouded in and threatened to be so bad that all further attempts +were abandoned.</p> +<p>This succession of bad weather, and our having only one anchor +left, made me feel the necessity of leaving this part, and giving +up for the present the examination of this interesting place; and +as we wanted both wood and water, which we had found no +opportunity of obtaining here on account of the tempestuous state +of the weather, it was purposed we should go to Port George the +Fourth, which place would afford both security for the vessel and +facility for procuring these articles. This delay might also be +made serviceable by employing a part of the crew at the same time +in the boats in examining the islands in Rogers Strait, and +tracing the continuation of the mainland behind the islands that +form the south-east coast of Camden Bay, of which we knew +nothing. After doing this I hoped to be able to continue the +examination of the deep bay behind Montgomery's Islands, and +connect that part with the gulf or strait behind the Buccaneer's +Archipelago in which we now were; but our loss of anchors made +all this very dangerous and, indeed, nothing could be done +without very fine weather, of which there was at present +unfortunately no appearance.</p> +<p>But a greater and more serious hindrance was that our +provisions were very much reduced in quantity, and that we had +not more than enough to last, upon a full allowance, for the +voyage to Port Jackson; the hope however of procuring more +information of this part of the coast was so inviting that I did +not despair of effecting something in a fortnight worth the +delay. We had dry provisions and water on board for about ten +weeks, so that with fine weather we could have retarded our +departure for ten or twelve days without much risk.</p> +<p>February 16.</p> +<p>Our quitting this place being determined upon we did not lose +any time; but from various delays of calm weather and adverse +tides could not succeed in getting out to sea until the 18th.</p> +<p>It was impossible to go out by the dangerous channel through +which we entered; but as Sunday Strait, through which the brig +had been drifted before we went to Mauritius, appeared free from +danger, we directed our course to it.</p> +<p>February 17.</p> +<p>And, after being underweigh all the night near its inner +entrance, during which we had once nearly struck on a reef of +rocks, found ourselves at daylight drifting through it with a +rapid ebb-tide without a breath of wind. The tide however lasted +long enough to carry us out, and when the flood commenced, which +would have drifted us back again, a fresh breeze sprang up from +the westward and very soon carried us clear of the influence of +the tide.</p> +<p>With respect to the opening we had now left there were many +conflicting opinions among us, but I have every reason to think +that the land from Cape Leveque to Point Gantheaume is an island +and that there is also a communication between Cygnet and +Collier's Bays, behind the islands of the Archipelago, where it +is also probable there is an opening trending to the south-east. +The great rise and fall of the tides in the neighbourhood of +Point Gantheaume gives a plausibility to this opinion; and the +only thing that I know against it is the trifling depth of the +water between that point and Cape Villaret. This however may be +caused by the numerous banks and channels existing there, and +which, of themselves alone, are indicative of the opening being +something more than a mere bay.</p> +<p>As sunset approached the eastern horizon was as usual in +commotion; heavy dense clouds were collected, from which we had +thunder and lightning. At seven o'clock the appearance was more +threatening and, as a squall was evidently approaching, the sails +were taken in and preparation made to meet it: soon after eight +o'clock it passed rapidly over and brought a strong gust of wind, +before which we were obliged to scud. After blowing most +tempestuously for an hour the wind moderated, and the night +passed without any repetition of it; we had however run five +miles to leeward: had we been obliged to do this last night when +underway in Cygnet Bay, or been drifted back this evening by the +ebb-tide, we should have been very dangerously placed, from being +surrounded by islands and blinded by the darkness of the night. +Whilst this squall lasted the barometer was in no way affected, +but the thermometer fell two degrees, having stood all the +afternoon at 89 3/4 degrees.</p> +<p>February 18.</p> +<p>During the remainder of the night we stood off and on and +experienced a current setting in the direction of North 52 +degrees West one mile per hour. At eight o'clock the next morning +(18th) Adele Island was seen; and in the afternoon we passed at a +mile and a half from the western side of the reef which surrounds +it. This island is low and sandy and covered with small bushes; +it is about two or three miles in length; a dry sand extends for +five miles from its south end, and as far as one mile from its +north-west point; but the covered part of the reef is more +extensive, and appeared rocky. At the distance of three miles and +a half, in a north-west direction from its north end, are two dry +sandbanks which are probably covered at high-water. +Light-coloured water extended for three miles to the westward and +for fourteen miles to the north-west; but the water is probably +deep enough over it for any vessel to pass: we steered over the +tail within the coloured water, but had no bottom with forty-five +fathoms. In many parts near the island the rocks must be very +little below the surface of the water, for the sea occasionally +broke upon them.</p> +<p>We then steered to the East and East-North-East and at night +made short trips on either tack. The weather was extremely sultry +during the afternoon, the thermometer being at 89 degrees, and +when exposed to the sun the mercury rose to 125 degrees. Towards +sunset large flights of boobies, terns, and other sea-birds +passed by, flying towards the islands. One or two stopped to +notice us and flew round the brig several times.</p> +<p>February 19.</p> +<p>The night was fine with light south-west winds; but we had +lightning in the North-East, from which quarter at daylight the +weather clouded in; and, from the increasing dampness of the +atmosphere, indicated rain.</p> +<p>At noon we were in 15 degrees 12 minutes 15 seconds South and +7 minutes 1 second east of the anchorage in Cygnet Bay. The wind +was from the southward with dull cloudy weather. Large flights of +birds were about the vessel, preying upon small fish swimming +among the seaweed, of which we passed a great quantity. As the +evening approached the weather clouded in and threatened us with +another squall from the eastward. The thermometer stood at 88 +degrees, and the barometer at 29.81 inches: half an hour before +sunset the clouds, which had collected in the eastern horizon, +began to thicken and approach us with loud thunder and vivid +lightning: all the sails, except the topsails which were lowered, +were furled just in time to avoid any bad effects from the +squall, which commenced with a strong gust from East-South-East +and East; it lasted about an hour, during the latter part of +which we had very heavy rain. At eight o'clock the wind fell to a +calm and was afterwards baffling and light from north to east and +south-east.</p> +<p>February 20.</p> +<p>At daylight (20th) the morning was dull and cloudy: a bank of +heavy threatening clouds, rising from the eastward, induced my +steering to the westward to await the issue of this weather, so +unfavourable for our doing any good upon the coast, as well as +increasing the danger of navigating among reefs and islands where +the tides were so strong. The next morning at daylight we had a +squall with rain and wind from the eastward after which a fresh +breeze set in from the same quarter: as this weather appeared +likely to last I very unwillingly determined upon leaving the +coast and returning immediately to Port Jackson.</p> +<p>February 21 to 24.</p> +<p>From the 21st until the 24th we had moderate winds between +north and south-east which gradually drew us out of the influence +of the damp, unwholesome weather we so lately experienced. Our +course was held to the northward of Rowley's Shoals which, upon +passing, we found a strong current setting towards them at the +rate of one mile an hour. This indraught increases the danger of +navigating near this part but I do not recollect having +experienced any when we passed them in June, 1818. The current, +therefore, that we felt, may be only of temporary duration, and +probably caused by the variable state of the wind.</p> +<p>1822. February 24 to March 3.</p> +<p>Between the 24th of February and the 3rd of March we had light +and variable winds from all directions but, being more frequent +from the eastward than from any other point of the compass, I +became reconciled to the step I had taken of leaving the coast, +since it would not have been possible to have reached Port George +the Fourth to effect any good.</p> +<p>The thermometer now ranged between 87 and 89 degrees and the +weather was consequently extremely oppressive and sultry.</p> +<p>March 3 to 11.</p> +<p>On the 3rd at noon we were in latitude 18 degrees 45 minutes +18 seconds and longitude 111 degrees 4 minutes 15 seconds when a +breeze sprang up from the South-east and carried us within the +influence of the trade, which blew steadily between +South-South-east and South by East and advanced us on our passage +but carried us considerably to the westward. On this course we +were accompanied by immense shoals of albicores (Scomber thynnus, +Linn.) but they were of small size; very few measured more than +twenty inches in length, and the average weight about ten pounds: +The meat was very good and tender and as a great number of the +fish were caught, proved a grateful relief to our salt diet. The +atmosphere was very damp and before the vessel entered the trade +we had lightning every night, but it ceased the moment that we +were within its limits. Tropic and other oceanic birds, some of a +dark brown colour, hovered about us and were our daily +companions, particularly the latter which preyed upon the small +fish that were pursued by the albicores.</p> +<p>March 11 to 14.</p> +<p>From the 11th to the 14th the trade ceased and the interval +was supplied by a northerly wind, veering round to west, which +enabled us to make up for the ground we had lost by its having +been so much from the southward. After this we had variable +breezes between South and East-South-East but the current, which +before had been setting us to the north-west, now set to the +north-east; this change was probably occasioned by the +south-westerly swell.</p> +<p>On the 14th we were in 27 degrees 49 minutes South, and 101 +degrees 1 minute East. Some tropic birds were seen this morning +but as yet neither albatrosses nor pintadoes had made their +appearance. During the short cessation of the trade the +atmosphere was very dry until the south-easterly winds returned, +when it became more humid; but as we approached the southern +limit of this South-East wind, which may be considered to bear +more of the character of a periodical wind than the trade, the +atmosphere became altogether drier; it carried us as far as 32 +degrees 40 minutes South and 96 degrees 42 minutes West before it +veered to the northward of east when, after a calm, we had +north-easterly winds and fine weather of which we made good +use.</p> +<p>The first albatross was seen in 31 1/4 degrees South and was +flying about the brig at the same time with a tropic bird, which +is a remarkable occurrence, for I never saw the latter bird +before so far without the tropic; but here was one nearly five +hundred miles to the southward of it, and at least three hundred +leagues from the nearest land; an albatross (Diomedea exulans, +Linn.) was shot, but did not measure more than nine feet nine +inches across the tips of the wings.</p> +<p>February 25.</p> +<p>On the 25th of February we examined our water and found the +casks so much damaged by rats that instead of having thirteen +tons we had only nine on board, but as this was thought to be +sufficient for our voyage the daily issue was not reduced.</p> +<p>March 28.</p> +<p>On the 28th of March however it was found necessary to make a +considerable reduction in the allowance.</p> +<p>April 13.</p> +<p>On the 13th of April the north-west end of Van Diemen's Land +came in sight but it was not until the 15th that we entered Bass +Strait by the passage between King's and Hunter's Islands. Off +Cape Howe we boarded a trading brig belonging to Port Jackson +bound to Van Diemen's Land, from which we obtained pleasing and +satisfactory news of our friends at Sydney, as also the +gratifying intelligence of the promotion of myself to the rank of +commander, and of Messrs. Bedwell and Roe to that of lieutenant. +The promotion of the latter gentleman was under circumstances of +the most flattering nature, and here not only offers a most +satisfactory proof of the approbation bestowed by the Lords +Commissioners of the Admiralty upon my zealous assistant, but +precludes me from the otherwise pleasing task of giving my humble +testimonial of his conduct and merits.</p> +<p>Between Cape Howe and Port Jackson we experienced much bad +weather, which delayed our arrival so long that we had expended +all our bread and were reduced to a very small proportion of +water:</p> +<p>April 25.</p> +<p>We however succeeded in effecting our arrival at Sydney by the +25th, after an absence of 344 days.</p> +<p><a name="chapter05"></a></p> +<h3>CHAPTER 5.</h3> +<blockquote>The Bathurst sails for England.<br> +Remarks upon some errors in the hydrography of the south coast of +Van Diemen's Land.<br> +King George the Third's Sound.<br> +Passage to the Cape of Good Hope.<br> +Cross the Atlantic, and arrive at Plymouth Sound.<br> +Observations upon the voyages, and conclusion.</blockquote> +<p>1822. April 25 to September 25.</p> +<p>Upon an examination of the brig's defects after our arrival at +Port Jackson her stern and cut-water were found so defective as +to require a considerable repair; but from the difficulty of +procuring seasoned wood, so long a time elapsed before it was +effected that we were not ready for sea until the beginning of +September, when other delays of minor importance detained us +until the 25th.</p> +<p>At Port Jackson I found orders from the Lords Commissioners of +the Admiralty to return to England in the Bathurst when the +survey should be completed; but as we were in want of many things +that the colony could not furnish, and as we should be detained +until the month of February before the monsoon would allow of our +going upon the coast; it was deemed most advantageous for the +public service to return without making another voyage. +Accordingly on the 25th September we sailed from Sydney with the +intention of proceeding to the north through Torres Strait, and +calling at the Mauritius on our way; but no sooner had we put to +sea than a hard gale set in from the north which induced me to +bear up and either to go round Van Diemen's Land to the westward, +if the wind should favour such a proceeding, or, by doubling the +south end of New Zealand to make the eastern passage round Cape +Horn.</p> +<p>1822. October 6.</p> +<p>Having reached the south-east end of Van Diemen's Land on the +6th of October, and a fresh north-easterly wind setting in at the +same time, I determined upon adopting the first plan; and +therefore proceeded round the south side of the island, in doing +which I had the opportunity of verifying some observations +formerly taken by which it appeared that the coast between Storm +Bay and the South-west Cape was very erroneously laid down both +by Captain Flinders and the French expeditions under +d'Entrecasteaux and Baudin.</p> +<p>On my voyage to Macquarie Harbour in 1819 I found so many +errors in the bearings that were taken as induced me to suspect +an original error, and on this occasion a very considerable one +was detected.</p> +<p>When Captain Flinders passed round Van Diemen's Land in the +Norfolk he obtained a meridional supplementary altitude of the +sun to the south, his vessel being under the land, which made the +South-west Cape in 43 degrees 29 minutes South; but finding the +next day that his instrument was 2 minutes 40 seconds in error to +the north he assigned to the cape a position of 43 degrees 32 +minutes. In the Introduction to his voyage* he makes some remarks +in a note upon the positions assigned to it by Captains Cook and +Furneaux; the latter officer placed it in 43 degrees 39 minutes, +in which I also found it to be by its transient bearing from the +South Cape. By a series of bearings carried along the coast its +position is thirty-three miles West 3 degrees South true, from +the South Cape.</p> +<blockquote>(*Footnote. Flinders volume 1 Introduction page +179.)</blockquote> +<p>All parts of the coast in this interval are proportionally in +error as to latitude but tolerably well placed in reference to +the coast. The subjoined are the positions now assigned to the +following places, namely:</p> +<p><b>COLUMN 1: NAME OF PLACE.<br> +COLUMN 2: LATITUDE.<br> +COLUMN 3: LONGITUDE ACCORDING TO CAPTAIN FLINDERS' +SURVEY.</b></p> +<p>South Cape : 43 degrees 38 minutes : 146 degrees 56 +minutes.<br> +Mewstone : 43 degrees 46 minutes : 146 degrees 31 1/2 +minutes.<br> +South-west Cape : 43 degrees 39 minutes : 146 degrees 12 +minutes.</p> +The south-east cape of Bruny Island, Tasman's Head, is also +placed too much to the southward in Captain Flinders' chart as +well as in that of Baudin. From the Mermaid it was set in a line +with the south-east cape on the bearing of North 56 degrees East +(the vessel's head being to the eastward); and on this occasion +(the brig's head being to the westward) it bore, when in the same +line, North 53 degrees East. The variation in the latter case was +9 degrees East, but in the former no more than 6 degrees was +allowed, and Captain Flinders found even 4 degrees sufficient. +<p>I passed outside the Mewstone and took its bearing as it came +on with the points of the land between the south-west and the +south-east capes, by which I satisfied myself beyond a doubt of +the correctness of my observations and of the error into which +Captain Flinders had fallen, and which must either be attributed +to the imperfection of his instrument or to his reading off the +altitude 10 minutes in error; and as there is just that +difference between it and the position assigned by Captain +Furneaux, which is also confirmed by my observation, the +probability is in favour of the last conjecture.</p> +<p>After leaving the coast of Van Diemen's Land we had much damp, +unwholesome weather, and a succession of heavy westerly gales, in +which the brig was occasionally much pressed.</p> +<p>1822. November 8-31.</p> +<p>And it was not until the 8th of November that we made Bald +Island, which is to the eastward of King George's Sound. We were +now much in need of a place to caulk the bends, as well as to +repair some temporary damage to the rigging and complete our wood +and water. I therefore seized the opportunity of our being near +the sound and, steering into it, anchored off the sandy bay +within Seal Island and immediately commenced operations. We were +however much delayed by hard westerly gales, which not only +prevented the carpenter's caulking, but also delayed our +watering, since the boat could not pull to the shore; but as the +anchorage was well sheltered we suffered no further inconvenience +than the delay.</p> +<p>A few days after our arrival we were surprised by the +appearance of a strange vessel beating into the sound; she proved +to be an American schooner on a sealing voyage and was coming in +for the purpose of careening and cleaning the vessel's bottom in +Oyster Harbour. The natives also made their appearance and some +of them being our old friends, immediately recognised us.</p> +<p>As there was no wood convenient to our anchorage I moved the +vessel to the entrance of Princess Royal Harbour, near the +northern head of which, at the south end of the long sandy beach, +the trees were growing in abundance close to the beach: it was at +this place also that Captain Flinders obtained his wood; and +excepting the entrance of Oyster Harbour it is the most +convenient place in the whole sound.</p> +<p>Whilst at this last anchorage we were visited by the natives, +many of them strangers; they were accompanied by our old friend +Coolbun, the native that, upon our former visit, was so noisy in +explaining to his companions the effect of the shot that was +fired. On one occasion, when they were on board, an immense shark +was hooked, but broke the hook and escaped, which was a great +disappointment to them, for they evidently anticipated a +luxurious meal. After this they went on shore, when the breeze +blew so fresh as to make some seasick, very much to the amusement +of those who did not suffer, particularly one of the older men. +On this occasion the names of several of the natives were +obtained, which have been inserted with a few additional words at +the end of the list obtained from them during our former visit.* +Our friend Jack did not make his appearance, nor did the natives +at all seem to understand for whom we were enquiring.</p> +<blockquote>(*Footnote. See above.)</blockquote> +<p>As soon as our wood was completed the brig was moved to an +anchorage off the watering bay which proved a more convenient +place than under Seal Island, as it was better sheltered and +nearer to the watering-place. After riding out a heavy gale from +the westward at single anchor without any accident and as soon as +our water was completed, we again anchored for a day under Seal +Island, but were obliged to make two attempts before we succeeded +in getting out to sea.</p> +<p>Whilst at the anchorage off Princess Royal Harbour I went to +Oyster Harbour to procure flowering specimens of a tree which had +hitherto been a subject of much curiosity to botanists: at our +former visits the season was too far advanced; and Mr. Brown was +equally unfortunate. The plant resembles xanthorrhoea, both in +its trunk and leaves, but bears its flower in a very different +manner; for, instead of throwing out one long flower scape, it +produces eighteen or twenty short stalks, each terminated by an +oval head of flowers. I recollected having seen a large grove of +these trees growing at a short distance from the outer beach on +the east side of the entrance of the harbour; and on going there +found the decayed flowers and seeds sufficiently perfect to throw +a considerable light upon this singular plant;* several were +procured and brought to England. A drawing of this tree is given +in the view of King George's Sound in Captain Flinders' account +of the Investigator's voyage.** In the list of the plants +collected by me upon this occasion was a splendid species of +anigosanthus, which proved to be quite new, and had escaped the +observation both of Mr. Brown and of Mr. Cunningham. Living +plants of various genera were also procured: among which were +several of the remarkable Cephalotus follicularis (Brown) which +however alone survived the voyage, and are now growing in the +royal gardens at Kew.</p> +<blockquote>(*Footnote. More perfect specimens were afterwards +collected by Mr. Baxter, and sent, through Mr. Henchman his +employer, to my friend Mr. Brown, the original discoverer of the +tree in Captain Flinders' voyage, and the author of the paper in +the appendix at the end of the volume relating to +it.)</blockquote> +<blockquote>(**Footnote. Flinders volume 1 page 60.)</blockquote> +<p>December 1 to February 9, 1823.</p> +<p>Having effected our departure from King George's Sound we +proceeded on our way towards Simon's Bay at the Cape of Good +Hope, which we reached on the 14th January after a passage of +forty-six days without encountering a gale of wind or the +occurrence of any event worth recording.</p> +<p>February 9 to April 23.</p> +<p>We left Simon's Bay on the 9th of February and, after touching +at St. Helena and Ascension, crossed the line in 22 degrees 6 +minutes West; and on the 7th of April made the Island of Flores, +one of the Azores. On the same morning we fell in with two French +men of war, a frigate and a corvette, who bore down but, upon +showing our colours, hauled their wind and resumed their course +without communicating with us. Between this and the Channel we +were delayed by a succession of northerly winds. The Lizard +Lights were made in the night of the 22nd of April and the +following day we anchored in Plymouth Sound; after an absence of +more than six years.</p> +<p>It may not be considered irrelevant here to make a few brief +observations upon what has been effected by these voyages, and +what yet remains to be done upon the northern coasts of +Australia. Beginning with the north-eastern coast, I have been +enabled to lay down a very safe and convenient track for vessels +bound through Torres Strait, and to delineate the coastline +between Cape Hillsborough, in 20 degrees 54 minutes South, and +Cape York, the north extremity of New South Wales; a distance of +six hundred and ninety miles. As my instructions did not +authorise my delaying to examine any part of this coast I could +not penetrate into the many numerous and extensive openings that +presented themselves in this space; particularly in the +neighbourhoods of Cape Gloucester, Upstart, and Cleveland; where +the intersected and broken appearances of the hills at the back +are matters of interesting enquiry and research.</p> +<p>My instructions at first confined me between Cape Arnhem and +the North-west Cape, but were subsequently extended to the +western coast. The examination of the northern and part of the +north-western coasts, from Wessel Islands to Port George the +Fourth, a distance of seven hundred and ninety miles, has been +carefully made and, with a few exceptions, every opening has been +explored. Those parts in this interval that yet require +examination are some inlets on the south side of Clarence Strait, +and one of more considerable size to the eastward of Cambridge +Gulf, trending in to the south-east: otherways, the coast +comprised within these limits has been sufficiently examined for +all the purposes of navigation.</p> +<p>The coast also between the North-west Cape and Depuch Island, +containing two hundred and twenty miles, has also been +sufficiently explored; but between the latter island and Port +George the Fourth, a distance of five hundred and ten miles, it +yet remains almost unknown. The land that is laid down is nothing +more than an archipelago of islands fronting the mainland, the +situation of which is quite uncertain. Our examinations of these +islands were carried on as far as Cape Villaret, but between that +and Depuch Island the coast has only been seen by the French, who +merely occasionally saw small detached portions of it. At present +however this is conjecture; but the space is of considerable +extent and, if there is an opening into the interior of New +Holland, it is in the vicinity of this part. Off the Buccaneer's +Archipelago the tides are strong and rise to the height of +thirty-six feet. Whatever may exist behind these islands, which +we were prevented by our poverty in anchors and other +circumstances from exploring, there are certainly some openings +of importance; and it is not at all improbable that there may be +a communication at this part with the interior for a considerable +distance from the coast.</p> +<p>The examination of the western coast was performed during an +almost continued gale of wind, so that we had no opportunity of +making any very careful observation upon its shores. There can +however be very little more worth knowing of them, as I apprehend +the difficulty of landing is too great ever to expect to gain +much information; for it is only in Shark's Bay that a vessel can +anchor with safety.</p> +<p>With respect to the subjects of natural history that have been +procured upon the voyage, it is much to be lamented that the +small size of the vessel and our constant professional duties +prevented my extending them. Of quadrupeds we saw but few. Birds +were very numerous but the operation of skinning and preserving +them would have taken up more time than could be afforded. A few +insects, some shells, and a small series of specimens of the +geology of the parts we landed at were among the only things +obtained, excepting the extensive and valuable collection of +plants formed by Mr. Cunningham which are now in the possession +of Mr. Aiton, of the Royal Gardens at Kew; for which +establishment it would seem that they were solely procured. It +was in fact the only department of natural history in which any +pains were taken and for which every assistance was rendered. A +small herbarium was however collected by me, containing nearly +five hundred species: they are in the possession of my respected +friend Aylmer B. Lambert, Esquire, whose scientific attainments +in the field of botany are well and widely known. It is to be +hoped however that the few subjects offered to the scientific +world in the appendix, through the kindness of my friends, will +not be thought uninteresting or unimportant; and that they will +serve to show how very desirable it is to increase the +comparatively slender knowledge that we possess of this extensive +country, which in this respect might still with propriety retain +its ancient name of Terra Australis INCOGNITA.</p> +<p>Whilst this sheet was going through the press accounts were +received at the Admiralty from Captain J.G. Bremer, C.B. of H.M. +Ship Tamar who was despatched by the government in the early part +of last year (1824) to take possession of Arnhem's Land, upon the +north coast of the continent, and to form an establishment upon +the most eligible spot that could be found for a mercantile +depot. Of the proceedings of this expedition the following +particulars have been communicated to me by Lieutenant J.S. Roe, +my former companion and assistant, who was appointed lieutenant +of the Tamar upon her being destined for that service; and which, +as the sequel of the voyage I have been describing, cannot be +deemed irrelevant or uninteresting, since the place fixed upon by +Captain Bremer was discovered during the early part of the said +voyage.*</p> +<blockquote>(*Footnote. See volume 1.)</blockquote> +<p>The Tamar arrived at Port Jackson on the 28th of July, 1824; +when every facility was rendered by the colonial government to +further the object in view. The expedition sailed thence in less +than a month with a detachment of the 3rd regiment and forty-five +convicts, in addition to the party of Royal Marines that had been +embarked before the Tamar left England. The establishment was +placed under the command of Captain Barlow of the 3rd regiment. A +merchant ship, the Countess of Harcourt, was taken up to convey +the stores and provisions, and the Lady Nelson, colonial brig, +was also placed at the disposal of the commandant.</p> +<p>Lieutenant Roe, in describing this voyage to me, writes: "We +had a very favourable passage to the northward, and in less than +three weeks cleared Torres Strait by the route you recommended to +Captain Bremer, without encountering any accident. We +nevertheless saw several shoals that, in our former voyages in +the Mermaid and Bathurst, were not noticed; by reason of the +greater altitude of the Tamar's masthead affording a much more +extensive view on either side of our course." The particulars of +these discoveries of Lieutenant Roe are given in the Appendix, +under the description of the North-East Coast, in the order in +which they occur.</p> +<p>Having cleared Torres Strait the Tamar anchored in Port +Essington. Lieutenant Roe then says, "Having brought the ship to +anchor off Table Point in Port Essington, all the boats were +hoisted out and the marines landed, when, an union-jack being +fixed upon a conspicuous tree near the extremity of the point, +formal possession was taken of the north coast of Australia, +between the meridians of 129 and 136 degrees East of Greenwich. +The marines fired three volleys, and the Tamar a royal salute, +upon the occasion.</p> +<p>"Our first object being to find water, parties were despatched +in various directions for that purpose; but after traversing many +miles of country, and coasting a great deal of the port, only one +place was discovered (the low sandy east point of entrance to +Inner Harbour) where any was to be procured, and it was then only +obtained by digging deep holes in the sand. A large Malay +encampment had recently removed from this spot, leaving their +fireplaces and temporary couches, and large piles of firewood to +season, in readiness for their next visit. No natives were seen, +not even at our old place in Knockers Bay. The adjoining country +was found to be very good forest land, well timbered, but parched +with drought, which was by no means in favour of our views. +Having buried a sealed bottle upon the sandy point, containing an +account of our proceedings, we named it Point Record,* and sailed +at the expiration of two days for Apsley Strait.</p> +<blockquote>(*Footnote. Point Record is the low sandy point on +the left of the picture in the view of Port Essington, volume +1.)</blockquote> +<p>"Light winds retarded our arrival off Cape Van Diemen until +the 24th, and it was not before the 26th that we brought up close +to Luxmoore Head, in St. Asaph Bay. Possession was here taken in +a similar manner and with the same forms as at Port Essington, +and we commenced a strict search for water in every direction in +the neighbourhood of the head, which appeared so desirable and +commanding a position, that it was with great reluctance we +eventually gave up all idea of settling there, on not finding +fresh water in its neighbourhood.</p> +<p>"At the expiration of five or six days a small river and +plenty of water was discovered on Melville Island abreast of +Harris Island; and an eligible situation for the intended new +settlement being discovered near it, the ships were removed +thither on the 2nd of October, and parties landed to commence +immediate operations with the axe and saw. The projection of land +fixed upon for the site of a town, was named after the commandant +(Captain Barlow). The cove in which the ships were at anchor was +named King's Cove by Captain Bremer, after yourself, as the +original discoverer of the strait; and that part of Apsley +Strait, between Luxmoore Head and Harris Island,* received the +name of Port Cockburn, in honour of Vice Admiral Sir George +Cockburn, G.C.B., one of the Lords of the Admiralty.</p> +<blockquote>(*Footnote. Harris Island was named by me after my +friend John Harris, Esquire, formerly surgeon of the 102nd +Regiment, who has served so long and so faithfully in various +offices under the government of New South Wales.)</blockquote> +<center> +<p><a name="king2-09"></a><img alt="" src="images/king2-09.jpg"></p> +<p><b>VIEW OF FORT DUNDAS, TAKEN FROM GARDEN POINT.<br> +CHART OF PORT COCKBURN AT MELVILLE ISLAND.<br> +Plan of Port Cockburn, between Bathurst and Melville Islands.<br> +From a survey made by Lieutenant J.S. ROE in October 1824.<br> +PLAN OF KING'S COVE.</b></p> +</center> +<p> </p> +<p>"All disposable hands being employed on shore in clearing +Point Barlow of wood and other impediments, we were speedily +enabled to commence the erection of a fort, seventy-five yards in +length by fifty wide; to be built of the trunks of the felled +trees, and to be surrounded by a ditch ten feet wide and deep. On +the memorable 21st of October, our quarter-deck guns were landed +and mounted, the colours were hoisted for the first time, and the +work was named Fort Dundas, under a royal salute from itself.</p> +<p>"From this time the place began to assume the appearance of a +fortified village; quarters were constructed within the walls of +the fort for the accommodation of the officers belonging to the +establishment, and about thirty huts of various kinds were +erected, and thatched with rushes for the soldiers and convicts. +A deep well was sunk near the fort; a good substantial wharf ran +out into the water; and, as soon as a commissariat storehouse was +finished, all the provisions were landed from the Countess of +Harcourt and secured there.</p> +<p>"The soil in the neighbourhood of the settlement being +exceedingly good, gardens were cleared and laid out, and soon +produced all kinds of vegetables. In our stock we were rather +unfortunate, for of six sheep that were landed for the purpose of +breeding, five died, supposed from the effect produced by eating +some pernicious herb in the woods: pigs, ducks, and fowls seemed +however in a fair way of doing well, and had increased +considerably since they were landed; but great inconvenience was +experienced for want of some horses or draught oxen, which would +not only have materially expedited the work in hand, but would +have spared the men much laborious fatigue and exposure to the +effects of a vertical sun: all difficulties and obstacles were +however met and overcome with the greatest zeal and perseverance, +and the works proceeded with such spirit and alacrity, that we +were enabled to sail for Bombay on the 13th of November, without +exposing the new settlement either to the jealousy of the Malays, +or the mischievous attack of the natives. No traces of the former +people were observed at this place, nor any of the trepang that +would be their sole inducement for visiting it. Not one native +made his appearance before the early part of November when, as if +by signal, a party of about eighteen on each shore communicated +with us on the same day and were very friendly, although +exceedingly suspicious and timid. They would not venture within +the line of the outer hut and always came armed, but laid aside +their spears and clubs whenever friendly signs were made. On the +second day of their visit I was greatly astonished to see amongst +them a young man of about twenty years of age, not darker in +colour than a Chinese but with perfect Malay features and like +all the rest entirely naked: he had daubed himself all over with +soot and grease, to appear like the others, but the difference +was plainly perceptible. On perceiving that he was the object of +our conversation, a certain archness and lively expression came +over his countenance, which a native Australian would have +strained his features in vain to have produced. The natives +appeared to be very fond of him. It seems probable that he must +have been kidnapped when very young, or found while astray in the +woods.*</p> +<blockquote>(*Footnote. At our visit to this place in 1818 and +during our communication with the natives a boy of the above +description was noticed among them; he was brought down upon the +shoulders of one of the Indians, in which position he is +represented in the view. See volume 1.)</blockquote> +<p>"These Indians made repeated signs for hatchets, which they +called paaco-paaco, and although they had stolen two or three on +their first appearance, it was considered desirable to gain their +goodwill by giving them more, and three were accordingly +presented to individuals among them who appeared to be in +authority. They were of course much pleased, but the next day +several axes, knives, and sickles were taken by force from men +employed outside the settlement, upon which they were made to +understand that until these articles were restored no more would +be given. This arrangement being persevered in by us, they +determined upon seizing these implements on every occasion that +presented itself; so that it was found necessary to protect our +working parties in the woods by a guard; the result of which was +that the natives threw their spears whenever resistance was +offered, and the guard was obliged to fire upon the +aggressors.</p> +<p>"Open acts of hostility having now been committed, and the +natives increasing daily in numbers to upwards of one hundred +round the settlement, a good lookout was kept upon them; but not +sufficiently to prevent about sixty of them surprising five of +the marines in a swamp cutting rushes, and throwing their spears +amongst them: their salute was immediately returned, and they +disappeared without any damage having been done on either side; +at the same minute however reports of musketry were heard at our +watering-place and garden and proved to be in repelling an attack +that about forty natives had made upon our jolly-boat watering +and two men cutting grass. One of the natives was shot dead at +ten yards' distance while in the act of throwing his spear; and +our people thought that several others were wounded as they +disappeared making most strange noises, and have not been near us +since. One of the spears thrown upon the last occasion had +sixteen barbs to it but, in general, they were merely scraped to +a sharp point without even one barb, and were not thrown with +anything like precision or good aim, which accounts for none of +their weapons having taken effect, although discharged at our +people at the distance only of a few yards."</p> +<p>Soon after this the Tamar left Fort Dundas for the India +station and despatched the Countess of Harcourt upon her ulterior +destination. The settlement was left in a very forward state and +consisted altogether of one hundred and twenty-six individuals of +whom there were 3 or 4 women and forty-five convicts; the +remainder were composed of detachments of the 3rd regiment (the +Buffs) and of the marines, the latter under the command of +Lieutenant Williamson. The Lady Nelson was left with Commandant +Barlow.</p> +<p>Such is the state of the settlement of Fort Dundas, which at +some future time must become a place of considerable consequence +in the eastern world. The soil and climate of Melville and +Bathurst Islands are capable of growing all the valuable +productions of the East, particularly spices, and many other +equally important articles of trade: it is conveniently placed +for the protection of ships passing to our Indian possessions +from Port Jackson, and admirably situated for the purposes of +mercantile speculation.</p> +<p>Such, then, are the first fruits of the voyages I have had the +honour to direct. Much, however, of the coast yet remains to be +examined; and although, for the general purposes of navigation, +it has been quite sufficiently explored, yet there are many +spaces upon the chart left blank that would be highly interesting +to examine and really important to know. We have but a slight +knowledge also of the natural history of the continent; slight +however as it is, no country has ever produced a more +extraordinary assemblage of indigenous productions; no country +has proved richer than Australia in every branch of natural +history; and it has besides, this advantage, that as the greater +part is yet entirely unknown, so much the more does it excite the +interest of the geographer and naturalist.</p> +<p>The examination of its vast interior can only be performed by +degrees: want of navigable rivers will naturally impede such a +task, but all these difficulties will be gradually overcome by +the indefatigable zeal of our countrymen, of whose researches in +all parts of the world the present times teem with such numerous +examples.</p> +<p><a name="appendixA"></a></p> +<h3>APPENDIX A.</h3> +<p>Previously to entering into the detail of the following +coast-directions, in which it has been attempted, for the sake of +a more easy reference, to collect all the nautical information +under one general head, it may be proper to premise that Captain +Flinders, in the account of his voyage,* has given two very +useful chapters upon the winds and weather that may be +experienced upon the various coasts of this continent; as well as +information respecting its general navigation and particular +sailing-directions for the outer passage from Port Jackson +through Torres Strait, by entering the reefs at Murray Island. +From these chapters Captain Horsburgh has arranged, in his +valuable work on the Hydrography etc. of the Indian Ocean, a set +of sailing-directions and other nautical information** that will +be found useful for the navigation of the southern and eastern +coasts of this continent.</p> +<blockquote>(*Footnote. Volume 1 book 1 chapter 11 and volume 2 +book 2 chapter 11.)</blockquote> +<blockquote>(**Footnote. Horsburgh's Indian Directory volume 2 +pages 493 and 515.)</blockquote> +<hr align="center" width="20%"> +<h4>APPENDIX A. SECTION 1.</h4> +<p align="center">OF THE WINDS AND CURRENTS, AND DESCRIPTION OF +THE PORTS, ISLANDS, AND COAST BETWEEN PORT JACKSON AND BREAKSEA +SPIT.</p> +<p>EAST COAST.</p> +<p>The south-east trade cannot be said to blow home upon that +part of the coast of New South Wales, which lies between Breaksea +Spit and Port Jackson, except during the summer months when winds +from that quarter prevail and often blow very hard; they are then +accompanied by heavy rains and very thick weather: generally +however from October to April they assume the character of a +sea-breeze and, excepting during their suspension by +south-easterly or westerly gales, are very regular. In the month +of December strong south-easterly gales are not uncommon; and in +February and March they are very frequent.</p> +<p>In the month of December hot winds from the north-west will +sometimes last for two or three days, and are almost always +suddenly terminated by a gust of wind from the southward. The +most prevailing winds, during all seasons, are from the south, +and are probably oftener from the eastward of that point than +from the westward. The current always sets to the southward, and +has been found by us on several occasions to set the strongest +during a South-East gale. The general course of the current is in +the direction of the coast, but this is not constant; for, +between Port Stevens and to the southward of Port Jackson, it +sometimes sets in towards it. In a gale from the South-East in +the month of December 1820, it must have been setting as much to +the westward as South-West. This should be attended to, +particularly in south-easterly gales, and an offing preserved to +provide against the wind's veering to East-South-East and East by +South, which is often the case; and then the current, setting +upon the weather-bow, will place the vessel, in a dark night, in +considerable danger. The rate of the current is generally about +one mile per hour, but it sometimes though rarely runs at the +rate of nearly three knots.</p> +<p>To the eastward in the space between New South Wales and New +Caledonia the current sets to the North-West, which carries a +great body of water into the bight between the former and New +Guinea; but as Torres Strait offers but a very inconsiderable +outlet the stream is turned, and sets to the southward until it +gradually joins the easterly current which, from the prevalence +of westerly winds, is constantly running between Van Diemen's +Land and Cape Horn.</p> +<p>The tides in this interval are of little consequence and in +few places rise higher than six feet at the springs, excepting +where they are affected by local circumstances.</p> +<p>There are but few places of shelter upon the east coast +between Port Jackson and Breaksea Spit: Captain Flinders points +out Broken Bay, Port Hunter for small craft, Port Stephens, Shoal +Bay for vessels not exceeding fifty tons, and Glass House +(Moreton) Bay. There are however other anchorages that might be +resorted to in the event of being thrown upon a lee shore, which +are equally good with Port Hunter, Shoal Bay, and Glass House +Bay.</p> +<p>There is an anchorage behind Black Head to the north of Point +Stevens which Lieutenant Oxley discovered to be an island; Port +Macquarie also affords shelter for small vessels; and on the +north side of Smoky Cape there is good shelter from southerly or +south-easterly winds: but the whole of these, excepting Broken +Bay, are only attainable by small vessels. A large ship must keep +an offing; and as the coast is not at all indented the wind must +blow very hard, and the ship sail very badly, to be placed in +danger. Wide Bay however is a very good port, and affords a safe +and secure shelter; the anchorage being protected by a reef which +fronts it.</p> +<p>PORT JACKSON.</p> +<p>The Lighthouse, or Macquarie Tower, is in latitude 33 degrees +51 minutes 11 seconds South and longitude 4 minutes 29.8 seconds +east of Sir Thomas Brisbane's Observatory at Sydney, or 151 +degrees 19 minutes 45 seconds East of Greenwich. It is a +revolving light and may be seen at the distance of ten leagues. +The Inner South Head bears from it North 20 degrees West* and is +distant about two thousand five hundred yards. The North Head +bears from the Inner South Head North 53 degrees East by compass, +about two thousand four hundred and forty yards; and the +narrowest part of the entrance, which is between the Inner North +and South Heads, is a little more than eight hundred yards, so +that there is abundance of room to work in should the wind blow +out of the Port. On arriving off the lighthouse, steer in between +the North and South Heads until you are past the line of bearing +of the Outer North, and the Inner South Heads: then haul round +the latter, but avoid a reef of rocks that extends for two +hundred yards off the point, and steer for Middle Head, a +projecting cliff at the bottom of the bay, until the harbour +opens round the Inner South Head; you may then pass on either +side of the Sow and Pigs; but the eastern channel, although the +narrowest, is perhaps the best; but this, in a great measure, +depends upon the direction of the wind. The eastern channel is +the deepest. The Sow and Pigs, or Middle Ground, is the only +danger in Port Jackson: it is a bank of sand and rocks, of about +eight hundred yards in length, by about three hundred and fifty +in breadth: its length being in the direction of the harbour; a +very small portion of it is dry, and consists of a few rocks, +upon which the sea almost always breaks; they are situated upon +the outer end of the shoal, and are in the line of bearing of the +Outer North and the Inner South Heads. The south-western tail of +the bank is chiefly of sand, with rocks scattered about it; but, +on the greater portion of it, there is twelve feet water; it +gradually deepens to three and a quarter fathoms, which is beyond +the rocky limits of the shoal. To sail through the Western +Channel, which is from one-third to half a mile wide, steer +towards George's Head, a high rocky head, about three quarters of +a mile above Middle Head, keeping it in sight upon the larboard +bow, and the sea horizon open between the points of entrance, +until you are within the line of bearing between a small sandy +beach on the western shore and Green Point; the latter is a +grassy mound, the south head of Camp Cove. Then steer for +George's Head, and gradually round it: when you have passed the +line of bearing between it and Green Point, and opened the sandy +beach of Watson's Bay, steer boldly up the harbour. In rounding +Point Bradley, there is a rocky shelf that runs off the point for +perhaps one hundred yards. Pass on either side of Pinch-gut +Island, and, in hauling into Sydney Cove, avoid a rocky reef that +extends off Point Bennelong for rather more than two hundred +yards into the sea.</p> +<p>To sail through the Eastern Channel, or to the eastward of the +Sow and Pigs, haul round the Inner South Head until the summit of +the Inner North Head is in a line with the inner trend of the +former, bearing by compass North 23 1/2 degrees East; then steer +South-South-West until you have passed Green Point, when the +course may be directed at pleasure up the harbour.</p> +<p>In turning to windward, go no nearer to the Sow and Pigs than +three and a quarter fathoms, unless your vessel is small; nor +within two hundred yards of the shore, for although it is bold in +most parts close to, yet there are some few straggling rocks off +the south point of Watson's Bay, and also some round Shark's +Island. There is good anchorage in all parts of the harbour, when +within Middle and the South Heads. There is also anchorage in +North Harbour, but not to be recommended, for the swell sometimes +rolls into the mouth of the harbour; no swell can, however, +affect the anchorage between Middle Head and the Sow and +Pigs.</p> +<p>SYDNEY COVE is nearly half a mile deep, and four hundred yards +wide, and will contain more than twenty ships swinging at their +moorings. The shores are bold to, and, excepting the rocky shoals +that extend off Point Bennelong and Point Dawes, ships may +approach very near.</p> +<p>On the eastern side of the cove is a convenient place for +heaving down: it belongs to the government, but merchant ships +may use it, by paying a small sum according to the length of time +it is engaged. Wood and water are easily obtained from the north +shore of the port; the former may be cut close to the beach; the +latter is collected in tanks, and, excepting during a very dry +season, is always abundant.</p> +<p>The tide rises occasionally at the springs as much as eight +feet, but six feet is the general rise; it is high water at +Sydney Cove at half past eight o'clock, but at the heads, it +precedes this time by a quarter of an hour. The variation of the +magnetic needle observed on shore by Lieutenant Roe:</p> +<p>at Sydney Cove in 1822, to be 8 degrees 42 minutes East,<br> +at Garden Island 9 degrees 6 minutes East,<br> +at Camp Cove 9 degrees 42 minutes East.</p> +<p>As all navigators are, or ought to be, supplied with Captain +Horsburgh's Indian Directory, it has not been thought necessary +to descant further upon the nature of the winds and currents of +the east coast; since this subject has been so fully treated +upon, in the above valuable book, in the section that commences +at page 501.</p> +<p>Captain Horsburgh has also described the entrance of Botany +Bay at page 502, and of Broken Bay, at page 505. According to +Lieutenant Jeffreys, R.N., who commanded the hired armed +transport Kangaroo, the latter harbour has a bar stretching +across from the south to the north head, on which there is not +less than five fathoms water.</p> +<p>PORT HUNTER is situated fifty-nine miles North 22 degrees East +(true) from the entrance of Port Jackson. There is a lighthouse +at its southern entrance, and pilots are established who come off +to vessels that arrive. The entrance is round the Nobby (latitude +32 degrees 56 minutes, longitude 151 degrees 43 1/4 minutes) an +insulated rock: and the passage is indicated by keeping two +lights, that are placed at a distance from each other at the +wharf, in a line: the anchorage is about two hundred yards from +the wharf in three fathoms. The shoals on the west side are +dangerous, and several vessels have been wrecked upon them in +going in. The above information is from a plan drawn by +Lieutenant Jeffreys, in the Hydrographical Office at the +Admiralty: it was drawn in the year 1816; since which a portion +of the labour of the convicts has been employed in building a +breakwater, or pier, from the south entrance to the Nobby Rock, +which will tend to direct the stream of tide through the channel, +and also protect it from the surf and swell, which, during a +south-east gale, must render the harbour of dangerous access. The +town was formerly called King's Town, but it has since been +changed to that of Newcastle, and the appellation of the Coal +River has partly superseded the more legitimate name of Port +Hunter.</p> +<p>PORT STEPHENS is easy to enter, but not to sail from, unless +the wind is fair, on account of the shoals that are near its +entrance. Point Stephens is in latitude 32 degrees 46 1/2 +minutes, longitude 152 degrees 9 minutes 45 seconds.</p> +<p>BLACK HEAD is an island, behind which there is very good +anchorage; the head is in latitude 32 degrees 38 minutes 20 +seconds. Between Black Head, and the hills called the Brothers, +are WALLIS' Lake, in latitude 32 degrees 11 minutes 50 seconds, +HARRINGTON'S Lake, in 32 degrees 0 minutes, and FARQUHAR'S Lake, +in latitude 31 degrees 54 minutes; they were discovered by +Lieutenant Oxley on his return from his land journey in 1819; +they have all shoal entrances, and are merely the outlets of +extensive lagoons, which receive the streams from the hills, and +occupy a considerable space between the coast and the +mountains.</p> +<p>In latitude 31 degrees 47 minutes 50 seconds, and at the +distance of two miles and a quarter from the shore, is a +dangerous reef, on which the sea constantly breaks; it was named +by Lieutenant Oxley, who discovered it, the MERMAID'S REEF; it is +about a quarter of a mile in extent, and bears South 85 degrees +East from the South Brother; a small detached portion of the reef +is separated from the principal rock, within which there appeared +to be a narrow navigable channel. A quarter of a mile without the +latter we found sixteen fathoms water. Round the point under the +North Brother Hill, is CAMDEN HAVEN, the particulars respecting +its entrance (in latitude 31 degrees 41 minutes, longitude 152 +degrees) are not yet known, but it is supposed to be very +shoal.</p> +<p>PORT MACQUARIE is the embouchure or the River Hastings; its +entrance is about two miles and two-thirds to the +North-North-West of Tacking Point. It is a bar harbour, and, like +Port Hunter, is of dangerous access, on account of the banks of +sand that project from the low north sandy point of entrance, on +which the sea breaks and forms sand rollers; these however serve +to indicate the edge of the channel, which is about ninety yards +wide. The south shore extends in a North-North-West direction +from Tacking Point to Green Mound (a remarkable conical shaped +hillock) whence the south shore of the entrance trends in nearly +a west direction to the narrow entrance opposite Pelican +Point.</p> +<p>Between Green Mound and the next projection the bar stretches +across towards the sand rollers, and is about one hundred and +twenty yards in extent.</p> +<p>The deepest channel over it is within thirty yards of two +sunken rocks, the outermost of which bears from Green Mound North +45 degrees West (true) or North 55 degrees West, nine hundred +yards. When Green Mound Point and the next point to the southward +of it are in a line, you are within a few yards of the shoalest +part of the bar. After passing the bar, there are from two to +four fathoms water. Since the examination of this harbour, a +penal settlement has been formed, and a pilot appointed to +conduct vessels in and out. Off the entrance is a high rocky +islet, the Nobby, within which the channel is shoal and dangerous +to pass. There is good anchorage in four, five, or six fathoms, +about half a mile outside of the bar, on a bank of sand, which +gradually deepens for three miles to fourteen fathoms, upon any +part of which a vessel may anchor to await high water.</p> +<p>Latitude of its entrance 31 degrees 25 minutes 32 seconds +South.<br> +Longitude 152 degrees 57 minutes 25 seconds East.<br> +Variation of the compass 10 degrees 11 minutes 0 seconds +East.<br> +High water at full and change 8 hours 56 minutes.<br> +Tide rises four to five feet.</p> +<p>The south-east trend of SMOKY CAPE is in latitude 30 degrees +55 minutes 40 seconds, longitude 153 degrees 4 minutes 30 +seconds.</p> +<p>TRIAL BAY, so named by Lieutenant Oxley, who anchored in it on +a second expedition to examine Port Macquarie previous to its +being settled, is a convenient roadstead during southerly winds: +it is situated on the north side of Smoky Cape, and affords an +anchorage in three fathoms, protected from the sea as far as +North-East by East. Fresh water may be procured from a stream +that runs over the beach. Four miles to the north of Smoky Cape +is an inlet having a bar harbour, on which there is but eight +feet water.</p> +<p>SHOAL BAY is the next harbour to the northward: the following +description of it is from Captain Flinders (Flinders' Terra +Australis, Introduction, cxcv.)</p> +<p>"On the south side of the entrance, which is the deepest, +there is ten feet at low water; and within side the depth is from +two to four fathoms, in a channel near the south shore: the rest +of the bar is mostly occupied by shoals, over which boats can +scarcely pass when the tide is out. High water appeared to take +place about seven hours after the moon's passage; at which time a +ship not drawing more than fourteen feet might venture in, if +severely pressed. Shoal Bay is difficult to be found except by +its latitude, which is 29 degrees 26 1/2 minutes, but there is on +the low land about four leagues to the southward, a small hill +somewhat peaked, which may serve as a mark to vessels coming from +that direction."</p> +<p>CAPE BYRON, in latitude 28 degrees 38 minutes 10 seconds, +longitude 153 degrees 37 minutes 20 seconds. MOUNT WARNING is in +latitude 28 degrees 24 minutes, longitude 153 degrees 12 +minutes.</p> +<p>THE TWEED is a river communicating with the sea by a bar, on +which there is twelve feet water, it is situated about a mile and +a half to the north of a small island off Point Danger, which +lies in latitude 28 degrees 8 minutes.</p> +<p>In latitude 28 degrees there is a communication with the inlet +at the south side of Moreton Bay, insulating the land whose north +extremity is Point Lookout. The entrance of this inlet is shoal +and only passable for boats.</p> +<p>MORETON BAY.* In addition to the account of this bay by +Captain Flinders,** Lieutenant Oxley has lately discovered the +Brisbane, a very fine fresh water river that falls into it in 27 +degrees 25 minutes latitude, abreast of the strait between +Moreton Island and Point Lookout.</p> +<blockquote>(*Footnote. This bay was originally called Glass +House Bay, in allusion to the name given by Captain Cook to three +remarkable glass house-looking hills near Pumice-stone River; but +as Captain Cook bestowed the name of Moreton Bay upon the strait +to the south of Moreton Island, that name has a prior claim, and +is now generally adopted. A penal settlement has lately been +formed at Red Cliff Point, which is situated a little to the +north of the embouchure of the Brisbane River.)</blockquote> +<blockquote>(*Footnote. Flinders Introduction +cxcvi.)</blockquote> +<p>WIDE BAY, the entrance of which is in latitude 25 degrees 49 +minutes, was examined by Mr. Edwardson, the master of one of the +government colonial vessels; he found it to be a good port, +having in its entrance a channel of not less than three fathoms +deep; and to communicate with Hervey's Bay, thus making an island +of the Great Sandy Peninsula.</p> +<p>INDIAN HEAD is in latitude 25 degrees 1 minute, and longitude +153 degrees 23 minutes.</p> +<hr align="center" width="20%"> +<h4>APPENDIX A. SECTION 2.</h4> +<p align="center">DESCRIPTION OF THE WINDS AND WEATHER, AND OF +THE PORTS, ISLANDS, AND COAST BETWEEN BREAKSEA SPIT AND CAPE +YORK.</p> +<p>NORTH-EAST COAST.</p> +<p>The south-east trade is occasionally suspended near the shore +by north-easterly winds during the months of June, July, and +August, the only season that I have any experience of the winds +and weather upon the north-east coast; the weather is generally +thick and cloudy, and often accompanied with showers of rain, +particularly during the two first months.</p> +<p>In the neighbourhood of Breaksea Spit in May, 1819, we +experienced a fresh gale from the westward, after which it veered +to south-east with thick rainy weather: and in the neighbourhood +of Cape Capricorn, in June, 1821, we had a fresh gale from the +north-east. Among the Northumberland Islands, we have experienced +westerly winds, but they blew in light breezes with fine weather. +Even as far as Cape Grafton the wind cannot be said to be steady. +To the north of this point, however, the winds are always +constant from the southward, and seldom or ever veer to the +westward of south, or to the eastward of South-East by East; they +generally are from South-South-East: fresh winds cause the +weather to be hazy, and sometimes bring rain, which renders the +navigation among the reefs in some degree dangerous. In my last +voyage up the coast, on approaching Cape York, the weather was so +thick that we could not see more than a quarter of a mile ahead; +we, however, ran from reef to reef, and always saw them in +sufficient time to alter the course if we were in error. In such +a navigation cloudy dull weather is, however, rather an advantage +than otherwise, because the reefs, from the absence of the glare +of the sun, are more distinctly seen, particularly in the +afternoon, when the sun is to the westward. Later in the season +(August 1820) we had more settled weather, for the wind seldom +veered to the southward of South-South-East, or eastward of +East-South-East; and this weather accompanied us from Breaksea +Spit, through Torres Strait.</p> +<p>The best time for passing up this coast is in April and the +beginning of May, or between the middle of August and latter end +of October; in the months of June and July, the passage is not +apparently so safe, on account of the changeable weather that may +be encountered, which to a stranger would create much anxiety, +although no real danger. Strict attention to these directions and +confidence in the chart, with a cautious lookout will, however, +neutralize all the dangers that thick weather may produce in this +navigation.</p> +<p>The tides and currents in this part are not of much +consequence. The rise of tide is trifling, the flood-tide sets to +the North-West, but at a very slow rate. In the neighbourhood of +the reefs, the stream sometimes sets at the rate of a knot or in +some cases at two knots, but for a small distance it is scarcely +perceptible. There appeared rather to be a gentle drain of +current to the North-West.</p> +<p>HERVEY'S BAY and BUSTARD BAY have been already described by +Captains Cook and Flinders. We did not enter either, so that I +have nothing to offer in addition to the valuable information of +those navigators (Hawkesworth volume 3 page 113 and 117; and +Flinders Introduction cci. and volume 2 page 9 et seq.)</p> +<p>LADY ELLIOT'S ISLAND is a low islet, covered with shrubs and +trees, and surrounded by a coral reef, which extends for +three-quarters of a mile from its north-east end; the island is +not more than three-quarters of a mile long, and about a quarter +of a mile broad; it is dangerous to approach at night, from being +very low. It is situated thirty miles North 53 degrees West +(magnetic) from the extremity of Breaksea Spit (as laid down in +Captain Flinders' chart); its latitude is 24 degrees 6 minutes, +and its longitude 152 degrees 45 minutes 15 seconds.</p> +<p>BUNKER'S GROUP consists of three islets; they are low and +wooded like Lady Elliot's Island, and lie South-East and +North-West from each other; the south-easternmost (or 1st) has a +coral reef projecting for two miles and a half to the North-East: +four miles and a half to the North-West of the north-westernmost +(or 3rd islet) is a large shoal, which, from the heavy breakers +upon it, is probably a part of the barrier or outer reefs. The +centre island (or 2nd) of the group is in latitude 23 degrees 51 +minutes 10 seconds, and longitude 152 degrees 19 minutes 5 +seconds. Off the south-west end of the 2nd island is a small +detached islet connected to it by a reef; and off the north-east +end of the 3rd island is another islet, also connected by a coral +reef.</p> +<p>The spaces between these islands, which are more than a league +wide, are quite free from danger: we passed within a quarter of a +mile of the south end of the reef off the 3rd island, without +getting bottom with ten fathoms.</p> +<p>RODD'S BAY, a small harbour on the west side of the point to +the northward of Bustard Bay, offers a good shelter for vessels +of one hundred and fifty tons burden. The channel lies between +two sandbanks, which communicate with either shore. In hauling +round the point, steer for Middle Head, a projecting rocky point +covered with trees, keeping the centre of it in the bearing of +about South (magnetic); you will then carry first five, then six +and seven fathoms: when you are abreast of the north low sandy +point, you have passed the sandbank on the eastern side, the +extremity of which bears from the point West 1/4 North about one +mile: then haul in East by South, and anchor at about one-third +of a mile from the low sandy point bearing North.</p> +<p>In hauling round this point, you must not shoalen your water, +on the south side, to less than four fathoms, as the sandbank +projects for a mile and a quarter from Middle Head. In the centre +of the channel, between Sandy Point and Middle Head, and at about +one third of a mile from the former, you will have seven, eight, +and nine fathoms water, until it bears North by East when it +shoals to five fathoms. The situation of the extremity of the low +sandy point upon Captain Flinders' chart (East Coast sheet 3) is +in latitude 23 degrees 59 minutes 45 seconds, and longitude 151 +degrees 34 minutes 45 seconds. High water takes place at eight +hours and a half after the moon's transit.</p> +<p>In standing into Rodd's Bay, the water does not shoalen until +you are in a line with the north points of Facing Island and +Bustard Bay.</p> +<p>There is a run of fresh water in the bay to the eastward of +the low sandy point, but it was not thought to be a durable +stream. Wood may be cut close to the beach, and embarked without +impediment.</p> +<p>PORT BOWEN. Captain Flinders, in his account of this port, has +merely confined himself to the anchorage under Entrance Island +(latitude 22 degrees 29 minutes, longitude 150 degrees 45 minutes +30 seconds) which is, at best, but an exposed roadstead. The +channel in, on the north side of the island, is free from danger, +but, on the south side, between it and Cape Clinton, there is an +extensive shoal on which the sea breaks heavily: it was not +ascertained whether it is connected with the bank off the south +end of the island, but there is every probability of it. The +inlet round Cape Clinton affords good anchorage: but in the +mid-channel the depth is as much as eighteen fathoms; the sands +on the western side of the inlet are steep to, and should be +avoided, for the tide sweeps upon them. The best anchorage is in +the sandy bay round the inner trend of the cape (latitude 22 +degrees 31 minutes 40 seconds, longitude 150 degrees 44 minutes) +where both wood and water are convenient. In steering in from +sea, haul round the cape, and pass about half to three-quarters +of a mile to the north of the high round island, in seven +fathoms, avoiding the sandbanks on either side. In passing the +inner trend of the cape, the water will shoal to three and +three-quarter fathoms, but do not approach too near the point. +When you have opened the inlet, steer in, and, having passed the +inner cape, haul in to a sandy bay on the eastern side, where you +may anchor in eight or nine fathoms at pleasure.</p> +<p>The centre of the shoal in the middle of the port bears North +1/4 East by compass, from the high round island, and North by +West 1/4 West when in a line with Entrance Island.</p> +<p>High water appears to take place half an hour later than at +Entrance Island, or about 10 hours 40 minutes after the moon's +southing (the moon's age being thirteen days). The tide did not +rise more than six feet, but it wanted three days to the springs. +Captain Flinders supposes the spring tides to rise not less than +fifteen feet. The variation of the compass was 9 degrees 5 +minutes East, off Cape Clinton, but at Entrance Island, according +to Captain Flinders, it was 7 degrees 40 minutes East.</p> +<p>NORTHUMBERLAND ISLANDS. In the direction of North 8 degrees +East (magnetic) and five miles and a half from the 3rd Island, is +a low rock which, at high water, is very little above the surface +of the sea; it is very dangerous because it is in the direct +track of vessels steering towards the Percy Isles. It escaped the +observation of Captain Flinders.</p> +<p>In the direction of South 42 degrees West (magnetic) and ten +miles from the west end of Percy Island Number 1, are some rocks, +but I am not aware whether they are covered: they were seen by +Lieutenant Jefferies in 1815.</p> +<p>Another patch of dry rocks was seen by me from the summit of a +hill at the west end of Percy Island Number 1, whence they bore +South 60 degrees West (magnetic) and were supposed to be distant +about eight or nine miles. The variation of the compass here is +between 7 and 8 degrees East.</p> +<p>The PERCY ISLES have also been described by Captain Flinders; +the bay at the west end of Number 1 is of very steep approach and +not safe to anchor in, excepting during a south-east wind: the +anchorage at Number 2, inside the Pine Islets, is bad, since the +bottom is rocky; the ground is, however, clearer more to the +southward; on the whole this anchorage is not insecure, since +there is a safe passage out either on the north or south sides of +the Pine Islets. Wood may be procured with facility, and water +also, unless the streams fail in the dry season. Captain Flinders +was at these islands at the latter end of September, and found it +abundant. The flood-tide comes from the north-east; at the +anchorage in the channel, between the pine islets and Number 2, +the flood sets to the south, and the ebb to the north; the +maximum rate was one and a quarter knot. High water occurred at +the latter place two hours and a half before the moon's passage; +but on the following day did not precede it more than one hour +and a half. Captain Flinders mentions high water taking place on +shore at eight hours after the moon's passage. (Vide Flinders +volume 2 page 82.) The tide rose twelve feet when the moon was +thirteen days old. The north-west end of Number 1 is in latitude +21 degrees 44 minutes 50 seconds, longitude 150 degrees 16 +minutes 40 seconds; south-west end of Number 2 is in latitude 21 +degrees 40 minutes 50 seconds, longitude 150 degrees 13 +minutes.</p> +<p>In passing SHOAL POINT, in latitude 21 degrees 0 minutes 5 +seconds, longitude 149 degrees 7 minutes 40 seconds, Captain +Cook's ship got into shoal water, and at one time had as little +as three fathoms (Hawkesworth volume 3 page 131); and the +merchant ship Lady Elliot, in the year 1815, met with a sandbank +extending from the island off the point in a north-east direction +for ten miles, on one part of which she found only nine feet +water.</p> +<p>The Mermaid passed the point at the distance of three miles, +and, when the island bore South 68 degrees West, distant two +miles and a half, had four and three-quarter fathoms, which was +the least water that was found, but, being then high water, five +or six feet, if not more, may be deducted, to reduce it to the +proper low water sounding. There was no appearance of shoaler +water near us, and it is probable that Captain Cook's and the +Lady Elliot's tracks were farther off shore. The variation of the +compass, six miles east of Point Slade, was 7 degrees 11 minutes +East.</p> +<p>CAPE HILLSBOROUGH is a projection terminating in a bluff point +in latitude 20 degrees 53 minutes 40 seconds, and longitude 149 +degrees 0 minutes 15 seconds: being high land, it may be seen +seven or eight leagues off. The variation here is 6 degrees 30 +minutes East.</p> +<p>The CUMBERLAND ISLES extend between the parallels of 20 and 21 +degrees 6 minutes, and consist generally of elevated, rocky +islands; they are all abundantly wooded, particularly with pines, +which grow to a larger size than at the Percy Isles. We did not +land upon any of them; they appeared to be of bold approach, and +not dangerous to navigate amongst; they are from six to eight +hundred feet high, and some of the peaks on the northern island +are much higher.</p> +<p>k l (latitude 21 degrees 5 minutes 40 seconds, longitude 149 +degrees 54 minutes 25 seconds) is about three-quarters of a mile +in diameter; it is of peaked shape; at three-quarters of a mile +off its south-east end there is a dry rocky lump.</p> +<p>k (latitude 21 degrees 0 minutes, longitude 149 degrees 52 +minutes 30 seconds) is nearly a mile and a quarter in diameter, +and has a considerable reef stretching for more than a mile and a +half off both its north-west and south-east ends; on the latter +is a small rocky islet.</p> +<p>k 2 (in latitude 20 degrees 58 minutes, longitude 149 degrees +44 minutes 55 seconds) is of hummocky shape; it has also a reef +off its south-east and north-west ends, stretching off at least a +mile. On the south-east reef is a dry rocky islet.</p> +<p>THREE ROCKS, in latitude 20 degrees 56 1/4 minutes, are small +islets of moderate height. All these islands are surrounded by +deep water. The variation here is about 6 3/4 degrees East.</p> +<p>k 4, in latitude 20 degrees 53 minutes 10 seconds, and k 4 +1/2, in latitude 20 degrees 58 minutes, and the two sandy islets +to the westward of them, were seen only at a distance.</p> +<p>l, in latitude 20 degrees 51 minutes 10 seconds, l 1, in +latitude 20 degrees 54 minutes 10 seconds, containing two +islands, l 3, in latitude 20 degrees 44 minutes l5 seconds, and l +4, in latitude 20 degrees 45 minutes 30 seconds, are also high, +but we were not nearer to them than six or seven miles; l 2, in +latitude 20 degrees 45 minutes 40 seconds, longitude 149 degrees +33 minutes 55 seconds, is the island on which Captain Flinders +landed, and describes in volume 2 page 94; he says, "This little +island is of triangular shape, and each side of it is a mile +long; it is surrounded by a coral reef. The time of high water +took place ONE HOUR before the moon's passage, as it had done +among the barrier reefs; from ten to fifteen feet seemed to be +the rise by the shore, and the flood came from the northward." +The variation near l 2 is 6 degrees 17 minutes East.</p> +<p>m is a high, bluff island, the peaked summit of which, in +latitude 20 degrees 46 minutes 35 seconds and longitude 149 +degrees 15 minutes 15 seconds, is eight hundred and seventy-four +feet high: there are several islets off its south-east end, and +one off its north-west end.</p> +<p>SIR JAMES SMITH'S GROUP consists of ten or twelve distinct +islands, and perhaps as many more, for we were not within twelve +miles of them. On the principal island is LINNE PEAK, in latitude +20 degrees 40 minutes 30 seconds, and longitude 149 degrees 9 +minutes 10 seconds; it is seven or eight hundred feet high.</p> +<p>SHAW'S PEAK, in latitude 20 degrees 28 minutes, longitude 149 +degrees 2 minutes 55 seconds, is on a larger island than any to +the southward; it is sixteen hundred and one feet high. The group +consists of several islands; it is separated from the next to the +northward by a channel five miles wide. In the centre is +PENTECOST ISLAND, a remarkable rock, rising abruptly out of the +sea to the height of eleven hundred and forty feet. Its latitude +is 20 degrees 23 minutes 10 seconds, and longitude 148 degrees 59 +minutes 30 seconds.</p> +<p>The northern group of the Cumberland Islands are high, and +appear to be better furnished with wood, and more fertile than +the southern groups, particularly on their western sides.</p> +<p>The principal peak, in latitude 29 degrees 15 minutes 10 +seconds and longitude 148 degrees 55 minutes, is fifteen hundred +and eighty-four feet high, and is situated on the largest island, +which is ten miles long, and from three to nine broad: it has +several bays on either side, and off its south-eastern end are +four small islands: beyond them is a range of rocky islets. The +northernmost island of this range is the extremity of the +Cumberland Islands, as well as the north-eastern limit of +Whitsunday Passage; it forms a high, bluff point, in latitude 20 +degrees 0 minutes, and longitude 148 degrees 50 minutes 30 +seconds, and is of bold approach: on the western side of the +island are some low islets.</p> +<p>REPULSE BAY is a deep bight: its shores are low, but the hills +rise to a great height. The extremity of the bay was not +distinctly traced, but it is probable, upon examining it, that a +fresh-water rivulet may be found; and there may be a +communication with Edgecumbe Bay.</p> +<p>The Repulse Isles are of small size; they are surrounded by +rocks, which do not extend more than a quarter of a mile from +them. The summit of the largest island is in latitude 20 degrees +37 minutes 5 seconds, and longitude 148 degrees 50 minutes 30 +seconds. Variation 6 degrees 15 minutes East.</p> +<p>Between Capes Conway and Hillsborough the flood-tide comes +from the north-eastward, but is very irregular in the direction +of the stream. At an anchorage off the island near the latter +cape the tide rose twelve feet, but close to the Repulse Isles, +the rise was eighteen feet. At the former place, the moon being +full, high water took place at about three-quarters past ten +o'clock; by an observation the next day at the latter, it was a +quarter of an hour later: the maximum rate was about one and a +half knot.</p> +<p>WHITSUNDAY PASSAGE, formed by the northern group of the +Cumberland Islands, is from three to six miles wide, and, with +the exception of a small patch or rocks within a quarter of a +mile from Cape Conway, and a sandbank (that is probably dry, or +nearly so at low water) off Round Head, is free from danger. The +shores appear to be bold to, and the depth, in the fairway, +varies between twenty and thirty fathoms; the shoal off Round +Head stretches in a North-North-West direction, but its extent +was not ascertained.</p> +<p>In steering through the strait, particularly during the +flood-tide, this shoal should be avoided by keeping well over to +the east shore; for the tide there sets across the strait; it is +about a mile and a half from Round Head, in which space the water +is ten and fourteen fathoms deep.</p> +<p>Between Round Head (in latitude 20 degrees 28 minutes 30 +seconds) and Cape Conway is a bay, where there appeared to be +good anchorage out of the strength of the tides; and to the north +of Round Head is another bay, the bottom of which is an isthmus +of about a mile wide, separating it from an inlet to the westward +of Cape Conway. This bay very probably affords good anchorage out +of the strength of the tides.</p> +<p>CAPE CONWAY, in latitude 20 degrees 32 minutes, and longitude +148 degrees 54 minutes, is the western limit of the south +entrance of Whitsunday Passage; it is a steep point, sloping off +to the eastward: immediately on its north side is a small shingly +beach, a few yards behind which there is a hollow, containing a +large quantity of fresh water. At a short quarter of a mile from +the point is a rocky shoal of small size, between which and the +shore there is deep water.</p> +<p>PINE HEAD, in latitude 20 degrees 23 minutes, and longitude +148 degrees 51 minutes 40 seconds, is the south-east extremity of +a small island that is separated from the main by a passage of +about a mile wide, but we did not ascertain whether it is +navigable. The head is a high, bluff point, clothed with +pine-trees: near it the tide runs in strong eddies, and for that +reason it ought not to be approached nearer than half a mile; it +appeared to be bold to. There is a sandy bay on its south west +side affording a good landing-place; the island is clothed with +grass, and thickly wooded: we found no water. The variation was 5 +degrees 35 minutes East.</p> +<p>PORT MOLLE, so named by Lieutenant Jeffreys, appeared to trend +in for four or five miles: and, probably, to afford a convenient +port, as it is well sheltered from the wind, and is protected +from the north-east by a group of small islands, thickly wooded. +Hence the land trends to the north-west towards Cape Gloucester; +the shore was very indistinctly seen, but seemed to be very much +indented, and to possess several bays, if not rivers; for the +land at the back is very high, and must give rise to several +mountain, if not navigable, streams.</p> +<p>MOUNT DRYANDER, whose summit is in latitude 20 degrees 14 +minutes 10 seconds, and longitude 148 degrees 30 minutes 55 +seconds, forms a small peak, and is visible from Repulse Bay, as +well as from the northern extremity of the Cumberland Islands: it +is four thousand five hundred and sixty-six feet high; and the +hills around it are at least from seven hundred to a thousand +feet in height.</p> +<p>The greater part of the water that collects from these hills +probably empties itself into Repulse and Edgecumbe Bays, or it +may be distributed in lagoons upon the low land that separates +them.</p> +<p>At the back of Point Slade there is a high mountainous range +extending without interruption to the westward of Mount Upstart. +In latitude 21 degrees 1 1/2 minutes, and longitude 148 degrees +36 3/4 minutes is a high-rounded summit, which is visible at the +distance of twenty leagues: between this range, which is at the +distance of from five to seven leagues from the sea, and the +coast, are several ridges gradually lowering in altitude as they +approach the shore. In the neighbourhood of Repulse Bay, this +mountainous range recedes, and has a considerable track of low +land at its base, which is possibly a rich country: from the +height of the hills, it must be well watered.</p> +<p>CAPE GLOUCESTER. The point of land that Captain Cook took +originally for the cape, is an island of about five miles long +and two broad, separated from the true Cape Gloucester by a +strait, a mile and a half wide. The island is called Gloucester +Island; its summit at the north end is in latitude 19 degrees 57 +minutes 24 seconds, longitude 148 degrees 23 minutes 38 seconds: +it is eighteen hundred and seventy-four feet high, and its summit +is a ridge of peaks: its shores are rocky and steep; and, +although the sides of the hills are wooded, yet it has a sombre +and heavy appearance, and, at least, does not look fertile. The +cape, in latitude 20 degrees 1 minute 50 seconds, and longitude +148 degrees 26 minutes 15 seconds, is the extremity of the +mountainous range that extends off Mount Dryander. The variation +observed off the island was 7 degrees 11 minutes East.</p> +<p>EDGECUMBE BAY is a deep indentation of the land, the shores of +which are very low: its extent was not ascertained, but, by the +bearings of some land at the bottom, it is seventeen miles deep; +and its greatest breadth, at the mouth, is about fourteen miles. +It affords excellent shelter; and between Middle Island (a small +rocky islet of a mile and half in extent) and Gloucester Island +there is good anchorage in seven fathoms muddy bottom, with +protection from all winds. We did not examine the bay farther +than passing round Middle Island in six, seven, and eight +fathoms, mud. The western side is formed by low islands, that +appeared to be swampy, but our distance was too great to form the +most distant opinion of them: if the main is not swampy, it must +be a rich and interesting country.</p> +<p>HOLBORNE ISLAND is a rocky island, visible about seven or +eight leagues, and has three small islets near it: it is in +latitude 19 degrees 41 minutes 5 seconds, and longitude 148 +degrees 17 minutes 30 seconds.</p> +<p>CAPE UPSTART is the extremity of Mount Upstart, which is so +high as to be visible for more than twenty leagues in clear +weather: it rises abruptly from a low projection, and forms a +long ridge of mountainous land; the north-east end of the summit +is in latitude 19 degrees 41 minutes 50 seconds, and longitude +147 degrees 44 minutes 30 seconds. This point separates two deep +bays, both of which were of very inviting appearance, on account +of the high and broken character of the gullies on either side of +Mount Abbott, and it was almost evident that they both terminate +in a river. The hills of Mount Upstart are of primitive form, and +were judged to be composed of granite. The variation observed off +the point was 6 degrees 16 minutes East.</p> +<p>CAPE BOWLING-GREEN is very low, and projects for a +considerable distance into the sea: its north-east extremity is +in latitude 19 degrees 19 minutes 10 seconds, and longitude 147 +degrees 23 minutes East; the mountainous ranges are at least +thirty miles in the rear, and, were it not for Mounts Upstart and +Eliot, both of which are very visible, and serve as an excellent +guide, this part of the coast would be very dangerous to +approach, particularly in the night, when these marks cannot be +seen, when great attention must be paid to the lead. A ship +passing this projection should not come into shoaler water than +eleven fathoms; and, in directing a course from abreast of Mount +Upstart, should be steered sufficiently to the northward to +provide against the current which sets into the bay on the +western side of the mount. On approaching the cape, if the +soundings indicate a less depth than eleven fathoms, the vessel +should be hauled more off, because she is then either a parallel +with or to the southward of the cape.</p> +<p>CAPE CLEVELAND (latitude 19 degrees 10 minutes 10 seconds, +longitude 146 degrees 57 minutes 56 seconds) like Mount Upstart, +rises abruptly from a projection of low land, separating +Cleveland Bay from a deep sinuosity that extends under the base +of Mount Eliot, a high range with a rounded hill and a peak, the +latter being at the south extremity of its summit. Mount Eliot +may probably be seen at the distance of twenty-five leagues, if +not farther; between it and the hills of Cape Cleveland the land +is low, and is probably much intersected by water.</p> +<p>A reef extends from the extremity of Cape Cleveland for four +miles to the eastward, but not at all to the northward, so that, +with the point bearing to the southward of West 1/2 South a ship +is safe: there is a breaker near the extremity of the reef, at +about three miles from the point; to avoid which, keep the south +end of Magnetical Island well open of the north extremity of the +cape.</p> +<p>The peaked summit of MOUNT ELIOT is in latitude 19 degrees 33 +minutes 10 seconds, and longitude 146 degrees 54 minutes 25 +seconds.</p> +<p>CLEVELAND BAY affords good anchorage in all parts, in four, +five, and six fathoms; a considerable flat extends for a mile +from the shore on the western side of the cape, and is left dry +at half ebb; it fronts a sandy beach that commences at a mile and +a half to the south of the cape, and extends to the southward for +nearly two miles; over this beach, two or three streams of fresh +water communicate with the sea; they take their rise from the +hills, and probably are seldom dry.</p> +<p>The most convenient watering-place is near the centre of the +beach, a little to the northward of the highest hills. Wood for +fuel is plentiful, and grows close to the beach, and may be +embarked with facility; the best place is at the north end of the +sandy beach, since the boat can be brought nearer to the shore to +protect the wooding party.</p> +<p>HALIFAX BAY extends from Cape Cleveland to Point Hillock; it +has several islands in it, and is fronted by the PALM ISLANDS, +the summit of which is in latitude 18 degrees 43 minutes 5 +seconds, longitude 146 degrees 35 minutes 15 seconds: this group +consists of nineteen islands, one only of which is of large size, +being eight miles long and three wide; it probably affords all +the conveniences of a sheltered anchorage, and a good supply of +wood and water.</p> +<p>In latitude 18 degrees 49 minutes, nine miles from the shore, +and six miles within the island Number 2, is a coral reef, that +shows at low water: it appeared to be about two miles long; +between it and Number 2 is a wide channel with nine fathoms. The +Lady Elliot, merchant ship, in 1815, struck upon a reef in 18 +degrees 45 minutes, about four miles from the shore; of which we +saw nothing; we anchored within four miles of its position, but, +at daylight, when we got underweigh, it might have been covered +by the tide.</p> +<p>In 18 degrees 32 minutes and 146 degrees 41 minutes is a reef, +on which the San Antonio, merchant brig, struck: its position was +not correctly ascertained, as the accident happened in the +night.</p> +<p>POINT HILLOCK is in latitude 18 degrees 25 minutes, and +longitude 146 degrees 20 minutes; it is a low point projecting to +the eastward, under Mount Hinchinbrook.</p> +<p>CAPE SANDWICH is the north-east extremity of the sandy land +that stretches to the northward from the base of Mount +Hinchinbrook, which is so high as to be visible for eighteen +leagues: the mount is topped with a craggy summit, seven miles in +length from north to south.</p> +<p>There is a reef that extends for nearly a mile and a half off +the cape, having a rocky islet at its extremity. The cape is in +latitude 18 degrees 13 minutes 20 seconds, and longitude 146 +degrees 16 minutes 40 seconds. The peak at the north end of Mount +Hinchinbrook is in latitude 18 degrees 21 minutes 30 seconds, and +longitude 146 degrees 15.</p> +<p>BROOKE'S ISLANDS lie four miles north from Cape Sandwich; they +consist of three rocky islets, besides some of smaller size; the +whole are surrounded by a coral reef.</p> +<p>From Cape Sandwich the land extends, low and sandy, in a +North-West direction for five miles to a point, which is +terminated by a hill. Between this and Goold Island there appears +to be a navigable strait leading into Rockingham Bay.</p> +<p>GOOLD ISLAND, the summit of which, formed by a conical hill +covered with wood, in latitude 18 degrees 9 minutes 35 seconds, +and longitude 146 degrees 9 minutes, is about two miles long: the +south-west point of the island is a long strip of low land, with +a sandy beach; at the eastern end of which there is a run of +water; and fuel may be cut close to the shore. High water takes +place at full and change at three quarters past ten.</p> +<p>ROCKINGHAM BAY appears to be a spacious harbour. At the bottom +there was an appearance of an opening that may probably +communicate with an inlet on the south side of Point Hillock, and +insulate the land of Mount Hinchinbrook. There is good anchorage +in the bay in four and five fathoms mud, near Goold Island.</p> +<p>The natives are very friendly here, and will come off and +visit the ship.</p> +<p>FAMILY ISLES consist of seven small rocky islets, covered with +a stunted vegetation.</p> +<p>DUNK ISLAND is remarkable for having two peaks on its summit; +the south-east summit is in latitude 17 degrees 58 minutes, and +longitude 146 degrees 8 minutes 45 seconds. The variation +observed in the offing to the North-East was 5 degrees 41 minutes +East.</p> +<p>BARNARD ISLES form a group of small rocky islands extending in +a straggling direction for six miles to the south of Double +Point. Three miles to the south of the southernmost island, but +nearer to the shore, is a reef of rocks which dry at low +water.</p> +<p>From DOUBLE POINT (latitude of its summit 17 degrees 39 +minutes 50 seconds) to CAPE GRAFTON, the coast is formed by a +succession of sandy bays and projecting rocky points. In latitude +17 degrees 31 minutes, in the centre of a sandy bay, is a small +opening like a rivulet; and, on the south side of Point Cooper is +another; but neither appeared to be navigable for boats. Abreast +of Frankland's Islands, and near the south end of a sandy bay of +six miles in extent, there is another opening like a river, that, +from the appearance of the land behind, which is low and of a +verdant character, may be of considerable size. The high +mountains to the southward, Bellenden Ker's Range, must give rise +to a considerable stream; and it appears very probable that this +may be one of the outlets, but the most considerable is, perhaps, +that which falls into Trinity Bay round Cape Grafton.</p> +<p>FRANKLAND'S ISLANDS consist of several low islets one of which +is detached and of higher character than the others, which are +very low, and connected by a reef. The largest island may be seen +five or six leagues off; it is in latitude 17 degrees 7 minutes +45 seconds.</p> +<p>The land between this and Cape Grafton is high, and towards +the north has several remarkable peaks. The land of Cape Grafton +may be readily known, when seen from the southward, by appearing +like three lofty islands; the outermost is Fitzroy Island, but +the others are hills upon the main. The easternmost of the +latter, Cape Grafton, is conspicuous for having two small peaks, +like notches, on the west extremity of its summit; it is joined +to the westernmost by low land, which also separates the latter +from the other hills behind it; and, as this low land is not seen +at a distance, the hills assume the appearance of islands.</p> +<p>There is good anchorage in the strait between Cape Grafton and +Fitzroy Island, but, with a northerly wind, the better anchorage +would be on the south side of the cape. The former is exposed to +all winds between North-West and North-East. In the former case +the anchor may be dropped in nine fathoms, at a quarter to half a +mile from the beach of the island. The north extremity of Cape +Grafton is in latitude 16 degrees 51 minutes 20 seconds, +longitude 145 degrees 53 minutes 5 seconds; the south-east +extreme is in latitude 16 degrees 54 minutes 20 seconds, +longitude 145 degrees 55 minutes 15 seconds.</p> +<p>FITZROY ISLAND affords both wood and water; it has a peaked +summit. It affords anchorage in the bay on its western side, off +a coral beach; the south-west end of which is in latitude 16 +degrees 55 minutes 21 seconds, and longitude 145 degrees 56 +minutes 21 seconds. Nine miles to the eastward of Fitzroy Island +is a small bare sandy island; and, at about seven miles +North-East by East from it, there was an appearance of extensive +shoals. Variation 5 degrees 10 minutes East.</p> +<p>On the west side of CAPE GRAFTON is a bay, in the centre of +which is an island. The bottom is very shoal, but good anchorage +may be had with the cape bearing South-East Between CAPE GRAFTON +and SNAPPER ISLAND, the centre of which is in latitude 16 degrees +17 minutes 35 seconds, and longitude 145 degrees 27 minutes 40 +seconds, is TRINITY BAY; the shores of which were not very +distinctly seen. At the south side, and about seven miles within +the cape there is an opening that appeared to be extensive, and +the mouth of a considerable stream, trending in between high +ranges of land, in a direction towards Bellenden Ker's Range.</p> +<p>In latitude 16 degrees 23 1/2 minutes, and longitude 145 +degrees 34 minutes is a group consisting of three coral islands; +which, being very low, are dangerous to pass in the night.</p> +<p>The offing is said to be strewed with extensive reefs; we saw +none beyond Green Island: those that are laid down on the chart +are from Lieutenant Jeffrey's account.*</p> +<blockquote>(*Footnote. Much shoal water was seen to the +northward of Green Island from the Tamar's masthead. Roe +manuscript.)</blockquote> +<p>SNAPPER ISLAND lies off the point which forms the northern +limit of Trinity Bay; it is small, and does not supply any +water.*</p> +<blockquote>(*Footnote. Ten or eleven miles South 80 degrees East +from Snapper Island is the north-west end of a shoal, extending +to the South 41 degrees East for sixteen or seventeen miles; the +Tamar anchored under it. Roe manuscript.)</blockquote> +<p>The land behind CAPE TRIBULATION may be seen at a greater +distance than twenty leagues. It is here that the outer part of +the barrier reefs approach the coast, and there is reason to +believe that, in latitude 16 degrees 17 minutes 35 seconds, +longitude 145 degrees 27 minutes 40 seconds, they are not more +than twenty miles from it. The cape has a hillock at its +extremity, and a small rocky islet close to the shore that +renders it conspicuous: it is fourteen miles beyond Snapper +Island. The shore appears to be bold to: at three miles off we +had sixteen fathoms.</p> +<p>Ten miles further to the northward is BLOMFIELD'S RIVULET in +Weary Bay: it is blocked up by a rocky bar, having only four feet +water over it; the anchorage off it is too much exposed to be +safe. The river runs up for four or five miles, having soundings +within it from three to four fathoms, its entrance is in 15 +degrees 55 minutes 50 seconds.</p> +<p>The coast then extends to the north to Endeavour River, and +forms a few inconsiderable sinuosities; it is backed by high +land, particularly abreast of the Hope Islands. These islands +open of each other in a North 39 degrees East direction, and +appear to be connected by a shoal; it is however very likely that +a narrow passage may exist between them, but certainly not safe +to sail through.</p> +<p>Here the number of the coral reefs begin to increase, and +great attention must be paid in navigating amongst them; but, +with a careful look out from the masthead, and a quick leadsman +in the chains, no danger need be apprehended.</p> +<p>Between reef a and the shoal off the south-west Hope Island +there is a passage two miles wide, with twelve fathoms: a is +about half a mile in diameter, with a few rocks above water; its +centre is in 15 degrees 43 minutes 20 seconds, two miles from the +shore, and three miles North 55 degrees West from the south west +Hope.</p> +<p>b is about a mile and a quarter long, and has a dry rock at +its north end, the latitude of which is 15 degrees 39 minutes 20 +seconds: it is divided from Endeavour Reef by a channel of nearly +a mile wide, and fifteen fathoms deep: abreast of the south end +of b, on the western edge of Endeavour Reef, there is a dry rock, +in latitude 15 degrees 39 minutes 55 seconds.</p> +<p>ENDEAVOUR REEF is nine miles long; it lies in a North-West +direction; the north end, in 15 degrees 39 minutes South, bears +due from the North-east Hope.</p> +<p>c is covered, and not quite half a mile in length; its +latitude is 15 degrees 32 minutes: it lies four miles from the +shore.</p> +<p>d is rather larger, and has some dry rocks on its north end, +in latitude 15 degrees 29 minutes 30 seconds. Between c and d and +the shore the passage is from three to four miles wide, and in +mid-channel the depth is seven and eight fathoms.</p> +<p>On the south side of Point Monkhouse there is a bay having a +small opening at the bottom, but not deep enough for ships: it +was this bay that Captain Cook first examined in search of a +place to repair his ship.</p> +<p>On steering along the shore between Point Monkhouse and the +entrance of Endeavour River, the bottom is of sand and of +irregular depth. A spit of sand was passed over with only two and +a half fathoms on it when the summit of Mount Cook bore South 66 +degrees West (magnetic) and the outer extreme of Point Monkhouse +South 18 degrees West (magnetic). One mile off shore the shoal +soundings continued with two and a half fathoms until it bore +South 59 degrees West (magnetic) when the depth was three, and +three and a half fathoms.</p> +<p>ENDEAVOUR RIVER. The entrance of this river, in latitude 15 +degrees 27 minutes 4 seconds, and longitude 145 degrees 10 +minutes 49 seconds,* forms a very good port for small vessels; +and, in a case of distress, might be useful for large ships, as +it proved to our celebrated navigator Captain Cook, who, it is +well known, repaired his ship there after having laid +twenty-three hours upon a coral reef.</p> +<blockquote>(*Footnote. The situation of the observatory at +Endeavour River was found by lunar distances, taken during my +visits to that place in 1819 and 1820, as follows: +<p>Latitude by meridional altitudes of the sun, taken in the +artificial horizon, being the mean of twenty-seven observations: +15 degrees 27 minutes 4 seconds.</p> +<p>Longitude by twenty-five set of distances (sun West of first +quarter of the moon) containing one hundred and seventeen sights, +with the sextant: 144 degrees 52 minutes 16 seconds.</p> +<p>Longitude by thirty set of distances (sun East of first +quarter of the moon) containing one hundred and fifty sights, +with the sextant: 145 degrees 29 minutes 23 seconds.</p> +<p>Mean, of fifty-five sets: 145 degrees 10 minutes 49 +seconds.)</p> +</blockquote> +<p>The entrance is formed on the south side by a steep hill, +covered with trees growing to the edge of its rocky shore. The +north side of the entrance is a low sandy beach of two miles and +a quarter in length: at its north end a range of hills rises +abruptly, and extends for six or seven miles, when it again +suddenly terminates, and is separated from the rocky projection +of Cape Bedford by a low plain of sand.</p> +<p>The entrance of Endeavour River is defended by a bar, on +which, at high water, there is about fourteen feet; but, at low +water, not more than ten feet: the channel over the bar is close +to the south side, for the sandbank extends from the low sandy +north shore to within one hundred and forty yards of the south +shore, and at three quarters ebb (spring tides) is dry.</p> +<p>In steering in for the mouth, upon bringing Point Monkhouse in +a line with Point a (the north point of the bay under Mount Cook) +you will be in three fathoms; steer in until the south extremity +of the low north sandy point is opened of the trend round Point +c, when you may haul a little more in, and when point d (which is +a point where the mangroves commence) bears South 33 degrees West +(magnetic) steer directly for it; this will carry you over the +deepest part or the bar, which stretches off from point c in a +North 75 degrees West (magnetic) direction; another mark is to +keep the trend beyond d just in sight, but not open, or you will +be too near the spit: the best way is, having opened it, haul in +a little to the southward, and shut it in again: you may pass +within ten yards of point d; and the best anchorage is just +within it; the vessel may be secured head and stern to trees on +the beach, with bow and stern anchors to steady her. No vessel of +a greater draught than twelve feet should enter the harbour; and +this vessel may even moor in four fathoms within her own length +of the shore, with the outer trend just shut in by the mangrove +point a. The watering-place is a stream that empties itself into +the port through the mangroves, about two hundred yards to the +south: and if this should fail, there is a good stream at the +north end of the long north sandy beach. The latter, although +very high coloured, is of wholesome quality; but in bad weather +is inconvenient to be procured on account of the surf. Water for +common purposes of cooking may be had on a sandy beach a little +without the entrance, but it is of a mineral quality, and of +brackish taste. It is high water at full and change at eight +o'clock, and the tide rises from five to ten feet. The variation +of the observatory was 5 degrees 14 minutes East.</p> +<p>CAPE BEDFORD (latitude 15 degrees 16 minutes 19 seconds, +longitude 145 degrees 17 minutes 19 seconds) is high, and forms a +steep slope to the sea: it appeared to be bold to.* Between it +and Cape Flattery is a bay backed by low land, about five miles +deep; but it is exposed to the wind, unless there is anchorage +under the north-west end of Cape Bedford.</p> +<blockquote>(*Footnote. Shoal water extends for nearly a mile +round Cape Bedford. Roe manuscript.)</blockquote> +<p>CAPE FLATTERY is eighteen miles north of Cape Bedford: its +extremity is high and rocky, and forms two distinct hills. The +summit of the cape is in latitude 14 degrees 52 minutes 30 +seconds, and longitude 145 degrees 16 minutes 10 seconds.*</p> +<blockquote>(*Footnote. There are some dangerous shoals to the +eastward of Point Lookout, and to the northward of Cape Flattery, +about two miles apart from each other, situated in what was +considered to be the fair channel. Roe manuscript.)</blockquote> +<p>Eleven miles beyond the cape, in a North 45 degrees West +direction, is POINT LOOKOUT, forming a peaked hill at the +extremity of a low sandy projection, whence the land trends West +by North 1/2 North for twelve leagues to Cape Bowen.</p> +<p>e, a reef nearly three miles long and one broad: its north end +is twelve miles nearly due East from the entrance of Endeavour +River, in latitude 15 degrees 26 minutes 50 seconds, longitude +145 degrees 23 minutes 30 seconds.</p> +<p>TURTLE REEF was visited by Mr. Bedwell, it is covered at high +water, excepting a small spot of sand, about the size of the +boat, at its north end in latitude 15 degrees 23 minutes, +longitude 145 degrees 22 minutes 50 seconds: its interior is +occupied, like most others, by a shoal lagoon; it is entirely of +coral, and has abundance of shellfish; it was here that Captain +Cook procured turtle during his stay at Endeavour River, from the +entrance of which it bears North 75 degrees East, and is distant +eleven miles; its south end is separated from e by a channel of a +mile wide.</p> +<p>THREE ISLES, in latitude 15 degrees 7 minutes 30 seconds, is a +group of low coral islets covered with shrubs, and encircled by a +reef, that is not quite two miles in diameter.</p> +<p>Two miles and three quarters to the North-West is a low wooded +island, about a mile long, also surrounded by a reef; and four +miles to the southward of it is a rocky islet.</p> +<p>REEF f is about four or five miles East-South-East from Three +Isles; it appeared to be about three miles long: its western +extreme is in latitude 15 degrees 10 minutes, and in longitude +145 degrees 26 minutes.</p> +<p>TWO ISLES are also low and wooded, and surrounded by a reef: +the largest islet is in latitude 15 degrees 1 minute 20 seconds, +and longitude 145 degrees 22 minutes 10 seconds.</p> +<p>REEF g appeared to be about a mile broad and two miles and a +half long: its south end is in latitude 15 degrees 0 minutes 15 +seconds, longitude 145 degrees 26 minutes 45 seconds.</p> +<p>REEF h is an extensive reef, having high breakers on its outer +edge: it is more than four miles long, and separated from the +north end of g by a channel a mile wide.</p> +<p>REEF i has several detached reefs about it, on the +northernmost are two rocky islands, and to the southward, on a +detached shoal, there is a bare sandy islet that is perhaps +occasionally covered by the tide: its south-westernmost extremity +and the summit of Lizard Island are in the line of bearing of +North 5 degrees West (magnetic) its latitude is 14 degrees 53 +minutes 40 seconds.</p> +<p>REEF k, in latitude 14 degrees 47 minutes, has a dry sand upon +it: its sub-marine extent was not ascertained.</p> +<p>REEF l; the position of this reef is rather uncertain, near +its western side is a dry key in latitude 14 degrees 47 minutes +30 seconds.</p> +<p>m is probably unconnected with the shoal off the south end of +Eagle Island. In Captain Cook's rough chart there is twelve +fathoms marked between two shoals which must mean the above.</p> +<p>EAGLE ISLAND is low and wooded, and situated at the north end +of a considerable shoal; its latitude is 14 degrees 42 minutes 20 +seconds, and longitude 145 degrees 18 minutes 30 seconds.</p> +<p>DIRECTION ISLANDS are two high rocky islands, so called by +Captain Cook to direct ships to the opening in the reefs, through +which he passed out to sea; they are high and of conical shape, +and might be seen more than five or six leagues off was it not +for the hazy weather that always exists in the neighbourhood of +the reefs; the northernmost is in latitude 14 degrees 44 minutes +50 seconds, longitude 145 degrees 26 minutes 25 seconds: the +southernmost is in latitude 14 degrees 50 minutes, longitude 145 +degrees 26 minutes 45 seconds.</p> +<p>LIZARD ISLAND, about three miles long, is remarkable for its +peaked summit, the latitude of which is 14 degrees 40 minutes 20 +seconds, and longitude 145 degrees 23 minutes: on its south side +is an extensive reef encompassing three islets, of which two are +high and rocky: the best anchorage is on its western side under +the summit; with the high northernmost of the Direction Islands +in sight over the low land, bearing about South-East by compass: +the depth is six and seven fathoms sandy bottom. The variation +here is 5 degrees 2 minutes East.</p> +<p>TURTLE GROUP is four miles to the north of Point Lookout; the +islets are encircled by a horse-shoe shaped coral reef, and +consist of six islands, all low and bushy. These islands are not +laid down with sufficient accuracy as to their relative +positions.</p> +<p>n is a low wooded island about eleven miles west from Lizard +Island; no reef was seen to project from it; it is in the +meridian of the observatory of Endeavour River; and in latitude +14 degrees 40 minutes.</p> +<p>o is a small coral reef; it lies a mile and a half North 64 +degrees West from the north end of n.</p> +<p>p is a coral reef, about a mile in extent, separated from o by +a channel of a mile wide.</p> +<p>q, a reef, on which are two low wooded isles, apparently +connected with a shoal extending from Point Lookout along the +shore to the West-North-West; the isles are seven miles North 64 +degrees West from Point Lookout.</p> +<p>COLES ISLANDS consist of four small bushy islets from a +quarter to half a mile in extent; they are from four to six miles +North-East from Point Murdoch. This group appeared to be merely +the several dry parts of the shoal that extends from Point +Lookout to Noble Island; between them and the latter island, are +two patches of dry sandy keys, but it is probable that they may +be covered by the tide. The continuation of the shoal between the +islands and Point Lookout was not clearly ascertained.</p> +<p>At POINT MURDOCH, which has a peaked hill at its extremity, +the hills again approach the coast; at Cape Bowen they project +into the sea, and separate two bays, in each of which there is +possibly a rivulet; that to the eastward of the cape trends in +and forms a deep bight. On the western side of the hills of Cape +Bowen there is a track of low land, separating them from another +rocky range. The summit of the hill at Point Murdoch is in +latitude 14 degrees 40 minutes, and longitude 144 degrees 46 +minutes.</p> +<p>HOWICK'S GROUP consists of ten or eleven islands, of which +Number 1, remarkable for a hillock at its south-east end, is in +latitude 14 degrees 32 minutes 40 seconds, and longitude 144 +degrees 55 minutes 20 seconds; it is nearly three miles long; the +rest are all less than half a mile in extent, excepting the +westernmost, Number 6, which is nearly a mile and a half in +diameter.</p> +<p>The passage between 2 and 3 is safe, and has seven and eight +fathoms: the north-west side of 3 is of rocky approach, but the +opposite side of the strait is bold to; the anchorage is +tolerably good. The Mermaid drove, but it was not considered to +be caused by the nature of the bottom, which is of soft sand, and +free from rocks.</p> +<p>The channel between 1 and 2 appeared to be very rocky, and +shoal: between 1 and the reef r there is probably a clear channel +of about a mile wide: the north-east end of 1 has a reef which +extends off it for half a mile.</p> +<blockquote>(*Footnote. Many shoals, partly dry, occupy the space +to the northward and eastward of Howick's Group. Roe +manuscript.)</blockquote> +<p>All the islands are low and wooded, and surrounded by a coral +reef of small extent.</p> +<p>4 has a small islet off its west end.</p> +<p>5, 8, and 9 did not appear to have any reefs projecting from +them. 7 is probably two islands, with a reef extending for half a +mile on its western side. 6 is of larger size than the generality +of the low islands hereabout, Number 1 excepted: its centre is in +latitude 14 degrees 28 minutes, and longitude 144 degrees 45 +minutes. The position of Number 10 was not correctly +ascertained.</p> +<p>The peak of CAPE BOWEN is in latitude 14 degrees 34 minutes, +and longitude 144 degrees 35 minutes 40 seconds.</p> +<p>NOBLE ISLAND is a rock, having a sandy, or a coral beach at +its north-west end; although small it is very conspicuous; and, +when first seen from the southward, has the appearance of a rock +with a double rounded top.</p> +<p>The REEFS s, t, and u are unconnected; the north end of s, +lying six miles and a half due east from Point Barrow, was dry +for a considerable extent; t, one mile to the north, was covered; +but there is a dry sandy key on u, bearing from Point Barrow, +North 32 degrees East, six miles: some rocks showed themselves +above the water off its south end.</p> +<p>v and w may possibly be connected; the former was noticed to +extend for three miles, and the latter for nearly ten miles; +there was, however, a space of three miles between them, where a +channel may possibly exist. The channels between t and u, and +between v and w, appeared to be clear and deep.</p> +<p>The REEFS x, y, and Z, are probably parts of the barrier +reefs, for the sea was breaking very heavily upon their outer +edge; there were, however, considerable spaces where no breakers +appeared, some of which, being three or four miles wide, may +possibly be as many outlets to sea.</p> +<p>NINIAN BAY is a bight to the west of Point Barrow;* it is +about three miles deep, and has a small opening at the bottom; in +crossing it we had not more water than four fathoms, and within +our course it appeared to be very shoal: there is doubtless a +channel leading to the opening; but, to the name of harbour or +port, it has not the slightest pretension: it was named Port +Ninian by Lieutenant Jeffreys: off the north end of Point Barrow +are two rocky islands.</p> +<blockquote>(*Footnote. Off Point Barrow, the shoals lie from +half to one mile nearer the shore, than they are laid down; and +one mile and three quarters North 55 degrees East from the point +are two small patches of coral, under water; they bear North-East +and South-West from each other and are probably one tenth of a +mile apart. Roe manuscript.)</blockquote> +<p>Between Ninian Bay and Cape Melville the coast is high and +rocky, but appeared to be fronted by a reef, which in some places +extends for a mile and a half from the shore; in this interval +there are two or three sandy beaches, but I doubt the +practicability of landing upon them in a boat. The summit and +sides of the hills that form the promontory, of which Cape +Melville is the extreme, are of most remarkable appearance, being +covered with heaps of rounded stones of very large size (volume +1.)</p> +<p>CAPE MELVILLE, sloping off into the sea to the north, +terminates this remarkable promontory in latitude 14 degrees 9 +minutes 30 seconds, and longitude 144 degrees 24 minutes 50 +seconds: the coast trends round it to the South-South-West and +South-West, and forms Bathurst Bay, which is nine miles and a +half deep, and thirteen wide, the western side being formed by +Flinders' Group. A reef extends for more than two miles off Cape +Melville in a North West by North direction, on which some +rounded stones, similar to those upon the land, are heaped up +above the sea: there is also one of these heaps at the extremity +of the reef, outside, and within a quarter of a mile of which we +had fourteen fathoms water: there are two other similar heaps +within the outer pile, and between them there are possibly clear +passages, but they should not be attempted without great caution. +It was remarked that the breeze always freshened on passing round +this cape.</p> +<p>PIPON ISLANDS, two small islets, of which the easternmost is +the largest, are in latitude 14 degrees 6 minutes 40 seconds, +longitude 144 degrees 26 minutes 5 seconds; they are surrounded +by a reef, lying two miles and a half from the cape; between them +and the reef that extends from the cape, there is a safe and deep +passage of more than a mile wide.</p> +<p>The south-east side of Bathurst Bay is shoal. At the bottom +are two openings, with some projecting land between them, at the +extremity of which there is a peak; these openings are doubtless +rivulets of considerable size, and take their rise from the high +land at the back of Cape Bowen.</p> +<p>FLINDERS' GROUP forms the west head of Bathurst Bay; they are +high and rocky, and consist of four islands, two of which are +three miles long. The peak of the largest island, in latitude 14 +degrees 11 minutes 5 seconds, and longitude 144 degrees 12 +minutes 5 seconds, is visible from a distance of twelve or +thirteen leagues; and the higher parts of the islands may be seen +generally at seven or eight leagues.</p> +<p>On the eastern side of the northernmost island there is a bay +fronted by a coral reef, but it is too exposed to the prevailing +winds to be safe. It is here that the Frederick (merchant ship) +was wrecked in 1818.</p> +<p>CAPE FLINDERS, in latitude 14 degrees 8 minutes, longitude 144 +degrees 10 minutes 20 seconds, is the north extremity of the +island; it may be passed close to with twelve fathoms: the best +anchorage is under the flat-topped hill, at a quarter of a mile +from the shore, in ten fathoms mud. The variation is 5 degrees 20 +minutes East. It is high water at full and change at a quarter +past nine.</p> +<p>In the offing is a low wooded island of more than a mile in +diameter.</p> +<p>CLACK'S ISLAND is a high rock, situated at the south-east end +of reef b, in latitude 14 degrees 4 minutes 45 seconds, and +longitude 144 degrees 11 minutes 45 seconds, and, being a bare +black rock, with no apparent vegetation, is a conspicuous object: +there is another rock on its north-east end. (See above.) The +reef is of circular shape, and three miles in diameter.</p> +<p>The shoal marked a was not seen by us. H.M. sloop Satellite +struck upon it in June, 1822, on her passage to India. The +following marks for it were obligingly communicated to me by +Captain M.J. Currie, of H.M. sloop Satellite, who sent a boat to +examine it upon her second voyage the following year:</p> +<p>"In crossing the northern part of Bathurst Bay, and nearly in +mid-channel, between Cape Flinders and the low wooded island, +there is a small patch of sunken rocks, lying north and south, +not more than a cable's length in extent, the least water being +one fathom. The Satellite grounded on them in two fathoms, in +June, 1822. I sent a boat to examine this shoal in making the +same passage in August, 1823, and found it to be under the +following bearings (by compass): namely, Cape Flinders, +South-West by West 3/4 West; the high peak on the south-east part +of Flinders' Group, South 1/4 West; the highest of Clack's +Islands, North-West 1/2 West, and Cape Melville East 1/2 South. +It is a dangerous shoal in running for Cape Flinders, but may be +easily avoided by steering near the low wooded island, to the +north-east of the cape, or by keeping the shore of Flinders' +Group on board, which is perhaps preferable. The variation is 5 +degrees 40 minutes East."*</p> +<blockquote>(*Footnote. The shoal is in a line with, and half way +between, the flat-topped hill on the north island of Flinders' +Group, and the centre of the low wooded island, and is nearly +joined to some shoal-water that extends for two miles from the +latter island. Roe manuscript.)</blockquote> +<p>PRINCESS CHARLOTTE'S BAY is an extensive bight in the coast, +twenty-two miles deep, and thirty-one broad; its shores are low, +and at the bottom in latitude 14 degrees 29 minutes there is a +mangrove opening.</p> +<p>JANE'S TABLE LAND, in latitude 14 degrees 29 minutes 15 +seconds and longitude 144 degrees 4 minutes 45 seconds, is a +remarkable flat-topped hill at the bottom of the bay, rising +abruptly from the surrounding low land: it is about five miles +from the coast; its summit, by the angle it subtended, is about a +mile in length. Excepting this hill, no other high land was seen +at the bottom of the bay.</p> +<p>On the western side the land rises to a moderate height, and +forms a bank of about ten miles in extent, but this was not +visible for more than three or four leagues. To the north of this +no part of the interior can be seen until in latitude 13 degrees +55 minutes, when the south end of a ridge of hills commences at +about seven miles behind the beach, which it gradually approaches +until it reaches the coast in 13 degrees 35 minutes, and is +terminated by a round hill; the coast then extends with a low +sandy beach for eleven miles to Cape Sidmouth.</p> +<p>c is a covered reef of coral, extending North-East by East and +South-West by West for seventeen miles: its south-west end bears +North 75 degrees West, twelve miles and a half, from Cape +Flinders.</p> +<p>d, e, and f, are three coral banks, having dry sandy keys on +each; they are of circular shape, and from a mile to a third of a +mile in diameter: d is the largest, and bears nearly due-west +from Cape Flinders, from which it is distant twelve miles and a +half.</p> +<p>g and h are two coral reefs; but it was not ascertained +whether they are connected to each other or not: they may also be +joined to c, and indeed this supposition is very likely to be +correct, for we found the water quite smooth, and little or no +set of tide on passing them. On the southwest extremity of g, in +latitude 14 degrees 1 minute 20 seconds, longitude 143 degrees 50 +minutes, there is a dry sandy key, as there is also upon h, but +on the latter there are also rocks, and the sand is dry for four +or five miles along its north-west side: the south-west end of h +is in latitude 13 degrees 59 minutes, longitude 143 degrees 49 +minutes.</p> +<p>i is a circular coral reef, of a mile and a quarter in +diameter, and has a dry sandy key at its north-west end; it is +two miles North-North-West from the south-west end of h.</p> +<p>k is a small reef with a sandy key upon it, four miles to the +east of Pelican Island.</p> +<p>PELICAN ISLAND is on the north-west side of a reef of more +than a mile and a half long: it is very small, but remarkable for +having two clumps of trees, which at a distance give it the +appearance of being two small islets: it is low, and, like the +other islands of its character, may be seen at ten miles from the +deck: its latitude is 13 degrees 54 minutes 45 seconds, and +longitude 143 degrees 46 minutes. (See volume 1.)</p> +<p>l is a long narrow coral reef, extending in a North-North-East +direction: it is thirteen miles in extent, but generally not more +than one-third of a mile wide: its greatest width is not more +than a mile and a half: its south-west end is five miles and +three-quarters north from Pelican Island.</p> +<p>m is an extensive coral reef, extending for fifteen miles in +North East by North direction, parallel with l, from which it is +separated by a channel of from one to two miles wide. At its +south-west end, where there is an extensive dry sandy key, and +some dry rocks, it is two miles wide: but towards its northern +end it tapers away to the breadth of a quarter of a mile. The +south trend of its south-west end lies seven miles North 44 +degrees West from Pelican Island, and four miles from Island 2 of +Claremont Isles.</p> +<p>n is another extensive reef, which may possibly be connected +with m. At its westernmost end, about four miles North by East +1/2 East from the west end of m., is a dry sand of small +extent.</p> +<p>It was considered probable that there was a safe passage +between the reefs l and m. We steered so far as to see the +termination of the latter, upon which the sea was breaking, which +afforded a proof of its not being connected with the former, +which also the dark colour of the water sufficiently +indicated.</p> +<p>The Mermaid was nearly lost in attempting to cross the latter +reef. (Volume 1.)</p> +<p>CLAREMONT ISLES consist of five small islets, numbered from 1 +to 5; they are of coral formation, and are covered with small +brushwood; they are from six to seven miles apart, excepting 4 +and 5, which are separated by a channel only a mile and a half +wide: off the east and south-east end of 5, a coral reef extends +for a mile and a half to the eastward, having two dry rocks on +its north-east end.</p> +<p><b>COLUMN 1: CLAREMONT ISLE.<br> +COLUMN 2: LATITUDE IN DEGREES, MINUTES, SECONDS.<br> +COLUMN 3: LONGITUDE IN DEGREES, MINUTES, SECONDS.</b></p> +<p>Number 1 : 13 56 20 : 143 40 30.<br> +Number 2 : 13 51 30 : 143 37 30.<br> +Number 3 : 13 46 45 : 143 33 20.<br> +Number 4 : 13 40 00 : 143 36 20.</p> +<p>Reef o extends in an east and west direction for a mile and a +half, and at a mile farther there is another reef, that may be +connected to it; o has a dry sand near its western extremity, in +latitude 13 degrees 34 minutes, and longitude 143 degrees 38 +minutes 45 seconds.</p> +<p>Islet 6, in latitude 13 degrees 29 minutes, longitude 143 +degrees 38 minutes 26 seconds, is a very small, low, woody islet, +with a reef extending for three-quarters of a mile off its north +and south ends.</p> +<p>A reef lies two miles and one-third North 72 1/2 degrees West +from islet 6, and South 59 degrees East from the summit of Cape +Sidmouth; this reef is not more than a quarter of a mile in +extent, and has a rock in its centre, that is uncovered at half +tide; it is a brown looking shoal, and therefore of dangerous +approach.</p> +<p>Off ROUND HILL there is a sandbank covered by the sea; it lies +about two miles from the shore, and about East-North-East from +Round Hill summit.</p> +<p>q is a small, brown, rocky shoal, that is not visible until +close to it; it bears South 60 degrees East, four miles from the +extremity of Cape Sidmouth.</p> +<p>CAPE SIDMOUTH is rather an elevated point, having higher land +behind it; and at about nine miles in the interior, to the +West-North-West, there is a rounded summit: at the extremity of +the cape there are two remarkable lumps on the land, in latitude +13 degrees 24 minutes 20 seconds, and longitude 143 degrees 30 +minutes. The cape is fronted by several rocky shoals, and ought +not to be approached within four miles.</p> +<p>r is a sandbank, on which we had two and a half fathoms; but +from the nature of the other neighbouring reefs, s and t, it is +perhaps rocky also, and may be connected with them. It lies four +miles and a quarter North 32 degrees East from Cape Sidmouth, and +West 1/2 North from islet 7.</p> +<p>6 1/2 and 7 are two bare sandy islets, situated at the north +ends of reefs extending in a North-North-West direction; the reef +off the islet 6 1/2 is four miles and a half in length, and that +off 7 is two miles and a half long: 6 1/2 is in latitude 13 +degrees 23 minutes 20 seconds, longitude 143 degrees 39 minutes +30 seconds; 7, in latitude 13 degrees 21 minutes 20 seconds, and +longitude 143 degrees 36 minutes 10 seconds.</p> +<p>8 and 9 are two low, woody islets of about a mile and a +quarter in diameter. Some shoal marks on the water were observed +opposite these islands, but their existence was not ascertained. +Both the islets are surrounded by coral reefs, of small +extent.</p> +<p>NIGHT ISLAND, its north end in latitude 13 degrees 13 minutes +8 seconds, and longitude 143 degrees 28 minutes 40 seconds, is a +low woody island, two miles long, but not more than half a mile +wide; it is surrounded by a coral reef, that does not extend more +than a quarter of a mile from its northern end. On the south +side, and within it, the space seemed to be much occupied by +reefs, but they were not distinctly made out, on account of the +thickness of the weather. There was also the appearance of a +covered shoal, bearing North 55 degrees East from the north end +of the island, distant four miles.*</p> +<blockquote>(*Footnote. Observed many shoals to the North-West of +Night Island; one bore East-North-East, two miles and a half from +its north point; we saw much shoal water to seaward. Roe +manuscript.)</blockquote> +<p>u and w are two reefs; the former, which was dry when we +passed, lies six miles North 18 degrees West from the north end +of Night Island; there is also a small rock detached from it, +which is not visible until close to it.</p> +<p>v is a covered coral reef, of about a mile and a quarter in +extent; its centre is in 13 degrees 1 minute latitude.</p> +<p>SHERRARD'S ISLETS are low and bushy, and surrounded by a rocky +shoal extending for a mile to the South-East; the +south-westernmost is in 12 degrees 58 minutes 10 seconds +latitude, and 143 degrees 30 minutes 15 seconds longitude.</p> +<p>10 is a low wooded islet, in latitude 12 degrees 53 minutes 10 +seconds, on a reef of small extent; abreast of it is a rocky +islet, lying about a mile and a half south from CAPE DIRECTION; +off its east end is a smaller rock.</p> +<p>The coast between Cape Sidmouth and Cape Direction is rather +high, and the shore is formed by a sandy beach. Ten miles +North-West from the former cape is an opening in the hills; the +high land then continues to the northward to Cape Direction, +which has a peak near its extremity, close off which are two +small rocks, but the depth at a mile and a half off is thirteen +fathoms. The peak is in latitude 12 degrees 51 minutes 55 +seconds, and longitude 143 degrees 26 minutes 10 seconds.*</p> +<blockquote>(*Footnote. Shoal water extends for about six miles +round the north side of Cape Direction. Roe +manuscript.)</blockquote> +<p>x; the position of this reef was not precisely ascertained; it +appeared to be about two miles to the North-North-West of the +extremity of the cape.</p> +<p>y and z are two covered reefs, of not more than a mile in +extent; they are separated from each other by a channel a mile +wide; y is four miles and a half North 51 degrees East from Cape +Direction.</p> +<p>a and b are also covered reefs; the former is a mile and a +quarter in length; the latter extends for two miles in an east +direction, and is a mile broad: a bears nearly east, nine miles, +from a peaked hill on the shore, and is five miles to the south +of Cape Weymouth.</p> +<p>LLOYD'S BAY was not examined; it appeared to have a +considerable opening at its south-west end, where the land was +very low; the hilly country to the south of Cape Direction also +ceases, and there is a considerable space of low land between +them and the south end of Cape Weymouth range.</p> +<p>CAPE WEYMOUTH is an elevated point, sloping off from a high +summit; its extreme is in latitude 12 degrees 37 minutes 15 +seconds, and longitude 143 degrees 20 minutes 35 seconds. +RESTORATION ISLAND, off the cape, is high, and of conical shape; +about a mile East-South-East from it is a small rocky islet. The +coast then extends towards Bolt Head, and forms several +sinuosities, one of which is WEYMOUTH BAY of Captain Cook; the +shores of the bay were not well examined.*</p> +<blockquote>(*Footnote. There is a dry sand four or five miles +North-West from Cape Weymouth. Roe manuscript.)</blockquote> +<p>FAIR CAPE, so named by Lieutenant Bligh, is a projection of +high land, in latitude 12 degrees 25 minutes, longitude 143 +degrees 11 minutes 15 seconds: it has a reef off it according to +Lieutenant Jeffrey's account, but its situation does not appear +to have been correctly ascertained: we did not see it.</p> +<p>BOLT HEAD is the north-west end of the high land at the south +end of TEMPLE BAY. It is here that the high land terminates; the +coast to the northward being very low and sandy; with the +exception of CAPE GRENVILLE, which is the rocky projection that +forms the north extremity of Temple Bay. A little to the south of +the cape is INDIAN BAY of Lieutenant Bligh. The latitude of Cape +Grenville's east trend is 11 degrees 57 minutes 30 seconds, its +longitude 143 degrees 8 minutes.</p> +<p>c is a coral reef, with a dry sandy key at its northern end, +in latitude 12 degrees 35 minutes 20 seconds, longitude 143 +degrees 25 minutes 15 seconds; it is about two miles long.</p> +<p>d, a small oval-shaped reef in the channel between c and e: it +is covered, and has perhaps twelve feet water over it.</p> +<p>e is an extensive coral reef, fourteen miles long, commencing +in latitude 12 degrees 32 1/2 minutes, and extending to 12 +degrees 24 minutes; and in longitude 143 degrees 16 minutes: it +is entirely covered, except a few dry rocks at its north-west +end: the south-eastern extremity of the reef is perhaps three or +four miles wide, but its eastern termination was not clearly +distinguished.</p> +<p>f is a small reef, about three miles South-West from QUOIN +ISLAND, which is a small wedge-shaped rock: it is in the +neighbourhood of this reef that the merchant ship, Morning Star, +was lost. Quoin Island is in latitude 12 degrees 24 minutes, and +longitude 143 degrees 23 minutes 50 seconds.</p> +<p>g is a coral reef, ten miles long, and from one to two broad; +having a dry rock upon it (in latitude 12 degrees 18 minutes 20 +seconds, and longitude 143 degrees 14 minutes 35 seconds) about +three miles from its north end.</p> +<p>FORBES' ISLANDS are high and rocky, but appeared to be clothed +with vegetation; the group occupies a space of about two miles. +The summit of Forbes' Island is in latitude 12 degrees 16 minutes +35 seconds, and longitude 143 degrees 18 minutes 50 seconds.</p> +<p>h, a coral reef, with some dry rocks near its north end, is +about one mile long, and separated from i by a narrow pass. The +south end of h bears from the summit of Forbes' Island West 1/4 +South seven miles.</p> +<p>i and k, coral reefs, lying North-West, having a very narrow +channel between them; the former is covered, but the latter has a +dry sandy key at its north-west end, in latitude 12 degrees 12 +minutes 20 seconds, and longitude 143 degrees 10 minutes 5 +seconds.</p> +<p>PIPER'S ISLETS are four low bushy islets upon two circular +reefs, with a passage separating them of a quarter of a mile +wide; the reefs have each two islets upon them, and a dry rocky +key round their western edge: the centre of the narrowest part of +the channel between them is twelve and a half fathoms deep, but +abreast the south end of the south-easternmost shoal there is ten +and a half fathoms.</p> +<p>l, a circular coral reef, a mile and a half in diameter, with +a dry rock at its east end, in latitude 12 degrees 9 minutes 5 +seconds, and longitude 143 degrees 11 minutes.</p> +<p>YOUNG ISLAND, a small islet on a coral reef of about half a +mile in extent, in latitude 12 degrees 6 minutes 50 seconds, and +longitude 143 degrees 7 minutes. (See volume 1.)</p> +<p>m, a coral reef, about two and a half miles long, having a dry +rock at its north end; it bears South 40 degrees West, three +miles from the summit of Haggerston's Island.</p> +<p>n, an extensive, irregular-shaped, coral reef, seven miles +long, and from one to four broad; it is separated from o by a +narrow tortuous channel, but not safe to pass through: both n and +o are covered. There is a safe passage between these reefs and +Haggerston's Island, of a mile and a half wide; but there is a +small reef detached from the north-west end of n, which should be +avoided, although there is probably sufficient depth of water +over it for any ship: it was seen from the summit of the island, +from whence another coral patch was observed at about one mile to +the westward, of which we saw no signs.</p> +<p>p is a small reef, of about a mile and a quarter in extent; it +was seen from the summit of Haggerston's Island, as was also +another reef, seven miles South by East from it: the positions of +these reefs are doubtful.</p> +<p>HAGGERSTON'S ISLAND is high and rocky; the summit is in +latitude 12 degrees 1 minute 40 seconds, and longitude 143 +degrees 12 minutes; it is situated at the South-South-West +extremity of a coral reef, of nearly two miles in length; its +northern side is furnished with some trees and a sandy beach. At +the north end of the reef are two dry patches of sand and rocks. +It is separated from the islands of Sir Everard Home's Group by a +channel nearly three miles wide, quite free from danger; but in +passing through it, the tide or current sets to the +North-North-West, round the reef off Haggerston's Island. (See +volume 1.)</p> +<p>SIR EVERARD HOME'S GROUP consists of six islands: the two +south-westernmost are rocky, and one of them has two peaks upon +it, which, from the southward, have the appearance of being upon +the extremity of Cape Grenville: the south-easternmost has a +hillock, or clump of trees, at its south-east extremity, in +latitude 11 degrees 57 minutes 40 seconds, and longitude 143 +degrees 11 minutes. The outer part of this group is bold to, and +the islands may be approached, but the space within them appeared +to be rocky: there is a passage between the group and Cape +Grenville. The merchant ship Lady Elliot in passing through it, +found overfalls with eighteen fathoms.</p> +<p>Round Cape Grenville is MARGARET BAY, fronted by SUNDAY +ISLAND, elevated and rocky, but not so high as Haggerston's +Island, with good anchorage under its lee.</p> +<p>q is a covered reef of about a mile in extent, in latitude 11 +degrees 55 minutes, five or six miles to the East-North-East of +Sir Everard Home's Group.</p> +<p>SIR CHARLES HARDY'S ISLANDS are high and rocky, and may be +seen five or six leagues off; the summit is in latitude 11 +degrees 53 minutes 20 seconds, and longitude 143 degrees 23 +minutes 40 seconds.</p> +<p>r is a covered reef; and s, a reef, with a dry sandy key upon +it.</p> +<p>COCKBURN ISLES are rocky, and may be seen four leagues +off.*</p> +<blockquote>(*Footnote. There is a dry sand bearing South-West by +West 1/2 West, two miles and a half from the southernmost +Cockburn Island, and there are many shoals of great extent to the +northward of the group. Roe manuscript.)</blockquote> +<p>t and u are two reefs that were seen at a distance, and +appeared to be detached from each other.</p> +<p>BIRD ISLES (the Lagoon Islands of Lieutenant Bligh) consist of +three low bushy islets encompassed by a reef: the islands are at +the outer verge of the reef, and may be passed within a quarter +of a mile; the north-east island is in latitude 11 degrees 44 +minutes 15 seconds, and longitude 142 degrees 58 minutes 45 +seconds.</p> +<p>McARTHUR'S ISLES consist of four low bushy islets, of which +two are very small; they are encompassed by a reef of more than +three miles long, and are separated from the Bird Isles by a +channel three miles and a half wide.</p> +<p>HANNIBAL'S ISLES are three in number, low and covered with +bushes, the easternmost is near the extremity of the reef +encircling the whole, and is in latitude 11 degrees 34 minutes 15 +seconds, and longitude 142 degrees 51 minutes 20 seconds.*</p> +<blockquote>(*Footnote. There is a dry sand at one mile and +three-quarters, and another at two miles and a half +North-North-West from North Hannibal Island.)</blockquote> +<p>v and w; these shoals are separated by a safe channel of a +mile and a quarter wide; v is circular, and has a dry sand at its +north-west edge, and a rocky key at its south-west end; the +channel between it and Hannibal's Islands is two miles and a half +wide: w is nearly four miles long, and is entirely covered; the +course between them is west, but, by hauling close round the east +end of v, a West by North 1/2 North course will carry a vessel a +quarter of a mile to leeward of the west end of w; the north-west +extreme of w is three miles and a quarter South 35 degrees West +from Islet 1.</p> +<p>The islets 1 and 2 are contained in a triangular-shaped reef, +of about a mile and three quarters in extent; they are covered +with low trees. Islet 1 is in latitude 11 degrees 28 minutes 45 +seconds. Number 3 is a sandy islet crowned with bushes at the +north-west end of a coral reef of about a mile and a half in +length. Between the two latter reefs there appeared to be a +channel of a mile wide in the direction of about North-West. 4, +5, and 6, are sandy islets covered with bushes, on small detached +reefs, with, apparently, a passage between each: 4 is in latitude +11 degrees 22 minutes 30 seconds. 7, a small bushy island,* is +separated from CAIRNCROSS ISLAND by a channel two miles wide. The +latter is a small woody island, situated at the north-west end of +a coral reef, more than two miles long and one broad; the +north-west point of the reef runs off with a sharp point for +about a quarter of a mile from the islet. There is good anchorage +under it, but the depth is fifteen fathoms, and the sea is rather +heavy at times with the tide setting against the wind; the +latitude of its centre is 11 degrees 33 minutes 30 seconds, and +its longitude 142 degrees 50 minutes 35 seconds. (See volume 1 +and above.)</p> +<blockquote>(*Footnote. A rocky reef extends for two miles to the +southward of islet 7. Roe manuscript.)</blockquote> +<p>8, 9, and 10, are low, woody islets: 8 is five miles to the +eastward of Cairncross Island; 9 and 10 are to the northward of +8.</p> +<p>11 is also low and woody, but its position was not clearly +ascertained.</p> +<p>ORFORDNESS is a sandy projection of the coast under +Pudding-pan Hill (of Bligh) the shape of which, being +flat-topped, is very remarkable: the hill is in latitude 11 +degrees 18 minutes 30 seconds, and longitude 142 degrees 43 +minutes 35 seconds.</p> +<p>The country between Cape Grenville and Cape York is low and +sandy, with but few sinuosities in its coast line: it is exposed +to the trade wind, which often blows with great strength, from +South-East and South-East by East.</p> +<p>ESCAPE RIVER, in 10 degrees 57 1/2 minutes, is an opening in +the land of one mile in breadth, trending in for two or three +miles, when it turns to the north, and is concealed from the +view; the land on the north side of the entrance is probably an +island, for an opening was observed in Newcastle Bay, trending to +the south, which may communicate with the river. The entrance is +defended by a bar, on which the Mermaid was nearly lost. (Volume +1.) The deepest channel may probably be near the south head, +which is rocky. The banks on the south side are wooded, and +present an inviting aspect.</p> +<p>NEWCASTLE BAY is nine miles in extent by six deep; its shores +are low, and apparently of a sandy character; at the bottom there +is a considerable opening bearing West 1/4 North eight miles and +a half from Turtle Island.</p> +<p>Off the south head of the bay is TURTLE ISLAND, a small rocky +islet on the east side of an extensive reef, in latitude 10 +degrees 54 minutes, and longitude 142 degrees 38 minutes 40 +seconds; it is separated by a channel three miles wide from reef +x, which has a dry sand at its north end, in latitude 10 degrees +53 minutes, and longitude 142 degrees 42 minutes, it has also +some dry rocks and a mangrove bush on the inner part of its south +end.</p> +<p>Four miles to the north of x are two shoals y and Z, both of +which are covered; y is two miles and a half long, and three +miles and a quarter; neither of them appeared to be a mile in +width; the north-west end of z, when in a line with Mount +Adolphus, bears North 19 degrees West.</p> +<p>Off the north head of Newcastle Bay, which forms the +south-east trend of the land of Cape York, is a group of high +rocky islands, ALBANY ISLES; and immediately off the point is a +reef, which extends for about a mile; half a mile without its +edge, we had ten fathoms.</p> +<p>The islets 12, 13, and 15, were only seen at a distance.</p> +<p>THE BROTHERS, so called in Lieutenant Bligh's chart, are two +high rocks upon a reef.</p> +<p>ALBANY ISLES contain six islands, of which one only is of +large size; the easternmost has a small peak, and a reef extends +for less than a quarter of a mile from it; the peak is in +latitude 10 degrees 43 minutes 45 seconds, and longitude 142 +degrees 35 minutes 5 seconds.</p> +<p>YORK ISLES is a group about seven miles from the mainland; the +principal island, which is not more than two miles long, has a +very conspicuous flat-topped hill upon it, MOUNT ADOLPHUS,* in +latitude 10 degrees 38 minutes 20 seconds, and longitude 142 +degrees 36 minutes 25 seconds. Off the south-east end of this +island are two rocky islets, the southernmost of which is more +than a mile distant; the northern group of the York Isles are +laid down from Captain Flinders.</p> +<blockquote>(*Footnote. There is a bay on the west side or Mount +Adolphus, but it appeared shoal. Roe manuscript.)</blockquote> +<p>CAPE YORK, the northernmost land of New South Wales, has a +conical hill half a mile within its extremity, the situation of +which is in 10 degrees 42 minutes 40 seconds South, and 142 +degrees 28 minutes 50 seconds East of Greenwich. There is also an +island close to the point with a conical hill upon it, which has +perhaps been hitherto taken for the cape; from which it is +separated by a shoal strait half a mile wide; the latitude of the +summit is 10 degrees 41 minutes 35 seconds, and longitude 142 +degrees 28 minutes 25 seconds. From this island a considerable +shoal extends to the westward for six miles towards a peaked hill +on the extremity of a point. In the centre of this shoal are some +dry rocks.</p> +<p>At the distance of nearly five miles from the above island is +the rocky islet a, in latitude 10 degrees 36 minutes 50 seconds, +and longitude 142 degrees 27 minutes 45 seconds; it is of small +size, and surrounded by deep water; and, being easily seen from +the strait between Cape York and the York Isles, serves to direct +the course.</p> +<p>POSSESSION ISLES consist of nine or ten islets, of which 2 and +7 only are of large size, and neither of these are two miles +long; they are also higher than the others. Number 1 is a small +conical hill; 2 is hummocky; 3, 4, and 6, are very small; 5 makes +with a hollow in its centre, like the seat of a saddle. The +passage between 2 and the small islets 3 and 4 is the best; there +is six and seven fathoms water; but in passing this, it must be +recollected that the tide sets towards the islands on the +northern side.</p> +<p>ENDEAVOUR STRAIT is on the south side of Prince of Wales' +Islands: a shoal extends from Cape Cornwall (latitude 10 degrees +45 minutes 45 seconds, longitude 142 degrees 8 minutes 35 +seconds) to the westward, and is probably connected with a strip +of sand that stretches from Wallis' Isles to Shoal Cape. We +crossed it with the cape bearing about East, when the least depth +was four fathoms; but on many parts there are not more than three +fathoms. Variation 5 degrees 38 minutes West.</p> +<p>PRINCE OF WALES ISLANDS are much intersected by straits and +openings, that are very little known; there was an appearance of +a good port, a little to the South-West of HORNED HILL (latitude +10 degrees 36 minutes 35 seconds, longitude 142 degrees 15 +minutes) which may probably communicate with Wolf's Bay; the +strait to the south of Wednesday Island also offers a good port +in the eastern entrance of some rocky islands and without them is +the rock b, with some sunken dangers near it.</p> +<p>WEDNESDAY ISLAND; its north end, in latitude 10 degrees 30 +minutes 10 seconds, and longitude 142 degrees 15 minutes, may be +approached close, but a considerable shoal stretches off its +western side, the greater part of which is dry.</p> +<p>Off HAMMOND'S ISLAND is a high, conspicuous rock, bearing West +3/4 South, and five miles and three-quarters from the north end +of Wednesday Island. Captain Flinders passed through the strait +separating Wednesday Island from Hammond's Islands, and had four, +five, and six fathoms.</p> +<p>Abreast of the strait separating GOOD'S ISLAND from the latter +is the reef c, on which are several dry rocks, but abreast of it, +and one mile and one quarter from it, is the reef d,* which is +generally covered; the latter bears South 75 degrees West three +miles and a quarter from the rock off Hammond's Island, and about +North 45 degrees West two and a quarter miles from the opening +between Good and Hammond's Island; the marks for avoiding it are +given in the sailing directions.</p> +<blockquote>(*Footnote. d consists of three small detached +patches, that extend farther off than is at first observed. There +is also a narrow strip of rocks extending for a short distance +off the north-east end of the reef off Hammond's Island. Roe +manuscript.)</blockquote> +Abreast of Wednesday, Hammond, and Good's Islands, is the +NORTH-WEST REEF, an extensive coral bank, many parts of which are +dry; it is ten or eleven miles long; the channel between it and +the islands is from one mile and three-quarters to two miles and +a quarter wide. +<p>BOOBY ISLAND (latitude of its centre 10 degrees 36 minutes, +longitude 141 degrees 52 minutes 50 seconds) is a small rocky +islet of scarcely a third of a mile in diameter; its south-west +end has a shoal projecting from it for half a mile, but its other +sides are bold to. In a North 70 degrees East direction from it, +at the distance of two miles and three-quarters, is a sandbank +with three fathoms; it was discovered by the ships Claudine and +Mary, on their passage through Torres Strait, when it was named +LARPENT'S BANK.*</p> +<blockquote>(*Footnote. It is near the west end of a shoal of +five miles in length, extending in an east and west direction, a +few feet only below the surface of the water. Roe +manuscript.)</blockquote> +<hr align="center" width="20%"> +<h4>APPENDIX A. SECTION 3.</h4> +<p align="center">DESCRIPTION OF THE WINDS AND WEATHER, AND OF +THE PORTS AND COAST BETWEEN WESSEL'S ISLANDS AND CLARENCE +STRAIT.</p> +<p>In the sea that separates the land of New Guinea and the +islands of Timor Laut and Arroo from the north coast of +Australia, the winds are periodical, and are called the east and +west monsoons, for such is their direction in the mid-sea. Near +the Coast of New Holland the regularity of these winds is partly +suspended by the rarefied state of the atmosphere; this produces +land and sea-breezes, but the former are principally from the +quarter from which the winds are blowing in the mid sea. The +usual course of the winds near the coast in the months of April, +May, and June, is as follows: after a calm night, the land-wind +springs up at daylight from South or South-South-East; it then +usually freshens, but, as the sun gets higher, and the land +becomes heated, gradually decreases. At noon the sea-wind rushes +in towards the land, and generally blows fresh from East; at +sunset it veers to the North-East, and falls calm, which lasts +the whole night, so that if a ship, making a course, does not +keep at a moderate distance from the land, she is subject to +delay; she would not, however, probably have so fresh a breeze in +the day time. Later in the season of the easterly monsoon, in +August, September, and October, calms are frequent, and the heat +is sultry and oppressive; this weather sometimes lasts for a +fortnight or three weeks at a time. The easterly monsoon +commences about the 1st of April, with squally, rainy weather, +but, in a week or ten days, settles to fine weather and steady +winds in the offing, and regular land and sea breezes, as above +described, near the coast. It ceases about the latter end of +November or early part of December; the westerly monsoon may then +be expected to blow strong, and perhaps with regularity. This is +the rainy season, and is doubtless an unwholesome time; Captain +Flinders' crew experienced much sickness in his examination of +the Gulf of Carpentaria during this monsoon, but, when upon the +western side of the gulf, he thought that the fine weather then +experienced might be occasioned by the monsoon's blowing over the +land. In January and February the monsoon is at its strength, but +declines towards the end of the latter month, and in March +becomes variable, with dark, cloudy, and unsettled weather; the +wind is then generally from the South-West, but not at all +regular.</p> +<p>The current sets with the wind, and seldom exceeds a knot or a +knot and a half per hour; between Capes Wessel and Van Diemen it +is not stronger, and its course in the easterly monsoon, when +only we had any experience of it, was West: the strength is +probably increased or diminished by the state of the wind.</p> +<p>The tides are of trifling consequence; the flood comes from +the eastward, but rarely rises more than ten feet, or runs so +much as a mile and a half per hour. High water takes place at +full and change at Liverpool River, and Goulburn Island at six +o'clock, at the entrance of the Alligator Rivers in Van Diemen's +Gulf, at 8 hours 15 minutes, and at the south end of Apsley +Strait at 3 hours 25 minutes.* The flood-tide comes from the +eastward, excepting when its course is altered by local +circumstances; the rise is not more than eleven feet at the +springs.</p> +<blockquote>(*Footnote. In St. Asaph's Bay, Lieutenant Roe found +high-water take place at full and change at 5 hours 45 minutes; +and in King's Cove at 5 hours 15 minutes; at the latter place it +rose fourteen feet.)</blockquote> +<p>The variation of the compass in this interval is scarcely +affected by the ship's local attraction. Off Cape Wessel it is +between 3 and 4 degrees East; at Liverpool River about 1 3/4 +degrees East, at Goulburn Islands 2 degrees East, and off Cape +Van Diemen, not more than 1 1/2 degrees East.</p> +<p>The dip of the south end of the needle at Goulburn Island was +27 degrees 32 1/2 minutes.</p> +<p>When the survey of the Gulf of Carpentaria was completed by +Captain Flinders, his vessel proved to be so unfit for continuing +the examination of the north coast, that it was found necessary +to return to Port Jackson; and as he left it at the strait that +separates Point Dale from Wessel's Islands, which is called in my +chart BROWN'S STRAIT, he saw no part of the coast to the westward +of that point, nor did he even see Cape Wessel, the extremity of +the range of Wessel's Islands, which terminate in latitude 10 +degrees 59 1/4 minutes, and longitude 135 degrees 46 minutes 30 +seconds. The group consists of four islands, besides some of +smaller size to the southward of the northernmost, and also a few +on the eastern side of Brown's Strait; one of which is +Cunningham's Island, of Captain Flinders. CUMBERLAND STRAIT is in +latitude 11 degrees 25 minutes, longitude 135 degrees 31 +minutes.</p> +<p>POINT DALE, unless it is upon an island, appears to be the +east extremity of the north coast; its latitude is 11 degrees 36 +minutes, longitude 135 degrees 9 minutes: there are several rocky +islands of small size, lying off, encompassed by a reef, which +extends for eight miles North-North-East 1/2 East from the point. +In Brown's Strait the tide sets at the rate of three and a half +and four miles per hour; the flood runs to the southward through +the strait. To the westward of Point Dale the coast extends for +about sixty miles to the south-west to Castlereagh Bay; in which +space there are several openings in the beach, that are probably +small rivers: one, ten miles to the South-West, may be a strait +insulating Point Dale, and communicating with Arnhem Bay.</p> +<p>CASTLEREAGH BAY is forty miles wide, by about eighteen deep; +it is fronted by a group of straggling islands of low coral +formation, crowned with small trees and bushes: the centre of the +northernmost islet is in latitude 11 degrees 41 minutes 50 +seconds, longitude 134 degrees 10 minutes 5 seconds. To the +eastward of Cape Stewart, the western head of the bay, the coast +is very much indented, and probably contains several openings or +rivulets, particularly two at the bottom of the bay. The beach is +generally sandy, with rocky points, and the shore is wooded to +the beach; the interior was in no part visible over the coast +hills, which are very low and level. From the extremity of CAPE +STEWART, which is in latitude 11 degrees 56 minutes, and +longitude 133 degrees 48 minutes, a reef extends to the West by +North 1/2 North for eight miles and a half; having, at a mile +within the extremity, a low sandy key, with a small dry rock half +a mile to the eastward. Every other part of the reef is +covered.</p> +<p>To the westward of Cape Stewart is a sandy bay nearly eleven +leagues in extent, but not more than seven deep; near its western +end there is a small break in the beach, but it did not appear to +be of any consequence.</p> +<p>The extreme point of this bight is the eastern head of +LIVERPOOL RIVER, whose entrance is to the westward of Haul-round +Islet; which, as well as Entrance Island, is connected to the +above point by a shoal. Haul-round Islet is in latitude 11 +degrees 54 minutes, and longitude 134 degrees 14 minutes; +Entrance Island is in latitude 11 degrees 57 minutes, and +longitude 134 degrees 14 minutes 50 seconds. The entrance is from +one and a quarter to two miles wide. The reef extends for half a +mile from Haul-round Islet, close without which the water is +deep, the least depth in the entrance is five and three-quarter +fathoms; and, in some parts there are thirteen and fourteen +fathoms: at seven miles within Haul-round Islet, the depth +decreases to four fathoms, and then gradually shoals to three; +after which it varies in the channel of the river to between nine +and twelve feet at low water. A bar crosses the river at the low +mangrove island, over which there is not more than three feet at +low water; but, as the tide rises more than eight feet at the +springs, vessels drawing ten or eleven feet may proceed up the +river.</p> +<p>The stream runs in a very tortuous course for upwards of forty +miles, but as our examination was unassisted by bearings or +observations, it is laid down from an eye sketch. POINT +BRAITHWAITE, in latitude 11 degrees 45 minutes 50 seconds, and +longitude 133 degrees 55 minutes 20 seconds, is twenty miles to +the westward of Haul-round Islet; to the southward of it is +Junction Bay, which was not examined. For the next thirty miles +the coast is very much indented, and has some deep bays on either +side of Point Barclay, as also one to the eastward of Point +Turner, at the bottom of which an opening, a mile in width, is +probably a river. Here also the feature of the coast is altered, +being low and level to the eastward as far as Point Dale, without +a hill or rising ground in the interior to relieve its monotonous +appearance. At this place, however, a range of rocky hills, +WELLINGTON RANGE, commences, of about twenty miles in extent: +five miles behind it is the Tor (latitude 11 degrees 54 minutes, +and longitude 133 degrees 10 minutes 20 seconds) a solitary +pyramidal rock; and seven miles and a quarter West by South, from +the latter is a peak-topped hill.</p> +<p>The two latter are apparently unconnected with the range, on +which there are four remarkable ridges, of which the two +westernmost are the most remarkable.</p> +<p>GOULBURN ISLANDS consist of two islands, each being about +twenty miles in circumference; they are separated from each other +by a rocky strait three miles wide, which in most parts is deep +enough for a ship of any size to pass through; the latitude of +the centre of this strait is 11 degrees 32 minutes. Macquarie +Strait separates the southernmost from the main, and is nearly +two miles across: the depth in mid-channel being eighteen +fathoms: the latitude of Retaliation Point, which is on the +northern side of the strait, is in 11 degrees 39 minutes.</p> +<p>SOUTH WEST BAY affords good anchorage in five and six fathoms +at a mile from the shore, and vessels may anchor at a quarter of +a mile off the beach in three fathoms muddy bottom. At the north +end of the bay are the Bottle Rocks separated from the point by a +channel two and a quarter fathoms deep. The Bottle Rock was one +of our fixed points, and is placed in latitude 11 degrees 37 +minutes 24 seconds, and longitude 133 degrees 19 minutes 40 +seconds. The bay affords a convenient place for wooding and +watering; the latter may be had during the early months of the +dry season (as late as August) from a drain at the base of the +Pipe Clay Cliffs at the north end of the bay. There are also some +holes on Sims Island that contain water for a much later period. +The holes have been made by the Malays for the purpose of +collecting it.</p> +<p>MULLET BAY is on the west side of the north island, affording +good anchorage in the easterly monsoon in six and seven fathoms +mud, at a mile from the shore. The flood-tide here sets to the +eastward, and it is high water at full and change in the strait +at six o'clock; the rise of the tide is not more than five or six +feet. The north-east point of North Goulburn Island is in +latitude 11 degrees 26 minutes, longitude 133 degrees 26 +minutes.</p> +<p>From Macquarie Strait the land trends to the westward, and +north-westward to De Courcy Head, and forms but few sinuosities. +POINT BROGDEN, in latitude 11 degrees 30 minutes, the only +projection in this space, is remarkable for being higher than +usual, and for having a range of cliffs to the southward of the +point; with a solitary tree near its extremity, hence the land is +rocky towards De Courcy Head, which is a cliffy projection in +latitude 11 degrees 17 minutes 30 seconds; thence the shore +continues rocky to Cape Cockburn, a low rocky point, with a +conspicuous tree at its extremity. The point is wooded to within +a short distance of the sea, as is generally the case with the +shores of this coast. CAPE COCKBURN is in latitude 11 degrees 18 +minutes, and longitude 132 degrees 53 minutes 5 seconds.</p> +<p>MOUNTNORRIS BAY extends between Cape Cockburn and Cape Croker, +it is twenty-eight miles wide, and twenty-three deep. It contains +several islands, and is also fronted by a group, of which New +Year's Island, the latitude of whose centre is 10 degrees 55 +minutes, and longitude 133 degrees 0 minutes 36 seconds, is the +outermost; the others are named Oxley, Lawson, McCluer, Grant, +Templer, and Cowlard. They are straggling, and have wide and +apparently deep channels between them. Between New Year's and +McCluer's Islands, the channel is nearly eight miles wide and +eighteen and nineteen fathoms deep. A reef extends off the +north-west end of the latter island for nearly three miles, and +the ground is rocky and shoal for some distance off the +north-east end of Oxley's Island. Grant's Island is higher than +the others, which are merely small woody islets, the centre is in +11 degrees 10 minutes. At the north-east end of Mountnorris Bay +is MALAY BAY which is four miles wide and six deep; it affords +good anchorage in four and five fathoms in the centre: as it +offered no other inducement, we did not land upon any part of it. +Between Valentia Island and Point Annesley, the channel is more +than a mile wide and four fathoms deep. VALENTIA ISLAND has a +reef off its north point, and another off its south-east point, +each about a mile in extent.</p> +<p>COPELAND ISLAND is small and wedge-shaped, its summit is in +latitude 11 degrees 28 minutes, and longitude 132 degrees 43 +minutes; four miles and a quarter West-North-West from it is a +covered sandbank having nine feet water near its edge; it was not +quite certain whether it was joined to the land or not, from +which it is distant two miles and a half.</p> +<p>On the western side of the bay there is a strait two miles +wide separating Croker's Island from the main; it is ten or +eleven miles in length, and is navigable since the Malay fleet +were observed to pass through it.</p> +<p>CROKER'S ISLAND is twenty-one miles and a quarter from north +to south, and from two to five broad, its northern extremity is +in 10 degrees 58 minutes 30 seconds latitude, and 132 degrees 34 +minutes 10 seconds longitude; about three-quarters of a mile +within it there is a remarkable rocky knob: its south extreme is +in 11 degrees 19 1/4 minutes.</p> +<p>PALM BAY, on its western side, is an excellent anchorage in +the easterly monsoon; it is four miles and a half wide, and +nearly three deep. The shore is rocky for a mile off, and the +south point has a rocky shoal projecting to the West-North-West +for a mile and a quarter.</p> +<p>DARCH'S ISLAND is separated from Croker's Island by a +navigable strait two miles wide; near the reef at the north-east +end we had six fathoms, but in mid-channel the depth was as much +as eleven fathoms. A considerable reef projects off the east end +for more than a mile. The island is about two miles and +three-quarters long, and is thickly wooded; its north point is in +latitude 11 degrees 7 minutes 30 seconds.</p> +<p>RAFFLES BAY forms a good port during any season; it is seven +miles deep, and from two to three broad: beyond High Point the +depth is not more than three fathoms and a half. The anchorage is +however quite safe.</p> +<p>The bay to the eastward of Point Smith, which has a reef +extending from it for nearly a mile, has a shoal opening at its +bottom of very little importance. At the north-east end of the +bay, separated from the point by a channel a mile wide, and more +than five fathoms deep, is a small sandy island, with a reef +extending for a mile off its north end.</p> +<p>PORT ESSINGTON, the outer heads of which, Vashon Head and +Point Smith, are seven miles apart, is an extensive port, +thirteen miles and a quarter deep, and from five to three wide; +independent of its Inner Harbour, which, with a navigable +entrance of a mile wide, is five miles deep and four wide. The +port is not only capacious, but has very few shoals or dangers in +it.</p> +<p>On the western side, off Island Point, there are some rocks, +and also a reef projects for a mile off the bluff point that +forms the east head of Knocker's Bay. The western side of the +entrance to Inner Harbour, is also rocky and shoal for two-thirds +across, but near the opposite point* the depth is thirteen +fathoms.</p> +<blockquote>(*Footnote. This is Point Record of Captain Bremer, +see above.)</blockquote> +<p>On the eastern side of the port there is no danger beyond a +quarter of a mile from the shore, excepting a reef of rocks, some +of which are dry; this danger, when in a line with a remarkable +cliff two miles and a quarter to the south of Table Point, bears +East-South-East 1/2 East; close without them the depth is five +fathoms.</p> +<p>The INNER HARBOUR is divided into two basins which extend in +for two miles on either side of Middle Head, a cliffy projection, +surrounded by a rocky shore for a quarter of a mile off. The +anchorage between the entrance and Middle Head is in five and six +fathoms mud, and in the centre of the western basin the depth is +five fathoms mud. The shores are higher than usual, and are +varied by sandy beaches and cliffs, some of white and others of a +red colour. The western side of the port was not visited, and our +tracks and examinations were made principally on the opposite +shore. At the bottom of Knocker's Bay is a shoal mangrove +opening, of no importance. See volume 1. POINT SMITH is in +latitude 11 degrees 6 minutes 45 seconds, and longitude 132 +degrees 12 minutes 30 seconds.</p> +<p>VASHON HEAD has a considerable shoal projecting from it, and +extending into the bay to the westward which was called TREPANG +BAY. This bay has an opening at the bottom, that appeared to be +shoal. A small sandy island lies at the distance of a mile and +three-quarters from the shore; the reef projects into the sea for +nearly a mile farther, and apparently extends to the South-West +to the north head of POPHAM BAY, which has a small opening at the +bottom, but of shoal approach; good anchorage may be had in +Popham Bay in five and six fathoms, a little within the heads, +and as they bear North and South-South-West, it is well sheltered +in the easterly monsoon. Hence to CAPE DON is three miles and a +half. The latter cape is in latitude 11 degrees 19 minutes 30 +seconds, and longitude 131 degrees 45 minutes 30 seconds.</p> +<p>VAN DIEMEN'S GULF is seventy miles deep, and more than forty +broad. It has two outlets to sea; the one to the northward, +DUNDAS STRAIT, is sixteen miles wide and very deep; the other, +CLARENCE STRAIT, is seventeen miles wide, and communicates with +the sea round the south sides of Melville and Bathurst Islands: +it is probably not so safe as Dundas' Strait, on account of +Vernon's Isles, which lie in mid channel, near its western +end.</p> +<p>The north eastern side of Van Diemen's Gulf washes the south +side of Coburg Peninsula. It has several bays, and, to the +eastward of MOUNTS BEDWELL and Roe, the shore is fronted by SIR +GEORGE HOPE'S ISLANDS, forming a channel or port within them +twenty miles deep and from three to six broad; the entrance to it +is round the north end of GREENHILL ISLAND, which is separated +from the land of the peninsula, by a strait a mile and a half +wide: the depth in mid-channel, for the shore on either side for +half a mile is shoal and rocky, is eighteen fathoms, and within +it the bottom is six, seven, and eight fathoms deep, and +principally of mud. This strait is in latitude 11 degrees 35 +minutes.</p> +<p>The eastern side has several openings in it, but the shores +are very low, and of shoal approach. At its south-east end are +the two (and probably three) Alligator Rivers; the westernmost +(or centre) is fronted by FIELD ISLAND, the centre of which is in +12 degrees 6 minutes latitude, and 132 degrees 25 minutes 10 +seconds longitude. These rivers have been described in the +narrative. See volume 1. The bottom of the gulf is very low, and +forms two bights, separated by a point that projects for seven or +eight miles.</p> +<p>In the neighbourhood of the rivers the country is sprinkled +with wooded hills, that extend in a straggling chain towards +Wellington Range, of which they might be considered a part: but +between the rivers and Clarence Strait the country is low and +flat, and only protected from inroads of the sea by a barrier of +sandhills, beyond which not a vestige of the interior could be +seen.</p> +<p>CLARENCE STRAIT separates Bathurst and Melville Islands from +the mainland: it is seventy-five miles long, and from seventeen +to thirty-five wide. The narrowest part is at about its centre, +between Cape Gambier and Cape Eldon, and in this space is a group +of four low rocky islands, covered with mangroves (Vernon's +Islands) from which considerable reefs extend towards either +shore.</p> +<p>The best channel is probably on the northern side, near Cape +Gambier, which is in latitude 11 degrees 56 minutes 20 seconds; +and there also appeared to be a wide and safe channel on the +south side; but the neighbourhood of Vernon's Islands is rocky. +The flood-tide sets to the eastward into the gulf.</p> +<p>MELVILLE ISLAND is of considerable size, and forms the western +side of Van Diemen's Gulf; its greatest length from Cape Van +Diemen to Cape Keith being seventy-two miles, and its greatest +breadth thirty-eight miles; its circumference is two hundred +miles.</p> +<p>We did not land on any part of it, excepting in the entrance +of Apsley Strait, at Luxmoore Head (latitude 11 degrees 21 +minutes, longitude 130 degrees 22 minutes) from which we were +driven by the natives. It appeared fertile and more elevated than +the coast to the eastward, and to possess several good harbours, +particularly Apsley Strait, besides several bays on its north +coast; and from the appearance of the land on its east side, and +the extent and abrupt shape of the hills, it is probable that +there may be a port there also. BRENTON BAY is the mouth of a +small inlet, which may probably prove to be a fresh-water stream; +and the bottom of LETHBRIDGE BAY appeared likely to yield one +also. The hills and coast are wooded to the brink of the cliffs +and sandy beaches that vary the northern shores of Melville +Island. The most unproductive part appeared to be the narrow +strip that extends towards Cape Van Diemen. On either side of the +point, near Karslake Island, is a bay, and at the bottom of each +there is an opening in the land, like those of Brenton and +Lethbridge Bays.</p> +<p>The western trend of CAPE VAN DIEMEN is in latitude 11 degrees +8 minutes 15 seconds, and longitude 130 degrees 20 minutes 30 +seconds. The coast to the south-east of the cape is formed by a +range of cliffs, extending uninterruptedly for seven miles, of a +most remarkable white appearance, whiter even than the usual +colour of the pipe-clay cliffs to the eastward. Cape Van Diemen +is a low sandy point, with a shoal spit projecting from it for +four miles, within half a mile of the extremity of which we had +no bottom with ten fathoms: from this a very considerable shoal +(MERMAID'S SHOAL) extends to the westward and south-westward for +seventeen miles; and, curving round to PIPER'S HEAD, forms the +northern limit of the entrance to Apsley Strait: its western edge +is rather steep; we coasted along it, and had overfalls between +ten and four fathoms near its edge. It is not only possible, but +very likely, that there are channels through it, but the most +direct channel is round its south side, across the bar, on which +there is (at low water) five fathoms. To sail into APSLEY STRAIT +by this channel, if coming from the westward, steer in on the +parallel of 11 degrees 15 minutes, until the northern part of +Bathurst Island is seen: when the western trend of the island +bears South, you will be abreast of the west extremity of the +shoal off Cape Van Diemen. Steering on, you will see Piper's +Head, a cliffy point, forming the north entrance to the strait, +which must be kept upon the bearing of East by North, until the +low, sandy, south point of the strait's entrance* is in a line +with the summit of LUXMOORE HEAD, a remarkable flat-topped hill +on the eastern side of the strait, bearing South 59 degrees East. +Then steer East by South, keeping the lead going, and hauling to +the north if the soundings are less than seven fathoms, until the +strait is opened bearing South-East by South, when you may haul +in for Luxmoore Head, and anchor at will.</p> +<blockquote>(*Footnote. Point Brace of Captain +Bremer.)</blockquote> +<p>The narrowest part of the strait is where the low, sandy +extremity, Point Brace, bears South 40 degrees East; the channel +then is from seventeen to eighteen fathoms deep, and shoals +suddenly on its south, but gradually on its north side: it is +about a mile and a half wide.</p> +<p>APSLEY STRAIT is forty miles long, and from one to three +broad; the widest part being at the north end: the southern end, +for five or six miles from the outlet, is very rocky; the south +entrance is in latitude 11 degrees 45 minutes; the flood sets to +the southward, and the ebb, from Van Diemen's Gulf out of +Clarence Strait, runs through the strait to the north, which must +cause many shoals off the south entrance; the depth is generally +from ten to thirteen fathoms, but is very irregular towards the +south end; at low water many parts are dry, which leave the +channels very intricate. We passed over it at high water without +knowing our danger, for the stream of the tide carried us through +the deepest part of the channel.</p> +<p>BATHURST ISLAND is from thirty to thirty-three miles in +extent, having a circumference of a hundred and twenty miles. +GORDON BAY, on its western side, affords a good shelter in the +easterly monsoon; it is ten miles wide, and six deep, and +terminated by PORT HURD, the entrance to which is fronted by a +bar, having twelve or fourteen feet on it at low water. Near the +south-western head of the bay two projecting cliffy points (Twin +Cliffs) terminate a sandy bay, from which wood and, probably, +water may be obtained. PORT HURD, at the bottom of Gordon Bay, in +latitude 11 degrees 39 minutes 30 seconds, is a mere salt-water +inlet, running up in a South-East direction for eight miles; it +then separates into two creeks that wind under each side of a +wooded hill; the entrance is three-quarters of a mile wide, and +formed by two low points. At the back of the port are some wooded +hills; one of them, Mount Hurd, kept in the opening between the +two points of entrance, is the mark for the deepest part of the +bar. When within the entrance the port opens, and forms a basin +two miles and a quarter broad, after which it narrows and runs up +at from half to a quarter of a mile wide, with a channel four and +five fathoms deep.</p> +<p>The country here is thickly wooded, but very low, excepting a +few ranges of hills that may rise to the height of two hundred +feet. The south side of Bathurst Island has no sinuosities.</p> +<p>Near CAPE FOURCROY the coast is formed by sandhills: but, for +the next fifteen miles, it is low and backed by wooded hills.</p> +<hr align="center" width="20%"> +<h4>APPENDIX A. SECTION 4.</h4> +<p align="center">OF THE NATURE OF THE WINDS AND THE DESCRIPTION +OF THE COAST BETWEEN CLARENCE STRAIT AND THE NORTH-WEST CAPE.</p> +<p>NORTH-WEST COAST.</p> +<p>The nature of the winds upon the North-west Coast, that is, +between Cape Van Diemen and the North-west Cape, differs very +materially from the regularity of the monsoons in the sea that +divides it from Timor and the islands to the northward; excepting +in the narrower part between Cape Londonderry and the Sahul Bank, +where, from the contracted nature of the sea, more regular winds +may be expected. The easterly monsoon commences about the +beginning of April, and in the months of May and June blows with +great strength, and will be found more regular close to the +projecting parts of the coast, but they then rather assume the +character of a sea-breeze, for the nights are generally calm.</p> +<p>After the month of June the winds to the westward of Cape +Londonderry are very irregular, and generally blow from the +southward or south-west; they are however more constant to the +westward of Buccaneer's Archipelago, where the seabreezes blow +principally from the North-West along the land. At intervals, +during the east monsoon, the wind blows strong from South-East, +but only for a short time, perhaps only for a few hours. Ships +may creep along the Coast of New Holland to the eastward during +the easterly monsoon, when they could not make any progress in +the mid sea, without being much delayed by calms. Towards the +North-west Cape, neither the monsoon nor the South East trade are +much experienced, the wind being generally from the South-West or +North-West.</p> +<p>During the strength of the westerly monsoon, that is, in the +months of December and January, the wind is regular between +West-North-West and West-South-West, and, in the neighbourhood of +the North-west Cape, sometimes blows hard; but even in these +tropical regions, when the weather is very bad, the change is +predicted by the barometer, which otherwise is scarcely +affected.</p> +<p>In February, near the coast of New Holland, the monsoon is +less constant, and the wind often blows off the land, so that a +ship could make her westing, when, if more to the northward, it +would be impossible for her to gain any ground. At the latter end +of February the westerly winds die away, and are succeeded by +light, baffling, easterly winds, with damp, unwholesome weather, +and attended occasionally by heavy squalls of wind and rain.</p> +<p>If a ship is detained late in the easterly monsoon, and wishes +to get to the westward, she will find the wind more regular and +strong from the eastward in the neighbourhood of Timor, where the +easterly monsoon lasts until the first or second week in +November: in the months of September and October, to the +southward of the parallel of 12 degrees, the winds are almost +constant from South-West. The currents are stronger according to +the regularity and strength of the wind, and generally set at the +rate of one or one knot and a half. The tides in this part of the +coast are noticed in the description of the places where they +were observed. High water at full and change takes place at: The +anchorage off Vansittart Bay at 9 hours 15 minutes.</p> +<p>In Montagu Sound at 12 hours 00 minutes.</p> +<p>In Careening Bay at 12 hours 00 minutes.</p> +<p>In Prince Regent's River at 12 hours 20 minutes.</p> +<p>The rise of the tide, to the westward of Cape Van Diemen, and +particularly to the westward of Cape Bougainville, appeared +gradually to increase: the greatest that we experienced was in +the vicinity of Buccaneer's Archipelago; and at the anchorage in +Camden Bay the tide rose thirty-seven feet; occasioned probably +by the intersected nature of the coast.</p> +<p>The variation in this interval is almost too trifling to be +noticed for the purposes of common navigation. Between Capes +Londonderry and Van Diemen it varies between 1/4 and 1 degree +East. Between the former and Careening Bay it was between 1 and 1 +1/2 degrees East; at Careening Bay the mean of the observations +gave 3/4 of a degree West; but to the westward of that, as far as +Cape Villaret, the results of the observations varied between 1 +degree East and 1 degree West. Near the North-west Cape, and to +the eastward of it as far as Depuch Island, it is about two +degrees Westerly.</p> +<p>On the south-side of Clarence Strait the land is low, like the +coast to the eastward. PATERSON BAY appeared to be the mouth of a +river, but it was not examined. The opening to the eastward of +the projecting point that forms the eastern side of Paterson Bay, +seemed to be a good port; and to have an inlet at its bottom +trending to the South-East.</p> +<p>CAPE GROSE, in latitude 12 degrees 32 minutes 40 seconds, and +longitude 131 degrees 26 minutes, is the western head of Paterson +Bay: it is fronted by reefs that extend for a considerable +distance into the sea; their extremity is nearly nine miles north +from the cape.</p> +<p>Hence the coast extends low and sandy to POINT BLAZE, to the +northward of which there is a bay: to the south the shore is +wooded, and trends for eighteen miles to the north entrance of +Anson Bay, which is formed by PERON ISLANDS; these are low and +sandy; at the extremity of the northern island, there is a sandy +peak in latitude 13 degrees 6 minutes 30 seconds, and longitude +131 degrees 1 minute 20 seconds: the south end is overrun with +mangroves, and it appeared very doubtful whether a channel +existed between it and the smaller island, which is entirely +surrounded by mangroves. This entrance to the bay is very +intricate, and useless, since that to the south of the islands is +so much better. Anson's Bay affords good anchorage, and probably +has a small rivulet at the bottom.</p> +<p>CAPE FORD, in latitude 13 degrees 24 minutes 35 seconds, +longitude 130 degrees 52 minutes 20 seconds, has a reef +projecting for three miles from it: hence the coast trends round +to the southward for thirty miles to a bay, which also has a +small opening at the bottom; five miles inland there is a range +of hills, on which two, of flat-topped summits, are conspicuous; +and, at a distance, assume the appearance of islands. They are +the Barthelemy Hills.</p> +<p>A few miles to the westward is PORT KEATS. TREE POINT, in +latitude 13 degrees 59 minutes 20 seconds, longitude 130 degrees +34 minutes, the eastern head of the port, is surrounded by a +reef, which extends from it for more than three miles. The west +side has also a reef, but of much more considerable size, +stretching to the northward of Cape Hay for fifteen miles; near +its extremity there is a patch of dry rocks, occupying an extent +of two miles. The channel within the heads is from two to four +miles wide, and has anchorage in it between six and seven +fathoms, mud. The port gradually contracts as it approaches the +narrow mouth of the inlet to a mile and a half; it then trends to +the south for six miles, where it is divided into two arms, that +run up for six or seven miles more to the foot of a range of +wooded hills, one of which is MOUNT GOODWIN. The western side of +the inlet is occupied by a bank of clay, that dries at low water. +At about three miles within the narrow entrance on the western +side, there is an inlet, and above this the anchorage is good, +the bottom being of clay, in which is mixed a small ironstone +pebble: between the inlet and the narrows, the bottom is deep and +rocky.</p> +<p>Between Cape Hay, in latitude 14 degrees 1 minute 30 seconds, +and longitude 130 degrees 27 minutes 30 seconds, and POINT +PEARCE, in latitude 14 degrees 28 minutes 30 seconds, longitude +130 degrees 17 minutes 15 seconds, the coast is still low, and +was only seen at a distance. Off the latter point there is a reef +which does not extend to a greater distance than a mile and a +half.</p> +<p>To the south of Point Pearce there is a very extensive +opening, which bad weather and other circumstances did not allow +of being examined. It is nearly thirty miles wide, and the depth +across between eight fathoms and twenty. The south shore is lined +by a considerable reef extending for seven miles from the beach. +The land was very indistinctly seen at the back, but, in one +part, there was a space of more than eighteen miles, in which +nothing was visible. The strength of the tide, the bottom being +sandy instead of mud, as in other parts of the neighbourhood, and +the rocky overfalls on either side of the entrance bespeak this +opening to be of considerable size and importance.</p> +<p>The shore to CAPE DOMETT was very indistinctly seen. It +occupies an extent of forty-five miles, and is fronted by +extensive reefs, which project for twenty-three miles; the north +extremity of the shoal water is twenty-six miles, nearly due west +from Cape Pearce. It terminates with a narrow point, and then +trends in to the South-West towards the coast.</p> +<p>The Medusa Bank fronts the entrance of Cambridge Gulf; it +projects from the coast, near Cape Domett, to the North-West for +seventeen miles, and terminates with a narrow spit, thirteen +miles north from Lacrosse Island, in latitude 14 degrees 30 1/2 +minutes. Both these banks are of sand, and their edges are very +steep to. They are covered with large quantities of mollusca, +which are also abundant in the sea in their vicinity.</p> +<p>CAMBRIDGE GULF extends from Lacrosse Island in a +South-South-Westerly direction for sixty-four miles. The +entrance, between Cape Domett and Cape Dussejour, is twelve miles +wide; but Lacrosse Island, under which there is good anchorage +for vessels going in or out of the gulf, divides the entrance +into two channels. The western entrance is about two miles and a +half wide, and is deepest near the island: but, at a mile from +the shore, we had no bottom with fourteen and seventeen fathoms. +The reefs project from Cape Dussejour for nearly three miles. On +the eastern side of Lacrosse Island, within half a mile of the +point, we had seven fathoms, and there was every appearance of +the channel being deep in the neighbourhood of Cape Domett. +Shakspeare Hill, the situation of which is in latitude 14 degrees +47 minutes 55 seconds, and longitude 128 degrees 24 minutes, is a +conspicuous object on this promontory: it is high and rocky, and, +at a distance, has the appearance of being insulated, like +Lacrosse Island.</p> +<p>Having entered the gulf, it trends to the South-South-West for +twenty-three miles to Adolphus Island, where it is divided into +two arms, of which the westernmost is the principal. At ten miles +from Lacrosse Island, the channel is narrowed by shoals to a +width of five miles, the shores being twelve miles apart. The +land on the western side of the gulf is high and rocky; but the +opposite shore is very low, and apparently marshy. The bottom is +of sand, as are the banks on either side, and affords good +anchorage: the tide stream runs with great strength in +mid-channel, but is easily avoided by anchoring upon the weather +shore near the edge of the bank.</p> +<p>The channels on either side of Adolphus Island are called the +East and West Arms. The East Arm is from one to two miles and a +half wide, and four or five fathoms deep. At ten miles it is +joined by an arm that washes the south side of Adolphus Island, +and the united streams trend together in a South-East direction, +under the foot of Mount Connexion, for a considerable distance. +This inlet was not examined. The West Arm extends down the west +side of Adolphus Island for seven miles; it is then divided by a +projecting point under View Hill; and, whilst one runs to the +eastward and unites with the East Arm, the other continues to +trend to the southward, and then opens out to an extensive basin +eleven miles in length, and from four to six in breadth; and, at +seven miles, gradually contracts as it winds under the base of +the Bastion Hills: before, however, you arrive at the basin, the +stream is divided by several islands and rocky islets, that +narrow the channel in some parts to the width of half a mile, in +which the depth is very great, and the tide runs with great +strength.</p> +<p>At the entrance of the basin the high rocky character of the +west shore is superseded by low mangrove banks, with here and +there a detached hill rising from a plain of low marshy land, +that, at the time of our visit, was covered with a salt +incrustation, occasioned by the evaporation of the sea, which, +apparently, had lately flooded the low lands to a great extent: +some of these plains are seven and eight miles in diameter. The +hills rise abruptly; those we examined are of sandstone +formation. The basin is very shoal, but there is a narrow channel +in the centre, with from five to nine fathoms water. The shore, +opposite the Bastion Hills, is low, and the gulf trends gradually +round to the South-West for five miles, when it is contracted +into a narrow communication, called The Gut, leading to an +interior shoal basin, strewed with low marshy islands, which the +tide covers. This basin terminates to the southward in a narrow +stream, winding under the base of Mount Cockburn; and there also +appeared to be several others falling into the basin more to the +westward. The water was salt at the extremity of our exploration. +The Gut leading to it is two miles long, and not so much as a +quarter of a mile wide: in some parts we had nineteen fathoms, +but in others it was deeper; it runs through a chasm in the +hills, which rise abruptly, and occasionally recede and form +bights, in which, in the wet season, the rains form some very +considerable mountain torrents. No fresh water was seen in any +part of the gulf; but as it was near the end of the dry season +when we were there, it might probably be found in a more advanced +season in every part of the western side, where the land is high +and the gullies numerous: there is, however, no durable +freshwater stream without the Gut. An alligator was observed +swimming about, but very few fish were noticed.</p> +<p>The coast extends from Cape Dussejour to Cape Londonderry, a +distance of ninety-five miles, without an opening, and with but +few sinuosities of any consequence. The coast is chiefly rocky, +with here and there a few sandy beaches: but the shore generally +is open and exposed: there are many parts, however, where a boat +might land; particularly behind BUCKLE HEAD, and a little farther +on at REVELEY ISLAND: at the latter place there is a gully in the +hills, at the back of the bay, which may probably produce fresh +water: this bay is near Captain Baudin's MOUNT CASUARINA, a +flat-topped hill, that is conspicuous from the sea. The mount is +only visible between the bearings of South and West-South-West, +and may be seen at the distance of seven or eight leagues. It is +situated at six miles from the shore, in latitude 14 degrees 23 +minutes 15 seconds, and longitude 127 degrees 36 minutes 50 +seconds.</p> +<p>The coast is here but slightly wooded, and sufficiently +elevated to conceal the interior; no part of which, excepting +Mount Casuarina, could be seen. It is fronted by rocks, but they +do not appear to extend more than two miles from the shore. At +CAPE RULHIERES, the coast trends more westerly. To the westward +of this cape are two sandy bays, in which boats might effect a +landing; but they are open and exposed to the northward. To the +eastward of it there are some reefs which project for more than +two miles from the shore; and, at the west head of the +westernmost of the bays, is an island with a reef extending for +nearly three miles from it: behind the island is another bay, +that appeared to be fronted by the above reef. In the offing, and +at the distance of six miles from the shore, is LESUEUR ISLAND; +it is about two miles in circumference, and surrounded by a coral +reef, that extends for one mile and a half from its north-east +end. At this part the coast is more verdant in appearance than to +the eastward of Cape Rulhieres, particularly for ten miles to the +South-East of Cape Londonderry; in which space there are several +sandy bays, with the shores wooded to the brink of the beach: at +about five miles from the cape is a small boat harbour, at the +back of which a gully in the hills appeared promising for the +search for fresh water, more particularly on account of the +verdant appearance of the trees near it.</p> +<p>CAPE LONDONDERRY is a low rocky point; it is easily recognised +by the reef that extends from it, and the trend of the land, +which takes from it a westerly direction; there are also two +small sandy islets, Stewart's Islets, at a little more than two +miles from it, encompassed by the reef. The cape is in 13 degrees +44 minutes South, and 126 degrees 53 minutes 50 seconds East.</p> +<p>The land then extends to the westward for nearly eleven miles, +to CAPE TALBOT; it is fronted by the reef that commences at Cape +Londonderry, and projects from the shore for nearly five miles, +but to the eastward of the cape a ship may approach it within two +miles.</p> +<p>To the south of Cape Talbot the land trends in and forms a bay +twelve miles deep, and wide, that was not examined. It is fronted +by SIR GRAHAM MOORE'S ISLANDS, one of which is eight miles long, +and low, excepting at the east end, where there is a flat-topped +hill; there is also another remarkable summit on a smaller +island, to the north of the principal island.</p> +<p>At twenty miles West-South-West from Cape Talbot is the east +entrance of VANSITTART BAY; it is formed between MARY ISLAND and +the easternmost of the ECLIPSE ISLES (Long Island) but this +space, which is nearly three miles wide, is much occupied by +rocks, so that it is contracted to the width of little more than +half a mile.</p> +<p>The channel to this is between two extensive reefs, the +innermost of which commences at eight miles to the westward of +Cape Talbot, and extends along Sir Graham Moore's Islands to Mary +Island.</p> +<p>The outer reef commences at about twelve miles from the cape, +and extends to the westward, embracing JONES' ISLAND (in latitude +13 degrees 44 minutes, and longitude 126 degrees 23 minutes) and +the Eclipse Isles. The passage is from three and a half to five +miles wide, and is deep and free from danger. The bottom is rocky +until within five miles of the Eclipse Islands, when good +anchorage may be obtained in five and six fathoms, upon a muddy +bottom.</p> +<p>The entrance is between Middle Rock, and a patch of dry rocks +to the eastward of Long Rocks, the distance across being about +half a mile. In entering the bay by this channel, steer so as to +pass round Middle Rock, and upon bringing the peaked summit of +Jar Island, at the bottom of the port, between it and Long Rocks, +bearing South 29 1/2 degrees West, steer directly for Jar Island, +until you are abreast of Middle Rock, when you may haul close +round it, with fourteen and sixteen fathoms: when you have passed +the Long Rocks, a course may be directed at pleasure into the +bay. There is also a deep passage to the westward of Middle Rock; +but it is too narrow to be safe. The tide sets through the +channels with great strength; with the flood-tide there is no +danger, as the stream will carry a vessel through the deepest +part; with the ebb-tide, however, it should not be attempted.</p> +<p>The western entrance to Vansittart Bay is between the land of +CAPE BOUGAINVILLE and the Eclipse Islands: it is three miles and +a half wide, and quite free from danger. The approach to it, +between TROUGHTON ISLAND (latitude 13 degrees 44 minutes 10 +seconds, longitude 126 degrees 11 minutes) and the reefs in the +offing, is six miles wide, and probably quite safe. We did not +ascertain the existence of a channel on the east side of the +island, but it appeared to be free from danger, and, if so, would +be the best approach. ECLIPSE HILL, being higher than the land +near it, and conspicuous from its flat tabular shape, is a good +mark for the port; it is in latitude 13 degrees 54 minutes 20 +seconds and longitude 126 degrees 18 minutes 40 seconds.</p> +<p>Vansittart Bay is eighteen miles deep, and from five to ten +broad; it offers excellent anchorage. The eastern shore is rocky, +and should not be approached nearer than a mile; but the western +shore is steep to, and may be passed very close: on this side the +port there are many coves and bays fit for any purposes. The most +secure anchorage is in the centre of the bay, where there is from +seven to nine fathoms, mud, and the sea-breeze has free access: +but, if a more sheltered place is required, such may be found at +the south-east corner of the bottom of the bay in six and seven +fathoms, mud. High water at full and change takes place in the +eastern entrance, at a quarter past nine o'clock; the tide rises +about six feet.</p> +<p>JAR ISLAND is surrounded by rocks, but to the eastward of it +the channel is twelve fathoms deep. Its summit is in latitude 14 +degrees 7 minutes 10 seconds, longitude 126 degrees 15 minutes 40 +seconds.</p> +<p>The western side of Vansittart Bay is formed by a peninsula, +the extremity of which is Cape Bougainville; the northern part of +this land is fronted by a reef, that extends round it for three +miles from the shore, but the western side appeared to be of bold +approach. The reef commences at Cape Bougainville, and trends +round to Point Gibson, where it terminates. This part of the +coast is fronted by extensive reefs, which render the approach to +it very dangerous: at sixteen miles to the northward of the cape +there is a range, the HOLOTHURIA BANKS, that extend in an east +and west direction for twenty-three miles; their north-east +extent was not ascertained, but the western end, in latitude 13 +degrees 32 minutes, and longitude 125 degrees 46 minutes 45 +seconds, is narrow, and not more than five or six miles +broad.</p> +<p>There is another range of reefs to the westward of the cape, +that extends in a north and south direction for upwards of twenty +miles; and about from three to five miles broad. The water breaks +on many parts of it. Its north extremity, in latitude 13 degrees +41 1/2 minutes, is sixteen miles West 3/4 North from Troughton +Island: in this space the sea is quite clear, and from sixteen to +twenty fathoms deep. The narrowest part of the channel, between +the reef and the peninsula, is at Point Gibson, where it is more +than eight miles wide, and in mid-channel about twenty-three +fathoms deep.</p> +<p>Between Cape Bougainville and Cape Voltaire is the ADMIRALTY +GULF. It is twenty-nine miles wide and twenty-two deep, +independent of Port Warrender. This gulf is thickly strewed with +islands and reefs: a group off Cape Voltaire was seen by the +French and named by them the INSTITUTE ISLANDS, the three +principal of which, of flat-topped shape, are called Descartes, +Fenelon, and Corneille; besides these the Montesquieu Group, and +Pascal and Condillac Islands, were distinguished. On the eastern +side of the gulf, near the shore, are OSBORN'S ISLANDS, which are +high and rocky: the southernmost is remarkable for its steep, +precipitous form, and for its resemblance to Mount Cockburn in +Cambridge Gulf. There is also a conspicuous high bluff on the +principal island, which appears to have been seen by the +French.</p> +<p>In the offing is CASSINI ISLAND; it is rather low and level, +and surrounded by cliffs and rocky shores: on the eastern side +are four sandy beaches, which are very much frequented by turtle: +a reef projects off its north end for a mile and a half. The +anchorage is good near the island, but the water is very deep. +The situation of its centre is in latitude 13 degrees 55 minutes +5 seconds, and longitude 125 degrees 42 minutes.</p> +<p>PORT WARRENDER is an excellent port, and affords good +anchorage in the bay round Crystal Head, in which a vessel is +quite land-locked; but equally secure anchorage may be had for +five miles higher up the port, in from four to seven fathoms, +mud. It extends for six miles farther, but the depth in some +parts is not more than two fathoms.</p> +<p>At eleven miles from the entrance, the port is separated into +two inlets, which wind under the base of a dividing range of +high, steep, and wooded hills; these run up for five miles +higher, when they become mere mangrove creeks. There is probably +another inlet on the east side of Port Warrender which we did not +examine, since it appeared to be less considerable in size, and +important in appearance, than the arm which we had examined. +CRYSTAL HEAD is in latitude 14 degrees 28 minutes, and longitude +125 degrees 55 minutes 30 seconds.</p> +<p>WALMESLY BAY appeared to be a good port also, but it is open +to the eastward. We did not enter it.</p> +<p>CAPE VOLTAIRE is the extremity of a promontory, extending for +more than twenty miles into the sea, and separating the Admiralty +Gulf from Montagu Sound. There is a flat-topped hill near its +extremity, in latitude 14 degrees 14 minutes 30 seconds, and +longitude 125 degrees 40 minutes 12 seconds; and, at three miles +more to the southward, a peaked hill; its shores on either side +are rocky, and indented by bays. At one part the width across to +Walmesly Bay cannot be more than a mile and a half.</p> +<p>The MONTALIVET ISLES, about six leagues from the main, consist +of three rocky islands; they are visible for six or seven leagues +from the deck: the north-easternmost is in latitude 14 degrees 13 +minutes 40 seconds, longitude 125 degrees 19 minutes 30 +seconds.</p> +<p>MONTAGU SOUND extends from Cape Voltaire to the north end of +Bigge's Island, a distance of thirty-one miles, and is from +eleven to twenty miles deep. It is fronted by a range of islands; +the outer range, which is eight miles within the Montalivet +Isles, was called PRUDHOE ISLANDS; besides which there were +several scattered about the sound, and some of larger size near +the main: of the latter are KATER'S and WOLLASTON'S. They are of +a very rocky character, and furnished with but a poor and shallow +soil, although the surface is thickly covered with small trees, +growing most luxuriantly. WATER ISLAND, to the north-east, in +latitude 14 degrees 21 minutes, and longitude 125 degrees 32 +minutes 25 seconds, was visited by us, as was also CAPSTAN +ISLAND, in the south-west corner of the sound. The latter island +is in latitude 14 degrees 35 minutes 20 seconds, and longitude +125 degrees 16 minutes 20 seconds. They are both rocky, and +destitute of any soil but what is formed by the decomposition of +the vegetables that grow upon the island. The channels between +them appeared to be clear and free from hidden danger. The depth +among the islands is from ten to fifteen fathoms on a muddy +bottom; but the anchorage is better between Kater Island and the +promontory that separates it from Walmesly Bay, than any other +part. It is a very fine port, particularly near the bottom, in +SWIFT'S BAY, where the depth is from four to five fathoms at low +water, It is high water at full and change in Swift's Bay at +twelve o'clock, which is two hours and a quarter later than in +Vansittart Bay: the tide rose eighteen feet, whereas in Port +Warrender its rise was only six. The islands off the north-east +end of Bigge's Island are more numerous than in other parts of +the sound: they were only seen at a distance, and too numerous to +give correct positions to. BIGGE'S ISLAND is fourteen miles long, +and from six to seven broad; it is of moderate height, and rocky +character: its south end appeared to be thickly wooded. A +flat-topped hill near the shore of Scott's Strait is a remarkable +object, and may be seen six or seven leagues off. It is in +latitude 14 degrees 39 minutes 20 seconds, and longitude 125 +degrees 10 minutes 20 seconds.</p> +<p>SCOTT'S STRAIT is a channel separating Bigge's Island from the +main: it is thirteen miles long, and from three to one and a +quarter broad. It is of irregular depth, and has some rocks in +mid-channel, which are dry: the deepest channel is near the +eastern shore, the depth being from ten to fourteen fathoms. The +strait does not terminate until you are to the westward of Cape +Pond, for there are several islets off the south end of Bigge's +Island, and a considerable reef, through which, although there +may be deep channels, yet they must be narrow. Off the north-west +end of Bigge's Island are several rocky islets; the outer ones +were seen by me in the Bathurst (see above): they are the MARET +ISLES of Commodore Baudin; they consist of four or five principal +islands, of about two miles in length, besides as many more of +very small size off the south extremity of the group. The +northern point of the northernmost island is in latitude 15 +degrees 7 minutes 15 seconds, and longitude 124 degrees 56 +minutes 40 seconds. The group is fronted on the north-west side +by a considerable reef, extending North by East 1/2 East for +seven miles; the outer edge being three miles and a half to the +westward of the group.</p> +<p>YORK SOUND is fourteen miles wide and ten deep: it is +contained between Cape Pond and the northern extreme of the +Coronation Islands. It is spacious, but the bottom, in the +middle, is rocky: there is, however, very good anchorage near the +Coronation Islands; and there is also, possibly, as good on the +eastern shore to the south of CAPE POND, which has a rocky island +immediately off it, the situation of which is in latitude 14 +degrees 43 minutes 20 seconds, and longitude 125 degrees 9 +minutes 25 seconds.</p> +<p>At the bottom of York Sound is PRINCE FREDERIC'S HARBOUR, a +fine spacious port, fourteen miles long, and from five to seven +broad: it is terminated by two rivers, namely Hunter's and Roe's. +It has several rocky islands on either shore; and, at the bottom, +they are numerous. The tide here rises at the springs twenty-nine +feet. The anchorage is not so good in the entrance of the port, +but a good bottom may be found as soon as Hunter's River begins +to open, and bears East 1/2 North, and when you are within a +small island that is in the centre of the port; but an anchorage +may very probably be obtained on the northern shore, or, indeed, +any where out of the strength of the tides.</p> +<p>HUNTER'S RIVER runs up for about fourteen miles. It is about +one mile and a half wide at the entrance, and preserves that +width for more than four miles, when it suddenly contracts and +becomes shoal, and very tortuous in its course, and winds through +a narrow chasm in the rocks, which rise precipitously in some +parts for at least two or three hundred feet. A vessel may anchor +in seven fathoms near the end of the first reach; its course is +to the East-North-East. There is a remarkable rock at the +entrance, in latitude 15 degrees 1 minute 30 seconds, and +longitude 125 degrees 24 minutes. ROE'S RIVER first trends for +seventeen miles to the East by South, and then, taking a sudden +turn to the south, runs up for thirteen miles more; after which +it trends to the South-East, and was supposed to run up for at +least ten miles farther. Its entrance for seven miles forms a +very good harbour, being from two to six fathoms deep; but, in +anchoring here, it must be recollected that the tide falls +twenty-nine feet. This river, like Hunter's River, is bounded on +either bank by precipitous hills, which, in many parts, are +inaccessible.</p> +<p>Five miles to the westward of Cape Torrens is Point Hardy: off +the latter is an islet; and three miles, North by East 1/2 East +from it, is a reef, on which the sea breaks. This point is the +east head of PORT NELSON, which extends to the southward from it +for eight miles: its western side is formed by the Coronation +Islands: its width is three miles, with good anchorage all over +it. At the bottom is CAREENING BAY, where the Mermaid was +repaired. The latitude of the beach in 15 degrees 6 minutes 18 +seconds, and longitude 125 degrees 0 minutes 46 seconds.* Port +Nelson communicates with the sea to the westward of the +Coronation Islands, which may be considered a strait. At the +south-west end of the southernmost island, where the strait is +narrowest, and not more than one mile and a quarter wide, there +is a patch of rocks in the centre, which always shows: the +channel on the north side of these rocks is the best: the water +is very deep, and the tide sets right through.</p> +<blockquote>(*Footnote. The latitude of the observatory was taken +every day during our stay, using the sea-horizon, but the effect +of refraction was so great that the daily observations varied as +much as 3 minutes 43 seconds. +<p>The mean of 15 meridional altitudes with the sextant made the +latitude 15 degrees 6 minutes 22.5 seconds, and of fourteen +observations with the circle 15 degrees 6 minutes 13.8 seconds. +Mean for the latitude of the observatory 15 degrees 6 minutes 18 +seconds South.</p> +<p>The longitude was deduced by the mean of the observations of +our two visits; namely, in October, 1820, and August, 1821: the +latter were taken at Sight Point, in Prince Regent's River, the +difference of the meridians of the two places, by chronometers +and survey, being 8 minutes 52.8 seconds.</p> +<p>1820. September 28 and 29. By twenty sets of lunar distances +with the sun, containing one hundred sights with the sextant, the +sun being to the east of the moon, the longitude is 125 degrees +11 minutes 24.3 seconds.</p> +<p>1821. August 2nd and 3rd. By seventeen sets of lunar distances +with the sun, containing eighty-five sights with the sextant, the +sun being to the west of the moon, the longitude of Sight Point, +in Prince Regent's River, was found to be 124 degrees 41 minutes +15.3 seconds, or of Careening Bay 124 degrees 50 minutes 8.1 +seconds.</p> +<p>The mean is the longitude of the observatory 125 degrees 0 +minutes 46 seconds East.)</p> +</blockquote> +<p>The CORONATION ISLANDS separate York Sound from Brunswick Bay, +and are situated in front of Port Nelson. The group consists of +seventeen or eighteen islands, besides numerous rocky islets. On +the largest island are two remarkable peaks; the easternmost is +in 14 degrees 59 minutes, and longitude 124 degrees 56 minutes 5 +seconds. The island is eight miles long, and from four to two +wide; the others are from three to one mile in length; they are +covered with vegetation, and the larger islands are well clothed +with trees. The great rise of the tide would render this part of +the coast of importance, was it not for the wretched state of the +country, and the unproductiveness of its soil, which are great +drawbacks upon the advantage of the tide's unusual rise. It is +high water at full and change in Port Nelson at twelve o'clock, +as it is also in Montagu Sound.</p> +<p>Beyond the Coronation Islands there is a string of small, +rocky islands extending for sixteen miles: the westernmost is +Freycinet's Group; the principal island of which Captain De +Freycinet has described as resembling an inverted bowl; and, from +this description, we had no difficulty in finding it out; it is +in latitude 15 degrees 0 minutes 30 seconds, and longitude 124 +degrees 32 minutes 40 seconds. Among the other islands we +distinguished the islets Colbert, Keraudren, and Buffon. On the +last there is a small, grassy, peaked hillock, in latitude 14 +degrees 55 minutes 25 seconds, and longitude 124 degrees 43 +minutes 20 seconds.</p> +<p>We passed out to sea between Freycinet's Group and Keraudren; +and within one mile and a half of the latter had eighteen +fathoms: it appeared, from the colour of the water, to have a +reef projecting to the westward.</p> +<p>BRUNSWICK BAY is at the back of these islands, and extends +from CAPE BREWSTER, in latitude 15 degrees 6 minutes 10 seconds, +and longitude 124 degrees 55 minutes 5 seconds, which terminates +Port Nelson, to Point Adieu. It is an extensive bay or sound, and +is about twenty miles in extent, with good anchorage all over it. +The coast is here very much indented by rivers and bays; among +which may be particularized Prince Regent's River, Hanover Bay, +and Port George the Fourth.</p> +<p>PRINCE REGENT'S RIVER is, without exception, the most +remarkable feature of the North-West Coast. In general the inlets +of this coast form extensive ports at their entrance; and, when +they begin to assume the character of a river, their course +becomes tortuous, and very irregular; of which there cannot be a +better instance than the neighbouring river, Roe's River. Prince +Regent's River trends into the interior in a South-East by East +direction for fifty-four miles. With scarcely a point to +intercept the view, after being thirteen miles within it. The +entrance is formed by Cape Wellington on the east, and High Bluff +on the west, a width of eight miles, but is so much contracted by +islands, that, in hauling round Cape Wellington, the width is +suddenly reduced to little more than a mile: at the branching off +of Rothsay Water, it is little more than half a mile, and also +the same width at the entrance of St. George's Basin. In this +space, however, it is in some parts a little wider, but in no +part between projecting points is it more than one mile and a +quarter. For the first nine miles the stream is narrowed by +islands; beyond this, its boundaries are formed by the natural +banks of the river. On the eastern side, within Cape Wellington, +is a deep bay, but of shoal and rocky appearance. At six miles +farther on are two inlets, ROTHSAY and MUNSTER WATERS, near which +the tide forms rapid eddies and whirlpools, that render its +approach dangerous. In mid-channel is a group of isles; and, off +the easternmost, a reef projects to the eastward for more than +half a mile, round which a vessel must pass; here the channel is +not more than half a mile wide. Munster Water, on the western +side, communicates with Hanover Bay by a narrow strait, with very +good anchorage in it in four and five fathoms mud; it is, +however, an inconvenient place to go to, if a vessel is bound any +farther up the river. Rothsay Water is a very considerable arm; +and was conjectured to communicate with Prince Frederic's +Harbour, and, if so, would insulate the land between Capes +Torrens and Wellington. We did not enter Rothsay Water; and the +tides and whirlpools were too rapid and dangerous to trust our +small boats without running a very great risk. At the entrance of +this arm, on the south shore, there appeared to be a shoal-bank. +Halfway Bay offers very good anchorage out of the strength of the +tides, with abundance of room to get underweigh from. The +northernmost point of the bay, SIGHT POINT, has a small islet off +it (LAMMAS ISLET) where the observations were taken to fix the +longitude of Careening Bay. (See above.) The two bays on the +opposite, or north-east shore, are shoal, and not fit for any +vessel drawing more than six or seven feet; and the shores are so +lined with mangroves, as in most parts to defy all attempts at +landing. After passing them, the shores approach each other +within three-quarters of a mile, but the south-west shore is +fronted by a rocky shoal, which narrows it to less than half a +mile; here the tide runs very strong, and forms whirlpools. On +passing the point, the river opens into a large, spacious reach, +which was called ST. GEORGE'S BASIN; and two conspicuous islands +in it were called ST. ANDREW and ST. PATRICK'S ISLANDS. At the +north-east corner are two remarkable hills, MOUNTS TRAFALGAR and +WATERLOO: the situation of the summit of the former is in +latitude 15 degrees 16 minutes 35 seconds, and longitude 125 +degrees 4 minutes. The basin is from eight to nine miles in +diameter, but affords no safe anchorage until a vessel is above +St. Patrick's Island. The northern side of the basin is shoaler, +and has two small inlets, which trend in on either side of the +mounts, and run in for upwards of five miles, but they are salt. +At the south side of the basin there are two or three inlets of +considerable size, that trend in towards a low country. At ten +miles South-East by East from the narrow entrance to the basin +the river again resumes its narrow channel, and runs up so +perfectly straight for fourteen miles in a South-East by East +course, that the hills, which rise precipitously on either bank, +were lost in distance, and the river assumed the most exact +appearance of being a strait; it was from one to one mile and a +quarter wide, and generally of from four to eight fathoms deep on +a bottom of yellow sand: the river then took a slight bend, and +continued to run up for twelve or thirteen miles further, with a +few slight curves, and gradually to decrease in width until +terminated by a bar of rocks; which, when the tide rose high +enough to fall over, was very dangerous to pass: here a +considerable gully joins the main stream, and, being fresh water, +was supposed to have the same source as Roe's River. The river +trended up for about three or four miles farther, when it is +entirely stopped by a rapid formed of stones, beyond which we did +not persevere in tracing it; the tide did not reach above this, +and the stream was perceived to continue and form a very +beautiful fresh-water river, about two or three hundred yards +wide. As our means did not allow of our persevering any further, +we gave up our examination. At seventeen miles above St. George's +Basin, on the south shore, we found a cascade of fresh water +falling in a considerable quantity from the height of one hundred +and forty feet; and this, in the rainy season, must be a very +large fall, for its breadth is at least fifty yards. At the time +of our visit it was near the end of the dry season: and even then +there was a very considerable quantity falling. Several small +inlets trended in on either side of the river above the basin, +particularly one upon the north side, which, from the height of +the hills under which it trended, would probably produce a +freshwater stream. In 1821 the Bathurst watered from the cascade, +but the fatigue was too great, and the heat too powerful, for the +boats' crew had to pull nearly forty miles every trip. High water +took place in St. George's Basin at twenty minutes after twelve +o'clock: the tide rose twenty-four feet.</p> +<p>HANOVER BAY is a very convenient port, about five miles deep, +but exposed from the North-North-West; the anchorage is, however, +so good, that no danger need be apprehended. At the bottom of the +bay there is a deep chasm in the land, yielding a fresh-water +stream; beyond this the bay terminates in a shoal basin. In the +offing are several rocky islets, particularly one, a high rock, +which is very remarkable. A little to the north-east of the river +is a sandy beach, the situation of which is in latitude 15 +degrees 18 minutes 21 seconds, and longitude 124 degrees 46 +minutes 50 seconds.</p> +<p>HIGH BLUFF, the extremity of the promontory separating Hanover +Bay from Port George the Fourth, speaks for itself. It is in +latitude 15 degrees 14 minutes 40 seconds, and longitude 124 +degrees 41 minutes 35 seconds. Between High Bluff and Point +Adieu, in latitude 15 degrees 14 minutes 10 seconds, and +longitude 124 degrees 34 minutes 45 seconds, is PORT GEORGE THE +FOURTH, having midway in its entrance a high island nearly two +miles long; and to the southward, in the centre of the port, a +high rocky islet, the LUMP, the summit of which is situated in +latitude 15 degrees 18 minutes 30 seconds, and longitude 124 +degrees 37 minutes 50 seconds. The western side of the port is an +extensive island, AUGUSTUS ISLAND, eleven miles long; it is high +and rocky, and has several bays on its eastern side. The port +affords very good anchorage, particularly between Entrance Island +and the Lump, in nine fathoms, mud; but there is also very good +anchorage with the Lump bearing west, in ten fathoms, mud. Port +George the Fourth terminates in a strait, ROGER'S STRAIT, +communicating with Camden Bay. The best entrance to the port is +on the eastern side of Entrance Island; for the opposite, +although practicable and sufficiently deep for the largest ships, +is narrow, and must be buoyed before it can be used.</p> +<p>POINT ADIEU is the last land seen by us in 1820: it is the +north-east end of Augustus Island, and is a rocky, bluff point. +In the offing, at the distance of three miles, there is a +considerable range of reefs, that extend from the peaked island +of Jackson's Isles; and more to the north-west is another group +of rocky islands.</p> +<p>To the westward of Augustus Island is a range of islands +extending for five leagues; on their north side they are fronted +by considerable coral reefs, which at low water are dry; besides +which there are several small islets that contract the channels, +and render the navigation intricate and difficult. Between +Augustus and Byam Martin's Islands there is an open strait, of +one mile and a half wide; but, its communication with the sea to +the north, appears to be little more than half a mile. BYAM +MARTIN'S ISLAND is separated from a range of small islets, +extending North-North-East by a strait; and these last are +divided from the Champagny Isles by another strait, from +twenty-eight to thirty fathoms deep, through which the tide runs +with great force. Off the north end of Byam Martin's Island are +several smaller islets and coral reefs; the latter extend from it +for more than six miles: the north-westernmost of these islets is +the land seen in 1801 by Captain Heywood, and was called by him +Vulcan Point: RED ISLAND, which he also saw, is eight miles to +the westward; it is in latitude 15 degrees 13 minutes 15 seconds, +and longitude 124 degrees 15 minutes 45 seconds: between it and +Champagny Isles the ebbing tide uncovered several extensive +reefs. Ten miles North 26 degrees East from Red Island, and South +71 degrees West from Freycinet's Island, is a dry sandbank +surrounded by a reef.</p> +<p>DEGERANDO ISLAND, so called by the French, is the southernmost +of the CHAMPAGNY ISLES: considerable reefs extend off its south +end, which are dry at low water; its centre is in latitude 15 +degrees 20 minutes 45 seconds, and longitude 124 degrees 13 +minutes 15 seconds.</p> +<p>CAMDEN BAY is formed between Byam Martin's Island and Pratt's +Islands, and extends to the eastward to Roger's Strait; it is +twelve miles deep and eight wide. Here the tide rose and fell +thirty-seven feet and a half, the moon's age being nineteen days. +High water took place thirteen minutes after the moon's +transit.</p> +<p>Between Camden Bay and Point Swan, a distance of ninety miles, +the mainland falls back, and forms a very considerable opening +fronted by a multitude of islands, islets, and reefs, into which, +from our loss of anchors; we were not able to penetrate. From +Camden Bay the islands, for the coast seemed too irregular to be +the mainland, extend in a range in a south direction for more +than fifty-five miles, to where there appeared to be a deep +opening, or strait, from three to five miles wide. An irregular +line of coast then appeared to extend for seven leagues to the +North-West, and afterwards to the westward for five or six +leagues. To the westward of this, the land appeared to be less +continuous, and to be formed by a mass of islands separated by +deep and narrow straits, through some of which the tide was +observed to rush with considerable strength, foaming and curling +in its stream, as if it were rushing through a bed of rocks: this +was particularly observed among the islands to the south of +Macleay's Islands. After extending for thirty miles farther to +the South-West, the land terminates evidently in islands, which +then trend to the South-East; and to the westward they are +separated from Cygnet Bay, and the land to the southward of it by +a strait five or six leagues wide. The narrowest part of this +strait is at Point Cunningham, where it is twelve miles wide; +two-thirds over to the islands are two rocky islets, which bear +due south from Sunday Strait.</p> +<p>MONTGOMERY ISLANDS, a group of seven islets on the eastern +side of this extensive range of islands, which are named +BUCCANEER'S ARCHIPELAGO, are low and of small extent, +particularly the six easternmost, none of which are a mile long: +the westernmost, which has an extensive reef stretching to the +North-West, is more than three miles in diameter, and appears to +be of different formation to the other, being low and flat, +whilst the rest are scarcely better than a heap of stones, +slightly clothed with vegetation. Between the easternmost islet +and the land, there is a strait of a league in width. The tide +prevented our trying its depth: a league and a half to the +north-west, at high-water, we had irregular soundings between ten +and sixteen fathoms, but six fathoms must be deducted from it to +reduce it to the depth at low water.</p> +<p>Three leagues to the north-west of Montgomery's westernmost +island are COCKELL'S ISLES, two in number, low and flat, but of +small size. A reef extends for more than five miles to the +westward, and it was not thought improbable that it might be +connected with the reefs that extend to the westward of +Montgomery Islands. The centre of the largest island is in 15 +degrees 48 minutes South, and 124 degrees 4 minutes East. To the +North-East of Cockell's Islands the flood-tide sets to the south; +but to the westward with great strength to the South-East, and, +at an anchorage ten miles to the eastward of Macleay Isles, the +tide rose and fell thirty-six feet, the moon being twenty-one +days old. Cockell's Islands are twenty miles from the land to the +south; and in this interval, but within four leagues from the +shore, are several small rocky islets, on one of which there is a +remarkable lump; nearer the shore are two islands, which have a +more fertile and verdant appearance than any other part near +them: these form the western extremity of COLLIER'S BAY.</p> +<p>MACLEAY ISLES lie in a North by West direction, and are eight +miles in extent; the principal and highest island is near the +south end of the group; those to the northward are small and +straggling. The centre of the highest is in latitude 15 degrees +57 minutes, and longitude 123 degrees 42 minutes.</p> +<p>CAFFARELLI ISLAND was seen by the French. Its summit is in +latitude 16 degrees 2 minutes 25 seconds, and longitude 123 +degrees 18 minutes 35 seconds. It is the north-westernmost of a +range of islands, extending in the direction of North 60 degrees +West; among which Cleft Island, so named from a remarkable cleft +or chasm near its north end, and DAMPIER'S MONUMENT, are +conspicuous: the latter is a high lump. This range is separated +from one of a similar nature, and extending in a like direction +to the eastward, by a strait from three to four miles wide, and +from fifteen to twenty deep.</p> +<p>Fourteen miles North 68 degrees West from the summit of +Caffarelli Island is BRUE REEF, a circular patch of rocks of +about a mile in diameter; three miles to the north-east of which +we had irregular soundings, between thirty-eight and forty-five +fathoms on a rocky bottom. The reef is in 15 degrees 57 minutes +South, and 123 degrees 4 minutes 45 seconds East.</p> +<p>Six miles south of Caffarelli Island, is a rocky island, +surrounded by a reef; and eight miles farther are several small +rocky islands, forming the north extremity of a range, which, +extending to the South by East for ten miles, form the eastern +side of Sunday Strait, which is the best, and in fact the only +safe communication with the deep opening between Point Cunningham +and the islands to the eastward. Between this strait and Point +Swan, a distance of eleven miles, the space is occupied by a +multitude of islands and islets, separated from each other by +narrow and, probably, by deep channels, through which the tide +rushes with frightful rapidity. Sunday Strait is more than four +miles wide, and appears to be free from danger. The tide sets +through it at the rate of four or five miles an hour, and forms +strong ripplings, which would be, perhaps, dangerous for a boat +to encounter. The vessel was whirled round several times in +passing through it; but a boat, by being able to pull, might in a +great measure avoid passing through them.</p> +<p>CYGNET BAY is formed between the islands and Point Cunningham; +it is fronted by a bank, over which the least water that we found +was two fathoms; within this bank there is good anchorage, and +near the inlets at the bottom of the bay, there is a muddy +bottom, with eight and nine fathoms mud.</p> +<p>POINT CUNNINGHAM projects slightly to the eastward; its +easternmost extremity is in latitude 16 degrees 39 minutes 20 +seconds and longitude 123 degrees 10 minutes; from the northward +it has the appearance of being an island, as the land to the +westward is rather lower: two miles and a half south of it is +Carlisle Head, the north extremity of GOODENOUGH BAY.</p> +<p>The shore thence extends in a South-South-East direction for +seventeen miles, in which space there is a shoal bay, beyond +which we did not penetrate. Off the point is an islet, in +latitude about 16 degrees 58 minutes, and to the south of it the +land was seen trending to the South by East for four or five +miles, when it was lost in distance. From this anchorage no land +was distinctly seen to the eastward; between the bearings of +East-North-East and South-South-East, a slight glimmering of land +was raised above the horizon, by the effect of refraction; but +this, as in a case that occurred before in a neighbouring part +off Point Gantheaume, might be at least fifty miles off.</p> +<p>From all that is at present known of this remarkable opening, +there is enough to excite the greatest interest; since, from the +extent of the opening, the rapidity of the stream, and the great +rise and fall of the tides, there must be a very extensive gulf +or opening, totally different from everything that has been +before seen.</p> +<p>There is also good reason to suspect that the land between +Cape Leveque and Point Gantheaume is an island; and if so, the +mouth of this opening is eight miles wide; besides, who is to say +that the land even of Cape Villaret may not also be an island? +The French expedition only saw small portions of the coast to the +southward; but it does not appear probable that the opening +extends to the southward of Cape Villaret. (See above.)</p> +<p>Thirty-three miles in a North 14 degrees West direction from +the summit of Caffarelli Island is ADELE ISLAND. It is low, and +merely covered with a few shrubs, and is about three miles from +east to west, and from one to one and a half broad; its west end +is in 15 degrees 30 minutes South, and 123 degrees 9 minutes 15 +seconds East. At about a league North-West from its western end +are two bare sandy islets, which were uncovered as we passed, but +which as there was not the slightest appearance of vegetation +upon it, may be covered at high water. On the western side of +Adele Island, is an extensive patch of light-coloured water, in +some parts of which the sea broke upon the rocks, which were only +just below the surface. The light-coloured water extends for +fourteen miles North West by West 1/2 West from Adele Island, but +there is reason to think that the water is deep over the greater +part of it; for we crossed over its tail, and sounded in +forty-five fathoms without finding bottom, whilst in the +darker-coloured water on either side of it, we had forty-two and +forty-four fathoms.</p> +<p>POINT SWAN is the north-easternmost point of the land of Cape +Leveque; it has an island close off its extremity, round which +the tide rushes with great force, and forms a line of ripplings +for ten miles to the West-North-West, through which, even in the +Bathurst, we found it dangerous to pass. Five miles to the +north-eastward of the point are two small rocky islets, two miles +apart from each other.</p> +<p>CAPE LEVEQUE is low and rocky, with a small islet close to its +extremity: its extreme is in latitude 16 degrees 21 minutes 50 +seconds, and longitude 122 degrees 56 minutes 35 seconds. Between +the cape and Point Swan, there is a sandy bay, fronted by a bed +of rocks. It was in this bay that the Buccaneers anchored, which +Dampier has so well described.</p> +<p>The coast between CAPES LEVEQUE and BORDA extending South 40 +degrees West nineteen miles, is low and rocky, and the country +sandy and unproductive. Between Cape Borda and Point Emeriau is a +bay ten miles deep, backed by very low sandy land; and five miles +further is another bay, that appeared to be very shoal: thence +the coast extends to the South-West for twenty-three miles to +CAPE BASKERVILLE; it is low and sandy, like that to the +northward, but the interior is higher, and with some appearance +of vegetation.</p> +<p>Thirteen miles from the shore are the LACEPEDE ISLANDS; they +are three in number, and surrounded by a reef nine miles long by +five wide. They lie in a North-West direction, and are two miles +apart: the north-westernmost is in latitude 16 degrees 49 minutes +40 seconds, and longitude 122 degrees 7 minutes 20 seconds: they +are low and slightly clothed with bushes, and seem to be little +more than the dry parts of the reef, on which a soil has been +accumulated, and in time produced vegetation. These islands +appear to be the haunt of prodigious numbers of boobies. The +variation is 0 degrees 12 minutes West.</p> +<p>In latitude 16 degrees 46 minutes, and longitude 121 degrees +50 minutes 30 seconds, the French have placed a reef, BANC DES +BALEINES; which we did not approach near enough to see.</p> +<p>Between Capes Baskerville and Berthollet, is CARNOT BAY; it is +six miles deep, and backed by low land. The bottom of the bay was +not distinctly seen, but from the appearance of the land behind +the beach, it is not improbable that there may be a rivulet +falling into it.</p> +<p>At POINT COULOMB, in latitude 17 degrees 21 minutes, where +there is a range of dark red cliffs, the coast commences to +present a more verdant and pleasing appearance than to the north: +the interior rises to an unusual height, and forms a round-backed +hill, covered with trees: it reminded us of the appearance of the +country of the north coast, and is so different from the rugged +and barren character of the Islands of Buccaneer's Archipelago as +to afford an additional ground for our conjecture of the +insularity of this land. The red cliffs extend for four miles to +the southward of Point Coulomb, and are then superseded by a low +coast, composed alternately of rocky shores and sandy +beaches.</p> +<p>CAPE BOILEAU is seventeen miles to the south of Point Coulomb; +here the shore trends in and forms a bay fifteen miles wide and +six deep: the south head is the land of Point Gantheaume, which +is composed of sandhills very bare of vegetation, as was also the +character of the interior. From Point Gantheaume, in latitude 17 +degrees 53 minutes, the coast trends to the South-East for about +fifteen miles, where it was lost to view in distance: the extreme +was a low sandy point, and appeared to be the south extremity of +the land. The space to the south of this, which appeared to be a +strait, insulating the land to the north as far as Cape Leveque, +is nine miles wide. The south shore trends to the westward to +Cape Villaret, on which there is a remarkable hillock, in +latitude 18 degrees 19 minutes 5 seconds, and longitude 122 +degrees 3 minutes 45 seconds.</p> +<p>The space between the Cape and Point Gantheaume was called +ROEBUCK BAY. It is here that Captain Dampier landed, in the year +1688.</p> +<p>Three miles to the south of the hillock on Cape Villaret, are +two lumps, which at a distance appeared like rocks. Cape +Latouche-Treville has a small hummock near its extremity, in +latitude 18 degrees 29 minutes, and longitude 121 degrees 50 +minutes 50 seconds; to the eastward of it, there is a shallow bay +open to the northward.</p> +<p>The depth of water in the offing of Roebuck Bay, is between +eight and twelve fathoms; the bottom is sandy, and there are in +some parts sandbanks, on which the depth decreased three fathoms +at one heave, but the least water was eight fathoms. The +flood-tide sets to the eastward, towards the opening, and at an +anchorage near Cape Latouche-Treville, the ebb ran to the +North-East: but the tides were at the neaps, and did not rise +more than sixteen feet. Captain Dampier, at the springs, found it +flow thirty feet, which tends unquestionably to prove the opening +behind Roebuck Bay to be considerable, even if it does not +communicate with that behind the Buccaneer's Archipelago.</p> +<p>The interval between Cape Latouche-Treville and Depuch Island, +was not seen by us. The following brief description of it is +taken from M. De Freycinet's account of Commodore Baudin's +voyage.</p> +<p>LAGRANGE BAY, to the east of Cape Bossut, is a bight, the +bottom of which was not seen. CAPE BOSSUT is low and sandy, as +well as the neighbouring land; and, with the exception of a small +grove of trees a little to the north of Cape Duhamel, the country +is sterile everywhere.</p> +<p>The CASUARINA REEF is a bank of sand and rocks, parts of which +are dry, on which the sea occasionally breaks. The channel +between it and the shore is narrow and shoal, the depth being two +and a half fathoms. The dry part of the reef extends from east to +west for about two miles.</p> +<p>Between CAPES DUHAMEL and MISSIESSY, the coast is sandy and +sterile, with rocky projections: GEOFFROY and DESAULT BAYS are of +the same character.</p> +<p>With the exception of two intervals, one of which is to the +west of Cape Missiessy, and the other to the east of the Bancs +des Planaires, the French saw the coast between Capes Missiessy +and Keraudren, but at a great distance. It appeared low and +sterile.</p> +<p>The BANCS DES PLANAIRES appeared to have a considerable +longitudinal extent; it was not ascertained whether they joined +the mainland: some parts seemed to be dry at low water.</p> +<p>There is a bank with only fourteen feet water over it, +situated nearly North-East from Cape Keraudren in 19 degrees 41 +minutes latitude.</p> +<p>North, a little westerly, from CAPE LARREY, between which and +Cape Keraudren there is a bay with an island (POISSONNIER) in the +entrance, is BEDOUT ISLAND. It is in latitude 19 degrees 29 +minutes, longitude 116 degrees 32 minutes, East of Paris, or 118 +degrees 52 minutes East of Greenwich. It is low and sandy.</p> +<p>The BANC DES AMPHINOMES is very extensive, and appeared to be +connected with the main; it is composed of coral, rocks, and +sand.</p> +<p>The coast to the South-West of Cape Larrey is, as well as the +Cape itself, of a remarkable red colour. The country appeared to +be sterile.</p> +<p>TURTLE ISLANDS, two in number, lie West-North-West from Cape +Larrey: the south-westernmost is merely a flat sandy islet +(PLATEAU DE SABLE) the other is surrounded by a reef of coral, +upon which the sea breaks. The Casuarina (M. De Freycinet's +vessel) had nine fathoms within half a mile of it; the reef +appeared to be steep, and the island to afford a landing in fine +weather.</p> +<p>The land is equally low and sandy as far as CAPE THOUIN and +CAPE COSSIGNY.</p> +<p>The GEOGRAPHE REEFS extend for more than twelve miles, and +perhaps are joined to the land. Their southern parts dry at low +water. The Geographe sailed through them, so that it is probable +they are detached in numerous reefs.</p> +<p>At FORESTIER ISLANDS we saw the coast again. The main is here +very low, but from the shoalness of the water we were not able to +penetrate behind Depuch Island. It is very uncertain whether the +coastline that is laid down upon the chart is correct: it was +scarcely visible from the deck, and was so low that it might have +merely been the dry parts of extensive reefs. The high land +retires for fifteen or twenty miles, and forms an amphitheatre or +deep bay, with some hills of considerable elevation in the +distance.</p> +<p>All the islands of this group are low and sandy, excepting +DEPUCH, which is high, and of a very peculiar formation; it is +described in the first volume.</p> +<p>We did not land upon it, but on its north-east side there +appeared to be a bay, on which the French found a stream of +water.</p> +<p>Between DEPUCH ISLAND and CAPE LAMBERT the coast is very +shoal. Towards the latter the hills approach the sea, and the +bottom is deeper. BEZOUT ISLAND is connected to the cape by a +reef, on which there are several dry rocks; we passed close round +its north-east edge, and had eleven fathoms.</p> +<p>To the westward of Cape Lambert, in latitude 20 degrees 24 +minutes 30 seconds, and longitude 117 degrees 7 minutes, there +are two deep openings, which appeared to be merely bays, but +their bottom was not distinctly seen. On the top of the hill of +the projecting point that separates them, there are three +remarkable rocky summits. The next point has several round-backed +hills upon it; it is the east head of NICKOL'S BAY, into which +there may possibly fall one or more streams; its shores are low, +and appeared to be lined with mangroves. Nickol's Bay affords +good anchorage in six and seven fathoms, and is only exposed to +the North-East. It is protected from westerly winds by high land: +it is, however, rather exposed to the South-West winds, from the +little elevation of the land in that direction; but if a vessel +should drive, the passage between Bezout and Delambre Island is +clear and, as far as we know, free from danger.</p> +<p>DELAMBRE ISLAND has very extensive reefs stretching to the +northward, and also to the eastward, but on its western side did +not appear to extend for more than half a mile: the hill at the +north end of the island is in latitude 20 degrees 23 minutes 35 +seconds, and longitude 117 degrees 1 minute 25 seconds; the +passage between it and the reef off HAUY ISLAND, is about two +miles and a half wide, and from nine to ten fathoms deep. The +edge of the reef off the latter island is not well defined, for +we passed several straggling rocks.</p> +<p>LEGENDRE ISLAND is the northernmost of Dampier's Archipelago: +it is nine miles long, and from half to one and a half mile +broad: near its south-east end, which is connected to HAUY +ISLAND, there are several rocky islets, and near its extremity it +has three remarkable hillocks; its North-West point is in +latitude 20 degrees 18 minutes 45 seconds, and longitude 116 +degrees 46 minutes; its north-east coast and north-west extremity +are of bold approach: the latter has a reef that fronts its +shores, extending for about a quarter of a mile into the sea; the +ground under its lee is rocky, and not safe to anchor near. Our +cable hooked a rock, fortunately however it was rotten, and broke +away, so that the cable, being a chain was not damaged.</p> +<p>The islands of DAMPIER'S ARCHIPELAGO, are of high rocky +character, and very different from either the coast or the +islands in their vicinity. It consists of about twenty islands, +besides smaller ones, scattered over a space of forty miles in +extent: Delambre is the easternmost island, and a small sandy +island to the South-West of Enderby Island is the +westernmost.</p> +<p>GIDLEY ISLAND, and two others to the eastward, extend in a +north and south direction; they are high and rocky. The west +shore of Gidley Island appeared to be fronted by a continuous +reef, on which some patches of dry rocks were observed. Gidley +Island is separated from Legendre Island by a very shoal and +rocky strait, apparently impassable for anything larger than +boats. It has several small sandy islets scattered about it, and +at low water the greater part is dry. There is doubtless a deep +passage through, but it must be intricate and dangerous, and only +to be attempted in a case of the most pressing emergency. On the +island to the southward, are two sandy bays. The land to the +southward is doubtless a part of the main: and is, like the other +islands, high and rocky. It forms the eastern shore of MERMAID's +STRAIT, which is an excellent port, affording safe and secure +anchorage at all seasons.</p> +<p>The islands on the western side of the strait, are LEWIS and +MALUS. The north-east point of the latter island, COURTENAY HEAD, +is, without doubt, Captain Dampier's Bluff Head. It is a very +remarkable point; its summit is in 20 degrees 29 minutes 5 +seconds South, and 116 degrees 36 minutes 35 seconds East. On its +west side is a sandy bay with good anchorage in four and five +fathoms. Malus Island is separated from Lewis Island by a strait +a mile wide; it is probably deep.</p> +<p>The north-east point of LEWIS ISLAND is a narrow projecting +tongue of land, terminating in a high rocky lump; and to the +southward of it, are two high rocky islets of similar appearance. +There is also another, but of smaller size, off the south-east +point of Malus Island. In the centre of Lewis Island there is a +valley, that stretches across to the opposite sides of the +island, forming a bay on either side.</p> +<p>To the south of Lewis Island is a group of islands, which, +from the circumstance of our communicating with the natives, was +called INTERCOURSE ISLANDS. They are all small. The largest has a +remarkable summit upon it, in latitude 20 degrees 37 minutes 50 +seconds, and longitude 116 degrees 36 minutes 45 seconds: it is +from this Island that the natives drove us, and would not allow +us to land.* The channel between them and Lewis Island is more +than a mile wide, and is seven and eight fathoms deep.</p> +<blockquote>(*Footnote. Vide volume 1.)</blockquote> +<p>ENDERBY ISLAND is separated from Lewis Island by a channel one +mile and a half wide, apparently clear and free from danger. Its +south-west point is ROCKY HEAD, the summit of which was found to +be in latitude 20 degrees 35 minutes 25 seconds, and longitude +116 degrees 23 minutes 5 seconds. To the north is GOODWYN ISLAND; +and further north, and West-North-West from Malus Island, from +which it is separated by a strait two miles and a half wide, is +ROSEMARY ISLAND, which, when viewed from the North-North-East or +South-South-West, has three hummocks bearing from each other West +by North and East by South. The centre hummock is in latitude 20 +degrees 27 minutes 30 seconds, and longitude 116 degrees 31 +minutes. In the vicinity of Rosemary and Goodwyn Islands are +several small rocky islands, particularly on the north-east side +of the former; and at the distance of three miles, to the north +of the centre of Malus Island, is a patch of flat rocks, which +are those seen and noticed by Dampier (Dampier volume 3 page 81 +table 4 Number 10) but from his vague account, it is not at all +certain what island he saw; and, was it not for the peculiarity +and remarkable appearance of Courtenay Head, it might have been +any of the others. There is good anchorage in all parts about the +Archipelago, particularly within Lewis Island, where the +Intercourse Islands will shelter a ship from whatever point the +wind may blow.</p> +<p>There is no wood of any size to be procured among the islands, +which is a great drawback upon its utility as a port. In the +rainy season water is doubtless abundant, but must be soon +evaporated. We saw no rivulet or any fresh water, excepting a few +gallons that were protected from the heat of the sun by being +under the shade of a fig, but from the number of natives seen by +us, it is probable that there must be a large quantity not far +off. The natives of this part use logs to convey them from and to +the islands. A small sandy island, with a reef extending for two +miles from its north-west end, and one mile and a half from its +south-east end, lies off the south-west end of Enderby Island, +and would serve as a good protection from the sea in a South-West +wind, for the anchorage on the south side of Enderby Island.</p> +<p>The mainland is high and rocky behind the islands, but at the +bottom of the bay again assumes a low character: more to the +westward, a range of hills rises abruptly and advances for +fourteen miles in a North-West direction from the interior, and +reaches the shores of the bay, when it extends for eleven miles +to the westward, and is then terminated by a valley, or an +opening of one mile and a half wide, that separates it from the +rocky hills of CAPE PRESTON. The cape juts out into the sea, and +is connected by reefs to some low sandy islands to the +North-East; it is in latitude 20 degrees 49 minutes 45 seconds, +and longitude 116 degrees 5 minutes. In the centre of the bay, at +eight miles North 64 degrees East from the extremity of the cape, +is a low, sandy islet, of about one-third of a mile in diameter; +and behind it, near the shores of the bay, there appeared to be +other islands of the same size and character, the particular form +and situation of which could not be distinguished.</p> +<p>There is a small rocky islet off Cape Preston, and some to the +South-South-West, in which direction the shore trends in and +forms a bay, the shores of which were not seen.</p> +<p>From Cape Preston the coast assumes a very different character +from that to the eastward, being less sinuous, very low, and +either fronted by mangroves, or by a range of sandhills, both of +which conceal the interior. The coast, at from three to seven +miles, is fronted by a range of low, sandy islets, from one +quarter to two-thirds of a mile in diameter: there are, however, +two or three near Cape Preston of larger size, particularly one +bearing South 66 degrees West, fifteen miles from the extremity +of the cape, of rocky character, but very level, and apparently +sterile; it is nearly circular, and about two miles in diameter. +It is visible for about five leagues.</p> +<p>Thirty miles South-West by South from Cape Preston is a +mangrove bight, with several openings communicating with a large +lagoon, or body of water, at the base of a small range of hills. +The bight is shoal and thickly studded with sandy islets. Hence +the coast extends to the South-West by West, fronted by mangroves +for about forty miles, and then for about sixteen miles +South-West to the entrance of Curlew River.</p> +<p>Between Curlew River and Cape Preston, a space of eighty-five +miles, there are not less than thirty sandy islets in sight from +the coast, separated from each other by channels, generally +navigable, between one to five miles wide. Good anchorage may be +found among these islands, for the sea cannot fail of being +smooth in the strongest winds. The depth among these islands is +from four to six fathoms, and the bottom generally of gravel or +sand.</p> +<p>CURLEW RIVER is defended by a shoal entrance, and is merely a +creek running through a low country for three miles; its banks +are overrun with mangroves, and it affords no inducement whatever +for vessels to visit it. The country behind is low, and, at +spring tides, or during the rainy season, is inundated.</p> +<p>The coast continues low and sandy to CAPE LOCKER, a distance +of thirteen miles, and with the same barren character for twenty +miles further, forming the east side of Exmouth Gulf. ROSILY, and +THEVENARD ISLES are low and sandy; they were seen by us at a +considerable distance.</p> +<p>BARROW'S ISLAND, of about forty miles in circumference, is of +moderate height and level aspect, but of very sterile and barren +appearance. A considerable reef extends towards the main from its +south-east side, where there is also a small islet: on the +north-east side are three islets; the two outermost of which are +low and rocky. The west coast of Barrow's Island was seen by the +French, who thought it was part of the main; they named its +north-west end, CAPE DUPUY, and its south end, CAPE POIVRE. At +ten miles South 25 degrees West from the last cape, the French +charts have assigned a position to a reef: and four miles North +10 degrees East from Cape Dupuy is another. Neither were noticed +by us, since we did not approach this part sufficiently near to +see them if they do exist; of which, from the account of the +French, there can be but little doubt.</p> +<p>LOWENDAL ISLAND and TRIMOUILLE ISLAND were seen by us, but not +any vestige of HERMITE ISLAND, which the French have placed in +their chart. From M. de Freycinet's account, the two latter +islands were seen at different times; and since Trimouille Island +has a reef extending for five miles from its north-western +extremity, as Hermite Island is described to have, there seems to +be good reason to suppose that there is but one; had there been +two, we should have seen it on passing this part in 1822.*</p> +<blockquote>(*Footnote. Vide volume 1.)</blockquote> +<p>From the reasons mentioned in the narrative, there remains no +doubt in my mind that Barrow's Island, and Lowendal and +Trimouille Islands (which the French called the Montebello +Islands) are the long lost TRYAL ROCKS. The latitude and +description answer very exactly; the longitude alone raises the +doubt, but the reckonings of former navigators cannot be depended +upon, and errors of ten or twelve degrees of longitude were not +rare, of which many proofs might be found, by comparing the +situations of places formerly determined with their position on +the charts of the present time. Many old navigators were not very +particular; and never gave the error of their account upon +arriving at their destined port, either from shame or from +carelessness and indifference.</p> +<p>A reef of rocks is said to exist in latitude 20 degrees 17 +minutes 40 seconds, and longitude 114 degrees 46 minutes 6 +seconds. They were seen by Lieutenant Ritchie, R.N., in the +command of a merchant brig, as appears by an account published in +the Sydney Gazette.</p> +<p>EXMOUTH GULF terminates the North-west Coast of Australia; it +is thirty-four miles wide at its entrance (between the North-west +Cape and Cape Locker) and forty-five miles deep. Its eastern side +is formed by a very low coast, the particulars of which were not +distinguished, for it is lined by an intricate cluster of islands +that we could not, having but one anchor, penetrate among. In the +entrance is Muiron Island, and two others, h and i; and within +the gulf they are too numerous to distinguish: all the outer ones +have been assigned correct positions to, as have all between +Exmouth Gulf and Dampier's Archipelago. The islets y and z are +the outer ones of the group; between which and the western shore +there is a space of fourteen miles in extent, quite free from +danger, with regular soundings between nine and twelve fathoms on +a sandy bottom. Under the western shore, which is the deepest, +there are some bays which will afford anchorage; but the bottom +is generally very rocky. In the neighbourhood of the Bay of Rest, +the shore is more sinuous, and in the bay there is good anchorage +in three and four fathoms, mud. Here the gulf is twelve miles +across, and from three to six fathoms deep; but the eastern side +is shoal and very low. The gulf then shoalens and narrows very +much; and at fifteen miles farther terminates in an inlet, or, as +has been subsequently conjectured, a strait communicating with +the sea at the south end of the high land that forms the western +side of the gulf, and which is doubtless the identical Cloates +Island that has puzzled navigators for the last eighty years. It +perfectly answers the descriptions that have been given; and the +only thing against it is the longitude; but this, like that of +the Tryal Rocks, is not to be attended to.</p> +<blockquote>(*Footnote. Vide below.)</blockquote> +<p>The south-west point of this land has been named Point Cloates +until its insularity shall be determined, when, for the sake of +Geography, the name of CLOATES ISLAND should be restored. At the +bottom of the south-eastern side of Exmouth Gulf the land is so +low and the islands so numerous, that it was in vain that we +attempted to examine its shores, which was also rendered still +more difficult and dangerous to persevere in doing, from our +losses of anchors, and the strong winds which blew every night +from the South-West.</p> +<p>The NORTH-WEST CAPE is a low, sandy point, projecting for full +two miles to the East-North-East from the fall of the land, which +was called VLAMING HEAD. There is a reef of small extent off the +cape, but separated from it by a channel half a mile wide, and +six fathoms deep; a sandy spit extends also from the cape for +about a quarter of a mile.</p> +<p>The extremity of the North-West Cape is in latitude 21 degrees +47 minutes 40 seconds, and longitude 114 degrees 3 minutes 40 +seconds; and Vlaming Head in latitude 21 degrees 48 minutes 40 +seconds, and longitude 114 degrees 1 minute 40 seconds.</p> +<hr align="center" width="20%"> +<h4>APPENDIX A. SECTION 5.</h4> +<p align="center">OF THE WINDS AND WEATHER, AND DESCRIPTION OF +THE WESTERN COAST BETWEEN THE NORTH-WEST CAPE AND CAPE +LEEUWIN.</p> +<p>NORTH-WEST COAST.</p> +<p>We did not obtain much experience of the winds upon this +coast, having only been upon it during the months of January and +February, when they prevailed between South-South-East and +South-South-West, veering sometimes, though rarely, to +South-West. In the winter season (June, July, and August) hard +gales of wind have been experienced from the North-West, even as +high as Shark's Bay; and at this season the coast ought not to be +approached. The South-east Trade is suspended in the +neighbourhood of the coast in the summer season, and the winds +are almost constant from South-South-West.</p> +<p>Between the North-west Cape and POINT CLOATES, which is in 22 +degrees 33 minutes 5 seconds South, a space of about fifty-two +miles, the shore is defended by a reef of rocks, extending from +three to five miles from it. The land is high and level, and of +most sterile appearance: nearer the north end there is a low, +sandy plain at the foot of the hills; but to the southward the +coast appeared to be steep and precipitous. This is evidently the +land that has been taken for Cloates Island; and, in fact, it is +not at all unlikely to be an island, for, to the southward of the +latter point, the shore trends in, and was so indistinctly seen, +that it probably communicates with the bottom of Exmouth Gulf.* +At latitude 23 degrees 10 minutes the coast slightly projects, +and is fronted by a reef, on which the sea was breaking +heavily.</p> +<blockquote>(*Footnote. Vide volume 1.)</blockquote> +<p>CAPE FARQUHAR, in latitude 23 degrees 35 minutes, and +longitude 113 degrees 35 minutes 35 seconds, is a low, sandy +point. To the northward of it the coast trends in and forms a +bay, but not deep enough to offer shelter from the prevailing +winds.</p> +<p>Between Cape Farquhar and Cape Cuvier the coast is low and +sandy; the land has a level outline, and the shore is formed by a +sandy beach, which did not appear to be fronted by rocks. The +land of CAPE CUVIER is high, level, and rocky, and, rising +abruptly from the sea, forms a bluff point, in latitude 24 +degrees 0 minutes 30 seconds, and longitude 113 degrees 21 +minutes 48 seconds. This promontory is the northern head of +Shark's Bay. The land was not seen by us to the South-East, and +is laid down, as is indeed the whole of Shark's Bay, from M. De +Freycinet's chart, which was drawn from the survey made of it in +Commodore Baudin's voyage.</p> +<p>The western coast of BERNIER and DORRE ISLANDS are bold to, +and are composed of a high, precipitous cliff, with a level +summit. The only irregularity upon them is a slight elevation on +the south end of the latter. Off the north end of Bernier Island +is the small islet called KOK'S. The channel between Bernier and +Dorre is about a mile and a half wide, but is so blocked up by +rocks as to be impassable.</p> +<p>DIRK HARTOG'S ISLAND extends from Cape Inscription, in +latitude 25 degrees 28 minutes 20 seconds, to 26 degrees 6 +minutes; it is here separated from Point Escarpee (Bluff Point) +by a strait, which has a shoal communication with Shark's Bay. +Dirk Hartog's Island is high, and of similar appearance to +Bernier and Dorre; it is fronted by a line of breakers. DIRK +HARTOG'S ROAD, at the north end of the island, is a commodious +roadstead, sheltered from all winds to the southward of east and +west; and, since they are the prevailing and almost constant +winds of this part, may be considered a very secure anchorage. +There is a reef extending off Cape Inscription for half a mile, +which will also afford protection from the sea, even should the +wind blow hard from the west. The beach of the bay is fronted by +coral rocks, but affords easy landing in all parts, particularly +at high water. This beach is covered with turtles' nests; and at +daylight thirty to fifty might be turned and embarked without any +difficulty or delay. The animals are easily taken, since the +rocks prevent their escaping into the sea; and it is only at high +water that they can return. M. De Freycinet says (page 189) that +there is a passage between the reef, off the east point of the +bay, and the shore with ten fathoms.</p> +<p>The following account of Shark's Bay is taken from M. De +Freycinet's account (page 189 et seq.)</p> +<p>In the fairway of the entrance to Shark's Bay, between Dorre +and Dirk Hartog's Islands, is DAMPIER'S REEF; it is two miles in +extent from east to west, and about one mile wide. It has but two +and a half and three fathoms water over it, and should be +approached with care, on account of the swell. Proceeding +southerly from Cape Levillain, which is the east head of Dirk +Hartog's Road, at the distance of five or six miles is a cove +(barachois) formed by reefs, where boats might obtain shelter. +Hence to Quoin Point (Coin-de-Mire) the coast has no sinuosities. +TETRODON BAY is seven miles wide and very shallow; it has two or +three sandy islets in it, and can only be entered by small boats. +Near Refuge Point is a safe and convenient creek. To the +southward of this there are several shoal bays. To the eastward +of Cape Ransonnet, which is peaked and of a moderate elevation, +there are several little creeks well adapted for boats and, to +the westward, a sandy plain extends to the south extremity of the +island. That part of Shark's Bay, between Dirk Hartog's Island +and Peron's Peninsula, is formed by Le Passage Epineux, Useless +Harbour (Havre Inutile) and Henry Freycinet's Harbour: to the +southward of the line of bearing between Quoin Point and Cape +Lesueur, the sea is shoal and studded with banks, but to the +north it is quite open.</p> +<p>The Passage Epineux, which separates Dirk Hartog's Island from +the main, is about two miles wide; but the reefs and rocks, which +protrude from either shore, reduce the passage to half that +width. The depth upon the rocky bar which stretches across the +entrance is six fathoms, but immediately without it the depth is +twenty-two fathoms. M. De Freycinet says, that a ship upon a lee +shore in the vicinity of Point Escarpee may enter this opening +with confidence; she will find a good shelter and excellent +anchorage in five and six fathoms fine sand. To enter it, pass in +mid-channel, if anything, borrowing upon Point Escarpee, and +steer for the Mondrain de Direction, and pass over the bar +without fearing the breakers upon it, which are caused by the +sudden decrease of depth, from twenty-two to six fathoms; after +this the depth will continue without altering more than one +fathom. The best anchorage is to the South-West of Cape +Ransonnet, for within it the passage is blocked up by shoals, +over which a boat cannot without difficulty pass.</p> +<p>USELESS HARBOUR is so shoal as to be, according to its name, +quite unserviceable; since boats can with difficulty penetrate to +the bottom, although its length is twenty-one miles: HENRY +FREYCINET HARBOUR is twenty-two leagues long in a South-East +direction; and from three to six leagues wide. Its entrance is +blocked up by a bar; and, although the depth within is in some +parts considerable, it is very doubtful whether ships can enter +it. The shores are difficult to land upon, from the shoals +extending so far off.</p> +<p>On the western side of this harbour there are several inlets +and deep bays, but too shoal to be of any service. The eastern +shore of the harbour is formed by PERON'S PENINSULA, which +separates it from HAMELIN'S HARBOUR. It is sixteen leagues long +and five leagues wide. DAMPIER'S BAY, at the north-west end, +contains several sandy bays, where boats may almost always land. +It is here that the French had their observatory.</p> +<p>From the northern point of the peninsula, Pointe des +Hauts-Fonds, the reefs extend for three leagues to the North and +North-North-West. They were then supposed to extend to the +North-East.</p> +<p>The French only examined the western shores of Hamelin +Harbour. The opposite coast was seen only at a distance, and the +shoalness of the water prevented their boats from approaching it. +M. De Freycinet says: "Ces terres, basses et steriles, ne +contiennent aucune coupure; l'uniformite y est par-tout +complete," page 194.</p> +<p>Although Hamelin Harbour is not so deep as that of Henry +Freycinet, on the opposite side of Peron's Peninsula, it is +nevertheless of larger size. The centre is much occupied by +banks, which entirely surround FAURE ISLAND; the diameter of +which is about two leagues.</p> +<p>Although many sandy beaches were seen at a distance upon the +eastern shore of Shark's Bay, yet the boats of the French ships +could not reach the shore on account of the reefs which front it. +Here and there they distinguished red cliffs, and some signs of a +scanty and burnt up vegetation.</p> +<p>Of the anchorages in Shark's Bay, the most convenient appears +to be that in Dampier's Bay, at the north-west end of Peron's +Peninsula, as well on account of the excellency of the +holding-ground, as the facility of procuring fuel. The +Naturaliste remained a long time at this anchorage, and never +experienced any ill effect from the winds. The distance from the +shore was six miles, and the depth six fathoms, fine sandy +bottom. The sea was so clear, that the anchor was easily +distinguished. The Naturaliste found only occasion to moor with a +kedge, merely to keep the cable clear of the anchor. As the +strongest winds were the South and East, the bower anchor was +laid in the latter direction.</p> +<p>The above seems to be all that is worth taking from M. De +Freycinet's account as regards the navigation of Shark's Bay. The +coasts of the harbours of Henry Freycinet and Hamelin are much +more detailed by him, and there is also much valuable information +upon various heads, particularly as to meteorological +observations, and the productions of the land and sea, and a +curious example of the effect of a mirage; but as these subjects +are irrelevant to the matter of this paper, they have been +disregarded.</p> +<p>From POINT ESCARPEE to GANTHEAUME BAY, the coast is formed by +a precipitous range of rocky cliffs, rising abruptly from the +sea, to the height perhaps of three or four hundred feet. The +coast is fringed with an uninterrupted line of breakers. The +summit of the land is so level, and the coast so uniform, that no +summits or points could be set with any chance of recognizing +them. The depth at ten miles off the shore, was between fifty and +seventy fathoms, decreasing to thirty-four in the neighbourhood +of Gantheaume Bay.</p> +<p>GANTHEAUME BAY probably affords shelter on its south side from +South-West winds: there was some appearance of an opening in it, +but Vlaming, who sent a boat on shore here, has not mentioned it; +and if there is one, it is of very small size, and unimportant. +The shores of the bay are low and of sterile appearance.</p> +<p>RED POINT, a steep cliffy projection, is the north extremity +of a range of reddish-coloured cliffs, of about two hundred feet +high, that extends to the southward for eight miles, when a sandy +shore commences and continues with little variation, except +occasional rocky projections and sometimes rocky bays, as far as +Cape Burney. The coast is moderately high, and, in the interior, +some hills of an unusual height for this part of the coast are +seen. MOUNT NATURALISTE is in latitude 28 degrees 18 minutes, and +between the latitudes 28 degrees 25 minutes and 28 degrees 55 +minutes, is MORESBY'S FLAT-TOPPED RANGE. It is terminated at the +north end by three hills, called MENAI HILLS; and at the southern +end, by the WIZARD HILLS. MOUNT FAIRFAX is in latitude 28 degrees +45 minutes 30 seconds, and longitude 114 degrees 38 minutes 45 +seconds. The coast in front of this range is of pleasing and +verdant appearance; two or three small openings in the sandy +beach, with an evident separation in the hills behind, +particularly one in latitude 28 degrees 36 minutes, bore +indications of rivulets; and the smokes of natives' fires, and +the more wooded character of the coast, showed that the country +was evidently more fertile and productive than any other part +between Cape Leeuwin and the North-west Cape. The bottom at from +ten to twelve miles off, is from twenty to twenty-five fathoms +deep, and composed of a fine sand, of a dark gray colour.</p> +<p>CAPE BURNEY is in latitude 28 degrees 56 minutes: four miles +to the southward is a reef, apparently detached from the +shore.</p> +<p>HOUTMAN'S ABROLHOS. The old Dutch charts give a very +considerable extent to this reef; Van Keulen makes it cover a +space of sea, forty-seven miles long, and twenty-five broad. We +only saw the islands at the south end, with three detached reefs +between them and the shore; one of which (the southernmost) may +probably be the TURTLE DOVE. The islands lie West 4 degrees North +true, forty-one miles from Cape Burney, but the channel (GEELVINK +CHANNEL) between the shore and the reefs, is not more than +twenty-six miles wide. The south-easternmost reef that we saw is +about three miles long, and lies nearly ten miles South 55 +degrees East from the islands; it appeared to be covered, but the +sea was breaking high over it. In passing this part of the coast, +Captain Hamelin, who commanded the Naturaliste under Commodore +Baudin's orders, must have steered within the reefs, as the +Geelvink (Vlaming's ship) did. The reef that is laid down upon +the chart, in latitude 29 degrees 10 minutes is from Van Keulen. +We did not see it. (See Horsburgh volume 1 page 98.)</p> +<p>From Cape Burney the coast is rather low and sandy; in 29 +degrees 16 minutes is a reef; and seven miles more to the south +is another; they lie from five to seven miles from the shore.</p> +<p>In latitude 29 degrees 6 minutes 30 seconds, there is a small +peaked hillock; and in 29 degrees 17 minutes 50 seconds, a small +sandy patch upon the land.</p> +<p>Between latitudes 29 degrees 25 minutes and 29 degrees 55 +minutes, we did not see the coast, having passed it in the night. +It is laid down from Van Keulen's chart. Hence to Island Point, +which is low and rocky, the shore is lined with reefs, extending +off shore for two to four miles. At the back of this, and at +about eight miles from the coast, is a rocky range, of three +leagues in length, on which are MOUNTS PERON and LESUEUR.</p> +<p>To the south of ISLAND POINT, are two bays fronted by reefs; +the southernmost, JURIEN BAY, has three or more small islets in +it. The coast to the south of the bay is sandy. In latitude 30 +degrees 37 minutes, are three small rocky lumps, very remarkably +placed; the middle one is in latitude 30 degrees 37 minutes 40 +seconds: fourteen miles to the south of these are two others, the +north-easternmost is in latitude 30 degrees 51 minutes 50 +seconds, they are very conspicuously placed upon a ridge of bare +white sand. Hence the coast winds to the South-South-East for +eighty miles as far as the entrance of Swan River. The coast is +low and slightly wooded, and lined with reefs, that in some +places extend for two miles from the shore. Off CAPE LESCHENAULT +(in latitude 31 degrees 21 minutes) is a reef, lying six miles +and a half from the shore; it appeared to be connected with the +rocks that line the coast.</p> +<p>The following account of SWAN RIVER is taken from Captain De +Freycinet's account of Baudin's voyage (page 175 et seq).</p> +<p>"The mouth of Swan River is in latitude 32 degrees 4 minutes +31 seconds, and longitude 113 degrees 26 minutes 28 seconds East +of Paris, or (115 degrees 46 minutes 43 seconds East of +Greenwich). The channel is obstructed by a bar of rocks, which it +is very difficult to pass over, and, indeed, impracticable if the +wind blows from the sea. On entering, the passage is on the +starboard side: it is narrow and shoal, and divided into two +channels; in each of which there is from five to six feet of +water; after passing this, there is seven and eight feet: the +course must then be towards the west, to avoid two shoals, which +are upon the right bank: after half a mile the navigation is +free, and in mid-channel the depth is not less than seven, eight, +and nine feet. The river then trends in a northerly direction for +seven miles, without any sinuosity of consequence. On the eastern +bank, are two shoals; the passage is then on the opposite side of +the river, the depth of which is eight feet: beyond these banks +the course of the river trends to the eastward towards a low +point, upon which there is a solitary tree; an extensive bank +fronts this point, and the channel continues on the western +shore, ten feet deep. Here the river is a mile broad; it then +increases its width, and forms spacious bays on either side, that +were not examined. To the South-East is an opening, which may +probably be an arm of the river; it was called MOREAU INLET; it +was not examined. Opposite to it is a sharp point, fronted by a +shoal, and the channel is on the eastern side of the river, with +thirteen feet water. Here the river widens and forms a basin, two +miles and a half wide: a little above this the river is blocked +up by shoals and islets (HEIRISSON ISLES) between which the depth +is not more than two or three feet, but afterwards deepens +gradually from five to fifteen feet: the banks of the river are +then not more than one-third of a mile wide, and then continue in +a serpentine course, with a channel from seven to ten feet deep, +and free from shoals, as far as the French boats examined it. The +stream of the river ran very slowly, and winds through a valley, +one side of which is abrupt and precipitous, and when it ceases +to be so on one side, the heights immediately appear on the +other."</p> +<p>In front of this river is a group of islands, of which two +only are of large size, namely, ROTTNEST and BUACHE. We anchored +on the north side of the former, but broke the fluke, from the +rocky nature of the bottom. On the North-East side of the island, +the anchorage is better, since it is more sheltered. Rottnest +Island is five miles long: it was discovered by Vlaming in 1696. +Its shores are very rocky and difficult to land upon, +particularly those of its northern side, which is fronted by +rocks. Off its north point there are some rocky islets, and on +the north-east side a convenient landing place in a sandy bay, +where boats may put ashore with great facility. The island is +covered with a pine-like tree, which is very good for fire-wood, +but no fresh water was found in any part; the French were equally +unsuccessful in their search. The north-east point of Rottnest +Island is in 31 degrees 59 minutes 30 seconds South, and 115 +degrees 31 minutes 12 seconds East; and the variation 4 degrees +50 minutes West. BUACHE ISLAND, according to Captain De +Freycinet's account (page 170) is equally difficult to land upon; +it is well wooded, but destitute of fresh water.</p> +<p>To the south of CAPE PERON is a long range of sandy coast, for +seventy miles, to GEOGRAPHE BAY, which is open and exposed to the +northward and north-west; its western head is formed by Cape +Naturaliste, a rocky point, in latitude 33 degrees 27 minutes 30 +seconds, and longitude 114 degrees 57 minutes 53 seconds, beyond +which the coast extends to the southward, without any bays to +Cape Leeuwin. Off the cape is Naturaliste Reef, in latitude 33 +degrees 12 minutes, and longitude 114 degrees 59 minutes 8 +seconds; it was seen by the French expedition. The land is here +of a moderate height, but of level aspect. There is a remarkable +patch of bare sand, in latitude 34 degrees 12 minutes, and +longitude 114 degrees 57 minutes. It is the Tache blanche +remarquable of De Freycinet's chart. It lies about seven miles +from the south extreme of the island.</p> +<hr align="center" width="20%"> +<h4>APPENDIX A. SECTION 6.</h4> +<p align="center">OF THE WINDS AND WEATHER UPON THE SOUTH COAST. +DIRECTIONS FOR KING GEORGE THE THIRD'S SOUND, AND HYDROGRAPHICAL +REMARKS RELATING TO BASS STRAIT.</p> +<p>SOUTH COAST.</p> +<p>Between the meridians of Cape Leeuwin and Bass Strait, the +weather is generally very unsettled and tempestuous; and, at +certain seasons, very much against a ship making the western +passage from Port Jackson, which is by passing through Bass +Strait, and along the south coast; but it so happens that at the +time when ships cannot proceed through Torres Strait, by reason +of the Westerly Monsoon, namely, from the month of December to +that of March, easterly winds prevail upon the south coast, and +are more regular and strong in that space between the land and +the parallel of Bass Strait.* I have been told that the +south-westerly gales that sometimes occur during that season, +seldom, if ever, blow home upon the coast; and that when they do +reach the land, they partake more of the character of the sea +breeze; be that as it may, a ship steering to the westward should +keep to the north of 40 degrees, in order to benefit by the +regularity of the wind, which to the south of that parallel +generally blows from some western quarter. From April to October +the westerly gales are very constant, and veer between South by +West and North by East; but, in the months of June and July, +seldom veer to the southward of South-West or northward of +North-West; they are then accompanied by a deep and heavy sea. +The wind, in the summer season, generally revolves with the sun, +and, as the atmosphere becomes more dense, veers to the +South-East, with fine weather.</p> +<blockquote>(*Footnote. Horsburgh volume 2 page +506.)</blockquote> +<p>The marine barometer is here of considerable importance, as +its rise always precedes a south-east wind, and its fall a change +from the North-West; it seldom, however, stands lower than +twenty-nine and a half inches. The currents generally set to the +north, and seldom run with any velocity either to the east or +west. A ship steering along this coast to the eastward, bound to +Port Jackson through Torres Strait, should steer upon the +parallel of 41 degrees, to avoid being thrown into the bight to +the west of Cape Northumberland, where with a South-East wind, +that would otherwise be fair for carrying her through Bass +Strait, she would be detained probably a week.</p> +<p>Upon making Van Diemen's Land, she is ready for either a +northerly or a southerly wind; since, with the former, she can +round Van Diemen's Land, without suffering much detention, or +materially lengthening her voyage.</p> +<p>KING GEORGE THE THIRD'S SOUND was discovered by Captain +Vancouver in the year 1791, on his celebrated voyage to the +North-west Coast of America. It offers an excellent resort for +vessels, and is convenient for all the purposes of refitting, +wooding, and watering. The natives are friendly; the banks of +Oyster Harbour afford a large abundance of oysters and other +shell-fish, and the harbours and rivers are well-stocked with +fish and birds.</p> +<p>There are many convenient anchorages in the sound; the best +place for a large ship, when it is necessary to refit the rigging +at the same time that she is completing her wood and water, is +PRINCESS ROYAL HARBOUR; but for a small vessel, not drawing more +than eleven feet, OYSTER HARBOUR is preferable, because she is +secured to within one hundred yards of the shore, and therefore +better situated for the protection of her people at their +occupations from the natives, who are numerous, and will daily +visit them. But, for a ship only wanting fuel and water, there is +a sandy bay in the south-west corner of the sound, in which two +or three streams of excellent water run into the sea over the +sand, from which a ship might complete her hold in a day or two, +by digging a well to collect it. Wood may also be procured at +this place, but not of so large a size, or perhaps of so good a +quality as at other parts. This bay is readily found, by its +being the first to the westward of a rocky point, that projects +from some remarkable bare sand hillocks, as also from its being +the second sandy beach to the westward of the low flat rocky +islet at the back of Seal Island.</p> +<p>The anchorage is good, being a bottom of sand and weeds, and +is sufficiently protected from easterly winds by BREAKSEA and +MICHAELMAS ISLANDS. The anchorage between SEAL ISLAND and the +first sandy beach to the westward of BALD HEAD, with the low flat +rocky islet bearing west, in six or seven fathoms sand and weeds, +should be preferred during the summer months; for the easterly +winds then prevail, and sometimes blow strong, even as late as +March; the anchorage is landlocked, excepting in the direction of +East by North, the only quarter to which it is exposed, and even +in that direction the angle subtending the sea horizon is not +greater than ten degrees of the circle, which is of insignificant +consequence.</p> +<p>There is no water nearer to this anchorage than in the sandy +bay above mentioned, but the distance is trifling for a ship that +can send boats with men enough to protect themselves while +employed in filling the casks, for notwithstanding the friendly +communication we have had with the inhabitants of this sound, +they are not to be trusted, unless their character is different +from the rest of their countrymen that we have seen.</p> +<p>Water is procured at Princess Royal and Oyster Harbours by +digging holes at the edge of the sand under the hills; but, at +the latter place, the stream that we used outside the bar affords +plenty, of excellent quality, without the trouble of digging.</p> +<p>Over the bar of Oyster Harbour there is not more than ten and +a half feet at low water, and in the neaps twelve feet at high +water; but it is likely that, at spring-tides, there may be +fourteen feet, or perhaps more if the wind is blowing into the +harbour; but during the springs high water always takes place at +night, and it would not, therefore, be prudent to attempt to pass +the bar at that time.</p> +<p>A vessel intending to go to Oyster Harbour should anchor off +the sandy beach immediately to the eastward of the entrance, that +is, between the breakers off the point and the bar, in three +fathoms sand, bringing the summit of Green Island, in the +harbour, on with the extremity of the bushes of the west point of +entrance, and the highest part of Breaksea Island in a line with +the outer point of the bay: a boat should then be sent to sound +the bar. The mark for the deepest part is when the western summit +of some flat-topped land, at the back of Oyster Harbour, is a +little open of the rocks off the east side of the entrance.</p> +<p>After the bar is passed, the channel is deepest when the +centre of the flat land is kept midway between the points of +entrance, avoiding a spit of rocks that projects from the rocky +point at the west end of the watering beach. The strongest winds +are from the westward, and therefore bower anchors should be +placed to the south-west and north-west: warps and the stream +cable will be sufficient to secure her from easterly winds, as +the hills rise immediately over the vessel on that shore. If the +run of water outside the bar should fail, holes may be dug at the +edge of the grass, about three feet deep, which will yield a +sufficient quantity in two or three days for any vessel that can +pass over it.</p> +<p>The flood-tide in the entrance generally ran sixteen hours, +and ebbed eight hours. High water at full and change took place +at 10 hours 10 minutes at night; but on the bar the rise and fall +was very irregular, and a vessel going in should pay great +attention to the depth, if her draught is more than ten feet, for +it sometimes rises suddenly two feet. The spring-tides take place +about the third or fourth day after new or full moon. The +variation here is about 7 degrees East. The situation of Seal +Island, from Captain Flinders' observations, is in latitude 35 +degrees 4 minutes 55 seconds, and longitude 117 degrees 58 +minutes 7 seconds.</p> +<p>A small island was reported in the Sydney Gazette to have been +seen in latitude 36 degrees 27 minutes, and longitude 127 degrees +2 minutes East; but as the account says, that Kangaroo Island was +seen the same day, which is not less than one hundred and fifty +leagues from the above position, it appears too vague to be +correct. (See Horsburgh Supp. page 32.)</p> +<p>BLACK PYRAMID, off the north-west end of Van Diemen's Land, in +Bass Strait, is situated about 4 minutes too much to the +southward on Captain Flinders' chart.</p> +<p>BELL'S ROCK. The following account of a rock, seen by Mr. +Bell, the Commander of the ship Minerva, on her outward-bound +passage to New South Wales, appeared in a Sydney (New South +Wales) Gazette, of the 16th of December, 1824.</p> +<p>"On the 14th of November the Minerva very narrowly escaped +striking on a rock, in the fairway of the west entrance to Bass +Strait, on the south side of King's Island. Reid's rocks bearing +North six miles, and the Black Pyramid East-South-East: from this +situation the danger was about half a mile off (to the +southward); but as the water broke only at intervals of three or +four minutes, although the swell was very heavy, it is probable +there may be sufficient depth of water to carry a ship over it. +An indifferent observation made the latitude of the ship at the +time 40 degrees 26 minutes."</p> +<p>In M. De Freycinet's chart of Bass Strait, some rocky islets +are placed forty miles east of Sea-Elephant Bay. I did not +succeed in finding them, although the Mermaid sailed close to +their position. (See volume 1.)</p> +<p>The PYRAMID, at the east end of Bass Strait, is placed five +miles too much to the northward: its true situation is in +latitude 39 degrees 52 minutes 40 seconds, and longitude 147 +degrees 11 minutes 30 seconds.</p> +<p>A reef of rocks were seen by Lieutenant John Lamb, R.N., off +Cape Albany Otway. (See Horsburgh volume 2 page 499.)</p> +<p>There appears to be a considerable difference in the positions +assigned to ALBATROSS ISLAND, by the French expedition and +Captain Flinders; the former made the difference between the +meridian of Albatross Island, and that of the rock in +Sea-Elephant Bay, 24 minutes 45 seconds; whilst by the latter it +is 32 minutes 30 seconds. But as Captain Flinders only saw the +north end of KING'S ISLAND, the error seems to originate in his +having laid down its eastern side from other authorities, for his +difference of longitude between its north-west point and the +centre of Albatross Island only differs 2 minutes 30 seconds from +the French, who surveyed that island with great care.</p> +<p>Several sunken rocks have been discovered from time to time +near the north end of GREAT ISLAND, so that ships, bound through +Bass Strait to the eastward, should not pass within Craggy Island +without using great caution. The best passage is on the south +side of Kent's Group, between it and the rocky islet (WRIGHT'S +ROCK) to the south-east.</p> +<p>In a line between the above rocky islet and Craggy Island, and +about two miles from the former, is a reef with two small rocks +upon it. (See Horsburgh Supp. page 32.)</p> +<p>There are some considerable errors in Captain Flinders' chart +of Van Diemen's Land, with respect to the latitudes of the +South-west Cape, the Mewstone, the South cape, and the land +between them. The first is laid down 8 minutes too much to the +North 30 degrees West (true) and the other places in proportion. +The corrected situations are given in the second volume of this +work.</p> +<hr align="center" width="20%"> +<h4>APPENDIX A. SECTION 7.</h4> +<p align="center">DESCRIPTION OF THE SHOALS AND REEFS IN THE +NEIGHBOURHOOD OF THE COASTS OF AUSTRALIA.</p> +<p>REEFS, EAST COAST.</p> +<p>ELIZABETH'S REEF (see Horsburgh's Supp. page 52) in latitude +30 degrees 5 minutes, and longitude 159 degrees, was discovered +by the ships Claudine and Marquis of Hastings, on the 16th of +May, 1820. Within two cables' length of the reef, they found +fourteen fathoms; at a quarter of a mile off the depth was +twenty-five fathoms, but beyond that the bottom was not reached. +It is about three miles in circuit, with deep water in the +centre: the edge is covered, but some straggling rocky lumps show +at intervals above the surface of the water. The east side of the +reef extends about North-North-East and South-South-West for one +mile, but the greatest extent seemed to be West-North-West and +East-South-East.</p> +<p>MIDDLETON'S SHOAL is in latitude 29 degrees 14 minutes, and +longitude 158 degrees 53 minutes. (See Horsburgh volume 2 page +508.)</p> +<p>CATO'S BANK is in latitude 23 degrees 6 minutes, and longitude +155 degrees 23 minutes. (Flinders volume 2 page 298 and Horsburgh +volume 2 page 509.)</p> +<p>WRECK REEF is in latitude 22 degrees 11 minutes 23 seconds, +and longitude 155 degrees 18 minutes 50 seconds. (Flinders volume +2 page 330 and Horsburgh volume 2 page 509.)</p> +<p>CARNS, or MID-DAY REEF, was discovered by Mr. Carns, the +master of the ship Neptune, on the 21st of June, 1818, having +taken a departure the day before from Sandy Cape. It extends east +and west for a considerable distance: the ship passed round the +western extremity at two miles off, and found its bearing from +Sandy Cape to be North 21 degrees East, one hundred and +seventy-six miles, and to be in latitude 21 degrees 58 minutes, +and longitude 154 degrees 20 minutes. Its eastern limit was not +seen: it consists of a string of sandbanks and rocks, from five +to twenty feet high, with passages between them. (Horsburgh Supp. +page 35.)</p> +<p>SIR JAMES SAUMAREZ' SHOAL was seen by Mr. Lihou; it is in +latitude 21 degrees 40 minutes, and longitude 153 degrees 46 +minutes by chronometer, which was found correct on making Sandy +Cape a day or two afterwards. There is reason to suppose that +many other reefs exist to the North-West of this position.</p> +<p>KENN'S REEF, discovered by Mr. Alexander Kenn, Master of the +ship William Shand, on her passage from Sydney to Batavia, +extends in the direction of North West by North 1/2 North for ten +miles, and is composed of sand and rocks, some of which, at the +south end, were six or eight feet out of the water: it is six +miles broad; the centre of the edge (? north) is in latitude 21 +degrees 9 minutes, and longitude 155 degrees 49 minutes (by +chronometer and lunars): it was found to bear South 67 degrees +West, six miles from Bird Islet, of Wreck Reef.</p> +<p>BOOBY and BELLONA SHOALS. In the neighbourhood of these reefs, +Lieutenant John Lamb, R.N., Commander of the ship Baring, was +embarrassed for three days, in which interval he was sounding in +between nineteen and forty-five fathoms, and frequently passed +shoal parts, upon which the sea was breaking. The limits assigned +by this officer to the extent of the rocky ground, are the +parallels of 20 degrees 40 minutes, and 21 degrees 50 minutes, +and the meridians of 158 degrees 15 minutes and 159 degrees 30 +minutes. A sandy islet was also seen by him, surrounded by a +chain of rocks in 21 degrees 24 1/2 minutes South, and 158 +degrees 30 minutes East. The ship Minerva also struck soundings +in eight fathoms, with the appearance of shoaler water to the +South-West; this last danger is in a line between the two shoals +in about longitude 159 degrees 20 minutes. (See Horsburgh Supp. +page 35.)</p> +<p>BAMPTON'S SHOAL is laid down in the shape of a horse-shoe, of +not less than forty-five miles in extent; on the north-east end +are two islets with trees. The AVON ISLES are probably near its +south-west extremity: they were seen by Mr. Sumner, Master of the +ship Avon, September 18, 1823; and are described by him as being +three-quarters of a mile in circumference, twenty feet high, and +the sea between them twenty fathoms deep. At four miles North +East by North from them the vessel sounded in twelve fathoms, and +at the same time saw a reef ten or fifteen miles to the +South-East, with deep water between it and the islets. A boat +landed on the south-westernmost islet, and found it inhabited +only by birds, but clothed with shrubs and wild grapes. By +observation, these islands were found to lie in latitude 19 +degrees 40 minutes, and longitude 158 degrees 6 minutes.</p> +<p>A reef is laid down in M. Krusenstern's Atlas of the Pacific +Ocean (1824) in latitude 17 degrees, and longitude 156 degrees, +and is there called MELLISH REEF.</p> +<p>A REEF was seen by the ship FREDERICK, the north-east +extremity of which is laid down in latitude 20 degrees 44 +minutes, and longitude 150 degrees 32 minutes; it is of +semi-circular shape, and extends as far south as 21 degrees 2 +minutes, and appears to be nearly twenty miles wide.</p> +<p>VINE'S HORSE-SHOE SHOAL; its northernmost end is in latitude +20 degrees 5 minutes, and longitude 151 degrees 50 minutes: it +presents its convex, or outer edge, to the Southward, and extends +as far as fifteen miles to the South and East.</p> +<p>DIANA'S BANK is placed in latitude 15 degrees 38 minutes, and +longitude 150 degrees 28 minutes. (Horsburgh volume 2 page +509.)</p> +<p>BETWEEN the parallels of 16 degrees 50 minutes and 17 degrees +45 minutes, and the meridians of 150 degrees 30 minutes and 152 +degrees 30 minutes, there are several very extensive reefs, +various parts of which have been seen, according to the following +accounts.</p> +<p>Lieutenant Vine saw a DRY BANK in latitude 17 degrees 46 +minutes, and longitude 151 degrees 40 minutes. See the account of +the shoal described by M. Tregrosse.</p> +<p>Mr. Brodie, Commander of the brig Alert, in October, 1817, saw +A REEF extending for a considerable distance in a North-East and +South-West direction. The Alert ran along the reef for +twenty-five miles: about the centre Mr. Brodie saw two sand +islets in latitude 17 degrees 2 minutes, and longitude 151 +degrees 49 minutes.</p> +<p>LIHOU'S SHOAL, probably a part of the above reefs seen by +Lieutenant Vine and from the Alert, lies in latitude 17 degrees +25 minutes, and longitude 151 degrees 45 minutes: it is forty-six +miles in length, and lies North-North-East and +South-South-West.</p> +<p>A very extensive RANGE OF SHOALS and ISLETS was seen by M. +Tregrosse, of the French brig Les Trois Freres, in company with +the brig Jessie, in 1821, according to the subjoined account.</p> +<p>On the 19th June, the two brigs in company fell in with a +range of reefs, terminated to the eastward by two sandy islets, +the easternmost of which is in 151 degrees 47 minutes (149 +degrees 27 minutes East of Paris); the vessels hauled to the wind +immediately, but finding they could not pass to windward, bore +up, and ran along the shoal from eight a.m. to four p.m., at the +distance of a league and a half. Altogether they counted seven +islets, three of which were covered with shrubs, and the whole +connected by a reef, on the edge of which the sea broke heavily: +they were called GOVERNOR FARQUHAR'S GROUP: the westernmost islet +is in 17 degrees 39 minutes, and 151 degrees 27 minutes (149 +degrees 7 minutes East of Paris) and appeared to terminate the +group. As it was near sunset, the vessels hauled to the wind for +the night, and at daylight bore up on a north course: soon +afterwards they saw an islet West-North-West; they, however, +continued to steer North until eight o'clock, and then, having +run nine miles, saw another island North-North-East. On +attempting to steer between the isles, they were found to be +connected, and having sounded in eleven fathoms, the vessels bore +up, and steered between the westernmost islet and two extensive +reefs, through a passage five or six miles wide, that appeared to +be clear.</p> +<p>The westernmost islet is in 17 degrees 42 minutes South, and +150 degrees 43 minutes East (148 degrees 23 minutes East of +Paris) and the westernmost reef, in 17 degrees 44 minutes South, +and 150 degrees 32 minutes East (148 degrees 12 minutes East of +Paris). A space of ten or twelve leagues between Governor +Farquhar's Group and that seen the preceding day was passed in +the night, and probably may contain other reefs. The last group +was named TREGROSSE'S ISLETS.</p> +<p>NORTH COAST.</p> +<p>The ALERT struck on a shoal to the westward of Torres Strait +in 1817; it seemed to be about two hundred fathoms in length, and +about fifty yards broad: it is in latitude 9 degrees 52 minutes, +and longitude 140 degrees 50 minutes.</p> +<p>In the vicinity of Cape Van Diemen there are many submarine +coral banks, that are not yet shoal enough to be called reefs; +that which Captain Flinders saw, and sounded upon in seven +fathoms, lies in 9 degrees 56 minutes latitude, and 129 degrees +28 minutes longitude. The Alert also passed over a shoal patch +with nine fathoms in 10 degrees 1 minute South, and 129 degrees 8 +minutes East.</p> +<p>NORTH-WEST COAST.</p> +<p>SAHUL BANK is but very imperfectly known, and its extent by no +means so large as is laid down upon the chart. In that interval, +however, there are probably many reefs, which have been +occasionally seen. Captain Heywood saw a dry part in latitude 11 +degrees 35 minutes and longitude 124 degrees 10 minutes, and +there are shoal soundings in crossing it on the following parts, +namely:</p> +<p><b>COLUMN 1: SOUNDINGS OVER CORAL REEF IN FATHOMS.<br> +COLUMN 2: LATITUDE.<br> +COLUMN 3: LONGITUDE.</b></p> +<p>12 : 11 degrees 21 minutes : 125 degrees 23 minutes.<br> +16 : 11 degrees 10 minutes : 125 degrees 27 minutes.<br> +12 : 11 degrees 7 minutes : 125 degrees 30 minutes.<br> +15 : 10 degrees 57 minutes : 125 degrees 34 minutes.</p> +<p>All of which are detached and separated by deep water. (See +Horsburgh volume 1 page 103.)</p> +<p>CARTIER ISLAND, seen in 1800 by the ship Cartier, is a dry +sand bank surrounded by a shoal extending for four miles to the +northward. It is in 12 degrees 29 minutes South, and 123 degrees +56 minutes East, by chronometer.</p> +<p>Captain Heywood in 1801 saw the following reefs. The centre of +one in latitude 12 degrees 48 minutes, and longitude 124 degrees +25 minutes; and the other in 13 degrees 29 minutes, and 124 +degrees 5 minutes.</p> +<p>HIBERNIA SHOAL, seen by Mr. Samuel Ashmore, Commander of the +ship Hibernia, consists of two small sandbanks in the centre of a +shoal, four miles in extent, lying in an east and west direction. +It is in latitude 11 degrees 56 minutes, and longitude 123 +degrees 28 minutes, by chronometers.</p> +<p>Mr. Ashmore also saw another shoal in 1811, the particulars of +which are detailed in the following letter.</p> +<p>"The north-east end of the shoal, fell in with on the 11th +June, 1811, by a good noon observation, is in 12 degrees 11 +minutes South, longitude by chronometer 122 degrees 58 minutes 30 +seconds (allowing the south head of Port Jackson to be in 151 +degrees 25 minutes 25 seconds). To the westward of the barrier of +black rocks, that presented themselves to our view, were several +sandbanks, the highest of which, on the east end, appeared to +have some vegetation: the rocks in general were six or eight feet +above the water and the surf broke violently on the North-East +and South-East points in view. The shoal trends in a West by +North direction for six or seven miles," It is distinguished on +the chart by the name of ASHMORE'S SHOAL.</p> +<p>SCOTT'S REEF (see Horsburgh volume 1 page 102) was discovered +by Captain Heywood, R.N., in 1811: the north-west end is in +latitude 13 degrees 52 1/2, and longitude 121 degrees 59 minutes; +thence it extends South 16 degrees East for eighteen or nineteen +miles to the north-east point, in latitude 14 degrees 1 minute, +and longitude 122 degrees 16 minutes; the south extent was not +ascertained. It is ninety-seven miles due East from the situation +assigned to Dampier's Rocks. The Cartier also struck upon a shoal +hereabouts, and Captain Horsburgh seems to think that there is +little doubt of Scott's Reef being the same that Dampier saw, as +well as that on which the Cartier struck.</p> +<p>ROWLEY'S SHOALS consist of three separate reefs, the +westernmost is the Imperieuse, the middle Clerke's, and the +north-easternmost the Mermaid's. The Imperieuse is ten miles in +length from north to south, and its greatest breadth five miles: +it is surrounded by very deep water and near the eastern edge, in +latitude 17 degrees 35 minutes, and longitude 118 degrees 51 +minutes, are some dry rocks. Clerke's Shoal (south end in +latitude 17 degrees 28 minutes, longitude 119 degrees 18 minutes) +extends to the north-west, and probably joins the Minstrel's +Shoal, which is described below, and, if this is the case, trends +North-North-West 1/2 West for seventeen miles. The south end of +Mermaid's Shoal is in 17 degrees 12 minutes South, and 119 +degrees 35 minutes East, and extends to the northward for seven +miles; but its termination in that direction was not seen. The +edges of all these reefs are steep to; and no bottom was obtained +with one hundred and eighty fathoms. Within the reefs, however, +there is a bank of soundings of the depth of from one hundred and +seventy to one hundred and twenty fathoms. (See Horsburgh volume +1 page 101.)</p> +<p>MINSTREL'S SHOAL (see Horsburgh's Supp. page 52) its +north-east end is in 17 degrees 14 minutes South, and 118 degrees +57 minutes East, or 5 degrees 28 minutes East by chronometer, +from the coast of New Holland in latitude 23 degrees 10 minutes +South. The longitude of that part of the coast by my survey, is +113 degrees 42 minutes; this will make the Minstrel's Shoal in +119 degrees 10 minutes, which agrees very well with Clerke's +Reef, the centre reef of Rowley's Shoals, of which it is +certainly the north end; so Captain Horsburgh also supposes.</p> +<p>A ship called the LIVELY was wrecked on a coral reef in about +16 degrees 30 minutes South, and 119 degrees 35 minutes East.</p> +<p>RITCHIE'S REEF, or the Greyhound's Shoal. The situation of +this reef is recorded by Captain Horsburgh (see Supp. page 38) to +be in latitude 19 degrees 58 minutes, and longitude 114 degrees +40 1/4 minutes; but, by a letter published in the Sydney Gazette +by Lieutenant Ritchie, R.N., the commander, it would appear to be +in 20 degrees 17 minutes 40 seconds, longitude by lunars 114 +degrees 46 minutes 6 seconds.</p> +<p>ROCK OFF VAN DIEMEN'S LAND.</p> +<p>The Russian ship RURICK, in 1822, saw a dry rock above water +off the south-east coast of Van Diemen's Land, in latitude 44 +degrees, and longitude 147 degrees 45 minutes.</p> +<p>A rock was also seen by the ship LORD SIDMOUTH in 1819, in +latitude 43 degrees 48 minutes, and longitude 147 degrees 15 +minutes.</p> +<hr align="center" width="20%"> +<h4>APPENDIX A. SECTION 8.</h4> +<p align="center">DIRECTIONS FOR THE PASSAGE WITHIN THE REEFS +THROUGH TORRES STRAIT.</p> +<p>INNER ROUTE.</p> +<p>The passage recommended by Captain Flinders for passing +through Torres Strait us by entering the reefs at Murray's +Island; by which route a two-days' passage will carry a ship past +all danger: but, as the space between Wreck Reef and Murray's +Island is strewed with dangers, many of which have been +discovered since the publication of his charts, and of which the +greater number have only been recently seen, it cannot be called +a safe navigation. The dangers consist of low coral islands, +surrounded by extensive reefs, upon which in long and dark nights +a vessel is in momentary danger of striking; the result of which +must be the certain destruction of the vessel, and the probable +loss of the crew. The Inner Route was first pursued by Mr. Cripps +in the brig Cyclops, bound from Port Jackson to Bengal, in 1812. +It was subsequently followed by Lieutenant C. Jeffreys, R.N., in +the command of the hired armed vessel Kangaroo, on her passage +from Port Jackson to Ceylon, in 1815.* This officer drew a chart, +with a track of his voyage up the coast; which, considering the +shortness of his time, and other circumstances that prevented his +obtaining the necessary data to lay down with accuracy so +intricate and dangerous a passage, does him very great credit; he +filled up the space between Endeavour River and Cape Direction, +which Captain Cook did not see; the only part that had previously +been left a blank upon the chart of New South Wales; his outline +was found to be tolerably correct, and my alterations have only +been caused by better opportunities, and by the greater detail of +my operations. The general feature of the coast has scarcely +required correction; the principal corrections have been in the +number, size, and relative bearings of the coral reefs and +islands that front it.</p> +<blockquote>(*Footnote. Horsburgh's Indian Directory volume 2 +page 514.)</blockquote> +<p>In describing this route, the whole of the bearings are +magnetic; and the courses are freed from the effect of tide or +current, since they are only temporary, and often of trifling +importance.*</p> +<blockquote>(*Footnote. In following these directions, reference +should be made to the description of the coast contained in this +Appendix.)</blockquote> +<p>DIRECTIONS.</p> +<p>Having hauled round Breaksea Spit (see Flinders' chart sheet +3) in the evening, it would perhaps be dangerous to steer on +through the night; after running, therefore, to the +West-North-West for five or six leagues, bring to until daylight: +but, if the day is before you, the course from the extremity of +the spit is West-North-West 1/4 West for about a hundred miles. +You will then be about twenty miles from Cape Capricorn: on your +way to which you should pass about three miles within Lady +Elliot's Island, and also within the southernmost islet of +Bunker's Group, by which you will see how the current has +affected your course, and you can act accordingly: if it has set +you to the northward, you may pass on either side of or through +the islands without danger. After making Cape Capricorn, you may +leave it at a convenient distance, and, directing your course +about North West by North, pass either within or without the +Peaked and Flat Islands off Port Bowen; then, steering for the +Percy Group, pass between the 2nd and 3rd Northumberland +Islands.</p> +<p>After passing the latter, avoid a low dangerous rock, that +bears from it North 8 degrees East five miles and three-quarters, +and from 1st Peak South 85 degrees West. To avoid this in the +night, pass close round Number 3, when, its situation being +known, you can easily avoid it.</p> +<p>The channel is safe on either side of the Percy Isles, but +that to the westward of them, being better known, is therefore +recommended as the safest. Then steer either over the Mermaid's +or Bathurst's tracks, which will carry a ship round the +projections of the coast as far as Cape Grafton, as far as which, +if the weather is fine, there can be no danger of proceeding +through the night; but it must be recollected, that at Cape +Grafton the coral reefs approach the coast, and, consequently, +great care must be used.</p> +<p>On reaching Fitzroy Island, round it at a mile off shore, and, +when its north end bears West, steer North-West 1/2 North for +thirty-five miles; you will then be a league to the South-East of +a group of low isles; if it should be night when you pass them, +come no nearer to them than fourteen fathoms. In steering this +course, great care should be taken, not to go too much to the +eastward to avoid the reef which the Tamar saw. (See above.)</p> +<p>If the moon is up the islets will be readily distinguished, +but otherwise it would be more prudent to wait for daylight. This +course will carry a ship over two of my tracks, and the soundings +will be in seventeen, eighteen, and nineteen fathoms. From the +low isles direct your course for the Hope Islands, which bear +from the former North 18 degrees West thirty-eight miles, but the +course had better be within that line, to avoid some reefs in +latitude 15 degrees 51 minutes: pass, therefore, within five +miles of Cape Tribulation, when a direct course may be steered +either to the eastward or westward of the Hope Isles. The better +route will be within the western Hope, and along its reef at the +distance of three-quarters of a mile, by which you will avoid +reef a. When you are abreast of its north end, steer North by +West westerly for twenty-eight miles; this will carry you to Cape +Bedford which you may round at from one to three or four miles. +You will see in your way, at three miles and a half from the +north end of the Hope Reef, reef b; and at fifteen miles from it +you will be abreast of e; and five miles farther on you will pass +Captain Cook's Turtle Reef, which has a dry sand at its north +end. These three reefs will be to the eastward of your +course.</p> +<p>The current sets to the North-West, so that your course must +be directed accordingly. In coasting along the shore, you will +discern the summits which are marked on the chart. The high +conical hill, on the south side of the entrance of Endeavour +River, is Mount Cook, bearings of which, crossed with the summit +of Cape Bedford, or any of the particularized summits or points +will give the vessel's place, by which the effects of the +current, which is generally very slight, will be perceived: on +one occasion we found a current in the space between the +Endeavour Reef and Turtle Reef of two miles an hour to the +North-West.</p> +<p>Being off Cape Bedford, and steering to the North 1/2 West, +you will see the Three Isles ahead: steer between them and the +low wooded island; and direct your course round Cape Flattery and +Point Lookout, to anchor under the Turtle Group, unless you have +time before dark to reach the islands 4, 5, or 6, of Howick's +Group. Under which anchorage may be found. In rounding Point +Lookout, do not come within two miles and a half of it, to avoid +a reef that is on Captain Cook's chart, but which we did not see; +it lies a mile and a half north from the peaked hill at the +extremity of the point. You may pass without the Turtle Group, or +you will find anchorage under Lizard Island, but this is not +recommended, both because the wind is generally fresher as you +increase your distance from the shore, and because it lengthens +the distance.</p> +<p>From the Turtle Group steer North West by West 1/2 West until +you see the hillock at the south-east end of Number 1 of Howick's +Group: then pass inside and within a mile of 2 and 3, and between +islet 4 and Cole's Islands, and inshore of 6 and the dry sands s, +t, and u. The Mermaid's track will direct the course to Cape +Melville. If the day is late when abreast of 6, of Howick's +Group, anchorage had better be secured under it, as there is none +to be recommended between it and Cape Flinders.</p> +<p>Upon rounding Cape Melville, the Islands of Flinders' Group +will be seen; and as soon as you have passed round the stony reef +that projects off the Cape (the extremity of which bears from it +by compass North West by North, and from Pipon's Island +South-West by West 1/4 West nearly) in doing which steer within +the reef that surrounds Pipon Island, direct the course for the +extremity of the islands, which is Cape Flinders; the course and +distance being West 3/4 South nearly thirteen miles: on this a +low woody island will be left on the starboard hand.</p> +<p>His Majesty's sloop Satellite, in 1822, grounded upon a small +reef, bearing North by East (easterly) from the extremity of the +cape, distant about two miles; but, as a ship may pass within a +stone's throw of the cape, this danger may be easily avoided. The +best anchorage here is under the flat-topped hill, at a third of +a mile from the shore, in ten fathoms, muddy bottom. In hauling +round the cape, avoid a shoal which extends for a short distance +from the shore on its western side.</p> +<p>If the day is not far advanced, and you have time to run +fifteen miles further, the ship may proceed to the reef d; but, +indeed, anchorage may be obtained under any of the reefs or +islets between this part and Cape Grenville, for the bottom is +universally of mud; and by anchoring with the body of a reef, +bearing South-East, the vessel is sufficiently sheltered from the +sea, which is generally smooth.</p> +<p>On leaving Cape Flinders, steer West 3/4 North for about +twenty-three miles, leaving the reefs c and g to seaward, and d, +e, and f to the southward, of the course; then haul up about +North-West 3/4 North, and steer within the reef l and Pelican +Island, and to seaward of the Claremont Islands 1 and 2, which +are low and woody.</p> +<p>When abreast of 2, the south-west end of the reef m will be +seen, which should be passed at from one to two miles, and the +course North by West 1/4 West will carry you to 4 and 5, which +you may pass on either side of, the channel between them being +quite safe. If you take the latter course, steer north, within +the reef o, and then close within 6, to avoid the low rock that +covers with the tide. Having passed this rock, steer for 7, and +pass within one mile of it, to avoid the shoals that extend off +Cape Sidmouth. Hence the course is North-North-West towards Night +Island; and, when abreast of it, steer North 1/2 West until near +the covered shoal v, when the course may be directed within +Sherrard's Islets and reef 10 (on which there is a sandy islet +covered with some bushes) and then steer round Cape +Direction.</p> +<p>Hence the course North-North-West 1/4 West will carry you +within the reefs y, z, a, b, and c, and without the rocky islet +that lies off Restoration Island: continuing this course you +will, at about five miles beyond the cape, see the long reef e; +steer North-West parallel with its edge, which extends until you +are abreast of Fair Cape, where it terminates with a very narrow +point. Then steer North-West 1/2 North, and pass between the two +easternmost Piper's Islands and the reefs h, i, and k; then pass +on either side of l and m, inshore of Haggerston's Island, and +round the outermost of Sir Everard Home's Group.</p> +<p>The anchorages between Cape Flinders and this are so numerous +as not to require particular mention: the north-west end of every +reef will afford shelter; but the anchor should not be dropped +too near, because the tide sweeps round the edge with greater +strength than it does at half a mile off, within which distance +the bottom is generally deeper. If the day is advanced and the +breeze fresh, Night Island should not be passed: because the +anchorages between it and Piper's Islands are rather exposed; and +a vessel getting underweigh from Night Island at daylight will +easily reach Piper's Islands, or Margaret Bay, before dark.</p> +<p>The latter bay is round Cape Grenville; it is fronted by +Sunday Island, which affords good shelter from the wind: it is a +safe place to stop at.</p> +<p>In passing round Sir Everard Home's Islands, steer wide from +them, to avoid the tide drifting you towards the group, for it +sets to the North-West across the course. The course is then +about North-West 1/4 West to the Bird Isles, and thence, to the +reef v, about North West by North; the better and more direct +plan is to pass within v and w (there is, however, a safe channel +between them) and when abreast of the west end of the latter, the +course to Cairncross Island is North by West 1/2 West, and the +distance about eighteen miles.</p> +<p>There not being any very good anchorage between this and Cape +York, it would be perhaps better to anchor under it for the +night, in about fourteen or fifteen fathoms, mud, the island +bearing South-East, but not nearer than half a mile, because, +within that distance, the bottom is rocky.</p> +<p>Leaving Cairncross Island, steer North-North-West 1/4 West +until Escape River is abreast of you, when look out for reef x: +steer within it about North West by North, which will take you +inside the covered reef z. Your course then must be round the +Albany Islands, and hence North West by North for a, which is a +rocky islet that may be seen from abreast the Albany Isles.</p> +<p>The passage through the Possession Isles and Endeavour Strait +is not to be recommended for a large ship, on account of the +shoal water that extends from Wallis' Isles towards Shoal Cape; +but the route round the north end of Wednesday and Hammond's +Islands is preferable. Upon passing reef a, Wednesday Island will +be seen: in steering towards it, avoid standing too close to the +rocky islet that is abreast of the strait between it and Horned +Hill, as some sunken rocks stretch off it for about a quarter of +a mile: steer round the north point of Wednesday Island at half a +mile, and then West by South 1/4 South which will carry you to +the northward of the rock off Hammond's Island. Having passed +this rock, steer South-West by West; and when abreast of the +south-west end of Hammond's Island, haul towards a reef, to the +southward of the course, on which you will see some dry rocks, +which you may pass within half a mile of: you will then avoid +reef d, which is generally, if not always, covered: the fairway +of this channel is seven and eight fathoms deep.</p> +<p>When the summit of Good's Island bears South-West by West, +steer West by South southerly for Booby Island, by which you will +avoid Larpent's bank, and when you have passed it, you are clear +of the strait. Hence you may steer West 3/4 South through the +night, on which course you will very gradually deepen your +water.</p> +<hr align="center" width="20%"> +<h4>APPENDIX A. SECTION 9.</h4> +<p align="center">TABLE: DIP OF THE MAGNETIC NEEDLE, OBSERVED +DURING THE MERMAID'S AND BATHURST'S VOYAGES UPON THE COAST OF +AUSTRALIA.</p> +<p><a name="king2-table2a"></a><img alt="" src="images/king2-table2a.jpg"></p> +<p><a name="king2-table2b"></a><img alt="" src="images/king2-table2b.jpg"></p> +<p><a name="king2-table2c"></a><img alt="" src="images/king2-table2c.jpg"></p> +<p><a name="king2-table2d"></a><img alt="" src="images/king2-table2d.jpg"></p> +<hr align="center" width="20%"> +<h4>APPENDIX A. SECTION 10.</h4> +<p align="center">UPON THE GEOGRAPHICAL POSITIONS OF THE FIXED +POINTS OF THE SURVEY.</p> +<p>The observations for determining the longitudes of the various +parts of the coast were taken with a circle and a sextant by +Troughton: besides these valuable instruments we had three +chronometers of Arnold's make, namely, 413 (box) 2054 (pocket) +and 394 (pocket); of which the two first were supplied by the +Admiralty. At the end of the fourth year, in consequence of 394 +having stopped, a fourth chronometer, made by Parkinson and +Frodsham (Number 287 box) was purchased in the colony, and proved +to be a most excellent watch.</p> +<p>The situations of the following places, which were either +fixed by us or adapted from other authorities, served as the +basis of the chronometrical determination of the longitudes of +the intermediate parts.</p> +<p>The flagstaff of FORT MACQUARIE on the north-east head of +Sydney Cove in PORT JACKSON (the Cattle Point of Flinders, and +otherwise Bennelong Point) is in latitude 33 degrees 51 minutes +28 seconds South and longitude 151 degrees 15 minutes 26 East, +being, according to the ensuing table, the mean of all the +observations that have been taken.</p> + +</a><img alt="" src="images/king2-table3.jpg"> + +<p>PERCY ISLAND (Number 2). The longitude of the south-west end +of this island is by Captain Flinders' observation in 150 degrees +13 minutes East. ENDEAVOUR RIVER. The observatory, which was +placed within a few yards of the shore on the south side of the +entrance (the summit of the highest bush near the extremity of +the opposite sandy beach, bearing by compass West 3 degrees 40 +minutes South) was found to be situated in latitude 15 degrees 27 +minutes 4 seconds, and longitude 145 degrees 10 minutes 49 +seconds. (See note, Appendix A.)</p> +<p>GOULBURN ISLANDS. The observations were taken upon Bottle +Rock, the largest of two rocky islets at the north end of +South-west Bay; but the results were so doubtful and +unsatisfactory, that the longitude determined by the chronometers +was preferred. The following are the observations that were taken +to fix its situation, namely:</p> +<p>Latitude by fourteen meridional altitudes of the sun l. l. on +the sea-horizon, taken in various parts of the bay, and reduced +by survey to Bottle Rock 11 37 24.</p> +<p>The difference of longitude between Bottle Rock and Cassini +Island by chronometers, taken in:</p> +<p>1819: 7 40 47.<br> +1820: 7 40 00.<br> +1821: 7 38 28.</p> +<p>Mean difference between Cassini Island and Bottle Rock: 7 39 +45.</p> +<p>Longitude of Cassini Island from Careening Bay, by survey: 125 +38 46.</p> +<p>Longitude of Bottle Rock, by chronometer, from Cassini Island: +133 18 31.</p> +<p>The mean of the results of the lunar distances that were taken +during the years 1818 and 1819, gave for the longitude of the +rock 133 degrees 31 minutes 58 seconds East. On our last voyage +the mean of the Bathurst's and Dick's watches made it 133 degrees +19 minutes 40 seconds, which was finally adapted, since it +accorded better with the chronometrical difference between its +meridian and that of Cassini Island. I have never been able to +account for this extraordinary disagreement between the results +of the lunar distances and the chronometers, since the former +were taken with the sun on both sides of the moon, and seemed to +be very good.</p> +<p>CAREENING BAY. This place was fixed by a series of +observations, in latitude 15 degrees 6 minutes 18 seconds South, +and 125 degrees 0 minutes 46 seconds East. (See Appendix A. in a +note.)</p> +<p>KING GEORGE THE THIRD'S SOUND. The longitude of this place was +adapted from the observations and survey of Captain Flinders, as +follows; namely:</p> +<p>The tent on the east shore of the entrance of Oyster Harbour. +Latitude 35 degrees 0 minutes 17 seconds, and longitude 117 +degrees 56 minutes 22 seconds.</p> +<p>The sandy beach under the low part of the land of Bald Head +(the first sandy bay round the head) is in latitude 35 degrees 6 +minutes, and longitude 117 degrees 58 minutes 6 seconds.</p> +<p>COEPANG, in the Island of Timor. The situation of the +flag-staff of FORT CONCORDIA, where our chronometers were rated, +is in latitude 10 degrees 9 minutes 6 seconds, and longitude 123 +degrees 35 minutes 46 seconds, according to the observations of +Captain Flinders.</p> +<hr align="center" width="20%"> +<p><a name="appendixB"></a></p> +<h3>APPENDIX B.</h3> +<p align="center">CONTAINING A LIST AND DESCRIPTION OF THE +SUBJECTS OF NATURAL HISTORY COLLECTED DURING CAPTAIN KING'S +SURVEY OF THE INTERTROPICAL AND WESTERN COASTS OF AUSTRALIA.</p> +<p>Previously to the establishment of the British Colony at Port +Jackson, in the year 1787, the shores of this extensive continent +had been visited by very few navigators who have recorded any +account of the productions of its Animal Kingdom. The first +authentic report that we have, is that of Vlaming, who is +celebrated as the first discoverer of that rara avis, the black +swan: next to him followed Dampier, who has handed down to us in +his intelligent, although quaint, style, the account of several +of the productions of the North-western and Western Coasts; but +the harvest was reserved for Banks and Solander, the companions +of Cook, whose names are so well and widely known in the fields +of science. These distinguished naturalists were the first +collectors upon the Coast of New South Wales; and although their +labours were not confined to any particular branch of Natural +History, yet Botany appeared to be their chief object, of which +the Banksian Herbarium yields ample proof.</p> +<p>Among the collectors of Natural History, in the neighbourhood +of the colony, since the year 1787, may be recorded the names of +White, Paterson, Collins, Brown, Caley, Lewin, Humphreys, and +Jamison; and in this interval the coasts have been visited by two +English and two French expeditions of discovery; namely, those +commanded by Admiral D'Entrecasteaux, Captains Vancouver and +Flinders, and Commodore Baudin. The first merely touched upon the +south coast at the Recherche's Archipelago, and on the south +shores of Van Diemen's Land; and the second only at King George +the Third's Sound, near the South-west Cape; but these +opportunities were sufficient to celebrate the names of +Labillardiere and Menzies as Australian Botanists, +notwithstanding they have been since eclipsed by the more +extensive discoveries of Mr. Brown, whose collections of Natural +History upon the voyage of Captain Flinders, and his pre-eminent +qualifications, have justly raised him to the pinnacle of +botanical science upon which he is so firmly and deservedly +elevated.</p> +<p>Peron and Lesueur, in Baudin's voyage, extended their +inquiries chiefly among the branches of zoological research; but +in that expedition each department of Natural History had its +separate collector, and the names of Leschenault de la Tour, +Riedle, Depuch, and Bailly, will not be forgotten. Unfortunately, +the Natural History of this voyage has never yet been given to +the world, the death of M. Peron having put a stop to its +publication; a few of the subjects, however, have been taken up +by MM. Lacepede and Cuvier, and other French naturalists, in the +form of monographs, in their various scientific journals; but the +greater part is yet untouched, probably from the want of the +valuable information which died with its collector. M. Peron, in +his historical account of that expedition, notices a few subjects +of zoology that were collected by him, but in so vague a manner, +that it is with very great doubt that the specimens which we +procured, and suspect to be his discoveries, can be compared with +his descriptions. Of the Natural History collections of Captain +Flinders and Mr. Brown, no account has been published, excepting +the valuable botanical works of the latter gentleman.</p> +<p>With respect to the collection which has been formed upon this +expedition, it is to be regretted that the gleanings of the +Animal Kingdom, particularly of quadrupeds and birds, should have +been so trifling in number; and that the students of Natural +History should have suffered disappointment in what might, at +first view, be fairly considered to have arisen from neglect and +careless attention to the subject; but as the principal, and +almost the only, object of the voyage was the survey of the +coast, for which purpose a small vessel was justly considered the +most advantageous, accommodation for a zoological collection was +out of the question. The very few specimens that are now offered +to the world were procured as leisure and opportunity offered; +but many interesting and extremely curious subjects were in fact +obliged to be left behind from want of room, and from our not +possessing apparatus for collecting and preserving them.</p> +<p>A botanical collector for the Royal Garden, Mr. Allan +Cunningham, was attached to the expedition; and this gentleman +did not fail to make a very extensive and valuable collection in +his department, the whole of which is preserved at Kew.</p> +<p>In making out the Appendix, every species brought home +(excepting three or four fishes) has been mentioned, for the sake +of furnishing materials for the students of Geographical Zoology. +The distribution of animals is a branch of study that has been +very much neglected, which is to be lamented, as it appears +likely to offer a very great assistance to the systematic +Physiologist; and for this reason the species found at the Isle +of France have been added to the list.</p> +<p>For the catalogue and descriptions of the quadrupeds, +reptiles, and shells, I am under obligation to Mr. J.E. Gray, of +the British Museum. Mr. Vigors has kindly assisted me with the +use of his collection, and his valuable advice with respect to +the few specimens of birds that were preserved; and Mr. W.S. +MacLeay has furnished me with a very valuable description of my +entomological collection. I am also indebted to Mr. Cunningham +for his remarks upon the botany of the country; to Mr. Brown, for +his description of a new tree from King George the Third's Sound; +and lastly to Dr. Fitton, for his kindness in drawing up for me a +very interesting geological notice from the specimens that have +been presented to the Geological Society of London, of which he +is one of the most active and scientific members.</p> +<hr align="center" width="20%"> +<h3>VERTEBRATA.</h3> +<h4>MAMMALIA.</h4> +<p align="center">BY JOHN EDWARD GRAY, ESQUIRE, M.G.S., ETC.</p> +<p>1. Pteropus edwardsii, Desm. Mamm. 109.<br> +Madagascar Bat, Edwards' Birds, t. 108.<br> +Vespertilio vampyrus, Lin. Syst. Nat. 1 45.<br> +Flying Fox, Colonists of Port Jackson.</p> +<p>This specimen, caught at Point Cunningham on the North-west +Coast, appears to agree with Edwards' figure, and with the +specimen preserved in the British Museum. There is also one in +the collection of the Linnean Society from Port Jackson. Large +flights of these animals were observed at Port Keats and in +Cambridge Gulf, on the North-west Coast. This bat seems also to +be very abundant on the Friendly Islands, for Forster describes +having seen five hundred hanging upon one casuarina tree. +Forster, page 187.</p> +<p>2. Canis australiae.<br> +Canis familiaris australasiae, Desmarest, Mamm. 191.<br> +Australasian Dog, or Dingo, Shaw's Zool. 1 278, t. 76.</p> +<p>This animal is common in the neighbourhood of Port Jackson, +and dogs, to all appearance of the same species, are found on all +parts of the coast. Captain King presented a living specimen to +Sir Everard Home, Bart., who sent it to Exeter Change. In +considering this species as distinct from the common dog, I am +supported by the opinion of Mr. William MacLeay*. (See Linnean +Transactions 13.) (*Footnote. No such opinon has been expressed +by Mr. W. S. Macleay in the place alluded to.--P.P.K. [added in +"errata"])</p> +<p>Captain King informs me that these dogs never bark, in which +particular they agree with the Linnean account of the American +dog; that, in their appearance and cunning disposition, they +resemble the fox; and although occasionally domesticated in New +South Wales, they never lose the sly habits peculiar to their +breed, nor can be prevented from killing poultry or biting +sheep.</p> +<p>This dog, however, seems to be quite a distinct species from +that found in the South Sea Islands, which Forster describes as +being "of a singular race: they mostly resemble the common cur, +but have prodigious large heads, remarkably little eyes, prick +ears, long hair, and a short bushy tail. They are chiefly fed +with fruit at the Society Isles; but in the Low Isles and New +Zealand, where they are the only domestic animals, they live upon +fish. They are exceedingly stupid, and seldom or NEVER BARK, only +howl now and then." Forster's Observations, page 189.</p> +<p>3. Otaria cinerea, Peron et Lesueur. Voyage aux Terres +Austral. ij. 75.</p> +<p>The head of a species, agreeing with the short description of +Peron, was brought home by the expedition, but that it is the one +intended by these authors, there is great room to doubt. I am +informed that specimens of Peron's animal are in the Paris +Museum, but Desmarest and Frederic Cuvier, who have both lately +written upon seals, have only copied the very short specific +character given by Peron. The head of our specimen is gray, +covered with rather short, rigid, hairs, and without any woolly +fur. The ears are short, conical.</p> +<p>It is very distinct from the Otaria Falklandica of Desmarest +(the Phoca falklandica* of Shaw) by the want of the woolly +substance under the hair (called fur by the seal-fishers) and by +the length of the ear, which in the latter species, described by +Shaw, is long and awl-shaped.</p> +<blockquote>(*Footnote. The specimen in the Museum, which I take +for this species, was brought by Captain Peake from New South +Shetland: it differs from Pennant's, and consequently from all +succeeding descriptions that are taken from him, in having five +instead of four claws and toes to the hind foot.)</blockquote> +<p>Captain King in his manuscript observes, that this seal is +found at Rottnest Island on the West Coast, and at King George +the Third's Sound. It appeared also to be the same species that +frequents Shark's Bay; and, if it is M. Peron's Otaria cinerea, +it is also found as far to the eastward as Kangaroo Island.</p> +<p>The head is deposited in the Linnean Society's collection.</p> +<p>4. Petaurista sciurea, Desm. N. Dict. H.N. 25 403.<br> +Didelphis sciurea, Shaw's Zool. 1 t. 113.<br> +Sugar Squirrel, Colonists of Port Jackson.</p> +<p>A well preserved natural skeleton of this animal was brought +home and deposited in the British Museum.</p> +<p>5. Acrobata pygmaea, Desm. Mamm. 270.<br> +Didelphis pygmaea, Shaw's Gen. Zool. 1 t. 114.<br> +Phalangista pygmaea, Geoffr. manuscripts.<br> +Petaurus pygmaeus, Desm. N. Dict. H.N. 25 405.<br> +Opossum Mouse, Colonists at Port Jackson.</p> +<p>This little animal, the smallest and most beautiful of the +opossum tribe, is exceedingly numerous in the vicinity of Port +Jackson. It was first described by Dr. Shaw in his Zoology of New +Holland. There are several specimens in the Linnean Society's +collection. The above is placed in the British Museum.</p> +<p>6. Delphinorhynchus pernettensis ?<br> +Delphinus pernettensis, Blainville.<br> +Delphinus delphis, var. Bonnaterre, Ency. Cetol. 21.<br> +Dauphin, Pernetty, Voyage aux Isles Malouines, 99. t. 2. f. +1.</p> +<p>A head, apparently belonging to this species, was brought home +and deposited in the collection of the British Museum. This +animal is very common upon the northern coasts of New +Holland.</p> +<p>Captain King, in his manuscript, remarks, that the coasts of +New South Wales, and the north-western side of New Holland, +abound in cetaceous animals. Upon the North-east Coast, within +the reefs, the sea is crowded with Balaena physalis, Linn., or +fin-backed whales, as they are called by the whalers, who pay +little attention to them, on account of the danger of approaching +them. His boats were sometimes placed in critical situations from +these animals suddenly rising to the surface of the water close +to them, and lashing the sea with their tremendous fins, and +their occasionally leaping out of the water, and falling down +with a crushing weight. Their colour is generally of a cinereous +hue, but a few were noticed that were variegated black and white. +The whales of the North-west Coast appeared to be of the same +species, but of a darker colour. At one of the anchorages, near +Cape Leveque (volume 2 page 91) the brig was for a whole night +surrounded by these enormous fish, and the crew in momentary +dread of their falling on board, the consequence of which would +have been very disastrous. The noise of their fall in the water, +on a calm night, was as loud as the report of a cannon.</p> +<hr align="center" width="20%"> +<h3>AVES.</h3> +<p align="center">THIS COLLECTION HAS BEEN PRESENTED TO THE +LINNEAN SOCIETY, IN WHOSE CABINETS THEY ARE NUMBERED ACCORDING TO +THE ORDER IN WHICH THEY ARE HERE INSERTED.</p> +<p>1. Halcyon sacra. Swainson.<br> +Alcedo sacra, Ind. Orn. 1 250.<br> +Sacred Kingfisher, Latham, 4 25.</p> +<p>This bird was taken at sea, in the neighbourhood of Cambridge +Gulf, on the North-west Coast, having probably been blown off by +a strong land wind.</p> +<p>2. Barita tibicen. Cuvier.<br> +Coracias tibicen, Ind. Orn. sup. 27.<br> +Piping roller, Latham, 3 86.</p> +<p>3. Barita varia. Cuvier.<br> +Coracias varia, Ind. Orn. 1 173.<br> +Pied roller, Latham, 3 86.</p> +<p>This appears to be a young specimen.</p> +<p>4. Centropus phasianus. Illiger.<br> +Cuculus phasianus, Ind. Orn. Sup. 30.<br> +Polophilus phasianus, Leach, Zool. Misc. plate 46.<br> +Pheasant Cuckoo, Latham, 3 240.</p> +<p>This bird is found upon all parts of the coast of New South +Wales north of Port Jackson, as well as upon the eastern part of +the North-west Coast. Its habitat in Australia is known to extend +as wide as twenty-four degrees of latitude, and twenty-six +degrees of longitude. This specimen was taken at Endeavour River, +on the East Coast. There is also another specimen of this bird in +the Linnean Society's collection, that was taken in the +neighbourhood of Port Jackson.</p> +<p>5. Meliphaga corniculata. Lewin.<br> +Merops corniculata, Ind. Orn. 1 276.<br> +Knob-fronted Honey-eater, Latham, 4 161.</p> +<p>This bird is found upon the whole extent of the Eastern +Coast.</p> +<p>The next bird in the collection has been arranged by Dr. +Latham in the Linnean genus Gracula, but appears to me to agree +in no respect with that genus, as originally characterized by +Linnaeus, much less with it as it has been modified by modern +ornithologists. Whether we consider, according to M. Cuvier,* +that the type of Gracula is the Paradisea tristis, Linn., or, +according to M. Temminck, that it is the Gracula religiosa, +Linn.,** in which latter opinion I feel rather disposed to +acquiesce, my bird agrees with the group in none of its essential +characters. In fact, the Linnean genus Oriolus is that to which +it bears the closest resemblance in its general appearance; +particularly by a similar disposition of its colours, and in the +structure of its bill, wings, and legs. I would at once refer it +to that genus, but that I have some reason to think that it +belongs to the meliphagous birds, which are so abundant in New +Holland, and which have been observed to assume the appearance of +almost every group in the Insessores. Indeed, some birds of that +country, which have been decided to be meliphagous, such as the +Meliphaga cyanops, Lewin,*** [Graculine Honey-eater, Lath. Syn. 4 +166. sp. Ed. 2da.] and others allied to it, and which differ +little from the bird before us, have so many external relations +with the Orioles, that they probably would be found to arrange +themselves in the same family with them, were it not for the +totally different structure of their tongue, and the consequent +difference in their habits of life. Of the tongue, or mode of +feeding of the bird at present before us, I can myself say +nothing decisively, not having had leisure or opportunity, as I +have already observed, of attending to the more interesting +details of Natural History during the expedition. But general +opinion places this bird among the groups that feed by suction; +and as I have a second species hitherto undescribed, which is +closely allied to it, I prefer forming both provisionally into a +new genus, to referring them to one, from which, although they +agree with it in external appearance, they may be totally remote, +in consequence of their internal anatomy and habits of life. The +error at least will not be so great, and may be easily retrieved. +If the tongue of my birds be found to accord with that of the +Orioles, and not of the Honey-suckers, my group of course must +fall.</p> +<blockquote>(*Footnote. Regne Anim. 1 360.)</blockquote> +<blockquote>(**Footnote. Analyse d'un Syst. Gen. d'Orn. page +52.)</blockquote> +<blockquote>(***Footnote. Birds of New Holland plate +4.)</blockquote> +<h4>Genus MIMETES.*</h4> +<blockquote>(*Footnote. Mimetes, from Greek, imitator; [assuming +the appearance of a different group.])</blockquote> +<p>Rostrum forte, subarcuatum, subcultratum, mandibulis utrisque +apice emarginatis; naribus basalibus, lateralibus, subovalibus, +membrano partim tectis.</p> +<p>Lingua ad sugendum idonea ?</p> +<p>Alae mediocres, rotundatae; remige 1ma brevissima; 2da et 6ta +aequalibus; 3tia et 4ta fere aequalibus; longissimis; 5ta his +paulo breviori: remigum 3tiae ad 6tam inclusam pogoniis externis +in medio gradatim productis.</p> +<p>Pedes subbreves; acrotarsiis scutellatis, scutis quinque; +paratarsiis integris.</p> +<p>Cauda mediocris, fere aequalis.</p> +<p>6. VIRIDIS. M. olivaceo-viridis, subtus albidus nigro guttatim +striatus; alis caudaque nigro-fuscis, illis albido-marginatis, +hac apice albo.</p> +<p>Gracula viridis. Lath. Ind. Orn. supp. page 28.</p> +<p>Caput dorsumque olivaceo-viridia, plumis in medio +longitudinaliter fusco-lineatis. Tectrices superiores +nigro-fuscae, ad apicem albido-marginatae; inferiores albido +nigroque variegatae. Remiges supra fuscae, ad marginem externum +apicemque leviter albido-notatae; subtus pallide fuscae. +Rectrices nigro-fuscae, subtus pallidiores, omnibus, duabus +mediis exceptis, apice albo-maculatis. Rostrum flavum. Pedes +nigri. Longitudo* corporis, 10 1/4; alae a carpo ad remigem +3tiam, 5 7/10; caudae, 4 4/5; tarsi, 17/20; rostri ad frontem, 1 +2/10, ad rictum, 1 3/10.</p> +<blockquote>(*Footnote. My measurement is in inches, and their +component parts.)</blockquote> +7. FLAVO-CINCTUS (n.s.) M. flavo-viridis, subtus pallidior, +capite dorsoque fusco-lineatis, alis caudaque nigris viridi +flavoque variegatis. +<p>Capitis, gulae, dorsique plumae flavo-virides, in medio +fusco-lineatae, hujus lineis latioribus. Tectrices superiores +nigrae, apice flavo-marginatae, pteromatum margine flavo, alis +clausis, fasciam conspicuam formante; inferiores flavee, ad basin +nigro-notatae. Remiges supra nigrae, subtus fuscae; primariis +anguste, secondariis late, apice flavo-marginatis; pogoniis +externis anguste, internis late, flavo-marginatis. Rectrices +supra nigrae flavo-viridi marginatae; subtus pallidiores, +omnibus, duabus mediis exceptis, macula flava lata apicali +notatis. Rostrum flavum, paulo altius, et magis carinatum, quam +rostrum M. viridis. Pedes nigri.</p> +<p>The dimensions of this bird are nearly the same as those of M. +viridis: the bill only slightly differing in being somewhat +higher, and more carinated. The above descriptions will point out +the specific differences between the two birds, which are +strongly apparent, not merely by the M. flavo-cinctus being +marked with yellow where the other bird is white, but by the +general distribution of the colours. In this respect, M. +flavo-cinctus resembles more closely the true Orioles, +particularly in the yellow fascia which is formed on the wing, +when closed by the junction of the apical spots on the quill +coverts.</p> +<p>8. Rallus philippensis. Lin. Syst. 1 263.7. Ind. Orn. 756. +Bris. 5 163. t. 14. f. 1. Plate Enl. 774.</p> +<p>This bird was found upon Booby Island, near Cape York (the +north extremity of New South Wales) and agrees with a specimen +already in the Linnean Society's collection, that was taken in +the neighbourhood of Port Jackson. My bird, being of smaller size +than most of those with which I have compared it, is probably a +young specimen. The rufous band on the breast is narrower than is +usual in the species, originating probably from the same +circumstance: otherwise it agrees precisely.</p> +<p>Rallus philippensis was originally found in the Philippine +Islands. It appears to have a very extensive range, as it +inhabits lands both in the North and South Pacific, as well as in +the Indian Ocean.</p> +<p>9. Haematopus picatus (n.s.)</p> +<p>H. ater; corpore subtus, fascia alarum, uropygio, caudaeque +basi, albis; remigibus primoribus totis nigris.</p> +<p>Rostrum pedesque rubri; collum totum nigrum; tectrices +inferiores primores fuscae, secondariae albae, ad carpum et ad +marginem exteriorem nigro-variegatae; fascia alarum angusta; +remiges primores supra nigrae, subtus fuscae; uropygium album +parce nigro variegatum.</p> +<p>Longitudo corporis ab apice rostri ad apicem caadae, 22; alae +a carpo ad remigem primam, 11; rosri, 3 3/10; tarsi, 2 3/10; +caudae, 5.</p> +<p>Besides the common Oyster-Catcher of Europe, two species have +lately been added to the genus, namely, H. palliatus, Temm., a +native of Brazil, and H. niger, Cuv., from New Holland. The bird +above described approaches more closely to the European species +(H. ostralegus) than to the other two; but may be distinguished +from it by the following characters, namely:</p> +<p>In its dimensions it exceeds the length of the European bird +by six inches, and the other parts in proportion; it wants the +white collar round the neck, which is a very distinctive +character of H. ostralegus; the fascia on the wing is confined to +the extremity of the secondary quill feathers alone, whilst in +the other bird it extends to some of the wing coverts: the +primary quill feathers also are entirely black; whereas the other +has them partially variegated with white: the under wing coverts +also differ, the primary ones being fuscous, and the outer +secondary partially marked with black; whilst the whole of the +under wing coverts in H. ostralegus are white. The uropygium +also, which in the European bird is entirely white, is in our +specimen partially variegated with black. The marginal webs of +the toes are much more dilated. The whitish lunular mark under +the eye of H. ostralegus, is entirely wanting in our species, of +which the margin of the eye seems to be of a reddish tinge, of +the same colour as the bill. This bird is common upon the shores +of the continent generally; it is called by the colonists the Red +Bill.</p> +<p>10. Aptenodytes minor. Gmel. Syst. 1 558.<br> +The Little Penguin, Latham.</p> +<p>This bird is common in all parts of the Southern Ocean. The +above specimen was found at King George the Third's Sound near +the south-west extremity of New Holland. There are two specimens +in the collection marked 9 a, and 9 b.</p> +<p>11. Tachypetes aquila. Vieillot.<br> +Pelecanus Aquila, Gmel. Lin. 1 572.<br> +Frigate Bird.</p> +<p>This specimen was obtained at Ascension, and is common in all +parts of the Atlantic within or near the Tropic.</p> +<p>12. Sterna fuliginosa. Gmel. Lin. 1 605. Ind. Orn. 2 804.<br> +Egg Bird, Forst. Voyage 1 115. Cook, Voyage 1 66, 275.<br> +Noddy, Dampier, 3 pt. 1 99., table page 85. figure 5. +Hawkesworth's Coll. of Voyages, 3 652.<br> +Sooty Tern, Gen. Syn. 6 352. Arc. Zool. 2 Number 447.</p> +<p>There are two specimens of this bird in the collection, marked +12 a, and 12 b.</p> +<p>13. Sterna pelecanoides (n.s.)</p> +<p>S. alba; capitis vertice nigro albo-variegato; dorso, alis, +caudaque canis; remigibus fusco-atris, rhachibus albis.</p> +<p>Colli latera parce cano-maculata; tectrices secundariae +primoribus obscuriores; remiges fusco-atrae, pogoniis internis +fere ad apicem albo-marginatis; rectrices externae fuscae basi +apiceque albis; rostrum subflavum; pedes nigri.</p> +<p>Longitudo corporis, 19 1/4; alae a carpo ad remigem primam, 13 +1/2; caudae, 6 3/4; rostri, ad frontem, 2 1/3, ad rictum, 3 1/6; +tarsi, 1 1/6.</p> +<p>The hallux, or hind toe, of this bird appears to be more +closely united to the fore toes, and to be situated more in front +than is usual among the Terns: it is also to be observed, that +the side of the nail of the middle toe is considerably dilated, +although not serrated, similar to what is observed among the +Pelecanidae. These characters offer a corroboration of the +affinity of the Sternae to the family of the Pelecanidae, and +particularly to the genus Phaeton, which approaches the Terns +more closely than any other group of that family, in the smaller +size of the membrane that unites the toes (see Linnean +Transactions 14 505). It may also be stated on the other hand, +that the same membrane of the Sterna pelecanoides deviates from +its own genus, and approaches the Pelecanidae, in its being more +dilated than usual. The wings are longer than the tail for a +considerable extent, by which our bird also evinces another +character, in common with the long-winged Tachypetes, or Frigate +bird.</p> +<p>14. Larus georgii (n.s.)</p> +<p>L. albus, dorso alisque nigris; rectricibus albis, fascia +media atra.</p> +<p>Rostrum flavum, apice rubro; mandibulae inferioris gonide +maxime angulata; remiges primores atrae, secundariae supra nigrae +apice albo, infra albae; tectrices inferiores albae; pedes +flavi.</p> +<p>Longitudo corporis, 28; alae, a carpo ad remigem primam 18 +3/4; mandibulae, superioris ad frontem, 2 1/3, ad rictum, 3 1/6; +tarsi, 2 11/12; caudae, 8 1/2.</p> +<p>This bird was found at King George the Third's Sound, on the +South-west Coast, in the vicinity of Seal Island.</p> +<hr align="center" width="20%"> +<h3>REPTILIA.</h3> +<p align="center">BY JOHN EDWARD GRAY, ESQUIRE, M.G.S.</p> +<h4>Genus CHLAMYDOSAURUS. Gray.</h4> +<p>Capite depresso; membrana tympani aperta.<br> +Gula pennulis plicatis ornata.<br> +Pedibus quatuor.<br> +Digitis quinque, elongatis, simplicibus.<br> +Cauda elongata, subcylindrica.</p> +<p>Animal scaly; the head depressed; the nostrils placed on the +side, midway between the eyes and the end of the head; the drum +of the ear naked; the front teeth conical, awl-shaped (eight in +the upper, and four in the lower jaw); the hinder ones largest; +the side or cheek teeth compressed, short, forming a single +ridge, gradually longer behind; tongue short, fleshy, with an +oval smooth disk at each side of the lower part of its front +part; neck rather long, furnished on each side with a large +plaited frill, supported above by a crescent-shaped cartilage +arising from the upper hinder part of the ear, and, in the +middle, by an elongation of the side fork of the bone of the +tongue; body compressed; legs rather long, especially the hinder +ones; destitute of femoral pores; feet four, with five toes, the +first having two, the second three, the third four, the fourth +five, and the little finger and toe three joints; claws +compressed, hooked; tail long, nearly round, scaly.</p> +<p>This genus appears to be nearly allied to the Agamae, but +differs from them in the peculiar frill that is appended to the +neck.</p> +<p>1. Chlamydosaurus kingii (n.s.)</p> +<p>C. corpore luteo, nigro, variegato; squamis carinatis; pennula +antice serrata; cauda corpore duplo longiore.<br> +Chlamydosaurus kingii, Gray manuscripts.<br> +Icon. Table A. Natural size.</p> +<p>Inhabits Port Nelson, north-west coast of Australia.</p> +<p>The colour yellowish-brown variegated with black: the head +depressed, with the sides erect, leaving a blunt ridge on the +upper part, in which the eyes are placed: the ridge over the eyes +covered with larger scales than those over the head; eyes rather +small, with a fleshy ridge above them; eye-lids covered with +minute, and surrounded by a delicate serrated ridge of small +upright scales: the lips surrounded by a row of oblong, +four-sided scales, arranged lengthways, the front scale of the +upper lip being the largest: the chin covered with narrow +mid-ribbed scales, with a five-sided one in the centre, and +several of larger size just over the front of the fork of the +lower jaw: nostrils, surrounded by rather a large orbicular +scale, situated nearly mid-way between the eye and the end of the +upper jaw, the tubes pointing forwards: the side of the face has +a very obscure ridge extending from the angle of the mouth to the +under part of the ear: neck covered with small scales: frill +arising from the hinder part of the head, just over the front of +the ears, and attached to the sides of the neck and extending +down to the front part of the chest, supported above by a lunate +cartilage arising from the hinder dorsal part of the ear, and in +the centre by a bone, which extends about half its length: this +bone appears to be an elongation of the side fork of the bone of +the tongue, but it could not be determined with certainty without +injuring the specimen; each frill has four plaits, which converge +on the under part of the chin, and fold it up on the side, and a +fifth where the two are united in the centre of the lower part of +the neck; the front part of its upper edge is elegantly serrated, +but the hinder or lower part is quite whole; the outer surface is +covered with keeled scales, which are largest towards its centre; +the inner surface is quite smooth. The scales of the back are +oval, smoothish; those of the lower part of the body and upper +part of the legs acutely mid-ribbed, and of the sides and joints +of the limbs minute. The tail is twice as long as the body, +roundish, covered with acutely mid-ribbed scales, which towards +the end form six rows, so as to render it obscurely six-sided; +the end is blunt: the toes long, very unequal, varying in joints, +as stated in the generic character (which includes also the claw +joint) compressed, scaly; the claws hooked, horn-coloured.</p> +<p>Length of the tail: 12 inches.<br> +Length of the body: 5 inches.<br> +Length of the head: 5 1/2 inches.<br> +Breadth of the head over the eyes: 1 inch.<br> +Length of the thigh: 1 9/10 inches.<br> +Length of the foot and sole: 2 2/10 inches.<br> +Length of the outer edge of the frill: 10 inches.</p> +<p>This interesting lizard was found by Mr. Allan Cunningham, who +accompanied the expedition as His Majesty's Botanical Collector +for Kew Gardens, on the branch of a tree in Careening Bay, at the +bottom of Port Nelson. (See volume 1.) It was sent by him to Sir +Everard Home, by whom it was deposited in the Museum of the +College of Surgeons,* which precluded my examination of its +internal structure.</p> +<blockquote>(*Footnote. Upon application to the Board of Curators +of the College, I was permitted to have a drawing made of this +curious and unique specimen for the Appendix of my work. The +plate was engraved by Mr. Curtis, from an exceedingly correct +drawing made by my friend, Henry C. Field, Esquire. +P.P.K.)</blockquote> +<p>Respecting this remarkable Lizard, Mr. Cunningham's journal +contains the following remarks. "I secured a lizard of +extraordinary appearance, which had perched itself upon the stem +of a small decayed tree. It had a curious crenated membrane like +a ruff or tippet round its neck, covering its shoulders, and when +expanded, which it was enabled to do by means of transverse +slender cartilages, spreads five inches in the form of an open +umbrella. I regret that my eagerness to secure so interesting an +animal did not admit of sufficient time to allow the lizard to +show by its alarm or irritability how far it depended upon, or +what use it made of, this extraordinary membrane when its life +was threatened. Its head was rather large, and eyes, whilst +living, rather prominent; its tongue, although bifid, was short +and thick, and appeared to be tubular." Cunningham +manuscripts.</p> +<p>Captain King informs me, that the colour of the tongue and +inside of the mouth was yellow.</p> +<p>2. Uaranus varius, Merrem.<br> +Lacerta varia, White, Journal of a Voyage to New Holland, 253, t. +38. Shaw, Nat. Misc. t. 83.<br> +Tupinambis variegatus, Daud. Rept. iij. 76.<br> +Monitor bigarre, Cuv. Reg. Anim. ij. 24.</p> +<p>This species, better known to English Dealers under the name +of The Lace Lizard, is peculiar in having the two series of the +scales, placed on the upper part of the centre of the tail, +raised into a biserrated ridge, and in the outer toe, or rather +thumb, of the hinder-foot being long, and reaching to the +penultimate distal joint of the first or longest toe; the claws +are compressed, sharp.</p> +<p>Genus PHELSUMA. Gray.</p> +<p>Pedes quatuor, digitis fere aequalibus, totis lobatis, +muticis; poris femoralibus distinctis.</p> +<p>Caput et truncus supra tesserulis minutis, infra squamis +minimis, tecti.</p> +<p>This genus, which appears to be confined to the Isle of +France, differs from the rest of the Geckonidae, by the toes +being dilated the whole length, and entirely clawless, and +covered beneath with transverse scales; by the thumb being very +small and indistinct, and by the thighs being furnished with a +series of minute pores.</p> +<p>3. Phelsuma ornata (n.s.).<br> +P. supra plumbea macula, fasciaque rufa ornata, subtus +albida.<br> +Icon. --<br> +Inhabits Isle of France.</p> +<p>Head depressed, truncated in front, covered with minute ovate +scales; the front of the upper part lead-coloured, with a rather +broad red band a little before the eyes, and a white +crescent-shaped spot on each side immediately behind it, and then +some obscure red shades just behind that; the back lead-coloured +and blue, with six longitudinal series of irregular-sized red +spots; belly whitish; tail rather longer than the body. Body one +inch and five-eighths, head half an inch, tail two inches and a +half long.</p> +<p>This animal is very interesting, as being the second species +of a genus recently established, which only consisted of P. +cepedia, the Gecko cepedien of Peron; Cuv. Reg. Anim. 2 46. and 4 +t. 5. f. 5.; which has somewhat the manner of colouring, but is +very distinct from the Gecko ocellatus of Oppel.</p> +<h4>Genus TILIQUA. Gray.</h4> +<p>Pedes quatuor pentadactyli, poris femoralibus nullis.<br> +Caput scutatum; dentes in palato nulli.<br> +Truncus regulariter squamosus.</p> +<p>This genus is distinguished from the true Skinks by the want +of Palatine teeth, the shorter body, and the holes of the ears +being furnished on their front part with a fringe. It differs +from the succeeding Genus, Trachysaurus, in the head being +covered with distinct flat plates, and the whole of the body with +cut hexangular scales; the scales are harder than those of the +true Skink, but not so distinctly bony as those of the +Trachysaurus.</p> +<p>4. Tiliqua tuberculata. Gray.<br> +Lacerta scincoides. Shaw, Nat. Misc.<br> +Lacerta occidua. var. Shaw, Zool. iij. 289.<br> +Scincus tuberculatus, Merrem. Syst. Amph. 73.<br> +Scincoid, or Skink-formed Lizard, White, Journal 242.<br> +Icon. White, l. c. t. 30. Shaw, N. M. t. 179; Zool. iij. t. +81.</p> +<p>This Lizard, which was first described in the excellent +journal of Mr. White, does not appear to be uncommon on the coast +of Australia, as there are several specimens both in the British +Museum and in the collection of the Linnean Society, that were +probably taken in the neighbourhood of the colony; the specimen +before me was caught at Seal Island, in King George the Third's +Sound.</p> +<p>The scales of the whole of the body are broad, hexangular, +with five or six longitudinal, slightly-raised ridges, which +gradually taper, and are lost just before they reach the margin. +The legs are short, thick; the toes of the fore-feet are rather +short, the outer reaching to the middle of the second, the second +and third equal; the fourth reaching to the last joint of the +third, and the little one to the second joint of the fourth +finger. In the hind foot the first and third toe are nearly +equal, and only half as long as the second; the fourth only half +as long as the third; and the fifth about half the length of the +fourth toe.</p> +<h4>Genus TRACHYSAURUS. Gray.</h4> +<p>Pedes quatuor pentadactyli.<br> +Caput sub-scutatum, dentes in palato nulli.<br> +Truncus supra sqoamis crassis elongatis subspinosis, infra +hexagonis membranaceis imbricatis, tectus.<br> +Cauda brevis, depressa.</p> +<p>This genus is at once distinguished from the former, and +indeed from the whole of the Scincidae, by the large hard scales +that cover the back of the body and head; which are formed of +distinct triangular long plates, rough on the outside, and +covered with a membranaceous skin. The body shields of the head +pass gradually into the dorsal plates. The teeth short, thick, +and conical; the palate toothless. The belly and lower surface of +the tail are covered with large six-sided scales, like the other +genera of the family. The head is rather large, triangular. The +legs short, weak; the toes very short, covered only with as many +scales as there are joints; the outer and innermost being about +half as long as the three central toes, which are nearly of equal +length; claws short, conical, channelled beneath. The tail short, +depressed.</p> +<p>5. Trachysaurus rugosus (n.s.)<br> +T. squamis dorsi rugosis, caudae subspinosis; cauda +brevissima.</p> +<p>The body nearly uniform, chestnut brown; the head depressed +with the scales convex, and more nearly of an equal size than +usual: those round the eyes and mouth large; the three anterior +scales on the edge of the lower jaw larger than those which cover +the lower surface of the head, body, and tail, which are uniform, +distinct, large, and membranaceous: the scales of the back are +nearly of equal size with those covering the commencement of the +tail; they are furnished with a prominent midrib, and end in a +point. The legs very short, compressed, covered with nearly +smooth, rather thin, scales. The toes very short; claws rather +thick, and short. The tail about half the length of the body.</p> +<p>Head, three inches long.<br> +Body, seven inches.<br> +Tail, four inches.</p> +<p>Only one specimen of this exceedingly interesting animal was +brought home by Captain King, but the spirits in which it had +been preserved had unfortunately evaporated, so that it was +considerably injured; there is, however, a specimen, apparently +of the same animal, in the collection of the Linnean Society, +which wants the end of its tail.</p> +<p>The above specimen was found at King George the Third's Sound, +and is preserved in the Museum.</p> +<p>6. Agama muricata. Daud.<br> +Lacerta muricata, Shaw, in White's Journal of a Voyage to New +South Wales, 244.<br> +Lacerta Agama, var. ? Shaw, Gen. Zool. iij. 211.<br> +Muricated Lizard, Shaw.<br> +Icon. Shaw, Gen. Zool. t. 65, and White's Journal t. 31. f. +2.</p> +<p>This lizard was first described in Mr. White's Journal, by the +late Dr. Shaw, who paid particular attention to that class of +animals; but he was afterwards inclined to consider it as only a +variety of the common Lacerta agama, or American Galeote, from +which, however, it is quite distinct.</p> +<p>It appears to be a young specimen, since its length is only +seven inches, whilst that described by Dr. Shaw was more than a +foot in length; and some have been caught even of a much larger +size. The Doctor's figure is remarkably good, but rather more +spinous than the specimen under examination, which is probably +another proof of its youth. It was taken and preserved by Mr. +James Hunter, R.N., who accompanied Captain King as surgeon +during the Mermaid's third voyage, and has been presented by him +to the British Museum.</p> +<p>7. Disteira doliata. Lacepede, Ann. de Museum, D'Hist. Nat. 4 +199. 210.<br> +Enhydris doliatus, Merrem, Syst. Amph. 140.<br> +Icon. Lacep. Ann. Mus. 4 t. 57. f. 2.</p> +<p>The series of small hexagonal shields on the abdomen of this +curious animal appears to be formed of two series of scales +united laterally. The length of the specimen brought home by +Captain King exceeds four feet. The figure by M. Lacepede seems +to be too short, but his description agrees admirably with our +specimen, which has been presented to the British Museum.</p> +<p>8. Leptophis* punctulatus (n.s.).<br> +N. squamis laevibus apice uni-indentatis, spinae dorsalis +triangularibus; cauda quadrantali, tenui, squamis aequalibus.</p> +<blockquote>(*Footnote. I have adopted Mr. Bell's manuscript name +for this genus since his paper was read at the Zoological club of +the Linnean Society, before the publication of my genera of +Reptiles in the Annals of Philosophy, where I erroneously +considered it as synonymous with Dr. Leach's genus Macrosoma +instead of my Ahaetulla. J.E.G.)</blockquote> +<p>Scales uniform, pale brown, with a minute black dot impressed +on the apex: body slender, compressed: abdominal scutae rather +broad. The series of scales on the side next to the ventral +plates ovate and blunt; those on the sides narrow, linear, in +five series; the series of scales along the centre of the back +long, triangular. This arrangement of the scales gradually +assumes a uniform appearance on the neck close to the head, where +they are ovate. Head rather long with nine plates, frontal plate +being divided; the snout very blunt, truncated; the upper central +labial scale octangular, with a deep concavity on the labial +margin; the anterior and posterior mental scales long. The tail +one-fourth the length of the body, covered with uniform ovate +quadrangular scales. Length, four feet.</p> +<p>This species appears to have a considerable affinity to the +genus named Macrosoma by Dr. Leach, but not described by him, and +is very much like Coluber decorus of Shaw. It belongs to the +group called by English Zoologists, Whip Snakes.</p> +<p>The specimen above described was taken by Mr. James Hunter, at +Careening Bay, on the north coast, and presented by him to the +British Museum.</p> +<p>9. Leptophis spilotus.<br> +Coluber spilotus, Lacepede, Ann. Mus. iv 209.</p> +<p>A specimen of this snake was brought home by Captain King, +agreeing very well with the short description given by Lacepede, +in his account of some new species of animals from New Holland. +It has not been taken notice of in the modern works on Reptiles. +It may, perhaps, be distinct from it; but upon considering that +upwards of two hundred species of this genus have been already +described, I thought it best not to increase the number without +very good reason. This species forms a second section in the +genus Leptophis, on account of the form of its scales, +particularly those of the throat.</p> +<p>Captain King has informed me that turtles of two or three +kinds are common on the coasts of Australia, particularly within +the tropic; and Alligators were seen, in great abundance, in the +rivers of the northern and north-western coasts, particularly in +those that empty themselves into the bottom of Van Diemen's Gulf; +but as no specimens of either of these animals were preserved, no +further notice can be taken of them.*</p> +<blockquote>(*Footnote. The turtle that frequents the North-east +Coast, in the nei</blockquote> +ghbourhood of Endeavour River, is a variety of the Testudo mydas. +See Banks and Solander manuscripts.) +<hr align="center" width="20%"> +<h3>PISCES.</h3> +<p align="center">BY JOHN EDWARD GRAY, ESQUIRE, M.G.S.</p> +<p>1. Tetraodon argenteus. Lacepede, Ann. Mus. 4 203.<br> +Icon. Ann. Mus. l.c. t. 58. f. 2.</p> +<p>2. Chironectes tuberosus, G. Cuvier, Mem. Mus. 3 432.<br> +Icon. --</p> +<p>There are two other species of this genus in Captain King's +collection, which appear to be new.</p> +<p>3. Balistes australis. Donovan. Naturalist. Repos. 26.<br> +Icon. l.c.</p> +<p>4. Teuthis australis (n.s.).<br> +T. fusca, fasciis sexta transversis nigro-fuscis, cauda +truncata.<br> +Icon. --</p> +<p>Body brown, paler beneath, with six transverse blackish-brown +bands; the first placed across the eye and front angle of the +gill flap; the second obliquely across the pectoral fin, and the +three next, nearly equidistant, straight across the body, the +last band placed between the spine and the base of the rays of +the tail; and with a black longitudinal line between the eyes. +Teeth flat, rather broad, rounded at the end, and denticulated. +The gills flat, unarmed; pectoral fin subacute, triangular; +ventral fin triangular, supported by a very strong first ray; +dorsal and anal fins rounded. Tail truncated, spine on the side +of the tail very distinct, imbedded in a sheath. Pectoral fin, +fifteen rays, first very short: Ventral fin, five rays, one very +strong, short. Dorsal fin, thirty-one; anterior very strong, +first short. Anal fin, twenty-three; two first very strong and +short. Caudal fin, sixteen rays, divided.</p> +<p>Body 3; tail 1 1/4 inches long. Body 2 3/4 high; dorsal fin +3/4; pectoral fin 1 1/4 inches long.</p> +<p>This fish belongs to the Genus Acanthurus of Bloch, adopted by +Shaw (Harpurus, of Forster) but as that genus is apparently +formed from the type of Linnaeus' Genus, Teuthis, I have adopted +the latter name for those Chetodons which have one spine on each +side of the tail, and Acanthurus for those that have two. They +are usually called Lancet-fish, from the curious structure of the +sub-caudal spines.</p> +<p>Captain King has presented to the Museum seven or eight other +sorts of fish, in spirits, and several interesting drawings, +which I have not hitherto been enabled to find in any of the +works on Ichthyology, but so little is known of the genera and +species of this department of Natural History, that I am not +inclined to describe them as new, for fear of increasing the +confusion at present existing.</p> +<p>Among the unnamed fish, there is one exactly similar to a +species found by my late friend Mr. Cranch, in the South +Atlantic.</p> +<p>5. Squalus ocellatus. Gmelin, Syst. Nat. 1494.<br> +Squalus oculatus. Banks and Solander, manuscripts.</p> +<p>6. Squalus glaucus.</p> +<p>Captain King observes, this fish is frequently found in the +neighbourhood of the coast.</p> +<p>7. Squalus----.<br> +Captain King in his manuscripts observes, that a species of shark +was observed commonly near the shores, having a short nose, with +a very capacious mouth; the body was of an ash grey colour, +marked with darker spots, of a round shape, and about two inches +in diameter. This shark was usually ten or eleven feet long.</p> +<hr align="center" width="20%"> +<h3>ANNELIDES.</h3> +<p>1. Leodice gigantea. Savigny Syst. des Annel. page 49. Lam. 5 +322.<br> +Eunice gigantea, Cuv. Reg. Anim. 2 524.<br> +Nereis aphroditois, Pall. Nov. Act. Petrop. 2 229. table 5. +figure 1.7.<br> +Terebella aphroditois, Gmelin, Syst. Nat. 3114.</p> +<p>The specimen brought by Captain King is nearly five feet long, +and was procured at the Isle of France.</p> +<hr align="center" width="20%"> +<h3>ANNULOSA.</h3> +<p align="center">CATALOGUE OF INSECTS, COLLECTED BY CAPTAIN +KING, R.N.</p> +<p align="center">BY WILLIAM SHARP MACLEAY, ESQUIRE, A.M., +F.L.S.</p> +<p>The collection consists of one hundred and ninety-two species, +of which one hundred and thirty belong to the class Mandibulata, +fifty-eight to Haustellata, and four to the Arachnida. Eighty-one +of the species are new, and the extent to which each order of +winged insects has been collected, will be best understood from +the following summary.</p> +<p><b>COLUMN 1: MANDIBULATA.<br> +COLUMN 2: HAUSTELLATA.</b></p> +<p>108 Coleoptera : 40 Lepidoptera.<br> +8 Orthoptera : 2 Homoptera.<br> +5 Neuroptera : 8 Hemiptera.<br> +9 Hymenoptera : 8 Diptera.</p> +<p>Total 188 Species.</p> +<p>This number is, of course, not sufficient to allow any general +remarks to be founded on the collection, and the following +Catalogue is, therefore, merely descriptive.</p> +<h4>CLASS MANDIBULATA.</h4> +<h4>Order COLEOPTERA.</h4> +<p>1. Panagaeus quadrimaculatus. Oliv. Enc. Meth. Hist. Nat.</p> +<p>Obs. There is a wretched figure of this insect given in the +fourth volume of Cuvier's Regne Animal.</p> +<p>2. Paecilus kingii (n.s.) P. atronitidus, antennis tomentosis +obscuris, basi et apice piceis, labri margine antico palpisque +rufo-piceis, thorace linea media longitudinali vix marginem +posticum attingente fossulaque utrinque postica, elytris striatis +vix atro-aeneis tibiis ad apicem tarsisque atro-piceis.</p> +<p>3. Gyrinus rufipes. Fab. Syst. Eleuth. page 276. 13.</p> +<p>Obs. The description of this species, as given by Fabricius is +very vague; but as it applies tolerably well to the insect +collected by Captain King, I have not thought proper to give it a +new name.</p> +<p>4. Silpha lacrymosa. Schreiber, in Linnean Transactions 6 194. +t. 20, f. 5.</p> +<p>5. Creophilus erythrocephalus.<br> +Staphylinus erythrocephalus. Fab. Syst. Eleuth. 2 593. 19.</p> +<p>6. Hister cyaneus. Fab. Syst. Eleuth. 1 page 88. 13.</p> +<p>7. Hister. speciosus. Dej. Cat. page 48.</p> +<p>8. Passalus polyphyllus (n.s.) P. ater depressiusculus, +antennis sex-lamellatis, vertice tuberculis tribus, intermedio +majore compressa linearum superiorem duarum elevatarum +transversarum dissecante, thoracis lateribus rufo-ciliatis, +elytrorum striis lateralibus punctatis.</p> +<p>9. Passalus edentulus (n.s.) P. ater convexiusculus antennis +triphyllis, verticis cornu elevato incurva canaliculato apice +emarginato, tuberculo utrinque acuto, elytrorllm striis +subpunctatis, mandibulis concavis extus dentatis.</p> +<p>Obs. This insect is much less in size than the former, and is +more convex.</p> +<p>10. Lamprima aenea. Horae Entom. 1 page 101. 3.</p> +<p>11. Dasygnathus dejeanii. Horae Entom. 1 page 141. 1.</p> +<p>12. Trox alternans (n.s.) T. capite antice linea angulati +elevata marginato, thorace lineis quatuor mediis elevatis, +exterioribus interruptis tuberculisque utrinque duobus +inaequalibus, elytris tuberculis striatim dispositis, striis +alternatim majoribus.</p> +<p>13. Melolontha festiva. Fab. Syst. Eleuth. 2 171. page 63.</p> +<p>Obs. This most beautiful insect ought to be considered as the +type of a new genus near to Serica.</p> +<p>14. Diphucephala sericea. Kirby, in Linnean Transactions 12 +page 463.</p> +<p>Obs. This genus I had named Agrostiphila in my manuscripts, +but M. Dejean has since published it under the name of +Diphucephala.</p> +<p>15. Diphucephala splendens (n.s.). D. viridis nitidissima +antennis palpisque nigris, capite antice thoracisque lateribus +subpunctatis, media canaliculato, elytris punctis rugosis +seriatim dispositis, corpore subtus hirsutie incano.</p> +<p>An Melolontha colaspidoides, Schon. App. 101. ?</p> +<p>16. Cetonia variegata. Fab. Syst. Eleuth. 2 page 157. 112. C. +luctuosa. Lat. in Cat. Mus. Gall.</p> +<p>Obs. This insect is an inhabitant of the Isle of France, and +was probably collected by Captain King during his stay in that +island.</p> +<p>17. Cetonia australasiae. Donov. Ins. of New Holland, table +1.</p> +<p>18. Cetonia dorsalis. Donov. Ins. of New Holland, table 1.</p> +<p>19. Anoplognathus viridiaeneus. Horae. Ent. 1 page 144. 1.</p> +<p>20. Anoplognathus viriditarsis. Leach. Zool. Miscel. 2 44.</p> +<p>21. Anoplognathus rugosus. Kirby, Linnean Transactions 12 +405.</p> +<p>22. Anoplognathus inustus. Kirby, Linnean Transactions 12 +405.</p> +<p>23. Repsimus aeneus. Melolontha aenea. Fab. Syst. Eleuth. 2 +page 166. 30.</p> +<p>24. Repsimus dytiscoides. Horae. Entom. 1 page 144. 2.</p> +<p>25. Buprestis macularis. Buprestis macularia. Don. Ins. of New +Holland, table 8.</p> +<p>26. Buprestis imperialis. Fab. Syst. Eleuth. 2 page 204. +98.</p> +<p>27. Buprestis suturalis. Don. Ins. of New Holland, table +8.</p> +<p>28. Buprestis variabilis. Don. Ins. of New Holland, table +7.</p> +<p>29. Buprestis kingii (n.s.) B. elytris striatis +nigro-violaceis testaceo-quadrifasciatis haud bidentatis, thorace +punctato nigro-aeneo lateribus testaceis.</p> +<p>Obs. This species comes perhaps too near to some of the darker +varieties of B. variabilis, of the true appearance of which +scarcely any idea can be formed from the figures of Donovan. Our +insect bears a remarkable similarity to a Surinam Buprestis, with +serrated elytra.</p> +<p>30. Buprestis bimaculata. Lin. Syst. Nat. 2 662. 16. Oliv. +Ins. 2 32, table 12, figure 140.</p> +<p>Obs. This is an East Indian Insect; and, as Captain King +collected a few species in the Isle of France, this is probably +one of them.</p> +<p>31. Buprestis fissiceps. Kirby, in Linnean Transactions 12 +page 458, table 23, figure 4.</p> +<p>32. Buprestis lapidosa (n.s.) B. cuprea scabrosa thorace +lineis duabus parallelis longitudinalibus elevatis, elytris +integris subacuminatis substriatis inter tuberculos punctatis, +corpore subtus aeneo.</p> +<p>33. Elater xanthomus (n.s.) E. ater antennis apicem versus +dilatatis serratis, thorace punctato canaliculato, elytris +punctatis striatis pubescentibus basi late auratis +dimidiatis.</p> +<p>Obs. This insect is about four lines long, and entirely black, +except the upper half of the elytra.</p> +<p>34. Elater nigro-terminatus (n.s.) E. luteus cavite +antennisque atris, thorace convexo macula longitudinali +sub-acuminata a margine antico ultra medium attingente, elytris +punctato~striatis apice late nigris, anoque nigro.</p> +<p>Obs. This insect is about the same length with the former, +having its feet and underside entirely yellow, excepting the head +and a black anal spot, something like the letter V.</p> +<p>35. Lycus serraticornis. Fab. Syst. Eleuth. volume 2 1ll. +6.</p> +<p>36. Lycus septemcavus (n.s.) L. ater thorace parabolico +fossulis septem, quatuor anticis fere aequalibus, posticarum +media angusta lanciformi, duabus lateralibus latis antice +emarginatis. Scutello quadrato nigro; elytrls rubris marginatis +lineis quatuor elevatis, interstitiis duplici serie punctorum +transversorum crenatis.</p> +<p>37. Lycus rhipidium (n.s.) L. ater antennis fiabellatis; +thorace angulis porrectis obtusis, fossulis septem, posticarum +trium media longitudinali lanciformi; scutello quadrato nigro; +elytris rubris marginatis lineis novem elevatis, quatuor +alternatim majoribus, interstitiis crenatis.</p> +<p>38. Telephorus pulchellus (n.s.) T. capite thoraceque +nigro-nitidis, hujus margine postico late rufo, elytris +viridi-caeruleis tomentosis punctatis ad suturam marginatis, +corpore pedibusque nigris abdomine subtus rufo.</p> +<p>39. Malachius verticalis, (n.s.) M. rufo-testaceus vertice +antennisque apice nigro-nitidis, thorace testaceo. elytris fascia +humerali mediaque violaceis, postpectore pedibus anoque +nigris.</p> +<p>40. Clerus cruciatus (n.s.) C. testacea tomentosa, capite +thoracis lateribus elytrorumque maculis duabus longitudinalibus, +quarum postica latiori, nigris, elytris striato-punctatis apice +rufescentibus, antennis piceis. pedibus palpisque pallidis.</p> +<p>41. Oedemera livida. Oliv. Ins. 50, table 1 figure 2.<br> +Dryops livida. Fab. Syst. Eleuth. 2 68. 3.</p> +<p>42. Oedemera lineata. Oliv. Ins. 50, table 1 figure 4.<br> +Dryops lineata. Fab. Syst. Eleuth. 2 68. 4.</p> +<p>Obs. I suspect this insect to be merely a variety of the +former species.</p> +<p>43. Oedemera punctum (n.s.) Oe. flavo-nitida antennis +obscuris, fronte puncto atro-nitido impresso, thorace lunula +utrinque atro-nitida impresso, scutello flavo, elytris +nigro-fuscis limbo et sutura testaceis, geniculis tibiis +tarsisque nigris.</p> +<p>44. Lagria tomentosa. Fab. Syst. Eleuth. volume 2 page 70. +9.</p> +<p>45. Lagria rufescens. Dej. Cat. 72.</p> +<p>46. Cistela securigera (n.s.) C. subtus picea supra brunnea +pubescens, antennis apice palporumque articulo ultimo securiformi +nigris, elytris punctis crenatis striatis.</p> +<p>47. Amarygmus tristis.<br> +Cnodulon triste. Fab. Syst. Eleuth. 2 page 13. 4.</p> +<p>Obs. The characters of this genus are given by Fabricius under +the head of Cnodulon, but the true Cnodulon of M. Latreille is a +native of St. Domingo, and a different genus of which the +characters are to be found in the Genera Crustaceorum et +Insectorum. The genus has, however, been of late more accurately +investigated by Dalman, in his Analecta Entomologica, and he has +given it the name of Amarygmus.</p> +<p>48. Amarygmus viridicollis (n.s.) A. convexiusculus capite +thoraceque viridi-caeruleis, elytris cupreis striato-punctatis, +corpore subtus chalybeo pedibusque nigris.</p> +<p>49. Amarygmus velutinus (n.s.) A. atro-nitidus glaberrimus +labri margine rubro, elytris nigro-aeneis punctorum striis +minutissimis.</p> +<p>Obs. This beautiful insect is one of the largest of a genus +which contains a great number of species.</p> +<p>50. Adelium calosoioides. Kirby, in Linnean Transactions 12 +page 420. 57. table 22. figure 2.</p> +<p>51. Adelium caraboides. Kirby, in Linnean Transactions 12 page +466. 17.</p> +<p>52. Phalidura mirabilis.<br> +Curculio mirabilis. Kirby, in Linnean Transactions 12 469. 21. +table 23, figure 9.</p> +<p>Obs. The characters of this most singular genus Phalidura are +chiefly to be found in the broken clavate antennae, short thick +rustrum, connate elytra, and singular anal forceps of the +male.</p> +<p>53. Phalidura kirbii (n.s.) P. nigro-fusca clypeo subfurcato +utrinque canaliculato, thorace confertim noduloso, elytris lineis +elevatis interstitiis crenatis lateribusque +punctato-striatis.</p> +<p>54. Phalidura draco (n.s.) P. atrofusca vertice concavo cruce +impresso, clypeo emarginato, thorace depresso utrinque dilatato +dentato margine antico tuberculato tuberculourmque lineis quatuor +duabus mediis longitudinalibus, elytris punctis elevatis +scabrosis utrinque dentibus acutis seriatim armatis, lateribus +seriatim nudulosis medioque linea tuberculorum sub-duplici +instructo.</p> +<p>Obs. This and the following species are not true Phalidurae; +at least neither appears to have the anal forceps, but as they +come close in affinity to the genus Phalidura, I have not for the +present ventured to give them a new generic name.</p> +<p>55. Phalidura marshami. Kirby, in Linnean Transactions 12 436. +77.</p> +<p>Obs. This insect appears to be a Chrysolopus in M. Dejean's +Catalogue.</p> +<p>56. Hybauchenia nodulosa (n.s.) H. atra capite laevi vel +punctis minutissimis impresso, clypeo canaliculato, thorace +irregulariter noduloso, elytris sutura laeviori punctis que +elevatis striatis striis duabus a sutura alternatim +majoribus.</p> +<p>Obs. I regret that I am not able to give the detailed +characters of this genus at present. I shall merely, therefore, +say that it has the broken clavate antennae of Phalidura, only +they are here longer than the head and thorax taken together. The +body is very convex:, having the thorax as wide as the abdomen, +subquadrate, with very convex sides. Abdomen joined to thorax by +a distinct peduncle. Elytra very convex, with almost +perpendicular sides. Feet long, with rather incrassated +femora.</p> +<p>57. Chrysolopus spectabilis.<br> +Curculio spectabilis. Fab. Syst. Eleuth. 2 537. 184.</p> +<p>58. Chrysolupus echidna (n.s.) C. atrofuscus vertice +trilineato, thorace punctis scabro medio concavo subcarinato +lineis utrinque elevatis, elytris crenatis seriebus spinarum +duabus interiori anum versus abbreviata; spinis anticis depressis +obtusis, posticis acutis. C. echidna. Dej. Cat. 88.</p> +<p>59. Chrysolopus tuberculatus (n.s.) C. fuscus vertice lineato, +thorace punctis scabro medio canaliculato, elytris punctis +seriatim impressis, tuberculorumque seriebus tribus minutis +interiori abbreviata; tuberculo postico suturali maximo.</p> +<p>60. Chrysolopus quadridens.<br> +Curculio 4-dens. Fab. Syst. Eleuth. 2 536. 175.</p> +<p>Obs. The three last species can scarcely be considered to +belong to the same genus with C. spectabilis; but I follow M. +Dejean until the whole family be more accurately +investigated.</p> +<p>61. Gastrodus crenulatus.<br> +Curculio crenulatus. Fab. Syst. Eleuth. 2 518. 64.</p> +<p>62. Gastrodus albolineatus (n.s.) G. niger thorace +scabriusculo rugis transversis duabus lineaque laterali alba, +elytris nigris striato-punctatis sutura striaque media elevatis +laevibus linea laterali alba haud apicem attingente, apice +rufescente albo-punctato.</p> +<p>63. Festus rubripes (n.s.) F. niger capite linea transversa +constricto; vertice lineis quatuor elevatis clypeoque tribus, +antennis piceis clava obscura, thorace punctis elevatis scabro: +elytris punctis impressis striatis, punctis conspicuis +argenteo-squamigeris pedibus rufis geniculis obscuris.</p> +<p>Obs. I am doubtful whether this insect truly belongs to +Megerle's genus Festus. The antennae are much shorter than in +Pachygaster.</p> +<p>64. Cenchroma lanuginosa. Dej. Cat. page 95.</p> +<p>65. Cenchroma obscura (n.s.) C. nigra squamis cinereis asperga +clypeo lineis duabus mediis approximatis elevatis lateribus +albis, thorace canaliculato, elytris punctis impressis striatis +squamisque cinereis subaureis praesertim ad latera aspersis, +corpore subtus ad latera pedibusque albo-squamosis.</p> +<p>66. Curculio cultratus. Fab. Syst. Eleuth. 2 586. 173.<br> +Oliv. Ins. 83. figure 157.</p> +<p>Obs. This is a new genus of the Curculionidae, but as I am not +able in this place to give the characters of it, I prefer to cite +the insect under its Fabrician title.</p> +<p>67. Rhynchaenus cylindrirostris. Fab. Syst. Eleuth. 2 463. +125.<br> +Oliv. Ins. 83, figure 128.</p> +<p>Obs. This insect is altogether as different from the true +Rhynchaeni, as the preceding one is from the true +Curculiones.</p> +<p>68. Rhynchaenus bidens. Fab. Syst. Eleuth. 2 457. 96.<br> +Oliv. Ins. 83. figure 113.</p> +<p>Obs. This is also not a true Rhynchaenus, but is a very +singular insect in appearance, as the acute spine, which rises +from each elytron, appears to be its peculiar defence against +entomological collectors.</p> +<p>69. Eurhinus scabrior. Kirby. in Linnean Transactions 12 page +428. 65.</p> +<p>70. Rhinotia haemoptera. Kirby, in Linnean Transactions 12 +page 426.</p> +<p>71. Orthorhynchus suturalis (n.s.) O. nigro-fuscus punctis +impressus vertice ad oculos albo-bilineato, thorace fossula +postica media alba, elytris ad suturam linea pilis alba, corpore +subtus lateribus albis.</p> +<p>72. Carpophagus banksiae (n.s.) C. nigro-fuscus pilis albis +aspersus capite thoraceque punctatis linea media glabra divisis, +scutello cinereo, elytris rugosis lineis quatuor subelevatis, +corpore subtus pedibusque cinereo-sericeis.</p> +<p>Table B. figure 1.</p> +<p>Obs. This curious insect is said to be found on the Banksia, +and would probably, with Linnaeus, have been a Bruchus. The +following are the characters of this new genus.</p> +<p>CARPOPHAGUS (novum genus.)</p> +<p>Antennae ante oculos insertae filiformes articulo basilari +crassiori, secundo subgloboso brevissimo, ultimo apice conico +acuto,</p> +<p>Labrum semicirculare margine antico integro rotundato +ciliato.</p> +<p>Mandibulae validae corneae arcuatae, intus apicem versus +subsinuatae edentulae basin versus ciliatae vel +submembranaceae.</p> +<p>Maxillae basi corneae processubus duobus membranaceis apicem +versus instructae, lobo externo vel apicali ovali extus ciliato; +interno tenuiori lanciformi apice acuto.</p> +<p>Palpi maxillares breves crassi vix ultra maxillarum apicem +extensi, quadriarticulati articulo stipitali vix conspicuo +secundo obconico tertio subgloboso breviori ultimo ovali +obtuso.</p> +<p>Palpi labiales triarticulati articulo stipitali minimo, +secundo obconico longiore, ultimo crassiori ovato, apice +truncato.</p> +<p>Labium obcordatum basi corneum angustius apice membranaceum +medio emarginatum ciliatum lobo utrinque rotundato.</p> +<p>Mentum semicirculare antice rotundatum medio emarginato sive +edentulo.</p> +<p>Caput porrectum oculis prominulis thorace angustiua clypeo +quadrato vertice inter oculos fossulis duabus antice +convergentibus. Thorax haud marginatus lateribus haud rotundatis +subcylindricus antice angustius, postice sublobatus. Scutellum +tuberculare mucronatum. Abdomen thorace duplo latius. Elytra +convexa humeris eminentibus postice divergentia rotundata. Pedes +pentameri articulis tribus tarsorum primis ciliatis pulvillatis +dilatatis, tertio bilobo, quarto brevissimo et quinto tenuibus +obconicis, hoc biunguiculato. Femora postica valde incrassata +intus unidentata; dente magno. Tibiae posticae compressae apice +dilatatae.</p> +<p>73. Megamerus kingii (n.s.) M. nigro-fuscus labro palpisque +piceis thorace vix punctato postice rugoso, elytris rugis vel +punctis confluentibus substriatis fossula ad humeros profunda +lineaque suturali impressis, corpore subtus pilis sub-sericeo +pedibusque concoloribus.</p> +<p>Table B. figure 2.</p> +<p>Obs. This singular insect has an affinity to Sagra, but +differs from that genus in having setiform antennae, porrect +mandibles, and securiform palpi. Its habit is also totally +different from that of a Sagra, and more like that of some of +those insects which belong to the heterogeneous magazine called +Prionus. It is, undoubtedly, the most singular and novel form in +Captain King's collection, and forms a new genus, of which the +characters are as follow.</p> +<p>MEGAMERUS (novum genus).</p> +<p>Antennae inter oculos insertae filiformes vel potius setaceae +articulo basilari crassiori secundo subgloboso brevissimo apicali +acuto.</p> +<p>Labrum transverso-quadratum antice submembranaceum tomentosum +subemarginatum.</p> +<p>Mandibulae exertae porrectae supra convexiusculae lunulatae +vel falciformes dorso subsinuatae apice vel extus oblique +truncatae acutissimae.</p> +<p>Maxillae basi corneae processubus duobus submembranaceis +apicem versus instructae, lobo externo vel apicali ovali extus +ciliato, interno tenuiori apice subacuto margineque interno vix +unidentato.</p> +<p>Palpi maxillares quadriarticulati, articulo stipitali minimo +inconspicuo, secundo obconico longo duobus ultimis simul sumptis +longitudine fere aequali, tertio obconico crassiori, ultimo +securiformi compressa.</p> +<p>Palpi labiales triarticulati articulo stipitali minimo +inconspicuo, secundo longo obconico setis quibusdam ad apicem +instructo, tertio triangulari compresso vel securiformi.</p> +<p>Labium membranaceum cordatam antice bilobum, lobis elongatis +ciliatis interno latere rectilineari extus ad apicem +rotundatis.</p> +<p>Mentum semicirculare antice rotundatum margine antico +emarginato. Caput porrectum oculis prominentibus thorace haud +angustius. Thorax convexus antice posticeque marginatus lateribus +rotundatis haud marginatis. Scutellum triangulare subacutum. +Abdomen thorace fere duplo latius. Elytra humeris eminentibus +marginatis, lateribus parallelis. Pedes pentameri articulis +tribus tarsorom primis ciliatis pulvillatis dilatatis, penultimo +bilobo, ultimo tenui biunguiculato. Femora postica valde +incrassata intus unidentata. Tibiae posticae compressae apice +dilatatae angulo externo acuto.</p> +<p>Obs. The structure of the tarsus in this genus, so near in +affinity to Carpophagus and Sagra, has led me to investigate more +minutely the tarsus in the tetramerous and trimerous insects of +the French entomologists, and the result has been that the +arrangement given in the third volume of M. Cuvier's Regne +Animal, is discovered to be as erroneous in point of description, +as it is inconsistent with natural affinities.</p> +<p>74. Prionus bidentatus. Don. Ins. of New Holland, table 6.</p> +<p>75. Prionus fasciatus. Don. Ins. of New Holland, table 6.</p> +<p>76. Prionus spinicollis (n.s.) P. piceus antennis filiformibus +basi nigris articulo ultimo vix crassiore, capite fusco +tomentoso, thorace nigro-fusco punctis scabroso, lateribus +spinulosus, in medio postice carina laevi tuberculoque utrinque +magno compressa scabro; scutello piceo nigro-marginato, elytris +testaceis punctulatis substriatis apice unidentatis, pectoris +lateribus rufo-tomentosis.</p> +<p>77. Distichocera maculicollis. Kirby, in Linnean Transactions +12.</p> +<p>78. Distichocera ? rubripennis (n.s.) D. rufo-testacea +subtomentosa, capitis lateribus oreque nigris, vertice +canaliculato, antennis nigris articulis vix biramosis ramis +sinistris brevissimis, thorace atro vitta utrinque rufotestacea, +scutello nigro, elytris rufo-testaceis tomentosis apice obtusis +dehiscentibus, corpore cuneiformi subtus villo argenteo micante, +abdomine utrinque nigro maculato, pedibus nigris.</p> +<p>Obs. This insect may be considered a Molorchus with elytra as +long as its wings; and it, therefore, evidently connects this +genus with Distichocera.</p> +<p>79. Clytus thoracicus. Don. Sys. of New Holland, table 5.</p> +<p>Obs. This insect leaves the typical form of Clytus, so much as +to make me hesitate in placing it in the genus.</p> +<p>80. Callidium bajulus. Fab. Syst. Eleulh. 2 333. 2.</p> +<p>Obs. This insect answers perfectly well to the specific +description as given by Fabricius, but is rather larger than the +European insect, and has eight obsolete white spots disposed in +two parallel bands on the back of the elytra.</p> +<p>81. Callidium erosum (n.s.) C. nigrum capite punctato, ore +testaceo, antennis apice fuscis, thorace tomentoso punctato vel +potius punctis confluentibus eroso disco rufo medio +subtuberculato, elytris acuminatis apice deflexis lineis duabus +elevatis interstitiis punctis confertissimis pulcherrime erosis +sutura margineque rufis, corpore subtus pedibusque +tomentosis.</p> +<p>Var. B. Major, cavite rufo antennis fuscis, elytris rufis +litura inter lineas duas elevatas solum nigricante, pedibus +nigropiceis.</p> +<p>82. Callidium solandri.<br> +Lamia solandri. Oliv. Ins. 67. 133. Plate 16. figure 118.<br> +Fab. Ent. Syst. 2. 292. 97.</p> +<p>Obs. I place Olivier's Synonym in this case first; because the +Fabrician description is so erroneous, that did we not know the +original insect in the Banksian Collection, there would be no +possibility of making it out.</p> +<p>83. Stenochorus semipunctatus. Fab. Syst. Eleuth. 2 306, +8.</p> +<p>Obs. This and the three following species belong to the +Stenochori Callidiiformes of Schonnher.</p> +<p>84. Stenochorus acanthocerus (n.s.) S. fusco-ferrugineus +capite punctato, antennis rubris articulo tertio quarto quinto et +sexto apice spinosis, ore rubro, maxillis elongatis apice +ciliatis membranaceis, palpis securiformibus, thorace obscuro +utrinque unispinoso margine antico tuberculisque dorsalibus +utrinque duobus posticoque semicirculari rubris, scutello rubro; +elytris rubris fasciis tribus nigris undatis, ad basin inter +lineas elevatas subcrenatis apicemque versus punctatis apice +bidentatis; corpore subtus nigro-nitido tomentoso pedibus +rubris.</p> +<p>85. Stenochorus dorsalis (n.s.) S. fulvo-piceus capite +angusto, labro palpisque testaceis, vertice canaliculato, thorace +inaequaliter rugoso eminentia media ovali glabra tribusque aliis +utrinque inconspicuis, elytris bidentatis lineis subelevatis +interstitiisque punctatis macula media suturali testacea antice +subemarginata, antennis subtus villosis articulis apice haud +spinosis, corpore pedibusque piceis femoribus incrassatis.</p> +<p>86. Stenochorus tunicatus (n.s.) S. flavus antennarum +articulis duobus primis nigris quinto apice septimo nonoque +nigris, thorace subcylindrico utrinque unidentato supra +quadrituberculato tuberculis anticis majoribus, elytris apice +flavis unidentatis, parte basali ultra medium subviolaceo-flava +linea obliqua terminata, corpore pedibusque flavo-testaceis.</p> +<p>87. Stenoderus abbreviatus. Dej. Cat. 112. Cerambyx +abbreviatus. Fab. Syst. Eleuth. Leptura ceramboides. Kirby, in +Linnean Transactions volume 12 page 472.</p> +<p>Obs. This is certainly Mr. Kirby's Leptura ceramboides, and +perfectly agrees with the Fabrician description of the Cerambyx +abbreviatus, except that no mention is there made of its mouth +being yellow. Mr. Kirby says of this insect, "a habitu Lepturae +omnino recedit Cerambycibus propior," and certainly were it +allowable to judge entirely from habit, it would seem to connect +those American Saperdae of Fabricius and Olivier which have +bearded antennae, such as (S. plumigera, Oliv., barbicornis, +Fab.) with some other family, perhaps the Oedemeridae. But, +however this may be, the genus Stenoderus differs from the +Cerambycidae, and agrees with the Lepturidae, inasmuch as it has +the antennae inserted between the eyes.</p> +<p>88. Stenoderus concolor (n.s.) S. obscure testceus, antennis +articulo basilari longo apice crassiori, capite thoraceque +cylindrico constricto subrufis, elytris testaceis punctatis +lineis quatuor elevatis.</p> +<p>89. Lamia vermicularis. Schon. in App. Syn. Ins. page 169, +234.<br> +L. vermicularia. Don. Ins. Fab. 5.</p> +<p>90. Lamia rugicollis. Schon. in App. Syn. Ins. page 169, +234.</p> +<p>91. Lamia bidens. Fab. Syst. Eleuth. 2 304. 124.</p> +<p>92. Acanthocinus piliger (n.s.) A. antennis obscuris pilosis +apicem versus cinereo-annulatis, capite cinereo vertice nigro +bilineato, thorace obscuro cinereo inaequali postice +subcanaliculato medio utrinque tuberculato, elytris obscuris +fasciculis minutis nigris flavis cinereisque variegatis, fascia +media cinerea undata cristaque tuberculata humeros versus.</p> +<p>93. Notoclea immaculata. Marsham, in Linnean Transactions 9 +291, table 25. figure 4.</p> +<p>94. Notoclea variolosa. Marsham, in Linnean Transactions 9 +285, table 24. figure 1.</p> +<p>95. Notoclea reticulata. Marsham, in Linnean Transactions 9 +285, table 24. figure 2.</p> +<p>96. Notoclea 4-maculata. Marsham, in Linnean Transactions 9 +287, table 24. figure 6.</p> +<p>Obs. I suspect that this insect is merely a variety of N. +reticulata.</p> +<p>97. Notoclea atomaria. Marsham, in Linnean Transactions 9 286, +table 24. figure 3.</p> +<p>98. Notoclea splendens (n.s.) N. splendidissime cuprea +antennis piceis, scutello nigro, thorace postice elytrorum sutura +maculisque duabus dorsalibus caeruleo-viridibus, elytris novem +striis punctorum subtilissime impressis.</p> +<p>99. Notoclea testacea. Marsham, in Linnean Transactions 9 289. +table 24. figure 10.</p> +<p>100. Notoclea 8-maculata. Marsham, in Linnean Transactions 9 +294. table 25. figure 10.</p> +<p>101. Podontia nigrovaria (n.s.) P. rufa thorace punctis +quatuor utrinque inter latus et fossulas anticas duas divergentes +in lineam transversam dispositis, scutellu piceo, elytris +testaceis nigro-variis striatis striis punctatis, corpore subtus +pedibusque rufis, femoribus posticis valde incrassatis.</p> +<p>Obs. This insect bears a great affinity to Chrysomela +14-punctata, Fab., and other Asiatic insects of this type, which +have been separated from Chrysomela by Dalman in his Ephemerides +Entomologicae, under the name of Podontia.</p> +<p>102. Phyllocharis cyanicornis. Dalman. Ephem. Entom. 21. +Chrysomela cyanicornis. Fab. Syst. Eleuth. 1 page 436. 85.</p> +<p>103. Phyllocharis klugii (n.s.) P. rufo-testacea antennis +scutello pedibusque atro-cyaneis, capite puncto verticali, +thorace macula posticali, elytris punctato-striatis maculis +duabus anticis cruceque apicali atro-cyaneis, abdomine subtus +atro-cyaneo limbo rufo.</p> +<p>Obs. This species comes very near to the Chrysomela cyanipes +of Fabricius, and is probably only a variety of it.</p> +<p>104. Chrysomela 18-guttata. Fab. Syst. Eleuth. 1 439. 101.<br> +Don. Ins. of New Holland, table 2.</p> +<p>105. Chrysomela curtisii. Kirby, in Linnean Transactions +volume 12.</p> +<p>106. Cryptocephalus tricolor. Fab. Syst. Eleuth. 2 51. 55. +Var. beta. Thoracis macula media nigra.</p> +<p>107. Cassida deusta. Fab. Syst. Eleuth. 1 396.44.<br> +Oliv. Ins. 97. table 1 figure 17.</p> +<p>108. Coccinella kingii (n.s.) C. pallide testacea thorace +medio maculis quinque nigris duabus anticis elongatia tribusque +posticis rotundatis, elytris nigro-tripunctatis punctis +humeralibus duobus alioque media marginali.</p> +<h4>Order ORTHOPTERA.</h4> +<p>109. Blatta australis (n.s.) B. elongato-ovata, +ferrugineo-fusca thorace suborbiculato-quadrato, marginibus +laterali et posticali lunulisque utrinque duabus paulisper +impressis, fascia ante marginem posticum nigrum lata alba +transversa, et lineolis duabus longitudinalibus mediis rufis +carinulam formantibus in furcam flavam ad marginem anticum +desinentibus.</p> +<p>Obs. The elytra of the male are much longer than the +abdomen.</p> +<p>110. Mantis quinquedens (n.s.) M. dilute-viridis thorace haud +tripla longiore quam latiore, dorso parte antica, canaliculata +excepta longitrorsum carinato, marginibus lateralibus +denticulatis, elytris thorace duplo longioribus elongato-ovatis +dilute viridibus margine externo maculaque media elevata +flavescentibus; alis hyalinis dilute ferrugineis margine antico +apiceque subfuscis; pedibus anticis coxis denticulatis margine +interna piceo lineis quatuor albis elevatis transversis in dentes +desinentibus.</p> +<p>111. Mantis darchii (n.s.) M. dilute viridis thorace quadruplo +longiore quam latiore, dorso parte antica canaliculata excepta +longitrorsum carinato, marginibus lateralibus postice haud +denticulatis, elytris thorace haud duplo longioribus linearibus +acuminatis antice viridibus margine flavescente postice +subhyalinis subfuscis, nervo costam versus crassiore, aiis apice +acuminatis margine antico dilute rufescente, medio nigro punctis +hyalinis et parte postica fusca obscura vix maculata.</p> +<p>Mantis darchii. Captain P.P. King, manuscripts.</p> +<p>Obs. This insect has been named by Captain King after his +friend Thomas Darch, Esquire, of the Admiralty.</p> +<p>112. Phasma titan (n.s) P. corpore decem unciarum longo, +subcinereo-fusco lineari, thorace spinulis quibusdam raris acutis +elytris longiore, his nigro-viridibus testaceo maculatis +maculaque in marginis antici medio magna alba, alis membranaceis +nigro-fuscis albo-maculatis, antice coriaceis ad basin rubris +nigro-maculatis ad apicem nigro-viridibus testaceo maculatis, +pedibus albo-cinereis coxis anticis trigonis angulo inferiori +dentibus magnis rufis postico minoribus et superiori nullis.</p> +<p>Obs. This immense insect, which is nearly a foot long, is now +for the first time described, although it seems to be not +uncommon in New South Wales. Although much larger, it comes very +near to the P. Gigas of Linnaeus and Stoll, and like it, belongs +to Lichtenstein's division, thus characterized, "Alata elytris +alisque in utroque sexu."</p> +<p>113. Phasma tiartum (n.s.) P. corpore fere quinque unciarum +longo cuneiformi viridi, capite tiara acuminata spinulosa +coronato, thorace antice angusto subdepresso spinuloso postice +dilatato convexiori marginibus lateralibus denticulatis, abdomine +antice cylindrico medio valde dilatato margine dentato et in +processum segmentorum trium linearem desinente segmentis supra +binis laminis dentatis in medio armatis, elytris viridibus +subovatis minutis alarum rudimentis brevioribus; pedibus +viridibus coxis triquetris, anticis angulo interiori tridentato, +superiori denticulato processu ad apicem cristato, inferiori +dilatato rotundato, quatuor posticis dilatatis ovatis margine +denticulatis, femoribus anticis extus dilatatis rotundatis apicem +versus subemarginatis, quatuor posticis triquetris angulis +dentatis exteriori valde dilatato. Table B. figure 3 et 4.</p> +<p>Obs. I have been thus particular in the description of this +rare insect, in order to afford as much information as possible +to the naturalist, who may be inclined to investigate the natural +arrangement of the Phasmina.</p> +<p>114. Locusta salicifolia (n.s.) L. viridis thorace supra plano +lateribus perpendicularibus angulis flavescentibus, elytris alis +brevioribus lanceolato-ovatis, costa flava punctis utrinque ad +medium impressis alis hyalinis acuminatis apice viridibus.</p> +<p>Obs. This insect differs from the L. unicolor of Stoll, a +Javanese insect, inasmuch as its thorax is not dentated, and is +marked at the angles with yellow.</p> +<p>115. Gryllus pictus. Leach, Zool. Misc. 1 table 25.</p> +<p>116. Gryllus regulus (n.s.) G. ferrugineo-fuscus antennis +filiformibus nigris, elytris obscure nebulosis, alis +fusco-hyalinis, thoracis lateribus postice testaceis, corpore +subtus rufo-testaceo, tibiis posticis testaceis spinis dorsalibus +rufis apicibus nigris.</p> +<h4>Order NEUROPTERA.</h4> +<p>117. Libellula sanguinea (n.s.) L. tota sanguinea alis +hyalinis stigmate fulvo nervisque sanguineis, posticis basi +flavescentibus.</p> +<p>118. Libellula oculata. Fab. Ent. Syst. 2 376. 9.</p> +<p>119. Libellula stigmatizans. Fab. Ent. Syst. 2 375. 8.</p> +<p>120. Lestes belladonna (n.s.) L. supra viridis subtus +albescens pedibus nigris, alis quatuor cultratis macula ad +marginem apicalem alba.</p> +<p>121. Agrion kingii (n.s.) A. capite nigro, fronte corporeque +subtus albidis, thorace abdomineque supra fuscis, segmentis +abdominalibus nigro alboque annulatis, alis hyalinis stigmate +fusco.</p> +<p>Order HYMENOPTERA.</p> +<p>122. Ophion luteum. Fab. Syst. Piez. 130. 1.</p> +<p>Obs. This seems, according to Fabricius, to be merely a +variety of the common European insect.</p> +<p>123. Liris angulata. Fab. Syst. Piez. 230. 9.</p> +<p>124. Pompilus morio. Fab. Syst. Piez. 187. 1.</p> +<p>125. Pompilus collaris. Fab. Syst. Piez. 187. 2.</p> +<p>126. Alyson tomentosum (n.s.) A. nigro-pubescens abdominis +segmentis apice argenteis, alis apice nigricantibus.</p> +<p>127. Thynnus variabilis. Leach, manuscripts.<br> +Thynnus dentatus. Fab. Syst. Piez. 231. 1.</p> +<p>128. Eumenes campaniformis. Fab. Syst. Piez. 287. 10.</p> +<p>129. Eumenes apicalis (n.s.) E. flava thoracis spatio inter +alas segmentique abdominalis secundi parte basali nigris, alis +flavis apice fuscis.</p> +<p>130. Centris bombylans. Fab. Syst. Piez. 358. 19.</p> +<h4>CLASS HAUSTELLATA.</h4> +<h4>Order LEPIDOPTERA.</h4> +<p>131. Papilio eurypilus. Linn. Syst. Nat. 2 page 754. 49. +Godart. Enc. Meth. Hist. Nat. 9 45. 61.</p> +<p>Obs. Captain King found an insect on the north coast of New +Holland, which, I think, can only be deemed a variety of P. +eurypilus, a species hitherto recorded as inhabiting Java and +Amboyna. This variety is distinguished from the euripilus of +Godart by several minute differences.</p> +<p>132. Papilio macleayanus. Godart, Enc. Meth. Hist. Nat. 9 47. +65.</p> +<p>133. Papilio sthenelus (n.s.) P. alis nigris flavo-maculatis +posticis dentatis fascia maculaque adjecta flavis, ocello anali +rufo lunulae caeruleae submisso.</p> +<p>Obs. This species is in New Holland what demoleus is in +Africa, and epius in India. It is even difficult to determine +whether the three may not be varieties of one species. If +varieties, however, they are certainly permanent according to the +above localities, and this species may be easily distinguished +from epius, which it most resembles, by the large yellow spot +near the middle of the superior margin of the upper wing. This +spot is divided into two in epius and demoleus. Moreover, the +band of the lower wing in P. sthenelus is only attended with one +small spot.</p> +<p>134. Papilio anactus (n.s.) P. alis nigro-fuscis, anticis +griseo-maculatis, inferis dentatis fascia alba extus dentata +lunula media nigra limbique nigri lunulis quinque caeruleis +ocellis tot rufis submissis.</p> +<p>Obs. This fine species is of the middle size, and seems to +have a relation both with P. epius and P. machaon. The vertex is +orange-coloured, with a black line in the middle. The two upper +wings are slightly dentated, the lower dentations being marked +with white spots. There are three grey spots in the middle of the +superior margin of the wing, of which the largest is the one +nearest to the body; on the outside of these are two parallel +rows of grey spots, the first range consisting of about nine +oblong spots unequal in size, and the outer range of eight +smaller, whitish, and round spots. The white band of the lower +wings, which are not tailed, has a black crescent-like spot in +the middle; and on the outside, two parallel rows of five spots, +the one blue and the other red, The emarginations of these wings +are fringed with white. The underside of this insect is like the +upper, except that the colours are more pronounced, and that +there are two round white spots on the outside of the white band +of the lower wings.</p> +<p>135. Papillo cressida. Godart, Enc. Meth. Hist. Nat. 9. 76. +145.</p> +<p>136. Papilio harmonia. Don. Ins. of New Holland.<br> +P. Harmonoides. Godart, Enc. Meth. Hist. Nat. 9 76. 146.</p> +<p>137. Pontia crokera (n.s.) P. alis integerrimis niveis anticis +apice punctoque nigris, posticis cinereo-submarginatis subtus +flavo-irroratis.<br> +P. crokera. Captain P.P. King, manuscripts.</p> +<p>Obs. This insect is of Godart's fifth size, and comes very +near to his Pieris nina. The wings are of a fine white colour, +particularly the upper. These have their summit black, and a +minute black point, near the middle. The under wings are without +any spots, but are bordered behind by a cinereous thread. The +underside of the upper wings have the costa and summit covered +with spots and minute incontinuous lines of a yellowish colour. +The underside of the lower wings are sulphureous, with very fine +undulating or rather incontinuous lines of a yellowish +colour.</p> +<p>The species has been named by Captain King, after John Wilson +Croker, Esquire, M.P., and first secretary to the Admiralty.</p> +<p>138. Pieris niseia (n.s.) P. alis albis limbo late nigro; +anticis macula media nigra limboque albo-trimaculato; posticis +subtus nigro-venosis limbi maculis luteo-notatis.</p> +<p>Obs. This insect comes very near to the P. teutonia of Godart +and Donovan, particularly in its underside. It is, however, +smaller than that insect. The upper wings are white, with a +posterior broad black subtriangular border, having two or three +white spots at the apex. These wings have a black spot near their +middle, which is also on the underside, but there communicates by +a transverse, short, and rather curved, black band, with a black +superior edging of the wing. In other respects the underside of +the superior wings is like the upper, except perhaps that it is +yellowish at the base. The lower wings have their upper side +white, with a broad black border. Their underside is strongly +veined with black, having the base and the middle of the outer +row of white spots in the posterior margin of the wing +yellowish.</p> +<p>139. Pieris scyllara (n.s.) P. alis integerrimis albis limbo +exteriori utrinque nigro: anticis elongato-trigonis maculis +apicalibus quatuor albis.</p> +<p>Obs. This species comes very near to P. lyncida of Godart. Its +wings are white above. The upper ones have their costa blackish, +and a triangular border at their extremity rather dentated on the +inside. On this black border is a transverse row of four or five +white spots, unequal in size. The lower wings have also a black +border with one white spot, and which is simply crenated on the +inside. The underside of the four wings scarcely differs from the +upper, except that the black borders above mentioned are in +general more pale, and those of the lower wings are broader than +on the upper side.</p> +<p>140. Pieris nysa. Fab. Syst. Ent. 3 195. 606.<br> +P. Eudora. Don. Ins. of New Holland.<br> +P. Nysa. Godart, Enc. Meth. Hist. Nat. 9 152. 118.<br> +P. Eudora. Godart, Enc. Meth. Hist. Nat. 9 152. 117 ?</p> +<p>Obs. On an inspection of the original Pieris nysa of Fab., in +the Banksian cabinet, I find it to be the same with the P. eudora +of Donovan, the only difference being that the under wings are +less cinereous on the upper side, and the upper wings have more +white at the extremity of the yellow spots at the base of their +undersides. These minute differences appear to be sexual. At all +events this is undoubtedly the P. eudora of Donovan, in his +Insects of New Holland. M. Godart, however, most erroneously +quotes another work of Donovan, namely, The Insects of India, and +gives an erroneous description, apparently from confounding some +Indian insect with the insect described by Donovan. Godart has +also erroneously altered the Fabrician description of P. nysa, +and thus added to the multitude of proofs which his laborious +work affords, that the continental entomologists have no means of +undertaking a complete description of species, without visiting +the extensive collections of London.</p> +<p>141. Pieris nigrina. Godart, Enc. Meth. Hist. Nat. 9 149. +108.</p> +<p>142. Pieris aganippe. Godart, Enc. Meth. H. Nat. 9 153. +121.</p> +<p>143. Pibris smilax. Don. Ins. of New Holland.<br> +P. Smilax. Godart, Enc. Meth. Hist. Nat. 9 136. 56.</p> +<p>Obs. As Godart here again cites Donovan's work on the Insects +of India, instead of his Insects of New Holland, I am inclined to +think that he never saw those works.</p> +<p>144. Pieris herla (n.s.) P. alis rotundatis integerrimis +flavis, anticis apice fuscis, posticis margine nigro-sublineatis +subtus testaceis atomis griseis aspersis.</p> +<p>Obs. This insect is larger than P. smilax, but resembles it +extremely in its upper side. The underside, however, is +different, as the extremity of the upper wings and the whole of +the under wings are of a fawn colour. The underside of the lower +wings is also sprinkled with some grey atoms, and marked +obscurely with a fuscous band under two points.</p> +<p>145. Euplaea chrysippus. Godart, Enc. Meth. H.N. 9 187.88.</p> +<p>Obs. Captain King has brought a variety of this insect from +New Holland, which only differs from the European specimen +figured by Hubner, in the row of white points round the edge of +the upper side of the lower wings being evanescent. This species +is one of those which have a great range of distribution, being +found in Naples, Egypt, Syria, India, Java, and New Holland.</p> +<p>146. Euplaea affinis. Godart. Enc. Meth. H. Nat. 9 182. +21.</p> +<p>147. Euplaea hamata (n.s.) E. abdomine supra nigro subtus +fusco alis repandis SUPRA atris; omnibus utrinque ad extimum +punctis ad basin maculis subbifidis virescenti-albis: subtus +anticarum apice posticarumque pagina omni, +olivaceo-fuscescentibus.</p> +<p>Obs. This insect comes so very near to the Euplaea limniace, +of Godart and Cramer, which is common on the Coromandel Coast as +well as in Java and Ceylon, that I can scarcely consider it as +any thing but a variety of that species. It differs, however, in +being constantly of a smaller size, in its abdomen being black, +and in the exterior row of white spots on the under wings not +extending much more than half way round the margin of these +wings. Captain King found this insect in surprising numbers on +various parts of the North-east Coast, particularly at Cape +Cleveland. See volume 1.</p> +<p>148. Danais tulliola. Fab. Ent. Syst. 3 page 41. 123.</p> +<p>Obs. I reserve the generic name of Danais for such of M. +Latreille's genus as have no pouches to the lower wings of their +males; and to the remainder I give the Fabrician generic name of +Euplaea.</p> +<p>149. Danais darchia, (n.s.) P. alis integris fuscis velutinis +caeruleo-micantibus, omnibus supra fascia maculari intra +punctorum seriem marginalem abbreviatam alba; anticis puncto albo +costali. Danais Darchia. Captain P.P. King MSS.</p> +<p>Obs. This is exactly the size of D. eleusine, to which it +appears to come very near. The upper side of the four wings is +brownish-black, having towards the margin an arched band of +violet-coloured white spots, of which the greatest is at the +extremity of the wing. There is also on the superior margin, +about the middle of the upper wing, a white point, and at its +inferior angle a marginal series of a few white points. The upper +side of the lower wings has an abbreviated series of marginal +points on the outside of an arched series of violet-coloured +whitish lunulae. The underside answers well to the description +given by Godart of the underside of his Danais eunice, except +that D. darchia has only one white point in the middle of the +upper wing.</p> +<p>This species bas been named by Captain King after his friend +Thomas Darch, Esquire, of the Admiralty.</p> +<p>150. Danais corinna (n.s.) P. alis integris fuscis velutinis +caeruleo-micantibus, anticis punctis quatuor costalibus, maculis +duabus angularibus et punctorum serie marginali albis, punctis +extimum versus majoribus; alis posticis punctorum serie marginali +et macularum longitudinalium fascia discoidali albis.</p> +<p>Obs. This species comes between the Danais cora of Godart and +his D. coreta. The underside differs in having the marginal +series of white points continued to the very tip of the upper +wings, while they have three other points in the disc. There are +also eight or nine similar white points between the base of the +lower wings and the band of longitudinal spots.</p> +<p>151. Nymphalis lassinassa. Godart. Enc. Meth. 9 395. 155.</p> +<p>152. Vanessa itea. Godart. Enc. Meth. 9 321. 57.</p> +<p>153. Vanessa cardui, var. Godart. Enc. Meth. 9 323. 62.</p> +<p>154. Satyrus banksia. Godart. Enc. Meth. 9 477, 3.</p> +<p>155. Satyrus abeona. Godart. Enc. Meth. 9 497. 72.</p> +<p>156. Satyrus merope. Godart. Enc. Meth. 9 500. 80.</p> +<p>157. Satyrus archemor. Godart. Enc. Meth. 9 500. 81.</p> +<p>158. Argynnis niphe. Godart. Enc. Meth. 9 261. 17.</p> +<p>159. Argynnis tephnia. Godart. Enc. Meth. 9 262. 18.</p> +<p>160. Acrea andromacha. Fab. Ent. Syst. 3 182. 564.<br> +A. entoria. Godart. Enc. Meth. 9.</p> +<p>Obs. The original insect of Fabricius is in the Banksian +cabinet, and affords further cause of regret, that the article +"Papillon," of the Encyclopedie Methodique, should have been +undertaken by a person who had not studied the classical +collections that exist out of Paris. M. Godart describes this +insect as a new species, under the name of Entoria, and makes it +an inhabitant of the West Coast of Africa.</p> +<p>161. Cethosia penthesilea. Godart. Enc. Meth. 9 248. 13.</p> +<p>Obs. This species bas hitherto been described only as a native +of Java, but Captain King found several specimens of a variety of +it on the North Coast of New Holland.</p> +<p>162. Hesperia rafflesia, (n.s.) H. atra alis integerrimis; +anticis fascia maculari abbreviata sulphurea atomisque apicem +versus subviridibus aspersis, posticis rotundatis fascia basali +ovali sulphurea abbreviata, caudata corporis fascia media +sulphurea ano palpisque vivide rufis.</p> +<p>Obs. This beautiful species I have named after Sir Stamford +Raffles, to whose scientific ardour and indefatigable exertions +in Java and Sumatra, every Naturalist must feel himself +indebted.</p> +<p>The undersides of the wings are spotted like the upper, the +only difference being, that round the whole disc of the four +wings there runs a band of ashy-green atoms. The antennae and +feet are black, and the breast whitish. The vivid colour of the +yellow spots on the velvety black of the wings distinguish it at +once from every known species.</p> +<p>163. Urania orontes. Godart. Enc. Meth. 9 710. 4. Var. alis +atro-viridibus, anticis fasciis duabus posticis cupreo-viridibus, +unica lata.</p> +<p>Obs. This beautiful variety of an insect hitherto described as +peculiar to Java and Amboyna was found in immense numbers, +flitting among a grove of Pandanus trees, growing on the banks of +a stream near the extremity of Cape Grafton, upon the North-east +Coast of New Holland. See volume 2.</p> +<p>164. Agarista agricola. Don. Ins. of New Holland.<br> +Agarista picta. Leach, Zool. Misc. volume 1 table 15<br> +-- Godart. Enc. Meth. 9 803. 2.</p> +<p>Obs. As Donovan described and figured this insect many years +before Dr. Leach, his name has the right of priority.</p> +<p>165. Sphinx latreillii (n.s.) S. alis integris; superis +griseo-flavescentibus atomis brunneis aspersis, punctis duobus +nigris basalibus et fasciis quatuor obscuris subapicalibus, +inferis griseo-nigrescentibus apicem versos subflavescentibus. +Dielophila Latreillii. De Cerisy manuscripts.</p> +<p>Obs. The underside of the four wings is very pale, of a +yellowish-gray colour, traversed by a line of blackish points, +which indeed are dispersed very generally over the whole surface. +The disk of the upper wings is rather blacker than the rest. The +head and thorax are of the colour of the wings, their sides and +the conical abdomen being rather lighter. The antennae are +ciliated, whitish above, and brownish beneath.</p> +<p>166. Sphinx godarti (n.s.) S. abdomine griseo linea media +longitudinali guttulisque lateralibus nigrescentibus, alis +integris; superis griseo-nigrescentibus maculis irregularibus +nigris punctoque medio albo, inferis griseo-flavescentibus +fasciis tribus nigris. Dielophila Godarti. De Cerisy +manuscripts.</p> +<p>Obs. All the wings are of a gray colour beneath, the fringe +being alternately white and brown. The thorax is gray, with a +narrow, tawny, transverse mark, a lateral white fascia, two black +curved marks, and on the hinder part a black spot. The body +beneath is of a whitish colour.</p> +<p>167. Macroglossum kingii (n.s.) M. capite thoraceque +viridibus, abdomine nigro flavoque variegato, alis integris +hyalinis subtus ad originem flavis, superis basin versus brunneis +pilis viridescentibus obtectis costa limboque posteriori +brunneis, inferis ad originem limbumque internum +brunneo-viridescentibus.<br> +Macroglossum kingii. De Cerisy manuscripts.</p> +<p>Obs. The antennae of this beautiful species are black, very +slender at the base, and thick towards the extremity. The palpi +are greenish above and white beneath. The breast is white in the +middle, and yellow at the sides. The two first segments of the +abdomen are, on the upper side, gray in the middle, and yellow on +the sides; the third segment is black, with a part of the +anterior edge yellowish towards the side; the fourth segment is +entirely black, having only a white fringe on its anterior edge; +the fifth segment is of an orange yellow, with the middle black; +the sixth segment is entirely yellow, and the whole abdomen is +terminated by a pencil of hairs, which are yellow at their base, +and black at the extremity. The thighs are whitish, with the +tibiae and tarsi yellow.</p> +<p>168. Cossus nebulosus. Don. Insects of New Holland.</p> +<p>169. Euprepia crokeri (n.s.) E. alba antennis fuscis, cavite +nigro bipunctato, thorace linea transversa miniata antice punctis +quatuor et postice duodecim nigris, alis testaceo-fuscis, superis +ad basin albis punctis axillaribus tribus atris maculisque duabus +mediis hyalinis, abdomine supra miniato subtus albo lateribus +duplici serie punctorum nigrorum notatis, pedibus chermesinis. +Euprepia crokeri. Captain P.P. King manuscripts.</p> +<p>Obs. This lovely insect, of which two specimens were taken at +sea, has been named by Captain King after John Wilson Croker, +Esquire, M.P., and First Secretary of the Admiralty.</p> +<p>170. Noctua cyathina (n.s.) N. fusco-grisea subtus pallidior, +alis superis linea transversa fusca sub-undata aliisque +marginalibus obscuris fascia apicem versus fulva undata intus +lineola fusca terminata, ad marginem externum dilatata, limbo +punctorum serie vix marginato, subtus fascia alba, posteris supra +apicem versus nigris fascia media maculisque tribus marginalibus +albis, subtus macula marginali pallidiori margine nigro +punctato.</p> +<h4>Order HOMOPTERA.</h4> +<p>171. Cicada australasiae. Don. Ins. of New Holland.</p> +<p>172. Cicada zonalis (n.s.) C. capite thoraceque flavis, hoc +macularum fascia nigrarum punctisque posticis variegato, abdomine +atro fascia antica rubra analibusque tribus albis, lamellis +basalibus subviridibus, elytris hyalinis costis viridibus +pedibusque testaceis.</p> +<h4>Order HEMIPTERA.</h4> +<p>173. Scutellera banksii. Don. Ins. of New Holland.</p> +<p>Obs. This insect varies so much in colour, that I almost think +it to be the same species with the following S. cyanipes, +Fab.</p> +<p>174. Scutellera cyanipes.<br> +Tetyra cyanipes. Fab. Syst. Rhyng. 133. 23.</p> +<p>175. Scutellera imperialis.<br> +Tetyra imperialis. Fab. Syst. Rhyng. 128. 1.</p> +<p>176. Scutellera corallifera (n.s.) S. supra cyanea linea +verticali nigra thorace antice aurato, scutello ad basin macula +transversa rubra, corpore subtus nigro-cyaneo pectoris lateribus +auratis abdominis lateribus rubris anoque viridi, pedibus rubris +tibiis tarsisque nigro-cyaneis.</p> +<p>177. Scutellera pagana.<br> +Tetyra pagana. Fab. Syst. Rhyng. 134. 29.</p> +<p>178. Pentatoma caelebs.<br> +Cimex caelebs. Fab. Ent. Syst. 4 111. 119.</p> +<p>179. Pentatoma elegans.<br> +Cimex elegans. Don. Ins. of New Holland.</p> +<p>180. Lygaeus regalis (n.s.) L. capite rubro, antennis nigris, +thorace flavo-marginato antice lineis alba nigraque transverse +notato, scutello nigro, elytris flavis macula media parteque +apicali membranacea nigris, corpore subtus fulvo lateribus +albo-lineatis pedibus nigro-brunneis.</p> +<p>Order DIPTERA.</p> +<p>181. Stratiomys hunteri (n.s.) S. nigro-brunnea tomentosa, +post-scutello flavo, abdomine supra nigro maculis utrinque basin +versus duabus viridibus, subtus viridi, pedibus flavis. +Stratiomys hunteri. Captain P.P. King manuscripts.</p> +<p>Obs. This insect has been named by Captain King after Mr. +James Hunter, the surgeon of the Mermaid.</p> +<p>182. Asilus inglorius (n.s.) A. obscuro-luteus abdomine ad +basin pilis flavis hirsuto, alis flavo-hyalinis apice +obscurioribus, pedibus rufis geniculis tarsisque nigris.</p> +<p>183. Tabanus guttatus. Don. Ins. of New Holland.</p> +<p>184. Tabanus cinerescens (n.s.) T. cinereo-ferrugineus subtus +albescens, alis hyalinis basin versus subluteis, abdomine linea +media maculisque quatuor utrinque cinereis.</p> +<p>185. Pangonia roei. (n.s.) P. rostro brevi tota ferruginea +nitida, abdomine subtus testaceo alis fulvo-hyalinis apice +margineque exteriori saturatioribus fasciisque duabus mediis +obscuris marginalibus.<br> +Pangonia roei. Captain P.P. King manuscripts.</p> +<p>Obs. This insect has been named after Lieutenant John S. Roe, +R.N.; one of the assistant-surveyors of the expedition.</p> +<p>186. Anthrax prae-argentatus (n.s.) A. supra niger pilis +flavescentibus tomentosus subtus albidus, ore albo, pedibus +nigris, alis brunneo-hyalinis margine exteriori saturatioribus +apice albis.</p> +<p>187. Anthrax bombyliformis (n.s.) A. nigro-bmnneus +post-scutello ferrugineo, abdomine supra ad basin fulvo apice +albo fasciaque media fusca, subtus albo pedibus atro-brunneis +alis hyalinis basi margineque exteriori fuscis maculisque aliquot +discoidalibus.</p> +<p>188. Musca splendida. Don. Ins. of New Holland.</p> +<p>Class ARACHNIDA.</p> +<p>189. Nephila cunninghamii (n.s.) N. thorace sericeo cinereo, +geniculis incrassatis pedibus nigro-fulvis, tibiarum primo et +postremo pari flavo-annulatis.<br> +Nephila cunninghamii. Captain P.P. King manuscripts.</p> +<p>Named after Mr. Allan Cunningham, the botanist of the +expedition.</p> +<p>Obs. The genus Nephila has been very properly separated from +Epeira by Dr. Leach in the Zoological Miscellany.</p> +<p>190. Uloborus canus (n.s.) U. albescens thorace convexo, pedum +pari secundo longiori, femoribus nigro-punctatis.</p> +<p>191. Linyphia deplanata (n.s.) L. rufo-testacea mandibulis +pedibusque apicem versus nigris, thorace sub-circulari plano, +pedum secundo pari longiori.</p> +<p>Obs. The principal difference of this spider from the genus +Linyphia, as characterized by Latreille, consists in the +circumstance of the two largest of the four middle eyes being the +posterior ones. The palpi of the male are in this species each +provided with a spiral screw resembling the tendril of a +vine.</p> +<p>192. Thomisus morbillosus (n.s.) T. pedibus quatuor primis +longioribus, cinereus thorace macula postica sublunari magna +viridifusca, pedibus sub-geminatim fusco maculatis.</p> +<hr align="center" width="20%"> +<h3>CIRRIPEDES.</h3> +<p>Anatifera sulcata. Gray, Ann. Phil. 1825.<br> +Pentalasmis sulcata, Leach.<br> +Montague, Test. Brit.</p> +<hr align="center" width="20%"> +<h3>RADIATA.</h3> +<h4>CENTRONIA.</h4> +<p>1. Echinus ovum ? Peron and Lesueur. Lam. Hist. 3 48.</p> +<p>This specimen, presented to the Museum, agrees very well with +the short description given by Lamarck of this species.</p> +<p>2. Echinus variolaris. Lam. Hist. 3 47.</p> +<p>This specimen, agreeing very well with the description of one +found by Peron, is very remarkable; and has the larger area +agrulate and ornamented with two rows of white tubercles, nearly +as large as those in the genus Cidaris; the pores in the upper +part are not perforated, and are placed in segments of circles +round small tubercles.</p> +<p>3. Echinometra lucunter.<br> +Echinus lucunter. Gmel. Sys. Nat. 1 3176.<br> +Icon. Ency. Method. t. 134. f. 3, 4, 7.</p> +<h4>ANOMALIA.</h4> +<p>Physalia megalista ? Peron Voyage 1 Lam. Hist. 2 481.<br> +Icon. Peron, Voyage Atlas, t. 29. f. 1.</p> +<p>No specimen of this animal was preserved, but Captain King +observes, that the animal he caught, of which he made a drawing, +differed from Lesueur's figure of P. megalista, in being of +smaller size, and with fewer tints; the colour of the tentacula +was a brighter purple tipped with yellow globules, and the crest +of a greenish hue, but the general colour of the animal was +purple. It measured from three-quarters to one inch in length. +Captain King considered it to be a variety of P. megalista.</p> +<p>Porpita gigantea. Peron, Voyage 2. Lam. Hist. 2 485. Icon. +Peron and Lesueur, Atlas, t. 31. f. 6.</p> +<p>A very beautiful and accurate drawing of this curious animal +was made by Lieutenant Roe. M. Lesueur's figure is also very +correctly drawn.</p> +<h3>ACRITA.</h3> +<h4>ZOOPHYTA.</h4> +<p>1. Tubipora musica. Gmel. Syst. Nat. 1 3753. Lam. Hist. 2 +209.<br> +Icon. Seba. Mus. 3 t. 110. f. 8, 9. Soland. and Ellis. t. 27.</p> +<p>According to Peron, the animals of this coral are furnished +with green-fringed tentacula.</p> +<p>2. Pavonia lactuca, Lam. Hist. 2 239.<br> +Madrepora lactuca, Pallas, Zooph. 289.<br> +Icon. Soland, and Ellis, t. 44.</p> +<p>3. Explanaria mesenterina, Lam. Hist. il. 255.<br> +Madrepora cinerascens, Soland. and Ellis.<br> +Icon. Soland. and Ellis, Number 26. t. 43.</p> +<p>4. Agaricia ampliata, Lam. Hist. 2 243.<br> +Madrepora ampliata, Soland. and Ellis, 157.<br> +Icon. Soland. and Ellis, t. 41. f. 1, 2.</p> +<p>5. Fungia agariciformis, Lam. Hist. 2 236.<br> +Madrepora fungites, Gmel. Syst. Nat. 1 3757.<br> +Icon. Soland. and Ellis, page 149. t. 58. f. 5, 6.</p> +<p>6. Fungia limacina, Lam. Hist. 2 237.<br> +Madrepora pileus, Gmel. Syst. Nat. 1 3758.<br> +Icon. Soland. and Ellis, t. 45. Seba. Mus. 3 t. 111. f. 3, 5.</p> +<p>7. Fungia compressa, Lam. Hist. 2 235.</p> +<p>8. Caryophillia ? fastigiata, Lam. Hist. 2 228.<br> +Madrepora fastigiata, Gmel. Syst. Nat. 1 3777.<br> +Icon. Soland. and Ellis, t. 33. Esp. Suppl. t. 82.</p> +<p>9. Porites subdigitata, Lam. Hist. 2 271. Icon. --</p> +<p>10. Porites clavaria, Lam. Hist. 2 270.<br> +Madrepora porites, Gmel. Syst. Nat. 1 3774.<br> +Icon. Soland. and Ellis, t. 47. f. 1.</p> +<p>11. Astrea stellulata ? Lam. Hist. 2 261.<br> +Madrepora stellulata, Soland. and Ellis, page 165.<br> +Icon. Soland. and Ellis. t. 53. f. 3, 4.</p> +<p>Obs. The stars in this specimen are more numerous, and do not +perforate.</p> +<p>12. Madrepora prolifera. Lam. Hist. 2 281.<br> +Madrepora muricata, Gmel. Syst. 1 3775.<br> +Icon. Soland. and Ellis, t. 57.</p> +<p>13. Madrepora abrotanoides, Lam. Hist. 2 280.<br> +Madrepora muricata, Gmel. Sys. Nat. 1 3775.<br> +Icon. Soland. and Ellis, t. 57.</p> +<p>14. Seriatopora subulata, Lam. Hist. 2 282.<br> +Madrepora seriata, Pallas. Zooph. p 336.<br> +Madrepora lineata, Esper. Suppl. 1 t. 19.<br> +Icon. Soland. and Ellis, t. 31. f. 1. 2.</p> +<p>15. Madrepora laxa (?) Lam. Hist. 2 280.</p> +<p>16. Madrepora plantaginea (?) Lam. Hist. 2 279.<br> +Icon. Esper. Suppl. 1 t. 54.</p> +<p>17. Madrepora corymbosa, Lam. Hist. 2 279.</p> +<p>18. Madrepora pocillifera, Lam. Hist. 2 280.</p> +<p>19. Gorgonia flabellum, Gmel. Syst. Nat. 1 3809.<br> +Flabellum Veneris, Ellis, Corall. page 76.<br> +Icon. Soland. and Ellis, t. 26. f. A.</p> +<p>20. Galaxaria cylindrica, Lamouroux.<br> +Corallina cylindrica, Soland. and Ellis, 114.<br> +Icon. Soland. and Ellis, t. 22. f. 4.</p> +<p>21. Spongia muricina (?) Lam. Hist. 2 369. Number 74.<br> +Icon. Seba. Mus. 3 t. 97. f. 2.</p> +<p>22. Spongia perfoliata, Lam. Hist. 2 370. Number 78.<br> +Icon. --</p> +<p>23. Spongia basta, Pallas. Zooph. 379. Lam. Hist. 2 371. +Number 82.<br> +Icon. -- Esper. 2 t. 25.</p> +<p>24. Spongia alcicornis, Esper. Lam. Hist. 2 380. Number +l26.<br> +Icon. -- Esper. 2 page 248. t. 28.</p> +<p>25. Spongia spiculifera ? Lam. Hist. 2 376. Number 106.<br> +Icon. --</p> +<p>Three or four other species of Spongia were brought home, +which I have not been able to identify with all of Lamarck's +descriptions, or with any figures; but as this author has +described many species from the collection of Peron and Lesueur, +which have not hitherto been figured, I have not considered them +as new, until I have had an opportunity of examining more New +Holland species, and of seeing those described by Lamarck.</p> +<hr align="center" width="20%"> +<h3>MOLLUSCA.</h3> +<p align="center">BY JOHN EDWARD GRAY, ESQUIRE, F.G.S.</p> +<h4>1. CONCHOPHORA.</h4> +<p>1. Solenomya australis.<br> +Solemya Australis, Lam. Hist. 5 489.<br> +Mya marginipectinata, Peron and Lesueur</p> +<p>2. Mactra abbreviata ? Lam. Hist. 5 477. n. 20.<br> +Icon. --</p> +<p>This collection contains a considerable number of specimens of +a shell agreeing with the short specific character given by +Lamarck of the above; but as it has not been figured, I have +referred to it with a mark of doubt. The shells are rather solid, +white, or white variegated with purple, with numerous concentric +wrinkles, which are more distinct nearer the margin; the umbones, +covered with a thin pale periostraca, nearly smooth and polished, +with a small purple spot, the inside white, with the disk and +posterior slope purple; the anterior and posterior slopes +distinct, the lunule and escutcheon deeply and distinctly +sulcated; length fourteen-tenths of an inch; height one inch</p> +<p>3. Mactra ovalina, Lam. Hist. 5 477</p> +<p>This shell is nearly of the same shape as the last, but the +anterior slope is rounded and circumscribed, and the posterior +only marked by a raised line in the periostraca. The shell is +thin, white; with a pale brown and deeply grooved escutcheon</p> +<p>4. Solen truncatus, Wood. Conch.<br> +Solen ceylonensis, Leach, Zool. Misc. 1 22. table 7.<br> +Solen vagina, b. Lam. Hist. 5 451.<br> +Icon. Wood. Conch. t. 26. f. 3. 4. Ency. Method. t. 222. f. 1</p> +<p>5. Cardium tenuicostatum, Lam. Hist. 6 5.<br> +Icon. --</p> +<p>The shell when perfect is white, with rose-coloured umbones; +the rose colour is often extended down the centre of the shell, +forming concentric zones</p> +<p>6. Lucina divaricata, Lam. Hist. 5 541.<br> +Tellina divaricata, Gmel. Sys. Nat. 1 3241.<br> +Icon. Chemn. Conch. 6 134. t. 13. f. 129</p> +<p>7. Venerupis galactites, nob.<br> +Venus galactites, Lam. Hist. 5 599.<br> +Icon. --</p> +<p>The fact of Lamarck having placed in the genus Venus this +shell, which a modern conchologist has considered as a variety of +Venerupis perforans, shows the very great affinity that exists +between those genera</p> +<p>8. Venus flammiculata ? Lam. Hist. 5 605.<br> +Icon. --</p> +<p>This shell is pale yellowish, with irregular, large, distinct, +concentric ridges, and distinctly radiated striae; the umbones +smooth, polished, orange-yellow; the lozenge lanceolate, purple; +the inside golden-yellow; the anterior and posterior dorsal +margins purple</p> +<p>9. Venus tessellata (n.s.)<br> +Testa ovato-oblonga, albida, lineis purpureis angulatis picta; +sulcis concentricis, ad latus posteriorem lamellatis; marginibus +integerrimis.<br> +Icon. --</p> +<p>Shell ovate-oblong, white, polished, with rows of square +purple spots, forming regular lines, with the points directed +toward the back of the shell; covered with many distinct, nearly +equal, concentric, smooth ridges; the front part of the ridges +somewhat elevated, thin, hinder part distinctly lamellar and much +elevated: the lunule subulate, lanceolate; the edge quite entire; +umbones with a purple spot; inside white, except on the anterior +and posterior dorsal edges, which are purple; length +eight-tenths, height six-tenths of an inch</p> +<p>There are two other specimens of this shell in the Museum +which do not agree with any that Lamarck describes; one of these +being fourteen-tenths of an inch long, and one inch high, is +double the size of Captain King's specimen; its habitation is not +marked, but the other specimen is from Ceylon</p> +<p>10. Cytherea kingii (n.s.)<br> +Testa ovato-cordata, tumida, albida, concentrice substriata, +radiata, radiis flavicantibus; lunula lanceolato-cordata; intus +albida</p> +<p>Shell ovate, heart-shaped, white or pale brown, with darker +brown rays, each formed of several narrow lines, the umbones +white, the edge quite entire; the lunule lanceolate heart-shaped, +obscurely defined, the centre rather prominent; inside white, the +hinge margin rather broad</p> +<p>This shell is very like Cytherea loeta, but differs from it in +its markings, as well as its outline, which is more orbicular. +The specimen given to the Museum by Captain King, is one inch +long, and eight-tenths of an inch high; but there is another +specimen in the collection, from the Tankerville cabinet (Number +288) which is twice that size</p> +<p>11. Cytherea gibba.<br> +Cytherea gibbia, Lam. Hist. 5 577.<br> +Icon. Chemn. 7 t. 39. f. 415. 416</p> +<p>12. Petricola rubra ? Cardium rubrum ? Montague</p> +<p>This shell agrees in general form, teeth, and colour, with the +Cardium rubrum of Montagu, but it is larger. It was found +imbedded in the seaweed and spongy-like substance that covers the +Tridacna squamosa</p> +<p>13. Chama limbula, Lam. Hist. 6 95</p> +<p>This shell may, perhaps, be a variety of Chama gryphoides</p> +<p>14. Tridacna gigas, Lam. Hist. 6 pt. 1. 105.<br> +Chama Gigas, Gmel. Syst. Nat. 1 3299.<br> +Icon. Chemn. 7 t. 49. f. 495. Ency. Meth. plate 235. f. 1</p> +<p>15. Pectunculus radians ? Lam. Hist. 6 54</p> +<p>16. Arca scapha, Lam. Hist. 6 42.<br> +Icon. Chemn. 7 201. t. 55. f. 548. Ency. Meth. plate 306. f. 1. +a, b</p> +<p>17. Mytilus erosus, Lam. Hist. 6 pt. 1 120</p> +<p>This shell was described by Lamarck from some New Holland +specimens, that were probably collected by Peron in Baudin's +voyage. It is remarkable for being very thick and solid, and of a +fine dark colour, with only a narrow white band on the anterior +basal edge. The edge is crenated, and the muscular impressions +are very distinct, and raised above the surface, particularly +that on the anterior valve, which is both pellucid and +tubercular</p> +<p>18. Modiola (Tulipa ?) australis, Nob.<br> +Modiola tulipa, var. 1. Lam. Hist. 6 pt. 1 111</p> +<p>This Australian species will most probably prove to be +distinct from the American kind; but the specimen before me does +not afford sufficient materials to separate it, since there is +only one water-worn valve in the collection. It is not so +distinctly rayed as M. tulipa, and the inside is entirely of a +brilliant pearly purple, except near the anterior basal edge</p> +<p>19. Lithophagus caudatus, nob.<br> +Modiola caudigera, Lam. Hist. 6 pt. 1 116.<br> +Icon. Ency. Meth. plate 221. f. 8. a, b</p> +<p>20. Meleagrina albida, var. a. Lam. Hist. 6 pt. 1 152</p> +<p>This appears to be a distinct species from those found in the +Gulf of Mexico and the West Indies, but the difference is not +easy to describe. The specimens before me, which are small, +differ materially from some of the same size among the American +species. The outside is of a dull greenish-purple colour, with a +few distant membranaceous laminae which are only slightly lobed, +and not extended into long processes like those of Avicula +radiata (Zool. Misc. 1. t. 43.) which is the young of the +American kind. The internal pearly coat has a bright yellow +tinge</p> +<p>21. Spondylus radians ? Lam. Hist. 6 pt. 1 192.<br> +Icon. Chemn. Conch. 7 t. 45. f. 469. 470. Ency. Meth. plate 191. +f. 5.</p> +<p>22. Pecten maximus ? Lam. Hist. 6 pt. 1 163.<br> +Ostrea maxima, Gmel. Syst. Nat. 1 3315.<br> +Icon. Chemn. Conch. 7 t. 60. f. 585. Ency. Meth. plate 209. f. 1. +a, b.</p> +<p>The shell before me is probably distinct from the above +species, but is too much worn down to be separated from it; in +its present state it seems to agree tolerably well with the +species to which it has been referred.</p> +<p>23. Pecten asperrimus, Lam. Hist. 6 pt. 1 174.</p> +<p>This beautiful species was originally found by MM. Peron and +Lesueur on the coast of Van Diemen's Land.</p> +<p>24. Lima minuta (n.s.)</p> +<p>Testa ovato-oblonga valde tumida clausa radiatim costata, +costis transverse costato-striatis, auriculis minutis, margine +crenato.</p> +<p>This shell, which was brought up by the deep sea +sounding-lead, being only one-sixth of an inch long, and +one-fourth high, is the smallest species of the genus. It is +white, ovate, oblong, turned and closed at the ends; the surface +is deeply radiately ribbed; the ribs are concentrically +rib-striated, which gives their sides a denticulated appearance; +the edge is crenulated, and the umbones are acute, a small +distance apart, and nearly in the centre of the hinge margin, +which is straight.</p> +<p>25. Pinna dolabrata, Lam. Hist. 6 pt. 1 133.<br> +Pinna bicolor, Chemn. Conch. Cab. t. 90. f. 234.<br> +Icon. Chemn. 8 t. 90. f. 780 ?</p> +<p>The shell, figured by Chemnitz, appears to be a variety of +this species with the anterior end uncurved, which has most +probably been caused by some injury on the anterior basal +edge.</p> +<p>The species is peculiar for its yellow pearly internal coat, +and purplish rays.</p> +<h3>2. COCHLEOPHORA.</h3> +<p>26. Trochus caerulescens. Lam. Hist. 7 18.<br> +Icon. Ency. Meth. plate 444. f. 2. a, b.<br> +Inhab. South-west Coast.</p> +<p>Lamarck describes this shell from a specimen found by +Peron.</p> +<p>27. Trochus noduliferus, Lam. Hist. 7 18.</p> +<p>28. Monodonta conica (n.s.)</p> +<p>Testa conica, acuta, imperforata, spiraliter striflto-costata, +rufa; costis subtuberculatis, albo-nigro-articulatis; apertura +sulcata.<br> +Inhab. -- Mus. Brit.</p> +<p>Shell conical, axis longer than the diameter, the whorl +flattened with six spiral raised substriae, which are +transversely divided into blackish purple beads with white +interspaces, the apex rather acute; the base, rather convex, axis +imperforated; the aperture subquadrangular, inside furrowed; the +base of the columella lip with a prominent tooth and distinct +groove behind it, the upper part rugose; axis eight-twelfths, +diameter six-twelfths of an inch. This shell does not appear to +be uncommon on the coast of Australia.</p> +<p>29. Monodonta uranulata (n.s.)</p> +<p>Testa depresso-conica, umbilicata, purpurea, albomarmorata, +spiraliter papillata; papillis quadri-seriatis, umbilico laevi; +infima facie papillata, apertura sulcata.</p> +<p>Inhab. Mus. Brit.</p> +<p>Shell rather depressed, conical, purple variegated with white, +generally concentrically wrinkled, and ornamented with granulated +spiral ribs, the ribs of the upper part of the last, and of all +the other whorls rather distant, and forming four series; those +of the under part rather closer, and smaller. The axis +unbilicated, smooth, the aperture roundish, the outer lips +furrowed, the columella lip smooth with a groove at its base, +axis four-twelfths, diameter five-twelfths of an inch.</p> +<p>30. Monodonta denticulata (n.s.)<br> +Testa depresso-conica, umbilicata, rufa, nigro punctata, +spiraliter sulcata, subgranulata, umbilico extus crenato.</p> +<p>Inhab. -- Mus. Brit.</p> +<p>Shell depressed, conical, pale reddish, ornamented with rows +of white and brown spots, spirally grooved, ribs slightly +granulated; the sutures distinct, impressed, the lower part of +the last whorl nearly smooth, the umbilicus white, smooth inside, +the edge furnished with a series of granules. The mouth +subquadrangular, outer lip crenulated at the edge, the columella +lip smooth, with a large tooth at the inside, and a little +roughness on the outer side; axis three-tenths, diameter +five-twelfths of an inch.</p> +<p>31. Monodonta constricta, Lam. Hist. 7 36.</p> +<p>32. Monodonta rudis (n.s.)</p> +<p>Testa ovato-conica imperforata ulbido-purpurea rudis crassa, +labro duplicato, extus albido viridi, intus subsulcato, albo.</p> +<p>Inhab. -- Mus. Brit.</p> +<p>Shell ovate, conical, imperfurated, rough, pearly, +concentrically striated, whitish-brown; when worn or where +eroded, purple; the whorls convex, suture distinct, sometimes +occupying an impressed line on the lower whorl; the base rather +convex, the aperture roundish, the axis (imperforate) covered +with a white callus, which leaves a slight concavity over its +end; the outer lip of three colours, the outer part purple or +green and white, the middle pearly, and the inner opaque, white, +and furrowed; the surface of the lower part of the last whorl is +frequently worn away just opposite the mouth, so as to leave a +purple spot.</p> +<p>33. Rissoa clathrata (n.s.)</p> +<p>Testa subglobosa, subimperforata, alba, solida, spiraliter et +concentrice costata; apertura suborbiculari, sutura impressa.</p> +<p>Shell nearly globular, spire conical, upper whorls with three, +lower with seven distinct, large, rather separate, much raised, +spiral ribs, and numerous acute transverse ribs, which form an +acute tubercle where it crosses the spiral ridges, the suture +deeply impressed, very distinct, the aperture nearly orbicular, +the outer lip denticulated on its outer edge, inner lip smooth, +column without any perforation, only a slight linear cavity +behind the inner lip, axis and diameter each one-sixth of an +inch.</p> +<p>This shell is allied to Littorina muricata (Turbo muricata, +Lin.) in its general form and the shape of its umbilicus, but is +white and ribbed like Rissoa cimex (Turbo cimex, Lin.) R. +calathriscus, the Turbo calathriscus of Montague.</p> +<p>34. Solarium biangulatum (n.s.)</p> +<p>Testa orbiculato-conica subdepressa albida spiraliter +sub-striata rufo variegata, anfractibus biangulatis supra planis +infra convexis, umbilico pervio edentulo.</p> +<p>Shell orbicular conical; spire rather depressed; whorls five +spirally striated; upper part flattened, expanded, white with +numerous diverging red cross lines; centre flat, nearly at right +angles with the upper edge, white, with a convex thread-like rib +round its base, which is distantly articulated; base of the +whorls convex, red, punctured and variegated with white; axis +conical, concave, white, smooth at the commencement; aperture +subquadrangular; inside pearly, inner lip with an obscure tooth +at the end of the umbilicus; axis one-fourth, diameter one-third, +of an inch.</p> +<p>35. Turbo setosus, Gmel. Sys. Nat. 3594. Lam. Hist. 7 42.<br> +Icon. Chemn. 5 t. 181. f. 1795, 1796.</p> +<p>36. Turbo torquatus, Gmel. 3597. Lam. Hist. 7 40.<br> +Icon. Chemn. 10 293. figure 24. f. A. B.</p> +<p>37. Phasianella varia, Lam. Ency. Meth. plate 449. f. 1. a. b. +c.<br> +Phasianella bulimoides, Lam. Hist. 7 52.<br> +Buccinum Australe, Gmel. Syst. Nat. 1 3490.<br> +Icon. Chemn. 9 t. 120. f. 1033, 1034.</p> +<p>38. Phasianella pulchra (n.s.)</p> +<p>Testa minuta oblique conica tenuis pellucida linea albida +opaca et fasciis coccineis ornata, anfractibus valde +convexis.</p> +<p>Shell minute, obliquely conical, thin, pellucid, variegated +with spiral opaque white intercepted striae and several +transverse scarlet bands formed of oblique lines; axis, +imperforated, one-sixth, diameter one-eighth, of an inch.</p> +<p>This shell is somewhat like P. pullus, Turbo pullus of +Montague, but the whorls are more convex, and it is rather +differently marked.</p> +<p>39. Scalaria australis, Lam. Hist. 6 pt. 2. 228.<br> +Icon. --</p> +<p>40. Scalaria tenuis (n.s.)</p> +<p>Testa conica umbillcata tenuis pellucida albida unifasciata, +costis albis tenuibus ereberrimis parum elevatis laevibus, +anfractibus contiguis.</p> +<p>Shell conical, thin, pellucid, whitish-brown, with a narrow +central spiral brown band; whorls contiguous, convex, smooth, +with numerous close oblique slightly raised, thin, simple-edged +cross ribs; axis umbilicated; umbilicus narrow; mouth small, +ovate, orbicular; axis three-eighths, diameter one-fourth of an +inch.</p> +<p>This shell is most like Scalaria principalis, nob. Turbo +principalis of Pallas, Chemn. 11 t. 195, f. 1876, 1877. The shell +before me is most probably a young specimen.</p> +<p>41. Delphinula laciniata, Lam. Hist. 6 pt. 2. 230.<br> +Turbo Delphinus, Gmel. Syst. Nat. 1 3599.<br> +Icon. Lister. Conch. t. 608. f. 45.</p> +<p>This shell was found at low water upon the Coral Reefs, in the +entrance of Prince Regent's River, on the North-west Coast.</p> +<p>42. Nerita atrata, Lam. Hist. 6 pt. 2. 191.<br> +Icon. Chemn. Conch. 5 t. 190. f. 1954, 1955.</p> +<p>43. Nerita textilis, Gmelin. Syst. Nat. 3683.<br> +Icon. Chemn. 5 190, f. 1944, 1945.</p> +<p>44. Natica mamilla, Lam. Hist. 6 pt. 2. 197.<br> +Nerita mamilla, Gmel. Syst. Nat. 3672.<br> +Icon. Lister Conch. t. 571. f. 22. Enc. Meth. plate 453. f. 5. a. +b.</p> +<p>45. Natica alba, n.<br> +Icon. Chemn. 5 t. 189. f. 1922. 1923.</p> +<p>46. Natica conica, Lam. Hist. 6 pt. 2. 198.<br> +Icon. Chemn. 5 t. 189. f. 1930. 1931.</p> +<p>47. Littorina australis (n.s.)</p> +<p>Testa ovata, conica fulva rudis spiraliter striata sulcata, +spira acuta, fauce livida.</p> +<p>Shell ovate, conical, fulvous-brown, rough, with numerous +impressed spiral lines; the spire acute, the whorls rather +convex, last slightly angular, the columella lip purplish-brown; +axis solid, with a lunate concavity behind the usual situation of +the umbilicus.</p> +<p>48. Littorina unifasciata (n.s.)</p> +<p>Testa ovato-conica imperforata purpureo-albida laevigata, +anfractibus convexis ultimo subangulato, apertura purpurea +unifasciata.<br> +Icon. --</p> +<p>Shell ovate conical, nearly smooth, with only a few concentric +ridges, and distant, scarcely impressed, very narrow, grooves; +white or purplish-white outside; the whorls rather convex, last +one slightly angular in front; mouth ovate; throat purple or +purplish-black with a distinct broad white spiral band just below +the slight external keel; inner lip purple with a deep concavity +behind it; spire acute half the length of the shell; axis 8/12, +diameter 6/12, of an inch.</p> +<p>This shell has somewhat the shape of Littorina zigzag, the +Trochus zigzag of Montague, but is all of one colour externally +and has a much shorter spire.</p> +<p>49. Cerithium palustre, Brug. Dict. n. 19. Lam. Hist. 7 +66.<br> +Strombus palustris, Gmel. Syst. Nat. 3521. Number 38.<br> +Icon. Lister. Conch. t. 836. f. 62. t. 837. f. 63. Seba, 3 t. 50. +f. 13. 14. 17-19. Martini Conch. 4 t. 156. f. 1472.</p> +<p>50. Cerithium ebeninum, Brug. Dict. n. 26. Lam. Hist. 7 +67.<br> +Icon. Chem. Conch. 10 t. 162. f. 1548, 1549. Ency. Meth. t. 442. +f. 1. a, b.</p> +<p>51. Cerithium morus, Lam. Hist. 7 75. not Brug.<br> +Icon. Lister. t. 1024. f. 90 ?</p> +<p>52. Cerithium lima ? Lam. Hist. 7 77. Brug. Number 33.</p> +<p>A broken shell apparently of this species was brought home, +but when a more perfect specimen is round, it may prove to be +distinct from it.</p> +<p>53. Cerithium perversum ? Lam. Hist. 7 77.</p> +<p>54. Nassa fasciata, n.<br> +Buccinum fasciatum, Lam. Hist. 7 271.</p> +<p>55. Nassa suturalis, n.<br> +Buccinum suturale, Lam. Hist. 7 269 ?</p> +<p>56. Nassa mutabilis, n.<br> +Buccinum mutabile, Gmel. Syst. Nat. 3481. Lam. Hist. 7 269.<br> +Icon. List. t. 975. f. 30. Born. t. 9. f. 13. Chemn. Conch. 11 t. +188. f. 1810, 1811.</p> +<p>57. Nassa livida (n.s.)<br> +Testa ovato-conica superne transverse plicata basi spiraliter +striata purpureo-livida obscure castaneo bifasciata, anfractibus +convexiusculis, sutura linea alba notata, labro extus marginato +intus sulcato.</p> +<p>Icon. --</p> +<p>Shell ovate conical, livid purplish-white, with one or two +central, obscure brown, bands; upper whorls bluntly transversely +plaited, the rest smooth, livid, except at the front part of the +last, just over the groove, where it is spirally striated; the +suture distinct (not channelled) marked by a white line; the +inner lip distinct, raised, the outer thickened on the outer +side, edge sharp, inside grooved; the throat fulvous-brown; axis +one inch, diameter half an inch.</p> +<p>This shell belongs to the group of Nassa, but will perhaps +form a distinct genus intermediate between it and Columbella, +characterized by the narrow form of the mouth. It is most nearly +allied to N. olivacea, n. (Bucc. olivaceum, Lam.) and N. +canaliculata, n. (Bucc. canaliculatum, Lam.)</p> +<p>58. Clavatula striata (n.s.)</p> +<p>Testa ovato-lanceolata turrita albida regulariter spiraliter +sulcato-striata transverse et interrupte costata, anfractuum +margine superiore angulato subnodoso, cauda brevi, fauce +sulcata.</p> +<p>Icon. --</p> +<p>Shell ovate turreted, whitish-brown, with eleven or twelve +longitudinal interrupted ribs forming long tubercles on the +centre of the whorls; the whorls with distant impressed spiral +lines near the suture, with a rather flattened slightly nodulose +band; the mouth rather more than one-third the length of the +shell; outer lip thin inside, grooved; tail short, with a linear +depression on its columella side; axis ten-twelfths, diameter +four-twelfths of an inch.</p> +<p>59. Cassis achatina, var. Lam. Hist. 7 226.</p> +<p>A worn specimen, apparently a variety of this species. It is +entirely smooth, polished, and has the last whorl near the spire +slightly concave, edged with a scarcely raised rather nodulous +line, the outer lip is very thick, grooved on its inner edge, and +the columella is distinctly plaited.</p> +<p>It may perhaps prove to be a new kind; but the species of this +genus are so exceedingly apt to vary, that I do not wish to +increase the number of the already too much extended lists of +Lamarck and others.</p> +<p>60. Cassis flammea. Lam. Hist. 7 220.<br> +Cassidea flammea, Brug. Dict. n. 13.<br> +Buccinum flammeum, Lin. Sys. Nat. 1199. Gmel. 3473.<br> +Icon. Lister. t. 1004. f. 69. et t. 1005. f. 72. Martini Conch. 2 +t. 34. f. 353. 354.</p> +<p>61. Dolium variegatum, Lam. Hist. 7 261.<br> +Icon. --</p> +<p>62. Purpura haemastoma, Lam. Hist. 7 238.<br> +Buccinum haemastoma, Lin. Syst. Nat. 1202. Gmel. 3483.<br> +Icon. Lister. t. 988. f. 48. Martini Conch. 3 t. 101. f. 964, +965.</p> +<p>63. Murex adustus ? Lam. Hist. 7 162.<br> +Icon. Seba. Mus. ili. t. 77. f. 9. 10. Martini Conch. 3 t. 105. +f. 990, 991.</p> +<p>This shell agrees very well with the description of Lamarck, +except that the whole edge of the mouth is of a fine rose-red +colour.</p> +<p>64. Tritonium tranquebaricum, n.<br> +Triton tranquebaricum, Lam. Hist. 7 189.<br> +Icon. Ency. Meth. t. 422. f. 6.</p> +<p>65. Tritonium australe, n.<br> +Triton australe, Lam. Hist. 7 179.<br> +Murex tritonium australe, Chemn. Conch. 11.<br> +Icon. Chemn. 11 t. 194. f. 1867, 1868.</p> +<p>66. Ranella leucostoma, Lam. Hist. 7 150.<br> +Icon. --</p> +<p>This shell is very like Triton scobinator, Lam.; and the +varices, like it, neither form a complete series, nor are they +alternate, so that it does not agree exactly with the characters +of either genus.</p> +<p>67. Fusus verrucosus, n.<br> +Murex verrucosus, Gmel. Syst. Nat. 3557.<br> +Icon. Martini. 4 t. 146. f. 1349, 1356.</p> +<p>68. Conus achatinus, Brug. Dict. n. 66. Lam. Hist. 7 480.<br> +Icon. Chemn. 10 t. 142. f. 1317. Ency. Method. t. 380. f. 6.</p> +<p>69. Conus puncturatus. Brug. Dict. n. 35. Lam. Hist. 1 +460.<br> +Icon. Ency. Meth. t. 322. f. 9.</p> +<p>70. Conus maurus (n.s.)<br> +Testa turbinata coronata albida zonis duabus fuscis, spira +subdepressa mucronata, faute albida zonis duabus purpureis +notata.<br> +Icon. --</p> +<p>Shell very plain, top-shaped, crowned, and whitish, with two +brown bands; spire rather depressed; crowned, blunt; the +epidermis pale greenish-brown; the inside white, with two broad +blue bands, in the front of which is enclosed the canal; axis one +and a half, diameter one inch.</p> +<p>71. Cypraea arabica, Gmel. Syst. Nat. 1 3398. Lam. Hist. 7 +378. Gray, Zool. Journal 1 76.<br> +Icon. Lister. Conch. t. 658. f. 3. Martini. 1 t. 31. f. 328. +Ency. Meth. t. 352 f. 1, 2.</p> +<p>72. Cypraea tigris, Gmel. Syst. Nat. 1 3408. Lam. Hist. 7 382. +Gray, Zool. Journal 1 367.<br> +Icon. Lister. Conch. t. 682. f. 29. Martini 1 t. 24. f. 232-234. +Ency. Meth. t. 353. f. 3.</p> +<p>The shells of this species that are found on the North-east +Coast of Australia are generally of a very pale colour, with only +scattered markings.</p> +<p>73. Cypraea mauritiana, Gmel. Syst. Nat. 3407. Lam. Hist. 7 +377. Gray, Zool. Jour. 1 79.<br> +Icon. Lister. Conch. t. 703. f. 52. Martini 1 t. 30. f. 317-319. +Ency. Meth. t. 350. f. 2. a. b.</p> +<p>74. Cypraea lynx, Gmel. Syst. Nat. 3409. Lam. Hist. 7 388. +Oray, Zool. Journal 1 151.<br> +Cypraea venelli, Gmel. 3402.<br> +Cypraea squalina, Gmel. 3420.<br> +Icon. Lister. Conch. t. 683. f. 30. Martini 1 t. 23. f. 230, 231. +Ency. Meth. t. 355. f. 8. a. b.</p> +<p>75. Cypraea annulus, Gmel. Syst. Nat. 3415. Lam. Hist. 7 402. +Gray, Zool. Journal 1 494.<br> +Icon. Martini Conch. 1 t. 24. f. 239. 240. Ency. Meth. t. 356. f. +7.</p> +<p>76. Cypraea obvelata, Lam. Hist. 7 401. Gray, l.c. 1 493.<br> +Icon. --</p> +<p>77. Cypraea moneta, Gmel. Syst. Nat. 3414. Lam. Hist. 7 401. +Gray, Zool. Journal 1 492.<br> +Icon. Lister. Conch. t. 709. f. 59. Martini 1 t. 31. f. 337. 338. +Ency. Meth. t. 356. f. 3.</p> +<p>78. Cypraea errones. Lin. Syst. Nat. 1178. Gray, l.c. 1 +385.<br> +Cypraea erronea, Gmel. Syst. Nat. 3411.<br> +Cyprrea olivacea, b. Lam. Hist. 7 392.<br> +Icon. Pet. Gaz. t. 97. f. 21.</p> +<p>79. Cypraea caput serpentis. Lin. Syst. Nat. 1175. Gmel. 3406. +Lam. Hist. 7 385. Gray, Zool. Journal 1 495.<br> +Icon. Lister. t. 702. f. 50. et t. 704. f. 52. Martini 1 t. 33. +f. 316. Ency. Meth. 354. f. 4.</p> +<p>80. Cypraea zigzag, Gmel. Syst. Nat. t. 3410. Lam. Hist. 7 +394. Gray, Zool. Journal 1 373. Cypraea undata, Lam. Ann. Mus. n. +41.<br> +Icon. Lister. Conch. t. 661. f. 5. Martini 1 t. 23. f. 224, 225. +Ency. Meth. t. 356. f. 8. a. b.</p> +<p>81. Cypraea helvola, Lin. Syst. Nat. 1130. Gmel. 3417. Lam. +Hist. 7 398.<br> +Icon. Lister. Conch. t. 691. f. 38. Martini Conch. 1 t. 30. f. +326, 327. Ency. Meth. 356. f. 13.</p> +<p>82. Cypraea nucleus, Lin. Syst. Nat. 1 1181. Gmel. 3418. Lam. +Hist. 7 400. Gray, Zool. Journal 1 515.<br> +Icon. Born. t. 8. f. 17. Ency. Meth. t. 355. f. 3.</p> +<p>83. Cypraea oniscus, Lam. Hist. 7 402.<br> +Icon. Lister. Conch. t. 706. f. 55. Martini 1 t. 29. f. 306, +307.</p> +<p>84. Cypraea australis, Lam. Hist. 7 404.<br> +Icon. --</p> +<p>85. Mitra tabanula ? Lam. Hist. 7 323. n. 79.</p> +<p>A single bleached specimen, agreeing with this description +excepting in having five instead of three or four plaits on the +columella, was brought up by the sounding line. The shell is +longitudinally grooved, and very remarkable for being furnished +with numerous, rather distant, smooth, narrow, raised spiral +bands; having the inter-spaces finely spirally striated; the +nucleus of the shell, like that of a voluta, is mammillary.</p> +<p>86. Mitra scutulata, Lam. Hist. 7 314.<br> +Voluta scutulata sue discolor, Chemn. Conch. 10 Gmel. 3452.<br> +Icon. Chemn. l.c. t. 151. f. 1428, 1429.</p> +<p>Lamarck never having seen this shell has described it on the +authority of Chemnitz, whose figure agrees very well with the +shell before me; excepting that the spots round the suture form +nearly a continual band at a little distance from it; the outer +lip is smooth and thin; the inside dull livid brown; the axis is +fourteen-twelfths, the diameter seven-twelfths, of an inch.</p> +<p>87. Marginella minuta (n.s.)<br> +Testa minuta ovata fusiformis alba polita, spira conoidea +obtusiuscula, labro inflexo, columella quadriplicata.<br> +Icon. --</p> +<p>Shell ovate, fusiform, white, polished; spire conical, nearly +as long as the aperture, rather blunt; outer lip somewhat +inflexed; columella with four distinct plaits; axis +three-twelfths, diameter two-twelfths of an inch.</p> +<p>88. Strombus plicatus, Lam. Hist. 7 210.<br> +Strombus dentatus, Gmel. Syst. Nat. 3519.<br> +Icon. Rumph. Mus. t. 37. f. T. Pet. Amb. t. 14. f. 21. Schroet. +Einl. in Conch. 1 t. 2. f. 12. Ency. Meth. t. 408. f. 2. a. +b.</p> +<p>89. Strombus urceus, Lin. Gmel. 3518.<br> +Icon. Lister. Conch. t. 857. f. 13. Martini. Conch. 3 t. 78. f. +803-806.</p> +<p>90. Strombus australis (n.s.)</p> +<p>Testa ovato-oblonga tuberculata spiraliter sulcata albida +fusco-variegata, spira exserta, cauda recurva, labro incrassato +posterius lobo digiti-formi termitato intus (roseo ?) +sulcato.<br> +Icon. -- ?</p> +<p>Shell ovate oblong, spiral, white, spotted and lined with +pale, fulvous-brown; the spire exserted, conical, half as long as +the shell; the whorls longitudinally ribbed with one more +prominent than the rest, the one nearest the suture being acute +and tuberculated; the canal recurved; the outer lip thickened, +ending in a projecting lobe behind, and edged with two or three +blunt tubercles; the throat rose-coloured, furrowed; the inner +lip much thickened.</p> +<p>This shell is one of the five species which have been +confounded with Strombus auris dianae; it is most like S. +zelandiae, n. Chemn. 10 t. 156. f. 1485, 1486, in form and +throat, but has the sculpture of S. adusta, n. Chemn. 10 t. 156. +f. 1487, 1488; this last Lamarck considers as the true S. auris +dianae, whilst Linnaeus unquestionably describes the shell +figured by Martini, 7 t. 84. f. 840, and by Seba, 3 t, 61. f. 1, +2, which I have named S. lamarckii, from having considered it to +be the young of a new species; it is figured by Martini, 7 t. 84. +f. 338, 339, and by Seba, 3 t. 61. f. 5, 6, and is very nearly +allied to S. bituberculatus of Lamarck.</p> +<p>91. Pterocera lambis, Lam. Hist. 7 196.<br> +Strombus lambis, Gmel. Syst. Nat. 3508.<br> +Icon. Lister. Conch. t. 866. f. 21. Martini, Conch. 3 t. 87. f. +858, 859.</p> +<p>This shell is very distinct from Strombus camelus of Chemn. 10 +t. 155. f. 1478.</p> +<p>92. Bulla australis, Gray, Ann. of Philosophy, 9 n.s. 408.<br> +Icon. --</p> +<p>This species is very distinct from Bulla striata, Lister. +Conch. t. 714. f. 72. with which it has been generally +confounded; it is of larger size and perfectly smooth.</p> +<p>93. Bulla hyalina (n.s.)</p> +<p>Testa ovata cylindrica imperforata tenuis hyalina albida +laevis concentrice subrugosa; apice incrassato.<br> +Icon. --</p> +<p>The shell ovate, cylindrical, thin; hyaline white, smooth, +very slightly concentrically rugose; the vertex thickened, not +perforated; the aperture rather longer than the shell; the inner +lip slightly reflexed; axis five-twelfths, diameter +three-twelfths of an inch.</p> +<p>94. Cryptostoma haliotoideum (n.)<br> +Sigaretus haliotoideus, Lam. Hist. 6 2. 208.<br> +Icon. Martini. Conch. 1 t. 16. f. 151-154.</p> +<p>95. Hipponix listeri (n.)<br> +Icon. Lister. t. 544. f. 29.</p> +<p>This shell is very nearly allied to Pileopis, but the animal +is evidently not brachiopodous. It does not form (or at least not +always) a shelly support, but corrodes the surface of the shell +to which it is attached, so as to form a more flat attachment, +and to leave a lunate convex rib instead of the lunate muscular +impression which is observed on those specimens or individuals +which have a shelly base.</p> +<p>96. Siphonaria radiata, Var. Gray, Phil. Mag. 1824. 275.<br> +Siphonaria exigua, Sow. Gen.<br> +Patella japonica, Donovan.<br> +Icon. Donovan, Nat. Repos. t. 79.</p> +<p>97. Bulimus kingii, Gray, Ann. Phil., 9 n.s. 414.<br> +Icon.</p> +<p>The shell ovate, white, with numerous dark-brown irregular +concentric lines, smooth except near the suture where it is +slightly wrinkled; whorls six, rather convex; aperture ovate, +about half as long as the shell; peristome thin (perhaps not +formed); perforation covered with a white even lip, surrounded by +a dark edge; the throat chocolate-brown.</p> +<p>This shell is abundant on the hills of King George the Third's +Sound, in the vicinity of Bald Head.</p> +<p>98. Cyclostoma australe (n.s.)</p> +<p>Testa orbiculata subtrochiformis profunde umbilicata albida +fasciis binis fuscis cincta, spira brevi acuta, anfractibus 5 +convexis concentrice sulcatis.<br> +Icon. --</p> +<p>Shell orbicular, nearly trochi-form, white with two pale-brown +bands on each whorl; the one near the suture narrow, and the +other, placed on the middle of the whorl, broad; whorls five; +convex rounded, with numerous close concentric furrows; axis +umbilicated; umbilicus rather narrow, deep; aperture rather more +than one half the length of the shell; peristome (not formed ?) +simple.</p> +<p>99. Chiton rugosus (n.s.)</p> +<p>Testa octovalvis glabra, valvis tuberculatis, ligamento glabro +laevi.<br> +Icon. --</p> +<p>Shell with eight valves, bald; valves covered with numerous +small tubercles both on the central and lateral area; marginal +ligament smooth, bald.</p> +<p>100. Patella tramoserica, Chemn. 11 179.<br> +Icon. Chemn. 11 t. 197. f. 1912, 1913.</p> +<p>101. Patella radiata, Chemn. 11 100.<br> +Icon. Chemn. 11 t. 197. f. 1916, 1917.</p> +<p>When young, the form of this shell is more conical than in the +figure above quoted, and the outer surface is finely radiately +striated.</p> +<p>102. Patella neglecta (n.)<br> +Patella melanogramma, Sowerby, not Gmel.<br> +Icon. Sow. Gen. f.</p> +<p>When this shell is young, or when the older specimens have +lived in deep water, where their surface has not been broken by +the shingle, or corroded, or covered with coralloid +incrustations, they are regularly radiately ribbed; the ribs are +covered with narrow intermediate grooves, marked with a black +spot on the internal edge of the shell, which is permanent +through all the variations of the outer surface. The inside is +pale purplish-brown, with a yellowish-white muscular impression. +In the older specimens the central disk is often of a pure +opaque-white, and the muscular impressions round the inner edge +of the shell are both pellucid brownish-white; length four +inches, breadth three, height two inches.</p> +<p>This shell is abundant on the rocky shores of King George the +Third's Sound.</p> +<p>In the collection there is a worn specimen of another species +of this genus; but from its bad state, and from the very great +confusion in which the various species of Patella are involved, I +do not venture to describe it as a new shell, although there has +not been any hitherto described to which, in its present state, +it can with any certainty be referred. It is conical, convex, +with twenty-four or twenty-five distinct convex ribs alternately +increasing in size; the grooves between the ribs are broad, with +irregular, concentric, black-brown, raised lines, which appear to +be caused by the wearing away of the other part of the dark outer +coat; the inside is white with a brown disk, and the edge +sinuated and furnished with grooves under the larger ribs.</p> +<p>103. Haliotis roei (n.s.)</p> +<p>Testa subrotunda convexiuscula rugosa et plicata spiraliter +sulcata intus argenteo et rubro margaritacea, spira +prominula.<br> +Icon. --</p> +<p>Shell roundish, rather convex; the outside reddish or +brownish, regular; closely but unequally spiral, ribbed, and +irregularly and roughly concentrically striated and plaited; the +row of perforations is rather prominent, and pierced with six or +seven moderate-sized, slightly tubular, holes; the inside is +iridescent, pearly, rather wavy, and exhibits two distinct +whorls; the columella lip is short and flattened, outer lip +rounded; the spire is convex, rather prominent, placed about +one-third of the breadth of the shell from the outer lip, and +consists of three whorls, which very rapidly enlarge.</p> +<p>This distinct shell, at the desire of Captain King, has been +named after Lieutenant J.S. Roe, the assistant-surveyor of the +expedition.</p> +<p>It is most nearly allied to H. australis, Chemn. 10 t. 166. f. +1604, but differs from it in being rounder and more distinctly +ribbed.</p> +<p>104. Haliotis cunninghamii (n.s.)</p> +<p>Testa ovato-rotundata tenuis depressa rugoso-subplicata +spiraliter striata intus argenteo et rubro margaritacea, spira +prominula, foraminibus parvis.<br> +Icon. --</p> +<p>Shell roundish-ovate, thin, depressed; the outer surface very +slightly concentrically plaited and rough, and finely, regularly, +spirally, striated; the row of perforations slightly elevated, +pierced with eight or nine small slightly-tubular holes; the +spire rather prominent, apex placed about one-fourth of the +breadth of the shell from the sutural angle on the outer lip, +consisting of four whorls which rapidly enlarge; the inside +expanded out, disk nearly flat exhibiting one distinct whorl; the +columella lip narrow, rather long, flattened; the outer lip thin, +truncated; the nick of the imperfect perforation placed about +one-third the length of the outer lip from the end of the +columella lip: length six inches, breadth five.</p> +<p>This shell, at the wish of Captain King, has been named after +Mr. Allan Cunningham, the botanical collector of the voyage.</p> +<p>This species, although nearly allied to Haliotis midae, is +quite distinct from it.</p> +<p>105. Haliotis squamosa (n.s.)</p> +<p>Testa ovato-oblonga convexa rugoso-plicata aurantio-rubens +spiraliter costata, costis tuberculato-muncatis, fauce +margaritacea, spira retusa.<br> +Icon.</p> +<p>Shell ovate-oblong, convex, externally transversely rugose, +plaited and spirally ribbed; the ribs concentrically striated and +furnished with numerous raised scale-like tubercles; the row of +perforations scarcely round contains ten or twelve rather large +holes; the spire slightly raised, very near the edge, consisting +of two or three very rapidly-enlarging whorls; the inside +concave, showing the external ribs, reddish pearly; the columella +lip narrow, depressed, bent; the outer lip thin, strait, or cut +out; the imperfect perforation about one-fifth the length of the +outer lip from the end of the columella lip; length two, breadth +one inch and a quarter.</p> +<p>This species is very distinct on account of its long form, and +curved lower face, as well as its outer surface.</p> +<p>106. Haliotis marmorata, Lin. Sys. Nat. 1256.<br> +Icon. Martini. 1 t. 14. f. 139.</p> +<p>107. Padollus rubicundus, De Montfort, Syst. 2 115.<br> +Padollus scalaris, Leach, Zool. Misc. 1 66.<br> +Haliotis tricostalis, Lam. Hist. 6 2. 218.<br> +Icon. De Montf. 2 t. 114. Leach, l.c.</p> +<p>This specimen, which is the largest I ever saw, measures three +inches and a half by two and a half. It was found upon Rottnest +Island, on the West Coast.</p> +<h3>PTEROPODA.</h3> +<p>108. Janthina fragilis, Lam. Syst. Anim.<br> +Janthina communis, Lam. Hist. 6 2. 206.<br> +Helix janthina, Lin. Sys. Nat. 1 1246.<br> +Icon. Lister. t. 572. f. 24. Chemn, 5 t. 166. f. 1577, 1578.</p> +<p>Several specimens of this shell were taken by the towing-net +in the Indian Ocean, on the passage from the Coast of New Holland +to Mauritius.</p> +<p>109. Janthina exigua, Lam. Hist. 6 2. 206.</p> +<p>Two or three species of this shell were presented to the +Museum by Mr. Hunter, the surgeon to the expedition; it is proved +to be very distinct from J. fragilis, from the description of its +float by Dr. Coates in the transactions of the Society of Natural +Science of Philadelphia. See Annals of Philosophy for 1825, page +385.</p> +<p>110. Hyalaea tridentata, Lam. Hist. 6 1. 286.<br> +Monooulus telemus ? Lin. Syst. Nat. 1 1059.<br> +Anomia tridentata, Forsk. Faun. Arab. 124.<br> +Icon. Forsk. Faun. t. 40. f. b. Chemn. 8 Vign. 13. Cuv. Ann. Mus. +4 t. 59. Anatomy.</p> +<h3>CEPHALOPODA.</h3> +<p>111. Spirula fragilis, Lam. Syst. Anim. 102.<br> +Spirula australis, Lam. Ency. Method. 465. f. 5. a. b.<br> +Spirula peronii, Lam. Hist. 7 601.<br> +Nautilus spirula, Lin. Syst. Nat. 1163.<br> +Nautilus spicula, Gmel. 3371.<br> +Icon. Lister Conch. t. 550. f.2. Martini. 1 Veg. 254. t. 20. f. +184, 185. Ency. Method. ut supra Animal.</p> +<p>Captain King brought home several minute species of Nautilus, +which will be taken notice of at a future period, as they require +particular examination and minute comparison with those found +upon the coasts of Italy and other parts of Europe.</p> +<p>Note. Specimens of the shells in the above catalogue, to which +the following numbers refer, have been presented to the British +Museum, namely, 2, 5, 7, 8, 12, 13, 17, 20, 25, 28, 29, 31, 46, +48, 90, 91, 92, 94, 95, 96, 97, 98, 99, 102 and 103.</p> +<hr align="center" width="20%"> +<h3>A FEW GENERAL REMARKS ON THE VEGETATION OF CERTAIN COASTS OF +TERRA AUSTRALIS, AND MORE ESPECIALLY OF ITS NORTH-WESTERN +SHORES.</h3> +<p align="center">BY MR. ALLAN CUNNINGHAM,<br> +COLLECTOR TO THE ROYAL GARDENS AT KEW.</p> +<p>It having been resolved by the British Government to employ a +colonial vessel from the settlement of Port Jackson in New South +Wales, for the purpose of exploring the whole of the +North-western Coasts of New Holland, and that portion of the +North Coast, not seen by that able navigator, the late Captain +Flinders; a most favourable opportunity was thereby afforded for +a partial examination of the plants of those unknown shores, with +a view of adding to our progressively augmenting knowledge of the +very interesting Flora of this southern continent.</p> +<p>Having materially profited by a twelvemonth's previous +residence in New South Wales, acquainting myself with the +characters (and principal peculiarities of structure) of many +genera of plants absolutely proper to Terra Australis; and +particularly in that period, throughout the progress of a long +and very interesting journey in the interior, to the westward of +Port Jackson, I was most happy and desirous to obey an +instruction I received from the Right Honourable Sir Joseph +Banks, on behalf of the Government, directing me to place myself +under the orders of Captain P.P. King, to whom the execution of +this important service had been intrusted, and to accompany him +to those particular coasts, destined for his investigation, in +order to form and prepare such collections of their vegetation, +for the use of His Majesty's gardens at Kew, as circumstances, +and the particular season of the year proper for visiting those +shores, might afford me. My very limited knowledge of the plants +of that continent, especially of genera, that form a striking +feature in its Flora, was moreover essentially improved during +our stay at King George's Sound on the South-west Coast, previous +to our arrival upon the North-west Coast, at the commencement of +the first voyage of His Majesty's cutter the Mermaid.</p> +<p>Although the reader may inform himself, from Captain King's +relation of the several voyages, of the opportunities that were +afforded me in forming my collections of plants, still it appears +necessary, in this place, to take a general retrospective view of +those parts of the coasts under examination, whereon my +researches were made, adverting, at the same time, to the +prevalent unfavourable seasons for flowering plants, during which +it should seem the survey of the North-west Coast could alone be +effected with safety.</p> +<p>During the progress of the survey of the southern extreme of +the North-west Coast (at which part Captain King commenced his +examinations, in 1818) I landed in Exmouth Gulf, then upon one of +the islands of Dampier's Archipelago, at the Intercourse Islands, +and on Malus Island; but the results of these several excursions +(in some of which ample time was afforded me) did by no means +answer my expectations; herbaceous plants being for the most part +dead, and the few (hard woody) shrubs scarcely bearing +fructification: disadvantages arising, in fact, from the extreme +barrenness of the land, and more particularly from the prevalent +droughts of the season, previous to the change of the monsoon, +which soon afterwards took place, obliging us to quit the +North-west Coast altogether; the remaining periods of the voyage +being employed in the examination of certain parts of the North +Coast.</p> +<p>We again reached the North-west Coast, in the month of +September of the following year, resuming the survey at its +northern extremity, under the most flattering views, and with a +favourable season for the prosecution of that primary object of +the voyage. Between the meridians of 125 and 129 degrees, on the +parallel of 14 degrees, although a large proportion of the +vegetation was for the most part destroyed by the long +established droughts, the number of specimens of plants bearing +fructification, gathered at Port Keats, Vansittart Bay, Port +Warrender, and especially in Cambridge Gulf (where we spent ten +days) was nevertheless considerable and highly interesting, +belonging, however, almost wholly to established genera of which +Grevillea and Acacia were the most striking. The breaking up of +the monsoon at length again obliged Captain King to close his +examination of the coast for that season, to which we, however, +returned in September, 1820, continuing the survey westerly from +the point at which we had left those shores the preceding year. I +had very eligible opportunities of landing upon the shores of +Montagu Sound, Capstan Island, Cape Pond, York Sound, especially +at the head of Hunter's River, at Brunswick Bay, and in Careening +Bay, Port Nelson; at which several parts the collections formed +were very important, but not extensive.</p> +<p>Our encampment on the shore of the latter bay, during the +repair of the vessel, enabled me to examine the country around, +to the distance of four or five miles; but it being at the height +of the dry season, comparatively few flowering plants were +detected, and no herbaceous plants of importance. Our prolonged +stay there also enabled me to form some idea of the Flora of its +shores and neighbouring country, from which I gathered materials +for comparison with the vegetation of Endeavour River, situated +at the eastern extreme of its parallel on the opposite shore of +the continent: the identity of certain species on either coast, +together with the inference drawn therefrom, will appear stated, +towards the close of this general notice. Very few new genera +were the fruits of this third voyage, but many undescribed plants +of old genera were discovered, and with those that are frequent +on the North Coast, and tropical shores of New South Wales, some +were remarked that were originally discovered on the South Coast. +The period again arrived, that rendered it necessary to depart +from the coast, independent of the leaky state of our vessel, +which materially hastened our return to Port Jackson, when the +cutter was considered wholly unfit for a fourth voyage, in which +the complete survey of the north-west, and the examination of the +line of west coasts were contemplated. To effect this important +service, the colonial government purchased a brig, subsequently +named the Bathurst, and I again accompanied Captain King from +Port Jackson, in May, 1821, to those parts of the coasts then +remaining unexplored, at which we arrived at the close of July. +Our very limited stay on those shores, however, was at that +season wherein all vegetation was suffering under the excess of +drought; I had nevertheless the means afforded me of ascertaining +the general identity of the plants of Prince Regent's River, +Hanover Bay, and Port George the Fourth (portions of the coast +explored in the voyage) and other parts in the vicinity, that +were examined the preceding year, at a like season, but under +circumstances much more favourable. Upon our return to the +North-west Coast from the Mauritius, early in 1822, the only part +visited was Cygnet Bay, situate about 2 1/2 degrees to the +south-west of the last-mentioned sound, and it happening at a +season when some rain had fallen, I met with several plants in an +abundant flowering state, of species, however, in part originally +discovered upon other coasts, and described by Mr. Brown, during +the Investigator's voyage.</p> +<p>Of the West Coast (properly so denominated) which was seen +during the Bathurst's voyage, very little can be said in +reference to its vegetable productions, and most probably nothing +can be here advanced, tending to augment our very scanty +knowledge of its Flora, acquired in part long since, through the +medium of the celebrated navigator, Dampier, but more especially +by the botanists accompanying Captain Baudin's voyage. I had no +opportunity of examining any part of the main, during our run +northerly along its extensive shore, but I landed on Rottnest +Island, and repeatedly visited the northern extremity of Dirk +Hartog's Island, off Shark's Bay, where I gathered, under every +discouragement of season, some of the most important portions of +its rich vegetation; in many instances, however, in very +imperfect conditions of fructification. Its general features led +me decidedly to assimilate it to the striking character of the +botany of the South Coast; a characteristic of which it is more +than probable the mainland largely partakes, if we may draw an +inference from its aspect at widely distant parts.</p> +<p>Upon those portions of the North Coast, which were chiefly +surveyed during the Mermaid's first voyage, at a period +immediately subsequent to the season of the rains, I had very +favourable opportunities of increasing my collections upon the +Goulburn Islands, Ports Essington and Raffles, Croker's Island, +Mount-Norris Bay, and on the shores of Van Diemen's Gulf; and +among many described species, discovered formerly in the great +Gulf of Carpentaria, there were several most interesting new +plants. With a view towards an entire completion of the survey of +the several coasts of the continent, that part of New South Wales +within the tropic, north of Cape Bedford, which was not seen by +Captain Cook, entered into the plans of the Mermaid's second +voyage; and it was highly gratifying to my feelings to reflect +that it was reserved for me to complete several specimens +discovered formerly in imperfect states by those eminent +naturalists who accompanied the above great circumnavigator, in +1770, desiderata, that have been wanting ever since this period +of their discovery; no mediums of communication with those +particular parts of the coast having presented themselves.</p> +<p>The aggregate of the several collections that have been formed +during the progress of the four voyages under the general +circumstances above briefly referred to, and which, as +constituting a small Herbarium, will be thus collectively spoken +of in the following remarks, does not exceed one thousand three +hundred species of Phaenogamous plants; of these five hundred and +twenty are already described by authors, the other portion being +in part unpublished species, previously discovered on other +coasts of Terra Australis, and in part absolutely new, referable, +however, mostly to well defined genera. Of Cryptogamous plants, +there are but few species, and of these, or parasitical +Orchideae, none have been detected in these voyages in addition +to those already described: a circumstance, that with respect to +the North-west Coast can reasonably be accounted for, from the +non-existence of primary mountains, or land above very moderate +elevation; by the absence of lofty dense forests (points of +character necessary to that permanency of atmospheric moisture, +which constitutes an essential requisite to the existence of +almost the whole of these tribes): and the consequent general +exposure to the sun of those arid shores.</p> +<p>Limited in number as the new species really are, they will +nevertheless constitute, when added to the discoveries recently +made, through the medium of expeditions to the interior, from the +colony of Port Jackson, very important materials to carry on that +Flora of Australia, so very ably commenced by Mr. Brown. Since +that eminent botanist has already advanced much important matter +in the valuable essay, published at the close of the account of +Captain Flinders' voyage, respecting the relative proportions of +the three grand divisions of plants in Australia, as far as they +had been discovered at that period, and has, from very extensive +materials, given us a comparative view of that portion of its +Flora, and the vegetation of other countries; I shall now simply +submit a few general remarks in this notice, on certain plants of +established natural families, that have been discovered in the +progress of these voyages; closing this paper with some +observations, chiefly illustrative of the geographical diffusion +of several Australian plants known to authors, whose localities +have hitherto been exceedingly limited.</p> +<p>PALMAE. On considering the vast expanse of the continent of +Terra Australis, and that great extent of coast which passes +through climates favourable for the production of certain genera +of this remarkable natural family, it is singular that so few of +the order should have been discovered: a fact in the history of +the Australian vegetation, which (upon contemplating the natural +economy of many other genera of plants) can only be considered as +accounted for, by the great tendency to drought of at least +three-fifths of its shores.</p> +<p>To Corypha, Seaforthia, and Livistona, the only three genera +that have been enumerated in the productions of the Australian +Flora, may now be added Calamus; of which a species (discovered +without fructification, by Sir Joseph Banks, during the +celebrated voyage of Captain Cook) has at length been detected +bearing fruit in the vicinity of Endeavour River. The existence +of this palm, or rattan, on the East Coast, to which it is +confined, seems almost to be limited to an area within the +parallels of 15 and 17 degrees South; should, however, its range +be more extensive, it is southerly one or two degrees, in which +direction a remarkable primary granitic formation of the coast +continues, throughout the whole neighbourhood of which is a +peculiar density of dark moist forest, seemingly dependent on it, +and evidently indispensable to the life of this species of +Calamus; but at the termination of this geological structure, it +most probably ceases to exist. A dioecious palm of low stature, +and in habit similar to Seaforthia, was detected in the shaded +forests investing the River Hastings, in latitude 31 degrees +South, bearing male flowers; but as it may prove to be a dwarf +state of a species of that genus, which has lately been observed, +with all its tropical habits, in a higher latitude, it cannot now +be recognised as a sixth individual of the family whose +fructification has been seen.</p> +<p>Although this order has been observed to be sparingly +scattered along the line of East Coast almost to the thirty-fifth +degree of south latitude, its range on the opposite shores of the +continent is very limited. Upon the North-west Coast, the genus +Livistona alone has been remarked, in about latitude 15 degrees +South; beyond which, throughout a very extensive line of +depressed shore, towards the North-west Cape, no palms were seen. +If the structure of a coast, and its natural disposition to +produce either humidity or drought be consulted (a point, with +respect to this order, as well as certain other tropical tribes, +appearing very important) those portions of the western shores +recently seen, indicate no one character that would justify the +supposition of the existence of the Palmae in the corresponding +extremes of the respective parallels that produce them on the +opposite or East Coast. Another remark relative to the economy of +this family is, that in New Holland it seems confined to the +coasts, Corypha australis, so frequent in particular shaded +situations in the neighbourhood of Port Jackson, having never +been detected in the vicinity of, or upon the mountains, much +less in the distant country to the westward of that extensive +boundary.</p> +<p>ASPHODELEAE. Among the several described plants in the +Herbarium, referred to this family, that were collected upon the +East and South-west Coasts, are specimens in complete +fructification of a remarkable plant of arborescent growth, +having a caudex twenty feet high, and all the habits of Dracaena. +It probably constitutes a new genus distinct from Cordyline of +Commerson, to which, however, it appears closely allied; and has +an extensive range on the East Coast, where, although it has for +the most part been observed within the tropic, it extends +nevertheless as far as latitude 31 degrees South. The only plants +of Asphodeleae remarked on the north-western shores, were an +imperfect Tricoryne, probably Tenella of Mr. Brown, discovered by +that gentleman during the Investigator's voyage on the South +Coast; and the intratropical Asparagus, which is frequent in +latitude fifteen degrees South.</p> +<p>CONIFERAE. To the general observations already made on that +part of Coniferae inhabiting the southern hemisphere, may be +added some important facts, to be gathered from the plants in the +Herbarium of the late voyages, that will afford a very correct +view of the fructification of some doubtful genera, as well as +their limits. Among these the fruit of Podocarpus aspleniifolia +of M. Labillardiere, was observed, together with the female +fructification of another tree (the Huon pine) found also at the +southern extremes and western coast of Van Diemen's Land, which +may prove to be a Dacrydium. Callitris, of which seven species +are known, and principally found in the parallel of Port Jackson, +has also been discovered upon the North-west Coast, in about +latitude 15 degrees South; and another species, remarkable for +its general robust habit, was observed at Rottnest Island, on the +West Coast. A tree, most certainly of this family, and probably +(from habit) a Podocarpus, has been seen upon the East Coast, +within the tropic, but the absence of fructification prevented +its genus being satisfactorily determined. With respect to the +extent of the order in the Islands of New Zealand, some recent +specimens gathered upon the northern, prove one of its pines to +be a Podocarpus; and another, producing a cone, and solitary, +alternate scattered elliptical leaves, shows its relation to +Agathis of Salisbury, or Dammar pine of Amboina.</p> +<p>URTICEAE, whose mass appears also to be confined to +equinoctial countries, may be considered very limited in those +parts of Terra Australis lying within the tropic recently +explored. Ficus is the most considerable genus of the order in +that continent; and although chiefly found on the north and +north-western shores, is also traced on the East Coast, almost to +latitude 36 degrees South, where the trees attain an enormous +size. About sixteen species are preserved in the collections of +the late voyages; all small trees, and one half of which has been +gathered on the North-west Coast.</p> +<p>A species of Morus, bearing small white fruit, was discovered +upon the continent and islands of New South Wales within the +tropic, where also a new genus of the order, with radiated +leaves, has been traced as far as Endeavour River. Of the genus +Urtica, whose numerous species can simply be considered as of +herbaceous duration, although a few of tropical existence assume +a fruticose habit, there is one plant in the vicinity of the +Colony of Port Jackson, remarkable for its gigantic, arborescent +growth; many specimens having been remarked from fifteen to +twenty feet in height, of proportional robust habit, and of +highly stimulating nature.</p> +<p>SANTALACEAE. Nearly three-fourths of the Australian portion of +the order described, were formerly discovered in the parallel of +Port Jackson, upon the shores of the South Coast, and in Van +Diemen's Land. The genus Choretrum, however, heretofore limited +to the southern extremes of the continent, approaches within +about two degrees of the tropic on the West Coast, having been +lately observed on Dirk Hartog's Island. It is rather remarkable +that neither Leptomeria nor Choretrum form a part of the feature +of the vegetation of the arid, depressed portions of the +North-west Coast,* where several of the more harsh, rigid kinds +of plants, of various genera, of the South Coast have been +remarked. Those extensive shores (generally speaking) are not +wanting in the order, for two species of the tropical genus +Santalum, Exocarpus, and a globular-fruited Fusanus, were +collected in and about the parallel of 15 degrees South.</p> +<blockquote>(*Footnote. Towards the North-west +Cape.)</blockquote> +<p>PROTEACEAE. Since the publication of Mr. Brown's valuable +dissertation on this very extensive natural family, in which were +described all the species known at that period, a few important +discoveries have been made in Terra Australis, particularly on +the North-west Coast, where the order seems to be limited to +Grevillea, Hakea, and Persoonia.</p> +<p>In the Herbarium formed during the late voyages, are specimens +of thirteen species of intertropical Grevillea, in various stages +of perfection; of these seven are described from specimens +formerly gathered upon the East Coast, and in the Gulf of +Carpentaria; the remaining six are, however, perfectly new, and +will chiefly augment the last section of that genus, having hard +(in some instances spherical) woody follicles, containing seeds +orbicularly surrounded by a membranous wing, more or less +dilated, and a deciduous style; characters that future botanists +may deem sufficient to justify its separation from Grevillea. The +range of this division, which has been named by Mr. Brown, +Cycloptera, has been hitherto limited to the Gulf of Carpentaria, +and the tropical shores of the East Coast. Of the genus Hakea, +hitherto almost wholly excluded from the tropical parts of +Australia, besides H. arborescens, the only species formerly +observed within that circle, the Herbarium furnishes at least two +plants, that have been recently discovered in about 22 degrees +south latitude, the one being H. oleifolia of King George's +Sound, whilst the other proves an entirely new species, belonging +to the first section of the genus, having long filiform leaves, +and ecalcarated capsules.</p> +<p>Upon the East Coast in latitude 14 degrees two shrubs were +observed having all the habits of Hakea, of the South-west Coast, +but being without fructification, their identity could not be +satisfactorily determined.</p> +<p>Viewing the general distribution of Banksiae, it is a singular +fact in the geographical history of this genus, that its species, +which have been traced through almost every meridian of the South +Coast, upon the islands in Bass Strait, in Van Diemen's Land, and +widely scattered throughout the whole extent of New South Wales +to the North Coast, at which extreme of the continent, B. dentata +has been observed as far west as longitude 130 degrees East, +should be wholly wanting on the line of North-west Coast. Why the +links of this almost perfect chain should have been broken on the +seashores appears unaccountable, since they are, by reason of +their general sterility and exposure, extremely favourable to the +growth of the greater portion of the order. Our limited knowledge +of the West Coast (properly so called) does not afford us +materials to hazard even a partial conclusion, relative to the +existence of this family on its shores, excepting from the total +absence of any one plant of Proteaceae at those parts of Rottnest +and Dirk Hartog's Islands visited during the Bathurst's voyage; +an inference may be drawn of the general paucity of any part of +the order on the shores of the neighbouring main. Although no +species have been found common to shores opposite to each other, +in the higher latitudes, the identity of Grevillea mimosoides, +Persoonia falcata, and Hakea arborescens, has been established +upon the East Coast, and the north-western shores, in the +parallel of about 15 degrees South: but whilst this geographical +diffusion has been remarked in reference to those particular +species, the range of Grevillea gibbosa, a plant discovered at +Endeavour River by Sir Joseph Banks, is now tolerably well +defined by observations made during the late voyages, from which +it appears to be circumscribed to an area not exceeding one +hundred and twenty miles on the East Coast. In the course of the +progress of the land expedition above referred to, the discovery +of another plant of this natural order by Mr. Fraser, occurred in +New South Wales, in a tract of country west of the coastline, +about the parallel of 31 degrees, where I am informed it is a +timber-tree of very large dimensions; and seemingly it +constitutes a new genus, nearly allied to Knightia of Mr. Brown, +a native of New Zealand, as I judged from a casual view of some +specimens.</p> +<p>LABIATAE and VERBENACEAE. The mass of these orders (which are +admitted to be very nearly allied to each other) seems in +Australia to exist on its eastern coast, within and beyond the +tropic, and the species in the collection lately formed, are +referred to ten established genera, of which (as belonging to +Verbenaceae) Vitex and Premna are most remarkable on the +North-western Coast.</p> +<p>Of Labiatae, a new species of Labillardiere's genus +Prostranthera was discovered upon Dirk Hartog's Island, where, as +also at Rottnest Island, Westringia was observed, of species, +however, common to the South Coast.</p> +<p>BORAGINEAE. Some very important amendments, in reference to +the limits of certain genera of the order have been proposed by +Mr. Brown in his Prodromus, where the characters are remodelled +to the exclusion of certain species previously referred to them +by authors. Of Cordia (to which Varronia of Linne, and Cerdana of +Ruiz and Pavon, have at length been united) only two species have +been found in Terra Australis, of which one had been previously +discovered in New Caledonia; and during the late voyages C. +orientalis has been observed on the North-west Coast, where a +third species of Tournefortia in complete fructification was +discovered; and the Herbarium contains some species of that +section of Heliotropium, having a simple straight spicated +inflorescence, which were also found on those equinoctial parts +of the continent.</p> +<p>BIGNONIACEAE. Almost ninety species of this beautiful order +are described by authors, the greater part of which are at +present incorporated among the genuine species of Bignonia of +Linne; a genus that will hereafter be divided, according to the +shape of the calyx, the number of fertile stamina, and more +especially the form of the fruit (which in some species is an +orbicular or elliptical capsule, varying in others to a long +cylindrical figure, with seeds partly cuneated, or thickened at +one extremity, and in others, a truly compressed Siliqua) +together with the relative position of the dissepiment, in +respect to the valves of the fruit.</p> +<p>The greater portion of Bignoniaceae appears to exist in the +equinoctial parts of America; Some, however, are natives of +India, and a few occur on the western coast of Africa, and Island +of Madagascar, but in Terra Australis the order is reduced to +four plants, of which one is a recent discovery, and may be +referred to Spathodea. In that continent, the order exists only +upon the North and East Coasts; it is not, however, entirely +limited to the tropic, for Tecoma of Mr. Brown is also found in +latitude 34 degrees South, on which parallel it has been traced +at least three hundred and fifty miles in the interior to the +westward of the colony of Port Jackson.</p> +<p>ASCLEPIADEAE and APOCINEAE. Nearly the whole of the plants in +the recently formed herbarium, that belong to these natural +families, have been described from specimens formerly discovered +upon the East and North Coasts, several of which appear to give a +partial character to the vegetation of some parts of its +shores.</p> +<p>Hoya (hardly Asclepias carnosa of Linne) Cynanchum, Gymnema, +Gymnanthus, Sarcostemma, and probably Secamone, as belonging to +Asclepiadeae, and all the genera of Mr. Brown (Lyonsia excepted) +referred to the latter order, exist on that extensive coast, +where Balfouria and Alyxia have each an accession of species. Of +Strychnos, which is also frequent, and probably produces its +flowers during the rainy season (as has been remarked of this +genus in other countries) specimens in that stage of its +fructification are still a desideratum; all that is known +respecting the plant being the form and size of its fruit, which +in some species varies considerably.</p> +<p>GOODENOVIAE. The Herbarium contains very few specimens of this +considerable Australian family, the greater mass existing in and +to the southward of the parallel of Port Jackson. The order is +reduced to Goodenia, Scaevola, Velleia, and the tropical Calogyne +on the North-west Coast, and the few species of the two first +genera prove to have been formerly discovered upon the South +Coast during the voyage of Captain Flinders, of which one plant +has alsa a much more extensive range than has been given it +heretofore. It is Scaevola spinescens, which forms a portion of +the harsh, rigid vegetables of Dirk Hartog's Island on the West +Coast, and from that shore probably occupies a part of a very +considerable extent of barren country in the interior, in a +direction towards the East Coast, having been seen in abundance +in the latitude of Port Jackson, so near that colony as the +meridian of 146 degrees 30 minutes East. A new Velleia, +discovered on the North-west Coast in latitude 16 degrees, +augments that genus, belonging to the section with a +pentaphyllous calyx.</p> +<p>RUBIACEAE. The existence of several plants of this extensive +family in the intratropical parts of Terra Australis especially +when aided by some individuals of almost wholly exotic tribes, +that form a prominent feature in the Flora of other equinoctial +countries, tend, in some measure, to diminish the peculiar +character of the vegetation of Terra Australis on those shores, +and thus it is a considerable assimilation to the Flora of a part +of a neighbouring continent that has been traced. About thirty +species are preserved in the collections of these voyages, for +the most part belonging to genera existing in India, but more +abundant in the tropical parts of South America.</p> +<p>Of these, Gardenia, Guettarda, Cephaelis, Coffea, Psychotria, +and Morinda, are found on the East Coast; whilst, in +corresponding parallels on the opposite, or north-western shores, +the order, although not materially reduced, is limited to the two +latter genera, with Rondeletia, Ixora, and Genipa.</p> +<p>It is worthy of remark, that the range of Psychotria, which +has not been observed beyond the tropics in other countries, +extends in New South Wales as far south as the latitude of 35 +degrees; at the western extremity of which it does not appear to +exist.</p> +<p>CAPRIFOLIAE, Juss. The situation of Loranthus and Visvum, in +the system, appears to be undetermined by authors. M. Jussieu +associated them with Rhizophora, in the second section of this +order, from which Mr. Brown has separated this latter genus, and +with two others found in Terra Australis, has constructed a +distinct family, named Rhizophoreae; suggesting, at the same +time, the analogy of Loranthus and Viscum to Santalaceae, and +particularly to Proteaceae. The genus Loranthus, of which nearly +the whole of its described species have been limited to the +tropics, is, however, sparingly scattered on all the Coasts of +Australia, where about eleven species have been recently +observed, parasitical chiefly upon certain trees that constitute +the mass of the forests of that vast continent; namely, +Eucalyptus, Casuarina, Acacia, and Melaleuca.</p> +<p>A solitary and very remarkable deviation from the usual +natural economy of Loranthus, is observed in a species (L. +floribunda) described and figured by M. Labillardiere, which is +found on the shores of King George's Sound, where, in no way +recognising the dependent habits of its congeners, it rises from +the soil to a tree fifteen feet high, being never remarked +relying upon other vegetables for its subsistence. Viscum is +found in the colony of Port Jackson, to which it is not confined, +having been also gathered at Endeavour River, on the same coast, +within the tropic. The southern range of the two genera seems to +be nearly beyond the fortieth degree of latitude; but in the +northern hemisphere, Loranthus exists in Siberia.</p> +<p>UMBELLIFERAE. The equinoctial portion of the Herbarium +contains only three or four plants of this extensive European +order, belonging to Hydrocotyle, Azorella of Cavanilles and +Labillardiere (from which Trachymene of Rudge is probably not +distinct) and a suffruticose plant referred to Cussonia, that +have been collected upon the East Coast. Upon the north-western +shores, Azorella was alone remarked, of which a species is very +general upon its main and islands, and chiefly remarkable for its +gigantic herbaceous growth.</p> +<p>MYRTACEAE. With respect to that portion of Myrtaceae, lately +discovered upon the north-western shores of Australia, and which +are alone worthy of remark here, it is to be observed, that, +considering the many points of that coast visited during the +progress of the relative voyages, the number of species observed +are comparatively few, for, including Eucalyptus, it does not +exceed sixteen plants. Of Eucalyptus itself, only seven species +were detected on those shores, and these, for the most part, form +small trees, more approaching the average dimensions of all their +congeners in the colony of Port Jackson. Melaleuca is limited to +three species, one of which was originally discovered by the +celebrated navigator, Dampier, on the West Coast, where +Beaufortia has been recently seen. Four species of Tristania, +their related genus, were gathered in about latitude 15 degrees +South, where also an Eugenia, bearing fruit, was observed; but of +Leptospermum, or Baeckea, genera chiefly belonging to the higher +latitudes of New Holland, no species appeared throughout the +whole extent of coast examined.</p> +<p>RHAMNEAE and CELASTRINAE were formerly united among the Rhamni +of Jussieu, but disposed in sections, differing from each other +in the position of the stamina, with relation to the petals, and +in the character of the fruit; which, when viewed with other +important differences of fructification, induced Mr. Brown to +modify and define them as distinct orders.</p> +<p>In the Herbarium of the voyages, there are a few plants +belonging to Rhamnus, Ziziphus, Ceanothus, or Pomaderris, and +Celastrus, but both families prove to be comparatively rare in +the intratropical parts of Terra Australis, beyond which +Cryptandra seems only to exist. Upon the north-western shores, a +species of Ziziphus (common to the East and North Coasts) forms a +tree of large dimensions, where also an undescribed Celastrus has +been discovered. Since Pomaderris evidently increases from the +verge of the tropic southerly towards the parallel of Port +Jackson, where its maximum exists, and as it is frequent on the +South Coast, it is highly probable the West Coast is not wanting +of the genus, particularly as traces of it were found on Dirk +Hartog's Island.</p> +<p>LEGUMINOSEAE. There are upwards of one hundred and forty +species of this extensive natural class in the Herbarium recently +formed, which bear a proportion to the aggregate of the entire +collections of about one to nine.</p> +<p>Of the Australian portion of Mimoseae, which (having been met +with upon all the coasts of the continent, and equally diffused +in the interior) forms a leading characteristic of its +vegetation, upwards of fifty species have been collected, in +various stages of fructification; nearly the whole of which are +unpublished plants. Several of those discovered on the +north-western shores, and islands off the West Coast, being also +extremely curious in their general form and habits; and the +existence of a few appears limited to a solitary particular +situation, and no one species was observed common to those parts, +and the opposite or eastern shores of the continent.</p> +<p>The Papilionaceous division exceeds seventy species, +two-thirds of which belong to established diadelphous genera, +found chiefly within the tropic, where some, peculiar to Terra +Australis, and heretofore limited to the more temperate regions, +have been discovered. Thus Hovea and Bossiaea were detected in +New South Wales, in latitude 20 and 22 degrees South, as well as +on the North Coast; the latter genus being likewise found on the +north-western shores, where also two species of Kennedia exist; +and Templetonia, a genus nearly related to Bossiaea, originally +discovered on the southern shores of Australia, is abundant on an +island off the West Coast.</p> +<p>Upon the North-west Coast, particularly in the parallels of 14 +and 15 degrees South, where an exotic feature (if the usual +characteristic of the Flora of other countries might in this case +be so termed) is as manifest, and is as strongly blended with the +pure Australian character (Eucalyptus and Acacia) in its general +vegetation, as on any other parts of those shores; Jacksonia and +Gompholobium, genera of Papilionaceae, with distinct stamens, +almost limited to the parallel of Port Jackson and the South +Coast, were observed: Daviesia, almost wholly restricted to the +higher Australian latitudes, has been remarked on the North +Coast. Of Lomentaceae, Bauhinia, Caesalpinia, and the emigrant +genus Guilandina, are all of intratropical existence in New South +Wales, as also upon the North-west Coast; but Cassia, although it +has an equal extensive range in the equinoctial parts of New +Holland, has also been recently traced as far in the interior, on +the parallel of Port Jackson, as the meridian of 146 degrees +East.</p> +<p>EUPHORBIACEAE. The Herbarium contains thirty-three plants of +this very numerous order, whose maximum seems decidedly to exist +in India and equinoctial America. The whole of the Australian +species are referable to established Linnean genera, of which +Croton and Phyllanthus are most remarkable and numerous, existing +on all the intratropical shores of Terra Australis, but by no +means limited to them, both genera, together with Euphorbia and +Jatropha, being found in the parallel of Port Jackson; and Croton +exists likewise at the southern extreme of Van Diemen's Land, +which is probably the limit of the genus on that hemisphere.</p> +<p>A Tragia (scarcely distinct from a species indigenous in +India) is sparingly scattered on the East and North Coasts; and +Acalypha has been remarked on these, as well as the north-western +shores.</p> +<p>PITTOSPOREAE. Of this small family, whose characters and +limits were first described by Mr. Brown, there are sixteen +species in the Herbarium of these voyages, referable to Bursaria, +Billardiera, Pittosporum, and two unpublished genera.</p> +<p>Billardiera, whose species are wholly volubilous, and which +are not found north of the parallel of Port Jackson, is frequent +on the South-west Coast, and has been recently remarked on the +West Coast of Van Diemen's Land. Bursaria on the other hand, +appearing limited to New South Wales, has been traced within the +tropic to latitude 19 degrees South on those eastern shores, and +although the genus Pittosporum is even more extensively diffused +on that coast, it has not been met with upon the north-western +shores, whilst the islands off the West Coast furnished me with +two new species.</p> +<p>DIOSMEAE, although very frequent in the higher latitudes of +Terra Australis, where they are so frequent as to give a peculiar +character to their vegetable productions, is comparatively rare +within the tropic; for upon the East Coast Eriostemon and +Phebalium appear to be the only genera, the latter having been +recently discovered, in about latitude 20 degrees South.</p> +<p>With some undescribed species of Boronia, a new genus allied +to Eriostemon has been observed on the north-western shores, in +the parallel of 15 degrees South, having a remarkable pinnatified +fimbriated calyx.</p> +<p>Of the related family ZYGOPHYLLEAE (an order proposed by Mr. +Brown to be separated from the Rutaceae of Jussieu) Tribulus is +frequent on the tropical shores of New Holland, and a species of +Zygophyllum, with linear conjugate leaves and tetrapterous fruit, +was remarked upon an island off Shark's Bay, on the West +Coast.</p> +<p>MELIACEAE. The several genera of this order, whose maximum is +in the equinoctial parts of America, differ from each other in +the form of the remarkable cylindrical nectarium, the situation +or insertion of the antherae upon it, as well as the character of +its almost wholly capsular fruit. This structure of nectarium is +most striking in Turraea, of which a species was observed upon +the East Coast, far within the tropic; where also, as well as on +all the other equinoctial shores of the continent, Carapa, more +remarkable on account of the valvular character of its capsules, +and the magnitude and irregular figure of its nuts, is very +general, and probably not distinct from the plant (C. +moluccensis, Lam.) of Rumphius, who has given us a figure in his +Herbarium Amboinense volume 3 table 61, 62.</p> +<p>SAPINDACEAE. Of the very few plants referred to the family in +the Herbarium, two genera are only worthy of remark here, the one +an Ornitrophe, found on the East Coast, in about latitude 35 +degrees, as also within the tropic; and the other, which appears +to belong to Stadmannia, was discovered upon the same coast, in +latitude 31 degrees South, the type of the genus being the bois +de fer of the French colonists, a timber tree indigenous at the +Island of Mauritius.</p> +<p>MALVACEAE, Juss. Tiliaceae, Juss. Sterculiaceae, Vent. +Buttnericeae, Brown. These several families, of which the first +is by far the most extensive, have been viewed by Mr. Brown, as +so many allied orders of one natural class, to which the general +title of Malvaceae might be applied. About thirty-six species of +these orders collectively, are preserved in the present +Herbarium, referable at least to eleven genera, of which nine are +most abundant in (and form a characteristic feature of) the +botany of India, and the equinoctial parts of South America. +Fourteen species of Hibiscus and Sida were observed on the +intratropical Coasts of Australia, beyond which also, on the +opposite shores of the continent, each genus has been remarked. +One species of Bombax with polyandrous flowers, and subspherical +obtusely pentagonal capsules, was discovered upon the East Coast, +in about latitude 14 degrees South, and on nearly the western +extreme of the same parallel, it appeared much more abundant. Of +Sterculia which is scarcely to be found beyond the tropics in +other countries, a species exists in New South Wales in the +latitude of 34 degrees, on which parallel it is more frequent in +the western interior, and in that direction it has been traced to +the distance of three hundred miles from the sea-coast. The genus +is also found on the North and North-west Coasts, where the +species assume more particularly the habits of their congeners in +India. Among the plants of this family in the Herbarium is a +species of Helicteris (as the genus stands at present) which was +observed on the North-west Coast bearing fruit, wanting the +contortion that characterizes the genus.</p> +<p>This plant, together with three other described species, +having straight capsules, may hereafter be separated from that +Linnean genus, and constitute a new one of themselves. Grewia, +Corchorus, Triumfetta, and Waltheria, have been observed upon the +North-west Coast, where also Abroma, hitherto limited to the +tropical parts of New South Wales, has been discovered bearing +flowers and young fruit. One species of Commersonia was gathered +at widely-different parts of the north-western shores, and +Lasiopetalum, whose species are more general at both extremes of +the parallel of the colony of Port Jackson, has been also seen +just within the tropic on the East Coast, and at Dirk Hartog's +Island, off Shark's Bay, on the opposite shore.</p> +<p>CAPPARIDES. At least ten species of Capparis have been +discovered upon the coasts of Terra Australis, for the most part +within the tropic, but of these the fructification of two are +wanting. A few have been detected on the East Coast, but they are +more frequent and various in their species upon the north-western +shores of the continent. Within an area on this extensive coast, +not exceeding four degrees of longitude, on the parallel of 15 +degrees South, a tree of very remarkable growth and habit, has +been traced, having all the external form and bulk of Adansonia +of the western shores of Africa. At the respective period of +visiting those parts of the North-west Coast, this gouty tree had +previously cast its foliage of the preceding year, which is of +quinary insertion, but it bore ripe fruit, which is a large +elliptical pedicellated unilocalar capsule (a bacca corticosa) +containing many seeds enveloped in a dry pithy substance. Its +flowers, however, have never been discovered, but from the +characters of the fruit, it was (upon discovery) referred to this +natural family. M. Du Petit Thouars has formed a new genus of +Capparis pauduriformis of Lamarck, a plant of the Island of +Mauritius, which he has named Calyptranthus. It has one division +of the calyx so formed, that by its arcuated concavity (before +expansion) it conceals the whole flower, and the other portions +of the calyx; and should this genus be adopted by future +botanists, a second species has been recently discovered upon +Dirk Hartog's Island, although of remarkably different habit.</p> +<p>Cleome has been observed only in the equinoctial parts of +Australia, and like Capparis, several species exist on the +North-west Coast, being limited to C. viscosa in New South +Wales.</p> +<p>Drosera, which Jussieu associates with these genera is +generally diffused, being found within the tropic, at Endeavour +River, and on the North-west Coast; at Port Jackson, and at the +southern extremes of Van Diemen's Land.</p> +<p>DILLENIACEAE. To that Australian portion of the order lately +enumerated by M. Decandolle, the present Herbarium offers, in +addition, only two species of the genus Hemistemma of M. Du Petit +Thouars. The one discovered on the North-west Coast, and allied +to H. angustifolium of Mr. Brown; the other proving also new, but +approaching in character the doubtful species, H. leschenaultii +of Decandolle, and was discovered upon Rottnest Island, off the +western coast of the continent, and is the first certain species +of the genus, that is not limited to a tropical existence.</p> +<p>In addition to what has been advanced in respect to certain +natural orders that appear in the Herbarium, formed under the +stated circumstances, a slight mention might be made of other +detached genera, or families sparingly observed on these coasts, +that were more particularly investigated during the progress of +the late voyages; but as these several plants form portions of +orders so extremely limited, and in themselves presenting nothing +remarkable in their internal structure, or external habit, a few +remarks on a general comparison of the vegetation of the +North-west Coast, with the other shores of Terra Australis, will +conclude this notice.</p> +<p>It is very necessary to premise, that the plants observed and +collected upon the North-west Coast, during the late voyages, are +not to be considered as even a distant approach to an entire +Flora of that extensive line of shore; since the long-established +droughts of the seasons (as already remarked) in which the +greater part of that coast was visited, had wholly destroyed +plants of annual duration, with most of the Gramineae, and had +indeed generally affected the mass of its herbaceous vegetation. +The collections, therefore, can simply be viewed as a gleaning, +affording such general outlines of characteristic feature, as +will enable the botanist to trace its affinity to the more +minutely defined vegetation of the other equinoctial shores of +the continent, as well as perceive its general, and, in some +instances, almost total want of relation to the botany of other +parts, in the more temperate or higher latitudes, where certain +striking peculiarities of the Australian Flora more particularly +exist.</p> +<p>Upon a general comparison of those collections that were thus +formed on the North-west Coast, with the plants of the North and +East Coasts, aided also by some few observations made during the +voyages, it appears that (with the exception of Gompholobium, +Boronia, Kennedia, and one or two unpublished species not +referred to any family) the genera (of which several are proper +to India) are the same, although the species are very distinct +upon the several coasts.</p> +<p>Notwithstanding an identity of genera has been remarked upon +their opposite shores, there are, nevertheless, certain others, +frequent upon the East Coast, that appear wholly wanting on the +north-western shores: of these, the existence of some, even in +the tropical parts of New South Wales, seems governed by the +primary formation of the coast, its mountainous structure, and +consequent permanency of moisture in a greater or less degree; +namely, almost all the genera of Filices, the parasitical +Orchideae, Piper, Dracontium and Calladium (genera of Aroideae) +Commelina and Aneilema, Calamus and Seaforthia, Hellenia a +solitary Australian genus of Scitamineae, some genera of +Rubiaceae, particularly Psychotria and Coffea, certain genera of +Asphodeleae, as Cordyline, and a genus allied to it, whose +fructification is at length obtained, a solitary plant of +Melastomeae, and an individual Nymphea.</p> +<p>Other genera also, but little influenced by those local +circumstances of situation on the East Coast, that are excluded +from the opposite shores, are Leucopogon (the only equinoctial +genus of Epacrideae observed during the late voyages) the +families Bignoniaceae, Jasmineae, the genus Erythrina, and of +Coniferae, Araucaria of Norfolk Island. This absence of several +orders of plants on the north-western shores, existing in New +South Wales, or opposite coast, as well as the consideration (at +the same time) of the evident causes of such a disparity of +species on the former coast, would suggest the opinion, that such +plants alone of other parts of the continent are indigenous to +the North-west Coast, as are capable of sustaining themselves in +a soil subjected to seasons of protracted parching droughts. This +may apply to some species upon that coast, but it cannot be +reduced to a general conclusion; for, on the one hand, it is +singular so few of the plants of the South and South-west Coasts, +and particularly that none other of their genera of Proteaceae +(than those already mentioned) found altogether in an arid soil, +should have been discovered throughout any part of its extensive +shore; whilst, on the other hand, at a peculiar structure of a +small and limited portion of that coast, in the vicinity of York +Sound, a sufficiency of shade was observed to be actually +produced by the unusually broken character of the country, to +favour the nourishment and growth of certain plants alone to be +seen beneath the shade of dense forests. These species were +Myristica insipida, discovered by Mr. Brown, on one of the Prince +of Wales group of islands on the North Coast; Cryptocarya +triplinervis, Brown; bearing ripe fruit, Abroma fastuosa; and an +undescribed Eugenia.</p> +<p>Although the several genera of plants lately observed on the +north-western shores are also frequent in other equinoctial parts +of the continent, there is, among the many species which are +absolutely proper to that coast, a Capparis of such extraordinary +habit, as to form a feature in the landscape of a limited extent +of its shores, in the enormous bulk of its stem and general +ramification, bearing a striking analogy to the Adansonia of the +west coast of Africa.</p> +<p>The results of such observations on the vegetation as could +only be made in a general way, at parts approaching each extreme +of the North-west Coast, show their little affinity to each +other; for the northern extremity partakes more fully of that +feature of the line of coast contiguous to it, which (as already +remarked) extends along the north-western shores, declines +materially at, and in the vicinity of their southern limits, +where the characteristic vegetation of the south, and perhaps the +west, coasts has more particularly been found. Besides Eucalyptus +and Acacia, which are abundant on every shore, and generally +diffused throughout those parts of the interior that have been +penetrated, there is another genus almost equally dispersed, +which is, however, on the North-west Coast reduced to three +species. This is Dodonaea, whose maximum is certainly in New +South Wales, within and beyond the tropic, upon the coast, and +generally in the interior of the country, extending also to the +southern extremity of Van Diemen's Land.</p> +<p>Our very limited knowledge of the Flora of this vast continent +(excepting of a part east of longitude 144 degrees, and included +between the parallels of 31 and 35 degrees in New South Wales) is +entirely confined to the vegetation of its immediate shores, upon +every distinct coast of which, landings, more or less frequent, +and under various circumstances, have been effected; although of +all, very considerable portions remain unexplored, and of the +line of West Coast (properly so denominated) the shores of +Shark's Bay, and some few parts south of it, have alone been +scientifically investigated. The interior within the tropic +remains entirely in obscurity; the continental defect of a want +of large streams having a distant source, to aid a penetration to +the internal parts of the country, together with other effectual +obstacles, draw at present a veil, and forbid all research into +its Natural History and character, which will not be removed for +very considerable periods (perhaps ages) yet to come!</p> +<p>It was the general remark made during a former expedition in +the interior of New South Wales, that no absolutely entire change +takes place in the vegetation east of the meridian of the new +settlement named Bathurst; but that the plants of the coast were +more or less frequent at a hundred and fifty miles from the sea, +although in a country estimated at about two thousand feet above +its level. Having to this circumstance added a remarkable and +obvious sameness (arising from an extensive dispersion) of a vein +of vegetation in a large tract of country, it may be inquired, +how far these facts might, when applied to other parallels, +identify a certain portion of the Flora of the interior, and that +of the sea-coast in the same latitude; or, in other terms, how +far the botany of the coast indicates the general feature of the +vegetation to a certain limit, in the interior on the same +parallel? Favourable opportunities were afforded me, to compare +the vegetation of opposite coasts within the tropic, at the +eastern and western extremes of a particular parallel; and the +results of such a comparison identified many species on the two +coasts. I have annexed a list of those plants that are common to +the North-west and East Coasts in and about the parallel of 15 +degrees South, from a contemplation of which, together with the +above remarks, and a further comparison of the species with those +of the shores of the Gulf of Carpentaria, through which that +degree of latitude passes, might not a general idea of some +portion of the Flora of the expanse of intermediate interior (far +beyond the reach of actual investigation) be presumed?</p> +<p>A few observations relative to the geographical range of +certain genera and species, hitherto considerably circumscribed, +will close this notice.</p> +<p>The genus Pandanus has ever been viewed by botanists as +equinoctial; nor was it till recently ascertained satisfactorily, +that one of its species (P. pedunculatus, Brown) exists on the +shores of Port Macquarie in New South Wales, in latitude 31 +degrees South: and I have been credibly informed, that the same +plant is frequent in the vicinity of Port Stephens, which is at +least a degree to the southward of the above parallel. The +latitude of 32 degrees South may be considered the utmost extreme +of ranges from the equator of the genus in Terra Australis, on +the opposite shore of which, as also in all other countries, it +has not been remarked beyond the tropics.</p> +<p>The palms of Terra Australis, which (as previously observed) +are remarkably limited on the north-western shores, have a very +considerable diffusion on the North and East Coasts, and have +even a more general dispersion on the latter shores, than has +been allowed them formerly. Seaforthia is frequent in dense +forests on the East Coast, almost to latitude 35 degrees South, +where it exhibits all the tropical habits assumed on the northern +shores, although the difference of climate, and consequent +temperature, are abundantly obvious. On the other hand, a palm of +very robust growth, with large flabelliform fronds, and spinous +foot-stalks, was remarked at the head of Liverpool River, in +latitude 12 degrees South, on the North Coast; and although +without fructification, no doubt existed of its being the Corypha +australis, hitherto limited to the shores and vicinity of Port +Jackson.</p> +<p>Araucaria excelsa. The Norfolk Island pine, which, without +doubt, must have been particularly noticed by the celebrated +circumnavigator Captain Cook, in 1770, on the discovery of New +South Wales, although the circumstance of the very general +existence of a pine upon the islands and main of that coast, +north of the Percy Isles, does not appear to be mentioned in the +accounts of that particular voyage, has a far more extensive +range upon that shore than has been hitherto understood. During +the Mermaid's voyages, Araucaria was observed in the vicinity of +Mount Warning, in New South Wales, which lies in the parallel of +Norfolk Island (29 degrees South); thence northerly it was very +sparingly seen towards the tropic, within which, however, as far +as latitude 14 degrees, it is very abundant, forming upon several +islands the only timber. This is probably the nearest approach of +the species to the equinoctial line; and although it occupies an +area of nine hundred miles, it is very probably limited in Terra +Australis to its immediate shores; and, as appears to be the case +with Pandanus, exists only within the influence of the sea +air.</p> +<p>Calladium macrorhizon, Willd., formerly observed by Sir Joseph +Banks, at Endeavour River, on the East Coast, has been recently +detected in moist woods, in the country off which the Five +Islands are situate, extending on that shore to latitude 35 +degrees South: and Schelhammera multiflora, Br., a delicate plant +of Melanthaceae, discovered likewise at Endeavour River, abounds +in shady forests, in latitude 31 degrees, upon the same extensive +coast.</p> +<p>The following plants, formerly considered as indigenous only +in Van Diemen's Land, have been recently ascertained to exist +also in New South Wales, in or about the parallel of the colony +of Port Jackson.</p> +<p>Croton viscosum, Labill., originally discovered on the +South-west Coast, was seen in the interior, as far to the +westward of the colony as longitude 146 degrees East.</p> +<p>Croton quadripartitum, Labill., was observed in longitude 148 +degrees.</p> +<p>Goodia latifolia, Salisb., was remarked sparingly in the +interior, in the meridian of 147 degrees 30 minutes East: and +Daviesia latifolia of Mr. Brown is very frequent in societies +upon plains at Bathurst, in longitude 149 degrees East, where +also Eryngium vesiculosum, of Labillardiere, was observed.</p> +<p>Aster argophyllus and obovatus, Labill. These two species were +described by Mons. Labillardiere, from specimens gathered in the +southern extremes of the above island, and have been lately seen +tolerably frequent in a remarkable tract of country, in latitude +34 degrees, on the limit of the colony, where the former assumes +a robust, arborescent habit. Aster phlogopappus, of the same +eminent author, was recently remarked upon the more elevated +parts of the Blue Mountain Range, on the margin of a remarkable +cataract.</p> +<hr align="center" width="20%"> +<h3>A LIST OF PLANTS COMMON TO THE EAST AND NORTH-WEST COASTS OF +TERRA AUSTRALIS, IN AND ABOUT THE PARALLEL OF FIFTEEN DEGREES +SOUTH, WHERE THE BREADTH OF CONTINENT EXCEEDS 1800 MILES.</h3> +<p>Gleichenia Hermanni, Br.<br> +Eriocaulon fistulosum, Br.<br> +Philydrum lanuginosum, Gaertn.<br> +Flagellaria indica, L.<br> +Dioscorea bulbifera, L.<br> +*? Pandanus pedunculatus, Br.<br> +Cycas angulata, Br.<br> +Santalum oblongatum, Br.<br> +Exocarpus latifolia, Br.<br> +Persoonia falcata, Br.<br> +Grevillea mimosoides, Br.<br> +Hakea arborescens, Br.<br> +Buchnera ramosissima, Br.<br> +Adenosma coerulea, Br.<br> +Orthostemon erectum, Br.<br> +Tabernaemontana orientalis, Br.<br> +Carissa ovata, Br.<br> +Strychnos lucida, Br.<br> +Alyxia obtusifolia, Br.<br> +Ipomoea longifiora, Br.<br> +Ipomoea denticulata, Br.<br> +Ipomoea maritima, Br.<br> +Evolvulus villosus, R. et Pav.<br> +Cuscuta carinata, Br.<br> +Cordia orientalis, Br.<br> +* Clerodendrum inerme, Br.<br> +* Avicennia tomentosa, L.<br> +Chionanthus axillaris, Br.<br> +Olea paniculata, Br.<br> +Maba laurina, Br.<br> +Sersalisia obovata, Br.<br> +Mimusops parvifolia, Br.<br> +Terminalia, sp. allied to Catappa, Lam.<br> +Cleome viscosa, L.<br> +Capparis sepiaria, L.<br> +Hibiscus tiliaceus, L.<br> +Abroma fastuosa, Br.<br> +Bombax australis.<br> +Jacksonia thesioides.<br> +Bauhiniae sp.<br> +Caesalpiniae sp.<br> +Cassia occidentalis, L.<br> +Guilandina Bonduc, L.<br> +Morinda citrifolia, L.<br> +* Carapa moluccensis, Lam.<br> +Zizyphus melastomoides.<br> +* Bruguiera gymnorhiza, Lam.<br> +Casuarina equisetifolia, Lam.</p> +<p>Should the botany of the shores of the Gulf of Carpentaria, in +the vicinity of those parts, through which the above parallels +pass, generally correspond (on comparison) with the above list, +it is more than probable that these several species occupy +portions of the intermediate interior bounded by the meridians of +125 and 145 degrees East; those plants excepted, having an +asterisk prefixed to them, which as forming mangroves, or from +other causes exist only on the sea shore.</p> +<hr align="center" width="20%"> +<h3>A LIST OF PLANTS OBSERVED DURING THE LATE VOYAGES ON THE +SHORES OF TERRA AUSTRALIS, THAT ARE ALSO COMMON TO INDIA OR SOUTH +AMERICA.</h3> +<p>Acrostichum alcicorne, Sw.<br> +Polypodium acrostichoides, Sw.<br> +Nephrodium exaltatum, Br.<br> +Nephrodium unitum, Br.<br> +Vittaria elongata, Sw.<br> +Asplenium nidus, L.<br> +Daval1ia flaccida, Br.<br> +Gleichenia Hermanni, Br.<br> +Flagellaria indica, L.<br> +Dioscorea bulbifera, L.<br> +Calladium ? macrorhizon, Willd.<br> +Aristolochia indica, L.<br> +Daphne indica, L.<br> +Salicornia indica, Willd.<br> +Deeringia celosioides, Br.<br> +Plumbago zeylanica, L.<br> +Dischidia nummularifolia, Br.<br> +Acanthus ilicifolius, L.<br> +Acanthus ebracteatus, L.<br> +Ipomea Turpethum, Br.<br> +Ipomea denticulata, Br.<br> +Ipomea maritima, Br.<br> +Evolvulus villosus, R. et Pav.<br> +Trichodesma zeylanica, Br.<br> +Tournefortia argentea, L.<br> +Cordia orientalis, Br.<br> +Plectranthus scutellarioides, Br.<br> +Clerodendrum inerme, Br.<br> +Vitex ovata, L.<br> +Vitex trifolia, L.<br> +Avicennia tomentosa, L.<br> +Mimusops kauki, L.<br> +Aegiceras fragrans, C. Koenig.<br> +Scaevola koenigii, Vahl.<br> +Cleome viscosa, L.<br> +Capparis sepiaria, L. ?<br> +Calophyllum inophyllum, L.<br> +Morinda citrifolia, L.<br> +Carapa moluccensis, Lam.<br> +Sophora tomentosa, L.<br> +Cassia occidentalis, L.<br> +Guilandina bonduc, L.<br> +Abrus precatorius, L.<br> +? Acacia scandens, Willd. ?<br> +Hibiscus tiliaceus, L.<br> +Suriana maritima, Jacqu.<br> +Pemphis acida, Forst.<br> +Rhizophora mangle, L. ?<br> +Bruguiera gymnorhiza, Lam.<br> +Sonneratia acida, L.<br> +Abroma fastuosa, Br.<br> +Casuarina equisetifolia, Forst.</p> +<hr align="center" width="20%"> +<h3>CHARACTER AND DESCRIPTION OF KINGIA, A NEW GENUS OF PLANTS +FOUND ON THE SOUTH-WEST COAST OF NEW HOLLAND: WITH OBSERVATIONS +ON THE STRUCTURE OF ITS UNIMPREGNATED OVULUM; AND ON THE FEMALE +FLOWER OF CYCADEAE AND CONIFERAE.</h3> +<p align="center">BY ROBERT BROWN, ESQUIRE, F.R.S.S.L. AND E. +F.L.S.</p> +<p>(READ BEFORE THE LINNEAN SOCIETY OF LONDON, NOVEMBER 1 AND 15, +1825.)</p> +<p>In the Botanical Appendix to the Voyage to Terra Australis, I +have mentioned a plant of very remarkable appearance, observed in +the year 1801, near the shores of King George the Third's Sound, +in Mr. Westall's view of which, published in Captain Flinders' +Narrative, it is introduced.</p> +<p>The plant in question was then found with only the imperfect +remains of fructification: I judged of its affinities, therefore, +merely from its habit, and as in this respect it entirely agrees +with Xanthorrhoea, included the short notice given of it in my +remarks on Asphodeleae, to which that genus was referred.* Mr. +Cunningham, the botanist attached to Captain King's voyages, who +examined the plant in the same place of growth, in February, +1818, and in December, 1821, was not more fortunate than myself. +Captain King, however, in his last visit to King George's Sound, +in November, 1822, observed it with ripe seeds: and at length Mr. +William Baxter, whose attention I had particularly directed to +this plant, found it, on the shores of the same port in 1823, +both in flower and fruit. To this zealous collector, and to his +liberal employer, Mr. Henchman, I am indebted for complete +specimens of its fructification, which enable me to establish it +as a genus distinct from any yet described.</p> +<blockquote>(*Footnote. Flinders Voyage volume 2 page +576.)</blockquote> +<p>To this new genus I have given the name of my friend Captain +King, who, during his important surveys of the Coasts of New +Holland, formed valuable collections in several departments of +Natural History, and on all occasions gave every assistance in +his power to Mr. Cunningham, the indefatigable botanist who +accompanied him. The name is also intended as a mark of respect +to the memory of the late Captain Philip Gidley King, who, as +Governor of New South Wales, materially forwarded the objects of +Captain Flinders' voyage; and to whose friendship Mr. Ferdinand +Bauer and myself were indebted for important assistance in our +pursuits while we remained in that colony.</p> +<p>KINGIA.</p> +<p>ORD. NAT. Junceae prope Dasypogon, Calectasiam et Xerotem.</p> +<p>CHAR. GEN. Perianthium sexpartitum, regulare, glumaceum, +persistens. Stamina sex, fera hypogyna: Antheris basi affixis. +Ovarium triloculare, loculis monospermis; ovulis adscendentibus. +Stylus 1. Stigma tridentatum. Pericarpium exsuccum, indehiscens, +monospermum, perianthio scarioso cinctum.</p> +<p>Planta facie Xanthorrhoeae elatioris. Caudex arhorescens +cicatricibus basibusve foliorum exasperatus? Folia caudicem +terminantia confertissima longissima, figura et dispositione +Xanthorrhoeae. Pedunculi numerosi foliis breviores, bracteis +vaginantibus imbricatis tecti, floriferi terminales erecti, mox, +caudice parum elongato foliisque novellis productis, laterales, +et divaricati vel deflexi, terminati capitulo denso globoso +floribus tribracteatis.</p> +<p>Kingia australis. Table C.</p> +<p>DESC. Caudex arborescens erectus simplicissimus cylindraceus, +6-18-pedes altus, crassitie femoris. Folia caudicem terminantia +numerosissima patula, apicibus arcuato-recurvis, lorea, solida, +ancipitia apice teretiusculo, novella undique tecta pilis +adpressis strictis acutis laevibus, angulis lateralibus et +ventrali retrorsum scabris. Pedunculi numerosi teretes +8-12-pollicares crassitie digiti, vaginis integris brevibus +imbricatis hinc in foliolum subulatum productis tecti. Capitulum +globosum, floridum magnitudine pruni minoris, fructiferum pomum +parvum aequans. Flores undique dense imbricati, tribracteati, +sessiles. Bractea exterior lanceolata breve acuminata planiuscula +erecta, extus villosa intus glabra, post lapsum fructus +persistens: duae laterales angusto-naviculares, acutissimae, +carina lateribusque villosis, longitudine fere exterioris, simul +cum perianthio fructifero, separatim tamen, dilabentibus. +Perianthium sexpartitum regulare subaequale glumaceum: foliola +lanceolata acutissima disco nervoso nervis immersis +simplicissimis, antica et postica plana, lateralia complicata +lateribus inaequalibus, omnia basi subangustata, extus +longitudinaliter sed extra medium praecipue villosa, intus +glaberrima, aestivatione imbricata. Stamina sex subaequalia, +aestivatione stricta filamentis sensim elongantibus: Filamenta +fere hypogyna ipsis basibus foliolorum perianthii quibus opposita +leviter adhaerentia, filiformia glabra teretia: Antherae stantes, +ante dehiscentiam lineares obtusae filamento paulo latiores, +defloratae subulatae vix crassitie filamenti, loculis +parallelo-contiguis connectivo dorsali angusto adnatis, axi +ventrali longitudinaliter dehiscentibus, lobulis baseos brevibus +acutis subadnatis: Pollen simplex breve ovale laeve. Pistillum: +Ovarium sessile disco nullo squamulisve cinctum, lanceolatum +trigono-anceps villosum, triloculare, loculis monospermis. Ovula +erecta fundo anguli interioris loculi paulo supra basin suam +inserta, obovata lenticulari-compressa, aptera: Testa in ipsa +basi acutiuscula foramine minuto perforata: Membrana interna +respectu testae inversa, hujusce nempe apici lata basi inserta, +ovata apice angustato aperto foramen testae obturante: Nucleus +cavitate membranae conformis, ejusdem basi insertus, caeterum +liber, pulposus solidus, apice acutiusculo laevi aperturam +membranae internae attingente. Stylus trigonus strictus, infra +villosus, dimidio superiore glabro, altitudine staminum, iisdem +paulo praecocior, exsertus nempe dum illa adhuc inclusa. Stigmata +tria brevissima acuta denticuliformia. Pericarpium exsuccum, +indehiscens, villosum, basi styli aristatum, perianthio scarioso +et filamentis emarcidis cinctum, abortione monospermum. Semen +turgidum obovatum retusum, integumento (testa) simplici +membranaceo aqueo-pallido, bine (intus) fere a basi acutiuscula, +raphe fusca verticem retusum attingente ibique in chalazam parvam +concolorem ampliata. Albumen semini conforme dense carnosum +album. Embryo monocotyledoneus, aqueo-pallidus subglobosus, +extremitate inferiore (radiculari) acuta, in ipsa basi seminis +situs, semi-immersus, nec albumine omnino inclusus.</p> +<p>Table C. figure 1. Kingiae australis pedunculus capitulo +florido terminatus; figure 2, capitulum fructiferum; 3, sectio +transversalis pedunculi: 4, folium: hae magnitudine naturali, +sequentes omnes plus minus auctae sunt; 5, flos; 6, stamen; 7, +anthera antice et, 8, eadem postice visa; 9, pistillum; 10, +ovarii sectio transversalis; 11, ejusdem portio longitudinaliter +secta exhibens ovulum adscendens cavitatem loculi replens; 12, +ovulum ita longitudinaliter sectum ut membrana interna solummodo +ejusque insertio in apice cavitatis testae visa sit; 13, ovuli +sectio longitudinalis profundius ducta exhibens membranam +internam et nucleum ex ejusdem basi ortum; 14, bracteae capituli +fructiferi; 15, pericarpium perianthio filamentisque +persistentibus cinctum; 16, pericarpium perianthio avulso +filamentorum basibus relictis; 17, semen.</p> +<p>OBS. 1.</p> +<p>It remains to be ascertained, whether in this genus a resin is +secreted by the bases of the lower leaves, as in Xanthorrhoea; +and whether, which is probable, it agrees also in the internal +structure of its stem with that genus. In Xanthorrhoea the +direction of fibres or vessels of the caudex seems at first sight +to resemble in some degree the dicotyledonous arrangement, but in +reality much more nearly approaches to that of Dracaena draco, +allowance being made for the greater number, and extreme +narrowness of leaves, to which all the radiating vessels +belong.*</p> +<blockquote>(*Footnote. My knowledge of this remarkable structure +of Xanthorrhoea is chiefly derived from specimens of the caudex +of one of the larger species of the genus, brought from Port +Jackson, and deposited in the collection at the Jardin du Roi of +Paris by M. Gaudichaud, the very intelligent botanist who was +attached to Captain De Freycinet's voyage.)</blockquote> +<p>OBS. 2.</p> +<p>I have placed Kingia in the natural order Junceae along with +Dasypogon, Calectasia and Xerotes, genera peculiar to New +Holland, and of which the two former have hitherto been observed +only, along with it, on the shores of King George's Sound.</p> +<p>The striking resemblance of Kingia, in caudex and leaves, to +Xanthorrhoea, cannot fail to suggest its affinity to that genus +also. Although this affinity is not confirmed by a minute +comparison of the parts of fructification, a sufficient agreement +is still manifest to strengthen the doubts formerly expressed of +the importance of those characters, by which I attempted to +define certain families of the great class Liliaceae.</p> +<p>In addition, however, to the difference in texture of the +outer coat of the seed, and in those other points, on which I +then chiefly depended in distinguishing Junceae from Asphodeleae, +a more important character in Junceae exists in the position of +the embryo, whose radicle points always to the base of the seed, +the external umbilicus being placed in the axis of the inner or +ventral surface, either immediately above the base as in Kingia, +or towards the middle, as in Xerotes.</p> +<p>OBS. 3.</p> +<p>ON THE STRUCTURE OF THE UNIMPREGNATED OVULUM IN PHAENOGAMOUS +PLANTS.</p> +<p>The description which I have given of the Ovulum of Kingia, +though essentially different from the accounts hitherto published +of that organ before fecundation, in reality agrees with its +ordinary structure in Phaenogamous plants.</p> +<p>I shall endeavour to establish these two points; namely, the +agreement of this description with the usual structure of the +Ovulum, and its essential difference from the accounts of other +observers, as briefly as possible at present; in tending +hereafter to treat the subject at greater length, and also with +other views.</p> +<p>I have formerly more than once* adverted to the structure of +the Ovulum, chiefly as to the indications it affords, even before +fecundation, of the place and direction of the future Embryo. +These remarks, however, which were certainly very brief, seem +entirely to have escaped the notice of those authors who have +since written on the same subject.</p> +<blockquote>(*Footnote. Flinders Voyage 2 page 601, and Linnean +Society Transactions 12 page page 136.)</blockquote> +<p>In the Botanical Appendix to the account of Captain Flinders' +Voyage, published in 1814, the following description of the +Ovulum of Cephalotus follicularis is given: Ovulum erectum, intra +testam membranaceam continens sacculum pendulum, magnitudine +cavitatis testae, and in reference to this description, I have in +the same place remarked that, "from the structure of the Ovulum, +even in the unimpregnated state, I entertain no doubt that the +radicle of the Embryo points to the umbilicus."*</p> +<blockquote>(*Footnote. Flinders Voyage loc. cit.)</blockquote> +<p>My attention had been first directed to this subject in 1809, +in consequence of the opinion I had then formed of the function +of the Chalaza in seeds;* and sometime before the publication of +the observation now quoted, I had ascertained that in +Phaenogamous plants the unimpregnated Ovulum very generally +consisted of two concentric membranes, or coats, enclosing a +Nucleus of a pulpy cellular texture. I had observed also, that +the inner coat had no connexion either with the outer or with the +nucleus, except at its origin; and that with relation to the +outer coat it was generally inverted, while it always agreed in +direction with the nucleus. And, lastly, that at the apex of the +nucleus the radicle of the future Embryo would constantly be +found.</p> +<blockquote>(*Footnote. Linnean Society Transactions 10 page +35.)</blockquote> +<p>On these grounds my opinion respecting the Embryo of +Cephalotus was formed. In describing the Ovulum in this genus, I +employed, indeed, the less correct term sacculus, which, however, +sufficiently expressed the appearance of the included body in the +specimens examined, and served to denote my uncertainty in this +case as to the presence of the inner membrane.</p> +<p>I was at that time also aware of the existence, in several +plants, of a foramen in the coats of the Ovulum, always distinct +from, and in some cases diametrically opposite to the external +umbilicus, and which I had in no instance found cohering either +directly with the parietes of the Ovarium, or with any process +derived from them. But, as I was then unable to detect this +foramen in many of the plants which I had examined, I did not +attach sufficient importance to it; and in judging of the +direction of the Embryo, entirely depended on ascertaining the +apex of the nucleus, either directly by dissection, or indirectly +from the vascular cord of the outer membrane: the termination of +this cord affording a sure indication of the origin of the inner +membrane, and consequently of the base of the nucleus, the +position of whose apex is therefore readily determined.</p> +<p>In this state of my knowledge the subject was taken up in +1818, by my lamented friend the late Mr. Thomas Smith, who, +eminently qualified for an investigation where minute accuracy +and great experience in microscopical observation were necessary, +succeeded in ascertaining the very general existence of the +foramen in the membranes of the Ovulum. But as the foramina in +these membranes invariably correspond both with each other and +with the apex of the nucleus, a test of the direction of the +future Embryo was consequently found nearly as universal, and +more obvious than that which I had previously employed.</p> +<p>To determine in what degree this account of the vegetable +Ovulum differs from those hitherto given, and in some measure, +that its correctness may be judged of, I shall proceed to state +the various observations that have been actually made, and the +opinions that have been formed on the subject, as briefly as I am +able, taking them in chronological order.</p> +<p>In 1672, Grew* describes in the outer coat of the seeds of +many Leguminous plants a small foramen, placed opposite to the +radicle of the Embryo, which, he adds, is "not a hole casually +made, or by the breaking off of the stalk," but formed for +purposes afterwards stated to be the aeration of the Embryo, and +facilitating the passage of its radicle in germination. It +appears that he did not consider this foramen in the testa as +always present, the functions which he ascribes to it being +performed in cases where it is not found, either, according to +him, by the hilum itself, or in hard fruits, by an aperture in +the stone or shell.</p> +<blockquote>(*Footnote. Anatomy of Veget. begun page 3. Anatomy +of Plants page 2.)</blockquote> +<p>In another part of his work* he describes and figures, in the +early state of the Ovulum, two coats, of which the outer is the +testa; the other, his middle membrane, is evidently what I have +termed nucleus, whose origin in the Ovulum of the Apricot he has +distinctly represented and described.</p> +<blockquote>(*Footnote. Anatomy of Plants page 210 table +80.)</blockquote> +<p>Malpighi, in 1675,* gives the same account of the early state +of the Ovulum; his secundinae externae being the testa, and his +chorion the nucleus. He has not, however, distinguished, though +he appears to have seen, the foramen of Grew, from the fenestra +and fenestella, and these, to which he assigns the same +functions, are merely his terms for the hilum.</p> +<blockquote>(*Footnote. Anatome Plant. page 75 et +80.)</blockquote> +<p>In 1694, Camerarius, in his admirable essay on the sexes of +plants,* proposes, as queries merely, various modes in which +either the entire grains of pollen, or their particles after +bursting, may be supposed to reach and act upon the unimpregnated +Ovula, which he had himself carefully observed. With his usual +candour, however, he acknowledges his obligation on this subject +to Malpighi, to whose more detailed account of them he +refers.</p> +<blockquote>(*Footnote. Rudolphi Jacobi Camerarii de sexu +plantarum epistola page 8 46 et seq.)</blockquote> +<p>Mr. Samuel Morland, in 1703,* in extending Leeuwenhoek's +hypothesis of generation to plants, assumes the existence of an +aperture in the Ovulum, through which it is impregnated. It +appears, indeed, that he had not actually observed this aperture +before fecundation, but inferred its existence generally and at +that period, from having, as he says, "discovered in the seeds of +beans, peas, and Phaseoli, just under one end of what we call the +eye, a manifest perforation, which leads directly to the seminal +plant," and by which he supposes the Embryo to have entered. This +perforation is evidently the foramen discovered in the seeds of +Leguminous plants by Grew, of whose observations respecting it he +takes no notice, though he quotes him in another part of his +subject.</p> +<blockquote>(*Footnote. Philosophical Transactions volume 23 n. +287 page 1474.)</blockquote> +<p>In 1704, Etienne Francois Geoffroy,* and in 1711, his brother +Claude Joseph Geoffroy,** in support of the same hypothesis, +state the general existence of an aperture in the unimpregnated +vegetable Ovulum. It is not, however, probable that these authors +had really seen this aperture in the early state of the Ovulum in +any case, but rather that they had merely advanced from the +observation of Grew, and the conjecture founded on it by Morland, +whose hypothesis they adopt without acknowledgment, to the +unqualified assertion of its existence, in all cases. For it is +to be remarked, that they take no notice of what had previously +been observed or asserted on the more important parts of their +subject, while several passages are evidently copied, and the +whole account of the original state and development of the Ovulum +is literally translated from Camerarius' Essay. Nor does the +younger Geoffroy mention the earlier publication of his brother, +from which his own memoir is in great part manifestly +derived.</p> +<blockquote>(*Footnote. Quaestio Medica an Hominis primordia +Vermis? in auctoris Tractatu de Materia Medica tome 1 page +123.)</blockquote> +<blockquote>(**Footnote. Mem. de l'Acad. des Sc. de Paris 1711 +page 210.)</blockquote> +<p>In 1718; Vaillant,* who rejects the vermicular hypothesis of +generation, supposes the influence of the Pollen to consist in an +aura, conveyed by the tracheae of the style to the ovula, which +it enters, if I rightly understand him, by the funiculus +umbilicalis: at the same time he seems to admit the existence of +the aperture in the coat.</p> +<blockquote>(*Footnote. Discours sur la Structure des Fleurs page +20.)</blockquote> +<p>In 1745, Needham,* and in 1770, Gleichen,** adopt the +hypothesis of Morland, somewhat modified, however, as they +consider the particles in the grains of Pollen, not the grains +themselves, to be the embryos, and that they enter the ovula by +the umbilical cord.</p> +<blockquote>(*Footnote. New Microscopical Discoveries page +60.)</blockquote> +<blockquote>(**Footnote. Observ. Microscop. page 45 et 61 +paragraph 118.)</blockquote> +<p>Adanson, in 1763,* states the Embryo to exist before +fecundation, and that it receives its first excitement from a +vapour or aura proceeding from the Pollen, conveyed to it through +the tracheae of the style, and entering the Ovulum by the +umbilical cord.</p> +<blockquote>(*Footnote. Fam. des Plant. tom. 1 page +121.)</blockquote> +<p>Spallanzani,* who appears to have carefully examined the +unimpregnated Ovula of a considerable variety of plants, found it +in general to be a homogeneous, spongy, or gelatinous body; but +in two Cucurbitaceae to consist of a nucleus surrounded by three +coats. Of these coats he rightly supposes the outermost to be +merely the epidermis of the middle membrane or testa. Of the +relative direction of the testa and inner coat in the two plants +in question he takes no notice, nor does he in any case mention +an aperture in the Ovulum.</p> +<blockquote>(*Footnote. Fisica Anim. e Veget. tome 3 page 309 to +332.)</blockquote> +<p>Gaertner, who, in the preface to his celebrated work, displays +great erudition in every branch of his subject, can hardly, +however, be considered an original observer in this part. He +describes the unimpregnated Ovulum as a pulpy homogeneous +globule, whose epidermis, then scarcely distinguishable, +separates in a more advanced stage, and becomes the testa of the +seed, the inner membrane of which is entirely the product of +fecundation.* He asserts also that the Embryo constantly appears +at that point of the ovulum where the ultimate branches of the +umbilical vessels perforate the inner membrane; and therefore +mistakes the apex for the base of the nucleus.</p> +<blockquote>(*Footnote. Gaert. de Fruct. et Sem. 1 page 57, 59 et +61.)</blockquote> +<p>In 1806 Mons. Turpin* published a memoir on the organ, by +which the fecundating fluid is introduced into the vegetable +ovulum. The substance of this memoir is, that in all Phaenogamous +plants fecundation takes place through a cord or fasciculus of +vessels entering the outer coat of the ovulum, at a point +distinct from, but at the period of impregnation closely +approximated to the umbilicus, and to the cicatrix of this cord, +which itself is soon obliterated, he gives the name of Micropyle: +that the ovulum has two coats, each having its proper umbilicus, +or, as he terms it, omphalode; that these coats in general +correspond in direction; that more rarely the inner membrane is, +with relation to the outer, inverted; and that towards the origin +of the inner membrane the radicle of the embryo uniformly +points.</p> +<blockquote>(*Footnote. Annal. du Mus. d'Hist. Nat. 7 page +199.)</blockquote> +<p>It is singular that a botanist, so ingenious and experienced +as M. Turpin, should, on this subject, instead of appealing in +every case to the unimpregnated ovulum, have apparently contented +himself with an examination of the ripe seed. Hence, however, he +has formed an erroneous opinion of the nature and origin, and in +some plants of the situation, of the micropyle itself, and hence +also he has in all cases mistaken the apex for the base of the +nucleus.</p> +<p>A minute examination of the early state of the ovulum does not +seem to have entered into the plan of the late celebrated M. +Richard, when in 1808 he published his valuable and original +Analyse du Fruit. The ovulum has, according to him, but one +covering, which in the ripe seed he calls episperm. He considers +the centre of the hilum as the base, and the chalaza, where it +exists, as the natural apex of the seed.</p> +<p>M. Mirbel, in 1815, though admitting the existence of the +foramen or micropyle of the testa,* describes the ovulum as +receiving by the hilum both nourishing and fecundating vessels,** +and as consisting of a uniform parenchyma, in which the embryo +appears at first a minute point, gradually converting more or +less of the surrounding tissue into its own substance; the coats +and albumen of the seed being formed of that portion which +remains.***</p> +<blockquote>(*Footnote. Elem. de Physiol. Veg. et de Bot. tome 1 +page 49.)</blockquote> +<blockquote>(**Footnote. Id. tome 1 page 314.)</blockquote> +<blockquote>(***Footnote. Id. loc. cit.)</blockquote> +<p>In the same year, M. Auguste de Saint Hilaire,* shows that the +micropyle is not always approximated to the umbilicus; that in +some plants it is situated at the opposite extremity of the +ovulum, and that in all cases it corresponds with the radicle of +the embryo. This excellent botanist, at the same time, adopts M. +Turpin's opinion, that the micropyle is the cicatrix of a +vascular cord, and even gives instances of its connexion with the +parietes of the ovarium; mistaking, as I believe, contact, which +in some plants unquestionably takes place, and in one family, +namely, Plumbagineae, in a very remarkable manner, but only after +a certain period, for original cohesion, or organic connexion, +which I have not met with in any case.</p> +<blockquote>(*Footnote. Mem. du Mus. d'Hist. Nat. 2 page 270 et +seq.)</blockquote> +<p>In 1815 also appeared the masterly dissertation of Professor +Ludolf Christian Treviranus, on the development of the vegetable +embryo,* in which he describes the ovulum before fecundation as +having two coats: but of these, his inner coat is evidently the +middle membrane of Grew, the chorion of Malpighi, or what I have +termed nucleus.</p> +<blockquote>(*Footnote. Entwick. des Embryo im +Pflanzen-Ey.)</blockquote> +<p>In 1822, Mons. Dutrochet, unacquainted, as it would seem, with +the dissertation of Professor Treviranus, published his +observations on the same subject.* In what regards the structure +of the ovulum, he essentially agrees with that author, and has +equally overlooked the inner membrane.</p> +<blockquote>(*Footnote. Mem. du Mus. d'Hist. Nat. tome 8 page 241 +et seq.)</blockquote> +<p>It is remarkable that neither of these observers should have +noticed the foramen in the testa. And as they do not even mention +the well-known essays of MM. Turpin and Auguste de St. Hilaire on +the micropyle, it may be presumed that they were not disposed to +adopt the statements of these authors respecting it.</p> +<p>Professor Link, in his Philosophia Botanica, published in +1824, adopts the account given by Treviranus, of the coats of the +ovulum before impregnation:* and of M. Turpin, as to the +situation of the micropyle, and its being the cicatrix of a +vascular cord. Yet he seems not to admit the function ascribed to +it, and asserts that it is in many cases wanting.**</p> +<blockquote>(*Footnote. Elem. Philos. Bot. page +338.)</blockquote> +<blockquote>(**Footnote. Id. page 340.)</blockquote> +<p>The account which I have given of the structure of the +vegetable ovulum, differs essentially from all those now quoted, +and I am not acquainted with any other observations of importance +respecting it.</p> +<p>Of the authors referred to, it may be remarked, that those who +have most particularly attended to the ovulum externally, have +not always examined it at a sufficiently early period, and have +confined themselves to its surface: that those who have most +minutely examined its internal structure, have trusted too much +to sections merely, and have neglected its appearance externally: +and that those who have not at all examined it in the early +stage, have given the most correct account of its surface. This +account was founded on a very limited observation of ripe seeds, +generalized and extended to the unimpregnated ovulum, in +connexion with an hypothesis then very commonly received: but +this hypothesis being soon after abandoned, their statement +respecting the ovulum was rejected along with it.</p> +<p>In the ovulum of Kingia, the inner membrane, with relation to +the external umbilicus, is inverted; and this, as I have already +observed, though in direct opposition to M. Turpin's account, is +the usual structure of the organ. There are, however, several +families in each of the two primary divisions of phaenogamous +plants, in which the inner membrane, and consequently the +nucleus, agrees in direction with the testa. In such cases the +external umbilicus alone affords a certain indication of the +position of the future embryo.</p> +<p>It is an obvious consequence of what has been already stated, +that the radicle of the embryo can never point directly to the +external umbilicus or hilum, though this is said to be generally +the case by the most celebrated carpologists.</p> +<p>Another observation may be made, less obviously a consequence +of the structure described, but equally at variance with many of +the published accounts and figures of seeds, namely, that the +radicle is never absolutely enclosed in the albumen; but, in the +recent state, is either immediately in contact with the inner +membrane of the seed, or this contact is established by means of +a process generally very short, but sometimes of great length, +and which indeed in all cases may be regarded as an elongation of +its own substance. From this rule I have found one apparent +deviation, but in a case altogether so peculiar, that it can +hardly be considered as setting it aside.</p> +<p>It is necessary to observe, that I am acquainted with +exceptions to the structure of the ovulum as I have here +described it, In Compositae its coats seem to be imperforated, +and hardly separable, either from each other or from the nucleus, +in this family, therefore, the direction of the embryo can only +be judged of from the vessels of the testa.* And in Lemna I have +found an apparent inversion of the embryo with relation to the +apex of the nucleus. In this genus, however, such other +peculiarities of structure and economy exist, that, paradoxical +as the assertion may seem, I consider the exception rather as +confirming than lessening the importance of the character.</p> +<blockquote>(*Footnote. Linnean Society Transactions 12 page +136.)</blockquote> +<p>It may perhaps be unnecessary to remark, that the raphe, or +vascular cord of the outer coat, almost universally belongs to +that side of the ovulum which is next the placenta. But it is at +least deserving of notice, that the very few apparent exceptions +to this rule evidently tend to confirm it. The most remarkable of +these exceptions occur in those species of Euonymus, which, +contrary to the usual structure of the genus and family they +belong to, have pendulous ovula; and, as I have long since +noticed, in the perfect ovula only of Abelia.* In these, and in +the other cases in which the raphe is on the outer side, or that +most remote from the placenta, the ovula are in reality +resupinate; an economy apparently essential to their +development.</p> +<blockquote>(*Footnote. Abel's China page 377.)</blockquote> +<p>The distinct origins and different directions of the +nourishing vessels and channel through which fecundation took +place in the ovulum, may still be seen in many of those ripe +seeds that are winged, and either present their margins to the +placenta, as in Proteaceae, or have the plane of the wing at +right angles to it, as in several Liliaceae. These organs are +visible also in some of those seeds that have their testa +produced at both ends beyond the inner membrane, as Nepenthes; a +structure which proves the outer coat of scobiform seeds, as they +are called, to be really testa, and not arillus, as it has often +been termed.</p> +<p>The importance of distinguishing between the membranes of the +unimpregnated ovulum and those of the ripe seed, must be +sufficiently evident from what has been already stated. But this +distinction has been necessarily neglected by two classes of +observers. The first consisting of those, among whom are several +of the most eminent carpologists, who have regarded the coats of +the seed as products of fecundation. The second of those authors +who, professing to give an account of the ovulum itself, have +made their observations chiefly, or entirely, on the ripe seed, +the coats of which they must consequently have supposed to be +formed before impregnation.</p> +<p>The consideration of the arillus, which is of rare occurrence, +is never complete, and whose development takes place chiefly +after fecundation, might here, perhaps, be entirely omitted. It +is, however, worthy of remark, that in the early stage of the +ovulum, this envelope is in general hardly visible even in those +cases where, as in Hibbertia volubilis, it attains the greatest +size in the ripe seed; nor does it in any case, with which I am +acquainted, cover the foramen of the testa until after +fecundation.</p> +<p>The testa, or outer coat of the seed, is very generally formed +by the outer membrane of the ovulum; and in most cases where the +nucleus is inverted, which is the more usual structure, its +origin may be satisfactorily determined; either by the hilum +being more or less lateral, while the foramen is terminal; or +more obviously, and with greater certainty where the raphe is +visible, this vascular cord uniformly belonging to the outer +membrane of the ovulum. The chalaza, properly so called, though +merely the termination of the raphe, affords a less certain +character, for in many plants it is hardly visible on the inner +surface of the testa, but is intimately united with the areola of +insertion of the inner membrane or of the nucleus, to one or +other of which it then seems entirely to belong. In those cases +where the testa agrees in direction with the nucleus, I am not +acquainted with any character by which it can be absolutely +distinguished from the inner membrane in the ripe seed; but as a +few plants are already known, in which the outer membrane is +originally incomplete, its entire absence, even before +fecundation, is conceivable; and some possible cases of such a +structure will be mentioned hereafter.</p> +<p>There are several cases known, some of which I have formerly +noticed,* of the complete obliteration of the testa in the ripe +seed; and on the other hand it appears to constitute the greater +part of the substance of the bulb-like seeds of many Liliaceae, +where it no doubt performs also the function of albumen, from +which, however, it is readily distinguished by its vascularity.** +But the most remarkable deviation from the usual structure and +economy of the outer membrane of the ovulum, both in its earliest +stage and in the ripe fruit, that I have yet met with, occurs in +Banksia and Dryandra. In these two genera I have ascertained that +the inner membrane of the ovulum, before fecundation, is entirely +exposed, the outer membrane being even then open its whole +length; and that the outer membranes of the two collateral ovula, +which are originally distinct, cohere in a more advanced stage by +their corresponding surfaces, and together constitute the +anomalous dissepiment of the capsule; the inner membrane of the +ovulum consequently forming the outer coat of the seed.</p> +<blockquote>(*Footnote. Linnean Society Transactions 12 page +149.)</blockquote> +<blockquote>(**Footnote. Ibid.)</blockquote> +<p>The inner membrane of the ovulum, however, in general appears +to be of greater importance as connected with fecundation, than +as affording protection to the nucleus at a more advanced period. +For in many cases, before impregnation, its perforated apex +projects beyond the aperture of the testa, and in some plants +puts on the appearance of an obtuse, or even dilated stigma; +while in the ripe seed it is often either entirely obliterated, +or exists only as a thin film, which might readily be mistaken +for the epidermis of a third membrane then frequently +observable.</p> +<p>This third coat is formed by the proper membrane or cuticle of +the Nucleus, from whose substance in the unimpregnated ovulum it +is never, I believe, separable, and at that period is very rarely +visible. In the ripe seed it is indistinguishable from the inner +membrane only by its apex, which is never perforated, is +generally acute and more deeply coloured, or even +sphacelated.</p> +<p>The membrane of the nucleus usually constitutes the innermost +coat of the seed. But in a few plants an additional coat, +apparently originating in the inner membrane of Grew, the +vesicula colliquamenti or amnios of Malpighi also exists.</p> +<p>In general the Amnios, after fecundation, gradually enlarges, +till at length it displaces or absorbs the whole substance of the +nucleus, containing in the ripe seed both the embryo and albumen, +where the latter continues to exist. In such cases, however, its +proper membrane is commonly obliterated, and its place supplied +either by that of the nucleus, by the inner membrane of the +ovulum, or, where both these are evanescent, by the testa +itself.</p> +<p>In other cases the albumen is formed by a deposition of +granular matter in the cells of the nucleus. In some of these +cases the membrane of the amnios seems to be persistent, forming +even in the ripe seed a proper coat for the embryo, the original +attachment of whose radicle to the apex of this coat may also +continue. This, at least, seems to me the most probable +explanation of the structure of true Nymphaeaceae, namely, +Nuphar, Nymphaea, Euryale, Hydropeltis, and Cabomba, +notwithstanding their very remarkable germination, as observed +and figured in Nymphaea and Nuphar by Tittmann.*</p> +<blockquote>(*Footnote. Keimung der Pflanzen page 19 et 27 table +3 et 4.)</blockquote> +<p>In support of this explanation, which differs from all those +yet given, I may here advert to an observation published many +years ago, though it seems to have escaped every author who has +since written on the subject, namely, that before the maturity of +the seed in Nymphaeaceae, the sacculus contains along with the +embryo a (pulpy or semi-fluid) substance, which I then called +Vitellus, applying at that time this name to every body +interposed between the albumen and embryo.* The opinion receives +some confirmation also from the existence of an extremely fine +filament, hitherto overlooked, which, originating from the centre +of the lower surface of the sacculus, and passing through the +hollow axis of the Albumen, probably connects this coat of the +Embryo in an early stage with the base of the nucleus.</p> +<blockquote>(*Footnote. Prodr. Flor. Nov. Holl. 1 page +306.)</blockquote> +<p>The same explanation of structure applies to the seeds of +Piperaceae and Saururus; and other instances occur of the +persistence either of the membrane or of the substance of the +amnios in the ripe seed.</p> +<p>It may be concluded from the whole account which I have given +of the structure of the ovulum, that the more important changes +consequent to real, or even to spurious fecundation, must take +place within the nucleus: and that the albumen, properly so +called, may be formed either by a deposition or secretion of +granular matter in the utriculi of the amnios, or in those of the +nucleus itself, or lastly, that two substances having these +distinct origins, and very different textures, may co-exist in +the ripe seed, as is probably the case in Scitamineae.</p> +<p>On the subject of the ovulum, as contained in an ovarium, I +shall at present make but one other remark, which forms a +necessary introduction to the observations that follow.</p> +<p>ON THE STRUCTURE OF THE FEMALE FLOWER IN CYCADEAE AND +CONIFERAE.</p> +<p>That the apex of the nucleus is the point of the ovulum where +impregnation takes place, is at least highly probable, both from +the constancy in the appearance of the embryo at that point, and +from the very general inversion of the nucleus; for by this +inversion its apex is brought nearly, or absolutely, into contact +with that part of the parietes of the ovarium, by which the +influence of the pollen may be supposed to be communicated. In +several of those families of plants, however, in which the +nucleus is not inverted, and the placentae are polyspermous, as +Cistineae,* it is difficult to comprehend in what manner this +influence can reach its apex externally, except on the +supposition, not hastily to be admitted, of an impregnating aura +filling the cavity of the ovarium; or by the complete separation +of the fecundating tubes from the placentae, which, however, in +such cases I have never been able to detect.</p> +<blockquote>(*Footnote. This structure of ovulum, indicated by +that of the seed, as characterizing and defining the limits of +Cistineae (namely, Cistus, Helianthemum, Hudsonia and Lechea) I +communicated to Dr. Hooker, by whom it is noticed in his Flora +Scotica (page 284) published in 1821; where, however, an +observation is added respecting Gaertner's description of Cistus +and Helianthemum, for which I am not accountable.)</blockquote> +<p>It would entirely remove the doubts that may exist respecting +the point of impregnation, if cases could be produced where the +ovarium was either altogether wanting, or so imperfectly formed, +that the ovulum itself became directly exposed to the action of +the pollen, or its fovilla; its apex, as well as the orifice of +its immediate covering, being modified and developed to adapt +them to this economy.</p> +<p>But such, I believe, is the real explanation of the structure +of Cycadeae, of Coniferae, of Ephedra, and even of Gnetum, of +which Thoa of Aublet is a species.</p> +<p>To this view the most formidable objection would be removed, +were it admitted, in conformity with the preceding observations, +that the apex of the nucleus, or supposed point of impregnation, +has no organic connexion with the parietes of the ovarium. In +support of it, also, as far as regards the direct action of the +pollen on the ovulum, numerous instances of analogous economy in +the animal kingdom may be adduced.</p> +<p>The similarity of the female flower in Cycadeae and Coniferae +to the ovulum of other phaenogamous plants, as I have described +it, is indeed sufficiently obvious to render the opinion here +advanced not altogether improbable. But the proof of its +correctness must chiefly rest on a resemblance, in every +essential point, being established, between the inner body in the +supposed female flower in these tribes, and the nucleus of the +ovulum in ordinary structures; not only in the early stage, but +also in the whole series of changes consequent to fecundation. +Now as far as I have yet examined, there is nearly a complete +agreement in all these respects. I am not entirely satisfied, +however, with the observations I have hitherto been able to make +on a subject naturally difficult, and to which I have not till +lately attended with my present view.</p> +<p>The facts most likely to be produced as arguments against this +view of the structure of Coniferae, are the unequal and +apparently secreting surface of the apex of the supposed nucleus +in most cases; its occasional projection beyond the orifice of +the outer coat; its cohesion with that coat by a considerable +portion of its surface, and the not unfrequent division of the +orifice of the coat. Yet most of these peculiarities of structure +might perhaps be adduced in support of the opinion advanced, +being apparent adaptations to the supposed economy.</p> +<p>There is one fact that will hardly be brought forward as an +objection, and which yet seems to me to present a difficulty, to +this opinion; namely, the greater simplicity in Cycadeae, and in +the principal part of Coniferae, of the supposed ovulum which +consists of a nucleus and one coat only, compared with the organ +as generally existing when enclosed in an ovarium. The want of +uniformity in this respect may even be stated as another +difficulty, for in some genera of Coniferae the ovulum appears to +be complete.</p> +<p>In Ephedra, indeed, where the nucleus is provided with two +envelopes, the outer may, perhaps, be supposed rather analogous +to the calyx, or involucrum of the male flower, than as belonging +to the ovulum; but in Gnetum, where three envelopes exist, two of +these may, with great probability, be regarded as coats of the +nucleus; while in Podocarpus and Dacrydium, the outer cupula, as +I formerly termed it,* may also, perhaps, be viewed as the testa +of the ovulum. To this view, as far as relates to Dacrydium, the +longitudinal fissure of the outer coat in the early stage, and +its state in the ripe fruit, in which it forms only a partial +covering, may be objected.** But these objections are, in a great +measure, removed by the analogous structure already described in +Banksia and Dryandra.</p> +<blockquote>(*Footnote. Flinders Voyage volume 2 page +573.)</blockquote> +<blockquote>(**Footnote. Id. loc. cit.)</blockquote> +<p>The plurality of embryos sometimes occurring in Coniferae, and +which, in Cycadeae, seems even to be the natural structure, may +also, perhaps, be supposed to form an objection to the present +opinion, though to me it appears rather an argument in its +favour.</p> +<p>Upon the whole, the objections to which the view here taken of +the structure of these two families is still liable, seem to me, +as far as I am aware of them, much less important than those that +may be brought against the other opinions that have been +advanced, and still divide botanists on this subject.</p> +<p>According to the earliest of these opinions, the female flower +of Cycadeae and Coniferae is a monospermous pistillum, having no +proper floral envelope.</p> +<p>To this structure, however, Pinus itself was long considered +by many botanists as presenting an exception.</p> +<p>Linnaeus has expressed himself so obscurely in the natural +character which he has given of this genus, that I find it +difficult to determine what his opinion of its structure really +was. I am inclined, however, to believe it to have been much +nearer the truth than is generally supposed; judging of it from a +comparison of his essential with his artificial generic +character, and from an observation recorded in his Praelectiones, +published by Giseke.*</p> +<blockquote>(*Footnote. Praelect. in Ord. Nat. page +589.)</blockquote> +But the first clear account that I have met with, of the real +structure of Pinus, as far as regards the direction, or base and +apex of the female flowers, is given, in 1767, by Trew, who +describes them in the following manner: "Singula semina vel +potius germina stigmati tanquam organo feminino gaudent,"* and +his figure of the female flower of the Larch, in which the +stigmata project beyond the base of the scale, removes all doubt +respecting his meaning. +<blockquote>(*Footnote. Nov. Act. Acad. Nat. Curios. 3 page 453 +table 13 figure 23.)</blockquote> +<p>In 1789, M. de Jussieu, in the character of his genus Abies,* +gives a similar account of structure, though somewhat less +clearly as well as less decidedly expressed. In the observations +that follow, he suggests, as not improbable, a very different +view, founded on the supposed analogy with Araucaria, whose +structure was then misunderstood; namely, that the inner scale of +the female amentum is a bilocular ovarium, of which the outer +scale is the style. But this, according to Sir James Smith,** was +also Linnaeus' opinion; and it is the view adopted in Mr. +Lambert's splendid monograph of the genus published in 1803.</p> +<blockquote>(*Footnote. Gen. Pl. page 414.)</blockquote> +<blockquote>(**Footnote. Rees Cyclop. art. Pinus.)</blockquote> +<p>In the same year in which Mr. Lambert's work appeared, +Schkuhr* describes, and very distinctly figures, the female +flower of Pinus, exactly as it was understood by Trew, whose +opinion was probably unknown to him.</p> +<blockquote>(*Footnote. Botan. Handb. 3 page 276 table +308.)</blockquote> +<p>In 1807, a memoir on this subject, by Mr. Salisbury, was +published,* in which an account of structure is given, in no +important particular different from that of Trew and Schkuhr, +with whose observations he appears to have been unacquainted.</p> +<blockquote>(*Footnote. Linnean Society Transactions 8 page +308.)</blockquote> +<p>M. Mirbel, in 1809,* held the same opinion, both with respect +to Pinus and to the whole natural family. But in 1812, in +conjunction with M. Schoubert,** he proposed a very different +view of the structure of Cycadeae and Coniferae, stating, that in +their female flowers there is not only a minute cohering +perianthium present, but an external additional envelope, to +which he has given the name of cupula.</p> +<blockquote>(*Footnote. Ann. du Mus. d'Hist. Nat. tome 15 page +473.)</blockquote> +<blockquote>(**Footnote. Nouv. Bulletin des Sc. tome 3 pages 73, +85 et 121.)</blockquote> +<p>In 1814 I adopted this view, as far, at least, as regards the +manner of impregnation, and stated some facts in support of it.* +But on reconsidering the subject, in connexion with what I had +ascertained respecting the vegetable ovulum, I soon after +altogether abandoned this opinion, without, however, venturing +explicitly to state that now advanced, and which had then +suggested itself.**</p> +<blockquote>(*Footnote. Flinders Voyage 2 572.)</blockquote> +<blockquote>(**Footnote. Tuckey Congo page 454 et Linnean Society +Transactions volume 13 page 213.)</blockquote> +<p>It is well known that the late M. Richard had prepared a very +valuable memoir on these two families of plants; and he appears, +from some observations lately published by his son, M. Achille +Richard,* to have formed an opinion respecting their structure +somewhat different from that of M. Mirbel, whose cupula is, +according to him, the perianthium, more or less cohering with the +included pistillum. He was probably led to this view, on +ascertaining, which I had also done, that the common account of +the structure of Ephedra was incorrect,** its supposed style +being in reality the elongated tubular apex of a membranous +envelope, and the included body being evidently analogous to that +in other genera of Coniferae.</p> +<blockquote>(*Footnote. Dict. Class. d' Hist. Nat. tome 4 page +395 et tome 5 page 216.)</blockquote> +<blockquote>(**Footnote. Dict. Class. d'Hist. Nat. tome 6 page +208.)</blockquote> +<p>To the earliest of the opinions here quoted, that which +considers the female flower of Coniferae and Cycadeae as a naked +pistillum, there are two principal objections. The first of these +arises from the perforation of the pistillum, and the exposure of +that point of the ovulum where the embryo is formed to the direct +action of the pollen; the second from the too great simplicity of +structure of the supposed ovulum, which, I have shown, accords +better with that of the nucleus as existing in ordinary +cases.</p> +<p>To the opinions of MM. Richard and Mirbel, the first objection +does not apply, but the second acquires such additional weight, +as to render those opinions much less probable, it seems to me, +than that which I have endeavoured to support.</p> +<p>In supposing the correctness of this opinion to be admitted, a +question connected with it, and of some importance, would still +remain, namely, whether in Cycadeae and Coniferae the ovula are +produced on an ovarium of reduced functions and altered +appearance, or on a rachis or receptacle. In other words, in +employing the language of an hypothesis, which, with some +alterations, I have elsewhere attempted to explain and defend, +respecting the formation of the sexual organs in Phaenogamous +plants,* whether the ovula in these two families originate in a +modified leaf, or proceed directly from the stem.</p> +<blockquote>(*Footnote. Linnean Society Transactions volume 13 +page 211.)</blockquote> +<p>Were I to adopt the former supposition, or that best agreeing +with the hypothesis in question, I should certainly apply it, in +the first place, to Cycas, in which the female spadix bears so +striking a resemblance to a partially altered frond or leaf, +producing marginal ovula in one part, and in another being +divided into segments, in some cases nearly resembling those of +the ordinary frond.</p> +<p>But the analogy of the female spadix of Cycas to that of Zamia +is sufficiently obvious; and from the spadix of Zamia to the +fruit-bearing squama of Coniferae, strictly so called, namely, of +Agathis or Dammara, Cunninghamia, Pinus, and even Araucaria, the +transition is not difficult. This view is applicable, though less +manifestly, also to Cupressinae; and might even be extended to +Podocarpus and Dacrydium. But the structure of these two genera +admits likewise of another explanation, to which I have already +adverted.</p> +<p>If, however, the ovula in Cycadeae and Coniferae be really +produced on the surface of an ovarium, it might, perhaps, though +not necessarily, be expected that their male flowers should +differ from those of all other phaenogamous plants, and in this +difference exhibit some analogy to the structure of the female +flower. But in Cycadeae, at least, and especially in Zamia, the +resemblance between the male and female spadices is so great, +that if the female be analogous to an ovarium, the partial male +spadix must be considered as a single anthera, producing on its +surface either naked grains of pollen, or pollen subdivided into +masses, each furnished with its proper membrane.</p> +<p>Both these views may at present, perhaps, appear equally +paradoxical; yet the former was entertained by Linnaeus, who +expresses himself on the subject in the following terms, Pulvis +floridus in Cycade minime pro Antheris agnoscendus est sed pro +nudo polline, quod unusquisque qui unquam pollen antherarum in +plantis examinavit fatebitur.* That this opinion, so confidently +held by Linnaeus, was never adopted by any other botanist, seems +in part to have arisen from his having extended it to dorsiferous +Ferns. Limited to Cycadeae, however, it does not appear to me so +very improbable, as to deserve to be rejected without +examination. It receives, at least, some support from the +separation, in several cases, especially in the American Zamiae, +of the grains into two distinct, and sometimes nearly marginal, +masses, representing, as it may be supposed, the lobes of an +anthera; and also from their approximation in definite numbers, +generally in fours, analogous to the quaternary union of the +grains of pollen, not unfrequent in the antherae of several other +families of plants. The great size of the supposed grains of +pollen, with the thickening and regular bursting of their +membrane, may be said to be circumstances obviously connected +with their production and persistence on the surface of an +anthera, distant from the female flower; and with this economy, a +corresponding enlargement of the contained particles or fovilla +might also be expected. On examining these particles, however, I +find them not only equal in size to the grains of pollen of many +antherae, but, being elliptical and marked on one side with a +longitudinal furrow, they have that form which is one of the most +common in the simple pollen of phaenogamous plants. To suppose, +therefore, merely on the grounds already stated, that these +particles are analogous to the fovilla, and the containing organs +to the grains of pollen in antherae of the usual structure, would +be entirely gratuitous. It is, at the same time, deserving of +remark, that were this view adopted on more satisfactory grounds, +a corresponding development might then be said to exist in the +essential parts of the male and female organs. The increased +development in the ovulum would not consist so much in the +unusual form and thickening of the coat, a part of secondary +importance, and whose nature is disputed, as in the state of the +nucleus of the seed, respecting which there is no difference of +opinion; and where the plurality of embryos, or at least the +existence and regular arrangement of the cells in which they are +formed, is the uniform structure in the family.</p> +<blockquote>(*Footnote. Mem. de l'Acad. des Scien. de Paris 1775 +page 518.)</blockquote> +<p>The second view suggested, in which the anthera in Cycadeae is +considered as producing on its surface an indefinite number of +pollen masses, each enclosed in its proper membrane, would derive +its only support from a few remote analogies: as from those +antherae, whose loculi are sub-divided into a definite, or more +rarely an indefinite, number of cells, and especially from the +structure of the stamina of Viscum album.</p> +<p>I may remark, that the opinion of M. Richard,* who considers +these grains, or masses, as unilocular antherae, each of which +constitutes a male flower, seems to be attended with nearly equal +difficulties.</p> +<blockquote>(*Footnote. Dict. Class. d'Hist. Nat. tome 5 page +216.)</blockquote> +<p>The analogy between the male and female organs in Coniferae, +the existence of an open ovarium being assumed, is at first sight +more apparent than in Cycadeae. In Coniferae, however, the pollen +is certainly not naked, but is enclosed in a membrane similar to +the lobe of an ordinary anthera. And in those genera in which +each squama of the amentum produces two marginal lobes only, as +Pinus, Podocarpus, Dacrydium, Salisburia, and Phyllocladus, it +nearly resembles the more general form of the antherae in other +Phaenogamous plants. But the difficulty occurs in those genera +which have an increased number of lobes on each squama, as +Agathis and Araucaria, where their number is considerable and +apparently indefinite, and more particularly still in +Cunninghamia, or Belis,* in which the lobes, though only three in +number, agree in this respect, as well as in insertion and +direction, with the ovula. The supposition, that in such cases +all the lobes of each squama are cells of one and the same +anthera, receives but little support either from the origin and +arrangement of the lobes themselves, or from the structure of +other phaenogamous plants: the only cases of apparent, though +doubtful, analogy that I can at present recollect occurring in +Aphyteia, and perhaps in some Cucurbitaceae.</p> +<blockquote>(*Footnote. In communicating specimens of this plant +to the late M. Richard, for his intended monograph of Coniferae, +I added some remarks on its structure, agreeing with those here +made. I at the same time requested that, if he objected to Mr. +Salisbury's Belis as liable to be confounded with Bellis, the +genus might be named Cunninghamia, to commemorate the merits of +Mr. James Cunningham, an excellent observer in his time, by whom +this plant was discovered; and in honour of Mr. Allan Cunningham, +the very deserving botanist who accompanied Mr. Oxley in his +first expedition into the interior of New South Wales, and +Captain King in all his voyages of survey of the Coasts of New +Holland.)</blockquote> +<p>That part of my subject, therefore, which relates to the +analogy between the male and female flowers in Cycadeae and +Coniferae, I consider the least satisfactory, both in regard to +the immediate question of the existence of an anomalous ovarium +in these families, and to the hypothesis repeatedly referred to, +of the origin of the sexual organs of all phaenogamous +plants.</p> +<p>In concluding this digression, I have to express my regret +that it should have so far exceeded the limits proper for its +introduction into the present work. In giving an account, +however, of the genus of plants to which it is annexed, I had to +describe a structure, of whose nature and importance it was +necessary I should show myself aware; and circumstances have +occurred while I was engaged in preparing this account, which +determined me to enter much more fully into the subject than I +had originally intended.</p> +<hr align="center" width="20%"> +<p><a name="appendixC"></a></p> +<h3>APPENDIX C.</h3> +<p align="center">AN ACCOUNT OF SOME GEOLOGICAL SPECIMENS, +COLLECTED BY CAPTAIN P.P. KING, IN HIS SURVEY OF THE COASTS OF +AUSTRALIA, AND BY ROBERT BROWN, ESQUIRE, ON THE SHORES OF THE +GULF OF CARPENTARIA, DURING THE VOYAGE OF CAPTAIN FLINDERS.</p> +<p align="center">BY WILLIAM HENRY FITTON, M.D., F.R.S., +V.P.G.S.</p> +<p>[READ BEFORE THE GEOLOGICAL SOCIETY OF LONDON, 4TH NOVEMBER, +1825.]</p> +<p>The following enumeration of specimens from the coasts of +Australia, commences, with the survey of Captain King, on the +eastern shore, about the latitude of twenty-two degrees, +proceeding northward and westward: and as the shores of the Gulf +of Carpentaria, previously surveyed by Captain Flinders, were +passed over by Captain King, Mr. Brown, who accompanied the +former, has been so good as to allow the specimens collected by +himself in that part of New Holland, to supply the chasm which +would otherwise have existed in the series. Part of the west and +north-western coast, examined by Captain King, having been +previously visited by the French voyagers, under Captain Baudin, +I was desirous of obtaining such information as could be derived +from the specimens collected during that expedition, and now +remaining at Paris; although I was aware that the premature death +of the principal mineralogist, and other unfavourable +circumstances, had probably diminished their value:* But the +collection from New Holland, at the school of Mines, with a list +of which I have been favoured through the kindness of Mr. +Brochant de Villiers, relates principally to Van Diemen's Land; +and that of the Jardin du Roi, which Mr. Constant Prevost has +obliged me with an account of, does not afford the information I +had hoped for. I have availed myself of the notices relating to +Physical Geography and Geology, which are dispersed through the +published accounts of Captain Flinders',** and Baudin's +Voyages;*** and these, with the collections above alluded to, +form, I believe, the only sources of information at present +existing in Europe, respecting the geological structure and +productions of the north and western coasts of Australia.</p> +<blockquote>(*Footnote. M. Depuch, the mineralogist, died during +the progress of the voyage, in 1803; and, unfortunately, none of +his manuscripts were preserved. M. Peron, the zoologist, after +publishing, in 1807, the first volume of the account of the +expedition, died in 1810, before the appearance of the second +volume. Voyage etc. 1 page 417, 418; and 2 page +163.)</blockquote> +<blockquote>(**Footnote. A Voyage to Terra Australis, etc., in +the years 1801, 1802, and 1803, by Matthew Flinders, Commander of +the Investigator. Two volumes quarto with an atlas folio; London +1814.)</blockquote> +<blockquote>(***Footnote. Voyage de Decouverte aux Terres +Australes etc. Tome 1 redige par M. F. Peron, naturaliste de +l'Expedition, Paris 1807. Tome 2 redige par M. Peron et M. L. +Freycinet 1816. A third volume of this work, under the title of +Navigation et Geographie, was published by Capt. Freycinet in +1815. It contains a brief and clear account of the proceedings of +the expedition; and affords some particulars connected with the +physical geography of the places described, which are not to be +found in the other volumes.)</blockquote> +<p>In order to avoid the interruption which would be occasioned +by detail, I shall prefix to the list of specimens in Captain +King's and Mr. Brown's collections, a general sketch of the coast +from whence they come, deduced, principally, from the large +charts,* and from the narratives of Captains Flinders and King, +with a summary of the geological information derived from the +specimens. But I have thought it necessary to subjoin a more +detailed list of the specimens themselves; on account of the +great distance from each other of many of the places where they +were found, and of the general interest attached to the +productions of a country so very remote, of which the greater +part is not likely to be often visited by geologists. The +situation of such of the places mentioned, as are not to be found +in the reduced chart annexed to the present publication, will be +sufficiently indicated by the names of the adjacent places.</p> +<blockquote>(*Footnote. These charts have been published by the +Admiralty for general sale.)</blockquote> +<p align="center">GENERAL SKETCH OF THE COAST.</p> +<p>The North-eastern coast of New South Wales, from the latitude +of about 28 degrees, has a direction from south-east to +north-west; and ranges of mountains are visible from the sea, +with little interruption, as far north as Cape Weymouth, between +the latitude of 12 and 13 degrees. From within Cape Palmerston, +west of the Northumberland Islands, near the point where Captain +King began his surveys, a high and rocky range, of very irregular +outline, and apparently composed of primitive rocks, is continued +for more than one hundred and fifty miles, without any break; and +after a remarkable opening, about the latitude of 21 degrees, is +again resumed. Several of the summits, visible from the sea, in +the front of this range, are of considerable elevation: Mount +Dryander, on the promontory which terminates in Cape Gloucester, +being more than four thousand five hundred feet high. Mount +Eliot, with a peaked summit, a little to the south of Cape +Cleveland, is visible at twenty-five leagues distance; and Mount +Hinchinbrook, immediately upon the shore, south of Rockingham +Bay, is more than two thousand feet high. From the south of Cape +Grafton to Cape Tribulation, precipitous hills, bordered by low +land, form the coast; but the latter Cape itself consists of a +lofty group, with several peaks, the highest of which is visible +from the sea at twenty leagues. The heights from thence towards +the north decline gradually, as the mountainous ranges approach +the shore, which they join at Cape Weymouth, about latitude 12 +degrees; and from that point northward, to Cape York, the land in +general is comparatively low, nor do any detached points of +considerable elevation appear there. But about midway between +Cape Grenville and Cape York, on the mainland south-west of +Cairncross Island, a flat summit called Pudding-Pan Hill is +conspicuous; and its shape, which differs from that of the hills +on the east coast in general, remarkably resembles that of the +mountains of the north and west coasts, to which names expressing +their form have been applied.*</p> +<blockquote>(*Footnote. Jane's Table-Land, south-east of Princess +Charlotte's Bay (about latitude 14 degrees 30 minutes) and Mount +Adolphus, in one of the islands (a</blockquote> +bout latitude 10 degrees 40 minutes) off Cape York, have also +flat summits. King manuscripts.) +<p>The line of the coast above described retires at a point which +corresponds with the decline of its level; and immediately on the +north of Cape Melville is thrown back to the west; so that the +high land about that Cape stands out like a shoulder, more than +forty miles beyond the coastline between Princess Charlotte's Bay +and the north-eastern point of Australia.</p> +<p>The land near Cape York is not more than four or five hundred +feet high, and the islands off that point are nearly of the same +elevation.</p> +<p>The bottom of several of the bays, on the eastern coast, not +having been explored, it is still probable that rivers, or +considerable mountain streams, may exist there.</p> +<p>Along this eastern line of shore, granite has been found +throughout a space of nearly five hundred miles; at Cape +Cleveland; Cape Grafton; Endeavour River; Lizard Island; and at +Clack's Island, on the north-west of the rocky mass which forms +Cape Melville. And rocks of the trap formation have been obtained +in three detached points among the islands off the shore; in the +Percy Isles, about latitude 21 degrees 40 minutes; Sunday Island, +north of Cape Grenville, about latitude 12 degrees; and in Good's +Island, on the north-west of Cape York, latitude 10 degrees 34 +minutes.</p> +<p>The Gulf of Carpentaria having been fully examined by Captain +Flinders, was not visited by Captain King; but the following +account has been deduced from the voyage and charts of the +former, combined with the specimens collected by Mr. Brown, who +has also favoured me with an extract from the notes taken by +himself on that part of the coast.</p> +<p>The land, on the east and south of the Gulf of Carpentaria, is +so low, that for a space of nearly six hundred miles--from +Endeavour Strait to a range of hills on the mainland, west of +Wellesley Islands, at the bottom of the gulf--no part of the +coast is higher than a ship's masthead.* Some of the land in +Wellesley islands is higher than the main; but the largest island +is, probably, not more than one hundred and fifty feet in +height;** and low-wooded hills occur on the mainland, from thence +to Sir Edward Pellew's group. The rock observed on the shore at +Coen River, the only point on the eastern side of the Gulf where +Captain Flinders landed, was calcareous sandstone of recent +concretional formation.</p> +<blockquote>(*Footnote. Flinders Charts Plate 14.)</blockquote> +<blockquote>(**Footnote. Flinders Volume 2 page +158.)</blockquote> +<p>In Sweer's Island, one of Wellesley's Isles, a hill of about +fifty or sixty feet in height was covered with a sandy calcareous +stone, having the appearance of concretions rising irregularly +about a foot above the general surface, without any distinct +ramifications. The specimens from this place have evidently the +structure of stalactites, which seem to have been formed in sand; +and the reddish carbonate of lime, by which the sand has been +agglutinated, is of the same character with that of the west +coast, where a similar concreted limestone occurs in great +abundance.</p> +<p>The western shore of the Gulf of Carpentaria is somewhat +higher, and from Limmen's Bight to the latitude of Groote +Eylandt, is lined by a range of low hills. On the north of the +latter place, the coast becomes irregular and broken; the base of +the country apparently consisting of primitive rocks, and the +upper part of the hills of a reddish sandstone; some of the +specimens of which are identical with that which occurs at +Goulburn and Sims Islands on the north coast, and is very widely +distributed on the north-west. The shore at the bottom of +Melville Bay is stated by Captain Flinders to consist of low +cliffs of pipe-clay, for a space of about eight miles in extent +from east to west; and similar cliffs of pipe-clay are described +as occurring at Goulburn Islands (see the plate, volume 1) and at +Lethbridge Bay, on the north of Melville Island: both of which +places are considerably to the west of the Gulf of +Carpentaria.</p> +<p>Morgan's Island, a small islet in Blue-Mud Bay, on the +north-west of Groote Eylandt, is composed of clink-stone; and +other rocks of the trap-formation occur in several places on this +coast.</p> +<p>The north of Blue-Mud Bay has furnished also specimens of +ancient sandstone; with columnar rocks, probably of clink-stone. +Round Hill, near Point Grindall, a promontory on the north of +Morgan's Island, is composed, at the base, of granite; and Mount +Caledon, on the west side of Caledon Bay, seems likewise to +consist of that rock, as does also Melville Island. This part of +the coast has afforded the ferruginous oxide of manganese: and +brown hematite is found hereabouts in considerable quantity, on +the shore at the base of the cliffs; forming the cement of a +breccia, which contains fragments of sandstone, and in which the +ferruginous matter appears to be of very recent production; +resembling, perhaps, the hematite observed at Edinburgh by +Professor Jameson, around cast-iron pipes which had lain for some +time in sand.*</p> +<blockquote>(*Footnote. Edinburgh Philosophical Journal, July +1825 page 193.)</blockquote> +<p>The general range of the coast, it will be observed, from +Limmen's Bight to Cape Arnhem, is from south-west to north-east; +and three conspicuous ranges of islands on the north-western +entrance of the Gulf of Carpentaria, the appearance of which is +so remarkable as to have attracted the attention of Captain +Flinders,* have the same general direction: a fact which is +probably not unconnected with the general structure of the +country. The prevailing rock in all these islands appears to be +sandstone.</p> +<p>(Flinders Volume 2 page 158. See hereafter.)</p> +<p>The line of the main coast from Point Dale to the bottom of +Castlereagh Bay, where Captain King's survey was resumed, has +also a direction from south-west to north-east, parallel to that +of the ranges of islands just mentioned. The low land near the +north coast in Castlereagh Bay, and from thence to Goulburn +Islands, is intersected by one of the few rivers yet discovered +in this part of Australia, a tortuous and shallow stream, named +Liverpool River, which has been traced inland to about forty +miles from the coast, through a country not more than three feet +in general elevation above high-water mark; the banks being low +and muddy, and thickly wooded: And this description is applicable +also to the Alligator Rivers on the south-east of Van Diemen's +Gulf, and to the surrounding country. The outline of the +Wellington Hills, however, on the mainland between the Liverpool +and Alligator Rivers, is jagged and irregular; this range being +thus remarkably contrasted with the flat summits which appear to +be very numerous on the north-western coast.</p> +<p>The specimens from Goulburn Islands consist of reddish +sandstone, not to be distinguished from that which occurs beneath +the coal formation in England. On the west of these islands the +coast is more broken, and the outline is irregular: but the +elevation is inconsiderable; the general height in Cobourg +Peninsula not being above one hundred and fifty feet above the +sea, and that of the hills not more than from three to four +hundred feet.</p> +<p>On this part of the coast, several hills are remarkable for +the flatness of their tops; and the general outline of many of +the islands, as seen on the horizon, is very striking and +peculiar. Thus Mount Bedwell and Mount Roe, on the south of +Cobourg Peninsula; Luxmoore Head, at the west end of Melville +Island; the Barthelemy Hills, south of Cape Ford; Mount Goodwin, +south of Port Keats; Mount Cockburn, and several of the hills +adjacent to Cambridge Gulf, the names given to which during the +progress of the survey sufficiently indicate their form, as +House-roofed, Bastion, Flat-top, and Square-top Hills; Mount +Casuarina, about forty miles north-west of Cambridge Gulf; a hill +near Cape Voltaire; Steep-Head, Port Warrender; and several of +the islands off that port, York Sound, and Prince Regent's River; +Cape Cuvier, about latitude 24 degrees; and, still further south, +the whole of Moresby's flat-topped Range, are all distinguished +by their linear and nearly horizontal outlines: and except in a +few instances, as Mount Cockburn, Steep-Head, Mounts Trafalgar +and Waterloo (which look more like hills of floetz-trap) they +have very much the aspect of the summits in the coal +formation.*</p> +<blockquote>(*Footnote. Captain King, however, has informed me, +that in some of these cases, the shape of the hill is really that +of a roof, or hayrick; the transverse section being angular, and +the horizontal top an edge.)</blockquote> +<p>Sketch 1 of some of the islands off Admiralty Gulf (looking +southward from the north-east end of Cassini Island, about +latitude 13 degrees 50 minutes, East longitude 125 degrees 50 +minutes) has some resemblance to one of the views in Peron's +Atlas (plate 6 figure 7): and the outline of the Iles Forbin +(plate 8 figure 5, of the same series) also exhibits remarkably +the peculiar form represented in several of Captain King's +drawings (Sketch 2).</p> +<center> +<p><a name="king2-10"></a><img alt="" src="images/king2-10a.jpg"></p> +<p><img alt="" src="images/king2-10b.jpg"></p> +<p><img alt="" src="images/king2-10c.jpg"></p> +<p><b>SKETCH 1: ISLANDS OFF ADMIRALTY GULF, LOOKING SOUTHWARD +FROM THE NORTH-EAST END OF CASSINI ISLAND.<br> +Left to right: Corneille, Fenelon, Descartes, and Pascal Islands, +Hills on Cape Voltaire, Condillac Island, and East end of Cassini +Island (Peron's Atlas, plate 6, figure 7) and the outline of the +Iles Forbin (Peron's Atlas, plate 8, figure 5).<br> +SKETCH 2: ISLANDS OFF ADMIRALTY GULF, LOOKING SOUTHWARD FROM THE +NORTH-EAST END OF CASSINI ISLAND. Left to right: Peak upon Cape +Voltaire and Condillac Island, bearing South, two miles distant. +Several drawings of Captain King.</b></p> +</center> +<p> </p> +<center> +<p><a name="king2-11"></a><img alt="" src="images/king2-11.jpg"></p> +<p><b>SKETCH 3: TWO CONSPICUOUS HILLS NORTH-EAST OF +PRINCE-REGENT'S RIVER. Left to right: Mount Trafalgar and Mount +Waterloo.</b></p> +</center> +<p> </p> +<p>The red colour of the cliffs on the north-west and west +coasts, is also an appearance which is frequently noticed on the +sketches taken by Captain King and his officers. This is +conspicuous in the neighbourhood of Cape Croker; at Darch Island +and Palm Bay; at Point Annesley and Point Coombe in Mountnorris +Bay; in the land about Cape Van Diemen, and on the north-west of +Bathurst Island. The cliffs on Roe's River (Prince Frederic's +Harbour) as might have been expected from the specimens, are +described as of a reddish colour; Cape Leveque is of the same +hue; and the northern limit of Shark's Bay, Cape Cuvier of the +French, latitude 24 degrees 13 minutes, which is like an enormous +bastion, may be distinguished at a considerable distance by its +full red colour.*</p> +<blockquote>(*Footnote. Freycinet page 195.)</blockquote> +<p>It is on the bank of the channel which separates Bathurst and +Melville Islands, near the north-western extremity of New +Holland, that a new colony has recently been established: (see +Captain King's Narrative volume 2.) A permanent station under the +superintendence of a British officer, in a country so very little +known, and in a situation so remote from any other English +settlement, affords an opportunity of collecting objects of +natural history, and of illustrating various points of great +interest to physical geography and meteorology, which it is to be +hoped will not be neglected. And as a very instructive +collection, for the general purposes of geology, can readily be +obtained in such situations, by attending to a few precautions, I +have thought that some brief directions on this subject would not +be out of place in the present publication; and have subjoined +them to the list of specimens at the close of this paper.*</p> +<blockquote>(*Footnote. See hereafter.)</blockquote> +<p>In the vicinity of Cambridge Gulf, Captain King states, the +character of the country is entirely changed; and irregular +ranges of detached rocky hills composed of sandstone, rising +abruptly from extensive plains of low level land, supersede the +low and woody coast, that occupies almost uninterruptedly the +space between this inlet and Cape Wessel, a distance of more than +six hundred miles. Cambridge Gulf, which is nothing more than a +swampy arm of the sea, extends to about eighty miles inland, in a +southern direction: and all the specimens from its vicinity +precisely resemble the older sandstones of the confines of +England and Wales.* The View (volume 1 plate) represents in the +distance Mount Cockburn, at the head of Cambridge Gulf; the flat +rocky top of which was supposed to consist of sandstone, but has +also the aspect of the trap-formation. The strata in Lacrosse +Island, at the entrance of the Gulf, rise toward the north-west, +at an angle of about 30 degrees with the horizon: their direction +consequently being from north-east to south-west.</p> +<blockquote>(*Footnote. I use the term Old Red Sand Stone, in the +acceptation of Messrs. Buckland and Conybeare, Observations on +the South Western Coal District of England. Geological +Transactions Second Series volume 1. Captain King's specimens +from Lacrosse Island are not to be distinguished from the slaty +strata of that formation, in the banks of the Avon, about two +miles below Clifton.)</blockquote> +<p>From hence to Cape Londonderry, towards the south, is an +uniform coast of moderate elevation; and from that point to Cape +Leveque, although the outline may be in a general view considered +as ranging from north-east to south-west,* the coast is +remarkably indented, and the adjoining sea irregularly studded +with very numerous islands. The specimens from this tract consist +almost entirely of sandstone, resembling that of Cambridge Gulf, +Goulburn Island, and the Gulf of Carpentaria; with which the +trap-formation appears to be associated.</p> +<blockquote>(*Footnote. The large chart Sheet 5 best shows the +general range of the shore, from the islands filling up the +inlets.)</blockquote> +<p>York Sound, one of the principal inlets on this part of the +coast, is bounded by precipitous rocks, from one to two hundred +feet in height; and some conical rocky peaks, which not +improbably consist of quartz-rock, were noticed on the eastern +side of the entrance. An unpublished sketch, by Captain King, +shows that the banks of Hunter's River, one of the branches of +York Sound, at seven or eight miles from its opening, are +composed of sandstone, in beds of great regularity; and this +place is also remarkable for a copious spring of fresh water, one +of the rarest phenomena of these thirsty and inhospitable +shores.*</p> +<blockquote>(*Footnote. Narrative 1.)</blockquote> +<p>The most considerable inlet, however, which has yet been +discovered in this quarter of Australia, is Prince Regent's +River, about thirty miles to the south-west of York Sound, the +course of which is almost rectilinear for about fifty miles in a +south-eastern direction; a fact which will probably be found to +be connected with the geological structure of the country. The +general character of the banks, which are lofty and abrupt, is +precisely the same with that of the rivers falling into York +Sound; and the level of the country does not appear to be higher +in the interior than near the coast. The banks are from two to +four hundred feet in height, and consist of close-grained +siliceous sandstone, of a reddish hue;* and the view (Plate +above) shows that the beds are nearly horizontal, and very +regularly disposed; the cascade there represented being about one +hundred and sixty feet in height, and the beds from six to twelve +feet in thickness. Two conspicuous hills, which Captain King has +named Mounts Trafalgar and Waterloo, on the north-east of +Prince-Regent's River, not far from its entrance, are remarkable +for cap-like summits, much resembling those which characterize +the trap formation. (Sketch 3.)</p> +<blockquote>(*Footnote. Narrative 1 and 2.)</blockquote> +<p>The coast on the south of this remarkable river, to Cape +Leveque, has not yet been thoroughly examined; but it appears +from Captain King's Chart (Number 5) to be intersected by several +inlets of considerable size, to trace which to their termination +is still a point of great interest in the physical geography of +New Holland. The space thus left to be explored, from the +Champagny Isles to Cape Leveque, corresponds to more than one +hundred miles in a direct line; within which extent nothing but +islands and detached portions of land have yet been observed. One +large inlet especially, on the south-east of Cape Leveque, +appears to afford considerable promise of a river; and the rise +of the tide within the Buccaneer's Archipelago, where there is +another unexplored opening, is no less than thirty-seven +feet.</p> +<p>The outline of the coast about Cape Leveque itself is low, +waving, and rounded; and the hue for which the cliffs are +remarkable in so many parts of the coast to the north, is also +observable here, the colour of the rocks at Point Coulomb being +of a deep red: but on the south of the high ground near that +Point, the rugged stony cliffs are succeeded by a long tract, +which to the French voyagers (for it was not examined by Captain +King) appeared to consist of low and sandy land, fronted by +extensive shoals. It has hitherto been seen, however, only at a +distance; so that a space of more than three hundred miles, from +Point Gantheaume nearly to Cape Lambert, still remains to be +accurately surveyed.</p> +<p>Depuch Island, east of Dampier's Archipelago, about latitude +20 degrees 30 minutes, is described by the French naturalists as +consisting in a great measure of columnar rocks, which they +supposed to be VOLCANIC; and they found reason to believe that +the adjoining continent was of the same materials.* It is not +improbable, however, that this term was applied to columns +belonging to the trap formation, since no burning mountain has +been any where observed on the coast of New Holland: nor do the +drawings of Depuch Island, made on board Captain King's vessel, +give reason to suppose that it is at present eruptive. Captain +King's specimens from Malus Island, in Dampier's Archipelago +(sixty miles farther west) consist of greenstone and +amygdaloid.</p> +<blockquote>(*Footnote. Peron volume 1 page 130.)</blockquote> +<p>The coast is again broken and rugged about Dampier's +Archipelago, latitude 20 degrees 30 minutes; and on the south of +Cape Preston, in latitude 21 degrees, is an opening of about +fifteen miles in width, between rocky hills, which has not been +explored. From thence to the bottom of Exmouth Gulf, more than +one hundred and fifty miles, the coast is low and sandy, and does +not exhibit any prominences. The west coast of Exmouth Gulf +itself is formed by a promontory of level land, terminating in +the North-west Cape; and from thence to the south-west, as far as +Cape Cuvier, the general height of the coast is from four to five +hundred feet; nor are any mountains visible over the coast +range.</p> +<p>Several portions of the shore between Shark's Bay and Cape +Naturaliste have been described in the account of Commodore +Baudin's Expedition; but some parts still remain to be surveyed. +From the specimens collected by Captain King and the French +descriptions, it appears that the islands on the west of Shark's +Bay abound in a concretional calcareous rock of very recent +formation, similar to what is found on the shore in several other +parts of New Holland, especially in the neighbourhood of King +George's Sound; and which is abundant also on the coast of the +West Indian Islands, and of the Mediterranean. Captain King's +specimens of this production are from Dirk Hartog's and Rottnest +Islands; and M. Peron states that the upper parts of Bernier and +Dorre Islands are composed of a rock of the same nature. This +part of the coast is covered in various places with extensive +dunes of sand; but the nature of the base, on which both these +and the calcareous formation repose, has not been +ascertained.</p> +<p>The general direction of the rocky shore, from North-west Cape +to Dirk Hartog's Island, is from the east of north to the west of +south. On the south of the latter place the land turns towards +the east. High, rocky and reddish cliffs have been seen +indistinctly about latitude 27 degrees; and a coast of the same +aspect has been surveyed, from Red Point, about latitude 28 +degrees, for more than eighty miles to the south-west. The hills +called Moresby's flat-topped Range, of which Mount Fairfax, +latitude 28 degrees 45 minutes, is the highest point, occupy a +space of more than fifty miles from north to south.</p> +<p>Rottnest Island and its vicinity, latitude 32 degrees, +contains in abundance the calcareous concretions already +mentioned; which seem there to consist in a great measure of the +remains of recent shells, in considerable variety. The islands of +this part of the shore have been described by MM. Peron and +Freycinet;* and the coast to the south, down to Cape Leeuwin, the +south-western extremity of New Holland, having been sufficiently +examined by the French voyagers, was not surveyed by Captain +King.</p> +<blockquote>(*Footnote. Peron volume 2 page 168 +etc.)</blockquote> +<p>Swan River (Riviere des Cygnes) upon this part of the coast, +latitude 31 degrees 25 minutes to 32 degrees, was examined by the +French expedition, to the distance of about twenty leagues from +its mouth; and found still to contain salt water. The rock in its +neighbourhood consisted altogether of sandy and calcareous +incrustations, in horizontal beds, enclosing, it is stated, +shells, and the roots and even trunks of trees. Between this +river and Cape Peron, a "great bay" was left unexplored.*</p> +<blockquote>(*Footnote. Peron volume 1 page 179. Freycinet page +5. 170.)</blockquote> +<p>The prominent mass of land, which stands out from the main, +between Cape Naturaliste and Cape Leeuwin, and runs nearly on the +meridian for more than fifty miles, seems to have a base of +granite, which, at Cape Naturaliste, is said to be stratified.* +The same rock also occurs, among Captain King's specimens, from +Bald-head in King George's Sound; but nearly on the summit of +that hill, which is about five hundred feet high, were Found the +ramified calcareous concretions, erroneously considered as corals +by Vancouver and others;** but which appear, from Captain King's +specimens, to be nothing more than a variety of the recent +limestone so abundant throughout these shores.</p> +<blockquote>(*Footnote. Peron volume 1 page 69.)</blockquote> +<blockquote>(**Footnote. Vancouver 1 49. D'Entrecasteaux 2 175. +Freycinet 105. Flinders 1 63. See the detailed descriptions +hereafter; and Captain King's Narrative volume 1.)</blockquote> +<p>The south coast, and the southern portion of the east coast of +Australia, which were surveyed by Captain Flinders, are described +in the account of his voyage, and do not come within the object +of the present paper.</p> +<hr align="center" width="20%"> +<h3>GEOLOGICAL REMARKS.</h3> +<p>1. The rocks, of which specimens occur in the collections of +Captain King and Mr. Brown, are the following:</p> +<p>Granite: Cape Cleveland; C. Grafton; Endeavour River; Lizard +Island; Round Hill, near C. Grindall; Mount Caledon; Island near +C. Arnhem; Melville Bay; Bald-head, King George's Sound.</p> +<p>Various Slaty Rocks:<br> +Mica-State: Mallison's I.<br> +Talc-State: Endeavour River.<br> +Slaty Clay: Inglis' I., Clack I., Percy I.<br> +Hornblende Rock ?: Pobassoo's Island; Halfway Bay, Prince +Regent's River.</p> +<p>Granular Quartz: Endeavour River; Montagu Sound, North-west +Coast.<br> +Epidote: C. Clinton ?; Port Warrender; Careening Bay.</p> +<p>Quartzose Conglomerates, and ancient Sandstones: Rodd's Bay; +Islands of the north and north-west coasts; Cambridge Gulf; York +Sound; Prince Regent's River.</p> +<p>Pipe-clay: Melville Bay; Goulburn I.; Lethbridge Bay.</p> +<p>ROCKS OF THE TRAP FORMATION.</p> +<p>Serpentine: Port Macquarie; Percy Isles.</p> +<p>Sienite: Rodd's Bay.</p> +<p>Porphyry: C. Cleveland.</p> +<p>Porphyritic Conglomerate: C. Clinton, Percy I., Good's I.</p> +<p>Compact Felspar: Percy I., Repulse Bay, Sunday Island.</p> +<p>Greenstone: Vansittart Bay, Bat I., Careening Bay, Malus +I.</p> +<p>Clinkstone: Morgan's I., Pobassoo's I.</p> +<p>Amygdaloid, with Chalcedony: Port Warrender; Half-way Bay; Bat +Island; Malus I.</p> +<p>Wacke ?: Bat Island.</p> +<hr align="center" width="20%"> +<p>Recent calcareous Breccia: Sweer's Island, N. coast. Dirk +Hartog's and Rottnest Islands, etc., West coast. King George's +Sound, South coast.</p> +<p>The only information that has been published respecting the +geology of New Holland, besides what is contained in the Voyages +of Captain Flinders and Commodore Baudin, is a slight notice by +Professor Buckland of some specimens collected during Mr. Oxley's +Expedition to the River Macquarie,* in 1818; and a brief outline +of a paper by the Reverend Archdeacon Scott, entitled A Sketch of +the Geology of New South Wales and Van Diemen's Land, which has +been read before the Geological Society.** On these authorities, +the following may be added to the preceding list of rocks:</p> +<p>Limestone, resembling in the character of its organic remains +the mountain limestone or England: Interior of New Holland, near +the east coast; Van Diemen's Land (Buckland; Prevost manuscripts; +Scott).</p> +<p>The Coal-formation: East coast of New Holland; Van Diemen's +Land. (Buckland-Scott.)</p> +<p>Indications of the new red-Sandstone (Red-Marl) afforded by +the occurrence of Salt: Van Diemen's Land. (Scott.)</p> +<p>Oolite: Van Diemen's Land. (Scott.)</p> +<blockquote>(*Footnote. Geological Transactions volume 5 page +480.)</blockquote> +<blockquote>(**Footnote. Ann. of Phil. June 1824. I am informed +that Mr. Von Buch also has published a paper on the rocks of New +Holland; but have not been so fortunate as to meet with it. +<p>Since this paper has been at the press, a Report presented to +the Academy of Sciences at Paris, on the Voyage of Discovery of +M. Duperrey, performed during the years 1822 to 1825, has been +published; from whence I have subjoined an extract, in order to +complete the catalogue of the rocks of Australia, according to +the present state of our information.</p> +<p>Les echantillons recueillis tant dans les contrees voisines du +Port Jackson, que dans les Montagnes-Bleues, augmentent beaucoup +nos connoissances sur ces parties de la Nouvelle Hollande. Les +echantillons, au nombre de soixante-dix, nous offrent, 1. Les +granites, les syenites-quartziferes, et les pegmatites (granites +graphiques) qui cunstituent le second plan des Muntagnes-Bleues. +2. Les gres ferrugineux, et renfermant d'abondantes paillettes de +fer oligiste, qui couvrent non seulement une vaste etendue de +pays pres des cotes, mais encore le premier plan des +Montagnes-Bleues; et 3. Le lignite stratiforme qu'on exploite au +Mont-Yorck, a 1000 pieds au-dessus du niveau de la mer, et dont +la presence ajoute aux motifs qui portent a penser que les gres +ferrugineux de ces contrees appartiennent au systeme des terrains +tertiaires.</p> +<p>Vingt-sept echantillons ramasses a la terre de Van Diemen, +dans les environs du port Dalrymple, et pres du Cap Barren, +indiquent, 1. Des terrains de pegmatite, et de serpentine. 2. Des +terrains intermediaires coquilliers, formes du +grauwacke-schistoide, et de pierre calcaire. 3. Des terrains +tres-recens, composes d'argile sablonneuse et ferrugineuse, avec +geodes de fer hydrate, et du bois fossile, a differens etats. On +distingue en outre des belles topazes blanches ou bleuatres, +parmi les galets quartzeux, qui ont ete recueillis au Cap Barren: +Bulletin des Sciences Naturelles, Octobre 1825 page 189.)</p> +</blockquote> +<p>2. The specimens of Captain King's and Mr. Brown's +collections, without any exception, agree with those of the same +denominations from other parts of the world; and the resemblance +is, in some instances, very remarkable: The sandstones of the +west and north-west of New Holland are so like those of the west +of England, and of Wales, that the specimens from the two +countries can scarcely be distinguished from each other; the +arenaceous cement in the calcareous breccia of the west coast is +precisely the same with that of Sicily; and the jasper, +chalcedony, and green quartz approaching to heliotrope, from the +entrance of Prince Regent's River, resemble those of the Tyrol, +both in their characters and association. The Epidote of Port +Warrender and Careening Bay, affords an additional proof of the +general distribution of that mineral; which, though perhaps it +may not constitute large masses, seems to be of more frequent +occurrence as a component of rocks than has hitherto been +supposed.* The mineral itself, both crystallized and compact, the +latter in the form of veins traversing sienitic rocks, occurs, in +Mr. Greenough's cabinet alone, from Malvern, North Wales, +Ireland, France, and Upper Saxony. Mr. Koenig has found it +extensively in the sienitic tract of Jersey;** where blocks of a +pudding-stone, bearing some resemblance to the green breccia of +Egypt, were found to be composed of compact epidote, including +very large pebbles of a porphyritic rock, which itself contains a +considerable proportion of this substance. And Mr. Greenough has +recently received, among specimens sent home by Mr. J. Burton, +junior, a mass of compact epidote, with quartz and felspar, from +Dokhan, in the desert between the Red Sea and the Nile. When New +Holland is added to these localities, it will appear that few +minerals are more widely diffused.</p> +<blockquote>(*Footnote. See Cleaveland's Mineralogy 1816 page 297 +to 300.)</blockquote> +<blockquote>(**Footnote. Plee's Account of Jersey quarto +Southampton 1817 page 231 to 276.)</blockquote> +<p>3. The unpublished sketches, by Captain King and Mr. Roe, of +the hills in sight during the progress of the survey of the +Coasts of Australia, accord in a very striking manner with the +geological character of the shore. Those from the east coast, +where the rocks are primitive, representing strongly marked and +irregular outlines of lofty mountains, and frequently, in the +nearer ground, masses of strata highly inclined. The outlines on +the contrary, on the north, north-west, and western shores, are +most commonly uniform, rectilinear, the summits flat, and +diversified only by occasional detached and conical peaks, none +of which are very lofty.</p> +<p>4. No information has yet been obtained, from any of the +collections, respecting the diluvial deposits of Australia: a +class of phenomena which is of the highest interest, in an island +of such vast extent, so very remote in situation, and of which +the existing animals are so different from those of other parts +of the globe. It is remarkable, also, that no limestone is among +the specimens from the northern and western shores, except that +of the recent breccia; and although negative conclusions are +hazardous, it would seem probable, from this circumstance, that +limestone cannot be very abundant or conspicuous at the places +visited. No eruptive mountains, nor any traces of recent volcanic +eruption, have yet been observed in any part of Australia.</p> +<p>5. The recent calcareous breccia, of which a detailed +description will be found in the subjoined list of specimens, is +one of the most remarkable productions of New Holland: It was +found, during the expedition of Commodore Baudin, to exist +throughout a space of no less than twenty-five degrees of +latitude, and an equal extent of longitude, on the southern, +west, and north-west coasts;* and from Mr. Brown's specimens it +appears to occur also on the shores of the Gulf of Carpentaria. +The full account which M. Peron has given of this formation, +sufficiently shows its resemblance to the very recent limestone, +full of marine shells, which abounds on the shores of the +Mediterranean, the West India Islands, and in several other parts +of the world: And it is a point of the greatest interest in +geology, to determine, whether any distinct line can really be +drawn, between those concretions, unquestionably of modern +formation, which occur immediately upon the shore; and other +calcareous accumulations, very nearly resembling them, if not +identical, both in the fossils they contain, and in the +characters of the cementing substances, that are found in several +countries, at considerable heights above the sea.</p> +<blockquote>(*Footnote. Voyage 2 page 168, 169 to 216 +etc.)</blockquote> +<p>Dr. Buckland has described a breccia of modern formation, +which occurs upon the shore at Madagascar, and consists of a +firmly-compacted cream-coloured stone, composed of granular +fragments of shells, agglutinated by a calcareous cement.* The +stone of Guadaloupe, containing the human skeletons, is likewise +of the same nature; and its very recent production cannot be +doubted, since it contains fragments of stone axes, and of +pottery.** The cemented shells of Bermuda, described by Captain +Vetch,*** which pass gradually into a compact limestone, differ +only in colour from the Guadaloupe stone; and agree with it, and +with the calcareous breccia of Dirk Hartog's Island, in the +gradual melting down of the cement into the included portions, +which is one of the most remarkable features of that rock.**** A +calcareous compound, apparently of the same kind, has been +recently mentioned, as of daily production in Anastasia Island, +on the coast of East Florida;***** and will probably be found to +be of very general occurrence in that quarter of the globe. And +Captain Beaufort's account of the process by which the gravelly +beach is cemented into stone, at Selinti, and several other +places on the coast of Karamania, on the north-east of the +Mediterranean,****** accords with M. Peron's description of the +progress from the loose and moveable sands of the dunes to solid +masses of rock.******* In the island of Rhodes, also, there are +hills of pudding-stone, of the same character, considerably +elevated above the sea. And Captain W.H. Smyth, the author of +Travels in Sicily, and of the Survey of the Mediterranean +recently published by the Admiralty, informs me, that he has seen +these concretions in Calabria, and on the coasts of the Adriatic; +but still more remarkably in the narrow strip of recent land +(called the Placca) which connects Leucadia, one of the Ionian +Islands, with the continent, and so much resembles a work of art, +that it has been considered as a Roman fabric. The stone +composing this isthmus is so compact, that the best mill-stones +in the Ionian Islands are made from it; but it is in fact nothing +more than gravel and sand cemented by calcareous matter, the +accretion of which is supposed to be rapidly advancing at the +present day.</p> +<blockquote>(*Footnote. Geological Transactions volume 5 page +479.)</blockquote> +<blockquote>(**Footnote. Linnean Transactions 12 page 53 to +57.)</blockquote> +<blockquote>(***Footnote. Geological Transactions 2nd Series +volume 1 page 172.)</blockquote> +<blockquote>(****Footnote. Koenig Philosophical Transactions 1814 +page 107 etc.)</blockquote> +<blockquote>(*****Footnote. Bulletin des Sciences Nat. Mars +1825.)</blockquote> +<blockquote>(******Footnote. Beaufort's Description of the South +Coast of Asia Minor etc. Second edition. London 1818: pages 180 +to 184 etc. In the neighbourhood of Adalia the deposition of +calcareous matter from the water is so copious that an old +watercourse had actually crept upwards to a height of nearly +three feet; and the rapidity of the deposition was such that some +specimens were collected on the grass, where the stony crust was +already formed, although the verdure of the leaf was as yet but +imperfectly withered (page 114): a fact which renders less +extraordinary M. Peron's statement that the excrements of +kangaroos had been found concreted by calcareous matter. Peron +volume 2 page 116.)</blockquote> +<blockquote>(*******Footnote. Voyage 2 116.)</blockquote> +<p>The nearest approach to the concreted sand-rock of Australia, +that I have seen, is in the specimens presented by Dr. Daubeny to +the Bristol Institution, to accompany his excellent paper on the +geology of Sicily;* which prove that the arenaceous breccia of +New Holland is very like that which occupies a great part of the +coast, almost entirely around that island. Some of Dr. Daubeny's +specimens from Monte Calogero, above Sciacca, consist of a +breccia, containing angular fragments of splintery limestone, +united by a cement, composed of minute grains of quartzose-sand +disseminated in a calcareous paste, resembling precisely that of +the breccia of Dirk Hartog's Island: and a compound of this kind, +replete with shells, not far, if at all, different from existing +species, fills up the hollows in most of the older rocks of +Sicily; and is described as occurring, in several places, at very +considerable heights above the sea. Thus, near Palermo, it +constitutes hills some hundred feet in height; near Girgenti, all +the most elevated spots are crowned with a loose stratum of the +same kind; and the heights near Castro Giovanni, said to be 2880 +feet above the sea, are probably composed of it. But although the +concretions of the interior in Sicily much resemble those of the +shore, it is still doubtful whether the former be not of more +ancient formation; and if they contain nummulites, they would +probably be referred to the epoch of the beds within the Paris +basin.</p> +<blockquote>(*Footnote. Edinburgh Philosophical Journal 1825 +pages 116, 117, 118, and 254 to 255.)</blockquote> +<p>The looser breccia of Monte Pelegrino, in Sicily, is very like +the less compacted fragments of shells from Bermuda, described by +Captain Vetch, and already referred to:* and the rock in both +these cases, nearly approaches to some of the coarser oolites of +England.</p> +<blockquote>(*Footnote. These specimens are in the Museum of the +Geological Society.)</blockquote> +<p>The resemblance pointed out by M. Prevost,* of the specimens +of recent breccia from New Holland, in the museum at the Jardin +du Roi, to those of St. Hospice near Nice, is confirmed by the +detail given by Mr. Allan in his sketch of the geology of that +neighbourhood;** in which the perfect preservation of the shells, +and their near approach to those of the adjoining sea at the +present day, are particularly mentioned; and it is inferred that +the date of the deposit which affords them, is anterior to that +of the conglomerate containing the bones of extinct quadrupeds, +likewise found in that country. M. Brongniart also, who examined +the place himself, mentions the recent accumulation which occurs +at St. Hospice, about sixty feet above the present level of the +sea, as containing marine shells in a scarcely fossil state (a +peine fossiles) and he describes the mass in which they occur, as +belonging to a formation still more recent than the upper marine +beds of the environs of Paris.***</p> +<blockquote>(*Footnote. Prevost manuscripts. See +hereafter.)</blockquote> +<blockquote>(**Footnote. Transactions of the Royal Society of +Edinburgh volume 8 1818 page 427 etc. See also the previous +publications of M. Risso Journal des Mines tome 34 +etc.)</blockquote> +<blockquote>(***Footnote. Brongniart in Cuvier Ossemens Fossiles; +2nd Edit. volume 2 page 427.)</blockquote> +<p>The geological period indicated by these facts, being probably +more recent than the tertiary beds containing nummulites, and +generally than the Paris and London strata, accords with the date +which has hitherto been assigned to the crag beds of Suffolk, +Essex, and Norfolk:* but later observations render doubtful the +opinion generally received respecting the age of these remarkable +deposits, and a full and satisfactory account of them is still a +desideratum in the geology of England. When, also, our imperfect +acquaintance with the travertino of Italy, and other very modern +limestones containing freshwater shells, is considered,** the +continual deposition of which, at the present time, cannot be +questioned (though probably the greater part of the masses which +consist of them may belong to an era preceding the actual +condition of the earth's surface) it would seem that the whole +subject of these newer calcareous formations requires +elucidation: and, if the inferences connected with them do not +throw considerable doubt upon some opinions at present generally +received, they show, at least, that a great deal more is to be +learned respecting the operations and products of the most recent +geological epochs, than is commonly supposed.</p> +<blockquote>(*Footnote. Conybeare and Phillips Outlines etc. page +11, Geological Transactions 1 page 327 etc. Taylor in Geological +Transactions 2nd series Volume 2 page 371. Mr. Taylor states the +important fact that the remains of unknown animals are buried +together with the shells in the crag of Suffolk; but does not +mention the nature of these remains. Since these pages have been +at the press, Mr. Warburton, by whom the coast of Essex and +Norfolk has been examined with great accuracy, has informed me +that the fossil bones of the crag are the same with those of the +diluvial gravel, including the remains of the elephant, +rhinoceros, stag, etc.)</blockquote> +<blockquote>(**Footnote. Some valuable observations on the +formation of recent limestone, in beds of shelly marl at the +bottom of lakes in Scotland, have been read before the Geological +Society by Mr. Lyell, and will appear in the volume of the +Transactions now in the press. See Annals of Philosophy 1825 page +310.)</blockquote> +<p>Since it appears that the accretion of calcareous matter is +continually going on at the present time, and has probably taken +place at all times, the stone thus formed, independent of the +organized bodies which it envelopes, will afford no criterion of +its date, nor give any very certain clue to the revolutions which +have subsequently acted upon it. But as MARINE shells are found +in the cemented masses, at heights above the sea, to which no +ordinary natural operations could have conveyed them, the +elevation of these shells to their actual place (if not that of +the rock in which they are agglutinated) must be referred to some +other agency: while the perfect preservation of the shells, their +great quantity, and the abundance of the same species in the same +places, make it more probable that they lay originally in the +situations where we now find them, than that they have been +transported from any considerable distances, or elevated by any +very turbulent operation. Captain de Freycinet, indeed, mentions +that patellae, worn by attrition, and other recent shells, have +been found on the west coast of New Holland, on the top of a wall +of rocks an hundred feet above the sea, evidently brought up by +the surge during violent storms;* but such shells are found in +the breccia of Sicily, and in several other places, at heights +too great, and their preservation is too perfect, to admit of +this mode of conveyance; and to account for their existence in +such situations, recourse must be had to more powerful means of +transport.</p> +<blockquote>(* Freycinet page 187. The presence of shells in such +situations may often be ascribed to the birds, which feed on +their inhabitants. At Madeira, where recent shells are found near +the coast at a considerable height above the sea, the Gulls have +been seen carrying up the living patellae, just taken from the +rocks.)</blockquote> +<p>The occurrence of corals, and marine shells of recent +appearance, at considerable heights above the sea, on the coasts +of New Holland, Timor, and several other islands of the south, +was justly considered by M. Peron as demonstrating the former +abode of the sea above the land; and very naturally suggested an +inquiry, as to the nature of the revolutions to which this change +of situation is to be ascribed.* From similar appearances at Pulo +Nias, one of the islands off the western coast of Sumatra, Dr. +Jack also was led to infer, that the surface of that island must +at one time have been the bed of the ocean; and after stating, +that by whatever means it obtained its present elevation, the +transition must have been effected with little violence or +disturbance to the marine productions at the surface,** he +concludes, that the phenomena are in favour of a HEAVING UP OF +THE LAND, BY A FORCE FROM BENEATH. The probable nature of this +force is indicated most distinctly, if not demonstrated, by the +phenomena which attended the memorable earthquake of Chili, in +November, 1820,*** which was felt throughout a space of fifteen +hundred miles from north to south. For it is stated upon the +clearest evidence, that after formidable shocks of earthquake, +repeated with little interruption during the whole night of the +19th of November (and the shocks were continued afterwards, at +intervals, for several months) IT APPEARED, on the morning of the +20th, THAT THE WHOLE LINE OF COAST FROM NORTH TO SOUTH, TO A +DISTANCE OF ABOUT ONE HUNDRED MILES, HAD BEEN RAISED ABOVE ITS +FORMER LEVEL. The alteration of level at Valparaiso was about +three feet; and some rocks were thus newly exposed, on which the +fishermen collected the scallop-shell fish, which was not known +to exist there before the earthquake. At Quintero the elevation +was about four feet. "When I went," the narrator adds, "to +examine the coast, although it was high-water, I found the +ancient bed of the sea laid bare, and dry, with beds of oysters, +mussels, and other shells adhering to the rocks on which they +grew, the fish being all dead, and exhaling most offensive +effluvia. And I found good reason to believe that the coast had +been raised by earthquakes at former periods in a similar manner; +several ancient lines of beach, consisting OF SHINGLE MIXED WITH +SHELLS, extending, in a parallel direction to the shore, to the +height of fifty feet above the sea." Such an accumulation of +geological evidence, from different quarters and distinct classes +of phenomena, concurs to demonstrate the existence of most +powerful expansive forces within the earth, and to testify their +agency in producing the actual condition of its surface, that the +phenomena just now described are nothing more than what was to be +expected from previous induction. These facts, however, not only +place beyond dispute the existence of such forces, but show that, +even in detail, their effects accord most satisfactorily with the +predictions of theory. It is not, therefore, at all unreasonable +to conceive, that, in other situations, phenomena of the same +character have been produced by the same cause, though we may not +at present be enabled to trace its connexion with the existing +appearances so distinctly; and though the facts, when they +occurred, may have been unnoticed, or may have taken place at +periods beyond the reach of historical record, or even beyond the +possibility of human testimony.</p> +<blockquote>(*Footnote. Peron Voyage etc. volume 2 pages 165 to +183.)</blockquote> +<blockquote>(**Footnote. Geological Transactions Second Series +volume 1 page 403, 404.)</blockquote> +<blockquote>(***Footnote. The statements here referred to, are +those of Mrs. Graham, in a letter to Mr. Warburton, which has +been published in the Geological Transactions Second Series +volume 1 page 412, etc.; and the account is supported and +illustrated by a valuable paper in the Journal of the Royal +Institution for April 1824 volume 17 page 38 etc.) The writer of +this latter article asserts that the whole country, from the foot +of the Andes to far out at sea, was raised by the earthquake; the +greatest rise being at the distance of about two miles from the +shore. The rise upon the coast was from two to four feet: at the +distance of a mile, inland, it must have been from five to six, +or seven feet, pages 40, 45.)</blockquote> +<p>M. Peron has attributed the great abundance of the modern +breccia of New Holland to the large proportion of calcareous +matter, principally in the form of comminuted shells, which is +diffused through the siliceous sand of the shores in that +country;* and as the temperature, especially of the summer, is +very high on that part of the coast where this rock has been +principally found, the increased solution of carbonate of lime by +the percolating water, may possibly render its formation more +abundant there, than in more temperate climates. But the true +theory of these concretions, under any modification of +temperature, is attended with considerable difficulty: and it is +certain that the process is far from being confined to the warmer +latitudes. Dr. Paris has given an account of a modern formation +of sandstone on the northern coast of Cornwall;** where a large +surface is covered with a calcareous sand, that becomes +agglutinated into a stone, which he considers as analogous to the +rocks of Guadaloupe; and of which the specimens that I have seen, +resemble those presented by Captain Beaufort to the Geological +Society, from the shore at Rhodes. Dr. Paris ascribes this +concretion, not to the agency of the sea, nor to an excess of +carbonic acid, but to the solution of carbonate of lime itself in +water, and subsequent percolation through calcareous sand; the +great hardness of the stone arising from the very sparing +solubility of this carbonate, and the consequently very gradual +formation of the deposit--Dr. MacCulloch describes calcareous +concretions, found in banks of sand in Perthshire, which present +a great variety of stalactitic forms, generally more or less +complicated, and often exceedingly intricate and strange,*** and +which appear to be analogous to those of King George's Sound and +Sweer's Island: And he mentions, as not unfrequently occurring in +sand, in different parts of England (the sand above the fossil +bones of Norfolk is given as an example) long cylinders or tubes, +composed of sand agglutinated by carbonate of lime, or calcareous +stalactites entangling sand, which, like the concretions of +Madeira, and those taken for corals at Bald-Head, have been +ranked improperly, with organic remains.</p> +<blockquote>(*Footnote. Peron Voyage etc. 2 page +116.)</blockquote> +<blockquote>(**Footnote. Transactions of the Geological Society +of Cornwall volume 1 page 1 etc.)</blockquote> +<blockquote>(***Footnote. On an arenaceo-calcareous substance, +etc. Quarterly Journal Royal Institution October 1823 volume 16 +page 79 to 83.)</blockquote> +<p>The stone which forms the fragments in the breccia of New +Holland, is very nearly the same with that of the cement by which +they are united, the difference consisting only in the greater +proportion of sand which the fragments contain: and it would +seem, that after the consolidation of the former, and while the +deposition of similar calcareous matter was still in progress, +the portions first consolidated must have been shattered by +considerable violence. But, where no such fragments exist, the +unequal diffusion of components at first uniformly mixed, and +even the formation of nodules differing in proportions from the +paste which surrounds them, may perhaps admit of explanation, by +some process analogous to what takes place in the preparation of +the compound of which the ordinary earthenware is manufactured; +where, though the ingredients are divided by mechanical attrition +only, a sort of chemical action produces, under certain +circumstances, a new arrangement of the parts.* And this +explanation may, probably, be extended to those nodular +concretions, generally considered as contemporaneous with the +paste in which they are enveloped, the distinction of which, from +conglomerates of mechanical origin, forms, in many cases, a +difficulty in geology. What the degree may be, of subdivision +required to dispose the particles to act thus upon each other, or +of fluidity to admit of their action, remains still to be +determined.</p> +<blockquote>(*Footnote. The clay and pulverized flints are +combined for the use of the potter, by being first separately +diffused in water to the consistence of thick cream, and when +mixed in due proportion are reduced to a proper consistence by +evaporation. During this process, if the evaporation be not rapid +and immediate, or if the ingredients are left to act on each +other, even for twenty-four hours, the flinty particles unite +into sandy grains, and the mass becomes unfit for the purposes of +the manufacturer. I am indebted for this interesting fact, which, +I believe, is well known in some of the potteries, to my friend +Mr. Arthur Aikin. And Mr. Herschel informs me, that a similar +change takes place in recently precipitated carbonate of copper; +which, if left long moist, concretes into hard gritty grains, of +a green colour, much more difficultly soluble in ammonia than the +original precipitate.)</blockquote> +<p>6. As the superficial extent of Australia is more than +three-fourths of that of Europe, and the interior may be regarded +as unknown,* any theoretic inferences, from the slight geological +information hitherto obtained respecting this great island, are +very likely to be deceitful; but among the few facts already +ascertained respecting the northern portion of it, there are some +which appear to afford a glimpse of general structure.</p> +<p>Captain Flinders, in describing the position of the chains of +islands on the north-west coast of Carpentaria, Wessel's, the +English Company's, and Bromby's Islands, remarks, that he had +"frequently observed a great similarity both in the ground plans, +and the elevations of hills, and of islands, in the vicinity of +each other, but did not recollect another instance of such a +likeness in the arrangement of clusters of islands."* The +appearances which called for this observation, from a voyager of +so much sagacity and experience in physical geography, must +probably have been very remarkable; and, combined with +information derivable from the charts, and from the specimens for +which we are indebted to Captain King and Mr. Brown, they would +seem to point out the arrangement of the strata on the northern +coasts of New Holland.</p> +<blockquote>(*Footnote. The following are the proportions +assigned by Captain de Freycinet to the principal divisions of +the globe. Voyage aux Terres Australes page 107. +<p><b>COLUMN 1: DIVISION OF THE GLOBE.<br> +COLUMN 2: AREA IN FRENCH LEAGUES SQUARE.<br> +COLUMN 3: PROPORTION.</b></p> +<p>Asia : 2,200,000 : 17.<br> +America : 2,100,000 : 17.<br> +Africa : 1,560,000 : 12.<br> +Europe : 501,875 : 4.<br> +Australia : 384,375 : 3.</p> +<p>The most remote points from the coast of New South Wales, to +which the late expeditions have penetrated (and the interior has +never yet been examined in any other quarter) are not above 500 +miles, in a direct line from the sea; the average width of the +island from east to west being more than 2000 miles, and from +north to south more than 1000 miles.)</p> +</blockquote> +<blockquote>(*Footnote. Flinders 5 2 page 246; and Charts, Plates +14 and 15. King's Charts, Plate 4.)</blockquote> +<p>Of the three ranges which attracted Captain Flinders' notice +(see the Map) the first on the south-east (3, 4, 5, 6, 7) is that +which includes the Red Cliffs, Mallison's Island, a part of the +coast of Arnhem's Land, from Cape Newbold to Cape Wilberforce, +and Bromby's Isles; and its length, from the mainland (3) on the +south-west of Mallison's Island, to Bromby's Isles (7) is more +than fifty miles, in a direction nearly from south-west to +north-east. The English Company's Islands (2, 2, 2, 2) at a +distance of about four miles, are of equal extent; and the +general trending of them all, Captain Flinders states (page 233) +is nearly North-East by East, parallel with the line of the main +coast, and with Bromby's Islands. Wessel's Islands (1, 1, 1, 1) +the third or most northern chain, at fourteen miles from the +second range, stretch out to more than eighty miles from the +mainland, likewise in the same direction.</p> +<center> +<p><a name="king2-12"></a><img alt="" src="images/king2-12.jpg"></p> +<p><b>MAP OF THE CHAINS OF ISLANDS ON THE NORTH-WEST COAST OF +CARPENTARIA</b></p> +</center> +<p> </p> +<p>It is also stated by Captain Flinders, that three of the +English Company's Islands which were examined, slope down nearly +to the water on their west sides; but on the east, and more +especially the south-east, they present steep cliffs; and the +same conformation, he adds, seemed to prevail in the other +islands.* If this structure occurred only in one or two +instances, it might be considered as accidental; but as it +obtains in so many cases, and is in harmony with the direction of +the ranges, it is not improbably of still more extensive +occurrence, and would intimate a general elevation of the strata +towards the south-east.</p> +<blockquote>(*Footnote. Flinders Volume 2 page 235.)</blockquote> +<p>Now on examining the general map, it will be seen, that the +lines of the coast on the mainland, west of the Gulf of +Carpentaria, between Limmen's Bight and Cape Arnhem--from the +bottom of Castlereagh Bay to Point Dale--less distinctly from +Point Pearce, latitude 14 degrees 23 minutes, longitude 129 +degrees 18 minutes, to the western extremity of Cobourg +Peninsula, and from Point Coulomb, latitude 17 degrees 20 +minutes, longitude 123 degrees 11 minutes, to Cape Londonderry, +have nearly the same direction; the first line being about one +hundred and eighty geographical miles, the second more than three +hundred, and the last more than four hundred miles, in length.* +And these lines, though broken by numerous irregularities, +especially on the north-west coast, are yet sufficiently distinct +to indicate a probable connexion with the geological structure of +the country; since the coincidence of similar ranges of coast +with the direction of the strata, is a fact of very frequent +occurrence in other parts of the globe.** And it is observable +that considerable uniformity exists in the specimens, from the +different places in this quarter of New Holland which have been +hitherto examined; sandstone, like that of the older formations +of Europe occurring generally on the north and north-west coasts, +and appearing to be extensively diffused on the north-west of the +Gulf of Carpentaria, where it reposes upon primitive +rocks.***</p> +<blockquote>(*Footnote. It is deserving of notice, that the coast +of Timor, the nearest land on the north-west, at the distance of +about 300 miles, is also nearly straight, and parallel to the +Coast of New Holland in this quarter: part of the mountainous +range, of which that island consists, being probably more than +9000 feet high; and its length, from the north-eastern extremity +to the South-West of the adjoining island of Rottee, about 300 +miles. But, unfortunately for the hypothesis, a chain of islands +immediately on the north of Timor, is continued nearly in a right +line for more than 1200 miles (from Sermatta Island to the +south-eastern extremity of Java) in a direction FROM EAST TO +WEST. This chain, however, contains several volcanoes, including +those of Sumbawa, the eruption of which, in 1815, was of +extraordinary violence. See Royal Inst. Journal volume 1 1816 +page 248 etc. +<p>At Lacrosse Island, in the mouth of Cambridge Gulf, on the +north-west coast of New Holland, the beds rise to the North-West: +their direction consequently is from South-West to North-East; +and the rise towards the high land of Timor. The intervening sea +is very shallow.)</p> +</blockquote> +<blockquote>(**Footnote. A remarkable case of this kind, which +has not, I believe, been noticed, occurs in the Mediterranean; +and is conspicuous in the new chart of that sea, by Captain W.H. +Smyth. The eastern coast of Corsica and Sardinia, for a space of +more than two hundred geographical miles being nearly +rectilinear, in a direction from north to south; and, Captain +Smyth has informed me, consisting almost entirely of granite, or, +at least, of primitive rocks. The coast of Norway affords another +instance of the same description; and the details of the ranges +in the interior of England furnish several examples of the same +kind, on a smaller scale.)</blockquote> +<blockquote>(***Footnote. The coastlines nearly at rightangles to +those above-mentioned--from the South-East of the Gulf of +Carpentaria to Limmen's Bight, from Cape Arnhem to Cape Croker, +and from Cape Domett to Cape Londonderry--have also a certain +degree of linearity; but much less remarkable, than those which +run from South-West to North-East.)</blockquote> +<p>The horn-like projection of the land, on the east of the Gulf +of Carpentaria, is a very prominent feature in the general map of +Australia, and may possibly have some connexion with the +structure just pointed out. The western shore of this horn, from +the bottom of the gulf to Endeavour Straits, being very low; +while the land on the east coast rises in proceeding towards the +south, and after passing Cape Weymouth, latitude 12 degrees 30 +minutes, is in general mountainous and abrupt; and Captain King's +specimens from the north-east coast show that granite is found in +so many places along this line as to make it probable that +primitive rocks may form the general basis of the country in that +quarter; since a lofty chain of mountains is continued on the +south of Cape Tribulation, not far from the shore, throughout a +space of more than five hundred miles. It would carry this +hypothesis too far to infer that these primitive ranges are +connected with the mountains on the west of the English +settlements near Port Jackson, etc., where Mr. Scott has +described the coal-measures as occupying the coast from Port +Stevens, about latitude 33 degrees to Cape Howe, latitude 37 +degrees, and as succeeded, on the eastern ascent of the Blue +Mountains, by sandstone, and this again by primitive strata:* But +it may be noticed that Wilson's Promontory, the most southern +point of New South Wales, and the principal islands in Bass +Strait, contain granite; and that primitive rocks occur +extensively in Van Diemen's Land.</p> +<blockquote>(*Footnote. Annals of Philosophy June +1824.)</blockquote> +<p>The uniformity of the coastlines is remarkable also in some +other quarters of Australia; and their direction, as well as that +of the principal openings, has a general tendency to a course +from the west of south to the east of north. This, for example, +is the general range of the south-east coast, from Cape Howe, +about latitude 37 degrees, to Cape Byron, latitude 29 degrees, or +even to Sandy Cape, latitude 25 degrees; and of the western +coast, from the south of the islands which enclose Shark's Bay, +latitude 26 degrees, to North-west Cape, about latitude 22 +degrees. From Cape Hamelin, latitude 34 degrees 12 minutes, to +Cape Naturaliste, latitude 33 degrees 26 minutes, the coast runs +nearly on the meridian. The two great fissures of the south +coast, Spencer's, and St. Vincent's Gulfs, as well as the great +northern chasm of the Gulf of Carpentaria, have a corresponding +direction; and Captain Flinders (Chart 4) represents a high ridge +of rocky and barren mountains, on the east of Spencer's Gulf, as +continued, nearly from north to south, through a space of more +than one hundred geographical miles, between latitude 32 degrees +7 minutes and 34 degrees. Mount Brown, one of the summits of this +ridge, about latitude 32 degrees 30 minutes, being visible at the +distance of twenty leagues.</p> +<p>The tendency of all this evidence is somewhat in favour of a +general parallelism in the range of the strata, and perhaps of +the existence of primary ranges of mountains on the east of +Australia in general, from the coast about Cape Weymouth* to the +shore between Spencer's Gulf and Cape Howe. But it must not be +forgotten, that the distance between these shores is more than a +thousand miles in a direct line; about as far as from the west +coast of Ireland to the Adriatic, or double the distance between +the Baltic and the Mediterranean. If, however, future researches +should confirm the indications above mentioned, a new case will +be supplied in support of the principle long since advanced by +Mr. Michell,** which appears (whatever theory be formed to +explain it) to be established by geological observation in so +many other parts of the world, that the outcrop of the inclined +beds, throughout the stratified portion of the globe, is +everywhere parallel to the longer ridges of mountains, towards +which, also, the elevation of the strata is directed. But in the +present state of our information respecting Australia, all such +general views are so very little more than mere conjecture, that +the desire to furnish ground for new inquiry, is, perhaps, the +best excuse that can be offered for having proposed them.</p> +<blockquote>(*Footnote. The possible correspondence of the great +Australian Bight, the coast of which in general is of no great +elevation, with the deeply-indented Gulf of Carpentaria, tending, +as it were, to a division of this great island into two, accords +with this hypothesis of mountain ranges: but the distance between +these recesses, over the land at the nearest points, is not less +than a thousand English miles. The granite, on the south coast, +at Investigator's Islands, and westward, at Middle Island, Cape +Le Grand, King George's Sound, and Cape Naturaliste, is very wide +of the line above-mentioned, and nothing is yet known of its +relations.)</blockquote> +<blockquote>(**Footnote. On the Cause of Earthquakes. +Philosophical Transactions 1760 volume 51 page 566 to 585, +586.)</blockquote> +<hr align="center" width="20%"> +<h3>DETAILED LIST OF SPECIMENS.</h3> +<p>The specimens mentioned in the following list have been +compared with some of those of England and other countries, +principally in the cabinets of the Geological Society, and of Mr. +Greenough; and with a collection from part of the confines of the +primitive tracts of England and North Wales, formed by Mr. Arthur +Aikin, and now in his own possession. Captain King's collection +has been presented to the Geological Society; and duplicates of +Mr. Brown's specimens are deposited in the British Museum.</p> +<p>RODD'S BAY, on the East Coast, discovered by Captain King, +about sixty miles south of Cape Capricorn.* Reddish sandstone, of +moderately-fine grain, resembling that which in England occurs in +the coal formation, and beneath it (mill-stone grit). A sienitic +compound, consisting of a large proportion of reddish felspar, +with specks of a green substance, probably mica; resembling a +rock from Shap in Cumberland.</p> +<blockquote>(*Footnote. In Captain King's collection are also +specimens found on the beach at Port Macquarie, and in the bed of +the Hastings River, of common serpentine, and of botryoidal +magnesite, from veins in serpentine. The magnesite agrees nearly +with that of Baudissero, in Piedmont. (See Cleaveland's +Mineralogy 1st edition page 345.)</blockquote> +<p>CAPE CLINTON, between Rodd's Bay and the Percy Islands. +Porphyritic conglomerate, with a base of decomposed felspar, +enclosing grains of quartz and common felspar, and some fragments +of what appears to be compact epidote; very nearly resembling +specimens from the trap rocks* of the Wrekin and Breeden Hills in +Shropshire. Reddish and yellowish sandy clay, coloured by oxide +of iron, and used as pigments by the natives.</p> +<blockquote>(*Footnote. By the terms Trap, and Trap-formation, +which I am aware are extremely vague, I intend merely to signify +a class of rocks, including several members, which differ from +each other considerably in mineralogical character, but agree in +some of their principal geological relations; and the origin of +which very numerous phenomena concur in referring to some +modification of volcanic agency. The term Greenstone also is of +very loose application, and includes rocks that exhibit a wide +range of characters; the predominant colour being some shade of +green, the structure more or less crystalline, and the chief +ingredients supposed to be hornblende and felspar, but the +components, if they could be accurately determined, probably more +numerous and varied, than systematic lists imply.)</blockquote> +<p>PERCY ISLANDS, about one hundred and forty miles north of Cape +Capricorn. Compact felspar of a flesh-red hue, enclosing a few +small crystals of reddish felspar and of quartz. This specimen is +marked "general character of the rocks at Percy Island," and very +much resembles the compact felspar of the Pentland Hills near +Edinburgh, and of Saxony. Coarse porphyritic conglomerate, of a +reddish hue. Serpentine. A trap-like compound, with somewhat the +aspect of serpentine, but yielding with difficulty to the knife. +This specimen has, at first sight, the appearance of a +conglomerate, made up of portions of different hues, purplish, +brown, and green; but the coloured parts are not otherwise +distinguishable in the fracture: It very strongly resembles a +rock which occurs in the trap-formation, near Lyd-Hole, at +Pont-y-Pool, in Shropshire. Slaty clay, with particles of mica, +like that which frequently occurs immediately beneath beds of +coal.</p> +<p>REPULSE ISLAND, in Repulse Bay, about one hundred and twenty +miles north-west of the Percy Islands. Indistinct specimens, +apparently consisting of decomposed compact felspar. A compound +of quartz, mica, and felspar, having the appearance of +re-composed granite.</p> +<p>CAPE CLEVELAND, about one hundred and twenty miles north of +Repulse Island. Yellowish-grey granite, with brown mica; "from +the summit of the hill." Reddish granite, of very fine grain; +with the aspect of sandstone. Dark grey porphyritic hornstone, +approaching to compact felspar, with imbedded crystals of +felspar.</p> +<p>CAPE GRAFTON, about one hundred and eighty miles west of north +from Cape Cleveland. Close-grained grey and yellowish-grey +granite, with brown mica. A reddish granitic stone, composed of +quartz, felspar, and tourmaline.</p> +<p>ENDEAVOUR RIVER, about one hundred miles west of north from +Cape Grafton. Grey granite of several varieties; from a peaked +hill under Mount Cook and its vicinity. Granular quartz-rock of +several varieties: and indistinct specimens of a rock approaching +to talc-slate.</p> +<p>LIZARD ISLAND, about fifty miles east of north from Endeavour +River. Grey granite, consisting of brown and white mica, quartz, +and a large proportion of felspar somewhat decomposed.</p> +<p>CLACK ISLAND, near Cape Flinders, on the north-west of Cape +Melville, about ninety miles north-west of Lizard Island. +Smoke-grey micaceous slaty-clay, much like certain beds of the +old red sandstone, where it graduates into grey wacke. This +specimen was taken from a horizontal bed about ten feet in +thickness, reposing upon a mass of pudding-stone, which included +large pebbles of quartz and jasper; and above it was a mass of +sandstone, more than sixty feet thick. (Narrative volume 2.)</p> +<p>SUNDAY ISLAND, near Cape Grenville, about one hundred and +seventy miles west of north from Cape Melville. Compact felspar, +of a flesh-red colour; very nearly resembling that of the Percy +Islands, above-mentioned.</p> +<p>GOOD'S ISLAND, one of the Prince of Wales group, about +latitude 10 degrees, thirty-four miles north-west of Cape York. +The specimens, in Mr. Brown's collection from this place, consist +of coarse-slaty porphyritic conglomerate, with a base of +greenish-grey compact felspar, containing crystals of reddish +felspar and quartz. This rock has some resemblance to that of +Clack Island above-mentioned.</p> +<p>SWEER'S ISLAND, south of Wellesley's group, at the bottom of +the Gulf of Carpentaria. A stalactitic concretion of quartzose +sand, and fine gravel, cemented by reddish carbonate of lime; +apparently of the same nature with the stem-like concretions of +King George's Sound: (See hereafter.) In this specimen the +tubular cavity of the stalactite is still open.</p> +<p>The shore, in various parts of this island, was found to +consist of red ferruginous matter (Bog-iron-ore ?) sometimes +unmixed, but not unfrequently mingled with a sandy calcareous +stone; and in some places rounded portions of the ferruginous +matter were enveloped in a calcareous cement.</p> +<p>BENTINCK ISLAND, near Sweer's Island. A granular compound, +like sandstone recomposed from the debris of granite. Brown +hematite, enclosing quartzose sand.</p> +<p>PISONIA ISLAND, on the east of Mornington's Island, is +composed of calcareous breccia and pudding-stone, which consist +of a sandy calcareous cement, including water-worn portions of +reddish ferruginous matter, with fragments of shells.</p> +<p>NORTH ISLAND, one of Sir Edward Pellew's group. Coarse +siliceous sand, concreted by ferruginous matter; which, in some +places, is in the state of brown hematite. Calcareous +incrustations, including fragments of madrepores, and of shells, +cemented by splintery carbonate of lime.</p> +<p>CAPE-MARIA ISLAND, in Limmen's Bight, was found by Mr. Brown +to be composed principally of sandstone. The specimens from this +place, however, consist of grey splintery hornstone, with traces +of a slaty structure; and of yellowish-grey flint, approaching to +chalcedony; with a coarse variety of cacholong, containing small +nests of quartz crystals.</p> +<p>GROOTE EYLANDT is composed of sandstone, of which two +different varieties occur among the specimens. A quartzose +reddish sandstone, of moderately fine grain; and a coarse reddish +compound, consisting almost exclusively of worn pebbles of +quartz, some of which are more than half an inch in diameter, +with a few rounded pebbles of chalcedony. The latter rock is +nearly identical with that of Simms' Island, near Goulburn's +Island on the north coast.</p> +<p>CHASM ISLAND, WINCHELSEA ISLAND, and BURNEY'S ISLAND, are of +the same materials as Groote Eylandt: and sandstone was found +also on the western shore of BLUE-MUD BAY.</p> +<p>On the shore of the mainland, opposite to Groote Eylandt, a +little north of latitude 14 degrees, Mr. Brown observed the +common sandy calcareous stone, projecting here and there in +ragged fragments.</p> +<p>MORGAN'S ISLAND, in Blue-Mud Bay, north-west of Groote +Eylandt, is composed principally of clink-stone, sometimes +indistinctly columnar. But among the specimens are also a coarse +conglomerate of a dull purplish colour, including pebbles of +granular quartz and a fragment of a slaty rock like potstone: the +hue and aspect of the compound being precisely those of the +oldest sandstones. Reddish quartzose sandstone, of uniform and +fine grain. A concretion of rounded quartz pebbles, cemented by +ferruginous matter, apparently of recent formation.</p> +<p>ROUND HILL, near Cape Grindall, a prominence east of north +from Blue-Mud Bay, was found by Captain Flinders to consist, at +the upper part, of sandstone. The specimens of the rocks in its +vicinity are, dark grey granite, somewhat approaching to gneiss, +with a few specks of garnet; and a calcareous, probably +concretional stone, enclosing the remains of shells, with +cavities lined with crystals of calcareous spar.</p> +<p>MOUNT CALEDON, on the mainland, west of Caledon Bay, consists +of grey granite, with dark brown mica in small quantity; and on +the sides and top of the hill large loose blocks of that rock +were observed, resting upon other blocks.</p> +<p>A small island, near Cape Arnhem, is also composed of granite, +in which the felspar has a bluish hue.</p> +<p>Smaller of the MELVILLE ISLANDS, north-east of Melville Bay.* +A botryoidal mass of ferruginous oxide of manganese, approaching +to hematite; the fissures in some places occupied by carbonate of +lime.</p> +<blockquote>(*Footnote. The relative position of the islands and +bays on this part of the coast is represented in the enlarged +Map.)</blockquote> +<p>MELVILLE BAY. Granite, composed of grey and somewhat bluish +felspar, dark brown mica, and a little quartz; containing minute +disseminated specks of molybdena, and indistinct crystals of pale +red garnet.</p> +<p>RED CLIFFS, south-west of Arnhem Bay; on the line of the first +chain of islands mentioned by Captain Flinders. (See the Map, +figure 3.) Friable conglomerate, of a full brick-red colour, +consisting of minute grains of quartz, with a large proportion of +ochreous matter.</p> +<p>MALLISON'S ISLAND. (Map, figure 4.) The cliffs of this island +are composed of a fissile primitive rock, on which sandstone +reposes in regular beds. The specimen of the former resembles +gneiss, or mica slate, near the contact with granite: the +sandstone is thick-slaty, quartzose, of a reddish hue, with mica +disseminated on the surfaces of the joints; and one face of the +specimen is incrusted with quartz crystals, thinly coated with +botryoidal hematite. Light grey quartzose sandstone of a fine +grain, with a thin coating of brown hematite, was also found in +this island: And a breccia, consisting of angular fragments of +sandstone, cemented by thin, vein-like, coatings of dark brown +hematite, was found there, in loose blocks at the bottom of +perpendicular cliffs. The specimen of this breccia is attached to +a plate of granular quartz, and may possibly have been part of a +vein.</p> +<p>The shore of INGLIS' ISLAND, the largest of the ENGLISH +COMPANY'S RANGE (2. 2. 2. in the Map) is formed of flat beds, of +a slaty argillaceous rock, which breaks into rhomboidal +fragments; but the specimen is indistinct. Ferruginous masses, +probably consisting of brown hematite, come also from this +island.</p> +<p>ASTELL'S ISLAND, north-east of Inglis' Isle. Very fine-grained +greyish-white quartzose sandstone; identical with that of +Mallison's Island, and very closely resembling some of the +specimens from Prince Regent's and Hunter's Rivers.</p> +<p>Among the remaining islands of this range, BOSANQUET'S, +COTTON'S, and POBASSOO's Isles, were found by Mr. Brown to +consist, in a great measure, of sandstone, of the same character +with the specimens above-mentioned.</p> +<p>POBASSOO'S ISLAND, a small islet south-east of Astell's Isle. +Fine-grained, somewhat reddish, sandstone. Another specimen of +sandstone is friable, of a light flesh-red colour, and apparently +composed of the debris of granite. A crystalline rock, consisting +of greenish-grey hornblende, with a very small proportion of +felspar (Hornblende rock ?). Fragment, apparently from a columnar +mass, of a stone intermediate between clink-stone and compact +felspar.</p> +<p>Such of the English Company's Islands as were examined by +Captain Flinders, are stated by him to consist, in the upper +part, of a grit, or sandstone, of a close texture; the lower part +being argillaceous, and stratified, and separating into pieces of +a reddish colour, resembling flat tiles. The strata-dip to the +west, at an angle of about 15 degrees.</p> +<p>South-west bay of GOULBURN'S SOUTH ISLAND, two hundred and +fifty miles west of the Gulf of Carpentaria (Narrative 1). +Coarse-grained reddish quartzose conglomerate and sandstone; +resembling the older sandstones of England and Wales, and +especially the mill-stone grit beneath the coal formation. Fine +greyish-white pipe-clay; of which about thirty feet in thickness +were visible, apparently above the sandstone last mentioned. +Coarse-grained, ferruginous sandstone, containing fragments of +quartz, from above the pipe-clay. The appearance of the cliff +from which these specimens were taken, is represented in the view +of the bay on the south of Goulburn Island (volume 1); and a +distant head in the view consists of the same materials.</p> +<p>SIMMS ISLAND, on the west of Goulburn's south Island +(Narrative 1) is composed of a reddish conglomerate, nearly +identical with some of the specimens above-mentioned.</p> +<p>The western side of LETHBRIDGE BAY, on the north of MELVILLE +ISLAND, consists of a range of cliffs like those at Goulburn's +Island; the upper part being red, the lower white and composed of +pipe-clay. The western extremity of BATHURST ISLAND, between CAPE +HELVETIUS and CAPE FOURCROY, is also formed of cliffs of a very +dark red colour.</p> +<p>LACROSSE ISLAND, at the mouth of CAMBRIDGE GULF, about one +hundred miles from Port Keats. Reddish, very quartzose sandstone; +from a stratum which dips to the south-east, at an angle of about +ten or fifteen degrees. Micaceous and argillaceous fissile +sandstone, of purplish and greenish hues, in patches, or +occasionally intermixed; precisely resembling the rock of Brecon, +in South Wales, and, generally, the old red sandstone of the +vicinity of Bristol and the confines of England and Wales. +Fine-grained thin-slaty sandstone, resembling certain beds of the +coal formation, or of the millstone grit, is found in large +masses, under an argillaceous cliff, on the north side of +Lacrosse Island.</p> +<p>The specimens from the interior of Cambridge Gulf are from +ADOLPHUS ISLAND, and consist of reddish and grey sandstone, more +or less decomposed.</p> +<p>VANSITTART BAY, about one hundred and forty miles north-west +of Cambridge Gulf. Reddish quartzose sandstone, or quartz-rock. +Indistinct specimens of greenstone, with adhering quartz; +apparently a primitive rock.</p> +<p>PORT WARRENDER, at the bottom of Admiralty Gulf, about forty +miles south-west of Vansittart Bay (Narrative volume 1). Epidote +and quartz, in small crystals confusedly interlaced; apparently +from veins, or nests, but unaccompanied by any portion of the +adjacent rock. The structure in one of these specimens approaches +to the amygdaloidal. A compact greenish stone, with disseminated +crystalline spots of epidote, and of quartz, and apparently +consisting of an intimate mixture of those minerals, is also +among the specimens from Port Warrender.</p> +<p>All these specimens are from detached water-worn masses at the +foot of Crystal Head, on the south-west of the port. The summit +of the head is flat and tabular, and the rocks in the vicinity +are described by Captain King as consisting of siliceous +sandstone. Chalcedony, apparently from amygdaloid of the trap +formation, was also found at Port Warrender.</p> +<p>The epidote of this place is in general of a pale-greenish +colour, but is mixed with, and sometimes appears to pass into, +spots of a rich purplish-brown. The specimens resemble generally +the epidote of Dauphiny and Siberia; but Mr. Levy, who has been +so good as to examine them, informs me that the crystals exhibit +some modifications not described either by Hauy, or by Mr. +Haidinger in his paper on this mineral, and which are probably +peculiar to this locality.</p> +<p>WATER ISLAND, on the west side of CAPE VOLTAIRE, at the +south-west entrance of Port Warrender, is described (volume 1) as +consisting of quartzose sandstone; as is also KATER ISLAND, in +Montagu Sound. And the same rock appears to occur throughout the +islands on this part of the coast. (Narrative 1.)</p> +<p>MONTAGU SOUND, about five-and-twenty miles south-west of +ADMIRALTY GULF (Narrative 1). Greyish granular quartz; like that +of the Lickey Hill, in Worcestershire. Fine-grained quartzose +sandstone, of a purplish hue, resembling a rock on the banks of +the Severn, near Bridgenorth. Grey and reddish sandstone; +apparently composed of the debris of granite, and very nearly +resembling that of Simms Island above-mentioned.</p> +<p>HUNTER'S RIVER, falling into YORK SOUND, on the north-east +side. Somewhat coarse reddish-white sandstone; like that of the +coal formation, and some varieties of millstone grit. +Fine-grained, reddish-grey quartzose sandstone, having the +appearance of stratification, and resembling the rocks of +Cambridge Gulf.</p> +<p>ROE'S RIVER, at the eastern termination of York Sound +(Narrative 1) runs between precipitous banks of sandstone, in +nearly horizontal strata, which rise to the height of three +hundred feet.</p> +<p>CAREENING BAY, between York Sound and Prince Regent's River +(Narrative volume 1. See the plate volume 1). Crystalline +epidote, and whitish quartz, apparently from a vein. +Purplish-brown epidote, with small nests or concretions of green +epidote and quartz; forming a sort of amygdaloid. Conglomerate, +containing angular fragments of yellowish-grey quartz-rock, in a +base of compact epidote. A nearly uniform greenish compound of +epidote intimately mixed with quartz, also occurs at this place. +Flat lamellar chalcedony. Very fine-grained reddish-grey +quartzose sandstone, with traces of a slaty structure, resembling +that of York Sound, and Cambridge Gulf, was found in the +north-east end of this bay; and fine-grained greenstone, on the +summit of the adjacent hills.</p> +<p>Several of these specimens are almost identical with those of +Port Warrender; from which place Careening Bay is distant about +sixty miles.</p> +<p>BAT ISLAND (Narrative volume 1) western entrance of Careening +Bay. Quartz from thin veins, with particles of an adhering rock, +probably chlorite-slate. Quartz, containing disseminated +hematitic iron-ore and copper pyrites. Quartz crystals, with +chalcedony, from nodules in amygdaloid. Quartz with specular iron +ore. Greenstone, with chalcedony and copper pyrites. A decomposed +stone, probably consisting of wacke. The specimens of trap-rocks +from this place are from a cavern.</p> +<p>GREVILLE ISLAND, near the entrance of Prince Regent's River. +Reddish, coarsely granular, siliceous sandstone; in horizontal +strata, intersected by veins of crystallized quartz.*</p> +<blockquote>(*Footnote. Narrative volume 2.)</blockquote> +<p>HALF-WAY BAY, within Prince Regent's River on the west of the +entrance, near Greville Island. Hornblende rock ? nearly agreeing +with that of Pobassoo's Island, on the north-west of the Gulf of +Carpentaria (see above). Calcedony, apparently from nodules in +amygdaloid. Greenish quartz, approaching to heliotrope. Red, +somewhat slaty jasper, mixed with quartz and chalcedony, and +containing specular iron ore.</p> +<p>The specimens from this place much resemble some of those from +Sotto i Sassi, in the Val di Fassa in the Tyrol, which I have +seen in the collection of Mr. Herschel; and which consist of +reddish jasper with chalcedony, and a greenish flinty stone, like +heliotrope, the whole belonging to the trap-formation.</p> +<p>POINT CUNNINGHAM, east of south from Cape Leveque, and about +one hundred and fifty miles south-west of Prince Regent's River. +Very compact and fine-grained reddish granular quartz, with a +glistening lustre, and flat conchoidal fracture. This stone, +though so compact in the recent fracture, has distinct traces of +stratification on the decomposed surface, which is of a dull +reddish hue. Bright red ferruginous granular quartz (Eisen-kiesel +?) with a glistening lustre, and a somewhat porous texture. A +specimen of the soil of the hills at Cygnet Bay, consists of very +fine reddish-yellow quartzose sand. A large rounded pebble, +consisting of ferruginous granular quartz, of a dark +purplish-brown colour, and considerable density, was found here; +near a fireplace of the natives, by whom it is used for making +their hatchets; with a fragment of a calcareous incrustation, +like that of the west coast hereafter mentioned.</p> +<p>The next specimens in Captain King's collection--a space of +more than three hundred miles on this coast not having been +examined by him--are from MALUS ISLAND, in Dampier's Archipelago +(see Narrative volume 1) they consist of fine-grained greenstone, +and what appears to be a basaltic rock, of amygdaloidal +structure.</p> +<p>DIRK HARTOG'S ISLAND, west of Shark's Bay. A compound of +rather fine-grained translucent quartzose sand, cemented by +carbonate of lime, of various shades of reddish and yellowish +grey. This stone has in some places the structure of a breccia; +the angles of the imbedded fragments, which are from half an inch +to two inches in diameter, being very distinct--but in other +parts, the fracture exhibits the appearance of roundish nodules, +composed of concentric shells--or bags as it were, of calcareous +matter, which vary in colour, and are filled with a mixture of +the same substance and quartzose sand: and the spaces between +these nodules are likewise occupied by a similar compound.*</p> +<blockquote>(*Footnote. The following description given by the +French naturalists of the rocks at Bernier's Islands, was +probably taken from a large suite of specimens; and M. Peron +states (1 page 204) that it is strictly applicable to all the +adjacent parts of the continent, and of the islands that were +examined by the French voyagers: +<p>Le sable du rivage (de l'ile Bernier) est quartzeux, mele +d'une grande proportion de debris calcaires fortement attenues. +La substance de l'ile meme se compose, dans ses couches +inferieures, d'un gres calcaire coquillier, tantot blanchatre, +tantot rougeatre, depose par couches horizontales, dont +l'epaisseur varie de 2 a 8 decimetres (7 a 11 pouces) et qui +toutes etant tres uniformes dans leur prolongement, pourroient +offrir a la maconnerie des pierres de construction naturellement +taillees.</p> +<p>Les coquilles incrustees dans ces massifs des roches sont +presque toutes univalves; elles apartiennent plus +particulierement au genre Natice de M. de Lamarck, et ont les +plus grands rapports avec l'espece de Natice qui se trouve +vivante au pied de ces rochers. Elles sont sans doute petrifiees +depuis bien des siecles, car, outre qu'il est tres difficile de +les retirer intactes du milieu de ces gres, tant leur adhesion +avec eux est intime, on les observe encore a plus de 50 metres +(150 pieds) au dessus du niveau actuel de la mer.</p> +<p>Quelque regularite que ces bancs puissent affecter dans leur +disposition generale, ils ne sont cependant pas tous homogenes +dans leur substance; il est sur-tout une variete de ces roches +plus remarquable par sa structure. Ce sont des galets calcaires, +agreges dans une terre sablonneuse ocracee, qui leur est +tellement adherente, qu'on ne sauroit detruire cette espece de +gangue sans les briser eux memes. Tous ces galets affectent la +forme globlueuse, et se composent d'un grand nombre de zones +concentriques, qui se developpent autour d'un noyau central d'un +gres scintillant et brunatre. Ces diverses couches ont a peine +quelques millimitres d'epaisseur, et affectent des nuances +agreables, qui varient depuis le rouge-fonce jusqu'au +jaune-clair. La disposition generale de cette breche lui donne +donc quelques rapports grossiers avec le granit globuleux de +l'ile de Corse; et, par ses couches rubanees, concentriques, elle +a quelque chose de l'aspect des Agathes-Onyx...Les bancs de gres +divers dont je viens de parler, constituent, a bien dire, la +masse entiere du pays qui nous occupe, etc. (Volume 1 page 110. +See also Freycinet page 187.)</p> +</blockquote> +The cementing limestone in the rock of this island, is very like +some of the more compact portions of the stone of Guadaloupe, +which contains the human skeletons, the hardness and fracture +being nearly the same in both. The chief difference of these +rocks seems to arise from the nature of the cemented substances; +which, in the Guadaloupe stone, being themselves calcareous, are +incorporated, or melted as it were, into the cement, by +insensible gradation;* while the quartzose sand, in that of Dirk +Hartog's Island, is strongly contrasted with the calcareous +matter that surrounds it.** But, wherever the imbedded fragments +in the latter consist of limestone, their union with the cement +is complete. +<blockquote>(*Footnote. See Mr. Koenig's Paper. Philosophical +Transactions volume 104 1814 page 107 etc.)</blockquote> +<blockquote>(**Footnote. Captain King informs me that the +soundings in this part of the coast bring up a very fine +quartzose-sand like that cemented in the breccia.)</blockquote> +<p>ROTTNEST ISLAND, about four hundred and fifty miles south of +Dirk Hartog's Island. Indistinct specimens containing numerous +fragments of shells, in a calcareous cement; the substance of +these shells has at first sight the appearance of chalcedony, and +is harder than ordinary carbonate of lime.</p> +<p>The characters of the shells in Captain King's specimens from +this place are indistinct; but the specimens at the Jardin du +Roi, which, there is reason to suppose, have come from this part +of the coast, contain shells of several species, belonging among +others to the genera, corbula, chama, cardium, porcellanea, +turbo, cerithium. M. Prevost, to whom I am indebted for this +account, observes that notwithstanding the recent appearance of +the shells, the beds which contain them are stated to occur at a +considerable height above the sea: and he remarks that the aspect +of the rock is very like that of the shelly deposits of St. +Hospice, near Nice.</p> +<p>KING GEORGE'S SOUND, on the south coast, east of south from +Cape Leeuwin. Beautifully white and fine quartzose sand, from the +sea-beach. Yellowish grey granite, from Bald-head. Two varieties +of a calcareous rock, of the same nature with that of Dirk +Hartog's Island; consisting of particles of translucent quartzose +sand, united by a cement of yellowish or cream-coloured carbonate +of lime, which has a flat conchoidal and splintery fracture, and +is so hard as to yield with difficulty to the knife. In this +compound, there are not any distinct angular fragments, as in the +stone of Dirk Hartog's Islands; but the calcareous matter is very +unequally diffused.</p> +<p>A third form in which this recent calcareous matter appears, +is that of irregular, somewhat tortuous, stem-like bodies, with a +rugged sandy surface, and from half an inch to an inch in +diameter; the cross fracture of which shows that they are +composed of sand, cemented by carbonate of lime, either uniformly +mixed throughout, or forming a crust around calcareous matter of +a spongy texture; in which latter case they have some resemblance +to the trunks or roots of trees. A mass, which seems to have been +of this description, is stated to have come from a height of +about two hundred and fifty feet above the sea, at Bald-head, on +the South Coast of Australia. These specimens, however, do not +really exhibit any traces of organic structure; and so nearly +resemble the irregular stalactitical concretions produced by the +passage of calcareous or ferruginous solutions through sand* that +they are probably of the same origin; indeed the central cavity +of the stalactite still remains open in some of the specimens of +this kind from Sweer's Island in the Gulf of Carpentaria. The +specimens from Madeira, presented to the Geological Society by +Mr. Bowdich, and described in his notes on that island,** appear +upon examination to be of the same character. But there is no +reason to suppose that the trunks of trees, as well as other +foreign substances, may not be thus incrusted, since various +foreign bodies, even of artificial production, have been so +found. Professor Buckland has mentioned a specimen of concreted +limestone from St. Helena, which contains the recent shell of a +bird's egg;*** and M. Peron states that, in the concretional +limestone rock of the South Coast of New Holland, the trunks of +trees occur, with the vegetable structure so distinct as to leave +no doubt as to their nature.****</p> +<blockquote>(*Footnote. Tubular concretions of ferruginous +matter, irregularly ramifying through sand, like the roots of +trees, are described by Captain Lyon as occurring in Africa. +Lyon's Travels Appendix page 65.)</blockquote> +<blockquote>(**Footnote. Excursions in Madeira 1825 page 139, +140; and Bull. des Sciences Naturelles volume 4 page +322.)</blockquote> +<blockquote>(***Footnote. Geological Transactions volume 5 page +479.)</blockquote> +<blockquote>(****Footnote. Peron 2 page 75.)</blockquote> +<h3>INSTRUCTIONS FOR COLLECTING GEOLOGICAL SPECIMENS.</h3> +<p>It so often happens that specimens sent from distant places, +by persons unpractised in geology, fail to give the instruction +which is intended, from the want of attention to a few necessary +precautions, that the following directions may perhaps be useful +to some of those, into whose hands these pages are likely to +fall. It will be sufficient to premise, that two of the principal +objects of geological inquiry, are, to determine, first, the +nature of the MATERIALS of which the earth is composed; and, +secondly, the relative ORDER in which these materials are +disposed with respect to each other.</p> +<p>1. Specimens of rocks ought not, in general, to be taken from +loose pieces, but from large masses in their native place, or +which have recently fallen from their natural situation.</p> +<p>2. The specimens should consist of the stone unchanged by +exposure to the elements, which sometimes alter the characters to +a considerable distance from the surface. Petrifactions, however, +are often best distinguishable in masses somewhat decomposed; and +are thus even rendered visible, in many cases, where no trace of +any organized body can be discerned in the recent fracture.</p> +<p>3. The specimens ought not to be too small. A convenient size +is about three inches square, and about three-quarters of an +inch, or less, in thickness.</p> +<p>4. It seldom happens that large masses, even of the same kind +of rock, are uniform throughout any considerable space; so that +the general character is collected, by geologists who examine +rocks in their native places, from the average of an extensive +surface: a collection ought therefore to furnish specimens of the +most characteristic varieties; and THE MOST SPLENDID SPECIMENS +ARE, IN GENERAL, NOT THE MOST INSTRUCTIVE. Where several +specimens are taken in the same place, a series of numbers should +be added to the note of their locality.</p> +<p>5. One of the most advantageous situations for obtaining +specimens, and examining the relations of rocks, is in the +sections afforded by cliffs on the seashore; especially after +recent falls of large masses. It commonly happens that the beds +thus exposed are more or less inclined; and in this case, if any +of them be inaccessible at a particular point, the decline of the +strata will frequently enable the collector to supply himself +with the specimens he wishes for, within a short distance. Thus, +in Sketch 4, which may be supposed to represent a cliff of +considerable height, the observer being situated at a, the beds +b, c, d, though inaccessible at that place, may be examined with +ease and security, where they successively come down to the +shore, at b prime, c prime, and d prime.</p> +<center> +<p><a name="king2-13"></a><img alt="" src="images/king2-13.jpg"></p> +<p><b>SKETCH 4: CLIFF OF CONSIDERABLE HEIGHT, IN WHICH THE BEDS, +THOUGH INACCESSIBLE AT THE TOP, MAY BE EXAMINED WITH EASE AND +SECURITY, WHERE THEY COME DOWN TO THE SHORE.</b></p> +</center> +<p> </p> +<p>6. To examine the interior of an unknown country, more skill +and practice are required: the rocks being generally concealed by +the soil, accumulations of sand, gravel, etc., and by the +vegetation of the surface. But the strata are commonly disclosed +in the sides of ravines, in the beds of rivers and +mountain-streams; and these, especially where they cross the +direction of the strata, and be made, by careful examination, to +afford instructive sections.</p> +<p>7. Among the distinctive circumstances of the strata, the +remains of organized bodies, shells, corals, and other zoophytes, +the bones and teeth of animals, fossil wood, and the impressions +of vegetable stems, roots, or leaves, etc., are of the greatest +importance; affording generally the most marked characters of the +strata in which they occur. These should, therefore, be +particularly sought after, and their relative abundance or rarity +in different situations noticed. The petrified bodies should, if +possible, be kept united with portions of the rock or matrix in +which they are found; and where they are numerous, in sand, clay, +or any moist or friable matrix, it is in general better to retain +a large portion of the whole mass, to be examined afterwards, +than to attempt their separation at the time of collecting.</p> +<p>8. The loose materials which are found above the solid rocks, +in the form of gravel, silt, rolled pebbles, etc., should be +carefully distinguished from the solid strata upon which they +repose. And the more ancient of these loose materials, found on +the sides or summits of hills, etc., should be distinguished from +the recent mud, sand, and gravel, brought down by land-floods, or +rivers. The bones and teeth of animals are not unfrequently found +in gravel of the former description; and the collection of these +remains from distant quarters of the globe, is an object of the +greatest interest to geology.</p> +<p>9. Besides a note of the locality, there ought, if possible, +to accompany every specimen, a short notice of its geological +circumstances; as:</p> +<p>Whether it be found in large shapeless masses, or in +strata?</p> +<p>If in strata, what are the thickness, inclination to the +horizon, and direction with respect to the compass, of the beds? +[If these cannot be measured, an estimate should always be +recorded, while the objects are in view.] Are they uniform in dip +and direction? curved, or contorted? continuous, or interrupted +by fissures or veins?</p> +<p>Is the whole cliff, or mass of strata in sight, of uniform +composition? or does it consist of different kinds of stone?</p> +<p>If the strata be different, what is the order in which they +are placed above each other successively?</p> +<p>10. A label, distinctly written, should accompany every +specimen, stating its native place, its relative situation, etc., +etc. And these labels should be connected with the specimens +immediately, on the spot where they are found. This injunction +may appear to be superfluous; but so much valuable information +has been lost to geology from the neglect of it, that every +observer of experience will acknowledge its necessity; and it is, +perhaps, in practice one of the most difficult to adhere to.</p> +<p>11. A sketch of a coast or cliff, however slight, frequently +conveys more information respecting the disposition and relations +of rocks, than the longest memorandum. If numbers, denoting the +situation of the specimens collected, be marked upon such +sketches, much time may be saved at the moment of collecting. But +in all such cases, the memorandum should be looked over soon +afterwards, and labels distinctly explaining their situation, +etc., be attached to the specimens themselves.</p> +<p>12. The specimens should be so packed, that the surfaces may +be defended from exposure to air, moisture, and friction: for +which purpose, if strong paper cannot be obtained, dry moss, or +straw, or leaves, may be used with advantage. Where paper is used +for wrapping the specimens, they are best secured by fastening +the envelope with sealing-wax.</p> +<p>Lastly, The collector must not be discouraged, nor be +prevented from collecting, by finding that the place which he may +chance to visit in a remote situation, has not a striking +appearance, or the rocks within his view a very interesting +character; since it frequently, and even commonly, happens, that +facts and specimens, in themselves of very little importance, +become valuable by subsequent comparison; so that scarcely any +observation, if recorded with accuracy, will be thrown away.</p> +<hr align="center" width="20%"> +<p>The Instruments required by the geological traveller will +vary, according to the acquirements and specific objects of the +individual. The most essential are:</p> +<p>The Hammer (Sketch 5); which, for general purposes, may be of +the form here represented:</p> +<center> +<p><a name="king2-14"></a><img alt="" src="images/king2-14.jpg"></p> +<p><b>SKETCH 5: HAMMER FOR COLLECTING GEOLOGICAL +SPECIMENS.</b></p> +</center> +<p> </p> +<p>The head should be of steel well tempered, about 4 inches from +the face to the edge, and 1 1/4 inch square in the middle; the +face flat, and square, or nearly so; the edge placed in the +direction of the handle. The orifice for the insertion of the +handle oval, a very little wider on the outer side than within; +its diameters, about 1 inch vertically, and 0.7 across; the +centre somewhat more than 1 1/2 inch from the face. The handle +should be of ash, or other tough wood; not less than 16 inches +long; fitting tight into the head at its insertion, without a +shoulder; and increasing a little in size towards the end remote +from the head, to prevent its slipping. It should be fixed in the +head by means of a thin, barbed iron wedge.</p> +<p>For trimming specimens, smaller hammers may be employed +(Sketch 6): The form of the head, recommended for this purpose by +Dr. MacCulloch,* is rectangular. The dimensions of the face may +be 1 inch by 3/4; the height 2 1/4.</p> +<blockquote>(*Footnote. On the forms of Mineralogical Hammers, +Quarterly Journal Royal Institution volume 11 1821 page 1 +etc.)</blockquote> +<center> +<p><a name="king2-15"></a><img alt="" src="images/king2-15.jpg"></p> +<p><b>SKETCH 6: SMALL HAMMER FOR TRIMMING GEOLOGICAL +SPECIMENS.</b></p> +</center> +<p> </p> +<p>It will be expedient to have always some hammers, of different +sizes, in reserve.</p> +<p>A small miner's pick is useful for cutting out, and splitting +portions of slaty rocks; or for obtaining specimens of clays, +etc.</p> +<p>A small stone-cutter's chisel. A chisel with a handle, of the +form here represented, will often save the hand of an inexpert +collector, and better enable him to direct his blow.</p> +<center> +<p><a name="king2-16"></a><img alt="" src="images/king2-16.jpg"></p> +<p><b>SKETCH 7: SMALL STONE-CUTTER'S CHISEL.</b></p> +</center> +<p> </p> +<p>For packing the specimens. A stock of strong paper. +Sealing-wax. Writing-paper, cut into labels. Thick gum-water, to +cement the labels to the specimens.</p> +<p>For the Conveyance of specimens. A large bag of leather, with +straps for the shoulders. Strong canvas bags, of smaller size, +are very convenient for subdivision and arrangement. For the +protection of crystals, or delicate petrifactions, etc., wool or +cotton are necessary; and small wooden boxes (like those used for +holding wafers) are sometimes required. For distant carriage, +strong wooden boxes, casks, or baskets.</p> +<p>The following are either essential, or useful in various +degrees, for obtaining and recording observations.</p> +<p>Pocket Memorandum-Books, of sufficient size to admit +sketches.<br> +A Pocket Compass.<br> +A Measuring-Tape, of fifty feet, or more.<br> +A Telescope.<br> +A Camera Lucida.<br> +A Box of Colours.</p> +<p>The best maps should always be sought for: And, the true +economy to the traveller being that which saves time, it is best +to mark, or even colour the map, in the field. Notes inserted on +imperfect maps, or deduced afterwards from memoranda, are less +authentic; and the process is frequently neglected.</p> +<p>PORTABLE-BAROMETERS, with detached thermometers, are +desirable; and the best instruments are ultimately the cheapest. +But, unfortunately, barometers of every construction are very +easily damaged or deranged. The accurate determination of +heights, however, though very interesting to physical geography, +is comparatively of little importance to the geologist.</p> +<p>If the collector be a surveyor, he will know best to what +purpose a Pocket Sextant, or small Theodolite, is applicable: the +measurement of distances, of heights, and of the inclination of +strata, etc.</p> +<hr align="center" width="20%"> +<h3>CONTENTS OF APPENDIX C.</h3> +<p>GENERAL SKETCH OF THE COAST.</p> +<p>GEOLOGICAL REMARKS.<br> +1. List of Rocks.<br> +2. Rocks identical with those of Europe.<br> +3. Aspect of the Shores.<br> +4. Information wanting respecting Diluvial deposits: no Specimens +of Limestone: no Volcanoes.<br> +5. Recent calcareous breccia.<br> +6. Range of the Coastlines.</p> +<p>DETAILED LIST OF SPECIMENS.</p> +<p>INSTRUCTIONS FOR COLLECTING GEOLOGICAL SPECIMENS.</p> +<hr align="center" width="20%"> +<p><a name="appendixD"></a></p> +<h3>APPENDIX D.</h3> +<p align="center">COMPARATIVE TABLE OF THE LANGUAGES OF THE +NATIVES, WITH SOME GENERAL REMARKS.</p> +<p><b>COLUMN 1: ENGLISH WORD.<br> +COLUMN 2: CALEDON BAY, GULF OF CARPENTARIA. FROM CAPTAIN +FLINDERS.<br> +COLUMN 3: ENDEAVOUR RIVER, NORTH-EAST COAST. PARTLY FROM CAPTAIN +COOK AND MR. FORSTER.<br> +COLUMN 4: KING GEORGE THE THIRD'S SOUND, SOUTH-WEST COAST.<br> +COLUMN 5: PORT JACKSON.<br> +COLUMN 6: BURRAH BURRAH TRIBE. FROM MR. SCOTT.<br> +COLUMN 7: LIMESTONE CREEK. FROM MR. OXLEY.<br> +COLUMN 8: PORT MACQUARIE. FROM MR. HUNTER.<br> +COLUMN 9: MACQUARIE HARBOUR, VAN DIEMEN'S LAND.</b></p> +<p>Eye : Ma-il : Me-ul : Me-al : Mi, or Me, Mego : Miki-laja : +Milla : Me'-e : Nam'-mur-uck.</p> +<p>Nose : Ur-ro, or Hurro : Emer-da, or Poteer, Bon-joo (Cook) : +Tarmul, Moil (Flinders) : Nogro : - : Mor-ro : Na'-ag : +Me-oun.</p> +<p>Lips : Ta-a : Yem-be (Cook) : Tar : Willing : - : - : - : +-.</p> +<p>Teeth : Lir-ra : Mol-ear : Orlock : Era, or Da-ra : Yerrah : +Er-ra : Te'-lah : Kouk.</p> +<p>Tongue : Mat-ta : Unjar : Darlin, or Thalil : Tal-lang : - : - +: Mal'-way : Mim.</p> +<p>Cheeks : Tac-cal : - : Ny-a-luck : Yarrin : - : - : - : -.</p> +<p>Chin : Na-ing : - : - : Wal-lo : - : - : - : -.</p> +<p>Ears : Pon-doo-roo, or Po-door-roo : Mil-kah, Melea (Cook) : +Duong : Co-roo, Goray, or Benne : Binning-huiy : Wha-da :Mo'-ko : +Goun-reek.</p> +<p>Hair of the head : Marra : Morye : Ka-at : Kewarra, Dewarra, +or Gewarroo : Mundar : Bulla-ye-ga : Wo'l-lack : Pipe, or +Bipipe.</p> +<p>Neck : Mo-i-ang : Doom-boo, Forster : - : Ganga, Cadlear, or +Cadleang : - : Oro- : - : Treek, or Lan-gar-ree.</p> +<p>Breast : Gum-mur : Coy-or (Forster) : - : Nabung : - : Be-ning +: Nam-bang : -.</p> +<p>Belly : Goor-ro : Melmal (Forster) : Cop-bull, or Kopul : +Barrong, or Bende : Binda : Bur-bing : War'rah : -.</p> +<p>Arm : Wan-na, or War-na : Aco, or Acol : Wor-nuck : Tarrang : +- : Bar-gar : Co-pah : Yir-ra-wig.</p> +<p>Hand : Gong : - : - : Tam-mir-ra : Morrewalla : - : - : -.</p> +<p>Fingers : Mingel : Mun-gal-bah : Mai (singular), Maih (plural) +: Ber-ril-le : Maranga : Nar-ra : Mah-tra : War-ra-nook.</p> +<p>Elbow : Le-kal, or Le-kan : Ye-er-we : - : O-nur : - : - : - : +Nam-me-rick.</p> +<p>Posteriors : Lam-me : Booca (Forster) : Wa'l-la-kah : Bo-ong, +or Bayley : - : - : - : -.</p> +<p>Leg : Bacca : Peegoorga (Forster) : - : Dar-ra : - : - : +Woo'lo-loo : -.</p> +<p>Foot : Locko, or Nocka : Edamal (feet) : Ja-an, or Bangul : +Manoe : Janna : Dhee-nany : - : -.</p> +<p>Toe : Mangel-locko : Eb-e-rah : Kea (singular) Kean (plural) : +- : - : - : Teel-nah : Pe-une.</p> +<p>Sun : Laran-gai, or Car-ran-ghie : Gallan (Forster) : Djaat : +Goona, Coing, or Con-do-in : Bun-nail, or Mo-mat : - : Too-nigh, +or Win-gin : -.</p> +<p>Water : Lucka, or Lucko : Poorai (Forster) : - : Ba-doo : +Ajung- : - : Bah-do : -.</p> +<p>Stone : Punda : Wal-bah : - : Keba : Wy-juck : - : - : -.</p> +<p>Kangaroo : Loi-tyo : Men-u-ah, Kan-goo-roo (Cook) : Beango : +Tungo, Patagorang, Bag-gar-ray, Wal-li-bah, Wal-lar-roo, Bou-rou, +Barro-melon, Betong, Wy-rung, Pademalion : - : - : Womboy, +Pool-cot (tame), Mah-koke (the Pademalion of Port Jackson) : +Raguar.</p> +<p>Throwing-stick : Kail lepo : Melpairo, or Melpier (Forster) : +Me-a-ra : Wo-me-rah : - : - : - : -.</p> +<p>Nipples (of a man) : - : Coy-o-ber-rah, Cayo (Cook) : Be-ep : +Mou-tral : - : - : - : Nerrinook.</p> +<p>Dog : - : Cotta, or Kota : Tiara : Teingo, Dingo, Worregal : +Med-di-gen, War-ri-gal : - : - : -.</p> +<p>Nails : - : Kolke : Pera : Currungal, or Car-rung-un : - : - : +- : -.</p> +<p>Beard : - : Wol-lar : Nyanuck : Chinis, or Wallo : - : Anany : +- : Ru-ing.</p> +<p>Mouth : - : - : Tatah : Karga : - : Chuang : Wel'-leck : +-.</p> +<p>Fire : - : - : - : Gwee-yong, or Too-yong : Canby : Warrenur : +Cor-yal : Lope.</p> +<p>Membrum virile : - : - : Yaw-de-wit : - : - : - : Cool-kah : +Lune.</p> +<p>Head : - : Wageegee (Forster) : - : Cob-bra : Ulangar, or +Nattang : Cah-brah : - : -.</p> +<p>The preceding brief collection, of words used by the natives +in various parts of the Coasts of Australia and Van Diemen's +Land, has been inserted to show the great dissimilarity that +exists in the languages of the several tribes: and it may be +remarked, that of thirty-three objects, one only, the Eye, is +expressed by nearly the same term at each place. In this list, it +is true, there is a striking resemblance between the terms used +to signify the hair at Port Jackson, namely, dewarra, or kewarra, +or gewarroo, and those which denote the same thing in the +language of some of the islands of the Eastern Seas; such, for +instance, as arouroo or hooroo-hooroo of the Society Islands; +lo-ooroo of the Friendly Islands; hooroo of New Zealand; and, +perhaps, oouho of the Marquesas:* but at New Caledonia, which is +situated between these places and Port Jackson, the same thing is +expressed by poon, a sound totally distinct. And to render the +anomaly still more decisive, it is only necessary to remark, +that, within two hundred miles of Port Jackson, the natives of +three tribes, Port Macquarie. Burrah-Burrah, and Limestone Creek, +signify the hair, by the words wollack, mundar, and +bulla-ye-ga.</p> +<blockquote>(*Footnote. Forster Observations page +283.)</blockquote> +<p>The aboriginal connexion of Australia with other lands must be +proved, as far as language is concerned, by a general resemblance +of the words, and not merely by a few examples of coincidence, +which can only be considered as accidental: and as our knowledge +of the Australian languages, except in the vicinity of Port +Jackson, does not yet exceed thirty or forty words, no +comparison, derived from such limited information, can be +employed with any certainty to determine the question. The +connexion must be sought for, probably, where the continent, at +its north-eastern extremity, most nearly approaches other lands; +but even then the chain will remain imperfect until New Guinea +and its neighbouring islands are explored, and correct and +extensive vocabularies of their languages obtained. Forster,* who +has paid considerable attention to this subject, and whose +opinions are the more valuable from their being the result of +personal observation, seems to be convinced that the New +Hollanders are not an original race, but have derived their +origin from New Guinea. It is therefore to be hoped, that this +subject will not be forgotten by our trans-Atlantic and +Australian colonists; more particularly by those of the new +settlement on the north coast at Melville Island, who, from their +vicinity to New Guinea, have the best opportunities of throwing +light upon the question.</p> +<blockquote>(*Footnote. Ibid.)</blockquote> +<hr align="center" width="20%"> +<h4>SITUATIONS OF THE PLACES MENTIONED IN THE PRECEDING LIST WITH +RESPECT TO PORT JACKSON.</h4> +<p>King George the Third's Sound is on the South-west Coast, 1660 +miles from Port Jackson.</p> +<p>Caledon Bay is near the north-west extremity of the Gulf of +Carpentaria, 1500 miles from Port Jackson.</p> +<p>Endeavour River, in latitude about 15 degrees South, is on the +North-east Coast, about 1180 miles from Port Jackson.</p> +<p>Burrah-Burrah, about 90 miles in the interior, west of Port +Jackson.</p> +<p>Limestone Creek, about 140 miles in the interior, west of Port +Jackson.</p> +<p>Port Macquarie, on the East Coast, 168 miles north of Port +Jackson.</p> +<p>Macquarie Harbour, on the West Coast of Van Diemen's Land.</p> +<p>Bruny Island, at the south-east extremity of Van Diemen's +Land.</p> +<p>END OF VOLUME 2.</p> +<center> +<p><a name="king2-17"></a><img alt="" src="images/king2-17.jpg"></p> +<p><b>TABLE A.<br> +Chlamydosaurus kingii.<br> +The plate was engraved by Mr. Curtis, from an exceedingly correct +drawing made by Henry C. Field, Esquire. Fel. Coll. Surg.<br> +Published by John Murray, Albemarle Street, March, 1826.</b></p> +</center> +<p> </p> +<center> +<p><a name="king2-18"></a><img alt="" src="images/king2-18.jpg"></p> +<p><b>TABLE B.<br> +Carpophagus banksiae.<br> +Megamerus kingii.<br> +Phasma tiaratum.<br> +Drawn by Miss M.L. Field. J. Curtis sculp.<br> +Published by John Murray, Albemarle Street, March, 1826.</b></p> +</center> +<p> </p> +<center> +<p><a name="king2-19"></a><img alt="" src="images/king2-19.jpg"></p> +<p><b>TABLE C.<br> +Kingia Australis.<br> +Curtis, Id et sculp.<br> +Published by John Murray, Albemarle Street.</b></p> +</center> + + + + + + + + +<pre> + + + + + +End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Narrative of a Survey of the +Intertropical and Western Coasts of Australia] [Volume 2 of 2], by Phillip Parker King + +*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK SURVEY OF THE COASTS OF AUSTRALIA, V2 *** + +***** This file should be named 12046-h.htm or 12046-h.zip ***** +This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: + https://www.gutenberg.org/1/2/0/4/12046/ + +Produced by Sue Asscher + +Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions +will be renamed. + +Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no +one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation +(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without +permission and without paying copyright royalties. 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--- /dev/null +++ b/old/12046.txt @@ -0,0 +1,18728 @@ +The Project Gutenberg EBook of Narrative of a Survey of the Intertropical +and Western Coasts of Australia] [Volume 2 of 2], by Phillip Parker King + +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with +almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + +Title: Narrative of a Survey of the Intertropical and Western Coasts of Australia] [Volume 2 of 2] + Performed between the years 1818 and 1822 + +Author: Phillip Parker King + +Release Date: April 15, 2004 [EBook #12046] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ASCII + +*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK SURVEY OF THE COASTS OF AUSTRALIA, V2 *** + + + + +Produced by Sue Asscher + + + + +PROJECT GUTENBERG ETEXT OF SURVEY OF THE INTERTROPICAL COASTS +OF AUSTRALIA BY P.P. KING VOLUME 2. + + +NARRATIVE OF A SURVEY + +OF THE + +INTERTROPICAL AND WESTERN + +COASTS OF AUSTRALIA. + +PERFORMED BETWEEN + +THE YEARS 1818 AND 1822. + +BY + +CAPTAIN PHILLIP P. KING, R.N., F.R.S., F.L.S., + +AND MEMBER OF THE ROYAL ASIATIC SOCIETY OF LONDON. + +WITH +AN APPENDIX, +CONTAINING +VARIOUS SUBJECTS RELATING TO HYDROGRAPHY AND NATURAL HISTORY. + + +IN TWO VOLUMES, +ILLUSTRATED BY PLATES, CHARTS, AND WOOD-CUTS. + +VOLUME 2. + +LONDON: +JOHN MURRAY, ALBEMARLE STREET. + + + + + +CONTENTS. + + +VOLUME 2. + + +CHAPTER 1. +Survey upon the mermaid. +Purchase another vessel. +New establishment. +Departure on the fourth voyage, accompanied by a merchant-ship + bound through Torres Strait. +Discovery of an addition to the crew. +Pass round Breaksea Spit, and steer up the East Coast. +Transactions at Percy Island. +Enormous sting-rays. +Pine-trees serviceable for masts. +Joined by a merchant brig. +Anchor under Cape Grafton, Hope Islands, and Lizard Island. +Natives at Lizard Island. +Cape Flinders. +Visit the Frederick's wreck. +Surprised by natives. +Mr. Cunningham's description of the drawings of the natives in + a cavern on Clack's Island. +Anchor in Margaret Bay, and under Cairncross Island. +Accident, and loss of anchors. +Pass through Torres Strait, and visit Goulburn Island. +Affair with the natives. +The Dick parts company. + + +CHAPTER 2. +Passage from Cape Van Diemen to Careening Bay. +Not finding water, visit Prince Regent's River, and procure it + from the Cascade. +Farther examination of the river. +Amphibious mud-fish. +Anchor in Halfway Bay, and explore Munster Water and Hanover Bay + in a boat. +Visit Hanover Bay, and procure water and fish. +Interview with natives. +The surgeon speared. +Retaliate upon them, and capture their rafts and weapons. +Description of their implements. +Port George the Fourth. +Islands to the westward. +Red Island of Captain Heywood. +Strong tides. +Camden Bay. +Buccaneer's Archipelago. +Cygnet Bay. +Dangerous situation of the brig. +High and rapid tides. +Cape Leveque. +Examination of the coast to Cape Latouche Treville. +Remarkable effect of mirage. +Leave the coast for Mauritius. +Voyage thither. +Arrival at Port Louis. +Refit. +Some account of the island. + + +CHAPTER 3. +Departure from Port Louis. +Voyage to the South-west Coast of New Holland. +Anchor in King George the Third's Sound. +Occurrences there. +Visited by the Natives. +Our intercourse with them. +Descriptions of their weapons and other implements. +Vocabulary of their language. +Meteorological and other observations. +Edible plants. +Testaceous productions. + + +CHAPTER 4. +Leave King George the Third's Sound, and commence the survey of + the West Coast at Rottnest Island. +Another remarkable effect of mirage. +Anchor under, and land upon Rottnest Island. +Break an anchor. +Examine the coast to the northward. +Cape Leschenault. +Lancelin Island. +Jurien Bay. +Houtman's Abrolhos. +Moresby's Flat-topped Range. +Red Point. +Anchor in Dirk Hartog's Road, at the entrance of Shark's Bay. +Occurrences there. +Examination of the coast to the North-west Cape. +Barrow Island. +Heavy gale off the Montebello Isles. +Rowley's Shoals. +Cape Leveque. +Dangerous situation of the brig among the islands of Buccaneer's + Archipelago. +Examination and description of Cygnet Bay. +Lose an anchor, and leave the coast. +Adele Island. +Return to Port Jackson. + + +CHAPTER 5. +The Bathurst sails for England. +Remarks upon some errors in the hydrography of the south coast + of Van Diemen's Land. +King George the Third's Sound. +Passage to the Cape of Good Hope. +Cross the Atlantic, and arrive at Plymouth Sound. +Observations upon the voyages, and conclusion. + + +APPENDIX A. + + +SECTION 1. + +Of the winds and currents, and description of the ports, islands, + and coast between Port Jackson and Breaksea Spit. + + +SECTION 2. + +Description of the winds and weather, and of the ports, islands, + and coast between Breaksea Spit and Cape York. + + +SECTION 3. + +Description of the winds and weather, and of the ports and coast + between Wessel's Islands and Clarence Strait. + + +SECTION 4. + +Of the nature of the winds and the description of the coast between + Clarence Strait and the North-west Cape. + + +SECTION 5. + +Of the winds and weather, and description of the Western Coast + between the North-west Cape and Cape Leeuwin. + + +SECTION 6. + +Of the winds and weather upon the South Coast. Directions for + King George the Third's Sound, and hydrographical remarks + relating to Bass Strait. + + +SECTION 7. + +Description of the shoals and reefs in the neighbourhood of the + coasts of Australia. + + +SECTION 8. + +Directions for the passage within the reefs through Torres Strait. + + +SECTION 9. + +Dip of the magnetic needle. + + +SECTION 10. + +Upon the geographical positions of the fixed points of the survey. + + +APPENDIX B. + +Containing a list and description of the subjects of natural history + collected during Captain King's survey of the Intertropical + and Western Coasts of Australia. + + +APPENDIX C. + +Geology. + + +APPENDIX D. + +Language of the Natives. + + +LIST OF PLATES. + + +VOLUME 2. + + +ENTRANCE OF OYSTER HARBOUR, KING GEORGE THE THIRD'S SOUND. +Interview with the Natives. +From a sketch by P.P. King. Published in May 1825 by John Murray, + London. + +WOODCUT 1: NATIVES OF HANOVER BAY ON A RAFT. + +VIEW OF THE CASCADE IN PRINCE REGENT'S RIVER. +From a sketch by P.P. King. Published in May 1825 by John Murray, + London. + +WEAPONS ETC. OF THE NATIVES OF HANOVER BAY. + +1. Stone Spear Head (Full size.) From a Drawing by F. Chantrey, + Esquire, F.R.S. + +2. Section of a Stone Spear Head (Full size.) From a Drawing by + F. Chantrey, Esquire, F.R.S. + +3. Spear armed with the Stone head. + +4. Throwing-stick. + +5. Hatchet. + +Published in May 1825 by John Murray, London. + +WOODCUT 2: RAFT OF THE NATIVES OF HANOVER BAY. + +WOODCUT 3: WEAPONS AND IMPLEMENTS OF THE NATIVES OF KING GEORGE + THE THIRD'S SOUND: MEARA OR THROWING-STICK. + +WOODCUT 4: WEAPONS AND IMPLEMENTS OF THE NATIVES OF KING GEORGE + THE THIRD'S SOUND: METHOD OF PROPULSION OF SPEAR BY A MEARA + OR THROWING-STICK. + +WOODCUT 5: WEAPONS AND IMPLEMENTS OF THE NATIVES OF KING GEORGE + THE THIRD'S SOUND: KAOIT OR HAMMER. + +WOODCUT 6: WEAPONS AND IMPLEMENTS OF THE NATIVES OF KING GEORGE + THE THIRD'S SOUND: TAAP OR KNIFE. + +CHART OF PORT COCKBURN AT MELVILLE ISLAND. +Plan of Port Cockburn, between Bathurst and Melville Islands. +From a survey made by Lieutenant J.S. ROE in October 1824. + +VIEW OF FORT DUNDAS, TAKEN FROM GARDEN POINT. + +PLAN OF KING'S COVE. + +SKETCH 1: ISLANDS OFF ADMIRALTY GULF, LOOKING SOUTHWARD FROM THE + NORTH-EAST END OF CASSINI ISLAND. +Left to right: Corneille, Fenelon, Descartes, and Pascal Islands, + Hills on Cape Voltaire, Condillac Island, and East end of + Cassini Island (Peron's Atlas, plate 6, figure 7) and the + outline of the Iles Forbin (Peron's Atlas, plate 8, figure 5). + +SKETCH 2: ISLANDS OFF ADMIRALTY GULF, LOOKING SOUTHWARD FROM THE + NORTH-EAST END OF CASSINI ISLAND. +Left to right: Peak upon Cape Voltaire and Condillac Island, + bearing South, two miles distant. +Several drawings of Captain King. + +SKETCH 3: TWO CONSPICUOUS HILLS NORTH-EAST OF PRINCE-REGENT'S RIVER. +Left to right: Mount Trafalgar and Mount Waterloo. + +MAP OF THE CHAINS OF ISLANDS ON THE NORTH-WEST COAST OF CARPENTARIA: +In English Miles. +A. Castlereagh Bay. +B. Point Dale. +C. Arnhem Bay. +D. Melville Bay. +E. Cape Arnhem. +F. Caledon Bay. +1, 1 etc. Wessel's Islands. +2, 2 etc. The English Company's Islands. +3. Red Cliffs. +4. Mallison's Island. +5. Cape Newbold. +6. Cape Wilberforce. +7. Bromby's Islands. + +SKETCH 4: CLIFF OF CONSIDERABLE HEIGHT, IN WHICH THE BEDS, THOUGH + INACCESSIBLE AT THE TOP, MAY BE EXAMINED WITH EASE AND SECURITY, + WHERE THEY COME DOWN TO THE SHORE. + +SKETCH 5: HAMMER FOR COLLECTING GEOLOGICAL SPECIMENS. + +SKETCH 6: SMALL HAMMER FOR TRIMMING GEOLOGICAL SPECIMENS. + +SKETCH 7: SMALL STONE-CUTTER'S CHISEL. + +PLATES AT THE END OF THE VOLUME, REFERRED TO IN THE APPENDIX. + +TABLE A. +Chlamydosaurus kingii. +The plate was engraved by Mr. Curtis, from an exceedingly correct + drawing made by Henry C. Field, Esquire. Fel. Coll. Surg. +Published by John Murray, Albemarle Street, March, 1826. + +TABLE B. +Carpophagus banksiae. +Megamerus kingii. +Phasma tiaratum. +Drawn by Miss M.L. Field. J. Curtis sculp. +Published by John Murray, Albemarle Street, March, 1826. + +TABLE C. +Kingia Australis. +Curtis, Id et sculp. +Published by John Murray, Albemarle Street. + +... + + + +VOYAGES FOR THE SURVEY OF THE INTERTROPICAL COASTS OF AUSTRALIA. + + +CHAPTER 1. +Survey upon the mermaid. +Purchase another vessel. +New establishment. +Departure on the fourth voyage, accompanied by a merchant-ship + bound through Torres Strait. +Discovery of an addition to the crew. +Pass round Breaksea Spit, and steer up the East Coast. +Transactions at Percy Island. +Enormous sting-rays. +Pine-trees serviceable for masts. +Joined by a merchant brig. +Anchor under Cape Grafton, Hope Islands, and Lizard Island. +Natives at Lizard Island. +Cape Flinders. +Visit the Frederick's wreck. +Surprised by natives. +Mr. Cunningham's description of the drawings of the natives in a + cavern on Clack's Island. +Anchor in Margaret Bay, and under Cairncross Island. +Accident, and loss of anchors. +Pass through Torres Strait, and visit Goulburn Island. +Affair with the natives. +The Dick parts company. + +1820. December 6. + +As soon as the opportunity offered after our arrival, the cutter was laid +on shore upon the beach of Sydney Cove, and surveyed by the master and +the carpenter of H.M. Store-Ship Dromedary, which ship was preparing for +her return to England with a cargo of New Zealand spars. Upon stripping +the copper off the bottom, the tide flowed into her, and proved that to +the copper sheathing alone we were indebted for our safe return. The iron +spikes that fastened her were entirely decayed, and a considerable repair +was recommended by the surveying officers. Upon my communicating the +result of their report to His Excellency, Governor Macquarie, he agreed +with me in thinking that, as her repairs would take up so much time, it +would be better to purchase another vessel, and as a brig was then in the +harbour, that appeared to be every way suited for my purpose, she was +examined by my order by Mr. Mart, the Dromedary's carpenter, who reported +so favourably of her, that, by the governor's permission, she was +purchased and fitted for the voyage. She was built of teak, of one +hundred and seventy tons burden, and had lately received a very +considerable repair at Calcutta; so that, excepting a few trifling +defects and alterations, she was quite fit for sea. Her name was altered +at the suggestion of Governor Macquarie to that of the Bathurst. + +By this change we gained a great addition to our comforts; and, besides +increasing the number of our crew, were much better off in regard to +boats; for we now possessed a long-boat, large enough to carry out and +weigh an anchor, or save the crew if any accident should happen to the +vessel; a resource which we did not possess in the Mermaid. + +A further addition was made to our party by the appointment of Mr. +Perceval Baskerville, one of the Dromedary's midshipman; but Mr. Hunter +the surgeon, who had volunteered his services in the Mermaid during the +last voyage, was superseded by Mr. A. Montgomery, who had lately arrived +in charge of a convict ship. + +Our establishment now consisted of the following officers and men: + +Lieutenant and Commander: Phillip Parker King. + +Surgeon: Andrew Montgomery. + +Master's Mates (Assistant Surveyors): +Frederick Bedwell. +John S. Roe. + +Midshipman: Perceval Baskerville. + +Botanical Collector: Allan Cunningham. + +Steward. + +Boatswain's Mate. + +Carpenter's Mate. + +Sail Maker. + +Cook. + +Seamen: 16. + +Boys: 5. + +Total: 32. + +1821. May 26. + +After experiencing many tedious and unexpected delays in equipping the +Bathurst, notwithstanding our wants were few, and the greater part of our +repairs were effected by our own people, we were not completed for sea +until the 26th of May, when we sailed from Port Jackson upon our fourth +and last voyage to the north coast, accompanied by the merchant-ship Dick +(the same vessel in which we had originally embarked from England): she +was bound to Batavia, and being ready for sailing at the time of our +departure, requested permission to accompany us through Torres Strait, +which, since it would rather prove an assistance to us than cause any +delay in our proceedings, was acceded to on my part with much +satisfaction. In the mean time the Mermaid, our late vessel, had been +thoroughly repaired, fresh fastened with copper spikes, and fitted out; +and, before we sailed, had been sent to sea to carry the first +establishment to Port Macquarie, on which service she had been wrecked. +She was, however, afterwards got off the rocks and repaired, and is now a +very serviceable vessel in the colony. + +Boongaree, the native who had formerly accompanied us, volunteered his +services whilst the vessel was preparing for the voyage, which I gladly +accepted; but when the day of departure drew nigh, he kept aloof; and the +morning that we sailed, his place was filled by another volunteer, +Bundell; who proved not only to be a more active seaman, but was of much +greater service to us, than his countryman Boongaree had been. This +addition made our number thirty-three. + +May 30. + +Three days after we left the port, a discovery was made of another +addition to the number of the crew. Upon opening the hold, which had been +locked ever since the day before we sailed, a young girl, not more than +fourteen years of age, was found concealed among the casks, where she had +secreted herself in order to accompany the boatswain to sea: upon being +brought on deck, she was in a most pitiable plight, for her dress and +appearance were so filthy, from four days' close confinement in a dark +hold, and from having been dreadfully seasick the whole time, that her +acquaintances, of which she had many on board, could scarcely recognise +her. Upon being interrogated, she declared she had, unknown to all on +board, concealed herself in the hold the day before the vessel sailed; +and that her swain knew nothing of the step she had taken. As it was now +inconvenient to return to put her on shore, and as the man consented to +share his ration with her, she was allowed to remain; but in a very short +time heartily repented of her imprudence, and would gladly have been +re-landed, had it been possible. + +1821. June 4. + +Between the 30th and the 4th of June we had a series of gales of wind, +which enabled us to prove the capabilities of our new ship; and it was +very satisfactory to find that she was weatherly, tight, and dry, three +very essential qualities for a surveying vessel. + +June 5. + +On the afternoon of the 5th we passed round the north end of Breaksea +Spit, and crossed Hervey's Bay; in the night, when the brig ought to have +been many miles from the shore, we found ourselves unexpectedly close to +some land; but it was not until the day broke that we knew the full +extent of the danger we had encountered: the land we had seen proved to +be the round head of Bustard Bay, which, as the wind was blowing directly +upon it, we were fortunate in having room to clear. The Dick was apprized +by us of the danger in time, and succeeded in clearing the land by +tacking to the southward. + +June 6. + +At noon we were passing the small woody isle that was seen by Captain +Flinders, and farther on we discovered two other isles of a similar +character: they were seen from the masthead to the north-east; and a +fourth was seen by the Dick. After this we had a few days of fine +weather, which, as dysentery had already made its appearance amongst us, +was most welcome, and tended materially to check the progress of so +alarming a complaint. + +June 8. + +On the 8th we entered among the Northumberland Islands. + +June 10. + +But, from light northerly winds, did not reach an anchorage under Percy +Island, Number 2, until the morning of the 10th. Our situation was +between the Pine Islets and the basin, in ten fathoms, near a run of +water, which fell from the rocks into the sea at about a quarter of a +mile to the northward of the sandy beach: from this stream we filled our +casks. Water was also found in many other parts, but all the runs +appeared to be of temporary duration. + +June 11. + +This island, like Number 1, which we visited in 1819, appears to be +principally of quartzose formation. The soil is sandy, and affords but +little nourishment to the stunted trees with which it is furnished. In +the more barren and rocky parts the pine was abundant, but not growing to +any great size: the Dick's people cut down and embarked several logs; on +examination they were thought to be useless; but, from subsequent +experience, they proved to be far from deserving such contempt, for +during the voyage we made two pole-top gallant-masts of it; which, +although very full of knots, were as tough as any spar I ever saw; and +carried a press of sail longer than would be trusted on many masts. These +trees are very abundant on the Cumberland and Northumberland Islands, but +do not attain any large size; being seldom higher than fifty or sixty +feet, or of a greater diameter than from twelve to eighteen inches. + +Among the variety of birds, several black cockatoos and the pheasant +cuckoo were seen. The beaches were frequented by gulls, terns, and +oyster-catchers; and an egret was noticed of a slate-coloured plumage, +with a small ruff upon its head. + +The seine was hauled upon the beach; but the only fish caught were two +very large sting-rays; one of which measured twelve feet across: as it +was too unwieldy to take on board, we had no means of weighing it; but +the liver nearly filled a small pork barrel.* It is very probable that +our bad success may be attributed to the presence of these fish, for on +board the Dick several snappers were caught with the hook and line. + +(*Footnote. Captain Cook describes some fish, probably of the same +species, found at Botany Bay, weighing each three hundred and thirty-six +pounds (Hawkesworth volume 3 page 100); from which circumstance, as it is +not generally known, the name of Sting-ray Bay was given to that harbour; +it is so-called in the charts of the Endeavour's voyage, in the +Hydrographical Office at the Admiralty, as well as in Sir Joseph Banks' +copy of the Endeavour's journal, and in Dr. Solander's manuscript +journal, both of which are in the possession of my friend Robert Brown, +Esquire. The name by which it is now known appears to have been given +subsequently, on account of the variety and beauty of its botanical +productions.) + +In the evening the wind set in from South by East, with rain, and cloudy, +thick weather: in striking the royal masts, a serious defect was +discovered in our fore-top-mast; the upper part being found rotten for +twelve feet below the head; and the top-gallant-mast was also found to be +sprung in the wake of the cap. + +June 12. + +So that we were compelled to remain all the next day at the anchorage to +shift them. This detention was very vexatious, for we were not only +losing a fair wind, but lying in a very exposed situation. + +During the preceding night a brig anchored half a mile to the southward +of us: she proved to be the San Antonio; she left Port Jackson four days +after us, and was bound on a trading speculation to the Moluccas and +Singapore. In the forenoon I visited the master, Mr. Hemmans, and offered +him my guidance up the coast, if he would wait until we had shifted our +defective masts; but he declined it as he was anxious to get on without +delay; and, having Captain Flinders' charts, intended to run "DAY AND +NIGHT THROUGH THE REEFS;" he told me that he had anchored here with the +intention of watering and cutting some pine spars, but that not finding +the latter worth the trouble, he was then getting underweigh to proceed. +When I went away, he accompanied me to look over my plan of the passage; +after which he returned to his vessel, which soon afterwards steered past +us on her way to the northward. Mr. Hemmans told me that he had anchored +under Keppel Islands, where he had a friendly communication with the +natives, who used nets, which he thought were of European construction; +but from his description, they are similar to what have been before seen +on the coast, and are constructed by the natives themselves. + +June 13. + +At eight o'clock the next morning we got underweigh; but the Dick in +weighing her anchor found both flukes broken off. + +June 14. + +The next day, we rounded the north extremity of the Cumberland Islands. + +June 15. + +And at four o'clock a.m. the 15th, were abreast of Cape Gloucester. + +Thick cloudy weather with rain and a fresh breeze from the southward, +variable between South-South-East and South-South-West, now set in, and +was unfavourable for our seeing the coast as we passed it: Cape Bowling +Green was not seen, but the gradual decrease of soundings from eighteen +to fourteen fathoms, and the subsequent increase of depth, indicated our +having passed this low and dangerous projection. + +June 16. + +At daylight of the 16th, we passed outside the Palm Islands at the +distance of five miles. + +The weather continued so thick and rainy, that Mount Hinchinbrook was +quite concealed from our view; but a partial glimpse of the land enabled +me to distinguish Point Hillock, and afterwards to see Cape Sandwich, +Goold Island, and the group of the Family Isles. + +June 17. + +In passing the largest Frankland Island, the San Antonio was seen lying +at anchor near it, with her fore topsail loose, firing guns: seeing this, +we hauled to the wind, and made sail to beat up towards her, under the +idea of her being in distress; but as we approached, we observed a boat +alongside, and her top-gallant yards across, which were proofs that she +was not in such immediate danger, as to require our beating up, with the +risk of losing some of our spars, for the Dick had already sprung her +jib-boom; we, therefore, hove the vessels to, and soon afterwards the San +Antonio joined and passed under our stern, when Mr. Hemmans informed me +that the guns he had fired were intended as signals to his boat, and that +they were not meant for us. He had been aground, he said, on a reef near +the Palm Islands, but had received no damage: light, however, as he +pretended to make of this accident, it was a sufficient lesson for him, +and we soon found he had profited by it, for instead of preceding us, he +quietly fell into our wake, a station which he never afterwards left, +until all danger was over, and we had passed through Torres Strait. + +I had now determined upon taking up an anchorage round Cape Grafton +during the continuance of the bad weather, and for that purpose steered +through the strait that separates the cape from Fitzroy Island; and +anchored in six fathoms mud, at about half a mile from its northern +extremity. + +It is little remarkable that the day on which we anchored should be the +anniversary of the discovery of the bay; for Captain Cook anchored here +on the eve of Trinity Sunday, fifty-one years before, and named the bay +between Capes Grafton and Tribulation, in reverence of the following day. +In passing between Cape Grafton and Fitzroy Island, eight or ten natives +were observed seated on the rocks at the south end of the beach: one of +them waved his spear to us as we passed, but the distance was too great +to take any notice of him. + +In the afternoon we landed upon the small island in the bay, and found it +to be separated from the mainland by a very shoal channel, through which +our boat had some difficulty in passing; the island is small, and formed +of loose fragments of granite, over which the decomposed vegetable matter +had formed a soil, which, although shallow, was sufficient to nourish +some luxuriant grass (panicum) and a robust species of eucalyptus: among +these large flights of cockatoos and parroquets were hovering, but they +were very shy, and did not allow us to approach them: a small dove, +common to other parts of the coast, was killed. A native was seen walking +along a sandy beach behind the island, but proceeded without noticing our +boat, which was at that time passing. + +June 18. + +The following day the weather was so clear that, in the early part of the +morning, we distinctly saw the summit of the land at the back of Cape +Tribulation, bearing North 43 degrees West (magnetic); it must have been +fifty-five or sixty miles off; the fall of the land towards the extremity +of the cape was also seen, bearing North 35 degrees 50 minutes West +fifty-six miles. + +In the afternoon I went on shore near the north extremity of the Cape, to +procure some bearings; after which we strolled about, and found a +temporary stream of water falling into the sea. In walking past a grove +of pandanus trees, which grew near the water, we disturbed a prodigious +quantity of bronze-winged butterflies, reminding us, in point of number, +of the Euploea hamata, at Cape Cleveland in 1819. It proved to be a +variety of the Urania orontes (Godart) of Amboyna and the other Indian +Islands. Mr. Cunningham took advantage of the Dick's boat going to the +bottom of the bay, to cut grass: near their landing-place he found some +natives' huts; some of which were of more substantial construction than +usual, and were thatched with palm leaves: inside of one he found a +fishing rod, and a line, five or six fathoms long, furnished with a hook +made from a shell, like the hooks of the South Sea Islanders: he also +found a small basket, made from the leaf of a palm-tree, lying near the +remains of their fireplaces, which were strewed with broken exuviae of +their shell-fish repasts. + +A canoe twelve feet long, similar to the one described at Blomfield's +Rivulet (volume 1) was also seen; and, like it, was not more than nine +inches wide at the bilge. A small kangaroo was seen by Mr. Cunningham +feeding upon the grass, but fled the moment that it saw him approaching. + +Nothing more was seen of the natives, nor were any heard, or suspected of +being near us; had there been any number the party would have been placed +in an awkward situation, for upon landing, they all incautiously, and +very imprudently, separated, to amuse themselves as they were inclined, +without regarding the situation of the boat, which was soon left dry by +the ebbing tide; and it was eight o'clock at night before they succeeded +in launching her. Immediately after its return, for which we had been +waiting four hours, we got underweigh, and were only just in time to save +the breeze, which carried us out into the offing: after a short calm, the +wind gradually freshened from South-South-West, and we steered on under +easy sail towards Cape Tribulation. + +June 19. + +On passing the cape two reefs were seen to seaward, which had previously +escaped our notice. + +In the afternoon we anchored in ten fathoms, at about half a mile from +the north-west end of the reef that stretches for two miles to the +northward of the south-westernmost Hope Island; and, as it was low water +and the reef uncovered, we walked across it. It is formed principally of +coral, on the surface of which we found the gray trepang; a small Chama +gigas, a cypraea, a pretty azure-coloured species of asteria, and a few +bivalve shells. The few birds that frequented the reef were very shy, and +flew away at our approach: they were principally pelicans and terns. + +June 20. + +After weighing the next morning, we steered North 1/2 West, a course +farther to seaward than we had previously taken, in order to see the +reefs more distinctly, and to prove the width and extent of this part of +the channel; but the sun was shining in the direction of our course, and +the shadows of the clouds upon the water were at times so deceptious +that, whilst they often caused appearances of reefs where none existed, +they concealed others that, for the same reason, were not seen until we +were close to them. Having now the charge of two merchant-vessels, it was +necessary to proceed with caution, and therefore we steered nearly over +our last year's track, but notwithstanding, we now discovered several new +reefs, and informed ourselves of the extent and shape of others which had +escaped our previous observation. + +As we were rounding the two islands that lie close to the south side of +Lizard Island, a native was seen in a canoe, paddling towards another who +was sitting on the rocks watching our movements; and, as we hauled round +the south point of the bay, two others were observed walking towards the +beach; upon seeing us they stopped short and retreated up the hill; but, +after we anchored and sent a boat on shore, which was accompanied by one +from the Dick, they advanced, and without much hesitation, came forward +and communicated with our party. They carried spears with them, and each +of our gentlemen had their fowling-pieces: the appearance of Bundell, who +on these occasions always took his clothes off, perhaps gave them greater +confidence. After some vociferous and unintelligible parley, one of our +gentlemen, in order to give them further cause for the surprise which +they had already manifested to a great extent, unadvisedly fired his +fowling-piece; upon which, as might be expected, they became distrustful +and frightened, and, fixing their spears in their throwing sticks, walked +backwards at a quick pace, and withdrew altogether towards the hills. + +Lizard Island, and the Direction Isles to the south-westward, are of very +different character to the other islands which front this coast, being +high, rising to peaks, and of granitic formation. Captain Cook, in his +description of Lizard Island, mentions it as being a good place to +refresh at, on account of its supplying both wood and water; but, at the +same time we were there, the latter was not found, although the rain had +been lately falling in great quantity; with the former, however, it is +well supplied. This island, from its connection with Captain Cook's +misfortunes during his perilous navigation within the reefs, will always +be an interesting feature in the history of the discovery and examination +of this coast, and deserves a more appropriate appellation. + +June 21. + +Leaving Lizard Island the following morning, we directed our course for +Cape Flinders, over our last year's track. Upon passing Port Ninian, the +sea was observed to break heavily upon the Barrier Reefs, which in this +part approach nearer to the mainland than at any other. As we doubled +Cape Melville, the wind, as usual, freshened up to a strong breeze, and +carried us rapidly across Bathurst Bay: to the westward of the cape +several natives were observed walking upon the beach. + +In passing round Cape Flinders, there appeared to be a considerable +diminution in the remains of the Frederick's wreck. No vestige was left +of her stern or forecastle, both of which were before so very +conspicuous. At half-past five o'clock we anchored with our companions +near the usual place. + +June 22. + +The following morning, at daybreak, a party of men went to the wreck to +collect the spars and planks that had escaped the mischievous fires of +the natives; and at five o'clock I joined them with the master of the +Dick and Mr. Roe, ordering Mr. Bedwell to relieve the shore party with +some fresh hands at eight o'clock. When the time arrived, supposing that +the relief-party had nearly reached the shore, I sent the people over the +hill, in order to be ready when the boat arrived to go on board; and in +the meantime amused myself in wandering about the reef near the wreck, +where Mr. Roe was also employed. Mr. Harrison (the master of the Dick) +was at the further end of the beach with his fowling piece, with two of +his boat's crew picking up shells: when suddenly they were surprised by +hearing a loud shout, and seeing several spears strike the rocks about +them: upon looking round, Mr. Harrison found that a party of natives were +advancing upon him with their spears poised; upon which he presented his +gun at the foremost, but, from his having waded about in the water, the +powder had got damp and would not go off. Immediately that I heard the +shout of the natives, and saw Mr. Harrison retreating from the Indians, +who were in close pursuit, I hastened to his assistance, and came up in +time to prevent them from doing any mischief; and, by occasionally +levelling my gun, kept them at bay whilst we retreated towards the wreck, +from which we were about half a mile distant. By this time Mr. Roe, who +had also heard the noise, joined; but, as he had not a gun, the only +assistance he brought was an addition to our number. Among the four +foremost of the natives was a mischievous boy, who, being emboldened by +our not firing, and showing an anxiety to get away from them, fixed his +spear and aimed it at me; upon which I fired my gun, but, as it was only +loaded with small shot, it had no effect at the distance he was from me; +the noise, however, arrested their pursuit for a moment; and by the time +they recovered their surprise, I had reloaded with ball, but to my great +mortification, upon presenting the gun to deter the boy from throwing his +spear again, it missed fire: the weapon, which at first was aimed at me, +was then thrown at one of the Dick's men, and, piercing his hat, which he +was carrying at his breast, fortunately, full of shells, only slightly +wounded one of his fingers. The man, who to all appearance was +dangerously wounded, for the spear stuck in the hat and hung suspended in +the air, drew it out, and, throwing it on the ground with the greatest +composure, continued to retreat. The natives then finding we were not +intimidated or hurt by the spears, began to make friendly gestures, which +we, of course, returned, but still continued to walk away with our faces +turned towards them. + +We were now only four in number (for I had despatched one of the Dick's +people to recall our boat, and to order the crew over to our assistance) +and being without any means, or show of defence, it required much caution +and management on our part to prevent their throwing any more spears; for +they were now within a few yards of us: their ferocity, however, began to +diminish, as their attention was taken by our clothes and a silk +handkerchief which Mr. Roe held out to them: they were about ten in +number, of whom five or six were armed with spears. Our only safety now +was in letting them approach, and amusing them by a display of our silk +handkerchiefs and other parts of our dress, and making all the grimaces +and monkey-like gestures we could think of. + +Among the natives was a young woman, whom they repeatedly offered to us +by using the most significant signs; which she also endeavoured to +strengthen by appropriate gestures on her part; but our inclinations were +not consonant with the opportunity so pressingly, but so suspiciously, +offered. After our declining this honour, they occasionally laid their +hands upon our clothes to detain us, but it did not require much force to +make them quit their hold. One of the men having seized my gun, I drew it +out of his hand rather roughly; but, accompanied at the same moment with +the friendly gesture of patting his breast, the recovery was happily +effected without exciting his anger. + +In this manner, and with great fatigue, we continued our retreat across +the reef, and reached the wreck without any signs of our people coming to +our assistance; when the natives found we intended to walk round the +point, they divided, and gave their spears to a party that went over the +hills, as it were, to cut us off; but in this intention, if they +entertained it, they were disappointed, for our boat was there, and the +crew all embarked, ready to shove off, little expecting ever to see us +again. The idea of being thus easily deserted by our people was for a +moment mortifying, but I ordered some of the crew on shore, and by our +numbers kept the natives amused on the beach, while Mr. Harrison shoved +off in his gig to give the alarm, and to order some muskets to be sent +for our protection: by the time, however, that Mr. Bedwell arrived, we +had succeeded in making friends with the natives; who, upon perceiving +that we had now in our turn the superiority, began to draw away, and +appeared to be as anxious to get rid of us as we had been, half an hour +before, to escape from them; but we accompanied them halfway across the +reef, watching an opportunity to seize the boy who had wounded the Dick's +man, whom I intended to keep a prisoner while we were here, and then to +dismiss him with presents, to show that we were not inimical to them, +although angry at being so treacherously attacked. My intention, however, +was probably suspected, for they avoided our approaching sufficiently +near them to effect my purpose with the certainty of success, I therefore +called our people away to resume their work at the wreck, and, after +leaving orders with Mr. Bedwell not to fire but in self-defence, and if +an opportunity offered, to seize the boy, went on board with the party to +breakfast. I had not, however, left the shore long before hostilities +again commenced, and several shots were mischievously fired at the +natives by some of the Dick's and San Antonio's people, who, being +advanced, had very improperly endeavoured to cut off three of them, upon +which one of the natives poised his spear with a threat of throwing it, +when several muskets were fired at these miserable wretches, who, +fortunately for them, got clear off; although one of them by his limping +appeared to have been struck in the leg. + +After this we saw nothing more of them for the day. Mr. Bedwell was +employed with his party at the wreck, whilst Mr. Cunningham traversed the +hills in the vicinity, for it was not safe to trust himself at any +distance from our people, since the natives would not have failed, had +they met with an opportunity, to punish us for our broken faith. + +June 23. + +The following day, on the return of our people from the wreck, they +reported that the natives had shown themselves on the opposite side of +the bay; I therefore went to the shore with Mr. Harrison, to endeavour to +make peace, but saw no signs of them, excepting a smoke on the next +island, to which they had probably retired. On the following day they +were again seen, and fired upon by the boat's crew of the Dick. + +All these events gave me much concern, not only because the natives may +be induced to attack and take revenge upon strangers who may subsequently +pass this way, but also because they must have imbibed a very poor idea +of the effect of our arms, when so many muskets were fired without doing +them any mischief: and, but for the sake of humanity, I could almost have +wished that one had been killed. + +The day after we arrived here, a boat from the San Antonio conveyed Mr. +Montgomery and Mr. Cunningham to Clack's Island. The reef abounded with +shells, of which they brought back a large collection, but not in any +great variety; an indifferent cypraea was the most common; but there were +also some volutae and other shells, besides trepang and asteriae, in +abundance. Mr. Cunningham observed a singularly curious cavern upon the +rock, of which he gave me a description in the following account of the +island: + +"The south and south-eastern extremes of Clack's Island presented a +steep, rocky bluff, thinly covered with small trees. I ascended the steep +head, which rose to an elevation of a hundred and eighty feet above the +sea. I found simply the plants of the main, namely, Mimusops parvifolia, +Br.; Hoya nivea, Cunningham manuscript; Acacia plectocarpa, Cunningham +manuscript; Chionanthus axillaris, Br.; Notelaea punctata, Br.; some +alyxiae, and the small orange-fruited ficus, which grew in the thickets, +and, by insinuating its roots in the interstices of the rocks, clothed a +great portion of the inaccessible front of the island. + +"The remarkable structure of the geological feature of this islet led me +to examine the south-east part, which was the most exposed to the +weather, and where the disposition of the strata was of course more +plainly developed. The base is a coarse, granular, siliceous sandstone, +in which large pebbles of quartz and jasper are embedded: this stratum +continues for sixteen to twenty feet above the water: for the next ten +feet there is a horizontal stratum of black schistose rock, which was of +so soft a consistence, that the weather had excavated several tiers of +galleries; upon the roof and sides of which some curious drawings were +observed, which deserve to be particularly described: they were executed +upon a ground of red ochre (rubbed on the black schistus) and were +delineated by dots of a white argillaceous earth, which had been worked +up into a paste. They represented tolerable figures of sharks, porpoises, +turtles, lizards (of which I saw several small ones among the rocks) +trepang, star-fish, clubs, canoes, water-gourds, and some quadrupeds, +which were probably intended to represent kangaroos and dogs. The +figures, besides being outlined by the dots, were decorated all over with +the same pigment in dotted transverse belts. Tracing a gallery round to +windward, it brought me to a commodious cave, or recess, overhung by a +portion of the schistus, sufficiently large to shelter twenty natives, +whose recent fireplaces appeared on the projecting area of the cave. + +"Many turtles' heads were placed on the shelfs or niches of the +excavation, amply demonstrative of the luxurious and profuse mode of life +these outcasts of society had, at a period rather recently, followed. The +roof and sides of this snug retreat were also entirely covered with the +uncouth figures I have already described. + +"As this is the first specimen of Australian taste in the fine arts that +we have detected in these voyages, it became me to make a particular +observation thereon: Captain Flinders had discovered figures on Chasm +Island, in the Gulf of Carpentaria, formed with a burnt stick; but this +performance, exceeding a hundred and fifty figures, which must have +occupied much time, appears at least to be one step nearer refinement +than those simply executed with a piece of charred wood. Immediately +above this schistose stratum is a superincumbent mass of sandstone, which +appeared to form the upper stratum of the island." (Cunningham +manuscript.)* + +(*Footnote. Similar representations were found by Mr. White, carved on +stone in the neighbourhood of Port Jackson. White's Journal quarto page +141.) + +June 25. + +Having procured all the spars and planks from the wreck that could be +useful to us, we made preparations to sail, and at daylight, the 25th, +got underweigh with my two companions, and resumed our course to the +northward, over that of last year, excepting that we steered inside of +Pelican Island, and to leeward of Island 4. We passed several large +sting-rays asleep on the surface of the sea, which our people +ineffectually endeavoured to harpoon. On the former island large flights +of pelicans were seen, and upon the sandbank, to the southward of it, +there was a flock of two or three hundred young birds. + +The breeze not being sufficient to carry us to Night Island before dark, +the anchor was dropped in eleven fathoms muddy bottom, two miles to the +eastward of Island 8. The Dick and San Antonio anchored close to us. +During the night we had a fresh breeze from South-East by East, and, not +having any island or reef to shelter us from the swell, we were obliged +to drop a second anchor to retain our position. The San Antonio drove for +some distance, but the Dick rode through the night without driving, +although she had but forty fathoms of cable out. + +June 26. + +On weighing the next morning, we made sail to the North by West, but, +from the compass-box not being quite straight in the binnacle, we made a +North by West 1/2 West course, which was not discovered until we had +nearly paid dear for our neglect; for we passed close to a rock which I +intended to have gone at least a mile to windward of. It was seen just in +time to put the helm a-lee, or we should have run upon it. + +The weather was now so thick that we could not see a mile around us; we +were therefore obliged to follow our former courses, to avoid the risk of +running over a strange track in such unfavourable weather. At sunset we +anchored under the lee of Piper's Islets. + +June 27. + +The next day we anchored under Sunday Island in Margaret Bay, at about +half a mile from the sandy beach, on its north-west side. + +Here we were detained by bad weather until the 30th. + +June 30. + +When, with some slight appearance of improvement, and tired of losing so +much time, we weighed and proceeded on our course. After passing the Bird +Isles, thick weather again set in, with constant rain, and a strong +breeze from South-East. Upon reaching Cairncross Island, under which it +was my intention to anchor, the sails were reduced; and, as we were in +the act of letting go the anchor, Mr. Roe, who was at the masthead +holding thoughtlessly by the fore-topmast staysail-halyards, whilst the +sail was being hauled down, was precipitated from a height of fifty feet, +and fell senseless on the deck. We were now close to the reef; and, in +the hurry and confusion attending the accident, and the Dick at the same +time luffing up under our stern, the anchor was dropped, without my +ascertaining the quality of the bottom, which was afterwards found to be +of a very questionable nature. + +The Dick, having dropped her anchor within forty yards of us, was lying +so close as to prevent our veering more cable than sixty fathoms, but as +we appeared to ride tolerably easy with a sheer to starboard, while the +Dick rode on the opposite sheer, we remained as we were: to prevent +accident, the yards were braced so that we should cast clear of the Dick +if we parted, a precaution which was most happily taken. + +As soon as the distressing accident that had occurred was known on board +the Dick, Dr. Armstrong, a surgeon of the navy and a passenger in that +ship, hastened on board to assist Mr. Montgomery in dressing Mr. Roe's +hurt, which I found, to my inexpressible satisfaction, was not so +grievous as might have been expected: his fall was, most providentially, +broken twice; first by the spritsail brace, and secondly by some planks +from the Frederick's wreck, which had fortunately been placed across the +forecastle bulwark over the cat-heads: his head struck the edge of the +plank and broke his fall, but it cut a very deep wound over the right +temple. This unfortunate event threatened to deprive me of his very +valuable assistance for some time, a loss I could but very ill spare, +particularly when upon the point of returning to the examination of so +intricate a coast as that part where we last left off. + +At six o'clock in the evening the flood-tide began to set to leeward, and +as night approached the appearance of the weather became very +threatening, accompanied by a descent of the mercury; this gave me a very +unfavourable idea of our situation: the wind was blowing clear of the +reef, and raised a heavy sea; and the Dick was so close to us that we +dared not veer cable, for fear of getting on board of her, which must +have happened if either ship should break her sheer. + +At half-past ten o'clock, during a very heavy squall, the cable parted, +but from the precaution above-mentioned, the brig happily drifted with +her head to starboard, and passed clear both of the Dick and San Antonio; +the chain-cabled anchor was then dropped, and veered to ninety fathoms, +which brought her up in fifteen fathoms, mud; in which birth she appeared +to ride much easier than before. I was now very anxious about the lost +anchor; and, having expressed a wish to inform Mr. Harrison of our +situation, and to request him to recover our anchor in the morning if the +weather would permit, Mr. Bedwell volunteered to go on board her; which, +although a service of danger, was, if possible to be effected, absolutely +necessary. The boat was lowered, and they shoved off, but as the crew +were unable to pull it ahead, I called her on board again, which was most +fortunate; for shortly afterwards the chain-cable parted also, and the +brig drove with her head towards the shore. + +1821. July 1. + +We had now the prospect of being obliged to keep under sail during the +remainder of the night. An attempt was made to veer, in order that, by +laying to with her head off shore, we might have time to recover the +cable, without endangering the security of the vessel; but, from the +weight of the chain at the bow, this manoeuvre could not be effected; +fearing, therefore, to drift any more to the westward, in which direction +we were making rapid way, I was under the necessity of slipping the +chain, by which we lost one hundred fathoms of cable, which we could but +badly spare: being now freed from the impediment, the brig's head was +placed off shore; and after making sail, we fired several muskets and +showed lights, as signals to the Dick, who, it afterwards appeared, kept +a light up for our guidance; but the weather was so squally and thick, +with almost constant rain, that it was not seen by us. It was half-past +twelve o'clock when we made sail to the North-East by East, deepening +from fourteen to sixteen fathoms, and when the hillocky summit of +Cairncross Island bore South by West, beyond which bearing we did not +know how far we could proceed with safety; we tacked to the +South-South-West, and proceeded in that direction until the island bore +South, when we were in fourteen fathoms. Having thus ascertained the +depth of this space, which was about three miles in extent, it was +occupied during the remainder of the night; which, being very dark and +squally, was passed by us in the greatest anxiety. At day-dawn we were +joined by our companions, and, as it was not possible from the state of +the weather to regain the anchors we had lost, made sail towards Turtle +Island, on our way to which we passed Escape River: both of these places +reminded us of former perils, but the recollection of our providential +preservation on those occasions, as well as on many others during our +former voyages, increased the grateful feelings which we now felt for our +safety and protection during the last night, the anxieties and +circumstances of which can never be obliterated from our minds. + +Our course was directed entirely by the chart I had previously formed; +for the weather was so thick that for the greater part of the way no land +could be seen to guide us: by noon we had passed between Cape York and +Mount Adolphus, and in a short time rounded the north end of Wednesday +Island, and were steering between it and the North-West Reef. + +After passing the rock off Hammond's Island, we steered West by South 1/2 +South, but were obliged to haul up South-West by West to pass to the +southward of a small shoal, some part of which was uncovered (the time of +tide being nearly low water, spring tide): this shoal lies in a North 50 +degrees West direction, from the low rocky ledge off the north end of +Good's Island, and is distant from it about a mile and a half. The Dick +being a little to leeward of our track, had four fathoms; but the least +we had was five and three-quarters. This reef is not noticed in Captain +Flinders' chart: at high water, or even at half ebb, it is very +dangerous, from its lying in the direct track; but, by hauling over to +the south shore, may be easily avoided. + +At four o'clock we passed Booby Island, and steered West by South across +the Gulf of Carpentaria. + +July 3. + +Between Booby Island and Cape Wessel, which we passed in sight of on the +3rd, we had thick gloomy weather, with the wind between South and +East-South-East; and, after rounding the Cape had some heavy rain, in +which the mercury, having previously fallen to 29.91, rose to 29.95 +inches. Lightning from the east and west accompanied the rain, but the +wind was steady, and did not freshen or lull during the showers. + +July 5. + +On the 5th, at daylight, Goulburn Islands were seen, and at nine o'clock +we passed through the strait that divides them; our track being half a +mile more to the northward than that of last year, we had more regular +soundings. + +As soon as we anchored in South-West Bay, I sent on shore to examine our +former watering-place, but found that the stream had failed. The parched +up appearance of the island showed that the last had been an unusually +dry season; every place that, even in the month of August, six weeks +later, had before yielded large quantities, as well as the lagoon behind +the beach, which, from the nature of the plants growing in it, was +conjectured to be a never-failing supply, was now dried up. + +July 6 to 8. + +The next morning the brig's boat went over to Sims Island with Mr. +Cunningham, and there found a small quantity of water, sufficient, +according to Mr. Hemmans' report, for all our wants. The next morning +(7th) he moved the San Antonio over to the island, and anchoring her off +the sandy beach, landed his people to dig holes. In the afternoon he sent +me a specimen of what had been collected; but it was so brackish that I +gave up all idea of shipping any: he had improvidently dug large holes, +into which all the water good and bad had drained, and thereby the good +was spoiled. The following morning he sent another specimen, which, +notwithstanding it was considerably better, was still too bad to tempt me +to embark any. During the San Antonio's stay at Sims Island, our +gentleman paid it a visit: its vegetation appeared to have suffered as +much from want of rain as Goulburn Island. "The venerable tournefortia +(Tournefortia argentea. Lin.) however, appeared as an exception: this +tree, which grows on the centre of the beach, where it is remarkably +conspicuous, appeared to have resisted the dry state of the season; it +was in full leaf, and covered with a profusion of flowers, which +attracted a variety of insects, particularly of the genera apis, vespa, +and sphex; and among them a beautiful green-coloured chrysis." +(Cunningham manuscripts.) + +During the two last days, our people were employed cutting wood; no +natives had made their appearance, although recent tracks on the sand +showed they were not far off; but on the evening of the 7th, the surgeon, +accompanied by Dr. Armstrong of the Dick, landed in that vessel's gig, +and, whilst amusing themselves among the trees, and the boat's crew +incautiously wandering away from the boat, the natives came down, and +would have carried off all the boat's furniture, and everything in her, +had they not been disturbed by the return of one of the sailors with a +musket. They succeeded however, in making a prize of a new boat-cloak, +and the boat-hook, and one of them had nearly succeeded in carrying off +an oar, but upon being fired at, dropped his booty and scampered off. +This trifling loss was deservedly sustained by our gentlemen, for they +were well aware how suddenly the natives have always appeared, and how +mischievously they had on those occasions conducted themselves: they were +also cautioned, when they went on shore to be upon their guard, and it +was fortunate for them that nothing more serious occurred. + +July 8. + +At daylight, the 8th, the San Antonio rejoined us from Sims Island, and +at eleven o'clock we left the bay, and passed to the eastward of New +Year's Island: the Dick and ourselves then steered to the westward along +the coast, while the San Antonio steered a north-west course, and parted +company. + +July 9. + +The following day, being in sight of the land of Cape Van Diemen, and +having sent our letters on board the Dick for conveyance to England, we +parted company by an interchange of three cheers; and it was not without +a considerable degree of regret that we took this leave of our friends; +for it is but due to Mr. Harrison to say that we received very great +assistance from him on several occasions: he offered us his stream anchor +to replace in some degree our loss, although he had himself only one +left; it was, however, much too small for our purpose. + +By this opportunity I wrote to the Secretary of the Admiralty, and the +Under Secretary of State for the Colonies, and communicating to them a +brief account of our voyage up the east coast, acquainted them of my +intention of employing the fine-weather months of July and August upon +the north-west coast, and then of going to Mauritius, to replace our +anchors and cable, previous to our examination of the west coast. + + +CHAPTER 2. +Passage from Cape Van Diemen to Careening Bay. +Not finding water, visit Prince Regent's River, and procure it from the +Cascade. +Farther examination of the river. +Amphibious mud-fish. +Anchor in Halfway Bay, and explore Munster Water and Hanover Bay in a +boat. +Visit Hanover Bay, and procure water and fish. +Interview with natives. +The surgeon speared. +Retaliate upon them, and capture their rafts and weapons. +Description of their implements. +Port George the Fourth. +Islands to the westward. +Red Island of Captain Heywood. +Strong tides. +Camden Bay. +Buccaneer's Archipelago. +Cygnet Bay. +Dangerous situation of the brig. +High and rapid tides. +Cape Leveque. +Examination of the coast to Cape Latouche Treville. +Remarkable effect of mirage. +Leave the coast for Mauritius. +Voyage thither. +Arrival at Port Louis. +Refit. +Some account of the island. + +1821. July 9. + +Our course was held to the south-west towards Cape Londonderry; on which, +with a fresh South-East wind, we proceeded with rapidity. + +July 12. + +On the morning of the 12th, Eclipse Hill and Sir Graham Moore's Islands +were seen, and in the afternoon we passed Troughton Island; at sunset, +Point Hillock bore South thirteen miles, whence we steered to the +West-North-West and North-West, and rounded the north end of the long +reef, to the westward of Cape Bougainville. + +July 13. + +The next morning, at daylight, Cassini Island was seen bearing South by +West; here we were detained for two days by light baffling winds and +calms. + +July 14. + +During the night of the 14th, the wind was light from the westward, and +we stood off and on to the north of Cassini Island. + +July 15. + +At half-past one o'clock a.m., having sounded in thirty-three fathoms, we +shoaled suddenly to fourteen, when the vessel's head was put to the +southward, but the breeze was so very light, that she had hardly steerage +way: by the light of the moon a line of breakers was seen two miles off, +under our lee: we had now shoaled to nine fathoms on a rocky bottom, but +its great irregularity prevented our dropping the anchor until the last +minute, since it would have been to the certain loss of the only one we +had. In order, therefore, to save it, if possible, the boat was lowered, +and sent to sound between the vessel and the breakers. Finding we made no +progress off the reef by standing to the southward, we tacked; and, a +light breeze springing up from the westward, we drew off the bank on a +north-west course, and in the space of a mile and a half deepened the +water gradually to thirty fathoms. + +July 16. + +The next morning, at a quarter past eight o'clock, the breakers were +again seen; they were found to be 24 minutes 44 seconds West of Troughton +Island. The wind was too light to allow of our approaching, we therefore +tacked off to the westward, and soon lost sight of them; at noon we were +in latitude 13 degrees 26 minutes 26 seconds. The breakers from the +masthead, bearing south-east, distant eight or nine miles. + +During the ensuing night, having a fresh breeze, we stood first to the +westward, and afterwards to the south-east. + +July 17. + +At seven o'clock the next morning no land was in sight, but breakers were +seen extending from South by West to South-West by South, about five +miles off; and two miles beyond them was another line of breakers, +bearing from South-South-West to South-West by West. As we steered +obliquely towards them, they were noticed to extend still farther to the +eastward, but apparently in detached patches; our soundings, as we stood +on, shoaled to fifteen fathoms; and we were shortly within half a mile of +an appearance of shoal-water, in thirteen fathoms on a rocky bottom. The +wind now began to lessen; and, for fear of being becalmed, I was anxious +to get an offing. By our observations, we found the breakers this morning +were connected with those passed yesterday, and are a part of Baudin's +Holothurie Banks. The French charts of this part are very vague and +incorrect; for our situation at noon upon their plan (with respect to the +position of Cassini Island) was in the centre of their reefs. + +At noon we were in 13 degrees 38 minutes South, when a freshening breeze +from South-East enabled us to make progress to the southward. At two +o'clock some of the Montalivet Islands were seen; and before three +o'clock, an island was seen bearing South, which proved, as we stood +towards it, to be the northernmost of a group lying off the north-west +end of Bigge's Island; they were seen last year from Cape Pond, and also +from the summit of the hills over Careening Bay. + +July 19 to 21. + +At daylight (19th) having laid to all night, this group was about six +leagues off, bearing from South 35 1/2 to 49 degrees East, but a +continuation of calms and light winds detained us in sight of them until +the 21st. + +This group consists of eight or nine islands, and appears to be those +called by the French the Maret Isles; they are from one quarter to a mile +and a half in extent, and are rocky and flat-topped; the shores are +composed of steep, rocky cliffs. They are fronted on the west side by a +rocky reef extending in a North-North-East and South-South-West +direction. + +During the calm weather, in the vicinity of this group, we had seen many +fish and sea-snakes; one of the latter was shot and preserved; its length +was four feet four inches; the head very small; it had neither fins nor +gills, and respired like land-snakes; on each scale was a rough ridge: it +did not appear to be venomous. A shark was also taken, eleven feet long; +and many curious specimens of crustacea and medusa were obtained by the +towing-net. Some of the latter were so diaphanous as to be perfectly +invisible when immersed in the water. Among the former were a species of +phyllosoma, and the Alima hyalina of Leach.* + +(*Footnote. Cancer vitreus. Banks and Solander manuscripts. Lin. Gmel. +tome 1 page 2991. Astacus vitreus. Fabr. Syst. ent. page 417 n. 8.) + +At daylight we were about four leagues to the West-North-West of Captain +Baudin's Colbert Island; at the back of which were seen some patches of +the Coronation Islands. The night was passed at anchor off the +northernmost Coronation Island. + +July 23. + +And the following afternoon we anchored at about half a mile from the +sandy beach of Careening Bay. + +As soon as the vessel was secured, we visited the shore, and recognised +the site of our last year's encampment, which had suffered no alteration, +except what had been occasioned by a rapid vegetation: a sterculia, the +stem of which had served as one of the props of our mess-tent, and to +which we had nailed a sheet of copper with an inscription, was +considerably grown; and the gum had oozed out in such profusion where the +nails had pierced the bark that it had forced one corner of the copper +off. + +The large gouty-stemmed tree on which the Mermaid's name had been carved +in deep indented characters remained without any alteration, and seemed +likely to bear the marks of our visit longer than any other memento we +had left. + +The sensations experienced at revisiting a place which had so seasonably +afforded us a friendly shelter and such unlooked-for convenience for our +purposes, can only be estimated by those who have experienced them; and +it is only to strangers to such feelings that it will appear ridiculous +to say, that even the nail to which our thermometer had been suspended, +was the subject of pleasurable recognition. + +We then bent our steps to the water-gully, but, to our mortification, it +was quite dried up, and exhibited no vestige of its having contained any +for some time. From the more luxuriant and verdant appearance of the +trees and grass than the country hereabout assumed last year, when the +water was abundant, we had felt assured of finding it and therefore our +disappointment was the greater. + +July 24. + +After another unsuccessful search in the bight, to the eastward of +Careening Bay, in which we fruitlessly examined a gully that Mr. +Cunningham informed me had last year produced a considerable stream, we +gave up all hopes of success here, and directed our attention to the +cascade of Prince Regent's River; which we entered the next afternoon, +with the wind and tide in our favour, and at sunset reached an anchorage +at the bottom of St. George's Basin, a mile and a half to the northward +of the islet that lies off the inner entrance of the river, in seven +fathoms muddy sand. + +July 26. + +The following morning at half-past four o'clock Mr. Montgomery +accompanied me in the whale-boat to visit the cascade; we reached it at +nine o'clock and found the water, to our inexpressible satisfaction, +falling abundantly. + +While the boat's crew rested and filled their baricas, I ascended the +rocks over which the water was falling and was surprised to find its +height had been so underrated when we passed by it last year: it was then +thought to be about forty feet, but I now found it could not be less than +one hundred and fifty. The rock, a fine-grained siliceous sandstone, is +disposed in horizontal strata, from six to twelve feet thick, each of +which projects about three feet from that above it, and forms a +continuity of steps to the summit, which we found some difficulty in +climbing; but where the distance between the ledges was great we assisted +our ascent by tufts of grass firmly rooted in the luxuriant moss that +grew abundantly about the water-courses. On reaching the summit, I found +that the fall was supplied from a stream winding through rugged chasms +and thickly-matted clusters of plants and trees, among which the pandanus +bore a conspicuous appearance and gave a picturesque richness to the +place. While admiring the wildness of the scene, Mr. Montgomery joined +me; we did not however succeed in following the stream for more than a +hundred yards, for at that distance its windings were so confused among +rocks and spinifex that we could not trace its source. After collecting +for Mr. Cunningham, who was confined on board by sickness, a few +specimens of those plants which, to me, appeared the most novel, we +commenced our descent, and reached the bottom in safety; by which time +the tide was ebbing so rapidly that we set off immediately on our return +with a view of arriving on board by low-water, in order that no time +might be lost in sending the boats up with our empty water-casks. + +During our absence Mr. Roe, who was fast recovering from the effects of +his fall, had obtained the sun's meridional altitude upon the islet at +the entrance of the river, which gave 15 degrees 25 minutes 46 seconds +for its latitude, differing from the plan of last year by only fifteen +seconds. + +July 27. + +The following day the boats were despatched up the river, but as the +ebb-tide ran until after four o'clock it was late at night before they +reached the cascade, having experienced some delay by running upon the +sandbanks, which, above Alligator Island, are very numerous and form a +narrow winding channel of not more than twelve feet deep; these banks are +dry at low-water, and are composed of a yellow quartzose sand. At +midnight, as soon as the launch and cutter were loaded, for it did not +take more than half an hour to fill the casks, I despatched them to the +vessel with orders to return the following night for another load, and in +the meantime I purposed continuing the examination of the river, of which +we knew nothing beyond a few miles above the cascade. + +July 28. + +We were, however, unable to set out until half flood the next morning, on +account of the shoalness of the channel. + +For ten miles we found little or no variation either in its character or +course: its windings were only just sufficient to intercept a clear view; +for so direct was its course, that from this part the high round hill +near the entrance was seen midway between the hills that form the banks +of the river. + +Proceeding a little way farther, we were suddenly whirled into a rapid +amongst large stones, in the midst of which, as the stream was running at +the rate of five or six knots, the grapnel was instantly dropped, which +had the effect of reversing the boat's head. After this the grapnel was +weighed, and by very great exertions we extricated ourselves from the +rapid, and then landed at a hundred yards below the fall, on the east +bank, where the mangroves were so thick that it was with difficulty we +penetrated through them: having succeeded, we walked to the bank near the +rapid, and found that it was occasioned by the tide falling over a +barrier of rocks, which probably at low-water confines the fresh water +above this place; a few minutes afterwards it was high-water, and the +tide suddenly ceased to run; when the water became quite smooth and +motionless. + +A fresh-water rivulet, at that time the mere drainings of what +occasionally is a torrent, joined the main river, just above the rapid, +by a trickling stream; and made us the more desirous of extending our +knowledge of this extraordinary river: we therefore re-embarked, and, +passing the rapid, pulled up the river against the tide for a mile +farther, where it was suddenly terminated by a beautiful fresh-water +rivulet, whose clear, transparent stream was so great a contrast to the +thick, muddied water we had so long been pulling through that it was a +most gratifying sight, and amply repaid us for all our fatigue and +exertions. The fresh water was separated from the salt tide by a gentle +fall over rounded stones; but as the boat was unable to pass over them, +we had only time to fill our water-vessels, in order to be certain of +returning over the first rapid, before the strength of the stream +rendered it dangerous to pass. The bed of the river at this second fall +appeared to be about two hundred and fifty yards in breadth: its farther +course was lost sight of by a sharp turn, first to the North-East, and +then to the South-East, between high and rocky hills. + +Large groves of pandanus and hibiscus and a variety of other plants were +growing in great luxuriance upon the banks, but unhappily the sterile and +rocky appearance of the country was some alloy to the satisfaction we +felt at the first sight of the fresh water; as we did not, however, +expect to find a good country, the pleasure was not much diminished, and +we set off on our return, perfectly satisfied with the success of our +labours: we were at this time about fifty miles from the sea. + +The ebb-tide had fallen for an hour when we passed the first falls, but +there was no appearance of that violence which we witnessed in the +morning; probably because the stream had not reached its strength. + +An alligator was seen on our return, swimming within two yards of the +boat, and a musket, charged with a ball and buck-shot, was uselessly +fired at it. The appearance of these animals in the water is very +deceptious; they lie quite motionless, and resemble a branch of a tree +floating with the tide; the snout, the eye, and some of the ridges of the +back and tail being the only parts that are seen. The animal that we +fired at was noticed for some time, but considered to be only a dead +branch, although we were looking out for alligators, and approached +within six yards of it before we found out our mistake: the length of +this animal was from twelve to fifteen feet; I do not think that we have +ever seen one more than twenty feet long. + +We reached the cascade by four o'clock and remained there until our boats +arrived for a second cargo of water, which was at midnight; as soon as +the casks were filled, we set off on our return, but did not reach the +brig until eight o'clock in the morning. + +July 29. + +The fatigue and exposure which attended our watering at this place were +so great that I was obliged to give up the idea of completing it now. We +had obtained, by the two trips, enough to last until the end of October, +which, with the chance of finding more upon other parts of the coast, was +sufficient for our intended mode of proceeding. The boats were therefore +hoisted in, and preparations made to leave the anchorage. + +The river appears to abound with fish, particularly with mullet; and +porpoises were observed as high as the first falls, a distance of fifty +miles from the sea. A curious species of mud-fish (chironectes sp. +Cuvier) was noticed, of amphibious nature, and something similar to what +we have frequently before seen; these were, however, much larger, being +about nine inches long. At low water the mud-banks near the cascade that +were exposed by the falling tide were covered with these fish, sporting +about, and running at each other with open mouths; but as we approached, +they so instantaneously buried themselves in the soft mud that their +disappearance seemed the effect of magic: upon our retiring and +attentively watching the spot, these curious animals would re-appear as +suddenly as they had before vanished. We fired at several, but so sudden +were their motions that they generally escaped; two or three only were +procured, which appeared from their lying on the mud in an inactive state +to have been asleep; they are furnished with very strong pectoral and +ventral fins with which and with the anal fin, when required, they make a +hole, into which they drop. When sporting on the mud, the pectoral fins +are used like legs, upon which they move very quickly; but nothing can +exceed the instantaneous movement by which they disappear. Those that +were shot were taken on board, but on account of the extreme heat of the +weather they had become so putrefied as to be totally unfit for +preservation. + +July 30. + +The next day, the 30th, was spent in examining some bights in the narrow +part of the channel near Gap Island, so named from a remarkable division +in its centre, through which the high-tide flows, and gives it the +appearance of being two islands. It was on this occasion that we explored +Halfway Bay, where we were fortunate in finding good anchorage, and in +which we also discovered a strait, that on a subsequent examination was +found to communicate with Munster Water, and to insulate the land that +forms the north-west shore of the bay: this island was called after the +late Right Honourable Charles Greville, whose name has also been given to +a family of plants (grevillea) that bears a prominent rank in the botany +of this country. The strait, in which the tide was running at the rate of +six or seven knots, was not more than one hundred and fifty yards wide; +but in one part it was contracted to a much narrower compass, by a bed of +rocks that nearly extended across the strait, and which must originally +have communicated with the opposite shore. + +We landed under the flat-topped hill, at the south end of Greville +Island, among the mangroves which skirt the shore, and walked a few +hundred yards round the point, to examine the course of the strait; but +the way was so rugged, and we had so little time to spare, that we soon +re-embarked and returned into Halfway Bay. The geological character of +the island is a red-coloured, coarse-granular, siliceous sandstone, +disposed in horizontal strata, and intersected by veins of crystallised +quartz. The surface is covered by a shallow, reddish-coloured soil, +producing a variety of shrubs and plants. + +After this we crossed the river, and examined the two bays opposite to +Gap Island, but found them so shoal and overrun with mangroves that no +landing could be effected in any part. In both bays there is anchorage +between the heads; but all the inner part is very shoal, and perhaps at +low water there is not more than nine feet water within the heads. In the +mid-stream of the river the bottom is deep, and is formed entirely of +shells over which, on account of its being very narrow, the tide runs +with great strength; and from the irregularity of the bottom forms +numerous eddies and whirlpools, in which a boat is quite unmanageable. + +During our absence, Mr. Bedwell examined our former watering-place, at +the back of St. Andrew's Island, and on his return landed upon the sandy +beach of a bay on the south-west side of the basin, but was unsuccessful +in his search for water at both places. + +The sea breeze freshened towards sunset, and fanned up the fires that had +been burning for the last three days in several places upon the low land, +and on the sides of the hills to the westward of Mount Trafalgar; before +night they had all joined, and, spreading over the tops of the hills for +a space of three miles, produced a singularly grand and magnificent +effect. + +1821. August 1. + +At half past five o'clock the next morning we were under sail but, the +breeze being light, had only time to reach the anchorage under Greville +Island in Halfway Bay, before the tide turned against us. It was purposed +to remain only during the flood; but, on examination, the place was found +to be so well adapted for the purpose of procuring some lunar distances +with the sun, to correspond with those taken last year at Careening Bay, +that we determined upon seizing the opportunity; and as wood was abundant +on the island and growing close to the shores, a party was formed to +complete our holds with fuel, whilst Mr. Roe assisted me in taking +observations upon a convenient station on the north point of the bay +within Lammas Island, a small rocky islet covered with shrubs, and +separated from the easternmost point of Greville Island by a very shoal +and rocky channel. + +During these occupations we examined Munster Water: on our way to it we +landed on the reef off the east end of the Midway Isles, which was found +to be more extensive than had been suspected, and to embrace the group of +small rocks, which at high-water only just show their summits above the +water; at high-tide there is at least fifteen feet water over it, but +being low-water when we landed, the reef was dry. Upon it we found +several varieties of coral, particularly Explanaria mesenterina, Lam.; +Caryophylla fastigata, Lam.; and Porites subdigitata, Lam.: the only +shell that we observed upon the reef was a Delphinula laciniata, Lam. +(Turbo delphinus, Linn.). After obtaining bearings from its extremity, as +also from the summit of the outer dry rock, we landed upon a small +verdant-looking grassy mound, the northernmost islet of the group; but we +found the verdure of its appearance was caused only by the abundance of +the spinifex, through which we had, as usual, much difficulty in +travelling. After procuring some bearings from its summit we re-embarked +and pulled up Munster Water, supposing that it was connected with the +strait at the back of Greville Island; but as the tide then flowing was +running in a contrary direction to what was expected from the hypothesis +we had formed, we began to suspect some other communication with the sea, +and in this we were not deceived; for a narrow but a very deep strait +opened suddenly to our view, at the bottom of the Water, through which +some of the islands in the offing were recognised. In pulling through we +had kept close to the south shore, that we might not miss the +communication with Hanover Bay, but notwithstanding all our care we +passed by without noticing it, on account of the deceptious appearance of +the land; indeed the strait which we discovered leading to sea was not +seen until we were within two hundred yards of it, and would also have +escaped our observation had not the channel been so direct that the sea +horizon was exposed to our view. At the bottom of this arm are two deep +bays which were partially but sufficiently examined. In most parts of +Munster Water there is good anchorage amongst several small rocky +islands, on one of which we landed, and climbed its summit, but saw +nothing to repay us for the trouble or the danger of the ascent: the +surface was composed entirely of loose blocks of sandstone, which, when +trod upon, would crumble away or roll down the nearly perpendicular face +of the rock; and it was only by grasping the branches of the acacias and +other trees that were firmly rooted in the interstices of the +less-decomposed rocks that we were saved from being precipitated with +them. On our return we passed through the channel on the west side of the +Midway Isles which we found to be very deep and the stream very strong. + +August 4. + +The next day we pulled through the strait that insulates Greville Island, +and found that it communicated with Munster Water at a part where we had +yesterday concluded it likely to exist, and had in consequence steered +towards it; but as we proceeded the probability became less and less, and +we gave up the search when we were within three hundred yards of being +actually in it. + +We then pulled up Munster Water and afterwards through the strait to sea; +and, landing on some dry rocks on a reef which projects off the west head +of the strait, found that we were at the entrance of the bight, which was +last year named Hanover Bay: after taking a set of bearings, we +re-embarked and proceeded to the bottom of the bay which terminated in a +shoal basin. + +On our return we entered an opening in the rocky cliff which bore the +appearance of being the outlet of a torrent stream; being low-water, +there was not in many parts sufficient depth to float the boat; but after +pulling up for half a mile, a muddy channel was found, which, at the end +of another half mile, was terminated by a bed of rocks over which the +tide flows at high-water. The ravine is formed by steep precipitous rocks +which are at least two hundred and fifty feet high; it appeared to extend +to a considerable distance, and as the farther progress of the boat was +prevented by the stones and want of water, Bundell and two of the boat's +crew were despatched to examine a place farther on, where, from the green +appearance of the trees, it was thought not unlikely that there might be +a fresh stream. In this they were not disappointed, for after much delay +and trouble, from the difficulty of passing over the rocks, they returned +with two baricas full of fresh water, which they found in holes of +considerable size. + +In pulling up the river, an alligator was seen crawling slowly over the +mud banks, but took to the water before we came near it and did not +afterwards reappear. Many kangaroo-rats and small kangaroos were seen +skipping about the rocks, but they were very shy, and fled the moment +they saw us. + +Hanover Bay thus proving to afford good anchorage and an opportunity of +increasing our stock of water, as well as presenting a sandy beach on +which we could haul the seine, it was determined that we should visit it +as soon as the brig could be moved out of Prince Regent's River. + +On our return, which was over the same ground as we had passed in the +morning, we landed near two or three gullies on the inner side of the +island, which forms the eastern boundary of Munster Water, but were +unsuccessful in all our searches after fresh water. + +August 6. + +At daylight on the 6th we got underweigh to a light air of wind from the +southward, to leave Prince Regent's River; but notwithstanding the vessel +was under all sail she was very nearly thrown upon Lammas Island by the +tide, which was setting with great strength through the shoal passage +between it and Sight Point: as we passed without it we were not more than +five yards from the rocks. The wind then fell to a dead calm and the brig +was perfectly immovable in the water; but, drifted by the tide and +whirled round by the eddies, we were fast approaching the body of the +largest Midway Island, with a very great uncertainty on which side of it +the tide would drift us: when we were about three hundred yards from the +island the direction of the stream changed and carried us round its +south-east side, at about two hundred yards from the shore, but close to +the low rocks off its east end, on which we landed two days since. We +were under great anxiety for fear of being driven over the reef, on which +there could not have been sufficient water to have floated us; but our +fears of that danger were soon over for the tide swept us rapidly round +it. At this moment a light air sprang up which lasted only five minutes, +but it was sufficient to carry us past the junction of the Rothsay and +Munster Waters with the main stream. The vessel was at times unmanageable +from the violent whirlpools through which we passed, and was more than +once whirled completely round upon her keel; but our former experience of +a similar event prepared us to expect it, and the yards were as quickly +braced round. + +Having passed all the dangers, the ebb-tide very soon carried us out of +the river into Hanover Bay. In passing the easternmost of the outer +isles, the shrill voices of natives were heard calling to us, and Bundell +returned their shout, but it was some time before we could discern them +on account of the very rugged nature of the island: at last three Indians +were observed standing upon the rocks near the summit of the island but, +as the tide was running out with great strength, we were soon out of +hearing. + +Soon after one o'clock the brig was anchored at about half a mile off the +sandy beach in Hanover Bay, in eight fathoms (half flood) muddy bottom. +The boats were immediately hoisted out and sent up the river, but the +tide was ebbing and the difficulty of filling the casks so great that, +after great labour, we only procured a puncheon of water. The launch was +moored without the rocky bed of the river, while the jolly-boat conveyed +the baricas to her as they were filled, but even the latter could not get +within three hundred yards of the water, so that the people had to carry +the baricas over the rugged bed of the river for that distance, which +made the work laborious and slow; still however it was much less +distressing than the fatigue of watering from the cascade in Prince +Regent's River. At night a successful haul of the seine supplied our +people with abundance of fish, among which were mullets weighing from +three to five pounds; cavallos, whitings, silver fish, breams, and two +species of guard-fish. + +August 7. + +While our people were employed the next morning in washing the decks, +they heard at a distance the voices of natives; at eight o'clock they +were again heard and at ten o'clock they were close by; shortly +afterwards three, of whom one was a woman, were seen standing on the +rocks waving their arms. Being curious to communicate with the +inhabitants of this part of the coast, since we had not seen any between +this and Vansittart Bay, a party consisting of the surgeon, Mr. Bedwell, +Mr. Baskerville, and myself, went on shore to the place where the natives +were seated waiting for us. Bundell, who generally accompanied us on +these occasions divested of his clothes, stood up in the bow of the boat, +and, as we approached the shore, made signs of friendship, which the +natives returned, and appeared quite unconcerned at our approach. On +landing we climbed the rocks on which the two men were standing, when we +found that the woman had walked away: upon our approach they retired a +few paces and evidently eyed us in a distrustful manner; but, as they had +dropped their spears, and repeated the sign of peace that we had made to +them, we did not hesitate to walk towards them unarmed, desiring the +boat's crew to be prepared with the muskets, if called. When we joined +them they had their spears poised ready to throw, but on our presenting +them with some of the fish that we had caught the preceding evening they +dropped their spears and immediately returned us something in exchange; +one gave a belt, made of opossum fur, to Bundell; and the other, the +tallest of the two, gave me a club that he carried in his hand, a short +stick about eighteen inches long, pointed at both ends. This exchange of +presents appeared to establish a mutual confidence between us, and, to +strengthen it, I presented my friend with a clasped knife, after showing +him its use, the possession of which appeared to give him great pleasure. + +By this time Mr. Montgomery and Mr. Bedwell joined us; the latter +gentleman was unarmed, but the former had a pistol concealed under his +coat and carried a fish which he held out for them to take; but, as they +would not approach us nearer than two or three yards, he threw it towards +them, when the shortest native picked it up. Upon this accession to our +numbers they began to talk to each other, and at the same time picked up +their spears; but as the latter appeared only to be a cautionary movement +we did not anticipate their mischievous intentions. I then, with a view +to amuse them, made signs to my friend for the knife, which he put into +my hands without showing the least reluctance, upon which he was again +instructed how to open and shut it; but as this, instead of pacifying, +only served to increase their anger, the knife was thrown at his feet, +which he instantly picked up, and then both retired a few paces in a very +suspicious manner. + +We were at this time about three or four yards from the natives, who were +talking to each other in a most animated way, and evidently intent upon +some object; and, as it appeared probable that, if we remained any +longer, a rupture would ensue, it was proposed that our party should +retire to the boat, under the idea that they would follow us down; no +sooner, however, had we waved to them our farewell, and turned our backs +to descend the rocks, than they unexpectedly, and in the most treacherous +manner, threw their spears; one of which, striking a rock, broke and fell +harmless to the ground, but the other, which was thrown by the tallest +man, wounded Mr. Montgomery in the back; the natives then, without +waiting to throw their second spears, made off, closely pursued by +Bundell, who had armed himself with the broken spear; but they were out +of sight in a moment, and, by the time that the muskets were brought to +our assistance, were doubtless out of gun-shot. A pursuit was, however, +commenced, but our progress was so much impeded by the rugged and rocky +nature of the ground and by the abundance and intricate growth of the +shrubs and trees that we very soon desisted, and returned to the boat, to +which Mr. Montgomery had been in the meantime carried, complaining of +great weakness from loss of blood. + +Upon examining Mr. Montgomery's wound, which unfortunately was in such a +part of his body that he could not himself inspect it, it appeared that +the spear had penetrated about three inches; and, from the quantity of +extravasated blood, great fears were entertained that he had received a +very serious internal injury. The wound, from which he was suffering very +great pain, was dressed according to his instructions, but it was several +days before he considered himself out of danger. + +August 8. + +The next morning at eleven o'clock a native was seen on a float, or +catamaran, paddling round the west point of the strait, and another man, +a woman, and a child, were observed on the rocks, who, in less than a +quarter of an hour, came down to the spot where we met them yesterday, +and began to wave and call to us. An opportunity now offered of punishing +these wretches for their treacherous conduct, and of disappointing them +in their present plans, for they were evidently intent upon some +mischief. Mr. Bedwell was therefore despatched to secure their catamaran, +which was hauled up on a sandy beach near the outer point, whilst another +boat was sent towards the natives: when the latter arrived near the +shore, they were sitting on the rock and inviting us to land; but it was +necessary to convince them that we were not so defenceless as they +imagined, and, as soon as we were sufficiently near, several muskets were +fired over their heads: one of them fell down behind a rock, but the +other made off. The native who had fallen was wounded in the shoulder, +and was recognised to be the man that speared Mr. Montgomery; he made +several attempts to get away, but every time his head appeared above the +rock which concealed him from us, a pistol or a musket was fired to +prevent his escape; at last, however, he sprang up, and, leaping upon the +rock with a violent effort, was instantaneously out of sight. + +As soon as he was gone we pulled round to the sandy bay where the natives +had landed and overtook Mr. Bedwell, who was passing by the place. Upon +the beach we found two catamarans, or floats, on each of which a large +bundle of spears was tied with ligatures of bark; and on searching about +the grass we soon found and secured all their riches, consisting of +water-baskets, tomahawks, spears, throwing-sticks, fire-sticks, +fishing-lines, and thirty-six spears; some of the latter were of large +size, and very roughly made, and one was headed with a piece of stone +curiously pointed and worked. This last spear is propelled by a +throwing-stick, which was also found lying by it. After launching the +catamarans and securing everything found upon them, they were towed round +by the boats to where we had fired upon the natives, whilst a party +walked over land to examine the place. On the way several spears were +discovered placed ready for use on their retreat to the beach, where, +from the quantity collected, they evidently intended to make a stand; +supposing no doubt from our appearance yesterday that we were +defenceless, and would therefore fall an easy prey. On reaching the rock, +behind which the native fell, it was found covered with blood; and +Bundell, who probably did the deed, said the wound was on his shoulder. +We traced their retreat by the blood for half a mile to the border of a +mangrove inlet, which they had evidently crossed, for the marks of their +feet were perceived imprinted in the mud. We then gave up the pursuit, +and went on board. + +Upon examining the baskets, among other things a piece of iron hoop was +found fixed in a wooden handle, which it seemed they had used for the +purpose of digging up roots. This hoop must have been left by us last +year at Careening Bay. But what chiefly attracted our attention was a +small bundle of bark, tied up with more than usual care; upon opening it +we found it contained several spear-heads, most ingeniously and curiously +made of stone; they were about six inches in length, and were terminated +by a very sharp point; both edges were serrated in a most surprising way; +the serratures were evidently made by a sharp stroke with some +instrument, but it was effected without leaving the least mark of the +blow: the stone was covered with red pigment, and appeared to be a flinty +slate. These spear-heads were ready for fixing, and the careful manner in +which they were preserved plainly showed their value, for each was +separated by strips of bark, and the sharp edges protected by a covering +of fur. A wound with such a spear must be mortal; and it was very +fortunate for Mr. Montgomery that his was not inflicted with one of these +truly formidable weapons. Their hatchets were also made of the same +stone, the edges of which are ground so sharp that a few blows serve to +chop off the branch of a tree. + +The catamarans consisted of five mangrove stems lashed together to a +frame of smaller wood, as in Woodcut 2: they are bouyant enough to carry +two natives, besides their spears and baskets. A representation of this +mode of conveyance is also given in Woodcut 1. + +These natives were more robust-looking men than any we had before seen; +the tallest must have been at least six feet two inches high; their +bodies were scarred all over; their teeth perfect, and they were quite +naked. The shorter native had his hair collected into a knob at the top +of his head, which gave him a ferocious appearance. The punishment they +so justly received will make them respect in future the formidable nature +of our arms. + +At night we hauled the seine, and procured about four dozen fish, +principally mullet. An armed party was stationed above the beach to +prevent any attack from the natives, but they did not show themselves. + +August 9. + +On the following day we again heard them shouting and hallooing but it +was some time before we could observe their situation; at last five were +discovered by the aid of a telescope, seated on the summit of a hill +behind the beach, occupied in making spears; at a little distance were +two others, one of whom was distinguished to be the native that had +escaped unwounded; the other, a stranger, was chopping a branch off a +tree, which he was seen to trim and scrape into a rough spear. During the +time they were thus employed, they frequently hallooed to us; no notice +was however taken of their cries, although the temptation was very great +of firing a shot over their heads to show them that they were still +within our reach. As soon as they had finished their work and had made +about a dozen spears, they all got up and walked away. + +After they disappeared behind the hill it was thought not unlikely that +they would attack our people at the watering-place; the party were +therefore sent away in the afternoon well armed, but the natives did not +make their appearance, and the boats returned at sunset without having +been disturbed. The tide was so trifling and the difficulty of loading +the boat so great that only ninety gallons of water were procured; and as +we were not likely to make quicker progress unless we waited for the +spring-tides, we gave up all idea of completing our water, and made +preparations to leave the bay. + +August 10. + +On the following day (10th) as there was no wind all the morning, I sent +for another turn of water but only obtained enough for one day's issue; +for the tide did not rise more than four feet. In the meantime I visited +the extreme point on the west side of the bay, and examined in my way +some openings in the land that, from their appearance, promised to afford +water: as it was low tide I could not enter them, for they were blocked +up by banks of sand and rocks; but on my return the tide was higher, and +I pulled about one mile up the northernmost inlet, where I was again +stopped by the shoalness of the water. All these places must afford +abundance of fresh water during the rainy season, and perhaps are seldom +without; and, as this was a year of unusual drought, it is not improbable +that the river in which we watered generally afforded a very considerable +stream; if so, from its proximity to the anchorage, the bay is of great +importance, and is an excellent place for refreshment: turtle might be +procured at the islands in its vicinity, and abundance of very fine fish +at the sandy beach: the anchorage is safe in all parts, being protected +from the sea by the islands in the offing, which front the bay. There is +also abundance of wood that may be cut close to the waterside. + +Ships detained during the westerly monsoon, as far to leeward as the +meridian of 125 degrees, would find an advantage in putting into Hanover +Bay, and remaining there until the wind should veer round: by which they +would avoid the necessity of beating to windward, over such dangerous +ground as extends between this part to Timor; and, by being to the +southward, out of the strength of the westerly winds, at the latter end +of February and beginning of March, when southerly and south-east winds +prevail on the coast, they might much earlier effect their passage to the +westward. + +The beach of Hanover Bay is situated in latitude 15 degrees 18 minutes 21 +seconds, and 13 minutes 40 seconds West of our observatory at Careening +Bay, which makes its longitude 124 degrees 47 minutes 5 seconds East of +Greenwich. + +August 11. + +The next morning (11th) we left Hanover Bay and steered out at the +distance of a mile and a half from the western shore. After passing round +the western head, we entered a deep opening, and, running into it for +some distance between a rocky shore on either side, came into an +extensive basin, in the centre of which was a high island which we saw at +a distance last year, and then called the Lump, from its shape. As a set +of bearings from this island was desirable, the vessel was anchored +abreast of it at about a mile and a half from the shore; having landed +upon it in time to observe the sun's meridional altitude in the +artificial horizon, we ascended its summit and obtained the desired +bearings; we also discovered Freycinet's Island on the horizon, bearing +North 13 degrees 42 minutes West; this island was distinguished easily by +its form, which is that of an inverted basin. A large island lies in the +centre of the entrance of the port, by which two channels are formed; the +westernmost has several patches of rocks in it, but the eastern one, +which we used, appeared to be clear and free from danger, excepting a +rocky shelf projecting from the eastern shore for not more than three +quarters of a mile. In the afternoon we examined the former, and from a +summit at the south-west end of the island in the entrance obtained +another set of bearings. Afterwards we sounded its channel, and found a +deep passage, but too narrow and intricate to be preferred to the eastern +channel. + +Whilst one boat was thus employed, Mr. Baskerville went to examine an +opening at the bottom of the port, which he reported to be a strait, +trending round to the South-West for six miles, beyond which his view was +intercepted by the next projecting point. The strait, which he called +after Captain R.H. Rogers, R.N., is sprinkled with many islands and dry +reefs of great extent. + +August 12. + +On the 12th I was occupied in laying down the plan of this place, which, +on account of the day, was honoured with the name of our most gracious +king, Port George the Fourth. + +August 13. + +The next day we sailed out by the eastern channel, but having to beat +against the wind, made no further progress than an anchorage off Point +Adieu, which was the last land seen by us in the Mermaid; it is the north +end of the land that forms the west side of Port George the Fourth, which +was afterwards called Augustus Island: to the westward of the point there +appeared to be many islands and much broken land. I sent Mr. Roe to Point +Adieu to get some bearings from the summit of the hill, and in the +meantime Mr. Baskerville sounded the channel between the point and the +islands; which he found to be deep and clear; Mr. Roe's report, however, +of the appearance of the inner part among the islands was not so +favourable, for it is studded over with numerous extensive reefs, which, +being low water, were exposed to view. Mr. Roe saw a tolerably broad +separation between two islands to the south-west, but more to the +westward the islands were so numerous that very little information as to +their shape or number could be obtained. + +August 14. + +At daylight the following morning we weighed, and with a moderate +land-breeze from South-East, steered to the North-West, and passed round +the islands. Very far to the northward on the sea horizon we saw a +sandbank, surrounded with heavy breakers; and more to the westward was an +island, which was at first supposed to be one of the Champagny Isles of +Captain Baudin, but which I afterwards satisfied myself was Captain +Heywood's Red Island: it is rocky and of small extent and apparently +quite barren. We were soon afterwards abreast of a strait leading between +some rocky islands to the southward; which, as it appeared to be free +from danger, we purposed to steer through. The brig entered it at noon, +when it was high-water, and as she advanced and reached the narrow part, +the ebb-tide was setting so strong against us that, although we were +sailing five knots by the log, we were losing ground; we continued +however to persevere for three hours and a half, and had run nearly +twenty miles by the log without gaining an inch; the breeze then died +away, and not being able to stem the tide, we steered back for anchorage, +but it was dark and late before a favourable bottom was found so that we +lost all the progress that we had gained since noon. + +August 15. + +The next morning, after taking angles from the sun's rising amplitude, we +got underweigh and stood towards the strait to make another attempt to +pass through it. The view that was obtained yesterday evening from the +masthead before we put about to look for anchorage, induced us to suppose +that many reefs existed in the neighbourhood of its south entrance, for +one of very extensive size was observed dry, lying off the south-west end +of the island that bounds the west side of the strait. The north end of +that island also appeared to be fronted by many shoals, which either +embrace Red Island and extend to the northward, or else the channels are +narrow and deep. The flowing tide, now in our favour, carried us quickly +forward: as we passed on we heard the voices of natives and soon +afterwards perceived two standing on a hill; our course was, however, so +rapid that we were soon out of sight of them; their fires were seen +yesterday but then they did not make their appearance. + +The flood-tide, running to the South-West through the strait, meeting the +ebb flowing North-East into the deep bay to the South-East, formed many +strong ripplings, which to a stranger would have been a frightful vortex +to have entered, and although we had lately been accustomed to such +appearances, yet we did not encounter them without some fear. After +clearing them we sounded on a muddy bottom; upon which, as the weather +was so thick and hazy as to conceal the land from our view, we anchored +in seventeen fathoms muddy sand, at six miles from the strait. + +In the afternoon the weather cleared a little, but it was still too thick +for us to be underweigh, so that we remained all the evening, which was +profitably spent in bringing up the chart; a little before sunset the +weather cleared and afforded a good view of the land, which to the +South-East is composed principally of islands, but so numerous that the +mainland could not be distinguished beyond them; a point, afterwards +called Point Hall, round which the land trended to the southward, bore +from the anchorage South 19 degrees East. + +The direction of the tides, the flood setting South-South-East, and the +ebb North-North-West and North-West, induced me to suppose that the +opening to the eastward of the bay we were at anchor in, which was called +Camden, in compliment to the noble Marquess, was not only connected with +Rogers Strait, but was also the outlet of another considerable river or +bay. + +At the anchorage the flood did not run at a greater rate than a mile and +a half an hour, but it ebbed two miles, and fell thirty-seven feet, which +is the greatest rise and fall we had yet found; it is probable, from the +intricate nature of the coast, that these high tides are common to all +this neighbourhood. + +August 16. + +At five o'clock on the morning of the 16th after a fine night the wind +sprung up from the East-South-East and blew fresh; but misty weather +immediately after sunrise enveloped us, and clouded our view. The breeze +was too fresh for us to continue at anchor, we therefore got underweigh, +and made sail by the wind; but upon standing across the channel and +finding that the flood-tide set to the South-West, we bore away, and, +passing round Point Hall, steered to the southward towards some low +islands that were just visible through the haze, and which, being +disposed in a group, were named after Mr. Andrew Montgomery, the surgeon +of the Bathurst. + +At noon our latitude observed to the South was 15 degrees 44 minutes 16 +seconds. The land was visible from the deck as far as South 30 degrees +West, but from the masthead at one o'clock it was seen as far as South 50 +degrees West, and a long low island, the westernmost of Montgomery Isles, +bore from South-West by West to South-West by South. The group besides +this contained six other isles, which are all low and rocky and crowned +with bushes: as we approached them the water shoaled to ten fathoms rocky +ground; which on being reduced to the depth of low water, would not be +more than five and perhaps only four fathoms. Between Point Hall and +these islands the ground was also rocky, and, as the group appeared to be +connected by reefs, we steered off to pass round them; the wind, however, +changing to the westward, detained us all the evening near them. + +The land to the southward trended deeply in and appeared to be much +broken in its character and very uninviting to us who had only one anchor +to depend upon. This bight was named, at Mr. Montgomery's request, in +compliment to the late Captain Sir George Collier, Bart., K.C.B., R.N. +During the greater part of the night the wind was light, and by the +bearings of a fire on the land we were making but little drift. + +August 17. + +At sunrise we were near two low islands, bearing South 12 degrees 22 +minutes West, and South 20 degrees West, from which very extensive reefs +were seen extending between the bearings of South and South-West by West. +They were called Cockells Isles. We passed round their north end over a +bottom of hard sand, mixed with shells, stones, and coral; in doing which +we found an irregular depth, but as the water did not shoal to less than +twelve fathoms our course was not altered. Soon after the sun appeared +above the horizon the distant land was again enveloped in mist. At eight +o'clock we ventured to steer more southerly, but continued to sound over +a rocky bottom until ten o'clock, when the islands bore South-East; we +then steered South-West through a muddy channel with the flood tide in +our favour, towards some land that, as the mist partially cleared off, +became visible as far as South-West 1/2 West; some islands were also seen +bearing South-South-East; and at noon, being in latitude 15 degrees 50 +minutes 39 seconds, we found ourselves off a bay, the east head of which +was formed by several islands. The land at the back appeared to be of +tolerable height but its outline was so level, that it did not present +any prominent feature sufficiently defined to take a bearing of more than +once; its coast appeared to be fronted by several rocky islands and to be +very much intersected to the westward; either by straits or considerable +openings. + +The continued hazy state of the weather prevented our ascertaining the +particular feature of the country; it seemed to be rocky and very bare of +vegetation; but they were some parts, particularly on one of the islands +to the eastward at the entrance of Collier's Bay, where a few good-sized +trees were growing over a sandy beach. + +The ebb tide after noon was against us, and the wind being light, we were +making no progress. As sunset approached, we began to look for anchorage; +but the suspicious nature of the bottom and the great depth of the water +prevented our being successful until some time after dark; the anchor was +at last dropped in twenty-eight fathoms, on a bottom of sandy mud, with +the ebb-tide setting to the North-West, at the rate nearly of two knots. + +Several whales of that species called by whalers fin-backs were playing +about us all day, and during the morning two or three were seen near the +vessel lashing the water with their enormous fins and tails, and leaping +at intervals out of the sea, which foamed around them for a considerable +distance. + +After anchoring the wind was variable and light from the western quarter +but during the night there was a heavy swell. The flood-tide, which +commenced at nine o'clock, when the depth was twenty-eight fathoms, +gradually ran stronger until midnight, when its rate was two miles per +hour: high-water took place at 3 hours 15 minutes a.m., or at twelve +minutes before the moon passed her meridian; the rise being thirty-six +feet. + +August 18. + +We were underweigh before six o'clock the next morning, and after +steering by the wind for a short time towards the southward (on which +course the tide being against us we were making no progress) bore up with +the intention of hauling round the point to leeward for anchorage, whence +we might examine the place by the means of our boats, and wait for more +favourable weather; but upon reaching within half a mile of the point we +found that a shoal communication extended across to a string of islands +projecting several miles to sea in a West-North-West direction: in mid +channel the sea was breaking, and from the colour of the water it is more +than probable that a reef of rocks stretches the whole distance across +the strait; but this appearance, from the experience we afterwards had of +the navigation of this part, might have been produced by tide ripplings, +occasioned by the rapidity of the stream, and by its being contracted in +its passage through so narrow a pass; it was however too doubtful and +dangerous to attempt without having some resource to fly to in the event +of accident. + +Being thus disappointed, we were under the necessity of steering round +the above-mentioned range of islands, and at nine o'clock were two miles +North-East by East from the small island 18, when our latitude by +observation was 15 degrees 57 minutes 56 seconds; the depth being +thirty-seven fathoms, and the bottom of coral mixed with sand, mud, and +shells. + +To the westward and in a parallel direction with this line of islands was +another range, towards which we steered; at sunset we hauled to the wind +for the night, off the northernmost island which afterwards proved to be +the Caffarelli Island of Captain Baudin. Between these two ranges of +islands we only obtained one cast of the lead which gave us thirty-three +fathoms on a coral bottom. Upon referring to the French charts of this +part of the coast it appeared that we were in the vicinity of a reef +(Brue Reef) under which the French ships had anchored; and, as the night +was passed under sail, we were not a little anxious, fearing lest there +might be others in its neighbourhood. + +August 19. + +At daybreak Caffarelli Island bore South-South-East; and shortly +afterwards we had the satisfaction of seeing Brue Reef; it appeared to be +partly dry but of small extent. + +We passed within half a mile of the dry rock that lies a mile and a half +from the west end of Caffarelli Island and afterwards endeavoured to +steer between the range of islands, of which Caffarelli is the +northernmost, and a group of rocky isles, marked 33; but finding we could +not succeed from the scanty direction of the wind, then blowing a fresh +breeze from South-East, we bore up round the west side of the latter and +then steered by the wind towards a group of which the island 40 is the +principal. On approaching 40 there appeared to be a channel round its +south-end; but afterwards observing the sea breaking in the direction of +our course, we tacked off to pass round the west extremity of the group, +towards two small low islands, 50 and 51, that were seen in the distance +bearing about South 84 degrees West. The tide, having been before in our +favour, was now against us, and, setting with great strength, drove us +near the rocks that front the islands to the northward of Island 40; the +wind was however sufficiently strong to enable us to clear the dangerous +situation we found ourselves in, but soon afterwards it fell to a light +air and we were carried by the tide rapidly towards the low rocky +extremity of the islets, which we were nearly thrown upon, when a breeze +suddenly sprung up again from the South-East and enabled us to clear this +impending danger. We were now drifting to the South by East through a +wide channel, sounding in between fifty and sixty fathoms, rocky bottom. +Had the evening been less advanced and the wind favourable, we could have +run through, and taken our chance of finding either anchorage or an open +sea; and although this would certainly have been hazarding a great risk, +yet it was of very little consequence in what part of the archipelago we +spent the night, as the spots which we might consider to be the most +dangerous might possibly be the least so. We had however no choice; we +were perfectly at the mercy of the tide, and had only to await patiently +its ebbing to drift us out as it carried us in. + +By our calculations high-water should have taken place at a quarter past +four o'clock; every minute therefore after that time was passed by us +most anxiously. Every now and then we were in the midst of the most +violent ripplings and whirlpools, which sometimes whirled the vessel +round and round, to the danger of our masts. Five o'clock at last arrived +and the tide-eddies ceased, but the stream continued to run until a +quarter of an hour afterwards, when at last the brig began to drift out +slowly. To add now to the dilemma and the danger we were in a breeze +sprung up against us: had it continued calm we should have been drifted +back through the deepest part of the channel, over the same ground that +the flood had carried us in: we however made sail and beat out, and +before dark had made considerable progress; we then lost sight of the +land until eleven o'clock when some was seen to the eastward: at +half-past eleven we had a dead calm; and, to increase our anxiety, the +tide had begun to flow and to drift us towards the land, which was then +ascertained to be the group 33, on whose shores the sea was distinctly +heard to break. As midnight approached the noise became still more and +more plain; but the moon at that time rose and showed that our position +was very much more favourable than we had conjectured; for, by bearings +of Caffarelli Island and the body of 33 group, I found we were at least +two or three miles from the shore of the latter. + +August 20. + +A few minutes after midnight we were relieved from our fears by the +sudden springing up of a fresh breeze from South-West, and in a moment +found ourselves comparatively out of danger. + +At daylight we were eight miles to the north-east of Caffarelli Island; +whence we steered to the South-West by West and South-South-West. Brue +Reef was seen as we passed by it. At noon our latitude was 16 degrees 14 +minutes 1 second, Cape Leveque bearing South. + +From noon until one o'clock we were steering South-South-West, but made +no progress, on account of an adverse tide which occasionally formed such +strong eddies and ripplings that we were several times obliged to steer +off to get without their influence. The land of Cape Leveque is low, and +presents a sandy beach lined by a rocky reef, extending off the shore for +a mile, on many parts of which the sea was breaking heavily: the land was +clothed with a small brush wood, but altogether the coast presented a +very unproductive appearance, and reminded us of the triste and arid +character of the North-West Cape. + +On laying down upon the chart the plan of this part, I found Cape Leveque +to be the point which Dampier anchored under when on his buccaneering +voyage in the Cygnet in 1688. He says: "We fell in with the land of New +Holland in 16 degrees 50 minutes, we ran in close by it, and finding no +convenient anchoring, because it lies open to the North-West, we ran +along shore to the eastward, steering North-East by East, for so the land +lies. We steered thus about two leagues, and then came to a point of +land, from whence the land trends east and southerly for ten or twelve +leagues; but how, afterwards, I know not. About three leagues to the +eastward of this point there is a pretty deep bay with abundance of +islands in it, and a very good place to anchor in or to hale ashore. +About a league to the eastward of that point we anchored in twenty-nine +fathom, good hard sand and clean ground." He then proceeds to say: "This +part of it (the coast) that we saw is all low, even land, with sandy +banks against the sea, only the points are rocky, and so are some of the +islands in the bay."* + +(*Footnote. Dampier volume 1 page 462.) + +From this description I have little hesitation in settling Cape Leveque +to be the point he passed round. In commemoration, therefore, of his +visit, the name of Buccaneer's Archipelago was given to the cluster of +isles that fronts Cygnet Bay, which was so-called after the name of the +ship in which he sailed. The point within Cape Leveque was named Point +Swan after the Captain of the ship; and to a remarkable lump in the +centre of the Archipelago the name of Dampier's Monument was assigned. +During the last four days we have laid down upwards of eighty islands +upon the chart, and from the appearance of the land it is not improbable +but that there may be as many more behind them. + +Had we even recognised the bay above alluded to by Dampier before we +passed round Cape Leveque, we could not have anchored in it for the wind +was blowing strong from the northward, and a heavy swell was rolling, +which would have placed us in rather a dangerous situation, besides its +being exposed to easterly winds, which for the last two or three days had +blown very strong. During the time we had been among these islands, we +had not met with a single spot that we could have anchored upon without +the almost certain loss of our anchor; and the weather had been so very +thick and hazy that only the land in the vicinity of the vessel's +situation could be at all distinguished; and these disadvantages, added +to the great strength of the wind and the rapidity of the tides, had +materially prevented us from making ourselves better acquainted with the +place. It is remarkable that as soon as we passed round the Champagny +Isles, hazy weather commenced, and continued without intermission until +we were to the westward of Cape Leveque. The French complain of the same +thing; and they were so deceived by it that, in their first voyage, they +laid down Adele Island as a part of the main, when it is only a sandy +island about two or three miles long. No natives were seen on any of the +islands but there were many large smokes on the horizon at the back of +Cygnet Bay. + +We were now beginning to feel the effects of this fatiguing duty. +One-fourth of the people who kept watch were ill with bilious or feverish +attacks, and we had never been altogether free from sickness since our +arrival upon the coast. Mr. Montgomery's wound was, however, happily +quite healed, and Mr. Roe had also returned to his duty; but Mr. +Cunningham, who had been confined to the vessel since the day we arrived +in Careening Bay, was still upon the sick list. Our passage up the east +coast, the fatigues of watering and wooding at Prince Regent's River, and +our constant harassing employment during the examination of the coast +between Hanover Bay and Cape Leveque, had produced their bad effects upon +the constitutions of our people. Every means were taken to prevent +sickness: preserved meats were issued two days in the week in lieu of +salt provisions; and this diet, with the usual proportions of lemon-juice +and sugar, proved so good an anti-scorbutic that, with a few trifling +exceptions, no case of scurvy occurred. Our dry provisions had suffered +much from rats and cockroaches; but this was not the only way these +vermin annoyed us, for, on opening a keg of musket ball cartridges, we +found, out of 750 rounds, more than half the number quite destroyed, and +the remainder so injured as to be quite useless. + +August 21. + +The following day we made very little progress, from light winds in the +morning and a dead calm the whole of the evening. At sunset we anchored +at about four miles from the shore, in seventeen fathoms sandy ground. + +During the afternoon we were surrounded by an immense number of whales, +leaping out of the water and thrashing the sea with their fins; the noise +of which, from the calmness and perfect stillness of the air, was as loud +as the report of a volley of musketry. Some remorae were also swimming +about the vessel the whole day, and a snake about four feet long, of a +yellowish brown colour, rose up alongside, but instantly dived upon +seeing the vessel. + +August 22. + +High-water took place the next morning at twenty-six minutes after six +o'clock, at which time we got underweigh with a moderate land-breeze from +South-South-East, and steered to the southward along the shore. At noon +we were in latitude 16 degrees 30 minutes 19 seconds, Cape Borda bearing +South 42 1/2 degrees East. Soon after noon the sea-breeze sprung up from +the northward and, veering to North-West, carried us to the southward +along the coast which is low and sandy. At three o'clock we were abreast +of a point which was conjectured to be the land laid down by the French +as Emeriau Island; the name has therefore been retained, with the +alteration only of Point for Island. To the eastward of Cape Borda the +coast falls back and forms a bay, the bottom of which was visible from +our masthead and appeared to be composed of sand-downs. From Point +Emeriau the coast trends to the south-west, and preserves the same sandy +character. At five o'clock Lacepede Islands, which were seen by Captain +Baudin, were in sight to the westward; and at sunset we anchored in eight +fathoms, at about three leagues within them. These islands are three in +number, and appear to be solely inhabited by boobies and other sea-fowl: +they are low and sandy and all slightly crowned with a few shrubby +bushes; the reef that encompasses them seemed to be of great extent. + +August 23. + +The next day we were steering along the shore, and passed a sandy +projection which was named Cape Baskerville, after one of the midshipman +of the Bathurst. To the southward of Cape Baskerville the coast trends +in, and forms Carnot Bay; it then takes a southerly direction. It is here +that Tasman landed, according to the following extract from Dalrymple's +Papua: "In Hollandia Nova, in 17 degrees 12 minutes South (Longitude 121 +degrees, or 122 degrees East) Tasman found a naked, black people, with +curly hair, malicious and cruel; using for arms, bows and arrows, +hazeygaeys and kalawaeys. They once came to the number of fifty, double +armed, dividing themselves into two parties, intending to have surprised +the Dutch, who had landed twenty-five men; but the firing of guns +frightened them so, that they fled. Their proas are made of the bark of +trees; their coast is dangerous; there are few vegetables; the people use +no houses." + +At noon our latitude was 17 degrees 13 minutes 29 seconds. At four +o'clock we were abreast of Captain Baudin's Point Coulomb, which M. De +Freycinet describes to be the projection at which the Red Cliffs +commence. The interior is here higher than to the northward, and +gradually rises, at the distance of eight miles from the shore, to wooded +hills, and bears a more pleasing and verdant appearance than we have seen +for some time past; but the coast still retains the same sandy and +uninviting character. During the afternoon we had but a light sea-breeze +from the westward; and at sunset the anchor was dropped in thirteen +fathoms fine soft sand, at about six miles from the shore. Large flocks +of boobies flew over the vessel at sunset, directing their course towards +the reefs of Lacepede Islands, and in the direction of the Whale Bank, +which, according to the French chart of this part, lies in the offing to +the westward. As no island was noticed by us in the position assigned to +Captain Baudin's Carnot Island, the bay to the southward of Cape +Baskerville has received that name. The smokes of fires have been noticed +at intervals of every four or five miles along the shore, from which it +may be inferred that this part of the coast is very populous. Captain +Dampier saw forty Indians together, on one of the rocky islands to the +eastward of Cape Leveque, and, in his quaint style, gives the subjoined +interesting account of them: + +"The inhabitants of this country are the miserablest people in the world. +The Hodmadods of Monomatapa, though a nasty people, yet for wealth are +gentlemen to these; who have no houses, and skin garments, sheep, +poultry, and fruits of the earth, ostrich eggs, etc., as the Hodmadods +have: and setting aside their human shape, they differ but little from +brutes. They are tall, straight-bodied, and thin, with small, long limbs. +They have great heads, round foreheads, and great brows. Their eye-lids +are always half closed, to keep the flies out of their eyes; they being +so troublesome here, that no fanning will keep them from coming to one's +face; and without the assistance of both hands to keep them off, they +will creep into one's nostrils, and mouth too, if the lips are not shut +very close; so that from their infancy, being thus annoyed with these +insects, they do never open their eyes as other people; and therefore +they cannot see far, unless they hold up their heads, as if they were +looking at somewhat over them. + +"They have great bottle-noses, pretty full lips, and wide mouths. The two +fore-teeth of their upper jaw are wanting in all of them, men and women, +old and young; whether they draw them out, I know not: neither have they +any beards. They are long-visaged, and of a very unpleasant aspect, +having no one graceful feature in their faces. Their hair is black, short +and curled, like that of the negroes; and not long and lank like the +common Indians. The colour of their skins, both of their faces and the +rest of their body, is coal-black, like that of the negroes of Guinea.* + +(*Footnote. The natives of Hanover Bay, with whom we communicated, were +not deprived of their front teeth, and wore their beards long; they also +differed from the above description in having their hair long and curly. +Dampier may have been deceived in this respect, and from the use that +they make of their hair, by twisting it up into a substitute for thread, +they had probably cut it off close, which would give them the appearance +of having woolly hair like the negro.) + +"They have no sort of clothes, but a piece of the rind of a tree tied +like a girdle about their waists, and a handful of long grass, or three +or four small green boughs full of leaves, thrust under their girdle, to +cover their nakedness. + +"They have no houses, but lie in the open air without any covering; the +earth being their bed, and the heaven their canopy. Whether they cohabit +one man to one woman, or promiscuously, I know not; but they do live in +companies, twenty or thirty men, women, and children together. Their only +food is a small sort of fish, which they get by making weirs of stone +across little coves or branches of the sea; every tide bringing in the +small fish, the there leaving them for a prey to these people, who +constantly attend there to search for them at low water. This small fry I +take to be the top of their fishery: they have no instruments to catch +great fish, should they come; and such seldom stay to be left behind at +low water: nor could we catch any fish with our hooks and lines all the +while we lay there. In other places at low water they seek for cockles, +mussels, and periwinkles. Of these shell-fish there are fewer still; so +that their chief dependence is upon what the sea leaves in their wares; +which, be it much or little, they gather up, and march to the places of +their abode. There the old people that are not able to stir abroad by +reason of their age, and the tender infants, wait their return; and what +Providence has bestowed on them, they presently broil on the coals, and +eat it in common. Sometimes they get as many fish as makes them a +plentiful banquet; and at other times they scarce get every one a taste; +but be it little or much that they get, every one has his part, as well +the young and tender, the old and feeble, who are not able to go abroad, +as the strong and lusty. When they have eaten they lie down till the next +low water, and then all that are able march out, be it night or day, rain +or shine, 'tis all one; they must attend the weirs, or else they must +fast; for the earth affords them no food at all. There is neither herb, +root, pulse, nor any sort of grain for them to eat, that we saw; nor any +sort of bird or beast that they can catch, having no instruments +wherewithal to do so. + +"I did not perceive that they did worship anything. These poor creatures +have a sort of weapon to defend their weir, or fight with their enemies, +if they have any that will interfere with their poor fishery. They did at +first endeavour with their weapons to frighten us, who, lying ashore, +deterred them from one of their fishing-places. Some of them had wooden +swords, others had a sort of lances. The sword is a piece of wood shaped +somewhat like a cutlass.* The lance is a long straight pole, sharp at one +end, and hardened afterwards by heat. I saw no iron, nor any sort of +metal; therefore it is probable they use stone hatchets, as some Indians +in America do, described in Chapter 4. + +(*Footnote. Probably a boomerang. See volume 1.) + +"How they get their fire I know not; but probably as Indians do, out of +wood. I have seen the Indians of Bon-Airy do it, and have myself tried +the experiment. They take a flat piece of wood that is pretty soft, and +make a small dent in one side of it, then they take another hard, round +stick, about the bigness of one's little finger, and sharpened at one end +like a pencil, they put that sharp end in the hole or dent of the flat +soft piece, and then rubbing or twirling the hard piece between the palm +of their hands, they drill the soft piece till it smokes, and at last +takes fire. + +"These people speak somewhat through the throat; but we could not +understand one word that they said. We anchored, as I said before, +January the 5th, and seeing men walking on the shore, we presently sent a +canoe to get some acquaintance with them; for we were in hopes to get +some provision among them. But the inhabitants, seeing our boat coming, +run away and hid themselves. We searched afterwards three days in hopes +to find their houses, but found none; yet we saw many places where they +had made fires. At last, being out of hopes to find their habitations, we +searched no farther; but left a great many toys ashore, in such places +where we thought they would come. In all our search we found no water, +but old wells on the sandy bays. + +"At last we went over to the islands, and there we found a great many of +the natives; I do believe there were forty on one island, men, women, and +children. The men on our first coming ashore, threatened us with their +lances and swords; but they were frightened by firing one gun, which we +fired purposely to scare them. The island was so small that they could +not hide themselves; but they were much disordered at our landing, +especially the women and children; for we went directly to their camp. +The lustiest of the women snatching up their infants ran away howling, +and the little children run after squeaking and bawling; but the men +stood still. Some of the women, and such people as could not go from us, +lay still by a fire, making a doleful noise, as if we had been coming to +devour them: but when they saw we did not intend to harm them, they were +pretty quiet, and the rest that fled from us at our first coming, +returned again. This their place of dwelling was only a fire, with a few +boughs before it, set up on the side the winds was of. + +"After we had been here a little while, the men began to be familiar, and +we clothed some of them, designing to have some service of them for it; +for we found some wells of water here, and intended to carry two or three +barrels of it aboard. But it being somewhat troublesome to carry to the +canoes, we thought to have made these men to have carried it for us, and +therefore we gave them some old clothes; to one an old pair of breeches, +to another a ragged shirt, to the third a jacket that was scarce worth +owning; which yet would have been very acceptable at some places where we +had been, and so we thought they might have been with these people. We +put them on them, thinking that this finery would have brought them to +work heartily for us; and our water being filled in small long barrels, +about six gallons in each, which were made purposely to carry water in, +we brought these our new servants to the wells, and put a barrel on each +of their shoulders for them to carry to the canoe. But all the signs we +could make were to no purpose, for they stood like statues, without +motion, but grinned like so many monkeys, staring one upon another; for +these poor creatures seem not accustomed to carry burdens; and I believe +that one of our ship-boys of ten years old would carry as much as one of +them. So we were forced to carry our water ourselves, and they very +fairly put the clothes off again, and laid them down, as if clothes were +only to work in. I did not perceive that they had any great liking to +them at first, neither did they seem to admire anything that we had. + +"At another time our canoe being among these islands seeking for game, +espied a drove of these men swimming from one island to another; for they +have no boats, canoes, or bark-logs. They took four of them, and brought +them aboard; two of them were middle-aged, the other two were young men +about eighteen or twenty years old. To these we gave boiled rice, and +with it turtle and manatee boiled. They did greedily devour what we gave +them, but took no notice of the ship, or any thing in it, and when they +were set on land again, they ran away as fast as they could. At our first +coming, before we were acquainted with them, or they with us, a company +of them who lived on the main, came just against our ship, and standing +on a pretty high bank, threatened us with their swords and lances, by +shaking them at us: at last the captain ordered the drum to be beaten, +which was done of a sudden with much vigour, purposely to scare the poor +creatures. They hearing the noise, ran away as fast as they could drive; +and when they ran away in haste, they would cry gurry, gurry, speaking +deep in the throat. Those inhabitants also that live on the main would +always run away from us; yet we took several of them. For, as I have +already observed, they had such bad eyes, that they could not see us till +we came close to them. We did always give them victuals, and let them go +again, but the islanders, after our first time of being among them, did +not stir for us."* + +(*Footnote. Dampier volume 1 page 464 et seq.) + +At this anchorage we perceived very little rise and fall of tide, and the +flood and ebb both set to the northward, this was also the case at our +anchorage within the Lacepede Islands. At four o'clock the next morning a +strong south-easterly breeze sprang up, and moderated again before we +weighed; but no sooner were we under sail than it freshened again, and, +at half-past five o'clock, blew so strong as to oblige our double reefing +the topsails, which had not been done for many weeks before. At noon the +wind fell, and was very calm, at which time our latitude observed was 17 +degrees 36 minutes 38 seconds. The highest part of the land bore North 70 +1/2 degrees East, south of which a sandy point, supposed to be Captain +Baudin's Cape Boileau, bore South 87 degrees East; and a smoke, a little +to the northward of the masthead extreme, bearing South 42 degrees East +must be upon the land in the neighbourhood of Cape Latreille. + +Soon after noon the breeze veered round by South to West-South-West, and +enabled us to make some progress; at sunset we again anchored in thirteen +fathoms, soft sand, at six miles from a sandy projection of the main, +which we afterwards found to be the land called by Captain Baudin, +Gantheaume Island; the name has therefore been given to the point, for +there was no appearance of its being insulated. It bears a truly desolate +appearance, being nothing but ridges of bare white sand, scantily crowned +with a few shrubby bushes. + +Behind Point Gantheaume the land appeared to be formed by downs of very +white sand; and between this point and Cape Boileau is a bay, which at +first, from the direction of the flood stream at the anchorage, was +conjectured to be an inlet; but as the tide afterwards set to the +Northward and North-East, it was concluded to be occasioned by the stream +sweeping round the shores of the bay: according to the depth alongside +there was a rise of ten feet; after high-water the ebb set between North +1/2 West and North-North-East, at the rate of a quarter to three quarters +of a knot. + +During the whole day the horizon was occupied by haze, and produced a +very remarkable effect upon the land, which was so raised above the +horizon by refraction that many distant objects became visible that could +not otherwise have been seen. This mirage had been frequently observed by +us on various parts of the coast, but never produced so extraordinary an +effect as on the present occasion. The coastline appeared to be formed of +high chalky cliffs, crowned by a narrow band of woody hillocks; and the +land of Cape Villaret was so elevated as to be distinctly seen at the +distance of forty miles, whereas two days afterwards, the weather being +clear, it was not visible above the horizon for more than five leagues. +This state of the atmosphere caused a rapid evaporation during the day, +and as the evening approached a very copious dew commenced falling, which +by sunset was precipitated like a shower of rain. + +The next morning the land was again enveloped in haze, but at seven +o'clock it cleared off a little, and the coast was observed to trend +round Point Gantheaume to the south-east, but as we had last evening seen +it as far to the westward as South-West by South, we steered in the +latter direction under the idea of there being no opening to the +southward of the point, since the flood-tide flowed from it instead of +towards it, as it naturally would have done had there been any inlet of +consequence thereabout. + +As usual, we had been surrounded by whales, and large flights of boobies; +one of the latter lighted upon the deck this afternoon, and was easily +taken; it seemed to be the same bird (Pelecanus fiber) that frequents the +reefs upon the north and north-eastern coasts. Between sunrise and midday +our progress was much retarded by light south-easterly winds. At noon we +were in 17 degrees 51 minutes 45 seconds South: after which the +sea-breeze set in from South-South-West and South-West, and we steered to +the southward. The land was now visible considerably to the southward of +Point Gantheaume, but of a very low and sandy character; and as we +proceeded it came in sight to the South-South-West. At sunset we anchored +about five or six miles to the north of Captain Baudin's Cape Villaret; +the extreme, which was in sight a little without it, was doubtless his +Cape Latouche-Treville. From Cape Villaret the land trended to the +East-North-East, and was seen very nearly to join the shore at the back +of Point Gantheaume. + +The dew was precipitated as copiously this evening as the last, and the +sun set in a very dense bank; but the night was throughout fine. We now +began to experience a more considerable set of tide than we had found +since rounding Cape Leveque, for the rate was as much as a knot and a +half; but as the tides were neaped it only rose nine feet. + +At an anchorage near this spot, in the year 1699, Captain Dampier remarks +that the tide rose and fell five fathoms, and ran so strong that his +nun-buoy would not watch: but the French expedition, at an anchorage a +little to the southward, found the flood-tide to set South-South-East and +to rise only nine feet, the moon being then three days past her full. All +these particulars have been mentioned, since it is from the nature of the +tides that Captain Dampier formed his hypothesis of the existence of +either a strait or an opening between this and the Rosemary Islands; but +from our experience it would appear more probable that these great tides +are occasioned by the numerous inlets that intersect the coast between +this and Cape Voltaire; a further examination, however, can only prove +the real cause. + +August 26. + +At daylight (26th) we weighed with a light breeze from South-West, but +soon afterwards falling calm, and the tide drifting us to the South-East +the anchor was again dropped: ten minutes afterwards a land breeze from +East-South-East sprung up, to which we again weighed, but no sooner were +we under sail than we were enveloped in a thick mist that blew off the +land, where it had been collecting for the last two days. At eleven +o'clock the fog cleared away to seaward, but the land was screened from +our view until noon, when a sea breeze from west gradually dispersed the +fog, and the hillocky summit of Cape Latouche-Treville was seen, bearing +South 17 degrees West. At half-past twelve two rocky lumps on the land to +the westward of Cape Villaret were seen, and very soon afterwards the +hill on the cape made its appearance. Between Capes Villaret and +Latouche-Treville is a bay formed by very low sandy land, slightly +clothed with a stunted vegetation. The wind was now unfavourable for our +approaching the land, and after standing off to sea and then towards the +shore we anchored in thirteen fathoms coarse sand. + +At this anchorage we found a still greater difference in the tides than +was experienced the night preceding; the flood set South-East by East and +East-South-East; and the ebb from North-North-East round to +West-North-West; the rise was sixteen feet and a half, from which it +would appear probable that there must be some reason for so great an +indraught of water into the bight between Cape Villaret and Point +Gantheaume, which I have named Roebuck Bay, after the ship that Captain +Dampier commanded when he visited this part of the coast. + +As the wind now blew constantly from the South-West, or from some +southern direction, and caused our progress to be very slow and tedious; +and as the shore for some distance to the southward of Cape +Latouche-Treville had been partly seen by the French, I resolved upon +leaving the coast. Our water was also nearly expended, and our +provisions, generally, were in a very bad state; besides which the want +of a second anchor was so much felt that we dared not venture into any +difficulty where the appearance of the place invited a particular +investigation, on account of the exposed nature of the coast, and the +strength of the tides, which were now near the springs: upon every +consideration, therefore, it was not deemed prudent to rely any longer +upon the good fortune that had hitherto so often attended us in our +difficulties. + +August 27. + +Accordingly after weighing, we steered off by the wind, and directed our +course for Mauritius. + +1821. September 22. + +On the 22nd September at daylight after a passage of twenty-five days we +saw Roderigues, five or six leagues to the northward. In the evening a +fresh gale sprung up from the southward and we experienced very bad +weather: at noon of the 24th by our calculation we were seventy-three +miles due East from the north end of Mauritius and, having the day before +experienced a westerly current of one mile per hour, we brought to at +sunset for the night, from the fear of getting too near the shore. + +September 25. + +At daylight the following morning, being by the reckoning only +thirty-four miles to the eastward of the north end of the island, we bore +up for it; but the land, being enveloped in clouds, was not seen until +noon; we then found ourselves off the south-east end, instead of the +north point; having been set to the southward since yesterday noon at the +rate of three quarters of a mile an hour: in consequence of which we +determined upon going round the south side, and bore up for that purpose; +upon approaching the land we found another current setting us to the +north. + +September 26. + +The next morning at nine o'clock we passed round the Morne Brabant, the +south-west point of the island, but it was four o'clock before we reached +our anchorage (at a cable's length within the flag beacon at the entrance +of Port Louis) in fifteen fathoms mud; we were then visited by the Health +Officer, and afterwards by a boat from H.M. Ship Menai, which was at +anchor in the port. + +September 27. + +But as it was too late that evening to enter the brig was not moved until +the following morning, when she was warped in and moored head and stern +within the harbour. + +My wants were immediately made known to Captain Moresby, C.B. (of H.M. +Ship Menai) who directed the necessary repairs to be performed by the +carpenters of his ship; those articles which could not be supplied from +the Menai's stores were advertised for in the Mauritius Gazette, when the +most reasonable tenders were accepted. + +As many of the carpenters and caulkers of the Menai as could be spared +from their other occupations were daily employed upon our repairs; but +from her being put into quarantine and other unforeseen delays they were +not completed for nearly a month: our sails were repaired by the Menai's +sailmakers; and, as all our running rigging was condemned and we had very +little spare rope on board, her rope-makers made sufficient for our +wants. The greater part of our bread, being found in a damaged state from +leaks, was surveyed and condemned. + +Captain Flinders' account of Mauritius appears to have been drawn up with +much correctness and judgment, and is, even at the present day, so +descriptive of the island as to be considered, both by the English and +French residents of Port Louis, as the best that has yet been given to +the world. Many alterations and considerable improvements have however +taken place since his departure, and among the latter the improved system +of the culture of the sugar cane, and the introduction of modern +machinery into their mills, may be particularly mentioned. These have +been effected entirely by the political changes that have, since Captain +Flinders' captivity, taken place in the government of the island; and by +the example and exertions of the English, who possess very large +plantations, and indeed may be considered now as the principal +proprietors of the land. + +(*Footnote. It afforded me very great pleasure to hear the high terms in +which my late friend and predecessor Captain Flinders was spoken of by +the inhabitants of this island, and their general regret at his infamous +detention. His friend M. Pitot had lately died, but I met many French +gentlemen who were acquainted with him. General Decaen, the governor, was +so much disliked by the inhabitants that Captain Flinders gained many +friends at his expense who would not otherwise have troubled themselves +about him; and this circumstance probably went far towards increasing the +severity of the treatment he so unjustly received. An anecdote of him was +related to me by a resident of Port Louis, which, as it redounds to his +honour, I cannot lose the gratification of recording. + +When Captain Flinders was at the house of Madame d'Arifat in the district +of Plains Wilhelms, in which he was latterly permitted to reside upon his +parole, an opportunity of escaping from the island was offered to him by +the commander of a ship bound to India: it was urged to him by his +friends that, from the tyrannical treatment he had received and the +unjustifiable detention he was enduring, no parole to such a man as +General Decaen ought to be thought binding or prevent him from regaining +his liberty and embracing any opportunity of returning to his friends and +country. The escape was well planned, and no chance of discovery likely +to happen: the ship sailed from Port Louis, and at night, bringing to on +the leeward side of the island abreast of Captain Flinders' residence, +sent a boat to the appointed spot which was six miles only from Madame +d'Arifat's house; but after waiting until near daylight without the +captain making his appearance the boat returned to the vessel, which was +obliged to pursue her voyage to prevent suspicion. + +It is almost needless to add that Captain Flinders did not think it +consistent with his feelings to take advantage of the opportunity, nor to +effect his escape from imprisonment by a conduct so disgraceful to the +character of a British officer and to the honourable profession to which +he belonged.) + +For some years past coffee has entirely failed upon the island and cotton +is seldom seen growing. The principal attention of the habitans appeared +to be given to the cultivation of the sugar cane and maize, both of which +had begun to produce an abundant return to the planters; the manihot is +also generally cultivated: but the dreadful effects of the hurricanes to +which this island is exposed render property of so precarious and +doubtful a tenure that nothing is secure until the season for these +destructive visitations is over; they last from the beginning of December +to the end of April and generally occur about the full of the moon, being +invariably preceded by an unsteady motion of the mercury in the +barometer. They are not always so violent as to be termed hurricanes: the +last experienced before our visit was merely a coup de vent, by which +very little damage was sustained.* + +(*Footnote. In the month of January, 1824 this unfortunate island was +again visited and laid waste by a tremendous hurricane that did very +considerable damage, and has in a great measure destroyed the prosperous +state which the island was beginning to arrive at from the previous long +absence of this dreadful visitation.) + +The town of Port Louis which is at the north-west, or leeward, side of +the island, is built at the extremity of an amphitheatre of low land, +backed in by a high and precipitous range, upon which Peter Botte and the +Pouce are conspicuous features. The streets are laid out at rightangles, +the principal of which lead from the Chaussee to the Champ de Mars, a +plot of grassy land about half a mile square that intervenes between the +town and the hills. This is the promenade, the drive, the racecourse, +and, in fact, the principal resort for the inhabitants. It is skirted by +houses and gardens and is a valuable acquisition to the town. The +Chaussee and other streets are well furnished with useful shops of which +those of the Tinman, the Druggist, and the Conservateur et Patissier, are +the most numerous. + +The houses, generally of wood, are irregularly built, and far from being +elegant in their appearance; those however that have been lately +constructed by our countrymen have already given the place an appearance +of solidity that it could not boast of before, and several substantial +stone dwellings and stones have lately been erected. The roads for seven +or eight miles out of the town, leading to Pamplemousses, to Plains +Wilhelms and to Moca districts, are very good and are kept in repair +partly by Malabar convicts from India; but travelling beyond that +distance is performed in palanquins which four bearers will carry, at a +steady pace, at the rate of six miles per hour. + +At the time of our visit there were few fruits ripe; but when we were +about to sail the mango of delicious flavour began to be common; besides +which there were coconuts, guavas, papaws, grapes, the letchy (or +let-chis, a Chinese fruit) and some indifferent pineapples. The ship's +company were supplied daily with fresh beef and vegetables. The latter +were procured in abundance at the bazaar and were exceedingly fine, +particularly carrots and cabbages of an unusually large size and fine +flavour. Bullocks are imported into the island from Madagascar, in which +trade there are two vessels constantly engaged during the fine season. + +Horses are very scarce; they are imported from the Cape of Good Hope and +fetch a high price: a cargo of a hundred and seventy-seven mules arrived +from Buenos Ayres while we were at Port Louis, which, on being sold by +auction, averaged each one hundred and eighty dollars. To encourage the +importation of these useful animals a premium of five dollars is offered +by the government for every mule that is brought alive to the island. + +The circulating medium was principally of paper but bore a very great +depreciation; the premium upon bills of exchange upon Europe, at the time +of our departure, was as much as 66 to 76 per cent, and upon silver coin +there was a depreciation of 45 per cent. + +On the voyage to this place three charts of the north-west coast were +reduced and copied by Mr. Roe and were forwarded to the Admiralty by H.M. +Sloop Cygnet, together with a brief account of our voyage from the time +that we parted company with the Dick, off Cape Van Diemen. + +No observations were taken at this place excepting for ascertaining the +rates of the chronometers, and for the variation and dip of the magnetic +needle: the former being 12 degrees 31 minutes West, and the latter 51 +degrees 42 minutes 1 second. The situation of the observatory has been +long since fixed by the Abbe de la Caille in 20 degrees 10 minutes South +latitude, and 57 degrees 29 minutes East longitude. + +I cannot conclude this very brief account of our visit to Mauritius +without expressing my acknowledgments for the civilities and hospitality +we received from our countrymen at Port Louis, particularly from His +Excellency Sir Robert T. Farquhar, Bart., who so long and ably presided +as Governor of the Island; and for the valuable assistance rendered me in +our re-equipment by Captain Fairfax Moresby, C.B., of H.M. Ship Menai, +for which the expedition I had the honour to command is under more than a +common professional obligation. + + + +CHAPTER 3. +Departure from Port Louis. +Voyage to the South-west Coast of New Holland. +Anchor in King George the Third's Sound. +Occurrences there. +Visited by the Natives. +Our intercourse with them. +Descriptions of their weapons and other implements. +Vocabulary of their language. +Meteorological and other observations. +Edible plants. +Testaceous productions. + +1821. November 10. + +On the 10th November we were ready for sea. + +November 15. + +But, from various delays, did not quit the port until the 15th. At +midnight we passed round the Morne Brabant, and the next evening at +sunset saw the high land of Bourbon: for the first two days we had +south-east winds and upon reaching the parallel of 25 degrees, the winds +became light and baffling with calms. + +November 21. + +But as we advanced more to the southward they gradually veered to east +and north-east, and afterwards to north-west, with very fine weather. + +November 28. + +We did not get out of the influence of these variable winds until the +28th when we were at noon in latitude 32 degrees 47 minutes and longitude +65 degrees 5 minutes; after which we encountered westerly winds and rough +weather. On the whole we had a very quick passage to the coast of New +Holland; and for the last week were expedited by a strong westerly gale +without encountering any accident or the occurrence of any circumstance +worth recording. + +1821. December 23. + +On the 23rd December at daylight the land about Cape Chatham was in +sight, and a course was directed to the eastward for King George's Sound; +where it was my intention to complete our wood and water previous to +commencing the examination of the west coast. At four o'clock in the +afternoon we hauled round Bald Head and, entering the Sound, soon +afterwards anchored at one mile from the entrance of Princess Royal +Harbour. + +December 24. + +Having at our former visit re-fitted at Oyster Harbour, I wished on this +occasion to try Princess Royal Harbour; but as I was both unacquainted +with its entrance, as well as its convenience for our purposes, excepting +from Captain Flinders' account, I hoisted the boat out early the next +morning, to make the necessary examination before the sea-breeze +commenced. Whilst the boat was preparing a distant shouting was heard, +and upon our looking attentively towards the entrance several Indians +were seen sitting on the rocks on the north head hallooing and waving to +us, but no further notice than a return of their call was taken until +after breakfast, when we pulled towards them in the whale-boat. As we +drew near the shore they came down to receive us and appeared from their +gestures to invite our landing; but in this they were disappointed, for, +after a little vociferation and gesture on both sides, we pulled into the +harbour, whilst they walked along the beach abreast the boat. As the +motions of every one of them were attentively watched it was evident that +they were not armed; each wore a kangaroo-skin cloak over his left +shoulder that covered the back and breast but left the right arm exposed. +Upon reaching the spot which Captain Flinders occupied in the +Investigator I found that the brig could not anchor near enough to the +shore to carry on our different operations without being impeded by the +natives, even though they should be amicably disposed. Our plan was +therefore altered and, as the anchorage formerly occupied by the Mermaid +in the entrance of Oyster Harbour would be on all accounts more +convenient for our purposes, I determined upon going thither. + +By this time the natives had reached that part of the beach where the +boat was lying, and were wading through the water towards us; but as we +had no wish at present to communicate with them, for fear that, by +refusing anything we had in the boat, for which their importunity would +perhaps be very great, a quarrel might be occasioned, we pulled off into +deeper water where we remained for five minutes parleying with them, +during which they plainly expressed their disappointment and +mortification at our want of confidence. Upon making signs for fresh +water, which they instantly understood, they called out to us "badoo, +badoo," and pointed to a part of the bay where Captain Flinders has +marked a rivulet. Badoo, in the Port Jackson language, means water; it +was thought probable that they must have obtained it from some late +visitors; and in this opinion we were confirmed, for the word kangaroo +was also familiar to them.* + +(*Footnote. The San Antonio, merchant brig, the vessel that joined our +company during our passage up the east coast, visited this port in +December 1820 and communicated with the natives; it is therefore probable +that the above words were obtained from that vessel's crew.) + +Upon our return towards the entrance the natives walked upon the beach +abreast the boat, and kept with her until we pulled out of the entrance, +when they resumed their former station upon the rocks and we returned on +board. + +Upon reaching the brig, the anchor was weighed, and with a fresh +sea-breeze from South-East we soon reached Oyster Harbour, but in +crossing the bar the vessel took the ground in eleven and a half feet +water, and it was some time before we succeeded in heaving her over, and +reaching the anchorage we had occupied at our last visit. Whilst warping +in, the natives, who had followed the vessel along the sandy beach that +separates the two harbours, were amusing themselves near us in striking +fish with a single barbed spear, in which sport they appeared to be +tolerably successful. As soon as we passed the bar three other natives +made their appearance on the east side, who, upon the boat going to that +shore to lay out the kedges, took their seats in it as unceremoniously as +a passenger would in a ferry-boat; and upon its returning to the brig, +came on board, and remained with us all the afternoon, much amused with +everything they saw, and totally free from timidity or distrust. Each of +our visitors was covered with a mantle of kangaroo-skin, but these were +laid aside upon their being clothed with other garments, with the novelty +of which they appeared greatly diverted. The natives on the opposite +shore seeing that their companions were admitted, were loudly vociferous +in their request to be sent for also; but unfortunately for them it was +the lee shore, so that no boat went near them; and as we did not wish to +be impeded by having so many on the deck at one time, their request was +not acceded to and by degrees they separated and retired in different +directions. + +As soon as the brig was secured two of our visitors went ashore, +evidently charged with some message from the other native, but as he +voluntarily remained on board nothing hostile was suspected; we therefore +landed and dug a hole three feet deep among the grass about two yards +above the highest tide-mark, for water; but it was found to be so highly +coloured and muddy as it flowed in, that other holes were dug in the sand +nearer the edge of the tide-mark, where it was also produced, and proved +to be of a much better taste, as well as clearer, from being filtered +through the sand. + +On examining the place of our former encampment, it was so much altered +from the rapid growth of vegetation that we could scarcely recognise its +situation. The stem of the casuarina on which the Mermaid's name and the +date of our visit had been carved was almost destroyed by fire; and the +inscription in consequence so nearly obliterated that the figures 1818, +and two or three letters alone remained visible. There was not the least +trace of our garden, for the space which it formerly occupied was covered +by three or four feet of additional soil, formed of sand and decayed +vegetable matter and clothed with a thicket of fine plants in full +flower, that would be much prized in any other place than where they +were. The initials of the names of some of our people were still very +perfect upon the stem of a large Banksia grandis which, from being +covered with its superb flowers, bore a magnificent and striking +appearance. + +After an absence of an hour our two friends returned, when it appeared +that they had been at their toilet, for their noses and faces had +evidently been fresh smeared over with red ochre, which they pointed out +to us as a great ornament; affording another proof that vanity is +inherent in human nature and not merely the consequence of civilisation. +They had however put off the garments with which we had clothed them and +resumed their mantles. + +Each brought a lighted fire-stick in his hand, intending, as we supposed, +to make a fire, and to pass the night near the vessel, in order to watch +our intentions and movements. + +On returning on board we desired the native who had remained behind to go +ashore to his companions, but it was with great reluctance that he was +persuaded to leave us. Whilst on board, our people had fed him +plentifully with biscuit, yams, pudding, tea, and grog, of which he ate +and drank as if he was half famished, and after being crammed with this +strange mixture and very patiently submitting his beard to the operation +of shaving, he was clothed with a shirt and a pair of trousers, and +christened Jack, by which name he was afterwards always called, and to +which he readily answered. As soon as he reached the shore, his +companions came to meet him to hear an account of what had transpired +during their absence, as well as to examine his new habiliments which, as +may be conceived, had effected a very considerable alteration in his +appearance, and at the same time that the change created much admiration +on the part of his companions, it raised him very considerably in his own +estimation. It was however a substitution that did not improve his +appearance; in fact he cut but a sorry figure in our eyes, in his +chequered shirt and tarry trousers, when standing amongst his companions, +with their long beards and kangaroo-skin mantles thrown carelessly over +their shoulders. + +Upon being accosted by his companions Jack was either sullen with them or +angry with us for sending him on shore, for without deigning to reply to +their questions he separated himself from them, and after watching us in +silence for some time, walked quietly and slowly away, followed at a +distance by his friends who were lost in wonder at what could have +happened to their sulky companion. The grog that he had been drinking had +probably taken effect upon his head and, although the quantity was very +trifling, he might have been a little stupefied. + +December 25. + +At daylight the following morning the natives had again collected on both +sides, and upon the jolly-boat's landing the people to examine the wells +Jack, having quite recovered his good humour, got into the boat and came +on board. The natives on the opposite side were vociferous to visit us, +and were holding long conversations with Jack, who explained everything +to them in a song, to which they would frequently exclaim in full chorus +the words "Cai, cai, cai, cai, caigh" which they always repeated when +anything was shown that excited their surprise. Finding we had no +intention of sending a boat for them they amused themselves in fishing. +Two of them were watching a small seal that, having been left by the tide +on the bank, was endeavouring to waddle towards the deep water; at last +one of the natives, fixing his spear in its throwing-stick, advanced very +cautiously and, when within ten or twelve yards, lanced it, and pierced +the animal through the neck, when the other instantly ran up and stuck +his spear into it also, and then beating it about the head with a small +hammer very soon despatched it. + +This event collected the whole tribe to the spot, who assisted in landing +their prize and washing the sand off the body; they then carried the +animal to their fire at the edge of the grass and began to devour it even +before it was dead. Curiosity induced Mr. Cunningham and myself to view +this barbarous feast and we landed about ten minutes after it had +commenced. The moment the boat touched the sand the natives, springing up +and throwing their spears away into the bushes, ran down towards us; and +before we could land had all seated themselves in the boat ready to go on +board, but they were obliged to wait whilst we landed to witness their +savage feast. On going to the place we found an old man seated over the +remains of the carcass, two-thirds of which had already disappeared; he +was holding a long strip of the raw flesh in his left hand, and tearing +it off the body with a sort of knife; a boy was also feasting with him +and both were too intent upon their breakfast to notice us or to be the +least disconcerted at our looking on. We however were very soon satisfied +and walked away perfectly disgusted with the sight of so horrible a +repast, and the intolerable stench occasioned by the effluvia that arose +from the dying animal, combined with that of the bodies of the natives +who had daubed themselves from head to foot with a pigment made of a red +ochreous earth mixed up with seal-oil. + +We then conveyed the natives, who had been waiting with great patience in +the boat for our return, to the vessel, and permitted them to go on +board. Whilst they remained with us Mr. Baskerville took a man from each +mess to the oyster-bank; here he was joined by an Indian carrying some +spears and a throwing-stick, but on Mr. Baskerville's calling for a +musket that was in the boat (to the use of which they were not strangers) +he laid aside his spears, which probably were only carried for the +purpose of striking fish, and assisted our people in collecting the +oysters. As soon as they had procured a sufficient quantity they returned +on board when, as it was breakfast time, our visitors were sent onshore, +highly pleased with their reception and with the biscuit and pudding +which the people had given them to eat. They were very attentive to the +mixture of a pudding, and a few small dumplings were made and given to +them, which they put on the bars of the fireplace but, being too +impatient to wait until they were baked, ate them in a doughy state with +much relish. + +Three new faces appeared on the east side, who were brought on board +after breakfast, and permitted to remain until dinner-time: one of them, +an old man, was very attentive to the sailmaker's cutting out a boat's +sail, and at his request was presented with all the strips that were of +no use. When it was completed a small piece of canvas was missing, upon +which the old man, being suspected of having secreted it, was slightly +examined, but nothing was found upon him; after this, while the people +were looking about the deck, the old rogue assisted in the search and +appeared quite anxious to find it; he however very soon walked away +towards another part of the deck and interested himself in other things. +This conduct appeared so suspicious that I sent the sailmaker to examine +the old man more closely, when the lost piece was found concealed under +his left arm, which was covered by the cloak he wore of kangaroo-skin. +This circumstance afforded me a good opportunity of showing them our +displeasure at so flagrant a breach of the confidence we had reposed in +them; I therefore went up to him and, assuming as ferocious a look as I +could, shook him violently by the shoulders. At first he laughed but +afterwards, when he found I was in earnest, became much alarmed: upon +which his two companions, who were both boys, wanted to go onshore; this +however was not permitted until I had made peace with the old man, and +put them all in good humour by feeding them heartily upon biscuit. The +two boys were soon satisfied; but the old man appeared ashamed and +conscious of his guilt; and although he was frequently afterwards with +us, yet he always hung down his head and sneaked into the background. + +During the day the people were employed about the rigging, and in the +evening before sunset the natives were again admitted on board for half +an hour. In the afternoon Mr. Montgomery went to Green Island and shot a +few parrakeets and waterbirds, some of which he gave to the natives after +explaining how they had been killed, which of course produced great +applause. + +December 26. + +The next day was employed in wooding and watering, in which the natives, +particularly our friend Jack, assisted. We had this day twenty-one +natives about us and among them were five strangers. They were not +permitted to come on board until four o'clock in the afternoon, excepting +Jack, who was privileged to come and go as he liked, which, since it did +not appear to create any jealousy among his companions, enabled us to +detain him as a hostage for Mr. Cunningham's safety, who was busily +engaged in adding to his collections from the country in the vicinity of +the vessel. + +In the evening Jack climbed the rigging as high as the top masthead, much +to the amusement of his companions but to the mortification of Bundell +who had never taken courage to mount so high. + +The waterholes yielded about a ton of water a day; but a stream was found +in the sandy bay to the eastward of the entrance, running over the beach, +which we used when the holes were emptied of their contents; the latter +were however preferred, since our people worked at them under an +immediate protection from the vessel's deck. Near the stream we found +some felled trees and the staves of a cask.* + +(*Footnote. At this place the San Antonio merchant brig wooded and +watered in 1820.) + +December 27 to 28. + +Our watering continued to proceed without molestation from the natives; +the number of whom had increased to twenty-nine, besides some whom we had +before seen that were now absent. During the afternoon of the 28th the +wind freshened from south-west and blew so strong as to cause a +considerable swell where we were lying; but towards sunset the breeze +moderated and the natives were again admitted on board; there were, +however, only eleven, for the rest, having worn out their patience, had +walked away. + +They were now quite tractable and never persisted in doing anything +against our wishes. The words "by and by" were so often used by us in +answer to their cau-wah, or "come here," that their meaning was perfectly +understood and always satisfied the natives, since we made it a strict +rule never to disappoint them of anything that was promised, an attention +to which is of the utmost importance in communicating with savages. Every +evening that they visited us they received something, but as a biscuit +was the most valuable present that could be made, each native was always +presented with one upon his leaving the vessel; during the day they were +busily occupied in manufacturing spears, knives, and hammers, for the +evening's barter; and when they came in the morning they generally +brought a large collection, which their wives had probably made in their +absence. + +December 29. + +On the 29th we had completed our holds with wood and water and prepared +to leave the harbour. In the morning there was thirteen feet water at the +buoy which had been moored on the deepest part of the bar, the depth of +which, during the two preceding days, had been frequently sounded. + +In the evening we were visited by twenty-four natives among whom was our +friend Jack. When they found us preparing to go away they expressed great +sorrow at our departure, particularly Jack, who was more than usually +entertaining but kept, as he always did, at a distance from his +companions and treated them with the greatest disdain. When the time came +to send them on shore he endeavoured to avoid accompanying them and as +usual was the last to go into the boat; instead however of following +them, he went into a boat on the opposite side of the brig that was +preparing to go for a load of water, evidently expecting to be allowed to +return in her. + +This friendly Indian had become a great favourite with us all and was +allowed to visit us whenever he chose and to do as he pleased; he always +wore the shirt that had been given to him on the first day and +endeavoured to imitate everything that our people were employed upon; +particularly the carpenter and the sailmaker at their work: he was the +only native who did not manufacture spears for barter, for he was +evidently convinced of the superiority of our weapons and laughed +heartily whenever a bad and carelessly-made spear was offered to us for +sale: for the natives, finding we took everything, were not very +particular in the form or manufacturer of the articles they brought to +us. He was certainly the most intelligent native of the whole tribe and +if we had remained longer would have afforded us much information of this +part of the country; for we were becoming more and more intelligible to +each other every day: he frequently accompanied Mr. Cunningham in his +walks and not only assisted him in carrying his plants but occasionally +added to the specimens he was collecting. + +December 30. + +The next morning (30th) the anchors were weighed and the warps laid out, +but from various delays we did not reach a birth sufficiently near the +bar to make sail from, until the water had fallen too much to allow our +passing it: the brig was therefore moored in the stream of the tide. + +At eight o'clock the natives came down as usual and were much +disappointed in finding the brig moved from her former place. After the +vessel was secured the launch and jolly-boat were sent to the +watering-place in the outer bay, where the eastern party were assembled +with a bundle of spears, throwing-sticks, and knives, for barter. Upon +the return of the boats our friend Jack came on board and appeared +altogether so attached to us that some thoughts were entertained of +taking him on our voyage up the west coast if he was inclined to go. As +he did not want for intelligence there was not much difficulty in making +him understand by signs that he might go with us, to which he appeared to +assent without the least hesitation, but that it might be satisfactorily +ascertained whether he really wished to go it was intimated to him that +he should tell his companions of this new arrangement. Mr. Bedwell +accordingly took him on shore, and purchased all the spears the natives +had brought down, that, in case they should feel angry at his leaving +them, they might have no weapons to do any mischief with. + +When Jack landed he instantly informed his companions of his intended +departure and pointed to the sea, to show whither he was going, but his +friends received the intelligence with the most careless indifference, +their attention being entirely engrossed with the barter that was going +on. After the spears were purchased Mr. Bedwell got into the boat +followed by Jack, who seated himself in his place with apparent +satisfaction. + +While Mr. Bedwell was purchasing the spears and other weapons Jack +brought him a throwing-stick that he had previously concealed behind a +bush and sold it to him for a biscuit; but after he had embarked and the +boat was leaving the shore he threw it among his companions, thereby +affording us a most satisfactory proof of the sincerity of his +intentions. + +About an hour after he had returned and I had determined upon taking him, +the breeze freshened and raised a short swell which, causing a slight +motion, affected our friend's head so much that he came to me and, +touching his tongue and pointing to the shore, intimated his wish to +speak to the natives. He was therefore immediately landed and Mr. +Baskerville, after purchasing some spears and waiting a few minutes, +prepared to return on board: upon getting into the boat he looked at our +volunteer but Jack, having had a taste of sea-sickness, shook his head +and hung back; he was therefore left on shore. Upon the boat's leaving +the beach the natives dispersed for the night but Jack, as usual, was +perceived to separate himself from his companions and to walk away +without exchanging a word with them. + +December 31. + +The weather at daylight the next morning (31st) was too unsettled and the +breeze too strong from the westward to think of moving from the +anchorage. Jack and another native were down on the rocks at an early +hour, hallooing and waving to us, and at eight o'clock some natives +appeared on the opposite shore with spears and knives to barter, but we +had no communication with them. + +During our visit we have obtained from these people about one hundred +spears, thirty throwing-sticks, forty hammers, one hundred and fifty +knives, and a few hand-clubs, the value of each being at from half to +one-eighth of a biscuit. We saw no fizgig, shield, nor boomerang; it is +probable that they may have such weapons but did not produce them from a +dislike at parting with them; but the knives, spears, and hammers which +did not require much labour to manufacture were always ready for barter, +particularly the first, but the greater part were, like Peter Pindar's +razors, only made for sale. + +Altogether we saw about forty natives of whom ten were boys: they were in +most respects similar to their neighbours, having the same long curly +hair and slight figure; they did not appear to be a navigating tribe, for +we saw no canoes, nor did we observe any trees in the woods with the bark +stripped, of which material they are usually made; and, from the timid +manner they approached the water, it is more than probable that they are +not much accustomed even to swimming. Captain Flinders is mistaken in +stating that the natives of this place do not use the throwing-stick; but +it is probable they did not produce those instruments to him, for fear of +being deprived of them, for it required much persuasion on our part to +prevail upon them to let us have any; they were much more ingeniously +formed than others that we had previously seen, and different also, in +having a small sharp-edged shell, or piece of quartz, fixed in a gummy +knob at the handle, for the purpose of scraping the points of the spears: +the shaft is broad, smooth and flat. Some of these throwing-sticks, or +mearas, were three inches broad and two feet six inches long. See Woodcut +3. + +The spears are very slender, and are made from a species of leptospermum +that grows abundantly in swampy places; they are from nine to ten feet +long and barbed with a piece of hard wood, fastened on by a ligature of +bark gummed over; we saw none that were not barbed, or had not a hole at +the end to receive the hooked point of the meara. Woodcut 4 shows the +method by which this weapon is propelled. + +The hammer, or kaoit, appears to be used only for the purpose of breaking +open shellfish, and killing seals and other animals by striking them on +the head; for it has no sharpened edge to be used as a chopping or +cutting instrument; the handle is from twelve to fifteen inches long, +having one end scraped to a sharp point, and on each side at the other +end two pieces of hard stone fixed and cemented by a mass of gum, which, +when dry, is almost as hard as the stone itself; the hammer is about one +pound weight. See Woodcut 5. + +The knife, or taap, is perhaps the rudest instrument of the sort that +ever was made; the handle is about twelve inches long, scraped to a point +like the hammer, and has, at the other end, three or four splinters of +sharp-edged quartz stuck on in a row with gum, thus forming a sort of +ragged instrument. See Woodcut 6. It is thus used: after they have put +within their teeth a sufficient mouthful of seal's flesh, the remainder +is held in their left hand, and, with the taap in the other, they saw +through, and separate the flesh.* Every native carries one or more of +these knives in his belt besides the hammer which is also an +indispensable instrument with them. + +(*Footnote. A very good idea may be obtained of the manner in which these +taaps are used, by referring to Captain Lyon's drawing of the Esquimaux +sledges at page 290 of Parry's Second Voyage: the natives of King +George's Sound however hold the knife underhanded, and cut upwards.) + +We did not perceive that these people acknowledged any chief or superior +among them; the two parties that collected daily on the opposite sides of +the harbour evidently belonged to the same tribe for they occasionally +mixed with each other. Their habitations were probably scattered about in +different parts for when the natives went away for the night they +separated into several groups, not more than three or four going +together, and these generally returned in company the next morning by the +same path which they had taken when they left us: they also arrived at +different times and some evidently came from a distance greater than +others, for they were later in arriving and always took their leave at an +earlier hour. + +With the exception of one or two petty thefts besides the one +above-mentioned of which serious notice was taken, and an attempt to +steal a hat from one of the boys when he was by himself on the Oyster +Bank, our communication with these people was carried on in the most +friendly manner. Mr. Cunningham was, to their knowledge, on shore every +day attended only by his servant, but none, excepting Jack, followed him +after they had ascertained the intention of his walk, and observed the +care that he took to avoid going near their habitations, for which they +evinced a great dislike; one of their encampments was about a mile and a +half off but, curious as we naturally were to witness their mode of +living and to see the females and children of their tribe, we never +succeeded in persuading them to allow us to gratify our curiosity. On one +occasion it was necessary to lay a kedge anchor out in the direction of +their dwelling-place, and upon the boat's crew landing and carrying it +along the beach, the natives followed and intimated by signs that we +should not go that way; as soon however as the anchor was fixed and they +understood our intention, they assisted the people in carrying the hawser +to make fast to it. + +They were well-acquainted with the effects of a musket, although not the +least alarmed at having one fired off near them. Everything they saw +excited their admiration, particularly the carpenter's tools and our +clothes; but what appeared to surprise them above all other things was +the effect produced upon the flesh by a burning-glass, and of its causing +the explosion of a train of gunpowder. They perfectly understood that it +was from the sun that the fire was produced, for on one occasion when +Jack requested me to show it to two or three strangers whom he had +brought to visit us I explained to him that it could not be done while +the sun was clouded; he then waited patiently for five minutes until the +sunshine reappeared, when he instantly reminded me of the removal of the +obstacle. He was a good deal surprised at my collecting the rays of the +sun upon my own hand, supposing that I was callous to the pain, from +which he had himself before shrunk; but as I held the glass within the +focus distance, no painful sensation was produced; after which he +presented me his own arm, and allowed me to burn it as long as I chose to +hold the glass, without flinching in the least, which, with greater +reason, equally astonished us in our turn. + +They were all furnished, as has been before mentioned, with a cloak of +kangaroo-skin, which is always taken off and spread under them when they +lie down. Their hair was dressed in different ways; sometimes it was +clotted with red pigment and seal oil, clubbed up behind, and bound round +with a fillet of opossum-fur, spun into a long string, in which +parrot-feathers, escalop shells, and other ornaments being fixed in +different fanciful ways, gave the wearer a warlike appearance. + +Their faces and sometimes their whole bodies were daubed over with a +mixture of seal oil and red pigment that caused a most disgusting +effluvia; but the only colouring matter that our friend Jack used, after +his acquaintance with us, was the carpenter's chalk, which he thought +particularly ornamental. + +Bracelets of dog-tails or kangaroo-skin were commonly worn and one had +several escalop shells hanging about him, the noise of which, as they +jingled together, he probably thought musical. + +The noodle-bul or belt in which they carry their hammer and knife is +manufactured from the fur of the opossum spun into a small yarn like +worsted; it is tightly bound at least three or four hundred times round +the stomach; very few however possessed this ornament; and it is not +improbable that the natives who had their hair clubbed, those that wore +belts, and the one who was ornamented with shells, held some particular +offices in the tribe, which it would be difficult for strangers to +discover. + +During our communication with these people the following vocabulary of +their language was obtained, of which some of the words are compared with +those recorded by Captain Flinders: these last are inserted in the third +column. + +COLUMN 1: ENGLISH WORD. +COLUMN 2: NATIVE WORD. +COLUMN 3: NATIVE WORD RECORDED BY CAPTAIN FLINDERS. + +A goose : Caangan. +A dog : Tiara. +To eat biscuit : Yamungamari (doubtful). +A seal : Baallot. +The sun : Djaat : Djaat. +Water : Badoo (this is a Port Jackson word, and has been probably +obtained from other visitors). +Beard : Nyanuck. +Cheek : Nyaluck. +Mouth : Tatah. +Teeth : Orlock : Yeaal. +Tongue : Darlin, or Thalib. +Arm : Wormuck. +Nails : Pera (strong accent on the r.) +Finger : Mai, plural Maih. +Toe : Kea, plural Kean. +Finger nails : Peramaih. +Toe nails : Perakean. +Nipple : Beep : Bpep. +Belly : Cobbull, or kopul : Kobul. +Posteriors : Wallakah : Wallakah. +Kangaroo : Beango. +A frog : Toke. +Spear-throwing-stick : Meara. +Hammer : Kaoit. +Eye : Meal. +Navel : Beil. +Shoulder : Kadyaran. +Shall I go on board? : Bokenyenna. +Elbow : Gnoyong. +Scars on the body : Naamburn. +Firewood : Gogorr. +A spear : Namberr, or pegero. +A knife : Taap. +Rope (on board) : Nearbango. +Wood (Plank) : Yandari. +Lips : Tar : Urluck. +Throat : Wurt. +Thighs : Dtoual : Dtoual. +Knee : Wonat : Wonat. +Leg : Maat : Maat. +Foot : Jaan, or bangul : Jaan. +Ear : Duong : Duong. +Nose : Tarmul : Moil. +Head : Maka : Kaat. +A porpoise : Nordock. +Woman : Paydgero, or coman (doubtful). +Hair of the head : Kaat : Kaat jou. +Come here : Bulloco. +Shoulder : Djadan. +Musket : Puelar (doubtful). +Gum : Perin. +Tomorrow : Manioc (doubtful.) +Surprise or admiration : Caicaicaicaicaigh. The last word lengthened out +with the breath. +A hawk : Barlerot. +A shark, or shark's tail : Margit. +Belt worn round the stomach : Noodlebul. +Back : Goong. +A particular fish : Wallar, or wallat. + +NAMES OF THE NATIVES. + +Yallapool (a little boy). +Ureeton, Wytumba : boys. +Marinbibba. +Coolbun. +Nakinna. +Malka. +Uderra. +Kynoora. +Hanbarrah. +Bawarrang. +Monga. +Flooreena. +Coolyarong. +Mogril (a young man).* + +(*Footnote. The above names were obtained at a subsequent visit on our +return to England the following year.) + +The winds during our stay performed two or three revolutions of the +compass but they partook chiefly of the character of sea and +land-breezes: during the night and early part of the morning the wind was +usually light from the northward and at ten o'clock, gradually dying +away, was succeeded by a wind from the sea, generally from South-West or +South-East; this sea-breeze occasionally blew fresh until four o'clock in +the evening when it would gradually diminish with the setting sun to a +light air. + +The barometrical column ranged between 29.75 and 30.22 inches; a fall of +the mercury preceded a westerly wind, and a rise predicted it from the +South-East: when it stood at thirty inches we had sea-breezes from south +with fine weather. The easterly winds were dry; westerly ones the +reverse. The moisture of the atmosphere, for want of a better hygrometer, +was ascertained with tolerable precision by the state of a small piece of +sea-weed, the weight of which varied according to the dryness or moisture +of the atmosphere between one and three scruples. I found it on all +occasions extremely sensible, and very often to predict a change of wind +much sooner than the barometer. + +Fahrenheit's thermometer ranged between 64 and 74 degrees, but the usual +extremes were between 66 and 70 degrees. + +1822. January 1. + +During the day of the 1st of January the depth of the bar was frequently +sounded but as there was not more than ten feet and a half water upon it +we were necessarily detained at the anchorage. + +January 2. + +On the following morning also at four o'clock the depth was the same; but +at ten o'clock the water rose suddenly eighteen inches, upon which the +anchors were lifted and the brig warped over the bar to an anchorage in +three and a half fathoms off the outer watering-place, to await a +favourable opportunity of going over to Seal Island; near which it was +intended to anchor in order to refit the rigging and otherwise prepare +the vessel for our voyage up the west coast. + +In the afternoon we procured a load of water and permitted the natives, +thirteen of whom were assembled, to pay us another visit. On their coming +on board it was noticed that many of them belonged to the tribe that +lived on the opposite shore, but how they had crossed over was not +satisfactorily ascertained. Their wonder on this their last visit was +much raised by our firing off a nine-pounder loaded with shot, the splash +of which in the water caused the greatest astonishment, and one of them +was extremely vehement and noisy in explaining it to his companions. Upon +repeating this exhibition they paid particular attention to the operation +of loading the gun, and expressed the greatest surprise at the weight of +the ball, upon which, after they had all severally examined it, they held +a long and wordy argument as to what it possibly could be. At the splash +of the ball, for which they were all looking out, they expressed their +delight by shouting in full chorus the words Cai, cai, cai, cai, caigh. +After this they were sent on shore. + +January 3. + +At daybreak the next morning an opportunity offered to cross the sound, +and by eight o'clock the brig was anchored under Seal Island; upon which +we commenced the repair of the rigging, and in the course of the day +shifted the main topmast. We had left the anchorage on the other side of +the sound too early for our friends the natives, who had promised last +evening to bring us a hawk's nest that was built upon a rock near the +watering-place; at ten o'clock a very large fire was perceived close to +the nest; it was no doubt kindled by them, and meant to show that they +were not inattentive to their promise. + +January 4. + +The following day some natives were seen about a mile off upon the beach +but did not come near the vessel. Mr. Cunningham botanised upon the +summit of Bald Head. Of this excursion he gave me the following account: +"Upon reaching the summit of the ridge, and clearing a rocky gully which +intersected our track, we instantly entered an elevated valley of pure +white sand, bounded on either side by ridges forty feet high, that were +in themselves totally bare, excepting on the tops, where a thin clothing +of shrubs was remarked; the whole surface reflected a heat scarcely +supportable, and the air was so stagnant as scarcely to be respired, +although we were at a considerable elevation, and in the vicinity of a +constant current of pure atmospheric air on the ridge. After traversing +the whole length of this sandy vale, which is one-third of a mile in +extent, in our route towards Bald Head, with scarcely a plant to attract +our attention, we perceived at its extremity some remarkably fine +specimens of Candollea cuneiformis, Labil., which had, in spite of the +poverty and looseness of the drifting sand, risen to large spreading +trees, sixteen feet high, of robust growth and habit; they were at this +time covered with flowers and ripe fruit; but so painful was it to the +eyes and senses to remain for a moment stationary in this heated valley, +that whilst I gathered a quantity of the seeds of this truly rich plant, +my servant was obliged to hurry away to a cooler air on the ridge, which +we had again nearly reached; and but for this fine plant, and the no less +conspicuous blue-flowered Scaevola nitida, Br. The whole scene would have +deeply impressed us with all the horrors that such extremes of aridity +are naturally calculated to excite. + +"Upon again reaching the ridge, whose moderated temperature required our +care to avoid suffering from the sudden transition, we came to the +granite, on whose bare surface I found a prostrate specimen of baeckea, +remarkable for the regularity of its decussate leaves, which I have +designated in my list as Baeckea saxicola. Continuing to the extremity of +the ridge, I was much surprised to find we had already attained the +highest point of the range, and to observe another expanse, or extensive +cavity, of bare white sand below us, to the South-East, the termination +of which we afterwards found to be the Bald Head, of Captain Vancouver. +This part is of remarkable appearance from seaward, having on either side +of its bare sandy summit a contrasting brushy vegetation: from the sea +however a very small part only of its extensive surface of sand can be +perceived, the greater part being only observable from the commanding +hillocks we had with much exertion arrived at. A calcareous rock +(affording evidently a very considerable portion of pure lime) was seen +in a decomposing state piercing the sandy surface of all parts of the +ridge about Bald Head which, however, is itself a pure granite; the dense +low brushy wood in its vicinity is chiefly composed of the delicate +baeckea."* + +(*Footnote. Cunningham manuscripts.) + +In the evening we visited Seal Island, and killed five seals for the sake +of their skins, which were serviceable for the rigging; the boat's crew +also found some penguins (Aptenodytes minor) and a nest of iguanas. The +bottle deposited here at our last visit in 1818 was found suspended where +it had been left and brought on board, when another memorandum was +enclosed in it, containing a notification of our present visit, of the +friendly and communicative disposition of the natives, and a copy of the +vocabulary of their language. + +January 5. + +On the 5th in the afternoon on our return to the vessel, after visiting +the shore and landing upon the flat rock, which is merely a bare mass of +granite, of about thirty yards in diameter, some natives were heard +calling to us, and upon our pulling to the part whence the sound came, we +found two men and a boy. After some time they were discovered to be three +of our Oyster-Harbour friends, and therefore we made no hesitation of +communicating with them, and of taking them on board, where they were +regaled upon the flesh of the seals we had killed at the island. + +Notwithstanding the friendly disposition of the inhabitants of this +sound, I felt it necessary to act very cautiously in our communication +with them, in order to avoid any misunderstanding. And that this might +not even be accidentally done, I requested Mr. Cunningham to confine his +walks to the vicinity of the vessel, and particularly to avoid any route +that would take him towards their encampment. He was therefore prevented +from visiting many parts near which he had promised himself much +amusement and information in botanizing, particularly the neighbourhood +of Bayonet Head, and the distant parts of Oyster Harbour. At our former +visit to this place he had searched in vain for that curious little plant +Cephalotus follicularis, Br.,* but on this occasion he was more +fortunate, for he found it in the greatest profusion in the vicinity of +the stream that empties itself over the beach of the outer bay where we +watered. Of this he says: "The plants of cephalotus were all in a very +weak state, and none in any stage of fructification: the ascidia, or +pitchers, which are inserted on strong foot-stalks, and intermixed about +the root with the leaves, all contained a quantity of discoloured water, +and, in some, the drowned bodies of ants and other small insects. Whether +this fluid can be considered a secretion of the plant, as appears really +to be the fact with reference to the nepenthes, or pitcher-plant of +India,** deposited by it through its vessels into the pitchers; or even a +secretion of the ascidia themselves; or whether it is not simply +rainwater lodged in these reservoirs, as a provision from which the plant +might derive support in seasons of protracted drought, when those marshy +lands (in which this vegetable is alone to be found) are partially dried +of the moisture that is indispensable to its existence, may perhaps be +presumed by the following observations. The opercula, shaped like some +species of oyster, or escalop-shells, I found in some pitchers to be very +closely shut upon their orifices, although their cavities, upon +examination, contained but very little water, and the state of the +weather was exceedingly cloudy, and at intervals showery; if, therefore, +the appendages are really cisterns, to receive an elemental fluid for the +nourishment of the plant in times of drought, it is natural to suppose +that this circumstance would operate upon the ramified vessels of the +lids, so as to draw them up, and allow the rain to replenish the +pitchers. Mr. Brown also, who had an opportunity in 1801 of examining +plants fully grown, supposes it probable that the vertical or horizontal +positions in which the opercula were remarked, are determined by the +state of the atmosphere, at the same time that he thinks it possible that +the fluid may be a secretion of the plant. The several dead insects that +were observed within the vases of cephalotus were very possibly deposited +there by an insect of prey, since I detected a slender-bodied fly +(ichneumon) within a closed pitcher, having evidently forced its passage +under the lid to the interior, where an abundant store of putrescent +insects were collected. Whilst, therefore, these pitchers are answering +the double purpose, of being a reservoir to retain a fluid, however +produced, for the nourishment of the plant in the exigency of a dry +season, as also a repository of food for rapacious insects, as in +sarracenia, or the American pitcher-plant; it is also probable that the +air, disengaged by these drowned ants, may be important and beneficial to +the life of the Australian plant, as Sir James E. Smith has suggested, in +respect to the last-mentioned genus, wild in the swamp of Georgia and +Carolina. + +(*Footnote. Flinders volume 1 page 64 and Brown's General Remarks in +Flinders volume 2 page 601 et seq.) + +(**Footnote. Smith's Introduction to Botany page 150.) + +"I spent much time in a fruitless search for flowering specimens of +cephalotus; all the plants were very small and weak, and showed no +disposition to produce flowers at the season, and none had more than +three or four ascidia."* + +(*Footnote. Cunningham manuscripts.) + +The only edible plants that Mr. Cunningham found were a creeping parsley +(Apium prostratum, Labil.) and a species of orach (Atriplex halimus, +Brown) the latter was used by us every day, boiled with salt provisions, +and proved a tolerable substitute for spinach or greens. During our visit +we caught but very few fish, and only a few oysters were obtained, on +account of the banks being seldom uncovered, and the presence of the +natives which prevented my trusting the people out of my sight for fear +of a quarrel. Shellfish of other sorts were obtained at Mistaken Island +in abundance, of which the most common were a patella and an haliotis; +the inhabitant of the former made a coarse, although a savoury dish. +There were also varieties of the following genera: namely, lepas, chiton, +cardium, pinna, nerita, two or three species of ostrea, a small mytilus, +and a small buccinum of great beauty; that covered the rocks and at low +water might be collected in abundance. + + + +CHAPTER 4. +Leave King George the Third's Sound, and commence the survey of the West +Coast at Rottnest Island. +Another remarkable effect of mirage. +Anchor under, and land upon Rottnest Island. +Break an anchor. +Examine the coast to the northward. +Cape Leschenault. +Lancelin Island. +Jurien Bay. +Houtman's Abrolhos. +Moresby's Flat-topped Range. +Red Point. +Anchor in Dirk Hartog's Road, at the entrance of Shark's Bay. +Occurrences there. +Examination of the coast to the North-west Cape. +Barrow Island. +Heavy gale off the Montebello Isles. +Rowley's Shoals. +Cape Leveque. +Dangerous situation of the brig among the islands of Buccaneer's +Archipelago. +Examination and description of Cygnet Bay. +Lose an anchor, and leave the coast. +Adele Island. +Return to Port Jackson. + +1822. January 6. + +We sailed from King George's Sound on the 6th. + +January 8. + +But from south-westerly winds, were no further advanced by the 8th than +the meridian of Cape Chatham. After which, entering a current setting at +one mile an hour to the westward, the brig made considerable progress. + +January 10. + +At daylight, 10th, Cape Leeuwin came in sight from the masthead, and at +eight o'clock was seen from the deck at the distance of ten leagues, +bearing North 42 degrees East by compass. + +At this, the south-westernmost extremity of New Holland, Captain Flinders +commenced his examination of the south coast, but saw no part to the +northward. The French expedition under Captain Baudin were upon this part +at two different periods of their voyage, and it appears from an +examination of their tracks that the coast between Capes Leeuwin and +Peron, the latter of which is about five leagues to the southward of the +entrance of Swan River, has been sufficiently examined by them. They +landed in several parts of Geographe Bay which affords a shelter from +southerly winds but is so exposed to those between North and +West-North-West that the French ships ran great danger of being +shipwrecked during a gale from that quarter. + +The coast is sandy, and from M. Peron's description, barren and +unprofitable. With the exception of the Recif du Naturaliste which lies +about five leagues to the north of the Cape of that name there seems to +be no danger in the vicinity of the bay. The small inlet of Port +Leschenault is only the embouchure of a salt-marsh; it is scarcely +attainable even by boats; for there appears to be only three feet water +on the bar, and over and within it not more than fifteen feet. The French +found no fresh water in any part of Geographe Bay. From Port Leschenault +to Cape Peron the coast is low and sandy but inland it is of a moderate +height and appears to be furnished with a slight vegetation. The French +ships sailed along this coast at the distance of four or five miles from +the beach, and the report made by them is sufficiently in detail for all +the purposes of navigation. + +Upon these considerations it was not deemed necessary that we should +examine this part again, and therefore sailed at a distance from the land +to ensure a quicker passage to Cape Peron, in order to explore the bay +behind the Isles of Louis Napoleon. Swan River and Rottnest Island had +been already carefully examined by the French; but from the latter island +to the North-west Cape, with the exception of Shark's Bay, they saw very +little of the coast, and have given its outline principally from Van +Keulen.* + +(*Footnote. Freycinet page 441.) + +At noon on the 10th our latitude was 34 degrees 16 minutes 14 seconds, +and a large bare, sandy patch upon the land, the Tache Blanche +remarquable of Captain Baudin, bore North 77 degrees East (magnetic). At +six o'clock in the evening we passed Cape Naturaliste, having experienced +a strong current setting North 11 degrees West, at nearly two miles per +hour; hence we steered to the northward, but it was dark when we passed +near the position assigned to the Recif Naturaliste: after steering on +for three hours longer we edged in for the land and at ten o'clock hauled +to the wind for the night. + +January 11. + +The next day at noon we were in latitude 32 degrees 36 minutes 2 seconds, +having the land about Cape Peron in sight from the masthead, bearing East +by South 1/2 South; but during the day the wind was so light that we had +not approached it within four leagues by sunset. + +At this time the coast was visible as far as Cape Bouvard between which +and Cape Peron it is low and sandy, but the hills appeared to be +tolerably well wooded, and of a moderate height. Buache Island was +visible as well as the small rocky islet between it and Cape Peron. The +former is low and sandy, and its outline of hummocky shape; and to the +eastward was some distant land trending towards the assigned entrance of +Swan River. To the northward of Buache Island a small lump was seen on +the horizon, which perhaps might have been Berthollet Island, but it was +very indistinct. The sun set in a dense bank and the moment it +disappeared a very copious dew began to fall. + +January 12. + +The next morning at daylight the land to the southward of Cape Peron was +ten miles off, but at half-past nine o'clock we were between Capes Peron +and Bouvard, and about five miles from the shore, which from the former +extended in a North-East by North direction, still low and sandy. + +At noon the latitude was observed to be 32 degrees 30 minutes 42 seconds, +but by the land it was only 32 degrees 23 minutes 30 seconds, a +difference of 7 minutes 12 seconds. This error was occasioned by the haze +which concealed the true horizon, and caused an appearance of land all +round us, on which rocks, sandy beaches, and trees were so plainly formed +that the officer of the watch actually reported two islands on the +western horizon. This was the most remarkable instance of mirage that we +ever witnessed; the haze had only commenced a few minutes before noon, +whilst the observation for the latitude was in the act of being taken; +and immediately after I was employed upon the chart for half an hour, +puzzling myself in attempting to reconcile the observed latitude with the +bearings of the land. This curious phenomenon was also witnessed by the +French in Geographe Bay. During the time this magical appearance +continued, we had very light airs from the southward: the barometrical +column fell to 29.76 inches, but the hygrometer indicated an +extraordinary dryness of the air. At sunset the haze cleared away, when +Rottnest Island was seen, bearing between North 10 degrees and 32 degrees +East (magnetic); a breeze then freshened from West-South-West but +gradually veered round to the southward; and at nine o'clock was very +light from South-East. + +January 13. + +During the night we made short tacks. At four o'clock in the morning +(13th) the latitude by the moon's meridional altitude was 32 degrees 16 +minutes 17 seconds, and soon afterwards Rottnest was in sight in the +North-North-East. At six o'clock the sky was clouded, and the weather +threatened to be bad; the mercury fell to 29.69 inches, upon which all +sail was made off the land, as appearances indicated a westerly gale: but +after an interval of two hours, during which we had a fresh breeze from +North-West by West, the weather cleared up and we steered towards +Rottnest Island. + +January 14. + +The next morning the brig was anchored off the north-east end of the +island in thirteen fathoms gravelly sand; and in the afternoon I went on +shore in a bay on the east or leeward side, where we found the water +smooth and the landing more practicable than upon the north side where a +tremendous surf was rolling in upon the beach. We disturbed a great many +seals but only killed three; and were much disappointed in finding that +these animals were not of the fur species, as in M. de Freycinet's +account of the island they are said to be; they were evidently the same +description as those noticed at King George's Sound. The traces of a +small kangaroo were everywhere abundant but the animals were not seen. We +walked to the easternmost of the lakes which the French named Etangs +Duvaildaily and which M. de Freycinet remarks as being surrounded by an +extensive beach, composed entirely of bivalve shells, a species of +cardium: the quantity was indeed extraordinary. The banks were frequented +by gulls and sandpipers, of which many were shot. The water was found to +be perfectly salt and from the circumstance of its rising and falling +with the tide it must have some communication with the sea. The rocks of +the island are principally calcareous and in a very advanced state of +decomposition. The beaches were covered with dead shells of the genera +buccinum, bulla, murex, trochus, and haliotis; but we found none with the +living animal in them. Of the feathered tribe a hawk and a pigeon were +the only land-birds seen; but boobies, terns, and sandpipers were very +numerous about the shores. Mr. Cunningham was fully employed during the +short time that we were on shore, and excepting the pleasing interest +created in our minds by landing on an island which has been so seldom +before seen, and which from Vlaming's account bears a prominent place in +the history of this part of the coast, he was the only one of the party +that derived any advantage from our visit. Of the productions of this +island he makes the following brief remarks: "It is surprising that an +island, situated at so short a distance from the south-west coast, should +bear so small a feature of the characteristic vegetation of King George's +Sound as not to furnish a plant of its several genera of Proteaceae or +Mimoseae, and but a solitary plant of Leguminosae. It would therefore +seem that these families are confined to the shores of the main, +particularly about King George's Sound, where we have just left them in +the greatest luxuriance and profusion. Among the botanical productions of +this island there is no plant of so striking a feature as the callitris, +a tree of about twenty-five feet high, with a short stem of three feet in +diameter; it much resembles the Pinus cedrus, or cedar of Lebanon, in its +robust horizontal growth; it is found abundantly over the island, and +within a few yards of the sea-beach. The island is formed by a succession +of small hills and intervening valleys; and although the soil is very +poor, being principally a mixture of quartzose sand and a large +proportion of marine exuviae, yet this tree grows to a considerable size, +but covering the surface of the island, gives it a monotonous appearance +which is however occasionally relieved by a spreading undescribed species +of melaleuca (allied to Melaleuca armillaris, Smith) and the more elegant +pittosporum, an arborescent species, also undescribed. In fact, these +three trees constitute the timber of the island. The ground is in some +parts profusely clothed with Spinifex hirsutus, Labil., in which I +detected a new species of xerotes, a round bushy plant growing in large +bodies. + +"No fresh water has ever been discovered upon this island: indeed the +loose filtering nature of the soil is not tenacious enough to retain that +element at the surface. The woods are abundantly stocked with a small +species of kangaroo of which we saw only the traces; nor did we see the +animal, on account of whose numbers and resemblance to a rat the island +received its name from Vlaming in 1619. M. Peron says that it forms a new +genus, and of a very remarkable character.* Rottnest Island does not +appear ever to have been inhabited or even visited by the natives from +the main; probably on account of the stormy nature of the weather, and +the prevalence of westerly winds, which would be quite sufficient to +deter them from venturing to sea in such fragile vessels as they +possess."** + +(*Footnote. Peron volume 1 page 189.) + +(**Footnote. Cunningham manuscripts.) + +January 15. + +On our return to the brig, we passed over a clear sandy bottom that would +have afforded better anchorage than where we had brought up; for the +vessel was not only exposed to a considerable swell but the ground was so +foul that in weighing the anchor the following morning one of the flukes +hooked a rock and broke off, besides which the cable was much rubbed. + +As Swan River had been very minutely examined in Baudin's voyage by MM. +Heirisson and Baily, the former an enseigne de vaisseau, the latter a +mineralogist, an account of which is fully detailed in De Freycinet's and +Peron's respective accounts of that voyage,* without their finding +anything of sufficient importance to induce me to risk leaving the brig +at anchor off Rottnest Island for so long a time as it would necessarily +take to add to the knowledge of it that we already possess, I did not +think it advisable to delay for such a purpose, and therefore as soon as +we were underweigh steered for the mainland and continued to run +northerly along the shore at the distance of six miles from it. At noon +our latitude was 31 degrees 37 minutes 32 seconds. The coast is formed by +sandy hillocks, or dunes, of from one hundred to one hundred and fifty +feet high, here and there sprinkled with shrubs, but in many parts quite +bare: behind this frontier a second range of hills was occasionally seen +on which the trees appeared to be of moderate size: the shore is rocky +for two miles off and in many parts the sea broke. At half-past three +o'clock we were abreast of a low, sandy projection, supposed to be +Captain Baudin's Cape Leschenault. The appearance of the coast to the +northward on this cape differed from what we passed in the morning, in +that the coast hillocks are more bare of vegetation; there appeared to be +several ridges behind the coast dunes, but they were all equally +unproductive of vegetation. Lancelin Island was not distinctly made out +but the two small rocky lumps on the bare sandhills that M. De Freycinet +mentions, were seen and thought to be very remarkable. At seven o'clock, +having reached in my plan the latitude 31 degrees 0 minutes 30 seconds, +and longitude 115 degrees 0 minutes 0 seconds, we hauled off shore for +the night. + +January 16. + +And at six o'clock a.m. stood towards the land again. At half-past ten +o'clock we were so near to it as to see the beach: at noon the latitude +was observed to be 30 degrees 52 minutes 13 seconds, its longitude being +114 degrees 56 minutes 45 seconds, at which time we were on the parallel +of the two rocky lumps seen the last evening. Hence we steered north on a +parallel direction with the coast and ran forty-five miles, passing the +different projections of the beach at the distance of four or five miles, +and sounding in between nineteen and twenty-five fathoms. At four o'clock +we were abreast of a bare sandy point which appeared to be the north head +of Jurien Bay, in which two rocky islets were seen, fronted by reefs, on +which the sea in many parts was breaking violently. To the southward of +the point the coast hills are rather high and principally formed of very +white sand, bearing a strong resemblance, from the absence of vegetables, +to hills covered with snow. Here and there however a few shrubs partially +concealed the sand, and gave a variety to the scene which was dismally +triste. The country to the northward bears a different character; the +shore is very low and sandy and continues so for some distance in the +interior towards the base of a range of tolerably-elevated hills, on +which the French have placed three remarkable pitons, but these, perhaps +from our being too close in shore, we did not discover. + +(*Footnote. See De Freycinet page 175 et seq and Peron volume 1 page 178 +et seq.) + +This range extends in a North by West and South by East direction, and +appears to be rocky. In the middle ground some trees were noticed and +vegetation appeared to be more abundant than in the space between the +bare sandy point and Cape Leschenault. In Jurien Bay towards its south +part near the shore is a small hillock, on which some trees of a moderate +size were seen; they are thus noticed because the existence of trees +hereabout is so rare as to be deserving of record. No native fires were +seen between this part and Rottnest Island, nor was there any other +indication of the coast being inhabited; it is however likely to be as +populous as any other part, for the hills in the interior, which we +occasionally got a glimpse of, seemed to be wooded, and would therefore +furnish subsistence to natives from hunting, even if the seashore failed +in supplying them with fish. Between the bare sandy point and Island +Point there is a deep bay, the shores of which are fronted by a reef +partly dry, extending from the shore two miles. + +At seven o'clock we were about a mile and a half from a reef that nearly +crossed our course; and as it was time to haul off for the night we +shortened sail and brought to the wind, then blowing a strong squally +breeze from south; but notwithstanding this succession of bad weather, +the mercury in the barometer had ranged steadily between 29.90 and 29.92 +inches. + +January 17. + +At daybreak we steered in for the land but ran twenty-two miles before it +was seen. At nine o'clock it bore between North-East and South-East, and +at a quarter after nine heavy breakers were seen in the South-East at the +distance of five miles. The weather was now fine and the wind +South-South-East, but still blew strong; the horizon was so enveloped by +haze that the land, although not more than seven miles from our track, +was very indistinctly seen: it seemed to be formed of sandhills, from one +hundred to one hundred and fifty feet high, slightly studded with a +scrubby vegetation; in the interior we perceived a range of hills of +tabular form which are probably very high. At ten o'clock we passed +another patch of breakers at the distance of about a mile and a half; but +these appeared to have no connexion with those seen at nine o'clock. Our +soundings were between fifteen and seventeen fathoms, and our distance +from the beach from six to seven miles. At noon the wind veered back to +South-South-West and blew hard: we were at this time in 29 degrees 5 +minutes 1 second South and by chronometers in 114 degrees 40 minutes 30 +seconds East; by which we found that a current had set us during the last +twenty-four hours to the North-North-West at one mile per hour. At +half-past twelve o'clock more breakers were seen bearing North-West 1/2 +North, when we hauled off West-North-West in order to ascertain the +distance between the land and the Abrolhos bank which, in Van Keulen's +chart, is placed abreast of this part of the coast. + +At half-past four o'clock the masthead man was cautioned to look out for +breakers and in less than half an hour afterwards he reported some +bearing North-West by North. On going to the masthead I saw them +distinctly for they were not more than four miles off, and on looking +round the horizon towards the westward, distinctly saw the island of +Frederick Houtman's Abrolhos, which for some time the masthead man +persisted was only the shadow of the clouds; but a small hummock being +soon afterwards descried upon the summit of the largest, confirmed my +conjectures. The group appeared to consist of three islands, all low and +of small size. Beyond and around them the sea was smooth and to the +southward another patch of breakers was observed. Preparations were now +made to tack off, but I had scarcely reached the deck when the lookout +man reported rocks under our lee bow, upon which the helm was immediately +put up; and when the vessel's head was round upon the opposite tack the +following bearings were taken: + +Island of the Abrolhos: eight miles off, between West and South 75 +degrees West. + +Breakers: four miles off, North-North-West North. + +Another patch: seven miles off, South-West. + +And the small rock patch, half a mile off, West. + +This last I did not see myself but two men perceived it distinctly from +the masthead, and it is from their accounts that I am induced to give it +a place upon the chart. The position of the vessel when we saw the +breakers was in latitude 28 degrees 53 minutes and in longitude 114 +degrees 2 minutes, and from the short interval between our obtaining +sights for the chronometer and the meridional observation at noon, the +position may be considered to be tolerably correct. After taking the +bearings and before sail was made we sounded in twenty-five fathoms, fine +shelly sand; but as we stood to the eastward the water gradually deepened +to twenty-nine and thirty fathoms. + +January 18. + +The next morning at daylight the land was out of sight but at five +o'clock was distinguished, forming a range of flat-topped land, probably +about one thousand feet high. At the northern end of the range were four +or five hills standing apart from each other, of which, in the view we +then had of them, the northernmost was flat-topped, and the others +peaked; at the south end of the range were three other distinct hills, +the centre being peaked and the other two flat-topped. Near the centre of +the main range was another summit that was remarkable for its form. + +This range was seen by Captain Hamelin of the Naturaliste, and is thus +noticed by M. De Freycinet in his account of the voyage. "Entre les +paralleles de 29 degres et 28 degres 20 minutes, la terre est tres haute; +on y remarque deux montagnes bien reconnoisables par leur forme qui +approche de celle de la Grange, sur la cote de Saint-Domingue, ou de la +Montagne de la Table au Cap de Bonne-Esperance; une autre ressemble un +peu au Pouce, de l'Ile-de-France. La terre est aride, bordee de falaises +rougeatres; on y voit peu de sable comparativement aux terres plus au +sud."* + +(*Footnote. De Freycinet page 181.) + +We sought in vain for the resemblance to the Pouce, but as all the hills +were flat-topped of course they were similar to the Table Land of the +Cape of Good Hope, but probably inferior to it in point of height. + +This range I called after Captain Moresby, R.N. C.B., in grateful +recognition of the prompt assistance rendered by him to the wants and +repairs of our vessel, during her late visit to Mauritius. The summit in +the centre was called Mount Fairfax; the group of hills at the north end +were named Menai Hills, and the three at the south end of the range were +distinguished by the name of Wizard Hills; Mount Fairfax is in latitude +28 degrees 45 minutes 20 seconds, longitude 114 degrees 38 minutes 45 +seconds. The shore in front of these hills is sandy and there was an +appearance of two openings in the beach that were probably the outlets of +mountain-streams. The country also appeared much better wooded than in +other parts, and as large smokes were seen in the valleys the place most +likely at the time of our passing frequented by natives. + +Hence the coast trends to the North-West by North towards a patch of bare +sand, which is remarkable because the coast is not so sandy as it is more +to the south. At ten o'clock a very thick haze spread over the land and +so enveloped it that nothing could be distinguished. At noon, the brig +being in 28 degrees 25 minutes 42 seconds South, and 114 degrees 7 +minutes 0 seconds East, the haze partially cleared away and showed that +the coast had changed its character, being now steep, and in some parts +cliffy, but still occasionally studded with spots of bare sand. In the +interior a rocky, flat-topped hill was seen; it is probably the Mount +Naturaliste of the French. The coast trends here in a North by West +direction. + +The passage or channel between the Abrolhos Bank and the coast has been +distinguished by the name of Vlaming's ship, The Geelvink, since she was +the first vessel that passed them (Anno 1697). Captain Hamelin in the +Naturaliste also passed within them, imagining that he perceived them to +the eastward, but what he saw must have been the summit of Moresby's +Flat-topped Range.* + +(*Footnote. So M. De Freycinet also thinks, for he says: "quelques +personnes n'osent assurer que nous ayons vu les Abrolhos; d'autres, et je +suis de ce nombre, peusent que ce que nous avons pris pour ce groupe +d'iles est une portion du Continent." Freycinet page 180.) + +The soundings of the coast upon our track between Rottnest Island and the +Abrolhos have been gradually of a gravelly nature, mixed sometimes with +shelly sand, and were generally coarser as we approached the shore. In +some parts, particularly near Cape Naturaliste and Rottnest Island, the +bottom appeared to be a bed of small water-worn quartzose pebbles not +larger than a pin's head. Off Moresby's Flat-topped Range the bottom is +of a soft dark-gray-coloured sand of a very fine quality that would +afford good anchorage was it not for the constant swell that pervades +this stormy coast; the water was however much smoother than in other +parts, which might have been occasioned either by the Abrolhos bank's +breaking the sea, or from the temporary cessation of the wind, for it was +comparatively light to what it had been since our leaving Rottnest +Island. + +A large patch of bare sand terminates the sandy shores of this coast in +latitude 27 degrees 55 minutes. A steep cliff then commences and extends +for eight miles to the Red Point of Vlaming; behind which is a bight, +called by the French Gantheaume Bay; in the south part of which there +appeared a small opening. This bay did not seem to be so well calculated +for taking shelter in from southerly gales, as Van Keulen's chart +indicates; since it is exposed to winds from South-West by South, from +which quarter it must frequently blow. The country appeared very rocky; +the slight vegetation covering its surface gave it a greenish hue, but no +trees were seen near the shore which is fronted by a sandy beach; the +depth of the bight is probably five or six miles. The cliffs of Red Point +partake of a reddish tinge and appear to be disposed nearly in horizontal +strata. In the centre and about halfway between the base and summit of +the cliffs is a remarkable block of stone, of very white colour, that at +a distance appeared to be either a fort or house: some black marks on its +face took our attention and resembled characters of a very large size, as +if they had been painted for the purpose of attracting the attention of +vessels passing by; but a closer examination with the telescope prove +them to be only the shadows of the projecting parts of the surface. + +At half-past seven o'clock we hauled off for the night and, standing off +and on, sounded in between thirty-three and thirty-five fathoms. + +January 19. + +At daylight the next morning the land bore from East to East-South-East +but the morning and forenoon were so hazy that it was very indistinctly +seen; at noon a partial clearing away of the haze exposed to our view a +long range of high and precipitous cliffs, the base of which was washed +by the sea, breaking upon it with a tremendous roar, and heard distinctly +by us. The wind falling in the afternoon induced me to stand off shore, +when we soon lost sight of the land. At noon we were in latitude 27 +degrees 5 minutes 18 seconds. At one o'clock the depth was forty-five +fathoms fine gray sand. No land was seen during the rest of the day; for +although the sky was beautifully clear and serene, the atmosphere for +fifteen degrees above the horizon was enveloped in a thick hazy mist that +caused an extraordinary dampness in the air, and from the unfavourable +state of the weather we did not attempt to make it again. + +January 20. + +The next morning we saw that part of Dirk Hartog's Island which lies in +25 degrees 56 minutes, and when we had reached within four miles of the +shore steered to the northward parallel to the beach, but the haze was +still so great as to render the land very indistinct. We saw enough of it +however to be convinced of its perfect sterility. The coast is lined with +a barrier of rocks on which the sea was breaking high with a roar that +was heard on board although our distance from the shore was at least +three miles. + +The warmth of the weather now began rapidly to increase; the thermometer +at noon ranged as high as 79 degrees. + +At one o'clock Cape Inscription, the north-westernmost point of Dirk +Hartog's Island, was distinguished and the sea-breeze veered as far as +South-West by West, which was two points more westerly than we had +hitherto had it. At two o'clock the brig passed round the cape and, as +there was an appearance of good shelter in the bay to the eastward of it, +we hauled in and at half-past three o'clock anchored in twelve fathoms +fine gravelly soft sand; the west point of Dirk Hartog's Island (Cape +Inscription) bearing North 82 degrees West, and the low sandy point that +forms its north-east end South 53 degrees West, at a mile and a half from +the shore. + +As we hauled round the cape and were passing under the lee of the land +the breeze became so suddenly heated, by its blowing over the arid and +parched surface of the coast, that my seaweed hygrometer, which had been +quite damp since we left Rottnest Island, was in ten minutes so dried as +to be covered with crystals of salt; and in this state it continued +during our stay. + +Upon rounding the cape two posts were descried upon its summit, which we +conjectured to be those on which the French had affixed a record of their +visit, as well as the more ancient one of the Dutch navigators, Dirk +Hartog and Vlaming; for they were very conspicuously placed and appeared +to be in good preservation. + +We had not anchored five minutes before the vessel was surrounded by +sharks, which at once impressed us with the propriety of Dampier's +nomenclature. One that was caught measured eleven feet in length but the +greater number were not more than three or four feet long. They were very +voracious and scared away large quantities of fish, of which, however, +our people during the evening caught a good supply. + +January 21. + +The following morning we landed at the Cape and with eager steps ascended +the rocky face of the hill to examine the interesting memorials that were +affixed to the post; but found to our great mortification that they had +been removed; the only vestige that remained was the nails by which they +had been secured. One of the posts was about two feet high and evidently +made of the wood of the callitris, that grows upon Rottnest Island; it +appeared to have been broken down; the other was still erect and seemed +to have been either the heel of a ship's royal-mast or part of a +studding-sail boom; upon one side of it a flag had been fastened by +nails. A careful search was made all round but, as no signs of the Dutch +plate or of the more recent French inscription were seen, it was +conjectured that they had been removed by the natives; but since our +return to England I have learnt that they are preserved in the Museum of +the Institute at Paris, where they had been deposited by M. De Freycinet +upon his return from his late voyage round the world. After this +disappointment we returned to the sea-beach, whilst Mr. Cunningham +botanised along the summit of the ridge; and before he rejoined us we had +been fortunate enough to find two very fine turtles, and a large quantity +of turtle-eggs. The animals had been left by the tide in holes of the +rocks, from which we had some difficulty in extricating them. During our +absence from the vessel our people had been very successful with the hook +and line, having caught about five or six dozen snappers, besides some of +the genus tetradon. + +This seasonable supply and the probability of our procuring more turtles +from the beach induced me to remain here a few days to perform some +trifling repairs that could not be effected at sea. We were also +prevented from moving, from the unfavourable state of the weather; for it +was blowing a gale of wind all the time we remained; but as our people +were living upon fresh food the time was not considered as lost. + +January 22. + +The next morning fifty turtles were turned, but as we could not convey +them all on board forty were left on shore upon their backs for the +night: upon landing the next morning they were all found dead, having +killed themselves by their exertions to escape, and from their exposure +to the heat of the sun which was so great during the day that I did not +send any of the people on shore. We found, however, no difficulty in +procuring more, some of which weighed four hundredweight. + +The shore of this bay is fronted by a rocky reef covered with shell-fish, +of which the principal sorts were species of trochus, chama, conus, +voluta, cypraea, buccinum, ostrea, mytilus, and patella; among the latter +was the large one of King George's Sound. Upon the beaches to windward of +the cape we found varieties of sponge and coral; and beche de mer were +observed in the crevices of the rocks but were neither large nor +plentiful. Mr. Cunningham saw two land snakes, one of which was about +four feet in length; the colour of its back was black and the belly +yellow; the only quadruped seen was a small opossum. A seal of the hair +species, like those of Rottnest Island, was seen on the rocks, probably +of the same description that Dampier found in the maw of the shark;* and +also what was found by the French on Faure Island, which M. Peron +supposed to be an herbivorous animal and described as a dugong.** + +(*Footnote. Dampier volume 3 page 87.) + +(**Footnote. Peron volume 2 page 227 et seq and De Freycinet page 201.) + +January 24. + +On the 24th Mr. Roe visited the Cape to fix on the post a memorial of our +visit; an inscription was carved upon a small piece of wood in the back +of which was deposited another memorandum written upon vellum; the wood +was of the size of the sheave-hole of the larger post, into which it was +fixed, and near it Mr. Roe piled up a heap of stones. After this was +accomplished the party walked for some distance along the beach to the +south-west of the cape, where they found the remains of two or three +whales that had been lately wrecked; a small piece of putrefied flesh was +also seen, about two or three feet long, one side of which was covered +with red hair, it was however too far gone to ascertain to what animal it +belonged. + +On examining into the state of our dry provisions it was mortifying to +find that the rats and cockroaches had destroyed an incredible quantity, +particularly of our biscuit and flour. In one of the casks of the latter +more than two-thirds of its contents was deficient. The biscuit was +completely drilled through and the greater part would not have been +thought fit to eat if we had possessed any of a better quality; I still +however hoped to have a sufficiency on board to complete the survey of +the north-west coast before our return to Port Jackson, which I now found +would of necessity be at least four or five weeks before the time I had +fixed upon when we left the Mauritius. As it would take up a great +portion of the time we had now left to make a more extensive examination +of Shark's Bay than what the French have already performed, and would +entirely prevent my going upon the north-west coast again; it was +determined that we should not delay here, but pass on and resume our +examination of the coast at Cape Cuvier, the northern head of the bay. +The only part of Shark's Bay that seems to be at all interesting, and to +require further examination, is the eastern side of the bay immediately +opposite to the Islands of Dorre and Bernier; but from the very intricate +and shoal nature of its approach it is very doubtful whether even a sight +of the land in that direction could be procured. + +The rocks of Dirk Hartog's Island are of a very remarkable formation, +consisting of a congeries of quartzose sand, united in small circular +kernels by a calcareous cement in which some shells were found embedded. +The geological character of this rock is more fully treated upon in the +Appendix by my friend Dr. Fitton. + +"Upon the summit of the cliffs there are a few low shrubs, at this time +much parched up, but among them Mr. Cunningham found a tolerably rich +harvest. In his collection were the following plants, which were +originally brought to Europe by Dampier; namely, Trichinium incanum, Br.; +Diplolaena dampieri, Desf.; solanum, a thorny ferruginous species without +fructification (Solanum dampieri ?) Dampiera incana, Br.; and a cordate +melaleuca, figured by Dampier*: a beautiful loranthus (teretifolius, +Cunningham) grew on the branches of an undescribed acacia (Acacia +ligulata, Cunningham manuscript):"..."many were the wrecks of most +interesting plants, and especially those of soft herbaceous duration, +which had some time since fallen a sacrifice to the apparent +long-protracted drought of the season; but it was impossible, amidst the +sad languor of vegetation, not to admire the luxuriant and healthy habit +of an undescribed species of pittosporum (oleifolium, Cunningham +manuscript) which formed a small robust tree, ten feet high, laden with +ripe fruit. We could perceive no traces either of remains of fires, or +otherwise of natives, in the whole length of our walk along the edge of +the cliffs or the plains, but we saw two snakes of very distinct kinds, +each exceeding five feet in length; the one black with a yellow belly, +the other green and black, but they quickly escaped into holes, leaving a +serpentine impression of their bodies upon the sand. These marks were +seen and remarked near the edge of all the holes, which were very +numerous upon the surface of the island, before I discovered that they +were the tracks of reptiles, from which it may be inferred that these +animals are very abundant. The only bird seen was a solitary species of +loxia, but upon a steep ledge of rocks I observed one of those nests of +which frequent mention has been already made: I examined and found it +built upon the pinnacle of some large rocks, very strongly constructed of +long sticks; it was about five feet high and exceeded four feet in +diameter, with a very slight cavity above; and seemed to have been very +recently inhabited. The rocks that formed its base were ornamented with a +prostrate capparis, or calyptranthus (Calyptranthus orbicularis, +Cunningham manuscript) which afforded me good flowering specimens. In my +walk I started a small black kangaroo: it was feeding upon the seeds of a +small acacia and, upon perceiving my approach, fled across the down +without reaching a single bush or rock large enough to conceal itself as +far as the eye could discern it, so bare and destitute of vegetation are +these arid, sandy plains."* The heat of the weather was so great as not +to allow of any communication with the shore, excepting between daybreak +and eight o'clock. Mr. Cunningham's visits were therefore necessarily +much confined: this precaution I found it absolutely requisite to take to +prevent the people from being exposed to the very great heat of the sun, +which on shore must have been at least twenty degrees more powerful than +on board, where the thermometer ranged between 71 1/2 degrees at +midnight, and 85 and 87 degrees at noon. The barometer ranged between +29.76 and 29.99 inches, and stood highest when the wind was to the +eastward of south, with which winds the horizon was much clearer, and the +air consequently drier than when the wind blew from the sea. + +(*Footnote. Cunningham manuscript.) + +As an anchorage during the summer months Dirk Hartog's Road has +everything to recommend it, excepting the total absence of fresh water +which, according to the French, was not found in any part of Shark's Bay; +the anchorage is secure and the bottom clear of rocks. There is also an +abundance of fish and turtle, and of the latter a ship might embark forty +or fifty every day, for they are very sluggish and make no effort to +escape, perhaps from knowing the impossibility of their scrambling over +the rocky barrier that fronts the shore, and dries at half ebb. Of fish +we caught only two kinds; the snapper, a species of sparus, called by the +French the rouge bossu, and a tetradon which our people could not be +persuaded to eat, although the French lived chiefly upon it. There are +some species of this genus that are poisonous but many are of delicious +flavour: it is described by M. Lacepede in a paper in the Annal. du +Museum d'Histoire Naturelle (tome 4 page 203) as le Tetrodon argente +(Tetrodon argenteus). + +January 26. + +On the 26th we sailed and passed outside of Dorre and Bernier's Islands; +nothing was seen of the reef that lies in mid-channel on the south side +of Dorre Island: a rippling was noticed by Mr. Roe in an East by South +direction from the masthead at twenty minutes before one o'clock but, if +the position assigned to it by the French is correct, we had passed it +long before that time. At six o'clock Kok's Island, the small rocky islet +that lies off the north end of Bernier's Island, bore North 83 degrees +East, distant seven miles. + +January 27. + +The following morning at daylight the land was seen in the North-East and +at half-past eight o'clock we resumed our course and passed Cape Cuvier, +a reddish-coloured rocky bluff that presents a precipitous face to the +sea. The coast thence takes a North by East direction; it is low and +sandy and fronted by a sandy beach, occasionally interrupted by +projecting rocky points; those parts where patches of bare sand were +noticed are marked upon the chart. + +At one o'clock we were near a low sandy projection round which the coast +extends to the East-North-East and forms a shallow bay. This projection +was called after Sir Robert Townsend Farquhar, Bart., the late Governor +of the Mauritius. + +Farther on, in latitude 23 degrees 10 minutes 30 seconds, is a projection +which, at Mr. Cunningham's request, was called after Mr. William Anderson +of the apothecaries' garden at Chelsea. The coast to the northward of +Point Anderson is higher than to the southward and falls back to the +North-East, but was very imperfectly seen on account of the thick haze +that enveloped it. At a quarter before seven o'clock we hauled to the +wind for the night with a fresh gale from the southward. + +January 28. + +The next morning was cloudy and the horizon tolerably clear; but towards +noon a light haze began to spread, which by sunset was so thick as +entirely to conceal the land. The mercury fell as low as 29.76 inches +and, although the thermometer was at 79 degrees and the sun powerful, yet +the atmosphere was so charged with moisture that the decks and everything +out of the immediate influence of the sun were quite damp. This +extraordinary and constant humidity appeared only to occupy the +atmosphere for the sky was always beautifully clear and serene. + +During the night the gale blew strong from the southward with a high +topping sea from the South-West; and being occupied in shifting the main +topsail which had split during the night, we stood off until three +o'clock before we tacked towards the shore. + +January 29. + +At eight o'clock being in latitude 22 degrees 19 minutes 23 seconds, the +land was visible from North-East to South 35 degrees East at the distance +of five or six leagues: by its outline which, from the glare of the sun +was the only part at all discernible, it seemed to be of moderate height, +very level, and offering no particular mark that could be set with any +chance of recognition to obtain a cross bearing. As there is every reason +to believe that this part of the coast is what was taken by former +navigators for Cloates Island,* I have named the southernmost point of +the high land Point Cloates. + +(*Footnote. See volume 1.) + +At noon we were in latitude 21 degrees 57 minutes 5 seconds, having +experienced a current of twenty-three miles to the north since yesterday +at noon. The northern extreme, Vlaming's Head, bore North-East by East +1/2 East and the south extreme South 7 degrees West; and in the bearing +of between South 32 degrees to 82 degrees East the land is higher than in +other parts and declines very gradually towards the extreme. + +As the brig approached the land breakers were seen to extend the whole +length of the shore, which is fronted by a sandy beach: the land is of +moderate height but the summit is rather more rugged than that to the +southward where the outline is perfectly level. At half-past three +o'clock Vlaming Head bore south six miles and three quarters off: at four +o'clock the latitude, by the moon's meridional altitude, was found to be +21 degrees 38 minutes 27 seconds, at which time sights were taken for the +chronometer, which made the longitude of the head 114 degrees 2 minutes +16 seconds: the situation assigned to it on our first voyage was 114 +degrees 1 minute 47 seconds; the mean of the two, 114 degrees 2 minutes 2 +seconds, may therefore be considered its true situation. + +From the above observation for the latitude of the North-West Cape +agreeing nearly with those of our former voyage, I was induced to think +that there might be some land more to the northward that the French saw +and took for the cape; for they have placed it in 21 degrees 37 minutes 7 +seconds South, which is nearly 10 minutes too northerly. Captain +Horsburgh, in the supplement to his Directory, notices some islands seen +by the San Antonio in 1818, called Piddington's Islands, that are said to +lie in the latitude of 21 degrees 36 minutes, but after steering +seventeen miles to the North-East from the above situation, without +seeing anything like land, there remained no doubt in my mind that the +French must have been deceived and that Piddington's Islands are some of +the low, sandy islets to the eastward of Muiron Island. + +January 30. + +Having steered through the night on a north-east course, Barrow's Island +came in sight the next morning, when it was about five leagues off; at +eight o'clock it bore between South 27 East and North 87 degrees East. +From noon to three p.m. we had calm, dull, and cloudy weather; and +although the thermometer did not range higher than 87 degrees, the heat +was extremely oppressive, and occasioned the death of three of our +turtles. At three o'clock a breeze springing up from the westward enabled +us to steer to the northward round the Montebello Islands, in doing which +we saw nothing of Hermite Island, which the French have laid down as the +westernmost island of that group. There is certainly no land to the +westward of Trimouille Island; and the error can only be accounted for by +Captain Baudin's having seen the latter at two different periods; indeed +this conjecture is in some measure proved, since there is a considerable +reef running off the north-west end of that island, which in the French +chart is attached to Hermite Island; this reef might not have been seen +by him at his first visit, and when he made the land again and observed +the reef he must have concluded it to have been a second island. + +After steering a north course until seven o'clock and deepening the water +to sixty-five fathoms, we gradually hauled round the north end of the +Montebello Isles; and at eleven p.m. steered East; but at two o'clock, +having decreased the depth from seventy-two to forty-one fathoms, we +steered off to the northward until daylight, and then to the +East-South-East, in order to anchor in the Mermaid's Strait to the +eastward of Malus Island, to take some stones on board as ballast, for +the brig was so very light and leewardly that it would have been running +a great risk to approach the land, as she then was. But in this we were +disappointed, for after an interval of close sultry weather, and a severe +thunderstorm, a gale of wind set in from the South-West, during which the +barometer fell as low as 29.36 inches. The gale then veered gradually +round to the North-West, and obliged us to make sail off the coast, and +by the time it moderated we were so far to leeward of Dampier's +Archipelago that I was constrained to alter my plan and give up the idea +of taking ballast on board. I therefore determined upon making Rowley's +Shoals, for the purpose of fixing their position with greater +correctness, and examining the extent of the bight round Cape Leveque, +which we were obliged to leave unexplored during the earlier part of this +voyage. + +1822. February 4. + +The first of these objects was effected on the 4th; on which day we +passed round the south end of the Imperieuse (the westernmost) Shoal; +which we now found to extend nearly four miles more to the southward than +had been suspected in 1818, at which period we steered round its north +end. + +A large patch of dry rocks was also seen on the north-east end of the +reef about ten miles from the vessel's track, and Mr. Roe, from the +masthead, thought that the east side of the shoal did not appear to be so +steep as the western side. + +From noon we steered east to make the shoal seen by the Good Hope, but +having sailed in that direction as far as latitude 17 degrees 42 minutes +51 seconds and longitude 119 degrees 32 minutes 4 seconds, without seeing +any signs of it for ten miles on either side of our course, we hauled to +the wind for the night and sounded in one hundred and forty-five fathoms +speckled sand and broken shells. + +February 5. + +At seven o'clock the following morning we were steering east when broken +water was reported bearing from East to East-South-East, but it turned +out to be a rippling which we passed through. These ripplings have been +frequently noticed in the vicinity of the reefs, but we have been very +little affected by the tides by which they must be occasioned. At noon we +were by observation in 17 degrees 43 minutes 41 seconds and longitude 119 +degrees 41 minutes 52 seconds, when we sounded in one hundred and twenty +fathoms, speckled sand mixed with broken shells and stones; and at twenty +miles farther to the eastward sounded again on the same depth. + +February 6. + +At eight o'clock the next morning, having steered through the night +North-East by East, we were in ninety fathoms, sand, broken shells, and +large stones. + +February 8. + +On the morning of the 8th the land was seen in the South-East and soon +afterwards the brig passed round Cape Leveque at the distance of a mile +and a half. On our way towards Point Swan we saw from the masthead a line +of strong tide-ripplings, extending from the point in a North-West by +West direction; within which we at first attempted to pass but, finding +that they were connected to the point, hauled up to steer through them +where they seemed to be the least dangerous. As we approached the noise +was terrific and, although we were not more than two minutes amongst the +breakers, yet the shocks of the sea were so violent as to make me fear +for the safety of our masts. A smaller vessel would perhaps have been +swamped; for although the sea was in other parts quite smooth and the +wind light, yet the water broke over the bows and strained the brig +considerably. + +We then steered between Point Swan and two rocky islands lying five miles +from the shore over a space which, at our last visit, appeared to be +occupied by an extensive reef, but we were then probably deceived by +tide-ripplings. + +It was my intention to have brought up under the lee of the point, where +Dampier describes his having anchored in twenty-nine fathoms clear sandy +ground; but upon rounding the projection, the wind suddenly fell and, +after a light squall from South-West we had a dead calm; the depth was +thirty fathoms coral bottom and therefore not safe to anchor upon; this +was unfortunate for the sudden defection of the wind prevented our +hauling into the bay out of the tide, which was evidently running with +considerable rapidity and drifting us, without our having the means of +preventing it, towards a cluster of small rocks and islands through which +we could not discover any outlet, and which were so crowded that in the +dangerous predicament in which we found ourselves placed they bore a +truly awful and terrific appearance. At this time I was at my usual post, +the masthead, directing the steerage of the vessel; but as the brig was +drifting forward by a rapid sluice of tide towards some low rocks, about +a quarter of a mile off, that were not more than two feet above the +water's edge, and upon which it appeared almost inevitable that we must +strike, I descended to the deck, under the certain conviction that we +could not escape the dangers that were strewed across our path unless a +breeze should spring up, of which there was not the slightest appearance +or probability. + +Happily however the stream of the tide swept us past the rocks without +accident and, after carrying us about half a mile farther, changed its +direction to south-east and drifted us towards a narrow strait separating +two rocky islands, in the centre of which was a large insulated rock that +seemed to divide the stream. The boat was now hoisted out and sent ahead +to tow, but we could not succeed in getting the vessel's head round. As +she approached the strait the channel became much narrower, and several +islands were passed at not more than thirty yards from her course. The +voices of natives were now heard and soon afterwards some were seen on +either side of the strait, hallooing and waving their arms; we were so +near to one party that they might have thrown their spears on board; they +had a dog with them which Mr. Cunningham remarked to be black. By this +time we were flying past the shore with such velocity that it made us +quite giddy; and our situation was too awful to give us time to observe +the motions of the Indians; for we were entering the narrowest part of +the strait, and the next moment were close to the rock which it appeared +to be almost impossible to avoid; and it was more than probable that the +stream it divided would carry us broadside upon it, when the consequences +would have been truly dreadful; the current, or sluice, was setting past +the rock at the rate of eight or nine knots, and the water being confined +by its intervention fell at least six or seven feet; at the moment, +however, when we were upon the point of being dashed to pieces, a sudden +breeze providentially sprung up and, filling our sails, impelled the +vessel forward for three or four yards: this was enough, but only just +sufficient, for the rudder was not more than six yards from the rock. No +sooner had we passed this frightful danger than the breeze fell again and +was succeeded by a dead calm; the tide however continued to carry us on +with a gradually decreasing strength until one o'clock, when we felt very +little effect from it. + +From the spot we had now reached the coast from Cape Leveque appeared to +trend to the southward but was not visible beyond the bearing of +South-West; there was however some land more to the southward that had +the appearance of being an island; it was afterwards found to be a +projection, forming the east head of a bay, and was subsequently called +after my friend Mr. Cunningham, to whose indefatigable zeal the +scientific world is considerably indebted for the very extensive and +valuable botanical collection that has been formed upon this voyage. + +We had a dead calm until high-water during which, as the brig continued +to drive with the tide to the southward in from twenty to twenty-four +fathoms, over a rocky bottom, I was undetermined what course to pursue in +order to preserve the situation which we had so unexpectedly reached, and +to prevent the ebb-tide from carrying us back through the strait: the +bare idea of this impending danger reconciled me to determine upon +sacrificing an anchor, for, from the nature of the bottom, it seemed next +to impossible that we could recover it, if once dropped. Just, however, +as the tide was beginning to turn, a breeze sprang up from the westward +and at once put an end to our fears and anxieties; all sail was made +towards Point Cunningham beyond which no land was visible; but the tide +being adverse and the evening near at hand, we anchored in the bight to +the north-west of the Point which bore South 32 1/2 degrees East seven +miles and a half. + +February 9. + +The next day I remained at the anchorage and despatched Mr. Roe to +examine the coast round Point Cunningham; Mr. Baskerville in the meantime +sounded about the bay between the brig and the western shore and found +very good anchorage in all parts: at about one mile to the westward of +our situation the bottom was of mud, and the depth nine and ten fathoms: +the land appeared a good deal broken, like islands, but from the vessel +the coast seemed to be formed by a continuity of deep bays that may +perhaps afford good anchorage. On one of the sandy beaches at the back of +the bay near Park Hillock, so-called from its green appearance and being +studded with trees, eight or ten natives were observed walking along the +beach close to the low water mark, probably in search of shell-fish; some +of them were children, and perhaps the others were women, except two or +three who carried spears; a dog was trotting along the beach behind them. + +After dark, according to a preconcerted plan, port fires were burnt every +half hour for Mr. Roe's guidance, and before midnight the boat came +alongside. Mr. Roe informed me that there was good anchorage round the +point; and where he landed at Point Cunningham there was plenty of fresh +water; but he saw nothing like land to the South-East; the coast trended +from Point Cunningham to the south, and was of low wooded sandy land. The +heat was excessive; the thermometer at noon, out of the influence of the +sun, stood at 120 degrees, and when they landed at Point Cunningham Mr. +Roe thought the heat was increased at least 10 degrees. At this place he +obtained an indifferent meridian altitude which placed it in 16 degrees +40 minutes 18 seconds South. + +In the meantime Mr. Cunningham, who had accompanied him, botanised with +success. The traces of natives, dogs, turtle-bones, and broken shells, +were found strewed about; and several fireplaces were noticed that had +very recently been used; a fresh-water stream was running down the rocks +into the sea, and at the back of the beach was a hollow, full of sweet +water. Near the fireplaces Mr. Roe picked up some stones that had been +chipped probably in the manufacture of their hatchets. + +The soil was of a red-coloured earth of a very sandy nature; and the +rocks were two sorts of sandstone, one of a deep red colour, the other +whitish, and harder. After leaving Point Cunningham they pulled round the +rocks, which extended for some distance off the point, and then entered a +bay, all over which they found good anchorage; a low distant point formed +the south extreme, but it was too late to reach it and at high-water they +landed at a bright red, cliffy point. + +At half-past five o'clock they re-embarked on their return and, although +the tide was in their favour, were six hours before they reached the +vessel; from which Mr. Roe calculated the distance to be nearly twenty +miles, and by the survey subsequently made it was found to be seventeen. + +February 11. + +We did not leave this anchorage until the 11th and then had some +difficulty in doing it, on account of the shoalness of the water upon the +sandbank that fronts the bay; indeed we were obliged to anchor until the +tide rose high enough to permit our crossing it. At two o'clock we again +got underweigh and crossed the bank, when the wind falling calm we +anchored with Point Cunningham bearing South 17 degrees East three and a +half miles. + +February 12. + +The following morning I sent Mr. Roe to the point to take some bearings; +the boat left the brig at half-past three o'clock but did not succeed in +reaching the land before the sun rose; at which time the horizon, from +being clearer, would have presented a more distinct view of distant +objects. The group of islands to the eastward was observed to extend no +farther to the southward than the bearing of North 88 degrees East, and +beyond this was an open, boundless sea. The station whence this bearing +was taken was on the north-west trend of the point. + +On their first landing Mr. Roe and Mr. Baskerville, with one of the +boat's crew, ascended the summit and, whilst employed in looking round, +heard the voices of natives among the trees about thirty yards off; but +as they could not see them they very properly descended, and carried on +their operations in the vicinity of the boat; they were onshore for two +or three hours afterwards, but the natives did not make their appearance. +The foot-marks of men and boys were evident on the sand below the +high-water mark, and the remains of fireplaces, and where the natives had +been manufacturing spears, were of recent date. The gentlemen brought off +a few shells and some insects, among which was a beautiful sphynx; +besides which one of the boat's crew caught a species of vampyrus, +apparently similar to the flying fox of Port Jackson. Of shells there was +not a great variety; a chama (Tridacna gigas, Lam.) a pinna, and the +trochus (caerulescens) of Dirk Hartog's Island; but at one of the +fireplaces they found a very large voluta that seemed to have served the +purpose of a water-vessel; it was fifteen inches long and ten inches in +diameter. + +The shores appear to abound with shellfish, although Dampier thought that +shells hereabouts were scarce. We could easily have completed our water +at this point, but from the place appearing to be populous and, as the +vessel could not be anchored sufficiently near the shore to have +protected the boat's crews, it was feared that our work might be impeded +by the natives. + +The boat returned at ten o'clock while we were getting underweigh; but +the wind being at South-East it was one o'clock before we weathered Point +Cunningham, when the tide was urging us forward rapidly. In steering +round the point we found ourselves passing through some light coloured +water and, before we could extricate the brig, were in three and a half +fathoms; the anchor was immediately dropped underfoot and, with the +assistance of the sails, which were kept full, the vessel was retained +whilst the whale-boat was veered astern, and ascertained that the +shoalest part had been already passed; therefore the anchor was again +weighed, and eventually dropped in the bay to the south of Point +Cunningham in fourteen fathoms and three quarters, fine speckled sand and +stones. + +In the direction of North 63 degrees West and at a mile and a half from +the anchorage was a remarkable flat-topped hill which was called at Mr. +Cunningham's wish, Carlisle Head, and the bay in which we anchored, +Goodenough Bay, in compliment to the Right Reverend the Lord Bishop of +Carlisle. At this part Mr. Cunningham found a new species of velleia (of +the natural order Goodenoviae). + +We were now suffering much from the extreme heat and closeness of the +weather; the thermometer ranged night and day between 85 and 89 degrees, +and when the breeze was light or the weather calm the air was +insufferably hot and close, and affected us all very much, but happily +without any very serious consequences. + +In the evening four natives armed with spears were seen sitting in the +shade upon the sandy beach under Carlisle Head, attentively watching us; +but upon being joined by three others, who came towards them from Point +Cunningham, got up and walked away. We have yet to learn how far these +people may be confided in, for we were not at a very great distance from +Hanover Bay where we so nearly paid dear for trusting ourselves amongst +them unarmed. + +February 13. + +We remained at the anchorage in Goodenough Bay until the following +morning, when we weighed to a very light breeze from south-east, the only +direction from which we experienced any wind; the breeze generally blew +strong at night, whilst during the day it was light, or nearly calm; so +that during the night we were very insecurely placed if the anchorage was +at all suspicious, and in the day were either delayed very much or +entirely prevented from weighing. + +Thus it was with us on this day; soon after we weighed it fell calm and +the tide, drifting us rapidly to the southward over rocky ground, carried +us close to a reef of dry rocks to the northward of Foul Point without +our being able to avoid it. At a little before five o'clock the +flood-tide was nearly expended and obliged us to drop the chain-cabled +anchor at the distance of three miles from Foul Point, upon a bottom of +rotten yellow-coloured rock that crumbled away upon being touched, but +from the noise that the chain made in dragging over the ground there was +reason to apprehend it was very rocky; and consequently great fears were +entertained for the safety of our anchor. + +Our situation was in the outer part of a bay, the southern head of which +bore South 22 degrees East, and which, from the loss and perplexity we +met with in it, was afterwards called Disaster Bay, and its south +extreme, off which is a small rocky island, was named Repulse Point. + +During the afternoon we had another instance of mirage which proved +useful so far that it indicated to us the trend of the land to the +south-eastward, in which direction nothing had previously been seen; it +appeared to be very low and level, and similar to the character of the +coast on the southward of Cape Leveque. At sunset when the haze cleared +off and the appearance of the land gradually sank below the horizon we +were instantly relieved from the oppressive heat we had experienced +during the day, for the thermometer had indicated a temperature of 91 +degrees and, when exposed to the influence of the sun, rose to 120 +degrees. + +Three natives were noticed as we passed along the shore; they were +walking upon a sandy beach abreast of us but very soon disappeared among +the trees and bushes which here grow close down to the waterside; they +were armed with spears and appeared to be watching our movements; for +they moved along in the direction of our course and did not afterwards +make their appearance during the evening. + +February 14. + +The next morning whilst the ebb-tide lasted we had a light breeze but, at +noon, as the weather was calm and the brig could not be got underweigh, +either with safety or utility, the boats were despatched in different +directions to improve our knowledge of the place. + +At low water a considerable sandbank was exposed to our view, that had +not previously been seen; it fronts the bay and is dry at low tide for +some extent, it is also shoal some distance to the northward, as our boat +had only four feet in passing over it. In the afternoon, as there was +every appearance of fine weather and no likelihood of a breeze, Mr. +Baskerville and Mr. Cunningham set off in a boat to visit Repulse Point, +in order to make what observations they could upon the further trend of +the land; but no sooner had they left the vessel than a breeze sprung up +and freshened to a gale in which our cable parted; and as there was no +chance of dropping another anchor with a prospect of recovering it, we +were obliged to return to our former anchorage in Goodenough Bay; but, +owing to the tide being contrary, the brig did not reach it until nearly +sunset. Our alarm and anxieties were now raised to a great pitch for the +safety of Mr. Baskerville and his companions: signals of recall had been +hoisted and several guns fired before the cable parted, but the boat was +too far off to notice either: as soon as it was dark signal guns were +fired and port fires burnt every ten minutes to guide its return. + +Happily these signals at last had the desired effect, for at ten o'clock +the boat came alongside. Mr. Baskerville had failed in reaching Repulse +Point but obtained some useful information as to the trend of the land +round the point, which still appeared to extend to the southward; they +had not been able to land, but had encountered much danger from the small +size of the boat, which shipped a great deal of water, so that by the +time it arrived they were completely drenched with the spray of the sea. +They had only observed our signals for a few minutes before their +arrival; for the flashes of the guns and the lights of the port-fires +were so confused with lightning and the fires of the natives on the shore +that they could not be distinguished from each other. Soon after they +arrived on board heavy rain commenced, and fell during the greater part +of the night. + +February 15. + +The ensuing day the weather was still squally and unsettled. In the +afternoon the launch and another boat were sent in search of our lost +anchor but returned at night without success; for the tide was so strong +that the buoy did not watch. The next morning it was again intended to +resume the search, but the weather clouded in and threatened to be so bad +that all further attempts were abandoned. + +This succession of bad weather, and our having only one anchor left, made +me feel the necessity of leaving this part, and giving up for the present +the examination of this interesting place; and as we wanted both wood and +water, which we had found no opportunity of obtaining here on account of +the tempestuous state of the weather, it was purposed we should go to +Port George the Fourth, which place would afford both security for the +vessel and facility for procuring these articles. This delay might also +be made serviceable by employing a part of the crew at the same time in +the boats in examining the islands in Rogers Strait, and tracing the +continuation of the mainland behind the islands that form the south-east +coast of Camden Bay, of which we knew nothing. After doing this I hoped +to be able to continue the examination of the deep bay behind +Montgomery's Islands, and connect that part with the gulf or strait +behind the Buccaneer's Archipelago in which we now were; but our loss of +anchors made all this very dangerous and, indeed, nothing could be done +without very fine weather, of which there was at present unfortunately no +appearance. + +But a greater and more serious hindrance was that our provisions were +very much reduced in quantity, and that we had not more than enough to +last, upon a full allowance, for the voyage to Port Jackson; the hope +however of procuring more information of this part of the coast was so +inviting that I did not despair of effecting something in a fortnight +worth the delay. We had dry provisions and water on board for about ten +weeks, so that with fine weather we could have retarded our departure for +ten or twelve days without much risk. + +February 16. + +Our quitting this place being determined upon we did not lose any time; +but from various delays of calm weather and adverse tides could not +succeed in getting out to sea until the 18th. + +It was impossible to go out by the dangerous channel through which we +entered; but as Sunday Strait, through which the brig had been drifted +before we went to Mauritius, appeared free from danger, we directed our +course to it. + +February 17. + +And, after being underweigh all the night near its inner entrance, during +which we had once nearly struck on a reef of rocks, found ourselves at +daylight drifting through it with a rapid ebb-tide without a breath of +wind. The tide however lasted long enough to carry us out, and when the +flood commenced, which would have drifted us back again, a fresh breeze +sprang up from the westward and very soon carried us clear of the +influence of the tide. + +With respect to the opening we had now left there were many conflicting +opinions among us, but I have every reason to think that the land from +Cape Leveque to Point Gantheaume is an island and that there is also a +communication between Cygnet and Collier's Bays, behind the islands of +the Archipelago, where it is also probable there is an opening trending +to the south-east. The great rise and fall of the tides in the +neighbourhood of Point Gantheaume gives a plausibility to this opinion; +and the only thing that I know against it is the trifling depth of the +water between that point and Cape Villaret. This however may be caused by +the numerous banks and channels existing there, and which, of themselves +alone, are indicative of the opening being something more than a mere +bay. + +As sunset approached the eastern horizon was as usual in commotion; heavy +dense clouds were collected, from which we had thunder and lightning. At +seven o'clock the appearance was more threatening and, as a squall was +evidently approaching, the sails were taken in and preparation made to +meet it: soon after eight o'clock it passed rapidly over and brought a +strong gust of wind, before which we were obliged to scud. After blowing +most tempestuously for an hour the wind moderated, and the night passed +without any repetition of it; we had however run five miles to leeward: +had we been obliged to do this last night when underway in Cygnet Bay, or +been drifted back this evening by the ebb-tide, we should have been very +dangerously placed, from being surrounded by islands and blinded by the +darkness of the night. Whilst this squall lasted the barometer was in no +way affected, but the thermometer fell two degrees, having stood all the +afternoon at 89 3/4 degrees. + +February 18. + +During the remainder of the night we stood off and on and experienced a +current setting in the direction of North 52 degrees West one mile per +hour. At eight o'clock the next morning (18th) Adele Island was seen; and +in the afternoon we passed at a mile and a half from the western side of +the reef which surrounds it. This island is low and sandy and covered +with small bushes; it is about two or three miles in length; a dry sand +extends for five miles from its south end, and as far as one mile from +its north-west point; but the covered part of the reef is more extensive, +and appeared rocky. At the distance of three miles and a half, in a +north-west direction from its north end, are two dry sandbanks which are +probably covered at high-water. Light-coloured water extended for three +miles to the westward and for fourteen miles to the north-west; but the +water is probably deep enough over it for any vessel to pass: we steered +over the tail within the coloured water, but had no bottom with +forty-five fathoms. In many parts near the island the rocks must be very +little below the surface of the water, for the sea occasionally broke +upon them. + +We then steered to the East and East-North-East and at night made short +trips on either tack. The weather was extremely sultry during the +afternoon, the thermometer being at 89 degrees, and when exposed to the +sun the mercury rose to 125 degrees. Towards sunset large flights of +boobies, terns, and other sea-birds passed by, flying towards the +islands. One or two stopped to notice us and flew round the brig several +times. + +February 19. + +The night was fine with light south-west winds; but we had lightning in +the North-East, from which quarter at daylight the weather clouded in; +and, from the increasing dampness of the atmosphere, indicated rain. + +At noon we were in 15 degrees 12 minutes 15 seconds South and 7 minutes 1 +second east of the anchorage in Cygnet Bay. The wind was from the +southward with dull cloudy weather. Large flights of birds were about the +vessel, preying upon small fish swimming among the seaweed, of which we +passed a great quantity. As the evening approached the weather clouded in +and threatened us with another squall from the eastward. The thermometer +stood at 88 degrees, and the barometer at 29.81 inches: half an hour +before sunset the clouds, which had collected in the eastern horizon, +began to thicken and approach us with loud thunder and vivid lightning: +all the sails, except the topsails which were lowered, were furled just +in time to avoid any bad effects from the squall, which commenced with a +strong gust from East-South-East and East; it lasted about an hour, +during the latter part of which we had very heavy rain. At eight o'clock +the wind fell to a calm and was afterwards baffling and light from north +to east and south-east. + +February 20. + +At daylight (20th) the morning was dull and cloudy: a bank of heavy +threatening clouds, rising from the eastward, induced my steering to the +westward to await the issue of this weather, so unfavourable for our +doing any good upon the coast, as well as increasing the danger of +navigating among reefs and islands where the tides were so strong. The +next morning at daylight we had a squall with rain and wind from the +eastward after which a fresh breeze set in from the same quarter: as this +weather appeared likely to last I very unwillingly determined upon +leaving the coast and returning immediately to Port Jackson. + +February 21 to 24. + +From the 21st until the 24th we had moderate winds between north and +south-east which gradually drew us out of the influence of the damp, +unwholesome weather we so lately experienced. Our course was held to the +northward of Rowley's Shoals which, upon passing, we found a strong +current setting towards them at the rate of one mile an hour. This +indraught increases the danger of navigating near this part but I do not +recollect having experienced any when we passed them in June, 1818. The +current, therefore, that we felt, may be only of temporary duration, and +probably caused by the variable state of the wind. + +1822. February 24 to March 3. + +Between the 24th of February and the 3rd of March we had light and +variable winds from all directions but, being more frequent from the +eastward than from any other point of the compass, I became reconciled to +the step I had taken of leaving the coast, since it would not have been +possible to have reached Port George the Fourth to effect any good. + +The thermometer now ranged between 87 and 89 degrees and the weather was +consequently extremely oppressive and sultry. + +March 3 to 11. + +On the 3rd at noon we were in latitude 18 degrees 45 minutes 18 seconds +and longitude 111 degrees 4 minutes 15 seconds when a breeze sprang up +from the South-east and carried us within the influence of the trade, +which blew steadily between South-South-east and South by East and +advanced us on our passage but carried us considerably to the westward. +On this course we were accompanied by immense shoals of albicores +(Scomber thynnus, Linn.) but they were of small size; very few measured +more than twenty inches in length, and the average weight about ten +pounds: The meat was very good and tender and as a great number of the +fish were caught, proved a grateful relief to our salt diet. The +atmosphere was very damp and before the vessel entered the trade we had +lightning every night, but it ceased the moment that we were within its +limits. Tropic and other oceanic birds, some of a dark brown colour, +hovered about us and were our daily companions, particularly the latter +which preyed upon the small fish that were pursued by the albicores. + +March 11 to 14. + +From the 11th to the 14th the trade ceased and the interval was supplied +by a northerly wind, veering round to west, which enabled us to make up +for the ground we had lost by its having been so much from the southward. +After this we had variable breezes between South and East-South-East but +the current, which before had been setting us to the north-west, now set +to the north-east; this change was probably occasioned by the +south-westerly swell. + +On the 14th we were in 27 degrees 49 minutes South, and 101 degrees 1 +minute East. Some tropic birds were seen this morning but as yet neither +albatrosses nor pintadoes had made their appearance. During the short +cessation of the trade the atmosphere was very dry until the +south-easterly winds returned, when it became more humid; but as we +approached the southern limit of this South-East wind, which may be +considered to bear more of the character of a periodical wind than the +trade, the atmosphere became altogether drier; it carried us as far as 32 +degrees 40 minutes South and 96 degrees 42 minutes West before it veered +to the northward of east when, after a calm, we had north-easterly winds +and fine weather of which we made good use. + +The first albatross was seen in 31 1/4 degrees South and was flying about +the brig at the same time with a tropic bird, which is a remarkable +occurrence, for I never saw the latter bird before so far without the +tropic; but here was one nearly five hundred miles to the southward of +it, and at least three hundred leagues from the nearest land; an +albatross (Diomedea exulans, Linn.) was shot, but did not measure more +than nine feet nine inches across the tips of the wings. + +February 25. + +On the 25th of February we examined our water and found the casks so much +damaged by rats that instead of having thirteen tons we had only nine on +board, but as this was thought to be sufficient for our voyage the daily +issue was not reduced. + +March 28. + +On the 28th of March however it was found necessary to make a +considerable reduction in the allowance. + +April 13. + +On the 13th of April the north-west end of Van Diemen's Land came in +sight but it was not until the 15th that we entered Bass Strait by the +passage between King's and Hunter's Islands. Off Cape Howe we boarded a +trading brig belonging to Port Jackson bound to Van Diemen's Land, from +which we obtained pleasing and satisfactory news of our friends at +Sydney, as also the gratifying intelligence of the promotion of myself to +the rank of commander, and of Messrs. Bedwell and Roe to that of +lieutenant. The promotion of the latter gentleman was under circumstances +of the most flattering nature, and here not only offers a most +satisfactory proof of the approbation bestowed by the Lords Commissioners +of the Admiralty upon my zealous assistant, but precludes me from the +otherwise pleasing task of giving my humble testimonial of his conduct +and merits. + +Between Cape Howe and Port Jackson we experienced much bad weather, which +delayed our arrival so long that we had expended all our bread and were +reduced to a very small proportion of water: + +April 25. + +We however succeeded in effecting our arrival at Sydney by the 25th, +after an absence of 344 days. + + + +CHAPTER 5. +The Bathurst sails for England. +Remarks upon some errors in the hydrography of the south coast of Van +Diemen's Land. +King George the Third's Sound. +Passage to the Cape of Good Hope. +Cross the Atlantic, and arrive at Plymouth Sound. +Observations upon the voyages, and conclusion. + +1822. April 25 to September 25. + +Upon an examination of the brig's defects after our arrival at Port +Jackson her stern and cut-water were found so defective as to require a +considerable repair; but from the difficulty of procuring seasoned wood, +so long a time elapsed before it was effected that we were not ready for +sea until the beginning of September, when other delays of minor +importance detained us until the 25th. + +At Port Jackson I found orders from the Lords Commissioners of the +Admiralty to return to England in the Bathurst when the survey should be +completed; but as we were in want of many things that the colony could +not furnish, and as we should be detained until the month of February +before the monsoon would allow of our going upon the coast; it was deemed +most advantageous for the public service to return without making another +voyage. Accordingly on the 25th September we sailed from Sydney with the +intention of proceeding to the north through Torres Strait, and calling +at the Mauritius on our way; but no sooner had we put to sea than a hard +gale set in from the north which induced me to bear up and either to go +round Van Diemen's Land to the westward, if the wind should favour such a +proceeding, or, by doubling the south end of New Zealand to make the +eastern passage round Cape Horn. + +1822. October 6. + +Having reached the south-east end of Van Diemen's Land on the 6th of +October, and a fresh north-easterly wind setting in at the same time, I +determined upon adopting the first plan; and therefore proceeded round +the south side of the island, in doing which I had the opportunity of +verifying some observations formerly taken by which it appeared that the +coast between Storm Bay and the South-west Cape was very erroneously laid +down both by Captain Flinders and the French expeditions under +d'Entrecasteaux and Baudin. + +On my voyage to Macquarie Harbour in 1819 I found so many errors in the +bearings that were taken as induced me to suspect an original error, and +on this occasion a very considerable one was detected. + +When Captain Flinders passed round Van Diemen's Land in the Norfolk he +obtained a meridional supplementary altitude of the sun to the south, his +vessel being under the land, which made the South-west Cape in 43 degrees +29 minutes South; but finding the next day that his instrument was 2 +minutes 40 seconds in error to the north he assigned to the cape a +position of 43 degrees 32 minutes. In the Introduction to his voyage* he +makes some remarks in a note upon the positions assigned to it by +Captains Cook and Furneaux; the latter officer placed it in 43 degrees 39 +minutes, in which I also found it to be by its transient bearing from the +South Cape. By a series of bearings carried along the coast its position +is thirty-three miles West 3 degrees South true, from the South Cape. + +(*Footnote. Flinders volume 1 Introduction page 179.) + +All parts of the coast in this interval are proportionally in error as to +latitude but tolerably well placed in reference to the coast. The +subjoined are the positions now assigned to the following places, namely: + +COLUMN 1: NAME OF PLACE. +COLUMN 2: LATITUDE. +COLUMN 3: LONGITUDE ACCORDING TO CAPTAIN FLINDERS' SURVEY. + +South Cape : 43 degrees 38 minutes : 146 degrees 56 minutes. + +Mewstone : 43 degrees 46 minutes : 146 degrees 31 1/2 minutes. + +South-west Cape : 43 degrees 39 minutes : 146 degrees 12 minutes. + +The south-east cape of Bruny Island, Tasman's Head, is also placed too +much to the southward in Captain Flinders' chart as well as in that of +Baudin. From the Mermaid it was set in a line with the south-east cape on +the bearing of North 56 degrees East (the vessel's head being to the +eastward); and on this occasion (the brig's head being to the westward) +it bore, when in the same line, North 53 degrees East. The variation in +the latter case was 9 degrees East, but in the former no more than 6 +degrees was allowed, and Captain Flinders found even 4 degrees +sufficient. + +I passed outside the Mewstone and took its bearing as it came on with the +points of the land between the south-west and the south-east capes, by +which I satisfied myself beyond a doubt of the correctness of my +observations and of the error into which Captain Flinders had fallen, and +which must either be attributed to the imperfection of his instrument or +to his reading off the altitude 10 minutes in error; and as there is just +that difference between it and the position assigned by Captain Furneaux, +which is also confirmed by my observation, the probability is in favour +of the last conjecture. + +After leaving the coast of Van Diemen's Land we had much damp, +unwholesome weather, and a succession of heavy westerly gales, in which +the brig was occasionally much pressed. + +1822. November 8-31. + +And it was not until the 8th of November that we made Bald Island, which +is to the eastward of King George's Sound. We were now much in need of a +place to caulk the bends, as well as to repair some temporary damage to +the rigging and complete our wood and water. I therefore seized the +opportunity of our being near the sound and, steering into it, anchored +off the sandy bay within Seal Island and immediately commenced +operations. We were however much delayed by hard westerly gales, which +not only prevented the carpenter's caulking, but also delayed our +watering, since the boat could not pull to the shore; but as the +anchorage was well sheltered we suffered no further inconvenience than +the delay. + +A few days after our arrival we were surprised by the appearance of a +strange vessel beating into the sound; she proved to be an American +schooner on a sealing voyage and was coming in for the purpose of +careening and cleaning the vessel's bottom in Oyster Harbour. The natives +also made their appearance and some of them being our old friends, +immediately recognised us. + +As there was no wood convenient to our anchorage I moved the vessel to +the entrance of Princess Royal Harbour, near the northern head of which, +at the south end of the long sandy beach, the trees were growing in +abundance close to the beach: it was at this place also that Captain +Flinders obtained his wood; and excepting the entrance of Oyster Harbour +it is the most convenient place in the whole sound. + +Whilst at this last anchorage we were visited by the natives, many of +them strangers; they were accompanied by our old friend Coolbun, the +native that, upon our former visit, was so noisy in explaining to his +companions the effect of the shot that was fired. On one occasion, when +they were on board, an immense shark was hooked, but broke the hook and +escaped, which was a great disappointment to them, for they evidently +anticipated a luxurious meal. After this they went on shore, when the +breeze blew so fresh as to make some seasick, very much to the amusement +of those who did not suffer, particularly one of the older men. On this +occasion the names of several of the natives were obtained, which have +been inserted with a few additional words at the end of the list obtained +from them during our former visit.* Our friend Jack did not make his +appearance, nor did the natives at all seem to understand for whom we +were enquiring. + +(*Footnote. See above.) + +As soon as our wood was completed the brig was moved to an anchorage off +the watering bay which proved a more convenient place than under Seal +Island, as it was better sheltered and nearer to the watering-place. +After riding out a heavy gale from the westward at single anchor without +any accident and as soon as our water was completed, we again anchored +for a day under Seal Island, but were obliged to make two attempts before +we succeeded in getting out to sea. + +Whilst at the anchorage off Princess Royal Harbour I went to Oyster +Harbour to procure flowering specimens of a tree which had hitherto been +a subject of much curiosity to botanists: at our former visits the season +was too far advanced; and Mr. Brown was equally unfortunate. The plant +resembles xanthorrhoea, both in its trunk and leaves, but bears its +flower in a very different manner; for, instead of throwing out one long +flower scape, it produces eighteen or twenty short stalks, each +terminated by an oval head of flowers. I recollected having seen a large +grove of these trees growing at a short distance from the outer beach on +the east side of the entrance of the harbour; and on going there found +the decayed flowers and seeds sufficiently perfect to throw a +considerable light upon this singular plant;* several were procured and +brought to England. A drawing of this tree is given in the view of King +George's Sound in Captain Flinders' account of the Investigator's +voyage.** In the list of the plants collected by me upon this occasion +was a splendid species of anigosanthus, which proved to be quite new, and +had escaped the observation both of Mr. Brown and of Mr. Cunningham. +Living plants of various genera were also procured: among which were +several of the remarkable Cephalotus follicularis (Brown) which however +alone survived the voyage, and are now growing in the royal gardens at +Kew. + +(*Footnote. More perfect specimens were afterwards collected by Mr. +Baxter, and sent, through Mr. Henchman his employer, to my friend Mr. +Brown, the original discoverer of the tree in Captain Flinders' voyage, +and the author of the paper in the appendix at the end of the volume +relating to it.) + +(**Footnote. Flinders volume 1 page 60.) + +December 1 to February 9, 1823. + +Having effected our departure from King George's Sound we proceeded on +our way towards Simon's Bay at the Cape of Good Hope, which we reached on +the 14th January after a passage of forty-six days without encountering a +gale of wind or the occurrence of any event worth recording. + +February 9 to April 23. + +We left Simon's Bay on the 9th of February and, after touching at St. +Helena and Ascension, crossed the line in 22 degrees 6 minutes West; and +on the 7th of April made the Island of Flores, one of the Azores. On the +same morning we fell in with two French men of war, a frigate and a +corvette, who bore down but, upon showing our colours, hauled their wind +and resumed their course without communicating with us. Between this and +the Channel we were delayed by a succession of northerly winds. The +Lizard Lights were made in the night of the 22nd of April and the +following day we anchored in Plymouth Sound; after an absence of more +than six years. + +It may not be considered irrelevant here to make a few brief observations +upon what has been effected by these voyages, and what yet remains to be +done upon the northern coasts of Australia. Beginning with the +north-eastern coast, I have been enabled to lay down a very safe and +convenient track for vessels bound through Torres Strait, and to +delineate the coastline between Cape Hillsborough, in 20 degrees 54 +minutes South, and Cape York, the north extremity of New South Wales; a +distance of six hundred and ninety miles. As my instructions did not +authorise my delaying to examine any part of this coast I could not +penetrate into the many numerous and extensive openings that presented +themselves in this space; particularly in the neighbourhoods of Cape +Gloucester, Upstart, and Cleveland; where the intersected and broken +appearances of the hills at the back are matters of interesting enquiry +and research. + +My instructions at first confined me between Cape Arnhem and the +North-west Cape, but were subsequently extended to the western coast. The +examination of the northern and part of the north-western coasts, from +Wessel Islands to Port George the Fourth, a distance of seven hundred and +ninety miles, has been carefully made and, with a few exceptions, every +opening has been explored. Those parts in this interval that yet require +examination are some inlets on the south side of Clarence Strait, and one +of more considerable size to the eastward of Cambridge Gulf, trending in +to the south-east: otherways, the coast comprised within these limits has +been sufficiently examined for all the purposes of navigation. + +The coast also between the North-west Cape and Depuch Island, containing +two hundred and twenty miles, has also been sufficiently explored; but +between the latter island and Port George the Fourth, a distance of five +hundred and ten miles, it yet remains almost unknown. The land that is +laid down is nothing more than an archipelago of islands fronting the +mainland, the situation of which is quite uncertain. Our examinations of +these islands were carried on as far as Cape Villaret, but between that +and Depuch Island the coast has only been seen by the French, who merely +occasionally saw small detached portions of it. At present however this +is conjecture; but the space is of considerable extent and, if there is +an opening into the interior of New Holland, it is in the vicinity of +this part. Off the Buccaneer's Archipelago the tides are strong and rise +to the height of thirty-six feet. Whatever may exist behind these +islands, which we were prevented by our poverty in anchors and other +circumstances from exploring, there are certainly some openings of +importance; and it is not at all improbable that there may be a +communication at this part with the interior for a considerable distance +from the coast. + +The examination of the western coast was performed during an almost +continued gale of wind, so that we had no opportunity of making any very +careful observation upon its shores. There can however be very little +more worth knowing of them, as I apprehend the difficulty of landing is +too great ever to expect to gain much information; for it is only in +Shark's Bay that a vessel can anchor with safety. + +With respect to the subjects of natural history that have been procured +upon the voyage, it is much to be lamented that the small size of the +vessel and our constant professional duties prevented my extending them. +Of quadrupeds we saw but few. Birds were very numerous but the operation +of skinning and preserving them would have taken up more time than could +be afforded. A few insects, some shells, and a small series of specimens +of the geology of the parts we landed at were among the only things +obtained, excepting the extensive and valuable collection of plants +formed by Mr. Cunningham which are now in the possession of Mr. Aiton, of +the Royal Gardens at Kew; for which establishment it would seem that they +were solely procured. It was in fact the only department of natural +history in which any pains were taken and for which every assistance was +rendered. A small herbarium was however collected by me, containing +nearly five hundred species: they are in the possession of my respected +friend Aylmer B. Lambert, Esquire, whose scientific attainments in the +field of botany are well and widely known. It is to be hoped however that +the few subjects offered to the scientific world in the appendix, through +the kindness of my friends, will not be thought uninteresting or +unimportant; and that they will serve to show how very desirable it is to +increase the comparatively slender knowledge that we possess of this +extensive country, which in this respect might still with propriety +retain its ancient name of Terra Australis INCOGNITA. + +Whilst this sheet was going through the press accounts were received at +the Admiralty from Captain J.G. Bremer, C.B. of H.M. Ship Tamar who was +despatched by the government in the early part of last year (1824) to +take possession of Arnhem's Land, upon the north coast of the continent, +and to form an establishment upon the most eligible spot that could be +found for a mercantile depot. Of the proceedings of this expedition the +following particulars have been communicated to me by Lieutenant J.S. +Roe, my former companion and assistant, who was appointed lieutenant of +the Tamar upon her being destined for that service; and which, as the +sequel of the voyage I have been describing, cannot be deemed irrelevant +or uninteresting, since the place fixed upon by Captain Bremer was +discovered during the early part of the said voyage.* + +(*Footnote. See volume 1.) + +The Tamar arrived at Port Jackson on the 28th of July, 1824; when every +facility was rendered by the colonial government to further the object in +view. The expedition sailed thence in less than a month with a detachment +of the 3rd regiment and forty-five convicts, in addition to the party of +Royal Marines that had been embarked before the Tamar left England. The +establishment was placed under the command of Captain Barlow of the 3rd +regiment. A merchant ship, the Countess of Harcourt, was taken up to +convey the stores and provisions, and the Lady Nelson, colonial brig, was +also placed at the disposal of the commandant. + +Lieutenant Roe, in describing this voyage to me, writes: "We had a very +favourable passage to the northward, and in less than three weeks cleared +Torres Strait by the route you recommended to Captain Bremer, without +encountering any accident. We nevertheless saw several shoals that, in +our former voyages in the Mermaid and Bathurst, were not noticed; by +reason of the greater altitude of the Tamar's masthead affording a much +more extensive view on either side of our course." The particulars of +these discoveries of Lieutenant Roe are given in the Appendix, under the +description of the North-East Coast, in the order in which they occur. + +Having cleared Torres Strait the Tamar anchored in Port Essington. +Lieutenant Roe then says, "Having brought the ship to anchor off Table +Point in Port Essington, all the boats were hoisted out and the marines +landed, when, an union-jack being fixed upon a conspicuous tree near the +extremity of the point, formal possession was taken of the north coast of +Australia, between the meridians of 129 and 136 degrees East of +Greenwich. The marines fired three volleys, and the Tamar a royal salute, +upon the occasion. + +"Our first object being to find water, parties were despatched in various +directions for that purpose; but after traversing many miles of country, +and coasting a great deal of the port, only one place was discovered (the +low sandy east point of entrance to Inner Harbour) where any was to be +procured, and it was then only obtained by digging deep holes in the +sand. A large Malay encampment had recently removed from this spot, +leaving their fireplaces and temporary couches, and large piles of +firewood to season, in readiness for their next visit. No natives were +seen, not even at our old place in Knockers Bay. The adjoining country +was found to be very good forest land, well timbered, but parched with +drought, which was by no means in favour of our views. Having buried a +sealed bottle upon the sandy point, containing an account of our +proceedings, we named it Point Record,* and sailed at the expiration of +two days for Apsley Strait. + +(*Footnote. Point Record is the low sandy point on the left of the +picture in the view of Port Essington, volume 1.) + +"Light winds retarded our arrival off Cape Van Diemen until the 24th, and +it was not before the 26th that we brought up close to Luxmoore Head, in +St. Asaph Bay. Possession was here taken in a similar manner and with the +same forms as at Port Essington, and we commenced a strict search for +water in every direction in the neighbourhood of the head, which appeared +so desirable and commanding a position, that it was with great reluctance +we eventually gave up all idea of settling there, on not finding fresh +water in its neighbourhood. + +"At the expiration of five or six days a small river and plenty of water +was discovered on Melville Island abreast of Harris Island; and an +eligible situation for the intended new settlement being discovered near +it, the ships were removed thither on the 2nd of October, and parties +landed to commence immediate operations with the axe and saw. The +projection of land fixed upon for the site of a town, was named after the +commandant (Captain Barlow). The cove in which the ships were at anchor +was named King's Cove by Captain Bremer, after yourself, as the original +discoverer of the strait; and that part of Apsley Strait, between +Luxmoore Head and Harris Island,* received the name of Port Cockburn, in +honour of Vice Admiral Sir George Cockburn, G.C.B., one of the Lords of +the Admiralty. + +(*Footnote. Harris Island was named by me after my friend John Harris, +Esquire, formerly surgeon of the 102nd Regiment, who has served so long +and so faithfully in various offices under the government of New South +Wales.) + +"All disposable hands being employed on shore in clearing Point Barlow of +wood and other impediments, we were speedily enabled to commence the +erection of a fort, seventy-five yards in length by fifty wide; to be +built of the trunks of the felled trees, and to be surrounded by a ditch +ten feet wide and deep. On the memorable 21st of October, our +quarter-deck guns were landed and mounted, the colours were hoisted for +the first time, and the work was named Fort Dundas, under a royal salute +from itself. + +"From this time the place began to assume the appearance of a fortified +village; quarters were constructed within the walls of the fort for the +accommodation of the officers belonging to the establishment, and about +thirty huts of various kinds were erected, and thatched with rushes for +the soldiers and convicts. A deep well was sunk near the fort; a good +substantial wharf ran out into the water; and, as soon as a commissariat +storehouse was finished, all the provisions were landed from the Countess +of Harcourt and secured there. + +"The soil in the neighbourhood of the settlement being exceedingly good, +gardens were cleared and laid out, and soon produced all kinds of +vegetables. In our stock we were rather unfortunate, for of six sheep +that were landed for the purpose of breeding, five died, supposed from +the effect produced by eating some pernicious herb in the woods: pigs, +ducks, and fowls seemed however in a fair way of doing well, and had +increased considerably since they were landed; but great inconvenience +was experienced for want of some horses or draught oxen, which would not +only have materially expedited the work in hand, but would have spared +the men much laborious fatigue and exposure to the effects of a vertical +sun: all difficulties and obstacles were however met and overcome with +the greatest zeal and perseverance, and the works proceeded with such +spirit and alacrity, that we were enabled to sail for Bombay on the 13th +of November, without exposing the new settlement either to the jealousy +of the Malays, or the mischievous attack of the natives. No traces of the +former people were observed at this place, nor any of the trepang that +would be their sole inducement for visiting it. Not one native made his +appearance before the early part of November when, as if by signal, a +party of about eighteen on each shore communicated with us on the same +day and were very friendly, although exceedingly suspicious and timid. +They would not venture within the line of the outer hut and always came +armed, but laid aside their spears and clubs whenever friendly signs were +made. On the second day of their visit I was greatly astonished to see +amongst them a young man of about twenty years of age, not darker in +colour than a Chinese but with perfect Malay features and like all the +rest entirely naked: he had daubed himself all over with soot and grease, +to appear like the others, but the difference was plainly perceptible. On +perceiving that he was the object of our conversation, a certain archness +and lively expression came over his countenance, which a native +Australian would have strained his features in vain to have produced. The +natives appeared to be very fond of him. It seems probable that he must +have been kidnapped when very young, or found while astray in the woods.* + +(*Footnote. At our visit to this place in 1818 and during our +communication with the natives a boy of the above description was noticed +among them; he was brought down upon the shoulders of one of the Indians, +in which position he is represented in the view. See volume 1.) + +"These Indians made repeated signs for hatchets, which they called +paaco-paaco, and although they had stolen two or three on their first +appearance, it was considered desirable to gain their goodwill by giving +them more, and three were accordingly presented to individuals among them +who appeared to be in authority. They were of course much pleased, but +the next day several axes, knives, and sickles were taken by force from +men employed outside the settlement, upon which they were made to +understand that until these articles were restored no more would be +given. This arrangement being persevered in by us, they determined upon +seizing these implements on every occasion that presented itself; so that +it was found necessary to protect our working parties in the woods by a +guard; the result of which was that the natives threw their spears +whenever resistance was offered, and the guard was obliged to fire upon +the aggressors. + +"Open acts of hostility having now been committed, and the natives +increasing daily in numbers to upwards of one hundred round the +settlement, a good lookout was kept upon them; but not sufficiently to +prevent about sixty of them surprising five of the marines in a swamp +cutting rushes, and throwing their spears amongst them: their salute was +immediately returned, and they disappeared without any damage having been +done on either side; at the same minute however reports of musketry were +heard at our watering-place and garden and proved to be in repelling an +attack that about forty natives had made upon our jolly-boat watering and +two men cutting grass. One of the natives was shot dead at ten yards' +distance while in the act of throwing his spear; and our people thought +that several others were wounded as they disappeared making most strange +noises, and have not been near us since. One of the spears thrown upon +the last occasion had sixteen barbs to it but, in general, they were +merely scraped to a sharp point without even one barb, and were not +thrown with anything like precision or good aim, which accounts for none +of their weapons having taken effect, although discharged at our people +at the distance only of a few yards." + +Soon after this the Tamar left Fort Dundas for the India station and +despatched the Countess of Harcourt upon her ulterior destination. The +settlement was left in a very forward state and consisted altogether of +one hundred and twenty-six individuals of whom there were 3 or 4 women +and forty-five convicts; the remainder were composed of detachments of +the 3rd regiment (the Buffs) and of the marines, the latter under the +command of Lieutenant Williamson. The Lady Nelson was left with +Commandant Barlow. + +Such is the state of the settlement of Fort Dundas, which at some future +time must become a place of considerable consequence in the eastern +world. The soil and climate of Melville and Bathurst Islands are capable +of growing all the valuable productions of the East, particularly spices, +and many other equally important articles of trade: it is conveniently +placed for the protection of ships passing to our Indian possessions from +Port Jackson, and admirably situated for the purposes of mercantile +speculation. + +Such, then, are the first fruits of the voyages I have had the honour to +direct. Much, however, of the coast yet remains to be examined; and +although, for the general purposes of navigation, it has been quite +sufficiently explored, yet there are many spaces upon the chart left +blank that would be highly interesting to examine and really important to +know. We have but a slight knowledge also of the natural history of the +continent; slight however as it is, no country has ever produced a more +extraordinary assemblage of indigenous productions; no country has proved +richer than Australia in every branch of natural history; and it has +besides, this advantage, that as the greater part is yet entirely +unknown, so much the more does it excite the interest of the geographer +and naturalist. + +The examination of its vast interior can only be performed by degrees: +want of navigable rivers will naturally impede such a task, but all these +difficulties will be gradually overcome by the indefatigable zeal of our +countrymen, of whose researches in all parts of the world the present +times teem with such numerous examples. + + + +APPENDIX A. + +Previously to entering into the detail of the following coast-directions, +in which it has been attempted, for the sake of a more easy reference, to +collect all the nautical information under one general head, it may be +proper to premise that Captain Flinders, in the account of his voyage,* +has given two very useful chapters upon the winds and weather that may be +experienced upon the various coasts of this continent; as well as +information respecting its general navigation and particular +sailing-directions for the outer passage from Port Jackson through Torres +Strait, by entering the reefs at Murray Island. From these chapters +Captain Horsburgh has arranged, in his valuable work on the Hydrography +etc. of the Indian Ocean, a set of sailing-directions and other nautical +information** that will be found useful for the navigation of the +southern and eastern coasts of this continent. + +(*Footnote. Volume 1 book 1 chapter 11 and volume 2 book 2 chapter 11.) + +(**Footnote. Horsburgh's Indian Directory volume 2 pages 493 and 515.) + + + + +APPENDIX A. SECTION 1. + +OF THE WINDS AND CURRENTS, AND DESCRIPTION OF THE PORTS, ISLANDS, AND +COAST BETWEEN PORT JACKSON AND BREAKSEA SPIT. + +EAST COAST. + +The south-east trade cannot be said to blow home upon that part of the +coast of New South Wales, which lies between Breaksea Spit and Port +Jackson, except during the summer months when winds from that quarter +prevail and often blow very hard; they are then accompanied by heavy +rains and very thick weather: generally however from October to April +they assume the character of a sea-breeze and, excepting during their +suspension by south-easterly or westerly gales, are very regular. In the +month of December strong south-easterly gales are not uncommon; and in +February and March they are very frequent. + +In the month of December hot winds from the north-west will sometimes +last for two or three days, and are almost always suddenly terminated by +a gust of wind from the southward. The most prevailing winds, during all +seasons, are from the south, and are probably oftener from the eastward +of that point than from the westward. The current always sets to the +southward, and has been found by us on several occasions to set the +strongest during a South-East gale. The general course of the current is +in the direction of the coast, but this is not constant; for, between +Port Stevens and to the southward of Port Jackson, it sometimes sets in +towards it. In a gale from the South-East in the month of December 1820, +it must have been setting as much to the westward as South-West. This +should be attended to, particularly in south-easterly gales, and an +offing preserved to provide against the wind's veering to East-South-East +and East by South, which is often the case; and then the current, setting +upon the weather-bow, will place the vessel, in a dark night, in +considerable danger. The rate of the current is generally about one mile +per hour, but it sometimes though rarely runs at the rate of nearly three +knots. + +To the eastward in the space between New South Wales and New Caledonia +the current sets to the North-West, which carries a great body of water +into the bight between the former and New Guinea; but as Torres Strait +offers but a very inconsiderable outlet the stream is turned, and sets to +the southward until it gradually joins the easterly current which, from +the prevalence of westerly winds, is constantly running between Van +Diemen's Land and Cape Horn. + +The tides in this interval are of little consequence and in few places +rise higher than six feet at the springs, excepting where they are +affected by local circumstances. + +There are but few places of shelter upon the east coast between Port +Jackson and Breaksea Spit: Captain Flinders points out Broken Bay, Port +Hunter for small craft, Port Stephens, Shoal Bay for vessels not +exceeding fifty tons, and Glass House (Moreton) Bay. There are however +other anchorages that might be resorted to in the event of being thrown +upon a lee shore, which are equally good with Port Hunter, Shoal Bay, and +Glass House Bay. + +There is an anchorage behind Black Head to the north of Point Stevens +which Lieutenant Oxley discovered to be an island; Port Macquarie also +affords shelter for small vessels; and on the north side of Smoky Cape +there is good shelter from southerly or south-easterly winds: but the +whole of these, excepting Broken Bay, are only attainable by small +vessels. A large ship must keep an offing; and as the coast is not at all +indented the wind must blow very hard, and the ship sail very badly, to +be placed in danger. Wide Bay however is a very good port, and affords a +safe and secure shelter; the anchorage being protected by a reef which +fronts it. + +PORT JACKSON. + +The Lighthouse, or Macquarie Tower, is in latitude 33 degrees 51 minutes +11 seconds South and longitude 4 minutes 29.8 seconds east of Sir Thomas +Brisbane's Observatory at Sydney, or 151 degrees 19 minutes 45 seconds +East of Greenwich. It is a revolving light and may be seen at the +distance of ten leagues. The Inner South Head bears from it North 20 +degrees West* and is distant about two thousand five hundred yards. The +North Head bears from the Inner South Head North 53 degrees East by +compass, about two thousand four hundred and forty yards; and the +narrowest part of the entrance, which is between the Inner North and +South Heads, is a little more than eight hundred yards, so that there is +abundance of room to work in should the wind blow out of the Port. On +arriving off the lighthouse, steer in between the North and South Heads +until you are past the line of bearing of the Outer North, and the Inner +South Heads: then haul round the latter, but avoid a reef of rocks that +extends for two hundred yards off the point, and steer for Middle Head, a +projecting cliff at the bottom of the bay, until the harbour opens round +the Inner South Head; you may then pass on either side of the Sow and +Pigs; but the eastern channel, although the narrowest, is perhaps the +best; but this, in a great measure, depends upon the direction of the +wind. The eastern channel is the deepest. The Sow and Pigs, or Middle +Ground, is the only danger in Port Jackson: it is a bank of sand and +rocks, of about eight hundred yards in length, by about three hundred and +fifty in breadth: its length being in the direction of the harbour; a +very small portion of it is dry, and consists of a few rocks, upon which +the sea almost always breaks; they are situated upon the outer end of the +shoal, and are in the line of bearing of the Outer North and the Inner +South Heads. The south-western tail of the bank is chiefly of sand, with +rocks scattered about it; but, on the greater portion of it, there is +twelve feet water; it gradually deepens to three and a quarter fathoms, +which is beyond the rocky limits of the shoal. To sail through the +Western Channel, which is from one-third to half a mile wide, steer +towards George's Head, a high rocky head, about three quarters of a mile +above Middle Head, keeping it in sight upon the larboard bow, and the sea +horizon open between the points of entrance, until you are within the +line of bearing between a small sandy beach on the western shore and +Green Point; the latter is a grassy mound, the south head of Camp Cove. +Then steer for George's Head, and gradually round it: when you have +passed the line of bearing between it and Green Point, and opened the +sandy beach of Watson's Bay, steer boldly up the harbour. In rounding +Point Bradley, there is a rocky shelf that runs off the point for perhaps +one hundred yards. Pass on either side of Pinch-gut Island, and, in +hauling into Sydney Cove, avoid a rocky reef that extends off Point +Bennelong for rather more than two hundred yards into the sea. + +To sail through the Eastern Channel, or to the eastward of the Sow and +Pigs, haul round the Inner South Head until the summit of the Inner North +Head is in a line with the inner trend of the former, bearing by compass +North 23 1/2 degrees East; then steer South-South-West until you have +passed Green Point, when the course may be directed at pleasure up the +harbour. + +In turning to windward, go no nearer to the Sow and Pigs than three and a +quarter fathoms, unless your vessel is small; nor within two hundred +yards of the shore, for although it is bold in most parts close to, yet +there are some few straggling rocks off the south point of Watson's Bay, +and also some round Shark's Island. There is good anchorage in all parts +of the harbour, when within Middle and the South Heads. There is also +anchorage in North Harbour, but not to be recommended, for the swell +sometimes rolls into the mouth of the harbour; no swell can, however, +affect the anchorage between Middle Head and the Sow and Pigs. + +SYDNEY COVE is nearly half a mile deep, and four hundred yards wide, and +will contain more than twenty ships swinging at their moorings. The +shores are bold to, and, excepting the rocky shoals that extend off Point +Bennelong and Point Dawes, ships may approach very near. + +On the eastern side of the cove is a convenient place for heaving down: +it belongs to the government, but merchant ships may use it, by paying a +small sum according to the length of time it is engaged. Wood and water +are easily obtained from the north shore of the port; the former may be +cut close to the beach; the latter is collected in tanks, and, excepting +during a very dry season, is always abundant. + +The tide rises occasionally at the springs as much as eight feet, but six +feet is the general rise; it is high water at Sydney Cove at half past +eight o'clock, but at the heads, it precedes this time by a quarter of an +hour. The variation of the magnetic needle observed on shore by +Lieutenant Roe: + +at Sydney Cove in 1822, to be 8 degrees 42 minutes East, + +at Garden Island 9 degrees 6 minutes East, + +at Camp Cove 9 degrees 42 minutes East. + +As all navigators are, or ought to be, supplied with Captain Horsburgh's +Indian Directory, it has not been thought necessary to descant further +upon the nature of the winds and currents of the east coast; since this +subject has been so fully treated upon, in the above valuable book, in +the section that commences at page 501. + +Captain Horsburgh has also described the entrance of Botany Bay at page +502, and of Broken Bay, at page 505. According to Lieutenant Jeffreys, +R.N., who commanded the hired armed transport Kangaroo, the latter +harbour has a bar stretching across from the south to the north head, on +which there is not less than five fathoms water. + +PORT HUNTER is situated fifty-nine miles North 22 degrees East (true) +from the entrance of Port Jackson. There is a lighthouse at its southern +entrance, and pilots are established who come off to vessels that arrive. +The entrance is round the Nobby (latitude 32 degrees 56 minutes, +longitude 151 degrees 43 1/4 minutes) an insulated rock: and the passage +is indicated by keeping two lights, that are placed at a distance from +each other at the wharf, in a line: the anchorage is about two hundred +yards from the wharf in three fathoms. The shoals on the west side are +dangerous, and several vessels have been wrecked upon them in going in. +The above information is from a plan drawn by Lieutenant Jeffreys, in the +Hydrographical Office at the Admiralty: it was drawn in the year 1816; +since which a portion of the labour of the convicts has been employed in +building a breakwater, or pier, from the south entrance to the Nobby +Rock, which will tend to direct the stream of tide through the channel, +and also protect it from the surf and swell, which, during a south-east +gale, must render the harbour of dangerous access. The town was formerly +called King's Town, but it has since been changed to that of Newcastle, +and the appellation of the Coal River has partly superseded the more +legitimate name of Port Hunter. + +PORT STEPHENS is easy to enter, but not to sail from, unless the wind is +fair, on account of the shoals that are near its entrance. Point Stephens +is in latitude 32 degrees 46 1/2 minutes, longitude 152 degrees 9 minutes +45 seconds. + +BLACK HEAD is an island, behind which there is very good anchorage; the +head is in latitude 32 degrees 38 minutes 20 seconds. Between Black Head, +and the hills called the Brothers, are WALLIS' Lake, in latitude 32 +degrees 11 minutes 50 seconds, HARRINGTON'S Lake, in 32 degrees 0 +minutes, and FARQUHAR'S Lake, in latitude 31 degrees 54 minutes; they +were discovered by Lieutenant Oxley on his return from his land journey +in 1819; they have all shoal entrances, and are merely the outlets of +extensive lagoons, which receive the streams from the hills, and occupy a +considerable space between the coast and the mountains. + +In latitude 31 degrees 47 minutes 50 seconds, and at the distance of two +miles and a quarter from the shore, is a dangerous reef, on which the sea +constantly breaks; it was named by Lieutenant Oxley, who discovered it, +the MERMAID'S REEF; it is about a quarter of a mile in extent, and bears +South 85 degrees East from the South Brother; a small detached portion of +the reef is separated from the principal rock, within which there +appeared to be a narrow navigable channel. A quarter of a mile without +the latter we found sixteen fathoms water. Round the point under the +North Brother Hill, is CAMDEN HAVEN, the particulars respecting its +entrance (in latitude 31 degrees 41 minutes, longitude 152 degrees) are +not yet known, but it is supposed to be very shoal. + +PORT MACQUARIE is the embouchure or the River Hastings; its entrance is +about two miles and two-thirds to the North-North-West of Tacking Point. +It is a bar harbour, and, like Port Hunter, is of dangerous access, on +account of the banks of sand that project from the low north sandy point +of entrance, on which the sea breaks and forms sand rollers; these +however serve to indicate the edge of the channel, which is about ninety +yards wide. The south shore extends in a North-North-West direction from +Tacking Point to Green Mound (a remarkable conical shaped hillock) whence +the south shore of the entrance trends in nearly a west direction to the +narrow entrance opposite Pelican Point. + +Between Green Mound and the next projection the bar stretches across +towards the sand rollers, and is about one hundred and twenty yards in +extent. + +The deepest channel over it is within thirty yards of two sunken rocks, +the outermost of which bears from Green Mound North 45 degrees West +(true) or North 55 degrees West, nine hundred yards. When Green Mound +Point and the next point to the southward of it are in a line, you are +within a few yards of the shoalest part of the bar. After passing the +bar, there are from two to four fathoms water. Since the examination of +this harbour, a penal settlement has been formed, and a pilot appointed +to conduct vessels in and out. Off the entrance is a high rocky islet, +the Nobby, within which the channel is shoal and dangerous to pass. There +is good anchorage in four, five, or six fathoms, about half a mile +outside of the bar, on a bank of sand, which gradually deepens for three +miles to fourteen fathoms, upon any part of which a vessel may anchor to +await high water. + +Latitude of its entrance 31 degrees 25 minutes 32 seconds South. + +Longitude 152 degrees 57 minutes 25 seconds East. + +Variation of the compass 10 degrees 11 minutes 0 seconds East. + +High water at full and change 8 hours 56 minutes. + +Tide rises four to five feet. + +The south-east trend of SMOKY CAPE is in latitude 30 degrees 55 minutes +40 seconds, longitude 153 degrees 4 minutes 30 seconds. + +TRIAL BAY, so named by Lieutenant Oxley, who anchored in it on a second +expedition to examine Port Macquarie previous to its being settled, is a +convenient roadstead during southerly winds: it is situated on the north +side of Smoky Cape, and affords an anchorage in three fathoms, protected +from the sea as far as North-East by East. Fresh water may be procured +from a stream that runs over the beach. Four miles to the north of Smoky +Cape is an inlet having a bar harbour, on which there is but eight feet +water. + +SHOAL BAY is the next harbour to the northward: the following description +of it is from Captain Flinders (Flinders' Terra Australis, Introduction, +cxcv.) + +"On the south side of the entrance, which is the deepest, there is ten +feet at low water; and within side the depth is from two to four fathoms, +in a channel near the south shore: the rest of the bar is mostly occupied +by shoals, over which boats can scarcely pass when the tide is out. High +water appeared to take place about seven hours after the moon's passage; +at which time a ship not drawing more than fourteen feet might venture +in, if severely pressed. Shoal Bay is difficult to be found except by its +latitude, which is 29 degrees 26 1/2 minutes, but there is on the low +land about four leagues to the southward, a small hill somewhat peaked, +which may serve as a mark to vessels coming from that direction." + +CAPE BYRON, in latitude 28 degrees 38 minutes 10 seconds, longitude 153 +degrees 37 minutes 20 seconds. MOUNT WARNING is in latitude 28 degrees 24 +minutes, longitude 153 degrees 12 minutes. + +THE TWEED is a river communicating with the sea by a bar, on which there +is twelve feet water, it is situated about a mile and a half to the north +of a small island off Point Danger, which lies in latitude 28 degrees 8 +minutes. + +In latitude 28 degrees there is a communication with the inlet at the +south side of Moreton Bay, insulating the land whose north extremity is +Point Lookout. The entrance of this inlet is shoal and only passable for +boats. + +MORETON BAY.* In addition to the account of this bay by Captain +Flinders,** Lieutenant Oxley has lately discovered the Brisbane, a very +fine fresh water river that falls into it in 27 degrees 25 minutes +latitude, abreast of the strait between Moreton Island and Point Lookout. + +(*Footnote. This bay was originally called Glass House Bay, in allusion +to the name given by Captain Cook to three remarkable glass house-looking +hills near Pumice-stone River; but as Captain Cook bestowed the name of +Moreton Bay upon the strait to the south of Moreton Island, that name has +a prior claim, and is now generally adopted. A penal settlement has +lately been formed at Red Cliff Point, which is situated a little to the +north of the embouchure of the Brisbane River.) + +(*Footnote. Flinders Introduction cxcvi.) + +WIDE BAY, the entrance of which is in latitude 25 degrees 49 minutes, was +examined by Mr. Edwardson, the master of one of the government colonial +vessels; he found it to be a good port, having in its entrance a channel +of not less than three fathoms deep; and to communicate with Hervey's +Bay, thus making an island of the Great Sandy Peninsula. + +INDIAN HEAD is in latitude 25 degrees 1 minute, and longitude 153 degrees +23 minutes. + +... + + +APPENDIX A. SECTION 2. + +DESCRIPTION OF THE WINDS AND WEATHER, AND OF THE PORTS, ISLANDS, AND +COAST BETWEEN BREAKSEA SPIT AND CAPE YORK. + +NORTH-EAST COAST. + +The south-east trade is occasionally suspended near the shore by +north-easterly winds during the months of June, July, and August, the +only season that I have any experience of the winds and weather upon the +north-east coast; the weather is generally thick and cloudy, and often +accompanied with showers of rain, particularly during the two first +months. + + In the neighbourhood of Breaksea Spit in May, 1819, we +experienced a fresh gale from the westward, after which it veered +to south-east with thick rainy weather: and in the neighbourhood +of Cape Capricorn, in June, 1821, we had a fresh gale from the +north-east. Among the Northumberland Islands, we have experienced +westerly winds, but they blew in light breezes with fine weather. +Even as far as Cape Grafton the wind cannot be said to be steady. +To the north of this point, however, the winds are always +constant from the southward, and seldom or ever veer to the +westward of south, or to the eastward of South-East by East; they +generally are from South-South-East: fresh winds cause the +weather to be hazy, and sometimes bring rain, which renders the +navigation among the reefs in some degree dangerous. In my last +voyage up the coast, on approaching Cape York, the weather was so +thick that we could not see more than a quarter of a mile ahead; +we, however, ran from reef to reef, and always saw them in +sufficient time to alter the course if we were in error. In such +a navigation cloudy dull weather is, however, rather an advantage +than otherwise, because the reefs, from the absence of the glare +of the sun, are more distinctly seen, particularly in the +afternoon, when the sun is to the westward. Later in the season +(August 1820) we had more settled weather, for the wind seldom +veered to the southward of South-South-East, or eastward of +East-South-East; and this weather accompanied us from Breaksea +Spit, through Torres Strait. + +The best time for passing up this coast is in April and the beginning of +May, or between the middle of August and latter end of October; in the +months of June and July, the passage is not apparently so safe, on +account of the changeable weather that may be encountered, which to a +stranger would create much anxiety, although no real danger. Strict +attention to these directions and confidence in the chart, with a +cautious lookout will, however, neutralize all the dangers that thick +weather may produce in this navigation. + +The tides and currents in this part are not of much consequence. The rise +of tide is trifling, the flood-tide sets to the North-West, but at a very +slow rate. In the neighbourhood of the reefs, the stream sometimes sets +at the rate of a knot or in some cases at two knots, but for a small +distance it is scarcely perceptible. There appeared rather to be a gentle +drain of current to the North-West. + +HERVEY'S BAY and BUSTARD BAY have been already described by Captains Cook +and Flinders. We did not enter either, so that I have nothing to offer in +addition to the valuable information of those navigators (Hawkesworth +volume 3 page 113 and 117; and Flinders Introduction cci. and volume 2 +page 9 et seq.) + +LADY ELLIOT'S ISLAND is a low islet, covered with shrubs and trees, and +surrounded by a coral reef, which extends for three-quarters of a mile +from its north-east end; the island is not more than three-quarters of a +mile long, and about a quarter of a mile broad; it is dangerous to +approach at night, from being very low. It is situated thirty miles North +53 degrees West (magnetic) from the extremity of Breaksea Spit (as laid +down in Captain Flinders' chart); its latitude is 24 degrees 6 minutes, +and its longitude 152 degrees 45 minutes 15 seconds. + +BUNKER'S GROUP consists of three islets; they are low and wooded like +Lady Elliot's Island, and lie South-East and North-West from each other; +the south-easternmost (or 1st) has a coral reef projecting for two miles +and a half to the North-East: four miles and a half to the North-West of +the north-westernmost (or 3rd islet) is a large shoal, which, from the +heavy breakers upon it, is probably a part of the barrier or outer reefs. +The centre island (or 2nd) of the group is in latitude 23 degrees 51 +minutes 10 seconds, and longitude 152 degrees 19 minutes 5 seconds. Off +the south-west end of the 2nd island is a small detached islet connected +to it by a reef; and off the north-east end of the 3rd island is another +islet, also connected by a coral reef. + +The spaces between these islands, which are more than a league wide, are +quite free from danger: we passed within a quarter of a mile of the south +end of the reef off the 3rd island, without getting bottom with ten +fathoms. + +RODD'S BAY, a small harbour on the west side of the point to the +northward of Bustard Bay, offers a good shelter for vessels of one +hundred and fifty tons burden. The channel lies between two sandbanks, +which communicate with either shore. In hauling round the point, steer +for Middle Head, a projecting rocky point covered with trees, keeping the +centre of it in the bearing of about South (magnetic); you will then +carry first five, then six and seven fathoms: when you are abreast of the +north low sandy point, you have passed the sandbank on the eastern side, +the extremity of which bears from the point West 1/4 North about one +mile: then haul in East by South, and anchor at about one-third of a mile +from the low sandy point bearing North. + +In hauling round this point, you must not shoalen your water, on the +south side, to less than four fathoms, as the sandbank projects for a +mile and a quarter from Middle Head. In the centre of the channel, +between Sandy Point and Middle Head, and at about one third of a mile +from the former, you will have seven, eight, and nine fathoms water, +until it bears North by East when it shoals to five fathoms. The +situation of the extremity of the low sandy point upon Captain Flinders' +chart (East Coast sheet 3) is in latitude 23 degrees 59 minutes 45 +seconds, and longitude 151 degrees 34 minutes 45 seconds. High water +takes place at eight hours and a half after the moon's transit. + +In standing into Rodd's Bay, the water does not shoalen until you are in +a line with the north points of Facing Island and Bustard Bay. + +There is a run of fresh water in the bay to the eastward of the low sandy +point, but it was not thought to be a durable stream. Wood may be cut +close to the beach, and embarked without impediment. + +PORT BOWEN. Captain Flinders, in his account of this port, has merely +confined himself to the anchorage under Entrance Island (latitude 22 +degrees 29 minutes, longitude 150 degrees 45 minutes 30 seconds) which +is, at best, but an exposed roadstead. The channel in, on the north side +of the island, is free from danger, but, on the south side, between it +and Cape Clinton, there is an extensive shoal on which the sea breaks +heavily: it was not ascertained whether it is connected with the bank off +the south end of the island, but there is every probability of it. The +inlet round Cape Clinton affords good anchorage: but in the mid-channel +the depth is as much as eighteen fathoms; the sands on the western side +of the inlet are steep to, and should be avoided, for the tide sweeps +upon them. The best anchorage is in the sandy bay round the inner trend +of the cape (latitude 22 degrees 31 minutes 40 seconds, longitude 150 +degrees 44 minutes) where both wood and water are convenient. In steering +in from sea, haul round the cape, and pass about half to three-quarters +of a mile to the north of the high round island, in seven fathoms, +avoiding the sandbanks on either side. In passing the inner trend of the +cape, the water will shoal to three and three-quarter fathoms, but do not +approach too near the point. When you have opened the inlet, steer in, +and, having passed the inner cape, haul in to a sandy bay on the eastern +side, where you may anchor in eight or nine fathoms at pleasure. + +The centre of the shoal in the middle of the port bears North 1/4 East by +compass, from the high round island, and North by West 1/4 West when in a +line with Entrance Island. + +High water appears to take place half an hour later than at Entrance +Island, or about 10 hours 40 minutes after the moon's southing (the +moon's age being thirteen days). The tide did not rise more than six +feet, but it wanted three days to the springs. Captain Flinders supposes +the spring tides to rise not less than fifteen feet. The variation of the +compass was 9 degrees 5 minutes East, off Cape Clinton, but at Entrance +Island, according to Captain Flinders, it was 7 degrees 40 minutes East. + +NORTHUMBERLAND ISLANDS. In the direction of North 8 degrees East +(magnetic) and five miles and a half from the 3rd Island, is a low rock +which, at high water, is very little above the surface of the sea; it is +very dangerous because it is in the direct track of vessels steering +towards the Percy Isles. It escaped the observation of Captain Flinders. + +In the direction of South 42 degrees West (magnetic) and ten miles from +the west end of Percy Island Number 1, are some rocks, but I am not aware +whether they are covered: they were seen by Lieutenant Jefferies in 1815. + +Another patch of dry rocks was seen by me from the summit of a hill at +the west end of Percy Island Number 1, whence they bore South 60 degrees +West (magnetic) and were supposed to be distant about eight or nine +miles. The variation of the compass here is between 7 and 8 degrees East. + +The PERCY ISLES have also been described by Captain Flinders; the bay at +the west end of Number 1 is of very steep approach and not safe to anchor +in, excepting during a south-east wind: the anchorage at Number 2, inside +the Pine Islets, is bad, since the bottom is rocky; the ground is, +however, clearer more to the southward; on the whole this anchorage is +not insecure, since there is a safe passage out either on the north or +south sides of the Pine Islets. Wood may be procured with facility, and +water also, unless the streams fail in the dry season. Captain Flinders +was at these islands at the latter end of September, and found it +abundant. The flood-tide comes from the north-east; at the anchorage in +the channel, between the pine islets and Number 2, the flood sets to the +south, and the ebb to the north; the maximum rate was one and a quarter +knot. High water occurred at the latter place two hours and a half before +the moon's passage; but on the following day did not precede it more than +one hour and a half. Captain Flinders mentions high water taking place on +shore at eight hours after the moon's passage. (Vide Flinders volume 2 +page 82.) The tide rose twelve feet when the moon was thirteen days old. +The north-west end of Number 1 is in latitude 21 degrees 44 minutes 50 +seconds, longitude 150 degrees 16 minutes 40 seconds; south-west end of +Number 2 is in latitude 21 degrees 40 minutes 50 seconds, longitude 150 +degrees 13 minutes. + +In passing SHOAL POINT, in latitude 21 degrees 0 minutes 5 seconds, +longitude 149 degrees 7 minutes 40 seconds, Captain Cook's ship got into +shoal water, and at one time had as little as three fathoms (Hawkesworth +volume 3 page 131); and the merchant ship Lady Elliot, in the year 1815, +met with a sandbank extending from the island off the point in a +north-east direction for ten miles, on one part of which she found only +nine feet water. + +The Mermaid passed the point at the distance of three miles, and, when +the island bore South 68 degrees West, distant two miles and a half, had +four and three-quarter fathoms, which was the least water that was found, +but, being then high water, five or six feet, if not more, may be +deducted, to reduce it to the proper low water sounding. There was no +appearance of shoaler water near us, and it is probable that Captain +Cook's and the Lady Elliot's tracks were farther off shore. The variation +of the compass, six miles east of Point Slade, was 7 degrees 11 minutes +East. + +CAPE HILLSBOROUGH is a projection terminating in a bluff point in +latitude 20 degrees 53 minutes 40 seconds, and longitude 149 degrees 0 +minutes 15 seconds: being high land, it may be seen seven or eight +leagues off. The variation here is 6 degrees 30 minutes East. + +The CUMBERLAND ISLES extend between the parallels of 20 and 21 degrees 6 +minutes, and consist generally of elevated, rocky islands; they are all +abundantly wooded, particularly with pines, which grow to a larger size +than at the Percy Isles. We did not land upon any of them; they appeared +to be of bold approach, and not dangerous to navigate amongst; they are +from six to eight hundred feet high, and some of the peaks on the +northern island are much higher. + +k l (latitude 21 degrees 5 minutes 40 seconds, longitude 149 degrees 54 +minutes 25 seconds) is about three-quarters of a mile in diameter; it is +of peaked shape; at three-quarters of a mile off its south-east end there +is a dry rocky lump. + +k (latitude 21 degrees 0 minutes, longitude 149 degrees 52 minutes 30 +seconds) is nearly a mile and a quarter in diameter, and has a +considerable reef stretching for more than a mile and a half off both its +north-west and south-east ends; on the latter is a small rocky islet. + +k 2 (in latitude 20 degrees 58 minutes, longitude 149 degrees 44 minutes +55 seconds) is of hummocky shape; it has also a reef off its south-east +and north-west ends, stretching off at least a mile. On the south-east +reef is a dry rocky islet. + +THREE ROCKS, in latitude 20 degrees 56 1/4 minutes, are small islets of +moderate height. All these islands are surrounded by deep water. The +variation here is about 6 3/4 degrees East. + +k 4, in latitude 20 degrees 53 minutes 10 seconds, and k 4 1/2, in +latitude 20 degrees 58 minutes, and the two sandy islets to the westward +of them, were seen only at a distance. + +l, in latitude 20 degrees 51 minutes 10 seconds, l 1, in latitude 20 +degrees 54 minutes 10 seconds, containing two islands, l 3, in latitude +20 degrees 44 minutes l5 seconds, and l 4, in latitude 20 degrees 45 +minutes 30 seconds, are also high, but we were not nearer to them than +six or seven miles; l 2, in latitude 20 degrees 45 minutes 40 seconds, +longitude 149 degrees 33 minutes 55 seconds, is the island on which +Captain Flinders landed, and describes in volume 2 page 94; he says, +"This little island is of triangular shape, and each side of it is a mile +long; it is surrounded by a coral reef. The time of high water took place +ONE HOUR before the moon's passage, as it had done among the barrier +reefs; from ten to fifteen feet seemed to be the rise by the shore, and +the flood came from the northward." The variation near l 2 is 6 degrees +17 minutes East. + +m is a high, bluff island, the peaked summit of which, in latitude 20 +degrees 46 minutes 35 seconds and longitude 149 degrees 15 minutes 15 +seconds, is eight hundred and seventy-four feet high: there are several +islets off its south-east end, and one off its north-west end. + +SIR JAMES SMITH'S GROUP consists of ten or twelve distinct islands, and +perhaps as many more, for we were not within twelve miles of them. On the +principal island is LINNE PEAK, in latitude 20 degrees 40 minutes 30 +seconds, and longitude 149 degrees 9 minutes 10 seconds; it is seven or +eight hundred feet high. + +SHAW'S PEAK, in latitude 20 degrees 28 minutes, longitude 149 degrees 2 +minutes 55 seconds, is on a larger island than any to the southward; it +is sixteen hundred and one feet high. The group consists of several +islands; it is separated from the next to the northward by a channel five +miles wide. In the centre is PENTECOST ISLAND, a remarkable rock, rising +abruptly out of the sea to the height of eleven hundred and forty feet. +Its latitude is 20 degrees 23 minutes 10 seconds, and longitude 148 +degrees 59 minutes 30 seconds. + +The northern group of the Cumberland Islands are high, and appear to be +better furnished with wood, and more fertile than the southern groups, +particularly on their western sides. + +The principal peak, in latitude 29 degrees 15 minutes 10 seconds and +longitude 148 degrees 55 minutes, is fifteen hundred and eighty-four feet +high, and is situated on the largest island, which is ten miles long, and +from three to nine broad: it has several bays on either side, and off its +south-eastern end are four small islands: beyond them is a range of rocky +islets. The northernmost island of this range is the extremity of the +Cumberland Islands, as well as the north-eastern limit of Whitsunday +Passage; it forms a high, bluff point, in latitude 20 degrees 0 minutes, +and longitude 148 degrees 50 minutes 30 seconds, and is of bold approach: +on the western side of the island are some low islets. + +REPULSE BAY is a deep bight: its shores are low, but the hills rise to a +great height. The extremity of the bay was not distinctly traced, but it +is probable, upon examining it, that a fresh-water rivulet may be found; +and there may be a communication with Edgecumbe Bay. + +The Repulse Isles are of small size; they are surrounded by rocks, which +do not extend more than a quarter of a mile from them. The summit of the +largest island is in latitude 20 degrees 37 minutes 5 seconds, and +longitude 148 degrees 50 minutes 30 seconds. Variation 6 degrees 15 +minutes East. + +Between Capes Conway and Hillsborough the flood-tide comes from the +north-eastward, but is very irregular in the direction of the stream. At +an anchorage off the island near the latter cape the tide rose twelve +feet, but close to the Repulse Isles, the rise was eighteen feet. At the +former place, the moon being full, high water took place at about +three-quarters past ten o'clock; by an observation the next day at the +latter, it was a quarter of an hour later: the maximum rate was about one +and a half knot. + +WHITSUNDAY PASSAGE, formed by the northern group of the Cumberland +Islands, is from three to six miles wide, and, with the exception of a +small patch or rocks within a quarter of a mile from Cape Conway, and a +sandbank (that is probably dry, or nearly so at low water) off Round +Head, is free from danger. The shores appear to be bold to, and the +depth, in the fairway, varies between twenty and thirty fathoms; the +shoal off Round Head stretches in a North-North-West direction, but its +extent was not ascertained. + +In steering through the strait, particularly during the flood-tide, this +shoal should be avoided by keeping well over to the east shore; for the +tide there sets across the strait; it is about a mile and a half from +Round Head, in which space the water is ten and fourteen fathoms deep. + +Between Round Head (in latitude 20 degrees 28 minutes 30 seconds) and +Cape Conway is a bay, where there appeared to be good anchorage out of +the strength of the tides; and to the north of Round Head is another bay, +the bottom of which is an isthmus of about a mile wide, separating it +from an inlet to the westward of Cape Conway. This bay very probably +affords good anchorage out of the strength of the tides. + +CAPE CONWAY, in latitude 20 degrees 32 minutes, and longitude 148 degrees +54 minutes, is the western limit of the south entrance of Whitsunday +Passage; it is a steep point, sloping off to the eastward: immediately on +its north side is a small shingly beach, a few yards behind which there +is a hollow, containing a large quantity of fresh water. At a short +quarter of a mile from the point is a rocky shoal of small size, between +which and the shore there is deep water. + +PINE HEAD, in latitude 20 degrees 23 minutes, and longitude 148 degrees +51 minutes 40 seconds, is the south-east extremity of a small island that +is separated from the main by a passage of about a mile wide, but we did +not ascertain whether it is navigable. The head is a high, bluff point, +clothed with pine-trees: near it the tide runs in strong eddies, and for +that reason it ought not to be approached nearer than half a mile; it +appeared to be bold to. There is a sandy bay on its south west side +affording a good landing-place; the island is clothed with grass, and +thickly wooded: we found no water. The variation was 5 degrees 35 minutes +East. + +PORT MOLLE, so named by Lieutenant Jeffreys, appeared to trend in for +four or five miles: and, probably, to afford a convenient port, as it is +well sheltered from the wind, and is protected from the north-east by a +group of small islands, thickly wooded. Hence the land trends to the +north-west towards Cape Gloucester; the shore was very indistinctly seen, +but seemed to be very much indented, and to possess several bays, if not +rivers; for the land at the back is very high, and must give rise to +several mountain, if not navigable, streams. + +MOUNT DRYANDER, whose summit is in latitude 20 degrees 14 minutes 10 +seconds, and longitude 148 degrees 30 minutes 55 seconds, forms a small +peak, and is visible from Repulse Bay, as well as from the northern +extremity of the Cumberland Islands: it is four thousand five hundred and +sixty-six feet high; and the hills around it are at least from seven +hundred to a thousand feet in height. + +The greater part of the water that collects from these hills probably +empties itself into Repulse and Edgecumbe Bays, or it may be distributed +in lagoons upon the low land that separates them. + +At the back of Point Slade there is a high mountainous range extending +without interruption to the westward of Mount Upstart. In latitude 21 +degrees 1 1/2 minutes, and longitude 148 degrees 36 3/4 minutes is a +high-rounded summit, which is visible at the distance of twenty leagues: +between this range, which is at the distance of from five to seven +leagues from the sea, and the coast, are several ridges gradually +lowering in altitude as they approach the shore. In the neighbourhood of +Repulse Bay, this mountainous range recedes, and has a considerable track +of low land at its base, which is possibly a rich country: from the +height of the hills, it must be well watered. + +CAPE GLOUCESTER. The point of land that Captain Cook took originally for +the cape, is an island of about five miles long and two broad, separated +from the true Cape Gloucester by a strait, a mile and a half wide. The +island is called Gloucester Island; its summit at the north end is in +latitude 19 degrees 57 minutes 24 seconds, longitude 148 degrees 23 +minutes 38 seconds: it is eighteen hundred and seventy-four feet high, +and its summit is a ridge of peaks: its shores are rocky and steep; and, +although the sides of the hills are wooded, yet it has a sombre and heavy +appearance, and, at least, does not look fertile. The cape, in latitude +20 degrees 1 minute 50 seconds, and longitude 148 degrees 26 minutes 15 +seconds, is the extremity of the mountainous range that extends off Mount +Dryander. The variation observed off the island was 7 degrees 11 minutes +East. + +EDGECUMBE BAY is a deep indentation of the land, the shores of which are +very low: its extent was not ascertained, but, by the bearings of some +land at the bottom, it is seventeen miles deep; and its greatest breadth, +at the mouth, is about fourteen miles. It affords excellent shelter; and +between Middle Island (a small rocky islet of a mile and half in extent) +and Gloucester Island there is good anchorage in seven fathoms muddy +bottom, with protection from all winds. We did not examine the bay +farther than passing round Middle Island in six, seven, and eight +fathoms, mud. The western side is formed by low islands, that appeared to +be swampy, but our distance was too great to form the most distant +opinion of them: if the main is not swampy, it must be a rich and +interesting country. + +HOLBORNE ISLAND is a rocky island, visible about seven or eight leagues, +and has three small islets near it: it is in latitude 19 degrees 41 +minutes 5 seconds, and longitude 148 degrees 17 minutes 30 seconds. + +CAPE UPSTART is the extremity of Mount Upstart, which is so high as to be +visible for more than twenty leagues in clear weather: it rises abruptly +from a low projection, and forms a long ridge of mountainous land; the +north-east end of the summit is in latitude 19 degrees 41 minutes 50 +seconds, and longitude 147 degrees 44 minutes 30 seconds. This point +separates two deep bays, both of which were of very inviting appearance, +on account of the high and broken character of the gullies on either side +of Mount Abbott, and it was almost evident that they both terminate in a +river. The hills of Mount Upstart are of primitive form, and were judged +to be composed of granite. The variation observed off the point was 6 +degrees 16 minutes East. + +CAPE BOWLING-GREEN is very low, and projects for a considerable distance +into the sea: its north-east extremity is in latitude 19 degrees 19 +minutes 10 seconds, and longitude 147 degrees 23 minutes East; the +mountainous ranges are at least thirty miles in the rear, and, were it +not for Mounts Upstart and Eliot, both of which are very visible, and +serve as an excellent guide, this part of the coast would be very +dangerous to approach, particularly in the night, when these marks cannot +be seen, when great attention must be paid to the lead. A ship passing +this projection should not come into shoaler water than eleven fathoms; +and, in directing a course from abreast of Mount Upstart, should be +steered sufficiently to the northward to provide against the current +which sets into the bay on the western side of the mount. On approaching +the cape, if the soundings indicate a less depth than eleven fathoms, the +vessel should be hauled more off, because she is then either a parallel +with or to the southward of the cape. + +CAPE CLEVELAND (latitude 19 degrees 10 minutes 10 seconds, longitude 146 +degrees 57 minutes 56 seconds) like Mount Upstart, rises abruptly from a +projection of low land, separating Cleveland Bay from a deep sinuosity +that extends under the base of Mount Eliot, a high range with a rounded +hill and a peak, the latter being at the south extremity of its summit. +Mount Eliot may probably be seen at the distance of twenty-five leagues, +if not farther; between it and the hills of Cape Cleveland the land is +low, and is probably much intersected by water. + +A reef extends from the extremity of Cape Cleveland for four miles to the +eastward, but not at all to the northward, so that, with the point +bearing to the southward of West 1/2 South a ship is safe: there is a +breaker near the extremity of the reef, at about three miles from the +point; to avoid which, keep the south end of Magnetical Island well open +of the north extremity of the cape. + +The peaked summit of MOUNT ELIOT is in latitude 19 degrees 33 minutes 10 +seconds, and longitude 146 degrees 54 minutes 25 seconds. + +CLEVELAND BAY affords good anchorage in all parts, in four, five, and six +fathoms; a considerable flat extends for a mile from the shore on the +western side of the cape, and is left dry at half ebb; it fronts a sandy +beach that commences at a mile and a half to the south of the cape, and +extends to the southward for nearly two miles; over this beach, two or +three streams of fresh water communicate with the sea; they take their +rise from the hills, and probably are seldom dry. + +The most convenient watering-place is near the centre of the beach, a +little to the northward of the highest hills. Wood for fuel is plentiful, +and grows close to the beach, and may be embarked with facility; the best +place is at the north end of the sandy beach, since the boat can be +brought nearer to the shore to protect the wooding party. + +HALIFAX BAY extends from Cape Cleveland to Point Hillock; it has several +islands in it, and is fronted by the PALM ISLANDS, the summit of which is +in latitude 18 degrees 43 minutes 5 seconds, longitude 146 degrees 35 +minutes 15 seconds: this group consists of nineteen islands, one only of +which is of large size, being eight miles long and three wide; it +probably affords all the conveniences of a sheltered anchorage, and a +good supply of wood and water. + +In latitude 18 degrees 49 minutes, nine miles from the shore, and six +miles within the island Number 2, is a coral reef, that shows at low +water: it appeared to be about two miles long; between it and Number 2 is +a wide channel with nine fathoms. The Lady Elliot, merchant ship, in +1815, struck upon a reef in 18 degrees 45 minutes, about four miles from +the shore; of which we saw nothing; we anchored within four miles of its +position, but, at daylight, when we got underweigh, it might have been +covered by the tide. + +In 18 degrees 32 minutes and 146 degrees 41 minutes is a reef, on which +the San Antonio, merchant brig, struck: its position was not correctly +ascertained, as the accident happened in the night. + +POINT HILLOCK is in latitude 18 degrees 25 minutes, and longitude 146 +degrees 20 minutes; it is a low point projecting to the eastward, under +Mount Hinchinbrook. + +CAPE SANDWICH is the north-east extremity of the sandy land that +stretches to the northward from the base of Mount Hinchinbrook, which is +so high as to be visible for eighteen leagues: the mount is topped with a +craggy summit, seven miles in length from north to south. + +There is a reef that extends for nearly a mile and a half off the cape, +having a rocky islet at its extremity. The cape is in latitude 18 degrees +13 minutes 20 seconds, and longitude 146 degrees 16 minutes 40 seconds. +The peak at the north end of Mount Hinchinbrook is in latitude 18 degrees +21 minutes 30 seconds, and longitude 146 degrees 15. + +BROOKE'S ISLANDS lie four miles north from Cape Sandwich; they consist of +three rocky islets, besides some of smaller size; the whole are +surrounded by a coral reef. + +From Cape Sandwich the land extends, low and sandy, in a North-West +direction for five miles to a point, which is terminated by a hill. +Between this and Goold Island there appears to be a navigable strait +leading into Rockingham Bay. + +GOOLD ISLAND, the summit of which, formed by a conical hill covered with +wood, in latitude 18 degrees 9 minutes 35 seconds, and longitude 146 +degrees 9 minutes, is about two miles long: the south-west point of the +island is a long strip of low land, with a sandy beach; at the eastern +end of which there is a run of water; and fuel may be cut close to the +shore. High water takes place at full and change at three quarters past +ten. + +ROCKINGHAM BAY appears to be a spacious harbour. At the bottom there was +an appearance of an opening that may probably communicate with an inlet +on the south side of Point Hillock, and insulate the land of Mount +Hinchinbrook. There is good anchorage in the bay in four and five fathoms +mud, near Goold Island. + +The natives are very friendly here, and will come off and visit the ship. + +FAMILY ISLES consist of seven small rocky islets, covered with a stunted +vegetation. + +DUNK ISLAND is remarkable for having two peaks on its summit; the +south-east summit is in latitude 17 degrees 58 minutes, and longitude 146 +degrees 8 minutes 45 seconds. The variation observed in the offing to the +North-East was 5 degrees 41 minutes East. + +BARNARD ISLES form a group of small rocky islands extending in a +straggling direction for six miles to the south of Double Point. Three +miles to the south of the southernmost island, but nearer to the shore, +is a reef of rocks which dry at low water. + +From DOUBLE POINT (latitude of its summit 17 degrees 39 minutes 50 +seconds) to CAPE GRAFTON, the coast is formed by a succession of sandy +bays and projecting rocky points. In latitude 17 degrees 31 minutes, in +the centre of a sandy bay, is a small opening like a rivulet; and, on the +south side of Point Cooper is another; but neither appeared to be +navigable for boats. Abreast of Frankland's Islands, and near the south +end of a sandy bay of six miles in extent, there is another opening like +a river, that, from the appearance of the land behind, which is low and +of a verdant character, may be of considerable size. The high mountains +to the southward, Bellenden Ker's Range, must give rise to a considerable +stream; and it appears very probable that this may be one of the outlets, +but the most considerable is, perhaps, that which falls into Trinity Bay +round Cape Grafton. + +FRANKLAND'S ISLANDS consist of several low islets one of which is +detached and of higher character than the others, which are very low, and +connected by a reef. The largest island may be seen five or six leagues +off; it is in latitude 17 degrees 7 minutes 45 seconds. + +The land between this and Cape Grafton is high, and towards the north has +several remarkable peaks. The land of Cape Grafton may be readily known, +when seen from the southward, by appearing like three lofty islands; the +outermost is Fitzroy Island, but the others are hills upon the main. The +easternmost of the latter, Cape Grafton, is conspicuous for having two +small peaks, like notches, on the west extremity of its summit; it is +joined to the westernmost by low land, which also separates the latter +from the other hills behind it; and, as this low land is not seen at a +distance, the hills assume the appearance of islands. + +There is good anchorage in the strait between Cape Grafton and Fitzroy +Island, but, with a northerly wind, the better anchorage would be on the +south side of the cape. The former is exposed to all winds between +North-West and North-East. In the former case the anchor may be dropped +in nine fathoms, at a quarter to half a mile from the beach of the +island. The north extremity of Cape Grafton is in latitude 16 degrees 51 +minutes 20 seconds, longitude 145 degrees 53 minutes 5 seconds; the +south-east extreme is in latitude 16 degrees 54 minutes 20 seconds, +longitude 145 degrees 55 minutes 15 seconds. + +FITZROY ISLAND affords both wood and water; it has a peaked summit. It +affords anchorage in the bay on its western side, off a coral beach; the +south-west end of which is in latitude 16 degrees 55 minutes 21 seconds, +and longitude 145 degrees 56 minutes 21 seconds. Nine miles to the +eastward of Fitzroy Island is a small bare sandy island; and, at about +seven miles North-East by East from it, there was an appearance of +extensive shoals. Variation 5 degrees 10 minutes East. + +On the west side of CAPE GRAFTON is a bay, in the centre of which is an +island. The bottom is very shoal, but good anchorage may be had with the +cape bearing South-East Between CAPE GRAFTON and SNAPPER ISLAND, the +centre of which is in latitude 16 degrees 17 minutes 35 seconds, and +longitude 145 degrees 27 minutes 40 seconds, is TRINITY BAY; the shores +of which were not very distinctly seen. At the south side, and about +seven miles within the cape there is an opening that appeared to be +extensive, and the mouth of a considerable stream, trending in between +high ranges of land, in a direction towards Bellenden Ker's Range. + +In latitude 16 degrees 23 1/2 minutes, and longitude 145 degrees 34 +minutes is a group consisting of three coral islands; which, being very +low, are dangerous to pass in the night. + +The offing is said to be strewed with extensive reefs; we saw none beyond +Green Island: those that are laid down on the chart are from Lieutenant +Jeffrey's account.* + +(*Footnote. Much shoal water was seen to the northward of Green Island +from the Tamar's masthead. Roe manuscript.) + +SNAPPER ISLAND lies off the point which forms the northern limit of +Trinity Bay; it is small, and does not supply any water.* + +(*Footnote. Ten or eleven miles South 80 degrees East from Snapper Island +is the north-west end of a shoal, extending to the South 41 degrees East +for sixteen or seventeen miles; the Tamar anchored under it. Roe +manuscript.) + +The land behind CAPE TRIBULATION may be seen at a greater distance than +twenty leagues. It is here that the outer part of the barrier reefs +approach the coast, and there is reason to believe that, in latitude 16 +degrees 17 minutes 35 seconds, longitude 145 degrees 27 minutes 40 +seconds, they are not more than twenty miles from it. The cape has a +hillock at its extremity, and a small rocky islet close to the shore that +renders it conspicuous: it is fourteen miles beyond Snapper Island. The +shore appears to be bold to: at three miles off we had sixteen fathoms. + +Ten miles further to the northward is BLOMFIELD'S RIVULET in Weary Bay: +it is blocked up by a rocky bar, having only four feet water over it; the +anchorage off it is too much exposed to be safe. The river runs up for +four or five miles, having soundings within it from three to four +fathoms, its entrance is in 15 degrees 55 minutes 50 seconds. + +The coast then extends to the north to Endeavour River, and forms a few +inconsiderable sinuosities; it is backed by high land, particularly +abreast of the Hope Islands. These islands open of each other in a North +39 degrees East direction, and appear to be connected by a shoal; it is +however very likely that a narrow passage may exist between them, but +certainly not safe to sail through. + +Here the number of the coral reefs begin to increase, and great attention +must be paid in navigating amongst them; but, with a careful look out +from the masthead, and a quick leadsman in the chains, no danger need be +apprehended. + +Between reef a and the shoal off the south-west Hope Island there is a +passage two miles wide, with twelve fathoms: a is about half a mile in +diameter, with a few rocks above water; its centre is in 15 degrees 43 +minutes 20 seconds, two miles from the shore, and three miles North 55 +degrees West from the south west Hope. + +b is about a mile and a quarter long, and has a dry rock at its north +end, the latitude of which is 15 degrees 39 minutes 20 seconds: it is +divided from Endeavour Reef by a channel of nearly a mile wide, and +fifteen fathoms deep: abreast of the south end of b, on the western edge +of Endeavour Reef, there is a dry rock, in latitude 15 degrees 39 minutes +55 seconds. + +ENDEAVOUR REEF is nine miles long; it lies in a North-West direction; the +north end, in 15 degrees 39 minutes South, bears due from the North-east +Hope. + +c is covered, and not quite half a mile in length; its latitude is 15 +degrees 32 minutes: it lies four miles from the shore. + +d is rather larger, and has some dry rocks on its north end, in latitude +15 degrees 29 minutes 30 seconds. Between c and d and the shore the +passage is from three to four miles wide, and in mid-channel the depth is +seven and eight fathoms. + +On the south side of Point Monkhouse there is a bay having a small +opening at the bottom, but not deep enough for ships: it was this bay +that Captain Cook first examined in search of a place to repair his ship. + +On steering along the shore between Point Monkhouse and the entrance of +Endeavour River, the bottom is of sand and of irregular depth. A spit of +sand was passed over with only two and a half fathoms on it when the +summit of Mount Cook bore South 66 degrees West (magnetic) and the outer +extreme of Point Monkhouse South 18 degrees West (magnetic). One mile off +shore the shoal soundings continued with two and a half fathoms until it +bore South 59 degrees West (magnetic) when the depth was three, and three +and a half fathoms. + +ENDEAVOUR RIVER. The entrance of this river, in latitude 15 degrees 27 +minutes 4 seconds, and longitude 145 degrees 10 minutes 49 seconds,* +forms a very good port for small vessels; and, in a case of distress, +might be useful for large ships, as it proved to our celebrated navigator +Captain Cook, who, it is well known, repaired his ship there after having +laid twenty-three hours upon a coral reef. + +(*Footnote. The situation of the observatory at Endeavour River was found +by lunar distances, taken during my visits to that place in 1819 and +1820, as follows: + +Latitude by meridional altitudes of the sun, taken in the artificial +horizon, being the mean of twenty-seven observations: 15 degrees 27 +minutes 4 seconds. + +Longitude by twenty-five set of distances (sun West of first quarter of +the moon) containing one hundred and seventeen sights, with the sextant: +144 degrees 52 minutes 16 seconds. + +Longitude by thirty set of distances (sun East of first quarter of the +moon) containing one hundred and fifty sights, with the sextant: 145 +degrees 29 minutes 23 seconds. + +Mean, of fifty-five sets: 145 degrees 10 minutes 49 seconds.) + +The entrance is formed on the south side by a steep hill, covered with +trees growing to the edge of its rocky shore. The north side of the +entrance is a low sandy beach of two miles and a quarter in length: at +its north end a range of hills rises abruptly, and extends for six or +seven miles, when it again suddenly terminates, and is separated from the +rocky projection of Cape Bedford by a low plain of sand. + +The entrance of Endeavour River is defended by a bar, on which, at high +water, there is about fourteen feet; but, at low water, not more than ten +feet: the channel over the bar is close to the south side, for the +sandbank extends from the low sandy north shore to within one hundred and +forty yards of the south shore, and at three quarters ebb (spring tides) +is dry. + +In steering in for the mouth, upon bringing Point Monkhouse in a line +with Point a (the north point of the bay under Mount Cook) you will be in +three fathoms; steer in until the south extremity of the low north sandy +point is opened of the trend round Point c, when you may haul a little +more in, and when point d (which is a point where the mangroves commence) +bears South 33 degrees West (magnetic) steer directly for it; this will +carry you over the deepest part or the bar, which stretches off from +point c in a North 75 degrees West (magnetic) direction; another mark is +to keep the trend beyond d just in sight, but not open, or you will be +too near the spit: the best way is, having opened it, haul in a little to +the southward, and shut it in again: you may pass within ten yards of +point d; and the best anchorage is just within it; the vessel may be +secured head and stern to trees on the beach, with bow and stern anchors +to steady her. No vessel of a greater draught than twelve feet should +enter the harbour; and this vessel may even moor in four fathoms within +her own length of the shore, with the outer trend just shut in by the +mangrove point a. The watering-place is a stream that empties itself into +the port through the mangroves, about two hundred yards to the south: and +if this should fail, there is a good stream at the north end of the long +north sandy beach. The latter, although very high coloured, is of +wholesome quality; but in bad weather is inconvenient to be procured on +account of the surf. Water for common purposes of cooking may be had on a +sandy beach a little without the entrance, but it is of a mineral +quality, and of brackish taste. It is high water at full and change at +eight o'clock, and the tide rises from five to ten feet. The variation of +the observatory was 5 degrees 14 minutes East. + +CAPE BEDFORD (latitude 15 degrees 16 minutes 19 seconds, longitude 145 +degrees 17 minutes 19 seconds) is high, and forms a steep slope to the +sea: it appeared to be bold to.* Between it and Cape Flattery is a bay +backed by low land, about five miles deep; but it is exposed to the wind, +unless there is anchorage under the north-west end of Cape Bedford. + +(*Footnote. Shoal water extends for nearly a mile round Cape Bedford. Roe +manuscript.) + +CAPE FLATTERY is eighteen miles north of Cape Bedford: its extremity is +high and rocky, and forms two distinct hills. The summit of the cape is +in latitude 14 degrees 52 minutes 30 seconds, and longitude 145 degrees +16 minutes 10 seconds.* + +(*Footnote. There are some dangerous shoals to the eastward of Point +Lookout, and to the northward of Cape Flattery, about two miles apart +from each other, situated in what was considered to be the fair channel. +Roe manuscript.) + +Eleven miles beyond the cape, in a North 45 degrees West direction, is +POINT LOOKOUT, forming a peaked hill at the extremity of a low sandy +projection, whence the land trends West by North 1/2 North for twelve +leagues to Cape Bowen. + +e, a reef nearly three miles long and one broad: its north end is twelve +miles nearly due East from the entrance of Endeavour River, in latitude +15 degrees 26 minutes 50 seconds, longitude 145 degrees 23 minutes 30 +seconds. + +TURTLE REEF was visited by Mr. Bedwell, it is covered at high water, +excepting a small spot of sand, about the size of the boat, at its north +end in latitude 15 degrees 23 minutes, longitude 145 degrees 22 minutes +50 seconds: its interior is occupied, like most others, by a shoal +lagoon; it is entirely of coral, and has abundance of shellfish; it was +here that Captain Cook procured turtle during his stay at Endeavour +River, from the entrance of which it bears North 75 degrees East, and is +distant eleven miles; its south end is separated from e by a channel of a +mile wide. + +THREE ISLES, in latitude 15 degrees 7 minutes 30 seconds, is a group of +low coral islets covered with shrubs, and encircled by a reef, that is +not quite two miles in diameter. + +Two miles and three quarters to the North-West is a low wooded island, +about a mile long, also surrounded by a reef; and four miles to the +southward of it is a rocky islet. + +REEF f is about four or five miles East-South-East from Three Isles; it +appeared to be about three miles long: its western extreme is in latitude +15 degrees 10 minutes, and in longitude 145 degrees 26 minutes. + +TWO ISLES are also low and wooded, and surrounded by a reef: the largest +islet is in latitude 15 degrees 1 minute 20 seconds, and longitude 145 +degrees 22 minutes 10 seconds. + +REEF g appeared to be about a mile broad and two miles and a half long: +its south end is in latitude 15 degrees 0 minutes 15 seconds, longitude +145 degrees 26 minutes 45 seconds. + +REEF h is an extensive reef, having high breakers on its outer edge: it +is more than four miles long, and separated from the north end of g by a +channel a mile wide. + +REEF i has several detached reefs about it, on the northernmost are two +rocky islands, and to the southward, on a detached shoal, there is a bare +sandy islet that is perhaps occasionally covered by the tide: its +south-westernmost extremity and the summit of Lizard Island are in the +line of bearing of North 5 degrees West (magnetic) its latitude is 14 +degrees 53 minutes 40 seconds. + +REEF k, in latitude 14 degrees 47 minutes, has a dry sand upon it: its +sub-marine extent was not ascertained. + +REEF l; the position of this reef is rather uncertain, near its western +side is a dry key in latitude 14 degrees 47 minutes 30 seconds. + +m is probably unconnected with the shoal off the south end of Eagle +Island. In Captain Cook's rough chart there is twelve fathoms marked +between two shoals which must mean the above. + +EAGLE ISLAND is low and wooded, and situated at the north end of a +considerable shoal; its latitude is 14 degrees 42 minutes 20 seconds, and +longitude 145 degrees 18 minutes 30 seconds. + +DIRECTION ISLANDS are two high rocky islands, so called by Captain Cook +to direct ships to the opening in the reefs, through which he passed out +to sea; they are high and of conical shape, and might be seen more than +five or six leagues off was it not for the hazy weather that always +exists in the neighbourhood of the reefs; the northernmost is in latitude +14 degrees 44 minutes 50 seconds, longitude 145 degrees 26 minutes 25 +seconds: the southernmost is in latitude 14 degrees 50 minutes, longitude +145 degrees 26 minutes 45 seconds. + +LIZARD ISLAND, about three miles long, is remarkable for its peaked +summit, the latitude of which is 14 degrees 40 minutes 20 seconds, and +longitude 145 degrees 23 minutes: on its south side is an extensive reef +encompassing three islets, of which two are high and rocky: the best +anchorage is on its western side under the summit; with the high +northernmost of the Direction Islands in sight over the low land, bearing +about South-East by compass: the depth is six and seven fathoms sandy +bottom. The variation here is 5 degrees 2 minutes East. + +TURTLE GROUP is four miles to the north of Point Lookout; the islets are +encircled by a horse-shoe shaped coral reef, and consist of six islands, +all low and bushy. These islands are not laid down with sufficient +accuracy as to their relative positions. + +n is a low wooded island about eleven miles west from Lizard Island; no +reef was seen to project from it; it is in the meridian of the +observatory of Endeavour River; and in latitude 14 degrees 40 minutes. + +o is a small coral reef; it lies a mile and a half North 64 degrees West +from the north end of n. + +p is a coral reef, about a mile in extent, separated from o by a channel +of a mile wide. + +q, a reef, on which are two low wooded isles, apparently connected with a +shoal extending from Point Lookout along the shore to the +West-North-West; the isles are seven miles North 64 degrees West from +Point Lookout. + +COLES ISLANDS consist of four small bushy islets from a quarter to half a +mile in extent; they are from four to six miles North-East from Point +Murdoch. This group appeared to be merely the several dry parts of the +shoal that extends from Point Lookout to Noble Island; between them and +the latter island, are two patches of dry sandy keys, but it is probable +that they may be covered by the tide. The continuation of the shoal +between the islands and Point Lookout was not clearly ascertained. + +At POINT MURDOCH, which has a peaked hill at its extremity, the hills +again approach the coast; at Cape Bowen they project into the sea, and +separate two bays, in each of which there is possibly a rivulet; that to +the eastward of the cape trends in and forms a deep bight. On the western +side of the hills of Cape Bowen there is a track of low land, separating +them from another rocky range. The summit of the hill at Point Murdoch is +in latitude 14 degrees 40 minutes, and longitude 144 degrees 46 minutes. + +HOWICK'S GROUP consists of ten or eleven islands, of which Number 1, +remarkable for a hillock at its south-east end, is in latitude 14 degrees +32 minutes 40 seconds, and longitude 144 degrees 55 minutes 20 seconds; +it is nearly three miles long; the rest are all less than half a mile in +extent, excepting the westernmost, Number 6, which is nearly a mile and a +half in diameter. + +The passage between 2 and 3 is safe, and has seven and eight fathoms: the +north-west side of 3 is of rocky approach, but the opposite side of the +strait is bold to; the anchorage is tolerably good. The Mermaid drove, +but it was not considered to be caused by the nature of the bottom, which +is of soft sand, and free from rocks. + +The channel between 1 and 2 appeared to be very rocky, and shoal: between +1 and the reef r there is probably a clear channel of about a mile wide: +the north-east end of 1 has a reef which extends off it for half a mile. + +(*Footnote. Many shoals, partly dry, occupy the space to the northward +and eastward of Howick's Group. Roe manuscript.) + +All the islands are low and wooded, and surrounded by a coral reef of +small extent. + +4 has a small islet off its west end. + +5, 8, and 9 did not appear to have any reefs projecting from them. 7 is +probably two islands, with a reef extending for half a mile on its +western side. 6 is of larger size than the generality of the low islands +hereabout, Number 1 excepted: its centre is in latitude 14 degrees 28 +minutes, and longitude 144 degrees 45 minutes. The position of Number 10 +was not correctly ascertained. + +The peak of CAPE BOWEN is in latitude 14 degrees 34 minutes, and +longitude 144 degrees 35 minutes 40 seconds. + +NOBLE ISLAND is a rock, having a sandy, or a coral beach at its +north-west end; although small it is very conspicuous; and, when first +seen from the southward, has the appearance of a rock with a double +rounded top. + +The REEFS s, t, and u are unconnected; the north end of s, lying six +miles and a half due east from Point Barrow, was dry for a considerable +extent; t, one mile to the north, was covered; but there is a dry sandy +key on u, bearing from Point Barrow, North 32 degrees East, six miles: +some rocks showed themselves above the water off its south end. + +v and w may possibly be connected; the former was noticed to extend for +three miles, and the latter for nearly ten miles; there was, however, a +space of three miles between them, where a channel may possibly exist. +The channels between t and u, and between v and w, appeared to be clear +and deep. + +The REEFS x, y, and Z, are probably parts of the barrier reefs, for the +sea was breaking very heavily upon their outer edge; there were, however, +considerable spaces where no breakers appeared, some of which, being +three or four miles wide, may possibly be as many outlets to sea. + +NINIAN BAY is a bight to the west of Point Barrow;* it is about three +miles deep, and has a small opening at the bottom; in crossing it we had +not more water than four fathoms, and within our course it appeared to be +very shoal: there is doubtless a channel leading to the opening; but, to +the name of harbour or port, it has not the slightest pretension: it was +named Port Ninian by Lieutenant Jeffreys: off the north end of Point +Barrow are two rocky islands. + +(*Footnote. Off Point Barrow, the shoals lie from half to one mile nearer +the shore, than they are laid down; and one mile and three quarters North +55 degrees East from the point are two small patches of coral, under +water; they bear North-East and South-West from each other and are +probably one tenth of a mile apart. Roe manuscript.) + +Between Ninian Bay and Cape Melville the coast is high and rocky, but +appeared to be fronted by a reef, which in some places extends for a mile +and a half from the shore; in this interval there are two or three sandy +beaches, but I doubt the practicability of landing upon them in a boat. +The summit and sides of the hills that form the promontory, of which Cape +Melville is the extreme, are of most remarkable appearance, being covered +with heaps of rounded stones of very large size (volume 1.) + +CAPE MELVILLE, sloping off into the sea to the north, terminates this +remarkable promontory in latitude 14 degrees 9 minutes 30 seconds, and +longitude 144 degrees 24 minutes 50 seconds: the coast trends round it to +the South-South-West and South-West, and forms Bathurst Bay, which is +nine miles and a half deep, and thirteen wide, the western side being +formed by Flinders' Group. A reef extends for more than two miles off +Cape Melville in a North West by North direction, on which some rounded +stones, similar to those upon the land, are heaped up above the sea: +there is also one of these heaps at the extremity of the reef, outside, +and within a quarter of a mile of which we had fourteen fathoms water: +there are two other similar heaps within the outer pile, and between them +there are possibly clear passages, but they should not be attempted +without great caution. It was remarked that the breeze always freshened +on passing round this cape. + +PIPON ISLANDS, two small islets, of which the easternmost is the largest, +are in latitude 14 degrees 6 minutes 40 seconds, longitude 144 degrees 26 +minutes 5 seconds; they are surrounded by a reef, lying two miles and a +half from the cape; between them and the reef that extends from the cape, +there is a safe and deep passage of more than a mile wide. + +The south-east side of Bathurst Bay is shoal. At the bottom are two +openings, with some projecting land between them, at the extremity of +which there is a peak; these openings are doubtless rivulets of +considerable size, and take their rise from the high land at the back of +Cape Bowen. + +FLINDERS' GROUP forms the west head of Bathurst Bay; they are high and +rocky, and consist of four islands, two of which are three miles long. +The peak of the largest island, in latitude 14 degrees 11 minutes 5 +seconds, and longitude 144 degrees 12 minutes 5 seconds, is visible from +a distance of twelve or thirteen leagues; and the higher parts of the +islands may be seen generally at seven or eight leagues. + +On the eastern side of the northernmost island there is a bay fronted by +a coral reef, but it is too exposed to the prevailing winds to be safe. +It is here that the Frederick (merchant ship) was wrecked in 1818. + +CAPE FLINDERS, in latitude 14 degrees 8 minutes, longitude 144 degrees 10 +minutes 20 seconds, is the north extremity of the island; it may be +passed close to with twelve fathoms: the best anchorage is under the +flat-topped hill, at a quarter of a mile from the shore, in ten fathoms +mud. The variation is 5 degrees 20 minutes East. It is high water at full +and change at a quarter past nine. + +In the offing is a low wooded island of more than a mile in diameter. + +CLACK'S ISLAND is a high rock, situated at the south-east end of reef b, +in latitude 14 degrees 4 minutes 45 seconds, and longitude 144 degrees 11 +minutes 45 seconds, and, being a bare black rock, with no apparent +vegetation, is a conspicuous object: there is another rock on its +north-east end. (See above.) The reef is of circular shape, and three +miles in diameter. + +The shoal marked a was not seen by us. H.M. sloop Satellite struck upon +it in June, 1822, on her passage to India. The following marks for it +were obligingly communicated to me by Captain M.J. Currie, of H.M. sloop +Satellite, who sent a boat to examine it upon her second voyage the +following year: + +"In crossing the northern part of Bathurst Bay, and nearly in +mid-channel, between Cape Flinders and the low wooded island, there is a +small patch of sunken rocks, lying north and south, not more than a +cable's length in extent, the least water being one fathom. The Satellite +grounded on them in two fathoms, in June, 1822. I sent a boat to examine +this shoal in making the same passage in August, 1823, and found it to be +under the following bearings (by compass): namely, Cape Flinders, +South-West by West 3/4 West; the high peak on the south-east part of +Flinders' Group, South 1/4 West; the highest of Clack's Islands, +North-West 1/2 West, and Cape Melville East 1/2 South. It is a dangerous +shoal in running for Cape Flinders, but may be easily avoided by steering +near the low wooded island, to the north-east of the cape, or by keeping +the shore of Flinders' Group on board, which is perhaps preferable. The +variation is 5 degrees 40 minutes East."* + +(*Footnote. The shoal is in a line with, and half way between, the +flat-topped hill on the north island of Flinders' Group, and the centre +of the low wooded island, and is nearly joined to some shoal-water that +extends for two miles from the latter island. Roe manuscript.) + +PRINCESS CHARLOTTE'S BAY is an extensive bight in the coast, twenty-two +miles deep, and thirty-one broad; its shores are low, and at the bottom +in latitude 14 degrees 29 minutes there is a mangrove opening. + +JANE'S TABLE LAND, in latitude 14 degrees 29 minutes 15 seconds and +longitude 144 degrees 4 minutes 45 seconds, is a remarkable flat-topped +hill at the bottom of the bay, rising abruptly from the surrounding low +land: it is about five miles from the coast; its summit, by the angle it +subtended, is about a mile in length. Excepting this hill, no other high +land was seen at the bottom of the bay. + +On the western side the land rises to a moderate height, and forms a bank +of about ten miles in extent, but this was not visible for more than +three or four leagues. To the north of this no part of the interior can +be seen until in latitude 13 degrees 55 minutes, when the south end of a +ridge of hills commences at about seven miles behind the beach, which it +gradually approaches until it reaches the coast in 13 degrees 35 minutes, +and is terminated by a round hill; the coast then extends with a low +sandy beach for eleven miles to Cape Sidmouth. + +c is a covered reef of coral, extending North-East by East and South-West +by West for seventeen miles: its south-west end bears North 75 degrees +West, twelve miles and a half, from Cape Flinders. + +d, e, and f, are three coral banks, having dry sandy keys on each; they +are of circular shape, and from a mile to a third of a mile in diameter: +d is the largest, and bears nearly due-west from Cape Flinders, from +which it is distant twelve miles and a half. + +g and h are two coral reefs; but it was not ascertained whether they are +connected to each other or not: they may also be joined to c, and indeed +this supposition is very likely to be correct, for we found the water +quite smooth, and little or no set of tide on passing them. On the +southwest extremity of g, in latitude 14 degrees 1 minute 20 seconds, +longitude 143 degrees 50 minutes, there is a dry sandy key, as there is +also upon h, but on the latter there are also rocks, and the sand is dry +for four or five miles along its north-west side: the south-west end of h +is in latitude 13 degrees 59 minutes, longitude 143 degrees 49 minutes. + +i is a circular coral reef, of a mile and a quarter in diameter, and has +a dry sandy key at its north-west end; it is two miles North-North-West +from the south-west end of h. + +k is a small reef with a sandy key upon it, four miles to the east of +Pelican Island. + +PELICAN ISLAND is on the north-west side of a reef of more than a mile +and a half long: it is very small, but remarkable for having two clumps +of trees, which at a distance give it the appearance of being two small +islets: it is low, and, like the other islands of its character, may be +seen at ten miles from the deck: its latitude is 13 degrees 54 minutes 45 +seconds, and longitude 143 degrees 46 minutes. (See volume 1.) + +l is a long narrow coral reef, extending in a North-North-East direction: +it is thirteen miles in extent, but generally not more than one-third of +a mile wide: its greatest width is not more than a mile and a half: its +south-west end is five miles and three-quarters north from Pelican +Island. + +m is an extensive coral reef, extending for fifteen miles in North East +by North direction, parallel with l, from which it is separated by a +channel of from one to two miles wide. At its south-west end, where there +is an extensive dry sandy key, and some dry rocks, it is two miles wide: +but towards its northern end it tapers away to the breadth of a quarter +of a mile. The south trend of its south-west end lies seven miles North +44 degrees West from Pelican Island, and four miles from Island 2 of +Claremont Isles. + +n is another extensive reef, which may possibly be connected with m. At +its westernmost end, about four miles North by East 1/2 East from the +west end of m., is a dry sand of small extent. + +It was considered probable that there was a safe passage between the +reefs l and m. We steered so far as to see the termination of the latter, +upon which the sea was breaking, which afforded a proof of its not being +connected with the former, which also the dark colour of the water +sufficiently indicated. + +The Mermaid was nearly lost in attempting to cross the latter reef. +(Volume 1.) + +CLAREMONT ISLES consist of five small islets, numbered from 1 to 5; they +are of coral formation, and are covered with small brushwood; they are +from six to seven miles apart, excepting 4 and 5, which are separated by +a channel only a mile and a half wide: off the east and south-east end of +5, a coral reef extends for a mile and a half to the eastward, having two +dry rocks on its north-east end. + +COLUMN 1: CLAREMONT ISLE. +COLUMN 2: LATITUDE IN DEGREES, MINUTES, SECONDS. +COLUMN 3: LONGITUDE IN DEGREES, MINUTES, SECONDS. + +Number 1 : 13 56 20 : 143 40 30. + +Number 2 : 13 51 30 : 143 37 30. + +Number 3 : 13 46 45 : 143 33 20. + +Number 4 : 13 40 00 : 143 36 20. + +Reef o extends in an east and west direction for a mile and a half, and +at a mile farther there is another reef, that may be connected to it; o +has a dry sand near its western extremity, in latitude 13 degrees 34 +minutes, and longitude 143 degrees 38 minutes 45 seconds. + +Islet 6, in latitude 13 degrees 29 minutes, longitude 143 degrees 38 +minutes 26 seconds, is a very small, low, woody islet, with a reef +extending for three-quarters of a mile off its north and south ends. + +A reef lies two miles and one-third North 72 1/2 degrees West from islet +6, and South 59 degrees East from the summit of Cape Sidmouth; this reef +is not more than a quarter of a mile in extent, and has a rock in its +centre, that is uncovered at half tide; it is a brown looking shoal, and +therefore of dangerous approach. + +Off ROUND HILL there is a sandbank covered by the sea; it lies about two +miles from the shore, and about East-North-East from Round Hill summit. + +q is a small, brown, rocky shoal, that is not visible until close to it; +it bears South 60 degrees East, four miles from the extremity of Cape +Sidmouth. + +CAPE SIDMOUTH is rather an elevated point, having higher land behind it; +and at about nine miles in the interior, to the West-North-West, there is +a rounded summit: at the extremity of the cape there are two remarkable +lumps on the land, in latitude 13 degrees 24 minutes 20 seconds, and +longitude 143 degrees 30 minutes. The cape is fronted by several rocky +shoals, and ought not to be approached within four miles. + +r is a sandbank, on which we had two and a half fathoms; but from the +nature of the other neighbouring reefs, s and t, it is perhaps rocky +also, and may be connected with them. It lies four miles and a quarter +North 32 degrees East from Cape Sidmouth, and West 1/2 North from islet +7. + +6 1/2 and 7 are two bare sandy islets, situated at the north ends of +reefs extending in a North-North-West direction; the reef off the islet 6 +1/2 is four miles and a half in length, and that off 7 is two miles and a +half long: 6 1/2 is in latitude 13 degrees 23 minutes 20 seconds, +longitude 143 degrees 39 minutes 30 seconds; 7, in latitude 13 degrees 21 +minutes 20 seconds, and longitude 143 degrees 36 minutes 10 seconds. + +8 and 9 are two low, woody islets of about a mile and a quarter in +diameter. Some shoal marks on the water were observed opposite these +islands, but their existence was not ascertained. Both the islets are +surrounded by coral reefs, of small extent. + +NIGHT ISLAND, its north end in latitude 13 degrees 13 minutes 8 seconds, +and longitude 143 degrees 28 minutes 40 seconds, is a low woody island, +two miles long, but not more than half a mile wide; it is surrounded by a +coral reef, that does not extend more than a quarter of a mile from its +northern end. On the south side, and within it, the space seemed to be +much occupied by reefs, but they were not distinctly made out, on account +of the thickness of the weather. There was also the appearance of a +covered shoal, bearing North 55 degrees East from the north end of the +island, distant four miles.* + +(*Footnote. Observed many shoals to the North-West of Night Island; one +bore East-North-East, two miles and a half from its north point; we saw +much shoal water to seaward. Roe manuscript.) + +u and w are two reefs; the former, which was dry when we passed, lies six +miles North 18 degrees West from the north end of Night Island; there is +also a small rock detached from it, which is not visible until close to +it. + +v is a covered coral reef, of about a mile and a quarter in extent; its +centre is in 13 degrees 1 minute latitude. + +SHERRARD'S ISLETS are low and bushy, and surrounded by a rocky shoal +extending for a mile to the South-East; the south-westernmost is in 12 +degrees 58 minutes 10 seconds latitude, and 143 degrees 30 minutes 15 +seconds longitude. + +10 is a low wooded islet, in latitude 12 degrees 53 minutes 10 seconds, +on a reef of small extent; abreast of it is a rocky islet, lying about a +mile and a half south from CAPE DIRECTION; off its east end is a smaller +rock. + +The coast between Cape Sidmouth and Cape Direction is rather high, and +the shore is formed by a sandy beach. Ten miles North-West from the +former cape is an opening in the hills; the high land then continues to +the northward to Cape Direction, which has a peak near its extremity, +close off which are two small rocks, but the depth at a mile and a half +off is thirteen fathoms. The peak is in latitude 12 degrees 51 minutes 55 +seconds, and longitude 143 degrees 26 minutes 10 seconds.* + +(*Footnote. Shoal water extends for about six miles round the north side +of Cape Direction. Roe manuscript.) + +x; the position of this reef was not precisely ascertained; it appeared +to be about two miles to the North-North-West of the extremity of the +cape. + +y and z are two covered reefs, of not more than a mile in extent; they +are separated from each other by a channel a mile wide; y is four miles +and a half North 51 degrees East from Cape Direction. + +a and b are also covered reefs; the former is a mile and a quarter in +length; the latter extends for two miles in an east direction, and is a +mile broad: a bears nearly east, nine miles, from a peaked hill on the +shore, and is five miles to the south of Cape Weymouth. + +LLOYD'S BAY was not examined; it appeared to have a considerable opening +at its south-west end, where the land was very low; the hilly country to +the south of Cape Direction also ceases, and there is a considerable +space of low land between them and the south end of Cape Weymouth range. + +CAPE WEYMOUTH is an elevated point, sloping off from a high summit; its +extreme is in latitude 12 degrees 37 minutes 15 seconds, and longitude +143 degrees 20 minutes 35 seconds. RESTORATION ISLAND, off the cape, is +high, and of conical shape; about a mile East-South-East from it is a +small rocky islet. The coast then extends towards Bolt Head, and forms +several sinuosities, one of which is WEYMOUTH BAY of Captain Cook; the +shores of the bay were not well examined.* + +(*Footnote. There is a dry sand four or five miles North-West from Cape +Weymouth. Roe manuscript.) + +FAIR CAPE, so named by Lieutenant Bligh, is a projection of high land, in +latitude 12 degrees 25 minutes, longitude 143 degrees 11 minutes 15 +seconds: it has a reef off it according to Lieutenant Jeffrey's account, +but its situation does not appear to have been correctly ascertained: we +did not see it. + +BOLT HEAD is the north-west end of the high land at the south end of +TEMPLE BAY. It is here that the high land terminates; the coast to the +northward being very low and sandy; with the exception of CAPE GRENVILLE, +which is the rocky projection that forms the north extremity of Temple +Bay. A little to the south of the cape is INDIAN BAY of Lieutenant Bligh. +The latitude of Cape Grenville's east trend is 11 degrees 57 minutes 30 +seconds, its longitude 143 degrees 8 minutes. + +c is a coral reef, with a dry sandy key at its northern end, in latitude +12 degrees 35 minutes 20 seconds, longitude 143 degrees 25 minutes 15 +seconds; it is about two miles long. + +d, a small oval-shaped reef in the channel between c and e: it is +covered, and has perhaps twelve feet water over it. + +e is an extensive coral reef, fourteen miles long, commencing in latitude +12 degrees 32 1/2 minutes, and extending to 12 degrees 24 minutes; and in +longitude 143 degrees 16 minutes: it is entirely covered, except a few +dry rocks at its north-west end: the south-eastern extremity of the reef +is perhaps three or four miles wide, but its eastern termination was not +clearly distinguished. + +f is a small reef, about three miles South-West from QUOIN ISLAND, which +is a small wedge-shaped rock: it is in the neighbourhood of this reef +that the merchant ship, Morning Star, was lost. Quoin Island is in +latitude 12 degrees 24 minutes, and longitude 143 degrees 23 minutes 50 +seconds. + +g is a coral reef, ten miles long, and from one to two broad; having a +dry rock upon it (in latitude 12 degrees 18 minutes 20 seconds, and +longitude 143 degrees 14 minutes 35 seconds) about three miles from its +north end. + +FORBES' ISLANDS are high and rocky, but appeared to be clothed with +vegetation; the group occupies a space of about two miles. The summit of +Forbes' Island is in latitude 12 degrees 16 minutes 35 seconds, and +longitude 143 degrees 18 minutes 50 seconds. + +h, a coral reef, with some dry rocks near its north end, is about one +mile long, and separated from i by a narrow pass. The south end of h +bears from the summit of Forbes' Island West 1/4 South seven miles. + +i and k, coral reefs, lying North-West, having a very narrow channel +between them; the former is covered, but the latter has a dry sandy key +at its north-west end, in latitude 12 degrees 12 minutes 20 seconds, and +longitude 143 degrees 10 minutes 5 seconds. + +PIPER'S ISLETS are four low bushy islets upon two circular reefs, with a +passage separating them of a quarter of a mile wide; the reefs have each +two islets upon them, and a dry rocky key round their western edge: the +centre of the narrowest part of the channel between them is twelve and a +half fathoms deep, but abreast the south end of the south-easternmost +shoal there is ten and a half fathoms. + +l, a circular coral reef, a mile and a half in diameter, with a dry rock +at its east end, in latitude 12 degrees 9 minutes 5 seconds, and +longitude 143 degrees 11 minutes. + +YOUNG ISLAND, a small islet on a coral reef of about half a mile in +extent, in latitude 12 degrees 6 minutes 50 seconds, and longitude 143 +degrees 7 minutes. (See volume 1.) + +m, a coral reef, about two and a half miles long, having a dry rock at +its north end; it bears South 40 degrees West, three miles from the +summit of Haggerston's Island. + +n, an extensive, irregular-shaped, coral reef, seven miles long, and from +one to four broad; it is separated from o by a narrow tortuous channel, +but not safe to pass through: both n and o are covered. There is a safe +passage between these reefs and Haggerston's Island, of a mile and a half +wide; but there is a small reef detached from the north-west end of n, +which should be avoided, although there is probably sufficient depth of +water over it for any ship: it was seen from the summit of the island, +from whence another coral patch was observed at about one mile to the +westward, of which we saw no signs. + +p is a small reef, of about a mile and a quarter in extent; it was seen +from the summit of Haggerston's Island, as was also another reef, seven +miles South by East from it: the positions of these reefs are doubtful. + +HAGGERSTON'S ISLAND is high and rocky; the summit is in latitude 12 +degrees 1 minute 40 seconds, and longitude 143 degrees 12 minutes; it is +situated at the South-South-West extremity of a coral reef, of nearly two +miles in length; its northern side is furnished with some trees and a +sandy beach. At the north end of the reef are two dry patches of sand and +rocks. It is separated from the islands of Sir Everard Home's Group by a +channel nearly three miles wide, quite free from danger; but in passing +through it, the tide or current sets to the North-North-West, round the +reef off Haggerston's Island. (See volume 1.) + +SIR EVERARD HOME'S GROUP consists of six islands: the two +south-westernmost are rocky, and one of them has two peaks upon it, +which, from the southward, have the appearance of being upon the +extremity of Cape Grenville: the south-easternmost has a hillock, or +clump of trees, at its south-east extremity, in latitude 11 degrees 57 +minutes 40 seconds, and longitude 143 degrees 11 minutes. The outer part +of this group is bold to, and the islands may be approached, but the +space within them appeared to be rocky: there is a passage between the +group and Cape Grenville. The merchant ship Lady Elliot in passing +through it, found overfalls with eighteen fathoms. + +Round Cape Grenville is MARGARET BAY, fronted by SUNDAY ISLAND, elevated +and rocky, but not so high as Haggerston's Island, with good anchorage +under its lee. + +q is a covered reef of about a mile in extent, in latitude 11 degrees 55 +minutes, five or six miles to the East-North-East of Sir Everard Home's +Group. + +SIR CHARLES HARDY'S ISLANDS are high and rocky, and may be seen five or +six leagues off; the summit is in latitude 11 degrees 53 minutes 20 +seconds, and longitude 143 degrees 23 minutes 40 seconds. + +r is a covered reef; and s, a reef, with a dry sandy key upon it. + +COCKBURN ISLES are rocky, and may be seen four leagues off.* + +(*Footnote. There is a dry sand bearing South-West by West 1/2 West, two +miles and a half from the southernmost Cockburn Island, and there are +many shoals of great extent to the northward of the group. Roe +manuscript.) + +t and u are two reefs that were seen at a distance, and appeared to be +detached from each other. + +BIRD ISLES (the Lagoon Islands of Lieutenant Bligh) consist of three low +bushy islets encompassed by a reef: the islands are at the outer verge of +the reef, and may be passed within a quarter of a mile; the north-east +island is in latitude 11 degrees 44 minutes 15 seconds, and longitude 142 +degrees 58 minutes 45 seconds. + +McARTHUR'S ISLES consist of four low bushy islets, of which two are very +small; they are encompassed by a reef of more than three miles long, and +are separated from the Bird Isles by a channel three miles and a half +wide. + +HANNIBAL'S ISLES are three in number, low and covered with bushes, the +easternmost is near the extremity of the reef encircling the whole, and +is in latitude 11 degrees 34 minutes 15 seconds, and longitude 142 +degrees 51 minutes 20 seconds.* + +(*Footnote. There is a dry sand at one mile and three-quarters, and +another at two miles and a half North-North-West from North Hannibal +Island.) + +v and w; these shoals are separated by a safe channel of a mile and a +quarter wide; v is circular, and has a dry sand at its north-west edge, +and a rocky key at its south-west end; the channel between it and +Hannibal's Islands is two miles and a half wide: w is nearly four miles +long, and is entirely covered; the course between them is west, but, by +hauling close round the east end of v, a West by North 1/2 North course +will carry a vessel a quarter of a mile to leeward of the west end of w; +the north-west extreme of w is three miles and a quarter South 35 degrees +West from Islet 1. + +The islets 1 and 2 are contained in a triangular-shaped reef, of about a +mile and three quarters in extent; they are covered with low trees. Islet +1 is in latitude 11 degrees 28 minutes 45 seconds. Number 3 is a sandy +islet crowned with bushes at the north-west end of a coral reef of about +a mile and a half in length. Between the two latter reefs there appeared +to be a channel of a mile wide in the direction of about North-West. 4, +5, and 6, are sandy islets covered with bushes, on small detached reefs, +with, apparently, a passage between each: 4 is in latitude 11 degrees 22 +minutes 30 seconds. 7, a small bushy island,* is separated from +CAIRNCROSS ISLAND by a channel two miles wide. The latter is a small +woody island, situated at the north-west end of a coral reef, more than +two miles long and one broad; the north-west point of the reef runs off +with a sharp point for about a quarter of a mile from the islet. There is +good anchorage under it, but the depth is fifteen fathoms, and the sea is +rather heavy at times with the tide setting against the wind; the +latitude of its centre is 11 degrees 33 minutes 30 seconds, and its +longitude 142 degrees 50 minutes 35 seconds. (See volume 1 and above.) + +(*Footnote. A rocky reef extends for two miles to the southward of islet +7. Roe manuscript.) + +8, 9, and 10, are low, woody islets: 8 is five miles to the eastward of +Cairncross Island; 9 and 10 are to the northward of 8. + +11 is also low and woody, but its position was not clearly ascertained. + +ORFORDNESS is a sandy projection of the coast under Pudding-pan Hill (of +Bligh) the shape of which, being flat-topped, is very remarkable: the +hill is in latitude 11 degrees 18 minutes 30 seconds, and longitude 142 +degrees 43 minutes 35 seconds. + +The country between Cape Grenville and Cape York is low and sandy, with +but few sinuosities in its coast line: it is exposed to the trade wind, +which often blows with great strength, from South-East and South-East by +East. + +ESCAPE RIVER, in 10 degrees 57 1/2 minutes, is an opening in the land of +one mile in breadth, trending in for two or three miles, when it turns to +the north, and is concealed from the view; the land on the north side of +the entrance is probably an island, for an opening was observed in +Newcastle Bay, trending to the south, which may communicate with the +river. The entrance is defended by a bar, on which the Mermaid was nearly +lost. (Volume 1.) The deepest channel may probably be near the south +head, which is rocky. The banks on the south side are wooded, and present +an inviting aspect. + +NEWCASTLE BAY is nine miles in extent by six deep; its shores are low, +and apparently of a sandy character; at the bottom there is a +considerable opening bearing West 1/4 North eight miles and a half from +Turtle Island. + +Off the south head of the bay is TURTLE ISLAND, a small rocky islet on +the east side of an extensive reef, in latitude 10 degrees 54 minutes, +and longitude 142 degrees 38 minutes 40 seconds; it is separated by a +channel three miles wide from reef x, which has a dry sand at its north +end, in latitude 10 degrees 53 minutes, and longitude 142 degrees 42 +minutes, it has also some dry rocks and a mangrove bush on the inner part +of its south end. + +Four miles to the north of x are two shoals y and Z, both of which are +covered; y is two miles and a half long, and three miles and a quarter; +neither of them appeared to be a mile in width; the north-west end of z, +when in a line with Mount Adolphus, bears North 19 degrees West. + +Off the north head of Newcastle Bay, which forms the south-east trend of +the land of Cape York, is a group of high rocky islands, ALBANY ISLES; +and immediately off the point is a reef, which extends for about a mile; +half a mile without its edge, we had ten fathoms. + +The islets 12, 13, and 15, were only seen at a distance. + +THE BROTHERS, so called in Lieutenant Bligh's chart, are two high rocks +upon a reef. + +ALBANY ISLES contain six islands, of which one only is of large size; the +easternmost has a small peak, and a reef extends for less than a quarter +of a mile from it; the peak is in latitude 10 degrees 43 minutes 45 +seconds, and longitude 142 degrees 35 minutes 5 seconds. + +YORK ISLES is a group about seven miles from the mainland; the principal +island, which is not more than two miles long, has a very conspicuous +flat-topped hill upon it, MOUNT ADOLPHUS,* in latitude 10 degrees 38 +minutes 20 seconds, and longitude 142 degrees 36 minutes 25 seconds. Off +the south-east end of this island are two rocky islets, the southernmost +of which is more than a mile distant; the northern group of the York +Isles are laid down from Captain Flinders. + +(*Footnote. There is a bay on the west side or Mount Adolphus, but it +appeared shoal. Roe manuscript.) + +CAPE YORK, the northernmost land of New South Wales, has a conical hill +half a mile within its extremity, the situation of which is in 10 degrees +42 minutes 40 seconds South, and 142 degrees 28 minutes 50 seconds East +of Greenwich. There is also an island close to the point with a conical +hill upon it, which has perhaps been hitherto taken for the cape; from +which it is separated by a shoal strait half a mile wide; the latitude of +the summit is 10 degrees 41 minutes 35 seconds, and longitude 142 degrees +28 minutes 25 seconds. From this island a considerable shoal extends to +the westward for six miles towards a peaked hill on the extremity of a +point. In the centre of this shoal are some dry rocks. + +At the distance of nearly five miles from the above island is the rocky +islet a, in latitude 10 degrees 36 minutes 50 seconds, and longitude 142 +degrees 27 minutes 45 seconds; it is of small size, and surrounded by +deep water; and, being easily seen from the strait between Cape York and +the York Isles, serves to direct the course. + +POSSESSION ISLES consist of nine or ten islets, of which 2 and 7 only are +of large size, and neither of these are two miles long; they are also +higher than the others. Number 1 is a small conical hill; 2 is hummocky; +3, 4, and 6, are very small; 5 makes with a hollow in its centre, like +the seat of a saddle. The passage between 2 and the small islets 3 and 4 +is the best; there is six and seven fathoms water; but in passing this, +it must be recollected that the tide sets towards the islands on the +northern side. + +ENDEAVOUR STRAIT is on the south side of Prince of Wales' Islands: a +shoal extends from Cape Cornwall (latitude 10 degrees 45 minutes 45 +seconds, longitude 142 degrees 8 minutes 35 seconds) to the westward, and +is probably connected with a strip of sand that stretches from Wallis' +Isles to Shoal Cape. We crossed it with the cape bearing about East, when +the least depth was four fathoms; but on many parts there are not more +than three fathoms. Variation 5 degrees 38 minutes West. + +PRINCE OF WALES ISLANDS are much intersected by straits and openings, +that are very little known; there was an appearance of a good port, a +little to the South-West of HORNED HILL (latitude 10 degrees 36 minutes +35 seconds, longitude 142 degrees 15 minutes) which may probably +communicate with Wolf's Bay; the strait to the south of Wednesday Island +also offers a good port in the eastern entrance of some rocky islands and +without them is the rock b, with some sunken dangers near it. + +WEDNESDAY ISLAND; its north end, in latitude 10 degrees 30 minutes 10 +seconds, and longitude 142 degrees 15 minutes, may be approached close, +but a considerable shoal stretches off its western side, the greater part +of which is dry. + +Off HAMMOND'S ISLAND is a high, conspicuous rock, bearing West 3/4 South, +and five miles and three-quarters from the north end of Wednesday Island. +Captain Flinders passed through the strait separating Wednesday Island +from Hammond's Islands, and had four, five, and six fathoms. + +Abreast of the strait separating GOOD'S ISLAND from the latter is the +reef c, on which are several dry rocks, but abreast of it, and one mile +and one quarter from it, is the reef d,* which is generally covered; the +latter bears South 75 degrees West three miles and a quarter from the +rock off Hammond's Island, and about North 45 degrees West two and a +quarter miles from the opening between Good and Hammond's Island; the +marks for avoiding it are given in the sailing directions. + +(*Footnote. d consists of three small detached patches, that extend +farther off than is at first observed. There is also a narrow strip of +rocks extending for a short distance off the north-east end of the reef +off Hammond's Island. Roe manuscript.) + +Abreast of Wednesday, Hammond, and Good's Islands, is the NORTH-WEST +REEF, an extensive coral bank, many parts of which are dry; it is ten or +eleven miles long; the channel between it and the islands is from one +mile and three-quarters to two miles and a quarter wide. + +BOOBY ISLAND (latitude of its centre 10 degrees 36 minutes, longitude 141 +degrees 52 minutes 50 seconds) is a small rocky islet of scarcely a third +of a mile in diameter; its south-west end has a shoal projecting from it +for half a mile, but its other sides are bold to. In a North 70 degrees +East direction from it, at the distance of two miles and three-quarters, +is a sandbank with three fathoms; it was discovered by the ships Claudine +and Mary, on their passage through Torres Strait, when it was named +LARPENT'S BANK.* + +(*Footnote. It is near the west end of a shoal of five miles in length, +extending in an east and west direction, a few feet only below the +surface of the water. Roe manuscript.) + +... + + +APPENDIX A. SECTION 3. + +DESCRIPTION OF THE WINDS AND WEATHER, AND OF THE PORTS AND COAST BETWEEN +WESSEL'S ISLANDS AND CLARENCE STRAIT. + +In the sea that separates the land of New Guinea and the islands of Timor +Laut and Arroo from the north coast of Australia, the winds are +periodical, and are called the east and west monsoons, for such is their +direction in the mid-sea. Near the Coast of New Holland the regularity of +these winds is partly suspended by the rarefied state of the atmosphere; +this produces land and sea-breezes, but the former are principally from +the quarter from which the winds are blowing in the mid sea. The usual +course of the winds near the coast in the months of April, May, and June, +is as follows: after a calm night, the land-wind springs up at daylight +from South or South-South-East; it then usually freshens, but, as the sun +gets higher, and the land becomes heated, gradually decreases. At noon +the sea-wind rushes in towards the land, and generally blows fresh from +East; at sunset it veers to the North-East, and falls calm, which lasts +the whole night, so that if a ship, making a course, does not keep at a +moderate distance from the land, she is subject to delay; she would not, +however, probably have so fresh a breeze in the day time. Later in the +season of the easterly monsoon, in August, September, and October, calms +are frequent, and the heat is sultry and oppressive; this weather +sometimes lasts for a fortnight or three weeks at a time. The easterly +monsoon commences about the 1st of April, with squally, rainy weather, +but, in a week or ten days, settles to fine weather and steady winds in +the offing, and regular land and sea breezes, as above described, near +the coast. It ceases about the latter end of November or early part of +December; the westerly monsoon may then be expected to blow strong, and +perhaps with regularity. + +This is the rainy season, and is doubtless an unwholesome time; Captain +Flinders' crew experienced much sickness in his examination of the Gulf +of Carpentaria during this monsoon, but, when upon the western side of +the gulf, he thought that the fine weather then experienced might be +occasioned by the monsoon's blowing over the land. In January and +February the monsoon is at its strength, but declines towards the end of +the latter month, and in March becomes variable, with dark, cloudy, and +unsettled weather; the wind is then generally from the South-West, but +not at all regular. + +The current sets with the wind, and seldom exceeds a knot or a knot and a +half per hour; between Capes Wessel and Van Diemen it is not stronger, +and its course in the easterly monsoon, when only we had any experience +of it, was West: the strength is probably increased or diminished by the +state of the wind. + +The tides are of trifling consequence; the flood comes from the eastward, +but rarely rises more than ten feet, or runs so much as a mile and a half +per hour. High water takes place at full and change at Liverpool River, +and Goulburn Island at six o'clock, at the entrance of the Alligator +Rivers in Van Diemen's Gulf, at 8 hours 15 minutes, and at the south end +of Apsley Strait at 3 hours 25 minutes.* The flood-tide comes from the +eastward, excepting when its course is altered by local circumstances; +the rise is not more than eleven feet at the springs. + +(*Footnote. In St. Asaph's Bay, Lieutenant Roe found high-water take +place at full and change at 5 hours 45 minutes; and in King's Cove at 5 +hours 15 minutes; at the latter place it rose fourteen feet.) + +The variation of the compass in this interval is scarcely affected by the +ship's local attraction. Off Cape Wessel it is between 3 and 4 degrees +East; at Liverpool River about 1 3/4 degrees East, at Goulburn Islands 2 +degrees East, and off Cape Van Diemen, not more than 1 1/2 degrees East. + +The dip of the south end of the needle at Goulburn Island was 27 degrees +32 1/2 minutes. + +When the survey of the Gulf of Carpentaria was completed by Captain +Flinders, his vessel proved to be so unfit for continuing the examination +of the north coast, that it was found necessary to return to Port +Jackson; and as he left it at the strait that separates Point Dale from +Wessel's Islands, which is called in my chart BROWN'S STRAIT, he saw no +part of the coast to the westward of that point, nor did he even see Cape +Wessel, the extremity of the range of Wessel's Islands, which terminate +in latitude 10 degrees 59 1/4 minutes, and longitude 135 degrees 46 +minutes 30 seconds. The group consists of four islands, besides some of +smaller size to the southward of the northernmost, and also a few on the +eastern side of Brown's Strait; one of which is Cunningham's Island, of +Captain Flinders. CUMBERLAND STRAIT is in latitude 11 degrees 25 minutes, +longitude 135 degrees 31 minutes. + +POINT DALE, unless it is upon an island, appears to be the east extremity +of the north coast; its latitude is 11 degrees 36 minutes, longitude 135 +degrees 9 minutes: there are several rocky islands of small size, lying +off, encompassed by a reef, which extends for eight miles +North-North-East 1/2 East from the point. In Brown's Strait the tide sets +at the rate of three and a half and four miles per hour; the flood runs +to the southward through the strait. To the westward of Point Dale the +coast extends for about sixty miles to the south-west to Castlereagh Bay; +in which space there are several openings in the beach, that are probably +small rivers: one, ten miles to the South-West, may be a strait +insulating Point Dale, and communicating with Arnhem Bay. + +CASTLEREAGH BAY is forty miles wide, by about eighteen deep; it is +fronted by a group of straggling islands of low coral formation, crowned +with small trees and bushes: the centre of the northernmost islet is in +latitude 11 degrees 41 minutes 50 seconds, longitude 134 degrees 10 +minutes 5 seconds. To the eastward of Cape Stewart, the western head of +the bay, the coast is very much indented, and probably contains several +openings or rivulets, particularly two at the bottom of the bay. The +beach is generally sandy, with rocky points, and the shore is wooded to +the beach; the interior was in no part visible over the coast hills, +which are very low and level. + +From the extremity of CAPE STEWART, which is in latitude 11 degrees 56 +minutes, and longitude 133 degrees 48 minutes, a reef extends to the West +by North 1/2 North for eight miles and a half; having, at a mile within +the extremity, a low sandy key, with a small dry rock half a mile to the +eastward. Every other part of the reef is covered. + +To the westward of Cape Stewart is a sandy bay nearly eleven leagues in +extent, but not more than seven deep; near its western end there is a +small break in the beach, but it did not appear to be of any consequence. + +The extreme point of this bight is the eastern head of LIVERPOOL RIVER, +whose entrance is to the westward of Haul-round Islet; which, as well as +Entrance Island, is connected to the above point by a shoal. Haul-round +Islet is in latitude 11 degrees 54 minutes, and longitude 134 degrees 14 +minutes; Entrance Island is in latitude 11 degrees 57 minutes, and +longitude 134 degrees 14 minutes 50 seconds. + +The entrance is from one and a quarter to two miles wide. The reef +extends for half a mile from Haul-round Islet, close without which the +water is deep, the least depth in the entrance is five and three-quarter +fathoms; and, in some parts there are thirteen and fourteen fathoms: at +seven miles within Haul-round Islet, the depth decreases to four fathoms, +and then gradually shoals to three; after which it varies in the channel +of the river to between nine and twelve feet at low water. A bar crosses +the river at the low mangrove island, over which there is not more than +three feet at low water; but, as the tide rises more than eight feet at +the springs, vessels drawing ten or eleven feet may proceed up the river. + +The stream runs in a very tortuous course for upwards of forty miles, but +as our examination was unassisted by bearings or observations, it is laid +down from an eye sketch. + +POINT BRAITHWAITE, in latitude 11 degrees 45 minutes 50 seconds, and +longitude 133 degrees 55 minutes 20 seconds, is twenty miles to the +westward of Haul-round Islet; to the southward of it is Junction Bay, +which was not examined. + +For the next thirty miles the coast is very much indented, and has some +deep bays on either side of Point Barclay, as also one to the eastward of +Point Turner, at the bottom of which an opening, a mile in width, is +probably a river. Here also the feature of the coast is altered, being +low and level to the eastward as far as Point Dale, without a hill or +rising ground in the interior to relieve its monotonous appearance. At +this place, however, a range of rocky hills, WELLINGTON RANGE, commences, +of about twenty miles in extent: five miles behind it is the Tor +(latitude 11 degrees 54 minutes, and longitude 133 degrees 10 minutes 20 +seconds) a solitary pyramidal rock; and seven miles and a quarter West by +South, from the latter is a peak-topped hill. + +The two latter are apparently unconnected with the range, on which there +are four remarkable ridges, of which the two westernmost are the most +remarkable. + +GOULBURN ISLANDS consist of two islands, each being about twenty miles in +circumference; they are separated from each other by a rocky strait three +miles wide, which in most parts is deep enough for a ship of any size to +pass through; the latitude of the centre of this strait is 11 degrees 32 +minutes. Macquarie Strait separates the southernmost from the main, and +is nearly two miles across: the depth in mid-channel being eighteen +fathoms: the latitude of Retaliation Point, which is on the northern side +of the strait, is in 11 degrees 39 minutes. + +SOUTH WEST BAY affords good anchorage in five and six fathoms at a mile +from the shore, and vessels may anchor at a quarter of a mile off the +beach in three fathoms muddy bottom. + +At the north end of the bay are the Bottle Rocks separated from the point +by a channel two and a quarter fathoms deep. The Bottle Rock was one of +our fixed points, and is placed in latitude 11 degrees 37 minutes 24 +seconds, and longitude 133 degrees 19 minutes 40 seconds. The bay affords +a convenient place for wooding and watering; the latter may be had during +the early months of the dry season (as late as August) from a drain at +the base of the Pipe Clay Cliffs at the north end of the bay. There are +also some holes on Sims Island that contain water for a much later +period. The holes have been made by the Malays for the purpose of +collecting it. + +MULLET BAY is on the west side of the north island, affording good +anchorage in the easterly monsoon in six and seven fathoms mud, at a mile +from the shore. The flood-tide here sets to the eastward, and it is high +water at full and change in the strait at six o'clock; the rise of the +tide is not more than five or six feet. The north-east point of North +Goulburn Island is in latitude 11 degrees 26 minutes, longitude 133 +degrees 26 minutes. + +From Macquarie Strait the land trends to the westward, and north-westward +to De Courcy Head, and forms but few sinuosities. POINT BROGDEN, in +latitude 11 degrees 30 minutes, the only projection in this space, is +remarkable for being higher than usual, and for having a range of cliffs +to the southward of the point; with a solitary tree near its extremity, +hence the land is rocky towards De Courcy Head, which is a cliffy +projection in latitude 11 degrees 17 minutes 30 seconds; thence the shore +continues rocky to Cape Cockburn, a low rocky point, with a conspicuous +tree at its extremity. The point is wooded to within a short distance of +the sea, as is generally the case with the shores of this coast. CAPE +COCKBURN is in latitude 11 degrees 18 minutes, and longitude 132 degrees +53 minutes 5 seconds. + +MOUNTNORRIS BAY extends between Cape Cockburn and Cape Croker, it is +twenty-eight miles wide, and twenty-three deep. It contains several +islands, and is also fronted by a group, of which New Year's Island, the +latitude of whose centre is 10 degrees 55 minutes, and longitude 133 +degrees 0 minutes 36 seconds, is the outermost; the others are named +Oxley, Lawson, McCluer, Grant, Templer, and Cowlard. They are straggling, +and have wide and apparently deep channels between them. Between New +Year's and McCluer's Islands, the channel is nearly eight miles wide and +eighteen and nineteen fathoms deep. A reef extends off the north-west end +of the latter island for nearly three miles, and the ground is rocky and +shoal for some distance off the north-east end of Oxley's Island. Grant's +Island is higher than the others, which are merely small woody islets, +the centre is in 11 degrees 10 minutes. + +At the north-east end of Mountnorris Bay is MALAY BAY which is four miles +wide and six deep; it affords good anchorage in four and five fathoms in +the centre: as it offered no other inducement, we did not land upon any +part of it. Between Valentia Island and Point Annesley, the channel is +more than a mile wide and four fathoms deep. VALENTIA ISLAND has a reef +off its north point, and another off its south-east point, each about a +mile in extent. + +COPELAND ISLAND is small and wedge-shaped, its summit is in latitude 11 +degrees 28 minutes, and longitude 132 degrees 43 minutes; four miles and +a quarter West-North-West from it is a covered sandbank having nine feet +water near its edge; it was not quite certain whether it was joined to +the land or not, from which it is distant two miles and a half. + +On the western side of the bay there is a strait two miles wide +separating Croker's Island from the main; it is ten or eleven miles in +length, and is navigable since the Malay fleet were observed to pass +through it. + +CROKER'S ISLAND is twenty-one miles and a quarter from north to south, +and from two to five broad, its northern extremity is in 10 degrees 58 +minutes 30 seconds latitude, and 132 degrees 34 minutes 10 seconds +longitude; about three-quarters of a mile within it there is a remarkable +rocky knob: its south extreme is in 11 degrees 19 1/4 minutes. + +PALM BAY, on its western side, is an excellent anchorage in the easterly +monsoon; it is four miles and a half wide, and nearly three deep. The +shore is rocky for a mile off, and the south point has a rocky shoal +projecting to the West-North-West for a mile and a quarter. + +DARCH'S ISLAND is separated from Croker's Island by a navigable strait +two miles wide; near the reef at the north-east end we had six fathoms, +but in mid-channel the depth was as much as eleven fathoms. A +considerable reef projects off the east end for more than a mile. The +island is about two miles and three-quarters long, and is thickly wooded; +its north point is in latitude 11 degrees 7 minutes 30 seconds. + +RAFFLES BAY forms a good port during any season; it is seven miles deep, +and from two to three broad: beyond High Point the depth is not more than +three fathoms and a half. The anchorage is however quite safe. + +The bay to the eastward of Point Smith, which has a reef extending from +it for nearly a mile, has a shoal opening at its bottom of very little +importance. At the north-east end of the bay, separated from the point by +a channel a mile wide, and more than five fathoms deep, is a small sandy +island, with a reef extending for a mile off its north end. + +PORT ESSINGTON, the outer heads of which, Vashon Head and Point Smith, +are seven miles apart, is an extensive port, thirteen miles and a quarter +deep, and from five to three wide; independent of its Inner Harbour, +which, with a navigable entrance of a mile wide, is five miles deep and +four wide. The port is not only capacious, but has very few shoals or +dangers in it. + +On the western side, off Island Point, there are some rocks, and also a +reef projects for a mile off the bluff point that forms the east head of +Knocker's Bay. The western side of the entrance to Inner Harbour, is also +rocky and shoal for two-thirds across, but near the opposite point* the +depth is thirteen fathoms. + +(*Footnote. This is Point Record of Captain Bremer, see above.) + +On the eastern side of the port there is no danger beyond a quarter of a +mile from the shore, excepting a reef of rocks, some of which are dry; +this danger, when in a line with a remarkable cliff two miles and a +quarter to the south of Table Point, bears East-South-East 1/2 East; +close without them the depth is five fathoms. + +The INNER HARBOUR is divided into two basins which extend in for two +miles on either side of Middle Head, a cliffy projection, surrounded by a +rocky shore for a quarter of a mile off. The anchorage between the +entrance and Middle Head is in five and six fathoms mud, and in the +centre of the western basin the depth is five fathoms mud. The shores are +higher than usual, and are varied by sandy beaches and cliffs, some of +white and others of a red colour. The western side of the port was not +visited, and our tracks and examinations were made principally on the +opposite shore. At the bottom of Knocker's Bay is a shoal mangrove +opening, of no importance. See volume 1. + +POINT SMITH is in latitude 11 degrees 6 minutes 45 seconds, and longitude +132 degrees 12 minutes 30 seconds. + +VASHON HEAD has a considerable shoal projecting from it, and extending +into the bay to the westward which was called TREPANG BAY. This bay has +an opening at the bottom, that appeared to be shoal. A small sandy island +lies at the distance of a mile and three-quarters from the shore; the +reef projects into the sea for nearly a mile farther, and apparently +extends to the South-West to the north head of POPHAM BAY, which has a +small opening at the bottom, but of shoal approach; good anchorage may be +had in Popham Bay in five and six fathoms, a little within the heads, and +as they bear North and South-South-West, it is well sheltered in the +easterly monsoon. Hence to CAPE DON is three miles and a half. The latter +cape is in latitude 11 degrees 19 minutes 30 seconds, and longitude 131 +degrees 45 minutes 30 seconds. + +VAN DIEMEN'S GULF is seventy miles deep, and more than forty broad. It +has two outlets to sea; the one to the northward, DUNDAS STRAIT, is +sixteen miles wide and very deep; the other, CLARENCE STRAIT, is +seventeen miles wide, and communicates with the sea round the south sides +of Melville and Bathurst Islands: it is probably not so safe as Dundas' +Strait, on account of Vernon's Isles, which lie in mid channel, near its +western end. + +The north eastern side of Van Diemen's Gulf washes the south side of +Coburg Peninsula. It has several bays, and, to the eastward of MOUNTS +BEDWELL and Roe, the shore is fronted by SIR GEORGE HOPE'S ISLANDS, +forming a channel or port within them twenty miles deep and from three to +six broad; the entrance to it is round the north end of GREENHILL ISLAND, +which is separated from the land of the peninsula, by a strait a mile and +a half wide: the depth in mid-channel, for the shore on either side for +half a mile is shoal and rocky, is eighteen fathoms, and within it the +bottom is six, seven, and eight fathoms deep, and principally of mud. +This strait is in latitude 11 degrees 35 minutes. + +The eastern side has several openings in it, but the shores are very low, +and of shoal approach. At its south-east end are the two (and probably +three) Alligator Rivers; the westernmost (or centre) is fronted by FIELD +ISLAND, the centre of which is in 12 degrees 6 minutes latitude, and 132 +degrees 25 minutes 10 seconds longitude. These rivers have been described +in the narrative. See volume 1. The bottom of the gulf is very low, and +forms two bights, separated by a point that projects for seven or eight +miles. + +In the neighbourhood of the rivers the country is sprinkled with wooded +hills, that extend in a straggling chain towards Wellington Range, of +which they might be considered a part: but between the rivers and +Clarence Strait the country is low and flat, and only protected from +inroads of the sea by a barrier of sandhills, beyond which not a vestige +of the interior could be seen. + +CLARENCE STRAIT separates Bathurst and Melville Islands from the +mainland: it is seventy-five miles long, and from seventeen to +thirty-five wide. The narrowest part is at about its centre, between Cape +Gambier and Cape Eldon, and in this space is a group of four low rocky +islands, covered with mangroves (Vernon's Islands) from which +considerable reefs extend towards either shore. + +The best channel is probably on the northern side, near Cape Gambier, +which is in latitude 11 degrees 56 minutes 20 seconds; and there also +appeared to be a wide and safe channel on the south side; but the +neighbourhood of Vernon's Islands is rocky. The flood-tide sets to the +eastward into the gulf. + +MELVILLE ISLAND is of considerable size, and forms the western side of +Van Diemen's Gulf; its greatest length from Cape Van Diemen to Cape Keith +being seventy-two miles, and its greatest breadth thirty-eight miles; its +circumference is two hundred miles. + +We did not land on any part of it, excepting in the entrance of Apsley +Strait, at Luxmoore Head (latitude 11 degrees 21 minutes, longitude 130 +degrees 22 minutes) from which we were driven by the natives. It appeared +fertile and more elevated than the coast to the eastward, and to possess +several good harbours, particularly Apsley Strait, besides several bays +on its north coast; and from the appearance of the land on its east side, +and the extent and abrupt shape of the hills, it is probable that there +may be a port there also. + +BRENTON BAY is the mouth of a small inlet, which may probably prove to be +a fresh-water stream; and the bottom of LETHBRIDGE BAY appeared likely to +yield one also. The hills and coast are wooded to the brink of the cliffs +and sandy beaches that vary the northern shores of +Melville Island. + +The most unproductive part appeared to be the narrow strip that extends +towards Cape Van Diemen. On either side of the point, near Karslake +Island, is a bay, and at the bottom of each there is an opening in the +land, like those of Brenton and Lethbridge Bays. + +The western trend of CAPE VAN DIEMEN is in latitude 11 degrees 8 minutes +15 seconds, and longitude 130 degrees 20 minutes 30 seconds. The coast to +the south-east of the cape is formed by a range of cliffs, extending +uninterruptedly for seven miles, of a most remarkable white appearance, +whiter even than the usual colour of the pipe-clay cliffs to the +eastward. Cape Van Diemen is a low sandy point, with a shoal spit +projecting from it for four miles, within half a mile of the extremity of +which we had no bottom with ten fathoms: from this a very considerable +shoal (MERMAID'S SHOAL) extends to the westward and south-westward for +seventeen miles; and, curving round to PIPER'S HEAD, forms the northern +limit of the entrance to Apsley Strait: its western edge is rather steep; +we coasted along it, and had overfalls between ten and four fathoms near +its edge. It is not only possible, but very likely, that there are +channels through it, but the most direct channel is round its south side, +across the bar, on which there is (at low water) five fathoms. To sail +into APSLEY STRAIT by this channel, if coming from the westward, steer in +on the parallel of 11 degrees 15 minutes, until the northern part of +Bathurst Island is seen: when the western trend of the island bears +South, you will be abreast of the west extremity of the shoal off Cape +Van Diemen. Steering on, you will see Piper's Head, a cliffy point, +forming the north entrance to the strait, which must be kept upon the +bearing of East by North, until the low, sandy, south point of the +strait's entrance* is in a line with the summit of LUXMOORE HEAD, a +remarkable flat-topped hill on the eastern side of the strait, bearing +South 59 degrees East. Then steer East by South, keeping the lead going, +and hauling to the north if the soundings are less than seven fathoms, +until the strait is opened bearing South-East by South, when you may haul +in for Luxmoore Head, and anchor at will. + +(*Footnote. Point Brace of Captain Bremer.) + +The narrowest part of the strait is where the low, sandy extremity, Point +Brace, bears South 40 degrees East; the channel then is from seventeen to +eighteen fathoms deep, and shoals suddenly on its south, but gradually on +its north side: it is about a mile and a half wide. + +APSLEY STRAIT is forty miles long, and from one to three broad; the +widest part being at the north end: the southern end, for five or six +miles from the outlet, is very rocky; the south entrance is in latitude +11 degrees 45 minutes; the flood sets to the southward, and the ebb, from +Van Diemen's Gulf out of Clarence Strait, runs through the strait to the +north, which must cause many shoals off the south entrance; the depth is +generally from ten to thirteen fathoms, but is very irregular towards the +south end; at low water many parts are dry, which leave the channels very +intricate. We passed over it at high water without knowing our danger, +for the stream of the tide carried us through the deepest part of the +channel. + +BATHURST ISLAND is from thirty to thirty-three miles in extent, having a +circumference of a hundred and twenty miles. GORDON BAY, on its western +side, affords a good shelter in the easterly monsoon; it is ten miles +wide, and six deep, and terminated by PORT HURD, the entrance to which is +fronted by a bar, having twelve or fourteen feet on it at low water. Near +the south-western head of the bay two projecting cliffy points (Twin +Cliffs) terminate a sandy bay, from which wood and, probably, water may +be obtained. + +PORT HURD, at the bottom of Gordon Bay, in latitude 11 degrees 39 minutes +30 seconds, is a mere salt-water inlet, running up in a South-East +direction for eight miles; it then separates into two creeks that wind +under each side of a wooded hill; the entrance is three-quarters of a +mile wide, and formed by two low points. At the back of the port are some +wooded hills; one of them, Mount Hurd, kept in the opening between the +two points of entrance, is the mark for the deepest part of the bar. When +within the entrance the port opens, and forms a basin two miles and a +quarter broad, after which it narrows and runs up at from half to a +quarter of a mile wide, with a channel four and five fathoms deep. + +The country here is thickly wooded, but very low, excepting a few ranges +of hills that may rise to the height of two hundred feet. The south side +of Bathurst Island has no sinuosities. + +Near CAPE FOURCROY the coast is formed by sandhills: but, for the next +fifteen miles, it is low and backed by wooded hills. + +... + + +APPENDIX A. SECTION 4. + +OF THE NATURE OF THE WINDS AND THE DESCRIPTION OF THE COAST BETWEEN +CLARENCE STRAIT AND THE NORTH-WEST CAPE. + +NORTH-WEST COAST. + +The nature of the winds upon the North-west Coast, that is, between Cape +Van Diemen and the North-west Cape, differs very materially from the +regularity of the monsoons in the sea that divides it from Timor and the +islands to the northward; excepting in the narrower part between Cape +Londonderry and the Sahul Bank, where, from the contracted nature of the +sea, more regular winds may be expected. The easterly monsoon commences +about the beginning of April, and in the months of May and June blows +with great strength, and will be found more regular close to the +projecting parts of the coast, but they then rather assume the character +of a sea-breeze, for the nights are generally calm. + +After the month of June the winds to the westward of Cape Londonderry are +very irregular, and generally blow from the southward or south-west; they +are however more constant to the westward of Buccaneer's Archipelago, +where the seabreezes blow principally from the North-West along the land. +At intervals, during the east monsoon, the wind blows strong from +South-East, but only for a short time, perhaps only for a few hours. +Ships may creep along the Coast of New Holland to the eastward during the +easterly monsoon, when they could not make any progress in the mid sea, +without being much delayed by calms. Towards the North-west Cape, neither +the monsoon nor the South East trade are much experienced, the wind being +generally from the South-West or North-West. + +During the strength of the westerly monsoon, that is, in the months of +December and January, the wind is regular between West-North-West and +West-South-West, and, in the neighbourhood of the North-west Cape, +sometimes blows hard; but even in these tropical regions, when the +weather is very bad, the change is predicted by the barometer, which +otherwise is scarcely affected. + +In February, near the coast of New Holland, the monsoon is less constant, +and the wind often blows off the land, so that a ship could make her +westing, when, if more to the northward, it would be impossible for her +to gain any ground. At the latter end of February the westerly winds die +away, and are succeeded by light, baffling, easterly winds, with damp, +unwholesome weather, and attended occasionally by heavy squalls of wind +and rain. + +If a ship is detained late in the easterly monsoon, and wishes to get to +the westward, she will find the wind more regular and strong from the +eastward in the neighbourhood of Timor, where the easterly monsoon lasts +until the first or second week in November: in the months of September +and October, to the southward of the parallel of 12 degrees, the winds +are almost constant from South-West. + +The currents are stronger according to the regularity and strength of the +wind, and generally set at the rate of one or one knot and a half. The +tides in this part of the coast are noticed in the description of the +places where they were observed. High water at full and change takes +place at: + +The anchorage off Vansittart Bay at 9 hours 15 minutes. + +In Montagu Sound at 12 hours 00 minutes. + +In Careening Bay at 12 hours 00 minutes. + +In Prince Regent's River at 12 hours 20 minutes. + +The rise of the tide, to the westward of Cape Van Diemen, and +particularly to the westward of Cape Bougainville, appeared gradually to +increase: the greatest that we experienced was in the vicinity of +Buccaneer's Archipelago; and at the anchorage in Camden Bay the tide rose +thirty-seven feet; occasioned probably by the intersected nature of the +coast. + +The variation in this interval is almost too trifling to be noticed for +the purposes of common navigation. Between Capes Londonderry and Van +Diemen it varies between 1/4 and 1 degree East. Between the former and +Careening Bay it was between 1 and 1 1/2 degrees East; at Careening Bay +the mean of the observations gave 3/4 of a degree West; but to the +westward of that, as far as Cape Villaret, the results of the +observations varied between 1 degree East and 1 degree West. Near the +North-west Cape, and to the eastward of it as far as Depuch Island, it is +about two degrees Westerly. + +On the south-side of Clarence Strait the land is low, like the coast to +the eastward. PATERSON BAY appeared to be the mouth of a river, but it +was not examined. The opening to the eastward of the projecting point +that forms the eastern side of Paterson Bay, seemed to be a good port; +and to have an inlet at its bottom trending to the South-East. + +CAPE GROSE, in latitude 12 degrees 32 minutes 40 seconds, and longitude +131 degrees 26 minutes, is the western head of Paterson Bay: it is +fronted by reefs that extend for a considerable distance into the sea; +their extremity is nearly nine miles north from the cape. + +Hence the coast extends low and sandy to POINT BLAZE, to the northward of +which there is a bay: to the south the shore is wooded, and trends for +eighteen miles to the north entrance of Anson Bay, which is formed by +PERON ISLANDS; these are low and sandy; at the extremity of the northern +island, there is a sandy peak in latitude 13 degrees 6 minutes 30 +seconds, and longitude 131 degrees 1 minute 20 seconds: the south end is +overrun with mangroves, and it appeared very doubtful whether a channel +existed between it and the smaller island, which is entirely surrounded +by mangroves. This entrance to the bay is very intricate, and useless, +since that to the south of the islands is so much better. Anson's Bay +affords good anchorage, and probably has a small rivulet at the bottom. + +CAPE FORD, in latitude 13 degrees 24 minutes 35 seconds, longitude 130 +degrees 52 minutes 20 seconds, has a reef projecting for three miles from +it: hence the coast trends round to the southward for thirty miles to a +bay, which also has a small opening at the bottom; five miles inland +there is a range of hills, on which two, of flat-topped summits, are +conspicuous; and, at a distance, assume the appearance of islands. They +are the Barthelemy Hills. + +A few miles to the westward is PORT KEATS. TREE POINT, in latitude 13 +degrees 59 minutes 20 seconds, longitude 130 degrees 34 minutes, the +eastern head of the port, is surrounded by a reef, which extends from it +for more than three miles. The west side has also a reef, but of much +more considerable size, stretching to the northward of Cape Hay for +fifteen miles; near its extremity there is a patch of dry rocks, +occupying an extent of two miles. The channel within the heads is from +two to four miles wide, and has anchorage in it between six and seven +fathoms, mud. The port gradually contracts as it approaches the narrow +mouth of the inlet to a mile and a half; it then trends to the south for +six miles, where it is divided into two arms, that run up for six or +seven miles more to the foot of a range of wooded hills, one of which is +MOUNT GOODWIN. The western side of the inlet is occupied by a bank of +clay, that dries at low water. At about three miles within the narrow +entrance on the western side, there is an inlet, and above this the +anchorage is good, the bottom being of clay, in which is mixed a small +ironstone pebble: between the inlet and the narrows, the bottom is deep +and rocky. + +Between Cape Hay, in latitude 14 degrees 1 minute 30 seconds, and +longitude 130 degrees 27 minutes 30 seconds, and POINT PEARCE, in +latitude 14 degrees 28 minutes 30 seconds, longitude 130 degrees 17 +minutes 15 seconds, the coast is still low, and was only seen at a +distance. Off the latter point there is a reef which does not extend to a +greater distance than a mile and a half. + +To the south of Point Pearce there is a very extensive opening, which bad +weather and other circumstances did not allow of being examined. It is +nearly thirty miles wide, and the depth across between eight fathoms and +twenty. The south shore is lined by a considerable reef extending for +seven miles from the beach. The land was very indistinctly seen at the +back, but, in one part, there was a space of more than eighteen miles, in +which nothing was visible. The strength of the tide, the bottom being +sandy instead of mud, as in other parts of the neighbourhood, and the +rocky overfalls on either side of the entrance bespeak this opening to be +of considerable size and importance. + +The shore to CAPE DOMETT was very indistinctly seen. It occupies an +extent of forty-five miles, and is fronted by extensive reefs, which +project for twenty-three miles; the north extremity of the shoal water is +twenty-six miles, nearly due west from Cape Pearce. It terminates with a +narrow point, and then trends in to the South-West towards the coast. + +The Medusa Bank fronts the entrance of Cambridge Gulf; it projects from +the coast, near Cape Domett, to the North-West for seventeen miles, and +terminates with a narrow spit, thirteen miles north from Lacrosse Island, +in latitude 14 degrees 30 1/2 minutes. Both these banks are of sand, and +their edges are very steep to. They are covered with large quantities of +mollusca, which are also abundant in the sea in their vicinity. + +CAMBRIDGE GULF extends from Lacrosse Island in a South-South-Westerly +direction for sixty-four miles. The entrance, between Cape Domett and +Cape Dussejour, is twelve miles wide; but Lacrosse Island, under which +there is good anchorage for vessels going in or out of the gulf, divides +the entrance into two channels. The western entrance is about two miles +and a half wide, and is deepest near the island: but, at a mile from the +shore, we had no bottom with fourteen and seventeen fathoms. The reefs +project from Cape Dussejour for nearly three miles. On the eastern side +of Lacrosse Island, within half a mile of the point, we had seven +fathoms, and there was every appearance of the channel being deep in the +neighbourhood of Cape Domett. Shakspeare Hill, the situation of which is +in latitude 14 degrees 47 minutes 55 seconds, and longitude 128 degrees +24 minutes, is a conspicuous object on this promontory: it is high and +rocky, and, at a distance, has the appearance of being insulated, like +Lacrosse Island. + +Having entered the gulf, it trends to the South-South-West for +twenty-three miles to Adolphus Island, where it is divided into two arms, +of which the westernmost is the principal. At ten miles from Lacrosse +Island, the channel is narrowed by shoals to a width of five miles, the +shores being twelve miles apart. The land on the western side of the gulf +is high and rocky; but the opposite shore is very low, and apparently +marshy. The bottom is of sand, as are the banks on either side, and +affords good anchorage: the tide stream runs with great strength in +mid-channel, but is easily avoided by anchoring upon the weather shore +near the edge of the bank. + +The channels on either side of Adolphus Island are called the East and +West Arms. The East Arm is from one to two miles and a half wide, and +four or five fathoms deep. At ten miles it is joined by an arm that +washes the south side of Adolphus Island, and the united streams trend +together in a South-East direction, under the foot of Mount Connexion, +for a considerable distance. This inlet was not examined. The West Arm +extends down the west side of Adolphus Island for seven miles; it is then +divided by a projecting point under View Hill; and, whilst one runs to +the eastward and unites with the East Arm, the other continues to trend +to the southward, and then opens out to an extensive basin eleven miles +in length, and from four to six in breadth; and, at seven miles, +gradually contracts as it winds under the base of the Bastion Hills: +before, however, you arrive at the basin, the stream is divided by +several islands and rocky islets, that narrow the channel in some parts +to the width of half a mile, in which the depth is very great, and the +tide runs with great strength. + +At the entrance of the basin the high rocky character of the west shore +is superseded by low mangrove banks, with here and there a detached hill +rising from a plain of low marshy land, that, at the time of our visit, +was covered with a salt incrustation, occasioned by the evaporation of +the sea, which, apparently, had lately flooded the low lands to a great +extent: some of these plains are seven and eight miles in diameter. The +hills rise abruptly; those we examined are of sandstone formation. The +basin is very shoal, but there is a narrow channel in the centre, with +from five to nine fathoms water. The shore, opposite the Bastion Hills, +is low, and the gulf trends gradually round to the South-West for five +miles, when it is contracted into a narrow communication, called The Gut, +leading to an interior shoal basin, strewed with low marshy islands, +which the tide covers. This basin terminates to the southward in a narrow +stream, winding under the base of Mount Cockburn; and there also appeared +to be several others falling into the basin more to the westward. The +water was salt at the extremity of our exploration. The Gut leading to it +is two miles long, and not so much as a quarter of a mile wide: in some +parts we had nineteen fathoms, but in others it was deeper; it runs +through a chasm in the hills, which rise abruptly, and occasionally +recede and form bights, in which, in the wet season, the rains form some +very considerable mountain torrents. No fresh water was seen in any part +of the gulf; but as it was near the end of the dry season when we were +there, it might probably be found in a more advanced season in every part +of the western side, where the land is high and the gullies numerous: +there is, however, no durable freshwater stream without the Gut. An +alligator was observed swimming about, but very few fish were noticed. + +The coast extends from Cape Dussejour to Cape Londonderry, a distance of +ninety-five miles, without an opening, and with but few sinuosities of +any consequence. The coast is chiefly rocky, with here and there a few +sandy beaches: but the shore generally is open and exposed: there are +many parts, however, where a boat might land; particularly behind BUCKLE +HEAD, and a little farther on at REVELEY ISLAND: at the latter place +there is a gully in the hills, at the back of the bay, which may probably +produce fresh water: this bay is near Captain Baudin's MOUNT CASUARINA, a +flat-topped hill, that is conspicuous from the sea. The mount is only +visible between the bearings of South and West-South-West, and may be +seen at the distance of seven or eight leagues. It is situated at six +miles from the shore, in latitude 14 degrees 23 minutes 15 seconds, and +longitude 127 degrees 36 minutes 50 seconds. + +The coast is here but slightly wooded, and sufficiently elevated to +conceal the interior; no part of which, excepting Mount Casuarina, could +be seen. It is fronted by rocks, but they do not appear to extend more +than two miles from the shore. At CAPE RULHIERES, the coast trends more +westerly. To the westward of this cape are two sandy bays, in which boats +might effect a landing; but they are open and exposed to the northward. +To the eastward of it there are some reefs which project for more than +two miles from the shore; and, at the west head of the westernmost of the +bays, is an island with a reef extending for nearly three miles from it: +behind the island is another bay, that appeared to be fronted by the +above reef. In the offing, and at the distance of six miles from the +shore, is LESUEUR ISLAND; it is about two miles in circumference, and +surrounded by a coral reef, that extends for one mile and a half from its +north-east end. At this part the coast is more verdant in appearance than +to the eastward of Cape Rulhieres, particularly for ten miles to the +South-East of Cape Londonderry; in which space there are several sandy +bays, with the shores wooded to the brink of the beach: at about five +miles from the cape is a small boat harbour, at the back of which a gully +in the hills appeared promising for the search for fresh water, more +particularly on account of the verdant appearance of the trees near it. + +CAPE LONDONDERRY is a low rocky point; it is easily recognised by the +reef that extends from it, and the trend of the land, which takes from it +a westerly direction; there are also two small sandy islets, Stewart's +Islets, at a little more than two miles from it, encompassed by the reef. +The cape is in 13 degrees 44 minutes South, and 126 degrees 53 minutes 50 +seconds East. + +The land then extends to the westward for nearly eleven miles, to CAPE +TALBOT; it is fronted by the reef that commences at Cape Londonderry, and +projects from the shore for nearly five miles, but to the eastward of the +cape a ship may approach it within two miles. + +To the south of Cape Talbot the land trends in and forms a bay twelve +miles deep, and wide, that was not examined. It is fronted by SIR GRAHAM +MOORE'S ISLANDS, one of which is eight miles long, and low, excepting at +the east end, where there is a flat-topped hill; there is also another +remarkable summit on a smaller island, to the north of the principal +island. + +At twenty miles West-South-West from Cape Talbot is the east entrance of +VANSITTART BAY; it is formed between MARY ISLAND and the easternmost of +the ECLIPSE ISLES (Long Island) but this space, which is nearly three +miles wide, is much occupied by rocks, so that it is contracted to the +width of little more than half a mile. + +The channel to this is between two extensive reefs, the innermost of +which commences at eight miles to the westward of Cape Talbot, and +extends along Sir Graham Moore's Islands to Mary Island. + +The outer reef commences at about twelve miles from the cape, and extends +to the westward, embracing JONES' ISLAND (in latitude 13 degrees 44 +minutes, and longitude 126 degrees 23 minutes) and the Eclipse Isles. The +passage is from three and a half to five miles wide, and is deep and free +from danger. The bottom is rocky until within five miles of the Eclipse +Islands, when good anchorage may be obtained in five and six fathoms, +upon a muddy bottom. + +The entrance is between Middle Rock, and a patch of dry rocks to the +eastward of Long Rocks, the distance across being about half a mile. In +entering the bay by this channel, steer so as to pass round Middle Rock, +and upon bringing the peaked summit of Jar Island, at the bottom of the +port, between it and Long Rocks, bearing South 29 1/2 degrees West, steer +directly for Jar Island, until you are abreast of Middle Rock, when you +may haul close round it, with fourteen and sixteen fathoms: when you have +passed the Long Rocks, a course may be directed at pleasure into the bay. +There is also a deep passage to the westward of Middle Rock; but it is +too narrow to be safe. The tide sets through the channels with great +strength; with the flood-tide there is no danger, as the stream will +carry a vessel through the deepest part; with the ebb-tide, however, it +should not be attempted. + +The western entrance to Vansittart Bay is between the land of CAPE +BOUGAINVILLE and the Eclipse Islands: it is three miles and a half wide, +and quite free from danger. The approach to it, between TROUGHTON ISLAND +(latitude 13 degrees 44 minutes 10 seconds, longitude 126 degrees 11 +minutes) and the reefs in the offing, is six miles wide, and probably +quite safe. We did not ascertain the existence of a channel on the east +side of the island, but it appeared to be free from danger, and, if so, +would be the best approach. ECLIPSE HILL, being higher than the land near +it, and conspicuous from its flat tabular shape, is a good mark for the +port; it is in latitude 13 degrees 54 minutes 20 seconds and longitude +126 degrees 18 minutes 40 seconds. + +Vansittart Bay is eighteen miles deep, and from five to ten broad; it +offers excellent anchorage. The eastern shore is rocky, and should not be +approached nearer than a mile; but the western shore is steep to, and may +be passed very close: on this side the port there are many coves and bays +fit for any purposes. The most secure anchorage is in the centre of the +bay, where there is from seven to nine fathoms, mud, and the sea-breeze +has free access: but, if a more sheltered place is required, such may be +found at the south-east corner of the bottom of the bay in six and seven +fathoms, mud. High water at full and change takes place in the eastern +entrance, at a quarter past nine o'clock; the tide rises about six feet. + +JAR ISLAND is surrounded by rocks, but to the eastward of it the channel +is twelve fathoms deep. Its summit is in latitude 14 degrees 7 minutes 10 +seconds, longitude 126 degrees 15 minutes 40 seconds. + +The western side of Vansittart Bay is formed by a peninsula, the +extremity of which is Cape Bougainville; the northern part of this land +is fronted by a reef, that extends round it for three miles from the +shore, but the western side appeared to be of bold approach. The reef +commences at Cape Bougainville, and trends round to Point Gibson, where +it terminates. This part of the coast is fronted by extensive reefs, +which render the approach to it very dangerous: at sixteen miles to the +northward of the cape there is a range, the HOLOTHURIA BANKS, that extend +in an east and west direction for twenty-three miles; their north-east +extent was not ascertained, but the western end, in latitude 13 degrees +32 minutes, and longitude 125 degrees 46 minutes 45 seconds, is narrow, +and not more than five or six miles broad. + +There is another range of reefs to the westward of the cape, that extends +in a north and south direction for upwards of twenty miles; and about +from three to five miles broad. The water breaks on many parts of it. Its +north extremity, in latitude 13 degrees 41 1/2 minutes, is sixteen miles +West 3/4 North from Troughton Island: in this space the sea is quite +clear, and from sixteen to twenty fathoms deep. The narrowest part of the +channel, between the reef and the peninsula, is at Point Gibson, where it +is more than eight miles wide, and in mid-channel about twenty-three +fathoms deep. + +Between Cape Bougainville and Cape Voltaire is the ADMIRALTY GULF. It is +twenty-nine miles wide and twenty-two deep, independent of Port +Warrender. This gulf is thickly strewed with islands and reefs: a group +off Cape Voltaire was seen by the French and named by them the INSTITUTE +ISLANDS, the three principal of which, of flat-topped shape, are called +Descartes, Fenelon, and Corneille; besides these the Montesquieu Group, +and Pascal and Condillac Islands, were distinguished. On the eastern side +of the gulf, near the shore, are OSBORN'S ISLANDS, which are high and +rocky: the southernmost is remarkable for its steep, precipitous form, +and for its resemblance to Mount Cockburn in Cambridge Gulf. There is +also a conspicuous high bluff on the principal island, which appears to +have been seen by the French. + +In the offing is CASSINI ISLAND; it is rather low and level, and +surrounded by cliffs and rocky shores: on the eastern side are four sandy +beaches, which are very much frequented by turtle: a reef projects off +its north end for a mile and a half. The anchorage is good near the +island, but the water is very deep. The situation of its centre is in +latitude 13 degrees 55 minutes 5 seconds, and longitude 125 degrees 42 +minutes. + +PORT WARRENDER is an excellent port, and affords good anchorage in the +bay round Crystal Head, in which a vessel is quite land-locked; but +equally secure anchorage may be had for five miles higher up the port, in +from four to seven fathoms, mud. It extends for six miles farther, but +the depth in some parts is not more than two fathoms. + +At eleven miles from the entrance, the port is separated into two inlets, +which wind under the base of a dividing range of high, steep, and wooded +hills; these run up for five miles higher, when they become mere mangrove +creeks. There is probably another inlet on the east side of Port +Warrender which we did not examine, since it appeared to be less +considerable in size, and important in appearance, than the arm which we +had examined. CRYSTAL HEAD is in latitude 14 degrees 28 minutes, and +longitude 125 degrees 55 minutes 30 seconds. + +WALMESLY BAY appeared to be a good port also, but it is open to the +eastward. We did not enter it. + +CAPE VOLTAIRE is the extremity of a promontory, extending for more than +twenty miles into the sea, and separating the Admiralty Gulf from Montagu +Sound. There is a flat-topped hill near its extremity, in latitude 14 +degrees 14 minutes 30 seconds, and longitude 125 degrees 40 minutes 12 +seconds; and, at three miles more to the southward, a peaked hill; its +shores on either side are rocky, and indented by bays. At one part the +width across to Walmesly Bay cannot be more than a mile and a half. + +The MONTALIVET ISLES, about six leagues from the main, consist of three +rocky islands; they are visible for six or seven leagues from the deck: +the north-easternmost is in latitude 14 degrees 13 minutes 40 seconds, +longitude 125 degrees 19 minutes 30 seconds. + +MONTAGU SOUND extends from Cape Voltaire to the north end of Bigge's +Island, a distance of thirty-one miles, and is from eleven to twenty +miles deep. It is fronted by a range of islands; the outer range, which +is eight miles within the Montalivet Isles, was called PRUDHOE ISLANDS; +besides which there were several scattered about the sound, and some of +larger size near the main: of the latter are KATER'S and WOLLASTON'S. +They are of a very rocky character, and furnished with but a poor and +shallow soil, although the surface is thickly covered with small trees, +growing most luxuriantly. WATER ISLAND, to the north-east, in latitude 14 +degrees 21 minutes, and longitude 125 degrees 32 minutes 25 seconds, was +visited by us, as was also CAPSTAN ISLAND, in the south-west corner of +the sound. The latter island is in latitude 14 degrees 35 minutes 20 +seconds, and longitude 125 degrees 16 minutes 20 seconds. They are both +rocky, and destitute of any soil but what is formed by the decomposition +of the vegetables that grow upon the island. The channels between them +appeared to be clear and free from hidden danger. The depth among the +islands is from ten to fifteen fathoms on a muddy bottom; but the +anchorage is better between Kater Island and the promontory that +separates it from Walmesly Bay, than any other part. It is a very fine +port, particularly near the bottom, in SWIFT'S BAY, where the depth is +from four to five fathoms at low water, It is high water at full and +change in Swift's Bay at twelve o'clock, which is two hours and a quarter +later than in Vansittart Bay: the tide rose eighteen feet, whereas in +Port Warrender its rise was only six. The islands off the north-east end +of Bigge's Island are more numerous than in other parts of the sound: +they were only seen at a distance, and too numerous to give correct +positions to. BIGGE'S ISLAND is fourteen miles long, and from six to +seven broad; it is of moderate height, and rocky character: its south end +appeared to be thickly wooded. A flat-topped hill near the shore of +Scott's Strait is a remarkable object, and may be seen six or seven +leagues off. It is in latitude 14 degrees 39 minutes 20 seconds, and +longitude 125 degrees 10 minutes 20 seconds. + +SCOTT'S STRAIT is a channel separating Bigge's Island from the main: it +is thirteen miles long, and from three to one and a quarter broad. It is +of irregular depth, and has some rocks in mid-channel, which are dry: the +deepest channel is near the eastern shore, the depth being from ten to +fourteen fathoms. The strait does not terminate until you are to the +westward of Cape Pond, for there are several islets off the south end of +Bigge's Island, and a considerable reef, through which, although there +may be deep channels, yet they must be narrow. Off the north-west end of +Bigge's Island are several rocky islets; the outer ones were seen by me +in the Bathurst (see above): they are the MARET ISLES of Commodore +Baudin; they consist of four or five principal islands, of about two +miles in length, besides as many more of very small size off the south +extremity of the group. The northern point of the northernmost island is +in latitude 15 degrees 7 minutes 15 seconds, and longitude 124 degrees 56 +minutes 40 seconds. The group is fronted on the north-west side by a +considerable reef, extending North by East 1/2 East for seven miles; the +outer edge being three miles and a half to the westward of the group. + +YORK SOUND is fourteen miles wide and ten deep: it is contained between +Cape Pond and the northern extreme of the Coronation Islands. It is +spacious, but the bottom, in the middle, is rocky: there is, however, +very good anchorage near the Coronation Islands; and there is also, +possibly, as good on the eastern shore to the south of CAPE POND, which +has a rocky island immediately off it, the situation of which is in +latitude 14 degrees 43 minutes 20 seconds, and longitude 125 degrees 9 +minutes 25 seconds. + +At the bottom of York Sound is PRINCE FREDERIC'S HARBOUR, a fine spacious +port, fourteen miles long, and from five to seven broad: it is terminated +by two rivers, namely Hunter's and Roe's. It has several rocky islands on +either shore; and, at the bottom, they are numerous. The tide here rises +at the springs twenty-nine feet. The anchorage is not so good in the +entrance of the port, but a good bottom may be found as soon as Hunter's +River begins to open, and bears East 1/2 North, and when you are within a +small island that is in the centre of the port; but an anchorage may very +probably be obtained on the northern shore, or, indeed, any where out of +the strength of the tides. + +HUNTER'S RIVER runs up for about fourteen miles. It is about one mile and +a half wide at the entrance, and preserves that width for more than four +miles, when it suddenly contracts and becomes shoal, and very tortuous in +its course, and winds through a narrow chasm in the rocks, which rise +precipitously in some parts for at least two or three hundred feet. A +vessel may anchor in seven fathoms near the end of the first reach; its +course is to the East-North-East. There is a remarkable rock at the +entrance, in latitude 15 degrees 1 minute 30 seconds, and longitude 125 +degrees 24 minutes. ROE'S RIVER first trends for seventeen miles to the +East by South, and then, taking a sudden turn to the south, runs up for +thirteen miles more; after which it trends to the South-East, and was +supposed to run up for at least ten miles farther. Its entrance for seven +miles forms a very good harbour, being from two to six fathoms deep; but, +in anchoring here, it must be recollected that the tide falls twenty-nine +feet. This river, like Hunter's River, is bounded on either bank by +precipitous hills, which, in many parts, are inaccessible. + +Five miles to the westward of Cape Torrens is Point Hardy: off the latter +is an islet; and three miles, North by East 1/2 East from it, is a reef, +on which the sea breaks. This point is the east head of PORT NELSON, +which extends to the southward from it for eight miles: its western side +is formed by the Coronation Islands: its width is three miles, with good +anchorage all over it. At the bottom is CAREENING BAY, where the Mermaid +was repaired. The latitude of the beach in 15 degrees 6 minutes 18 +seconds, and longitude 125 degrees 0 minutes 46 seconds.* Port Nelson +communicates with the sea to the westward of the Coronation Islands, +which may be considered a strait. At the south-west end of the +southernmost island, where the strait is narrowest, and not more than one +mile and a quarter wide, there is a patch of rocks in the centre, which +always shows: the channel on the north side of these rocks is the best: +the water is very deep, and the tide sets right through. + +(*Footnote. The latitude of the observatory was taken every day during +our stay, using the sea-horizon, but the effect of refraction was so +great that the daily observations varied as much as 3 minutes 43 seconds. + +The mean of 15 meridional altitudes with the sextant made the latitude 15 +degrees 6 minutes 22.5 seconds, +and of fourteen observations with the circle 15 degrees 6 minutes 13.8 +seconds. +Mean for the latitude of the observatory 15 degrees 6 minutes 18 seconds +South. + +The longitude was deduced by the mean of the observations of our two +visits; namely, in October, 1820, and August, 1821: the latter were taken +at Sight Point, in Prince Regent's River, the difference of the meridians +of the two places, by chronometers and survey, being 8 minutes 52.8 +seconds. + +1820. September 28 and 29. By twenty sets of lunar distances with the +sun, containing one hundred sights with the sextant, the sun being to the +east of the moon, the longitude is 125 degrees 11 minutes 24.3 seconds. + +1821. August 2nd and 3rd. By seventeen sets of lunar distances with the +sun, containing eighty-five sights with the sextant, the sun being to the +west of the moon, the longitude of Sight Point, in Prince Regent's River, +was found to be 124 degrees 41 minutes 15.3 seconds, or of Careening Bay +124 degrees 50 minutes 8.1 seconds. + +The mean is the longitude of the observatory 125 degrees 0 minutes 46 +seconds East.) + +The CORONATION ISLANDS separate York Sound from Brunswick Bay, and are +situated in front of Port Nelson. The group consists of seventeen or +eighteen islands, besides numerous rocky islets. On the largest island +are two remarkable peaks; the easternmost is in 14 degrees 59 minutes, +and longitude 124 degrees 56 minutes 5 seconds. The island is eight miles +long, and from four to two wide; the others are from three to one mile in +length; they are covered with vegetation, and the larger islands are well +clothed with trees. The great rise of the tide would render this part of +the coast of importance, was it not for the wretched state of the +country, and the unproductiveness of its soil, which are great drawbacks +upon the advantage of the tide's unusual rise. It is high water at full +and change in Port Nelson at twelve o'clock, as it is also in Montagu +Sound. + +Beyond the Coronation Islands there is a string of small, rocky islands +extending for sixteen miles: the westernmost is Freycinet's Group; the +principal island of which Captain De Freycinet has described as +resembling an inverted bowl; and, from this description, we had no +difficulty in finding it out; it is in latitude 15 degrees 0 minutes 30 +seconds, and longitude 124 degrees 32 minutes 40 seconds. Among the other +islands we distinguished the islets Colbert, Keraudren, and Buffon. On +the last there is a small, grassy, peaked hillock, in latitude 14 degrees +55 minutes 25 seconds, and longitude 124 degrees 43 minutes 20 seconds. + +We passed out to sea between Freycinet's Group and Keraudren; and within +one mile and a half of the latter had eighteen fathoms: it appeared, from +the colour of the water, to have a reef projecting to the westward. + +BRUNSWICK BAY is at the back of these islands, and extends from CAPE +BREWSTER, in latitude 15 degrees 6 minutes 10 seconds, and longitude 124 +degrees 55 minutes 5 seconds, which terminates Port Nelson, to Point +Adieu. It is an extensive bay or sound, and is about twenty miles in +extent, with good anchorage all over it. The coast is here very much +indented by rivers and bays; among which may be particularized Prince +Regent's River, Hanover Bay, and Port George the Fourth. + +PRINCE REGENT'S RIVER is, without exception, the most remarkable feature +of the North-West Coast. In general the inlets of this coast form +extensive ports at their entrance; and, when they begin to assume the +character of a river, their course becomes tortuous, and very irregular; +of which there cannot be a better instance than the neighbouring river, +Roe's River. Prince Regent's River trends into the interior in a +South-East by East direction for fifty-four miles. With scarcely a point +to intercept the view, after being thirteen miles within it. The entrance +is formed by Cape Wellington on the east, and High Bluff on the west, a +width of eight miles, but is so much contracted by islands, that, in +hauling round Cape Wellington, the width is suddenly reduced to little +more than a mile: at the branching off of Rothsay Water, it is little +more than half a mile, and also the same width at the entrance of St. +George's Basin. In this space, however, it is in some parts a little +wider, but in no part between projecting points is it more than one mile +and a quarter. For the first nine miles the stream is narrowed by +islands; beyond this, its boundaries are formed by the natural banks of +the river. On the eastern side, within Cape Wellington, is a deep bay, +but of shoal and rocky appearance. At six miles farther on are two +inlets, ROTHSAY and MUNSTER WATERS, near which the tide forms rapid +eddies and whirlpools, that render its approach dangerous. In mid-channel +is a group of isles; and, off the easternmost, a reef projects to the +eastward for more than half a mile, round which a vessel must pass; here +the channel is not more than half a mile wide. Munster Water, on the +western side, communicates with Hanover Bay by a narrow strait, with very +good anchorage in it in four and five fathoms mud; it is, however, an +inconvenient place to go to, if a vessel is bound any farther up the +river. Rothsay Water is a very considerable arm; and was conjectured to +communicate with Prince Frederic's Harbour, and, if so, would insulate +the land between Capes Torrens and Wellington. We did not enter Rothsay +Water; and the tides and whirlpools were too rapid and dangerous to trust +our small boats without running a very great risk. At the entrance of +this arm, on the south shore, there appeared to be a shoal-bank. Halfway +Bay offers very good anchorage out of the strength of the tides, with +abundance of room to get underweigh from. The northernmost point of the +bay, SIGHT POINT, has a small islet off it (LAMMAS ISLET) where the +observations were taken to fix the longitude of Careening Bay. (See +above.) The two bays on the opposite, or north-east shore, are shoal, and +not fit for any vessel drawing more than six or seven feet; and the +shores are so lined with mangroves, as in most parts to defy all attempts +at landing. After passing them, the shores approach each other within +three-quarters of a mile, but the south-west shore is fronted by a rocky +shoal, which narrows it to less than half a mile; here the tide runs very +strong, and forms whirlpools. On passing the point, the river opens into +a large, spacious reach, which was called ST. GEORGE'S BASIN; and two +conspicuous islands in it were called ST. ANDREW and ST. PATRICK'S +ISLANDS. At the north-east corner are two remarkable hills, MOUNTS +TRAFALGAR and WATERLOO: the situation of the summit of the former is in +latitude 15 degrees 16 minutes 35 seconds, and longitude 125 degrees 4 +minutes. The basin is from eight to nine miles in diameter, but affords +no safe anchorage until a vessel is above St. Patrick's Island. The +northern side of the basin is shoaler, and has two small inlets, which +trend in on either side of the mounts, and run in for upwards of five +miles, but they are salt. At the south side of the basin there are two or +three inlets of considerable size, that trend in towards a low country. +At ten miles South-East by East from the narrow entrance to the basin the +river again resumes its narrow channel, and runs up so perfectly straight +for fourteen miles in a South-East by East course, that the hills, which +rise precipitously on either bank, were lost in distance, and the river +assumed the most exact appearance of being a strait; it was from one to +one mile and a quarter wide, and generally of from four to eight fathoms +deep on a bottom of yellow sand: the river then took a slight bend, and +continued to run up for twelve or thirteen miles further, with a few +slight curves, and gradually to decrease in width until terminated by a +bar of rocks; which, when the tide rose high enough to fall over, was +very dangerous to pass: here a considerable gully joins the main stream, +and, being fresh water, was supposed to have the same source as Roe's +River. The river trended up for about three or four miles farther, when +it is entirely stopped by a rapid formed of stones, beyond which we did +not persevere in tracing it; the tide did not reach above this, and the +stream was perceived to continue and form a very beautiful fresh-water +river, about two or three hundred yards wide. As our means did not allow +of our persevering any further, we gave up our examination. At seventeen +miles above St. George's Basin, on the south shore, we found a cascade of +fresh water falling in a considerable quantity from the height of one +hundred and forty feet; and this, in the rainy season, must be a very +large fall, for its breadth is at least fifty yards. At the time of our +visit it was near the end of the dry season: and even then there was a +very considerable quantity falling. Several small inlets trended in on +either side of the river above the basin, particularly one upon the north +side, which, from the height of the hills under which it trended, would +probably produce a freshwater stream. In 1821 the Bathurst watered from +the cascade, but the fatigue was too great, and the heat too powerful, +for the boats' crew had to pull nearly forty miles every trip. High water +took place in St. George's Basin at twenty minutes after twelve o'clock: +the tide rose twenty-four feet. + +HANOVER BAY is a very convenient port, about five miles deep, but exposed +from the North-North-West; the anchorage is, however, so good, that no +danger need be apprehended. At the bottom of the bay there is a deep +chasm in the land, yielding a fresh-water stream; beyond this the bay +terminates in a shoal basin. In the offing are several rocky islets, +particularly one, a high rock, which is very remarkable. A little to the +north-east of the river is a sandy beach, the situation of which is in +latitude 15 degrees 18 minutes 21 seconds, and longitude 124 degrees 46 +minutes 50 seconds. + +HIGH BLUFF, the extremity of the promontory separating Hanover Bay from +Port George the Fourth, speaks for itself. It is in latitude 15 degrees +14 minutes 40 seconds, and longitude 124 degrees 41 minutes 35 seconds. +Between High Bluff and Point Adieu, in latitude 15 degrees 14 minutes 10 +seconds, and longitude 124 degrees 34 minutes 45 seconds, is PORT GEORGE +THE FOURTH, having midway in its entrance a high island nearly two miles +long; and to the southward, in the centre of the port, a high rocky +islet, the LUMP, the summit of which is situated in latitude 15 degrees +18 minutes 30 seconds, and longitude 124 degrees 37 minutes 50 seconds. +The western side of the port is an extensive island, AUGUSTUS ISLAND, +eleven miles long; it is high and rocky, and has several bays on its +eastern side. The port affords very good anchorage, particularly between +Entrance Island and the Lump, in nine fathoms, mud; but there is also +very good anchorage with the Lump bearing west, in ten fathoms, mud. Port +George the Fourth terminates in a strait, ROGER'S STRAIT, communicating +with Camden Bay. The best entrance to the port is on the eastern side of +Entrance Island; for the opposite, although practicable and sufficiently +deep for the largest ships, is narrow, and must be buoyed before it can +be used. + +POINT ADIEU is the last land seen by us in 1820: it is the north-east end +of Augustus Island, and is a rocky, bluff point. In the offing, at the +distance of three miles, there is a considerable range of reefs, that +extend from the peaked island of Jackson's Isles; and more to the +north-west is another group of rocky islands. + +To the westward of Augustus Island is a range of islands extending for +five leagues; on their north side they are fronted by considerable coral +reefs, which at low water are dry; besides which there are several small +islets that contract the channels, and render the navigation intricate +and difficult. Between Augustus and Byam Martin's Islands there is an +open strait, of one mile and a half wide; but, its communication with the +sea to the north, appears to be little more than half a mile. BYAM +MARTIN'S ISLAND is separated from a range of small islets, extending +North-North-East by a strait; and these last are divided from the +Champagny Isles by another strait, from twenty-eight to thirty fathoms +deep, through which the tide runs with great force. Off the north end of +Byam Martin's Island are several smaller islets and coral reefs; the +latter extend from it for more than six miles: the north-westernmost of +these islets is the land seen in 1801 by Captain Heywood, and was called +by him Vulcan Point: RED ISLAND, which he also saw, is eight miles to the +westward; it is in latitude 15 degrees 13 minutes 15 seconds, and +longitude 124 degrees 15 minutes 45 seconds: between it and Champagny +Isles the ebbing tide uncovered several extensive reefs. Ten miles North +26 degrees East from Red Island, and South 71 degrees West from +Freycinet's Island, is a dry sandbank surrounded by a reef. + +DEGERANDO ISLAND, so called by the French, is the southernmost of the +CHAMPAGNY ISLES: considerable reefs extend off its south end, which are +dry at low water; its centre is in latitude 15 degrees 20 minutes 45 +seconds, and longitude 124 degrees 13 minutes 15 seconds. + +CAMDEN BAY is formed between Byam Martin's Island and Pratt's Islands, +and extends to the eastward to Roger's Strait; it is twelve miles deep +and eight wide. Here the tide rose and fell thirty-seven feet and a half, +the moon's age being nineteen days. High water took place thirteen +minutes after the moon's transit. + +Between Camden Bay and Point Swan, a distance of ninety miles, the +mainland falls back, and forms a very considerable opening fronted by a +multitude of islands, islets, and reefs, into which, from our loss of +anchors; we were not able to penetrate. From Camden Bay the islands, for +the coast seemed too irregular to be the mainland, extend in a range in a +south direction for more than fifty-five miles, to where there appeared +to be a deep opening, or strait, from three to five miles wide. An +irregular line of coast then appeared to extend for seven leagues to the +North-West, and afterwards to the westward for five or six leagues. To +the westward of this, the land appeared to be less continuous, and to be +formed by a mass of islands separated by deep and narrow straits, through +some of which the tide was observed to rush with considerable strength, +foaming and curling in its stream, as if it were rushing through a bed of +rocks: this was particularly observed among the islands to the south of +Macleay's Islands. After extending for thirty miles farther to the +South-West, the land terminates evidently in islands, which then trend to +the South-East; and to the westward they are separated from Cygnet Bay, +and the land to the southward of it by a strait five or six leagues wide. +The narrowest part of this strait is at Point Cunningham, where it is +twelve miles wide; two-thirds over to the islands are two rocky islets, +which bear due south from Sunday Strait. + +MONTGOMERY ISLANDS, a group of seven islets on the eastern side of this +extensive range of islands, which are named BUCCANEER'S ARCHIPELAGO, are +low and of small extent, particularly the six easternmost, none of which +are a mile long: the westernmost, which has an extensive reef stretching +to the North-West, is more than three miles in diameter, and appears to +be of different formation to the other, being low and flat, whilst the +rest are scarcely better than a heap of stones, slightly clothed with +vegetation. Between the easternmost islet and the land, there is a strait +of a league in width. The tide prevented our trying its depth: a league +and a half to the north-west, at high-water, we had irregular soundings +between ten and sixteen fathoms, but six fathoms must be deducted from it +to reduce it to the depth at low water. + +Three leagues to the north-west of Montgomery's westernmost island are +COCKELL'S ISLES, two in number, low and flat, but of small size. A reef +extends for more than five miles to the westward, and it was not thought +improbable that it might be connected with the reefs that extend to the +westward of Montgomery Islands. The centre of the largest island is in 15 +degrees 48 minutes South, and 124 degrees 4 minutes East. To the +North-East of Cockell's Islands the flood-tide sets to the south; but to +the westward with great strength to the South-East, and, at an anchorage +ten miles to the eastward of Macleay Isles, the tide rose and fell +thirty-six feet, the moon being twenty-one days old. Cockell's Islands +are twenty miles from the land to the south; and in this interval, but +within four leagues from the shore, are several small rocky islets, on +one of which there is a remarkable lump; nearer the shore are two +islands, which have a more fertile and verdant appearance than any other +part near them: these form the western extremity of COLLIER'S BAY. + +MACLEAY ISLES lie in a North by West direction, and are eight miles in +extent; the principal and highest island is near the south end of the +group; those to the northward are small and straggling. The centre of the +highest is in latitude 15 degrees 57 minutes, and longitude 123 degrees +42 minutes. + +CAFFARELLI ISLAND was seen by the French. Its summit is in latitude 16 +degrees 2 minutes 25 seconds, and longitude 123 degrees 18 minutes 35 +seconds. It is the north-westernmost of a range of islands, extending in +the direction of North 60 degrees West; among which Cleft Island, so +named from a remarkable cleft or chasm near its north end, and DAMPIER'S +MONUMENT, are conspicuous: the latter is a high lump. This range is +separated from one of a similar nature, and extending in a like direction +to the eastward, by a strait from three to four miles wide, and from +fifteen to twenty deep. + +Fourteen miles North 68 degrees West from the summit of Caffarelli Island +is BRUE REEF, a circular patch of rocks of about a mile in diameter; +three miles to the north-east of which we had irregular soundings, +between thirty-eight and forty-five fathoms on a rocky bottom. The reef +is in 15 degrees 57 minutes South, and 123 degrees 4 minutes 45 seconds +East. + +Six miles south of Caffarelli Island, is a rocky island, surrounded by a +reef; and eight miles farther are several small rocky islands, forming +the north extremity of a range, which, extending to the South by East for +ten miles, form the eastern side of Sunday Strait, which is the best, and +in fact the only safe communication with the deep opening between Point +Cunningham and the islands to the eastward. Between this strait and Point +Swan, a distance of eleven miles, the space is occupied by a multitude of +islands and islets, separated from each other by narrow and, probably, by +deep channels, through which the tide rushes with frightful rapidity. +Sunday Strait is more than four miles wide, and appears to be free from +danger. The tide sets through it at the rate of four or five miles an +hour, and forms strong ripplings, which would be, perhaps, dangerous for +a boat to encounter. The vessel was whirled round several times in +passing through it; but a boat, by being able to pull, might in a great +measure avoid passing through them. + +CYGNET BAY is formed between the islands and Point Cunningham; it is +fronted by a bank, over which the least water that we found was two +fathoms; within this bank there is good anchorage, and near the inlets at +the bottom of the bay, there is a muddy bottom, with eight and nine +fathoms mud. + +POINT CUNNINGHAM projects slightly to the eastward; its easternmost +extremity is in latitude 16 degrees 39 minutes 20 seconds and longitude +123 degrees 10 minutes; from the northward it has the appearance of being +an island, as the land to the westward is rather lower: two miles and a +half south of it is Carlisle Head, the north extremity of GOODENOUGH BAY. + +The shore thence extends in a South-South-East direction for seventeen +miles, in which space there is a shoal bay, beyond which we did not +penetrate. Off the point is an islet, in latitude about 16 degrees 58 +minutes, and to the south of it the land was seen trending to the South +by East for four or five miles, when it was lost in distance. From this +anchorage no land was distinctly seen to the eastward; between the +bearings of East-North-East and South-South-East, a slight glimmering of +land was raised above the horizon, by the effect of refraction; but this, +as in a case that occurred before in a neighbouring part off Point +Gantheaume, might be at least fifty miles off. + +From all that is at present known of this remarkable opening, there is +enough to excite the greatest interest; since, from the extent of the +opening, the rapidity of the stream, and the great rise and fall of the +tides, there must be a very extensive gulf or opening, totally different +from everything that has been before seen. + +There is also good reason to suspect that the land between Cape Leveque +and Point Gantheaume is an island; and if so, the mouth of this opening +is eight miles wide; besides, who is to say that the land even of Cape +Villaret may not also be an island? The French expedition only saw small +portions of the coast to the southward; but it does not appear probable +that the opening extends to the southward of Cape Villaret. (See above.) + +Thirty-three miles in a North 14 degrees West direction from the summit +of Caffarelli Island is ADELE ISLAND. It is low, and merely covered with +a few shrubs, and is about three miles from east to west, and from one to +one and a half broad; its west end is in 15 degrees 30 minutes South, and +123 degrees 9 minutes 15 seconds East. At about a league North-West from +its western end are two bare sandy islets, which were uncovered as we +passed, but which as there was not the slightest appearance of vegetation +upon it, may be covered at high water. On the western side of Adele +Island, is an extensive patch of light-coloured water, in some parts of +which the sea broke upon the rocks, which were only just below the +surface. The light-coloured water extends for fourteen miles North West +by West 1/2 West from Adele Island, but there is reason to think that the +water is deep over the greater part of it; for we crossed over its tail, +and sounded in forty-five fathoms without finding bottom, whilst in the +darker-coloured water on either side of it, we had forty-two and +forty-four fathoms. + +POINT SWAN is the north-easternmost point of the land of Cape Leveque; it +has an island close off its extremity, round which the tide rushes with +great force, and forms a line of ripplings for ten miles to the +West-North-West, through which, even in the Bathurst, we found it +dangerous to pass. Five miles to the north-eastward of the point are two +small rocky islets, two miles apart from each other. + +CAPE LEVEQUE is low and rocky, with a small islet close to its extremity: +its extreme is in latitude 16 degrees 21 minutes 50 seconds, and +longitude 122 degrees 56 minutes 35 seconds. Between the cape and Point +Swan, there is a sandy bay, fronted by a bed of rocks. It was in this bay +that the Buccaneers anchored, which Dampier has so well described. + +The coast between CAPES LEVEQUE and BORDA extending South 40 degrees West +nineteen miles, is low and rocky, and the country sandy and unproductive. +Between Cape Borda and Point Emeriau is a bay ten miles deep, backed by +very low sandy land; and five miles further is another bay, that appeared +to be very shoal: thence the coast extends to the South-West for +twenty-three miles to CAPE BASKERVILLE; it is low and sandy, like that to +the northward, but the interior is higher, and with some appearance of +vegetation. + +Thirteen miles from the shore are the LACEPEDE ISLANDS; they are three in +number, and surrounded by a reef nine miles long by five wide. They lie +in a North-West direction, and are two miles apart: the north-westernmost +is in latitude 16 degrees 49 minutes 40 seconds, and longitude 122 +degrees 7 minutes 20 seconds: they are low and slightly clothed with +bushes, and seem to be little more than the dry parts of the reef, on +which a soil has been accumulated, and in time produced vegetation. These +islands appear to be the haunt of prodigious numbers of boobies. The +variation is 0 degrees 12 minutes West. + +In latitude 16 degrees 46 minutes, and longitude 121 degrees 50 minutes +30 seconds, the French have placed a reef, BANC DES BALEINES; which we +did not approach near enough to see. + +Between Capes Baskerville and Berthollet, is CARNOT BAY; it is six miles +deep, and backed by low land. The bottom of the bay was not distinctly +seen, but from the appearance of the land behind the beach, it is not +improbable that there may be a rivulet falling into it. + +At POINT COULOMB, in latitude 17 degrees 21 minutes, where there is a +range of dark red cliffs, the coast commences to present a more verdant +and pleasing appearance than to the north: the interior rises to an +unusual height, and forms a round-backed hill, covered with trees: it +reminded us of the appearance of the country of the north coast, and is +so different from the rugged and barren character of the Islands of +Buccaneer's Archipelago as to afford an additional ground for our +conjecture of the insularity of this land. The red cliffs extend for four +miles to the southward of Point Coulomb, and are then superseded by a low +coast, composed alternately of rocky shores and sandy beaches. + +CAPE BOILEAU is seventeen miles to the south of Point Coulomb; here the +shore trends in and forms a bay fifteen miles wide and six deep: the +south head is the land of Point Gantheaume, which is composed of +sandhills very bare of vegetation, as was also the character of the +interior. From Point Gantheaume, in latitude 17 degrees 53 minutes, the +coast trends to the South-East for about fifteen miles, where it was lost +to view in distance: the extreme was a low sandy point, and appeared to +be the south extremity of the land. The space to the south of this, which +appeared to be a strait, insulating the land to the north as far as Cape +Leveque, is nine miles wide. The south shore trends to the westward to +Cape Villaret, on which there is a remarkable hillock, in latitude 18 +degrees 19 minutes 5 seconds, and longitude 122 degrees 3 minutes 45 +seconds. + +The space between the Cape and Point Gantheaume was called ROEBUCK BAY. +It is here that Captain Dampier landed, in the year 1688. + +Three miles to the south of the hillock on Cape Villaret, are two lumps, +which at a distance appeared like rocks. Cape Latouche-Treville has a +small hummock near its extremity, in latitude 18 degrees 29 minutes, and +longitude 121 degrees 50 minutes 50 seconds; to the eastward of it, there +is a shallow bay open to the northward. + +The depth of water in the offing of Roebuck Bay, is between eight and +twelve fathoms; the bottom is sandy, and there are in some parts +sandbanks, on which the depth decreased three fathoms at one heave, but +the least water was eight fathoms. The flood-tide sets to the eastward, +towards the opening, and at an anchorage near Cape Latouche-Treville, the +ebb ran to the North-East: but the tides were at the neaps, and did not +rise more than sixteen feet. Captain Dampier, at the springs, found it +flow thirty feet, which tends unquestionably to prove the opening behind +Roebuck Bay to be considerable, even if it does not communicate with that +behind the Buccaneer's Archipelago. + +The interval between Cape Latouche-Treville and Depuch Island, was not +seen by us. The following brief description of it is taken from M. De +Freycinet's account of Commodore Baudin's voyage. + +LAGRANGE BAY, to the east of Cape Bossut, is a bight, the bottom of which +was not seen. CAPE BOSSUT is low and sandy, as well as the neighbouring +land; and, with the exception of a small grove of trees a little to the +north of Cape Duhamel, the country is sterile everywhere. + +The CASUARINA REEF is a bank of sand and rocks, parts of which are dry, +on which the sea occasionally breaks. The channel between it and the +shore is narrow and shoal, the depth being two and a half fathoms. The +dry part of the reef extends from east to west for about two miles. + +Between CAPES DUHAMEL and MISSIESSY, the coast is sandy and sterile, with +rocky projections: GEOFFROY and DESAULT BAYS are of the same character. + +With the exception of two intervals, one of which is to the west of Cape +Missiessy, and the other to the east of the Bancs des Planaires, the +French saw the coast between Capes Missiessy and Keraudren, but at a +great distance. It appeared low and sterile. + +The BANCS DES PLANAIRES appeared to have a considerable longitudinal +extent; it was not ascertained whether they joined the mainland: some +parts seemed to be dry at low water. + +There is a bank with only fourteen feet water over it, situated nearly +North-East from Cape Keraudren in 19 degrees 41 minutes latitude. + +North, a little westerly, from CAPE LARREY, between which and Cape +Keraudren there is a bay with an island (POISSONNIER) in the entrance, is +BEDOUT ISLAND. It is in latitude 19 degrees 29 minutes, longitude 116 +degrees 32 minutes, East of Paris, or 118 degrees 52 minutes East of +Greenwich. It is low and sandy. + +The BANC DES AMPHINOMES is very extensive, and appeared to be connected +with the main; it is composed of coral, rocks, and sand. + +The coast to the South-West of Cape Larrey is, as well as the Cape +itself, of a remarkable red colour. The country appeared to be sterile. + +TURTLE ISLANDS, two in number, lie West-North-West from Cape Larrey: the +south-westernmost is merely a flat sandy islet (PLATEAU DE SABLE) the +other is surrounded by a reef of coral, upon which the sea breaks. The +Casuarina (M. De Freycinet's vessel) had nine fathoms within half a mile +of it; the reef appeared to be steep, and the island to afford a landing +in fine weather. + +The land is equally low and sandy as far as CAPE THOUIN and CAPE +COSSIGNY. + +The GEOGRAPHE REEFS extend for more than twelve miles, and perhaps are +joined to the land. Their southern parts dry at low water. The Geographe +sailed through them, so that it is probable they are detached in numerous +reefs. + +At FORESTIER ISLANDS we saw the coast again. The main is here very low, +but from the shoalness of the water we were not able to penetrate behind +Depuch Island. It is very uncertain whether the coastline that is laid +down upon the chart is correct: it was scarcely visible from the deck, +and was so low that it might have merely been the dry parts of extensive +reefs. The high land retires for fifteen or twenty miles, and forms an +amphitheatre or deep bay, with some hills of considerable elevation in +the distance. + +All the islands of this group are low and sandy, excepting DEPUCH, which +is high, and of a very peculiar formation; it is described in the first +volume. + +We did not land upon it, but on its north-east side there appeared to be +a bay, on which the French found a stream of water. + +Between DEPUCH ISLAND and CAPE LAMBERT the coast is very shoal. Towards +the latter the hills approach the sea, and the bottom is deeper. BEZOUT +ISLAND is connected to the cape by a reef, on which there are several dry +rocks; we passed close round its north-east edge, and had eleven fathoms. + +To the westward of Cape Lambert, in latitude 20 degrees 24 minutes 30 +seconds, and longitude 117 degrees 7 minutes, there are two deep +openings, which appeared to be merely bays, but their bottom was not +distinctly seen. On the top of the hill of the projecting point that +separates them, there are three remarkable rocky summits. The next point +has several round-backed hills upon it; it is the east head of NICKOL'S +BAY, into which there may possibly fall one or more streams; its shores +are low, and appeared to be lined with mangroves. Nickol's Bay affords +good anchorage in six and seven fathoms, and is only exposed to the +North-East. It is protected from westerly winds by high land: it is, +however, rather exposed to the South-West winds, from the little +elevation of the land in that direction; but if a vessel should drive, +the passage between Bezout and Delambre Island is clear and, as far as we +know, free from danger. + +DELAMBRE ISLAND has very extensive reefs stretching to the northward, and +also to the eastward, but on its western side did not appear to extend +for more than half a mile: the hill at the north end of the island is in +latitude 20 degrees 23 minutes 35 seconds, and longitude 117 degrees 1 +minute 25 seconds; the passage between it and the reef off HAUY ISLAND, +is about two miles and a half wide, and from nine to ten fathoms deep. +The edge of the reef off the latter island is not well defined, for we +passed several straggling rocks. + +LEGENDRE ISLAND is the northernmost of Dampier's Archipelago: it is nine +miles long, and from half to one and a half mile broad: near its +south-east end, which is connected to HAUY ISLAND, there are several +rocky islets, and near its extremity it has three remarkable hillocks; +its North-West point is in latitude 20 degrees 18 minutes 45 seconds, and +longitude 116 degrees 46 minutes; its north-east coast and north-west +extremity are of bold approach: the latter has a reef that fronts its +shores, extending for about a quarter of a mile into the sea; the ground +under its lee is rocky, and not safe to anchor near. Our cable hooked a +rock, fortunately however it was rotten, and broke away, so that the +cable, being a chain was not damaged. + +The islands of DAMPIER'S ARCHIPELAGO, are of high rocky character, and +very different from either the coast or the islands in their vicinity. It +consists of about twenty islands, besides smaller ones, scattered over a +space of forty miles in extent: Delambre is the easternmost island, and a +small sandy island to the South-West of Enderby Island is the +westernmost. + +GIDLEY ISLAND, and two others to the eastward, extend in a north and +south direction; they are high and rocky. The west shore of Gidley Island +appeared to be fronted by a continuous reef, on which some patches of dry +rocks were observed. Gidley Island is separated from Legendre Island by a +very shoal and rocky strait, apparently impassable for anything larger +than boats. It has several small sandy islets scattered about it, and at +low water the greater part is dry. There is doubtless a deep passage +through, but it must be intricate and dangerous, and only to be attempted +in a case of the most pressing emergency. On the island to the southward, +are two sandy bays. The land to the southward is doubtless a part of the +main: and is, like the other islands, high and rocky. It forms the +eastern shore of MERMAID's STRAIT, which is an excellent port, affording +safe and secure anchorage at all seasons. + +The islands on the western side of the strait, are LEWIS and MALUS. The +north-east point of the latter island, COURTENAY HEAD, is, without doubt, +Captain Dampier's Bluff Head. It is a very remarkable point; its summit +is in 20 degrees 29 minutes 5 seconds South, and 116 degrees 36 minutes +35 seconds East. On its west side is a sandy bay with good anchorage in +four and five fathoms. Malus Island is separated from Lewis Island by a +strait a mile wide; it is probably deep. + +The north-east point of LEWIS ISLAND is a narrow projecting tongue of +land, terminating in a high rocky lump; and to the southward of it, are +two high rocky islets of similar appearance. There is also another, but +of smaller size, off the south-east point of Malus Island. In the centre +of Lewis Island there is a valley, that stretches across to the opposite +sides of the island, forming a bay on either side. + +To the south of Lewis Island is a group of islands, which, from the +circumstance of our communicating with the natives, was called +INTERCOURSE ISLANDS. They are all small. The largest has a remarkable +summit upon it, in latitude 20 degrees 37 minutes 50 seconds, and +longitude 116 degrees 36 minutes 45 seconds: it is from this Island that +the natives drove us, and would not allow us to land.* The channel +between them and Lewis Island is more than a mile wide, and is seven and +eight fathoms deep. + +(*Footnote. Vide volume 1.) + +ENDERBY ISLAND is separated from Lewis Island by a channel one mile and a +half wide, apparently clear and free from danger. Its south-west point is +ROCKY HEAD, the summit of which was found to be in latitude 20 degrees 35 +minutes 25 seconds, and longitude 116 degrees 23 minutes 5 seconds. To +the north is GOODWYN ISLAND; and further north, and West-North-West from +Malus Island, from which it is separated by a strait two miles and a half +wide, is ROSEMARY ISLAND, which, when viewed from the North-North-East or +South-South-West, has three hummocks bearing from each other West by +North and East by South. The centre hummock is in latitude 20 degrees 27 +minutes 30 seconds, and longitude 116 degrees 31 minutes. In the vicinity +of Rosemary and Goodwyn Islands are several small rocky islands, +particularly on the north-east side of the former; and at the distance of +three miles, to the north of the centre of Malus Island, is a patch of +flat rocks, which are those seen and noticed by Dampier (Dampier volume 3 +page 81 table 4 Number 10) but from his vague account, it is not at all +certain what island he saw; and, was it not for the peculiarity and +remarkable appearance of Courtenay Head, it might have been any of the +others. There is good anchorage in all parts about the Archipelago, +particularly within Lewis Island, where the Intercourse Islands will +shelter a ship from whatever point the wind may blow. + +There is no wood of any size to be procured among the islands, which is a +great drawback upon its utility as a port. In the rainy season water is +doubtless abundant, but must be soon evaporated. We saw no rivulet or any +fresh water, excepting a few gallons that were protected from the heat of +the sun by being under the shade of a fig, but from the number of natives +seen by us, it is probable that there must be a large quantity not far +off. The natives of this part use logs to convey them from and to the +islands. A small sandy island, with a reef extending for two miles from +its north-west end, and one mile and a half from its south-east end, lies +off the south-west end of Enderby Island, and would serve as a good +protection from the sea in a South-West wind, for the anchorage on the +south side of Enderby Island. + +The mainland is high and rocky behind the islands, but at the bottom of +the bay again assumes a low character: more to the westward, a range of +hills rises abruptly and advances for fourteen miles in a North-West +direction from the interior, and reaches the shores of the bay, when it +extends for eleven miles to the westward, and is then terminated by a +valley, or an opening of one mile and a half wide, that separates it from +the rocky hills of CAPE PRESTON. The cape juts out into the sea, and is +connected by reefs to some low sandy islands to the North-East; it is in +latitude 20 degrees 49 minutes 45 seconds, and longitude 116 degrees 5 +minutes. In the centre of the bay, at eight miles North 64 degrees East +from the extremity of the cape, is a low, sandy islet, of about one-third +of a mile in diameter; and behind it, near the shores of the bay, there +appeared to be other islands of the same size and character, the +particular form and situation of which could not be distinguished. + +There is a small rocky islet off Cape Preston, and some to the +South-South-West, in which direction the shore trends in and forms a bay, +the shores of which were not seen. + +From Cape Preston the coast assumes a very different character from that +to the eastward, being less sinuous, very low, and either fronted by +mangroves, or by a range of sandhills, both of which conceal the +interior. The coast, at from three to seven miles, is fronted by a range +of low, sandy islets, from one quarter to two-thirds of a mile in +diameter: there are, however, two or three near Cape Preston of larger +size, particularly one bearing South 66 degrees West, fifteen miles from +the extremity of the cape, of rocky character, but very level, and +apparently sterile; it is nearly circular, and about two miles in +diameter. It is visible for about five leagues. + +Thirty miles South-West by South from Cape Preston is a mangrove bight, +with several openings communicating with a large lagoon, or body of +water, at the base of a small range of hills. The bight is shoal and +thickly studded with sandy islets. Hence the coast extends to the +South-West by West, fronted by mangroves for about forty miles, and then +for about sixteen miles South-West to the entrance of Curlew River. + +Between Curlew River and Cape Preston, a space of eighty-five miles, +there are not less than thirty sandy islets in sight from the coast, +separated from each other by channels, generally navigable, between one +to five miles wide. Good anchorage may be found among these islands, for +the sea cannot fail of being smooth in the strongest winds. The depth +among these islands is from four to six fathoms, and the bottom generally +of gravel or sand. + +CURLEW RIVER is defended by a shoal entrance, and is merely a creek +running through a low country for three miles; its banks are overrun with +mangroves, and it affords no inducement whatever for vessels to visit it. +The country behind is low, and, at spring tides, or during the rainy +season, is inundated. + +The coast continues low and sandy to CAPE LOCKER, a distance of thirteen +miles, and with the same barren character for twenty miles further, +forming the east side of Exmouth Gulf. ROSILY, and THEVENARD ISLES are +low and sandy; they were seen by us at a considerable distance. + +BARROW'S ISLAND, of about forty miles in circumference, is of moderate +height and level aspect, but of very sterile and barren appearance. A +considerable reef extends towards the main from its south-east side, +where there is also a small islet: on the north-east side are three +islets; the two outermost of which are low and rocky. The west coast of +Barrow's Island was seen by the French, who thought it was part of the +main; they named its north-west end, CAPE DUPUY, and its south end, CAPE +POIVRE. At ten miles South 25 degrees West from the last cape, the French +charts have assigned a position to a reef: and four miles North 10 +degrees East from Cape Dupuy is another. Neither were noticed by us, +since we did not approach this part sufficiently near to see them if they +do exist; of which, from the account of the French, there can be but +little doubt. + +LOWENDAL ISLAND and TRIMOUILLE ISLAND were seen by us, but not any +vestige of HERMITE ISLAND, which the French have placed in their chart. +From M. de Freycinet's account, the two latter islands were seen at +different times; and since Trimouille Island has a reef extending for +five miles from its north-western extremity, as Hermite Island is +described to have, there seems to be good reason to suppose that there is +but one; had there been two, we should have seen it on passing this part +in 1822.* + +(*Footnote. Vide volume 1.) + +From the reasons mentioned in the narrative, there remains no doubt in my +mind that Barrow's Island, and Lowendal and Trimouille Islands (which the +French called the Montebello Islands) are the long lost TRYAL ROCKS. The +latitude and description answer very exactly; the longitude alone raises +the doubt, but the reckonings of former navigators cannot be depended +upon, and errors of ten or twelve degrees of longitude were not rare, of +which many proofs might be found, by comparing the situations of places +formerly determined with their position on the charts of the present +time. Many old navigators were not very particular; and never gave the +error of their account upon arriving at their destined port, either from +shame or from carelessness and indifference. + +A reef of rocks is said to exist in latitude 20 degrees 17 minutes 40 +seconds, and longitude 114 degrees 46 minutes 6 seconds. They were seen +by Lieutenant Ritchie, R.N., in the command of a merchant brig, as +appears by an account published in the Sydney Gazette. + +EXMOUTH GULF terminates the North-west Coast of Australia; it is +thirty-four miles wide at its entrance (between the North-west Cape and +Cape Locker) and forty-five miles deep. Its eastern side is formed by a +very low coast, the particulars of which were not distinguished, for it +is lined by an intricate cluster of islands that we could not, having but +one anchor, penetrate among. In the entrance is Muiron Island, and two +others, h and i; and within the gulf they are too numerous to +distinguish: all the outer ones have been assigned correct positions to, +as have all between Exmouth Gulf and Dampier's Archipelago. The islets y +and z are the outer ones of the group; between which and the western +shore there is a space of fourteen miles in extent, quite free from +danger, with regular soundings between nine and twelve fathoms on a sandy +bottom. Under the western shore, which is the deepest, there are some +bays which will afford anchorage; but the bottom is generally very rocky. +In the neighbourhood of the Bay of Rest, the shore is more sinuous, and +in the bay there is good anchorage in three and four fathoms, mud. Here +the gulf is twelve miles across, and from three to six fathoms deep; but +the eastern side is shoal and very low. The gulf then shoalens and +narrows very much; and at fifteen miles farther terminates in an inlet, +or, as has been subsequently conjectured, a strait communicating with the +sea at the south end of the high land that forms the western side of the +gulf, and which is doubtless the identical Cloates Island that has +puzzled navigators for the last eighty years. It perfectly answers the +descriptions that have been given; and the only thing against it is the +longitude; but this, like that of the Tryal Rocks, is not to be attended +to. + +(*Footnote. Vide below.) + +The south-west point of this land has been named Point Cloates until its +insularity shall be determined, when, for the sake of Geography, the name +of CLOATES ISLAND should be restored. At the bottom of the south-eastern +side of Exmouth Gulf the land is so low and the islands so numerous, that +it was in vain that we attempted to examine its shores, which was also +rendered still more difficult and dangerous to persevere in doing, from +our losses of anchors, and the strong winds which blew every night from +the South-West. + +The NORTH-WEST CAPE is a low, sandy point, projecting for full two miles +to the East-North-East from the fall of the land, which was called +VLAMING HEAD. There is a reef of small extent off the cape, but separated +from it by a channel half a mile wide, and six fathoms deep; a sandy spit +extends also from the cape for about a quarter of a mile. + +The extremity of the North-West Cape is in latitude 21 degrees 47 minutes +40 seconds, and longitude 114 degrees 3 minutes 40 seconds; and Vlaming +Head in latitude 21 degrees 48 minutes 40 seconds, and longitude 114 +degrees 1 minute 40 seconds. + +... + + +APPENDIX A. SECTION 5. + +OF THE WINDS AND WEATHER, AND DESCRIPTION OF THE WESTERN COAST BETWEEN +THE NORTH-WEST CAPE AND CAPE LEEUWIN. + +NORTH-WEST COAST. + +We did not obtain much experience of the winds upon this coast, having +only been upon it during the months of January and February, when they +prevailed between South-South-East and South-South-West, veering +sometimes, though rarely, to South-West. In the winter season (June, +July, and August) hard gales of wind have been experienced from the +North-West, even as high as Shark's Bay; and at this season the coast +ought not to be approached. The South-east Trade is suspended in the +neighbourhood of the coast in the summer season, and the winds are almost +constant from South-South-West. + +Between the North-west Cape and POINT CLOATES, which is in 22 degrees 33 +minutes 5 seconds South, a space of about fifty-two miles, the shore is +defended by a reef of rocks, extending from three to five miles from it. +The land is high and level, and of most sterile appearance: nearer the +north end there is a low, sandy plain at the foot of the hills; but to +the southward the coast appeared to be steep and precipitous. This is +evidently the land that has been taken for Cloates Island; and, in fact, +it is not at all unlikely to be an island, for, to the southward of the +latter point, the shore trends in, and was so indistinctly seen, that it +probably communicates with the bottom of Exmouth Gulf.* At latitude 23 +degrees 10 minutes the coast slightly projects, and is fronted by a reef, +on which the sea was breaking heavily. + +(*Footnote. Vide volume 1.) + +CAPE FARQUHAR, in latitude 23 degrees 35 minutes, and longitude 113 +degrees 35 minutes 35 seconds, is a low, sandy point. To the northward of +it the coast trends in and forms a bay, but not deep enough to offer +shelter from the prevailing winds. + +Between Cape Farquhar and Cape Cuvier the coast is low and sandy; the +land has a level outline, and the shore is formed by a sandy beach, which +did not appear to be fronted by rocks. The land of CAPE CUVIER is high, +level, and rocky, and, rising abruptly from the sea, forms a bluff point, +in latitude 24 degrees 0 minutes 30 seconds, and longitude 113 degrees 21 +minutes 48 seconds. This promontory is the northern head of Shark's Bay. +The land was not seen by us to the South-East, and is laid down, as is +indeed the whole of Shark's Bay, from M. De Freycinet's chart, which was +drawn from the survey made of it in Commodore Baudin's voyage. + +The western coast of BERNIER and DORRE ISLANDS are bold to, and are +composed of a high, precipitous cliff, with a level summit. The only +irregularity upon them is a slight elevation on the south end of the +latter. Off the north end of Bernier Island is the small islet called +KOK'S. The channel between Bernier and Dorre is about a mile and a half +wide, but is so blocked up by rocks as to be impassable. + +DIRK HARTOG'S ISLAND extends from Cape Inscription, in latitude 25 +degrees 28 minutes 20 seconds, to 26 degrees 6 minutes; it is here +separated from Point Escarpee (Bluff Point) by a strait, which has a +shoal communication with Shark's Bay. Dirk Hartog's Island is high, and +of similar appearance to Bernier and Dorre; it is fronted by a line of +breakers. DIRK HARTOG'S ROAD, at the north end of the island, is a +commodious roadstead, sheltered from all winds to the southward of east +and west; and, since they are the prevailing and almost constant winds of +this part, may be considered a very secure anchorage. There is a reef +extending off Cape Inscription for half a mile, which will also afford +protection from the sea, even should the wind blow hard from the west. +The beach of the bay is fronted by coral rocks, but affords easy landing +in all parts, particularly at high water. This beach is covered with +turtles' nests; and at daylight thirty to fifty might be turned and +embarked without any difficulty or delay. The animals are easily taken, +since the rocks prevent their escaping into the sea; and it is only at +high water that they can return. M. De Freycinet says (page 189) that +there is a passage between the reef, off the east point of the bay, and +the shore with ten fathoms. + +The following account of Shark's Bay is taken from M. De Freycinet's +account (page 189 et seq.) + +In the fairway of the entrance to Shark's Bay, between Dorre and Dirk +Hartog's Islands, is DAMPIER'S REEF; it is two miles in extent from east +to west, and about one mile wide. It has but two and a half and three +fathoms water over it, and should be approached with care, on account of +the swell. Proceeding southerly from Cape Levillain, which is the east +head of Dirk Hartog's Road, at the distance of five or six miles is a +cove (barachois) formed by reefs, where boats might obtain shelter. Hence +to Quoin Point (Coin-de-Mire) the coast has no sinuosities. TETRODON BAY +is seven miles wide and very shallow; it has two or three sandy islets in +it, and can only be entered by small boats. Near Refuge Point is a safe +and convenient creek. To the southward of this there are several shoal +bays. To the eastward of Cape Ransonnet, which is peaked and of a +moderate elevation, there are several little creeks well adapted for +boats and, to the westward, a sandy plain extends to the south extremity +of the island. That part of Shark's Bay, between Dirk Hartog's Island and +Peron's Peninsula, is formed by Le Passage Epineux, Useless Harbour +(Havre Inutile) and Henry Freycinet's Harbour: to the southward of the +line of bearing between Quoin Point and Cape Lesueur, the sea is shoal +and studded with banks, but to the north it is quite open. + +The Passage Epineux, which separates Dirk Hartog's Island from the main, +is about two miles wide; but the reefs and rocks, which protrude from +either shore, reduce the passage to half that width. The depth upon the +rocky bar which stretches across the entrance is six fathoms, but +immediately without it the depth is twenty-two fathoms. M. De Freycinet +says, that a ship upon a lee shore in the vicinity of Point Escarpee may +enter this opening with confidence; she will find a good shelter and +excellent anchorage in five and six fathoms fine sand. To enter it, pass +in mid-channel, if anything, borrowing upon Point Escarpee, and steer for +the Mondrain de Direction, and pass over the bar without fearing the +breakers upon it, which are caused by the sudden decrease of depth, from +twenty-two to six fathoms; after this the depth will continue without +altering more than one fathom. The best anchorage is to the South-West of +Cape Ransonnet, for within it the passage is blocked up by shoals, over +which a boat cannot without difficulty pass. + +USELESS HARBOUR is so shoal as to be, according to its name, quite +unserviceable; since boats can with difficulty penetrate to the bottom, +although its length is twenty-one miles: HENRY FREYCINET HARBOUR is +twenty-two leagues long in a South-East direction; and from three to six +leagues wide. Its entrance is blocked up by a bar; and, although the +depth within is in some parts considerable, it is very doubtful whether +ships can enter it. The shores are difficult to land upon, from the +shoals extending so far off. + +On the western side of this harbour there are several inlets and deep +bays, but too shoal to be of any service. The eastern shore of the +harbour is formed by PERON'S PENINSULA, which separates it from HAMELIN'S +HARBOUR. It is sixteen leagues long and five leagues wide. DAMPIER'S BAY, +at the north-west end, contains several sandy bays, where boats may +almost always land. It is here that the French had their observatory. + +From the northern point of the peninsula, Pointe des Hauts-Fonds, the +reefs extend for three leagues to the North and North-North-West. They +were then supposed to extend to the North-East. + +The French only examined the western shores of Hamelin Harbour. The +opposite coast was seen only at a distance, and the shoalness of the +water prevented their boats from approaching it. M. De Freycinet says: +"Ces terres, basses et steriles, ne contiennent aucune coupure; +l'uniformite y est par-tout complete," page 194. + +Although Hamelin Harbour is not so deep as that of Henry Freycinet, on +the opposite side of Peron's Peninsula, it is nevertheless of larger +size. The centre is much occupied by banks, which entirely surround FAURE +ISLAND; the diameter of which is about two leagues. + +Although many sandy beaches were seen at a distance upon the eastern +shore of Shark's Bay, yet the boats of the French ships could not reach +the shore on account of the reefs which front it. Here and there they +distinguished red cliffs, and some signs of a scanty and burnt up +vegetation. + +Of the anchorages in Shark's Bay, the most convenient appears to be that +in Dampier's Bay, at the north-west end of Peron's Peninsula, as well on +account of the excellency of the holding-ground, as the facility of +procuring fuel. The Naturaliste remained a long time at this anchorage, +and never experienced any ill effect from the winds. The distance from +the shore was six miles, and the depth six fathoms, fine sandy bottom. +The sea was so clear, that the anchor was easily distinguished. The +Naturaliste found only occasion to moor with a kedge, merely to keep the +cable clear of the anchor. As the strongest winds were the South and +East, the bower anchor was laid in the latter direction. + +The above seems to be all that is worth taking from M. De Freycinet's +account as regards the navigation of Shark's Bay. The coasts of the +harbours of Henry Freycinet and Hamelin are much more detailed by him, +and there is also much valuable information upon various heads, +particularly as to meteorological observations, and the productions of +the land and sea, and a curious example of the effect of a mirage; but as +these subjects are irrelevant to the matter of this paper, they have been +disregarded. + +From POINT ESCARPEE to GANTHEAUME BAY, the coast is formed by a +precipitous range of rocky cliffs, rising abruptly from the sea, to the +height perhaps of three or four hundred feet. The coast is fringed with +an uninterrupted line of breakers. The summit of the land is so level, +and the coast so uniform, that no summits or points could be set with any +chance of recognizing them. The depth at ten miles off the shore, was +between fifty and seventy fathoms, decreasing to thirty-four in the +neighbourhood of Gantheaume Bay. + +GANTHEAUME BAY probably affords shelter on its south side from South-West +winds: there was some appearance of an opening in it, but Vlaming, who +sent a boat on shore here, has not mentioned it; and if there is one, it +is of very small size, and unimportant. The shores of the bay are low and +of sterile appearance. + +RED POINT, a steep cliffy projection, is the north extremity of a range +of reddish-coloured cliffs, of about two hundred feet high, that extends +to the southward for eight miles, when a sandy shore commences and +continues with little variation, except occasional rocky projections and +sometimes rocky bays, as far as Cape Burney. The coast is moderately +high, and, in the interior, some hills of an unusual height for this part +of the coast are seen. MOUNT NATURALISTE is in latitude 28 degrees 18 +minutes, and between the latitudes 28 degrees 25 minutes and 28 degrees +55 minutes, is MORESBY'S FLAT-TOPPED RANGE. It is terminated at the north +end by three hills, called MENAI HILLS; and at the southern end, by the +WIZARD HILLS. MOUNT FAIRFAX is in latitude 28 degrees 45 minutes 30 +seconds, and longitude 114 degrees 38 minutes 45 seconds. The coast in +front of this range is of pleasing and verdant appearance; two or three +small openings in the sandy beach, with an evident separation in the +hills behind, particularly one in latitude 28 degrees 36 minutes, bore +indications of rivulets; and the smokes of natives' fires, and the more +wooded character of the coast, showed that the country was evidently more +fertile and productive than any other part between Cape Leeuwin and the +North-west Cape. The bottom at from ten to twelve miles off, is from +twenty to twenty-five fathoms deep, and composed of a fine sand, of a +dark gray colour. + +CAPE BURNEY is in latitude 28 degrees 56 minutes: four miles to the +southward is a reef, apparently detached from the shore. + +HOUTMAN'S ABROLHOS. The old Dutch charts give a very considerable extent +to this reef; Van Keulen makes it cover a space of sea, forty-seven miles +long, and twenty-five broad. We only saw the islands at the south end, +with three detached reefs between them and the shore; one of which (the +southernmost) may probably be the TURTLE DOVE. The islands lie West 4 +degrees North true, forty-one miles from Cape Burney, but the channel +(GEELVINK CHANNEL) between the shore and the reefs, is not more than +twenty-six miles wide. The south-easternmost reef that we saw is about +three miles long, and lies nearly ten miles South 55 degrees East from +the islands; it appeared to be covered, but the sea was breaking high +over it. In passing this part of the coast, Captain Hamelin, who +commanded the Naturaliste under Commodore Baudin's orders, must have +steered within the reefs, as the Geelvink (Vlaming's ship) did. The reef +that is laid down upon the chart, in latitude 29 degrees 10 minutes is +from Van Keulen. We did not see it. (See Horsburgh volume 1 page 98.) + +From Cape Burney the coast is rather low and sandy; in 29 degrees 16 +minutes is a reef; and seven miles more to the south is another; they lie +from five to seven miles from the shore. + +In latitude 29 degrees 6 minutes 30 seconds, there is a small peaked +hillock; and in 29 degrees 17 minutes 50 seconds, a small sandy patch +upon the land. + +Between latitudes 29 degrees 25 minutes and 29 degrees 55 minutes, we did +not see the coast, having passed it in the night. It is laid down from +Van Keulen's chart. Hence to Island Point, which is low and rocky, the +shore is lined with reefs, extending off shore for two to four miles. At +the back of this, and at about eight miles from the coast, is a rocky +range, of three leagues in length, on which are MOUNTS PERON and LESUEUR. + +To the south of ISLAND POINT, are two bays fronted by reefs; the +southernmost, JURIEN BAY, has three or more small islets in it. The coast +to the south of the bay is sandy. In latitude 30 degrees 37 minutes, are +three small rocky lumps, very remarkably placed; the middle one is in +latitude 30 degrees 37 minutes 40 seconds: fourteen miles to the south of +these are two others, the north-easternmost is in latitude 30 degrees 51 +minutes 50 seconds, they are very conspicuously placed upon a ridge of +bare white sand. Hence the coast winds to the South-South-East for eighty +miles as far as the entrance of Swan River. The coast is low and slightly +wooded, and lined with reefs, that in some places extend for two miles +from the shore. Off CAPE LESCHENAULT (in latitude 31 degrees 21 minutes) +is a reef, lying six miles and a half from the shore; it appeared to be +connected with the rocks that line the coast. + +The following account of SWAN RIVER is taken from Captain De Freycinet's +account of Baudin's voyage (page 175 et seq). + +"The mouth of Swan River is in latitude 32 degrees 4 minutes 31 seconds, +and longitude 113 degrees 26 minutes 28 seconds East of Paris, or (115 +degrees 46 minutes 43 seconds East of Greenwich). The channel is +obstructed by a bar of rocks, which it is very difficult to pass over, +and, indeed, impracticable if the wind blows from the sea. On entering, +the passage is on the starboard side: it is narrow and shoal, and divided +into two channels; in each of which there is from five to six feet of +water; after passing this, there is seven and eight feet: the course must +then be towards the west, to avoid two shoals, which are upon the right +bank: after half a mile the navigation is free, and in mid-channel the +depth is not less than seven, eight, and nine feet. The river then trends +in a northerly direction for seven miles, without any sinuosity of +consequence. On the eastern bank, are two shoals; the passage is then on +the opposite side of the river, the depth of which is eight feet: beyond +these banks the course of the river trends to the eastward towards a low +point, upon which there is a solitary tree; an extensive bank fronts this +point, and the channel continues on the western shore, ten feet deep. +Here the river is a mile broad; it then increases its width, and forms +spacious bays on either side, that were not examined. To the South-East +is an opening, which may probably be an arm of the river; it was called +MOREAU INLET; it was not examined. Opposite to it is a sharp point, +fronted by a shoal, and the channel is on the eastern side of the river, +with thirteen feet water. Here the river widens and forms a basin, two +miles and a half wide: a little above this the river is blocked up by +shoals and islets (HEIRISSON ISLES) between which the depth is not more +than two or three feet, but afterwards deepens gradually from five to +fifteen feet: the banks of the river are then not more than one-third of +a mile wide, and then continue in a serpentine course, with a channel +from seven to ten feet deep, and free from shoals, as far as the French +boats examined it. The stream of the river ran very slowly, and winds +through a valley, one side of which is abrupt and precipitous, and when +it ceases to be so on one side, the heights immediately appear on the +other." + +In front of this river is a group of islands, of which two only are of +large size, namely, ROTTNEST and BUACHE. We anchored on the north side of +the former, but broke the fluke, from the rocky nature of the bottom. On +the North-East side of the island, the anchorage is better, since it is +more sheltered. Rottnest Island is five miles long: it was discovered by +Vlaming in 1696. Its shores are very rocky and difficult to land upon, +particularly those of its northern side, which is fronted by rocks. Off +its north point there are some rocky islets, and on the north-east side a +convenient landing place in a sandy bay, where boats may put ashore with +great facility. The island is covered with a pine-like tree, which is +very good for fire-wood, but no fresh water was found in any part; the +French were equally unsuccessful in their search. The north-east point of +Rottnest Island is in 31 degrees 59 minutes 30 seconds South, and 115 +degrees 31 minutes 12 seconds East; and the variation 4 degrees 50 +minutes West. + +BUACHE ISLAND, according to Captain De Freycinet's account (page 170) is +equally difficult to land upon; it is well wooded, but destitute of fresh +water. + +To the south of CAPE PERON is a long range of sandy coast, for seventy +miles, to GEOGRAPHE BAY, which is open and exposed to the northward and +north-west; its western head is formed by Cape Naturaliste, a rocky +point, in latitude 33 degrees 27 minutes 30 seconds, and longitude 114 +degrees 57 minutes 53 seconds, beyond which the coast extends to the +southward, without any bays to Cape Leeuwin. Off the cape is Naturaliste +Reef, in latitude 33 degrees 12 minutes, and longitude 114 degrees 59 +minutes 8 seconds; it was seen by the French expedition. The land is here +of a moderate height, but of level aspect. There is a remarkable patch of +bare sand, in latitude 34 degrees 12 minutes, and longitude 114 degrees +57 minutes. It is the Tache blanche remarquable of De Freycinet's chart. +It lies about seven miles from the south extreme of the island. + +... + + +APPENDIX A. SECTION 6. + +OF THE WINDS AND WEATHER UPON THE SOUTH COAST. DIRECTIONS FOR KING GEORGE +THE THIRD'S SOUND, AND HYDROGRAPHICAL REMARKS RELATING TO BASS STRAIT. + +SOUTH COAST. + +Between the meridians of Cape Leeuwin and Bass Strait, the weather is +generally very unsettled and tempestuous; and, at certain seasons, very +much against a ship making the western passage from Port Jackson, which +is by passing through Bass Strait, and along the south coast; but it so +happens that at the time when ships cannot proceed through Torres Strait, +by reason of the Westerly Monsoon, namely, from the month of December to +that of March, easterly winds prevail upon the south coast, and are more +regular and strong in that space between the land and the parallel of +Bass Strait.* I have been told that the south-westerly gales that +sometimes occur during that season, seldom, if ever, blow home upon the +coast; and that when they do reach the land, they partake more of the +character of the sea breeze; be that as it may, a ship steering to the +westward should keep to the north of 40 degrees, in order to benefit by +the regularity of the wind, which to the south of that parallel generally +blows from some western quarter. From April to October the westerly gales +are very constant, and veer between South by West and North by East; but, +in the months of June and July, seldom veer to the southward of +South-West or northward of North-West; they are then accompanied by a +deep and heavy sea. The wind, in the summer season, generally revolves +with the sun, and, as the atmosphere becomes more dense, veers to the +South-East, with fine weather. + +(*Footnote. Horsburgh volume 2 page 506.) + +The marine barometer is here of considerable importance, as its rise +always precedes a south-east wind, and its fall a change from the +North-West; it seldom, however, stands lower than twenty-nine and a half +inches. The currents generally set to the north, and seldom run with any +velocity either to the east or west. A ship steering along this coast to +the eastward, bound to Port Jackson through Torres Strait, should steer +upon the parallel of 41 degrees, to avoid being thrown into the bight to +the west of Cape Northumberland, where with a South-East wind, that would +otherwise be fair for carrying her through Bass Strait, she would be +detained probably a week. + +Upon making Van Diemen's Land, she is ready for either a northerly or a +southerly wind; since, with the former, she can round Van Diemen's Land, +without suffering much detention, or materially lengthening her voyage. + +KING GEORGE THE THIRD'S SOUND was discovered by Captain Vancouver in the +year 1791, on his celebrated voyage to the North-west Coast of America. +It offers an excellent resort for vessels, and is convenient for all the +purposes of refitting, wooding, and watering. The natives are friendly; +the banks of Oyster Harbour afford a large abundance of oysters and other +shell-fish, and the harbours and rivers are well-stocked with fish and +birds. + +There are many convenient anchorages in the sound; the best place for a +large ship, when it is necessary to refit the rigging at the same time +that she is completing her wood and water, is PRINCESS ROYAL HARBOUR; but +for a small vessel, not drawing more than eleven feet, OYSTER HARBOUR is +preferable, because she is secured to within one hundred yards of the +shore, and therefore better situated for the protection of her people at +their occupations from the natives, who are numerous, and will daily +visit them. But, for a ship only wanting fuel and water, there is a sandy +bay in the south-west corner of the sound, in which two or three streams +of excellent water run into the sea over the sand, from which a ship +might complete her hold in a day or two, by digging a well to collect it. +Wood may also be procured at this place, but not of so large a size, or +perhaps of so good a quality as at other parts. This bay is readily +found, by its being the first to the westward of a rocky point, that +projects from some remarkable bare sand hillocks, as also from its being +the second sandy beach to the westward of the low flat rocky islet at the +back of Seal Island. + +The anchorage is good, being a bottom of sand and weeds, and is +sufficiently protected from easterly winds by BREAKSEA and MICHAELMAS +ISLANDS. The anchorage between SEAL ISLAND and the first sandy beach to +the westward of BALD HEAD, with the low flat rocky islet bearing west, in +six or seven fathoms sand and weeds, should be preferred during the +summer months; for the easterly winds then prevail, and sometimes blow +strong, even as late as March; the anchorage is landlocked, excepting in +the direction of East by North, the only quarter to which it is exposed, +and even in that direction the angle subtending the sea horizon is not +greater than ten degrees of the circle, which is of insignificant +consequence. + +There is no water nearer to this anchorage than in the sandy bay above +mentioned, but the distance is trifling for a ship that can send boats +with men enough to protect themselves while employed in filling the +casks, for notwithstanding the friendly communication we have had with +the inhabitants of this sound, they are not to be trusted, unless their +character is different from the rest of their countrymen that we have +seen. + +Water is procured at Princess Royal and Oyster Harbours by digging holes +at the edge of the sand under the hills; but, at the latter place, the +stream that we used outside the bar affords plenty, of excellent quality, +without the trouble of digging. + +Over the bar of Oyster Harbour there is not more than ten and a half feet +at low water, and in the neaps twelve feet at high water; but it is +likely that, at spring-tides, there may be fourteen feet, or perhaps more +if the wind is blowing into the harbour; but during the springs high +water always takes place at night, and it would not, therefore, be +prudent to attempt to pass the bar at that time. + +A vessel intending to go to Oyster Harbour should anchor off the sandy +beach immediately to the eastward of the entrance, that is, between the +breakers off the point and the bar, in three fathoms sand, bringing the +summit of Green Island, in the harbour, on with the extremity of the +bushes of the west point of entrance, and the highest part of Breaksea +Island in a line with the outer point of the bay: a boat should then be +sent to sound the bar. The mark for the deepest part is when the western +summit of some flat-topped land, at the back of Oyster Harbour, is a +little open of the rocks off the east side of the entrance. + +After the bar is passed, the channel is deepest when the centre of the +flat land is kept midway between the points of entrance, avoiding a spit +of rocks that projects from the rocky point at the west end of the +watering beach. The strongest winds are from the westward, and therefore +bower anchors should be placed to the south-west and north-west: warps +and the stream cable will be sufficient to secure her from easterly +winds, as the hills rise immediately over the vessel on that shore. If +the run of water outside the bar should fail, holes may be dug at the +edge of the grass, about three feet deep, which will yield a sufficient +quantity in two or three days for any vessel that can pass over it. + +The flood-tide in the entrance generally ran sixteen hours, and ebbed +eight hours. High water at full and change took place at 10 hours 10 +minutes at night; but on the bar the rise and fall was very irregular, +and a vessel going in should pay great attention to the depth, if her +draught is more than ten feet, for it sometimes rises suddenly two feet. +The spring-tides take place about the third or fourth day after new or +full moon. The variation here is about 7 degrees East. The situation of +Seal Island, from Captain Flinders' observations, is in latitude 35 +degrees 4 minutes 55 seconds, and longitude 117 degrees 58 minutes 7 +seconds. + +A small island was reported in the Sydney Gazette to have been seen in +latitude 36 degrees 27 minutes, and longitude 127 degrees 2 minutes East; +but as the account says, that Kangaroo Island was seen the same day, +which is not less than one hundred and fifty leagues from the above +position, it appears too vague to be correct. (See Horsburgh Supp. page +32.) + +BLACK PYRAMID, off the north-west end of Van Diemen's Land, in Bass +Strait, is situated about 4 minutes too much to the southward on Captain +Flinders' chart. + +BELL'S ROCK. The following account of a rock, seen by Mr. Bell, the +Commander of the ship Minerva, on her outward-bound passage to New South +Wales, appeared in a Sydney (New South Wales) Gazette, of the 16th of +December, 1824. + +"On the 14th of November the Minerva very narrowly escaped striking on a +rock, in the fairway of the west entrance to Bass Strait, on the south +side of King's Island. Reid's rocks bearing North six miles, and the +Black Pyramid East-South-East: from this situation the danger was about +half a mile off (to the southward); but as the water broke only at +intervals of three or four minutes, although the swell was very heavy, it +is probable there may be sufficient depth of water to carry a ship over +it. An indifferent observation made the latitude of the ship at the time +40 degrees 26 minutes." + +In M. De Freycinet's chart of Bass Strait, some rocky islets are placed +forty miles east of Sea-Elephant Bay. I did not succeed in finding them, +although the Mermaid sailed close to their position. (See volume 1.) + +The PYRAMID, at the east end of Bass Strait, is placed five miles too +much to the northward: its true situation is in latitude 39 degrees 52 +minutes 40 seconds, and longitude 147 degrees 11 minutes 30 seconds. + +A reef of rocks were seen by Lieutenant John Lamb, R.N., off Cape Albany +Otway. (See Horsburgh volume 2 page 499.) + +There appears to be a considerable difference in the positions assigned +to ALBATROSS ISLAND, by the French expedition and Captain Flinders; the +former made the difference between the meridian of Albatross Island, and +that of the rock in Sea-Elephant Bay, 24 minutes 45 seconds; whilst by +the latter it is 32 minutes 30 seconds. But as Captain Flinders only saw +the north end of KING'S ISLAND, the error seems to originate in his +having laid down its eastern side from other authorities, for his +difference of longitude between its north-west point and the centre of +Albatross Island only differs 2 minutes 30 seconds from the French, who +surveyed that island with great care. + +Several sunken rocks have been discovered from time to time near the +north end of GREAT ISLAND, so that ships, bound through Bass Strait to +the eastward, should not pass within Craggy Island without using great +caution. The best passage is on the south side of Kent's Group, between +it and the rocky islet (WRIGHT'S ROCK) to the south-east. + +In a line between the above rocky islet and Craggy Island, and about two +miles from the former, is a reef with two small rocks upon it. (See +Horsburgh Supp. page 32.) + +There are some considerable errors in Captain Flinders' chart of Van +Diemen's Land, with respect to the latitudes of the South-west Cape, the +Mewstone, the South cape, and the land between them. The first is laid +down 8 minutes too much to the North 30 degrees West (true) and the other +places in proportion. The corrected situations are given in the second +volume of this work. + +... + + +APPENDIX A. SECTION 7. + +DESCRIPTION OF THE SHOALS AND REEFS IN THE NEIGHBOURHOOD OF THE COASTS OF +AUSTRALIA. + +REEFS, EAST COAST. + +ELIZABETH'S REEF (see Horsburgh's Supp. page 52) in latitude 30 degrees 5 +minutes, and longitude 159 degrees, was discovered by the ships Claudine +and Marquis of Hastings, on the 16th of May, 1820. Within two cables' +length of the reef, they found fourteen fathoms; at a quarter of a mile +off the depth was twenty-five fathoms, but beyond that the bottom was not +reached. It is about three miles in circuit, with deep water in the +centre: the edge is covered, but some straggling rocky lumps show at +intervals above the surface of the water. The east side of the reef +extends about North-North-East and South-South-West for one mile, but the +greatest extent seemed to be West-North-West and East-South-East. + +MIDDLETON'S SHOAL is in latitude 29 degrees 14 minutes, and longitude 158 +degrees 53 minutes. (See Horsburgh volume 2 page 508.) + +CATO'S BANK is in latitude 23 degrees 6 minutes, and longitude 155 +degrees 23 minutes. (Flinders volume 2 page 298 and Horsburgh volume 2 +page 509.) + +WRECK REEF is in latitude 22 degrees 11 minutes 23 seconds, and longitude +155 degrees 18 minutes 50 seconds. (Flinders volume 2 page 330 and +Horsburgh volume 2 page 509.) + +CARNS, or MID-DAY REEF, was discovered by Mr. Carns, the master of the +ship Neptune, on the 21st of June, 1818, having taken a departure the day +before from Sandy Cape. It extends east and west for a considerable +distance: the ship passed round the western extremity at two miles off, +and found its bearing from Sandy Cape to be North 21 degrees East, one +hundred and seventy-six miles, and to be in latitude 21 degrees 58 +minutes, and longitude 154 degrees 20 minutes. Its eastern limit was not +seen: it consists of a string of sandbanks and rocks, from five to twenty +feet high, with passages between them. (Horsburgh Supp. page 35.) + +SIR JAMES SAUMAREZ' SHOAL was seen by Mr. Lihou; it is in latitude 21 +degrees 40 minutes, and longitude 153 degrees 46 minutes by chronometer, +which was found correct on making Sandy Cape a day or two afterwards. +There is reason to suppose that many other reefs exist to the North-West +of this position. + +KENN'S REEF, discovered by Mr. Alexander Kenn, Master of the ship William +Shand, on her passage from Sydney to Batavia, extends in the direction of +North West by North 1/2 North for ten miles, and is composed of sand and +rocks, some of which, at the south end, were six or eight feet out of the +water: it is six miles broad; the centre of the edge (? north) is in +latitude 21 degrees 9 minutes, and longitude 155 degrees 49 minutes (by +chronometer and lunars): it was found to bear South 67 degrees West, six +miles from Bird Islet, of Wreck Reef. + +BOOBY and BELLONA SHOALS. In the neighbourhood of these reefs, Lieutenant +John Lamb, R.N., Commander of the ship Baring, was embarrassed for three +days, in which interval he was sounding in between nineteen and +forty-five fathoms, and frequently passed shoal parts, upon which the sea +was breaking. The limits assigned by this officer to the extent of the +rocky ground, are the parallels of 20 degrees 40 minutes, and 21 degrees +50 minutes, and the meridians of 158 degrees 15 minutes and 159 degrees +30 minutes. A sandy islet was also seen by him, surrounded by a chain of +rocks in 21 degrees 24 1/2 minutes South, and 158 degrees 30 minutes +East. The ship Minerva also struck soundings in eight fathoms, with the +appearance of shoaler water to the South-West; this last danger is in a +line between the two shoals in about longitude 159 degrees 20 minutes. +(See Horsburgh Supp. page 35.) + +BAMPTON'S SHOAL is laid down in the shape of a horse-shoe, of not less +than forty-five miles in extent; on the north-east end are two islets +with trees. The AVON ISLES are probably near its south-west extremity: +they were seen by Mr. Sumner, Master of the ship Avon, September 18, +1823; and are described by him as being three-quarters of a mile in +circumference, twenty feet high, and the sea between them twenty fathoms +deep. At four miles North East by North from them the vessel sounded in +twelve fathoms, and at the same time saw a reef ten or fifteen miles to +the South-East, with deep water between it and the islets. A boat landed +on the south-westernmost islet, and found it inhabited only by birds, but +clothed with shrubs and wild grapes. By observation, these islands were +found to lie in latitude 19 degrees 40 minutes, and longitude 158 degrees +6 minutes. + +A reef is laid down in M. Krusenstern's Atlas of the Pacific Ocean (1824) +in latitude 17 degrees, and longitude 156 degrees, and is there called +MELLISH REEF. + +A REEF was seen by the ship FREDERICK, the north-east extremity of which +is laid down in latitude 20 degrees 44 minutes, and longitude 150 degrees +32 minutes; it is of semi-circular shape, and extends as far south as 21 +degrees 2 minutes, and appears to be nearly twenty miles wide. + +VINE'S HORSE-SHOE SHOAL; its northernmost end is in latitude 20 degrees 5 +minutes, and longitude 151 degrees 50 minutes: it presents its convex, or +outer edge, to the Southward, and extends as far as fifteen miles to the +South and East. + +DIANA'S BANK is placed in latitude 15 degrees 38 minutes, and longitude +150 degrees 28 minutes. (Horsburgh volume 2 page 509.) + +BETWEEN the parallels of 16 degrees 50 minutes and 17 degrees 45 minutes, +and the meridians of 150 degrees 30 minutes and 152 degrees 30 minutes, +there are several very extensive reefs, various parts of which have been +seen, according to the following accounts. + +Lieutenant Vine saw a DRY BANK in latitude 17 degrees 46 minutes, and +longitude 151 degrees 40 minutes. See the account of the shoal described +by M. Tregrosse. + +Mr. Brodie, Commander of the brig Alert, in October, 1817, saw A REEF +extending for a considerable distance in a North-East and South-West +direction. The Alert ran along the reef for twenty-five miles: about the +centre Mr. Brodie saw two sand islets in latitude 17 degrees 2 minutes, +and longitude 151 degrees 49 minutes. + +LIHOU'S SHOAL, probably a part of the above reefs seen by Lieutenant Vine +and from the Alert, lies in latitude 17 degrees 25 minutes, and longitude +151 degrees 45 minutes: it is forty-six miles in length, and lies +North-North-East and South-South-West. + +A very extensive RANGE OF SHOALS and ISLETS was seen by M. Tregrosse, of +the French brig Les Trois Freres, in company with the brig Jessie, in +1821, according to the subjoined account. + +On the 19th June, the two brigs in company fell in with a range of reefs, +terminated to the eastward by two sandy islets, the easternmost of which +is in 151 degrees 47 minutes (149 degrees 27 minutes East of Paris); the +vessels hauled to the wind immediately, but finding they could not pass +to windward, bore up, and ran along the shoal from eight a.m. to four +p.m., at the distance of a league and a half. Altogether they counted +seven islets, three of which were covered with shrubs, and the whole +connected by a reef, on the edge of which the sea broke heavily: they +were called GOVERNOR FARQUHAR'S GROUP: the westernmost islet is in 17 +degrees 39 minutes, and 151 degrees 27 minutes (149 degrees 7 minutes +East of Paris) and appeared to terminate the group. As it was near +sunset, the vessels hauled to the wind for the night, and at daylight +bore up on a north course: soon afterwards they saw an islet +West-North-West; they, however, continued to steer North until eight +o'clock, and then, having run nine miles, saw another island +North-North-East. On attempting to steer between the isles, they were +found to be connected, and having sounded in eleven fathoms, the vessels +bore up, and steered between the westernmost islet and two extensive +reefs, through a passage five or six miles wide, that appeared to be +clear. + +The westernmost islet is in 17 degrees 42 minutes South, and 150 degrees +43 minutes East (148 degrees 23 minutes East of Paris) and the +westernmost reef, in 17 degrees 44 minutes South, and 150 degrees 32 +minutes East (148 degrees 12 minutes East of Paris). A space of ten or +twelve leagues between Governor Farquhar's Group and that seen the +preceding day was passed in the night, and probably may contain other +reefs. The last group was named TREGROSSE'S ISLETS. + +NORTH COAST. + +The ALERT struck on a shoal to the westward of Torres Strait in 1817; it +seemed to be about two hundred fathoms in length, and about fifty yards +broad: it is in latitude 9 degrees 52 minutes, and longitude 140 degrees +50 minutes. + +In the vicinity of Cape Van Diemen there are many submarine coral banks, +that are not yet shoal enough to be called reefs; that which Captain +Flinders saw, and sounded upon in seven fathoms, lies in 9 degrees 56 +minutes latitude, and 129 degrees 28 minutes longitude. The Alert also +passed over a shoal patch with nine fathoms in 10 degrees 1 minute South, +and 129 degrees 8 minutes East. + +NORTH-WEST COAST. + +SAHUL BANK is but very imperfectly known, and its extent by no means so +large as is laid down upon the chart. In that interval, however, there +are probably many reefs, which have been occasionally seen. Captain +Heywood saw a dry part in latitude 11 degrees 35 minutes and longitude +124 degrees 10 minutes, and there are shoal soundings in crossing it on +the following parts, namely: + +COLUMN 1: SOUNDINGS OVER CORAL REEF IN FATHOMS. +COLUMN 2: LATITUDE. +COLUMN 3: LONGITUDE. + +12 : 11 degrees 21 minutes : 125 degrees 23 minutes. +16 : 11 degrees 10 minutes : 125 degrees 27 minutes. +12 : 11 degrees 7 minutes : 125 degrees 30 minutes. +15 : 10 degrees 57 minutes : 125 degrees 34 minutes. + +All of which are detached and separated by deep water. (See Horsburgh +volume 1 page 103.) + +CARTIER ISLAND, seen in 1800 by the ship Cartier, is a dry sand bank +surrounded by a shoal extending for four miles to the northward. It is in +12 degrees 29 minutes South, and 123 degrees 56 minutes East, by +chronometer. + +Captain Heywood in 1801 saw the following reefs. The centre of one in +latitude 12 degrees 48 minutes, and longitude 124 degrees 25 minutes; and +the other in 13 degrees 29 minutes, and 124 degrees 5 minutes. + +HIBERNIA SHOAL, seen by Mr. Samuel Ashmore, Commander of the ship +Hibernia, consists of two small sandbanks in the centre of a shoal, four +miles in extent, lying in an east and west direction. It is in latitude +11 degrees 56 minutes, and longitude 123 degrees 28 minutes, by +chronometers. + +Mr. Ashmore also saw another shoal in 1811, the particulars of which are +detailed in the following letter. + +"The north-east end of the shoal, fell in with on the 11th June, 1811, by +a good noon observation, is in 12 degrees 11 minutes South, longitude by +chronometer 122 degrees 58 minutes 30 seconds (allowing the south head of +Port Jackson to be in 151 degrees 25 minutes 25 seconds). To the westward +of the barrier of black rocks, that presented themselves to our view, +were several sandbanks, the highest of which, on the east end, appeared +to have some vegetation: the rocks in general were six or eight feet +above the water and the surf broke violently on the North-East and +South-East points in view. The shoal trends in a West by North direction +for six or seven miles," It is distinguished on the chart by the name of +ASHMORE'S SHOAL. + +SCOTT'S REEF (see Horsburgh volume 1 page 102) was discovered by Captain +Heywood, R.N., in 1811: the north-west end is in latitude 13 degrees 52 +1/2, and longitude 121 degrees 59 minutes; thence it extends South 16 +degrees East for eighteen or nineteen miles to the north-east point, in +latitude 14 degrees 1 minute, and longitude 122 degrees 16 minutes; the +south extent was not ascertained. It is ninety-seven miles due East from +the situation assigned to Dampier's Rocks. The Cartier also struck upon a +shoal hereabouts, and Captain Horsburgh seems to think that there is +little doubt of Scott's Reef being the same that Dampier saw, as well as +that on which the Cartier struck. + +ROWLEY'S SHOALS consist of three separate reefs, the westernmost is the +Imperieuse, the middle Clerke's, and the north-easternmost the Mermaid's. +The Imperieuse is ten miles in length from north to south, and its +greatest breadth five miles: it is surrounded by very deep water and near +the eastern edge, in latitude 17 degrees 35 minutes, and longitude 118 +degrees 51 minutes, are some dry rocks. Clerke's Shoal (south end in +latitude 17 degrees 28 minutes, longitude 119 degrees 18 minutes) extends +to the north-west, and probably joins the Minstrel's Shoal, which is +described below, and, if this is the case, trends North-North-West 1/2 +West for seventeen miles. The south end of Mermaid's Shoal is in 17 +degrees 12 minutes South, and 119 degrees 35 minutes East, and extends to +the northward for seven miles; but its termination in that direction was +not seen. The edges of all these reefs are steep to; and no bottom was +obtained with one hundred and eighty fathoms. Within the reefs, however, +there is a bank of soundings of the depth of from one hundred and seventy +to one hundred and twenty fathoms. (See Horsburgh volume 1 page 101.) + +MINSTREL'S SHOAL (see Horsburgh's Supp. page 52) its north-east end is in +17 degrees 14 minutes South, and 118 degrees 57 minutes East, or 5 +degrees 28 minutes East by chronometer, from the coast of New Holland in +latitude 23 degrees 10 minutes South. The longitude of that part of the +coast by my survey, is 113 degrees 42 minutes; this will make the +Minstrel's Shoal in 119 degrees 10 minutes, which agrees very well with +Clerke's Reef, the centre reef of Rowley's Shoals, of which it is +certainly the north end; so Captain Horsburgh also supposes. + +A ship called the LIVELY was wrecked on a coral reef in about 16 degrees +30 minutes South, and 119 degrees 35 minutes East. + +RITCHIE'S REEF, or the Greyhound's Shoal. The situation of this reef is +recorded by Captain Horsburgh (see Supp. page 38) to be in latitude 19 +degrees 58 minutes, and longitude 114 degrees 40 1/4 minutes; but, by a +letter published in the Sydney Gazette by Lieutenant Ritchie, R.N., the +commander, it would appear to be in 20 degrees 17 minutes 40 seconds, +longitude by lunars 114 degrees 46 minutes 6 seconds. + +ROCK OFF VAN DIEMEN'S LAND. + +The Russian ship RURICK, in 1822, saw a dry rock above water off the +south-east coast of Van Diemen's Land, in latitude 44 degrees, and +longitude 147 degrees 45 minutes. + +A rock was also seen by the ship LORD SIDMOUTH in 1819, in latitude 43 +degrees 48 minutes, and longitude 147 degrees 15 minutes. + +... + + +APPENDIX A. SECTION 8. + +DIRECTIONS FOR THE PASSAGE WITHIN THE REEFS THROUGH TORRES STRAIT. + +INNER ROUTE. + +The passage recommended by Captain Flinders for passing through Torres +Strait us by entering the reefs at Murray's Island; by which route a +two-days' passage will carry a ship past all danger: but, as the space +between Wreck Reef and Murray's Island is strewed with dangers, many of +which have been discovered since the publication of his charts, and of +which the greater number have only been recently seen, it cannot be +called a safe navigation. The dangers consist of low coral islands, +surrounded by extensive reefs, upon which in long and dark nights a +vessel is in momentary danger of striking; the result of which must be +the certain destruction of the vessel, and the probable loss of the crew. +The Inner Route was first pursued by Mr. Cripps in the brig Cyclops, +bound from Port Jackson to Bengal, in 1812. It was subsequently followed +by Lieutenant C. Jeffreys, R.N., in the command of the hired armed vessel +Kangaroo, on her passage from Port Jackson to Ceylon, in 1815.* This +officer drew a chart, with a track of his voyage up the coast; which, +considering the shortness of his time, and other circumstances that +prevented his obtaining the necessary data to lay down with accuracy so +intricate and dangerous a passage, does him very great credit; he filled +up the space between Endeavour River and Cape Direction, which Captain +Cook did not see; the only part that had previously been left a blank +upon the chart of New South Wales; his outline was found to be tolerably +correct, and my alterations have only been caused by better +opportunities, and by the greater detail of my operations. The general +feature of the coast has scarcely required correction; the principal +corrections have been in the number, size, and relative bearings of the +coral reefs and islands that front it. + +(*Footnote. Horsburgh's Indian Directory volume 2 page 514.) + +In describing this route, the whole of the bearings are magnetic; and the +courses are freed from the effect of tide or current, since they are only +temporary, and often of trifling importance.* + +(*Footnote. In following these directions, reference should be made to +the description of the coast contained in this Appendix.) + +DIRECTIONS. + +Having hauled round Breaksea Spit (see Flinders' chart sheet 3) in the +evening, it would perhaps be dangerous to steer on through the night; +after running, therefore, to the West-North-West for five or six leagues, +bring to until daylight: but, if the day is before you, the course from +the extremity of the spit is West-North-West 1/4 West for about a hundred +miles. You will then be about twenty miles from Cape Capricorn: on your +way to which you should pass about three miles within Lady Elliot's +Island, and also within the southernmost islet of Bunker's Group, by +which you will see how the current has affected your course, and you can +act accordingly: if it has set you to the northward, you may pass on +either side of or through the islands without danger. After making Cape +Capricorn, you may leave it at a convenient distance, and, directing your +course about North West by North, pass either within or without the +Peaked and Flat Islands off Port Bowen; then, steering for the Percy +Group, pass between the 2nd and 3rd Northumberland Islands. + +After passing the latter, avoid a low dangerous rock, that bears from it +North 8 degrees East five miles and three-quarters, and from 1st Peak +South 85 degrees West. To avoid this in the night, pass close round +Number 3, when, its situation being known, you can easily avoid it. + +The channel is safe on either side of the Percy Isles, but that to the +westward of them, being better known, is therefore recommended as the +safest. Then steer either over the Mermaid's or Bathurst's tracks, which +will carry a ship round the projections of the coast as far as Cape +Grafton, as far as which, if the weather is fine, there can be no danger +of proceeding through the night; but it must be recollected, that at Cape +Grafton the coral reefs approach the coast, and, consequently, great care +must be used. + +On reaching Fitzroy Island, round it at a mile off shore, and, when its +north end bears West, steer North-West 1/2 North for thirty-five miles; +you will then be a league to the South-East of a group of low isles; if +it should be night when you pass them, come no nearer to them than +fourteen fathoms. In steering this course, great care should be taken, +not to go too much to the eastward to avoid the reef which the Tamar saw. +(See above.) + +If the moon is up the islets will be readily distinguished, but otherwise +it would be more prudent to wait for daylight. This course will carry a +ship over two of my tracks, and the soundings will be in seventeen, +eighteen, and nineteen fathoms. From the low isles direct your course for +the Hope Islands, which bear from the former North 18 degrees West +thirty-eight miles, but the course had better be within that line, to +avoid some reefs in latitude 15 degrees 51 minutes: pass, therefore, +within five miles of Cape Tribulation, when a direct course may be +steered either to the eastward or westward of the Hope Isles. The better +route will be within the western Hope, and along its reef at the distance +of three-quarters of a mile, by which you will avoid reef a. When you are +abreast of its north end, steer North by West westerly for twenty-eight +miles; this will carry you to Cape Bedford which you may round at from +one to three or four miles. You will see in your way, at three miles and +a half from the north end of the Hope Reef, reef b; and at fifteen miles +from it you will be abreast of e; and five miles farther on you will pass +Captain Cook's Turtle Reef, which has a dry sand at its north end. These +three reefs will be to the eastward of your course. + +The current sets to the North-West, so that your course must be directed +accordingly. In coasting along the shore, you will discern the summits +which are marked on the chart. The high conical hill, on the south side +of the entrance of Endeavour River, is Mount Cook, bearings of which, +crossed with the summit of Cape Bedford, or any of the particularized +summits or points will give the vessel's place, by which the effects of +the current, which is generally very slight, will be perceived: on one +occasion we found a current in the space between the Endeavour Reef and +Turtle Reef of two miles an hour to the North-West. + +Being off Cape Bedford, and steering to the North 1/2 West, you will see +the Three Isles ahead: steer between them and the low wooded island; and +direct your course round Cape Flattery and Point Lookout, to anchor under +the Turtle Group, unless you have time before dark to reach the islands +4, 5, or 6, of Howick's Group. Under which anchorage may be found. In +rounding Point Lookout, do not come within two miles and a half of it, to +avoid a reef that is on Captain Cook's chart, but which we did not see; +it lies a mile and a half north from the peaked hill at the extremity of +the point. You may pass without the Turtle Group, or you will find +anchorage under Lizard Island, but this is not recommended, both because +the wind is generally fresher as you increase your distance from the +shore, and because it lengthens the distance. + +From the Turtle Group steer North West by West 1/2 West until you see the +hillock at the south-east end of Number 1 of Howick's Group: then pass +inside and within a mile of 2 and 3, and between islet 4 and Cole's +Islands, and inshore of 6 and the dry sands s, t, and u. The Mermaid's +track will direct the course to Cape Melville. If the day is late when +abreast of 6, of Howick's Group, anchorage had better be secured under +it, as there is none to be recommended between it and Cape Flinders. + +Upon rounding Cape Melville, the Islands of Flinders' Group will be seen; +and as soon as you have passed round the stony reef that projects off the +Cape (the extremity of which bears from it by compass North West by +North, and from Pipon's Island South-West by West 1/4 West nearly) in +doing which steer within the reef that surrounds Pipon Island, direct the +course for the extremity of the islands, which is Cape Flinders; the +course and distance being West 3/4 South nearly thirteen miles: on this a +low woody island will be left on the starboard hand. + +His Majesty's sloop Satellite, in 1822, grounded upon a small reef, +bearing North by East (easterly) from the extremity of the cape, distant +about two miles; but, as a ship may pass within a stone's throw of the +cape, this danger may be easily avoided. The best anchorage here is under +the flat-topped hill, at a third of a mile from the shore, in ten +fathoms, muddy bottom. In hauling round the cape, avoid a shoal which +extends for a short distance from the shore on its western side. + +If the day is not far advanced, and you have time to run fifteen miles +further, the ship may proceed to the reef d; but, indeed, anchorage may +be obtained under any of the reefs or islets between this part and Cape +Grenville, for the bottom is universally of mud; and by anchoring with +the body of a reef, bearing South-East, the vessel is sufficiently +sheltered from the sea, which is generally smooth. + +On leaving Cape Flinders, steer West 3/4 North for about twenty-three +miles, leaving the reefs c and g to seaward, and d, e, and f to the +southward, of the course; then haul up about North-West 3/4 North, and +steer within the reef l and Pelican Island, and to seaward of the +Claremont Islands 1 and 2, which are low and woody. + +When abreast of 2, the south-west end of the reef m will be seen, which +should be passed at from one to two miles, and the course North by West +1/4 West will carry you to 4 and 5, which you may pass on either side of, +the channel between them being quite safe. If you take the latter course, +steer north, within the reef o, and then close within 6, to avoid the low +rock that covers with the tide. Having passed this rock, steer for 7, and +pass within one mile of it, to avoid the shoals that extend off Cape +Sidmouth. Hence the course is North-North-West towards Night Island; and, +when abreast of it, steer North 1/2 West until near the covered shoal v, +when the course may be directed within Sherrard's Islets and reef 10 (on +which there is a sandy islet covered with some bushes) and then steer +round Cape Direction. + +Hence the course North-North-West 1/4 West will carry you within the +reefs y, z, a, b, and c, and without the rocky islet that lies off +Restoration Island: continuing this course you will, at about five miles +beyond the cape, see the long reef e; steer North-West parallel with its +edge, which extends until you are abreast of Fair Cape, where it +terminates with a very narrow point. Then steer North-West 1/2 North, and +pass between the two easternmost Piper's Islands and the reefs h, i, and +k; then pass on either side of l and m, inshore of Haggerston's Island, +and round the outermost of Sir Everard Home's Group. + +The anchorages between Cape Flinders and this are so numerous as not to +require particular mention: the north-west end of every reef will afford +shelter; but the anchor should not be dropped too near, because the tide +sweeps round the edge with greater strength than it does at half a mile +off, within which distance the bottom is generally deeper. If the day is +advanced and the breeze fresh, Night Island should not be passed: because +the anchorages between it and Piper's Islands are rather exposed; and a +vessel getting underweigh from Night Island at daylight will easily reach +Piper's Islands, or Margaret Bay, before dark. + +The latter bay is round Cape Grenville; it is fronted by Sunday Island, +which affords good shelter from the wind: it is a safe place to stop at. + +In passing round Sir Everard Home's Islands, steer wide from them, to +avoid the tide drifting you towards the group, for it sets to the +North-West across the course. The course is then about North-West 1/4 +West to the Bird Isles, and thence, to the reef v, about North West by +North; the better and more direct plan is to pass within v and w (there +is, however, a safe channel between them) and when abreast of the west +end of the latter, the course to Cairncross Island is North by West 1/2 +West, and the distance about eighteen miles. + +There not being any very good anchorage between this and Cape York, it +would be perhaps better to anchor under it for the night, in about +fourteen or fifteen fathoms, mud, the island bearing South-East, but not +nearer than half a mile, because, within that distance, the bottom is +rocky. + +Leaving Cairncross Island, steer North-North-West 1/4 West until Escape +River is abreast of you, when look out for reef x: steer within it about +North West by North, which will take you inside the covered reef z. Your +course then must be round the Albany Islands, and hence North West by +North for a, which is a rocky islet that may be seen from abreast the +Albany Isles. + +The passage through the Possession Isles and Endeavour Strait is not to +be recommended for a large ship, on account of the shoal water that +extends from Wallis' Isles towards Shoal Cape; but the route round the +north end of Wednesday and Hammond's Islands is preferable. Upon passing +reef a, Wednesday Island will be seen: in steering towards it, avoid +standing too close to the rocky islet that is abreast of the strait +between it and Horned Hill, as some sunken rocks stretch off it for about +a quarter of a mile: steer round the north point of Wednesday Island at +half a mile, and then West by South 1/4 South which will carry you to the +northward of the rock off Hammond's Island. Having passed this rock, +steer South-West by West; and when abreast of the south-west end of +Hammond's Island, haul towards a reef, to the southward of the course, on +which you will see some dry rocks, which you may pass within half a mile +of: you will then avoid reef d, which is generally, if not always, +covered: the fairway of this channel is seven and eight fathoms deep. + +When the summit of Good's Island bears South-West by West, steer West by +South southerly for Booby Island, by which you will avoid Larpent's bank, +and when you have passed it, you are clear of the strait. Hence you may +steer West 3/4 South through the night, on which course you will very +gradually deepen your water. + +... + + +APPENDIX A. SECTION 9. + +TABLE: DIP OF THE MAGNETIC NEEDLE, OBSERVED DURING THE MERMAID'S AND +BATHURST'S VOYAGES UPON THE COAST OF AUSTRALIA. + +COLUMN 1: DATE. +COLUMN 2: PLACE. +COLUMN 3: LATITUDE SOUTH IN DEGREES MINUTES SECONDS. +COLUMN 4: LONGITUDE EAST IN DEGREES MINUTES SECONDS. +COLUMN 5: DIP OF THE NEEDLE IN DEGREES MINUTES SECONDS. +COLUMN 6: NORTH OR SOUTH END. +COLUMN 7: VARIATION IN DEGREES MINUTES SECONDS. +COLUMN 8: REMARKS. + +1817. October 9, November 28 : Port Jackson, East Coast : 33 51 : 151 15 +: 62 1 30 : South : 8 42 East : Observed on shore, on the north side of +Sydney Cove. + +1819. January : Hobart Town, Van Diemen's Land : 42 54 : 147 27 : 70 7 00 +: South : 9 00 East : Observed on shore. + +June 16 : Cleveland Bay, East Coast : 19 10 : 146 56 : 44 6 40 : South : +5 12 1/2 East : Two observations made at the extremity of the cape. + +July : Endeavour River, East Coast : 15 27 : 145 11 : 38 00 00 : South : +5 27 East : Taken at the tent. + +1818. April : Goulburn Island, North Coast : 11 38 : 133 20 : 27 32 30 : +South : 2 0 East : Taken on Bottle Rock, in South-west Bay. + +1820. October : Careening Bay, North-west Coast : 15 6 1/4 : 125 0 : 38 +44 36 : South : 0 43 1/2 West : Taken at the tent. + +Dip of the Needle at Port Louis, Simon's Bay, and various parts of the +Atlantic Ocean, observed upon the Bathurst's return to England. + +1821. November : Port Louis, Mauritius : 20 10 : 57 29 East : 51 42 : +South : 12 00 West : On shore. + +1823. February : Simon's Bay, Cape of Good Hope : 34 11 2/3 : 18 28 1/2 : +48 23 1/2 : - : 28 to 30 : On shore. + +February 9 : False Bay 5 minutes East-South-East of Simon's Bay : - : - : +48 48 : - : 28 to 30 : On the binnacle. + +February 14 : At Sea : 27 18 : 8 50 : 37 57 1/2 : - : 24 00 : On the +binnacle. + +February 16 : At Sea : 23 47 : 4 2 : 30 10 : - : 24 00 : This observation +is correct to 3/4 degree. + +The situation for the above observation bears East 5 degrees North from +the place where the same dip was observed by M. Perouse on the Coast of +Brazil. + +February 20 : At Sea : 17 7 : 4 57 West : 15 42 1/2 : - : 21 9 : Correct +to 1/2 degree. + +The above situation bears East 16 1/2 degrees North from the place where +Commodore Baudin observed the dip of 15 degrees; and East 14 degrees +North from the observation of 14 degrees by M. Perouse. + +February 24 : At Sea, four leagues North-North-West from St. Helena : - : +- : 11 45 : - : 20 35 : Correct to 1/2 degree. + +February 26 : At Sea : 14 25 : 7 53 : 7 56 1/4 : - : 18 54 : Correct to +1/2 degree. + +1823. February 27 : At Sea : 12 42 South : 9 21 West : 3 6 3/4 : South : +18 28 West : -. + +Upon placing the instrument with the end marked 180 degrees in the +direction of North 45 degrees East the needle dipped 4 30. + +Upon placing the instrument with the end marked 180 degrees in the +direction of North 67 East the needle dipped 11 30. + +Upon placing the instrument with the end marked 180 degrees in the +direction of North 78 East the needle dipped 14 30. + +Upon placing the instrument with the end marked 180 degrees in the +direction of North 85 East the needle dipped 18 15. + +Upon placing the instrument with the end marked 180 degrees in the +direction of North 88 East the needle dipped 20 0. + +Upon placing the instrument with the end marked 180 degrees in the +direction of North 91 East the needle dipped 25 0. + +Upon placing the instrument with the end marked 180 degrees in the +direction of North 92 1/2 East it was vertical. + +Upon placing the instrument with the end marked 180 degrees in the +direction of North 95 East the needle shifted on the opposite side to 65 +0. + +Upon placing the instrument with the end marked 180 degrees in the +direction of South 45 East the needle shifted on the opposite side to 3 +40. + +Upon placing the instrument with the end marked 180 degrees in the +direction of South 45 West the needle shifted on the opposite side to 3 +0. + +Upon placing the instrument with the end marked 180 degrees in the +direction North 45 West the needle shifted on the opposite side to 5 30. + +The mean of the observation, on placing either end North and South was 3 +6 3/4 degrees. + +The mean of the observation, on placing either end North-East and +South-West was 3 45. + +The mean of the observation, on placing either end South-East and +North-West was 4 35. + +1823. February 28 : At Sea : 11 44 South : 10 12 West : 1 25 : South : 17 +to 18 West : -. + +Upon placing the instrument in the direction of North 45 East the needle +dipped 2 10. + +Upon placing the instrument in the direction of North 60 East the needle +dipped 2 50. + +Upon placing the instrument in the direction of North 70 East the needle +dipped 4 25. + +Upon placing the instrument in the direction of North 80 East the needle +dipped 5 15. + +Upon placing the instrument in the direction of North 90 East the needle +dipped 8 15. + +Upon placing the instrument in the direction of North 92 East the needle +dipped 14 00. + +Upon placing the instrument in the direction of South 60 East the needle +shifted. + +Upon placing the instrument in the direction of South 45 East the needle +shifted 2 20. + +Upon placing the instrument in the direction of South 45 West the needle +shifted 1 40. + +Upon placing the instrument in the direction of North 45 West the needle +shifted 1 00. + +Mean when placed at North-East and North-East 1 55. + +Mean when placed at North-West and South-East 1 40. + +February 28 : At Sea : 11 30 1/2 : 10 20 : 0 45 : South : 17 to 18 West : +-. + +February 28 : At Sea : 11 5 1/2 : 10 34 : 0 15 : North : 17 to 18 West : +-. + +From the above observations, it would appear that the Magnetic Equator +crosses the meridian of 10 1/2 degrees West, in 11 degrees 12 minutes +South latitude. At the latter observation--when the direction of the +instrument was changing, the needle remained quite stationary, the south +end of the needle pointing to the north, until the change was effected; +it remained in this position for two seconds of time, and then suddenly +shifted to the opposite, its proper, direction; its movements were, +however, very sluggish and irregular in its shifting end for end. The day +was so rainy that no observation could be made for the variation of the +compass. + +March 1 : At Sea : 10 1 South : 11 31 West : 3 32 1/2 : North : 17 44 +West : -. + +March 2 : At Sea : 8 21 South : 12 57 : 6 50 : North : 18 00 : -. + +March 5 : At Sea : 7 3 South : 15 42 : 11 22 1/2 : North : 16 5 : -. + +March 7 : At Sea : 4 17 South : 18 50 : 19 15 : North : 13 18 : -. + +March 9 : At Sea : 0 0 1/3 South : 22 6 1/4 : 27 45 : North : 12 51 : -. + +March 24 : At Sea : 17 4 North : 35 40 : 54 23 3/4 : North : 11 3 : +Correct to 3/4 degree. + +March 31 : At Sea : 29 33 North : 38 35 : 65 25 : North : 10 59 : Correct +to 1 degree. + +... + + +APPENDIX A. SECTION 10. + +UPON THE GEOGRAPHICAL POSITIONS OF THE FIXED POINTS OF THE SURVEY. + +The observations for determining the longitudes of the various parts of +the coast were taken with a circle and a sextant by Troughton: besides +these valuable instruments we had three chronometers of Arnold's make, +namely, 413 (box) 2054 (pocket) and 394 (pocket); of which the two first +were supplied by the Admiralty. At the end of the fourth year, in +consequence of 394 having stopped, a fourth chronometer, made by +Parkinson and Frodsham (Number 287 box) was purchased in the colony, and +proved to be a most excellent watch. + +The situations of the following places, which were either fixed by us or +adapted from other authorities, served as the basis of the chronometrical +determination of the longitudes of the intermediate parts. + +The flagstaff of FORT MACQUARIE on the north-east head of Sydney Cove in +PORT JACKSON (the Cattle Point of Flinders, and otherwise Bennelong +Point) is in latitude 33 degrees 51 minutes 28 seconds South and +longitude 151 degrees 15 minutes 26 East, being, according to the ensuing +table, the mean of all the observations that have been taken. + +Latitude (in degrees minutes seconds) observed by: + +Captain Flinders, in 1795 and 1802: 33 51 45.6. +De Freycinet in 1802: 33 51 21. +King (reduced) 1817: 33 51 18. +Sir T. Brisbane (reduced) 1822: 33 51 30. + +Mean Latitude of Fort Macquarie 33 51 28. + +Longitude (in degrees minutes seconds) observed by: + +Captain Cook, reduced from his observations at Botany Bay, 1770: 151 11 +32. +Captain Hunter, 1788: 151 19 43. +Lieutenant Dawes 1788: 151 18 50. +Lieutenant Bradley: 151 20 38. +Malespina: 151 17 53. +Messrs. Broughton and Crosley, 1795: 151 9 3. +Captain Flinders, 1795-6: 151 17 12. +Ditto 1802: 151 11 49. +Captain De Freycinet, 1802: 151 8 32. +M. D'Espinosa by an eclipse of sun and occultation of Jupiter 1st and 2nd +Satellites, 1793: 151 12 45. +Governor Bligh, 1806, eclipse of sun: 151 17 49. +Captain P.P. King, 1817, eclipse of sun, calculated by Mr. Rumker: 151 17 +29. +Sir Thomas Brisbane, 1822 (the mean of six eclipses places his +observatory in 151 degrees 15 minutes 20 seconds): 151 15 32. +Mr. Rumker, eclipse of sun at Parramatta, reduced to Fort Macquarie: 151 +17 30. + +Mean Longitude of Fort Macquarie 151 15 26. + +PERCY ISLAND (Number 2). The longitude of the south-west end of this +island is by Captain Flinders' observation in 150 degrees 13 minutes +East. + +ENDEAVOUR RIVER. The observatory, which was placed within a few yards of +the shore on the south side of the entrance (the summit of the highest +bush near the extremity of the opposite sandy beach, bearing by compass +West 3 degrees 40 minutes South) was found to be situated in latitude 15 +degrees 27 minutes 4 seconds, and longitude 145 degrees 10 minutes 49 +seconds. (See note, Appendix A.) + +GOULBURN ISLANDS. The observations were taken upon Bottle Rock, the +largest of two rocky islets at the north end of South-west Bay; but the +results were so doubtful and unsatisfactory, that the longitude +determined by the chronometers was preferred. The following are the +observations that were taken to fix its situation, namely: + +Latitude by fourteen meridional altitudes of the sun l. l. on the +sea-horizon, taken in various parts of the bay, and reduced by survey to +Bottle Rock 11 37 24. + +The difference of longitude between Bottle Rock and Cassini Island by +chronometers, taken in: + +1819: 7 40 47. +1820: 7 40 00. +1821: 7 38 28. + +Mean difference between Cassini Island and Bottle Rock: 7 39 45. + +Longitude of Cassini Island from Careening Bay, by survey: 125 38 46. + +Longitude of Bottle Rock, by chronometer, from Cassini Island: 133 18 31. + +The mean of the results of the lunar distances that were taken during the +years 1818 and 1819, gave for the longitude of the rock 133 degrees 31 +minutes 58 seconds East. On our last voyage the mean of the Bathurst's +and Dick's watches made it 133 degrees 19 minutes 40 seconds, which was +finally adapted, since it accorded better with the chronometrical +difference between its meridian and that of Cassini Island. I have never +been able to account for this extraordinary disagreement between the +results of the lunar distances and the chronometers, since the former +were taken with the sun on both sides of the moon, and seemed to be very +good. + +CAREENING BAY. This place was fixed by a series of observations, in +latitude 15 degrees 6 minutes 18 seconds South, and 125 degrees 0 minutes +46 seconds East. (See Appendix A. in a note.) + +KING GEORGE THE THIRD'S SOUND. The longitude of this place was adapted +from the observations and survey of Captain Flinders, as follows; namely: + +The tent on the east shore of the entrance of Oyster Harbour. Latitude 35 +degrees 0 minutes 17 seconds, and longitude 117 degrees 56 minutes 22 +seconds. + +The sandy beach under the low part of the land of Bald Head (the first +sandy bay round the head) is in latitude 35 degrees 6 minutes, and +longitude 117 degrees 58 minutes 6 seconds. + +COEPANG, in the Island of Timor. The situation of the flag-staff of FORT +CONCORDIA, where our chronometers were rated, is in latitude 10 degrees 9 +minutes 6 seconds, and longitude 123 degrees 35 minutes 46 seconds, +according to the observations of Captain Flinders. + +... + + +APPENDIX B. + +CONTAINING A LIST AND DESCRIPTION OF THE SUBJECTS OF NATURAL HISTORY +COLLECTED DURING CAPTAIN KING'S SURVEY OF THE INTERTROPICAL AND WESTERN +COASTS OF AUSTRALIA. + +Previously to the establishment of the British Colony at Port Jackson, in +the year 1787, the shores of this extensive continent had been visited by +very few navigators who have recorded any account of the productions of +its Animal Kingdom. The first authentic report that we have, is that of +Vlaming, who is celebrated as the first discoverer of that rara avis, the +black swan: next to him followed Dampier, who has handed down to us in +his intelligent, although quaint, style, the account of several of the +productions of the North-western and Western Coasts; but the harvest was +reserved for Banks and Solander, the companions of Cook, whose names are +so well and widely known in the fields of science. These distinguished +naturalists were the first collectors upon the Coast of New South Wales; +and although their labours were not confined to any particular branch of +Natural History, yet Botany appeared to be their chief object, of which +the Banksian Herbarium yields ample proof. + +Among the collectors of Natural History, in the neighbourhood of the +colony, since the year 1787, may be recorded the names of White, +Paterson, Collins, Brown, Caley, Lewin, Humphreys, and Jamison; and in +this interval the coasts have been visited by two English and two French +expeditions of discovery; namely, those commanded by Admiral +D'Entrecasteaux, Captains Vancouver and Flinders, and Commodore Baudin. +The first merely touched upon the south coast at the Recherche's +Archipelago, and on the south shores of Van Diemen's Land; and the second +only at King George the Third's Sound, near the South-west Cape; but +these opportunities were sufficient to celebrate the names of +Labillardiere and Menzies as Australian Botanists, notwithstanding they +have been since eclipsed by the more extensive discoveries of Mr. Brown, +whose collections of Natural History upon the voyage of Captain Flinders, +and his pre-eminent qualifications, have justly raised him to the +pinnacle of botanical science upon which he is so firmly and deservedly +elevated. + +Peron and Lesueur, in Baudin's voyage, extended their inquiries chiefly +among the branches of zoological research; but in that expedition each +department of Natural History had its separate collector, and the names +of Leschenault de la Tour, Riedle, Depuch, and Bailly, will not be +forgotten. Unfortunately, the Natural History of this voyage has never +yet been given to the world, the death of M. Peron having put a stop to +its publication; a few of the subjects, however, have been taken up by +MM. Lacepede and Cuvier, and other French naturalists, in the form of +monographs, in their various scientific journals; but the greater part is +yet untouched, probably from the want of the valuable information which +died with its collector. M. Peron, in his historical account of that +expedition, notices a few subjects of zoology that were collected by him, +but in so vague a manner, that it is with very great doubt that the +specimens which we procured, and suspect to be his discoveries, can be +compared with his descriptions. + +Of the Natural History collections of Captain Flinders and Mr. Brown, no +account has been published, excepting the valuable botanical works of the +latter gentleman. + +With respect to the collection which has been formed upon this +expedition, it is to be regretted that the gleanings of the Animal +Kingdom, particularly of quadrupeds and birds, should have been so +trifling in number; and that the students of Natural History should have +suffered disappointment in what might, at first view, be fairly +considered to have arisen from neglect and careless attention to the +subject; but as the principal, and almost the only, object of the voyage +was the survey of the coast, for which purpose a small vessel was justly +considered the most advantageous, accommodation for a zoological +collection was out of the question. The very few specimens that are now +offered to the world were procured as leisure and opportunity offered; +but many interesting and extremely curious subjects were in fact obliged +to be left behind from want of room, and from our not possessing +apparatus for collecting and preserving them. + +A botanical collector for the Royal Garden, Mr. Allan Cunningham, was +attached to the expedition; and this gentleman did not fail to make a +very extensive and valuable collection in his department, the whole of +which is preserved at Kew. + +In making out the Appendix, every species brought home (excepting three +or four fishes) has been mentioned, for the sake of furnishing materials +for the students of Geographical Zoology. The distribution of animals is +a branch of study that has been very much neglected, which is to be +lamented, as it appears likely to offer a very great assistance to the +systematic Physiologist; and for this reason the species found at the +Isle of France have been added to the list. + +For the catalogue and descriptions of the quadrupeds, reptiles, and +shells, I am under obligation to Mr. J.E. Gray, of the British Museum. +Mr. Vigors has kindly assisted me with the use of his collection, and his +valuable advice with respect to the few specimens of birds that were +preserved; and Mr. W.S. MacLeay has furnished me with a very valuable +description of my entomological collection. I am also indebted to Mr. +Cunningham for his remarks upon the botany of the country; to Mr. Brown, +for his description of a new tree from King George the Third's Sound; and +lastly to Dr. Fitton, for his kindness in drawing up for me a very +interesting geological notice from the specimens that have been presented +to the Geological Society of London, of which he is one of the most +active and scientific members. + +... + +VERTEBRATA. + +MAMMALIA. + +BY JOHN EDWARD GRAY, ESQUIRE, M.G.S., ETC. + +1. Pteropus edwardsii, Desm. Mamm. 109. +Madagascar Bat, Edwards' Birds, t. 108. +Vespertilio vampyrus, Lin. Syst. Nat. 1 45. +Flying Fox, Colonists of Port Jackson. + +This specimen, caught at Point Cunningham on the North-west Coast, +appears to agree with Edwards' figure, and with the specimen preserved in +the British Museum. There is also one in the collection of the Linnean +Society from Port Jackson. Large flights of these animals were observed +at Port Keats and in Cambridge Gulf, on the North-west Coast. This bat +seems also to be very abundant on the Friendly Islands, for Forster +describes having seen five hundred hanging upon one casuarina tree. +Forster, page 187. + +2. Canis australiae. +Canis familiaris australasiae, Desmarest, Mamm. 191. +Australasian Dog, or Dingo, Shaw's Zool. 1 278, t. 76. + +This animal is common in the neighbourhood of Port Jackson, and dogs, to +all appearance of the same species, are found on all parts of the coast. +Captain King presented a living specimen to Sir Everard Home, Bart., who +sent it to Exeter Change. + +In considering this species as distinct from the common dog, I am +supported by the opinion of Mr. William MacLeay*. (See Linnean +Transactions 13.) + +(*Footnote. No such opinon has been expressed by Mr. W. S. Macleay in the +place alluded to.--P.P.K. [added in "errata"]) + +Captain King informs me that these dogs never bark, in which particular +they agree with the Linnean account of the American dog; that, in their +appearance and cunning disposition, they resemble the fox; and although +occasionally domesticated in New South Wales, they never lose the sly +habits peculiar to their breed, nor can be prevented from killing poultry +or biting sheep. + +This dog, however, seems to be quite a distinct species from that found +in the South Sea Islands, which Forster describes as being "of a singular +race: they mostly resemble the common cur, but have prodigious large +heads, remarkably little eyes, prick ears, long hair, and a short bushy +tail. They are chiefly fed with fruit at the Society Isles; but in the +Low Isles and New Zealand, where they are the only domestic animals, they +live upon fish. They are exceedingly stupid, and seldom or NEVER BARK, +only howl now and then." Forster's Observations, page 189. + +3. Otaria cinerea, Peron et Lesueur. Voyage aux Terres Austral. ij. 75. + +The head of a species, agreeing with the short description of Peron, was +brought home by the expedition, but that it is the one intended by these +authors, there is great room to doubt. I am informed that specimens of +Peron's animal are in the Paris Museum, but Desmarest and Frederic +Cuvier, who have both lately written upon seals, have only copied the +very short specific character given by Peron. The head of our specimen is +gray, covered with rather short, rigid, hairs, and without any woolly +fur. The ears are short, conical. + +It is very distinct from the Otaria Falklandica of Desmarest (the Phoca +falklandica* of Shaw) by the want of the woolly substance under the hair +(called fur by the seal-fishers) and by the length of the ear, which in +the latter species, described by Shaw, is long and awl-shaped. + +(*Footnote. The specimen in the Museum, which I take for this species, +was brought by Captain Peake from New South Shetland: it differs from +Pennant's, and consequently from all succeeding descriptions that are +taken from him, in having five instead of four claws and toes to the hind +foot.) + +Captain King in his manuscript observes, that this seal is found at +Rottnest Island on the West Coast, and at King George the Third's Sound. +It appeared also to be the same species that frequents Shark's Bay; and, +if it is M. Peron's Otaria cinerea, it is also found as far to the +eastward as Kangaroo Island. + +The head is deposited in the Linnean Society's collection. + +4. Petaurista sciurea, Desm. N. Dict. H.N. 25 403. +Didelphis sciurea, Shaw's Zool. 1 t. 113. +Sugar Squirrel, Colonists of Port Jackson. + +A well preserved natural skeleton of this animal was brought home and +deposited in the British Museum. + +5. Acrobata pygmaea, Desm. Mamm. 270. +Didelphis pygmaea, Shaw's Gen. Zool. 1 t. 114. +Phalangista pygmaea, Geoffr. manuscripts. +Petaurus pygmaeus, Desm. N. Dict. H.N. 25 405. +Opossum Mouse, Colonists at Port Jackson. + +This little animal, the smallest and most beautiful of the opossum tribe, +is exceedingly numerous in the vicinity of Port Jackson. It was first +described by Dr. Shaw in his Zoology of New Holland. There are several +specimens in the Linnean Society's collection. The above is placed in the +British Museum. + +6. Delphinorhynchus pernettensis ? +Delphinus pernettensis, Blainville. +Delphinus delphis, var. Bonnaterre, Ency. Cetol. 21. +Dauphin, Pernetty, Voyage aux Isles Malouines, 99. t. 2. f. 1. + +A head, apparently belonging to this species, was brought home and +deposited in the collection of the British Museum. This animal is very +common upon the northern coasts of New Holland. + +Captain King, in his manuscript, remarks, that the coasts of New South +Wales, and the north-western side of New Holland, abound in cetaceous +animals. Upon the North-east Coast, within the reefs, the sea is crowded +with Balaena physalis, Linn., or fin-backed whales, as they are called by +the whalers, who pay little attention to them, on account of the danger +of approaching them. His boats were sometimes placed in critical +situations from these animals suddenly rising to the surface of the water +close to them, and lashing the sea with their tremendous fins, and their +occasionally leaping out of the water, and falling down with a crushing +weight. Their colour is generally of a cinereous hue, but a few were +noticed that were variegated black and white. The whales of the +North-west Coast appeared to be of the same species, but of a darker +colour. At one of the anchorages, near Cape Leveque (volume 2 page 91) +the brig was for a whole night surrounded by these enormous fish, and the +crew in momentary dread of their falling on board, the consequence of +which would have been very disastrous. The noise of their fall in the +water, on a calm night, was as loud as the report of a cannon. + +... + +AVES. + +THIS COLLECTION HAS BEEN PRESENTED TO THE LINNEAN SOCIETY, IN WHOSE +CABINETS THEY ARE NUMBERED ACCORDING TO THE ORDER IN WHICH THEY ARE HERE +INSERTED. + +1. Halcyon sacra. Swainson. +Alcedo sacra, Ind. Orn. 1 250. +Sacred Kingfisher, Latham, 4 25. + +This bird was taken at sea, in the neighbourhood of Cambridge Gulf, on +the North-west Coast, having probably been blown off by a strong land +wind. + +2. Barita tibicen. Cuvier. +Coracias tibicen, Ind. Orn. sup. 27. +Piping roller, Latham, 3 86. + +3. Barita varia. Cuvier. +Coracias varia, Ind. Orn. 1 173. +Pied roller, Latham, 3 86. + +This appears to be a young specimen. + +4. Centropus phasianus. Illiger. +Cuculus phasianus, Ind. Orn. Sup. 30. +Polophilus phasianus, Leach, Zool. Misc. plate 46. +Pheasant Cuckoo, Latham, 3 240. + +This bird is found upon all parts of the coast of New South Wales north +of Port Jackson, as well as upon the eastern part of the North-west +Coast. Its habitat in Australia is known to extend as wide as twenty-four +degrees of latitude, and twenty-six degrees of longitude. This specimen +was taken at Endeavour River, on the East Coast. There is also another +specimen of this bird in the Linnean Society's collection, that was taken +in the neighbourhood of Port Jackson. + +5. Meliphaga corniculata. Lewin. +Merops corniculata, Ind. Orn. 1 276. +Knob-fronted Honey-eater, Latham, 4 161. + +This bird is found upon the whole extent of the Eastern Coast. + +The next bird in the collection has been arranged by Dr. Latham in the +Linnean genus Gracula, but appears to me to agree in no respect with that +genus, as originally characterized by Linnaeus, much less with it as it +has been modified by modern ornithologists. Whether we consider, +according to M. Cuvier,* that the type of Gracula is the Paradisea +tristis, Linn., or, according to M. Temminck, that it is the Gracula +religiosa, Linn.,** in which latter opinion I feel rather disposed to +acquiesce, my bird agrees with the group in none of its essential +characters. In fact, the Linnean genus Oriolus is that to which it bears +the closest resemblance in its general appearance; particularly by a +similar disposition of its colours, and in the structure of its bill, +wings, and legs. I would at once refer it to that genus, but that I have +some reason to think that it belongs to the meliphagous birds, which are +so abundant in New Holland, and which have been observed to assume the +appearance of almost every group in the Insessores. Indeed, some birds of +that country, which have been decided to be +meliphagous, such as the Meliphaga cyanops, Lewin,*** [Graculine +Honey-eater, Lath. Syn. 4 166. sp. Ed. 2da.] and others allied to it, and +which differ little from the bird before us, have so many external +relations with the Orioles, that they probably would be found to arrange +themselves in the same family with them, were it not for the totally +different structure of their tongue, and the consequent difference in +their habits of life. Of the tongue, or mode of feeding of the bird at +present before us, I can myself say nothing decisively, not having had +leisure or opportunity, as I have already observed, of attending to the +more interesting details of Natural History during the expedition. But +general opinion places this bird among the groups that feed by suction; +and as I have a second species hitherto undescribed, which is closely +allied to it, I prefer forming both provisionally into a new genus, to +referring them to one, from which, although they agree with it in +external appearance, they may be totally remote, in consequence of their +internal anatomy and habits of life. The error at least will not be so +great, and may be easily retrieved. If the tongue of my birds be found to +accord with that of the Orioles, and not of the Honey-suckers, my group +of course must fall. + +(*Footnote. Regne Anim. 1 360.) + +(**Footnote. Analyse d'un Syst. Gen. d'Orn. page 52.) + +(***Footnote. Birds of New Holland plate 4.) + +Genus MIMETES.* + +(*Footnote. Mimetes, from Greek, imitator; [assuming the appearance of a +different group.]) + +Rostrum forte, subarcuatum, subcultratum, mandibulis utrisque apice +emarginatis; naribus basalibus, lateralibus, subovalibus, membrano partim +tectis. + +Lingua ad sugendum idonea ? + +Alae mediocres, rotundatae; remige 1ma brevissima; 2da et 6ta aequalibus; +3tia et 4ta fere aequalibus; longissimis; 5ta his paulo breviori: remigum +3tiae ad 6tam inclusam pogoniis externis in medio gradatim productis. + +Pedes subbreves; acrotarsiis scutellatis, scutis quinque; paratarsiis +integris. + +Cauda mediocris, fere aequalis. + +6. VIRIDIS. M. olivaceo-viridis, subtus albidus nigro guttatim striatus; +alis caudaque nigro-fuscis, illis albido-marginatis, hac apice albo. + +Gracula viridis. Lath. Ind. Orn. supp. page 28. + +Caput dorsumque olivaceo-viridia, plumis in medio longitudinaliter +fusco-lineatis. Tectrices superiores nigro-fuscae, ad apicem +albido-marginatae; inferiores albido nigroque variegatae. Remiges supra +fuscae, ad marginem externum apicemque leviter albido-notatae; subtus +pallide fuscae. Rectrices nigro-fuscae, subtus pallidiores, omnibus, +duabus mediis exceptis, apice albo-maculatis. Rostrum flavum. Pedes +nigri. Longitudo* corporis, 10 1/4; alae a carpo ad remigem 3tiam, 5 +7/10; caudae, 4 4/5; tarsi, 17/20; rostri ad frontem, 1 2/10, ad rictum, +1 3/10. + +(*Footnote. My measurement is in inches, and their component parts.) + +7. FLAVO-CINCTUS (n.s.) M. flavo-viridis, subtus pallidior, capite +dorsoque fusco-lineatis, alis caudaque nigris viridi flavoque variegatis. + +Capitis, gulae, dorsique plumae flavo-virides, in medio fusco-lineatae, +hujus lineis latioribus. Tectrices superiores nigrae, apice +flavo-marginatae, pteromatum margine flavo, alis clausis, fasciam +conspicuam formante; inferiores flavee, ad basin nigro-notatae. Remiges +supra nigrae, subtus fuscae; primariis anguste, secondariis late, apice +flavo-marginatis; pogoniis externis anguste, internis late, +flavo-marginatis. Rectrices supra nigrae flavo-viridi marginatae; subtus +pallidiores, omnibus, duabus mediis exceptis, macula flava lata apicali +notatis. Rostrum flavum, paulo altius, et magis carinatum, quam rostrum +M. viridis. Pedes nigri. + +The dimensions of this bird are nearly the same as those of M. viridis: +the bill only slightly differing in being somewhat higher, and more +carinated. The above descriptions will point out the specific differences +between the two birds, which are strongly apparent, not merely by the M. +flavo-cinctus being marked with yellow where the other bird is white, but +by the general distribution of the colours. In this respect, M. +flavo-cinctus resembles more closely the true Orioles, particularly in +the yellow fascia which is formed on the wing, when closed by the +junction of the apical spots on the quill coverts. + +8. Rallus philippensis. Lin. Syst. 1 263.7. Ind. Orn. 756. Bris. 5 163. +t. 14. f. 1. Plate Enl. 774. + +This bird was found upon Booby Island, near Cape York (the north +extremity of New South Wales) and agrees with a specimen already in the +Linnean Society's collection, that was taken in the neighbourhood of Port +Jackson. My bird, being of smaller size than most of those with which I +have compared it, is probably a young specimen. The rufous band on the +breast is narrower than is usual in the species, originating probably +from the same circumstance: otherwise it agrees precisely. + +Rallus philippensis was originally found in the Philippine Islands. It +appears to have a very extensive range, as it inhabits lands both in the +North and South Pacific, as well as in the Indian Ocean. + +9. Haematopus picatus (n.s.) + +H. ater; corpore subtus, fascia alarum, uropygio, caudaeque basi, albis; +remigibus primoribus totis nigris. + +Rostrum pedesque rubri; collum totum nigrum; tectrices inferiores +primores fuscae, secondariae albae, ad carpum et ad marginem exteriorem +nigro-variegatae; fascia alarum angusta; remiges primores supra nigrae, +subtus fuscae; uropygium album parce nigro variegatum. + +Longitudo corporis ab apice rostri ad apicem caadae, 22; alae a carpo ad +remigem primam, 11; rosri, 3 3/10; tarsi, 2 3/10; caudae, 5. + +Besides the common Oyster-Catcher of Europe, two species have lately been +added to the genus, namely, H. palliatus, Temm., a native of Brazil, and +H. niger, Cuv., from New Holland. The bird above described approaches +more closely to the European species (H. ostralegus) than to the other +two; but may be distinguished from it by the following characters, +namely: + +In its dimensions it exceeds the length of the European bird by six +inches, and the other parts in proportion; it wants the white collar +round the neck, which is a very distinctive character of H. ostralegus; +the fascia on the wing is confined to the extremity of the secondary +quill feathers alone, whilst in the other bird it extends to some of the +wing coverts: the primary quill feathers also are entirely black; whereas +the other has them partially variegated with white: the under wing +coverts also differ, the primary ones being fuscous, and the outer +secondary partially marked with black; whilst the whole of the under wing +coverts in H. ostralegus are white. The uropygium also, which in the +European bird is entirely white, is in our specimen partially variegated +with black. The marginal webs of the toes are much more dilated. The +whitish lunular mark under the eye of H. ostralegus, is entirely wanting +in our species, of which the margin of the eye seems to be of a reddish +tinge, of the same colour as the bill. This bird is common upon the +shores of the continent generally; it is called by the colonists the Red +Bill. + +10. Aptenodytes minor. Gmel. Syst. 1 558. +The Little Penguin, Latham. + +This bird is common in all parts of the Southern Ocean. The above +specimen was found at King George the Third's Sound near the south-west +extremity of New Holland. There are two specimens in the collection +marked 9 a, and 9 b. + +11. Tachypetes aquila. Vieillot. +Pelecanus Aquila, Gmel. Lin. 1 572. +Frigate Bird. + +This specimen was obtained at Ascension, and is common in all parts of +the Atlantic within or near the Tropic. + +12. Sterna fuliginosa. Gmel. Lin. 1 605. Ind. Orn. 2 804. +Egg Bird, Forst. Voyage 1 115. Cook, Voyage 1 66, 275. +Noddy, Dampier, 3 pt. 1 99., table page 85. figure 5. Hawkesworth's Coll. +of Voyages, 3 652. +Sooty Tern, Gen. Syn. 6 352. Arc. Zool. 2 Number 447. + +There are two specimens of this bird in the collection, marked 12 a, and +12 b. + +13. Sterna pelecanoides (n.s.) +S. alba; capitis vertice nigro albo-variegato; dorso, alis, caudaque +canis; remigibus fusco-atris, rhachibus albis. + +Colli latera parce cano-maculata; tectrices secundariae primoribus +obscuriores; remiges fusco-atrae, pogoniis internis fere ad apicem +albo-marginatis; rectrices externae fuscae basi apiceque albis; rostrum +subflavum; pedes nigri. + +Longitudo corporis, 19 1/4; alae a carpo ad remigem primam, 13 1/2; +caudae, 6 3/4; rostri, ad frontem, 2 1/3, ad rictum, 3 1/6; tarsi, 1 1/6. + +The hallux, or hind toe, of this bird appears to be more closely united +to the fore toes, and to be situated more in front than is usual among +the Terns: it is also to be observed, that the side of the nail of the +middle toe is considerably dilated, although not serrated, similar to +what is observed among the Pelecanidae. These characters offer a +corroboration of the affinity of the Sternae to the family of the +Pelecanidae, and particularly to the genus Phaeton, which approaches the +Terns more closely than any other group of that family, in the smaller +size of the membrane that unites the toes (see Linnean Transactions 14 +505). It may also be stated on the other hand, that the same membrane of +the Sterna pelecanoides deviates from its own genus, and approaches the +Pelecanidae, in its being more dilated than usual. The wings are longer +than the tail for a considerable extent, by which our bird also evinces +another character, in common with the long-winged Tachypetes, or Frigate +bird. + +14. Larus georgii (n.s.) + +L. albus, dorso alisque nigris; rectricibus albis, fascia media atra. + +Rostrum flavum, apice rubro; mandibulae inferioris gonide maxime +angulata; remiges primores atrae, secundariae supra nigrae apice albo, +infra albae; tectrices inferiores albae; pedes flavi. + +Longitudo corporis, 28; alae, a carpo ad remigem primam 18 3/4; +mandibulae, superioris ad frontem, 2 1/3, ad rictum, 3 1/6; tarsi, 2 +11/12; caudae, 8 1/2. + +This bird was found at King George the Third's Sound, on the South-west +Coast, in the vicinity of Seal Island. + +... + +REPTILIA. + +BY JOHN EDWARD GRAY, ESQUIRE, M.G.S. + +Genus CHLAMYDOSAURUS. Gray. + +Capite depresso; membrana tympani aperta. +Gula pennulis plicatis ornata. +Pedibus quatuor. +Digitis quinque, elongatis, simplicibus. +Cauda elongata, subcylindrica. + +Animal scaly; the head depressed; the nostrils placed on the side, midway +between the eyes and the end of the head; the drum of the ear naked; the +front teeth conical, awl-shaped (eight in the upper, and four in the +lower jaw); the hinder ones largest; the side or cheek teeth compressed, +short, forming a single ridge, gradually longer behind; tongue short, +fleshy, with an oval smooth disk at each side of the lower part of its +front part; neck rather long, furnished on each side with a large plaited +frill, supported above by a crescent-shaped cartilage arising from the +upper hinder part of the ear, and, in the middle, by an elongation of the +side fork of the bone of the tongue; body compressed; legs rather long, +especially the hinder ones; destitute of femoral pores; feet four, with +five toes, the first having two, the second three, the third four, the +fourth five, and the little finger and toe three joints; claws +compressed, hooked; tail long, nearly round, scaly. + +This genus appears to be nearly allied to the Agamae, but differs from +them in the peculiar frill that is appended to the neck. + +1. Chlamydosaurus kingii (n.s.) + +C. corpore luteo, nigro, variegato; squamis carinatis; pennula antice +serrata; cauda corpore duplo longiore. +Chlamydosaurus kingii, Gray manuscripts. +Icon. Table A. Natural size. + +Inhabits Port Nelson, north-west coast of Australia. + +The colour yellowish-brown variegated with black: the head depressed, +with the sides erect, leaving a blunt ridge on the upper part, in which +the eyes are placed: the ridge over the eyes covered with larger scales +than those over the head; eyes rather small, with a fleshy ridge above +them; eye-lids covered with minute, and surrounded by a delicate serrated +ridge of small upright scales: the lips surrounded by a row of oblong, +four-sided scales, arranged lengthways, the front scale of the upper lip +being the largest: the chin covered with narrow mid-ribbed scales, with a +five-sided one in the centre, and several of larger size just over the +front of the fork of the lower jaw: nostrils, surrounded by rather a +large orbicular scale, situated nearly mid-way between the eye and the +end of the upper jaw, the tubes pointing forwards: the side of the face +has a very obscure ridge extending from the angle of the mouth to the +under part of the ear: neck covered with small scales: frill arising from +the hinder part of the head, just over the front of the ears, and +attached to the sides of the neck and extending down to the front part of +the chest, supported above by a lunate cartilage arising from the hinder +dorsal part of the ear, and in the centre by a bone, which extends about +half its length: this bone appears to be an elongation of the side fork +of the bone of the tongue, but it could not be determined with certainty +without injuring the specimen; each frill has four plaits, which converge +on the under part of the chin, and fold it up on the side, and a fifth +where the two are united in the centre of the lower part of the neck; the +front part of its upper edge is elegantly serrated, but the hinder or +lower part is quite whole; the outer surface is covered with keeled +scales, which are largest towards its centre; the inner surface is quite +smooth. The scales of the back are oval, smoothish; those of the lower +part of the body and upper part of the legs acutely mid-ribbed, and of +the sides and joints of the limbs minute. The tail is twice as long as +the body, roundish, covered with acutely mid-ribbed scales, which towards +the end form six rows, so as to render it obscurely six-sided; the end is +blunt: the toes long, very unequal, varying in joints, as stated in the +generic character (which includes also the claw joint) compressed, scaly; +the claws hooked, horn-coloured. + +Length of the tail: 12 inches. +Length of the body: 5 inches. +Length of the head: 5 1/2 inches. +Breadth of the head over the eyes: 1 inch. +Length of the thigh: 1 9/10 inches. +Length of the foot and sole: 2 2/10 inches. +Length of the outer edge of the frill: 10 inches. + +This interesting lizard was found by Mr. Allan Cunningham, who +accompanied the expedition as His Majesty's Botanical Collector for Kew +Gardens, on the branch of a tree in Careening Bay, at the bottom of Port +Nelson. (See volume 1.) It was sent by him to Sir Everard Home, by whom +it was deposited in the Museum of the College of Surgeons,* which +precluded my examination of its internal structure. + +(*Footnote. Upon application to the Board of Curators of the College, I +was permitted to have a drawing made of this curious and unique specimen +for the Appendix of my work. The plate was engraved by Mr. Curtis, from +an exceedingly correct drawing made by my friend, Henry C. Field, +Esquire. P.P.K.) + +Respecting this remarkable Lizard, Mr. Cunningham's journal contains the +following remarks. "I secured a lizard of extraordinary appearance, which +had perched itself upon the stem of a small decayed tree. It had a +curious crenated membrane like a ruff or tippet round its neck, covering +its shoulders, and when expanded, which it was enabled to do by means of +transverse slender cartilages, spreads five inches in the form of an open +umbrella. I regret that my eagerness to secure so interesting an animal +did not admit of sufficient time to allow the lizard to show by its alarm +or irritability how far it depended upon, or what use it made of, this +extraordinary membrane when its life was threatened. Its head was rather +large, and eyes, whilst living, rather prominent; its tongue, although +bifid, was short and thick, and appeared to be tubular." Cunningham +manuscripts. + +Captain King informs me, that the colour of the tongue and inside of the +mouth was yellow. + +2. Uaranus varius, Merrem. +Lacerta varia, White, Journal of a Voyage to New Holland, 253, t. 38. +Shaw, Nat. Misc. t. 83. +Tupinambis variegatus, Daud. Rept. iij. 76. +Monitor bigarre, Cuv. Reg. Anim. ij. 24. + +This species, better known to English Dealers under the name of The Lace +Lizard, is peculiar in having the two series of the scales, placed on the +upper part of the centre of the tail, raised into a biserrated ridge, and +in the outer toe, or rather thumb, of the hinder-foot being long, and +reaching to the penultimate distal joint of the first or longest toe; the +claws are compressed, sharp. + +Genus PHELSUMA. Gray. + +Pedes quatuor, digitis fere aequalibus, totis lobatis, muticis; poris +femoralibus distinctis. + +Caput et truncus supra tesserulis minutis, infra squamis minimis, tecti. + +This genus, which appears to be confined to the Isle of France, differs +from the rest of the Geckonidae, by the toes being dilated the whole +length, and entirely clawless, and covered beneath with transverse +scales; by the thumb being very small and indistinct, and by the thighs +being furnished with a series of minute pores. + +3. Phelsuma ornata (n.s.). +P. supra plumbea macula, fasciaque rufa ornata, subtus albida. +Icon. -- +Inhabits Isle of France. + +Head depressed, truncated in front, covered with minute ovate scales; the +front of the upper part lead-coloured, with a rather broad red band a +little before the eyes, and a white crescent-shaped spot on each side +immediately behind it, and then some obscure red shades just behind that; +the back lead-coloured and blue, with six longitudinal series of +irregular-sized red spots; belly whitish; tail rather longer than the +body. Body one inch and five-eighths, head half an inch, tail two inches +and a half long. + +This animal is very interesting, as being the second species of a genus +recently established, which only consisted of P. cepedia, the Gecko +cepedien of Peron; Cuv. Reg. Anim. 2 46. and 4 t. 5. f. 5.; which has +somewhat the manner of colouring, but is very distinct from the Gecko +ocellatus of Oppel. + +Genus TILIQUA. Gray. + +Pedes quatuor pentadactyli, poris femoralibus nullis. +Caput scutatum; dentes in palato nulli. +Truncus regulariter squamosus. + +This genus is distinguished from the true Skinks by the want of Palatine +teeth, the shorter body, and the holes of the ears being furnished on +their front part with a fringe. It differs from the succeeding Genus, +Trachysaurus, in the head being covered with distinct flat plates, and +the whole of the body with cut hexangular scales; the scales are harder +than those of the true Skink, but not so distinctly bony as those of the +Trachysaurus. + +4. Tiliqua tuberculata. Gray. +Lacerta scincoides. Shaw, Nat. Misc. +Lacerta occidua. var. Shaw, Zool. iij. 289. +Scincus tuberculatus, Merrem. Syst. Amph. 73. +Scincoid, or Skink-formed Lizard, White, Journal 242. +Icon. White, l. c. t. 30. Shaw, N. M. t. 179; Zool. iij. t. 81. + +This Lizard, which was first described in the excellent journal of Mr. +White, does not appear to be uncommon on the coast of Australia, as there +are several specimens both in the British Museum and in the collection of +the Linnean Society, that were probably taken in the neighbourhood of the +colony; the specimen before me was caught at Seal Island, in King George +the Third's Sound. + +The scales of the whole of the body are broad, hexangular, with five or +six longitudinal, slightly-raised ridges, which gradually taper, and are +lost just before they reach the margin. The legs are short, thick; the +toes of the fore-feet are rather short, the outer reaching to the middle +of the second, the second and third equal; the fourth reaching to the +last joint of the third, and the little one to the second joint of the +fourth finger. In the hind foot the first and third toe are nearly equal, +and only half as long as the second; the fourth only half as long as the +third; and the fifth about half the length of the fourth toe. + +Genus TRACHYSAURUS. Gray. + +Pedes quatuor pentadactyli. +Caput sub-scutatum, dentes in palato nulli. +Truncus supra sqoamis crassis elongatis subspinosis, infra hexagonis +membranaceis imbricatis, tectus. +Cauda brevis, depressa. + +This genus is at once distinguished from the former, and indeed from the +whole of the Scincidae, by the large hard scales that cover the back of +the body and head; which are formed of distinct triangular long plates, +rough on the outside, and covered with a membranaceous skin. The body +shields of the head pass gradually into the dorsal plates. The teeth +short, thick, and conical; the palate toothless. The belly and lower +surface of the tail are covered with large six-sided scales, like the +other genera of the family. The head is rather large, triangular. The +legs short, weak; the toes very short, covered only with as many scales +as there are joints; the outer and innermost being about half as long as +the three central toes, which are nearly of equal length; claws short, +conical, channelled beneath. The tail short, depressed. + +5. Trachysaurus rugosus (n.s.) +T. squamis dorsi rugosis, caudae subspinosis; cauda brevissima. + +The body nearly uniform, chestnut brown; the head depressed with the +scales convex, and more nearly of an equal size than usual: those round +the eyes and mouth large; the three anterior scales on the edge of the +lower jaw larger than those which cover the lower surface of the head, +body, and tail, which are uniform, distinct, large, and membranaceous: +the scales of the back are nearly of equal size with those covering the +commencement of the tail; they are furnished with a prominent midrib, and +end in a point. The legs very short, compressed, covered with nearly +smooth, rather thin, scales. The toes very short; claws rather thick, and +short. The tail about half the length of the body. + +Head, three inches long. +Body, seven inches. +Tail, four inches. + +Only one specimen of this exceedingly interesting animal was brought home +by Captain King, but the spirits in which it had been preserved had +unfortunately evaporated, so that it was considerably injured; there is, +however, a specimen, apparently of the same animal, in the collection of +the Linnean Society, which wants the end of its tail. + +The above specimen was found at King George the Third's Sound, and is +preserved in the Museum. + +6. Agama muricata. Daud. +Lacerta muricata, Shaw, in White's Journal of a Voyage to New South +Wales, 244. +Lacerta Agama, var. ? Shaw, Gen. Zool. iij. 211. +Muricated Lizard, Shaw. +Icon. Shaw, Gen. Zool. t. 65, and White's Journal t. 31. f. 2. + +This lizard was first described in Mr. White's Journal, by the late Dr. +Shaw, who paid particular attention to that class of animals; but he was +afterwards inclined to consider it as only a variety of the common +Lacerta agama, or American Galeote, from which, however, it is quite +distinct. + +It appears to be a young specimen, since its length is only seven inches, +whilst that described by Dr. Shaw was more than a foot in length; and +some have been caught even of a much larger size. The Doctor's figure is +remarkably good, but rather more spinous than the specimen under +examination, which is probably another proof of its youth. It was taken +and preserved by Mr. James Hunter, R.N., who accompanied Captain King as +surgeon during the Mermaid's third voyage, and has been presented by him +to the British Museum. + +7. Disteira doliata. Lacepede, Ann. de Museum, D'Hist. Nat. 4 199. 210. +Enhydris doliatus, Merrem, Syst. Amph. 140. +Icon. Lacep. Ann. Mus. 4 t. 57. f. 2. + +The series of small hexagonal shields on the abdomen of this curious +animal appears to be formed of two series of scales united laterally. The +length of the specimen brought home by Captain King exceeds four feet. +The figure by M. Lacepede seems to be too short, but his description +agrees admirably with our specimen, which has been presented to the +British Museum. + +8. Leptophis* punctulatus (n.s.). +N. squamis laevibus apice uni-indentatis, spinae dorsalis triangularibus; +cauda quadrantali, tenui, squamis aequalibus. + +(*Footnote. I have adopted Mr. Bell's manuscript name for this genus +since his paper was read at the Zoological club of the Linnean Society, +before the publication of my genera of Reptiles in the Annals of +Philosophy, where I erroneously considered it as synonymous with Dr. +Leach's genus Macrosoma instead of my Ahaetulla. J.E.G.) + +Scales uniform, pale brown, with a minute black dot impressed on the +apex: body slender, compressed: abdominal scutae rather broad. The series +of scales on the side next to the ventral plates ovate and blunt; those +on the sides narrow, linear, in five series; the series of scales along +the centre of the back long, triangular. This arrangement of the scales +gradually assumes a uniform appearance on the neck close to the head, +where they are ovate. Head rather long with nine plates, frontal plate +being divided; the snout very blunt, truncated; the upper central labial +scale octangular, with a deep concavity on the labial margin; the +anterior and posterior mental scales long. The tail one-fourth the length +of the body, covered with uniform ovate quadrangular scales. Length, four +feet. + +This species appears to have a considerable affinity to the genus named +Macrosoma by Dr. Leach, but not described by him, and is very much like +Coluber decorus of Shaw. It belongs to the group called by English +Zoologists, Whip Snakes. + +The specimen above described was taken by Mr. James Hunter, at Careening +Bay, on the north coast, and presented by him to the British Museum. + +9. Leptophis spilotus. +Coluber spilotus, Lacepede, Ann. Mus. iv 209. + +A specimen of this snake was brought home by Captain King, agreeing very +well with the short description given by Lacepede, in his account of some +new species of animals from New Holland. It has not been taken notice of +in the modern works on Reptiles. It may, perhaps, be distinct from it; +but upon considering that upwards of two hundred species of this genus +have been already described, I thought it best not to increase the number +without very good reason. This species forms a second section in the +genus Leptophis, on account of the form of its scales, particularly those +of the throat. + +Captain King has informed me that turtles of two or three kinds are +common on the coasts of Australia, particularly within the tropic; and +Alligators were seen, in great abundance, in the rivers of the northern +and north-western coasts, particularly in those that empty themselves +into the bottom of Van Diemen's Gulf; but as no specimens of either of +these animals were preserved, no further notice can be taken of them.* + +(*Footnote. The turtle that frequents the North-east Coast, in the +neighbourhood of Endeavour River, is a variety of the Testudo mydas. See +Banks and Solander manuscripts.) + +... + +PISCES. + +BY JOHN EDWARD GRAY, ESQUIRE, M.G.S. + +1. Tetraodon argenteus. Lacepede, Ann. Mus. 4 203. +Icon. Ann. Mus. l.c. t. 58. f. 2. + +2. Chironectes tuberosus, G. Cuvier, Mem. Mus. 3 432. +Icon. -- + +There are two other species of this genus in Captain King's collection, +which appear to be new. + +3. Balistes australis. Donovan. Naturalist. Repos. 26. +Icon. l.c. + +4. Teuthis australis (n.s.). +T. fusca, fasciis sexta transversis nigro-fuscis, cauda truncata. +Icon. -- + +Body brown, paler beneath, with six transverse blackish-brown bands; the +first placed across the eye and front angle of the gill flap; the second +obliquely across the pectoral fin, and the three next, nearly +equidistant, straight across the body, the last band placed between the +spine and the base of the rays of the tail; and with a black longitudinal +line between the eyes. Teeth flat, rather broad, rounded at the end, and +denticulated. The gills flat, unarmed; pectoral fin subacute, triangular; +ventral fin triangular, supported by a very strong first ray; dorsal and +anal fins rounded. Tail truncated, spine on the side of the tail very +distinct, imbedded in a sheath. + +Pectoral fin, fifteen rays, first very short: Ventral fin, five rays, one +very strong, short. Dorsal fin, thirty-one; anterior very strong, first +short. Anal fin, twenty-three; two first very strong and short. Caudal +fin, sixteen rays, divided. + +Body 3; tail 1 1/4 inches long. Body 2 3/4 high; dorsal fin 3/4; pectoral +fin 1 1/4 inches long. + +This fish belongs to the Genus Acanthurus of Bloch, adopted by Shaw +(Harpurus, of Forster) but as that genus is apparently formed from the +type of Linnaeus' Genus, Teuthis, I have adopted the latter name for +those Chetodons which have one spine on each side of the tail, and +Acanthurus for those that have two. They are usually called Lancet-fish, +from the curious structure of the sub-caudal spines. + +Captain King has presented to the Museum seven or eight other sorts of +fish, in spirits, and several interesting drawings, which I have not +hitherto been enabled to find in any of the works on Ichthyology, but so +little is known of the genera and species of this department of Natural +History, that I am not inclined to describe them as new, for fear of +increasing the confusion at present existing. + +Among the unnamed fish, there is one exactly similar to a species found +by my late friend Mr. Cranch, in the South Atlantic. + +5. Squalus ocellatus. Gmelin, Syst. Nat. 1494. +Squalus oculatus. Banks and Solander, manuscripts. + +6. Squalus glaucus. + +Captain King observes, this fish is frequently found in the neighbourhood +of the coast. + +7. Squalus. Captain King in his manuscripts observes, that a species of +shark was observed commonly near the shores, having a short nose, with a +very capacious mouth; the body was of an ash grey colour, marked with +darker spots, of a round shape, and about two inches in diameter. This +shark was usually ten or eleven feet long. + +... + +ANNELIDES. + +1. Leodice gigantea. Savigny Syst. des Annel. page 49. Lam. 5 322. +Eunice gigantea, Cuv. Reg. Anim. 2 524. +Nereis aphroditois, Pall. Nov. Act. Petrop. 2 229. table 5. figure 1.7. +Terebella aphroditois, Gmelin, Syst. Nat. 3114. + +The specimen brought by Captain King is nearly five feet long, and was +procured at the Isle of France. + +... + +ANNULOSA. + +CATALOGUE OF INSECTS, COLLECTED BY CAPTAIN KING, R.N. + +BY WILLIAM SHARP MACLEAY, ESQUIRE, A.M., F.L.S. + +The collection consists of one hundred and ninety-two species, of which +one hundred and thirty belong to the class Mandibulata, fifty-eight to +Haustellata, and four to the Arachnida. Eighty-one of the species are +new, and the extent to which each order of winged insects has been +collected, will be best understood from the following summary. + +COLUMN 1: MANDIBULATA. +COLUMN 2: HAUSTELLATA. + +108 Coleoptera : 40 Lepidoptera. +8 Orthoptera : 2 Homoptera. +5 Neuroptera : 8 Hemiptera. +9 Hymenoptera : 8 Diptera. + +Total 188 Species. + +This number is, of course, not sufficient to allow any general remarks to +be founded on the collection, and the following Catalogue is, therefore, +merely descriptive. + +CLASS MANDIBULATA. + +Order COLEOPTERA. + +1. Panagaeus quadrimaculatus. Oliv. Enc. Meth. Hist. Nat. + +Obs. There is a wretched figure of this insect given in the fourth volume +of Cuvier's Regne Animal. + +2. Paecilus kingii (n.s.) P. atronitidus, antennis tomentosis obscuris, +basi et apice piceis, labri margine antico palpisque rufo-piceis, thorace +linea media longitudinali vix marginem +posticum attingente fossulaque utrinque postica, elytris striatis vix +atro-aeneis tibiis ad apicem tarsisque atro-piceis. + +3. Gyrinus rufipes. Fab. Syst. Eleuth. page 276. 13. + +Obs. The description of this species, as given by Fabricius is very +vague; but as it applies tolerably well to the insect collected by +Captain King, I have not thought proper to give it a new name. + +4. Silpha lacrymosa. Schreiber, in Linnean Transactions 6 194. t. 20, f. +5. + +5. Creophilus erythrocephalus. +Staphylinus erythrocephalus. Fab. Syst. Eleuth. 2 593. 19. + +6. Hister cyaneus. Fab. Syst. Eleuth. 1 page 88. 13. + +7. Hister. speciosus. Dej. Cat. page 48. + +8. Passalus polyphyllus (n.s.) P. ater depressiusculus, antennis +sex-lamellatis, vertice tuberculis tribus, intermedio majore compressa +linearum superiorem duarum elevatarum transversarum dissecante, thoracis +lateribus rufo-ciliatis, elytrorum striis lateralibus punctatis. + +9. Passalus edentulus (n.s.) P. ater convexiusculus antennis triphyllis, +verticis cornu elevato incurva canaliculato apice emarginato, tuberculo +utrinque acuto, elytrorllm striis subpunctatis, mandibulis concavis extus +dentatis. + +Obs. This insect is much less in size than the former, and is more +convex. + +10. Lamprima aenea. Horae Entom. 1 page 101. 3. + +11. Dasygnathus dejeanii. Horae Entom. 1 page 141. 1. + +12. Trox alternans (n.s.) T. capite antice linea angulati elevata +marginato, thorace lineis quatuor mediis elevatis, exterioribus +interruptis tuberculisque utrinque duobus inaequalibus, elytris +tuberculis striatim dispositis, striis alternatim majoribus. + +13. Melolontha festiva. Fab. Syst. Eleuth. 2 171. page 63. + +Obs. This most beautiful insect ought to be considered as the type of a +new genus near to Serica. + +14. Diphucephala sericea. Kirby, in Linnean Transactions 12 page 463. + +Obs. This genus I had named Agrostiphila in my manuscripts, but M. Dejean +has since published it under the name of Diphucephala. + +15. Diphucephala splendens (n.s.). D. viridis nitidissima antennis +palpisque nigris, capite antice thoracisque lateribus subpunctatis, media +canaliculato, elytris punctis rugosis seriatim dispositis, corpore subtus +hirsutie incano. + +An Melolontha colaspidoides, Schon. App. 101. ? + +16. Cetonia variegata. Fab. Syst. Eleuth. 2 page 157. 112. +C. luctuosa. Lat. in Cat. Mus. Gall. + +Obs. This insect is an inhabitant of the Isle of France, and was probably +collected by Captain King during his stay in that island. + +17. Cetonia australasiae. Donov. Ins. of New Holland, table 1. + +18. Cetonia dorsalis. Donov. Ins. of New Holland, table 1. + +19. Anoplognathus viridiaeneus. Horae. Ent. 1 page 144. 1. + +20. Anoplognathus viriditarsis. Leach. Zool. Miscel. 2 44. + +21. Anoplognathus rugosus. Kirby, Linnean Transactions 12 405. + +22. Anoplognathus inustus. Kirby, Linnean Transactions 12 405. + +23. Repsimus aeneus. +Melolontha aenea. Fab. Syst. Eleuth. 2 page 166. 30. + +24. Repsimus dytiscoides. Horae. Entom. 1 page 144. 2. + +25. Buprestis macularis. +Buprestis macularia. Don. Ins. of New Holland, table 8. + +26. Buprestis imperialis. Fab. Syst. Eleuth. 2 page 204. 98. + +27. Buprestis suturalis. Don. Ins. of New Holland, table 8. + +28. Buprestis variabilis. Don. Ins. of New Holland, table 7. + +29. Buprestis kingii (n.s.) B. elytris striatis nigro-violaceis +testaceo-quadrifasciatis haud bidentatis, thorace punctato nigro-aeneo +lateribus testaceis. + +Obs. This species comes perhaps too near to some of the darker varieties +of B. variabilis, of the true appearance of which scarcely any idea can +be formed from the figures of Donovan. Our insect bears a remarkable +similarity to a Surinam Buprestis, with serrated elytra. + +30. Buprestis bimaculata. Lin. Syst. Nat. 2 662. 16. Oliv. Ins. 2 32, +table 12, figure 140. + +Obs. This is an East Indian Insect; and, as Captain King collected a few +species in the Isle of France, this is probably one of them. + +31. Buprestis fissiceps. Kirby, in Linnean Transactions 12 page 458, +table 23, figure 4. + +32. Buprestis lapidosa (n.s.) B. cuprea scabrosa thorace lineis duabus +parallelis longitudinalibus elevatis, elytris integris subacuminatis +substriatis inter tuberculos punctatis, corpore subtus aeneo. + +33. Elater xanthomus (n.s.) E. ater antennis apicem versus dilatatis +serratis, thorace punctato canaliculato, elytris punctatis striatis +pubescentibus basi late auratis dimidiatis. + +Obs. This insect is about four lines long, and entirely black, except the +upper half of the elytra. + +34. Elater nigro-terminatus (n.s.) E. luteus cavite antennisque atris, +thorace convexo macula longitudinali sub-acuminata a margine antico ultra +medium attingente, elytris punctato~striatis apice late nigris, anoque +nigro. + +Obs. This insect is about the same length with the former, having its +feet and underside entirely yellow, excepting the head and a black anal +spot, something like the letter V. + +35. Lycus serraticornis. Fab. Syst. Eleuth. volume 2 1ll. 6. + +36. Lycus septemcavus (n.s.) L. ater thorace parabolico fossulis septem, +quatuor anticis fere aequalibus, posticarum media angusta lanciformi, +duabus lateralibus latis antice emarginatis. Scutello quadrato nigro; +elytrls rubris marginatis lineis quatuor elevatis, interstitiis duplici +serie punctorum transversorum crenatis. + +37. Lycus rhipidium (n.s.) L. ater antennis fiabellatis; thorace angulis +porrectis obtusis, fossulis septem, posticarum trium media longitudinali +lanciformi; scutello quadrato nigro; elytris rubris marginatis lineis +novem elevatis, quatuor alternatim majoribus, interstitiis crenatis. + +38. Telephorus pulchellus (n.s.) T. capite thoraceque nigro-nitidis, +hujus margine postico late rufo, elytris viridi-caeruleis tomentosis +punctatis ad suturam marginatis, corpore pedibusque nigris abdomine +subtus rufo. + +39. Malachius verticalis, (n.s.) M. rufo-testaceus vertice antennisque +apice nigro-nitidis, thorace testaceo. elytris fascia humerali mediaque +violaceis, postpectore pedibus anoque nigris. + +40. Clerus cruciatus (n.s.) C. testacea tomentosa, capite thoracis +lateribus elytrorumque maculis duabus longitudinalibus, quarum postica +latiori, nigris, elytris striato-punctatis apice rufescentibus, antennis +piceis. pedibus palpisque pallidis. + +41. Oedemera livida. Oliv. Ins. 50, table 1 figure 2. +Dryops livida. Fab. Syst. Eleuth. 2 68. 3. + +42. Oedemera lineata. Oliv. Ins. 50, table 1 figure 4. +Dryops lineata. Fab. Syst. Eleuth. 2 68. 4. + +Obs. I suspect this insect to be merely a variety of the former species. + +43. Oedemera punctum (n.s.) Oe. flavo-nitida antennis obscuris, fronte +puncto atro-nitido impresso, thorace lunula utrinque atro-nitida +impresso, scutello flavo, elytris nigro-fuscis limbo et sutura testaceis, +geniculis tibiis tarsisque nigris. + +44. Lagria tomentosa. Fab. Syst. Eleuth. volume 2 page 70. 9. + +45. Lagria rufescens. Dej. Cat. 72. + +46. Cistela securigera (n.s.) C. subtus picea supra brunnea pubescens, +antennis apice palporumque articulo ultimo securiformi nigris, elytris +punctis crenatis striatis. + +47. Amarygmus tristis. +Cnodulon triste. Fab. Syst. Eleuth. 2 page 13. 4. + +Obs. The characters of this genus are given by Fabricius under the head +of Cnodulon, but the true Cnodulon of M. Latreille is a native of St. +Domingo, and a different genus of which the characters are to be found in +the Genera Crustaceorum et Insectorum. The genus has, however, been of +late more accurately investigated by Dalman, in his Analecta +Entomologica, and he has given it the name of Amarygmus. + +48. Amarygmus viridicollis (n.s.) A. convexiusculus capite thoraceque +viridi-caeruleis, elytris cupreis striato-punctatis, corpore subtus +chalybeo pedibusque nigris. + +49. Amarygmus velutinus (n.s.) A. atro-nitidus glaberrimus labri margine +rubro, elytris nigro-aeneis punctorum striis minutissimis. + +Obs. This beautiful insect is one of the largest of a genus which +contains a great number of species. + +50. Adelium calosoioides. Kirby, in Linnean Transactions 12 page 420. 57. +table 22. figure 2. + +51. Adelium caraboides. Kirby, in Linnean Transactions 12 page 466. 17. + +52. Phalidura mirabilis. +Curculio mirabilis. Kirby, in Linnean Transactions 12 469. 21. table 23, +figure 9. + +Obs. The characters of this most singular genus Phalidura are chiefly to +be found in the broken clavate antennae, short thick rustrum, connate +elytra, and singular anal forceps of the male. + +53. Phalidura kirbii (n.s.) P. nigro-fusca clypeo subfurcato utrinque +canaliculato, thorace confertim noduloso, elytris lineis elevatis +interstitiis crenatis lateribusque punctato-striatis. + +54. Phalidura draco (n.s.) P. atrofusca vertice concavo cruce impresso, +clypeo emarginato, thorace depresso utrinque dilatato dentato margine +antico tuberculato tuberculourmque lineis quatuor duabus mediis +longitudinalibus, elytris punctis elevatis scabrosis utrinque dentibus +acutis seriatim armatis, lateribus seriatim nudulosis medioque linea +tuberculorum sub-duplici instructo. + +Obs. This and the following species are not true Phalidurae; at least +neither appears to have the anal forceps, but as they come close in +affinity to the genus Phalidura, I have not for the present ventured to +give them a new generic name. + +55. Phalidura marshami. Kirby, in Linnean Transactions 12 436. 77. + +Obs. This insect appears to be a Chrysolopus in M. Dejean's Catalogue. + +56. Hybauchenia nodulosa (n.s.) H. atra capite laevi vel punctis +minutissimis impresso, clypeo canaliculato, thorace irregulariter +noduloso, elytris sutura laeviori punctis que elevatis striatis striis +duabus a sutura alternatim majoribus. + +Obs. I regret that I am not able to give the detailed characters of this +genus at present. I shall merely, therefore, say that it has the broken +clavate antennae of Phalidura, only they are here longer than the head +and thorax taken together. The body is very convex:, having the thorax as +wide as the abdomen, subquadrate, with very convex sides. Abdomen joined +to thorax by a distinct peduncle. Elytra very convex, with almost +perpendicular sides. Feet long, with rather incrassated femora. + +57. Chrysolopus spectabilis. +Curculio spectabilis. Fab. Syst. Eleuth. 2 537. 184. + +58. Chrysolupus echidna (n.s.) C. atrofuscus vertice trilineato, thorace +punctis scabro medio concavo subcarinato lineis utrinque elevatis, +elytris crenatis seriebus spinarum duabus interiori anum versus +abbreviata; spinis anticis depressis obtusis, posticis acutis. +C. echidna. Dej. Cat. 88. + +59. Chrysolopus tuberculatus (n.s.) C. fuscus vertice lineato, thorace +punctis scabro medio canaliculato, elytris punctis seriatim impressis, +tuberculorumque seriebus tribus minutis interiori abbreviata; tuberculo +postico suturali maximo. + +60. Chrysolopus quadridens. +Curculio 4-dens. Fab. Syst. Eleuth. 2 536. 175. + +Obs. The three last species can scarcely be considered to belong to the +same genus with C. spectabilis; but I follow M. Dejean until the whole +family be more accurately investigated. + +61. Gastrodus crenulatus. +Curculio crenulatus. Fab. Syst. Eleuth. 2 518. 64. + +62. Gastrodus albolineatus (n.s.) G. niger thorace scabriusculo rugis +transversis duabus lineaque laterali alba, elytris nigris +striato-punctatis sutura striaque media elevatis laevibus linea laterali +alba haud apicem attingente, apice rufescente albo-punctato. + +63. Festus rubripes (n.s.) F. niger capite linea transversa constricto; +vertice lineis quatuor elevatis clypeoque tribus, antennis piceis clava +obscura, thorace punctis elevatis scabro: elytris punctis impressis +striatis, punctis conspicuis argenteo-squamigeris pedibus rufis geniculis +obscuris. + +Obs. I am doubtful whether this insect truly belongs to Megerle's genus +Festus. The antennae are much shorter than in Pachygaster. + +64. Cenchroma lanuginosa. Dej. Cat. page 95. + +65. Cenchroma obscura (n.s.) C. nigra squamis cinereis asperga clypeo +lineis duabus mediis approximatis elevatis lateribus albis, thorace +canaliculato, elytris punctis impressis striatis squamisque cinereis +subaureis praesertim ad latera aspersis, corpore subtus ad latera +pedibusque albo-squamosis. + +66. Curculio cultratus. Fab. Syst. Eleuth. 2 586. 173. +Oliv. Ins. 83. figure 157. + +Obs. This is a new genus of the Curculionidae, but as I am not able in +this place to give the characters of it, I prefer to cite the insect +under its Fabrician title. + +67. Rhynchaenus cylindrirostris. Fab. Syst. Eleuth. 2 463. 125. +Oliv. Ins. 83, figure 128. + +Obs. This insect is altogether as different from the true Rhynchaeni, as +the preceding one is from the true Curculiones. + +68. Rhynchaenus bidens. Fab. Syst. Eleuth. 2 457. 96. +Oliv. Ins. 83. figure 113. + +Obs. This is also not a true Rhynchaenus, but is a very singular insect +in appearance, as the acute spine, which rises from each elytron, appears +to be its peculiar defence against entomological collectors. + +69. Eurhinus scabrior. Kirby. in Linnean Transactions 12 page 428. 65. + +70. Rhinotia haemoptera. Kirby, in Linnean Transactions 12 page 426. + +71. Orthorhynchus suturalis (n.s.) O. nigro-fuscus punctis impressus +vertice ad oculos albo-bilineato, thorace fossula postica media alba, +elytris ad suturam linea pilis alba, corpore subtus lateribus albis. + +72. Carpophagus banksiae (n.s.) C. nigro-fuscus pilis albis aspersus +capite thoraceque punctatis linea media glabra divisis, scutello cinereo, +elytris rugosis lineis quatuor subelevatis, corpore subtus pedibusque +cinereo-sericeis. + +Table B. figure 1. + +Obs. This curious insect is said to be found on the Banksia, and would +probably, with Linnaeus, have been a Bruchus. The following are the +characters of this new genus. + +CARPOPHAGUS (novum genus.) + +Antennae ante oculos insertae filiformes articulo basilari crassiori, +secundo subgloboso brevissimo, ultimo apice conico acuto, + +Labrum semicirculare margine antico integro rotundato ciliato. + +Mandibulae validae corneae arcuatae, intus apicem versus subsinuatae +edentulae basin versus ciliatae vel submembranaceae. + +Maxillae basi corneae processubus duobus membranaceis apicem versus +instructae, lobo externo vel apicali ovali extus ciliato; interno +tenuiori lanciformi apice acuto. + +Palpi maxillares breves crassi vix ultra maxillarum apicem extensi, +quadriarticulati articulo stipitali vix conspicuo secundo obconico tertio +subgloboso breviori ultimo ovali obtuso. + +Palpi labiales triarticulati articulo stipitali minimo, secundo obconico +longiore, ultimo crassiori ovato, apice truncato. + +Labium obcordatum basi corneum angustius apice membranaceum medio +emarginatum ciliatum lobo utrinque rotundato. + +Mentum semicirculare antice rotundatum medio emarginato sive edentulo. + +Caput porrectum oculis prominulis thorace angustiua clypeo quadrato +vertice inter oculos fossulis duabus antice convergentibus. Thorax haud +marginatus lateribus haud rotundatis subcylindricus antice angustius, +postice sublobatus. Scutellum tuberculare mucronatum. Abdomen thorace +duplo latius. Elytra convexa humeris eminentibus postice divergentia +rotundata. Pedes pentameri articulis tribus tarsorum primis ciliatis +pulvillatis dilatatis, tertio bilobo, quarto brevissimo et quinto +tenuibus obconicis, hoc biunguiculato. Femora postica valde incrassata +intus unidentata; dente magno. Tibiae posticae compressae apice +dilatatae. + +73. Megamerus kingii (n.s.) M. nigro-fuscus labro palpisque piceis +thorace vix punctato postice rugoso, elytris rugis vel punctis +confluentibus substriatis fossula ad humeros profunda lineaque suturali +impressis, corpore subtus pilis sub-sericeo pedibusque concoloribus. + +Table B. figure 2. + +Obs. This singular insect has an affinity to Sagra, but differs from that +genus in having setiform antennae, porrect mandibles, and securiform +palpi. Its habit is also totally different from that of a Sagra, and more +like that of some of those insects which belong to the heterogeneous +magazine called Prionus. It is, undoubtedly, the most singular and novel +form in Captain King's collection, and forms a new genus, of which the +characters are as follow. + +MEGAMERUS (novum genus). + +Antennae inter oculos insertae filiformes vel potius setaceae articulo +basilari crassiori secundo subgloboso brevissimo apicali acuto. + +Labrum transverso-quadratum antice submembranaceum tomentosum +subemarginatum. + +Mandibulae exertae porrectae supra convexiusculae lunulatae vel +falciformes dorso subsinuatae apice vel extus oblique truncatae +acutissimae. + +Maxillae basi corneae processubus duobus submembranaceis apicem versus +instructae, lobo externo vel apicali ovali extus ciliato, interno +tenuiori apice subacuto margineque interno vix unidentato. + +Palpi maxillares quadriarticulati, articulo stipitali minimo inconspicuo, +secundo obconico longo duobus ultimis simul sumptis longitudine fere +aequali, tertio obconico crassiori, ultimo securiformi compressa. + +Palpi labiales triarticulati articulo stipitali minimo inconspicuo, +secundo longo obconico setis quibusdam ad apicem instructo, tertio +triangulari compresso vel securiformi. + +Labium membranaceum cordatam antice bilobum, lobis elongatis ciliatis +interno latere rectilineari extus ad apicem rotundatis. + +Mentum semicirculare antice rotundatum margine antico emarginato. + +Caput porrectum oculis prominentibus thorace haud angustius. Thorax +convexus antice posticeque marginatus lateribus rotundatis haud +marginatis. Scutellum triangulare subacutum. Abdomen thorace fere duplo +latius. Elytra humeris eminentibus marginatis, lateribus parallelis. +Pedes pentameri articulis tribus tarsorom primis ciliatis pulvillatis +dilatatis, penultimo bilobo, ultimo tenui biunguiculato. Femora postica +valde incrassata intus unidentata. Tibiae posticae compressae apice +dilatatae angulo externo acuto. + +Obs. The structure of the tarsus in this genus, so near in affinity to +Carpophagus and Sagra, has led me to investigate more minutely the tarsus +in the tetramerous and trimerous insects of the French entomologists, and +the result has been that the arrangement given in the third volume of M. +Cuvier's Regne Animal, is discovered to be as erroneous in point of +description, as it is inconsistent with natural affinities. + +74. Prionus bidentatus. Don. Ins. of New Holland, table 6. + +75. Prionus fasciatus. Don. Ins. of New Holland, table 6. + +76. Prionus spinicollis (n.s.) P. piceus antennis filiformibus basi +nigris articulo ultimo vix crassiore, capite fusco tomentoso, thorace +nigro-fusco punctis scabroso, lateribus spinulosus, in medio postice +carina laevi tuberculoque utrinque magno compressa scabro; scutello piceo +nigro-marginato, elytris testaceis punctulatis substriatis apice +unidentatis, pectoris lateribus rufo-tomentosis. + +77. Distichocera maculicollis. Kirby, in Linnean Transactions 12. + +78. Distichocera ? rubripennis (n.s.) D. rufo-testacea subtomentosa, +capitis lateribus oreque nigris, vertice canaliculato, antennis nigris +articulis vix biramosis ramis sinistris brevissimis, thorace atro vitta +utrinque rufotestacea, scutello nigro, elytris rufo-testaceis tomentosis +apice obtusis dehiscentibus, corpore cuneiformi subtus villo argenteo +micante, abdomine utrinque nigro maculato, pedibus nigris. + +Obs. This insect may be considered a Molorchus with elytra as long as its +wings; and it, therefore, evidently connects this genus with +Distichocera. + +79. Clytus thoracicus. Don. Sys. of New Holland, table 5. + +Obs. This insect leaves the typical form of Clytus, so much as to make me +hesitate in placing it in the genus. + +80. Callidium bajulus. Fab. Syst. Eleulh. 2 333. 2. + +Obs. This insect answers perfectly well to the specific description as +given by Fabricius, but is rather larger than the European insect, and +has eight obsolete white spots disposed in two parallel bands on the back +of the elytra. + +81. Callidium erosum (n.s.) C. nigrum capite punctato, ore testaceo, +antennis apice fuscis, thorace tomentoso punctato vel potius punctis +confluentibus eroso disco rufo medio subtuberculato, elytris acuminatis +apice deflexis lineis duabus elevatis interstitiis punctis confertissimis +pulcherrime erosis sutura margineque rufis, corpore subtus pedibusque +tomentosis. + +Var. B. Major, cavite rufo antennis fuscis, elytris rufis litura inter +lineas duas elevatas solum nigricante, pedibus nigropiceis. + +82. Callidium solandri. +Lamia solandri. Oliv. Ins. 67. 133. Plate 16. figure 118. +Fab. Ent. Syst. 2. 292. 97. + +Obs. I place Olivier's Synonym in this case first; because the Fabrician +description is so erroneous, that did we not know the original insect in +the Banksian Collection, there would be no possibility of making it out. + +83. Stenochorus semipunctatus. Fab. Syst. Eleuth. 2 306, 8. + +Obs. This and the three following species belong to the Stenochori +Callidiiformes of Schonnher. + +84. Stenochorus acanthocerus (n.s.) S. fusco-ferrugineus capite punctato, +antennis rubris articulo tertio quarto quinto et sexto apice spinosis, +ore rubro, maxillis elongatis apice ciliatis membranaceis, palpis +securiformibus, thorace obscuro utrinque unispinoso margine antico +tuberculisque dorsalibus utrinque duobus posticoque semicirculari rubris, +scutello rubro; elytris rubris fasciis tribus nigris undatis, ad basin +inter lineas elevatas subcrenatis apicemque versus punctatis apice +bidentatis; corpore subtus nigro-nitido tomentoso pedibus rubris. + +85. Stenochorus dorsalis (n.s.) S. fulvo-piceus capite angusto, labro +palpisque testaceis, vertice canaliculato, thorace inaequaliter rugoso +eminentia media ovali glabra tribusque aliis utrinque inconspicuis, +elytris bidentatis lineis subelevatis interstitiisque punctatis macula +media suturali testacea antice subemarginata, antennis subtus villosis +articulis apice haud spinosis, corpore pedibusque piceis femoribus +incrassatis. + +86. Stenochorus tunicatus (n.s.) S. flavus antennarum articulis duobus +primis nigris quinto apice septimo nonoque nigris, thorace subcylindrico +utrinque unidentato supra quadrituberculato tuberculis anticis majoribus, +elytris apice flavis unidentatis, parte basali ultra medium +subviolaceo-flava linea obliqua terminata, corpore pedibusque +flavo-testaceis. + +87. Stenoderus abbreviatus. Dej. Cat. 112. +Cerambyx abbreviatus. Fab. Syst. Eleuth. +Leptura ceramboides. Kirby, in Linnean Transactions volume 12 page 472. + +Obs. This is certainly Mr. Kirby's Leptura ceramboides, and perfectly +agrees with the Fabrician description of the Cerambyx abbreviatus, except +that no mention is there made of its mouth being yellow. Mr. Kirby says +of this insect, "a habitu Lepturae omnino recedit Cerambycibus propior," +and certainly were it allowable to judge entirely from habit, it would +seem to connect those American Saperdae of Fabricius and Olivier which +have bearded antennae, such as (S. plumigera, Oliv., barbicornis, Fab.) +with some other family, perhaps the Oedemeridae. But, however this may +be, the genus Stenoderus differs from the Cerambycidae, and agrees with +the Lepturidae, inasmuch as it has the antennae inserted between the +eyes. + +88. Stenoderus concolor (n.s.) S. obscure testceus, antennis articulo +basilari longo apice crassiori, capite thoraceque cylindrico constricto +subrufis, elytris testaceis punctatis lineis quatuor elevatis. + +89. Lamia vermicularis. Schon. in App. Syn. Ins. page 169, 234. +L. vermicularia. Don. Ins. Fab. 5. + +90. Lamia rugicollis. Schon. in App. Syn. Ins. page 169, 234. + +91. Lamia bidens. Fab. Syst. Eleuth. 2 304. 124. + +92. Acanthocinus piliger (n.s.) A. antennis obscuris pilosis apicem +versus cinereo-annulatis, capite cinereo vertice nigro bilineato, thorace +obscuro cinereo inaequali postice subcanaliculato medio utrinque +tuberculato, elytris obscuris fasciculis minutis nigris flavis +cinereisque variegatis, fascia media cinerea undata cristaque tuberculata +humeros versus. + +93. Notoclea immaculata. Marsham, in Linnean Transactions 9 291, table +25. figure 4. + +94. Notoclea variolosa. Marsham, in Linnean Transactions 9 285, table 24. +figure 1. + +95. Notoclea reticulata. Marsham, in Linnean Transactions 9 285, table +24. figure 2. + +96. Notoclea 4-maculata. Marsham, in Linnean Transactions 9 287, table +24. figure 6. + +Obs. I suspect that this insect is merely a variety of N. reticulata. + +97. Notoclea atomaria. Marsham, in Linnean Transactions 9 286, table 24. +figure 3. + +98. Notoclea splendens (n.s.) N. splendidissime cuprea antennis piceis, +scutello nigro, thorace postice elytrorum sutura maculisque duabus +dorsalibus caeruleo-viridibus, elytris novem striis punctorum +subtilissime impressis. + +99. Notoclea testacea. Marsham, in Linnean Transactions 9 289. table 24. +figure 10. + +100. Notoclea 8-maculata. Marsham, in Linnean Transactions 9 294. table +25. figure 10. + +101. Podontia nigrovaria (n.s.) P. rufa thorace punctis quatuor utrinque +inter latus et fossulas anticas duas divergentes in lineam transversam +dispositis, scutellu piceo, elytris testaceis nigro-variis striatis +striis punctatis, corpore subtus pedibusque rufis, femoribus posticis +valde incrassatis. + +Obs. This insect bears a great affinity to Chrysomela 14-punctata, Fab., +and other Asiatic insects of this type, which have been separated from +Chrysomela by Dalman in his Ephemerides Entomologicae, under the name of +Podontia. + +102. Phyllocharis cyanicornis. Dalman. Ephem. Entom. 21. Chrysomela +cyanicornis. Fab. Syst. Eleuth. 1 page 436. 85. + +103. Phyllocharis klugii (n.s.) P. rufo-testacea antennis scutello +pedibusque atro-cyaneis, capite puncto verticali, thorace macula +posticali, elytris punctato-striatis maculis duabus anticis cruceque +apicali atro-cyaneis, abdomine subtus atro-cyaneo limbo rufo. + +Obs. This species comes very near to the Chrysomela cyanipes of +Fabricius, and is probably only a variety of it. + +104. Chrysomela 18-guttata. Fab. Syst. Eleuth. 1 439. 101. +Don. Ins. of New Holland, table 2. + +105. Chrysomela curtisii. Kirby, in Linnean Transactions volume 12. + +106. Cryptocephalus tricolor. Fab. Syst. Eleuth. 2 51. 55. +Var. beta. Thoracis macula media nigra. + +107. Cassida deusta. Fab. Syst. Eleuth. 1 396.44. +Oliv. Ins. 97. table 1 figure 17. + +108. Coccinella kingii (n.s.) C. pallide testacea thorace medio maculis +quinque nigris duabus anticis elongatia tribusque posticis rotundatis, +elytris nigro-tripunctatis punctis humeralibus duobus alioque media +marginali. + +Order ORTHOPTERA. + +109. Blatta australis (n.s.) B. elongato-ovata, ferrugineo-fusca thorace +suborbiculato-quadrato, marginibus laterali et posticali lunulisque +utrinque duabus paulisper impressis, fascia ante marginem posticum nigrum +lata alba transversa, et lineolis duabus longitudinalibus mediis rufis +carinulam formantibus in furcam flavam ad marginem anticum desinentibus. + +Obs. The elytra of the male are much longer than the abdomen. + +110. Mantis quinquedens (n.s.) M. dilute-viridis thorace haud tripla +longiore quam latiore, dorso parte antica, canaliculata excepta +longitrorsum carinato, marginibus lateralibus denticulatis, elytris +thorace duplo longioribus elongato-ovatis dilute viridibus margine +externo maculaque media elevata flavescentibus; alis hyalinis dilute +ferrugineis margine antico apiceque subfuscis; pedibus anticis coxis +denticulatis margine interna piceo lineis quatuor albis elevatis +transversis in dentes desinentibus. + +111. Mantis darchii (n.s.) M. dilute viridis thorace quadruplo longiore +quam latiore, dorso parte antica canaliculata excepta longitrorsum +carinato, marginibus lateralibus postice haud denticulatis, elytris +thorace haud duplo longioribus linearibus acuminatis antice viridibus +margine flavescente postice subhyalinis subfuscis, nervo costam versus +crassiore, aiis apice acuminatis margine antico dilute rufescente, medio +nigro punctis hyalinis et parte postica fusca obscura vix maculata. + +Mantis darchii. Captain P.P. King, manuscripts. + +Obs. This insect has been named by Captain King after his friend Thomas +Darch, Esquire, of the Admiralty. + +112. Phasma titan (n.s) P. corpore decem unciarum longo, subcinereo-fusco +lineari, thorace spinulis quibusdam raris acutis elytris longiore, his +nigro-viridibus testaceo maculatis maculaque in marginis antici medio +magna alba, alis membranaceis nigro-fuscis albo-maculatis, antice +coriaceis ad basin rubris nigro-maculatis ad apicem nigro-viridibus +testaceo maculatis, pedibus albo-cinereis coxis anticis trigonis angulo +inferiori dentibus magnis rufis postico minoribus et superiori nullis. + +Obs. This immense insect, which is nearly a foot long, is now for the +first time described, although it seems to be not uncommon in New South +Wales. Although much larger, it comes very near to the P. Gigas of +Linnaeus and Stoll, and like it, belongs to Lichtenstein's division, thus +characterized, "Alata elytris alisque in utroque sexu." + +113. Phasma tiartum (n.s.) P. corpore fere quinque unciarum longo +cuneiformi viridi, capite tiara acuminata spinulosa coronato, thorace +antice angusto subdepresso spinuloso postice dilatato convexiori +marginibus lateralibus denticulatis, abdomine antice cylindrico medio +valde dilatato margine dentato et in processum segmentorum trium linearem +desinente segmentis supra binis laminis dentatis in medio armatis, +elytris viridibus subovatis minutis alarum rudimentis brevioribus; +pedibus viridibus coxis triquetris, anticis angulo interiori tridentato, +superiori denticulato processu ad apicem cristato, inferiori dilatato +rotundato, quatuor posticis dilatatis ovatis margine denticulatis, +femoribus anticis extus dilatatis rotundatis apicem versus +subemarginatis, quatuor posticis triquetris angulis dentatis exteriori +valde dilatato. Table B. figure 3 et 4. + +Obs. I have been thus particular in the description of this rare insect, +in order to afford as much information as possible to the naturalist, who +may be inclined to investigate the natural arrangement of the Phasmina. + +114. Locusta salicifolia (n.s.) L. viridis thorace supra plano lateribus +perpendicularibus angulis flavescentibus, elytris alis brevioribus +lanceolato-ovatis, costa flava punctis utrinque ad medium impressis alis +hyalinis acuminatis apice viridibus. + +Obs. This insect differs from the L. unicolor of Stoll, a Javanese +insect, inasmuch as its thorax is not dentated, and is marked at the +angles with yellow. + +115. Gryllus pictus. Leach, Zool. Misc. 1 table 25. + +116. Gryllus regulus (n.s.) G. ferrugineo-fuscus antennis filiformibus +nigris, elytris obscure nebulosis, alis fusco-hyalinis, thoracis +lateribus postice testaceis, corpore subtus rufo-testaceo, tibiis +posticis testaceis spinis dorsalibus rufis apicibus nigris. + +Order NEUROPTERA. + +117. Libellula sanguinea (n.s.) L. tota sanguinea alis hyalinis stigmate +fulvo nervisque sanguineis, posticis basi flavescentibus. + +118. Libellula oculata. Fab. Ent. Syst. 2 376. 9. + +119. Libellula stigmatizans. Fab. Ent. Syst. 2 375. 8. + +120. Lestes belladonna (n.s.) L. supra viridis subtus albescens pedibus +nigris, alis quatuor cultratis macula ad marginem apicalem alba. + +121. Agrion kingii (n.s.) A. capite nigro, fronte corporeque subtus +albidis, thorace abdomineque supra fuscis, segmentis abdominalibus nigro +alboque annulatis, alis hyalinis stigmate fusco. + +Order HYMENOPTERA. + +122. Ophion luteum. Fab. Syst. Piez. 130. 1. + +Obs. This seems, according to Fabricius, to be merely a variety of the +common European insect. + +123. Liris angulata. Fab. Syst. Piez. 230. 9. + +124. Pompilus morio. Fab. Syst. Piez. 187. 1. + +125. Pompilus collaris. Fab. Syst. Piez. 187. 2. + +126. Alyson tomentosum (n.s.) A. nigro-pubescens abdominis segmentis +apice argenteis, alis apice nigricantibus. + +127. Thynnus variabilis. Leach, manuscripts. +Thynnus dentatus. Fab. Syst. Piez. 231. 1. + +128. Eumenes campaniformis. Fab. Syst. Piez. 287. 10. + +129. Eumenes apicalis (n.s.) E. flava thoracis spatio inter alas +segmentique abdominalis secundi parte basali nigris, alis flavis apice +fuscis. + +130. Centris bombylans. Fab. Syst. Piez. 358. 19. + +CLASS HAUSTELLATA. + +Order LEPIDOPTERA. + +131. Papilio eurypilus. Linn. Syst. Nat. 2 page 754. 49. +Godart. Enc. Meth. Hist. Nat. 9 45. 61. + +Obs. Captain King found an insect on the north coast of New Holland, +which, I think, can only be deemed a variety of P. eurypilus, a species +hitherto recorded as inhabiting Java and Amboyna. This variety is +distinguished from the euripilus of Godart by several minute differences. + +132. Papilio macleayanus. Godart, Enc. Meth. Hist. Nat. 9 47. 65. + +133. Papilio sthenelus (n.s.) P. alis nigris flavo-maculatis posticis +dentatis fascia maculaque adjecta flavis, ocello anali rufo lunulae +caeruleae submisso. + +Obs. This species is in New Holland what demoleus is in Africa, and epius +in India. It is even difficult to determine whether the three may not be +varieties of one species. If varieties, however, they are certainly +permanent according to the above localities, and this species may be +easily distinguished from epius, which it most resembles, by the large +yellow spot near the middle of the superior margin of the upper wing. +This spot is divided into two in epius and demoleus. Moreover, the band +of the lower wing in P. sthenelus is only attended with one small spot. + +134. Papilio anactus (n.s.) P. alis nigro-fuscis, anticis +griseo-maculatis, inferis dentatis fascia alba extus dentata lunula media +nigra limbique nigri lunulis quinque caeruleis ocellis tot rufis +submissis. + +Obs. This fine species is of the middle size, and seems to have a +relation both with P. epius and P. machaon. The vertex is +orange-coloured, with a black line in the middle. The two upper wings are +slightly dentated, the lower dentations being marked with white spots. +There are three grey spots in the middle of the superior margin of the +wing, of which the largest is the one nearest to the body; on the outside +of these are two parallel rows of grey spots, the first range consisting +of about nine oblong spots unequal in size, and the outer range of eight +smaller, whitish, and round spots. The white band of the lower wings, +which are not tailed, has a black crescent-like spot in the middle; and +on the outside, two parallel rows of five spots, the one blue and the +other red, The emarginations of these wings are fringed with white. The +underside of this insect is like the upper, except that the colours are +more pronounced, and that there are two round white spots on the outside +of the white band of the lower wings. + +135. Papillo cressida. Godart, Enc. Meth. Hist. Nat. 9. 76. 145. + +136. Papilio harmonia. Don. Ins. of New Holland. +P. Harmonoides. Godart, Enc. Meth. Hist. Nat. 9 76. 146. + +137. Pontia crokera (n.s.) P. alis integerrimis niveis anticis apice +punctoque nigris, posticis cinereo-submarginatis subtus flavo-irroratis. +P. crokera. Captain P.P. King, manuscripts. + +Obs. This insect is of Godart's fifth size, and comes very near to his +Pieris nina. The wings are of a fine white colour, particularly the +upper. These have their summit black, and a minute black point, near the +middle. The under wings are without any spots, but are bordered behind by +a cinereous thread. The underside of the upper wings have the costa and +summit covered with spots and minute incontinuous lines of a yellowish +colour. The underside of the lower wings are sulphureous, with very fine +undulating or rather incontinuous lines of a yellowish colour. + +The species has been named by Captain King, after John Wilson Croker, +Esquire, M.P., and first secretary to the Admiralty. + +138. Pieris niseia (n.s.) P. alis albis limbo late nigro; anticis macula +media nigra limboque albo-trimaculato; posticis subtus nigro-venosis +limbi maculis luteo-notatis. + +Obs. This insect comes very near to the P. teutonia of Godart and +Donovan, particularly in its underside. It is, however, smaller than that +insect. The upper wings are white, with a posterior broad black +subtriangular border, having two or three white spots at the apex. These +wings have a black spot near their middle, which is also on the +underside, but there communicates by a transverse, short, and rather +curved, black band, with a black superior edging of the wing. In other +respects the underside of the superior wings is like the upper, except +perhaps that it is yellowish at the base. The lower wings have their +upper side white, with a broad black border. Their underside is strongly +veined with black, having the base and the middle of the outer row of +white spots in the posterior margin of the wing yellowish. + +139. Pieris scyllara (n.s.) P. alis integerrimis albis limbo exteriori +utrinque nigro: anticis elongato-trigonis maculis apicalibus quatuor +albis. + +Obs. This species comes very near to P. lyncida of Godart. Its wings are +white above. The upper ones have their costa blackish, and a triangular +border at their extremity rather dentated on the inside. On this black +border is a transverse row of four or five white spots, unequal in size. +The lower wings have also a black border with one white spot, and which +is simply crenated on the inside. The underside of the four wings +scarcely differs from the upper, except that the black borders above +mentioned are in general more pale, and those of the lower wings are +broader than on the upper side. + +140. Pieris nysa. Fab. Syst. Ent. 3 195. 606. +P. Eudora. Don. Ins. of New Holland. +P. Nysa. Godart, Enc. Meth. Hist. Nat. 9 152. 118. +P. Eudora. Godart, Enc. Meth. Hist. Nat. 9 152. 117 ? + +Obs. On an inspection of the original Pieris nysa of Fab., in the +Banksian cabinet, I find it to be the same with the P. eudora of Donovan, +the only difference being that the under wings are less cinereous on the +upper side, and the upper wings have more white at the extremity of the +yellow spots at the base of their undersides. These minute differences +appear to be sexual. At all events this is undoubtedly the P. eudora of +Donovan, in his Insects of New Holland. M. Godart, however, most +erroneously quotes another work of Donovan, namely, The Insects of India, +and gives an erroneous description, apparently from confounding some +Indian insect with the insect described by Donovan. Godart has also +erroneously altered the Fabrician description of P. nysa, and thus added +to the multitude of proofs which his laborious work affords, that the +continental entomologists have no means of undertaking a complete +description of species, without visiting the extensive collections of +London. + +141. Pieris nigrina. Godart, Enc. Meth. Hist. Nat. 9 149. 108. + +142. Pieris aganippe. Godart, Enc. Meth. H. Nat. 9 153. 121. + +143. Pibris smilax. Don. Ins. of New Holland. +P. Smilax. Godart, Enc. Meth. Hist. Nat. 9 136. 56. + +Obs. As Godart here again cites Donovan's work on the Insects of India, +instead of his Insects of New Holland, I am inclined to think that he +never saw those works. + +144. Pieris herla (n.s.) P. alis rotundatis integerrimis flavis, anticis +apice fuscis, posticis margine nigro-sublineatis subtus testaceis atomis +griseis aspersis. + +Obs. This insect is larger than P. smilax, but resembles it extremely in +its upper side. The underside, however, is different, as the extremity of +the upper wings and the whole of the under wings are of a fawn colour. +The underside of the lower wings is also sprinkled with some grey atoms, +and marked obscurely with a fuscous band under two points. + +145. Euplaea chrysippus. Godart, Enc. Meth. H.N. 9 187.88. + +Obs. Captain King has brought a variety of this insect from New Holland, +which only differs from the European specimen figured by Hubner, in the +row of white points round the edge of the upper side of the lower wings +being evanescent. This species is one of those which have a great range +of distribution, being found in Naples, Egypt, Syria, India, Java, and +New Holland. + +146. Euplaea affinis. Godart. Enc. Meth. H. Nat. 9 182. 21. + +147. Euplaea hamata (n.s.) E. abdomine supra nigro subtus fusco alis +repandis SUPRA atris; omnibus utrinque ad extimum punctis ad basin +maculis subbifidis virescenti-albis: subtus anticarum apice posticarumque +pagina omni, olivaceo-fuscescentibus. + +Obs. This insect comes so very near to the Euplaea limniace, of Godart +and Cramer, which is common on the Coromandel Coast as well as in Java +and Ceylon, that I can scarcely consider it as any thing but a variety of +that species. It differs, however, in being constantly of a smaller size, +in its abdomen being black, and in the exterior row of white spots on the +under wings not extending much more than half way round the margin of +these wings. Captain King found this insect in surprising numbers on +various parts of the North-east Coast, particularly at Cape Cleveland. +See volume 1. + +148. Danais tulliola. Fab. Ent. Syst. 3 page 41. 123. + +Obs. I reserve the generic name of Danais for such of M. Latreille's +genus as have no pouches to the lower wings of their males; and to the +remainder I give the Fabrician generic name of Euplaea. + +149. Danais darchia, (n.s.) P. alis integris fuscis velutinis +caeruleo-micantibus, omnibus supra fascia maculari intra punctorum seriem +marginalem abbreviatam alba; anticis puncto albo costali. + +Danais Darchia. Captain P.P. King MSS. + +Obs. This is exactly the size of D. eleusine, to which it appears to come +very near. The upper side of the four wings is brownish-black, having +towards the margin an arched band of violet-coloured white spots, of +which the greatest is at the extremity of the wing. There is also on the +superior margin, about the middle of the upper wing, a white point, and +at its inferior angle a marginal series of a few white points. The upper +side of the lower wings has an abbreviated series of marginal points on +the outside of an arched series of violet-coloured whitish lunulae. The +underside answers well to the description given by Godart of the +underside of his Danais eunice, except that D. darchia has only one white +point in the middle of the upper wing. + +This species bas been named by Captain King after his friend Thomas +Darch, Esquire, of the Admiralty. + +150. Danais corinna (n.s.) P. alis integris fuscis velutinis +caeruleo-micantibus, anticis punctis quatuor costalibus, maculis duabus +angularibus et punctorum serie marginali albis, punctis extimum versus +majoribus; alis posticis punctorum serie marginali et macularum +longitudinalium fascia discoidali albis. + +Obs. This species comes between the Danais cora of Godart and his D. +coreta. The underside differs in having the marginal series of white +points continued to the very tip of the upper wings, while they have +three other points in the disc. There are also eight or nine similar +white points between the base of the lower wings and the band of +longitudinal spots. + +151. Nymphalis lassinassa. Godart. Enc. Meth. 9 395. 155. + +152. Vanessa itea. Godart. Enc. Meth. 9 321. 57. + +153. Vanessa cardui, var. Godart. Enc. Meth. 9 323. 62. + +154. Satyrus banksia. Godart. Enc. Meth. 9 477, 3. + +155. Satyrus abeona. Godart. Enc. Meth. 9 497. 72. + +156. Satyrus merope. Godart. Enc. Meth. 9 500. 80. + +157. Satyrus archemor. Godart. Enc. Meth. 9 500. 81. + +158. Argynnis niphe. Godart. Enc. Meth. 9 261. 17. + +159. Argynnis tephnia. Godart. Enc. Meth. 9 262. 18. + +160. Acrea andromacha. Fab. Ent. Syst. 3 182. 564. +A. entoria. Godart. Enc. Meth. 9. + +Obs. The original insect of Fabricius is in the Banksian cabinet, and +affords further cause of regret, that the article "Papillon," of the +Encyclopedie Methodique, should have been undertaken by a person who had +not studied the classical collections that exist out of Paris. M. Godart +describes this insect as a new species, under the name of Entoria, and +makes it an inhabitant of the West Coast of Africa. + +161. Cethosia penthesilea. Godart. Enc. Meth. 9 248. 13. + +Obs. This species bas hitherto been described only as a native of Java, +but Captain King found several specimens of a variety of it on the North +Coast of New Holland. + +162. Hesperia rafflesia, (n.s.) H. atra alis integerrimis; anticis fascia +maculari abbreviata sulphurea atomisque apicem versus subviridibus +aspersis, posticis rotundatis fascia basali ovali sulphurea abbreviata, +caudata corporis fascia media sulphurea ano palpisque vivide rufis. + +Obs. This beautiful species I have named after Sir Stamford Raffles, to +whose scientific ardour and indefatigable exertions in Java and Sumatra, +every Naturalist must feel himself indebted. + +The undersides of the wings are spotted like the upper, the only +difference being, that round the whole disc of the four wings there runs +a band of ashy-green atoms. The antennae and feet are black, and the +breast whitish. The vivid colour of the yellow spots on the velvety black +of the wings distinguish it at once from every known species. + +163. Urania orontes. Godart. Enc. Meth. 9 710. 4. +Var. alis atro-viridibus, anticis fasciis duabus posticis +cupreo-viridibus, unica lata. + +Obs. This beautiful variety of an insect hitherto described as peculiar +to Java and Amboyna was found in immense numbers, flitting among a grove +of Pandanus trees, growing on the banks of a stream near the extremity of +Cape Grafton, upon the North-east Coast of New Holland. See volume 2. + +164. Agarista agricola. Don. Ins. of New Holland. +Agarista picta. Leach, Zool. Misc. volume 1 table 15 +-- Godart. Enc. Meth. 9 803. 2. + +Obs. As Donovan described and figured this insect many years before Dr. +Leach, his name has the right of priority. + +165. Sphinx latreillii (n.s.) S. alis integris; superis +griseo-flavescentibus atomis brunneis aspersis, punctis duobus nigris +basalibus et fasciis quatuor obscuris subapicalibus, inferis +griseo-nigrescentibus apicem versos subflavescentibus. +Dielophila Latreillii. De Cerisy manuscripts. + +Obs. The underside of the four wings is very pale, of a yellowish-gray +colour, traversed by a line of blackish points, which indeed are +dispersed very generally over the whole surface. The disk of the upper +wings is rather blacker than the rest. The head and thorax are of the +colour of the wings, their sides and the conical abdomen being rather +lighter. The antennae are ciliated, whitish above, and brownish beneath. + +166. Sphinx godarti (n.s.) S. abdomine griseo linea media longitudinali +guttulisque lateralibus nigrescentibus, alis integris; superis +griseo-nigrescentibus maculis irregularibus nigris punctoque medio albo, +inferis griseo-flavescentibus fasciis tribus nigris. +Dielophila Godarti. De Cerisy manuscripts. + +Obs. All the wings are of a gray colour beneath, the fringe being +alternately white and brown. The thorax is gray, with a narrow, tawny, +transverse mark, a lateral white fascia, two black curved marks, and on +the hinder part a black spot. The body beneath is of a whitish colour. + +167. Macroglossum kingii (n.s.) M. capite thoraceque viridibus, abdomine +nigro flavoque variegato, alis integris hyalinis subtus ad originem +flavis, superis basin versus brunneis pilis viridescentibus obtectis +costa limboque posteriori brunneis, inferis ad originem limbumque +internum brunneo-viridescentibus. +Macroglossum kingii. De Cerisy manuscripts. + +Obs. The antennae of this beautiful species are black, very slender at +the base, and thick towards the extremity. The palpi are greenish above +and white beneath. The breast is white in the middle, and yellow at the +sides. The two first segments of the abdomen are, on the upper side, gray +in the middle, and yellow on the sides; the third segment is black, with +a part of the anterior edge yellowish towards the side; the fourth +segment is entirely black, having only a white fringe on its anterior +edge; the fifth segment is of an orange yellow, with the middle black; +the sixth segment is entirely yellow, and the whole abdomen is terminated +by a pencil of hairs, which are yellow at their base, and black at the +extremity. The thighs are whitish, with the tibiae and tarsi yellow. + +168. Cossus nebulosus. Don. Insects of New Holland. + +169. Euprepia crokeri (n.s.) E. alba antennis fuscis, cavite nigro +bipunctato, thorace linea transversa miniata antice punctis quatuor et +postice duodecim nigris, alis testaceo-fuscis, superis ad basin albis +punctis axillaribus tribus atris maculisque duabus mediis hyalinis, +abdomine supra miniato subtus albo lateribus duplici serie punctorum +nigrorum notatis, pedibus chermesinis. +Euprepia crokeri. Captain P.P. King manuscripts. + +Obs. This lovely insect, of which two specimens were taken at sea, has +been named by Captain King after John Wilson Croker, Esquire, M.P., and +First Secretary of the Admiralty. + +170. Noctua cyathina (n.s.) N. fusco-grisea subtus pallidior, alis +superis linea transversa fusca sub-undata aliisque marginalibus obscuris +fascia apicem versus fulva undata intus lineola fusca terminata, ad +marginem externum dilatata, limbo punctorum serie vix marginato, subtus +fascia alba, posteris supra apicem versus nigris fascia media maculisque +tribus marginalibus albis, subtus macula marginali pallidiori margine +nigro punctato. + +Order HOMOPTERA. + +171. Cicada australasiae. Don. Ins. of New Holland. + +172. Cicada zonalis (n.s.) C. capite thoraceque flavis, hoc macularum +fascia nigrarum punctisque posticis variegato, abdomine atro fascia +antica rubra analibusque tribus albis, lamellis basalibus subviridibus, +elytris hyalinis costis viridibus pedibusque testaceis. + +Order HEMIPTERA. + +173. Scutellera banksii. Don. Ins. of New Holland. + +Obs. This insect varies so much in colour, that I almost think it to be +the same species with the following S. cyanipes, Fab. + +174. Scutellera cyanipes. +Tetyra cyanipes. Fab. Syst. Rhyng. 133. 23. + +175. Scutellera imperialis. +Tetyra imperialis. Fab. Syst. Rhyng. 128. 1. + +176. Scutellera corallifera (n.s.) S. supra cyanea linea verticali nigra +thorace antice aurato, scutello ad basin macula transversa rubra, corpore +subtus nigro-cyaneo pectoris lateribus auratis abdominis lateribus rubris +anoque viridi, pedibus rubris tibiis tarsisque nigro-cyaneis. + +177. Scutellera pagana. +Tetyra pagana. Fab. Syst. Rhyng. 134. 29. + +178. Pentatoma caelebs. +Cimex caelebs. Fab. Ent. Syst. 4 111. 119. + +179. Pentatoma elegans. +Cimex elegans. Don. Ins. of New Holland. + +180. Lygaeus regalis (n.s.) L. capite rubro, antennis nigris, thorace +flavo-marginato antice lineis alba nigraque transverse notato, scutello +nigro, elytris flavis macula media parteque apicali membranacea nigris, +corpore subtus fulvo lateribus albo-lineatis pedibus nigro-brunneis. + +Order DIPTERA. + +181. Stratiomys hunteri (n.s.) S. nigro-brunnea tomentosa, post-scutello +flavo, abdomine supra nigro maculis utrinque basin versus duabus +viridibus, subtus viridi, pedibus flavis. +Stratiomys hunteri. Captain P.P. King manuscripts. + +Obs. This insect has been named by Captain King after Mr. James Hunter, +the surgeon of the Mermaid. + +182. Asilus inglorius (n.s.) A. obscuro-luteus abdomine ad basin pilis +flavis hirsuto, alis flavo-hyalinis apice obscurioribus, pedibus rufis +geniculis tarsisque nigris. + +183. Tabanus guttatus. Don. Ins. of New Holland. + +184. Tabanus cinerescens (n.s.) T. cinereo-ferrugineus subtus albescens, +alis hyalinis basin versus subluteis, abdomine linea media maculisque +quatuor utrinque cinereis. + +185. Pangonia roei. (n.s.) P. rostro brevi tota ferruginea nitida, +abdomine subtus testaceo alis fulvo-hyalinis apice margineque exteriori +saturatioribus fasciisque duabus mediis obscuris marginalibus. +Pangonia roei. Captain P.P. King manuscripts. + +Obs. This insect has been named after Lieutenant John S. Roe, R.N.; one +of the assistant-surveyors of the expedition. + +186. Anthrax prae-argentatus (n.s.) A. supra niger pilis flavescentibus +tomentosus subtus albidus, ore albo, pedibus nigris, alis +brunneo-hyalinis margine exteriori saturatioribus apice albis. + +187. Anthrax bombyliformis (n.s.) A. nigro-bmnneus post-scutello +ferrugineo, abdomine supra ad basin fulvo apice albo fasciaque media +fusca, subtus albo pedibus atro-brunneis alis hyalinis basi margineque +exteriori fuscis maculisque aliquot discoidalibus. + +188. Musca splendida. Don. Ins. of New Holland. + +Class ARACHNIDA. + +189. Nephila cunninghamii (n.s.) N. thorace sericeo cinereo, geniculis +incrassatis pedibus nigro-fulvis, tibiarum primo et postremo pari +flavo-annulatis. +Nephila cunninghamii. Captain P.P. King manuscripts. + +Named after Mr. Allan Cunningham, the botanist of the expedition. + +Obs. The genus Nephila has been very properly separated from Epeira by +Dr. Leach in the Zoological Miscellany. + +190. Uloborus canus (n.s.) U. albescens thorace convexo, pedum pari +secundo longiori, femoribus nigro-punctatis. + +191. Linyphia deplanata (n.s.) L. rufo-testacea mandibulis pedibusque +apicem versus nigris, thorace sub-circulari plano, pedum secundo pari +longiori. + +Obs. The principal difference of this spider from the genus Linyphia, as +characterized by Latreille, consists in the circumstance of the two +largest of the four middle eyes being the posterior ones. The palpi of +the male are in this species each provided with a spiral screw resembling +the tendril of a vine. + +192. Thomisus morbillosus (n.s.) T. pedibus quatuor primis longioribus, +cinereus thorace macula postica sublunari magna viridifusca, pedibus +sub-geminatim fusco maculatis. + +... + +CIRRIPEDES. + +Anatifera sulcata. Gray, Ann. Phil. 1825. +Pentalasmis sulcata, Leach. +Montague, Test. Brit. + +... + +RADIATA. + +CENTRONIA. + +1. Echinus ovum ? Peron and Lesueur. Lam. Hist. 3 48. + +This specimen, presented to the Museum, agrees very well with the short +description given by Lamarck of this species. + +2. Echinus variolaris. Lam. Hist. 3 47. + +This specimen, agreeing very well with the description of one found by +Peron, is very remarkable; and has the larger area agrulate and +ornamented with two rows of white tubercles, nearly as large as those in +the genus Cidaris; the pores in the upper part are not perforated, and +are placed in segments of circles round small tubercles. + +3. Echinometra lucunter. +Echinus lucunter. Gmel. Sys. Nat. 1 3176. +Icon. Ency. Method. t. 134. f. 3, 4, 7. + +ANOMALIA. + +Physalia megalista ? Peron Voyage 1 Lam. Hist. 2 481. +Icon. Peron, Voyage Atlas, t. 29. f. 1. + +No specimen of this animal was preserved, but Captain King observes, that +the animal he caught, of which he made a drawing, differed from Lesueur's +figure of P. megalista, in being of smaller size, and with fewer tints; +the colour of the tentacula was a brighter purple tipped with yellow +globules, and the crest of a greenish hue, but the general colour of the +animal was purple. It measured from three-quarters to one inch in length. +Captain King considered it to be a variety of P. megalista. + +Porpita gigantea. Peron, Voyage 2. Lam. Hist. 2 485. +Icon. Peron and Lesueur, Atlas, t. 31. f. 6. + +A very beautiful and accurate drawing of this curious animal was made by +Lieutenant Roe. M. Lesueur's figure is also very correctly drawn. + +ACRITA. + +ZOOPHYTA. + +1. Tubipora musica. Gmel. Syst. Nat. 1 3753. Lam. Hist. 2 209. +Icon. Seba. Mus. 3 t. 110. f. 8, 9. Soland. and Ellis. t. 27. + +According to Peron, the animals of this coral are furnished with +green-fringed tentacula. + +2. Pavonia lactuca, Lam. Hist. 2 239. +Madrepora lactuca, Pallas, Zooph. 289. +Icon. Soland, and Ellis, t. 44. + +3. Explanaria mesenterina, Lam. Hist. il. 255. +Madrepora cinerascens, Soland. and Ellis. +Icon. Soland. and Ellis, Number 26. t. 43. + +4. Agaricia ampliata, Lam. Hist. 2 243. +Madrepora ampliata, Soland. and Ellis, 157. +Icon. Soland. and Ellis, t. 41. f. 1, 2. + +5. Fungia agariciformis, Lam. Hist. 2 236. +Madrepora fungites, Gmel. Syst. Nat. 1 3757. +Icon. Soland. and Ellis, page 149. t. 58. f. 5, 6. + +6. Fungia limacina, Lam. Hist. 2 237. +Madrepora pileus, Gmel. Syst. Nat. 1 3758. +Icon. Soland. and Ellis, t. 45. Seba. Mus. 3 t. 111. f. 3, 5. + +7. Fungia compressa, Lam. Hist. 2 235. + +8. Caryophillia ? fastigiata, Lam. Hist. 2 228. +Madrepora fastigiata, Gmel. Syst. Nat. 1 3777. +Icon. Soland. and Ellis, t. 33. Esp. Suppl. t. 82. + +9. Porites subdigitata, Lam. Hist. 2 271. +Icon. -- + +10. Porites clavaria, Lam. Hist. 2 270. +Madrepora porites, Gmel. Syst. Nat. 1 3774. +Icon. Soland. and Ellis, t. 47. f. 1. + +11. Astrea stellulata ? Lam. Hist. 2 261. +Madrepora stellulata, Soland. and Ellis, page 165. +Icon. Soland. and Ellis. t. 53. f. 3, 4. + +Obs. The stars in this specimen are more numerous, and do not perforate. + +12. Madrepora prolifera. Lam. Hist. 2 281. +Madrepora muricata, Gmel. Syst. 1 3775. +Icon. Soland. and Ellis, t. 57. + +13. Madrepora abrotanoides, Lam. Hist. 2 280. +Madrepora muricata, Gmel. Sys. Nat. 1 3775. +Icon. Soland. and Ellis, t. 57. + +14. Seriatopora subulata, Lam. Hist. 2 282. +Madrepora seriata, Pallas. Zooph. p 336. +Madrepora lineata, Esper. Suppl. 1 t. 19. +Icon. Soland. and Ellis, t. 31. f. 1. 2. + +15. Madrepora laxa (?) Lam. Hist. 2 280. + +16. Madrepora plantaginea (?) Lam. Hist. 2 279. +Icon. Esper. Suppl. 1 t. 54. + +17. Madrepora corymbosa, Lam. Hist. 2 279. + +18. Madrepora pocillifera, Lam. Hist. 2 280. + +19. Gorgonia flabellum, Gmel. Syst. Nat. 1 3809. +Flabellum Veneris, Ellis, Corall. page 76. +Icon. Soland. and Ellis, t. 26. f. A. + +20. Galaxaria cylindrica, Lamouroux. +Corallina cylindrica, Soland. and Ellis, 114. +Icon. Soland. and Ellis, t. 22. f. 4. + +21. Spongia muricina (?) Lam. Hist. 2 369. Number 74. +Icon. Seba. Mus. 3 t. 97. f. 2. + +22. Spongia perfoliata, Lam. Hist. 2 370. Number 78. +Icon. -- + +23. Spongia basta, Pallas. Zooph. 379. Lam. Hist. 2 371. Number 82. +Icon. -- Esper. 2 t. 25. + +24. Spongia alcicornis, Esper. Lam. Hist. 2 380. Number l26. +Icon. -- Esper. 2 page 248. t. 28. + +25. Spongia spiculifera ? Lam. Hist. 2 376. Number 106. +Icon. -- + +Three or four other species of Spongia were brought home, which I have +not been able to identify with all of Lamarck's descriptions, or with any +figures; but as this author has described many species from the +collection of Peron and Lesueur, which have not hitherto been figured, I +have not considered them as new, until I have had an opportunity of +examining more New Holland species, and of seeing those described by +Lamarck. + +... + + +MOLLUSCA. + +BY JOHN EDWARD GRAY, ESQUIRE, F.G.S. + +1. CONCHOPHORA. + +1. Solenomya australis. +Solemya Australis, Lam. Hist. 5 489. +Mya marginipectinata, Peron and Lesueur. + +2. Mactra abbreviata ? Lam. Hist. 5 477. n. 20. +Icon. -- + +This collection contains a considerable number of specimens of a shell +agreeing with the short specific character given by Lamarck of the above; +but as it has not been figured, I have referred to it with a mark of +doubt. The shells are rather solid, white, or white variegated with +purple, with numerous concentric wrinkles, which are more distinct nearer +the margin; the umbones, covered with a thin pale periostraca, nearly +smooth and polished, with a small purple spot, the inside white, with the +disk and posterior slope purple; the anterior and posterior slopes +distinct, the lunule and escutcheon deeply and distinctly sulcated; +length fourteen-tenths of an inch; height one inch. + +3. Mactra ovalina, Lam. Hist. 5 477. + +This shell is nearly of the same shape as the last, but the anterior +slope is rounded and circumscribed, and the posterior only marked by a +raised line in the periostraca. The shell is thin, white; with a pale +brown and deeply grooved escutcheon. + +4. Solen truncatus, Wood. Conch. +Solen ceylonensis, Leach, Zool. Misc. 1 22. table 7. +Solen vagina, b. Lam. Hist. 5 451. +Icon. Wood. Conch. t. 26. f. 3. 4. Ency. Method. t. 222. f. 1. + +5. Cardium tenuicostatum, Lam. Hist. 6 5. +Icon. -- + +The shell when perfect is white, with rose-coloured umbones; the rose +colour is often extended down the centre of the shell, forming concentric +zones. + +6. Lucina divaricata, Lam. Hist. 5 541. +Tellina divaricata, Gmel. Sys. Nat. 1 3241. +Icon. Chemn. Conch. 6 134. t. 13. f. 129. + +7. Venerupis galactites, nob. +Venus galactites, Lam. Hist. 5 599. +Icon. -- + +The fact of Lamarck having placed in the genus Venus this shell, which a +modern conchologist has considered as a variety of Venerupis perforans, +shows the very great affinity that exists between those genera. + +8. Venus flammiculata ? Lam. Hist. 5 605. +Icon. -- + +This shell is pale yellowish, with irregular, large, distinct, concentric +ridges, and distinctly radiated striae; the umbones smooth, polished, +orange-yellow; the lozenge lanceolate, purple; the inside golden-yellow; +the anterior and posterior dorsal margins purple. + +9. Venus tessellata (n.s.) +Testa ovato-oblonga, albida, lineis purpureis angulatis picta; sulcis +concentricis, ad latus posteriorem lamellatis; marginibus integerrimis. +Icon. -- + +Shell ovate-oblong, white, polished, with rows of square purple spots, +forming regular lines, with the points directed toward the back of the +shell; covered with many distinct, nearly equal, concentric, smooth +ridges; the front part of the ridges somewhat elevated, thin, hinder part +distinctly lamellar and much elevated: the lunule subulate, lanceolate; +the edge quite entire; umbones with a purple spot; inside white, except +on the anterior and posterior dorsal edges, which are purple; length +eight-tenths, height six-tenths of an inch. + +There are two other specimens of this shell in the Museum which do not +agree with any that Lamarck describes; one of these being fourteen-tenths +of an inch long, and one inch high, is double the size of Captain King's +specimen; its habitation is not marked, but the other specimen is from +Ceylon. + +10. Cytherea kingii (n.s.) +Testa ovato-cordata, tumida, albida, concentrice substriata, radiata, +radiis flavicantibus; lunula lanceolato-cordata; intus albida. + +Shell ovate, heart-shaped, white or pale brown, with darker brown rays, +each formed of several narrow lines, the umbones white, the edge quite +entire; the lunule lanceolate heart-shaped, obscurely defined, the centre +rather prominent; inside white, the hinge margin rather broad. + +This shell is very like Cytherea loeta, but differs from it in its +markings, as well as its outline, which is more orbicular. The specimen +given to the Museum by Captain King, is one inch long, and eight-tenths +of an inch high; but there is another specimen in the collection, from +the Tankerville cabinet (Number 288) which is twice that size. + +11. Cytherea gibba. +Cytherea gibbia, Lam. Hist. 5 577. +Icon. Chemn. 7 t. 39. f. 415. 416. + +12. Petricola rubra ? Cardium rubrum ? Montague. + +This shell agrees in general form, teeth, and colour, with the Cardium +rubrum of Montagu, but it is larger. It was found imbedded in the seaweed +and spongy-like substance that covers the Tridacna squamosa. + +13. Chama limbula, Lam. Hist. 6 95. + +This shell may, perhaps, be a variety of Chama gryphoides. + +14. Tridacna gigas, Lam. Hist. 6 pt. 1. 105. +Chama Gigas, Gmel. Syst. Nat. 1 3299. +Icon. Chemn. 7 t. 49. f. 495. Ency. Meth. plate 235. f. 1. + +15. Pectunculus radians ? Lam. Hist. 6 54. + +16. Arca scapha, Lam. Hist. 6 42. +Icon. Chemn. 7 201. t. 55. f. 548. Ency. Meth. plate 306. f. 1. a, b. + +17. Mytilus erosus, Lam. Hist. 6 pt. 1 120. + +This shell was described by Lamarck from some New Holland specimens, that +were probably collected by Peron in Baudin's voyage. It is remarkable for +being very thick and solid, and of a fine dark colour, with only a narrow +white band on the anterior basal edge. The edge is crenated, and the +muscular impressions are very distinct, and raised above the surface, +particularly that on the anterior valve, which is both pellucid and +tubercular. + +18. Modiola (Tulipa ?) australis, Nob. +Modiola tulipa, var. 1. Lam. Hist. 6 pt. 1 111. + +This Australian species will most probably prove to be distinct from the +American kind; but the specimen before me does not afford sufficient +materials to separate it, since there is only one water-worn valve in the +collection. It is not so distinctly rayed as M. tulipa, and the inside is +entirely of a brilliant pearly purple, except near the anterior basal +edge. + +19. Lithophagus caudatus, nob. +Modiola caudigera, Lam. Hist. 6 pt. 1 116. +Icon. Ency. Meth. plate 221. f. 8. a, b. + +20. Meleagrina albida, var. a. Lam. Hist. 6 pt. 1 152. + +This appears to be a distinct species from those found in the Gulf of +Mexico and the West Indies, but the difference is not easy to describe. +The specimens before me, which are small, differ materially from some of +the same size among the American species. The outside is of a dull +greenish-purple colour, with a few distant membranaceous laminae which +are only slightly lobed, and not extended into long processes like those +of Avicula radiata (Zool. Misc. 1. t. 43.) which is the young of the +American kind. The internal pearly coat has a bright yellow tinge. + +21. Spondylus radians ? Lam. Hist. 6 pt. 1 192. +Icon. Chemn. Conch. 7 t. 45. f. 469. 470. Ency. Meth. plate 191. f. 5. + +22. Pecten maximus ? Lam. Hist. 6 pt. 1 163. +Ostrea maxima, Gmel. Syst. Nat. 1 3315. +Icon. Chemn. Conch. 7 t. 60. f. 585. Ency. Meth. plate 209. f. 1. a, b. + +The shell before me is probably distinct from the above species, but is +too much worn down to be separated from it; in its present state it seems +to agree tolerably well with the species to which it has been referred. + +23. Pecten asperrimus, Lam. Hist. 6 pt. 1 174. + +This beautiful species was originally found by MM. Peron and Lesueur on +the coast of Van Diemen's Land. + +24. Lima minuta (n.s.) + +Testa ovato-oblonga valde tumida clausa radiatim costata, costis +transverse costato-striatis, auriculis minutis, margine crenato. + +This shell, which was brought up by the deep sea sounding-lead, being +only one-sixth of an inch long, and one-fourth high, is the smallest +species of the genus. It is white, ovate, oblong, turned and closed at +the ends; the surface is deeply radiately ribbed; the ribs are +concentrically rib-striated, which gives their sides a denticulated +appearance; the edge is crenulated, and the umbones are acute, a small +distance apart, and nearly in the centre of the hinge margin, which is +straight. + +25. Pinna dolabrata, Lam. Hist. 6 pt. 1 133. +Pinna bicolor, Chemn. Conch. Cab. t. 90. f. 234. +Icon. Chemn. 8 t. 90. f. 780 ? + +The shell, figured by Chemnitz, appears to be a variety of this species +with the anterior end uncurved, which has most probably been caused by +some injury on the anterior basal edge. + +The species is peculiar for its yellow pearly internal coat, and purplish +rays. + + +2. COCHLEOPHORA. + +26. Trochus caerulescens. Lam. Hist. 7 18. +Icon. Ency. Meth. plate 444. f. 2. a, b. +Inhab. South-west Coast. + +Lamarck describes this shell from a specimen found by Peron. + +27. Trochus noduliferus, Lam. Hist. 7 18. + +28. Monodonta conica (n.s.) + +Testa conica, acuta, imperforata, spiraliter striflto-costata, rufa; +costis subtuberculatis, albo-nigro-articulatis; apertura sulcata. +Inhab. -- Mus. Brit. + +Shell conical, axis longer than the diameter, the whorl flattened with +six spiral raised substriae, which are transversely divided into blackish +purple beads with white interspaces, the apex rather acute; the base, +rather convex, axis imperforated; the aperture subquadrangular, inside +furrowed; the base of the columella lip with a prominent tooth and +distinct groove behind it, the upper part rugose; axis eight-twelfths, +diameter six-twelfths of an inch. This shell does not appear to be +uncommon on the coast of Australia. + +29. Monodonta uranulata (n.s.) + +Testa depresso-conica, umbilicata, purpurea, albomarmorata, spiraliter +papillata; papillis quadri-seriatis, umbilico laevi; infima facie +papillata, apertura sulcata. + +Inhab. Mus. Brit. + +Shell rather depressed, conical, purple variegated with white, generally +concentrically wrinkled, and ornamented with granulated spiral ribs, the +ribs of the upper part of the last, and of all the other whorls rather +distant, and forming four series; those of the under part rather closer, +and smaller. The axis unbilicated, smooth, the aperture roundish, the +outer lips furrowed, the columella lip smooth with a groove at its base, +axis four-twelfths, diameter five-twelfths of an inch. + +30. Monodonta denticulata (n.s.) +Testa depresso-conica, umbilicata, rufa, nigro punctata, spiraliter +sulcata, subgranulata, umbilico extus crenato. + +Inhab. -- Mus. Brit. + +Shell depressed, conical, pale reddish, ornamented with rows of white and +brown spots, spirally grooved, ribs slightly granulated; the sutures +distinct, impressed, the lower part of the last whorl nearly smooth, the +umbilicus white, smooth inside, the edge furnished with a series of +granules. The mouth subquadrangular, outer lip crenulated at the edge, +the columella lip smooth, with a large tooth at the inside, and a little +roughness on the outer side; axis three-tenths, diameter five-twelfths of +an inch. + +31. Monodonta constricta, Lam. Hist. 7 36. + +32. Monodonta rudis (n.s.) + +Testa ovato-conica imperforata ulbido-purpurea rudis crassa, labro +duplicato, extus albido viridi, intus subsulcato, albo. + +Inhab. -- Mus. Brit. + +Shell ovate, conical, imperfurated, rough, pearly, concentrically +striated, whitish-brown; when worn or where eroded, purple; the whorls +convex, suture distinct, sometimes occupying an impressed line on the +lower whorl; the base rather convex, the aperture roundish, the axis +(imperforate) covered with a white callus, which leaves a slight +concavity over its end; the outer lip of three colours, the outer part +purple or green and white, the middle pearly, and the inner opaque, +white, and furrowed; the surface of the lower part of the last whorl is +frequently worn away just opposite the mouth, so as to leave a purple +spot. + +33. Rissoa clathrata (n.s.) + +Testa subglobosa, subimperforata, alba, solida, spiraliter et concentrice +costata; apertura suborbiculari, sutura impressa. + +Shell nearly globular, spire conical, upper whorls with three, lower with +seven distinct, large, rather separate, much raised, spiral ribs, and +numerous acute transverse ribs, which form an acute tubercle where it +crosses the spiral ridges, the suture deeply impressed, very distinct, +the aperture nearly orbicular, the outer lip denticulated on its outer +edge, inner lip smooth, column without any perforation, only a slight +linear cavity behind the inner lip, axis and diameter each one-sixth of +an inch. + +This shell is allied to Littorina muricata (Turbo muricata, Lin.) in its +general form and the shape of its umbilicus, but is white and ribbed like +Rissoa cimex (Turbo cimex, Lin.) R. calathriscus, the Turbo calathriscus +of Montague. + +34. Solarium biangulatum (n.s.) + +Testa orbiculato-conica subdepressa albida spiraliter sub-striata rufo +variegata, anfractibus biangulatis supra planis infra convexis, umbilico +pervio edentulo. + +Shell orbicular conical; spire rather depressed; whorls five spirally +striated; upper part flattened, expanded, white with numerous diverging +red cross lines; centre flat, nearly at right angles with the upper edge, +white, with a convex thread-like rib round its base, which is distantly +articulated; base of the whorls convex, red, punctured and variegated +with white; axis conical, concave, white, smooth at the commencement; +aperture subquadrangular; inside pearly, inner lip with an obscure tooth +at the end of the umbilicus; axis one-fourth, diameter one-third, of an +inch. + +35. Turbo setosus, Gmel. Sys. Nat. 3594. Lam. Hist. 7 42. +Icon. Chemn. 5 t. 181. f. 1795, 1796. + +36. Turbo torquatus, Gmel. 3597. Lam. Hist. 7 40. +Icon. Chemn. 10 293. figure 24. f. A. B. + +37. Phasianella varia, Lam. Ency. Meth. plate 449. f. 1. a. b. c. +Phasianella bulimoides, Lam. Hist. 7 52. +Buccinum Australe, Gmel. Syst. Nat. 1 3490. +Icon. Chemn. 9 t. 120. f. 1033, 1034. + +38. Phasianella pulchra (n.s.) + +Testa minuta oblique conica tenuis pellucida linea albida opaca et +fasciis coccineis ornata, anfractibus valde convexis. + +Shell minute, obliquely conical, thin, pellucid, variegated with spiral +opaque white intercepted striae and several transverse scarlet bands +formed of oblique lines; axis, imperforated, one-sixth, diameter +one-eighth, of an inch. + +This shell is somewhat like P. pullus, Turbo pullus of Montague, but the +whorls are more convex, and it is rather differently marked. + +39. Scalaria australis, Lam. Hist. 6 pt. 2. 228. +Icon. -- + +40. Scalaria tenuis (n.s.) + +Testa conica umbillcata tenuis pellucida albida unifasciata, costis albis +tenuibus ereberrimis parum elevatis laevibus, anfractibus contiguis. + +Shell conical, thin, pellucid, whitish-brown, with a narrow central +spiral brown band; whorls contiguous, convex, smooth, with numerous close +oblique slightly raised, thin, simple-edged cross ribs; axis umbilicated; +umbilicus narrow; mouth small, ovate, orbicular; axis three-eighths, +diameter one-fourth of an inch. + +This shell is most like Scalaria principalis, nob. Turbo principalis of +Pallas, Chemn. 11 t. 195, f. 1876, 1877. The shell before me is most +probably a young specimen. + +41. Delphinula laciniata, Lam. Hist. 6 pt. 2. 230. +Turbo Delphinus, Gmel. Syst. Nat. 1 3599. +Icon. Lister. Conch. t. 608. f. 45. + +This shell was found at low water upon the Coral Reefs, in the entrance +of Prince Regent's River, on the North-west Coast. + +42. Nerita atrata, Lam. Hist. 6 pt. 2. 191. +Icon. Chemn. Conch. 5 t. 190. f. 1954, 1955. + +43. Nerita textilis, Gmelin. Syst. Nat. 3683. +Icon. Chemn. 5 190, f. 1944, 1945. + +44. Natica mamilla, Lam. Hist. 6 pt. 2. 197. +Nerita mamilla, Gmel. Syst. Nat. 3672. +Icon. Lister Conch. t. 571. f. 22. Enc. Meth. plate 453. f. 5. a. b. + +45. Natica alba, n. +Icon. Chemn. 5 t. 189. f. 1922. 1923. + +46. Natica conica, Lam. Hist. 6 pt. 2. 198. +Icon. Chemn. 5 t. 189. f. 1930. 1931. + +47. Littorina australis (n.s.) + +Testa ovata, conica fulva rudis spiraliter striata sulcata, spira acuta, +fauce livida. + +Shell ovate, conical, fulvous-brown, rough, with numerous impressed +spiral lines; the spire acute, the whorls rather convex, last slightly +angular, the columella lip purplish-brown; axis solid, with a lunate +concavity behind the usual situation of the umbilicus. + +48. Littorina unifasciata (n.s.) + +Testa ovato-conica imperforata purpureo-albida laevigata, anfractibus +convexis ultimo subangulato, apertura purpurea unifasciata. +Icon. -- + +Shell ovate conical, nearly smooth, with only a few concentric ridges, +and distant, scarcely impressed, very narrow, grooves; white or +purplish-white outside; the whorls rather convex, last one slightly +angular in front; mouth ovate; throat purple or purplish-black with a +distinct broad white spiral band just below the slight external keel; +inner lip purple with a deep concavity behind it; spire acute half the +length of the shell; axis 8/12, diameter 6/12, of an inch. + +This shell has somewhat the shape of Littorina zigzag, the Trochus zigzag +of Montague, but is all of one colour externally and has a much shorter +spire. + +49. Cerithium palustre, Brug. Dict. n. 19. Lam. Hist. 7 66. +Strombus palustris, Gmel. Syst. Nat. 3521. Number 38. +Icon. Lister. Conch. t. 836. f. 62. t. 837. f. 63. Seba, 3 t. 50. f. 13. +14. 17-19. Martini Conch. 4 t. 156. f. 1472. + +50. Cerithium ebeninum, Brug. Dict. n. 26. Lam. Hist. 7 67. +Icon. Chem. Conch. 10 t. 162. f. 1548, 1549. Ency. Meth. t. 442. f. 1. a, +b. + +51. Cerithium morus, Lam. Hist. 7 75. not Brug. +Icon. Lister. t. 1024. f. 90 ? + +52. Cerithium lima ? Lam. Hist. 7 77. Brug. Number 33. + +A broken shell apparently of this species was brought home, but when a +more perfect specimen is round, it may prove to be distinct from it. + +53. Cerithium perversum ? Lam. Hist. 7 77. + +54. Nassa fasciata, n. +Buccinum fasciatum, Lam. Hist. 7 271. + +55. Nassa suturalis, n. +Buccinum suturale, Lam. Hist. 7 269 ? + +56. Nassa mutabilis, n. +Buccinum mutabile, Gmel. Syst. Nat. 3481. Lam. Hist. 7 269. +Icon. List. t. 975. f. 30. Born. t. 9. f. 13. Chemn. Conch. 11 t. 188. f. +1810, 1811. + +57. Nassa livida (n.s.) +Testa ovato-conica superne transverse plicata basi spiraliter striata +purpureo-livida obscure castaneo bifasciata, anfractibus convexiusculis, +sutura linea alba notata, labro extus marginato intus sulcato. + +Icon. -- + +Shell ovate conical, livid purplish-white, with one or two central, +obscure brown, bands; upper whorls bluntly transversely plaited, the rest +smooth, livid, except at the front part of the last, just over the +groove, where it is spirally striated; the suture distinct (not +channelled) marked by a white line; the inner lip distinct, raised, the +outer thickened on the outer side, edge sharp, inside grooved; the throat +fulvous-brown; axis one inch, diameter half an inch. + +This shell belongs to the group of Nassa, but will perhaps form a +distinct genus intermediate between it and Columbella, characterized by +the narrow form of the mouth. It is most nearly allied to N. olivacea, n. +(Bucc. olivaceum, Lam.) and N. canaliculata, n. (Bucc. canaliculatum, +Lam.) + +58. Clavatula striata (n.s.) + +Testa ovato-lanceolata turrita albida regulariter spiraliter +sulcato-striata transverse et interrupte costata, anfractuum margine +superiore angulato subnodoso, cauda brevi, fauce sulcata. + +Icon. -- + +Shell ovate turreted, whitish-brown, with eleven or twelve longitudinal +interrupted ribs forming long tubercles on the centre of the whorls; the +whorls with distant impressed spiral lines near the suture, with a rather +flattened slightly nodulose band; the mouth rather more than one-third +the length of the shell; outer lip thin inside, grooved; tail short, with +a linear depression on its columella side; axis ten-twelfths, diameter +four-twelfths of an inch. + +59. Cassis achatina, var. Lam. Hist. 7 226. + +A worn specimen, apparently a variety of this species. It is entirely +smooth, polished, and has the last whorl near the spire slightly concave, +edged with a scarcely raised rather nodulous line, the outer lip is very +thick, grooved on its inner edge, and the columella is distinctly +plaited. + +It may perhaps prove to be a new kind; but the species of this genus are +so exceedingly apt to vary, that I do not wish to increase the number of +the already too much extended lists of Lamarck and others. + +60. Cassis flammea. Lam. Hist. 7 220. +Cassidea flammea, Brug. Dict. n. 13. +Buccinum flammeum, Lin. Sys. Nat. 1199. Gmel. 3473. +Icon. Lister. t. 1004. f. 69. et t. 1005. f. 72. Martini Conch. 2 t. 34. +f. 353. 354. + +61. Dolium variegatum, Lam. Hist. 7 261. +Icon. -- + +62. Purpura haemastoma, Lam. Hist. 7 238. +Buccinum haemastoma, Lin. Syst. Nat. 1202. Gmel. 3483. +Icon. Lister. t. 988. f. 48. Martini Conch. 3 t. 101. f. 964, 965. + +63. Murex adustus ? Lam. Hist. 7 162. +Icon. Seba. Mus. ili. t. 77. f. 9. 10. Martini Conch. 3 t. 105. f. 990, +991. + +This shell agrees very well with the description of Lamarck, except that +the whole edge of the mouth is of a fine rose-red colour. + +64. Tritonium tranquebaricum, n. +Triton tranquebaricum, Lam. Hist. 7 189. +Icon. Ency. Meth. t. 422. f. 6. + +65. Tritonium australe, n. +Triton australe, Lam. Hist. 7 179. +Murex tritonium australe, Chemn. Conch. 11. +Icon. Chemn. 11 t. 194. f. 1867, 1868. + +66. Ranella leucostoma, Lam. Hist. 7 150. +Icon. -- + +This shell is very like Triton scobinator, Lam.; and the varices, like +it, neither form a complete series, nor are they alternate, so that it +does not agree exactly with the characters of either genus. + +67. Fusus verrucosus, n. +Murex verrucosus, Gmel. Syst. Nat. 3557. +Icon. Martini. 4 t. 146. f. 1349, 1356. + +68. Conus achatinus, Brug. Dict. n. 66. Lam. Hist. 7 480. +Icon. Chemn. 10 t. 142. f. 1317. Ency. Method. t. 380. f. 6. + +69. Conus puncturatus. Brug. Dict. n. 35. Lam. Hist. 1 460. +Icon. Ency. Meth. t. 322. f. 9. + +70. Conus maurus (n.s.) +Testa turbinata coronata albida zonis duabus fuscis, spira subdepressa +mucronata, faute albida zonis duabus purpureis notata. +Icon. -- + +Shell very plain, top-shaped, crowned, and whitish, with two brown bands; +spire rather depressed; crowned, blunt; the epidermis pale +greenish-brown; the inside white, with two broad blue bands, in the front +of which is enclosed the canal; axis one and a half, diameter one inch. + +71. Cypraea arabica, Gmel. Syst. Nat. 1 3398. Lam. Hist. 7 378. Gray, +Zool. Journal 1 76. +Icon. Lister. Conch. t. 658. f. 3. Martini. 1 t. 31. f. 328. Ency. Meth. +t. 352 f. 1, 2. + +72. Cypraea tigris, Gmel. Syst. Nat. 1 3408. Lam. Hist. 7 382. Gray, +Zool. Journal 1 367. +Icon. Lister. Conch. t. 682. f. 29. Martini 1 t. 24. f. 232-234. Ency. +Meth. t. 353. f. 3. + +The shells of this species that are found on the North-east Coast of +Australia are generally of a very pale colour, with only scattered +markings. + +73. Cypraea mauritiana, Gmel. Syst. Nat. 3407. Lam. Hist. 7 377. Gray, +Zool. Jour. 1 79. +Icon. Lister. Conch. t. 703. f. 52. Martini 1 t. 30. f. 317-319. Ency. +Meth. t. 350. f. 2. a. b. + +74. Cypraea lynx, Gmel. Syst. Nat. 3409. Lam. Hist. 7 388. Oray, Zool. +Journal 1 151. +Cypraea venelli, Gmel. 3402. +Cypraea squalina, Gmel. 3420. +Icon. Lister. Conch. t. 683. f. 30. Martini 1 t. 23. f. 230, 231. Ency. +Meth. t. 355. f. 8. a. b. + +75. Cypraea annulus, Gmel. Syst. Nat. 3415. Lam. Hist. 7 402. Gray, Zool. +Journal 1 494. +Icon. Martini Conch. 1 t. 24. f. 239. 240. Ency. Meth. t. 356. f. 7. + +76. Cypraea obvelata, Lam. Hist. 7 401. Gray, l.c. 1 493. +Icon. -- + +77. Cypraea moneta, Gmel. Syst. Nat. 3414. Lam. Hist. 7 401. Gray, Zool. +Journal 1 492. +Icon. Lister. Conch. t. 709. f. 59. Martini 1 t. 31. f. 337. 338. Ency. +Meth. t. 356. f. 3. + +78. Cypraea errones. Lin. Syst. Nat. 1178. Gray, l.c. 1 385. +Cypraea erronea, Gmel. Syst. Nat. 3411. +Cyprrea olivacea, b. Lam. Hist. 7 392. +Icon. Pet. Gaz. t. 97. f. 21. + +79. Cypraea caput serpentis. Lin. Syst. Nat. 1175. Gmel. 3406. Lam. Hist. +7 385. Gray, Zool. Journal 1 495. +Icon. Lister. t. 702. f. 50. et t. 704. f. 52. Martini 1 t. 33. f. 316. +Ency. Meth. 354. f. 4. + +80. Cypraea zigzag, Gmel. Syst. Nat. t. 3410. Lam. Hist. 7 394. Gray, +Zool. Journal 1 373. Cypraea undata, Lam. Ann. Mus. n. 41. +Icon. Lister. Conch. t. 661. f. 5. Martini 1 t. 23. f. 224, 225. Ency. +Meth. t. 356. f. 8. a. b. + +81. Cypraea helvola, Lin. Syst. Nat. 1130. Gmel. 3417. Lam. Hist. 7 398. +Icon. Lister. Conch. t. 691. f. 38. Martini Conch. 1 t. 30. f. 326, 327. +Ency. Meth. 356. f. 13. + +82. Cypraea nucleus, Lin. Syst. Nat. 1 1181. Gmel. 3418. Lam. Hist. 7 +400. Gray, Zool. Journal 1 515. +Icon. Born. t. 8. f. 17. Ency. Meth. t. 355. f. 3. + +83. Cypraea oniscus, Lam. Hist. 7 402. +Icon. Lister. Conch. t. 706. f. 55. Martini 1 t. 29. f. 306, 307. + +84. Cypraea australis, Lam. Hist. 7 404. +Icon. -- + +85. Mitra tabanula ? Lam. Hist. 7 323. n. 79. + +A single bleached specimen, agreeing with this description excepting in +having five instead of three or four plaits on the columella, was brought +up by the sounding line. The shell is longitudinally grooved, and very +remarkable for being furnished with numerous, rather distant, smooth, +narrow, raised spiral bands; having the inter-spaces finely spirally +striated; the nucleus of the shell, like that of a voluta, is mammillary. + +86. Mitra scutulata, Lam. Hist. 7 314. +Voluta scutulata sue discolor, Chemn. Conch. 10 Gmel. 3452. +Icon. Chemn. l.c. t. 151. f. 1428, 1429. + +Lamarck never having seen this shell has described it on the authority of +Chemnitz, whose figure agrees very well with the shell before me; +excepting that the spots round the suture form nearly a continual band at +a little distance from it; the outer lip is smooth and thin; the inside +dull livid brown; the axis is fourteen-twelfths, the diameter +seven-twelfths, of an inch. + +87. Marginella minuta (n.s.) +Testa minuta ovata fusiformis alba polita, spira conoidea obtusiuscula, +labro inflexo, columella quadriplicata. +Icon. -- + +Shell ovate, fusiform, white, polished; spire conical, nearly as long as +the aperture, rather blunt; outer lip somewhat inflexed; columella with +four distinct plaits; axis three-twelfths, diameter two-twelfths of an +inch. + +88. Strombus plicatus, Lam. Hist. 7 210. +Strombus dentatus, Gmel. Syst. Nat. 3519. +Icon. Rumph. Mus. t. 37. f. T. Pet. Amb. t. 14. f. 21. Schroet. Einl. in +Conch. 1 t. 2. f. 12. Ency. Meth. t. 408. f. 2. a. b. + +89. Strombus urceus, Lin. Gmel. 3518. +Icon. Lister. Conch. t. 857. f. 13. Martini. Conch. 3 t. 78. f. 803-806. + +90. Strombus australis (n.s.) + +Testa ovato-oblonga tuberculata spiraliter sulcata albida +fusco-variegata, spira exserta, cauda recurva, labro incrassato posterius +lobo digiti-formi termitato intus (roseo ?) sulcato. +Icon. -- ? + +Shell ovate oblong, spiral, white, spotted and lined with pale, +fulvous-brown; the spire exserted, conical, half as long as the shell; +the whorls longitudinally ribbed with one more prominent than the rest, +the one nearest the suture being acute and tuberculated; the canal +recurved; the outer lip thickened, ending in a projecting lobe behind, +and edged with two or three blunt tubercles; the throat rose-coloured, +furrowed; the inner lip much thickened. + +This shell is one of the five species which have been confounded with +Strombus auris dianae; it is most like S. zelandiae, n. Chemn. 10 t. 156. +f. 1485, 1486, in form and throat, but has the sculpture of S. adusta, n. +Chemn. 10 t. 156. f. 1487, 1488; this last Lamarck considers as the true +S. auris dianae, whilst Linnaeus unquestionably describes the shell +figured by Martini, 7 t. 84. f. 840, and by Seba, 3 t, 61. f. 1, 2, which +I have named S. lamarckii, from having considered it to be the young of a +new species; it is figured by Martini, 7 t. 84. f. 338, 339, and by Seba, +3 t. 61. f. 5, 6, and is very nearly allied to S. bituberculatus of +Lamarck. + +91. Pterocera lambis, Lam. Hist. 7 196. +Strombus lambis, Gmel. Syst. Nat. 3508. +Icon. Lister. Conch. t. 866. f. 21. Martini, Conch. 3 t. 87. f. 858, 859. + +This shell is very distinct from Strombus camelus of Chemn. 10 t. 155. f. +1478. + +92. Bulla australis, Gray, Ann. of Philosophy, 9 n.s. 408. +Icon. -- + +This species is very distinct from Bulla striata, Lister. Conch. t. 714. +f. 72. with which it has been generally confounded; it is of larger size +and perfectly smooth. + +93. Bulla hyalina (n.s.) + +Testa ovata cylindrica imperforata tenuis hyalina albida laevis +concentrice subrugosa; apice incrassato. +Icon. -- + +The shell ovate, cylindrical, thin; hyaline white, smooth, very slightly +concentrically rugose; the vertex thickened, not perforated; the aperture +rather longer than the shell; the inner lip slightly reflexed; axis +five-twelfths, diameter three-twelfths of an inch. + +94. Cryptostoma haliotoideum (n.) +Sigaretus haliotoideus, Lam. Hist. 6 2. 208. +Icon. Martini. Conch. 1 t. 16. f. 151-154. + +95. Hipponix listeri (n.) +Icon. Lister. t. 544. f. 29. + +This shell is very nearly allied to Pileopis, but the animal is evidently +not brachiopodous. It does not form (or at least not always) a shelly +support, but corrodes the surface of the shell to which it is attached, +so as to form a more flat attachment, and to leave a lunate convex rib +instead of the lunate muscular impression which is observed on those +specimens or individuals which have a shelly base. + +96. Siphonaria radiata, Var. Gray, Phil. Mag. 1824. 275. +Siphonaria exigua, Sow. Gen. +Patella japonica, Donovan. +Icon. Donovan, Nat. Repos. t. 79. + +97. Bulimus kingii, Gray, Ann. Phil., 9 n.s. 414. +Icon. + +The shell ovate, white, with numerous dark-brown irregular concentric +lines, smooth except near the suture where it is slightly wrinkled; +whorls six, rather convex; aperture ovate, about half as long as the +shell; peristome thin (perhaps not formed); perforation covered with a +white even lip, surrounded by a dark edge; the throat chocolate-brown. + +This shell is abundant on the hills of King George the Third's Sound, in +the vicinity of Bald Head. + +98. Cyclostoma australe (n.s.) + +Testa orbiculata subtrochiformis profunde umbilicata albida fasciis binis +fuscis cincta, spira brevi acuta, anfractibus 5 convexis concentrice +sulcatis. +Icon. -- + +Shell orbicular, nearly trochi-form, white with two pale-brown bands on +each whorl; the one near the suture narrow, and the other, placed on the +middle of the whorl, broad; whorls five; convex rounded, with numerous +close concentric furrows; axis umbilicated; umbilicus rather narrow, +deep; aperture rather more than one half the length of the shell; +peristome (not formed ?) simple. + +99. Chiton rugosus (n.s.) + +Testa octovalvis glabra, valvis tuberculatis, ligamento glabro laevi. +Icon. -- + +Shell with eight valves, bald; valves covered with numerous small +tubercles both on the central and lateral area; marginal ligament smooth, +bald. + +100. Patella tramoserica, Chemn. 11 179. +Icon. Chemn. 11 t. 197. f. 1912, 1913. + +101. Patella radiata, Chemn. 11 100. +Icon. Chemn. 11 t. 197. f. 1916, 1917. + +When young, the form of this shell is more conical than in the figure +above quoted, and the outer surface is finely radiately striated. + +102. Patella neglecta (n.) +Patella melanogramma, Sowerby, not Gmel. +Icon. Sow. Gen. f. + +When this shell is young, or when the older specimens have lived in deep +water, where their surface has not been broken by the shingle, or +corroded, or covered with coralloid incrustations, they are regularly +radiately ribbed; the ribs are covered with narrow intermediate grooves, +marked with a black spot on the internal edge of the shell, which is +permanent through all the variations of the outer surface. The inside is +pale purplish-brown, with a yellowish-white muscular impression. In the +older specimens the central disk is often of a pure opaque-white, and the +muscular impressions round the inner edge of the shell are both pellucid +brownish-white; length four inches, breadth three, height two inches. + +This shell is abundant on the rocky shores of King George the Third's +Sound. + +In the collection there is a worn specimen of another species of this +genus; but from its bad state, and from the very great confusion in which +the various species of Patella are involved, I do not venture to describe +it as a new shell, although there has not been any hitherto described to +which, in its present state, it can with any certainty be referred. It is +conical, convex, with twenty-four or twenty-five distinct convex ribs +alternately increasing in size; the grooves between the ribs are broad, +with irregular, concentric, black-brown, raised lines, which appear to be +caused by the wearing away of the other part of the dark outer coat; the +inside is white with a brown disk, and the edge sinuated and furnished +with grooves under the larger ribs. + +103. Haliotis roei (n.s.) + +Testa subrotunda convexiuscula rugosa et plicata spiraliter sulcata intus +argenteo et rubro margaritacea, spira prominula. +Icon. -- + +Shell roundish, rather convex; the outside reddish or brownish, regular; +closely but unequally spiral, ribbed, and irregularly and roughly +concentrically striated and plaited; the row of perforations is rather +prominent, and pierced with six or seven moderate-sized, slightly +tubular, holes; the inside is iridescent, pearly, rather wavy, and +exhibits two distinct whorls; the columella lip is short and flattened, +outer lip rounded; the spire is convex, rather prominent, placed about +one-third of the breadth of the shell from the outer lip, and consists of +three whorls, which very rapidly enlarge. + +This distinct shell, at the desire of Captain King, has been named after +Lieutenant J.S. Roe, the assistant-surveyor of the expedition. + +It is most nearly allied to H. australis, Chemn. 10 t. 166. f. 1604, but +differs from it in being rounder and more distinctly ribbed. + +104. Haliotis cunninghamii (n.s.) + +Testa ovato-rotundata tenuis depressa rugoso-subplicata spiraliter +striata intus argenteo et rubro margaritacea, spira prominula, +foraminibus parvis. +Icon. -- + +Shell roundish-ovate, thin, depressed; the outer surface very slightly +concentrically plaited and rough, and finely, regularly, spirally, +striated; the row of perforations slightly elevated, pierced with eight +or nine small slightly-tubular holes; the spire rather prominent, apex +placed about one-fourth of the breadth of the shell from the sutural +angle on the outer lip, consisting of four whorls which rapidly enlarge; +the inside expanded out, disk nearly flat exhibiting one distinct whorl; +the columella lip narrow, rather long, flattened; the outer lip thin, +truncated; the nick of the imperfect perforation placed about one-third +the length of the outer lip from the end of the columella lip: length six +inches, breadth five. + +This shell, at the wish of Captain King, has been named after Mr. Allan +Cunningham, the botanical collector of the voyage. + +This species, although nearly allied to Haliotis midae, is quite distinct +from it. + +105. Haliotis squamosa (n.s.) + +Testa ovato-oblonga convexa rugoso-plicata aurantio-rubens spiraliter +costata, costis tuberculato-muncatis, fauce margaritacea, spira retusa. +Icon. + +Shell ovate-oblong, convex, externally transversely rugose, plaited and +spirally ribbed; the ribs concentrically striated and furnished with +numerous raised scale-like tubercles; the row of perforations scarcely +round contains ten or twelve rather large holes; the spire slightly +raised, very near the edge, consisting of two or three very +rapidly-enlarging whorls; the inside concave, showing the external ribs, +reddish pearly; the columella lip narrow, depressed, bent; the outer lip +thin, strait, or cut out; the imperfect perforation about one-fifth the +length of the outer lip from the end of the columella lip; length two, +breadth one inch and a quarter. + +This species is very distinct on account of its long form, and curved +lower face, as well as its outer surface. + +106. Haliotis marmorata, Lin. Sys. Nat. 1256. +Icon. Martini. 1 t. 14. f. 139. + +107. Padollus rubicundus, De Montfort, Syst. 2 115. +Padollus scalaris, Leach, Zool. Misc. 1 66. +Haliotis tricostalis, Lam. Hist. 6 2. 218. +Icon. De Montf. 2 t. 114. Leach, l.c. + +This specimen, which is the largest I ever saw, measures three inches and +a half by two and a half. It was found upon Rottnest Island, on the West +Coast. + +PTEROPODA. + +108. Janthina fragilis, Lam. Syst. Anim. +Janthina communis, Lam. Hist. 6 2. 206. +Helix janthina, Lin. Sys. Nat. 1 1246. +Icon. Lister. t. 572. f. 24. Chemn, 5 t. 166. f. 1577, 1578. + +Several specimens of this shell were taken by the towing-net in the +Indian Ocean, on the passage from the Coast of New Holland to Mauritius. + +109. Janthina exigua, Lam. Hist. 6 2. 206. + +Two or three species of this shell were presented to the Museum by Mr. +Hunter, the surgeon to the expedition; it is proved to be very distinct +from J. fragilis, from the description of its float by Dr. Coates in the +transactions of the Society of Natural Science of Philadelphia. See +Annals of Philosophy for 1825, page 385. + +110. Hyalaea tridentata, Lam. Hist. 6 1. 286. +Monooulus telemus ? Lin. Syst. Nat. 1 1059. +Anomia tridentata, Forsk. Faun. Arab. 124. +Icon. Forsk. Faun. t. 40. f. b. Chemn. 8 Vign. 13. Cuv. Ann. Mus. 4 t. +59. Anatomy. + +CEPHALOPODA. + +111. Spirula fragilis, Lam. Syst. Anim. 102. +Spirula australis, Lam. Ency. Method. 465. f. 5. a. b. +Spirula peronii, Lam. Hist. 7 601. +Nautilus spirula, Lin. Syst. Nat. 1163. +Nautilus spicula, Gmel. 3371. +Icon. Lister Conch. t. 550. f.2. Martini. 1 Veg. 254. t. 20. f. 184, 185. +Ency. Method. ut supra Animal. + +Captain King brought home several minute species of Nautilus, which will +be taken notice of at a future period, as they require particular +examination and minute comparison with those found upon the coasts of +Italy and other parts of Europe. + +Note. Specimens of the shells in the above catalogue, to which the +following numbers refer, have been presented to the British Museum, +namely, 2, 5, 7, 8, 12, 13, 17, 20, 25, 28, 29, 31, 46, 48, 90, 91, 92, +94, 95, 96, 97, 98, 99, 102 and 103. + +... + + +A FEW GENERAL REMARKS ON THE VEGETATION OF CERTAIN COASTS OF TERRA +AUSTRALIS, AND MORE ESPECIALLY OF ITS NORTH-WESTERN SHORES. + +BY MR. ALLAN CUNNINGHAM, COLLECTOR TO THE ROYAL GARDENS AT KEW. + +It having been resolved by the British Government to employ a colonial +vessel from the settlement of Port Jackson in New South Wales, for the +purpose of exploring the whole of the North-western Coasts of New +Holland, and that portion of the North Coast, not seen by that able +navigator, the late Captain Flinders; a most favourable opportunity was +thereby afforded for a partial examination of the plants of those unknown +shores, with a view of adding to our progressively augmenting knowledge +of the very interesting Flora of this southern continent. + +Having materially profited by a twelvemonth's previous residence in New +South Wales, acquainting myself with the characters (and principal +peculiarities of structure) of many genera of plants absolutely proper to +Terra Australis; and particularly in that period, throughout the progress +of a long and very interesting journey in the interior, to the westward +of Port Jackson, I was most happy and desirous to obey an instruction I +received from the Right Honourable Sir Joseph Banks, on behalf of the +Government, directing me to place myself under the orders of Captain P.P. +King, to whom the execution of this important service had been intrusted, +and to accompany him to those particular coasts, destined for his +investigation, in order to form and prepare such collections of their +vegetation, for the use of His Majesty's gardens at Kew, as +circumstances, and the particular season of the year proper for visiting +those shores, might afford me. My very limited knowledge of the plants of +that continent, especially of genera, that form a striking feature in its +Flora, was moreover essentially improved during our stay at King George's +Sound on the South-west Coast, previous to our arrival upon the +North-west Coast, at the commencement of the first voyage of His +Majesty's cutter the Mermaid. + +Although the reader may inform himself, from Captain King's relation of +the several voyages, of the opportunities that were afforded me in +forming my collections of plants, still it appears necessary, in this +place, to take a general retrospective view of those parts of the coasts +under examination, whereon my researches were made, adverting, at the +same time, to the prevalent unfavourable seasons for flowering plants, +during which it should seem the survey of the North-west Coast could +alone be effected with safety. + +During the progress of the survey of the southern extreme of the +North-west Coast (at which part Captain King commenced his examinations, +in 1818) I landed in Exmouth Gulf, then upon one of the islands of +Dampier's Archipelago, at the Intercourse Islands, and on Malus Island; +but the results of these several excursions (in some of which ample time +was afforded me) did by no means answer my expectations; herbaceous +plants being for the most part dead, and the few (hard woody) shrubs +scarcely bearing fructification: disadvantages arising, in fact, from the +extreme barrenness of the land, and more particularly from the prevalent +droughts of the season, previous to the change of the monsoon, which soon +afterwards took place, obliging us to quit the North-west Coast +altogether; the remaining periods of the voyage being employed in the +examination of certain parts of the North Coast. + +We again reached the North-west Coast, in the month of September of the +following year, resuming the survey at its northern extremity, under the +most flattering views, and with a favourable season for the prosecution +of that primary object of the voyage. Between the meridians of 125 and +129 degrees, on the parallel of 14 degrees, although a large proportion +of the vegetation was for the most part destroyed by the long established +droughts, the number of specimens of plants bearing fructification, +gathered at Port Keats, Vansittart Bay, Port Warrender, and especially in +Cambridge Gulf (where we spent ten days) was nevertheless considerable +and highly interesting, belonging, however, almost wholly to established +genera of which Grevillea and Acacia were the most striking. The breaking +up of the monsoon at length again obliged Captain King to close his +examination of the coast for that season, to which we, however, returned +in September, 1820, continuing the survey westerly from the point at +which we had left those shores the preceding year. I had very eligible +opportunities of landing upon the shores of Montagu Sound, Capstan +Island, Cape Pond, York Sound, especially at the head of Hunter's River, +at Brunswick Bay, and in Careening Bay, Port Nelson; at which several +parts the collections formed were very important, but not extensive. + +Our encampment on the shore of the latter bay, during the repair of the +vessel, enabled me to examine the country around, to the distance of four +or five miles; but it being at the height of the dry season, +comparatively few flowering plants were detected, and no herbaceous +plants of importance. Our prolonged stay there also enabled me to form +some idea of the Flora of its shores and neighbouring country, from which +I gathered materials for comparison with the vegetation of Endeavour +River, situated at the eastern extreme of its parallel on the opposite +shore of the continent: the identity of certain species on either coast, +together with the inference drawn therefrom, will appear stated, towards +the close of this general notice. Very few new genera were the fruits of +this third voyage, but many undescribed plants of old genera were +discovered, and with those that are frequent on the North Coast, and +tropical shores of New South Wales, some were remarked that were +originally discovered on the South Coast. The period again arrived, that +rendered it necessary to depart from the coast, independent of the leaky +state of our vessel, which materially hastened our return to Port +Jackson, when the cutter was considered wholly unfit for a fourth voyage, +in which the complete survey of the north-west, and the examination of +the line of west coasts were contemplated. To effect this important +service, the colonial government purchased a brig, subsequently named the +Bathurst, and I again accompanied Captain King from Port Jackson, in May, +1821, to those parts of the coasts then remaining unexplored, at which we +arrived at the close of July. Our very limited stay on those shores, +however, was at that season wherein all vegetation was suffering under +the excess of drought; I had nevertheless the means afforded me of +ascertaining the general identity of the plants of Prince Regent's River, +Hanover Bay, and Port George the Fourth (portions of the coast explored +in the voyage) and other parts in the vicinity, that were examined the +preceding year, at a like season, but under circumstances much more +favourable. Upon our return to the North-west Coast from the Mauritius, +early in 1822, the only part visited was Cygnet Bay, situate about 2 1/2 +degrees to the south-west of the last-mentioned sound, and it happening +at a season when some rain had fallen, I met with several plants in an +abundant flowering state, of species, however, in part originally +discovered upon other coasts, and described by Mr. Brown, during the +Investigator's voyage. + +Of the West Coast (properly so denominated) which was seen during the +Bathurst's voyage, very little can be said in reference to its vegetable +productions, and most probably nothing can be here advanced, tending to +augment our very scanty knowledge of its Flora, acquired in part long +since, through the medium of the celebrated navigator, Dampier, but more +especially by the botanists accompanying Captain Baudin's voyage. I had +no opportunity of examining any part of the main, during our run +northerly along its extensive shore, but I landed on Rottnest Island, and +repeatedly visited the northern extremity of Dirk Hartog's Island, off +Shark's Bay, where I gathered, under every discouragement of season, some +of the most important portions of its rich vegetation; in many instances, +however, in very imperfect conditions of fructification. Its general +features led me decidedly to assimilate it to the striking character of +the botany of the South Coast; a characteristic of which it is more than +probable the mainland largely partakes, if we may draw an inference from +its aspect at widely distant parts. + +Upon those portions of the North Coast, which were chiefly surveyed +during the Mermaid's first voyage, at a period immediately subsequent to +the season of the rains, I had very favourable opportunities of +increasing my collections upon the Goulburn Islands, Ports Essington and +Raffles, Croker's Island, Mount-Norris Bay, and on the shores of Van +Diemen's Gulf; and among many described species, discovered formerly in +the great Gulf of Carpentaria, there were several most interesting new +plants. With a view towards an entire completion of the survey of the +several coasts of the continent, that part of New South Wales within the +tropic, north of Cape Bedford, which was not seen by Captain Cook, +entered into the plans of the Mermaid's second voyage; and it was highly +gratifying to my feelings to reflect that it was reserved for me to +complete several specimens discovered formerly in imperfect states by +those eminent naturalists who accompanied the above great +circumnavigator, in 1770, desiderata, that have been wanting ever since +this period of their discovery; no mediums of communication with those +particular parts of the coast having presented themselves. + +The aggregate of the several collections that have been formed during the +progress of the four voyages under the general circumstances above +briefly referred to, and which, as constituting a small Herbarium, will +be thus collectively spoken of in the following remarks, does not exceed +one thousand three hundred species of Phaenogamous plants; of these five +hundred and twenty are already described by authors, the other portion +being in part unpublished species, previously discovered on other coasts +of Terra Australis, and in part absolutely new, referable, however, +mostly to well defined genera. Of Cryptogamous plants, there are but few +species, and of these, or parasitical Orchideae, none have been detected +in these voyages in addition to those already described: a circumstance, +that with respect to the North-west Coast can reasonably be accounted +for, from the non-existence of primary mountains, or land above very +moderate elevation; by the absence of lofty dense forests (points of +character necessary to that permanency of atmospheric moisture, which +constitutes an essential requisite to the existence of almost the whole +of these tribes): and the consequent general exposure to the sun of those +arid shores. + +Limited in number as the new species really are, they will nevertheless +constitute, when added to the discoveries recently made, through the +medium of expeditions to the interior, from the colony of Port Jackson, +very important materials to carry on that Flora of Australia, so very +ably commenced by Mr. Brown. Since that eminent botanist has already +advanced much important matter in the valuable essay, published at the +close of the account of Captain Flinders' voyage, respecting the relative +proportions of the three grand divisions of plants in Australia, as far +as they had been discovered at that period, and has, from very extensive +materials, given us a comparative view of that portion of its Flora, and +the vegetation of other countries; I shall now simply submit a few +general remarks in this notice, on certain plants of established natural +families, that have been discovered in the progress of these voyages; +closing this paper with some observations, chiefly illustrative of the +geographical diffusion of several Australian plants known to authors, +whose localities have hitherto been exceedingly limited. + +PALMAE. On considering the vast expanse of the continent of Terra +Australis, and that great extent of coast which passes through climates +favourable for the production of certain genera of this remarkable +natural family, it is singular that so few of the order should have been +discovered: a fact in the history of the Australian vegetation, which +(upon contemplating the natural economy of many other genera of plants) +can only be considered as accounted for, by the great tendency to drought +of at least three-fifths of its shores. + +To Corypha, Seaforthia, and Livistona, the only three genera that have +been enumerated in the productions of the Australian Flora, may now be +added Calamus; of which a species (discovered without fructification, by +Sir Joseph Banks, during the celebrated voyage of Captain Cook) has at +length been detected bearing fruit in the vicinity of Endeavour River. +The existence of this palm, or rattan, on the East Coast, to which it is +confined, seems almost to be limited to an area within the parallels of +15 and 17 degrees South; should, however, its range be more extensive, it +is southerly one or two degrees, in which direction a remarkable primary +granitic formation of the coast continues, throughout the whole +neighbourhood of which is a peculiar density of dark moist forest, +seemingly dependent on it, and evidently indispensable to the life of +this species of Calamus; but at the termination of this geological +structure, it most probably ceases to exist. A dioecious palm of low +stature, and in habit similar to Seaforthia, was detected in the shaded +forests investing the River Hastings, in latitude 31 degrees South, +bearing male flowers; but as it may prove to be a dwarf state of a +species of that genus, which has lately been observed, with all its +tropical habits, in a higher latitude, it cannot now be recognised as a +sixth individual of the family whose fructification has been seen. + +Although this order has been observed to be sparingly scattered along the +line of East Coast almost to the thirty-fifth degree of south latitude, +its range on the opposite shores of the continent is very limited. Upon +the North-west Coast, the genus Livistona alone has been remarked, in +about latitude 15 degrees South; beyond which, throughout a very +extensive line of depressed shore, towards the North-west Cape, no palms +were seen. If the structure of a coast, and its natural disposition to +produce either humidity or drought be consulted (a point, with respect to +this order, as well as certain other tropical tribes, appearing very +important) those portions of the western shores recently seen, indicate +no one character that would justify the supposition of the existence of +the Palmae in the corresponding extremes of the respective parallels that +produce them on the opposite or East Coast. Another remark relative to +the economy of this family is, that in New Holland it seems confined to +the coasts, Corypha australis, so frequent in particular shaded +situations in the neighbourhood of Port Jackson, having never been +detected in the vicinity of, or upon the mountains, much less in the +distant country to the westward of that extensive boundary. + +ASPHODELEAE. Among the several described plants in the Herbarium, +referred to this family, that were collected upon the East and South-west +Coasts, are specimens in complete fructification of a remarkable plant of +arborescent growth, having a caudex twenty feet high, and all the habits +of Dracaena. It probably constitutes a new genus distinct from Cordyline +of Commerson, to which, however, it appears closely allied; and has an +extensive range on the East Coast, where, although it has for the most +part been observed within the tropic, it extends nevertheless as far as +latitude 31 degrees South. The only plants of Asphodeleae remarked on the +north-western shores, were an imperfect Tricoryne, probably Tenella of +Mr. Brown, discovered by that gentleman during the Investigator's voyage +on the South Coast; and the intratropical Asparagus, which is frequent in +latitude fifteen degrees South. + +CONIFERAE. To the general observations already made on that part of +Coniferae inhabiting the southern hemisphere, may be added some important +facts, to be gathered from the plants in the Herbarium of the late +voyages, that will afford a very correct view of the fructification of +some doubtful genera, as well as their limits. Among these the fruit of +Podocarpus aspleniifolia of M. Labillardiere, was observed, together with +the female fructification of another tree (the Huon pine) found also at +the southern extremes and western coast of Van Diemen's Land, which may +prove to be a Dacrydium. Callitris, of which seven species are known, and +principally found in the parallel of Port Jackson, has also been +discovered upon the North-west Coast, in about latitude 15 degrees South; +and another species, remarkable for its general robust habit, was +observed at Rottnest Island, on the West Coast. A tree, most certainly of +this family, and probably (from habit) a Podocarpus, has been seen upon +the East Coast, within the tropic, but the absence of fructification +prevented its genus being satisfactorily determined. With respect to the +extent of the order in the Islands of New Zealand, some recent specimens +gathered upon the northern, prove one of its pines to be a Podocarpus; +and another, producing a cone, and solitary, alternate scattered +elliptical leaves, shows its relation to Agathis of Salisbury, or Dammar +pine of Amboina. + +URTICEAE, whose mass appears also to be confined to equinoctial +countries, may be considered very limited in those parts of Terra +Australis lying within the tropic recently explored. Ficus is the most +considerable genus of the order in that continent; and although chiefly +found on the north and north-western shores, is also traced on the East +Coast, almost to latitude 36 degrees South, where the trees attain an +enormous size. About sixteen species are preserved in the collections of +the late voyages; all small trees, and one half of which has been +gathered on the North-west Coast. + +A species of Morus, bearing small white fruit, was discovered upon the +continent and islands of New South Wales within the tropic, where also a +new genus of the order, with radiated leaves, has been traced as far as +Endeavour River. Of the genus Urtica, whose numerous species can simply +be considered as of herbaceous duration, although a few of tropical +existence assume a fruticose habit, there is one plant in the vicinity of +the Colony of Port Jackson, remarkable for its gigantic, arborescent +growth; many specimens having been remarked from fifteen to twenty feet +in height, of proportional robust habit, and of highly stimulating +nature. + +SANTALACEAE. Nearly three-fourths of the Australian portion of the order +described, were formerly discovered in the parallel of Port Jackson, upon +the shores of the South Coast, and in Van Diemen's Land. The genus +Choretrum, however, heretofore limited to the southern extremes of the +continent, approaches within about two degrees of the tropic on the West +Coast, having been lately observed on Dirk Hartog's Island. It is rather +remarkable that neither Leptomeria nor Choretrum form a part of the +feature of the vegetation of the arid, depressed portions of the +North-west Coast,* where several of the more harsh, rigid kinds of +plants, of various genera, of the South Coast have been remarked. Those +extensive shores (generally speaking) are not wanting in the order, for +two species of the tropical genus Santalum, Exocarpus, and a +globular-fruited Fusanus, were collected in and about the parallel of 15 +degrees South. + +(*Footnote. Towards the North-west Cape.) + +PROTEACEAE. Since the publication of Mr. Brown's valuable dissertation on +this very extensive natural family, in which were described all the +species known at that period, a few important discoveries have been made +in Terra Australis, particularly on the North-west Coast, where the order +seems to be limited to Grevillea, Hakea, and Persoonia. + +In the Herbarium formed during the late voyages, are specimens of +thirteen species of intertropical Grevillea, in various stages of +perfection; of these seven are described from specimens formerly gathered +upon the East Coast, and in the Gulf of Carpentaria; the remaining six +are, however, perfectly new, and will chiefly augment the last section of +that genus, having hard (in some instances spherical) woody follicles, +containing seeds orbicularly surrounded by a membranous wing, more or +less dilated, and a deciduous style; characters that future botanists may +deem sufficient to justify its separation from Grevillea. The range of +this division, which has been named by Mr. Brown, Cycloptera, has been +hitherto limited to the Gulf of Carpentaria, and the tropical shores of +the East Coast. Of the genus Hakea, hitherto almost wholly excluded from +the tropical parts of Australia, besides H. arborescens, the only species +formerly observed within that circle, the Herbarium furnishes at least +two plants, that have been recently discovered in about 22 degrees south +latitude, the one being H. oleifolia of King George's Sound, whilst the +other proves an entirely new species, belonging to the first section of +the genus, having long filiform leaves, and ecalcarated capsules. + +Upon the East Coast in latitude 14 degrees two shrubs were observed +having all the habits of Hakea, of the South-west Coast, but being +without fructification, their identity could not be satisfactorily +determined. + +Viewing the general distribution of Banksiae, it is a singular fact in +the geographical history of this genus, that its species, which have been +traced through almost every meridian of the South Coast, upon the islands +in Bass Strait, in Van Diemen's Land, and widely scattered throughout the +whole extent of New South Wales to the North Coast, at which extreme of +the continent, B. dentata has been observed as far west as longitude 130 +degrees East, should be wholly wanting on the line of North-west Coast. +Why the links of this almost perfect chain should have been broken on the +seashores appears unaccountable, since they are, by reason of their +general sterility and exposure, extremely favourable to the growth of the +greater portion of the order. Our limited knowledge of the West Coast +(properly so called) does not afford us materials to hazard even a +partial conclusion, relative to the existence of this family on its +shores, excepting from the total absence of any one plant of Proteaceae +at those parts of Rottnest and Dirk Hartog's Islands visited during the +Bathurst's voyage; an inference may be drawn of the general paucity of +any part of the order on the shores of the neighbouring main. Although no +species have been found common to shores opposite to each other, in the +higher latitudes, the identity of Grevillea mimosoides, Persoonia +falcata, and Hakea arborescens, has been established upon the East Coast, +and the north-western shores, in the parallel of about 15 degrees South: +but whilst this geographical diffusion has been remarked in reference to +those particular species, the range of Grevillea gibbosa, a plant +discovered at Endeavour River by Sir Joseph Banks, is now tolerably well +defined by observations made during the late voyages, from which it +appears to be circumscribed to an area not exceeding one hundred and +twenty miles on the East Coast. In the course of the progress of the land +expedition above referred to, the discovery of another plant of this +natural order by Mr. Fraser, occurred in New South Wales, in a tract of +country west of the coastline, about the parallel of 31 degrees, where I +am informed it is a timber-tree of very large dimensions; and seemingly +it constitutes a new genus, nearly allied to Knightia of Mr. Brown, a +native of New Zealand, as I judged from a casual view of some specimens. + +LABIATAE and VERBENACEAE. The mass of these orders (which are admitted to +be very nearly allied to each other) seems in Australia to exist on its +eastern coast, within and beyond the tropic, and the species in the +collection lately formed, are referred to ten established genera, of +which (as belonging to Verbenaceae) Vitex and Premna are most remarkable +on the North-western Coast. + +Of Labiatae, a new species of Labillardiere's genus Prostranthera was +discovered upon Dirk Hartog's Island, where, as also at Rottnest Island, +Westringia was observed, of species, however, common to the South Coast. + +BORAGINEAE. Some very important amendments, in reference to the limits of +certain genera of the order have been proposed by Mr. Brown in his +Prodromus, where the characters are remodelled to the exclusion of +certain species previously referred to them by authors. Of Cordia (to +which Varronia of Linne, and Cerdana of Ruiz and Pavon, have at length +been united) only two species have been found in Terra Australis, of +which one had been previously discovered in New Caledonia; and during the +late voyages C. orientalis has been observed on the North-west Coast, +where a third species of Tournefortia in complete fructification was +discovered; and the Herbarium contains some species of that section of +Heliotropium, having a simple straight spicated inflorescence, which were +also found on those equinoctial parts of the continent. + +BIGNONIACEAE. Almost ninety species of this beautiful order are described +by authors, the greater part of which are at present incorporated among +the genuine species of Bignonia of Linne; a genus that will hereafter be +divided, according to the shape of the calyx, the number of fertile +stamina, and more especially the form of the fruit (which in some species +is an orbicular or elliptical capsule, varying in others to a long +cylindrical figure, with seeds partly cuneated, or thickened at one +extremity, and in others, a truly compressed Siliqua) together with the +relative position of the dissepiment, in respect to the valves of the +fruit. + +The greater portion of Bignoniaceae appears to exist in the equinoctial +parts of America; Some, however, are natives of India, and a few occur on +the western coast of Africa, and Island of Madagascar, but in Terra +Australis the order is reduced to four plants, of which one is a recent +discovery, and may be referred to Spathodea. In that continent, the order +exists only upon the North and East Coasts; it is not, however, entirely +limited to the tropic, for Tecoma of Mr. Brown is also found in latitude +34 degrees South, on which parallel it has been traced at least three +hundred and fifty miles in the interior to the westward of the colony of +Port Jackson. + +ASCLEPIADEAE and APOCINEAE. Nearly the whole of the plants in the +recently formed herbarium, that belong to these natural families, have +been described from specimens formerly discovered upon the East and North +Coasts, several of which appear to give a partial character to the +vegetation of some parts of its shores. + +Hoya (hardly Asclepias carnosa of Linne) Cynanchum, Gymnema, Gymnanthus, +Sarcostemma, and probably Secamone, as belonging to Asclepiadeae, and all +the genera of Mr. Brown (Lyonsia excepted) referred to the latter order, +exist on that extensive coast, where Balfouria and Alyxia have each an +accession of species. Of Strychnos, which is also frequent, and probably +produces its flowers during the rainy season (as has been remarked of +this genus in other countries) specimens in that stage of its +fructification are still a desideratum; all that is known respecting the +plant being the form and size of its fruit, which in some species varies +considerably. + +GOODENOVIAE. The Herbarium contains very few specimens of this +considerable Australian family, the greater mass existing in and to the +southward of the parallel of Port Jackson. The order is reduced to +Goodenia, Scaevola, Velleia, and the tropical Calogyne on the North-west +Coast, and the few species of the two first genera prove to have been +formerly discovered upon the South Coast during the voyage of Captain +Flinders, of which one plant has alsa a much more extensive range than +has been given it heretofore. It is Scaevola spinescens, which forms a +portion of the harsh, rigid vegetables of Dirk Hartog's Island on the +West Coast, and from that shore probably occupies a part of a very +considerable extent of barren country in the interior, in a direction +towards the East Coast, having been seen in abundance in the latitude of +Port Jackson, so near that colony as the meridian of 146 degrees 30 +minutes East. A new Velleia, discovered on the North-west Coast in +latitude 16 degrees, augments that genus, belonging to the section with a +pentaphyllous calyx. + +RUBIACEAE. The existence of several plants of this extensive family in +the intratropical parts of Terra Australis especially when aided by some +individuals of almost wholly exotic tribes, that form a prominent feature +in the Flora of other equinoctial countries, tend, in some measure, to +diminish the peculiar character of the vegetation of Terra Australis on +those shores, and thus it is a considerable assimilation to the Flora of +a part of a neighbouring continent that has been traced. About thirty +species are preserved in the collections of these voyages, for the most +part belonging to genera existing in India, but more abundant in the +tropical parts of South America. + +Of these, Gardenia, Guettarda, Cephaelis, Coffea, Psychotria, and +Morinda, are found on the East Coast; whilst, in corresponding parallels +on the opposite, or north-western shores, the order, although not +materially reduced, is limited to the two latter genera, with Rondeletia, +Ixora, and Genipa. + +It is worthy of remark, that the range of Psychotria, which has not been +observed beyond the tropics in other countries, extends in New South +Wales as far south as the latitude of 35 degrees; at the western +extremity of which it does not appear to exist. + +CAPRIFOLIAE, Juss. The situation of Loranthus and Visvum, in the system, +appears to be undetermined by authors. M. Jussieu associated them with +Rhizophora, in the second section of this order, from which Mr. Brown has +separated this latter genus, and with two others found in Terra +Australis, has constructed a distinct family, named Rhizophoreae; +suggesting, at the same time, the analogy of Loranthus and Viscum to +Santalaceae, and particularly to Proteaceae. The genus Loranthus, of +which nearly the whole of its described species have been limited to the +tropics, is, however, sparingly scattered on all the Coasts of Australia, +where about eleven species have been recently observed, parasitical +chiefly upon certain trees that constitute the mass of the forests of +that vast continent; namely, Eucalyptus, Casuarina, Acacia, and +Melaleuca. + +A solitary and very remarkable deviation from the usual natural economy +of Loranthus, is observed in a species (L. floribunda) described and +figured by M. Labillardiere, which is found on the shores of King +George's Sound, where, in no way recognising the dependent habits of its +congeners, it rises from the soil to a tree fifteen feet high, being +never remarked relying upon other vegetables for its subsistence. Viscum +is found in the colony of Port Jackson, to which it is not confined, +having been also gathered at Endeavour River, on the same coast, within +the tropic. The southern range of the two genera seems to be nearly +beyond the fortieth degree of latitude; but in the northern hemisphere, +Loranthus exists in Siberia. + +UMBELLIFERAE. The equinoctial portion of the Herbarium contains only +three or four plants of this extensive European order, belonging to +Hydrocotyle, Azorella of Cavanilles and Labillardiere (from which +Trachymene of Rudge is probably not distinct) and a suffruticose plant +referred to Cussonia, that have been collected upon the East Coast. Upon +the north-western shores, Azorella was alone remarked, of which a species +is very general upon its main and islands, and chiefly remarkable for its +gigantic herbaceous growth. + +MYRTACEAE. With respect to that portion of Myrtaceae, lately discovered +upon the north-western shores of Australia, and which are alone worthy of +remark here, it is to be observed, that, considering the many points of +that coast visited during the progress of the relative voyages, the +number of species observed are comparatively few, for, including +Eucalyptus, it does not exceed sixteen plants. Of Eucalyptus itself, only +seven species were detected on those shores, and these, for the most +part, form small trees, more approaching the average dimensions of all +their congeners in the colony of Port Jackson. Melaleuca is limited to +three species, one of which was originally discovered by the celebrated +navigator, Dampier, on the West Coast, where Beaufortia has been recently +seen. Four species of Tristania, their related genus, were gathered in +about latitude 15 degrees South, where also an Eugenia, bearing fruit, +was observed; but of Leptospermum, or Baeckea, genera chiefly belonging +to the higher latitudes of New Holland, no species appeared throughout +the whole extent of coast examined. + +RHAMNEAE and CELASTRINAE were formerly united among the Rhamni of +Jussieu, but disposed in sections, differing from each other in the +position of the stamina, with relation to the petals, and in the +character of the fruit; which, when viewed with other important +differences of fructification, induced Mr. Brown to modify and define +them as distinct orders. + +In the Herbarium of the voyages, there are a few plants belonging to +Rhamnus, Ziziphus, Ceanothus, or Pomaderris, and Celastrus, but both +families prove to be comparatively rare in the intratropical parts of +Terra Australis, beyond which Cryptandra seems only to exist. Upon the +north-western shores, a species of Ziziphus (common to the East and North +Coasts) forms a tree of large dimensions, where also an undescribed +Celastrus has been discovered. Since Pomaderris evidently increases from +the verge of the tropic southerly towards the parallel of Port Jackson, +where its maximum exists, and as it is frequent on the South Coast, it is +highly probable the West Coast is not wanting of the genus, particularly +as traces of it were found on Dirk Hartog's Island. + +LEGUMINOSEAE. There are upwards of one hundred and forty species of this +extensive natural class in the Herbarium recently formed, which bear a +proportion to the aggregate of the entire collections of about one to +nine. + +Of the Australian portion of Mimoseae, which (having been met with upon +all the coasts of the continent, and equally diffused in the interior) +forms a leading characteristic of its vegetation, upwards of fifty +species have been collected, in various stages of fructification; nearly +the whole of which are unpublished plants. Several of those discovered on +the north-western shores, and islands off the West Coast, being also +extremely curious in their general form and habits; and the existence of +a few appears limited to a solitary particular situation, and no one +species was observed common to those parts, and the opposite or eastern +shores of the continent. + +The Papilionaceous division exceeds seventy species, two-thirds of which +belong to established diadelphous genera, found chiefly within the +tropic, where some, peculiar to Terra Australis, and heretofore limited +to the more temperate regions, have been discovered. Thus Hovea and +Bossiaea were detected in New South Wales, in latitude 20 and 22 degrees +South, as well as on the North Coast; the latter genus being likewise +found on the north-western shores, where also two species of Kennedia +exist; and Templetonia, a genus nearly related to Bossiaea, originally +discovered on the southern shores of Australia, is abundant on an island +off the West Coast. + +Upon the North-west Coast, particularly in the parallels of 14 and 15 +degrees South, where an exotic feature (if the usual characteristic of +the Flora of other countries might in this case be so termed) is as +manifest, and is as strongly blended with the pure Australian character +(Eucalyptus and Acacia) in its general vegetation, as on any other parts +of those shores; Jacksonia and Gompholobium, genera of Papilionaceae, +with distinct stamens, almost limited to the parallel of Port Jackson and +the South Coast, were observed: Daviesia, almost wholly restricted to the +higher Australian latitudes, has been remarked on the North Coast. Of +Lomentaceae, Bauhinia, Caesalpinia, and the emigrant genus Guilandina, +are all of intratropical existence in New South Wales, as also upon the +North-west Coast; but Cassia, although it has an equal extensive range in +the equinoctial parts of New Holland, has also been recently traced as +far in the interior, on the parallel of Port Jackson, as the meridian of +146 degrees East. + +EUPHORBIACEAE. The Herbarium contains thirty-three plants of this very +numerous order, whose maximum seems decidedly to exist in India and +equinoctial America. The whole of the Australian species are referable to +established Linnean genera, of which Croton and Phyllanthus are most +remarkable and numerous, existing on all the intratropical shores of +Terra Australis, but by no means limited to them, both genera, together +with Euphorbia and Jatropha, being found in the parallel of Port Jackson; +and Croton exists likewise at the southern extreme of Van Diemen's Land, +which is probably the limit of the genus on that hemisphere. + +A Tragia (scarcely distinct from a species indigenous in India) is +sparingly scattered on the East and North Coasts; and Acalypha has been +remarked on these, as well as the north-western shores. + +PITTOSPOREAE. Of this small family, whose characters and limits were +first described by Mr. Brown, there are sixteen species in the Herbarium +of these voyages, referable to Bursaria, Billardiera, Pittosporum, and +two unpublished genera. + +Billardiera, whose species are wholly volubilous, and which are not found +north of the parallel of Port Jackson, is frequent on the South-west +Coast, and has been recently remarked on the West Coast of Van Diemen's +Land. Bursaria on the other hand, appearing limited to New South Wales, +has been traced within the tropic to latitude 19 degrees South on those +eastern shores, and although the genus Pittosporum is even more +extensively diffused on that coast, it has not been met with upon the +north-western shores, whilst the islands off the West Coast furnished me +with two new species. + +DIOSMEAE, although very frequent in the higher latitudes of Terra +Australis, where they are so frequent as to give a peculiar character to +their vegetable productions, is comparatively rare within the tropic; for +upon the East Coast Eriostemon and Phebalium appear to be the only +genera, the latter having been recently discovered, in about latitude 20 +degrees South. + +With some undescribed species of Boronia, a new genus allied to +Eriostemon has been observed on the north-western shores, in the parallel +of 15 degrees South, having a remarkable pinnatified fimbriated calyx. + +Of the related family ZYGOPHYLLEAE (an order proposed by Mr. Brown to be +separated from the Rutaceae of Jussieu) Tribulus is frequent on the +tropical shores of New Holland, and a species of Zygophyllum, with linear +conjugate leaves and tetrapterous fruit, was remarked upon an island off +Shark's Bay, on the West Coast. + +MELIACEAE. The several genera of this order, whose maximum is in the +equinoctial parts of America, differ from each other in the form of the +remarkable cylindrical nectarium, the situation or insertion of the +antherae upon it, as well as the character of its almost wholly capsular +fruit. This structure of nectarium is most striking in Turraea, of which +a species was observed upon the East Coast, far within the tropic; where +also, as well as on all the other equinoctial shores of the continent, +Carapa, more remarkable on account of the valvular character of its +capsules, and the magnitude and irregular figure of its nuts, is very +general, and probably not distinct from the plant (C. moluccensis, Lam.) +of Rumphius, who has given us a figure in his Herbarium Amboinense volume +3 table 61, 62. + +SAPINDACEAE. Of the very few plants referred to the family in the +Herbarium, two genera are only worthy of remark here, the one an +Ornitrophe, found on the East Coast, in about latitude 35 degrees, as +also within the tropic; and the other, which appears to belong to +Stadmannia, was discovered upon the same coast, in latitude 31 degrees +South, the type of the genus being the bois de fer of the French +colonists, a timber tree indigenous at the Island of Mauritius. + +MALVACEAE, Juss. Tiliaceae, Juss. Sterculiaceae, Vent. Buttnericeae, +Brown. These several families, of which the first is by far the most +extensive, have been viewed by Mr. Brown, as so many allied orders of one +natural class, to which the general title of Malvaceae might be applied. +About thirty-six species of these orders collectively, are preserved in +the present Herbarium, referable at least to eleven genera, of which nine +are most abundant in (and form a characteristic feature of) the botany of +India, and the equinoctial parts of South America. Fourteen species of +Hibiscus and Sida were observed on the intratropical Coasts of Australia, +beyond which also, on the opposite shores of the continent, each genus +has been remarked. One species of Bombax with polyandrous flowers, and +subspherical obtusely pentagonal capsules, was discovered upon the East +Coast, in about latitude 14 degrees South, and on nearly the western +extreme of the same parallel, it appeared much more abundant. Of +Sterculia which is scarcely to be found beyond the tropics in other +countries, a species exists in New South Wales in the latitude of 34 +degrees, on which parallel it is more frequent in the western interior, +and in that direction it has been traced to the distance of three hundred +miles from the sea-coast. The genus is also found on the North and +North-west Coasts, where the species assume more particularly the habits +of their congeners in India. Among the plants of this family in the +Herbarium is a species of Helicteris (as the genus stands at present) +which was observed on the North-west Coast bearing fruit, wanting the +contortion that characterizes the genus. + +This plant, together with three other described species, having straight +capsules, may hereafter be separated from that Linnean genus, and +constitute a new one of themselves. Grewia, Corchorus, Triumfetta, and +Waltheria, have been observed upon the North-west Coast, where also +Abroma, hitherto limited to the tropical parts of New South Wales, has +been discovered bearing flowers and young fruit. One species of +Commersonia was gathered at widely-different parts of the north-western +shores, and Lasiopetalum, whose species are more general at both extremes +of the parallel of the colony of Port Jackson, has been also seen just +within the tropic on the East Coast, and at Dirk Hartog's Island, off +Shark's Bay, on the opposite shore. + +CAPPARIDES. At least ten species of Capparis have been discovered upon +the coasts of Terra Australis, for the most part within the tropic, but +of these the fructification of two are wanting. A few have been detected +on the East Coast, but they are more frequent and various in their +species upon the north-western shores of the continent. Within an area on +this extensive coast, not exceeding four degrees of longitude, on the +parallel of 15 degrees South, a tree of very remarkable growth and habit, +has been traced, having all the external form and bulk of Adansonia of +the western shores of Africa. At the respective period of visiting those +parts of the North-west Coast, this gouty tree had previously cast its +foliage of the preceding year, which is of quinary insertion, but it bore +ripe fruit, which is a large elliptical pedicellated unilocalar capsule +(a bacca corticosa) containing many seeds enveloped in a dry pithy +substance. Its flowers, however, have never been discovered, but from the +characters of the fruit, it was (upon discovery) referred to this natural +family. M. Du Petit Thouars has formed a new genus of Capparis +pauduriformis of Lamarck, a plant of the Island of Mauritius, which he +has named Calyptranthus. It has one division of the calyx so formed, that +by its arcuated concavity (before expansion) it conceals the whole +flower, and the other portions of the calyx; and should this genus be +adopted by future botanists, a second species has been recently +discovered upon Dirk Hartog's Island, although of remarkably different +habit. + +Cleome has been observed only in the equinoctial parts of Australia, and +like Capparis, several species exist on the North-west Coast, being +limited to C. viscosa in New South Wales. + +Drosera, which Jussieu associates with these genera is generally +diffused, being found within the tropic, at Endeavour River, and on the +North-west Coast; at Port Jackson, and at the southern extremes of Van +Diemen's Land. + +DILLENIACEAE. To that Australian portion of the order lately enumerated +by M. Decandolle, the present Herbarium offers, in addition, only two +species of the genus Hemistemma of M. Du Petit Thouars. The one +discovered on the North-west Coast, and allied to H. angustifolium of Mr. +Brown; the other proving also new, but approaching in character the +doubtful species, H. leschenaultii of Decandolle, and was discovered upon +Rottnest Island, off the western coast of the continent, and is the first +certain species of the genus, that is not limited to a tropical +existence. + +In addition to what has been advanced in respect to certain natural +orders that appear in the Herbarium, formed under the stated +circumstances, a slight mention might be made of other detached genera, +or families sparingly observed on these coasts, that were more +particularly investigated during the progress of the late voyages; but as +these several plants form portions of orders so extremely limited, and in +themselves presenting nothing remarkable in their internal structure, or +external habit, a few remarks on a general comparison of the vegetation +of the North-west Coast, with the other shores of Terra Australis, will +conclude this notice. + +It is very necessary to premise, that the plants observed and collected +upon the North-west Coast, during the late voyages, are not to be +considered as even a distant approach to an entire Flora of that +extensive line of shore; since the long-established droughts of the +seasons (as already remarked) in which the greater part of that coast was +visited, had wholly destroyed plants of annual duration, with most of the +Gramineae, and had indeed generally affected the mass of its herbaceous +vegetation. The collections, therefore, can simply be viewed as a +gleaning, affording such general outlines of characteristic feature, as +will enable the botanist to trace its affinity to the more minutely +defined vegetation of the other equinoctial shores of the continent, as +well as perceive its general, and, in some instances, almost total want +of relation to the botany of other parts, in the more temperate or higher +latitudes, where certain striking peculiarities of the Australian Flora +more particularly exist. + +Upon a general comparison of those collections that were thus formed on +the North-west Coast, with the plants of the North and East Coasts, aided +also by some few observations made during the voyages, it appears that +(with the exception of Gompholobium, Boronia, Kennedia, and one or two +unpublished species not referred to any family) the genera (of which +several are proper to India) are the same, although the species are very +distinct upon the several coasts. + +Notwithstanding an identity of genera has been remarked upon their +opposite shores, there are, nevertheless, certain others, frequent upon +the East Coast, that appear wholly wanting on the north-western shores: +of these, the existence of some, even in the tropical parts of New South +Wales, seems governed by the primary formation of the coast, its +mountainous structure, and consequent permanency of moisture in a greater +or less degree; namely, almost all the genera of Filices, the parasitical +Orchideae, Piper, Dracontium and Calladium (genera of Aroideae) Commelina +and Aneilema, Calamus and Seaforthia, Hellenia a solitary Australian +genus of Scitamineae, some genera of Rubiaceae, particularly Psychotria +and Coffea, certain genera of Asphodeleae, as Cordyline, and a genus +allied to it, whose fructification is at length obtained, a solitary +plant of Melastomeae, and an individual Nymphea. + +Other genera also, but little influenced by those local circumstances of +situation on the East Coast, that are excluded from the opposite shores, +are Leucopogon (the only equinoctial genus of Epacrideae observed during +the late voyages) the families Bignoniaceae, Jasmineae, the genus +Erythrina, and of Coniferae, Araucaria of Norfolk Island. This absence of +several orders of plants on the north-western shores, existing in New +South Wales, or opposite coast, as well as the consideration (at the same +time) of the evident causes of such a disparity of species on the former +coast, would suggest the opinion, that such plants alone of other parts +of the continent are indigenous to the North-west Coast, as are capable +of sustaining themselves in a soil subjected to seasons of protracted +parching droughts. This may apply to some species upon that coast, but it +cannot be reduced to a general conclusion; for, on the one hand, it is +singular so few of the plants of the South and South-west Coasts, and +particularly that none other of their genera of Proteaceae (than those +already mentioned) found altogether in an arid soil, should have been +discovered throughout any part of its extensive shore; whilst, on the +other hand, at a peculiar structure of a small and limited portion of +that coast, in the vicinity of York Sound, a sufficiency of shade was +observed to be actually produced by the unusually broken character of the +country, to favour the nourishment and growth of certain plants alone to +be seen beneath the shade of dense forests. These species were Myristica +insipida, discovered by Mr. Brown, on one of the Prince of Wales group of +islands on the North Coast; Cryptocarya triplinervis, Brown; bearing ripe +fruit, Abroma fastuosa; and an undescribed Eugenia. + +Although the several genera of plants lately observed on the +north-western shores are also frequent in other equinoctial parts of the +continent, there is, among the many species which are absolutely proper +to that coast, a Capparis of such extraordinary habit, as to form a +feature in the landscape of a limited extent of its shores, in the +enormous bulk of its stem and general ramification, bearing a striking +analogy to the Adansonia of the west coast of Africa. + +The results of such observations on the vegetation as could only be made +in a general way, at parts approaching each extreme of the North-west +Coast, show their little affinity to each other; for the northern +extremity partakes more fully of that feature of the line of coast +contiguous to it, which (as already remarked) extends along the +north-western shores, declines materially at, and in the vicinity of +their southern limits, where the characteristic vegetation of the south, +and perhaps the west, coasts has more particularly been found. Besides +Eucalyptus and Acacia, which are abundant on every shore, and generally +diffused throughout those parts of the interior that have been +penetrated, there is another genus almost equally dispersed, which is, +however, on the North-west Coast reduced to three species. This is +Dodonaea, whose maximum is certainly in New South Wales, within and +beyond the tropic, upon the coast, and generally in the interior of the +country, extending also to the southern extremity of Van Diemen's Land. + +Our very limited knowledge of the Flora of this vast continent (excepting +of a part east of longitude 144 degrees, and included between the +parallels of 31 and 35 degrees in New South Wales) is entirely confined +to the vegetation of its immediate shores, upon every distinct coast of +which, landings, more or less frequent, and under various circumstances, +have been effected; although of all, very considerable portions remain +unexplored, and of the line of West Coast (properly so denominated) the +shores of Shark's Bay, and some few parts south of it, have alone been +scientifically investigated. The interior within the tropic remains +entirely in obscurity; the continental defect of a want of large streams +having a distant source, to aid a penetration to the internal parts of +the country, together with other effectual obstacles, draw at present a +veil, and forbid all research into its Natural History and character, +which will not be removed for very considerable periods (perhaps ages) +yet to come! + +It was the general remark made during a former expedition in the interior +of New South Wales, that no absolutely entire change takes place in the +vegetation east of the meridian of the new settlement named Bathurst; but +that the plants of the coast were more or less frequent at a hundred and +fifty miles from the sea, although in a country estimated at about two +thousand feet above its level. Having to this circumstance added a +remarkable and obvious sameness (arising from an extensive dispersion) of +a vein of vegetation in a large tract of country, it may be inquired, how +far these facts might, when applied to other parallels, identify a +certain portion of the Flora of the interior, and that of the sea-coast +in the same latitude; or, in other terms, how far the botany of the coast +indicates the general feature of the vegetation to a certain limit, in +the interior on the same parallel? Favourable opportunities were afforded +me, to compare the vegetation of opposite coasts within the tropic, at +the eastern and western extremes of a particular parallel; and the +results of such a comparison identified many species on the two coasts. I +have annexed a list of those plants that are common to the North-west and +East Coasts in and about the parallel of 15 degrees South, from a +contemplation of which, together with the above remarks, and a further +comparison of the species with those of the shores of the Gulf of +Carpentaria, through which that degree of latitude passes, might not a +general idea of some portion of the Flora of the expanse of intermediate +interior (far beyond the reach of actual investigation) be presumed? + +A few observations relative to the geographical range of certain genera +and species, hitherto considerably circumscribed, will close this notice. + +The genus Pandanus has ever been viewed by botanists as equinoctial; nor +was it till recently ascertained satisfactorily, that one of its species +(P. pedunculatus, Brown) exists on the shores of Port Macquarie in New +South Wales, in latitude 31 degrees South: and I have been credibly +informed, that the same plant is frequent in the vicinity of Port +Stephens, which is at least a degree to the southward of the above +parallel. The latitude of 32 degrees South may be considered the utmost +extreme of ranges from the equator of the genus in Terra Australis, on +the opposite shore of which, as also in all other countries, it has not +been remarked beyond the tropics. + +The palms of Terra Australis, which (as previously observed) are +remarkably limited on the north-western shores, have a very considerable +diffusion on the North and East Coasts, and have even a more general +dispersion on the latter shores, than has been allowed them formerly. +Seaforthia is frequent in dense forests on the East Coast, almost to +latitude 35 degrees South, where it exhibits all the tropical habits +assumed on the northern shores, although the difference of climate, and +consequent temperature, are abundantly obvious. On the other hand, a palm +of very robust growth, with large flabelliform fronds, and spinous +foot-stalks, was remarked at the head of Liverpool River, in latitude 12 +degrees South, on the North Coast; and although without fructification, +no doubt existed of its being the Corypha australis, hitherto limited to +the shores and vicinity of Port Jackson. + +Araucaria excelsa. The Norfolk Island pine, which, without doubt, must +have been particularly noticed by the celebrated circumnavigator Captain +Cook, in 1770, on the discovery of New South Wales, although the +circumstance of the very general existence of a pine upon the islands and +main of that coast, north of the Percy Isles, does not appear to be +mentioned in the accounts of that particular voyage, has a far more +extensive range upon that shore than has been hitherto understood. During +the Mermaid's voyages, Araucaria was observed in the vicinity of Mount +Warning, in New South Wales, which lies in the parallel of Norfolk Island +(29 degrees South); thence northerly it was very sparingly seen towards +the tropic, within which, however, as far as latitude 14 degrees, it is +very abundant, forming upon several islands the only timber. This is +probably the nearest approach of the species to the equinoctial line; and +although it occupies an area of nine hundred miles, it is very probably +limited in Terra Australis to its immediate shores; and, as appears to be +the case with Pandanus, exists only within the influence of the sea air. + +Calladium macrorhizon, Willd., formerly observed by Sir Joseph Banks, at +Endeavour River, on the East Coast, has been recently detected in moist +woods, in the country off which the Five Islands are situate, extending +on that shore to latitude 35 degrees South: and Schelhammera multiflora, +Br., a delicate plant of Melanthaceae, discovered likewise at Endeavour +River, abounds in shady forests, in latitude 31 degrees, upon the same +extensive coast. + +The following plants, formerly considered as indigenous only in Van +Diemen's Land, have been recently ascertained to exist also in New South +Wales, in or about the parallel of the colony of Port Jackson. + +Croton viscosum, Labill., originally discovered on the South-west Coast, +was seen in the interior, as far to the westward of the colony as +longitude 146 degrees East. + +Croton quadripartitum, Labill., was observed in longitude 148 degrees. + +Goodia latifolia, Salisb., was remarked sparingly in the interior, in the +meridian of 147 degrees 30 minutes East: and Daviesia latifolia of Mr. +Brown is very frequent in societies upon plains at Bathurst, in longitude +149 degrees East, where also Eryngium vesiculosum, of Labillardiere, was +observed. + +Aster argophyllus and obovatus, Labill. These two species were described +by Mons. Labillardiere, from specimens gathered in the southern extremes +of the above island, and have been lately seen tolerably frequent in a +remarkable tract of country, in latitude 34 degrees, on the limit of the +colony, where the former assumes a robust, arborescent habit. Aster +phlogopappus, of the same eminent author, was recently remarked upon the +more elevated parts of the Blue Mountain Range, on the margin of a +remarkable cataract. + +... + +A LIST OF PLANTS COMMON TO THE EAST AND NORTH-WEST COASTS OF TERRA +AUSTRALIS, IN AND ABOUT THE PARALLEL OF FIFTEEN DEGREES SOUTH, WHERE THE +BREADTH OF CONTINENT EXCEEDS 1800 MILES. + +Gleichenia Hermanni, Br. +Eriocaulon fistulosum, Br. +Philydrum lanuginosum, Gaertn. +Flagellaria indica, L. +Dioscorea bulbifera, L. +*? Pandanus pedunculatus, Br. +Cycas angulata, Br. +Santalum oblongatum, Br. +Exocarpus latifolia, Br. +Persoonia falcata, Br. +Grevillea mimosoides, Br. +Hakea arborescens, Br. +Buchnera ramosissima, Br. +Adenosma coerulea, Br. +Orthostemon erectum, Br. +Tabernaemontana orientalis, Br. +Carissa ovata, Br. +Strychnos lucida, Br. +Alyxia obtusifolia, Br. +Ipomoea longifiora, Br. +Ipomoea denticulata, Br. +Ipomoea maritima, Br. +Evolvulus villosus, R. et Pav. +Cuscuta carinata, Br. +Cordia orientalis, Br. +* Clerodendrum inerme, Br. +* Avicennia tomentosa, L. +Chionanthus axillaris, Br. +Olea paniculata, Br. +Maba laurina, Br. +Sersalisia obovata, Br. +Mimusops parvifolia, Br. +Terminalia, sp. allied to Catappa, Lam. +Cleome viscosa, L. +Capparis sepiaria, L. +Hibiscus tiliaceus, L. +Abroma fastuosa, Br. +Bombax australis. +Jacksonia thesioides. +Bauhiniae sp. +Caesalpiniae sp. +Cassia occidentalis, L. +Guilandina Bonduc, L. +Morinda citrifolia, L. +* Carapa moluccensis, Lam. +Zizyphus melastomoides. +* Bruguiera gymnorhiza, Lam. +Casuarina equisetifolia, Lam. + +Should the botany of the shores of the Gulf of Carpentaria, in the +vicinity of those parts, through which the above parallels pass, +generally correspond (on comparison) with the above list, it is more than +probable that these several species occupy portions of the intermediate +interior bounded by the meridians of 125 and 145 degrees East; those +plants excepted, having an asterisk prefixed to them, which as forming +mangroves, or from other causes exist only on the sea shore. + +... + +A LIST OF PLANTS OBSERVED DURING THE LATE VOYAGES ON THE SHORES OF TERRA +AUSTRALIS, THAT ARE ALSO COMMON TO INDIA OR SOUTH AMERICA. + +Acrostichum alcicorne, Sw. +Polypodium acrostichoides, Sw. +Nephrodium exaltatum, Br. +Nephrodium unitum, Br. +Vittaria elongata, Sw. +Asplenium nidus, L. +Daval1ia flaccida, Br. +Gleichenia Hermanni, Br. +Flagellaria indica, L. +Dioscorea bulbifera, L. +Calladium ? macrorhizon, Willd. +Aristolochia indica, L. +Daphne indica, L. +Salicornia indica, Willd. +Deeringia celosioides, Br. +Plumbago zeylanica, L. +Dischidia nummularifolia, Br. +Acanthus ilicifolius, L. +Acanthus ebracteatus, L. +Ipomea Turpethum, Br. +Ipomea denticulata, Br. +Ipomea maritima, Br. +Evolvulus villosus, R. et Pav. +Trichodesma zeylanica, Br. +Tournefortia argentea, L. +Cordia orientalis, Br. +Plectranthus scutellarioides, Br. +Clerodendrum inerme, Br. +Vitex ovata, L. +Vitex trifolia, L. +Avicennia tomentosa, L. +Mimusops kauki, L. +Aegiceras fragrans, C. Koenig. +Scaevola koenigii, Vahl. +Cleome viscosa, L. +Capparis sepiaria, L. ? +Calophyllum inophyllum, L. +Morinda citrifolia, L. +Carapa moluccensis, Lam. +Sophora tomentosa, L. +Cassia occidentalis, L. +Guilandina bonduc, L. +Abrus precatorius, L. +? Acacia scandens, Willd. ? +Hibiscus tiliaceus, L. +Suriana maritima, Jacqu. +Pemphis acida, Forst. +Rhizophora mangle, L. ? +Bruguiera gymnorhiza, Lam. +Sonneratia acida, L. +Abroma fastuosa, Br. +Casuarina equisetifolia, Forst. + +... + +CHARACTER AND DESCRIPTION OF KINGIA, A NEW GENUS OF PLANTS FOUND ON THE +SOUTH-WEST COAST OF NEW HOLLAND: WITH OBSERVATIONS ON THE STRUCTURE OF +ITS UNIMPREGNATED OVULUM; AND ON THE FEMALE FLOWER OF CYCADEAE AND +CONIFERAE. + +BY ROBERT BROWN, ESQUIRE, F.R.S.S.L. AND E. F.L.S. + +(READ BEFORE THE LINNEAN SOCIETY OF LONDON, NOVEMBER 1 AND 15, 1825.) + +In the Botanical Appendix to the Voyage to Terra Australis, I have +mentioned a plant of very remarkable appearance, observed in the year +1801, near the shores of King George the Third's Sound, in Mr. Westall's +view of which, published in Captain Flinders' Narrative, it is +introduced. + +The plant in question was then found with only the imperfect remains of +fructification: I judged of its affinities, therefore, merely from its +habit, and as in this respect it entirely agrees with Xanthorrhoea, +included the short notice given of it in my remarks on Asphodeleae, to +which that genus was referred.* Mr. Cunningham, the botanist attached to +Captain King's voyages, who examined the plant in the same place of +growth, in February, 1818, and in December, 1821, was not more fortunate +than myself. Captain King, however, in his last visit to King George's +Sound, in November, 1822, observed it with ripe seeds: and at length Mr. +William Baxter, whose attention I had particularly directed to this +plant, found it, on the shores of the same port in 1823, both in flower +and fruit. To this zealous collector, and to his liberal employer, Mr. +Henchman, I am indebted for complete specimens of its fructification, +which enable me to establish it as a genus distinct from any yet +described. + +(*Footnote. Flinders Voyage volume 2 page 576.) + +To this new genus I have given the name of my friend Captain King, who, +during his important surveys of the Coasts of New Holland, formed +valuable collections in several departments of Natural History, and on +all occasions gave every assistance in his power to Mr. Cunningham, the +indefatigable botanist who accompanied him. The name is also intended as +a mark of respect to the memory of the late Captain Philip Gidley King, +who, as Governor of New South Wales, materially forwarded the objects of +Captain Flinders' voyage; and to whose friendship Mr. Ferdinand Bauer and +myself were indebted for important assistance in our pursuits while we +remained in that colony. + +KINGIA. + +ORD. NAT. Junceae prope Dasypogon, Calectasiam et Xerotem. + +CHAR. GEN. Perianthium sexpartitum, regulare, glumaceum, persistens. +Stamina sex, fera hypogyna: Antheris basi affixis. Ovarium triloculare, +loculis monospermis; ovulis adscendentibus. Stylus 1. Stigma tridentatum. +Pericarpium exsuccum, indehiscens, monospermum, perianthio scarioso +cinctum. + +Planta facie Xanthorrhoeae elatioris. Caudex arhorescens cicatricibus +basibusve foliorum exasperatus? Folia caudicem terminantia confertissima +longissima, figura et dispositione Xanthorrhoeae. Pedunculi numerosi +foliis breviores, bracteis vaginantibus imbricatis tecti, floriferi +terminales erecti, mox, caudice parum elongato foliisque novellis +productis, laterales, et divaricati vel deflexi, terminati capitulo denso +globoso floribus tribracteatis. + +Kingia australis. Table C. + +DESC. Caudex arborescens erectus simplicissimus cylindraceus, 6-18-pedes +altus, crassitie femoris. Folia caudicem terminantia numerosissima +patula, apicibus arcuato-recurvis, lorea, solida, ancipitia apice +teretiusculo, novella undique tecta pilis adpressis strictis acutis +laevibus, angulis lateralibus et ventrali retrorsum scabris. Pedunculi +numerosi teretes 8-12-pollicares crassitie digiti, vaginis integris +brevibus imbricatis hinc in foliolum subulatum productis tecti. Capitulum +globosum, floridum magnitudine pruni minoris, fructiferum pomum parvum +aequans. Flores undique dense imbricati, tribracteati, sessiles. Bractea +exterior lanceolata breve acuminata planiuscula erecta, extus villosa +intus glabra, post lapsum fructus persistens: duae laterales +angusto-naviculares, acutissimae, carina lateribusque villosis, +longitudine fere exterioris, simul cum perianthio fructifero, separatim +tamen, dilabentibus. Perianthium sexpartitum regulare subaequale +glumaceum: foliola lanceolata acutissima disco nervoso nervis immersis +simplicissimis, antica et postica plana, lateralia complicata lateribus +inaequalibus, omnia basi subangustata, extus longitudinaliter sed extra +medium praecipue villosa, intus glaberrima, aestivatione imbricata. +Stamina sex subaequalia, aestivatione stricta filamentis sensim +elongantibus: Filamenta fere hypogyna ipsis basibus foliolorum perianthii +quibus opposita leviter adhaerentia, filiformia glabra teretia: Antherae +stantes, ante dehiscentiam lineares obtusae filamento paulo latiores, +defloratae subulatae vix crassitie filamenti, loculis parallelo-contiguis +connectivo dorsali angusto adnatis, axi ventrali longitudinaliter +dehiscentibus, lobulis baseos brevibus acutis subadnatis: Pollen simplex +breve ovale laeve. Pistillum: Ovarium sessile disco nullo squamulisve +cinctum, lanceolatum trigono-anceps villosum, triloculare, loculis +monospermis. Ovula erecta fundo anguli interioris loculi paulo supra +basin suam inserta, obovata lenticulari-compressa, aptera: Testa in ipsa +basi acutiuscula foramine minuto perforata: Membrana interna respectu +testae inversa, hujusce nempe apici lata basi inserta, ovata apice +angustato aperto foramen testae obturante: Nucleus cavitate membranae +conformis, ejusdem basi insertus, caeterum liber, pulposus solidus, apice +acutiusculo laevi aperturam membranae internae attingente. Stylus +trigonus strictus, infra villosus, dimidio superiore glabro, altitudine +staminum, iisdem paulo praecocior, exsertus nempe dum illa adhuc inclusa. +Stigmata tria brevissima acuta denticuliformia. Pericarpium exsuccum, +indehiscens, villosum, basi styli aristatum, perianthio scarioso et +filamentis emarcidis cinctum, abortione monospermum. Semen turgidum +obovatum retusum, integumento (testa) simplici membranaceo aqueo-pallido, +bine (intus) fere a basi acutiuscula, raphe fusca verticem retusum +attingente ibique in chalazam parvam concolorem ampliata. Albumen semini +conforme dense carnosum album. Embryo monocotyledoneus, aqueo-pallidus +subglobosus, extremitate inferiore (radiculari) acuta, in ipsa basi +seminis situs, semi-immersus, nec albumine omnino inclusus. + +Table C. figure 1. Kingiae australis pedunculus capitulo florido +terminatus; figure 2, capitulum fructiferum; 3, sectio transversalis +pedunculi: 4, folium: hae magnitudine naturali, sequentes omnes plus +minus auctae sunt; 5, flos; 6, stamen; 7, anthera antice et, 8, eadem +postice visa; 9, pistillum; 10, ovarii sectio transversalis; 11, ejusdem +portio longitudinaliter secta exhibens ovulum adscendens cavitatem loculi +replens; 12, ovulum ita longitudinaliter sectum ut membrana interna +solummodo ejusque insertio in apice cavitatis testae visa sit; 13, ovuli +sectio longitudinalis profundius ducta exhibens membranam internam et +nucleum ex ejusdem basi ortum; 14, bracteae capituli fructiferi; 15, +pericarpium perianthio filamentisque persistentibus cinctum; 16, +pericarpium perianthio avulso filamentorum basibus relictis; 17, semen. + +OBS. 1. + +It remains to be ascertained, whether in this genus a resin is secreted +by the bases of the lower leaves, as in Xanthorrhoea; and whether, which +is probable, it agrees also in the internal structure of its stem with +that genus. In Xanthorrhoea the direction of fibres or vessels of the +caudex seems at first sight to resemble in some degree the dicotyledonous +arrangement, but in reality much more nearly approaches to that of +Dracaena draco, allowance being made for the greater number, and extreme +narrowness of leaves, to which all the radiating vessels belong.* + +(*Footnote. My knowledge of this remarkable structure of Xanthorrhoea is +chiefly derived from specimens of the caudex of one of the larger species +of the genus, brought from Port Jackson, and deposited in the collection +at the Jardin du Roi of Paris by M. Gaudichaud, the very intelligent +botanist who was attached to Captain De Freycinet's voyage.) + +OBS. 2. + +I have placed Kingia in the natural order Junceae along with Dasypogon, +Calectasia and Xerotes, genera peculiar to New Holland, and of which the +two former have hitherto been observed only, along with it, on the shores +of King George's Sound. + +The striking resemblance of Kingia, in caudex and leaves, to +Xanthorrhoea, cannot fail to suggest its affinity to that genus also. +Although this affinity is not confirmed by a minute comparison of the +parts of fructification, a sufficient agreement is still manifest to +strengthen the doubts formerly expressed of the importance of those +characters, by which I attempted to define certain families of the great +class Liliaceae. + +In addition, however, to the difference in texture of the outer coat of +the seed, and in those other points, on which I then chiefly depended in +distinguishing Junceae from Asphodeleae, a more important character in +Junceae exists in the position of the embryo, whose radicle points always +to the base of the seed, the external umbilicus being placed in the axis +of the inner or ventral surface, either immediately above the base as in +Kingia, or towards the middle, as in Xerotes. + +OBS. 3. + +ON THE STRUCTURE OF THE UNIMPREGNATED OVULUM IN PHAENOGAMOUS PLANTS. + +The description which I have given of the Ovulum of Kingia, though +essentially different from the accounts hitherto published of that organ +before fecundation, in reality agrees with its ordinary structure in +Phaenogamous plants. + +I shall endeavour to establish these two points; namely, the agreement of +this description with the usual structure of the Ovulum, and its +essential difference from the accounts of other observers, as briefly as +possible at present; in tending hereafter to treat the subject at greater +length, and also with other views. + +I have formerly more than once* adverted to the structure of the Ovulum, +chiefly as to the indications it affords, even before fecundation, of the +place and direction of the future Embryo. These remarks, however, which +were certainly very brief, seem entirely to have escaped the notice of +those authors who have since written on the same subject. + +(*Footnote. Flinders Voyage 2 page 601, and Linnean Society Transactions +12 page page 136.) + +In the Botanical Appendix to the account of Captain Flinders' Voyage, +published in 1814, the following description of the Ovulum of Cephalotus +follicularis is given: Ovulum erectum, intra testam membranaceam +continens sacculum pendulum, magnitudine cavitatis testae, and in +reference to this description, I have in the same place remarked that, +"from the structure of the Ovulum, even in the unimpregnated state, I +entertain no doubt that the radicle of the Embryo points to the +umbilicus."* + +(*Footnote. Flinders Voyage loc. cit.) + +My attention had been first directed to this subject in 1809, in +consequence of the opinion I had then formed of the function of the +Chalaza in seeds;* and sometime before the publication of the observation +now quoted, I had ascertained that in Phaenogamous plants the +unimpregnated Ovulum very generally consisted of two concentric +membranes, or coats, enclosing a Nucleus of a pulpy cellular texture. I +had observed also, that the inner coat had no connexion either with the +outer or with the nucleus, except at its origin; and that with relation +to the outer coat it was generally inverted, while it always agreed in +direction with the nucleus. And, lastly, that at the apex of the nucleus +the radicle of the future Embryo would constantly be found. + +(*Footnote. Linnean Society Transactions 10 page 35.) + +On these grounds my opinion respecting the Embryo of Cephalotus was +formed. In describing the Ovulum in this genus, I employed, indeed, the +less correct term sacculus, which, however, sufficiently expressed the +appearance of the included body in the specimens examined, and served to +denote my uncertainty in this case as to the presence of the inner +membrane. + +I was at that time also aware of the existence, in several plants, of a +foramen in the coats of the Ovulum, always distinct from, and in some +cases diametrically opposite to the external umbilicus, and which I had +in no instance found cohering either directly with the parietes of the +Ovarium, or with any process derived from them. But, as I was then unable +to detect this foramen in many of the plants which I had examined, I did +not attach sufficient importance to it; and in judging of the direction +of the Embryo, entirely depended on ascertaining the apex of the nucleus, +either directly by dissection, or indirectly from the vascular cord of +the outer membrane: the termination of this cord affording a sure +indication of the origin of the inner membrane, and consequently of the +base of the nucleus, the position of whose apex is therefore readily +determined. + +In this state of my knowledge the subject was taken up in 1818, by my +lamented friend the late Mr. Thomas Smith, who, eminently qualified for +an investigation where minute accuracy and great experience in +microscopical observation were necessary, succeeded in ascertaining the +very general existence of the foramen in the membranes of the Ovulum. But +as the foramina in these membranes invariably correspond both with each +other and with the apex of the nucleus, a test of the direction of the +future Embryo was consequently found nearly as universal, and more +obvious than that which I had previously employed. + +To determine in what degree this account of the vegetable Ovulum differs +from those hitherto given, and in some measure, that its correctness may +be judged of, I shall proceed to state the various observations that have +been actually made, and the opinions that have been formed on the +subject, as briefly as I am able, taking them in chronological order. + +In 1672, Grew* describes in the outer coat of the seeds of many +Leguminous plants a small foramen, placed opposite to the radicle of the +Embryo, which, he adds, is "not a hole casually made, or by the breaking +off of the stalk," but formed for purposes afterwards stated to be the +aeration of the Embryo, and facilitating the passage of its radicle in +germination. It appears that he did not consider this foramen in the +testa as always present, the functions which he ascribes to it being +performed in cases where it is not found, either, according to him, by +the hilum itself, or in hard fruits, by an aperture in the stone or +shell. + +(*Footnote. Anatomy of Veget. begun page 3. Anatomy of Plants page 2.) + +In another part of his work* he describes and figures, in the early state +of the Ovulum, two coats, of which the outer is the testa; the other, his +middle membrane, is evidently what I have termed nucleus, whose origin in +the Ovulum of the Apricot he has distinctly represented and described. + +(*Footnote. Anatomy of Plants page 210 table 80.) + +Malpighi, in 1675,* gives the same account of the early state of the +Ovulum; his secundinae externae being the testa, and his chorion the +nucleus. He has not, however, distinguished, though he appears to have +seen, the foramen of Grew, from the fenestra and fenestella, and these, +to which he assigns the same functions, are merely his terms for the +hilum. + +(*Footnote. Anatome Plant. page 75 et 80.) + +In 1694, Camerarius, in his admirable essay on the sexes of plants,* +proposes, as queries merely, various modes in which either the entire +grains of pollen, or their particles after bursting, may be supposed to +reach and act upon the unimpregnated Ovula, which he had himself +carefully observed. With his usual candour, however, he acknowledges his +obligation on this subject to Malpighi, to whose more detailed account of +them he refers. + +(*Footnote. Rudolphi Jacobi Camerarii de sexu plantarum epistola page 8 +46 et seq.) + +Mr. Samuel Morland, in 1703,* in extending Leeuwenhoek's hypothesis of +generation to plants, assumes the existence of an aperture in the Ovulum, +through which it is impregnated. It appears, indeed, that he had not +actually observed this aperture before fecundation, but inferred its +existence generally and at that period, from having, as he says, +"discovered in the seeds of beans, peas, and Phaseoli, just under one end +of what we call the eye, a manifest perforation, which leads directly to +the seminal plant," and by which he supposes the Embryo to have entered. +This perforation is evidently the foramen discovered in the seeds of +Leguminous plants by Grew, of whose observations respecting it he takes +no notice, though he quotes him in another part of his subject. + +(*Footnote. Philosophical Transactions volume 23 n. 287 page 1474.) + +In 1704, Etienne Francois Geoffroy,* and in 1711, his brother Claude +Joseph Geoffroy,** in support of the same hypothesis, state the general +existence of an aperture in the unimpregnated vegetable Ovulum. It is +not, however, probable that these authors had really seen this aperture +in the early state of the Ovulum in any case, but rather that they had +merely advanced from the observation of Grew, and the conjecture founded +on it by Morland, whose hypothesis they adopt without acknowledgment, to +the unqualified assertion of its existence, in all cases. For it is to be +remarked, that they take no notice of what had previously been observed +or asserted on the more important parts of their subject, while several +passages are evidently copied, and the whole account of the original +state and development of the Ovulum is literally translated from +Camerarius' Essay. Nor does the younger Geoffroy mention the earlier +publication of his brother, from which his own memoir is in great part +manifestly derived. + +(*Footnote. Quaestio Medica an Hominis primordia Vermis? in auctoris +Tractatu de Materia Medica tome 1 page 123.) + +(**Footnote. Mem. de l'Acad. des Sc. de Paris 1711 page 210.) + +In 1718; Vaillant,* who rejects the vermicular hypothesis of generation, +supposes the influence of the Pollen to consist in an aura, conveyed by +the tracheae of the style to the ovula, which it enters, if I rightly +understand him, by the funiculus umbilicalis: at the same time he seems +to admit the existence of the aperture in the coat. + +(*Footnote. Discours sur la Structure des Fleurs page 20.) + +In 1745, Needham,* and in 1770, Gleichen,** adopt the hypothesis of +Morland, somewhat modified, however, as they consider the particles in +the grains of Pollen, not the grains themselves, to be the embryos, and +that they enter the ovula by the umbilical cord. + +(*Footnote. New Microscopical Discoveries page 60.) + +(**Footnote. Observ. Microscop. page 45 et 61 paragraph 118.) + +Adanson, in 1763,* states the Embryo to exist before fecundation, and +that it receives its first excitement from a vapour or aura proceeding +from the Pollen, conveyed to it through the tracheae of the style, and +entering the Ovulum by the umbilical cord. + +(*Footnote. Fam. des Plant. tom. 1 page 121.) + +Spallanzani,* who appears to have carefully examined the unimpregnated +Ovula of a considerable variety of plants, found it in general to be a +homogeneous, spongy, or gelatinous body; but in two Cucurbitaceae to +consist of a nucleus surrounded by three coats. Of these coats he rightly +supposes the outermost to be merely the epidermis of the middle membrane +or testa. Of the relative direction of the testa and inner coat in the +two plants in question he takes no notice, nor does he in any case +mention an aperture in the Ovulum. + +(*Footnote. Fisica Anim. e Veget. tome 3 page 309 to 332.) + +Gaertner, who, in the preface to his celebrated work, displays great +erudition in every branch of his subject, can hardly, however, be +considered an original observer in this part. He describes the +unimpregnated Ovulum as a pulpy homogeneous globule, whose epidermis, +then scarcely distinguishable, separates in a more advanced stage, and +becomes the testa of the seed, the inner membrane of which is entirely +the product of fecundation.* He asserts also that the Embryo constantly +appears at that point of the ovulum where the ultimate branches of the +umbilical vessels perforate the inner membrane; and therefore mistakes +the apex for the base of the nucleus. + +(*Footnote. Gaert. de Fruct. et Sem. 1 page 57, 59 et 61.) + +In 1806 Mons. Turpin* published a memoir on the organ, by which the +fecundating fluid is introduced into the vegetable ovulum. The substance +of this memoir is, that in all Phaenogamous plants fecundation takes +place through a cord or fasciculus of vessels entering the outer coat of +the ovulum, at a point distinct from, but at the period of impregnation +closely approximated to the umbilicus, and to the cicatrix of this cord, +which itself is soon obliterated, he gives the name of Micropyle: that +the ovulum has two coats, each having its proper umbilicus, or, as he +terms it, omphalode; that these coats in general correspond in direction; +that more rarely the inner membrane is, with relation to the outer, +inverted; and that towards the origin of the inner membrane the radicle +of the embryo uniformly points. + +(*Footnote. Annal. du Mus. d'Hist. Nat. 7 page 199.) + +It is singular that a botanist, so ingenious and experienced as M. +Turpin, should, on this subject, instead of appealing in every case to +the unimpregnated ovulum, have apparently contented himself with an +examination of the ripe seed. Hence, however, he has formed an erroneous +opinion of the nature and origin, and in some plants of the situation, of +the micropyle itself, and hence also he has in all cases mistaken the +apex for the base of the nucleus. + +A minute examination of the early state of the ovulum does not seem to +have entered into the plan of the late celebrated M. Richard, when in +1808 he published his valuable and original Analyse du Fruit. The ovulum +has, according to him, but one covering, which in the ripe seed he calls +episperm. He considers the centre of the hilum as the base, and the +chalaza, where it exists, as the natural apex of the seed. + +M. Mirbel, in 1815, though admitting the existence of the foramen or +micropyle of the testa,* describes the ovulum as receiving by the hilum +both nourishing and fecundating vessels,** and as consisting of a uniform +parenchyma, in which the embryo appears at first a minute point, +gradually converting more or less of the surrounding tissue into its own +substance; the coats and albumen of the seed being formed of that portion +which remains.*** + +(*Footnote. Elem. de Physiol. Veg. et de Bot. tome 1 page 49.) + +(**Footnote. Id. tome 1 page 314.) + +(***Footnote. Id. loc. cit.) + +In the same year, M. Auguste de Saint Hilaire,* shows that the micropyle +is not always approximated to the umbilicus; that in some plants it is +situated at the opposite extremity of the ovulum, and that in all cases +it corresponds with the radicle of the embryo. This excellent botanist, +at the same time, adopts M. Turpin's opinion, that the micropyle is the +cicatrix of a vascular cord, and even gives instances of its connexion +with the parietes of the ovarium; mistaking, as I believe, contact, which +in some plants unquestionably takes place, and in one family, namely, +Plumbagineae, in a very remarkable manner, but only after a certain +period, for original cohesion, or organic connexion, which I have not met +with in any case. + +(*Footnote. Mem. du Mus. d'Hist. Nat. 2 page 270 et seq.) + +In 1815 also appeared the masterly dissertation of Professor Ludolf +Christian Treviranus, on the development of the vegetable embryo,* in +which he describes the ovulum before fecundation as having two coats: but +of these, his inner coat is evidently the middle membrane of Grew, the +chorion of Malpighi, or what I have termed nucleus. + +(*Footnote. Entwick. des Embryo im Pflanzen-Ey.) + +In 1822, Mons. Dutrochet, unacquainted, as it would seem, with the +dissertation of Professor Treviranus, published his observations on the +same subject.* In what regards the structure of the ovulum, he +essentially agrees with that author, and has equally overlooked the inner +membrane. + +(*Footnote. Mem. du Mus. d'Hist. Nat. tome 8 page 241 et seq.) + +It is remarkable that neither of these observers should have noticed the +foramen in the testa. And as they do not even mention the well-known +essays of MM. Turpin and Auguste de St. Hilaire on the micropyle, it may +be presumed that they were not disposed to adopt the statements of these +authors respecting it. + +Professor Link, in his Philosophia Botanica, published in 1824, adopts +the account given by Treviranus, of the coats of the ovulum before +impregnation:* and of M. Turpin, as to the situation of the micropyle, +and its being the cicatrix of a vascular cord. Yet he seems not to admit +the function ascribed to it, and asserts that it is in many cases +wanting.** + +(*Footnote. Elem. Philos. Bot. page 338.) + +(**Footnote. Id. page 340.) + +The account which I have given of the structure of the vegetable ovulum, +differs essentially from all those now quoted, and I am not acquainted +with any other observations of importance respecting it. + +Of the authors referred to, it may be remarked, that those who have most +particularly attended to the ovulum externally, have not always examined +it at a sufficiently early period, and have confined themselves to its +surface: that those who have most minutely examined its internal +structure, have trusted too much to sections merely, and have neglected +its appearance externally: and that those who have not at all examined it +in the early stage, have given the most correct account of its surface. +This account was founded on a very limited observation of ripe seeds, +generalized and extended to the unimpregnated ovulum, in connexion with +an hypothesis then very commonly received: but this hypothesis being soon +after abandoned, their statement respecting the ovulum was rejected along +with it. + +In the ovulum of Kingia, the inner membrane, with relation to the +external umbilicus, is inverted; and this, as I have already observed, +though in direct opposition to M. Turpin's account, is the usual +structure of the organ. There are, however, several families in each of +the two primary divisions of phaenogamous plants, in which the inner +membrane, and consequently the nucleus, agrees in direction with the +testa. In such cases the external umbilicus alone affords a certain +indication of the position of the future embryo. + +It is an obvious consequence of what has been already stated, that the +radicle of the embryo can never point directly to the external umbilicus +or hilum, though this is said to be generally the case by the most +celebrated carpologists. + +Another observation may be made, less obviously a consequence of the +structure described, but equally at variance with many of the published +accounts and figures of seeds, namely, that the radicle is never +absolutely enclosed in the albumen; but, in the recent state, is either +immediately in contact with the inner membrane of the seed, or this +contact is established by means of a process generally very short, but +sometimes of great length, and which indeed in all cases may be regarded +as an elongation of its own substance. From this rule I have found one +apparent deviation, but in a case altogether so peculiar, that it can +hardly be considered as setting it aside. + +It is necessary to observe, that I am acquainted with exceptions to the +structure of the ovulum as I have here described it, In Compositae its +coats seem to be imperforated, and hardly separable, either from each +other or from the nucleus, in this family, therefore, the direction of +the embryo can only be judged of from the vessels of the testa.* And in +Lemna I have found an apparent inversion of the embryo with relation to +the apex of the nucleus. In this genus, however, such other peculiarities +of structure and economy exist, that, paradoxical as the assertion may +seem, I consider the exception rather as confirming than lessening the +importance of the character. + +(*Footnote. Linnean Society Transactions 12 page 136.) + +It may perhaps be unnecessary to remark, that the raphe, or vascular cord +of the outer coat, almost universally belongs to that side of the ovulum +which is next the placenta. But it is at least deserving of notice, that +the very few apparent exceptions to this rule evidently tend to confirm +it. The most remarkable of these exceptions occur in those species of +Euonymus, which, contrary to the usual structure of the genus and family +they belong to, have pendulous ovula; and, as I have long since noticed, +in the perfect ovula only of Abelia.* In these, and in the other cases in +which the raphe is on the outer side, or that most remote from the +placenta, the ovula are in reality resupinate; an economy apparently +essential to their development. + +(*Footnote. Abel's China page 377.) + +The distinct origins and different directions of the nourishing vessels +and channel through which fecundation took place in the ovulum, may still +be seen in many of those ripe seeds that are winged, and either present +their margins to the placenta, as in Proteaceae, or have the plane of the +wing at right angles to it, as in several Liliaceae. These organs are +visible also in some of those seeds that have their testa produced at +both ends beyond the inner membrane, as Nepenthes; a structure which +proves the outer coat of scobiform seeds, as they are called, to be +really testa, and not arillus, as it has often been termed. + +The importance of distinguishing between the membranes of the +unimpregnated ovulum and those of the ripe seed, must be sufficiently +evident from what has been already stated. But this distinction has been +necessarily neglected by two classes of observers. The first consisting +of those, among whom are several of the most eminent carpologists, who +have regarded the coats of the seed as products of fecundation. The +second of those authors who, professing to give an account of the ovulum +itself, have made their observations chiefly, or entirely, on the ripe +seed, the coats of which they must consequently have supposed to be +formed before impregnation. + +The consideration of the arillus, which is of rare occurrence, is never +complete, and whose development takes place chiefly after fecundation, +might here, perhaps, be entirely omitted. It is, however, worthy of +remark, that in the early stage of the ovulum, this envelope is in +general hardly visible even in those cases where, as in Hibbertia +volubilis, it attains the greatest size in the ripe seed; nor does it in +any case, with which I am acquainted, cover the foramen of the testa +until after fecundation. + +The testa, or outer coat of the seed, is very generally formed by the +outer membrane of the ovulum; and in most cases where the nucleus is +inverted, which is the more usual structure, its origin may be +satisfactorily determined; either by the hilum being more or less +lateral, while the foramen is terminal; or more obviously, and with +greater certainty where the raphe is visible, this vascular cord +uniformly belonging to the outer membrane of the ovulum. The chalaza, +properly so called, though merely the termination of the raphe, affords a +less certain character, for in many plants it is hardly visible on the +inner surface of the testa, but is intimately united with the areola of +insertion of the inner membrane or of the nucleus, to one or other of +which it then seems entirely to belong. In those cases where the testa +agrees in direction with the nucleus, I am not acquainted with any +character by which it can be absolutely distinguished from the inner +membrane in the ripe seed; but as a few plants are already known, in +which the outer membrane is originally incomplete, its entire absence, +even before fecundation, is conceivable; and some possible cases of such +a structure will be mentioned hereafter. + +There are several cases known, some of which I have formerly noticed,* of +the complete obliteration of the testa in the ripe seed; and on the other +hand it appears to constitute the greater part of the substance of the +bulb-like seeds of many Liliaceae, where it no doubt performs also the +function of albumen, from which, however, it is readily distinguished by +its vascularity.** But the most remarkable deviation from the usual +structure and economy of the outer membrane of the ovulum, both in its +earliest stage and in the ripe fruit, that I have yet met with, occurs in +Banksia and Dryandra. In these two genera I have ascertained that the +inner membrane of the ovulum, before fecundation, is entirely exposed, +the outer membrane being even then open its whole length; and that the +outer membranes of the two collateral ovula, which are originally +distinct, cohere in a more advanced stage by their corresponding +surfaces, and together constitute the anomalous dissepiment of the +capsule; the inner membrane of the ovulum consequently forming the outer +coat of the seed. + +(*Footnote. Linnean Society Transactions 12 page 149.) + +(**Footnote. Ibid.) + +The inner membrane of the ovulum, however, in general appears to be of +greater importance as connected with fecundation, than as affording +protection to the nucleus at a more advanced period. For in many cases, +before impregnation, its perforated apex projects beyond the aperture of +the testa, and in some plants puts on the appearance of an obtuse, or +even dilated stigma; while in the ripe seed it is often either entirely +obliterated, or exists only as a thin film, which might readily be +mistaken for the epidermis of a third membrane then frequently +observable. + +This third coat is formed by the proper membrane or cuticle of the +Nucleus, from whose substance in the unimpregnated ovulum it is never, I +believe, separable, and at that period is very rarely visible. In the +ripe seed it is indistinguishable from the inner membrane only by its +apex, which is never perforated, is generally acute and more deeply +coloured, or even sphacelated. + +The membrane of the nucleus usually constitutes the innermost coat of the +seed. But in a few plants an additional coat, apparently originating in +the inner membrane of Grew, the vesicula colliquamenti or amnios of +Malpighi also exists. + +In general the Amnios, after fecundation, gradually enlarges, till at +length it displaces or absorbs the whole substance of the nucleus, +containing in the ripe seed both the embryo and albumen, where the latter +continues to exist. In such cases, however, its proper membrane is +commonly obliterated, and its place supplied either by that of the +nucleus, by the inner membrane of the ovulum, or, where both these are +evanescent, by the testa itself. + +In other cases the albumen is formed by a deposition of granular matter +in the cells of the nucleus. In some of these cases the membrane of the +amnios seems to be persistent, forming even in the ripe seed a proper +coat for the embryo, the original attachment of whose radicle to the apex +of this coat may also continue. This, at least, seems to me the most +probable explanation of the structure of true Nymphaeaceae, namely, +Nuphar, Nymphaea, Euryale, Hydropeltis, and Cabomba, notwithstanding +their very remarkable germination, as observed and figured in Nymphaea +and Nuphar by Tittmann.* + +(*Footnote. Keimung der Pflanzen page 19 et 27 table 3 et 4.) + +In support of this explanation, which differs from all those yet given, I +may here advert to an observation published many years ago, though it +seems to have escaped every author who has since written on the subject, +namely, that before the maturity of the seed in Nymphaeaceae, the +sacculus contains along with the embryo a (pulpy or semi-fluid) +substance, which I then called Vitellus, applying at that time this name +to every body interposed between the albumen and embryo.* The opinion +receives some confirmation also from the existence of an extremely fine +filament, hitherto overlooked, which, originating from the centre of the +lower surface of the sacculus, and passing through the hollow axis of the +Albumen, probably connects this coat of the Embryo in an early stage with +the base of the nucleus. + +(*Footnote. Prodr. Flor. Nov. Holl. 1 page 306.) + +The same explanation of structure applies to the seeds of Piperaceae and +Saururus; and other instances occur of the persistence either of the +membrane or of the substance of the amnios in the ripe seed. + +It may be concluded from the whole account which I have given of the +structure of the ovulum, that the more important changes consequent to +real, or even to spurious fecundation, must take place within the +nucleus: and that the albumen, properly so called, may be formed either +by a deposition or secretion of granular matter in the utriculi of the +amnios, or in those of the nucleus itself, or lastly, that two substances +having these distinct origins, and very different textures, may co-exist +in the ripe seed, as is probably the case in Scitamineae. + +On the subject of the ovulum, as contained in an ovarium, I shall at +present make but one other remark, which forms a necessary introduction +to the observations that follow. + +ON THE STRUCTURE OF THE FEMALE FLOWER IN CYCADEAE AND CONIFERAE. + +That the apex of the nucleus is the point of the ovulum where +impregnation takes place, is at least highly probable, both from the +constancy in the appearance of the embryo at that point, and from the +very general inversion of the nucleus; for by this inversion its apex is +brought nearly, or absolutely, into contact with that part of the +parietes of the ovarium, by which the influence of the pollen may be +supposed to be communicated. In several of those families of plants, +however, in which the nucleus is not inverted, and the placentae are +polyspermous, as Cistineae,* it is difficult to comprehend in what manner +this influence can reach its apex externally, except on the supposition, +not hastily to be admitted, of an impregnating aura filling the cavity of +the ovarium; or by the complete separation of the fecundating tubes from +the placentae, which, however, in such cases I have never been able to +detect. + +(*Footnote. This structure of ovulum, indicated by that of the seed, as +characterizing and defining the limits of Cistineae (namely, Cistus, +Helianthemum, Hudsonia and Lechea) I communicated to Dr. Hooker, by whom +it is noticed in his Flora Scotica (page 284) published in 1821; where, +however, an observation is added respecting Gaertner's description of +Cistus and Helianthemum, for which I am not accountable.) + +It would entirely remove the doubts that may exist respecting the point +of impregnation, if cases could be produced where the ovarium was either +altogether wanting, or so imperfectly formed, that the ovulum itself +became directly exposed to the action of the pollen, or its fovilla; its +apex, as well as the orifice of its immediate covering, being modified +and developed to adapt them to this economy. + +But such, I believe, is the real explanation of the structure of +Cycadeae, of Coniferae, of Ephedra, and even of Gnetum, of which Thoa of +Aublet is a species. + +To this view the most formidable objection would be removed, were it +admitted, in conformity with the preceding observations, that the apex of +the nucleus, or supposed point of impregnation, has no organic connexion +with the parietes of the ovarium. In support of it, also, as far as +regards the direct action of the pollen on the ovulum, numerous instances +of analogous economy in the animal kingdom may be adduced. + +The similarity of the female flower in Cycadeae and Coniferae to the +ovulum of other phaenogamous plants, as I have described it, is indeed +sufficiently obvious to render the opinion here advanced not altogether +improbable. But the proof of its correctness must chiefly rest on a +resemblance, in every essential point, being established, between the +inner body in the supposed female flower in these tribes, and the nucleus +of the ovulum in ordinary structures; not only in the early stage, but +also in the whole series of changes consequent to fecundation. Now as far +as I have yet examined, there is nearly a complete agreement in all these +respects. I am not entirely satisfied, however, with the observations I +have hitherto been able to make on a subject naturally difficult, and to +which I have not till lately attended with my present view. + +The facts most likely to be produced as arguments against this view of +the structure of Coniferae, are the unequal and apparently secreting +surface of the apex of the supposed nucleus in most cases; its occasional +projection beyond the orifice of the outer coat; its cohesion with that +coat by a considerable portion of its surface, and the not unfrequent +division of the orifice of the coat. Yet most of these peculiarities of +structure might perhaps be adduced in support of the opinion advanced, +being apparent adaptations to the supposed economy. + +There is one fact that will hardly be brought forward as an objection, +and which yet seems to me to present a difficulty, to this opinion; +namely, the greater simplicity in Cycadeae, and in the principal part of +Coniferae, of the supposed ovulum which consists of a nucleus and one +coat only, compared with the organ as generally existing when enclosed in +an ovarium. The want of uniformity in this respect may even be stated as +another difficulty, for in some genera of Coniferae the ovulum appears to +be complete. + +In Ephedra, indeed, where the nucleus is provided with two envelopes, the +outer may, perhaps, be supposed rather analogous to the calyx, or +involucrum of the male flower, than as belonging to the ovulum; but in +Gnetum, where three envelopes exist, two of these may, with great +probability, be regarded as coats of the nucleus; while in Podocarpus and +Dacrydium, the outer cupula, as I formerly termed it,* may also, perhaps, +be viewed as the testa of the ovulum. To this view, as far as relates to +Dacrydium, the longitudinal fissure of the outer coat in the early stage, +and its state in the ripe fruit, in which it forms only a partial +covering, may be objected.** But these objections are, in a great +measure, removed by the analogous structure already described in Banksia +and Dryandra. + +(*Footnote. Flinders Voyage volume 2 page 573.) + +(**Footnote. Id. loc. cit.) + +The plurality of embryos sometimes occurring in Coniferae, and which, in +Cycadeae, seems even to be the natural structure, may also, perhaps, be +supposed to form an objection to the present opinion, though to me it +appears rather an argument in its favour. + +Upon the whole, the objections to which the view here taken of the +structure of these two families is still liable, seem to me, as far as I +am aware of them, much less important than those that may be brought +against the other opinions that have been advanced, and still divide +botanists on this subject. + +According to the earliest of these opinions, the female flower of +Cycadeae and Coniferae is a monospermous pistillum, having no proper +floral envelope. + +To this structure, however, Pinus itself was long considered by many +botanists as presenting an exception. + +Linnaeus has expressed himself so obscurely in the natural character +which he has given of this genus, that I find it difficult to determine +what his opinion of its structure really was. I am inclined, however, to +believe it to have been much nearer the truth than is generally supposed; +judging of it from a comparison of his essential with his artificial +generic character, and from an observation recorded in his Praelectiones, +published by Giseke.* + +(*Footnote. Praelect. in Ord. Nat. page 589.) + +But the first clear account that I have met with, of the real structure +of Pinus, as far as regards the direction, or base and apex of the female +flowers, is given, in 1767, by Trew, who describes them in the following +manner: "Singula semina vel potius germina stigmati tanquam organo +feminino gaudent,"* and his figure of the female flower of the Larch, in +which the stigmata project beyond the base of the scale, removes all +doubt respecting his meaning. + +(*Footnote. Nov. Act. Acad. Nat. Curios. 3 page 453 table 13 figure 23.) + +In 1789, M. de Jussieu, in the character of his genus Abies,* gives a +similar account of structure, though somewhat less clearly as well as +less decidedly expressed. In the observations that follow, he suggests, +as not improbable, a very different view, founded on the supposed analogy +with Araucaria, whose structure was then misunderstood; namely, that the +inner scale of the female amentum is a bilocular ovarium, of which the +outer scale is the style. But this, according to Sir James Smith,** was +also Linnaeus' opinion; and it is the view adopted in Mr. Lambert's +splendid monograph of the genus published in 1803. + +(*Footnote. Gen. Pl. page 414.) + +(**Footnote. Rees Cyclop. art. Pinus.) + +In the same year in which Mr. Lambert's work appeared, Schkuhr* +describes, and very distinctly figures, the female flower of Pinus, +exactly as it was understood by Trew, whose opinion was probably unknown +to him. + +(*Footnote. Botan. Handb. 3 page 276 table 308.) + +In 1807, a memoir on this subject, by Mr. Salisbury, was published,* in +which an account of structure is given, in no important particular +different from that of Trew and Schkuhr, with whose observations he +appears to have been unacquainted. + +(*Footnote. Linnean Society Transactions 8 page 308.) + +M. Mirbel, in 1809,* held the same opinion, both with respect to Pinus +and to the whole natural family. But in 1812, in conjunction with M. +Schoubert,** he proposed a very different view of the structure of +Cycadeae and Coniferae, stating, that in their female flowers there is +not only a minute cohering perianthium present, but an external +additional envelope, to which he has given the name of cupula. + +(*Footnote. Ann. du Mus. d'Hist. Nat. tome 15 page 473.) + +(**Footnote. Nouv. Bulletin des Sc. tome 3 pages 73, 85 et 121.) + +In 1814 I adopted this view, as far, at least, as regards the manner of +impregnation, and stated some facts in support of it.* But on +reconsidering the subject, in connexion with what I had ascertained +respecting the vegetable ovulum, I soon after altogether abandoned this +opinion, without, however, venturing explicitly to state that now +advanced, and which had then suggested itself.** + +(*Footnote. Flinders Voyage 2 572.) + +(**Footnote. Tuckey Congo page 454 et Linnean Society Transactions volume +13 page 213.) + +It is well known that the late M. Richard had prepared a very valuable +memoir on these two families of plants; and he appears, from some +observations lately published by his son, M. Achille Richard,* to have +formed an opinion respecting their structure somewhat different from that +of M. Mirbel, whose cupula is, according to him, the perianthium, more or +less cohering with the included pistillum. He was probably led to this +view, on ascertaining, which I had also done, that the common account of +the structure of Ephedra was incorrect,** its supposed style being in +reality the elongated tubular apex of a membranous envelope, and the +included body being evidently analogous to that in other genera of +Coniferae. + +(*Footnote. Dict. Class. d' Hist. Nat. tome 4 page 395 et tome 5 page +216.) + +(**Footnote. Dict. Class. d'Hist. Nat. tome 6 page 208.) + +To the earliest of the opinions here quoted, that which considers the +female flower of Coniferae and Cycadeae as a naked pistillum, there are +two principal objections. The first of these arises from the perforation +of the pistillum, and the exposure of that point of the ovulum where the +embryo is formed to the direct action of the pollen; the second from the +too great simplicity of structure of the supposed ovulum, which, I have +shown, accords better with that of the nucleus as existing in ordinary +cases. + +To the opinions of MM. Richard and Mirbel, the first objection does not +apply, but the second acquires such additional weight, as to render those +opinions much less probable, it seems to me, than that which I have +endeavoured to support. + +In supposing the correctness of this opinion to be admitted, a question +connected with it, and of some importance, would still remain, namely, +whether in Cycadeae and Coniferae the ovula are produced on an ovarium of +reduced functions and altered appearance, or on a rachis or receptacle. +In other words, in employing the language of an hypothesis, which, with +some alterations, I have elsewhere attempted to explain and defend, +respecting the formation of the sexual organs in Phaenogamous plants,* +whether the ovula in these two families originate in a modified leaf, or +proceed directly from the stem. + +(*Footnote. Linnean Society Transactions volume 13 page 211.) + +Were I to adopt the former supposition, or that best agreeing with the +hypothesis in question, I should certainly apply it, in the first place, +to Cycas, in which the female spadix bears so striking a resemblance to a +partially altered frond or leaf, producing marginal ovula in one part, +and in another being divided into segments, in some cases nearly +resembling those of the ordinary frond. + +But the analogy of the female spadix of Cycas to that of Zamia is +sufficiently obvious; and from the spadix of Zamia to the fruit-bearing +squama of Coniferae, strictly so called, namely, of Agathis or Dammara, +Cunninghamia, Pinus, and even Araucaria, the transition is not difficult. +This view is applicable, though less manifestly, also to Cupressinae; and +might even be extended to Podocarpus and Dacrydium. But the structure of +these two genera admits likewise of another explanation, to which I have +already adverted. + +If, however, the ovula in Cycadeae and Coniferae be really produced on +the surface of an ovarium, it might, perhaps, though not necessarily, be +expected that their male flowers should differ from those of all other +phaenogamous plants, and in this difference exhibit some analogy to the +structure of the female flower. But in Cycadeae, at least, and especially +in Zamia, the resemblance between the male and female spadices is so +great, that if the female be analogous to an ovarium, the partial male +spadix must be considered as a single anthera, producing on its surface +either naked grains of pollen, or pollen subdivided into masses, each +furnished with its proper membrane. + +Both these views may at present, perhaps, appear equally paradoxical; yet +the former was entertained by Linnaeus, who expresses himself on the +subject in the following terms, Pulvis floridus in Cycade minime pro +Antheris agnoscendus est sed pro nudo polline, quod unusquisque qui +unquam pollen antherarum in plantis examinavit fatebitur.* That this +opinion, so confidently held by Linnaeus, was never adopted by any other +botanist, seems in part to have arisen from his having extended it to +dorsiferous Ferns. Limited to Cycadeae, however, it does not appear to me +so very improbable, as to deserve to be rejected without examination. It +receives, at least, some support from the separation, in several cases, +especially in the American Zamiae, of the grains into two distinct, and +sometimes nearly marginal, masses, representing, as it may be supposed, +the lobes of an anthera; and also from their approximation in definite +numbers, generally in fours, analogous to the quaternary union of the +grains of pollen, not unfrequent in the antherae of several other +families of plants. The great size of the supposed grains of pollen, with +the thickening and regular bursting of their membrane, may be said to be +circumstances obviously connected with their production and persistence +on the surface of an anthera, distant from the female flower; and with +this economy, a corresponding enlargement of the contained particles or +fovilla might also be expected. On examining these particles, however, I +find them not only equal in size to the grains of pollen of many +antherae, but, being elliptical and marked on one side with a +longitudinal furrow, they have that form which is one of the most common +in the simple pollen of phaenogamous plants. To suppose, therefore, +merely on the grounds already stated, that these particles are analogous +to the fovilla, and the containing organs to the grains of pollen in +antherae of the usual structure, would be entirely gratuitous. It is, at +the same time, deserving of remark, that were this view adopted on more +satisfactory grounds, a corresponding development might then be said to +exist in the essential parts of the male and female organs. The increased +development in the ovulum would not consist so much in the unusual form +and thickening of the coat, a part of secondary importance, and whose +nature is disputed, as in the state of the nucleus of the seed, +respecting which there is no difference of opinion; and where the +plurality of embryos, or at least the existence and regular arrangement +of the cells in which they are formed, is the uniform structure in the +family. + +(*Footnote. Mem. de l'Acad. des Scien. de Paris 1775 page 518.) + +The second view suggested, in which the anthera in Cycadeae is considered +as producing on its surface an indefinite number of pollen masses, each +enclosed in its proper membrane, would derive its only support from a few +remote analogies: as from those antherae, whose loculi are sub-divided +into a definite, or more rarely an indefinite, number of cells, and +especially from the structure of the stamina of Viscum album. + +I may remark, that the opinion of M. Richard,* who considers these +grains, or masses, as unilocular antherae, each of which constitutes a +male flower, seems to be attended with nearly equal difficulties. + +(*Footnote. Dict. Class. d'Hist. Nat. tome 5 page 216.) + +The analogy between the male and female organs in Coniferae, the +existence of an open ovarium being assumed, is at first sight more +apparent than in Cycadeae. In Coniferae, however, the pollen is certainly +not naked, but is enclosed in a membrane similar to the lobe of an +ordinary anthera. And in those genera in which each squama of the amentum +produces two marginal lobes only, as Pinus, Podocarpus, Dacrydium, +Salisburia, and Phyllocladus, it nearly resembles the more general form +of the antherae in other Phaenogamous plants. But the difficulty occurs +in those genera which have an increased number of lobes on each squama, +as Agathis and Araucaria, where their number is considerable and +apparently indefinite, and more particularly still in Cunninghamia, or +Belis,* in which the lobes, though only three in number, agree in this +respect, as well as in insertion and direction, with the ovula. The +supposition, that in such cases all the lobes of each squama are cells of +one and the same anthera, receives but little support either from the +origin and arrangement of the lobes themselves, or from the structure of +other phaenogamous plants: the only cases of apparent, though doubtful, +analogy that I can at present recollect occurring in Aphyteia, and +perhaps in some Cucurbitaceae. + +(*Footnote. In communicating specimens of this plant to the late M. +Richard, for his intended monograph of Coniferae, I added some remarks on +its structure, agreeing with those here made. I at the same time +requested that, if he objected to Mr. Salisbury's Belis as liable to be +confounded with Bellis, the genus might be named Cunninghamia, to +commemorate the merits of Mr. James Cunningham, an excellent observer in +his time, by whom this plant was discovered; and in honour of Mr. Allan +Cunningham, the very deserving botanist who accompanied Mr. Oxley in his +first expedition into the interior of New South Wales, and Captain King +in all his voyages of survey of the Coasts of New Holland.) + +That part of my subject, therefore, which relates to the analogy between +the male and female flowers in Cycadeae and Coniferae, I consider the +least satisfactory, both in regard to the immediate question of the +existence of an anomalous ovarium in these families, and to the +hypothesis repeatedly referred to, of the origin of the sexual organs of +all phaenogamous plants. + +In concluding this digression, I have to express my regret that it should +have so far exceeded the limits proper for its introduction into the +present work. In giving an account, however, of the genus of plants to +which it is annexed, I had to describe a structure, of whose nature and +importance it was necessary I should show myself aware; and circumstances +have occurred while I was engaged in preparing this account, which +determined me to enter much more fully into the subject than I had +originally intended. + +... + + +APPENDIX C. + +AN ACCOUNT OF SOME GEOLOGICAL SPECIMENS, COLLECTED BY CAPTAIN P.P. KING, +IN HIS SURVEY OF THE COASTS OF AUSTRALIA, AND BY ROBERT BROWN, ESQUIRE, +ON THE SHORES OF THE GULF OF CARPENTARIA, DURING THE VOYAGE OF CAPTAIN +FLINDERS. + +BY WILLIAM HENRY FITTON, M.D., F.R.S., V.P.G.S. + +[READ BEFORE THE GEOLOGICAL SOCIETY OF LONDON, 4TH NOVEMBER, 1825.] + +The following enumeration of specimens from the coasts of Australia, +commences, with the survey of Captain King, on the eastern shore, about +the latitude of twenty-two degrees, proceeding northward and westward: +and as the shores of the Gulf of Carpentaria, previously surveyed by +Captain Flinders, were passed over by Captain King, Mr. Brown, who +accompanied the former, has been so good as to allow the specimens +collected by himself in that part of New Holland, to supply the chasm +which would otherwise have existed in the series. Part of the west and +north-western coast, examined by Captain King, having been previously +visited by the French voyagers, under Captain Baudin, I was desirous of +obtaining such information as could be derived from the specimens +collected during that expedition, and now remaining at Paris; although I +was aware that the premature death of the principal mineralogist, and +other unfavourable circumstances, had probably diminished their value:* +But the collection from New Holland, at the school of Mines, with a list +of which I have been favoured through the kindness of Mr. Brochant de +Villiers, relates principally to Van Diemen's Land; and that of the +Jardin du Roi, which Mr. Constant Prevost has obliged me with an account +of, does not afford the information I had hoped for. I have availed +myself of the notices relating to Physical Geography and Geology, which +are dispersed through the published accounts of Captain Flinders',** and +Baudin's Voyages;*** and these, with the collections above alluded to, +form, I believe, the only sources of information at present existing in +Europe, respecting the geological structure and productions of the north +and western coasts of Australia. + +(*Footnote. M. Depuch, the mineralogist, died during the progress of the +voyage, in 1803; and, unfortunately, none of his manuscripts were +preserved. M. Peron, the zoologist, after publishing, in 1807, the first +volume of the account of the expedition, died in 1810, before the +appearance of the second volume. Voyage etc. 1 page 417, 418; and 2 page +163.) + +(**Footnote. A Voyage to Terra Australis, etc., in the years 1801, 1802, +and 1803, by Matthew Flinders, Commander of the Investigator. Two volumes +quarto with an atlas folio; London 1814.) + +(***Footnote. Voyage de Decouverte aux Terres Australes etc. Tome 1 +redige par M. F. Peron, naturaliste de l'Expedition, Paris 1807. Tome 2 +redige par M. Peron et M. L. Freycinet 1816. A third volume of this work, +under the title of Navigation et Geographie, was published by Capt. +Freycinet in 1815. It contains a brief and clear account of the +proceedings of the expedition; and affords some particulars connected +with the physical geography of the places described, which are not to be +found in the other volumes.) + +In order to avoid the interruption which would be occasioned by detail, I +shall prefix to the list of specimens in Captain King's and Mr. Brown's +collections, a general sketch of the coast from whence they come, +deduced, principally, from the large charts,* and from the narratives of +Captains Flinders and King, with a summary of the geological information +derived from the specimens. But I have thought it necessary to subjoin a +more detailed list of the specimens themselves; on account of the great +distance from each other of many of the places where they were found, and +of the general interest attached to the productions of a country so very +remote, of which the greater part is not likely to be often visited by +geologists. The situation of such of the places mentioned, as are not to +be found in the reduced chart annexed to the present publication, will be +sufficiently indicated by the names of the adjacent places. + +(*Footnote. These charts have been published by the Admiralty for general +sale.) + +GENERAL SKETCH OF THE COAST. + +The North-eastern coast of New South Wales, from the latitude of about 28 +degrees, has a direction from south-east to north-west; and ranges of +mountains are visible from the sea, with little interruption, as far +north as Cape Weymouth, between the latitude of 12 and 13 degrees. From +within Cape Palmerston, west of the Northumberland Islands, near the +point where Captain King began his surveys, a high and rocky range, of +very irregular outline, and apparently composed of primitive rocks, is +continued for more than one hundred and fifty miles, without any break; +and after a remarkable opening, about the latitude of 21 degrees, is +again resumed. Several of the summits, visible from the sea, in the front +of this range, are of considerable elevation: Mount Dryander, on the +promontory which terminates in Cape Gloucester, being more than four +thousand five hundred feet high. Mount Eliot, with a peaked summit, a +little to the south of Cape Cleveland, is visible at twenty-five leagues +distance; and Mount Hinchinbrook, immediately upon the shore, south of +Rockingham Bay, is more than two thousand feet high. From the south of +Cape Grafton to Cape Tribulation, precipitous hills, bordered by low +land, form the coast; but the latter Cape itself consists of a lofty +group, with several peaks, the highest of which is visible from the sea +at twenty leagues. The heights from thence towards the north decline +gradually, as the mountainous ranges approach the shore, which they join +at Cape Weymouth, about latitude 12 degrees; and from that point +northward, to Cape York, the land in general is comparatively low, nor do +any detached points of considerable elevation appear there. But about +midway between Cape Grenville and Cape York, on the mainland south-west +of Cairncross Island, a flat summit called Pudding-Pan Hill is +conspicuous; and its shape, which differs from that of the hills on the +east coast in general, remarkably resembles that of the mountains of the +north and west coasts, to which names expressing their form have been +applied.* + +(*Footnote. Jane's Table-Land, south-east of Princess Charlotte's Bay +(about latitude 14 degrees 30 minutes) and Mount Adolphus, in one of the +islands (about latitude 10 degrees 40 minutes) off Cape York, have also +flat summits. King manuscripts.) + +The line of the coast above described retires at a point which +corresponds with the decline of its level; and immediately on the north +of Cape Melville is thrown back to the west; so that the high land about +that Cape stands out like a shoulder, more than forty miles beyond the +coastline between Princess Charlotte's Bay and the north-eastern point of +Australia. + +The land near Cape York is not more than four or five hundred feet high, +and the islands off that point are nearly of the same elevation. + +The bottom of several of the bays, on the eastern coast, not having been +explored, it is still probable that rivers, or considerable mountain +streams, may exist there. + +Along this eastern line of shore, granite has been found throughout a +space of nearly five hundred miles; at Cape Cleveland; Cape Grafton; +Endeavour River; Lizard Island; and at Clack's Island, on the north-west +of the rocky mass which forms Cape Melville. And rocks of the trap +formation have been obtained in three detached points among the islands +off the shore; in the Percy Isles, about latitude 21 degrees 40 minutes; +Sunday Island, north of Cape Grenville, about latitude 12 degrees; and in +Good's Island, on the north-west of Cape York, latitude 10 degrees 34 +minutes. + +The Gulf of Carpentaria having been fully examined by Captain Flinders, +was not visited by Captain King; but the following account has been +deduced from the voyage and charts of the former, combined with the +specimens collected by Mr. Brown, who has also favoured me with an +extract from the notes taken by himself on that part of the coast. + +The land, on the east and south of the Gulf of Carpentaria, is so low, +that for a space of nearly six hundred miles--from Endeavour Strait to a +range of hills on the mainland, west of Wellesley Islands, at the bottom +of the gulf--no part of the coast is higher than a ship's masthead.* Some +of the land in Wellesley islands is higher than the main; but the largest +island is, probably, not more than one hundred and fifty feet in +height;** and low-wooded hills occur on the mainland, from thence to Sir +Edward Pellew's group. The rock observed on the shore at Coen River, the +only point on the eastern side of the Gulf where Captain Flinders landed, +was calcareous sandstone of recent concretional formation. + +(*Footnote. Flinders Charts Plate 14.) + +(**Footnote. Flinders Volume 2 page 158.) + +In Sweer's Island, one of Wellesley's Isles, a hill of about fifty or +sixty feet in height was covered with a sandy calcareous stone, having +the appearance of concretions rising irregularly about a foot above the +general surface, without any distinct ramifications. The specimens from +this place have evidently the structure of stalactites, which seem to +have been formed in sand; and the reddish carbonate of lime, by which the +sand has been agglutinated, is of the same character with that of the +west coast, where a similar concreted limestone occurs in great +abundance. + +The western shore of the Gulf of Carpentaria is somewhat higher, and from +Limmen's Bight to the latitude of Groote Eylandt, is lined by a range of +low hills. On the north of the latter place, the coast becomes irregular +and broken; the base of the country apparently consisting of primitive +rocks, and the upper part of the hills of a reddish sandstone; some of +the specimens of which are identical with that which occurs at Goulburn +and Sims Islands on the north coast, and is very widely distributed on +the north-west. The shore at the bottom of Melville Bay is stated by +Captain Flinders to consist of low cliffs of pipe-clay, for a space of +about eight miles in extent from east to west; and similar cliffs of +pipe-clay are described as occurring at Goulburn Islands (see the plate, +volume 1) and at Lethbridge Bay, on the north of Melville Island: both of +which places are considerably to the west of the Gulf of Carpentaria. + +Morgan's Island, a small islet in Blue-Mud Bay, on the north-west of +Groote Eylandt, is composed of clink-stone; and other rocks of the +trap-formation occur in several places on this coast. + +The north of Blue-Mud Bay has furnished also specimens of ancient +sandstone; with columnar rocks, probably of clink-stone. Round Hill, near +Point Grindall, a promontory on the north of Morgan's Island, is +composed, at the base, of granite; and Mount Caledon, on the west side of +Caledon Bay, seems likewise to consist of that rock, as does also +Melville Island. This part of the coast has afforded the ferruginous +oxide of manganese: and brown hematite is found hereabouts in +considerable quantity, on the shore at the base of the cliffs; forming +the cement of a breccia, which contains fragments of sandstone, and in +which the ferruginous matter appears to be of very recent production; +resembling, perhaps, the hematite observed at Edinburgh by Professor +Jameson, around cast-iron pipes which had lain for some time in sand.* + +(*Footnote. Edinburgh Philosophical Journal, July 1825 page 193.) + +The general range of the coast, it will be observed, from Limmen's Bight +to Cape Arnhem, is from south-west to north-east; and three conspicuous +ranges of islands on the north-western entrance of the Gulf of +Carpentaria, the appearance of which is so remarkable as to have +attracted the attention of Captain Flinders,* have the same general +direction: a fact which is probably not unconnected with the general +structure of the country. The prevailing rock in all these islands +appears to be sandstone. + +(Flinders Volume 2 page 158. See hereafter.) + +The line of the main coast from Point Dale to the bottom of Castlereagh +Bay, where Captain King's survey was resumed, has also a direction from +south-west to north-east, parallel to that of the ranges of islands just +mentioned. The low land near the north coast in Castlereagh Bay, and from +thence to Goulburn Islands, is intersected by one of the few rivers yet +discovered in this part of Australia, a tortuous and shallow stream, +named Liverpool River, which has been traced inland to about forty miles +from the coast, through a country not more than three feet in general +elevation above high-water mark; the banks being low and muddy, and +thickly wooded: And this description is applicable also to the Alligator +Rivers on the south-east of Van Diemen's Gulf, and to the surrounding +country. The outline of the Wellington Hills, however, on the mainland +between the Liverpool and Alligator Rivers, is jagged and irregular; this +range being thus remarkably contrasted with the flat summits which appear +to be very numerous on the north-western coast. + +The specimens from Goulburn Islands consist of reddish sandstone, not to +be distinguished from that which occurs beneath the coal formation in +England. On the west of these islands the coast is more broken, and the +outline is irregular: but the elevation is inconsiderable; the general +height in Cobourg Peninsula not being above one hundred and fifty feet +above the sea, and that of the hills not more than from three to four +hundred feet. + +On this part of the coast, several hills are remarkable for the flatness +of their tops; and the general outline of many of the islands, as seen on +the horizon, is very striking and peculiar. Thus Mount Bedwell and Mount +Roe, on the south of Cobourg Peninsula; Luxmoore Head, at the west end of +Melville Island; the Barthelemy Hills, south of Cape Ford; Mount Goodwin, +south of Port Keats; Mount Cockburn, and several of the hills adjacent to +Cambridge Gulf, the names given to which during the progress of the +survey sufficiently indicate their form, as House-roofed, Bastion, +Flat-top, and Square-top Hills; Mount Casuarina, about forty miles +north-west of Cambridge Gulf; a hill near Cape Voltaire; Steep-Head, Port +Warrender; and several of the islands off that port, York Sound, and +Prince Regent's River; Cape Cuvier, about latitude 24 degrees; and, still +further south, the whole of Moresby's flat-topped Range, are all +distinguished by their linear and nearly horizontal outlines: and except +in a few instances, as Mount Cockburn, Steep-Head, Mounts Trafalgar and +Waterloo (which look more like hills of floetz-trap) they have very much +the aspect of the summits in the coal formation.* + +(*Footnote. Captain King, however, has informed me, that in some of these +cases, the shape of the hill is really that of a roof, or hayrick; the +transverse section being angular, and the horizontal top an edge.) + +Sketch 1 of some of the islands off Admiralty Gulf (looking southward +from the north-east end of Cassini Island, about latitude 13 degrees 50 +minutes, East longitude 125 degrees 50 minutes) has some resemblance to +one of the views in Peron's Atlas (plate 6 figure 7): and the outline of +the Iles Forbin (plate 8 figure 5, of the same series) also exhibits +remarkably the peculiar form represented in several of Captain King's +drawings (Sketch 2). + +The red colour of the cliffs on the north-west and west coasts, is also +an appearance which is frequently noticed on the sketches taken by +Captain King and his officers. This is conspicuous in the neighbourhood +of Cape Croker; at Darch Island and Palm Bay; at Point Annesley and Point +Coombe in Mountnorris Bay; in the land about Cape Van Diemen, and on the +north-west of Bathurst Island. The cliffs on Roe's River (Prince +Frederic's Harbour) as might have been expected from the specimens, are +described as of a reddish colour; Cape Leveque is of the same hue; and +the northern limit of Shark's Bay, Cape Cuvier of the French, latitude 24 +degrees 13 minutes, which is like an enormous bastion, may be +distinguished at a considerable distance by its full red colour.* + +(*Footnote. Freycinet page 195.) + +It is on the bank of the channel which separates Bathurst and Melville +Islands, near the north-western extremity of New Holland, that a new +colony has recently been established: (see Captain King's Narrative +volume 2.) A permanent station under the superintendence of a British +officer, in a country so very little known, and in a situation so remote +from any other English settlement, affords an opportunity of collecting +objects of natural history, and of illustrating various points of great +interest to physical geography and meteorology, which it is to be hoped +will not be neglected. And as a very instructive collection, for the +general purposes of geology, can readily be obtained in such situations, +by attending to a few precautions, I have thought that some brief +directions on this subject would not be out of place in the present +publication; and have subjoined them to the list of specimens at the +close of this paper.* + +(*Footnote. See hereafter.) + +In the vicinity of Cambridge Gulf, Captain King states, the character of +the country is entirely changed; and irregular ranges of detached rocky +hills composed of sandstone, rising abruptly from extensive plains of low +level land, supersede the low and woody coast, that occupies almost +uninterruptedly the space between this inlet and Cape Wessel, a distance +of more than six hundred miles. Cambridge Gulf, which is nothing more +than a swampy arm of the sea, extends to about eighty miles inland, in a +southern direction: and all the specimens from its vicinity precisely +resemble the older sandstones of the confines of England and Wales.* The +View (volume 1 plate) represents in the distance Mount Cockburn, at the +head of Cambridge Gulf; the flat rocky top of which was supposed to +consist of sandstone, but has also the aspect of the trap-formation. The +strata in Lacrosse Island, at the entrance of the Gulf, rise toward the +north-west, at an angle of about 30 degrees with the horizon: their +direction consequently being from north-east to south-west. + +(*Footnote. I use the term Old Red Sand Stone, in the acceptation of +Messrs. Buckland and Conybeare, Observations on the South Western Coal +District of England. Geological Transactions Second Series volume 1. +Captain King's specimens from Lacrosse Island are not to be distinguished +from the slaty strata of that formation, in the banks of the Avon, about +two miles below Clifton.) + +From hence to Cape Londonderry, towards the south, is an uniform coast of +moderate elevation; and from that point to Cape Leveque, although the +outline may be in a general view considered as ranging from north-east to +south-west,* the coast is remarkably indented, and the adjoining sea +irregularly studded with very numerous islands. The specimens from this +tract consist almost entirely of sandstone, resembling that of Cambridge +Gulf, Goulburn Island, and the Gulf of Carpentaria; with which the +trap-formation appears to be associated. + +(*Footnote. The large chart Sheet 5 best shows the general range of the +shore, from the islands filling up the inlets.) + +York Sound, one of the principal inlets on this part of the coast, is +bounded by precipitous rocks, from one to two hundred feet in height; and +some conical rocky peaks, which not improbably consist of quartz-rock, +were noticed on the eastern side of the entrance. An unpublished sketch, +by Captain King, shows that the banks of Hunter's River, one of the +branches of York Sound, at seven or eight miles from its opening, are +composed of sandstone, in beds of great regularity; and this place is +also remarkable for a copious spring of fresh water, one of the rarest +phenomena of these thirsty and inhospitable shores.* + +(*Footnote. Narrative 1.) + +The most considerable inlet, however, which has yet been discovered in +this quarter of Australia, is Prince Regent's River, about thirty miles +to the south-west of York Sound, the course of which is almost +rectilinear for about fifty miles in a south-eastern direction; a fact +which will probably be found to be connected with the geological +structure of the country. The general character of the banks, which are +lofty and abrupt, is precisely the same with that of the rivers falling +into York Sound; and the level of the country does not appear to be +higher in the interior than near the coast. The banks are from two to +four hundred feet in height, and consist of close-grained siliceous +sandstone, of a reddish hue;* and the view (Plate above) shows that the +beds are nearly horizontal, and very regularly disposed; the cascade +there represented being about one hundred and sixty feet in height, and +the beds from six to twelve feet in thickness. Two conspicuous hills, +which Captain King has named Mounts Trafalgar and Waterloo, on the +north-east of Prince-Regent's River, not far from its entrance, are +remarkable for cap-like summits, much resembling those which characterize +the trap formation. (Sketch 3.) + +(*Footnote. Narrative 1 and 2.) + +The coast on the south of this remarkable river, to Cape Leveque, has not +yet been thoroughly examined; but it appears from Captain King's Chart +(Number 5) to be intersected by several inlets of considerable size, to +trace which to their termination is still a point of great interest in +the physical geography of New Holland. The space thus left to be +explored, from the Champagny Isles to Cape Leveque, corresponds to more +than one hundred miles in a direct line; within which extent nothing but +islands and detached portions of land have yet been observed. One large +inlet especially, on the south-east of Cape Leveque, appears to afford +considerable promise of a river; and the rise of the tide within the +Buccaneer's Archipelago, where there is another unexplored opening, is no +less than thirty-seven feet. + +The outline of the coast about Cape Leveque itself is low, waving, and +rounded; and the hue for which the cliffs are remarkable in so many parts +of the coast to the north, is also observable here, the colour of the +rocks at Point Coulomb being of a deep red: but on the south of the high +ground near that Point, the rugged stony cliffs are succeeded by a long +tract, which to the French voyagers (for it was not examined by Captain +King) appeared to consist of low and sandy land, fronted by extensive +shoals. It has hitherto been seen, however, only at a distance; so that a +space of more than three hundred miles, from Point Gantheaume nearly to +Cape Lambert, still remains to be accurately surveyed. + +Depuch Island, east of Dampier's Archipelago, about latitude 20 degrees +30 minutes, is described by the French naturalists as consisting in a +great measure of columnar rocks, which they supposed to be VOLCANIC; and +they found reason to believe that the adjoining continent was of the same +materials.* It is not improbable, however, that this term was applied to +columns belonging to the trap formation, since no burning mountain has +been any where observed on the coast of New Holland: nor do the drawings +of Depuch Island, made on board Captain King's vessel, give reason to +suppose that it is at present eruptive. Captain King's specimens from +Malus Island, in Dampier's Archipelago (sixty miles farther west) consist +of greenstone and amygdaloid. + +(*Footnote. Peron volume 1 page 130.) + +The coast is again broken and rugged about Dampier's Archipelago, +latitude 20 degrees 30 minutes; and on the south of Cape Preston, in +latitude 21 degrees, is an opening of about fifteen miles in width, +between rocky hills, which has not been explored. From thence to the +bottom of Exmouth Gulf, more than one hundred and fifty miles, the coast +is low and sandy, and does not exhibit any prominences. The west coast of +Exmouth Gulf itself is formed by a promontory of level land, terminating +in the North-west Cape; and from thence to the south-west, as far as Cape +Cuvier, the general height of the coast is from four to five hundred +feet; nor are any mountains visible over the coast range. + +Several portions of the shore between Shark's Bay and Cape Naturaliste +have been described in the account of Commodore Baudin's Expedition; but +some parts still remain to be surveyed. From the specimens collected by +Captain King and the French descriptions, it appears that the islands on +the west of Shark's Bay abound in a concretional calcareous rock of very +recent formation, similar to what is found on the shore in several other +parts of New Holland, especially in the neighbourhood of King George's +Sound; and which is abundant also on the coast of the West Indian +Islands, and of the Mediterranean. Captain King's specimens of this +production are from Dirk Hartog's and Rottnest Islands; and M. Peron +states that the upper parts of Bernier and Dorre Islands are composed of +a rock of the same nature. This part of the coast is covered in various +places with extensive dunes of sand; but the nature of the base, on which +both these and the calcareous formation repose, has not been ascertained. + +The general direction of the rocky shore, from North-west Cape to Dirk +Hartog's Island, is from the east of north to the west of south. On the +south of the latter place the land turns towards the east. High, rocky +and reddish cliffs have been seen indistinctly about latitude 27 degrees; +and a coast of the same aspect has been surveyed, from Red Point, about +latitude 28 degrees, for more than eighty miles to the south-west. The +hills called Moresby's flat-topped Range, of which Mount Fairfax, +latitude 28 degrees 45 minutes, is the highest point, occupy a space of +more than fifty miles from north to south. + +Rottnest Island and its vicinity, latitude 32 degrees, contains in +abundance the calcareous concretions already mentioned; which seem there +to consist in a great measure of the remains of recent shells, in +considerable variety. The islands of this part of the shore have been +described by MM. Peron and Freycinet;* and the coast to the south, down +to Cape Leeuwin, the south-western extremity of New Holland, having been +sufficiently examined by the French voyagers, was not surveyed by Captain +King. + +(*Footnote. Peron volume 2 page 168 etc.) + +Swan River (Riviere des Cygnes) upon this part of the coast, latitude 31 +degrees 25 minutes to 32 degrees, was examined by the French expedition, +to the distance of about twenty leagues from its mouth; and found still +to contain salt water. The rock in its neighbourhood consisted altogether +of sandy and calcareous incrustations, in horizontal beds, enclosing, it +is stated, shells, and the roots and even trunks of trees. Between this +river and Cape Peron, a "great bay" was left unexplored.* + +(*Footnote. Peron volume 1 page 179. Freycinet page 5. 170.) + +The prominent mass of land, which stands out from the main, between Cape +Naturaliste and Cape Leeuwin, and runs nearly on the meridian for more +than fifty miles, seems to have a base of granite, which, at Cape +Naturaliste, is said to be stratified.* The same rock also occurs, among +Captain King's specimens, from Bald-head in King George's Sound; but +nearly on the summit of that hill, which is about five hundred feet high, +were Found the ramified calcareous concretions, erroneously considered as +corals by Vancouver and others;** but which appear, from Captain King's +specimens, to be nothing more than a variety of the recent limestone so +abundant throughout these shores. + +(*Footnote. Peron volume 1 page 69.) + +(**Footnote. Vancouver 1 49. D'Entrecasteaux 2 175. Freycinet 105. +Flinders 1 63. See the detailed descriptions hereafter; and Captain +King's Narrative volume 1.) + +The south coast, and the southern portion of the east coast of Australia, +which were surveyed by Captain Flinders, are described in the account of +his voyage, and do not come within the object of the present paper. + +... + + +GEOLOGICAL REMARKS. + +1. The rocks, of which specimens occur in the collections of Captain King +and Mr. Brown, are the following: + +Granite: Cape Cleveland; C. Grafton; Endeavour River; Lizard Island; +Round Hill, near C. Grindall; Mount Caledon; Island near C. Arnhem; +Melville Bay; Bald-head, King George's Sound. + +Various Slaty Rocks: +Mica-State: Mallison's I. +Talc-State: Endeavour River. +Slaty Clay: Inglis' I., Clack I., Percy I. +Hornblende Rock ?: Pobassoo's Island; Halfway Bay, Prince Regent's River. + +Granular Quartz: Endeavour River; Montagu Sound, North-west Coast. +Epidote: C. Clinton ?; Port Warrender; Careening Bay. + +Quartzose Conglomerates, and ancient Sandstones: Rodd's Bay; Islands of +the north and north-west coasts; Cambridge Gulf; York Sound; Prince +Regent's River. + +Pipe-clay: Melville Bay; Goulburn I.; Lethbridge Bay. + +ROCKS OF THE TRAP FORMATION. + +Serpentine: Port Macquarie; Percy Isles. + +Sienite: Rodd's Bay. + +Porphyry: C. Cleveland. + +Porphyritic Conglomerate: C. Clinton, Percy I., Good's I. + +Compact Felspar: Percy I., Repulse Bay, Sunday Island. + +Greenstone: Vansittart Bay, Bat I., Careening Bay, Malus I. + +Clinkstone: Morgan's I., Pobassoo's I. + +Amygdaloid, with Chalcedony: Port Warrender; Half-way Bay; Bat Island; +Malus I. + +Wacke ?: Bat Island. + +... + +Recent calcareous Breccia: Sweer's Island, N. coast. Dirk Hartog's and +Rottnest Islands, etc., West coast. King George's Sound, South coast. + +The only information that has been published respecting the geology of +New Holland, besides what is contained in the Voyages of Captain Flinders +and Commodore Baudin, is a slight notice by Professor Buckland of some +specimens collected during Mr. Oxley's Expedition to the River +Macquarie,* in 1818; and a brief outline of a paper by the Reverend +Archdeacon Scott, entitled A Sketch of the Geology of New South Wales and +Van Diemen's Land, which has been read before the Geological Society.** +On these authorities, the following may be added to the preceding list of +rocks: + +Limestone, resembling in the character of its organic remains the +mountain limestone or England: Interior of New Holland, near the east +coast; Van Diemen's Land (Buckland; Prevost manuscripts; Scott). + +The Coal-formation: East coast of New Holland; Van Diemen's Land. +(Buckland-Scott.) + +Indications of the new red-Sandstone (Red-Marl) afforded by the +occurrence of Salt: Van Diemen's Land. (Scott.) + +Oolite: Van Diemen's Land. (Scott.) + +(*Footnote. Geological Transactions volume 5 page 480.) + +(**Footnote. Ann. of Phil. June 1824. I am informed that Mr. Von Buch +also has published a paper on the rocks of New Holland; but have not been +so fortunate as to meet with it. + +Since this paper has been at the press, a Report presented to the Academy +of Sciences at Paris, on the Voyage of Discovery of M. Duperrey, +performed during the years 1822 to 1825, has been published; from whence +I have subjoined an extract, in order to complete the catalogue of the +rocks of Australia, according to the present state of our information. + +Les echantillons recueillis tant dans les contrees voisines du Port +Jackson, que dans les Montagnes-Bleues, augmentent beaucoup nos +connoissances sur ces parties de la Nouvelle Hollande. Les echantillons, +au nombre de soixante-dix, nous offrent, 1. Les granites, les +syenites-quartziferes, et les pegmatites (granites graphiques) qui +cunstituent le second plan des Muntagnes-Bleues. 2. Les gres ferrugineux, +et renfermant d'abondantes paillettes de fer oligiste, qui couvrent non +seulement une vaste etendue de pays pres des cotes, mais encore le +premier plan des Montagnes-Bleues; et 3. Le lignite stratiforme qu'on +exploite au Mont-Yorck, a 1000 pieds au-dessus du niveau de la mer, et +dont la presence ajoute aux motifs qui portent a penser que les gres +ferrugineux de ces contrees appartiennent au systeme des terrains +tertiaires. + +Vingt-sept echantillons ramasses a la terre de Van Diemen, dans les +environs du port Dalrymple, et pres du Cap Barren, indiquent, 1. Des +terrains de pegmatite, et de serpentine. 2. Des terrains intermediaires +coquilliers, formes du grauwacke-schistoide, et de pierre calcaire. 3. +Des terrains tres-recens, composes d'argile sablonneuse et ferrugineuse, +avec geodes de fer hydrate, et du bois fossile, a differens etats. On +distingue en outre des belles topazes blanches ou bleuatres, parmi les +galets quartzeux, qui ont ete recueillis au Cap Barren: Bulletin des +Sciences Naturelles, Octobre 1825 page 189.) + +2. The specimens of Captain King's and Mr. Brown's collections, without +any exception, agree with those of the same denominations from other +parts of the world; and the resemblance is, in some instances, very +remarkable: The sandstones of the west and north-west of New Holland are +so like those of the west of England, and of Wales, that the specimens +from the two countries can scarcely be distinguished from each other; the +arenaceous cement in the calcareous breccia of the west coast is +precisely the same with that of Sicily; and the jasper, chalcedony, and +green quartz approaching to heliotrope, from the entrance of Prince +Regent's River, resemble those of the Tyrol, both in their characters and +association. The Epidote of Port Warrender and Careening Bay, affords an +additional proof of the general distribution of that mineral; which, +though perhaps it may not constitute large masses, seems to be of more +frequent occurrence as a component of rocks than has hitherto been +supposed.* The mineral itself, both crystallized and compact, the latter +in the form of veins traversing sienitic rocks, occurs, in Mr. +Greenough's cabinet alone, from Malvern, North Wales, Ireland, France, +and Upper Saxony. Mr. Koenig has found it extensively in the sienitic +tract of Jersey;** where blocks of a pudding-stone, bearing some +resemblance to the green breccia of Egypt, were found to be composed of +compact epidote, including very large pebbles of a porphyritic rock, +which itself contains a considerable proportion of this substance. And +Mr. Greenough has recently received, among specimens sent home by Mr. J. +Burton, junior, a mass of compact epidote, with quartz and felspar, from +Dokhan, in the desert between the Red Sea and the Nile. When New Holland +is added to these localities, it will appear that few minerals are more +widely diffused. + +(*Footnote. See Cleaveland's Mineralogy 1816 page 297 to 300.) + +(**Footnote. Plee's Account of Jersey quarto Southampton 1817 page 231 to +276.) + +3. The unpublished sketches, by Captain King and Mr. Roe, of the hills in +sight during the progress of the survey of the Coasts of Australia, +accord in a very striking manner with the geological character of the +shore. Those from the east coast, where the rocks are primitive, +representing strongly marked and irregular outlines of lofty mountains, +and frequently, in the nearer ground, masses of strata highly inclined. +The outlines on the contrary, on the north, north-west, and western +shores, are most commonly uniform, rectilinear, the summits flat, and +diversified only by occasional detached and conical peaks, none of which +are very lofty. + +4. No information has yet been obtained, from any of the collections, +respecting the diluvial deposits of Australia: a class of phenomena which +is of the highest interest, in an island of such vast extent, so very +remote in situation, and of which the existing animals are so different +from those of other parts of the globe. It is remarkable, also, that no +limestone is among the specimens from the northern and western shores, +except that of the recent breccia; and although negative conclusions are +hazardous, it would seem probable, from this circumstance, that limestone +cannot be very abundant or conspicuous at the places visited. No eruptive +mountains, nor any traces of recent volcanic eruption, have yet been +observed in any part of Australia. + +5. The recent calcareous breccia, of which a detailed description will be +found in the subjoined list of specimens, is one of the most remarkable +productions of New Holland: It was found, during the expedition of +Commodore Baudin, to exist throughout a space of no less than twenty-five +degrees of latitude, and an equal extent of longitude, on the southern, +west, and north-west coasts;* and from Mr. Brown's specimens it appears +to occur also on the shores of the Gulf of Carpentaria. The full account +which M. Peron has given of this formation, sufficiently shows its +resemblance to the very recent limestone, full of marine shells, which +abounds on the shores of the Mediterranean, the West India Islands, and +in several other parts of the world: And it is a point of the greatest +interest in geology, to determine, whether any distinct line can really +be drawn, between those concretions, unquestionably of modern formation, +which occur immediately upon the shore; and other calcareous +accumulations, very nearly resembling them, if not identical, both in the +fossils they contain, and in the characters of the cementing substances, +that are found in several countries, at considerable heights above the +sea. + +(*Footnote. Voyage 2 page 168, 169 to 216 etc.) + +Dr. Buckland has described a breccia of modern formation, which occurs +upon the shore at Madagascar, and consists of a firmly-compacted +cream-coloured stone, composed of granular fragments of shells, +agglutinated by a calcareous cement.* The stone of Guadaloupe, containing +the human skeletons, is likewise of the same nature; and its very recent +production cannot be doubted, since it contains fragments of stone axes, +and of pottery.** The cemented shells of Bermuda, described by Captain +Vetch,*** which pass gradually into a compact limestone, differ only in +colour from the Guadaloupe stone; and agree with it, and with the +calcareous breccia of Dirk Hartog's Island, in the gradual melting down +of the cement into the included portions, which is one of the most +remarkable features of that rock.**** A calcareous compound, apparently +of the same kind, has been recently mentioned, as of daily production in +Anastasia Island, on the coast of East Florida;***** and will probably be +found to be of very general occurrence in that quarter of the globe. And +Captain Beaufort's account of the process by which the gravelly beach is +cemented into stone, at Selinti, and several other places on the coast of +Karamania, on the north-east of the Mediterranean,****** accords with M. +Peron's description of the progress from the loose and moveable sands of +the dunes to solid masses of rock.******* In the island of Rhodes, also, +there are hills of pudding-stone, of the same character, considerably +elevated above the sea. And Captain W.H. Smyth, the author of Travels in +Sicily, and of the Survey of the Mediterranean recently published by the +Admiralty, informs me, that he has seen these concretions in Calabria, +and on the coasts of the Adriatic; but still more remarkably in the +narrow strip of recent land (called the Placca) which connects Leucadia, +one of the Ionian Islands, with the continent, and so much resembles a +work of art, that it has been considered as a Roman fabric. The stone +composing this isthmus is so compact, that the best mill-stones in the +Ionian Islands are made from it; but it is in fact nothing more than +gravel and sand cemented by calcareous matter, the accretion of which is +supposed to be rapidly advancing at the present day. + +(*Footnote. Geological Transactions volume 5 page 479.) + +(**Footnote. Linnean Transactions 12 page 53 to 57.) + +(***Footnote. Geological Transactions 2nd Series volume 1 page 172.) + +(****Footnote. Koenig Philosophical Transactions 1814 page 107 etc.) + +(*****Footnote. Bulletin des Sciences Nat. Mars 1825.) + +(******Footnote. Beaufort's Description of the South Coast of Asia Minor +etc. Second edition. London 1818: pages 180 to 184 etc. In the +neighbourhood of Adalia the deposition of calcareous matter from the +water is so copious that an old watercourse had actually crept upwards to +a height of nearly three feet; and the rapidity of the deposition was +such that some specimens were collected on the grass, where the stony +crust was already formed, although the verdure of the leaf was as yet but +imperfectly withered (page 114): a fact which renders less extraordinary +M. Peron's statement that the excrements of kangaroos had been found +concreted by calcareous matter. Peron volume 2 page 116.) + +(*******Footnote. Voyage 2 116.) + +The nearest approach to the concreted sand-rock of Australia, that I have +seen, is in the specimens presented by Dr. Daubeny to the Bristol +Institution, to accompany his excellent paper on the geology of Sicily;* +which prove that the arenaceous breccia of New Holland is very like that +which occupies a great part of the coast, almost entirely around that +island. Some of Dr. Daubeny's specimens from Monte Calogero, above +Sciacca, consist of a breccia, containing angular fragments of splintery +limestone, united by a cement, composed of minute grains of +quartzose-sand disseminated in a calcareous paste, resembling precisely +that of the breccia of Dirk Hartog's Island: and a compound of this kind, +replete with shells, not far, if at all, different from existing species, +fills up the hollows in most of the older rocks of Sicily; and is +described as occurring, in several places, at very considerable heights +above the sea. Thus, near Palermo, it constitutes hills some hundred feet +in height; near Girgenti, all the most elevated spots are crowned with a +loose stratum of the same kind; and the heights near Castro Giovanni, +said to be 2880 feet above the sea, are probably composed of it. But +although the concretions of the interior in Sicily much resemble those of +the shore, it is still doubtful whether the former be not of more ancient +formation; and if they contain nummulites, they would probably be +referred to the epoch of the beds within the Paris basin. + +(*Footnote. Edinburgh Philosophical Journal 1825 pages 116, 117, 118, and +254 to 255.) + +The looser breccia of Monte Pelegrino, in Sicily, is very like the less +compacted fragments of shells from Bermuda, described by Captain Vetch, +and already referred to:* and the rock in both these cases, nearly +approaches to some of the coarser oolites of England. + +(*Footnote. These specimens are in the Museum of the Geological Society.) + +The resemblance pointed out by M. Prevost,* of the specimens of recent +breccia from New Holland, in the museum at the Jardin du Roi, to those of +St. Hospice near Nice, is confirmed by the detail given by Mr. Allan in +his sketch of the geology of that neighbourhood;** in which the perfect +preservation of the shells, and their near approach to those of the +adjoining sea at the present day, are particularly mentioned; and it is +inferred that the date of the deposit which affords them, is anterior to +that of the conglomerate containing the bones of extinct quadrupeds, +likewise found in that country. M. Brongniart also, who examined the +place himself, mentions the recent accumulation which occurs at St. +Hospice, about sixty feet above the present level of the sea, as +containing marine shells in a scarcely fossil state (a peine fossiles) +and he describes the mass in which they occur, as belonging to a +formation still more recent than the upper marine beds of the environs of +Paris.*** + +(*Footnote. Prevost manuscripts. See hereafter.) + +(**Footnote. Transactions of the Royal Society of Edinburgh volume 8 1818 +page 427 etc. See also the previous publications of M. Risso Journal des +Mines tome 34 etc.) + +(***Footnote. Brongniart in Cuvier Ossemens Fossiles; 2nd Edit. volume 2 +page 427.) + +The geological period indicated by these facts, being probably more +recent than the tertiary beds containing nummulites, and generally than +the Paris and London strata, accords with the date which has hitherto +been assigned to the crag beds of Suffolk, Essex, and Norfolk:* but later +observations render doubtful the opinion generally received respecting +the age of these remarkable deposits, and a full and satisfactory account +of them is still a desideratum in the geology of England. When, also, our +imperfect acquaintance with the travertino of Italy, and other very +modern limestones containing freshwater shells, is considered,** the +continual deposition of which, at the present time, cannot be questioned +(though probably the greater part of the masses which consist of them may +belong to an era preceding the actual condition of the earth's surface) +it would seem that the whole subject of these newer calcareous formations +requires elucidation: and, if the inferences connected with them do not +throw considerable doubt upon some opinions at present generally +received, they show, at least, that a great deal more is to be learned +respecting the operations and products of the most recent geological +epochs, than is commonly supposed. + +(*Footnote. Conybeare and Phillips Outlines etc. page 11, Geological +Transactions 1 page 327 etc. Taylor in Geological Transactions 2nd series +Volume 2 page 371. Mr. Taylor states the important fact that the remains +of unknown animals are buried together with the shells in the crag of +Suffolk; but does not mention the nature of these remains. Since these +pages have been at the press, Mr. Warburton, by whom the coast of Essex +and Norfolk has been examined with great accuracy, has informed me that +the fossil bones of the crag are the same with those of the diluvial +gravel, including the remains of the elephant, rhinoceros, stag, etc.) + +(**Footnote. Some valuable observations on the formation of recent +limestone, in beds of shelly marl at the bottom of lakes in Scotland, +have been read before the Geological Society by Mr. Lyell, and will +appear in the volume of the Transactions now in the press. See Annals of +Philosophy 1825 page 310.) + +Since it appears that the accretion of calcareous matter is continually +going on at the present time, and has probably taken place at all times, +the stone thus formed, independent of the organized bodies which it +envelopes, will afford no criterion of its date, nor give any very +certain clue to the revolutions which have subsequently acted upon it. +But as MARINE shells are found in the cemented masses, at heights above +the sea, to which no ordinary natural operations could have conveyed +them, the elevation of these shells to their actual place (if not that of +the rock in which they are agglutinated) must be referred to some other +agency: while the perfect preservation of the shells, their great +quantity, and the abundance of the same species in the same places, make +it more probable that they lay originally in the situations where we now +find them, than that they have been transported from any considerable +distances, or elevated by any very turbulent operation. Captain de +Freycinet, indeed, mentions that patellae, worn by attrition, and other +recent shells, have been found on the west coast of New Holland, on the +top of a wall of rocks an hundred feet above the sea, evidently brought +up by the surge during violent storms;* but such shells are found in the +breccia of Sicily, and in several other places, at heights too great, and +their preservation is too perfect, to admit of this mode of conveyance; +and to account for their existence in such situations, recourse must be +had to more powerful means of transport. + +(* Freycinet page 187. The presence of shells in such situations may +often be ascribed to the birds, which feed on their inhabitants. At +Madeira, where recent shells are found near the coast at a considerable +height above the sea, the Gulls have been seen carrying up the living +patellae, just taken from the rocks.) + +The occurrence of corals, and marine shells of recent appearance, at +considerable heights above the sea, on the coasts of New Holland, Timor, +and several other islands of the south, was justly considered by M. Peron +as demonstrating the former abode of the sea above the land; and very +naturally suggested an inquiry, as to the nature of the revolutions to +which this change of situation is to be ascribed.* From similar +appearances at Pulo Nias, one of the islands off the western coast of +Sumatra, Dr. Jack also was led to infer, that the surface of that island +must at one time have been the bed of the ocean; and after stating, that +by whatever means it obtained its present elevation, the transition must +have been effected with little violence or disturbance to the marine +productions at the surface,** he concludes, that the phenomena are in +favour of a HEAVING UP OF THE LAND, BY A FORCE FROM BENEATH. The probable +nature of this force is indicated most distinctly, if not demonstrated, +by the phenomena which attended the memorable earthquake of Chili, in +November, 1820,*** which was felt throughout a space of fifteen hundred +miles from north to south. For it is stated upon the clearest evidence, +that after formidable shocks of earthquake, repeated with little +interruption during the whole night of the 19th of November (and the +shocks were continued afterwards, at intervals, for several months) IT +APPEARED, on the morning of the 20th, THAT THE WHOLE LINE OF COAST FROM +NORTH TO SOUTH, TO A DISTANCE OF ABOUT ONE HUNDRED MILES, HAD BEEN RAISED +ABOVE ITS FORMER LEVEL. The alteration of level at Valparaiso was about +three feet; and some rocks were thus newly exposed, on which the +fishermen collected the scallop-shell fish, which was not known to exist +there before the earthquake. At Quintero the elevation was about four +feet. "When I went," the narrator adds, "to examine the coast, although +it was high-water, I found the ancient bed of the sea laid bare, and dry, +with beds of oysters, mussels, and other shells adhering to the rocks on +which they grew, the fish being all dead, and exhaling most offensive +effluvia. And I found good reason to believe that the coast had been +raised by earthquakes at former periods in a similar manner; several +ancient lines of beach, consisting OF SHINGLE MIXED WITH SHELLS, +extending, in a parallel direction to the shore, to the height of fifty +feet above the sea." Such an accumulation of geological evidence, from +different quarters and distinct classes of phenomena, concurs to +demonstrate the existence of most powerful expansive forces within the +earth, and to testify their agency in producing the actual condition of +its surface, that the phenomena just now described are nothing more than +what was to be expected from previous induction. These facts, however, +not only place beyond dispute the existence of such forces, but show +that, even in detail, their effects accord most satisfactorily with the +predictions of theory. It is not, therefore, at all unreasonable to +conceive, that, in other situations, phenomena of the same character have +been produced by the same cause, though we may not at present be enabled +to trace its connexion with the existing appearances so distinctly; and +though the facts, when they occurred, may have been unnoticed, or may +have taken place at periods beyond the reach of historical record, or +even beyond the possibility of human testimony. + +(*Footnote. Peron Voyage etc. volume 2 pages 165 to 183.) + +(**Footnote. Geological Transactions Second Series volume 1 page 403, +404.) + +(***Footnote. The statements here referred to, are those of Mrs. Graham, +in a letter to Mr. Warburton, which has been published in the Geological +Transactions Second Series volume 1 page 412, etc.; and the account is +supported and illustrated by a valuable paper in the Journal of the Royal +Institution for April 1824 volume 17 page 38 etc.) The writer of this +latter article asserts that the whole country, from the foot of the Andes +to far out at sea, was raised by the earthquake; the greatest rise being +at the distance of about two miles from the shore. The rise upon the +coast was from two to four feet: at the distance of a mile, inland, it +must have been from five to six, or seven feet, pages 40, 45.) + +M. Peron has attributed the great abundance of the modern breccia of New +Holland to the large proportion of calcareous matter, principally in the +form of comminuted shells, which is diffused through the siliceous sand +of the shores in that country;* and as the temperature, especially of the +summer, is very high on that part of the coast where this rock has been +principally found, the increased solution of carbonate of lime by the +percolating water, may possibly render its formation more abundant there, +than in more temperate climates. But the true theory of these +concretions, under any modification of temperature, is attended with +considerable difficulty: and it is certain that the process is far from +being confined to the warmer latitudes. Dr. Paris has given an account of +a modern formation of sandstone on the northern coast of Cornwall;** +where a large surface is covered with a calcareous sand, that becomes +agglutinated into a stone, which he considers as analogous to the rocks +of Guadaloupe; and of which the specimens that I have seen, resemble +those presented by Captain Beaufort to the Geological Society, from the +shore at Rhodes. Dr. Paris ascribes this concretion, not to the agency of +the sea, nor to an excess of carbonic acid, but to the solution of +carbonate of lime itself in water, and subsequent percolation through +calcareous sand; the great hardness of the stone arising from the very +sparing solubility of this carbonate, and the consequently very gradual +formation of the deposit--Dr. MacCulloch describes calcareous +concretions, found in banks of sand in Perthshire, which present a great +variety of stalactitic forms, generally more or less complicated, and +often exceedingly intricate and strange,*** and which appear to be +analogous to those of King George's Sound and Sweer's Island: And he +mentions, as not unfrequently occurring in sand, in different parts of +England (the sand above the fossil bones of Norfolk is given as an +example) long cylinders or tubes, composed of sand agglutinated by +carbonate of lime, or calcareous stalactites entangling sand, which, like +the concretions of Madeira, and those taken for corals at Bald-Head, have +been ranked improperly, with organic remains. + +(*Footnote. Peron Voyage etc. 2 page 116.) + +(**Footnote. Transactions of the Geological Society of Cornwall volume 1 +page 1 etc.) + +(***Footnote. On an arenaceo-calcareous substance, etc. Quarterly Journal +Royal Institution October 1823 volume 16 page 79 to 83.) + +The stone which forms the fragments in the breccia of New Holland, is +very nearly the same with that of the cement by which they are united, +the difference consisting only in the greater proportion of sand which +the fragments contain: and it would seem, that after the consolidation of +the former, and while the deposition of similar calcareous matter was +still in progress, the portions first consolidated must have been +shattered by considerable violence. But, where no such fragments exist, +the unequal diffusion of components at first uniformly mixed, and even +the formation of nodules differing in proportions from the paste which +surrounds them, may perhaps admit of explanation, by some process +analogous to what takes place in the preparation of the compound of which +the ordinary earthenware is manufactured; where, though the ingredients +are divided by mechanical attrition only, a sort of chemical action +produces, under certain circumstances, a new arrangement of the parts.* +And this explanation may, probably, be extended to those nodular +concretions, generally considered as contemporaneous with the paste in +which they are enveloped, the distinction of which, from conglomerates of +mechanical origin, forms, in many cases, a difficulty in geology. What +the degree may be, of subdivision required to dispose the particles to +act thus upon each other, or of fluidity to admit of their action, +remains still to be determined. + +(*Footnote. The clay and pulverized flints are combined for the use of +the potter, by being first separately diffused in water to the +consistence of thick cream, and when mixed in due proportion are reduced +to a proper consistence by evaporation. During this process, if the +evaporation be not rapid and immediate, or if the ingredients are left to +act on each other, even for twenty-four hours, the flinty particles unite +into sandy grains, and the mass becomes unfit for the purposes of the +manufacturer. I am indebted for this interesting fact, which, I believe, +is well known in some of the potteries, to my friend Mr. Arthur Aikin. +And Mr. Herschel informs me, that a similar change takes place in +recently precipitated carbonate of copper; which, if left long moist, +concretes into hard gritty grains, of a green colour, much more +difficultly soluble in ammonia than the original precipitate.) + +6. As the superficial extent of Australia is more than three-fourths of +that of Europe, and the interior may be regarded as unknown,* any +theoretic inferences, from the slight geological information hitherto +obtained respecting this great island, are very likely to be deceitful; +but among the few facts already ascertained respecting the northern +portion of it, there are some which appear to afford a glimpse of general +structure. + +Captain Flinders, in describing the position of the chains of islands on +the north-west coast of Carpentaria, Wessel's, the English Company's, and +Bromby's Islands, remarks, that he had "frequently observed a great +similarity both in the ground plans, and the elevations of hills, and of +islands, in the vicinity of each other, but did not recollect another +instance of such a likeness in the arrangement of clusters of islands."* +The appearances which called for this observation, from a voyager of so +much sagacity and experience in physical geography, must probably have +been very remarkable; and, combined with information derivable from the +charts, and from the specimens for which we are indebted to Captain King +and Mr. Brown, they would seem to point out the arrangement of the strata +on the northern coasts of New Holland. + +(*Footnote. The following are the proportions assigned by Captain de +Freycinet to the principal divisions of the globe. Voyage aux Terres +Australes page 107. + +COLUMN 1: DIVISION OF THE GLOBE. +COLUMN 2: AREA IN FRENCH LEAGUES SQUARE. +COLUMN 3: PROPORTION. + +Asia : 2,200,000 : 17. +America : 2,100,000 : 17. +Africa : 1,560,000 : 12. +Europe : 501,875 : 4. +Australia : 384,375 : 3. + +The most remote points from the coast of New South Wales, to which the +late expeditions have penetrated (and the interior has never yet been +examined in any other quarter) are not above 500 miles, in a direct line +from the sea; the average width of the island from east to west being +more than 2000 miles, and from north to south more than 1000 miles.) + +(*Footnote. Flinders 5 2 page 246; and Charts, Plates 14 and 15. King's +Charts, Plate 4.) + +Of the three ranges which attracted Captain Flinders' notice (see the +Map) the first on the south-east (3, 4, 5, 6, 7) is that which includes +the Red Cliffs, Mallison's Island, a part of the coast of Arnhem's Land, +from Cape Newbold to Cape Wilberforce, and Bromby's Isles; and its +length, from the mainland (3) on the south-west of Mallison's Island, to +Bromby's Isles (7) is more than fifty miles, in a direction nearly from +south-west to north-east. The English Company's Islands (2, 2, 2, 2) at a +distance of about four miles, are of equal extent; and the general +trending of them all, Captain Flinders states (page 233) is nearly +North-East by East, parallel with the line of the main coast, and with +Bromby's Islands. Wessel's Islands (1, 1, 1, 1) the third or most +northern chain, at fourteen miles from the second range, stretch out to +more than eighty miles from the mainland, likewise in the same direction. + +It is also stated by Captain Flinders, that three of the English +Company's Islands which were examined, slope down nearly to the water on +their west sides; but on the east, and more especially the south-east, +they present steep cliffs; and the same conformation, he adds, seemed to +prevail in the other islands.* If this structure occurred only in one or +two instances, it might be considered as accidental; but as it obtains in +so many cases, and is in harmony with the direction of the ranges, it is +not improbably of still more extensive occurrence, and would intimate a +general elevation of the strata towards the south-east. + +(*Footnote. Flinders Volume 2 page 235.) + +Now on examining the general map, it will be seen, that the lines of the +coast on the mainland, west of the Gulf of Carpentaria, between Limmen's +Bight and Cape Arnhem--from the bottom of Castlereagh Bay to Point +Dale--less distinctly from Point Pearce, latitude 14 degrees 23 minutes, +longitude 129 degrees 18 minutes, to the western extremity of Cobourg +Peninsula, and from Point Coulomb, latitude 17 degrees 20 minutes, +longitude 123 degrees 11 minutes, to Cape Londonderry, have nearly the +same direction; the first line being about one hundred and eighty +geographical miles, the second more than three hundred, and the last more +than four hundred miles, in length.* And these lines, though broken by +numerous irregularities, especially on the north-west coast, are yet +sufficiently distinct to indicate a probable connexion with the +geological structure of the country; since the coincidence of similar +ranges of coast with the direction of the strata, is a fact of very +frequent occurrence in other parts of the globe.** And it is observable +that considerable uniformity exists in the specimens, from the different +places in this quarter of New Holland which have been hitherto examined; +sandstone, like that of the older formations of Europe occurring +generally on the north and north-west coasts, and appearing to be +extensively diffused on the north-west of the Gulf of Carpentaria, where +it reposes upon primitive rocks.*** + +(*Footnote. It is deserving of notice, that the coast of Timor, the +nearest land on the north-west, at the distance of about 300 miles, is +also nearly straight, and parallel to the Coast of New Holland in this +quarter: part of the mountainous range, of which that island consists, +being probably more than 9000 feet high; and its length, from the +north-eastern extremity to the South-West of the adjoining island of +Rottee, about 300 miles. But, unfortunately for the hypothesis, a chain +of islands immediately on the north of Timor, is continued nearly in a +right line for more than 1200 miles (from Sermatta Island to the +south-eastern extremity of Java) in a direction FROM EAST TO WEST. This +chain, however, contains several volcanoes, including those of Sumbawa, +the eruption of which, in 1815, was of extraordinary violence. See Royal +Inst. Journal volume 1 1816 page 248 etc. + +At Lacrosse Island, in the mouth of Cambridge Gulf, on the north-west +coast of New Holland, the beds rise to the North-West: their direction +consequently is from South-West to North-East; and the rise towards the +high land of Timor. The intervening sea is very shallow.) + +(**Footnote. A remarkable case of this kind, which has not, I believe, +been noticed, occurs in the Mediterranean; and is conspicuous in the new +chart of that sea, by Captain W.H. Smyth. The eastern coast of Corsica +and Sardinia, for a space of more than two hundred geographical miles +being nearly rectilinear, in a direction from north to south; and, +Captain Smyth has informed me, consisting almost entirely of granite, or, +at least, of primitive rocks. The coast of Norway affords another +instance of the same description; and the details of the ranges in the +interior of England furnish several examples of the same kind, on a +smaller scale.) + +(***Footnote. The coastlines nearly at rightangles to those +above-mentioned--from the South-East of the Gulf of Carpentaria to +Limmen's Bight, from Cape Arnhem to Cape Croker, and from Cape Domett to +Cape Londonderry--have also a certain degree of linearity; but much less +remarkable, than those which run from South-West to North-East.) + +The horn-like projection of the land, on the east of the Gulf of +Carpentaria, is a very prominent feature in the general map of Australia, +and may possibly have some connexion with the structure just pointed out. +The western shore of this horn, from the bottom of the gulf to Endeavour +Straits, being very low; while the land on the east coast rises in +proceeding towards the south, and after passing Cape Weymouth, latitude +12 degrees 30 minutes, is in general mountainous and abrupt; and Captain +King's specimens from the north-east coast show that granite is found in +so many places along this line as to make it probable that primitive +rocks may form the general basis of the country in that quarter; since a +lofty chain of mountains is continued on the south of Cape Tribulation, +not far from the shore, throughout a space of more than five hundred +miles. It would carry this hypothesis too far to infer that these +primitive ranges are connected with the mountains on the west of the +English settlements near Port Jackson, etc., where Mr. Scott has +described the coal-measures as occupying the coast from Port Stevens, +about latitude 33 degrees to Cape Howe, latitude 37 degrees, and as +succeeded, on the eastern ascent of the Blue Mountains, by sandstone, and +this again by primitive strata:* But it may be noticed that Wilson's +Promontory, the most southern point of New South Wales, and the principal +islands in Bass Strait, contain granite; and that primitive rocks occur +extensively in Van Diemen's Land. + +(*Footnote. Annals of Philosophy June 1824.) + +The uniformity of the coastlines is remarkable also in some other +quarters of Australia; and their direction, as well as that of the +principal openings, has a general tendency to a course from the west of +south to the east of north. This, for example, is the general range of +the south-east coast, from Cape Howe, about latitude 37 degrees, to Cape +Byron, latitude 29 degrees, or even to Sandy Cape, latitude 25 degrees; +and of the western coast, from the south of the islands which enclose +Shark's Bay, latitude 26 degrees, to North-west Cape, about latitude 22 +degrees. From Cape Hamelin, latitude 34 degrees 12 minutes, to Cape +Naturaliste, latitude 33 degrees 26 minutes, the coast runs nearly on the +meridian. The two great fissures of the south coast, Spencer's, and St. +Vincent's Gulfs, as well as the great northern chasm of the Gulf of +Carpentaria, have a corresponding direction; and Captain Flinders (Chart +4) represents a high ridge of rocky and barren mountains, on the east of +Spencer's Gulf, as continued, nearly from north to south, through a space +of more than one hundred geographical miles, between latitude 32 degrees +7 minutes and 34 degrees. Mount Brown, one of the summits of this ridge, +about latitude 32 degrees 30 minutes, being visible at the distance of +twenty leagues. + +The tendency of all this evidence is somewhat in favour of a general +parallelism in the range of the strata, and perhaps of the existence of +primary ranges of mountains on the east of Australia in general, from the +coast about Cape Weymouth* to the shore between Spencer's Gulf and Cape +Howe. But it must not be forgotten, that the distance between these +shores is more than a thousand miles in a direct line; about as far as +from the west coast of Ireland to the Adriatic, or double the distance +between the Baltic and the Mediterranean. If, however, future researches +should confirm the indications above mentioned, a new case will be +supplied in support of the principle long since advanced by Mr. +Michell,** which appears (whatever theory be formed to explain it) to be +established by geological observation in so many other parts of the +world, that the outcrop of the inclined beds, throughout the stratified +portion of the globe, is everywhere parallel to the longer ridges of +mountains, towards which, also, the elevation of the strata is directed. +But in the present state of our information respecting Australia, all +such general views are so very little more than mere conjecture, that the +desire to furnish ground for new inquiry, is, perhaps, the best excuse +that can be offered for having proposed them. + +(*Footnote. The possible correspondence of the great Australian Bight, +the coast of which in general is of no great elevation, with the +deeply-indented Gulf of Carpentaria, tending, as it were, to a division +of this great island into two, accords with this hypothesis of mountain +ranges: but the distance between these recesses, over the land at the +nearest points, is not less than a thousand English miles. The granite, +on the south coast, at Investigator's Islands, and westward, at Middle +Island, Cape Le Grand, King George's Sound, and Cape Naturaliste, is very +wide of the line above-mentioned, and nothing is yet known of its +relations.) + +(**Footnote. On the Cause of Earthquakes. Philosophical Transactions 1760 +volume 51 page 566 to 585, 586.) + +... + + +DETAILED LIST OF SPECIMENS. + +The specimens mentioned in the following list have been compared with +some of those of England and other countries, principally in the cabinets +of the Geological Society, and of Mr. Greenough; and with a collection +from part of the confines of the primitive tracts of England and North +Wales, formed by Mr. Arthur Aikin, and now in his own possession. Captain +King's collection has been presented to the Geological Society; and +duplicates of Mr. Brown's specimens are deposited in the British Museum. + +RODD'S BAY, on the East Coast, discovered by Captain King, about sixty +miles south of Cape Capricorn.* Reddish sandstone, of moderately-fine +grain, resembling that which in England occurs in the coal formation, and +beneath it (mill-stone grit). A sienitic compound, consisting of a large +proportion of reddish felspar, with specks of a green substance, probably +mica; resembling a rock from Shap in Cumberland. + +(*Footnote. In Captain King's collection are also specimens found on the +beach at Port Macquarie, and in the bed of the Hastings River, of common +serpentine, and of botryoidal magnesite, from veins in serpentine. The +magnesite agrees nearly with that of Baudissero, in Piedmont. (See +Cleaveland's Mineralogy 1st edition page 345.) + +CAPE CLINTON, between Rodd's Bay and the Percy Islands. Porphyritic +conglomerate, with a base of decomposed felspar, enclosing grains of +quartz and common felspar, and some fragments of what appears to be +compact epidote; very nearly resembling specimens from the trap rocks* of +the Wrekin and Breeden Hills in Shropshire. Reddish and yellowish sandy +clay, coloured by oxide of iron, and used as pigments by the natives. + +(*Footnote. By the terms Trap, and Trap-formation, which I am aware are +extremely vague, I intend merely to signify a class of rocks, including +several members, which differ from each other considerably in +mineralogical character, but agree in some of their principal geological +relations; and the origin of which very numerous phenomena concur in +referring to some modification of volcanic agency. The term Greenstone +also is of very loose application, and includes rocks that exhibit a wide +range of characters; the predominant colour being some shade of green, +the structure more or less crystalline, and the chief ingredients +supposed to be hornblende and felspar, but the components, if they could +be accurately determined, probably more numerous and varied, than +systematic lists imply.) + +PERCY ISLANDS, about one hundred and forty miles north of Cape Capricorn. +Compact felspar of a flesh-red hue, enclosing a few small crystals of +reddish felspar and of quartz. This specimen is marked "general character +of the rocks at Percy Island," and very much resembles the compact +felspar of the Pentland Hills near Edinburgh, and of Saxony. Coarse +porphyritic conglomerate, of a reddish hue. Serpentine. A trap-like +compound, with somewhat the aspect of serpentine, but yielding with +difficulty to the knife. This specimen has, at first sight, the +appearance of a conglomerate, made up of portions of different hues, +purplish, brown, and green; but the coloured parts are not otherwise +distinguishable in the fracture: It very strongly resembles a rock which +occurs in the trap-formation, near Lyd-Hole, at Pont-y-Pool, in +Shropshire. Slaty clay, with particles of mica, like that which +frequently occurs immediately beneath beds of coal. + +REPULSE ISLAND, in Repulse Bay, about one hundred and twenty miles +north-west of the Percy Islands. Indistinct specimens, apparently +consisting of decomposed compact felspar. A compound of quartz, mica, and +felspar, having the appearance of re-composed granite. + +CAPE CLEVELAND, about one hundred and twenty miles north of Repulse +Island. Yellowish-grey granite, with brown mica; "from the summit of the +hill." Reddish granite, of very fine grain; with the aspect of sandstone. +Dark grey porphyritic hornstone, approaching to compact felspar, with +imbedded crystals of felspar. + +CAPE GRAFTON, about one hundred and eighty miles west of north from Cape +Cleveland. Close-grained grey and yellowish-grey granite, with brown +mica. A reddish granitic stone, composed of quartz, felspar, and +tourmaline. + +ENDEAVOUR RIVER, about one hundred miles west of north from Cape Grafton. +Grey granite of several varieties; from a peaked hill under Mount Cook +and its vicinity. Granular quartz-rock of several varieties: and +indistinct specimens of a rock approaching to talc-slate. + +LIZARD ISLAND, about fifty miles east of north from Endeavour River. Grey +granite, consisting of brown and white mica, quartz, and a large +proportion of felspar somewhat decomposed. + +CLACK ISLAND, near Cape Flinders, on the north-west of Cape Melville, +about ninety miles north-west of Lizard Island. Smoke-grey micaceous +slaty-clay, much like certain beds of the old red sandstone, where it +graduates into grey wacke. This specimen was taken from a horizontal bed +about ten feet in thickness, reposing upon a mass of pudding-stone, which +included large pebbles of quartz and jasper; and above it was a mass of +sandstone, more than sixty feet thick. (Narrative volume 2.) + +SUNDAY ISLAND, near Cape Grenville, about one hundred and seventy miles +west of north from Cape Melville. Compact felspar, of a flesh-red colour; +very nearly resembling that of the Percy Islands, above-mentioned. + +GOOD'S ISLAND, one of the Prince of Wales group, about latitude 10 +degrees, thirty-four miles north-west of Cape York. The specimens, in Mr. +Brown's collection from this place, consist of coarse-slaty porphyritic +conglomerate, with a base of greenish-grey compact felspar, containing +crystals of reddish felspar and quartz. This rock has some resemblance to +that of Clack Island above-mentioned. + +SWEER'S ISLAND, south of Wellesley's group, at the bottom of the Gulf of +Carpentaria. A stalactitic concretion of quartzose sand, and fine gravel, +cemented by reddish carbonate of lime; apparently of the same nature with +the stem-like concretions of King George's Sound: (See hereafter.) In +this specimen the tubular cavity of the stalactite is still open. + +The shore, in various parts of this island, was found to consist of red +ferruginous matter (Bog-iron-ore ?) sometimes unmixed, but not +unfrequently mingled with a sandy calcareous stone; and in some places +rounded portions of the ferruginous matter were enveloped in a calcareous +cement. + +BENTINCK ISLAND, near Sweer's Island. A granular compound, like sandstone +recomposed from the debris of granite. Brown hematite, enclosing +quartzose sand. + +PISONIA ISLAND, on the east of Mornington's Island, is composed of +calcareous breccia and pudding-stone, which consist of a sandy calcareous +cement, including water-worn portions of reddish ferruginous matter, with +fragments of shells. + +NORTH ISLAND, one of Sir Edward Pellew's group. Coarse siliceous sand, +concreted by ferruginous matter; which, in some places, is in the state +of brown hematite. Calcareous incrustations, including fragments of +madrepores, and of shells, cemented by splintery carbonate of lime. + +CAPE-MARIA ISLAND, in Limmen's Bight, was found by Mr. Brown to be +composed principally of sandstone. The specimens from this place, +however, consist of grey splintery hornstone, with traces of a slaty +structure; and of yellowish-grey flint, approaching to chalcedony; with a +coarse variety of cacholong, containing small nests of quartz crystals. + +GROOTE EYLANDT is composed of sandstone, of which two different varieties +occur among the specimens. A quartzose reddish sandstone, of moderately +fine grain; and a coarse reddish compound, consisting almost exclusively +of worn pebbles of quartz, some of which are more than half an inch in +diameter, with a few rounded pebbles of chalcedony. The latter rock is +nearly identical with that of Simms' Island, near Goulburn's Island on +the north coast. + +CHASM ISLAND, WINCHELSEA ISLAND, and BURNEY'S ISLAND, are of the same +materials as Groote Eylandt: and sandstone was found also on the western +shore of BLUE-MUD BAY. + +On the shore of the mainland, opposite to Groote Eylandt, a little north +of latitude 14 degrees, Mr. Brown observed the common sandy calcareous +stone, projecting here and there in ragged fragments. + +MORGAN'S ISLAND, in Blue-Mud Bay, north-west of Groote Eylandt, is +composed principally of clink-stone, sometimes indistinctly columnar. But +among the specimens are also a coarse conglomerate of a dull purplish +colour, including pebbles of granular quartz and a fragment of a slaty +rock like potstone: the hue and aspect of the compound being precisely +those of the oldest sandstones. Reddish quartzose sandstone, of uniform +and fine grain. A concretion of rounded quartz pebbles, cemented by +ferruginous matter, apparently of recent formation. + +ROUND HILL, near Cape Grindall, a prominence east of north from Blue-Mud +Bay, was found by Captain Flinders to consist, at the upper part, of +sandstone. The specimens of the rocks in its vicinity are, dark grey +granite, somewhat approaching to gneiss, with a few specks of garnet; and +a calcareous, probably concretional stone, enclosing the remains of +shells, with cavities lined with crystals of calcareous spar. + +MOUNT CALEDON, on the mainland, west of Caledon Bay, consists of grey +granite, with dark brown mica in small quantity; and on the sides and top +of the hill large loose blocks of that rock were observed, resting upon +other blocks. + +A small island, near Cape Arnhem, is also composed of granite, in which +the felspar has a bluish hue. + +Smaller of the MELVILLE ISLANDS, north-east of Melville Bay.* A +botryoidal mass of ferruginous oxide of manganese, approaching to +hematite; the fissures in some places occupied by carbonate of lime. + +(*Footnote. The relative position of the islands and bays on this part of +the coast is represented in the enlarged Map.) + +MELVILLE BAY. Granite, composed of grey and somewhat bluish felspar, dark +brown mica, and a little quartz; containing minute disseminated specks of +molybdena, and indistinct crystals of pale red garnet. + +RED CLIFFS, south-west of Arnhem Bay; on the line of the first chain of +islands mentioned by Captain Flinders. (See the Map, figure 3.) Friable +conglomerate, of a full brick-red colour, consisting of minute grains of +quartz, with a large proportion of ochreous matter. + +MALLISON'S ISLAND. (Map, figure 4.) The cliffs of this island are +composed of a fissile primitive rock, on which sandstone reposes in +regular beds. The specimen of the former resembles gneiss, or mica slate, +near the contact with granite: the sandstone is thick-slaty, quartzose, +of a reddish hue, with mica disseminated on the surfaces of the joints; +and one face of the specimen is incrusted with quartz crystals, thinly +coated with botryoidal hematite. Light grey quartzose sandstone of a fine +grain, with a thin coating of brown hematite, was also found in this +island: And a breccia, consisting of angular fragments of sandstone, +cemented by thin, vein-like, coatings of dark brown hematite, was found +there, in loose blocks at the bottom of perpendicular cliffs. The +specimen of this breccia is attached to a plate of granular quartz, and +may possibly have been part of a vein. + +The shore of INGLIS' ISLAND, the largest of the ENGLISH COMPANY'S RANGE +(2. 2. 2. in the Map) is formed of flat beds, of a slaty argillaceous +rock, which breaks into rhomboidal fragments; but the specimen is +indistinct. Ferruginous masses, probably consisting of brown hematite, +come also from this island. + +ASTELL'S ISLAND, north-east of Inglis' Isle. Very fine-grained +greyish-white quartzose sandstone; identical with that of Mallison's +Island, and very closely resembling some of the specimens from Prince +Regent's and Hunter's Rivers. + +Among the remaining islands of this range, BOSANQUET'S, COTTON'S, and +POBASSOO's Isles, were found by Mr. Brown to consist, in a great measure, +of sandstone, of the same character with the specimens above-mentioned. + +POBASSOO'S ISLAND, a small islet south-east of Astell's Isle. +Fine-grained, somewhat reddish, sandstone. Another specimen of sandstone +is friable, of a light flesh-red colour, and apparently composed of the +debris of granite. A crystalline rock, consisting of greenish-grey +hornblende, with a very small proportion of felspar (Hornblende rock ?). +Fragment, apparently from a columnar mass, of a stone intermediate +between clink-stone and compact felspar. + +Such of the English Company's Islands as were examined by Captain +Flinders, are stated by him to consist, in the upper part, of a grit, or +sandstone, of a close texture; the lower part being argillaceous, and +stratified, and separating into pieces of a reddish colour, resembling +flat tiles. The strata-dip to the west, at an angle of about 15 degrees. + +South-west bay of GOULBURN'S SOUTH ISLAND, two hundred and fifty miles +west of the Gulf of Carpentaria (Narrative 1). Coarse-grained reddish +quartzose conglomerate and sandstone; resembling the older sandstones of +England and Wales, and especially the mill-stone grit beneath the coal +formation. Fine greyish-white pipe-clay; of which about thirty feet in +thickness were visible, apparently above the sandstone last mentioned. +Coarse-grained, ferruginous sandstone, containing fragments of quartz, +from above the pipe-clay. The appearance of the cliff from which these +specimens were taken, is represented in the view of the bay on the south +of Goulburn Island (volume 1); and a distant head in the view consists of +the same materials. + +SIMMS ISLAND, on the west of Goulburn's south Island (Narrative 1) is +composed of a reddish conglomerate, nearly identical with some of the +specimens above-mentioned. + +The western side of LETHBRIDGE BAY, on the north of MELVILLE ISLAND, +consists of a range of cliffs like those at Goulburn's Island; the upper +part being red, the lower white and composed of pipe-clay. The western +extremity of BATHURST ISLAND, between CAPE HELVETIUS and CAPE FOURCROY, +is also formed of cliffs of a very dark red colour. + +LACROSSE ISLAND, at the mouth of CAMBRIDGE GULF, about one hundred miles +from Port Keats. Reddish, very quartzose sandstone; from a stratum which +dips to the south-east, at an angle of about ten or fifteen degrees. +Micaceous and argillaceous fissile sandstone, of purplish and greenish +hues, in patches, or occasionally intermixed; precisely resembling the +rock of Brecon, in South Wales, and, generally, the old red sandstone of +the vicinity of Bristol and the confines of England and Wales. +Fine-grained thin-slaty sandstone, resembling certain beds of the coal +formation, or of the millstone grit, is found in large masses, under an +argillaceous cliff, on the north side of Lacrosse Island. + +The specimens from the interior of Cambridge Gulf are from ADOLPHUS +ISLAND, and consist of reddish and grey sandstone, more or less +decomposed. + +VANSITTART BAY, about one hundred and forty miles north-west of Cambridge +Gulf. Reddish quartzose sandstone, or quartz-rock. Indistinct specimens +of greenstone, with adhering quartz; apparently a primitive rock. + +PORT WARRENDER, at the bottom of Admiralty Gulf, about forty miles +south-west of Vansittart Bay (Narrative volume 1). Epidote and quartz, in +small crystals confusedly interlaced; apparently from veins, or nests, +but unaccompanied by any portion of the adjacent rock. The structure in +one of these specimens approaches to the amygdaloidal. A compact greenish +stone, with disseminated crystalline spots of epidote, and of quartz, and +apparently consisting of an intimate mixture of those minerals, is also +among the specimens from Port Warrender. + +All these specimens are from detached water-worn masses at the foot of +Crystal Head, on the south-west of the port. The summit of the head is +flat and tabular, and the rocks in the vicinity are described by Captain +King as consisting of siliceous sandstone. Chalcedony, apparently from +amygdaloid of the trap formation, was also found at Port Warrender. + +The epidote of this place is in general of a pale-greenish colour, but is +mixed with, and sometimes appears to pass into, spots of a rich +purplish-brown. The specimens resemble generally the epidote of Dauphiny +and Siberia; but Mr. Levy, who has been so good as to examine them, +informs me that the crystals exhibit some modifications not described +either by Hauy, or by Mr. Haidinger in his paper on this mineral, and +which are probably peculiar to this locality. + +WATER ISLAND, on the west side of CAPE VOLTAIRE, at the south-west +entrance of Port Warrender, is described (volume 1) as consisting of +quartzose sandstone; as is also KATER ISLAND, in Montagu Sound. And the +same rock appears to occur throughout the islands on this part of the +coast. (Narrative 1.) + +MONTAGU SOUND, about five-and-twenty miles south-west of ADMIRALTY GULF +(Narrative 1). Greyish granular quartz; like that of the Lickey Hill, in +Worcestershire. Fine-grained quartzose sandstone, of a purplish hue, +resembling a rock on the banks of the Severn, near Bridgenorth. Grey and +reddish sandstone; apparently composed of the debris of granite, and very +nearly resembling that of Simms Island above-mentioned. + +HUNTER'S RIVER, falling into YORK SOUND, on the north-east side. Somewhat +coarse reddish-white sandstone; like that of the coal formation, and some +varieties of millstone grit. Fine-grained, reddish-grey quartzose +sandstone, having the appearance of stratification, and resembling the +rocks of Cambridge Gulf. + +ROE'S RIVER, at the eastern termination of York Sound (Narrative 1) runs +between precipitous banks of sandstone, in nearly horizontal strata, +which rise to the height of three hundred feet. + +CAREENING BAY, between York Sound and Prince Regent's River (Narrative +volume 1. See the plate volume 1). Crystalline epidote, and whitish +quartz, apparently from a vein. Purplish-brown epidote, with small nests +or concretions of green epidote and quartz; forming a sort of amygdaloid. +Conglomerate, containing angular fragments of yellowish-grey quartz-rock, +in a base of compact epidote. A nearly uniform greenish compound of +epidote intimately mixed with quartz, also occurs at this place. Flat +lamellar chalcedony. Very fine-grained reddish-grey quartzose sandstone, +with traces of a slaty structure, resembling that of York Sound, and +Cambridge Gulf, was found in the north-east end of this bay; and +fine-grained greenstone, on the summit of the adjacent hills. + +Several of these specimens are almost identical with those of Port +Warrender; from which place Careening Bay is distant about sixty miles. + +BAT ISLAND (Narrative volume 1) western entrance of Careening Bay. Quartz +from thin veins, with particles of an adhering rock, probably +chlorite-slate. Quartz, containing disseminated hematitic iron-ore and +copper pyrites. Quartz crystals, with chalcedony, from nodules in +amygdaloid. Quartz with specular iron ore. Greenstone, with chalcedony +and copper pyrites. A decomposed stone, probably consisting of wacke. The +specimens of trap-rocks from this place are from a cavern. + +GREVILLE ISLAND, near the entrance of Prince Regent's River. Reddish, +coarsely granular, siliceous sandstone; in horizontal strata, intersected +by veins of crystallized quartz.* + +(*Footnote. Narrative volume 2.) + +HALF-WAY BAY, within Prince Regent's River on the west of the entrance, +near Greville Island. Hornblende rock ? nearly agreeing with that of +Pobassoo's Island, on the north-west of the Gulf of Carpentaria (see +above). Calcedony, apparently from nodules in amygdaloid. Greenish +quartz, approaching to heliotrope. Red, somewhat slaty jasper, mixed with +quartz and chalcedony, and containing specular iron ore. + +The specimens from this place much resemble some of those from Sotto i +Sassi, in the Val di Fassa in the Tyrol, which I have seen in the +collection of Mr. Herschel; and which consist of reddish jasper with +chalcedony, and a greenish flinty stone, like heliotrope, the whole +belonging to the trap-formation. + +POINT CUNNINGHAM, east of south from Cape Leveque, and about one hundred +and fifty miles south-west of Prince Regent's River. Very compact and +fine-grained reddish granular quartz, with a glistening lustre, and flat +conchoidal fracture. This stone, though so compact in the recent +fracture, has distinct traces of stratification on the decomposed +surface, which is of a dull reddish hue. Bright red ferruginous granular +quartz (Eisen-kiesel ?) with a glistening lustre, and a somewhat porous +texture. A specimen of the soil of the hills at Cygnet Bay, consists of +very fine reddish-yellow quartzose sand. A large rounded pebble, +consisting of ferruginous granular quartz, of a dark purplish-brown +colour, and considerable density, was found here; near a fireplace of the +natives, by whom it is used for making their hatchets; with a fragment of +a calcareous incrustation, like that of the west coast hereafter +mentioned. + +The next specimens in Captain King's collection--a space of more than +three hundred miles on this coast not having been examined by him--are +from MALUS ISLAND, in Dampier's Archipelago (see Narrative volume 1) they +consist of fine-grained greenstone, and what appears to be a basaltic +rock, of amygdaloidal structure. + +DIRK HARTOG'S ISLAND, west of Shark's Bay. A compound of rather +fine-grained translucent quartzose sand, cemented by carbonate of lime, +of various shades of reddish and yellowish grey. This stone has in some +places the structure of a breccia; the angles of the imbedded fragments, +which are from half an inch to two inches in diameter, being very +distinct--but in other parts, the fracture exhibits the appearance of +roundish nodules, composed of concentric shells--or bags as it were, of +calcareous matter, which vary in colour, and are filled with a mixture of +the same substance and quartzose sand: and the spaces between these +nodules are likewise occupied by a similar compound.* + +(*Footnote. The following description given by the French naturalists of +the rocks at Bernier's Islands, was probably taken from a large suite of +specimens; and M. Peron states (1 page 204) that it is strictly +applicable to all the adjacent parts of the continent, and of the islands +that were examined by the French voyagers: + +Le sable du rivage (de l'ile Bernier) est quartzeux, mele d'une grande +proportion de debris calcaires fortement attenues. La substance de l'ile +meme se compose, dans ses couches inferieures, d'un gres calcaire +coquillier, tantot blanchatre, tantot rougeatre, depose par couches +horizontales, dont l'epaisseur varie de 2 a 8 decimetres (7 a 11 pouces) +et qui toutes etant tres uniformes dans leur prolongement, pourroient +offrir a la maconnerie des pierres de construction naturellement +taillees. + +Les coquilles incrustees dans ces massifs des roches sont presque toutes +univalves; elles apartiennent plus particulierement au genre Natice de M. +de Lamarck, et ont les plus grands rapports avec l'espece de Natice qui +se trouve vivante au pied de ces rochers. Elles sont sans doute +petrifiees depuis bien des siecles, car, outre qu'il est tres difficile +de les retirer intactes du milieu de ces gres, tant leur adhesion avec +eux est intime, on les observe encore a plus de 50 metres (150 pieds) au +dessus du niveau actuel de la mer. + +Quelque regularite que ces bancs puissent affecter dans leur disposition +generale, ils ne sont cependant pas tous homogenes dans leur substance; +il est sur-tout une variete de ces roches plus remarquable par sa +structure. Ce sont des galets calcaires, agreges dans une terre +sablonneuse ocracee, qui leur est tellement adherente, qu'on ne sauroit +detruire cette espece de gangue sans les briser eux memes. Tous ces +galets affectent la forme globlueuse, et se composent d'un grand nombre +de zones concentriques, qui se developpent autour d'un noyau central d'un +gres scintillant et brunatre. Ces diverses couches ont a peine quelques +millimitres d'epaisseur, et affectent des nuances agreables, qui varient +depuis le rouge-fonce jusqu'au jaune-clair. La disposition generale de +cette breche lui donne donc quelques rapports grossiers avec le granit +globuleux de l'ile de Corse; et, par ses couches rubanees, concentriques, +elle a quelque chose de l'aspect des Agathes-Onyx...Les bancs de gres +divers dont je viens de parler, constituent, a bien dire, la masse +entiere du pays qui nous occupe, etc. (Volume 1 page 110. See also +Freycinet page 187.) + +The cementing limestone in the rock of this island, is very like some of +the more compact portions of the stone of Guadaloupe, which contains the +human skeletons, the hardness and fracture being nearly the same in both. +The chief difference of these rocks seems to arise from the nature of the +cemented substances; which, in the Guadaloupe stone, being themselves +calcareous, are incorporated, or melted as it were, into the cement, by +insensible gradation;* while the quartzose sand, in that of Dirk Hartog's +Island, is strongly contrasted with the calcareous matter that surrounds +it.** But, wherever the imbedded fragments in the latter consist of +limestone, their union with the cement is complete. + +(*Footnote. See Mr. Koenig's Paper. Philosophical Transactions volume 104 +1814 page 107 etc.) + +(**Footnote. Captain King informs me that the soundings in this part of +the coast bring up a very fine quartzose-sand like that cemented in the +breccia.) + +ROTTNEST ISLAND, about four hundred and fifty miles south of Dirk +Hartog's Island. Indistinct specimens containing numerous fragments of +shells, in a calcareous cement; the substance of these shells has at +first sight the appearance of chalcedony, and is harder than ordinary +carbonate of lime. + +The characters of the shells in Captain King's specimens from this place +are indistinct; but the specimens at the Jardin du Roi, which, there is +reason to suppose, have come from this part of the coast, contain shells +of several species, belonging among others to the genera, corbula, chama, +cardium, porcellanea, turbo, cerithium. M. Prevost, to whom I am indebted +for this account, observes that notwithstanding the recent appearance of +the shells, the beds which contain them are stated to occur at a +considerable height above the sea: and he remarks that the aspect of the +rock is very like that of the shelly deposits of St. Hospice, near Nice. + +KING GEORGE'S SOUND, on the south coast, east of south from Cape Leeuwin. +Beautifully white and fine quartzose sand, from the sea-beach. Yellowish +grey granite, from Bald-head. Two varieties of a calcareous rock, of the +same nature with that of Dirk Hartog's Island; consisting of particles of +translucent quartzose sand, united by a cement of yellowish or +cream-coloured carbonate of lime, which has a flat conchoidal and +splintery fracture, and is so hard as to yield with difficulty to the +knife. In this compound, there are not any distinct angular fragments, as +in the stone of Dirk Hartog's Islands; but the calcareous matter is very +unequally diffused. + +A third form in which this recent calcareous matter appears, is that of +irregular, somewhat tortuous, stem-like bodies, with a rugged sandy +surface, and from half an inch to an inch in diameter; the cross fracture +of which shows that they are composed of sand, cemented by carbonate of +lime, either uniformly mixed throughout, or forming a crust around +calcareous matter of a spongy texture; in which latter case they have +some resemblance to the trunks or roots of trees. A mass, which seems to +have been of this description, is stated to have come from a height of +about two hundred and fifty feet above the sea, at Bald-head, on the +South Coast of Australia. These specimens, however, do not really exhibit +any traces of organic structure; and so nearly resemble the irregular +stalactitical concretions produced by the passage of calcareous or +ferruginous solutions through sand* that they are probably of the same +origin; indeed the central cavity of the stalactite still remains open in +some of the specimens of this kind from Sweer's Island in the Gulf of +Carpentaria. The specimens from Madeira, presented to the Geological +Society by Mr. Bowdich, and described in his notes on that island,** +appear upon examination to be of the same character. But there is no +reason to suppose that the trunks of trees, as well as other foreign +substances, may not be thus incrusted, since various foreign bodies, even +of artificial production, have been so found. Professor Buckland has +mentioned a specimen of concreted limestone from St. Helena, which +contains the recent shell of a bird's egg;*** and M. Peron states that, +in the concretional limestone rock of the South Coast of New Holland, the +trunks of trees occur, with the vegetable structure so distinct as to +leave no doubt as to their nature.**** + +(*Footnote. Tubular concretions of ferruginous matter, irregularly +ramifying through sand, like the roots of trees, are described by Captain +Lyon as occurring in Africa. Lyon's Travels Appendix page 65.) + +(**Footnote. Excursions in Madeira 1825 page 139, 140; and Bull. des +Sciences Naturelles volume 4 page 322.) + +(***Footnote. Geological Transactions volume 5 page 479.) + +(****Footnote. Peron 2 page 75.) + + +INSTRUCTIONS FOR COLLECTING GEOLOGICAL SPECIMENS. + +It so often happens that specimens sent from distant places, by persons +unpractised in geology, fail to give the instruction which is intended, +from the want of attention to a few necessary precautions, that the +following directions may perhaps be useful to some of those, into whose +hands these pages are likely to fall. It will be sufficient to premise, +that two of the principal objects of geological inquiry, are, to +determine, first, the nature of the MATERIALS of which the earth is +composed; and, secondly, the relative ORDER in which these materials are +disposed with respect to each other. + +1. Specimens of rocks ought not, in general, to be taken from loose +pieces, but from large masses in their native place, or which have +recently fallen from their natural situation. + +2. The specimens should consist of the stone unchanged by exposure to the +elements, which sometimes alter the characters to a considerable distance +from the surface. Petrifactions, however, are often best distinguishable +in masses somewhat decomposed; and are thus even rendered visible, in +many cases, where no trace of any organized body can be discerned in the +recent fracture. + +3. The specimens ought not to be too small. A convenient size is about +three inches square, and about three-quarters of an inch, or less, in +thickness. + +4. It seldom happens that large masses, even of the same kind of rock, +are uniform throughout any considerable space; so that the general +character is collected, by geologists who examine rocks in their native +places, from the average of an extensive surface: a collection ought +therefore to furnish specimens of the most characteristic varieties; and +THE MOST SPLENDID SPECIMENS ARE, IN GENERAL, NOT THE MOST INSTRUCTIVE. +Where several specimens are taken in the same place, a series of numbers +should be added to the note of their locality. + +5. One of the most advantageous situations for obtaining specimens, and +examining the relations of rocks, is in the sections afforded by cliffs +on the seashore; especially after recent falls of large masses. It +commonly happens that the beds thus exposed are more or less inclined; +and in this case, if any of them be inaccessible at a particular point, +the decline of the strata will frequently enable the collector to supply +himself with the specimens he wishes for, within a short distance. Thus, +in Sketch 4, which may be supposed to represent a cliff of considerable +height, the observer being situated at a, the beds b, c, d, though +inaccessible at that place, may be examined with ease and security, where +they successively come down to the shore, at b prime, c prime, and d +prime. + +6. To examine the interior of an unknown country, more skill and practice +are required: the rocks being generally concealed by the soil, +accumulations of sand, gravel, etc., and by the vegetation of the +surface. But the strata are commonly disclosed in the sides of ravines, +in the beds of rivers and mountain-streams; and these, especially where +they cross the direction of the strata, and be made, by careful +examination, to afford instructive sections. + +7. Among the distinctive circumstances of the strata, the remains of +organized bodies, shells, corals, and other zoophytes, the bones and +teeth of animals, fossil wood, and the impressions of vegetable stems, +roots, or leaves, etc., are of the greatest importance; affording +generally the most marked characters of the strata in which they occur. +These should, therefore, be particularly sought after, and their relative +abundance or rarity in different situations noticed. The petrified bodies +should, if possible, be kept united with portions of the rock or matrix +in which they are found; and where they are numerous, in sand, clay, or +any moist or friable matrix, it is in general better to retain a large +portion of the whole mass, to be examined afterwards, than to attempt +their separation at the time of collecting. + +8. The loose materials which are found above the solid rocks, in the form +of gravel, silt, rolled pebbles, etc., should be carefully distinguished +from the solid strata upon which they repose. And the more ancient of +these loose materials, found on the sides or summits of hills, etc., +should be distinguished from the recent mud, sand, and gravel, brought +down by land-floods, or rivers. The bones and teeth of animals are not +unfrequently found in gravel of the former description; and the +collection of these remains from distant quarters of the globe, is an +object of the greatest interest to geology. + +9. Besides a note of the locality, there ought, if possible, to accompany +every specimen, a short notice of its geological circumstances; as: + +Whether it be found in large shapeless masses, or in strata? + +If in strata, what are the thickness, inclination to the horizon, and +direction with respect to the compass, of the beds? [If these cannot be +measured, an estimate should always be recorded, while the objects are in +view.] Are they uniform in dip and direction? curved, or contorted? +continuous, or interrupted by fissures or veins? + +Is the whole cliff, or mass of strata in sight, of uniform composition? +or does it consist of different kinds of stone? + +If the strata be different, what is the order in which they are placed +above each other successively? + +10. A label, distinctly written, should accompany every specimen, stating +its native place, its relative situation, etc., etc. And these labels +should be connected with the specimens immediately, on the spot where +they are found. This injunction may appear to be superfluous; but so much +valuable information has been lost to geology from the neglect of it, +that every observer of experience will acknowledge its necessity; and it +is, perhaps, in practice one of the most difficult to adhere to. + +11. A sketch of a coast or cliff, however slight, frequently conveys more +information respecting the disposition and relations of rocks, than the +longest memorandum. If numbers, denoting the situation of the specimens +collected, be marked upon such sketches, much time may be saved at the +moment of collecting. But in all such cases, the memorandum should be +looked over soon afterwards, and labels distinctly explaining their +situation, etc., be attached to the specimens themselves. + +12. The specimens should be so packed, that the surfaces may be defended +from exposure to air, moisture, and friction: for which purpose, if +strong paper cannot be obtained, dry moss, or straw, or leaves, may be +used with advantage. Where paper is used for wrapping the specimens, they +are best secured by fastening the envelope with sealing-wax. + +Lastly, The collector must not be discouraged, nor be prevented from +collecting, by finding that the place which he may chance to visit in a +remote situation, has not a striking appearance, or the rocks within his +view a very interesting character; since it frequently, and even +commonly, happens, that facts and specimens, in themselves of very little +importance, become valuable by subsequent comparison; so that scarcely +any observation, if recorded with accuracy, will be thrown away. + +... + +The Instruments required by the geological traveller will vary, according +to the acquirements and specific objects of the individual. The most +essential are: + +The Hammer (Sketch 5); which, for general purposes, may be of the form +here represented: + +The head should be of steel well tempered, about 4 inches from the face +to the edge, and 1 1/4 inch square in the middle; the face flat, and +square, or nearly so; the edge placed in the direction of the handle. The +orifice for the insertion of the handle oval, a very little wider on the +outer side than within; its diameters, about 1 inch vertically, and 0.7 +across; the centre somewhat more than 1 1/2 inch from the face. The +handle should be of ash, or other tough wood; not less than 16 inches +long; fitting tight into the head at its insertion, without a shoulder; +and increasing a little in size towards the end remote from the head, to +prevent its slipping. It should be fixed in the head by means of a thin, +barbed iron wedge. + +For trimming specimens, smaller hammers may be employed (Sketch 6): The +form of the head, recommended for this purpose by Dr. MacCulloch,* is +rectangular. The dimensions of the face may be 1 inch by 3/4; the height +2 1/4. + +(*Footnote. On the forms of Mineralogical Hammers, Quarterly Journal +Royal Institution volume 11 1821 page 1 etc.) + +It will be expedient to have always some hammers, of different sizes, in +reserve. + +A small miner's pick is useful for cutting out, and splitting portions of +slaty rocks; or for obtaining specimens of clays, etc. + +A small stone-cutter's chisel. A chisel with a handle, of the form here +represented, will often save the hand of an inexpert collector, and +better enable him to direct his blow. + +For packing the specimens. A stock of strong paper. Sealing-wax. +Writing-paper, cut into labels. Thick gum-water, to cement the labels to +the specimens. + +For the Conveyance of specimens. A large bag of leather, with straps for +the shoulders. Strong canvas bags, of smaller size, are very convenient +for subdivision and arrangement. For the protection of crystals, or +delicate petrifactions, etc., wool or cotton are necessary; and small +wooden boxes (like those used for holding wafers) are sometimes required. +For distant carriage, strong wooden boxes, casks, or baskets. + +The following are either essential, or useful in various degrees, for +obtaining and recording observations. + +Pocket Memorandum-Books, of sufficient size to admit sketches. +A Pocket Compass. +A Measuring-Tape, of fifty feet, or more. +A Telescope. +A Camera Lucida. +A Box of Colours. + +The best maps should always be sought for: And, the true economy to the +traveller being that which saves time, it is best to mark, or even colour +the map, in the field. Notes inserted on imperfect maps, or deduced +afterwards from memoranda, are less authentic; and the process is +frequently neglected. + +PORTABLE-BAROMETERS, with detached thermometers, are desirable; and the +best instruments are ultimately the cheapest. But, unfortunately, +barometers of every construction are very easily damaged or deranged. The +accurate determination of heights, however, though very interesting to +physical geography, is comparatively of little importance to the +geologist. + +If the collector be a surveyor, he will know best to what purpose a +Pocket Sextant, or small Theodolite, is applicable: the measurement of +distances, of heights, and of the inclination of strata, etc. + +... + +CONTENTS OF APPENDIX C. + +GENERAL SKETCH OF THE COAST. + +GEOLOGICAL REMARKS. +1. List of Rocks. +2. Rocks identical with those of Europe. +3. Aspect of the Shores. +4. Information wanting respecting Diluvial deposits: no Specimens of +Limestone: no Volcanoes. +5. Recent calcareous breccia. +6. Range of the Coastlines. + +DETAILED LIST OF SPECIMENS. + +... + +INSTRUCTIONS FOR COLLECTING GEOLOGICAL SPECIMENS. + +... + + +APPENDIX D. + +COMPARATIVE TABLE OF THE LANGUAGES OF THE NATIVES, WITH SOME GENERAL +REMARKS. + +COLUMN 1: ENGLISH WORD. +COLUMN 2: CALEDON BAY, GULF OF CARPENTARIA. FROM CAPTAIN FLINDERS. +COLUMN 3: ENDEAVOUR RIVER, NORTH-EAST COAST. PARTLY FROM CAPTAIN COOK AND +MR. FORSTER. +COLUMN 4: KING GEORGE THE THIRD'S SOUND, SOUTH-WEST COAST. +COLUMN 5: PORT JACKSON. +COLUMN 6: BURRAH BURRAH TRIBE. FROM MR. SCOTT. +COLUMN 7: LIMESTONE CREEK. FROM MR. OXLEY. +COLUMN 8: PORT MACQUARIE. FROM MR. HUNTER. +COLUMN 9: MACQUARIE HARBOUR, VAN DIEMEN'S LAND. + +Eye : Ma-il : Me-ul : Me-al : Mi, or Me, Mego : Miki-laja : Milla : Me'-e +: Nam'-mur-uck. + +Nose : Ur-ro, or Hurro : Emer-da, or Poteer, Bon-joo (Cook) : Tarmul, +Moil (Flinders) : Nogro : - : Mor-ro : Na'-ag : Me-oun. + +Lips : Ta-a : Yem-be (Cook) : Tar : Willing : - : - : - : -. + +Teeth : Lir-ra : Mol-ear : Orlock : Era, or Da-ra : Yerrah : Er-ra : +Te'-lah : Kouk. + +Tongue : Mat-ta : Unjar : Darlin, or Thalil : Tal-lang : - : - : Mal'-way +: Mim. + +Cheeks : Tac-cal : - : Ny-a-luck : Yarrin : - : - : - : -. + +Chin : Na-ing : - : - : Wal-lo : - : - : - : -. + +Ears : Pon-doo-roo, or Po-door-roo : Mil-kah, Melea (Cook) : Duong : +Co-roo, Goray, or Benne : Binning-huiy : Wha-da :Mo'-ko : Goun-reek. + +Hair of the head : Marra : Morye : Ka-at : Kewarra, Dewarra, or Gewarroo +: Mundar : Bulla-ye-ga : Wo'l-lack : Pipe, or Bipipe. + +Neck : Mo-i-ang : Doom-boo, Forster : - : Ganga, Cadlear, or Cadleang : - +: Oro- : - : Treek, or Lan-gar-ree. + +Breast : Gum-mur : Coy-or (Forster) : - : Nabung : - : Be-ning : Nam-bang +: -. + +Belly : Goor-ro : Melmal (Forster) : Cop-bull, or Kopul : Barrong, or +Bende : Binda : Bur-bing : War'rah : -. + +Arm : Wan-na, or War-na : Aco, or Acol : Wor-nuck : Tarrang : - : Bar-gar +: Co-pah : Yir-ra-wig. + +Hand : Gong : - : - : Tam-mir-ra : Morrewalla : - : - : -. + +Fingers : Mingel : Mun-gal-bah : Mai (singular), Maih (plural) : +Ber-ril-le : Maranga : Nar-ra : Mah-tra : War-ra-nook. + +Elbow : Le-kal, or Le-kan : Ye-er-we : - : O-nur : - : - : - : +Nam-me-rick. + +Posteriors : Lam-me : Booca (Forster) : Wa'l-la-kah : Bo-ong, or Bayley : +- : - : - : -. + +Leg : Bacca : Peegoorga (Forster) : - : Dar-ra : - : - : Woo'lo-loo : -. + +Foot : Locko, or Nocka : Edamal (feet) : Ja-an, or Bangul : Manoe : Janna +: Dhee-nany : - : -. + +Toe : Mangel-locko : Eb-e-rah : Kea (singular) Kean (plural) : - : - : - +: Teel-nah : Pe-une. + +Sun : Laran-gai, or Car-ran-ghie : Gallan (Forster) : Djaat : Goona, +Coing, or Con-do-in : Bun-nail, or Mo-mat : - : Too-nigh, or Win-gin : -. + +Water : Lucka, or Lucko : Poorai (Forster) : - : Ba-doo : Ajung- : - : +Bah-do : -. + +Stone : Punda : Wal-bah : - : Keba : Wy-juck : - : - : -. + +Kangaroo : Loi-tyo : Men-u-ah, Kan-goo-roo (Cook) : Beango : Tungo, +Patagorang, Bag-gar-ray, Wal-li-bah, Wal-lar-roo, Bou-rou, Barro-melon, +Betong, Wy-rung, Pademalion : - : - : Womboy, Pool-cot (tame), Mah-koke +(the Pademalion of Port Jackson) : Raguar. + +Throwing-stick : Kail lepo : Melpairo, or Melpier (Forster) : Me-a-ra : +Wo-me-rah : - : - : - : -. + +Nipples (of a man) : - : Coy-o-ber-rah, Cayo (Cook) : Be-ep : Mou-tral : +- : - : - : Nerrinook. + +Dog : - : Cotta, or Kota : Tiara : Teingo, Dingo, Worregal : Med-di-gen, +War-ri-gal : - : - : -. + +Nails : - : Kolke : Pera : Currungal, or Car-rung-un : - : - : - : -. + +Beard : - : Wol-lar : Nyanuck : Chinis, or Wallo : - : Anany : - : +Ru-ing. + +Mouth : - : - : Tatah : Karga : - : Chuang : Wel'-leck : -. + +Fire : - : - : - : Gwee-yong, or Too-yong : Canby : Warrenur : Cor-yal : +Lope. + +Membrum virile : - : - : Yaw-de-wit : - : - : - : Cool-kah : Lune. + +Head : - : Wageegee (Forster) : - : Cob-bra : Ulangar, or Nattang : +Cah-brah : - : -. + +The preceding brief collection, of words used by the natives in various +parts of the Coasts of Australia and Van Diemen's Land, has been inserted +to show the great dissimilarity that exists in the languages of the +several tribes: and it may be remarked, that of thirty-three objects, one +only, the Eye, is expressed by nearly the same term at each place. In +this list, it is true, there is a striking resemblance between the terms +used to signify the hair at Port Jackson, namely, dewarra, or kewarra, or +gewarroo, and those which denote the same thing in the language of some +of the islands of the Eastern Seas; such, for instance, as arouroo or +hooroo-hooroo of the Society Islands; lo-ooroo of the Friendly Islands; +hooroo of New Zealand; and, perhaps, oouho of the Marquesas:* but at New +Caledonia, which is situated between these places and Port Jackson, the +same thing is expressed by poon, a sound totally distinct. And to render +the anomaly still more decisive, it is only necessary to remark, that, +within two hundred miles of Port Jackson, the natives of three tribes, +Port Macquarie. Burrah-Burrah, and Limestone Creek, signify the hair, by +the words wollack, mundar, and bulla-ye-ga. + +(*Footnote. Forster Observations page 283.) + +The aboriginal connexion of Australia with other lands must be proved, as +far as language is concerned, by a general resemblance of the words, and +not merely by a few examples of coincidence, which can only be considered +as accidental: and as our knowledge of the Australian languages, except +in the vicinity of Port Jackson, does not yet exceed thirty or forty +words, no comparison, derived from such limited information, can be +employed with any certainty to determine the question. The connexion must +be sought for, probably, where the continent, at its north-eastern +extremity, most nearly approaches other lands; but even then the chain +will remain imperfect until New Guinea and its neighbouring islands are +explored, and correct and extensive vocabularies of their languages +obtained. Forster,* who has paid considerable attention to this subject, +and whose opinions are the more valuable from their being the result of +personal observation, seems to be convinced that the New Hollanders are +not an original race, but have derived their origin from New Guinea. It +is therefore to be hoped, that this subject will not be forgotten by our +trans-Atlantic and Australian colonists; more particularly by those of +the new settlement on the north coast at Melville Island, who, from their +vicinity to New Guinea, have the best opportunities of throwing light +upon the question. + +(*Footnote. Ibid.) + +... + +SITUATIONS OF THE PLACES MENTIONED IN THE PRECEDING LIST WITH RESPECT TO +PORT JACKSON. + +King George the Third's Sound is on the South-west Coast, 1660 miles from +Port Jackson. + +Caledon Bay is near the north-west extremity of the Gulf of Carpentaria, +1500 miles from Port Jackson. + +Endeavour River, in latitude about 15 degrees South, is on the North-east +Coast, about 1180 miles from Port Jackson. + +Burrah-Burrah, about 90 miles in the interior, west of Port Jackson. + +Limestone Creek, about 140 miles in the interior, west of Port Jackson. + +Port Macquarie, on the East Coast, 168 miles north of Port Jackson. + +Macquarie Harbour, on the West Coast of Van Diemen's Land. + +Bruny Island, at the south-east extremity of Van Diemen's Land. + + + +END OF VOLUME 2. + + + + + +End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Narrative of a Survey of the +Intertropical and Western Coasts of Australia] [Volume 2 of 2], by Phillip Parker King + +*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK SURVEY OF THE COASTS OF AUSTRALIA, V2 *** + +***** This file should be named 12046.txt or 12046.zip ***** +This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: + https://www.gutenberg.org/1/2/0/4/12046/ + +Produced by Sue Asscher + +Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions +will be renamed. + +Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no +one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation +(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without +permission and without paying copyright royalties. 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