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+*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 11725 ***
+
+A RAMBLE OF SIX THOUSAND MILES THROUGH THE UNITED STATES OF AMERICA
+
+BY S. A. FERRALL, ESQ.
+
+LONDON, 1832
+
+
+
+
+
+
+[Illustration: _Fac-simile of the first two Paragraphs of the Leading
+Article in the "CHEROKEE PHOENIX" of July 31, 1830_]
+
+
+
+PREFACE.
+
+
+The few sketches contained in this small volume were not originally
+intended for publication--they were written solely for the amusement of my
+immediate acquaintances, and were forwarded to Europe in the shape of
+letters. Subsequent considerations have induced me to publish them; and if
+they be found to contain remarks on some subjects, which other travellers
+in America have passed over unnoticed, the end that I have in view will be
+fully answered.
+
+Although I remained in the seaboard cities sufficiently long to have
+collected much information; yet knowing that the statistics of those
+places had been so often and so ably set before the public, I felt no
+inclination to trouble my friends with their repetition.
+
+In Europe, the name of America is so associated with the idea of
+emigration, that to announce an intention of crossing the Atlantic, rouses
+the interfering propensity of friends and acquaintances, and produces such
+a torrent of queries and remonstrances, as will require a considerable
+share of moral courage to listen to and resist. All are on the tiptoe of
+expectation, to hear what the inducements can possibly be for travelling
+in America. America!! every one exclaims--what can you possibly see there?
+A country like America--little better than a mere forest--the inhabitants
+notoriously far behind Europeans in refinement--filled with wild Indians,
+rattle-snakes, bears, and backwoodsmen; ferocious hogs and ugly negros;
+and every other species of noxious and terrific animal!
+
+Without, however, any definite scientific object, or indeed any motive
+much more important than a love of novelty, I determined on visiting
+America; within whose wide extent all the elements of society, civilized
+and uncivilized, were to be found--where the great city could be traced to
+the infant town--where villages dwindle into scattered farms--and these to
+the log-house of the solitary backwoodsman, and the temporary wig-wam of
+the wandering Pawnee.
+
+I have refrained nearly altogether from touching on the domestic habits
+and manners of the Americans, because they have been treated of by
+Captain Hall and others; and as the Americans always allowed me to act as
+I thought proper, and even to laugh at such of their habits as I thought
+singular, I am by no means inclined to take exception to them.
+
+
+
+
+CONTENTS.
+
+
+CHAPTER I.
+
+Sail for New York in an American vessel--the crew--ostentation of the
+Captain--a heavy gale--soundings--icebergs--bay of New York--Negros and
+Negresses--White Ladies--climate--fires--vagrant pigs--Frances
+Wright--Match between an Indian canoe and a skiff
+
+
+CHAPTER II.
+
+Depart for Albany--the Hudson--Albany--Cohoe's Falls--Rome--the Little
+Falls--forest of charred trees--"stilly night" in a swamp--fire
+fly--Rochester--Falls of Gennessee--Sam. Patch--an eccentric
+character--Falls of Niagara--the Tuscarora Indians--Buffalo--Lake
+Erie--the Iroquois--the Wyandots--death of Seneca John, and its
+consequences--ague fever--Wyandot prairie--the Delawares' mode of dealing
+with the Indians--the transporting of Negros to Canada
+
+
+CHAPTER III.
+
+Arrive at Marion--divorces--woodlands--Columbus--land offices--population,
+&c. Shaking Quakers--kidnapping free Negros--Cincinnati--the farmers of
+Ohio--a corn-husking frolic--qualifications necessary to Senators,
+Legislators, and Electors--a camp-meeting--militia officers'
+muster--Presbyterian parsons--price of land, cattle, &c.--fever and ague
+
+
+CHAPTER IV.
+
+Set out for New Harmony--the roads--a backwoodsman--the
+journey--peaches--casualties--travelling--New Harmony--M. Le
+Seur--barter--excursion down the Wabash--the co-operative
+community--Robert Owen
+
+
+CHAPTER V.
+
+Depart for St. Louis--Albion--the late Messrs. Birkbeck and
+Flowers--Hardgrove's prairie--the roads--the Grand prairie--prairie
+wolf--mode of training dogs--Elliott's inn--inhabitants of
+Illinois--ablutions--coal--soil and produce--the American Bottom--St
+Louis--monopolies--Fur companies--incivility of a certain Major--trapping
+expedition--trade with Santa Fé--lead mines--Carondalot--Jefferson
+barracks--discipline--visit to a slave-holder--the Ioway hostages--Indian
+investigation--character of the Indians.
+
+
+CHAPTER VI
+
+Leave St. Louis--Indian mounds--remains of ancient fortifications--burial
+caverns--mummies--Flint's description of a mummy--the languages of
+America--town making--the Indian summer--population, &c. of Illinois--the
+prairie hen--the Turkey buzzard--settlers--forest in autumn--a gouging
+scrape--the country--extent and population of Indiana--hogs--a settler in
+bottom land--the sugar maple--roads--a baptism
+
+
+CHAPTER VII
+
+Set out for New Orleans--Louisville--Mississippi steam-boats--the
+Ohio--the Mississippi--sugar plantations--the valley of the
+Mississippi--New Orleans--Quadroons--slavery--a Methodist slavite--runaway
+Negros--incendiary fires at Orleans--liberty of the press--laws passed by
+the legislature of Louisiana--Miss Wright--public schools--yellow
+fever--the Texas
+
+
+CHAPTER VIII.
+
+Depart for Louisville--tellandsea, or Spanish moss--Natchez--the yellow
+fever--cotton plantations--Mississippi wood-cutters--freshets--planters,
+sawyers, and snags--steam-boat blown up--the Chickesaws--hunting in
+Tennessee--electioneering--vote by ballot--trade on the Ohio and
+Mississippi rivers--the People--the President's veto--finances--government
+banks--Kentucky--the Kentuckians--court-houses--an election--universal
+suffrage--an Albino--Diluvian reliqua
+
+
+CHAPTER IX.
+
+The political condition of the Indians--Missionaries--the letter of
+Red-jacket--the speech of the wandering Pawnee chief
+
+
+CHAPTER X.
+
+Kenhawa salt-works--coal--a
+Radical--rattle-snakes--Baltimore--Philadelphia--taxation--shipping
+
+
+CHAPTER XI.
+
+"The Workies"--Miss Wright--the opening of the West India ports to
+American vessels--voyage homeward--the stormy petrel--Gulf weed--the
+remora--the molusca--quarantine
+
+
+APPENDIX
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER I.
+
+
+Following the plan I had laid down for myself, I sought and found a goodly
+Yankee merchantman, bound for and belonging to the city of New York. Our
+vessel was manned with a real _American_ crew, that is, a crew, of which
+scarcely two men are of the same nation--which conveys a tolerably correct
+notion of the population of the United States. The crew consisted of one
+Russian, one German, one Italian, one Scotchman, one Newfoundlander, one
+Irishman, two Englishmen, two New Englanders, and two Negros--the cook and
+steward. The seamen of America are better paid, and better protected,
+than those of any other nation; but work harder, and must understand their
+duty well. Indeed if we had not had a good crew, our ship, being old,
+might have suffered severely.
+
+In selecting this ship, in addition to accommodations, I only took into
+account her build; and so far was not disappointed, for when she _could_
+carry sail, she scudded along in gallant style; but with ships as with
+horses, the more they _have done_, the less they have _to do_.
+
+I had a strong impression on my mind that a person travelling in America
+as a professed tourist, would be unable to form a correct estimate of the
+real character and condition of the people; for, from their great
+nationality, they would be likely to show him the best side of every
+thing. Of this kind of ostentation I very soon had a slight proof. Our
+ship left port in gallant trim, but had no sooner gained the open sea,
+than all hands were employed in stowing away the finery, and covering the
+rigging with mats--even the very cabin doors were taken off the hinges,
+and brass knobs and other ornaments which appeared to have been fixtures,
+were unshipped and deposited below, where they remained until our approach
+to New York, when the finery was again displayed, and all was placed once
+more _in statu quo_.
+
+For the first twelve days we had rather pleasant weather, and nothing
+remarkable occurred, unless a swallow coming on board completely exhausted
+with flying, fatigue made it so tame that it suffered itself to be
+caressed; it however popped into the coop, and the ducks literally gobbled
+it up alive. The ducks were, same day, suffered to roam about the decks,
+and the pigs fell foul of one of them, and eat the breast off it. Passing
+the cabouse, I heard the negro steward soliloquising, and on looking in,
+perceived him cutting a hen's throat with the most heartfelt satisfaction,
+as he grinned and exclaimed, by way of answer to its screams, "Poor
+feller! I guess I wouldn't hurt you for de world;" I could not help
+thinking with Leibnitz, that most sapient of philosophers, that this is
+the best of all possible worlds.
+
+On the thirteenth day we encountered a heavy gale, which continued to
+increase for four successive days. During this period we were unable to
+carry more canvass than was barely necessary to render the vessel
+manageable. A heavy gale, for the first time, is rather interesting than
+otherwise: the novelty of the sea's appearance--the anxiety of the crew
+and officers--the promptitude with which commands are given and
+executed--and the excitement produced by the other incidental occurrences,
+tend to make even a storm, when encountered in open sea, by no means
+destitute of pleasing interest. During this gale, the sailors appeared to
+be more than ordinarily anxious only upon one occasion, and then only for
+a minute--the circumstance was not calculated to create alarm in the mind
+of a person totally ignorant of nautical affairs, but being somewhat of a
+sailor, I understood the danger tolerably well. The helm was struck by a
+sea, and strained at the bolts; from the concussion occasioned by the
+blow, it was apprehended for a moment that it had been carried away.
+Without a helm, in such weather, much was to be feared; for her timbers
+being old, she could hardly meet the shock of an ocean wave upon her
+broadside without suffering serious injury. The helmsman was knocked
+down--the captain and mate jumped aft, to ascertain the extent of the
+damage; while the sailors scowled along the deck, as they laid their
+shoulders to the weather side of the ship--all was anxiety for the
+instant. At length the mate cried, "helm all right," and the crew pulled
+away as usual. At the close of the fourth day the storm subsided, and we
+approached the banks of Newfoundland.
+
+It is generally supposed that the colour of the sea is a sure indication
+of the presence or absence of soundings; that is, that there are
+soundings where the water is green, and that there are none where the
+water is blue. The former is, I believe, true in every instance; but the
+latter is certainly not so, as the first soundings we got here, were in
+water as blue as indigo, depth fifty odd fathoms.
+
+We were thirty days crossing these tiresome banks; during which time we
+were befogged, and becalmed, and annoyed with all sorts of disagreeable
+weather. The fogs or mists were frequently so dense, that it was
+impossible to see more than thirty yards from the vessel. This course is
+not that usually taken by ships bound for the United States, as they
+generally cross the Atlantic at much lower latitudes, but our captain
+"calculated" on escaping calms, and avoiding the influence of the Gulf
+stream, and thus making a quicker passage; he was, however, mistaken, as a
+packet ship that left Liverpool four days after, arrived at New York
+sixteen days before us.
+
+We found the thermometer of incalculable service, both for ascertaining
+when we got into the stream, and for disclosing our dangerous proximity to
+icebergs. That we had approached near icebergs we discovered one evening
+to be the case by the mercury falling, suddenly, below 40°, in foggy
+weather. We notwithstanding held on our course, and fortunately escaped
+accident. Many vessels which depart from port with gallant crews, and are
+never heard of more, are lost, I am convinced, by fatal collision with
+these floating islands. From the beginning of spring to the latter end of
+summer, masses of brash ice are occasionally encountered in these
+latitudes.
+
+Towards the evening of the fiftieth day we entered the bay of New York:
+the bay is really beautiful, and at this season (summer) perhaps appeared
+to the greatest advantage. The numerous islands with which it is
+interspersed, were covered to the water's edge with foliage and verdure,
+and here and there studded with handsome villas. The city appeared to be
+literally surrounded by a thick grove of masts, from which floated the
+flags of many nations--the scene, thus gradually unfolding itself to the
+eyes of one who had been for so long a time immured within a vessel, was
+really fascinating.
+
+While at New York, I staid at the "Pearl-street Boarding-house," and
+experienced from Messrs. Haskell and Perry, the proprietors, the most
+polite attention. Most Europeans are astonished at the rapidity with which
+the Americans despatch their meals; but I, having admitted the
+proposition, that there was "nothing new under the sun," had long
+previously ceased to be _astonished_ at any thing. On the first day of my
+dining at the table d'hôte, one of those gentlemen told me, when we sat
+down to dinner, that most of the persons at table were men of business,
+who were in the habit of eating much quicker than he knew I was accustomed
+to, and requested that that might not in the slightest interfere with my
+habits, but that I should entirely suit my own comfort and convenience.
+After that preface, I think I should have been most unreasonable to fall
+into a passion with the New Yorkers, because they _bolted_ instead of
+masticating.
+
+New York is altogether a trading place, and different from any thing of
+the same magnitude in Europe: scarcely a single street is exclusively
+filled with private residences;--in a mercantile point of view, it is the
+Liverpool of the United States.
+
+The negros and mulattos constitute a considerable portion of the
+population. It is impossible to imagine the extreme ugliness of some of
+the sooty gentry; a decent ourang-outang might, without presumption, vie
+with many of these people, even of the _fair sex_, and an impartial judge
+should certainly decide that the said ourang-outang was the handsomer
+animal. Many of them are wealthy, and dress remarkably well. The females,
+when their shins and misshapen feet are concealed by long gowns, appear
+to have good figures. A few days after my arrival, walking down "Broadway"
+(the principal street) I was struck with the figure of a fashionably
+dressed woman, who was sauntering before me. After passing, I turned
+round, when--O angels and ministers of ugliness!--I beheld a face, as
+black as soot--a mouth that reached from ear to ear--a nose, like nothing
+human--and lips a full inch in diameter! On the following morning, whilst
+dressing at my bed-room window, I heard a squeaking sort of voice warbling
+forth, "Love was once a little Boy," and "I'd be a Butterfly." The strange
+_melody_ and unusual intonations induced me to look out, when, to my
+astonishment, I found that the _fair_ songstress was a most
+hideous-looking negress! Such are the scenes that constantly present
+themselves here, and remind a European that he is in a new region.
+
+The white ladies dress fashionably, generally _à la Françoise_; have
+straight figures, and with the help of a little cotton, judiciously
+disposed, and sometimes, the smallest possible portion of rouge, contrive
+to look rather interesting; in general, they are lamentably deficient in
+_tournure_ and _en-bon-point_. The hands and feet of the greatest belle,
+are _pas mignon_, and would be termed plebeian by the Anglo-Normans--the
+aristocracy of England. Yet I have seen many girls extremely handsome
+indeed, having a delicate bloom and fair skin; but this does not endure
+long, as the variable nature of the climate--the sudden and violent
+transitions of temperature which occur on this continent, destroy, in a
+few years, the complexion of the finest woman. When she arrives at the age
+of thirty, her skin is shrivelled and discoloured; she is thin, and has
+all the indications of premature old age. The women of England retain
+their beauty at least ten years longer than those of America.
+
+The inhabitants of that part of New York nearest the shipping, are
+extremely sallow and unhealthy looking, and many have a most cadaverous
+aspect. Malaria certainly exists here in some degree. A man will tell you
+that the city is perfectly healthy, whilst his own appearance most
+unquestionably indicates disease. I speak now of the quays and adjacent
+streets; and the cause is very apparent. The wharfs are faced with wood,
+and the retiring of the tide exposes a rotten vegetable substance to the
+action of an almost tropical sun, which, added to the filth that is
+invariably found in the neighbourhood of shipping, is quite sufficient to
+produce the degree of unhealthiness that exists. On going up the town, the
+appearance of the inhabitants gradually improves, and approaching the
+suburbs, the difference is striking,--in this district I have seen persons
+as stout and healthy looking as any in England or Ireland.
+
+On the night of my arrival, a fire broke out, by which several extensive
+warehouses were entirely consumed. There is nothing more remarkable here
+than the frequent occurrence of this calamity, except the excellent
+arrangements that are made for arresting its progress. The engines,
+apparatus, and _corps de pompiers_, are admirably maintained, and the
+promptitude and regularity with which they arrive at the scene of
+devastation truly astonishing: indeed, were this not the case, the city
+must very soon be destroyed; for notwithstanding all their exertions,
+every conflagration makes it minus several houses, and few nights pass
+without bringing a misfortune of this nature.
+
+There are several theatres, churches, and other public buildings,
+dispersed throughout the city. The City Hall, which stands near the upper
+end of a small enclosure, called the Park, is considered the handsomest
+building in the United States. It was finished in 1812, and cost half a
+million dollars.
+
+The police regulations appear not to be so severe as they ought to be, for
+droves of hogs are permitted to roam about the streets, to the terror of
+fine ladies, and the great annoyance of all pedestrians.
+
+New York was settled by the Dutch in 1615, and called by them New
+Amsterdam. In 1634, it was conquered by the English,--retaken by the Dutch
+in 1673, and restored in 1674. Its present population is estimated at
+213,000.
+
+Having heard that the celebrated Frances Wright, authoress of "A Few Days
+in Athens," was publicly preaching and promulgating her doctrines in the
+city, I determined on paying the "Hall of Science" a visit, in which
+establishment she usually lectured. The address she delivered on the
+evening I attended had been previously delivered on the fourth of July, in
+the city of Philadelphia; but, at the request of a numerous party of
+"Epicureans," she was induced to repeat it. The hall might contain perhaps
+ten or twelve hundred persons, and on this occasion it was filled to
+excess, by a well-dressed audience of both sexes.
+
+The person of Frances Wright is tall and commanding--her features are
+rather masculine, and the melancholy cast which her countenance ordinarily
+assumes gives it rather a harsh appearance--her dark chestnut hair hangs
+in long graceful curls about her neck; and when delivering her lectures,
+her appearance is romantic and unique.
+
+She is a speaker of great eloquence and ability, both as to the matter of
+her orations, and the manner of their delivery. The first sentence she
+utters rivets your attention; and, almost unconsciously, your sympathies
+are excited, and you are carried onward by the reasonings and the
+eloquence of this disciple of the Gardens. The impression made on the
+audience assembled on that occasion was really wonderful. Once or twice,
+when I could withdraw my attention from the speaker, I regarded the
+countenances of those around me, and certainly never witnessed any thing
+more striking. The high-wrought interest depicted in their faces, added to
+the breathless silence that reigned throughout the building, made the
+spectacle the most imposing I ever beheld. She was the Cumaean Sibyl
+delivering oracles and labouring under the inspiration of the God of
+Day.--This address was chiefly of a political character, and she took care
+to flatter the prejudices of the Americans, by occasionally recurring to
+the advantages their country possessed over European states--namely, the
+absence of country gentlemen, and of a church establishment; for to the
+absence of these the Americans attribute a large portion of the very great
+degree of comfort they enjoy.
+
+Near Hoboken, about three miles up North river, at the opposite side to
+New York, a match took place between a boat rowed by two watermen, and a
+canoe paddled by two Indians. The boat was long and narrow, similar in
+form to those that ply on the Thames. The canoe was of the lightest
+possible construction, being composed of thin hickory ribs covered with
+bark. In calm weather, the Indians propel these vessels through the water
+with astonishing velocity; but when the wind is high, and the water much
+disturbed, their progress is greatly impeded. It so happened on this day
+that the water was rough, and consequently unfavourable to the Aborigines.
+At the appointed signal the competitors started. For a short distance the
+Indians kept up with their rivals, but the long heavy pull of the oar soon
+enabled the boatmen to leave them at a distance. The Indians, true to
+their character, seeing the contest hopeless, after the first turn, no
+longer contended for victory; they paddled deliberately back to the
+starting place, stepped out, and carried their canoe on shore. The
+superiority of the oar over the paddle was in this contest fully
+demonstrated.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER II.
+
+
+Having determined on quitting "the London of the States," as my friends
+the Yankees call New York, I had bag and baggage conveyed on board a
+steamer bound for Albany. The arrangements and accommodations on board
+this boat were superb, and surpassed any thing of the kind I ever met with
+in Europe, on the same scale; and the groups of well-dressed passengers
+fully indicated the general prosperity of the country.
+
+The distance between New York and Albany is about 165 miles. The scenery
+on the Hudson is said to be the most beautiful of any in America, and I
+believe cannot be surpassed in any country. Many of the beauties of rich
+European scenery are to be found along the banks of that noble river. In
+the highlands, about fifty miles from New York, is West Point, on which
+stands a strong fortress, containing an arsenal, a military-school, and a
+garrison. It is romantically situated among lofty crags and mountains,
+which rise above the level of the water from 1100 to 1500 feet. There are
+many handsome country seats and villages between West Point and Hudson,
+where the river is more than a mile wide.
+
+After a passage of about sixteen or seventeen hours, we arrived at Albany.
+The charge for passage, including dinner and tea, was only three dollars;
+and the day following the cost was reduced, through the spirit of
+opposition, to one dollar.
+
+Albany is the legislative capital of New York. It is a handsome city, and
+one of the oldest in the Union. Most of the houses are built of wood,
+which, when tastefully painted (not often the case) have rather a pleasing
+appearance. The situation of this city is advantageous, both from the
+direct communication which it enjoys with the Atlantic, by means of sloops
+and schooners, and the large tract of back country which it commands. A
+trade with Canada is established by means of the Erie and Hudson canal.
+The capitol, and other public buildings, are large and handsome, and being
+constructed of either brick or stone, give the city a respectable
+appearance.
+
+Albany, in 1614, was first settled by the Dutch, and was by them called
+Orange. On its passing into the hands of the English, in 1664, its present
+name was given to it, in honour of the Duke of York. It was chartered in
+1686.
+
+From Albany I proceeded along the canal, by West Troy and Junction, and
+near the latter place we came to Cohoe's Falls, on the Mohawk. The river
+here is about 250 yards wide, which rushing over a jagged and uneven bed
+of rocks, produces a very picturesque effect. The canal runs nearly
+parallel with this river from Junction to Utica, crossing it twice, at an
+interval of seven miles, over aqueducts nearly fifty rods in length,
+constructed of solid beams of timber. The country is very beautiful, and
+for the most part well cultivated. The soil possesses every variety of
+good and bad. The farms along the canal are valuable, land being generally
+worth from fifty to a hundred dollars per acre.
+
+Above Schenectady, a very ancient town, the bed of the canal gave way,
+which of course obliged us to come to a dead halt. I hired, for myself and
+two others, a family waggon (dignified here with the appellation of
+_carriage_) to take us beyond the break, in expectation of being able to
+get a boat thence onwards, but unfortunately all the upward-bound boats
+had proceeded. We were, therefore, obliged to wait until next morning. My
+fellow travellers having light luggage, got themselves and it into a hut
+at the other side of the lock; but I, having heavy baggage, which it was
+impossible to carry across, was compelled to remain on the banks, between
+the canal and the Mohawk, all night. On the river there were several
+canoes, with fishermen spearing by torch-light; while on the banks the
+boatmen and boys, Mulattos and whites, were occupied in gambling. They had
+tables, candles, dice, and cards. With these, and with a _quantum
+sufficit_ of spirits, they contrived to while away the time until
+day-break; of course interlarding their conversation with a reasonable
+quantity of oaths and imprecations. The breach being repaired early in the
+morning, the boats came up, and we proceeded to Utica.
+
+Seven miles above Utica is seated Rome, a small and dirty town, bearing no
+possible resemblance to the "Eternal City," even in its more modern
+condition, as the residence of the "Triple Prince;" but, on the contrary,
+having, if one could judge from the habitations, every appearance of
+squalid poverty. Fifteen miles further on, we passed the Little Falls. It
+was night when we came to them, but it being moonlight, we had an
+opportunity of seeing them to advantage. The crags are here
+stupendous--irregular and massive piles of rocks, from which spring the
+lofty pine and cedar, are heaped in frightful disorder on each other, and
+give the scene a terrifically grand appearance.
+
+From Rome to Syracuse, a distance of forty-six miles, the canal is cut
+through a swampy forest, a great portion of which is composed of dead
+trees. One of the most dismal scenes imaginable is a forest of charred
+trees, which is occasionally to be met with in this country, especially in
+the route by which I was travelling. It is caused by the woods being
+fired, by accident or otherwise. The aspect of these blasted monuments of
+ruined vegetation is strange and peculiar; and the air of desertion and
+desolation which pervades their neighbourhood, reminds one of the stories
+that are told of the Upas valley of Java, for here too not a bird is to
+be seen. The smell arising from this swamp in the night, was so bad as to
+oblige us to shut all the windows and doors of the boat, which, added to
+the bellowing and croaking of the bull frogs--the harsh and incessant
+noise of the grasshoppers, and the melancholy cry of the whip-poor-will,
+formed a combination not of the most agreeable nature. Yet, in defiance of
+all this, we were induced occasionally to brave the terrors of the night,
+in order to admire that beautiful insect the fire-fly, or as it is called
+by the natives, "lightning bug." They emit a greenish phosphorescent
+light, and are seen at this season in every part of the country. The woods
+here were full of them, and seemed literally to be studded with small
+stars, which emitted a bright flickering light.
+
+After you pass Syracuse, the country begins to improve; but still it is
+low and marshy, and for the most part unhealthy, as the appearance of the
+people clearly indicates. In this country, as in every other, the canals
+are generally cut through comparatively low lands, and the low lands here,
+with few exceptions, are all swampy; however, a great deal of the
+unhealthiness which pervades this district, arises from want of attention.
+A large portion of the inhabitants are Low Dutch, who appear never to be
+in their proper element, unless when settled down in the midst of a swamp.
+They allow rotten timber to accumulate, and stagnant pools to remain about
+their houses, and from these there arises an effluvium which is most
+unpleasant in warm weather, which, however, they do not seem to perceive.
+
+We entered Rochester, through an aqueduct thirty rods in length, built of
+stone, across the Genessee river. Rochester is the handsomest town on this
+line. Some of the houses here are tastefully decorated. All the windows
+have Venetian blinds, and generally there are one or two covered balconies
+attached to the front of each house. Before the doors there are small
+_parterres_, planted with rose-trees, and other fragrant shrubs. About
+half a mile from the town are the Falls of Genessee. The water glides over
+an even bed of limestone rock, ninety-six feet above the level of the
+river below. There is a beautiful regularity in this fall, but its extreme
+uniformity divests it of picturesque effect. Here the celebrated diver,
+Sam. Patch, subsequently met his fate in diving off this precipice. He had
+performed similar feats at the Falls of Niagara, without sustaining any
+injury. He was not killed by the fall; but is supposed to have fainted
+when midway from, his leap, as his arms were observed to relax, and his
+legs to open, before he reached the water.
+
+On my journey I met with an Englishman, a Mr. W----. He dressed _à la Mungo
+Park_, wearing a jacket and trowsers of jean, and a straw hat. He was a
+great pedestrian; had travelled through most of the southern States, and
+was now on his tour through this part of the country. He was a gentleman
+about fifty,--silent and retiring in his habits. Enamoured of the
+orange-trees of Georgia, he intended returning there or to Carolina, and
+ending his days. We agreed to visit the Falls of Niagara together, and
+accordingly quitted the boat at Tonawanta. When we had dined, and had
+deposited our luggage in the safe keeping of the Niagara hotel-keeper, my
+companion shouldered his vigne stick, and to one end of which he appended
+a small bundle, containing a change of linen, &c., and I put on my
+shooting coat of many pockets, and shouldered my gun. Thus equipped, we
+commenced our journey to the Great Falls. The distance from Tonawanta to
+the village of the Falls, now called Manchester, is about eleven miles.
+The way lies through a forest, in which there are but a few scattered
+habitations. A great part of the road runs close to the river Niagara; and
+the occasional glimpses of this broad sheet of water, which are obtained
+through the rich foliage of the forest, added to the refreshing breeze
+that approached us through the openings, rendered our pedestrian excursion
+extremely delightful.
+
+Towards evening we arrived at the village, and proceeded to reconnoitre,
+in order to fix our position for the night. After having done this
+satisfactorily, we then turned our attention to the all-important
+operation of eating and drinking. While supping, an eccentric-looking
+person passed out through the apartment in which we were. His odd
+appearance excited our curiosity, and we inquired who this
+mysterious-looking gentleman was. We were informed that he was an
+Englishman, and that he had been lodging there for the last six months,
+but that he concealed his real name. He slept in one corner of a large
+barrack room, in which there were of course several other beds. On a small
+table by his bed-side there were a few French and Latin books, and some
+scraps of poetry touching on the tender passion. These, and a German
+flute, which we observed standing against the window, gave us some clue to
+his character. He was a tall, romantic-looking young man, apparently about
+twenty-seven or twenty-eight years of age. His dress was particularly
+shabby. This the landlord told us was from choice, not from necessity, as
+he had two trunks full of clothes nearly new. The reason he gave for
+dressing as he did, was his knowing, he said, that if he dressed well,
+people would be talking to him, which he wished to avoid; but, that by
+dressing as he did, he made sure that no one would ever think of giving
+him any annoyance of that kind. I thought this idea unique: and whether he
+be still at Niagara, or has taken up his abode at the foot of the Rocky
+mountains, I pronounce him to be a Diogenes without a tub. He has read at
+least one page in the natural history of civilized man.
+
+We visited the Falls, at the American side by moonlight. There was then an
+air of grandeur and sublimity in the scene which I shall long remember.
+Yet at this side they are not seen to the greatest advantage. Next morning
+I crossed the Niagara river, below the Falls, into Canada. I did not
+ascend the bank to take the usual route to the Niagara hotel, at which
+place there is a spiral staircase descending 120 feet towards the foot of
+the Falls, but clambered along at the base of the cliffs until I reached
+the point immediately below the stairs. I here rested, and indeed required
+it much, for the day was excessively warm, and I had unfortunately
+encumbered myself with my gun and shot pouch. The Falls are here seen in
+all their grandeur. Two immense volumes of water glide over perpendicular
+precipices upwards of 170 feet in height, and tumble among the crags below
+with a roaring that _we_ distinctly heard on our approach to the village,
+at the distance of five miles up the river: and down the river it can be
+heard at a much greater distance. The Falls are divided by Goat Island
+into two parts. The body of water which falls to the right of the island
+is much greater than that which falls to the left; and the cliffs to the
+right assume the form of a horse-shoe. To the left there is also a
+considerable indentation, caused by a late falling in of the rock; but it
+scarcely appears from the Canadian side. The rushing of the waters over
+such immense precipices--the dashing of the spray, which rises in a white
+cloud at the base of the Falls, and is felt at the distance of a quarter
+of a mile--the many and beautiful rainbows that occasionally
+appear,--united, form a grand and imposing _coup d'oeil_.
+
+The Fall is supposed to have been originally at the table-land near
+Lewiston; and indeed, from the nature of the ground, and its present
+condition below the Falls, no reasonable objection can be entertained to
+that supposition. The upper part of the cliffs is composed of hard
+limestone, and underneath is a bed of schistus. Now this schistus is
+continually worn away by the water's dashing against it. This leaves the
+upper part, or immediate bed of the river, without foundation. When,
+therefore, from extraordinary floods, the pressure of the incumbent fluid
+becomes more than usually great, the rock gives way; and thus, gradually,
+the Falls have receded several miles.
+
+I at length ascended the stairs, and popped my head into the shanty, _sans
+ceremonie_, to the no small amazement of the cunning compounder of
+"cock-tails," and "mint julaps" who presided at the bar. It was clear that
+I had ascended the stairs, but how the deuce I had got down was the
+question. I drank my "brandy sling," and retreated before he had recovered
+from his surprise, and thus I escaped the volley of interrogatories with
+which I should have been most unsparingly assailed. I walked for some
+distance along the Canadian heights, and then crossed the river, where I
+met my friend waiting my return under a clump of scrub oak.
+
+We had previously determined on visiting the Tuscarora village, an Indian
+settlement about eight miles down the river, and not far from Ontario.
+This is a tribe of one of the six nations, the last that was admitted into
+the Confederation. They live in a state of community; and in their
+arrangements for the production and distribution of wealth, approach
+nearer to the Utopean system than any community with which I am
+acquainted. The squaws told us that no Indian there could claim any thing
+but what was contained within his own cabin; that the produce of the land
+was common property, and that they never quarrelled about its division. We
+dined in one of their cabins, on lean mutton and corn bread. The interior
+of their habitations is not conspicuous for cleanliness; nor are they so
+far civilized as to be capable of breaking their word. The people at the
+Niagara village told us, that with the exception of two individuals in
+that community, any Indian could get from them on credit either money or
+goods to whatever amount he required.
+
+I here parted with my fellow traveller, perhaps for ever. He went to
+Lewiston, whence he intended to cross into Canada, and to walk along the
+shores of Ontario; whilst I made the best of my way back through the woods
+to Manchester. I certainly think our landlord had some misgivings
+respecting the fate of my companion. We had both departed together: I
+alone was armed--and I alone returned. However, as I unflinchingly stood
+examination and cross-examination, and sojourned until next morning, his
+fears seemed to be entirely dispelled. Next day I took a long, last look
+at Niagara, and departed for Tonawanta.
+
+At Tonawanta I again took the canal-boat to Buffalo, a considerable town
+on the shores of lake Erie, and at the head of the canal navigation. There
+are several good buildings in this town, and some well-appointed hotels.
+Lake schooners, and steam and canal boats are here in abundance, it being
+an entrepôt for western produce and eastern merchandize. A few straggling
+Indians are to be seen skulking about Buffalo, like dogs in Cairo, the
+victims of the inordinate use of ardent spirits.
+
+From Buffalo I proceeded in a steamer along lake Erie, to Portland in
+Ohio, now called Sandusky City; the distance 240 miles. After about an
+hour's sail, we entirely lost sight of the Canadian shores. The scenery on
+the American side is very fine, particularly from Presqu' Isle onward to
+the head of the lake, or rather from its magnitude, it might be termed an
+inland sea.
+
+On landing at Sandusky, I learned that there were several Indian reserves
+between that place and Columbus, the seat of government. This determined
+me on making a pedestrian tour to that city. Accordingly, having forwarded
+my luggage, and made other necessary arrangements, I commenced my
+pergrinations among the Aborigines.
+
+The woods in the upper part of Ohio, nearest the lake, are tolerably open,
+and occasionally interspersed with sumach and sassafras: the soil
+somewhat sandy. I met with but few Indians, until my arrival at Lower
+Sandusky, on the Sandusky river; here there were several groups returning
+to their reserves, from Canada, where they had been to receive the annual
+presents made them by the British government. In the next county (Seneca)
+there is a reservation of about three miles square, occupied by Senecas,
+Cayugas, and part of the Iroquois or six nations, once a most powerful
+confederation amongst the red men.[1] In Crawford county there is a very
+large reserve belonging to the Huron or Wyandot Indians. These, though
+speaking a dialect of the Iroquois tongue, are more in connexion with the
+Delawares than with the Iroquois. The Wyandots are much esteemed by their
+white neighbours, for probity and good behaviour. They dress very
+tastefully. A handsome chintz shawl tied in the Moorish fashion about the
+head--leggings of blue cloth, reaching half way up the thigh, sewn at the
+outside, leaving a hem of about an inch deep--mocassins, or Indian boots,
+made of deer-skin, to fit the foot close, like a glove--a shirt or tunic
+of white calico--and a hunting shirt, or frock, made of strong
+blue-figured cotton or woollen cloth, with a small fringed cape, and long
+sleeves,--a tomahawk and scalping knife stuck in a broad leather belt.
+Accoutred in this manner, and mounted on a small hardy horse, called here
+an Indian pony, imagine a tall, athletic, brown man, with black hair and
+eyes--the hair generally plaited in front, and sometimes hanging in long
+wavy curls behind--aquiline nose, and fearless aspect, and you have a fair
+idea of the Wyandot and Cayuga Indian. The Senecas and Oneidas whom I met
+with, were not so handsome in general, but as athletic, and about the same
+average height--five feet nine or ten.
+
+The Indians here, as every where else, are governed by their own laws, and
+never have recourse to the whites to settle their disputes. That silent
+unbending spirit, which has always characterized the Indian, has alone
+kept in check the rapacious disposition of the whites. Several attempts
+have been made to induce the Indians to sell their lands, and go beyond
+the Mississippi, but hitherto without effect. The Indian replies to the
+fine speeches and wily language of the whites, "We hold this small bit of
+land, in the vast country of our fathers, by _your_ written talk, and it
+is noted on _our_ wampums--the bones of our fathers lie here, and we
+cannot forsake them. You tell us our great father (the president) is
+powerful, and that his arm is long and strong--we believe it is so; but we
+are in hopes that he will not strike his red children for their lands, and
+that he will leave us this little piece to live upon--the hatchet is long
+buried, let it not be disturbed."
+
+Jackson has lately published a manifesto to all the Indian tribes within
+the limits of the United States, commanding them to sell their reserves;
+and with few exceptions, has been answered in this manner.
+
+A circumstance occurred a few days previous to my arrival, in the Seneca
+reserve, which may serve to illustrate the determined character of the
+Indian. There were three brothers (chiefs) dwelling in this reservation.
+"Seneca John," the eldest brother, was the principal chief of the tribe,
+and a man much esteemed by the white people. He died by poison. The
+chiefs in council, having satisfactorily ascertained that his second
+brother "Red-hand," and a squaw, had poisoned him, decreed that Red-hand
+should be put to death. "Black-snake," the other brother, told the chiefs
+that if Red-hand must die, he himself would kill him, in order to prevent
+feuds arising in the tribe. Accordingly in the evening he repaired to the
+hut of Red-hand, and after having sat in silence for some time, said, "My
+best chiefs say, you have killed my father's son,--they say my brother
+must die." Red-hand merely replied, "They say so;" and continued to smoke.
+After about fifteen minutes further silence, Black-snake said, pointing to
+the setting sun, "When he appears above those trees"--moving his arm round
+to the opposite direction--"I come to kill you." Red-hand nodded his head
+in the short significant style of the Indian, and said "Good." The next
+morning Black-snake came, followed by two chiefs, and having entered the
+hut, first put out the squaw, he then returned and stood before his
+brother, his eyes bent on the ground. Red-hand said calmly, "Has my
+brother come that I may die?"--"It is so," was the reply. "Then,"
+exclaimed Red-hand, grasping his brother's left hand with his own right,
+and dashing the shawl from his head, "Strike sure!" In an instant the
+tomahawk was from the girdle of Black-snake, and buried in the skull of
+the unfortunate man. He received several blows before he fell, uttering
+the exclamation "hugh," each time. The Indians placed him on the grass to
+die, where the backwoodsman who told me the story, saw him after the lapse
+of two hours, and life was not then extinct,--with such tenacity does it
+cling to the body of an Indian. The scalping knife was at length passed
+across his throat, and thus ended the scene.
+
+From Sandusky city, in Huron county, I passed into Sandusky county, and
+from thence through Seneca county. These three counties are entirely
+woodlands, with the exception of a few small prairies which lay eastward
+of my course. The land is generally fertile. Some light sandy soil is
+occasionally to be met with, which produces more quickly than the heavier
+soil, but not so abundantly. I saw in my travels through these counties a
+few persons who were ill of ague-fever, as it is here called. The
+prevalence of this disease is not to be attributed to a general
+unhealthiness of the climate, but can at all times be referred to
+localities.
+
+I next entered Crawford county, and crossed the Wyandot prairie, about
+seven miles in length, to Upper Sandusky. This was the first of those
+extensive meadows I had seen, and I was much pleased with its
+appearance--although this prairie is comparatively but small, yet its
+beauty cannot be surpassed; and the groves, and clusters of trees, _iles
+de bois_, with which it is interspersed, make it much resemble a beautiful
+domain.
+
+Attached to the Wyandot reserve (nine miles by sixteen) is that of the
+Delawares (three miles square). On reaching Little Sandusky--Kahama's
+curse on the town baptizers of America!--there are often five or six
+places named alike in one state: upper and lower, little and big, great
+and small--and invariably the same names that are given to towns in one
+State, are to be found in every other. Then their vile plagiarisms of
+European names causes a Babelonish confusion of ideas, enough to disturb
+the equanimity of a "grisly saint;" and, with all humility, I disclaim
+having any pretensions to that character. I have frequently heard a
+long-legged, sallow-looking backwoodsman talk of having come lately from
+Paris, or Mecca, when instead of meaning the capital of _La grande
+nation_, or the city of "the holy prophet," he spoke of some town
+containing a few hundred inhabitants, situated in the backwoods of
+Kentucky, or amidst the gloomy forests of Indiana. The Americans too speak
+in prospective, when they talk of great places; no doubt "calculating"
+that, one day, all the mighty productions of the old world will be
+surpassed by their ingenuity and perseverance.
+
+I reached Little Sandusky about one o'clock in the day, and there learned
+that there was a treaty being holden with the Delawares--accordingly I
+repaired to the council ground. On a mat, under the shade of seven large
+elm trees, which in more prosperous times had waved over the war-like
+ancestors of this unfortunate people, were seated three old sachems, the
+principal of the tribe. The oldest appeared to be nearly eighty years of
+age, the next about seventy, and the last about fifty. On a chair to the
+right of the Indians was seated a young "half-breed" chief, the son of one
+of the sachems by a white squaw; and on their left, seated on another
+chair, a Delaware dressed in the costume of the whites. This young man was
+in the pay of the States, and acted as interpreter--he interpreting into
+and from the Delaware language, and a gentleman of the mission (a Captain
+Walker) into and from the Wyandot. At a table opposite the Indians were
+seated the commissioners.
+
+The Lenni Lenapé, or Delawares, as they were called by the English, from
+the circumstance of their holding their great "Council-fire" on the banks
+of the Delaware river, were once the most powerful of the several tribes
+that spoke the Delaware tongue, and possessed an immense tract of country
+east of the Alleghany mountains. This unfortunate people had been driven
+from place to place, until at last they were obliged to accept of an
+asylum from the Wyandot, whom they call their uncle; and now are forced to
+sell this, and go beyond the Mississippi. To a reflecting mind, the scene
+was touching beyond description. Here was the sad remnant of a great
+nation, who having been forced back from the original country of their
+fathers, by successive acts of rapacity, are now compelled to enter into
+a compact which obliges them, half civilized as they are, to return to the
+forest. The case is this,--the white people, or rather Jackson and the
+southerns, say, that the Indians "retard improvement"--precisely in the
+same sense that a brigand, when he robs a traveller, might say, that the
+traveller retarded improvement--that is, retarded _his_ improvement,
+inasmuch as he had in his pocket, what would improve the condition of the
+brigand. The Indians have cultivated farms, and valuable tracts of land,
+and no doubt it will improve the condition of the whites, to get
+possession of those farms and rich lands, for _one tenth of their saleable
+value_. The profits that have accrued to the United States from the
+systematic plunder of the Indians, are immense, and a great portion of the
+national debt has been liquidated by this dishonest means.[2]
+
+The reserve of the Delawares contained nine square miles, or 5760 acres.
+For this it was agreed at the treaty, that they should be paid 6000
+dollars, and the value of the improvements, which I conceived to be a fair
+bargain. I was not then aware of the practice pursued by the government,
+of making deductions, under various pretences, from the purchase-money,
+until the unfortunate Indian is left scarcely anything in lieu of his
+lands, and says, that "the justice of the white man is not like the
+justice of the red man," and that he cannot understand the honesty of his
+Christian brother. The following extract, taken from the New York
+American, will give some insight into the mode of dealing with the
+Indians.
+
+"_The last of the Ottowas_.--Maumee Bay, Ohio, Sept. 3, 1831.--Mr. James
+B. Gardiner has concluded a very important treaty at Maumee Bay, in
+Michigan, for a cession of all the lands owned by the Ottowa Indians in
+Ohio, about 50,000 acres. It was attended with more labour and greater
+difficulties than any other treaty made in this state: it was the last
+foothold which that savage, warlike, and hostile tribe held in their
+ancient dominion. The conditions of this treaty are very similar to those
+treaties of Lewistown and Wapaghkenetta, _with this exception_, that the
+surplus avails of their lands, _after deducting seventy cents per acre to
+indemnify the government_, are to be appropriated for paying the debts of
+their nation, which amount to about 20,000 dollars." [Query, what are
+those debts?--could they be the amount of _presents_ made them on former
+occasions?] "The balance, _if any_, accrues to the tribe. Seventy
+thousand acres of land are granted to them west of the Mississippi.[3] The
+Ottowas are the most depredating, drunken, and ferocious in Ohio. The
+reservations ceded by them are very valuable, and those on the Miami of
+the lake embrace some of the best mill privileges in the State."
+
+The Delawares were too few (being but fifty-one in number) to contend the
+matter, and therefore accepted of the proposed terms. At the conclusion of
+the conference, the Commissioners told them that they should have a barrel
+of flour, with the beef that had been killed for the occasion, which was
+received with "Yo-ha!--Yo-ha!" They then said, laughing, "that they hoped
+their father would allow them a little milk," meaning whisky, which was
+accordingly granted. They drank of this modern Lethé and forgot for a time
+their misfortunes.
+
+On the Osage fork of the Merrimack river, there are two settlements of the
+Delawares, to the neighbourhood of which these Indians intend to remove.
+
+Near the Delaware reserve, I fell in with a young Indian, apparently about
+twenty years of age, and we journeyed together for several miles through
+the forest. He spoke English fluently, and conformed as far as his taste
+would permit him, to the habits of the whites. His dress consisted of a
+blue frock coat, blue cloth leggings, moccasins, a shawl tied about the
+head, and a red sash round his waste. In conversation, I asked him if he
+were not a Cayuga--: "No," says he, "an Oneida," placing both his hands on
+his breast--"a _clear_ Oneida." I could not help smiling at his national
+pride;--yet this is man: in every country and condition he is proud of his
+descent, and loves the race to which he belongs. This Oneida was a widow's
+son. He had sixteen acres of cleared land, which, with occasional
+assistance, he cultivated himself. When the produce was sold, he divided
+the proceeds with his mother, and then set out, and travelled until his
+funds were exhausted. He had just then returned from a tour to New York
+and Philadelphia, and had visited almost every city in the Union. As
+Guedeldk--that was the Oneida's name--and I were rambling along, we met a
+negro who was journeying in great haste--he stopped to inquire if we had
+seen that day, or the day previous, any nigger-woman going towards the
+lake. I had passed the day before two waggon loads of negros, which were
+being transported, by the state, to Canada. A local law prohibits the
+settlement of people of colour within the state of Ohio, which was now put
+in force, although it had remained dormant for many years.
+
+There was much hardship in the case of this poor fellow. He had left his
+family at Cincinnati, and had gone to work on the canal some eighteen or
+twenty miles distant. He had been absent about a week; and on his return
+he found his house empty, and was informed that his wife and children had
+been seized, and transported to Canada. The enforcement of this law has
+been since abandoned; and I must say, although the law itself is at
+variance with the Constitution of the United States, which is paramount to
+all other laws, that its abandonment is due entirely to the good feeling
+of the people of Ohio, who exclaimed loudly against the cruelty of the
+measure.
+
+FOOTNOTES:
+
+[1] De Witt Clinton, speaking of the Iroquois, or five nations, says,
+"Their exterior relations, general interests, and national affairs, were
+conducted and superintended by a great council, assembled annually in
+Onondaga, the central canton, composed of the chiefs of each republic;
+and eighty sachems were frequently convened at this national assembly. It
+took cognizance of the great questions of war and peace; of the affairs
+of the tributary nations, and their negotiations with the French and
+English colonies. All their proceedings were conducted with great
+deliberation, and were distinguished for order, decorum, and solemnity.
+In eloquence, in dignity, and in all the characteristics of profound
+policy, they surpassed the assembly of feudal barons, and perhaps were
+not inferior to the great Amphictyonic Council of Greece."
+
+[2]
+                                              Dollars.
+
+Amount of lands sold up to the year 1824     44,229,837
+
+173,176,606 acres unsold, estimated at one
+dollar per acre. The Congress price was
+then two dollars, but was subsequently
+reduced to a dollar and a quarter, and
+is now 75 cents.                            173,176,606
+                                            -----------
+                                            217,406,443
+
+Deduct value of annuities, expenses of
+surveying, &c. &c., being the amount of
+purchase-money paid for same                  4,243,632
+                                            -----------
+
+Profit arising to the United States from
+purchases of land from the Indians          213,162,811
+                                            -----------
+Allowing 480 cents, to the pound sterling, the gross
+          profit is £44,408,918. 19_s_. 2_d_.
+
+[3] There are lands west of the Mississippi, which would be dear at ten
+cents per hundred acres.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER III.
+
+
+From Little Sandusky, I passed through Marion, in Marion county. This
+town, like most others in Ohio, is advancing rapidly, and has at present
+several good brick buildings. The clap-boarded frame houses, which compose
+the great mass of habitations in the towns throughout the western country,
+in general have a neat appearance. I here saw gazetted three divorces, all
+of which had been granted on the applications of the wives. One, on the
+ground of the husband's absenting himself for one year: another, on
+account of a blow having been given: and the third for general neglect.
+There are few instances of a woman's being refused a divorce in the
+western country, as dislike is very generally--and very
+rationally--supposed to constitute a sufficient reason for granting the
+ladies their freedom.
+
+I crossed Delaware county into Franklin county, where Columbus, the
+capital of the state, is situated. The roads from the lake to this city,
+with few exceptions, passed through woodlands, and the country is but
+thinly settled. Beech, oak, elm, hickory, walnut, white-oak, ash, &c.
+compose the bulk of the forest trees; and in the bottom lands, enormous
+sycamores are to be seen stretching their white arms almost to the very
+clouds. The land is of various denominations, but in general may be termed
+fertile.
+
+Columbus, the capital of Ohio, is seated on the Scioto river, which is
+navigable for keel and flat boats, and small craft, almost to its source;
+and by means of a portage of about four miles, to Sandusky river, which
+flows into lake Erie, a convenient communication is established between
+the lakes, and the great western waters. The town is well laid out. The
+streets are wide; and the court-house, town-hall, and public offices, are
+built of brick. There are some good taverns here, and the tables d'hôtes
+are well and abundantly supplied.
+
+There are land offices in every county seat, in which maps and plans of
+the county are kept. On these, the disposable tracts of country are
+distinguished from those which have been disposed of. The purchaser pays
+one fourth of the purchase money, for which he gets a receipt,--this
+constitutes his title, until, on paying the residue, he receives a regular
+title deed. He may however pay the full amount at once, and receive a
+discount of, I believe, eight per cent. A township comprises thirty-six
+square miles (twenty three thousand and forty acres) in sections of six
+hundred and forty acres each, which are subdivided, to accommodate
+purchasers, into quarter sections, or lots of a hundred and sixty acres.
+The sixteenth section is not sold, but reserved for the support of the
+poor, for education, and other public uses. There is no provision made in
+this, or any other state, for the ministers of religion, which is found to
+be highly beneficial to the interests of practical Christianity. The
+congress price of land has lately been reduced from a dollar and a quarter
+per acre, to seventy-five cents.
+
+Ohio averages 184 miles in extent, from north to south, and 220 miles from
+east to west. Area, 40,000 square miles, or 25,600,000 acres. The
+population in 1790, was 3000; in 1800, 45,365; in 1810, 230,760; and in
+1820, 581,434. White males, 300,609; white females, 275,955; free people
+of colour, 4723; militia in 1821, 83,247. The last census, taken in 1830,
+makes the population 937,679.
+
+Having no more Indian reserves to visit, I took the stage, and rumbled
+over corduroys, republicans, stumps, and ruts, until my ribs were
+literally sore, through London, Xenia, and Lebanon, to Cincinnati.
+
+At Lebanon there is a large community of the shaking Quakers. They have
+establishments also in Mason county, and at Covington, in Kentucky: their
+tenets are strictly Scriptural. They contend, that confessing their sins
+to one another, is necessary to a state of perfection; that the church of
+Christ ought to have all things in common; that none of the members of
+this church ought to cohabit, but be literally virgins; and that to dance
+and be merry is their duty, which part of their doctrines they take from
+the thirty-first chapter of Jeremiah.
+
+Their ceremonies are as follows:--The men sit on the left hand, squatting
+on the floor, with their knees up, and their hands clasped round them.
+Opposite, in the same posture, sit the women, whose appearance is most
+cadaverous and sepulchral, dressed in the Quaker costume. After sitting
+for some time in this hatching position, they all rise and sing a canting
+sort of hymn, during which the women keep time by elevating themselves on
+their toes. After the singing has ceased, a discourse is delivered by one
+of the elders; which being ended, the men pull off their coats and
+waistcoats. All being prepared, one of the brethren steps forward to the
+centre of the room, and in a loud voice, gives out a tune, beating time
+with his foot, and singing _lal lal la, lal lal la_, &c., being joined by
+the whole group, all jumping as high as possible, clapping their hands,
+and at intervals twirling round,--but making rather ungraceful
+_pirouettes_: this exercise they continue until they are completely
+exhausted. In their ceremonials they much resemble the howling Dervishes
+of the Moslems, whom they far surpass in fanaticism.
+
+Within about ten miles of Cincinnati we took up an old doctor, who was
+going to that city for the purpose of procuring a warrant against one of
+his neighbours, who, he had reason to believe, was concerned in the
+kidnapping of a free negro the night before. This is by no means an
+uncommon occurrence in the free states bordering the great rivers. The
+unfortunate black man, when captured, is hurried down to the river, thrust
+into a flat boat, and carried to the plantations. Such negros are not
+exposed for sale in the public bazaars, as that would be attended with
+risk; but a false bill of sale is made out, and the sale is effected to
+some planter before they reach Orleans. There is, of course, always
+collusion between the buyer and seller, and the man is disposed of,
+generally, for half his value.
+
+These are certainly atrocious acts; yet when a British subject reads such
+passages as the following, in the histories of East India government, he
+must feel that if they were ten times as infamous and numerous as they are
+in reality, it becomes not _him_ to censure them. Bolts, who was a judge
+of the mayor's court of Calcutta, says, in his "Considerations on India
+Affairs," page 194, "With every species of monopoly, therefore, every kind
+of oppression to manufacturers of all denominations throughout the whole
+country has daily increased; insomuch that weavers, for daring to sell
+their goods, and Dallals and Pykars, for having contributed to, or
+connived at, such sales, have by the _Company's agents,_ been frequently
+seized and imprisoned, confined in irons, fined considerable sums of
+money, flogged, and deprived, in the most ignominious manner, of what they
+esteem most valuable, their castes. Weavers also, upon their inability to
+perform such agreements as have been _forced from them by the Company's
+agents_, universally known in Bengal by the name of _Mutchulcahs_, have
+had their goods seized and sold on the spot, to make good the deficiency:
+and the winders of raw silk, called _Nagaards_, have been treated also
+with such injustice, that instances have been known of their cutting off
+their thumbs, to prevent their being forced to wind silk. This last kind
+of workmen were pursued with such rigour, during Lord Clive's late
+government in Bengal, from a zeal for _increasing the Company's
+investment_ of raw silk, that the most sacred laws of society were
+atrociously violated; for it was _a common thing for the Company's
+scapoys_ to be sent by force of arms to break open the houses of the
+Armenian merchants established at Sydabad (who have from time immemorial
+been largely concerned in the silk trade), and forcibly take the
+_Nagaards_ from their work, and carry them away to the English factory."
+
+As we approached Cincinnati the number of farms, and the extent of
+cultivated country, indicated the comparative magnitude of that city.
+Fields in this country have nothing like the rich appearance of those in
+England and Ireland, being generally filled with half-rotten stumps,
+scattered here and there among the growing corn, producing a most
+disagreeable effect. Then, instead of the fragrant quickset hedge, there
+is a "worm fence"--the rudest description of barrier known in the
+country--which consists simply of bars, about eight or nine feet in
+length, laid zig-zag on each other alternately: the improvement on this,
+and the _ne plus ultra_ in the idea of a west country farmer, is what is
+termed a "post and rail fence." This denomination of fence is to be seen
+sometimes in the vicinity of the larger towns, and is constructed of posts
+six feet in length, sunk in the ground to the depth of about a foot, and
+at eight or ten feet distance; the rails are then laid into mortises cut
+into the posts, at intervals of about thirteen or fourteen inches, which
+completes the work.
+
+Cincinnati is built on a bend of the Ohio river, which takes here a
+semicircular form, and runs nearly west; it afterwards flows in a more
+southerly direction. A complete chain of hills, sweeping from one point of
+the bend round to the other, encloses the city in a sort of amphitheatre.
+The houses are mostly brick, and the streets all paved. There are several
+spacious and handsome market houses, which on market days are stocked with
+all kinds of provisions--indeed I think the market of Cincinnati is very
+nearly the best supplied in the United States. There are many respectable
+public buildings here, such as a court-house, theatre, bazaar, (built by
+Mrs. Trollope, but the speculation failed), and divers churches, in which
+you may see well-dressed women, and hear orthodox, heterodox, and every
+other species of doctrine, promulgated and enforced by strength of lungs,
+and length of argument, with pulpit-drum accompaniment, and all other
+requisites _ad captandum vulgus_.
+
+The city stands on two plains: one called the bottom, extends about 260
+yards back from the river, and is three miles in length, from Deer Creek
+to Mill Creek; the other is fifty feet higher than the first, and is
+called the Hill; this extends back about a mile. The bottom is sixty-five
+feet above low water mark. In 1815 the population was estimated at 6000,
+and at present it is supposed to be upwards of 25,000 souls. By means of
+the Dayton canal, which runs from that town nearly parallel with the "Big
+Miami" river, a very extensive trade, for all kinds of produce, is
+established with the back country. Steamers are constantly arriving at,
+and departing from the wharf, on their passage up and down the river. This
+is one of the many examples to be met with in the western country, of
+towns springing into importance within the memory of comparatively young
+men--a log-house is still standing, which is shewn as the first habitation
+built by the backwoodsman, who squatted in the forest where now stands a
+handsome and flourishing city.
+
+On arriving at Cincinnati, I learned that my friend T---- had taken up his
+abode at a farm-house a few miles from town, where I accordingly repaired,
+and found him in good health, and initiated into all the manners, habits,
+customs, and diversions of the natives. Farming people in Ohio work hard.
+The women have no sinecures, being occupied the greater part of the day in
+cooking; as they breakfast at eight, dine at half-past twelve, and sup at
+six, and at each of these meals, meat, and other cooked dishes are served
+up. In farming they co-operate with each other. When a farmer wishes to
+have his corn husked, he rides round to his neighbours and informs them of
+his intention. An invitation of this kind was once given in my presence.
+The farmer entered the house, sat down, and after the customary
+compliments were passed, in the usual laconic style, the following
+dialogue took place. "I guess I'll husk my corn to-morrow
+afternoon."--"You've a mighty heap this year."--"Considerable of corn."
+The host at length said, "Well, I guess we'll be along"--and the matter
+was arranged. All these gatherings are under the denomination of
+"frolics"--such as "corn-husking frolic," "apple-cutting frolic,"
+"quilting frolic," &c.
+
+Being somewhat curious in respect to national amusements, I attended a
+"corn-husking frolic" in the neighbourhood of Cincinnati. The corn was
+heaped up into a sort of hillock close by the granary, on which the young
+"Ohiohians" and "buck-eyes"--the lasses of Ohio are called
+"buck-eyes"--seated themselves in pairs; while the old wives, and old
+farmers were posted around, doing little, but talking much. Now the laws
+of "corn-husking frolics" ordain, that for each red ear that a youth
+finds, he is entitled to exact a kiss from his partner. There were two or
+three young Irishmen in the group, and I could observe the rogues kissing
+half-a-dozen times on the same red ears. Each of them laid a red-ear close
+by him, and after every two or three he'd husk, up he'd hold the
+redoubtable red-ear to the astonished eyes of the giggling lass who sate
+beside him, and most unrelentingly inflict the penalty. The "gude wives"
+marvelled much at the unprecedented number of red-ears which that lot of
+corn contained: by-and-by, they thought it "a kind of curious" that the
+Irishmen should find so many of them--at length, the cheat was discovered,
+amidst roars of laughter. The old farmers said the lads were "wide
+awake," and the "buck-eyes" declared that there was no being up to the
+plaguy Irishmen "no how," for they were always sure to have every thing
+their own way. But the mischief of it was, the young Americans took the
+hint, and the poor "buck-eyes" got nothing like fair play for the
+remainder of that evening. All agreed that there was more laughing, and
+more kissing done at that, than had been known at any corn-husking frolic
+since "the Declaration."
+
+The farmers of Ohio are a class of people about equivalent to our second
+and third rate farmer, inasmuch as they work themselves, but possessing
+infinitely more independence in their character and deportment. Every
+white male, who is a citizen of the United States, and has resided one
+year in the state, and paid taxes, has a vote. The members of the
+legislature are elected annually, and those of the senate biennially; half
+of the members of the latter branch vacating their seats every year. The
+representatives, in addition to the qualifications necessary to the
+elector, must be twenty-five years of age; and the senators must have
+resided in the state two years, and must be thirty years of age. The
+governor must be thirty years of age, an inhabitant of the state four
+years, and a citizen of the United States twelve years,--he is eligible
+only for six years in eight.
+
+Notwithstanding the numerous religious sects that are to be found in this
+country, there is nothing like sectarian animosity prevailing. This is to
+be attributed to the ministers of religion being paid as they deserve, and
+no one class of people being taxed to support the religious tenets of
+another.
+
+The farmers of this state are by no means religious, in a doctrinal sense;
+on the contrary, they appear indifferent on matters of this nature. The
+girls _sometimes_ go to church, which here, as in all Christian countries,
+is equivalent to the bazaars of Smyrna and Bagdad; and as the girls go,
+their "dads" must pay the parson. The Methodists are very zealous, and
+have frequent "revivals" and "camp-meetings." I was at two of the latter
+assemblages, one in Kentucky, and the other in Ohio. I shall endeavour to
+convey some idea of this extraordinary species of religious festival.
+
+To the right of Cheriot, which lies in a westerly direction, about ten
+miles from Cincinnati, under the shade of tall oak and elm trees, the camp
+was pitched in a quadrangular form. Three sides were occupied by tents for
+the congregation, and the fourth by booths for the preachers. A little in
+advance before the booths was erected a platform for the performing
+preacher, and at the foot of this, inclosed by forms, was a species of
+sanctuary, called "the penitents' pen." People of every denomination might
+be seen here, allured by various motives. The girls, dressed in all
+colours of the rainbow, congregated to display their persons and
+costumes; the young men came to see the girls, and considered it a sort of
+"frolic;" and the old women, induced by fanaticism, and other motives,
+assembled in large numbers, and waited with patience for the proper season
+of repentance. At the intervals between the "preachments," the young
+married and unmarried women promenaded round the tents, and their smiling
+faces formed a striking contrast to the demure countenances of their more
+experienced sisters, who, according to their age or temperament, descanted
+on the folly, or condemned the sinfulness of such conduct. Some of those
+old dames, I was informed, were decoy birds, who shared the profits with
+the preachers, and attended all the "camp-meetings" in the country.
+
+The psalmodies were performed in the true Yankee style of nasal-melody,
+and at proper and seasonable intervals the preachings were delivered. The
+preachers managed their tones and discourses admirably, and certainly
+displayed a good deal of tact in their calling. They use the most
+extravagant gestures--astounding bellowings--a canting hypocritical
+whine--slow and solemn, although by no means _musical_ intonations, and
+the _et ceteras_ that complete the qualifications of a regular
+camp-meeting methodist parson. During the exhortations the brothers and
+sisters were calling out--Bless God! glory! glory! amen! God grant! Jesus!
+&c.
+
+At the adjournment for dinner, a knowing-looking gentleman was appointed
+to deliver an admonition. I admired this person much for the ingenuity he
+displayed in introducing the subject of collection, and the religious
+obligation of each and every individual to contribute largely to the
+support of the preacher and his brothers of the vineyard. He set forth the
+respectability of the county, as evinced by former contributions, and
+thence inferred, most logically, that the continuance of that respectable
+character depended on the amount of that day's collection. A conversation
+took place behind me, during this part of the preacher's exhortation,
+between three young farmers, which, as being characteristic, I shall
+repeat.
+
+"The old man is wide awake, I guess."
+
+"I reckon he knows a thing or two."
+
+"I calculate he's been on board a flat afore now."
+
+"Yes, I guess a Yankee 'd find it damned hard to sell him _hickory_
+nutmegs."
+
+"It'd take a pretty smart man to poke it on to a parson any how."
+
+"I guess'd it'd come to dollars and cents in the end."
+
+After sunset the place was lighted up by beacon fires and candles, and the
+scene seemed to be changing to one of more deep and awful interest. About
+nine o'clock the preachers began to rally their forces--the candles were
+snuffed--fuel was added to the fires--clean straw was shook in the
+"penitents' pen"--and every movement "gave dreadful note of preparation."
+At length the hour was sounded, and the faithful forthwith assembled. A
+chosen leader commenced to harangue--he bellowed--he roared--he whined--he
+shouted until he became actually hoarse, and the perspiration rolled down
+his face. Now, the faithful seemed to take the infection, and as if
+overcome by their excited feelings, flung themselves headlong on the straw
+into the penitents' pen--the old dames leading the way. The preachers, to
+the number of a dozen, gave a loud shout and rushed into the thick of the
+penitents. A scene now ensued that beggars all description. About twenty
+women, young and old, were lying in every direction and position, with
+caps and without caps, screeching, bawling, and kicking in hysterics, and
+profaning the name of Jesus. The preachers, on their knees amongst them,
+were with Stentorian voices exhorting them to call louder and louder on
+the Lord, until he came upon them; whilst their _attachées,_ with
+turned-up eyes and smiling countenances, were chanting hymns and shaking
+hands with the multitude. Some would now and then give a hearty laugh,
+which is an indication of superior grace, and is called "the holy laugh."
+The scene altogether was highly entertaining--penitents, parsons, caps,
+combs, and straw, jumbled in one heterogeneous mass, lay heaving on the
+ground, and formed at this juncture a grouping that might be done justice
+to by the pencil of Hogarth, or the pen of the author of Hudibras; but of
+which I fear an inferior pen or pencil must fail in conveying an adequate
+idea.
+
+The women were at length carried off, fainting, by their friends, and the
+preachers began to prepare for another scene. From the time of those
+faintings, the "new birth" is dated, which means a spiritual resurrection
+or revival.
+
+The scene that followed appeared to be a representation of "the Last
+Supper." The preachers assembled round a table, and acted as disciples,
+whilst one of them, the leader, presided. The bread was consecrated,
+divided and eaten--the wine served much after the same manner. The
+faithful, brothers and sisters, were now called upon to partake of the
+Sacrament--proper warning, however, being given to the gentlemen, that
+when the wine was handed to them, they were not to take a _drink_, as that
+was quite unnecessary, as a small sup would answer every purpose. One
+gentleman seemed to have forgotten this hint, and attempted to take rather
+more than a sup; but he was prevented by the administering preacher
+snatching the goblet from him with both hands. Many said they were obliged
+to substitute _brandy and water_ for wine; but for this fact I cannot
+vouch. Another straw-tumbling scene now began; and, as if by way of
+variety, the inmates of five or six tents got up similar scenes among
+themselves. The preachers left the field to join the tenters; and, if
+possible, surpassed their previous exhibitions. The women were
+occasionally making confessions, _pro bono publico_, when sundry
+"backslidings" were acknowledged for the edification of the multitude. We
+left the camp about two o'clock in the morning, when these poor fanatics
+were still in full cry.
+
+At Hell Town, near this place, there was an officer's muster held about
+this time. Every citizen exercising the elective franchise is also
+eligible to serve in the militia. There are two general musters held every
+year in each county, and several company meetings. Previous to the general
+muster there is an officer's muster, when the captains and subalterns are
+put through their exercise by the field officers. At this muster, which I
+attended, the superior officers in command certainly appeared to be
+sufficiently conversant with tactics, and explained the rationale of each
+movement in a clear and concise manner; but the captains and subalterns
+went through their exercise somewhat in the manner of the yeomen of the
+Green Island. When the gentlemen were placed in line, and attention was
+commanded, the General turned round to converse with his coadjutors--no
+sooner had he done this than about twenty heroes squatted _a l'Indien;_
+no doubt deeming it more consistent, the day being warm, to sit than
+stand. On the commander observing this movement, which he seemed to think
+quite unmilitary, he remonstrated--the warriors arose; but, alas! the just
+man _falls_ seven times a day, and the militia officers of Hamilton county
+seemed to think it not derogatory to their characters to _squat_ five or
+six. The offence was repeated several times, and as often censured. They
+wheeled into battalions, and out of battalions, in most glorious
+disorder--their _straight_ lines were _zig-zag._ In marching abreast, they
+came to a fence next the road--the tavern was opposite, and the temptation
+too great to be resisted--a number threw down their muskets--tumbled
+themselves over the fence, and rushed into the bar-room to refresh! An
+American's heart sickens at restraint, and nothing but necessity will
+oblige him to observe discipline.
+
+The question naturally arises, how would these forces resist the finely
+disciplined troops of Europe? The answer is short: If the Americans would
+consent to fight _à bataille rangée_ on one of the prairies of Illinois,
+undoubtedly the disciplined troops would prevail; but as neither their
+experience nor inclination is likely to lead them into such circumstances,
+my opinion is, that send the finest army Europe can produce into this
+country, in six months, the forests, swamps, and deadly rifle, united,
+will annihilate it--and let it be remembered, that at the battle of New
+Orleans, there were between two and three thousand British slain, and
+there were only twelve Americans killed, and perhaps double that number
+wounded. In patriotism and personal courage, the Americans are certainly
+not inferior to the people of any nation.
+
+There had been lately throughout the States a good deal of excitement
+produced by an attempt, made by the Presbyterians, to stop the mails on
+the sabbath. This party is headed by a Doctor Ely, of Philadelphia, a
+would-be "lord spiritual," and they made this merely as a trial of
+strength, preparatory to some other measures calculated to lead to a
+church establishment. Their designs, however, have been detected, and
+measures accordingly taken to resist them. At a meeting at which I was
+present at Cincinnati, the people were most enthusiastic, and some very
+strong resolutions were passed, expressive of their abhorrence of this
+attempt to violate the constitution of America.
+
+Good farms within about three or four miles of Cincinnati, one-third
+cleared, are sold at from thirty to fifty dollars per acre. Cows sell at
+from ten to twenty dollars. Horses, at from twenty-five to seventy-five
+and one hundred dollars. Sheep from two to three dollars. There are some
+tolerable flocks of sheep throughout this state, but they are of little
+value beyond the price of the wool, a most unaccountable antipathy to
+mutton existing among the inhabitants.
+
+Whilst on the banks of Lake Erie, having heard a great deal of
+conversation about the "lake fever," I made several inquiries from the
+inhabitants on that subject, the result of which confirmed me in the
+opinion, that the shores of the lakes are quite as healthy as any other
+part of the country, and that here, as elsewhere, the disease arises from
+stagnant pools, swamps, and masses of decayed animal and vegetable matter,
+which are allowed to remain and accumulate in the vicinity of settlements.
+When at New York, I met an old and wealthy farmer, who was himself,
+although eighty years of age, in the enjoyment of rude health. He informed
+me that he had resided in Canada, on the shores of Lake Erie, for the last
+fifty years, and that neither he nor any one of his family had ever been
+afflicted with fever of any description. The district in which he lived,
+was entirely free from local nuisances, and the inhabitants he
+represented as being as healthy as any in the United States.
+
+My observations, so far, lead me to conclude, that this climate agrees
+fully as well with Europeans as with the natives, indeed that the
+susceptibility to fever and ague is greater in the natives than in
+Europeans of good habits. The cause I conceive to be this: the early
+settlers had to encounter swamps of the most pestilential description, and
+dense forests through which the sun's rays had never penetrated, and which
+industry and cultivation have since made in a great measure to disappear.
+They notoriously suffered much from the ravages of malaria, and such as
+survived the baleful effects of this disease, escaped with impaired
+constitutions. Now this susceptibility to intermittent fever, appears to
+me to have been transmitted to their descendants, and to act as the
+predisposing cause. I have seen English and Irish people who have been in
+the country upwards of thirty years, who look just as you would expect to
+find persons of their age at home.
+
+There are situations evidently unhealthy, such as river bottoms, and the
+vicinity of creeks. The soil in those situations is alluvial, and its
+extreme fertility often induces unfortunate people to reside in them. The
+appearance of those persons in general is truly wretched.
+
+The women here, although they live as long as those in the old country,
+yet they fade much sooner, and, with few exceptions, have bad teeth.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER IV.
+
+
+Having decided on visiting New Harmony, in Indiana, where our friend B----
+had been for some time enjoying the delights of sylvan life, and the
+refinements of backwoods-society, T---- and I purchased a horse, and
+Dearborne, a species of light waggon used in this country for travelling.
+We furnished ourselves with a small axe, hunting knives, and all things
+necessary for encamping when occasion required, and so set out about the
+beginning of September.
+
+We crossed the Big-Miami river, and proceeded by a tolerable road, and
+some good farms, to Lawrenceburg, a handsome town on the Ohio, within a
+mile of the outlet of the Miami. From thence we drove on towards
+Wilmington; but our horse becoming jaded, we found it expedient to "camp
+out," within some miles of that town. Next morning we passed through
+Wilmington, but lost the direct track through the forest, and took the
+road to Versailles, which lay in a more northerly direction than the route
+we had proposed to ourselves. This road was one of those newly cut through
+the forest, and there frequently occurred intervals of five or six miles
+between the settlements; and of the road itself, a tolerably correct idea
+may be formed by noting the stipulations made with the contractors, which
+are solely that the roads shall be of a certain width, and that no stump
+shall be left projecting more than _fifteen inches_ above the ground.
+
+On the night of the second day we reached the vicinity of Versailles, and
+put up at the residence of a backwoodsman--a fine looking fellow, with a
+particularly ugly _squaw_. He had come from Kentucky five years
+before--sat down in the forest--"built him" a log-house--wielded his axe
+to the tune of "The Hunters of Kentucky," and had now eighteen acres of
+cleared land, and all the _et ceteras_ of a farm. We supped off
+venison-steaks and stewed squirrel. Our host told us that there was "a
+pretty smart chance of deer" in the neighbourhood, and that when he first
+"located," "there was a small sprinkling of _baar_" (bear), but that at
+present nothing of the kind was to be seen. There was very little comfort
+in the appearance of this establishment; yet the good dame had a
+side-saddle, hung on a peg in one of the apartments, which would not have
+disgraced the lady of an Irish squireen. This appears to be an article of
+great moment in the estimation of West-country ladies, and when nothing
+else about the house is even tolerable, the side-saddle is of the most
+fashionable pattern.
+
+From Versailles, we took the track to Vernon, through a rugged and swampy
+road, it having rained the night before. The country is hilly, and
+interspersed with runs, which are crossed with some difficulty, the
+descents and ascents being very considerable. The stumps, "corduroys"
+(rails laid horizontally across the road where the ground is marshy)
+swamps, and "republicans," (projecting roots of trees, so called from the
+stubborn tenacity with which they adhere to the ground, it being almost
+impossible to grub them up), rendered the difficulty of traversing this
+forest so great, that notwithstanding our utmost exertions we were unable
+to make more than sixteen miles from sunrise to sunset, when, both the
+horse and ourselves being completely exhausted, we halted until morning. I
+was awoke at sunrise by a "white-billed woodpecker," which was making the
+woods ring by the rattling of its bill against a tree. This is a large
+handsome bird, (the _picus principalis_ of Linnaeus), it is sometimes
+called here the wood-cock. Pigeons, squirrels, and turtle-doves abound in
+all these forests, and my friend being an expert gunner, we had always
+plenty of game for dinner. The morning was still grey when we set forward.
+
+We forded the Muskakituck river at Vernon, which stands on its head
+waters, and is a country seat. We then directed our course to Brownstown,
+on the east branch of White river. We found the roads still bad until we
+came within about ten miles of that place. There the country began to
+assume a more cultivated appearance, and the roads became tolerably good,
+being made through a sandy or gravelly district. In the neighbourhood of
+Brownstown there are some rich lands, and from that to Salem, a distance
+of twenty-two miles, we were much pleased with the country. We had been
+hitherto journeying through dense forests, and except when we came to a
+small town, could never see more than about ten yards on either side. All
+through Indiana the peaches were in great abundance this year, and such
+was the weight of fruit the trees had to sustain, that the branches were
+invariably broken where not propped.
+
+From Salem we took a westward track by Orleans to Hindostan, crossed the
+east branch of White river, and passed through Washington. At a short
+distance from this town, we had to cross White river again, near the west
+branch, which is much larger than the east branch. We attempted to ford
+it, and had got into the middle of the stream before we discovered that
+the bottom was quicksands. The horse was scared at the footing,--he
+plunged and broke the traces; however, after a tolerable wetting, we
+succeeded in getting safe out. A little above the place where we made the
+attempt, we found there was a ferry-flat. The ferryman considered our
+attempt as dangerous, for had we gone much further into the stream we
+should have shot into the quicksands in the deep current. This day the
+fates were most unpropitious to us; and had we had, like Socrates, a
+familiar demon at our elbow, he most assuredly would have warned us not
+to proceed. We had no sooner got into the ferry-flat, and pushed off from
+shore, than the horse tumbled overboard, carriage and all, and was with
+difficulty saved from drowning.
+
+We passed through Petersburg to Princeton; but having lost the track, and
+got into several _culs de sacs_, an occurrence which is by no means
+pleasant--as in this case you are unable to turn the carriage, and have no
+alternative but cutting down one or two small trees in order to effect a
+passage. After a great deal of danger and difficulty, we succeeded in
+returning on the true bridle-path, and arrived about ten at night in a
+small village, through which we had passed three hours before. The gloom
+and pitchy darkness of an American forest at night, cannot be conceived by
+the inhabitants of an open country, and the traversing a narrow path
+interspersed with stumps and logs is both fatiguing and dangerous. Our
+horse seemed so well aware of this danger, that whenever the night set
+in, he could not be induced to move, unless one of us walked a little in
+advance before him, when he would rest his nose on our arm and then
+proceed. We crossed the Potoka to Princeton, a neat town, surrounded by a
+fast settling country, and so on to Harmony.
+
+New Harmony is seated on the banks of the Wabash; and following the
+sinuosities of that river, it is distant sixty-four or five miles from the
+Ohio, but over land, not more than seventeen. This settlement was
+purchased by Messrs. Mac Clure and Owen from Mr. Rapp, in the year 1823.
+The Rappites had been in possession of the place for six years, during
+which they had erected several large brick buildings of a public nature,
+and sundry smaller ones as residences, and had cultivated a considerable
+quantity of land in the immediate vicinity of the town. Mr. Owen intended
+to have established here a community of union and mutual co-operation;
+but, from a too great confidence in the power of the system which he
+advocates, to _reform_ character, he has been necessitated to abandon that
+design at present.
+
+Harmony must have been certainly a desirable residence when it was the
+abode of the many literary and scientific characters who composed a part
+of that short-lived community. A few of these still linger here, and may
+be seen stalking through the streets of Harmony, like Marius among the
+ruins of Carthage, deploring the moral desolation that now reigns in this
+once happy place.
+
+Le Seur, the naturalist, and fellow traveller of Peron, in his voyage to
+the Austral regions, is still here. The suavity of manners, and the
+scientific acquirements of this gentleman, command the friendship and
+esteem of all those who have the pleasure of his acquaintance. He has a
+large collection of specimens connected with natural history, which the
+western parts of this country yield in abundance. The advantages presented
+here for the indulgence of retired habits, form at present the only
+attractions sufficient to induce him to live out of _la belle France_.
+
+Mr. Thomas Say, of Philadelphia, who accompanied Major Long on his
+expedition to the Rocky Mountains, also resides here. He too is a recluse,
+and is now preparing a work on his favourite subject, natural history. His
+garden contains a tolerable collection of Mexican and other exotic plants.
+
+Harmony is built on the second bottom of the Wabash, and is perhaps half a
+mile from the river at low water, the first bottom being about that
+breadth. Mosquitos abound here, and are extremely troublesome. There are
+several orchards in the neighbourhood well stocked with apples, peaches,
+&c.; and the soil being rich alluvion, the farms are productive--so much
+as fifty dollars per acre is asked for cleared land, close to the town.
+There is a great scarcity of money here, as in most parts of Indiana, and
+trade is chiefly carried on by barter. Pork, lard, corn, bacon, beans,
+&c., being given, by the farmers, to the store-keepers, in exchange for
+dry goods, cutlery, crockery-ware, &c. The store-keepers either sell the
+produce they have thus collected to river-traders, or forward it to New
+Orleans on their own account.
+
+We made an excursion down the river in true Indian style. Our party,
+consisting of four, equipped in a suitable manner, the weather being then
+delightfully warm, having stowed on board a canoe plenty of provisions,
+paddled down the Wabash. The scenery on the banks of this river is
+picturesque. The foliage in some places springs from the water's edge,
+whilst at other points it recedes, leaving a bar of fine white sand. The
+breadth of the Wabash, at Harmony, is about 200 yards, and it divides
+frequently on its course to the Ohio, forming islands of various degrees
+of beauty and magnitude. On one of these, about six miles from Harmony,
+called the "Cut-off," we determined on encamping. Accordingly, we moored
+our canoe--pitched our tent--lighted our fire--bathed--and having
+acquired enormous appetites by exertion, commenced the very agreeable
+operation of demolishing our provisions. We roamed about that and an
+adjacent island, until evening, when we returned to regale. These islands
+are generally covered with "cane brakes," and low brush wood, which
+renders it difficult to effect a passage across them. Cotton-wood, beech,
+maple, hickory, and white oak, are the trees in greatest abundance.
+Spice-wood, sassafras, and dittany, are also plenty. Of these a decoction
+is made, which some of the woods-people prefer to tea; but it is not in
+general repute. The paw-paw tree (_annona triloba_) produces a fruit
+somewhat resembling in taste and shape the fig-banana, but certainly much
+inferior to that delicious fruit. We saw several deer in the woods, and
+some cranes upon the shore. With smoking, &c., we passed the evening, and
+then retired--not to bed, for we had none--but to a right good
+substitute, a few dry leaves strewn upon the ground--our heads covered by
+the tent, and at our feet a large fire, which we kept up the whole night.
+Thus circumstanced, we found it by no means disagreeable.
+
+We spent greater part of next day much after the manner of the preceding,
+and concluded that it would be highly irrational to shoot game, having
+plenty of provisions; yet I suspect our being too lazy to hunt, influenced
+us not a little in that philosophical decision.
+
+Whilst at Harmony, I collected some information relative to the failure of
+the community, and I shall here give a slight sketch of the result of my
+inquiries. I must observe that so many, and such conflicting statements,
+respecting public measures, I believe never were before made by a body of
+persons dwelling within limits so confined as those of Harmony. Some of
+the _ci-devant_ "communicants" call Robert Owen a fool, whilst others
+brand him with still more opprobrious epithets: and I never could get two
+of them to agree as to the primary causes of the failure of that
+community.
+
+The community was composed of a heterogeneous mass, collected together by
+public advertisement, which may be divided into three classes. The first
+class was composed of a number of well-educated persons, who occupied
+their time in eating and drinking--dressing and promenading--attending
+balls, and _improving the habits_ of society; and they may be termed the
+_aristocracy_ of this Utopian republic. The second class was composed of
+practical co-operators, who were well inclined to work, but who had no
+share, or voice, in the management of affairs. The third and last class
+was a body of theoretical philosophers--Stoics, Platonics, Pythagoreans,
+Epicureans, Peripatetics, and Cynics, who amused themselves in _striking
+out plans_--exposing the errors of those in operation--caricaturing--and
+turning the whole proceedings into ridicule.
+
+The second class, disliking the species of co-operation afforded them by
+the first class, naturally became dissatisfied with their inactivity--and
+the third class laughed at them both. Matters were in this state for some
+time, until Mr. Owen found the funds were completely exhausted. He then
+stated that the community should divide; and that he would furnish land,
+and all necessary materials, for operations, to such of them as wished to
+form a community apart from the original establishment. This intimation
+was enough. The first class, with few exceptions, retired, followed by
+part of both the others, and all exclaiming against Mr. Owen's conduct. A
+person named Taylor, who had entered into a distillery speculation with
+one of Mr. Owen's sons, seized this opportunity to get the control of part
+of the property. Mr. Owen became embarrassed. Harmony was on the point of
+being sold by the sheriff--discord prevailed, and co-operation ceased.
+
+Of the many private and public charges brought against Mr. Owen, I shall
+only notice one. It is said that he invited people to throw up their
+establishments in other parts of America, and come to Harmony, conscious
+at the same time that the community could not succeed, and, indeed, not
+caring much about its success, having ultimately in view the increase of
+the value of his purchase, by collecting a number of persons together, and
+thus making a town--a common speculation in America. Whether these were
+his intentions or not, it is impossible for any man to assert or deny; but
+the fact is no less true, that such has been the result, and that the
+purchase has been increased in value by the failure of the community, so
+that _ultimately_ he is not likely to lose anything by the experiment. As
+to Mr. Owen's statements in public, "that he had been informed that the
+people of America were capable of governing themselves, and that he tried
+the experiment, and found they were not so,"--and that "the place having
+been purchased, it was necessary to get persons to occupy it." These
+constitute but an imperfect excuse for having induced the separation of
+families, caused many thriving establishments to be broken up, and even
+the ruin of some few individuals, who, although their capital was but
+small, yet having thrown it all into the common stock, when the community
+failed, found themselves in a state of complete destitution. These
+persons, then, forgetting the "doctrine of circumstances," and everything
+but the result, and the promises of Mr. Owen, censured him in no measured
+language, and cannot be convinced of the purity of his intentions in
+_that_ affair. Indeed, they have always at hand such a multiplicity of
+facts to prove that Mr. Owen himself mainly contributed to the failure,
+that one must be blinded by that partiality which so known a
+philanthropist necessarily inspires, not to be convinced that, however
+competent he may be to preach the doctrines of co-operation, he is
+totally incompetent to carry them into effect.
+
+But Mr. Owen has also declared in public that "the New Harmony experiment
+succeeded beyond his most sanguine expectations." Now what may be his
+peculiar notions of success, the public are totally ignorant, as he did
+not think fit to furnish any explanation; but this the public do know,
+that between the former and the latter statement there is a slight
+discrepancy.
+
+Some of Mr. Owen's friends _in London_ say, that every thing went on well
+at Harmony until he gave up the management--that is, that he governed the
+community for the first few weeks, the short period of its prosperity, and
+that it declined only from the time of his ceding the dictatorship. Now
+Mr. Owen _himself_ says, that he only interfered when he observed they
+were going wrong; implying that he did not interfere in the commencement,
+but did so subsequently. These are contradictions which would require a
+good deal of mystification to reconcile in appearance. All the
+communicants whom I met in America, although they differed on almost every
+other point, yet agreed on this,--that Mr. Owen interfered from first to
+last during his stay at Harmony, and that at the time when he first
+quitted it nothing but discord prevailed.
+
+Very little experience of a residence in the backwoods convinced Mr. Owen
+that he was not in the situation most consonant with his feelings. He had
+been, when in Europe, surrounded by people who regarded him as an oracle,
+and received his _ipse dixit_ as a sufficient solution for every
+difficulty. His situation at Harmony was very different; for most of the
+persons who came there had been accustomed to exercise their judgment in
+matters of practice, and this Mr. Owen is said not to have been able to
+endure. He would either evade, or refuse, answering direct questions,
+which naturally made men so accustomed to independence as the Americans
+are, indignant. The usual answer he gave to any presuming disciple who
+ventured to request an explanation, was, that "his young friend" was in a
+total state of ignorance, and that he should therefore attend the lectures
+more constantly for the future. There is this peculiarity respecting the
+philosophy propounded by Mr. Owen, which is, that after a pupil has been
+attending his lectures for eighteen months, he (Mr. Owen) declares that
+the said pupil knows nothing at all about his system. This certainly
+argues a defect either in matter or manner.
+
+His followers appear not to be aware of the fact, that Mr. Owen has not
+originated a single new idea in his whole book, but has simply put forward
+the notions of Rousseau, Voltaire, Condorcet, Plato, Sir Thomas More, &c.,
+in other language. His merit consists in this, and no small merit it is,
+that he has collated the ideas of these philosophers--arranged them in a
+tangible shape, and has devoted time and money to assist their
+dissemination.
+
+I find on one of his cards, printed for distribution, the following
+axioms, in the shape of queries, set forth as being _his_ doctrine,--not
+the doctrine which _he advocates_.
+
+"Does it depend upon man to be born of such and such parents?
+
+"Can he choose to take, or not to take, the opinions of his parents and
+instructors?
+
+"If born of Pagan or Mahometan parents, was it in his power to become a
+Christian?"
+
+These positions are laid down by Rousseau, in many passages of his works;
+but as one quotation will be sufficient to establish my assertion, I shall
+not trouble myself to look for others. He says, in his "Lettre à M. de
+Beaumont," p. 124, "A l'égard des objections sur les sectes particuliéres
+dans lesquelles l'universe est divisé, que ne puis-je leur donnez assez de
+force pour rendre chacun moins entêté de la sienne et moins ennemi des
+autres; pour porter chacque homme à l'indulgence, à la douceur, par cette
+consideration si frappante et si naturelle; que s'il fut né dans un autre
+pays, dans une autre secte il prendrait infailliblement pour l'erreur ce
+qu'il prends pour la verité, et pour la verité, ce qu'il prends pour
+l'erreur."
+
+None but a man whose mind had been warped by the too constant
+contemplation of one particular subject, as Mr. Owen's mind has been
+warped by the eternal consideration of the Utopian republic, could suppose
+the practicability of carrying those plans into full effect during the
+existence of the present generation. He himself, whilst preaching to his
+handful of disciples the doctrine of perfect equality, is acting on quite
+different principles; and he has his new lecture-room divided into
+compartments separating the classes in society--thus proving that even his
+few followers are unprepared for such a change as he wishes to introduce
+into society, and that he finds the necessity of temporising even with
+_them_.
+
+Another proof of the variance there is between the theory and the practice
+of Mr. Owen, may be found in the constitution of his new community. The
+first article says, that, "An annual subscription paid, of not less than
+one pound, constitutes _a member_, who is entitled to attend and _vote_ at
+all public meetings of the association." These may be termed the
+twenty-shilling freeholders of the community.[4] Then follow the other
+grades and conditions. A donation of one hundred pounds, constitutes _a
+visitor_ for life: a donation of five hundred pounds, _a vice-president_
+for life: and a donation of one thousand pounds, _a president_, who, "in
+addition to the last-mentioned privileges," will enjoy many others of a
+valuable nature.
+
+King James sold two hundred baronetcies of the United Kingdom, for one
+thousand pounds each; and Mr. Owen offers an unlimited number of
+presidentships in his incipient Utopia on the same advantageous terms. I
+by no means dispute that the distinction Mr. Owen will confer on his
+purchasers may be quite as valuable, in his eyes and those of his
+disciples, as that conferred by King James; yet I cannot help suspecting,
+despite of the insatiable yearning the aristocracy have after
+vain-glorious titles, that few of them will come forward as candidates for
+his Utopian honours.
+
+FOOTNOTES:
+
+[4] Since writing the above, I find that the constitution has already
+undergone an essential change; but Mr. Owen appears to entertain views of
+reformation very different indeed from our present Whig administration,
+for he has actually placed both _members_ and _visitors_ in schedule (A)
+of _his_ reform bill, and at one fell swoop has deprived this most
+deserving class of all political existence. None but vice-presidents and
+presidents have now the power of voting.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER V.
+
+
+Having remained about a fortnight at Harmony, we made the necessary
+arrangements, and, accompanied by B----, set out for St. Louis, in
+Missouri. We crossed the Wabash into Illinois, and proceeded to Albion,
+the settlement made by the late Mr. Birkbeck.
+
+Albion is at present a small insignificant town surrounded by prairies, on
+which there are several handsome farms. Messrs. Birkbeck and Flowers
+purchased large tracts of land in this neighbourhood, for the purpose of
+re-selling or letting it to English or other emigrants. These two
+gentlemen were of the class called in England, "gentlemen farmers," and
+brought with them from that country very large capitals; a considerable
+portion of which, in addition to the money laid out on purchase, they
+expended on improvements. They are both now dead--their property has
+entirely passed into other hands, and the members of their families who
+still remain in this country are in comparative indigence.
+
+The most inveterate hostility was manifested by the backwoods people
+towards those settlers, and the series of outrages and annoyances to which
+they were exposed, contributed not a little to shorten their days. It at
+length became notorious that neither Birkbeck nor Flowers could obtain
+redress for any grievance whatever, unless by appealing to the superior
+courts,--as both the magistrates and jurors were exclusively of the class
+of the offenders; and the "Supreme Court of the United States" declared,
+that the verdicts of the juries, and the decisions of the magistrates
+were, in many cases, so much at variance with the evidences, that they
+were disgraceful to the country. A son of the latter gentleman, a lad
+about fourteen years old, was killed in open day whilst walking in his
+father's garden, by a blow of an axe handle, which was flung at him across
+the fence. The evidence was clear against the murderer, and yet he was
+acquitted. Whilst I was at Vandalia, I saw in a list of lands for sale,
+amongst other lots to be sold for taxes, one of Mr. Flowers'. The fate of
+these gentlemen and their families should be a sufficient warning to
+persons of their class in England, not to attempt settling _in the
+backwoods_; or if they have that idea, to leave aside altogether refined
+notions, and never to bring with them either the feelings or the habits of
+a _gentleman farmer_. The whole secret and cause of this _guerre à mort_,
+declared by the backwoodsmen against Messrs. Birkbeck and Flowers, was,
+that when they first settled upon the prairies, they attempted to act the
+_patron_ and the _benefactor_, and considered themselves _entitled_ to
+some respect. Now a west-country American would rather die like a cock on
+a dunghill, than be patronized after the English fashion; he is not
+accustomed to receive benefactions, and cannot conceive that any man would
+voluntarily confer favours on him, without expecting something in return,
+either in the shape of labour, or goods;--and as to respect, that has
+totally disappeared from his code since "the Declaration."
+
+Mr. Birkbeck was called "Emperor of the Prairies;" and notwithstanding the
+hostility of his neighbours, he seems to have been much respected in the
+other parts of Illinois, as he was chosen secretary of state; and in that
+character he died, in 1825. He at last devoted himself entirely to gaining
+political influence, seeing that it was the duty of every man in a free
+country to be a politician, and that he who "takes no interest in
+political affairs," must be a bad man, or must want capacity to act in the
+common occurrences of life.
+
+From Albion we proceeded towards the Little Wabash; but had not got many
+miles from that town, when an accident occurred which delayed us some
+time. We were driving along through a wood of scrub-oak, or barren, when
+our carriage, coming in contact with a stump that lay concealed beneath
+high grass, was pitched into a rut--it was upset--and before we could
+recover ourselves, away went the horse dashing through the wood, leaving
+the hind wheels and body of the vehicle behind. He took the path we had
+passed over, and fortunately halted at the next corn-field. We repaired
+the damage in a temporary manner, and again set forward.
+
+After having crossed the Little Wabash, we had to pass through three miles
+of swamp frequently above our ancles in the mire, for the horse could
+scarcely drag the empty waggon. We at length came out on "Hardgrove's
+prairie." The prospect which here presented itself was extremely
+gratifying to our eyes. Since I had left the little prairie in the
+Wyandot reserve, I had been buried in eternal forests; and,
+notwithstanding all the efforts one may make to rally one's spirits, still
+the heart of a European sickens at the sameness of the scene, and he
+cannot get rid of the idea of imprisonment, where the visible horizon is
+never more distant than five or six hundred yards. Yet this is the delight
+of an Indian or a backwoodsman, and the gloomy ferocity that characterizes
+these people is evidently engendered by the surrounding scenery, and may
+be considered as indigenous to the forest. Hardgrove's is perhaps the
+handsomest prairie in Illinois--before us lay a rich green undulating
+meadow, and on either side, clusters of trees, interspersed through this
+vast plain in beautiful irregularity--the waving of the high grass, and
+the distant groves rearing their heads just above the horizontal line,
+like the first glimpse of land to the weary navigator, formed a
+combination of ideas peculiar to the scene which lay before us.
+
+With the exception of one or two miles of wood, occasionally, the whole of
+our journey through Illinois lay over prairie ground, and the roads were
+so level, that without any extraordinary exertion on the part of our
+horse, he carried us from thirty to forty miles a day.
+
+We next crossed the "grand prairie," passing over the Indian trace.
+Although this is by no means so picturesque as Hardgrove's, yet the
+boundless prospect that is presented on first entering this prairie is far
+the more sublime--the ideas expand, and the imagination is carried far
+beyond the limits of the eye. We saw some deer scouring the plains, and
+several "prairie wolves" skulking in the high grass--this animal is
+sometimes destructive to sheep. The size is about that of our fox. Most
+farmers keep three or four hounds, which are trained to combat the wolf.
+The training is thus--a dead wolf is first shewn to a young dog, when he
+is set on to tear it; the next process is to muzzle a live wolf, and tie
+him to a stake, when the dog of course kills him; the last is, setting the
+dog on an unmuzzled wolf, which has been tied to a stake, with his legs
+shackled. The dog being thus accustomed to be always the victor, never
+fails to attack and kill the prairie wolf whenever he meets him.
+
+Within thirteen miles of Carlisle, we stopped at an inn, a solitary
+establishment, the nearest habitation being more than six miles distant.
+The landlord, Mr. Elliot, told us that he was unable to accommodate us
+with beds, as his house was already quite full; but that if we could
+dispense with beds, he would provide us with every thing else. Having no
+alternative, we of course acceded to his proposal. There was then holding
+at his house what is termed an "inn fair," or the day after the wedding.
+The marriage takes place at the house of the bride's father, and the day
+following a party is given by the bridegroom, when he takes home his wife.
+The people here assembled had an extremely healthy appearance, and some
+of the girls were decidedly handsome, having, with fine florid
+complexions, regular features and good teeth. The landlord and his sons
+were very civil, as indeed were all the company there assembled.
+
+A great many respectable English yeomen have at different periods settled
+in Illinois, which has contributed not a little to improve the state of
+society; for the inhabitants of these prairies, generally speaking, are
+much more agreeable than those of most other parts of the western country.
+
+When the night was tolerably far advanced, the decks were cleared, and
+three feather beds were placed _seriatem_ on the floor, on which a general
+scramble took place for berths--we wrapped ourselves in our cloaks, and
+lay seventeen in a bed until morning, when we arose, and went out to "have
+a wash." The practice at all inns and boarding-houses throughout the
+western country, excepting at those in the more considerable towns, is to
+perform ablutions gregariously, under one of the porches, either before or
+behind the house--thus attendance is avoided, and the interior is kept
+free from all manner of pollutions.
+
+An abundance of good stone-coal is found all through this state, of which
+I saw several specimens. Were it not for this circumstance, the difficulty
+of procuring wood for fuel and fencing, would more than counterbalance the
+advantages, in other respects, presented to settlers on the prairies.
+
+The average crops of Indian corn are about fifty bushels per acre, which
+when planted, they seldom plough or hoe more than once. In the bottom
+lands of Indiana and Ohio, from seventy to eighty bushels per acre is
+commonly produced, but with twice the quantity of labour and attention,
+independent of the trouble of clearing. There are two denominations of
+prairie: the upland, and the river or bottom prairie; the latter is more
+fertile than the former, having a greater body of alluvion, yet there are
+many of the upland prairies extremely rich, particularly those in the
+neighbourhood of the Wabash. The depth of the vegetable soil on some of
+those plains, has been found frequently to be from eighteen to twenty
+feet, but the ordinary depth is more commonly under five. The upland
+prairies are much more extensive than the river prairies, and are
+invariably free from intermittent fever--an exemption, which to emigrants
+must be of the utmost importance.
+
+Previous to our leaving Elliott's inn, we witnessed a chase of two wolves,
+which had the boldness to come to the sheep-pens close to the house.
+Unfortunately the dogs were not at hand, and the wolves escaped among the
+high grass. Mr. Elliott positively refused accepting of any compensation
+in lieu of our supper and lodging: he said he considered our lodging a
+thing not to be spoken of; and as to our supper--which by-the-by was a
+capital one--he had invited us to that. We merely paid for the horse,
+thanked him for his hospitality, and departed. During our journey through
+Indiana we had invariably to use persuasion, in order to induce the
+farmers to take money for either milk or fruit; and whenever we stayed at
+a farm-house, we never paid more than what appeared to be barely
+sufficient to cover the actual cost of what we consumed.
+
+At Carlisle, a village containing about a dozen houses, we got our vehicle
+repaired. We required a new shaft: the smith walked deliberately out--cast
+his eye on a rail of the fence close by, and in half an hour he had
+finished a capital shaft of white oak.
+
+The next town we came to was Lebanon, and we determined on staying there
+that evening, in order to witness a revival. They have no regular places
+of worship on the prairies, and the inhabitants are therefore subject to
+the incursions of itinerant preachers, who migrate annually, in swarms,
+from the more thickly settled districts. There appeared to be a great
+lack of zeal among the denizens of Lebanon, as notwithstanding the
+energetic exhortations of the preachers, and their fulminating
+denunciations against backsliders, they failed in exciting much
+enthusiasm. The meeting ended, as is customary on such occasions, by a
+collection for the preachers, who set out on horseback, next morning, to
+levy contributions on another body of the natives.
+
+From Lebanon we proceeded across a chain of hills, and came in on a
+beautiful plain, called the "American bottom." Some of those hills were
+clear to the summit, while others were crowned with rich foliage. Before
+us, to the extreme right, were six or seven tumuli, or "Indian mounds;"
+and to the left, and immediately in front, lay a handsome wood. From the
+hills to the river is about six miles; and this space appears evidently to
+have been a lake at some former period, previous to the Mississippi's
+flowing through its present deep channel. Several stagnant ponds lay by
+our road; sufficient indications of the presence of disease, which this
+place has the character of producing in abundance. The beauty of the spot,
+and the fertility of the soil, have, notwithstanding, induced several
+English families to settle here. Their houses are built of brick, and
+their gardens and farms are laid out and fenced tastefully.
+
+After traversing the wood, we at length came in sight of the Mississippi,
+which is here about three quarters of a mile broad. There is a steam
+ferry-boat stationed at this point, (opposite St. Louis), the construction
+of which is rather singular. It is built nearly square, having in the
+middle a house containing two spacious apartments, and on each side decks,
+on which stand horses, oxen, waggons and carriages of every description.
+
+St. Louis is built on a bluff bank. The _principal_ streets rise one above
+the other, running parallel with the river; the houses are mostly built of
+stone, the bank being entirely composed of that material, the walls
+whitewashed, and the roofs covered with tin: from the opposite side it
+presents a very gay appearance. The ascent from the water's edge to the
+back of the town is considerable, but regular. The streets intersect each
+other at right angles, as do those of most American towns. They are much
+too narrow, having been laid down and built on from a plan designed by the
+Spanish commandant, previous to the Missouri territory becoming part of
+the United States. The population is estimated at six thousand, composed
+of Creole-French, Irish, and Americans.
+
+St. Louis must, at some future period, become decidedly the most important
+town in the western country, from its local and relative situation. It is
+seated on the most favourable point below the mouths of two noble rivers,
+the Missouri and the Illinois,[5] having at its back an immense tract of
+fertile country, and open and easy communication with the finest parts of
+the western and north-western territories. These advantages, added to the
+constant and uninterrupted intercourse which it enjoys with the southern
+ports, must ultimately make St. Louis a town of wealth and magnitude.
+
+We visited General Clarke's museum, which chiefly contains Indian costumes
+and implements of war, with some minerals and fossils, a portion of which
+he collected while on the expedition to the Rocky mountains with Lewis;
+and also, two sods of good black turf, from the bogs of Allen, in Ireland.
+A sight which was quite exhilarating, and reminded me so strongly of the
+fine odour which exhales from the products of illicit distillation, that
+guagers and potteen, like the phantoms of hallucination, were presenting
+themselves continually to my imagination for the remainder of that day.
+
+General Clarke is a tall, robust, grey-headed old man, with beetle-brows,
+and uncouthly aspect: his countenance is expressive of anything but
+intelligence; and his celebrity is said to have been gained principally by
+his having been the _companion_ of Lewis to the Rocky mountains.
+
+The country around St. Louis is principally prairie, and the soil
+luxuriant. There are many excellent farms, and some fine herds of cattle,
+in the neighbourhood: yet the supply of produce seems to be insufficient,
+as considerable quantities are imported annually from Louisville and
+Cincinnati. The principal lots of ground in and near the town are at the
+disposal of some five or six individuals, who, having thus created a
+monopoly, keep up the price. This, added to the little inducement held out
+to farming people in a slave state, where no man can work himself without
+losing _caste_, has mainly contributed to retard the increase of
+population and prosperity in the neighbourhood of St. Louis.
+
+There are two fur companies established here. The expeditions depart early
+in spring, and generally return late in autumn. This trade is very
+profitable. A person who is at present at the head of one of those
+companies, was five years ago a bankrupt, and is now considered wealthy.
+He bears the character of being a regular Yankee; and if the never giving
+a direct answer to a plain question constitutes a Yankee, he is one most
+decidedly. We had some intention of crossing to Santa Fé, in New Mexico,
+and we accordingly waited on him for the purpose of making some inquiries
+relative to the departure of the caravans; but to any of the plain
+questions we asked, we could not get a satisfactory answer,--at length,
+becoming tired of hedge-fighting, we departed, with quite as much
+information as we had before the interview.
+
+A trapping expedition is being fitted out for the Rocky mountains, on an
+extensive scale. The number of persons intended to be employed on this, is
+about two hundred. Teams for the transportation of merchandize and
+luggage are preparing, which is an accommodation never enjoyed before by
+trappers, as pack-horses have always hitherto been substituted. These
+waggons may also be found useful as _barricades_, in case of an attack
+from the Indians. The expedition will be absent two or three years.
+
+A trade with Santa Fé is also established. In the Spanish country the
+traders receive, in exchange for dry goods and merchandize of every
+description, specie, principally; which makes money much more plentiful
+here than in any other town in the western country.
+
+The caravans generally strike away, near the head waters of the Arkansas
+and Red rivers, to the south-west, close to the foot of the Rocky
+mountains--travelling above a thousand miles through the Indian country
+before they reach the Mexican boundary. These journeys are long and
+tedious, and require men of nerve and muscle to undertake them; the
+morasses and rivers which they have to cross--the extensive prairies and
+savannahs they have to traverse, and the dense forests to penetrate, are
+sufficient to subdue any but iron constitutions.
+
+The countries west of the Mississippi are likely to be greatly enriched by
+the trade with Mexico; as, in addition to the vast quantities of valuable
+merchandize procured from that country, specie to a very large amount is
+put in circulation, which to a new country is of incalculable advantage.
+The party which lately returned to Fayette in Missouri, brought 200,000
+dollars in specie.
+
+The lead-mines of Galena and Potosi inundate St. Louis with that metal.
+The latter mines are extensive, consisting of forty in number, and are
+situated near the head of Big-river, which flows into the Merrimac: a
+water transportation is thus effected to the Mississippi, eighteen miles
+below St. Louis. This, however, is only in the spring and fall, as at
+other seasons the Merrimac is not navigable for common-sized boats, at a
+greater distance than fifty miles from its mouth. The Merrimac is upwards
+of 200 miles in length, and at its outlet it is about 200 yards in
+breadth.
+
+The principal buildings in St. Louis are, the government-house, the
+theatre, the bank of the United States, and three or four Catholic and
+Protestant churches. The Catholic is the prevalent religion. There are two
+newspapers published here. Cafés, billiard tables, dancing houses, &c.,
+are in abundance.
+
+The inhabitants of St. Louis more resemble Europeans in their manners and
+habits than any other people I met with in the west. The more wealthy
+people generally spend some time in New Orleans every year, which makes
+them much more sociable, and much less _brusque_ than their neighbours.
+
+We visited Florissant, a French village, containing a convent and a young
+ladies' seminary. The country about this place pleased us much. We passed
+many fine farms--through open woodlands, which have much the appearance
+of domains--and across large tracts of sumach, the leaves of which at this
+season are no longer green, but have assumed a rich crimson hue. The
+Indians use these leaves as provision for the pipe.
+
+We stayed for eight days at a small village on the banks of the
+Mississippi, about six miles below St. Louis, and four above Jefferson
+barracks, called Carondalet, or, _en badinage, "vide poche."_ The
+inhabitants are nearly all Creole-French, and speak a miserable _patois_.
+The same love of pleasure which, with bravery, characterizes the French
+people in Europe, also distinguishes their descendants in Carondalet.
+Every Saturday night _les garçons et les filles_ meet to dance quadrilles.
+The girls dance well, and on these occasions they dress tastefully. These
+villagers live well, dress well, and dance well, but have
+miserable-looking habitations; the house of a Frenchman being always a
+secondary consideration. At one of those balls I observed a very pretty
+girl surrounded by gay young Frenchmen, with whom she was flirting in a
+style that would not have disgraced a belle from the _Faubourg St. Denis_,
+and turning to my neighbour, I asked him who she was; he replied, "Elle
+s'appelle Louise Constant, monsieur,--c'est la rose de village." Could a
+peasant of any other nation have expressed himself so prettily, or have
+been gallant with such a grace?
+
+Accompanied by our landlord, we visited Jefferson barracks. The officer to
+whom we had an introduction not being _chez-lui_ at that time, we were
+introduced to some other officers by our host, who united in his single
+person the triple capacity of squire, or magistrate, newspaper proprietor,
+and tavern-keeper. The officers, as may be expected, are men from every
+quarter of the Union, whose manners necessarily vary and partake of the
+character of their several states.
+
+The barracks stand on the bluffs of the Mississippi, and, with the river's
+bank, they form a parallelogram--the buildings are on three sides, and
+the fourth opens to the river; the descent from the extremity of the area
+to the water's edge is planted with trees, and the whole has a picturesque
+effect. These buildings have been almost entirely erected by the soldiers,
+who are compelled to work from morning till night at every kind of
+laborious employment. This arrangement has saved the state much money; yet
+the propriety of employing soldiers altogether in this manner is very
+questionable. Desertions are frequent, and the punishment hitherto
+inflicted for that crime has been flogging; but Jackson declares now that
+shooting must be resorted to. The soldiers are obliged to be servilely
+respectful to the officers, _pulling off_ the undress cap at their
+approach. This species of discipline may be pronounced inconsistent with
+the institutions of the country, yet when we come to consider the
+materials of which an _American_ regular regiment is composed, we shall
+find the difficulty of producing order and regularity in such a body much
+greater than at first view might be apprehended. In this country any man
+who wishes to work may employ himself profitably, consequently all those
+who sell their liberty by enlisting must be the very dregs of society--men
+without either character or industry--drunkards, thieves, and culprits who
+by flight have escaped the penitentiary, and enlisted under the impression
+that the life of a soldier was one of idleness; in which they have been
+most grievously mistaken. When we take these facts into consideration, the
+difficulty of managing a set of such fellows will appear more than a
+little. Yet unquestionably there are individuals among the officers whose
+bearing is calculated to inspire any thing but that respect which they so
+scrupulously exact, and without which they declare it would be impossible
+to command. The drillings take place on Sundays.
+
+Near Carondalet we visited two slave-holders, who employed slaves in
+agriculture; which practice experience has shewn in every instance to be
+unprofitable. One had thirteen; and yet every thing about his house rather
+indicated poverty than affluence. These slaves lived in a hut, among the
+outhouses, about twelve feet square--men, women, and children; and in
+every respect were fully as miserable and degraded in condition as the
+unfortunate wretches who reside in the lanes and alleys of St. Giles' and
+Spitalfields, with this exception, that _they_ were well fed. The other
+slave-holder, brother of the former, lived much in the same manner;--but
+it is necessary to observe that both these persons were hunters, and that
+hunters have nothing good in their houses but dogs and venison.
+
+T---- having gone on a hunting excursion with our host, and some of his
+friends, B---- and I drove the ladies to the plantation of the latter
+gentleman. He had a farm on the bluffs, which was broken and irregular, as
+is always the case in those situations. Large holes, called "sink-holes,"
+are numerous along these banks; the shape of them is precisely that of an
+inverted cone, through the apex of which the water sinks, and works its
+way into the river. Cedar trees grow on the rocks, and the scenery is in
+many places extremely grand. Wild-geese congregate in multitudes on the
+islands in the Mississippi, and at night send forth the most wild and
+piercing cries.
+
+Our hostess was one of those sylvan Amazons who could handle any thing,
+from the hunting-knife to the ponderous axe; and she dressed in the true
+sylph-like costume of the backwoods. Her _robe_, which appeared to be the
+only garment with which she encumbered herself, fitted her, as they say at
+sea, "like a purser's shirt on a handspike," and looked for all the world
+like an inverted sack, with appropriate apertures cut for head and arms;
+she wore shoes, in compliment to her guests--her hair hung about her
+shoulders in true Indian style; and altogether she was a genuine sample
+of backwoods' civilization. We were placed in a good bed--the state-bed of
+course--and as we lay, paid our devotions to Urania, and contemplated the
+beauties of the starry firmament, through an aperture in the roof which
+would have admitted a jackass.
+
+The proprietor assured us that his slaves produced him no more than the
+bare interest of the money invested in their purchase, and that he was a
+slave-holder not from choice, but because it was the prevailing practice
+of the country. He said he had two handsome Mulatto girls hired out at the
+barracks for six dollars per month each.
+
+In St. Louis there were seven Indian chiefs, hostages from the Ioway
+nation. Their features were handsome--with one exception, they had all
+aquiline noses--they were tall and finely proportioned, and altogether as
+fine-looking fellows as I ever saw. The colour of these Indians was much
+redder than that of any others I had seen; their heads were shaven, with
+the exception of a small stripe, extending from the centre of the
+crown back to the _organ of philoprogenitiveness_--the gallant
+scalping-lock--which was decorated with feathers so as somewhat to
+resemble the crest of a Greek or Roman helmet. Their bodies were uncovered
+from the waist upwards, except when they wore blankets, a modern
+substitute for the buffalo-robe, which they commonly wore over the left
+shoulder, leaving the right arm and breast bare. The Ioways are a nation
+dwelling in the Missouri territory, and these hostages delivered
+themselves up pending the investigation of an affray that had taken place
+between their people and the backwoodsmen.
+
+The day previous to our departure from St. Louis, the investigation took
+place in the Museum, which is also the office of Indian affairs. There
+were upwards of twenty Indians present, including the hostages. The charge
+made against these unfortunate people and on which they had been obliged
+to come six or seven hundred miles, to stand their trial before _white
+judges_, was, "that the Ioways had come down on the white
+territory--killed the cattle, and attacked the settlers, by which attack
+four citizens lost their lives." The principal chief implicated in the
+affair, named "Big-neck," was called upon for his defence. In the person
+of this man there was nothing remarkable. He advanced into the centre of
+the room, and disengaging his right arm from the blanket, shook hands with
+the judges, and then, in succession, with all the officers of the court.
+This ceremony being ended, he paused, and drawing himself up to his full
+height, extended his arm forward towards the judge, and inclining his head
+a little in the same direction, said, "If I had done that of which my
+white brother accuses me, I would not stand here now. The words of my
+red-headed father (General Clarke) have passed through both my ears, and I
+have remembered them. I am accused, and I am not guilty." (The
+interpreter translated each sentence as it was delivered, and gave it as
+nearly verbatim as possible--observe, the pronoun I is here used
+figuratively, for _his party, and for the tribe_). "I thought I would come
+down to see my red-headed father, to hold a talk with him.--I come across
+the line (boundary)--I see the cattle of my white brother dead--I see the
+Sauk kill them in great numbers--I said that there would be trouble--I
+turn to go to my village--I find I have no provisions--I say, let us go
+down to our white brother, and trade our powder and shot for a little--I
+do so, and again turn upon my tracks, until I reach my village."--He here
+paused, and looking sternly down the room, to where two Sauks sat, pointed
+his finger at them and said, "The Sauk, who always tells lie of me, goes
+to my white brother and says--the Ioway has killed your cattle. When the
+lie (the Sauk) had talked thus to my white brother, he comes, thirty, up
+to my village--we hear our brother is coming--we are glad, and leave our
+cabins to tell him he is welcome--but while I shake hands with my white
+brother," he said, pointing to his forehead, "my white brother shoots me
+through the head--my best chief--three of my young men, a squaw and his[6]
+child. We come from our huts unarmed--even without our blankets--and yet,
+while I shake hands with my white brother, he shoots me down--my best
+chief. My young men within, hear me shot--they rush out--they fire on my
+white brother--he falls, four--my people fly to the woods without their
+rifles." He then stated that four more Indians died in the forest of cold
+and starvation, fearing to return to their villages, and being without
+either blankets or guns. At length returning, and finding that their
+"great chiefs" had delivered themselves up, he came to stand his trial.
+
+The next person called was an old chief, named "Pumpkin," who corroborated
+the testimony of "Big-Neck," but had not been with the party when the
+Sauks were seen killing the cattle. When he came to that part of the story
+where the Indian comes from his wig-wam to meet the white man, he said,
+nearly in the same words used by Big-neck, "While I shake hands with my
+white brother, my white brother shoots me down--my best chief"--he here
+paused, and lifting his eyes above the heads of the auditors, his lip
+curling a little, but resuming again, almost immediately, its natural
+position, he pronounced in a low but distinct guttural tone, the Indian
+word meaning "_my_ son." His eye seemed fixed for a few seconds, and then,
+as if conscious of his weakness, and that the eyes of the great warriors
+of his tribe were upon him, he looked slowly round in a kind of solemn
+triumph, and resumed his tale. There was a strong feeling excited in the
+court by the misfortune of this old man, for the "best chief" of the
+Ioways was his _only_ son. The court asked the chiefs what they thought
+should be done in the matter? They spoke a few words to each other, and
+then answered promptly, that all they required was, that their white
+brother should be brought down also, and confronted with them. The
+prisoners were set at liberty on their parole.
+
+Nothing could have been more respectable than the silence and gravity of
+the Indians during the investigation. The hostages particularly, were
+really imposing in their appearance; an air of solemnity overspread their
+manly countenances, whilst their eyes bespoke that unquailing spirit which
+the habits and vicissitudes of a sylvan life are calculated rather to
+raise than depress. The Indians, when uncontaminated by the vices of the
+whites, are really a fine people; and it is melancholy to reflect that in
+a few centuries the red-man will be known only by name, for his total
+extinction seems almost inevitable.
+
+The upshot of this affair proved that the Indians' statement was correct,
+and a few presents was then thought sufficient to compensate the tribe for
+this most unwarrantable outrage.
+
+The fact of the prisoners being set free on their parole, proves the high
+character they maintain with the whites. An officer who had seen a great
+deal of service on the frontiers, assured me that, from _experience_, he
+had rather fall into the hands of the Indians, than of the
+backwoodsmen.[7] Once, while crossing one of the immense prairies in the
+Missouri territory during the winter season, this gentleman, Mr. R----,
+was seized with rheumatic pains, and unable to proceed. His party,
+consisting only of a few men, had no provisions, nor had they any means of
+taking him with them, being completely exhausted themselves--he was left
+on the plains to die. An old Indian chief, of one of the hostile tribes,
+chanced to find him; he carried him home, and nourished him until he was
+sufficiently recovered to eat with the warriors; when they came to the hut
+of his host, in order as they said to do honour to the unfortunate white
+chief. He remained in their village for two months; at the expiration of
+which time, being sufficiently recovered, they conducted him to the
+frontiers, took their leave, and retired.
+
+Clements Burleigh, who resided thirty years in the United States, says, in
+his "Advice to Emigrants," "It may be objected by some that it is
+dangerous to go to the frontier country, on account of the Indians, wild
+beasts, &c.; this is no more than a scarecrow. Indians in time of peace
+are perfectly inoffensive, and every dependence may be placed on them. If
+you call at their huts, you are invited to partake of what they have--they
+even will divide with you the last morsel they have, if they were starving
+themselves; and while you remain with them you are perfectly safe, as
+every individual of them would lose his life in your defence. This
+unfortunate portion of the human race has not been treated with that
+degree of justice and tenderness which people calling themselves
+Christians ought to have exercised towards them. Their lands have been
+forcibly taken from them in many instances without rendering them a
+compensation; and in their wars with the people of the United States, the
+most shocking cruelties have been exercised towards them. I myself fought
+against them in two campaigns, and was witness to scenes a repetition of
+which would chill the blood, and be only a monument of disgrace to people
+of my own colour.
+
+"Being in the neighbourhood of the Indians during the time of peace, need
+not alarm the emigrant, as the Indian will not be as dangerous to him as
+idle vagabonds that roam the woods and hunt. He has more to dread from
+these people of his own colour than from the Indians."
+
+FOOTNOTES:
+
+[5] Eighteen miles below the mouth of the Missouri, and thirty-six below
+that of the Illinois.
+
+[6] In the Indian tongue there is no distinction of masculine or feminine
+gender, but simply of animate and inanimate beings.
+
+[7] "The freedom of manners, and the uncertainty of life, from the
+various hazards to which it is inevitably exposed, imparts to the
+character of savages a species of liberality, under which are couched
+many benevolent principles; a respect for the aged, and in several
+instances a deference to their equals. The natural coldness of their
+temperament, admits of few outward demonstrations of civility. They are,
+however, affable in their mode, and are ever disposed to show towards
+strangers, and particularly towards the unfortunate, the strongest marks
+of hospitality. A savage will seldom hesitate to share with a
+fellow-creature oppressed by hunger, his last morsel of
+provisions."--Vide _Heriot_, p. 318.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER VI.
+
+
+On our return to Illinois from Missouri, we visited the tumuli in the
+"American bottom," for the purpose of more closely investigating the form
+and disposition of these sepulchral mounds. Their shape is invariably
+hemispherical, or of the _mamelle_ form. Throughout the country, from the
+banks of the Hudson to a considerable distance beyond the Mississippi,
+tumuli, and the remains of earthen fortifications were dispersed. Those of
+the former which have been removed, were found to contain human bones,
+earthen vessels, and utensils composed of alloyed metal; which latter fact
+is worthy of particular notice, as none of the Indians of North America
+are acquainted with the art of alloying. The vessels were generally of
+the form of drinking cups, or ewer-shaped cans, sometimes with a flange to
+admit a cover. One of those which I saw in a museum at Cincinnati, had
+three small knobs at the bottom on which it stood, and I was credibly
+informed that a dissenting clergyman, through the _esprit de métier_,
+undertook to prove from the circumstance, that the people who raised these
+mounds and fortifications must have been acquainted with the doctrine of
+the Trinity. How far the reverend gentleman is correct in his inference, I
+leave for theologians to decide.
+
+The Indians do not claim the mounds as depositories for _their_ dead, but
+are well aware of their containing human bones. They frequently encamp
+near them, and visit them on their journeys, but more as land marks than
+on any other account. They approach them with reverence, as they do all
+burial places, no matter of what people or nation. The Quapaws have a
+tradition, that they were raised "many hundred snows" ago, by a people
+that no longer exists; they say, that in those days game was so plenty
+that very little exertion was necessary to procure a subsistence, and
+there were then no wars--these happy people having then no employment,
+collected, merely for sport, these heaps of earth, which have ever since
+remained, and have subsequently been used by another people, who succeeded
+them, as depositories of their dead. Another tradition is, that they were
+erected by the Indians to protect them from the mammoths, until the Great
+Spirit took pity on his red children, and annihilated these enormous
+elephants. Most of the Indian nations concur in their having been the work
+of a people which had ceased to exist before the red men possessed those
+hunting grounds.
+
+The numerous mounds, fortifications, and burial caverns, and the skeletons
+and mummies, that have been discovered in these catacombs, sufficiently
+establish the fact, that a people altogether different from the present
+aborigines once inhabited these regions. At what period this by-gone
+people flourished still remains a matter of mere conjecture, for to the
+present time no discovery has been made that could lead to any plausible
+supposition.
+
+De Witt Clinton having paid more attention to the antiquities of America
+than any other person of whom I am aware, I shall here insert his
+description of the forts. He says, "These forts were, generally speaking,
+erected on the most commanding ground. The walls, or breastworks, were
+earthen. The ditches were on the exterior of the works. On some of the
+parapets, oak trees were to be seen, which, from the number of concentric
+circles, must have been standing one hundred and fifty, two hundred and
+sixty, and three hundred years; and there were evident indications, not
+only that they had sprung up since the erection of these works, but that
+they were at least a second growth. The trenches were in some cases deep
+and wide, and in others shallow and narrow; and the breastworks varied in
+altitude from three to eight feet. They sometimes had one, and sometimes
+two entrances, as was to be inferred from there being no ditches at those
+places. When the works were protected by a deep ravine, or large stream of
+water, no ditch was to be seen. The areas of these forts varied from two
+to six acres; and the form was in general an irregular ellipsis; in some
+of them, fragments of earthenware and pulverized substances, supposed to
+have been originally human bones, were to be found."
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+"I believe we may confidently pronounce, that all the hypotheses which
+attribute these works to Europeans are incorrect and fanciful: 1st. on
+account of the present number of the works; 2d. on account of their
+antiquity; having from every appearance been erected a long time before
+the discovery of America; and, finally, their form and manner are varient
+from European fortifications, either in ancient or modern times.
+
+"It is equally clear that they were not the work of the Indians. Until the
+Senecas, who are renowned for their national vanity, had seen the
+attention of the Americans attracted to these erections, and had invented
+the fabulous account of which I have spoken, the Indians of the present
+day did not pretend to know any thing about their origin. They were beyond
+the reach of all their traditions, and were lost in the abyss of
+unexplored antiquity."
+
+At the Bull shoals, east branch of White river in Missouri, several feet
+below the surface of the banks, _reliqua_ were found which indicated that
+this spot had formerly been the seat of metalurgical operations. The alloy
+appeared to be lead united with silver. Arrow-heads cut out of flint, and
+pieces of earthen pots which had evidently undergone the action of fire,
+were also found here. The period of time at which these operations were
+carried on in this place must have been very remote, as the present banks
+have been since entirely formed by alluvial deposits.
+
+Near the _Teel-te-nah_ (or dripping-fork), which empties itself into the
+La Platte, and not far distant from its junction with that river, there is
+an extensive cavern, in which are deposited several mummies. Some tribes
+which roam this region have a tradition, that the first Indian ascended
+through this aperture, and settled on the earth's surface.
+
+A few years since, on the Merrimac river in St. Louis county, a number of
+pigmy graves were discovered. The coffins were of stone; and the length of
+the bodies which they contained, judging from that of the coffins, could
+not have been more than from three feet and a half to four feet. The
+graves were numerous, and the skeletons in some instances nearly entire.
+
+In the month of June (1830), a party of gentlemen, whilst in pursuit of
+wild turkeys, in Hart county, Kentucky, discovered, on the top of a small
+knoll, a hole sufficiently large to admit a man's body. Having procured
+lights, they descended, and at the depth of about sixty feet, entered a
+cavern, sixteen or eighteen feet square, apparently hewn out of solid
+rock. The whole chamber was filled with human skeletons, which they
+supposed, _from the size_, to be those of women and children. The place
+was perfectly dry, and the bones were in a state of great preservation.
+They wished to ascertain how deep the bones lay, and dug through them
+between four and seven feet, but found them quite as plentiful as at the
+top: on coming to this depth, dampness appeared, and an unpleasant
+effluvia arising, obliged them to desist. There was no outlet to the
+cavern. A large snake, which appeared to be perfectly docile, passed
+several times round the apartment whilst they remained.
+
+In a museum at New York, I saw one of those mummies alluded to, which
+appeared to be remarkably small; but I had not an opportunity of examining
+it minutely. Those that have been found in the most perfect state of
+preservation were deposited in nitrous caves, and were enveloped in a
+manner so different from the practices of the Indians, that the idea
+cannot be entertained of their being the remains of the ancestors of the
+present race. Flint gives the following description of one of them which
+he carefully examined. He says, "The more the subject of the past races of
+men and animals in this region is investigated, the more perplexed it
+seems to become. The huge bones of the animals indicate them to be vastly
+larger than any that now exist on the earth. All that I have seen and
+heard of the remains of the men, would seem to shew that they were smaller
+than the men of our times. All the bodies that have been found in that
+high state of preservation, in which they were discovered in nitrous
+caves, were considerably smaller than the present ordinary stature of
+men. The two bodies that were found in the vast limestone cavern in
+Tennessee, one of which I saw at Lexington, were neither of them more than
+four feet in height. It seems to me that this must have been nearly the
+height of the living person. The teeth and nails did not seem to indicate
+the shrinking of the flesh from them in the desiccating process by which
+they were preserved. The teeth were separated by considerable intervals;
+and were small, long, white, and sharp, reviving the horrible images of
+nursery tales of ogres' teeth. The hair seemed to have been sandy, or
+inclining to yellow. It is well known that nothing is so uniform in the
+present Indian as his lank black hair. From the pains taken to preserve
+the bodies, and the great labour of making the funeral robes in which they
+were folded, they must have been of the 'blood-royal,' or personages of
+great consideration in their day. The person that I saw, had evidently
+died by a blow on the skull. The blood had coagulated there into a mass,
+of a texture and colour sufficiently marked to shew that it had been
+blood. The envelope of the body was double. Two splendid blankets,
+completely woven with the most beautiful feathers of the wild turkey,
+arranged in regular stripes and compartments, encircled it. The cloth on
+which these feathers were woven, was a kind of linen of neat texture, of
+the same kind with that which is now woven from the fibres of the nettle.
+The body was evidently that of a female of middle age, and I should
+suppose that her majesty weighed, when I saw her, six or eight pounds."
+
+The silly attempts that have been made to establish an oriental origin for
+the North American Indians, have never produced any other conviction in an
+unbiased mind, than that the _facts_ brought forward to support that
+theory existed only in the imaginations of those who advanced them. The
+colour, the form, the manners, habits, and propensities of the Indians,
+all combine to establish that they are a distinct race of human beings,
+and could never have emanated from any people of European, Asiatic, or
+African origin. The notion that climate would be sufficient to produce an
+essential change in the appearance of any number of individuals, cannot
+now be maintained; since from the discovery of America, Europeans,
+Africans, and Indians have inhabited all regions of this vast continent,
+without undergoing the slightest characteristic change from the
+descendants of the original stock, who have remained in their primitive
+locations. The Power that induces the existence of plants and lower
+animals indigenous to the different sections of the earth, seems also to
+induce the existence of a race of men peculiar to the regions in which
+they are found.
+
+The languages of America are radically different from those of the old
+world; and no similitude can be traced between the tongues of the red
+men, and those of any other people hitherto known. Jarvis, in his Paper on
+the Religion of the Indian Tribes of North America, says, "The best
+informed writers agree, that there are, exclusive of the Karalit or
+Esquimaux, three radical languages spoken by the Indians of North America.
+Mr. Heckwelder denominates them the Iroquois, the Lenapé, and the
+Floridian. The Iroquois is spoken by the Six Nations, the Wyandots, or
+Hurons, the Nandowessies, the Assiniboils, and other tribes beyond the St.
+Lawrence. The Lenapé, which is the most widely extended language on this
+side the Mississippi, was spoken by the tribes now extinct, who formerly
+inhabited Nova Scotia and the present state of Maine, the Abenakis,
+Micmacs, Canibas, Openangos, Soccokis, Etchemins, and Souriquois; dialects
+of it are now spoken by the Miamis, the Potawatomies, Missisangoes, and
+Kickapoos; the Eonestogas, Nanticokes, Shawanese, and Mohicans; the
+Algonquins, Knisteneaux, and Chippeways. The Floridian includes the
+languages of the Creeks, or Muskohgees, Chickesaws, Choctaws, Pascagoulas,
+Cherokees, Seminolese, and several other tribes in the southern states and
+Florida. These three languages are primitive; that is to say, are so
+distinct as to have no perceivable affinity. All, therefore, cannot be
+derived from the Hebrew; for it is a contradiction in terms to speak of
+three languages radically different, as derived from a common source.
+Which, then, we may well ask, is to be selected as the posterity of the
+Israelites: the Iroquois, the Lenapé, or the southern Indians?
+
+"Besides, there is one striking peculiarity in the construction of
+American languages, which has no counterpart in the Hebrew. Instead of the
+ordinary division of genders, they divide into animate and inanimate. It
+is impossible to conceive that any nation, in whatever circumstances they
+might be placed, could depart in so remarkable a manner from the idioms of
+their native language."
+
+M. Duponceau, a Frenchman settled at Philadelphia, who is perhaps one of
+the first philologists of the age, concludes a treatise on the same
+subject with the following deductions:
+
+1.--"That the American languages, in general, are rich in words and in
+grammatical forms; and that in their complicated construction, the
+greatest order, method, and regularity prevail."
+
+2.--"That these complicated forms, which I call polysinthetic, appear to
+exist in all those languages, from Greenland to Cape Horn."[8]
+
+3.--"That these forms appear to differ essentially from those of the
+ancient and modern languages of the old hemisphere."
+
+We intended to proceed direct from the banks of the Mississippi to
+Edwardsville, which lies in a north-easterly direction from St. Louis, but
+unfortunately got on the wrong track, an occurrence by no means uncommon
+on the prairies, and by this casualty visited Troy, a _town_ containing
+two houses, namely, a "groggery," and a farm-house, both owned by the one
+person. The only resemblance this trans-Atlantic Ilium can possibly bear
+to the city of the ten years' siege, lies in the difficulty of
+ascertaining its location; for had we not been informed that here stood
+the town of Troy, we should have passed through this, as we did through
+many others, without ever suspecting the fact. Town-making is quite a
+speculation in the western country; and the first thing a man does after
+purchasing a few hundred acres of ground, is to "lay off a town lot:" this
+causes the maps to be studded with little circular dots, and great big
+names attached to them, which would lead one to suppose the population to
+be much greater than it is in reality.
+
+From Edwardsville, we proceeded by Ripley and Greenville, to Vandalia, the
+seat of government of the state.
+
+The prairies had lost much of the brilliant green colour which they
+possessed when we before crossed them, and they were now assuming rather a
+burnt appearance. Towards the close of autumn the grass generally becomes
+so dry as to be easily ignited, which formerly took place by accident, or
+otherwise, almost every year. The sight must be grand indeed; and we
+almost regretted that we were not so fortunate as to be in danger of being
+burnt alive--the sight would be worth the risk. There is a penalty
+attached to the firing of the woods or prairies, as the plantations are
+now becoming too numerously scattered over the country, and property is
+likely to be injured by these conflagrations.
+
+Towards the latter end of October, the season peculiar to this country,
+denominated the "Indian summer," commences, and lasts for some weeks. At
+this period, the atmosphere is suffused with a vapour which at a distance
+has the appearance of smoke, arising as it were from fires in the forest.
+The air is always calm and mild on those days, and the sun's disk assumes
+a broad, reddish appearance.
+
+Vandalia is the capital of Illinois, and is seated on the Kaskaskia river,
+which is only navigable to this point during the "freshets" in autumn and
+spring. The positions of the capitals are chosen for their centrality
+alone, and not with reference to any local advantages they may possess.
+
+Illinois is a free state, and its constitution is but a counterpart of
+those of Ohio and Indiana. The extent is 380 miles from north to south,
+and about 140 miles from east to west: area, 52,000 square miles, or
+33,280,000 acres. The population in 1810, was 12,282; in 1820, 55,211:
+white males, 29,401; white females, 24,387; slaves, 917; militia in 1821,
+2,031. The present population is, according to the last census, 157,575.
+The increase within the last ten years has been nearly 186 per cent.
+
+This state is better circumstanced than any other in the west. It is
+bounded on the north by the north-west territory; on the south by the
+Ohio; on the east by the Wabash and Lake Michigan; and on the west by the
+Mississippi. The Illinois river is navigable at almost all seasons to very
+nearly its head waters; and by means of a very short portage a
+communication is established between it and Lake Michigan. A canal is
+contemplated between this lake and the Wabash.
+
+The heath-hen (_tetrao cupido_), or as it is here called, the
+'Prairie-hen,' abounds on the prairies, particularly in the neighbourhood
+of barrens. This species of grouse, I believe, is not to be met with in
+Europe; nor has it been accurately described by any ornithologist before
+Wilson. One habit of the male of this bird is remarkable: at the season of
+incubation, the cocks assemble every morning just before day-break,
+outside the wood, and there exercise themselves tilting until the sun
+appears, when they disperse. Hunters have not failed to note the
+circumstance, and take advantage of it.
+
+We were frequently amused with the movements of the "Turkey buzzard"
+(_vultur aura_). This bird is well known in the southern and western
+states; and in the former is considered of so much utility that a penalty
+is inflicted on any person who may wantonly destroy it. It is perfectly
+harmless, never attacking even the smallest living animal, and seems
+always to prefer carrion when in a state of putrefaction. Except when
+rising from the ground, the buzzard never flaps its wings, but literally
+floats through the atmosphere, forming graceful ogees.
+
+During our journeys across Illinois, we passed several large bodies of
+settlers on their way to Sangamon and Morgan counties in that state. These
+counties are situated on the Illinois river, and are said to be fertile
+tracts. The mass of those persons were Georgians, Virginians, and
+Kentuckians, whose comparative poverty rendered their residence in slave
+states unpleasant.
+
+Perhaps there is nothing more remarkable in the character of the Americans
+than the indifference with which they leave their old habitations,
+friends, and relations. Each individual is taught to depend mainly on his
+own exertions, and therefore seldom expects or requires extraordinary
+assistance from any man. Attachments seldom exist here beyond that of
+ordinary acquaintances--these are easily found wherever one may go,
+arising from a variety of circumstances connected with their institutions
+and their necessities; and thus one of the great objections that present
+themselves to change with Europeans scarcely exists here. Observe, I apply
+this remark more particularly to the western and southern states; for the
+eastern states being longer settled and more thickly populated, these
+feelings, although they exist, yet they do so in a more modified degree.
+
+The appearance presented by the forests at this season is very
+beautiful--the trees are covered with leaves of almost every colour, from
+bright crimson to nearly snow-white; the admixture of green, brown,
+yellow, scarlet, &c., such as is almost peculiar to an American forest,
+produces a very pleasing combination.
+
+We again reached Albion, and retraced our steps from thence to Harmony,
+where we deposited our friend B----; and after having remained there for a
+few days to refresh ourselves and horse, set forward for Ohio. The weather
+had now become unfavourable, and the frequent rains and high winds were
+shaking the leaves down in myriads--the entire of our journey through
+Indiana being across forests, we were under one constant shower of leaves
+from Harmony to Cincinnati.
+
+One day while getting our horse fed at a tavern in Indiana, the following
+conversation took place between the persons there assembled. We were
+sitting at the door, surrounded by captains, lawyers, and squires, when
+one of the gentlemen demanded of another if there had not been a "gouging
+scrape" at the "Colonel's tavern" the evening before. He replied in the
+affirmative; and after having related the cause of quarrel, and said that
+the lie had been given, he continued, "the judge knocked the major right
+over, and jumped on to him in double quick time--they had it rough and
+tumble for about ten minutes--Lord J---s Alm----y!--as pretty a scrape as
+ever you _see'd_--the judge is a wonderfully lovely fellow." Then followed
+a description of the divers punishments inflicted by the combatants on
+each other--the major had his eye nearly "gouged" out, and the judge his
+chin almost bitten off. During the recital, the whole party was convulsed
+with laughter--in which we joined most heartily.
+
+We of course returned by a different route through Indiana, passing from
+Princeton to Portersville, and from thence through Paoli, Salem, and New
+Lexington, to Madison. The country about Madison is hilly and broken,
+which makes travelling tedious in the extreme. From the mouth of the Big
+Miami to Blue river, a range of hills runs parallel to the Ohio,
+alternately approaching to within a few perches of the river, and receding
+to a distance of one to two miles. Below Blue river the hills disappear,
+and the land becomes level and heavily timbered. There is also another
+range of hills, extending from the Falls of Ohio to the Wabash in a
+south-westerly direction, which are called the "knobs:" to the west of
+these are the "flats;" and from the Wabash to lake Michigan the country is
+champaign.
+
+Indianopolis is the capital of Indiana, and is seated on the White river.
+This state averages about 270 miles from north to south, and 144 miles
+from east to west: area, 37,000 square miles, or 23,680,000 acres. The
+population in 1810, was 24,520--in 1820, 147,178: white males, 79,919;
+white females, 69,107; slaves, 190; militia in 1821, 14,990. The present
+population is 341,582.
+
+Vast quantities of hogs are bred in the state of Indiana, and are suffered
+to rove at large in the forests in search of mast. They are in general
+perfectly wild, and when encountered suddenly bristle up like an enraged
+porcupine. Their legs are long; bodies thin; and tail lengthy and
+straight. I was informed that if one of those animals be wounded, its
+screams will draw an immense concourse of its brethren around it, and that
+the situation of a person under these circumstances, is by no means void
+of danger; as they will not fail to attack him _en masse_. We were once
+very nigh getting into a scrape of this description. Driving along through
+the forest, we had to pass a tract covered with a thick growth of
+brushwood--my friend seeing something stirring among the bushes, drew up,
+and taking it for a deer, called out to me to fire--I stood up in the
+vehicle, and levelled where I saw the movement, when, lo! out starts a
+bristling hog, with a grunt just in time to escape with a whole skin.
+
+One night having been accidently separated from my fellow-traveller, I had
+to stay in a miserable-looking hut close to a creek, the habitation of a
+backwoodsman. This person's appearance was extremely unprepossessing. The
+air of ferocity and wildness which characterized his countenance, added to
+his unhealthy, cadaverous aspect, would have been sufficient in any other
+country to make one feel unpleasant at passing the night alone under his
+roof. He resided in this unhealthy situation, because the land was
+extremely fertile; but stated that every fall some one of his family was
+ill, and none of them enjoyed good health. Now when we summed up the
+consequent loss of labour incident to ill health, the balance of profit
+seemed to be greatly against bottom land, and much in favour of the
+healthful prairies.
+
+The farmers use, almost exclusively, the sugar of the maple (_acer
+saccharinum_) which they manufacture themselves. The space in which a
+number of these trees are found, they call a "sugar camp." The process of
+manufacturing is as follows:--After the first frost, the trees are tapped,
+by perforating the trunk in an ascending direction. A spout of alder is
+inserted in the perforation, and the sap drips through this conduit into a
+trough of wood. The sap is then boiled with a spoonful of slacked lime,
+the white of an egg or two, and about a pint of milk, to every fifteen
+gallons. An ordinary tree commonly gives four pounds of good coarse brown
+sugar, which when refined can be made equal to superior lump sugar.
+
+A great portion of the roads through which we passed were mere horse
+paths, full of stumps, with shrubs entangled across them so thickly, that
+we were often obliged to dismount in order to cut away part of the
+impediment. Large trees which have fallen across the road, frequently
+intercept your passage, and you have no alternative but to lift the wheels
+of the vehicle over them.
+
+As we approached Cincinnati the difficulty of travelling became greatly
+augmented. The rains had cut up the roads into ravines, sometimes full
+three feet in depth, which, added to the clayey nature of the soil,
+completely exhausted the horse, and rendered him incapable of proceeding
+faster than a slow walk, even with the empty carriage.
+
+There are a number of Baptists residing at Cincinnati, who frequently
+entertain the inhabitants with public baptisms in the Ohio river. At one
+of those ceremonies, about this time, rather a ludicrous occurrence took
+place. The baptizing preacher stands up to his middle in the water, and
+the person to be baptized is led to him by another preacher. On this
+occasion the officiating clergyman was rather a slight man, and the lady
+to be baptized was extremely large and corpulent--he took her by the
+hands to perform the immersion, but notwithstanding his most strenuous
+exertions, he was thrown off his centre. She finding him yield, held
+still harder, until they both sowsed completely under the water, where
+they lay floundering and struggling for some time, amidst the shouts and
+laughter of the multitude assembled on shore. At length their brethren
+extricated them from this perilous situation.
+
+FOOTNOTES:
+
+[8] M. Duponceau adduces the following examples: "In the Arancanian
+language the word '_idnancloclavin_' means 'I do not wish to eat with
+him.' There is a similar verb in the Delaware tongue--'_n'schingiwipona_,'
+which means 'I do not like to eat with him.' To which may be added another
+example in the latter tongue--'_machtitschwanne_,'--this must be
+translated 'a cluster of islands with channels every way, so that it is
+in no place shut up, or impassable for craft.' This term is applied to the
+islands in the bay of New York."
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER VII.
+
+
+The weather having become cold and disagreeable towards the latter end of
+December, I set out for New Orleans. The larger class of steam-boats lay
+then at Shippingsport, immediately below the falls of Ohio, the river not
+being sufficiently high to enable them to pass over those rapids. Boats
+drawing from nineteen to twenty-six inches water can almost at all seasons
+ply on the Upper Ohio, and during the periods that the large boats are
+detained below the Falls, they are constantly employed in transporting
+produce, intended for the markets on the Mississippi, to Louisville, from
+whence it is drayed round to Shippingsport and re-shipped. Flat-boats are
+also employed for this purpose, and they are preferred, as they pass over
+the Falls, and thus land-carriage is avoided.
+
+Louisville is the chief town of Jefferson county, in Kentucky, and at
+present it is estimated to contain about 12,000 inhabitants, including
+slaves and free people of colour. The store-keepers here are more wealthy
+than those of Cincinnati, and their manners less disagreeable. The
+inhabitants of the latter town being mostly from the New England states,
+have in their dealings and manners that dry shrewdness which is the true
+Yankee characteristic. There are also located in Cincinnati some Irish
+pedlars, who have by all manner of means acquired wealth, and are now the
+"biggest bugs"[9] in the place.
+
+The public buildings of Louisville are few, and the streets are laid out
+in the usual style, crossing each other at right angles. It contains a
+few good brick dwelling-houses, and a number of excellent hack-carriages
+are stationed near the steam-boat landing. A canal round the Falls, from
+Beargrass-creek to Shippingsport, is being constructed, which will enable
+steam-boats of the largest tonnage to pass through; and thus it will open
+an uninterrupted intercourse between the Upper and Lower Ohio, and the
+Mississippi. The length of this canal is about two and a half miles, and
+the original estimate was 200,000 dollars, but this sum has been found
+insufficient.
+
+At Louisville I took a berth on board a boat for New Orleans. The
+steam-boats on the Mississippi are large, and splendidly appointed; the
+interior has more the appearance of a well fitted up dining-room than the
+cabin of a boat. The charge is twenty-five dollars, for which you are
+found in every thing except liquors. Meats, fowls, vegetables, fruits,
+preserves, &c., are served in abundance, and of the very best quality.
+Here you may see tradesmen, "nigger traders," farmers, "congress men,"
+captains, generals, and judges, all seated at the same table, in true
+republican simplicity. There is no appearance of awkwardness in the
+behaviour of the humblest person you see seated at those tables; and
+indeed their general good conduct is remarkable--I mean when contrasted
+with that of the same class in England. The truth is, the tradesman here
+finds himself of some importance in the scale of society, and endeavours
+to show that he is fully qualified to be seated at the same table, _en
+passant_, with the most wealthy citizen. No doubt the higher classes have
+some of that high polish rubbed off by these occasional contacts with
+their less-civilized fellow citizens; but the humbler classes decidedly
+gain what _they_ lose. All dress well, and are _American_ gentlemen.
+
+The Ohio is formed by the junction of the Alleghany and Monongahela rivers
+at Pittsburg, that town being seated in the fork--its breadth there, is
+between eight and nine hundred yards. From the mouths of those two rivers
+it narrows and deepens for some distance; but afterwards, from the
+accession of the many tributary streams by which it is supplied, gradually
+becomes wider and deeper, until it empties itself into the Mississippi.
+The length of the Ohio, following its meanders, is about 950 miles, and it
+may be said to be navigable almost the entire year, as the water must be
+unusually low when the smaller steam-boats cannot ply to Pittsburg. The
+character of this river is somewhat peculiar. But for the improvements on
+the banks, when you have seen six or eight miles of this stream, you are
+acquainted with the remainder as far as the Falls--that is to say, any
+variety that may be in the scenery will occur in any given six miles from
+Pittsburg to that point. Below Louisville there are one or two rocky
+bluffs, and the face of the country is somewhat different. The channel of
+the Upper Ohio lies between hills, which frequently approach the
+_mamélle_ form, and are covered with a heavy growth of timber. Where the
+hills or bluffs do not rise immediately from the river, but recede some
+distance, the space between the river and the hill is called bottom land,
+from the circumstance of its being overflown annually; or having at some
+former period formed part of the river's bed, which is indicated by the
+nature of the soil. The bluffs and bottoms invariably alternate; and when
+you have bluffs on one side, you are sure to have bottom on the other. The
+windings are extremely uniform, with few exceptions, curving in a
+serpentine form in so regular a manner, that the Indians always calculated
+the distance by the number of bends.
+
+"The Falls" are improperly so termed, as this obstruction is nothing more
+than a gradual descent for a distance of about a mile and a half, where
+the water, forcing its way over a rugged rocky bottom, presents the
+appearance of a rapid. Below this the country is of various
+aspects--hills, bottom-land, and high rocky bluffs; and towards the mouth,
+cotton-wood trees, (_populus angulata_), and cane brakes, are interspersed
+along the banks. The junction of these two noble rivers, the Ohio and
+Mississippi, is really a splendid sight--the scenery is picturesque, and
+the water at the point of union is fully two miles broad.
+
+The Mississippi[10] is in length, from its head waters to the _balize_ in
+the gulf of Mexico, about two thousand three hundred miles, and flows
+through an immense variety of country. The section through which it
+passes, before its junction with the Missouri, is represented as being
+elegantly diversified with woodlands, prairies, and rich bottoms, and the
+banks are lined with a luxuriant growth of plants and flowers. Before
+reaching the Missouri, the water of the Mississippi is perfectly limpid;
+but, from the mouth of that river it becomes turgid and muddy--flows
+through a flat, inundated country, and seems more like an immense flood,
+than an old and deep-channelled river. As far as great things can be
+compared to small, it much resembles, within its banks, the Rhone when
+flooded, as it sweeps through the department of Vaucluse, after its
+junction with the Saone.
+
+From St. Louis to New Orleans, a distance of twelve hundred miles, there
+are but six elevated points--the four Chickesaw bluffs, the Iron banks,
+and the Walnut hills. Numerous islands are interspersed through this
+river; and from the mouth of the Ohio, tall cotton-wood trees and
+cane-brakes grow in immense quantities along the banks; the latter, being
+evergreens, have a pleasing effect in the winter season. The windings of
+the Mississippi are, like those of the Ohio, constant, but not so
+serpentine, and some of them are of immense magnitude. You traverse every
+point of the compass in your passage up or down: for example, there is a
+bend near _Bayou Placquamine_, the length of which by the water is upwards
+of sixty miles, and from one point to the other across the distance is but
+three.
+
+The town of "Baton Rouge" is situated about 190 miles above New Orleans,
+and contains a small garrison;--the esplanade runs down to the
+water's-edge, and the whole has a pretty effect. Here the sugar
+plantations commence, and the face of the country is again changed--you
+find yourself in the regions of the south. For a distance of from
+half-a-mile to two miles back, at each side, the land is planted with
+sugar-canes, and highly cultivated. The planters' houses are tastefully
+built, surrounded by gardens full of orange-trees, flowers, and
+evergreens, presenting the idea of perpetual spring, which here is indeed
+the case. The winters are seldom more severe than a mild spring in
+England. I first came in on this region at night, at the season of
+planting, when the cast or used canes are burned in heaps on each
+plantation. The dark turgid waters--the distant fires, surrounded by
+clouds of white smoke ascending in winding columns to the skies--the
+stillness of the night, interrupted only by the occasional cry of the
+pelican or the crane, and the monotonous thumping of the steam-boat
+paddles, formed a strange combination; and had the days of witches and
+warlocks not long since passed away, one would have sworn that these
+gentry were performing incantations over the mystic cauldrons, casting
+"seven bullets," or "raising spirits from the vasty deep."
+
+The Mississippi is in few places more than from half-a-mile to a mile
+wide; and were one to judge of its magnitude by its breadth alone, a very
+erroneous estimate would be formed. It is only by contemplating the many
+vast rivers which empty themselves into the Mississippi that you can form
+a correct idea of the immense volume of water that flows through this
+channel into the Gulf of Mexico. Many of its larger tributary streams
+have the appearance of being as great as itself--the depth alone
+indicating the superiority of this mighty river over every other in
+America; and, considering its length, perhaps over any other in the world.
+
+The great valley of the Mississippi extends, in length, from the Gulf of
+Mexico to a distance of nearly 3000 miles; and is in breadth, from the
+base of the Alleghanies to the foot of the Rocky mountains, about 2,500
+miles. The soil is composed of alluvial deposits, to a depth of from
+twenty to fifty feet; and I have myself seen, near New Orleans, trees
+lying in the horizontal position six or seven feet below the surface. This
+valley has been frequently visited by earthquakes, which have sometimes
+changed part of the channel of the river, and at others formed lakes.
+Those which occurred between the years 1811 and 1813, did serious injury,
+particularly in the neighbourhood of New Madrid, near the west bank,
+below the mouth of the Ohio. At several points the bank is sunk eight or
+ten feet below the surface of the adjacent ground, with the trees
+remaining upright as before.
+
+New Orleans is seated on the south-east bank of the Mississippi; and,
+following the sinuosities of the current, about 109 miles from the Gulf of
+Mexico. The river takes here a right-angular sweep, and the city proper is
+built on the exterior point of the bend, the _fauxbourgs_ extending at
+each side along the banks. At high water the river rises three feet above
+any part of the city; consequently, were it not for levées that have been
+constructed here, and also along the banks of the river for more than a
+hundred miles, at both sides, above and below, the whole country would be
+periodically inundated. The fall from the levée to Bayou St. John, which
+communicates with _Lac Pontchartrain_, is about thirty feet, and the
+distance one mile. This fall is certainly inconsiderable; but I apprehend
+that it would be sufficient to drain the streets effectually, if proper
+attention were directed to that object.
+
+The city extends only half-a-mile back, and, including the _fauxbourgs_,
+about two miles along the river. The streets, being only partially paved,
+can never be perfectly cleaned, and stagnant water remains in the kennels
+at all seasons; this and the exhalations from the swamps in warm weather,
+produce that pestilential scourge with which the place is annually
+afflicted. The mortality here last season (the autumn of 1829) has been
+variously stated in the public prints at from five to seven thousand, who
+died of the yellow fever in the space of about ten weeks. This statement,
+however, is erroneous; as, from information which I received from the
+sexton of the American grave-yard, and from the number of fresh graves
+which I saw there, I am inclined to think that the total amount falls
+short of 2500, out of a resident population of less than 40,000 souls.
+About 700 were buried in the American grave-yard, and perhaps double that
+number in that of the French.
+
+The port of New Orleans presents the most extraordinary medley of any port
+in the world. Craft of every possible variety may be seen moored along the
+levées, and the markets and adjacent streets crowded with people of almost
+every nation in Europe, Africa, and America, who create a frightful
+confusion of tongues. A particular part of the quay is appropriated to
+each description of craft, and a penalty is enforced for any deviation
+from port regulations. The upper part is occupied with flat-boats, arks,
+peeroges, rafts, keel-boats, canoes, and steam-boats; and below these are
+stationed schooners, cutters, brigs, ships, &c., in regular succession.
+The levée is almost constantly filled with merchandize; and the scene of
+bustle and confusion which is exhibited here during the early part of the
+day, fully proves the large amount of commercial intercourse which this
+city enjoys.
+
+When Louisiana was ceded to the United States, in 1803, Orleans was then
+entirely occupied by Creole-French and Spanish, consequently the majority
+of the habitations and public buildings, are in the French and Spanish
+style. The cathedral, which presents a handsome façade of about seventy
+feet, the town-hall, and courts, occupy one side of the _place
+d'armes,_--these, with the American theatre, the _théâtre d'Orleans,_ or
+French opera house, the hospital, and three or four churches, are the only
+public buildings in the city. The houses are all flat-roofed, and those in
+the back streets and fauxbourgs are seldom more than one story high; the
+practice of building houses in this manner was pursued in order to avoid
+injury from tornadoes, which occasionally visit the valley of the
+Mississippi; latterly they have not been of frequent occurrence, although
+when they do arise, they are extremely violent. The town of Urbana, in
+Ohio, this year (1830) has been nearly destroyed by a visitation of this
+nature.
+
+Pharo-banks, roulette-tables, and gambling of all kinds, are publicly
+permitted; but the proprietor of each establishment pays a tax of 5000
+dollars per annum. The _théâtre d'Orleans_ on Sunday evenings, is
+generally crowded with beautiful French women. Every night during the
+winter season there is a _bal paré et masqué_, and occasionally "quadroon
+balls," which are attended by the young men of the city and their _chères
+amies_ quadroons, who are decidedly the finest women in the country, being
+well formed, and graceful in their carriage. The Louisianians are
+prohibited by law from marrying with quadroons, although this _caste_ is
+free, and many of them have been educated in France, and are highly
+accomplished.
+
+In the south, slavery exists in its most unqualified condition, wanting
+those milder modifications which serve to dress and decorate the person of
+this ugly fiend. Here may be seen hundreds of animals of our own genus
+exposed in the public bazaars for sale, and examined with as much care,
+and precisely in the same manner, as we examine horses. In some of the
+slave states the law prohibits the separation of families, but this
+prohibition is little attended to, as the slave has no possibility of
+coming in contact with any dispensers of justice but the magistrates of
+the state, who, being slave-holders themselves, instead of redressing his
+grievances, would be more likely to order him a lashing, for presuming to
+complain. Many melancholy instances occur here, which clearly illustrate
+the evils of slavery and its demoralizing influence on the human
+character. The arguments against slavery are deduced from self-evident
+propositions, and must carry conviction to every well organized mind; yet
+from their application being of too general a character, they seldom
+interest the feelings, and in the end leave less impression than the
+simple statement of a particular occurrence. During my stay, a Doctor
+---- came down the river with thirty slaves, among which were an old negro
+and negress, each between sixty and seventy years of age; this unfortunate
+old woman had borne twenty-one children, all of whom had been at different
+times sold in the Orleans market, and carried into other states, and into
+distant parts of Louisiana. The Doctor said, in order to induce her to
+leave home quietly, that he was bringing her into Louisiana for the
+purpose of placing her with some of her children--"and now," says the old
+negress, "aldo I suckle my massa at dis breast, yet now he sell me to
+sugar planter, after he sell all my children away from me." This gentleman
+was a strict Methodist, or "saint," and is, I was informed, much esteemed
+by the preachers of that persuasion, because of his liberal contributions
+to their support.
+
+Negresses, when young and likely, are often employed as wet nurses by
+white people, as also by either the planter or his friends, to administer
+to their sensual desires--this frequently as a matter of speculation, for
+if the offspring, a mulatto, be a handsome female, from 800 to 1000
+dollars may be obtained for her in the Orleans market.[11] It is an
+occurrence of no uncommon nature to see the Christian father sell his own
+daughter, and the brother his own sister, by the same father. Slaves do
+not marry, but pair at discretion; and the more children they produce, the
+better for their masters.
+
+On the Levée at New Orleans, are constantly exhibited specimens of the
+white man's humanity, in the persons of runaway slaves. When such an
+unfortunate negro is retaken, a log is chained to one of his legs, and
+round his neck is placed an iron collar, from which project three sharp
+prongs more than a foot in length each.
+
+The evils of this infernal system are beginning to re-act upon the
+Christians, who are latterly kept in a constant state of alarm, fearing
+the number and disposition of the blacks, which threaten at no far distant
+period to overwhelm the south with some dreadful calamity.[12] Three
+incendiary fires took place at Orleans, during the month I remained in
+that city, by which several thousand bales of cotton were consumed. The
+condition of the slaves on the sugar or rice plantations, is truly
+wretched. They are ill-fed, ill-clad, and worked in gangs under the
+superintendence of a driver, who is armed with a long whip, which he uses
+at discretion; and it is a fact, well known to persons who have visited
+slave countries, that punishments are more frequently inflicted to gratify
+the private pique or caprice of the driver, than for crime or neglect of
+duty.
+
+In the agricultural states, slave labour is found to be altogether
+unproductive, which causes this market to be inundated:--within the last
+two months, 5000 negros have been sold here. The state legislature has
+just passed a law, regulating the introduction of slaves, and commanding
+all free people of colour, who were not residents previous to 1825, to
+quit Louisiana in the space of six months. Georgia has enacted a law to
+the same effect, with the addition of making penal, _the teaching of
+people of colour to read or write_. The liberty of the press is by no
+means tolerated in the slave states, as both judges and juries will always
+decide according to the local laws, although totally at variance with the
+constitution. W.L. Garrison, of Baltimore, one of the editors of a
+publication entitled, "The Genius of Universal Emancipation," is now
+suffering fine and imprisonment for an alleged libel, at the suit of a
+slavite; and a law has been passed by the legislature of Louisiana,
+suppressing the Orleans journal called "The Liberal." This latter act is
+not only contrary to the constitution of the United States, but also in
+direct opposition to the constitution of Louisiana.[13]
+
+The free states in their own defence have been obliged to prohibit people
+of colour settling within their boundaries. Where then can the unfortunate
+African find a retreat? He must not stay in this country, and he cannot
+go to Africa; and although the British government are encouraging the
+settlement of negros in the Canadas, yet latterly, neither the Canadians
+nor the Americans like that project. The most probable finale to this
+drama will be, that the Christians must at their own expense ship them to
+Liberia (for Hayti is inundated), and there throw them on barren shores to
+die of starvation, or to be massacred by the savages!
+
+Miss Wright lately passed through New Orleans with thirty negros which she
+had manumitted, and was then going to establish them at Hayti. These
+slaves had been purchased at reduced prices, from persons friendly to
+their emancipation, and were kept by Miss Wright until their labour,
+allowing them a fair remuneration, amounted to the prime outlay.
+
+Were it not for the danger that might be apprehended from the congregation
+of large bodies of negros in particular states or districts, their
+liberation would be attended with little inconvenience _to the public_,
+for their labour might be as effectually secured, and made quite as
+profitable, under a system of well-regulated emancipation. We need only
+refer to England for a case in point:--after the conquest and total
+subjugation of the people of that country by the ancestors of the
+nobility, the gallant Normans, the feudal system was introduced, and
+remained in full vigour for some centuries. But, as the country became
+more populous, and the attendance of the knights and barons in parliament
+became more frequent and necessary, we find villanage gradually fall into
+disrepute. The last laws regulating this species of slavery were passed in
+the reign of Henry VII; and towards the end of Elizabeth's reign, although
+the statutes remained unrepealed, as they do still, yet there were no
+persons in the state to whom the laws applied. It cannot be denied that
+the labour of the poor English is as effectually secured under the present
+arrangements, as it could possibly be under the system of villanage.
+
+I look upon slaves as public securities; and I am of opinion, that a
+legislature's enacting laws for their emancipation, is as flagrant a piece
+of injustice as would be the cancelling of the public debt. Slave-holders
+are only share-holders; and philanthropists should never talk of
+liberating slaves, more than cancelling public securities, without being
+prepared to indemnify those persons who unfortunately have their capital
+invested in this species of property.
+
+As many varieties of countenance are to be found among blacks as among
+whites. There are Africans in this city who have really handsome features,
+and whose proportions are just, with strong and finely rounded limbs. On
+becoming more intimate with the general character of the Africans, I like
+it better: I find they steal, cheat, and hate their masters; and if they
+were to do otherwise I should think them unworthy of liberty--they justly
+consider whatever they take to be but a portion of their own. The policy
+is to keep them as much as possible in utter ignorance--that their
+indignation should therefore develope itself in the most degrading manner,
+is not surprising.
+
+There are two public schools established at New Orleans, which are
+supported out of the fund arising from five gaming-houses, they paying a
+tax of 25,000 dollars per annum. These schools are conducted on the
+Lancastrian system, each having a Principal and a Professor, and the
+studies are divided into daily sessions. The morning session is devoted to
+reading, spelling, arithmetic, and English grammar; commences at nine
+A.M., and closes at one P.M. The evening session commences at three, and
+ends at five o'clock; and is devoted to penmanship, geography, and the
+French language. This is the arrangement of the English primary school,
+which is kept in the Old Poydras House, Poydras-street, in the upper part
+of the city; and is called the Upper Primary School, to distinguish it
+from the French establishment, which is kept in the lower part of the
+city. The English school has an English principal, and a French professor;
+and the French school, a French principal and an English professor. Dr.
+Kinnicutt, the principal of the Upper Primary School, is a gentleman of
+considerable ability, and to his friendly politeness I am indebted for the
+above information.
+
+The ravages of the yellow fever in New Orleans are immense; but I am
+credibly informed that many deaths occur here from neglect after the fever
+has subsided, when the patient is in a totally debilitated condition,
+incapable of affording himself the slightest assistance. Orleans is
+generally crowded with strangers, who are most susceptible to the
+epidemic; and it is decidedly the interest of persons keeping hotels and
+boarding-houses that such guests should give up the ghost, for in that
+case their loose cash falls into the hands of the proprietor. I do not
+mean to insinuate that a knife is passed across the throat of the
+patient; but merely that it is the opinion of physicians, and some of the
+most respectable people of the city, that every _facility_ is afforded
+strangers to die, and that in many cases they actually die of gross
+neglect.
+
+The wealthy merchants live well, keep handsome establishments, and good
+wines. The Sardanapalian motto, "Laugh, sing, dance, and be merry," seems
+to be universally adopted in this "City of the Plague." The planters' and
+merchants' villas immediately in the vicinity are extremely tasteful, and
+are surrounded by large parterres filled with plantain, banana, palm,
+orange, and rose trees. On the whole, were it not for its unhealthiness,
+Orleans would be a most desirable residence, and the largest city in the
+United States, as it is most decidedly the best circumstanced in a
+commercial point of view.
+
+The question of the purchase of Texas from the Mexican government has been
+widely mooted throughout the country, and in the slave districts it has
+many violent partizans. The acquisition of this immense tract of fertile
+country would give an undue preponderance to the slave states, and this
+circumstance alone has prevented its purchase from being universally
+approved of; for the grasping policy of the American system seems to
+animate both congress and legislatures in all their acts. The Americans
+commenced their operations in true Yankee style. The first settlement made
+was by a person named Austin, under a large grant from the Mexican
+government. Then "pioneers," under the denomination of "explorers," began
+gradually to take possession of the country, and carry on commercial
+negotiations without the assent of the government. This was followed by
+the public prints taking up the question, and setting forth the immense
+value of the country, and the consequent advantages that would arise to
+the United States from its acquisition. The settlers excited movements,
+and caused discontent and dissatisfaction among the legitimate owners; and
+at their instigation, insurrections of the Indians took place, which
+greatly embarrassed the government. At this stage of the affair, Mr.
+Poinsett, the American minister, commenced his diplomatic manoeuvres in
+the city of Mexico--fomenting disaffection, encouraging parties, and
+otherwise interfering in the internal concerns of the country. He appears,
+however, to have carried his intrigues beyond the bounds of discretion, as
+they were discovered; and he consequently became so obnoxious to the
+government and people of Mexico, that Jackson found it necessary to recall
+him, and send a Colonel Butler in his stead, commissioned to offer
+5,000,000 dollars for the province of Texas.
+
+Mr. Poinsett's object in acting as he did, was that he might embarrass the
+government, and take advantage of some favourable crisis to drive a
+profitable bargain; or that, during some convulsion that would be likely
+to lead to a change, the expiring executive would be glad to grasp at his
+offer, and thereby a claim would be established on the country, which the
+United States would not readily relinquish. The policy of the British
+government suffering the Mexican republic to be bullied out of this
+province would be very questionable indeed, as the North Americans command
+at present quite enough of the Gulf of Mexico, and their overweening
+inclination to acquire extent of territory would render their proximity to
+the West Indian Islands rather dangerous; however, it would be much more
+advantageous to have the Mexicans as neighbours than the people of the
+United States.
+
+The Mexican secretary of state, Don Lucas Alaman, in a very able and
+elaborate report made to Congress, sets forth the ambitious designs of the
+American government, and the proceedings of its agents with regard to this
+province. He also recommends salutary measures for the purpose of
+retaining possession and preventing further encroachments; which the
+Congress seems to have taken into serious consideration, as very important
+resolutions have been adopted. The Congress has decreed, that hereafter
+the Texas is to be governed as a colony; and, except by special commission
+of the Governor, the immigration of persons _from the United States_, is
+strictly forbidden. So much at present for the efforts of the Americans to
+get possession of the Texas; and if the British government be alive to the
+interests of the nation, they never shall;--for, entertaining the hostile
+feelings that they do towards the British empire, their closer connexion
+with the West Indies would certainly not be desirable.
+
+FOOTNOTES:
+
+[9] A "big bug," is a great man, in the phraseology of the western
+country.
+
+[10] In the Indian tongue, _Meschacebe_--"old father of waters."
+
+[11] I have been informed by a gentleman who has resided in the English
+West Indian Islands, that he has known instances there of highly educated
+white women, young and unmarried, making black mothers suckle puppy
+lap-dogs for them.
+
+[12] Previous to my leaving America, a most extensive and well-organised
+conspiracy was discovered at Charleston, and several of the conspirators
+were executed. The whole black population of that town were to have risen
+on a certain day, and put their oppressors to death.
+
+[13]
+
+Extract from "The Liberal" of 19th March, 1830:--
+
+    "Constitution des Etats unis.
+
+    "Art. 1 er. des Amendments.
+
+    "Le Congrés n'aura pas le droit de faire aucune loi pour abreger
+    la liberté de la parole ou de la presse, &c.
+
+    "Constitution de L'Etat de la Louisiane.
+
+    "Art. 6, v. 21.
+
+    "La presse sera libre à tous ceux qui entreprendront d'examiner les
+    procédures de la legislature ou aucune branche du gouvernement; et
+    aucune loi sera jamais faite pour abreger ses droits, &c.
+
+    "Loi faite par la legislature de l'Etat de la Louisiane.
+
+    "Acte pour punir les crime y mentionés et pour d'autre objets.
+
+    "Sect. 1ére. Il et décrété, &c. Que quiconque écrira, imprimera,
+    publiera, ou répandra toute pièce ayant une tendance à produire du
+    mécontentement parmi la population de couleur libre, ou de
+    l'insubordination parmi les esclaves de cet Etat, sera sur
+    conviction du fait, pardevant toute cour de juridiction competante
+    condamné à l'emprisonnement aux travaux forcés pour la vie ou à la
+    peine de mort, à la discretion de la cour!!!!
+
+    "Sec. 2. Il est de plus décrété, que quiconque se servira
+    d'expressions dans un discours public prononcé au barreau, au barre
+    des Judges, au Théâtre, en chaire, ou dans tout lieu quelconque;
+    quiconque se servira d'expressions dans des conversations ou des
+    discours particulars, ou fera usage des signes ou fera des actions
+    ayant une tendance à produire du mecontentement parmi la
+    population de couleur libre ou à exciter à l'insubordination parmi
+    les esclaves de cet Etat; quiconque donnera sciemment la main à
+    apporter dans cet Etat aucun papier, brochure ou livre ayant la
+    même tendance que dessus, sera, sur conviction, pardevant toute
+    cour de juridiction competante, condamné à l'emprisonnement aux
+    travaux forcés pour un terme qui ne sera pas moindre de trois ans
+    et qui n'excédera pas vingt un ans, ou à la peine de mort à la
+    discretion de la cour!!!!
+
+    "Sec. 3. Il est de plus décrété, que seront considerées comme
+    illegales toute réunions de negres; mulatres ou autres personnes
+    de couleur libre dans le temples, les ecoles ou autres lieux pour
+    y apprendre à lire ou à ecrire: et les personnes qui se réuniront
+    ainsi; sur conviction du fait, pardevant toute cour de juridiction
+    competente, seront emprisonneés pour un terme qui ne sera pas
+    moindre d'un mois et qui n'excédera pas douze mois, à la
+    discrétion!!!!
+
+    "Sec. 4. Il est de plus décrété, que toute personne dans cet état
+    qui enseignera, permettra qu'on enseigne ou fera enseigner à lire
+    ou à ecrire à un esclave quelconque, sera, sur conviction du fait,
+    pardevant toute cour de juridiction competante, condamné à un
+    imprisonnement qui ne sera pas moindre d'un mois et n'excédera pas
+    douze mois!!!!"
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+    From the remarks of the same journal of the 23rd March, it would
+    appear that the third and fourth sections of this most enlightened
+    and Christian act have been rejected, as being "_too bad_."
+
+    "Nous avons lu la publication officielle de l'acte intitulé: 'acte
+    pour empêcher l'introduction des personnes de couleur libres dans
+    cet Etat, et pour d'autres objets.' Il est trop long pour que nous
+    puissons le publier, nous en donnons l'extrait suivant.
+
+    "1. Toute personne de couleur libre, qui sera rentreé dans cet
+    état depuis 1825, sera forcée d'en sortir.
+
+    "2. Aucune personne, de couleur libre, ne pourra à l'avenir
+    s'introduire dans cet état sous aucun pretexte quelconque.
+
+    "3. Le blanc qui aura fait circuler des écrits tendant à troubler
+    le repos public, ou censurant les actes de la legislature
+    concernant les esclaves ou les personnes de couleur libres, sera
+    puni rigoureusement.
+
+    "4. L'émancipation des esclaves est soumise à quantité de
+    formalités.
+
+    "Tous les noirs, grieffes et mulatres, au premier degré, libres,
+    sont obligés de se faire enregistrer au bureau du maire, à Nelle.
+    Orleans, ou chez les judges de paroisse dans les autres parties de
+    l'état.
+
+    "Nous voyons avec joie, que la partie du bill tendant à empêcher
+    l'instruction des personnes de couleur, a été rejeté."
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER VIII.
+
+
+Having spent a month in Orleans and the neighbouring plantations, I took
+my leave and departed for Louisville. The steam-boat in which I ascended
+the river was of the largest description, and had then on board between
+fifty and sixty cabin passengers, and nearly four hundred deck passengers.
+The former paid thirty dollars, and the latter I believe six, on this
+occasion. The deckers were provided only with an unfurnished berth. The
+steam-boats, on their passage up and down the rivers, stop at nearly all
+the towns of importance, both for the purpose of landing and receiving
+freight, which enabled me to visit most of the settlements along the
+banks.
+
+For several hundred miles from New Orleans, the trees, particularly those
+in the cypress swamps, are covered with tellandsea, or Spanish moss, which
+hangs down from the branches so thickly, as to give a most gloomy aspect
+to the forest. It is found to be a good substitute for horse hair, and is
+universally used by upholsterers for stuffing mattresses, cushions, &c.
+The process of preparing it is very simple: being taken from the trees, it
+is placed in water for a few days, until the outer pellicle has rotted; it
+is then dried, when a long fibre resembling horse hair is obtained.
+
+Natchez, in the state of Mississippi, is about 300 miles above Orleans,
+and is the largest and wealthiest town on the river, from that city up to
+St. Louis. It stands on bluffs, perhaps 300 feet above the water at
+ordinary periods. It contains nearly 4000 inhabitants, and is decidedly
+the prettiest town for its dimensions in the United States. Natchez,
+although upwards of 400 miles from the sea, is considered a port; and a
+grant of 1500 dollars was made by congress for the purpose of erecting a
+light-house; the building has been raised, and stands there, a monument of
+useless expenditure. There are a number of "groggeries," stores, and other
+habitations, at the base of the bluffs, for the accommodation of
+flat-boatmen, which form a distinct town, and the place is called, in
+contradistinction to the city above, Natchez-under-the-hill. Swarms of
+unfortunate females, of every shade of colour, may be seen here sporting
+with the river navigators, and this little spot presents one continued
+scene of gaming, swearing, and rioting, from morning till night.
+
+The ravages of the yellow fever in this town are always greater in
+proportion to the population than at New Orleans; and it is a remarkable
+fact, that frequently when the fever is raging with violence in the city
+on the hill, the inhabitants below are entirely free from it. In addition
+to the exhalations from the exposed part of the river's bed, there are
+others of a still more pestilential character, which arise from stagnant
+pools at the foot of the hill. The miasmata appear to ascend until they
+reach the level of the town above, where the atmosphere being less dense,
+and perhaps precisely of their own specific gravity, they float, and
+commingle with it.
+
+The country from Baton-rouge to Vicksburg, on the walnut hills, is almost
+entirely devoted to the cultivation of cotton, the soil and climate being
+found particularly congenial to the growth of that plant. The great trade
+of Natchez is in this article. The investment of capital in the
+cultivation of cotton is extremely profitable, and a plantation
+judiciously managed seldom fails of producing an income, in a few years,
+amounting to the original outlay. Each slave is estimated to produce from
+250 to 300 dollars per annum; but of course from this are to be deducted
+the _wear and tear_ of the slave, and the casualties incident to human
+life. On sugar plantations the profit is much more on each individual; but
+the risk is greater, and the deaths are generally calculated at one-third
+of the gang in ten years: this is the cause why slaves _on sugar
+plantations_ are so miserably fed and clad, for their being rendered less
+wretched would not make them less susceptible to the epidemic. Each acre
+of well-cultivated land produces from one and a half to two bales of
+cotton, and even the first year the produce will cover the expenses. A
+planter may commence with 10,000 or 12,000 dollars, and calculate on
+certain success; but with less capital, he must struggle hard to attain
+the desired object. A sugar plantation cannot be properly conducted with
+less than 25,000 or 30,000 dollars, and the first year produces no return.
+The cotton begins to ripen in the month of October--the buds open, and the
+flowers appear. A slave can gather from 100 to 150 lbs. a day. Rice and
+tobacco are also grown in the neighbourhood of the cotton lands, but of
+course the produce is inferior to that of the West Indies.
+
+Occasionally, along the banks of the Mississippi, you see here and there
+the solitary habitation of a wood-cutter. Immense piles of wood are placed
+on the edge of the bank, for the supply of steam-boats, and perhaps a
+small corn patch may be close to the house; this however is not commonly
+the case, as the inhabitants depend on flat-boats for provisions. The
+dwelling is the rudest kind of log-house, and the outside is sometimes
+decorated with the skins of deer, bears, and other animals, hung up to
+dry. Those people are commonly afflicted with fever and ague; and I have
+seen many, particularly females, who had immense swellings or
+protuberances on their stomachs, which they denominate "ague-cakes." The
+Mississippi wood-cutters scrape together "considerable of dollars," but
+they pay dearly for it in health, and are totally cut off from the
+frequent frolics, political discussions, and elections; which last,
+especially, are a great source of amusement to the Americans, and tend to
+keep up that spirit of patriotism and nationality for which they are so
+distinguished. The excitement produced by these elections prevents the
+people falling into that ale-drinking stupidity, which characterizes the
+low English.
+
+The "freshets" in the Mississippi are always accompanied with an immense
+quantity of "drift-wood," which is swept away from the banks of the
+Missouri and Ohio; and the navigation is never totally devoid of danger,
+from the quantity of trees which settle down on the bottom of the river.
+Those trees which stand perpendicularly in the river, are called
+"planters;" those which take hold by the roots, but lie obliquely with the
+current, yielding to its pressure, appearing and disappearing alternately,
+are termed "sawyers;" and those which lie immovably fixed, in the same
+position as the "sawyers," are denominated "snags." Many boats have been
+stove in by "snags" and "sawyers," and sunk with all the passengers. At
+present there is a snag steam-boat stationed on the Mississippi, which has
+almost entirely cleared it of these obstructions. This boat consists of
+two hulks, with solid beams of timber uniting the bows. It has a most
+powerful engine; and when the crew discover a snag, which always lies with
+the stream, and is known by the ripple on the water, they run down below
+it for some distance in order to gather head-way--the boat is then run at
+it full tilt, and seldom fails of breaking off the projecting branch close
+to the trunk.
+
+We arrived, a fine morning about nine o'clock, at Memphis in Tennessee,
+and lay-to to put out freight. We had just sat down, and were regaling
+ourselves with a substantial breakfast, when one of the boilers burst,
+with an explosion that resembled the report of a cannon. The change was
+sudden and terrific. Between fifty and sixty persons were killed and
+wounded. The scene was the most horrifying that can be imagined--the dead
+were shattered to pieces, covering the decks with blood; and the dying
+suffered the most excruciating tortures, being scalded from head to foot.
+Many died within the hour; whilst others lingered until evening, shrieking
+in the most piteous manner. The persons assembled on shore displayed the
+most disgusting want of sympathy; and most of the gentlemen passengers
+took care to secure their luggage before rendering any assistance to the
+unfortunates. A medical gentleman, who happened to be on board (a Doctor
+Otis, I think, from Carolina), was an exception. This gentleman--and
+gentleman he really was, in every respect--attended with the most
+unremitting care on all the wounded without distinction. A collection was
+made by the cabin passengers, for the surviving sufferers. The wretch who
+furnished oil on the occasion, hearing of the collection, had the
+conscience to make a charge of sixty dollars, when the quantity furnished
+could not possibly have amounted to a third of that sum.
+
+The boiler recoiled, cutting away part of the bow, and the explosion blew
+up the pilot's deck, which rendered the vessel totally unfit for service.
+I remained three days at Memphis, and visited the neighbouring farms and
+plantations. Several parties of Chickesaw Indians were here, trading their
+deer and other skins with the townspeople. This tribe has a reservation
+about fifty miles back, and pursues agriculture to a considerable extent.
+After the massacre and extermination of the Natchez Indians, by the
+Christians of Louisiana, the few survivors received an asylum from the
+Chickesaws; who, notwithstanding the heavy vengeance with which they were
+threatened, could never be induced to give up the few unhappy "children of
+the Sun" who confided in their honour and generosity: the fugitives
+amalgamated with their protectors, and the Natchez are extinct.
+
+Some of the Indians here assembled, indulged immoderately in the use of
+ardent spirits, with which they were copiously supplied by the white
+people. During these drinking fits, there is always one at least of the
+party who remains sober, in order to secure the knives, &c. Hence the
+Americans derive the cant phrase of "doing the sober Indian," which they
+apply to any one of a company who will not _drink fairly_. One of the
+Indians had a pony which he wished to sell, having occasion for some
+articles, and his skins not bringing him as much as he had anticipated. A
+townsman demanded the price. The Indian put up both his hands, intimating
+that he would take ten dollars. The pony was worth double the sum; but the
+spirit of barter would not permit the white man to purchase without
+reducing the price: he offered the Indian five dollars. The Indian was
+evidently indignant, but only gave a nod of dissent. After some
+hesitation, the buyer, finding that he could not reduce the price, said
+he would give the ten dollars. The Indian then held up his fingers, and
+counted fifteen. The buyer demurred at the advance; but the Indian was
+inexorable, and at length intimated that he would not trade at all. Such
+is the character of the Aborigines--they never calculate on _your_
+necessities, but only on their own; and when they are in want of money,
+demand the lowest possible price for the article they may wish to
+sell--but if they see you want to take further advantage of them, they
+invariably raise the price or refuse to traffic.
+
+Hunting in Tennessee is commonly practised on horseback, with dogs. When
+the party comes upon a deer-track, it separates, and hunters are posted,
+at intervals of about a furlong, on the path which the deer when started
+is calculated to take. Two or three persons then set forward with the
+dogs, always coming up against the wind, and start the deer, when the
+sentinels at the different points fire at him as he passes, until he is
+brought down. Another mode is to hunt by torch-light, without dogs. In
+this case, slaves carry torches before the party; the light of which so
+amazes the deer, that he stands gazing in the brushwood. The glare of his
+eyes is always sufficient to direct the attention of the rifleman, who
+levels his piece at the space between them, and seldom fails of hitting
+him fairly in the head.
+
+A boat at length arrived from New Orleans, bound for Nashville in
+Tennessee, and I secured a passage to Smithland, at the mouth of the
+Cumberland river, where I had a double opportunity of getting to
+Louisville, as boats from St. Louis, as well as those from Orleans, stop
+at that point. The day following my arrival a boat came up, and I
+proceeded to Louisville. On board, whilst I was amusing myself forward, I
+was accosted by a deck-passenger, whom I recollected to have seen at
+Harmony. He told me, amongst other things, that a Mr. O----, who resided
+there, had been elected captain, and added that he was "a considerable
+clever fellow," and the best captain they ever had. I inquired what
+peculiar qualification in their new officer led him to that conclusion.
+Expecting to hear of his superior knowledge in military tactics, I was
+astounded when he seriously informed me, in answer, that on a late
+occasion (I believe it was the anniversary of the birth of Washington),
+after parade, he ordered them into a "groggery," "not to take a _little_
+of something to drink, but by J---s to drink as much as they had a mind
+to." It must be observed, that this individual I had seen but once, in the
+streets of Harmony, and then he was in a state of inebriation. Another
+anecdote, of a similar character, was related to me by an Englishman
+relative to his own election to the post of brigadier-general. The
+candidate opposed to him had served in the late war, and in his address to
+the electors boasted not a little of the circumstance, and concluded by
+stating that he was "ready to lead them to a cannon's mouth when
+necessary." This my friend the General thought a poser; but, however, he
+determined on trying what virtue there was--not in stones, like the "old
+man" with the "young saucebox,"--but in a much more potent article,
+whisky; so, after having stated that although he had not served, yet he
+was as ready to serve against "the hired assassins of England"--this is
+the term by which the Americans designate our troops--as his opponent, he
+concluded by saying, "Boys, Mr. ---- has told you that he is ready to lead
+you to a cannon's mouth--now _I_ don't wish you any such misfortune as
+getting the contents of a cannon in your bowels, but if necessary,
+perhaps, I'd lead you as far as he would; however, men, the short and the
+long of it is, instead of leading you to the mouth of a cannon, I'll lead
+you this instant to the mouth of a barrel of whisky." This was enough--the
+electors shouted, roared, laughed, and drank--and elected my friend
+Brigadier-general. Brigadier-general! what must this man's relatives in
+England think, when they hear that he is a Brigadier-general in the
+American army? Yet he is a very respectable man (an auctioneer), and much
+superior to many west country Generals. The fact is, a dollar's-worth of
+whisky and a little Irish wit would go as far in electioneering as five
+pounds would go in England; and were it not for the protection afforded by
+the ballot, the Americans would be fully as corrupt, and would exercise
+the franchise as little in accordance with the public interest, as the
+English and Irish who enjoy the freedom of corporate towns. Some aspirants
+to office in the New England states, about the time of the last
+presidential election, tried the system of bribing, and obtained promises
+fully sufficient to insure their returns; but on counting the votes, it
+was found that more than one half the persons who were paid to vote _for_,
+must have voted _against_ the person who had bribed them. It is needless
+to say this experiment was not repeated. The Americans thought it bad
+enough to take the bribe, but justly concluded that it would be a double
+crime to adhere to the agreement. The bravo who takes a purse to commit an
+assassination, and does not do that for which he has been paid; is an
+angel, when compared to the villain who performs his contract.
+
+The usual time occupied in a voyage from Orleans to Louisville is from ten
+to twelve days, and boats have performed it in the surprisingly short
+space of eight days. The spur that commerce has received from the
+introduction of steam-boats on the western waters, can only be appreciated
+by comparing the former means of communication with the present. Previous
+to 1812, the navigation of the Upper Ohio was carried on by means of about
+150 small barges, averaging between thirty and forty tons burden, and the
+time consumed in ascending from the Falls to Pittsburg was a full month.
+On the Lower Ohio and the Mississippi there were about twenty barges,
+which averaged 100 tons burden, and more than three months was occupied in
+ascending from Orleans to Louisville with West India produce, the crew
+being obliged to poll or _cordelle_ the whole distance. Seldom more than
+one voyage to Orleans and back was made within the year. In 1817, a
+steam-boat arrived at Louisville from New Orleans in twenty-five days, and
+a public dinner and other rejoicings celebrated the event. From that
+period until 1827, the time consumed in this voyage gradually diminished,
+and in that year a boat from New Orleans entered the port of Louisville in
+eight days and two hours. There are at present on the waters of the Ohio
+and Mississippi, 323 boats, the aggregate burden of which is 56,000 tons,
+the greater proportion measuring from 250 to 500 tons.
+
+The people of this country cannot properly be compared with the
+inhabitants of England; their institutions are different, and their
+habits and manners must necessarily be dissimilar. Indeed, they are as
+unlike the English as any people can well be, and many of them with whom I
+conversed, denied flatly the descent. They contend that they are a
+compound of the best blood of Europe, and that the language of England
+only prevailed because, _originally_, the majority of settlers were
+English; but that since the revolution, the whole number of emigrants from
+the other countries of Europe greatly exceeded the proportion from England
+and Ireland. Their temperament, organisation, and independent spirit,
+appear to bear them out in this assertion.
+
+In England we have all the grades and conditions of society that are to be
+found in America, with the addition of two others, the highest and the
+lowest classes. There is no extensive class here equivalent to the English
+or Irish labourer; neither is there any class whose manners are stamped
+with that high polish and urbanity which characterises the aristocracy of
+England. The term _gentleman_ is used here in a very different sense from
+that in which it is applied in Europe--it means simply, well-behaved
+citizen. All classes of society claim it--from the purveyor of old bones,
+up to the planter; and I have myself heard a bar-keeper in a tavern and a
+stage driver, whilst quarrelling, seriously accuse each other of being "no
+gentleman." The only class who live on the labour of others, and without
+their own personal exertions, are the planters in the south. There are
+certainly many persons who derive very considerable revenues from houses;
+but they must be very few, if any, who have ample incomes from land, and
+this only in the immediate vicinity of the largest and oldest cities.
+
+English novels have very extensive circulation here, which certainly is of
+no service to the country, as it induces the wives and daughters of
+American gentlemen (alias, shopkeepers) to ape gentility. In Louisville,
+Cincinnati, and all the other towns of the west, the women have
+established circles of society. You will frequently be amused by seeing a
+lady, the wife of a dry-goods store-keeper, look most contemptuously at
+the mention of another's name, whose husband pursues precisely the same
+occupation, but on a less extensive scale, and observe, that "she only
+belongs to the third circle of society." This species of embryo
+aristocracy--or as Socrates would, call it, Plutocracy--is based on wealth
+alone, and is decidedly the most contemptible of any. There are,
+notwithstanding, very many well-bred, if not highly polished, women in the
+country; and on the whole, the manners of the women are much more
+agreeable than those of the men.
+
+Early in the summer I proceeded to Maysville, in Kentucky, which lies
+about 220 miles above the Falls. Here having to visit a gentlemen in the
+interior, I hired a chaise, for which I paid about two shillings British
+per mile.
+
+A great deal of excitement was just then produced among the inhabitants of
+Maysville by the president's having put his veto on the bill, passed by
+congress, granting loans to the "Maysville and Lexington road," and the
+"Louisville canal" companies. The Kentuckians were in high dudgeon, and
+denounced Jackson as an enemy to internal improvement, and to the western
+states. It would appear that the friends of Adams and Clay, had determined
+to place Jackson in a dilemma which would involve his character, either as
+a friend to internal improvement or an enemy to lavish expenditure.
+Accordingly, they passed an unusual number of bills, appropriating money
+to the clearing of creeks, building of bridges, and making of canals and
+turnpike roads; the amount of which, instead of leaving a surplus of ten
+millions to the liquidation of the national debt, would not only have
+totally exhausted the treasury, but have actually exceeded by 20,000,000
+dollars the revenue of the current year. This manoeuvre was timely
+discovered by the administration, and the president consequently refused
+to put his signature to those bills, amongst a number of others. He
+refused on two grounds. The first was, that although it had been the
+practice of congress to grant sums of money for the purpose of making
+roads and perfecting other works, which only benefited one or two states;
+yet that such practice was not sanctioned by the constitution--the federal
+legislature having no power to act but with reference to the general
+interests of the states. The second was, that the road in question was
+local in the most limited sense, commencing at the Ohio river, and running
+back sixty miles to an interior town, and consequently, the grant in
+question came within neither the constitutional powers nor practice of
+congress.
+
+The president recommends that the surplus revenue, after the debt shall
+have been paid off, should be portioned out to the different states, in
+proportion to their ratio of representation; which appears to be
+judicious, as the question of congressional power to appropriate money to
+road-making, &c., although of a general character, involves also the right
+of jurisdiction; which congress clearly has not, except where the defence
+of the country, or other paramount interests, are concerned.
+
+The national debt will be totally extinguished in four years, when this
+country will present a curious spectacle for the serious consideration of
+European nations. During the space of fifty-six years, two successful wars
+have been carried on--one for the establishment, and the other for the
+maintenance of national independence, and a large amount of public works
+and improvements has been effected; yet, after the expiration of four
+years from this time, there will not only be no public debt, but the
+revenue arising from protecting tariff duties alone will amount to more
+than the expenditure by upwards of 10,000,000 dollars.
+
+A brief abstract from the treasury report on the finances of the United
+States, up to the 1st January, 1831, may not be uninteresting.
+
+                                             Dollars. Cts.
+Balance in the treasury, 1st January,
+1828                                         6,668,286 10
+
+Receipts of the year 1828                   24,789,463 61
+                                            _____________
+Total                                       31,457,749 71
+Expenditure for the year 1828               25,485,313 90
+                                            _____________
+Leaving a balance in the treasury, 1st
+January, 1829, of                            5,972,435 81
+
+Receipts from all sources during the
+year 1829                                   24,827,627 38
+
+Expenditures for the same year, including
+3,686,542 dol. 93 ct. on account of
+the public debt, and 9,033 dol. 38 ct.
+for awards under the first article of the
+treaty of Ghent                             25,044,358 40
+
+Balance in the treasury on 1st January,
+1830                                         5,755,704 79
+
+The receipts from all sources during the
+year 1830 were                              24,844,116 51
+
+                    viz.
+
+Customs                                     21,922,391 39
+
+Lands                                        2,329,356 14
+
+Dividends on bank stock                        490,000 00
+
+Incidental receipts                            102,368 98
+                                            _____________
+
+The expenditures for the same year were     24,585,281 55
+
+                    viz.
+
+Civil list, foreign intercourse,
+and miscellaneous                            3,237,416 04
+
+Military service, including
+fortifications, ordnance,
+Indian affairs,
+pensions, arming the
+militia, and internal
+improvements                                 6,752,688 66
+
+Naval service, including
+sums appropriated
+to the gradual
+improvement of the
+navy[14]                                     3,239,428 63
+
+Public debt                                 11,355,748 22
+                                            _____________
+
+Leaving a balance in the treasury
+on the 1st of January, 1831, of              6,014,539 75
+
+
+
+
+_Public Debt_.
+
+                                             Dollars. Cts.
+The payments made on account of the
+Public Debt, during the first three
+quarters of the year 1831, amounted to      9,883,479  46
+
+It was estimated that the payments to
+be made in the fourth quarter of the
+same year, would amount to                  6,205,810  21
+                                           ______________
+Making the whole amount of disbursments
+on account of the Debt in 1831             16,089,289  67
+
+
+
+THE  PUBLIC  DEBT,  ON  THE  SECOND  OF JANUARY, 1832, WILL
+BE AS FOLLOWS, VIZ.;--
+
+
+1. _Funded Debt_.
+                                             Dollars. Cts.
+Three per cents, per act
+of the 4th of August,
+1790, redeemable at the
+pleasure of government                      13,296,626 21
+
+Five per cents, per act of
+the 3rd of March, 1821,
+redeemable after the 1st
+January, 1823                                4,735,296 30
+
+Five per cents, (exchanged),
+per act of 20th of
+April, 1823; one third
+redeemable annually
+after 31st of December,
+1830, 1831 and 1832                            56,704  77
+
+Four and half per cents.
+per act of the 24th of
+May, 1824, redeemable
+after 1st of January,
+1832                                        1,739,524  01
+
+Four and half per cents.
+(exchanged), per act of
+the 26th of May, 1824;
+one half redeemable
+after the 31st day of
+December, 1832                              4,454,727  95
+                                           ______________
+                                           24,282,879  24
+
+
+2. _Unfunded Debt_.
+
+Registered Debt, being
+claims registered prior
+to the year 1793, for
+services and supplies
+during the revolutionary war                   27,919  85
+
+Treasury notes                                  7,116  00
+
+Mississippi stock                               4,320  09
+                                           ______________
+                                               39,355  94
+
+Making the whole amount of the Public
+Debt of the United States                  24,322,235  18
+                                           ______________
+
+Which is, allowing 480 cents to the
+sovereign, in sterling money            £5,067,132 6_s_. 7_d_.
+
+General Jackson has proposed another source of national revenue, in the
+establishment of a bank; the profits of which, instead of going into the
+pockets of stock-holders as at present, should be placed to the credit of
+the nation. If an establishment of this nature could be formed, without
+involving higher interests than the mere pecuniary concerns of the
+country, no doubt it would be most desirable. But how a _government_ bank
+could be so formed as that it should not throw immense and dangerous
+influence into the hands of the executive, appears difficult to determine.
+If it be at all connected with the government, the executive must exercise
+an extensive authority over its affairs; and in that case, the mercantile
+portion of the community would lie completely under the surveillance of
+the president, who might at pleasure exercise this immense patronage to
+forward private political designs. No doubt there have been abuses to a
+considerable extent practised by the present bank of the United States in
+the exercise of its functions; but how those abuses are likely to be
+remedied by Jackson's plan, does not appear. For, let the directors be
+appointed by government, or elected by congress, they must still exercise
+discretional power; and they are quite as likely to exercise it
+unwarrantably as those who have a direct interest in the prosperity of the
+concern. I totally disapprove of the attempt to correct the abuses of one
+monopoly by the establishment of another in its stead, of a still more
+dangerous character; and I am inclined to think that if two banks were
+chartered instead of one, each having ample capital to insure public
+confidence, competition alone would furnish a sufficient motive to induce
+them to act with justice and liberality towards the public.
+
+In 1766, Kentucky was first explored, by John Finlay, an Indian trader,
+Colonel Daniel Boon, and others. They again visited it in 1769, when the
+whole party, excepting Boon, were slain by the Indians--he escaped, and
+reached North Carolina, where he then resided. Accompanied by about forty
+expert hunters, comprised in five families, in the year 1775, he set
+forward to make a settlement in the country. They erected a fort on the
+banks of the Kentucky river, and being joined by several other
+adventurers, they finally succeeded. The Kentuckians tell of many a bloody
+battle fought by these pioneers, and boast that their country has been
+gained, every inch, by conquest.
+
+The climate of Kentucky is favourable to the growth of hemp, flax,
+tobacco, and all kinds of grain. The greater portion of the soil is rich
+loam, black, or mixed with reddish earth, generally to the depth of five
+or six feet, on a limestone bottom. The produce of corn is about sixty
+bushels on an average per acre, and of wheat about thirty-five; cotton is
+partially cultivated. The scenery is varied, and the country well
+watered.
+
+The Kentuckians all carry large pocket knives, which they never fail to
+use in a scuffle; and you may see a gentleman seated at the tavern door,
+balanced on two legs of a chair, picking his teeth with a knife, the blade
+of which is full six inches long, or cutting the benches, posts, or any
+thing else that may lie within his reach. Notwithstanding this, the
+Kentuckians are by no means more quarrelsome than any other people of the
+western states; and they are vastly less so than the people of Ireland.
+But when they do commence hostilities, they fight with great bitterness,
+as do most Americans, biting, gouging, and cutting unrelentingly.
+
+I never went into a court-house in the west _in summer_, without observing
+that the judges and lawyers had their feet invariably placed upon the
+desks before them, and raised much higher than their heads. This, however,
+is only in the western country; for in the courts at Orleans, New York,
+and Philadelphia, the greatest order and regularity is observed. I had
+been told that the judges often slept upon the bench; but I must confess,
+that although I have entered court-houses at all seasons during the space
+of fifteen months, I never saw an instance of it. I have frequently
+remonstrated with the Americans, on the total absence of forms and
+ceremonies in their courts of justice, and was commonly answered by "Yes,
+that may be quite necessary in England, in order to overawe a parcel of
+ignorant creatures, who have no share in making the laws; but with us, a
+man's a man, whether he have a silk gown on him or not; and I guess he can
+decide quite as well without a big wig as with one. You see, we have done
+with wiggery of all kinds; and if one of our judges were to wear such an
+appendage, he'd be taken for a merry-andrew, and the court would become a
+kind of show-box--instead of such arrangements producing with us
+solemnity, they would produce nothing but laughter, and the greatest
+possible irregularity."
+
+I was present at an election in the interior of the state. The office was
+that of representative in the state legislature, and the candidates were a
+hatter and a saddler; the former was also a militia major, and a Methodist
+preacher, of the Percival and Gordon school, who eschewed the devil and
+all the backsliding abominations of the flesh, as in duty bound. Sundry
+"stump orations" were delivered on the occasion, for the enlightenment of
+the electors; and towards the close of the proceedings, by way of an
+appropriate finale, the aforesaid triune-citizen and another gentleman,
+had a gouging scrape on the hustings. The major in this contest proved
+himself to be a true Kentuckian; that is, half a horse, and half an
+alligator; which contributed not a little to ensure his return. After the
+election, I was conversing with one of the most violent opponents of the
+successful candidate, and remarked to him, that I supposed he would rally
+his forces at the next election to put out the major: he replied, "I can't
+tell that!" I said, "why? will you not oppose him?" "Oh!" he says, "for
+that matter, he may do his duty pretty well." "And do you mean to say,"
+continued I, "that if he should do so, you will give him no opposition?"
+He looked at me, as if he did not clearly comprehend, and said, "Why, I
+guess not."
+
+The boatmen of the Ohio and Mississippi are the most riotous and lawless
+set of people in America, and the least inclined to submit to the
+constituted authorities. At Cincinnati I saw one of those persons
+arrested, on the wharf, for debt. He seemed little inclined to submit; as,
+could he contrive to escape to the opposite shore, he was safe. He called
+upon his companions in the flat-boat, who came instantly to his
+assistance, and were apparently ready to rescue him from the clutches of
+this trans-Atlantic bum-bailiff. The constable instantly pulled out--not a
+pistol, but a small piece of paper, and said, "I take him in the name of
+the States." The messmates of this unfortunate navigator looked at him for
+some time, and then one of them said drily, "I guess you must go with the
+constable." Subsequently, at New York, one evening returning to my hotel,
+I heard a row in a tavern, and wishing to see the process of capturing
+refractory citizens, I entered with some other persons. The constable was
+there unsupported by any of his brethren, and it seemed to me to be
+morally impossible that, without assistance, he could take half a dozen
+fellows, who were with difficulty restrained from whipping each other.
+However, his hand seemed to be as potent as the famous magic wand of
+Armida, for on placing it on the shoulders of the combatants, they fell
+into the ranks, and marched off with him as quietly as if they had been
+sheep. The rationale of the matter is this: those men had all exercised
+the franchise, if not in the election of these very constables, of
+others, and they therefore not only considered it to be their duty to
+support the constable's authority, but actually felt a strong inclination
+to do so. Because they _knew_ that the authority he exercised was only
+delegated to him by themselves, and that, in resisting him, they would
+resist their own sovereignty. Even in large towns in the western country,
+the constable has no men under his command, but always finds most powerful
+allies in the citizens themselves, whenever a lawless scoundrel, or a
+culprit is to be captured.
+
+At Flemingsburg I saw an Albino, a female about fourteen years old. Her
+parents were clear negros, of the Congo or Guinea race, and in every thing
+but colour she perfectly resembled them. Her form, face, and hair,
+possessed the true negro characteristics--curved shins, projecting jaw,
+retreating forehead, and woolly head. The skin was rather whiter than that
+of the generality of Europeans, but was deficient in glossiness, and
+although perfectly smooth, had a dry appearance. The wool on the head was
+of a light flaxen colour, and the iris of the eye was of a reddish-blue
+tinge. Her eyes were so weak as to bear with difficulty the glare of day.
+Most Albinos are dim sighted until twilight, when they appear to have as
+perfect vision as persons with the strongest sight, and in many cases,
+even more acute. This individual had evidently weak sight, as the eyelids
+were generally half closed, and she always held her head down during day
+light.
+
+Near the banks of the Ohio, full three hundred miles from the sea, I found
+conglomerations of marine shells, mixed with siliceous earth; and in
+nearly all the runs throughout Kentucky, limestone pebbles are found,
+bearing the perfect impressions of the interior of shells. The most
+abundant proofs are every where exhibited, that at one period the vast
+savannahs and lofty mountains of the New world were submerged; and perhaps
+the present bed of the ocean was once covered with verdure, and the seat
+of the sorrows and joys of myriads of human beings, who erected cities,
+and built pyramids, and monuments, which Time has long since swept away,
+and wrapt in his eternal mantle of oblivion. That a constant, but almost
+imperceptible change is hourly taking place in the earth's surface,
+appears to be established; and independent of the extraordinary
+_bouleversements_, which have at intervals convulsed our globe, this
+gradual revolution has produced, and will produce again, a total
+alteration in the face of nature.
+
+FOOTNOTES:
+
+[14] Amongst other plans to this effect, there is one proposed, by which
+midshipmen on half-pay will be obliged to make at least two voyages
+annually, in merchant ships, as mates, and all others must have done so,
+in order to entitle them to be reinstated in their former rank. Another
+is, that there shall be small vessels, rigged and fitted out in war
+style, appropriated to the purpose of teaching pupils, practically, the
+science of navigation, and the discipline necessary to be observed on
+board vessels of war. The Americans may not eat their fish with silver
+forks, nor lave their fingers in the most approved style; yet they are by
+no means so contemptible a people as some of our small gentry affect to
+think. They may too, occasionally, be put down in political argument, by
+the dogmatical method of the quarter-deck; but I must confess that _I_
+never was so fortunate as to come in contact with any who reasoned so
+badly as the persons Captain Bazil Hall introduces in his book.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER IX.
+
+
+The wailings of the Cherokee, the Choctaw, and the Creek, may have been
+wafted across the waters of the great salt lake, and the Pale-face in his
+own land may have heard their lamentations;--but the distant voice is
+scattered by the passing winds, and is heard like the whisper of a summer
+breeze as it steals along the prairies of the west, or the cry of the
+wish-ton-wish as it faintly reaches the ear of the navigator, when, in the
+stilly night, he floats down "the old father of waters."
+
+The present posture of Indian affairs, and the peculiar situation of the
+Indian nations east of the Mississippi, have caused that unfortunate
+people to be the topic of much political controversy and conversation; a
+succinct account of the political condition of these tribes, and of the
+policy which has been pursued, and which is being pursued towards them, by
+the executive government, may not therefore be uninteresting.
+
+When Georgia, by becoming a member of the Union, ceded part of her
+sovereignty to the general executive, that government acknowledged her
+claimed limits, and guaranteed to her the protection of the Union against
+foreign and domestic violence. Subsequently, in the year of 1802, in
+consideration of a certain portion of lands ceded, the United States
+became bound to purchase for Georgia, any claim which the Cherokee nation
+might have on lands within her boundaries, whenever such purchase could be
+made on reasonable terms. On these positions are based the Georgian
+claims, which the United States government has hitherto pleaded inability
+to satisfy, inasmuch as all efforts to purchase the Indian lands have
+proved fruitless.
+
+After the lapse of twenty-seven years, Georgia, finding herself precisely
+in the same condition in which she then stood, has determined on forcibly
+taking possession of the Cherokee lands, and extending her sovereignty
+over the Cherokee people. But as this cannot be effected without doing
+manifest violence to the Indian rights, she brings forward arguments to
+show, that _she_ never acknowledged the independence of the Cherokee
+nation; that that nation, from the time of the first settlement made by
+Europeans in America, stood in the position of a conquered people; that
+the sovereignty consequently dwelt in the hands of Great Britain; and
+that, on the Declaration of independence, Georgia, by becoming a free
+state, became invested with all the powers of sovereignty claimed or
+exercised by Great Britain over the Georgian territory: and further, that
+in November, 1785, when the first and only treaty was concluded with the
+Cherokees by the United States, during the articles of confederation, both
+she and North Carolina entered their solemn protests against this alleged
+violation of their legislative rights. The executive government pretends
+not to argue the case with Georgia, and is left no alternative but either
+to annul its _conditional_ treaty with that state, or to cancel _thirteen
+distinct treaties_ entered into with the Indians, despoil them of their
+lands, and rob them of their independence. Jackson's message says, "It is
+too late to inquire whether it was just in the United States to include
+them and their territory within bounds of new states, whose limits they
+could control. That step cannot be retracted. A state cannot be
+dismembered by Congress, or restrained in the exercise of her
+constitutional powers." Here the executive government acknowledges that it
+made promises to Georgia, which it has been unable to perform--that it
+guaranteed to that state the possession of lands over which it had no
+legitimate control, on the mere assumption of being able to make their
+purchase.
+
+The Cherokees in their petition and memorials to Congress show, that Great
+Britain never exercised any sovereignty over them;--that in peace and in
+war she always treated them as a free people, and never assumed to herself
+the right of interfering with their internal government:--that in every
+treaty made with them by the United States, their sovereignty and total
+independence are clearly acknowledged, and that they have ever been
+considered as a distinct nation, exercising all the privileges and
+immunities enjoyed by any independent people. They say, "In addition to
+that first of all rights, the right of inheritance and peaceable
+possession, we have the faith and pledge of the United States, over and
+over again, in treaties made at various times. By these treaties our
+rights as a separate people are distinctly acknowledged, and guarantees
+given that they shall be secured and protected. So we have also
+understood the treaties. The conduct of the government towards us, from
+its organization until very lately--the talks given to our beloved men by
+the Presidents of the United States--and the speeches of the agents and
+commissioners--all concur to show that we are not mistaken in our
+interpretation. Some of our beloved men who signed the treaties are still
+living, and their testimony tends to the same conclusion." * * * * "In
+what light shall we view the conduct of the United States and Georgia in
+their intercourse with us, in urging us to enter into treaties and cede
+lands? If we were but tenants at will, why was it necessary that our
+consent must first be obtained before these governments could take lawful
+possession of our lands? The answer is obvious. These governments
+perfectly understand our rights--our right to the country, and our right
+to self-government. Our understanding of the treaties is further supported
+by the intercourse law of the United States, which prohibits all
+encroachment on our territory."
+
+The arguments used by the Cherokees are unanswerable; but in what will
+that avail them, when injustice is intended by a superior power, which,
+regardless of national faith, has determined on taking possession of their
+lands? The case stands thus: the executive government enters into an
+agreement with Georgia, and engages to deliver over to the state the
+Indian possessions within her claimed limits--without the Indians _having
+any knowledge of, or participation in the transaction._ Now what, may I
+ask, have the Indians to do with this? Ought they to be made answerable
+for the gross misconduct of the two governments, and to be despoiled,
+contrary to every principle of justice, and in defiance of the most plain
+and fundamental law of property? It puts one in mind of the judgment of
+the renowned "Walter the Doubter," who decided between two citizens, that,
+as their account books appeared to be of equal _weight_, therefore their
+accounts were balanced, and that _the constable_ should pay the costs. The
+United States government has made several offers to the Cherokees for
+their lands; which they have as constantly refused, and said, "that they
+were very well contented where they were--that they did not wish to leave
+the bones of their ancestors, and go beyond the Mississippi; but that, if
+the country be so beautiful as their white brother represents it, they
+would recommend their white brother to go there himself."
+
+Georgia presses upon the executive; which, in this dilemma, comes forward
+with affected sympathy--deplores the unfortunate situation in which it is
+placed, but of course concludes that faith must be kept with Georgia, and
+that the Cherokee must either go, or submit to laws that make it far
+better for him to go than stay. It is true Jackson says in his message,
+"This emigration should be voluntary; for it would be cruel as unjust to
+compel the Aborigines to abandon the graves of their fathers, and seek a
+home in a distant land." But General Jackson well knows that the laws of
+Georgia leave the Indian no choice--as no community of men, civilized or
+savage, could possibly exist under such laws. The benefit and protection
+of the laws, to which the Indian is made subject, are entirely withheld
+from him--he can be no party to a suit--he may be robbed and murdered with
+impunity--his property may be taken, and he may be driven from his
+dwelling--in fine, he is left liable to every species of insult, outrage,
+cruelty, and dishonesty, without the most distant hope of obtaining
+redress; for in Georgia _an Indian cannot be a witness to prove facts
+against a white man._ Yet General Jackson says, "this emigration should be
+_voluntary_;" and in the very same paragraph, with a single sweep of the
+pen, he annihilates all the treaties that have been made with that
+people--tramples under foot the laws of nations, and deprives the Indian
+of his hunting-grounds, one of his sources of subsistence. He says,--"But
+it seems to me visionary to suppose that, in this state of things, claims
+can be allowed on tracts of country on which they have neither dwelt nor
+made improvements, merely because they have seen them from the mountain,
+or passed them in the chase." It certainly may be unphilosophical to
+permit any man to possess more ground than he can till with his own hands;
+yet surely arguments that we do not admit as regards ourselves, we can
+with no sense of propriety use towards others, particularly when our own
+acts are directly in the very teeth of this principle. There is more land
+at present within the limits and in the possession of the United States
+than would be sufficient to support thirty times the present
+population--yet to this must be added the hunting-grounds of the Indians,
+merely because "it is _visionary to suppose_ they have any claim on what
+they do not _actually occupy!"_
+
+I have now before me the particulars of thirteen treaties[15] made by the
+United States with the Cherokee nation, from the year 1785 down to 1819
+inclusive; in all of which the rights of the Indians are clearly
+acknowledged, either directly, or by implication; and by the seventh
+article of the treaty of Holston, executed in 1791, being the first
+concluded with that people by the United States, under their present
+constitution, all the lands not thereby ceded are solemnly guaranteed to
+the Cherokee nation. The subsequent treaties are made with reference to,
+and in confirmation of this, and continually reiterate the guarantees
+therein tendered.
+
+To talk of justice, and honour, would be idle and visionary, for these
+seem to have been thrown overboard at the very commencement of the
+contest; but I would ask the American _people_, is their conduct towards
+the Indians politic?--is it politic in America, in the face of civilized
+nations, to violate treaties? is it politic in her, to hold herself up to
+the world as faithless and unjust--as a nation, which, in defiance of all
+moral obligation, will break her most sacred contracts, whenever it
+becomes no longer her interest to keep them, and she finds herself in a
+condition to do so with impunity? is she not furnishing foreign statesmen
+with a ready and powerful argument in defence of their violating treaties
+with her? can they not with justice say--America has manifested in her
+proceedings towards the Cherokee nation, that she is faithless--that she
+keeps no treaties longer than it may be her _interest_ to do so--and are
+_we_ to make ourselves the dupes of such a power, and wait until she finds
+herself in a condition to deceive us? I could produce many arguments to
+illustrate the impolicy of this conduct; but as I intend confining myself
+to a mere sketch, I shall dwell but as short a time as may be consistent
+on the several facts connected with the case.
+
+That the Aborigines have been cruelly treated, cannot be doubted. The very
+words of the Message admit this; and the tone of feeling and conciliation
+which follows that admission, coupled as it is with the intended injustice
+expressed in other paragraphs, can be viewed in no other light than as a
+piece of political mockery. The Message says, "their present condition,
+contrasted with what they once were, makes a most powerful appeal to our
+sympathies. Our ancestors found them the uncontrolled possessors of these
+vast regions. By persuasion and force, they have been made to retire from
+river to river, and from mountain to mountain, until some of the tribes
+have become extinct, and others have left but remnants, to preserve for a
+while their once terrible names." Now the plan laid down by the president,
+in order to prevent, if possible, the total decay of the Indian people,
+is, to send them beyond the Mississippi, and _guarantee_ to them the
+possession of ample territory west of that river. How far this is likely
+to answer the purpose _expressed_, let us now examine.
+
+The Cherokees, by their intercourse with and proximity to the white
+people, have become half civilized; and how is it likely that _their_
+condition will be improved by driving them into the forests and barren
+prairies? That territory is at present the haunt of the Pawnees, the
+Osages, and other warlike nations, who live almost entirely by the chase,
+and are constantly waging war even with each other. As soon as the
+Cherokees, and other half-civilized Indians, appear, they will be regarded
+as common intruders, and be subject to the united attacks of these people.
+There are even old feuds existing among themselves, which, it is but too
+probable, may be renewed. Trappers and hunters, in large parties, yearly
+make incursions into the country beyond the boundaries of the United
+States, and in defiance of the Indians kill the beaver and the
+buffalo--the latter merely for the _tongue and skin_, leaving the carcase
+to rot upon the ground.[16] Thus is this unfortunate race robbed of their
+means of subsistence. Moreover, what guarantee can the Indians have, that
+the United States will keep faith for the future, when it is admitted that
+they have not done so in times past? How can they be sure that they may
+not further be driven from river to river, and from mountain to mountain,
+until they reach the shores of the Pacific; and who can tell but that then
+it may be found expedient to drive them into the ocean?
+
+The policy of the United States government is evidently to get the Indians
+to exterminate each other. Its whole proceedings from the time this
+question was first agitated to the present, but too clearly indicate this
+intention; and if we wanted proof, that the executive government of the
+United States _would act_ on so barbarous and inhuman a policy, we need
+only refer to the allocation of the Cherokees, who exchanged lands in
+Tennessee for lands west of the Mississippi, pursuant to the treaty of
+1819. It was well known that a deadly enmity existed between the Osages
+and Cherokees, and that any proximity of the two people, would inevitably
+lead to fatal results; yet, with this knowledge, the executive government
+placed those Cherokees in the country lying between the Arkansaw and Red
+rivers, _immediately joining the territory of the Osages._ It is
+unnecessary to state that the result was _as anticipated_--they daily
+committed outrages upon the persons and properties of each other, and the
+death of many warriors, on both sides, ensued.
+
+The sympathy expressed in that part of the Message relating to the
+Indians, if expressed with sincerity, would do much honour to the feelings
+that dictated it; but when we come to examine the facts, and investigate
+the implied allegations, we shall find that they are most gratuitous; and,
+consequently, that the regret of the president at the probable fate of the
+Indian, should he remain east of the Mississippi, is grossly hypocritical.
+He says, "surrounded by the whites, with their arts of civilization,
+which, by destroying the resources of the savage, doom him to weakness and
+decay:[17] the fate of the Mohegan, the Narragansett, and the Delaware, is
+fast overtaking the Choctaw, the Cherokee, and the Creek. That this fate
+surely awaits them, if they remain within the limits of the States, does
+not admit of a doubt. Humanity and national honour demand that every
+effort should be made to avert so great a calamity." From what facts the
+president has drawn these conclusions does not appear. Neither the
+statements of the Cherokees, nor of the Indian agents, nor the report of
+the secretary of war, furnish any such information; on the contrary, with
+the exception of one or two agents _at Washington_, all give the most
+flattering accounts of advancement in civilization. The Rev. Samuel A.
+Worcester, in his letter to the Rev. E.S. Ely, editor of the
+"Philadelphian," completely refutes all the unfavourable statements that
+have been got up to cover the base conduct of Jackson and the slavites.
+This gentleman has resided for the last four years among the Cherokees,
+and has surely had abundant means of observing their condition.
+
+The letter of David Brown (a Cherokee), addressed, September 2, 1825, to
+the editor of "The Family Visitor," at Richmond, Virginia, states, that
+"the Cherokee plains are covered with herds of cattle--sheep, goats, and
+swine, cover the valleys and hills--the plains and valleys are rich, and
+produce Indian corn, cotton, tobacco, wheat, oats, indigo, sweet and Irish
+potatoes, &c. The natives carry on a considerable trade with the adjoining
+states, and some of them export cotton in boats down the Tennessee to the
+Mississippi, and down that river to New Orleans. Orchards are
+common--cheese, butter, &c. plenty--houses of entertainment are kept by
+natives. Cotton and woollen cloths are manufactured in the nation, and
+almost every family grows cotton for its own consumption. Agricultural
+pursuits engage the chief attention of the nation--different branches of
+mechanics are pursued. Schools are increasing every year, and education is
+encouraged and rewarded." To quote David Brown verbatim, on the
+population,--"In the year 1819, an estimate was made of the Cherokees.
+Those on the west were estimated at 5,000, and those on the east of the
+Mississippi, at 10,000 souls. The census of this division of the Cherokees
+has again been taken within the current year (1825), and the returns are
+thus made: native citizens, 13,563; white men married in the nation, 147;
+white women ditto, 73; African slaves, 1177. If this summary of the
+Cherokee population, from the census, is correct, to say nothing of those
+of foreign extract, we find that in six years the increase has been 3,563
+souls. National pride, patriotism, and a spirit of independence, mark the
+Cherokee character." He further states, "the system of government is
+founded on republican principles, and secures the respect of the people."
+An alphabet has been invented by an Indian, named George Guess, the
+Cherokee Cadmus, and a printing press has been established at New Echota,
+the seat of government, where there is published weekly a paper entitled,
+"The Cherokee Phoenix,"--one half being in the English language, and the
+other in that of the Cherokee.
+
+The report of the secretary of war, upon the present condition of the
+Indians, states of the Chickesaws and Choctaws, all that has been above
+said of the Cherokees. But of the last-mentioned people, the secretary's
+accounts appear to be studiously defective. Yet the fact is notorious,
+that both the Chickesaws and Choctaws are far behind the Cherokees in
+civilization.
+
+With these facts before our eyes, what are we to think of the grief of the
+president, at the decay and increasing weakness of the Cherokees? Can it
+be regarded in any way but as a piece of shameless hypocrisy, too glaring
+in its character to escape the notice even of the most inobservant
+individual. It has been said that the question involves many
+difficulties--to me there appears none. The United States, in the year
+1791, guarantee to the Indians the possession of all their lands not then
+ceded--and confirm this by numerous subsequent treaties. In 1802, they
+promise to Georgia, the possession of the Cherokee lands "_whenever such
+purchase could be made on reasonable terms_" This is the simple state of
+the case; and if the executive were inclined to act uprightly, the line of
+conduct to be pursued could be determined on without much difficulty.
+Georgia has no right to press upon the executive the fulfilment of
+engagements which were made conditionally, and consequently with an
+implied reservation; and the United States should not violate _many
+positive treaties_, in order to fulfil _a conditional one_.[18]
+
+I shall now advert to some of the charges touching the character of the
+Indians. It is said, that they are debauched and insincere. This charge
+has been particularly made against the Creeks, and I believe is not
+altogether unfounded. Yet, if this be now the character of the once
+warlike and noble Creek, let the white man ask himself who has made him
+so? Who makes the "firewater," and who supplies the untutored savage with
+the means of intoxication? The white-man, when he wishes to trade
+profitably with the Indian, fills the cup, and holds it forth--he says,
+'drink, my brother, it is good'--the red-man drinks, and the wily white
+points at his condition, says he is uncivilized, and should go forth from
+the land, for his presence is contamination!
+
+As to the charge of hypocrisy--this too has been taught or forced upon the
+Indians by the conduct of the whites. Missionaries have been constantly
+going among them, teaching dogmas and doctrines, far beyond the
+comprehension of some learned white-men, and to the savage totally
+unintelligible. These gentlemen have told long stories; and when posed by
+some quaint saying, or answered by some piece of traditional information,
+handed down from generation to generation, by the fathers and mothers of
+the tribe, have found it necessary to purchase the acquiescence of a few
+Indians by bribes, in order that their labours might not seem to have been
+altogether unsuccessful. This conduct of the Missionaries was soon
+_understood_ by the Indians, and the temptation held out was too great to
+be resisted. Blankets and gowns converted, when inspiration and gospel
+truths had failed.
+
+Mr. Houston of Tennessee, after having attained the honour of being
+governor of his state, and having enjoyed all the consideration
+necessarily attached to that office, at length became tired of civilized
+life, and retired among the Creeks to end his days. He has resided long
+among them, and knows their character well; yet, in one of his statements
+made to the Indian board at New York, he says, that the attempts to
+Christianize the Indians in their present state, he was of opinion, much
+as he honoured the zeal that had prompted them, were fruitless, _or
+worse._ The supposed conversions had produced no change of habits. So
+degraded had become the character of this once independent people, that
+professions of religious belief had been made, and the ordinances of
+religion submitted to, "when an Indian wanted a new blanket, or a squaw a
+new gown."[19] Thus, according to governor Houston, the only fruits
+produced by the boasted labours of the missionaries, have been
+dissimulation and deceit; and demoralization has been the result of
+teaching _doctrinal_ Christianity to the children of the forest. Yet we
+must, in candour, acknowledge that Mr. Houston is not singular in that
+opinion, since we find, so far back as the year 1755, Cadwallader Calden
+express himself much to the same effect. "The Five Nations," he says, "are
+a poor and generally called barbarous people, bred under the darkest
+ignorance; and yet a bright and noble genius shines through these black
+clouds. None of the greatest Roman heroes have discovered a greater love
+of country, or contempt of death, than these people, called barbarous,
+have shown when liberty came in competition. Indeed I think our Indians
+have outdone the Romans in this particular. Some of the greatest of those
+Roman heroes have murdered themselves to avoid shame or torments; but our
+Indians have refused to die meanly or with little pain, when they thought
+their country's honour would be at stake by it; but have given their
+bodies willingly to the most cruel torments of their enemies, to show, as
+they said, that 'the Five Nations' consisted of men whose courage and
+resolution could not be shaken. But what, alas! have we Christians done to
+make them better? We have, indeed, reason to be ashamed that these
+infidels, by our conversation and neighbourhood, are become worse than
+they were before they knew us. Instead of virtue, we have only taught them
+vice, that they were entirely free from before that time."[20] The Rev.
+Timothy Flint, who was himself a missionary, in his "Ten Years' Residence
+in the Valley of the Mississippi," observes, page 144,--"I have surely
+had it in my heart to impress them with the importance of the subject
+(religion). I have scarcely noticed an instance in which the subject was
+not received either with indifference, rudeness, or jesting. Of all races
+of men that I have seen, they seem most incapable of religious
+impressions. They have, indeed, some notions of an invisible agent, but
+they seemed generally to think that the Indians had their god as the
+whites had theirs." And again, "nothing will eventually be gained to the
+great cause by colouring and mis-statement," alluding to the practice of
+the missionaries; "and however reluctant we may be to receive it, the real
+state of things will eventually be known to us. We have heard of the
+imperishable labours of an Elliott and a Brainard, in other days. But in
+these times it is a melancholy truth, that Protestant exertions to
+Christianize them have not been marked with apparent success. The
+Catholics have caused many to hang a crucifix around their necks, which
+they show as they show their medals and other ornaments, and this is too
+often all they have to mark them as Christians. We have read the
+narratives of the Catholics, which detailed the most glowing and animating
+views of success. I have had accounts, however, from travellers in these
+regions, that have been over the Stony mountains into the great missionary
+settlements of St. Peter and St. Paul. These travellers (and some of them
+were professed Catholics) unite in affirming that the converts will escape
+from the missions whenever it is in their power, fly into their native
+deserts, and resume at once their old mode of life."
+
+That the vast sums expended on missions should have produced so little
+effect, we may consider lamentable, but it is lamentably true; for in
+addition to the mass of evidence we have to that effect, from
+disinterested white men, we have also the speeches and communications of
+the Indians themselves. The celebrated Seneca chief, Saguyuwhaha (keeper
+awake), better known in the United States by the name of Red-jacket, in a
+letter communicated to Governor De Witt Clinton, at a treaty held at
+Albany, says, "Our great father, the President, has recommended to our
+young men to be industrious, to plough and to sow. This we have done; and
+we are thankful for the advice, and for the means he has afforded us of
+carrying it into effect. We are happier in consequence of it; _but another
+thing recommended to us, has created great confusion among us, and is
+making us a quarrelsome and divided people; and that is, the introduction
+of preachers into our nation_. These black-coats contrive to get the
+consent of some of the Indians to preach among us; and whenever this is
+the case, confusion and disorder are sure to follow, and the encroachment
+of the whites on our lands is the inevitable consequence.
+
+"The governor must not think hard of me for speaking thus of the
+preachers: I have observed their progress, and whenever I look back to
+see what has taken place of old, I perceive that whenever they came among
+the Indians, they were the forerunners of their dispersion; that they
+always excited enmities and quarrels amongst them; that they introduced
+the white people on their lands, by whom they were robbed and plundered of
+their property; and that the Indians were sure to dwindle and decrease,
+and be driven back, in proportion to the number of preachers that came
+among them.
+
+"Each nation has its own customs and its own religion. The Indians have
+theirs, given them by the Great Spirit, under which they were happy. It
+was not intended that they should embrace the religion of the whites, and
+be destroyed by the attempt to make them think differently on that subject
+from their fathers.
+
+"It is true, these preachers have got the consent of some of the chiefs to
+stay and preach amongst us; but I and my friends know this to be wrong,
+and that they ought to be removed; besides, we have been threatened by Mr.
+Hyde--who came among us as a schoolmaster and a teacher of our children,
+but has now become a black-coat, and refuses to teach them any more--that
+unless we listen to his preaching and become Christians, we shall be
+turned off our lands. We wish to know from the governor, if this is to be
+so? and if he has no right to say so, we think _he_ ought to be turned off
+our lands, and not allowed to plague us any more. We shall never be at
+peace while he is among us.
+
+"We are afraid too, that these preachers, by and by, will become poor,
+_and force us to pay them for living among us, and disturbing us._
+
+"Some of our chiefs have got lazy, and instead of cultivating their lands
+themselves, employ white people to do so. There are now eleven families
+living on our reservation at Buffalo; this is wrong, and ought not to be
+permitted. The great source of all our grievances is, that the whites are
+among us. Let _them_ be removed, and we will be happy and contented among
+ourselves. We now cry to the governor for help, and hope that he will
+attend to our complaints, and speedily give us redress."[21]
+
+This melancholy hostility to the missionaries is not confined to a
+particular tribe or nation of Indians, for all those people, in every
+situation, from the base of the Alleghanies to the foot of the Rocky
+mountains, declare the same sentiments on this subject; and although
+policy or courtesy may induce some chiefs to express themselves less
+strongly than Red-jacket has expressed himself, we have but too many
+proofs that their feelings are not more moderate. On the fourth of
+February, 1822, the president of the United States, in council, received a
+deputation of Indians, from the principal nations west of the
+Mississippi, who came under the protection of Major O'Fallon, when each
+chief delivered a speech on the occasion. I shall here insert an extract
+from that of the "Wandering Pawnee" chief, more as a specimen of Indian
+wisdom and eloquence than as bearing particularly on the subject. Speaking
+of the Great Spirit, he said, "We worship him not as you do. We differ
+from you in appearance, and manners, as well as in our customs; and we
+differ from you in our religion. We have no large houses, as you have, to
+worship the Great Spirit in: if we had them to-day, we should want others
+to-morrow; for we have not like you a fixed habitation--we have no settled
+home except our villages, where we remain but two months in twelve. We,
+like animals, rove through the country; whilst you whites reside between
+us and heaven. But still, my great Father, we love the Great Spirit--we
+acknowledge his supreme power--our peace, our health, and our happiness
+depend upon him, and our lives belong to him--he made us, and he can
+destroy us.
+
+"My great Father,--some of your good chiefs, as they are called
+(missionaries), have proposed to send some of their good people among us
+to change our habits, to make us work for them, and live like the white
+people. I will not tell a lie--I am going to tell the truth. You love your
+country--you love your people--you love the manner in which they live, and
+you think your people brave. I am like you, my great Father; I love my
+country--I love my people--I love the manner in which we live, and think
+myself and warriors brave.[22] Spare me then, my Father; let me enjoy my
+country, and pursue the buffalo and the beaver, and the other wild animals
+of our country, and I will trade their skins with your people. I have
+grown up and lived thus long without work--I am in hopes you will suffer
+me to die without it. We have plenty of buffalo, beaver, deer, and other
+wild animals--we have also an abundance of horses--we have every thing we
+want--we have plenty of land, _if you will keep your people off it_. My
+Father has a piece on which he lives (Council bluffs), and we wish him to
+enjoy it--we have enough without it--but we wish him to live near us, to
+give us good council--to keep our ears and eyes open, that we may continue
+to pursue the right road--the road to happiness. He settles all
+differences between us and the whites, between the red-skins
+themselves--he makes the whites do justice to the red-skins, and he makes
+the red-skins do justice to the whites. He saves the effusion of human
+blood, and restores peace and happiness in the land. You have already sent
+us a father (Major O'Fallon); it is enough--he knows us, and we know
+him--we keep our eye constantly upon him, and since we have heard _your_
+words, we will listen more attentively to _his_.
+
+"It is too soon, my great Father, to send those good chiefs amongst us.
+_We are not starving yet_--we wish you to permit us to enjoy the chase
+until the game of our country is exhausted--until the wild animals become
+extinct. Let us exhaust our present resources before you make us toil and
+interrupt our happiness. Let me continue to live as I have done; and after
+I have passed to the good or evil spirit, from off the wilderness of my
+present life, the subsistence of my children may become so precarious as
+to need and embrace the assistance of those good people.
+
+"There was a time when we did not know the whites--our wants were then
+fewer than they are now. They were always within our control--we had then
+seen nothing which we could not get. Before our intercourse with the
+whites (who have caused such a destruction in our game) we could lie down
+to sleep, and when we awoke we would find the buffalo feeding around our
+camp--but now we are killing them for their skins, and feeding the wolves
+with their flesh, to make our children cry over their bones.
+
+"Here, my great Father, is a pipe which I present to you, as I am
+accustomed to present pipes to all the Red-skins in peace with us. It is
+filled with such tobacco as we were accustomed to smoke before we knew
+the white people. It is pleasant, and the spontaneous growth of the most
+remote parts of our country. I know that the robes, leggings, and
+moccasins, and bear-claws are of little value to _you_; but we wish you to
+have them deposited and preserved in some conspicuous part of your lodge,
+so that when we are gone and the sod turned over our bones, if our
+children should visit this place, as we do now, they may see and recognize
+with pleasure the depositories of their fathers; and reflect on the times
+that are past."
+
+I shall now take leave of the Indians and their political condition, by
+observing that the proceedings of the American government, throughout,
+towards this brave but unfortunate race, have only been exceeded in
+atrocity by the past and present conduct of the East India government
+towards the pusillanimous but unoffending Hindoos.
+
+    _Note_.--This chapter I wrote during my stay in Kentucky, and the
+    first part of it, in substance, was inserted in the "Kentucky
+    Intelligencer," at the request of the talented editor and
+    proprietor, John Mullay, Esq.
+
+FOOTNOTES:
+
+[15] In November, 1785, during the articles of confederation, a treaty is
+concluded with the Cherokees, which establishes a boundary, and allots to
+the Indians a great extent of country, now within the limits of North
+Carolina and Georgia.
+
+In 1791, the treaty of Holston is concluded; by which a new boundary is
+agreed upon. This was the first treaty made by the United States under
+their present constitution; and by the seventh article, a solemn
+guarantee is given for all the lands not then ceded.
+
+On the 7th of February, 1792, by an additional article to the last
+treaty, 500 dollars are added to the stipulated annuity.
+
+In June, 1794, another treaty is entered into, in which the provisions of
+the treaty of 1791 are revived, an addition is made to the annuity, and
+provision made for marking the boundary line.
+
+In October, 1798, a treaty is concluded which revives former treaties,
+and curtails the boundary of Indian lands by a cession to the United
+States, for an additional compensation.
+
+In October, 1804, a treaty is concluded, by which, for a consideration
+specified, more land is ceded.
+
+In October, 1805, two treaties are made, by which an additional quantity
+of land is ceded.
+
+On 7th January, 1806, by another treaty, more land is ceded to the United
+States.
+
+In September, 1807, the boundary line intended in the last treaty, is
+satisfactorily ascertained.
+
+On 22d March, 1816, a treaty is concluded, by which lands in South
+Carolina are ceded, for which the United States engage South Carolina
+shall pay. On the same day another treaty is made, by which the Indians
+agree to allow the use of the water-courses in their country, and also to
+permit roads to be made through the same.
+
+On the 14th of September, 1816, a treaty is made, by which an additional
+quantity of land is ceded to the United States.
+
+On the 8th of July, 1817, a treaty is concluded, by which an exchange of
+lands is agreed on, and a plan for dividing the Cherokees settled.
+
+On the 27th of February, 1819, another treaty is concluded, in execution
+of the stipulations contained in that of 1817, in several particulars,
+and in which an additional tract of country is ceded to the United
+States.
+
+[16] "The white hunter, on encamping in his journeys, cuts down green
+trees, and builds a large fire of long logs, sitting at some distance
+from it. The Indian hunts up a few dry limbs, cracks them into little
+pieces a foot in length, builds a small fire, and sits close to it. He
+gets as much warmth as the white hunter without half the labour, and does
+not burn more than a fiftieth part of the wood. The Indian considers the
+forest his own, and is careful in using and preserving every thing which
+it affords. He never kills more than he has occasion for. The white
+hunter destroys all before him, and cannot resist the opportunity of
+killing game, although he neither wants the meat nor can carry the skins.
+I was particularly struck with this wanton practice, which lately
+occurred on White river. A hunter returning from the woods, heavily laden
+with the flesh and skins of five bears, unexpectedly arrived in the midst
+of a drove of buffalos, and wantonly shot down three, having no other
+object than the sport of killing them. This is one of the causes
+of the enmity existing between the white and red hunters of
+Missouri".--_Schoolcroft's Tour in Missouri_, page 52.
+
+[17] Does the General include among the arts of civilization, that of
+systematically robbing the Indians of their farms and hunting grounds? If
+so, no doubt _these arts of civilization_, must inevitably "destroy the
+resources of the savage," and "doom him to weakness and decay."
+
+[18] The Indians apply the term "Christian honesty," precisely in the
+same sense that the Romans applied "_Punica fides_."
+
+[19] There is an old Indian at present in the Missouri territory, to whom
+his tribe has given the cognomen of "much-water," from the circumstance
+of his having been baptized so frequently.
+
+[20] Heriot says (page 320), "They have evinced a decided attachment to
+their ancient habits, and have _gained_ less from the means that might
+have smoothed the asperities of their condition, than they have _lost_ by
+copying the vices of those, who exhibited to their view the arts of
+civilization."
+
+[21] This letter was dictated by Red-jacket, and interpreted by Henry
+Obeal, in the presence of ten chiefs, whose names are affixed, at
+Canandaigua, January 18, 1821.
+
+[22] "The attachment which savages entertain for their mode of life
+supersedes every allurement, however powerful, to change it. Many
+Frenchmen have lived with them, and have imbibed such an invincible
+partiality for that independent and erratic condition, that no means
+could prevail on them to abandon it. On the contrary, no single instance
+has yet occurred of a savage being able to reconcile himself to a state
+of civilization. Infants have been taken from among the natives, and
+educated with much care in France, where they could not possibly have
+intercourse with their countrymen and relations. Although they had
+remained several years in that country, and could not form the smallest
+idea of the wilds of America, the force of blood predominated over that
+of education: no sooner did they find themselves at liberty than they
+tore their clothes in pieces, and went to traverse the forests in search
+of their countrymen, whose mode of life appeared to them far more
+agreeable than that which they had led among the French."--_-Heriot_, p.
+354.
+
+This passage of Heriot's is taken nearly verbatim from Charlevoix, v. 2,
+p. 109.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER X.
+
+
+I left Kentucky, and passed up the river to Wheeling, in Virginia. There
+is little worthy of observation encountered in a passage up this part of
+the Ohio, except the peculiar character of the stream, which has been
+before alluded to. At Marietta, at the mouth of the Muskingum,
+ship-building is carried on; and vessels have been constructed at
+Pittsburg, full 2000 miles from the gulf of Mexico. About seventy miles up
+the Kenhawa river, in Virginia, are situated the celebrated salt springs,
+the most productive of any in the Union. They are at present in the
+possession of a chartered company, which limits the manufacture to
+800,000 bushels annually, but it is estimated that the fifty-seven wells
+are capable of yielding 50,000 bushels each, per annum, which would make
+an aggregate of 2,850,000 bushels. Many of these springs issue out of
+rocks, and the water is so strongly impregnated with salt, that from 90 to
+130 gallons yield a bushel. The whole western country bordering the Ohio
+and its tributaries, is supplied with salt from these works.
+
+Wheeling, although not large, enjoys a considerable share of commercial
+intercourse, being an entrepôt for eastern merchandize, which is
+transported from the Atlantic cities across the mountains to this town and
+Pittsburg, and from thence by water to the different towns along the
+rivers.
+
+The process of "hauling" merchandize from Baltimore and Philadelphia to
+the banks of the Ohio, and _vice versâ_, is rather tedious, the roads
+lying across steep and rugged mountains. Large covered waggons, light and
+strong, drawn by five or six horses, two and two, are employed for this
+purpose. The waggoner always rides the near shaft horse, and guides the
+team by means of reins, a whip, and his voice. The time generally consumed
+in one of these journeys is from twenty to twenty-five days.
+
+All the mountains or hills on the upper part of the Ohio, from Wheeling to
+Pittsburg, contain immense beds of coal; this added to the mineral
+productions, particularly that of iron ore, which abound in this section
+of country, offers advantages for manufacturing, which are of considerable
+importance, and are fully appreciated. Pittsburg is called the Birmingham
+of America. Some of those coal beds are well circumstanced, the coal being
+found immediately under the super-stratum, and the galleries frequently
+running out on the high road. Notwithstanding the local advantages, and
+the protection and encouragement at present afforded by the tariff,
+England need never fear any extensive competition with her manufactures
+in foreign markets from America, as the high spirit of the people of that
+country will always prevent them from pursuing, extensively, the sordid
+occupations of the loom or the workshop.
+
+The upper parts of Virginia and Pennsylvania are in a high state of
+improvement; the land is hilly, and the face of the country picturesque.
+The farms are well cultivated, and there is a large portion of pasture
+land in this and the adjoining states. I encountered several large droves
+of horses and black cattle on their way to the neighbourhood of
+Philadelphia and to the state of New York. The black cattle are purchased
+principally in Ohio, whence they are brought into the Atlantic states, to
+be fattened and consumed. The farmers and their families in Pennsylvania,
+have an appearance of comfort and respectability a good deal resembling
+that of the substantial English yeoman; yet farming here, as in all parts
+of the country, is a laborious occupation.
+
+I crossed the Monongahela at Williamsport, and the Youghaghany at
+Robstown, and so on through Mountpleasant to the first ridge of mountains,
+called "the chestnut ridge." I determined on crossing the mountains on
+foot; and after having made arrangements to that effect, I commenced
+sauntering along the road. Near Mountpleasant, I stopped to dine at the
+house of a Dutchman by descent. After dinner, the party adjourned, as is
+customary, to the bar-room, when divers political and polemical topics
+were canvassed with the usual national warmth. An account of his late
+Majesty's death was inserted in a Philadelphia paper, and happened to be
+noticed by one of the politicians present, when the landlord asked me how
+we elected our king in England. I replied that he was not elected, but
+that he became king by birthright, &c. A Kentuckian observed, placing his
+leg on the back of the next chair, "That's a kind of unnatural." An
+Indianian said, "I don't believe in that system myself." A third--"Do you
+mean to tell me, that because the last king was a smart man and knew his
+duty, that his son, or his brother, should be a smart man, and fit for the
+situation?" I explained that we had a premier, ministers, &c.;--when the
+last gentleman replied, "Then you pay half-a-dozen men to do one man's
+business. Yes--yes--that may do for Englishmen very well; but, I guess, it
+would not go down here--no, no, Americans are a little more enlightened
+than to stand that kind of wiggery." During this conversation, a person
+had stepped into the room, and had taken his seat in silence. I was about
+to reply to the last observations of my antagonist, when this gentleman
+opened out, with, "yes! that may do for Englishmen very well"--he was an
+Englishman, I knew at once by his accent, and I verily believe the
+identical radical who set the village of Bracebridge by the ears, and
+pitched the villagers to the devil, on seeing them grin through a
+horse-collar, when they should have been calculating the interest of the
+national debt, or conning over the list of sinecure placemen. He held in
+his hand, instead of "Cobbett's Register," the "Greenville
+Republican."--He had substituted for his short-sleeved coat, "a
+round-about."--He seemed to have put on flesh, and looked somewhat more
+contented. "Yes, yes," he says, "that may do for Englishmen very well, but
+it won't do here. Here we make our own laws, and we keep them too. It may
+do for Englishmen very well, to have _the liberty_ of paying taxes for the
+support of the nobility. To have _the liberty_ of being incarcerated in a
+gaol, for shooting the wild animals of the country. To have _the liberty_
+of being seized by a press-gang, torn away from their wives and families,
+and flogged at the discretion of my lord Tom, Dick, or Harry's bastard."
+At this, the Kentuckian gnashed his teeth, and instinctively grasped his
+hunting-knife;--an old Indian doctor, who was squatting in one corner of
+the room, said, slowly and emphatically, as his eyes glared, his nostrils
+dilated, and his lip curled with contempt--"The Englishman is a
+dog"--while a Georgian slave, who stood behind his master's chair, grinned
+and chuckled with delight, as he said--"_poor_ Englishman, him meaner man
+den black nigger."--"To have," continued the Englishman, "_the liberty_ of
+being transported for seven years for being caught learning the use of the
+sword or the musket. To have the tenth lamb, and the tenth sheaf seized,
+or the blanket torn from off his bed, to pay a bloated, a plethoric bishop
+or parson,--to be kicked and cuffed about by a parcel of 'Bourbon
+_gendarmerie_'--Liberty!--why hell sweat"--here I--slipped out at the side
+door into the water-melon patch. As I receded, I heard the whole party
+burst out into an obstreperous fit of laughter.--A few broken sentences,
+from the Kentuckian and the radical, reached my ear, such as "backed
+out"--"damned aristocratic." I returned in about half an hour to pay my
+bill, when I could observe one or two of those doughty politicians who
+remained, leering at me most significantly. However, I--"smiled, and said
+nothing."
+
+"The Chestnut ridge" is a chain of rocky, barren mountains, covered with
+wood, and the ascent is steep and difficult. It is named from the quantity
+of chestnut trees that compose the bulk of its timber. Being a little
+fatigued in ascending, I sat down in a wood of scrub oak. When I had been
+some time seated on a large stone, my ear caught the gliding of a snake.
+Turning quickly, I perceived, at about a yard's distance, a reptile of
+that beautiful species the rattle-snake. He ceased moving: I jumped up,
+and struck at his head with a stick, but missed the blow. He instantly
+coiled and rattled. I now retreated beyond the range of his spring.
+Perceiving that I had no intention of giving him fair play by coming
+within his reach, he suddenly uncoiled and glid across a log, thinking to
+make good his retreat; but being determined on having--not his scalp, for
+the head of a rattle-snake is rather a dangerous toy--but his rattle, I
+pursued him across the log. He now coiled again, and rattled most
+furiously, thus indicating his extreme wrath at being attacked: the bite
+of this reptile is most venomous when he is most enraged. I took up a flat
+stone, about six inches square, and lobbed it on his coil. He suddenly
+darted out towards me; but, as I had anticipated, he was encumbered with
+the stone. I now advanced, and struck him on the head with my stick. I
+repeated the blow until he seemed to be deprived of sensation, when I drew
+my hunting knife and decapitated him. For a full hour afterwards the body
+retained all the vigour and sensitiveness which it possessed previous to
+decapitation, and on touching any part of it, would twist round in the
+same manner as when the animal was perfect. Sensation gradually
+disappeared, departing first from the extremities--more towards the
+wounded extremity than towards the other, but gradually from both, until
+it was entirely gone. The length of this reptile was about four feet, and
+the skin was extremely beautiful. Nothing could exceed the beauty of his
+eye. A clear black lustre characterizes the eye of this animal, and is
+said to produce so powerful an effect on birds and smaller animals, as to
+deprive them of the power of escaping. This snake had eight rattles, so
+that he must have been at least eleven years old. I understood afterwards
+that there was a rattle-snakes' den in the neighbourhood. They appear to
+live in society, and the large quantities that are frequently found
+congregated together are astonishing. The Jacksonville (Illinois) Gazette
+of the 22d April, 1830, says, "Last week, a den of rattle-snakes was
+discovered near Apple Creek, by a person while engaged in digging for rock
+in that part of our country. He made known the circumstance to the
+neighbours, who visited the place, where they killed 193 rattle-snakes,
+the largest of which (as our informant, who was on the spot, told us)
+measured nearly four feet in length. Besides these, there were sixteen
+black snakes destroyed, together with one copper-head. Counting the young
+ones, there were upwards of 1000 killed." There are two species of
+rattle-snake, which are in constant hostility with each other. The common
+black snake, whose bite is perfectly innoxious, and the copper-head, have
+also a deadly enmity towards the rattle-snake, which, when they meet it,
+they never fail to attack.
+
+The next ridge of mountains is called the "laurel hills," which are
+covered with an immense growth of different species of laurel. Between
+these and the Alleghany ridge are situated "the glades"--beautiful fertile
+plains in a high state of cultivation. This district is most healthy, and
+fevers and agues are unknown to the inhabitants. Here the "Delawares of
+the hills" once roamed the sole lords of this fine country; and perhaps
+from the very eminence from whence I contemplated the beauty of the scene,
+some warrior, returning from the "war path" or the chase, may have gazed
+with pleasure on the hills of his fathers, the possessions of a long line
+of Sylvan heros, and in the pride of manhood said--'The Delawares are
+men--they are strong in battle, and cunning on the trail of their foes--at
+the 'council fire' there is wisdom in their words. Who counts more scalps
+than the Lenni Lenapé warrior?--he can never be conquered--the stranger
+shall never dwell in his glades.' Where now is the "Delaware of the
+hills?"--gone!--his very name is unknown in his own land, and not a
+vestige remains to tell that _there_ once dwelt a great and powerful
+tribe. When the white man falls, his high towers and lofty battlements are
+laid crumbling with the dust, yet these mighty ruins remain for ages,
+monuments of his former greatness: but the Indian passes away, silent as
+the noiseless tread of the moccasin--the next snow comes, and his "trail"
+is blotted out for ever.
+
+I toiled across the Alleghanies, which are completely covered with timber,
+and passed on to a place within about thirty miles of Chambersburg, on a
+branch of the Potomac. Here, coming in upon _civilization_, I took the
+stage to Baltimore. In my pedestrian excursion the road lay for several
+miles along the banks of the Juniata, which is a very fine river. The
+scenery is romantic, and is much beautified by a large growth of
+magnificent pines. The Alleghany ridge is composed chiefly of sand-stone,
+clay-slate, and lime-stone-slate, sand-stone sometimes in large blocks.
+
+I encountered several parties of French, Irish, Swiss, Bavarians, Dutch,
+&c. going westward, with swarms of children, and considerable quantities
+of household lumber:--symptoms of seeking _El dorado_.
+
+In the neighbourhood of Baltimore there are many handsome residences, and
+the farms are all well cleared, and in many cases walled in. The number of
+comparatively miserable-looking cabins which are dispersed along the road
+near this town, and the long lists of crimes and misdemeanours with which
+the Journals of Baltimore and Philadelphia are filled, sufficiently
+indicate that these cities have arrived to an advanced state of
+civilization. For, wherever there are very rich people, there must be very
+poor people; and wherever there are very poor people, there must
+necessarily exist a proportionate quantity of crime. Men are poor, only
+because they are ignorant; for if they possessed a knowledge of their own
+powers and capabilities, they would then know, that however wealth may be
+distributed, all real wealth is created by labour, and by labour alone.
+
+Baltimore is seated on the north side of the Patapsco river, within a few
+miles of the Chesapeak bay. It received its name in compliment to the
+Irish family of the Calverts. The harbour, at Fell Point, has about
+eighteen feet water, and is defended by a strong fort, called Mc Henry's
+fort, on Observation Hill. Vessels of large tonnage cannot enter the
+basin. In 1791 it contained 13,503 inhabitants; in 1810, 46,487; and at
+present it contains 80,519. There are many fine buildings and monuments in
+this city; and the streets in which business is not extensively
+transacted, are planted with Lombardy poplar, locust, and pride-of-china
+trees,--the last mentioned especially afford a fine shade.
+
+A considerable schooner trade is carried on by the merchants of Baltimore
+with South America. The schooners of this port are celebrated for their
+beauty, and are much superior to those of any other port on the Continent.
+They are sharp built, somewhat resembling the small Greek craft one sees
+in the Mediterranean. A rail-road is being constructed from this place to
+the Ohio river, a distance of upwards of three hundred miles, and about
+fourteen miles of the road is already completed, as is also a viaduct. If
+the enterprising inhabitants of Baltimore be able to finish this
+undertaking, it must necessarily throw a very large amount of wealth into
+their hands, to the prejudice of Philadelphia and New York. But the
+expense will be enormous.
+
+I left Baltimore for Philadelphia in one of those splendid and spacious
+steam-boats peculiar to this country. We paddled up the Chesapeak bay
+until we came to Elk river--the scenery at both sides is charming. A
+little distance up this river commences the "Chesapeak and Delaware
+canal," which passes through the old state of Delaware, and unites the
+waters of the two bays. Here we were handed into a barge, or what we in
+common parlance would term a large canal boat; but the Americans are the
+fondest people in the universe of big names, and ransack the Dictionary
+for the most pompous appellations with which to designate their works or
+productions. The universal fondness for European titles that obtains here,
+is also remarkable. The president, is "his excellency,"--"congressmen,"
+are "honorables,"--and every petty merchant, or "dry-goods store-keeper,"
+is, at least, an esquire. Their newspapers contain many specimens of this
+love of monarchical distinctions--such as, "wants a situation, as
+store-keeper (shopman), a gentleman, &c." "Two gentlemen were convicted
+and sentenced to six months' imprisonment for horse-stealing, &c." These
+two items I read myself in the papers of the western country, and the
+latter was commented on by a Philadelphia journal. You may frequently see
+"Miss Amanda," without shoes or stockings--certainly for convenience or
+economy, not from necessity, and generally in Dutch houses--and "that
+_ere_ young lady" scouring the pails! An accident lately occurred in one
+of the factories in New England, and the local paper stated, that "one
+young lady was seriously injured,"--this young lady was a spinner.
+Observe, I by no means object to the indiscriminate use of the terms
+_gentleman_ and _lady_, but merely state the fact. On the contrary, so far
+am I from finding fault with the practice, that I think it quite fair;
+when any portion of republicans make use of terms which properly belong to
+a monarchy, that all classes should do the same, it being unquestionably
+their right. It does not follow, because a man may be introduced as an
+_American gentleman_, that he may not be simply a mechanic.
+
+The Chesapeak and Delaware canal is about fourteen miles in length; and
+from the nature of the soil through which it is cut, there was some
+difficulty attending the permanent security of the work. On reaching the
+Delaware, we were again handed into a steamer, and so conducted to
+Philadelphia. The merchant shipping, and the numerous pleasure and
+steam-boats, and craft of every variety, which are constantly moving on
+the broad bosom of the Delaware, present a gay and animated scene.
+
+Philadelphia is a regular well-built city, and one of the handsomest in
+the states. It lies in latitude 39° 56' north, and longitude, west of
+London, 75° 8'; distant from the sea, 120 miles. The city stands on an
+elevated piece of ground between the Schuylkill and Delaware rivers, about
+a mile broad from bank to bank, and six miles from their junction. The
+Delaware is about a mile wide at Philadelphia, and ships of the largest
+tonnage can approach the wharf. The city contains many fine buildings of
+Schuylkill marble. The streets are well paved, and have broad _trottoirs_
+of hard red brick. The police regulations are excellent, and cleanliness
+is much attended to, the kennels being washed daily during the summer
+months, with water from the reservoirs. The markets, or shambles, extend
+half-a-mile in length, from the wharf up Market-street, in six divisions.
+In addition to the shambles, farmers' waggons, loaded with every kind of
+country produce for sale, line the street.
+
+There are five banking establishments in the city: the Bank of North
+America, the United States Bank, the Bank of Pennsylvania, the Bank of
+Philadelphia, and the Farmers' Bank.
+
+The principal institutions are, the Franklin library, which contains
+upwards of 20,000 volumes. Strangers are admitted gratis, and are
+permitted to peruse any of the books. The Americans should adopt this
+practice in all their national exhibitions, and rather copy the liberality
+of the French than the sordid churlishness of the English, who compel
+foreigners to pay even for seeing the property of the nation. The other
+institutions are, the University of Pennsylvania, a College, Medical
+Theatre, College of Physicians, Philosophical Hall, Agricultural and
+Linnean Societies, Academy of Fine Arts, and the Cincinnati Society, which
+originated in an attempt to establish a sort of aristocracy. The members
+were at its formation the surviving officers of the revolution; they wear
+an eagle, suspended by a ribbon, which, at their death, they have
+appointed to be taken by their eldest sons. There are besides, the
+Academies of the Philadelphian Friends, and the German Lutherans; Sunday
+and Lancasterian schools; and, of course, divers Bible and Tract
+Societies, which are patronized by all the antiquated dames in the city,
+and superintended by the Methodist and Presbyterian parsons. The Methodist
+parsons of this country have the character of being men of gallantry; and
+indeed, from the many instances I have heard of their propensity in this
+way, from young Americans, I should be a very sceptic to doubt the fact.
+
+There are also St. George's, St. Patrick's, St. David's, and St. Andrew's
+Societies for the relief and colonization of British emigrants; a French
+and a German Emigrant Society, and several hospitals. There are two
+theatres and an amphitheatre. Peal's Museum contains a large collection,
+which is scientifically arranged; among other fossils is the perfect
+skeleton of a mammoth, found in a bed of marle in the state of New York.
+The length of this animal, from the bend of the tusks to the rump, was
+about twenty-seven feet, and the height and bulk proportionate.
+
+The navy-yard contains large quantities of timber, spars, and rigging,
+prepared for immediate use, as also warlike stores of every description.
+There is here, a ship of 140 guns, of large calibre, and a frigate. Both
+are housed completely, and in a condition to be launched in a few months,
+if necessary. They are constructed of the very best materials, and in the
+most durable and solid manner. There are now being constructed, seriatim,
+twenty-five ships of the line--one for every state in the Union. The
+government occasionally sells the smaller vessels of war to merchants, in
+order to increase the shipping, and to secure that those armed vessels
+which are afloat, may be in the finest possible condition. A corvette,
+completely equipped, was lately sold to his majesty the autocrat of the
+Russias; but was dismasted in a day or two after her departure from
+Charleston. She was taken in tow by the vessel of a New York merchant, and
+carried into the port of that city. The merchant refused any compensation
+from the Russian minister, although his vessel was, when she fell in with
+the wreck, proceeding to the Austral regions, and her putting about was
+greatly disadvantageous. The minister returned thanks publicly, on the
+part of his master, and expressed his majesty's sense of the invariable
+consideration and friendship with which his majesty's subjects are treated
+by the citizens of America. There appears to be a universal wish among the
+Americans to cultivate an alliance, offensive and defensive, with his
+majesty of Russia. The cry is, "all the Russians want is a fleet, and
+we'll lend them that." In fact, a deadly animosity pervades America
+towards Great Britain; and although it is not publicly confessed, for the
+Americans are too able politicians to do that, yet it is no less certain,
+that "_Delenda est Carthago_," is their motto. Let England look to it. Her
+power is great; but, if the fleets of America, France, and Russia, were to
+combine, and land on the shores of England hordes of Russians, and
+battalions of disciplined Frenchmen--if this were to be done, with the
+Irish people, instead of allies as they should be, her deadly enemies, her
+power is annihilated at a blow! For let it be remembered, that there is no
+rallying principle in the temperament of the mass of the English people;
+and that formerly one single victory,--the victory of Hastings, completely
+subjugated them. Hume, who was decidedly an impartial historian, is
+compelled to say of that conquest, "It would be difficult to find in all
+history a revolution more destructive, or attended with a more complete
+subjection of the ancient inhabitants. Contumely seems even to have been
+wantonly added to oppression; and the natives were universally reduced to
+such a state of meanness and poverty, that the English name became a term
+of reproach; and several generations elapsed before one family of Saxon
+pedigree was raised to any considerable honours, or could so much as
+obtain the rank of baron of the realm."--Yet the English people owe much
+to the ancestors of the aristocracy, who introduced among them the arts
+and refinements of civilization, and by their wisdom and disciplined
+valour have raised the country to that pitch of greatness, so justly
+termed "the envy of surrounding nations." I do not contend, that because a
+nation may have acquired the name of great, that therefore _the people_
+are more happy; but am rather inclined to think the contrary, for
+conquests are generally made and wealth is accumulated for the benefit of
+the few, and at the expense of the many.
+
+A law has been lately passed by the legislature of Pennsylvania, taxing
+wholesale and retail dealers in merchandize, excepting those importers of
+foreign goods who vend the articles in the form in which they are
+imported. This act classes the citizens according to their annual amount
+of sales, and taxes them in the same proportion. Those who effect sales to
+the amount of fifty thousand dollars, constitute the first class; of forty
+thousand dollars, the second class; of thirty thousand dollars, the third
+class; of twenty thousand dollars, the fourth class; of fifteen thousand
+dollars, the fifth class; of ten thousand dollars, the sixth class; of
+five thousand dollars, the seventh class; and all persons effecting sales
+not exceeding two thousand five hundred dollars, constitute the eighth
+class. The first class shall pay for license, annually, fifty dollars; the
+second class, forty dollars; the third class, thirty dollars; the fourth
+class, twenty-five dollars; the fifth class, twenty dollars; the sixth
+class, fifteen dollars; the seventh class, twelve dollars and fifty cents,
+and the eighth class ten dollars.
+
+Direct taxation has been found in all cases to be obnoxious, and this
+particular mode, I apprehend, is calculated to produce very pernicious
+effects. The laws of a republic should all tend to establish and support,
+as far as is practicable, the principle of equality, and any act that has
+a contrary tendency must be injurious to the community. Now this act draws
+a direct line of demarcation between citizens, in proportion to the extent
+of their dealings; and as in this country a man's importance is entirely
+estimated by his supposed wealth, the citizens of Pennsylvania can
+henceforth only claim a share of respectability, proportionate to the
+_class_ to which they belong. The west country ladies have shewn a great
+aptitude for forming "circles of society," and the promulgation of this
+law affords them a most powerful aid in establishing a _store-keeping
+aristocracy_.
+
+The large cities in America are by no means so lightly taxed as might be
+supposed from the cheapness of the government; the public works, public
+buildings, and police establishments, requiring adequate funds for their
+maintenance and support; however, the inhabitants have the consolation of
+knowing that this must gradually decrease, and that their money is laid
+out for their own advantage, and not for the purpose of pensioning off the
+mistresses and physicians of viceroys, as in Ireland.[23] Another thing is
+to be observed, that in addition to the _national_ debt, each state has a
+_private_ debt, which in many cases is tolerably large. These debts have
+been created by expenditures on roads, canals, and public buildings. The
+mode of taxation latterly adopted by the legislature is not popular, and
+many of the public prints have remonstrated against the system. "The
+Philadelphia Gazette," of the 24th Sept. 1830, makes the following
+remarks--"The subject of unequal and oppressive taxation deserves more
+attention than it has hitherto received from our citizens. The misery of
+England is occasioned less by the amount of revenue that is raised there,
+than by the manner in which it is raised. In Pennsylvania we are going on
+rapidly, making our state a second England in regard of debt and taxation.
+Our public debt is already 13,000,000 dollars; and before our canals and
+rail-roads shall be completed, it will probably amount to 18 or 20
+millions. The law imposing taxes of 10, 20, 30, 40 and 50 dollars on
+retailers, is not the only just subject of complaint. The _collateral
+inheritance_ tax is equally unjust. The tavern-keepers are besides to be
+taxed from 20 to 50 dollars each. Nor does the matter end here. At the
+next session of the legislature, it will, in all probability, be found
+necessary to lay on additional taxes: and when the principle of unjust
+taxation is once admitted in legislation, it is difficult to say how far
+it will be carried."
+
+Whilst staying at Philadelphia an account of the French revolution
+arrived, and the merchants, there and at New York, were in high spirits,
+thinking that war was inevitable. A war in Europe is always hailed with
+delight in America, as it opens a field for commercial enterprise, and
+gives employment to the shipping, of which at present they are much in
+need.
+
+During the long and ruinous war in Europe, the mercantile and shipping
+interests of the United States advanced with an unexampled degree of
+rapidity. The Americans were then the carriers of nearly all Europe, and
+scarcely any merchandize entered the ports of the belligerent powers, but
+in American bottoms. This unnatural state of prosperity could not last:
+peace was established, and from that era the decline of commerce in the
+United States may be dated. The merchants seem not to have calculated on
+this event's so soon taking place, or to have overrated the increase of
+prosperity and population in their own country, as up to that period, and
+for some years afterwards, there does appear to have been no relaxation of
+ship-building, and little diminution of mercantile speculations. At
+present the ship-owners are realizing little beyond the expenses of their
+vessels, and in many cases the bottoms are actually in debt. The frequent
+failures in the Atlantic cities, of late, are mainly to be attributed to
+unsuccessful ship speculations; and I am myself aware of more than one
+instance, where the freight was so extremely low, as to do little more
+than cover the expenditure of the voyage. On my return to Europe, while
+staying at Marseilles, twelve American vessels arrived in that port within
+the space of two months; and before my departure, nine of these returned
+to the United States with ballast (stones), and I believe only two with
+full cargos.
+
+In a national point of view, the difficulty of obtaining employment for
+the shipping of America may not have been so injurious as at first view
+it appears to be; on the contrary, I am of opinion that it has been
+advantageous. Whilst a profitable trade could with facility be carried on
+with and in Europe, the merchants seldom thought of extending their
+enterprises to any other parts of the world; but since the decline of that
+trade, communications have been opened with the East Indies, Africa, all
+the ports of the Mediterranean, and voyages to the Pacific, and to the
+Austral regions, are now of common occurrence. The museums in the Atlantic
+cities bear ample testimony to the enterprising character of the American
+merchants, which by their means are filled with all the curious and
+interesting productions of the East. This has encouraged a taste for
+scientific studies, and for travelling; which must ultimately tend to
+raise the nation to a degree of respectability little inferior to the
+oldest European state.
+
+FOOTNOTES:
+
+[23] An Irish viceroy lately paid his physician by conferring on him a
+baronetcy, and a pension of two hundred pounds a year, of the public
+money.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XI.
+
+
+Having sojourned for more than three weeks at Philadelphia, I departed for
+New York. The impressions made on my mind during that time were highly
+favourable to the Philadelphians and their city. It is the handsomest city
+in the Union; and the inhabitants, in sociability and politeness, have
+much the advantage of any other body of people with whom I came in
+contact.
+
+The steamer takes you up the Delaware river to Bordentown, in New Jersey,
+twenty-four miles from Philadelphia. The country at either side is in a
+high state of cultivation. It is interspersed with handsome country seats,
+and on the whole presents a most charming prospect. There is scarcely a
+single point passed up the windings of the Delaware, but presents a new
+and pleasing variety of landscape--luxuriant foliage--gently swelling
+hills, and fertile lawns; which last having been lately mown, were covered
+with a rich green sward most pleasing to the eye. The banks of the river
+at Bordentown are high, and the town, as seen from the water, has a pretty
+effect. Here a stage took us across New Jersey to Amboy. This is not a
+large town, nor can it ever be of much importance, being situated too near
+the cities of New York and Philadelphia. At Amboy we again took the
+steam-boat up the bay, and after a delightful sail of thirty miles,
+through scenery the most beautiful and magnificent, we arrived at New
+York.
+
+When I was at New York about fifteen months before, I was informed that
+the working classes were being organized into regular bodies, similar to
+the "union of trades" in England, for the purpose of retaining all
+political power in their own hands. This organization has taken place at
+the suggestion of Frances Wright, of whom I shall again have occasion to
+speak presently, and has succeeded to an astonishing extent. There are
+three or four different bodies of the "workies," as they call themselves
+familiarly, which vary somewhat from each other in their principles, and
+go different lengths in their attacks on the present institutions of
+society. There are those of them called "agrarians," who contend that
+there should be a law passed to prohibit individuals holding beyond a
+certain quantity of ground; and that at given intervals of time there
+should be an equal division of property throughout the land. This is the
+most ultra, and least numerous class; the absurdity of whose doctrines
+must ultimately destroy them as a body. Various handbills and placards may
+be seen posted about the city, calling meetings of these unions. Some of
+those handbills are of a most extraordinary character indeed. I shall
+here insert a copy of one, which I took off a wall, and have now in my
+possession. It may serve to illustrate the character of those clubs.
+
+THE CAUSE OF THE POOR.
+
+The Mechanics and other working men of the city of New York, and
+of _these_ such and such only as live by their own useful
+industry, who wish to retain all political power in their own
+hands;
+
+WHO ARE IN FAVOUR OF                 AND WHO ARE OPPOSED TO
+
+A just compensation for labour,      Banks and Bankers,
+
+Abolishing imprisonment for debt,    Auctions and Auctioneers,
+
+An efficient lien law,               Monopolies and
+
+A general system of education;       Monopolists of all descriptions,
+  including food, clothing
+  and instruction, equal for all,    Brokers,
+  at the public expense, _without
+  separation of children from_       Lawyers, and
+  _parents,_
+                                     Rich men for office, and to all
+Exemption from sale by execution,      those, either rich or poor,
+  of mechanics' tools and              who favour them,
+  implements sufficiently
+  extensive to enable them to        Exemption of Property from
+  carry on business:                   Taxation:
+
+
+Are invited to assemble at the Wooster-street Military Hall, on
+Thursday evening next, 16th Sept., at eight o'clock, to select by
+Ballot, from among the persons proposed on the 6th Instant,
+Candidates for Governor, Lieutenant-Governor, Senator, and a New
+Committee of Fifty, and to propose Candidates for Register, for
+Members of Congress, and for Assembly.
+
+By order of the Committee of Fifty.
+
+JOHN R. SOPER, _Chairman_. JOHN TUTHILL, _Secretary_.
+
+So far for the "Workies;" and now for Miss Wright. If I understand this
+lady's principles correctly, they are strictly Epicurean. She contends,
+that mankind have nothing whatever to do with any but this tangible
+world;--that the sole and only legitimate pursuit of man, is terrestrial
+happiness;--that looking forward to an ideal state of existence, diverts
+his attention from the pleasures of this life--destroys all real sympathy
+towards his fellow-creatures, and renders him callous to their sufferings.
+However different the _theories_ of other systems may be, she contends
+that the _practice_ of the world, in all ages and generations, shews that
+this is the _effect_ of their inculcation. These are alarming doctrines;
+and when this lady made her _debût_ in public, the journals contended that
+their absurdity was too gross to be of any injury to society, and that in
+a few months, if she continued lecturing, it would be to empty benches.
+
+The editor of "The New York Courier and Enquirer" and she have been in
+constant enmity, and have never failed denouncing each other when
+opportunity offered. Miss Wright sailed from New York for France, where
+she still remains, in the month of July, 1830; and previous to her
+departure delivered an address, on which "the New York Enquirer" makes the
+following observations:--
+
+"The parting address of Miss Wright at the Bowery Theatre, on Wednesday
+evening, was a singular _melange_ of politics and impiety--eloquence and
+irreligion--bold invective, and electioneering slang. The theatre was very
+much crowded, probably three thousand persons being present; and what was
+the most surprising circumstance of the whole, is the fact, that about
+_one half of the audience were females--respectable females_.
+
+"When Fanny first made her appearance in this city as a lecturer on the
+'new order of things,' she was very little visited by respectable females.
+At her first lecture in the Park Theatre, about half a dozen appeared; but
+these soon left the house. From that period till the present, we had not
+heard her speak in public; but her doctrines, and opinions, and
+philosophy, appear to have made much greater progress in the city than we
+ever dreamt of. Her fervid eloquence--her fine action--her _soprano-toned_
+voice--her bold and daring attacks upon all the present systems of
+society--and particularly upon priests, politicians, bankers, and
+aristocrats as she calls them, have raised a party around her of
+considerable magnitude, and of much fervour and enthusiasm."
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+"The present state of things in this city is, to say the least of it,
+very singular. A bold and eloquent woman lays siege to the very
+foundations of society--inflames and excites the public mind--declaims
+with vehemence against every thing religious and orderly, and directs the
+whole of her movements to accomplish the election of a ticket next fall,
+under the title of the 'working-man's ticket.'[24] She avows that her
+object is a thorough and radical reform and change in every relation of
+life--even the dearest and most sacred. Father, mother, husband, wife,
+son, and daughter, in all their delicate and endearing relationships, are
+to be swept away equally with clergymen, churches, banks, parties, and
+benevolent societies. Hundreds and hundreds of respectable families, by
+frequenting her lectures, give countenance and currency to these startling
+principles and doctrines. Nearly the whole newspaper press of the city
+maintain a death-like silence, while the great Red Harlot of Infidelity is
+madly and triumphantly stalking over the city, under the mantle of
+'working-men,' and making _rapid progress_ in her work of ruin. If a
+solitary newspaper raise a word in favour of public virtue and private
+morals, in defence of the rights, liberties, and property of the
+community, it is denounced with open bitterness by some, and secretly
+stabbed at by them who wish to pass for good citizens. Miss Wright says
+she leaves the city soon. This is a mere _ruse_ to call her followers
+around her. The effect of her lectures is already boasted of by her
+followers. 'Two years ago,' say they,--'_twenty persons_ could scarcely be
+found in New York who would openly avow infidelity--now we have _twenty
+thousand_.--Is not that something?'
+
+"We say it is something--something that will make the whole city think."
+
+On the day of my departure for Europe, is was announced to the merchants
+of New York, that the West India ports were opened to American vessels.
+
+This is a heavy blow to the interests of the British colonies; and it does
+not appear that even Great Britain _herself_ has received any equivalent
+for inflicting so serious an injury on a portion of the empire by no means
+unimportant. The Canadians and Nova Scotians found a market for their
+surplus produce in the West Indies, for which they took in return the
+productions of these islands--thus a reciprocal advantage was derived to
+the sister colonies. But now, from the proximity of the West Indies to the
+Atlantic cities of the United States, American produce will be poured into
+these markets, for which, in return, little else than specie will be
+brought back to the ports of the Republic.
+
+It may be said, that an equivalent has been obtained by the removal of
+restrictions hitherto laid on British shipping. This I deny is any thing
+like an equivalent, as the trade with America is carried on almost
+exclusively in American bottoms. I particularly noted at New Orleans,
+Baltimore, Philadelphia, and New York, the paucity of British vessels in
+those ports; and ascertained that it was the practice among American
+merchants, who it must be observed are nearly all extensive ship-owners,
+to withhold cargos, even at some inconvenience, from foreign vessels, and
+await the arrival of those of their own country. I do not positively
+assert that the ships of _any other_ nation are preferred to those of
+England; but, as far as my personal observations on that point have gone,
+I am strongly inclined to think that such is the fact.
+
+The mercantile and shipping interests of Great Britain must continue to
+decline, if the government suffers itself continually to be cajoled into
+measures of this nature, and effects treaties the advantages of which
+appear to be all on one side, and in lieu of its concessions receives no
+just equivalent; unless a little empty praise for "liberal policy" and
+"generosity," can be so termed. I am well aware that it may have been of
+some small advantage to the West Indies to be enabled to obtain their
+supplies from the United States; but with reference to the policy of the
+measure, I speak only of the empire at large. Nearly all the Canadians
+with whom I conversed, freely acknowledged that they have not shaken off
+the yoke of England, only because they enjoyed some advantages by their
+connexion with her: but as these are diminished, the ties become loosened,
+and at length will be found too weak to hold them any longer. Disputes
+have already arisen between the people and the government relative to
+church lands, which appropriations they contend are unjust and dishonest.
+
+No doubt the question of tariff duties on the raw material imported into
+England, is one of great delicacy as connected with the manufacturing
+interests of the country; yet it does appear to me, that a small duty
+might without injury be imposed on American cottons _imported in American
+bottoms_. This would afford considerable encouragement to the shipping of
+Great Britain and her colonies, and could by no means be injurious to the
+manufacturing interests. The cottons of the Levant have been latterly
+increasing in quantity, and a measure of this nature would be likely to
+promote their further and rapid increase; which is desirable, as it would
+leave us less dependent on America, than we now are, for the raw material.
+The shipping of America is not held by the cotton-growing states; and
+although the nationality of the southerns is no doubt great, yet their
+love of self-interest is much greater, and would always preponderate in
+their choice of vessels. It would be even better, if found necessary, to
+make some arrangement in the shape of draw-back, than that a nation which
+has imposed a duty on our manufactured goods, almost amounting to a
+prohibition, should reap so much advantage from our system of "liberal and
+generous" policy. I shall conclude these _rambling_ sketches by
+observing, that there are two things eminently remarkable in America: the
+one is, that every American from the highest to the lowest, thinks the
+Republican form of government _the best;_ and the other, that the
+seditious and rebellious of all countries become there the most peaceable
+and contented citizens.
+
+We sailed from New York on the 1st of October, 1830. The monotony of a sea
+voyage, with unscientific people, is tiresome beyond description. The
+journal of a single day is the history of a month. You rise in the
+morning, and having performed the necessary ablutions, mount on
+deck,--"Well Captain, how does she head?"--"South-east by east"--(our
+course is east by south).--"Bad, bad, Captain--two points off." You then
+promenade the quarter-deck, until the black steward arrests your
+progress--grins in your face, and announces breakfast. Down you go, and
+fall foul of ham, beef, _pommes de terre frites_, jonny-cakes, and _café
+sans lait;_ and generally, in despite of bad cooking and occasional
+lee-lurches, contrive to eat an enormous meal. Breakfast being despatched,
+you again go on deck--promenade--gaze on the clouds--then read a little,
+if perchance you have books with you--lean over the gunwale, watching the
+waves and the motion of the vessel; but the eternal water, clouds, and
+sky--sky, clouds, and water, produce a listlessness that nothing can
+overcome. In the Atlantic, a ship in sight is an object which arouses the
+attention of all on board--to speak one is an aera, and furnishes to the
+captain and mates a subject for the day's conversation. Thus situated, an
+occasional spell of squally weather is by no means uninteresting:--the
+lowering aspect of the sky--the foaming surges, which come rolling on,
+threatening to overwhelm the tall ship, and bury her in the fathomless
+abyss of the ocean--the laugh of the gallant tars, when a sea sweeps the
+deck and drenches them to the skin--all these incidents, united, rather
+amuse the voyager, and tend to dispel the inanity with which he is
+afflicted. During these periods, I have been for hours watching the
+motions of the "stormy petrel" (_procellaria pelagica_), called by
+sailors, "mother Carey's chickens." These birds are seldom seen in calm
+weather, but appear to follow the gale, and when it blows most heavily
+they are seen in greatest numbers. The colour is brown and white; the size
+about that of the swallow, whose motions oh the wing they resemble. They
+skim over the surface of the roughest sea, gliding up and down the
+undulations with astonishing swiftness. When they observe their prey, they
+descend flutteringly, and place the feet and the tips of the wings on the
+surface of the water. In this position I have seen many of them rest for
+five or six seconds, until they had completed the capture. The petrel is
+to be seen in all parts of the Atlantic, no matter how distant from land;
+and the oldest seaman with whom I have conversed on the subject, never saw
+one of them rest. Humboldt says, that in the Northern Deserta, the
+petrels hide in rabbit burrows.
+
+A few days' sail brought us into the "Gulf stream," the influence of which
+is felt as high as the 43° north latitude. We saw a considerable quantity
+of _fucus natans_, or gulf weed, but it generally was so far from the
+vessel, that I could not contrive to procure a sprig. Mr. Luccock, in his
+Notes on Brazil, says, that "if a nodule of this weed, taken fresh from
+the water at night, is hung up in a small cabin, it emits phosphorescent
+light enough to render objects visible." He describes the leaves of this
+plant as springing from the joints of the branches, oblong, indented at
+the edges, about an inch and a half long, and a quarter of an inch broad.
+Humboldt's description is somewhat different: he calls it the "vine-leaved
+fucus;" says, "the leaves are circular, of a _tender_ green, and indented
+at the edges, stem brown, and three inches long."--What I saw of this
+weed rather agrees with that described by Humboldt--the leaves were
+shaped like the vine leaf, and of a rusty-green colour. That portion of
+the Atlantic between the 22d and 34th parallels of latitude, and 26th and
+58th meridians of longitude, is generally covered with fuci, and is termed
+by the Portuguese, _mar do sargasso_, or grassy sea. It was supposed by
+many, from the large quantities of this weed seen in the Gulf stream, that
+it grew on the Florida rocks, and by the influence and extension of the
+current, was detached and carried into this part of the Atlantic. However,
+this position is not tenable, as a single branch of fucus has never been
+found on the Florida reef. Humboldt, and other scientific men, are of
+opinion that this weed vegetates at the bottom of the ocean--that being
+detached from its root, it rises to the surface; and that such portion of
+it as is found in the stream, is drawn thither by the sweeping of the
+current along the edge of the weedy sea. Moreover, the fuci that are
+found in the northern extremity of the Florida stream are generally
+decayed, while those which are seen in the southern extremity appear quite
+fresh--this difference would not exist if they emanated from the Gulf.
+
+We stood to the north of the Azores, with rather unfavourable winds, and
+at length came between the coast of Africa and Cape St. Vincent. Here we
+had a dead calm for four entire days. The sky was perfectly cloudless, and
+the surface of the ocean was like oil. Not being able to do better, we got
+out the boat and went turtle fishing, or rather catching, in company with
+a very fine shark, which thought proper to attend us during our excursion.
+In such weather the turtles come to the surface of the water to sleep and
+enjoy the solar heat, and if you can approach without waking them, they
+fall an easy prey, being rendered incapable of resistance by their shelly
+armour. We took six. Attached to the breast of one was a remora, or
+"sucking fish." The length of this animal is from six to eight
+inches--colour blackish--body, scaleless and oily--head rather flat, on
+the back of which is the sucker, which consists of a narrow oval-shaped
+margin with several transverse projections, and ten curved rays extending
+towards the centre, but not meeting. The Indians of Jamaica and Cuba
+employed this fish as falconers do hawks. In calm weather, they carried
+out those which they had kept and fed for the purpose, in their canoes,
+and when they had got to a sufficient distance, attached the remora to the
+head of the canoe by a strong line of considerable length. When the remora
+perceives a fish, which he can do at a considerable distance, he darts
+away with astonishing rapidity, and fastens upon it. The Indian lets go
+the line, to which a buoy is attached to mark the course the remora has
+taken, and follows in his canoe until he thinks the game is exhausted; he
+then draws it gradually in, the remora still adhering to his prey. Oviedo
+says, "I have known a turtle caught by this method, of a bulk and weight
+which no single man could support."
+
+For four days we were anxiously watching for some indications of a breeze,
+but were so frequently deceived with "cat's paws," and the occasional
+slight flickering of the dog vane, that we sank into listless resignation.
+At length our canvass filled, and we soon came within sight of the Straits
+of Gibraltar. On our left was the coast of Spain, with its vineyards and
+white villages; and on our right lay the sterile hills of Barbary.
+Opposite Cape Trafalgar is Cape Spartel, a bold promontory, on the west
+side of which is a range of basaltic pillars. The entrance to the
+Mediterranean by the Straits, when the wind is unfavourable, is extremely
+difficult; but to pass out is almost impossible, the current continually
+setting in through the centre of the passage. Hence, onwards, the sail was
+extremely pleasant, being within sight of the Spanish coast, and the
+Islands of Yvica, Majorca, and Minorca, successively, until we reached
+the Gulf of Lyons. When the northerly wind blows, which, in Provence, is
+termed the _mistral_, the waves roll against the coast of Provence, and
+the recoil produces that ugly chopping sea for which this gulf is
+renowned. In the Mediterranean, even in the calmest weather, a light
+pleasant breeze springs up after sunset; this and the cloudless sky, and
+unobscured brilliancy of the stars, are attractions sufficient to allure
+the most somnolent and unromantic mortal to remain on deck.
+
+The molusca, or oceanic insect, which emits a phosphorescent light,
+appeared here in vast quantities, which induced me to try experiments. I
+took a piece of black crape, and having folded it several times, poured
+some sea water taken fresh in a bucket, upon it: the water in the bucket,
+when agitated by the hand, gave out sparkling light. When the crape was
+thoroughly saturated with water, I took it to a dark part of the cabin,
+when it seemed to be studded with small sparkling stars; but more of the
+animals I could not then discern. Next day I put some water in a glass
+tumbler, and having exposed it to a strong solar light, with the help of a
+magnifying glass was enabled distinctly to discern the moluscae. When
+magnified, they appeared about the size of a pin's head, of a yellowish
+brown colour, rather oval-shaped, and having tentaculae. The medusa is a
+genus of molusca; and I think M. le Seur told me he reckons forty-three or
+forty-four species of that genus.
+
+We crossed the Gulf of Lyons, and came within the road of Marseilles,
+where we were taken charge of by a pilot. When we reached the mouth of the
+basin, a boat came alongside of us, and a man handed up a piece of wood,
+and said, "Mettez sur cela le nom du capitaine et du batiment;"--we were
+to perform quarantine. Whoever has performed quarantine can commiserate
+our condition. No one can quit the quarantine ground, or rather the space
+in the harbour alloted to vessels performing quarantine. If it be
+necessary to send any papers from the ship on shore, they are taken with a
+forceps and plunged into vinegar. If the sails of any other vessel touch
+those of one in quarantine, she too must undergo several days' probation.
+Our time was five days; but as we had clean bills of health, and had lost
+none of our crew on the passage, we were allowed to count the day of our
+entering and the day of our going out of quarantine. The usual ceremonies
+being performed, I again stepped on European ground, and felt myself at
+home.
+
+FOOTNOTES:
+
+[24] The "Education ticket," that of the "workies," carried every thing
+before it in New York and the adjoining states, at the election of
+members of congress, &c.
+
+
+
+
+APPENDIX.
+
+
+
+NEW CENSUS OF THE UNITED STATES.
+
+An abstract of a "careful revision of the enumeration of the United States
+for the years 1790, 1800, 1810, 1820, and 1830," compiled at the
+Department of State, agreeably to law; and an ABSTRACT from the Aggregate
+Returns of the several Marshals of the United States of the "Fifth
+Census."
+
+STATES.             1790.     1800.     1810.     1820.      1830.
+Maine              96,540   151,719   228,705   298,335    399,463
+New Hampshire     141,899   183,762   214,360   244,161    269,533
+Massachusetts     378,717   423,243   472,040   523,287    610,014
+Rhode Island       69,110    69,122    77,031    83,059     97,210
+Connecticut       258,141   231,002   262,042   275,202    297,011
+Vermont            85,416   154,465   217,713   233,764    280,679
+New York          340,120   586,756   959,049 1,372,812  1,913,508
+New Jersey        184,139   211,949   245,555   277,575    320,778
+Pennsylvania      434,373   602,365   810,091 1,049,458  1,347,672
+Delaware           59,096    64,273    72,674    72,749     76,739
+Maryland          319,728   341,548   380,546   407,350    446,913
+D. Columbia           --     14,093    24,023    33,039     39,588
+Virginia          748,308   880,200   974,622 1,065,379  1,211,266
+N. Carolina       393,751   478,103   555,500   638,829    738,470
+S. Carolina       249,073   345,591   415,115   502,741    581,458
+Georgia            82,548   162,101   252,433   340,987    516,504
+Kentucky           73,077   220,955   406,511   564,317    688,844
+Tennessee          35,791   105,602   231,727   422,813    684,822
+Ohio                  --     45,365   230,760   581,434    937,679
+Indiana               --      4,875    24,520   147,178    341,582
+Mississippi           --      8,850    40,352    75,448    136,806
+Illinois              --        --     12,233    55,211    157,575
+Louisiana             --        --     76,556   153,407    215,791
+Missouri              --        --     20,845    66,586    140,084
+Alabama               --        --        --    127,902    309,206
+Michigan              --        --      4,762     8,896     31,123
+Arkansas              --        --        --     14,273     30,383
+Florida               --        --        --        --      34,725
+                3,929,827 5,305,925 7,289,314 9,638,131 12,856,437
+
+
+INCREASE FROM 1820 TO 1830.
+
+
+                   Per Cent.                       Per Cent.
+Maine                 33,398         S. Carolina      15,657
+N. Hampshire          10,391         Georgia          51,472
+Massachusetts         16,575         Kentucky         22,066
+Rhode Island          17,157         Tennessee        62,044
+Connecticut            8,151         Ohio             61,998
+Vermont               19,005         Indiana         132,087
+New York              39,386         Mississippi      81,032
+New Jersey            15,564         Illinois        185,406
+Pennsylvania          25,416         Louisiana        40,665
+Delaware               5,487         Missouri        110,380
+Maryland               9,712         Alabama         141,574
+D. Columbia           20,639         Michigan        250,001
+Virginia              13,069         Arkansas        113,273
+N. Carolina           15,592         Florida              --
+          Average                       32,392
+
+
+
+
+EXTRACTS
+
+FROM
+
+"THE CHEROKEE PHOENIX,"
+
+OF JULY 31, 1830.
+
+_The following is part of a Letter written by a Creek Chief, from the
+Arkansas territory._
+
+"The son of General M'Intosh, (an Indian chief), with the M'Intosh party,
+held a treaty with the government, and were induced, by promises, to
+remove to Arkansas. They were promised 'a home for ever,' if they would
+select one, and that bounds should be marked off to them. This has not
+been done. They were assured that they should draw a proportionate part of
+the annuity due to the Creek nation every year. They have planted corn
+three seasons--yet they have never drawn one cent of any annuity due to
+them! Why is this? They were promised blankets, guns, ammunition, traps,
+kettles, and a _wheelwright_. They have drawn some few of each class of
+articles, and only a few--they have no wheelwright. They were poor;--but
+above this, they were promised pay for the improvements abandoned by them
+in the old nation. This they have not received. They were further assured
+that they should receive, upon their arrival on Arkansas, _thirty dollars_
+per head for each emigrant. This they have not received. But the acting
+sub-agent, in the spring 1829, finding their wants very pressing (indeed
+many of them were in a famishing condition), gave to each one his due
+bill, in the name of the agent, for the amount of bounty due them, and
+took their receipts for the amount, as vouchers for the agent, to settle
+his account by with the government. The consequence was, that the Indians,
+not regarding paper as of any real value, would go to the traders, and
+sell the due bills at what they could get for them. And the traders having
+no confidence in the promises of the government through its agents, united
+with the hazard of delay at all events, would not give the real value of
+the amount promised by the due bills. If the Indians attempted to trade
+them to the whites for cattle, or any thing which they stood in need of,
+the consequence was, that they were compelled to make a discount upon
+them. Not finding them worth as many dollars as they purported to be for,
+they were willing to let them go upon any terms, rather than keep them in
+their possession. The due bills amounted, in all, to about _twenty-one
+thousand dollars_, which due bills are now in the hands of the original
+holders, or the purchasers, but not lifted by the agent according to his
+promise. (Is not the government bound by the acts of its agent or
+attorney?). It is but fair to estimate the loss of the Indians at one
+third of the sum above stated, and this loss owing entirely to the
+government, by its agent's withholding the fulfilment of its contract with
+the M'Intosh party.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+"Mr. Joseph Brearly was left here by his father, the agent, in charge of
+his affairs, and being apprised of a party of _emigrants_ about to arrive,
+was making preparations to obtain the provisions necessary to subsist them
+for one year; and for that purpose had advertised to supply six thousand
+bushels of corn. The day came for closing the contract, when Colonel
+Arbuckle, commanding Cantonment Gibson, handed in a bid, in the name of
+the Creek nation, to furnish the amount of corn required at _one dollar
+and twelve cents_ per bushel; the next lowest bid to his was _one dollar
+and fifty cents_; so that Colonel Arbuckle saved the government 2,280
+dollars.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+"Mr. Blake, the sub-agent sent by Colonel Crowell, had superseded Mr.
+Brearly, and was engaged in giving his receipts for the corn delivered
+under the contract. A speculation was presented; and as the poor Indians
+were to be the victims of rapacity, why, it was all very well. The
+aforesaid Major Love, to secure the speculation, repaired to St. Louis,
+with _letters of credit_ from Mr. Blake, the sub-agent of Colonel Crowell,
+and purchased several thousand dollars' worth of merchandize, and so soon
+as he could reach the Creek agency, commenced purchasing the corn receipts
+issued by the sub-agent. It is reasonable to suppose that the goods were
+sold, on an average, at two hundred per centum above cost and carriage;
+and by this means the Indians would get about one third of the value of
+their corn at the contract price!--they offered to let the receipts go at
+twenty-five per cent. discount, if they could only obtain cash for them.
+
+"The United States owe the Creeks money--they have paid them none in three
+years--the money has been appropriated by congress. It is withheld by the
+agents. The Indians are destitute of almost every comfort for the want of
+what is due to them. If it is longer withheld from them, it can only be
+so, upon the grounds that the poor Indian, who is unable to compel the
+United States to a compliance with solemn treaties, must linger out a
+miserable degraded existence, while those who have power to extend to him
+the measure of justice, will be left in the _full_ possession of _all_ the
+_complacency_ arising from the solemn _assurance_, that they are either
+the _stupid_ or _guilty_ authors of his degradation and misery.
+
+"TAH-LOHN-TUS-KY.
+
+"P.S. The Creeks have sent frequent memorials, praying relief from the War
+Department; also a delegation, but can obtain no relief!!"
+
+
+
+
+_Extract from a Communication made by a Cherokee Chief._
+
+
+"A company of whites was in this neighbourhood, with forged notes and
+false accounts to a very considerable amount upon the Indians, and
+forcibly drove off the property of several families. This, Sir, is the
+cause of our misery, poverty, and degradation, for which we have been so
+much reproached. This is what makes us _poor devils_. If we fail to make
+good crops, some of the white neighbours must starve, for many of them are
+dependent upon us for support, either by fair or foul means. Some of the
+poor creatures are now travelling among us, almost starved, begging for
+something to eat--they are actually worse than Indians. If they can't get
+by begging, they steal. To make us clear of these evils, and make us happy
+for ever, the unabating avarice of some of the Georgians, by their
+repeated acts of cruelty, point us to homes in the west--but as long as we
+have a pony or a hog to spare them, we will never go, and not then. This
+land is heaven's gift to us--it is the birthright of our fathers: as long
+as these mountains lift their lofty summits to heaven, and these beautiful
+rivers roll their tides to the mighty ocean, so long we will remain. May
+heaven pity and save our distressed country!
+
+"VALLEY TOWNS."
+
+
+The following Extracts may serve to show the state of the country to which
+the Indians are compelled to emigrate:
+
+[FROM THE KENTUCKY INTELLIGENCER.]
+
+_Extract of a Letter, dated Prairie du Chien._
+
+"January 15, 1830.
+
+"There is a prospect, I think, that the Indian department in this part of
+the country will soon require efficient officers. There is little doubt
+that there will be a general and sanguinary war among the Indians in the
+spring. The outrages of the Sauks and Foxes, can be endured no longer.
+Within a short time, they have cut off the head of a young Munomonee
+Indian, at the mouth of Winconscin river--killed a Winnebago woman and
+boy, of the family of Dekaree, and a Sioux called Dixon. The whole Sioux
+nation have made arrangements for a general and simultaneous attack on the
+Foxes; the Winnebagoes, and probably the Munomonees will join them."
+
+
+"Little Rock, Ark. Ter. Feb. 5.
+
+"_Murderous Battle._--A gentleman who arrived here yesterday, direct from
+the Western Creek agency, informs us that a war party of Osages returned
+just before he left the agency, from a successful expedition against the
+Pawnee Indians. He was informed by one of the chiefs, that the party
+seized a Pawnee village, high up on the Arkansas, and had surrounded it
+before the inmates were apprised of their approach. At first the Pawnees
+showed a disposition to resist; but finding themselves greatly outnumbered
+by their assailants, soon sallied forth from their village, and took
+refuge on the margin of a lake, where they again made a stand. Here they
+were again hemmed in by the Osages, who throwing away their guns, fell
+upon them with their knives and tomahawks, and did not cease the work of
+butchery as long as any remained to resist them. Not one escaped. All were
+slain, save a few who were taken prisoners, and who are perhaps destined
+to suffer a more cruel death than those who were butchered on the spot.
+Our informant did not learn what number of Pawnees were killed, but
+understood that the Osages brought in sixty or seventy scalps, besides
+several prisoners.
+
+"We also learn, that the Osages are so much elated with this victory, that
+another war party were preparing to go on an expedition against some
+Choctaws who reside on Red river, with whom they have been at variance for
+some time past."
+
+
+_Extract of a Letter from an Officer of the Army, dated Prairie du Chien._
+
+[FROM THE NEW YORK COM. ADVERTIZER.]
+
+"May 6, 1830.
+
+"_Indian Hostilities._--When coming down the Mississippi, on the raft of
+timber, a war party of Sioux came to me and landed on the raft, but did
+not offer any violence. They were seventy strong, and well armed; and when
+they arrived at the Prairie, they were joined by thirty Menominees, and
+then proceeded down the river in pursuit of the Sauks and Foxes, who lay
+below. This morning they all returned, and reported that they had killed
+ten of the Foxes and two squaws. I saw all the scalps and other trophies
+which they had taken; such as canoes, tomahawks, knives, guns, war clubs,
+spears, &c. A paddle was raised by them in the air, on which was strung
+the head of a squaw and the scalps. They killed the head chief of the Fox
+nation, and took from them all the treaties which the nation had made
+since 1815. I saw them, and read such as I wished. One Sioux killed, and
+three wounded, was all the loss of the northern party. The Winnebagoes
+have joined with the Sioux and Menominees, and the Potawatomies have
+joined with the Sauks and Foxes. We shall have a great battle in a day or
+two."
+
+*** END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 11725 ***
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+The Project Gutenberg eBook, A Ramble of Six Thousand Miles through the
+United States of America, by S. A. Ferrall
+
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+
+
+
+Title: A Ramble of Six Thousand Miles through the United States of America
+
+Author: S. A. Ferrall
+
+Release Date: March 26, 2004  [eBook #11725]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: iso-8859-1
+
+
+***START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK A RAMBLE OF SIX THOUSAND MILES
+THROUGH THE UNITED STATES OF AMERICA***
+
+
+E-text prepared by Project Gutenberg Distributed Proofreaders
+
+
+
+A RAMBLE OF SIX THOUSAND MILES THROUGH THE UNITED STATES OF AMERICA
+
+BY S. A. FERRALL, ESQ.
+
+LONDON, 1832
+
+
+
+
+
+
+[Illustration: _Fac-simile of the first two Paragraphs of the Leading
+Article in the "CHEROKEE PHOENIX" of July 31, 1830_]
+
+
+
+PREFACE.
+
+
+The few sketches contained in this small volume were not originally
+intended for publication--they were written solely for the amusement of my
+immediate acquaintances, and were forwarded to Europe in the shape of
+letters. Subsequent considerations have induced me to publish them; and if
+they be found to contain remarks on some subjects, which other travellers
+in America have passed over unnoticed, the end that I have in view will be
+fully answered.
+
+Although I remained in the seaboard cities sufficiently long to have
+collected much information; yet knowing that the statistics of those
+places had been so often and so ably set before the public, I felt no
+inclination to trouble my friends with their repetition.
+
+In Europe, the name of America is so associated with the idea of
+emigration, that to announce an intention of crossing the Atlantic, rouses
+the interfering propensity of friends and acquaintances, and produces such
+a torrent of queries and remonstrances, as will require a considerable
+share of moral courage to listen to and resist. All are on the tiptoe of
+expectation, to hear what the inducements can possibly be for travelling
+in America. America!! every one exclaims--what can you possibly see there?
+A country like America--little better than a mere forest--the inhabitants
+notoriously far behind Europeans in refinement--filled with wild Indians,
+rattle-snakes, bears, and backwoodsmen; ferocious hogs and ugly negros;
+and every other species of noxious and terrific animal!
+
+Without, however, any definite scientific object, or indeed any motive
+much more important than a love of novelty, I determined on visiting
+America; within whose wide extent all the elements of society, civilized
+and uncivilized, were to be found--where the great city could be traced to
+the infant town--where villages dwindle into scattered farms--and these to
+the log-house of the solitary backwoodsman, and the temporary wig-wam of
+the wandering Pawnee.
+
+I have refrained nearly altogether from touching on the domestic habits
+and manners of the Americans, because they have been treated of by
+Captain Hall and others; and as the Americans always allowed me to act as
+I thought proper, and even to laugh at such of their habits as I thought
+singular, I am by no means inclined to take exception to them.
+
+
+
+
+CONTENTS.
+
+
+CHAPTER I.
+
+Sail for New York in an American vessel--the crew--ostentation of the
+Captain--a heavy gale--soundings--icebergs--bay of New York--Negros and
+Negresses--White Ladies--climate--fires--vagrant pigs--Frances
+Wright--Match between an Indian canoe and a skiff
+
+
+CHAPTER II.
+
+Depart for Albany--the Hudson--Albany--Cohoe's Falls--Rome--the Little
+Falls--forest of charred trees--"stilly night" in a swamp--fire
+fly--Rochester--Falls of Gennessee--Sam. Patch--an eccentric
+character--Falls of Niagara--the Tuscarora Indians--Buffalo--Lake
+Erie--the Iroquois--the Wyandots--death of Seneca John, and its
+consequences--ague fever--Wyandot prairie--the Delawares' mode of dealing
+with the Indians--the transporting of Negros to Canada
+
+
+CHAPTER III.
+
+Arrive at Marion--divorces--woodlands--Columbus--land offices--population,
+&c. Shaking Quakers--kidnapping free Negros--Cincinnati--the farmers of
+Ohio--a corn-husking frolic--qualifications necessary to Senators,
+Legislators, and Electors--a camp-meeting--militia officers'
+muster--Presbyterian parsons--price of land, cattle, &c.--fever and ague
+
+
+CHAPTER IV.
+
+Set out for New Harmony--the roads--a backwoodsman--the
+journey--peaches--casualties--travelling--New Harmony--M. Le
+Seur--barter--excursion down the Wabash--the co-operative
+community--Robert Owen
+
+
+CHAPTER V.
+
+Depart for St. Louis--Albion--the late Messrs. Birkbeck and
+Flowers--Hardgrove's prairie--the roads--the Grand prairie--prairie
+wolf--mode of training dogs--Elliott's inn--inhabitants of
+Illinois--ablutions--coal--soil and produce--the American Bottom--St
+Louis--monopolies--Fur companies--incivility of a certain Major--trapping
+expedition--trade with Santa Fé--lead mines--Carondalot--Jefferson
+barracks--discipline--visit to a slave-holder--the Ioway hostages--Indian
+investigation--character of the Indians.
+
+
+CHAPTER VI
+
+Leave St. Louis--Indian mounds--remains of ancient fortifications--burial
+caverns--mummies--Flint's description of a mummy--the languages of
+America--town making--the Indian summer--population, &c. of Illinois--the
+prairie hen--the Turkey buzzard--settlers--forest in autumn--a gouging
+scrape--the country--extent and population of Indiana--hogs--a settler in
+bottom land--the sugar maple--roads--a baptism
+
+
+CHAPTER VII
+
+Set out for New Orleans--Louisville--Mississippi steam-boats--the
+Ohio--the Mississippi--sugar plantations--the valley of the
+Mississippi--New Orleans--Quadroons--slavery--a Methodist slavite--runaway
+Negros--incendiary fires at Orleans--liberty of the press--laws passed by
+the legislature of Louisiana--Miss Wright--public schools--yellow
+fever--the Texas
+
+
+CHAPTER VIII.
+
+Depart for Louisville--tellandsea, or Spanish moss--Natchez--the yellow
+fever--cotton plantations--Mississippi wood-cutters--freshets--planters,
+sawyers, and snags--steam-boat blown up--the Chickesaws--hunting in
+Tennessee--electioneering--vote by ballot--trade on the Ohio and
+Mississippi rivers--the People--the President's veto--finances--government
+banks--Kentucky--the Kentuckians--court-houses--an election--universal
+suffrage--an Albino--Diluvian reliqua
+
+
+CHAPTER IX.
+
+The political condition of the Indians--Missionaries--the letter of
+Red-jacket--the speech of the wandering Pawnee chief
+
+
+CHAPTER X.
+
+Kenhawa salt-works--coal--a
+Radical--rattle-snakes--Baltimore--Philadelphia--taxation--shipping
+
+
+CHAPTER XI.
+
+"The Workies"--Miss Wright--the opening of the West India ports to
+American vessels--voyage homeward--the stormy petrel--Gulf weed--the
+remora--the molusca--quarantine
+
+
+APPENDIX
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER I.
+
+
+Following the plan I had laid down for myself, I sought and found a goodly
+Yankee merchantman, bound for and belonging to the city of New York. Our
+vessel was manned with a real _American_ crew, that is, a crew, of which
+scarcely two men are of the same nation--which conveys a tolerably correct
+notion of the population of the United States. The crew consisted of one
+Russian, one German, one Italian, one Scotchman, one Newfoundlander, one
+Irishman, two Englishmen, two New Englanders, and two Negros--the cook and
+steward. The seamen of America are better paid, and better protected,
+than those of any other nation; but work harder, and must understand their
+duty well. Indeed if we had not had a good crew, our ship, being old,
+might have suffered severely.
+
+In selecting this ship, in addition to accommodations, I only took into
+account her build; and so far was not disappointed, for when she _could_
+carry sail, she scudded along in gallant style; but with ships as with
+horses, the more they _have done_, the less they have _to do_.
+
+I had a strong impression on my mind that a person travelling in America
+as a professed tourist, would be unable to form a correct estimate of the
+real character and condition of the people; for, from their great
+nationality, they would be likely to show him the best side of every
+thing. Of this kind of ostentation I very soon had a slight proof. Our
+ship left port in gallant trim, but had no sooner gained the open sea,
+than all hands were employed in stowing away the finery, and covering the
+rigging with mats--even the very cabin doors were taken off the hinges,
+and brass knobs and other ornaments which appeared to have been fixtures,
+were unshipped and deposited below, where they remained until our approach
+to New York, when the finery was again displayed, and all was placed once
+more _in statu quo_.
+
+For the first twelve days we had rather pleasant weather, and nothing
+remarkable occurred, unless a swallow coming on board completely exhausted
+with flying, fatigue made it so tame that it suffered itself to be
+caressed; it however popped into the coop, and the ducks literally gobbled
+it up alive. The ducks were, same day, suffered to roam about the decks,
+and the pigs fell foul of one of them, and eat the breast off it. Passing
+the cabouse, I heard the negro steward soliloquising, and on looking in,
+perceived him cutting a hen's throat with the most heartfelt satisfaction,
+as he grinned and exclaimed, by way of answer to its screams, "Poor
+feller! I guess I wouldn't hurt you for de world;" I could not help
+thinking with Leibnitz, that most sapient of philosophers, that this is
+the best of all possible worlds.
+
+On the thirteenth day we encountered a heavy gale, which continued to
+increase for four successive days. During this period we were unable to
+carry more canvass than was barely necessary to render the vessel
+manageable. A heavy gale, for the first time, is rather interesting than
+otherwise: the novelty of the sea's appearance--the anxiety of the crew
+and officers--the promptitude with which commands are given and
+executed--and the excitement produced by the other incidental occurrences,
+tend to make even a storm, when encountered in open sea, by no means
+destitute of pleasing interest. During this gale, the sailors appeared to
+be more than ordinarily anxious only upon one occasion, and then only for
+a minute--the circumstance was not calculated to create alarm in the mind
+of a person totally ignorant of nautical affairs, but being somewhat of a
+sailor, I understood the danger tolerably well. The helm was struck by a
+sea, and strained at the bolts; from the concussion occasioned by the
+blow, it was apprehended for a moment that it had been carried away.
+Without a helm, in such weather, much was to be feared; for her timbers
+being old, she could hardly meet the shock of an ocean wave upon her
+broadside without suffering serious injury. The helmsman was knocked
+down--the captain and mate jumped aft, to ascertain the extent of the
+damage; while the sailors scowled along the deck, as they laid their
+shoulders to the weather side of the ship--all was anxiety for the
+instant. At length the mate cried, "helm all right," and the crew pulled
+away as usual. At the close of the fourth day the storm subsided, and we
+approached the banks of Newfoundland.
+
+It is generally supposed that the colour of the sea is a sure indication
+of the presence or absence of soundings; that is, that there are
+soundings where the water is green, and that there are none where the
+water is blue. The former is, I believe, true in every instance; but the
+latter is certainly not so, as the first soundings we got here, were in
+water as blue as indigo, depth fifty odd fathoms.
+
+We were thirty days crossing these tiresome banks; during which time we
+were befogged, and becalmed, and annoyed with all sorts of disagreeable
+weather. The fogs or mists were frequently so dense, that it was
+impossible to see more than thirty yards from the vessel. This course is
+not that usually taken by ships bound for the United States, as they
+generally cross the Atlantic at much lower latitudes, but our captain
+"calculated" on escaping calms, and avoiding the influence of the Gulf
+stream, and thus making a quicker passage; he was, however, mistaken, as a
+packet ship that left Liverpool four days after, arrived at New York
+sixteen days before us.
+
+We found the thermometer of incalculable service, both for ascertaining
+when we got into the stream, and for disclosing our dangerous proximity to
+icebergs. That we had approached near icebergs we discovered one evening
+to be the case by the mercury falling, suddenly, below 40°, in foggy
+weather. We notwithstanding held on our course, and fortunately escaped
+accident. Many vessels which depart from port with gallant crews, and are
+never heard of more, are lost, I am convinced, by fatal collision with
+these floating islands. From the beginning of spring to the latter end of
+summer, masses of brash ice are occasionally encountered in these
+latitudes.
+
+Towards the evening of the fiftieth day we entered the bay of New York:
+the bay is really beautiful, and at this season (summer) perhaps appeared
+to the greatest advantage. The numerous islands with which it is
+interspersed, were covered to the water's edge with foliage and verdure,
+and here and there studded with handsome villas. The city appeared to be
+literally surrounded by a thick grove of masts, from which floated the
+flags of many nations--the scene, thus gradually unfolding itself to the
+eyes of one who had been for so long a time immured within a vessel, was
+really fascinating.
+
+While at New York, I staid at the "Pearl-street Boarding-house," and
+experienced from Messrs. Haskell and Perry, the proprietors, the most
+polite attention. Most Europeans are astonished at the rapidity with which
+the Americans despatch their meals; but I, having admitted the
+proposition, that there was "nothing new under the sun," had long
+previously ceased to be _astonished_ at any thing. On the first day of my
+dining at the table d'hôte, one of those gentlemen told me, when we sat
+down to dinner, that most of the persons at table were men of business,
+who were in the habit of eating much quicker than he knew I was accustomed
+to, and requested that that might not in the slightest interfere with my
+habits, but that I should entirely suit my own comfort and convenience.
+After that preface, I think I should have been most unreasonable to fall
+into a passion with the New Yorkers, because they _bolted_ instead of
+masticating.
+
+New York is altogether a trading place, and different from any thing of
+the same magnitude in Europe: scarcely a single street is exclusively
+filled with private residences;--in a mercantile point of view, it is the
+Liverpool of the United States.
+
+The negros and mulattos constitute a considerable portion of the
+population. It is impossible to imagine the extreme ugliness of some of
+the sooty gentry; a decent ourang-outang might, without presumption, vie
+with many of these people, even of the _fair sex_, and an impartial judge
+should certainly decide that the said ourang-outang was the handsomer
+animal. Many of them are wealthy, and dress remarkably well. The females,
+when their shins and misshapen feet are concealed by long gowns, appear
+to have good figures. A few days after my arrival, walking down "Broadway"
+(the principal street) I was struck with the figure of a fashionably
+dressed woman, who was sauntering before me. After passing, I turned
+round, when--O angels and ministers of ugliness!--I beheld a face, as
+black as soot--a mouth that reached from ear to ear--a nose, like nothing
+human--and lips a full inch in diameter! On the following morning, whilst
+dressing at my bed-room window, I heard a squeaking sort of voice warbling
+forth, "Love was once a little Boy," and "I'd be a Butterfly." The strange
+_melody_ and unusual intonations induced me to look out, when, to my
+astonishment, I found that the _fair_ songstress was a most
+hideous-looking negress! Such are the scenes that constantly present
+themselves here, and remind a European that he is in a new region.
+
+The white ladies dress fashionably, generally _à la Françoise_; have
+straight figures, and with the help of a little cotton, judiciously
+disposed, and sometimes, the smallest possible portion of rouge, contrive
+to look rather interesting; in general, they are lamentably deficient in
+_tournure_ and _en-bon-point_. The hands and feet of the greatest belle,
+are _pas mignon_, and would be termed plebeian by the Anglo-Normans--the
+aristocracy of England. Yet I have seen many girls extremely handsome
+indeed, having a delicate bloom and fair skin; but this does not endure
+long, as the variable nature of the climate--the sudden and violent
+transitions of temperature which occur on this continent, destroy, in a
+few years, the complexion of the finest woman. When she arrives at the age
+of thirty, her skin is shrivelled and discoloured; she is thin, and has
+all the indications of premature old age. The women of England retain
+their beauty at least ten years longer than those of America.
+
+The inhabitants of that part of New York nearest the shipping, are
+extremely sallow and unhealthy looking, and many have a most cadaverous
+aspect. Malaria certainly exists here in some degree. A man will tell you
+that the city is perfectly healthy, whilst his own appearance most
+unquestionably indicates disease. I speak now of the quays and adjacent
+streets; and the cause is very apparent. The wharfs are faced with wood,
+and the retiring of the tide exposes a rotten vegetable substance to the
+action of an almost tropical sun, which, added to the filth that is
+invariably found in the neighbourhood of shipping, is quite sufficient to
+produce the degree of unhealthiness that exists. On going up the town, the
+appearance of the inhabitants gradually improves, and approaching the
+suburbs, the difference is striking,--in this district I have seen persons
+as stout and healthy looking as any in England or Ireland.
+
+On the night of my arrival, a fire broke out, by which several extensive
+warehouses were entirely consumed. There is nothing more remarkable here
+than the frequent occurrence of this calamity, except the excellent
+arrangements that are made for arresting its progress. The engines,
+apparatus, and _corps de pompiers_, are admirably maintained, and the
+promptitude and regularity with which they arrive at the scene of
+devastation truly astonishing: indeed, were this not the case, the city
+must very soon be destroyed; for notwithstanding all their exertions,
+every conflagration makes it minus several houses, and few nights pass
+without bringing a misfortune of this nature.
+
+There are several theatres, churches, and other public buildings,
+dispersed throughout the city. The City Hall, which stands near the upper
+end of a small enclosure, called the Park, is considered the handsomest
+building in the United States. It was finished in 1812, and cost half a
+million dollars.
+
+The police regulations appear not to be so severe as they ought to be, for
+droves of hogs are permitted to roam about the streets, to the terror of
+fine ladies, and the great annoyance of all pedestrians.
+
+New York was settled by the Dutch in 1615, and called by them New
+Amsterdam. In 1634, it was conquered by the English,--retaken by the Dutch
+in 1673, and restored in 1674. Its present population is estimated at
+213,000.
+
+Having heard that the celebrated Frances Wright, authoress of "A Few Days
+in Athens," was publicly preaching and promulgating her doctrines in the
+city, I determined on paying the "Hall of Science" a visit, in which
+establishment she usually lectured. The address she delivered on the
+evening I attended had been previously delivered on the fourth of July, in
+the city of Philadelphia; but, at the request of a numerous party of
+"Epicureans," she was induced to repeat it. The hall might contain perhaps
+ten or twelve hundred persons, and on this occasion it was filled to
+excess, by a well-dressed audience of both sexes.
+
+The person of Frances Wright is tall and commanding--her features are
+rather masculine, and the melancholy cast which her countenance ordinarily
+assumes gives it rather a harsh appearance--her dark chestnut hair hangs
+in long graceful curls about her neck; and when delivering her lectures,
+her appearance is romantic and unique.
+
+She is a speaker of great eloquence and ability, both as to the matter of
+her orations, and the manner of their delivery. The first sentence she
+utters rivets your attention; and, almost unconsciously, your sympathies
+are excited, and you are carried onward by the reasonings and the
+eloquence of this disciple of the Gardens. The impression made on the
+audience assembled on that occasion was really wonderful. Once or twice,
+when I could withdraw my attention from the speaker, I regarded the
+countenances of those around me, and certainly never witnessed any thing
+more striking. The high-wrought interest depicted in their faces, added to
+the breathless silence that reigned throughout the building, made the
+spectacle the most imposing I ever beheld. She was the Cumaean Sibyl
+delivering oracles and labouring under the inspiration of the God of
+Day.--This address was chiefly of a political character, and she took care
+to flatter the prejudices of the Americans, by occasionally recurring to
+the advantages their country possessed over European states--namely, the
+absence of country gentlemen, and of a church establishment; for to the
+absence of these the Americans attribute a large portion of the very great
+degree of comfort they enjoy.
+
+Near Hoboken, about three miles up North river, at the opposite side to
+New York, a match took place between a boat rowed by two watermen, and a
+canoe paddled by two Indians. The boat was long and narrow, similar in
+form to those that ply on the Thames. The canoe was of the lightest
+possible construction, being composed of thin hickory ribs covered with
+bark. In calm weather, the Indians propel these vessels through the water
+with astonishing velocity; but when the wind is high, and the water much
+disturbed, their progress is greatly impeded. It so happened on this day
+that the water was rough, and consequently unfavourable to the Aborigines.
+At the appointed signal the competitors started. For a short distance the
+Indians kept up with their rivals, but the long heavy pull of the oar soon
+enabled the boatmen to leave them at a distance. The Indians, true to
+their character, seeing the contest hopeless, after the first turn, no
+longer contended for victory; they paddled deliberately back to the
+starting place, stepped out, and carried their canoe on shore. The
+superiority of the oar over the paddle was in this contest fully
+demonstrated.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER II.
+
+
+Having determined on quitting "the London of the States," as my friends
+the Yankees call New York, I had bag and baggage conveyed on board a
+steamer bound for Albany. The arrangements and accommodations on board
+this boat were superb, and surpassed any thing of the kind I ever met with
+in Europe, on the same scale; and the groups of well-dressed passengers
+fully indicated the general prosperity of the country.
+
+The distance between New York and Albany is about 165 miles. The scenery
+on the Hudson is said to be the most beautiful of any in America, and I
+believe cannot be surpassed in any country. Many of the beauties of rich
+European scenery are to be found along the banks of that noble river. In
+the highlands, about fifty miles from New York, is West Point, on which
+stands a strong fortress, containing an arsenal, a military-school, and a
+garrison. It is romantically situated among lofty crags and mountains,
+which rise above the level of the water from 1100 to 1500 feet. There are
+many handsome country seats and villages between West Point and Hudson,
+where the river is more than a mile wide.
+
+After a passage of about sixteen or seventeen hours, we arrived at Albany.
+The charge for passage, including dinner and tea, was only three dollars;
+and the day following the cost was reduced, through the spirit of
+opposition, to one dollar.
+
+Albany is the legislative capital of New York. It is a handsome city, and
+one of the oldest in the Union. Most of the houses are built of wood,
+which, when tastefully painted (not often the case) have rather a pleasing
+appearance. The situation of this city is advantageous, both from the
+direct communication which it enjoys with the Atlantic, by means of sloops
+and schooners, and the large tract of back country which it commands. A
+trade with Canada is established by means of the Erie and Hudson canal.
+The capitol, and other public buildings, are large and handsome, and being
+constructed of either brick or stone, give the city a respectable
+appearance.
+
+Albany, in 1614, was first settled by the Dutch, and was by them called
+Orange. On its passing into the hands of the English, in 1664, its present
+name was given to it, in honour of the Duke of York. It was chartered in
+1686.
+
+From Albany I proceeded along the canal, by West Troy and Junction, and
+near the latter place we came to Cohoe's Falls, on the Mohawk. The river
+here is about 250 yards wide, which rushing over a jagged and uneven bed
+of rocks, produces a very picturesque effect. The canal runs nearly
+parallel with this river from Junction to Utica, crossing it twice, at an
+interval of seven miles, over aqueducts nearly fifty rods in length,
+constructed of solid beams of timber. The country is very beautiful, and
+for the most part well cultivated. The soil possesses every variety of
+good and bad. The farms along the canal are valuable, land being generally
+worth from fifty to a hundred dollars per acre.
+
+Above Schenectady, a very ancient town, the bed of the canal gave way,
+which of course obliged us to come to a dead halt. I hired, for myself and
+two others, a family waggon (dignified here with the appellation of
+_carriage_) to take us beyond the break, in expectation of being able to
+get a boat thence onwards, but unfortunately all the upward-bound boats
+had proceeded. We were, therefore, obliged to wait until next morning. My
+fellow travellers having light luggage, got themselves and it into a hut
+at the other side of the lock; but I, having heavy baggage, which it was
+impossible to carry across, was compelled to remain on the banks, between
+the canal and the Mohawk, all night. On the river there were several
+canoes, with fishermen spearing by torch-light; while on the banks the
+boatmen and boys, Mulattos and whites, were occupied in gambling. They had
+tables, candles, dice, and cards. With these, and with a _quantum
+sufficit_ of spirits, they contrived to while away the time until
+day-break; of course interlarding their conversation with a reasonable
+quantity of oaths and imprecations. The breach being repaired early in the
+morning, the boats came up, and we proceeded to Utica.
+
+Seven miles above Utica is seated Rome, a small and dirty town, bearing no
+possible resemblance to the "Eternal City," even in its more modern
+condition, as the residence of the "Triple Prince;" but, on the contrary,
+having, if one could judge from the habitations, every appearance of
+squalid poverty. Fifteen miles further on, we passed the Little Falls. It
+was night when we came to them, but it being moonlight, we had an
+opportunity of seeing them to advantage. The crags are here
+stupendous--irregular and massive piles of rocks, from which spring the
+lofty pine and cedar, are heaped in frightful disorder on each other, and
+give the scene a terrifically grand appearance.
+
+From Rome to Syracuse, a distance of forty-six miles, the canal is cut
+through a swampy forest, a great portion of which is composed of dead
+trees. One of the most dismal scenes imaginable is a forest of charred
+trees, which is occasionally to be met with in this country, especially in
+the route by which I was travelling. It is caused by the woods being
+fired, by accident or otherwise. The aspect of these blasted monuments of
+ruined vegetation is strange and peculiar; and the air of desertion and
+desolation which pervades their neighbourhood, reminds one of the stories
+that are told of the Upas valley of Java, for here too not a bird is to
+be seen. The smell arising from this swamp in the night, was so bad as to
+oblige us to shut all the windows and doors of the boat, which, added to
+the bellowing and croaking of the bull frogs--the harsh and incessant
+noise of the grasshoppers, and the melancholy cry of the whip-poor-will,
+formed a combination not of the most agreeable nature. Yet, in defiance of
+all this, we were induced occasionally to brave the terrors of the night,
+in order to admire that beautiful insect the fire-fly, or as it is called
+by the natives, "lightning bug." They emit a greenish phosphorescent
+light, and are seen at this season in every part of the country. The woods
+here were full of them, and seemed literally to be studded with small
+stars, which emitted a bright flickering light.
+
+After you pass Syracuse, the country begins to improve; but still it is
+low and marshy, and for the most part unhealthy, as the appearance of the
+people clearly indicates. In this country, as in every other, the canals
+are generally cut through comparatively low lands, and the low lands here,
+with few exceptions, are all swampy; however, a great deal of the
+unhealthiness which pervades this district, arises from want of attention.
+A large portion of the inhabitants are Low Dutch, who appear never to be
+in their proper element, unless when settled down in the midst of a swamp.
+They allow rotten timber to accumulate, and stagnant pools to remain about
+their houses, and from these there arises an effluvium which is most
+unpleasant in warm weather, which, however, they do not seem to perceive.
+
+We entered Rochester, through an aqueduct thirty rods in length, built of
+stone, across the Genessee river. Rochester is the handsomest town on this
+line. Some of the houses here are tastefully decorated. All the windows
+have Venetian blinds, and generally there are one or two covered balconies
+attached to the front of each house. Before the doors there are small
+_parterres_, planted with rose-trees, and other fragrant shrubs. About
+half a mile from the town are the Falls of Genessee. The water glides over
+an even bed of limestone rock, ninety-six feet above the level of the
+river below. There is a beautiful regularity in this fall, but its extreme
+uniformity divests it of picturesque effect. Here the celebrated diver,
+Sam. Patch, subsequently met his fate in diving off this precipice. He had
+performed similar feats at the Falls of Niagara, without sustaining any
+injury. He was not killed by the fall; but is supposed to have fainted
+when midway from, his leap, as his arms were observed to relax, and his
+legs to open, before he reached the water.
+
+On my journey I met with an Englishman, a Mr. W----. He dressed _à la Mungo
+Park_, wearing a jacket and trowsers of jean, and a straw hat. He was a
+great pedestrian; had travelled through most of the southern States, and
+was now on his tour through this part of the country. He was a gentleman
+about fifty,--silent and retiring in his habits. Enamoured of the
+orange-trees of Georgia, he intended returning there or to Carolina, and
+ending his days. We agreed to visit the Falls of Niagara together, and
+accordingly quitted the boat at Tonawanta. When we had dined, and had
+deposited our luggage in the safe keeping of the Niagara hotel-keeper, my
+companion shouldered his vigne stick, and to one end of which he appended
+a small bundle, containing a change of linen, &c., and I put on my
+shooting coat of many pockets, and shouldered my gun. Thus equipped, we
+commenced our journey to the Great Falls. The distance from Tonawanta to
+the village of the Falls, now called Manchester, is about eleven miles.
+The way lies through a forest, in which there are but a few scattered
+habitations. A great part of the road runs close to the river Niagara; and
+the occasional glimpses of this broad sheet of water, which are obtained
+through the rich foliage of the forest, added to the refreshing breeze
+that approached us through the openings, rendered our pedestrian excursion
+extremely delightful.
+
+Towards evening we arrived at the village, and proceeded to reconnoitre,
+in order to fix our position for the night. After having done this
+satisfactorily, we then turned our attention to the all-important
+operation of eating and drinking. While supping, an eccentric-looking
+person passed out through the apartment in which we were. His odd
+appearance excited our curiosity, and we inquired who this
+mysterious-looking gentleman was. We were informed that he was an
+Englishman, and that he had been lodging there for the last six months,
+but that he concealed his real name. He slept in one corner of a large
+barrack room, in which there were of course several other beds. On a small
+table by his bed-side there were a few French and Latin books, and some
+scraps of poetry touching on the tender passion. These, and a German
+flute, which we observed standing against the window, gave us some clue to
+his character. He was a tall, romantic-looking young man, apparently about
+twenty-seven or twenty-eight years of age. His dress was particularly
+shabby. This the landlord told us was from choice, not from necessity, as
+he had two trunks full of clothes nearly new. The reason he gave for
+dressing as he did, was his knowing, he said, that if he dressed well,
+people would be talking to him, which he wished to avoid; but, that by
+dressing as he did, he made sure that no one would ever think of giving
+him any annoyance of that kind. I thought this idea unique: and whether he
+be still at Niagara, or has taken up his abode at the foot of the Rocky
+mountains, I pronounce him to be a Diogenes without a tub. He has read at
+least one page in the natural history of civilized man.
+
+We visited the Falls, at the American side by moonlight. There was then an
+air of grandeur and sublimity in the scene which I shall long remember.
+Yet at this side they are not seen to the greatest advantage. Next morning
+I crossed the Niagara river, below the Falls, into Canada. I did not
+ascend the bank to take the usual route to the Niagara hotel, at which
+place there is a spiral staircase descending 120 feet towards the foot of
+the Falls, but clambered along at the base of the cliffs until I reached
+the point immediately below the stairs. I here rested, and indeed required
+it much, for the day was excessively warm, and I had unfortunately
+encumbered myself with my gun and shot pouch. The Falls are here seen in
+all their grandeur. Two immense volumes of water glide over perpendicular
+precipices upwards of 170 feet in height, and tumble among the crags below
+with a roaring that _we_ distinctly heard on our approach to the village,
+at the distance of five miles up the river: and down the river it can be
+heard at a much greater distance. The Falls are divided by Goat Island
+into two parts. The body of water which falls to the right of the island
+is much greater than that which falls to the left; and the cliffs to the
+right assume the form of a horse-shoe. To the left there is also a
+considerable indentation, caused by a late falling in of the rock; but it
+scarcely appears from the Canadian side. The rushing of the waters over
+such immense precipices--the dashing of the spray, which rises in a white
+cloud at the base of the Falls, and is felt at the distance of a quarter
+of a mile--the many and beautiful rainbows that occasionally
+appear,--united, form a grand and imposing _coup d'oeil_.
+
+The Fall is supposed to have been originally at the table-land near
+Lewiston; and indeed, from the nature of the ground, and its present
+condition below the Falls, no reasonable objection can be entertained to
+that supposition. The upper part of the cliffs is composed of hard
+limestone, and underneath is a bed of schistus. Now this schistus is
+continually worn away by the water's dashing against it. This leaves the
+upper part, or immediate bed of the river, without foundation. When,
+therefore, from extraordinary floods, the pressure of the incumbent fluid
+becomes more than usually great, the rock gives way; and thus, gradually,
+the Falls have receded several miles.
+
+I at length ascended the stairs, and popped my head into the shanty, _sans
+ceremonie_, to the no small amazement of the cunning compounder of
+"cock-tails," and "mint julaps" who presided at the bar. It was clear that
+I had ascended the stairs, but how the deuce I had got down was the
+question. I drank my "brandy sling," and retreated before he had recovered
+from his surprise, and thus I escaped the volley of interrogatories with
+which I should have been most unsparingly assailed. I walked for some
+distance along the Canadian heights, and then crossed the river, where I
+met my friend waiting my return under a clump of scrub oak.
+
+We had previously determined on visiting the Tuscarora village, an Indian
+settlement about eight miles down the river, and not far from Ontario.
+This is a tribe of one of the six nations, the last that was admitted into
+the Confederation. They live in a state of community; and in their
+arrangements for the production and distribution of wealth, approach
+nearer to the Utopean system than any community with which I am
+acquainted. The squaws told us that no Indian there could claim any thing
+but what was contained within his own cabin; that the produce of the land
+was common property, and that they never quarrelled about its division. We
+dined in one of their cabins, on lean mutton and corn bread. The interior
+of their habitations is not conspicuous for cleanliness; nor are they so
+far civilized as to be capable of breaking their word. The people at the
+Niagara village told us, that with the exception of two individuals in
+that community, any Indian could get from them on credit either money or
+goods to whatever amount he required.
+
+I here parted with my fellow traveller, perhaps for ever. He went to
+Lewiston, whence he intended to cross into Canada, and to walk along the
+shores of Ontario; whilst I made the best of my way back through the woods
+to Manchester. I certainly think our landlord had some misgivings
+respecting the fate of my companion. We had both departed together: I
+alone was armed--and I alone returned. However, as I unflinchingly stood
+examination and cross-examination, and sojourned until next morning, his
+fears seemed to be entirely dispelled. Next day I took a long, last look
+at Niagara, and departed for Tonawanta.
+
+At Tonawanta I again took the canal-boat to Buffalo, a considerable town
+on the shores of lake Erie, and at the head of the canal navigation. There
+are several good buildings in this town, and some well-appointed hotels.
+Lake schooners, and steam and canal boats are here in abundance, it being
+an entrepôt for western produce and eastern merchandize. A few straggling
+Indians are to be seen skulking about Buffalo, like dogs in Cairo, the
+victims of the inordinate use of ardent spirits.
+
+From Buffalo I proceeded in a steamer along lake Erie, to Portland in
+Ohio, now called Sandusky City; the distance 240 miles. After about an
+hour's sail, we entirely lost sight of the Canadian shores. The scenery on
+the American side is very fine, particularly from Presqu' Isle onward to
+the head of the lake, or rather from its magnitude, it might be termed an
+inland sea.
+
+On landing at Sandusky, I learned that there were several Indian reserves
+between that place and Columbus, the seat of government. This determined
+me on making a pedestrian tour to that city. Accordingly, having forwarded
+my luggage, and made other necessary arrangements, I commenced my
+pergrinations among the Aborigines.
+
+The woods in the upper part of Ohio, nearest the lake, are tolerably open,
+and occasionally interspersed with sumach and sassafras: the soil
+somewhat sandy. I met with but few Indians, until my arrival at Lower
+Sandusky, on the Sandusky river; here there were several groups returning
+to their reserves, from Canada, where they had been to receive the annual
+presents made them by the British government. In the next county (Seneca)
+there is a reservation of about three miles square, occupied by Senecas,
+Cayugas, and part of the Iroquois or six nations, once a most powerful
+confederation amongst the red men.[1] In Crawford county there is a very
+large reserve belonging to the Huron or Wyandot Indians. These, though
+speaking a dialect of the Iroquois tongue, are more in connexion with the
+Delawares than with the Iroquois. The Wyandots are much esteemed by their
+white neighbours, for probity and good behaviour. They dress very
+tastefully. A handsome chintz shawl tied in the Moorish fashion about the
+head--leggings of blue cloth, reaching half way up the thigh, sewn at the
+outside, leaving a hem of about an inch deep--mocassins, or Indian boots,
+made of deer-skin, to fit the foot close, like a glove--a shirt or tunic
+of white calico--and a hunting shirt, or frock, made of strong
+blue-figured cotton or woollen cloth, with a small fringed cape, and long
+sleeves,--a tomahawk and scalping knife stuck in a broad leather belt.
+Accoutred in this manner, and mounted on a small hardy horse, called here
+an Indian pony, imagine a tall, athletic, brown man, with black hair and
+eyes--the hair generally plaited in front, and sometimes hanging in long
+wavy curls behind--aquiline nose, and fearless aspect, and you have a fair
+idea of the Wyandot and Cayuga Indian. The Senecas and Oneidas whom I met
+with, were not so handsome in general, but as athletic, and about the same
+average height--five feet nine or ten.
+
+The Indians here, as every where else, are governed by their own laws, and
+never have recourse to the whites to settle their disputes. That silent
+unbending spirit, which has always characterized the Indian, has alone
+kept in check the rapacious disposition of the whites. Several attempts
+have been made to induce the Indians to sell their lands, and go beyond
+the Mississippi, but hitherto without effect. The Indian replies to the
+fine speeches and wily language of the whites, "We hold this small bit of
+land, in the vast country of our fathers, by _your_ written talk, and it
+is noted on _our_ wampums--the bones of our fathers lie here, and we
+cannot forsake them. You tell us our great father (the president) is
+powerful, and that his arm is long and strong--we believe it is so; but we
+are in hopes that he will not strike his red children for their lands, and
+that he will leave us this little piece to live upon--the hatchet is long
+buried, let it not be disturbed."
+
+Jackson has lately published a manifesto to all the Indian tribes within
+the limits of the United States, commanding them to sell their reserves;
+and with few exceptions, has been answered in this manner.
+
+A circumstance occurred a few days previous to my arrival, in the Seneca
+reserve, which may serve to illustrate the determined character of the
+Indian. There were three brothers (chiefs) dwelling in this reservation.
+"Seneca John," the eldest brother, was the principal chief of the tribe,
+and a man much esteemed by the white people. He died by poison. The
+chiefs in council, having satisfactorily ascertained that his second
+brother "Red-hand," and a squaw, had poisoned him, decreed that Red-hand
+should be put to death. "Black-snake," the other brother, told the chiefs
+that if Red-hand must die, he himself would kill him, in order to prevent
+feuds arising in the tribe. Accordingly in the evening he repaired to the
+hut of Red-hand, and after having sat in silence for some time, said, "My
+best chiefs say, you have killed my father's son,--they say my brother
+must die." Red-hand merely replied, "They say so;" and continued to smoke.
+After about fifteen minutes further silence, Black-snake said, pointing to
+the setting sun, "When he appears above those trees"--moving his arm round
+to the opposite direction--"I come to kill you." Red-hand nodded his head
+in the short significant style of the Indian, and said "Good." The next
+morning Black-snake came, followed by two chiefs, and having entered the
+hut, first put out the squaw, he then returned and stood before his
+brother, his eyes bent on the ground. Red-hand said calmly, "Has my
+brother come that I may die?"--"It is so," was the reply. "Then,"
+exclaimed Red-hand, grasping his brother's left hand with his own right,
+and dashing the shawl from his head, "Strike sure!" In an instant the
+tomahawk was from the girdle of Black-snake, and buried in the skull of
+the unfortunate man. He received several blows before he fell, uttering
+the exclamation "hugh," each time. The Indians placed him on the grass to
+die, where the backwoodsman who told me the story, saw him after the lapse
+of two hours, and life was not then extinct,--with such tenacity does it
+cling to the body of an Indian. The scalping knife was at length passed
+across his throat, and thus ended the scene.
+
+From Sandusky city, in Huron county, I passed into Sandusky county, and
+from thence through Seneca county. These three counties are entirely
+woodlands, with the exception of a few small prairies which lay eastward
+of my course. The land is generally fertile. Some light sandy soil is
+occasionally to be met with, which produces more quickly than the heavier
+soil, but not so abundantly. I saw in my travels through these counties a
+few persons who were ill of ague-fever, as it is here called. The
+prevalence of this disease is not to be attributed to a general
+unhealthiness of the climate, but can at all times be referred to
+localities.
+
+I next entered Crawford county, and crossed the Wyandot prairie, about
+seven miles in length, to Upper Sandusky. This was the first of those
+extensive meadows I had seen, and I was much pleased with its
+appearance--although this prairie is comparatively but small, yet its
+beauty cannot be surpassed; and the groves, and clusters of trees, _iles
+de bois_, with which it is interspersed, make it much resemble a beautiful
+domain.
+
+Attached to the Wyandot reserve (nine miles by sixteen) is that of the
+Delawares (three miles square). On reaching Little Sandusky--Kahama's
+curse on the town baptizers of America!--there are often five or six
+places named alike in one state: upper and lower, little and big, great
+and small--and invariably the same names that are given to towns in one
+State, are to be found in every other. Then their vile plagiarisms of
+European names causes a Babelonish confusion of ideas, enough to disturb
+the equanimity of a "grisly saint;" and, with all humility, I disclaim
+having any pretensions to that character. I have frequently heard a
+long-legged, sallow-looking backwoodsman talk of having come lately from
+Paris, or Mecca, when instead of meaning the capital of _La grande
+nation_, or the city of "the holy prophet," he spoke of some town
+containing a few hundred inhabitants, situated in the backwoods of
+Kentucky, or amidst the gloomy forests of Indiana. The Americans too speak
+in prospective, when they talk of great places; no doubt "calculating"
+that, one day, all the mighty productions of the old world will be
+surpassed by their ingenuity and perseverance.
+
+I reached Little Sandusky about one o'clock in the day, and there learned
+that there was a treaty being holden with the Delawares--accordingly I
+repaired to the council ground. On a mat, under the shade of seven large
+elm trees, which in more prosperous times had waved over the war-like
+ancestors of this unfortunate people, were seated three old sachems, the
+principal of the tribe. The oldest appeared to be nearly eighty years of
+age, the next about seventy, and the last about fifty. On a chair to the
+right of the Indians was seated a young "half-breed" chief, the son of one
+of the sachems by a white squaw; and on their left, seated on another
+chair, a Delaware dressed in the costume of the whites. This young man was
+in the pay of the States, and acted as interpreter--he interpreting into
+and from the Delaware language, and a gentleman of the mission (a Captain
+Walker) into and from the Wyandot. At a table opposite the Indians were
+seated the commissioners.
+
+The Lenni Lenapé, or Delawares, as they were called by the English, from
+the circumstance of their holding their great "Council-fire" on the banks
+of the Delaware river, were once the most powerful of the several tribes
+that spoke the Delaware tongue, and possessed an immense tract of country
+east of the Alleghany mountains. This unfortunate people had been driven
+from place to place, until at last they were obliged to accept of an
+asylum from the Wyandot, whom they call their uncle; and now are forced to
+sell this, and go beyond the Mississippi. To a reflecting mind, the scene
+was touching beyond description. Here was the sad remnant of a great
+nation, who having been forced back from the original country of their
+fathers, by successive acts of rapacity, are now compelled to enter into
+a compact which obliges them, half civilized as they are, to return to the
+forest. The case is this,--the white people, or rather Jackson and the
+southerns, say, that the Indians "retard improvement"--precisely in the
+same sense that a brigand, when he robs a traveller, might say, that the
+traveller retarded improvement--that is, retarded _his_ improvement,
+inasmuch as he had in his pocket, what would improve the condition of the
+brigand. The Indians have cultivated farms, and valuable tracts of land,
+and no doubt it will improve the condition of the whites, to get
+possession of those farms and rich lands, for _one tenth of their saleable
+value_. The profits that have accrued to the United States from the
+systematic plunder of the Indians, are immense, and a great portion of the
+national debt has been liquidated by this dishonest means.[2]
+
+The reserve of the Delawares contained nine square miles, or 5760 acres.
+For this it was agreed at the treaty, that they should be paid 6000
+dollars, and the value of the improvements, which I conceived to be a fair
+bargain. I was not then aware of the practice pursued by the government,
+of making deductions, under various pretences, from the purchase-money,
+until the unfortunate Indian is left scarcely anything in lieu of his
+lands, and says, that "the justice of the white man is not like the
+justice of the red man," and that he cannot understand the honesty of his
+Christian brother. The following extract, taken from the New York
+American, will give some insight into the mode of dealing with the
+Indians.
+
+"_The last of the Ottowas_.--Maumee Bay, Ohio, Sept. 3, 1831.--Mr. James
+B. Gardiner has concluded a very important treaty at Maumee Bay, in
+Michigan, for a cession of all the lands owned by the Ottowa Indians in
+Ohio, about 50,000 acres. It was attended with more labour and greater
+difficulties than any other treaty made in this state: it was the last
+foothold which that savage, warlike, and hostile tribe held in their
+ancient dominion. The conditions of this treaty are very similar to those
+treaties of Lewistown and Wapaghkenetta, _with this exception_, that the
+surplus avails of their lands, _after deducting seventy cents per acre to
+indemnify the government_, are to be appropriated for paying the debts of
+their nation, which amount to about 20,000 dollars." [Query, what are
+those debts?--could they be the amount of _presents_ made them on former
+occasions?] "The balance, _if any_, accrues to the tribe. Seventy
+thousand acres of land are granted to them west of the Mississippi.[3] The
+Ottowas are the most depredating, drunken, and ferocious in Ohio. The
+reservations ceded by them are very valuable, and those on the Miami of
+the lake embrace some of the best mill privileges in the State."
+
+The Delawares were too few (being but fifty-one in number) to contend the
+matter, and therefore accepted of the proposed terms. At the conclusion of
+the conference, the Commissioners told them that they should have a barrel
+of flour, with the beef that had been killed for the occasion, which was
+received with "Yo-ha!--Yo-ha!" They then said, laughing, "that they hoped
+their father would allow them a little milk," meaning whisky, which was
+accordingly granted. They drank of this modern Lethé and forgot for a time
+their misfortunes.
+
+On the Osage fork of the Merrimack river, there are two settlements of the
+Delawares, to the neighbourhood of which these Indians intend to remove.
+
+Near the Delaware reserve, I fell in with a young Indian, apparently about
+twenty years of age, and we journeyed together for several miles through
+the forest. He spoke English fluently, and conformed as far as his taste
+would permit him, to the habits of the whites. His dress consisted of a
+blue frock coat, blue cloth leggings, moccasins, a shawl tied about the
+head, and a red sash round his waste. In conversation, I asked him if he
+were not a Cayuga--: "No," says he, "an Oneida," placing both his hands on
+his breast--"a _clear_ Oneida." I could not help smiling at his national
+pride;--yet this is man: in every country and condition he is proud of his
+descent, and loves the race to which he belongs. This Oneida was a widow's
+son. He had sixteen acres of cleared land, which, with occasional
+assistance, he cultivated himself. When the produce was sold, he divided
+the proceeds with his mother, and then set out, and travelled until his
+funds were exhausted. He had just then returned from a tour to New York
+and Philadelphia, and had visited almost every city in the Union. As
+Guedeldk--that was the Oneida's name--and I were rambling along, we met a
+negro who was journeying in great haste--he stopped to inquire if we had
+seen that day, or the day previous, any nigger-woman going towards the
+lake. I had passed the day before two waggon loads of negros, which were
+being transported, by the state, to Canada. A local law prohibits the
+settlement of people of colour within the state of Ohio, which was now put
+in force, although it had remained dormant for many years.
+
+There was much hardship in the case of this poor fellow. He had left his
+family at Cincinnati, and had gone to work on the canal some eighteen or
+twenty miles distant. He had been absent about a week; and on his return
+he found his house empty, and was informed that his wife and children had
+been seized, and transported to Canada. The enforcement of this law has
+been since abandoned; and I must say, although the law itself is at
+variance with the Constitution of the United States, which is paramount to
+all other laws, that its abandonment is due entirely to the good feeling
+of the people of Ohio, who exclaimed loudly against the cruelty of the
+measure.
+
+FOOTNOTES:
+
+[1] De Witt Clinton, speaking of the Iroquois, or five nations, says,
+"Their exterior relations, general interests, and national affairs, were
+conducted and superintended by a great council, assembled annually in
+Onondaga, the central canton, composed of the chiefs of each republic;
+and eighty sachems were frequently convened at this national assembly. It
+took cognizance of the great questions of war and peace; of the affairs
+of the tributary nations, and their negotiations with the French and
+English colonies. All their proceedings were conducted with great
+deliberation, and were distinguished for order, decorum, and solemnity.
+In eloquence, in dignity, and in all the characteristics of profound
+policy, they surpassed the assembly of feudal barons, and perhaps were
+not inferior to the great Amphictyonic Council of Greece."
+
+[2]
+                                              Dollars.
+
+Amount of lands sold up to the year 1824     44,229,837
+
+173,176,606 acres unsold, estimated at one
+dollar per acre. The Congress price was
+then two dollars, but was subsequently
+reduced to a dollar and a quarter, and
+is now 75 cents.                            173,176,606
+                                            -----------
+                                            217,406,443
+
+Deduct value of annuities, expenses of
+surveying, &c. &c., being the amount of
+purchase-money paid for same                  4,243,632
+                                            -----------
+
+Profit arising to the United States from
+purchases of land from the Indians          213,162,811
+                                            -----------
+Allowing 480 cents, to the pound sterling, the gross
+          profit is £44,408,918. 19_s_. 2_d_.
+
+[3] There are lands west of the Mississippi, which would be dear at ten
+cents per hundred acres.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER III.
+
+
+From Little Sandusky, I passed through Marion, in Marion county. This
+town, like most others in Ohio, is advancing rapidly, and has at present
+several good brick buildings. The clap-boarded frame houses, which compose
+the great mass of habitations in the towns throughout the western country,
+in general have a neat appearance. I here saw gazetted three divorces, all
+of which had been granted on the applications of the wives. One, on the
+ground of the husband's absenting himself for one year: another, on
+account of a blow having been given: and the third for general neglect.
+There are few instances of a woman's being refused a divorce in the
+western country, as dislike is very generally--and very
+rationally--supposed to constitute a sufficient reason for granting the
+ladies their freedom.
+
+I crossed Delaware county into Franklin county, where Columbus, the
+capital of the state, is situated. The roads from the lake to this city,
+with few exceptions, passed through woodlands, and the country is but
+thinly settled. Beech, oak, elm, hickory, walnut, white-oak, ash, &c.
+compose the bulk of the forest trees; and in the bottom lands, enormous
+sycamores are to be seen stretching their white arms almost to the very
+clouds. The land is of various denominations, but in general may be termed
+fertile.
+
+Columbus, the capital of Ohio, is seated on the Scioto river, which is
+navigable for keel and flat boats, and small craft, almost to its source;
+and by means of a portage of about four miles, to Sandusky river, which
+flows into lake Erie, a convenient communication is established between
+the lakes, and the great western waters. The town is well laid out. The
+streets are wide; and the court-house, town-hall, and public offices, are
+built of brick. There are some good taverns here, and the tables d'hôtes
+are well and abundantly supplied.
+
+There are land offices in every county seat, in which maps and plans of
+the county are kept. On these, the disposable tracts of country are
+distinguished from those which have been disposed of. The purchaser pays
+one fourth of the purchase money, for which he gets a receipt,--this
+constitutes his title, until, on paying the residue, he receives a regular
+title deed. He may however pay the full amount at once, and receive a
+discount of, I believe, eight per cent. A township comprises thirty-six
+square miles (twenty three thousand and forty acres) in sections of six
+hundred and forty acres each, which are subdivided, to accommodate
+purchasers, into quarter sections, or lots of a hundred and sixty acres.
+The sixteenth section is not sold, but reserved for the support of the
+poor, for education, and other public uses. There is no provision made in
+this, or any other state, for the ministers of religion, which is found to
+be highly beneficial to the interests of practical Christianity. The
+congress price of land has lately been reduced from a dollar and a quarter
+per acre, to seventy-five cents.
+
+Ohio averages 184 miles in extent, from north to south, and 220 miles from
+east to west. Area, 40,000 square miles, or 25,600,000 acres. The
+population in 1790, was 3000; in 1800, 45,365; in 1810, 230,760; and in
+1820, 581,434. White males, 300,609; white females, 275,955; free people
+of colour, 4723; militia in 1821, 83,247. The last census, taken in 1830,
+makes the population 937,679.
+
+Having no more Indian reserves to visit, I took the stage, and rumbled
+over corduroys, republicans, stumps, and ruts, until my ribs were
+literally sore, through London, Xenia, and Lebanon, to Cincinnati.
+
+At Lebanon there is a large community of the shaking Quakers. They have
+establishments also in Mason county, and at Covington, in Kentucky: their
+tenets are strictly Scriptural. They contend, that confessing their sins
+to one another, is necessary to a state of perfection; that the church of
+Christ ought to have all things in common; that none of the members of
+this church ought to cohabit, but be literally virgins; and that to dance
+and be merry is their duty, which part of their doctrines they take from
+the thirty-first chapter of Jeremiah.
+
+Their ceremonies are as follows:--The men sit on the left hand, squatting
+on the floor, with their knees up, and their hands clasped round them.
+Opposite, in the same posture, sit the women, whose appearance is most
+cadaverous and sepulchral, dressed in the Quaker costume. After sitting
+for some time in this hatching position, they all rise and sing a canting
+sort of hymn, during which the women keep time by elevating themselves on
+their toes. After the singing has ceased, a discourse is delivered by one
+of the elders; which being ended, the men pull off their coats and
+waistcoats. All being prepared, one of the brethren steps forward to the
+centre of the room, and in a loud voice, gives out a tune, beating time
+with his foot, and singing _lal lal la, lal lal la_, &c., being joined by
+the whole group, all jumping as high as possible, clapping their hands,
+and at intervals twirling round,--but making rather ungraceful
+_pirouettes_: this exercise they continue until they are completely
+exhausted. In their ceremonials they much resemble the howling Dervishes
+of the Moslems, whom they far surpass in fanaticism.
+
+Within about ten miles of Cincinnati we took up an old doctor, who was
+going to that city for the purpose of procuring a warrant against one of
+his neighbours, who, he had reason to believe, was concerned in the
+kidnapping of a free negro the night before. This is by no means an
+uncommon occurrence in the free states bordering the great rivers. The
+unfortunate black man, when captured, is hurried down to the river, thrust
+into a flat boat, and carried to the plantations. Such negros are not
+exposed for sale in the public bazaars, as that would be attended with
+risk; but a false bill of sale is made out, and the sale is effected to
+some planter before they reach Orleans. There is, of course, always
+collusion between the buyer and seller, and the man is disposed of,
+generally, for half his value.
+
+These are certainly atrocious acts; yet when a British subject reads such
+passages as the following, in the histories of East India government, he
+must feel that if they were ten times as infamous and numerous as they are
+in reality, it becomes not _him_ to censure them. Bolts, who was a judge
+of the mayor's court of Calcutta, says, in his "Considerations on India
+Affairs," page 194, "With every species of monopoly, therefore, every kind
+of oppression to manufacturers of all denominations throughout the whole
+country has daily increased; insomuch that weavers, for daring to sell
+their goods, and Dallals and Pykars, for having contributed to, or
+connived at, such sales, have by the _Company's agents,_ been frequently
+seized and imprisoned, confined in irons, fined considerable sums of
+money, flogged, and deprived, in the most ignominious manner, of what they
+esteem most valuable, their castes. Weavers also, upon their inability to
+perform such agreements as have been _forced from them by the Company's
+agents_, universally known in Bengal by the name of _Mutchulcahs_, have
+had their goods seized and sold on the spot, to make good the deficiency:
+and the winders of raw silk, called _Nagaards_, have been treated also
+with such injustice, that instances have been known of their cutting off
+their thumbs, to prevent their being forced to wind silk. This last kind
+of workmen were pursued with such rigour, during Lord Clive's late
+government in Bengal, from a zeal for _increasing the Company's
+investment_ of raw silk, that the most sacred laws of society were
+atrociously violated; for it was _a common thing for the Company's
+scapoys_ to be sent by force of arms to break open the houses of the
+Armenian merchants established at Sydabad (who have from time immemorial
+been largely concerned in the silk trade), and forcibly take the
+_Nagaards_ from their work, and carry them away to the English factory."
+
+As we approached Cincinnati the number of farms, and the extent of
+cultivated country, indicated the comparative magnitude of that city.
+Fields in this country have nothing like the rich appearance of those in
+England and Ireland, being generally filled with half-rotten stumps,
+scattered here and there among the growing corn, producing a most
+disagreeable effect. Then, instead of the fragrant quickset hedge, there
+is a "worm fence"--the rudest description of barrier known in the
+country--which consists simply of bars, about eight or nine feet in
+length, laid zig-zag on each other alternately: the improvement on this,
+and the _ne plus ultra_ in the idea of a west country farmer, is what is
+termed a "post and rail fence." This denomination of fence is to be seen
+sometimes in the vicinity of the larger towns, and is constructed of posts
+six feet in length, sunk in the ground to the depth of about a foot, and
+at eight or ten feet distance; the rails are then laid into mortises cut
+into the posts, at intervals of about thirteen or fourteen inches, which
+completes the work.
+
+Cincinnati is built on a bend of the Ohio river, which takes here a
+semicircular form, and runs nearly west; it afterwards flows in a more
+southerly direction. A complete chain of hills, sweeping from one point of
+the bend round to the other, encloses the city in a sort of amphitheatre.
+The houses are mostly brick, and the streets all paved. There are several
+spacious and handsome market houses, which on market days are stocked with
+all kinds of provisions--indeed I think the market of Cincinnati is very
+nearly the best supplied in the United States. There are many respectable
+public buildings here, such as a court-house, theatre, bazaar, (built by
+Mrs. Trollope, but the speculation failed), and divers churches, in which
+you may see well-dressed women, and hear orthodox, heterodox, and every
+other species of doctrine, promulgated and enforced by strength of lungs,
+and length of argument, with pulpit-drum accompaniment, and all other
+requisites _ad captandum vulgus_.
+
+The city stands on two plains: one called the bottom, extends about 260
+yards back from the river, and is three miles in length, from Deer Creek
+to Mill Creek; the other is fifty feet higher than the first, and is
+called the Hill; this extends back about a mile. The bottom is sixty-five
+feet above low water mark. In 1815 the population was estimated at 6000,
+and at present it is supposed to be upwards of 25,000 souls. By means of
+the Dayton canal, which runs from that town nearly parallel with the "Big
+Miami" river, a very extensive trade, for all kinds of produce, is
+established with the back country. Steamers are constantly arriving at,
+and departing from the wharf, on their passage up and down the river. This
+is one of the many examples to be met with in the western country, of
+towns springing into importance within the memory of comparatively young
+men--a log-house is still standing, which is shewn as the first habitation
+built by the backwoodsman, who squatted in the forest where now stands a
+handsome and flourishing city.
+
+On arriving at Cincinnati, I learned that my friend T---- had taken up his
+abode at a farm-house a few miles from town, where I accordingly repaired,
+and found him in good health, and initiated into all the manners, habits,
+customs, and diversions of the natives. Farming people in Ohio work hard.
+The women have no sinecures, being occupied the greater part of the day in
+cooking; as they breakfast at eight, dine at half-past twelve, and sup at
+six, and at each of these meals, meat, and other cooked dishes are served
+up. In farming they co-operate with each other. When a farmer wishes to
+have his corn husked, he rides round to his neighbours and informs them of
+his intention. An invitation of this kind was once given in my presence.
+The farmer entered the house, sat down, and after the customary
+compliments were passed, in the usual laconic style, the following
+dialogue took place. "I guess I'll husk my corn to-morrow
+afternoon."--"You've a mighty heap this year."--"Considerable of corn."
+The host at length said, "Well, I guess we'll be along"--and the matter
+was arranged. All these gatherings are under the denomination of
+"frolics"--such as "corn-husking frolic," "apple-cutting frolic,"
+"quilting frolic," &c.
+
+Being somewhat curious in respect to national amusements, I attended a
+"corn-husking frolic" in the neighbourhood of Cincinnati. The corn was
+heaped up into a sort of hillock close by the granary, on which the young
+"Ohiohians" and "buck-eyes"--the lasses of Ohio are called
+"buck-eyes"--seated themselves in pairs; while the old wives, and old
+farmers were posted around, doing little, but talking much. Now the laws
+of "corn-husking frolics" ordain, that for each red ear that a youth
+finds, he is entitled to exact a kiss from his partner. There were two or
+three young Irishmen in the group, and I could observe the rogues kissing
+half-a-dozen times on the same red ears. Each of them laid a red-ear close
+by him, and after every two or three he'd husk, up he'd hold the
+redoubtable red-ear to the astonished eyes of the giggling lass who sate
+beside him, and most unrelentingly inflict the penalty. The "gude wives"
+marvelled much at the unprecedented number of red-ears which that lot of
+corn contained: by-and-by, they thought it "a kind of curious" that the
+Irishmen should find so many of them--at length, the cheat was discovered,
+amidst roars of laughter. The old farmers said the lads were "wide
+awake," and the "buck-eyes" declared that there was no being up to the
+plaguy Irishmen "no how," for they were always sure to have every thing
+their own way. But the mischief of it was, the young Americans took the
+hint, and the poor "buck-eyes" got nothing like fair play for the
+remainder of that evening. All agreed that there was more laughing, and
+more kissing done at that, than had been known at any corn-husking frolic
+since "the Declaration."
+
+The farmers of Ohio are a class of people about equivalent to our second
+and third rate farmer, inasmuch as they work themselves, but possessing
+infinitely more independence in their character and deportment. Every
+white male, who is a citizen of the United States, and has resided one
+year in the state, and paid taxes, has a vote. The members of the
+legislature are elected annually, and those of the senate biennially; half
+of the members of the latter branch vacating their seats every year. The
+representatives, in addition to the qualifications necessary to the
+elector, must be twenty-five years of age; and the senators must have
+resided in the state two years, and must be thirty years of age. The
+governor must be thirty years of age, an inhabitant of the state four
+years, and a citizen of the United States twelve years,--he is eligible
+only for six years in eight.
+
+Notwithstanding the numerous religious sects that are to be found in this
+country, there is nothing like sectarian animosity prevailing. This is to
+be attributed to the ministers of religion being paid as they deserve, and
+no one class of people being taxed to support the religious tenets of
+another.
+
+The farmers of this state are by no means religious, in a doctrinal sense;
+on the contrary, they appear indifferent on matters of this nature. The
+girls _sometimes_ go to church, which here, as in all Christian countries,
+is equivalent to the bazaars of Smyrna and Bagdad; and as the girls go,
+their "dads" must pay the parson. The Methodists are very zealous, and
+have frequent "revivals" and "camp-meetings." I was at two of the latter
+assemblages, one in Kentucky, and the other in Ohio. I shall endeavour to
+convey some idea of this extraordinary species of religious festival.
+
+To the right of Cheriot, which lies in a westerly direction, about ten
+miles from Cincinnati, under the shade of tall oak and elm trees, the camp
+was pitched in a quadrangular form. Three sides were occupied by tents for
+the congregation, and the fourth by booths for the preachers. A little in
+advance before the booths was erected a platform for the performing
+preacher, and at the foot of this, inclosed by forms, was a species of
+sanctuary, called "the penitents' pen." People of every denomination might
+be seen here, allured by various motives. The girls, dressed in all
+colours of the rainbow, congregated to display their persons and
+costumes; the young men came to see the girls, and considered it a sort of
+"frolic;" and the old women, induced by fanaticism, and other motives,
+assembled in large numbers, and waited with patience for the proper season
+of repentance. At the intervals between the "preachments," the young
+married and unmarried women promenaded round the tents, and their smiling
+faces formed a striking contrast to the demure countenances of their more
+experienced sisters, who, according to their age or temperament, descanted
+on the folly, or condemned the sinfulness of such conduct. Some of those
+old dames, I was informed, were decoy birds, who shared the profits with
+the preachers, and attended all the "camp-meetings" in the country.
+
+The psalmodies were performed in the true Yankee style of nasal-melody,
+and at proper and seasonable intervals the preachings were delivered. The
+preachers managed their tones and discourses admirably, and certainly
+displayed a good deal of tact in their calling. They use the most
+extravagant gestures--astounding bellowings--a canting hypocritical
+whine--slow and solemn, although by no means _musical_ intonations, and
+the _et ceteras_ that complete the qualifications of a regular
+camp-meeting methodist parson. During the exhortations the brothers and
+sisters were calling out--Bless God! glory! glory! amen! God grant! Jesus!
+&c.
+
+At the adjournment for dinner, a knowing-looking gentleman was appointed
+to deliver an admonition. I admired this person much for the ingenuity he
+displayed in introducing the subject of collection, and the religious
+obligation of each and every individual to contribute largely to the
+support of the preacher and his brothers of the vineyard. He set forth the
+respectability of the county, as evinced by former contributions, and
+thence inferred, most logically, that the continuance of that respectable
+character depended on the amount of that day's collection. A conversation
+took place behind me, during this part of the preacher's exhortation,
+between three young farmers, which, as being characteristic, I shall
+repeat.
+
+"The old man is wide awake, I guess."
+
+"I reckon he knows a thing or two."
+
+"I calculate he's been on board a flat afore now."
+
+"Yes, I guess a Yankee 'd find it damned hard to sell him _hickory_
+nutmegs."
+
+"It'd take a pretty smart man to poke it on to a parson any how."
+
+"I guess'd it'd come to dollars and cents in the end."
+
+After sunset the place was lighted up by beacon fires and candles, and the
+scene seemed to be changing to one of more deep and awful interest. About
+nine o'clock the preachers began to rally their forces--the candles were
+snuffed--fuel was added to the fires--clean straw was shook in the
+"penitents' pen"--and every movement "gave dreadful note of preparation."
+At length the hour was sounded, and the faithful forthwith assembled. A
+chosen leader commenced to harangue--he bellowed--he roared--he whined--he
+shouted until he became actually hoarse, and the perspiration rolled down
+his face. Now, the faithful seemed to take the infection, and as if
+overcome by their excited feelings, flung themselves headlong on the straw
+into the penitents' pen--the old dames leading the way. The preachers, to
+the number of a dozen, gave a loud shout and rushed into the thick of the
+penitents. A scene now ensued that beggars all description. About twenty
+women, young and old, were lying in every direction and position, with
+caps and without caps, screeching, bawling, and kicking in hysterics, and
+profaning the name of Jesus. The preachers, on their knees amongst them,
+were with Stentorian voices exhorting them to call louder and louder on
+the Lord, until he came upon them; whilst their _attachées,_ with
+turned-up eyes and smiling countenances, were chanting hymns and shaking
+hands with the multitude. Some would now and then give a hearty laugh,
+which is an indication of superior grace, and is called "the holy laugh."
+The scene altogether was highly entertaining--penitents, parsons, caps,
+combs, and straw, jumbled in one heterogeneous mass, lay heaving on the
+ground, and formed at this juncture a grouping that might be done justice
+to by the pencil of Hogarth, or the pen of the author of Hudibras; but of
+which I fear an inferior pen or pencil must fail in conveying an adequate
+idea.
+
+The women were at length carried off, fainting, by their friends, and the
+preachers began to prepare for another scene. From the time of those
+faintings, the "new birth" is dated, which means a spiritual resurrection
+or revival.
+
+The scene that followed appeared to be a representation of "the Last
+Supper." The preachers assembled round a table, and acted as disciples,
+whilst one of them, the leader, presided. The bread was consecrated,
+divided and eaten--the wine served much after the same manner. The
+faithful, brothers and sisters, were now called upon to partake of the
+Sacrament--proper warning, however, being given to the gentlemen, that
+when the wine was handed to them, they were not to take a _drink_, as that
+was quite unnecessary, as a small sup would answer every purpose. One
+gentleman seemed to have forgotten this hint, and attempted to take rather
+more than a sup; but he was prevented by the administering preacher
+snatching the goblet from him with both hands. Many said they were obliged
+to substitute _brandy and water_ for wine; but for this fact I cannot
+vouch. Another straw-tumbling scene now began; and, as if by way of
+variety, the inmates of five or six tents got up similar scenes among
+themselves. The preachers left the field to join the tenters; and, if
+possible, surpassed their previous exhibitions. The women were
+occasionally making confessions, _pro bono publico_, when sundry
+"backslidings" were acknowledged for the edification of the multitude. We
+left the camp about two o'clock in the morning, when these poor fanatics
+were still in full cry.
+
+At Hell Town, near this place, there was an officer's muster held about
+this time. Every citizen exercising the elective franchise is also
+eligible to serve in the militia. There are two general musters held every
+year in each county, and several company meetings. Previous to the general
+muster there is an officer's muster, when the captains and subalterns are
+put through their exercise by the field officers. At this muster, which I
+attended, the superior officers in command certainly appeared to be
+sufficiently conversant with tactics, and explained the rationale of each
+movement in a clear and concise manner; but the captains and subalterns
+went through their exercise somewhat in the manner of the yeomen of the
+Green Island. When the gentlemen were placed in line, and attention was
+commanded, the General turned round to converse with his coadjutors--no
+sooner had he done this than about twenty heroes squatted _a l'Indien;_
+no doubt deeming it more consistent, the day being warm, to sit than
+stand. On the commander observing this movement, which he seemed to think
+quite unmilitary, he remonstrated--the warriors arose; but, alas! the just
+man _falls_ seven times a day, and the militia officers of Hamilton county
+seemed to think it not derogatory to their characters to _squat_ five or
+six. The offence was repeated several times, and as often censured. They
+wheeled into battalions, and out of battalions, in most glorious
+disorder--their _straight_ lines were _zig-zag._ In marching abreast, they
+came to a fence next the road--the tavern was opposite, and the temptation
+too great to be resisted--a number threw down their muskets--tumbled
+themselves over the fence, and rushed into the bar-room to refresh! An
+American's heart sickens at restraint, and nothing but necessity will
+oblige him to observe discipline.
+
+The question naturally arises, how would these forces resist the finely
+disciplined troops of Europe? The answer is short: If the Americans would
+consent to fight _à bataille rangée_ on one of the prairies of Illinois,
+undoubtedly the disciplined troops would prevail; but as neither their
+experience nor inclination is likely to lead them into such circumstances,
+my opinion is, that send the finest army Europe can produce into this
+country, in six months, the forests, swamps, and deadly rifle, united,
+will annihilate it--and let it be remembered, that at the battle of New
+Orleans, there were between two and three thousand British slain, and
+there were only twelve Americans killed, and perhaps double that number
+wounded. In patriotism and personal courage, the Americans are certainly
+not inferior to the people of any nation.
+
+There had been lately throughout the States a good deal of excitement
+produced by an attempt, made by the Presbyterians, to stop the mails on
+the sabbath. This party is headed by a Doctor Ely, of Philadelphia, a
+would-be "lord spiritual," and they made this merely as a trial of
+strength, preparatory to some other measures calculated to lead to a
+church establishment. Their designs, however, have been detected, and
+measures accordingly taken to resist them. At a meeting at which I was
+present at Cincinnati, the people were most enthusiastic, and some very
+strong resolutions were passed, expressive of their abhorrence of this
+attempt to violate the constitution of America.
+
+Good farms within about three or four miles of Cincinnati, one-third
+cleared, are sold at from thirty to fifty dollars per acre. Cows sell at
+from ten to twenty dollars. Horses, at from twenty-five to seventy-five
+and one hundred dollars. Sheep from two to three dollars. There are some
+tolerable flocks of sheep throughout this state, but they are of little
+value beyond the price of the wool, a most unaccountable antipathy to
+mutton existing among the inhabitants.
+
+Whilst on the banks of Lake Erie, having heard a great deal of
+conversation about the "lake fever," I made several inquiries from the
+inhabitants on that subject, the result of which confirmed me in the
+opinion, that the shores of the lakes are quite as healthy as any other
+part of the country, and that here, as elsewhere, the disease arises from
+stagnant pools, swamps, and masses of decayed animal and vegetable matter,
+which are allowed to remain and accumulate in the vicinity of settlements.
+When at New York, I met an old and wealthy farmer, who was himself,
+although eighty years of age, in the enjoyment of rude health. He informed
+me that he had resided in Canada, on the shores of Lake Erie, for the last
+fifty years, and that neither he nor any one of his family had ever been
+afflicted with fever of any description. The district in which he lived,
+was entirely free from local nuisances, and the inhabitants he
+represented as being as healthy as any in the United States.
+
+My observations, so far, lead me to conclude, that this climate agrees
+fully as well with Europeans as with the natives, indeed that the
+susceptibility to fever and ague is greater in the natives than in
+Europeans of good habits. The cause I conceive to be this: the early
+settlers had to encounter swamps of the most pestilential description, and
+dense forests through which the sun's rays had never penetrated, and which
+industry and cultivation have since made in a great measure to disappear.
+They notoriously suffered much from the ravages of malaria, and such as
+survived the baleful effects of this disease, escaped with impaired
+constitutions. Now this susceptibility to intermittent fever, appears to
+me to have been transmitted to their descendants, and to act as the
+predisposing cause. I have seen English and Irish people who have been in
+the country upwards of thirty years, who look just as you would expect to
+find persons of their age at home.
+
+There are situations evidently unhealthy, such as river bottoms, and the
+vicinity of creeks. The soil in those situations is alluvial, and its
+extreme fertility often induces unfortunate people to reside in them. The
+appearance of those persons in general is truly wretched.
+
+The women here, although they live as long as those in the old country,
+yet they fade much sooner, and, with few exceptions, have bad teeth.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER IV.
+
+
+Having decided on visiting New Harmony, in Indiana, where our friend B----
+had been for some time enjoying the delights of sylvan life, and the
+refinements of backwoods-society, T---- and I purchased a horse, and
+Dearborne, a species of light waggon used in this country for travelling.
+We furnished ourselves with a small axe, hunting knives, and all things
+necessary for encamping when occasion required, and so set out about the
+beginning of September.
+
+We crossed the Big-Miami river, and proceeded by a tolerable road, and
+some good farms, to Lawrenceburg, a handsome town on the Ohio, within a
+mile of the outlet of the Miami. From thence we drove on towards
+Wilmington; but our horse becoming jaded, we found it expedient to "camp
+out," within some miles of that town. Next morning we passed through
+Wilmington, but lost the direct track through the forest, and took the
+road to Versailles, which lay in a more northerly direction than the route
+we had proposed to ourselves. This road was one of those newly cut through
+the forest, and there frequently occurred intervals of five or six miles
+between the settlements; and of the road itself, a tolerably correct idea
+may be formed by noting the stipulations made with the contractors, which
+are solely that the roads shall be of a certain width, and that no stump
+shall be left projecting more than _fifteen inches_ above the ground.
+
+On the night of the second day we reached the vicinity of Versailles, and
+put up at the residence of a backwoodsman--a fine looking fellow, with a
+particularly ugly _squaw_. He had come from Kentucky five years
+before--sat down in the forest--"built him" a log-house--wielded his axe
+to the tune of "The Hunters of Kentucky," and had now eighteen acres of
+cleared land, and all the _et ceteras_ of a farm. We supped off
+venison-steaks and stewed squirrel. Our host told us that there was "a
+pretty smart chance of deer" in the neighbourhood, and that when he first
+"located," "there was a small sprinkling of _baar_" (bear), but that at
+present nothing of the kind was to be seen. There was very little comfort
+in the appearance of this establishment; yet the good dame had a
+side-saddle, hung on a peg in one of the apartments, which would not have
+disgraced the lady of an Irish squireen. This appears to be an article of
+great moment in the estimation of West-country ladies, and when nothing
+else about the house is even tolerable, the side-saddle is of the most
+fashionable pattern.
+
+From Versailles, we took the track to Vernon, through a rugged and swampy
+road, it having rained the night before. The country is hilly, and
+interspersed with runs, which are crossed with some difficulty, the
+descents and ascents being very considerable. The stumps, "corduroys"
+(rails laid horizontally across the road where the ground is marshy)
+swamps, and "republicans," (projecting roots of trees, so called from the
+stubborn tenacity with which they adhere to the ground, it being almost
+impossible to grub them up), rendered the difficulty of traversing this
+forest so great, that notwithstanding our utmost exertions we were unable
+to make more than sixteen miles from sunrise to sunset, when, both the
+horse and ourselves being completely exhausted, we halted until morning. I
+was awoke at sunrise by a "white-billed woodpecker," which was making the
+woods ring by the rattling of its bill against a tree. This is a large
+handsome bird, (the _picus principalis_ of Linnaeus), it is sometimes
+called here the wood-cock. Pigeons, squirrels, and turtle-doves abound in
+all these forests, and my friend being an expert gunner, we had always
+plenty of game for dinner. The morning was still grey when we set forward.
+
+We forded the Muskakituck river at Vernon, which stands on its head
+waters, and is a country seat. We then directed our course to Brownstown,
+on the east branch of White river. We found the roads still bad until we
+came within about ten miles of that place. There the country began to
+assume a more cultivated appearance, and the roads became tolerably good,
+being made through a sandy or gravelly district. In the neighbourhood of
+Brownstown there are some rich lands, and from that to Salem, a distance
+of twenty-two miles, we were much pleased with the country. We had been
+hitherto journeying through dense forests, and except when we came to a
+small town, could never see more than about ten yards on either side. All
+through Indiana the peaches were in great abundance this year, and such
+was the weight of fruit the trees had to sustain, that the branches were
+invariably broken where not propped.
+
+From Salem we took a westward track by Orleans to Hindostan, crossed the
+east branch of White river, and passed through Washington. At a short
+distance from this town, we had to cross White river again, near the west
+branch, which is much larger than the east branch. We attempted to ford
+it, and had got into the middle of the stream before we discovered that
+the bottom was quicksands. The horse was scared at the footing,--he
+plunged and broke the traces; however, after a tolerable wetting, we
+succeeded in getting safe out. A little above the place where we made the
+attempt, we found there was a ferry-flat. The ferryman considered our
+attempt as dangerous, for had we gone much further into the stream we
+should have shot into the quicksands in the deep current. This day the
+fates were most unpropitious to us; and had we had, like Socrates, a
+familiar demon at our elbow, he most assuredly would have warned us not
+to proceed. We had no sooner got into the ferry-flat, and pushed off from
+shore, than the horse tumbled overboard, carriage and all, and was with
+difficulty saved from drowning.
+
+We passed through Petersburg to Princeton; but having lost the track, and
+got into several _culs de sacs_, an occurrence which is by no means
+pleasant--as in this case you are unable to turn the carriage, and have no
+alternative but cutting down one or two small trees in order to effect a
+passage. After a great deal of danger and difficulty, we succeeded in
+returning on the true bridle-path, and arrived about ten at night in a
+small village, through which we had passed three hours before. The gloom
+and pitchy darkness of an American forest at night, cannot be conceived by
+the inhabitants of an open country, and the traversing a narrow path
+interspersed with stumps and logs is both fatiguing and dangerous. Our
+horse seemed so well aware of this danger, that whenever the night set
+in, he could not be induced to move, unless one of us walked a little in
+advance before him, when he would rest his nose on our arm and then
+proceed. We crossed the Potoka to Princeton, a neat town, surrounded by a
+fast settling country, and so on to Harmony.
+
+New Harmony is seated on the banks of the Wabash; and following the
+sinuosities of that river, it is distant sixty-four or five miles from the
+Ohio, but over land, not more than seventeen. This settlement was
+purchased by Messrs. Mac Clure and Owen from Mr. Rapp, in the year 1823.
+The Rappites had been in possession of the place for six years, during
+which they had erected several large brick buildings of a public nature,
+and sundry smaller ones as residences, and had cultivated a considerable
+quantity of land in the immediate vicinity of the town. Mr. Owen intended
+to have established here a community of union and mutual co-operation;
+but, from a too great confidence in the power of the system which he
+advocates, to _reform_ character, he has been necessitated to abandon that
+design at present.
+
+Harmony must have been certainly a desirable residence when it was the
+abode of the many literary and scientific characters who composed a part
+of that short-lived community. A few of these still linger here, and may
+be seen stalking through the streets of Harmony, like Marius among the
+ruins of Carthage, deploring the moral desolation that now reigns in this
+once happy place.
+
+Le Seur, the naturalist, and fellow traveller of Peron, in his voyage to
+the Austral regions, is still here. The suavity of manners, and the
+scientific acquirements of this gentleman, command the friendship and
+esteem of all those who have the pleasure of his acquaintance. He has a
+large collection of specimens connected with natural history, which the
+western parts of this country yield in abundance. The advantages presented
+here for the indulgence of retired habits, form at present the only
+attractions sufficient to induce him to live out of _la belle France_.
+
+Mr. Thomas Say, of Philadelphia, who accompanied Major Long on his
+expedition to the Rocky Mountains, also resides here. He too is a recluse,
+and is now preparing a work on his favourite subject, natural history. His
+garden contains a tolerable collection of Mexican and other exotic plants.
+
+Harmony is built on the second bottom of the Wabash, and is perhaps half a
+mile from the river at low water, the first bottom being about that
+breadth. Mosquitos abound here, and are extremely troublesome. There are
+several orchards in the neighbourhood well stocked with apples, peaches,
+&c.; and the soil being rich alluvion, the farms are productive--so much
+as fifty dollars per acre is asked for cleared land, close to the town.
+There is a great scarcity of money here, as in most parts of Indiana, and
+trade is chiefly carried on by barter. Pork, lard, corn, bacon, beans,
+&c., being given, by the farmers, to the store-keepers, in exchange for
+dry goods, cutlery, crockery-ware, &c. The store-keepers either sell the
+produce they have thus collected to river-traders, or forward it to New
+Orleans on their own account.
+
+We made an excursion down the river in true Indian style. Our party,
+consisting of four, equipped in a suitable manner, the weather being then
+delightfully warm, having stowed on board a canoe plenty of provisions,
+paddled down the Wabash. The scenery on the banks of this river is
+picturesque. The foliage in some places springs from the water's edge,
+whilst at other points it recedes, leaving a bar of fine white sand. The
+breadth of the Wabash, at Harmony, is about 200 yards, and it divides
+frequently on its course to the Ohio, forming islands of various degrees
+of beauty and magnitude. On one of these, about six miles from Harmony,
+called the "Cut-off," we determined on encamping. Accordingly, we moored
+our canoe--pitched our tent--lighted our fire--bathed--and having
+acquired enormous appetites by exertion, commenced the very agreeable
+operation of demolishing our provisions. We roamed about that and an
+adjacent island, until evening, when we returned to regale. These islands
+are generally covered with "cane brakes," and low brush wood, which
+renders it difficult to effect a passage across them. Cotton-wood, beech,
+maple, hickory, and white oak, are the trees in greatest abundance.
+Spice-wood, sassafras, and dittany, are also plenty. Of these a decoction
+is made, which some of the woods-people prefer to tea; but it is not in
+general repute. The paw-paw tree (_annona triloba_) produces a fruit
+somewhat resembling in taste and shape the fig-banana, but certainly much
+inferior to that delicious fruit. We saw several deer in the woods, and
+some cranes upon the shore. With smoking, &c., we passed the evening, and
+then retired--not to bed, for we had none--but to a right good
+substitute, a few dry leaves strewn upon the ground--our heads covered by
+the tent, and at our feet a large fire, which we kept up the whole night.
+Thus circumstanced, we found it by no means disagreeable.
+
+We spent greater part of next day much after the manner of the preceding,
+and concluded that it would be highly irrational to shoot game, having
+plenty of provisions; yet I suspect our being too lazy to hunt, influenced
+us not a little in that philosophical decision.
+
+Whilst at Harmony, I collected some information relative to the failure of
+the community, and I shall here give a slight sketch of the result of my
+inquiries. I must observe that so many, and such conflicting statements,
+respecting public measures, I believe never were before made by a body of
+persons dwelling within limits so confined as those of Harmony. Some of
+the _ci-devant_ "communicants" call Robert Owen a fool, whilst others
+brand him with still more opprobrious epithets: and I never could get two
+of them to agree as to the primary causes of the failure of that
+community.
+
+The community was composed of a heterogeneous mass, collected together by
+public advertisement, which may be divided into three classes. The first
+class was composed of a number of well-educated persons, who occupied
+their time in eating and drinking--dressing and promenading--attending
+balls, and _improving the habits_ of society; and they may be termed the
+_aristocracy_ of this Utopian republic. The second class was composed of
+practical co-operators, who were well inclined to work, but who had no
+share, or voice, in the management of affairs. The third and last class
+was a body of theoretical philosophers--Stoics, Platonics, Pythagoreans,
+Epicureans, Peripatetics, and Cynics, who amused themselves in _striking
+out plans_--exposing the errors of those in operation--caricaturing--and
+turning the whole proceedings into ridicule.
+
+The second class, disliking the species of co-operation afforded them by
+the first class, naturally became dissatisfied with their inactivity--and
+the third class laughed at them both. Matters were in this state for some
+time, until Mr. Owen found the funds were completely exhausted. He then
+stated that the community should divide; and that he would furnish land,
+and all necessary materials, for operations, to such of them as wished to
+form a community apart from the original establishment. This intimation
+was enough. The first class, with few exceptions, retired, followed by
+part of both the others, and all exclaiming against Mr. Owen's conduct. A
+person named Taylor, who had entered into a distillery speculation with
+one of Mr. Owen's sons, seized this opportunity to get the control of part
+of the property. Mr. Owen became embarrassed. Harmony was on the point of
+being sold by the sheriff--discord prevailed, and co-operation ceased.
+
+Of the many private and public charges brought against Mr. Owen, I shall
+only notice one. It is said that he invited people to throw up their
+establishments in other parts of America, and come to Harmony, conscious
+at the same time that the community could not succeed, and, indeed, not
+caring much about its success, having ultimately in view the increase of
+the value of his purchase, by collecting a number of persons together, and
+thus making a town--a common speculation in America. Whether these were
+his intentions or not, it is impossible for any man to assert or deny; but
+the fact is no less true, that such has been the result, and that the
+purchase has been increased in value by the failure of the community, so
+that _ultimately_ he is not likely to lose anything by the experiment. As
+to Mr. Owen's statements in public, "that he had been informed that the
+people of America were capable of governing themselves, and that he tried
+the experiment, and found they were not so,"--and that "the place having
+been purchased, it was necessary to get persons to occupy it." These
+constitute but an imperfect excuse for having induced the separation of
+families, caused many thriving establishments to be broken up, and even
+the ruin of some few individuals, who, although their capital was but
+small, yet having thrown it all into the common stock, when the community
+failed, found themselves in a state of complete destitution. These
+persons, then, forgetting the "doctrine of circumstances," and everything
+but the result, and the promises of Mr. Owen, censured him in no measured
+language, and cannot be convinced of the purity of his intentions in
+_that_ affair. Indeed, they have always at hand such a multiplicity of
+facts to prove that Mr. Owen himself mainly contributed to the failure,
+that one must be blinded by that partiality which so known a
+philanthropist necessarily inspires, not to be convinced that, however
+competent he may be to preach the doctrines of co-operation, he is
+totally incompetent to carry them into effect.
+
+But Mr. Owen has also declared in public that "the New Harmony experiment
+succeeded beyond his most sanguine expectations." Now what may be his
+peculiar notions of success, the public are totally ignorant, as he did
+not think fit to furnish any explanation; but this the public do know,
+that between the former and the latter statement there is a slight
+discrepancy.
+
+Some of Mr. Owen's friends _in London_ say, that every thing went on well
+at Harmony until he gave up the management--that is, that he governed the
+community for the first few weeks, the short period of its prosperity, and
+that it declined only from the time of his ceding the dictatorship. Now
+Mr. Owen _himself_ says, that he only interfered when he observed they
+were going wrong; implying that he did not interfere in the commencement,
+but did so subsequently. These are contradictions which would require a
+good deal of mystification to reconcile in appearance. All the
+communicants whom I met in America, although they differed on almost every
+other point, yet agreed on this,--that Mr. Owen interfered from first to
+last during his stay at Harmony, and that at the time when he first
+quitted it nothing but discord prevailed.
+
+Very little experience of a residence in the backwoods convinced Mr. Owen
+that he was not in the situation most consonant with his feelings. He had
+been, when in Europe, surrounded by people who regarded him as an oracle,
+and received his _ipse dixit_ as a sufficient solution for every
+difficulty. His situation at Harmony was very different; for most of the
+persons who came there had been accustomed to exercise their judgment in
+matters of practice, and this Mr. Owen is said not to have been able to
+endure. He would either evade, or refuse, answering direct questions,
+which naturally made men so accustomed to independence as the Americans
+are, indignant. The usual answer he gave to any presuming disciple who
+ventured to request an explanation, was, that "his young friend" was in a
+total state of ignorance, and that he should therefore attend the lectures
+more constantly for the future. There is this peculiarity respecting the
+philosophy propounded by Mr. Owen, which is, that after a pupil has been
+attending his lectures for eighteen months, he (Mr. Owen) declares that
+the said pupil knows nothing at all about his system. This certainly
+argues a defect either in matter or manner.
+
+His followers appear not to be aware of the fact, that Mr. Owen has not
+originated a single new idea in his whole book, but has simply put forward
+the notions of Rousseau, Voltaire, Condorcet, Plato, Sir Thomas More, &c.,
+in other language. His merit consists in this, and no small merit it is,
+that he has collated the ideas of these philosophers--arranged them in a
+tangible shape, and has devoted time and money to assist their
+dissemination.
+
+I find on one of his cards, printed for distribution, the following
+axioms, in the shape of queries, set forth as being _his_ doctrine,--not
+the doctrine which _he advocates_.
+
+"Does it depend upon man to be born of such and such parents?
+
+"Can he choose to take, or not to take, the opinions of his parents and
+instructors?
+
+"If born of Pagan or Mahometan parents, was it in his power to become a
+Christian?"
+
+These positions are laid down by Rousseau, in many passages of his works;
+but as one quotation will be sufficient to establish my assertion, I shall
+not trouble myself to look for others. He says, in his "Lettre à M. de
+Beaumont," p. 124, "A l'égard des objections sur les sectes particuliéres
+dans lesquelles l'universe est divisé, que ne puis-je leur donnez assez de
+force pour rendre chacun moins entêté de la sienne et moins ennemi des
+autres; pour porter chacque homme à l'indulgence, à la douceur, par cette
+consideration si frappante et si naturelle; que s'il fut né dans un autre
+pays, dans une autre secte il prendrait infailliblement pour l'erreur ce
+qu'il prends pour la verité, et pour la verité, ce qu'il prends pour
+l'erreur."
+
+None but a man whose mind had been warped by the too constant
+contemplation of one particular subject, as Mr. Owen's mind has been
+warped by the eternal consideration of the Utopian republic, could suppose
+the practicability of carrying those plans into full effect during the
+existence of the present generation. He himself, whilst preaching to his
+handful of disciples the doctrine of perfect equality, is acting on quite
+different principles; and he has his new lecture-room divided into
+compartments separating the classes in society--thus proving that even his
+few followers are unprepared for such a change as he wishes to introduce
+into society, and that he finds the necessity of temporising even with
+_them_.
+
+Another proof of the variance there is between the theory and the practice
+of Mr. Owen, may be found in the constitution of his new community. The
+first article says, that, "An annual subscription paid, of not less than
+one pound, constitutes _a member_, who is entitled to attend and _vote_ at
+all public meetings of the association." These may be termed the
+twenty-shilling freeholders of the community.[4] Then follow the other
+grades and conditions. A donation of one hundred pounds, constitutes _a
+visitor_ for life: a donation of five hundred pounds, _a vice-president_
+for life: and a donation of one thousand pounds, _a president_, who, "in
+addition to the last-mentioned privileges," will enjoy many others of a
+valuable nature.
+
+King James sold two hundred baronetcies of the United Kingdom, for one
+thousand pounds each; and Mr. Owen offers an unlimited number of
+presidentships in his incipient Utopia on the same advantageous terms. I
+by no means dispute that the distinction Mr. Owen will confer on his
+purchasers may be quite as valuable, in his eyes and those of his
+disciples, as that conferred by King James; yet I cannot help suspecting,
+despite of the insatiable yearning the aristocracy have after
+vain-glorious titles, that few of them will come forward as candidates for
+his Utopian honours.
+
+FOOTNOTES:
+
+[4] Since writing the above, I find that the constitution has already
+undergone an essential change; but Mr. Owen appears to entertain views of
+reformation very different indeed from our present Whig administration,
+for he has actually placed both _members_ and _visitors_ in schedule (A)
+of _his_ reform bill, and at one fell swoop has deprived this most
+deserving class of all political existence. None but vice-presidents and
+presidents have now the power of voting.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER V.
+
+
+Having remained about a fortnight at Harmony, we made the necessary
+arrangements, and, accompanied by B----, set out for St. Louis, in
+Missouri. We crossed the Wabash into Illinois, and proceeded to Albion,
+the settlement made by the late Mr. Birkbeck.
+
+Albion is at present a small insignificant town surrounded by prairies, on
+which there are several handsome farms. Messrs. Birkbeck and Flowers
+purchased large tracts of land in this neighbourhood, for the purpose of
+re-selling or letting it to English or other emigrants. These two
+gentlemen were of the class called in England, "gentlemen farmers," and
+brought with them from that country very large capitals; a considerable
+portion of which, in addition to the money laid out on purchase, they
+expended on improvements. They are both now dead--their property has
+entirely passed into other hands, and the members of their families who
+still remain in this country are in comparative indigence.
+
+The most inveterate hostility was manifested by the backwoods people
+towards those settlers, and the series of outrages and annoyances to which
+they were exposed, contributed not a little to shorten their days. It at
+length became notorious that neither Birkbeck nor Flowers could obtain
+redress for any grievance whatever, unless by appealing to the superior
+courts,--as both the magistrates and jurors were exclusively of the class
+of the offenders; and the "Supreme Court of the United States" declared,
+that the verdicts of the juries, and the decisions of the magistrates
+were, in many cases, so much at variance with the evidences, that they
+were disgraceful to the country. A son of the latter gentleman, a lad
+about fourteen years old, was killed in open day whilst walking in his
+father's garden, by a blow of an axe handle, which was flung at him across
+the fence. The evidence was clear against the murderer, and yet he was
+acquitted. Whilst I was at Vandalia, I saw in a list of lands for sale,
+amongst other lots to be sold for taxes, one of Mr. Flowers'. The fate of
+these gentlemen and their families should be a sufficient warning to
+persons of their class in England, not to attempt settling _in the
+backwoods_; or if they have that idea, to leave aside altogether refined
+notions, and never to bring with them either the feelings or the habits of
+a _gentleman farmer_. The whole secret and cause of this _guerre à mort_,
+declared by the backwoodsmen against Messrs. Birkbeck and Flowers, was,
+that when they first settled upon the prairies, they attempted to act the
+_patron_ and the _benefactor_, and considered themselves _entitled_ to
+some respect. Now a west-country American would rather die like a cock on
+a dunghill, than be patronized after the English fashion; he is not
+accustomed to receive benefactions, and cannot conceive that any man would
+voluntarily confer favours on him, without expecting something in return,
+either in the shape of labour, or goods;--and as to respect, that has
+totally disappeared from his code since "the Declaration."
+
+Mr. Birkbeck was called "Emperor of the Prairies;" and notwithstanding the
+hostility of his neighbours, he seems to have been much respected in the
+other parts of Illinois, as he was chosen secretary of state; and in that
+character he died, in 1825. He at last devoted himself entirely to gaining
+political influence, seeing that it was the duty of every man in a free
+country to be a politician, and that he who "takes no interest in
+political affairs," must be a bad man, or must want capacity to act in the
+common occurrences of life.
+
+From Albion we proceeded towards the Little Wabash; but had not got many
+miles from that town, when an accident occurred which delayed us some
+time. We were driving along through a wood of scrub-oak, or barren, when
+our carriage, coming in contact with a stump that lay concealed beneath
+high grass, was pitched into a rut--it was upset--and before we could
+recover ourselves, away went the horse dashing through the wood, leaving
+the hind wheels and body of the vehicle behind. He took the path we had
+passed over, and fortunately halted at the next corn-field. We repaired
+the damage in a temporary manner, and again set forward.
+
+After having crossed the Little Wabash, we had to pass through three miles
+of swamp frequently above our ancles in the mire, for the horse could
+scarcely drag the empty waggon. We at length came out on "Hardgrove's
+prairie." The prospect which here presented itself was extremely
+gratifying to our eyes. Since I had left the little prairie in the
+Wyandot reserve, I had been buried in eternal forests; and,
+notwithstanding all the efforts one may make to rally one's spirits, still
+the heart of a European sickens at the sameness of the scene, and he
+cannot get rid of the idea of imprisonment, where the visible horizon is
+never more distant than five or six hundred yards. Yet this is the delight
+of an Indian or a backwoodsman, and the gloomy ferocity that characterizes
+these people is evidently engendered by the surrounding scenery, and may
+be considered as indigenous to the forest. Hardgrove's is perhaps the
+handsomest prairie in Illinois--before us lay a rich green undulating
+meadow, and on either side, clusters of trees, interspersed through this
+vast plain in beautiful irregularity--the waving of the high grass, and
+the distant groves rearing their heads just above the horizontal line,
+like the first glimpse of land to the weary navigator, formed a
+combination of ideas peculiar to the scene which lay before us.
+
+With the exception of one or two miles of wood, occasionally, the whole of
+our journey through Illinois lay over prairie ground, and the roads were
+so level, that without any extraordinary exertion on the part of our
+horse, he carried us from thirty to forty miles a day.
+
+We next crossed the "grand prairie," passing over the Indian trace.
+Although this is by no means so picturesque as Hardgrove's, yet the
+boundless prospect that is presented on first entering this prairie is far
+the more sublime--the ideas expand, and the imagination is carried far
+beyond the limits of the eye. We saw some deer scouring the plains, and
+several "prairie wolves" skulking in the high grass--this animal is
+sometimes destructive to sheep. The size is about that of our fox. Most
+farmers keep three or four hounds, which are trained to combat the wolf.
+The training is thus--a dead wolf is first shewn to a young dog, when he
+is set on to tear it; the next process is to muzzle a live wolf, and tie
+him to a stake, when the dog of course kills him; the last is, setting the
+dog on an unmuzzled wolf, which has been tied to a stake, with his legs
+shackled. The dog being thus accustomed to be always the victor, never
+fails to attack and kill the prairie wolf whenever he meets him.
+
+Within thirteen miles of Carlisle, we stopped at an inn, a solitary
+establishment, the nearest habitation being more than six miles distant.
+The landlord, Mr. Elliot, told us that he was unable to accommodate us
+with beds, as his house was already quite full; but that if we could
+dispense with beds, he would provide us with every thing else. Having no
+alternative, we of course acceded to his proposal. There was then holding
+at his house what is termed an "inn fair," or the day after the wedding.
+The marriage takes place at the house of the bride's father, and the day
+following a party is given by the bridegroom, when he takes home his wife.
+The people here assembled had an extremely healthy appearance, and some
+of the girls were decidedly handsome, having, with fine florid
+complexions, regular features and good teeth. The landlord and his sons
+were very civil, as indeed were all the company there assembled.
+
+A great many respectable English yeomen have at different periods settled
+in Illinois, which has contributed not a little to improve the state of
+society; for the inhabitants of these prairies, generally speaking, are
+much more agreeable than those of most other parts of the western country.
+
+When the night was tolerably far advanced, the decks were cleared, and
+three feather beds were placed _seriatem_ on the floor, on which a general
+scramble took place for berths--we wrapped ourselves in our cloaks, and
+lay seventeen in a bed until morning, when we arose, and went out to "have
+a wash." The practice at all inns and boarding-houses throughout the
+western country, excepting at those in the more considerable towns, is to
+perform ablutions gregariously, under one of the porches, either before or
+behind the house--thus attendance is avoided, and the interior is kept
+free from all manner of pollutions.
+
+An abundance of good stone-coal is found all through this state, of which
+I saw several specimens. Were it not for this circumstance, the difficulty
+of procuring wood for fuel and fencing, would more than counterbalance the
+advantages, in other respects, presented to settlers on the prairies.
+
+The average crops of Indian corn are about fifty bushels per acre, which
+when planted, they seldom plough or hoe more than once. In the bottom
+lands of Indiana and Ohio, from seventy to eighty bushels per acre is
+commonly produced, but with twice the quantity of labour and attention,
+independent of the trouble of clearing. There are two denominations of
+prairie: the upland, and the river or bottom prairie; the latter is more
+fertile than the former, having a greater body of alluvion, yet there are
+many of the upland prairies extremely rich, particularly those in the
+neighbourhood of the Wabash. The depth of the vegetable soil on some of
+those plains, has been found frequently to be from eighteen to twenty
+feet, but the ordinary depth is more commonly under five. The upland
+prairies are much more extensive than the river prairies, and are
+invariably free from intermittent fever--an exemption, which to emigrants
+must be of the utmost importance.
+
+Previous to our leaving Elliott's inn, we witnessed a chase of two wolves,
+which had the boldness to come to the sheep-pens close to the house.
+Unfortunately the dogs were not at hand, and the wolves escaped among the
+high grass. Mr. Elliott positively refused accepting of any compensation
+in lieu of our supper and lodging: he said he considered our lodging a
+thing not to be spoken of; and as to our supper--which by-the-by was a
+capital one--he had invited us to that. We merely paid for the horse,
+thanked him for his hospitality, and departed. During our journey through
+Indiana we had invariably to use persuasion, in order to induce the
+farmers to take money for either milk or fruit; and whenever we stayed at
+a farm-house, we never paid more than what appeared to be barely
+sufficient to cover the actual cost of what we consumed.
+
+At Carlisle, a village containing about a dozen houses, we got our vehicle
+repaired. We required a new shaft: the smith walked deliberately out--cast
+his eye on a rail of the fence close by, and in half an hour he had
+finished a capital shaft of white oak.
+
+The next town we came to was Lebanon, and we determined on staying there
+that evening, in order to witness a revival. They have no regular places
+of worship on the prairies, and the inhabitants are therefore subject to
+the incursions of itinerant preachers, who migrate annually, in swarms,
+from the more thickly settled districts. There appeared to be a great
+lack of zeal among the denizens of Lebanon, as notwithstanding the
+energetic exhortations of the preachers, and their fulminating
+denunciations against backsliders, they failed in exciting much
+enthusiasm. The meeting ended, as is customary on such occasions, by a
+collection for the preachers, who set out on horseback, next morning, to
+levy contributions on another body of the natives.
+
+From Lebanon we proceeded across a chain of hills, and came in on a
+beautiful plain, called the "American bottom." Some of those hills were
+clear to the summit, while others were crowned with rich foliage. Before
+us, to the extreme right, were six or seven tumuli, or "Indian mounds;"
+and to the left, and immediately in front, lay a handsome wood. From the
+hills to the river is about six miles; and this space appears evidently to
+have been a lake at some former period, previous to the Mississippi's
+flowing through its present deep channel. Several stagnant ponds lay by
+our road; sufficient indications of the presence of disease, which this
+place has the character of producing in abundance. The beauty of the spot,
+and the fertility of the soil, have, notwithstanding, induced several
+English families to settle here. Their houses are built of brick, and
+their gardens and farms are laid out and fenced tastefully.
+
+After traversing the wood, we at length came in sight of the Mississippi,
+which is here about three quarters of a mile broad. There is a steam
+ferry-boat stationed at this point, (opposite St. Louis), the construction
+of which is rather singular. It is built nearly square, having in the
+middle a house containing two spacious apartments, and on each side decks,
+on which stand horses, oxen, waggons and carriages of every description.
+
+St. Louis is built on a bluff bank. The _principal_ streets rise one above
+the other, running parallel with the river; the houses are mostly built of
+stone, the bank being entirely composed of that material, the walls
+whitewashed, and the roofs covered with tin: from the opposite side it
+presents a very gay appearance. The ascent from the water's edge to the
+back of the town is considerable, but regular. The streets intersect each
+other at right angles, as do those of most American towns. They are much
+too narrow, having been laid down and built on from a plan designed by the
+Spanish commandant, previous to the Missouri territory becoming part of
+the United States. The population is estimated at six thousand, composed
+of Creole-French, Irish, and Americans.
+
+St. Louis must, at some future period, become decidedly the most important
+town in the western country, from its local and relative situation. It is
+seated on the most favourable point below the mouths of two noble rivers,
+the Missouri and the Illinois,[5] having at its back an immense tract of
+fertile country, and open and easy communication with the finest parts of
+the western and north-western territories. These advantages, added to the
+constant and uninterrupted intercourse which it enjoys with the southern
+ports, must ultimately make St. Louis a town of wealth and magnitude.
+
+We visited General Clarke's museum, which chiefly contains Indian costumes
+and implements of war, with some minerals and fossils, a portion of which
+he collected while on the expedition to the Rocky mountains with Lewis;
+and also, two sods of good black turf, from the bogs of Allen, in Ireland.
+A sight which was quite exhilarating, and reminded me so strongly of the
+fine odour which exhales from the products of illicit distillation, that
+guagers and potteen, like the phantoms of hallucination, were presenting
+themselves continually to my imagination for the remainder of that day.
+
+General Clarke is a tall, robust, grey-headed old man, with beetle-brows,
+and uncouthly aspect: his countenance is expressive of anything but
+intelligence; and his celebrity is said to have been gained principally by
+his having been the _companion_ of Lewis to the Rocky mountains.
+
+The country around St. Louis is principally prairie, and the soil
+luxuriant. There are many excellent farms, and some fine herds of cattle,
+in the neighbourhood: yet the supply of produce seems to be insufficient,
+as considerable quantities are imported annually from Louisville and
+Cincinnati. The principal lots of ground in and near the town are at the
+disposal of some five or six individuals, who, having thus created a
+monopoly, keep up the price. This, added to the little inducement held out
+to farming people in a slave state, where no man can work himself without
+losing _caste_, has mainly contributed to retard the increase of
+population and prosperity in the neighbourhood of St. Louis.
+
+There are two fur companies established here. The expeditions depart early
+in spring, and generally return late in autumn. This trade is very
+profitable. A person who is at present at the head of one of those
+companies, was five years ago a bankrupt, and is now considered wealthy.
+He bears the character of being a regular Yankee; and if the never giving
+a direct answer to a plain question constitutes a Yankee, he is one most
+decidedly. We had some intention of crossing to Santa Fé, in New Mexico,
+and we accordingly waited on him for the purpose of making some inquiries
+relative to the departure of the caravans; but to any of the plain
+questions we asked, we could not get a satisfactory answer,--at length,
+becoming tired of hedge-fighting, we departed, with quite as much
+information as we had before the interview.
+
+A trapping expedition is being fitted out for the Rocky mountains, on an
+extensive scale. The number of persons intended to be employed on this, is
+about two hundred. Teams for the transportation of merchandize and
+luggage are preparing, which is an accommodation never enjoyed before by
+trappers, as pack-horses have always hitherto been substituted. These
+waggons may also be found useful as _barricades_, in case of an attack
+from the Indians. The expedition will be absent two or three years.
+
+A trade with Santa Fé is also established. In the Spanish country the
+traders receive, in exchange for dry goods and merchandize of every
+description, specie, principally; which makes money much more plentiful
+here than in any other town in the western country.
+
+The caravans generally strike away, near the head waters of the Arkansas
+and Red rivers, to the south-west, close to the foot of the Rocky
+mountains--travelling above a thousand miles through the Indian country
+before they reach the Mexican boundary. These journeys are long and
+tedious, and require men of nerve and muscle to undertake them; the
+morasses and rivers which they have to cross--the extensive prairies and
+savannahs they have to traverse, and the dense forests to penetrate, are
+sufficient to subdue any but iron constitutions.
+
+The countries west of the Mississippi are likely to be greatly enriched by
+the trade with Mexico; as, in addition to the vast quantities of valuable
+merchandize procured from that country, specie to a very large amount is
+put in circulation, which to a new country is of incalculable advantage.
+The party which lately returned to Fayette in Missouri, brought 200,000
+dollars in specie.
+
+The lead-mines of Galena and Potosi inundate St. Louis with that metal.
+The latter mines are extensive, consisting of forty in number, and are
+situated near the head of Big-river, which flows into the Merrimac: a
+water transportation is thus effected to the Mississippi, eighteen miles
+below St. Louis. This, however, is only in the spring and fall, as at
+other seasons the Merrimac is not navigable for common-sized boats, at a
+greater distance than fifty miles from its mouth. The Merrimac is upwards
+of 200 miles in length, and at its outlet it is about 200 yards in
+breadth.
+
+The principal buildings in St. Louis are, the government-house, the
+theatre, the bank of the United States, and three or four Catholic and
+Protestant churches. The Catholic is the prevalent religion. There are two
+newspapers published here. Cafés, billiard tables, dancing houses, &c.,
+are in abundance.
+
+The inhabitants of St. Louis more resemble Europeans in their manners and
+habits than any other people I met with in the west. The more wealthy
+people generally spend some time in New Orleans every year, which makes
+them much more sociable, and much less _brusque_ than their neighbours.
+
+We visited Florissant, a French village, containing a convent and a young
+ladies' seminary. The country about this place pleased us much. We passed
+many fine farms--through open woodlands, which have much the appearance
+of domains--and across large tracts of sumach, the leaves of which at this
+season are no longer green, but have assumed a rich crimson hue. The
+Indians use these leaves as provision for the pipe.
+
+We stayed for eight days at a small village on the banks of the
+Mississippi, about six miles below St. Louis, and four above Jefferson
+barracks, called Carondalet, or, _en badinage, "vide poche."_ The
+inhabitants are nearly all Creole-French, and speak a miserable _patois_.
+The same love of pleasure which, with bravery, characterizes the French
+people in Europe, also distinguishes their descendants in Carondalet.
+Every Saturday night _les garçons et les filles_ meet to dance quadrilles.
+The girls dance well, and on these occasions they dress tastefully. These
+villagers live well, dress well, and dance well, but have
+miserable-looking habitations; the house of a Frenchman being always a
+secondary consideration. At one of those balls I observed a very pretty
+girl surrounded by gay young Frenchmen, with whom she was flirting in a
+style that would not have disgraced a belle from the _Faubourg St. Denis_,
+and turning to my neighbour, I asked him who she was; he replied, "Elle
+s'appelle Louise Constant, monsieur,--c'est la rose de village." Could a
+peasant of any other nation have expressed himself so prettily, or have
+been gallant with such a grace?
+
+Accompanied by our landlord, we visited Jefferson barracks. The officer to
+whom we had an introduction not being _chez-lui_ at that time, we were
+introduced to some other officers by our host, who united in his single
+person the triple capacity of squire, or magistrate, newspaper proprietor,
+and tavern-keeper. The officers, as may be expected, are men from every
+quarter of the Union, whose manners necessarily vary and partake of the
+character of their several states.
+
+The barracks stand on the bluffs of the Mississippi, and, with the river's
+bank, they form a parallelogram--the buildings are on three sides, and
+the fourth opens to the river; the descent from the extremity of the area
+to the water's edge is planted with trees, and the whole has a picturesque
+effect. These buildings have been almost entirely erected by the soldiers,
+who are compelled to work from morning till night at every kind of
+laborious employment. This arrangement has saved the state much money; yet
+the propriety of employing soldiers altogether in this manner is very
+questionable. Desertions are frequent, and the punishment hitherto
+inflicted for that crime has been flogging; but Jackson declares now that
+shooting must be resorted to. The soldiers are obliged to be servilely
+respectful to the officers, _pulling off_ the undress cap at their
+approach. This species of discipline may be pronounced inconsistent with
+the institutions of the country, yet when we come to consider the
+materials of which an _American_ regular regiment is composed, we shall
+find the difficulty of producing order and regularity in such a body much
+greater than at first view might be apprehended. In this country any man
+who wishes to work may employ himself profitably, consequently all those
+who sell their liberty by enlisting must be the very dregs of society--men
+without either character or industry--drunkards, thieves, and culprits who
+by flight have escaped the penitentiary, and enlisted under the impression
+that the life of a soldier was one of idleness; in which they have been
+most grievously mistaken. When we take these facts into consideration, the
+difficulty of managing a set of such fellows will appear more than a
+little. Yet unquestionably there are individuals among the officers whose
+bearing is calculated to inspire any thing but that respect which they so
+scrupulously exact, and without which they declare it would be impossible
+to command. The drillings take place on Sundays.
+
+Near Carondalet we visited two slave-holders, who employed slaves in
+agriculture; which practice experience has shewn in every instance to be
+unprofitable. One had thirteen; and yet every thing about his house rather
+indicated poverty than affluence. These slaves lived in a hut, among the
+outhouses, about twelve feet square--men, women, and children; and in
+every respect were fully as miserable and degraded in condition as the
+unfortunate wretches who reside in the lanes and alleys of St. Giles' and
+Spitalfields, with this exception, that _they_ were well fed. The other
+slave-holder, brother of the former, lived much in the same manner;--but
+it is necessary to observe that both these persons were hunters, and that
+hunters have nothing good in their houses but dogs and venison.
+
+T---- having gone on a hunting excursion with our host, and some of his
+friends, B---- and I drove the ladies to the plantation of the latter
+gentleman. He had a farm on the bluffs, which was broken and irregular, as
+is always the case in those situations. Large holes, called "sink-holes,"
+are numerous along these banks; the shape of them is precisely that of an
+inverted cone, through the apex of which the water sinks, and works its
+way into the river. Cedar trees grow on the rocks, and the scenery is in
+many places extremely grand. Wild-geese congregate in multitudes on the
+islands in the Mississippi, and at night send forth the most wild and
+piercing cries.
+
+Our hostess was one of those sylvan Amazons who could handle any thing,
+from the hunting-knife to the ponderous axe; and she dressed in the true
+sylph-like costume of the backwoods. Her _robe_, which appeared to be the
+only garment with which she encumbered herself, fitted her, as they say at
+sea, "like a purser's shirt on a handspike," and looked for all the world
+like an inverted sack, with appropriate apertures cut for head and arms;
+she wore shoes, in compliment to her guests--her hair hung about her
+shoulders in true Indian style; and altogether she was a genuine sample
+of backwoods' civilization. We were placed in a good bed--the state-bed of
+course--and as we lay, paid our devotions to Urania, and contemplated the
+beauties of the starry firmament, through an aperture in the roof which
+would have admitted a jackass.
+
+The proprietor assured us that his slaves produced him no more than the
+bare interest of the money invested in their purchase, and that he was a
+slave-holder not from choice, but because it was the prevailing practice
+of the country. He said he had two handsome Mulatto girls hired out at the
+barracks for six dollars per month each.
+
+In St. Louis there were seven Indian chiefs, hostages from the Ioway
+nation. Their features were handsome--with one exception, they had all
+aquiline noses--they were tall and finely proportioned, and altogether as
+fine-looking fellows as I ever saw. The colour of these Indians was much
+redder than that of any others I had seen; their heads were shaven, with
+the exception of a small stripe, extending from the centre of the
+crown back to the _organ of philoprogenitiveness_--the gallant
+scalping-lock--which was decorated with feathers so as somewhat to
+resemble the crest of a Greek or Roman helmet. Their bodies were uncovered
+from the waist upwards, except when they wore blankets, a modern
+substitute for the buffalo-robe, which they commonly wore over the left
+shoulder, leaving the right arm and breast bare. The Ioways are a nation
+dwelling in the Missouri territory, and these hostages delivered
+themselves up pending the investigation of an affray that had taken place
+between their people and the backwoodsmen.
+
+The day previous to our departure from St. Louis, the investigation took
+place in the Museum, which is also the office of Indian affairs. There
+were upwards of twenty Indians present, including the hostages. The charge
+made against these unfortunate people and on which they had been obliged
+to come six or seven hundred miles, to stand their trial before _white
+judges_, was, "that the Ioways had come down on the white
+territory--killed the cattle, and attacked the settlers, by which attack
+four citizens lost their lives." The principal chief implicated in the
+affair, named "Big-neck," was called upon for his defence. In the person
+of this man there was nothing remarkable. He advanced into the centre of
+the room, and disengaging his right arm from the blanket, shook hands with
+the judges, and then, in succession, with all the officers of the court.
+This ceremony being ended, he paused, and drawing himself up to his full
+height, extended his arm forward towards the judge, and inclining his head
+a little in the same direction, said, "If I had done that of which my
+white brother accuses me, I would not stand here now. The words of my
+red-headed father (General Clarke) have passed through both my ears, and I
+have remembered them. I am accused, and I am not guilty." (The
+interpreter translated each sentence as it was delivered, and gave it as
+nearly verbatim as possible--observe, the pronoun I is here used
+figuratively, for _his party, and for the tribe_). "I thought I would come
+down to see my red-headed father, to hold a talk with him.--I come across
+the line (boundary)--I see the cattle of my white brother dead--I see the
+Sauk kill them in great numbers--I said that there would be trouble--I
+turn to go to my village--I find I have no provisions--I say, let us go
+down to our white brother, and trade our powder and shot for a little--I
+do so, and again turn upon my tracks, until I reach my village."--He here
+paused, and looking sternly down the room, to where two Sauks sat, pointed
+his finger at them and said, "The Sauk, who always tells lie of me, goes
+to my white brother and says--the Ioway has killed your cattle. When the
+lie (the Sauk) had talked thus to my white brother, he comes, thirty, up
+to my village--we hear our brother is coming--we are glad, and leave our
+cabins to tell him he is welcome--but while I shake hands with my white
+brother," he said, pointing to his forehead, "my white brother shoots me
+through the head--my best chief--three of my young men, a squaw and his[6]
+child. We come from our huts unarmed--even without our blankets--and yet,
+while I shake hands with my white brother, he shoots me down--my best
+chief. My young men within, hear me shot--they rush out--they fire on my
+white brother--he falls, four--my people fly to the woods without their
+rifles." He then stated that four more Indians died in the forest of cold
+and starvation, fearing to return to their villages, and being without
+either blankets or guns. At length returning, and finding that their
+"great chiefs" had delivered themselves up, he came to stand his trial.
+
+The next person called was an old chief, named "Pumpkin," who corroborated
+the testimony of "Big-Neck," but had not been with the party when the
+Sauks were seen killing the cattle. When he came to that part of the story
+where the Indian comes from his wig-wam to meet the white man, he said,
+nearly in the same words used by Big-neck, "While I shake hands with my
+white brother, my white brother shoots me down--my best chief"--he here
+paused, and lifting his eyes above the heads of the auditors, his lip
+curling a little, but resuming again, almost immediately, its natural
+position, he pronounced in a low but distinct guttural tone, the Indian
+word meaning "_my_ son." His eye seemed fixed for a few seconds, and then,
+as if conscious of his weakness, and that the eyes of the great warriors
+of his tribe were upon him, he looked slowly round in a kind of solemn
+triumph, and resumed his tale. There was a strong feeling excited in the
+court by the misfortune of this old man, for the "best chief" of the
+Ioways was his _only_ son. The court asked the chiefs what they thought
+should be done in the matter? They spoke a few words to each other, and
+then answered promptly, that all they required was, that their white
+brother should be brought down also, and confronted with them. The
+prisoners were set at liberty on their parole.
+
+Nothing could have been more respectable than the silence and gravity of
+the Indians during the investigation. The hostages particularly, were
+really imposing in their appearance; an air of solemnity overspread their
+manly countenances, whilst their eyes bespoke that unquailing spirit which
+the habits and vicissitudes of a sylvan life are calculated rather to
+raise than depress. The Indians, when uncontaminated by the vices of the
+whites, are really a fine people; and it is melancholy to reflect that in
+a few centuries the red-man will be known only by name, for his total
+extinction seems almost inevitable.
+
+The upshot of this affair proved that the Indians' statement was correct,
+and a few presents was then thought sufficient to compensate the tribe for
+this most unwarrantable outrage.
+
+The fact of the prisoners being set free on their parole, proves the high
+character they maintain with the whites. An officer who had seen a great
+deal of service on the frontiers, assured me that, from _experience_, he
+had rather fall into the hands of the Indians, than of the
+backwoodsmen.[7] Once, while crossing one of the immense prairies in the
+Missouri territory during the winter season, this gentleman, Mr. R----,
+was seized with rheumatic pains, and unable to proceed. His party,
+consisting only of a few men, had no provisions, nor had they any means of
+taking him with them, being completely exhausted themselves--he was left
+on the plains to die. An old Indian chief, of one of the hostile tribes,
+chanced to find him; he carried him home, and nourished him until he was
+sufficiently recovered to eat with the warriors; when they came to the hut
+of his host, in order as they said to do honour to the unfortunate white
+chief. He remained in their village for two months; at the expiration of
+which time, being sufficiently recovered, they conducted him to the
+frontiers, took their leave, and retired.
+
+Clements Burleigh, who resided thirty years in the United States, says, in
+his "Advice to Emigrants," "It may be objected by some that it is
+dangerous to go to the frontier country, on account of the Indians, wild
+beasts, &c.; this is no more than a scarecrow. Indians in time of peace
+are perfectly inoffensive, and every dependence may be placed on them. If
+you call at their huts, you are invited to partake of what they have--they
+even will divide with you the last morsel they have, if they were starving
+themselves; and while you remain with them you are perfectly safe, as
+every individual of them would lose his life in your defence. This
+unfortunate portion of the human race has not been treated with that
+degree of justice and tenderness which people calling themselves
+Christians ought to have exercised towards them. Their lands have been
+forcibly taken from them in many instances without rendering them a
+compensation; and in their wars with the people of the United States, the
+most shocking cruelties have been exercised towards them. I myself fought
+against them in two campaigns, and was witness to scenes a repetition of
+which would chill the blood, and be only a monument of disgrace to people
+of my own colour.
+
+"Being in the neighbourhood of the Indians during the time of peace, need
+not alarm the emigrant, as the Indian will not be as dangerous to him as
+idle vagabonds that roam the woods and hunt. He has more to dread from
+these people of his own colour than from the Indians."
+
+FOOTNOTES:
+
+[5] Eighteen miles below the mouth of the Missouri, and thirty-six below
+that of the Illinois.
+
+[6] In the Indian tongue there is no distinction of masculine or feminine
+gender, but simply of animate and inanimate beings.
+
+[7] "The freedom of manners, and the uncertainty of life, from the
+various hazards to which it is inevitably exposed, imparts to the
+character of savages a species of liberality, under which are couched
+many benevolent principles; a respect for the aged, and in several
+instances a deference to their equals. The natural coldness of their
+temperament, admits of few outward demonstrations of civility. They are,
+however, affable in their mode, and are ever disposed to show towards
+strangers, and particularly towards the unfortunate, the strongest marks
+of hospitality. A savage will seldom hesitate to share with a
+fellow-creature oppressed by hunger, his last morsel of
+provisions."--Vide _Heriot_, p. 318.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER VI.
+
+
+On our return to Illinois from Missouri, we visited the tumuli in the
+"American bottom," for the purpose of more closely investigating the form
+and disposition of these sepulchral mounds. Their shape is invariably
+hemispherical, or of the _mamelle_ form. Throughout the country, from the
+banks of the Hudson to a considerable distance beyond the Mississippi,
+tumuli, and the remains of earthen fortifications were dispersed. Those of
+the former which have been removed, were found to contain human bones,
+earthen vessels, and utensils composed of alloyed metal; which latter fact
+is worthy of particular notice, as none of the Indians of North America
+are acquainted with the art of alloying. The vessels were generally of
+the form of drinking cups, or ewer-shaped cans, sometimes with a flange to
+admit a cover. One of those which I saw in a museum at Cincinnati, had
+three small knobs at the bottom on which it stood, and I was credibly
+informed that a dissenting clergyman, through the _esprit de métier_,
+undertook to prove from the circumstance, that the people who raised these
+mounds and fortifications must have been acquainted with the doctrine of
+the Trinity. How far the reverend gentleman is correct in his inference, I
+leave for theologians to decide.
+
+The Indians do not claim the mounds as depositories for _their_ dead, but
+are well aware of their containing human bones. They frequently encamp
+near them, and visit them on their journeys, but more as land marks than
+on any other account. They approach them with reverence, as they do all
+burial places, no matter of what people or nation. The Quapaws have a
+tradition, that they were raised "many hundred snows" ago, by a people
+that no longer exists; they say, that in those days game was so plenty
+that very little exertion was necessary to procure a subsistence, and
+there were then no wars--these happy people having then no employment,
+collected, merely for sport, these heaps of earth, which have ever since
+remained, and have subsequently been used by another people, who succeeded
+them, as depositories of their dead. Another tradition is, that they were
+erected by the Indians to protect them from the mammoths, until the Great
+Spirit took pity on his red children, and annihilated these enormous
+elephants. Most of the Indian nations concur in their having been the work
+of a people which had ceased to exist before the red men possessed those
+hunting grounds.
+
+The numerous mounds, fortifications, and burial caverns, and the skeletons
+and mummies, that have been discovered in these catacombs, sufficiently
+establish the fact, that a people altogether different from the present
+aborigines once inhabited these regions. At what period this by-gone
+people flourished still remains a matter of mere conjecture, for to the
+present time no discovery has been made that could lead to any plausible
+supposition.
+
+De Witt Clinton having paid more attention to the antiquities of America
+than any other person of whom I am aware, I shall here insert his
+description of the forts. He says, "These forts were, generally speaking,
+erected on the most commanding ground. The walls, or breastworks, were
+earthen. The ditches were on the exterior of the works. On some of the
+parapets, oak trees were to be seen, which, from the number of concentric
+circles, must have been standing one hundred and fifty, two hundred and
+sixty, and three hundred years; and there were evident indications, not
+only that they had sprung up since the erection of these works, but that
+they were at least a second growth. The trenches were in some cases deep
+and wide, and in others shallow and narrow; and the breastworks varied in
+altitude from three to eight feet. They sometimes had one, and sometimes
+two entrances, as was to be inferred from there being no ditches at those
+places. When the works were protected by a deep ravine, or large stream of
+water, no ditch was to be seen. The areas of these forts varied from two
+to six acres; and the form was in general an irregular ellipsis; in some
+of them, fragments of earthenware and pulverized substances, supposed to
+have been originally human bones, were to be found."
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+"I believe we may confidently pronounce, that all the hypotheses which
+attribute these works to Europeans are incorrect and fanciful: 1st. on
+account of the present number of the works; 2d. on account of their
+antiquity; having from every appearance been erected a long time before
+the discovery of America; and, finally, their form and manner are varient
+from European fortifications, either in ancient or modern times.
+
+"It is equally clear that they were not the work of the Indians. Until the
+Senecas, who are renowned for their national vanity, had seen the
+attention of the Americans attracted to these erections, and had invented
+the fabulous account of which I have spoken, the Indians of the present
+day did not pretend to know any thing about their origin. They were beyond
+the reach of all their traditions, and were lost in the abyss of
+unexplored antiquity."
+
+At the Bull shoals, east branch of White river in Missouri, several feet
+below the surface of the banks, _reliqua_ were found which indicated that
+this spot had formerly been the seat of metalurgical operations. The alloy
+appeared to be lead united with silver. Arrow-heads cut out of flint, and
+pieces of earthen pots which had evidently undergone the action of fire,
+were also found here. The period of time at which these operations were
+carried on in this place must have been very remote, as the present banks
+have been since entirely formed by alluvial deposits.
+
+Near the _Teel-te-nah_ (or dripping-fork), which empties itself into the
+La Platte, and not far distant from its junction with that river, there is
+an extensive cavern, in which are deposited several mummies. Some tribes
+which roam this region have a tradition, that the first Indian ascended
+through this aperture, and settled on the earth's surface.
+
+A few years since, on the Merrimac river in St. Louis county, a number of
+pigmy graves were discovered. The coffins were of stone; and the length of
+the bodies which they contained, judging from that of the coffins, could
+not have been more than from three feet and a half to four feet. The
+graves were numerous, and the skeletons in some instances nearly entire.
+
+In the month of June (1830), a party of gentlemen, whilst in pursuit of
+wild turkeys, in Hart county, Kentucky, discovered, on the top of a small
+knoll, a hole sufficiently large to admit a man's body. Having procured
+lights, they descended, and at the depth of about sixty feet, entered a
+cavern, sixteen or eighteen feet square, apparently hewn out of solid
+rock. The whole chamber was filled with human skeletons, which they
+supposed, _from the size_, to be those of women and children. The place
+was perfectly dry, and the bones were in a state of great preservation.
+They wished to ascertain how deep the bones lay, and dug through them
+between four and seven feet, but found them quite as plentiful as at the
+top: on coming to this depth, dampness appeared, and an unpleasant
+effluvia arising, obliged them to desist. There was no outlet to the
+cavern. A large snake, which appeared to be perfectly docile, passed
+several times round the apartment whilst they remained.
+
+In a museum at New York, I saw one of those mummies alluded to, which
+appeared to be remarkably small; but I had not an opportunity of examining
+it minutely. Those that have been found in the most perfect state of
+preservation were deposited in nitrous caves, and were enveloped in a
+manner so different from the practices of the Indians, that the idea
+cannot be entertained of their being the remains of the ancestors of the
+present race. Flint gives the following description of one of them which
+he carefully examined. He says, "The more the subject of the past races of
+men and animals in this region is investigated, the more perplexed it
+seems to become. The huge bones of the animals indicate them to be vastly
+larger than any that now exist on the earth. All that I have seen and
+heard of the remains of the men, would seem to shew that they were smaller
+than the men of our times. All the bodies that have been found in that
+high state of preservation, in which they were discovered in nitrous
+caves, were considerably smaller than the present ordinary stature of
+men. The two bodies that were found in the vast limestone cavern in
+Tennessee, one of which I saw at Lexington, were neither of them more than
+four feet in height. It seems to me that this must have been nearly the
+height of the living person. The teeth and nails did not seem to indicate
+the shrinking of the flesh from them in the desiccating process by which
+they were preserved. The teeth were separated by considerable intervals;
+and were small, long, white, and sharp, reviving the horrible images of
+nursery tales of ogres' teeth. The hair seemed to have been sandy, or
+inclining to yellow. It is well known that nothing is so uniform in the
+present Indian as his lank black hair. From the pains taken to preserve
+the bodies, and the great labour of making the funeral robes in which they
+were folded, they must have been of the 'blood-royal,' or personages of
+great consideration in their day. The person that I saw, had evidently
+died by a blow on the skull. The blood had coagulated there into a mass,
+of a texture and colour sufficiently marked to shew that it had been
+blood. The envelope of the body was double. Two splendid blankets,
+completely woven with the most beautiful feathers of the wild turkey,
+arranged in regular stripes and compartments, encircled it. The cloth on
+which these feathers were woven, was a kind of linen of neat texture, of
+the same kind with that which is now woven from the fibres of the nettle.
+The body was evidently that of a female of middle age, and I should
+suppose that her majesty weighed, when I saw her, six or eight pounds."
+
+The silly attempts that have been made to establish an oriental origin for
+the North American Indians, have never produced any other conviction in an
+unbiased mind, than that the _facts_ brought forward to support that
+theory existed only in the imaginations of those who advanced them. The
+colour, the form, the manners, habits, and propensities of the Indians,
+all combine to establish that they are a distinct race of human beings,
+and could never have emanated from any people of European, Asiatic, or
+African origin. The notion that climate would be sufficient to produce an
+essential change in the appearance of any number of individuals, cannot
+now be maintained; since from the discovery of America, Europeans,
+Africans, and Indians have inhabited all regions of this vast continent,
+without undergoing the slightest characteristic change from the
+descendants of the original stock, who have remained in their primitive
+locations. The Power that induces the existence of plants and lower
+animals indigenous to the different sections of the earth, seems also to
+induce the existence of a race of men peculiar to the regions in which
+they are found.
+
+The languages of America are radically different from those of the old
+world; and no similitude can be traced between the tongues of the red
+men, and those of any other people hitherto known. Jarvis, in his Paper on
+the Religion of the Indian Tribes of North America, says, "The best
+informed writers agree, that there are, exclusive of the Karalit or
+Esquimaux, three radical languages spoken by the Indians of North America.
+Mr. Heckwelder denominates them the Iroquois, the Lenapé, and the
+Floridian. The Iroquois is spoken by the Six Nations, the Wyandots, or
+Hurons, the Nandowessies, the Assiniboils, and other tribes beyond the St.
+Lawrence. The Lenapé, which is the most widely extended language on this
+side the Mississippi, was spoken by the tribes now extinct, who formerly
+inhabited Nova Scotia and the present state of Maine, the Abenakis,
+Micmacs, Canibas, Openangos, Soccokis, Etchemins, and Souriquois; dialects
+of it are now spoken by the Miamis, the Potawatomies, Missisangoes, and
+Kickapoos; the Eonestogas, Nanticokes, Shawanese, and Mohicans; the
+Algonquins, Knisteneaux, and Chippeways. The Floridian includes the
+languages of the Creeks, or Muskohgees, Chickesaws, Choctaws, Pascagoulas,
+Cherokees, Seminolese, and several other tribes in the southern states and
+Florida. These three languages are primitive; that is to say, are so
+distinct as to have no perceivable affinity. All, therefore, cannot be
+derived from the Hebrew; for it is a contradiction in terms to speak of
+three languages radically different, as derived from a common source.
+Which, then, we may well ask, is to be selected as the posterity of the
+Israelites: the Iroquois, the Lenapé, or the southern Indians?
+
+"Besides, there is one striking peculiarity in the construction of
+American languages, which has no counterpart in the Hebrew. Instead of the
+ordinary division of genders, they divide into animate and inanimate. It
+is impossible to conceive that any nation, in whatever circumstances they
+might be placed, could depart in so remarkable a manner from the idioms of
+their native language."
+
+M. Duponceau, a Frenchman settled at Philadelphia, who is perhaps one of
+the first philologists of the age, concludes a treatise on the same
+subject with the following deductions:
+
+1.--"That the American languages, in general, are rich in words and in
+grammatical forms; and that in their complicated construction, the
+greatest order, method, and regularity prevail."
+
+2.--"That these complicated forms, which I call polysinthetic, appear to
+exist in all those languages, from Greenland to Cape Horn."[8]
+
+3.--"That these forms appear to differ essentially from those of the
+ancient and modern languages of the old hemisphere."
+
+We intended to proceed direct from the banks of the Mississippi to
+Edwardsville, which lies in a north-easterly direction from St. Louis, but
+unfortunately got on the wrong track, an occurrence by no means uncommon
+on the prairies, and by this casualty visited Troy, a _town_ containing
+two houses, namely, a "groggery," and a farm-house, both owned by the one
+person. The only resemblance this trans-Atlantic Ilium can possibly bear
+to the city of the ten years' siege, lies in the difficulty of
+ascertaining its location; for had we not been informed that here stood
+the town of Troy, we should have passed through this, as we did through
+many others, without ever suspecting the fact. Town-making is quite a
+speculation in the western country; and the first thing a man does after
+purchasing a few hundred acres of ground, is to "lay off a town lot:" this
+causes the maps to be studded with little circular dots, and great big
+names attached to them, which would lead one to suppose the population to
+be much greater than it is in reality.
+
+From Edwardsville, we proceeded by Ripley and Greenville, to Vandalia, the
+seat of government of the state.
+
+The prairies had lost much of the brilliant green colour which they
+possessed when we before crossed them, and they were now assuming rather a
+burnt appearance. Towards the close of autumn the grass generally becomes
+so dry as to be easily ignited, which formerly took place by accident, or
+otherwise, almost every year. The sight must be grand indeed; and we
+almost regretted that we were not so fortunate as to be in danger of being
+burnt alive--the sight would be worth the risk. There is a penalty
+attached to the firing of the woods or prairies, as the plantations are
+now becoming too numerously scattered over the country, and property is
+likely to be injured by these conflagrations.
+
+Towards the latter end of October, the season peculiar to this country,
+denominated the "Indian summer," commences, and lasts for some weeks. At
+this period, the atmosphere is suffused with a vapour which at a distance
+has the appearance of smoke, arising as it were from fires in the forest.
+The air is always calm and mild on those days, and the sun's disk assumes
+a broad, reddish appearance.
+
+Vandalia is the capital of Illinois, and is seated on the Kaskaskia river,
+which is only navigable to this point during the "freshets" in autumn and
+spring. The positions of the capitals are chosen for their centrality
+alone, and not with reference to any local advantages they may possess.
+
+Illinois is a free state, and its constitution is but a counterpart of
+those of Ohio and Indiana. The extent is 380 miles from north to south,
+and about 140 miles from east to west: area, 52,000 square miles, or
+33,280,000 acres. The population in 1810, was 12,282; in 1820, 55,211:
+white males, 29,401; white females, 24,387; slaves, 917; militia in 1821,
+2,031. The present population is, according to the last census, 157,575.
+The increase within the last ten years has been nearly 186 per cent.
+
+This state is better circumstanced than any other in the west. It is
+bounded on the north by the north-west territory; on the south by the
+Ohio; on the east by the Wabash and Lake Michigan; and on the west by the
+Mississippi. The Illinois river is navigable at almost all seasons to very
+nearly its head waters; and by means of a very short portage a
+communication is established between it and Lake Michigan. A canal is
+contemplated between this lake and the Wabash.
+
+The heath-hen (_tetrao cupido_), or as it is here called, the
+'Prairie-hen,' abounds on the prairies, particularly in the neighbourhood
+of barrens. This species of grouse, I believe, is not to be met with in
+Europe; nor has it been accurately described by any ornithologist before
+Wilson. One habit of the male of this bird is remarkable: at the season of
+incubation, the cocks assemble every morning just before day-break,
+outside the wood, and there exercise themselves tilting until the sun
+appears, when they disperse. Hunters have not failed to note the
+circumstance, and take advantage of it.
+
+We were frequently amused with the movements of the "Turkey buzzard"
+(_vultur aura_). This bird is well known in the southern and western
+states; and in the former is considered of so much utility that a penalty
+is inflicted on any person who may wantonly destroy it. It is perfectly
+harmless, never attacking even the smallest living animal, and seems
+always to prefer carrion when in a state of putrefaction. Except when
+rising from the ground, the buzzard never flaps its wings, but literally
+floats through the atmosphere, forming graceful ogees.
+
+During our journeys across Illinois, we passed several large bodies of
+settlers on their way to Sangamon and Morgan counties in that state. These
+counties are situated on the Illinois river, and are said to be fertile
+tracts. The mass of those persons were Georgians, Virginians, and
+Kentuckians, whose comparative poverty rendered their residence in slave
+states unpleasant.
+
+Perhaps there is nothing more remarkable in the character of the Americans
+than the indifference with which they leave their old habitations,
+friends, and relations. Each individual is taught to depend mainly on his
+own exertions, and therefore seldom expects or requires extraordinary
+assistance from any man. Attachments seldom exist here beyond that of
+ordinary acquaintances--these are easily found wherever one may go,
+arising from a variety of circumstances connected with their institutions
+and their necessities; and thus one of the great objections that present
+themselves to change with Europeans scarcely exists here. Observe, I apply
+this remark more particularly to the western and southern states; for the
+eastern states being longer settled and more thickly populated, these
+feelings, although they exist, yet they do so in a more modified degree.
+
+The appearance presented by the forests at this season is very
+beautiful--the trees are covered with leaves of almost every colour, from
+bright crimson to nearly snow-white; the admixture of green, brown,
+yellow, scarlet, &c., such as is almost peculiar to an American forest,
+produces a very pleasing combination.
+
+We again reached Albion, and retraced our steps from thence to Harmony,
+where we deposited our friend B----; and after having remained there for a
+few days to refresh ourselves and horse, set forward for Ohio. The weather
+had now become unfavourable, and the frequent rains and high winds were
+shaking the leaves down in myriads--the entire of our journey through
+Indiana being across forests, we were under one constant shower of leaves
+from Harmony to Cincinnati.
+
+One day while getting our horse fed at a tavern in Indiana, the following
+conversation took place between the persons there assembled. We were
+sitting at the door, surrounded by captains, lawyers, and squires, when
+one of the gentlemen demanded of another if there had not been a "gouging
+scrape" at the "Colonel's tavern" the evening before. He replied in the
+affirmative; and after having related the cause of quarrel, and said that
+the lie had been given, he continued, "the judge knocked the major right
+over, and jumped on to him in double quick time--they had it rough and
+tumble for about ten minutes--Lord J---s Alm----y!--as pretty a scrape as
+ever you _see'd_--the judge is a wonderfully lovely fellow." Then followed
+a description of the divers punishments inflicted by the combatants on
+each other--the major had his eye nearly "gouged" out, and the judge his
+chin almost bitten off. During the recital, the whole party was convulsed
+with laughter--in which we joined most heartily.
+
+We of course returned by a different route through Indiana, passing from
+Princeton to Portersville, and from thence through Paoli, Salem, and New
+Lexington, to Madison. The country about Madison is hilly and broken,
+which makes travelling tedious in the extreme. From the mouth of the Big
+Miami to Blue river, a range of hills runs parallel to the Ohio,
+alternately approaching to within a few perches of the river, and receding
+to a distance of one to two miles. Below Blue river the hills disappear,
+and the land becomes level and heavily timbered. There is also another
+range of hills, extending from the Falls of Ohio to the Wabash in a
+south-westerly direction, which are called the "knobs:" to the west of
+these are the "flats;" and from the Wabash to lake Michigan the country is
+champaign.
+
+Indianopolis is the capital of Indiana, and is seated on the White river.
+This state averages about 270 miles from north to south, and 144 miles
+from east to west: area, 37,000 square miles, or 23,680,000 acres. The
+population in 1810, was 24,520--in 1820, 147,178: white males, 79,919;
+white females, 69,107; slaves, 190; militia in 1821, 14,990. The present
+population is 341,582.
+
+Vast quantities of hogs are bred in the state of Indiana, and are suffered
+to rove at large in the forests in search of mast. They are in general
+perfectly wild, and when encountered suddenly bristle up like an enraged
+porcupine. Their legs are long; bodies thin; and tail lengthy and
+straight. I was informed that if one of those animals be wounded, its
+screams will draw an immense concourse of its brethren around it, and that
+the situation of a person under these circumstances, is by no means void
+of danger; as they will not fail to attack him _en masse_. We were once
+very nigh getting into a scrape of this description. Driving along through
+the forest, we had to pass a tract covered with a thick growth of
+brushwood--my friend seeing something stirring among the bushes, drew up,
+and taking it for a deer, called out to me to fire--I stood up in the
+vehicle, and levelled where I saw the movement, when, lo! out starts a
+bristling hog, with a grunt just in time to escape with a whole skin.
+
+One night having been accidently separated from my fellow-traveller, I had
+to stay in a miserable-looking hut close to a creek, the habitation of a
+backwoodsman. This person's appearance was extremely unprepossessing. The
+air of ferocity and wildness which characterized his countenance, added to
+his unhealthy, cadaverous aspect, would have been sufficient in any other
+country to make one feel unpleasant at passing the night alone under his
+roof. He resided in this unhealthy situation, because the land was
+extremely fertile; but stated that every fall some one of his family was
+ill, and none of them enjoyed good health. Now when we summed up the
+consequent loss of labour incident to ill health, the balance of profit
+seemed to be greatly against bottom land, and much in favour of the
+healthful prairies.
+
+The farmers use, almost exclusively, the sugar of the maple (_acer
+saccharinum_) which they manufacture themselves. The space in which a
+number of these trees are found, they call a "sugar camp." The process of
+manufacturing is as follows:--After the first frost, the trees are tapped,
+by perforating the trunk in an ascending direction. A spout of alder is
+inserted in the perforation, and the sap drips through this conduit into a
+trough of wood. The sap is then boiled with a spoonful of slacked lime,
+the white of an egg or two, and about a pint of milk, to every fifteen
+gallons. An ordinary tree commonly gives four pounds of good coarse brown
+sugar, which when refined can be made equal to superior lump sugar.
+
+A great portion of the roads through which we passed were mere horse
+paths, full of stumps, with shrubs entangled across them so thickly, that
+we were often obliged to dismount in order to cut away part of the
+impediment. Large trees which have fallen across the road, frequently
+intercept your passage, and you have no alternative but to lift the wheels
+of the vehicle over them.
+
+As we approached Cincinnati the difficulty of travelling became greatly
+augmented. The rains had cut up the roads into ravines, sometimes full
+three feet in depth, which, added to the clayey nature of the soil,
+completely exhausted the horse, and rendered him incapable of proceeding
+faster than a slow walk, even with the empty carriage.
+
+There are a number of Baptists residing at Cincinnati, who frequently
+entertain the inhabitants with public baptisms in the Ohio river. At one
+of those ceremonies, about this time, rather a ludicrous occurrence took
+place. The baptizing preacher stands up to his middle in the water, and
+the person to be baptized is led to him by another preacher. On this
+occasion the officiating clergyman was rather a slight man, and the lady
+to be baptized was extremely large and corpulent--he took her by the
+hands to perform the immersion, but notwithstanding his most strenuous
+exertions, he was thrown off his centre. She finding him yield, held
+still harder, until they both sowsed completely under the water, where
+they lay floundering and struggling for some time, amidst the shouts and
+laughter of the multitude assembled on shore. At length their brethren
+extricated them from this perilous situation.
+
+FOOTNOTES:
+
+[8] M. Duponceau adduces the following examples: "In the Arancanian
+language the word '_idnancloclavin_' means 'I do not wish to eat with
+him.' There is a similar verb in the Delaware tongue--'_n'schingiwipona_,'
+which means 'I do not like to eat with him.' To which may be added another
+example in the latter tongue--'_machtitschwanne_,'--this must be
+translated 'a cluster of islands with channels every way, so that it is
+in no place shut up, or impassable for craft.' This term is applied to the
+islands in the bay of New York."
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER VII.
+
+
+The weather having become cold and disagreeable towards the latter end of
+December, I set out for New Orleans. The larger class of steam-boats lay
+then at Shippingsport, immediately below the falls of Ohio, the river not
+being sufficiently high to enable them to pass over those rapids. Boats
+drawing from nineteen to twenty-six inches water can almost at all seasons
+ply on the Upper Ohio, and during the periods that the large boats are
+detained below the Falls, they are constantly employed in transporting
+produce, intended for the markets on the Mississippi, to Louisville, from
+whence it is drayed round to Shippingsport and re-shipped. Flat-boats are
+also employed for this purpose, and they are preferred, as they pass over
+the Falls, and thus land-carriage is avoided.
+
+Louisville is the chief town of Jefferson county, in Kentucky, and at
+present it is estimated to contain about 12,000 inhabitants, including
+slaves and free people of colour. The store-keepers here are more wealthy
+than those of Cincinnati, and their manners less disagreeable. The
+inhabitants of the latter town being mostly from the New England states,
+have in their dealings and manners that dry shrewdness which is the true
+Yankee characteristic. There are also located in Cincinnati some Irish
+pedlars, who have by all manner of means acquired wealth, and are now the
+"biggest bugs"[9] in the place.
+
+The public buildings of Louisville are few, and the streets are laid out
+in the usual style, crossing each other at right angles. It contains a
+few good brick dwelling-houses, and a number of excellent hack-carriages
+are stationed near the steam-boat landing. A canal round the Falls, from
+Beargrass-creek to Shippingsport, is being constructed, which will enable
+steam-boats of the largest tonnage to pass through; and thus it will open
+an uninterrupted intercourse between the Upper and Lower Ohio, and the
+Mississippi. The length of this canal is about two and a half miles, and
+the original estimate was 200,000 dollars, but this sum has been found
+insufficient.
+
+At Louisville I took a berth on board a boat for New Orleans. The
+steam-boats on the Mississippi are large, and splendidly appointed; the
+interior has more the appearance of a well fitted up dining-room than the
+cabin of a boat. The charge is twenty-five dollars, for which you are
+found in every thing except liquors. Meats, fowls, vegetables, fruits,
+preserves, &c., are served in abundance, and of the very best quality.
+Here you may see tradesmen, "nigger traders," farmers, "congress men,"
+captains, generals, and judges, all seated at the same table, in true
+republican simplicity. There is no appearance of awkwardness in the
+behaviour of the humblest person you see seated at those tables; and
+indeed their general good conduct is remarkable--I mean when contrasted
+with that of the same class in England. The truth is, the tradesman here
+finds himself of some importance in the scale of society, and endeavours
+to show that he is fully qualified to be seated at the same table, _en
+passant_, with the most wealthy citizen. No doubt the higher classes have
+some of that high polish rubbed off by these occasional contacts with
+their less-civilized fellow citizens; but the humbler classes decidedly
+gain what _they_ lose. All dress well, and are _American_ gentlemen.
+
+The Ohio is formed by the junction of the Alleghany and Monongahela rivers
+at Pittsburg, that town being seated in the fork--its breadth there, is
+between eight and nine hundred yards. From the mouths of those two rivers
+it narrows and deepens for some distance; but afterwards, from the
+accession of the many tributary streams by which it is supplied, gradually
+becomes wider and deeper, until it empties itself into the Mississippi.
+The length of the Ohio, following its meanders, is about 950 miles, and it
+may be said to be navigable almost the entire year, as the water must be
+unusually low when the smaller steam-boats cannot ply to Pittsburg. The
+character of this river is somewhat peculiar. But for the improvements on
+the banks, when you have seen six or eight miles of this stream, you are
+acquainted with the remainder as far as the Falls--that is to say, any
+variety that may be in the scenery will occur in any given six miles from
+Pittsburg to that point. Below Louisville there are one or two rocky
+bluffs, and the face of the country is somewhat different. The channel of
+the Upper Ohio lies between hills, which frequently approach the
+_mamélle_ form, and are covered with a heavy growth of timber. Where the
+hills or bluffs do not rise immediately from the river, but recede some
+distance, the space between the river and the hill is called bottom land,
+from the circumstance of its being overflown annually; or having at some
+former period formed part of the river's bed, which is indicated by the
+nature of the soil. The bluffs and bottoms invariably alternate; and when
+you have bluffs on one side, you are sure to have bottom on the other. The
+windings are extremely uniform, with few exceptions, curving in a
+serpentine form in so regular a manner, that the Indians always calculated
+the distance by the number of bends.
+
+"The Falls" are improperly so termed, as this obstruction is nothing more
+than a gradual descent for a distance of about a mile and a half, where
+the water, forcing its way over a rugged rocky bottom, presents the
+appearance of a rapid. Below this the country is of various
+aspects--hills, bottom-land, and high rocky bluffs; and towards the mouth,
+cotton-wood trees, (_populus angulata_), and cane brakes, are interspersed
+along the banks. The junction of these two noble rivers, the Ohio and
+Mississippi, is really a splendid sight--the scenery is picturesque, and
+the water at the point of union is fully two miles broad.
+
+The Mississippi[10] is in length, from its head waters to the _balize_ in
+the gulf of Mexico, about two thousand three hundred miles, and flows
+through an immense variety of country. The section through which it
+passes, before its junction with the Missouri, is represented as being
+elegantly diversified with woodlands, prairies, and rich bottoms, and the
+banks are lined with a luxuriant growth of plants and flowers. Before
+reaching the Missouri, the water of the Mississippi is perfectly limpid;
+but, from the mouth of that river it becomes turgid and muddy--flows
+through a flat, inundated country, and seems more like an immense flood,
+than an old and deep-channelled river. As far as great things can be
+compared to small, it much resembles, within its banks, the Rhone when
+flooded, as it sweeps through the department of Vaucluse, after its
+junction with the Saone.
+
+From St. Louis to New Orleans, a distance of twelve hundred miles, there
+are but six elevated points--the four Chickesaw bluffs, the Iron banks,
+and the Walnut hills. Numerous islands are interspersed through this
+river; and from the mouth of the Ohio, tall cotton-wood trees and
+cane-brakes grow in immense quantities along the banks; the latter, being
+evergreens, have a pleasing effect in the winter season. The windings of
+the Mississippi are, like those of the Ohio, constant, but not so
+serpentine, and some of them are of immense magnitude. You traverse every
+point of the compass in your passage up or down: for example, there is a
+bend near _Bayou Placquamine_, the length of which by the water is upwards
+of sixty miles, and from one point to the other across the distance is but
+three.
+
+The town of "Baton Rouge" is situated about 190 miles above New Orleans,
+and contains a small garrison;--the esplanade runs down to the
+water's-edge, and the whole has a pretty effect. Here the sugar
+plantations commence, and the face of the country is again changed--you
+find yourself in the regions of the south. For a distance of from
+half-a-mile to two miles back, at each side, the land is planted with
+sugar-canes, and highly cultivated. The planters' houses are tastefully
+built, surrounded by gardens full of orange-trees, flowers, and
+evergreens, presenting the idea of perpetual spring, which here is indeed
+the case. The winters are seldom more severe than a mild spring in
+England. I first came in on this region at night, at the season of
+planting, when the cast or used canes are burned in heaps on each
+plantation. The dark turgid waters--the distant fires, surrounded by
+clouds of white smoke ascending in winding columns to the skies--the
+stillness of the night, interrupted only by the occasional cry of the
+pelican or the crane, and the monotonous thumping of the steam-boat
+paddles, formed a strange combination; and had the days of witches and
+warlocks not long since passed away, one would have sworn that these
+gentry were performing incantations over the mystic cauldrons, casting
+"seven bullets," or "raising spirits from the vasty deep."
+
+The Mississippi is in few places more than from half-a-mile to a mile
+wide; and were one to judge of its magnitude by its breadth alone, a very
+erroneous estimate would be formed. It is only by contemplating the many
+vast rivers which empty themselves into the Mississippi that you can form
+a correct idea of the immense volume of water that flows through this
+channel into the Gulf of Mexico. Many of its larger tributary streams
+have the appearance of being as great as itself--the depth alone
+indicating the superiority of this mighty river over every other in
+America; and, considering its length, perhaps over any other in the world.
+
+The great valley of the Mississippi extends, in length, from the Gulf of
+Mexico to a distance of nearly 3000 miles; and is in breadth, from the
+base of the Alleghanies to the foot of the Rocky mountains, about 2,500
+miles. The soil is composed of alluvial deposits, to a depth of from
+twenty to fifty feet; and I have myself seen, near New Orleans, trees
+lying in the horizontal position six or seven feet below the surface. This
+valley has been frequently visited by earthquakes, which have sometimes
+changed part of the channel of the river, and at others formed lakes.
+Those which occurred between the years 1811 and 1813, did serious injury,
+particularly in the neighbourhood of New Madrid, near the west bank,
+below the mouth of the Ohio. At several points the bank is sunk eight or
+ten feet below the surface of the adjacent ground, with the trees
+remaining upright as before.
+
+New Orleans is seated on the south-east bank of the Mississippi; and,
+following the sinuosities of the current, about 109 miles from the Gulf of
+Mexico. The river takes here a right-angular sweep, and the city proper is
+built on the exterior point of the bend, the _fauxbourgs_ extending at
+each side along the banks. At high water the river rises three feet above
+any part of the city; consequently, were it not for levées that have been
+constructed here, and also along the banks of the river for more than a
+hundred miles, at both sides, above and below, the whole country would be
+periodically inundated. The fall from the levée to Bayou St. John, which
+communicates with _Lac Pontchartrain_, is about thirty feet, and the
+distance one mile. This fall is certainly inconsiderable; but I apprehend
+that it would be sufficient to drain the streets effectually, if proper
+attention were directed to that object.
+
+The city extends only half-a-mile back, and, including the _fauxbourgs_,
+about two miles along the river. The streets, being only partially paved,
+can never be perfectly cleaned, and stagnant water remains in the kennels
+at all seasons; this and the exhalations from the swamps in warm weather,
+produce that pestilential scourge with which the place is annually
+afflicted. The mortality here last season (the autumn of 1829) has been
+variously stated in the public prints at from five to seven thousand, who
+died of the yellow fever in the space of about ten weeks. This statement,
+however, is erroneous; as, from information which I received from the
+sexton of the American grave-yard, and from the number of fresh graves
+which I saw there, I am inclined to think that the total amount falls
+short of 2500, out of a resident population of less than 40,000 souls.
+About 700 were buried in the American grave-yard, and perhaps double that
+number in that of the French.
+
+The port of New Orleans presents the most extraordinary medley of any port
+in the world. Craft of every possible variety may be seen moored along the
+levées, and the markets and adjacent streets crowded with people of almost
+every nation in Europe, Africa, and America, who create a frightful
+confusion of tongues. A particular part of the quay is appropriated to
+each description of craft, and a penalty is enforced for any deviation
+from port regulations. The upper part is occupied with flat-boats, arks,
+peeroges, rafts, keel-boats, canoes, and steam-boats; and below these are
+stationed schooners, cutters, brigs, ships, &c., in regular succession.
+The levée is almost constantly filled with merchandize; and the scene of
+bustle and confusion which is exhibited here during the early part of the
+day, fully proves the large amount of commercial intercourse which this
+city enjoys.
+
+When Louisiana was ceded to the United States, in 1803, Orleans was then
+entirely occupied by Creole-French and Spanish, consequently the majority
+of the habitations and public buildings, are in the French and Spanish
+style. The cathedral, which presents a handsome façade of about seventy
+feet, the town-hall, and courts, occupy one side of the _place
+d'armes,_--these, with the American theatre, the _théâtre d'Orleans,_ or
+French opera house, the hospital, and three or four churches, are the only
+public buildings in the city. The houses are all flat-roofed, and those in
+the back streets and fauxbourgs are seldom more than one story high; the
+practice of building houses in this manner was pursued in order to avoid
+injury from tornadoes, which occasionally visit the valley of the
+Mississippi; latterly they have not been of frequent occurrence, although
+when they do arise, they are extremely violent. The town of Urbana, in
+Ohio, this year (1830) has been nearly destroyed by a visitation of this
+nature.
+
+Pharo-banks, roulette-tables, and gambling of all kinds, are publicly
+permitted; but the proprietor of each establishment pays a tax of 5000
+dollars per annum. The _théâtre d'Orleans_ on Sunday evenings, is
+generally crowded with beautiful French women. Every night during the
+winter season there is a _bal paré et masqué_, and occasionally "quadroon
+balls," which are attended by the young men of the city and their _chères
+amies_ quadroons, who are decidedly the finest women in the country, being
+well formed, and graceful in their carriage. The Louisianians are
+prohibited by law from marrying with quadroons, although this _caste_ is
+free, and many of them have been educated in France, and are highly
+accomplished.
+
+In the south, slavery exists in its most unqualified condition, wanting
+those milder modifications which serve to dress and decorate the person of
+this ugly fiend. Here may be seen hundreds of animals of our own genus
+exposed in the public bazaars for sale, and examined with as much care,
+and precisely in the same manner, as we examine horses. In some of the
+slave states the law prohibits the separation of families, but this
+prohibition is little attended to, as the slave has no possibility of
+coming in contact with any dispensers of justice but the magistrates of
+the state, who, being slave-holders themselves, instead of redressing his
+grievances, would be more likely to order him a lashing, for presuming to
+complain. Many melancholy instances occur here, which clearly illustrate
+the evils of slavery and its demoralizing influence on the human
+character. The arguments against slavery are deduced from self-evident
+propositions, and must carry conviction to every well organized mind; yet
+from their application being of too general a character, they seldom
+interest the feelings, and in the end leave less impression than the
+simple statement of a particular occurrence. During my stay, a Doctor
+---- came down the river with thirty slaves, among which were an old negro
+and negress, each between sixty and seventy years of age; this unfortunate
+old woman had borne twenty-one children, all of whom had been at different
+times sold in the Orleans market, and carried into other states, and into
+distant parts of Louisiana. The Doctor said, in order to induce her to
+leave home quietly, that he was bringing her into Louisiana for the
+purpose of placing her with some of her children--"and now," says the old
+negress, "aldo I suckle my massa at dis breast, yet now he sell me to
+sugar planter, after he sell all my children away from me." This gentleman
+was a strict Methodist, or "saint," and is, I was informed, much esteemed
+by the preachers of that persuasion, because of his liberal contributions
+to their support.
+
+Negresses, when young and likely, are often employed as wet nurses by
+white people, as also by either the planter or his friends, to administer
+to their sensual desires--this frequently as a matter of speculation, for
+if the offspring, a mulatto, be a handsome female, from 800 to 1000
+dollars may be obtained for her in the Orleans market.[11] It is an
+occurrence of no uncommon nature to see the Christian father sell his own
+daughter, and the brother his own sister, by the same father. Slaves do
+not marry, but pair at discretion; and the more children they produce, the
+better for their masters.
+
+On the Levée at New Orleans, are constantly exhibited specimens of the
+white man's humanity, in the persons of runaway slaves. When such an
+unfortunate negro is retaken, a log is chained to one of his legs, and
+round his neck is placed an iron collar, from which project three sharp
+prongs more than a foot in length each.
+
+The evils of this infernal system are beginning to re-act upon the
+Christians, who are latterly kept in a constant state of alarm, fearing
+the number and disposition of the blacks, which threaten at no far distant
+period to overwhelm the south with some dreadful calamity.[12] Three
+incendiary fires took place at Orleans, during the month I remained in
+that city, by which several thousand bales of cotton were consumed. The
+condition of the slaves on the sugar or rice plantations, is truly
+wretched. They are ill-fed, ill-clad, and worked in gangs under the
+superintendence of a driver, who is armed with a long whip, which he uses
+at discretion; and it is a fact, well known to persons who have visited
+slave countries, that punishments are more frequently inflicted to gratify
+the private pique or caprice of the driver, than for crime or neglect of
+duty.
+
+In the agricultural states, slave labour is found to be altogether
+unproductive, which causes this market to be inundated:--within the last
+two months, 5000 negros have been sold here. The state legislature has
+just passed a law, regulating the introduction of slaves, and commanding
+all free people of colour, who were not residents previous to 1825, to
+quit Louisiana in the space of six months. Georgia has enacted a law to
+the same effect, with the addition of making penal, _the teaching of
+people of colour to read or write_. The liberty of the press is by no
+means tolerated in the slave states, as both judges and juries will always
+decide according to the local laws, although totally at variance with the
+constitution. W.L. Garrison, of Baltimore, one of the editors of a
+publication entitled, "The Genius of Universal Emancipation," is now
+suffering fine and imprisonment for an alleged libel, at the suit of a
+slavite; and a law has been passed by the legislature of Louisiana,
+suppressing the Orleans journal called "The Liberal." This latter act is
+not only contrary to the constitution of the United States, but also in
+direct opposition to the constitution of Louisiana.[13]
+
+The free states in their own defence have been obliged to prohibit people
+of colour settling within their boundaries. Where then can the unfortunate
+African find a retreat? He must not stay in this country, and he cannot
+go to Africa; and although the British government are encouraging the
+settlement of negros in the Canadas, yet latterly, neither the Canadians
+nor the Americans like that project. The most probable finale to this
+drama will be, that the Christians must at their own expense ship them to
+Liberia (for Hayti is inundated), and there throw them on barren shores to
+die of starvation, or to be massacred by the savages!
+
+Miss Wright lately passed through New Orleans with thirty negros which she
+had manumitted, and was then going to establish them at Hayti. These
+slaves had been purchased at reduced prices, from persons friendly to
+their emancipation, and were kept by Miss Wright until their labour,
+allowing them a fair remuneration, amounted to the prime outlay.
+
+Were it not for the danger that might be apprehended from the congregation
+of large bodies of negros in particular states or districts, their
+liberation would be attended with little inconvenience _to the public_,
+for their labour might be as effectually secured, and made quite as
+profitable, under a system of well-regulated emancipation. We need only
+refer to England for a case in point:--after the conquest and total
+subjugation of the people of that country by the ancestors of the
+nobility, the gallant Normans, the feudal system was introduced, and
+remained in full vigour for some centuries. But, as the country became
+more populous, and the attendance of the knights and barons in parliament
+became more frequent and necessary, we find villanage gradually fall into
+disrepute. The last laws regulating this species of slavery were passed in
+the reign of Henry VII; and towards the end of Elizabeth's reign, although
+the statutes remained unrepealed, as they do still, yet there were no
+persons in the state to whom the laws applied. It cannot be denied that
+the labour of the poor English is as effectually secured under the present
+arrangements, as it could possibly be under the system of villanage.
+
+I look upon slaves as public securities; and I am of opinion, that a
+legislature's enacting laws for their emancipation, is as flagrant a piece
+of injustice as would be the cancelling of the public debt. Slave-holders
+are only share-holders; and philanthropists should never talk of
+liberating slaves, more than cancelling public securities, without being
+prepared to indemnify those persons who unfortunately have their capital
+invested in this species of property.
+
+As many varieties of countenance are to be found among blacks as among
+whites. There are Africans in this city who have really handsome features,
+and whose proportions are just, with strong and finely rounded limbs. On
+becoming more intimate with the general character of the Africans, I like
+it better: I find they steal, cheat, and hate their masters; and if they
+were to do otherwise I should think them unworthy of liberty--they justly
+consider whatever they take to be but a portion of their own. The policy
+is to keep them as much as possible in utter ignorance--that their
+indignation should therefore develope itself in the most degrading manner,
+is not surprising.
+
+There are two public schools established at New Orleans, which are
+supported out of the fund arising from five gaming-houses, they paying a
+tax of 25,000 dollars per annum. These schools are conducted on the
+Lancastrian system, each having a Principal and a Professor, and the
+studies are divided into daily sessions. The morning session is devoted to
+reading, spelling, arithmetic, and English grammar; commences at nine
+A.M., and closes at one P.M. The evening session commences at three, and
+ends at five o'clock; and is devoted to penmanship, geography, and the
+French language. This is the arrangement of the English primary school,
+which is kept in the Old Poydras House, Poydras-street, in the upper part
+of the city; and is called the Upper Primary School, to distinguish it
+from the French establishment, which is kept in the lower part of the
+city. The English school has an English principal, and a French professor;
+and the French school, a French principal and an English professor. Dr.
+Kinnicutt, the principal of the Upper Primary School, is a gentleman of
+considerable ability, and to his friendly politeness I am indebted for the
+above information.
+
+The ravages of the yellow fever in New Orleans are immense; but I am
+credibly informed that many deaths occur here from neglect after the fever
+has subsided, when the patient is in a totally debilitated condition,
+incapable of affording himself the slightest assistance. Orleans is
+generally crowded with strangers, who are most susceptible to the
+epidemic; and it is decidedly the interest of persons keeping hotels and
+boarding-houses that such guests should give up the ghost, for in that
+case their loose cash falls into the hands of the proprietor. I do not
+mean to insinuate that a knife is passed across the throat of the
+patient; but merely that it is the opinion of physicians, and some of the
+most respectable people of the city, that every _facility_ is afforded
+strangers to die, and that in many cases they actually die of gross
+neglect.
+
+The wealthy merchants live well, keep handsome establishments, and good
+wines. The Sardanapalian motto, "Laugh, sing, dance, and be merry," seems
+to be universally adopted in this "City of the Plague." The planters' and
+merchants' villas immediately in the vicinity are extremely tasteful, and
+are surrounded by large parterres filled with plantain, banana, palm,
+orange, and rose trees. On the whole, were it not for its unhealthiness,
+Orleans would be a most desirable residence, and the largest city in the
+United States, as it is most decidedly the best circumstanced in a
+commercial point of view.
+
+The question of the purchase of Texas from the Mexican government has been
+widely mooted throughout the country, and in the slave districts it has
+many violent partizans. The acquisition of this immense tract of fertile
+country would give an undue preponderance to the slave states, and this
+circumstance alone has prevented its purchase from being universally
+approved of; for the grasping policy of the American system seems to
+animate both congress and legislatures in all their acts. The Americans
+commenced their operations in true Yankee style. The first settlement made
+was by a person named Austin, under a large grant from the Mexican
+government. Then "pioneers," under the denomination of "explorers," began
+gradually to take possession of the country, and carry on commercial
+negotiations without the assent of the government. This was followed by
+the public prints taking up the question, and setting forth the immense
+value of the country, and the consequent advantages that would arise to
+the United States from its acquisition. The settlers excited movements,
+and caused discontent and dissatisfaction among the legitimate owners; and
+at their instigation, insurrections of the Indians took place, which
+greatly embarrassed the government. At this stage of the affair, Mr.
+Poinsett, the American minister, commenced his diplomatic manoeuvres in
+the city of Mexico--fomenting disaffection, encouraging parties, and
+otherwise interfering in the internal concerns of the country. He appears,
+however, to have carried his intrigues beyond the bounds of discretion, as
+they were discovered; and he consequently became so obnoxious to the
+government and people of Mexico, that Jackson found it necessary to recall
+him, and send a Colonel Butler in his stead, commissioned to offer
+5,000,000 dollars for the province of Texas.
+
+Mr. Poinsett's object in acting as he did, was that he might embarrass the
+government, and take advantage of some favourable crisis to drive a
+profitable bargain; or that, during some convulsion that would be likely
+to lead to a change, the expiring executive would be glad to grasp at his
+offer, and thereby a claim would be established on the country, which the
+United States would not readily relinquish. The policy of the British
+government suffering the Mexican republic to be bullied out of this
+province would be very questionable indeed, as the North Americans command
+at present quite enough of the Gulf of Mexico, and their overweening
+inclination to acquire extent of territory would render their proximity to
+the West Indian Islands rather dangerous; however, it would be much more
+advantageous to have the Mexicans as neighbours than the people of the
+United States.
+
+The Mexican secretary of state, Don Lucas Alaman, in a very able and
+elaborate report made to Congress, sets forth the ambitious designs of the
+American government, and the proceedings of its agents with regard to this
+province. He also recommends salutary measures for the purpose of
+retaining possession and preventing further encroachments; which the
+Congress seems to have taken into serious consideration, as very important
+resolutions have been adopted. The Congress has decreed, that hereafter
+the Texas is to be governed as a colony; and, except by special commission
+of the Governor, the immigration of persons _from the United States_, is
+strictly forbidden. So much at present for the efforts of the Americans to
+get possession of the Texas; and if the British government be alive to the
+interests of the nation, they never shall;--for, entertaining the hostile
+feelings that they do towards the British empire, their closer connexion
+with the West Indies would certainly not be desirable.
+
+FOOTNOTES:
+
+[9] A "big bug," is a great man, in the phraseology of the western
+country.
+
+[10] In the Indian tongue, _Meschacebe_--"old father of waters."
+
+[11] I have been informed by a gentleman who has resided in the English
+West Indian Islands, that he has known instances there of highly educated
+white women, young and unmarried, making black mothers suckle puppy
+lap-dogs for them.
+
+[12] Previous to my leaving America, a most extensive and well-organised
+conspiracy was discovered at Charleston, and several of the conspirators
+were executed. The whole black population of that town were to have risen
+on a certain day, and put their oppressors to death.
+
+[13]
+
+Extract from "The Liberal" of 19th March, 1830:--
+
+    "Constitution des Etats unis.
+
+    "Art. 1 er. des Amendments.
+
+    "Le Congrés n'aura pas le droit de faire aucune loi pour abreger
+    la liberté de la parole ou de la presse, &c.
+
+    "Constitution de L'Etat de la Louisiane.
+
+    "Art. 6, v. 21.
+
+    "La presse sera libre à tous ceux qui entreprendront d'examiner les
+    procédures de la legislature ou aucune branche du gouvernement; et
+    aucune loi sera jamais faite pour abreger ses droits, &c.
+
+    "Loi faite par la legislature de l'Etat de la Louisiane.
+
+    "Acte pour punir les crime y mentionés et pour d'autre objets.
+
+    "Sect. 1ére. Il et décrété, &c. Que quiconque écrira, imprimera,
+    publiera, ou répandra toute pièce ayant une tendance à produire du
+    mécontentement parmi la population de couleur libre, ou de
+    l'insubordination parmi les esclaves de cet Etat, sera sur
+    conviction du fait, pardevant toute cour de juridiction competante
+    condamné à l'emprisonnement aux travaux forcés pour la vie ou à la
+    peine de mort, à la discretion de la cour!!!!
+
+    "Sec. 2. Il est de plus décrété, que quiconque se servira
+    d'expressions dans un discours public prononcé au barreau, au barre
+    des Judges, au Théâtre, en chaire, ou dans tout lieu quelconque;
+    quiconque se servira d'expressions dans des conversations ou des
+    discours particulars, ou fera usage des signes ou fera des actions
+    ayant une tendance à produire du mecontentement parmi la
+    population de couleur libre ou à exciter à l'insubordination parmi
+    les esclaves de cet Etat; quiconque donnera sciemment la main à
+    apporter dans cet Etat aucun papier, brochure ou livre ayant la
+    même tendance que dessus, sera, sur conviction, pardevant toute
+    cour de juridiction competante, condamné à l'emprisonnement aux
+    travaux forcés pour un terme qui ne sera pas moindre de trois ans
+    et qui n'excédera pas vingt un ans, ou à la peine de mort à la
+    discretion de la cour!!!!
+
+    "Sec. 3. Il est de plus décrété, que seront considerées comme
+    illegales toute réunions de negres; mulatres ou autres personnes
+    de couleur libre dans le temples, les ecoles ou autres lieux pour
+    y apprendre à lire ou à ecrire: et les personnes qui se réuniront
+    ainsi; sur conviction du fait, pardevant toute cour de juridiction
+    competente, seront emprisonneés pour un terme qui ne sera pas
+    moindre d'un mois et qui n'excédera pas douze mois, à la
+    discrétion!!!!
+
+    "Sec. 4. Il est de plus décrété, que toute personne dans cet état
+    qui enseignera, permettra qu'on enseigne ou fera enseigner à lire
+    ou à ecrire à un esclave quelconque, sera, sur conviction du fait,
+    pardevant toute cour de juridiction competante, condamné à un
+    imprisonnement qui ne sera pas moindre d'un mois et n'excédera pas
+    douze mois!!!!"
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+    From the remarks of the same journal of the 23rd March, it would
+    appear that the third and fourth sections of this most enlightened
+    and Christian act have been rejected, as being "_too bad_."
+
+    "Nous avons lu la publication officielle de l'acte intitulé: 'acte
+    pour empêcher l'introduction des personnes de couleur libres dans
+    cet Etat, et pour d'autres objets.' Il est trop long pour que nous
+    puissons le publier, nous en donnons l'extrait suivant.
+
+    "1. Toute personne de couleur libre, qui sera rentreé dans cet
+    état depuis 1825, sera forcée d'en sortir.
+
+    "2. Aucune personne, de couleur libre, ne pourra à l'avenir
+    s'introduire dans cet état sous aucun pretexte quelconque.
+
+    "3. Le blanc qui aura fait circuler des écrits tendant à troubler
+    le repos public, ou censurant les actes de la legislature
+    concernant les esclaves ou les personnes de couleur libres, sera
+    puni rigoureusement.
+
+    "4. L'émancipation des esclaves est soumise à quantité de
+    formalités.
+
+    "Tous les noirs, grieffes et mulatres, au premier degré, libres,
+    sont obligés de se faire enregistrer au bureau du maire, à Nelle.
+    Orleans, ou chez les judges de paroisse dans les autres parties de
+    l'état.
+
+    "Nous voyons avec joie, que la partie du bill tendant à empêcher
+    l'instruction des personnes de couleur, a été rejeté."
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER VIII.
+
+
+Having spent a month in Orleans and the neighbouring plantations, I took
+my leave and departed for Louisville. The steam-boat in which I ascended
+the river was of the largest description, and had then on board between
+fifty and sixty cabin passengers, and nearly four hundred deck passengers.
+The former paid thirty dollars, and the latter I believe six, on this
+occasion. The deckers were provided only with an unfurnished berth. The
+steam-boats, on their passage up and down the rivers, stop at nearly all
+the towns of importance, both for the purpose of landing and receiving
+freight, which enabled me to visit most of the settlements along the
+banks.
+
+For several hundred miles from New Orleans, the trees, particularly those
+in the cypress swamps, are covered with tellandsea, or Spanish moss, which
+hangs down from the branches so thickly, as to give a most gloomy aspect
+to the forest. It is found to be a good substitute for horse hair, and is
+universally used by upholsterers for stuffing mattresses, cushions, &c.
+The process of preparing it is very simple: being taken from the trees, it
+is placed in water for a few days, until the outer pellicle has rotted; it
+is then dried, when a long fibre resembling horse hair is obtained.
+
+Natchez, in the state of Mississippi, is about 300 miles above Orleans,
+and is the largest and wealthiest town on the river, from that city up to
+St. Louis. It stands on bluffs, perhaps 300 feet above the water at
+ordinary periods. It contains nearly 4000 inhabitants, and is decidedly
+the prettiest town for its dimensions in the United States. Natchez,
+although upwards of 400 miles from the sea, is considered a port; and a
+grant of 1500 dollars was made by congress for the purpose of erecting a
+light-house; the building has been raised, and stands there, a monument of
+useless expenditure. There are a number of "groggeries," stores, and other
+habitations, at the base of the bluffs, for the accommodation of
+flat-boatmen, which form a distinct town, and the place is called, in
+contradistinction to the city above, Natchez-under-the-hill. Swarms of
+unfortunate females, of every shade of colour, may be seen here sporting
+with the river navigators, and this little spot presents one continued
+scene of gaming, swearing, and rioting, from morning till night.
+
+The ravages of the yellow fever in this town are always greater in
+proportion to the population than at New Orleans; and it is a remarkable
+fact, that frequently when the fever is raging with violence in the city
+on the hill, the inhabitants below are entirely free from it. In addition
+to the exhalations from the exposed part of the river's bed, there are
+others of a still more pestilential character, which arise from stagnant
+pools at the foot of the hill. The miasmata appear to ascend until they
+reach the level of the town above, where the atmosphere being less dense,
+and perhaps precisely of their own specific gravity, they float, and
+commingle with it.
+
+The country from Baton-rouge to Vicksburg, on the walnut hills, is almost
+entirely devoted to the cultivation of cotton, the soil and climate being
+found particularly congenial to the growth of that plant. The great trade
+of Natchez is in this article. The investment of capital in the
+cultivation of cotton is extremely profitable, and a plantation
+judiciously managed seldom fails of producing an income, in a few years,
+amounting to the original outlay. Each slave is estimated to produce from
+250 to 300 dollars per annum; but of course from this are to be deducted
+the _wear and tear_ of the slave, and the casualties incident to human
+life. On sugar plantations the profit is much more on each individual; but
+the risk is greater, and the deaths are generally calculated at one-third
+of the gang in ten years: this is the cause why slaves _on sugar
+plantations_ are so miserably fed and clad, for their being rendered less
+wretched would not make them less susceptible to the epidemic. Each acre
+of well-cultivated land produces from one and a half to two bales of
+cotton, and even the first year the produce will cover the expenses. A
+planter may commence with 10,000 or 12,000 dollars, and calculate on
+certain success; but with less capital, he must struggle hard to attain
+the desired object. A sugar plantation cannot be properly conducted with
+less than 25,000 or 30,000 dollars, and the first year produces no return.
+The cotton begins to ripen in the month of October--the buds open, and the
+flowers appear. A slave can gather from 100 to 150 lbs. a day. Rice and
+tobacco are also grown in the neighbourhood of the cotton lands, but of
+course the produce is inferior to that of the West Indies.
+
+Occasionally, along the banks of the Mississippi, you see here and there
+the solitary habitation of a wood-cutter. Immense piles of wood are placed
+on the edge of the bank, for the supply of steam-boats, and perhaps a
+small corn patch may be close to the house; this however is not commonly
+the case, as the inhabitants depend on flat-boats for provisions. The
+dwelling is the rudest kind of log-house, and the outside is sometimes
+decorated with the skins of deer, bears, and other animals, hung up to
+dry. Those people are commonly afflicted with fever and ague; and I have
+seen many, particularly females, who had immense swellings or
+protuberances on their stomachs, which they denominate "ague-cakes." The
+Mississippi wood-cutters scrape together "considerable of dollars," but
+they pay dearly for it in health, and are totally cut off from the
+frequent frolics, political discussions, and elections; which last,
+especially, are a great source of amusement to the Americans, and tend to
+keep up that spirit of patriotism and nationality for which they are so
+distinguished. The excitement produced by these elections prevents the
+people falling into that ale-drinking stupidity, which characterizes the
+low English.
+
+The "freshets" in the Mississippi are always accompanied with an immense
+quantity of "drift-wood," which is swept away from the banks of the
+Missouri and Ohio; and the navigation is never totally devoid of danger,
+from the quantity of trees which settle down on the bottom of the river.
+Those trees which stand perpendicularly in the river, are called
+"planters;" those which take hold by the roots, but lie obliquely with the
+current, yielding to its pressure, appearing and disappearing alternately,
+are termed "sawyers;" and those which lie immovably fixed, in the same
+position as the "sawyers," are denominated "snags." Many boats have been
+stove in by "snags" and "sawyers," and sunk with all the passengers. At
+present there is a snag steam-boat stationed on the Mississippi, which has
+almost entirely cleared it of these obstructions. This boat consists of
+two hulks, with solid beams of timber uniting the bows. It has a most
+powerful engine; and when the crew discover a snag, which always lies with
+the stream, and is known by the ripple on the water, they run down below
+it for some distance in order to gather head-way--the boat is then run at
+it full tilt, and seldom fails of breaking off the projecting branch close
+to the trunk.
+
+We arrived, a fine morning about nine o'clock, at Memphis in Tennessee,
+and lay-to to put out freight. We had just sat down, and were regaling
+ourselves with a substantial breakfast, when one of the boilers burst,
+with an explosion that resembled the report of a cannon. The change was
+sudden and terrific. Between fifty and sixty persons were killed and
+wounded. The scene was the most horrifying that can be imagined--the dead
+were shattered to pieces, covering the decks with blood; and the dying
+suffered the most excruciating tortures, being scalded from head to foot.
+Many died within the hour; whilst others lingered until evening, shrieking
+in the most piteous manner. The persons assembled on shore displayed the
+most disgusting want of sympathy; and most of the gentlemen passengers
+took care to secure their luggage before rendering any assistance to the
+unfortunates. A medical gentleman, who happened to be on board (a Doctor
+Otis, I think, from Carolina), was an exception. This gentleman--and
+gentleman he really was, in every respect--attended with the most
+unremitting care on all the wounded without distinction. A collection was
+made by the cabin passengers, for the surviving sufferers. The wretch who
+furnished oil on the occasion, hearing of the collection, had the
+conscience to make a charge of sixty dollars, when the quantity furnished
+could not possibly have amounted to a third of that sum.
+
+The boiler recoiled, cutting away part of the bow, and the explosion blew
+up the pilot's deck, which rendered the vessel totally unfit for service.
+I remained three days at Memphis, and visited the neighbouring farms and
+plantations. Several parties of Chickesaw Indians were here, trading their
+deer and other skins with the townspeople. This tribe has a reservation
+about fifty miles back, and pursues agriculture to a considerable extent.
+After the massacre and extermination of the Natchez Indians, by the
+Christians of Louisiana, the few survivors received an asylum from the
+Chickesaws; who, notwithstanding the heavy vengeance with which they were
+threatened, could never be induced to give up the few unhappy "children of
+the Sun" who confided in their honour and generosity: the fugitives
+amalgamated with their protectors, and the Natchez are extinct.
+
+Some of the Indians here assembled, indulged immoderately in the use of
+ardent spirits, with which they were copiously supplied by the white
+people. During these drinking fits, there is always one at least of the
+party who remains sober, in order to secure the knives, &c. Hence the
+Americans derive the cant phrase of "doing the sober Indian," which they
+apply to any one of a company who will not _drink fairly_. One of the
+Indians had a pony which he wished to sell, having occasion for some
+articles, and his skins not bringing him as much as he had anticipated. A
+townsman demanded the price. The Indian put up both his hands, intimating
+that he would take ten dollars. The pony was worth double the sum; but the
+spirit of barter would not permit the white man to purchase without
+reducing the price: he offered the Indian five dollars. The Indian was
+evidently indignant, but only gave a nod of dissent. After some
+hesitation, the buyer, finding that he could not reduce the price, said
+he would give the ten dollars. The Indian then held up his fingers, and
+counted fifteen. The buyer demurred at the advance; but the Indian was
+inexorable, and at length intimated that he would not trade at all. Such
+is the character of the Aborigines--they never calculate on _your_
+necessities, but only on their own; and when they are in want of money,
+demand the lowest possible price for the article they may wish to
+sell--but if they see you want to take further advantage of them, they
+invariably raise the price or refuse to traffic.
+
+Hunting in Tennessee is commonly practised on horseback, with dogs. When
+the party comes upon a deer-track, it separates, and hunters are posted,
+at intervals of about a furlong, on the path which the deer when started
+is calculated to take. Two or three persons then set forward with the
+dogs, always coming up against the wind, and start the deer, when the
+sentinels at the different points fire at him as he passes, until he is
+brought down. Another mode is to hunt by torch-light, without dogs. In
+this case, slaves carry torches before the party; the light of which so
+amazes the deer, that he stands gazing in the brushwood. The glare of his
+eyes is always sufficient to direct the attention of the rifleman, who
+levels his piece at the space between them, and seldom fails of hitting
+him fairly in the head.
+
+A boat at length arrived from New Orleans, bound for Nashville in
+Tennessee, and I secured a passage to Smithland, at the mouth of the
+Cumberland river, where I had a double opportunity of getting to
+Louisville, as boats from St. Louis, as well as those from Orleans, stop
+at that point. The day following my arrival a boat came up, and I
+proceeded to Louisville. On board, whilst I was amusing myself forward, I
+was accosted by a deck-passenger, whom I recollected to have seen at
+Harmony. He told me, amongst other things, that a Mr. O----, who resided
+there, had been elected captain, and added that he was "a considerable
+clever fellow," and the best captain they ever had. I inquired what
+peculiar qualification in their new officer led him to that conclusion.
+Expecting to hear of his superior knowledge in military tactics, I was
+astounded when he seriously informed me, in answer, that on a late
+occasion (I believe it was the anniversary of the birth of Washington),
+after parade, he ordered them into a "groggery," "not to take a _little_
+of something to drink, but by J---s to drink as much as they had a mind
+to." It must be observed, that this individual I had seen but once, in the
+streets of Harmony, and then he was in a state of inebriation. Another
+anecdote, of a similar character, was related to me by an Englishman
+relative to his own election to the post of brigadier-general. The
+candidate opposed to him had served in the late war, and in his address to
+the electors boasted not a little of the circumstance, and concluded by
+stating that he was "ready to lead them to a cannon's mouth when
+necessary." This my friend the General thought a poser; but, however, he
+determined on trying what virtue there was--not in stones, like the "old
+man" with the "young saucebox,"--but in a much more potent article,
+whisky; so, after having stated that although he had not served, yet he
+was as ready to serve against "the hired assassins of England"--this is
+the term by which the Americans designate our troops--as his opponent, he
+concluded by saying, "Boys, Mr. ---- has told you that he is ready to lead
+you to a cannon's mouth--now _I_ don't wish you any such misfortune as
+getting the contents of a cannon in your bowels, but if necessary,
+perhaps, I'd lead you as far as he would; however, men, the short and the
+long of it is, instead of leading you to the mouth of a cannon, I'll lead
+you this instant to the mouth of a barrel of whisky." This was enough--the
+electors shouted, roared, laughed, and drank--and elected my friend
+Brigadier-general. Brigadier-general! what must this man's relatives in
+England think, when they hear that he is a Brigadier-general in the
+American army? Yet he is a very respectable man (an auctioneer), and much
+superior to many west country Generals. The fact is, a dollar's-worth of
+whisky and a little Irish wit would go as far in electioneering as five
+pounds would go in England; and were it not for the protection afforded by
+the ballot, the Americans would be fully as corrupt, and would exercise
+the franchise as little in accordance with the public interest, as the
+English and Irish who enjoy the freedom of corporate towns. Some aspirants
+to office in the New England states, about the time of the last
+presidential election, tried the system of bribing, and obtained promises
+fully sufficient to insure their returns; but on counting the votes, it
+was found that more than one half the persons who were paid to vote _for_,
+must have voted _against_ the person who had bribed them. It is needless
+to say this experiment was not repeated. The Americans thought it bad
+enough to take the bribe, but justly concluded that it would be a double
+crime to adhere to the agreement. The bravo who takes a purse to commit an
+assassination, and does not do that for which he has been paid; is an
+angel, when compared to the villain who performs his contract.
+
+The usual time occupied in a voyage from Orleans to Louisville is from ten
+to twelve days, and boats have performed it in the surprisingly short
+space of eight days. The spur that commerce has received from the
+introduction of steam-boats on the western waters, can only be appreciated
+by comparing the former means of communication with the present. Previous
+to 1812, the navigation of the Upper Ohio was carried on by means of about
+150 small barges, averaging between thirty and forty tons burden, and the
+time consumed in ascending from the Falls to Pittsburg was a full month.
+On the Lower Ohio and the Mississippi there were about twenty barges,
+which averaged 100 tons burden, and more than three months was occupied in
+ascending from Orleans to Louisville with West India produce, the crew
+being obliged to poll or _cordelle_ the whole distance. Seldom more than
+one voyage to Orleans and back was made within the year. In 1817, a
+steam-boat arrived at Louisville from New Orleans in twenty-five days, and
+a public dinner and other rejoicings celebrated the event. From that
+period until 1827, the time consumed in this voyage gradually diminished,
+and in that year a boat from New Orleans entered the port of Louisville in
+eight days and two hours. There are at present on the waters of the Ohio
+and Mississippi, 323 boats, the aggregate burden of which is 56,000 tons,
+the greater proportion measuring from 250 to 500 tons.
+
+The people of this country cannot properly be compared with the
+inhabitants of England; their institutions are different, and their
+habits and manners must necessarily be dissimilar. Indeed, they are as
+unlike the English as any people can well be, and many of them with whom I
+conversed, denied flatly the descent. They contend that they are a
+compound of the best blood of Europe, and that the language of England
+only prevailed because, _originally_, the majority of settlers were
+English; but that since the revolution, the whole number of emigrants from
+the other countries of Europe greatly exceeded the proportion from England
+and Ireland. Their temperament, organisation, and independent spirit,
+appear to bear them out in this assertion.
+
+In England we have all the grades and conditions of society that are to be
+found in America, with the addition of two others, the highest and the
+lowest classes. There is no extensive class here equivalent to the English
+or Irish labourer; neither is there any class whose manners are stamped
+with that high polish and urbanity which characterises the aristocracy of
+England. The term _gentleman_ is used here in a very different sense from
+that in which it is applied in Europe--it means simply, well-behaved
+citizen. All classes of society claim it--from the purveyor of old bones,
+up to the planter; and I have myself heard a bar-keeper in a tavern and a
+stage driver, whilst quarrelling, seriously accuse each other of being "no
+gentleman." The only class who live on the labour of others, and without
+their own personal exertions, are the planters in the south. There are
+certainly many persons who derive very considerable revenues from houses;
+but they must be very few, if any, who have ample incomes from land, and
+this only in the immediate vicinity of the largest and oldest cities.
+
+English novels have very extensive circulation here, which certainly is of
+no service to the country, as it induces the wives and daughters of
+American gentlemen (alias, shopkeepers) to ape gentility. In Louisville,
+Cincinnati, and all the other towns of the west, the women have
+established circles of society. You will frequently be amused by seeing a
+lady, the wife of a dry-goods store-keeper, look most contemptuously at
+the mention of another's name, whose husband pursues precisely the same
+occupation, but on a less extensive scale, and observe, that "she only
+belongs to the third circle of society." This species of embryo
+aristocracy--or as Socrates would, call it, Plutocracy--is based on wealth
+alone, and is decidedly the most contemptible of any. There are,
+notwithstanding, very many well-bred, if not highly polished, women in the
+country; and on the whole, the manners of the women are much more
+agreeable than those of the men.
+
+Early in the summer I proceeded to Maysville, in Kentucky, which lies
+about 220 miles above the Falls. Here having to visit a gentlemen in the
+interior, I hired a chaise, for which I paid about two shillings British
+per mile.
+
+A great deal of excitement was just then produced among the inhabitants of
+Maysville by the president's having put his veto on the bill, passed by
+congress, granting loans to the "Maysville and Lexington road," and the
+"Louisville canal" companies. The Kentuckians were in high dudgeon, and
+denounced Jackson as an enemy to internal improvement, and to the western
+states. It would appear that the friends of Adams and Clay, had determined
+to place Jackson in a dilemma which would involve his character, either as
+a friend to internal improvement or an enemy to lavish expenditure.
+Accordingly, they passed an unusual number of bills, appropriating money
+to the clearing of creeks, building of bridges, and making of canals and
+turnpike roads; the amount of which, instead of leaving a surplus of ten
+millions to the liquidation of the national debt, would not only have
+totally exhausted the treasury, but have actually exceeded by 20,000,000
+dollars the revenue of the current year. This manoeuvre was timely
+discovered by the administration, and the president consequently refused
+to put his signature to those bills, amongst a number of others. He
+refused on two grounds. The first was, that although it had been the
+practice of congress to grant sums of money for the purpose of making
+roads and perfecting other works, which only benefited one or two states;
+yet that such practice was not sanctioned by the constitution--the federal
+legislature having no power to act but with reference to the general
+interests of the states. The second was, that the road in question was
+local in the most limited sense, commencing at the Ohio river, and running
+back sixty miles to an interior town, and consequently, the grant in
+question came within neither the constitutional powers nor practice of
+congress.
+
+The president recommends that the surplus revenue, after the debt shall
+have been paid off, should be portioned out to the different states, in
+proportion to their ratio of representation; which appears to be
+judicious, as the question of congressional power to appropriate money to
+road-making, &c., although of a general character, involves also the right
+of jurisdiction; which congress clearly has not, except where the defence
+of the country, or other paramount interests, are concerned.
+
+The national debt will be totally extinguished in four years, when this
+country will present a curious spectacle for the serious consideration of
+European nations. During the space of fifty-six years, two successful wars
+have been carried on--one for the establishment, and the other for the
+maintenance of national independence, and a large amount of public works
+and improvements has been effected; yet, after the expiration of four
+years from this time, there will not only be no public debt, but the
+revenue arising from protecting tariff duties alone will amount to more
+than the expenditure by upwards of 10,000,000 dollars.
+
+A brief abstract from the treasury report on the finances of the United
+States, up to the 1st January, 1831, may not be uninteresting.
+
+                                             Dollars. Cts.
+Balance in the treasury, 1st January,
+1828                                         6,668,286 10
+
+Receipts of the year 1828                   24,789,463 61
+                                            _____________
+Total                                       31,457,749 71
+Expenditure for the year 1828               25,485,313 90
+                                            _____________
+Leaving a balance in the treasury, 1st
+January, 1829, of                            5,972,435 81
+
+Receipts from all sources during the
+year 1829                                   24,827,627 38
+
+Expenditures for the same year, including
+3,686,542 dol. 93 ct. on account of
+the public debt, and 9,033 dol. 38 ct.
+for awards under the first article of the
+treaty of Ghent                             25,044,358 40
+
+Balance in the treasury on 1st January,
+1830                                         5,755,704 79
+
+The receipts from all sources during the
+year 1830 were                              24,844,116 51
+
+                    viz.
+
+Customs                                     21,922,391 39
+
+Lands                                        2,329,356 14
+
+Dividends on bank stock                        490,000 00
+
+Incidental receipts                            102,368 98
+                                            _____________
+
+The expenditures for the same year were     24,585,281 55
+
+                    viz.
+
+Civil list, foreign intercourse,
+and miscellaneous                            3,237,416 04
+
+Military service, including
+fortifications, ordnance,
+Indian affairs,
+pensions, arming the
+militia, and internal
+improvements                                 6,752,688 66
+
+Naval service, including
+sums appropriated
+to the gradual
+improvement of the
+navy[14]                                     3,239,428 63
+
+Public debt                                 11,355,748 22
+                                            _____________
+
+Leaving a balance in the treasury
+on the 1st of January, 1831, of              6,014,539 75
+
+
+
+
+_Public Debt_.
+
+                                             Dollars. Cts.
+The payments made on account of the
+Public Debt, during the first three
+quarters of the year 1831, amounted to      9,883,479  46
+
+It was estimated that the payments to
+be made in the fourth quarter of the
+same year, would amount to                  6,205,810  21
+                                           ______________
+Making the whole amount of disbursments
+on account of the Debt in 1831             16,089,289  67
+
+
+
+THE  PUBLIC  DEBT,  ON  THE  SECOND  OF JANUARY, 1832, WILL
+BE AS FOLLOWS, VIZ.;--
+
+
+1. _Funded Debt_.
+                                             Dollars. Cts.
+Three per cents, per act
+of the 4th of August,
+1790, redeemable at the
+pleasure of government                      13,296,626 21
+
+Five per cents, per act of
+the 3rd of March, 1821,
+redeemable after the 1st
+January, 1823                                4,735,296 30
+
+Five per cents, (exchanged),
+per act of 20th of
+April, 1823; one third
+redeemable annually
+after 31st of December,
+1830, 1831 and 1832                            56,704  77
+
+Four and half per cents.
+per act of the 24th of
+May, 1824, redeemable
+after 1st of January,
+1832                                        1,739,524  01
+
+Four and half per cents.
+(exchanged), per act of
+the 26th of May, 1824;
+one half redeemable
+after the 31st day of
+December, 1832                              4,454,727  95
+                                           ______________
+                                           24,282,879  24
+
+
+2. _Unfunded Debt_.
+
+Registered Debt, being
+claims registered prior
+to the year 1793, for
+services and supplies
+during the revolutionary war                   27,919  85
+
+Treasury notes                                  7,116  00
+
+Mississippi stock                               4,320  09
+                                           ______________
+                                               39,355  94
+
+Making the whole amount of the Public
+Debt of the United States                  24,322,235  18
+                                           ______________
+
+Which is, allowing 480 cents to the
+sovereign, in sterling money            £5,067,132 6_s_. 7_d_.
+
+General Jackson has proposed another source of national revenue, in the
+establishment of a bank; the profits of which, instead of going into the
+pockets of stock-holders as at present, should be placed to the credit of
+the nation. If an establishment of this nature could be formed, without
+involving higher interests than the mere pecuniary concerns of the
+country, no doubt it would be most desirable. But how a _government_ bank
+could be so formed as that it should not throw immense and dangerous
+influence into the hands of the executive, appears difficult to determine.
+If it be at all connected with the government, the executive must exercise
+an extensive authority over its affairs; and in that case, the mercantile
+portion of the community would lie completely under the surveillance of
+the president, who might at pleasure exercise this immense patronage to
+forward private political designs. No doubt there have been abuses to a
+considerable extent practised by the present bank of the United States in
+the exercise of its functions; but how those abuses are likely to be
+remedied by Jackson's plan, does not appear. For, let the directors be
+appointed by government, or elected by congress, they must still exercise
+discretional power; and they are quite as likely to exercise it
+unwarrantably as those who have a direct interest in the prosperity of the
+concern. I totally disapprove of the attempt to correct the abuses of one
+monopoly by the establishment of another in its stead, of a still more
+dangerous character; and I am inclined to think that if two banks were
+chartered instead of one, each having ample capital to insure public
+confidence, competition alone would furnish a sufficient motive to induce
+them to act with justice and liberality towards the public.
+
+In 1766, Kentucky was first explored, by John Finlay, an Indian trader,
+Colonel Daniel Boon, and others. They again visited it in 1769, when the
+whole party, excepting Boon, were slain by the Indians--he escaped, and
+reached North Carolina, where he then resided. Accompanied by about forty
+expert hunters, comprised in five families, in the year 1775, he set
+forward to make a settlement in the country. They erected a fort on the
+banks of the Kentucky river, and being joined by several other
+adventurers, they finally succeeded. The Kentuckians tell of many a bloody
+battle fought by these pioneers, and boast that their country has been
+gained, every inch, by conquest.
+
+The climate of Kentucky is favourable to the growth of hemp, flax,
+tobacco, and all kinds of grain. The greater portion of the soil is rich
+loam, black, or mixed with reddish earth, generally to the depth of five
+or six feet, on a limestone bottom. The produce of corn is about sixty
+bushels on an average per acre, and of wheat about thirty-five; cotton is
+partially cultivated. The scenery is varied, and the country well
+watered.
+
+The Kentuckians all carry large pocket knives, which they never fail to
+use in a scuffle; and you may see a gentleman seated at the tavern door,
+balanced on two legs of a chair, picking his teeth with a knife, the blade
+of which is full six inches long, or cutting the benches, posts, or any
+thing else that may lie within his reach. Notwithstanding this, the
+Kentuckians are by no means more quarrelsome than any other people of the
+western states; and they are vastly less so than the people of Ireland.
+But when they do commence hostilities, they fight with great bitterness,
+as do most Americans, biting, gouging, and cutting unrelentingly.
+
+I never went into a court-house in the west _in summer_, without observing
+that the judges and lawyers had their feet invariably placed upon the
+desks before them, and raised much higher than their heads. This, however,
+is only in the western country; for in the courts at Orleans, New York,
+and Philadelphia, the greatest order and regularity is observed. I had
+been told that the judges often slept upon the bench; but I must confess,
+that although I have entered court-houses at all seasons during the space
+of fifteen months, I never saw an instance of it. I have frequently
+remonstrated with the Americans, on the total absence of forms and
+ceremonies in their courts of justice, and was commonly answered by "Yes,
+that may be quite necessary in England, in order to overawe a parcel of
+ignorant creatures, who have no share in making the laws; but with us, a
+man's a man, whether he have a silk gown on him or not; and I guess he can
+decide quite as well without a big wig as with one. You see, we have done
+with wiggery of all kinds; and if one of our judges were to wear such an
+appendage, he'd be taken for a merry-andrew, and the court would become a
+kind of show-box--instead of such arrangements producing with us
+solemnity, they would produce nothing but laughter, and the greatest
+possible irregularity."
+
+I was present at an election in the interior of the state. The office was
+that of representative in the state legislature, and the candidates were a
+hatter and a saddler; the former was also a militia major, and a Methodist
+preacher, of the Percival and Gordon school, who eschewed the devil and
+all the backsliding abominations of the flesh, as in duty bound. Sundry
+"stump orations" were delivered on the occasion, for the enlightenment of
+the electors; and towards the close of the proceedings, by way of an
+appropriate finale, the aforesaid triune-citizen and another gentleman,
+had a gouging scrape on the hustings. The major in this contest proved
+himself to be a true Kentuckian; that is, half a horse, and half an
+alligator; which contributed not a little to ensure his return. After the
+election, I was conversing with one of the most violent opponents of the
+successful candidate, and remarked to him, that I supposed he would rally
+his forces at the next election to put out the major: he replied, "I can't
+tell that!" I said, "why? will you not oppose him?" "Oh!" he says, "for
+that matter, he may do his duty pretty well." "And do you mean to say,"
+continued I, "that if he should do so, you will give him no opposition?"
+He looked at me, as if he did not clearly comprehend, and said, "Why, I
+guess not."
+
+The boatmen of the Ohio and Mississippi are the most riotous and lawless
+set of people in America, and the least inclined to submit to the
+constituted authorities. At Cincinnati I saw one of those persons
+arrested, on the wharf, for debt. He seemed little inclined to submit; as,
+could he contrive to escape to the opposite shore, he was safe. He called
+upon his companions in the flat-boat, who came instantly to his
+assistance, and were apparently ready to rescue him from the clutches of
+this trans-Atlantic bum-bailiff. The constable instantly pulled out--not a
+pistol, but a small piece of paper, and said, "I take him in the name of
+the States." The messmates of this unfortunate navigator looked at him for
+some time, and then one of them said drily, "I guess you must go with the
+constable." Subsequently, at New York, one evening returning to my hotel,
+I heard a row in a tavern, and wishing to see the process of capturing
+refractory citizens, I entered with some other persons. The constable was
+there unsupported by any of his brethren, and it seemed to me to be
+morally impossible that, without assistance, he could take half a dozen
+fellows, who were with difficulty restrained from whipping each other.
+However, his hand seemed to be as potent as the famous magic wand of
+Armida, for on placing it on the shoulders of the combatants, they fell
+into the ranks, and marched off with him as quietly as if they had been
+sheep. The rationale of the matter is this: those men had all exercised
+the franchise, if not in the election of these very constables, of
+others, and they therefore not only considered it to be their duty to
+support the constable's authority, but actually felt a strong inclination
+to do so. Because they _knew_ that the authority he exercised was only
+delegated to him by themselves, and that, in resisting him, they would
+resist their own sovereignty. Even in large towns in the western country,
+the constable has no men under his command, but always finds most powerful
+allies in the citizens themselves, whenever a lawless scoundrel, or a
+culprit is to be captured.
+
+At Flemingsburg I saw an Albino, a female about fourteen years old. Her
+parents were clear negros, of the Congo or Guinea race, and in every thing
+but colour she perfectly resembled them. Her form, face, and hair,
+possessed the true negro characteristics--curved shins, projecting jaw,
+retreating forehead, and woolly head. The skin was rather whiter than that
+of the generality of Europeans, but was deficient in glossiness, and
+although perfectly smooth, had a dry appearance. The wool on the head was
+of a light flaxen colour, and the iris of the eye was of a reddish-blue
+tinge. Her eyes were so weak as to bear with difficulty the glare of day.
+Most Albinos are dim sighted until twilight, when they appear to have as
+perfect vision as persons with the strongest sight, and in many cases,
+even more acute. This individual had evidently weak sight, as the eyelids
+were generally half closed, and she always held her head down during day
+light.
+
+Near the banks of the Ohio, full three hundred miles from the sea, I found
+conglomerations of marine shells, mixed with siliceous earth; and in
+nearly all the runs throughout Kentucky, limestone pebbles are found,
+bearing the perfect impressions of the interior of shells. The most
+abundant proofs are every where exhibited, that at one period the vast
+savannahs and lofty mountains of the New world were submerged; and perhaps
+the present bed of the ocean was once covered with verdure, and the seat
+of the sorrows and joys of myriads of human beings, who erected cities,
+and built pyramids, and monuments, which Time has long since swept away,
+and wrapt in his eternal mantle of oblivion. That a constant, but almost
+imperceptible change is hourly taking place in the earth's surface,
+appears to be established; and independent of the extraordinary
+_bouleversements_, which have at intervals convulsed our globe, this
+gradual revolution has produced, and will produce again, a total
+alteration in the face of nature.
+
+FOOTNOTES:
+
+[14] Amongst other plans to this effect, there is one proposed, by which
+midshipmen on half-pay will be obliged to make at least two voyages
+annually, in merchant ships, as mates, and all others must have done so,
+in order to entitle them to be reinstated in their former rank. Another
+is, that there shall be small vessels, rigged and fitted out in war
+style, appropriated to the purpose of teaching pupils, practically, the
+science of navigation, and the discipline necessary to be observed on
+board vessels of war. The Americans may not eat their fish with silver
+forks, nor lave their fingers in the most approved style; yet they are by
+no means so contemptible a people as some of our small gentry affect to
+think. They may too, occasionally, be put down in political argument, by
+the dogmatical method of the quarter-deck; but I must confess that _I_
+never was so fortunate as to come in contact with any who reasoned so
+badly as the persons Captain Bazil Hall introduces in his book.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER IX.
+
+
+The wailings of the Cherokee, the Choctaw, and the Creek, may have been
+wafted across the waters of the great salt lake, and the Pale-face in his
+own land may have heard their lamentations;--but the distant voice is
+scattered by the passing winds, and is heard like the whisper of a summer
+breeze as it steals along the prairies of the west, or the cry of the
+wish-ton-wish as it faintly reaches the ear of the navigator, when, in the
+stilly night, he floats down "the old father of waters."
+
+The present posture of Indian affairs, and the peculiar situation of the
+Indian nations east of the Mississippi, have caused that unfortunate
+people to be the topic of much political controversy and conversation; a
+succinct account of the political condition of these tribes, and of the
+policy which has been pursued, and which is being pursued towards them, by
+the executive government, may not therefore be uninteresting.
+
+When Georgia, by becoming a member of the Union, ceded part of her
+sovereignty to the general executive, that government acknowledged her
+claimed limits, and guaranteed to her the protection of the Union against
+foreign and domestic violence. Subsequently, in the year of 1802, in
+consideration of a certain portion of lands ceded, the United States
+became bound to purchase for Georgia, any claim which the Cherokee nation
+might have on lands within her boundaries, whenever such purchase could be
+made on reasonable terms. On these positions are based the Georgian
+claims, which the United States government has hitherto pleaded inability
+to satisfy, inasmuch as all efforts to purchase the Indian lands have
+proved fruitless.
+
+After the lapse of twenty-seven years, Georgia, finding herself precisely
+in the same condition in which she then stood, has determined on forcibly
+taking possession of the Cherokee lands, and extending her sovereignty
+over the Cherokee people. But as this cannot be effected without doing
+manifest violence to the Indian rights, she brings forward arguments to
+show, that _she_ never acknowledged the independence of the Cherokee
+nation; that that nation, from the time of the first settlement made by
+Europeans in America, stood in the position of a conquered people; that
+the sovereignty consequently dwelt in the hands of Great Britain; and
+that, on the Declaration of independence, Georgia, by becoming a free
+state, became invested with all the powers of sovereignty claimed or
+exercised by Great Britain over the Georgian territory: and further, that
+in November, 1785, when the first and only treaty was concluded with the
+Cherokees by the United States, during the articles of confederation, both
+she and North Carolina entered their solemn protests against this alleged
+violation of their legislative rights. The executive government pretends
+not to argue the case with Georgia, and is left no alternative but either
+to annul its _conditional_ treaty with that state, or to cancel _thirteen
+distinct treaties_ entered into with the Indians, despoil them of their
+lands, and rob them of their independence. Jackson's message says, "It is
+too late to inquire whether it was just in the United States to include
+them and their territory within bounds of new states, whose limits they
+could control. That step cannot be retracted. A state cannot be
+dismembered by Congress, or restrained in the exercise of her
+constitutional powers." Here the executive government acknowledges that it
+made promises to Georgia, which it has been unable to perform--that it
+guaranteed to that state the possession of lands over which it had no
+legitimate control, on the mere assumption of being able to make their
+purchase.
+
+The Cherokees in their petition and memorials to Congress show, that Great
+Britain never exercised any sovereignty over them;--that in peace and in
+war she always treated them as a free people, and never assumed to herself
+the right of interfering with their internal government:--that in every
+treaty made with them by the United States, their sovereignty and total
+independence are clearly acknowledged, and that they have ever been
+considered as a distinct nation, exercising all the privileges and
+immunities enjoyed by any independent people. They say, "In addition to
+that first of all rights, the right of inheritance and peaceable
+possession, we have the faith and pledge of the United States, over and
+over again, in treaties made at various times. By these treaties our
+rights as a separate people are distinctly acknowledged, and guarantees
+given that they shall be secured and protected. So we have also
+understood the treaties. The conduct of the government towards us, from
+its organization until very lately--the talks given to our beloved men by
+the Presidents of the United States--and the speeches of the agents and
+commissioners--all concur to show that we are not mistaken in our
+interpretation. Some of our beloved men who signed the treaties are still
+living, and their testimony tends to the same conclusion." * * * * "In
+what light shall we view the conduct of the United States and Georgia in
+their intercourse with us, in urging us to enter into treaties and cede
+lands? If we were but tenants at will, why was it necessary that our
+consent must first be obtained before these governments could take lawful
+possession of our lands? The answer is obvious. These governments
+perfectly understand our rights--our right to the country, and our right
+to self-government. Our understanding of the treaties is further supported
+by the intercourse law of the United States, which prohibits all
+encroachment on our territory."
+
+The arguments used by the Cherokees are unanswerable; but in what will
+that avail them, when injustice is intended by a superior power, which,
+regardless of national faith, has determined on taking possession of their
+lands? The case stands thus: the executive government enters into an
+agreement with Georgia, and engages to deliver over to the state the
+Indian possessions within her claimed limits--without the Indians _having
+any knowledge of, or participation in the transaction._ Now what, may I
+ask, have the Indians to do with this? Ought they to be made answerable
+for the gross misconduct of the two governments, and to be despoiled,
+contrary to every principle of justice, and in defiance of the most plain
+and fundamental law of property? It puts one in mind of the judgment of
+the renowned "Walter the Doubter," who decided between two citizens, that,
+as their account books appeared to be of equal _weight_, therefore their
+accounts were balanced, and that _the constable_ should pay the costs. The
+United States government has made several offers to the Cherokees for
+their lands; which they have as constantly refused, and said, "that they
+were very well contented where they were--that they did not wish to leave
+the bones of their ancestors, and go beyond the Mississippi; but that, if
+the country be so beautiful as their white brother represents it, they
+would recommend their white brother to go there himself."
+
+Georgia presses upon the executive; which, in this dilemma, comes forward
+with affected sympathy--deplores the unfortunate situation in which it is
+placed, but of course concludes that faith must be kept with Georgia, and
+that the Cherokee must either go, or submit to laws that make it far
+better for him to go than stay. It is true Jackson says in his message,
+"This emigration should be voluntary; for it would be cruel as unjust to
+compel the Aborigines to abandon the graves of their fathers, and seek a
+home in a distant land." But General Jackson well knows that the laws of
+Georgia leave the Indian no choice--as no community of men, civilized or
+savage, could possibly exist under such laws. The benefit and protection
+of the laws, to which the Indian is made subject, are entirely withheld
+from him--he can be no party to a suit--he may be robbed and murdered with
+impunity--his property may be taken, and he may be driven from his
+dwelling--in fine, he is left liable to every species of insult, outrage,
+cruelty, and dishonesty, without the most distant hope of obtaining
+redress; for in Georgia _an Indian cannot be a witness to prove facts
+against a white man._ Yet General Jackson says, "this emigration should be
+_voluntary_;" and in the very same paragraph, with a single sweep of the
+pen, he annihilates all the treaties that have been made with that
+people--tramples under foot the laws of nations, and deprives the Indian
+of his hunting-grounds, one of his sources of subsistence. He says,--"But
+it seems to me visionary to suppose that, in this state of things, claims
+can be allowed on tracts of country on which they have neither dwelt nor
+made improvements, merely because they have seen them from the mountain,
+or passed them in the chase." It certainly may be unphilosophical to
+permit any man to possess more ground than he can till with his own hands;
+yet surely arguments that we do not admit as regards ourselves, we can
+with no sense of propriety use towards others, particularly when our own
+acts are directly in the very teeth of this principle. There is more land
+at present within the limits and in the possession of the United States
+than would be sufficient to support thirty times the present
+population--yet to this must be added the hunting-grounds of the Indians,
+merely because "it is _visionary to suppose_ they have any claim on what
+they do not _actually occupy!"_
+
+I have now before me the particulars of thirteen treaties[15] made by the
+United States with the Cherokee nation, from the year 1785 down to 1819
+inclusive; in all of which the rights of the Indians are clearly
+acknowledged, either directly, or by implication; and by the seventh
+article of the treaty of Holston, executed in 1791, being the first
+concluded with that people by the United States, under their present
+constitution, all the lands not thereby ceded are solemnly guaranteed to
+the Cherokee nation. The subsequent treaties are made with reference to,
+and in confirmation of this, and continually reiterate the guarantees
+therein tendered.
+
+To talk of justice, and honour, would be idle and visionary, for these
+seem to have been thrown overboard at the very commencement of the
+contest; but I would ask the American _people_, is their conduct towards
+the Indians politic?--is it politic in America, in the face of civilized
+nations, to violate treaties? is it politic in her, to hold herself up to
+the world as faithless and unjust--as a nation, which, in defiance of all
+moral obligation, will break her most sacred contracts, whenever it
+becomes no longer her interest to keep them, and she finds herself in a
+condition to do so with impunity? is she not furnishing foreign statesmen
+with a ready and powerful argument in defence of their violating treaties
+with her? can they not with justice say--America has manifested in her
+proceedings towards the Cherokee nation, that she is faithless--that she
+keeps no treaties longer than it may be her _interest_ to do so--and are
+_we_ to make ourselves the dupes of such a power, and wait until she finds
+herself in a condition to deceive us? I could produce many arguments to
+illustrate the impolicy of this conduct; but as I intend confining myself
+to a mere sketch, I shall dwell but as short a time as may be consistent
+on the several facts connected with the case.
+
+That the Aborigines have been cruelly treated, cannot be doubted. The very
+words of the Message admit this; and the tone of feeling and conciliation
+which follows that admission, coupled as it is with the intended injustice
+expressed in other paragraphs, can be viewed in no other light than as a
+piece of political mockery. The Message says, "their present condition,
+contrasted with what they once were, makes a most powerful appeal to our
+sympathies. Our ancestors found them the uncontrolled possessors of these
+vast regions. By persuasion and force, they have been made to retire from
+river to river, and from mountain to mountain, until some of the tribes
+have become extinct, and others have left but remnants, to preserve for a
+while their once terrible names." Now the plan laid down by the president,
+in order to prevent, if possible, the total decay of the Indian people,
+is, to send them beyond the Mississippi, and _guarantee_ to them the
+possession of ample territory west of that river. How far this is likely
+to answer the purpose _expressed_, let us now examine.
+
+The Cherokees, by their intercourse with and proximity to the white
+people, have become half civilized; and how is it likely that _their_
+condition will be improved by driving them into the forests and barren
+prairies? That territory is at present the haunt of the Pawnees, the
+Osages, and other warlike nations, who live almost entirely by the chase,
+and are constantly waging war even with each other. As soon as the
+Cherokees, and other half-civilized Indians, appear, they will be regarded
+as common intruders, and be subject to the united attacks of these people.
+There are even old feuds existing among themselves, which, it is but too
+probable, may be renewed. Trappers and hunters, in large parties, yearly
+make incursions into the country beyond the boundaries of the United
+States, and in defiance of the Indians kill the beaver and the
+buffalo--the latter merely for the _tongue and skin_, leaving the carcase
+to rot upon the ground.[16] Thus is this unfortunate race robbed of their
+means of subsistence. Moreover, what guarantee can the Indians have, that
+the United States will keep faith for the future, when it is admitted that
+they have not done so in times past? How can they be sure that they may
+not further be driven from river to river, and from mountain to mountain,
+until they reach the shores of the Pacific; and who can tell but that then
+it may be found expedient to drive them into the ocean?
+
+The policy of the United States government is evidently to get the Indians
+to exterminate each other. Its whole proceedings from the time this
+question was first agitated to the present, but too clearly indicate this
+intention; and if we wanted proof, that the executive government of the
+United States _would act_ on so barbarous and inhuman a policy, we need
+only refer to the allocation of the Cherokees, who exchanged lands in
+Tennessee for lands west of the Mississippi, pursuant to the treaty of
+1819. It was well known that a deadly enmity existed between the Osages
+and Cherokees, and that any proximity of the two people, would inevitably
+lead to fatal results; yet, with this knowledge, the executive government
+placed those Cherokees in the country lying between the Arkansaw and Red
+rivers, _immediately joining the territory of the Osages._ It is
+unnecessary to state that the result was _as anticipated_--they daily
+committed outrages upon the persons and properties of each other, and the
+death of many warriors, on both sides, ensued.
+
+The sympathy expressed in that part of the Message relating to the
+Indians, if expressed with sincerity, would do much honour to the feelings
+that dictated it; but when we come to examine the facts, and investigate
+the implied allegations, we shall find that they are most gratuitous; and,
+consequently, that the regret of the president at the probable fate of the
+Indian, should he remain east of the Mississippi, is grossly hypocritical.
+He says, "surrounded by the whites, with their arts of civilization,
+which, by destroying the resources of the savage, doom him to weakness and
+decay:[17] the fate of the Mohegan, the Narragansett, and the Delaware, is
+fast overtaking the Choctaw, the Cherokee, and the Creek. That this fate
+surely awaits them, if they remain within the limits of the States, does
+not admit of a doubt. Humanity and national honour demand that every
+effort should be made to avert so great a calamity." From what facts the
+president has drawn these conclusions does not appear. Neither the
+statements of the Cherokees, nor of the Indian agents, nor the report of
+the secretary of war, furnish any such information; on the contrary, with
+the exception of one or two agents _at Washington_, all give the most
+flattering accounts of advancement in civilization. The Rev. Samuel A.
+Worcester, in his letter to the Rev. E.S. Ely, editor of the
+"Philadelphian," completely refutes all the unfavourable statements that
+have been got up to cover the base conduct of Jackson and the slavites.
+This gentleman has resided for the last four years among the Cherokees,
+and has surely had abundant means of observing their condition.
+
+The letter of David Brown (a Cherokee), addressed, September 2, 1825, to
+the editor of "The Family Visitor," at Richmond, Virginia, states, that
+"the Cherokee plains are covered with herds of cattle--sheep, goats, and
+swine, cover the valleys and hills--the plains and valleys are rich, and
+produce Indian corn, cotton, tobacco, wheat, oats, indigo, sweet and Irish
+potatoes, &c. The natives carry on a considerable trade with the adjoining
+states, and some of them export cotton in boats down the Tennessee to the
+Mississippi, and down that river to New Orleans. Orchards are
+common--cheese, butter, &c. plenty--houses of entertainment are kept by
+natives. Cotton and woollen cloths are manufactured in the nation, and
+almost every family grows cotton for its own consumption. Agricultural
+pursuits engage the chief attention of the nation--different branches of
+mechanics are pursued. Schools are increasing every year, and education is
+encouraged and rewarded." To quote David Brown verbatim, on the
+population,--"In the year 1819, an estimate was made of the Cherokees.
+Those on the west were estimated at 5,000, and those on the east of the
+Mississippi, at 10,000 souls. The census of this division of the Cherokees
+has again been taken within the current year (1825), and the returns are
+thus made: native citizens, 13,563; white men married in the nation, 147;
+white women ditto, 73; African slaves, 1177. If this summary of the
+Cherokee population, from the census, is correct, to say nothing of those
+of foreign extract, we find that in six years the increase has been 3,563
+souls. National pride, patriotism, and a spirit of independence, mark the
+Cherokee character." He further states, "the system of government is
+founded on republican principles, and secures the respect of the people."
+An alphabet has been invented by an Indian, named George Guess, the
+Cherokee Cadmus, and a printing press has been established at New Echota,
+the seat of government, where there is published weekly a paper entitled,
+"The Cherokee Phoenix,"--one half being in the English language, and the
+other in that of the Cherokee.
+
+The report of the secretary of war, upon the present condition of the
+Indians, states of the Chickesaws and Choctaws, all that has been above
+said of the Cherokees. But of the last-mentioned people, the secretary's
+accounts appear to be studiously defective. Yet the fact is notorious,
+that both the Chickesaws and Choctaws are far behind the Cherokees in
+civilization.
+
+With these facts before our eyes, what are we to think of the grief of the
+president, at the decay and increasing weakness of the Cherokees? Can it
+be regarded in any way but as a piece of shameless hypocrisy, too glaring
+in its character to escape the notice even of the most inobservant
+individual. It has been said that the question involves many
+difficulties--to me there appears none. The United States, in the year
+1791, guarantee to the Indians the possession of all their lands not then
+ceded--and confirm this by numerous subsequent treaties. In 1802, they
+promise to Georgia, the possession of the Cherokee lands "_whenever such
+purchase could be made on reasonable terms_" This is the simple state of
+the case; and if the executive were inclined to act uprightly, the line of
+conduct to be pursued could be determined on without much difficulty.
+Georgia has no right to press upon the executive the fulfilment of
+engagements which were made conditionally, and consequently with an
+implied reservation; and the United States should not violate _many
+positive treaties_, in order to fulfil _a conditional one_.[18]
+
+I shall now advert to some of the charges touching the character of the
+Indians. It is said, that they are debauched and insincere. This charge
+has been particularly made against the Creeks, and I believe is not
+altogether unfounded. Yet, if this be now the character of the once
+warlike and noble Creek, let the white man ask himself who has made him
+so? Who makes the "firewater," and who supplies the untutored savage with
+the means of intoxication? The white-man, when he wishes to trade
+profitably with the Indian, fills the cup, and holds it forth--he says,
+'drink, my brother, it is good'--the red-man drinks, and the wily white
+points at his condition, says he is uncivilized, and should go forth from
+the land, for his presence is contamination!
+
+As to the charge of hypocrisy--this too has been taught or forced upon the
+Indians by the conduct of the whites. Missionaries have been constantly
+going among them, teaching dogmas and doctrines, far beyond the
+comprehension of some learned white-men, and to the savage totally
+unintelligible. These gentlemen have told long stories; and when posed by
+some quaint saying, or answered by some piece of traditional information,
+handed down from generation to generation, by the fathers and mothers of
+the tribe, have found it necessary to purchase the acquiescence of a few
+Indians by bribes, in order that their labours might not seem to have been
+altogether unsuccessful. This conduct of the Missionaries was soon
+_understood_ by the Indians, and the temptation held out was too great to
+be resisted. Blankets and gowns converted, when inspiration and gospel
+truths had failed.
+
+Mr. Houston of Tennessee, after having attained the honour of being
+governor of his state, and having enjoyed all the consideration
+necessarily attached to that office, at length became tired of civilized
+life, and retired among the Creeks to end his days. He has resided long
+among them, and knows their character well; yet, in one of his statements
+made to the Indian board at New York, he says, that the attempts to
+Christianize the Indians in their present state, he was of opinion, much
+as he honoured the zeal that had prompted them, were fruitless, _or
+worse._ The supposed conversions had produced no change of habits. So
+degraded had become the character of this once independent people, that
+professions of religious belief had been made, and the ordinances of
+religion submitted to, "when an Indian wanted a new blanket, or a squaw a
+new gown."[19] Thus, according to governor Houston, the only fruits
+produced by the boasted labours of the missionaries, have been
+dissimulation and deceit; and demoralization has been the result of
+teaching _doctrinal_ Christianity to the children of the forest. Yet we
+must, in candour, acknowledge that Mr. Houston is not singular in that
+opinion, since we find, so far back as the year 1755, Cadwallader Calden
+express himself much to the same effect. "The Five Nations," he says, "are
+a poor and generally called barbarous people, bred under the darkest
+ignorance; and yet a bright and noble genius shines through these black
+clouds. None of the greatest Roman heroes have discovered a greater love
+of country, or contempt of death, than these people, called barbarous,
+have shown when liberty came in competition. Indeed I think our Indians
+have outdone the Romans in this particular. Some of the greatest of those
+Roman heroes have murdered themselves to avoid shame or torments; but our
+Indians have refused to die meanly or with little pain, when they thought
+their country's honour would be at stake by it; but have given their
+bodies willingly to the most cruel torments of their enemies, to show, as
+they said, that 'the Five Nations' consisted of men whose courage and
+resolution could not be shaken. But what, alas! have we Christians done to
+make them better? We have, indeed, reason to be ashamed that these
+infidels, by our conversation and neighbourhood, are become worse than
+they were before they knew us. Instead of virtue, we have only taught them
+vice, that they were entirely free from before that time."[20] The Rev.
+Timothy Flint, who was himself a missionary, in his "Ten Years' Residence
+in the Valley of the Mississippi," observes, page 144,--"I have surely
+had it in my heart to impress them with the importance of the subject
+(religion). I have scarcely noticed an instance in which the subject was
+not received either with indifference, rudeness, or jesting. Of all races
+of men that I have seen, they seem most incapable of religious
+impressions. They have, indeed, some notions of an invisible agent, but
+they seemed generally to think that the Indians had their god as the
+whites had theirs." And again, "nothing will eventually be gained to the
+great cause by colouring and mis-statement," alluding to the practice of
+the missionaries; "and however reluctant we may be to receive it, the real
+state of things will eventually be known to us. We have heard of the
+imperishable labours of an Elliott and a Brainard, in other days. But in
+these times it is a melancholy truth, that Protestant exertions to
+Christianize them have not been marked with apparent success. The
+Catholics have caused many to hang a crucifix around their necks, which
+they show as they show their medals and other ornaments, and this is too
+often all they have to mark them as Christians. We have read the
+narratives of the Catholics, which detailed the most glowing and animating
+views of success. I have had accounts, however, from travellers in these
+regions, that have been over the Stony mountains into the great missionary
+settlements of St. Peter and St. Paul. These travellers (and some of them
+were professed Catholics) unite in affirming that the converts will escape
+from the missions whenever it is in their power, fly into their native
+deserts, and resume at once their old mode of life."
+
+That the vast sums expended on missions should have produced so little
+effect, we may consider lamentable, but it is lamentably true; for in
+addition to the mass of evidence we have to that effect, from
+disinterested white men, we have also the speeches and communications of
+the Indians themselves. The celebrated Seneca chief, Saguyuwhaha (keeper
+awake), better known in the United States by the name of Red-jacket, in a
+letter communicated to Governor De Witt Clinton, at a treaty held at
+Albany, says, "Our great father, the President, has recommended to our
+young men to be industrious, to plough and to sow. This we have done; and
+we are thankful for the advice, and for the means he has afforded us of
+carrying it into effect. We are happier in consequence of it; _but another
+thing recommended to us, has created great confusion among us, and is
+making us a quarrelsome and divided people; and that is, the introduction
+of preachers into our nation_. These black-coats contrive to get the
+consent of some of the Indians to preach among us; and whenever this is
+the case, confusion and disorder are sure to follow, and the encroachment
+of the whites on our lands is the inevitable consequence.
+
+"The governor must not think hard of me for speaking thus of the
+preachers: I have observed their progress, and whenever I look back to
+see what has taken place of old, I perceive that whenever they came among
+the Indians, they were the forerunners of their dispersion; that they
+always excited enmities and quarrels amongst them; that they introduced
+the white people on their lands, by whom they were robbed and plundered of
+their property; and that the Indians were sure to dwindle and decrease,
+and be driven back, in proportion to the number of preachers that came
+among them.
+
+"Each nation has its own customs and its own religion. The Indians have
+theirs, given them by the Great Spirit, under which they were happy. It
+was not intended that they should embrace the religion of the whites, and
+be destroyed by the attempt to make them think differently on that subject
+from their fathers.
+
+"It is true, these preachers have got the consent of some of the chiefs to
+stay and preach amongst us; but I and my friends know this to be wrong,
+and that they ought to be removed; besides, we have been threatened by Mr.
+Hyde--who came among us as a schoolmaster and a teacher of our children,
+but has now become a black-coat, and refuses to teach them any more--that
+unless we listen to his preaching and become Christians, we shall be
+turned off our lands. We wish to know from the governor, if this is to be
+so? and if he has no right to say so, we think _he_ ought to be turned off
+our lands, and not allowed to plague us any more. We shall never be at
+peace while he is among us.
+
+"We are afraid too, that these preachers, by and by, will become poor,
+_and force us to pay them for living among us, and disturbing us._
+
+"Some of our chiefs have got lazy, and instead of cultivating their lands
+themselves, employ white people to do so. There are now eleven families
+living on our reservation at Buffalo; this is wrong, and ought not to be
+permitted. The great source of all our grievances is, that the whites are
+among us. Let _them_ be removed, and we will be happy and contented among
+ourselves. We now cry to the governor for help, and hope that he will
+attend to our complaints, and speedily give us redress."[21]
+
+This melancholy hostility to the missionaries is not confined to a
+particular tribe or nation of Indians, for all those people, in every
+situation, from the base of the Alleghanies to the foot of the Rocky
+mountains, declare the same sentiments on this subject; and although
+policy or courtesy may induce some chiefs to express themselves less
+strongly than Red-jacket has expressed himself, we have but too many
+proofs that their feelings are not more moderate. On the fourth of
+February, 1822, the president of the United States, in council, received a
+deputation of Indians, from the principal nations west of the
+Mississippi, who came under the protection of Major O'Fallon, when each
+chief delivered a speech on the occasion. I shall here insert an extract
+from that of the "Wandering Pawnee" chief, more as a specimen of Indian
+wisdom and eloquence than as bearing particularly on the subject. Speaking
+of the Great Spirit, he said, "We worship him not as you do. We differ
+from you in appearance, and manners, as well as in our customs; and we
+differ from you in our religion. We have no large houses, as you have, to
+worship the Great Spirit in: if we had them to-day, we should want others
+to-morrow; for we have not like you a fixed habitation--we have no settled
+home except our villages, where we remain but two months in twelve. We,
+like animals, rove through the country; whilst you whites reside between
+us and heaven. But still, my great Father, we love the Great Spirit--we
+acknowledge his supreme power--our peace, our health, and our happiness
+depend upon him, and our lives belong to him--he made us, and he can
+destroy us.
+
+"My great Father,--some of your good chiefs, as they are called
+(missionaries), have proposed to send some of their good people among us
+to change our habits, to make us work for them, and live like the white
+people. I will not tell a lie--I am going to tell the truth. You love your
+country--you love your people--you love the manner in which they live, and
+you think your people brave. I am like you, my great Father; I love my
+country--I love my people--I love the manner in which we live, and think
+myself and warriors brave.[22] Spare me then, my Father; let me enjoy my
+country, and pursue the buffalo and the beaver, and the other wild animals
+of our country, and I will trade their skins with your people. I have
+grown up and lived thus long without work--I am in hopes you will suffer
+me to die without it. We have plenty of buffalo, beaver, deer, and other
+wild animals--we have also an abundance of horses--we have every thing we
+want--we have plenty of land, _if you will keep your people off it_. My
+Father has a piece on which he lives (Council bluffs), and we wish him to
+enjoy it--we have enough without it--but we wish him to live near us, to
+give us good council--to keep our ears and eyes open, that we may continue
+to pursue the right road--the road to happiness. He settles all
+differences between us and the whites, between the red-skins
+themselves--he makes the whites do justice to the red-skins, and he makes
+the red-skins do justice to the whites. He saves the effusion of human
+blood, and restores peace and happiness in the land. You have already sent
+us a father (Major O'Fallon); it is enough--he knows us, and we know
+him--we keep our eye constantly upon him, and since we have heard _your_
+words, we will listen more attentively to _his_.
+
+"It is too soon, my great Father, to send those good chiefs amongst us.
+_We are not starving yet_--we wish you to permit us to enjoy the chase
+until the game of our country is exhausted--until the wild animals become
+extinct. Let us exhaust our present resources before you make us toil and
+interrupt our happiness. Let me continue to live as I have done; and after
+I have passed to the good or evil spirit, from off the wilderness of my
+present life, the subsistence of my children may become so precarious as
+to need and embrace the assistance of those good people.
+
+"There was a time when we did not know the whites--our wants were then
+fewer than they are now. They were always within our control--we had then
+seen nothing which we could not get. Before our intercourse with the
+whites (who have caused such a destruction in our game) we could lie down
+to sleep, and when we awoke we would find the buffalo feeding around our
+camp--but now we are killing them for their skins, and feeding the wolves
+with their flesh, to make our children cry over their bones.
+
+"Here, my great Father, is a pipe which I present to you, as I am
+accustomed to present pipes to all the Red-skins in peace with us. It is
+filled with such tobacco as we were accustomed to smoke before we knew
+the white people. It is pleasant, and the spontaneous growth of the most
+remote parts of our country. I know that the robes, leggings, and
+moccasins, and bear-claws are of little value to _you_; but we wish you to
+have them deposited and preserved in some conspicuous part of your lodge,
+so that when we are gone and the sod turned over our bones, if our
+children should visit this place, as we do now, they may see and recognize
+with pleasure the depositories of their fathers; and reflect on the times
+that are past."
+
+I shall now take leave of the Indians and their political condition, by
+observing that the proceedings of the American government, throughout,
+towards this brave but unfortunate race, have only been exceeded in
+atrocity by the past and present conduct of the East India government
+towards the pusillanimous but unoffending Hindoos.
+
+    _Note_.--This chapter I wrote during my stay in Kentucky, and the
+    first part of it, in substance, was inserted in the "Kentucky
+    Intelligencer," at the request of the talented editor and
+    proprietor, John Mullay, Esq.
+
+FOOTNOTES:
+
+[15] In November, 1785, during the articles of confederation, a treaty is
+concluded with the Cherokees, which establishes a boundary, and allots to
+the Indians a great extent of country, now within the limits of North
+Carolina and Georgia.
+
+In 1791, the treaty of Holston is concluded; by which a new boundary is
+agreed upon. This was the first treaty made by the United States under
+their present constitution; and by the seventh article, a solemn
+guarantee is given for all the lands not then ceded.
+
+On the 7th of February, 1792, by an additional article to the last
+treaty, 500 dollars are added to the stipulated annuity.
+
+In June, 1794, another treaty is entered into, in which the provisions of
+the treaty of 1791 are revived, an addition is made to the annuity, and
+provision made for marking the boundary line.
+
+In October, 1798, a treaty is concluded which revives former treaties,
+and curtails the boundary of Indian lands by a cession to the United
+States, for an additional compensation.
+
+In October, 1804, a treaty is concluded, by which, for a consideration
+specified, more land is ceded.
+
+In October, 1805, two treaties are made, by which an additional quantity
+of land is ceded.
+
+On 7th January, 1806, by another treaty, more land is ceded to the United
+States.
+
+In September, 1807, the boundary line intended in the last treaty, is
+satisfactorily ascertained.
+
+On 22d March, 1816, a treaty is concluded, by which lands in South
+Carolina are ceded, for which the United States engage South Carolina
+shall pay. On the same day another treaty is made, by which the Indians
+agree to allow the use of the water-courses in their country, and also to
+permit roads to be made through the same.
+
+On the 14th of September, 1816, a treaty is made, by which an additional
+quantity of land is ceded to the United States.
+
+On the 8th of July, 1817, a treaty is concluded, by which an exchange of
+lands is agreed on, and a plan for dividing the Cherokees settled.
+
+On the 27th of February, 1819, another treaty is concluded, in execution
+of the stipulations contained in that of 1817, in several particulars,
+and in which an additional tract of country is ceded to the United
+States.
+
+[16] "The white hunter, on encamping in his journeys, cuts down green
+trees, and builds a large fire of long logs, sitting at some distance
+from it. The Indian hunts up a few dry limbs, cracks them into little
+pieces a foot in length, builds a small fire, and sits close to it. He
+gets as much warmth as the white hunter without half the labour, and does
+not burn more than a fiftieth part of the wood. The Indian considers the
+forest his own, and is careful in using and preserving every thing which
+it affords. He never kills more than he has occasion for. The white
+hunter destroys all before him, and cannot resist the opportunity of
+killing game, although he neither wants the meat nor can carry the skins.
+I was particularly struck with this wanton practice, which lately
+occurred on White river. A hunter returning from the woods, heavily laden
+with the flesh and skins of five bears, unexpectedly arrived in the midst
+of a drove of buffalos, and wantonly shot down three, having no other
+object than the sport of killing them. This is one of the causes
+of the enmity existing between the white and red hunters of
+Missouri".--_Schoolcroft's Tour in Missouri_, page 52.
+
+[17] Does the General include among the arts of civilization, that of
+systematically robbing the Indians of their farms and hunting grounds? If
+so, no doubt _these arts of civilization_, must inevitably "destroy the
+resources of the savage," and "doom him to weakness and decay."
+
+[18] The Indians apply the term "Christian honesty," precisely in the
+same sense that the Romans applied "_Punica fides_."
+
+[19] There is an old Indian at present in the Missouri territory, to whom
+his tribe has given the cognomen of "much-water," from the circumstance
+of his having been baptized so frequently.
+
+[20] Heriot says (page 320), "They have evinced a decided attachment to
+their ancient habits, and have _gained_ less from the means that might
+have smoothed the asperities of their condition, than they have _lost_ by
+copying the vices of those, who exhibited to their view the arts of
+civilization."
+
+[21] This letter was dictated by Red-jacket, and interpreted by Henry
+Obeal, in the presence of ten chiefs, whose names are affixed, at
+Canandaigua, January 18, 1821.
+
+[22] "The attachment which savages entertain for their mode of life
+supersedes every allurement, however powerful, to change it. Many
+Frenchmen have lived with them, and have imbibed such an invincible
+partiality for that independent and erratic condition, that no means
+could prevail on them to abandon it. On the contrary, no single instance
+has yet occurred of a savage being able to reconcile himself to a state
+of civilization. Infants have been taken from among the natives, and
+educated with much care in France, where they could not possibly have
+intercourse with their countrymen and relations. Although they had
+remained several years in that country, and could not form the smallest
+idea of the wilds of America, the force of blood predominated over that
+of education: no sooner did they find themselves at liberty than they
+tore their clothes in pieces, and went to traverse the forests in search
+of their countrymen, whose mode of life appeared to them far more
+agreeable than that which they had led among the French."--_-Heriot_, p.
+354.
+
+This passage of Heriot's is taken nearly verbatim from Charlevoix, v. 2,
+p. 109.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER X.
+
+
+I left Kentucky, and passed up the river to Wheeling, in Virginia. There
+is little worthy of observation encountered in a passage up this part of
+the Ohio, except the peculiar character of the stream, which has been
+before alluded to. At Marietta, at the mouth of the Muskingum,
+ship-building is carried on; and vessels have been constructed at
+Pittsburg, full 2000 miles from the gulf of Mexico. About seventy miles up
+the Kenhawa river, in Virginia, are situated the celebrated salt springs,
+the most productive of any in the Union. They are at present in the
+possession of a chartered company, which limits the manufacture to
+800,000 bushels annually, but it is estimated that the fifty-seven wells
+are capable of yielding 50,000 bushels each, per annum, which would make
+an aggregate of 2,850,000 bushels. Many of these springs issue out of
+rocks, and the water is so strongly impregnated with salt, that from 90 to
+130 gallons yield a bushel. The whole western country bordering the Ohio
+and its tributaries, is supplied with salt from these works.
+
+Wheeling, although not large, enjoys a considerable share of commercial
+intercourse, being an entrepôt for eastern merchandize, which is
+transported from the Atlantic cities across the mountains to this town and
+Pittsburg, and from thence by water to the different towns along the
+rivers.
+
+The process of "hauling" merchandize from Baltimore and Philadelphia to
+the banks of the Ohio, and _vice versâ_, is rather tedious, the roads
+lying across steep and rugged mountains. Large covered waggons, light and
+strong, drawn by five or six horses, two and two, are employed for this
+purpose. The waggoner always rides the near shaft horse, and guides the
+team by means of reins, a whip, and his voice. The time generally consumed
+in one of these journeys is from twenty to twenty-five days.
+
+All the mountains or hills on the upper part of the Ohio, from Wheeling to
+Pittsburg, contain immense beds of coal; this added to the mineral
+productions, particularly that of iron ore, which abound in this section
+of country, offers advantages for manufacturing, which are of considerable
+importance, and are fully appreciated. Pittsburg is called the Birmingham
+of America. Some of those coal beds are well circumstanced, the coal being
+found immediately under the super-stratum, and the galleries frequently
+running out on the high road. Notwithstanding the local advantages, and
+the protection and encouragement at present afforded by the tariff,
+England need never fear any extensive competition with her manufactures
+in foreign markets from America, as the high spirit of the people of that
+country will always prevent them from pursuing, extensively, the sordid
+occupations of the loom or the workshop.
+
+The upper parts of Virginia and Pennsylvania are in a high state of
+improvement; the land is hilly, and the face of the country picturesque.
+The farms are well cultivated, and there is a large portion of pasture
+land in this and the adjoining states. I encountered several large droves
+of horses and black cattle on their way to the neighbourhood of
+Philadelphia and to the state of New York. The black cattle are purchased
+principally in Ohio, whence they are brought into the Atlantic states, to
+be fattened and consumed. The farmers and their families in Pennsylvania,
+have an appearance of comfort and respectability a good deal resembling
+that of the substantial English yeoman; yet farming here, as in all parts
+of the country, is a laborious occupation.
+
+I crossed the Monongahela at Williamsport, and the Youghaghany at
+Robstown, and so on through Mountpleasant to the first ridge of mountains,
+called "the chestnut ridge." I determined on crossing the mountains on
+foot; and after having made arrangements to that effect, I commenced
+sauntering along the road. Near Mountpleasant, I stopped to dine at the
+house of a Dutchman by descent. After dinner, the party adjourned, as is
+customary, to the bar-room, when divers political and polemical topics
+were canvassed with the usual national warmth. An account of his late
+Majesty's death was inserted in a Philadelphia paper, and happened to be
+noticed by one of the politicians present, when the landlord asked me how
+we elected our king in England. I replied that he was not elected, but
+that he became king by birthright, &c. A Kentuckian observed, placing his
+leg on the back of the next chair, "That's a kind of unnatural." An
+Indianian said, "I don't believe in that system myself." A third--"Do you
+mean to tell me, that because the last king was a smart man and knew his
+duty, that his son, or his brother, should be a smart man, and fit for the
+situation?" I explained that we had a premier, ministers, &c.;--when the
+last gentleman replied, "Then you pay half-a-dozen men to do one man's
+business. Yes--yes--that may do for Englishmen very well; but, I guess, it
+would not go down here--no, no, Americans are a little more enlightened
+than to stand that kind of wiggery." During this conversation, a person
+had stepped into the room, and had taken his seat in silence. I was about
+to reply to the last observations of my antagonist, when this gentleman
+opened out, with, "yes! that may do for Englishmen very well"--he was an
+Englishman, I knew at once by his accent, and I verily believe the
+identical radical who set the village of Bracebridge by the ears, and
+pitched the villagers to the devil, on seeing them grin through a
+horse-collar, when they should have been calculating the interest of the
+national debt, or conning over the list of sinecure placemen. He held in
+his hand, instead of "Cobbett's Register," the "Greenville
+Republican."--He had substituted for his short-sleeved coat, "a
+round-about."--He seemed to have put on flesh, and looked somewhat more
+contented. "Yes, yes," he says, "that may do for Englishmen very well, but
+it won't do here. Here we make our own laws, and we keep them too. It may
+do for Englishmen very well, to have _the liberty_ of paying taxes for the
+support of the nobility. To have _the liberty_ of being incarcerated in a
+gaol, for shooting the wild animals of the country. To have _the liberty_
+of being seized by a press-gang, torn away from their wives and families,
+and flogged at the discretion of my lord Tom, Dick, or Harry's bastard."
+At this, the Kentuckian gnashed his teeth, and instinctively grasped his
+hunting-knife;--an old Indian doctor, who was squatting in one corner of
+the room, said, slowly and emphatically, as his eyes glared, his nostrils
+dilated, and his lip curled with contempt--"The Englishman is a
+dog"--while a Georgian slave, who stood behind his master's chair, grinned
+and chuckled with delight, as he said--"_poor_ Englishman, him meaner man
+den black nigger."--"To have," continued the Englishman, "_the liberty_ of
+being transported for seven years for being caught learning the use of the
+sword or the musket. To have the tenth lamb, and the tenth sheaf seized,
+or the blanket torn from off his bed, to pay a bloated, a plethoric bishop
+or parson,--to be kicked and cuffed about by a parcel of 'Bourbon
+_gendarmerie_'--Liberty!--why hell sweat"--here I--slipped out at the side
+door into the water-melon patch. As I receded, I heard the whole party
+burst out into an obstreperous fit of laughter.--A few broken sentences,
+from the Kentuckian and the radical, reached my ear, such as "backed
+out"--"damned aristocratic." I returned in about half an hour to pay my
+bill, when I could observe one or two of those doughty politicians who
+remained, leering at me most significantly. However, I--"smiled, and said
+nothing."
+
+"The Chestnut ridge" is a chain of rocky, barren mountains, covered with
+wood, and the ascent is steep and difficult. It is named from the quantity
+of chestnut trees that compose the bulk of its timber. Being a little
+fatigued in ascending, I sat down in a wood of scrub oak. When I had been
+some time seated on a large stone, my ear caught the gliding of a snake.
+Turning quickly, I perceived, at about a yard's distance, a reptile of
+that beautiful species the rattle-snake. He ceased moving: I jumped up,
+and struck at his head with a stick, but missed the blow. He instantly
+coiled and rattled. I now retreated beyond the range of his spring.
+Perceiving that I had no intention of giving him fair play by coming
+within his reach, he suddenly uncoiled and glid across a log, thinking to
+make good his retreat; but being determined on having--not his scalp, for
+the head of a rattle-snake is rather a dangerous toy--but his rattle, I
+pursued him across the log. He now coiled again, and rattled most
+furiously, thus indicating his extreme wrath at being attacked: the bite
+of this reptile is most venomous when he is most enraged. I took up a flat
+stone, about six inches square, and lobbed it on his coil. He suddenly
+darted out towards me; but, as I had anticipated, he was encumbered with
+the stone. I now advanced, and struck him on the head with my stick. I
+repeated the blow until he seemed to be deprived of sensation, when I drew
+my hunting knife and decapitated him. For a full hour afterwards the body
+retained all the vigour and sensitiveness which it possessed previous to
+decapitation, and on touching any part of it, would twist round in the
+same manner as when the animal was perfect. Sensation gradually
+disappeared, departing first from the extremities--more towards the
+wounded extremity than towards the other, but gradually from both, until
+it was entirely gone. The length of this reptile was about four feet, and
+the skin was extremely beautiful. Nothing could exceed the beauty of his
+eye. A clear black lustre characterizes the eye of this animal, and is
+said to produce so powerful an effect on birds and smaller animals, as to
+deprive them of the power of escaping. This snake had eight rattles, so
+that he must have been at least eleven years old. I understood afterwards
+that there was a rattle-snakes' den in the neighbourhood. They appear to
+live in society, and the large quantities that are frequently found
+congregated together are astonishing. The Jacksonville (Illinois) Gazette
+of the 22d April, 1830, says, "Last week, a den of rattle-snakes was
+discovered near Apple Creek, by a person while engaged in digging for rock
+in that part of our country. He made known the circumstance to the
+neighbours, who visited the place, where they killed 193 rattle-snakes,
+the largest of which (as our informant, who was on the spot, told us)
+measured nearly four feet in length. Besides these, there were sixteen
+black snakes destroyed, together with one copper-head. Counting the young
+ones, there were upwards of 1000 killed." There are two species of
+rattle-snake, which are in constant hostility with each other. The common
+black snake, whose bite is perfectly innoxious, and the copper-head, have
+also a deadly enmity towards the rattle-snake, which, when they meet it,
+they never fail to attack.
+
+The next ridge of mountains is called the "laurel hills," which are
+covered with an immense growth of different species of laurel. Between
+these and the Alleghany ridge are situated "the glades"--beautiful fertile
+plains in a high state of cultivation. This district is most healthy, and
+fevers and agues are unknown to the inhabitants. Here the "Delawares of
+the hills" once roamed the sole lords of this fine country; and perhaps
+from the very eminence from whence I contemplated the beauty of the scene,
+some warrior, returning from the "war path" or the chase, may have gazed
+with pleasure on the hills of his fathers, the possessions of a long line
+of Sylvan heros, and in the pride of manhood said--'The Delawares are
+men--they are strong in battle, and cunning on the trail of their foes--at
+the 'council fire' there is wisdom in their words. Who counts more scalps
+than the Lenni Lenapé warrior?--he can never be conquered--the stranger
+shall never dwell in his glades.' Where now is the "Delaware of the
+hills?"--gone!--his very name is unknown in his own land, and not a
+vestige remains to tell that _there_ once dwelt a great and powerful
+tribe. When the white man falls, his high towers and lofty battlements are
+laid crumbling with the dust, yet these mighty ruins remain for ages,
+monuments of his former greatness: but the Indian passes away, silent as
+the noiseless tread of the moccasin--the next snow comes, and his "trail"
+is blotted out for ever.
+
+I toiled across the Alleghanies, which are completely covered with timber,
+and passed on to a place within about thirty miles of Chambersburg, on a
+branch of the Potomac. Here, coming in upon _civilization_, I took the
+stage to Baltimore. In my pedestrian excursion the road lay for several
+miles along the banks of the Juniata, which is a very fine river. The
+scenery is romantic, and is much beautified by a large growth of
+magnificent pines. The Alleghany ridge is composed chiefly of sand-stone,
+clay-slate, and lime-stone-slate, sand-stone sometimes in large blocks.
+
+I encountered several parties of French, Irish, Swiss, Bavarians, Dutch,
+&c. going westward, with swarms of children, and considerable quantities
+of household lumber:--symptoms of seeking _El dorado_.
+
+In the neighbourhood of Baltimore there are many handsome residences, and
+the farms are all well cleared, and in many cases walled in. The number of
+comparatively miserable-looking cabins which are dispersed along the road
+near this town, and the long lists of crimes and misdemeanours with which
+the Journals of Baltimore and Philadelphia are filled, sufficiently
+indicate that these cities have arrived to an advanced state of
+civilization. For, wherever there are very rich people, there must be very
+poor people; and wherever there are very poor people, there must
+necessarily exist a proportionate quantity of crime. Men are poor, only
+because they are ignorant; for if they possessed a knowledge of their own
+powers and capabilities, they would then know, that however wealth may be
+distributed, all real wealth is created by labour, and by labour alone.
+
+Baltimore is seated on the north side of the Patapsco river, within a few
+miles of the Chesapeak bay. It received its name in compliment to the
+Irish family of the Calverts. The harbour, at Fell Point, has about
+eighteen feet water, and is defended by a strong fort, called Mc Henry's
+fort, on Observation Hill. Vessels of large tonnage cannot enter the
+basin. In 1791 it contained 13,503 inhabitants; in 1810, 46,487; and at
+present it contains 80,519. There are many fine buildings and monuments in
+this city; and the streets in which business is not extensively
+transacted, are planted with Lombardy poplar, locust, and pride-of-china
+trees,--the last mentioned especially afford a fine shade.
+
+A considerable schooner trade is carried on by the merchants of Baltimore
+with South America. The schooners of this port are celebrated for their
+beauty, and are much superior to those of any other port on the Continent.
+They are sharp built, somewhat resembling the small Greek craft one sees
+in the Mediterranean. A rail-road is being constructed from this place to
+the Ohio river, a distance of upwards of three hundred miles, and about
+fourteen miles of the road is already completed, as is also a viaduct. If
+the enterprising inhabitants of Baltimore be able to finish this
+undertaking, it must necessarily throw a very large amount of wealth into
+their hands, to the prejudice of Philadelphia and New York. But the
+expense will be enormous.
+
+I left Baltimore for Philadelphia in one of those splendid and spacious
+steam-boats peculiar to this country. We paddled up the Chesapeak bay
+until we came to Elk river--the scenery at both sides is charming. A
+little distance up this river commences the "Chesapeak and Delaware
+canal," which passes through the old state of Delaware, and unites the
+waters of the two bays. Here we were handed into a barge, or what we in
+common parlance would term a large canal boat; but the Americans are the
+fondest people in the universe of big names, and ransack the Dictionary
+for the most pompous appellations with which to designate their works or
+productions. The universal fondness for European titles that obtains here,
+is also remarkable. The president, is "his excellency,"--"congressmen,"
+are "honorables,"--and every petty merchant, or "dry-goods store-keeper,"
+is, at least, an esquire. Their newspapers contain many specimens of this
+love of monarchical distinctions--such as, "wants a situation, as
+store-keeper (shopman), a gentleman, &c." "Two gentlemen were convicted
+and sentenced to six months' imprisonment for horse-stealing, &c." These
+two items I read myself in the papers of the western country, and the
+latter was commented on by a Philadelphia journal. You may frequently see
+"Miss Amanda," without shoes or stockings--certainly for convenience or
+economy, not from necessity, and generally in Dutch houses--and "that
+_ere_ young lady" scouring the pails! An accident lately occurred in one
+of the factories in New England, and the local paper stated, that "one
+young lady was seriously injured,"--this young lady was a spinner.
+Observe, I by no means object to the indiscriminate use of the terms
+_gentleman_ and _lady_, but merely state the fact. On the contrary, so far
+am I from finding fault with the practice, that I think it quite fair;
+when any portion of republicans make use of terms which properly belong to
+a monarchy, that all classes should do the same, it being unquestionably
+their right. It does not follow, because a man may be introduced as an
+_American gentleman_, that he may not be simply a mechanic.
+
+The Chesapeak and Delaware canal is about fourteen miles in length; and
+from the nature of the soil through which it is cut, there was some
+difficulty attending the permanent security of the work. On reaching the
+Delaware, we were again handed into a steamer, and so conducted to
+Philadelphia. The merchant shipping, and the numerous pleasure and
+steam-boats, and craft of every variety, which are constantly moving on
+the broad bosom of the Delaware, present a gay and animated scene.
+
+Philadelphia is a regular well-built city, and one of the handsomest in
+the states. It lies in latitude 39° 56' north, and longitude, west of
+London, 75° 8'; distant from the sea, 120 miles. The city stands on an
+elevated piece of ground between the Schuylkill and Delaware rivers, about
+a mile broad from bank to bank, and six miles from their junction. The
+Delaware is about a mile wide at Philadelphia, and ships of the largest
+tonnage can approach the wharf. The city contains many fine buildings of
+Schuylkill marble. The streets are well paved, and have broad _trottoirs_
+of hard red brick. The police regulations are excellent, and cleanliness
+is much attended to, the kennels being washed daily during the summer
+months, with water from the reservoirs. The markets, or shambles, extend
+half-a-mile in length, from the wharf up Market-street, in six divisions.
+In addition to the shambles, farmers' waggons, loaded with every kind of
+country produce for sale, line the street.
+
+There are five banking establishments in the city: the Bank of North
+America, the United States Bank, the Bank of Pennsylvania, the Bank of
+Philadelphia, and the Farmers' Bank.
+
+The principal institutions are, the Franklin library, which contains
+upwards of 20,000 volumes. Strangers are admitted gratis, and are
+permitted to peruse any of the books. The Americans should adopt this
+practice in all their national exhibitions, and rather copy the liberality
+of the French than the sordid churlishness of the English, who compel
+foreigners to pay even for seeing the property of the nation. The other
+institutions are, the University of Pennsylvania, a College, Medical
+Theatre, College of Physicians, Philosophical Hall, Agricultural and
+Linnean Societies, Academy of Fine Arts, and the Cincinnati Society, which
+originated in an attempt to establish a sort of aristocracy. The members
+were at its formation the surviving officers of the revolution; they wear
+an eagle, suspended by a ribbon, which, at their death, they have
+appointed to be taken by their eldest sons. There are besides, the
+Academies of the Philadelphian Friends, and the German Lutherans; Sunday
+and Lancasterian schools; and, of course, divers Bible and Tract
+Societies, which are patronized by all the antiquated dames in the city,
+and superintended by the Methodist and Presbyterian parsons. The Methodist
+parsons of this country have the character of being men of gallantry; and
+indeed, from the many instances I have heard of their propensity in this
+way, from young Americans, I should be a very sceptic to doubt the fact.
+
+There are also St. George's, St. Patrick's, St. David's, and St. Andrew's
+Societies for the relief and colonization of British emigrants; a French
+and a German Emigrant Society, and several hospitals. There are two
+theatres and an amphitheatre. Peal's Museum contains a large collection,
+which is scientifically arranged; among other fossils is the perfect
+skeleton of a mammoth, found in a bed of marle in the state of New York.
+The length of this animal, from the bend of the tusks to the rump, was
+about twenty-seven feet, and the height and bulk proportionate.
+
+The navy-yard contains large quantities of timber, spars, and rigging,
+prepared for immediate use, as also warlike stores of every description.
+There is here, a ship of 140 guns, of large calibre, and a frigate. Both
+are housed completely, and in a condition to be launched in a few months,
+if necessary. They are constructed of the very best materials, and in the
+most durable and solid manner. There are now being constructed, seriatim,
+twenty-five ships of the line--one for every state in the Union. The
+government occasionally sells the smaller vessels of war to merchants, in
+order to increase the shipping, and to secure that those armed vessels
+which are afloat, may be in the finest possible condition. A corvette,
+completely equipped, was lately sold to his majesty the autocrat of the
+Russias; but was dismasted in a day or two after her departure from
+Charleston. She was taken in tow by the vessel of a New York merchant, and
+carried into the port of that city. The merchant refused any compensation
+from the Russian minister, although his vessel was, when she fell in with
+the wreck, proceeding to the Austral regions, and her putting about was
+greatly disadvantageous. The minister returned thanks publicly, on the
+part of his master, and expressed his majesty's sense of the invariable
+consideration and friendship with which his majesty's subjects are treated
+by the citizens of America. There appears to be a universal wish among the
+Americans to cultivate an alliance, offensive and defensive, with his
+majesty of Russia. The cry is, "all the Russians want is a fleet, and
+we'll lend them that." In fact, a deadly animosity pervades America
+towards Great Britain; and although it is not publicly confessed, for the
+Americans are too able politicians to do that, yet it is no less certain,
+that "_Delenda est Carthago_," is their motto. Let England look to it. Her
+power is great; but, if the fleets of America, France, and Russia, were to
+combine, and land on the shores of England hordes of Russians, and
+battalions of disciplined Frenchmen--if this were to be done, with the
+Irish people, instead of allies as they should be, her deadly enemies, her
+power is annihilated at a blow! For let it be remembered, that there is no
+rallying principle in the temperament of the mass of the English people;
+and that formerly one single victory,--the victory of Hastings, completely
+subjugated them. Hume, who was decidedly an impartial historian, is
+compelled to say of that conquest, "It would be difficult to find in all
+history a revolution more destructive, or attended with a more complete
+subjection of the ancient inhabitants. Contumely seems even to have been
+wantonly added to oppression; and the natives were universally reduced to
+such a state of meanness and poverty, that the English name became a term
+of reproach; and several generations elapsed before one family of Saxon
+pedigree was raised to any considerable honours, or could so much as
+obtain the rank of baron of the realm."--Yet the English people owe much
+to the ancestors of the aristocracy, who introduced among them the arts
+and refinements of civilization, and by their wisdom and disciplined
+valour have raised the country to that pitch of greatness, so justly
+termed "the envy of surrounding nations." I do not contend, that because a
+nation may have acquired the name of great, that therefore _the people_
+are more happy; but am rather inclined to think the contrary, for
+conquests are generally made and wealth is accumulated for the benefit of
+the few, and at the expense of the many.
+
+A law has been lately passed by the legislature of Pennsylvania, taxing
+wholesale and retail dealers in merchandize, excepting those importers of
+foreign goods who vend the articles in the form in which they are
+imported. This act classes the citizens according to their annual amount
+of sales, and taxes them in the same proportion. Those who effect sales to
+the amount of fifty thousand dollars, constitute the first class; of forty
+thousand dollars, the second class; of thirty thousand dollars, the third
+class; of twenty thousand dollars, the fourth class; of fifteen thousand
+dollars, the fifth class; of ten thousand dollars, the sixth class; of
+five thousand dollars, the seventh class; and all persons effecting sales
+not exceeding two thousand five hundred dollars, constitute the eighth
+class. The first class shall pay for license, annually, fifty dollars; the
+second class, forty dollars; the third class, thirty dollars; the fourth
+class, twenty-five dollars; the fifth class, twenty dollars; the sixth
+class, fifteen dollars; the seventh class, twelve dollars and fifty cents,
+and the eighth class ten dollars.
+
+Direct taxation has been found in all cases to be obnoxious, and this
+particular mode, I apprehend, is calculated to produce very pernicious
+effects. The laws of a republic should all tend to establish and support,
+as far as is practicable, the principle of equality, and any act that has
+a contrary tendency must be injurious to the community. Now this act draws
+a direct line of demarcation between citizens, in proportion to the extent
+of their dealings; and as in this country a man's importance is entirely
+estimated by his supposed wealth, the citizens of Pennsylvania can
+henceforth only claim a share of respectability, proportionate to the
+_class_ to which they belong. The west country ladies have shewn a great
+aptitude for forming "circles of society," and the promulgation of this
+law affords them a most powerful aid in establishing a _store-keeping
+aristocracy_.
+
+The large cities in America are by no means so lightly taxed as might be
+supposed from the cheapness of the government; the public works, public
+buildings, and police establishments, requiring adequate funds for their
+maintenance and support; however, the inhabitants have the consolation of
+knowing that this must gradually decrease, and that their money is laid
+out for their own advantage, and not for the purpose of pensioning off the
+mistresses and physicians of viceroys, as in Ireland.[23] Another thing is
+to be observed, that in addition to the _national_ debt, each state has a
+_private_ debt, which in many cases is tolerably large. These debts have
+been created by expenditures on roads, canals, and public buildings. The
+mode of taxation latterly adopted by the legislature is not popular, and
+many of the public prints have remonstrated against the system. "The
+Philadelphia Gazette," of the 24th Sept. 1830, makes the following
+remarks--"The subject of unequal and oppressive taxation deserves more
+attention than it has hitherto received from our citizens. The misery of
+England is occasioned less by the amount of revenue that is raised there,
+than by the manner in which it is raised. In Pennsylvania we are going on
+rapidly, making our state a second England in regard of debt and taxation.
+Our public debt is already 13,000,000 dollars; and before our canals and
+rail-roads shall be completed, it will probably amount to 18 or 20
+millions. The law imposing taxes of 10, 20, 30, 40 and 50 dollars on
+retailers, is not the only just subject of complaint. The _collateral
+inheritance_ tax is equally unjust. The tavern-keepers are besides to be
+taxed from 20 to 50 dollars each. Nor does the matter end here. At the
+next session of the legislature, it will, in all probability, be found
+necessary to lay on additional taxes: and when the principle of unjust
+taxation is once admitted in legislation, it is difficult to say how far
+it will be carried."
+
+Whilst staying at Philadelphia an account of the French revolution
+arrived, and the merchants, there and at New York, were in high spirits,
+thinking that war was inevitable. A war in Europe is always hailed with
+delight in America, as it opens a field for commercial enterprise, and
+gives employment to the shipping, of which at present they are much in
+need.
+
+During the long and ruinous war in Europe, the mercantile and shipping
+interests of the United States advanced with an unexampled degree of
+rapidity. The Americans were then the carriers of nearly all Europe, and
+scarcely any merchandize entered the ports of the belligerent powers, but
+in American bottoms. This unnatural state of prosperity could not last:
+peace was established, and from that era the decline of commerce in the
+United States may be dated. The merchants seem not to have calculated on
+this event's so soon taking place, or to have overrated the increase of
+prosperity and population in their own country, as up to that period, and
+for some years afterwards, there does appear to have been no relaxation of
+ship-building, and little diminution of mercantile speculations. At
+present the ship-owners are realizing little beyond the expenses of their
+vessels, and in many cases the bottoms are actually in debt. The frequent
+failures in the Atlantic cities, of late, are mainly to be attributed to
+unsuccessful ship speculations; and I am myself aware of more than one
+instance, where the freight was so extremely low, as to do little more
+than cover the expenditure of the voyage. On my return to Europe, while
+staying at Marseilles, twelve American vessels arrived in that port within
+the space of two months; and before my departure, nine of these returned
+to the United States with ballast (stones), and I believe only two with
+full cargos.
+
+In a national point of view, the difficulty of obtaining employment for
+the shipping of America may not have been so injurious as at first view
+it appears to be; on the contrary, I am of opinion that it has been
+advantageous. Whilst a profitable trade could with facility be carried on
+with and in Europe, the merchants seldom thought of extending their
+enterprises to any other parts of the world; but since the decline of that
+trade, communications have been opened with the East Indies, Africa, all
+the ports of the Mediterranean, and voyages to the Pacific, and to the
+Austral regions, are now of common occurrence. The museums in the Atlantic
+cities bear ample testimony to the enterprising character of the American
+merchants, which by their means are filled with all the curious and
+interesting productions of the East. This has encouraged a taste for
+scientific studies, and for travelling; which must ultimately tend to
+raise the nation to a degree of respectability little inferior to the
+oldest European state.
+
+FOOTNOTES:
+
+[23] An Irish viceroy lately paid his physician by conferring on him a
+baronetcy, and a pension of two hundred pounds a year, of the public
+money.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XI.
+
+
+Having sojourned for more than three weeks at Philadelphia, I departed for
+New York. The impressions made on my mind during that time were highly
+favourable to the Philadelphians and their city. It is the handsomest city
+in the Union; and the inhabitants, in sociability and politeness, have
+much the advantage of any other body of people with whom I came in
+contact.
+
+The steamer takes you up the Delaware river to Bordentown, in New Jersey,
+twenty-four miles from Philadelphia. The country at either side is in a
+high state of cultivation. It is interspersed with handsome country seats,
+and on the whole presents a most charming prospect. There is scarcely a
+single point passed up the windings of the Delaware, but presents a new
+and pleasing variety of landscape--luxuriant foliage--gently swelling
+hills, and fertile lawns; which last having been lately mown, were covered
+with a rich green sward most pleasing to the eye. The banks of the river
+at Bordentown are high, and the town, as seen from the water, has a pretty
+effect. Here a stage took us across New Jersey to Amboy. This is not a
+large town, nor can it ever be of much importance, being situated too near
+the cities of New York and Philadelphia. At Amboy we again took the
+steam-boat up the bay, and after a delightful sail of thirty miles,
+through scenery the most beautiful and magnificent, we arrived at New
+York.
+
+When I was at New York about fifteen months before, I was informed that
+the working classes were being organized into regular bodies, similar to
+the "union of trades" in England, for the purpose of retaining all
+political power in their own hands. This organization has taken place at
+the suggestion of Frances Wright, of whom I shall again have occasion to
+speak presently, and has succeeded to an astonishing extent. There are
+three or four different bodies of the "workies," as they call themselves
+familiarly, which vary somewhat from each other in their principles, and
+go different lengths in their attacks on the present institutions of
+society. There are those of them called "agrarians," who contend that
+there should be a law passed to prohibit individuals holding beyond a
+certain quantity of ground; and that at given intervals of time there
+should be an equal division of property throughout the land. This is the
+most ultra, and least numerous class; the absurdity of whose doctrines
+must ultimately destroy them as a body. Various handbills and placards may
+be seen posted about the city, calling meetings of these unions. Some of
+those handbills are of a most extraordinary character indeed. I shall
+here insert a copy of one, which I took off a wall, and have now in my
+possession. It may serve to illustrate the character of those clubs.
+
+THE CAUSE OF THE POOR.
+
+The Mechanics and other working men of the city of New York, and
+of _these_ such and such only as live by their own useful
+industry, who wish to retain all political power in their own
+hands;
+
+WHO ARE IN FAVOUR OF                 AND WHO ARE OPPOSED TO
+
+A just compensation for labour,      Banks and Bankers,
+
+Abolishing imprisonment for debt,    Auctions and Auctioneers,
+
+An efficient lien law,               Monopolies and
+
+A general system of education;       Monopolists of all descriptions,
+  including food, clothing
+  and instruction, equal for all,    Brokers,
+  at the public expense, _without
+  separation of children from_       Lawyers, and
+  _parents,_
+                                     Rich men for office, and to all
+Exemption from sale by execution,      those, either rich or poor,
+  of mechanics' tools and              who favour them,
+  implements sufficiently
+  extensive to enable them to        Exemption of Property from
+  carry on business:                   Taxation:
+
+
+Are invited to assemble at the Wooster-street Military Hall, on
+Thursday evening next, 16th Sept., at eight o'clock, to select by
+Ballot, from among the persons proposed on the 6th Instant,
+Candidates for Governor, Lieutenant-Governor, Senator, and a New
+Committee of Fifty, and to propose Candidates for Register, for
+Members of Congress, and for Assembly.
+
+By order of the Committee of Fifty.
+
+JOHN R. SOPER, _Chairman_. JOHN TUTHILL, _Secretary_.
+
+So far for the "Workies;" and now for Miss Wright. If I understand this
+lady's principles correctly, they are strictly Epicurean. She contends,
+that mankind have nothing whatever to do with any but this tangible
+world;--that the sole and only legitimate pursuit of man, is terrestrial
+happiness;--that looking forward to an ideal state of existence, diverts
+his attention from the pleasures of this life--destroys all real sympathy
+towards his fellow-creatures, and renders him callous to their sufferings.
+However different the _theories_ of other systems may be, she contends
+that the _practice_ of the world, in all ages and generations, shews that
+this is the _effect_ of their inculcation. These are alarming doctrines;
+and when this lady made her _debût_ in public, the journals contended that
+their absurdity was too gross to be of any injury to society, and that in
+a few months, if she continued lecturing, it would be to empty benches.
+
+The editor of "The New York Courier and Enquirer" and she have been in
+constant enmity, and have never failed denouncing each other when
+opportunity offered. Miss Wright sailed from New York for France, where
+she still remains, in the month of July, 1830; and previous to her
+departure delivered an address, on which "the New York Enquirer" makes the
+following observations:--
+
+"The parting address of Miss Wright at the Bowery Theatre, on Wednesday
+evening, was a singular _melange_ of politics and impiety--eloquence and
+irreligion--bold invective, and electioneering slang. The theatre was very
+much crowded, probably three thousand persons being present; and what was
+the most surprising circumstance of the whole, is the fact, that about
+_one half of the audience were females--respectable females_.
+
+"When Fanny first made her appearance in this city as a lecturer on the
+'new order of things,' she was very little visited by respectable females.
+At her first lecture in the Park Theatre, about half a dozen appeared; but
+these soon left the house. From that period till the present, we had not
+heard her speak in public; but her doctrines, and opinions, and
+philosophy, appear to have made much greater progress in the city than we
+ever dreamt of. Her fervid eloquence--her fine action--her _soprano-toned_
+voice--her bold and daring attacks upon all the present systems of
+society--and particularly upon priests, politicians, bankers, and
+aristocrats as she calls them, have raised a party around her of
+considerable magnitude, and of much fervour and enthusiasm."
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+"The present state of things in this city is, to say the least of it,
+very singular. A bold and eloquent woman lays siege to the very
+foundations of society--inflames and excites the public mind--declaims
+with vehemence against every thing religious and orderly, and directs the
+whole of her movements to accomplish the election of a ticket next fall,
+under the title of the 'working-man's ticket.'[24] She avows that her
+object is a thorough and radical reform and change in every relation of
+life--even the dearest and most sacred. Father, mother, husband, wife,
+son, and daughter, in all their delicate and endearing relationships, are
+to be swept away equally with clergymen, churches, banks, parties, and
+benevolent societies. Hundreds and hundreds of respectable families, by
+frequenting her lectures, give countenance and currency to these startling
+principles and doctrines. Nearly the whole newspaper press of the city
+maintain a death-like silence, while the great Red Harlot of Infidelity is
+madly and triumphantly stalking over the city, under the mantle of
+'working-men,' and making _rapid progress_ in her work of ruin. If a
+solitary newspaper raise a word in favour of public virtue and private
+morals, in defence of the rights, liberties, and property of the
+community, it is denounced with open bitterness by some, and secretly
+stabbed at by them who wish to pass for good citizens. Miss Wright says
+she leaves the city soon. This is a mere _ruse_ to call her followers
+around her. The effect of her lectures is already boasted of by her
+followers. 'Two years ago,' say they,--'_twenty persons_ could scarcely be
+found in New York who would openly avow infidelity--now we have _twenty
+thousand_.--Is not that something?'
+
+"We say it is something--something that will make the whole city think."
+
+On the day of my departure for Europe, is was announced to the merchants
+of New York, that the West India ports were opened to American vessels.
+
+This is a heavy blow to the interests of the British colonies; and it does
+not appear that even Great Britain _herself_ has received any equivalent
+for inflicting so serious an injury on a portion of the empire by no means
+unimportant. The Canadians and Nova Scotians found a market for their
+surplus produce in the West Indies, for which they took in return the
+productions of these islands--thus a reciprocal advantage was derived to
+the sister colonies. But now, from the proximity of the West Indies to the
+Atlantic cities of the United States, American produce will be poured into
+these markets, for which, in return, little else than specie will be
+brought back to the ports of the Republic.
+
+It may be said, that an equivalent has been obtained by the removal of
+restrictions hitherto laid on British shipping. This I deny is any thing
+like an equivalent, as the trade with America is carried on almost
+exclusively in American bottoms. I particularly noted at New Orleans,
+Baltimore, Philadelphia, and New York, the paucity of British vessels in
+those ports; and ascertained that it was the practice among American
+merchants, who it must be observed are nearly all extensive ship-owners,
+to withhold cargos, even at some inconvenience, from foreign vessels, and
+await the arrival of those of their own country. I do not positively
+assert that the ships of _any other_ nation are preferred to those of
+England; but, as far as my personal observations on that point have gone,
+I am strongly inclined to think that such is the fact.
+
+The mercantile and shipping interests of Great Britain must continue to
+decline, if the government suffers itself continually to be cajoled into
+measures of this nature, and effects treaties the advantages of which
+appear to be all on one side, and in lieu of its concessions receives no
+just equivalent; unless a little empty praise for "liberal policy" and
+"generosity," can be so termed. I am well aware that it may have been of
+some small advantage to the West Indies to be enabled to obtain their
+supplies from the United States; but with reference to the policy of the
+measure, I speak only of the empire at large. Nearly all the Canadians
+with whom I conversed, freely acknowledged that they have not shaken off
+the yoke of England, only because they enjoyed some advantages by their
+connexion with her: but as these are diminished, the ties become loosened,
+and at length will be found too weak to hold them any longer. Disputes
+have already arisen between the people and the government relative to
+church lands, which appropriations they contend are unjust and dishonest.
+
+No doubt the question of tariff duties on the raw material imported into
+England, is one of great delicacy as connected with the manufacturing
+interests of the country; yet it does appear to me, that a small duty
+might without injury be imposed on American cottons _imported in American
+bottoms_. This would afford considerable encouragement to the shipping of
+Great Britain and her colonies, and could by no means be injurious to the
+manufacturing interests. The cottons of the Levant have been latterly
+increasing in quantity, and a measure of this nature would be likely to
+promote their further and rapid increase; which is desirable, as it would
+leave us less dependent on America, than we now are, for the raw material.
+The shipping of America is not held by the cotton-growing states; and
+although the nationality of the southerns is no doubt great, yet their
+love of self-interest is much greater, and would always preponderate in
+their choice of vessels. It would be even better, if found necessary, to
+make some arrangement in the shape of draw-back, than that a nation which
+has imposed a duty on our manufactured goods, almost amounting to a
+prohibition, should reap so much advantage from our system of "liberal and
+generous" policy. I shall conclude these _rambling_ sketches by
+observing, that there are two things eminently remarkable in America: the
+one is, that every American from the highest to the lowest, thinks the
+Republican form of government _the best;_ and the other, that the
+seditious and rebellious of all countries become there the most peaceable
+and contented citizens.
+
+We sailed from New York on the 1st of October, 1830. The monotony of a sea
+voyage, with unscientific people, is tiresome beyond description. The
+journal of a single day is the history of a month. You rise in the
+morning, and having performed the necessary ablutions, mount on
+deck,--"Well Captain, how does she head?"--"South-east by east"--(our
+course is east by south).--"Bad, bad, Captain--two points off." You then
+promenade the quarter-deck, until the black steward arrests your
+progress--grins in your face, and announces breakfast. Down you go, and
+fall foul of ham, beef, _pommes de terre frites_, jonny-cakes, and _café
+sans lait;_ and generally, in despite of bad cooking and occasional
+lee-lurches, contrive to eat an enormous meal. Breakfast being despatched,
+you again go on deck--promenade--gaze on the clouds--then read a little,
+if perchance you have books with you--lean over the gunwale, watching the
+waves and the motion of the vessel; but the eternal water, clouds, and
+sky--sky, clouds, and water, produce a listlessness that nothing can
+overcome. In the Atlantic, a ship in sight is an object which arouses the
+attention of all on board--to speak one is an aera, and furnishes to the
+captain and mates a subject for the day's conversation. Thus situated, an
+occasional spell of squally weather is by no means uninteresting:--the
+lowering aspect of the sky--the foaming surges, which come rolling on,
+threatening to overwhelm the tall ship, and bury her in the fathomless
+abyss of the ocean--the laugh of the gallant tars, when a sea sweeps the
+deck and drenches them to the skin--all these incidents, united, rather
+amuse the voyager, and tend to dispel the inanity with which he is
+afflicted. During these periods, I have been for hours watching the
+motions of the "stormy petrel" (_procellaria pelagica_), called by
+sailors, "mother Carey's chickens." These birds are seldom seen in calm
+weather, but appear to follow the gale, and when it blows most heavily
+they are seen in greatest numbers. The colour is brown and white; the size
+about that of the swallow, whose motions oh the wing they resemble. They
+skim over the surface of the roughest sea, gliding up and down the
+undulations with astonishing swiftness. When they observe their prey, they
+descend flutteringly, and place the feet and the tips of the wings on the
+surface of the water. In this position I have seen many of them rest for
+five or six seconds, until they had completed the capture. The petrel is
+to be seen in all parts of the Atlantic, no matter how distant from land;
+and the oldest seaman with whom I have conversed on the subject, never saw
+one of them rest. Humboldt says, that in the Northern Deserta, the
+petrels hide in rabbit burrows.
+
+A few days' sail brought us into the "Gulf stream," the influence of which
+is felt as high as the 43° north latitude. We saw a considerable quantity
+of _fucus natans_, or gulf weed, but it generally was so far from the
+vessel, that I could not contrive to procure a sprig. Mr. Luccock, in his
+Notes on Brazil, says, that "if a nodule of this weed, taken fresh from
+the water at night, is hung up in a small cabin, it emits phosphorescent
+light enough to render objects visible." He describes the leaves of this
+plant as springing from the joints of the branches, oblong, indented at
+the edges, about an inch and a half long, and a quarter of an inch broad.
+Humboldt's description is somewhat different: he calls it the "vine-leaved
+fucus;" says, "the leaves are circular, of a _tender_ green, and indented
+at the edges, stem brown, and three inches long."--What I saw of this
+weed rather agrees with that described by Humboldt--the leaves were
+shaped like the vine leaf, and of a rusty-green colour. That portion of
+the Atlantic between the 22d and 34th parallels of latitude, and 26th and
+58th meridians of longitude, is generally covered with fuci, and is termed
+by the Portuguese, _mar do sargasso_, or grassy sea. It was supposed by
+many, from the large quantities of this weed seen in the Gulf stream, that
+it grew on the Florida rocks, and by the influence and extension of the
+current, was detached and carried into this part of the Atlantic. However,
+this position is not tenable, as a single branch of fucus has never been
+found on the Florida reef. Humboldt, and other scientific men, are of
+opinion that this weed vegetates at the bottom of the ocean--that being
+detached from its root, it rises to the surface; and that such portion of
+it as is found in the stream, is drawn thither by the sweeping of the
+current along the edge of the weedy sea. Moreover, the fuci that are
+found in the northern extremity of the Florida stream are generally
+decayed, while those which are seen in the southern extremity appear quite
+fresh--this difference would not exist if they emanated from the Gulf.
+
+We stood to the north of the Azores, with rather unfavourable winds, and
+at length came between the coast of Africa and Cape St. Vincent. Here we
+had a dead calm for four entire days. The sky was perfectly cloudless, and
+the surface of the ocean was like oil. Not being able to do better, we got
+out the boat and went turtle fishing, or rather catching, in company with
+a very fine shark, which thought proper to attend us during our excursion.
+In such weather the turtles come to the surface of the water to sleep and
+enjoy the solar heat, and if you can approach without waking them, they
+fall an easy prey, being rendered incapable of resistance by their shelly
+armour. We took six. Attached to the breast of one was a remora, or
+"sucking fish." The length of this animal is from six to eight
+inches--colour blackish--body, scaleless and oily--head rather flat, on
+the back of which is the sucker, which consists of a narrow oval-shaped
+margin with several transverse projections, and ten curved rays extending
+towards the centre, but not meeting. The Indians of Jamaica and Cuba
+employed this fish as falconers do hawks. In calm weather, they carried
+out those which they had kept and fed for the purpose, in their canoes,
+and when they had got to a sufficient distance, attached the remora to the
+head of the canoe by a strong line of considerable length. When the remora
+perceives a fish, which he can do at a considerable distance, he darts
+away with astonishing rapidity, and fastens upon it. The Indian lets go
+the line, to which a buoy is attached to mark the course the remora has
+taken, and follows in his canoe until he thinks the game is exhausted; he
+then draws it gradually in, the remora still adhering to his prey. Oviedo
+says, "I have known a turtle caught by this method, of a bulk and weight
+which no single man could support."
+
+For four days we were anxiously watching for some indications of a breeze,
+but were so frequently deceived with "cat's paws," and the occasional
+slight flickering of the dog vane, that we sank into listless resignation.
+At length our canvass filled, and we soon came within sight of the Straits
+of Gibraltar. On our left was the coast of Spain, with its vineyards and
+white villages; and on our right lay the sterile hills of Barbary.
+Opposite Cape Trafalgar is Cape Spartel, a bold promontory, on the west
+side of which is a range of basaltic pillars. The entrance to the
+Mediterranean by the Straits, when the wind is unfavourable, is extremely
+difficult; but to pass out is almost impossible, the current continually
+setting in through the centre of the passage. Hence, onwards, the sail was
+extremely pleasant, being within sight of the Spanish coast, and the
+Islands of Yvica, Majorca, and Minorca, successively, until we reached
+the Gulf of Lyons. When the northerly wind blows, which, in Provence, is
+termed the _mistral_, the waves roll against the coast of Provence, and
+the recoil produces that ugly chopping sea for which this gulf is
+renowned. In the Mediterranean, even in the calmest weather, a light
+pleasant breeze springs up after sunset; this and the cloudless sky, and
+unobscured brilliancy of the stars, are attractions sufficient to allure
+the most somnolent and unromantic mortal to remain on deck.
+
+The molusca, or oceanic insect, which emits a phosphorescent light,
+appeared here in vast quantities, which induced me to try experiments. I
+took a piece of black crape, and having folded it several times, poured
+some sea water taken fresh in a bucket, upon it: the water in the bucket,
+when agitated by the hand, gave out sparkling light. When the crape was
+thoroughly saturated with water, I took it to a dark part of the cabin,
+when it seemed to be studded with small sparkling stars; but more of the
+animals I could not then discern. Next day I put some water in a glass
+tumbler, and having exposed it to a strong solar light, with the help of a
+magnifying glass was enabled distinctly to discern the moluscae. When
+magnified, they appeared about the size of a pin's head, of a yellowish
+brown colour, rather oval-shaped, and having tentaculae. The medusa is a
+genus of molusca; and I think M. le Seur told me he reckons forty-three or
+forty-four species of that genus.
+
+We crossed the Gulf of Lyons, and came within the road of Marseilles,
+where we were taken charge of by a pilot. When we reached the mouth of the
+basin, a boat came alongside of us, and a man handed up a piece of wood,
+and said, "Mettez sur cela le nom du capitaine et du batiment;"--we were
+to perform quarantine. Whoever has performed quarantine can commiserate
+our condition. No one can quit the quarantine ground, or rather the space
+in the harbour alloted to vessels performing quarantine. If it be
+necessary to send any papers from the ship on shore, they are taken with a
+forceps and plunged into vinegar. If the sails of any other vessel touch
+those of one in quarantine, she too must undergo several days' probation.
+Our time was five days; but as we had clean bills of health, and had lost
+none of our crew on the passage, we were allowed to count the day of our
+entering and the day of our going out of quarantine. The usual ceremonies
+being performed, I again stepped on European ground, and felt myself at
+home.
+
+FOOTNOTES:
+
+[24] The "Education ticket," that of the "workies," carried every thing
+before it in New York and the adjoining states, at the election of
+members of congress, &c.
+
+
+
+
+APPENDIX.
+
+
+
+NEW CENSUS OF THE UNITED STATES.
+
+An abstract of a "careful revision of the enumeration of the United States
+for the years 1790, 1800, 1810, 1820, and 1830," compiled at the
+Department of State, agreeably to law; and an ABSTRACT from the Aggregate
+Returns of the several Marshals of the United States of the "Fifth
+Census."
+
+STATES.             1790.     1800.     1810.     1820.      1830.
+Maine              96,540   151,719   228,705   298,335    399,463
+New Hampshire     141,899   183,762   214,360   244,161    269,533
+Massachusetts     378,717   423,243   472,040   523,287    610,014
+Rhode Island       69,110    69,122    77,031    83,059     97,210
+Connecticut       258,141   231,002   262,042   275,202    297,011
+Vermont            85,416   154,465   217,713   233,764    280,679
+New York          340,120   586,756   959,049 1,372,812  1,913,508
+New Jersey        184,139   211,949   245,555   277,575    320,778
+Pennsylvania      434,373   602,365   810,091 1,049,458  1,347,672
+Delaware           59,096    64,273    72,674    72,749     76,739
+Maryland          319,728   341,548   380,546   407,350    446,913
+D. Columbia           --     14,093    24,023    33,039     39,588
+Virginia          748,308   880,200   974,622 1,065,379  1,211,266
+N. Carolina       393,751   478,103   555,500   638,829    738,470
+S. Carolina       249,073   345,591   415,115   502,741    581,458
+Georgia            82,548   162,101   252,433   340,987    516,504
+Kentucky           73,077   220,955   406,511   564,317    688,844
+Tennessee          35,791   105,602   231,727   422,813    684,822
+Ohio                  --     45,365   230,760   581,434    937,679
+Indiana               --      4,875    24,520   147,178    341,582
+Mississippi           --      8,850    40,352    75,448    136,806
+Illinois              --        --     12,233    55,211    157,575
+Louisiana             --        --     76,556   153,407    215,791
+Missouri              --        --     20,845    66,586    140,084
+Alabama               --        --        --    127,902    309,206
+Michigan              --        --      4,762     8,896     31,123
+Arkansas              --        --        --     14,273     30,383
+Florida               --        --        --        --      34,725
+                3,929,827 5,305,925 7,289,314 9,638,131 12,856,437
+
+
+INCREASE FROM 1820 TO 1830.
+
+
+                   Per Cent.                       Per Cent.
+Maine                 33,398         S. Carolina      15,657
+N. Hampshire          10,391         Georgia          51,472
+Massachusetts         16,575         Kentucky         22,066
+Rhode Island          17,157         Tennessee        62,044
+Connecticut            8,151         Ohio             61,998
+Vermont               19,005         Indiana         132,087
+New York              39,386         Mississippi      81,032
+New Jersey            15,564         Illinois        185,406
+Pennsylvania          25,416         Louisiana        40,665
+Delaware               5,487         Missouri        110,380
+Maryland               9,712         Alabama         141,574
+D. Columbia           20,639         Michigan        250,001
+Virginia              13,069         Arkansas        113,273
+N. Carolina           15,592         Florida              --
+          Average                       32,392
+
+
+
+
+EXTRACTS
+
+FROM
+
+"THE CHEROKEE PHOENIX,"
+
+OF JULY 31, 1830.
+
+_The following is part of a Letter written by a Creek Chief, from the
+Arkansas territory._
+
+"The son of General M'Intosh, (an Indian chief), with the M'Intosh party,
+held a treaty with the government, and were induced, by promises, to
+remove to Arkansas. They were promised 'a home for ever,' if they would
+select one, and that bounds should be marked off to them. This has not
+been done. They were assured that they should draw a proportionate part of
+the annuity due to the Creek nation every year. They have planted corn
+three seasons--yet they have never drawn one cent of any annuity due to
+them! Why is this? They were promised blankets, guns, ammunition, traps,
+kettles, and a _wheelwright_. They have drawn some few of each class of
+articles, and only a few--they have no wheelwright. They were poor;--but
+above this, they were promised pay for the improvements abandoned by them
+in the old nation. This they have not received. They were further assured
+that they should receive, upon their arrival on Arkansas, _thirty dollars_
+per head for each emigrant. This they have not received. But the acting
+sub-agent, in the spring 1829, finding their wants very pressing (indeed
+many of them were in a famishing condition), gave to each one his due
+bill, in the name of the agent, for the amount of bounty due them, and
+took their receipts for the amount, as vouchers for the agent, to settle
+his account by with the government. The consequence was, that the Indians,
+not regarding paper as of any real value, would go to the traders, and
+sell the due bills at what they could get for them. And the traders having
+no confidence in the promises of the government through its agents, united
+with the hazard of delay at all events, would not give the real value of
+the amount promised by the due bills. If the Indians attempted to trade
+them to the whites for cattle, or any thing which they stood in need of,
+the consequence was, that they were compelled to make a discount upon
+them. Not finding them worth as many dollars as they purported to be for,
+they were willing to let them go upon any terms, rather than keep them in
+their possession. The due bills amounted, in all, to about _twenty-one
+thousand dollars_, which due bills are now in the hands of the original
+holders, or the purchasers, but not lifted by the agent according to his
+promise. (Is not the government bound by the acts of its agent or
+attorney?). It is but fair to estimate the loss of the Indians at one
+third of the sum above stated, and this loss owing entirely to the
+government, by its agent's withholding the fulfilment of its contract with
+the M'Intosh party.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+"Mr. Joseph Brearly was left here by his father, the agent, in charge of
+his affairs, and being apprised of a party of _emigrants_ about to arrive,
+was making preparations to obtain the provisions necessary to subsist them
+for one year; and for that purpose had advertised to supply six thousand
+bushels of corn. The day came for closing the contract, when Colonel
+Arbuckle, commanding Cantonment Gibson, handed in a bid, in the name of
+the Creek nation, to furnish the amount of corn required at _one dollar
+and twelve cents_ per bushel; the next lowest bid to his was _one dollar
+and fifty cents_; so that Colonel Arbuckle saved the government 2,280
+dollars.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+"Mr. Blake, the sub-agent sent by Colonel Crowell, had superseded Mr.
+Brearly, and was engaged in giving his receipts for the corn delivered
+under the contract. A speculation was presented; and as the poor Indians
+were to be the victims of rapacity, why, it was all very well. The
+aforesaid Major Love, to secure the speculation, repaired to St. Louis,
+with _letters of credit_ from Mr. Blake, the sub-agent of Colonel Crowell,
+and purchased several thousand dollars' worth of merchandize, and so soon
+as he could reach the Creek agency, commenced purchasing the corn receipts
+issued by the sub-agent. It is reasonable to suppose that the goods were
+sold, on an average, at two hundred per centum above cost and carriage;
+and by this means the Indians would get about one third of the value of
+their corn at the contract price!--they offered to let the receipts go at
+twenty-five per cent. discount, if they could only obtain cash for them.
+
+"The United States owe the Creeks money--they have paid them none in three
+years--the money has been appropriated by congress. It is withheld by the
+agents. The Indians are destitute of almost every comfort for the want of
+what is due to them. If it is longer withheld from them, it can only be
+so, upon the grounds that the poor Indian, who is unable to compel the
+United States to a compliance with solemn treaties, must linger out a
+miserable degraded existence, while those who have power to extend to him
+the measure of justice, will be left in the _full_ possession of _all_ the
+_complacency_ arising from the solemn _assurance_, that they are either
+the _stupid_ or _guilty_ authors of his degradation and misery.
+
+"TAH-LOHN-TUS-KY.
+
+"P.S. The Creeks have sent frequent memorials, praying relief from the War
+Department; also a delegation, but can obtain no relief!!"
+
+
+
+
+_Extract from a Communication made by a Cherokee Chief._
+
+
+"A company of whites was in this neighbourhood, with forged notes and
+false accounts to a very considerable amount upon the Indians, and
+forcibly drove off the property of several families. This, Sir, is the
+cause of our misery, poverty, and degradation, for which we have been so
+much reproached. This is what makes us _poor devils_. If we fail to make
+good crops, some of the white neighbours must starve, for many of them are
+dependent upon us for support, either by fair or foul means. Some of the
+poor creatures are now travelling among us, almost starved, begging for
+something to eat--they are actually worse than Indians. If they can't get
+by begging, they steal. To make us clear of these evils, and make us happy
+for ever, the unabating avarice of some of the Georgians, by their
+repeated acts of cruelty, point us to homes in the west--but as long as we
+have a pony or a hog to spare them, we will never go, and not then. This
+land is heaven's gift to us--it is the birthright of our fathers: as long
+as these mountains lift their lofty summits to heaven, and these beautiful
+rivers roll their tides to the mighty ocean, so long we will remain. May
+heaven pity and save our distressed country!
+
+"VALLEY TOWNS."
+
+
+The following Extracts may serve to show the state of the country to which
+the Indians are compelled to emigrate:
+
+[FROM THE KENTUCKY INTELLIGENCER.]
+
+_Extract of a Letter, dated Prairie du Chien._
+
+"January 15, 1830.
+
+"There is a prospect, I think, that the Indian department in this part of
+the country will soon require efficient officers. There is little doubt
+that there will be a general and sanguinary war among the Indians in the
+spring. The outrages of the Sauks and Foxes, can be endured no longer.
+Within a short time, they have cut off the head of a young Munomonee
+Indian, at the mouth of Winconscin river--killed a Winnebago woman and
+boy, of the family of Dekaree, and a Sioux called Dixon. The whole Sioux
+nation have made arrangements for a general and simultaneous attack on the
+Foxes; the Winnebagoes, and probably the Munomonees will join them."
+
+
+"Little Rock, Ark. Ter. Feb. 5.
+
+"_Murderous Battle._--A gentleman who arrived here yesterday, direct from
+the Western Creek agency, informs us that a war party of Osages returned
+just before he left the agency, from a successful expedition against the
+Pawnee Indians. He was informed by one of the chiefs, that the party
+seized a Pawnee village, high up on the Arkansas, and had surrounded it
+before the inmates were apprised of their approach. At first the Pawnees
+showed a disposition to resist; but finding themselves greatly outnumbered
+by their assailants, soon sallied forth from their village, and took
+refuge on the margin of a lake, where they again made a stand. Here they
+were again hemmed in by the Osages, who throwing away their guns, fell
+upon them with their knives and tomahawks, and did not cease the work of
+butchery as long as any remained to resist them. Not one escaped. All were
+slain, save a few who were taken prisoners, and who are perhaps destined
+to suffer a more cruel death than those who were butchered on the spot.
+Our informant did not learn what number of Pawnees were killed, but
+understood that the Osages brought in sixty or seventy scalps, besides
+several prisoners.
+
+"We also learn, that the Osages are so much elated with this victory, that
+another war party were preparing to go on an expedition against some
+Choctaws who reside on Red river, with whom they have been at variance for
+some time past."
+
+
+_Extract of a Letter from an Officer of the Army, dated Prairie du Chien._
+
+[FROM THE NEW YORK COM. ADVERTIZER.]
+
+"May 6, 1830.
+
+"_Indian Hostilities._--When coming down the Mississippi, on the raft of
+timber, a war party of Sioux came to me and landed on the raft, but did
+not offer any violence. They were seventy strong, and well armed; and when
+they arrived at the Prairie, they were joined by thirty Menominees, and
+then proceeded down the river in pursuit of the Sauks and Foxes, who lay
+below. This morning they all returned, and reported that they had killed
+ten of the Foxes and two squaws. I saw all the scalps and other trophies
+which they had taken; such as canoes, tomahawks, knives, guns, war clubs,
+spears, &c. A paddle was raised by them in the air, on which was strung
+the head of a squaw and the scalps. They killed the head chief of the Fox
+nation, and took from them all the treaties which the nation had made
+since 1815. I saw them, and read such as I wished. One Sioux killed, and
+three wounded, was all the loss of the northern party. The Winnebagoes
+have joined with the Sioux and Menominees, and the Potawatomies have
+joined with the Sauks and Foxes. We shall have a great battle in a day or
+two."
+
+
+
+***END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK A RAMBLE OF SIX THOUSAND MILES
+THROUGH THE UNITED STATES OF AMERICA***
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+<title>The Project Gutenberg eBook of A Ramble of Six Thousand Miles through the United States of America, by S. A. Ferrall</title>
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+<body>
+<h1>The Project Gutenberg eBook, A Ramble of Six Thousand Miles through the
+United States of America, by S. A. Ferrall</h1>
+<pre class="gut">
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at <a href = "https://www.gutenberg.org">www.gutenberg.org</a></pre>
+<p>Title: A Ramble of Six Thousand Miles through the United States of America</p>
+<p>Author: S. A. Ferrall</p>
+<p>Release Date: March 26, 2004  [eBook #11725]</p>
+<p>Language: English</p>
+<p>Character set encoding: iso-8859-1</p>
+<p>***START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK A RAMBLE OF SIX THOUSAND MILES THROUGH THE UNITED STATES OF AMERICA***</p>
+<br>
+<br>
+<center><b>E-text prepared by Project Gutenberg Distributed Proofreaders</b></center>
+<br>
+<br>
+<hr class="full" noshade>
+<br>
+<br>
+<a name="Page_-11"></a><a name="Page_-12"></a>
+<br>
+
+<p><a name="Page_-10"></a>
+<a name="image-1"><!-- Image 1 --></a>
+<center>
+<img src="001.jpg" height="1419" width="600"
+alt=" <i>Fac-simile of the first two Paragraphs of the Leading
+Article in the &quot;CHEROKEE PHOENIX&quot; of July 31, 1830</i>">
+</center>
+<h5><i>Fac-simile of the first two Paragraphs of the Leading
+Article in the &quot;CHEROKEE PHOENIX&quot; of July 31, 1830</i></h5>
+
+<br>
+<hr style="width: 65%;">
+<br>
+
+<h1><a name="Page_-9"></a>A RAMBLE OF SIX THOUSAND MILES THROUGH THE UNITED STATES OF AMERICA.</h1>
+
+<h2>BY S. A. FERRALL, ESQ.</h2>
+
+<a name="image-2"><!-- Image 2 --></a>
+<center>
+<img src="002.jpg" height="195" width="200"
+alt="Title Page Illustration">
+</center>
+
+<h3>LONDON</h3>
+
+<h4>1832</h4>
+<a name="Page_-8"></a>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;">
+<a name="PREFACE"></a><h2><a name="Page_-7"></a>PREFACE.</h2>
+
+<p>The few sketches contained in this small volume were not originally
+intended for publication&mdash;they were written solely for the amusement of my
+immediate acquaintances, and were forwarded to Europe in the shape of
+letters. Subsequent considerations have induced me to publish them; and if
+they be found to contain remarks on some subjects, which other travellers
+in America have passed over unnoticed, the end that I have in view will be
+fully answered.</p><a name="Page_-6"></a>
+
+<p>Although I remained in the seaboard cities sufficiently long to have
+collected much information; yet knowing that the statistics of those
+places had been so often and so ably set before the public, I felt no
+inclination to trouble my friends with their repetition.</p>
+
+<p>In Europe, the name of America is so associated with the idea of
+emigration, that to announce an intention of crossing the Atlantic, rouses
+the interfering propensity of friends and acquaintances, and produces such
+a torrent of queries and remonstrances, as will require a considerable
+share of moral courage to listen to and resist. All are on the tiptoe of
+expectation, to hear what the inducements can possibly be for travelling
+in America. America!! every one exclaims&mdash;what can you possibly see there?
+A country like America&mdash;little <a name="Page_-5"></a>better than a mere forest&mdash;the inhabitants
+notoriously far behind Europeans in refinement&mdash;filled with wild Indians,
+rattle-snakes, bears, and backwoodsmen; ferocious hogs and ugly negros;
+and every other species of noxious and terrific animal!</p>
+
+<p>Without, however, any definite scientific object, or indeed any motive
+much more important than a love of novelty, I determined on visiting
+America; within whose wide extent all the elements of society, civilized
+and uncivilized, were to be found&mdash;where the great city could be traced to
+the infant town&mdash;where villages dwindle into scattered farms&mdash;and these to
+the log-house of the solitary backwoodsman, and the temporary wig-wam of
+the wandering Pawnee.</p>
+
+<p>I have refrained nearly altogether from touching on the domestic habits
+<a name="Page_-4"></a>and manners of the Americans, because they have been treated of by
+Captain Hall and others; and as the Americans always allowed me to act as
+I thought proper, and even to laugh at such of their habits as I thought
+singular, I am by no means inclined to take exception to them.</p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;">
+<a name="CONTENTS"></a><h2><a name="Page_-3"></a>CONTENTS</h2>
+
+<h4>
+<!-- Autogenerated TOC. Modify or delete as required. -->
+<a href="#PREFACE"><b>PREFACE</b></a><br>
+<a href="#CHAPTER_I"><b>CHAPTER I</b></a><br>
+Sail for New York in an American vessel&mdash;the crew&mdash;ostentation of the
+Captain&mdash;a heavy gale&mdash;soundings&mdash;icebergs&mdash;bay of New York&mdash;Negros and
+Negresses&mdash;White Ladies&mdash;climate&mdash;fires&mdash;vagrant pigs&mdash;Frances
+Wright&mdash;Match between an Indian canoe and a skiff
+<br>
+<a href="#CHAPTER_II"><b>CHAPTER II</b></a><br>
+Depart for Albany&mdash;the Hudson&mdash;Albany&mdash;Cohoe's Falls&mdash;Rome&mdash;the Little
+Falls&mdash;forest of charred trees&mdash;&quot;stilly night&quot; in a swamp&mdash;fire
+fly&mdash;Rochester&mdash;Falls of Gennessee&mdash;Sam. Patch&mdash;an eccentric
+character&mdash;Falls of Niagara&mdash;the Tuscarora Indians&mdash;Buffalo&mdash;Lake
+Erie&mdash;the Iroquois&mdash;the Wyandots&mdash;death of Seneca John, and its
+consequences&mdash;ague fever&mdash;Wyandot prairie&mdash;the Delawares' mode of dealing
+with the Indians&mdash;the transporting of Negros to Canada
+<br>
+<a href="#CHAPTER_III"><b>CHAPTER III</b></a><br><a name="Page_-2"></a>
+Arrive at Marion&mdash;divorces&mdash;woodlands&mdash;Columbus&mdash;land offices&mdash;population,
+&amp;c. Shaking Quakers&mdash;kidnapping free Negros&mdash;Cincinnati&mdash;the farmers of
+Ohio&mdash;a corn-husking frolic&mdash;qualifications necessary to Senators,
+Legislators, and Electors&mdash;a camp-meeting&mdash;militia officers'
+muster&mdash;Presbyterian parsons&mdash;price of land, cattle, &amp;c.&mdash;fever and ague
+<br>
+<a href="#CHAPTER_IV"><b>CHAPTER IV</b></a><br>
+Set out for New Harmony&mdash;the roads&mdash;a backwoodsman&mdash;the
+journey&mdash;peaches&mdash;casualties&mdash;travelling&mdash;New Harmony&mdash;M. Le
+Seur&mdash;barter&mdash;excursion down the Wabash&mdash;the co-operative
+community&mdash;Robert Owen
+<br>
+<a href="#CHAPTER_V"><b>CHAPTER V</b></a><br>
+Depart for St. Louis&mdash;Albion&mdash;the late Messrs. Birkbeck and
+Flowers&mdash;Hardgrove's prairie&mdash;the roads&mdash;the Grand prairie&mdash;prairie
+wolf&mdash;mode of training dogs&mdash;Elliott's inn&mdash;inhabitants of
+Illinois&mdash;ablutions&mdash;coal&mdash;soil and produce&mdash;the American Bottom&mdash;St
+Louis&mdash;monopolies&mdash;Fur companies&mdash;incivility of a certain Major&mdash;trapping
+expedition&mdash;trade <a name="Page_-1"></a>with Santa F&eacute;&mdash;lead mines&mdash;Carondalot&mdash;Jefferson
+barracks&mdash;discipline&mdash;visit to a slave-holder&mdash;the Ioway hostages&mdash;Indian
+investigation&mdash;character of the Indians.
+<br>
+<a href="#CHAPTER_VI"><b>CHAPTER VI</b></a><br>
+Leave St. Louis&mdash;Indian mounds&mdash;remains of ancient fortifications&mdash;burial
+caverns&mdash;mummies&mdash;Flint's description of a mummy&mdash;the languages of
+America&mdash;town making&mdash;the Indian summer&mdash;population, &amp;c. of Illinois&mdash;the
+prairie hen&mdash;the Turkey buzzard&mdash;settlers&mdash;forest in autumn&mdash;a gouging
+scrape&mdash;the country&mdash;extent and population of Indiana&mdash;hogs&mdash;a settler in
+bottom land&mdash;the sugar maple&mdash;roads&mdash;a baptism
+<br>
+<a href="#CHAPTER_VII"><b>CHAPTER VII</b></a><br>
+Set out for New Orleans&mdash;Louisville&mdash;Mississippi steam-boats&mdash;the
+Ohio&mdash;the Mississippi&mdash;sugar plantations&mdash;the valley of the
+Mississippi&mdash;New Orleans&mdash;Quadroons&mdash;slavery&mdash;a Methodist slavite&mdash;runaway
+Negros&mdash;incendiary fires at Orleans&mdash;liberty of the press&mdash;laws passed by
+the legislature of Louisiana&mdash;Miss Wright&mdash;public schools&mdash;yellow
+fever&mdash;the Texas
+<br>
+<a href="#CHAPTER_VIII"><b>CHAPTER VIII</b></a><br><a name="Page_0"></a>
+Depart for Louisville&mdash;tellandsea, or Spanish moss&mdash;Natchez&mdash;the yellow
+fever&mdash;cotton plantations&mdash;Mississippi wood-cutters&mdash;freshets&mdash;planters,
+sawyers, and snags&mdash;steam-boat blown up&mdash;the Chickesaws&mdash;hunting in
+Tennessee&mdash;electioneering&mdash;vote by ballot&mdash;trade on the Ohio and
+Mississippi rivers&mdash;the People&mdash;the President's veto&mdash;finances&mdash;government
+banks&mdash;Kentucky&mdash;the Kentuckians&mdash;court-houses&mdash;an election&mdash;universal
+suffrage&mdash;an Albino&mdash;Diluvian reliqua
+<br>
+<a href="#CHAPTER_IX"><b>CHAPTER IX</b></a><br>
+The political condition of the Indians&mdash;Missionaries&mdash;the letter of
+Red-jacket&mdash;the speech of the wandering Pawnee chief
+<br>
+<a href="#CHAPTER_X"><b>CHAPTER X</b></a><br>
+Kenhawa salt-works&mdash;coal&mdash;a
+Radical&mdash;rattle-snakes&mdash;Baltimore&mdash;Philadelphia&mdash;taxation&mdash;shipping
+<br>
+<a href="#CHAPTER_XI"><b>CHAPTER XI</b></a><br>
+&quot;The Workies&quot;&mdash;Miss Wright&mdash;the opening of the West India ports to
+American vessels&mdash;voyage homeward&mdash;the stormy petrel&mdash;Gulf weed&mdash;the
+remora&mdash;the molusca&mdash;quarantine
+<br>
+<a href="#APPENDIX"><b>APPENDIX</b></a><br>
+<a href="#EXTRACTS"><b>EXTRACTS</b></a><br>
+</h4>
+<!-- End Autogenerated TOC. -->
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;">
+<a name="CHAPTER_I"></a><h2><a name="Page_1"></a>CHAPTER I</h2>
+<br>
+
+<p>Following the plan I had laid down for myself, I sought and found a goodly
+Yankee merchantman, bound for and belonging to the city of New York. Our
+vessel was manned with a real <i>American</i> crew, that is, a crew, of which
+scarcely two men are of the same nation&mdash;which conveys a tolerably correct
+notion of the population of the United States. The crew consisted of one
+Russian, one German, one Italian, one Scotchman, one Newfoundlander, one
+Irishman, two Englishmen, two New Englanders, and two Negros&mdash;the cook and
+steward. The seamen of America are better paid, and better <a name="Page_2"></a>protected,
+than those of any other nation; but work harder, and must understand their
+duty well. Indeed if we had not had a good crew, our ship, being old,
+might have suffered severely.</p>
+
+<p>In selecting this ship, in addition to accommodations, I only took into
+account her build; and so far was not disappointed, for when she <i>could</i>
+carry sail, she scudded along in gallant style; but with ships as with
+horses, the more they <i>have done</i>, the less they have <i>to do</i>.</p>
+
+<p>I had a strong impression on my mind that a person travelling in America
+as a professed tourist, would be unable to form a correct estimate of the
+real character and condition of the people; for, from their great
+nationality, they would be likely to show him the best side of every
+thing. Of this kind of ostentation I very soon had a slight proof. Our
+ship left port in gallant trim, but had no sooner gained the open sea,
+than all hands were employed in stowing away the finery, <a name="Page_3"></a>and covering the
+rigging with mats&mdash;even the very cabin doors were taken off the hinges,
+and brass knobs and other ornaments which appeared to have been fixtures,
+were unshipped and deposited below, where they remained until our approach
+to New York, when the finery was again displayed, and all was placed once
+more <i>in statu quo</i>.</p>
+
+<p>For the first twelve days we had rather pleasant weather, and nothing
+remarkable occurred, unless a swallow coming on board completely exhausted
+with flying, fatigue made it so tame that it suffered itself to be
+caressed; it however popped into the coop, and the ducks literally gobbled
+it up alive. The ducks were, same day, suffered to roam about the decks,
+and the pigs fell foul of one of them, and eat the breast off it. Passing
+the cabouse, I heard the negro steward soliloquising, and on looking in,
+perceived him cutting a hen's throat with the most heartfelt satisfaction,
+as he grinned and exclaimed, by way of answer to its screams, &quot;Poor
+<a name="Page_4"></a>feller! I guess I wouldn't hurt you for de world;&quot; I could not help
+thinking with Leibnitz, that most sapient of philosophers, that this is
+the best of all possible worlds.</p>
+
+<p>On the thirteenth day we encountered a heavy gale, which continued to
+increase for four successive days. During this period we were unable to
+carry more canvass than was barely necessary to render the vessel
+manageable. A heavy gale, for the first time, is rather interesting than
+otherwise: the novelty of the sea's appearance&mdash;the anxiety of the crew
+and officers&mdash;the promptitude with which commands are given and
+executed&mdash;and the excitement produced by the other incidental occurrences,
+tend to make even a storm, when encountered in open sea, by no means
+destitute of pleasing interest. During this gale, the sailors appeared to
+be more than ordinarily anxious only upon one occasion, and then only for
+a minute&mdash;the circumstance was not calculated to create alarm in the mind
+of a person <a name="Page_5"></a>totally ignorant of nautical affairs, but being somewhat of a
+sailor, I understood the danger tolerably well. The helm was struck by a
+sea, and strained at the bolts; from the concussion occasioned by the
+blow, it was apprehended for a moment that it had been carried away.
+Without a helm, in such weather, much was to be feared; for her timbers
+being old, she could hardly meet the shock of an ocean wave upon her
+broadside without suffering serious injury. The helmsman was knocked
+down&mdash;the captain and mate jumped aft, to ascertain the extent of the
+damage; while the sailors scowled along the deck, as they laid their
+shoulders to the weather side of the ship&mdash;all was anxiety for the
+instant. At length the mate cried, &quot;helm all right,&quot; and the crew pulled
+away as usual. At the close of the fourth day the storm subsided, and we
+approached the banks of Newfoundland.</p>
+
+<p>It is generally supposed that the colour of the sea is a sure indication
+of the pre<a name="Page_6"></a>sence or absence of soundings; that is, that there are
+soundings where the water is green, and that there are none where the
+water is blue. The former is, I believe, true in every instance; but the
+latter is certainly not so, as the first soundings we got here, were in
+water as blue as indigo, depth fifty odd fathoms.</p>
+
+<p>We were thirty days crossing these tiresome banks; during which time we
+were befogged, and becalmed, and annoyed with all sorts of disagreeable
+weather. The fogs or mists were frequently so dense, that it was
+impossible to see more than thirty yards from the vessel. This course is
+not that usually taken by ships bound for the United States, as they
+generally cross the Atlantic at much lower latitudes, but our captain
+&quot;calculated&quot; on escaping calms, and avoiding the influence of the Gulf
+stream, and thus making a quicker passage; he was, however, mistaken, as a
+packet ship that left Liverpool four days after, arrived at New York
+sixteen days before us.</p><a name="Page_7"></a>
+
+<p>We found the thermometer of incalculable service, both for ascertaining
+when we got into the stream, and for disclosing our dangerous proximity to
+icebergs. That we had approached near icebergs we discovered one evening
+to be the case by the mercury falling, suddenly, below 40&deg;, in foggy
+weather. We notwithstanding held on our course, and fortunately escaped
+accident. Many vessels which depart from port with gallant crews, and are
+never heard of more, are lost, I am convinced, by fatal collision with
+these floating islands. From the beginning of spring to the latter end of
+summer, masses of brash ice are occasionally encountered in these
+latitudes.</p>
+
+<p>Towards the evening of the fiftieth day we entered the bay of New York:
+the bay is really beautiful, and at this season (summer) perhaps appeared
+to the greatest advantage. The numerous islands with which it is
+interspersed, were covered to the water's edge with foliage and verdure,
+and here and <a name="Page_8"></a>there studded with handsome villas. The city appeared to be
+literally surrounded by a thick grove of masts, from which floated the
+flags of many nations&mdash;the scene, thus gradually unfolding itself to the
+eyes of one who had been for so long a time immured within a vessel, was
+really fascinating.</p>
+
+<p>While at New York, I staid at the &quot;Pearl-street Boarding-house,&quot; and
+experienced from Messrs. Haskell and Perry, the proprietors, the most
+polite attention. Most Europeans are astonished at the rapidity with which
+the Americans despatch their meals; but I, having admitted the
+proposition, that there was &quot;nothing new under the sun,&quot; had long
+previously ceased to be <i>astonished</i> at any thing. On the first day of my
+dining at the table d'h&ocirc;te, one of those gentlemen told me, when we sat
+down to dinner, that most of the persons at table were men of business,
+who were in the habit of eating much quicker than he knew I was accustomed
+to, and requested that that might not <a name="Page_9"></a>in the slightest interfere with my
+habits, but that I should entirely suit my own comfort and convenience.
+After that preface, I think I should have been most unreasonable to fall
+into a passion with the New Yorkers, because they <i>bolted</i> instead of
+masticating.</p>
+
+<p>New York is altogether a trading place, and different from any thing of
+the same magnitude in Europe: scarcely a single street is exclusively
+filled with private residences;&mdash;in a mercantile point of view, it is the
+Liverpool of the United States.</p>
+
+<p>The negros and mulattos constitute a considerable portion of the
+population. It is impossible to imagine the extreme ugliness of some of
+the sooty gentry; a decent ourang-outang might, without presumption, vie
+with many of these people, even of the <i>fair sex</i>, and an impartial judge
+should certainly decide that the said ourang-outang was the handsomer
+animal. Many of them are wealthy, and dress remarkably well. The females,
+when their shins and mis<a name="Page_10"></a>shapen feet are concealed by long gowns, appear
+to have good figures. A few days after my arrival, walking down &quot;Broadway&quot;
+(the principal street) I was struck with the figure of a fashionably
+dressed woman, who was sauntering before me. After passing, I turned
+round, when&mdash;O angels and ministers of ugliness!&mdash;I beheld a face, as
+black as soot&mdash;a mouth that reached from ear to ear&mdash;a nose, like nothing
+human&mdash;and lips a full inch in diameter! On the following morning, whilst
+dressing at my bed-room window, I heard a squeaking sort of voice warbling
+forth, &quot;Love was once a little Boy,&quot; and &quot;I'd be a Butterfly.&quot; The strange
+<i>melody</i> and unusual intonations induced me to look out, when, to my
+astonishment, I found that the <i>fair</i> songstress was a most
+hideous-looking negress! Such are the scenes that constantly present
+themselves here, and remind a European that he is in a new region.</p>
+
+<p>The white ladies dress fashionably, gene<a name="Page_11"></a>rally <i>&agrave; la Fran&ccedil;oise</i>; have
+straight figures, and with the help of a little cotton, judiciously
+disposed, and sometimes, the smallest possible portion of rouge, contrive
+to look rather interesting; in general, they are lamentably deficient in
+<i>tournure</i> and <i>en-bon-point</i>. The hands and feet of the greatest belle,
+are <i>pas mignon</i>, and would be termed plebeian by the Anglo-Normans&mdash;the
+aristocracy of England. Yet I have seen many girls extremely handsome
+indeed, having a delicate bloom and fair skin; but this does not endure
+long, as the variable nature of the climate&mdash;the sudden and violent
+transitions of temperature which occur on this continent, destroy, in a
+few years, the complexion of the finest woman. When she arrives at the age
+of thirty, her skin is shrivelled and discoloured; she is thin, and has
+all the indications of premature old age. The women of England retain
+their beauty at least ten years longer than those of America.</p>
+
+<p>The inhabitants of that part of New York <a name="Page_12"></a>nearest the shipping, are
+extremely sallow and unhealthy looking, and many have a most cadaverous
+aspect. Malaria certainly exists here in some degree. A man will tell you
+that the city is perfectly healthy, whilst his own appearance most
+unquestionably indicates disease. I speak now of the quays and adjacent
+streets; and the cause is very apparent. The wharfs are faced with wood,
+and the retiring of the tide exposes a rotten vegetable substance to the
+action of an almost tropical sun, which, added to the filth that is
+invariably found in the neighbourhood of shipping, is quite sufficient to
+produce the degree of unhealthiness that exists. On going up the town, the
+appearance of the inhabitants gradually improves, and approaching the
+suburbs, the difference is striking,&mdash;in this district I have seen persons
+as stout and healthy looking as any in England or Ireland.</p>
+
+<p>On the night of my arrival, a fire broke out, by which several extensive
+warehouses <a name="Page_13"></a>were entirely consumed. There is nothing more remarkable here
+than the frequent occurrence of this calamity, except the excellent
+arrangements that are made for arresting its progress. The engines,
+apparatus, and <i>corps de pompiers</i>, are admirably maintained, and the
+promptitude and regularity with which they arrive at the scene of
+devastation truly astonishing: indeed, were this not the case, the city
+must very soon be destroyed; for notwithstanding all their exertions,
+every conflagration makes it minus several houses, and few nights pass
+without bringing a misfortune of this nature.</p>
+
+<p>There are several theatres, churches, and other public buildings,
+dispersed throughout the city. The City Hall, which stands near the upper
+end of a small enclosure, called the Park, is considered the handsomest
+building in the United States. It was finished in 1812, and cost half a
+million dollars.</p>
+
+<p>The police regulations appear not to be so severe as they ought to be, for
+droves of hogs <a name="Page_14"></a>are permitted to roam about the streets, to the terror of
+fine ladies, and the great annoyance of all pedestrians.</p>
+
+<p>New York was settled by the Dutch in 1615, and called by them New
+Amsterdam. In 1634, it was conquered by the English,&mdash;retaken by the Dutch
+in 1673, and restored in 1674. Its present population is estimated at
+213,000.</p>
+
+<p>Having heard that the celebrated Frances Wright, authoress of &quot;A Few Days
+in Athens,&quot; was publicly preaching and promulgating her doctrines in the
+city, I determined on paying the &quot;Hall of Science&quot; a visit, in which
+establishment she usually lectured. The address she delivered on the
+evening I attended had been previously delivered on the fourth of July, in
+the city of Philadelphia; but, at the request of a numerous party of
+&quot;Epicureans,&quot; she was induced to repeat it. The hall might contain perhaps
+ten or twelve hundred persons, and on this occasion it was filled to
+excess, by a well-dressed audience of both sexes.</p><a name="Page_15"></a>
+
+<p>The person of Frances Wright is tall and commanding&mdash;her features are
+rather masculine, and the melancholy cast which her countenance ordinarily
+assumes gives it rather a harsh appearance&mdash;her dark chestnut hair hangs
+in long graceful curls about her neck; and when delivering her lectures,
+her appearance is romantic and unique.</p>
+
+<p>She is a speaker of great eloquence and ability, both as to the matter of
+her orations, and the manner of their delivery. The first sentence she
+utters rivets your attention; and, almost unconsciously, your sympathies
+are excited, and you are carried onward by the reasonings and the
+eloquence of this disciple of the Gardens. The impression made on the
+audience assembled on that occasion was really wonderful. Once or twice,
+when I could withdraw my attention from the speaker, I regarded the
+countenances of those around me, and certainly never witnessed any thing
+more striking. The high-wrought interest depicted in their faces, added to
+the <a name="Page_16"></a>breathless silence that reigned throughout the building, made the
+spectacle the most imposing I ever beheld. She was the Cum&aelig;an Sibyl
+delivering oracles and labouring under the inspiration of the God of
+Day.&mdash;This address was chiefly of a political character, and she took care
+to flatter the prejudices of the Americans, by occasionally recurring to
+the advantages their country possessed over European states&mdash;namely, the
+absence of country gentlemen, and of a church establishment; for to the
+absence of these the Americans attribute a large portion of the very great
+degree of comfort they enjoy.</p>
+
+<p>Near Hoboken, about three miles up North river, at the opposite side to
+New York, a match took place between a boat rowed by two watermen, and a
+canoe paddled by two Indians. The boat was long and narrow, similar in
+form to those that ply on the Thames. The canoe was of the lightest
+possible construction, being composed of thin hickory ribs covered with
+bark. In calm <a name="Page_17"></a>weather, the Indians propel these vessels through the water
+with astonishing velocity; but when the wind is high, and the water much
+disturbed, their progress is greatly impeded. It so happened on this day
+that the water was rough, and consequently unfavourable to the Aborigines.
+At the appointed signal the competitors started. For a short distance the
+Indians kept up with their rivals, but the long heavy pull of the oar soon
+enabled the boatmen to leave them at a distance. The Indians, true to
+their character, seeing the contest hopeless, after the first turn, no
+longer contended for victory; they paddled deliberately back to the
+starting place, stepped out, and carried their canoe on shore. The
+superiority of the oar over the paddle was in this contest fully
+demonstrated. </p><a name="Page_18"></a>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;">
+<a name="CHAPTER_II"></a><h2><a name="Page_19"></a>CHAPTER II</h2>
+<br>
+
+<p>Having determined on quitting &quot;the London of the States,&quot; as my friends
+the Yankees call New York, I had bag and baggage conveyed on board a
+steamer bound for Albany. The arrangements and accommodations on board
+this boat were superb, and surpassed any thing of the kind I ever met with
+in Europe, on the same scale; and the groups of well-dressed passengers
+fully indicated the general prosperity of the country.</p>
+
+<p>The distance between New York and Albany is about 165 miles. The scenery
+on the Hudson is said to be the most beautiful of any in America, and I
+believe cannot be surpassed in any country. Many of the <a name="Page_20"></a>beauties of rich
+European scenery are to be found along the banks of that noble river. In
+the highlands, about fifty miles from New York, is West Point, on which
+stands a strong fortress, containing an arsenal, a military-school, and a
+garrison. It is romantically situated among lofty crags and mountains,
+which rise above the level of the water from 1100 to 1500 feet. There are
+many handsome country seats and villages between West Point and Hudson,
+where the river is more than a mile wide.</p>
+
+<p>After a passage of about sixteen or seventeen hours, we arrived at Albany.
+The charge for passage, including dinner and tea, was only three dollars;
+and the day following the cost was reduced, through the spirit of
+opposition, to one dollar.</p>
+
+<p>Albany is the legislative capital of New York. It is a handsome city, and
+one of the oldest in the Union. Most of the houses are built of wood,
+which, when tastefully painted (not often the case) have rather a pleasing
+<a name="Page_21"></a>appearance. The situation of this city is advantageous, both from the
+direct communication which it enjoys with the Atlantic, by means of sloops
+and schooners, and the large tract of back country which it commands. A
+trade with Canada is established by means of the Erie and Hudson canal.
+The capitol, and other public buildings, are large and handsome, and being
+constructed of either brick or stone, give the city a respectable
+appearance.</p>
+
+<p>Albany, in 1614, was first settled by the Dutch, and was by them called
+Orange. On its passing into the hands of the English, in 1664, its present
+name was given to it, in honour of the Duke of York. It was chartered in
+1686.</p>
+
+<p>From Albany I proceeded along the canal, by West Troy and Junction, and
+near the latter place we came to Cohoe's Falls, on the Mohawk. The river
+here is about 250 yards wide, which rushing over a jagged and uneven bed
+of rocks, produces a very pic<a name="Page_22"></a>turesque effect. The canal runs nearly
+parallel with this river from Junction to Utica, crossing it twice, at an
+interval of seven miles, over aqueducts nearly fifty rods in length,
+constructed of solid beams of timber. The country is very beautiful, and
+for the most part well cultivated. The soil possesses every variety of
+good and bad. The farms along the canal are valuable, land being generally
+worth from fifty to a hundred dollars per acre.</p>
+
+<p>Above Schenectady, a very ancient town, the bed of the canal gave way,
+which of course obliged us to come to a dead halt. I hired, for myself and
+two others, a family waggon (dignified here with the appellation of
+<i>carriage</i>) to take us beyond the break, in expectation of being able to
+get a boat thence onwards, but unfortunately all the upward-bound boats
+had proceeded. We were, therefore, obliged to wait until next morning. My
+fellow travellers having light luggage, got themselves and it into a hut
+at the other side of the lock; but I, having heavy baggage, <a name="Page_23"></a>which it was
+impossible to carry across, was compelled to remain on the banks, between
+the canal and the Mohawk, all night. On the river there were several
+canoes, with fishermen spearing by torch-light; while on the banks the
+boatmen and boys, Mulattos and whites, were occupied in gambling. They had
+tables, candles, dice, and cards. With these, and with a <i>quantum
+sufficit</i> of spirits, they contrived to while away the time until
+day-break; of course interlarding their conversation with a reasonable
+quantity of oaths and imprecations. The breach being repaired early in the
+morning, the boats came up, and we proceeded to Utica.</p>
+
+<p>Seven miles above Utica is seated Rome, a small and dirty town, bearing no
+possible resemblance to the &quot;Eternal City,&quot; even in its more modern
+condition, as the residence of the &quot;Triple Prince;&quot; but, on the contrary,
+having, if one could judge from the habitations, every appearance of
+squalid poverty. Fifteen miles further on, we passed <a name="Page_24"></a>the Little Falls. It
+was night when we came to them, but it being moonlight, we had an
+opportunity of seeing them to advantage. The crags are here
+stupendous&mdash;irregular and massive piles of rocks, from which spring the
+lofty pine and cedar, are heaped in frightful disorder on each other, and
+give the scene a terrifically grand appearance.</p>
+
+<p>From Rome to Syracuse, a distance of forty-six miles, the canal is cut
+through a swampy forest, a great portion of which is composed of dead
+trees. One of the most dismal scenes imaginable is a forest of charred
+trees, which is occasionally to be met with in this country, especially in
+the route by which I was travelling. It is caused by the woods being
+fired, by accident or otherwise. The aspect of these blasted monuments of
+ruined vegetation is strange and peculiar; and the air of desertion and
+desolation which pervades their neighbourhood, reminds one of the stories
+that are told of the Upas <a name="Page_25"></a>valley of Java, for here too not a bird is to
+be seen. The smell arising from this swamp in the night, was so bad as to
+oblige us to shut all the windows and doors of the boat, which, added to
+the bellowing and croaking of the bull frogs&mdash;the harsh and incessant
+noise of the grasshoppers, and the melancholy cry of the whip-poor-will,
+formed a combination not of the most agreeable nature. Yet, in defiance of
+all this, we were induced occasionally to brave the terrors of the night,
+in order to admire that beautiful insect the fire-fly, or as it is called
+by the natives, &quot;lightning bug.&quot; They emit a greenish phosphorescent
+light, and are seen at this season in every part of the country. The woods
+here were full of them, and seemed literally to be studded with small
+stars, which emitted a bright flickering light.</p>
+
+<p>After you pass Syracuse, the country begins to improve; but still it is
+low and marshy, and for the most part unhealthy, as the appearance of the
+people clearly <a name="Page_26"></a>indicates. In this country, as in every other, the canals
+are generally cut through comparatively low lands, and the low lands here,
+with few exceptions, are all swampy; however, a great deal of the
+unhealthiness which pervades this district, arises from want of attention.
+A large portion of the inhabitants are Low Dutch, who appear never to be
+in their proper element, unless when settled down in the midst of a swamp.
+They allow rotten timber to accumulate, and stagnant pools to remain about
+their houses, and from these there arises an effluvium which is most
+unpleasant in warm weather, which, however, they do not seem to perceive.</p>
+
+<p>We entered Rochester, through an aqueduct thirty rods in length, built of
+stone, across the Genessee river. Rochester is the handsomest town on this
+line. Some of the houses here are tastefully decorated. All the windows
+have Venetian blinds, and generally there are one or two covered balconies
+attached to the front of each house.<a name="Page_27"></a> Before the doors there are small
+<i>parterres</i>, planted with rose-trees, and other fragrant shrubs. About
+half a mile from the town are the Falls of Genessee. The water glides over
+an even bed of limestone rock, ninety-six feet above the level of the
+river below. There is a beautiful regularity in this fall, but its extreme
+uniformity divests it of picturesque effect. Here the celebrated diver,
+Sam. Patch, subsequently met his fate in diving off this precipice. He had
+performed similar feats at the Falls of Niagara, without sustaining any
+injury. He was not killed by the fall; but is supposed to have fainted
+when midway from, his leap, as his arms were observed to relax, and his
+legs to open, before he reached the water.</p>
+
+<p>On my journey I met with an Englishman, a Mr. W&mdash;&mdash;. He dressed <i>&agrave; la Mungo
+Park</i>, wearing a jacket and trowsers of jean, and a straw hat. He was a
+great pedestrian; had travelled through most of the southern States, and
+was now on his tour through this <a name="Page_28"></a>part of the country. He was a gentleman
+about fifty,&mdash;silent and retiring in his habits. Enamoured of the
+orange-trees of Georgia, he intended returning there or to Carolina, and
+ending his days. We agreed to visit the Falls of Niagara together, and
+accordingly quitted the boat at Tonawanta. When we had dined, and had
+deposited our luggage in the safe keeping of the Niagara hotel-keeper, my
+companion shouldered his vigne stick, and to one end of which he appended
+a small bundle, containing a change of linen, &amp;c., and I put on my
+shooting coat of many pockets, and shouldered my gun. Thus equipped, we
+commenced our journey to the Great Falls. The distance from Tonawanta to
+the village of the Falls, now called Manchester, is about eleven miles.
+The way lies through a forest, in which there are but a few scattered
+habitations. A great part of the road runs close to the river Niagara; and
+the occasional glimpses of this broad sheet of water, which are obtained
+<a name="Page_29"></a>through the rich foliage of the forest, added to the refreshing breeze
+that approached us through the openings, rendered our pedestrian excursion
+extremely delightful.</p>
+
+<p>Towards evening we arrived at the village, and proceeded to reconnoitre,
+in order to fix our position for the night. After having done this
+satisfactorily, we then turned our attention to the all-important
+operation of eating and drinking. While supping, an eccentric-looking
+person passed out through the apartment in which we were. His odd
+appearance excited our curiosity, and we inquired who this
+mysterious-looking gentleman was. We were informed that he was an
+Englishman, and that he had been lodging there for the last six months,
+but that he concealed his real name. He slept in one corner of a large
+barrack room, in which there were of course several other beds. On a small
+table by his bed-side there were a few French and Latin books, and some
+scraps of poetry touching on the <a name="Page_30"></a>tender passion. These, and a German
+flute, which we observed standing against the window, gave us some clue to
+his character. He was a tall, romantic-looking young man, apparently about
+twenty-seven or twenty-eight years of age. His dress was particularly
+shabby. This the landlord told us was from choice, not from necessity, as
+he had two trunks full of clothes nearly new. The reason he gave for
+dressing as he did, was his knowing, he said, that if he dressed well,
+people would be talking to him, which he wished to avoid; but, that by
+dressing as he did, he made sure that no one would ever think of giving
+him any annoyance of that kind. I thought this idea unique: and whether he
+be still at Niagara, or has taken up his abode at the foot of the Rocky
+mountains, I pronounce him to be a Diogenes without a tub. He has read at
+least one page in the natural history of civilized man.</p>
+
+<p>We visited the Falls, at the American side by moonlight. There was then an
+air of <a name="Page_31"></a>grandeur and sublimity in the scene which I shall long remember.
+Yet at this side they are not seen to the greatest advantage. Next morning
+I crossed the Niagara river, below the Falls, into Canada. I did not
+ascend the bank to take the usual route to the Niagara hotel, at which
+place there is a spiral staircase descending 120 feet towards the foot of
+the Falls, but clambered along at the base of the cliffs until I reached
+the point immediately below the stairs. I here rested, and indeed required
+it much, for the day was excessively warm, and I had unfortunately
+encumbered myself with my gun and shot pouch. The Falls are here seen in
+all their grandeur. Two immense volumes of water glide over perpendicular
+precipices upwards of 170 feet in height, and tumble among the crags below
+with a roaring that <i>we</i> distinctly heard on our approach to the village,
+at the distance of five miles up the river: and down the river it can be
+heard at a much greater distance. The Falls are divided by Goat Island
+into two <a name="Page_32"></a>parts. The body of water which falls to the right of the island
+is much greater than that which falls to the left; and the cliffs to the
+right assume the form of a horse-shoe. To the left there is also a
+considerable indentation, caused by a late falling in of the rock; but it
+scarcely appears from the Canadian side. The rushing of the waters over
+such immense precipices&mdash;the dashing of the spray, which rises in a white
+cloud at the base of the Falls, and is felt at the distance of a quarter
+of a mile&mdash;the many and beautiful rainbows that occasionally
+appear,&mdash;united, form a grand and imposing <i>coup d'oeil</i>.</p>
+
+<p>The Fall is supposed to have been originally at the table-land near
+Lewiston; and indeed, from the nature of the ground, and its present
+condition below the Falls, no reasonable objection can be entertained to
+that supposition. The upper part of the cliffs is composed of hard
+limestone, and underneath is a bed of schistus. Now this schistus is
+continually worn away by the water's dashing <a name="Page_33"></a>against it. This leaves the
+upper part, or immediate bed of the river, without foundation. When,
+therefore, from extraordinary floods, the pressure of the incumbent fluid
+becomes more than usually great, the rock gives way; and thus, gradually,
+the Falls have receded several miles.</p>
+
+<p>I at length ascended the stairs, and popped my head into the shanty, <i>sans
+ceremonie</i>, to the no small amazement of the cunning compounder of
+&quot;cock-tails,&quot; and &quot;mint julaps&quot; who presided at the bar. It was clear that
+I had ascended the stairs, but how the deuce I had got down was the
+question. I drank my &quot;brandy sling,&quot; and retreated before he had recovered
+from his surprise, and thus I escaped the volley of interrogatories with
+which I should have been most unsparingly assailed. I walked for some
+distance along the Canadian heights, and then crossed the river, where I
+met my friend waiting my return under a clump of scrub oak.</p>
+
+<p>We had previously determined on visiting <a name="Page_34"></a>the Tuscarora village, an Indian
+settlement about eight miles down the river, and not far from Ontario.
+This is a tribe of one of the six nations, the last that was admitted into
+the Confederation. They live in a state of community; and in their
+arrangements for the production and distribution of wealth, approach
+nearer to the Utopean system than any community with which I am
+acquainted. The squaws told us that no Indian there could claim any thing
+but what was contained within his own cabin; that the produce of the land
+was common property, and that they never quarrelled about its division. We
+dined in one of their cabins, on lean mutton and corn bread. The interior
+of their habitations is not conspicuous for cleanliness; nor are they so
+far civilized as to be capable of breaking their word. The people at the
+Niagara village told us, that with the exception of two individuals in
+that community, any Indian could get from them on credit either money or
+goods to whatever amount he required.</p><a name="Page_35"></a>
+
+<p>I here parted with my fellow traveller, perhaps for ever. He went to
+Lewiston, whence he intended to cross into Canada, and to walk along the
+shores of Ontario; whilst I made the best of my way back through the woods
+to Manchester. I certainly think our landlord had some misgivings
+respecting the fate of my companion. We had both departed together: I
+alone was armed&mdash;and I alone returned. However, as I unflinchingly stood
+examination and cross-examination, and sojourned until next morning, his
+fears seemed to be entirely dispelled. Next day I took a long, last look
+at Niagara, and departed for Tonawanta.</p>
+
+<p>At Tonawanta I again took the canal-boat to Buffalo, a considerable town
+on the shores of lake Erie, and at the head of the canal navigation. There
+are several good buildings in this town, and some well-appointed hotels.
+Lake schooners, and steam and canal boats are here in abundance, it being
+an entrep&ocirc;t for western produce and eastern merchandize.<a name="Page_36"></a> A few straggling
+Indians are to be seen skulking about Buffalo, like dogs in Cairo, the
+victims of the inordinate use of ardent spirits.</p>
+
+<p>From Buffalo I proceeded in a steamer along lake Erie, to Portland in
+Ohio, now called Sandusky City; the distance 240 miles. After about an
+hour's sail, we entirely lost sight of the Canadian shores. The scenery on
+the American side is very fine, particularly from Presqu' Isle onward to
+the head of the lake, or rather from its magnitude, it might be termed an
+inland sea.</p>
+
+<p>On landing at Sandusky, I learned that there were several Indian reserves
+between that place and Columbus, the seat of government. This determined
+me on making a pedestrian tour to that city. Accordingly, having forwarded
+my luggage, and made other necessary arrangements, I commenced my
+pergrinations among the Aborigines.</p>
+
+<p>The woods in the upper part of Ohio, nearest the lake, are tolerably open,
+and <a name="Page_37"></a>occasionally interspersed with sumach and sassafras: the soil
+somewhat sandy. I met with but few Indians, until my arrival at Lower
+Sandusky, on the Sandusky river; here there were several groups returning
+to their reserves, from Canada, where they had been to receive the annual
+presents made them by the British government. In the next county (Seneca)
+there is a reservation of about three miles square, occupied by Senecas,
+Cayugas, and part of the Iroquois or six nations, once a most powerful
+confederation amongst the red men.<a name="FNanchor_1_1"></a><a href="#Footnote_1_1"><sup>[1]</sup></a> In Crawford <a name="Page_38"></a>county there is a very
+large reserve belonging to the Huron or Wyandot Indians. These, though
+speaking a dialect of the Iroquois tongue, are more in connexion with the
+Delawares than with the Iroquois. The Wyandots are much esteemed by their
+white neighbours, for probity and good behaviour. They dress very
+tastefully. A handsome chintz shawl tied in the Moorish fashion about the
+head&mdash;leggings of blue cloth, reaching half way up the thigh, sewn at the
+outside, leaving a hem of about an inch deep&mdash;mocassins, or Indian boots,
+made of deer-skin, to fit the foot close, like a glove&mdash;a shirt or tunic
+of white calico&mdash;and a hunting shirt, or frock, made of strong
+blue-figured cotton or woollen cloth, with a small fringed cape, and long
+sleeves,&mdash;a tomahawk and scalping knife stuck in a broad leather belt.
+Accoutred in this manner, and mounted <a name="Page_39"></a>on a small hardy horse, called here
+an Indian pony, imagine a tall, athletic, brown man, with black hair and
+eyes&mdash;the hair generally plaited in front, and sometimes hanging in long
+wavy curls behind&mdash;aquiline nose, and fearless aspect, and you have a fair
+idea of the Wyandot and Cayuga Indian. The Senecas and Oneidas whom I met
+with, were not so handsome in general, but as athletic, and about the same
+average height&mdash;five feet nine or ten.</p>
+
+<p>The Indians here, as every where else, are governed by their own laws, and
+never have recourse to the whites to settle their disputes. That silent
+unbending spirit, which has always characterized the Indian, has alone
+kept in check the rapacious disposition of the whites. Several attempts
+have been made to induce the Indians to sell their lands, and go beyond
+the Mississippi, but hitherto without effect. The Indian replies to the
+fine speeches and wily language of the whites, &quot;We hold this small bit of
+land, in <a name="Page_40"></a>the vast country of our fathers, by <i>your</i> written talk, and it
+is noted on <i>our</i> wampums&mdash;the bones of our fathers lie here, and we
+cannot forsake them. You tell us our great father (the president) is
+powerful, and that his arm is long and strong&mdash;we believe it is so; but we
+are in hopes that he will not strike his red children for their lands, and
+that he will leave us this little piece to live upon&mdash;the hatchet is long
+buried, let it not be disturbed.&quot;</p>
+
+<p>Jackson has lately published a manifesto to all the Indian tribes within
+the limits of the United States, commanding them to sell their reserves;
+and with few exceptions, has been answered in this manner.</p>
+
+<p>A circumstance occurred a few days previous to my arrival, in the Seneca
+reserve, which may serve to illustrate the determined character of the
+Indian. There were three brothers (chiefs) dwelling in this reservation.
+&quot;Seneca John,&quot; the eldest brother, was the principal chief of the tribe,
+and a man much <a name="Page_41"></a>esteemed by the white people. He died by poison. The
+chiefs in council, having satisfactorily ascertained that his second
+brother &quot;Red-hand,&quot; and a squaw, had poisoned him, decreed that Red-hand
+should be put to death. &quot;Black-snake,&quot; the other brother, told the chiefs
+that if Red-hand must die, he himself would kill him, in order to prevent
+feuds arising in the tribe. Accordingly in the evening he repaired to the
+hut of Red-hand, and after having sat in silence for some time, said, &quot;My
+best chiefs say, you have killed my father's son,&mdash;they say my brother
+must die.&quot; Red-hand merely replied, &quot;They say so;&quot; and continued to smoke.
+After about fifteen minutes further silence, Black-snake said, pointing to
+the setting sun, &quot;When he appears above those trees&quot;&mdash;moving his arm round
+to the opposite direction&mdash;&quot;I come to kill you.&quot; Red-hand nodded his head
+in the short significant style of the Indian, and said &quot;Good.&quot; The next
+morning Black-snake came, followed by two chiefs, and having <a name="Page_42"></a>entered the
+hut, first put out the squaw, he then returned and stood before his
+brother, his eyes bent on the ground. Red-hand said calmly, &quot;Has my
+brother come that I may die?&quot;&mdash;&quot;It is so,&quot; was the reply. &quot;Then,&quot;
+exclaimed Red-hand, grasping his brother's left hand with his own right,
+and dashing the shawl from his head, &quot;Strike sure!&quot; In an instant the
+tomahawk was from the girdle of Black-snake, and buried in the skull of
+the unfortunate man. He received several blows before he fell, uttering
+the exclamation &quot;hugh,&quot; each time. The Indians placed him on the grass to
+die, where the backwoodsman who told me the story, saw him after the lapse
+of two hours, and life was not then extinct,&mdash;with such tenacity does it
+cling to the body of an Indian. The scalping knife was at length passed
+across his throat, and thus ended the scene.</p>
+
+<p>From Sandusky city, in Huron county, I passed into Sandusky county, and
+from thence through Seneca county. These three <a name="Page_43"></a>counties are entirely
+woodlands, with the exception of a few small prairies which lay eastward
+of my course. The land is generally fertile. Some light sandy soil is
+occasionally to be met with, which produces more quickly than the heavier
+soil, but not so abundantly. I saw in my travels through these counties a
+few persons who were ill of ague-fever, as it is here called. The
+prevalence of this disease is not to be attributed to a general
+unhealthiness of the climate, but can at all times be referred to
+localities.</p>
+
+<p>I next entered Crawford county, and crossed the Wyandot prairie, about
+seven miles in length, to Upper Sandusky. This was the first of those
+extensive meadows I had seen, and I was much pleased with its
+appearance&mdash;although this prairie is comparatively but small, yet its
+beauty cannot be surpassed; and the groves, and clusters of trees, <i>iles
+de bois</i>, with which it is interspersed, make it much resemble a beautiful
+domain.</p><a name="Page_44"></a>
+
+<p>Attached to the Wyandot reserve (nine miles by sixteen) is that of the
+Delawares (three miles square). On reaching Little Sandusky&mdash;Kahama's
+curse on the town baptizers of America!&mdash;there are often five or six
+places named alike in one state: upper and lower, little and big, great
+and small&mdash;and invariably the same names that are given to towns in one
+State, are to be found in every other. Then their vile plagiarisms of
+European names causes a Babelonish confusion of ideas, enough to disturb
+the equanimity of a &quot;grisly saint;&quot; and, with all humility, I disclaim
+having any pretensions to that character. I have frequently heard a
+long-legged, sallow-looking backwoodsman talk of having come lately from
+Paris, or Mecca, when instead of meaning the capital of <i>La grande
+nation</i>, or the city of &quot;the holy prophet,&quot; he spoke of some town
+containing a few hundred inhabitants, situated in the backwoods of
+Kentucky, or amidst the gloomy forests of Indiana. The Americans too speak
+in pros<a name="Page_45"></a>pective, when they talk of great places; no doubt &quot;calculating&quot;
+that, one day, all the mighty productions of the old world will be
+surpassed by their ingenuity and perseverance.</p>
+
+<p>I reached Little Sandusky about one o'clock in the day, and there learned
+that there was a treaty being holden with the Delawares&mdash;accordingly I
+repaired to the council ground. On a mat, under the shade of seven large
+elm trees, which in more prosperous times had waved over the war-like
+ancestors of this unfortunate people, were seated three old sachems, the
+principal of the tribe. The oldest appeared to be nearly eighty years of
+age, the next about seventy, and the last about fifty. On a chair to the
+right of the Indians was seated a young &quot;half-breed&quot; chief, the son of one
+of the sachems by a white squaw; and on their left, seated on another
+chair, a Delaware dressed in the costume of the whites. This young man was
+in the pay of the States, and <a name="Page_46"></a>acted as interpreter&mdash;he interpreting into
+and from the Delaware language, and a gentleman of the mission (a Captain
+Walker) into and from the Wyandot. At a table opposite the Indians were
+seated the commissioners.</p>
+
+<p>The Lenni Lenap&eacute;, or Delawares, as they were called by the English, from
+the circumstance of their holding their great &quot;Council-fire&quot; on the banks
+of the Delaware river, were once the most powerful of the several tribes
+that spoke the Delaware tongue, and possessed an immense tract of country
+east of the Alleghany mountains. This unfortunate people had been driven
+from place to place, until at last they were obliged to accept of an
+asylum from the Wyandot, whom they call their uncle; and now are forced to
+sell this, and go beyond the Mississippi. To a reflecting mind, the scene
+was touching beyond description. Here was the sad remnant of a great
+nation, who having been forced back from the original country of their
+fathers, by successive acts of rapacity, are <a name="Page_47"></a>now compelled to enter into
+a compact which obliges them, half civilized as they are, to return to the
+forest. The case is this,&mdash;the white people, or rather Jackson and the
+southerns, say, that the Indians &quot;retard improvement&quot;&mdash;precisely in the
+same sense that a brigand, when he robs a traveller, might say, that the
+traveller retarded improvement&mdash;that is, retarded <i>his</i> improvement,
+inasmuch as he had in his pocket, what would improve the condition of the
+brigand. The Indians have cultivated farms, and valuable tracts of land,
+and no doubt it will improve the condition of the whites, to get
+possession of those farms and rich lands, for <i>one tenth of their saleable
+value</i>. The profits that have accrued to the United States from the
+systematic plunder of the Indians, are immense, and a great portion of the
+national debt has been liquidated by this dishonest means.<a name="FNanchor_2_2"></a><a href="#Footnote_2_2"><sup>[2]</sup></a></p>
+
+<p>The reserve of the Delawares contained nine square miles, or 5760 acres.
+For this it <a name="Page_48"></a>was agreed at the treaty, that they should be paid 6000
+dollars, and the value of the improvements, which I conceived to be a fair
+bargain. I was not then aware of the practice pursued by the government,
+of making deductions, under various pretences, from the purchase-money,
+until the unfortunate Indian is left scarcely anything in lieu of his
+lands, and says, that &quot;the justice of the white man is not like the
+justice of the red man,&quot; and that he cannot understand the honesty of his
+Christian brother. The following extract, <a name="Page_49"></a>taken from the New York
+American, will give some insight into the mode of dealing with the
+Indians.</p>
+
+<p>&quot;<i>The last of the Ottowas</i>.&mdash;Maumee Bay, Ohio, Sept. 3, 1831.&mdash;Mr. James
+B. Gardiner has concluded a very important treaty at Maumee Bay, in
+Michigan, for a cession of all the lands owned by the Ottowa Indians in
+Ohio, about 50,000 acres. It was attended with more labour and greater
+difficulties than any other treaty made in this state: it was the last
+foothold which that savage, warlike, and hostile tribe held in their
+ancient dominion. The conditions of this treaty are very similar to those
+treaties of Lewistown and Wapaghkenetta, <i>with this exception</i>, that the
+surplus avails of their lands, <i>after deducting seventy cents per acre to
+indemnify the government</i>, are to be appropriated for paying the debts of
+their nation, which amount to about 20,000 dollars.&quot; [Query, what are
+those debts?&mdash;could they be the amount of <i>presents</i> made them on former
+occasions?] &quot;The balance,<a name="Page_50"></a> <i>if any</i>, accrues to the tribe. Seventy
+thousand acres of land are granted to them west of the Mississippi.<a name="FNanchor_3_3"></a><a href="#Footnote_3_3"><sup>[3]</sup></a> The
+Ottowas are the most depredating, drunken, and ferocious in Ohio. The
+reservations ceded by them are very valuable, and those on the Miami of
+the lake embrace some of the best mill privileges in the State.&quot;</p>
+
+<p>The Delawares were too few (being but fifty-one in number) to contend the
+matter, and therefore accepted of the proposed terms. At the conclusion of
+the conference, the Commissioners told them that they should have a barrel
+of flour, with the beef that had been killed for the occasion, which was
+received with &quot;Yo-ha!&mdash;Yo-ha!&quot; They then said, laughing, &quot;that they hoped
+their father would allow them a little milk,&quot; meaning whisky, which was
+accordingly granted. They drank of this modern Leth&eacute; and forgot for a time
+their misfortunes.</p>
+<a name="Page_51"></a>
+<p>On the Osage fork of the Merrimack river, there are two settlements of the
+Delawares, to the neighbourhood of which these Indians intend to remove.</p>
+
+<p>Near the Delaware reserve, I fell in with a young Indian, apparently about
+twenty years of age, and we journeyed together for several miles through
+the forest. He spoke English fluently, and conformed as far as his taste
+would permit him, to the habits of the whites. His dress consisted of a
+blue frock coat, blue cloth leggings, moccasins, a shawl tied about the
+head, and a red sash round his waste. In conversation, I asked him if he
+were not a Cayuga&mdash;: &quot;No,&quot; says he, &quot;an Oneida,&quot; placing both his hands on
+his breast&mdash;&quot;a <i>clear</i> Oneida.&quot; I could not help smiling at his national
+pride;&mdash;yet this is man: in every country and condition he is proud of his
+descent, and loves the race to which he belongs. This Oneida was a widow's
+son. He had sixteen acres of cleared land, which, with occasional
+assistance, he cultivated himself.<a name="Page_52"></a> When the produce was sold, he divided
+the proceeds with his mother, and then set out, and travelled until his
+funds were exhausted. He had just then returned from a tour to New York
+and Philadelphia, and had visited almost every city in the Union. As
+Guedeldk&mdash;that was the Oneida's name&mdash;and I were rambling along, we met a
+negro who was journeying in great haste&mdash;he stopped to inquire if we had
+seen that day, or the day previous, any nigger-woman going towards the
+lake. I had passed the day before two waggon loads of negros, which were
+being transported, by the state, to Canada. A local law prohibits the
+settlement of people of colour within the state of Ohio, which was now put
+in force, although it had remained dormant for many years.</p>
+
+<p>There was much hardship in the case of this poor fellow. He had left his
+family at Cincinnati, and had gone to work on the canal some eighteen or
+twenty miles distant. He had been absent about a week; and on his return
+he found his house empty, and was <a name="Page_53"></a>informed that his wife and children had
+been seized, and transported to Canada. The enforcement of this law has
+been since abandoned; and I must say, although the law itself is at
+variance with the Constitution of the United States, which is paramount to
+all other laws, that its abandonment is due entirely to the good feeling
+of the people of Ohio, who exclaimed loudly against the cruelty of the
+measure. </p><a name="Page_54"></a>
+
+<p>FOOTNOTES:</p>
+
+<a name="Footnote_1_1"></a><a href="#FNanchor_1_1">[1]</a><div class="note"><p> De Witt Clinton, speaking of the Iroquois, or five nations,
+says, &quot;Their exterior relations, general interests, and national affairs,
+were conducted and superintended by a great council, assembled annually in
+Onondaga, the central canton, composed of the chiefs of each republic; and
+eighty sachems were frequently convened at this national assembly. It took
+cognizance of the great questions of war and peace; of the affairs of the
+tributary nations, and their negotiations with the French and English
+colonies. All their proceedings were conducted with great deliberation,
+and were distinguished for order, decorum, and solemnity. In eloquence, in
+dignity, and in all the characteristics of profound policy, they surpassed
+the assembly of feudal barons, and perhaps were not inferior to the great
+Amphictyonic Council of Greece.&quot;</p></div>
+
+<a name="Footnote_2_2"></a><a href="#FNanchor_2_2">[2]</a><div class="note">
+<pre>
+                                               Dollars.
+
+ Amount of lands sold up to the year 1824    44,229,837
+
+173,176,606 acres unsold, estimated at one
+dollar per acre. The Congress price was
+then two dollars, but was subsequently
+reduced to a dollar and a quarter, and
+is now 75 cents.                            173,176,606
+                                            -----------
+                                            217,406,443
+
+Deduct value of annuities, expenses of
+surveying, &amp;c. &amp;c., being the amount of
+purchase-money paid for same                  4,243,632
+                                            -----------
+
+Profit arising to the United States from
+purchases of land from the Indians          213,162,811
+                                            -----------
+Allowing 480 cents, to the pound sterling, the gross
+          profit is £44,408,918. 19<i>s</i>. 2<i>d</i>.
+</pre>
+</div>
+
+<a name="Footnote_3_3"></a><a href="#FNanchor_3_3">[3]</a><div class="note"><p> There are lands west of the Mississippi, which would be dear
+at ten cents per hundred acres.</p></div>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;">
+<a name="CHAPTER_III"></a><h2><a name="Page_55"></a>CHAPTER III</h2>
+<br>
+
+<p>From Little Sandusky, I passed through Marion, in Marion county. This
+town, like most others in Ohio, is advancing rapidly, and has at present
+several good brick buildings. The clap-boarded frame houses, which compose
+the great mass of habitations in the towns throughout the western country,
+in general have a neat appearance. I here saw gazetted three divorces, all
+of which had been granted on the applications of the wives. One, on the
+ground of the husband's absenting himself for one year: another, on
+account of a blow having been given: and the third for general neglect.
+There are few instances of a woman's being refused a divorce in the
+western coun<a name="Page_56"></a>try, as dislike is very generally&mdash;and very
+rationally&mdash;supposed to constitute a sufficient reason for granting the
+ladies their freedom.</p>
+
+<p>I crossed Delaware county into Franklin county, where Columbus, the
+capital of the state, is situated. The roads from the lake to this city,
+with few exceptions, passed through woodlands, and the country is but
+thinly settled. Beech, oak, elm, hickory, walnut, white-oak, ash, &amp;c.
+compose the bulk of the forest trees; and in the bottom lands, enormous
+sycamores are to be seen stretching their white arms almost to the very
+clouds. The land is of various denominations, but in general may be termed
+fertile.</p>
+
+<p>Columbus, the capital of Ohio, is seated on the Scioto river, which is
+navigable for keel and flat boats, and small craft, almost to its source;
+and by means of a portage of about four miles, to Sandusky river, which
+flows into lake Erie, a convenient communication is established between
+the lakes, and the great western waters. The town is well laid out.<a name="Page_57"></a> The
+streets are wide; and the court-house, town-hall, and public offices, are
+built of brick. There are some good taverns here, and the tables d'h&ocirc;tes
+are well and abundantly supplied.</p>
+
+<p>There are land offices in every county seat, in which maps and plans of
+the county are kept. On these, the disposable tracts of country are
+distinguished from those which have been disposed of. The purchaser pays
+one fourth of the purchase money, for which he gets a receipt,&mdash;this
+constitutes his title, until, on paying the residue, he receives a regular
+title deed. He may however pay the full amount at once, and receive a
+discount of, I believe, eight per cent. A township comprises thirty-six
+square miles (twenty three thousand and forty acres) in sections of six
+hundred and forty acres each, which are subdivided, to accommodate
+purchasers, into quarter sections, or lots of a hundred and sixty acres.
+The sixteenth section is not sold, but reserved for the support of the
+poor, for <a name="Page_58"></a>education, and other public uses. There is no provision made in
+this, or any other state, for the ministers of religion, which is found to
+be highly beneficial to the interests of practical Christianity. The
+congress price of land has lately been reduced from a dollar and a quarter
+per acre, to seventy-five cents.</p>
+
+<p>Ohio averages 184 miles in extent, from north to south, and 220 miles from
+east to west. Area, 40,000 square miles, or 25,600,000 acres. The
+population in 1790, was 3000; in 1800, 45,365; in 1810, 230,760; and in
+1820, 581,434. White males, 300,609; white females, 275,955; free people
+of colour, 4723; militia in 1821, 83,247. The last census, taken in 1830,
+makes the population 937,679.</p>
+
+<p>Having no more Indian reserves to visit, I took the stage, and rumbled
+over corduroys, republicans, stumps, and ruts, until my ribs were
+literally sore, through London, Xenia, and Lebanon, to Cincinnati.</p>
+
+<p>At Lebanon there is a large community of <a name="Page_59"></a>the shaking Quakers. They have
+establishments also in Mason county, and at Covington, in Kentucky: their
+tenets are strictly Scriptural. They contend, that confessing their sins
+to one another, is necessary to a state of perfection; that the church of
+Christ ought to have all things in common; that none of the members of
+this church ought to cohabit, but be literally virgins; and that to dance
+and be merry is their duty, which part of their doctrines they take from
+the thirty-first chapter of Jeremiah.</p>
+
+<p>Their ceremonies are as follows:&mdash;The men sit on the left hand, squatting
+on the floor, with their knees up, and their hands clasped round them.
+Opposite, in the same posture, sit the women, whose appearance is most
+cadaverous and sepulchral, dressed in the Quaker costume. After sitting
+for some time in this hatching position, they all rise and sing a canting
+sort of hymn, during which the women keep time by elevating themselves on
+their toes. After the singing <a name="Page_60"></a>has ceased, a discourse is delivered by one
+of the elders; which being ended, the men pull off their coats and
+waistcoats. All being prepared, one of the brethren steps forward to the
+centre of the room, and in a loud voice, gives out a tune, beating time
+with his foot, and singing <i>lal lal la, lal lal la</i>, &amp;c., being joined by
+the whole group, all jumping as high as possible, clapping their hands,
+and at intervals twirling round,&mdash;but making rather ungraceful
+<i>pirouettes</i>: this exercise they continue until they are completely
+exhausted. In their ceremonials they much resemble the howling Dervishes
+of the Moslems, whom they far surpass in fanaticism.</p>
+
+<p>Within about ten miles of Cincinnati we took up an old doctor, who was
+going to that city for the purpose of procuring a warrant against one of
+his neighbours, who, he had reason to believe, was concerned in the
+kidnapping of a free negro the night before. This is by no means an
+uncommon occurrence in the free states bordering the great <a name="Page_61"></a>rivers. The
+unfortunate black man, when captured, is hurried down to the river, thrust
+into a flat boat, and carried to the plantations. Such negros are not
+exposed for sale in the public bazaars, as that would be attended with
+risk; but a false bill of sale is made out, and the sale is effected to
+some planter before they reach Orleans. There is, of course, always
+collusion between the buyer and seller, and the man is disposed of,
+generally, for half his value.</p>
+
+<p>These are certainly atrocious acts; yet when a British subject reads such
+passages as the following, in the histories of East India government, he
+must feel that if they were ten times as infamous and numerous as they are
+in reality, it becomes not <i>him</i> to censure them. Bolts, who was a judge
+of the mayor's court of Calcutta, says, in his &quot;Considerations on India
+Affairs,&quot; page 194, &quot;With every species of monopoly, therefore, every kind
+of oppression to manufacturers of all denominations throughout the whole
+country <a name="Page_62"></a>has daily increased; insomuch that weavers, for daring to sell
+their goods, and Dallals and Pykars, for having contributed to, or
+connived at, such sales, have by the <i>Company's agents,</i> been frequently
+seized and imprisoned, confined in irons, fined considerable sums of
+money, flogged, and deprived, in the most ignominious manner, of what they
+esteem most valuable, their castes. Weavers also, upon their inability to
+perform such agreements as have been <i>forced from them by the Company's
+agents</i>, universally known in Bengal by the name of <i>Mutchulcahs</i>, have
+had their goods seized and sold on the spot, to make good the deficiency:
+and the winders of raw silk, called <i>Nagaards</i>, have been treated also
+with such injustice, that instances have been known of their cutting off
+their thumbs, to prevent their being forced to wind silk. This last kind
+of workmen were pursued with such rigour, during Lord Clive's late
+government in Bengal, from a zeal for <i>increasing the Company's
+investment</i> of raw silk, that the most <a name="Page_63"></a>sacred laws of society were
+atrociously violated; for it was <i>a common thing for the Company's
+scapoys</i> to be sent by force of arms to break open the houses of the
+Armenian merchants established at Sydabad (who have from time immemorial
+been largely concerned in the silk trade), and forcibly take the
+<i>Nagaards</i> from their work, and carry them away to the English factory.&quot;</p>
+
+<p>As we approached Cincinnati the number of farms, and the extent of
+cultivated country, indicated the comparative magnitude of that city.
+Fields in this country have nothing like the rich appearance of those in
+England and Ireland, being generally filled with half-rotten stumps,
+scattered here and there among the growing corn, producing a most
+disagreeable effect. Then, instead of the fragrant quickset hedge, there
+is a &quot;worm fence&quot;&mdash;the rudest description of barrier known in the
+country&mdash;which consists simply of bars, about eight or nine feet in
+length, laid zig-zag on each other alternately: the <a name="Page_64"></a>improvement on this,
+and the <i>ne plus ultra</i> in the idea of a west country farmer, is what is
+termed a &quot;post and rail fence.&quot; This denomination of fence is to be seen
+sometimes in the vicinity of the larger towns, and is constructed of posts
+six feet in length, sunk in the ground to the depth of about a foot, and
+at eight or ten feet distance; the rails are then laid into mortises cut
+into the posts, at intervals of about thirteen or fourteen inches, which
+completes the work.</p>
+
+<p>Cincinnati is built on a bend of the Ohio river, which takes here a
+semicircular form, and runs nearly west; it afterwards flows in a more
+southerly direction. A complete chain of hills, sweeping from one point of
+the bend round to the other, encloses the city in a sort of amphitheatre.
+The houses are mostly brick, and the streets all paved. There are several
+spacious and handsome market houses, which on market days are stocked with
+all kinds of provisions&mdash;indeed I think the market of Cincinnati is very
+<a name="Page_65"></a>nearly the best supplied in the United States. There are many respectable
+public buildings here, such as a court-house, theatre, bazaar, (built by
+Mrs. Trollope, but the speculation failed), and divers churches, in which
+you may see well-dressed women, and hear orthodox, heterodox, and every
+other species of doctrine, promulgated and enforced by strength of lungs,
+and length of argument, with pulpit-drum accompaniment, and all other
+requisites <i>ad captandum vulgus</i>.</p>
+
+<p>The city stands on two plains: one called the bottom, extends about 260
+yards back from the river, and is three miles in length, from Deer Creek
+to Mill Creek; the other is fifty feet higher than the first, and is
+called the Hill; this extends back about a mile. The bottom is sixty-five
+feet above low water mark. In 1815 the population was estimated at 6000,
+and at present it is supposed to be upwards of 25,000 souls. By means of
+the Dayton canal, which runs from that town nearly parallel with the &quot;Big
+Miami&quot;<a name="Page_66"></a> river, a very extensive trade, for all kinds of produce, is
+established with the back country. Steamers are constantly arriving at,
+and departing from the wharf, on their passage up and down the river. This
+is one of the many examples to be met with in the western country, of
+towns springing into importance within the memory of comparatively young
+men&mdash;a log-house is still standing, which is shewn as the first habitation
+built by the backwoodsman, who squatted in the forest where now stands a
+handsome and flourishing city.</p>
+
+<p>On arriving at Cincinnati, I learned that my friend T&mdash;&mdash; had taken up his
+abode at a farm-house a few miles from town, where I accordingly repaired,
+and found him in good health, and initiated into all the manners, habits,
+customs, and diversions of the natives. Farming people in Ohio work hard.
+The women have no sinecures, being occupied the greater part of the day in
+cooking; as they breakfast at eight, dine at half-past <a name="Page_67"></a>twelve, and sup at
+six, and at each of these meals, meat, and other cooked dishes are served
+up. In farming they co-operate with each other. When a farmer wishes to
+have his corn husked, he rides round to his neighbours and informs them of
+his intention. An invitation of this kind was once given in my presence.
+The farmer entered the house, sat down, and after the customary
+compliments were passed, in the usual laconic style, the following
+dialogue took place. &quot;I guess I'll husk my corn to-morrow
+afternoon.&quot;&mdash;&quot;You've a mighty heap this year.&quot;&mdash;&quot;Considerable of corn.&quot;
+The host at length said, &quot;Well, I guess we'll be along&quot;&mdash;and the matter
+was arranged. All these gatherings are under the denomination of
+&quot;frolics&quot;&mdash;such as &quot;corn-husking frolic,&quot; &quot;apple-cutting frolic,&quot;
+&quot;quilting frolic,&quot; &amp;c.</p>
+
+<p>Being somewhat curious in respect to national amusements, I attended a
+&quot;corn-husking frolic&quot; in the neighbourhood of Cincinnati. The corn was
+heaped up into a <a name="Page_68"></a>sort of hillock close by the granary, on which the young
+&quot;Ohiohians&quot; and &quot;buck-eyes&quot;&mdash;the lasses of Ohio are called
+&quot;buck-eyes&quot;&mdash;seated themselves in pairs; while the old wives, and old
+farmers were posted around, doing little, but talking much. Now the laws
+of &quot;corn-husking frolics&quot; ordain, that for each red ear that a youth
+finds, he is entitled to exact a kiss from his partner. There were two or
+three young Irishmen in the group, and I could observe the rogues kissing
+half-a-dozen times on the same red ears. Each of them laid a red-ear close
+by him, and after every two or three he'd husk, up he'd hold the
+redoubtable red-ear to the astonished eyes of the giggling lass who sate
+beside him, and most unrelentingly inflict the penalty. The &quot;gude wives&quot;
+marvelled much at the unprecedented number of red-ears which that lot of
+corn contained: by-and-by, they thought it &quot;a kind of curious&quot; that the
+Irishmen should find so many of them&mdash;at length, the cheat was discovered,
+<a name="Page_69"></a>amidst roars of laughter. The old farmers said the lads were &quot;wide
+awake,&quot; and the &quot;buck-eyes&quot; declared that there was no being up to the
+plaguy Irishmen &quot;no how,&quot; for they were always sure to have every thing
+their own way. But the mischief of it was, the young Americans took the
+hint, and the poor &quot;buck-eyes&quot; got nothing like fair play for the
+remainder of that evening. All agreed that there was more laughing, and
+more kissing done at that, than had been known at any corn-husking frolic
+since &quot;the Declaration.&quot;</p>
+
+<p>The farmers of Ohio are a class of people about equivalent to our second
+and third rate farmer, inasmuch as they work themselves, but possessing
+infinitely more independence in their character and deportment. Every
+white male, who is a citizen of the United States, and has resided one
+year in the state, and paid taxes, has a vote. The members of the
+legislature are elected annually, and those of the senate biennially; half
+of the <a name="Page_70"></a>members of the latter branch vacating their seats every year. The
+representatives, in addition to the qualifications necessary to the
+elector, must be twenty-five years of age; and the senators must have
+resided in the state two years, and must be thirty years of age. The
+governor must be thirty years of age, an inhabitant of the state four
+years, and a citizen of the United States twelve years,&mdash;he is eligible
+only for six years in eight.</p>
+
+<p>Notwithstanding the numerous religious sects that are to be found in this
+country, there is nothing like sectarian animosity prevailing. This is to
+be attributed to the ministers of religion being paid as they deserve, and
+no one class of people being taxed to support the religious tenets of
+another.</p>
+
+<p>The farmers of this state are by no means religious, in a doctrinal sense;
+on the contrary, they appear indifferent on matters of this nature. The
+girls <i>sometimes</i> go to church, which here, as in all Christian countries,
+is <a name="Page_71"></a>equivalent to the bazaars of Smyrna and Bagdad; and as the girls go,
+their &quot;dads&quot; must pay the parson. The Methodists are very zealous, and
+have frequent &quot;revivals&quot; and &quot;camp-meetings.&quot; I was at two of the latter
+assemblages, one in Kentucky, and the other in Ohio. I shall endeavour to
+convey some idea of this extraordinary species of religious festival.</p>
+
+<p>To the right of Cheriot, which lies in a westerly direction, about ten
+miles from Cincinnati, under the shade of tall oak and elm trees, the camp
+was pitched in a quadrangular form. Three sides were occupied by tents for
+the congregation, and the fourth by booths for the preachers. A little in
+advance before the booths was erected a platform for the performing
+preacher, and at the foot of this, inclosed by forms, was a species of
+sanctuary, called &quot;the penitents' pen.&quot; People of every denomination might
+be seen here, allured by various motives. The girls, dressed in all
+colours of the rain<a name="Page_72"></a>bow, congregated to display their persons and
+costumes; the young men came to see the girls, and considered it a sort of
+&quot;frolic;&quot; and the old women, induced by fanaticism, and other motives,
+assembled in large numbers, and waited with patience for the proper season
+of repentance. At the intervals between the &quot;preachments,&quot; the young
+married and unmarried women promenaded round the tents, and their smiling
+faces formed a striking contrast to the demure countenances of their more
+experienced sisters, who, according to their age or temperament, descanted
+on the folly, or condemned the sinfulness of such conduct. Some of those
+old dames, I was informed, were decoy birds, who shared the profits with
+the preachers, and attended all the &quot;camp-meetings&quot; in the country.</p>
+
+<p>The psalmodies were performed in the true Yankee style of nasal-melody,
+and at proper and seasonable intervals the preachings were delivered. The
+preachers managed their tones and discourses admirably, <a name="Page_73"></a>and certainly
+displayed a good deal of tact in their calling. They use the most
+extravagant gestures&mdash;astounding bellowings&mdash;a canting hypocritical
+whine&mdash;slow and solemn, although by no means <i>musical</i> intonations, and
+the <i>et ceteras</i> that complete the qualifications of a regular
+camp-meeting methodist parson. During the exhortations the brothers and
+sisters were calling out&mdash;Bless God! glory! glory! amen! God grant! Jesus!
+&amp;c.</p>
+
+<p>At the adjournment for dinner, a knowing-looking gentleman was appointed
+to deliver an admonition. I admired this person much for the ingenuity he
+displayed in introducing the subject of collection, and the religious
+obligation of each and every individual to contribute largely to the
+support of the preacher and his brothers of the vineyard. He set forth the
+respectability of the county, as evinced by former contributions, and
+thence inferred, most logically, that the continuance of that respectable
+character depended on the amount of that day's col<a name="Page_74"></a>lection. A conversation
+took place behind me, during this part of the preacher's exhortation,
+between three young farmers, which, as being characteristic, I shall
+repeat.</p>
+
+<p>&quot;The old man is wide awake, I guess.&quot;</p>
+
+<p>&quot;I reckon he knows a thing or two.&quot;</p>
+
+<p>&quot;I calculate he's been on board a flat afore now.&quot;</p>
+
+<p>&quot;Yes, I guess a Yankee 'd find it damned hard to sell him <i>hickory</i>
+nutmegs.&quot;</p>
+
+<p>&quot;It'd take a pretty smart man to poke it on to a parson any how.&quot;</p>
+
+<p>&quot;I guess'd it'd come to dollars and cents in the end.&quot;</p>
+
+<p>After sunset the place was lighted up by beacon fires and candles, and the
+scene seemed to be changing to one of more deep and awful interest. About
+nine o'clock the preachers began to rally their forces&mdash;the candles were
+snuffed&mdash;fuel was added to the fires&mdash;clean straw was shook in the
+&quot;penitents' pen&quot;&mdash;and every movement &quot;gave dreadful note of preparation.&quot;
+At length the <a name="Page_75"></a>hour was sounded, and the faithful forthwith assembled. A
+chosen leader commenced to harangue&mdash;he bellowed&mdash;he roared&mdash;he whined&mdash;he
+shouted until he became actually hoarse, and the perspiration rolled down
+his face. Now, the faithful seemed to take the infection, and as if
+overcome by their excited feelings, flung themselves headlong on the straw
+into the penitents' pen&mdash;the old dames leading the way. The preachers, to
+the number of a dozen, gave a loud shout and rushed into the thick of the
+penitents. A scene now ensued that beggars all description. About twenty
+women, young and old, were lying in every direction and position, with
+caps and without caps, screeching, bawling, and kicking in hysterics, and
+profaning the name of Jesus. The preachers, on their knees amongst them,
+were with Stentorian voices exhorting them to call louder and louder on
+the Lord, until he came upon them; whilst their <i>attach&eacute;es,</i> with
+turned-up eyes and smiling countenances, were chanting hymns and shaking
+<a name="Page_76"></a>hands with the multitude. Some would now and then give a hearty laugh,
+which is an indication of superior grace, and is called &quot;the holy laugh.&quot;
+The scene altogether was highly entertaining&mdash;penitents, parsons, caps,
+combs, and straw, jumbled in one heterogeneous mass, lay heaving on the
+ground, and formed at this juncture a grouping that might be done justice
+to by the pencil of Hogarth, or the pen of the author of Hudibras; but of
+which I fear an inferior pen or pencil must fail in conveying an adequate
+idea.</p>
+
+<p>The women were at length carried off, fainting, by their friends, and the
+preachers began to prepare for another scene. From the time of those
+faintings, the &quot;new birth&quot; is dated, which means a spiritual resurrection
+or revival.</p>
+
+<p>The scene that followed appeared to be a representation of &quot;the Last
+Supper.&quot; The preachers assembled round a table, and acted as disciples,
+whilst one of them, the leader, <a name="Page_77"></a>presided. The bread was consecrated,
+divided and eaten&mdash;the wine served much after the same manner. The
+faithful, brothers and sisters, were now called upon to partake of the
+Sacrament&mdash;proper warning, however, being given to the gentlemen, that
+when the wine was handed to them, they were not to take a <i>drink</i>, as that
+was quite unnecessary, as a small sup would answer every purpose. One
+gentleman seemed to have forgotten this hint, and attempted to take rather
+more than a sup; but he was prevented by the administering preacher
+snatching the goblet from him with both hands. Many said they were obliged
+to substitute <i>brandy and water</i> for wine; but for this fact I cannot
+vouch. Another straw-tumbling scene now began; and, as if by way of
+variety, the inmates of five or six tents got up similar scenes among
+themselves. The preachers left the field to join the tenters; and, if
+possible, surpassed their previous exhibitions. The women were
+occasionally making confessions, <i>pro bono <a name="Page_78"></a>publico</i>, when sundry
+&quot;backslidings&quot; were acknowledged for the edification of the multitude. We
+left the camp about two o'clock in the morning, when these poor fanatics
+were still in full cry.</p>
+
+<p>At Hell Town, near this place, there was an officer's muster held about
+this time. Every citizen exercising the elective franchise is also
+eligible to serve in the militia. There are two general musters held every
+year in each county, and several company meetings. Previous to the general
+muster there is an officer's muster, when the captains and subalterns are
+put through their exercise by the field officers. At this muster, which I
+attended, the superior officers in command certainly appeared to be
+sufficiently conversant with tactics, and explained the rationale of each
+movement in a clear and concise manner; but the captains and subalterns
+went through their exercise somewhat in the manner of the yeomen of the
+Green Island. When the gentlemen were <a name="Page_79"></a>placed in line, and attention was
+commanded, the General turned round to converse with his coadjutors&mdash;no
+sooner had he done this than about twenty heroes squatted <i>a l' Indien;</i>
+no doubt deeming it more consistent, the day being warm, to sit than
+stand. On the commander observing this movement, which he seemed to think
+quite unmilitary, he remonstrated&mdash;the warriors arose; but, alas! the just
+man <i>falls</i> seven times a day, and the militia officers of Hamilton county
+seemed to think it not derogatory to their characters to <i>squat</i> five or
+six. The offence was repeated several times, and as often censured. They
+wheeled into battalions, and out of battalions, in most glorious
+disorder&mdash;their <i>straight</i> lines were <i>zig-zag.</i> In marching abreast, they
+came to a fence next the road&mdash;the tavern was opposite, and the temptation
+too great to be resisted&mdash;a number threw down their muskets&mdash;tumbled
+themselves over the fence, and rushed into the bar-room to refresh! An
+American's heart sickens at restraint, and <a name="Page_80"></a>nothing but necessity will
+oblige him to observe discipline.</p>
+
+<p>The question naturally arises, how would these forces resist the finely
+disciplined troops of Europe? The answer is short: If the Americans would
+consent to fight <i>&agrave; bataille rang&eacute;e</i> on one of the prairies of Illinois,
+undoubtedly the disciplined troops would prevail; but as neither their
+experience nor inclination is likely to lead them into such circumstances,
+my opinion is, that send the finest army Europe can produce into this
+country, in six months, the forests, swamps, and deadly rifle, united,
+will annihilate it&mdash;and let it be remembered, that at the battle of New
+Orleans, there were between two and three thousand British slain, and
+there were only twelve Americans killed, and perhaps double that number
+wounded. In patriotism and personal courage, the Americans are certainly
+not inferior to the people of any nation.</p>
+
+<p>There had been lately throughout the<a name="Page_81"></a> States a good deal of excitement
+produced by an attempt, made by the Presbyterians, to stop the mails on
+the sabbath. This party is headed by a Doctor Ely, of Philadelphia, a
+would-be &quot;lord spiritual,&quot; and they made this merely as a trial of
+strength, preparatory to some other measures calculated to lead to a
+church establishment. Their designs, however, have been detected, and
+measures accordingly taken to resist them. At a meeting at which I was
+present at Cincinnati, the people were most enthusiastic, and some very
+strong resolutions were passed, expressive of their abhorrence of this
+attempt to violate the constitution of America.</p>
+
+<p>Good farms within about three or four miles of Cincinnati, one-third
+cleared, are sold at from thirty to fifty dollars per acre. Cows sell at
+from ten to twenty dollars. Horses, at from twenty-five to seventy-five
+and one hundred dollars. Sheep from two to three dollars. There are some
+tolerable flocks of sheep throughout this state, but <a name="Page_82"></a>they are of little
+value beyond the price of the wool, a most unaccountable antipathy to
+mutton existing among the inhabitants.</p>
+
+<p>Whilst on the banks of Lake Erie, having heard a great deal of
+conversation about the &quot;lake fever,&quot; I made several inquiries from the
+inhabitants on that subject, the result of which confirmed me in the
+opinion, that the shores of the lakes are quite as healthy as any other
+part of the country, and that here, as elsewhere, the disease arises from
+stagnant pools, swamps, and masses of decayed animal and vegetable matter,
+which are allowed to remain and accumulate in the vicinity of settlements.
+When at New York, I met an old and wealthy farmer, who was himself,
+although eighty years of age, in the enjoyment of rude health. He informed
+me that he had resided in Canada, on the shores of Lake Erie, for the last
+fifty years, and that neither he nor any one of his family had ever been
+afflicted with fever of any description. The district in which he lived,
+was <a name="Page_83"></a>entirely free from local nuisances, and the inhabitants he
+represented as being as healthy as any in the United States.</p>
+
+<p>My observations, so far, lead me to conclude, that this climate agrees
+fully as well with Europeans as with the natives, indeed that the
+susceptibility to fever and ague is greater in the natives than in
+Europeans of good habits. The cause I conceive to be this: the early
+settlers had to encounter swamps of the most pestilential description, and
+dense forests through which the sun's rays had never penetrated, and which
+industry and cultivation have since made in a great measure to disappear.
+They notoriously suffered much from the ravages of malaria, and such as
+survived the baleful effects of this disease, escaped with impaired
+constitutions. Now this susceptibility to intermittent fever, appears to
+me to have been transmitted to their descendants, and to act as the
+predisposing cause. I have seen English and Irish people who have been <a name="Page_84"></a>in
+the country upwards of thirty years, who look just as you would expect to
+find persons of their age at home.</p>
+
+<p>There are situations evidently unhealthy, such as river bottoms, and the
+vicinity of creeks. The soil in those situations is alluvial, and its
+extreme fertility often induces unfortunate people to reside in them. The
+appearance of those persons in general is truly wretched.</p>
+
+<p>The women here, although they live as long as those in the old country,
+yet they fade much sooner, and, with few exceptions, have bad teeth.</p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;">
+<a name="CHAPTER_IV"></a><h2><a name="Page_85"></a>CHAPTER IV</h2>
+<br>
+
+<p>Having decided on visiting New Harmony, in Indiana, where our friend B&mdash;&mdash;
+had been for some time enjoying the delights of sylvan life, and the
+refinements of backwoods-society, T&mdash;&mdash; and I purchased a horse, and
+Dearborne, a species of light waggon used in this country for travelling.
+We furnished ourselves with a small axe, hunting knives, and all things
+necessary for encamping when occasion required, and so set out about the
+beginning of September.</p>
+
+<p>We crossed the Big-Miami river, and proceeded by a tolerable road, and
+some good farms, to Lawrenceburg, a handsome town on the Ohio, within a
+mile of the outlet <a name="Page_86"></a>of the Miami. From thence we drove on towards
+Wilmington; but our horse becoming jaded, we found it expedient to &quot;camp
+out,&quot; within some miles of that town. Next morning we passed through
+Wilmington, but lost the direct track through the forest, and took the
+road to Versailles, which lay in a more northerly direction than the route
+we had proposed to ourselves. This road was one of those newly cut through
+the forest, and there frequently occurred intervals of five or six miles
+between the settlements; and of the road itself, a tolerably correct idea
+may be formed by noting the stipulations made with the contractors, which
+are solely that the roads shall be of a certain width, and that no stump
+shall be left projecting more than <i>fifteen inches</i> above the ground.</p>
+
+<p>On the night of the second day we reached the vicinity of Versailles, and
+put up at the residence of a backwoodsman&mdash;a fine looking fellow, with a
+particularly ugly <i>squaw</i>. He had come from Kentucky five years
+<a name="Page_87"></a>before&mdash;sat down in the forest&mdash;&quot;built him&quot; a log-house&mdash;wielded his axe
+to the tune of &quot;The Hunters of Kentucky,&quot; and had now eighteen acres of
+cleared land, and all the <i>et ceteras</i> of a farm. We supped off
+venison-steaks and stewed squirrel. Our host told us that there was &quot;a
+pretty smart chance of deer&quot; in the neighbourhood, and that when he first
+&quot;located,&quot; &quot;there was a small sprinkling of <i>baar</i>&quot; (bear), but that at
+present nothing of the kind was to be seen. There was very little comfort
+in the appearance of this establishment; yet the good dame had a
+side-saddle, hung on a peg in one of the apartments, which would not have
+disgraced the lady of an Irish squireen. This appears to be an article of
+great moment in the estimation of West-country ladies, and when nothing
+else about the house is even tolerable, the side-saddle is of the most
+fashionable pattern.</p>
+
+<p>From Versailles, we took the track to Vernon, through a rugged and swampy
+road, <a name="Page_88"></a>it having rained the night before. The country is hilly, and
+interspersed with runs, which are crossed with some difficulty, the
+descents and ascents being very considerable. The stumps, &quot;corduroys&quot;
+(rails laid horizontally across the road where the ground is marshy)
+swamps, and &quot;republicans,&quot; (projecting roots of trees, so called from the
+stubborn tenacity with which they adhere to the ground, it being almost
+impossible to grub them up), rendered the difficulty of traversing this
+forest so great, that notwithstanding our utmost exertions we were unable
+to make more than sixteen miles from sunrise to sunset, when, both the
+horse and ourselves being completely exhausted, we halted until morning. I
+was awoke at sunrise by a &quot;white-billed woodpecker,&quot; which was making the
+woods ring by the rattling of its bill against a tree. This is a large
+handsome bird, (the <i>picus principalis</i> of Linnaeus), it is sometimes
+called here the wood-cock. Pigeons, squirrels, and turtle-<a name="Page_89"></a>doves abound in
+all these forests, and my friend being an expert gunner, we had always
+plenty of game for dinner. The morning was still grey when we set forward.</p>
+
+<p>We forded the Muskakituck river at Vernon, which stands on its head
+waters, and is a country seat. We then directed our course to Brownstown,
+on the east branch of White river. We found the roads still bad until we
+came within about ten miles of that place. There the country began to
+assume a more cultivated appearance, and the roads became tolerably good,
+being made through a sandy or gravelly district. In the neighbourhood of
+Brownstown there are some rich lands, and from that to Salem, a distance
+of twenty-two miles, we were much pleased with the country. We had been
+hitherto journeying through dense forests, and except when we came to a
+small town, could never see more than about ten yards on either side. All
+through Indiana the peaches were in great abundance this year, and such
+was the weight <a name="Page_90"></a>of fruit the trees had to sustain, that the branches were
+invariably broken where not propped.</p>
+
+<p>From Salem we took a westward track by Orleans to Hindostan, crossed the
+east branch of White river, and passed through Washington. At a short
+distance from this town, we had to cross White river again, near the west
+branch, which is much larger than the east branch. We attempted to ford
+it, and had got into the middle of the stream before we discovered that
+the bottom was quicksands. The horse was scared at the footing,&mdash;he
+plunged and broke the traces; however, after a tolerable wetting, we
+succeeded in getting safe out. A little above the place where we made the
+attempt, we found there was a ferry-flat. The ferryman considered our
+attempt as dangerous, for had we gone much further into the stream we
+should have shot into the quicksands in the deep current. This day the
+fates were most unpropitious to us; and had we had, like Socrates, a
+<a name="Page_91"></a>familiar demon at our elbow, he most assuredly would have warned us not
+to proceed. We had no sooner got into the ferry-flat, and pushed off from
+shore, than the horse tumbled overboard, carriage and all, and was with
+difficulty saved from drowning.</p>
+
+<p>We passed through Petersburg to Princeton; but having lost the track, and
+got into several <i>culs de sacs</i>, an occurrence which is by no means
+pleasant&mdash;as in this case you are unable to turn the carriage, and have no
+alternative but cutting down one or two small trees in order to effect a
+passage. After a great deal of danger and difficulty, we succeeded in
+returning on the true bridle-path, and arrived about ten at night in a
+small village, through which we had passed three hours before. The gloom
+and pitchy darkness of an American forest at night, cannot be conceived by
+the inhabitants of an open country, and the traversing a narrow path
+interspersed with stumps and logs is both fatiguing and dangerous. Our
+horse seemed <a name="Page_92"></a>so well aware of this danger, that whenever the night set
+in, he could not be induced to move, unless one of us walked a little in
+advance before him, when he would rest his nose on our arm and then
+proceed. We crossed the Potoka to Princeton, a neat town, surrounded by a
+fast settling country, and so on to Harmony.</p>
+
+<p>New Harmony is seated on the banks of the Wabash; and following the
+sinuosities of that river, it is distant sixty-four or five miles from the
+Ohio, but over land, not more than seventeen. This settlement was
+purchased by Messrs. Mac Clure and Owen from Mr. Rapp, in the year 1823.
+The Rappites had been in possession of the place for six years, during
+which they had erected several large brick buildings of a public nature,
+and sundry smaller ones as residences, and had cultivated a considerable
+quantity of land in the immediate vicinity of the town. Mr. Owen intended
+to have established here a community of union and mutual co-operation;
+but, <a name="Page_93"></a>from a too great confidence in the power of the system which he
+advocates, to <i>reform</i> character, he has been necessitated to abandon that
+design at present.</p>
+
+<p>Harmony must have been certainly a desirable residence when it was the
+abode of the many literary and scientific characters who composed a part
+of that short-lived community. A few of these still linger here, and may
+be seen stalking through the streets of Harmony, like Marius among the
+ruins of Carthage, deploring the moral desolation that now reigns in this
+once happy place.</p>
+
+<p>Le Seur, the naturalist, and fellow traveller of Peron, in his voyage to
+the Austral regions, is still here. The suavity of manners, and the
+scientific acquirements of this gentleman, command the friendship and
+esteem of all those who have the pleasure of his acquaintance. He has a
+large collection of specimens connected with natural history, which the
+western parts of this country yield in abundance. The advantages presented
+<a name="Page_94"></a>here for the indulgence of retired habits, form at present the only
+attractions sufficient to induce him to live out of <i>la belle France</i>.</p>
+
+<p>Mr. Thomas Say, of Philadelphia, who accompanied Major Long on his
+expedition to the Rocky Mountains, also resides here. He too is a recluse,
+and is now preparing a work on his favourite subject, natural history. His
+garden contains a tolerable collection of Mexican and other exotic plants.</p>
+
+<p>Harmony is built on the second bottom of the Wabash, and is perhaps half a
+mile from the river at low water, the first bottom being about that
+breadth. Mosquitos abound here, and are extremely troublesome. There are
+several orchards in the neighbourhood well stocked with apples, peaches,
+&amp;c.; and the soil being rich alluvion, the farms are productive&mdash;so much
+as fifty dollars per acre is asked for cleared land, close to the town.
+There is a great scarcity of money here, as in most parts of Indiana, and
+trade is chiefly carried on by barter. Pork, lard, corn, bacon, <a name="Page_95"></a>beans,
+&amp;c., being given, by the farmers, to the store-keepers, in exchange for
+dry goods, cutlery, crockery-ware, &amp;c. The store-keepers either sell the
+produce they have thus collected to river-traders, or forward it to New
+Orleans on their own account.</p>
+
+<p>We made an excursion down the river in true Indian style. Our party,
+consisting of four, equipped in a suitable manner, the weather being then
+delightfully warm, having stowed on board a canoe plenty of provisions,
+paddled down the Wabash. The scenery on the banks of this river is
+picturesque. The foliage in some places springs from the water's edge,
+whilst at other points it recedes, leaving a bar of fine white sand. The
+breadth of the Wabash, at Harmony, is about 200 yards, and it divides
+frequently on its course to the Ohio, forming islands of various degrees
+of beauty and magnitude. On one of these, about six miles from Harmony,
+called the &quot;Cut-off,&quot; we determined on encamping. Accordingly, we moored
+our <a name="Page_96"></a>canoe&mdash;pitched our tent&mdash;lighted our fire&mdash;bathed&mdash;and having
+acquired enormous appetites by exertion, commenced the very agreeable
+operation of demolishing our provisions. We roamed about that and an
+adjacent island, until evening, when we returned to regale. These islands
+are generally covered with &quot;cane brakes,&quot; and low brush wood, which
+renders it difficult to effect a passage across them. Cotton-wood, beech,
+maple, hickory, and white oak, are the trees in greatest abundance.
+Spice-wood, sassafras, and dittany, are also plenty. Of these a decoction
+is made, which some of the woods-people prefer to tea; but it is not in
+general repute. The paw-paw tree (<i>annona triloba</i>) produces a fruit
+somewhat resembling in taste and shape the fig-banana, but certainly much
+inferior to that delicious fruit. We saw several deer in the woods, and
+some cranes upon the shore. With smoking, &amp;c., we passed the evening, and
+then retired&mdash;not to bed, for we had none&mdash;but to a right good
+<a name="Page_97"></a>substitute, a few dry leaves strewn upon the ground&mdash;our heads covered by
+the tent, and at our feet a large fire, which we kept up the whole night.
+Thus circumstanced, we found it by no means disagreeable.</p>
+
+<p>We spent greater part of next day much after the manner of the preceding,
+and concluded that it would be highly irrational to shoot game, having
+plenty of provisions; yet I suspect our being too lazy to hunt, influenced
+us not a little in that philosophical decision.</p>
+
+<p>Whilst at Harmony, I collected some information relative to the failure of
+the community, and I shall here give a slight sketch of the result of my
+inquiries. I must observe that so many, and such conflicting statements,
+respecting public measures, I believe never were before made by a body of
+persons dwelling within limits so confined as those of Harmony. Some of
+the <i>ci-devant</i> &quot;communicants&quot; call Robert Owen a fool, whilst others
+brand him with still more <a name="Page_98"></a>opprobrious epithets: and I never could get two
+of them to agree as to the primary causes of the failure of that
+community.</p>
+
+<p>The community was composed of a heterogeneous mass, collected together by
+public advertisement, which may be divided into three classes. The first
+class was composed of a number of well-educated persons, who occupied
+their time in eating and drinking&mdash;dressing and promenading&mdash;attending
+balls, and <i>improving the habits</i> of society; and they may be termed the
+<i>aristocracy</i> of this Utopian republic. The second class was composed of
+practical co-operators, who were well inclined to work, but who had no
+share, or voice, in the management of affairs. The third and last class
+was a body of theoretical philosophers&mdash;Stoics, Platonics, Pythagoreans,
+Epicureans, Peripatetics, and Cynics, who amused themselves in <i>striking
+out plans</i>&mdash;exposing the errors of those in operation&mdash;caricaturing&mdash;and
+turning the whole proceedings into ridicule.</p><a name="Page_99"></a>
+
+<p>The second class, disliking the species of co-operation afforded them by
+the first class, naturally became dissatisfied with their inactivity&mdash;and
+the third class laughed at them both. Matters were in this state for some
+time, until Mr. Owen found the funds were completely exhausted. He then
+stated that the community should divide; and that he would furnish land,
+and all necessary materials, for operations, to such of them as wished to
+form a community apart from the original establishment. This intimation
+was enough. The first class, with few exceptions, retired, followed by
+part of both the others, and all exclaiming against Mr. Owen's conduct. A
+person named Taylor, who had entered into a distillery speculation with
+one of Mr. Owen's sons, seized this opportunity to get the control of part
+of the property. Mr. Owen became embarrassed. Harmony was on the point of
+being sold by the sheriff&mdash;discord prevailed, and co-operation ceased.</p><a name="Page_100"></a>
+
+<p>Of the many private and public charges brought against Mr. Owen, I shall
+only notice one. It is said that he invited people to throw up their
+establishments in other parts of America, and come to Harmony, conscious
+at the same time that the community could not succeed, and, indeed, not
+caring much about its success, having ultimately in view the increase of
+the value of his purchase, by collecting a number of persons together, and
+thus making a town&mdash;a common speculation in America. Whether these were
+his intentions or not, it is impossible for any man to assert or deny; but
+the fact is no less true, that such has been the result, and that the
+purchase has been increased in value by the failure of the community, so
+that <i>ultimately</i> he is not likely to lose anything by the experiment. As
+to Mr. Owen's statements in public, &quot;that he had been informed that the
+people of America were capable of governing themselves, and that he tried
+the experiment, and found they <a name="Page_101"></a>were not so,&quot;&mdash;and that &quot;the place having
+been purchased, it was necessary to get persons to occupy it.&quot; These
+constitute but an imperfect excuse for having induced the separation of
+families, caused many thriving establishments to be broken up, and even
+the ruin of some few individuals, who, although their capital was but
+small, yet having thrown it all into the common stock, when the community
+failed, found themselves in a state of complete destitution. These
+persons, then, forgetting the &quot;doctrine of circumstances,&quot; and everything
+but the result, and the promises of Mr. Owen, censured him in no measured
+language, and cannot be convinced of the purity of his intentions in
+<i>that</i> affair. Indeed, they have always at hand such a multiplicity of
+facts to prove that Mr. Owen himself mainly contributed to the failure,
+that one must be blinded by that partiality which so known a
+philanthropist necessarily inspires, not to be convinced that, however
+competent he may be to <a name="Page_102"></a>preach the doctrines of co-operation, he is
+totally incompetent to carry them into effect.</p>
+
+<p>But Mr. Owen has also declared in public that &quot;the New Harmony experiment
+succeeded beyond his most sanguine expectations.&quot; Now what may be his
+peculiar notions of success, the public are totally ignorant, as he did
+not think fit to furnish any explanation; but this the public do know,
+that between the former and the latter statement there is a slight
+discrepancy.</p>
+
+<p>Some of Mr. Owen's friends <i>in London</i> say, that every thing went on well
+at Harmony until he gave up the management&mdash;that is, that he governed the
+community for the first few weeks, the short period of its prosperity, and
+that it declined only from the time of his ceding the dictatorship. Now
+Mr. Owen <i>himself</i> says, that he only interfered when he observed they
+were going wrong; implying that he did not interfere in the commencement,
+but did so subsequently. These are contradictions which would require a
+good <a name="Page_103"></a>deal of mystification to reconcile in appearance. All the
+communicants whom I met in America, although they differed on almost every
+other point, yet agreed on this,&mdash;that Mr. Owen interfered from first to
+last during his stay at Harmony, and that at the time when he first
+quitted it nothing but discord prevailed.</p>
+
+<p>Very little experience of a residence in the backwoods convinced Mr. Owen
+that he was not in the situation most consonant with his feelings. He had
+been, when in Europe, surrounded by people who regarded him as an oracle,
+and received his <i>ipse dixit</i> as a sufficient solution for every
+difficulty. His situation at Harmony was very different; for most of the
+persons who came there had been accustomed to exercise their judgment in
+matters of practice, and this Mr. Owen is said not to have been able to
+endure. He would either evade, or refuse, answering direct questions,
+which naturally made men so accustomed to independence as the Ame<a name="Page_104"></a>ricans
+are, indignant. The usual answer he gave to any presuming disciple who
+ventured to request an explanation, was, that &quot;his young friend&quot; was in a
+total state of ignorance, and that he should therefore attend the lectures
+more constantly for the future. There is this peculiarity respecting the
+philosophy propounded by Mr. Owen, which is, that after a pupil has been
+attending his lectures for eighteen months, he (Mr. Owen) declares that
+the said pupil knows nothing at all about his system. This certainly
+argues a defect either in matter or manner.</p>
+
+<p>His followers appear not to be aware of the fact, that Mr. Owen has not
+originated a single new idea in his whole book, but has simply put forward
+the notions of Rousseau, Voltaire, Condorcet, Plato, Sir Thomas More, &amp;c.,
+in other language. His merit consists in this, and no small merit it is,
+that he has collated the ideas of these philosophers&mdash;arranged them in a
+tangible shape, and has devoted time and money to assist their
+dissemination.</p><a name="Page_105"></a>
+
+<p>I find on one of his cards, printed for distribution, the following
+axioms, in the shape of queries, set forth as being <i>his</i> doctrine,&mdash;not
+the doctrine which <i>he advocates</i>.</p>
+
+<p>&quot;Does it depend upon man to be born of such and such parents?</p>
+
+<p>&quot;Can he choose to take, or not to take, the opinions of his parents and
+instructors?</p>
+
+<p>&quot;If born of Pagan or Mahometan parents, was it in his power to become a
+Christian?&quot;</p>
+
+<p>These positions are laid down by Rousseau, in many passages of his works;
+but as one quotation will be sufficient to establish my assertion, I shall
+not trouble myself to look for others. He says, in his &quot;Lettre &agrave; M. de
+Beaumont,&quot; p. 124, &quot;A l'egard des objections sur les sectes particuli&eacute;res
+dans lesquelles l'universe est divis&eacute;, que ne puis-je leur donnez assez de
+force pour rendre chacun moins ent&eacute;t&eacute; de la sienne et moins ennemi des
+autres; pour porter chacque homme a l'indulgence, a la douceur, par cette
+consideration si frappante et si naturelle; que s'il fut <a name="Page_106"></a>n&eacute; dans un autre
+pays, dans une autre secte il prendrait infailliblement pour l'erreur ce
+qu'il prends pour la verit&eacute;, et pour la verit&eacute;, ce qu'il prends pour
+l'erreur.&quot;</p>
+
+<p>None but a man whose mind had been warped by the too constant
+contemplation of one particular subject, as Mr. Owen's mind has been
+warped by the eternal consideration of the Utopian republic, could suppose
+the practicability of carrying those plans into full effect during the
+existence of the present generation. He himself, whilst preaching to his
+handful of disciples the doctrine of perfect equality, is acting on quite
+different principles; and he has his new lecture-room divided into
+compartments separating the classes in society&mdash;thus proving that even his
+few followers are unprepared for such a change as he wishes to introduce
+into society, and that he finds the necessity of temporising even with
+<i>them</i>.</p>
+
+<p>Another proof of the variance there is between the theory and the practice
+of Mr.<a name="Page_107"></a> Owen, may be found in the constitution of his new community. The
+first article says, that, &quot;An annual subscription paid, of not less than
+one pound, constitutes <i>a member</i>, who is entitled to attend and <i>vote</i> at
+all public meetings of the association.&quot; These may be termed the
+twenty-shilling freeholders of the community.<a name="FNanchor_4_4"></a><a href="#Footnote_4_4"><sup>[4]</sup></a> Then follow the other
+grades and conditions. A donation of one hundred pounds, constitutes <i>a
+visitor</i> for life: a donation of five hundred pounds, <i>a vice-president</i>
+for life: and a donation of one thousand pounds, <i>a president</i>, who, &quot;in
+addition to the last-mentioned privileges,&quot; will enjoy many others of a
+valuable nature.</p>
+
+<p>King James sold two hundred baronetcies <a name="Page_108"></a>of the United Kingdom, for one
+thousand pounds each; and Mr. Owen offers an unlimited number of
+presidentships in his incipient Utopia on the same advantageous terms. I
+by no means dispute that the distinction Mr. Owen will confer on his
+purchasers may be quite as valuable, in his eyes and those of his
+disciples, as that conferred by King James; yet I cannot help suspecting,
+despite of the insatiable yearning the aristocracy have after
+vain-glorious titles, that few of them will come forward as candidates for
+his Utopian honours.</p>
+
+<p>FOOTNOTES:</p>
+
+<a name="Footnote_4_4"></a><a href="#FNanchor_4_4">[4]</a><div class="note"><p> Since writing the above, I find that the constitution has
+already undergone an essential change; but Mr. Owen appears to entertain
+views of reformation very different indeed from our present Whig
+administration, for he has actually placed both <i>members</i> and <i>visitors</i>
+in schedule (A) of <i>his</i> reform bill, and at one fell swoop has deprived
+this most deserving class of all political existence. None but
+vice-presidents and presidents have now the power of voting.</p></div>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;">
+<a name="CHAPTER_V"></a><h2><a name="Page_109"></a>CHAPTER V</h2>
+<br>
+
+<p>Having remained about a fortnight at Harmony, we made the necessary
+arrangements, and, accompanied by B&mdash;&mdash;, set out for St. Louis, in
+Missouri. We crossed the Wabash into Illinois, and proceeded to Albion,
+the settlement made by the late Mr. Birkbeck.</p>
+
+<p>Albion is at present a small insignificant town surrounded by prairies, on
+which there are several handsome farms. Messrs. Birkbeck and Flowers
+purchased large tracts of land in this neighbourhood, for the purpose of
+re-selling or letting it to English or other emigrants. These two
+gentlemen were of the class called in England, &quot;gentlemen <a name="Page_110"></a>farmers,&quot; and
+brought with them from that country very large capitals; a considerable
+portion of which, in addition to the money laid out on purchase, they
+expended on improvements. They are both now dead&mdash;their property has
+entirely passed into other hands, and the members of their families who
+still remain in this country are in comparative indigence.</p>
+
+<p>The most inveterate hostility was manifested by the backwoods people
+towards those settlers, and the series of outrages and annoyances to which
+they were exposed, contributed not a little to shorten their days. It at
+length became notorious that neither Birkbeck nor Flowers could obtain
+redress for any grievance whatever, unless by appealing to the superior
+courts,&mdash;as both the magistrates and jurors were exclusively of the class
+of the offenders; and the &quot;Supreme Court of the United States&quot; declared,
+that the verdicts of the juries, and the decisions of the magistrates
+were, in many <a name="Page_111"></a>cases, so much at variance with the evidences, that they
+were disgraceful to the country. A son of the latter gentleman, a lad
+about fourteen years old, was killed in open day whilst walking in his
+father's garden, by a blow of an axe handle, which was flung at him across
+the fence. The evidence was clear against the murderer, and yet he was
+acquitted. Whilst I was at Vandalia, I saw in a list of lands for sale,
+amongst other lots to be sold for taxes, one of Mr. Flowers'. The fate of
+these gentlemen and their families should be a sufficient warning to
+persons of their class in England, not to attempt settling <i>in the
+backwoods</i>; or if they have that idea, to leave aside altogether refined
+notions, and never to bring with them either the feelings or the habits of
+a <i>gentleman farmer</i>. The whole secret and cause of this <i>guerre &agrave; mort</i>,
+declared by the backwoodsmen against Messrs. Birkbeck and Flowers, was,
+that when they first settled upon the prairies, they attempted to act the
+<i>patron</i> and the <i>benefactor</i>, and con<a name="Page_112"></a>sidered themselves <i>entitled</i> to
+some respect. Now a west-country American would rather die like a cock on
+a dunghill, than be patronized after the English fashion; he is not
+accustomed to receive benefactions, and cannot conceive that any man would
+voluntarily confer favours on him, without expecting something in return,
+either in the shape of labour, or goods;&mdash;and as to respect, that has
+totally disappeared from his code since &quot;the Declaration.&quot;</p>
+
+<p>Mr. Birkbeck was called &quot;Emperor of the Prairies;&quot; and notwithstanding the
+hostility of his neighbours, he seems to have been much respected in the
+other parts of Illinois, as he was chosen secretary of state; and in that
+character he died, in 1825. He at last devoted himself entirely to gaining
+political influence, seeing that it was the duty of every man in a free
+country to be a politician, and that he who &quot;takes no interest in
+political affairs,&quot; must be a bad man, or must want capacity to act in the
+common occurrences of life.</p><a name="Page_113"></a>
+
+<p>From Albion we proceeded towards the Little Wabash; but had not got many
+miles from that town, when an accident occurred which delayed us some
+time. We were driving along through a wood of scrub-oak, or barren, when
+our carriage, coming in contact with a stump that lay concealed beneath
+high grass, was pitched into a rut&mdash;it was upset&mdash;and before we could
+recover ourselves, away went the horse dashing through the wood, leaving
+the hind wheels and body of the vehicle behind. He took the path we had
+passed over, and fortunately halted at the next corn-field. We repaired
+the damage in a temporary manner, and again set forward.</p>
+
+<p>After having crossed the Little Wabash, we had to pass through three miles
+of swamp frequently above our ancles in the mire, for the horse could
+scarcely drag the empty waggon. We at length came out on &quot;Hardgrove's
+prairie.&quot; The prospect which here presented itself was extremely
+gratifying to <a name="Page_114"></a>our eyes. Since I had left the little prairie in the
+Wyandot reserve, I had been buried in eternal forests; and,
+notwithstanding all the efforts one may make to rally one's spirits, still
+the heart of a European sickens at the sameness of the scene, and he
+cannot get rid of the idea of imprisonment, where the visible horizon is
+never more distant than five or six hundred yards. Yet this is the delight
+of an Indian or a backwoodsman, and the gloomy ferocity that characterizes
+these people is evidently engendered by the surrounding scenery, and may
+be considered as indigenous to the forest. Hardgrove's is perhaps the
+handsomest prairie in Illinois&mdash;before us lay a rich green undulating
+meadow, and on either side, clusters of trees, interspersed through this
+vast plain in beautiful irregularity&mdash;the waving of the high grass, and
+the distant groves rearing their heads just above the horizontal line,
+like the first glimpse of land to the weary navigator, formed a
+combination of ideas peculiar to the scene which lay before us.</p><a name="Page_115"></a>
+
+<p>With the exception of one or two miles of wood, occasionally, the whole of
+our journey through Illinois lay over prairie ground, and the roads were
+so level, that without any extraordinary exertion on the part of our
+horse, he carried us from thirty to forty miles a day.</p>
+
+<p>We next crossed the &quot;grand prairie,&quot; passing over the Indian trace.
+Although this is by no means so picturesque as Hardgrove's, yet the
+boundless prospect that is presented on first entering this prairie is far
+the more sublime&mdash;the ideas expand, and the imagination is carried far
+beyond the limits of the eye. We saw some deer scouring the plains, and
+several &quot;prairie wolves&quot; skulking in the high grass&mdash;this animal is
+sometimes destructive to sheep. The size is about that of our fox. Most
+farmers keep three or four hounds, which are trained to combat the wolf.
+The training is thus&mdash;a dead wolf is first shewn to a young dog, when he
+is set on to tear it; the next process is to muzzle a <a name="Page_116"></a>live wolf, and tie
+him to a stake, when the dog of course kills him; the last is, setting the
+dog on an unmuzzled wolf, which has been tied to a stake, with his legs
+shackled. The dog being thus accustomed to be always the victor, never
+fails to attack and kill the prairie wolf whenever he meets him.</p>
+
+<p>Within thirteen miles of Carlisle, we stopped at an inn, a solitary
+establishment, the nearest habitation being more than six miles distant.
+The landlord, Mr. Elliot, told us that he was unable to accommodate us
+with beds, as his house was already quite full; but that if we could
+dispense with beds, he would provide us with every thing else. Having no
+alternative, we of course acceded to his proposal. There was then holding
+at his house what is termed an &quot;inn fair,&quot; or the day after the wedding.
+The marriage takes place at the house of the bride's father, and the day
+following a party is given by the bridegroom, when he takes home his wife.
+The people here assembled had an extremely <a name="Page_117"></a>healthy appearance, and some
+of the girls were decidedly handsome, having, with fine florid
+complexions, regular features and good teeth. The landlord and his sons
+were very civil, as indeed were all the company there assembled.</p>
+
+<p>A great many respectable English yeomen have at different periods settled
+in Illinois, which has contributed not a little to improve the state of
+society; for the inhabitants of these prairies, generally speaking, are
+much more agreeable than those of most other parts of the western country.</p>
+
+<p>When the night was tolerably far advanced, the decks were cleared, and
+three feather beds were placed <i>seriatem</i> on the floor, on which a general
+scramble took place for berths&mdash;we wrapped ourselves in our cloaks, and
+lay seventeen in a bed until morning, when we arose, and went out to &quot;have
+a wash.&quot; The practice at all inns and boarding-houses throughout the
+western country, excepting at those in the more con<a name="Page_118"></a>siderable towns, is to
+perform ablutions gregariously, under one of the porches, either before or
+behind the house&mdash;thus attendance is avoided, and the interior is kept
+free from all manner of pollutions.</p>
+
+<p>An abundance of good stone-coal is found all through this state, of which
+I saw several specimens. Were it not for this circumstance, the difficulty
+of procuring wood for fuel and fencing, would more than counterbalance the
+advantages, in other respects, presented to settlers on the prairies.</p>
+
+<p>The average crops of Indian corn are about fifty bushels per acre, which
+when planted, they seldom plough or hoe more than once. In the bottom
+lands of Indiana and Ohio, from seventy to eighty bushels per acre is
+commonly produced, but with twice the quantity of labour and attention,
+independent of the trouble of clearing. There are two denominations of
+prairie: the upland, and the river or bottom prairie; the latter is more
+fertile than the former, having <a name="Page_119"></a>a greater body of alluvion, yet there are
+many of the upland prairies extremely rich, particularly those in the
+neighbourhood of the Wabash. The depth of the vegetable soil on some of
+those plains, has been found frequently to be from eighteen to twenty
+feet, but the ordinary depth is more commonly under five. The upland
+prairies are much more extensive than the river prairies, and are
+invariably free from intermittent fever&mdash;an exemption, which to emigrants
+must be of the utmost importance.</p>
+
+<p>Previous to our leaving Elliott's inn, we witnessed a chase of two wolves,
+which had the boldness to come to the sheep-pens close to the house.
+Unfortunately the dogs were not at hand, and the wolves escaped among the
+high grass. Mr. Elliott positively refused accepting of any compensation
+in lieu of our supper and lodging: he said he considered our lodging a
+thing not to be spoken of; and as to our supper&mdash;which by-the-by was a
+capital one&mdash;he had invited us to that.<a name="Page_120"></a> We merely paid for the horse,
+thanked him for his hospitality, and departed. During our journey through
+Indiana we had invariably to use persuasion, in order to induce the
+farmers to take money for either milk or fruit; and whenever we stayed at
+a farm-house, we never paid more than what appeared to be barely
+sufficient to cover the actual cost of what we consumed.</p>
+
+<p>At Carlisle, a village containing about a dozen houses, we got our vehicle
+repaired. We required a new shaft: the smith walked deliberately out&mdash;cast
+his eye on a rail of the fence close by, and in half an hour he had
+finished a capital shaft of white oak.</p>
+
+<p>The next town we came to was Lebanon, and we determined on staying there
+that evening, in order to witness a revival. They have no regular places
+of worship on the prairies, and the inhabitants are therefore subject to
+the incursions of itinerant preachers, who migrate annually, in swarms,
+from the more thickly settled districts. There ap<a name="Page_121"></a>peared to be a great
+lack of zeal among the denizens of Lebanon, as notwithstanding the
+energetic exhortations of the preachers, and their fulminating
+denunciations against backsliders, they failed in exciting much
+enthusiasm. The meeting ended, as is customary on such occasions, by a
+collection for the preachers, who set out on horseback, next morning, to
+levy contributions on another body of the natives.</p>
+
+<p>From Lebanon we proceeded across a chain of hills, and came in on a
+beautiful plain, called the &quot;American bottom.&quot; Some of those hills were
+clear to the summit, while others were crowned with rich foliage. Before
+us, to the extreme right, were six or seven tumuli, or &quot;Indian mounds;&quot;
+and to the left, and immediately in front, lay a handsome wood. From the
+hills to the river is about six miles; and this space appears evidently to
+have been a lake at some former period, previous to the Mississippi's
+flowing through its present deep channel. Several stagnant ponds lay by
+our road; sufficient <a name="Page_122"></a>indications of the presence of disease, which this
+place has the character of producing in abundance. The beauty of the spot,
+and the fertility of the soil, have, notwithstanding, induced several
+English families to settle here. Their houses are built of brick, and
+their gardens and farms are laid out and fenced tastefully.</p>
+
+<p>After traversing the wood, we at length came in sight of the Mississippi,
+which is here about three quarters of a mile broad. There is a steam
+ferry-boat stationed at this point, (opposite St. Louis), the construction
+of which is rather singular. It is built nearly square, having in the
+middle a house containing two spacious apartments, and on each side decks,
+on which stand horses, oxen, waggons and carriages of every description.</p>
+
+<p>St. Louis is built on a bluff bank. The <i>principal</i> streets rise one above
+the other, running parallel with the river; the houses are mostly built of
+stone, the bank being entirely composed of that material, the walls
+whitewashed, and the roofs covered with tin:<a name="Page_123"></a> from the opposite side it
+presents a very gay appearance. The ascent from the water's edge to the
+back of the town is considerable, but regular. The streets intersect each
+other at right angles, as do those of most American towns. They are much
+too narrow, having been laid down and built on from a plan designed by the
+Spanish commandant, previous to the Missouri territory becoming part of
+the United States. The population is estimated at six thousand, composed
+of Creole-French, Irish, and Americans.</p>
+
+<p>St. Louis must, at some future period, become decidedly the most important
+town in the western country, from its local and relative situation. It is
+seated on the most favourable point below the mouths of two noble rivers,
+the Missouri and the Illinois,<a name="FNanchor_5_5"></a><a href="#Footnote_5_5"><sup>[5]</sup></a> having at its back an immense tract of
+fertile country, and open and easy communi<a name="Page_124"></a>cation with the finest parts of
+the western and north-western territories. These advantages, added to the
+constant and uninterrupted intercourse which it enjoys with the southern
+ports, must ultimately make St. Louis a town of wealth and magnitude.</p>
+
+<p>We visited General Clarke's museum, which chiefly contains Indian costumes
+and implements of war, with some minerals and fossils, a portion of which
+he collected while on the expedition to the Rocky mountains with Lewis;
+and also, two sods of good black turf, from the bogs of Allen, in Ireland.
+A sight which was quite exhilarating, and reminded me so strongly of the
+fine odour which exhales from the products of illicit distillation, that
+guagers and potteen, like the phantoms of hallucination, were presenting
+themselves continually to my imagination for the remainder of that day.</p>
+
+<p>General Clarke is a tall, robust, grey-headed old man, with beetle-brows,
+and uncouthly aspect: his countenance is ex<a name="Page_125"></a>pressive of anything but
+intelligence; and his celebrity is said to have been gained principally by
+his having been the <i>companion</i> of Lewis to the Rocky mountains.</p>
+
+<p>The country around St. Louis is principally prairie, and the soil
+luxuriant. There are many excellent farms, and some fine herds of cattle,
+in the neighbourhood: yet the supply of produce seems to be insufficient,
+as considerable quantities are imported annually from Louisville and
+Cincinnati. The principal lots of ground in and near the town are at the
+disposal of some five or six individuals, who, having thus created a
+monopoly, keep up the price. This, added to the little inducement held out
+to farming people in a slave state, where no man can work himself without
+losing <i>caste</i>, has mainly contributed to retard the increase of
+population and prosperity in the neighbourhood of St. Louis.</p>
+
+<p>There are two fur companies established here. The expeditions depart early
+in <a name="Page_126"></a>spring, and generally return late in autumn. This trade is very
+profitable. A person who is at present at the head of one of those
+companies, was five years ago a bankrupt, and is now considered wealthy.
+He bears the character of being a regular Yankee; and if the never giving
+a direct answer to a plain question constitutes a Yankee, he is one most
+decidedly. We had some intention of crossing to Santa F&eacute;, in New Mexico,
+and we accordingly waited on him for the purpose of making some inquiries
+relative to the departure of the caravans; but to any of the plain
+questions we asked, we could not get a satisfactory answer,&mdash;at length,
+becoming tired of hedge-fighting, we departed, with quite as much
+information as we had before the interview.</p>
+
+<p>A trapping expedition is being fitted out for the Rocky mountains, on an
+extensive scale. The number of persons intended to be employed on this, is
+about two hundred. Teams for the transportation of merchandize <a name="Page_127"></a>and
+luggage are preparing, which is an accommodation never enjoyed before by
+trappers, as pack-horses have always hitherto been substituted. These
+waggons may also be found useful as <i>barricades</i>, in case of an attack
+from the Indians. The expedition will be absent two or three years.</p>
+
+<p>A trade with Santa F&eacute; is also established. In the Spanish country the
+traders receive, in exchange for dry goods and merchandize of every
+description, specie, principally; which makes money much more plentiful
+here than in any other town in the western country.</p>
+
+<p>The caravans generally strike away, near the head waters of the Arkansas
+and Red rivers, to the south-west, close to the foot of the Rocky
+mountains&mdash;travelling above a thousand miles through the Indian country
+before they reach the Mexican boundary. These journeys are long and
+tedious, and require men of nerve and muscle to undertake them; the
+morasses and rivers which <a name="Page_128"></a>they have to cross&mdash;the extensive prairies and
+savannahs they have to traverse, and the dense forests to penetrate, are
+sufficient to subdue any but iron constitutions.</p>
+
+<p>The countries west of the Mississippi are likely to be greatly enriched by
+the trade with Mexico; as, in addition to the vast quantities of valuable
+merchandize procured from that country, specie to a very large amount is
+put in circulation, which to a new country is of incalculable advantage.
+The party which lately returned to Fayette in Missouri, brought 200,000
+dollars in specie.</p>
+
+<p>The lead-mines of Galena and Potosi inundate St. Louis with that metal.
+The latter mines are extensive, consisting of forty in number, and are
+situated near the head of Big-river, which flows into the Merrimac: a
+water transportation is thus effected to the Mississippi, eighteen miles
+below St. Louis. This, however, is only in the spring and fall, as at
+other seasons the Merrimac is not navigable for common-sized boats, at a
+greater <a name="Page_129"></a>distance than fifty miles from its mouth. The Merrimac is upwards
+of 200 miles in length, and at its outlet it is about 200 yards in
+breadth.</p>
+
+<p>The principal buildings in St. Louis are, the government-house, the
+theatre, the bank of the United States, and three or four Catholic and
+Protestant churches. The Catholic is the prevalent religion. There are two
+newspapers published here. Caf&eacute;s, billiard tables, dancing houses, &amp;c.,
+are in abundance.</p>
+
+<p>The inhabitants of St. Louis more resemble Europeans in their manners and
+habits than any other people I met with in the west. The more wealthy
+people generally spend some time in New Orleans every year, which makes
+them much more sociable, and much less <i>brusque</i> than their neighbours.</p>
+
+<p>We visited Florissant, a French village, containing a convent and a young
+ladies' seminary. The country about this place pleased us much. We passed
+many fine <a name="Page_130"></a>farms&mdash;through open woodlands, which have much the appearance
+of domains&mdash;and across large tracts of sumach, the leaves of which at this
+season are no longer green, but have assumed a rich crimson hue. The
+Indians use these leaves as provision for the pipe.</p>
+
+<p>We stayed for eight days at a small village on the banks of the
+Mississippi, about six miles below St. Louis, and four above Jefferson
+barracks, called Carondalet, or, <i>en badinage, &quot;vide poche.&quot;</i> The
+inhabitants are nearly all Creole-French, and speak a miserable <i>patois</i>.
+The same love of pleasure which, with bravery, characterizes the French
+people in Europe, also distinguishes their descendants in Carondalet.
+Every Saturday night <i>les garcons et les filles</i> meet to dance quadrilles.
+The girls dance well, and on these occasions they dress tastefully. These
+villagers live well, dress well, and dance well, but have
+miserable-looking habitations; the house of a Frenchman being always a
+secondary consideration. At one of those <a name="Page_131"></a>balls I observed a very pretty
+girl surrounded by gay young Frenchmen, with whom she was flirting in a
+style that would not have disgraced a belle from the <i>Faubourg St. Denis</i>,
+and turning to my neighbour, I asked him who she was; he replied, &quot;Elle
+s'appelle Louise Constant, monsieur,&mdash;c'est la rose de village.&quot; Could a
+peasant of any other nation have expressed himself so prettily, or have
+been gallant with such a grace?</p>
+
+<p>Accompanied by our landlord, we visited Jefferson barracks. The officer to
+whom we had an introduction not being <i>chez-lui</i> at that time, we were
+introduced to some other officers by our host, who united in his single
+person the triple capacity of squire, or magistrate, newspaper proprietor,
+and tavern-keeper. The officers, as may be expected, are men from every
+quarter of the Union, whose manners necessarily vary and partake of the
+character of their several states.</p>
+
+<p>The barracks stand on the bluffs of the Mississippi, and, with the river's
+bank, they <a name="Page_132"></a>form a parallelogram&mdash;the buildings are on three sides, and
+the fourth opens to the river; the descent from the extremity of the area
+to the water's edge is planted with trees, and the whole has a picturesque
+effect. These buildings have been almost entirely erected by the soldiers,
+who are compelled to work from morning till night at every kind of
+laborious employment. This arrangement has saved the state much money; yet
+the propriety of employing soldiers altogether in this manner is very
+questionable. Desertions are frequent, and the punishment hitherto
+inflicted for that crime has been flogging; but Jackson declares now that
+shooting must be resorted to. The soldiers are obliged to be servilely
+respectful to the officers, <i>pulling off</i> the undress cap at their
+approach. This species of discipline may be pronounced inconsistent with
+the institutions of the country, yet when we come to consider the
+materials of which an <i>American</i> regular regiment is composed, we shall
+find the difficulty of <a name="Page_133"></a>producing order and regularity in such a body much
+greater than at first view might be apprehended. In this country any man
+who wishes to work may employ himself profitably, consequently all those
+who sell their liberty by enlisting must be the very dregs of society&mdash;men
+without either character or industry&mdash;drunkards, thieves, and culprits who
+by flight have escaped the penitentiary, and enlisted under the impression
+that the life of a soldier was one of idleness; in which they have been
+most grievously mistaken. When we take these facts into consideration, the
+difficulty of managing a set of such fellows will appear more than a
+little. Yet unquestionably there are individuals among the officers whose
+bearing is calculated to inspire any thing but that respect which they so
+scrupulously exact, and without which they declare it would be impossible
+to command. The drillings take place on Sundays.</p>
+
+<p>Near Carondalet we visited two slave-holders, who employed slaves in
+agriculture; <a name="Page_134"></a>which practice experience has shewn in every instance to be
+unprofitable. One had thirteen; and yet every thing about his house rather
+indicated poverty than affluence. These slaves lived in a hut, among the
+outhouses, about twelve feet square&mdash;men, women, and children; and in
+every respect were fully as miserable and degraded in condition as the
+unfortunate wretches who reside in the lanes and alleys of St. Giles' and
+Spitalfields, with this exception, that <i>they</i> were well fed. The other
+slave-holder, brother of the former, lived much in the same manner;&mdash;but
+it is necessary to observe that both these persons were hunters, and that
+hunters have nothing good in their houses but dogs and venison.</p>
+
+<p>T&mdash;&mdash; having gone on a hunting excursion with our host, and some of his
+friends, B&mdash;&mdash; and I drove the ladies to the plantation of the latter
+gentleman. He had a farm on the bluffs, which was broken and irregular, as
+is always the case in those situations. Large <a name="Page_135"></a>holes, called &quot;sink-holes,&quot;
+are numerous along these banks; the shape of them is precisely that of an
+inverted cone, through the apex of which the water sinks, and works its
+way into the river. Cedar trees grow on the rocks, and the scenery is in
+many places extremely grand. Wild-geese congregate in multitudes on the
+islands in the Mississippi, and at night send forth the most wild and
+piercing cries.</p>
+
+<p>Our hostess was one of those sylvan Amazons who could handle any thing,
+from the hunting-knife to the ponderous axe; and she dressed in the true
+sylph-like costume of the backwoods. Her <i>robe</i>, which appeared to be the
+only garment with which she encumbered herself, fitted her, as they say at
+sea, &quot;like a purser's shirt on a handspike,&quot; and looked for all the world
+like an inverted sack, with appropriate apertures cut for head and arms;
+she wore shoes, in compliment to her guests&mdash;her hair hung about her
+shoulders in true Indian style; and altogether she was <a name="Page_136"></a>a genuine sample
+of backwoods' civilization. We were placed in a good bed&mdash;the state-bed of
+course&mdash;and as we lay, paid our devotions to Urania, and contemplated the
+beauties of the starry firmament, through an aperture in the roof which
+would have admitted a jackass.</p>
+
+<p>The proprietor assured us that his slaves produced him no more than the
+bare interest of the money invested in their purchase, and that he was a
+slave-holder not from choice, but because it was the prevailing practice
+of the country. He said he had two handsome Mulatto girls hired out at the
+barracks for six dollars per month each.</p>
+
+<p>In St. Louis there were seven Indian chiefs, hostages from the Ioway
+nation. Their features were handsome&mdash;with one exception, they had all
+aquiline noses&mdash;they were tall and finely proportioned, and altogether as
+fine-looking fellows as I ever saw. The colour of these Indians was much
+redder than that of any others I had seen; their <a name="Page_137"></a>heads were shaven, with
+the exception of a small stripe, extending from the centre of the
+crown back to the <i>organ of philoprogenitiveness</i>&mdash;the gallant
+scalping-lock&mdash;which was decorated with feathers so as somewhat to
+resemble the crest of a Greek or Roman helmet. Their bodies were uncovered
+from the waist upwards, except when they wore blankets, a modern
+substitute for the buffalo-robe, which they commonly wore over the left
+shoulder, leaving the right arm and breast bare. The Ioways are a nation
+dwelling in the Missouri territory, and these hostages delivered
+themselves up pending the investigation of an affray that had taken place
+between their people and the backwoodsmen.</p>
+
+<p>The day previous to our departure from St. Louis, the investigation took
+place in the Museum, which is also the office of Indian affairs. There
+were upwards of twenty Indians present, including the hostages. The charge
+made against these unfortunate people <a name="Page_138"></a>and on which they had been obliged
+to come six or seven hundred miles, to stand their trial before <i>white
+judges</i>, was, &quot;that the Ioways had come down on the white
+territory&mdash;killed the cattle, and attacked the settlers, by which attack
+four citizens lost their lives.&quot; The principal chief implicated in the
+affair, named &quot;Big-neck,&quot; was called upon for his defence. In the person
+of this man there was nothing remarkable. He advanced into the centre of
+the room, and disengaging his right arm from the blanket, shook hands with
+the judges, and then, in succession, with all the officers of the court.
+This ceremony being ended, he paused, and drawing himself up to his full
+height, extended his arm forward towards the judge, and inclining his head
+a little in the same direction, said, &quot;If I had done that of which my
+white brother accuses me, I would not stand here now. The words of my
+red-headed father (General Clarke) have passed through both my ears, and I
+have remem<a name="Page_139"></a>bered them. I am accused, and I am not guilty.&quot; (The
+interpreter translated each sentence as it was delivered, and gave it as
+nearly verbatim as possible&mdash;observe, the pronoun I is here used
+figuratively, for <i>his party, and for the tribe</i>). &quot;I thought I would come
+down to see my red-headed father, to hold a talk with him.&mdash;I come across
+the line (boundary)&mdash;I see the cattle of my white brother dead&mdash;I see the
+Sauk kill them in great numbers&mdash;I said that there would be trouble&mdash;I
+turn to go to my village&mdash;I find I have no provisions&mdash;I say, let us go
+down to our white brother, and trade our powder and shot for a little&mdash;I
+do so, and again turn upon my tracks, until I reach my village.&quot;&mdash;He here
+paused, and looking sternly down the room, to where two Sauks sat, pointed
+his finger at them and said, &quot;The Sauk, who always tells lie of me, goes
+to my white brother and says&mdash;the Ioway has killed your cattle. When the
+lie (the Sauk) had talked thus to my white brother, he comes, thirty, <a name="Page_140"></a>up
+to my village&mdash;we hear our brother is coming&mdash;we are glad, and leave our
+cabins to tell him he is welcome&mdash;but while I shake hands with my white
+brother,&quot; he said, pointing to his forehead, &quot;my white brother shoots me
+through the head&mdash;my best chief&mdash;three of my young men, a squaw and his<a name="FNanchor_6_6"></a><a href="#Footnote_6_6"><sup>[6]</sup></a>
+child. We come from our huts unarmed&mdash;even without our blankets&mdash;and yet,
+while I shake hands with my white brother, he shoots me down&mdash;my best
+chief. My young men within, hear me shot&mdash;they rush out&mdash;they fire on my
+white brother&mdash;he falls, four&mdash;my people fly to the woods without their
+rifles.&quot; He then stated that four more Indians died in the forest of cold
+and starvation, fearing to return to their villages, and being without
+either blankets or guns. At length returning, and finding that their
+&quot;great chiefs&quot; had delivered themselves up, he came to stand his trial.</p>
+<a name="Page_141"></a>
+<p>The next person called was an old chief, named &quot;Pumpkin,&quot; who corroborated
+the testimony of &quot;Big-Neck,&quot; but had not been with the party when the
+Sauks were seen killing the cattle. When he came to that part of the story
+where the Indian comes from his wig-wam to meet the white man, he said,
+nearly in the same words used by Big-neck, &quot;While I shake hands with my
+white brother, my white brother shoots me down&mdash;my best chief&quot;&mdash;he here
+paused, and lifting his eyes above the heads of the auditors, his lip
+curling a little, but resuming again, almost immediately, its natural
+position, he pronounced in a low but distinct guttural tone, the Indian
+word meaning &quot;<i>my</i> son.&quot; His eye seemed fixed for a few seconds, and then,
+as if conscious of his weakness, and that the eyes of the great warriors
+of his tribe were upon him, he looked slowly round in a kind of solemn
+triumph, and resumed his tale. There was a strong feeling excited in the
+court by the misfortune of this old <a name="Page_142"></a>man, for the &quot;best chief&quot; of the
+Ioways was his <i>only</i> son. The court asked the chiefs what they thought
+should be done in the matter? They spoke a few words to each other, and
+then answered promptly, that all they required was, that their white
+brother should be brought down also, and confronted with them. The
+prisoners were set at liberty on their parole.</p>
+
+<p>Nothing could have been more respectable than the silence and gravity of
+the Indians during the investigation. The hostages particularly, were
+really imposing in their appearance; an air of solemnity overspread their
+manly countenances, whilst their eyes bespoke that unquailing spirit which
+the habits and vicissitudes of a sylvan life are calculated rather to
+raise than depress. The Indians, when uncontaminated by the vices of the
+whites, are really a fine people; and it is melancholy to reflect that in
+a few centuries the red-man will be known only by name, for his total
+extinction seems almost inevitable.</p><a name="Page_143"></a>
+
+<p>The upshot of this affair proved that the Indians' statement was correct,
+and a few presents was then thought sufficient to compensate the tribe for
+this most unwarrantable outrage.</p>
+
+<p>The fact of the prisoners being set free on their parole, proves the high
+character they maintain with the whites. An officer who had seen a great
+deal of service on the frontiers, assured me that, from <i>experience</i>, he
+had rather fall into the hands of the Indians, than of the
+backwoodsmen.<a name="FNanchor_7_7"></a><a href="#Footnote_7_7"><sup>[7]</sup></a> Once, while crossing one of the immense prairies in the<a name="Page_144"></a>
+Missouri territory during the winter season, this gentleman, Mr. R&mdash;&mdash;,
+was seized with rheumatic pains, and unable to proceed. His party,
+consisting only of a few men, had no provisions, nor had they any means of
+taking him with them, being completely exhausted themselves&mdash;he was left
+on the plains to die. An old Indian chief, of one of the hostile tribes,
+chanced to find him; he carried him home, and nourished him until he was
+sufficiently recovered to eat with the warriors; when they came to the hut
+of his host, in order as they said to do honour to the unfortunate white
+chief. He remained in their village for two months; at the expiration of
+which time, being sufficiently recovered, they conducted him to the
+frontiers, took their leave, and retired.</p>
+
+<p>Clements Burleigh, who resided thirty years in the United States, says, in
+his &quot;Advice to Emigrants,&quot; &quot;It may be objected by some that it is
+dangerous to go to the frontier country, on account of the<a name="Page_145"></a> Indians, wild
+beasts, &amp;c.; this is no more than a scarecrow. Indians in time of peace
+are perfectly inoffensive, and every dependence may be placed on them. If
+you call at their huts, you are invited to partake of what they have&mdash;they
+even will divide with you the last morsel they have, if they were starving
+themselves; and while you remain with them you are perfectly safe, as
+every individual of them would lose his life in your defence. This
+unfortunate portion of the human race has not been treated with that
+degree of justice and tenderness which people calling themselves
+Christians ought to have exercised towards them. Their lands have been
+forcibly taken from them in many instances without rendering them a
+compensation; and in their wars with the people of the United States, the
+most shocking cruelties have been exercised towards them. I myself fought
+against them in two campaigns, and was witness to scenes a repeti<a name="Page_146"></a>tion of
+which would chill the blood, and be only a monument of disgrace to people
+of my own colour.</p>
+
+<p>&quot;Being in the neighbourhood of the Indians during the time of peace, need
+not alarm the emigrant, as the Indian will not be as dangerous to him as
+idle vagabonds that roam the woods and hunt. He has more to dread from
+these people of his own colour than from the Indians.&quot;</p>
+
+<p>FOOTNOTES:</p>
+
+<a name="Footnote_5_5"></a><a href="#FNanchor_5_5">[5]</a><div class="note"><p> Eighteen miles below the mouth of the Missouri, and
+thirty-six below that of the Illinois.</p></div>
+
+<a name="Footnote_6_6"></a><a href="#FNanchor_6_6">[6]</a><div class="note"><p> In the Indian tongue there is no distinction of masculine or
+feminine gender, but simply of animate and inanimate beings.</p></div>
+
+<a name="Footnote_7_7"></a><a href="#FNanchor_7_7">[7]</a><div class="note"><p> &quot;The freedom of manners, and the uncertainty of life, from
+the various hazards to which it is inevitably exposed, imparts to the
+character of savages a species of liberality, under which are couched many
+benevolent principles; a respect for the aged, and in several instances a
+deference to their equals. The natural coldness of their temperament,
+admits of few outward demonstrations of civility. They are, however,
+affable in their mode, and are ever disposed to show towards strangers,
+and particularly towards the unfortunate, the strongest marks of
+hospitality. A savage will seldom hesitate to share with a fellow-creature
+oppressed by hunger, his last morsel of provisions.&quot;&mdash;Vide <i>Heriot</i>, p.
+318.</p></div>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;">
+<a name="CHAPTER_VI"></a><h2><a name="Page_147"></a>CHAPTER VI</h2>
+<br>
+
+<p>On our return to Illinois from Missouri, we visited the tumuli in the
+&quot;American bottom,&quot; for the purpose of more closely investigating the form
+and disposition of these sepulchral mounds. Their shape is invariably
+hemispherical, or of the <i>mam&eacute;lle</i> form. Throughout the country, from the
+banks of the Hudson to a considerable distance beyond the Mississippi,
+tumuli, and the remains of earthen fortifications were dispersed. Those of
+the former which have been removed, were found to contain human bones,
+earthen vessels, and utensils composed of alloyed metal; which latter fact
+is worthy of particular notice, as none of the Indians of North America
+are <a name="Page_148"></a>acquainted with the art of alloying. The vessels were generally of
+the form of drinking cups, or ewer-shaped cans, sometimes with a flange to
+admit a cover. One of those which I saw in a museum at Cincinnati, had
+three small knobs at the bottom on which it stood, and I was credibly
+informed that a dissenting clergyman, through the <i>esprit de metier</i>,
+undertook to prove from the circumstance, that the people who raised these
+mounds and fortifications must have been acquainted with the doctrine of
+the Trinity. How far the reverend gentleman is correct in his inference, I
+leave for theologians to decide.</p>
+
+<p>The Indians do not claim the mounds as depositories for <i>their</i> dead, but
+are well aware of their containing human bones. They frequently encamp
+near them, and visit them on their journeys, but more as land marks than
+on any other account. They approach them with reverence, as they do all
+burial places, no matter of what people or nation. The<a name="Page_149"></a> Quapaws have a
+tradition, that they were raised &quot;many hundred snows&quot; ago, by a people
+that no longer exists; they say, that in those days game was so plenty
+that very little exertion was necessary to procure a subsistence, and
+there were then no wars&mdash;these happy people having then no employment,
+collected, merely for sport, these heaps of earth, which have ever since
+remained, and have subsequently been used by another people, who succeeded
+them, as depositories of their dead. Another tradition is, that they were
+erected by the Indians to protect them from the mammoths, until the Great
+Spirit took pity on his red children, and annihilated these enormous
+elephants. Most of the Indian nations concur in their having been the work
+of a people which had ceased to exist before the red men possessed those
+hunting grounds.</p>
+
+<p>The numerous mounds, fortifications, and burial caverns, and the skeletons
+and mummies, that have been discovered in these <a name="Page_150"></a>catacombs, sufficiently
+establish the fact, that a people altogether different from the present
+aborigines once inhabited these regions. At what period this by-gone
+people flourished still remains a matter of mere conjecture, for to the
+present time no discovery has been made that could lead to any plausible
+supposition.</p>
+
+<p>De Witt Clinton having paid more attention to the antiquities of America
+than any other person of whom I am aware, I shall here insert his
+description of the forts. He says, &quot;These forts were, generally speaking,
+erected on the most commanding ground. The walls, or breastworks, were
+earthen. The ditches were on the exterior of the works. On some of the
+parapets, oak trees were to be seen, which, from the number of concentric
+circles, must have been standing one hundred and fifty, two hundred and
+sixty, and three hundred years; and there were evident indications, not
+only that they had sprung up since the erection of these works, <a name="Page_151"></a>but that
+they were at least a second growth. The trenches were in some cases deep
+and wide, and in others shallow and narrow; and the breastworks varied in
+altitude from three to eight feet. They sometimes had one, and sometimes
+two entrances, as was to be inferred from there being no ditches at those
+places. When the works were protected by a deep ravine, or large stream of
+water, no ditch was to be seen. The areas of these forts varied from two
+to six acres; and the form was in general an irregular ellipsis; in some
+of them, fragments of earthenware and pulverized substances, supposed to
+have been originally human bones, were to be found.&quot;</p>
+
+<hr style="width: 45%;">
+
+<p>&quot;I believe we may confidently pronounce, that all the hypotheses which
+attribute these works to Europeans are incorrect and fanciful: 1st. on
+account of the present number of the works; 2d. on account of their
+antiquity; having from every appearance been erected a long time before
+the discovery of<a name="Page_152"></a> America; and, finally, their form and manner are varient
+from European fortifications, either in ancient or modern times.</p>
+
+<p>&quot;It is equally clear that they were not the work of the Indians. Until the
+Senecas, who are renowned for their national vanity, had seen the
+attention of the Americans attracted to these erections, and had invented
+the fabulous account of which I have spoken, the Indians of the present
+day did not pretend to know any thing about their origin. They were beyond
+the reach of all their traditions, and were lost in the abyss of
+unexplored antiquity.&quot;</p>
+
+<p>At the Bull shoals, east branch of White river in Missouri, several feet
+below the surface of the banks, <i>reliqua</i> were found which indicated that
+this spot had formerly been the seat of metalurgical operations. The alloy
+appeared to be lead united with silver. Arrow-heads cut out of flint, and
+pieces of earthen pots which had evidently undergone the action of fire,
+were also found <a name="Page_153"></a>here. The period of time at which these operations were
+carried on in this place must have been very remote, as the present banks
+have been since entirely formed by alluvial deposits.</p>
+
+<p>Near the <i>Teel-te-nah</i> (or dripping-fork), which empties itself into the
+La Platte, and not far distant from its junction with that river, there is
+an extensive cavern, in which are deposited several mummies. Some tribes
+which roam this region have a tradition, that the first Indian ascended
+through this aperture, and settled on the earth's surface.</p>
+
+<p>A few years since, on the Merrimac river in St. Louis county, a number of
+pigmy graves were discovered. The coffins were of stone; and the length of
+the bodies which they contained, judging from that of the coffins, could
+not have been more than from three feet and a half to four feet. The
+graves were numerous, and the skeletons in some instances nearly entire.</p>
+
+<p>In the month of June (1830), a party of <a name="Page_154"></a>gentlemen, whilst in pursuit of
+wild turkeys, in Hart county, Kentucky, discovered, on the top of a small
+knoll, a hole sufficiently large to admit a man's body. Having procured
+lights, they descended, and at the depth of about sixty feet, entered a
+cavern, sixteen or eighteen feet square, apparently hewn out of solid
+rock. The whole chamber was filled with human skeletons, which they
+supposed, <i>from the size</i>, to be those of women and children. The place
+was perfectly dry, and the bones were in a state of great preservation.
+They wished to ascertain how deep the bones lay, and dug through them
+between four and seven feet, but found them quite as plentiful as at the
+top: on coming to this depth, dampness appeared, and an unpleasant
+effluvia arising, obliged them to desist. There was no outlet to the
+cavern. A large snake, which appeared to be perfectly docile, passed
+several times round the apartment whilst they remained.</p>
+
+<p>In a museum at New York, I saw one <a name="Page_155"></a>of those mummies alluded to, which
+appeared to be remarkably small; but I had not an opportunity of examining
+it minutely. Those that have been found in the most perfect state of
+preservation were deposited in nitrous caves, and were enveloped in a
+manner so different from the practices of the Indians, that the idea
+cannot be entertained of their being the remains of the ancestors of the
+present race. Flint gives the following description of one of them which
+he carefully examined. He says, &quot;The more the subject of the past races of
+men and animals in this region is investigated, the more perplexed it
+seems to become. The huge bones of the animals indicate them to be vastly
+larger than any that now exist on the earth. All that I have seen and
+heard of the remains of the men, would seem to shew that they were smaller
+than the men of our times. All the bodies that have been found in that
+high state of preservation, in which they were discovered in nitrous
+caves, were consider<a name="Page_156"></a>ably smaller than the present ordinary stature of
+men. The two bodies that were found in the vast limestone cavern in
+Tennessee, one of which I saw at Lexington, were neither of them more than
+four feet in height. It seems to me that this must have been nearly the
+height of the living person. The teeth and nails did not seem to indicate
+the shrinking of the flesh from them in the desiccating process by which
+they were preserved. The teeth were separated by considerable intervals;
+and were small, long, white, and sharp, reviving the horrible images of
+nursery tales of ogres' teeth. The hair seemed to have been sandy, or
+inclining to yellow. It is well known that nothing is so uniform in the
+present Indian as his lank black hair. From the pains taken to preserve
+the bodies, and the great labour of making the funeral robes in which they
+were folded, they must have been of the 'blood-royal,' or personages of
+great consideration in their day. The person that I saw, had <a name="Page_157"></a>evidently
+died by a blow on the skull. The blood had coagulated there into a mass,
+of a texture and colour sufficiently marked to shew that it had been
+blood. The envelope of the body was double. Two splendid blankets,
+completely woven with the most beautiful feathers of the wild turkey,
+arranged in regular stripes and compartments, encircled it. The cloth on
+which these feathers were woven, was a kind of linen of neat texture, of
+the same kind with that which is now woven from the fibres of the nettle.
+The body was evidently that of a female of middle age, and I should
+suppose that her majesty weighed, when I saw her, six or eight pounds.&quot;</p>
+
+<p>The silly attempts that have been made to establish an oriental origin for
+the North American Indians, have never produced any other conviction in an
+unbiased mind, than that the <i>facts</i> brought forward to support that
+theory existed only in the imaginations of those who advanced them. The
+colour, the <a name="Page_158"></a>form, the manners, habits, and propensities of the Indians,
+all combine to establish that they are a distinct race of human beings,
+and could never have emanated from any people of European, Asiatic, or
+African origin. The notion that climate would be sufficient to produce an
+essential change in the appearance of any number of individuals, cannot
+now be maintained; since from the discovery of America, Europeans,
+Africans, and Indians have inhabited all regions of this vast continent,
+without undergoing the slightest characteristic change from the
+descendants of the original stock, who have remained in their primitive
+locations. The Power that induces the existence of plants and lower
+animals indigenous to the different sections of the earth, seems also to
+induce the existence of a race of men peculiar to the regions in which
+they are found.</p>
+
+<p>The languages of America are radically different from those of the old
+world; and no similitude can be traced between the tongues <a name="Page_159"></a>of the red
+men, and those of any other people hitherto known. Jarvis, in his Paper on
+the Religion of the Indian Tribes of North America, says, &quot;The best
+informed writers agree, that there are, exclusive of the Karalit or
+Esquimaux, three radical languages spoken by the Indians of North America.
+Mr. Heckwelder denominates them the Iroquois, the Lenap&eacute;, and the
+Floridian. The Iroquois is spoken by the Six Nations, the Wyandots, or
+Hurons, the Nandowessies, the Assiniboils, and other tribes beyond the St.
+Lawrence. The Lenap&eacute;, which is the most widely extended language on this
+side the Mississippi, was spoken by the tribes now extinct, who formerly
+inhabited Nova Scotia and the present state of Maine, the Abenakis,
+Micmacs, Canibas, Openangos, Soccokis, Etchemins, and Souriquois; dialects
+of it are now spoken by the Miamis, the Potawatomies, Missisangoes, and
+Kickapoos; the Eonestogas, Nanticokes, Shawanese, and Mohicans; the
+Algonquins, Knisteneaux, and Chippeways.<a name="Page_160"></a> The Floridian includes the
+languages of the Creeks, or Muskohgees, Chickesaws, Choctaws, Pascagoulas,
+Cherokees, Seminolese, and several other tribes in the southern states and
+Florida. These three languages are primitive; that is to say, are so
+distinct as to have no perceivable affinity. All, therefore, cannot be
+derived from the Hebrew; for it is a contradiction in terms to speak of
+three languages radically different, as derived from a common source.
+Which, then, we may well ask, is to be selected as the posterity of the
+Israelites: the Iroquois, the Lenap&eacute;, or the southern Indians?</p>
+
+<p>&quot;Besides, there is one striking peculiarity in the construction of
+American languages, which has no counterpart in the Hebrew. Instead of the
+ordinary division of genders, they divide into animate and inanimate. It
+is impossible to conceive that any nation, in whatever circumstances they
+might be placed, could depart in so remarkable a manner from the idioms of
+their native language.&quot;</p><a name="Page_161"></a>
+
+<p>M. Duponceau, a Frenchman settled at Philadelphia, who is perhaps one of
+the first philologists of the age, concludes a treatise on the same
+subject with the following deductions:</p>
+
+<p>1.&mdash;&quot;That the American languages, in general, are rich in words and in
+grammatical forms; and that in their complicated construction, the
+greatest order, method, and regularity prevail.&quot;</p>
+
+<p>2.&mdash;&quot;That these complicated forms, which I call polysinthetic, appear to
+exist in all those languages, from Greenland to Cape Horn.&quot;<a name="FNanchor_8_8"></a><a href="#Footnote_8_8"><sup>[8]</sup></a></p>
+
+<p>3.&mdash;&quot;That these forms appear to differ <a name="Page_162"></a>essentially from those of the
+ancient and modern languages of the old hemisphere.&quot;</p>
+
+<p>We intended to proceed direct from the banks of the Mississippi to
+Edwardsville, which lies in a north-easterly direction from St. Louis, but
+unfortunately got on the wrong track, an occurrence by no means uncommon
+on the prairies, and by this casualty visited Troy, a <i>town</i> containing
+two houses, namely, a &quot;groggery,&quot; and a farm-house, both owned by the one
+person. The only resemblance this trans-Atlantic Ilium can possibly bear
+to the city of the ten years' siege, lies in the difficulty of
+ascertaining its location; for had we not been informed that here stood
+the town of Troy, we should have passed through this, as we did through
+many others, without ever suspecting the fact. Town-making is quite a
+speculation in the western country; and the first thing a man does after
+purchasing a few hundred acres of ground, is to &quot;lay off a town lot:&quot; this
+causes the maps to be studded with little circular dots, and great <a name="Page_163"></a>big
+names attached to them, which would lead one to suppose the population to
+be much greater than it is in reality.</p>
+
+<p>From Edwardsville, we proceeded by Ripley and Greenville, to Vandalia, the
+seat of government of the state.</p>
+
+<p>The prairies had lost much of the brilliant green colour which they
+possessed when we before crossed them, and they were now assuming rather a
+burnt appearance. Towards the close of autumn the grass generally becomes
+so dry as to be easily ignited, which formerly took place by accident, or
+otherwise, almost every year. The sight must be grand indeed; and we
+almost regretted that we were not so fortunate as to be in danger of being
+burnt alive&mdash;the sight would be worth the risk. There is a penalty
+attached to the firing of the woods or prairies, as the plantations are
+now becoming too numerously scattered over the country, and property is
+likely to be injured by these conflagrations.</p><a name="Page_164"></a>
+
+<p>Towards the latter end of October, the season peculiar to this country,
+denominated the &quot;Indian summer,&quot; commences, and lasts for some weeks. At
+this period, the atmosphere is suffused with a vapour which at a distance
+has the appearance of smoke, arising as it were from fires in the forest.
+The air is always calm and mild on those days, and the sun's disk assumes
+a broad, reddish appearance.</p>
+
+<p>Vandalia is the capital of Illinois, and is seated on the Kaskaskia river,
+which is only navigable to this point during the &quot;freshets&quot; in autumn and
+spring. The positions of the capitals are chosen for their centrality
+alone, and not with reference to any local advantages they may possess.</p>
+
+<p>Illinois is a free state, and its constitution is but a counterpart of
+those of Ohio and Indiana. The extent is 380 miles from north to south,
+and about 140 miles from east to west: area, 52,000 square miles, or
+33,280,000 acres. The population in 1810, <a name="Page_165"></a>was 12,282; in 1820, 55,211:
+white males, 29,401; white females, 24,387; slaves, 917; militia in 1821,
+2,031. The present population is, according to the last census, 157,575.
+The increase within the last ten years has been nearly 186 per cent.</p>
+
+<p>This state is better circumstanced than any other in the west. It is
+bounded on the north by the north-west territory; on the south by the
+Ohio; on the east by the Wabash and Lake Michigan; and on the west by the
+Mississippi. The Illinois river is navigable at almost all seasons to very
+nearly its head waters; and by means of a very short portage a
+communication is established between it and Lake Michigan. A canal is
+contemplated between this lake and the Wabash.</p>
+
+<p>The heath-hen (<i>tetrao cupido</i>), or as it is here called, the
+'Prairie-hen,' abounds on the prairies, particularly in the neighbourhood
+of barrens. This species of grouse, I believe, is not to be met with in
+Europe; nor has it <a name="Page_166"></a>been accurately described by any ornithologist before
+Wilson. One habit of the male of this bird is remarkable: at the season of
+incubation, the cocks assemble every morning just before day-break,
+outside the wood, and there exercise themselves tilting until the sun
+appears, when they disperse. Hunters have not failed to note the
+circumstance, and take advantage of it.</p>
+
+<p>We were frequently amused with the movements of the &quot;Turkey buzzard&quot;
+(<i>vultur aura</i>). This bird is well known in the southern and western
+states; and in the former is considered of so much utility that a penalty
+is inflicted on any person who may wantonly destroy it. It is perfectly
+harmless, never attacking even the smallest living animal, and seems
+always to prefer carrion when in a state of putrefaction. Except when
+rising from the ground, the buzzard never flaps its wings, but literally
+floats through the atmosphere, forming graceful ogees.</p>
+
+<p>During our journeys across Illinois, we <a name="Page_167"></a>passed several large bodies of
+settlers on their way to Sangamon and Morgan counties in that state. These
+counties are situated on the Illinois river, and are said to be fertile
+tracts. The mass of those persons were Georgians, Virginians, and
+Kentuckians, whose comparative poverty rendered their residence in slave
+states unpleasant.</p>
+
+<p>Perhaps there is nothing more remarkable in the character of the Americans
+than the indifference with which they leave their old habitations,
+friends, and relations. Each individual is taught to depend mainly on his
+own exertions, and therefore seldom expects or requires extraordinary
+assistance from any man. Attachments seldom exist here beyond that of
+ordinary acquaintances&mdash;these are easily found wherever one may go,
+arising from a variety of circumstances connected with their institutions
+and their necessities; and thus one of the great objections that present
+themselves to change with Europeans scarcely exists here. Observe, I apply
+this <a name="Page_168"></a>remark more particularly to the western and southern states; for the
+eastern states being longer settled and more thickly populated, these
+feelings, although they exist, yet they do so in a more modified degree.</p>
+
+<p>The appearance presented by the forests at this season is very
+beautiful&mdash;the trees are covered with leaves of almost every colour, from
+bright crimson to nearly snow-white; the admixture of green, brown,
+yellow, scarlet, &amp;c., such as is almost peculiar to an American forest,
+produces a very pleasing combination.</p>
+
+<p>We again reached Albion, and retraced our steps from thence to Harmony,
+where we deposited our friend B&mdash;&mdash;; and after having remained there for a
+few days to refresh ourselves and horse, set forward for Ohio. The weather
+had now become unfavourable, and the frequent rains and high winds were
+shaking the leaves down in myriads&mdash;the entire of our journey through
+Indiana being across forests, we were under one constant <a name="Page_169"></a>shower of leaves
+from Harmony to Cincinnati.</p>
+
+<p>One day while getting our horse fed at a tavern in Indiana, the following
+conversation took place between the persons there assembled. We were
+sitting at the door, surrounded by captains, lawyers, and squires, when
+one of the gentlemen demanded of another if there had not been a &quot;gouging
+scrape&quot; at the &quot;Colonel's tavern&quot; the evening before. He replied in the
+affirmative; and after having related the cause of quarrel, and said that
+the lie had been given, he continued, &quot;the judge knocked the major right
+over, and jumped on to him in double quick time&mdash;they had it rough and
+tumble for about ten minutes&mdash;Lord J&mdash;s Alm&mdash;&mdash;y!&mdash;as pretty a scrape as
+ever you <i>see'd</i>&mdash;the judge is a wonderfully lovely fellow.&quot; Then followed
+a description of the divers punishments inflicted by the combatants on
+each other&mdash;the major had his eye nearly &quot;gouged&quot; out, and the judge his
+chin almost bitten off.<a name="Page_170"></a> During the recital, the whole party was convulsed
+with laughter&mdash;in which we joined most heartily.</p>
+
+<p>We of course returned by a different route through Indiana, passing from
+Princeton to Portersville, and from thence through Paoli, Salem, and New
+Lexington, to Madison. The country about Madison is hilly and broken,
+which makes travelling tedious in the extreme. From the mouth of the Big
+Miami to Blue river, a range of hills runs parallel to the Ohio,
+alternately approaching to within a few perches of the river, and receding
+to a distance of one to two miles. Below Blue river the hills disappear,
+and the land becomes level and heavily timbered. There is also another
+range of hills, extending from the Falls of Ohio to the Wabash in a
+south-westerly direction, which are called the &quot;knobs:&quot; to the west of
+these are the &quot;flats;&quot; and from the Wabash to lake Michigan the country is
+champaign.</p>
+
+<p>Indianopolis is the capital of Indiana, and <a name="Page_171"></a>is seated on the White river.
+This state averages about 270 miles from north to south, and 144 miles
+from east to west: area, 37,000 square miles, or 23,680,000 acres. The
+population in 1810, was 24,520&mdash;in 1820, 147,178: white males, 79,919;
+white females, 69,107; slaves, 190; militia in 1821, 14,990. The present
+population is 341,582.</p>
+
+<p>Vast quantities of hogs are bred in the state of Indiana, and are suffered
+to rove at large in the forests in search of mast. They are in general
+perfectly wild, and when encountered suddenly bristle up like an enraged
+porcupine. Their legs are long; bodies thin; and tail lengthy and
+straight. I was informed that if one of those animals be wounded, its
+screams will draw an immense concourse of its brethren around it, and that
+the situation of a person under these circumstances, is by no means void
+of danger; as they will not fail to attack him <i>en masse</i>. We were once
+very nigh getting into a scrape of this description. Driving along through
+the forest, <a name="Page_172"></a>we had to pass a tract covered with a thick growth of
+brushwood&mdash;my friend seeing something stirring among the bushes, drew up,
+and taking it for a deer, called out to me to fire&mdash;I stood up in the
+vehicle, and levelled where I saw the movement, when, lo! out starts a
+bristling hog, with a grunt just in time to escape with a whole skin.</p>
+
+<p>One night having been accidently separated from my fellow-traveller, I had
+to stay in a miserable-looking hut close to a creek, the habitation of a
+backwoodsman. This person's appearance was extremely unprepossessing. The
+air of ferocity and wildness which characterized his countenance, added to
+his unhealthy, cadaverous aspect, would have been sufficient in any other
+country to make one feel unpleasant at passing the night alone under his
+roof. He resided in this unhealthy situation, because the land was
+extremely fertile; but stated that every fall some one of his family was
+ill, and none of them enjoyed good health. Now when we <a name="Page_173"></a>summed up the
+consequent loss of labour incident to ill health, the balance of profit
+seemed to be greatly against bottom land, and much in favour of the
+healthful prairies.</p>
+
+<p>The farmers use, almost exclusively, the sugar of the maple (<i>acer
+saccharinum</i>) which they manufacture themselves. The space in which a
+number of these trees are found, they call a &quot;sugar camp.&quot; The process of
+manufacturing is as follows:&mdash;After the first frost, the trees are tapped,
+by perforating the trunk in an ascending direction. A spout of alder is
+inserted in the perforation, and the sap drips through this conduit into a
+trough of wood. The sap is then boiled with a spoonful of slacked lime,
+the white of an egg or two, and about a pint of milk, to every fifteen
+gallons. An ordinary tree commonly gives four pounds of good coarse brown
+sugar, which when refined can be made equal to superior lump sugar.</p>
+
+<p>A great portion of the roads through which we passed were mere horse
+paths, <a name="Page_174"></a>full of stumps, with shrubs entangled across them so thickly, that
+we were often obliged to dismount in order to cut away part of the
+impediment. Large trees which have fallen across the road, frequently
+intercept your passage, and you have no alternative but to lift the wheels
+of the vehicle over them.</p>
+
+<p>As we approached Cincinnati the difficulty of travelling became greatly
+augmented. The rains had cut up the roads into ravines, sometimes full
+three feet in depth, which, added to the clayey nature of the soil,
+completely exhausted the horse, and rendered him incapable of proceeding
+faster than a slow walk, even with the empty carriage.</p>
+
+<p>There are a number of Baptists residing at Cincinnati, who frequently
+entertain the inhabitants with public baptisms in the Ohio river. At one
+of those ceremonies, about this time, rather a ludicrous occurrence took
+place. The baptizing preacher stands up to <a name="Page_175"></a>his middle in the water, and
+the person to be baptized is led to him by another preacher. On this
+occasion the officiating clergyman was rather a slight man, and the lady
+to be baptized was extremely large and corpulent&mdash;he took her by the
+hands to perform the immersion, but notwithstanding his most strenuous
+exertions, he was thrown off his centre. She finding him yield, held
+still harder, until they both sowsed completely under the water, where
+they lay floundering and struggling for some time, amidst the shouts and
+laughter of the multitude assembled on shore. At length their brethren
+extricated them from this perilous situation.</p>
+<a name="Page_176"></a>
+<p>FOOTNOTES:</p>
+
+<a name="Footnote_8_8"></a><a href="#FNanchor_8_8">[8]</a><div class="note"><p> M. Duponceau adduces the following examples: &quot;In the
+Arancanian language the word '<i>idnancloclavin</i>' means 'I do not
+wish to eat with him.' There is a similar verb in the Delaware
+tongue&mdash;'<i>n'schingiwipona</i>,' which means 'I do not like to eat
+with him.' To which may be added another example in the latter
+tongue&mdash;'<i>machtitschwanne</i>,'&mdash;this must be translated 'a cluster of
+islands with channels every way, so that it is in no place shut up, or
+impassable for craft.' This term is applied to the islands in the bay of
+New York.&quot;</p></div>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;">
+<a name="CHAPTER_VII"></a><h2><a name="Page_177"></a>CHAPTER VII</h2>
+<br>
+
+<p>The weather having become cold and disagreeable towards the latter end of
+December, I set out for New Orleans. The larger class of steam-boats lay
+then at Shippingsport, immediately below the falls of Ohio, the river not
+being sufficiently high to enable them to pass over those rapids. Boats
+drawing from nineteen to twenty-six inches water can almost at all seasons
+ply on the Upper Ohio, and during the periods that the large boats are
+detained below the Falls, they are constantly employed in transporting
+produce, intended for the markets on the Mississippi, to Louisville, from
+whence it is drayed round to Shippingsport and re-shipped. Flat-boats <a name="Page_178"></a>are
+also employed for this purpose, and they are preferred, as they pass over
+the Falls, and thus land-carriage is avoided.</p>
+
+<p>Louisville is the chief town of Jefferson county, in Kentucky, and at
+present it is estimated to contain about 12,000 inhabitants, including
+slaves and free people of colour. The store-keepers here are more wealthy
+than those of Cincinnati, and their manners less disagreeable. The
+inhabitants of the latter town being mostly from the New England states,
+have in their dealings and manners that dry shrewdness which is the true
+Yankee characteristic. There are also located in Cincinnati some Irish
+pedlars, who have by all manner of means acquired wealth, and are now the
+&quot;biggest bugs&quot;<a name="FNanchor_9_9"></a><a href="#Footnote_9_9"><sup>[9]</sup></a> in the place.</p>
+
+<p>The public buildings of Louisville are few, and the streets are laid out
+in the usual style, crossing each other at right angles.<a name="Page_179"></a> It contains a
+few good brick dwelling-houses, and a number of excellent hack-carriages
+are stationed near the steam-boat landing. A canal round the Falls, from
+Beargrass-creek to Shippingsport, is being constructed, which will enable
+steam-boats of the largest tonnage to pass through; and thus it will open
+an uninterrupted intercourse between the Upper and Lower Ohio, and the
+Mississippi. The length of this canal is about two and a half miles, and
+the original estimate was 200,000 dollars, but this sum has been found
+insufficient.</p>
+
+<p>At Louisville I took a berth on board a boat for New Orleans. The
+steam-boats on the Mississippi are large, and splendidly appointed; the
+interior has more the appearance of a well fitted up dining-room than the
+cabin of a boat. The charge is twenty-five dollars, for which you are
+found in every thing except liquors. Meats, fowls, vegetables, fruits,
+preserves, &amp;c., are served in abundance, and of the very best quality.
+Here <a name="Page_180"></a>you may see tradesmen, &quot;nigger traders,&quot; farmers, &quot;congress men,&quot;
+captains, generals, and judges, all seated at the same table, in true
+republican simplicity. There is no appearance of awkwardness in the
+behaviour of the humblest person you see seated at those tables; and
+indeed their general good conduct is remarkable&mdash;I mean when contrasted
+with that of the same class in England. The truth is, the tradesman here
+finds himself of some importance in the scale of society, and endeavours
+to show that he is fully qualified to be seated at the same table, <i>en
+passant</i>, with the most wealthy citizen. No doubt the higher classes have
+some of that high polish rubbed off by these occasional contacts with
+their less-civilized fellow citizens; but the humbler classes decidedly
+gain what <i>they</i> lose. All dress well, and are <i>American</i> gentlemen.</p>
+
+<p>The Ohio is formed by the junction of the Alleghany and Monongahela rivers
+at Pittsburg, that town being seated in the fork&mdash;its <a name="Page_181"></a>breadth there, is
+between eight and nine hundred yards. From the mouths of those two rivers
+it narrows and deepens for some distance; but afterwards, from the
+accession of the many tributary streams by which it is supplied, gradually
+becomes wider and deeper, until it empties itself into the Mississippi.
+The length of the Ohio, following its meanders, is about 950 miles, and it
+may be said to be navigable almost the entire year, as the water must be
+unusually low when the smaller steam-boats cannot ply to Pittsburg. The
+character of this river is somewhat peculiar. But for the improvements on
+the banks, when you have seen six or eight miles of this stream, you are
+acquainted with the remainder as far as the Falls&mdash;that is to say, any
+variety that may be in the scenery will occur in any given six miles from
+Pittsburg to that point. Below Louisville there are one or two rocky
+bluffs, and the face of the country is somewhat different. The channel of
+the Upper Ohio lies <a name="Page_182"></a>between hills, which frequently approach the
+<i>mam&eacute;lle</i> form, and are covered with a heavy growth of timber. Where the
+hills or bluffs do not rise immediately from the river, but recede some
+distance, the space between the river and the hill is called bottom land,
+from the circumstance of its being overflown annually; or having at some
+former period formed part of the river's bed, which is indicated by the
+nature of the soil. The bluffs and bottoms invariably alternate; and when
+you have bluffs on one side, you are sure to have bottom on the other. The
+windings are extremely uniform, with few exceptions, curving in a
+serpentine form in so regular a manner, that the Indians always calculated
+the distance by the number of bends.</p>
+
+<p>&quot;The Falls&quot; are improperly so termed, as this obstruction is nothing more
+than a gradual descent for a distance of about a mile and a half, where
+the water, forcing its way over a rugged rocky bottom, presents the
+appearance of a rapid. Below this the country <a name="Page_183"></a>is of various
+aspects&mdash;hills, bottom-land, and high rocky bluffs; and towards the mouth,
+cotton-wood trees, (<i>populus angulata</i>), and cane brakes, are interspersed
+along the banks. The junction of these two noble rivers, the Ohio and
+Mississippi, is really a splendid sight&mdash;the scenery is picturesque, and
+the water at the point of union is fully two miles broad.</p>
+
+<p>The Mississippi<a name="FNanchor_10_10"></a><a href="#Footnote_10_10"><sup>[10]</sup></a> is in length, from its head waters to the <i>balize</i> in
+the gulf of Mexico, about two thousand three hundred miles, and flows
+through an immense variety of country. The section through which it
+passes, before its junction with the Missouri, is represented as being
+elegantly diversified with woodlands, prairies, and rich bottoms, and the
+banks are lined with a luxuriant growth of plants and flowers. Before
+reaching the Missouri, the water of the Mississippi is perfectly limpid;
+but, from the <a name="Page_184"></a>mouth of that river it becomes turgid and muddy&mdash;flows
+through a flat, inundated country, and seems more like an immense flood,
+than an old and deep-channelled river. As far as great things can be
+compared to small, it much resembles, within its banks, the Rhone when
+flooded, as it sweeps through the department of Vaucluse, after its
+junction with the Saone.</p>
+
+<p>From St. Louis to New Orleans, a distance of twelve hundred miles, there
+are but six elevated points&mdash;the four Chickesaw bluffs, the Iron banks,
+and the Walnut hills. Numerous islands are interspersed through this
+river; and from the mouth of the Ohio, tall cotton-wood trees and
+cane-brakes grow in immense quantities along the banks; the latter, being
+evergreens, have a pleasing effect in the winter season. The windings of
+the Mississippi are, like those of the Ohio, constant, but not so
+serpentine, and some of them are of immense magnitude. You traverse every
+point of the compass in your <a name="Page_185"></a>passage up or down: for example, there is a
+bend near <i>Bayou Placquamine</i>, the length of which by the water is upwards
+of sixty miles, and from one point to the other across the distance is but
+three.</p>
+
+<p>The town of &quot;Baton Rouge&quot; is situated about 190 miles above New Orleans,
+and contains a small garrison;&mdash;the esplanade runs down to the
+water's-edge, and the whole has a pretty effect. Here the sugar
+plantations commence, and the face of the country is again changed&mdash;you
+find yourself in the regions of the south. For a distance of from
+half-a-mile to two miles back, at each side, the land is planted with
+sugar-canes, and highly cultivated. The planters' houses are tastefully
+built, surrounded by gardens full of orange-trees, flowers, and
+evergreens, presenting the idea of perpetual spring, which here is indeed
+the case. The winters are seldom more severe than a mild spring in
+England. I first came in on this region at night, at the season of
+planting, when the <a name="Page_186"></a>cast or used canes are burned in heaps on each
+plantation. The dark turgid waters&mdash;the distant fires, surrounded by
+clouds of white smoke ascending in winding columns to the skies&mdash;the
+stillness of the night, interrupted only by the occasional cry of the
+pelican or the crane, and the monotonous thumping of the steam-boat
+paddles, formed a strange combination; and had the days of witches and
+warlocks not long since passed away, one would have sworn that these
+gentry were performing incantations over the mystic cauldrons, casting
+&quot;seven bullets,&quot; or &quot;raising spirits from the vasty deep.&quot;</p>
+
+<p>The Mississippi is in few places more than from half-a-mile to a mile
+wide; and were one to judge of its magnitude by its breadth alone, a very
+erroneous estimate would be formed. It is only by contemplating the many
+vast rivers which empty themselves into the Mississippi that you can form
+a correct idea of the immense volume of water that flows through this
+channel into <a name="Page_187"></a>the Gulf of Mexico. Many of its larger tributary streams
+have the appearance of being as great as itself&mdash;the depth alone
+indicating the superiority of this mighty river over every other in
+America; and, considering its length, perhaps over any other in the world.</p>
+
+<p>The great valley of the Mississippi extends, in length, from the Gulf of
+Mexico to a distance of nearly 3000 miles; and is in breadth, from the
+base of the Alleghanies to the foot of the Rocky mountains, about 2,500
+miles. The soil is composed of alluvial deposits, to a depth of from
+twenty to fifty feet; and I have myself seen, near New Orleans, trees
+lying in the horizontal position six or seven feet below the surface. This
+valley has been frequently visited by earthquakes, which have sometimes
+changed part of the channel of the river, and at others formed lakes.
+Those which occurred between the years 1811 and 1813, did serious injury,
+particularly in the neighbourhood of<a name="Page_188"></a> New Madrid, near the west bank,
+below the mouth of the Ohio. At several points the bank is sunk eight or
+ten feet below the surface of the adjacent ground, with the trees
+remaining upright as before.</p>
+
+<p>New Orleans is seated on the south-east bank of the Mississippi; and,
+following the sinuosities of the current, about 109 miles from the Gulf of
+Mexico. The river takes here a right-angular sweep, and the city proper is
+built on the exterior point of the bend, the <i>fauxbourgs</i> extending at
+each side along the banks. At high water the river rises three feet above
+any part of the city; consequently, were it not for lev&eacute;es that have been
+constructed here, and also along the banks of the river for more than a
+hundred miles, at both sides, above and below, the whole country would be
+periodically inundated. The fall from the lev&eacute;e to Bayou St. John, which
+communicates with <i>Lac Pontchartrain</i>, is about thirty feet, and the
+distance one mile. This fall is certainly <a name="Page_189"></a>inconsiderable; but I apprehend
+that it would be sufficient to drain the streets effectually, if proper
+attention were directed to that object.</p>
+
+<p>The city extends only half-a-mile back, and, including the <i>fauxbourgs</i>,
+about two miles along the river. The streets, being only partially paved,
+can never be perfectly cleaned, and stagnant water remains in the kennels
+at all seasons; this and the exhalations from the swamps in warm weather,
+produce that pestilential scourge with which the place is annually
+afflicted. The mortality here last season (the autumn of 1829) has been
+variously stated in the public prints at from five to seven thousand, who
+died of the yellow fever in the space of about ten weeks. This statement,
+however, is erroneous; as, from information which I received from the
+sexton of the American grave-yard, and from the number of fresh graves
+which I saw there, I am inclined to think that the total amount falls
+short of 2500, out of a resident <a name="Page_190"></a>population of less than 40,000 souls.
+About 700 were buried in the American grave-yard, and perhaps double that
+number in that of the French.</p>
+
+<p>The port of New Orleans presents the most extraordinary medley of any port
+in the world. Craft of every possible variety may be seen moored along the
+lev&eacute;es, and the markets and adjacent streets crowded with people of almost
+every nation in Europe, Africa, and America, who create a frightful
+confusion of tongues. A particular part of the quay is appropriated to
+each description of craft, and a penalty is enforced for any deviation
+from port regulations. The upper part is occupied with flat-boats, arks,
+peeroges, rafts, keel-boats, canoes, and steam-boats; and below these are
+stationed schooners, cutters, brigs, ships, &amp;c., in regular succession.
+The lev&eacute;e is almost constantly filled with merchandize; and the scene of
+bustle and confusion which is exhibited here during the early part of the
+day, fully proves the large <a name="Page_191"></a>amount of commercial intercourse which this
+city enjoys.</p>
+
+<p>When Louisiana was ceded to the United States, in 1803, Orleans was then
+entirely occupied by Creole-French and Spanish, consequently the majority
+of the habitations and public buildings, are in the French and Spanish
+style. The cathedral, which presents a handsome fa&ccedil;ade of about seventy
+feet, the town-hall, and courts, occupy one side of the <i>place
+d'armes,</i>&mdash;these, with the American theatre, the <i>th&eacute;&acirc;tre d'Orleans,</i> or
+French opera house, the hospital, and three or four churches, are the only
+public buildings in the city. The houses are all flat-roofed, and those in
+the back streets and fauxbourgs are seldom more than one story high; the
+practice of building houses in this manner was pursued in order to avoid
+injury from tornadoes, which occasionally visit the valley of the
+Mississippi; latterly they have not been of frequent occurrence, although
+when they do arise, they are extremely violent. The town of Urbana, in<a name="Page_192"></a>
+Ohio, this year (1830) has been nearly destroyed by a visitation of this
+nature.</p>
+
+<p>Pharo-banks, roulette-tables, and gambling of all kinds, are publicly
+permitted; but the proprietor of each establishment pays a tax of 5000
+dollars per annum. The <i>th&eacute;&acirc;tre d'Orleans</i> on Sunday evenings, is
+generally crowded with beautiful French women. Every night during the
+winter season there is a <i>bal par&eacute; et masqu&eacute;</i>, and occasionally &quot;quadroon
+balls,&quot; which are attended by the young men of the city and their <i>ch&eacute;res
+amies</i> quadroons, who are decidedly the finest women in the country, being
+well formed, and graceful in their carriage. The Louisianians are
+prohibited by law from marrying with quadroons, although this <i>caste</i> is
+free, and many of them have been educated in France, and are highly
+accomplished.</p>
+
+<p>In the south, slavery exists in its most unqualified condition, wanting
+those milder modifications which serve to dress and decorate the person of
+this ugly fiend. Here may <a name="Page_193"></a>be seen hundreds of animals of our own genus
+exposed in the public bazaars for sale, and examined with as much care,
+and precisely in the same manner, as we examine horses. In some of the
+slave states the law prohibits the separation of families, but this
+prohibition is little attended to, as the slave has no possibility of
+coming in contact with any dispensers of justice but the magistrates of
+the state, who, being slave-holders themselves, instead of redressing his
+grievances, would be more likely to order him a lashing, for presuming to
+complain. Many melancholy instances occur here, which clearly illustrate
+the evils of slavery and its demoralizing influence on the human
+character. The arguments against slavery are deduced from self-evident
+propositions, and must carry conviction to every well organized mind; yet
+from their application being of too general a character, they seldom
+interest the feelings, and in the end leave less impression than the
+simple statement of a particular occurrence. During my stay, a<a name="Page_194"></a> Doctor
+&mdash;&mdash; came down the river with thirty slaves, among which were an old negro
+and negress, each between sixty and seventy years of age; this unfortunate
+old woman had borne twenty-one children, all of whom had been at different
+times sold in the Orleans market, and carried into other states, and into
+distant parts of Louisiana. The Doctor said, in order to induce her to
+leave home quietly, that he was bringing her into Louisiana for the
+purpose of placing her with some of her children&mdash;&quot;and now,&quot; says the old
+negress, &quot;aldo I suckle my massa at dis breast, yet now he sell me to
+sugar planter, after he sell all my children away from me.&quot; This gentleman
+was a strict Methodist, or &quot;saint,&quot; and is, I was informed, much esteemed
+by the preachers of that persuasion, because of his liberal contributions
+to their support.</p>
+
+<p>Negresses, when young and likely, are often employed as wet nurses by
+white people, as also by either the planter or his friends, to <a name="Page_195"></a>administer
+to their sensual desires&mdash;this frequently as a matter of speculation, for
+if the offspring, a mulatto, be a handsome female, from 800 to 1000
+dollars may be obtained for her in the Orleans market.<a name="FNanchor_11_11"></a><a href="#Footnote_11_11"><sup>[11]</sup></a> It is an
+occurrence of no uncommon nature to see the Christian father sell his own
+daughter, and the brother his own sister, by the same father. Slaves do
+not marry, but pair at discretion; and the more children they produce, the
+better for their masters.</p>
+
+<p>On the Lev&eacute;e at New Orleans, are constantly exhibited specimens of the
+white man's humanity, in the persons of runaway slaves. When such an
+unfortunate negro is retaken, a log is chained to one of his legs, and
+round his neck is placed an iron collar, from which project three sharp
+prongs more than a foot in length each.</p><a name="Page_196"></a>
+
+<p>The evils of this infernal system are beginning to re-act upon the
+Christians, who are latterly kept in a constant state of alarm, fearing
+the number and disposition of the blacks, which threaten at no far distant
+period to overwhelm the south with some dreadful calamity.<a name="FNanchor_12_12"></a><a href="#Footnote_12_12"><sup>[12]</sup></a> Three
+incendiary fires took place at Orleans, during the month I remained in
+that city, by which several thousand bales of cotton were consumed. The
+condition of the slaves on the sugar or rice plantations, is truly
+wretched. They are ill-fed, ill-clad, and worked in gangs under the
+superintendence of a driver, who is armed with a long whip, which he uses
+at discretion; and it is a fact, well known to persons who have visited
+slave countries, that punishments are more frequently inflicted to gratify
+the private pique or caprice of the driver, than for crime or neglect of
+duty.</p>
+<a name="Page_197"></a>
+<p>In the agricultural states, slave labour is found to be altogether
+unproductive, which causes this market to be inundated:&mdash;within the last
+two months, 5000 negros have been sold here. The state legislature has
+just passed a law, regulating the introduction of slaves, and commanding
+all free people of colour, who were not residents previous to 1825, to
+quit Louisiana in the space of six months. Georgia has enacted a law to
+the same effect, with the addition of making penal, <i>the teaching of
+people of colour to read or write</i>. The liberty of the press is by no
+means tolerated in the slave states, as both judges and juries will always
+decide according to the local laws, although totally at variance with the
+constitution. W.L. Garrison, of Baltimore, one of the editors of a
+publication entitled, &quot;The Genius of Universal Emancipation,&quot; is now
+suffering fine and imprisonment for an alleged libel, at the suit of a
+slavite; and a law has been passed by the legislature of Louisiana,
+suppressing <a name="Page_198"></a>the Orleans journal called &quot;The Liberal.&quot; This latter act is
+not only contrary to the constitution of the United States, but also in
+direct opposition to the constitution of Louisiana.<a name="FNanchor_13_13"></a><a href="#Footnote_13_13"><sup>[13]</sup></a></p>
+<a name="Page_199"></a>
+<p>The free states in their own defence have been obliged to prohibit people
+of colour settling within their boundaries. Where then can the unfortunate
+African find a <a name="Page_200"></a>retreat? He must not stay in this country, and he cannot
+go to Africa; and although <a name="Page_201"></a>the British government are encouraging the
+settlement of negros in the Canadas, yet latterly, neither the Canadians
+nor the Americans like that project. The most probable finale to this
+drama will be, that the Christians must at their own expense ship them to
+Liberia (for Hayti is inundated), and there throw them on barren shores to
+die of starvation, or to be massacred by the savages!</p>
+
+<p>Miss Wright lately passed through New Orleans with thirty negros which she
+had manumitted, and was then going to establish them at Hayti. These
+slaves had been purchased at reduced prices, from persons friendly to
+their emancipation, and were kept by Miss Wright until their labour,
+allowing them a fair remuneration, amounted to the prime outlay.</p>
+
+<p>Were it not for the danger that might be apprehended from the congregation
+of large bodies of negros in particular states or districts, their
+liberation would be attended with little inconvenience <i>to the public</i>,
+for their <a name="Page_202"></a>labour might be as effectually secured, and made quite as
+profitable, under a system of well-regulated emancipation. We need only
+refer to England for a case in point:&mdash;after the conquest and total
+subjugation of the people of that country by the ancestors of the
+nobility, the gallant Normans, the feudal system was introduced, and
+remained in full vigour for some centuries. But, as the country became
+more populous, and the attendance of the knights and barons in parliament
+became more frequent and necessary, we find villanage gradually fall into
+disrepute. The last laws regulating this species of slavery were passed in
+the reign of Henry VII; and towards the end of Elizabeth's reign, although
+the statutes remained unrepealed, as they do still, yet there were no
+persons in the state to whom the laws applied. It cannot be denied that
+the labour of the poor English is as effectually secured under the present
+arrangements, as it could possibly be under the system of villanage.</p><a name="Page_203"></a>
+
+<p>I look upon slaves as public securities; and I am of opinion, that a
+legislature's enacting laws for their emancipation, is as flagrant a piece
+of injustice as would be the cancelling of the public debt. Slave-holders
+are only share-holders; and philanthropists should never talk of
+liberating slaves, more than cancelling public securities, without being
+prepared to indemnify those persons who unfortunately have their capital
+invested in this species of property.</p>
+
+<p>As many varieties of countenance are to be found among blacks as among
+whites. There are Africans in this city who have really handsome features,
+and whose proportions are just, with strong and finely rounded limbs. On
+becoming more intimate with the general character of the Africans, I like
+it better: I find they steal, cheat, and hate their masters; and if they
+were to do otherwise I should think them unworthy of liberty&mdash;they justly
+consider whatever they take to be but a portion of their own. The policy
+is <a name="Page_204"></a>to keep them as much as possible in utter ignorance&mdash;that their
+indignation should therefore develope itself in the most degrading manner,
+is not surprising.</p>
+
+<p>There are two public schools established at New Orleans, which are
+supported out of the fund arising from five gaming-houses, they paying a
+tax of 25,000 dollars per annum. These schools are conducted on the
+Lancastrian system, each having a Principal and a Professor, and the
+studies are divided into daily sessions. The morning session is devoted to
+reading, spelling, arithmetic, and English grammar; commences at nine
+A.M., and closes at one P.M. The evening session commences at three, and
+ends at five o'clock; and is devoted to penmanship, geography, and the
+French language. This is the arrangement of the English primary school,
+which is kept in the Old Poydras House, Poydras-street, in the upper part
+of the city; and is called the Upper Primary School, to distinguish it
+from the French <a name="Page_205"></a>establishment, which is kept in the lower part of the
+city. The English school has an English principal, and a French professor;
+and the French school, a French principal and an English professor. Dr.
+Kinnicutt, the principal of the Upper Primary School, is a gentleman of
+considerable ability, and to his friendly politeness I am indebted for the
+above information.</p>
+
+<p>The ravages of the yellow fever in New Orleans are immense; but I am
+credibly informed that many deaths occur here from neglect after the fever
+has subsided, when the patient is in a totally debilitated condition,
+incapable of affording himself the slightest assistance. Orleans is
+generally crowded with strangers, who are most susceptible to the
+epidemic; and it is decidedly the interest of persons keeping hotels and
+boarding-houses that such guests should give up the ghost, for in that
+case their loose cash falls into the hands of the proprietor. I do not
+mean to insinuate that a knife is passed <a name="Page_206"></a>across the throat of the
+patient; but merely that it is the opinion of physicians, and some of the
+most respectable people of the city, that every <i>facility</i> is afforded
+strangers to die, and that in many cases they actually die of gross
+neglect.</p>
+
+<p>The wealthy merchants live well, keep handsome establishments, and good
+wines. The Sardanapalian motto, &quot;Laugh, sing, dance, and be merry,&quot; seems
+to be universally adopted in this &quot;City of the Plague.&quot; The planters' and
+merchants' villas immediately in the vicinity are extremely tasteful, and
+are surrounded by large parterres filled with plantain, banana, palm,
+orange, and rose trees. On the whole, were it not for its unhealthiness,
+Orleans would be a most desirable residence, and the largest city in the
+United States, as it is most decidedly the best circumstanced in a
+commercial point of view.</p>
+
+<p>The question of the purchase of Texas from the Mexican government has been
+widely <a name="Page_207"></a>mooted throughout the country, and in the slave districts it has
+many violent partizans. The acquisition of this immense tract of fertile
+country would give an undue preponderance to the slave states, and this
+circumstance alone has prevented its purchase from being universally
+approved of; for the grasping policy of the American system seems to
+animate both congress and legislatures in all their acts. The Americans
+commenced their operations in true Yankee style. The first settlement made
+was by a person named Austin, under a large grant from the Mexican
+government. Then &quot;pioneers,&quot; under the denomination of &quot;explorers,&quot; began
+gradually to take possession of the country, and carry on commercial
+negotiations without the assent of the government. This was followed by
+the public prints taking up the question, and setting forth the immense
+value of the country, and the consequent advantages that would arise to
+the United States from its acquisition. The settlers excited <a name="Page_208"></a>movements,
+and caused discontent and dissatisfaction among the legitimate owners; and
+at their instigation, insurrections of the Indians took place, which
+greatly embarrassed the government. At this stage of the affair, Mr.
+Poinsett, the American minister, commenced his diplomatic manoeuvres in
+the city of Mexico&mdash;fomenting disaffection, encouraging parties, and
+otherwise interfering in the internal concerns of the country. He appears,
+however, to have carried his intrigues beyond the bounds of discretion, as
+they were discovered; and he consequently became so obnoxious to the
+government and people of Mexico, that Jackson found it necessary to recall
+him, and send a Colonel Butler in his stead, commissioned to offer
+5,000,000 dollars for the province of Texas.</p>
+
+<p>Mr. Poinsett's object in acting as he did, was that he might embarrass the
+government, and take advantage of some favourable crisis to drive a
+profitable bargain; or that, during some convulsion that would be likely
+<a name="Page_209"></a>to lead to a change, the expiring executive would be glad to grasp at his
+offer, and thereby a claim would be established on the country, which the
+United States would not readily relinquish. The policy of the British
+government suffering the Mexican republic to be bullied out of this
+province would be very questionable indeed, as the North Americans command
+at present quite enough of the Gulf of Mexico, and their overweening
+inclination to acquire extent of territory would render their proximity to
+the West Indian Islands rather dangerous; however, it would be much more
+advantageous to have the Mexicans as neighbours than the people of the
+United States.</p>
+
+<p>The Mexican secretary of state, Don Lucas Alaman, in a very able and
+elaborate report made to Congress, sets forth the ambitious designs of the
+American government, and the proceedings of its agents with regard to this
+province. He also recommends salutary measures for the purpose of
+retaining <a name="Page_210"></a>possession and preventing further encroachments; which the
+Congress seems to have taken into serious consideration, as very important
+resolutions have been adopted. The Congress has decreed, that hereafter
+the Texas is to be governed as a colony; and, except by special commission
+of the Governor, the immigration of persons <i>from the United States</i>, is
+strictly forbidden. So much at present for the efforts of the Americans to
+get possession of the Texas; and if the British government be alive to the
+interests of the nation, they never shall;&mdash;for, entertaining the hostile
+feelings that they do towards the British empire, their closer connexion
+with the West Indies would certainly not be desirable.</p>
+
+<p>FOOTNOTES:</p>
+
+<a name="Footnote_9_9"></a><a href="#FNanchor_9_9">[9]</a><div class="note"><p> A &quot;big bug,&quot; is a great man, in the phraseology of the
+western country.</p></div>
+
+<a name="Footnote_10_10"></a><a href="#FNanchor_10_10">[10]</a><div class="note"><p> In the Indian tongue, <i>Meschacebe</i>&mdash;&quot;old father of waters.&quot;</p></div>
+
+<a name="Footnote_11_11"></a><a href="#FNanchor_11_11">[11]</a><div class="note"><p> I have been informed by a gentleman who has resided in the
+English West Indian Islands, that he has known instances there of highly
+educated white women, young and unmarried, making black mothers suckle
+puppy lap-dogs for them.</p></div>
+
+<a name="Footnote_12_12"></a><a href="#FNanchor_12_12">[12]</a><div class="note"><p> Previous to my leaving America, a most extensive and
+well-organised conspiracy was discovered at Charleston, and several of the
+conspirators were executed. The whole black population of that town were
+to have risen on a certain day, and put their oppressors to death.</p></div>
+
+<a name="Footnote_13_13"></a><a href="#FNanchor_13_13">[13]</a><div class="note">
+<div class="blkquot"><p>Extract from &quot;The Liberal&quot; of 19th March, 1830:&mdash;
+</p><p>
+    &quot;Constitution des Etats unis.
+</p><p>
+    &quot;Art. 1 er. des Amendments.
+</p><p>
+    &quot;Le Congr&eacute;s n'aura pas le droit de faire aucune loi pour abreger
+    la libert&eacute; de la parole ou de la presse, &amp;c.
+</p><p>
+    &quot;Constitution de L'Etat de la Louisiane.
+</p><p>
+    &quot;Art. 6, v. 21.
+</p><p>
+    &quot;La presse sera libre &agrave; tous ceux qui entreprendront d'examiner les
+    proc&eacute;dures de la legislature ou aucune branche du gouvernement; et
+    aucune loi sera jamais faite pour abreger ses droits, &amp;c.
+</p><p>
+    &quot;Loi faite par la legislature de l'Etat de la Louisiane.
+</p><p>
+    &quot;Acte pour punir les crime y mention&eacute;s et pour d'autre objets.
+</p><p>
+    &quot;Sect. 1 &eacute;re. Il et d&eacute;cr&eacute;t&eacute;, &amp;c. Que quiconque &eacute;crira, imprimera,
+    publiera, ou r&eacute;pandra toute piece ayant une tendance &agrave; produire du
+    mecontentement parmi la population de couleur libre, ou de
+    l'insubordination parmi les esclaves de cet Etat, sera sur
+    conviction du fait, pardevant toute cour de juridiction competante
+    condamn&eacute; &agrave; l'emprisonnement aux travaux forc&eacute;s pour la vie ou &agrave; la
+    peine de mort, &agrave; la discretion de la cour!!!!
+</p><p>
+    &quot;Sec. 2. Il est de plus d&eacute;cr&eacute;t&eacute;, que quiconque se servira
+    d'expressions dans un discours public prononc&eacute; au barreau, au bane
+    des Judges, au Th&eacute;&acirc;tre, en chaire, ou dans tout lieu quelconque;
+    quicconque se servira d'expressions dans des conversations ou des
+    discours particulars, ou fera usage des signes ou fera des actions
+    ayant une tendance &agrave; produire du m&eacute;contentement parmi la
+    population de couleur libre ou &agrave; exciter a l'insubordination parmi
+    les esclaves de cet Etat; quiconque donnera sciemment la main &agrave;
+    apporter dans cet Etat aucun papier, brochure ou livre ayant la
+    meme tendance que dessus, sera, sur conviction, pardevant toute
+    cour de juridiction competante, condamn&eacute;; &agrave; l'emprisonnement aux
+    travaux forc&eacute;s pour un terme qui ne sera pas moindre de trois ans
+    et qui n'exc&eacute;dera pas vingt un ans, ou a la peiue de mort &agrave; la
+    discretion de la cour!!!!
+</p><p>
+    &quot;Sec. 3. Il est de plus d&eacute;cr&eacute;t&eacute;, que seront consider&eacute;es comme
+    illegales toute reunions de negres; mulatres ou autres personnes
+    de couleur libre dans le temples, les ecoles ou autres lieux pour
+    y apprendre &agrave; lire ou &agrave; ecrire: et les personnes qui se r&eacute;uniront
+    ainsi; sur conviction du fait, pardevant toute cour de juridiction
+    competente, seront emprisonne&eacute;s pour un terme qui ne sera pas
+    moindre d'un mois et qui n'exc&eacute;dera pas douze mois, &agrave; la
+    discr&eacute;tion!!!!
+</p><p>
+    &quot;Sec. 4. Il est de plus d&eacute;cr&eacute;t&eacute;, que toute personne dans cet &eacute;tat
+    qui enseignera, permettra qu'on enseigne ou lera enseigner &agrave; lire
+    ou &agrave; ecrire &agrave; un esclave quelconque, sera, sur conviction du fait,
+    pardevant toute cour de juridiction competante, condamn&eacute; &agrave; un
+    imprisonnement qui ne sera pas moindre d'un mois et n'exc&eacute;dera pas
+    douze mois!!!!&quot;
+</p>
+<hr style="width: 45%;">
+<p>
+    From the remarks of the same journal of the 23rd March, it would
+    appear that the third and fourth sections of this most enlightened
+    and Christian act have been rejected, as being &quot;<i>too bad</i>.&quot;
+</p><p>
+    &quot;Nous avons lu la publication officielle de l'acte intitul&eacute;: 'acte
+    pour emp&ecirc;cher l'introduction des personnes de couleur libres dans
+    cet Etat, et pour d'autres objets.' Il est trop long pour que nous
+    puissons le publier, nous en donnons l'extrait suivant.
+</p><p>
+    &quot;1. Toute personne de couleur libre, qui sera rentre&eacute; dans cet
+    &eacute;tat depuis 1825, sera forc&eacute;e d'en sortir.
+</p><p>
+    &quot;2. Aucune personne, de couleur libre, ne pourra &agrave; l'avenir
+    s'introduire dans cet &eacute;tat sous aucun pretexte quelconque.
+</p><p>
+    &quot;3. Le blanc qui aura fait circuler des &eacute;crits tendant &agrave; troubler
+    le repos public, ou censurant les actes de la legislature
+    concernant les esclaves ou les personnes de couleur libres, sera
+    puni rigoureusement.
+</p><p>
+    &quot;4. L'emancipation des esclaves est soumise &agrave; quantit&eacute; de
+    formalit&eacute;s,
+</p><p>
+    &quot;Tous les noirs, grieffes et mulatres, au premier degr&eacute;, libres,
+    sont oblig&eacute;s de se faire enregistrer au bureau du maire, &agrave; Nelle.
+    Orleans, ou chez les judges de paroisse dans les autres parties de
+    l'&eacute;tat.
+</p><p>
+    &quot;Nous voyons avec joie, que la partie du bill tendant &agrave; emp&ecirc;cher
+    l'instruction des personnes de couleur, &agrave; &eacute;t&eacute; rejet&eacute;.&quot;</p></div>
+</div>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;">
+<a name="CHAPTER_VIII"></a><h2><a name="Page_211"></a>CHAPTER VIII</h2>
+<br>
+
+<p>Having spent a month in Orleans and the neighbouring plantations, I took
+my leave and departed for Louisville. The steam-boat in which I ascended
+the river was of the largest description, and had then on board between
+fifty and sixty cabin passengers, and nearly four hundred deck passengers.
+The former paid thirty dollars, and the latter I believe six, on this
+occasion. The deckers were provided only with an unfurnished berth. The
+steam-boats, on their passage up and down the rivers, stop at nearly all
+the towns of importance, both for the purpose of landing and receiving
+<a name="Page_212"></a>freight, which enabled me to visit most of the settlements along the
+banks.</p>
+
+<p>For several hundred miles from New Orleans, the trees, particularly those
+in the cypress swamps, are covered with tellandsea, or Spanish moss, which
+hangs down from the branches so thickly, as to give a most gloomy aspect
+to the forest. It is found to be a good substitute for horse hair, and is
+universally used by upholsterers for stuffing mattresses, cushions, &amp;c.
+The process of preparing it is very simple: being taken from the trees, it
+is placed in water for a few days, until the outer pellicle has rotted; it
+is then dried, when a long fibre resembling horse hair is obtained.</p>
+
+<p>Natchez, in the state of Mississippi, is about 300 miles above Orleans,
+and is the largest and wealthiest town on the river, from that city up to
+St. Louis. It stands on bluffs, perhaps 300 feet above the water at
+ordinary periods. It contains nearly 4000 inhabitants, and is decidedly
+the prettiest <a name="Page_213"></a>town for its dimensions in the United States. Natchez,
+although upwards of 400 miles from the sea, is considered a port; and a
+grant of 1500 dollars was made by congress for the purpose of erecting a
+light-house; the building has been raised, and stands there, a monument of
+useless expenditure. There are a number of &quot;groggeries,&quot; stores, and other
+habitations, at the base of the bluffs, for the accommodation of
+flat-boatmen, which form a distinct town, and the place is called, in
+contradistinction to the city above, Natchez-under-the-hill. Swarms of
+unfortunate females, of every shade of colour, may be seen here sporting
+with the river navigators, and this little spot presents one continued
+scene of gaming, swearing, and rioting, from morning till night.</p>
+
+<p>The ravages of the yellow fever in this town are always greater in
+proportion to the population than at New Orleans; and it is a remarkable
+fact, that frequently when the fever is raging with violence in the city
+on <a name="Page_214"></a>the hill, the inhabitants below are entirely free from it. In addition
+to the exhalations from the exposed part of the river's bed, there are
+others of a still more pestilential character, which arise from stagnant
+pools at the foot of the hill. The miasmata appear to ascend until they
+reach the level of the town above, where the atmosphere being less dense,
+and perhaps precisely of their own specific gravity, they float, and
+commingle with it.</p>
+
+<p>The country from Baton-rouge to Vicksburg, on the walnut hills, is almost
+entirely devoted to the cultivation of cotton, the soil and climate being
+found particularly congenial to the growth of that plant. The great trade
+of Natchez is in this article. The investment of capital in the
+cultivation of cotton is extremely profitable, and a plantation
+judiciously managed seldom fails of producing an income, in a few years,
+amounting to the original outlay. Each slave is estimated to produce from
+250 to 300 dollars <a name="Page_215"></a>per annum; but of course from this are to be deducted
+the <i>wear and tear</i> of the slave, and the casualties incident to human
+life. On sugar plantations the profit is much more on each individual; but
+the risk is greater, and the deaths are generally calculated at one-third
+of the gang in ten years: this is the cause why slaves <i>on sugar
+plantations</i> are so miserably fed and clad, for their being rendered less
+wretched would not make them less susceptible to the epidemic. Each acre
+of well-cultivated land produces from one and a half to two bales of
+cotton, and even the first year the produce will cover the expenses. A
+planter may commence with 10,000 or 12,000 dollars, and calculate on
+certain success; but with less capital, he must struggle hard to attain
+the desired object. A sugar plantation cannot be properly conducted with
+less than 25,000 or 30,000 dollars, and the first year produces no return.
+The cotton begins to ripen in the month of October&mdash;the buds open, and the
+flowers appear. A slave can <a name="Page_216"></a>gather from 100 to 150 lbs. a day. Rice and
+tobacco are also grown in the neighbourhood of the cotton lands, but of
+course the produce is inferior to that of the West Indies.</p>
+
+<p>Occasionally, along the banks of the Mississippi, you see here and there
+the solitary habitation of a wood-cutter. Immense piles of wood are placed
+on the edge of the bank, for the supply of steam-boats, and perhaps a
+small corn patch may be close to the house; this however is not commonly
+the case, as the inhabitants depend on flat-boats for provisions. The
+dwelling is the rudest kind of log-house, and the outside is sometimes
+decorated with the skins of deer, bears, and other animals, hung up to
+dry. Those people are commonly afflicted with fever and ague; and I have
+seen many, particularly females, who had immense swellings or
+protuberances on their stomachs, which they denominate &quot;ague-cakes.&quot; The
+Mississippi wood-cutters scrape together &quot;considerable of dollars,&quot; but
+they pay dearly for it in health, <a name="Page_217"></a>and are totally cut off from the
+frequent frolics, political discussions, and elections; which last,
+especially, are a great source of amusement to the Americans, and tend to
+keep up that spirit of patriotism and nationality for which they are so
+distinguished. The excitement produced by these elections prevents the
+people falling into that ale-drinking stupidity, which characterizes the
+low English.</p>
+
+<p>The &quot;freshets&quot; in the Mississippi are always accompanied with an immense
+quantity of &quot;drift-wood,&quot; which is swept away from the banks of the
+Missouri and Ohio; and the navigation is never totally devoid of danger,
+from the quantity of trees which settle down on the bottom of the river.
+Those trees which stand perpendicularly in the river, are called
+&quot;planters;&quot; those which take hold by the roots, but lie obliquely with the
+current, yielding to its pressure, appearing and disappearing alternately,
+are termed &quot;sawyers;&quot; and those which lie immovably fixed, in the <a name="Page_218"></a>same
+position as the &quot;sawyers,&quot; are denominated &quot;snags.&quot; Many boats have been
+stove in by &quot;snags&quot; and &quot;sawyers,&quot; and sunk with all the passengers. At
+present there is a snag steam-boat stationed on the Mississippi, which has
+almost entirely cleared it of these obstructions. This boat consists of
+two hulks, with solid beams of timber uniting the bows. It has a most
+powerful engine; and when the crew discover a snag, which always lies with
+the stream, and is known by the ripple on the water, they run down below
+it for some distance in order to gather head-way&mdash;the boat is then run at
+it full tilt, and seldom fails of breaking off the projecting branch close
+to the trunk.</p>
+
+<p>We arrived, a fine morning about nine o'clock, at Memphis in Tennessee,
+and lay-to to put out freight. We had just sat down, and were regaling
+ourselves with a substantial breakfast, when one of the boilers burst,
+with an explosion that resembled the report of a cannon. The change <a name="Page_219"></a>was
+sudden and terrific. Between fifty and sixty persons were killed and
+wounded. The scene was the most horrifying that can be imagined&mdash;the dead
+were shattered to pieces, covering the decks with blood; and the dying
+suffered the most excruciating tortures, being scalded from head to foot.
+Many died within the hour; whilst others lingered until evening, shrieking
+in the most piteous manner. The persons assembled on shore displayed the
+most disgusting want of sympathy; and most of the gentlemen passengers
+took care to secure their luggage before rendering any assistance to the
+unfortunates. A medical gentleman, who happened to be on board (a Doctor
+Otis, I think, from Carolina), was an exception. This gentleman&mdash;and
+gentleman he really was, in every respect&mdash;attended with the most
+unremitting care on all the wounded without distinction. A collection was
+made by the cabin passengers, for the surviving sufferers. The wretch who
+furnished oil on the occasion, <a name="Page_220"></a>hearing of the collection, had the
+conscience to make a charge of sixty dollars, when the quantity furnished
+could not possibly have amounted to a third of that sum.</p>
+
+<p>The boiler recoiled, cutting away part of the bow, and the explosion blew
+up the pilot's deck, which rendered the vessel totally unfit for service.
+I remained three days at Memphis, and visited the neighbouring farms and
+plantations. Several parties of Chickesaw Indians were here, trading their
+deer and other skins with the townspeople. This tribe has a reservation
+about fifty miles back, and pursues agriculture to a considerable extent.
+After the massacre and extermination of the Natchez Indians, by the
+Christians of Louisiana, the few survivors received an asylum from the
+Chickesaws; who, notwithstanding the heavy vengeance with which they were
+threatened, could never be induced to give up the few unhappy &quot;children of
+the Sun&quot; who confided in their honour and generosity: the fugitives
+amalgamated with their protectors, and the Natchez are extinct.</p><a name="Page_221"></a>
+
+<p>Some of the Indians here assembled, indulged immoderately in the use of
+ardent spirits, with which they were copiously supplied by the white
+people. During these drinking fits, there is always one at least of the
+party who remains sober, in order to secure the knives, &amp;c. Hence the
+Americans derive the cant phrase of &quot;doing the sober Indian,&quot; which they
+apply to any one of a company who will not <i>drink fairly</i>. One of the
+Indians had a pony which he wished to sell, having occasion for some
+articles, and his skins not bringing him as much as he had anticipated. A
+townsman demanded the price. The Indian put up both his hands, intimating
+that he would take ten dollars. The pony was worth double the sum; but the
+spirit of barter would not permit the white man to purchase without
+reducing the price: he offered the Indian five dollars. The Indian was
+evidently indignant, but only gave a nod of dissent. After some
+hesitation, the buyer, finding that he could <a name="Page_222"></a>not reduce the price, said
+he would give the ten dollars. The Indian then held up his fingers, and
+counted fifteen. The buyer demurred at the advance; but the Indian was
+inexorable, and at length intimated that he would not trade at all. Such
+is the character of the Aborigines&mdash;they never calculate on <i>your</i>
+necessities, but only on their own; and when they are in want of money,
+demand the lowest possible price for the article they may wish to
+sell&mdash;but if they see you want to take further advantage of them, they
+invariably raise the price or refuse to traffic.</p>
+
+<p>Hunting in Tennessee is commonly practised on horseback, with dogs. When
+the party comes upon a deer-track, it separates, and hunters are posted,
+at intervals of about a furlong, on the path which the deer when started
+is calculated to take. Two or three persons then set forward with the
+dogs, always coming up against the wind, and start the deer, when the
+sentinels at the different points fire at him as he passes, until <a name="Page_223"></a>he is
+brought down. Another mode is to hunt by torch-light, without dogs. In
+this case, slaves carry torches before the party; the light of which so
+amazes the deer, that he stands gazing in the brushwood. The glare of his
+eyes is always sufficient to direct the attention of the rifleman, who
+levels his piece at the space between them, and seldom fails of hitting
+him fairly in the head.</p>
+
+<p>A boat at length arrived from New Orleans, bound for Nashville in
+Tennessee, and I secured a passage to Smithland, at the mouth of the
+Cumberland river, where I had a double opportunity of getting to
+Louisville, as boats from St. Louis, as well as those from Orleans, stop
+at that point. The day following my arrival a boat came up, and I
+proceeded to Louisville. On board, whilst I was amusing myself forward, I
+was accosted by a deck-passenger, whom I recollected to have seen at
+Harmony. He told me, amongst other things, that a Mr. O&mdash;&mdash;, who resided
+there, had been elected captain, and added <a name="Page_224"></a>that he was &quot;a considerable
+clever fellow,&quot; and the best captain they ever had. I inquired what
+peculiar qualification in their new officer led him to that conclusion.
+Expecting to hear of his superior knowledge in military tactics, I was
+astounded when he seriously informed me, in answer, that on a late
+occasion (I believe it was the anniversary of the birth of Washington),
+after parade, he ordered them into a &quot;groggery,&quot; &quot;not to take a <i>little</i>
+of something to drink, but by J&mdash;s to drink as much as they had a mind
+to.&quot; It must be observed, that this individual I had seen but once, in the
+streets of Harmony, and then he was in a state of inebriation. Another
+anecdote, of a similar character, was related to me by an Englishman
+relative to his own election to the post of brigadier-general. The
+candidate opposed to him had served in the late war, and in his address to
+the electors boasted not a little of the circumstance, and concluded by
+stating that he was &quot;ready to lead them to a can<a name="Page_225"></a>non's mouth when
+necessary.&quot; This my friend the General thought a poser; but, however, he
+determined on trying what virtue there was&mdash;not in stones, like the &quot;old
+man&quot; with the &quot;young saucebox,&quot;&mdash;but in a much more potent article,
+whisky; so, after having stated that although he had not served, yet he
+was as ready to serve against &quot;the hired assassins of England&quot;&mdash;this is
+the term by which the Americans designate our troops&mdash;as his opponent, he
+concluded by saying, &quot;Boys, Mr. &mdash;&mdash; has told you that he is ready to lead
+you to a cannon's mouth&mdash;now <i>I</i> don't wish you any such misfortune as
+getting the contents of a cannon in your bowels, but if necessary,
+perhaps, I'd lead you as far as he would; however, men, the short and the
+long of it is, instead of leading you to the mouth of a cannon, I'll lead
+you this instant to the mouth of a barrel of whisky.&quot; This was enough&mdash;the
+electors shouted, roared, laughed, and drank&mdash;and elected my friend
+Brigadier-<a name="Page_226"></a>general. Brigadier-general! what must this man's relatives in
+England think, when they hear that he is a Brigadier-general in the
+American army? Yet he is a very respectable man (an auctioneer), and much
+superior to many west country Generals. The fact is, a dollar's-worth of
+whisky and a little Irish wit would go as far in electioneering as five
+pounds would go in England; and were it not for the protection afforded by
+the ballot, the Americans would be fully as corrupt, and would exercise
+the franchise as little in accordance with the public interest, as the
+English and Irish who enjoy the freedom of corporate towns. Some aspirants
+to office in the New England states, about the time of the last
+presidential election, tried the system of bribing, and obtained promises
+fully sufficient to insure their returns; but on counting the votes, it
+was found that more than one half the persons who were paid to vote <i>for</i>,
+must have voted <i>against</i> the person who had bribed them. It is needless
+<a name="Page_227"></a>to say this experiment was not repeated. The Americans thought it bad
+enough to take the bribe, but justly concluded that it would be a double
+crime to adhere to the agreement. The bravo who takes a purse to commit an
+assassination, and does not do that for which he has been paid; is an
+angel, when compared to the villain who performs his contract.</p>
+
+<p>The usual time occupied in a voyage from Orleans to Louisville is from ten
+to twelve days, and boats have performed it in the surprisingly short
+space of eight days. The spur that commerce has received from the
+introduction of steam-boats on the western waters, can only be appreciated
+by comparing the former means of communication with the present. Previous
+to 1812, the navigation of the Upper Ohio was carried on by means of about
+150 small barges, averaging between thirty and forty tons burden, and the
+time consumed in ascending from the Falls to Pittsburg was a full month.
+On the<a name="Page_228"></a> Lower Ohio and the Mississippi there were about twenty barges,
+which averaged 100 tons burden, and more than three months was occupied in
+ascending from Orleans to Louisville with West India produce, the crew
+being obliged to poll or <i>cordelle</i> the whole distance. Seldom more than
+one voyage to Orleans and back was made within the year. In 1817, a
+steam-boat arrived at Louisville from New Orleans in twenty-five days, and
+a public dinner and other rejoicings celebrated the event. From that
+period until 1827, the time consumed in this voyage gradually diminished,
+and in that year a boat from New Orleans entered the port of Louisville in
+eight days and two hours. There are at present on the waters of the Ohio
+and Mississippi, 323 boats, the aggregate burden of which is 56,000 tons,
+the greater proportion measuring from 250 to 500 tons.</p>
+
+<p>The people of this country cannot properly be compared with the
+inhabitants of England; their institutions are different, and <a name="Page_229"></a>their
+habits and manners must necessarily be dissimilar. Indeed, they are as
+unlike the English as any people can well be, and many of them with whom I
+conversed, denied flatly the descent. They contend that they are a
+compound of the best blood of Europe, and that the language of England
+only prevailed because, <i>originally</i>, the majority of settlers were
+English; but that since the revolution, the whole number of emigrants from
+the other countries of Europe greatly exceeded the proportion from England
+and Ireland. Their temperament, organisation, and independent spirit,
+appear to bear them out in this assertion.</p>
+
+<p>In England we have all the grades and conditions of society that are to be
+found in America, with the addition of two others, the highest and the
+lowest classes. There is no extensive class here equivalent to the English
+or Irish labourer; neither is there any class whose manners are stamped
+with that high polish and urbanity which characterises the <a name="Page_230"></a>aristocracy of
+England. The term <i>gentleman</i> is used here in a very different sense from
+that in which it is applied in Europe&mdash;it means simply, well-behaved
+citizen. All classes of society claim it&mdash;from the purveyor of old bones,
+up to the planter; and I have myself heard a bar-keeper in a tavern and a
+stage driver, whilst quarrelling, seriously accuse each other of being &quot;no
+gentleman.&quot; The only class who live on the labour of others, and without
+their own personal exertions, are the planters in the south. There are
+certainly many persons who derive very considerable revenues from houses;
+but they must be very few, if any, who have ample incomes from land, and
+this only in the immediate vicinity of the largest and oldest cities.</p>
+
+<p>English novels have very extensive circulation here, which certainly is of
+no service to the country, as it induces the wives and daughters of
+American gentlemen (alias, shopkeepers) to ape gentility. In Louisville,<a name="Page_231"></a>
+Cincinnati, and all the other towns of the west, the women have
+established circles of society. You will frequently be amused by seeing a
+lady, the wife of a dry-goods store-keeper, look most contemptuously at
+the mention of another's name, whose husband pursues precisely the same
+occupation, but on a less extensive scale, and observe, that &quot;she only
+belongs to the third circle of society.&quot; This species of embryo
+aristocracy&mdash;or as Socrates would, call it, Plutocracy&mdash;is based on wealth
+alone, and is decidedly the most contemptible of any. There are,
+notwithstanding, very many well-bred, if not highly polished, women in the
+country; and on the whole, the manners of the women are much more
+agreeable than those of the men.</p>
+
+<p>Early in the summer I proceeded to Maysville, in Kentucky, which lies
+about 220 miles above the Falls. Here having to visit a gentlemen in the
+interior, I hired a chaise, for which I paid about two shillings British
+per mile.</p><a name="Page_232"></a>
+
+<p>A great deal of excitement was just then produced among the inhabitants of
+Maysville by the president's having put his veto on the bill, passed by
+congress, granting loans to the &quot;Maysville and Lexington road,&quot; and the
+&quot;Louisville canal&quot; companies. The Kentuckians were in high dudgeon, and
+denounced Jackson as an enemy to internal improvement, and to the western
+states. It would appear that the friends of Adams and Clay, had determined
+to place Jackson in a dilemma which would involve his character, either as
+a friend to internal improvement or an enemy to lavish expenditure.
+Accordingly, they passed an unusual number of bills, appropriating money
+to the clearing of creeks, building of bridges, and making of canals and
+turnpike roads; the amount of which, instead of leaving a surplus of ten
+millions to the liquidation of the national debt, would not only have
+totally exhausted the treasury, but have actually exceeded by 20,000,000
+dollars the revenue of <a name="Page_233"></a>the current year. This manoeuvre was timely
+discovered by the administration, and the president consequently refused
+to put his signature to those bills, amongst a number of others. He
+refused on two grounds. The first was, that although it had been the
+practice of congress to grant sums of money for the purpose of making
+roads and perfecting other works, which only benefited one or two states;
+yet that such practice was not sanctioned by the constitution&mdash;the federal
+legislature having no power to act but with reference to the general
+interests of the states. The second was, that the road in question was
+local in the most limited sense, commencing at the Ohio river, and running
+back sixty miles to an interior town, and consequently, the grant in
+question came within neither the constitutional powers nor practice of
+congress.</p>
+
+<p>The president recommends that the surplus revenue, after the debt shall
+have been paid off, should be portioned out to the different states, in
+proportion to their ratio of represen<a name="Page_234"></a>tation; which appears to be
+judicious, as the question of congressional power to appropriate money to
+road-making, &amp;c., although of a general character, involves also the right
+of jurisdiction; which congress clearly has not, except where the defence
+of the country, or other paramount interests, are concerned.</p>
+
+<p>The national debt will be totally extinguished in four years, when this
+country will present a curious spectacle for the serious consideration of
+European nations. During the space of fifty-six years, two successful wars
+have been carried on&mdash;one for the establishment, and the other for the
+maintenance of national independence, and a large amount of public works
+and improvements has been effected; yet, after the expiration of four
+years from this time, there will not only be no public debt, but the
+revenue arising from protecting tariff duties alone will amount to more
+than the expenditure by upwards of 10,000,000 dollars.</p><a name="Page_235"></a>
+
+<p>A brief abstract from the treasury report on the finances of the United
+States, up to the 1st January, 1831, may not be uninteresting.</p>
+
+<pre>
+                                             Dollars. Cts.
+Balance in the treasury, 1st January,
+1828                                         6,668,286 10
+
+Receipts of the year 1828                   24,789,463 61
+                                            _____________
+Total                                       31,457,749 71
+Expenditure for the year 1828               25,485,313 90
+                                            _____________
+Leaving a balance in the treasury, 1st
+January, 1829, of                            5,972,435 81
+
+Receipts from all sources during the
+year 1829                                   24,827,627 38
+
+Expenditures for the same year, including
+3,686,542 dol. 93 ct. on account of
+the public debt, and 9,033 dol. 38 ct.
+for awards under the first article of the
+treaty of Ghent                             25,044,358 40
+
+Balance in the treasury on 1st January,
+1830                                         5,755,704 79
+
+The receipts from all sources during the
+year 1830 were                              24,844,116 51
+
+                    viz.
+
+Customs                                     21,922,391 39
+
+Lands                                        2,329,356 14
+
+Dividends on bank stock                        490,000 00
+
+Incidental receipts                            102,368 98
+                                            _____________<a name="Page_236"></a>
+
+The expenditures for the same year were     24,585,281 55
+
+                    viz.
+
+Civil list, foreign intercourse,
+and miscellaneous                            3,237,416 04
+
+Military service, including
+fortifications, ordnance,
+Indian affairs,
+pensions, arming the
+militia, and internal
+improvements                                 6,752,688 66
+
+Naval service, including
+sums appropriated
+to the gradual
+improvement of the
+navy<a name="FNanchor_14_14"></a><a href="#Footnote_14_14">[&#8321;&#8324;]</a>                                     3,239,428 63
+
+Public debt                                 11,355,748 22
+                                            _____________
+
+Leaving a balance in the treasury
+on the 1st of January, 1831, of              6,014,539 75
+
+<a name="Page_237"></a>
+<i>Public Debt</i>.
+                                             Dollars. Cts.
+The payments made on account of the
+Public Debt, during the first three
+quarters of the year 1831, amounted to      9,883,479  46
+
+It was estimated that the payments to
+be made in the fourth quarter of the
+same year, would amount to                  6,205,810  21
+                                           ______________
+Making the whole amount of disbursments
+on account of the Debt in 1831             16,089,289  67
+
+
+THE  PUBLIC  DEBT,  ON  THE  SECOND  OF JANUARY, 1832, WILL
+BE AS FOLLOWS, VIZ.;&mdash;
+
+1. <i>Funded Debt</i>.
+                                             Dollars. Cts.
+Three per cents, per act
+of the 4th of August,
+1790, redeemable at the
+pleasure of government                      13,296,626 21
+
+Five per cents, per act of
+the 3rd of March, 1821,
+redeemable after the 1st
+January, 1823                                4,735,296 30
+<a name="Page_238"></a>
+Five per cents, (exchanged),
+per act of 20th of
+April, 1823; one third
+redeemable annually
+after 31st of December,
+1830, 1831 and 1832                            56,704  77
+
+Four and half per cents.
+per act of the 24th of
+May, 1824, redeemable
+after 1st of January,
+1832                                        1,739,524  01
+
+Four and half per cents.
+(exchanged), per act of
+the 26th of May, 1824;
+one half redeemable
+after the 31st day of
+December, 1832                              4,454,727  95
+                                           ______________
+                                           24,282,879  24
+
+2. <i>Unfunded Debt</i>.
+
+Registered Debt, being
+claims registered prior
+to the year 1793, for
+services and supplies
+during the revolutionary war                   27,919  85
+
+Treasury notes                                  7,116  00
+
+Mississippi stock                               4,320  09
+                                           ______________
+                                               39,355  94
+
+Making the whole amount of the Public
+Debt of the United States                  24,322,235  18
+                                           ______________
+
+Which is, allowing 480 cents to the
+sovereign, in sterling money            £5,067,132 6<i>s</i>. 7<i>d</i>.</pre>
+
+<p><a name="Page_239"></a>General Jackson has proposed another source of national revenue, in the
+establishment of a bank; the profits of which, instead of going into the
+pockets of stock-holders as at present, should be placed to the credit of
+the nation. If an establishment of this nature could be formed, without
+involving higher interests than the mere pecuniary concerns of the
+country, no doubt it would be most desirable. But how a <i>government</i> bank
+could be so formed as that it should not throw immense and dangerous
+influence into the hands of the executive, appears difficult to determine.
+If it be at all connected with the government, the executive must exercise
+an extensive authority over its affairs; and in that case, the mercantile
+portion of the community would lie completely under the surveillance of
+the president, who might at pleasure exercise this immense patronage to
+forward private political designs. No doubt there have been abuses to a
+considerable extent practised by the present bank <a name="Page_240"></a>of the United States in
+the exercise of its functions; but how those abuses are likely to be
+remedied by Jackson's plan, does not appear. For, let the directors be
+appointed by government, or elected by congress, they must still exercise
+discretional power; and they are quite as likely to exercise it
+unwarrantably as those who have a direct interest in the prosperity of the
+concern. I totally disapprove of the attempt to correct the abuses of one
+monopoly by the establishment of another in its stead, of a still more
+dangerous character; and I am inclined to think that if two banks were
+chartered instead of one, each having ample capital to insure public
+confidence, competition alone would furnish a sufficient motive to induce
+them to act with justice and liberality towards the public.</p>
+
+<p>In 1766, Kentucky was first explored, by John Finlay, an Indian trader,
+Colonel Daniel Boon, and others. They again visited it in 1769, when the
+whole party, excepting Boon, were slain by the Indians&mdash;he <a name="Page_241"></a>escaped, and
+reached North Carolina, where he then resided. Accompanied by about forty
+expert hunters, comprised in five families, in the year 1775, he set
+forward to make a settlement in the country. They erected a fort on the
+banks of the Kentucky river, and being joined by several other
+adventurers, they finally succeeded. The Kentuckians tell of many a bloody
+battle fought by these pioneers, and boast that their country has been
+gained, every inch, by conquest.</p>
+
+<p>The climate of Kentucky is favourable to the growth of hemp, flax,
+tobacco, and all kinds of grain. The greater portion of the soil is rich
+loam, black, or mixed with reddish earth, generally to the depth of five
+or six feet, on a limestone bottom. The produce of corn is about sixty
+bushels on an average per acre, and of wheat about thirty-five; cotton is
+partially cultivated. The scenery is varied, and the country well
+watered.</p><a name="Page_242"></a>
+
+<p>The Kentuckians all carry large pocket knives, which they never fail to
+use in a scuffle; and you may see a gentleman seated at the tavern door,
+balanced on two legs of a chair, picking his teeth with a knife, the blade
+of which is full six inches long, or cutting the benches, posts, or any
+thing else that may lie within his reach. Notwithstanding this, the
+Kentuckians are by no means more quarrelsome than any other people of the
+western states; and they are vastly less so than the people of Ireland.
+But when they do commence hostilities, they fight with great bitterness,
+as do most Americans, biting, gouging, and cutting unrelentingly.</p>
+
+<p>I never went into a court-house in the west <i>in summer</i>, without observing
+that the judges and lawyers had their feet invariably placed upon the
+desks before them, and raised much higher than their heads. This, however,
+is only in the western country; for in the courts at Orleans, New York,
+and<a name="Page_243"></a> Philadelphia, the greatest order and regularity is observed. I had
+been told that the judges often slept upon the bench; but I must confess,
+that although I have entered court-houses at all seasons during the space
+of fifteen months, I never saw an instance of it. I have frequently
+remonstrated with the Americans, on the total absence of forms and
+ceremonies in their courts of justice, and was commonly answered by &quot;Yes,
+that may be quite necessary in England, in order to overawe a parcel of
+ignorant creatures, who have no share in making the laws; but with us, a
+man's a man, whether he have a silk gown on him or not; and I guess he can
+decide quite as well without a big wig as with one. You see, we have done
+with wiggery of all kinds; and if one of our judges were to wear such an
+appendage, he'd be taken for a merry-andrew, and the court would become a
+kind of show-box&mdash;instead of such arrangements producing with us
+solemnity, they would produce nothing but <a name="Page_244"></a>laughter, and the greatest
+possible irregularity.&quot;</p>
+
+<p>I was present at an election in the interior of the state. The office was
+that of representative in the state legislature, and the candidates were a
+hatter and a saddler; the former was also a militia major, and a Methodist
+preacher, of the Percival and Gordon school, who eschewed the devil and
+all the backsliding abominations of the flesh, as in duty bound. Sundry
+&quot;stump orations&quot; were delivered on the occasion, for the enlightenment of
+the electors; and towards the close of the proceedings, by way of an
+appropriate finale, the aforesaid triune-citizen and another gentleman,
+had a gouging scrape on the hustings. The major in this contest proved
+himself to be a true Kentuckian; that is, half a horse, and half an
+alligator; which contributed not a little to ensure his return. After the
+election, I was conversing with one of the most violent opponents of the
+successful candidate, and remarked to <a name="Page_245"></a>him, that I supposed he would rally
+his forces at the next election to put out the major: he replied, &quot;I can't
+tell that!&quot; I said, &quot;why? will you not oppose him?&quot; &quot;Oh!&quot; he says, &quot;for
+that matter, he may do his duty pretty well.&quot; &quot;And do you mean to say,&quot;
+continued I, &quot;that if he should do so, you will give him no opposition?&quot;
+He looked at me, as if he did not clearly comprehend, and said, &quot;Why, I
+guess not.&quot;</p>
+
+<p>The boatmen of the Ohio and Mississippi are the most riotous and lawless
+set of people in America, and the least inclined to submit to the
+constituted authorities. At Cincinnati I saw one of those persons
+arrested, on the wharf, for debt. He seemed little inclined to submit; as,
+could he contrive to escape to the opposite shore, he was safe. He called
+upon his companions in the flat-boat, who came instantly to his
+assistance, and were apparently ready to rescue him from the clutches of
+this trans-Atlantic bum-bailiff. The constable instantly pulled out&mdash;not a
+<a name="Page_246"></a>pistol, but a small piece of paper, and said, &quot;I take him in the name of
+the States.&quot; The messmates of this unfortunate navigator looked at him for
+some time, and then one of them said drily, &quot;I guess you must go with the
+constable.&quot; Subsequently, at New York, one evening returning to my hotel,
+I heard a row in a tavern, and wishing to see the process of capturing
+refractory citizens, I entered with some other persons. The constable was
+there unsupported by any of his brethren, and it seemed to me to be
+morally impossible that, without assistance, he could take half a dozen
+fellows, who were with difficulty restrained from whipping each other.
+However, his hand seemed to be as potent as the famous magic wand of
+Armida, for on placing it on the shoulders of the combatants, they fell
+into the ranks, and marched off with him as quietly as if they had been
+sheep. The rationale of the matter is this: those men had all exercised
+the franchise, if not in the election of these <a name="Page_247"></a>very constables, of
+others, and they therefore not only considered it to be their duty to
+support the constable's authority, but actually felt a strong inclination
+to do so. Because they <i>knew</i> that the authority he exercised was only
+delegated to him by themselves, and that, in resisting him, they would
+resist their own sovereignty. Even in large towns in the western country,
+the constable has no men under his command, but always finds most powerful
+allies in the citizens themselves, whenever a lawless scoundrel, or a
+culprit is to be captured.</p>
+
+<p>At Flemingsburg I saw an Albino, a female about fourteen years old. Her
+parents were clear negros, of the Congo or Guinea race, and in every thing
+but colour she perfectly resembled them. Her form, face, and hair,
+possessed the true negro characteristics&mdash;curved shins, projecting jaw,
+retreating forehead, and woolly head. The skin was rather whiter than that
+of the generality of Europeans, but was deficient in glossiness, <a name="Page_248"></a>and
+although perfectly smooth, had a dry appearance. The wool on the head was
+of a light flaxen colour, and the iris of the eye was of a reddish-blue
+tinge. Her eyes were so weak as to bear with difficulty the glare of day.
+Most Albinos are dim sighted until twilight, when they appear to have as
+perfect vision as persons with the strongest sight, and in many cases,
+even more acute. This individual had evidently weak sight, as the eyelids
+were generally half closed, and she always held her head down during day
+light.</p>
+
+<p>Near the banks of the Ohio, full three hundred miles from the sea, I found
+conglomerations of marine shells, mixed with siliceous earth; and in
+nearly all the runs throughout Kentucky, limestone pebbles are found,
+bearing the perfect impressions of the interior of shells. The most
+abundant proofs are every where exhibited, that at one period the vast
+savannahs and lofty mountains of the New world were submerged; and perhaps
+the present bed of the ocean was once covered <a name="Page_249"></a>with verdure, and the seat
+of the sorrows and joys of myriads of human beings, who erected cities,
+and built pyramids, and monuments, which Time has long since swept away,
+and wrapt in his eternal mantle of oblivion. That a constant, but almost
+imperceptible change is hourly taking place in the earth's surface,
+appears to be established; and independent of the extraordinary
+<i>bouleversements</i>, which have at intervals convulsed our globe, this
+gradual revolution has produced, and will produce again, a total
+alteration in the face of nature.</p><a name="Page_250"></a>
+
+<p>FOOTNOTES:</p>
+
+<a name="Footnote_14_14"></a><a href="#FNanchor_14_14">[14]</a><div class="note"><p> Amongst other plans to this effect, there is one proposed, by
+which midshipmen on half-pay will be obliged to make at least two voyages
+annually, in merchant ships, as mates, and all others must have done so,
+in order to entitle them to be reinstated in their former rank. Another
+is, that there shall be small vessels, rigged and fitted out in war style,
+appropriated to the purpose of teaching pupils, practically, the science
+of navigation, and the discipline necessary to be observed on board
+vessels of war. The Americans may not eat their fish with silver forks,
+nor lave their fingers in the most approved style; yet they are by no
+means so contemptible a people as some of our small gentry affect to
+think. They may too, occasionally, be put down in political argument, by
+the dogmatical method of the quarter-deck; but I must confess that <i>I</i>
+never was so fortunate as to come in contact with any who reasoned so
+badly as the persons Captain Bazil Hall introduces in his book.</p></div>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;">
+<a name="CHAPTER_IX"></a><h2><a name="Page_251"></a>CHAPTER IX</h2>
+<br>
+
+<p>The wailings of the Cherokee, the Choctaw, and the Creek, may have been
+wafted across the waters of the great salt lake, and the Pale-face in his
+own land may have heard their lamentations;&mdash;but the distant voice is
+scattered by the passing winds, and is heard like the whisper of a summer
+breeze as it steals along the prairies of the west, or the cry of the
+wish-ton-wish as it faintly reaches the ear of the navigator, when, in the
+stilly night, he floats down &quot;the old father of waters.&quot;</p>
+
+<p>The present posture of Indian affairs, and the peculiar situation of the
+Indian nations east of the Mississippi, have caused <a name="Page_252"></a>that unfortunate
+people to be the topic of much political controversy and conversation; a
+succinct account of the political condition of these tribes, and of the
+policy which has been pursued, and which is being pursued towards them, by
+the executive government, may not therefore be uninteresting.</p>
+
+<p>When Georgia, by becoming a member of the Union, ceded part of her
+sovereignty to the general executive, that government acknowledged her
+claimed limits, and guaranteed to her the protection of the Union against
+foreign and domestic violence. Subsequently, in the year of 1802, in
+consideration of a certain portion of lands ceded, the United States
+became bound to purchase for Georgia, any claim which the Cherokee nation
+might have on lands within her boundaries, whenever such purchase could be
+made on reasonable terms. On these positions are based the Georgian
+claims, which the United States government has hitherto pleaded inability
+to satisfy, inasmuch as all <a name="Page_253"></a>efforts to purchase the Indian lands have
+proved fruitless.</p>
+
+<p>After the lapse of twenty-seven years, Georgia, finding herself precisely
+in the same condition in which she then stood, has determined on forcibly
+taking possession of the Cherokee lands, and extending her sovereignty
+over the Cherokee people. But as this cannot be effected without doing
+manifest violence to the Indian rights, she brings forward arguments to
+show, that <i>she</i> never acknowledged the independence of the Cherokee
+nation; that that nation, from the time of the first settlement made by
+Europeans in America, stood in the position of a conquered people; that
+the sovereignty consequently dwelt in the hands of Great Britain; and
+that, on the Declaration of independence, Georgia, by becoming a free
+state, became invested with all the powers of sovereignty claimed or
+exercised by Great Britain over the Georgian territory: and further, that
+in November, 1785, when the first and only <a name="Page_254"></a>treaty was concluded with the
+Cherokees by the United States, during the articles of confederation, both
+she and North Carolina entered their solemn protests against this alleged
+violation of their legislative rights. The executive government pretends
+not to argue the case with Georgia, and is left no alternative but either
+to annul its <i>conditional</i> treaty with that state, or to cancel <i>thirteen
+distinct treaties</i> entered into with the Indians, despoil them of their
+lands, and rob them of their independence. Jackson's message says, &quot;It is
+too late to inquire whether it was just in the United States to include
+them and their territory within bounds of new states, whose limits they
+could control. That step cannot be retracted. A state cannot be
+dismembered by Congress, or restrained in the exercise of her
+constitutional powers.&quot; Here the executive government acknowledges that it
+made promises to Georgia, which it has been unable to perform&mdash;that it
+guaranteed to that state the possession of lands over which it <a name="Page_255"></a>had no
+legitimate control, on the mere assumption of being able to make their
+purchase.</p>
+
+<p>The Cherokees in their petition and memorials to Congress show, that Great
+Britain never exercised any sovereignty over them;&mdash;that in peace and in
+war she always treated them as a free people, and never assumed to herself
+the right of interfering with their internal government:&mdash;that in every
+treaty made with them by the United States, their sovereignty and total
+independence are clearly acknowledged, and that they have ever been
+considered as a distinct nation, exercising all the privileges and
+immunities enjoyed by any independent people. They say, &quot;In addition to
+that first of all rights, the right of inheritance and peaceable
+possession, we have the faith and pledge of the United States, over and
+over again, in treaties made at various times. By these treaties our
+rights as a separate people are distinctly acknowledged, and guarantees
+given that they shall <a name="Page_256"></a>be secured and protected. So we have also
+understood the treaties. The conduct of the government towards us, from
+its organization until very lately&mdash;the talks given to our beloved men by
+the Presidents of the United States&mdash;and the speeches of the agents and
+commissioners&mdash;all concur to show that we are not mistaken in our
+interpretation. Some of our beloved men who signed the treaties are still
+living, and their testimony tends to the same conclusion.&quot; * * * * &quot;In
+what light shall we view the conduct of the United States and Georgia in
+their intercourse with us, in urging us to enter into treaties and cede
+lands? If we were but tenants at will, why was it necessary that our
+consent must first be obtained before these governments could take lawful
+possession of our lands? The answer is obvious. These governments
+perfectly understand our rights&mdash;our right to the country, and our right
+to self-government. Our understanding of the treaties is further supported
+by the intercourse law of the<a name="Page_257"></a> United States, which prohibits all
+encroachment on our territory.&quot;</p>
+
+<p>The arguments used by the Cherokees are unanswerable; but in what will
+that avail them, when injustice is intended by a superior power, which,
+regardless of national faith, has determined on taking possession of their
+lands? The case stands thus: the executive government enters into an
+agreement with Georgia, and engages to deliver over to the state the
+Indian possessions within her claimed limits&mdash;without the Indians <i>having
+any knowledge of, or participation in the transaction.</i> Now what, may I
+ask, have the Indians to do with this? Ought they to be made answerable
+for the gross misconduct of the two governments, and to be despoiled,
+contrary to every principle of justice, and in defiance of the most plain
+and fundamental law of property? It puts one in mind of the judgment of
+the renowned &quot;Walter the Doubter,&quot; who decided between two citizens, that,
+as their account books appeared to be of equal <i>weight</i>, <a name="Page_258"></a>therefore their
+accounts were balanced, and that <i>the constable</i> should pay the costs. The
+United States government has made several offers to the Cherokees for
+their lands; which they have as constantly refused, and said, &quot;that they
+were very well contented where they were&mdash;that they did not wish to leave
+the bones of their ancestors, and go beyond the Mississippi; but that, if
+the country be so beautiful as their white brother represents it, they
+would recommend their white brother to go there himself.&quot;</p>
+
+<p>Georgia presses upon the executive; which, in this dilemma, comes forward
+with affected sympathy&mdash;deplores the unfortunate situation in which it is
+placed, but of course concludes that faith must be kept with Georgia, and
+that the Cherokee must either go, or submit to laws that make it far
+better for him to go than stay. It is true Jackson says in his message,
+&quot;This emigration should be voluntary; for it would be cruel as unjust to
+compel the Aborigines to abandon the <a name="Page_259"></a>graves of their fathers, and seek a
+home in a distant land.&quot; But General Jackson well knows that the laws of
+Georgia leave the Indian no choice&mdash;as no community of men, civilized or
+savage, could possibly exist under such laws. The benefit and protection
+of the laws, to which the Indian is made subject, are entirely withheld
+from him&mdash;he can be no party to a suit&mdash;he may be robbed and murdered with
+impunity&mdash;his property may be taken, and he may be driven from his
+dwelling&mdash;in fine, he is left liable to every species of insult, outrage,
+cruelty, and dishonesty, without the most distant hope of obtaining
+redress; for in Georgia <i>an Indian cannot be a witness to prove facts
+against a white man.</i> Yet General Jackson says, &quot;this emigration should be
+<i>voluntary</i>;&quot; and in the very same paragraph, with a single sweep of the
+pen, he annihilates all the treaties that have been made with that
+people&mdash;tramples under foot the laws of nations, and deprives the Indian
+of his hunting-grounds, one of his sources <a name="Page_260"></a>of subsistence. He says,&mdash;&quot;But
+it seems to me visionary to suppose that, in this state of things, claims
+can be allowed on tracts of country on which they have neither dwelt nor
+made improvements, merely because they have seen them from the mountain,
+or passed them in the chase.&quot; It certainly may be unphilosophical to
+permit any man to possess more ground than he can till with his own hands;
+yet surely arguments that we do not admit as regards ourselves, we can
+with no sense of propriety use towards others, particularly when our own
+acts are directly in the very teeth of this principle. There is more land
+at present within the limits and in the possession of the United States
+than would be sufficient to support thirty times the present
+population&mdash;yet to this must be added the hunting-grounds of the Indians,
+merely because &quot;it is <i>visionary to suppose</i> they have any claim on what
+they do not <i>actually occupy!&quot;</i></p>
+
+<p>I have now before me the particulars of <a name="Page_261"></a>thirteen treaties<a name="FNanchor_15_15"></a><a href="#Footnote_15_15"><sup>[15]</sup></a> made by the
+United States with the Cherokee nation, from the year 1785 down to 1819
+inclusive; in all of which the rights of the Indians are clearly
+acknow<a name="Page_262"></a>ledged, either directly, or by implication; and by the seventh
+article of the treaty of Holston, executed in 1791, being the first
+concluded with that people by the United States, under their present
+constitution, all the lands not thereby ceded are solemnly guaranteed to
+the Cherokee nation. The subsequent treaties are made with reference to,
+and in confirmation of this, and continually reiterate the guarantees
+therein tendered.</p>
+<a name="Page_263"></a>
+<p>To talk of justice, and honour, would be idle and visionary, for these
+seem to have been thrown overboard at the very commencement of the
+contest; but I would ask the American <i>people</i>, is their conduct towards
+the Indians politic?&mdash;is it politic in America, in the face of civilized
+nations, to violate treaties? is it politic in her, to hold herself up to
+the world as faithless and unjust&mdash;as a nation, which, in defiance of all
+moral obligation, will break her most sacred contracts, whenever it
+becomes no longer her interest to keep them, and she finds herself in a
+condition to do so with impunity? is she not furnishing foreign statesmen
+with a ready and powerful argument in defence of their violating treaties
+with her? can they not with justice say&mdash;America has manifested in her
+proceedings towards the Cherokee nation, that she is faithless&mdash;that she
+keeps no treaties longer than it may be her <i>interest</i> to do so&mdash;and are
+<i>we</i> to make ourselves the dupes of such a power, and wait until she finds
+herself in a condition <a name="Page_264"></a>to deceive us? I could produce many arguments to
+illustrate the impolicy of this conduct; but as I intend confining myself
+to a mere sketch, I shall dwell but as short a time as may be consistent
+on the several facts connected with the case.</p>
+
+<p>That the Aborigines have been cruelly treated, cannot be doubted. The very
+words of the Message admit this; and the tone of feeling and conciliation
+which follows that admission, coupled as it is with the intended injustice
+expressed in other paragraphs, can be viewed in no other light than as a
+piece of political mockery. The Message says, &quot;their present condition,
+contrasted with what they once were, makes a most powerful appeal to our
+sympathies. Our ancestors found them the uncontrolled possessors of these
+vast regions. By persuasion and force, they have been made to retire from
+river to river, and from mountain to mountain, until some of the tribes
+have become extinct, and others have left but remnants, to preserve for <a name="Page_265"></a>a
+while their once terrible names.&quot; Now the plan laid down by the president,
+in order to prevent, if possible, the total decay of the Indian people,
+is, to send them beyond the Mississippi, and <i>guarantee</i> to them the
+possession of ample territory west of that river. How far this is likely
+to answer the purpose <i>expressed</i>, let us now examine.</p>
+
+<p>The Cherokees, by their intercourse with and proximity to the white
+people, have become half civilized; and how is it likely that <i>their</i>
+condition will be improved by driving them into the forests and barren
+prairies? That territory is at present the haunt of the Pawnees, the
+Osages, and other warlike nations, who live almost entirely by the chase,
+and are constantly waging war even with each other. As soon as the
+Cherokees, and other half-civilized Indians, appear, they will be regarded
+as common intruders, and be subject to the united attacks of these people.
+There are even old feuds existing among themselves, which, it is but too
+<a name="Page_266"></a>probable, may be renewed. Trappers and hunters, in large parties, yearly
+make incursions into the country beyond the boundaries of the United
+States, and in defiance of the Indians kill the beaver and the
+buffalo&mdash;the latter merely for the <i>tongue and skin</i>, leaving the carcase
+to rot upon the ground.<a name="FNanchor_16_16"></a><a href="#Footnote_16_16"><sup>[16]</sup></a> Thus is this unfortunate race robbed of their
+means <a name="Page_267"></a>of subsistence. Moreover, what guarantee can the Indians have, that
+the United States will keep faith for the future, when it is admitted that
+they have not done so in times past? How can they be sure that they may
+not further be driven from river to river, and from mountain to mountain,
+until they reach the shores of the Pacific; and who can tell but that then
+it may be found expedient to drive them into the ocean?</p>
+
+<p>The policy of the United States government is evidently to get the Indians
+to exterminate each other. Its whole proceedings from the time this
+question was first agitated to the present, but too clearly indicate this
+intention; and if we wanted proof, that the executive government of the
+United States <i>would act</i> on so barbarous and inhuman a policy, we need
+only refer to the allocation of the Cherokees, who exchanged lands in
+Tennessee for lands west of the Mississippi, pursuant to the treaty of
+1819. It was well known that a deadly enmity <a name="Page_268"></a>existed between the Osages
+and Cherokees, and that any proximity of the two people, would inevitably
+lead to fatal results; yet, with this knowledge, the executive government
+placed those Cherokees in the country lying between the Arkansaw and Red
+rivers, <i>immediately joining the territory of the Osages.</i> It is
+unnecessary to state that the result was <i>as anticipated</i>&mdash;they daily
+committed outrages upon the persons and properties of each other, and the
+death of many warriors, on both sides, ensued.</p>
+
+<p>The sympathy expressed in that part of the Message relating to the
+Indians, if expressed with sincerity, would do much honour to the feelings
+that dictated it; but when we come to examine the facts, and investigate
+the implied allegations, we shall find that they are most gratuitous; and,
+consequently, that the regret of the president at the probable fate of the
+Indian, should he remain east of the Mississippi, is grossly hypocritical.
+He says, &quot;surrounded <a name="Page_269"></a>by the whites, with their arts of civilization,
+which, by destroying the resources of the savage, doom him to weakness and
+decay:<a name="FNanchor_17_17"></a><a href="#Footnote_17_17"><sup>[17]</sup></a> the fate of the Mohegan, the Narragansett, and the Delaware, is
+fast overtaking the Choctaw, the Cherokee, and the Creek. That this fate
+surely awaits them, if they remain within the limits of the States, does
+not admit of a doubt. Humanity and national honour demand that every
+effort should be made to avert so great a calamity.&quot; From what facts the
+president has drawn these conclusions does not appear. Neither the
+statements of the Cherokees, nor of the Indian agents, nor the report of
+the secretary of war, furnish any such information; on the contrary, with
+the exception of one or two agents <i>at Washington</i>, all give the <a name="Page_270"></a>most
+flattering accounts of advancement in civilization. The Rev. Samuel A.
+Worcester, in his letter to the Rev. E.S. Ely, editor of the
+&quot;Philadelphian,&quot; completely refutes all the unfavourable statements that
+have been got up to cover the base conduct of Jackson and the slavites.
+This gentleman has resided for the last four years among the Cherokees,
+and has surely had abundant means of observing their condition.</p>
+
+<p>The letter of David Brown (a Cherokee), addressed, September 2, 1825, to
+the editor of &quot;The Family Visitor,&quot; at Richmond, Virginia, states, that
+&quot;the Cherokee plains are covered with herds of cattle&mdash;sheep, goats, and
+swine, cover the valleys and hills&mdash;the plains and valleys are rich, and
+produce Indian corn, cotton, tobacco, wheat, oats, indigo, sweet and Irish
+potatoes, &amp;c. The natives carry on a considerable trade with the adjoining
+states, and some of them export cotton in boats down the Tennessee to the
+Mississippi, and down that river to<a name="Page_271"></a> New Orleans. Orchards are
+common&mdash;cheese, butter, &amp;c. plenty&mdash;houses of entertainment are kept by
+natives. Cotton and woollen cloths are manufactured in the nation, and
+almost every family grows cotton for its own consumption. Agricultural
+pursuits engage the chief attention of the nation&mdash;different branches of
+mechanics are pursued. Schools are increasing every year, and education is
+encouraged and rewarded.&quot; To quote David Brown verbatim, on the
+population,&mdash;&quot;In the year 1819, an estimate was made of the Cherokees.
+Those on the west were estimated at 5,000, and those on the east of the
+Mississippi, at 10,000 souls. The census of this division of the Cherokees
+has again been taken within the current year (1825), and the returns are
+thus made: native citizens, 13,563; white men married in the nation, 147;
+white women ditto, 73; African slaves, 1177. If this summary of the
+Cherokee population, from the census, is correct, to say nothing <a name="Page_272"></a>of those
+of foreign extract, we find that in six years the increase has been 3,563
+souls. National pride, patriotism, and a spirit of independence, mark the
+Cherokee character.&quot; He further states, &quot;the system of government is
+founded on republican principles, and secures the respect of the people.&quot;
+An alphabet has been invented by an Indian, named George Guess, the
+Cherokee Cadmus, and a printing press has been established at New Echota,
+the seat of government, where there is published weekly a paper entitled,
+&quot;The Cherokee Phoenix,&quot;&mdash;one half being in the English language, and the
+other in that of the Cherokee.</p>
+
+<p>The report of the secretary of war, upon the present condition of the
+Indians, states of the Chickesaws and Choctaws, all that has been above
+said of the Cherokees. But of the last-mentioned people, the secretary's
+accounts appear to be studiously defective. Yet the fact is notorious,
+that both the<a name="Page_273"></a> Chickesaws and Choctaws are far behind the Cherokees in
+civilization.</p>
+
+<p>With these facts before our eyes, what are we to think of the grief of the
+president, at the decay and increasing weakness of the Cherokees? Can it
+be regarded in any way but as a piece of shameless hypocrisy, too glaring
+in its character to escape the notice even of the most inobservant
+individual. It has been said that the question involves many
+difficulties&mdash;to me there appears none. The United States, in the year
+1791, guarantee to the Indians the possession of all their lands not then
+ceded&mdash;and confirm this by numerous subsequent treaties. In 1802, they
+promise to Georgia, the possession of the Cherokee lands &quot;<i>whenever such
+purchase could be made on reasonable terms</i>&quot; This is the simple state of
+the case; and if the executive were inclined to act uprightly, the line of
+conduct to be pursued could be determined on without much difficulty.
+Georgia has no right to press upon the executive the <a name="Page_274"></a>fulfilment of
+engagements which were made conditionally, and consequently with an
+implied reservation; and the United States should not violate <i>many
+positive treaties</i>, in order to fulfil <i>a conditional one</i>.<a name="FNanchor_18_18"></a><a href="#Footnote_18_18"><sup>[18]</sup></a></p>
+
+<p>I shall now advert to some of the charges touching the character of the
+Indians. It is said, that they are debauched and insincere. This charge
+has been particularly made against the Creeks, and I believe is not
+altogether unfounded. Yet, if this be now the character of the once
+warlike and noble Creek, let the white man ask himself who has made him
+so? Who makes the &quot;firewater,&quot; and who supplies the untutored savage with
+the means of intoxication? The white-man, when he wishes to trade
+profitably with the Indian, fills the cup, and holds it forth&mdash;he says,
+'drink, my brother, it is good'&mdash;the red-man drinks, and the <a name="Page_275"></a>wily white
+points at his condition, says he is uncivilized, and should go forth from
+the land, for his presence is contamination!</p>
+
+<p>As to the charge of hypocrisy&mdash;this too has been taught or forced upon the
+Indians by the conduct of the whites. Missionaries have been constantly
+going among them, teaching dogmas and doctrines, far beyond the
+comprehension of some learned white-men, and to the savage totally
+unintelligible. These gentlemen have told long stories; and when posed by
+some quaint saying, or answered by some piece of traditional information,
+handed down from generation to generation, by the fathers and mothers of
+the tribe, have found it necessary to purchase the acquiescence of a few
+Indians by bribes, in order that their labours might not seem to have been
+altogether unsuccessful. This conduct of the Missionaries was soon
+<i>understood</i> by the Indians, and the temptation held out was too great to
+be resisted. Blankets and gowns converted, when inspiration and gospel
+truths had failed.</p><a name="Page_276"></a>
+
+<p>Mr. Houston of Tennessee, after having attained the honour of being
+governor of his state, and having enjoyed all the consideration
+necessarily attached to that office, at length became tired of civilized
+life, and retired among the Creeks to end his days. He has resided long
+among them, and knows their character well; yet, in one of his statements
+made to the Indian board at New York, he says, that the attempts to
+Christianize the Indians in their present state, he was of opinion, much
+as he honoured the zeal that had prompted them, were fruitless, <i>or
+worse.</i> The supposed conversions had produced no change of habits. So
+degraded had become the character of this once independent people, that
+professions of religious belief had been made, and the ordinances of
+religion submitted to, &quot;when an Indian wanted a new blanket, or a squaw a
+new gown.&quot;<a name="FNanchor_19_19"></a><a href="#Footnote_19_19"><sup>[19]</sup></a> Thus, <a name="Page_277"></a>according to governor Houston, the only fruits
+produced by the boasted labours of the missionaries, have been
+dissimulation and deceit; and demoralization has been the result of
+teaching <i>doctrinal</i> Christianity to the children of the forest. Yet we
+must, in candour, acknowledge that Mr. Houston is not singular in that
+opinion, since we find, so far back as the year 1755, Cadwallader Calden
+express himself much to the same effect. &quot;The Five Nations,&quot; he says, &quot;are
+a poor and generally called barbarous people, bred under the darkest
+ignorance; and yet a bright and noble genius shines through these black
+clouds. None of the greatest Roman heroes have discovered a greater love
+of country, or contempt of death, than these people, called barbarous,
+have shown when liberty came in competition. Indeed I think our Indians
+have outdone the Romans in this particular. Some of the greatest of those
+Roman heroes have murdered themselves to avoid shame or torments; but our<a name="Page_278"></a>
+Indians have refused to die meanly or with little pain, when they thought
+their country's honour would be at stake by it; but have given their
+bodies willingly to the most cruel torments of their enemies, to show, as
+they said, that 'the Five Nations' consisted of men whose courage and
+resolution could not be shaken. But what, alas! have we Christians done to
+make them better? We have, indeed, reason to be ashamed that these
+infidels, by our conversation and neighbourhood, are become worse than
+they were before they knew us. Instead of virtue, we have only taught them
+vice, that they were entirely free from before that time.&quot;<a name="FNanchor_20_20"></a><a href="#Footnote_20_20"><sup>[20]</sup></a> The Rev.
+Timothy Flint, who was himself a missionary, in his &quot;Ten Years' Residence
+in the Valley of the Mississippi,&quot; observes, page<a name="Page_279"></a> 144,&mdash;&quot;I have surely
+had it in my heart to impress them with the importance of the subject
+(religion). I have scarcely noticed an instance in which the subject was
+not received either with indifference, rudeness, or jesting. Of all races
+of men that I have seen, they seem most incapable of religious
+impressions. They have, indeed, some notions of an invisible agent, but
+they seemed generally to think that the Indians had their god as the
+whites had theirs.&quot; And again, &quot;nothing will eventually be gained to the
+great cause by colouring and mis-statement,&quot; alluding to the practice of
+the missionaries; &quot;and however reluctant we may be to receive it, the real
+state of things will eventually be known to us. We have heard of the
+imperishable labours of an Elliott and a Brainard, in other days. But in
+these times it is a melancholy truth, that Protestant exertions to
+Christianize them have not been marked with apparent success. The
+Catholics have caused many to hang a crucifix <a name="Page_280"></a>around their necks, which
+they show as they show their medals and other ornaments, and this is too
+often all they have to mark them as Christians. We have read the
+narratives of the Catholics, which detailed the most glowing and animating
+views of success. I have had accounts, however, from travellers in these
+regions, that have been over the Stony mountains into the great missionary
+settlements of St. Peter and St. Paul. These travellers (and some of them
+were professed Catholics) unite in affirming that the converts will escape
+from the missions whenever it is in their power, fly into their native
+deserts, and resume at once their old mode of life.&quot;</p>
+
+<p>That the vast sums expended on missions should have produced so little
+effect, we may consider lamentable, but it is lamentably true; for in
+addition to the mass of evidence we have to that effect, from
+disinterested white men, we have also the speeches and communications of
+the Indians themselves. The celebrated Seneca chief, Saguyuwhaha<a name="Page_281"></a> (keeper
+awake), better known in the United States by the name of Red-jacket, in a
+letter communicated to Governor De Witt Clinton, at a treaty held at
+Albany, says, &quot;Our great father, the President, has recommended to our
+young men to be industrious, to plough and to sow. This we have done; and
+we are thankful for the advice, and for the means he has afforded us of
+carrying it into effect. We are happier in consequence of it; <i>but another
+thing recommended to us, has created great confusion among us, and is
+making us a quarrelsome and divided people; and that is, the introduction
+of preachers into our nation</i>. These black-coats contrive to get the
+consent of some of the Indians to preach among us; and whenever this is
+the case, confusion and disorder are sure to follow, and the encroachment
+of the whites on our lands is the inevitable consequence.</p>
+
+<p>&quot;The governor must not think hard of me for speaking thus of the
+preachers: I <a name="Page_282"></a>have observed their progress, and whenever I look back to
+see what has taken place of old, I perceive that whenever they came among
+the Indians, they were the forerunners of their dispersion; that they
+always excited enmities and quarrels amongst them; that they introduced
+the white people on their lands, by whom they were robbed and plundered of
+their property; and that the Indians were sure to dwindle and decrease,
+and be driven back, in proportion to the number of preachers that came
+among them.</p>
+
+<p>&quot;Each nation has its own customs and its own religion. The Indians have
+theirs, given them by the Great Spirit, under which they were happy. It
+was not intended that they should embrace the religion of the whites, and
+be destroyed by the attempt to make them think differently on that subject
+from their fathers.</p>
+
+<p>&quot;It is true, these preachers have got the consent of some of the chiefs to
+stay and preach amongst us; but I and my friends <a name="Page_283"></a>know this to be wrong,
+and that they ought to be removed; besides, we have been threatened by Mr.
+Hyde&mdash;who came among us as a schoolmaster and a teacher of our children,
+but has now become a black-coat, and refuses to teach them any more&mdash;that
+unless we listen to his preaching and become Christians, we shall be
+turned off our lands. We wish to know from the governor, if this is to be
+so? and if he has no right to say so, we think <i>he</i> ought to be turned off
+our lands, and not allowed to plague us any more. We shall never be at
+peace while he is among us.</p>
+
+<p>&quot;We are afraid too, that these preachers, by and by, will become poor,
+<i>and force us to pay them for living among us, and disturbing us.</i></p>
+
+<p>&quot;Some of our chiefs have got lazy, and instead of cultivating their lands
+themselves, employ white people to do so. There are now eleven families
+living on our reservation at Buffalo; this is wrong, and ought not to <a name="Page_284"></a>be
+permitted. The great source of all our grievances is, that the whites are
+among us. Let <i>them</i> be removed, and we will be happy and contented among
+ourselves. We now cry to the governor for help, and hope that he will
+attend to our complaints, and speedily give us redress.&quot;<a name="FNanchor_21_21"></a><a href="#Footnote_21_21"><sup>[21]</sup></a></p>
+
+<p>This melancholy hostility to the missionaries is not confined to a
+particular tribe or nation of Indians, for all those people, in every
+situation, from the base of the Alleghanies to the foot of the Rocky
+mountains, declare the same sentiments on this subject; and although
+policy or courtesy may induce some chiefs to express themselves less
+strongly than Red-jacket has expressed himself, we have but too many
+proofs that their feelings are not more moderate. On the fourth of
+February, 1822, the president of the United States, in council, received a
+<a name="Page_285"></a>deputation of Indians, from the principal nations west of the
+Mississippi, who came under the protection of Major O'Fallon, when each
+chief delivered a speech on the occasion. I shall here insert an extract
+from that of the &quot;Wandering Pawnee&quot; chief, more as a specimen of Indian
+wisdom and eloquence than as bearing particularly on the subject. Speaking
+of the Great Spirit, he said, &quot;We worship him not as you do. We differ
+from you in appearance, and manners, as well as in our customs; and we
+differ from you in our religion. We have no large houses, as you have, to
+worship the Great Spirit in: if we had them to-day, we should want others
+to-morrow; for we have not like you a fixed habitation&mdash;we have no settled
+home except our villages, where we remain but two months in twelve. We,
+like animals, rove through the country; whilst you whites reside between
+us and heaven. But still, my great Father, we love the Great Spirit&mdash;we
+acknowledge his supreme power&mdash;<a name="Page_286"></a>our peace, our health, and our happiness
+depend upon him, and our lives belong to him&mdash;he made us, and he can
+destroy us.</p>
+
+<p>&quot;My great Father,&mdash;some of your good chiefs, as they are called
+(missionaries), have proposed to send some of their good people among us
+to change our habits, to make us work for them, and live like the white
+people. I will not tell a lie&mdash;I am going to tell the truth. You love your
+country&mdash;you love your people&mdash;you love the manner in which they live, and
+you think your people brave. I am like you, my great Father; I love my
+country&mdash;I love my people&mdash;I love the manner in which we live, and think
+myself and warriors brave.<a name="FNanchor_22_22"></a><a href="#Footnote_22_22"><sup>[22]</sup></a> Spare me then, my<a name="Page_287"></a> Father; let me enjoy my
+country, and pursue the buffalo and the beaver, and the other wild animals
+of our country, and I will trade their skins with your people. I have
+grown up and lived thus long without work&mdash;I am in hopes you will suffer
+me to die without it. We have plenty of buffalo, beaver, deer, and other
+wild animals&mdash;we have also an abundance of horses&mdash;we have every thing we
+want&mdash;we have plenty of land, <i>if you will keep your people off it</i>. My
+Father has a piece on which he lives (Council bluffs), and we wish him to
+enjoy it&mdash;we have <a name="Page_288"></a>enough without it&mdash;but we wish him to live near us, to
+give us good council&mdash;to keep our ears and eyes open, that we may continue
+to pursue the right road&mdash;the road to happiness. He settles all
+differences between us and the whites, between the red-skins
+themselves&mdash;he makes the whites do justice to the red-skins, and he makes
+the red-skins do justice to the whites. He saves the effusion of human
+blood, and restores peace and happiness in the land. You have already sent
+us a father (Major O'Fallon); it is enough&mdash;he knows us, and we know
+him&mdash;we keep our eye constantly upon him, and since we have heard <i>your</i>
+words, we will listen more attentively to <i>his</i>.</p>
+
+<p>&quot;It is too soon, my great Father, to send those good chiefs amongst us.
+<i>We are not starving yet</i>&mdash;we wish you to permit us to enjoy the chase
+until the game of our country is exhausted&mdash;until the wild animals become
+extinct. Let us exhaust our present resources <a name="Page_289"></a>before you make us toil and
+interrupt our happiness. Let me continue to live as I have done; and after
+I have passed to the good or evil spirit, from off the wilderness of my
+present life, the subsistence of my children may become so precarious as
+to need and embrace the assistance of those good people.</p>
+
+<p>&quot;There was a time when we did not know the whites&mdash;our wants were then
+fewer than they are now. They were always within our control&mdash;we had then
+seen nothing which we could not get. Before our intercourse with the
+whites (who have caused such a destruction in our game) we could lie down
+to sleep, and when we awoke we would find the buffalo feeding around our
+camp&mdash;but now we are killing them for their skins, and feeding the wolves
+with their flesh, to make our children cry over their bones.</p>
+
+<p>&quot;Here, my great Father, is a pipe which I present to you, as I am
+accustomed to present pipes to all the Red-skins in peace with us. It is
+filled with such tobacco as we were accustomed to smoke before we knew
+<a name="Page_290"></a>the white people. It is pleasant, and the spontaneous growth of the most
+remote parts of our country. I know that the robes, leggings, and
+moccasins, and bear-claws are of little value to <i>you</i>; but we wish you to
+have them deposited and preserved in some conspicuous part of your lodge,
+so that when we are gone and the sod turned over our bones, if our
+children should visit this place, as we do now, they may see and recognize
+with pleasure the depositories of their fathers; and reflect on the times
+that are past.&quot;</p>
+
+<p>I shall now take leave of the Indians and their political condition, by
+observing that the proceedings of the American government, throughout,
+towards this brave but unfortunate race, have only been exceeded in
+atrocity by the past and present conduct of the East India government
+towards the pusillanimous but unoffending Hindoos.</p>
+
+<div class="blkquot"><p><i>Note</i>.&mdash;This chapter I wrote during my stay in Kentucky, and the
+    first part of it, in substance, was inserted in the &quot;Kentucky
+    Intelligencer,&quot; at the request of the talented editor and
+    proprietor, John Mullay, Esq.</p></div>
+
+<p>FOOTNOTES:</p>
+
+<a name="Footnote_15_15"></a><a href="#FNanchor_15_15">[15]</a><div class="note"><p> In November, 1785, during the articles of confederation, a
+treaty is concluded with the Cherokees, which establishes a boundary, and
+allots to the Indians a great extent of country, now within the limits of
+North Carolina and Georgia.
+</p><p>
+In 1791, the treaty of Holston is concluded; by which a new boundary is
+agreed upon. This was the first treaty made by the United States under
+their present constitution; and by the seventh article, a solemn guarantee
+is given for all the lands not then ceded.
+</p><p>
+On the 7th of February, 1792, by an additional article to the last treaty,
+500 dollars are added to the stipulated annuity.
+</p><p>
+In June, 1794, another treaty is entered into, in which the provisions of
+the treaty of 1791 are revived, an addition is made to the annuity, and
+provision made for marking the boundary line.
+</p><p>
+In October, 1798, a treaty is concluded which revives former treaties, and
+curtails the boundary of Indian lands by a cession to the United States,
+for an additional compensation.
+</p><p>
+In October, 1804, a treaty is concluded, by which, for a consideration
+specified, more land is ceded.
+</p><p>
+In October, 1805, two treaties are made, by which an additional quantity
+of land is ceded.
+</p><p>
+On 7th January, 1806, by another treaty, more land is ceded to the United
+States.
+</p><p>
+In September, 1807, the boundary line intended in the last treaty,
+is satisfactorily ascertained.
+</p><p>
+On 22d March, 1816, a treaty is concluded, by which lands in South
+Carolina are ceded, for which the United States engage South
+Carolina shall pay. On the same day another treaty is made, by
+which the Indians agree to allow the use of the water-courses in
+their country, and also to permit roads to be made through the
+same.
+</p><p>
+On the 14th of September, 1816, a treaty is made, by which an
+additional quantity of land is ceded to the United States.
+</p><p>
+On the 8th of July, 1817, a treaty is concluded, by which an
+exchange of lands is agreed on, and a plan for dividing the
+Cherokees settled.
+</p><p>
+On the 27th of February, 1819, another treaty is concluded, in
+execution of the stipulations contained in that of 1817, in
+several particulars, and in which an additional tract of country
+is ceded to the United States.</p></div>
+
+<a name="Footnote_16_16"></a><a href="#FNanchor_16_16">[16]</a><div class="note"><p> &quot;The white hunter, on encamping in his journeys, cuts down
+green trees, and builds a large fire of long logs, sitting at some
+distance from it. The Indian hunts up a few dry limbs, cracks them into
+little pieces a foot in length, builds a small fire, and sits close to it.
+He gets as much warmth as the white hunter without half the labour, and
+does not burn more than a fiftieth part of the wood. The Indian considers
+the forest his own, and is careful in using and preserving every thing
+which it affords. He never kills more than he has occasion for. The white
+hunter destroys all before him, and cannot resist the opportunity of
+killing game, although he neither wants the meat nor can carry the skins.
+I was particularly struck with this wanton practice, which lately occurred
+on White river. A hunter returning from the woods, heavily laden with the
+flesh and skins of five bears, unexpectedly arrived in the midst of a
+drove of buffalos, and wantonly shot down three, having no other object
+than the sport of killing them. This is one of the causes of the enmity
+existing between the white and red hunters of Missouri&quot;.&mdash;<i>Schoolcroft's
+Tour in Missouri</i>, page 52.</p></div>
+
+<a name="Footnote_17_17"></a><a href="#FNanchor_17_17">[17]</a><div class="note"><p> Does the General include among the arts of civilization, that
+of systematically robbing the Indians of their farms and hunting grounds?
+If so, no doubt <i>these arts of civilization</i>, must inevitably &quot;destroy the
+resources of the savage,&quot; and &quot;doom him to weakness and decay.&quot;</p></div>
+
+<a name="Footnote_18_18"></a><a href="#FNanchor_18_18">[18]</a><div class="note"><p> The Indians apply the term &quot;Christian honesty,&quot; precisely in
+the same sense that the Romans applied &quot;<i>Punica fides</i>.&quot;</p></div>
+
+<a name="Footnote_19_19"></a><a href="#FNanchor_19_19">[19]</a><div class="note"><p> There is an old Indian at present in the Missouri territory,
+to whom his tribe has given the cognomen of &quot;much-water,&quot; from the
+circumstance of his having been baptized so frequently.</p></div>
+
+<a name="Footnote_20_20"></a><a href="#FNanchor_20_20">[20]</a><div class="note"><p> Heriot says (page 320), &quot;They have evinced a decided
+attachment to their ancient habits, and have <i>gained</i> less from the means
+that might have smoothed the asperities of their condition, than they have
+<i>lost</i> by copying the vices of those, who exhibited to their view the arts
+of civilization.&quot;</p></div>
+
+<a name="Footnote_21_21"></a><a href="#FNanchor_21_21">[21]</a><div class="note"><p> This letter was dictated by Red-jacket, and interpreted by
+Henry Obeal, in the presence of ten chiefs, whose names are affixed, at
+Canandaigua, January 18, 1821.</p></div>
+
+<a name="Footnote_22_22"></a><a href="#FNanchor_22_22">[22]</a><div class="note"><p> &quot;The attachment which savages entertain for their mode of life
+supersedes every allurement, however powerful, to change it. Many
+Frenchmen have lived with them, and have imbibed such an invincible
+partiality for that independent and erratic condition, that no means could
+prevail on them to abandon it. On the contrary, no single instance has yet
+occurred of a savage being able to reconcile himself to a state of
+civilization. Infants have been taken from among the natives, and educated
+with much care in France, where they could not possibly have intercourse
+with their countrymen and relations. Although they had remained several
+years in that country, and could not form the smallest idea of the wilds
+of America, the force of blood predominated over that of education: no
+sooner did they find themselves at liberty than they tore their clothes in
+pieces, and went to traverse the forests in search of their countrymen,
+whose mode of life appeared to them far more agreeable than that which
+they had led among the French.&quot;&mdash;<i>-Heriot</i>, p. 354.
+</p><p>
+This passage of Heriot's is taken nearly verbatim from Charlevoix, v. 2,
+p. 109.</p></div>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;">
+<a name="CHAPTER_X"></a><h2><a name="Page_291"></a>CHAPTER X</h2>
+<br>
+
+<p>I left Kentucky, and passed up the river to Wheeling, in Virginia. There
+is little worthy of observation encountered in a passage up this part of
+the Ohio, except the peculiar character of the stream, which has been
+before alluded to. At Marietta, at the mouth of the Muskingum,
+ship-building is carried on; and vessels have been constructed at
+Pittsburg, full 2000 miles from the gulf of Mexico. About seventy miles up
+the Kenhawa river, in Virginia, are situated the celebrated salt springs,
+the most productive of any in the Union. They are at present in the
+possession of a chartered company, which limits the manufacture to<a name="Page_292"></a>
+800,000 bushels annually, but it is estimated that the fifty-seven wells
+are capable of yielding 50,000 bushels each, per annum, which would make
+an aggregate of 2,850,000 bushels. Many of these springs issue out of
+rocks, and the water is so strongly impregnated with salt, that from 90 to
+130 gallons yield a bushel. The whole western country bordering the Ohio
+and its tributaries, is supplied with salt from these works.</p>
+
+<p>Wheeling, although not large, enjoys a considerable share of commercial
+intercourse, being an entrep&ocirc;t for eastern merchandize, which is
+transported from the Atlantic cities across the mountains to this town and
+Pittsburg, and from thence by water to the different towns along the
+rivers.</p>
+
+<p>The process of &quot;hauling&quot; merchandize from Baltimore and Philadelphia to
+the banks of the Ohio, and <i>vice vers&acirc;</i>, is rather tedious, the roads
+lying across steep and rugged mountains. Large covered waggons, light and
+strong, drawn by five or six horses, <a name="Page_293"></a>two and two, are employed for this
+purpose. The waggoner always rides the near shaft horse, and guides the
+team by means of reins, a whip, and his voice. The time generally consumed
+in one of these journeys is from twenty to twenty-five days.</p>
+
+<p>All the mountains or hills on the upper part of the Ohio, from Wheeling to
+Pittsburg, contain immense beds of coal; this added to the mineral
+productions, particularly that of iron ore, which abound in this section
+of country, offers advantages for manufacturing, which are of considerable
+importance, and are fully appreciated. Pittsburg is called the Birmingham
+of America. Some of those coal beds are well circumstanced, the coal being
+found immediately under the super-stratum, and the galleries frequently
+running out on the high road. Notwithstanding the local advantages, and
+the protection and encouragement at present afforded by the tariff,
+England need never fear any extensive competition with her <a name="Page_294"></a>manufactures
+in foreign markets from America, as the high spirit of the people of that
+country will always prevent them from pursuing, extensively, the sordid
+occupations of the loom or the workshop.</p>
+
+<p>The upper parts of Virginia and Pennsylvania are in a high state of
+improvement; the land is hilly, and the face of the country picturesque.
+The farms are well cultivated, and there is a large portion of pasture
+land in this and the adjoining states. I encountered several large droves
+of horses and black cattle on their way to the neighbourhood of
+Philadelphia and to the state of New York. The black cattle are purchased
+principally in Ohio, whence they are brought into the Atlantic states, to
+be fattened and consumed. The farmers and their families in Pennsylvania,
+have an appearance of comfort and respectability a good deal resembling
+that of the substantial English yeoman; yet farming here, as in all parts
+of the country, is a laborious occupation.</p><a name="Page_295"></a>
+
+<p>I crossed the Monongahela at Williamsport, and the Youghaghany at
+Robstown, and so on through Mountpleasant to the first ridge of mountains,
+called &quot;the chestnut ridge.&quot; I determined on crossing the mountains on
+foot; and after having made arrangements to that effect, I commenced
+sauntering along the road. Near Mountpleasant, I stopped to dine at the
+house of a Dutchman by descent. After dinner, the party adjourned, as is
+customary, to the bar-room, when divers political and polemical topics
+were canvassed with the usual national warmth. An account of his late
+Majesty's death was inserted in a Philadelphia paper, and happened to be
+noticed by one of the politicians present, when the landlord asked me how
+we elected our king in England. I replied that he was not elected, but
+that he became king by birthright, &amp;c. A Kentuckian observed, placing his
+leg on the back of the next chair, &quot;That's a kind of unnatural.&quot; An
+Indianian said, &quot;I don't <a name="Page_296"></a>believe in that system myself.&quot; A third&mdash;&quot;Do you
+mean to tell me, that because the last king was a smart man and knew his
+duty, that his son, or his brother, should be a smart man, and fit for the
+situation?&quot; I explained that we had a premier, ministers, &amp;c.;&mdash;when the
+last gentleman replied, &quot;Then you pay half-a-dozen men to do one man's
+business. Yes&mdash;yes&mdash;that may do for Englishmen very well; but, I guess, it
+would not go down here&mdash;no, no, Americans are a little more enlightened
+than to stand that kind of wiggery.&quot; During this conversation, a person
+had stepped into the room, and had taken his seat in silence. I was about
+to reply to the last observations of my antagonist, when this gentleman
+opened out, with, &quot;yes! that may do for Englishmen very well&quot;&mdash;he was an
+Englishman, I knew at once by his accent, and I verily believe the
+identical radical who set the village of Bracebridge by the ears, and
+pitched the villagers to the devil, on seeing them grin through a
+<a name="Page_297"></a>horse-collar, when they should have been calculating the interest of the
+national debt, or conning over the list of sinecure placemen. He held in
+his hand, instead of &quot;Cobbett's Register,&quot; the &quot;Greenville
+Republican.&quot;&mdash;He had substituted for his short-sleeved coat, &quot;a
+round-about.&quot;&mdash;He seemed to have put on flesh, and looked somewhat more
+contented. &quot;Yes, yes,&quot; he says, &quot;that may do for Englishmen very well, but
+it won't do here. Here we make our own laws, and we keep them too. It may
+do for Englishmen very well, to have <i>the liberty</i> of paying taxes for the
+support of the nobility. To have <i>the liberty</i> of being incarcerated in a
+gaol, for shooting the wild animals of the country. To have <i>the liberty</i>
+of being seized by a press-gang, torn away from their wives and families,
+and flogged at the discretion of my lord Tom, Dick, or Harry's bastard.&quot;
+At this, the Kentuckian gnashed his teeth, and instinctively grasped his
+hunting-knife;&mdash;an old Indian doctor, who was squatting in one <a name="Page_298"></a>corner of
+the room, said, slowly and emphatically, as his eyes glared, his nostrils
+dilated, and his lip curled with contempt&mdash;&quot;The Englishman is a
+dog&quot;&mdash;while a Georgian slave, who stood behind his master's chair, grinned
+and chuckled with delight, as he said&mdash;&quot;<i>poor</i> Englishman, him meaner man
+den black nigger.&quot;&mdash;&quot;To have,&quot; continued the Englishman, &quot;<i>the liberty</i> of
+being transported for seven years for being caught learning the use of the
+sword or the musket. To have the tenth lamb, and the tenth sheaf seized,
+or the blanket torn from off his bed, to pay a bloated, a plethoric bishop
+or parson,&mdash;to be kicked and cuffed about by a parcel of 'Bourbon
+<i>gendarmerie</i>'&mdash;Liberty!&mdash;why hell sweat&quot;&mdash;here I&mdash;slipped out at the side
+door into the water-melon patch. As I receded, I heard the whole party
+burst out into an obstreperous fit of laughter.&mdash;A few broken sentences,
+from the Kentuckian and the radical, reached my ear, such as &quot;backed
+out&quot;&mdash;&quot;damned aristocratic.&quot; I returned in <a name="Page_299"></a>about half an hour to pay my
+bill, when I could observe one or two of those doughty politicians who
+remained, leering at me most significantly. However, I&mdash;&quot;smiled, and said
+nothing.&quot;</p>
+
+<p>&quot;The Chestnut ridge&quot; is a chain of rocky, barren mountains, covered with
+wood, and the ascent is steep and difficult. It is named from the quantity
+of chestnut trees that compose the bulk of its timber. Being a little
+fatigued in ascending, I sat down in a wood of scrub oak. When I had been
+some time seated on a large stone, my ear caught the gliding of a snake.
+Turning quickly, I perceived, at about a yard's distance, a reptile of
+that beautiful species the rattle-snake. He ceased moving: I jumped up,
+and struck at his head with a stick, but missed the blow. He instantly
+coiled and rattled. I now retreated beyond the range of his spring.
+Perceiving that I had no intention of giving him fair play by coming
+within his reach, he suddenly uncoiled and glid <a name="Page_300"></a>across a log, thinking to
+make good his retreat; but being determined on having&mdash;not his scalp, for
+the head of a rattle-snake is rather a dangerous toy&mdash;but his rattle, I
+pursued him across the log. He now coiled again, and rattled most
+furiously, thus indicating his extreme wrath at being attacked: the bite
+of this reptile is most venomous when he is most enraged. I took up a flat
+stone, about six inches square, and lobbed it on his coil. He suddenly
+darted out towards me; but, as I had anticipated, he was encumbered with
+the stone. I now advanced, and struck him on the head with my stick. I
+repeated the blow until he seemed to be deprived of sensation, when I drew
+my hunting knife and decapitated him. For a full hour afterwards the body
+retained all the vigour and sensitiveness which it possessed previous to
+decapitation, and on touching any part of it, would twist round in the
+same manner as when the animal was perfect. Sensation gradually
+disappeared, departing <a name="Page_301"></a>first from the extremities&mdash;more towards the
+wounded extremity than towards the other, but gradually from both, until
+it was entirely gone. The length of this reptile was about four feet, and
+the skin was extremely beautiful. Nothing could exceed the beauty of his
+eye. A clear black lustre characterizes the eye of this animal, and is
+said to produce so powerful an effect on birds and smaller animals, as to
+deprive them of the power of escaping. This snake had eight rattles, so
+that he must have been at least eleven years old. I understood afterwards
+that there was a rattle-snakes' den in the neighbourhood. They appear to
+live in society, and the large quantities that are frequently found
+congregated together are astonishing. The Jacksonville (Illinois) Gazette
+of the 22d April, 1830, says, &quot;Last week, a den of rattle-snakes was
+discovered near Apple Creek, by a person while engaged in digging for rock
+in that part of our country. He made known the circumstance to the
+<a name="Page_302"></a>neighbours, who visited the place, where they killed 193 rattle-snakes,
+the largest of which (as our informant, who was on the spot, told us)
+measured nearly four feet in length. Besides these, there were sixteen
+black snakes destroyed, together with one copper-head. Counting the young
+ones, there were upwards of 1000 killed.&quot; There are two species of
+rattle-snake, which are in constant hostility with each other. The common
+black snake, whose bite is perfectly innoxious, and the copper-head, have
+also a deadly enmity towards the rattle-snake, which, when they meet it,
+they never fail to attack.</p>
+
+<p>The next ridge of mountains is called the &quot;laurel hills,&quot; which are
+covered with an immense growth of different species of laurel. Between
+these and the Alleghany ridge are situated &quot;the glades&quot;&mdash;beautiful fertile
+plains in a high state of cultivation. This district is most healthy, and
+fevers and agues are unknown to the inhabitants. Here the &quot;Dela<a name="Page_303"></a>wares of
+the hills&quot; once roamed the sole lords of this fine country; and perhaps
+from the very eminence from whence I contemplated the beauty of the scene,
+some warrior, returning from the &quot;war path&quot; or the chase, may have gazed
+with pleasure on the hills of his fathers, the possessions of a long line
+of Sylvan heros, and in the pride of manhood said&mdash;'The Delawares are
+men&mdash;they are strong in battle, and cunning on the trail of their foes&mdash;at
+the 'council fire' there is wisdom in their words. Who counts more scalps
+than the Lenni Lenap&eacute; warrior?&mdash;he can never be conquered&mdash;the stranger
+shall never dwell in his glades.' Where now is the &quot;Delaware of the
+hills?&quot;&mdash;gone!&mdash;his very name is unknown in his own land, and not a
+vestige remains to tell that <i>there</i> once dwelt a great and powerful
+tribe. When the white man falls, his high towers and lofty battlements are
+laid crumbling with the dust, yet these mighty ruins remain for ages,
+monuments of his former greatness: but the<a name="Page_304"></a> Indian passes away, silent as
+the noiseless tread of the moccasin&mdash;the next snow comes, and his &quot;trail&quot;
+is blotted out for ever.</p>
+
+<p>I toiled across the Alleghanies, which are completely covered with timber,
+and passed on to a place within about thirty miles of Chambersburg, on a
+branch of the Potomac. Here, coming in upon <i>civilization</i>, I took the
+stage to Baltimore. In my pedestrian excursion the road lay for several
+miles along the banks of the Juniata, which is a very fine river. The
+scenery is romantic, and is much beautified by a large growth of
+magnificent pines. The Alleghany ridge is composed chiefly of sand-stone,
+clay-slate, and lime-stone-slate, sand-stone sometimes in large blocks.</p>
+
+<p>I encountered several parties of French, Irish, Swiss, Bavarians, Dutch,
+&amp;c. going westward, with swarms of children, and considerable quantities
+of household lumber:&mdash;symptoms of seeking <i>El dorado</i>.</p>
+
+<p>In the neighbourhood of Baltimore there <a name="Page_305"></a>are many handsome residences, and
+the farms are all well cleared, and in many cases walled in. The number of
+comparatively miserable-looking cabins which are dispersed along the road
+near this town, and the long lists of crimes and misdemeanours with which
+the Journals of Baltimore and Philadelphia are filled, sufficiently
+indicate that these cities have arrived to an advanced state of
+civilization. For, wherever there are very rich people, there must be very
+poor people; and wherever there are very poor people, there must
+necessarily exist a proportionate quantity of crime. Men are poor, only
+because they are ignorant; for if they possessed a knowledge of their own
+powers and capabilities, they would then know, that however wealth may be
+distributed, all real wealth is created by labour, and by labour alone.</p>
+
+<p>Baltimore is seated on the north side of the Patapsco river, within a few
+miles of the Chesapeak bay. It received its name in compliment to the
+Irish family of the Cal<a name="Page_306"></a>verts. The harbour, at Fell Point, has about
+eighteen feet water, and is defended by a strong fort, called Mc Henry's
+fort, on Observation Hill. Vessels of large tonnage cannot enter the
+basin. In 1791 it contained 13,503 inhabitants; in 1810, 46,487; and at
+present it contains 80,519. There are many fine buildings and monuments in
+this city; and the streets in which business is not extensively
+transacted, are planted with Lombardy poplar, locust, and pride-of-china
+trees,&mdash;the last mentioned especially afford a fine shade.</p>
+
+<p>A considerable schooner trade is carried on by the merchants of Baltimore
+with South America. The schooners of this port are celebrated for their
+beauty, and are much superior to those of any other port on the Continent.
+They are sharp built, somewhat resembling the small Greek craft one sees
+in the Mediterranean. A rail-road is being constructed from this place to
+the Ohio river, a distance of upwards of three hundred miles, <a name="Page_307"></a>and about
+fourteen miles of the road is already completed, as is also a viaduct. If
+the enterprising inhabitants of Baltimore be able to finish this
+undertaking, it must necessarily throw a very large amount of wealth into
+their hands, to the prejudice of Philadelphia and New York. But the
+expense will be enormous.</p>
+
+<p>I left Baltimore for Philadelphia in one of those splendid and spacious
+steam-boats peculiar to this country. We paddled up the Chesapeak bay
+until we came to Elk river&mdash;the scenery at both sides is charming. A
+little distance up this river commences the &quot;Chesapeak and Delaware
+canal,&quot; which passes through the old state of Delaware, and unites the
+waters of the two bays. Here we were handed into a barge, or what we in
+common parlance would term a large canal boat; but the Americans are the
+fondest people in the universe of big names, and ransack the Dictionary
+for the most pompous appellations with which to designate their <a name="Page_308"></a>works or
+productions. The universal fondness for European titles that obtains here,
+is also remarkable. The president, is &quot;his excellency,&quot;&mdash;&quot;congressmen,&quot;
+are &quot;honorables,&quot;&mdash;and every petty merchant, or &quot;dry-goods store-keeper,&quot;
+is, at least, an esquire. Their newspapers contain many specimens of this
+love of monarchical distinctions&mdash;such as, &quot;wants a situation, as
+store-keeper (shopman), a gentleman, &amp;c.&quot; &quot;Two gentlemen were convicted
+and sentenced to six months' imprisonment for horse-stealing, &amp;c.&quot; These
+two items I read myself in the papers of the western country, and the
+latter was commented on by a Philadelphia journal. You may frequently see
+&quot;Miss Amanda,&quot; without shoes or stockings&mdash;certainly for convenience or
+economy, not from necessity, and generally in Dutch houses&mdash;and &quot;that
+<i>ere</i> young lady&quot; scouring the pails! An accident lately occurred in one
+of the factories in New England, and the local paper stated, that &quot;one
+young lady was seriously <a name="Page_309"></a>injured,&quot;&mdash;this young lady was a spinner.
+Observe, I by no means object to the indiscriminate use of the terms
+<i>gentleman</i> and <i>lady</i>, but merely state the fact. On the contrary, so far
+am I from finding fault with the practice, that I think it quite fair;
+when any portion of republicans make use of terms which properly belong to
+a monarchy, that all classes should do the same, it being unquestionably
+their right. It does not follow, because a man may be introduced as an
+<i>American gentleman</i>, that he may not be simply a mechanic.</p>
+
+<p>The Chesapeak and Delaware canal is about fourteen miles in length; and
+from the nature of the soil through which it is cut, there was some
+difficulty attending the permanent security of the work. On reaching the
+Delaware, we were again handed into a steamer, and so conducted to
+Philadelphia. The merchant shipping, and the numerous pleasure and
+steam-boats, and craft of every variety, which are constantly moving on
+the <a name="Page_310"></a>broad bosom of the Delaware, present a gay and animated scene.</p>
+
+<p>Philadelphia is a regular well-built city, and one of the handsomest in
+the states. It lies in latitude 39&deg; 56' north, and longitude, west of
+London, 75&deg; 8'; distant from the sea, 120 miles. The city stands on an
+elevated piece of ground between the Schuylkill and Delaware rivers, about
+a mile broad from bank to bank, and six miles from their junction. The
+Delaware is about a mile wide at Philadelphia, and ships of the largest
+tonnage can approach the wharf. The city contains many fine buildings of
+Schuylkill marble. The streets are well paved, and have broad <i>trottoirs</i>
+of hard red brick. The police regulations are excellent, and cleanliness
+is much attended to, the kennels being washed daily during the summer
+months, with water from the reservoirs. The markets, or shambles, extend
+half-a-mile in length, from the wharf up Market-street, in six divisions.
+In addition to the shambles, farmers' waggons, loaded <a name="Page_311"></a>with every kind of
+country produce for sale, line the street.</p>
+
+<p>There are five banking establishments in the city: the Bank of North
+America, the United States Bank, the Bank of Pennsylvania, the Bank of
+Philadelphia, and the Farmers' Bank.</p>
+
+<p>The principal institutions are, the Franklin library, which contains
+upwards of 20,000 volumes. Strangers are admitted gratis, and are
+permitted to peruse any of the books. The Americans should adopt this
+practice in all their national exhibitions, and rather copy the liberality
+of the French than the sordid churlishness of the English, who compel
+foreigners to pay even for seeing the property of the nation. The other
+institutions are, the University of Pennsylvania, a College, Medical
+Theatre, College of Physicians, Philosophical Hall, Agricultural and
+Linnean Societies, Academy of Fine Arts, and the Cincinnati Society, which
+originated in an attempt to establish a sort of aristocracy. The members
+were at its formation the surviving officers of <a name="Page_312"></a>the revolution; they wear
+an eagle, suspended by a ribbon, which, at their death, they have
+appointed to be taken by their eldest sons. There are besides, the
+Academies of the Philadelphian Friends, and the German Lutherans; Sunday
+and Lancasterian schools; and, of course, divers Bible and Tract
+Societies, which are patronized by all the antiquated dames in the city,
+and superintended by the Methodist and Presbyterian parsons. The Methodist
+parsons of this country have the character of being men of gallantry; and
+indeed, from the many instances I have heard of their propensity in this
+way, from young Americans, I should be a very sceptic to doubt the fact.</p>
+
+<p>There are also St. George's, St. Patrick's, St. David's, and St. Andrew's
+Societies for the relief and colonization of British emigrants; a French
+and a German Emigrant Society, and several hospitals. There are two
+theatres and an amphitheatre. Peal's Museum contains a large collection,
+which <a name="Page_313"></a>is scientifically arranged; among other fossils is the perfect
+skeleton of a mammoth, found in a bed of marle in the state of New York.
+The length of this animal, from the bend of the tusks to the rump, was
+about twenty-seven feet, and the height and bulk proportionate.</p>
+
+<p>The navy-yard contains large quantities of timber, spars, and rigging,
+prepared for immediate use, as also warlike stores of every description.
+There is here, a ship of 140 guns, of large calibre, and a frigate. Both
+are housed completely, and in a condition to be launched in a few months,
+if necessary. They are constructed of the very best materials, and in the
+most durable and solid manner. There are now being constructed, seriatim,
+twenty-five ships of the line&mdash;one for every state in the Union. The
+government occasionally sells the smaller vessels of war to merchants, in
+order to increase the shipping, and to secure that those armed vessels
+which are afloat, may be in the finest <a name="Page_314"></a>possible condition. A corvette,
+completely equipped, was lately sold to his majesty the autocrat of the
+Russias; but was dismasted in a day or two after her departure from
+Charleston. She was taken in tow by the vessel of a New York merchant, and
+carried into the port of that city. The merchant refused any compensation
+from the Russian minister, although his vessel was, when she fell in with
+the wreck, proceeding to the Austral regions, and her putting about was
+greatly disadvantageous. The minister returned thanks publicly, on the
+part of his master, and expressed his majesty's sense of the invariable
+consideration and friendship with which his majesty's subjects are treated
+by the citizens of America. There appears to be a universal wish among the
+Americans to cultivate an alliance, offensive and defensive, with his
+majesty of Russia. The cry is, &quot;all the Russians want is a fleet, and
+we'll lend them that.&quot; In fact, a deadly animosity pervades America
+towards Great<a name="Page_315"></a> Britain; and although it is not publicly confessed, for the
+Americans are too able politicians to do that, yet it is no less certain,
+that &quot;<i>Delenda est Carthago</i>,&quot; is their motto. Let England look to it. Her
+power is great; but, if the fleets of America, France, and Russia, were to
+combine, and land on the shores of England hordes of Russians, and
+battalions of disciplined Frenchmen&mdash;if this were to be done, with the
+Irish people, instead of allies as they should be, her deadly enemies, her
+power is annihilated at a blow! For let it be remembered, that there is no
+rallying principle in the temperament of the mass of the English people;
+and that formerly one single victory,&mdash;the victory of Hastings, completely
+subjugated them. Hume, who was decidedly an impartial historian, is
+compelled to say of that conquest, &quot;It would be difficult to find in all
+history a revolution more destructive, or attended with a more complete
+subjection of the ancient inhabitants. Contumely seems <a name="Page_316"></a>even to have been
+wantonly added to oppression; and the natives were universally reduced to
+such a state of meanness and poverty, that the English name became a term
+of reproach; and several generations elapsed before one family of Saxon
+pedigree was raised to any considerable honours, or could so much as
+obtain the rank of baron of the realm.&quot;&mdash;Yet the English people owe much
+to the ancestors of the aristocracy, who introduced among them the arts
+and refinements of civilization, and by their wisdom and disciplined
+valour have raised the country to that pitch of greatness, so justly
+termed &quot;the envy of surrounding nations.&quot; I do not contend, that because a
+nation may have acquired the name of great, that therefore <i>the people</i>
+are more happy; but am rather inclined to think the contrary, for
+conquests are generally made and wealth is accumulated for the benefit of
+the few, and at the expense of the many.</p>
+
+<p>A law has been lately passed by the legis<a name="Page_317"></a>lature of Pennsylvania, taxing
+wholesale and retail dealers in merchandize, excepting those importers of
+foreign goods who vend the articles in the form in which they are
+imported. This act classes the citizens according to their annual amount
+of sales, and taxes them in the same proportion. Those who effect sales to
+the amount of fifty thousand dollars, constitute the first class; of forty
+thousand dollars, the second class; of thirty thousand dollars, the third
+class; of twenty thousand dollars, the fourth class; of fifteen thousand
+dollars, the fifth class; of ten thousand dollars, the sixth class; of
+five thousand dollars, the seventh class; and all persons effecting sales
+not exceeding two thousand five hundred dollars, constitute the eighth
+class. The first class shall pay for license, annually, fifty dollars; the
+second class, forty dollars; the third class, thirty dollars; the fourth
+class, twenty-five dollars; the fifth class, twenty dollars; the sixth
+class, fifteen dollars; the seventh class, twelve dollars and fifty cents,
+and the eighth class ten dollars.</p><a name="Page_318"></a>
+
+<p>Direct taxation has been found in all cases to be obnoxious, and this
+particular mode, I apprehend, is calculated to produce very pernicious
+effects. The laws of a republic should all tend to establish and support,
+as far as is practicable, the principle of equality, and any act that has
+a contrary tendency must be injurious to the community. Now this act draws
+a direct line of demarcation between citizens, in proportion to the extent
+of their dealings; and as in this country a man's importance is entirely
+estimated by his supposed wealth, the citizens of Pennsylvania can
+henceforth only claim a share of respectability, proportionate to the
+<i>class</i> to which they belong. The west country ladies have shewn a great
+aptitude for forming &quot;circles of society,&quot; and the promulgation of this
+law affords them a most powerful aid in establishing a <i>store-keeping
+aristocracy</i>.</p>
+
+<p>The large cities in America are by no means so lightly taxed as might be
+supposed from the cheapness of the government; the <a name="Page_319"></a>public works, public
+buildings, and police establishments, requiring adequate funds for their
+maintenance and support; however, the inhabitants have the consolation of
+knowing that this must gradually decrease, and that their money is laid
+out for their own advantage, and not for the purpose of pensioning off the
+mistresses and physicians of viceroys, as in Ireland.<a name="FNanchor_23_23"></a><a href="#Footnote_23_23"><sup>[23]</sup></a> Another thing is
+to be observed, that in addition to the <i>national</i> debt, each state has a
+<i>private</i> debt, which in many cases is tolerably large. These debts have
+been created by expenditures on roads, canals, and public buildings. The
+mode of taxation latterly adopted by the legislature is not popular, and
+many of the public prints have remonstrated against the system. &quot;The
+Philadelphia Gazette,&quot; of the 24th Sept. 1830, makes the following
+remarks&mdash;&quot;The subject of unequal and oppressive <a name="Page_320"></a>taxation deserves more
+attention than it has hitherto received from our citizens. The misery of
+England is occasioned less by the amount of revenue that is raised there,
+than by the manner in which it is raised. In Pennsylvania we are going on
+rapidly, making our state a second England in regard of debt and taxation.
+Our public debt is already 13,000,000 dollars; and before our canals and
+rail-roads shall be completed, it will probably amount to 18 or 20
+millions. The law imposing taxes of 10, 20, 30, 40 and 50 dollars on
+retailers, is not the only just subject of complaint. The <i>collateral
+inheritance</i> tax is equally unjust. The tavern-keepers are besides to be
+taxed from 20 to 50 dollars each. Nor does the matter end here. At the
+next session of the legislature, it will, in all probability, be found
+necessary to lay on additional taxes: and when the principle of unjust
+taxation is once admitted in legislation, it is difficult to say how far
+it will be carried.&quot;</p>
+<a name="Page_321"></a>
+<p>Whilst staying at Philadelphia an account of the French revolution
+arrived, and the merchants, there and at New York, were in high spirits,
+thinking that war was inevitable. A war in Europe is always hailed with
+delight in America, as it opens a field for commercial enterprise, and
+gives employment to the shipping, of which at present they are much in
+need.</p>
+
+<p>During the long and ruinous war in Europe, the mercantile and shipping
+interests of the United States advanced with an unexampled degree of
+rapidity. The Americans were then the carriers of nearly all Europe, and
+scarcely any merchandize entered the ports of the belligerent powers, but
+in American bottoms. This unnatural state of prosperity could not last:
+peace was established, and from that era the decline of commerce in the
+United States may be dated. The merchants seem not to have calculated on
+this event's so soon taking place, or to have overrated the increase of
+prosperity and popula<a name="Page_322"></a>tion in their own country, as up to that period, and
+for some years afterwards, there does appear to have been no relaxation of
+ship-building, and little diminution of mercantile speculations. At
+present the ship-owners are realizing little beyond the expenses of their
+vessels, and in many cases the bottoms are actually in debt. The frequent
+failures in the Atlantic cities, of late, are mainly to be attributed to
+unsuccessful ship speculations; and I am myself aware of more than one
+instance, where the freight was so extremely low, as to do little more
+than cover the expenditure of the voyage. On my return to Europe, while
+staying at Marseilles, twelve American vessels arrived in that port within
+the space of two months; and before my departure, nine of these returned
+to the United States with ballast (stones), and I believe only two with
+full cargos.</p>
+
+<p>In a national point of view, the difficulty of obtaining employment for
+the shipping of America may not have been so injurious as at <a name="Page_323"></a>first view
+it appears to be; on the contrary, I am of opinion that it has been
+advantageous. Whilst a profitable trade could with facility be carried on
+with and in Europe, the merchants seldom thought of extending their
+enterprises to any other parts of the world; but since the decline of that
+trade, communications have been opened with the East Indies, Africa, all
+the ports of the Mediterranean, and voyages to the Pacific, and to the
+Austral regions, are now of common occurrence. The museums in the Atlantic
+cities bear ample testimony to the enterprising character of the American
+merchants, which by their means are filled with all the curious and
+interesting productions of the East. This has encouraged a taste for
+scientific studies, and for travelling; which must ultimately tend to
+raise the nation to a degree of respectability little inferior to the
+oldest European state.</p><a name="Page_324"></a>
+
+<p>FOOTNOTES:</p>
+
+<a name="Footnote_23_23"></a><a href="#FNanchor_23_23">[23]</a><div class="note"><p> An Irish viceroy lately paid his physician by conferring on
+him a baronetcy, and a pension of two hundred pounds a year, of the public
+money.</p></div>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;">
+<a name="CHAPTER_XI"></a><h2><a name="Page_325"></a>CHAPTER XI</h2>
+<br>
+
+<p>Having sojourned for more than three weeks at Philadelphia, I departed for
+New York. The impressions made on my mind during that time were highly
+favourable to the Philadelphians and their city. It is the handsomest city
+in the Union; and the inhabitants, in sociability and politeness, have
+much the advantage of any other body of people with whom I came in
+contact.</p>
+
+<p>The steamer takes you up the Delaware river to Bordentown, in New Jersey,
+twenty-four miles from Philadelphia. The country at either side is in a
+high state of cultivation. It is interspersed with handsome country seats,
+and on the whole pre<a name="Page_326"></a>sents a most charming prospect. There is scarcely a
+single point passed up the windings of the Delaware, but presents a new
+and pleasing variety of landscape&mdash;luxuriant foliage&mdash;gently swelling
+hills, and fertile lawns; which last having been lately mown, were covered
+with a rich green sward most pleasing to the eye. The banks of the river
+at Bordentown are high, and the town, as seen from the water, has a pretty
+effect. Here a stage took us across New Jersey to Amboy. This is not a
+large town, nor can it ever be of much importance, being situated too near
+the cities of New York and Philadelphia. At Amboy we again took the
+steam-boat up the bay, and after a delightful sail of thirty miles,
+through scenery the most beautiful and magnificent, we arrived at New
+York.</p>
+
+<p>When I was at New York about fifteen months before, I was informed that
+the working classes were being organized into regular bodies, similar to
+the &quot;union of trades&quot; in England, for the purpose of retaining all
+poli<a name="Page_327"></a>tical power in their own hands. This organization has taken place at
+the suggestion of Frances Wright, of whom I shall again have occasion to
+speak presently, and has succeeded to an astonishing extent. There are
+three or four different bodies of the &quot;workies,&quot; as they call themselves
+familiarly, which vary somewhat from each other in their principles, and
+go different lengths in their attacks on the present institutions of
+society. There are those of them called &quot;agrarians,&quot; who contend that
+there should be a law passed to prohibit individuals holding beyond a
+certain quantity of ground; and that at given intervals of time there
+should be an equal division of property throughout the land. This is the
+most ultra, and least numerous class; the absurdity of whose doctrines
+must ultimately destroy them as a body. Various handbills and placards may
+be seen posted about the city, calling meetings of these unions. Some of
+those handbills are of a most extraordinary character <a name="Page_328"></a>indeed. I shall
+here insert a copy of one, which I took off a wall, and have now in my
+possession. It may serve to illustrate the character of those clubs.</p>
+
+<pre>
+THE CAUSE OF THE POOR.
+
+The Mechanics and other working men of the city of New York, and
+of <i>these</i> such and such only as live by their own useful
+industry, who wish to retain all political power in their own
+hands;
+
+WHO ARE IN FAVOUR OF                 AND WHO ARE OPPOSED TO
+
+A just compensation for labour,      Banks and Bankers,
+
+Abolishing imprisonment for debt,    Auctions and Auctioneers,
+
+An efficient lien law,               Monopolies and
+
+A general system of education;       Monopolists of all descriptions,
+  including food, clothing
+  and instruction, equal for all,    Brokers,
+  at the public expense, <i>without
+  separation of children from</i>        Lawyers, and
+  <i>parents,</i>
+                                     Rich men for office, and to all
+Exemption from sale by execution,      those, either rich or poor,
+  of mechanics' tools and              who favour them,
+  implements sufficiently
+  extensive to enable them to        Exemption of Property from
+  carry on business:                   Taxation:
+
+
+Are invited to assemble at the Wooster-street Military Hall, on
+Thursday evening next, 16th Sept., at eight o'clock, to select by
+Ballot, from among the persons proposed on the 6th Instant,
+Candidates for Governor, Lieutenant-Governor, Senator, and a New
+Committee of Fifty, and to propose Candidates for Register, for
+Members of Congress, and for Assembly.
+
+By order of the Committee of Fifty.
+
+JOHN R. SOPER, <i>Chairman</i>. JOHN TUTHILL, <i>Secretary</i>.</pre>
+
+<p>So far for the &quot;Workies;&quot; and now for Miss Wright. If I understand this
+lady's principles correctly, they are strictly Epicurean. She contends,
+that mankind have nothing whatever to do with any but this tangible
+world;&mdash;that the sole and only legitimate pursuit of man, is terrestrial
+happiness;&mdash;that looking forward to an ideal state of existence, diverts
+his attention from the pleasures of this life&mdash;destroys all real sympathy
+towards his fellow-creatures, and renders him callous to their sufferings.
+However different the <i>theories</i> of other systems may be, she contends
+that the <i>practice</i> of the world, in all ages and generations, shews that
+this is the <i>effect</i> of their inculcation.<a name="Page_330"></a> These are alarming doctrines;
+and when this lady made her <i>deb&ucirc;t</i> in public, the journals contended that
+their absurdity was too gross to be of any injury to society, and that in
+a few months, if she continued lecturing, it would be to empty benches.</p>
+
+<p>The editor of &quot;The New York Courier and Enquirer&quot; and she have been in
+constant enmity, and have never failed denouncing each other when
+opportunity offered. Miss Wright sailed from New York for France, where
+she still remains, in the month of July, 1830; and previous to her
+departure delivered an address, on which &quot;the New York Enquirer&quot; makes the
+following observations:&mdash;</p>
+
+<p>&quot;The parting address of Miss Wright at the Bowery Theatre, on Wednesday
+evening, was a singular <i>melange</i> of politics and impiety&mdash;eloquence and
+irreligion&mdash;bold invective, and electioneering slang. The theatre was very
+much crowded, probably three thousand persons being present; and what was
+the most <a name="Page_331"></a>surprising circumstance of the whole, is the fact, that about
+<i>one half of the audience were females&mdash;respectable females</i>.</p>
+
+<p>&quot;When Fanny first made her appearance in this city as a lecturer on the
+'new order of things,' she was very little visited by respectable females.
+At her first lecture in the Park Theatre, about half a dozen appeared; but
+these soon left the house. From that period till the present, we had not
+heard her speak in public; but her doctrines, and opinions, and
+philosophy, appear to have made much greater progress in the city than we
+ever dreamt of. Her fervid eloquence&mdash;her fine action&mdash;her <i>soprano-toned</i>
+voice&mdash;her bold and daring attacks upon all the present systems of
+society&mdash;and particularly upon priests, politicians, bankers, and
+aristocrats as she calls them, have raised a party around her of
+considerable magnitude, and of much fervour and enthusiasm.&quot;</p>
+
+<hr style="width: 45%;">
+
+<p>&quot;The present state of things in this city <a name="Page_332"></a>is, to say the least of it,
+very singular. A bold and eloquent woman lays siege to the very
+foundations of society&mdash;inflames and excites the public mind&mdash;declaims
+with vehemence against every thing religious and orderly, and directs the
+whole of her movements to accomplish the election of a ticket next fall,
+under the title of the 'working-man's ticket.'<a name="FNanchor_24_24"></a><a href="#Footnote_24_24"><sup>[24]</sup></a> She avows that her
+object is a thorough and radical reform and change in every relation of
+life&mdash;even the dearest and most sacred. Father, mother, husband, wife,
+son, and daughter, in all their delicate and endearing relationships, are
+to be swept away equally with clergymen, churches, banks, parties, and
+benevolent societies. Hundreds and hundreds of respectable families, by
+frequenting her lectures, give countenance and currency to these startling
+principles and doctrines. Nearly the whole newspaper press <a name="Page_333"></a>of the city
+maintain a death-like silence, while the great Red Harlot of Infidelity is
+madly and triumphantly stalking over the city, under the mantle of
+'working-men,' and making <i>rapid progress</i> in her work of ruin. If a
+solitary newspaper raise a word in favour of public virtue and private
+morals, in defence of the rights, liberties, and property of the
+community, it is denounced with open bitterness by some, and secretly
+stabbed at by them who wish to pass for good citizens. Miss Wright says
+she leaves the city soon. This is a mere <i>ruse</i> to call her followers
+around her. The effect of her lectures is already boasted of by her
+followers. 'Two years ago,' say they,&mdash;'<i>twenty persons</i> could scarcely be
+found in New York who would openly avow infidelity&mdash;now we have <i>twenty
+thousand</i>.&mdash;Is not that something?'</p>
+
+<p>&quot;We say it is something&mdash;something that will make the whole city think.&quot;</p>
+
+<p>On the day of my departure for Europe, is was announced to the merchants
+of New<a name="Page_334"></a> York, that the West India ports were opened to American vessels.</p>
+
+<p>This is a heavy blow to the interests of the British colonies; and it does
+not appear that even Great Britain <i>herself</i> has received any equivalent
+for inflicting so serious an injury on a portion of the empire by no means
+unimportant. The Canadians and Nova Scotians found a market for their
+surplus produce in the West Indies, for which they took in return the
+productions of these islands&mdash;thus a reciprocal advantage was derived to
+the sister colonies. But now, from the proximity of the West Indies to the
+Atlantic cities of the United States, American produce will be poured into
+these markets, for which, in return, little else than specie will be
+brought back to the ports of the Republic.</p>
+
+<p>It may be said, that an equivalent has been obtained by the removal of
+restrictions hitherto laid on British shipping. This I deny is any thing
+like an equivalent, as the trade with America is carried on almost
+exclusively <a name="Page_335"></a>in American bottoms. I particularly noted at New Orleans,
+Baltimore, Philadelphia, and New York, the paucity of British vessels in
+those ports; and ascertained that it was the practice among American
+merchants, who it must be observed are nearly all extensive ship-owners,
+to withhold cargos, even at some inconvenience, from foreign vessels, and
+await the arrival of those of their own country. I do not positively
+assert that the ships of <i>any other</i> nation are preferred to those of
+England; but, as far as my personal observations on that point have gone,
+I am strongly inclined to think that such is the fact.</p>
+
+<p>The mercantile and shipping interests of Great Britain must continue to
+decline, if the government suffers itself continually to be cajoled into
+measures of this nature, and effects treaties the advantages of which
+appear to be all on one side, and in lieu of its concessions receives no
+just equivalent; unless a little empty praise for &quot;liberal policy&quot; and
+&quot;generosity,&quot; can be so termed. I am well <a name="Page_336"></a>aware that it may have been of
+some small advantage to the West Indies to be enabled to obtain their
+supplies from the United States; but with reference to the policy of the
+measure, I speak only of the empire at large. Nearly all the Canadians
+with whom I conversed, freely acknowledged that they have not shaken off
+the yoke of England, only because they enjoyed some advantages by their
+connexion with her: but as these are diminished, the ties become loosened,
+and at length will be found too weak to hold them any longer. Disputes
+have already arisen between the people and the government relative to
+church lands, which appropriations they contend are unjust and dishonest.</p>
+
+<p>No doubt the question of tariff duties on the raw material imported into
+England, is one of great delicacy as connected with the manufacturing
+interests of the country; yet it does appear to me, that a small duty
+might without injury be imposed on American cottons <i>imported in American
+bottoms</i>. This <a name="Page_337"></a>would afford considerable encouragement to the shipping of
+Great Britain and her colonies, and could by no means be injurious to the
+manufacturing interests. The cottons of the Levant have been latterly
+increasing in quantity, and a measure of this nature would be likely to
+promote their further and rapid increase; which is desirable, as it would
+leave us less dependent on America, than we now are, for the raw material.
+The shipping of America is not held by the cotton-growing states; and
+although the nationality of the southerns is no doubt great, yet their
+love of self-interest is much greater, and would always preponderate in
+their choice of vessels. It would be even better, if found necessary, to
+make some arrangement in the shape of draw-back, than that a nation which
+has imposed a duty on our manufactured goods, almost amounting to a
+prohibition, should reap so much advantage from our system of &quot;liberal and
+generous&quot; policy. I shall conclude these <i>rambling</i> sketches <a name="Page_338"></a>by
+observing, that there are two things eminently remarkable in America: the
+one is, that every American from the highest to the lowest, thinks the
+Republican form of government <i>the best;</i> and the other, that the
+seditious and rebellious of all countries become there the most peaceable
+and contented citizens.</p>
+
+<p>We sailed from New York on the 1st of October, 1830. The monotony of a sea
+voyage, with unscientific people, is tiresome beyond description. The
+journal of a single day is the history of a month. You rise in the
+morning, and having performed the necessary ablutions, mount on
+deck,&mdash;&quot;Well Captain, how does she head?&quot;&mdash;&quot;South-east by east&quot;&mdash;(our
+course is east by south).&mdash;&quot;Bad, bad, Captain&mdash;two points off.&quot; You then
+promenade the quarter-deck, until the black steward arrests your
+progress&mdash;grins in your face, and announces breakfast. Down you go, and
+fall foul of ham, beef, <i>pommes de terre frites</i>, jonny-cakes, and <i>caf&eacute;
+sans lait;</i> and generally, in despite of bad cooking <a name="Page_339"></a>and occasional
+lee-lurches, contrive to eat an enormous meal. Breakfast being despatched,
+you again go on deck&mdash;promenade&mdash;gaze on the clouds&mdash;then read a little,
+if perchance you have books with you&mdash;lean over the gunwale, watching the
+waves and the motion of the vessel; but the eternal water, clouds, and
+sky&mdash;sky, clouds, and water, produce a listlessness that nothing can
+overcome. In the Atlantic, a ship in sight is an object which arouses the
+attention of all on board&mdash;to speak one is an &aelig;ra, and furnishes to the
+captain and mates a subject for the day's conversation. Thus situated, an
+occasional spell of squally weather is by no means uninteresting:&mdash;the
+lowering aspect of the sky&mdash;the foaming surges, which come rolling on,
+threatening to overwhelm the tall ship, and bury her in the fathomless
+abyss of the ocean&mdash;the laugh of the gallant tars, when a sea sweeps the
+deck and drenches them to the skin&mdash;all these incidents, united, rather
+amuse the voyager, <a name="Page_340"></a>and tend to dispel the inanity with which he is
+afflicted. During these periods, I have been for hours watching the
+motions of the &quot;stormy petrel&quot; (<i>procellaria pelagica</i>), called by
+sailors, &quot;mother Carey's chickens.&quot; These birds are seldom seen in calm
+weather, but appear to follow the gale, and when it blows most heavily
+they are seen in greatest numbers. The colour is brown and white; the size
+about that of the swallow, whose motions oh the wing they resemble. They
+skim over the surface of the roughest sea, gliding up and down the
+undulations with astonishing swiftness. When they observe their prey, they
+descend flutteringly, and place the feet and the tips of the wings on the
+surface of the water. In this position I have seen many of them rest for
+five or six seconds, until they had completed the capture. The petrel is
+to be seen in all parts of the Atlantic, no matter how distant from land;
+and the oldest seaman with whom I have conversed on the subject, never saw
+<a name="Page_341"></a>one of them rest. Humboldt says, that in the Northern Deserta, the
+petrels hide in rabbit burrows.</p>
+
+<p>A few days' sail brought us into the &quot;Gulf stream,&quot; the influence of which
+is felt as high as the 43&deg; north latitude. We saw a considerable quantity
+of <i>fucus natans</i>, or gulf weed, but it generally was so far from the
+vessel, that I could not contrive to procure a sprig. Mr. Luccock, in his
+Notes on Brazil, says, that &quot;if a nodule of this weed, taken fresh from
+the water at night, is hung up in a small cabin, it emits phosphorescent
+light enough to render objects visible.&quot; He describes the leaves of this
+plant as springing from the joints of the branches, oblong, indented at
+the edges, about an inch and a half long, and a quarter of an inch broad.
+Humboldt's description is somewhat different: he calls it the &quot;vine-leaved
+fucus;&quot; says, &quot;the leaves are circular, of a <i>tender</i> green, and indented
+at the edges, stem brown, and three inches long.&quot;&mdash;What I saw of this
+<a name="Page_342"></a>weed rather agrees with that described by Humboldt&mdash;the leaves were
+shaped like the vine leaf, and of a rusty-green colour. That portion of
+the Atlantic between the 22d and 34th parallels of latitude, and 26th and
+58th meridians of longitude, is generally covered with fuci, and is termed
+by the Portuguese, <i>mar do sargasso</i>, or grassy sea. It was supposed by
+many, from the large quantities of this weed seen in the Gulf stream, that
+it grew on the Florida rocks, and by the influence and extension of the
+current, was detached and carried into this part of the Atlantic. However,
+this position is not tenable, as a single branch of fucus has never been
+found on the Florida reef. Humboldt, and other scientific men, are of
+opinion that this weed vegetates at the bottom of the ocean&mdash;that being
+detached from its root, it rises to the surface; and that such portion of
+it as is found in the stream, is drawn thither by the sweeping of the
+current along the edge of the weedy sea. Moreover, the fuci that are
+<a name="Page_343"></a>found in the northern extremity of the Florida stream are generally
+decayed, while those which are seen in the southern extremity appear quite
+fresh&mdash;this difference would not exist if they emanated from the Gulf.</p>
+
+<p>We stood to the north of the Azores, with rather unfavourable winds, and
+at length came between the coast of Africa and Cape St. Vincent. Here we
+had a dead calm for four entire days. The sky was perfectly cloudless, and
+the surface of the ocean was like oil. Not being able to do better, we got
+out the boat and went turtle fishing, or rather catching, in company with
+a very fine shark, which thought proper to attend us during our excursion.
+In such weather the turtles come to the surface of the water to sleep and
+enjoy the solar heat, and if you can approach without waking them, they
+fall an easy prey, being rendered incapable of resistance by their shelly
+armour. We took six. Attached to the breast of one was a remora, or
+&quot;sucking fish.&quot; The length of this animal is from <a name="Page_344"></a>six to eight
+inches&mdash;colour blackish&mdash;body, scaleless and oily&mdash;head rather flat, on
+the back of which is the sucker, which consists of a narrow oval-shaped
+margin with several transverse projections, and ten curved rays extending
+towards the centre, but not meeting. The Indians of Jamaica and Cuba
+employed this fish as falconers do hawks. In calm weather, they carried
+out those which they had kept and fed for the purpose, in their canoes,
+and when they had got to a sufficient distance, attached the remora to the
+head of the canoe by a strong line of considerable length. When the remora
+perceives a fish, which he can do at a considerable distance, he darts
+away with astonishing rapidity, and fastens upon it. The Indian lets go
+the line, to which a buoy is attached to mark the course the remora has
+taken, and follows in his canoe until he thinks the game is exhausted; he
+then draws it gradually in, the remora still adhering to his prey. Oviedo
+says, &quot;I have known a <a name="Page_345"></a>turtle caught by this method, of a bulk and weight
+which no single man could support.&quot;</p>
+
+<p>For four days we were anxiously watching for some indications of a breeze,
+but were so frequently deceived with &quot;cat's paws,&quot; and the occasional
+slight flickering of the dog vane, that we sank into listless resignation.
+At length our canvass filled, and we soon came within sight of the Straits
+of Gibraltar. On our left was the coast of Spain, with its vineyards and
+white villages; and on our right lay the sterile hills of Barbary.
+Opposite Cape Trafalgar is Cape Spartel, a bold promontory, on the west
+side of which is a range of basaltic pillars. The entrance to the
+Mediterranean by the Straits, when the wind is unfavourable, is extremely
+difficult; but to pass out is almost impossible, the current continually
+setting in through the centre of the passage. Hence, onwards, the sail was
+extremely pleasant, being within sight of the Spanish coast, and the
+Islands of Yvica, Majorca, and Minorca, successively, until we <a name="Page_346"></a>reached
+the Gulf of Lyons. When the northerly wind blows, which, in Provence, is
+termed the <i>mistral</i>, the waves roll against the coast of Provence, and
+the recoil produces that ugly chopping sea for which this gulf is
+renowned. In the Mediterranean, even in the calmest weather, a light
+pleasant breeze springs up after sunset; this and the cloudless sky, and
+unobscured brilliancy of the stars, are attractions sufficient to allure
+the most somnolent and unromantic mortal to remain on deck.</p>
+
+<p>The molusca, or oceanic insect, which emits a phosphorescent light,
+appeared here in vast quantities, which induced me to try experiments. I
+took a piece of black crape, and having folded it several times, poured
+some sea water taken fresh in a bucket, upon it: the water in the bucket,
+when agitated by the hand, gave out sparkling light. When the crape was
+thoroughly saturated with water, I took it to a dark part of the cabin,
+when it seemed to be studded with small <a name="Page_347"></a>sparkling stars; but more of the
+animals I could not then discern. Next day I put some water in a glass
+tumbler, and having exposed it to a strong solar light, with the help of a
+magnifying glass was enabled distinctly to discern the molusc&aelig;. When
+magnified, they appeared about the size of a pin's head, of a yellowish
+brown colour, rather oval-shaped, and having tentacul&aelig;. The medusa is a
+genus of molusca; and I think M. le Seur told me he reckons forty-three or
+forty-four species of that genus.</p>
+
+<p>We crossed the Gulf of Lyons, and came within the road of Marseilles,
+where we were taken charge of by a pilot. When we reached the mouth of the
+basin, a boat came alongside of us, and a man handed up a piece of wood,
+and said, &quot;Mettez sur cela le nom du capitaine et du batiment;&quot;&mdash;we were
+to perform quarantine. Whoever has performed quarantine can commiserate
+our condition. No one can quit the quarantine ground, or rather the space
+in the harbour alloted to vessels <a name="Page_348"></a>performing quarantine. If it be
+necessary to send any papers from the ship on shore, they are taken with a
+forceps and plunged into vinegar. If the sails of any other vessel touch
+those of one in quarantine, she too must undergo several days' probation.
+Our time was five days; but as we had clean bills of health, and had lost
+none of our crew on the passage, we were allowed to count the day of our
+entering and the day of our going out of quarantine. The usual ceremonies
+being performed, I again stepped on European ground, and felt myself at
+home.</p>
+
+<p>FOOTNOTES:</p>
+
+<a name="Footnote_24_24"></a><a href="#FNanchor_24_24">[24]</a><div class="note"><p> The &quot;Education ticket,&quot; that of the &quot;workies,&quot; carried every
+thing before it in New York and the adjoining states, at the election of
+members of congress, &amp;c.</p></div>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;">
+<a name="APPENDIX"></a><h2><a name="Page_349"></a>APPENDIX</h2>
+
+<br><a name="Page_350"></a>
+
+<p><a name="Page_351"></a>NEW CENSUS OF THE UNITED STATES.</p>
+
+<p>An abstract of a &quot;careful revision of the enumeration of the United States
+for the years 1790, 1800, 1810, 1820, and 1830,&quot; compiled at the
+Department of State, agreeably to law; and an ABSTRACT from the Aggregate
+Returns of the several Marshals of the United States of the &quot;Fifth
+Census.&quot;</p>
+
+
+<table align="center" border="1" cellpadding="2" cellspacing="0" summary="Census Figures">
+<tr><td align="left">STATES.</td><td align="center">1790.</td><td align="center">1800.</td><td align="center">1810.</td><td align="center">1820.</td><td align="center">1830.</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">Maine</td><td align="right">96,540</td><td align="right">151,719</td><td align="right">228,705</td><td align="right">298,335</td><td align="right">399,463</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">New Hampshire</td><td align="right">141,899</td><td align="right">183,762</td><td align="right">214,360</td><td align="right">244,161</td><td align="right">269,533</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">Massachusetts</td><td align="right">378,717</td><td align="right">423,243</td><td align="right">472,040</td><td align="right">523,287</td><td align="right">610,014</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">Rhode Island</td><td align="right">69,110</td><td align="right">69,122</td><td align="right">77,031</td><td align="right">83,059</td><td align="right">97,210</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">Connecticut</td><td align="right">258,141</td><td align="right">231,002</td><td align="right">262,042</td><td align="right">275,202</td><td align="right">297,011</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">Vermont</td><td align="right">85,416</td><td align="right">154,465</td><td align="right">217,713</td><td align="right">233,764</td><td align="right">280,679</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">New York</td><td align="right">340,120</td><td align="right">586,756</td><td align="right">959,049</td><td align="right">1,372,812</td><td align="right">1,913,508</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">New Jersey</td><td align="right">184,139</td><td align="right">211,949</td><td align="right">245,555</td><td align="right">277,575</td><td align="right">320,778</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">Pennsylvania</td><td align="right">434,373</td><td align="right">602,365</td><td align="right">810,091</td><td align="right">1,049,458</td><td align="right">1,347,672</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">Delaware</td><td align="right">59,096</td><td align="right">64,273</td><td align="right">72,674</td><td align="right">72,749</td><td align="right">76,739</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">Maryland</td><td align="right">319,728</td><td align="right">341,548</td><td align="right">380,546</td><td align="right">407,350</td><td align="right">446,913</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">D. Columbia</td><td align="right">&mdash;</td><td align="right">14,093</td><td align="right">24,023</td><td align="right">33,039</td><td align="right">39,588</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">Virginia</td><td align="right">748,308</td><td align="right">880,200</td><td align="right">974,622</td><td align="right">1,065,379</td><td align="right">1,211,266</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">N. Carolina</td><td align="right">393,751</td><td align="right">478,103</td><td align="right">555,500</td><td align="right">638,829</td><td align="right">738,470</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">S. Carolina</td><td align="right">249,073</td><td align="right">345,591</td><td align="right">415,115</td><td align="right">502,741</td><td align="right">581,458</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">Georgia</td><td align="right">82,548</td><td align="right">162,101</td><td align="right">252,433</td><td align="right">340,987</td><td align="right">516,504</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">Kentucky</td><td align="right">73,077</td><td align="right">220,955</td><td align="right">406,511</td><td align="right">564,317</td><td align="right">688,844</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">Tennessee</td><td align="right">35,791</td><td align="right">105,602</td><td align="right">231,727</td><td align="right">422,813</td><td align="right">684,822</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">Ohio</td><td align="right">&mdash;</td><td align="right">45,365</td><td align="right">230,760</td><td align="right">581,434</td><td align="right">937,679</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">Indiana</td><td align="right">&mdash;</td><td align="right">4,875</td><td align="right">24,520</td><td align="right">147,178</td><td align="right">341,582</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">Mississippi</td><td align="right">&mdash;</td><td align="right">8,850</td><td align="right">40,352</td><td align="right">75,448</td><td align="right">136,806</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">Illinois</td><td align="right">&mdash;</td><td align="right">&mdash;</td><td align="right">12,233</td><td align="right">55,211</td><td align="right">157,575</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">Louisiana</td><td align="right">&mdash;</td><td align="right">&mdash;</td><td align="right">76,556</td><td align="right">153,407</td><td align="right">215,791</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">Missouri</td><td align="right">&mdash;</td><td align="right">&mdash;</td><td align="right">20,845</td><td align="right">66,586</td><td align="right">140,084</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">Alabama</td><td align="right">&mdash;</td><td align="right">&mdash;</td><td align="right">&mdash;</td><td align="right">127,902</td><td align="right">309,206</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">Michigan</td><td align="right">&mdash;</td><td align="right">&mdash;</td><td align="right">4,762</td><td align="right">8,896</td><td align="right">31,123</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">Arkansas</td><td align="right">&mdash;</td><td align="right">&mdash;</td><td align="right">&mdash;</td><td align="right">14,273</td><td align="right">30,383</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">Florida</td><td align="right">&mdash;</td><td align="right">&mdash;</td><td align="right">&mdash;</td><td align="right">&mdash;</td><td align="right">34,725</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left"></td><td align="right">3,929,827</td><td align="right">5,305,925</td><td align="right">7,289,314</td><td align="right">9,638,131</td><td align="right">12,856,437</td></tr></table>
+
+<br>
+
+<h5>INCREASE FROM 1820 TO 1830.</h5>
+
+
+<table align="center" border="1" cellpadding="2" cellspacing="0" summary="">
+<tr><td align="left"></td><td align="left">Per Cent.</td><td align="left"></td><td align="left">Per Cent.</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">Maine</td><td align="right">33,398</td><td align="left">S. Carolina</td><td align="right">15,657</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">N. Hampshire</td><td align="right">10,391</td><td align="left">Georgia</td><td align="right">51,472</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">Massachusetts</td><td align="right">16,575</td><td align="left">Kentucky</td><td align="right">22,066</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">Rhode Island</td><td align="right">17,157</td><td align="left">Tennessee</td><td align="right">62,044</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">Connecticut</td><td align="right">8,151</td><td align="left">Ohio</td><td align="right">61,998</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">Vermont</td><td align="right">19,005</td><td align="left">Indiana</td><td align="right">132,087</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">New York</td><td align="right">39,386</td><td align="left">Mississippi</td><td align="right">81,032</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">New Jersey</td><td align="right">15,564</td><td align="left">Illinois</td><td align="right">185,406</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">Pennsylvania</td><td align="right">25,416</td><td align="left">Louisiana</td><td align="right">40,665</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">Delaware</td><td align="right">5,487</td><td align="left">Missouri</td><td align="right">110,380</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">Maryland</td><td align="right">9,712</td><td align="left">Alabama</td><td align="right">141,574</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">D. Columbia</td><td align="right">20,639</td><td align="left">Michigan</td><td align="right">250,001</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">Virginia</td><td align="right">13,069</td><td align="left">Arkansas</td><td align="right">113,273</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">N. Carolina</td><td align="right">15,592</td><td align="left">Florida</td><td align="right">&mdash;</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">Average</td><td align="right">32,392</td></tr>
+</table>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;">
+<a name="EXTRACTS"></a><h2><a name="Page_353"></a>EXTRACTS</h2>
+
+<p>FROM</p>
+
+<p>&quot;THE CHEROKEE PHOENIX,&quot;</p>
+
+<p>OF JULY 31, 1830.</p>
+
+<p><i>The following is part of a Letter written by a Creek Chief, from the
+Arkansas territory.</i></p>
+
+<p>&quot;The son of General M'Intosh, (an Indian chief), with the M'Intosh party,
+held a treaty with the government, and were induced, by promises, to
+remove to Arkansas. They were promised 'a home for ever,' if they would
+select one, and that bounds should be marked off to them. This has not
+been done. They were assured that they should draw a proportionate part of
+the annuity due to the Creek nation every year. They have planted corn
+three seasons&mdash;yet they have never drawn one cent of any annuity due to
+them! Why is this? They were promised blankets, guns, ammunition, traps,
+kettles, and a <i>wheelwright</i>. They have drawn some few of each class of
+articles, and only a few&mdash;they have no wheelwright. They were poor;&mdash;but
+above this, they were promised pay for the improvements abandoned by them
+in <a name="Page_354"></a>the old nation. This they have not received. They were further assured
+that they should receive, upon their arrival on Arkansas, <i>thirty dollars</i>
+per head for each emigrant. This they have not received. But the acting
+sub-agent, in the spring 1829, finding their wants very pressing (indeed
+many of them were in a famishing condition), gave to each one his due
+bill, in the name of the agent, for the amount of bounty due them, and
+took their receipts for the amount, as vouchers for the agent, to settle
+his account by with the government. The consequence was, that the Indians,
+not regarding paper as of any real value, would go to the traders, and
+sell the due bills at what they could get for them. And the traders having
+no confidence in the promises of the government through its agents, united
+with the hazard of delay at all events, would not give the real value of
+the amount promised by the due bills. If the Indians attempted to trade
+them to the whites for cattle, or any thing which they stood in need of,
+the consequence was, that they were compelled to make a discount upon
+them. Not finding them worth as many dollars as they purported to be for,
+they were willing to let them go upon any terms, rather than keep them in
+their possession. The due bills amounted, in all, to about <i>twenty-one
+thousand dollars</i>, which due bills are now in the hands of the original
+holders, or the purchasers, but not lifted by the agent according to his
+promise. (Is not the government bound <a name="Page_355"></a>by the acts of its agent or
+attorney?). It is but fair to estimate the loss of the Indians at one
+third of the sum above stated, and this loss owing entirely to the
+government, by its agent's withholding the fulfilment of its contract with
+the M'Intosh party.</p>
+
+<hr style="width: 45%;">
+
+<p>&quot;Mr. Joseph Brearly was left here by his father, the agent, in charge of
+his affairs, and being apprised of a party of <i>emigrants</i> about to arrive,
+was making preparations to obtain the provisions necessary to subsist them
+for one year; and for that purpose had advertised to supply six thousand
+bushels of corn. The day came for closing the contract, when Colonel
+Arbuckle, commanding Cantonment Gibson, handed in a bid, in the name of
+the Creek nation, to furnish the amount of corn required at <i>one dollar
+and twelve cents</i> per bushel; the next lowest bid to his was <i>one dollar
+and fifty cents</i>; so that Colonel Arbuckle saved the government 2,280
+dollars.</p>
+
+<hr style="width: 45%;">
+
+<p>&quot;Mr. Blake, the sub-agent sent by Colonel Crowell, had superseded Mr.
+Brearly, and was engaged in giving his receipts for the corn delivered
+under the contract. A speculation was presented; and as the poor Indians
+were to be the victims of rapacity, why, it was all very well. The
+aforesaid Major Love, to secure the speculation, repaired to St. Louis,
+with <i>letters of credit</i> from Mr. Blake, the sub-agent of Colonel Crowell,
+and purchased <a name="Page_356"></a>several thousand dollars' worth of merchandize, and so soon
+as he could reach the Creek agency, commenced purchasing the corn receipts
+issued by the sub-agent. It is reasonable to suppose that the goods were
+sold, on an average, at two hundred per centum above cost and carriage;
+and by this means the Indians would get about one third of the value of
+their corn at the contract price!&mdash;they offered to let the receipts go at
+twenty-five per cent. discount, if they could only obtain cash for them.</p>
+
+<p>&quot;The United States owe the Creeks money&mdash;they have paid them none in three
+years&mdash;the money has been appropriated by congress. It is withheld by the
+agents. The Indians are destitute of almost every comfort for the want of
+what is due to them. If it is longer withheld from them, it can only be
+so, upon the grounds that the poor Indian, who is unable to compel the
+United States to a compliance with solemn treaties, must linger out a
+miserable degraded existence, while those who have power to extend to him
+the measure of justice, will be left in the <i>full</i> possession of <i>all</i> the
+<i>complacency</i> arising from the solemn <i>assurance</i>, that they are either
+the <i>stupid</i> or <i>guilty</i> authors of his degradation and misery.</p>
+
+<p>&quot;TAH-LOHN-TUS-KY.</p>
+
+<p>&quot;P.S. The Creeks have sent frequent memorials, praying relief from the War
+Department; also a delegation, but can obtain no relief!!&quot;</p><a name="Page_357"></a>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;">
+<a name="Extract_from_a_Communication_made_by_a_Cherokee_Chief"></a><h2><i>Extract from a Communication made by a Cherokee Chief.</i></h2>
+<br>
+
+<p>&quot;A company of whites was in this neighbourhood, with forged notes and
+false accounts to a very considerable amount upon the Indians, and
+forcibly drove off the property of several families. This, Sir, is the
+cause of our misery, poverty, and degradation, for which we have been so
+much reproached. This is what makes us <i>poor devils</i>. If we fail to make
+good crops, some of the white neighbours must starve, for many of them are
+dependent upon us for support, either by fair or foul means. Some of the
+poor creatures are now travelling among us, almost starved, begging for
+something to eat&mdash;they are actually worse than Indians. If they can't get
+by begging, they steal. To make us clear of these evils, and make us happy
+for ever, the unabating avarice of some of the Georgians, by their
+repeated acts of cruelty, point us to homes in the west&mdash;but as long as we
+have a pony or a hog to spare them, we will never go, and not then. This
+land is heaven's gift to us&mdash;it is the birthright of our fathers: as long
+as these mountains lift their lofty summits to heaven, and these beautiful
+rivers roll their tides to the mighty ocean, so long we will remain. May
+heaven pity and save our distressed country!</p>
+
+<p>&quot;VALLEY TOWNS.&quot;</p><a name="Page_358"></a>
+<br>
+
+<p>The following Extracts may serve to show the state of the country to which
+the Indians are compelled to emigrate:</p>
+
+<p>[FROM THE KENTUCKY INTELLIGENCER.]</p>
+
+<p><i>Extract of a Letter, dated Prairie du Chien.</i></p>
+
+<p>&quot;January 15, 1830.</p>
+
+<p>&quot;There is a prospect, I think, that the Indian department in this part of
+the country will soon require efficient officers. There is little doubt
+that there will be a general and sanguinary war among the Indians in the
+spring. The outrages of the Sauks and Foxes, can be endured no longer.
+Within a short time, they have cut off the head of a young Munomonee
+Indian, at the mouth of Winconscin river&mdash;killed a Winnebago woman and
+boy, of the family of Dekaree, and a Sioux called Dixon. The whole Sioux
+nation have made arrangements for a general and simultaneous attack on the
+Foxes; the Winnebagoes, and probably the Munomonees will join them.&quot;</p><a name="Page_359"></a>
+<br>
+
+<p>&quot;Little Rock, Ark. Ter. Feb. 5.</p>
+
+<p>&quot;<i>Murderous Battle.</i>&mdash;A gentleman who arrived here yesterday, direct from
+the Western Creek agency, informs us that a war party of Osages returned
+just before he left the agency, from a successful expedition against the
+Pawnee Indians. He was informed by one of the chiefs, that the party
+seized a Pawnee village, high up on the Arkansas, and had surrounded it
+before the inmates were apprised of their approach. At first the Pawnees
+showed a disposition to resist; but finding themselves greatly outnumbered
+by their assailants, soon sallied forth from their village, and took
+refuge on the margin of a lake, where they again made a stand. Here they
+were again hemmed in by the Osages, who throwing away their guns, fell
+upon them with their knives and tomahawks, and did not cease the work of
+butchery as long as any remained to resist them. Not one escaped. All were
+slain, save a few who were taken prisoners, and who are perhaps destined
+to suffer a more cruel death than those who were butchered on the spot.
+Our informant did not learn what number of Pawnees were killed, but
+understood that the Osages brought in sixty or seventy scalps, besides
+several prisoners.</p>
+
+<p>&quot;We also learn, that the Osages are so much elated with this victory, that
+another war party were preparing to go on an expedition against some
+Choctaws who reside on Red river, with whom they have been at variance for
+some time past.&quot;</p><a name="Page_360"></a>
+<br>
+
+<p><i>Extract of a Letter from an Officer of the Army, dated Prairie du Chien.</i></p>
+
+<p>[FROM THE NEW YORK COM. ADVERTIZER.]</p>
+
+<p>&quot;May 6, 1830.</p>
+
+<p>&quot;<i>Indian Hostilities.</i>&mdash;When coming down the Mississippi, on the raft of
+timber, a war party of Sioux came to me and landed on the raft, but did
+not offer any violence. They were seventy strong, and well armed; and when
+they arrived at the Prairie, they were joined by thirty Menominees, and
+then proceeded down the river in pursuit of the Sauks and Foxes, who lay
+below. This morning they all returned, and reported that they had killed
+ten of the Foxes and two squaws. I saw all the scalps and other trophies
+which they had taken; such as canoes, tomahawks, knives, guns, war clubs,
+spears, &amp;c. A paddle was raised by them in the air, on which was strung
+the head of a squaw and the scalps. They killed the head chief of the Fox
+nation, and took from them all the treaties which the nation had made
+since 1815. I saw them, and read such as I wished. One Sioux killed, and
+three wounded, was all the loss of the northern party. The Winnebagoes
+have joined with the Sioux and Menominees, and the Potawatomies have
+joined with the Sauks and Foxes. We shall have a great battle in a day or
+two.&quot;</p>
+<br>
+<br>
+<hr class="full" noshade>
+<br>
+<br>
+<p>***END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK A RAMBLE OF SIX THOUSAND MILES THROUGH THE UNITED STATES OF AMERICA***</p>
+<p>******* This file should be named 11725-h.txt or 11725-h.zip *******</p>
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+The Project Gutenberg eBook, A Ramble of Six Thousand Miles through the
+United States of America, by S. A. Ferrall
+
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+
+
+
+Title: A Ramble of Six Thousand Miles through the United States of America
+
+Author: S. A. Ferrall
+
+Release Date: March 26, 2004  [eBook #11725]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: US-ASCII
+
+
+***START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK A RAMBLE OF SIX THOUSAND MILES
+THROUGH THE UNITED STATES OF AMERICA***
+
+
+E-text prepared by Project Gutenberg Distributed Proofreaders
+
+
+
+A RAMBLE OF SIX THOUSAND MILES THROUGH THE UNITED STATES OF AMERICA
+
+BY S. A. FERRALL, ESQ.
+
+LONDON, 1832
+
+
+
+
+
+
+[Illustration: _Fac-simile of the first two Paragraphs of the Leading
+Article in the "CHEROKEE PHOENIX" of July 31, 1830_]
+
+
+
+PREFACE.
+
+
+The few sketches contained in this small volume were not originally
+intended for publication--they were written solely for the amusement of my
+immediate acquaintances, and were forwarded to Europe in the shape of
+letters. Subsequent considerations have induced me to publish them; and if
+they be found to contain remarks on some subjects, which other travellers
+in America have passed over unnoticed, the end that I have in view will be
+fully answered.
+
+Although I remained in the seaboard cities sufficiently long to have
+collected much information; yet knowing that the statistics of those
+places had been so often and so ably set before the public, I felt no
+inclination to trouble my friends with their repetition.
+
+In Europe, the name of America is so associated with the idea of
+emigration, that to announce an intention of crossing the Atlantic, rouses
+the interfering propensity of friends and acquaintances, and produces such
+a torrent of queries and remonstrances, as will require a considerable
+share of moral courage to listen to and resist. All are on the tiptoe of
+expectation, to hear what the inducements can possibly be for travelling
+in America. America!! every one exclaims--what can you possibly see there?
+A country like America--little better than a mere forest--the inhabitants
+notoriously far behind Europeans in refinement--filled with wild Indians,
+rattle-snakes, bears, and backwoodsmen; ferocious hogs and ugly negros;
+and every other species of noxious and terrific animal!
+
+Without, however, any definite scientific object, or indeed any motive
+much more important than a love of novelty, I determined on visiting
+America; within whose wide extent all the elements of society, civilized
+and uncivilized, were to be found--where the great city could be traced to
+the infant town--where villages dwindle into scattered farms--and these to
+the log-house of the solitary backwoodsman, and the temporary wig-wam of
+the wandering Pawnee.
+
+I have refrained nearly altogether from touching on the domestic habits
+and manners of the Americans, because they have been treated of by
+Captain Hall and others; and as the Americans always allowed me to act as
+I thought proper, and even to laugh at such of their habits as I thought
+singular, I am by no means inclined to take exception to them.
+
+
+
+
+CONTENTS.
+
+
+CHAPTER I.
+
+Sail for New York in an American vessel--the crew--ostentation of the
+Captain--a heavy gale--soundings--icebergs--bay of New York--Negros and
+Negresses--White Ladies--climate--fires--vagrant pigs--Frances
+Wright--Match between an Indian canoe and a skiff
+
+
+CHAPTER II.
+
+Depart for Albany--the Hudson--Albany--Cohoe's Falls--Rome--the Little
+Falls--forest of charred trees--"stilly night" in a swamp--fire
+fly--Rochester--Falls of Gennessee--Sam. Patch--an eccentric
+character--Falls of Niagara--the Tuscarora Indians--Buffalo--Lake
+Erie--the Iroquois--the Wyandots--death of Seneca John, and its
+consequences--ague fever--Wyandot prairie--the Delawares' mode of dealing
+with the Indians--the transporting of Negros to Canada
+
+
+CHAPTER III.
+
+Arrive at Marion--divorces--woodlands--Columbus--land offices--population,
+&c. Shaking Quakers--kidnapping free Negros--Cincinnati--the farmers of
+Ohio--a corn-husking frolic--qualifications necessary to Senators,
+Legislators, and Electors--a camp-meeting--militia officers'
+muster--Presbyterian parsons--price of land, cattle, &c.--fever and ague
+
+
+CHAPTER IV.
+
+Set out for New Harmony--the roads--a backwoodsman--the
+journey--peaches--casualties--travelling--New Harmony--M. Le
+Seur--barter--excursion down the Wabash--the co-operative
+community--Robert Owen
+
+
+CHAPTER V.
+
+Depart for St. Louis--Albion--the late Messrs. Birkbeck and
+Flowers--Hardgrove's prairie--the roads--the Grand prairie--prairie
+wolf--mode of training dogs--Elliott's inn--inhabitants of
+Illinois--ablutions--coal--soil and produce--the American Bottom--St
+Louis--monopolies--Fur companies--incivility of a certain Major--trapping
+expedition--trade with Santa Fe--lead mines--Carondalot--Jefferson
+barracks--discipline--visit to a slave-holder--the Ioway hostages--Indian
+investigation--character of the Indians.
+
+
+CHAPTER VI
+
+Leave St. Louis--Indian mounds--remains of ancient fortifications--burial
+caverns--mummies--Flint's description of a mummy--the languages of
+America--town making--the Indian summer--population, &c. of Illinois--the
+prairie hen--the Turkey buzzard--settlers--forest in autumn--a gouging
+scrape--the country--extent and population of Indiana--hogs--a settler in
+bottom land--the sugar maple--roads--a baptism
+
+
+CHAPTER VII
+
+Set out for New Orleans--Louisville--Mississippi steam-boats--the
+Ohio--the Mississippi--sugar plantations--the valley of the
+Mississippi--New Orleans--Quadroons--slavery--a Methodist slavite--runaway
+Negros--incendiary fires at Orleans--liberty of the press--laws passed by
+the legislature of Louisiana--Miss Wright--public schools--yellow
+fever--the Texas
+
+
+CHAPTER VIII.
+
+Depart for Louisville--tellandsea, or Spanish moss--Natchez--the yellow
+fever--cotton plantations--Mississippi wood-cutters--freshets--planters,
+sawyers, and snags--steam-boat blown up--the Chickesaws--hunting in
+Tennessee--electioneering--vote by ballot--trade on the Ohio and
+Mississippi rivers--the People--the President's veto--finances--government
+banks--Kentucky--the Kentuckians--court-houses--an election--universal
+suffrage--an Albino--Diluvian reliqua
+
+
+CHAPTER IX.
+
+The political condition of the Indians--Missionaries--the letter of
+Red-jacket--the speech of the wandering Pawnee chief
+
+
+CHAPTER X.
+
+Kenhawa salt-works--coal--a
+Radical--rattle-snakes--Baltimore--Philadelphia--taxation--shipping
+
+
+CHAPTER XI.
+
+"The Workies"--Miss Wright--the opening of the West India ports to
+American vessels--voyage homeward--the stormy petrel--Gulf weed--the
+remora--the molusca--quarantine
+
+
+APPENDIX
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER I.
+
+
+Following the plan I had laid down for myself, I sought and found a goodly
+Yankee merchantman, bound for and belonging to the city of New York. Our
+vessel was manned with a real _American_ crew, that is, a crew, of which
+scarcely two men are of the same nation--which conveys a tolerably correct
+notion of the population of the United States. The crew consisted of one
+Russian, one German, one Italian, one Scotchman, one Newfoundlander, one
+Irishman, two Englishmen, two New Englanders, and two Negros--the cook and
+steward. The seamen of America are better paid, and better protected,
+than those of any other nation; but work harder, and must understand their
+duty well. Indeed if we had not had a good crew, our ship, being old,
+might have suffered severely.
+
+In selecting this ship, in addition to accommodations, I only took into
+account her build; and so far was not disappointed, for when she _could_
+carry sail, she scudded along in gallant style; but with ships as with
+horses, the more they _have done_, the less they have _to do_.
+
+I had a strong impression on my mind that a person travelling in America
+as a professed tourist, would be unable to form a correct estimate of the
+real character and condition of the people; for, from their great
+nationality, they would be likely to show him the best side of every
+thing. Of this kind of ostentation I very soon had a slight proof. Our
+ship left port in gallant trim, but had no sooner gained the open sea,
+than all hands were employed in stowing away the finery, and covering the
+rigging with mats--even the very cabin doors were taken off the hinges,
+and brass knobs and other ornaments which appeared to have been fixtures,
+were unshipped and deposited below, where they remained until our approach
+to New York, when the finery was again displayed, and all was placed once
+more _in statu quo_.
+
+For the first twelve days we had rather pleasant weather, and nothing
+remarkable occurred, unless a swallow coming on board completely exhausted
+with flying, fatigue made it so tame that it suffered itself to be
+caressed; it however popped into the coop, and the ducks literally gobbled
+it up alive. The ducks were, same day, suffered to roam about the decks,
+and the pigs fell foul of one of them, and eat the breast off it. Passing
+the cabouse, I heard the negro steward soliloquising, and on looking in,
+perceived him cutting a hen's throat with the most heartfelt satisfaction,
+as he grinned and exclaimed, by way of answer to its screams, "Poor
+feller! I guess I wouldn't hurt you for de world;" I could not help
+thinking with Leibnitz, that most sapient of philosophers, that this is
+the best of all possible worlds.
+
+On the thirteenth day we encountered a heavy gale, which continued to
+increase for four successive days. During this period we were unable to
+carry more canvass than was barely necessary to render the vessel
+manageable. A heavy gale, for the first time, is rather interesting than
+otherwise: the novelty of the sea's appearance--the anxiety of the crew
+and officers--the promptitude with which commands are given and
+executed--and the excitement produced by the other incidental occurrences,
+tend to make even a storm, when encountered in open sea, by no means
+destitute of pleasing interest. During this gale, the sailors appeared to
+be more than ordinarily anxious only upon one occasion, and then only for
+a minute--the circumstance was not calculated to create alarm in the mind
+of a person totally ignorant of nautical affairs, but being somewhat of a
+sailor, I understood the danger tolerably well. The helm was struck by a
+sea, and strained at the bolts; from the concussion occasioned by the
+blow, it was apprehended for a moment that it had been carried away.
+Without a helm, in such weather, much was to be feared; for her timbers
+being old, she could hardly meet the shock of an ocean wave upon her
+broadside without suffering serious injury. The helmsman was knocked
+down--the captain and mate jumped aft, to ascertain the extent of the
+damage; while the sailors scowled along the deck, as they laid their
+shoulders to the weather side of the ship--all was anxiety for the
+instant. At length the mate cried, "helm all right," and the crew pulled
+away as usual. At the close of the fourth day the storm subsided, and we
+approached the banks of Newfoundland.
+
+It is generally supposed that the colour of the sea is a sure indication
+of the presence or absence of soundings; that is, that there are
+soundings where the water is green, and that there are none where the
+water is blue. The former is, I believe, true in every instance; but the
+latter is certainly not so, as the first soundings we got here, were in
+water as blue as indigo, depth fifty odd fathoms.
+
+We were thirty days crossing these tiresome banks; during which time we
+were befogged, and becalmed, and annoyed with all sorts of disagreeable
+weather. The fogs or mists were frequently so dense, that it was
+impossible to see more than thirty yards from the vessel. This course is
+not that usually taken by ships bound for the United States, as they
+generally cross the Atlantic at much lower latitudes, but our captain
+"calculated" on escaping calms, and avoiding the influence of the Gulf
+stream, and thus making a quicker passage; he was, however, mistaken, as a
+packet ship that left Liverpool four days after, arrived at New York
+sixteen days before us.
+
+We found the thermometer of incalculable service, both for ascertaining
+when we got into the stream, and for disclosing our dangerous proximity to
+icebergs. That we had approached near icebergs we discovered one evening
+to be the case by the mercury falling, suddenly, below 40 deg., in foggy
+weather. We notwithstanding held on our course, and fortunately escaped
+accident. Many vessels which depart from port with gallant crews, and are
+never heard of more, are lost, I am convinced, by fatal collision with
+these floating islands. From the beginning of spring to the latter end of
+summer, masses of brash ice are occasionally encountered in these
+latitudes.
+
+Towards the evening of the fiftieth day we entered the bay of New York:
+the bay is really beautiful, and at this season (summer) perhaps appeared
+to the greatest advantage. The numerous islands with which it is
+interspersed, were covered to the water's edge with foliage and verdure,
+and here and there studded with handsome villas. The city appeared to be
+literally surrounded by a thick grove of masts, from which floated the
+flags of many nations--the scene, thus gradually unfolding itself to the
+eyes of one who had been for so long a time immured within a vessel, was
+really fascinating.
+
+While at New York, I staid at the "Pearl-street Boarding-house," and
+experienced from Messrs. Haskell and Perry, the proprietors, the most
+polite attention. Most Europeans are astonished at the rapidity with which
+the Americans despatch their meals; but I, having admitted the
+proposition, that there was "nothing new under the sun," had long
+previously ceased to be _astonished_ at any thing. On the first day of my
+dining at the table d'hote, one of those gentlemen told me, when we sat
+down to dinner, that most of the persons at table were men of business,
+who were in the habit of eating much quicker than he knew I was accustomed
+to, and requested that that might not in the slightest interfere with my
+habits, but that I should entirely suit my own comfort and convenience.
+After that preface, I think I should have been most unreasonable to fall
+into a passion with the New Yorkers, because they _bolted_ instead of
+masticating.
+
+New York is altogether a trading place, and different from any thing of
+the same magnitude in Europe: scarcely a single street is exclusively
+filled with private residences;--in a mercantile point of view, it is the
+Liverpool of the United States.
+
+The negros and mulattos constitute a considerable portion of the
+population. It is impossible to imagine the extreme ugliness of some of
+the sooty gentry; a decent ourang-outang might, without presumption, vie
+with many of these people, even of the _fair sex_, and an impartial judge
+should certainly decide that the said ourang-outang was the handsomer
+animal. Many of them are wealthy, and dress remarkably well. The females,
+when their shins and misshapen feet are concealed by long gowns, appear
+to have good figures. A few days after my arrival, walking down "Broadway"
+(the principal street) I was struck with the figure of a fashionably
+dressed woman, who was sauntering before me. After passing, I turned
+round, when--O angels and ministers of ugliness!--I beheld a face, as
+black as soot--a mouth that reached from ear to ear--a nose, like nothing
+human--and lips a full inch in diameter! On the following morning, whilst
+dressing at my bed-room window, I heard a squeaking sort of voice warbling
+forth, "Love was once a little Boy," and "I'd be a Butterfly." The strange
+_melody_ and unusual intonations induced me to look out, when, to my
+astonishment, I found that the _fair_ songstress was a most
+hideous-looking negress! Such are the scenes that constantly present
+themselves here, and remind a European that he is in a new region.
+
+The white ladies dress fashionably, generally _a la Francoise_; have
+straight figures, and with the help of a little cotton, judiciously
+disposed, and sometimes, the smallest possible portion of rouge, contrive
+to look rather interesting; in general, they are lamentably deficient in
+_tournure_ and _en-bon-point_. The hands and feet of the greatest belle,
+are _pas mignon_, and would be termed plebeian by the Anglo-Normans--the
+aristocracy of England. Yet I have seen many girls extremely handsome
+indeed, having a delicate bloom and fair skin; but this does not endure
+long, as the variable nature of the climate--the sudden and violent
+transitions of temperature which occur on this continent, destroy, in a
+few years, the complexion of the finest woman. When she arrives at the age
+of thirty, her skin is shrivelled and discoloured; she is thin, and has
+all the indications of premature old age. The women of England retain
+their beauty at least ten years longer than those of America.
+
+The inhabitants of that part of New York nearest the shipping, are
+extremely sallow and unhealthy looking, and many have a most cadaverous
+aspect. Malaria certainly exists here in some degree. A man will tell you
+that the city is perfectly healthy, whilst his own appearance most
+unquestionably indicates disease. I speak now of the quays and adjacent
+streets; and the cause is very apparent. The wharfs are faced with wood,
+and the retiring of the tide exposes a rotten vegetable substance to the
+action of an almost tropical sun, which, added to the filth that is
+invariably found in the neighbourhood of shipping, is quite sufficient to
+produce the degree of unhealthiness that exists. On going up the town, the
+appearance of the inhabitants gradually improves, and approaching the
+suburbs, the difference is striking,--in this district I have seen persons
+as stout and healthy looking as any in England or Ireland.
+
+On the night of my arrival, a fire broke out, by which several extensive
+warehouses were entirely consumed. There is nothing more remarkable here
+than the frequent occurrence of this calamity, except the excellent
+arrangements that are made for arresting its progress. The engines,
+apparatus, and _corps de pompiers_, are admirably maintained, and the
+promptitude and regularity with which they arrive at the scene of
+devastation truly astonishing: indeed, were this not the case, the city
+must very soon be destroyed; for notwithstanding all their exertions,
+every conflagration makes it minus several houses, and few nights pass
+without bringing a misfortune of this nature.
+
+There are several theatres, churches, and other public buildings,
+dispersed throughout the city. The City Hall, which stands near the upper
+end of a small enclosure, called the Park, is considered the handsomest
+building in the United States. It was finished in 1812, and cost half a
+million dollars.
+
+The police regulations appear not to be so severe as they ought to be, for
+droves of hogs are permitted to roam about the streets, to the terror of
+fine ladies, and the great annoyance of all pedestrians.
+
+New York was settled by the Dutch in 1615, and called by them New
+Amsterdam. In 1634, it was conquered by the English,--retaken by the Dutch
+in 1673, and restored in 1674. Its present population is estimated at
+213,000.
+
+Having heard that the celebrated Frances Wright, authoress of "A Few Days
+in Athens," was publicly preaching and promulgating her doctrines in the
+city, I determined on paying the "Hall of Science" a visit, in which
+establishment she usually lectured. The address she delivered on the
+evening I attended had been previously delivered on the fourth of July, in
+the city of Philadelphia; but, at the request of a numerous party of
+"Epicureans," she was induced to repeat it. The hall might contain perhaps
+ten or twelve hundred persons, and on this occasion it was filled to
+excess, by a well-dressed audience of both sexes.
+
+The person of Frances Wright is tall and commanding--her features are
+rather masculine, and the melancholy cast which her countenance ordinarily
+assumes gives it rather a harsh appearance--her dark chestnut hair hangs
+in long graceful curls about her neck; and when delivering her lectures,
+her appearance is romantic and unique.
+
+She is a speaker of great eloquence and ability, both as to the matter of
+her orations, and the manner of their delivery. The first sentence she
+utters rivets your attention; and, almost unconsciously, your sympathies
+are excited, and you are carried onward by the reasonings and the
+eloquence of this disciple of the Gardens. The impression made on the
+audience assembled on that occasion was really wonderful. Once or twice,
+when I could withdraw my attention from the speaker, I regarded the
+countenances of those around me, and certainly never witnessed any thing
+more striking. The high-wrought interest depicted in their faces, added to
+the breathless silence that reigned throughout the building, made the
+spectacle the most imposing I ever beheld. She was the Cumaean Sibyl
+delivering oracles and labouring under the inspiration of the God of
+Day.--This address was chiefly of a political character, and she took care
+to flatter the prejudices of the Americans, by occasionally recurring to
+the advantages their country possessed over European states--namely, the
+absence of country gentlemen, and of a church establishment; for to the
+absence of these the Americans attribute a large portion of the very great
+degree of comfort they enjoy.
+
+Near Hoboken, about three miles up North river, at the opposite side to
+New York, a match took place between a boat rowed by two watermen, and a
+canoe paddled by two Indians. The boat was long and narrow, similar in
+form to those that ply on the Thames. The canoe was of the lightest
+possible construction, being composed of thin hickory ribs covered with
+bark. In calm weather, the Indians propel these vessels through the water
+with astonishing velocity; but when the wind is high, and the water much
+disturbed, their progress is greatly impeded. It so happened on this day
+that the water was rough, and consequently unfavourable to the Aborigines.
+At the appointed signal the competitors started. For a short distance the
+Indians kept up with their rivals, but the long heavy pull of the oar soon
+enabled the boatmen to leave them at a distance. The Indians, true to
+their character, seeing the contest hopeless, after the first turn, no
+longer contended for victory; they paddled deliberately back to the
+starting place, stepped out, and carried their canoe on shore. The
+superiority of the oar over the paddle was in this contest fully
+demonstrated.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER II.
+
+
+Having determined on quitting "the London of the States," as my friends
+the Yankees call New York, I had bag and baggage conveyed on board a
+steamer bound for Albany. The arrangements and accommodations on board
+this boat were superb, and surpassed any thing of the kind I ever met with
+in Europe, on the same scale; and the groups of well-dressed passengers
+fully indicated the general prosperity of the country.
+
+The distance between New York and Albany is about 165 miles. The scenery
+on the Hudson is said to be the most beautiful of any in America, and I
+believe cannot be surpassed in any country. Many of the beauties of rich
+European scenery are to be found along the banks of that noble river. In
+the highlands, about fifty miles from New York, is West Point, on which
+stands a strong fortress, containing an arsenal, a military-school, and a
+garrison. It is romantically situated among lofty crags and mountains,
+which rise above the level of the water from 1100 to 1500 feet. There are
+many handsome country seats and villages between West Point and Hudson,
+where the river is more than a mile wide.
+
+After a passage of about sixteen or seventeen hours, we arrived at Albany.
+The charge for passage, including dinner and tea, was only three dollars;
+and the day following the cost was reduced, through the spirit of
+opposition, to one dollar.
+
+Albany is the legislative capital of New York. It is a handsome city, and
+one of the oldest in the Union. Most of the houses are built of wood,
+which, when tastefully painted (not often the case) have rather a pleasing
+appearance. The situation of this city is advantageous, both from the
+direct communication which it enjoys with the Atlantic, by means of sloops
+and schooners, and the large tract of back country which it commands. A
+trade with Canada is established by means of the Erie and Hudson canal.
+The capitol, and other public buildings, are large and handsome, and being
+constructed of either brick or stone, give the city a respectable
+appearance.
+
+Albany, in 1614, was first settled by the Dutch, and was by them called
+Orange. On its passing into the hands of the English, in 1664, its present
+name was given to it, in honour of the Duke of York. It was chartered in
+1686.
+
+From Albany I proceeded along the canal, by West Troy and Junction, and
+near the latter place we came to Cohoe's Falls, on the Mohawk. The river
+here is about 250 yards wide, which rushing over a jagged and uneven bed
+of rocks, produces a very picturesque effect. The canal runs nearly
+parallel with this river from Junction to Utica, crossing it twice, at an
+interval of seven miles, over aqueducts nearly fifty rods in length,
+constructed of solid beams of timber. The country is very beautiful, and
+for the most part well cultivated. The soil possesses every variety of
+good and bad. The farms along the canal are valuable, land being generally
+worth from fifty to a hundred dollars per acre.
+
+Above Schenectady, a very ancient town, the bed of the canal gave way,
+which of course obliged us to come to a dead halt. I hired, for myself and
+two others, a family waggon (dignified here with the appellation of
+_carriage_) to take us beyond the break, in expectation of being able to
+get a boat thence onwards, but unfortunately all the upward-bound boats
+had proceeded. We were, therefore, obliged to wait until next morning. My
+fellow travellers having light luggage, got themselves and it into a hut
+at the other side of the lock; but I, having heavy baggage, which it was
+impossible to carry across, was compelled to remain on the banks, between
+the canal and the Mohawk, all night. On the river there were several
+canoes, with fishermen spearing by torch-light; while on the banks the
+boatmen and boys, Mulattos and whites, were occupied in gambling. They had
+tables, candles, dice, and cards. With these, and with a _quantum
+sufficit_ of spirits, they contrived to while away the time until
+day-break; of course interlarding their conversation with a reasonable
+quantity of oaths and imprecations. The breach being repaired early in the
+morning, the boats came up, and we proceeded to Utica.
+
+Seven miles above Utica is seated Rome, a small and dirty town, bearing no
+possible resemblance to the "Eternal City," even in its more modern
+condition, as the residence of the "Triple Prince;" but, on the contrary,
+having, if one could judge from the habitations, every appearance of
+squalid poverty. Fifteen miles further on, we passed the Little Falls. It
+was night when we came to them, but it being moonlight, we had an
+opportunity of seeing them to advantage. The crags are here
+stupendous--irregular and massive piles of rocks, from which spring the
+lofty pine and cedar, are heaped in frightful disorder on each other, and
+give the scene a terrifically grand appearance.
+
+From Rome to Syracuse, a distance of forty-six miles, the canal is cut
+through a swampy forest, a great portion of which is composed of dead
+trees. One of the most dismal scenes imaginable is a forest of charred
+trees, which is occasionally to be met with in this country, especially in
+the route by which I was travelling. It is caused by the woods being
+fired, by accident or otherwise. The aspect of these blasted monuments of
+ruined vegetation is strange and peculiar; and the air of desertion and
+desolation which pervades their neighbourhood, reminds one of the stories
+that are told of the Upas valley of Java, for here too not a bird is to
+be seen. The smell arising from this swamp in the night, was so bad as to
+oblige us to shut all the windows and doors of the boat, which, added to
+the bellowing and croaking of the bull frogs--the harsh and incessant
+noise of the grasshoppers, and the melancholy cry of the whip-poor-will,
+formed a combination not of the most agreeable nature. Yet, in defiance of
+all this, we were induced occasionally to brave the terrors of the night,
+in order to admire that beautiful insect the fire-fly, or as it is called
+by the natives, "lightning bug." They emit a greenish phosphorescent
+light, and are seen at this season in every part of the country. The woods
+here were full of them, and seemed literally to be studded with small
+stars, which emitted a bright flickering light.
+
+After you pass Syracuse, the country begins to improve; but still it is
+low and marshy, and for the most part unhealthy, as the appearance of the
+people clearly indicates. In this country, as in every other, the canals
+are generally cut through comparatively low lands, and the low lands here,
+with few exceptions, are all swampy; however, a great deal of the
+unhealthiness which pervades this district, arises from want of attention.
+A large portion of the inhabitants are Low Dutch, who appear never to be
+in their proper element, unless when settled down in the midst of a swamp.
+They allow rotten timber to accumulate, and stagnant pools to remain about
+their houses, and from these there arises an effluvium which is most
+unpleasant in warm weather, which, however, they do not seem to perceive.
+
+We entered Rochester, through an aqueduct thirty rods in length, built of
+stone, across the Genessee river. Rochester is the handsomest town on this
+line. Some of the houses here are tastefully decorated. All the windows
+have Venetian blinds, and generally there are one or two covered balconies
+attached to the front of each house. Before the doors there are small
+_parterres_, planted with rose-trees, and other fragrant shrubs. About
+half a mile from the town are the Falls of Genessee. The water glides over
+an even bed of limestone rock, ninety-six feet above the level of the
+river below. There is a beautiful regularity in this fall, but its extreme
+uniformity divests it of picturesque effect. Here the celebrated diver,
+Sam. Patch, subsequently met his fate in diving off this precipice. He had
+performed similar feats at the Falls of Niagara, without sustaining any
+injury. He was not killed by the fall; but is supposed to have fainted
+when midway from, his leap, as his arms were observed to relax, and his
+legs to open, before he reached the water.
+
+On my journey I met with an Englishman, a Mr. W----. He dressed _a la Mungo
+Park_, wearing a jacket and trowsers of jean, and a straw hat. He was a
+great pedestrian; had travelled through most of the southern States, and
+was now on his tour through this part of the country. He was a gentleman
+about fifty,--silent and retiring in his habits. Enamoured of the
+orange-trees of Georgia, he intended returning there or to Carolina, and
+ending his days. We agreed to visit the Falls of Niagara together, and
+accordingly quitted the boat at Tonawanta. When we had dined, and had
+deposited our luggage in the safe keeping of the Niagara hotel-keeper, my
+companion shouldered his vigne stick, and to one end of which he appended
+a small bundle, containing a change of linen, &c., and I put on my
+shooting coat of many pockets, and shouldered my gun. Thus equipped, we
+commenced our journey to the Great Falls. The distance from Tonawanta to
+the village of the Falls, now called Manchester, is about eleven miles.
+The way lies through a forest, in which there are but a few scattered
+habitations. A great part of the road runs close to the river Niagara; and
+the occasional glimpses of this broad sheet of water, which are obtained
+through the rich foliage of the forest, added to the refreshing breeze
+that approached us through the openings, rendered our pedestrian excursion
+extremely delightful.
+
+Towards evening we arrived at the village, and proceeded to reconnoitre,
+in order to fix our position for the night. After having done this
+satisfactorily, we then turned our attention to the all-important
+operation of eating and drinking. While supping, an eccentric-looking
+person passed out through the apartment in which we were. His odd
+appearance excited our curiosity, and we inquired who this
+mysterious-looking gentleman was. We were informed that he was an
+Englishman, and that he had been lodging there for the last six months,
+but that he concealed his real name. He slept in one corner of a large
+barrack room, in which there were of course several other beds. On a small
+table by his bed-side there were a few French and Latin books, and some
+scraps of poetry touching on the tender passion. These, and a German
+flute, which we observed standing against the window, gave us some clue to
+his character. He was a tall, romantic-looking young man, apparently about
+twenty-seven or twenty-eight years of age. His dress was particularly
+shabby. This the landlord told us was from choice, not from necessity, as
+he had two trunks full of clothes nearly new. The reason he gave for
+dressing as he did, was his knowing, he said, that if he dressed well,
+people would be talking to him, which he wished to avoid; but, that by
+dressing as he did, he made sure that no one would ever think of giving
+him any annoyance of that kind. I thought this idea unique: and whether he
+be still at Niagara, or has taken up his abode at the foot of the Rocky
+mountains, I pronounce him to be a Diogenes without a tub. He has read at
+least one page in the natural history of civilized man.
+
+We visited the Falls, at the American side by moonlight. There was then an
+air of grandeur and sublimity in the scene which I shall long remember.
+Yet at this side they are not seen to the greatest advantage. Next morning
+I crossed the Niagara river, below the Falls, into Canada. I did not
+ascend the bank to take the usual route to the Niagara hotel, at which
+place there is a spiral staircase descending 120 feet towards the foot of
+the Falls, but clambered along at the base of the cliffs until I reached
+the point immediately below the stairs. I here rested, and indeed required
+it much, for the day was excessively warm, and I had unfortunately
+encumbered myself with my gun and shot pouch. The Falls are here seen in
+all their grandeur. Two immense volumes of water glide over perpendicular
+precipices upwards of 170 feet in height, and tumble among the crags below
+with a roaring that _we_ distinctly heard on our approach to the village,
+at the distance of five miles up the river: and down the river it can be
+heard at a much greater distance. The Falls are divided by Goat Island
+into two parts. The body of water which falls to the right of the island
+is much greater than that which falls to the left; and the cliffs to the
+right assume the form of a horse-shoe. To the left there is also a
+considerable indentation, caused by a late falling in of the rock; but it
+scarcely appears from the Canadian side. The rushing of the waters over
+such immense precipices--the dashing of the spray, which rises in a white
+cloud at the base of the Falls, and is felt at the distance of a quarter
+of a mile--the many and beautiful rainbows that occasionally
+appear,--united, form a grand and imposing _coup d'oeil_.
+
+The Fall is supposed to have been originally at the table-land near
+Lewiston; and indeed, from the nature of the ground, and its present
+condition below the Falls, no reasonable objection can be entertained to
+that supposition. The upper part of the cliffs is composed of hard
+limestone, and underneath is a bed of schistus. Now this schistus is
+continually worn away by the water's dashing against it. This leaves the
+upper part, or immediate bed of the river, without foundation. When,
+therefore, from extraordinary floods, the pressure of the incumbent fluid
+becomes more than usually great, the rock gives way; and thus, gradually,
+the Falls have receded several miles.
+
+I at length ascended the stairs, and popped my head into the shanty, _sans
+ceremonie_, to the no small amazement of the cunning compounder of
+"cock-tails," and "mint julaps" who presided at the bar. It was clear that
+I had ascended the stairs, but how the deuce I had got down was the
+question. I drank my "brandy sling," and retreated before he had recovered
+from his surprise, and thus I escaped the volley of interrogatories with
+which I should have been most unsparingly assailed. I walked for some
+distance along the Canadian heights, and then crossed the river, where I
+met my friend waiting my return under a clump of scrub oak.
+
+We had previously determined on visiting the Tuscarora village, an Indian
+settlement about eight miles down the river, and not far from Ontario.
+This is a tribe of one of the six nations, the last that was admitted into
+the Confederation. They live in a state of community; and in their
+arrangements for the production and distribution of wealth, approach
+nearer to the Utopean system than any community with which I am
+acquainted. The squaws told us that no Indian there could claim any thing
+but what was contained within his own cabin; that the produce of the land
+was common property, and that they never quarrelled about its division. We
+dined in one of their cabins, on lean mutton and corn bread. The interior
+of their habitations is not conspicuous for cleanliness; nor are they so
+far civilized as to be capable of breaking their word. The people at the
+Niagara village told us, that with the exception of two individuals in
+that community, any Indian could get from them on credit either money or
+goods to whatever amount he required.
+
+I here parted with my fellow traveller, perhaps for ever. He went to
+Lewiston, whence he intended to cross into Canada, and to walk along the
+shores of Ontario; whilst I made the best of my way back through the woods
+to Manchester. I certainly think our landlord had some misgivings
+respecting the fate of my companion. We had both departed together: I
+alone was armed--and I alone returned. However, as I unflinchingly stood
+examination and cross-examination, and sojourned until next morning, his
+fears seemed to be entirely dispelled. Next day I took a long, last look
+at Niagara, and departed for Tonawanta.
+
+At Tonawanta I again took the canal-boat to Buffalo, a considerable town
+on the shores of lake Erie, and at the head of the canal navigation. There
+are several good buildings in this town, and some well-appointed hotels.
+Lake schooners, and steam and canal boats are here in abundance, it being
+an entrepot for western produce and eastern merchandize. A few straggling
+Indians are to be seen skulking about Buffalo, like dogs in Cairo, the
+victims of the inordinate use of ardent spirits.
+
+From Buffalo I proceeded in a steamer along lake Erie, to Portland in
+Ohio, now called Sandusky City; the distance 240 miles. After about an
+hour's sail, we entirely lost sight of the Canadian shores. The scenery on
+the American side is very fine, particularly from Presqu' Isle onward to
+the head of the lake, or rather from its magnitude, it might be termed an
+inland sea.
+
+On landing at Sandusky, I learned that there were several Indian reserves
+between that place and Columbus, the seat of government. This determined
+me on making a pedestrian tour to that city. Accordingly, having forwarded
+my luggage, and made other necessary arrangements, I commenced my
+pergrinations among the Aborigines.
+
+The woods in the upper part of Ohio, nearest the lake, are tolerably open,
+and occasionally interspersed with sumach and sassafras: the soil
+somewhat sandy. I met with but few Indians, until my arrival at Lower
+Sandusky, on the Sandusky river; here there were several groups returning
+to their reserves, from Canada, where they had been to receive the annual
+presents made them by the British government. In the next county (Seneca)
+there is a reservation of about three miles square, occupied by Senecas,
+Cayugas, and part of the Iroquois or six nations, once a most powerful
+confederation amongst the red men.[1] In Crawford county there is a very
+large reserve belonging to the Huron or Wyandot Indians. These, though
+speaking a dialect of the Iroquois tongue, are more in connexion with the
+Delawares than with the Iroquois. The Wyandots are much esteemed by their
+white neighbours, for probity and good behaviour. They dress very
+tastefully. A handsome chintz shawl tied in the Moorish fashion about the
+head--leggings of blue cloth, reaching half way up the thigh, sewn at the
+outside, leaving a hem of about an inch deep--mocassins, or Indian boots,
+made of deer-skin, to fit the foot close, like a glove--a shirt or tunic
+of white calico--and a hunting shirt, or frock, made of strong
+blue-figured cotton or woollen cloth, with a small fringed cape, and long
+sleeves,--a tomahawk and scalping knife stuck in a broad leather belt.
+Accoutred in this manner, and mounted on a small hardy horse, called here
+an Indian pony, imagine a tall, athletic, brown man, with black hair and
+eyes--the hair generally plaited in front, and sometimes hanging in long
+wavy curls behind--aquiline nose, and fearless aspect, and you have a fair
+idea of the Wyandot and Cayuga Indian. The Senecas and Oneidas whom I met
+with, were not so handsome in general, but as athletic, and about the same
+average height--five feet nine or ten.
+
+The Indians here, as every where else, are governed by their own laws, and
+never have recourse to the whites to settle their disputes. That silent
+unbending spirit, which has always characterized the Indian, has alone
+kept in check the rapacious disposition of the whites. Several attempts
+have been made to induce the Indians to sell their lands, and go beyond
+the Mississippi, but hitherto without effect. The Indian replies to the
+fine speeches and wily language of the whites, "We hold this small bit of
+land, in the vast country of our fathers, by _your_ written talk, and it
+is noted on _our_ wampums--the bones of our fathers lie here, and we
+cannot forsake them. You tell us our great father (the president) is
+powerful, and that his arm is long and strong--we believe it is so; but we
+are in hopes that he will not strike his red children for their lands, and
+that he will leave us this little piece to live upon--the hatchet is long
+buried, let it not be disturbed."
+
+Jackson has lately published a manifesto to all the Indian tribes within
+the limits of the United States, commanding them to sell their reserves;
+and with few exceptions, has been answered in this manner.
+
+A circumstance occurred a few days previous to my arrival, in the Seneca
+reserve, which may serve to illustrate the determined character of the
+Indian. There were three brothers (chiefs) dwelling in this reservation.
+"Seneca John," the eldest brother, was the principal chief of the tribe,
+and a man much esteemed by the white people. He died by poison. The
+chiefs in council, having satisfactorily ascertained that his second
+brother "Red-hand," and a squaw, had poisoned him, decreed that Red-hand
+should be put to death. "Black-snake," the other brother, told the chiefs
+that if Red-hand must die, he himself would kill him, in order to prevent
+feuds arising in the tribe. Accordingly in the evening he repaired to the
+hut of Red-hand, and after having sat in silence for some time, said, "My
+best chiefs say, you have killed my father's son,--they say my brother
+must die." Red-hand merely replied, "They say so;" and continued to smoke.
+After about fifteen minutes further silence, Black-snake said, pointing to
+the setting sun, "When he appears above those trees"--moving his arm round
+to the opposite direction--"I come to kill you." Red-hand nodded his head
+in the short significant style of the Indian, and said "Good." The next
+morning Black-snake came, followed by two chiefs, and having entered the
+hut, first put out the squaw, he then returned and stood before his
+brother, his eyes bent on the ground. Red-hand said calmly, "Has my
+brother come that I may die?"--"It is so," was the reply. "Then,"
+exclaimed Red-hand, grasping his brother's left hand with his own right,
+and dashing the shawl from his head, "Strike sure!" In an instant the
+tomahawk was from the girdle of Black-snake, and buried in the skull of
+the unfortunate man. He received several blows before he fell, uttering
+the exclamation "hugh," each time. The Indians placed him on the grass to
+die, where the backwoodsman who told me the story, saw him after the lapse
+of two hours, and life was not then extinct,--with such tenacity does it
+cling to the body of an Indian. The scalping knife was at length passed
+across his throat, and thus ended the scene.
+
+From Sandusky city, in Huron county, I passed into Sandusky county, and
+from thence through Seneca county. These three counties are entirely
+woodlands, with the exception of a few small prairies which lay eastward
+of my course. The land is generally fertile. Some light sandy soil is
+occasionally to be met with, which produces more quickly than the heavier
+soil, but not so abundantly. I saw in my travels through these counties a
+few persons who were ill of ague-fever, as it is here called. The
+prevalence of this disease is not to be attributed to a general
+unhealthiness of the climate, but can at all times be referred to
+localities.
+
+I next entered Crawford county, and crossed the Wyandot prairie, about
+seven miles in length, to Upper Sandusky. This was the first of those
+extensive meadows I had seen, and I was much pleased with its
+appearance--although this prairie is comparatively but small, yet its
+beauty cannot be surpassed; and the groves, and clusters of trees, _iles
+de bois_, with which it is interspersed, make it much resemble a beautiful
+domain.
+
+Attached to the Wyandot reserve (nine miles by sixteen) is that of the
+Delawares (three miles square). On reaching Little Sandusky--Kahama's
+curse on the town baptizers of America!--there are often five or six
+places named alike in one state: upper and lower, little and big, great
+and small--and invariably the same names that are given to towns in one
+State, are to be found in every other. Then their vile plagiarisms of
+European names causes a Babelonish confusion of ideas, enough to disturb
+the equanimity of a "grisly saint;" and, with all humility, I disclaim
+having any pretensions to that character. I have frequently heard a
+long-legged, sallow-looking backwoodsman talk of having come lately from
+Paris, or Mecca, when instead of meaning the capital of _La grande
+nation_, or the city of "the holy prophet," he spoke of some town
+containing a few hundred inhabitants, situated in the backwoods of
+Kentucky, or amidst the gloomy forests of Indiana. The Americans too speak
+in prospective, when they talk of great places; no doubt "calculating"
+that, one day, all the mighty productions of the old world will be
+surpassed by their ingenuity and perseverance.
+
+I reached Little Sandusky about one o'clock in the day, and there learned
+that there was a treaty being holden with the Delawares--accordingly I
+repaired to the council ground. On a mat, under the shade of seven large
+elm trees, which in more prosperous times had waved over the war-like
+ancestors of this unfortunate people, were seated three old sachems, the
+principal of the tribe. The oldest appeared to be nearly eighty years of
+age, the next about seventy, and the last about fifty. On a chair to the
+right of the Indians was seated a young "half-breed" chief, the son of one
+of the sachems by a white squaw; and on their left, seated on another
+chair, a Delaware dressed in the costume of the whites. This young man was
+in the pay of the States, and acted as interpreter--he interpreting into
+and from the Delaware language, and a gentleman of the mission (a Captain
+Walker) into and from the Wyandot. At a table opposite the Indians were
+seated the commissioners.
+
+The Lenni Lenape, or Delawares, as they were called by the English, from
+the circumstance of their holding their great "Council-fire" on the banks
+of the Delaware river, were once the most powerful of the several tribes
+that spoke the Delaware tongue, and possessed an immense tract of country
+east of the Alleghany mountains. This unfortunate people had been driven
+from place to place, until at last they were obliged to accept of an
+asylum from the Wyandot, whom they call their uncle; and now are forced to
+sell this, and go beyond the Mississippi. To a reflecting mind, the scene
+was touching beyond description. Here was the sad remnant of a great
+nation, who having been forced back from the original country of their
+fathers, by successive acts of rapacity, are now compelled to enter into
+a compact which obliges them, half civilized as they are, to return to the
+forest. The case is this,--the white people, or rather Jackson and the
+southerns, say, that the Indians "retard improvement"--precisely in the
+same sense that a brigand, when he robs a traveller, might say, that the
+traveller retarded improvement--that is, retarded _his_ improvement,
+inasmuch as he had in his pocket, what would improve the condition of the
+brigand. The Indians have cultivated farms, and valuable tracts of land,
+and no doubt it will improve the condition of the whites, to get
+possession of those farms and rich lands, for _one tenth of their saleable
+value_. The profits that have accrued to the United States from the
+systematic plunder of the Indians, are immense, and a great portion of the
+national debt has been liquidated by this dishonest means.[2]
+
+The reserve of the Delawares contained nine square miles, or 5760 acres.
+For this it was agreed at the treaty, that they should be paid 6000
+dollars, and the value of the improvements, which I conceived to be a fair
+bargain. I was not then aware of the practice pursued by the government,
+of making deductions, under various pretences, from the purchase-money,
+until the unfortunate Indian is left scarcely anything in lieu of his
+lands, and says, that "the justice of the white man is not like the
+justice of the red man," and that he cannot understand the honesty of his
+Christian brother. The following extract, taken from the New York
+American, will give some insight into the mode of dealing with the
+Indians.
+
+"_The last of the Ottowas_.--Maumee Bay, Ohio, Sept. 3, 1831.--Mr. James
+B. Gardiner has concluded a very important treaty at Maumee Bay, in
+Michigan, for a cession of all the lands owned by the Ottowa Indians in
+Ohio, about 50,000 acres. It was attended with more labour and greater
+difficulties than any other treaty made in this state: it was the last
+foothold which that savage, warlike, and hostile tribe held in their
+ancient dominion. The conditions of this treaty are very similar to those
+treaties of Lewistown and Wapaghkenetta, _with this exception_, that the
+surplus avails of their lands, _after deducting seventy cents per acre to
+indemnify the government_, are to be appropriated for paying the debts of
+their nation, which amount to about 20,000 dollars." [Query, what are
+those debts?--could they be the amount of _presents_ made them on former
+occasions?] "The balance, _if any_, accrues to the tribe. Seventy
+thousand acres of land are granted to them west of the Mississippi.[3] The
+Ottowas are the most depredating, drunken, and ferocious in Ohio. The
+reservations ceded by them are very valuable, and those on the Miami of
+the lake embrace some of the best mill privileges in the State."
+
+The Delawares were too few (being but fifty-one in number) to contend the
+matter, and therefore accepted of the proposed terms. At the conclusion of
+the conference, the Commissioners told them that they should have a barrel
+of flour, with the beef that had been killed for the occasion, which was
+received with "Yo-ha!--Yo-ha!" They then said, laughing, "that they hoped
+their father would allow them a little milk," meaning whisky, which was
+accordingly granted. They drank of this modern Lethe and forgot for a time
+their misfortunes.
+
+On the Osage fork of the Merrimack river, there are two settlements of the
+Delawares, to the neighbourhood of which these Indians intend to remove.
+
+Near the Delaware reserve, I fell in with a young Indian, apparently about
+twenty years of age, and we journeyed together for several miles through
+the forest. He spoke English fluently, and conformed as far as his taste
+would permit him, to the habits of the whites. His dress consisted of a
+blue frock coat, blue cloth leggings, moccasins, a shawl tied about the
+head, and a red sash round his waste. In conversation, I asked him if he
+were not a Cayuga--: "No," says he, "an Oneida," placing both his hands on
+his breast--"a _clear_ Oneida." I could not help smiling at his national
+pride;--yet this is man: in every country and condition he is proud of his
+descent, and loves the race to which he belongs. This Oneida was a widow's
+son. He had sixteen acres of cleared land, which, with occasional
+assistance, he cultivated himself. When the produce was sold, he divided
+the proceeds with his mother, and then set out, and travelled until his
+funds were exhausted. He had just then returned from a tour to New York
+and Philadelphia, and had visited almost every city in the Union. As
+Guedeldk--that was the Oneida's name--and I were rambling along, we met a
+negro who was journeying in great haste--he stopped to inquire if we had
+seen that day, or the day previous, any nigger-woman going towards the
+lake. I had passed the day before two waggon loads of negros, which were
+being transported, by the state, to Canada. A local law prohibits the
+settlement of people of colour within the state of Ohio, which was now put
+in force, although it had remained dormant for many years.
+
+There was much hardship in the case of this poor fellow. He had left his
+family at Cincinnati, and had gone to work on the canal some eighteen or
+twenty miles distant. He had been absent about a week; and on his return
+he found his house empty, and was informed that his wife and children had
+been seized, and transported to Canada. The enforcement of this law has
+been since abandoned; and I must say, although the law itself is at
+variance with the Constitution of the United States, which is paramount to
+all other laws, that its abandonment is due entirely to the good feeling
+of the people of Ohio, who exclaimed loudly against the cruelty of the
+measure.
+
+FOOTNOTES:
+
+[1] De Witt Clinton, speaking of the Iroquois, or five nations, says,
+"Their exterior relations, general interests, and national affairs, were
+conducted and superintended by a great council, assembled annually in
+Onondaga, the central canton, composed of the chiefs of each republic;
+and eighty sachems were frequently convened at this national assembly. It
+took cognizance of the great questions of war and peace; of the affairs
+of the tributary nations, and their negotiations with the French and
+English colonies. All their proceedings were conducted with great
+deliberation, and were distinguished for order, decorum, and solemnity.
+In eloquence, in dignity, and in all the characteristics of profound
+policy, they surpassed the assembly of feudal barons, and perhaps were
+not inferior to the great Amphictyonic Council of Greece."
+
+[2]
+                                              Dollars.
+
+Amount of lands sold up to the year 1824     44,229,837
+
+173,176,606 acres unsold, estimated at one
+dollar per acre. The Congress price was
+then two dollars, but was subsequently
+reduced to a dollar and a quarter, and
+is now 75 cents.                            173,176,606
+                                            -----------
+                                            217,406,443
+
+Deduct value of annuities, expenses of
+surveying, &c. &c., being the amount of
+purchase-money paid for same                  4,243,632
+                                            -----------
+
+Profit arising to the United States from
+purchases of land from the Indians          213,162,811
+                                            -----------
+Allowing 480 cents, to the pound sterling, the gross
+          profit is L44,408,918. 19_s_. 2_d_.
+
+[3] There are lands west of the Mississippi, which would be dear at ten
+cents per hundred acres.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER III.
+
+
+From Little Sandusky, I passed through Marion, in Marion county. This
+town, like most others in Ohio, is advancing rapidly, and has at present
+several good brick buildings. The clap-boarded frame houses, which compose
+the great mass of habitations in the towns throughout the western country,
+in general have a neat appearance. I here saw gazetted three divorces, all
+of which had been granted on the applications of the wives. One, on the
+ground of the husband's absenting himself for one year: another, on
+account of a blow having been given: and the third for general neglect.
+There are few instances of a woman's being refused a divorce in the
+western country, as dislike is very generally--and very
+rationally--supposed to constitute a sufficient reason for granting the
+ladies their freedom.
+
+I crossed Delaware county into Franklin county, where Columbus, the
+capital of the state, is situated. The roads from the lake to this city,
+with few exceptions, passed through woodlands, and the country is but
+thinly settled. Beech, oak, elm, hickory, walnut, white-oak, ash, &c.
+compose the bulk of the forest trees; and in the bottom lands, enormous
+sycamores are to be seen stretching their white arms almost to the very
+clouds. The land is of various denominations, but in general may be termed
+fertile.
+
+Columbus, the capital of Ohio, is seated on the Scioto river, which is
+navigable for keel and flat boats, and small craft, almost to its source;
+and by means of a portage of about four miles, to Sandusky river, which
+flows into lake Erie, a convenient communication is established between
+the lakes, and the great western waters. The town is well laid out. The
+streets are wide; and the court-house, town-hall, and public offices, are
+built of brick. There are some good taverns here, and the tables d'hotes
+are well and abundantly supplied.
+
+There are land offices in every county seat, in which maps and plans of
+the county are kept. On these, the disposable tracts of country are
+distinguished from those which have been disposed of. The purchaser pays
+one fourth of the purchase money, for which he gets a receipt,--this
+constitutes his title, until, on paying the residue, he receives a regular
+title deed. He may however pay the full amount at once, and receive a
+discount of, I believe, eight per cent. A township comprises thirty-six
+square miles (twenty three thousand and forty acres) in sections of six
+hundred and forty acres each, which are subdivided, to accommodate
+purchasers, into quarter sections, or lots of a hundred and sixty acres.
+The sixteenth section is not sold, but reserved for the support of the
+poor, for education, and other public uses. There is no provision made in
+this, or any other state, for the ministers of religion, which is found to
+be highly beneficial to the interests of practical Christianity. The
+congress price of land has lately been reduced from a dollar and a quarter
+per acre, to seventy-five cents.
+
+Ohio averages 184 miles in extent, from north to south, and 220 miles from
+east to west. Area, 40,000 square miles, or 25,600,000 acres. The
+population in 1790, was 3000; in 1800, 45,365; in 1810, 230,760; and in
+1820, 581,434. White males, 300,609; white females, 275,955; free people
+of colour, 4723; militia in 1821, 83,247. The last census, taken in 1830,
+makes the population 937,679.
+
+Having no more Indian reserves to visit, I took the stage, and rumbled
+over corduroys, republicans, stumps, and ruts, until my ribs were
+literally sore, through London, Xenia, and Lebanon, to Cincinnati.
+
+At Lebanon there is a large community of the shaking Quakers. They have
+establishments also in Mason county, and at Covington, in Kentucky: their
+tenets are strictly Scriptural. They contend, that confessing their sins
+to one another, is necessary to a state of perfection; that the church of
+Christ ought to have all things in common; that none of the members of
+this church ought to cohabit, but be literally virgins; and that to dance
+and be merry is their duty, which part of their doctrines they take from
+the thirty-first chapter of Jeremiah.
+
+Their ceremonies are as follows:--The men sit on the left hand, squatting
+on the floor, with their knees up, and their hands clasped round them.
+Opposite, in the same posture, sit the women, whose appearance is most
+cadaverous and sepulchral, dressed in the Quaker costume. After sitting
+for some time in this hatching position, they all rise and sing a canting
+sort of hymn, during which the women keep time by elevating themselves on
+their toes. After the singing has ceased, a discourse is delivered by one
+of the elders; which being ended, the men pull off their coats and
+waistcoats. All being prepared, one of the brethren steps forward to the
+centre of the room, and in a loud voice, gives out a tune, beating time
+with his foot, and singing _lal lal la, lal lal la_, &c., being joined by
+the whole group, all jumping as high as possible, clapping their hands,
+and at intervals twirling round,--but making rather ungraceful
+_pirouettes_: this exercise they continue until they are completely
+exhausted. In their ceremonials they much resemble the howling Dervishes
+of the Moslems, whom they far surpass in fanaticism.
+
+Within about ten miles of Cincinnati we took up an old doctor, who was
+going to that city for the purpose of procuring a warrant against one of
+his neighbours, who, he had reason to believe, was concerned in the
+kidnapping of a free negro the night before. This is by no means an
+uncommon occurrence in the free states bordering the great rivers. The
+unfortunate black man, when captured, is hurried down to the river, thrust
+into a flat boat, and carried to the plantations. Such negros are not
+exposed for sale in the public bazaars, as that would be attended with
+risk; but a false bill of sale is made out, and the sale is effected to
+some planter before they reach Orleans. There is, of course, always
+collusion between the buyer and seller, and the man is disposed of,
+generally, for half his value.
+
+These are certainly atrocious acts; yet when a British subject reads such
+passages as the following, in the histories of East India government, he
+must feel that if they were ten times as infamous and numerous as they are
+in reality, it becomes not _him_ to censure them. Bolts, who was a judge
+of the mayor's court of Calcutta, says, in his "Considerations on India
+Affairs," page 194, "With every species of monopoly, therefore, every kind
+of oppression to manufacturers of all denominations throughout the whole
+country has daily increased; insomuch that weavers, for daring to sell
+their goods, and Dallals and Pykars, for having contributed to, or
+connived at, such sales, have by the _Company's agents,_ been frequently
+seized and imprisoned, confined in irons, fined considerable sums of
+money, flogged, and deprived, in the most ignominious manner, of what they
+esteem most valuable, their castes. Weavers also, upon their inability to
+perform such agreements as have been _forced from them by the Company's
+agents_, universally known in Bengal by the name of _Mutchulcahs_, have
+had their goods seized and sold on the spot, to make good the deficiency:
+and the winders of raw silk, called _Nagaards_, have been treated also
+with such injustice, that instances have been known of their cutting off
+their thumbs, to prevent their being forced to wind silk. This last kind
+of workmen were pursued with such rigour, during Lord Clive's late
+government in Bengal, from a zeal for _increasing the Company's
+investment_ of raw silk, that the most sacred laws of society were
+atrociously violated; for it was _a common thing for the Company's
+scapoys_ to be sent by force of arms to break open the houses of the
+Armenian merchants established at Sydabad (who have from time immemorial
+been largely concerned in the silk trade), and forcibly take the
+_Nagaards_ from their work, and carry them away to the English factory."
+
+As we approached Cincinnati the number of farms, and the extent of
+cultivated country, indicated the comparative magnitude of that city.
+Fields in this country have nothing like the rich appearance of those in
+England and Ireland, being generally filled with half-rotten stumps,
+scattered here and there among the growing corn, producing a most
+disagreeable effect. Then, instead of the fragrant quickset hedge, there
+is a "worm fence"--the rudest description of barrier known in the
+country--which consists simply of bars, about eight or nine feet in
+length, laid zig-zag on each other alternately: the improvement on this,
+and the _ne plus ultra_ in the idea of a west country farmer, is what is
+termed a "post and rail fence." This denomination of fence is to be seen
+sometimes in the vicinity of the larger towns, and is constructed of posts
+six feet in length, sunk in the ground to the depth of about a foot, and
+at eight or ten feet distance; the rails are then laid into mortises cut
+into the posts, at intervals of about thirteen or fourteen inches, which
+completes the work.
+
+Cincinnati is built on a bend of the Ohio river, which takes here a
+semicircular form, and runs nearly west; it afterwards flows in a more
+southerly direction. A complete chain of hills, sweeping from one point of
+the bend round to the other, encloses the city in a sort of amphitheatre.
+The houses are mostly brick, and the streets all paved. There are several
+spacious and handsome market houses, which on market days are stocked with
+all kinds of provisions--indeed I think the market of Cincinnati is very
+nearly the best supplied in the United States. There are many respectable
+public buildings here, such as a court-house, theatre, bazaar, (built by
+Mrs. Trollope, but the speculation failed), and divers churches, in which
+you may see well-dressed women, and hear orthodox, heterodox, and every
+other species of doctrine, promulgated and enforced by strength of lungs,
+and length of argument, with pulpit-drum accompaniment, and all other
+requisites _ad captandum vulgus_.
+
+The city stands on two plains: one called the bottom, extends about 260
+yards back from the river, and is three miles in length, from Deer Creek
+to Mill Creek; the other is fifty feet higher than the first, and is
+called the Hill; this extends back about a mile. The bottom is sixty-five
+feet above low water mark. In 1815 the population was estimated at 6000,
+and at present it is supposed to be upwards of 25,000 souls. By means of
+the Dayton canal, which runs from that town nearly parallel with the "Big
+Miami" river, a very extensive trade, for all kinds of produce, is
+established with the back country. Steamers are constantly arriving at,
+and departing from the wharf, on their passage up and down the river. This
+is one of the many examples to be met with in the western country, of
+towns springing into importance within the memory of comparatively young
+men--a log-house is still standing, which is shewn as the first habitation
+built by the backwoodsman, who squatted in the forest where now stands a
+handsome and flourishing city.
+
+On arriving at Cincinnati, I learned that my friend T---- had taken up his
+abode at a farm-house a few miles from town, where I accordingly repaired,
+and found him in good health, and initiated into all the manners, habits,
+customs, and diversions of the natives. Farming people in Ohio work hard.
+The women have no sinecures, being occupied the greater part of the day in
+cooking; as they breakfast at eight, dine at half-past twelve, and sup at
+six, and at each of these meals, meat, and other cooked dishes are served
+up. In farming they co-operate with each other. When a farmer wishes to
+have his corn husked, he rides round to his neighbours and informs them of
+his intention. An invitation of this kind was once given in my presence.
+The farmer entered the house, sat down, and after the customary
+compliments were passed, in the usual laconic style, the following
+dialogue took place. "I guess I'll husk my corn to-morrow
+afternoon."--"You've a mighty heap this year."--"Considerable of corn."
+The host at length said, "Well, I guess we'll be along"--and the matter
+was arranged. All these gatherings are under the denomination of
+"frolics"--such as "corn-husking frolic," "apple-cutting frolic,"
+"quilting frolic," &c.
+
+Being somewhat curious in respect to national amusements, I attended a
+"corn-husking frolic" in the neighbourhood of Cincinnati. The corn was
+heaped up into a sort of hillock close by the granary, on which the young
+"Ohiohians" and "buck-eyes"--the lasses of Ohio are called
+"buck-eyes"--seated themselves in pairs; while the old wives, and old
+farmers were posted around, doing little, but talking much. Now the laws
+of "corn-husking frolics" ordain, that for each red ear that a youth
+finds, he is entitled to exact a kiss from his partner. There were two or
+three young Irishmen in the group, and I could observe the rogues kissing
+half-a-dozen times on the same red ears. Each of them laid a red-ear close
+by him, and after every two or three he'd husk, up he'd hold the
+redoubtable red-ear to the astonished eyes of the giggling lass who sate
+beside him, and most unrelentingly inflict the penalty. The "gude wives"
+marvelled much at the unprecedented number of red-ears which that lot of
+corn contained: by-and-by, they thought it "a kind of curious" that the
+Irishmen should find so many of them--at length, the cheat was discovered,
+amidst roars of laughter. The old farmers said the lads were "wide
+awake," and the "buck-eyes" declared that there was no being up to the
+plaguy Irishmen "no how," for they were always sure to have every thing
+their own way. But the mischief of it was, the young Americans took the
+hint, and the poor "buck-eyes" got nothing like fair play for the
+remainder of that evening. All agreed that there was more laughing, and
+more kissing done at that, than had been known at any corn-husking frolic
+since "the Declaration."
+
+The farmers of Ohio are a class of people about equivalent to our second
+and third rate farmer, inasmuch as they work themselves, but possessing
+infinitely more independence in their character and deportment. Every
+white male, who is a citizen of the United States, and has resided one
+year in the state, and paid taxes, has a vote. The members of the
+legislature are elected annually, and those of the senate biennially; half
+of the members of the latter branch vacating their seats every year. The
+representatives, in addition to the qualifications necessary to the
+elector, must be twenty-five years of age; and the senators must have
+resided in the state two years, and must be thirty years of age. The
+governor must be thirty years of age, an inhabitant of the state four
+years, and a citizen of the United States twelve years,--he is eligible
+only for six years in eight.
+
+Notwithstanding the numerous religious sects that are to be found in this
+country, there is nothing like sectarian animosity prevailing. This is to
+be attributed to the ministers of religion being paid as they deserve, and
+no one class of people being taxed to support the religious tenets of
+another.
+
+The farmers of this state are by no means religious, in a doctrinal sense;
+on the contrary, they appear indifferent on matters of this nature. The
+girls _sometimes_ go to church, which here, as in all Christian countries,
+is equivalent to the bazaars of Smyrna and Bagdad; and as the girls go,
+their "dads" must pay the parson. The Methodists are very zealous, and
+have frequent "revivals" and "camp-meetings." I was at two of the latter
+assemblages, one in Kentucky, and the other in Ohio. I shall endeavour to
+convey some idea of this extraordinary species of religious festival.
+
+To the right of Cheriot, which lies in a westerly direction, about ten
+miles from Cincinnati, under the shade of tall oak and elm trees, the camp
+was pitched in a quadrangular form. Three sides were occupied by tents for
+the congregation, and the fourth by booths for the preachers. A little in
+advance before the booths was erected a platform for the performing
+preacher, and at the foot of this, inclosed by forms, was a species of
+sanctuary, called "the penitents' pen." People of every denomination might
+be seen here, allured by various motives. The girls, dressed in all
+colours of the rainbow, congregated to display their persons and
+costumes; the young men came to see the girls, and considered it a sort of
+"frolic;" and the old women, induced by fanaticism, and other motives,
+assembled in large numbers, and waited with patience for the proper season
+of repentance. At the intervals between the "preachments," the young
+married and unmarried women promenaded round the tents, and their smiling
+faces formed a striking contrast to the demure countenances of their more
+experienced sisters, who, according to their age or temperament, descanted
+on the folly, or condemned the sinfulness of such conduct. Some of those
+old dames, I was informed, were decoy birds, who shared the profits with
+the preachers, and attended all the "camp-meetings" in the country.
+
+The psalmodies were performed in the true Yankee style of nasal-melody,
+and at proper and seasonable intervals the preachings were delivered. The
+preachers managed their tones and discourses admirably, and certainly
+displayed a good deal of tact in their calling. They use the most
+extravagant gestures--astounding bellowings--a canting hypocritical
+whine--slow and solemn, although by no means _musical_ intonations, and
+the _et ceteras_ that complete the qualifications of a regular
+camp-meeting methodist parson. During the exhortations the brothers and
+sisters were calling out--Bless God! glory! glory! amen! God grant! Jesus!
+&c.
+
+At the adjournment for dinner, a knowing-looking gentleman was appointed
+to deliver an admonition. I admired this person much for the ingenuity he
+displayed in introducing the subject of collection, and the religious
+obligation of each and every individual to contribute largely to the
+support of the preacher and his brothers of the vineyard. He set forth the
+respectability of the county, as evinced by former contributions, and
+thence inferred, most logically, that the continuance of that respectable
+character depended on the amount of that day's collection. A conversation
+took place behind me, during this part of the preacher's exhortation,
+between three young farmers, which, as being characteristic, I shall
+repeat.
+
+"The old man is wide awake, I guess."
+
+"I reckon he knows a thing or two."
+
+"I calculate he's been on board a flat afore now."
+
+"Yes, I guess a Yankee 'd find it damned hard to sell him _hickory_
+nutmegs."
+
+"It'd take a pretty smart man to poke it on to a parson any how."
+
+"I guess'd it'd come to dollars and cents in the end."
+
+After sunset the place was lighted up by beacon fires and candles, and the
+scene seemed to be changing to one of more deep and awful interest. About
+nine o'clock the preachers began to rally their forces--the candles were
+snuffed--fuel was added to the fires--clean straw was shook in the
+"penitents' pen"--and every movement "gave dreadful note of preparation."
+At length the hour was sounded, and the faithful forthwith assembled. A
+chosen leader commenced to harangue--he bellowed--he roared--he whined--he
+shouted until he became actually hoarse, and the perspiration rolled down
+his face. Now, the faithful seemed to take the infection, and as if
+overcome by their excited feelings, flung themselves headlong on the straw
+into the penitents' pen--the old dames leading the way. The preachers, to
+the number of a dozen, gave a loud shout and rushed into the thick of the
+penitents. A scene now ensued that beggars all description. About twenty
+women, young and old, were lying in every direction and position, with
+caps and without caps, screeching, bawling, and kicking in hysterics, and
+profaning the name of Jesus. The preachers, on their knees amongst them,
+were with Stentorian voices exhorting them to call louder and louder on
+the Lord, until he came upon them; whilst their _attachees,_ with
+turned-up eyes and smiling countenances, were chanting hymns and shaking
+hands with the multitude. Some would now and then give a hearty laugh,
+which is an indication of superior grace, and is called "the holy laugh."
+The scene altogether was highly entertaining--penitents, parsons, caps,
+combs, and straw, jumbled in one heterogeneous mass, lay heaving on the
+ground, and formed at this juncture a grouping that might be done justice
+to by the pencil of Hogarth, or the pen of the author of Hudibras; but of
+which I fear an inferior pen or pencil must fail in conveying an adequate
+idea.
+
+The women were at length carried off, fainting, by their friends, and the
+preachers began to prepare for another scene. From the time of those
+faintings, the "new birth" is dated, which means a spiritual resurrection
+or revival.
+
+The scene that followed appeared to be a representation of "the Last
+Supper." The preachers assembled round a table, and acted as disciples,
+whilst one of them, the leader, presided. The bread was consecrated,
+divided and eaten--the wine served much after the same manner. The
+faithful, brothers and sisters, were now called upon to partake of the
+Sacrament--proper warning, however, being given to the gentlemen, that
+when the wine was handed to them, they were not to take a _drink_, as that
+was quite unnecessary, as a small sup would answer every purpose. One
+gentleman seemed to have forgotten this hint, and attempted to take rather
+more than a sup; but he was prevented by the administering preacher
+snatching the goblet from him with both hands. Many said they were obliged
+to substitute _brandy and water_ for wine; but for this fact I cannot
+vouch. Another straw-tumbling scene now began; and, as if by way of
+variety, the inmates of five or six tents got up similar scenes among
+themselves. The preachers left the field to join the tenters; and, if
+possible, surpassed their previous exhibitions. The women were
+occasionally making confessions, _pro bono publico_, when sundry
+"backslidings" were acknowledged for the edification of the multitude. We
+left the camp about two o'clock in the morning, when these poor fanatics
+were still in full cry.
+
+At Hell Town, near this place, there was an officer's muster held about
+this time. Every citizen exercising the elective franchise is also
+eligible to serve in the militia. There are two general musters held every
+year in each county, and several company meetings. Previous to the general
+muster there is an officer's muster, when the captains and subalterns are
+put through their exercise by the field officers. At this muster, which I
+attended, the superior officers in command certainly appeared to be
+sufficiently conversant with tactics, and explained the rationale of each
+movement in a clear and concise manner; but the captains and subalterns
+went through their exercise somewhat in the manner of the yeomen of the
+Green Island. When the gentlemen were placed in line, and attention was
+commanded, the General turned round to converse with his coadjutors--no
+sooner had he done this than about twenty heroes squatted _a l'Indien;_
+no doubt deeming it more consistent, the day being warm, to sit than
+stand. On the commander observing this movement, which he seemed to think
+quite unmilitary, he remonstrated--the warriors arose; but, alas! the just
+man _falls_ seven times a day, and the militia officers of Hamilton county
+seemed to think it not derogatory to their characters to _squat_ five or
+six. The offence was repeated several times, and as often censured. They
+wheeled into battalions, and out of battalions, in most glorious
+disorder--their _straight_ lines were _zig-zag._ In marching abreast, they
+came to a fence next the road--the tavern was opposite, and the temptation
+too great to be resisted--a number threw down their muskets--tumbled
+themselves over the fence, and rushed into the bar-room to refresh! An
+American's heart sickens at restraint, and nothing but necessity will
+oblige him to observe discipline.
+
+The question naturally arises, how would these forces resist the finely
+disciplined troops of Europe? The answer is short: If the Americans would
+consent to fight _a bataille rangee_ on one of the prairies of Illinois,
+undoubtedly the disciplined troops would prevail; but as neither their
+experience nor inclination is likely to lead them into such circumstances,
+my opinion is, that send the finest army Europe can produce into this
+country, in six months, the forests, swamps, and deadly rifle, united,
+will annihilate it--and let it be remembered, that at the battle of New
+Orleans, there were between two and three thousand British slain, and
+there were only twelve Americans killed, and perhaps double that number
+wounded. In patriotism and personal courage, the Americans are certainly
+not inferior to the people of any nation.
+
+There had been lately throughout the States a good deal of excitement
+produced by an attempt, made by the Presbyterians, to stop the mails on
+the sabbath. This party is headed by a Doctor Ely, of Philadelphia, a
+would-be "lord spiritual," and they made this merely as a trial of
+strength, preparatory to some other measures calculated to lead to a
+church establishment. Their designs, however, have been detected, and
+measures accordingly taken to resist them. At a meeting at which I was
+present at Cincinnati, the people were most enthusiastic, and some very
+strong resolutions were passed, expressive of their abhorrence of this
+attempt to violate the constitution of America.
+
+Good farms within about three or four miles of Cincinnati, one-third
+cleared, are sold at from thirty to fifty dollars per acre. Cows sell at
+from ten to twenty dollars. Horses, at from twenty-five to seventy-five
+and one hundred dollars. Sheep from two to three dollars. There are some
+tolerable flocks of sheep throughout this state, but they are of little
+value beyond the price of the wool, a most unaccountable antipathy to
+mutton existing among the inhabitants.
+
+Whilst on the banks of Lake Erie, having heard a great deal of
+conversation about the "lake fever," I made several inquiries from the
+inhabitants on that subject, the result of which confirmed me in the
+opinion, that the shores of the lakes are quite as healthy as any other
+part of the country, and that here, as elsewhere, the disease arises from
+stagnant pools, swamps, and masses of decayed animal and vegetable matter,
+which are allowed to remain and accumulate in the vicinity of settlements.
+When at New York, I met an old and wealthy farmer, who was himself,
+although eighty years of age, in the enjoyment of rude health. He informed
+me that he had resided in Canada, on the shores of Lake Erie, for the last
+fifty years, and that neither he nor any one of his family had ever been
+afflicted with fever of any description. The district in which he lived,
+was entirely free from local nuisances, and the inhabitants he
+represented as being as healthy as any in the United States.
+
+My observations, so far, lead me to conclude, that this climate agrees
+fully as well with Europeans as with the natives, indeed that the
+susceptibility to fever and ague is greater in the natives than in
+Europeans of good habits. The cause I conceive to be this: the early
+settlers had to encounter swamps of the most pestilential description, and
+dense forests through which the sun's rays had never penetrated, and which
+industry and cultivation have since made in a great measure to disappear.
+They notoriously suffered much from the ravages of malaria, and such as
+survived the baleful effects of this disease, escaped with impaired
+constitutions. Now this susceptibility to intermittent fever, appears to
+me to have been transmitted to their descendants, and to act as the
+predisposing cause. I have seen English and Irish people who have been in
+the country upwards of thirty years, who look just as you would expect to
+find persons of their age at home.
+
+There are situations evidently unhealthy, such as river bottoms, and the
+vicinity of creeks. The soil in those situations is alluvial, and its
+extreme fertility often induces unfortunate people to reside in them. The
+appearance of those persons in general is truly wretched.
+
+The women here, although they live as long as those in the old country,
+yet they fade much sooner, and, with few exceptions, have bad teeth.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER IV.
+
+
+Having decided on visiting New Harmony, in Indiana, where our friend B----
+had been for some time enjoying the delights of sylvan life, and the
+refinements of backwoods-society, T---- and I purchased a horse, and
+Dearborne, a species of light waggon used in this country for travelling.
+We furnished ourselves with a small axe, hunting knives, and all things
+necessary for encamping when occasion required, and so set out about the
+beginning of September.
+
+We crossed the Big-Miami river, and proceeded by a tolerable road, and
+some good farms, to Lawrenceburg, a handsome town on the Ohio, within a
+mile of the outlet of the Miami. From thence we drove on towards
+Wilmington; but our horse becoming jaded, we found it expedient to "camp
+out," within some miles of that town. Next morning we passed through
+Wilmington, but lost the direct track through the forest, and took the
+road to Versailles, which lay in a more northerly direction than the route
+we had proposed to ourselves. This road was one of those newly cut through
+the forest, and there frequently occurred intervals of five or six miles
+between the settlements; and of the road itself, a tolerably correct idea
+may be formed by noting the stipulations made with the contractors, which
+are solely that the roads shall be of a certain width, and that no stump
+shall be left projecting more than _fifteen inches_ above the ground.
+
+On the night of the second day we reached the vicinity of Versailles, and
+put up at the residence of a backwoodsman--a fine looking fellow, with a
+particularly ugly _squaw_. He had come from Kentucky five years
+before--sat down in the forest--"built him" a log-house--wielded his axe
+to the tune of "The Hunters of Kentucky," and had now eighteen acres of
+cleared land, and all the _et ceteras_ of a farm. We supped off
+venison-steaks and stewed squirrel. Our host told us that there was "a
+pretty smart chance of deer" in the neighbourhood, and that when he first
+"located," "there was a small sprinkling of _baar_" (bear), but that at
+present nothing of the kind was to be seen. There was very little comfort
+in the appearance of this establishment; yet the good dame had a
+side-saddle, hung on a peg in one of the apartments, which would not have
+disgraced the lady of an Irish squireen. This appears to be an article of
+great moment in the estimation of West-country ladies, and when nothing
+else about the house is even tolerable, the side-saddle is of the most
+fashionable pattern.
+
+From Versailles, we took the track to Vernon, through a rugged and swampy
+road, it having rained the night before. The country is hilly, and
+interspersed with runs, which are crossed with some difficulty, the
+descents and ascents being very considerable. The stumps, "corduroys"
+(rails laid horizontally across the road where the ground is marshy)
+swamps, and "republicans," (projecting roots of trees, so called from the
+stubborn tenacity with which they adhere to the ground, it being almost
+impossible to grub them up), rendered the difficulty of traversing this
+forest so great, that notwithstanding our utmost exertions we were unable
+to make more than sixteen miles from sunrise to sunset, when, both the
+horse and ourselves being completely exhausted, we halted until morning. I
+was awoke at sunrise by a "white-billed woodpecker," which was making the
+woods ring by the rattling of its bill against a tree. This is a large
+handsome bird, (the _picus principalis_ of Linnaeus), it is sometimes
+called here the wood-cock. Pigeons, squirrels, and turtle-doves abound in
+all these forests, and my friend being an expert gunner, we had always
+plenty of game for dinner. The morning was still grey when we set forward.
+
+We forded the Muskakituck river at Vernon, which stands on its head
+waters, and is a country seat. We then directed our course to Brownstown,
+on the east branch of White river. We found the roads still bad until we
+came within about ten miles of that place. There the country began to
+assume a more cultivated appearance, and the roads became tolerably good,
+being made through a sandy or gravelly district. In the neighbourhood of
+Brownstown there are some rich lands, and from that to Salem, a distance
+of twenty-two miles, we were much pleased with the country. We had been
+hitherto journeying through dense forests, and except when we came to a
+small town, could never see more than about ten yards on either side. All
+through Indiana the peaches were in great abundance this year, and such
+was the weight of fruit the trees had to sustain, that the branches were
+invariably broken where not propped.
+
+From Salem we took a westward track by Orleans to Hindostan, crossed the
+east branch of White river, and passed through Washington. At a short
+distance from this town, we had to cross White river again, near the west
+branch, which is much larger than the east branch. We attempted to ford
+it, and had got into the middle of the stream before we discovered that
+the bottom was quicksands. The horse was scared at the footing,--he
+plunged and broke the traces; however, after a tolerable wetting, we
+succeeded in getting safe out. A little above the place where we made the
+attempt, we found there was a ferry-flat. The ferryman considered our
+attempt as dangerous, for had we gone much further into the stream we
+should have shot into the quicksands in the deep current. This day the
+fates were most unpropitious to us; and had we had, like Socrates, a
+familiar demon at our elbow, he most assuredly would have warned us not
+to proceed. We had no sooner got into the ferry-flat, and pushed off from
+shore, than the horse tumbled overboard, carriage and all, and was with
+difficulty saved from drowning.
+
+We passed through Petersburg to Princeton; but having lost the track, and
+got into several _culs de sacs_, an occurrence which is by no means
+pleasant--as in this case you are unable to turn the carriage, and have no
+alternative but cutting down one or two small trees in order to effect a
+passage. After a great deal of danger and difficulty, we succeeded in
+returning on the true bridle-path, and arrived about ten at night in a
+small village, through which we had passed three hours before. The gloom
+and pitchy darkness of an American forest at night, cannot be conceived by
+the inhabitants of an open country, and the traversing a narrow path
+interspersed with stumps and logs is both fatiguing and dangerous. Our
+horse seemed so well aware of this danger, that whenever the night set
+in, he could not be induced to move, unless one of us walked a little in
+advance before him, when he would rest his nose on our arm and then
+proceed. We crossed the Potoka to Princeton, a neat town, surrounded by a
+fast settling country, and so on to Harmony.
+
+New Harmony is seated on the banks of the Wabash; and following the
+sinuosities of that river, it is distant sixty-four or five miles from the
+Ohio, but over land, not more than seventeen. This settlement was
+purchased by Messrs. Mac Clure and Owen from Mr. Rapp, in the year 1823.
+The Rappites had been in possession of the place for six years, during
+which they had erected several large brick buildings of a public nature,
+and sundry smaller ones as residences, and had cultivated a considerable
+quantity of land in the immediate vicinity of the town. Mr. Owen intended
+to have established here a community of union and mutual co-operation;
+but, from a too great confidence in the power of the system which he
+advocates, to _reform_ character, he has been necessitated to abandon that
+design at present.
+
+Harmony must have been certainly a desirable residence when it was the
+abode of the many literary and scientific characters who composed a part
+of that short-lived community. A few of these still linger here, and may
+be seen stalking through the streets of Harmony, like Marius among the
+ruins of Carthage, deploring the moral desolation that now reigns in this
+once happy place.
+
+Le Seur, the naturalist, and fellow traveller of Peron, in his voyage to
+the Austral regions, is still here. The suavity of manners, and the
+scientific acquirements of this gentleman, command the friendship and
+esteem of all those who have the pleasure of his acquaintance. He has a
+large collection of specimens connected with natural history, which the
+western parts of this country yield in abundance. The advantages presented
+here for the indulgence of retired habits, form at present the only
+attractions sufficient to induce him to live out of _la belle France_.
+
+Mr. Thomas Say, of Philadelphia, who accompanied Major Long on his
+expedition to the Rocky Mountains, also resides here. He too is a recluse,
+and is now preparing a work on his favourite subject, natural history. His
+garden contains a tolerable collection of Mexican and other exotic plants.
+
+Harmony is built on the second bottom of the Wabash, and is perhaps half a
+mile from the river at low water, the first bottom being about that
+breadth. Mosquitos abound here, and are extremely troublesome. There are
+several orchards in the neighbourhood well stocked with apples, peaches,
+&c.; and the soil being rich alluvion, the farms are productive--so much
+as fifty dollars per acre is asked for cleared land, close to the town.
+There is a great scarcity of money here, as in most parts of Indiana, and
+trade is chiefly carried on by barter. Pork, lard, corn, bacon, beans,
+&c., being given, by the farmers, to the store-keepers, in exchange for
+dry goods, cutlery, crockery-ware, &c. The store-keepers either sell the
+produce they have thus collected to river-traders, or forward it to New
+Orleans on their own account.
+
+We made an excursion down the river in true Indian style. Our party,
+consisting of four, equipped in a suitable manner, the weather being then
+delightfully warm, having stowed on board a canoe plenty of provisions,
+paddled down the Wabash. The scenery on the banks of this river is
+picturesque. The foliage in some places springs from the water's edge,
+whilst at other points it recedes, leaving a bar of fine white sand. The
+breadth of the Wabash, at Harmony, is about 200 yards, and it divides
+frequently on its course to the Ohio, forming islands of various degrees
+of beauty and magnitude. On one of these, about six miles from Harmony,
+called the "Cut-off," we determined on encamping. Accordingly, we moored
+our canoe--pitched our tent--lighted our fire--bathed--and having
+acquired enormous appetites by exertion, commenced the very agreeable
+operation of demolishing our provisions. We roamed about that and an
+adjacent island, until evening, when we returned to regale. These islands
+are generally covered with "cane brakes," and low brush wood, which
+renders it difficult to effect a passage across them. Cotton-wood, beech,
+maple, hickory, and white oak, are the trees in greatest abundance.
+Spice-wood, sassafras, and dittany, are also plenty. Of these a decoction
+is made, which some of the woods-people prefer to tea; but it is not in
+general repute. The paw-paw tree (_annona triloba_) produces a fruit
+somewhat resembling in taste and shape the fig-banana, but certainly much
+inferior to that delicious fruit. We saw several deer in the woods, and
+some cranes upon the shore. With smoking, &c., we passed the evening, and
+then retired--not to bed, for we had none--but to a right good
+substitute, a few dry leaves strewn upon the ground--our heads covered by
+the tent, and at our feet a large fire, which we kept up the whole night.
+Thus circumstanced, we found it by no means disagreeable.
+
+We spent greater part of next day much after the manner of the preceding,
+and concluded that it would be highly irrational to shoot game, having
+plenty of provisions; yet I suspect our being too lazy to hunt, influenced
+us not a little in that philosophical decision.
+
+Whilst at Harmony, I collected some information relative to the failure of
+the community, and I shall here give a slight sketch of the result of my
+inquiries. I must observe that so many, and such conflicting statements,
+respecting public measures, I believe never were before made by a body of
+persons dwelling within limits so confined as those of Harmony. Some of
+the _ci-devant_ "communicants" call Robert Owen a fool, whilst others
+brand him with still more opprobrious epithets: and I never could get two
+of them to agree as to the primary causes of the failure of that
+community.
+
+The community was composed of a heterogeneous mass, collected together by
+public advertisement, which may be divided into three classes. The first
+class was composed of a number of well-educated persons, who occupied
+their time in eating and drinking--dressing and promenading--attending
+balls, and _improving the habits_ of society; and they may be termed the
+_aristocracy_ of this Utopian republic. The second class was composed of
+practical co-operators, who were well inclined to work, but who had no
+share, or voice, in the management of affairs. The third and last class
+was a body of theoretical philosophers--Stoics, Platonics, Pythagoreans,
+Epicureans, Peripatetics, and Cynics, who amused themselves in _striking
+out plans_--exposing the errors of those in operation--caricaturing--and
+turning the whole proceedings into ridicule.
+
+The second class, disliking the species of co-operation afforded them by
+the first class, naturally became dissatisfied with their inactivity--and
+the third class laughed at them both. Matters were in this state for some
+time, until Mr. Owen found the funds were completely exhausted. He then
+stated that the community should divide; and that he would furnish land,
+and all necessary materials, for operations, to such of them as wished to
+form a community apart from the original establishment. This intimation
+was enough. The first class, with few exceptions, retired, followed by
+part of both the others, and all exclaiming against Mr. Owen's conduct. A
+person named Taylor, who had entered into a distillery speculation with
+one of Mr. Owen's sons, seized this opportunity to get the control of part
+of the property. Mr. Owen became embarrassed. Harmony was on the point of
+being sold by the sheriff--discord prevailed, and co-operation ceased.
+
+Of the many private and public charges brought against Mr. Owen, I shall
+only notice one. It is said that he invited people to throw up their
+establishments in other parts of America, and come to Harmony, conscious
+at the same time that the community could not succeed, and, indeed, not
+caring much about its success, having ultimately in view the increase of
+the value of his purchase, by collecting a number of persons together, and
+thus making a town--a common speculation in America. Whether these were
+his intentions or not, it is impossible for any man to assert or deny; but
+the fact is no less true, that such has been the result, and that the
+purchase has been increased in value by the failure of the community, so
+that _ultimately_ he is not likely to lose anything by the experiment. As
+to Mr. Owen's statements in public, "that he had been informed that the
+people of America were capable of governing themselves, and that he tried
+the experiment, and found they were not so,"--and that "the place having
+been purchased, it was necessary to get persons to occupy it." These
+constitute but an imperfect excuse for having induced the separation of
+families, caused many thriving establishments to be broken up, and even
+the ruin of some few individuals, who, although their capital was but
+small, yet having thrown it all into the common stock, when the community
+failed, found themselves in a state of complete destitution. These
+persons, then, forgetting the "doctrine of circumstances," and everything
+but the result, and the promises of Mr. Owen, censured him in no measured
+language, and cannot be convinced of the purity of his intentions in
+_that_ affair. Indeed, they have always at hand such a multiplicity of
+facts to prove that Mr. Owen himself mainly contributed to the failure,
+that one must be blinded by that partiality which so known a
+philanthropist necessarily inspires, not to be convinced that, however
+competent he may be to preach the doctrines of co-operation, he is
+totally incompetent to carry them into effect.
+
+But Mr. Owen has also declared in public that "the New Harmony experiment
+succeeded beyond his most sanguine expectations." Now what may be his
+peculiar notions of success, the public are totally ignorant, as he did
+not think fit to furnish any explanation; but this the public do know,
+that between the former and the latter statement there is a slight
+discrepancy.
+
+Some of Mr. Owen's friends _in London_ say, that every thing went on well
+at Harmony until he gave up the management--that is, that he governed the
+community for the first few weeks, the short period of its prosperity, and
+that it declined only from the time of his ceding the dictatorship. Now
+Mr. Owen _himself_ says, that he only interfered when he observed they
+were going wrong; implying that he did not interfere in the commencement,
+but did so subsequently. These are contradictions which would require a
+good deal of mystification to reconcile in appearance. All the
+communicants whom I met in America, although they differed on almost every
+other point, yet agreed on this,--that Mr. Owen interfered from first to
+last during his stay at Harmony, and that at the time when he first
+quitted it nothing but discord prevailed.
+
+Very little experience of a residence in the backwoods convinced Mr. Owen
+that he was not in the situation most consonant with his feelings. He had
+been, when in Europe, surrounded by people who regarded him as an oracle,
+and received his _ipse dixit_ as a sufficient solution for every
+difficulty. His situation at Harmony was very different; for most of the
+persons who came there had been accustomed to exercise their judgment in
+matters of practice, and this Mr. Owen is said not to have been able to
+endure. He would either evade, or refuse, answering direct questions,
+which naturally made men so accustomed to independence as the Americans
+are, indignant. The usual answer he gave to any presuming disciple who
+ventured to request an explanation, was, that "his young friend" was in a
+total state of ignorance, and that he should therefore attend the lectures
+more constantly for the future. There is this peculiarity respecting the
+philosophy propounded by Mr. Owen, which is, that after a pupil has been
+attending his lectures for eighteen months, he (Mr. Owen) declares that
+the said pupil knows nothing at all about his system. This certainly
+argues a defect either in matter or manner.
+
+His followers appear not to be aware of the fact, that Mr. Owen has not
+originated a single new idea in his whole book, but has simply put forward
+the notions of Rousseau, Voltaire, Condorcet, Plato, Sir Thomas More, &c.,
+in other language. His merit consists in this, and no small merit it is,
+that he has collated the ideas of these philosophers--arranged them in a
+tangible shape, and has devoted time and money to assist their
+dissemination.
+
+I find on one of his cards, printed for distribution, the following
+axioms, in the shape of queries, set forth as being _his_ doctrine,--not
+the doctrine which _he advocates_.
+
+"Does it depend upon man to be born of such and such parents?
+
+"Can he choose to take, or not to take, the opinions of his parents and
+instructors?
+
+"If born of Pagan or Mahometan parents, was it in his power to become a
+Christian?"
+
+These positions are laid down by Rousseau, in many passages of his works;
+but as one quotation will be sufficient to establish my assertion, I shall
+not trouble myself to look for others. He says, in his "Lettre a M. de
+Beaumont," p. 124, "A l'egard des objections sur les sectes particulieres
+dans lesquelles l'universe est divise, que ne puis-je leur donnez assez de
+force pour rendre chacun moins entete de la sienne et moins ennemi des
+autres; pour porter chacque homme a l'indulgence, a la douceur, par cette
+consideration si frappante et si naturelle; que s'il fut ne dans un autre
+pays, dans une autre secte il prendrait infailliblement pour l'erreur ce
+qu'il prends pour la verite, et pour la verite, ce qu'il prends pour
+l'erreur."
+
+None but a man whose mind had been warped by the too constant
+contemplation of one particular subject, as Mr. Owen's mind has been
+warped by the eternal consideration of the Utopian republic, could suppose
+the practicability of carrying those plans into full effect during the
+existence of the present generation. He himself, whilst preaching to his
+handful of disciples the doctrine of perfect equality, is acting on quite
+different principles; and he has his new lecture-room divided into
+compartments separating the classes in society--thus proving that even his
+few followers are unprepared for such a change as he wishes to introduce
+into society, and that he finds the necessity of temporising even with
+_them_.
+
+Another proof of the variance there is between the theory and the practice
+of Mr. Owen, may be found in the constitution of his new community. The
+first article says, that, "An annual subscription paid, of not less than
+one pound, constitutes _a member_, who is entitled to attend and _vote_ at
+all public meetings of the association." These may be termed the
+twenty-shilling freeholders of the community.[4] Then follow the other
+grades and conditions. A donation of one hundred pounds, constitutes _a
+visitor_ for life: a donation of five hundred pounds, _a vice-president_
+for life: and a donation of one thousand pounds, _a president_, who, "in
+addition to the last-mentioned privileges," will enjoy many others of a
+valuable nature.
+
+King James sold two hundred baronetcies of the United Kingdom, for one
+thousand pounds each; and Mr. Owen offers an unlimited number of
+presidentships in his incipient Utopia on the same advantageous terms. I
+by no means dispute that the distinction Mr. Owen will confer on his
+purchasers may be quite as valuable, in his eyes and those of his
+disciples, as that conferred by King James; yet I cannot help suspecting,
+despite of the insatiable yearning the aristocracy have after
+vain-glorious titles, that few of them will come forward as candidates for
+his Utopian honours.
+
+FOOTNOTES:
+
+[4] Since writing the above, I find that the constitution has already
+undergone an essential change; but Mr. Owen appears to entertain views of
+reformation very different indeed from our present Whig administration,
+for he has actually placed both _members_ and _visitors_ in schedule (A)
+of _his_ reform bill, and at one fell swoop has deprived this most
+deserving class of all political existence. None but vice-presidents and
+presidents have now the power of voting.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER V.
+
+
+Having remained about a fortnight at Harmony, we made the necessary
+arrangements, and, accompanied by B----, set out for St. Louis, in
+Missouri. We crossed the Wabash into Illinois, and proceeded to Albion,
+the settlement made by the late Mr. Birkbeck.
+
+Albion is at present a small insignificant town surrounded by prairies, on
+which there are several handsome farms. Messrs. Birkbeck and Flowers
+purchased large tracts of land in this neighbourhood, for the purpose of
+re-selling or letting it to English or other emigrants. These two
+gentlemen were of the class called in England, "gentlemen farmers," and
+brought with them from that country very large capitals; a considerable
+portion of which, in addition to the money laid out on purchase, they
+expended on improvements. They are both now dead--their property has
+entirely passed into other hands, and the members of their families who
+still remain in this country are in comparative indigence.
+
+The most inveterate hostility was manifested by the backwoods people
+towards those settlers, and the series of outrages and annoyances to which
+they were exposed, contributed not a little to shorten their days. It at
+length became notorious that neither Birkbeck nor Flowers could obtain
+redress for any grievance whatever, unless by appealing to the superior
+courts,--as both the magistrates and jurors were exclusively of the class
+of the offenders; and the "Supreme Court of the United States" declared,
+that the verdicts of the juries, and the decisions of the magistrates
+were, in many cases, so much at variance with the evidences, that they
+were disgraceful to the country. A son of the latter gentleman, a lad
+about fourteen years old, was killed in open day whilst walking in his
+father's garden, by a blow of an axe handle, which was flung at him across
+the fence. The evidence was clear against the murderer, and yet he was
+acquitted. Whilst I was at Vandalia, I saw in a list of lands for sale,
+amongst other lots to be sold for taxes, one of Mr. Flowers'. The fate of
+these gentlemen and their families should be a sufficient warning to
+persons of their class in England, not to attempt settling _in the
+backwoods_; or if they have that idea, to leave aside altogether refined
+notions, and never to bring with them either the feelings or the habits of
+a _gentleman farmer_. The whole secret and cause of this _guerre a mort_,
+declared by the backwoodsmen against Messrs. Birkbeck and Flowers, was,
+that when they first settled upon the prairies, they attempted to act the
+_patron_ and the _benefactor_, and considered themselves _entitled_ to
+some respect. Now a west-country American would rather die like a cock on
+a dunghill, than be patronized after the English fashion; he is not
+accustomed to receive benefactions, and cannot conceive that any man would
+voluntarily confer favours on him, without expecting something in return,
+either in the shape of labour, or goods;--and as to respect, that has
+totally disappeared from his code since "the Declaration."
+
+Mr. Birkbeck was called "Emperor of the Prairies;" and notwithstanding the
+hostility of his neighbours, he seems to have been much respected in the
+other parts of Illinois, as he was chosen secretary of state; and in that
+character he died, in 1825. He at last devoted himself entirely to gaining
+political influence, seeing that it was the duty of every man in a free
+country to be a politician, and that he who "takes no interest in
+political affairs," must be a bad man, or must want capacity to act in the
+common occurrences of life.
+
+From Albion we proceeded towards the Little Wabash; but had not got many
+miles from that town, when an accident occurred which delayed us some
+time. We were driving along through a wood of scrub-oak, or barren, when
+our carriage, coming in contact with a stump that lay concealed beneath
+high grass, was pitched into a rut--it was upset--and before we could
+recover ourselves, away went the horse dashing through the wood, leaving
+the hind wheels and body of the vehicle behind. He took the path we had
+passed over, and fortunately halted at the next corn-field. We repaired
+the damage in a temporary manner, and again set forward.
+
+After having crossed the Little Wabash, we had to pass through three miles
+of swamp frequently above our ancles in the mire, for the horse could
+scarcely drag the empty waggon. We at length came out on "Hardgrove's
+prairie." The prospect which here presented itself was extremely
+gratifying to our eyes. Since I had left the little prairie in the
+Wyandot reserve, I had been buried in eternal forests; and,
+notwithstanding all the efforts one may make to rally one's spirits, still
+the heart of a European sickens at the sameness of the scene, and he
+cannot get rid of the idea of imprisonment, where the visible horizon is
+never more distant than five or six hundred yards. Yet this is the delight
+of an Indian or a backwoodsman, and the gloomy ferocity that characterizes
+these people is evidently engendered by the surrounding scenery, and may
+be considered as indigenous to the forest. Hardgrove's is perhaps the
+handsomest prairie in Illinois--before us lay a rich green undulating
+meadow, and on either side, clusters of trees, interspersed through this
+vast plain in beautiful irregularity--the waving of the high grass, and
+the distant groves rearing their heads just above the horizontal line,
+like the first glimpse of land to the weary navigator, formed a
+combination of ideas peculiar to the scene which lay before us.
+
+With the exception of one or two miles of wood, occasionally, the whole of
+our journey through Illinois lay over prairie ground, and the roads were
+so level, that without any extraordinary exertion on the part of our
+horse, he carried us from thirty to forty miles a day.
+
+We next crossed the "grand prairie," passing over the Indian trace.
+Although this is by no means so picturesque as Hardgrove's, yet the
+boundless prospect that is presented on first entering this prairie is far
+the more sublime--the ideas expand, and the imagination is carried far
+beyond the limits of the eye. We saw some deer scouring the plains, and
+several "prairie wolves" skulking in the high grass--this animal is
+sometimes destructive to sheep. The size is about that of our fox. Most
+farmers keep three or four hounds, which are trained to combat the wolf.
+The training is thus--a dead wolf is first shewn to a young dog, when he
+is set on to tear it; the next process is to muzzle a live wolf, and tie
+him to a stake, when the dog of course kills him; the last is, setting the
+dog on an unmuzzled wolf, which has been tied to a stake, with his legs
+shackled. The dog being thus accustomed to be always the victor, never
+fails to attack and kill the prairie wolf whenever he meets him.
+
+Within thirteen miles of Carlisle, we stopped at an inn, a solitary
+establishment, the nearest habitation being more than six miles distant.
+The landlord, Mr. Elliot, told us that he was unable to accommodate us
+with beds, as his house was already quite full; but that if we could
+dispense with beds, he would provide us with every thing else. Having no
+alternative, we of course acceded to his proposal. There was then holding
+at his house what is termed an "inn fair," or the day after the wedding.
+The marriage takes place at the house of the bride's father, and the day
+following a party is given by the bridegroom, when he takes home his wife.
+The people here assembled had an extremely healthy appearance, and some
+of the girls were decidedly handsome, having, with fine florid
+complexions, regular features and good teeth. The landlord and his sons
+were very civil, as indeed were all the company there assembled.
+
+A great many respectable English yeomen have at different periods settled
+in Illinois, which has contributed not a little to improve the state of
+society; for the inhabitants of these prairies, generally speaking, are
+much more agreeable than those of most other parts of the western country.
+
+When the night was tolerably far advanced, the decks were cleared, and
+three feather beds were placed _seriatem_ on the floor, on which a general
+scramble took place for berths--we wrapped ourselves in our cloaks, and
+lay seventeen in a bed until morning, when we arose, and went out to "have
+a wash." The practice at all inns and boarding-houses throughout the
+western country, excepting at those in the more considerable towns, is to
+perform ablutions gregariously, under one of the porches, either before or
+behind the house--thus attendance is avoided, and the interior is kept
+free from all manner of pollutions.
+
+An abundance of good stone-coal is found all through this state, of which
+I saw several specimens. Were it not for this circumstance, the difficulty
+of procuring wood for fuel and fencing, would more than counterbalance the
+advantages, in other respects, presented to settlers on the prairies.
+
+The average crops of Indian corn are about fifty bushels per acre, which
+when planted, they seldom plough or hoe more than once. In the bottom
+lands of Indiana and Ohio, from seventy to eighty bushels per acre is
+commonly produced, but with twice the quantity of labour and attention,
+independent of the trouble of clearing. There are two denominations of
+prairie: the upland, and the river or bottom prairie; the latter is more
+fertile than the former, having a greater body of alluvion, yet there are
+many of the upland prairies extremely rich, particularly those in the
+neighbourhood of the Wabash. The depth of the vegetable soil on some of
+those plains, has been found frequently to be from eighteen to twenty
+feet, but the ordinary depth is more commonly under five. The upland
+prairies are much more extensive than the river prairies, and are
+invariably free from intermittent fever--an exemption, which to emigrants
+must be of the utmost importance.
+
+Previous to our leaving Elliott's inn, we witnessed a chase of two wolves,
+which had the boldness to come to the sheep-pens close to the house.
+Unfortunately the dogs were not at hand, and the wolves escaped among the
+high grass. Mr. Elliott positively refused accepting of any compensation
+in lieu of our supper and lodging: he said he considered our lodging a
+thing not to be spoken of; and as to our supper--which by-the-by was a
+capital one--he had invited us to that. We merely paid for the horse,
+thanked him for his hospitality, and departed. During our journey through
+Indiana we had invariably to use persuasion, in order to induce the
+farmers to take money for either milk or fruit; and whenever we stayed at
+a farm-house, we never paid more than what appeared to be barely
+sufficient to cover the actual cost of what we consumed.
+
+At Carlisle, a village containing about a dozen houses, we got our vehicle
+repaired. We required a new shaft: the smith walked deliberately out--cast
+his eye on a rail of the fence close by, and in half an hour he had
+finished a capital shaft of white oak.
+
+The next town we came to was Lebanon, and we determined on staying there
+that evening, in order to witness a revival. They have no regular places
+of worship on the prairies, and the inhabitants are therefore subject to
+the incursions of itinerant preachers, who migrate annually, in swarms,
+from the more thickly settled districts. There appeared to be a great
+lack of zeal among the denizens of Lebanon, as notwithstanding the
+energetic exhortations of the preachers, and their fulminating
+denunciations against backsliders, they failed in exciting much
+enthusiasm. The meeting ended, as is customary on such occasions, by a
+collection for the preachers, who set out on horseback, next morning, to
+levy contributions on another body of the natives.
+
+From Lebanon we proceeded across a chain of hills, and came in on a
+beautiful plain, called the "American bottom." Some of those hills were
+clear to the summit, while others were crowned with rich foliage. Before
+us, to the extreme right, were six or seven tumuli, or "Indian mounds;"
+and to the left, and immediately in front, lay a handsome wood. From the
+hills to the river is about six miles; and this space appears evidently to
+have been a lake at some former period, previous to the Mississippi's
+flowing through its present deep channel. Several stagnant ponds lay by
+our road; sufficient indications of the presence of disease, which this
+place has the character of producing in abundance. The beauty of the spot,
+and the fertility of the soil, have, notwithstanding, induced several
+English families to settle here. Their houses are built of brick, and
+their gardens and farms are laid out and fenced tastefully.
+
+After traversing the wood, we at length came in sight of the Mississippi,
+which is here about three quarters of a mile broad. There is a steam
+ferry-boat stationed at this point, (opposite St. Louis), the construction
+of which is rather singular. It is built nearly square, having in the
+middle a house containing two spacious apartments, and on each side decks,
+on which stand horses, oxen, waggons and carriages of every description.
+
+St. Louis is built on a bluff bank. The _principal_ streets rise one above
+the other, running parallel with the river; the houses are mostly built of
+stone, the bank being entirely composed of that material, the walls
+whitewashed, and the roofs covered with tin: from the opposite side it
+presents a very gay appearance. The ascent from the water's edge to the
+back of the town is considerable, but regular. The streets intersect each
+other at right angles, as do those of most American towns. They are much
+too narrow, having been laid down and built on from a plan designed by the
+Spanish commandant, previous to the Missouri territory becoming part of
+the United States. The population is estimated at six thousand, composed
+of Creole-French, Irish, and Americans.
+
+St. Louis must, at some future period, become decidedly the most important
+town in the western country, from its local and relative situation. It is
+seated on the most favourable point below the mouths of two noble rivers,
+the Missouri and the Illinois,[5] having at its back an immense tract of
+fertile country, and open and easy communication with the finest parts of
+the western and north-western territories. These advantages, added to the
+constant and uninterrupted intercourse which it enjoys with the southern
+ports, must ultimately make St. Louis a town of wealth and magnitude.
+
+We visited General Clarke's museum, which chiefly contains Indian costumes
+and implements of war, with some minerals and fossils, a portion of which
+he collected while on the expedition to the Rocky mountains with Lewis;
+and also, two sods of good black turf, from the bogs of Allen, in Ireland.
+A sight which was quite exhilarating, and reminded me so strongly of the
+fine odour which exhales from the products of illicit distillation, that
+guagers and potteen, like the phantoms of hallucination, were presenting
+themselves continually to my imagination for the remainder of that day.
+
+General Clarke is a tall, robust, grey-headed old man, with beetle-brows,
+and uncouthly aspect: his countenance is expressive of anything but
+intelligence; and his celebrity is said to have been gained principally by
+his having been the _companion_ of Lewis to the Rocky mountains.
+
+The country around St. Louis is principally prairie, and the soil
+luxuriant. There are many excellent farms, and some fine herds of cattle,
+in the neighbourhood: yet the supply of produce seems to be insufficient,
+as considerable quantities are imported annually from Louisville and
+Cincinnati. The principal lots of ground in and near the town are at the
+disposal of some five or six individuals, who, having thus created a
+monopoly, keep up the price. This, added to the little inducement held out
+to farming people in a slave state, where no man can work himself without
+losing _caste_, has mainly contributed to retard the increase of
+population and prosperity in the neighbourhood of St. Louis.
+
+There are two fur companies established here. The expeditions depart early
+in spring, and generally return late in autumn. This trade is very
+profitable. A person who is at present at the head of one of those
+companies, was five years ago a bankrupt, and is now considered wealthy.
+He bears the character of being a regular Yankee; and if the never giving
+a direct answer to a plain question constitutes a Yankee, he is one most
+decidedly. We had some intention of crossing to Santa Fe, in New Mexico,
+and we accordingly waited on him for the purpose of making some inquiries
+relative to the departure of the caravans; but to any of the plain
+questions we asked, we could not get a satisfactory answer,--at length,
+becoming tired of hedge-fighting, we departed, with quite as much
+information as we had before the interview.
+
+A trapping expedition is being fitted out for the Rocky mountains, on an
+extensive scale. The number of persons intended to be employed on this, is
+about two hundred. Teams for the transportation of merchandize and
+luggage are preparing, which is an accommodation never enjoyed before by
+trappers, as pack-horses have always hitherto been substituted. These
+waggons may also be found useful as _barricades_, in case of an attack
+from the Indians. The expedition will be absent two or three years.
+
+A trade with Santa Fe is also established. In the Spanish country the
+traders receive, in exchange for dry goods and merchandize of every
+description, specie, principally; which makes money much more plentiful
+here than in any other town in the western country.
+
+The caravans generally strike away, near the head waters of the Arkansas
+and Red rivers, to the south-west, close to the foot of the Rocky
+mountains--travelling above a thousand miles through the Indian country
+before they reach the Mexican boundary. These journeys are long and
+tedious, and require men of nerve and muscle to undertake them; the
+morasses and rivers which they have to cross--the extensive prairies and
+savannahs they have to traverse, and the dense forests to penetrate, are
+sufficient to subdue any but iron constitutions.
+
+The countries west of the Mississippi are likely to be greatly enriched by
+the trade with Mexico; as, in addition to the vast quantities of valuable
+merchandize procured from that country, specie to a very large amount is
+put in circulation, which to a new country is of incalculable advantage.
+The party which lately returned to Fayette in Missouri, brought 200,000
+dollars in specie.
+
+The lead-mines of Galena and Potosi inundate St. Louis with that metal.
+The latter mines are extensive, consisting of forty in number, and are
+situated near the head of Big-river, which flows into the Merrimac: a
+water transportation is thus effected to the Mississippi, eighteen miles
+below St. Louis. This, however, is only in the spring and fall, as at
+other seasons the Merrimac is not navigable for common-sized boats, at a
+greater distance than fifty miles from its mouth. The Merrimac is upwards
+of 200 miles in length, and at its outlet it is about 200 yards in
+breadth.
+
+The principal buildings in St. Louis are, the government-house, the
+theatre, the bank of the United States, and three or four Catholic and
+Protestant churches. The Catholic is the prevalent religion. There are two
+newspapers published here. Cafes, billiard tables, dancing houses, &c.,
+are in abundance.
+
+The inhabitants of St. Louis more resemble Europeans in their manners and
+habits than any other people I met with in the west. The more wealthy
+people generally spend some time in New Orleans every year, which makes
+them much more sociable, and much less _brusque_ than their neighbours.
+
+We visited Florissant, a French village, containing a convent and a young
+ladies' seminary. The country about this place pleased us much. We passed
+many fine farms--through open woodlands, which have much the appearance
+of domains--and across large tracts of sumach, the leaves of which at this
+season are no longer green, but have assumed a rich crimson hue. The
+Indians use these leaves as provision for the pipe.
+
+We stayed for eight days at a small village on the banks of the
+Mississippi, about six miles below St. Louis, and four above Jefferson
+barracks, called Carondalet, or, _en badinage, "vide poche."_ The
+inhabitants are nearly all Creole-French, and speak a miserable _patois_.
+The same love of pleasure which, with bravery, characterizes the French
+people in Europe, also distinguishes their descendants in Carondalet.
+Every Saturday night _les garcons et les filles_ meet to dance quadrilles.
+The girls dance well, and on these occasions they dress tastefully. These
+villagers live well, dress well, and dance well, but have
+miserable-looking habitations; the house of a Frenchman being always a
+secondary consideration. At one of those balls I observed a very pretty
+girl surrounded by gay young Frenchmen, with whom she was flirting in a
+style that would not have disgraced a belle from the _Faubourg St. Denis_,
+and turning to my neighbour, I asked him who she was; he replied, "Elle
+s'appelle Louise Constant, monsieur,--c'est la rose de village." Could a
+peasant of any other nation have expressed himself so prettily, or have
+been gallant with such a grace?
+
+Accompanied by our landlord, we visited Jefferson barracks. The officer to
+whom we had an introduction not being _chez-lui_ at that time, we were
+introduced to some other officers by our host, who united in his single
+person the triple capacity of squire, or magistrate, newspaper proprietor,
+and tavern-keeper. The officers, as may be expected, are men from every
+quarter of the Union, whose manners necessarily vary and partake of the
+character of their several states.
+
+The barracks stand on the bluffs of the Mississippi, and, with the river's
+bank, they form a parallelogram--the buildings are on three sides, and
+the fourth opens to the river; the descent from the extremity of the area
+to the water's edge is planted with trees, and the whole has a picturesque
+effect. These buildings have been almost entirely erected by the soldiers,
+who are compelled to work from morning till night at every kind of
+laborious employment. This arrangement has saved the state much money; yet
+the propriety of employing soldiers altogether in this manner is very
+questionable. Desertions are frequent, and the punishment hitherto
+inflicted for that crime has been flogging; but Jackson declares now that
+shooting must be resorted to. The soldiers are obliged to be servilely
+respectful to the officers, _pulling off_ the undress cap at their
+approach. This species of discipline may be pronounced inconsistent with
+the institutions of the country, yet when we come to consider the
+materials of which an _American_ regular regiment is composed, we shall
+find the difficulty of producing order and regularity in such a body much
+greater than at first view might be apprehended. In this country any man
+who wishes to work may employ himself profitably, consequently all those
+who sell their liberty by enlisting must be the very dregs of society--men
+without either character or industry--drunkards, thieves, and culprits who
+by flight have escaped the penitentiary, and enlisted under the impression
+that the life of a soldier was one of idleness; in which they have been
+most grievously mistaken. When we take these facts into consideration, the
+difficulty of managing a set of such fellows will appear more than a
+little. Yet unquestionably there are individuals among the officers whose
+bearing is calculated to inspire any thing but that respect which they so
+scrupulously exact, and without which they declare it would be impossible
+to command. The drillings take place on Sundays.
+
+Near Carondalet we visited two slave-holders, who employed slaves in
+agriculture; which practice experience has shewn in every instance to be
+unprofitable. One had thirteen; and yet every thing about his house rather
+indicated poverty than affluence. These slaves lived in a hut, among the
+outhouses, about twelve feet square--men, women, and children; and in
+every respect were fully as miserable and degraded in condition as the
+unfortunate wretches who reside in the lanes and alleys of St. Giles' and
+Spitalfields, with this exception, that _they_ were well fed. The other
+slave-holder, brother of the former, lived much in the same manner;--but
+it is necessary to observe that both these persons were hunters, and that
+hunters have nothing good in their houses but dogs and venison.
+
+T---- having gone on a hunting excursion with our host, and some of his
+friends, B---- and I drove the ladies to the plantation of the latter
+gentleman. He had a farm on the bluffs, which was broken and irregular, as
+is always the case in those situations. Large holes, called "sink-holes,"
+are numerous along these banks; the shape of them is precisely that of an
+inverted cone, through the apex of which the water sinks, and works its
+way into the river. Cedar trees grow on the rocks, and the scenery is in
+many places extremely grand. Wild-geese congregate in multitudes on the
+islands in the Mississippi, and at night send forth the most wild and
+piercing cries.
+
+Our hostess was one of those sylvan Amazons who could handle any thing,
+from the hunting-knife to the ponderous axe; and she dressed in the true
+sylph-like costume of the backwoods. Her _robe_, which appeared to be the
+only garment with which she encumbered herself, fitted her, as they say at
+sea, "like a purser's shirt on a handspike," and looked for all the world
+like an inverted sack, with appropriate apertures cut for head and arms;
+she wore shoes, in compliment to her guests--her hair hung about her
+shoulders in true Indian style; and altogether she was a genuine sample
+of backwoods' civilization. We were placed in a good bed--the state-bed of
+course--and as we lay, paid our devotions to Urania, and contemplated the
+beauties of the starry firmament, through an aperture in the roof which
+would have admitted a jackass.
+
+The proprietor assured us that his slaves produced him no more than the
+bare interest of the money invested in their purchase, and that he was a
+slave-holder not from choice, but because it was the prevailing practice
+of the country. He said he had two handsome Mulatto girls hired out at the
+barracks for six dollars per month each.
+
+In St. Louis there were seven Indian chiefs, hostages from the Ioway
+nation. Their features were handsome--with one exception, they had all
+aquiline noses--they were tall and finely proportioned, and altogether as
+fine-looking fellows as I ever saw. The colour of these Indians was much
+redder than that of any others I had seen; their heads were shaven, with
+the exception of a small stripe, extending from the centre of the
+crown back to the _organ of philoprogenitiveness_--the gallant
+scalping-lock--which was decorated with feathers so as somewhat to
+resemble the crest of a Greek or Roman helmet. Their bodies were uncovered
+from the waist upwards, except when they wore blankets, a modern
+substitute for the buffalo-robe, which they commonly wore over the left
+shoulder, leaving the right arm and breast bare. The Ioways are a nation
+dwelling in the Missouri territory, and these hostages delivered
+themselves up pending the investigation of an affray that had taken place
+between their people and the backwoodsmen.
+
+The day previous to our departure from St. Louis, the investigation took
+place in the Museum, which is also the office of Indian affairs. There
+were upwards of twenty Indians present, including the hostages. The charge
+made against these unfortunate people and on which they had been obliged
+to come six or seven hundred miles, to stand their trial before _white
+judges_, was, "that the Ioways had come down on the white
+territory--killed the cattle, and attacked the settlers, by which attack
+four citizens lost their lives." The principal chief implicated in the
+affair, named "Big-neck," was called upon for his defence. In the person
+of this man there was nothing remarkable. He advanced into the centre of
+the room, and disengaging his right arm from the blanket, shook hands with
+the judges, and then, in succession, with all the officers of the court.
+This ceremony being ended, he paused, and drawing himself up to his full
+height, extended his arm forward towards the judge, and inclining his head
+a little in the same direction, said, "If I had done that of which my
+white brother accuses me, I would not stand here now. The words of my
+red-headed father (General Clarke) have passed through both my ears, and I
+have remembered them. I am accused, and I am not guilty." (The
+interpreter translated each sentence as it was delivered, and gave it as
+nearly verbatim as possible--observe, the pronoun I is here used
+figuratively, for _his party, and for the tribe_). "I thought I would come
+down to see my red-headed father, to hold a talk with him.--I come across
+the line (boundary)--I see the cattle of my white brother dead--I see the
+Sauk kill them in great numbers--I said that there would be trouble--I
+turn to go to my village--I find I have no provisions--I say, let us go
+down to our white brother, and trade our powder and shot for a little--I
+do so, and again turn upon my tracks, until I reach my village."--He here
+paused, and looking sternly down the room, to where two Sauks sat, pointed
+his finger at them and said, "The Sauk, who always tells lie of me, goes
+to my white brother and says--the Ioway has killed your cattle. When the
+lie (the Sauk) had talked thus to my white brother, he comes, thirty, up
+to my village--we hear our brother is coming--we are glad, and leave our
+cabins to tell him he is welcome--but while I shake hands with my white
+brother," he said, pointing to his forehead, "my white brother shoots me
+through the head--my best chief--three of my young men, a squaw and his[6]
+child. We come from our huts unarmed--even without our blankets--and yet,
+while I shake hands with my white brother, he shoots me down--my best
+chief. My young men within, hear me shot--they rush out--they fire on my
+white brother--he falls, four--my people fly to the woods without their
+rifles." He then stated that four more Indians died in the forest of cold
+and starvation, fearing to return to their villages, and being without
+either blankets or guns. At length returning, and finding that their
+"great chiefs" had delivered themselves up, he came to stand his trial.
+
+The next person called was an old chief, named "Pumpkin," who corroborated
+the testimony of "Big-Neck," but had not been with the party when the
+Sauks were seen killing the cattle. When he came to that part of the story
+where the Indian comes from his wig-wam to meet the white man, he said,
+nearly in the same words used by Big-neck, "While I shake hands with my
+white brother, my white brother shoots me down--my best chief"--he here
+paused, and lifting his eyes above the heads of the auditors, his lip
+curling a little, but resuming again, almost immediately, its natural
+position, he pronounced in a low but distinct guttural tone, the Indian
+word meaning "_my_ son." His eye seemed fixed for a few seconds, and then,
+as if conscious of his weakness, and that the eyes of the great warriors
+of his tribe were upon him, he looked slowly round in a kind of solemn
+triumph, and resumed his tale. There was a strong feeling excited in the
+court by the misfortune of this old man, for the "best chief" of the
+Ioways was his _only_ son. The court asked the chiefs what they thought
+should be done in the matter? They spoke a few words to each other, and
+then answered promptly, that all they required was, that their white
+brother should be brought down also, and confronted with them. The
+prisoners were set at liberty on their parole.
+
+Nothing could have been more respectable than the silence and gravity of
+the Indians during the investigation. The hostages particularly, were
+really imposing in their appearance; an air of solemnity overspread their
+manly countenances, whilst their eyes bespoke that unquailing spirit which
+the habits and vicissitudes of a sylvan life are calculated rather to
+raise than depress. The Indians, when uncontaminated by the vices of the
+whites, are really a fine people; and it is melancholy to reflect that in
+a few centuries the red-man will be known only by name, for his total
+extinction seems almost inevitable.
+
+The upshot of this affair proved that the Indians' statement was correct,
+and a few presents was then thought sufficient to compensate the tribe for
+this most unwarrantable outrage.
+
+The fact of the prisoners being set free on their parole, proves the high
+character they maintain with the whites. An officer who had seen a great
+deal of service on the frontiers, assured me that, from _experience_, he
+had rather fall into the hands of the Indians, than of the
+backwoodsmen.[7] Once, while crossing one of the immense prairies in the
+Missouri territory during the winter season, this gentleman, Mr. R----,
+was seized with rheumatic pains, and unable to proceed. His party,
+consisting only of a few men, had no provisions, nor had they any means of
+taking him with them, being completely exhausted themselves--he was left
+on the plains to die. An old Indian chief, of one of the hostile tribes,
+chanced to find him; he carried him home, and nourished him until he was
+sufficiently recovered to eat with the warriors; when they came to the hut
+of his host, in order as they said to do honour to the unfortunate white
+chief. He remained in their village for two months; at the expiration of
+which time, being sufficiently recovered, they conducted him to the
+frontiers, took their leave, and retired.
+
+Clements Burleigh, who resided thirty years in the United States, says, in
+his "Advice to Emigrants," "It may be objected by some that it is
+dangerous to go to the frontier country, on account of the Indians, wild
+beasts, &c.; this is no more than a scarecrow. Indians in time of peace
+are perfectly inoffensive, and every dependence may be placed on them. If
+you call at their huts, you are invited to partake of what they have--they
+even will divide with you the last morsel they have, if they were starving
+themselves; and while you remain with them you are perfectly safe, as
+every individual of them would lose his life in your defence. This
+unfortunate portion of the human race has not been treated with that
+degree of justice and tenderness which people calling themselves
+Christians ought to have exercised towards them. Their lands have been
+forcibly taken from them in many instances without rendering them a
+compensation; and in their wars with the people of the United States, the
+most shocking cruelties have been exercised towards them. I myself fought
+against them in two campaigns, and was witness to scenes a repetition of
+which would chill the blood, and be only a monument of disgrace to people
+of my own colour.
+
+"Being in the neighbourhood of the Indians during the time of peace, need
+not alarm the emigrant, as the Indian will not be as dangerous to him as
+idle vagabonds that roam the woods and hunt. He has more to dread from
+these people of his own colour than from the Indians."
+
+FOOTNOTES:
+
+[5] Eighteen miles below the mouth of the Missouri, and thirty-six below
+that of the Illinois.
+
+[6] In the Indian tongue there is no distinction of masculine or feminine
+gender, but simply of animate and inanimate beings.
+
+[7] "The freedom of manners, and the uncertainty of life, from the
+various hazards to which it is inevitably exposed, imparts to the
+character of savages a species of liberality, under which are couched
+many benevolent principles; a respect for the aged, and in several
+instances a deference to their equals. The natural coldness of their
+temperament, admits of few outward demonstrations of civility. They are,
+however, affable in their mode, and are ever disposed to show towards
+strangers, and particularly towards the unfortunate, the strongest marks
+of hospitality. A savage will seldom hesitate to share with a
+fellow-creature oppressed by hunger, his last morsel of
+provisions."--Vide _Heriot_, p. 318.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER VI.
+
+
+On our return to Illinois from Missouri, we visited the tumuli in the
+"American bottom," for the purpose of more closely investigating the form
+and disposition of these sepulchral mounds. Their shape is invariably
+hemispherical, or of the _mamelle_ form. Throughout the country, from the
+banks of the Hudson to a considerable distance beyond the Mississippi,
+tumuli, and the remains of earthen fortifications were dispersed. Those of
+the former which have been removed, were found to contain human bones,
+earthen vessels, and utensils composed of alloyed metal; which latter fact
+is worthy of particular notice, as none of the Indians of North America
+are acquainted with the art of alloying. The vessels were generally of
+the form of drinking cups, or ewer-shaped cans, sometimes with a flange to
+admit a cover. One of those which I saw in a museum at Cincinnati, had
+three small knobs at the bottom on which it stood, and I was credibly
+informed that a dissenting clergyman, through the _esprit de metier_,
+undertook to prove from the circumstance, that the people who raised these
+mounds and fortifications must have been acquainted with the doctrine of
+the Trinity. How far the reverend gentleman is correct in his inference, I
+leave for theologians to decide.
+
+The Indians do not claim the mounds as depositories for _their_ dead, but
+are well aware of their containing human bones. They frequently encamp
+near them, and visit them on their journeys, but more as land marks than
+on any other account. They approach them with reverence, as they do all
+burial places, no matter of what people or nation. The Quapaws have a
+tradition, that they were raised "many hundred snows" ago, by a people
+that no longer exists; they say, that in those days game was so plenty
+that very little exertion was necessary to procure a subsistence, and
+there were then no wars--these happy people having then no employment,
+collected, merely for sport, these heaps of earth, which have ever since
+remained, and have subsequently been used by another people, who succeeded
+them, as depositories of their dead. Another tradition is, that they were
+erected by the Indians to protect them from the mammoths, until the Great
+Spirit took pity on his red children, and annihilated these enormous
+elephants. Most of the Indian nations concur in their having been the work
+of a people which had ceased to exist before the red men possessed those
+hunting grounds.
+
+The numerous mounds, fortifications, and burial caverns, and the skeletons
+and mummies, that have been discovered in these catacombs, sufficiently
+establish the fact, that a people altogether different from the present
+aborigines once inhabited these regions. At what period this by-gone
+people flourished still remains a matter of mere conjecture, for to the
+present time no discovery has been made that could lead to any plausible
+supposition.
+
+De Witt Clinton having paid more attention to the antiquities of America
+than any other person of whom I am aware, I shall here insert his
+description of the forts. He says, "These forts were, generally speaking,
+erected on the most commanding ground. The walls, or breastworks, were
+earthen. The ditches were on the exterior of the works. On some of the
+parapets, oak trees were to be seen, which, from the number of concentric
+circles, must have been standing one hundred and fifty, two hundred and
+sixty, and three hundred years; and there were evident indications, not
+only that they had sprung up since the erection of these works, but that
+they were at least a second growth. The trenches were in some cases deep
+and wide, and in others shallow and narrow; and the breastworks varied in
+altitude from three to eight feet. They sometimes had one, and sometimes
+two entrances, as was to be inferred from there being no ditches at those
+places. When the works were protected by a deep ravine, or large stream of
+water, no ditch was to be seen. The areas of these forts varied from two
+to six acres; and the form was in general an irregular ellipsis; in some
+of them, fragments of earthenware and pulverized substances, supposed to
+have been originally human bones, were to be found."
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+"I believe we may confidently pronounce, that all the hypotheses which
+attribute these works to Europeans are incorrect and fanciful: 1st. on
+account of the present number of the works; 2d. on account of their
+antiquity; having from every appearance been erected a long time before
+the discovery of America; and, finally, their form and manner are varient
+from European fortifications, either in ancient or modern times.
+
+"It is equally clear that they were not the work of the Indians. Until the
+Senecas, who are renowned for their national vanity, had seen the
+attention of the Americans attracted to these erections, and had invented
+the fabulous account of which I have spoken, the Indians of the present
+day did not pretend to know any thing about their origin. They were beyond
+the reach of all their traditions, and were lost in the abyss of
+unexplored antiquity."
+
+At the Bull shoals, east branch of White river in Missouri, several feet
+below the surface of the banks, _reliqua_ were found which indicated that
+this spot had formerly been the seat of metalurgical operations. The alloy
+appeared to be lead united with silver. Arrow-heads cut out of flint, and
+pieces of earthen pots which had evidently undergone the action of fire,
+were also found here. The period of time at which these operations were
+carried on in this place must have been very remote, as the present banks
+have been since entirely formed by alluvial deposits.
+
+Near the _Teel-te-nah_ (or dripping-fork), which empties itself into the
+La Platte, and not far distant from its junction with that river, there is
+an extensive cavern, in which are deposited several mummies. Some tribes
+which roam this region have a tradition, that the first Indian ascended
+through this aperture, and settled on the earth's surface.
+
+A few years since, on the Merrimac river in St. Louis county, a number of
+pigmy graves were discovered. The coffins were of stone; and the length of
+the bodies which they contained, judging from that of the coffins, could
+not have been more than from three feet and a half to four feet. The
+graves were numerous, and the skeletons in some instances nearly entire.
+
+In the month of June (1830), a party of gentlemen, whilst in pursuit of
+wild turkeys, in Hart county, Kentucky, discovered, on the top of a small
+knoll, a hole sufficiently large to admit a man's body. Having procured
+lights, they descended, and at the depth of about sixty feet, entered a
+cavern, sixteen or eighteen feet square, apparently hewn out of solid
+rock. The whole chamber was filled with human skeletons, which they
+supposed, _from the size_, to be those of women and children. The place
+was perfectly dry, and the bones were in a state of great preservation.
+They wished to ascertain how deep the bones lay, and dug through them
+between four and seven feet, but found them quite as plentiful as at the
+top: on coming to this depth, dampness appeared, and an unpleasant
+effluvia arising, obliged them to desist. There was no outlet to the
+cavern. A large snake, which appeared to be perfectly docile, passed
+several times round the apartment whilst they remained.
+
+In a museum at New York, I saw one of those mummies alluded to, which
+appeared to be remarkably small; but I had not an opportunity of examining
+it minutely. Those that have been found in the most perfect state of
+preservation were deposited in nitrous caves, and were enveloped in a
+manner so different from the practices of the Indians, that the idea
+cannot be entertained of their being the remains of the ancestors of the
+present race. Flint gives the following description of one of them which
+he carefully examined. He says, "The more the subject of the past races of
+men and animals in this region is investigated, the more perplexed it
+seems to become. The huge bones of the animals indicate them to be vastly
+larger than any that now exist on the earth. All that I have seen and
+heard of the remains of the men, would seem to shew that they were smaller
+than the men of our times. All the bodies that have been found in that
+high state of preservation, in which they were discovered in nitrous
+caves, were considerably smaller than the present ordinary stature of
+men. The two bodies that were found in the vast limestone cavern in
+Tennessee, one of which I saw at Lexington, were neither of them more than
+four feet in height. It seems to me that this must have been nearly the
+height of the living person. The teeth and nails did not seem to indicate
+the shrinking of the flesh from them in the desiccating process by which
+they were preserved. The teeth were separated by considerable intervals;
+and were small, long, white, and sharp, reviving the horrible images of
+nursery tales of ogres' teeth. The hair seemed to have been sandy, or
+inclining to yellow. It is well known that nothing is so uniform in the
+present Indian as his lank black hair. From the pains taken to preserve
+the bodies, and the great labour of making the funeral robes in which they
+were folded, they must have been of the 'blood-royal,' or personages of
+great consideration in their day. The person that I saw, had evidently
+died by a blow on the skull. The blood had coagulated there into a mass,
+of a texture and colour sufficiently marked to shew that it had been
+blood. The envelope of the body was double. Two splendid blankets,
+completely woven with the most beautiful feathers of the wild turkey,
+arranged in regular stripes and compartments, encircled it. The cloth on
+which these feathers were woven, was a kind of linen of neat texture, of
+the same kind with that which is now woven from the fibres of the nettle.
+The body was evidently that of a female of middle age, and I should
+suppose that her majesty weighed, when I saw her, six or eight pounds."
+
+The silly attempts that have been made to establish an oriental origin for
+the North American Indians, have never produced any other conviction in an
+unbiased mind, than that the _facts_ brought forward to support that
+theory existed only in the imaginations of those who advanced them. The
+colour, the form, the manners, habits, and propensities of the Indians,
+all combine to establish that they are a distinct race of human beings,
+and could never have emanated from any people of European, Asiatic, or
+African origin. The notion that climate would be sufficient to produce an
+essential change in the appearance of any number of individuals, cannot
+now be maintained; since from the discovery of America, Europeans,
+Africans, and Indians have inhabited all regions of this vast continent,
+without undergoing the slightest characteristic change from the
+descendants of the original stock, who have remained in their primitive
+locations. The Power that induces the existence of plants and lower
+animals indigenous to the different sections of the earth, seems also to
+induce the existence of a race of men peculiar to the regions in which
+they are found.
+
+The languages of America are radically different from those of the old
+world; and no similitude can be traced between the tongues of the red
+men, and those of any other people hitherto known. Jarvis, in his Paper on
+the Religion of the Indian Tribes of North America, says, "The best
+informed writers agree, that there are, exclusive of the Karalit or
+Esquimaux, three radical languages spoken by the Indians of North America.
+Mr. Heckwelder denominates them the Iroquois, the Lenape, and the
+Floridian. The Iroquois is spoken by the Six Nations, the Wyandots, or
+Hurons, the Nandowessies, the Assiniboils, and other tribes beyond the St.
+Lawrence. The Lenape, which is the most widely extended language on this
+side the Mississippi, was spoken by the tribes now extinct, who formerly
+inhabited Nova Scotia and the present state of Maine, the Abenakis,
+Micmacs, Canibas, Openangos, Soccokis, Etchemins, and Souriquois; dialects
+of it are now spoken by the Miamis, the Potawatomies, Missisangoes, and
+Kickapoos; the Eonestogas, Nanticokes, Shawanese, and Mohicans; the
+Algonquins, Knisteneaux, and Chippeways. The Floridian includes the
+languages of the Creeks, or Muskohgees, Chickesaws, Choctaws, Pascagoulas,
+Cherokees, Seminolese, and several other tribes in the southern states and
+Florida. These three languages are primitive; that is to say, are so
+distinct as to have no perceivable affinity. All, therefore, cannot be
+derived from the Hebrew; for it is a contradiction in terms to speak of
+three languages radically different, as derived from a common source.
+Which, then, we may well ask, is to be selected as the posterity of the
+Israelites: the Iroquois, the Lenape, or the southern Indians?
+
+"Besides, there is one striking peculiarity in the construction of
+American languages, which has no counterpart in the Hebrew. Instead of the
+ordinary division of genders, they divide into animate and inanimate. It
+is impossible to conceive that any nation, in whatever circumstances they
+might be placed, could depart in so remarkable a manner from the idioms of
+their native language."
+
+M. Duponceau, a Frenchman settled at Philadelphia, who is perhaps one of
+the first philologists of the age, concludes a treatise on the same
+subject with the following deductions:
+
+1.--"That the American languages, in general, are rich in words and in
+grammatical forms; and that in their complicated construction, the
+greatest order, method, and regularity prevail."
+
+2.--"That these complicated forms, which I call polysinthetic, appear to
+exist in all those languages, from Greenland to Cape Horn."[8]
+
+3.--"That these forms appear to differ essentially from those of the
+ancient and modern languages of the old hemisphere."
+
+We intended to proceed direct from the banks of the Mississippi to
+Edwardsville, which lies in a north-easterly direction from St. Louis, but
+unfortunately got on the wrong track, an occurrence by no means uncommon
+on the prairies, and by this casualty visited Troy, a _town_ containing
+two houses, namely, a "groggery," and a farm-house, both owned by the one
+person. The only resemblance this trans-Atlantic Ilium can possibly bear
+to the city of the ten years' siege, lies in the difficulty of
+ascertaining its location; for had we not been informed that here stood
+the town of Troy, we should have passed through this, as we did through
+many others, without ever suspecting the fact. Town-making is quite a
+speculation in the western country; and the first thing a man does after
+purchasing a few hundred acres of ground, is to "lay off a town lot:" this
+causes the maps to be studded with little circular dots, and great big
+names attached to them, which would lead one to suppose the population to
+be much greater than it is in reality.
+
+From Edwardsville, we proceeded by Ripley and Greenville, to Vandalia, the
+seat of government of the state.
+
+The prairies had lost much of the brilliant green colour which they
+possessed when we before crossed them, and they were now assuming rather a
+burnt appearance. Towards the close of autumn the grass generally becomes
+so dry as to be easily ignited, which formerly took place by accident, or
+otherwise, almost every year. The sight must be grand indeed; and we
+almost regretted that we were not so fortunate as to be in danger of being
+burnt alive--the sight would be worth the risk. There is a penalty
+attached to the firing of the woods or prairies, as the plantations are
+now becoming too numerously scattered over the country, and property is
+likely to be injured by these conflagrations.
+
+Towards the latter end of October, the season peculiar to this country,
+denominated the "Indian summer," commences, and lasts for some weeks. At
+this period, the atmosphere is suffused with a vapour which at a distance
+has the appearance of smoke, arising as it were from fires in the forest.
+The air is always calm and mild on those days, and the sun's disk assumes
+a broad, reddish appearance.
+
+Vandalia is the capital of Illinois, and is seated on the Kaskaskia river,
+which is only navigable to this point during the "freshets" in autumn and
+spring. The positions of the capitals are chosen for their centrality
+alone, and not with reference to any local advantages they may possess.
+
+Illinois is a free state, and its constitution is but a counterpart of
+those of Ohio and Indiana. The extent is 380 miles from north to south,
+and about 140 miles from east to west: area, 52,000 square miles, or
+33,280,000 acres. The population in 1810, was 12,282; in 1820, 55,211:
+white males, 29,401; white females, 24,387; slaves, 917; militia in 1821,
+2,031. The present population is, according to the last census, 157,575.
+The increase within the last ten years has been nearly 186 per cent.
+
+This state is better circumstanced than any other in the west. It is
+bounded on the north by the north-west territory; on the south by the
+Ohio; on the east by the Wabash and Lake Michigan; and on the west by the
+Mississippi. The Illinois river is navigable at almost all seasons to very
+nearly its head waters; and by means of a very short portage a
+communication is established between it and Lake Michigan. A canal is
+contemplated between this lake and the Wabash.
+
+The heath-hen (_tetrao cupido_), or as it is here called, the
+'Prairie-hen,' abounds on the prairies, particularly in the neighbourhood
+of barrens. This species of grouse, I believe, is not to be met with in
+Europe; nor has it been accurately described by any ornithologist before
+Wilson. One habit of the male of this bird is remarkable: at the season of
+incubation, the cocks assemble every morning just before day-break,
+outside the wood, and there exercise themselves tilting until the sun
+appears, when they disperse. Hunters have not failed to note the
+circumstance, and take advantage of it.
+
+We were frequently amused with the movements of the "Turkey buzzard"
+(_vultur aura_). This bird is well known in the southern and western
+states; and in the former is considered of so much utility that a penalty
+is inflicted on any person who may wantonly destroy it. It is perfectly
+harmless, never attacking even the smallest living animal, and seems
+always to prefer carrion when in a state of putrefaction. Except when
+rising from the ground, the buzzard never flaps its wings, but literally
+floats through the atmosphere, forming graceful ogees.
+
+During our journeys across Illinois, we passed several large bodies of
+settlers on their way to Sangamon and Morgan counties in that state. These
+counties are situated on the Illinois river, and are said to be fertile
+tracts. The mass of those persons were Georgians, Virginians, and
+Kentuckians, whose comparative poverty rendered their residence in slave
+states unpleasant.
+
+Perhaps there is nothing more remarkable in the character of the Americans
+than the indifference with which they leave their old habitations,
+friends, and relations. Each individual is taught to depend mainly on his
+own exertions, and therefore seldom expects or requires extraordinary
+assistance from any man. Attachments seldom exist here beyond that of
+ordinary acquaintances--these are easily found wherever one may go,
+arising from a variety of circumstances connected with their institutions
+and their necessities; and thus one of the great objections that present
+themselves to change with Europeans scarcely exists here. Observe, I apply
+this remark more particularly to the western and southern states; for the
+eastern states being longer settled and more thickly populated, these
+feelings, although they exist, yet they do so in a more modified degree.
+
+The appearance presented by the forests at this season is very
+beautiful--the trees are covered with leaves of almost every colour, from
+bright crimson to nearly snow-white; the admixture of green, brown,
+yellow, scarlet, &c., such as is almost peculiar to an American forest,
+produces a very pleasing combination.
+
+We again reached Albion, and retraced our steps from thence to Harmony,
+where we deposited our friend B----; and after having remained there for a
+few days to refresh ourselves and horse, set forward for Ohio. The weather
+had now become unfavourable, and the frequent rains and high winds were
+shaking the leaves down in myriads--the entire of our journey through
+Indiana being across forests, we were under one constant shower of leaves
+from Harmony to Cincinnati.
+
+One day while getting our horse fed at a tavern in Indiana, the following
+conversation took place between the persons there assembled. We were
+sitting at the door, surrounded by captains, lawyers, and squires, when
+one of the gentlemen demanded of another if there had not been a "gouging
+scrape" at the "Colonel's tavern" the evening before. He replied in the
+affirmative; and after having related the cause of quarrel, and said that
+the lie had been given, he continued, "the judge knocked the major right
+over, and jumped on to him in double quick time--they had it rough and
+tumble for about ten minutes--Lord J---s Alm----y!--as pretty a scrape as
+ever you _see'd_--the judge is a wonderfully lovely fellow." Then followed
+a description of the divers punishments inflicted by the combatants on
+each other--the major had his eye nearly "gouged" out, and the judge his
+chin almost bitten off. During the recital, the whole party was convulsed
+with laughter--in which we joined most heartily.
+
+We of course returned by a different route through Indiana, passing from
+Princeton to Portersville, and from thence through Paoli, Salem, and New
+Lexington, to Madison. The country about Madison is hilly and broken,
+which makes travelling tedious in the extreme. From the mouth of the Big
+Miami to Blue river, a range of hills runs parallel to the Ohio,
+alternately approaching to within a few perches of the river, and receding
+to a distance of one to two miles. Below Blue river the hills disappear,
+and the land becomes level and heavily timbered. There is also another
+range of hills, extending from the Falls of Ohio to the Wabash in a
+south-westerly direction, which are called the "knobs:" to the west of
+these are the "flats;" and from the Wabash to lake Michigan the country is
+champaign.
+
+Indianopolis is the capital of Indiana, and is seated on the White river.
+This state averages about 270 miles from north to south, and 144 miles
+from east to west: area, 37,000 square miles, or 23,680,000 acres. The
+population in 1810, was 24,520--in 1820, 147,178: white males, 79,919;
+white females, 69,107; slaves, 190; militia in 1821, 14,990. The present
+population is 341,582.
+
+Vast quantities of hogs are bred in the state of Indiana, and are suffered
+to rove at large in the forests in search of mast. They are in general
+perfectly wild, and when encountered suddenly bristle up like an enraged
+porcupine. Their legs are long; bodies thin; and tail lengthy and
+straight. I was informed that if one of those animals be wounded, its
+screams will draw an immense concourse of its brethren around it, and that
+the situation of a person under these circumstances, is by no means void
+of danger; as they will not fail to attack him _en masse_. We were once
+very nigh getting into a scrape of this description. Driving along through
+the forest, we had to pass a tract covered with a thick growth of
+brushwood--my friend seeing something stirring among the bushes, drew up,
+and taking it for a deer, called out to me to fire--I stood up in the
+vehicle, and levelled where I saw the movement, when, lo! out starts a
+bristling hog, with a grunt just in time to escape with a whole skin.
+
+One night having been accidently separated from my fellow-traveller, I had
+to stay in a miserable-looking hut close to a creek, the habitation of a
+backwoodsman. This person's appearance was extremely unprepossessing. The
+air of ferocity and wildness which characterized his countenance, added to
+his unhealthy, cadaverous aspect, would have been sufficient in any other
+country to make one feel unpleasant at passing the night alone under his
+roof. He resided in this unhealthy situation, because the land was
+extremely fertile; but stated that every fall some one of his family was
+ill, and none of them enjoyed good health. Now when we summed up the
+consequent loss of labour incident to ill health, the balance of profit
+seemed to be greatly against bottom land, and much in favour of the
+healthful prairies.
+
+The farmers use, almost exclusively, the sugar of the maple (_acer
+saccharinum_) which they manufacture themselves. The space in which a
+number of these trees are found, they call a "sugar camp." The process of
+manufacturing is as follows:--After the first frost, the trees are tapped,
+by perforating the trunk in an ascending direction. A spout of alder is
+inserted in the perforation, and the sap drips through this conduit into a
+trough of wood. The sap is then boiled with a spoonful of slacked lime,
+the white of an egg or two, and about a pint of milk, to every fifteen
+gallons. An ordinary tree commonly gives four pounds of good coarse brown
+sugar, which when refined can be made equal to superior lump sugar.
+
+A great portion of the roads through which we passed were mere horse
+paths, full of stumps, with shrubs entangled across them so thickly, that
+we were often obliged to dismount in order to cut away part of the
+impediment. Large trees which have fallen across the road, frequently
+intercept your passage, and you have no alternative but to lift the wheels
+of the vehicle over them.
+
+As we approached Cincinnati the difficulty of travelling became greatly
+augmented. The rains had cut up the roads into ravines, sometimes full
+three feet in depth, which, added to the clayey nature of the soil,
+completely exhausted the horse, and rendered him incapable of proceeding
+faster than a slow walk, even with the empty carriage.
+
+There are a number of Baptists residing at Cincinnati, who frequently
+entertain the inhabitants with public baptisms in the Ohio river. At one
+of those ceremonies, about this time, rather a ludicrous occurrence took
+place. The baptizing preacher stands up to his middle in the water, and
+the person to be baptized is led to him by another preacher. On this
+occasion the officiating clergyman was rather a slight man, and the lady
+to be baptized was extremely large and corpulent--he took her by the
+hands to perform the immersion, but notwithstanding his most strenuous
+exertions, he was thrown off his centre. She finding him yield, held
+still harder, until they both sowsed completely under the water, where
+they lay floundering and struggling for some time, amidst the shouts and
+laughter of the multitude assembled on shore. At length their brethren
+extricated them from this perilous situation.
+
+FOOTNOTES:
+
+[8] M. Duponceau adduces the following examples: "In the Arancanian
+language the word '_idnancloclavin_' means 'I do not wish to eat with
+him.' There is a similar verb in the Delaware tongue--'_n'schingiwipona_,'
+which means 'I do not like to eat with him.' To which may be added another
+example in the latter tongue--'_machtitschwanne_,'--this must be
+translated 'a cluster of islands with channels every way, so that it is
+in no place shut up, or impassable for craft.' This term is applied to the
+islands in the bay of New York."
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER VII.
+
+
+The weather having become cold and disagreeable towards the latter end of
+December, I set out for New Orleans. The larger class of steam-boats lay
+then at Shippingsport, immediately below the falls of Ohio, the river not
+being sufficiently high to enable them to pass over those rapids. Boats
+drawing from nineteen to twenty-six inches water can almost at all seasons
+ply on the Upper Ohio, and during the periods that the large boats are
+detained below the Falls, they are constantly employed in transporting
+produce, intended for the markets on the Mississippi, to Louisville, from
+whence it is drayed round to Shippingsport and re-shipped. Flat-boats are
+also employed for this purpose, and they are preferred, as they pass over
+the Falls, and thus land-carriage is avoided.
+
+Louisville is the chief town of Jefferson county, in Kentucky, and at
+present it is estimated to contain about 12,000 inhabitants, including
+slaves and free people of colour. The store-keepers here are more wealthy
+than those of Cincinnati, and their manners less disagreeable. The
+inhabitants of the latter town being mostly from the New England states,
+have in their dealings and manners that dry shrewdness which is the true
+Yankee characteristic. There are also located in Cincinnati some Irish
+pedlars, who have by all manner of means acquired wealth, and are now the
+"biggest bugs"[9] in the place.
+
+The public buildings of Louisville are few, and the streets are laid out
+in the usual style, crossing each other at right angles. It contains a
+few good brick dwelling-houses, and a number of excellent hack-carriages
+are stationed near the steam-boat landing. A canal round the Falls, from
+Beargrass-creek to Shippingsport, is being constructed, which will enable
+steam-boats of the largest tonnage to pass through; and thus it will open
+an uninterrupted intercourse between the Upper and Lower Ohio, and the
+Mississippi. The length of this canal is about two and a half miles, and
+the original estimate was 200,000 dollars, but this sum has been found
+insufficient.
+
+At Louisville I took a berth on board a boat for New Orleans. The
+steam-boats on the Mississippi are large, and splendidly appointed; the
+interior has more the appearance of a well fitted up dining-room than the
+cabin of a boat. The charge is twenty-five dollars, for which you are
+found in every thing except liquors. Meats, fowls, vegetables, fruits,
+preserves, &c., are served in abundance, and of the very best quality.
+Here you may see tradesmen, "nigger traders," farmers, "congress men,"
+captains, generals, and judges, all seated at the same table, in true
+republican simplicity. There is no appearance of awkwardness in the
+behaviour of the humblest person you see seated at those tables; and
+indeed their general good conduct is remarkable--I mean when contrasted
+with that of the same class in England. The truth is, the tradesman here
+finds himself of some importance in the scale of society, and endeavours
+to show that he is fully qualified to be seated at the same table, _en
+passant_, with the most wealthy citizen. No doubt the higher classes have
+some of that high polish rubbed off by these occasional contacts with
+their less-civilized fellow citizens; but the humbler classes decidedly
+gain what _they_ lose. All dress well, and are _American_ gentlemen.
+
+The Ohio is formed by the junction of the Alleghany and Monongahela rivers
+at Pittsburg, that town being seated in the fork--its breadth there, is
+between eight and nine hundred yards. From the mouths of those two rivers
+it narrows and deepens for some distance; but afterwards, from the
+accession of the many tributary streams by which it is supplied, gradually
+becomes wider and deeper, until it empties itself into the Mississippi.
+The length of the Ohio, following its meanders, is about 950 miles, and it
+may be said to be navigable almost the entire year, as the water must be
+unusually low when the smaller steam-boats cannot ply to Pittsburg. The
+character of this river is somewhat peculiar. But for the improvements on
+the banks, when you have seen six or eight miles of this stream, you are
+acquainted with the remainder as far as the Falls--that is to say, any
+variety that may be in the scenery will occur in any given six miles from
+Pittsburg to that point. Below Louisville there are one or two rocky
+bluffs, and the face of the country is somewhat different. The channel of
+the Upper Ohio lies between hills, which frequently approach the
+_mamelle_ form, and are covered with a heavy growth of timber. Where the
+hills or bluffs do not rise immediately from the river, but recede some
+distance, the space between the river and the hill is called bottom land,
+from the circumstance of its being overflown annually; or having at some
+former period formed part of the river's bed, which is indicated by the
+nature of the soil. The bluffs and bottoms invariably alternate; and when
+you have bluffs on one side, you are sure to have bottom on the other. The
+windings are extremely uniform, with few exceptions, curving in a
+serpentine form in so regular a manner, that the Indians always calculated
+the distance by the number of bends.
+
+"The Falls" are improperly so termed, as this obstruction is nothing more
+than a gradual descent for a distance of about a mile and a half, where
+the water, forcing its way over a rugged rocky bottom, presents the
+appearance of a rapid. Below this the country is of various
+aspects--hills, bottom-land, and high rocky bluffs; and towards the mouth,
+cotton-wood trees, (_populus angulata_), and cane brakes, are interspersed
+along the banks. The junction of these two noble rivers, the Ohio and
+Mississippi, is really a splendid sight--the scenery is picturesque, and
+the water at the point of union is fully two miles broad.
+
+The Mississippi[10] is in length, from its head waters to the _balize_ in
+the gulf of Mexico, about two thousand three hundred miles, and flows
+through an immense variety of country. The section through which it
+passes, before its junction with the Missouri, is represented as being
+elegantly diversified with woodlands, prairies, and rich bottoms, and the
+banks are lined with a luxuriant growth of plants and flowers. Before
+reaching the Missouri, the water of the Mississippi is perfectly limpid;
+but, from the mouth of that river it becomes turgid and muddy--flows
+through a flat, inundated country, and seems more like an immense flood,
+than an old and deep-channelled river. As far as great things can be
+compared to small, it much resembles, within its banks, the Rhone when
+flooded, as it sweeps through the department of Vaucluse, after its
+junction with the Saone.
+
+From St. Louis to New Orleans, a distance of twelve hundred miles, there
+are but six elevated points--the four Chickesaw bluffs, the Iron banks,
+and the Walnut hills. Numerous islands are interspersed through this
+river; and from the mouth of the Ohio, tall cotton-wood trees and
+cane-brakes grow in immense quantities along the banks; the latter, being
+evergreens, have a pleasing effect in the winter season. The windings of
+the Mississippi are, like those of the Ohio, constant, but not so
+serpentine, and some of them are of immense magnitude. You traverse every
+point of the compass in your passage up or down: for example, there is a
+bend near _Bayou Placquamine_, the length of which by the water is upwards
+of sixty miles, and from one point to the other across the distance is but
+three.
+
+The town of "Baton Rouge" is situated about 190 miles above New Orleans,
+and contains a small garrison;--the esplanade runs down to the
+water's-edge, and the whole has a pretty effect. Here the sugar
+plantations commence, and the face of the country is again changed--you
+find yourself in the regions of the south. For a distance of from
+half-a-mile to two miles back, at each side, the land is planted with
+sugar-canes, and highly cultivated. The planters' houses are tastefully
+built, surrounded by gardens full of orange-trees, flowers, and
+evergreens, presenting the idea of perpetual spring, which here is indeed
+the case. The winters are seldom more severe than a mild spring in
+England. I first came in on this region at night, at the season of
+planting, when the cast or used canes are burned in heaps on each
+plantation. The dark turgid waters--the distant fires, surrounded by
+clouds of white smoke ascending in winding columns to the skies--the
+stillness of the night, interrupted only by the occasional cry of the
+pelican or the crane, and the monotonous thumping of the steam-boat
+paddles, formed a strange combination; and had the days of witches and
+warlocks not long since passed away, one would have sworn that these
+gentry were performing incantations over the mystic cauldrons, casting
+"seven bullets," or "raising spirits from the vasty deep."
+
+The Mississippi is in few places more than from half-a-mile to a mile
+wide; and were one to judge of its magnitude by its breadth alone, a very
+erroneous estimate would be formed. It is only by contemplating the many
+vast rivers which empty themselves into the Mississippi that you can form
+a correct idea of the immense volume of water that flows through this
+channel into the Gulf of Mexico. Many of its larger tributary streams
+have the appearance of being as great as itself--the depth alone
+indicating the superiority of this mighty river over every other in
+America; and, considering its length, perhaps over any other in the world.
+
+The great valley of the Mississippi extends, in length, from the Gulf of
+Mexico to a distance of nearly 3000 miles; and is in breadth, from the
+base of the Alleghanies to the foot of the Rocky mountains, about 2,500
+miles. The soil is composed of alluvial deposits, to a depth of from
+twenty to fifty feet; and I have myself seen, near New Orleans, trees
+lying in the horizontal position six or seven feet below the surface. This
+valley has been frequently visited by earthquakes, which have sometimes
+changed part of the channel of the river, and at others formed lakes.
+Those which occurred between the years 1811 and 1813, did serious injury,
+particularly in the neighbourhood of New Madrid, near the west bank,
+below the mouth of the Ohio. At several points the bank is sunk eight or
+ten feet below the surface of the adjacent ground, with the trees
+remaining upright as before.
+
+New Orleans is seated on the south-east bank of the Mississippi; and,
+following the sinuosities of the current, about 109 miles from the Gulf of
+Mexico. The river takes here a right-angular sweep, and the city proper is
+built on the exterior point of the bend, the _fauxbourgs_ extending at
+each side along the banks. At high water the river rises three feet above
+any part of the city; consequently, were it not for levees that have been
+constructed here, and also along the banks of the river for more than a
+hundred miles, at both sides, above and below, the whole country would be
+periodically inundated. The fall from the levee to Bayou St. John, which
+communicates with _Lac Pontchartrain_, is about thirty feet, and the
+distance one mile. This fall is certainly inconsiderable; but I apprehend
+that it would be sufficient to drain the streets effectually, if proper
+attention were directed to that object.
+
+The city extends only half-a-mile back, and, including the _fauxbourgs_,
+about two miles along the river. The streets, being only partially paved,
+can never be perfectly cleaned, and stagnant water remains in the kennels
+at all seasons; this and the exhalations from the swamps in warm weather,
+produce that pestilential scourge with which the place is annually
+afflicted. The mortality here last season (the autumn of 1829) has been
+variously stated in the public prints at from five to seven thousand, who
+died of the yellow fever in the space of about ten weeks. This statement,
+however, is erroneous; as, from information which I received from the
+sexton of the American grave-yard, and from the number of fresh graves
+which I saw there, I am inclined to think that the total amount falls
+short of 2500, out of a resident population of less than 40,000 souls.
+About 700 were buried in the American grave-yard, and perhaps double that
+number in that of the French.
+
+The port of New Orleans presents the most extraordinary medley of any port
+in the world. Craft of every possible variety may be seen moored along the
+levees, and the markets and adjacent streets crowded with people of almost
+every nation in Europe, Africa, and America, who create a frightful
+confusion of tongues. A particular part of the quay is appropriated to
+each description of craft, and a penalty is enforced for any deviation
+from port regulations. The upper part is occupied with flat-boats, arks,
+peeroges, rafts, keel-boats, canoes, and steam-boats; and below these are
+stationed schooners, cutters, brigs, ships, &c., in regular succession.
+The levee is almost constantly filled with merchandize; and the scene of
+bustle and confusion which is exhibited here during the early part of the
+day, fully proves the large amount of commercial intercourse which this
+city enjoys.
+
+When Louisiana was ceded to the United States, in 1803, Orleans was then
+entirely occupied by Creole-French and Spanish, consequently the majority
+of the habitations and public buildings, are in the French and Spanish
+style. The cathedral, which presents a handsome facade of about seventy
+feet, the town-hall, and courts, occupy one side of the _place
+d'armes,_--these, with the American theatre, the _theatre d'Orleans,_ or
+French opera house, the hospital, and three or four churches, are the only
+public buildings in the city. The houses are all flat-roofed, and those in
+the back streets and fauxbourgs are seldom more than one story high; the
+practice of building houses in this manner was pursued in order to avoid
+injury from tornadoes, which occasionally visit the valley of the
+Mississippi; latterly they have not been of frequent occurrence, although
+when they do arise, they are extremely violent. The town of Urbana, in
+Ohio, this year (1830) has been nearly destroyed by a visitation of this
+nature.
+
+Pharo-banks, roulette-tables, and gambling of all kinds, are publicly
+permitted; but the proprietor of each establishment pays a tax of 5000
+dollars per annum. The _theatre d'Orleans_ on Sunday evenings, is
+generally crowded with beautiful French women. Every night during the
+winter season there is a _bal pare et masque_, and occasionally "quadroon
+balls," which are attended by the young men of the city and their _cheres
+amies_ quadroons, who are decidedly the finest women in the country, being
+well formed, and graceful in their carriage. The Louisianians are
+prohibited by law from marrying with quadroons, although this _caste_ is
+free, and many of them have been educated in France, and are highly
+accomplished.
+
+In the south, slavery exists in its most unqualified condition, wanting
+those milder modifications which serve to dress and decorate the person of
+this ugly fiend. Here may be seen hundreds of animals of our own genus
+exposed in the public bazaars for sale, and examined with as much care,
+and precisely in the same manner, as we examine horses. In some of the
+slave states the law prohibits the separation of families, but this
+prohibition is little attended to, as the slave has no possibility of
+coming in contact with any dispensers of justice but the magistrates of
+the state, who, being slave-holders themselves, instead of redressing his
+grievances, would be more likely to order him a lashing, for presuming to
+complain. Many melancholy instances occur here, which clearly illustrate
+the evils of slavery and its demoralizing influence on the human
+character. The arguments against slavery are deduced from self-evident
+propositions, and must carry conviction to every well organized mind; yet
+from their application being of too general a character, they seldom
+interest the feelings, and in the end leave less impression than the
+simple statement of a particular occurrence. During my stay, a Doctor
+---- came down the river with thirty slaves, among which were an old negro
+and negress, each between sixty and seventy years of age; this unfortunate
+old woman had borne twenty-one children, all of whom had been at different
+times sold in the Orleans market, and carried into other states, and into
+distant parts of Louisiana. The Doctor said, in order to induce her to
+leave home quietly, that he was bringing her into Louisiana for the
+purpose of placing her with some of her children--"and now," says the old
+negress, "aldo I suckle my massa at dis breast, yet now he sell me to
+sugar planter, after he sell all my children away from me." This gentleman
+was a strict Methodist, or "saint," and is, I was informed, much esteemed
+by the preachers of that persuasion, because of his liberal contributions
+to their support.
+
+Negresses, when young and likely, are often employed as wet nurses by
+white people, as also by either the planter or his friends, to administer
+to their sensual desires--this frequently as a matter of speculation, for
+if the offspring, a mulatto, be a handsome female, from 800 to 1000
+dollars may be obtained for her in the Orleans market.[11] It is an
+occurrence of no uncommon nature to see the Christian father sell his own
+daughter, and the brother his own sister, by the same father. Slaves do
+not marry, but pair at discretion; and the more children they produce, the
+better for their masters.
+
+On the Levee at New Orleans, are constantly exhibited specimens of the
+white man's humanity, in the persons of runaway slaves. When such an
+unfortunate negro is retaken, a log is chained to one of his legs, and
+round his neck is placed an iron collar, from which project three sharp
+prongs more than a foot in length each.
+
+The evils of this infernal system are beginning to re-act upon the
+Christians, who are latterly kept in a constant state of alarm, fearing
+the number and disposition of the blacks, which threaten at no far distant
+period to overwhelm the south with some dreadful calamity.[12] Three
+incendiary fires took place at Orleans, during the month I remained in
+that city, by which several thousand bales of cotton were consumed. The
+condition of the slaves on the sugar or rice plantations, is truly
+wretched. They are ill-fed, ill-clad, and worked in gangs under the
+superintendence of a driver, who is armed with a long whip, which he uses
+at discretion; and it is a fact, well known to persons who have visited
+slave countries, that punishments are more frequently inflicted to gratify
+the private pique or caprice of the driver, than for crime or neglect of
+duty.
+
+In the agricultural states, slave labour is found to be altogether
+unproductive, which causes this market to be inundated:--within the last
+two months, 5000 negros have been sold here. The state legislature has
+just passed a law, regulating the introduction of slaves, and commanding
+all free people of colour, who were not residents previous to 1825, to
+quit Louisiana in the space of six months. Georgia has enacted a law to
+the same effect, with the addition of making penal, _the teaching of
+people of colour to read or write_. The liberty of the press is by no
+means tolerated in the slave states, as both judges and juries will always
+decide according to the local laws, although totally at variance with the
+constitution. W.L. Garrison, of Baltimore, one of the editors of a
+publication entitled, "The Genius of Universal Emancipation," is now
+suffering fine and imprisonment for an alleged libel, at the suit of a
+slavite; and a law has been passed by the legislature of Louisiana,
+suppressing the Orleans journal called "The Liberal." This latter act is
+not only contrary to the constitution of the United States, but also in
+direct opposition to the constitution of Louisiana.[13]
+
+The free states in their own defence have been obliged to prohibit people
+of colour settling within their boundaries. Where then can the unfortunate
+African find a retreat? He must not stay in this country, and he cannot
+go to Africa; and although the British government are encouraging the
+settlement of negros in the Canadas, yet latterly, neither the Canadians
+nor the Americans like that project. The most probable finale to this
+drama will be, that the Christians must at their own expense ship them to
+Liberia (for Hayti is inundated), and there throw them on barren shores to
+die of starvation, or to be massacred by the savages!
+
+Miss Wright lately passed through New Orleans with thirty negros which she
+had manumitted, and was then going to establish them at Hayti. These
+slaves had been purchased at reduced prices, from persons friendly to
+their emancipation, and were kept by Miss Wright until their labour,
+allowing them a fair remuneration, amounted to the prime outlay.
+
+Were it not for the danger that might be apprehended from the congregation
+of large bodies of negros in particular states or districts, their
+liberation would be attended with little inconvenience _to the public_,
+for their labour might be as effectually secured, and made quite as
+profitable, under a system of well-regulated emancipation. We need only
+refer to England for a case in point:--after the conquest and total
+subjugation of the people of that country by the ancestors of the
+nobility, the gallant Normans, the feudal system was introduced, and
+remained in full vigour for some centuries. But, as the country became
+more populous, and the attendance of the knights and barons in parliament
+became more frequent and necessary, we find villanage gradually fall into
+disrepute. The last laws regulating this species of slavery were passed in
+the reign of Henry VII; and towards the end of Elizabeth's reign, although
+the statutes remained unrepealed, as they do still, yet there were no
+persons in the state to whom the laws applied. It cannot be denied that
+the labour of the poor English is as effectually secured under the present
+arrangements, as it could possibly be under the system of villanage.
+
+I look upon slaves as public securities; and I am of opinion, that a
+legislature's enacting laws for their emancipation, is as flagrant a piece
+of injustice as would be the cancelling of the public debt. Slave-holders
+are only share-holders; and philanthropists should never talk of
+liberating slaves, more than cancelling public securities, without being
+prepared to indemnify those persons who unfortunately have their capital
+invested in this species of property.
+
+As many varieties of countenance are to be found among blacks as among
+whites. There are Africans in this city who have really handsome features,
+and whose proportions are just, with strong and finely rounded limbs. On
+becoming more intimate with the general character of the Africans, I like
+it better: I find they steal, cheat, and hate their masters; and if they
+were to do otherwise I should think them unworthy of liberty--they justly
+consider whatever they take to be but a portion of their own. The policy
+is to keep them as much as possible in utter ignorance--that their
+indignation should therefore develope itself in the most degrading manner,
+is not surprising.
+
+There are two public schools established at New Orleans, which are
+supported out of the fund arising from five gaming-houses, they paying a
+tax of 25,000 dollars per annum. These schools are conducted on the
+Lancastrian system, each having a Principal and a Professor, and the
+studies are divided into daily sessions. The morning session is devoted to
+reading, spelling, arithmetic, and English grammar; commences at nine
+A.M., and closes at one P.M. The evening session commences at three, and
+ends at five o'clock; and is devoted to penmanship, geography, and the
+French language. This is the arrangement of the English primary school,
+which is kept in the Old Poydras House, Poydras-street, in the upper part
+of the city; and is called the Upper Primary School, to distinguish it
+from the French establishment, which is kept in the lower part of the
+city. The English school has an English principal, and a French professor;
+and the French school, a French principal and an English professor. Dr.
+Kinnicutt, the principal of the Upper Primary School, is a gentleman of
+considerable ability, and to his friendly politeness I am indebted for the
+above information.
+
+The ravages of the yellow fever in New Orleans are immense; but I am
+credibly informed that many deaths occur here from neglect after the fever
+has subsided, when the patient is in a totally debilitated condition,
+incapable of affording himself the slightest assistance. Orleans is
+generally crowded with strangers, who are most susceptible to the
+epidemic; and it is decidedly the interest of persons keeping hotels and
+boarding-houses that such guests should give up the ghost, for in that
+case their loose cash falls into the hands of the proprietor. I do not
+mean to insinuate that a knife is passed across the throat of the
+patient; but merely that it is the opinion of physicians, and some of the
+most respectable people of the city, that every _facility_ is afforded
+strangers to die, and that in many cases they actually die of gross
+neglect.
+
+The wealthy merchants live well, keep handsome establishments, and good
+wines. The Sardanapalian motto, "Laugh, sing, dance, and be merry," seems
+to be universally adopted in this "City of the Plague." The planters' and
+merchants' villas immediately in the vicinity are extremely tasteful, and
+are surrounded by large parterres filled with plantain, banana, palm,
+orange, and rose trees. On the whole, were it not for its unhealthiness,
+Orleans would be a most desirable residence, and the largest city in the
+United States, as it is most decidedly the best circumstanced in a
+commercial point of view.
+
+The question of the purchase of Texas from the Mexican government has been
+widely mooted throughout the country, and in the slave districts it has
+many violent partizans. The acquisition of this immense tract of fertile
+country would give an undue preponderance to the slave states, and this
+circumstance alone has prevented its purchase from being universally
+approved of; for the grasping policy of the American system seems to
+animate both congress and legislatures in all their acts. The Americans
+commenced their operations in true Yankee style. The first settlement made
+was by a person named Austin, under a large grant from the Mexican
+government. Then "pioneers," under the denomination of "explorers," began
+gradually to take possession of the country, and carry on commercial
+negotiations without the assent of the government. This was followed by
+the public prints taking up the question, and setting forth the immense
+value of the country, and the consequent advantages that would arise to
+the United States from its acquisition. The settlers excited movements,
+and caused discontent and dissatisfaction among the legitimate owners; and
+at their instigation, insurrections of the Indians took place, which
+greatly embarrassed the government. At this stage of the affair, Mr.
+Poinsett, the American minister, commenced his diplomatic manoeuvres in
+the city of Mexico--fomenting disaffection, encouraging parties, and
+otherwise interfering in the internal concerns of the country. He appears,
+however, to have carried his intrigues beyond the bounds of discretion, as
+they were discovered; and he consequently became so obnoxious to the
+government and people of Mexico, that Jackson found it necessary to recall
+him, and send a Colonel Butler in his stead, commissioned to offer
+5,000,000 dollars for the province of Texas.
+
+Mr. Poinsett's object in acting as he did, was that he might embarrass the
+government, and take advantage of some favourable crisis to drive a
+profitable bargain; or that, during some convulsion that would be likely
+to lead to a change, the expiring executive would be glad to grasp at his
+offer, and thereby a claim would be established on the country, which the
+United States would not readily relinquish. The policy of the British
+government suffering the Mexican republic to be bullied out of this
+province would be very questionable indeed, as the North Americans command
+at present quite enough of the Gulf of Mexico, and their overweening
+inclination to acquire extent of territory would render their proximity to
+the West Indian Islands rather dangerous; however, it would be much more
+advantageous to have the Mexicans as neighbours than the people of the
+United States.
+
+The Mexican secretary of state, Don Lucas Alaman, in a very able and
+elaborate report made to Congress, sets forth the ambitious designs of the
+American government, and the proceedings of its agents with regard to this
+province. He also recommends salutary measures for the purpose of
+retaining possession and preventing further encroachments; which the
+Congress seems to have taken into serious consideration, as very important
+resolutions have been adopted. The Congress has decreed, that hereafter
+the Texas is to be governed as a colony; and, except by special commission
+of the Governor, the immigration of persons _from the United States_, is
+strictly forbidden. So much at present for the efforts of the Americans to
+get possession of the Texas; and if the British government be alive to the
+interests of the nation, they never shall;--for, entertaining the hostile
+feelings that they do towards the British empire, their closer connexion
+with the West Indies would certainly not be desirable.
+
+FOOTNOTES:
+
+[9] A "big bug," is a great man, in the phraseology of the western
+country.
+
+[10] In the Indian tongue, _Meschacebe_--"old father of waters."
+
+[11] I have been informed by a gentleman who has resided in the English
+West Indian Islands, that he has known instances there of highly educated
+white women, young and unmarried, making black mothers suckle puppy
+lap-dogs for them.
+
+[12] Previous to my leaving America, a most extensive and well-organised
+conspiracy was discovered at Charleston, and several of the conspirators
+were executed. The whole black population of that town were to have risen
+on a certain day, and put their oppressors to death.
+
+[13]
+
+Extract from "The Liberal" of 19th March, 1830:--
+
+    "Constitution des Etats unis.
+
+    "Art. 1 er. des Amendments.
+
+    "Le Congres n'aura pas le droit de faire aucune loi pour abreger
+    la liberte de la parole ou de la presse, &c.
+
+    "Constitution de L'Etat de la Louisiane.
+
+    "Art. 6, v. 21.
+
+    "La presse sera libre a tous ceux qui entreprendront d'examiner les
+    procedures de la legislature ou aucune branche du gouvernement; et
+    aucune loi sera jamais faite pour abreger ses droits, &c.
+
+    "Loi faite par la legislature de l'Etat de la Louisiane.
+
+    "Acte pour punir les crime y mentiones et pour d'autre objets.
+
+    "Sect. 1ere. Il et decrete, &c. Que quiconque ecrira, imprimera,
+    publiera, ou repandra toute piece ayant une tendance a produire du
+    mecontentement parmi la population de couleur libre, ou de
+    l'insubordination parmi les esclaves de cet Etat, sera sur
+    conviction du fait, pardevant toute cour de juridiction competante
+    condamne a l'emprisonnement aux travaux forces pour la vie ou a la
+    peine de mort, a la discretion de la cour!!!!
+
+    "Sec. 2. Il est de plus decrete, que quiconque se servira
+    d'expressions dans un discours public prononce au barreau, au barre
+    des Judges, au Theatre, en chaire, ou dans tout lieu quelconque;
+    quiconque se servira d'expressions dans des conversations ou des
+    discours particulars, ou fera usage des signes ou fera des actions
+    ayant une tendance a produire du mecontentement parmi la
+    population de couleur libre ou a exciter a l'insubordination parmi
+    les esclaves de cet Etat; quiconque donnera sciemment la main a
+    apporter dans cet Etat aucun papier, brochure ou livre ayant la
+    meme tendance que dessus, sera, sur conviction, pardevant toute
+    cour de juridiction competante, condamne a l'emprisonnement aux
+    travaux forces pour un terme qui ne sera pas moindre de trois ans
+    et qui n'excedera pas vingt un ans, ou a la peine de mort a la
+    discretion de la cour!!!!
+
+    "Sec. 3. Il est de plus decrete, que seront considerees comme
+    illegales toute reunions de negres; mulatres ou autres personnes
+    de couleur libre dans le temples, les ecoles ou autres lieux pour
+    y apprendre a lire ou a ecrire: et les personnes qui se reuniront
+    ainsi; sur conviction du fait, pardevant toute cour de juridiction
+    competente, seront emprisonnees pour un terme qui ne sera pas
+    moindre d'un mois et qui n'excedera pas douze mois, a la
+    discretion!!!!
+
+    "Sec. 4. Il est de plus decrete, que toute personne dans cet etat
+    qui enseignera, permettra qu'on enseigne ou fera enseigner a lire
+    ou a ecrire a un esclave quelconque, sera, sur conviction du fait,
+    pardevant toute cour de juridiction competante, condamne a un
+    imprisonnement qui ne sera pas moindre d'un mois et n'excedera pas
+    douze mois!!!!"
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+    From the remarks of the same journal of the 23rd March, it would
+    appear that the third and fourth sections of this most enlightened
+    and Christian act have been rejected, as being "_too bad_."
+
+    "Nous avons lu la publication officielle de l'acte intitule: 'acte
+    pour empecher l'introduction des personnes de couleur libres dans
+    cet Etat, et pour d'autres objets.' Il est trop long pour que nous
+    puissons le publier, nous en donnons l'extrait suivant.
+
+    "1. Toute personne de couleur libre, qui sera rentree dans cet
+    etat depuis 1825, sera forcee d'en sortir.
+
+    "2. Aucune personne, de couleur libre, ne pourra a l'avenir
+    s'introduire dans cet etat sous aucun pretexte quelconque.
+
+    "3. Le blanc qui aura fait circuler des ecrits tendant a troubler
+    le repos public, ou censurant les actes de la legislature
+    concernant les esclaves ou les personnes de couleur libres, sera
+    puni rigoureusement.
+
+    "4. L'emancipation des esclaves est soumise a quantite de
+    formalites.
+
+    "Tous les noirs, grieffes et mulatres, au premier degre, libres,
+    sont obliges de se faire enregistrer au bureau du maire, a Nelle.
+    Orleans, ou chez les judges de paroisse dans les autres parties de
+    l'etat.
+
+    "Nous voyons avec joie, que la partie du bill tendant a empecher
+    l'instruction des personnes de couleur, a ete rejete."
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER VIII.
+
+
+Having spent a month in Orleans and the neighbouring plantations, I took
+my leave and departed for Louisville. The steam-boat in which I ascended
+the river was of the largest description, and had then on board between
+fifty and sixty cabin passengers, and nearly four hundred deck passengers.
+The former paid thirty dollars, and the latter I believe six, on this
+occasion. The deckers were provided only with an unfurnished berth. The
+steam-boats, on their passage up and down the rivers, stop at nearly all
+the towns of importance, both for the purpose of landing and receiving
+freight, which enabled me to visit most of the settlements along the
+banks.
+
+For several hundred miles from New Orleans, the trees, particularly those
+in the cypress swamps, are covered with tellandsea, or Spanish moss, which
+hangs down from the branches so thickly, as to give a most gloomy aspect
+to the forest. It is found to be a good substitute for horse hair, and is
+universally used by upholsterers for stuffing mattresses, cushions, &c.
+The process of preparing it is very simple: being taken from the trees, it
+is placed in water for a few days, until the outer pellicle has rotted; it
+is then dried, when a long fibre resembling horse hair is obtained.
+
+Natchez, in the state of Mississippi, is about 300 miles above Orleans,
+and is the largest and wealthiest town on the river, from that city up to
+St. Louis. It stands on bluffs, perhaps 300 feet above the water at
+ordinary periods. It contains nearly 4000 inhabitants, and is decidedly
+the prettiest town for its dimensions in the United States. Natchez,
+although upwards of 400 miles from the sea, is considered a port; and a
+grant of 1500 dollars was made by congress for the purpose of erecting a
+light-house; the building has been raised, and stands there, a monument of
+useless expenditure. There are a number of "groggeries," stores, and other
+habitations, at the base of the bluffs, for the accommodation of
+flat-boatmen, which form a distinct town, and the place is called, in
+contradistinction to the city above, Natchez-under-the-hill. Swarms of
+unfortunate females, of every shade of colour, may be seen here sporting
+with the river navigators, and this little spot presents one continued
+scene of gaming, swearing, and rioting, from morning till night.
+
+The ravages of the yellow fever in this town are always greater in
+proportion to the population than at New Orleans; and it is a remarkable
+fact, that frequently when the fever is raging with violence in the city
+on the hill, the inhabitants below are entirely free from it. In addition
+to the exhalations from the exposed part of the river's bed, there are
+others of a still more pestilential character, which arise from stagnant
+pools at the foot of the hill. The miasmata appear to ascend until they
+reach the level of the town above, where the atmosphere being less dense,
+and perhaps precisely of their own specific gravity, they float, and
+commingle with it.
+
+The country from Baton-rouge to Vicksburg, on the walnut hills, is almost
+entirely devoted to the cultivation of cotton, the soil and climate being
+found particularly congenial to the growth of that plant. The great trade
+of Natchez is in this article. The investment of capital in the
+cultivation of cotton is extremely profitable, and a plantation
+judiciously managed seldom fails of producing an income, in a few years,
+amounting to the original outlay. Each slave is estimated to produce from
+250 to 300 dollars per annum; but of course from this are to be deducted
+the _wear and tear_ of the slave, and the casualties incident to human
+life. On sugar plantations the profit is much more on each individual; but
+the risk is greater, and the deaths are generally calculated at one-third
+of the gang in ten years: this is the cause why slaves _on sugar
+plantations_ are so miserably fed and clad, for their being rendered less
+wretched would not make them less susceptible to the epidemic. Each acre
+of well-cultivated land produces from one and a half to two bales of
+cotton, and even the first year the produce will cover the expenses. A
+planter may commence with 10,000 or 12,000 dollars, and calculate on
+certain success; but with less capital, he must struggle hard to attain
+the desired object. A sugar plantation cannot be properly conducted with
+less than 25,000 or 30,000 dollars, and the first year produces no return.
+The cotton begins to ripen in the month of October--the buds open, and the
+flowers appear. A slave can gather from 100 to 150 lbs. a day. Rice and
+tobacco are also grown in the neighbourhood of the cotton lands, but of
+course the produce is inferior to that of the West Indies.
+
+Occasionally, along the banks of the Mississippi, you see here and there
+the solitary habitation of a wood-cutter. Immense piles of wood are placed
+on the edge of the bank, for the supply of steam-boats, and perhaps a
+small corn patch may be close to the house; this however is not commonly
+the case, as the inhabitants depend on flat-boats for provisions. The
+dwelling is the rudest kind of log-house, and the outside is sometimes
+decorated with the skins of deer, bears, and other animals, hung up to
+dry. Those people are commonly afflicted with fever and ague; and I have
+seen many, particularly females, who had immense swellings or
+protuberances on their stomachs, which they denominate "ague-cakes." The
+Mississippi wood-cutters scrape together "considerable of dollars," but
+they pay dearly for it in health, and are totally cut off from the
+frequent frolics, political discussions, and elections; which last,
+especially, are a great source of amusement to the Americans, and tend to
+keep up that spirit of patriotism and nationality for which they are so
+distinguished. The excitement produced by these elections prevents the
+people falling into that ale-drinking stupidity, which characterizes the
+low English.
+
+The "freshets" in the Mississippi are always accompanied with an immense
+quantity of "drift-wood," which is swept away from the banks of the
+Missouri and Ohio; and the navigation is never totally devoid of danger,
+from the quantity of trees which settle down on the bottom of the river.
+Those trees which stand perpendicularly in the river, are called
+"planters;" those which take hold by the roots, but lie obliquely with the
+current, yielding to its pressure, appearing and disappearing alternately,
+are termed "sawyers;" and those which lie immovably fixed, in the same
+position as the "sawyers," are denominated "snags." Many boats have been
+stove in by "snags" and "sawyers," and sunk with all the passengers. At
+present there is a snag steam-boat stationed on the Mississippi, which has
+almost entirely cleared it of these obstructions. This boat consists of
+two hulks, with solid beams of timber uniting the bows. It has a most
+powerful engine; and when the crew discover a snag, which always lies with
+the stream, and is known by the ripple on the water, they run down below
+it for some distance in order to gather head-way--the boat is then run at
+it full tilt, and seldom fails of breaking off the projecting branch close
+to the trunk.
+
+We arrived, a fine morning about nine o'clock, at Memphis in Tennessee,
+and lay-to to put out freight. We had just sat down, and were regaling
+ourselves with a substantial breakfast, when one of the boilers burst,
+with an explosion that resembled the report of a cannon. The change was
+sudden and terrific. Between fifty and sixty persons were killed and
+wounded. The scene was the most horrifying that can be imagined--the dead
+were shattered to pieces, covering the decks with blood; and the dying
+suffered the most excruciating tortures, being scalded from head to foot.
+Many died within the hour; whilst others lingered until evening, shrieking
+in the most piteous manner. The persons assembled on shore displayed the
+most disgusting want of sympathy; and most of the gentlemen passengers
+took care to secure their luggage before rendering any assistance to the
+unfortunates. A medical gentleman, who happened to be on board (a Doctor
+Otis, I think, from Carolina), was an exception. This gentleman--and
+gentleman he really was, in every respect--attended with the most
+unremitting care on all the wounded without distinction. A collection was
+made by the cabin passengers, for the surviving sufferers. The wretch who
+furnished oil on the occasion, hearing of the collection, had the
+conscience to make a charge of sixty dollars, when the quantity furnished
+could not possibly have amounted to a third of that sum.
+
+The boiler recoiled, cutting away part of the bow, and the explosion blew
+up the pilot's deck, which rendered the vessel totally unfit for service.
+I remained three days at Memphis, and visited the neighbouring farms and
+plantations. Several parties of Chickesaw Indians were here, trading their
+deer and other skins with the townspeople. This tribe has a reservation
+about fifty miles back, and pursues agriculture to a considerable extent.
+After the massacre and extermination of the Natchez Indians, by the
+Christians of Louisiana, the few survivors received an asylum from the
+Chickesaws; who, notwithstanding the heavy vengeance with which they were
+threatened, could never be induced to give up the few unhappy "children of
+the Sun" who confided in their honour and generosity: the fugitives
+amalgamated with their protectors, and the Natchez are extinct.
+
+Some of the Indians here assembled, indulged immoderately in the use of
+ardent spirits, with which they were copiously supplied by the white
+people. During these drinking fits, there is always one at least of the
+party who remains sober, in order to secure the knives, &c. Hence the
+Americans derive the cant phrase of "doing the sober Indian," which they
+apply to any one of a company who will not _drink fairly_. One of the
+Indians had a pony which he wished to sell, having occasion for some
+articles, and his skins not bringing him as much as he had anticipated. A
+townsman demanded the price. The Indian put up both his hands, intimating
+that he would take ten dollars. The pony was worth double the sum; but the
+spirit of barter would not permit the white man to purchase without
+reducing the price: he offered the Indian five dollars. The Indian was
+evidently indignant, but only gave a nod of dissent. After some
+hesitation, the buyer, finding that he could not reduce the price, said
+he would give the ten dollars. The Indian then held up his fingers, and
+counted fifteen. The buyer demurred at the advance; but the Indian was
+inexorable, and at length intimated that he would not trade at all. Such
+is the character of the Aborigines--they never calculate on _your_
+necessities, but only on their own; and when they are in want of money,
+demand the lowest possible price for the article they may wish to
+sell--but if they see you want to take further advantage of them, they
+invariably raise the price or refuse to traffic.
+
+Hunting in Tennessee is commonly practised on horseback, with dogs. When
+the party comes upon a deer-track, it separates, and hunters are posted,
+at intervals of about a furlong, on the path which the deer when started
+is calculated to take. Two or three persons then set forward with the
+dogs, always coming up against the wind, and start the deer, when the
+sentinels at the different points fire at him as he passes, until he is
+brought down. Another mode is to hunt by torch-light, without dogs. In
+this case, slaves carry torches before the party; the light of which so
+amazes the deer, that he stands gazing in the brushwood. The glare of his
+eyes is always sufficient to direct the attention of the rifleman, who
+levels his piece at the space between them, and seldom fails of hitting
+him fairly in the head.
+
+A boat at length arrived from New Orleans, bound for Nashville in
+Tennessee, and I secured a passage to Smithland, at the mouth of the
+Cumberland river, where I had a double opportunity of getting to
+Louisville, as boats from St. Louis, as well as those from Orleans, stop
+at that point. The day following my arrival a boat came up, and I
+proceeded to Louisville. On board, whilst I was amusing myself forward, I
+was accosted by a deck-passenger, whom I recollected to have seen at
+Harmony. He told me, amongst other things, that a Mr. O----, who resided
+there, had been elected captain, and added that he was "a considerable
+clever fellow," and the best captain they ever had. I inquired what
+peculiar qualification in their new officer led him to that conclusion.
+Expecting to hear of his superior knowledge in military tactics, I was
+astounded when he seriously informed me, in answer, that on a late
+occasion (I believe it was the anniversary of the birth of Washington),
+after parade, he ordered them into a "groggery," "not to take a _little_
+of something to drink, but by J---s to drink as much as they had a mind
+to." It must be observed, that this individual I had seen but once, in the
+streets of Harmony, and then he was in a state of inebriation. Another
+anecdote, of a similar character, was related to me by an Englishman
+relative to his own election to the post of brigadier-general. The
+candidate opposed to him had served in the late war, and in his address to
+the electors boasted not a little of the circumstance, and concluded by
+stating that he was "ready to lead them to a cannon's mouth when
+necessary." This my friend the General thought a poser; but, however, he
+determined on trying what virtue there was--not in stones, like the "old
+man" with the "young saucebox,"--but in a much more potent article,
+whisky; so, after having stated that although he had not served, yet he
+was as ready to serve against "the hired assassins of England"--this is
+the term by which the Americans designate our troops--as his opponent, he
+concluded by saying, "Boys, Mr. ---- has told you that he is ready to lead
+you to a cannon's mouth--now _I_ don't wish you any such misfortune as
+getting the contents of a cannon in your bowels, but if necessary,
+perhaps, I'd lead you as far as he would; however, men, the short and the
+long of it is, instead of leading you to the mouth of a cannon, I'll lead
+you this instant to the mouth of a barrel of whisky." This was enough--the
+electors shouted, roared, laughed, and drank--and elected my friend
+Brigadier-general. Brigadier-general! what must this man's relatives in
+England think, when they hear that he is a Brigadier-general in the
+American army? Yet he is a very respectable man (an auctioneer), and much
+superior to many west country Generals. The fact is, a dollar's-worth of
+whisky and a little Irish wit would go as far in electioneering as five
+pounds would go in England; and were it not for the protection afforded by
+the ballot, the Americans would be fully as corrupt, and would exercise
+the franchise as little in accordance with the public interest, as the
+English and Irish who enjoy the freedom of corporate towns. Some aspirants
+to office in the New England states, about the time of the last
+presidential election, tried the system of bribing, and obtained promises
+fully sufficient to insure their returns; but on counting the votes, it
+was found that more than one half the persons who were paid to vote _for_,
+must have voted _against_ the person who had bribed them. It is needless
+to say this experiment was not repeated. The Americans thought it bad
+enough to take the bribe, but justly concluded that it would be a double
+crime to adhere to the agreement. The bravo who takes a purse to commit an
+assassination, and does not do that for which he has been paid; is an
+angel, when compared to the villain who performs his contract.
+
+The usual time occupied in a voyage from Orleans to Louisville is from ten
+to twelve days, and boats have performed it in the surprisingly short
+space of eight days. The spur that commerce has received from the
+introduction of steam-boats on the western waters, can only be appreciated
+by comparing the former means of communication with the present. Previous
+to 1812, the navigation of the Upper Ohio was carried on by means of about
+150 small barges, averaging between thirty and forty tons burden, and the
+time consumed in ascending from the Falls to Pittsburg was a full month.
+On the Lower Ohio and the Mississippi there were about twenty barges,
+which averaged 100 tons burden, and more than three months was occupied in
+ascending from Orleans to Louisville with West India produce, the crew
+being obliged to poll or _cordelle_ the whole distance. Seldom more than
+one voyage to Orleans and back was made within the year. In 1817, a
+steam-boat arrived at Louisville from New Orleans in twenty-five days, and
+a public dinner and other rejoicings celebrated the event. From that
+period until 1827, the time consumed in this voyage gradually diminished,
+and in that year a boat from New Orleans entered the port of Louisville in
+eight days and two hours. There are at present on the waters of the Ohio
+and Mississippi, 323 boats, the aggregate burden of which is 56,000 tons,
+the greater proportion measuring from 250 to 500 tons.
+
+The people of this country cannot properly be compared with the
+inhabitants of England; their institutions are different, and their
+habits and manners must necessarily be dissimilar. Indeed, they are as
+unlike the English as any people can well be, and many of them with whom I
+conversed, denied flatly the descent. They contend that they are a
+compound of the best blood of Europe, and that the language of England
+only prevailed because, _originally_, the majority of settlers were
+English; but that since the revolution, the whole number of emigrants from
+the other countries of Europe greatly exceeded the proportion from England
+and Ireland. Their temperament, organisation, and independent spirit,
+appear to bear them out in this assertion.
+
+In England we have all the grades and conditions of society that are to be
+found in America, with the addition of two others, the highest and the
+lowest classes. There is no extensive class here equivalent to the English
+or Irish labourer; neither is there any class whose manners are stamped
+with that high polish and urbanity which characterises the aristocracy of
+England. The term _gentleman_ is used here in a very different sense from
+that in which it is applied in Europe--it means simply, well-behaved
+citizen. All classes of society claim it--from the purveyor of old bones,
+up to the planter; and I have myself heard a bar-keeper in a tavern and a
+stage driver, whilst quarrelling, seriously accuse each other of being "no
+gentleman." The only class who live on the labour of others, and without
+their own personal exertions, are the planters in the south. There are
+certainly many persons who derive very considerable revenues from houses;
+but they must be very few, if any, who have ample incomes from land, and
+this only in the immediate vicinity of the largest and oldest cities.
+
+English novels have very extensive circulation here, which certainly is of
+no service to the country, as it induces the wives and daughters of
+American gentlemen (alias, shopkeepers) to ape gentility. In Louisville,
+Cincinnati, and all the other towns of the west, the women have
+established circles of society. You will frequently be amused by seeing a
+lady, the wife of a dry-goods store-keeper, look most contemptuously at
+the mention of another's name, whose husband pursues precisely the same
+occupation, but on a less extensive scale, and observe, that "she only
+belongs to the third circle of society." This species of embryo
+aristocracy--or as Socrates would, call it, Plutocracy--is based on wealth
+alone, and is decidedly the most contemptible of any. There are,
+notwithstanding, very many well-bred, if not highly polished, women in the
+country; and on the whole, the manners of the women are much more
+agreeable than those of the men.
+
+Early in the summer I proceeded to Maysville, in Kentucky, which lies
+about 220 miles above the Falls. Here having to visit a gentlemen in the
+interior, I hired a chaise, for which I paid about two shillings British
+per mile.
+
+A great deal of excitement was just then produced among the inhabitants of
+Maysville by the president's having put his veto on the bill, passed by
+congress, granting loans to the "Maysville and Lexington road," and the
+"Louisville canal" companies. The Kentuckians were in high dudgeon, and
+denounced Jackson as an enemy to internal improvement, and to the western
+states. It would appear that the friends of Adams and Clay, had determined
+to place Jackson in a dilemma which would involve his character, either as
+a friend to internal improvement or an enemy to lavish expenditure.
+Accordingly, they passed an unusual number of bills, appropriating money
+to the clearing of creeks, building of bridges, and making of canals and
+turnpike roads; the amount of which, instead of leaving a surplus of ten
+millions to the liquidation of the national debt, would not only have
+totally exhausted the treasury, but have actually exceeded by 20,000,000
+dollars the revenue of the current year. This manoeuvre was timely
+discovered by the administration, and the president consequently refused
+to put his signature to those bills, amongst a number of others. He
+refused on two grounds. The first was, that although it had been the
+practice of congress to grant sums of money for the purpose of making
+roads and perfecting other works, which only benefited one or two states;
+yet that such practice was not sanctioned by the constitution--the federal
+legislature having no power to act but with reference to the general
+interests of the states. The second was, that the road in question was
+local in the most limited sense, commencing at the Ohio river, and running
+back sixty miles to an interior town, and consequently, the grant in
+question came within neither the constitutional powers nor practice of
+congress.
+
+The president recommends that the surplus revenue, after the debt shall
+have been paid off, should be portioned out to the different states, in
+proportion to their ratio of representation; which appears to be
+judicious, as the question of congressional power to appropriate money to
+road-making, &c., although of a general character, involves also the right
+of jurisdiction; which congress clearly has not, except where the defence
+of the country, or other paramount interests, are concerned.
+
+The national debt will be totally extinguished in four years, when this
+country will present a curious spectacle for the serious consideration of
+European nations. During the space of fifty-six years, two successful wars
+have been carried on--one for the establishment, and the other for the
+maintenance of national independence, and a large amount of public works
+and improvements has been effected; yet, after the expiration of four
+years from this time, there will not only be no public debt, but the
+revenue arising from protecting tariff duties alone will amount to more
+than the expenditure by upwards of 10,000,000 dollars.
+
+A brief abstract from the treasury report on the finances of the United
+States, up to the 1st January, 1831, may not be uninteresting.
+
+                                             Dollars. Cts.
+Balance in the treasury, 1st January,
+1828                                         6,668,286 10
+
+Receipts of the year 1828                   24,789,463 61
+                                            _____________
+Total                                       31,457,749 71
+Expenditure for the year 1828               25,485,313 90
+                                            _____________
+Leaving a balance in the treasury, 1st
+January, 1829, of                            5,972,435 81
+
+Receipts from all sources during the
+year 1829                                   24,827,627 38
+
+Expenditures for the same year, including
+3,686,542 dol. 93 ct. on account of
+the public debt, and 9,033 dol. 38 ct.
+for awards under the first article of the
+treaty of Ghent                             25,044,358 40
+
+Balance in the treasury on 1st January,
+1830                                         5,755,704 79
+
+The receipts from all sources during the
+year 1830 were                              24,844,116 51
+
+                    viz.
+
+Customs                                     21,922,391 39
+
+Lands                                        2,329,356 14
+
+Dividends on bank stock                        490,000 00
+
+Incidental receipts                            102,368 98
+                                            _____________
+
+The expenditures for the same year were     24,585,281 55
+
+                    viz.
+
+Civil list, foreign intercourse,
+and miscellaneous                            3,237,416 04
+
+Military service, including
+fortifications, ordnance,
+Indian affairs,
+pensions, arming the
+militia, and internal
+improvements                                 6,752,688 66
+
+Naval service, including
+sums appropriated
+to the gradual
+improvement of the
+navy[14]                                     3,239,428 63
+
+Public debt                                 11,355,748 22
+                                            _____________
+
+Leaving a balance in the treasury
+on the 1st of January, 1831, of              6,014,539 75
+
+
+
+
+_Public Debt_.
+
+                                             Dollars. Cts.
+The payments made on account of the
+Public Debt, during the first three
+quarters of the year 1831, amounted to      9,883,479  46
+
+It was estimated that the payments to
+be made in the fourth quarter of the
+same year, would amount to                  6,205,810  21
+                                           ______________
+Making the whole amount of disbursments
+on account of the Debt in 1831             16,089,289  67
+
+
+
+THE  PUBLIC  DEBT,  ON  THE  SECOND  OF JANUARY, 1832, WILL
+BE AS FOLLOWS, VIZ.;--
+
+
+1. _Funded Debt_.
+                                             Dollars. Cts.
+Three per cents, per act
+of the 4th of August,
+1790, redeemable at the
+pleasure of government                      13,296,626 21
+
+Five per cents, per act of
+the 3rd of March, 1821,
+redeemable after the 1st
+January, 1823                                4,735,296 30
+
+Five per cents, (exchanged),
+per act of 20th of
+April, 1823; one third
+redeemable annually
+after 31st of December,
+1830, 1831 and 1832                            56,704  77
+
+Four and half per cents.
+per act of the 24th of
+May, 1824, redeemable
+after 1st of January,
+1832                                        1,739,524  01
+
+Four and half per cents.
+(exchanged), per act of
+the 26th of May, 1824;
+one half redeemable
+after the 31st day of
+December, 1832                              4,454,727  95
+                                           ______________
+                                           24,282,879  24
+
+
+2. _Unfunded Debt_.
+
+Registered Debt, being
+claims registered prior
+to the year 1793, for
+services and supplies
+during the revolutionary war                   27,919  85
+
+Treasury notes                                  7,116  00
+
+Mississippi stock                               4,320  09
+                                           ______________
+                                               39,355  94
+
+Making the whole amount of the Public
+Debt of the United States                  24,322,235  18
+                                           ______________
+
+Which is, allowing 480 cents to the
+sovereign, in sterling money            L5,067,132 6_s_. 7_d_.
+
+General Jackson has proposed another source of national revenue, in the
+establishment of a bank; the profits of which, instead of going into the
+pockets of stock-holders as at present, should be placed to the credit of
+the nation. If an establishment of this nature could be formed, without
+involving higher interests than the mere pecuniary concerns of the
+country, no doubt it would be most desirable. But how a _government_ bank
+could be so formed as that it should not throw immense and dangerous
+influence into the hands of the executive, appears difficult to determine.
+If it be at all connected with the government, the executive must exercise
+an extensive authority over its affairs; and in that case, the mercantile
+portion of the community would lie completely under the surveillance of
+the president, who might at pleasure exercise this immense patronage to
+forward private political designs. No doubt there have been abuses to a
+considerable extent practised by the present bank of the United States in
+the exercise of its functions; but how those abuses are likely to be
+remedied by Jackson's plan, does not appear. For, let the directors be
+appointed by government, or elected by congress, they must still exercise
+discretional power; and they are quite as likely to exercise it
+unwarrantably as those who have a direct interest in the prosperity of the
+concern. I totally disapprove of the attempt to correct the abuses of one
+monopoly by the establishment of another in its stead, of a still more
+dangerous character; and I am inclined to think that if two banks were
+chartered instead of one, each having ample capital to insure public
+confidence, competition alone would furnish a sufficient motive to induce
+them to act with justice and liberality towards the public.
+
+In 1766, Kentucky was first explored, by John Finlay, an Indian trader,
+Colonel Daniel Boon, and others. They again visited it in 1769, when the
+whole party, excepting Boon, were slain by the Indians--he escaped, and
+reached North Carolina, where he then resided. Accompanied by about forty
+expert hunters, comprised in five families, in the year 1775, he set
+forward to make a settlement in the country. They erected a fort on the
+banks of the Kentucky river, and being joined by several other
+adventurers, they finally succeeded. The Kentuckians tell of many a bloody
+battle fought by these pioneers, and boast that their country has been
+gained, every inch, by conquest.
+
+The climate of Kentucky is favourable to the growth of hemp, flax,
+tobacco, and all kinds of grain. The greater portion of the soil is rich
+loam, black, or mixed with reddish earth, generally to the depth of five
+or six feet, on a limestone bottom. The produce of corn is about sixty
+bushels on an average per acre, and of wheat about thirty-five; cotton is
+partially cultivated. The scenery is varied, and the country well
+watered.
+
+The Kentuckians all carry large pocket knives, which they never fail to
+use in a scuffle; and you may see a gentleman seated at the tavern door,
+balanced on two legs of a chair, picking his teeth with a knife, the blade
+of which is full six inches long, or cutting the benches, posts, or any
+thing else that may lie within his reach. Notwithstanding this, the
+Kentuckians are by no means more quarrelsome than any other people of the
+western states; and they are vastly less so than the people of Ireland.
+But when they do commence hostilities, they fight with great bitterness,
+as do most Americans, biting, gouging, and cutting unrelentingly.
+
+I never went into a court-house in the west _in summer_, without observing
+that the judges and lawyers had their feet invariably placed upon the
+desks before them, and raised much higher than their heads. This, however,
+is only in the western country; for in the courts at Orleans, New York,
+and Philadelphia, the greatest order and regularity is observed. I had
+been told that the judges often slept upon the bench; but I must confess,
+that although I have entered court-houses at all seasons during the space
+of fifteen months, I never saw an instance of it. I have frequently
+remonstrated with the Americans, on the total absence of forms and
+ceremonies in their courts of justice, and was commonly answered by "Yes,
+that may be quite necessary in England, in order to overawe a parcel of
+ignorant creatures, who have no share in making the laws; but with us, a
+man's a man, whether he have a silk gown on him or not; and I guess he can
+decide quite as well without a big wig as with one. You see, we have done
+with wiggery of all kinds; and if one of our judges were to wear such an
+appendage, he'd be taken for a merry-andrew, and the court would become a
+kind of show-box--instead of such arrangements producing with us
+solemnity, they would produce nothing but laughter, and the greatest
+possible irregularity."
+
+I was present at an election in the interior of the state. The office was
+that of representative in the state legislature, and the candidates were a
+hatter and a saddler; the former was also a militia major, and a Methodist
+preacher, of the Percival and Gordon school, who eschewed the devil and
+all the backsliding abominations of the flesh, as in duty bound. Sundry
+"stump orations" were delivered on the occasion, for the enlightenment of
+the electors; and towards the close of the proceedings, by way of an
+appropriate finale, the aforesaid triune-citizen and another gentleman,
+had a gouging scrape on the hustings. The major in this contest proved
+himself to be a true Kentuckian; that is, half a horse, and half an
+alligator; which contributed not a little to ensure his return. After the
+election, I was conversing with one of the most violent opponents of the
+successful candidate, and remarked to him, that I supposed he would rally
+his forces at the next election to put out the major: he replied, "I can't
+tell that!" I said, "why? will you not oppose him?" "Oh!" he says, "for
+that matter, he may do his duty pretty well." "And do you mean to say,"
+continued I, "that if he should do so, you will give him no opposition?"
+He looked at me, as if he did not clearly comprehend, and said, "Why, I
+guess not."
+
+The boatmen of the Ohio and Mississippi are the most riotous and lawless
+set of people in America, and the least inclined to submit to the
+constituted authorities. At Cincinnati I saw one of those persons
+arrested, on the wharf, for debt. He seemed little inclined to submit; as,
+could he contrive to escape to the opposite shore, he was safe. He called
+upon his companions in the flat-boat, who came instantly to his
+assistance, and were apparently ready to rescue him from the clutches of
+this trans-Atlantic bum-bailiff. The constable instantly pulled out--not a
+pistol, but a small piece of paper, and said, "I take him in the name of
+the States." The messmates of this unfortunate navigator looked at him for
+some time, and then one of them said drily, "I guess you must go with the
+constable." Subsequently, at New York, one evening returning to my hotel,
+I heard a row in a tavern, and wishing to see the process of capturing
+refractory citizens, I entered with some other persons. The constable was
+there unsupported by any of his brethren, and it seemed to me to be
+morally impossible that, without assistance, he could take half a dozen
+fellows, who were with difficulty restrained from whipping each other.
+However, his hand seemed to be as potent as the famous magic wand of
+Armida, for on placing it on the shoulders of the combatants, they fell
+into the ranks, and marched off with him as quietly as if they had been
+sheep. The rationale of the matter is this: those men had all exercised
+the franchise, if not in the election of these very constables, of
+others, and they therefore not only considered it to be their duty to
+support the constable's authority, but actually felt a strong inclination
+to do so. Because they _knew_ that the authority he exercised was only
+delegated to him by themselves, and that, in resisting him, they would
+resist their own sovereignty. Even in large towns in the western country,
+the constable has no men under his command, but always finds most powerful
+allies in the citizens themselves, whenever a lawless scoundrel, or a
+culprit is to be captured.
+
+At Flemingsburg I saw an Albino, a female about fourteen years old. Her
+parents were clear negros, of the Congo or Guinea race, and in every thing
+but colour she perfectly resembled them. Her form, face, and hair,
+possessed the true negro characteristics--curved shins, projecting jaw,
+retreating forehead, and woolly head. The skin was rather whiter than that
+of the generality of Europeans, but was deficient in glossiness, and
+although perfectly smooth, had a dry appearance. The wool on the head was
+of a light flaxen colour, and the iris of the eye was of a reddish-blue
+tinge. Her eyes were so weak as to bear with difficulty the glare of day.
+Most Albinos are dim sighted until twilight, when they appear to have as
+perfect vision as persons with the strongest sight, and in many cases,
+even more acute. This individual had evidently weak sight, as the eyelids
+were generally half closed, and she always held her head down during day
+light.
+
+Near the banks of the Ohio, full three hundred miles from the sea, I found
+conglomerations of marine shells, mixed with siliceous earth; and in
+nearly all the runs throughout Kentucky, limestone pebbles are found,
+bearing the perfect impressions of the interior of shells. The most
+abundant proofs are every where exhibited, that at one period the vast
+savannahs and lofty mountains of the New world were submerged; and perhaps
+the present bed of the ocean was once covered with verdure, and the seat
+of the sorrows and joys of myriads of human beings, who erected cities,
+and built pyramids, and monuments, which Time has long since swept away,
+and wrapt in his eternal mantle of oblivion. That a constant, but almost
+imperceptible change is hourly taking place in the earth's surface,
+appears to be established; and independent of the extraordinary
+_bouleversements_, which have at intervals convulsed our globe, this
+gradual revolution has produced, and will produce again, a total
+alteration in the face of nature.
+
+FOOTNOTES:
+
+[14] Amongst other plans to this effect, there is one proposed, by which
+midshipmen on half-pay will be obliged to make at least two voyages
+annually, in merchant ships, as mates, and all others must have done so,
+in order to entitle them to be reinstated in their former rank. Another
+is, that there shall be small vessels, rigged and fitted out in war
+style, appropriated to the purpose of teaching pupils, practically, the
+science of navigation, and the discipline necessary to be observed on
+board vessels of war. The Americans may not eat their fish with silver
+forks, nor lave their fingers in the most approved style; yet they are by
+no means so contemptible a people as some of our small gentry affect to
+think. They may too, occasionally, be put down in political argument, by
+the dogmatical method of the quarter-deck; but I must confess that _I_
+never was so fortunate as to come in contact with any who reasoned so
+badly as the persons Captain Bazil Hall introduces in his book.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER IX.
+
+
+The wailings of the Cherokee, the Choctaw, and the Creek, may have been
+wafted across the waters of the great salt lake, and the Pale-face in his
+own land may have heard their lamentations;--but the distant voice is
+scattered by the passing winds, and is heard like the whisper of a summer
+breeze as it steals along the prairies of the west, or the cry of the
+wish-ton-wish as it faintly reaches the ear of the navigator, when, in the
+stilly night, he floats down "the old father of waters."
+
+The present posture of Indian affairs, and the peculiar situation of the
+Indian nations east of the Mississippi, have caused that unfortunate
+people to be the topic of much political controversy and conversation; a
+succinct account of the political condition of these tribes, and of the
+policy which has been pursued, and which is being pursued towards them, by
+the executive government, may not therefore be uninteresting.
+
+When Georgia, by becoming a member of the Union, ceded part of her
+sovereignty to the general executive, that government acknowledged her
+claimed limits, and guaranteed to her the protection of the Union against
+foreign and domestic violence. Subsequently, in the year of 1802, in
+consideration of a certain portion of lands ceded, the United States
+became bound to purchase for Georgia, any claim which the Cherokee nation
+might have on lands within her boundaries, whenever such purchase could be
+made on reasonable terms. On these positions are based the Georgian
+claims, which the United States government has hitherto pleaded inability
+to satisfy, inasmuch as all efforts to purchase the Indian lands have
+proved fruitless.
+
+After the lapse of twenty-seven years, Georgia, finding herself precisely
+in the same condition in which she then stood, has determined on forcibly
+taking possession of the Cherokee lands, and extending her sovereignty
+over the Cherokee people. But as this cannot be effected without doing
+manifest violence to the Indian rights, she brings forward arguments to
+show, that _she_ never acknowledged the independence of the Cherokee
+nation; that that nation, from the time of the first settlement made by
+Europeans in America, stood in the position of a conquered people; that
+the sovereignty consequently dwelt in the hands of Great Britain; and
+that, on the Declaration of independence, Georgia, by becoming a free
+state, became invested with all the powers of sovereignty claimed or
+exercised by Great Britain over the Georgian territory: and further, that
+in November, 1785, when the first and only treaty was concluded with the
+Cherokees by the United States, during the articles of confederation, both
+she and North Carolina entered their solemn protests against this alleged
+violation of their legislative rights. The executive government pretends
+not to argue the case with Georgia, and is left no alternative but either
+to annul its _conditional_ treaty with that state, or to cancel _thirteen
+distinct treaties_ entered into with the Indians, despoil them of their
+lands, and rob them of their independence. Jackson's message says, "It is
+too late to inquire whether it was just in the United States to include
+them and their territory within bounds of new states, whose limits they
+could control. That step cannot be retracted. A state cannot be
+dismembered by Congress, or restrained in the exercise of her
+constitutional powers." Here the executive government acknowledges that it
+made promises to Georgia, which it has been unable to perform--that it
+guaranteed to that state the possession of lands over which it had no
+legitimate control, on the mere assumption of being able to make their
+purchase.
+
+The Cherokees in their petition and memorials to Congress show, that Great
+Britain never exercised any sovereignty over them;--that in peace and in
+war she always treated them as a free people, and never assumed to herself
+the right of interfering with their internal government:--that in every
+treaty made with them by the United States, their sovereignty and total
+independence are clearly acknowledged, and that they have ever been
+considered as a distinct nation, exercising all the privileges and
+immunities enjoyed by any independent people. They say, "In addition to
+that first of all rights, the right of inheritance and peaceable
+possession, we have the faith and pledge of the United States, over and
+over again, in treaties made at various times. By these treaties our
+rights as a separate people are distinctly acknowledged, and guarantees
+given that they shall be secured and protected. So we have also
+understood the treaties. The conduct of the government towards us, from
+its organization until very lately--the talks given to our beloved men by
+the Presidents of the United States--and the speeches of the agents and
+commissioners--all concur to show that we are not mistaken in our
+interpretation. Some of our beloved men who signed the treaties are still
+living, and their testimony tends to the same conclusion." * * * * "In
+what light shall we view the conduct of the United States and Georgia in
+their intercourse with us, in urging us to enter into treaties and cede
+lands? If we were but tenants at will, why was it necessary that our
+consent must first be obtained before these governments could take lawful
+possession of our lands? The answer is obvious. These governments
+perfectly understand our rights--our right to the country, and our right
+to self-government. Our understanding of the treaties is further supported
+by the intercourse law of the United States, which prohibits all
+encroachment on our territory."
+
+The arguments used by the Cherokees are unanswerable; but in what will
+that avail them, when injustice is intended by a superior power, which,
+regardless of national faith, has determined on taking possession of their
+lands? The case stands thus: the executive government enters into an
+agreement with Georgia, and engages to deliver over to the state the
+Indian possessions within her claimed limits--without the Indians _having
+any knowledge of, or participation in the transaction._ Now what, may I
+ask, have the Indians to do with this? Ought they to be made answerable
+for the gross misconduct of the two governments, and to be despoiled,
+contrary to every principle of justice, and in defiance of the most plain
+and fundamental law of property? It puts one in mind of the judgment of
+the renowned "Walter the Doubter," who decided between two citizens, that,
+as their account books appeared to be of equal _weight_, therefore their
+accounts were balanced, and that _the constable_ should pay the costs. The
+United States government has made several offers to the Cherokees for
+their lands; which they have as constantly refused, and said, "that they
+were very well contented where they were--that they did not wish to leave
+the bones of their ancestors, and go beyond the Mississippi; but that, if
+the country be so beautiful as their white brother represents it, they
+would recommend their white brother to go there himself."
+
+Georgia presses upon the executive; which, in this dilemma, comes forward
+with affected sympathy--deplores the unfortunate situation in which it is
+placed, but of course concludes that faith must be kept with Georgia, and
+that the Cherokee must either go, or submit to laws that make it far
+better for him to go than stay. It is true Jackson says in his message,
+"This emigration should be voluntary; for it would be cruel as unjust to
+compel the Aborigines to abandon the graves of their fathers, and seek a
+home in a distant land." But General Jackson well knows that the laws of
+Georgia leave the Indian no choice--as no community of men, civilized or
+savage, could possibly exist under such laws. The benefit and protection
+of the laws, to which the Indian is made subject, are entirely withheld
+from him--he can be no party to a suit--he may be robbed and murdered with
+impunity--his property may be taken, and he may be driven from his
+dwelling--in fine, he is left liable to every species of insult, outrage,
+cruelty, and dishonesty, without the most distant hope of obtaining
+redress; for in Georgia _an Indian cannot be a witness to prove facts
+against a white man._ Yet General Jackson says, "this emigration should be
+_voluntary_;" and in the very same paragraph, with a single sweep of the
+pen, he annihilates all the treaties that have been made with that
+people--tramples under foot the laws of nations, and deprives the Indian
+of his hunting-grounds, one of his sources of subsistence. He says,--"But
+it seems to me visionary to suppose that, in this state of things, claims
+can be allowed on tracts of country on which they have neither dwelt nor
+made improvements, merely because they have seen them from the mountain,
+or passed them in the chase." It certainly may be unphilosophical to
+permit any man to possess more ground than he can till with his own hands;
+yet surely arguments that we do not admit as regards ourselves, we can
+with no sense of propriety use towards others, particularly when our own
+acts are directly in the very teeth of this principle. There is more land
+at present within the limits and in the possession of the United States
+than would be sufficient to support thirty times the present
+population--yet to this must be added the hunting-grounds of the Indians,
+merely because "it is _visionary to suppose_ they have any claim on what
+they do not _actually occupy!"_
+
+I have now before me the particulars of thirteen treaties[15] made by the
+United States with the Cherokee nation, from the year 1785 down to 1819
+inclusive; in all of which the rights of the Indians are clearly
+acknowledged, either directly, or by implication; and by the seventh
+article of the treaty of Holston, executed in 1791, being the first
+concluded with that people by the United States, under their present
+constitution, all the lands not thereby ceded are solemnly guaranteed to
+the Cherokee nation. The subsequent treaties are made with reference to,
+and in confirmation of this, and continually reiterate the guarantees
+therein tendered.
+
+To talk of justice, and honour, would be idle and visionary, for these
+seem to have been thrown overboard at the very commencement of the
+contest; but I would ask the American _people_, is their conduct towards
+the Indians politic?--is it politic in America, in the face of civilized
+nations, to violate treaties? is it politic in her, to hold herself up to
+the world as faithless and unjust--as a nation, which, in defiance of all
+moral obligation, will break her most sacred contracts, whenever it
+becomes no longer her interest to keep them, and she finds herself in a
+condition to do so with impunity? is she not furnishing foreign statesmen
+with a ready and powerful argument in defence of their violating treaties
+with her? can they not with justice say--America has manifested in her
+proceedings towards the Cherokee nation, that she is faithless--that she
+keeps no treaties longer than it may be her _interest_ to do so--and are
+_we_ to make ourselves the dupes of such a power, and wait until she finds
+herself in a condition to deceive us? I could produce many arguments to
+illustrate the impolicy of this conduct; but as I intend confining myself
+to a mere sketch, I shall dwell but as short a time as may be consistent
+on the several facts connected with the case.
+
+That the Aborigines have been cruelly treated, cannot be doubted. The very
+words of the Message admit this; and the tone of feeling and conciliation
+which follows that admission, coupled as it is with the intended injustice
+expressed in other paragraphs, can be viewed in no other light than as a
+piece of political mockery. The Message says, "their present condition,
+contrasted with what they once were, makes a most powerful appeal to our
+sympathies. Our ancestors found them the uncontrolled possessors of these
+vast regions. By persuasion and force, they have been made to retire from
+river to river, and from mountain to mountain, until some of the tribes
+have become extinct, and others have left but remnants, to preserve for a
+while their once terrible names." Now the plan laid down by the president,
+in order to prevent, if possible, the total decay of the Indian people,
+is, to send them beyond the Mississippi, and _guarantee_ to them the
+possession of ample territory west of that river. How far this is likely
+to answer the purpose _expressed_, let us now examine.
+
+The Cherokees, by their intercourse with and proximity to the white
+people, have become half civilized; and how is it likely that _their_
+condition will be improved by driving them into the forests and barren
+prairies? That territory is at present the haunt of the Pawnees, the
+Osages, and other warlike nations, who live almost entirely by the chase,
+and are constantly waging war even with each other. As soon as the
+Cherokees, and other half-civilized Indians, appear, they will be regarded
+as common intruders, and be subject to the united attacks of these people.
+There are even old feuds existing among themselves, which, it is but too
+probable, may be renewed. Trappers and hunters, in large parties, yearly
+make incursions into the country beyond the boundaries of the United
+States, and in defiance of the Indians kill the beaver and the
+buffalo--the latter merely for the _tongue and skin_, leaving the carcase
+to rot upon the ground.[16] Thus is this unfortunate race robbed of their
+means of subsistence. Moreover, what guarantee can the Indians have, that
+the United States will keep faith for the future, when it is admitted that
+they have not done so in times past? How can they be sure that they may
+not further be driven from river to river, and from mountain to mountain,
+until they reach the shores of the Pacific; and who can tell but that then
+it may be found expedient to drive them into the ocean?
+
+The policy of the United States government is evidently to get the Indians
+to exterminate each other. Its whole proceedings from the time this
+question was first agitated to the present, but too clearly indicate this
+intention; and if we wanted proof, that the executive government of the
+United States _would act_ on so barbarous and inhuman a policy, we need
+only refer to the allocation of the Cherokees, who exchanged lands in
+Tennessee for lands west of the Mississippi, pursuant to the treaty of
+1819. It was well known that a deadly enmity existed between the Osages
+and Cherokees, and that any proximity of the two people, would inevitably
+lead to fatal results; yet, with this knowledge, the executive government
+placed those Cherokees in the country lying between the Arkansaw and Red
+rivers, _immediately joining the territory of the Osages._ It is
+unnecessary to state that the result was _as anticipated_--they daily
+committed outrages upon the persons and properties of each other, and the
+death of many warriors, on both sides, ensued.
+
+The sympathy expressed in that part of the Message relating to the
+Indians, if expressed with sincerity, would do much honour to the feelings
+that dictated it; but when we come to examine the facts, and investigate
+the implied allegations, we shall find that they are most gratuitous; and,
+consequently, that the regret of the president at the probable fate of the
+Indian, should he remain east of the Mississippi, is grossly hypocritical.
+He says, "surrounded by the whites, with their arts of civilization,
+which, by destroying the resources of the savage, doom him to weakness and
+decay:[17] the fate of the Mohegan, the Narragansett, and the Delaware, is
+fast overtaking the Choctaw, the Cherokee, and the Creek. That this fate
+surely awaits them, if they remain within the limits of the States, does
+not admit of a doubt. Humanity and national honour demand that every
+effort should be made to avert so great a calamity." From what facts the
+president has drawn these conclusions does not appear. Neither the
+statements of the Cherokees, nor of the Indian agents, nor the report of
+the secretary of war, furnish any such information; on the contrary, with
+the exception of one or two agents _at Washington_, all give the most
+flattering accounts of advancement in civilization. The Rev. Samuel A.
+Worcester, in his letter to the Rev. E.S. Ely, editor of the
+"Philadelphian," completely refutes all the unfavourable statements that
+have been got up to cover the base conduct of Jackson and the slavites.
+This gentleman has resided for the last four years among the Cherokees,
+and has surely had abundant means of observing their condition.
+
+The letter of David Brown (a Cherokee), addressed, September 2, 1825, to
+the editor of "The Family Visitor," at Richmond, Virginia, states, that
+"the Cherokee plains are covered with herds of cattle--sheep, goats, and
+swine, cover the valleys and hills--the plains and valleys are rich, and
+produce Indian corn, cotton, tobacco, wheat, oats, indigo, sweet and Irish
+potatoes, &c. The natives carry on a considerable trade with the adjoining
+states, and some of them export cotton in boats down the Tennessee to the
+Mississippi, and down that river to New Orleans. Orchards are
+common--cheese, butter, &c. plenty--houses of entertainment are kept by
+natives. Cotton and woollen cloths are manufactured in the nation, and
+almost every family grows cotton for its own consumption. Agricultural
+pursuits engage the chief attention of the nation--different branches of
+mechanics are pursued. Schools are increasing every year, and education is
+encouraged and rewarded." To quote David Brown verbatim, on the
+population,--"In the year 1819, an estimate was made of the Cherokees.
+Those on the west were estimated at 5,000, and those on the east of the
+Mississippi, at 10,000 souls. The census of this division of the Cherokees
+has again been taken within the current year (1825), and the returns are
+thus made: native citizens, 13,563; white men married in the nation, 147;
+white women ditto, 73; African slaves, 1177. If this summary of the
+Cherokee population, from the census, is correct, to say nothing of those
+of foreign extract, we find that in six years the increase has been 3,563
+souls. National pride, patriotism, and a spirit of independence, mark the
+Cherokee character." He further states, "the system of government is
+founded on republican principles, and secures the respect of the people."
+An alphabet has been invented by an Indian, named George Guess, the
+Cherokee Cadmus, and a printing press has been established at New Echota,
+the seat of government, where there is published weekly a paper entitled,
+"The Cherokee Phoenix,"--one half being in the English language, and the
+other in that of the Cherokee.
+
+The report of the secretary of war, upon the present condition of the
+Indians, states of the Chickesaws and Choctaws, all that has been above
+said of the Cherokees. But of the last-mentioned people, the secretary's
+accounts appear to be studiously defective. Yet the fact is notorious,
+that both the Chickesaws and Choctaws are far behind the Cherokees in
+civilization.
+
+With these facts before our eyes, what are we to think of the grief of the
+president, at the decay and increasing weakness of the Cherokees? Can it
+be regarded in any way but as a piece of shameless hypocrisy, too glaring
+in its character to escape the notice even of the most inobservant
+individual. It has been said that the question involves many
+difficulties--to me there appears none. The United States, in the year
+1791, guarantee to the Indians the possession of all their lands not then
+ceded--and confirm this by numerous subsequent treaties. In 1802, they
+promise to Georgia, the possession of the Cherokee lands "_whenever such
+purchase could be made on reasonable terms_" This is the simple state of
+the case; and if the executive were inclined to act uprightly, the line of
+conduct to be pursued could be determined on without much difficulty.
+Georgia has no right to press upon the executive the fulfilment of
+engagements which were made conditionally, and consequently with an
+implied reservation; and the United States should not violate _many
+positive treaties_, in order to fulfil _a conditional one_.[18]
+
+I shall now advert to some of the charges touching the character of the
+Indians. It is said, that they are debauched and insincere. This charge
+has been particularly made against the Creeks, and I believe is not
+altogether unfounded. Yet, if this be now the character of the once
+warlike and noble Creek, let the white man ask himself who has made him
+so? Who makes the "firewater," and who supplies the untutored savage with
+the means of intoxication? The white-man, when he wishes to trade
+profitably with the Indian, fills the cup, and holds it forth--he says,
+'drink, my brother, it is good'--the red-man drinks, and the wily white
+points at his condition, says he is uncivilized, and should go forth from
+the land, for his presence is contamination!
+
+As to the charge of hypocrisy--this too has been taught or forced upon the
+Indians by the conduct of the whites. Missionaries have been constantly
+going among them, teaching dogmas and doctrines, far beyond the
+comprehension of some learned white-men, and to the savage totally
+unintelligible. These gentlemen have told long stories; and when posed by
+some quaint saying, or answered by some piece of traditional information,
+handed down from generation to generation, by the fathers and mothers of
+the tribe, have found it necessary to purchase the acquiescence of a few
+Indians by bribes, in order that their labours might not seem to have been
+altogether unsuccessful. This conduct of the Missionaries was soon
+_understood_ by the Indians, and the temptation held out was too great to
+be resisted. Blankets and gowns converted, when inspiration and gospel
+truths had failed.
+
+Mr. Houston of Tennessee, after having attained the honour of being
+governor of his state, and having enjoyed all the consideration
+necessarily attached to that office, at length became tired of civilized
+life, and retired among the Creeks to end his days. He has resided long
+among them, and knows their character well; yet, in one of his statements
+made to the Indian board at New York, he says, that the attempts to
+Christianize the Indians in their present state, he was of opinion, much
+as he honoured the zeal that had prompted them, were fruitless, _or
+worse._ The supposed conversions had produced no change of habits. So
+degraded had become the character of this once independent people, that
+professions of religious belief had been made, and the ordinances of
+religion submitted to, "when an Indian wanted a new blanket, or a squaw a
+new gown."[19] Thus, according to governor Houston, the only fruits
+produced by the boasted labours of the missionaries, have been
+dissimulation and deceit; and demoralization has been the result of
+teaching _doctrinal_ Christianity to the children of the forest. Yet we
+must, in candour, acknowledge that Mr. Houston is not singular in that
+opinion, since we find, so far back as the year 1755, Cadwallader Calden
+express himself much to the same effect. "The Five Nations," he says, "are
+a poor and generally called barbarous people, bred under the darkest
+ignorance; and yet a bright and noble genius shines through these black
+clouds. None of the greatest Roman heroes have discovered a greater love
+of country, or contempt of death, than these people, called barbarous,
+have shown when liberty came in competition. Indeed I think our Indians
+have outdone the Romans in this particular. Some of the greatest of those
+Roman heroes have murdered themselves to avoid shame or torments; but our
+Indians have refused to die meanly or with little pain, when they thought
+their country's honour would be at stake by it; but have given their
+bodies willingly to the most cruel torments of their enemies, to show, as
+they said, that 'the Five Nations' consisted of men whose courage and
+resolution could not be shaken. But what, alas! have we Christians done to
+make them better? We have, indeed, reason to be ashamed that these
+infidels, by our conversation and neighbourhood, are become worse than
+they were before they knew us. Instead of virtue, we have only taught them
+vice, that they were entirely free from before that time."[20] The Rev.
+Timothy Flint, who was himself a missionary, in his "Ten Years' Residence
+in the Valley of the Mississippi," observes, page 144,--"I have surely
+had it in my heart to impress them with the importance of the subject
+(religion). I have scarcely noticed an instance in which the subject was
+not received either with indifference, rudeness, or jesting. Of all races
+of men that I have seen, they seem most incapable of religious
+impressions. They have, indeed, some notions of an invisible agent, but
+they seemed generally to think that the Indians had their god as the
+whites had theirs." And again, "nothing will eventually be gained to the
+great cause by colouring and mis-statement," alluding to the practice of
+the missionaries; "and however reluctant we may be to receive it, the real
+state of things will eventually be known to us. We have heard of the
+imperishable labours of an Elliott and a Brainard, in other days. But in
+these times it is a melancholy truth, that Protestant exertions to
+Christianize them have not been marked with apparent success. The
+Catholics have caused many to hang a crucifix around their necks, which
+they show as they show their medals and other ornaments, and this is too
+often all they have to mark them as Christians. We have read the
+narratives of the Catholics, which detailed the most glowing and animating
+views of success. I have had accounts, however, from travellers in these
+regions, that have been over the Stony mountains into the great missionary
+settlements of St. Peter and St. Paul. These travellers (and some of them
+were professed Catholics) unite in affirming that the converts will escape
+from the missions whenever it is in their power, fly into their native
+deserts, and resume at once their old mode of life."
+
+That the vast sums expended on missions should have produced so little
+effect, we may consider lamentable, but it is lamentably true; for in
+addition to the mass of evidence we have to that effect, from
+disinterested white men, we have also the speeches and communications of
+the Indians themselves. The celebrated Seneca chief, Saguyuwhaha (keeper
+awake), better known in the United States by the name of Red-jacket, in a
+letter communicated to Governor De Witt Clinton, at a treaty held at
+Albany, says, "Our great father, the President, has recommended to our
+young men to be industrious, to plough and to sow. This we have done; and
+we are thankful for the advice, and for the means he has afforded us of
+carrying it into effect. We are happier in consequence of it; _but another
+thing recommended to us, has created great confusion among us, and is
+making us a quarrelsome and divided people; and that is, the introduction
+of preachers into our nation_. These black-coats contrive to get the
+consent of some of the Indians to preach among us; and whenever this is
+the case, confusion and disorder are sure to follow, and the encroachment
+of the whites on our lands is the inevitable consequence.
+
+"The governor must not think hard of me for speaking thus of the
+preachers: I have observed their progress, and whenever I look back to
+see what has taken place of old, I perceive that whenever they came among
+the Indians, they were the forerunners of their dispersion; that they
+always excited enmities and quarrels amongst them; that they introduced
+the white people on their lands, by whom they were robbed and plundered of
+their property; and that the Indians were sure to dwindle and decrease,
+and be driven back, in proportion to the number of preachers that came
+among them.
+
+"Each nation has its own customs and its own religion. The Indians have
+theirs, given them by the Great Spirit, under which they were happy. It
+was not intended that they should embrace the religion of the whites, and
+be destroyed by the attempt to make them think differently on that subject
+from their fathers.
+
+"It is true, these preachers have got the consent of some of the chiefs to
+stay and preach amongst us; but I and my friends know this to be wrong,
+and that they ought to be removed; besides, we have been threatened by Mr.
+Hyde--who came among us as a schoolmaster and a teacher of our children,
+but has now become a black-coat, and refuses to teach them any more--that
+unless we listen to his preaching and become Christians, we shall be
+turned off our lands. We wish to know from the governor, if this is to be
+so? and if he has no right to say so, we think _he_ ought to be turned off
+our lands, and not allowed to plague us any more. We shall never be at
+peace while he is among us.
+
+"We are afraid too, that these preachers, by and by, will become poor,
+_and force us to pay them for living among us, and disturbing us._
+
+"Some of our chiefs have got lazy, and instead of cultivating their lands
+themselves, employ white people to do so. There are now eleven families
+living on our reservation at Buffalo; this is wrong, and ought not to be
+permitted. The great source of all our grievances is, that the whites are
+among us. Let _them_ be removed, and we will be happy and contented among
+ourselves. We now cry to the governor for help, and hope that he will
+attend to our complaints, and speedily give us redress."[21]
+
+This melancholy hostility to the missionaries is not confined to a
+particular tribe or nation of Indians, for all those people, in every
+situation, from the base of the Alleghanies to the foot of the Rocky
+mountains, declare the same sentiments on this subject; and although
+policy or courtesy may induce some chiefs to express themselves less
+strongly than Red-jacket has expressed himself, we have but too many
+proofs that their feelings are not more moderate. On the fourth of
+February, 1822, the president of the United States, in council, received a
+deputation of Indians, from the principal nations west of the
+Mississippi, who came under the protection of Major O'Fallon, when each
+chief delivered a speech on the occasion. I shall here insert an extract
+from that of the "Wandering Pawnee" chief, more as a specimen of Indian
+wisdom and eloquence than as bearing particularly on the subject. Speaking
+of the Great Spirit, he said, "We worship him not as you do. We differ
+from you in appearance, and manners, as well as in our customs; and we
+differ from you in our religion. We have no large houses, as you have, to
+worship the Great Spirit in: if we had them to-day, we should want others
+to-morrow; for we have not like you a fixed habitation--we have no settled
+home except our villages, where we remain but two months in twelve. We,
+like animals, rove through the country; whilst you whites reside between
+us and heaven. But still, my great Father, we love the Great Spirit--we
+acknowledge his supreme power--our peace, our health, and our happiness
+depend upon him, and our lives belong to him--he made us, and he can
+destroy us.
+
+"My great Father,--some of your good chiefs, as they are called
+(missionaries), have proposed to send some of their good people among us
+to change our habits, to make us work for them, and live like the white
+people. I will not tell a lie--I am going to tell the truth. You love your
+country--you love your people--you love the manner in which they live, and
+you think your people brave. I am like you, my great Father; I love my
+country--I love my people--I love the manner in which we live, and think
+myself and warriors brave.[22] Spare me then, my Father; let me enjoy my
+country, and pursue the buffalo and the beaver, and the other wild animals
+of our country, and I will trade their skins with your people. I have
+grown up and lived thus long without work--I am in hopes you will suffer
+me to die without it. We have plenty of buffalo, beaver, deer, and other
+wild animals--we have also an abundance of horses--we have every thing we
+want--we have plenty of land, _if you will keep your people off it_. My
+Father has a piece on which he lives (Council bluffs), and we wish him to
+enjoy it--we have enough without it--but we wish him to live near us, to
+give us good council--to keep our ears and eyes open, that we may continue
+to pursue the right road--the road to happiness. He settles all
+differences between us and the whites, between the red-skins
+themselves--he makes the whites do justice to the red-skins, and he makes
+the red-skins do justice to the whites. He saves the effusion of human
+blood, and restores peace and happiness in the land. You have already sent
+us a father (Major O'Fallon); it is enough--he knows us, and we know
+him--we keep our eye constantly upon him, and since we have heard _your_
+words, we will listen more attentively to _his_.
+
+"It is too soon, my great Father, to send those good chiefs amongst us.
+_We are not starving yet_--we wish you to permit us to enjoy the chase
+until the game of our country is exhausted--until the wild animals become
+extinct. Let us exhaust our present resources before you make us toil and
+interrupt our happiness. Let me continue to live as I have done; and after
+I have passed to the good or evil spirit, from off the wilderness of my
+present life, the subsistence of my children may become so precarious as
+to need and embrace the assistance of those good people.
+
+"There was a time when we did not know the whites--our wants were then
+fewer than they are now. They were always within our control--we had then
+seen nothing which we could not get. Before our intercourse with the
+whites (who have caused such a destruction in our game) we could lie down
+to sleep, and when we awoke we would find the buffalo feeding around our
+camp--but now we are killing them for their skins, and feeding the wolves
+with their flesh, to make our children cry over their bones.
+
+"Here, my great Father, is a pipe which I present to you, as I am
+accustomed to present pipes to all the Red-skins in peace with us. It is
+filled with such tobacco as we were accustomed to smoke before we knew
+the white people. It is pleasant, and the spontaneous growth of the most
+remote parts of our country. I know that the robes, leggings, and
+moccasins, and bear-claws are of little value to _you_; but we wish you to
+have them deposited and preserved in some conspicuous part of your lodge,
+so that when we are gone and the sod turned over our bones, if our
+children should visit this place, as we do now, they may see and recognize
+with pleasure the depositories of their fathers; and reflect on the times
+that are past."
+
+I shall now take leave of the Indians and their political condition, by
+observing that the proceedings of the American government, throughout,
+towards this brave but unfortunate race, have only been exceeded in
+atrocity by the past and present conduct of the East India government
+towards the pusillanimous but unoffending Hindoos.
+
+    _Note_.--This chapter I wrote during my stay in Kentucky, and the
+    first part of it, in substance, was inserted in the "Kentucky
+    Intelligencer," at the request of the talented editor and
+    proprietor, John Mullay, Esq.
+
+FOOTNOTES:
+
+[15] In November, 1785, during the articles of confederation, a treaty is
+concluded with the Cherokees, which establishes a boundary, and allots to
+the Indians a great extent of country, now within the limits of North
+Carolina and Georgia.
+
+In 1791, the treaty of Holston is concluded; by which a new boundary is
+agreed upon. This was the first treaty made by the United States under
+their present constitution; and by the seventh article, a solemn
+guarantee is given for all the lands not then ceded.
+
+On the 7th of February, 1792, by an additional article to the last
+treaty, 500 dollars are added to the stipulated annuity.
+
+In June, 1794, another treaty is entered into, in which the provisions of
+the treaty of 1791 are revived, an addition is made to the annuity, and
+provision made for marking the boundary line.
+
+In October, 1798, a treaty is concluded which revives former treaties,
+and curtails the boundary of Indian lands by a cession to the United
+States, for an additional compensation.
+
+In October, 1804, a treaty is concluded, by which, for a consideration
+specified, more land is ceded.
+
+In October, 1805, two treaties are made, by which an additional quantity
+of land is ceded.
+
+On 7th January, 1806, by another treaty, more land is ceded to the United
+States.
+
+In September, 1807, the boundary line intended in the last treaty, is
+satisfactorily ascertained.
+
+On 22d March, 1816, a treaty is concluded, by which lands in South
+Carolina are ceded, for which the United States engage South Carolina
+shall pay. On the same day another treaty is made, by which the Indians
+agree to allow the use of the water-courses in their country, and also to
+permit roads to be made through the same.
+
+On the 14th of September, 1816, a treaty is made, by which an additional
+quantity of land is ceded to the United States.
+
+On the 8th of July, 1817, a treaty is concluded, by which an exchange of
+lands is agreed on, and a plan for dividing the Cherokees settled.
+
+On the 27th of February, 1819, another treaty is concluded, in execution
+of the stipulations contained in that of 1817, in several particulars,
+and in which an additional tract of country is ceded to the United
+States.
+
+[16] "The white hunter, on encamping in his journeys, cuts down green
+trees, and builds a large fire of long logs, sitting at some distance
+from it. The Indian hunts up a few dry limbs, cracks them into little
+pieces a foot in length, builds a small fire, and sits close to it. He
+gets as much warmth as the white hunter without half the labour, and does
+not burn more than a fiftieth part of the wood. The Indian considers the
+forest his own, and is careful in using and preserving every thing which
+it affords. He never kills more than he has occasion for. The white
+hunter destroys all before him, and cannot resist the opportunity of
+killing game, although he neither wants the meat nor can carry the skins.
+I was particularly struck with this wanton practice, which lately
+occurred on White river. A hunter returning from the woods, heavily laden
+with the flesh and skins of five bears, unexpectedly arrived in the midst
+of a drove of buffalos, and wantonly shot down three, having no other
+object than the sport of killing them. This is one of the causes
+of the enmity existing between the white and red hunters of
+Missouri".--_Schoolcroft's Tour in Missouri_, page 52.
+
+[17] Does the General include among the arts of civilization, that of
+systematically robbing the Indians of their farms and hunting grounds? If
+so, no doubt _these arts of civilization_, must inevitably "destroy the
+resources of the savage," and "doom him to weakness and decay."
+
+[18] The Indians apply the term "Christian honesty," precisely in the
+same sense that the Romans applied "_Punica fides_."
+
+[19] There is an old Indian at present in the Missouri territory, to whom
+his tribe has given the cognomen of "much-water," from the circumstance
+of his having been baptized so frequently.
+
+[20] Heriot says (page 320), "They have evinced a decided attachment to
+their ancient habits, and have _gained_ less from the means that might
+have smoothed the asperities of their condition, than they have _lost_ by
+copying the vices of those, who exhibited to their view the arts of
+civilization."
+
+[21] This letter was dictated by Red-jacket, and interpreted by Henry
+Obeal, in the presence of ten chiefs, whose names are affixed, at
+Canandaigua, January 18, 1821.
+
+[22] "The attachment which savages entertain for their mode of life
+supersedes every allurement, however powerful, to change it. Many
+Frenchmen have lived with them, and have imbibed such an invincible
+partiality for that independent and erratic condition, that no means
+could prevail on them to abandon it. On the contrary, no single instance
+has yet occurred of a savage being able to reconcile himself to a state
+of civilization. Infants have been taken from among the natives, and
+educated with much care in France, where they could not possibly have
+intercourse with their countrymen and relations. Although they had
+remained several years in that country, and could not form the smallest
+idea of the wilds of America, the force of blood predominated over that
+of education: no sooner did they find themselves at liberty than they
+tore their clothes in pieces, and went to traverse the forests in search
+of their countrymen, whose mode of life appeared to them far more
+agreeable than that which they had led among the French."--_-Heriot_, p.
+354.
+
+This passage of Heriot's is taken nearly verbatim from Charlevoix, v. 2,
+p. 109.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER X.
+
+
+I left Kentucky, and passed up the river to Wheeling, in Virginia. There
+is little worthy of observation encountered in a passage up this part of
+the Ohio, except the peculiar character of the stream, which has been
+before alluded to. At Marietta, at the mouth of the Muskingum,
+ship-building is carried on; and vessels have been constructed at
+Pittsburg, full 2000 miles from the gulf of Mexico. About seventy miles up
+the Kenhawa river, in Virginia, are situated the celebrated salt springs,
+the most productive of any in the Union. They are at present in the
+possession of a chartered company, which limits the manufacture to
+800,000 bushels annually, but it is estimated that the fifty-seven wells
+are capable of yielding 50,000 bushels each, per annum, which would make
+an aggregate of 2,850,000 bushels. Many of these springs issue out of
+rocks, and the water is so strongly impregnated with salt, that from 90 to
+130 gallons yield a bushel. The whole western country bordering the Ohio
+and its tributaries, is supplied with salt from these works.
+
+Wheeling, although not large, enjoys a considerable share of commercial
+intercourse, being an entrepot for eastern merchandize, which is
+transported from the Atlantic cities across the mountains to this town and
+Pittsburg, and from thence by water to the different towns along the
+rivers.
+
+The process of "hauling" merchandize from Baltimore and Philadelphia to
+the banks of the Ohio, and _vice versa_, is rather tedious, the roads
+lying across steep and rugged mountains. Large covered waggons, light and
+strong, drawn by five or six horses, two and two, are employed for this
+purpose. The waggoner always rides the near shaft horse, and guides the
+team by means of reins, a whip, and his voice. The time generally consumed
+in one of these journeys is from twenty to twenty-five days.
+
+All the mountains or hills on the upper part of the Ohio, from Wheeling to
+Pittsburg, contain immense beds of coal; this added to the mineral
+productions, particularly that of iron ore, which abound in this section
+of country, offers advantages for manufacturing, which are of considerable
+importance, and are fully appreciated. Pittsburg is called the Birmingham
+of America. Some of those coal beds are well circumstanced, the coal being
+found immediately under the super-stratum, and the galleries frequently
+running out on the high road. Notwithstanding the local advantages, and
+the protection and encouragement at present afforded by the tariff,
+England need never fear any extensive competition with her manufactures
+in foreign markets from America, as the high spirit of the people of that
+country will always prevent them from pursuing, extensively, the sordid
+occupations of the loom or the workshop.
+
+The upper parts of Virginia and Pennsylvania are in a high state of
+improvement; the land is hilly, and the face of the country picturesque.
+The farms are well cultivated, and there is a large portion of pasture
+land in this and the adjoining states. I encountered several large droves
+of horses and black cattle on their way to the neighbourhood of
+Philadelphia and to the state of New York. The black cattle are purchased
+principally in Ohio, whence they are brought into the Atlantic states, to
+be fattened and consumed. The farmers and their families in Pennsylvania,
+have an appearance of comfort and respectability a good deal resembling
+that of the substantial English yeoman; yet farming here, as in all parts
+of the country, is a laborious occupation.
+
+I crossed the Monongahela at Williamsport, and the Youghaghany at
+Robstown, and so on through Mountpleasant to the first ridge of mountains,
+called "the chestnut ridge." I determined on crossing the mountains on
+foot; and after having made arrangements to that effect, I commenced
+sauntering along the road. Near Mountpleasant, I stopped to dine at the
+house of a Dutchman by descent. After dinner, the party adjourned, as is
+customary, to the bar-room, when divers political and polemical topics
+were canvassed with the usual national warmth. An account of his late
+Majesty's death was inserted in a Philadelphia paper, and happened to be
+noticed by one of the politicians present, when the landlord asked me how
+we elected our king in England. I replied that he was not elected, but
+that he became king by birthright, &c. A Kentuckian observed, placing his
+leg on the back of the next chair, "That's a kind of unnatural." An
+Indianian said, "I don't believe in that system myself." A third--"Do you
+mean to tell me, that because the last king was a smart man and knew his
+duty, that his son, or his brother, should be a smart man, and fit for the
+situation?" I explained that we had a premier, ministers, &c.;--when the
+last gentleman replied, "Then you pay half-a-dozen men to do one man's
+business. Yes--yes--that may do for Englishmen very well; but, I guess, it
+would not go down here--no, no, Americans are a little more enlightened
+than to stand that kind of wiggery." During this conversation, a person
+had stepped into the room, and had taken his seat in silence. I was about
+to reply to the last observations of my antagonist, when this gentleman
+opened out, with, "yes! that may do for Englishmen very well"--he was an
+Englishman, I knew at once by his accent, and I verily believe the
+identical radical who set the village of Bracebridge by the ears, and
+pitched the villagers to the devil, on seeing them grin through a
+horse-collar, when they should have been calculating the interest of the
+national debt, or conning over the list of sinecure placemen. He held in
+his hand, instead of "Cobbett's Register," the "Greenville
+Republican."--He had substituted for his short-sleeved coat, "a
+round-about."--He seemed to have put on flesh, and looked somewhat more
+contented. "Yes, yes," he says, "that may do for Englishmen very well, but
+it won't do here. Here we make our own laws, and we keep them too. It may
+do for Englishmen very well, to have _the liberty_ of paying taxes for the
+support of the nobility. To have _the liberty_ of being incarcerated in a
+gaol, for shooting the wild animals of the country. To have _the liberty_
+of being seized by a press-gang, torn away from their wives and families,
+and flogged at the discretion of my lord Tom, Dick, or Harry's bastard."
+At this, the Kentuckian gnashed his teeth, and instinctively grasped his
+hunting-knife;--an old Indian doctor, who was squatting in one corner of
+the room, said, slowly and emphatically, as his eyes glared, his nostrils
+dilated, and his lip curled with contempt--"The Englishman is a
+dog"--while a Georgian slave, who stood behind his master's chair, grinned
+and chuckled with delight, as he said--"_poor_ Englishman, him meaner man
+den black nigger."--"To have," continued the Englishman, "_the liberty_ of
+being transported for seven years for being caught learning the use of the
+sword or the musket. To have the tenth lamb, and the tenth sheaf seized,
+or the blanket torn from off his bed, to pay a bloated, a plethoric bishop
+or parson,--to be kicked and cuffed about by a parcel of 'Bourbon
+_gendarmerie_'--Liberty!--why hell sweat"--here I--slipped out at the side
+door into the water-melon patch. As I receded, I heard the whole party
+burst out into an obstreperous fit of laughter.--A few broken sentences,
+from the Kentuckian and the radical, reached my ear, such as "backed
+out"--"damned aristocratic." I returned in about half an hour to pay my
+bill, when I could observe one or two of those doughty politicians who
+remained, leering at me most significantly. However, I--"smiled, and said
+nothing."
+
+"The Chestnut ridge" is a chain of rocky, barren mountains, covered with
+wood, and the ascent is steep and difficult. It is named from the quantity
+of chestnut trees that compose the bulk of its timber. Being a little
+fatigued in ascending, I sat down in a wood of scrub oak. When I had been
+some time seated on a large stone, my ear caught the gliding of a snake.
+Turning quickly, I perceived, at about a yard's distance, a reptile of
+that beautiful species the rattle-snake. He ceased moving: I jumped up,
+and struck at his head with a stick, but missed the blow. He instantly
+coiled and rattled. I now retreated beyond the range of his spring.
+Perceiving that I had no intention of giving him fair play by coming
+within his reach, he suddenly uncoiled and glid across a log, thinking to
+make good his retreat; but being determined on having--not his scalp, for
+the head of a rattle-snake is rather a dangerous toy--but his rattle, I
+pursued him across the log. He now coiled again, and rattled most
+furiously, thus indicating his extreme wrath at being attacked: the bite
+of this reptile is most venomous when he is most enraged. I took up a flat
+stone, about six inches square, and lobbed it on his coil. He suddenly
+darted out towards me; but, as I had anticipated, he was encumbered with
+the stone. I now advanced, and struck him on the head with my stick. I
+repeated the blow until he seemed to be deprived of sensation, when I drew
+my hunting knife and decapitated him. For a full hour afterwards the body
+retained all the vigour and sensitiveness which it possessed previous to
+decapitation, and on touching any part of it, would twist round in the
+same manner as when the animal was perfect. Sensation gradually
+disappeared, departing first from the extremities--more towards the
+wounded extremity than towards the other, but gradually from both, until
+it was entirely gone. The length of this reptile was about four feet, and
+the skin was extremely beautiful. Nothing could exceed the beauty of his
+eye. A clear black lustre characterizes the eye of this animal, and is
+said to produce so powerful an effect on birds and smaller animals, as to
+deprive them of the power of escaping. This snake had eight rattles, so
+that he must have been at least eleven years old. I understood afterwards
+that there was a rattle-snakes' den in the neighbourhood. They appear to
+live in society, and the large quantities that are frequently found
+congregated together are astonishing. The Jacksonville (Illinois) Gazette
+of the 22d April, 1830, says, "Last week, a den of rattle-snakes was
+discovered near Apple Creek, by a person while engaged in digging for rock
+in that part of our country. He made known the circumstance to the
+neighbours, who visited the place, where they killed 193 rattle-snakes,
+the largest of which (as our informant, who was on the spot, told us)
+measured nearly four feet in length. Besides these, there were sixteen
+black snakes destroyed, together with one copper-head. Counting the young
+ones, there were upwards of 1000 killed." There are two species of
+rattle-snake, which are in constant hostility with each other. The common
+black snake, whose bite is perfectly innoxious, and the copper-head, have
+also a deadly enmity towards the rattle-snake, which, when they meet it,
+they never fail to attack.
+
+The next ridge of mountains is called the "laurel hills," which are
+covered with an immense growth of different species of laurel. Between
+these and the Alleghany ridge are situated "the glades"--beautiful fertile
+plains in a high state of cultivation. This district is most healthy, and
+fevers and agues are unknown to the inhabitants. Here the "Delawares of
+the hills" once roamed the sole lords of this fine country; and perhaps
+from the very eminence from whence I contemplated the beauty of the scene,
+some warrior, returning from the "war path" or the chase, may have gazed
+with pleasure on the hills of his fathers, the possessions of a long line
+of Sylvan heros, and in the pride of manhood said--'The Delawares are
+men--they are strong in battle, and cunning on the trail of their foes--at
+the 'council fire' there is wisdom in their words. Who counts more scalps
+than the Lenni Lenape warrior?--he can never be conquered--the stranger
+shall never dwell in his glades.' Where now is the "Delaware of the
+hills?"--gone!--his very name is unknown in his own land, and not a
+vestige remains to tell that _there_ once dwelt a great and powerful
+tribe. When the white man falls, his high towers and lofty battlements are
+laid crumbling with the dust, yet these mighty ruins remain for ages,
+monuments of his former greatness: but the Indian passes away, silent as
+the noiseless tread of the moccasin--the next snow comes, and his "trail"
+is blotted out for ever.
+
+I toiled across the Alleghanies, which are completely covered with timber,
+and passed on to a place within about thirty miles of Chambersburg, on a
+branch of the Potomac. Here, coming in upon _civilization_, I took the
+stage to Baltimore. In my pedestrian excursion the road lay for several
+miles along the banks of the Juniata, which is a very fine river. The
+scenery is romantic, and is much beautified by a large growth of
+magnificent pines. The Alleghany ridge is composed chiefly of sand-stone,
+clay-slate, and lime-stone-slate, sand-stone sometimes in large blocks.
+
+I encountered several parties of French, Irish, Swiss, Bavarians, Dutch,
+&c. going westward, with swarms of children, and considerable quantities
+of household lumber:--symptoms of seeking _El dorado_.
+
+In the neighbourhood of Baltimore there are many handsome residences, and
+the farms are all well cleared, and in many cases walled in. The number of
+comparatively miserable-looking cabins which are dispersed along the road
+near this town, and the long lists of crimes and misdemeanours with which
+the Journals of Baltimore and Philadelphia are filled, sufficiently
+indicate that these cities have arrived to an advanced state of
+civilization. For, wherever there are very rich people, there must be very
+poor people; and wherever there are very poor people, there must
+necessarily exist a proportionate quantity of crime. Men are poor, only
+because they are ignorant; for if they possessed a knowledge of their own
+powers and capabilities, they would then know, that however wealth may be
+distributed, all real wealth is created by labour, and by labour alone.
+
+Baltimore is seated on the north side of the Patapsco river, within a few
+miles of the Chesapeak bay. It received its name in compliment to the
+Irish family of the Calverts. The harbour, at Fell Point, has about
+eighteen feet water, and is defended by a strong fort, called Mc Henry's
+fort, on Observation Hill. Vessels of large tonnage cannot enter the
+basin. In 1791 it contained 13,503 inhabitants; in 1810, 46,487; and at
+present it contains 80,519. There are many fine buildings and monuments in
+this city; and the streets in which business is not extensively
+transacted, are planted with Lombardy poplar, locust, and pride-of-china
+trees,--the last mentioned especially afford a fine shade.
+
+A considerable schooner trade is carried on by the merchants of Baltimore
+with South America. The schooners of this port are celebrated for their
+beauty, and are much superior to those of any other port on the Continent.
+They are sharp built, somewhat resembling the small Greek craft one sees
+in the Mediterranean. A rail-road is being constructed from this place to
+the Ohio river, a distance of upwards of three hundred miles, and about
+fourteen miles of the road is already completed, as is also a viaduct. If
+the enterprising inhabitants of Baltimore be able to finish this
+undertaking, it must necessarily throw a very large amount of wealth into
+their hands, to the prejudice of Philadelphia and New York. But the
+expense will be enormous.
+
+I left Baltimore for Philadelphia in one of those splendid and spacious
+steam-boats peculiar to this country. We paddled up the Chesapeak bay
+until we came to Elk river--the scenery at both sides is charming. A
+little distance up this river commences the "Chesapeak and Delaware
+canal," which passes through the old state of Delaware, and unites the
+waters of the two bays. Here we were handed into a barge, or what we in
+common parlance would term a large canal boat; but the Americans are the
+fondest people in the universe of big names, and ransack the Dictionary
+for the most pompous appellations with which to designate their works or
+productions. The universal fondness for European titles that obtains here,
+is also remarkable. The president, is "his excellency,"--"congressmen,"
+are "honorables,"--and every petty merchant, or "dry-goods store-keeper,"
+is, at least, an esquire. Their newspapers contain many specimens of this
+love of monarchical distinctions--such as, "wants a situation, as
+store-keeper (shopman), a gentleman, &c." "Two gentlemen were convicted
+and sentenced to six months' imprisonment for horse-stealing, &c." These
+two items I read myself in the papers of the western country, and the
+latter was commented on by a Philadelphia journal. You may frequently see
+"Miss Amanda," without shoes or stockings--certainly for convenience or
+economy, not from necessity, and generally in Dutch houses--and "that
+_ere_ young lady" scouring the pails! An accident lately occurred in one
+of the factories in New England, and the local paper stated, that "one
+young lady was seriously injured,"--this young lady was a spinner.
+Observe, I by no means object to the indiscriminate use of the terms
+_gentleman_ and _lady_, but merely state the fact. On the contrary, so far
+am I from finding fault with the practice, that I think it quite fair;
+when any portion of republicans make use of terms which properly belong to
+a monarchy, that all classes should do the same, it being unquestionably
+their right. It does not follow, because a man may be introduced as an
+_American gentleman_, that he may not be simply a mechanic.
+
+The Chesapeak and Delaware canal is about fourteen miles in length; and
+from the nature of the soil through which it is cut, there was some
+difficulty attending the permanent security of the work. On reaching the
+Delaware, we were again handed into a steamer, and so conducted to
+Philadelphia. The merchant shipping, and the numerous pleasure and
+steam-boats, and craft of every variety, which are constantly moving on
+the broad bosom of the Delaware, present a gay and animated scene.
+
+Philadelphia is a regular well-built city, and one of the handsomest in
+the states. It lies in latitude 39 deg. 56' north, and longitude, west of
+London, 75 deg. 8'; distant from the sea, 120 miles. The city stands on an
+elevated piece of ground between the Schuylkill and Delaware rivers, about
+a mile broad from bank to bank, and six miles from their junction. The
+Delaware is about a mile wide at Philadelphia, and ships of the largest
+tonnage can approach the wharf. The city contains many fine buildings of
+Schuylkill marble. The streets are well paved, and have broad _trottoirs_
+of hard red brick. The police regulations are excellent, and cleanliness
+is much attended to, the kennels being washed daily during the summer
+months, with water from the reservoirs. The markets, or shambles, extend
+half-a-mile in length, from the wharf up Market-street, in six divisions.
+In addition to the shambles, farmers' waggons, loaded with every kind of
+country produce for sale, line the street.
+
+There are five banking establishments in the city: the Bank of North
+America, the United States Bank, the Bank of Pennsylvania, the Bank of
+Philadelphia, and the Farmers' Bank.
+
+The principal institutions are, the Franklin library, which contains
+upwards of 20,000 volumes. Strangers are admitted gratis, and are
+permitted to peruse any of the books. The Americans should adopt this
+practice in all their national exhibitions, and rather copy the liberality
+of the French than the sordid churlishness of the English, who compel
+foreigners to pay even for seeing the property of the nation. The other
+institutions are, the University of Pennsylvania, a College, Medical
+Theatre, College of Physicians, Philosophical Hall, Agricultural and
+Linnean Societies, Academy of Fine Arts, and the Cincinnati Society, which
+originated in an attempt to establish a sort of aristocracy. The members
+were at its formation the surviving officers of the revolution; they wear
+an eagle, suspended by a ribbon, which, at their death, they have
+appointed to be taken by their eldest sons. There are besides, the
+Academies of the Philadelphian Friends, and the German Lutherans; Sunday
+and Lancasterian schools; and, of course, divers Bible and Tract
+Societies, which are patronized by all the antiquated dames in the city,
+and superintended by the Methodist and Presbyterian parsons. The Methodist
+parsons of this country have the character of being men of gallantry; and
+indeed, from the many instances I have heard of their propensity in this
+way, from young Americans, I should be a very sceptic to doubt the fact.
+
+There are also St. George's, St. Patrick's, St. David's, and St. Andrew's
+Societies for the relief and colonization of British emigrants; a French
+and a German Emigrant Society, and several hospitals. There are two
+theatres and an amphitheatre. Peal's Museum contains a large collection,
+which is scientifically arranged; among other fossils is the perfect
+skeleton of a mammoth, found in a bed of marle in the state of New York.
+The length of this animal, from the bend of the tusks to the rump, was
+about twenty-seven feet, and the height and bulk proportionate.
+
+The navy-yard contains large quantities of timber, spars, and rigging,
+prepared for immediate use, as also warlike stores of every description.
+There is here, a ship of 140 guns, of large calibre, and a frigate. Both
+are housed completely, and in a condition to be launched in a few months,
+if necessary. They are constructed of the very best materials, and in the
+most durable and solid manner. There are now being constructed, seriatim,
+twenty-five ships of the line--one for every state in the Union. The
+government occasionally sells the smaller vessels of war to merchants, in
+order to increase the shipping, and to secure that those armed vessels
+which are afloat, may be in the finest possible condition. A corvette,
+completely equipped, was lately sold to his majesty the autocrat of the
+Russias; but was dismasted in a day or two after her departure from
+Charleston. She was taken in tow by the vessel of a New York merchant, and
+carried into the port of that city. The merchant refused any compensation
+from the Russian minister, although his vessel was, when she fell in with
+the wreck, proceeding to the Austral regions, and her putting about was
+greatly disadvantageous. The minister returned thanks publicly, on the
+part of his master, and expressed his majesty's sense of the invariable
+consideration and friendship with which his majesty's subjects are treated
+by the citizens of America. There appears to be a universal wish among the
+Americans to cultivate an alliance, offensive and defensive, with his
+majesty of Russia. The cry is, "all the Russians want is a fleet, and
+we'll lend them that." In fact, a deadly animosity pervades America
+towards Great Britain; and although it is not publicly confessed, for the
+Americans are too able politicians to do that, yet it is no less certain,
+that "_Delenda est Carthago_," is their motto. Let England look to it. Her
+power is great; but, if the fleets of America, France, and Russia, were to
+combine, and land on the shores of England hordes of Russians, and
+battalions of disciplined Frenchmen--if this were to be done, with the
+Irish people, instead of allies as they should be, her deadly enemies, her
+power is annihilated at a blow! For let it be remembered, that there is no
+rallying principle in the temperament of the mass of the English people;
+and that formerly one single victory,--the victory of Hastings, completely
+subjugated them. Hume, who was decidedly an impartial historian, is
+compelled to say of that conquest, "It would be difficult to find in all
+history a revolution more destructive, or attended with a more complete
+subjection of the ancient inhabitants. Contumely seems even to have been
+wantonly added to oppression; and the natives were universally reduced to
+such a state of meanness and poverty, that the English name became a term
+of reproach; and several generations elapsed before one family of Saxon
+pedigree was raised to any considerable honours, or could so much as
+obtain the rank of baron of the realm."--Yet the English people owe much
+to the ancestors of the aristocracy, who introduced among them the arts
+and refinements of civilization, and by their wisdom and disciplined
+valour have raised the country to that pitch of greatness, so justly
+termed "the envy of surrounding nations." I do not contend, that because a
+nation may have acquired the name of great, that therefore _the people_
+are more happy; but am rather inclined to think the contrary, for
+conquests are generally made and wealth is accumulated for the benefit of
+the few, and at the expense of the many.
+
+A law has been lately passed by the legislature of Pennsylvania, taxing
+wholesale and retail dealers in merchandize, excepting those importers of
+foreign goods who vend the articles in the form in which they are
+imported. This act classes the citizens according to their annual amount
+of sales, and taxes them in the same proportion. Those who effect sales to
+the amount of fifty thousand dollars, constitute the first class; of forty
+thousand dollars, the second class; of thirty thousand dollars, the third
+class; of twenty thousand dollars, the fourth class; of fifteen thousand
+dollars, the fifth class; of ten thousand dollars, the sixth class; of
+five thousand dollars, the seventh class; and all persons effecting sales
+not exceeding two thousand five hundred dollars, constitute the eighth
+class. The first class shall pay for license, annually, fifty dollars; the
+second class, forty dollars; the third class, thirty dollars; the fourth
+class, twenty-five dollars; the fifth class, twenty dollars; the sixth
+class, fifteen dollars; the seventh class, twelve dollars and fifty cents,
+and the eighth class ten dollars.
+
+Direct taxation has been found in all cases to be obnoxious, and this
+particular mode, I apprehend, is calculated to produce very pernicious
+effects. The laws of a republic should all tend to establish and support,
+as far as is practicable, the principle of equality, and any act that has
+a contrary tendency must be injurious to the community. Now this act draws
+a direct line of demarcation between citizens, in proportion to the extent
+of their dealings; and as in this country a man's importance is entirely
+estimated by his supposed wealth, the citizens of Pennsylvania can
+henceforth only claim a share of respectability, proportionate to the
+_class_ to which they belong. The west country ladies have shewn a great
+aptitude for forming "circles of society," and the promulgation of this
+law affords them a most powerful aid in establishing a _store-keeping
+aristocracy_.
+
+The large cities in America are by no means so lightly taxed as might be
+supposed from the cheapness of the government; the public works, public
+buildings, and police establishments, requiring adequate funds for their
+maintenance and support; however, the inhabitants have the consolation of
+knowing that this must gradually decrease, and that their money is laid
+out for their own advantage, and not for the purpose of pensioning off the
+mistresses and physicians of viceroys, as in Ireland.[23] Another thing is
+to be observed, that in addition to the _national_ debt, each state has a
+_private_ debt, which in many cases is tolerably large. These debts have
+been created by expenditures on roads, canals, and public buildings. The
+mode of taxation latterly adopted by the legislature is not popular, and
+many of the public prints have remonstrated against the system. "The
+Philadelphia Gazette," of the 24th Sept. 1830, makes the following
+remarks--"The subject of unequal and oppressive taxation deserves more
+attention than it has hitherto received from our citizens. The misery of
+England is occasioned less by the amount of revenue that is raised there,
+than by the manner in which it is raised. In Pennsylvania we are going on
+rapidly, making our state a second England in regard of debt and taxation.
+Our public debt is already 13,000,000 dollars; and before our canals and
+rail-roads shall be completed, it will probably amount to 18 or 20
+millions. The law imposing taxes of 10, 20, 30, 40 and 50 dollars on
+retailers, is not the only just subject of complaint. The _collateral
+inheritance_ tax is equally unjust. The tavern-keepers are besides to be
+taxed from 20 to 50 dollars each. Nor does the matter end here. At the
+next session of the legislature, it will, in all probability, be found
+necessary to lay on additional taxes: and when the principle of unjust
+taxation is once admitted in legislation, it is difficult to say how far
+it will be carried."
+
+Whilst staying at Philadelphia an account of the French revolution
+arrived, and the merchants, there and at New York, were in high spirits,
+thinking that war was inevitable. A war in Europe is always hailed with
+delight in America, as it opens a field for commercial enterprise, and
+gives employment to the shipping, of which at present they are much in
+need.
+
+During the long and ruinous war in Europe, the mercantile and shipping
+interests of the United States advanced with an unexampled degree of
+rapidity. The Americans were then the carriers of nearly all Europe, and
+scarcely any merchandize entered the ports of the belligerent powers, but
+in American bottoms. This unnatural state of prosperity could not last:
+peace was established, and from that era the decline of commerce in the
+United States may be dated. The merchants seem not to have calculated on
+this event's so soon taking place, or to have overrated the increase of
+prosperity and population in their own country, as up to that period, and
+for some years afterwards, there does appear to have been no relaxation of
+ship-building, and little diminution of mercantile speculations. At
+present the ship-owners are realizing little beyond the expenses of their
+vessels, and in many cases the bottoms are actually in debt. The frequent
+failures in the Atlantic cities, of late, are mainly to be attributed to
+unsuccessful ship speculations; and I am myself aware of more than one
+instance, where the freight was so extremely low, as to do little more
+than cover the expenditure of the voyage. On my return to Europe, while
+staying at Marseilles, twelve American vessels arrived in that port within
+the space of two months; and before my departure, nine of these returned
+to the United States with ballast (stones), and I believe only two with
+full cargos.
+
+In a national point of view, the difficulty of obtaining employment for
+the shipping of America may not have been so injurious as at first view
+it appears to be; on the contrary, I am of opinion that it has been
+advantageous. Whilst a profitable trade could with facility be carried on
+with and in Europe, the merchants seldom thought of extending their
+enterprises to any other parts of the world; but since the decline of that
+trade, communications have been opened with the East Indies, Africa, all
+the ports of the Mediterranean, and voyages to the Pacific, and to the
+Austral regions, are now of common occurrence. The museums in the Atlantic
+cities bear ample testimony to the enterprising character of the American
+merchants, which by their means are filled with all the curious and
+interesting productions of the East. This has encouraged a taste for
+scientific studies, and for travelling; which must ultimately tend to
+raise the nation to a degree of respectability little inferior to the
+oldest European state.
+
+FOOTNOTES:
+
+[23] An Irish viceroy lately paid his physician by conferring on him a
+baronetcy, and a pension of two hundred pounds a year, of the public
+money.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XI.
+
+
+Having sojourned for more than three weeks at Philadelphia, I departed for
+New York. The impressions made on my mind during that time were highly
+favourable to the Philadelphians and their city. It is the handsomest city
+in the Union; and the inhabitants, in sociability and politeness, have
+much the advantage of any other body of people with whom I came in
+contact.
+
+The steamer takes you up the Delaware river to Bordentown, in New Jersey,
+twenty-four miles from Philadelphia. The country at either side is in a
+high state of cultivation. It is interspersed with handsome country seats,
+and on the whole presents a most charming prospect. There is scarcely a
+single point passed up the windings of the Delaware, but presents a new
+and pleasing variety of landscape--luxuriant foliage--gently swelling
+hills, and fertile lawns; which last having been lately mown, were covered
+with a rich green sward most pleasing to the eye. The banks of the river
+at Bordentown are high, and the town, as seen from the water, has a pretty
+effect. Here a stage took us across New Jersey to Amboy. This is not a
+large town, nor can it ever be of much importance, being situated too near
+the cities of New York and Philadelphia. At Amboy we again took the
+steam-boat up the bay, and after a delightful sail of thirty miles,
+through scenery the most beautiful and magnificent, we arrived at New
+York.
+
+When I was at New York about fifteen months before, I was informed that
+the working classes were being organized into regular bodies, similar to
+the "union of trades" in England, for the purpose of retaining all
+political power in their own hands. This organization has taken place at
+the suggestion of Frances Wright, of whom I shall again have occasion to
+speak presently, and has succeeded to an astonishing extent. There are
+three or four different bodies of the "workies," as they call themselves
+familiarly, which vary somewhat from each other in their principles, and
+go different lengths in their attacks on the present institutions of
+society. There are those of them called "agrarians," who contend that
+there should be a law passed to prohibit individuals holding beyond a
+certain quantity of ground; and that at given intervals of time there
+should be an equal division of property throughout the land. This is the
+most ultra, and least numerous class; the absurdity of whose doctrines
+must ultimately destroy them as a body. Various handbills and placards may
+be seen posted about the city, calling meetings of these unions. Some of
+those handbills are of a most extraordinary character indeed. I shall
+here insert a copy of one, which I took off a wall, and have now in my
+possession. It may serve to illustrate the character of those clubs.
+
+THE CAUSE OF THE POOR.
+
+The Mechanics and other working men of the city of New York, and
+of _these_ such and such only as live by their own useful
+industry, who wish to retain all political power in their own
+hands;
+
+WHO ARE IN FAVOUR OF                 AND WHO ARE OPPOSED TO
+
+A just compensation for labour,      Banks and Bankers,
+
+Abolishing imprisonment for debt,    Auctions and Auctioneers,
+
+An efficient lien law,               Monopolies and
+
+A general system of education;       Monopolists of all descriptions,
+  including food, clothing
+  and instruction, equal for all,    Brokers,
+  at the public expense, _without
+  separation of children from_       Lawyers, and
+  _parents,_
+                                     Rich men for office, and to all
+Exemption from sale by execution,      those, either rich or poor,
+  of mechanics' tools and              who favour them,
+  implements sufficiently
+  extensive to enable them to        Exemption of Property from
+  carry on business:                   Taxation:
+
+
+Are invited to assemble at the Wooster-street Military Hall, on
+Thursday evening next, 16th Sept., at eight o'clock, to select by
+Ballot, from among the persons proposed on the 6th Instant,
+Candidates for Governor, Lieutenant-Governor, Senator, and a New
+Committee of Fifty, and to propose Candidates for Register, for
+Members of Congress, and for Assembly.
+
+By order of the Committee of Fifty.
+
+JOHN R. SOPER, _Chairman_. JOHN TUTHILL, _Secretary_.
+
+So far for the "Workies;" and now for Miss Wright. If I understand this
+lady's principles correctly, they are strictly Epicurean. She contends,
+that mankind have nothing whatever to do with any but this tangible
+world;--that the sole and only legitimate pursuit of man, is terrestrial
+happiness;--that looking forward to an ideal state of existence, diverts
+his attention from the pleasures of this life--destroys all real sympathy
+towards his fellow-creatures, and renders him callous to their sufferings.
+However different the _theories_ of other systems may be, she contends
+that the _practice_ of the world, in all ages and generations, shews that
+this is the _effect_ of their inculcation. These are alarming doctrines;
+and when this lady made her _debut_ in public, the journals contended that
+their absurdity was too gross to be of any injury to society, and that in
+a few months, if she continued lecturing, it would be to empty benches.
+
+The editor of "The New York Courier and Enquirer" and she have been in
+constant enmity, and have never failed denouncing each other when
+opportunity offered. Miss Wright sailed from New York for France, where
+she still remains, in the month of July, 1830; and previous to her
+departure delivered an address, on which "the New York Enquirer" makes the
+following observations:--
+
+"The parting address of Miss Wright at the Bowery Theatre, on Wednesday
+evening, was a singular _melange_ of politics and impiety--eloquence and
+irreligion--bold invective, and electioneering slang. The theatre was very
+much crowded, probably three thousand persons being present; and what was
+the most surprising circumstance of the whole, is the fact, that about
+_one half of the audience were females--respectable females_.
+
+"When Fanny first made her appearance in this city as a lecturer on the
+'new order of things,' she was very little visited by respectable females.
+At her first lecture in the Park Theatre, about half a dozen appeared; but
+these soon left the house. From that period till the present, we had not
+heard her speak in public; but her doctrines, and opinions, and
+philosophy, appear to have made much greater progress in the city than we
+ever dreamt of. Her fervid eloquence--her fine action--her _soprano-toned_
+voice--her bold and daring attacks upon all the present systems of
+society--and particularly upon priests, politicians, bankers, and
+aristocrats as she calls them, have raised a party around her of
+considerable magnitude, and of much fervour and enthusiasm."
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+"The present state of things in this city is, to say the least of it,
+very singular. A bold and eloquent woman lays siege to the very
+foundations of society--inflames and excites the public mind--declaims
+with vehemence against every thing religious and orderly, and directs the
+whole of her movements to accomplish the election of a ticket next fall,
+under the title of the 'working-man's ticket.'[24] She avows that her
+object is a thorough and radical reform and change in every relation of
+life--even the dearest and most sacred. Father, mother, husband, wife,
+son, and daughter, in all their delicate and endearing relationships, are
+to be swept away equally with clergymen, churches, banks, parties, and
+benevolent societies. Hundreds and hundreds of respectable families, by
+frequenting her lectures, give countenance and currency to these startling
+principles and doctrines. Nearly the whole newspaper press of the city
+maintain a death-like silence, while the great Red Harlot of Infidelity is
+madly and triumphantly stalking over the city, under the mantle of
+'working-men,' and making _rapid progress_ in her work of ruin. If a
+solitary newspaper raise a word in favour of public virtue and private
+morals, in defence of the rights, liberties, and property of the
+community, it is denounced with open bitterness by some, and secretly
+stabbed at by them who wish to pass for good citizens. Miss Wright says
+she leaves the city soon. This is a mere _ruse_ to call her followers
+around her. The effect of her lectures is already boasted of by her
+followers. 'Two years ago,' say they,--'_twenty persons_ could scarcely be
+found in New York who would openly avow infidelity--now we have _twenty
+thousand_.--Is not that something?'
+
+"We say it is something--something that will make the whole city think."
+
+On the day of my departure for Europe, is was announced to the merchants
+of New York, that the West India ports were opened to American vessels.
+
+This is a heavy blow to the interests of the British colonies; and it does
+not appear that even Great Britain _herself_ has received any equivalent
+for inflicting so serious an injury on a portion of the empire by no means
+unimportant. The Canadians and Nova Scotians found a market for their
+surplus produce in the West Indies, for which they took in return the
+productions of these islands--thus a reciprocal advantage was derived to
+the sister colonies. But now, from the proximity of the West Indies to the
+Atlantic cities of the United States, American produce will be poured into
+these markets, for which, in return, little else than specie will be
+brought back to the ports of the Republic.
+
+It may be said, that an equivalent has been obtained by the removal of
+restrictions hitherto laid on British shipping. This I deny is any thing
+like an equivalent, as the trade with America is carried on almost
+exclusively in American bottoms. I particularly noted at New Orleans,
+Baltimore, Philadelphia, and New York, the paucity of British vessels in
+those ports; and ascertained that it was the practice among American
+merchants, who it must be observed are nearly all extensive ship-owners,
+to withhold cargos, even at some inconvenience, from foreign vessels, and
+await the arrival of those of their own country. I do not positively
+assert that the ships of _any other_ nation are preferred to those of
+England; but, as far as my personal observations on that point have gone,
+I am strongly inclined to think that such is the fact.
+
+The mercantile and shipping interests of Great Britain must continue to
+decline, if the government suffers itself continually to be cajoled into
+measures of this nature, and effects treaties the advantages of which
+appear to be all on one side, and in lieu of its concessions receives no
+just equivalent; unless a little empty praise for "liberal policy" and
+"generosity," can be so termed. I am well aware that it may have been of
+some small advantage to the West Indies to be enabled to obtain their
+supplies from the United States; but with reference to the policy of the
+measure, I speak only of the empire at large. Nearly all the Canadians
+with whom I conversed, freely acknowledged that they have not shaken off
+the yoke of England, only because they enjoyed some advantages by their
+connexion with her: but as these are diminished, the ties become loosened,
+and at length will be found too weak to hold them any longer. Disputes
+have already arisen between the people and the government relative to
+church lands, which appropriations they contend are unjust and dishonest.
+
+No doubt the question of tariff duties on the raw material imported into
+England, is one of great delicacy as connected with the manufacturing
+interests of the country; yet it does appear to me, that a small duty
+might without injury be imposed on American cottons _imported in American
+bottoms_. This would afford considerable encouragement to the shipping of
+Great Britain and her colonies, and could by no means be injurious to the
+manufacturing interests. The cottons of the Levant have been latterly
+increasing in quantity, and a measure of this nature would be likely to
+promote their further and rapid increase; which is desirable, as it would
+leave us less dependent on America, than we now are, for the raw material.
+The shipping of America is not held by the cotton-growing states; and
+although the nationality of the southerns is no doubt great, yet their
+love of self-interest is much greater, and would always preponderate in
+their choice of vessels. It would be even better, if found necessary, to
+make some arrangement in the shape of draw-back, than that a nation which
+has imposed a duty on our manufactured goods, almost amounting to a
+prohibition, should reap so much advantage from our system of "liberal and
+generous" policy. I shall conclude these _rambling_ sketches by
+observing, that there are two things eminently remarkable in America: the
+one is, that every American from the highest to the lowest, thinks the
+Republican form of government _the best;_ and the other, that the
+seditious and rebellious of all countries become there the most peaceable
+and contented citizens.
+
+We sailed from New York on the 1st of October, 1830. The monotony of a sea
+voyage, with unscientific people, is tiresome beyond description. The
+journal of a single day is the history of a month. You rise in the
+morning, and having performed the necessary ablutions, mount on
+deck,--"Well Captain, how does she head?"--"South-east by east"--(our
+course is east by south).--"Bad, bad, Captain--two points off." You then
+promenade the quarter-deck, until the black steward arrests your
+progress--grins in your face, and announces breakfast. Down you go, and
+fall foul of ham, beef, _pommes de terre frites_, jonny-cakes, and _cafe
+sans lait;_ and generally, in despite of bad cooking and occasional
+lee-lurches, contrive to eat an enormous meal. Breakfast being despatched,
+you again go on deck--promenade--gaze on the clouds--then read a little,
+if perchance you have books with you--lean over the gunwale, watching the
+waves and the motion of the vessel; but the eternal water, clouds, and
+sky--sky, clouds, and water, produce a listlessness that nothing can
+overcome. In the Atlantic, a ship in sight is an object which arouses the
+attention of all on board--to speak one is an aera, and furnishes to the
+captain and mates a subject for the day's conversation. Thus situated, an
+occasional spell of squally weather is by no means uninteresting:--the
+lowering aspect of the sky--the foaming surges, which come rolling on,
+threatening to overwhelm the tall ship, and bury her in the fathomless
+abyss of the ocean--the laugh of the gallant tars, when a sea sweeps the
+deck and drenches them to the skin--all these incidents, united, rather
+amuse the voyager, and tend to dispel the inanity with which he is
+afflicted. During these periods, I have been for hours watching the
+motions of the "stormy petrel" (_procellaria pelagica_), called by
+sailors, "mother Carey's chickens." These birds are seldom seen in calm
+weather, but appear to follow the gale, and when it blows most heavily
+they are seen in greatest numbers. The colour is brown and white; the size
+about that of the swallow, whose motions oh the wing they resemble. They
+skim over the surface of the roughest sea, gliding up and down the
+undulations with astonishing swiftness. When they observe their prey, they
+descend flutteringly, and place the feet and the tips of the wings on the
+surface of the water. In this position I have seen many of them rest for
+five or six seconds, until they had completed the capture. The petrel is
+to be seen in all parts of the Atlantic, no matter how distant from land;
+and the oldest seaman with whom I have conversed on the subject, never saw
+one of them rest. Humboldt says, that in the Northern Deserta, the
+petrels hide in rabbit burrows.
+
+A few days' sail brought us into the "Gulf stream," the influence of which
+is felt as high as the 43 deg. north latitude. We saw a considerable
+quantity of _fucus natans_, or gulf weed, but it generally was so far from
+the vessel, that I could not contrive to procure a sprig. Mr. Luccock, in
+his Notes on Brazil, says, that "if a nodule of this weed, taken fresh from
+the water at night, is hung up in a small cabin, it emits phosphorescent
+light enough to render objects visible." He describes the leaves of this
+plant as springing from the joints of the branches, oblong, indented at
+the edges, about an inch and a half long, and a quarter of an inch broad.
+Humboldt's description is somewhat different: he calls it the "vine-leaved
+fucus;" says, "the leaves are circular, of a _tender_ green, and indented
+at the edges, stem brown, and three inches long."--What I saw of this
+weed rather agrees with that described by Humboldt--the leaves were
+shaped like the vine leaf, and of a rusty-green colour. That portion of
+the Atlantic between the 22d and 34th parallels of latitude, and 26th and
+58th meridians of longitude, is generally covered with fuci, and is termed
+by the Portuguese, _mar do sargasso_, or grassy sea. It was supposed by
+many, from the large quantities of this weed seen in the Gulf stream, that
+it grew on the Florida rocks, and by the influence and extension of the
+current, was detached and carried into this part of the Atlantic. However,
+this position is not tenable, as a single branch of fucus has never been
+found on the Florida reef. Humboldt, and other scientific men, are of
+opinion that this weed vegetates at the bottom of the ocean--that being
+detached from its root, it rises to the surface; and that such portion of
+it as is found in the stream, is drawn thither by the sweeping of the
+current along the edge of the weedy sea. Moreover, the fuci that are
+found in the northern extremity of the Florida stream are generally
+decayed, while those which are seen in the southern extremity appear quite
+fresh--this difference would not exist if they emanated from the Gulf.
+
+We stood to the north of the Azores, with rather unfavourable winds, and
+at length came between the coast of Africa and Cape St. Vincent. Here we
+had a dead calm for four entire days. The sky was perfectly cloudless, and
+the surface of the ocean was like oil. Not being able to do better, we got
+out the boat and went turtle fishing, or rather catching, in company with
+a very fine shark, which thought proper to attend us during our excursion.
+In such weather the turtles come to the surface of the water to sleep and
+enjoy the solar heat, and if you can approach without waking them, they
+fall an easy prey, being rendered incapable of resistance by their shelly
+armour. We took six. Attached to the breast of one was a remora, or
+"sucking fish." The length of this animal is from six to eight
+inches--colour blackish--body, scaleless and oily--head rather flat, on
+the back of which is the sucker, which consists of a narrow oval-shaped
+margin with several transverse projections, and ten curved rays extending
+towards the centre, but not meeting. The Indians of Jamaica and Cuba
+employed this fish as falconers do hawks. In calm weather, they carried
+out those which they had kept and fed for the purpose, in their canoes,
+and when they had got to a sufficient distance, attached the remora to the
+head of the canoe by a strong line of considerable length. When the remora
+perceives a fish, which he can do at a considerable distance, he darts
+away with astonishing rapidity, and fastens upon it. The Indian lets go
+the line, to which a buoy is attached to mark the course the remora has
+taken, and follows in his canoe until he thinks the game is exhausted; he
+then draws it gradually in, the remora still adhering to his prey. Oviedo
+says, "I have known a turtle caught by this method, of a bulk and weight
+which no single man could support."
+
+For four days we were anxiously watching for some indications of a breeze,
+but were so frequently deceived with "cat's paws," and the occasional
+slight flickering of the dog vane, that we sank into listless resignation.
+At length our canvass filled, and we soon came within sight of the Straits
+of Gibraltar. On our left was the coast of Spain, with its vineyards and
+white villages; and on our right lay the sterile hills of Barbary.
+Opposite Cape Trafalgar is Cape Spartel, a bold promontory, on the west
+side of which is a range of basaltic pillars. The entrance to the
+Mediterranean by the Straits, when the wind is unfavourable, is extremely
+difficult; but to pass out is almost impossible, the current continually
+setting in through the centre of the passage. Hence, onwards, the sail was
+extremely pleasant, being within sight of the Spanish coast, and the
+Islands of Yvica, Majorca, and Minorca, successively, until we reached
+the Gulf of Lyons. When the northerly wind blows, which, in Provence, is
+termed the _mistral_, the waves roll against the coast of Provence, and
+the recoil produces that ugly chopping sea for which this gulf is
+renowned. In the Mediterranean, even in the calmest weather, a light
+pleasant breeze springs up after sunset; this and the cloudless sky, and
+unobscured brilliancy of the stars, are attractions sufficient to allure
+the most somnolent and unromantic mortal to remain on deck.
+
+The molusca, or oceanic insect, which emits a phosphorescent light,
+appeared here in vast quantities, which induced me to try experiments. I
+took a piece of black crape, and having folded it several times, poured
+some sea water taken fresh in a bucket, upon it: the water in the bucket,
+when agitated by the hand, gave out sparkling light. When the crape was
+thoroughly saturated with water, I took it to a dark part of the cabin,
+when it seemed to be studded with small sparkling stars; but more of the
+animals I could not then discern. Next day I put some water in a glass
+tumbler, and having exposed it to a strong solar light, with the help of a
+magnifying glass was enabled distinctly to discern the moluscae. When
+magnified, they appeared about the size of a pin's head, of a yellowish
+brown colour, rather oval-shaped, and having tentaculae. The medusa is a
+genus of molusca; and I think M. le Seur told me he reckons forty-three or
+forty-four species of that genus.
+
+We crossed the Gulf of Lyons, and came within the road of Marseilles,
+where we were taken charge of by a pilot. When we reached the mouth of the
+basin, a boat came alongside of us, and a man handed up a piece of wood,
+and said, "Mettez sur cela le nom du capitaine et du batiment;"--we were
+to perform quarantine. Whoever has performed quarantine can commiserate
+our condition. No one can quit the quarantine ground, or rather the space
+in the harbour alloted to vessels performing quarantine. If it be
+necessary to send any papers from the ship on shore, they are taken with a
+forceps and plunged into vinegar. If the sails of any other vessel touch
+those of one in quarantine, she too must undergo several days' probation.
+Our time was five days; but as we had clean bills of health, and had lost
+none of our crew on the passage, we were allowed to count the day of our
+entering and the day of our going out of quarantine. The usual ceremonies
+being performed, I again stepped on European ground, and felt myself at
+home.
+
+FOOTNOTES:
+
+[24] The "Education ticket," that of the "workies," carried every thing
+before it in New York and the adjoining states, at the election of
+members of congress, &c.
+
+
+
+
+APPENDIX.
+
+
+
+NEW CENSUS OF THE UNITED STATES.
+
+An abstract of a "careful revision of the enumeration of the United States
+for the years 1790, 1800, 1810, 1820, and 1830," compiled at the
+Department of State, agreeably to law; and an ABSTRACT from the Aggregate
+Returns of the several Marshals of the United States of the "Fifth
+Census."
+
+STATES.             1790.     1800.     1810.     1820.      1830.
+Maine              96,540   151,719   228,705   298,335    399,463
+New Hampshire     141,899   183,762   214,360   244,161    269,533
+Massachusetts     378,717   423,243   472,040   523,287    610,014
+Rhode Island       69,110    69,122    77,031    83,059     97,210
+Connecticut       258,141   231,002   262,042   275,202    297,011
+Vermont            85,416   154,465   217,713   233,764    280,679
+New York          340,120   586,756   959,049 1,372,812  1,913,508
+New Jersey        184,139   211,949   245,555   277,575    320,778
+Pennsylvania      434,373   602,365   810,091 1,049,458  1,347,672
+Delaware           59,096    64,273    72,674    72,749     76,739
+Maryland          319,728   341,548   380,546   407,350    446,913
+D. Columbia           --     14,093    24,023    33,039     39,588
+Virginia          748,308   880,200   974,622 1,065,379  1,211,266
+N. Carolina       393,751   478,103   555,500   638,829    738,470
+S. Carolina       249,073   345,591   415,115   502,741    581,458
+Georgia            82,548   162,101   252,433   340,987    516,504
+Kentucky           73,077   220,955   406,511   564,317    688,844
+Tennessee          35,791   105,602   231,727   422,813    684,822
+Ohio                  --     45,365   230,760   581,434    937,679
+Indiana               --      4,875    24,520   147,178    341,582
+Mississippi           --      8,850    40,352    75,448    136,806
+Illinois              --        --     12,233    55,211    157,575
+Louisiana             --        --     76,556   153,407    215,791
+Missouri              --        --     20,845    66,586    140,084
+Alabama               --        --        --    127,902    309,206
+Michigan              --        --      4,762     8,896     31,123
+Arkansas              --        --        --     14,273     30,383
+Florida               --        --        --        --      34,725
+                3,929,827 5,305,925 7,289,314 9,638,131 12,856,437
+
+
+INCREASE FROM 1820 TO 1830.
+
+
+                   Per Cent.                       Per Cent.
+Maine                 33,398         S. Carolina      15,657
+N. Hampshire          10,391         Georgia          51,472
+Massachusetts         16,575         Kentucky         22,066
+Rhode Island          17,157         Tennessee        62,044
+Connecticut            8,151         Ohio             61,998
+Vermont               19,005         Indiana         132,087
+New York              39,386         Mississippi      81,032
+New Jersey            15,564         Illinois        185,406
+Pennsylvania          25,416         Louisiana        40,665
+Delaware               5,487         Missouri        110,380
+Maryland               9,712         Alabama         141,574
+D. Columbia           20,639         Michigan        250,001
+Virginia              13,069         Arkansas        113,273
+N. Carolina           15,592         Florida              --
+          Average                       32,392
+
+
+
+
+EXTRACTS
+
+FROM
+
+"THE CHEROKEE PHOENIX,"
+
+OF JULY 31, 1830.
+
+_The following is part of a Letter written by a Creek Chief, from the
+Arkansas territory._
+
+"The son of General M'Intosh, (an Indian chief), with the M'Intosh party,
+held a treaty with the government, and were induced, by promises, to
+remove to Arkansas. They were promised 'a home for ever,' if they would
+select one, and that bounds should be marked off to them. This has not
+been done. They were assured that they should draw a proportionate part of
+the annuity due to the Creek nation every year. They have planted corn
+three seasons--yet they have never drawn one cent of any annuity due to
+them! Why is this? They were promised blankets, guns, ammunition, traps,
+kettles, and a _wheelwright_. They have drawn some few of each class of
+articles, and only a few--they have no wheelwright. They were poor;--but
+above this, they were promised pay for the improvements abandoned by them
+in the old nation. This they have not received. They were further assured
+that they should receive, upon their arrival on Arkansas, _thirty dollars_
+per head for each emigrant. This they have not received. But the acting
+sub-agent, in the spring 1829, finding their wants very pressing (indeed
+many of them were in a famishing condition), gave to each one his due
+bill, in the name of the agent, for the amount of bounty due them, and
+took their receipts for the amount, as vouchers for the agent, to settle
+his account by with the government. The consequence was, that the Indians,
+not regarding paper as of any real value, would go to the traders, and
+sell the due bills at what they could get for them. And the traders having
+no confidence in the promises of the government through its agents, united
+with the hazard of delay at all events, would not give the real value of
+the amount promised by the due bills. If the Indians attempted to trade
+them to the whites for cattle, or any thing which they stood in need of,
+the consequence was, that they were compelled to make a discount upon
+them. Not finding them worth as many dollars as they purported to be for,
+they were willing to let them go upon any terms, rather than keep them in
+their possession. The due bills amounted, in all, to about _twenty-one
+thousand dollars_, which due bills are now in the hands of the original
+holders, or the purchasers, but not lifted by the agent according to his
+promise. (Is not the government bound by the acts of its agent or
+attorney?). It is but fair to estimate the loss of the Indians at one
+third of the sum above stated, and this loss owing entirely to the
+government, by its agent's withholding the fulfilment of its contract with
+the M'Intosh party.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+"Mr. Joseph Brearly was left here by his father, the agent, in charge of
+his affairs, and being apprised of a party of _emigrants_ about to arrive,
+was making preparations to obtain the provisions necessary to subsist them
+for one year; and for that purpose had advertised to supply six thousand
+bushels of corn. The day came for closing the contract, when Colonel
+Arbuckle, commanding Cantonment Gibson, handed in a bid, in the name of
+the Creek nation, to furnish the amount of corn required at _one dollar
+and twelve cents_ per bushel; the next lowest bid to his was _one dollar
+and fifty cents_; so that Colonel Arbuckle saved the government 2,280
+dollars.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+"Mr. Blake, the sub-agent sent by Colonel Crowell, had superseded Mr.
+Brearly, and was engaged in giving his receipts for the corn delivered
+under the contract. A speculation was presented; and as the poor Indians
+were to be the victims of rapacity, why, it was all very well. The
+aforesaid Major Love, to secure the speculation, repaired to St. Louis,
+with _letters of credit_ from Mr. Blake, the sub-agent of Colonel Crowell,
+and purchased several thousand dollars' worth of merchandize, and so soon
+as he could reach the Creek agency, commenced purchasing the corn receipts
+issued by the sub-agent. It is reasonable to suppose that the goods were
+sold, on an average, at two hundred per centum above cost and carriage;
+and by this means the Indians would get about one third of the value of
+their corn at the contract price!--they offered to let the receipts go at
+twenty-five per cent. discount, if they could only obtain cash for them.
+
+"The United States owe the Creeks money--they have paid them none in three
+years--the money has been appropriated by congress. It is withheld by the
+agents. The Indians are destitute of almost every comfort for the want of
+what is due to them. If it is longer withheld from them, it can only be
+so, upon the grounds that the poor Indian, who is unable to compel the
+United States to a compliance with solemn treaties, must linger out a
+miserable degraded existence, while those who have power to extend to him
+the measure of justice, will be left in the _full_ possession of _all_ the
+_complacency_ arising from the solemn _assurance_, that they are either
+the _stupid_ or _guilty_ authors of his degradation and misery.
+
+"TAH-LOHN-TUS-KY.
+
+"P.S. The Creeks have sent frequent memorials, praying relief from the War
+Department; also a delegation, but can obtain no relief!!"
+
+
+
+
+_Extract from a Communication made by a Cherokee Chief._
+
+
+"A company of whites was in this neighbourhood, with forged notes and
+false accounts to a very considerable amount upon the Indians, and
+forcibly drove off the property of several families. This, Sir, is the
+cause of our misery, poverty, and degradation, for which we have been so
+much reproached. This is what makes us _poor devils_. If we fail to make
+good crops, some of the white neighbours must starve, for many of them are
+dependent upon us for support, either by fair or foul means. Some of the
+poor creatures are now travelling among us, almost starved, begging for
+something to eat--they are actually worse than Indians. If they can't get
+by begging, they steal. To make us clear of these evils, and make us happy
+for ever, the unabating avarice of some of the Georgians, by their
+repeated acts of cruelty, point us to homes in the west--but as long as we
+have a pony or a hog to spare them, we will never go, and not then. This
+land is heaven's gift to us--it is the birthright of our fathers: as long
+as these mountains lift their lofty summits to heaven, and these beautiful
+rivers roll their tides to the mighty ocean, so long we will remain. May
+heaven pity and save our distressed country!
+
+"VALLEY TOWNS."
+
+
+The following Extracts may serve to show the state of the country to which
+the Indians are compelled to emigrate:
+
+[FROM THE KENTUCKY INTELLIGENCER.]
+
+_Extract of a Letter, dated Prairie du Chien._
+
+"January 15, 1830.
+
+"There is a prospect, I think, that the Indian department in this part of
+the country will soon require efficient officers. There is little doubt
+that there will be a general and sanguinary war among the Indians in the
+spring. The outrages of the Sauks and Foxes, can be endured no longer.
+Within a short time, they have cut off the head of a young Munomonee
+Indian, at the mouth of Winconscin river--killed a Winnebago woman and
+boy, of the family of Dekaree, and a Sioux called Dixon. The whole Sioux
+nation have made arrangements for a general and simultaneous attack on the
+Foxes; the Winnebagoes, and probably the Munomonees will join them."
+
+
+"Little Rock, Ark. Ter. Feb. 5.
+
+"_Murderous Battle._--A gentleman who arrived here yesterday, direct from
+the Western Creek agency, informs us that a war party of Osages returned
+just before he left the agency, from a successful expedition against the
+Pawnee Indians. He was informed by one of the chiefs, that the party
+seized a Pawnee village, high up on the Arkansas, and had surrounded it
+before the inmates were apprised of their approach. At first the Pawnees
+showed a disposition to resist; but finding themselves greatly outnumbered
+by their assailants, soon sallied forth from their village, and took
+refuge on the margin of a lake, where they again made a stand. Here they
+were again hemmed in by the Osages, who throwing away their guns, fell
+upon them with their knives and tomahawks, and did not cease the work of
+butchery as long as any remained to resist them. Not one escaped. All were
+slain, save a few who were taken prisoners, and who are perhaps destined
+to suffer a more cruel death than those who were butchered on the spot.
+Our informant did not learn what number of Pawnees were killed, but
+understood that the Osages brought in sixty or seventy scalps, besides
+several prisoners.
+
+"We also learn, that the Osages are so much elated with this victory, that
+another war party were preparing to go on an expedition against some
+Choctaws who reside on Red river, with whom they have been at variance for
+some time past."
+
+
+_Extract of a Letter from an Officer of the Army, dated Prairie du Chien._
+
+[FROM THE NEW YORK COM. ADVERTIZER.]
+
+"May 6, 1830.
+
+"_Indian Hostilities._--When coming down the Mississippi, on the raft of
+timber, a war party of Sioux came to me and landed on the raft, but did
+not offer any violence. They were seventy strong, and well armed; and when
+they arrived at the Prairie, they were joined by thirty Menominees, and
+then proceeded down the river in pursuit of the Sauks and Foxes, who lay
+below. This morning they all returned, and reported that they had killed
+ten of the Foxes and two squaws. I saw all the scalps and other trophies
+which they had taken; such as canoes, tomahawks, knives, guns, war clubs,
+spears, &c. A paddle was raised by them in the air, on which was strung
+the head of a squaw and the scalps. They killed the head chief of the Fox
+nation, and took from them all the treaties which the nation had made
+since 1815. I saw them, and read such as I wished. One Sioux killed, and
+three wounded, was all the loss of the northern party. The Winnebagoes
+have joined with the Sioux and Menominees, and the Potawatomies have
+joined with the Sauks and Foxes. We shall have a great battle in a day or
+two."
+
+
+
+***END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK A RAMBLE OF SIX THOUSAND MILES
+THROUGH THE UNITED STATES OF AMERICA***
+
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+The Project Gutenberg eBook, A Ramble of Six Thousand Miles through the
+United States of America, by S. A. Ferrall
+
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+
+
+
+Title: A Ramble of Six Thousand Miles through the United States of America
+
+Author: S. A. Ferrall
+
+Release Date: March 26, 2004  [eBook #11725]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: iso-8859-1
+
+
+***START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK A RAMBLE OF SIX THOUSAND MILES
+THROUGH THE UNITED STATES OF AMERICA***
+
+
+E-text prepared by Project Gutenberg Distributed Proofreaders
+
+
+
+A RAMBLE OF SIX THOUSAND MILES THROUGH THE UNITED STATES OF AMERICA
+
+BY S. A. FERRALL, ESQ.
+
+LONDON, 1832
+
+
+
+
+
+
+[Illustration: _Fac-simile of the first two Paragraphs of the Leading
+Article in the "CHEROKEE PHOENIX" of July 31, 1830_]
+
+
+
+PREFACE.
+
+
+The few sketches contained in this small volume were not originally
+intended for publication--they were written solely for the amusement of my
+immediate acquaintances, and were forwarded to Europe in the shape of
+letters. Subsequent considerations have induced me to publish them; and if
+they be found to contain remarks on some subjects, which other travellers
+in America have passed over unnoticed, the end that I have in view will be
+fully answered.
+
+Although I remained in the seaboard cities sufficiently long to have
+collected much information; yet knowing that the statistics of those
+places had been so often and so ably set before the public, I felt no
+inclination to trouble my friends with their repetition.
+
+In Europe, the name of America is so associated with the idea of
+emigration, that to announce an intention of crossing the Atlantic, rouses
+the interfering propensity of friends and acquaintances, and produces such
+a torrent of queries and remonstrances, as will require a considerable
+share of moral courage to listen to and resist. All are on the tiptoe of
+expectation, to hear what the inducements can possibly be for travelling
+in America. America!! every one exclaims--what can you possibly see there?
+A country like America--little better than a mere forest--the inhabitants
+notoriously far behind Europeans in refinement--filled with wild Indians,
+rattle-snakes, bears, and backwoodsmen; ferocious hogs and ugly negros;
+and every other species of noxious and terrific animal!
+
+Without, however, any definite scientific object, or indeed any motive
+much more important than a love of novelty, I determined on visiting
+America; within whose wide extent all the elements of society, civilized
+and uncivilized, were to be found--where the great city could be traced to
+the infant town--where villages dwindle into scattered farms--and these to
+the log-house of the solitary backwoodsman, and the temporary wig-wam of
+the wandering Pawnee.
+
+I have refrained nearly altogether from touching on the domestic habits
+and manners of the Americans, because they have been treated of by
+Captain Hall and others; and as the Americans always allowed me to act as
+I thought proper, and even to laugh at such of their habits as I thought
+singular, I am by no means inclined to take exception to them.
+
+
+
+
+CONTENTS.
+
+
+CHAPTER I.
+
+Sail for New York in an American vessel--the crew--ostentation of the
+Captain--a heavy gale--soundings--icebergs--bay of New York--Negros and
+Negresses--White Ladies--climate--fires--vagrant pigs--Frances
+Wright--Match between an Indian canoe and a skiff
+
+
+CHAPTER II.
+
+Depart for Albany--the Hudson--Albany--Cohoe's Falls--Rome--the Little
+Falls--forest of charred trees--"stilly night" in a swamp--fire
+fly--Rochester--Falls of Gennessee--Sam. Patch--an eccentric
+character--Falls of Niagara--the Tuscarora Indians--Buffalo--Lake
+Erie--the Iroquois--the Wyandots--death of Seneca John, and its
+consequences--ague fever--Wyandot prairie--the Delawares' mode of dealing
+with the Indians--the transporting of Negros to Canada
+
+
+CHAPTER III.
+
+Arrive at Marion--divorces--woodlands--Columbus--land offices--population,
+&c. Shaking Quakers--kidnapping free Negros--Cincinnati--the farmers of
+Ohio--a corn-husking frolic--qualifications necessary to Senators,
+Legislators, and Electors--a camp-meeting--militia officers'
+muster--Presbyterian parsons--price of land, cattle, &c.--fever and ague
+
+
+CHAPTER IV.
+
+Set out for New Harmony--the roads--a backwoodsman--the
+journey--peaches--casualties--travelling--New Harmony--M. Le
+Seur--barter--excursion down the Wabash--the co-operative
+community--Robert Owen
+
+
+CHAPTER V.
+
+Depart for St. Louis--Albion--the late Messrs. Birkbeck and
+Flowers--Hardgrove's prairie--the roads--the Grand prairie--prairie
+wolf--mode of training dogs--Elliott's inn--inhabitants of
+Illinois--ablutions--coal--soil and produce--the American Bottom--St
+Louis--monopolies--Fur companies--incivility of a certain Major--trapping
+expedition--trade with Santa Fé--lead mines--Carondalot--Jefferson
+barracks--discipline--visit to a slave-holder--the Ioway hostages--Indian
+investigation--character of the Indians.
+
+
+CHAPTER VI
+
+Leave St. Louis--Indian mounds--remains of ancient fortifications--burial
+caverns--mummies--Flint's description of a mummy--the languages of
+America--town making--the Indian summer--population, &c. of Illinois--the
+prairie hen--the Turkey buzzard--settlers--forest in autumn--a gouging
+scrape--the country--extent and population of Indiana--hogs--a settler in
+bottom land--the sugar maple--roads--a baptism
+
+
+CHAPTER VII
+
+Set out for New Orleans--Louisville--Mississippi steam-boats--the
+Ohio--the Mississippi--sugar plantations--the valley of the
+Mississippi--New Orleans--Quadroons--slavery--a Methodist slavite--runaway
+Negros--incendiary fires at Orleans--liberty of the press--laws passed by
+the legislature of Louisiana--Miss Wright--public schools--yellow
+fever--the Texas
+
+
+CHAPTER VIII.
+
+Depart for Louisville--tellandsea, or Spanish moss--Natchez--the yellow
+fever--cotton plantations--Mississippi wood-cutters--freshets--planters,
+sawyers, and snags--steam-boat blown up--the Chickesaws--hunting in
+Tennessee--electioneering--vote by ballot--trade on the Ohio and
+Mississippi rivers--the People--the President's veto--finances--government
+banks--Kentucky--the Kentuckians--court-houses--an election--universal
+suffrage--an Albino--Diluvian reliqua
+
+
+CHAPTER IX.
+
+The political condition of the Indians--Missionaries--the letter of
+Red-jacket--the speech of the wandering Pawnee chief
+
+
+CHAPTER X.
+
+Kenhawa salt-works--coal--a
+Radical--rattle-snakes--Baltimore--Philadelphia--taxation--shipping
+
+
+CHAPTER XI.
+
+"The Workies"--Miss Wright--the opening of the West India ports to
+American vessels--voyage homeward--the stormy petrel--Gulf weed--the
+remora--the molusca--quarantine
+
+
+APPENDIX
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER I.
+
+
+Following the plan I had laid down for myself, I sought and found a goodly
+Yankee merchantman, bound for and belonging to the city of New York. Our
+vessel was manned with a real _American_ crew, that is, a crew, of which
+scarcely two men are of the same nation--which conveys a tolerably correct
+notion of the population of the United States. The crew consisted of one
+Russian, one German, one Italian, one Scotchman, one Newfoundlander, one
+Irishman, two Englishmen, two New Englanders, and two Negros--the cook and
+steward. The seamen of America are better paid, and better protected,
+than those of any other nation; but work harder, and must understand their
+duty well. Indeed if we had not had a good crew, our ship, being old,
+might have suffered severely.
+
+In selecting this ship, in addition to accommodations, I only took into
+account her build; and so far was not disappointed, for when she _could_
+carry sail, she scudded along in gallant style; but with ships as with
+horses, the more they _have done_, the less they have _to do_.
+
+I had a strong impression on my mind that a person travelling in America
+as a professed tourist, would be unable to form a correct estimate of the
+real character and condition of the people; for, from their great
+nationality, they would be likely to show him the best side of every
+thing. Of this kind of ostentation I very soon had a slight proof. Our
+ship left port in gallant trim, but had no sooner gained the open sea,
+than all hands were employed in stowing away the finery, and covering the
+rigging with mats--even the very cabin doors were taken off the hinges,
+and brass knobs and other ornaments which appeared to have been fixtures,
+were unshipped and deposited below, where they remained until our approach
+to New York, when the finery was again displayed, and all was placed once
+more _in statu quo_.
+
+For the first twelve days we had rather pleasant weather, and nothing
+remarkable occurred, unless a swallow coming on board completely exhausted
+with flying, fatigue made it so tame that it suffered itself to be
+caressed; it however popped into the coop, and the ducks literally gobbled
+it up alive. The ducks were, same day, suffered to roam about the decks,
+and the pigs fell foul of one of them, and eat the breast off it. Passing
+the cabouse, I heard the negro steward soliloquising, and on looking in,
+perceived him cutting a hen's throat with the most heartfelt satisfaction,
+as he grinned and exclaimed, by way of answer to its screams, "Poor
+feller! I guess I wouldn't hurt you for de world;" I could not help
+thinking with Leibnitz, that most sapient of philosophers, that this is
+the best of all possible worlds.
+
+On the thirteenth day we encountered a heavy gale, which continued to
+increase for four successive days. During this period we were unable to
+carry more canvass than was barely necessary to render the vessel
+manageable. A heavy gale, for the first time, is rather interesting than
+otherwise: the novelty of the sea's appearance--the anxiety of the crew
+and officers--the promptitude with which commands are given and
+executed--and the excitement produced by the other incidental occurrences,
+tend to make even a storm, when encountered in open sea, by no means
+destitute of pleasing interest. During this gale, the sailors appeared to
+be more than ordinarily anxious only upon one occasion, and then only for
+a minute--the circumstance was not calculated to create alarm in the mind
+of a person totally ignorant of nautical affairs, but being somewhat of a
+sailor, I understood the danger tolerably well. The helm was struck by a
+sea, and strained at the bolts; from the concussion occasioned by the
+blow, it was apprehended for a moment that it had been carried away.
+Without a helm, in such weather, much was to be feared; for her timbers
+being old, she could hardly meet the shock of an ocean wave upon her
+broadside without suffering serious injury. The helmsman was knocked
+down--the captain and mate jumped aft, to ascertain the extent of the
+damage; while the sailors scowled along the deck, as they laid their
+shoulders to the weather side of the ship--all was anxiety for the
+instant. At length the mate cried, "helm all right," and the crew pulled
+away as usual. At the close of the fourth day the storm subsided, and we
+approached the banks of Newfoundland.
+
+It is generally supposed that the colour of the sea is a sure indication
+of the presence or absence of soundings; that is, that there are
+soundings where the water is green, and that there are none where the
+water is blue. The former is, I believe, true in every instance; but the
+latter is certainly not so, as the first soundings we got here, were in
+water as blue as indigo, depth fifty odd fathoms.
+
+We were thirty days crossing these tiresome banks; during which time we
+were befogged, and becalmed, and annoyed with all sorts of disagreeable
+weather. The fogs or mists were frequently so dense, that it was
+impossible to see more than thirty yards from the vessel. This course is
+not that usually taken by ships bound for the United States, as they
+generally cross the Atlantic at much lower latitudes, but our captain
+"calculated" on escaping calms, and avoiding the influence of the Gulf
+stream, and thus making a quicker passage; he was, however, mistaken, as a
+packet ship that left Liverpool four days after, arrived at New York
+sixteen days before us.
+
+We found the thermometer of incalculable service, both for ascertaining
+when we got into the stream, and for disclosing our dangerous proximity to
+icebergs. That we had approached near icebergs we discovered one evening
+to be the case by the mercury falling, suddenly, below 40°, in foggy
+weather. We notwithstanding held on our course, and fortunately escaped
+accident. Many vessels which depart from port with gallant crews, and are
+never heard of more, are lost, I am convinced, by fatal collision with
+these floating islands. From the beginning of spring to the latter end of
+summer, masses of brash ice are occasionally encountered in these
+latitudes.
+
+Towards the evening of the fiftieth day we entered the bay of New York:
+the bay is really beautiful, and at this season (summer) perhaps appeared
+to the greatest advantage. The numerous islands with which it is
+interspersed, were covered to the water's edge with foliage and verdure,
+and here and there studded with handsome villas. The city appeared to be
+literally surrounded by a thick grove of masts, from which floated the
+flags of many nations--the scene, thus gradually unfolding itself to the
+eyes of one who had been for so long a time immured within a vessel, was
+really fascinating.
+
+While at New York, I staid at the "Pearl-street Boarding-house," and
+experienced from Messrs. Haskell and Perry, the proprietors, the most
+polite attention. Most Europeans are astonished at the rapidity with which
+the Americans despatch their meals; but I, having admitted the
+proposition, that there was "nothing new under the sun," had long
+previously ceased to be _astonished_ at any thing. On the first day of my
+dining at the table d'hôte, one of those gentlemen told me, when we sat
+down to dinner, that most of the persons at table were men of business,
+who were in the habit of eating much quicker than he knew I was accustomed
+to, and requested that that might not in the slightest interfere with my
+habits, but that I should entirely suit my own comfort and convenience.
+After that preface, I think I should have been most unreasonable to fall
+into a passion with the New Yorkers, because they _bolted_ instead of
+masticating.
+
+New York is altogether a trading place, and different from any thing of
+the same magnitude in Europe: scarcely a single street is exclusively
+filled with private residences;--in a mercantile point of view, it is the
+Liverpool of the United States.
+
+The negros and mulattos constitute a considerable portion of the
+population. It is impossible to imagine the extreme ugliness of some of
+the sooty gentry; a decent ourang-outang might, without presumption, vie
+with many of these people, even of the _fair sex_, and an impartial judge
+should certainly decide that the said ourang-outang was the handsomer
+animal. Many of them are wealthy, and dress remarkably well. The females,
+when their shins and misshapen feet are concealed by long gowns, appear
+to have good figures. A few days after my arrival, walking down "Broadway"
+(the principal street) I was struck with the figure of a fashionably
+dressed woman, who was sauntering before me. After passing, I turned
+round, when--O angels and ministers of ugliness!--I beheld a face, as
+black as soot--a mouth that reached from ear to ear--a nose, like nothing
+human--and lips a full inch in diameter! On the following morning, whilst
+dressing at my bed-room window, I heard a squeaking sort of voice warbling
+forth, "Love was once a little Boy," and "I'd be a Butterfly." The strange
+_melody_ and unusual intonations induced me to look out, when, to my
+astonishment, I found that the _fair_ songstress was a most
+hideous-looking negress! Such are the scenes that constantly present
+themselves here, and remind a European that he is in a new region.
+
+The white ladies dress fashionably, generally _à la Françoise_; have
+straight figures, and with the help of a little cotton, judiciously
+disposed, and sometimes, the smallest possible portion of rouge, contrive
+to look rather interesting; in general, they are lamentably deficient in
+_tournure_ and _en-bon-point_. The hands and feet of the greatest belle,
+are _pas mignon_, and would be termed plebeian by the Anglo-Normans--the
+aristocracy of England. Yet I have seen many girls extremely handsome
+indeed, having a delicate bloom and fair skin; but this does not endure
+long, as the variable nature of the climate--the sudden and violent
+transitions of temperature which occur on this continent, destroy, in a
+few years, the complexion of the finest woman. When she arrives at the age
+of thirty, her skin is shrivelled and discoloured; she is thin, and has
+all the indications of premature old age. The women of England retain
+their beauty at least ten years longer than those of America.
+
+The inhabitants of that part of New York nearest the shipping, are
+extremely sallow and unhealthy looking, and many have a most cadaverous
+aspect. Malaria certainly exists here in some degree. A man will tell you
+that the city is perfectly healthy, whilst his own appearance most
+unquestionably indicates disease. I speak now of the quays and adjacent
+streets; and the cause is very apparent. The wharfs are faced with wood,
+and the retiring of the tide exposes a rotten vegetable substance to the
+action of an almost tropical sun, which, added to the filth that is
+invariably found in the neighbourhood of shipping, is quite sufficient to
+produce the degree of unhealthiness that exists. On going up the town, the
+appearance of the inhabitants gradually improves, and approaching the
+suburbs, the difference is striking,--in this district I have seen persons
+as stout and healthy looking as any in England or Ireland.
+
+On the night of my arrival, a fire broke out, by which several extensive
+warehouses were entirely consumed. There is nothing more remarkable here
+than the frequent occurrence of this calamity, except the excellent
+arrangements that are made for arresting its progress. The engines,
+apparatus, and _corps de pompiers_, are admirably maintained, and the
+promptitude and regularity with which they arrive at the scene of
+devastation truly astonishing: indeed, were this not the case, the city
+must very soon be destroyed; for notwithstanding all their exertions,
+every conflagration makes it minus several houses, and few nights pass
+without bringing a misfortune of this nature.
+
+There are several theatres, churches, and other public buildings,
+dispersed throughout the city. The City Hall, which stands near the upper
+end of a small enclosure, called the Park, is considered the handsomest
+building in the United States. It was finished in 1812, and cost half a
+million dollars.
+
+The police regulations appear not to be so severe as they ought to be, for
+droves of hogs are permitted to roam about the streets, to the terror of
+fine ladies, and the great annoyance of all pedestrians.
+
+New York was settled by the Dutch in 1615, and called by them New
+Amsterdam. In 1634, it was conquered by the English,--retaken by the Dutch
+in 1673, and restored in 1674. Its present population is estimated at
+213,000.
+
+Having heard that the celebrated Frances Wright, authoress of "A Few Days
+in Athens," was publicly preaching and promulgating her doctrines in the
+city, I determined on paying the "Hall of Science" a visit, in which
+establishment she usually lectured. The address she delivered on the
+evening I attended had been previously delivered on the fourth of July, in
+the city of Philadelphia; but, at the request of a numerous party of
+"Epicureans," she was induced to repeat it. The hall might contain perhaps
+ten or twelve hundred persons, and on this occasion it was filled to
+excess, by a well-dressed audience of both sexes.
+
+The person of Frances Wright is tall and commanding--her features are
+rather masculine, and the melancholy cast which her countenance ordinarily
+assumes gives it rather a harsh appearance--her dark chestnut hair hangs
+in long graceful curls about her neck; and when delivering her lectures,
+her appearance is romantic and unique.
+
+She is a speaker of great eloquence and ability, both as to the matter of
+her orations, and the manner of their delivery. The first sentence she
+utters rivets your attention; and, almost unconsciously, your sympathies
+are excited, and you are carried onward by the reasonings and the
+eloquence of this disciple of the Gardens. The impression made on the
+audience assembled on that occasion was really wonderful. Once or twice,
+when I could withdraw my attention from the speaker, I regarded the
+countenances of those around me, and certainly never witnessed any thing
+more striking. The high-wrought interest depicted in their faces, added to
+the breathless silence that reigned throughout the building, made the
+spectacle the most imposing I ever beheld. She was the Cumaean Sibyl
+delivering oracles and labouring under the inspiration of the God of
+Day.--This address was chiefly of a political character, and she took care
+to flatter the prejudices of the Americans, by occasionally recurring to
+the advantages their country possessed over European states--namely, the
+absence of country gentlemen, and of a church establishment; for to the
+absence of these the Americans attribute a large portion of the very great
+degree of comfort they enjoy.
+
+Near Hoboken, about three miles up North river, at the opposite side to
+New York, a match took place between a boat rowed by two watermen, and a
+canoe paddled by two Indians. The boat was long and narrow, similar in
+form to those that ply on the Thames. The canoe was of the lightest
+possible construction, being composed of thin hickory ribs covered with
+bark. In calm weather, the Indians propel these vessels through the water
+with astonishing velocity; but when the wind is high, and the water much
+disturbed, their progress is greatly impeded. It so happened on this day
+that the water was rough, and consequently unfavourable to the Aborigines.
+At the appointed signal the competitors started. For a short distance the
+Indians kept up with their rivals, but the long heavy pull of the oar soon
+enabled the boatmen to leave them at a distance. The Indians, true to
+their character, seeing the contest hopeless, after the first turn, no
+longer contended for victory; they paddled deliberately back to the
+starting place, stepped out, and carried their canoe on shore. The
+superiority of the oar over the paddle was in this contest fully
+demonstrated.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER II.
+
+
+Having determined on quitting "the London of the States," as my friends
+the Yankees call New York, I had bag and baggage conveyed on board a
+steamer bound for Albany. The arrangements and accommodations on board
+this boat were superb, and surpassed any thing of the kind I ever met with
+in Europe, on the same scale; and the groups of well-dressed passengers
+fully indicated the general prosperity of the country.
+
+The distance between New York and Albany is about 165 miles. The scenery
+on the Hudson is said to be the most beautiful of any in America, and I
+believe cannot be surpassed in any country. Many of the beauties of rich
+European scenery are to be found along the banks of that noble river. In
+the highlands, about fifty miles from New York, is West Point, on which
+stands a strong fortress, containing an arsenal, a military-school, and a
+garrison. It is romantically situated among lofty crags and mountains,
+which rise above the level of the water from 1100 to 1500 feet. There are
+many handsome country seats and villages between West Point and Hudson,
+where the river is more than a mile wide.
+
+After a passage of about sixteen or seventeen hours, we arrived at Albany.
+The charge for passage, including dinner and tea, was only three dollars;
+and the day following the cost was reduced, through the spirit of
+opposition, to one dollar.
+
+Albany is the legislative capital of New York. It is a handsome city, and
+one of the oldest in the Union. Most of the houses are built of wood,
+which, when tastefully painted (not often the case) have rather a pleasing
+appearance. The situation of this city is advantageous, both from the
+direct communication which it enjoys with the Atlantic, by means of sloops
+and schooners, and the large tract of back country which it commands. A
+trade with Canada is established by means of the Erie and Hudson canal.
+The capitol, and other public buildings, are large and handsome, and being
+constructed of either brick or stone, give the city a respectable
+appearance.
+
+Albany, in 1614, was first settled by the Dutch, and was by them called
+Orange. On its passing into the hands of the English, in 1664, its present
+name was given to it, in honour of the Duke of York. It was chartered in
+1686.
+
+From Albany I proceeded along the canal, by West Troy and Junction, and
+near the latter place we came to Cohoe's Falls, on the Mohawk. The river
+here is about 250 yards wide, which rushing over a jagged and uneven bed
+of rocks, produces a very picturesque effect. The canal runs nearly
+parallel with this river from Junction to Utica, crossing it twice, at an
+interval of seven miles, over aqueducts nearly fifty rods in length,
+constructed of solid beams of timber. The country is very beautiful, and
+for the most part well cultivated. The soil possesses every variety of
+good and bad. The farms along the canal are valuable, land being generally
+worth from fifty to a hundred dollars per acre.
+
+Above Schenectady, a very ancient town, the bed of the canal gave way,
+which of course obliged us to come to a dead halt. I hired, for myself and
+two others, a family waggon (dignified here with the appellation of
+_carriage_) to take us beyond the break, in expectation of being able to
+get a boat thence onwards, but unfortunately all the upward-bound boats
+had proceeded. We were, therefore, obliged to wait until next morning. My
+fellow travellers having light luggage, got themselves and it into a hut
+at the other side of the lock; but I, having heavy baggage, which it was
+impossible to carry across, was compelled to remain on the banks, between
+the canal and the Mohawk, all night. On the river there were several
+canoes, with fishermen spearing by torch-light; while on the banks the
+boatmen and boys, Mulattos and whites, were occupied in gambling. They had
+tables, candles, dice, and cards. With these, and with a _quantum
+sufficit_ of spirits, they contrived to while away the time until
+day-break; of course interlarding their conversation with a reasonable
+quantity of oaths and imprecations. The breach being repaired early in the
+morning, the boats came up, and we proceeded to Utica.
+
+Seven miles above Utica is seated Rome, a small and dirty town, bearing no
+possible resemblance to the "Eternal City," even in its more modern
+condition, as the residence of the "Triple Prince;" but, on the contrary,
+having, if one could judge from the habitations, every appearance of
+squalid poverty. Fifteen miles further on, we passed the Little Falls. It
+was night when we came to them, but it being moonlight, we had an
+opportunity of seeing them to advantage. The crags are here
+stupendous--irregular and massive piles of rocks, from which spring the
+lofty pine and cedar, are heaped in frightful disorder on each other, and
+give the scene a terrifically grand appearance.
+
+From Rome to Syracuse, a distance of forty-six miles, the canal is cut
+through a swampy forest, a great portion of which is composed of dead
+trees. One of the most dismal scenes imaginable is a forest of charred
+trees, which is occasionally to be met with in this country, especially in
+the route by which I was travelling. It is caused by the woods being
+fired, by accident or otherwise. The aspect of these blasted monuments of
+ruined vegetation is strange and peculiar; and the air of desertion and
+desolation which pervades their neighbourhood, reminds one of the stories
+that are told of the Upas valley of Java, for here too not a bird is to
+be seen. The smell arising from this swamp in the night, was so bad as to
+oblige us to shut all the windows and doors of the boat, which, added to
+the bellowing and croaking of the bull frogs--the harsh and incessant
+noise of the grasshoppers, and the melancholy cry of the whip-poor-will,
+formed a combination not of the most agreeable nature. Yet, in defiance of
+all this, we were induced occasionally to brave the terrors of the night,
+in order to admire that beautiful insect the fire-fly, or as it is called
+by the natives, "lightning bug." They emit a greenish phosphorescent
+light, and are seen at this season in every part of the country. The woods
+here were full of them, and seemed literally to be studded with small
+stars, which emitted a bright flickering light.
+
+After you pass Syracuse, the country begins to improve; but still it is
+low and marshy, and for the most part unhealthy, as the appearance of the
+people clearly indicates. In this country, as in every other, the canals
+are generally cut through comparatively low lands, and the low lands here,
+with few exceptions, are all swampy; however, a great deal of the
+unhealthiness which pervades this district, arises from want of attention.
+A large portion of the inhabitants are Low Dutch, who appear never to be
+in their proper element, unless when settled down in the midst of a swamp.
+They allow rotten timber to accumulate, and stagnant pools to remain about
+their houses, and from these there arises an effluvium which is most
+unpleasant in warm weather, which, however, they do not seem to perceive.
+
+We entered Rochester, through an aqueduct thirty rods in length, built of
+stone, across the Genessee river. Rochester is the handsomest town on this
+line. Some of the houses here are tastefully decorated. All the windows
+have Venetian blinds, and generally there are one or two covered balconies
+attached to the front of each house. Before the doors there are small
+_parterres_, planted with rose-trees, and other fragrant shrubs. About
+half a mile from the town are the Falls of Genessee. The water glides over
+an even bed of limestone rock, ninety-six feet above the level of the
+river below. There is a beautiful regularity in this fall, but its extreme
+uniformity divests it of picturesque effect. Here the celebrated diver,
+Sam. Patch, subsequently met his fate in diving off this precipice. He had
+performed similar feats at the Falls of Niagara, without sustaining any
+injury. He was not killed by the fall; but is supposed to have fainted
+when midway from, his leap, as his arms were observed to relax, and his
+legs to open, before he reached the water.
+
+On my journey I met with an Englishman, a Mr. W----. He dressed _à la Mungo
+Park_, wearing a jacket and trowsers of jean, and a straw hat. He was a
+great pedestrian; had travelled through most of the southern States, and
+was now on his tour through this part of the country. He was a gentleman
+about fifty,--silent and retiring in his habits. Enamoured of the
+orange-trees of Georgia, he intended returning there or to Carolina, and
+ending his days. We agreed to visit the Falls of Niagara together, and
+accordingly quitted the boat at Tonawanta. When we had dined, and had
+deposited our luggage in the safe keeping of the Niagara hotel-keeper, my
+companion shouldered his vigne stick, and to one end of which he appended
+a small bundle, containing a change of linen, &c., and I put on my
+shooting coat of many pockets, and shouldered my gun. Thus equipped, we
+commenced our journey to the Great Falls. The distance from Tonawanta to
+the village of the Falls, now called Manchester, is about eleven miles.
+The way lies through a forest, in which there are but a few scattered
+habitations. A great part of the road runs close to the river Niagara; and
+the occasional glimpses of this broad sheet of water, which are obtained
+through the rich foliage of the forest, added to the refreshing breeze
+that approached us through the openings, rendered our pedestrian excursion
+extremely delightful.
+
+Towards evening we arrived at the village, and proceeded to reconnoitre,
+in order to fix our position for the night. After having done this
+satisfactorily, we then turned our attention to the all-important
+operation of eating and drinking. While supping, an eccentric-looking
+person passed out through the apartment in which we were. His odd
+appearance excited our curiosity, and we inquired who this
+mysterious-looking gentleman was. We were informed that he was an
+Englishman, and that he had been lodging there for the last six months,
+but that he concealed his real name. He slept in one corner of a large
+barrack room, in which there were of course several other beds. On a small
+table by his bed-side there were a few French and Latin books, and some
+scraps of poetry touching on the tender passion. These, and a German
+flute, which we observed standing against the window, gave us some clue to
+his character. He was a tall, romantic-looking young man, apparently about
+twenty-seven or twenty-eight years of age. His dress was particularly
+shabby. This the landlord told us was from choice, not from necessity, as
+he had two trunks full of clothes nearly new. The reason he gave for
+dressing as he did, was his knowing, he said, that if he dressed well,
+people would be talking to him, which he wished to avoid; but, that by
+dressing as he did, he made sure that no one would ever think of giving
+him any annoyance of that kind. I thought this idea unique: and whether he
+be still at Niagara, or has taken up his abode at the foot of the Rocky
+mountains, I pronounce him to be a Diogenes without a tub. He has read at
+least one page in the natural history of civilized man.
+
+We visited the Falls, at the American side by moonlight. There was then an
+air of grandeur and sublimity in the scene which I shall long remember.
+Yet at this side they are not seen to the greatest advantage. Next morning
+I crossed the Niagara river, below the Falls, into Canada. I did not
+ascend the bank to take the usual route to the Niagara hotel, at which
+place there is a spiral staircase descending 120 feet towards the foot of
+the Falls, but clambered along at the base of the cliffs until I reached
+the point immediately below the stairs. I here rested, and indeed required
+it much, for the day was excessively warm, and I had unfortunately
+encumbered myself with my gun and shot pouch. The Falls are here seen in
+all their grandeur. Two immense volumes of water glide over perpendicular
+precipices upwards of 170 feet in height, and tumble among the crags below
+with a roaring that _we_ distinctly heard on our approach to the village,
+at the distance of five miles up the river: and down the river it can be
+heard at a much greater distance. The Falls are divided by Goat Island
+into two parts. The body of water which falls to the right of the island
+is much greater than that which falls to the left; and the cliffs to the
+right assume the form of a horse-shoe. To the left there is also a
+considerable indentation, caused by a late falling in of the rock; but it
+scarcely appears from the Canadian side. The rushing of the waters over
+such immense precipices--the dashing of the spray, which rises in a white
+cloud at the base of the Falls, and is felt at the distance of a quarter
+of a mile--the many and beautiful rainbows that occasionally
+appear,--united, form a grand and imposing _coup d'oeil_.
+
+The Fall is supposed to have been originally at the table-land near
+Lewiston; and indeed, from the nature of the ground, and its present
+condition below the Falls, no reasonable objection can be entertained to
+that supposition. The upper part of the cliffs is composed of hard
+limestone, and underneath is a bed of schistus. Now this schistus is
+continually worn away by the water's dashing against it. This leaves the
+upper part, or immediate bed of the river, without foundation. When,
+therefore, from extraordinary floods, the pressure of the incumbent fluid
+becomes more than usually great, the rock gives way; and thus, gradually,
+the Falls have receded several miles.
+
+I at length ascended the stairs, and popped my head into the shanty, _sans
+ceremonie_, to the no small amazement of the cunning compounder of
+"cock-tails," and "mint julaps" who presided at the bar. It was clear that
+I had ascended the stairs, but how the deuce I had got down was the
+question. I drank my "brandy sling," and retreated before he had recovered
+from his surprise, and thus I escaped the volley of interrogatories with
+which I should have been most unsparingly assailed. I walked for some
+distance along the Canadian heights, and then crossed the river, where I
+met my friend waiting my return under a clump of scrub oak.
+
+We had previously determined on visiting the Tuscarora village, an Indian
+settlement about eight miles down the river, and not far from Ontario.
+This is a tribe of one of the six nations, the last that was admitted into
+the Confederation. They live in a state of community; and in their
+arrangements for the production and distribution of wealth, approach
+nearer to the Utopean system than any community with which I am
+acquainted. The squaws told us that no Indian there could claim any thing
+but what was contained within his own cabin; that the produce of the land
+was common property, and that they never quarrelled about its division. We
+dined in one of their cabins, on lean mutton and corn bread. The interior
+of their habitations is not conspicuous for cleanliness; nor are they so
+far civilized as to be capable of breaking their word. The people at the
+Niagara village told us, that with the exception of two individuals in
+that community, any Indian could get from them on credit either money or
+goods to whatever amount he required.
+
+I here parted with my fellow traveller, perhaps for ever. He went to
+Lewiston, whence he intended to cross into Canada, and to walk along the
+shores of Ontario; whilst I made the best of my way back through the woods
+to Manchester. I certainly think our landlord had some misgivings
+respecting the fate of my companion. We had both departed together: I
+alone was armed--and I alone returned. However, as I unflinchingly stood
+examination and cross-examination, and sojourned until next morning, his
+fears seemed to be entirely dispelled. Next day I took a long, last look
+at Niagara, and departed for Tonawanta.
+
+At Tonawanta I again took the canal-boat to Buffalo, a considerable town
+on the shores of lake Erie, and at the head of the canal navigation. There
+are several good buildings in this town, and some well-appointed hotels.
+Lake schooners, and steam and canal boats are here in abundance, it being
+an entrepôt for western produce and eastern merchandize. A few straggling
+Indians are to be seen skulking about Buffalo, like dogs in Cairo, the
+victims of the inordinate use of ardent spirits.
+
+From Buffalo I proceeded in a steamer along lake Erie, to Portland in
+Ohio, now called Sandusky City; the distance 240 miles. After about an
+hour's sail, we entirely lost sight of the Canadian shores. The scenery on
+the American side is very fine, particularly from Presqu' Isle onward to
+the head of the lake, or rather from its magnitude, it might be termed an
+inland sea.
+
+On landing at Sandusky, I learned that there were several Indian reserves
+between that place and Columbus, the seat of government. This determined
+me on making a pedestrian tour to that city. Accordingly, having forwarded
+my luggage, and made other necessary arrangements, I commenced my
+pergrinations among the Aborigines.
+
+The woods in the upper part of Ohio, nearest the lake, are tolerably open,
+and occasionally interspersed with sumach and sassafras: the soil
+somewhat sandy. I met with but few Indians, until my arrival at Lower
+Sandusky, on the Sandusky river; here there were several groups returning
+to their reserves, from Canada, where they had been to receive the annual
+presents made them by the British government. In the next county (Seneca)
+there is a reservation of about three miles square, occupied by Senecas,
+Cayugas, and part of the Iroquois or six nations, once a most powerful
+confederation amongst the red men.[1] In Crawford county there is a very
+large reserve belonging to the Huron or Wyandot Indians. These, though
+speaking a dialect of the Iroquois tongue, are more in connexion with the
+Delawares than with the Iroquois. The Wyandots are much esteemed by their
+white neighbours, for probity and good behaviour. They dress very
+tastefully. A handsome chintz shawl tied in the Moorish fashion about the
+head--leggings of blue cloth, reaching half way up the thigh, sewn at the
+outside, leaving a hem of about an inch deep--mocassins, or Indian boots,
+made of deer-skin, to fit the foot close, like a glove--a shirt or tunic
+of white calico--and a hunting shirt, or frock, made of strong
+blue-figured cotton or woollen cloth, with a small fringed cape, and long
+sleeves,--a tomahawk and scalping knife stuck in a broad leather belt.
+Accoutred in this manner, and mounted on a small hardy horse, called here
+an Indian pony, imagine a tall, athletic, brown man, with black hair and
+eyes--the hair generally plaited in front, and sometimes hanging in long
+wavy curls behind--aquiline nose, and fearless aspect, and you have a fair
+idea of the Wyandot and Cayuga Indian. The Senecas and Oneidas whom I met
+with, were not so handsome in general, but as athletic, and about the same
+average height--five feet nine or ten.
+
+The Indians here, as every where else, are governed by their own laws, and
+never have recourse to the whites to settle their disputes. That silent
+unbending spirit, which has always characterized the Indian, has alone
+kept in check the rapacious disposition of the whites. Several attempts
+have been made to induce the Indians to sell their lands, and go beyond
+the Mississippi, but hitherto without effect. The Indian replies to the
+fine speeches and wily language of the whites, "We hold this small bit of
+land, in the vast country of our fathers, by _your_ written talk, and it
+is noted on _our_ wampums--the bones of our fathers lie here, and we
+cannot forsake them. You tell us our great father (the president) is
+powerful, and that his arm is long and strong--we believe it is so; but we
+are in hopes that he will not strike his red children for their lands, and
+that he will leave us this little piece to live upon--the hatchet is long
+buried, let it not be disturbed."
+
+Jackson has lately published a manifesto to all the Indian tribes within
+the limits of the United States, commanding them to sell their reserves;
+and with few exceptions, has been answered in this manner.
+
+A circumstance occurred a few days previous to my arrival, in the Seneca
+reserve, which may serve to illustrate the determined character of the
+Indian. There were three brothers (chiefs) dwelling in this reservation.
+"Seneca John," the eldest brother, was the principal chief of the tribe,
+and a man much esteemed by the white people. He died by poison. The
+chiefs in council, having satisfactorily ascertained that his second
+brother "Red-hand," and a squaw, had poisoned him, decreed that Red-hand
+should be put to death. "Black-snake," the other brother, told the chiefs
+that if Red-hand must die, he himself would kill him, in order to prevent
+feuds arising in the tribe. Accordingly in the evening he repaired to the
+hut of Red-hand, and after having sat in silence for some time, said, "My
+best chiefs say, you have killed my father's son,--they say my brother
+must die." Red-hand merely replied, "They say so;" and continued to smoke.
+After about fifteen minutes further silence, Black-snake said, pointing to
+the setting sun, "When he appears above those trees"--moving his arm round
+to the opposite direction--"I come to kill you." Red-hand nodded his head
+in the short significant style of the Indian, and said "Good." The next
+morning Black-snake came, followed by two chiefs, and having entered the
+hut, first put out the squaw, he then returned and stood before his
+brother, his eyes bent on the ground. Red-hand said calmly, "Has my
+brother come that I may die?"--"It is so," was the reply. "Then,"
+exclaimed Red-hand, grasping his brother's left hand with his own right,
+and dashing the shawl from his head, "Strike sure!" In an instant the
+tomahawk was from the girdle of Black-snake, and buried in the skull of
+the unfortunate man. He received several blows before he fell, uttering
+the exclamation "hugh," each time. The Indians placed him on the grass to
+die, where the backwoodsman who told me the story, saw him after the lapse
+of two hours, and life was not then extinct,--with such tenacity does it
+cling to the body of an Indian. The scalping knife was at length passed
+across his throat, and thus ended the scene.
+
+From Sandusky city, in Huron county, I passed into Sandusky county, and
+from thence through Seneca county. These three counties are entirely
+woodlands, with the exception of a few small prairies which lay eastward
+of my course. The land is generally fertile. Some light sandy soil is
+occasionally to be met with, which produces more quickly than the heavier
+soil, but not so abundantly. I saw in my travels through these counties a
+few persons who were ill of ague-fever, as it is here called. The
+prevalence of this disease is not to be attributed to a general
+unhealthiness of the climate, but can at all times be referred to
+localities.
+
+I next entered Crawford county, and crossed the Wyandot prairie, about
+seven miles in length, to Upper Sandusky. This was the first of those
+extensive meadows I had seen, and I was much pleased with its
+appearance--although this prairie is comparatively but small, yet its
+beauty cannot be surpassed; and the groves, and clusters of trees, _iles
+de bois_, with which it is interspersed, make it much resemble a beautiful
+domain.
+
+Attached to the Wyandot reserve (nine miles by sixteen) is that of the
+Delawares (three miles square). On reaching Little Sandusky--Kahama's
+curse on the town baptizers of America!--there are often five or six
+places named alike in one state: upper and lower, little and big, great
+and small--and invariably the same names that are given to towns in one
+State, are to be found in every other. Then their vile plagiarisms of
+European names causes a Babelonish confusion of ideas, enough to disturb
+the equanimity of a "grisly saint;" and, with all humility, I disclaim
+having any pretensions to that character. I have frequently heard a
+long-legged, sallow-looking backwoodsman talk of having come lately from
+Paris, or Mecca, when instead of meaning the capital of _La grande
+nation_, or the city of "the holy prophet," he spoke of some town
+containing a few hundred inhabitants, situated in the backwoods of
+Kentucky, or amidst the gloomy forests of Indiana. The Americans too speak
+in prospective, when they talk of great places; no doubt "calculating"
+that, one day, all the mighty productions of the old world will be
+surpassed by their ingenuity and perseverance.
+
+I reached Little Sandusky about one o'clock in the day, and there learned
+that there was a treaty being holden with the Delawares--accordingly I
+repaired to the council ground. On a mat, under the shade of seven large
+elm trees, which in more prosperous times had waved over the war-like
+ancestors of this unfortunate people, were seated three old sachems, the
+principal of the tribe. The oldest appeared to be nearly eighty years of
+age, the next about seventy, and the last about fifty. On a chair to the
+right of the Indians was seated a young "half-breed" chief, the son of one
+of the sachems by a white squaw; and on their left, seated on another
+chair, a Delaware dressed in the costume of the whites. This young man was
+in the pay of the States, and acted as interpreter--he interpreting into
+and from the Delaware language, and a gentleman of the mission (a Captain
+Walker) into and from the Wyandot. At a table opposite the Indians were
+seated the commissioners.
+
+The Lenni Lenapé, or Delawares, as they were called by the English, from
+the circumstance of their holding their great "Council-fire" on the banks
+of the Delaware river, were once the most powerful of the several tribes
+that spoke the Delaware tongue, and possessed an immense tract of country
+east of the Alleghany mountains. This unfortunate people had been driven
+from place to place, until at last they were obliged to accept of an
+asylum from the Wyandot, whom they call their uncle; and now are forced to
+sell this, and go beyond the Mississippi. To a reflecting mind, the scene
+was touching beyond description. Here was the sad remnant of a great
+nation, who having been forced back from the original country of their
+fathers, by successive acts of rapacity, are now compelled to enter into
+a compact which obliges them, half civilized as they are, to return to the
+forest. The case is this,--the white people, or rather Jackson and the
+southerns, say, that the Indians "retard improvement"--precisely in the
+same sense that a brigand, when he robs a traveller, might say, that the
+traveller retarded improvement--that is, retarded _his_ improvement,
+inasmuch as he had in his pocket, what would improve the condition of the
+brigand. The Indians have cultivated farms, and valuable tracts of land,
+and no doubt it will improve the condition of the whites, to get
+possession of those farms and rich lands, for _one tenth of their saleable
+value_. The profits that have accrued to the United States from the
+systematic plunder of the Indians, are immense, and a great portion of the
+national debt has been liquidated by this dishonest means.[2]
+
+The reserve of the Delawares contained nine square miles, or 5760 acres.
+For this it was agreed at the treaty, that they should be paid 6000
+dollars, and the value of the improvements, which I conceived to be a fair
+bargain. I was not then aware of the practice pursued by the government,
+of making deductions, under various pretences, from the purchase-money,
+until the unfortunate Indian is left scarcely anything in lieu of his
+lands, and says, that "the justice of the white man is not like the
+justice of the red man," and that he cannot understand the honesty of his
+Christian brother. The following extract, taken from the New York
+American, will give some insight into the mode of dealing with the
+Indians.
+
+"_The last of the Ottowas_.--Maumee Bay, Ohio, Sept. 3, 1831.--Mr. James
+B. Gardiner has concluded a very important treaty at Maumee Bay, in
+Michigan, for a cession of all the lands owned by the Ottowa Indians in
+Ohio, about 50,000 acres. It was attended with more labour and greater
+difficulties than any other treaty made in this state: it was the last
+foothold which that savage, warlike, and hostile tribe held in their
+ancient dominion. The conditions of this treaty are very similar to those
+treaties of Lewistown and Wapaghkenetta, _with this exception_, that the
+surplus avails of their lands, _after deducting seventy cents per acre to
+indemnify the government_, are to be appropriated for paying the debts of
+their nation, which amount to about 20,000 dollars." [Query, what are
+those debts?--could they be the amount of _presents_ made them on former
+occasions?] "The balance, _if any_, accrues to the tribe. Seventy
+thousand acres of land are granted to them west of the Mississippi.[3] The
+Ottowas are the most depredating, drunken, and ferocious in Ohio. The
+reservations ceded by them are very valuable, and those on the Miami of
+the lake embrace some of the best mill privileges in the State."
+
+The Delawares were too few (being but fifty-one in number) to contend the
+matter, and therefore accepted of the proposed terms. At the conclusion of
+the conference, the Commissioners told them that they should have a barrel
+of flour, with the beef that had been killed for the occasion, which was
+received with "Yo-ha!--Yo-ha!" They then said, laughing, "that they hoped
+their father would allow them a little milk," meaning whisky, which was
+accordingly granted. They drank of this modern Lethé and forgot for a time
+their misfortunes.
+
+On the Osage fork of the Merrimack river, there are two settlements of the
+Delawares, to the neighbourhood of which these Indians intend to remove.
+
+Near the Delaware reserve, I fell in with a young Indian, apparently about
+twenty years of age, and we journeyed together for several miles through
+the forest. He spoke English fluently, and conformed as far as his taste
+would permit him, to the habits of the whites. His dress consisted of a
+blue frock coat, blue cloth leggings, moccasins, a shawl tied about the
+head, and a red sash round his waste. In conversation, I asked him if he
+were not a Cayuga--: "No," says he, "an Oneida," placing both his hands on
+his breast--"a _clear_ Oneida." I could not help smiling at his national
+pride;--yet this is man: in every country and condition he is proud of his
+descent, and loves the race to which he belongs. This Oneida was a widow's
+son. He had sixteen acres of cleared land, which, with occasional
+assistance, he cultivated himself. When the produce was sold, he divided
+the proceeds with his mother, and then set out, and travelled until his
+funds were exhausted. He had just then returned from a tour to New York
+and Philadelphia, and had visited almost every city in the Union. As
+Guedeldk--that was the Oneida's name--and I were rambling along, we met a
+negro who was journeying in great haste--he stopped to inquire if we had
+seen that day, or the day previous, any nigger-woman going towards the
+lake. I had passed the day before two waggon loads of negros, which were
+being transported, by the state, to Canada. A local law prohibits the
+settlement of people of colour within the state of Ohio, which was now put
+in force, although it had remained dormant for many years.
+
+There was much hardship in the case of this poor fellow. He had left his
+family at Cincinnati, and had gone to work on the canal some eighteen or
+twenty miles distant. He had been absent about a week; and on his return
+he found his house empty, and was informed that his wife and children had
+been seized, and transported to Canada. The enforcement of this law has
+been since abandoned; and I must say, although the law itself is at
+variance with the Constitution of the United States, which is paramount to
+all other laws, that its abandonment is due entirely to the good feeling
+of the people of Ohio, who exclaimed loudly against the cruelty of the
+measure.
+
+FOOTNOTES:
+
+[1] De Witt Clinton, speaking of the Iroquois, or five nations, says,
+"Their exterior relations, general interests, and national affairs, were
+conducted and superintended by a great council, assembled annually in
+Onondaga, the central canton, composed of the chiefs of each republic;
+and eighty sachems were frequently convened at this national assembly. It
+took cognizance of the great questions of war and peace; of the affairs
+of the tributary nations, and their negotiations with the French and
+English colonies. All their proceedings were conducted with great
+deliberation, and were distinguished for order, decorum, and solemnity.
+In eloquence, in dignity, and in all the characteristics of profound
+policy, they surpassed the assembly of feudal barons, and perhaps were
+not inferior to the great Amphictyonic Council of Greece."
+
+[2]
+                                              Dollars.
+
+Amount of lands sold up to the year 1824     44,229,837
+
+173,176,606 acres unsold, estimated at one
+dollar per acre. The Congress price was
+then two dollars, but was subsequently
+reduced to a dollar and a quarter, and
+is now 75 cents.                            173,176,606
+                                            -----------
+                                            217,406,443
+
+Deduct value of annuities, expenses of
+surveying, &c. &c., being the amount of
+purchase-money paid for same                  4,243,632
+                                            -----------
+
+Profit arising to the United States from
+purchases of land from the Indians          213,162,811
+                                            -----------
+Allowing 480 cents, to the pound sterling, the gross
+          profit is £44,408,918. 19_s_. 2_d_.
+
+[3] There are lands west of the Mississippi, which would be dear at ten
+cents per hundred acres.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER III.
+
+
+From Little Sandusky, I passed through Marion, in Marion county. This
+town, like most others in Ohio, is advancing rapidly, and has at present
+several good brick buildings. The clap-boarded frame houses, which compose
+the great mass of habitations in the towns throughout the western country,
+in general have a neat appearance. I here saw gazetted three divorces, all
+of which had been granted on the applications of the wives. One, on the
+ground of the husband's absenting himself for one year: another, on
+account of a blow having been given: and the third for general neglect.
+There are few instances of a woman's being refused a divorce in the
+western country, as dislike is very generally--and very
+rationally--supposed to constitute a sufficient reason for granting the
+ladies their freedom.
+
+I crossed Delaware county into Franklin county, where Columbus, the
+capital of the state, is situated. The roads from the lake to this city,
+with few exceptions, passed through woodlands, and the country is but
+thinly settled. Beech, oak, elm, hickory, walnut, white-oak, ash, &c.
+compose the bulk of the forest trees; and in the bottom lands, enormous
+sycamores are to be seen stretching their white arms almost to the very
+clouds. The land is of various denominations, but in general may be termed
+fertile.
+
+Columbus, the capital of Ohio, is seated on the Scioto river, which is
+navigable for keel and flat boats, and small craft, almost to its source;
+and by means of a portage of about four miles, to Sandusky river, which
+flows into lake Erie, a convenient communication is established between
+the lakes, and the great western waters. The town is well laid out. The
+streets are wide; and the court-house, town-hall, and public offices, are
+built of brick. There are some good taverns here, and the tables d'hôtes
+are well and abundantly supplied.
+
+There are land offices in every county seat, in which maps and plans of
+the county are kept. On these, the disposable tracts of country are
+distinguished from those which have been disposed of. The purchaser pays
+one fourth of the purchase money, for which he gets a receipt,--this
+constitutes his title, until, on paying the residue, he receives a regular
+title deed. He may however pay the full amount at once, and receive a
+discount of, I believe, eight per cent. A township comprises thirty-six
+square miles (twenty three thousand and forty acres) in sections of six
+hundred and forty acres each, which are subdivided, to accommodate
+purchasers, into quarter sections, or lots of a hundred and sixty acres.
+The sixteenth section is not sold, but reserved for the support of the
+poor, for education, and other public uses. There is no provision made in
+this, or any other state, for the ministers of religion, which is found to
+be highly beneficial to the interests of practical Christianity. The
+congress price of land has lately been reduced from a dollar and a quarter
+per acre, to seventy-five cents.
+
+Ohio averages 184 miles in extent, from north to south, and 220 miles from
+east to west. Area, 40,000 square miles, or 25,600,000 acres. The
+population in 1790, was 3000; in 1800, 45,365; in 1810, 230,760; and in
+1820, 581,434. White males, 300,609; white females, 275,955; free people
+of colour, 4723; militia in 1821, 83,247. The last census, taken in 1830,
+makes the population 937,679.
+
+Having no more Indian reserves to visit, I took the stage, and rumbled
+over corduroys, republicans, stumps, and ruts, until my ribs were
+literally sore, through London, Xenia, and Lebanon, to Cincinnati.
+
+At Lebanon there is a large community of the shaking Quakers. They have
+establishments also in Mason county, and at Covington, in Kentucky: their
+tenets are strictly Scriptural. They contend, that confessing their sins
+to one another, is necessary to a state of perfection; that the church of
+Christ ought to have all things in common; that none of the members of
+this church ought to cohabit, but be literally virgins; and that to dance
+and be merry is their duty, which part of their doctrines they take from
+the thirty-first chapter of Jeremiah.
+
+Their ceremonies are as follows:--The men sit on the left hand, squatting
+on the floor, with their knees up, and their hands clasped round them.
+Opposite, in the same posture, sit the women, whose appearance is most
+cadaverous and sepulchral, dressed in the Quaker costume. After sitting
+for some time in this hatching position, they all rise and sing a canting
+sort of hymn, during which the women keep time by elevating themselves on
+their toes. After the singing has ceased, a discourse is delivered by one
+of the elders; which being ended, the men pull off their coats and
+waistcoats. All being prepared, one of the brethren steps forward to the
+centre of the room, and in a loud voice, gives out a tune, beating time
+with his foot, and singing _lal lal la, lal lal la_, &c., being joined by
+the whole group, all jumping as high as possible, clapping their hands,
+and at intervals twirling round,--but making rather ungraceful
+_pirouettes_: this exercise they continue until they are completely
+exhausted. In their ceremonials they much resemble the howling Dervishes
+of the Moslems, whom they far surpass in fanaticism.
+
+Within about ten miles of Cincinnati we took up an old doctor, who was
+going to that city for the purpose of procuring a warrant against one of
+his neighbours, who, he had reason to believe, was concerned in the
+kidnapping of a free negro the night before. This is by no means an
+uncommon occurrence in the free states bordering the great rivers. The
+unfortunate black man, when captured, is hurried down to the river, thrust
+into a flat boat, and carried to the plantations. Such negros are not
+exposed for sale in the public bazaars, as that would be attended with
+risk; but a false bill of sale is made out, and the sale is effected to
+some planter before they reach Orleans. There is, of course, always
+collusion between the buyer and seller, and the man is disposed of,
+generally, for half his value.
+
+These are certainly atrocious acts; yet when a British subject reads such
+passages as the following, in the histories of East India government, he
+must feel that if they were ten times as infamous and numerous as they are
+in reality, it becomes not _him_ to censure them. Bolts, who was a judge
+of the mayor's court of Calcutta, says, in his "Considerations on India
+Affairs," page 194, "With every species of monopoly, therefore, every kind
+of oppression to manufacturers of all denominations throughout the whole
+country has daily increased; insomuch that weavers, for daring to sell
+their goods, and Dallals and Pykars, for having contributed to, or
+connived at, such sales, have by the _Company's agents,_ been frequently
+seized and imprisoned, confined in irons, fined considerable sums of
+money, flogged, and deprived, in the most ignominious manner, of what they
+esteem most valuable, their castes. Weavers also, upon their inability to
+perform such agreements as have been _forced from them by the Company's
+agents_, universally known in Bengal by the name of _Mutchulcahs_, have
+had their goods seized and sold on the spot, to make good the deficiency:
+and the winders of raw silk, called _Nagaards_, have been treated also
+with such injustice, that instances have been known of their cutting off
+their thumbs, to prevent their being forced to wind silk. This last kind
+of workmen were pursued with such rigour, during Lord Clive's late
+government in Bengal, from a zeal for _increasing the Company's
+investment_ of raw silk, that the most sacred laws of society were
+atrociously violated; for it was _a common thing for the Company's
+scapoys_ to be sent by force of arms to break open the houses of the
+Armenian merchants established at Sydabad (who have from time immemorial
+been largely concerned in the silk trade), and forcibly take the
+_Nagaards_ from their work, and carry them away to the English factory."
+
+As we approached Cincinnati the number of farms, and the extent of
+cultivated country, indicated the comparative magnitude of that city.
+Fields in this country have nothing like the rich appearance of those in
+England and Ireland, being generally filled with half-rotten stumps,
+scattered here and there among the growing corn, producing a most
+disagreeable effect. Then, instead of the fragrant quickset hedge, there
+is a "worm fence"--the rudest description of barrier known in the
+country--which consists simply of bars, about eight or nine feet in
+length, laid zig-zag on each other alternately: the improvement on this,
+and the _ne plus ultra_ in the idea of a west country farmer, is what is
+termed a "post and rail fence." This denomination of fence is to be seen
+sometimes in the vicinity of the larger towns, and is constructed of posts
+six feet in length, sunk in the ground to the depth of about a foot, and
+at eight or ten feet distance; the rails are then laid into mortises cut
+into the posts, at intervals of about thirteen or fourteen inches, which
+completes the work.
+
+Cincinnati is built on a bend of the Ohio river, which takes here a
+semicircular form, and runs nearly west; it afterwards flows in a more
+southerly direction. A complete chain of hills, sweeping from one point of
+the bend round to the other, encloses the city in a sort of amphitheatre.
+The houses are mostly brick, and the streets all paved. There are several
+spacious and handsome market houses, which on market days are stocked with
+all kinds of provisions--indeed I think the market of Cincinnati is very
+nearly the best supplied in the United States. There are many respectable
+public buildings here, such as a court-house, theatre, bazaar, (built by
+Mrs. Trollope, but the speculation failed), and divers churches, in which
+you may see well-dressed women, and hear orthodox, heterodox, and every
+other species of doctrine, promulgated and enforced by strength of lungs,
+and length of argument, with pulpit-drum accompaniment, and all other
+requisites _ad captandum vulgus_.
+
+The city stands on two plains: one called the bottom, extends about 260
+yards back from the river, and is three miles in length, from Deer Creek
+to Mill Creek; the other is fifty feet higher than the first, and is
+called the Hill; this extends back about a mile. The bottom is sixty-five
+feet above low water mark. In 1815 the population was estimated at 6000,
+and at present it is supposed to be upwards of 25,000 souls. By means of
+the Dayton canal, which runs from that town nearly parallel with the "Big
+Miami" river, a very extensive trade, for all kinds of produce, is
+established with the back country. Steamers are constantly arriving at,
+and departing from the wharf, on their passage up and down the river. This
+is one of the many examples to be met with in the western country, of
+towns springing into importance within the memory of comparatively young
+men--a log-house is still standing, which is shewn as the first habitation
+built by the backwoodsman, who squatted in the forest where now stands a
+handsome and flourishing city.
+
+On arriving at Cincinnati, I learned that my friend T---- had taken up his
+abode at a farm-house a few miles from town, where I accordingly repaired,
+and found him in good health, and initiated into all the manners, habits,
+customs, and diversions of the natives. Farming people in Ohio work hard.
+The women have no sinecures, being occupied the greater part of the day in
+cooking; as they breakfast at eight, dine at half-past twelve, and sup at
+six, and at each of these meals, meat, and other cooked dishes are served
+up. In farming they co-operate with each other. When a farmer wishes to
+have his corn husked, he rides round to his neighbours and informs them of
+his intention. An invitation of this kind was once given in my presence.
+The farmer entered the house, sat down, and after the customary
+compliments were passed, in the usual laconic style, the following
+dialogue took place. "I guess I'll husk my corn to-morrow
+afternoon."--"You've a mighty heap this year."--"Considerable of corn."
+The host at length said, "Well, I guess we'll be along"--and the matter
+was arranged. All these gatherings are under the denomination of
+"frolics"--such as "corn-husking frolic," "apple-cutting frolic,"
+"quilting frolic," &c.
+
+Being somewhat curious in respect to national amusements, I attended a
+"corn-husking frolic" in the neighbourhood of Cincinnati. The corn was
+heaped up into a sort of hillock close by the granary, on which the young
+"Ohiohians" and "buck-eyes"--the lasses of Ohio are called
+"buck-eyes"--seated themselves in pairs; while the old wives, and old
+farmers were posted around, doing little, but talking much. Now the laws
+of "corn-husking frolics" ordain, that for each red ear that a youth
+finds, he is entitled to exact a kiss from his partner. There were two or
+three young Irishmen in the group, and I could observe the rogues kissing
+half-a-dozen times on the same red ears. Each of them laid a red-ear close
+by him, and after every two or three he'd husk, up he'd hold the
+redoubtable red-ear to the astonished eyes of the giggling lass who sate
+beside him, and most unrelentingly inflict the penalty. The "gude wives"
+marvelled much at the unprecedented number of red-ears which that lot of
+corn contained: by-and-by, they thought it "a kind of curious" that the
+Irishmen should find so many of them--at length, the cheat was discovered,
+amidst roars of laughter. The old farmers said the lads were "wide
+awake," and the "buck-eyes" declared that there was no being up to the
+plaguy Irishmen "no how," for they were always sure to have every thing
+their own way. But the mischief of it was, the young Americans took the
+hint, and the poor "buck-eyes" got nothing like fair play for the
+remainder of that evening. All agreed that there was more laughing, and
+more kissing done at that, than had been known at any corn-husking frolic
+since "the Declaration."
+
+The farmers of Ohio are a class of people about equivalent to our second
+and third rate farmer, inasmuch as they work themselves, but possessing
+infinitely more independence in their character and deportment. Every
+white male, who is a citizen of the United States, and has resided one
+year in the state, and paid taxes, has a vote. The members of the
+legislature are elected annually, and those of the senate biennially; half
+of the members of the latter branch vacating their seats every year. The
+representatives, in addition to the qualifications necessary to the
+elector, must be twenty-five years of age; and the senators must have
+resided in the state two years, and must be thirty years of age. The
+governor must be thirty years of age, an inhabitant of the state four
+years, and a citizen of the United States twelve years,--he is eligible
+only for six years in eight.
+
+Notwithstanding the numerous religious sects that are to be found in this
+country, there is nothing like sectarian animosity prevailing. This is to
+be attributed to the ministers of religion being paid as they deserve, and
+no one class of people being taxed to support the religious tenets of
+another.
+
+The farmers of this state are by no means religious, in a doctrinal sense;
+on the contrary, they appear indifferent on matters of this nature. The
+girls _sometimes_ go to church, which here, as in all Christian countries,
+is equivalent to the bazaars of Smyrna and Bagdad; and as the girls go,
+their "dads" must pay the parson. The Methodists are very zealous, and
+have frequent "revivals" and "camp-meetings." I was at two of the latter
+assemblages, one in Kentucky, and the other in Ohio. I shall endeavour to
+convey some idea of this extraordinary species of religious festival.
+
+To the right of Cheriot, which lies in a westerly direction, about ten
+miles from Cincinnati, under the shade of tall oak and elm trees, the camp
+was pitched in a quadrangular form. Three sides were occupied by tents for
+the congregation, and the fourth by booths for the preachers. A little in
+advance before the booths was erected a platform for the performing
+preacher, and at the foot of this, inclosed by forms, was a species of
+sanctuary, called "the penitents' pen." People of every denomination might
+be seen here, allured by various motives. The girls, dressed in all
+colours of the rainbow, congregated to display their persons and
+costumes; the young men came to see the girls, and considered it a sort of
+"frolic;" and the old women, induced by fanaticism, and other motives,
+assembled in large numbers, and waited with patience for the proper season
+of repentance. At the intervals between the "preachments," the young
+married and unmarried women promenaded round the tents, and their smiling
+faces formed a striking contrast to the demure countenances of their more
+experienced sisters, who, according to their age or temperament, descanted
+on the folly, or condemned the sinfulness of such conduct. Some of those
+old dames, I was informed, were decoy birds, who shared the profits with
+the preachers, and attended all the "camp-meetings" in the country.
+
+The psalmodies were performed in the true Yankee style of nasal-melody,
+and at proper and seasonable intervals the preachings were delivered. The
+preachers managed their tones and discourses admirably, and certainly
+displayed a good deal of tact in their calling. They use the most
+extravagant gestures--astounding bellowings--a canting hypocritical
+whine--slow and solemn, although by no means _musical_ intonations, and
+the _et ceteras_ that complete the qualifications of a regular
+camp-meeting methodist parson. During the exhortations the brothers and
+sisters were calling out--Bless God! glory! glory! amen! God grant! Jesus!
+&c.
+
+At the adjournment for dinner, a knowing-looking gentleman was appointed
+to deliver an admonition. I admired this person much for the ingenuity he
+displayed in introducing the subject of collection, and the religious
+obligation of each and every individual to contribute largely to the
+support of the preacher and his brothers of the vineyard. He set forth the
+respectability of the county, as evinced by former contributions, and
+thence inferred, most logically, that the continuance of that respectable
+character depended on the amount of that day's collection. A conversation
+took place behind me, during this part of the preacher's exhortation,
+between three young farmers, which, as being characteristic, I shall
+repeat.
+
+"The old man is wide awake, I guess."
+
+"I reckon he knows a thing or two."
+
+"I calculate he's been on board a flat afore now."
+
+"Yes, I guess a Yankee 'd find it damned hard to sell him _hickory_
+nutmegs."
+
+"It'd take a pretty smart man to poke it on to a parson any how."
+
+"I guess'd it'd come to dollars and cents in the end."
+
+After sunset the place was lighted up by beacon fires and candles, and the
+scene seemed to be changing to one of more deep and awful interest. About
+nine o'clock the preachers began to rally their forces--the candles were
+snuffed--fuel was added to the fires--clean straw was shook in the
+"penitents' pen"--and every movement "gave dreadful note of preparation."
+At length the hour was sounded, and the faithful forthwith assembled. A
+chosen leader commenced to harangue--he bellowed--he roared--he whined--he
+shouted until he became actually hoarse, and the perspiration rolled down
+his face. Now, the faithful seemed to take the infection, and as if
+overcome by their excited feelings, flung themselves headlong on the straw
+into the penitents' pen--the old dames leading the way. The preachers, to
+the number of a dozen, gave a loud shout and rushed into the thick of the
+penitents. A scene now ensued that beggars all description. About twenty
+women, young and old, were lying in every direction and position, with
+caps and without caps, screeching, bawling, and kicking in hysterics, and
+profaning the name of Jesus. The preachers, on their knees amongst them,
+were with Stentorian voices exhorting them to call louder and louder on
+the Lord, until he came upon them; whilst their _attachées,_ with
+turned-up eyes and smiling countenances, were chanting hymns and shaking
+hands with the multitude. Some would now and then give a hearty laugh,
+which is an indication of superior grace, and is called "the holy laugh."
+The scene altogether was highly entertaining--penitents, parsons, caps,
+combs, and straw, jumbled in one heterogeneous mass, lay heaving on the
+ground, and formed at this juncture a grouping that might be done justice
+to by the pencil of Hogarth, or the pen of the author of Hudibras; but of
+which I fear an inferior pen or pencil must fail in conveying an adequate
+idea.
+
+The women were at length carried off, fainting, by their friends, and the
+preachers began to prepare for another scene. From the time of those
+faintings, the "new birth" is dated, which means a spiritual resurrection
+or revival.
+
+The scene that followed appeared to be a representation of "the Last
+Supper." The preachers assembled round a table, and acted as disciples,
+whilst one of them, the leader, presided. The bread was consecrated,
+divided and eaten--the wine served much after the same manner. The
+faithful, brothers and sisters, were now called upon to partake of the
+Sacrament--proper warning, however, being given to the gentlemen, that
+when the wine was handed to them, they were not to take a _drink_, as that
+was quite unnecessary, as a small sup would answer every purpose. One
+gentleman seemed to have forgotten this hint, and attempted to take rather
+more than a sup; but he was prevented by the administering preacher
+snatching the goblet from him with both hands. Many said they were obliged
+to substitute _brandy and water_ for wine; but for this fact I cannot
+vouch. Another straw-tumbling scene now began; and, as if by way of
+variety, the inmates of five or six tents got up similar scenes among
+themselves. The preachers left the field to join the tenters; and, if
+possible, surpassed their previous exhibitions. The women were
+occasionally making confessions, _pro bono publico_, when sundry
+"backslidings" were acknowledged for the edification of the multitude. We
+left the camp about two o'clock in the morning, when these poor fanatics
+were still in full cry.
+
+At Hell Town, near this place, there was an officer's muster held about
+this time. Every citizen exercising the elective franchise is also
+eligible to serve in the militia. There are two general musters held every
+year in each county, and several company meetings. Previous to the general
+muster there is an officer's muster, when the captains and subalterns are
+put through their exercise by the field officers. At this muster, which I
+attended, the superior officers in command certainly appeared to be
+sufficiently conversant with tactics, and explained the rationale of each
+movement in a clear and concise manner; but the captains and subalterns
+went through their exercise somewhat in the manner of the yeomen of the
+Green Island. When the gentlemen were placed in line, and attention was
+commanded, the General turned round to converse with his coadjutors--no
+sooner had he done this than about twenty heroes squatted _a l'Indien;_
+no doubt deeming it more consistent, the day being warm, to sit than
+stand. On the commander observing this movement, which he seemed to think
+quite unmilitary, he remonstrated--the warriors arose; but, alas! the just
+man _falls_ seven times a day, and the militia officers of Hamilton county
+seemed to think it not derogatory to their characters to _squat_ five or
+six. The offence was repeated several times, and as often censured. They
+wheeled into battalions, and out of battalions, in most glorious
+disorder--their _straight_ lines were _zig-zag._ In marching abreast, they
+came to a fence next the road--the tavern was opposite, and the temptation
+too great to be resisted--a number threw down their muskets--tumbled
+themselves over the fence, and rushed into the bar-room to refresh! An
+American's heart sickens at restraint, and nothing but necessity will
+oblige him to observe discipline.
+
+The question naturally arises, how would these forces resist the finely
+disciplined troops of Europe? The answer is short: If the Americans would
+consent to fight _à bataille rangée_ on one of the prairies of Illinois,
+undoubtedly the disciplined troops would prevail; but as neither their
+experience nor inclination is likely to lead them into such circumstances,
+my opinion is, that send the finest army Europe can produce into this
+country, in six months, the forests, swamps, and deadly rifle, united,
+will annihilate it--and let it be remembered, that at the battle of New
+Orleans, there were between two and three thousand British slain, and
+there were only twelve Americans killed, and perhaps double that number
+wounded. In patriotism and personal courage, the Americans are certainly
+not inferior to the people of any nation.
+
+There had been lately throughout the States a good deal of excitement
+produced by an attempt, made by the Presbyterians, to stop the mails on
+the sabbath. This party is headed by a Doctor Ely, of Philadelphia, a
+would-be "lord spiritual," and they made this merely as a trial of
+strength, preparatory to some other measures calculated to lead to a
+church establishment. Their designs, however, have been detected, and
+measures accordingly taken to resist them. At a meeting at which I was
+present at Cincinnati, the people were most enthusiastic, and some very
+strong resolutions were passed, expressive of their abhorrence of this
+attempt to violate the constitution of America.
+
+Good farms within about three or four miles of Cincinnati, one-third
+cleared, are sold at from thirty to fifty dollars per acre. Cows sell at
+from ten to twenty dollars. Horses, at from twenty-five to seventy-five
+and one hundred dollars. Sheep from two to three dollars. There are some
+tolerable flocks of sheep throughout this state, but they are of little
+value beyond the price of the wool, a most unaccountable antipathy to
+mutton existing among the inhabitants.
+
+Whilst on the banks of Lake Erie, having heard a great deal of
+conversation about the "lake fever," I made several inquiries from the
+inhabitants on that subject, the result of which confirmed me in the
+opinion, that the shores of the lakes are quite as healthy as any other
+part of the country, and that here, as elsewhere, the disease arises from
+stagnant pools, swamps, and masses of decayed animal and vegetable matter,
+which are allowed to remain and accumulate in the vicinity of settlements.
+When at New York, I met an old and wealthy farmer, who was himself,
+although eighty years of age, in the enjoyment of rude health. He informed
+me that he had resided in Canada, on the shores of Lake Erie, for the last
+fifty years, and that neither he nor any one of his family had ever been
+afflicted with fever of any description. The district in which he lived,
+was entirely free from local nuisances, and the inhabitants he
+represented as being as healthy as any in the United States.
+
+My observations, so far, lead me to conclude, that this climate agrees
+fully as well with Europeans as with the natives, indeed that the
+susceptibility to fever and ague is greater in the natives than in
+Europeans of good habits. The cause I conceive to be this: the early
+settlers had to encounter swamps of the most pestilential description, and
+dense forests through which the sun's rays had never penetrated, and which
+industry and cultivation have since made in a great measure to disappear.
+They notoriously suffered much from the ravages of malaria, and such as
+survived the baleful effects of this disease, escaped with impaired
+constitutions. Now this susceptibility to intermittent fever, appears to
+me to have been transmitted to their descendants, and to act as the
+predisposing cause. I have seen English and Irish people who have been in
+the country upwards of thirty years, who look just as you would expect to
+find persons of their age at home.
+
+There are situations evidently unhealthy, such as river bottoms, and the
+vicinity of creeks. The soil in those situations is alluvial, and its
+extreme fertility often induces unfortunate people to reside in them. The
+appearance of those persons in general is truly wretched.
+
+The women here, although they live as long as those in the old country,
+yet they fade much sooner, and, with few exceptions, have bad teeth.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER IV.
+
+
+Having decided on visiting New Harmony, in Indiana, where our friend B----
+had been for some time enjoying the delights of sylvan life, and the
+refinements of backwoods-society, T---- and I purchased a horse, and
+Dearborne, a species of light waggon used in this country for travelling.
+We furnished ourselves with a small axe, hunting knives, and all things
+necessary for encamping when occasion required, and so set out about the
+beginning of September.
+
+We crossed the Big-Miami river, and proceeded by a tolerable road, and
+some good farms, to Lawrenceburg, a handsome town on the Ohio, within a
+mile of the outlet of the Miami. From thence we drove on towards
+Wilmington; but our horse becoming jaded, we found it expedient to "camp
+out," within some miles of that town. Next morning we passed through
+Wilmington, but lost the direct track through the forest, and took the
+road to Versailles, which lay in a more northerly direction than the route
+we had proposed to ourselves. This road was one of those newly cut through
+the forest, and there frequently occurred intervals of five or six miles
+between the settlements; and of the road itself, a tolerably correct idea
+may be formed by noting the stipulations made with the contractors, which
+are solely that the roads shall be of a certain width, and that no stump
+shall be left projecting more than _fifteen inches_ above the ground.
+
+On the night of the second day we reached the vicinity of Versailles, and
+put up at the residence of a backwoodsman--a fine looking fellow, with a
+particularly ugly _squaw_. He had come from Kentucky five years
+before--sat down in the forest--"built him" a log-house--wielded his axe
+to the tune of "The Hunters of Kentucky," and had now eighteen acres of
+cleared land, and all the _et ceteras_ of a farm. We supped off
+venison-steaks and stewed squirrel. Our host told us that there was "a
+pretty smart chance of deer" in the neighbourhood, and that when he first
+"located," "there was a small sprinkling of _baar_" (bear), but that at
+present nothing of the kind was to be seen. There was very little comfort
+in the appearance of this establishment; yet the good dame had a
+side-saddle, hung on a peg in one of the apartments, which would not have
+disgraced the lady of an Irish squireen. This appears to be an article of
+great moment in the estimation of West-country ladies, and when nothing
+else about the house is even tolerable, the side-saddle is of the most
+fashionable pattern.
+
+From Versailles, we took the track to Vernon, through a rugged and swampy
+road, it having rained the night before. The country is hilly, and
+interspersed with runs, which are crossed with some difficulty, the
+descents and ascents being very considerable. The stumps, "corduroys"
+(rails laid horizontally across the road where the ground is marshy)
+swamps, and "republicans," (projecting roots of trees, so called from the
+stubborn tenacity with which they adhere to the ground, it being almost
+impossible to grub them up), rendered the difficulty of traversing this
+forest so great, that notwithstanding our utmost exertions we were unable
+to make more than sixteen miles from sunrise to sunset, when, both the
+horse and ourselves being completely exhausted, we halted until morning. I
+was awoke at sunrise by a "white-billed woodpecker," which was making the
+woods ring by the rattling of its bill against a tree. This is a large
+handsome bird, (the _picus principalis_ of Linnaeus), it is sometimes
+called here the wood-cock. Pigeons, squirrels, and turtle-doves abound in
+all these forests, and my friend being an expert gunner, we had always
+plenty of game for dinner. The morning was still grey when we set forward.
+
+We forded the Muskakituck river at Vernon, which stands on its head
+waters, and is a country seat. We then directed our course to Brownstown,
+on the east branch of White river. We found the roads still bad until we
+came within about ten miles of that place. There the country began to
+assume a more cultivated appearance, and the roads became tolerably good,
+being made through a sandy or gravelly district. In the neighbourhood of
+Brownstown there are some rich lands, and from that to Salem, a distance
+of twenty-two miles, we were much pleased with the country. We had been
+hitherto journeying through dense forests, and except when we came to a
+small town, could never see more than about ten yards on either side. All
+through Indiana the peaches were in great abundance this year, and such
+was the weight of fruit the trees had to sustain, that the branches were
+invariably broken where not propped.
+
+From Salem we took a westward track by Orleans to Hindostan, crossed the
+east branch of White river, and passed through Washington. At a short
+distance from this town, we had to cross White river again, near the west
+branch, which is much larger than the east branch. We attempted to ford
+it, and had got into the middle of the stream before we discovered that
+the bottom was quicksands. The horse was scared at the footing,--he
+plunged and broke the traces; however, after a tolerable wetting, we
+succeeded in getting safe out. A little above the place where we made the
+attempt, we found there was a ferry-flat. The ferryman considered our
+attempt as dangerous, for had we gone much further into the stream we
+should have shot into the quicksands in the deep current. This day the
+fates were most unpropitious to us; and had we had, like Socrates, a
+familiar demon at our elbow, he most assuredly would have warned us not
+to proceed. We had no sooner got into the ferry-flat, and pushed off from
+shore, than the horse tumbled overboard, carriage and all, and was with
+difficulty saved from drowning.
+
+We passed through Petersburg to Princeton; but having lost the track, and
+got into several _culs de sacs_, an occurrence which is by no means
+pleasant--as in this case you are unable to turn the carriage, and have no
+alternative but cutting down one or two small trees in order to effect a
+passage. After a great deal of danger and difficulty, we succeeded in
+returning on the true bridle-path, and arrived about ten at night in a
+small village, through which we had passed three hours before. The gloom
+and pitchy darkness of an American forest at night, cannot be conceived by
+the inhabitants of an open country, and the traversing a narrow path
+interspersed with stumps and logs is both fatiguing and dangerous. Our
+horse seemed so well aware of this danger, that whenever the night set
+in, he could not be induced to move, unless one of us walked a little in
+advance before him, when he would rest his nose on our arm and then
+proceed. We crossed the Potoka to Princeton, a neat town, surrounded by a
+fast settling country, and so on to Harmony.
+
+New Harmony is seated on the banks of the Wabash; and following the
+sinuosities of that river, it is distant sixty-four or five miles from the
+Ohio, but over land, not more than seventeen. This settlement was
+purchased by Messrs. Mac Clure and Owen from Mr. Rapp, in the year 1823.
+The Rappites had been in possession of the place for six years, during
+which they had erected several large brick buildings of a public nature,
+and sundry smaller ones as residences, and had cultivated a considerable
+quantity of land in the immediate vicinity of the town. Mr. Owen intended
+to have established here a community of union and mutual co-operation;
+but, from a too great confidence in the power of the system which he
+advocates, to _reform_ character, he has been necessitated to abandon that
+design at present.
+
+Harmony must have been certainly a desirable residence when it was the
+abode of the many literary and scientific characters who composed a part
+of that short-lived community. A few of these still linger here, and may
+be seen stalking through the streets of Harmony, like Marius among the
+ruins of Carthage, deploring the moral desolation that now reigns in this
+once happy place.
+
+Le Seur, the naturalist, and fellow traveller of Peron, in his voyage to
+the Austral regions, is still here. The suavity of manners, and the
+scientific acquirements of this gentleman, command the friendship and
+esteem of all those who have the pleasure of his acquaintance. He has a
+large collection of specimens connected with natural history, which the
+western parts of this country yield in abundance. The advantages presented
+here for the indulgence of retired habits, form at present the only
+attractions sufficient to induce him to live out of _la belle France_.
+
+Mr. Thomas Say, of Philadelphia, who accompanied Major Long on his
+expedition to the Rocky Mountains, also resides here. He too is a recluse,
+and is now preparing a work on his favourite subject, natural history. His
+garden contains a tolerable collection of Mexican and other exotic plants.
+
+Harmony is built on the second bottom of the Wabash, and is perhaps half a
+mile from the river at low water, the first bottom being about that
+breadth. Mosquitos abound here, and are extremely troublesome. There are
+several orchards in the neighbourhood well stocked with apples, peaches,
+&c.; and the soil being rich alluvion, the farms are productive--so much
+as fifty dollars per acre is asked for cleared land, close to the town.
+There is a great scarcity of money here, as in most parts of Indiana, and
+trade is chiefly carried on by barter. Pork, lard, corn, bacon, beans,
+&c., being given, by the farmers, to the store-keepers, in exchange for
+dry goods, cutlery, crockery-ware, &c. The store-keepers either sell the
+produce they have thus collected to river-traders, or forward it to New
+Orleans on their own account.
+
+We made an excursion down the river in true Indian style. Our party,
+consisting of four, equipped in a suitable manner, the weather being then
+delightfully warm, having stowed on board a canoe plenty of provisions,
+paddled down the Wabash. The scenery on the banks of this river is
+picturesque. The foliage in some places springs from the water's edge,
+whilst at other points it recedes, leaving a bar of fine white sand. The
+breadth of the Wabash, at Harmony, is about 200 yards, and it divides
+frequently on its course to the Ohio, forming islands of various degrees
+of beauty and magnitude. On one of these, about six miles from Harmony,
+called the "Cut-off," we determined on encamping. Accordingly, we moored
+our canoe--pitched our tent--lighted our fire--bathed--and having
+acquired enormous appetites by exertion, commenced the very agreeable
+operation of demolishing our provisions. We roamed about that and an
+adjacent island, until evening, when we returned to regale. These islands
+are generally covered with "cane brakes," and low brush wood, which
+renders it difficult to effect a passage across them. Cotton-wood, beech,
+maple, hickory, and white oak, are the trees in greatest abundance.
+Spice-wood, sassafras, and dittany, are also plenty. Of these a decoction
+is made, which some of the woods-people prefer to tea; but it is not in
+general repute. The paw-paw tree (_annona triloba_) produces a fruit
+somewhat resembling in taste and shape the fig-banana, but certainly much
+inferior to that delicious fruit. We saw several deer in the woods, and
+some cranes upon the shore. With smoking, &c., we passed the evening, and
+then retired--not to bed, for we had none--but to a right good
+substitute, a few dry leaves strewn upon the ground--our heads covered by
+the tent, and at our feet a large fire, which we kept up the whole night.
+Thus circumstanced, we found it by no means disagreeable.
+
+We spent greater part of next day much after the manner of the preceding,
+and concluded that it would be highly irrational to shoot game, having
+plenty of provisions; yet I suspect our being too lazy to hunt, influenced
+us not a little in that philosophical decision.
+
+Whilst at Harmony, I collected some information relative to the failure of
+the community, and I shall here give a slight sketch of the result of my
+inquiries. I must observe that so many, and such conflicting statements,
+respecting public measures, I believe never were before made by a body of
+persons dwelling within limits so confined as those of Harmony. Some of
+the _ci-devant_ "communicants" call Robert Owen a fool, whilst others
+brand him with still more opprobrious epithets: and I never could get two
+of them to agree as to the primary causes of the failure of that
+community.
+
+The community was composed of a heterogeneous mass, collected together by
+public advertisement, which may be divided into three classes. The first
+class was composed of a number of well-educated persons, who occupied
+their time in eating and drinking--dressing and promenading--attending
+balls, and _improving the habits_ of society; and they may be termed the
+_aristocracy_ of this Utopian republic. The second class was composed of
+practical co-operators, who were well inclined to work, but who had no
+share, or voice, in the management of affairs. The third and last class
+was a body of theoretical philosophers--Stoics, Platonics, Pythagoreans,
+Epicureans, Peripatetics, and Cynics, who amused themselves in _striking
+out plans_--exposing the errors of those in operation--caricaturing--and
+turning the whole proceedings into ridicule.
+
+The second class, disliking the species of co-operation afforded them by
+the first class, naturally became dissatisfied with their inactivity--and
+the third class laughed at them both. Matters were in this state for some
+time, until Mr. Owen found the funds were completely exhausted. He then
+stated that the community should divide; and that he would furnish land,
+and all necessary materials, for operations, to such of them as wished to
+form a community apart from the original establishment. This intimation
+was enough. The first class, with few exceptions, retired, followed by
+part of both the others, and all exclaiming against Mr. Owen's conduct. A
+person named Taylor, who had entered into a distillery speculation with
+one of Mr. Owen's sons, seized this opportunity to get the control of part
+of the property. Mr. Owen became embarrassed. Harmony was on the point of
+being sold by the sheriff--discord prevailed, and co-operation ceased.
+
+Of the many private and public charges brought against Mr. Owen, I shall
+only notice one. It is said that he invited people to throw up their
+establishments in other parts of America, and come to Harmony, conscious
+at the same time that the community could not succeed, and, indeed, not
+caring much about its success, having ultimately in view the increase of
+the value of his purchase, by collecting a number of persons together, and
+thus making a town--a common speculation in America. Whether these were
+his intentions or not, it is impossible for any man to assert or deny; but
+the fact is no less true, that such has been the result, and that the
+purchase has been increased in value by the failure of the community, so
+that _ultimately_ he is not likely to lose anything by the experiment. As
+to Mr. Owen's statements in public, "that he had been informed that the
+people of America were capable of governing themselves, and that he tried
+the experiment, and found they were not so,"--and that "the place having
+been purchased, it was necessary to get persons to occupy it." These
+constitute but an imperfect excuse for having induced the separation of
+families, caused many thriving establishments to be broken up, and even
+the ruin of some few individuals, who, although their capital was but
+small, yet having thrown it all into the common stock, when the community
+failed, found themselves in a state of complete destitution. These
+persons, then, forgetting the "doctrine of circumstances," and everything
+but the result, and the promises of Mr. Owen, censured him in no measured
+language, and cannot be convinced of the purity of his intentions in
+_that_ affair. Indeed, they have always at hand such a multiplicity of
+facts to prove that Mr. Owen himself mainly contributed to the failure,
+that one must be blinded by that partiality which so known a
+philanthropist necessarily inspires, not to be convinced that, however
+competent he may be to preach the doctrines of co-operation, he is
+totally incompetent to carry them into effect.
+
+But Mr. Owen has also declared in public that "the New Harmony experiment
+succeeded beyond his most sanguine expectations." Now what may be his
+peculiar notions of success, the public are totally ignorant, as he did
+not think fit to furnish any explanation; but this the public do know,
+that between the former and the latter statement there is a slight
+discrepancy.
+
+Some of Mr. Owen's friends _in London_ say, that every thing went on well
+at Harmony until he gave up the management--that is, that he governed the
+community for the first few weeks, the short period of its prosperity, and
+that it declined only from the time of his ceding the dictatorship. Now
+Mr. Owen _himself_ says, that he only interfered when he observed they
+were going wrong; implying that he did not interfere in the commencement,
+but did so subsequently. These are contradictions which would require a
+good deal of mystification to reconcile in appearance. All the
+communicants whom I met in America, although they differed on almost every
+other point, yet agreed on this,--that Mr. Owen interfered from first to
+last during his stay at Harmony, and that at the time when he first
+quitted it nothing but discord prevailed.
+
+Very little experience of a residence in the backwoods convinced Mr. Owen
+that he was not in the situation most consonant with his feelings. He had
+been, when in Europe, surrounded by people who regarded him as an oracle,
+and received his _ipse dixit_ as a sufficient solution for every
+difficulty. His situation at Harmony was very different; for most of the
+persons who came there had been accustomed to exercise their judgment in
+matters of practice, and this Mr. Owen is said not to have been able to
+endure. He would either evade, or refuse, answering direct questions,
+which naturally made men so accustomed to independence as the Americans
+are, indignant. The usual answer he gave to any presuming disciple who
+ventured to request an explanation, was, that "his young friend" was in a
+total state of ignorance, and that he should therefore attend the lectures
+more constantly for the future. There is this peculiarity respecting the
+philosophy propounded by Mr. Owen, which is, that after a pupil has been
+attending his lectures for eighteen months, he (Mr. Owen) declares that
+the said pupil knows nothing at all about his system. This certainly
+argues a defect either in matter or manner.
+
+His followers appear not to be aware of the fact, that Mr. Owen has not
+originated a single new idea in his whole book, but has simply put forward
+the notions of Rousseau, Voltaire, Condorcet, Plato, Sir Thomas More, &c.,
+in other language. His merit consists in this, and no small merit it is,
+that he has collated the ideas of these philosophers--arranged them in a
+tangible shape, and has devoted time and money to assist their
+dissemination.
+
+I find on one of his cards, printed for distribution, the following
+axioms, in the shape of queries, set forth as being _his_ doctrine,--not
+the doctrine which _he advocates_.
+
+"Does it depend upon man to be born of such and such parents?
+
+"Can he choose to take, or not to take, the opinions of his parents and
+instructors?
+
+"If born of Pagan or Mahometan parents, was it in his power to become a
+Christian?"
+
+These positions are laid down by Rousseau, in many passages of his works;
+but as one quotation will be sufficient to establish my assertion, I shall
+not trouble myself to look for others. He says, in his "Lettre à M. de
+Beaumont," p. 124, "A l'égard des objections sur les sectes particuliéres
+dans lesquelles l'universe est divisé, que ne puis-je leur donnez assez de
+force pour rendre chacun moins entêté de la sienne et moins ennemi des
+autres; pour porter chacque homme à l'indulgence, à la douceur, par cette
+consideration si frappante et si naturelle; que s'il fut né dans un autre
+pays, dans une autre secte il prendrait infailliblement pour l'erreur ce
+qu'il prends pour la verité, et pour la verité, ce qu'il prends pour
+l'erreur."
+
+None but a man whose mind had been warped by the too constant
+contemplation of one particular subject, as Mr. Owen's mind has been
+warped by the eternal consideration of the Utopian republic, could suppose
+the practicability of carrying those plans into full effect during the
+existence of the present generation. He himself, whilst preaching to his
+handful of disciples the doctrine of perfect equality, is acting on quite
+different principles; and he has his new lecture-room divided into
+compartments separating the classes in society--thus proving that even his
+few followers are unprepared for such a change as he wishes to introduce
+into society, and that he finds the necessity of temporising even with
+_them_.
+
+Another proof of the variance there is between the theory and the practice
+of Mr. Owen, may be found in the constitution of his new community. The
+first article says, that, "An annual subscription paid, of not less than
+one pound, constitutes _a member_, who is entitled to attend and _vote_ at
+all public meetings of the association." These may be termed the
+twenty-shilling freeholders of the community.[4] Then follow the other
+grades and conditions. A donation of one hundred pounds, constitutes _a
+visitor_ for life: a donation of five hundred pounds, _a vice-president_
+for life: and a donation of one thousand pounds, _a president_, who, "in
+addition to the last-mentioned privileges," will enjoy many others of a
+valuable nature.
+
+King James sold two hundred baronetcies of the United Kingdom, for one
+thousand pounds each; and Mr. Owen offers an unlimited number of
+presidentships in his incipient Utopia on the same advantageous terms. I
+by no means dispute that the distinction Mr. Owen will confer on his
+purchasers may be quite as valuable, in his eyes and those of his
+disciples, as that conferred by King James; yet I cannot help suspecting,
+despite of the insatiable yearning the aristocracy have after
+vain-glorious titles, that few of them will come forward as candidates for
+his Utopian honours.
+
+FOOTNOTES:
+
+[4] Since writing the above, I find that the constitution has already
+undergone an essential change; but Mr. Owen appears to entertain views of
+reformation very different indeed from our present Whig administration,
+for he has actually placed both _members_ and _visitors_ in schedule (A)
+of _his_ reform bill, and at one fell swoop has deprived this most
+deserving class of all political existence. None but vice-presidents and
+presidents have now the power of voting.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER V.
+
+
+Having remained about a fortnight at Harmony, we made the necessary
+arrangements, and, accompanied by B----, set out for St. Louis, in
+Missouri. We crossed the Wabash into Illinois, and proceeded to Albion,
+the settlement made by the late Mr. Birkbeck.
+
+Albion is at present a small insignificant town surrounded by prairies, on
+which there are several handsome farms. Messrs. Birkbeck and Flowers
+purchased large tracts of land in this neighbourhood, for the purpose of
+re-selling or letting it to English or other emigrants. These two
+gentlemen were of the class called in England, "gentlemen farmers," and
+brought with them from that country very large capitals; a considerable
+portion of which, in addition to the money laid out on purchase, they
+expended on improvements. They are both now dead--their property has
+entirely passed into other hands, and the members of their families who
+still remain in this country are in comparative indigence.
+
+The most inveterate hostility was manifested by the backwoods people
+towards those settlers, and the series of outrages and annoyances to which
+they were exposed, contributed not a little to shorten their days. It at
+length became notorious that neither Birkbeck nor Flowers could obtain
+redress for any grievance whatever, unless by appealing to the superior
+courts,--as both the magistrates and jurors were exclusively of the class
+of the offenders; and the "Supreme Court of the United States" declared,
+that the verdicts of the juries, and the decisions of the magistrates
+were, in many cases, so much at variance with the evidences, that they
+were disgraceful to the country. A son of the latter gentleman, a lad
+about fourteen years old, was killed in open day whilst walking in his
+father's garden, by a blow of an axe handle, which was flung at him across
+the fence. The evidence was clear against the murderer, and yet he was
+acquitted. Whilst I was at Vandalia, I saw in a list of lands for sale,
+amongst other lots to be sold for taxes, one of Mr. Flowers'. The fate of
+these gentlemen and their families should be a sufficient warning to
+persons of their class in England, not to attempt settling _in the
+backwoods_; or if they have that idea, to leave aside altogether refined
+notions, and never to bring with them either the feelings or the habits of
+a _gentleman farmer_. The whole secret and cause of this _guerre à mort_,
+declared by the backwoodsmen against Messrs. Birkbeck and Flowers, was,
+that when they first settled upon the prairies, they attempted to act the
+_patron_ and the _benefactor_, and considered themselves _entitled_ to
+some respect. Now a west-country American would rather die like a cock on
+a dunghill, than be patronized after the English fashion; he is not
+accustomed to receive benefactions, and cannot conceive that any man would
+voluntarily confer favours on him, without expecting something in return,
+either in the shape of labour, or goods;--and as to respect, that has
+totally disappeared from his code since "the Declaration."
+
+Mr. Birkbeck was called "Emperor of the Prairies;" and notwithstanding the
+hostility of his neighbours, he seems to have been much respected in the
+other parts of Illinois, as he was chosen secretary of state; and in that
+character he died, in 1825. He at last devoted himself entirely to gaining
+political influence, seeing that it was the duty of every man in a free
+country to be a politician, and that he who "takes no interest in
+political affairs," must be a bad man, or must want capacity to act in the
+common occurrences of life.
+
+From Albion we proceeded towards the Little Wabash; but had not got many
+miles from that town, when an accident occurred which delayed us some
+time. We were driving along through a wood of scrub-oak, or barren, when
+our carriage, coming in contact with a stump that lay concealed beneath
+high grass, was pitched into a rut--it was upset--and before we could
+recover ourselves, away went the horse dashing through the wood, leaving
+the hind wheels and body of the vehicle behind. He took the path we had
+passed over, and fortunately halted at the next corn-field. We repaired
+the damage in a temporary manner, and again set forward.
+
+After having crossed the Little Wabash, we had to pass through three miles
+of swamp frequently above our ancles in the mire, for the horse could
+scarcely drag the empty waggon. We at length came out on "Hardgrove's
+prairie." The prospect which here presented itself was extremely
+gratifying to our eyes. Since I had left the little prairie in the
+Wyandot reserve, I had been buried in eternal forests; and,
+notwithstanding all the efforts one may make to rally one's spirits, still
+the heart of a European sickens at the sameness of the scene, and he
+cannot get rid of the idea of imprisonment, where the visible horizon is
+never more distant than five or six hundred yards. Yet this is the delight
+of an Indian or a backwoodsman, and the gloomy ferocity that characterizes
+these people is evidently engendered by the surrounding scenery, and may
+be considered as indigenous to the forest. Hardgrove's is perhaps the
+handsomest prairie in Illinois--before us lay a rich green undulating
+meadow, and on either side, clusters of trees, interspersed through this
+vast plain in beautiful irregularity--the waving of the high grass, and
+the distant groves rearing their heads just above the horizontal line,
+like the first glimpse of land to the weary navigator, formed a
+combination of ideas peculiar to the scene which lay before us.
+
+With the exception of one or two miles of wood, occasionally, the whole of
+our journey through Illinois lay over prairie ground, and the roads were
+so level, that without any extraordinary exertion on the part of our
+horse, he carried us from thirty to forty miles a day.
+
+We next crossed the "grand prairie," passing over the Indian trace.
+Although this is by no means so picturesque as Hardgrove's, yet the
+boundless prospect that is presented on first entering this prairie is far
+the more sublime--the ideas expand, and the imagination is carried far
+beyond the limits of the eye. We saw some deer scouring the plains, and
+several "prairie wolves" skulking in the high grass--this animal is
+sometimes destructive to sheep. The size is about that of our fox. Most
+farmers keep three or four hounds, which are trained to combat the wolf.
+The training is thus--a dead wolf is first shewn to a young dog, when he
+is set on to tear it; the next process is to muzzle a live wolf, and tie
+him to a stake, when the dog of course kills him; the last is, setting the
+dog on an unmuzzled wolf, which has been tied to a stake, with his legs
+shackled. The dog being thus accustomed to be always the victor, never
+fails to attack and kill the prairie wolf whenever he meets him.
+
+Within thirteen miles of Carlisle, we stopped at an inn, a solitary
+establishment, the nearest habitation being more than six miles distant.
+The landlord, Mr. Elliot, told us that he was unable to accommodate us
+with beds, as his house was already quite full; but that if we could
+dispense with beds, he would provide us with every thing else. Having no
+alternative, we of course acceded to his proposal. There was then holding
+at his house what is termed an "inn fair," or the day after the wedding.
+The marriage takes place at the house of the bride's father, and the day
+following a party is given by the bridegroom, when he takes home his wife.
+The people here assembled had an extremely healthy appearance, and some
+of the girls were decidedly handsome, having, with fine florid
+complexions, regular features and good teeth. The landlord and his sons
+were very civil, as indeed were all the company there assembled.
+
+A great many respectable English yeomen have at different periods settled
+in Illinois, which has contributed not a little to improve the state of
+society; for the inhabitants of these prairies, generally speaking, are
+much more agreeable than those of most other parts of the western country.
+
+When the night was tolerably far advanced, the decks were cleared, and
+three feather beds were placed _seriatem_ on the floor, on which a general
+scramble took place for berths--we wrapped ourselves in our cloaks, and
+lay seventeen in a bed until morning, when we arose, and went out to "have
+a wash." The practice at all inns and boarding-houses throughout the
+western country, excepting at those in the more considerable towns, is to
+perform ablutions gregariously, under one of the porches, either before or
+behind the house--thus attendance is avoided, and the interior is kept
+free from all manner of pollutions.
+
+An abundance of good stone-coal is found all through this state, of which
+I saw several specimens. Were it not for this circumstance, the difficulty
+of procuring wood for fuel and fencing, would more than counterbalance the
+advantages, in other respects, presented to settlers on the prairies.
+
+The average crops of Indian corn are about fifty bushels per acre, which
+when planted, they seldom plough or hoe more than once. In the bottom
+lands of Indiana and Ohio, from seventy to eighty bushels per acre is
+commonly produced, but with twice the quantity of labour and attention,
+independent of the trouble of clearing. There are two denominations of
+prairie: the upland, and the river or bottom prairie; the latter is more
+fertile than the former, having a greater body of alluvion, yet there are
+many of the upland prairies extremely rich, particularly those in the
+neighbourhood of the Wabash. The depth of the vegetable soil on some of
+those plains, has been found frequently to be from eighteen to twenty
+feet, but the ordinary depth is more commonly under five. The upland
+prairies are much more extensive than the river prairies, and are
+invariably free from intermittent fever--an exemption, which to emigrants
+must be of the utmost importance.
+
+Previous to our leaving Elliott's inn, we witnessed a chase of two wolves,
+which had the boldness to come to the sheep-pens close to the house.
+Unfortunately the dogs were not at hand, and the wolves escaped among the
+high grass. Mr. Elliott positively refused accepting of any compensation
+in lieu of our supper and lodging: he said he considered our lodging a
+thing not to be spoken of; and as to our supper--which by-the-by was a
+capital one--he had invited us to that. We merely paid for the horse,
+thanked him for his hospitality, and departed. During our journey through
+Indiana we had invariably to use persuasion, in order to induce the
+farmers to take money for either milk or fruit; and whenever we stayed at
+a farm-house, we never paid more than what appeared to be barely
+sufficient to cover the actual cost of what we consumed.
+
+At Carlisle, a village containing about a dozen houses, we got our vehicle
+repaired. We required a new shaft: the smith walked deliberately out--cast
+his eye on a rail of the fence close by, and in half an hour he had
+finished a capital shaft of white oak.
+
+The next town we came to was Lebanon, and we determined on staying there
+that evening, in order to witness a revival. They have no regular places
+of worship on the prairies, and the inhabitants are therefore subject to
+the incursions of itinerant preachers, who migrate annually, in swarms,
+from the more thickly settled districts. There appeared to be a great
+lack of zeal among the denizens of Lebanon, as notwithstanding the
+energetic exhortations of the preachers, and their fulminating
+denunciations against backsliders, they failed in exciting much
+enthusiasm. The meeting ended, as is customary on such occasions, by a
+collection for the preachers, who set out on horseback, next morning, to
+levy contributions on another body of the natives.
+
+From Lebanon we proceeded across a chain of hills, and came in on a
+beautiful plain, called the "American bottom." Some of those hills were
+clear to the summit, while others were crowned with rich foliage. Before
+us, to the extreme right, were six or seven tumuli, or "Indian mounds;"
+and to the left, and immediately in front, lay a handsome wood. From the
+hills to the river is about six miles; and this space appears evidently to
+have been a lake at some former period, previous to the Mississippi's
+flowing through its present deep channel. Several stagnant ponds lay by
+our road; sufficient indications of the presence of disease, which this
+place has the character of producing in abundance. The beauty of the spot,
+and the fertility of the soil, have, notwithstanding, induced several
+English families to settle here. Their houses are built of brick, and
+their gardens and farms are laid out and fenced tastefully.
+
+After traversing the wood, we at length came in sight of the Mississippi,
+which is here about three quarters of a mile broad. There is a steam
+ferry-boat stationed at this point, (opposite St. Louis), the construction
+of which is rather singular. It is built nearly square, having in the
+middle a house containing two spacious apartments, and on each side decks,
+on which stand horses, oxen, waggons and carriages of every description.
+
+St. Louis is built on a bluff bank. The _principal_ streets rise one above
+the other, running parallel with the river; the houses are mostly built of
+stone, the bank being entirely composed of that material, the walls
+whitewashed, and the roofs covered with tin: from the opposite side it
+presents a very gay appearance. The ascent from the water's edge to the
+back of the town is considerable, but regular. The streets intersect each
+other at right angles, as do those of most American towns. They are much
+too narrow, having been laid down and built on from a plan designed by the
+Spanish commandant, previous to the Missouri territory becoming part of
+the United States. The population is estimated at six thousand, composed
+of Creole-French, Irish, and Americans.
+
+St. Louis must, at some future period, become decidedly the most important
+town in the western country, from its local and relative situation. It is
+seated on the most favourable point below the mouths of two noble rivers,
+the Missouri and the Illinois,[5] having at its back an immense tract of
+fertile country, and open and easy communication with the finest parts of
+the western and north-western territories. These advantages, added to the
+constant and uninterrupted intercourse which it enjoys with the southern
+ports, must ultimately make St. Louis a town of wealth and magnitude.
+
+We visited General Clarke's museum, which chiefly contains Indian costumes
+and implements of war, with some minerals and fossils, a portion of which
+he collected while on the expedition to the Rocky mountains with Lewis;
+and also, two sods of good black turf, from the bogs of Allen, in Ireland.
+A sight which was quite exhilarating, and reminded me so strongly of the
+fine odour which exhales from the products of illicit distillation, that
+guagers and potteen, like the phantoms of hallucination, were presenting
+themselves continually to my imagination for the remainder of that day.
+
+General Clarke is a tall, robust, grey-headed old man, with beetle-brows,
+and uncouthly aspect: his countenance is expressive of anything but
+intelligence; and his celebrity is said to have been gained principally by
+his having been the _companion_ of Lewis to the Rocky mountains.
+
+The country around St. Louis is principally prairie, and the soil
+luxuriant. There are many excellent farms, and some fine herds of cattle,
+in the neighbourhood: yet the supply of produce seems to be insufficient,
+as considerable quantities are imported annually from Louisville and
+Cincinnati. The principal lots of ground in and near the town are at the
+disposal of some five or six individuals, who, having thus created a
+monopoly, keep up the price. This, added to the little inducement held out
+to farming people in a slave state, where no man can work himself without
+losing _caste_, has mainly contributed to retard the increase of
+population and prosperity in the neighbourhood of St. Louis.
+
+There are two fur companies established here. The expeditions depart early
+in spring, and generally return late in autumn. This trade is very
+profitable. A person who is at present at the head of one of those
+companies, was five years ago a bankrupt, and is now considered wealthy.
+He bears the character of being a regular Yankee; and if the never giving
+a direct answer to a plain question constitutes a Yankee, he is one most
+decidedly. We had some intention of crossing to Santa Fé, in New Mexico,
+and we accordingly waited on him for the purpose of making some inquiries
+relative to the departure of the caravans; but to any of the plain
+questions we asked, we could not get a satisfactory answer,--at length,
+becoming tired of hedge-fighting, we departed, with quite as much
+information as we had before the interview.
+
+A trapping expedition is being fitted out for the Rocky mountains, on an
+extensive scale. The number of persons intended to be employed on this, is
+about two hundred. Teams for the transportation of merchandize and
+luggage are preparing, which is an accommodation never enjoyed before by
+trappers, as pack-horses have always hitherto been substituted. These
+waggons may also be found useful as _barricades_, in case of an attack
+from the Indians. The expedition will be absent two or three years.
+
+A trade with Santa Fé is also established. In the Spanish country the
+traders receive, in exchange for dry goods and merchandize of every
+description, specie, principally; which makes money much more plentiful
+here than in any other town in the western country.
+
+The caravans generally strike away, near the head waters of the Arkansas
+and Red rivers, to the south-west, close to the foot of the Rocky
+mountains--travelling above a thousand miles through the Indian country
+before they reach the Mexican boundary. These journeys are long and
+tedious, and require men of nerve and muscle to undertake them; the
+morasses and rivers which they have to cross--the extensive prairies and
+savannahs they have to traverse, and the dense forests to penetrate, are
+sufficient to subdue any but iron constitutions.
+
+The countries west of the Mississippi are likely to be greatly enriched by
+the trade with Mexico; as, in addition to the vast quantities of valuable
+merchandize procured from that country, specie to a very large amount is
+put in circulation, which to a new country is of incalculable advantage.
+The party which lately returned to Fayette in Missouri, brought 200,000
+dollars in specie.
+
+The lead-mines of Galena and Potosi inundate St. Louis with that metal.
+The latter mines are extensive, consisting of forty in number, and are
+situated near the head of Big-river, which flows into the Merrimac: a
+water transportation is thus effected to the Mississippi, eighteen miles
+below St. Louis. This, however, is only in the spring and fall, as at
+other seasons the Merrimac is not navigable for common-sized boats, at a
+greater distance than fifty miles from its mouth. The Merrimac is upwards
+of 200 miles in length, and at its outlet it is about 200 yards in
+breadth.
+
+The principal buildings in St. Louis are, the government-house, the
+theatre, the bank of the United States, and three or four Catholic and
+Protestant churches. The Catholic is the prevalent religion. There are two
+newspapers published here. Cafés, billiard tables, dancing houses, &c.,
+are in abundance.
+
+The inhabitants of St. Louis more resemble Europeans in their manners and
+habits than any other people I met with in the west. The more wealthy
+people generally spend some time in New Orleans every year, which makes
+them much more sociable, and much less _brusque_ than their neighbours.
+
+We visited Florissant, a French village, containing a convent and a young
+ladies' seminary. The country about this place pleased us much. We passed
+many fine farms--through open woodlands, which have much the appearance
+of domains--and across large tracts of sumach, the leaves of which at this
+season are no longer green, but have assumed a rich crimson hue. The
+Indians use these leaves as provision for the pipe.
+
+We stayed for eight days at a small village on the banks of the
+Mississippi, about six miles below St. Louis, and four above Jefferson
+barracks, called Carondalet, or, _en badinage, "vide poche."_ The
+inhabitants are nearly all Creole-French, and speak a miserable _patois_.
+The same love of pleasure which, with bravery, characterizes the French
+people in Europe, also distinguishes their descendants in Carondalet.
+Every Saturday night _les garçons et les filles_ meet to dance quadrilles.
+The girls dance well, and on these occasions they dress tastefully. These
+villagers live well, dress well, and dance well, but have
+miserable-looking habitations; the house of a Frenchman being always a
+secondary consideration. At one of those balls I observed a very pretty
+girl surrounded by gay young Frenchmen, with whom she was flirting in a
+style that would not have disgraced a belle from the _Faubourg St. Denis_,
+and turning to my neighbour, I asked him who she was; he replied, "Elle
+s'appelle Louise Constant, monsieur,--c'est la rose de village." Could a
+peasant of any other nation have expressed himself so prettily, or have
+been gallant with such a grace?
+
+Accompanied by our landlord, we visited Jefferson barracks. The officer to
+whom we had an introduction not being _chez-lui_ at that time, we were
+introduced to some other officers by our host, who united in his single
+person the triple capacity of squire, or magistrate, newspaper proprietor,
+and tavern-keeper. The officers, as may be expected, are men from every
+quarter of the Union, whose manners necessarily vary and partake of the
+character of their several states.
+
+The barracks stand on the bluffs of the Mississippi, and, with the river's
+bank, they form a parallelogram--the buildings are on three sides, and
+the fourth opens to the river; the descent from the extremity of the area
+to the water's edge is planted with trees, and the whole has a picturesque
+effect. These buildings have been almost entirely erected by the soldiers,
+who are compelled to work from morning till night at every kind of
+laborious employment. This arrangement has saved the state much money; yet
+the propriety of employing soldiers altogether in this manner is very
+questionable. Desertions are frequent, and the punishment hitherto
+inflicted for that crime has been flogging; but Jackson declares now that
+shooting must be resorted to. The soldiers are obliged to be servilely
+respectful to the officers, _pulling off_ the undress cap at their
+approach. This species of discipline may be pronounced inconsistent with
+the institutions of the country, yet when we come to consider the
+materials of which an _American_ regular regiment is composed, we shall
+find the difficulty of producing order and regularity in such a body much
+greater than at first view might be apprehended. In this country any man
+who wishes to work may employ himself profitably, consequently all those
+who sell their liberty by enlisting must be the very dregs of society--men
+without either character or industry--drunkards, thieves, and culprits who
+by flight have escaped the penitentiary, and enlisted under the impression
+that the life of a soldier was one of idleness; in which they have been
+most grievously mistaken. When we take these facts into consideration, the
+difficulty of managing a set of such fellows will appear more than a
+little. Yet unquestionably there are individuals among the officers whose
+bearing is calculated to inspire any thing but that respect which they so
+scrupulously exact, and without which they declare it would be impossible
+to command. The drillings take place on Sundays.
+
+Near Carondalet we visited two slave-holders, who employed slaves in
+agriculture; which practice experience has shewn in every instance to be
+unprofitable. One had thirteen; and yet every thing about his house rather
+indicated poverty than affluence. These slaves lived in a hut, among the
+outhouses, about twelve feet square--men, women, and children; and in
+every respect were fully as miserable and degraded in condition as the
+unfortunate wretches who reside in the lanes and alleys of St. Giles' and
+Spitalfields, with this exception, that _they_ were well fed. The other
+slave-holder, brother of the former, lived much in the same manner;--but
+it is necessary to observe that both these persons were hunters, and that
+hunters have nothing good in their houses but dogs and venison.
+
+T---- having gone on a hunting excursion with our host, and some of his
+friends, B---- and I drove the ladies to the plantation of the latter
+gentleman. He had a farm on the bluffs, which was broken and irregular, as
+is always the case in those situations. Large holes, called "sink-holes,"
+are numerous along these banks; the shape of them is precisely that of an
+inverted cone, through the apex of which the water sinks, and works its
+way into the river. Cedar trees grow on the rocks, and the scenery is in
+many places extremely grand. Wild-geese congregate in multitudes on the
+islands in the Mississippi, and at night send forth the most wild and
+piercing cries.
+
+Our hostess was one of those sylvan Amazons who could handle any thing,
+from the hunting-knife to the ponderous axe; and she dressed in the true
+sylph-like costume of the backwoods. Her _robe_, which appeared to be the
+only garment with which she encumbered herself, fitted her, as they say at
+sea, "like a purser's shirt on a handspike," and looked for all the world
+like an inverted sack, with appropriate apertures cut for head and arms;
+she wore shoes, in compliment to her guests--her hair hung about her
+shoulders in true Indian style; and altogether she was a genuine sample
+of backwoods' civilization. We were placed in a good bed--the state-bed of
+course--and as we lay, paid our devotions to Urania, and contemplated the
+beauties of the starry firmament, through an aperture in the roof which
+would have admitted a jackass.
+
+The proprietor assured us that his slaves produced him no more than the
+bare interest of the money invested in their purchase, and that he was a
+slave-holder not from choice, but because it was the prevailing practice
+of the country. He said he had two handsome Mulatto girls hired out at the
+barracks for six dollars per month each.
+
+In St. Louis there were seven Indian chiefs, hostages from the Ioway
+nation. Their features were handsome--with one exception, they had all
+aquiline noses--they were tall and finely proportioned, and altogether as
+fine-looking fellows as I ever saw. The colour of these Indians was much
+redder than that of any others I had seen; their heads were shaven, with
+the exception of a small stripe, extending from the centre of the
+crown back to the _organ of philoprogenitiveness_--the gallant
+scalping-lock--which was decorated with feathers so as somewhat to
+resemble the crest of a Greek or Roman helmet. Their bodies were uncovered
+from the waist upwards, except when they wore blankets, a modern
+substitute for the buffalo-robe, which they commonly wore over the left
+shoulder, leaving the right arm and breast bare. The Ioways are a nation
+dwelling in the Missouri territory, and these hostages delivered
+themselves up pending the investigation of an affray that had taken place
+between their people and the backwoodsmen.
+
+The day previous to our departure from St. Louis, the investigation took
+place in the Museum, which is also the office of Indian affairs. There
+were upwards of twenty Indians present, including the hostages. The charge
+made against these unfortunate people and on which they had been obliged
+to come six or seven hundred miles, to stand their trial before _white
+judges_, was, "that the Ioways had come down on the white
+territory--killed the cattle, and attacked the settlers, by which attack
+four citizens lost their lives." The principal chief implicated in the
+affair, named "Big-neck," was called upon for his defence. In the person
+of this man there was nothing remarkable. He advanced into the centre of
+the room, and disengaging his right arm from the blanket, shook hands with
+the judges, and then, in succession, with all the officers of the court.
+This ceremony being ended, he paused, and drawing himself up to his full
+height, extended his arm forward towards the judge, and inclining his head
+a little in the same direction, said, "If I had done that of which my
+white brother accuses me, I would not stand here now. The words of my
+red-headed father (General Clarke) have passed through both my ears, and I
+have remembered them. I am accused, and I am not guilty." (The
+interpreter translated each sentence as it was delivered, and gave it as
+nearly verbatim as possible--observe, the pronoun I is here used
+figuratively, for _his party, and for the tribe_). "I thought I would come
+down to see my red-headed father, to hold a talk with him.--I come across
+the line (boundary)--I see the cattle of my white brother dead--I see the
+Sauk kill them in great numbers--I said that there would be trouble--I
+turn to go to my village--I find I have no provisions--I say, let us go
+down to our white brother, and trade our powder and shot for a little--I
+do so, and again turn upon my tracks, until I reach my village."--He here
+paused, and looking sternly down the room, to where two Sauks sat, pointed
+his finger at them and said, "The Sauk, who always tells lie of me, goes
+to my white brother and says--the Ioway has killed your cattle. When the
+lie (the Sauk) had talked thus to my white brother, he comes, thirty, up
+to my village--we hear our brother is coming--we are glad, and leave our
+cabins to tell him he is welcome--but while I shake hands with my white
+brother," he said, pointing to his forehead, "my white brother shoots me
+through the head--my best chief--three of my young men, a squaw and his[6]
+child. We come from our huts unarmed--even without our blankets--and yet,
+while I shake hands with my white brother, he shoots me down--my best
+chief. My young men within, hear me shot--they rush out--they fire on my
+white brother--he falls, four--my people fly to the woods without their
+rifles." He then stated that four more Indians died in the forest of cold
+and starvation, fearing to return to their villages, and being without
+either blankets or guns. At length returning, and finding that their
+"great chiefs" had delivered themselves up, he came to stand his trial.
+
+The next person called was an old chief, named "Pumpkin," who corroborated
+the testimony of "Big-Neck," but had not been with the party when the
+Sauks were seen killing the cattle. When he came to that part of the story
+where the Indian comes from his wig-wam to meet the white man, he said,
+nearly in the same words used by Big-neck, "While I shake hands with my
+white brother, my white brother shoots me down--my best chief"--he here
+paused, and lifting his eyes above the heads of the auditors, his lip
+curling a little, but resuming again, almost immediately, its natural
+position, he pronounced in a low but distinct guttural tone, the Indian
+word meaning "_my_ son." His eye seemed fixed for a few seconds, and then,
+as if conscious of his weakness, and that the eyes of the great warriors
+of his tribe were upon him, he looked slowly round in a kind of solemn
+triumph, and resumed his tale. There was a strong feeling excited in the
+court by the misfortune of this old man, for the "best chief" of the
+Ioways was his _only_ son. The court asked the chiefs what they thought
+should be done in the matter? They spoke a few words to each other, and
+then answered promptly, that all they required was, that their white
+brother should be brought down also, and confronted with them. The
+prisoners were set at liberty on their parole.
+
+Nothing could have been more respectable than the silence and gravity of
+the Indians during the investigation. The hostages particularly, were
+really imposing in their appearance; an air of solemnity overspread their
+manly countenances, whilst their eyes bespoke that unquailing spirit which
+the habits and vicissitudes of a sylvan life are calculated rather to
+raise than depress. The Indians, when uncontaminated by the vices of the
+whites, are really a fine people; and it is melancholy to reflect that in
+a few centuries the red-man will be known only by name, for his total
+extinction seems almost inevitable.
+
+The upshot of this affair proved that the Indians' statement was correct,
+and a few presents was then thought sufficient to compensate the tribe for
+this most unwarrantable outrage.
+
+The fact of the prisoners being set free on their parole, proves the high
+character they maintain with the whites. An officer who had seen a great
+deal of service on the frontiers, assured me that, from _experience_, he
+had rather fall into the hands of the Indians, than of the
+backwoodsmen.[7] Once, while crossing one of the immense prairies in the
+Missouri territory during the winter season, this gentleman, Mr. R----,
+was seized with rheumatic pains, and unable to proceed. His party,
+consisting only of a few men, had no provisions, nor had they any means of
+taking him with them, being completely exhausted themselves--he was left
+on the plains to die. An old Indian chief, of one of the hostile tribes,
+chanced to find him; he carried him home, and nourished him until he was
+sufficiently recovered to eat with the warriors; when they came to the hut
+of his host, in order as they said to do honour to the unfortunate white
+chief. He remained in their village for two months; at the expiration of
+which time, being sufficiently recovered, they conducted him to the
+frontiers, took their leave, and retired.
+
+Clements Burleigh, who resided thirty years in the United States, says, in
+his "Advice to Emigrants," "It may be objected by some that it is
+dangerous to go to the frontier country, on account of the Indians, wild
+beasts, &c.; this is no more than a scarecrow. Indians in time of peace
+are perfectly inoffensive, and every dependence may be placed on them. If
+you call at their huts, you are invited to partake of what they have--they
+even will divide with you the last morsel they have, if they were starving
+themselves; and while you remain with them you are perfectly safe, as
+every individual of them would lose his life in your defence. This
+unfortunate portion of the human race has not been treated with that
+degree of justice and tenderness which people calling themselves
+Christians ought to have exercised towards them. Their lands have been
+forcibly taken from them in many instances without rendering them a
+compensation; and in their wars with the people of the United States, the
+most shocking cruelties have been exercised towards them. I myself fought
+against them in two campaigns, and was witness to scenes a repetition of
+which would chill the blood, and be only a monument of disgrace to people
+of my own colour.
+
+"Being in the neighbourhood of the Indians during the time of peace, need
+not alarm the emigrant, as the Indian will not be as dangerous to him as
+idle vagabonds that roam the woods and hunt. He has more to dread from
+these people of his own colour than from the Indians."
+
+FOOTNOTES:
+
+[5] Eighteen miles below the mouth of the Missouri, and thirty-six below
+that of the Illinois.
+
+[6] In the Indian tongue there is no distinction of masculine or feminine
+gender, but simply of animate and inanimate beings.
+
+[7] "The freedom of manners, and the uncertainty of life, from the
+various hazards to which it is inevitably exposed, imparts to the
+character of savages a species of liberality, under which are couched
+many benevolent principles; a respect for the aged, and in several
+instances a deference to their equals. The natural coldness of their
+temperament, admits of few outward demonstrations of civility. They are,
+however, affable in their mode, and are ever disposed to show towards
+strangers, and particularly towards the unfortunate, the strongest marks
+of hospitality. A savage will seldom hesitate to share with a
+fellow-creature oppressed by hunger, his last morsel of
+provisions."--Vide _Heriot_, p. 318.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER VI.
+
+
+On our return to Illinois from Missouri, we visited the tumuli in the
+"American bottom," for the purpose of more closely investigating the form
+and disposition of these sepulchral mounds. Their shape is invariably
+hemispherical, or of the _mamelle_ form. Throughout the country, from the
+banks of the Hudson to a considerable distance beyond the Mississippi,
+tumuli, and the remains of earthen fortifications were dispersed. Those of
+the former which have been removed, were found to contain human bones,
+earthen vessels, and utensils composed of alloyed metal; which latter fact
+is worthy of particular notice, as none of the Indians of North America
+are acquainted with the art of alloying. The vessels were generally of
+the form of drinking cups, or ewer-shaped cans, sometimes with a flange to
+admit a cover. One of those which I saw in a museum at Cincinnati, had
+three small knobs at the bottom on which it stood, and I was credibly
+informed that a dissenting clergyman, through the _esprit de métier_,
+undertook to prove from the circumstance, that the people who raised these
+mounds and fortifications must have been acquainted with the doctrine of
+the Trinity. How far the reverend gentleman is correct in his inference, I
+leave for theologians to decide.
+
+The Indians do not claim the mounds as depositories for _their_ dead, but
+are well aware of their containing human bones. They frequently encamp
+near them, and visit them on their journeys, but more as land marks than
+on any other account. They approach them with reverence, as they do all
+burial places, no matter of what people or nation. The Quapaws have a
+tradition, that they were raised "many hundred snows" ago, by a people
+that no longer exists; they say, that in those days game was so plenty
+that very little exertion was necessary to procure a subsistence, and
+there were then no wars--these happy people having then no employment,
+collected, merely for sport, these heaps of earth, which have ever since
+remained, and have subsequently been used by another people, who succeeded
+them, as depositories of their dead. Another tradition is, that they were
+erected by the Indians to protect them from the mammoths, until the Great
+Spirit took pity on his red children, and annihilated these enormous
+elephants. Most of the Indian nations concur in their having been the work
+of a people which had ceased to exist before the red men possessed those
+hunting grounds.
+
+The numerous mounds, fortifications, and burial caverns, and the skeletons
+and mummies, that have been discovered in these catacombs, sufficiently
+establish the fact, that a people altogether different from the present
+aborigines once inhabited these regions. At what period this by-gone
+people flourished still remains a matter of mere conjecture, for to the
+present time no discovery has been made that could lead to any plausible
+supposition.
+
+De Witt Clinton having paid more attention to the antiquities of America
+than any other person of whom I am aware, I shall here insert his
+description of the forts. He says, "These forts were, generally speaking,
+erected on the most commanding ground. The walls, or breastworks, were
+earthen. The ditches were on the exterior of the works. On some of the
+parapets, oak trees were to be seen, which, from the number of concentric
+circles, must have been standing one hundred and fifty, two hundred and
+sixty, and three hundred years; and there were evident indications, not
+only that they had sprung up since the erection of these works, but that
+they were at least a second growth. The trenches were in some cases deep
+and wide, and in others shallow and narrow; and the breastworks varied in
+altitude from three to eight feet. They sometimes had one, and sometimes
+two entrances, as was to be inferred from there being no ditches at those
+places. When the works were protected by a deep ravine, or large stream of
+water, no ditch was to be seen. The areas of these forts varied from two
+to six acres; and the form was in general an irregular ellipsis; in some
+of them, fragments of earthenware and pulverized substances, supposed to
+have been originally human bones, were to be found."
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+"I believe we may confidently pronounce, that all the hypotheses which
+attribute these works to Europeans are incorrect and fanciful: 1st. on
+account of the present number of the works; 2d. on account of their
+antiquity; having from every appearance been erected a long time before
+the discovery of America; and, finally, their form and manner are varient
+from European fortifications, either in ancient or modern times.
+
+"It is equally clear that they were not the work of the Indians. Until the
+Senecas, who are renowned for their national vanity, had seen the
+attention of the Americans attracted to these erections, and had invented
+the fabulous account of which I have spoken, the Indians of the present
+day did not pretend to know any thing about their origin. They were beyond
+the reach of all their traditions, and were lost in the abyss of
+unexplored antiquity."
+
+At the Bull shoals, east branch of White river in Missouri, several feet
+below the surface of the banks, _reliqua_ were found which indicated that
+this spot had formerly been the seat of metalurgical operations. The alloy
+appeared to be lead united with silver. Arrow-heads cut out of flint, and
+pieces of earthen pots which had evidently undergone the action of fire,
+were also found here. The period of time at which these operations were
+carried on in this place must have been very remote, as the present banks
+have been since entirely formed by alluvial deposits.
+
+Near the _Teel-te-nah_ (or dripping-fork), which empties itself into the
+La Platte, and not far distant from its junction with that river, there is
+an extensive cavern, in which are deposited several mummies. Some tribes
+which roam this region have a tradition, that the first Indian ascended
+through this aperture, and settled on the earth's surface.
+
+A few years since, on the Merrimac river in St. Louis county, a number of
+pigmy graves were discovered. The coffins were of stone; and the length of
+the bodies which they contained, judging from that of the coffins, could
+not have been more than from three feet and a half to four feet. The
+graves were numerous, and the skeletons in some instances nearly entire.
+
+In the month of June (1830), a party of gentlemen, whilst in pursuit of
+wild turkeys, in Hart county, Kentucky, discovered, on the top of a small
+knoll, a hole sufficiently large to admit a man's body. Having procured
+lights, they descended, and at the depth of about sixty feet, entered a
+cavern, sixteen or eighteen feet square, apparently hewn out of solid
+rock. The whole chamber was filled with human skeletons, which they
+supposed, _from the size_, to be those of women and children. The place
+was perfectly dry, and the bones were in a state of great preservation.
+They wished to ascertain how deep the bones lay, and dug through them
+between four and seven feet, but found them quite as plentiful as at the
+top: on coming to this depth, dampness appeared, and an unpleasant
+effluvia arising, obliged them to desist. There was no outlet to the
+cavern. A large snake, which appeared to be perfectly docile, passed
+several times round the apartment whilst they remained.
+
+In a museum at New York, I saw one of those mummies alluded to, which
+appeared to be remarkably small; but I had not an opportunity of examining
+it minutely. Those that have been found in the most perfect state of
+preservation were deposited in nitrous caves, and were enveloped in a
+manner so different from the practices of the Indians, that the idea
+cannot be entertained of their being the remains of the ancestors of the
+present race. Flint gives the following description of one of them which
+he carefully examined. He says, "The more the subject of the past races of
+men and animals in this region is investigated, the more perplexed it
+seems to become. The huge bones of the animals indicate them to be vastly
+larger than any that now exist on the earth. All that I have seen and
+heard of the remains of the men, would seem to shew that they were smaller
+than the men of our times. All the bodies that have been found in that
+high state of preservation, in which they were discovered in nitrous
+caves, were considerably smaller than the present ordinary stature of
+men. The two bodies that were found in the vast limestone cavern in
+Tennessee, one of which I saw at Lexington, were neither of them more than
+four feet in height. It seems to me that this must have been nearly the
+height of the living person. The teeth and nails did not seem to indicate
+the shrinking of the flesh from them in the desiccating process by which
+they were preserved. The teeth were separated by considerable intervals;
+and were small, long, white, and sharp, reviving the horrible images of
+nursery tales of ogres' teeth. The hair seemed to have been sandy, or
+inclining to yellow. It is well known that nothing is so uniform in the
+present Indian as his lank black hair. From the pains taken to preserve
+the bodies, and the great labour of making the funeral robes in which they
+were folded, they must have been of the 'blood-royal,' or personages of
+great consideration in their day. The person that I saw, had evidently
+died by a blow on the skull. The blood had coagulated there into a mass,
+of a texture and colour sufficiently marked to shew that it had been
+blood. The envelope of the body was double. Two splendid blankets,
+completely woven with the most beautiful feathers of the wild turkey,
+arranged in regular stripes and compartments, encircled it. The cloth on
+which these feathers were woven, was a kind of linen of neat texture, of
+the same kind with that which is now woven from the fibres of the nettle.
+The body was evidently that of a female of middle age, and I should
+suppose that her majesty weighed, when I saw her, six or eight pounds."
+
+The silly attempts that have been made to establish an oriental origin for
+the North American Indians, have never produced any other conviction in an
+unbiased mind, than that the _facts_ brought forward to support that
+theory existed only in the imaginations of those who advanced them. The
+colour, the form, the manners, habits, and propensities of the Indians,
+all combine to establish that they are a distinct race of human beings,
+and could never have emanated from any people of European, Asiatic, or
+African origin. The notion that climate would be sufficient to produce an
+essential change in the appearance of any number of individuals, cannot
+now be maintained; since from the discovery of America, Europeans,
+Africans, and Indians have inhabited all regions of this vast continent,
+without undergoing the slightest characteristic change from the
+descendants of the original stock, who have remained in their primitive
+locations. The Power that induces the existence of plants and lower
+animals indigenous to the different sections of the earth, seems also to
+induce the existence of a race of men peculiar to the regions in which
+they are found.
+
+The languages of America are radically different from those of the old
+world; and no similitude can be traced between the tongues of the red
+men, and those of any other people hitherto known. Jarvis, in his Paper on
+the Religion of the Indian Tribes of North America, says, "The best
+informed writers agree, that there are, exclusive of the Karalit or
+Esquimaux, three radical languages spoken by the Indians of North America.
+Mr. Heckwelder denominates them the Iroquois, the Lenapé, and the
+Floridian. The Iroquois is spoken by the Six Nations, the Wyandots, or
+Hurons, the Nandowessies, the Assiniboils, and other tribes beyond the St.
+Lawrence. The Lenapé, which is the most widely extended language on this
+side the Mississippi, was spoken by the tribes now extinct, who formerly
+inhabited Nova Scotia and the present state of Maine, the Abenakis,
+Micmacs, Canibas, Openangos, Soccokis, Etchemins, and Souriquois; dialects
+of it are now spoken by the Miamis, the Potawatomies, Missisangoes, and
+Kickapoos; the Eonestogas, Nanticokes, Shawanese, and Mohicans; the
+Algonquins, Knisteneaux, and Chippeways. The Floridian includes the
+languages of the Creeks, or Muskohgees, Chickesaws, Choctaws, Pascagoulas,
+Cherokees, Seminolese, and several other tribes in the southern states and
+Florida. These three languages are primitive; that is to say, are so
+distinct as to have no perceivable affinity. All, therefore, cannot be
+derived from the Hebrew; for it is a contradiction in terms to speak of
+three languages radically different, as derived from a common source.
+Which, then, we may well ask, is to be selected as the posterity of the
+Israelites: the Iroquois, the Lenapé, or the southern Indians?
+
+"Besides, there is one striking peculiarity in the construction of
+American languages, which has no counterpart in the Hebrew. Instead of the
+ordinary division of genders, they divide into animate and inanimate. It
+is impossible to conceive that any nation, in whatever circumstances they
+might be placed, could depart in so remarkable a manner from the idioms of
+their native language."
+
+M. Duponceau, a Frenchman settled at Philadelphia, who is perhaps one of
+the first philologists of the age, concludes a treatise on the same
+subject with the following deductions:
+
+1.--"That the American languages, in general, are rich in words and in
+grammatical forms; and that in their complicated construction, the
+greatest order, method, and regularity prevail."
+
+2.--"That these complicated forms, which I call polysinthetic, appear to
+exist in all those languages, from Greenland to Cape Horn."[8]
+
+3.--"That these forms appear to differ essentially from those of the
+ancient and modern languages of the old hemisphere."
+
+We intended to proceed direct from the banks of the Mississippi to
+Edwardsville, which lies in a north-easterly direction from St. Louis, but
+unfortunately got on the wrong track, an occurrence by no means uncommon
+on the prairies, and by this casualty visited Troy, a _town_ containing
+two houses, namely, a "groggery," and a farm-house, both owned by the one
+person. The only resemblance this trans-Atlantic Ilium can possibly bear
+to the city of the ten years' siege, lies in the difficulty of
+ascertaining its location; for had we not been informed that here stood
+the town of Troy, we should have passed through this, as we did through
+many others, without ever suspecting the fact. Town-making is quite a
+speculation in the western country; and the first thing a man does after
+purchasing a few hundred acres of ground, is to "lay off a town lot:" this
+causes the maps to be studded with little circular dots, and great big
+names attached to them, which would lead one to suppose the population to
+be much greater than it is in reality.
+
+From Edwardsville, we proceeded by Ripley and Greenville, to Vandalia, the
+seat of government of the state.
+
+The prairies had lost much of the brilliant green colour which they
+possessed when we before crossed them, and they were now assuming rather a
+burnt appearance. Towards the close of autumn the grass generally becomes
+so dry as to be easily ignited, which formerly took place by accident, or
+otherwise, almost every year. The sight must be grand indeed; and we
+almost regretted that we were not so fortunate as to be in danger of being
+burnt alive--the sight would be worth the risk. There is a penalty
+attached to the firing of the woods or prairies, as the plantations are
+now becoming too numerously scattered over the country, and property is
+likely to be injured by these conflagrations.
+
+Towards the latter end of October, the season peculiar to this country,
+denominated the "Indian summer," commences, and lasts for some weeks. At
+this period, the atmosphere is suffused with a vapour which at a distance
+has the appearance of smoke, arising as it were from fires in the forest.
+The air is always calm and mild on those days, and the sun's disk assumes
+a broad, reddish appearance.
+
+Vandalia is the capital of Illinois, and is seated on the Kaskaskia river,
+which is only navigable to this point during the "freshets" in autumn and
+spring. The positions of the capitals are chosen for their centrality
+alone, and not with reference to any local advantages they may possess.
+
+Illinois is a free state, and its constitution is but a counterpart of
+those of Ohio and Indiana. The extent is 380 miles from north to south,
+and about 140 miles from east to west: area, 52,000 square miles, or
+33,280,000 acres. The population in 1810, was 12,282; in 1820, 55,211:
+white males, 29,401; white females, 24,387; slaves, 917; militia in 1821,
+2,031. The present population is, according to the last census, 157,575.
+The increase within the last ten years has been nearly 186 per cent.
+
+This state is better circumstanced than any other in the west. It is
+bounded on the north by the north-west territory; on the south by the
+Ohio; on the east by the Wabash and Lake Michigan; and on the west by the
+Mississippi. The Illinois river is navigable at almost all seasons to very
+nearly its head waters; and by means of a very short portage a
+communication is established between it and Lake Michigan. A canal is
+contemplated between this lake and the Wabash.
+
+The heath-hen (_tetrao cupido_), or as it is here called, the
+'Prairie-hen,' abounds on the prairies, particularly in the neighbourhood
+of barrens. This species of grouse, I believe, is not to be met with in
+Europe; nor has it been accurately described by any ornithologist before
+Wilson. One habit of the male of this bird is remarkable: at the season of
+incubation, the cocks assemble every morning just before day-break,
+outside the wood, and there exercise themselves tilting until the sun
+appears, when they disperse. Hunters have not failed to note the
+circumstance, and take advantage of it.
+
+We were frequently amused with the movements of the "Turkey buzzard"
+(_vultur aura_). This bird is well known in the southern and western
+states; and in the former is considered of so much utility that a penalty
+is inflicted on any person who may wantonly destroy it. It is perfectly
+harmless, never attacking even the smallest living animal, and seems
+always to prefer carrion when in a state of putrefaction. Except when
+rising from the ground, the buzzard never flaps its wings, but literally
+floats through the atmosphere, forming graceful ogees.
+
+During our journeys across Illinois, we passed several large bodies of
+settlers on their way to Sangamon and Morgan counties in that state. These
+counties are situated on the Illinois river, and are said to be fertile
+tracts. The mass of those persons were Georgians, Virginians, and
+Kentuckians, whose comparative poverty rendered their residence in slave
+states unpleasant.
+
+Perhaps there is nothing more remarkable in the character of the Americans
+than the indifference with which they leave their old habitations,
+friends, and relations. Each individual is taught to depend mainly on his
+own exertions, and therefore seldom expects or requires extraordinary
+assistance from any man. Attachments seldom exist here beyond that of
+ordinary acquaintances--these are easily found wherever one may go,
+arising from a variety of circumstances connected with their institutions
+and their necessities; and thus one of the great objections that present
+themselves to change with Europeans scarcely exists here. Observe, I apply
+this remark more particularly to the western and southern states; for the
+eastern states being longer settled and more thickly populated, these
+feelings, although they exist, yet they do so in a more modified degree.
+
+The appearance presented by the forests at this season is very
+beautiful--the trees are covered with leaves of almost every colour, from
+bright crimson to nearly snow-white; the admixture of green, brown,
+yellow, scarlet, &c., such as is almost peculiar to an American forest,
+produces a very pleasing combination.
+
+We again reached Albion, and retraced our steps from thence to Harmony,
+where we deposited our friend B----; and after having remained there for a
+few days to refresh ourselves and horse, set forward for Ohio. The weather
+had now become unfavourable, and the frequent rains and high winds were
+shaking the leaves down in myriads--the entire of our journey through
+Indiana being across forests, we were under one constant shower of leaves
+from Harmony to Cincinnati.
+
+One day while getting our horse fed at a tavern in Indiana, the following
+conversation took place between the persons there assembled. We were
+sitting at the door, surrounded by captains, lawyers, and squires, when
+one of the gentlemen demanded of another if there had not been a "gouging
+scrape" at the "Colonel's tavern" the evening before. He replied in the
+affirmative; and after having related the cause of quarrel, and said that
+the lie had been given, he continued, "the judge knocked the major right
+over, and jumped on to him in double quick time--they had it rough and
+tumble for about ten minutes--Lord J---s Alm----y!--as pretty a scrape as
+ever you _see'd_--the judge is a wonderfully lovely fellow." Then followed
+a description of the divers punishments inflicted by the combatants on
+each other--the major had his eye nearly "gouged" out, and the judge his
+chin almost bitten off. During the recital, the whole party was convulsed
+with laughter--in which we joined most heartily.
+
+We of course returned by a different route through Indiana, passing from
+Princeton to Portersville, and from thence through Paoli, Salem, and New
+Lexington, to Madison. The country about Madison is hilly and broken,
+which makes travelling tedious in the extreme. From the mouth of the Big
+Miami to Blue river, a range of hills runs parallel to the Ohio,
+alternately approaching to within a few perches of the river, and receding
+to a distance of one to two miles. Below Blue river the hills disappear,
+and the land becomes level and heavily timbered. There is also another
+range of hills, extending from the Falls of Ohio to the Wabash in a
+south-westerly direction, which are called the "knobs:" to the west of
+these are the "flats;" and from the Wabash to lake Michigan the country is
+champaign.
+
+Indianopolis is the capital of Indiana, and is seated on the White river.
+This state averages about 270 miles from north to south, and 144 miles
+from east to west: area, 37,000 square miles, or 23,680,000 acres. The
+population in 1810, was 24,520--in 1820, 147,178: white males, 79,919;
+white females, 69,107; slaves, 190; militia in 1821, 14,990. The present
+population is 341,582.
+
+Vast quantities of hogs are bred in the state of Indiana, and are suffered
+to rove at large in the forests in search of mast. They are in general
+perfectly wild, and when encountered suddenly bristle up like an enraged
+porcupine. Their legs are long; bodies thin; and tail lengthy and
+straight. I was informed that if one of those animals be wounded, its
+screams will draw an immense concourse of its brethren around it, and that
+the situation of a person under these circumstances, is by no means void
+of danger; as they will not fail to attack him _en masse_. We were once
+very nigh getting into a scrape of this description. Driving along through
+the forest, we had to pass a tract covered with a thick growth of
+brushwood--my friend seeing something stirring among the bushes, drew up,
+and taking it for a deer, called out to me to fire--I stood up in the
+vehicle, and levelled where I saw the movement, when, lo! out starts a
+bristling hog, with a grunt just in time to escape with a whole skin.
+
+One night having been accidently separated from my fellow-traveller, I had
+to stay in a miserable-looking hut close to a creek, the habitation of a
+backwoodsman. This person's appearance was extremely unprepossessing. The
+air of ferocity and wildness which characterized his countenance, added to
+his unhealthy, cadaverous aspect, would have been sufficient in any other
+country to make one feel unpleasant at passing the night alone under his
+roof. He resided in this unhealthy situation, because the land was
+extremely fertile; but stated that every fall some one of his family was
+ill, and none of them enjoyed good health. Now when we summed up the
+consequent loss of labour incident to ill health, the balance of profit
+seemed to be greatly against bottom land, and much in favour of the
+healthful prairies.
+
+The farmers use, almost exclusively, the sugar of the maple (_acer
+saccharinum_) which they manufacture themselves. The space in which a
+number of these trees are found, they call a "sugar camp." The process of
+manufacturing is as follows:--After the first frost, the trees are tapped,
+by perforating the trunk in an ascending direction. A spout of alder is
+inserted in the perforation, and the sap drips through this conduit into a
+trough of wood. The sap is then boiled with a spoonful of slacked lime,
+the white of an egg or two, and about a pint of milk, to every fifteen
+gallons. An ordinary tree commonly gives four pounds of good coarse brown
+sugar, which when refined can be made equal to superior lump sugar.
+
+A great portion of the roads through which we passed were mere horse
+paths, full of stumps, with shrubs entangled across them so thickly, that
+we were often obliged to dismount in order to cut away part of the
+impediment. Large trees which have fallen across the road, frequently
+intercept your passage, and you have no alternative but to lift the wheels
+of the vehicle over them.
+
+As we approached Cincinnati the difficulty of travelling became greatly
+augmented. The rains had cut up the roads into ravines, sometimes full
+three feet in depth, which, added to the clayey nature of the soil,
+completely exhausted the horse, and rendered him incapable of proceeding
+faster than a slow walk, even with the empty carriage.
+
+There are a number of Baptists residing at Cincinnati, who frequently
+entertain the inhabitants with public baptisms in the Ohio river. At one
+of those ceremonies, about this time, rather a ludicrous occurrence took
+place. The baptizing preacher stands up to his middle in the water, and
+the person to be baptized is led to him by another preacher. On this
+occasion the officiating clergyman was rather a slight man, and the lady
+to be baptized was extremely large and corpulent--he took her by the
+hands to perform the immersion, but notwithstanding his most strenuous
+exertions, he was thrown off his centre. She finding him yield, held
+still harder, until they both sowsed completely under the water, where
+they lay floundering and struggling for some time, amidst the shouts and
+laughter of the multitude assembled on shore. At length their brethren
+extricated them from this perilous situation.
+
+FOOTNOTES:
+
+[8] M. Duponceau adduces the following examples: "In the Arancanian
+language the word '_idnancloclavin_' means 'I do not wish to eat with
+him.' There is a similar verb in the Delaware tongue--'_n'schingiwipona_,'
+which means 'I do not like to eat with him.' To which may be added another
+example in the latter tongue--'_machtitschwanne_,'--this must be
+translated 'a cluster of islands with channels every way, so that it is
+in no place shut up, or impassable for craft.' This term is applied to the
+islands in the bay of New York."
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER VII.
+
+
+The weather having become cold and disagreeable towards the latter end of
+December, I set out for New Orleans. The larger class of steam-boats lay
+then at Shippingsport, immediately below the falls of Ohio, the river not
+being sufficiently high to enable them to pass over those rapids. Boats
+drawing from nineteen to twenty-six inches water can almost at all seasons
+ply on the Upper Ohio, and during the periods that the large boats are
+detained below the Falls, they are constantly employed in transporting
+produce, intended for the markets on the Mississippi, to Louisville, from
+whence it is drayed round to Shippingsport and re-shipped. Flat-boats are
+also employed for this purpose, and they are preferred, as they pass over
+the Falls, and thus land-carriage is avoided.
+
+Louisville is the chief town of Jefferson county, in Kentucky, and at
+present it is estimated to contain about 12,000 inhabitants, including
+slaves and free people of colour. The store-keepers here are more wealthy
+than those of Cincinnati, and their manners less disagreeable. The
+inhabitants of the latter town being mostly from the New England states,
+have in their dealings and manners that dry shrewdness which is the true
+Yankee characteristic. There are also located in Cincinnati some Irish
+pedlars, who have by all manner of means acquired wealth, and are now the
+"biggest bugs"[9] in the place.
+
+The public buildings of Louisville are few, and the streets are laid out
+in the usual style, crossing each other at right angles. It contains a
+few good brick dwelling-houses, and a number of excellent hack-carriages
+are stationed near the steam-boat landing. A canal round the Falls, from
+Beargrass-creek to Shippingsport, is being constructed, which will enable
+steam-boats of the largest tonnage to pass through; and thus it will open
+an uninterrupted intercourse between the Upper and Lower Ohio, and the
+Mississippi. The length of this canal is about two and a half miles, and
+the original estimate was 200,000 dollars, but this sum has been found
+insufficient.
+
+At Louisville I took a berth on board a boat for New Orleans. The
+steam-boats on the Mississippi are large, and splendidly appointed; the
+interior has more the appearance of a well fitted up dining-room than the
+cabin of a boat. The charge is twenty-five dollars, for which you are
+found in every thing except liquors. Meats, fowls, vegetables, fruits,
+preserves, &c., are served in abundance, and of the very best quality.
+Here you may see tradesmen, "nigger traders," farmers, "congress men,"
+captains, generals, and judges, all seated at the same table, in true
+republican simplicity. There is no appearance of awkwardness in the
+behaviour of the humblest person you see seated at those tables; and
+indeed their general good conduct is remarkable--I mean when contrasted
+with that of the same class in England. The truth is, the tradesman here
+finds himself of some importance in the scale of society, and endeavours
+to show that he is fully qualified to be seated at the same table, _en
+passant_, with the most wealthy citizen. No doubt the higher classes have
+some of that high polish rubbed off by these occasional contacts with
+their less-civilized fellow citizens; but the humbler classes decidedly
+gain what _they_ lose. All dress well, and are _American_ gentlemen.
+
+The Ohio is formed by the junction of the Alleghany and Monongahela rivers
+at Pittsburg, that town being seated in the fork--its breadth there, is
+between eight and nine hundred yards. From the mouths of those two rivers
+it narrows and deepens for some distance; but afterwards, from the
+accession of the many tributary streams by which it is supplied, gradually
+becomes wider and deeper, until it empties itself into the Mississippi.
+The length of the Ohio, following its meanders, is about 950 miles, and it
+may be said to be navigable almost the entire year, as the water must be
+unusually low when the smaller steam-boats cannot ply to Pittsburg. The
+character of this river is somewhat peculiar. But for the improvements on
+the banks, when you have seen six or eight miles of this stream, you are
+acquainted with the remainder as far as the Falls--that is to say, any
+variety that may be in the scenery will occur in any given six miles from
+Pittsburg to that point. Below Louisville there are one or two rocky
+bluffs, and the face of the country is somewhat different. The channel of
+the Upper Ohio lies between hills, which frequently approach the
+_mamélle_ form, and are covered with a heavy growth of timber. Where the
+hills or bluffs do not rise immediately from the river, but recede some
+distance, the space between the river and the hill is called bottom land,
+from the circumstance of its being overflown annually; or having at some
+former period formed part of the river's bed, which is indicated by the
+nature of the soil. The bluffs and bottoms invariably alternate; and when
+you have bluffs on one side, you are sure to have bottom on the other. The
+windings are extremely uniform, with few exceptions, curving in a
+serpentine form in so regular a manner, that the Indians always calculated
+the distance by the number of bends.
+
+"The Falls" are improperly so termed, as this obstruction is nothing more
+than a gradual descent for a distance of about a mile and a half, where
+the water, forcing its way over a rugged rocky bottom, presents the
+appearance of a rapid. Below this the country is of various
+aspects--hills, bottom-land, and high rocky bluffs; and towards the mouth,
+cotton-wood trees, (_populus angulata_), and cane brakes, are interspersed
+along the banks. The junction of these two noble rivers, the Ohio and
+Mississippi, is really a splendid sight--the scenery is picturesque, and
+the water at the point of union is fully two miles broad.
+
+The Mississippi[10] is in length, from its head waters to the _balize_ in
+the gulf of Mexico, about two thousand three hundred miles, and flows
+through an immense variety of country. The section through which it
+passes, before its junction with the Missouri, is represented as being
+elegantly diversified with woodlands, prairies, and rich bottoms, and the
+banks are lined with a luxuriant growth of plants and flowers. Before
+reaching the Missouri, the water of the Mississippi is perfectly limpid;
+but, from the mouth of that river it becomes turgid and muddy--flows
+through a flat, inundated country, and seems more like an immense flood,
+than an old and deep-channelled river. As far as great things can be
+compared to small, it much resembles, within its banks, the Rhone when
+flooded, as it sweeps through the department of Vaucluse, after its
+junction with the Saone.
+
+From St. Louis to New Orleans, a distance of twelve hundred miles, there
+are but six elevated points--the four Chickesaw bluffs, the Iron banks,
+and the Walnut hills. Numerous islands are interspersed through this
+river; and from the mouth of the Ohio, tall cotton-wood trees and
+cane-brakes grow in immense quantities along the banks; the latter, being
+evergreens, have a pleasing effect in the winter season. The windings of
+the Mississippi are, like those of the Ohio, constant, but not so
+serpentine, and some of them are of immense magnitude. You traverse every
+point of the compass in your passage up or down: for example, there is a
+bend near _Bayou Placquamine_, the length of which by the water is upwards
+of sixty miles, and from one point to the other across the distance is but
+three.
+
+The town of "Baton Rouge" is situated about 190 miles above New Orleans,
+and contains a small garrison;--the esplanade runs down to the
+water's-edge, and the whole has a pretty effect. Here the sugar
+plantations commence, and the face of the country is again changed--you
+find yourself in the regions of the south. For a distance of from
+half-a-mile to two miles back, at each side, the land is planted with
+sugar-canes, and highly cultivated. The planters' houses are tastefully
+built, surrounded by gardens full of orange-trees, flowers, and
+evergreens, presenting the idea of perpetual spring, which here is indeed
+the case. The winters are seldom more severe than a mild spring in
+England. I first came in on this region at night, at the season of
+planting, when the cast or used canes are burned in heaps on each
+plantation. The dark turgid waters--the distant fires, surrounded by
+clouds of white smoke ascending in winding columns to the skies--the
+stillness of the night, interrupted only by the occasional cry of the
+pelican or the crane, and the monotonous thumping of the steam-boat
+paddles, formed a strange combination; and had the days of witches and
+warlocks not long since passed away, one would have sworn that these
+gentry were performing incantations over the mystic cauldrons, casting
+"seven bullets," or "raising spirits from the vasty deep."
+
+The Mississippi is in few places more than from half-a-mile to a mile
+wide; and were one to judge of its magnitude by its breadth alone, a very
+erroneous estimate would be formed. It is only by contemplating the many
+vast rivers which empty themselves into the Mississippi that you can form
+a correct idea of the immense volume of water that flows through this
+channel into the Gulf of Mexico. Many of its larger tributary streams
+have the appearance of being as great as itself--the depth alone
+indicating the superiority of this mighty river over every other in
+America; and, considering its length, perhaps over any other in the world.
+
+The great valley of the Mississippi extends, in length, from the Gulf of
+Mexico to a distance of nearly 3000 miles; and is in breadth, from the
+base of the Alleghanies to the foot of the Rocky mountains, about 2,500
+miles. The soil is composed of alluvial deposits, to a depth of from
+twenty to fifty feet; and I have myself seen, near New Orleans, trees
+lying in the horizontal position six or seven feet below the surface. This
+valley has been frequently visited by earthquakes, which have sometimes
+changed part of the channel of the river, and at others formed lakes.
+Those which occurred between the years 1811 and 1813, did serious injury,
+particularly in the neighbourhood of New Madrid, near the west bank,
+below the mouth of the Ohio. At several points the bank is sunk eight or
+ten feet below the surface of the adjacent ground, with the trees
+remaining upright as before.
+
+New Orleans is seated on the south-east bank of the Mississippi; and,
+following the sinuosities of the current, about 109 miles from the Gulf of
+Mexico. The river takes here a right-angular sweep, and the city proper is
+built on the exterior point of the bend, the _fauxbourgs_ extending at
+each side along the banks. At high water the river rises three feet above
+any part of the city; consequently, were it not for levées that have been
+constructed here, and also along the banks of the river for more than a
+hundred miles, at both sides, above and below, the whole country would be
+periodically inundated. The fall from the levée to Bayou St. John, which
+communicates with _Lac Pontchartrain_, is about thirty feet, and the
+distance one mile. This fall is certainly inconsiderable; but I apprehend
+that it would be sufficient to drain the streets effectually, if proper
+attention were directed to that object.
+
+The city extends only half-a-mile back, and, including the _fauxbourgs_,
+about two miles along the river. The streets, being only partially paved,
+can never be perfectly cleaned, and stagnant water remains in the kennels
+at all seasons; this and the exhalations from the swamps in warm weather,
+produce that pestilential scourge with which the place is annually
+afflicted. The mortality here last season (the autumn of 1829) has been
+variously stated in the public prints at from five to seven thousand, who
+died of the yellow fever in the space of about ten weeks. This statement,
+however, is erroneous; as, from information which I received from the
+sexton of the American grave-yard, and from the number of fresh graves
+which I saw there, I am inclined to think that the total amount falls
+short of 2500, out of a resident population of less than 40,000 souls.
+About 700 were buried in the American grave-yard, and perhaps double that
+number in that of the French.
+
+The port of New Orleans presents the most extraordinary medley of any port
+in the world. Craft of every possible variety may be seen moored along the
+levées, and the markets and adjacent streets crowded with people of almost
+every nation in Europe, Africa, and America, who create a frightful
+confusion of tongues. A particular part of the quay is appropriated to
+each description of craft, and a penalty is enforced for any deviation
+from port regulations. The upper part is occupied with flat-boats, arks,
+peeroges, rafts, keel-boats, canoes, and steam-boats; and below these are
+stationed schooners, cutters, brigs, ships, &c., in regular succession.
+The levée is almost constantly filled with merchandize; and the scene of
+bustle and confusion which is exhibited here during the early part of the
+day, fully proves the large amount of commercial intercourse which this
+city enjoys.
+
+When Louisiana was ceded to the United States, in 1803, Orleans was then
+entirely occupied by Creole-French and Spanish, consequently the majority
+of the habitations and public buildings, are in the French and Spanish
+style. The cathedral, which presents a handsome façade of about seventy
+feet, the town-hall, and courts, occupy one side of the _place
+d'armes,_--these, with the American theatre, the _théâtre d'Orleans,_ or
+French opera house, the hospital, and three or four churches, are the only
+public buildings in the city. The houses are all flat-roofed, and those in
+the back streets and fauxbourgs are seldom more than one story high; the
+practice of building houses in this manner was pursued in order to avoid
+injury from tornadoes, which occasionally visit the valley of the
+Mississippi; latterly they have not been of frequent occurrence, although
+when they do arise, they are extremely violent. The town of Urbana, in
+Ohio, this year (1830) has been nearly destroyed by a visitation of this
+nature.
+
+Pharo-banks, roulette-tables, and gambling of all kinds, are publicly
+permitted; but the proprietor of each establishment pays a tax of 5000
+dollars per annum. The _théâtre d'Orleans_ on Sunday evenings, is
+generally crowded with beautiful French women. Every night during the
+winter season there is a _bal paré et masqué_, and occasionally "quadroon
+balls," which are attended by the young men of the city and their _chères
+amies_ quadroons, who are decidedly the finest women in the country, being
+well formed, and graceful in their carriage. The Louisianians are
+prohibited by law from marrying with quadroons, although this _caste_ is
+free, and many of them have been educated in France, and are highly
+accomplished.
+
+In the south, slavery exists in its most unqualified condition, wanting
+those milder modifications which serve to dress and decorate the person of
+this ugly fiend. Here may be seen hundreds of animals of our own genus
+exposed in the public bazaars for sale, and examined with as much care,
+and precisely in the same manner, as we examine horses. In some of the
+slave states the law prohibits the separation of families, but this
+prohibition is little attended to, as the slave has no possibility of
+coming in contact with any dispensers of justice but the magistrates of
+the state, who, being slave-holders themselves, instead of redressing his
+grievances, would be more likely to order him a lashing, for presuming to
+complain. Many melancholy instances occur here, which clearly illustrate
+the evils of slavery and its demoralizing influence on the human
+character. The arguments against slavery are deduced from self-evident
+propositions, and must carry conviction to every well organized mind; yet
+from their application being of too general a character, they seldom
+interest the feelings, and in the end leave less impression than the
+simple statement of a particular occurrence. During my stay, a Doctor
+---- came down the river with thirty slaves, among which were an old negro
+and negress, each between sixty and seventy years of age; this unfortunate
+old woman had borne twenty-one children, all of whom had been at different
+times sold in the Orleans market, and carried into other states, and into
+distant parts of Louisiana. The Doctor said, in order to induce her to
+leave home quietly, that he was bringing her into Louisiana for the
+purpose of placing her with some of her children--"and now," says the old
+negress, "aldo I suckle my massa at dis breast, yet now he sell me to
+sugar planter, after he sell all my children away from me." This gentleman
+was a strict Methodist, or "saint," and is, I was informed, much esteemed
+by the preachers of that persuasion, because of his liberal contributions
+to their support.
+
+Negresses, when young and likely, are often employed as wet nurses by
+white people, as also by either the planter or his friends, to administer
+to their sensual desires--this frequently as a matter of speculation, for
+if the offspring, a mulatto, be a handsome female, from 800 to 1000
+dollars may be obtained for her in the Orleans market.[11] It is an
+occurrence of no uncommon nature to see the Christian father sell his own
+daughter, and the brother his own sister, by the same father. Slaves do
+not marry, but pair at discretion; and the more children they produce, the
+better for their masters.
+
+On the Levée at New Orleans, are constantly exhibited specimens of the
+white man's humanity, in the persons of runaway slaves. When such an
+unfortunate negro is retaken, a log is chained to one of his legs, and
+round his neck is placed an iron collar, from which project three sharp
+prongs more than a foot in length each.
+
+The evils of this infernal system are beginning to re-act upon the
+Christians, who are latterly kept in a constant state of alarm, fearing
+the number and disposition of the blacks, which threaten at no far distant
+period to overwhelm the south with some dreadful calamity.[12] Three
+incendiary fires took place at Orleans, during the month I remained in
+that city, by which several thousand bales of cotton were consumed. The
+condition of the slaves on the sugar or rice plantations, is truly
+wretched. They are ill-fed, ill-clad, and worked in gangs under the
+superintendence of a driver, who is armed with a long whip, which he uses
+at discretion; and it is a fact, well known to persons who have visited
+slave countries, that punishments are more frequently inflicted to gratify
+the private pique or caprice of the driver, than for crime or neglect of
+duty.
+
+In the agricultural states, slave labour is found to be altogether
+unproductive, which causes this market to be inundated:--within the last
+two months, 5000 negros have been sold here. The state legislature has
+just passed a law, regulating the introduction of slaves, and commanding
+all free people of colour, who were not residents previous to 1825, to
+quit Louisiana in the space of six months. Georgia has enacted a law to
+the same effect, with the addition of making penal, _the teaching of
+people of colour to read or write_. The liberty of the press is by no
+means tolerated in the slave states, as both judges and juries will always
+decide according to the local laws, although totally at variance with the
+constitution. W.L. Garrison, of Baltimore, one of the editors of a
+publication entitled, "The Genius of Universal Emancipation," is now
+suffering fine and imprisonment for an alleged libel, at the suit of a
+slavite; and a law has been passed by the legislature of Louisiana,
+suppressing the Orleans journal called "The Liberal." This latter act is
+not only contrary to the constitution of the United States, but also in
+direct opposition to the constitution of Louisiana.[13]
+
+The free states in their own defence have been obliged to prohibit people
+of colour settling within their boundaries. Where then can the unfortunate
+African find a retreat? He must not stay in this country, and he cannot
+go to Africa; and although the British government are encouraging the
+settlement of negros in the Canadas, yet latterly, neither the Canadians
+nor the Americans like that project. The most probable finale to this
+drama will be, that the Christians must at their own expense ship them to
+Liberia (for Hayti is inundated), and there throw them on barren shores to
+die of starvation, or to be massacred by the savages!
+
+Miss Wright lately passed through New Orleans with thirty negros which she
+had manumitted, and was then going to establish them at Hayti. These
+slaves had been purchased at reduced prices, from persons friendly to
+their emancipation, and were kept by Miss Wright until their labour,
+allowing them a fair remuneration, amounted to the prime outlay.
+
+Were it not for the danger that might be apprehended from the congregation
+of large bodies of negros in particular states or districts, their
+liberation would be attended with little inconvenience _to the public_,
+for their labour might be as effectually secured, and made quite as
+profitable, under a system of well-regulated emancipation. We need only
+refer to England for a case in point:--after the conquest and total
+subjugation of the people of that country by the ancestors of the
+nobility, the gallant Normans, the feudal system was introduced, and
+remained in full vigour for some centuries. But, as the country became
+more populous, and the attendance of the knights and barons in parliament
+became more frequent and necessary, we find villanage gradually fall into
+disrepute. The last laws regulating this species of slavery were passed in
+the reign of Henry VII; and towards the end of Elizabeth's reign, although
+the statutes remained unrepealed, as they do still, yet there were no
+persons in the state to whom the laws applied. It cannot be denied that
+the labour of the poor English is as effectually secured under the present
+arrangements, as it could possibly be under the system of villanage.
+
+I look upon slaves as public securities; and I am of opinion, that a
+legislature's enacting laws for their emancipation, is as flagrant a piece
+of injustice as would be the cancelling of the public debt. Slave-holders
+are only share-holders; and philanthropists should never talk of
+liberating slaves, more than cancelling public securities, without being
+prepared to indemnify those persons who unfortunately have their capital
+invested in this species of property.
+
+As many varieties of countenance are to be found among blacks as among
+whites. There are Africans in this city who have really handsome features,
+and whose proportions are just, with strong and finely rounded limbs. On
+becoming more intimate with the general character of the Africans, I like
+it better: I find they steal, cheat, and hate their masters; and if they
+were to do otherwise I should think them unworthy of liberty--they justly
+consider whatever they take to be but a portion of their own. The policy
+is to keep them as much as possible in utter ignorance--that their
+indignation should therefore develope itself in the most degrading manner,
+is not surprising.
+
+There are two public schools established at New Orleans, which are
+supported out of the fund arising from five gaming-houses, they paying a
+tax of 25,000 dollars per annum. These schools are conducted on the
+Lancastrian system, each having a Principal and a Professor, and the
+studies are divided into daily sessions. The morning session is devoted to
+reading, spelling, arithmetic, and English grammar; commences at nine
+A.M., and closes at one P.M. The evening session commences at three, and
+ends at five o'clock; and is devoted to penmanship, geography, and the
+French language. This is the arrangement of the English primary school,
+which is kept in the Old Poydras House, Poydras-street, in the upper part
+of the city; and is called the Upper Primary School, to distinguish it
+from the French establishment, which is kept in the lower part of the
+city. The English school has an English principal, and a French professor;
+and the French school, a French principal and an English professor. Dr.
+Kinnicutt, the principal of the Upper Primary School, is a gentleman of
+considerable ability, and to his friendly politeness I am indebted for the
+above information.
+
+The ravages of the yellow fever in New Orleans are immense; but I am
+credibly informed that many deaths occur here from neglect after the fever
+has subsided, when the patient is in a totally debilitated condition,
+incapable of affording himself the slightest assistance. Orleans is
+generally crowded with strangers, who are most susceptible to the
+epidemic; and it is decidedly the interest of persons keeping hotels and
+boarding-houses that such guests should give up the ghost, for in that
+case their loose cash falls into the hands of the proprietor. I do not
+mean to insinuate that a knife is passed across the throat of the
+patient; but merely that it is the opinion of physicians, and some of the
+most respectable people of the city, that every _facility_ is afforded
+strangers to die, and that in many cases they actually die of gross
+neglect.
+
+The wealthy merchants live well, keep handsome establishments, and good
+wines. The Sardanapalian motto, "Laugh, sing, dance, and be merry," seems
+to be universally adopted in this "City of the Plague." The planters' and
+merchants' villas immediately in the vicinity are extremely tasteful, and
+are surrounded by large parterres filled with plantain, banana, palm,
+orange, and rose trees. On the whole, were it not for its unhealthiness,
+Orleans would be a most desirable residence, and the largest city in the
+United States, as it is most decidedly the best circumstanced in a
+commercial point of view.
+
+The question of the purchase of Texas from the Mexican government has been
+widely mooted throughout the country, and in the slave districts it has
+many violent partizans. The acquisition of this immense tract of fertile
+country would give an undue preponderance to the slave states, and this
+circumstance alone has prevented its purchase from being universally
+approved of; for the grasping policy of the American system seems to
+animate both congress and legislatures in all their acts. The Americans
+commenced their operations in true Yankee style. The first settlement made
+was by a person named Austin, under a large grant from the Mexican
+government. Then "pioneers," under the denomination of "explorers," began
+gradually to take possession of the country, and carry on commercial
+negotiations without the assent of the government. This was followed by
+the public prints taking up the question, and setting forth the immense
+value of the country, and the consequent advantages that would arise to
+the United States from its acquisition. The settlers excited movements,
+and caused discontent and dissatisfaction among the legitimate owners; and
+at their instigation, insurrections of the Indians took place, which
+greatly embarrassed the government. At this stage of the affair, Mr.
+Poinsett, the American minister, commenced his diplomatic manoeuvres in
+the city of Mexico--fomenting disaffection, encouraging parties, and
+otherwise interfering in the internal concerns of the country. He appears,
+however, to have carried his intrigues beyond the bounds of discretion, as
+they were discovered; and he consequently became so obnoxious to the
+government and people of Mexico, that Jackson found it necessary to recall
+him, and send a Colonel Butler in his stead, commissioned to offer
+5,000,000 dollars for the province of Texas.
+
+Mr. Poinsett's object in acting as he did, was that he might embarrass the
+government, and take advantage of some favourable crisis to drive a
+profitable bargain; or that, during some convulsion that would be likely
+to lead to a change, the expiring executive would be glad to grasp at his
+offer, and thereby a claim would be established on the country, which the
+United States would not readily relinquish. The policy of the British
+government suffering the Mexican republic to be bullied out of this
+province would be very questionable indeed, as the North Americans command
+at present quite enough of the Gulf of Mexico, and their overweening
+inclination to acquire extent of territory would render their proximity to
+the West Indian Islands rather dangerous; however, it would be much more
+advantageous to have the Mexicans as neighbours than the people of the
+United States.
+
+The Mexican secretary of state, Don Lucas Alaman, in a very able and
+elaborate report made to Congress, sets forth the ambitious designs of the
+American government, and the proceedings of its agents with regard to this
+province. He also recommends salutary measures for the purpose of
+retaining possession and preventing further encroachments; which the
+Congress seems to have taken into serious consideration, as very important
+resolutions have been adopted. The Congress has decreed, that hereafter
+the Texas is to be governed as a colony; and, except by special commission
+of the Governor, the immigration of persons _from the United States_, is
+strictly forbidden. So much at present for the efforts of the Americans to
+get possession of the Texas; and if the British government be alive to the
+interests of the nation, they never shall;--for, entertaining the hostile
+feelings that they do towards the British empire, their closer connexion
+with the West Indies would certainly not be desirable.
+
+FOOTNOTES:
+
+[9] A "big bug," is a great man, in the phraseology of the western
+country.
+
+[10] In the Indian tongue, _Meschacebe_--"old father of waters."
+
+[11] I have been informed by a gentleman who has resided in the English
+West Indian Islands, that he has known instances there of highly educated
+white women, young and unmarried, making black mothers suckle puppy
+lap-dogs for them.
+
+[12] Previous to my leaving America, a most extensive and well-organised
+conspiracy was discovered at Charleston, and several of the conspirators
+were executed. The whole black population of that town were to have risen
+on a certain day, and put their oppressors to death.
+
+[13]
+
+Extract from "The Liberal" of 19th March, 1830:--
+
+    "Constitution des Etats unis.
+
+    "Art. 1 er. des Amendments.
+
+    "Le Congrés n'aura pas le droit de faire aucune loi pour abreger
+    la liberté de la parole ou de la presse, &c.
+
+    "Constitution de L'Etat de la Louisiane.
+
+    "Art. 6, v. 21.
+
+    "La presse sera libre à tous ceux qui entreprendront d'examiner les
+    procédures de la legislature ou aucune branche du gouvernement; et
+    aucune loi sera jamais faite pour abreger ses droits, &c.
+
+    "Loi faite par la legislature de l'Etat de la Louisiane.
+
+    "Acte pour punir les crime y mentionés et pour d'autre objets.
+
+    "Sect. 1ére. Il et décrété, &c. Que quiconque écrira, imprimera,
+    publiera, ou répandra toute pièce ayant une tendance à produire du
+    mécontentement parmi la population de couleur libre, ou de
+    l'insubordination parmi les esclaves de cet Etat, sera sur
+    conviction du fait, pardevant toute cour de juridiction competante
+    condamné à l'emprisonnement aux travaux forcés pour la vie ou à la
+    peine de mort, à la discretion de la cour!!!!
+
+    "Sec. 2. Il est de plus décrété, que quiconque se servira
+    d'expressions dans un discours public prononcé au barreau, au barre
+    des Judges, au Théâtre, en chaire, ou dans tout lieu quelconque;
+    quiconque se servira d'expressions dans des conversations ou des
+    discours particulars, ou fera usage des signes ou fera des actions
+    ayant une tendance à produire du mecontentement parmi la
+    population de couleur libre ou à exciter à l'insubordination parmi
+    les esclaves de cet Etat; quiconque donnera sciemment la main à
+    apporter dans cet Etat aucun papier, brochure ou livre ayant la
+    même tendance que dessus, sera, sur conviction, pardevant toute
+    cour de juridiction competante, condamné à l'emprisonnement aux
+    travaux forcés pour un terme qui ne sera pas moindre de trois ans
+    et qui n'excédera pas vingt un ans, ou à la peine de mort à la
+    discretion de la cour!!!!
+
+    "Sec. 3. Il est de plus décrété, que seront considerées comme
+    illegales toute réunions de negres; mulatres ou autres personnes
+    de couleur libre dans le temples, les ecoles ou autres lieux pour
+    y apprendre à lire ou à ecrire: et les personnes qui se réuniront
+    ainsi; sur conviction du fait, pardevant toute cour de juridiction
+    competente, seront emprisonneés pour un terme qui ne sera pas
+    moindre d'un mois et qui n'excédera pas douze mois, à la
+    discrétion!!!!
+
+    "Sec. 4. Il est de plus décrété, que toute personne dans cet état
+    qui enseignera, permettra qu'on enseigne ou fera enseigner à lire
+    ou à ecrire à un esclave quelconque, sera, sur conviction du fait,
+    pardevant toute cour de juridiction competante, condamné à un
+    imprisonnement qui ne sera pas moindre d'un mois et n'excédera pas
+    douze mois!!!!"
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+    From the remarks of the same journal of the 23rd March, it would
+    appear that the third and fourth sections of this most enlightened
+    and Christian act have been rejected, as being "_too bad_."
+
+    "Nous avons lu la publication officielle de l'acte intitulé: 'acte
+    pour empêcher l'introduction des personnes de couleur libres dans
+    cet Etat, et pour d'autres objets.' Il est trop long pour que nous
+    puissons le publier, nous en donnons l'extrait suivant.
+
+    "1. Toute personne de couleur libre, qui sera rentreé dans cet
+    état depuis 1825, sera forcée d'en sortir.
+
+    "2. Aucune personne, de couleur libre, ne pourra à l'avenir
+    s'introduire dans cet état sous aucun pretexte quelconque.
+
+    "3. Le blanc qui aura fait circuler des écrits tendant à troubler
+    le repos public, ou censurant les actes de la legislature
+    concernant les esclaves ou les personnes de couleur libres, sera
+    puni rigoureusement.
+
+    "4. L'émancipation des esclaves est soumise à quantité de
+    formalités.
+
+    "Tous les noirs, grieffes et mulatres, au premier degré, libres,
+    sont obligés de se faire enregistrer au bureau du maire, à Nelle.
+    Orleans, ou chez les judges de paroisse dans les autres parties de
+    l'état.
+
+    "Nous voyons avec joie, que la partie du bill tendant à empêcher
+    l'instruction des personnes de couleur, a été rejeté."
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER VIII.
+
+
+Having spent a month in Orleans and the neighbouring plantations, I took
+my leave and departed for Louisville. The steam-boat in which I ascended
+the river was of the largest description, and had then on board between
+fifty and sixty cabin passengers, and nearly four hundred deck passengers.
+The former paid thirty dollars, and the latter I believe six, on this
+occasion. The deckers were provided only with an unfurnished berth. The
+steam-boats, on their passage up and down the rivers, stop at nearly all
+the towns of importance, both for the purpose of landing and receiving
+freight, which enabled me to visit most of the settlements along the
+banks.
+
+For several hundred miles from New Orleans, the trees, particularly those
+in the cypress swamps, are covered with tellandsea, or Spanish moss, which
+hangs down from the branches so thickly, as to give a most gloomy aspect
+to the forest. It is found to be a good substitute for horse hair, and is
+universally used by upholsterers for stuffing mattresses, cushions, &c.
+The process of preparing it is very simple: being taken from the trees, it
+is placed in water for a few days, until the outer pellicle has rotted; it
+is then dried, when a long fibre resembling horse hair is obtained.
+
+Natchez, in the state of Mississippi, is about 300 miles above Orleans,
+and is the largest and wealthiest town on the river, from that city up to
+St. Louis. It stands on bluffs, perhaps 300 feet above the water at
+ordinary periods. It contains nearly 4000 inhabitants, and is decidedly
+the prettiest town for its dimensions in the United States. Natchez,
+although upwards of 400 miles from the sea, is considered a port; and a
+grant of 1500 dollars was made by congress for the purpose of erecting a
+light-house; the building has been raised, and stands there, a monument of
+useless expenditure. There are a number of "groggeries," stores, and other
+habitations, at the base of the bluffs, for the accommodation of
+flat-boatmen, which form a distinct town, and the place is called, in
+contradistinction to the city above, Natchez-under-the-hill. Swarms of
+unfortunate females, of every shade of colour, may be seen here sporting
+with the river navigators, and this little spot presents one continued
+scene of gaming, swearing, and rioting, from morning till night.
+
+The ravages of the yellow fever in this town are always greater in
+proportion to the population than at New Orleans; and it is a remarkable
+fact, that frequently when the fever is raging with violence in the city
+on the hill, the inhabitants below are entirely free from it. In addition
+to the exhalations from the exposed part of the river's bed, there are
+others of a still more pestilential character, which arise from stagnant
+pools at the foot of the hill. The miasmata appear to ascend until they
+reach the level of the town above, where the atmosphere being less dense,
+and perhaps precisely of their own specific gravity, they float, and
+commingle with it.
+
+The country from Baton-rouge to Vicksburg, on the walnut hills, is almost
+entirely devoted to the cultivation of cotton, the soil and climate being
+found particularly congenial to the growth of that plant. The great trade
+of Natchez is in this article. The investment of capital in the
+cultivation of cotton is extremely profitable, and a plantation
+judiciously managed seldom fails of producing an income, in a few years,
+amounting to the original outlay. Each slave is estimated to produce from
+250 to 300 dollars per annum; but of course from this are to be deducted
+the _wear and tear_ of the slave, and the casualties incident to human
+life. On sugar plantations the profit is much more on each individual; but
+the risk is greater, and the deaths are generally calculated at one-third
+of the gang in ten years: this is the cause why slaves _on sugar
+plantations_ are so miserably fed and clad, for their being rendered less
+wretched would not make them less susceptible to the epidemic. Each acre
+of well-cultivated land produces from one and a half to two bales of
+cotton, and even the first year the produce will cover the expenses. A
+planter may commence with 10,000 or 12,000 dollars, and calculate on
+certain success; but with less capital, he must struggle hard to attain
+the desired object. A sugar plantation cannot be properly conducted with
+less than 25,000 or 30,000 dollars, and the first year produces no return.
+The cotton begins to ripen in the month of October--the buds open, and the
+flowers appear. A slave can gather from 100 to 150 lbs. a day. Rice and
+tobacco are also grown in the neighbourhood of the cotton lands, but of
+course the produce is inferior to that of the West Indies.
+
+Occasionally, along the banks of the Mississippi, you see here and there
+the solitary habitation of a wood-cutter. Immense piles of wood are placed
+on the edge of the bank, for the supply of steam-boats, and perhaps a
+small corn patch may be close to the house; this however is not commonly
+the case, as the inhabitants depend on flat-boats for provisions. The
+dwelling is the rudest kind of log-house, and the outside is sometimes
+decorated with the skins of deer, bears, and other animals, hung up to
+dry. Those people are commonly afflicted with fever and ague; and I have
+seen many, particularly females, who had immense swellings or
+protuberances on their stomachs, which they denominate "ague-cakes." The
+Mississippi wood-cutters scrape together "considerable of dollars," but
+they pay dearly for it in health, and are totally cut off from the
+frequent frolics, political discussions, and elections; which last,
+especially, are a great source of amusement to the Americans, and tend to
+keep up that spirit of patriotism and nationality for which they are so
+distinguished. The excitement produced by these elections prevents the
+people falling into that ale-drinking stupidity, which characterizes the
+low English.
+
+The "freshets" in the Mississippi are always accompanied with an immense
+quantity of "drift-wood," which is swept away from the banks of the
+Missouri and Ohio; and the navigation is never totally devoid of danger,
+from the quantity of trees which settle down on the bottom of the river.
+Those trees which stand perpendicularly in the river, are called
+"planters;" those which take hold by the roots, but lie obliquely with the
+current, yielding to its pressure, appearing and disappearing alternately,
+are termed "sawyers;" and those which lie immovably fixed, in the same
+position as the "sawyers," are denominated "snags." Many boats have been
+stove in by "snags" and "sawyers," and sunk with all the passengers. At
+present there is a snag steam-boat stationed on the Mississippi, which has
+almost entirely cleared it of these obstructions. This boat consists of
+two hulks, with solid beams of timber uniting the bows. It has a most
+powerful engine; and when the crew discover a snag, which always lies with
+the stream, and is known by the ripple on the water, they run down below
+it for some distance in order to gather head-way--the boat is then run at
+it full tilt, and seldom fails of breaking off the projecting branch close
+to the trunk.
+
+We arrived, a fine morning about nine o'clock, at Memphis in Tennessee,
+and lay-to to put out freight. We had just sat down, and were regaling
+ourselves with a substantial breakfast, when one of the boilers burst,
+with an explosion that resembled the report of a cannon. The change was
+sudden and terrific. Between fifty and sixty persons were killed and
+wounded. The scene was the most horrifying that can be imagined--the dead
+were shattered to pieces, covering the decks with blood; and the dying
+suffered the most excruciating tortures, being scalded from head to foot.
+Many died within the hour; whilst others lingered until evening, shrieking
+in the most piteous manner. The persons assembled on shore displayed the
+most disgusting want of sympathy; and most of the gentlemen passengers
+took care to secure their luggage before rendering any assistance to the
+unfortunates. A medical gentleman, who happened to be on board (a Doctor
+Otis, I think, from Carolina), was an exception. This gentleman--and
+gentleman he really was, in every respect--attended with the most
+unremitting care on all the wounded without distinction. A collection was
+made by the cabin passengers, for the surviving sufferers. The wretch who
+furnished oil on the occasion, hearing of the collection, had the
+conscience to make a charge of sixty dollars, when the quantity furnished
+could not possibly have amounted to a third of that sum.
+
+The boiler recoiled, cutting away part of the bow, and the explosion blew
+up the pilot's deck, which rendered the vessel totally unfit for service.
+I remained three days at Memphis, and visited the neighbouring farms and
+plantations. Several parties of Chickesaw Indians were here, trading their
+deer and other skins with the townspeople. This tribe has a reservation
+about fifty miles back, and pursues agriculture to a considerable extent.
+After the massacre and extermination of the Natchez Indians, by the
+Christians of Louisiana, the few survivors received an asylum from the
+Chickesaws; who, notwithstanding the heavy vengeance with which they were
+threatened, could never be induced to give up the few unhappy "children of
+the Sun" who confided in their honour and generosity: the fugitives
+amalgamated with their protectors, and the Natchez are extinct.
+
+Some of the Indians here assembled, indulged immoderately in the use of
+ardent spirits, with which they were copiously supplied by the white
+people. During these drinking fits, there is always one at least of the
+party who remains sober, in order to secure the knives, &c. Hence the
+Americans derive the cant phrase of "doing the sober Indian," which they
+apply to any one of a company who will not _drink fairly_. One of the
+Indians had a pony which he wished to sell, having occasion for some
+articles, and his skins not bringing him as much as he had anticipated. A
+townsman demanded the price. The Indian put up both his hands, intimating
+that he would take ten dollars. The pony was worth double the sum; but the
+spirit of barter would not permit the white man to purchase without
+reducing the price: he offered the Indian five dollars. The Indian was
+evidently indignant, but only gave a nod of dissent. After some
+hesitation, the buyer, finding that he could not reduce the price, said
+he would give the ten dollars. The Indian then held up his fingers, and
+counted fifteen. The buyer demurred at the advance; but the Indian was
+inexorable, and at length intimated that he would not trade at all. Such
+is the character of the Aborigines--they never calculate on _your_
+necessities, but only on their own; and when they are in want of money,
+demand the lowest possible price for the article they may wish to
+sell--but if they see you want to take further advantage of them, they
+invariably raise the price or refuse to traffic.
+
+Hunting in Tennessee is commonly practised on horseback, with dogs. When
+the party comes upon a deer-track, it separates, and hunters are posted,
+at intervals of about a furlong, on the path which the deer when started
+is calculated to take. Two or three persons then set forward with the
+dogs, always coming up against the wind, and start the deer, when the
+sentinels at the different points fire at him as he passes, until he is
+brought down. Another mode is to hunt by torch-light, without dogs. In
+this case, slaves carry torches before the party; the light of which so
+amazes the deer, that he stands gazing in the brushwood. The glare of his
+eyes is always sufficient to direct the attention of the rifleman, who
+levels his piece at the space between them, and seldom fails of hitting
+him fairly in the head.
+
+A boat at length arrived from New Orleans, bound for Nashville in
+Tennessee, and I secured a passage to Smithland, at the mouth of the
+Cumberland river, where I had a double opportunity of getting to
+Louisville, as boats from St. Louis, as well as those from Orleans, stop
+at that point. The day following my arrival a boat came up, and I
+proceeded to Louisville. On board, whilst I was amusing myself forward, I
+was accosted by a deck-passenger, whom I recollected to have seen at
+Harmony. He told me, amongst other things, that a Mr. O----, who resided
+there, had been elected captain, and added that he was "a considerable
+clever fellow," and the best captain they ever had. I inquired what
+peculiar qualification in their new officer led him to that conclusion.
+Expecting to hear of his superior knowledge in military tactics, I was
+astounded when he seriously informed me, in answer, that on a late
+occasion (I believe it was the anniversary of the birth of Washington),
+after parade, he ordered them into a "groggery," "not to take a _little_
+of something to drink, but by J---s to drink as much as they had a mind
+to." It must be observed, that this individual I had seen but once, in the
+streets of Harmony, and then he was in a state of inebriation. Another
+anecdote, of a similar character, was related to me by an Englishman
+relative to his own election to the post of brigadier-general. The
+candidate opposed to him had served in the late war, and in his address to
+the electors boasted not a little of the circumstance, and concluded by
+stating that he was "ready to lead them to a cannon's mouth when
+necessary." This my friend the General thought a poser; but, however, he
+determined on trying what virtue there was--not in stones, like the "old
+man" with the "young saucebox,"--but in a much more potent article,
+whisky; so, after having stated that although he had not served, yet he
+was as ready to serve against "the hired assassins of England"--this is
+the term by which the Americans designate our troops--as his opponent, he
+concluded by saying, "Boys, Mr. ---- has told you that he is ready to lead
+you to a cannon's mouth--now _I_ don't wish you any such misfortune as
+getting the contents of a cannon in your bowels, but if necessary,
+perhaps, I'd lead you as far as he would; however, men, the short and the
+long of it is, instead of leading you to the mouth of a cannon, I'll lead
+you this instant to the mouth of a barrel of whisky." This was enough--the
+electors shouted, roared, laughed, and drank--and elected my friend
+Brigadier-general. Brigadier-general! what must this man's relatives in
+England think, when they hear that he is a Brigadier-general in the
+American army? Yet he is a very respectable man (an auctioneer), and much
+superior to many west country Generals. The fact is, a dollar's-worth of
+whisky and a little Irish wit would go as far in electioneering as five
+pounds would go in England; and were it not for the protection afforded by
+the ballot, the Americans would be fully as corrupt, and would exercise
+the franchise as little in accordance with the public interest, as the
+English and Irish who enjoy the freedom of corporate towns. Some aspirants
+to office in the New England states, about the time of the last
+presidential election, tried the system of bribing, and obtained promises
+fully sufficient to insure their returns; but on counting the votes, it
+was found that more than one half the persons who were paid to vote _for_,
+must have voted _against_ the person who had bribed them. It is needless
+to say this experiment was not repeated. The Americans thought it bad
+enough to take the bribe, but justly concluded that it would be a double
+crime to adhere to the agreement. The bravo who takes a purse to commit an
+assassination, and does not do that for which he has been paid; is an
+angel, when compared to the villain who performs his contract.
+
+The usual time occupied in a voyage from Orleans to Louisville is from ten
+to twelve days, and boats have performed it in the surprisingly short
+space of eight days. The spur that commerce has received from the
+introduction of steam-boats on the western waters, can only be appreciated
+by comparing the former means of communication with the present. Previous
+to 1812, the navigation of the Upper Ohio was carried on by means of about
+150 small barges, averaging between thirty and forty tons burden, and the
+time consumed in ascending from the Falls to Pittsburg was a full month.
+On the Lower Ohio and the Mississippi there were about twenty barges,
+which averaged 100 tons burden, and more than three months was occupied in
+ascending from Orleans to Louisville with West India produce, the crew
+being obliged to poll or _cordelle_ the whole distance. Seldom more than
+one voyage to Orleans and back was made within the year. In 1817, a
+steam-boat arrived at Louisville from New Orleans in twenty-five days, and
+a public dinner and other rejoicings celebrated the event. From that
+period until 1827, the time consumed in this voyage gradually diminished,
+and in that year a boat from New Orleans entered the port of Louisville in
+eight days and two hours. There are at present on the waters of the Ohio
+and Mississippi, 323 boats, the aggregate burden of which is 56,000 tons,
+the greater proportion measuring from 250 to 500 tons.
+
+The people of this country cannot properly be compared with the
+inhabitants of England; their institutions are different, and their
+habits and manners must necessarily be dissimilar. Indeed, they are as
+unlike the English as any people can well be, and many of them with whom I
+conversed, denied flatly the descent. They contend that they are a
+compound of the best blood of Europe, and that the language of England
+only prevailed because, _originally_, the majority of settlers were
+English; but that since the revolution, the whole number of emigrants from
+the other countries of Europe greatly exceeded the proportion from England
+and Ireland. Their temperament, organisation, and independent spirit,
+appear to bear them out in this assertion.
+
+In England we have all the grades and conditions of society that are to be
+found in America, with the addition of two others, the highest and the
+lowest classes. There is no extensive class here equivalent to the English
+or Irish labourer; neither is there any class whose manners are stamped
+with that high polish and urbanity which characterises the aristocracy of
+England. The term _gentleman_ is used here in a very different sense from
+that in which it is applied in Europe--it means simply, well-behaved
+citizen. All classes of society claim it--from the purveyor of old bones,
+up to the planter; and I have myself heard a bar-keeper in a tavern and a
+stage driver, whilst quarrelling, seriously accuse each other of being "no
+gentleman." The only class who live on the labour of others, and without
+their own personal exertions, are the planters in the south. There are
+certainly many persons who derive very considerable revenues from houses;
+but they must be very few, if any, who have ample incomes from land, and
+this only in the immediate vicinity of the largest and oldest cities.
+
+English novels have very extensive circulation here, which certainly is of
+no service to the country, as it induces the wives and daughters of
+American gentlemen (alias, shopkeepers) to ape gentility. In Louisville,
+Cincinnati, and all the other towns of the west, the women have
+established circles of society. You will frequently be amused by seeing a
+lady, the wife of a dry-goods store-keeper, look most contemptuously at
+the mention of another's name, whose husband pursues precisely the same
+occupation, but on a less extensive scale, and observe, that "she only
+belongs to the third circle of society." This species of embryo
+aristocracy--or as Socrates would, call it, Plutocracy--is based on wealth
+alone, and is decidedly the most contemptible of any. There are,
+notwithstanding, very many well-bred, if not highly polished, women in the
+country; and on the whole, the manners of the women are much more
+agreeable than those of the men.
+
+Early in the summer I proceeded to Maysville, in Kentucky, which lies
+about 220 miles above the Falls. Here having to visit a gentlemen in the
+interior, I hired a chaise, for which I paid about two shillings British
+per mile.
+
+A great deal of excitement was just then produced among the inhabitants of
+Maysville by the president's having put his veto on the bill, passed by
+congress, granting loans to the "Maysville and Lexington road," and the
+"Louisville canal" companies. The Kentuckians were in high dudgeon, and
+denounced Jackson as an enemy to internal improvement, and to the western
+states. It would appear that the friends of Adams and Clay, had determined
+to place Jackson in a dilemma which would involve his character, either as
+a friend to internal improvement or an enemy to lavish expenditure.
+Accordingly, they passed an unusual number of bills, appropriating money
+to the clearing of creeks, building of bridges, and making of canals and
+turnpike roads; the amount of which, instead of leaving a surplus of ten
+millions to the liquidation of the national debt, would not only have
+totally exhausted the treasury, but have actually exceeded by 20,000,000
+dollars the revenue of the current year. This manoeuvre was timely
+discovered by the administration, and the president consequently refused
+to put his signature to those bills, amongst a number of others. He
+refused on two grounds. The first was, that although it had been the
+practice of congress to grant sums of money for the purpose of making
+roads and perfecting other works, which only benefited one or two states;
+yet that such practice was not sanctioned by the constitution--the federal
+legislature having no power to act but with reference to the general
+interests of the states. The second was, that the road in question was
+local in the most limited sense, commencing at the Ohio river, and running
+back sixty miles to an interior town, and consequently, the grant in
+question came within neither the constitutional powers nor practice of
+congress.
+
+The president recommends that the surplus revenue, after the debt shall
+have been paid off, should be portioned out to the different states, in
+proportion to their ratio of representation; which appears to be
+judicious, as the question of congressional power to appropriate money to
+road-making, &c., although of a general character, involves also the right
+of jurisdiction; which congress clearly has not, except where the defence
+of the country, or other paramount interests, are concerned.
+
+The national debt will be totally extinguished in four years, when this
+country will present a curious spectacle for the serious consideration of
+European nations. During the space of fifty-six years, two successful wars
+have been carried on--one for the establishment, and the other for the
+maintenance of national independence, and a large amount of public works
+and improvements has been effected; yet, after the expiration of four
+years from this time, there will not only be no public debt, but the
+revenue arising from protecting tariff duties alone will amount to more
+than the expenditure by upwards of 10,000,000 dollars.
+
+A brief abstract from the treasury report on the finances of the United
+States, up to the 1st January, 1831, may not be uninteresting.
+
+                                             Dollars. Cts.
+Balance in the treasury, 1st January,
+1828                                         6,668,286 10
+
+Receipts of the year 1828                   24,789,463 61
+                                            _____________
+Total                                       31,457,749 71
+Expenditure for the year 1828               25,485,313 90
+                                            _____________
+Leaving a balance in the treasury, 1st
+January, 1829, of                            5,972,435 81
+
+Receipts from all sources during the
+year 1829                                   24,827,627 38
+
+Expenditures for the same year, including
+3,686,542 dol. 93 ct. on account of
+the public debt, and 9,033 dol. 38 ct.
+for awards under the first article of the
+treaty of Ghent                             25,044,358 40
+
+Balance in the treasury on 1st January,
+1830                                         5,755,704 79
+
+The receipts from all sources during the
+year 1830 were                              24,844,116 51
+
+                    viz.
+
+Customs                                     21,922,391 39
+
+Lands                                        2,329,356 14
+
+Dividends on bank stock                        490,000 00
+
+Incidental receipts                            102,368 98
+                                            _____________
+
+The expenditures for the same year were     24,585,281 55
+
+                    viz.
+
+Civil list, foreign intercourse,
+and miscellaneous                            3,237,416 04
+
+Military service, including
+fortifications, ordnance,
+Indian affairs,
+pensions, arming the
+militia, and internal
+improvements                                 6,752,688 66
+
+Naval service, including
+sums appropriated
+to the gradual
+improvement of the
+navy[14]                                     3,239,428 63
+
+Public debt                                 11,355,748 22
+                                            _____________
+
+Leaving a balance in the treasury
+on the 1st of January, 1831, of              6,014,539 75
+
+
+
+
+_Public Debt_.
+
+                                             Dollars. Cts.
+The payments made on account of the
+Public Debt, during the first three
+quarters of the year 1831, amounted to      9,883,479  46
+
+It was estimated that the payments to
+be made in the fourth quarter of the
+same year, would amount to                  6,205,810  21
+                                           ______________
+Making the whole amount of disbursments
+on account of the Debt in 1831             16,089,289  67
+
+
+
+THE  PUBLIC  DEBT,  ON  THE  SECOND  OF JANUARY, 1832, WILL
+BE AS FOLLOWS, VIZ.;--
+
+
+1. _Funded Debt_.
+                                             Dollars. Cts.
+Three per cents, per act
+of the 4th of August,
+1790, redeemable at the
+pleasure of government                      13,296,626 21
+
+Five per cents, per act of
+the 3rd of March, 1821,
+redeemable after the 1st
+January, 1823                                4,735,296 30
+
+Five per cents, (exchanged),
+per act of 20th of
+April, 1823; one third
+redeemable annually
+after 31st of December,
+1830, 1831 and 1832                            56,704  77
+
+Four and half per cents.
+per act of the 24th of
+May, 1824, redeemable
+after 1st of January,
+1832                                        1,739,524  01
+
+Four and half per cents.
+(exchanged), per act of
+the 26th of May, 1824;
+one half redeemable
+after the 31st day of
+December, 1832                              4,454,727  95
+                                           ______________
+                                           24,282,879  24
+
+
+2. _Unfunded Debt_.
+
+Registered Debt, being
+claims registered prior
+to the year 1793, for
+services and supplies
+during the revolutionary war                   27,919  85
+
+Treasury notes                                  7,116  00
+
+Mississippi stock                               4,320  09
+                                           ______________
+                                               39,355  94
+
+Making the whole amount of the Public
+Debt of the United States                  24,322,235  18
+                                           ______________
+
+Which is, allowing 480 cents to the
+sovereign, in sterling money            £5,067,132 6_s_. 7_d_.
+
+General Jackson has proposed another source of national revenue, in the
+establishment of a bank; the profits of which, instead of going into the
+pockets of stock-holders as at present, should be placed to the credit of
+the nation. If an establishment of this nature could be formed, without
+involving higher interests than the mere pecuniary concerns of the
+country, no doubt it would be most desirable. But how a _government_ bank
+could be so formed as that it should not throw immense and dangerous
+influence into the hands of the executive, appears difficult to determine.
+If it be at all connected with the government, the executive must exercise
+an extensive authority over its affairs; and in that case, the mercantile
+portion of the community would lie completely under the surveillance of
+the president, who might at pleasure exercise this immense patronage to
+forward private political designs. No doubt there have been abuses to a
+considerable extent practised by the present bank of the United States in
+the exercise of its functions; but how those abuses are likely to be
+remedied by Jackson's plan, does not appear. For, let the directors be
+appointed by government, or elected by congress, they must still exercise
+discretional power; and they are quite as likely to exercise it
+unwarrantably as those who have a direct interest in the prosperity of the
+concern. I totally disapprove of the attempt to correct the abuses of one
+monopoly by the establishment of another in its stead, of a still more
+dangerous character; and I am inclined to think that if two banks were
+chartered instead of one, each having ample capital to insure public
+confidence, competition alone would furnish a sufficient motive to induce
+them to act with justice and liberality towards the public.
+
+In 1766, Kentucky was first explored, by John Finlay, an Indian trader,
+Colonel Daniel Boon, and others. They again visited it in 1769, when the
+whole party, excepting Boon, were slain by the Indians--he escaped, and
+reached North Carolina, where he then resided. Accompanied by about forty
+expert hunters, comprised in five families, in the year 1775, he set
+forward to make a settlement in the country. They erected a fort on the
+banks of the Kentucky river, and being joined by several other
+adventurers, they finally succeeded. The Kentuckians tell of many a bloody
+battle fought by these pioneers, and boast that their country has been
+gained, every inch, by conquest.
+
+The climate of Kentucky is favourable to the growth of hemp, flax,
+tobacco, and all kinds of grain. The greater portion of the soil is rich
+loam, black, or mixed with reddish earth, generally to the depth of five
+or six feet, on a limestone bottom. The produce of corn is about sixty
+bushels on an average per acre, and of wheat about thirty-five; cotton is
+partially cultivated. The scenery is varied, and the country well
+watered.
+
+The Kentuckians all carry large pocket knives, which they never fail to
+use in a scuffle; and you may see a gentleman seated at the tavern door,
+balanced on two legs of a chair, picking his teeth with a knife, the blade
+of which is full six inches long, or cutting the benches, posts, or any
+thing else that may lie within his reach. Notwithstanding this, the
+Kentuckians are by no means more quarrelsome than any other people of the
+western states; and they are vastly less so than the people of Ireland.
+But when they do commence hostilities, they fight with great bitterness,
+as do most Americans, biting, gouging, and cutting unrelentingly.
+
+I never went into a court-house in the west _in summer_, without observing
+that the judges and lawyers had their feet invariably placed upon the
+desks before them, and raised much higher than their heads. This, however,
+is only in the western country; for in the courts at Orleans, New York,
+and Philadelphia, the greatest order and regularity is observed. I had
+been told that the judges often slept upon the bench; but I must confess,
+that although I have entered court-houses at all seasons during the space
+of fifteen months, I never saw an instance of it. I have frequently
+remonstrated with the Americans, on the total absence of forms and
+ceremonies in their courts of justice, and was commonly answered by "Yes,
+that may be quite necessary in England, in order to overawe a parcel of
+ignorant creatures, who have no share in making the laws; but with us, a
+man's a man, whether he have a silk gown on him or not; and I guess he can
+decide quite as well without a big wig as with one. You see, we have done
+with wiggery of all kinds; and if one of our judges were to wear such an
+appendage, he'd be taken for a merry-andrew, and the court would become a
+kind of show-box--instead of such arrangements producing with us
+solemnity, they would produce nothing but laughter, and the greatest
+possible irregularity."
+
+I was present at an election in the interior of the state. The office was
+that of representative in the state legislature, and the candidates were a
+hatter and a saddler; the former was also a militia major, and a Methodist
+preacher, of the Percival and Gordon school, who eschewed the devil and
+all the backsliding abominations of the flesh, as in duty bound. Sundry
+"stump orations" were delivered on the occasion, for the enlightenment of
+the electors; and towards the close of the proceedings, by way of an
+appropriate finale, the aforesaid triune-citizen and another gentleman,
+had a gouging scrape on the hustings. The major in this contest proved
+himself to be a true Kentuckian; that is, half a horse, and half an
+alligator; which contributed not a little to ensure his return. After the
+election, I was conversing with one of the most violent opponents of the
+successful candidate, and remarked to him, that I supposed he would rally
+his forces at the next election to put out the major: he replied, "I can't
+tell that!" I said, "why? will you not oppose him?" "Oh!" he says, "for
+that matter, he may do his duty pretty well." "And do you mean to say,"
+continued I, "that if he should do so, you will give him no opposition?"
+He looked at me, as if he did not clearly comprehend, and said, "Why, I
+guess not."
+
+The boatmen of the Ohio and Mississippi are the most riotous and lawless
+set of people in America, and the least inclined to submit to the
+constituted authorities. At Cincinnati I saw one of those persons
+arrested, on the wharf, for debt. He seemed little inclined to submit; as,
+could he contrive to escape to the opposite shore, he was safe. He called
+upon his companions in the flat-boat, who came instantly to his
+assistance, and were apparently ready to rescue him from the clutches of
+this trans-Atlantic bum-bailiff. The constable instantly pulled out--not a
+pistol, but a small piece of paper, and said, "I take him in the name of
+the States." The messmates of this unfortunate navigator looked at him for
+some time, and then one of them said drily, "I guess you must go with the
+constable." Subsequently, at New York, one evening returning to my hotel,
+I heard a row in a tavern, and wishing to see the process of capturing
+refractory citizens, I entered with some other persons. The constable was
+there unsupported by any of his brethren, and it seemed to me to be
+morally impossible that, without assistance, he could take half a dozen
+fellows, who were with difficulty restrained from whipping each other.
+However, his hand seemed to be as potent as the famous magic wand of
+Armida, for on placing it on the shoulders of the combatants, they fell
+into the ranks, and marched off with him as quietly as if they had been
+sheep. The rationale of the matter is this: those men had all exercised
+the franchise, if not in the election of these very constables, of
+others, and they therefore not only considered it to be their duty to
+support the constable's authority, but actually felt a strong inclination
+to do so. Because they _knew_ that the authority he exercised was only
+delegated to him by themselves, and that, in resisting him, they would
+resist their own sovereignty. Even in large towns in the western country,
+the constable has no men under his command, but always finds most powerful
+allies in the citizens themselves, whenever a lawless scoundrel, or a
+culprit is to be captured.
+
+At Flemingsburg I saw an Albino, a female about fourteen years old. Her
+parents were clear negros, of the Congo or Guinea race, and in every thing
+but colour she perfectly resembled them. Her form, face, and hair,
+possessed the true negro characteristics--curved shins, projecting jaw,
+retreating forehead, and woolly head. The skin was rather whiter than that
+of the generality of Europeans, but was deficient in glossiness, and
+although perfectly smooth, had a dry appearance. The wool on the head was
+of a light flaxen colour, and the iris of the eye was of a reddish-blue
+tinge. Her eyes were so weak as to bear with difficulty the glare of day.
+Most Albinos are dim sighted until twilight, when they appear to have as
+perfect vision as persons with the strongest sight, and in many cases,
+even more acute. This individual had evidently weak sight, as the eyelids
+were generally half closed, and she always held her head down during day
+light.
+
+Near the banks of the Ohio, full three hundred miles from the sea, I found
+conglomerations of marine shells, mixed with siliceous earth; and in
+nearly all the runs throughout Kentucky, limestone pebbles are found,
+bearing the perfect impressions of the interior of shells. The most
+abundant proofs are every where exhibited, that at one period the vast
+savannahs and lofty mountains of the New world were submerged; and perhaps
+the present bed of the ocean was once covered with verdure, and the seat
+of the sorrows and joys of myriads of human beings, who erected cities,
+and built pyramids, and monuments, which Time has long since swept away,
+and wrapt in his eternal mantle of oblivion. That a constant, but almost
+imperceptible change is hourly taking place in the earth's surface,
+appears to be established; and independent of the extraordinary
+_bouleversements_, which have at intervals convulsed our globe, this
+gradual revolution has produced, and will produce again, a total
+alteration in the face of nature.
+
+FOOTNOTES:
+
+[14] Amongst other plans to this effect, there is one proposed, by which
+midshipmen on half-pay will be obliged to make at least two voyages
+annually, in merchant ships, as mates, and all others must have done so,
+in order to entitle them to be reinstated in their former rank. Another
+is, that there shall be small vessels, rigged and fitted out in war
+style, appropriated to the purpose of teaching pupils, practically, the
+science of navigation, and the discipline necessary to be observed on
+board vessels of war. The Americans may not eat their fish with silver
+forks, nor lave their fingers in the most approved style; yet they are by
+no means so contemptible a people as some of our small gentry affect to
+think. They may too, occasionally, be put down in political argument, by
+the dogmatical method of the quarter-deck; but I must confess that _I_
+never was so fortunate as to come in contact with any who reasoned so
+badly as the persons Captain Bazil Hall introduces in his book.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER IX.
+
+
+The wailings of the Cherokee, the Choctaw, and the Creek, may have been
+wafted across the waters of the great salt lake, and the Pale-face in his
+own land may have heard their lamentations;--but the distant voice is
+scattered by the passing winds, and is heard like the whisper of a summer
+breeze as it steals along the prairies of the west, or the cry of the
+wish-ton-wish as it faintly reaches the ear of the navigator, when, in the
+stilly night, he floats down "the old father of waters."
+
+The present posture of Indian affairs, and the peculiar situation of the
+Indian nations east of the Mississippi, have caused that unfortunate
+people to be the topic of much political controversy and conversation; a
+succinct account of the political condition of these tribes, and of the
+policy which has been pursued, and which is being pursued towards them, by
+the executive government, may not therefore be uninteresting.
+
+When Georgia, by becoming a member of the Union, ceded part of her
+sovereignty to the general executive, that government acknowledged her
+claimed limits, and guaranteed to her the protection of the Union against
+foreign and domestic violence. Subsequently, in the year of 1802, in
+consideration of a certain portion of lands ceded, the United States
+became bound to purchase for Georgia, any claim which the Cherokee nation
+might have on lands within her boundaries, whenever such purchase could be
+made on reasonable terms. On these positions are based the Georgian
+claims, which the United States government has hitherto pleaded inability
+to satisfy, inasmuch as all efforts to purchase the Indian lands have
+proved fruitless.
+
+After the lapse of twenty-seven years, Georgia, finding herself precisely
+in the same condition in which she then stood, has determined on forcibly
+taking possession of the Cherokee lands, and extending her sovereignty
+over the Cherokee people. But as this cannot be effected without doing
+manifest violence to the Indian rights, she brings forward arguments to
+show, that _she_ never acknowledged the independence of the Cherokee
+nation; that that nation, from the time of the first settlement made by
+Europeans in America, stood in the position of a conquered people; that
+the sovereignty consequently dwelt in the hands of Great Britain; and
+that, on the Declaration of independence, Georgia, by becoming a free
+state, became invested with all the powers of sovereignty claimed or
+exercised by Great Britain over the Georgian territory: and further, that
+in November, 1785, when the first and only treaty was concluded with the
+Cherokees by the United States, during the articles of confederation, both
+she and North Carolina entered their solemn protests against this alleged
+violation of their legislative rights. The executive government pretends
+not to argue the case with Georgia, and is left no alternative but either
+to annul its _conditional_ treaty with that state, or to cancel _thirteen
+distinct treaties_ entered into with the Indians, despoil them of their
+lands, and rob them of their independence. Jackson's message says, "It is
+too late to inquire whether it was just in the United States to include
+them and their territory within bounds of new states, whose limits they
+could control. That step cannot be retracted. A state cannot be
+dismembered by Congress, or restrained in the exercise of her
+constitutional powers." Here the executive government acknowledges that it
+made promises to Georgia, which it has been unable to perform--that it
+guaranteed to that state the possession of lands over which it had no
+legitimate control, on the mere assumption of being able to make their
+purchase.
+
+The Cherokees in their petition and memorials to Congress show, that Great
+Britain never exercised any sovereignty over them;--that in peace and in
+war she always treated them as a free people, and never assumed to herself
+the right of interfering with their internal government:--that in every
+treaty made with them by the United States, their sovereignty and total
+independence are clearly acknowledged, and that they have ever been
+considered as a distinct nation, exercising all the privileges and
+immunities enjoyed by any independent people. They say, "In addition to
+that first of all rights, the right of inheritance and peaceable
+possession, we have the faith and pledge of the United States, over and
+over again, in treaties made at various times. By these treaties our
+rights as a separate people are distinctly acknowledged, and guarantees
+given that they shall be secured and protected. So we have also
+understood the treaties. The conduct of the government towards us, from
+its organization until very lately--the talks given to our beloved men by
+the Presidents of the United States--and the speeches of the agents and
+commissioners--all concur to show that we are not mistaken in our
+interpretation. Some of our beloved men who signed the treaties are still
+living, and their testimony tends to the same conclusion." * * * * "In
+what light shall we view the conduct of the United States and Georgia in
+their intercourse with us, in urging us to enter into treaties and cede
+lands? If we were but tenants at will, why was it necessary that our
+consent must first be obtained before these governments could take lawful
+possession of our lands? The answer is obvious. These governments
+perfectly understand our rights--our right to the country, and our right
+to self-government. Our understanding of the treaties is further supported
+by the intercourse law of the United States, which prohibits all
+encroachment on our territory."
+
+The arguments used by the Cherokees are unanswerable; but in what will
+that avail them, when injustice is intended by a superior power, which,
+regardless of national faith, has determined on taking possession of their
+lands? The case stands thus: the executive government enters into an
+agreement with Georgia, and engages to deliver over to the state the
+Indian possessions within her claimed limits--without the Indians _having
+any knowledge of, or participation in the transaction._ Now what, may I
+ask, have the Indians to do with this? Ought they to be made answerable
+for the gross misconduct of the two governments, and to be despoiled,
+contrary to every principle of justice, and in defiance of the most plain
+and fundamental law of property? It puts one in mind of the judgment of
+the renowned "Walter the Doubter," who decided between two citizens, that,
+as their account books appeared to be of equal _weight_, therefore their
+accounts were balanced, and that _the constable_ should pay the costs. The
+United States government has made several offers to the Cherokees for
+their lands; which they have as constantly refused, and said, "that they
+were very well contented where they were--that they did not wish to leave
+the bones of their ancestors, and go beyond the Mississippi; but that, if
+the country be so beautiful as their white brother represents it, they
+would recommend their white brother to go there himself."
+
+Georgia presses upon the executive; which, in this dilemma, comes forward
+with affected sympathy--deplores the unfortunate situation in which it is
+placed, but of course concludes that faith must be kept with Georgia, and
+that the Cherokee must either go, or submit to laws that make it far
+better for him to go than stay. It is true Jackson says in his message,
+"This emigration should be voluntary; for it would be cruel as unjust to
+compel the Aborigines to abandon the graves of their fathers, and seek a
+home in a distant land." But General Jackson well knows that the laws of
+Georgia leave the Indian no choice--as no community of men, civilized or
+savage, could possibly exist under such laws. The benefit and protection
+of the laws, to which the Indian is made subject, are entirely withheld
+from him--he can be no party to a suit--he may be robbed and murdered with
+impunity--his property may be taken, and he may be driven from his
+dwelling--in fine, he is left liable to every species of insult, outrage,
+cruelty, and dishonesty, without the most distant hope of obtaining
+redress; for in Georgia _an Indian cannot be a witness to prove facts
+against a white man._ Yet General Jackson says, "this emigration should be
+_voluntary_;" and in the very same paragraph, with a single sweep of the
+pen, he annihilates all the treaties that have been made with that
+people--tramples under foot the laws of nations, and deprives the Indian
+of his hunting-grounds, one of his sources of subsistence. He says,--"But
+it seems to me visionary to suppose that, in this state of things, claims
+can be allowed on tracts of country on which they have neither dwelt nor
+made improvements, merely because they have seen them from the mountain,
+or passed them in the chase." It certainly may be unphilosophical to
+permit any man to possess more ground than he can till with his own hands;
+yet surely arguments that we do not admit as regards ourselves, we can
+with no sense of propriety use towards others, particularly when our own
+acts are directly in the very teeth of this principle. There is more land
+at present within the limits and in the possession of the United States
+than would be sufficient to support thirty times the present
+population--yet to this must be added the hunting-grounds of the Indians,
+merely because "it is _visionary to suppose_ they have any claim on what
+they do not _actually occupy!"_
+
+I have now before me the particulars of thirteen treaties[15] made by the
+United States with the Cherokee nation, from the year 1785 down to 1819
+inclusive; in all of which the rights of the Indians are clearly
+acknowledged, either directly, or by implication; and by the seventh
+article of the treaty of Holston, executed in 1791, being the first
+concluded with that people by the United States, under their present
+constitution, all the lands not thereby ceded are solemnly guaranteed to
+the Cherokee nation. The subsequent treaties are made with reference to,
+and in confirmation of this, and continually reiterate the guarantees
+therein tendered.
+
+To talk of justice, and honour, would be idle and visionary, for these
+seem to have been thrown overboard at the very commencement of the
+contest; but I would ask the American _people_, is their conduct towards
+the Indians politic?--is it politic in America, in the face of civilized
+nations, to violate treaties? is it politic in her, to hold herself up to
+the world as faithless and unjust--as a nation, which, in defiance of all
+moral obligation, will break her most sacred contracts, whenever it
+becomes no longer her interest to keep them, and she finds herself in a
+condition to do so with impunity? is she not furnishing foreign statesmen
+with a ready and powerful argument in defence of their violating treaties
+with her? can they not with justice say--America has manifested in her
+proceedings towards the Cherokee nation, that she is faithless--that she
+keeps no treaties longer than it may be her _interest_ to do so--and are
+_we_ to make ourselves the dupes of such a power, and wait until she finds
+herself in a condition to deceive us? I could produce many arguments to
+illustrate the impolicy of this conduct; but as I intend confining myself
+to a mere sketch, I shall dwell but as short a time as may be consistent
+on the several facts connected with the case.
+
+That the Aborigines have been cruelly treated, cannot be doubted. The very
+words of the Message admit this; and the tone of feeling and conciliation
+which follows that admission, coupled as it is with the intended injustice
+expressed in other paragraphs, can be viewed in no other light than as a
+piece of political mockery. The Message says, "their present condition,
+contrasted with what they once were, makes a most powerful appeal to our
+sympathies. Our ancestors found them the uncontrolled possessors of these
+vast regions. By persuasion and force, they have been made to retire from
+river to river, and from mountain to mountain, until some of the tribes
+have become extinct, and others have left but remnants, to preserve for a
+while their once terrible names." Now the plan laid down by the president,
+in order to prevent, if possible, the total decay of the Indian people,
+is, to send them beyond the Mississippi, and _guarantee_ to them the
+possession of ample territory west of that river. How far this is likely
+to answer the purpose _expressed_, let us now examine.
+
+The Cherokees, by their intercourse with and proximity to the white
+people, have become half civilized; and how is it likely that _their_
+condition will be improved by driving them into the forests and barren
+prairies? That territory is at present the haunt of the Pawnees, the
+Osages, and other warlike nations, who live almost entirely by the chase,
+and are constantly waging war even with each other. As soon as the
+Cherokees, and other half-civilized Indians, appear, they will be regarded
+as common intruders, and be subject to the united attacks of these people.
+There are even old feuds existing among themselves, which, it is but too
+probable, may be renewed. Trappers and hunters, in large parties, yearly
+make incursions into the country beyond the boundaries of the United
+States, and in defiance of the Indians kill the beaver and the
+buffalo--the latter merely for the _tongue and skin_, leaving the carcase
+to rot upon the ground.[16] Thus is this unfortunate race robbed of their
+means of subsistence. Moreover, what guarantee can the Indians have, that
+the United States will keep faith for the future, when it is admitted that
+they have not done so in times past? How can they be sure that they may
+not further be driven from river to river, and from mountain to mountain,
+until they reach the shores of the Pacific; and who can tell but that then
+it may be found expedient to drive them into the ocean?
+
+The policy of the United States government is evidently to get the Indians
+to exterminate each other. Its whole proceedings from the time this
+question was first agitated to the present, but too clearly indicate this
+intention; and if we wanted proof, that the executive government of the
+United States _would act_ on so barbarous and inhuman a policy, we need
+only refer to the allocation of the Cherokees, who exchanged lands in
+Tennessee for lands west of the Mississippi, pursuant to the treaty of
+1819. It was well known that a deadly enmity existed between the Osages
+and Cherokees, and that any proximity of the two people, would inevitably
+lead to fatal results; yet, with this knowledge, the executive government
+placed those Cherokees in the country lying between the Arkansaw and Red
+rivers, _immediately joining the territory of the Osages._ It is
+unnecessary to state that the result was _as anticipated_--they daily
+committed outrages upon the persons and properties of each other, and the
+death of many warriors, on both sides, ensued.
+
+The sympathy expressed in that part of the Message relating to the
+Indians, if expressed with sincerity, would do much honour to the feelings
+that dictated it; but when we come to examine the facts, and investigate
+the implied allegations, we shall find that they are most gratuitous; and,
+consequently, that the regret of the president at the probable fate of the
+Indian, should he remain east of the Mississippi, is grossly hypocritical.
+He says, "surrounded by the whites, with their arts of civilization,
+which, by destroying the resources of the savage, doom him to weakness and
+decay:[17] the fate of the Mohegan, the Narragansett, and the Delaware, is
+fast overtaking the Choctaw, the Cherokee, and the Creek. That this fate
+surely awaits them, if they remain within the limits of the States, does
+not admit of a doubt. Humanity and national honour demand that every
+effort should be made to avert so great a calamity." From what facts the
+president has drawn these conclusions does not appear. Neither the
+statements of the Cherokees, nor of the Indian agents, nor the report of
+the secretary of war, furnish any such information; on the contrary, with
+the exception of one or two agents _at Washington_, all give the most
+flattering accounts of advancement in civilization. The Rev. Samuel A.
+Worcester, in his letter to the Rev. E.S. Ely, editor of the
+"Philadelphian," completely refutes all the unfavourable statements that
+have been got up to cover the base conduct of Jackson and the slavites.
+This gentleman has resided for the last four years among the Cherokees,
+and has surely had abundant means of observing their condition.
+
+The letter of David Brown (a Cherokee), addressed, September 2, 1825, to
+the editor of "The Family Visitor," at Richmond, Virginia, states, that
+"the Cherokee plains are covered with herds of cattle--sheep, goats, and
+swine, cover the valleys and hills--the plains and valleys are rich, and
+produce Indian corn, cotton, tobacco, wheat, oats, indigo, sweet and Irish
+potatoes, &c. The natives carry on a considerable trade with the adjoining
+states, and some of them export cotton in boats down the Tennessee to the
+Mississippi, and down that river to New Orleans. Orchards are
+common--cheese, butter, &c. plenty--houses of entertainment are kept by
+natives. Cotton and woollen cloths are manufactured in the nation, and
+almost every family grows cotton for its own consumption. Agricultural
+pursuits engage the chief attention of the nation--different branches of
+mechanics are pursued. Schools are increasing every year, and education is
+encouraged and rewarded." To quote David Brown verbatim, on the
+population,--"In the year 1819, an estimate was made of the Cherokees.
+Those on the west were estimated at 5,000, and those on the east of the
+Mississippi, at 10,000 souls. The census of this division of the Cherokees
+has again been taken within the current year (1825), and the returns are
+thus made: native citizens, 13,563; white men married in the nation, 147;
+white women ditto, 73; African slaves, 1177. If this summary of the
+Cherokee population, from the census, is correct, to say nothing of those
+of foreign extract, we find that in six years the increase has been 3,563
+souls. National pride, patriotism, and a spirit of independence, mark the
+Cherokee character." He further states, "the system of government is
+founded on republican principles, and secures the respect of the people."
+An alphabet has been invented by an Indian, named George Guess, the
+Cherokee Cadmus, and a printing press has been established at New Echota,
+the seat of government, where there is published weekly a paper entitled,
+"The Cherokee Phoenix,"--one half being in the English language, and the
+other in that of the Cherokee.
+
+The report of the secretary of war, upon the present condition of the
+Indians, states of the Chickesaws and Choctaws, all that has been above
+said of the Cherokees. But of the last-mentioned people, the secretary's
+accounts appear to be studiously defective. Yet the fact is notorious,
+that both the Chickesaws and Choctaws are far behind the Cherokees in
+civilization.
+
+With these facts before our eyes, what are we to think of the grief of the
+president, at the decay and increasing weakness of the Cherokees? Can it
+be regarded in any way but as a piece of shameless hypocrisy, too glaring
+in its character to escape the notice even of the most inobservant
+individual. It has been said that the question involves many
+difficulties--to me there appears none. The United States, in the year
+1791, guarantee to the Indians the possession of all their lands not then
+ceded--and confirm this by numerous subsequent treaties. In 1802, they
+promise to Georgia, the possession of the Cherokee lands "_whenever such
+purchase could be made on reasonable terms_" This is the simple state of
+the case; and if the executive were inclined to act uprightly, the line of
+conduct to be pursued could be determined on without much difficulty.
+Georgia has no right to press upon the executive the fulfilment of
+engagements which were made conditionally, and consequently with an
+implied reservation; and the United States should not violate _many
+positive treaties_, in order to fulfil _a conditional one_.[18]
+
+I shall now advert to some of the charges touching the character of the
+Indians. It is said, that they are debauched and insincere. This charge
+has been particularly made against the Creeks, and I believe is not
+altogether unfounded. Yet, if this be now the character of the once
+warlike and noble Creek, let the white man ask himself who has made him
+so? Who makes the "firewater," and who supplies the untutored savage with
+the means of intoxication? The white-man, when he wishes to trade
+profitably with the Indian, fills the cup, and holds it forth--he says,
+'drink, my brother, it is good'--the red-man drinks, and the wily white
+points at his condition, says he is uncivilized, and should go forth from
+the land, for his presence is contamination!
+
+As to the charge of hypocrisy--this too has been taught or forced upon the
+Indians by the conduct of the whites. Missionaries have been constantly
+going among them, teaching dogmas and doctrines, far beyond the
+comprehension of some learned white-men, and to the savage totally
+unintelligible. These gentlemen have told long stories; and when posed by
+some quaint saying, or answered by some piece of traditional information,
+handed down from generation to generation, by the fathers and mothers of
+the tribe, have found it necessary to purchase the acquiescence of a few
+Indians by bribes, in order that their labours might not seem to have been
+altogether unsuccessful. This conduct of the Missionaries was soon
+_understood_ by the Indians, and the temptation held out was too great to
+be resisted. Blankets and gowns converted, when inspiration and gospel
+truths had failed.
+
+Mr. Houston of Tennessee, after having attained the honour of being
+governor of his state, and having enjoyed all the consideration
+necessarily attached to that office, at length became tired of civilized
+life, and retired among the Creeks to end his days. He has resided long
+among them, and knows their character well; yet, in one of his statements
+made to the Indian board at New York, he says, that the attempts to
+Christianize the Indians in their present state, he was of opinion, much
+as he honoured the zeal that had prompted them, were fruitless, _or
+worse._ The supposed conversions had produced no change of habits. So
+degraded had become the character of this once independent people, that
+professions of religious belief had been made, and the ordinances of
+religion submitted to, "when an Indian wanted a new blanket, or a squaw a
+new gown."[19] Thus, according to governor Houston, the only fruits
+produced by the boasted labours of the missionaries, have been
+dissimulation and deceit; and demoralization has been the result of
+teaching _doctrinal_ Christianity to the children of the forest. Yet we
+must, in candour, acknowledge that Mr. Houston is not singular in that
+opinion, since we find, so far back as the year 1755, Cadwallader Calden
+express himself much to the same effect. "The Five Nations," he says, "are
+a poor and generally called barbarous people, bred under the darkest
+ignorance; and yet a bright and noble genius shines through these black
+clouds. None of the greatest Roman heroes have discovered a greater love
+of country, or contempt of death, than these people, called barbarous,
+have shown when liberty came in competition. Indeed I think our Indians
+have outdone the Romans in this particular. Some of the greatest of those
+Roman heroes have murdered themselves to avoid shame or torments; but our
+Indians have refused to die meanly or with little pain, when they thought
+their country's honour would be at stake by it; but have given their
+bodies willingly to the most cruel torments of their enemies, to show, as
+they said, that 'the Five Nations' consisted of men whose courage and
+resolution could not be shaken. But what, alas! have we Christians done to
+make them better? We have, indeed, reason to be ashamed that these
+infidels, by our conversation and neighbourhood, are become worse than
+they were before they knew us. Instead of virtue, we have only taught them
+vice, that they were entirely free from before that time."[20] The Rev.
+Timothy Flint, who was himself a missionary, in his "Ten Years' Residence
+in the Valley of the Mississippi," observes, page 144,--"I have surely
+had it in my heart to impress them with the importance of the subject
+(religion). I have scarcely noticed an instance in which the subject was
+not received either with indifference, rudeness, or jesting. Of all races
+of men that I have seen, they seem most incapable of religious
+impressions. They have, indeed, some notions of an invisible agent, but
+they seemed generally to think that the Indians had their god as the
+whites had theirs." And again, "nothing will eventually be gained to the
+great cause by colouring and mis-statement," alluding to the practice of
+the missionaries; "and however reluctant we may be to receive it, the real
+state of things will eventually be known to us. We have heard of the
+imperishable labours of an Elliott and a Brainard, in other days. But in
+these times it is a melancholy truth, that Protestant exertions to
+Christianize them have not been marked with apparent success. The
+Catholics have caused many to hang a crucifix around their necks, which
+they show as they show their medals and other ornaments, and this is too
+often all they have to mark them as Christians. We have read the
+narratives of the Catholics, which detailed the most glowing and animating
+views of success. I have had accounts, however, from travellers in these
+regions, that have been over the Stony mountains into the great missionary
+settlements of St. Peter and St. Paul. These travellers (and some of them
+were professed Catholics) unite in affirming that the converts will escape
+from the missions whenever it is in their power, fly into their native
+deserts, and resume at once their old mode of life."
+
+That the vast sums expended on missions should have produced so little
+effect, we may consider lamentable, but it is lamentably true; for in
+addition to the mass of evidence we have to that effect, from
+disinterested white men, we have also the speeches and communications of
+the Indians themselves. The celebrated Seneca chief, Saguyuwhaha (keeper
+awake), better known in the United States by the name of Red-jacket, in a
+letter communicated to Governor De Witt Clinton, at a treaty held at
+Albany, says, "Our great father, the President, has recommended to our
+young men to be industrious, to plough and to sow. This we have done; and
+we are thankful for the advice, and for the means he has afforded us of
+carrying it into effect. We are happier in consequence of it; _but another
+thing recommended to us, has created great confusion among us, and is
+making us a quarrelsome and divided people; and that is, the introduction
+of preachers into our nation_. These black-coats contrive to get the
+consent of some of the Indians to preach among us; and whenever this is
+the case, confusion and disorder are sure to follow, and the encroachment
+of the whites on our lands is the inevitable consequence.
+
+"The governor must not think hard of me for speaking thus of the
+preachers: I have observed their progress, and whenever I look back to
+see what has taken place of old, I perceive that whenever they came among
+the Indians, they were the forerunners of their dispersion; that they
+always excited enmities and quarrels amongst them; that they introduced
+the white people on their lands, by whom they were robbed and plundered of
+their property; and that the Indians were sure to dwindle and decrease,
+and be driven back, in proportion to the number of preachers that came
+among them.
+
+"Each nation has its own customs and its own religion. The Indians have
+theirs, given them by the Great Spirit, under which they were happy. It
+was not intended that they should embrace the religion of the whites, and
+be destroyed by the attempt to make them think differently on that subject
+from their fathers.
+
+"It is true, these preachers have got the consent of some of the chiefs to
+stay and preach amongst us; but I and my friends know this to be wrong,
+and that they ought to be removed; besides, we have been threatened by Mr.
+Hyde--who came among us as a schoolmaster and a teacher of our children,
+but has now become a black-coat, and refuses to teach them any more--that
+unless we listen to his preaching and become Christians, we shall be
+turned off our lands. We wish to know from the governor, if this is to be
+so? and if he has no right to say so, we think _he_ ought to be turned off
+our lands, and not allowed to plague us any more. We shall never be at
+peace while he is among us.
+
+"We are afraid too, that these preachers, by and by, will become poor,
+_and force us to pay them for living among us, and disturbing us._
+
+"Some of our chiefs have got lazy, and instead of cultivating their lands
+themselves, employ white people to do so. There are now eleven families
+living on our reservation at Buffalo; this is wrong, and ought not to be
+permitted. The great source of all our grievances is, that the whites are
+among us. Let _them_ be removed, and we will be happy and contented among
+ourselves. We now cry to the governor for help, and hope that he will
+attend to our complaints, and speedily give us redress."[21]
+
+This melancholy hostility to the missionaries is not confined to a
+particular tribe or nation of Indians, for all those people, in every
+situation, from the base of the Alleghanies to the foot of the Rocky
+mountains, declare the same sentiments on this subject; and although
+policy or courtesy may induce some chiefs to express themselves less
+strongly than Red-jacket has expressed himself, we have but too many
+proofs that their feelings are not more moderate. On the fourth of
+February, 1822, the president of the United States, in council, received a
+deputation of Indians, from the principal nations west of the
+Mississippi, who came under the protection of Major O'Fallon, when each
+chief delivered a speech on the occasion. I shall here insert an extract
+from that of the "Wandering Pawnee" chief, more as a specimen of Indian
+wisdom and eloquence than as bearing particularly on the subject. Speaking
+of the Great Spirit, he said, "We worship him not as you do. We differ
+from you in appearance, and manners, as well as in our customs; and we
+differ from you in our religion. We have no large houses, as you have, to
+worship the Great Spirit in: if we had them to-day, we should want others
+to-morrow; for we have not like you a fixed habitation--we have no settled
+home except our villages, where we remain but two months in twelve. We,
+like animals, rove through the country; whilst you whites reside between
+us and heaven. But still, my great Father, we love the Great Spirit--we
+acknowledge his supreme power--our peace, our health, and our happiness
+depend upon him, and our lives belong to him--he made us, and he can
+destroy us.
+
+"My great Father,--some of your good chiefs, as they are called
+(missionaries), have proposed to send some of their good people among us
+to change our habits, to make us work for them, and live like the white
+people. I will not tell a lie--I am going to tell the truth. You love your
+country--you love your people--you love the manner in which they live, and
+you think your people brave. I am like you, my great Father; I love my
+country--I love my people--I love the manner in which we live, and think
+myself and warriors brave.[22] Spare me then, my Father; let me enjoy my
+country, and pursue the buffalo and the beaver, and the other wild animals
+of our country, and I will trade their skins with your people. I have
+grown up and lived thus long without work--I am in hopes you will suffer
+me to die without it. We have plenty of buffalo, beaver, deer, and other
+wild animals--we have also an abundance of horses--we have every thing we
+want--we have plenty of land, _if you will keep your people off it_. My
+Father has a piece on which he lives (Council bluffs), and we wish him to
+enjoy it--we have enough without it--but we wish him to live near us, to
+give us good council--to keep our ears and eyes open, that we may continue
+to pursue the right road--the road to happiness. He settles all
+differences between us and the whites, between the red-skins
+themselves--he makes the whites do justice to the red-skins, and he makes
+the red-skins do justice to the whites. He saves the effusion of human
+blood, and restores peace and happiness in the land. You have already sent
+us a father (Major O'Fallon); it is enough--he knows us, and we know
+him--we keep our eye constantly upon him, and since we have heard _your_
+words, we will listen more attentively to _his_.
+
+"It is too soon, my great Father, to send those good chiefs amongst us.
+_We are not starving yet_--we wish you to permit us to enjoy the chase
+until the game of our country is exhausted--until the wild animals become
+extinct. Let us exhaust our present resources before you make us toil and
+interrupt our happiness. Let me continue to live as I have done; and after
+I have passed to the good or evil spirit, from off the wilderness of my
+present life, the subsistence of my children may become so precarious as
+to need and embrace the assistance of those good people.
+
+"There was a time when we did not know the whites--our wants were then
+fewer than they are now. They were always within our control--we had then
+seen nothing which we could not get. Before our intercourse with the
+whites (who have caused such a destruction in our game) we could lie down
+to sleep, and when we awoke we would find the buffalo feeding around our
+camp--but now we are killing them for their skins, and feeding the wolves
+with their flesh, to make our children cry over their bones.
+
+"Here, my great Father, is a pipe which I present to you, as I am
+accustomed to present pipes to all the Red-skins in peace with us. It is
+filled with such tobacco as we were accustomed to smoke before we knew
+the white people. It is pleasant, and the spontaneous growth of the most
+remote parts of our country. I know that the robes, leggings, and
+moccasins, and bear-claws are of little value to _you_; but we wish you to
+have them deposited and preserved in some conspicuous part of your lodge,
+so that when we are gone and the sod turned over our bones, if our
+children should visit this place, as we do now, they may see and recognize
+with pleasure the depositories of their fathers; and reflect on the times
+that are past."
+
+I shall now take leave of the Indians and their political condition, by
+observing that the proceedings of the American government, throughout,
+towards this brave but unfortunate race, have only been exceeded in
+atrocity by the past and present conduct of the East India government
+towards the pusillanimous but unoffending Hindoos.
+
+    _Note_.--This chapter I wrote during my stay in Kentucky, and the
+    first part of it, in substance, was inserted in the "Kentucky
+    Intelligencer," at the request of the talented editor and
+    proprietor, John Mullay, Esq.
+
+FOOTNOTES:
+
+[15] In November, 1785, during the articles of confederation, a treaty is
+concluded with the Cherokees, which establishes a boundary, and allots to
+the Indians a great extent of country, now within the limits of North
+Carolina and Georgia.
+
+In 1791, the treaty of Holston is concluded; by which a new boundary is
+agreed upon. This was the first treaty made by the United States under
+their present constitution; and by the seventh article, a solemn
+guarantee is given for all the lands not then ceded.
+
+On the 7th of February, 1792, by an additional article to the last
+treaty, 500 dollars are added to the stipulated annuity.
+
+In June, 1794, another treaty is entered into, in which the provisions of
+the treaty of 1791 are revived, an addition is made to the annuity, and
+provision made for marking the boundary line.
+
+In October, 1798, a treaty is concluded which revives former treaties,
+and curtails the boundary of Indian lands by a cession to the United
+States, for an additional compensation.
+
+In October, 1804, a treaty is concluded, by which, for a consideration
+specified, more land is ceded.
+
+In October, 1805, two treaties are made, by which an additional quantity
+of land is ceded.
+
+On 7th January, 1806, by another treaty, more land is ceded to the United
+States.
+
+In September, 1807, the boundary line intended in the last treaty, is
+satisfactorily ascertained.
+
+On 22d March, 1816, a treaty is concluded, by which lands in South
+Carolina are ceded, for which the United States engage South Carolina
+shall pay. On the same day another treaty is made, by which the Indians
+agree to allow the use of the water-courses in their country, and also to
+permit roads to be made through the same.
+
+On the 14th of September, 1816, a treaty is made, by which an additional
+quantity of land is ceded to the United States.
+
+On the 8th of July, 1817, a treaty is concluded, by which an exchange of
+lands is agreed on, and a plan for dividing the Cherokees settled.
+
+On the 27th of February, 1819, another treaty is concluded, in execution
+of the stipulations contained in that of 1817, in several particulars,
+and in which an additional tract of country is ceded to the United
+States.
+
+[16] "The white hunter, on encamping in his journeys, cuts down green
+trees, and builds a large fire of long logs, sitting at some distance
+from it. The Indian hunts up a few dry limbs, cracks them into little
+pieces a foot in length, builds a small fire, and sits close to it. He
+gets as much warmth as the white hunter without half the labour, and does
+not burn more than a fiftieth part of the wood. The Indian considers the
+forest his own, and is careful in using and preserving every thing which
+it affords. He never kills more than he has occasion for. The white
+hunter destroys all before him, and cannot resist the opportunity of
+killing game, although he neither wants the meat nor can carry the skins.
+I was particularly struck with this wanton practice, which lately
+occurred on White river. A hunter returning from the woods, heavily laden
+with the flesh and skins of five bears, unexpectedly arrived in the midst
+of a drove of buffalos, and wantonly shot down three, having no other
+object than the sport of killing them. This is one of the causes
+of the enmity existing between the white and red hunters of
+Missouri".--_Schoolcroft's Tour in Missouri_, page 52.
+
+[17] Does the General include among the arts of civilization, that of
+systematically robbing the Indians of their farms and hunting grounds? If
+so, no doubt _these arts of civilization_, must inevitably "destroy the
+resources of the savage," and "doom him to weakness and decay."
+
+[18] The Indians apply the term "Christian honesty," precisely in the
+same sense that the Romans applied "_Punica fides_."
+
+[19] There is an old Indian at present in the Missouri territory, to whom
+his tribe has given the cognomen of "much-water," from the circumstance
+of his having been baptized so frequently.
+
+[20] Heriot says (page 320), "They have evinced a decided attachment to
+their ancient habits, and have _gained_ less from the means that might
+have smoothed the asperities of their condition, than they have _lost_ by
+copying the vices of those, who exhibited to their view the arts of
+civilization."
+
+[21] This letter was dictated by Red-jacket, and interpreted by Henry
+Obeal, in the presence of ten chiefs, whose names are affixed, at
+Canandaigua, January 18, 1821.
+
+[22] "The attachment which savages entertain for their mode of life
+supersedes every allurement, however powerful, to change it. Many
+Frenchmen have lived with them, and have imbibed such an invincible
+partiality for that independent and erratic condition, that no means
+could prevail on them to abandon it. On the contrary, no single instance
+has yet occurred of a savage being able to reconcile himself to a state
+of civilization. Infants have been taken from among the natives, and
+educated with much care in France, where they could not possibly have
+intercourse with their countrymen and relations. Although they had
+remained several years in that country, and could not form the smallest
+idea of the wilds of America, the force of blood predominated over that
+of education: no sooner did they find themselves at liberty than they
+tore their clothes in pieces, and went to traverse the forests in search
+of their countrymen, whose mode of life appeared to them far more
+agreeable than that which they had led among the French."--_-Heriot_, p.
+354.
+
+This passage of Heriot's is taken nearly verbatim from Charlevoix, v. 2,
+p. 109.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER X.
+
+
+I left Kentucky, and passed up the river to Wheeling, in Virginia. There
+is little worthy of observation encountered in a passage up this part of
+the Ohio, except the peculiar character of the stream, which has been
+before alluded to. At Marietta, at the mouth of the Muskingum,
+ship-building is carried on; and vessels have been constructed at
+Pittsburg, full 2000 miles from the gulf of Mexico. About seventy miles up
+the Kenhawa river, in Virginia, are situated the celebrated salt springs,
+the most productive of any in the Union. They are at present in the
+possession of a chartered company, which limits the manufacture to
+800,000 bushels annually, but it is estimated that the fifty-seven wells
+are capable of yielding 50,000 bushels each, per annum, which would make
+an aggregate of 2,850,000 bushels. Many of these springs issue out of
+rocks, and the water is so strongly impregnated with salt, that from 90 to
+130 gallons yield a bushel. The whole western country bordering the Ohio
+and its tributaries, is supplied with salt from these works.
+
+Wheeling, although not large, enjoys a considerable share of commercial
+intercourse, being an entrepôt for eastern merchandize, which is
+transported from the Atlantic cities across the mountains to this town and
+Pittsburg, and from thence by water to the different towns along the
+rivers.
+
+The process of "hauling" merchandize from Baltimore and Philadelphia to
+the banks of the Ohio, and _vice versâ_, is rather tedious, the roads
+lying across steep and rugged mountains. Large covered waggons, light and
+strong, drawn by five or six horses, two and two, are employed for this
+purpose. The waggoner always rides the near shaft horse, and guides the
+team by means of reins, a whip, and his voice. The time generally consumed
+in one of these journeys is from twenty to twenty-five days.
+
+All the mountains or hills on the upper part of the Ohio, from Wheeling to
+Pittsburg, contain immense beds of coal; this added to the mineral
+productions, particularly that of iron ore, which abound in this section
+of country, offers advantages for manufacturing, which are of considerable
+importance, and are fully appreciated. Pittsburg is called the Birmingham
+of America. Some of those coal beds are well circumstanced, the coal being
+found immediately under the super-stratum, and the galleries frequently
+running out on the high road. Notwithstanding the local advantages, and
+the protection and encouragement at present afforded by the tariff,
+England need never fear any extensive competition with her manufactures
+in foreign markets from America, as the high spirit of the people of that
+country will always prevent them from pursuing, extensively, the sordid
+occupations of the loom or the workshop.
+
+The upper parts of Virginia and Pennsylvania are in a high state of
+improvement; the land is hilly, and the face of the country picturesque.
+The farms are well cultivated, and there is a large portion of pasture
+land in this and the adjoining states. I encountered several large droves
+of horses and black cattle on their way to the neighbourhood of
+Philadelphia and to the state of New York. The black cattle are purchased
+principally in Ohio, whence they are brought into the Atlantic states, to
+be fattened and consumed. The farmers and their families in Pennsylvania,
+have an appearance of comfort and respectability a good deal resembling
+that of the substantial English yeoman; yet farming here, as in all parts
+of the country, is a laborious occupation.
+
+I crossed the Monongahela at Williamsport, and the Youghaghany at
+Robstown, and so on through Mountpleasant to the first ridge of mountains,
+called "the chestnut ridge." I determined on crossing the mountains on
+foot; and after having made arrangements to that effect, I commenced
+sauntering along the road. Near Mountpleasant, I stopped to dine at the
+house of a Dutchman by descent. After dinner, the party adjourned, as is
+customary, to the bar-room, when divers political and polemical topics
+were canvassed with the usual national warmth. An account of his late
+Majesty's death was inserted in a Philadelphia paper, and happened to be
+noticed by one of the politicians present, when the landlord asked me how
+we elected our king in England. I replied that he was not elected, but
+that he became king by birthright, &c. A Kentuckian observed, placing his
+leg on the back of the next chair, "That's a kind of unnatural." An
+Indianian said, "I don't believe in that system myself." A third--"Do you
+mean to tell me, that because the last king was a smart man and knew his
+duty, that his son, or his brother, should be a smart man, and fit for the
+situation?" I explained that we had a premier, ministers, &c.;--when the
+last gentleman replied, "Then you pay half-a-dozen men to do one man's
+business. Yes--yes--that may do for Englishmen very well; but, I guess, it
+would not go down here--no, no, Americans are a little more enlightened
+than to stand that kind of wiggery." During this conversation, a person
+had stepped into the room, and had taken his seat in silence. I was about
+to reply to the last observations of my antagonist, when this gentleman
+opened out, with, "yes! that may do for Englishmen very well"--he was an
+Englishman, I knew at once by his accent, and I verily believe the
+identical radical who set the village of Bracebridge by the ears, and
+pitched the villagers to the devil, on seeing them grin through a
+horse-collar, when they should have been calculating the interest of the
+national debt, or conning over the list of sinecure placemen. He held in
+his hand, instead of "Cobbett's Register," the "Greenville
+Republican."--He had substituted for his short-sleeved coat, "a
+round-about."--He seemed to have put on flesh, and looked somewhat more
+contented. "Yes, yes," he says, "that may do for Englishmen very well, but
+it won't do here. Here we make our own laws, and we keep them too. It may
+do for Englishmen very well, to have _the liberty_ of paying taxes for the
+support of the nobility. To have _the liberty_ of being incarcerated in a
+gaol, for shooting the wild animals of the country. To have _the liberty_
+of being seized by a press-gang, torn away from their wives and families,
+and flogged at the discretion of my lord Tom, Dick, or Harry's bastard."
+At this, the Kentuckian gnashed his teeth, and instinctively grasped his
+hunting-knife;--an old Indian doctor, who was squatting in one corner of
+the room, said, slowly and emphatically, as his eyes glared, his nostrils
+dilated, and his lip curled with contempt--"The Englishman is a
+dog"--while a Georgian slave, who stood behind his master's chair, grinned
+and chuckled with delight, as he said--"_poor_ Englishman, him meaner man
+den black nigger."--"To have," continued the Englishman, "_the liberty_ of
+being transported for seven years for being caught learning the use of the
+sword or the musket. To have the tenth lamb, and the tenth sheaf seized,
+or the blanket torn from off his bed, to pay a bloated, a plethoric bishop
+or parson,--to be kicked and cuffed about by a parcel of 'Bourbon
+_gendarmerie_'--Liberty!--why hell sweat"--here I--slipped out at the side
+door into the water-melon patch. As I receded, I heard the whole party
+burst out into an obstreperous fit of laughter.--A few broken sentences,
+from the Kentuckian and the radical, reached my ear, such as "backed
+out"--"damned aristocratic." I returned in about half an hour to pay my
+bill, when I could observe one or two of those doughty politicians who
+remained, leering at me most significantly. However, I--"smiled, and said
+nothing."
+
+"The Chestnut ridge" is a chain of rocky, barren mountains, covered with
+wood, and the ascent is steep and difficult. It is named from the quantity
+of chestnut trees that compose the bulk of its timber. Being a little
+fatigued in ascending, I sat down in a wood of scrub oak. When I had been
+some time seated on a large stone, my ear caught the gliding of a snake.
+Turning quickly, I perceived, at about a yard's distance, a reptile of
+that beautiful species the rattle-snake. He ceased moving: I jumped up,
+and struck at his head with a stick, but missed the blow. He instantly
+coiled and rattled. I now retreated beyond the range of his spring.
+Perceiving that I had no intention of giving him fair play by coming
+within his reach, he suddenly uncoiled and glid across a log, thinking to
+make good his retreat; but being determined on having--not his scalp, for
+the head of a rattle-snake is rather a dangerous toy--but his rattle, I
+pursued him across the log. He now coiled again, and rattled most
+furiously, thus indicating his extreme wrath at being attacked: the bite
+of this reptile is most venomous when he is most enraged. I took up a flat
+stone, about six inches square, and lobbed it on his coil. He suddenly
+darted out towards me; but, as I had anticipated, he was encumbered with
+the stone. I now advanced, and struck him on the head with my stick. I
+repeated the blow until he seemed to be deprived of sensation, when I drew
+my hunting knife and decapitated him. For a full hour afterwards the body
+retained all the vigour and sensitiveness which it possessed previous to
+decapitation, and on touching any part of it, would twist round in the
+same manner as when the animal was perfect. Sensation gradually
+disappeared, departing first from the extremities--more towards the
+wounded extremity than towards the other, but gradually from both, until
+it was entirely gone. The length of this reptile was about four feet, and
+the skin was extremely beautiful. Nothing could exceed the beauty of his
+eye. A clear black lustre characterizes the eye of this animal, and is
+said to produce so powerful an effect on birds and smaller animals, as to
+deprive them of the power of escaping. This snake had eight rattles, so
+that he must have been at least eleven years old. I understood afterwards
+that there was a rattle-snakes' den in the neighbourhood. They appear to
+live in society, and the large quantities that are frequently found
+congregated together are astonishing. The Jacksonville (Illinois) Gazette
+of the 22d April, 1830, says, "Last week, a den of rattle-snakes was
+discovered near Apple Creek, by a person while engaged in digging for rock
+in that part of our country. He made known the circumstance to the
+neighbours, who visited the place, where they killed 193 rattle-snakes,
+the largest of which (as our informant, who was on the spot, told us)
+measured nearly four feet in length. Besides these, there were sixteen
+black snakes destroyed, together with one copper-head. Counting the young
+ones, there were upwards of 1000 killed." There are two species of
+rattle-snake, which are in constant hostility with each other. The common
+black snake, whose bite is perfectly innoxious, and the copper-head, have
+also a deadly enmity towards the rattle-snake, which, when they meet it,
+they never fail to attack.
+
+The next ridge of mountains is called the "laurel hills," which are
+covered with an immense growth of different species of laurel. Between
+these and the Alleghany ridge are situated "the glades"--beautiful fertile
+plains in a high state of cultivation. This district is most healthy, and
+fevers and agues are unknown to the inhabitants. Here the "Delawares of
+the hills" once roamed the sole lords of this fine country; and perhaps
+from the very eminence from whence I contemplated the beauty of the scene,
+some warrior, returning from the "war path" or the chase, may have gazed
+with pleasure on the hills of his fathers, the possessions of a long line
+of Sylvan heros, and in the pride of manhood said--'The Delawares are
+men--they are strong in battle, and cunning on the trail of their foes--at
+the 'council fire' there is wisdom in their words. Who counts more scalps
+than the Lenni Lenapé warrior?--he can never be conquered--the stranger
+shall never dwell in his glades.' Where now is the "Delaware of the
+hills?"--gone!--his very name is unknown in his own land, and not a
+vestige remains to tell that _there_ once dwelt a great and powerful
+tribe. When the white man falls, his high towers and lofty battlements are
+laid crumbling with the dust, yet these mighty ruins remain for ages,
+monuments of his former greatness: but the Indian passes away, silent as
+the noiseless tread of the moccasin--the next snow comes, and his "trail"
+is blotted out for ever.
+
+I toiled across the Alleghanies, which are completely covered with timber,
+and passed on to a place within about thirty miles of Chambersburg, on a
+branch of the Potomac. Here, coming in upon _civilization_, I took the
+stage to Baltimore. In my pedestrian excursion the road lay for several
+miles along the banks of the Juniata, which is a very fine river. The
+scenery is romantic, and is much beautified by a large growth of
+magnificent pines. The Alleghany ridge is composed chiefly of sand-stone,
+clay-slate, and lime-stone-slate, sand-stone sometimes in large blocks.
+
+I encountered several parties of French, Irish, Swiss, Bavarians, Dutch,
+&c. going westward, with swarms of children, and considerable quantities
+of household lumber:--symptoms of seeking _El dorado_.
+
+In the neighbourhood of Baltimore there are many handsome residences, and
+the farms are all well cleared, and in many cases walled in. The number of
+comparatively miserable-looking cabins which are dispersed along the road
+near this town, and the long lists of crimes and misdemeanours with which
+the Journals of Baltimore and Philadelphia are filled, sufficiently
+indicate that these cities have arrived to an advanced state of
+civilization. For, wherever there are very rich people, there must be very
+poor people; and wherever there are very poor people, there must
+necessarily exist a proportionate quantity of crime. Men are poor, only
+because they are ignorant; for if they possessed a knowledge of their own
+powers and capabilities, they would then know, that however wealth may be
+distributed, all real wealth is created by labour, and by labour alone.
+
+Baltimore is seated on the north side of the Patapsco river, within a few
+miles of the Chesapeak bay. It received its name in compliment to the
+Irish family of the Calverts. The harbour, at Fell Point, has about
+eighteen feet water, and is defended by a strong fort, called Mc Henry's
+fort, on Observation Hill. Vessels of large tonnage cannot enter the
+basin. In 1791 it contained 13,503 inhabitants; in 1810, 46,487; and at
+present it contains 80,519. There are many fine buildings and monuments in
+this city; and the streets in which business is not extensively
+transacted, are planted with Lombardy poplar, locust, and pride-of-china
+trees,--the last mentioned especially afford a fine shade.
+
+A considerable schooner trade is carried on by the merchants of Baltimore
+with South America. The schooners of this port are celebrated for their
+beauty, and are much superior to those of any other port on the Continent.
+They are sharp built, somewhat resembling the small Greek craft one sees
+in the Mediterranean. A rail-road is being constructed from this place to
+the Ohio river, a distance of upwards of three hundred miles, and about
+fourteen miles of the road is already completed, as is also a viaduct. If
+the enterprising inhabitants of Baltimore be able to finish this
+undertaking, it must necessarily throw a very large amount of wealth into
+their hands, to the prejudice of Philadelphia and New York. But the
+expense will be enormous.
+
+I left Baltimore for Philadelphia in one of those splendid and spacious
+steam-boats peculiar to this country. We paddled up the Chesapeak bay
+until we came to Elk river--the scenery at both sides is charming. A
+little distance up this river commences the "Chesapeak and Delaware
+canal," which passes through the old state of Delaware, and unites the
+waters of the two bays. Here we were handed into a barge, or what we in
+common parlance would term a large canal boat; but the Americans are the
+fondest people in the universe of big names, and ransack the Dictionary
+for the most pompous appellations with which to designate their works or
+productions. The universal fondness for European titles that obtains here,
+is also remarkable. The president, is "his excellency,"--"congressmen,"
+are "honorables,"--and every petty merchant, or "dry-goods store-keeper,"
+is, at least, an esquire. Their newspapers contain many specimens of this
+love of monarchical distinctions--such as, "wants a situation, as
+store-keeper (shopman), a gentleman, &c." "Two gentlemen were convicted
+and sentenced to six months' imprisonment for horse-stealing, &c." These
+two items I read myself in the papers of the western country, and the
+latter was commented on by a Philadelphia journal. You may frequently see
+"Miss Amanda," without shoes or stockings--certainly for convenience or
+economy, not from necessity, and generally in Dutch houses--and "that
+_ere_ young lady" scouring the pails! An accident lately occurred in one
+of the factories in New England, and the local paper stated, that "one
+young lady was seriously injured,"--this young lady was a spinner.
+Observe, I by no means object to the indiscriminate use of the terms
+_gentleman_ and _lady_, but merely state the fact. On the contrary, so far
+am I from finding fault with the practice, that I think it quite fair;
+when any portion of republicans make use of terms which properly belong to
+a monarchy, that all classes should do the same, it being unquestionably
+their right. It does not follow, because a man may be introduced as an
+_American gentleman_, that he may not be simply a mechanic.
+
+The Chesapeak and Delaware canal is about fourteen miles in length; and
+from the nature of the soil through which it is cut, there was some
+difficulty attending the permanent security of the work. On reaching the
+Delaware, we were again handed into a steamer, and so conducted to
+Philadelphia. The merchant shipping, and the numerous pleasure and
+steam-boats, and craft of every variety, which are constantly moving on
+the broad bosom of the Delaware, present a gay and animated scene.
+
+Philadelphia is a regular well-built city, and one of the handsomest in
+the states. It lies in latitude 39° 56' north, and longitude, west of
+London, 75° 8'; distant from the sea, 120 miles. The city stands on an
+elevated piece of ground between the Schuylkill and Delaware rivers, about
+a mile broad from bank to bank, and six miles from their junction. The
+Delaware is about a mile wide at Philadelphia, and ships of the largest
+tonnage can approach the wharf. The city contains many fine buildings of
+Schuylkill marble. The streets are well paved, and have broad _trottoirs_
+of hard red brick. The police regulations are excellent, and cleanliness
+is much attended to, the kennels being washed daily during the summer
+months, with water from the reservoirs. The markets, or shambles, extend
+half-a-mile in length, from the wharf up Market-street, in six divisions.
+In addition to the shambles, farmers' waggons, loaded with every kind of
+country produce for sale, line the street.
+
+There are five banking establishments in the city: the Bank of North
+America, the United States Bank, the Bank of Pennsylvania, the Bank of
+Philadelphia, and the Farmers' Bank.
+
+The principal institutions are, the Franklin library, which contains
+upwards of 20,000 volumes. Strangers are admitted gratis, and are
+permitted to peruse any of the books. The Americans should adopt this
+practice in all their national exhibitions, and rather copy the liberality
+of the French than the sordid churlishness of the English, who compel
+foreigners to pay even for seeing the property of the nation. The other
+institutions are, the University of Pennsylvania, a College, Medical
+Theatre, College of Physicians, Philosophical Hall, Agricultural and
+Linnean Societies, Academy of Fine Arts, and the Cincinnati Society, which
+originated in an attempt to establish a sort of aristocracy. The members
+were at its formation the surviving officers of the revolution; they wear
+an eagle, suspended by a ribbon, which, at their death, they have
+appointed to be taken by their eldest sons. There are besides, the
+Academies of the Philadelphian Friends, and the German Lutherans; Sunday
+and Lancasterian schools; and, of course, divers Bible and Tract
+Societies, which are patronized by all the antiquated dames in the city,
+and superintended by the Methodist and Presbyterian parsons. The Methodist
+parsons of this country have the character of being men of gallantry; and
+indeed, from the many instances I have heard of their propensity in this
+way, from young Americans, I should be a very sceptic to doubt the fact.
+
+There are also St. George's, St. Patrick's, St. David's, and St. Andrew's
+Societies for the relief and colonization of British emigrants; a French
+and a German Emigrant Society, and several hospitals. There are two
+theatres and an amphitheatre. Peal's Museum contains a large collection,
+which is scientifically arranged; among other fossils is the perfect
+skeleton of a mammoth, found in a bed of marle in the state of New York.
+The length of this animal, from the bend of the tusks to the rump, was
+about twenty-seven feet, and the height and bulk proportionate.
+
+The navy-yard contains large quantities of timber, spars, and rigging,
+prepared for immediate use, as also warlike stores of every description.
+There is here, a ship of 140 guns, of large calibre, and a frigate. Both
+are housed completely, and in a condition to be launched in a few months,
+if necessary. They are constructed of the very best materials, and in the
+most durable and solid manner. There are now being constructed, seriatim,
+twenty-five ships of the line--one for every state in the Union. The
+government occasionally sells the smaller vessels of war to merchants, in
+order to increase the shipping, and to secure that those armed vessels
+which are afloat, may be in the finest possible condition. A corvette,
+completely equipped, was lately sold to his majesty the autocrat of the
+Russias; but was dismasted in a day or two after her departure from
+Charleston. She was taken in tow by the vessel of a New York merchant, and
+carried into the port of that city. The merchant refused any compensation
+from the Russian minister, although his vessel was, when she fell in with
+the wreck, proceeding to the Austral regions, and her putting about was
+greatly disadvantageous. The minister returned thanks publicly, on the
+part of his master, and expressed his majesty's sense of the invariable
+consideration and friendship with which his majesty's subjects are treated
+by the citizens of America. There appears to be a universal wish among the
+Americans to cultivate an alliance, offensive and defensive, with his
+majesty of Russia. The cry is, "all the Russians want is a fleet, and
+we'll lend them that." In fact, a deadly animosity pervades America
+towards Great Britain; and although it is not publicly confessed, for the
+Americans are too able politicians to do that, yet it is no less certain,
+that "_Delenda est Carthago_," is their motto. Let England look to it. Her
+power is great; but, if the fleets of America, France, and Russia, were to
+combine, and land on the shores of England hordes of Russians, and
+battalions of disciplined Frenchmen--if this were to be done, with the
+Irish people, instead of allies as they should be, her deadly enemies, her
+power is annihilated at a blow! For let it be remembered, that there is no
+rallying principle in the temperament of the mass of the English people;
+and that formerly one single victory,--the victory of Hastings, completely
+subjugated them. Hume, who was decidedly an impartial historian, is
+compelled to say of that conquest, "It would be difficult to find in all
+history a revolution more destructive, or attended with a more complete
+subjection of the ancient inhabitants. Contumely seems even to have been
+wantonly added to oppression; and the natives were universally reduced to
+such a state of meanness and poverty, that the English name became a term
+of reproach; and several generations elapsed before one family of Saxon
+pedigree was raised to any considerable honours, or could so much as
+obtain the rank of baron of the realm."--Yet the English people owe much
+to the ancestors of the aristocracy, who introduced among them the arts
+and refinements of civilization, and by their wisdom and disciplined
+valour have raised the country to that pitch of greatness, so justly
+termed "the envy of surrounding nations." I do not contend, that because a
+nation may have acquired the name of great, that therefore _the people_
+are more happy; but am rather inclined to think the contrary, for
+conquests are generally made and wealth is accumulated for the benefit of
+the few, and at the expense of the many.
+
+A law has been lately passed by the legislature of Pennsylvania, taxing
+wholesale and retail dealers in merchandize, excepting those importers of
+foreign goods who vend the articles in the form in which they are
+imported. This act classes the citizens according to their annual amount
+of sales, and taxes them in the same proportion. Those who effect sales to
+the amount of fifty thousand dollars, constitute the first class; of forty
+thousand dollars, the second class; of thirty thousand dollars, the third
+class; of twenty thousand dollars, the fourth class; of fifteen thousand
+dollars, the fifth class; of ten thousand dollars, the sixth class; of
+five thousand dollars, the seventh class; and all persons effecting sales
+not exceeding two thousand five hundred dollars, constitute the eighth
+class. The first class shall pay for license, annually, fifty dollars; the
+second class, forty dollars; the third class, thirty dollars; the fourth
+class, twenty-five dollars; the fifth class, twenty dollars; the sixth
+class, fifteen dollars; the seventh class, twelve dollars and fifty cents,
+and the eighth class ten dollars.
+
+Direct taxation has been found in all cases to be obnoxious, and this
+particular mode, I apprehend, is calculated to produce very pernicious
+effects. The laws of a republic should all tend to establish and support,
+as far as is practicable, the principle of equality, and any act that has
+a contrary tendency must be injurious to the community. Now this act draws
+a direct line of demarcation between citizens, in proportion to the extent
+of their dealings; and as in this country a man's importance is entirely
+estimated by his supposed wealth, the citizens of Pennsylvania can
+henceforth only claim a share of respectability, proportionate to the
+_class_ to which they belong. The west country ladies have shewn a great
+aptitude for forming "circles of society," and the promulgation of this
+law affords them a most powerful aid in establishing a _store-keeping
+aristocracy_.
+
+The large cities in America are by no means so lightly taxed as might be
+supposed from the cheapness of the government; the public works, public
+buildings, and police establishments, requiring adequate funds for their
+maintenance and support; however, the inhabitants have the consolation of
+knowing that this must gradually decrease, and that their money is laid
+out for their own advantage, and not for the purpose of pensioning off the
+mistresses and physicians of viceroys, as in Ireland.[23] Another thing is
+to be observed, that in addition to the _national_ debt, each state has a
+_private_ debt, which in many cases is tolerably large. These debts have
+been created by expenditures on roads, canals, and public buildings. The
+mode of taxation latterly adopted by the legislature is not popular, and
+many of the public prints have remonstrated against the system. "The
+Philadelphia Gazette," of the 24th Sept. 1830, makes the following
+remarks--"The subject of unequal and oppressive taxation deserves more
+attention than it has hitherto received from our citizens. The misery of
+England is occasioned less by the amount of revenue that is raised there,
+than by the manner in which it is raised. In Pennsylvania we are going on
+rapidly, making our state a second England in regard of debt and taxation.
+Our public debt is already 13,000,000 dollars; and before our canals and
+rail-roads shall be completed, it will probably amount to 18 or 20
+millions. The law imposing taxes of 10, 20, 30, 40 and 50 dollars on
+retailers, is not the only just subject of complaint. The _collateral
+inheritance_ tax is equally unjust. The tavern-keepers are besides to be
+taxed from 20 to 50 dollars each. Nor does the matter end here. At the
+next session of the legislature, it will, in all probability, be found
+necessary to lay on additional taxes: and when the principle of unjust
+taxation is once admitted in legislation, it is difficult to say how far
+it will be carried."
+
+Whilst staying at Philadelphia an account of the French revolution
+arrived, and the merchants, there and at New York, were in high spirits,
+thinking that war was inevitable. A war in Europe is always hailed with
+delight in America, as it opens a field for commercial enterprise, and
+gives employment to the shipping, of which at present they are much in
+need.
+
+During the long and ruinous war in Europe, the mercantile and shipping
+interests of the United States advanced with an unexampled degree of
+rapidity. The Americans were then the carriers of nearly all Europe, and
+scarcely any merchandize entered the ports of the belligerent powers, but
+in American bottoms. This unnatural state of prosperity could not last:
+peace was established, and from that era the decline of commerce in the
+United States may be dated. The merchants seem not to have calculated on
+this event's so soon taking place, or to have overrated the increase of
+prosperity and population in their own country, as up to that period, and
+for some years afterwards, there does appear to have been no relaxation of
+ship-building, and little diminution of mercantile speculations. At
+present the ship-owners are realizing little beyond the expenses of their
+vessels, and in many cases the bottoms are actually in debt. The frequent
+failures in the Atlantic cities, of late, are mainly to be attributed to
+unsuccessful ship speculations; and I am myself aware of more than one
+instance, where the freight was so extremely low, as to do little more
+than cover the expenditure of the voyage. On my return to Europe, while
+staying at Marseilles, twelve American vessels arrived in that port within
+the space of two months; and before my departure, nine of these returned
+to the United States with ballast (stones), and I believe only two with
+full cargos.
+
+In a national point of view, the difficulty of obtaining employment for
+the shipping of America may not have been so injurious as at first view
+it appears to be; on the contrary, I am of opinion that it has been
+advantageous. Whilst a profitable trade could with facility be carried on
+with and in Europe, the merchants seldom thought of extending their
+enterprises to any other parts of the world; but since the decline of that
+trade, communications have been opened with the East Indies, Africa, all
+the ports of the Mediterranean, and voyages to the Pacific, and to the
+Austral regions, are now of common occurrence. The museums in the Atlantic
+cities bear ample testimony to the enterprising character of the American
+merchants, which by their means are filled with all the curious and
+interesting productions of the East. This has encouraged a taste for
+scientific studies, and for travelling; which must ultimately tend to
+raise the nation to a degree of respectability little inferior to the
+oldest European state.
+
+FOOTNOTES:
+
+[23] An Irish viceroy lately paid his physician by conferring on him a
+baronetcy, and a pension of two hundred pounds a year, of the public
+money.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XI.
+
+
+Having sojourned for more than three weeks at Philadelphia, I departed for
+New York. The impressions made on my mind during that time were highly
+favourable to the Philadelphians and their city. It is the handsomest city
+in the Union; and the inhabitants, in sociability and politeness, have
+much the advantage of any other body of people with whom I came in
+contact.
+
+The steamer takes you up the Delaware river to Bordentown, in New Jersey,
+twenty-four miles from Philadelphia. The country at either side is in a
+high state of cultivation. It is interspersed with handsome country seats,
+and on the whole presents a most charming prospect. There is scarcely a
+single point passed up the windings of the Delaware, but presents a new
+and pleasing variety of landscape--luxuriant foliage--gently swelling
+hills, and fertile lawns; which last having been lately mown, were covered
+with a rich green sward most pleasing to the eye. The banks of the river
+at Bordentown are high, and the town, as seen from the water, has a pretty
+effect. Here a stage took us across New Jersey to Amboy. This is not a
+large town, nor can it ever be of much importance, being situated too near
+the cities of New York and Philadelphia. At Amboy we again took the
+steam-boat up the bay, and after a delightful sail of thirty miles,
+through scenery the most beautiful and magnificent, we arrived at New
+York.
+
+When I was at New York about fifteen months before, I was informed that
+the working classes were being organized into regular bodies, similar to
+the "union of trades" in England, for the purpose of retaining all
+political power in their own hands. This organization has taken place at
+the suggestion of Frances Wright, of whom I shall again have occasion to
+speak presently, and has succeeded to an astonishing extent. There are
+three or four different bodies of the "workies," as they call themselves
+familiarly, which vary somewhat from each other in their principles, and
+go different lengths in their attacks on the present institutions of
+society. There are those of them called "agrarians," who contend that
+there should be a law passed to prohibit individuals holding beyond a
+certain quantity of ground; and that at given intervals of time there
+should be an equal division of property throughout the land. This is the
+most ultra, and least numerous class; the absurdity of whose doctrines
+must ultimately destroy them as a body. Various handbills and placards may
+be seen posted about the city, calling meetings of these unions. Some of
+those handbills are of a most extraordinary character indeed. I shall
+here insert a copy of one, which I took off a wall, and have now in my
+possession. It may serve to illustrate the character of those clubs.
+
+THE CAUSE OF THE POOR.
+
+The Mechanics and other working men of the city of New York, and
+of _these_ such and such only as live by their own useful
+industry, who wish to retain all political power in their own
+hands;
+
+WHO ARE IN FAVOUR OF                 AND WHO ARE OPPOSED TO
+
+A just compensation for labour,      Banks and Bankers,
+
+Abolishing imprisonment for debt,    Auctions and Auctioneers,
+
+An efficient lien law,               Monopolies and
+
+A general system of education;       Monopolists of all descriptions,
+  including food, clothing
+  and instruction, equal for all,    Brokers,
+  at the public expense, _without
+  separation of children from_       Lawyers, and
+  _parents,_
+                                     Rich men for office, and to all
+Exemption from sale by execution,      those, either rich or poor,
+  of mechanics' tools and              who favour them,
+  implements sufficiently
+  extensive to enable them to        Exemption of Property from
+  carry on business:                   Taxation:
+
+
+Are invited to assemble at the Wooster-street Military Hall, on
+Thursday evening next, 16th Sept., at eight o'clock, to select by
+Ballot, from among the persons proposed on the 6th Instant,
+Candidates for Governor, Lieutenant-Governor, Senator, and a New
+Committee of Fifty, and to propose Candidates for Register, for
+Members of Congress, and for Assembly.
+
+By order of the Committee of Fifty.
+
+JOHN R. SOPER, _Chairman_. JOHN TUTHILL, _Secretary_.
+
+So far for the "Workies;" and now for Miss Wright. If I understand this
+lady's principles correctly, they are strictly Epicurean. She contends,
+that mankind have nothing whatever to do with any but this tangible
+world;--that the sole and only legitimate pursuit of man, is terrestrial
+happiness;--that looking forward to an ideal state of existence, diverts
+his attention from the pleasures of this life--destroys all real sympathy
+towards his fellow-creatures, and renders him callous to their sufferings.
+However different the _theories_ of other systems may be, she contends
+that the _practice_ of the world, in all ages and generations, shews that
+this is the _effect_ of their inculcation. These are alarming doctrines;
+and when this lady made her _debût_ in public, the journals contended that
+their absurdity was too gross to be of any injury to society, and that in
+a few months, if she continued lecturing, it would be to empty benches.
+
+The editor of "The New York Courier and Enquirer" and she have been in
+constant enmity, and have never failed denouncing each other when
+opportunity offered. Miss Wright sailed from New York for France, where
+she still remains, in the month of July, 1830; and previous to her
+departure delivered an address, on which "the New York Enquirer" makes the
+following observations:--
+
+"The parting address of Miss Wright at the Bowery Theatre, on Wednesday
+evening, was a singular _melange_ of politics and impiety--eloquence and
+irreligion--bold invective, and electioneering slang. The theatre was very
+much crowded, probably three thousand persons being present; and what was
+the most surprising circumstance of the whole, is the fact, that about
+_one half of the audience were females--respectable females_.
+
+"When Fanny first made her appearance in this city as a lecturer on the
+'new order of things,' she was very little visited by respectable females.
+At her first lecture in the Park Theatre, about half a dozen appeared; but
+these soon left the house. From that period till the present, we had not
+heard her speak in public; but her doctrines, and opinions, and
+philosophy, appear to have made much greater progress in the city than we
+ever dreamt of. Her fervid eloquence--her fine action--her _soprano-toned_
+voice--her bold and daring attacks upon all the present systems of
+society--and particularly upon priests, politicians, bankers, and
+aristocrats as she calls them, have raised a party around her of
+considerable magnitude, and of much fervour and enthusiasm."
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+"The present state of things in this city is, to say the least of it,
+very singular. A bold and eloquent woman lays siege to the very
+foundations of society--inflames and excites the public mind--declaims
+with vehemence against every thing religious and orderly, and directs the
+whole of her movements to accomplish the election of a ticket next fall,
+under the title of the 'working-man's ticket.'[24] She avows that her
+object is a thorough and radical reform and change in every relation of
+life--even the dearest and most sacred. Father, mother, husband, wife,
+son, and daughter, in all their delicate and endearing relationships, are
+to be swept away equally with clergymen, churches, banks, parties, and
+benevolent societies. Hundreds and hundreds of respectable families, by
+frequenting her lectures, give countenance and currency to these startling
+principles and doctrines. Nearly the whole newspaper press of the city
+maintain a death-like silence, while the great Red Harlot of Infidelity is
+madly and triumphantly stalking over the city, under the mantle of
+'working-men,' and making _rapid progress_ in her work of ruin. If a
+solitary newspaper raise a word in favour of public virtue and private
+morals, in defence of the rights, liberties, and property of the
+community, it is denounced with open bitterness by some, and secretly
+stabbed at by them who wish to pass for good citizens. Miss Wright says
+she leaves the city soon. This is a mere _ruse_ to call her followers
+around her. The effect of her lectures is already boasted of by her
+followers. 'Two years ago,' say they,--'_twenty persons_ could scarcely be
+found in New York who would openly avow infidelity--now we have _twenty
+thousand_.--Is not that something?'
+
+"We say it is something--something that will make the whole city think."
+
+On the day of my departure for Europe, is was announced to the merchants
+of New York, that the West India ports were opened to American vessels.
+
+This is a heavy blow to the interests of the British colonies; and it does
+not appear that even Great Britain _herself_ has received any equivalent
+for inflicting so serious an injury on a portion of the empire by no means
+unimportant. The Canadians and Nova Scotians found a market for their
+surplus produce in the West Indies, for which they took in return the
+productions of these islands--thus a reciprocal advantage was derived to
+the sister colonies. But now, from the proximity of the West Indies to the
+Atlantic cities of the United States, American produce will be poured into
+these markets, for which, in return, little else than specie will be
+brought back to the ports of the Republic.
+
+It may be said, that an equivalent has been obtained by the removal of
+restrictions hitherto laid on British shipping. This I deny is any thing
+like an equivalent, as the trade with America is carried on almost
+exclusively in American bottoms. I particularly noted at New Orleans,
+Baltimore, Philadelphia, and New York, the paucity of British vessels in
+those ports; and ascertained that it was the practice among American
+merchants, who it must be observed are nearly all extensive ship-owners,
+to withhold cargos, even at some inconvenience, from foreign vessels, and
+await the arrival of those of their own country. I do not positively
+assert that the ships of _any other_ nation are preferred to those of
+England; but, as far as my personal observations on that point have gone,
+I am strongly inclined to think that such is the fact.
+
+The mercantile and shipping interests of Great Britain must continue to
+decline, if the government suffers itself continually to be cajoled into
+measures of this nature, and effects treaties the advantages of which
+appear to be all on one side, and in lieu of its concessions receives no
+just equivalent; unless a little empty praise for "liberal policy" and
+"generosity," can be so termed. I am well aware that it may have been of
+some small advantage to the West Indies to be enabled to obtain their
+supplies from the United States; but with reference to the policy of the
+measure, I speak only of the empire at large. Nearly all the Canadians
+with whom I conversed, freely acknowledged that they have not shaken off
+the yoke of England, only because they enjoyed some advantages by their
+connexion with her: but as these are diminished, the ties become loosened,
+and at length will be found too weak to hold them any longer. Disputes
+have already arisen between the people and the government relative to
+church lands, which appropriations they contend are unjust and dishonest.
+
+No doubt the question of tariff duties on the raw material imported into
+England, is one of great delicacy as connected with the manufacturing
+interests of the country; yet it does appear to me, that a small duty
+might without injury be imposed on American cottons _imported in American
+bottoms_. This would afford considerable encouragement to the shipping of
+Great Britain and her colonies, and could by no means be injurious to the
+manufacturing interests. The cottons of the Levant have been latterly
+increasing in quantity, and a measure of this nature would be likely to
+promote their further and rapid increase; which is desirable, as it would
+leave us less dependent on America, than we now are, for the raw material.
+The shipping of America is not held by the cotton-growing states; and
+although the nationality of the southerns is no doubt great, yet their
+love of self-interest is much greater, and would always preponderate in
+their choice of vessels. It would be even better, if found necessary, to
+make some arrangement in the shape of draw-back, than that a nation which
+has imposed a duty on our manufactured goods, almost amounting to a
+prohibition, should reap so much advantage from our system of "liberal and
+generous" policy. I shall conclude these _rambling_ sketches by
+observing, that there are two things eminently remarkable in America: the
+one is, that every American from the highest to the lowest, thinks the
+Republican form of government _the best;_ and the other, that the
+seditious and rebellious of all countries become there the most peaceable
+and contented citizens.
+
+We sailed from New York on the 1st of October, 1830. The monotony of a sea
+voyage, with unscientific people, is tiresome beyond description. The
+journal of a single day is the history of a month. You rise in the
+morning, and having performed the necessary ablutions, mount on
+deck,--"Well Captain, how does she head?"--"South-east by east"--(our
+course is east by south).--"Bad, bad, Captain--two points off." You then
+promenade the quarter-deck, until the black steward arrests your
+progress--grins in your face, and announces breakfast. Down you go, and
+fall foul of ham, beef, _pommes de terre frites_, jonny-cakes, and _café
+sans lait;_ and generally, in despite of bad cooking and occasional
+lee-lurches, contrive to eat an enormous meal. Breakfast being despatched,
+you again go on deck--promenade--gaze on the clouds--then read a little,
+if perchance you have books with you--lean over the gunwale, watching the
+waves and the motion of the vessel; but the eternal water, clouds, and
+sky--sky, clouds, and water, produce a listlessness that nothing can
+overcome. In the Atlantic, a ship in sight is an object which arouses the
+attention of all on board--to speak one is an aera, and furnishes to the
+captain and mates a subject for the day's conversation. Thus situated, an
+occasional spell of squally weather is by no means uninteresting:--the
+lowering aspect of the sky--the foaming surges, which come rolling on,
+threatening to overwhelm the tall ship, and bury her in the fathomless
+abyss of the ocean--the laugh of the gallant tars, when a sea sweeps the
+deck and drenches them to the skin--all these incidents, united, rather
+amuse the voyager, and tend to dispel the inanity with which he is
+afflicted. During these periods, I have been for hours watching the
+motions of the "stormy petrel" (_procellaria pelagica_), called by
+sailors, "mother Carey's chickens." These birds are seldom seen in calm
+weather, but appear to follow the gale, and when it blows most heavily
+they are seen in greatest numbers. The colour is brown and white; the size
+about that of the swallow, whose motions oh the wing they resemble. They
+skim over the surface of the roughest sea, gliding up and down the
+undulations with astonishing swiftness. When they observe their prey, they
+descend flutteringly, and place the feet and the tips of the wings on the
+surface of the water. In this position I have seen many of them rest for
+five or six seconds, until they had completed the capture. The petrel is
+to be seen in all parts of the Atlantic, no matter how distant from land;
+and the oldest seaman with whom I have conversed on the subject, never saw
+one of them rest. Humboldt says, that in the Northern Deserta, the
+petrels hide in rabbit burrows.
+
+A few days' sail brought us into the "Gulf stream," the influence of which
+is felt as high as the 43° north latitude. We saw a considerable quantity
+of _fucus natans_, or gulf weed, but it generally was so far from the
+vessel, that I could not contrive to procure a sprig. Mr. Luccock, in his
+Notes on Brazil, says, that "if a nodule of this weed, taken fresh from
+the water at night, is hung up in a small cabin, it emits phosphorescent
+light enough to render objects visible." He describes the leaves of this
+plant as springing from the joints of the branches, oblong, indented at
+the edges, about an inch and a half long, and a quarter of an inch broad.
+Humboldt's description is somewhat different: he calls it the "vine-leaved
+fucus;" says, "the leaves are circular, of a _tender_ green, and indented
+at the edges, stem brown, and three inches long."--What I saw of this
+weed rather agrees with that described by Humboldt--the leaves were
+shaped like the vine leaf, and of a rusty-green colour. That portion of
+the Atlantic between the 22d and 34th parallels of latitude, and 26th and
+58th meridians of longitude, is generally covered with fuci, and is termed
+by the Portuguese, _mar do sargasso_, or grassy sea. It was supposed by
+many, from the large quantities of this weed seen in the Gulf stream, that
+it grew on the Florida rocks, and by the influence and extension of the
+current, was detached and carried into this part of the Atlantic. However,
+this position is not tenable, as a single branch of fucus has never been
+found on the Florida reef. Humboldt, and other scientific men, are of
+opinion that this weed vegetates at the bottom of the ocean--that being
+detached from its root, it rises to the surface; and that such portion of
+it as is found in the stream, is drawn thither by the sweeping of the
+current along the edge of the weedy sea. Moreover, the fuci that are
+found in the northern extremity of the Florida stream are generally
+decayed, while those which are seen in the southern extremity appear quite
+fresh--this difference would not exist if they emanated from the Gulf.
+
+We stood to the north of the Azores, with rather unfavourable winds, and
+at length came between the coast of Africa and Cape St. Vincent. Here we
+had a dead calm for four entire days. The sky was perfectly cloudless, and
+the surface of the ocean was like oil. Not being able to do better, we got
+out the boat and went turtle fishing, or rather catching, in company with
+a very fine shark, which thought proper to attend us during our excursion.
+In such weather the turtles come to the surface of the water to sleep and
+enjoy the solar heat, and if you can approach without waking them, they
+fall an easy prey, being rendered incapable of resistance by their shelly
+armour. We took six. Attached to the breast of one was a remora, or
+"sucking fish." The length of this animal is from six to eight
+inches--colour blackish--body, scaleless and oily--head rather flat, on
+the back of which is the sucker, which consists of a narrow oval-shaped
+margin with several transverse projections, and ten curved rays extending
+towards the centre, but not meeting. The Indians of Jamaica and Cuba
+employed this fish as falconers do hawks. In calm weather, they carried
+out those which they had kept and fed for the purpose, in their canoes,
+and when they had got to a sufficient distance, attached the remora to the
+head of the canoe by a strong line of considerable length. When the remora
+perceives a fish, which he can do at a considerable distance, he darts
+away with astonishing rapidity, and fastens upon it. The Indian lets go
+the line, to which a buoy is attached to mark the course the remora has
+taken, and follows in his canoe until he thinks the game is exhausted; he
+then draws it gradually in, the remora still adhering to his prey. Oviedo
+says, "I have known a turtle caught by this method, of a bulk and weight
+which no single man could support."
+
+For four days we were anxiously watching for some indications of a breeze,
+but were so frequently deceived with "cat's paws," and the occasional
+slight flickering of the dog vane, that we sank into listless resignation.
+At length our canvass filled, and we soon came within sight of the Straits
+of Gibraltar. On our left was the coast of Spain, with its vineyards and
+white villages; and on our right lay the sterile hills of Barbary.
+Opposite Cape Trafalgar is Cape Spartel, a bold promontory, on the west
+side of which is a range of basaltic pillars. The entrance to the
+Mediterranean by the Straits, when the wind is unfavourable, is extremely
+difficult; but to pass out is almost impossible, the current continually
+setting in through the centre of the passage. Hence, onwards, the sail was
+extremely pleasant, being within sight of the Spanish coast, and the
+Islands of Yvica, Majorca, and Minorca, successively, until we reached
+the Gulf of Lyons. When the northerly wind blows, which, in Provence, is
+termed the _mistral_, the waves roll against the coast of Provence, and
+the recoil produces that ugly chopping sea for which this gulf is
+renowned. In the Mediterranean, even in the calmest weather, a light
+pleasant breeze springs up after sunset; this and the cloudless sky, and
+unobscured brilliancy of the stars, are attractions sufficient to allure
+the most somnolent and unromantic mortal to remain on deck.
+
+The molusca, or oceanic insect, which emits a phosphorescent light,
+appeared here in vast quantities, which induced me to try experiments. I
+took a piece of black crape, and having folded it several times, poured
+some sea water taken fresh in a bucket, upon it: the water in the bucket,
+when agitated by the hand, gave out sparkling light. When the crape was
+thoroughly saturated with water, I took it to a dark part of the cabin,
+when it seemed to be studded with small sparkling stars; but more of the
+animals I could not then discern. Next day I put some water in a glass
+tumbler, and having exposed it to a strong solar light, with the help of a
+magnifying glass was enabled distinctly to discern the moluscae. When
+magnified, they appeared about the size of a pin's head, of a yellowish
+brown colour, rather oval-shaped, and having tentaculae. The medusa is a
+genus of molusca; and I think M. le Seur told me he reckons forty-three or
+forty-four species of that genus.
+
+We crossed the Gulf of Lyons, and came within the road of Marseilles,
+where we were taken charge of by a pilot. When we reached the mouth of the
+basin, a boat came alongside of us, and a man handed up a piece of wood,
+and said, "Mettez sur cela le nom du capitaine et du batiment;"--we were
+to perform quarantine. Whoever has performed quarantine can commiserate
+our condition. No one can quit the quarantine ground, or rather the space
+in the harbour alloted to vessels performing quarantine. If it be
+necessary to send any papers from the ship on shore, they are taken with a
+forceps and plunged into vinegar. If the sails of any other vessel touch
+those of one in quarantine, she too must undergo several days' probation.
+Our time was five days; but as we had clean bills of health, and had lost
+none of our crew on the passage, we were allowed to count the day of our
+entering and the day of our going out of quarantine. The usual ceremonies
+being performed, I again stepped on European ground, and felt myself at
+home.
+
+FOOTNOTES:
+
+[24] The "Education ticket," that of the "workies," carried every thing
+before it in New York and the adjoining states, at the election of
+members of congress, &c.
+
+
+
+
+APPENDIX.
+
+
+
+NEW CENSUS OF THE UNITED STATES.
+
+An abstract of a "careful revision of the enumeration of the United States
+for the years 1790, 1800, 1810, 1820, and 1830," compiled at the
+Department of State, agreeably to law; and an ABSTRACT from the Aggregate
+Returns of the several Marshals of the United States of the "Fifth
+Census."
+
+STATES.             1790.     1800.     1810.     1820.      1830.
+Maine              96,540   151,719   228,705   298,335    399,463
+New Hampshire     141,899   183,762   214,360   244,161    269,533
+Massachusetts     378,717   423,243   472,040   523,287    610,014
+Rhode Island       69,110    69,122    77,031    83,059     97,210
+Connecticut       258,141   231,002   262,042   275,202    297,011
+Vermont            85,416   154,465   217,713   233,764    280,679
+New York          340,120   586,756   959,049 1,372,812  1,913,508
+New Jersey        184,139   211,949   245,555   277,575    320,778
+Pennsylvania      434,373   602,365   810,091 1,049,458  1,347,672
+Delaware           59,096    64,273    72,674    72,749     76,739
+Maryland          319,728   341,548   380,546   407,350    446,913
+D. Columbia           --     14,093    24,023    33,039     39,588
+Virginia          748,308   880,200   974,622 1,065,379  1,211,266
+N. Carolina       393,751   478,103   555,500   638,829    738,470
+S. Carolina       249,073   345,591   415,115   502,741    581,458
+Georgia            82,548   162,101   252,433   340,987    516,504
+Kentucky           73,077   220,955   406,511   564,317    688,844
+Tennessee          35,791   105,602   231,727   422,813    684,822
+Ohio                  --     45,365   230,760   581,434    937,679
+Indiana               --      4,875    24,520   147,178    341,582
+Mississippi           --      8,850    40,352    75,448    136,806
+Illinois              --        --     12,233    55,211    157,575
+Louisiana             --        --     76,556   153,407    215,791
+Missouri              --        --     20,845    66,586    140,084
+Alabama               --        --        --    127,902    309,206
+Michigan              --        --      4,762     8,896     31,123
+Arkansas              --        --        --     14,273     30,383
+Florida               --        --        --        --      34,725
+                3,929,827 5,305,925 7,289,314 9,638,131 12,856,437
+
+
+INCREASE FROM 1820 TO 1830.
+
+
+                   Per Cent.                       Per Cent.
+Maine                 33,398         S. Carolina      15,657
+N. Hampshire          10,391         Georgia          51,472
+Massachusetts         16,575         Kentucky         22,066
+Rhode Island          17,157         Tennessee        62,044
+Connecticut            8,151         Ohio             61,998
+Vermont               19,005         Indiana         132,087
+New York              39,386         Mississippi      81,032
+New Jersey            15,564         Illinois        185,406
+Pennsylvania          25,416         Louisiana        40,665
+Delaware               5,487         Missouri        110,380
+Maryland               9,712         Alabama         141,574
+D. Columbia           20,639         Michigan        250,001
+Virginia              13,069         Arkansas        113,273
+N. Carolina           15,592         Florida              --
+          Average                       32,392
+
+
+
+
+EXTRACTS
+
+FROM
+
+"THE CHEROKEE PHOENIX,"
+
+OF JULY 31, 1830.
+
+_The following is part of a Letter written by a Creek Chief, from the
+Arkansas territory._
+
+"The son of General M'Intosh, (an Indian chief), with the M'Intosh party,
+held a treaty with the government, and were induced, by promises, to
+remove to Arkansas. They were promised 'a home for ever,' if they would
+select one, and that bounds should be marked off to them. This has not
+been done. They were assured that they should draw a proportionate part of
+the annuity due to the Creek nation every year. They have planted corn
+three seasons--yet they have never drawn one cent of any annuity due to
+them! Why is this? They were promised blankets, guns, ammunition, traps,
+kettles, and a _wheelwright_. They have drawn some few of each class of
+articles, and only a few--they have no wheelwright. They were poor;--but
+above this, they were promised pay for the improvements abandoned by them
+in the old nation. This they have not received. They were further assured
+that they should receive, upon their arrival on Arkansas, _thirty dollars_
+per head for each emigrant. This they have not received. But the acting
+sub-agent, in the spring 1829, finding their wants very pressing (indeed
+many of them were in a famishing condition), gave to each one his due
+bill, in the name of the agent, for the amount of bounty due them, and
+took their receipts for the amount, as vouchers for the agent, to settle
+his account by with the government. The consequence was, that the Indians,
+not regarding paper as of any real value, would go to the traders, and
+sell the due bills at what they could get for them. And the traders having
+no confidence in the promises of the government through its agents, united
+with the hazard of delay at all events, would not give the real value of
+the amount promised by the due bills. If the Indians attempted to trade
+them to the whites for cattle, or any thing which they stood in need of,
+the consequence was, that they were compelled to make a discount upon
+them. Not finding them worth as many dollars as they purported to be for,
+they were willing to let them go upon any terms, rather than keep them in
+their possession. The due bills amounted, in all, to about _twenty-one
+thousand dollars_, which due bills are now in the hands of the original
+holders, or the purchasers, but not lifted by the agent according to his
+promise. (Is not the government bound by the acts of its agent or
+attorney?). It is but fair to estimate the loss of the Indians at one
+third of the sum above stated, and this loss owing entirely to the
+government, by its agent's withholding the fulfilment of its contract with
+the M'Intosh party.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+"Mr. Joseph Brearly was left here by his father, the agent, in charge of
+his affairs, and being apprised of a party of _emigrants_ about to arrive,
+was making preparations to obtain the provisions necessary to subsist them
+for one year; and for that purpose had advertised to supply six thousand
+bushels of corn. The day came for closing the contract, when Colonel
+Arbuckle, commanding Cantonment Gibson, handed in a bid, in the name of
+the Creek nation, to furnish the amount of corn required at _one dollar
+and twelve cents_ per bushel; the next lowest bid to his was _one dollar
+and fifty cents_; so that Colonel Arbuckle saved the government 2,280
+dollars.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+"Mr. Blake, the sub-agent sent by Colonel Crowell, had superseded Mr.
+Brearly, and was engaged in giving his receipts for the corn delivered
+under the contract. A speculation was presented; and as the poor Indians
+were to be the victims of rapacity, why, it was all very well. The
+aforesaid Major Love, to secure the speculation, repaired to St. Louis,
+with _letters of credit_ from Mr. Blake, the sub-agent of Colonel Crowell,
+and purchased several thousand dollars' worth of merchandize, and so soon
+as he could reach the Creek agency, commenced purchasing the corn receipts
+issued by the sub-agent. It is reasonable to suppose that the goods were
+sold, on an average, at two hundred per centum above cost and carriage;
+and by this means the Indians would get about one third of the value of
+their corn at the contract price!--they offered to let the receipts go at
+twenty-five per cent. discount, if they could only obtain cash for them.
+
+"The United States owe the Creeks money--they have paid them none in three
+years--the money has been appropriated by congress. It is withheld by the
+agents. The Indians are destitute of almost every comfort for the want of
+what is due to them. If it is longer withheld from them, it can only be
+so, upon the grounds that the poor Indian, who is unable to compel the
+United States to a compliance with solemn treaties, must linger out a
+miserable degraded existence, while those who have power to extend to him
+the measure of justice, will be left in the _full_ possession of _all_ the
+_complacency_ arising from the solemn _assurance_, that they are either
+the _stupid_ or _guilty_ authors of his degradation and misery.
+
+"TAH-LOHN-TUS-KY.
+
+"P.S. The Creeks have sent frequent memorials, praying relief from the War
+Department; also a delegation, but can obtain no relief!!"
+
+
+
+
+_Extract from a Communication made by a Cherokee Chief._
+
+
+"A company of whites was in this neighbourhood, with forged notes and
+false accounts to a very considerable amount upon the Indians, and
+forcibly drove off the property of several families. This, Sir, is the
+cause of our misery, poverty, and degradation, for which we have been so
+much reproached. This is what makes us _poor devils_. If we fail to make
+good crops, some of the white neighbours must starve, for many of them are
+dependent upon us for support, either by fair or foul means. Some of the
+poor creatures are now travelling among us, almost starved, begging for
+something to eat--they are actually worse than Indians. If they can't get
+by begging, they steal. To make us clear of these evils, and make us happy
+for ever, the unabating avarice of some of the Georgians, by their
+repeated acts of cruelty, point us to homes in the west--but as long as we
+have a pony or a hog to spare them, we will never go, and not then. This
+land is heaven's gift to us--it is the birthright of our fathers: as long
+as these mountains lift their lofty summits to heaven, and these beautiful
+rivers roll their tides to the mighty ocean, so long we will remain. May
+heaven pity and save our distressed country!
+
+"VALLEY TOWNS."
+
+
+The following Extracts may serve to show the state of the country to which
+the Indians are compelled to emigrate:
+
+[FROM THE KENTUCKY INTELLIGENCER.]
+
+_Extract of a Letter, dated Prairie du Chien._
+
+"January 15, 1830.
+
+"There is a prospect, I think, that the Indian department in this part of
+the country will soon require efficient officers. There is little doubt
+that there will be a general and sanguinary war among the Indians in the
+spring. The outrages of the Sauks and Foxes, can be endured no longer.
+Within a short time, they have cut off the head of a young Munomonee
+Indian, at the mouth of Winconscin river--killed a Winnebago woman and
+boy, of the family of Dekaree, and a Sioux called Dixon. The whole Sioux
+nation have made arrangements for a general and simultaneous attack on the
+Foxes; the Winnebagoes, and probably the Munomonees will join them."
+
+
+"Little Rock, Ark. Ter. Feb. 5.
+
+"_Murderous Battle._--A gentleman who arrived here yesterday, direct from
+the Western Creek agency, informs us that a war party of Osages returned
+just before he left the agency, from a successful expedition against the
+Pawnee Indians. He was informed by one of the chiefs, that the party
+seized a Pawnee village, high up on the Arkansas, and had surrounded it
+before the inmates were apprised of their approach. At first the Pawnees
+showed a disposition to resist; but finding themselves greatly outnumbered
+by their assailants, soon sallied forth from their village, and took
+refuge on the margin of a lake, where they again made a stand. Here they
+were again hemmed in by the Osages, who throwing away their guns, fell
+upon them with their knives and tomahawks, and did not cease the work of
+butchery as long as any remained to resist them. Not one escaped. All were
+slain, save a few who were taken prisoners, and who are perhaps destined
+to suffer a more cruel death than those who were butchered on the spot.
+Our informant did not learn what number of Pawnees were killed, but
+understood that the Osages brought in sixty or seventy scalps, besides
+several prisoners.
+
+"We also learn, that the Osages are so much elated with this victory, that
+another war party were preparing to go on an expedition against some
+Choctaws who reside on Red river, with whom they have been at variance for
+some time past."
+
+
+_Extract of a Letter from an Officer of the Army, dated Prairie du Chien._
+
+[FROM THE NEW YORK COM. ADVERTIZER.]
+
+"May 6, 1830.
+
+"_Indian Hostilities._--When coming down the Mississippi, on the raft of
+timber, a war party of Sioux came to me and landed on the raft, but did
+not offer any violence. They were seventy strong, and well armed; and when
+they arrived at the Prairie, they were joined by thirty Menominees, and
+then proceeded down the river in pursuit of the Sauks and Foxes, who lay
+below. This morning they all returned, and reported that they had killed
+ten of the Foxes and two squaws. I saw all the scalps and other trophies
+which they had taken; such as canoes, tomahawks, knives, guns, war clubs,
+spears, &c. A paddle was raised by them in the air, on which was strung
+the head of a squaw and the scalps. They killed the head chief of the Fox
+nation, and took from them all the treaties which the nation had made
+since 1815. I saw them, and read such as I wished. One Sioux killed, and
+three wounded, was all the loss of the northern party. The Winnebagoes
+have joined with the Sioux and Menominees, and the Potawatomies have
+joined with the Sauks and Foxes. We shall have a great battle in a day or
+two."
+
+
+
+***END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK A RAMBLE OF SIX THOUSAND MILES
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+<meta http-equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html; charset=iso-8859-1">
+<title>The Project Gutenberg eBook of A Ramble of Six Thousand Miles through the United States of America, by S. A. Ferrall</title>
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+<body>
+<h1>The Project Gutenberg eBook, A Ramble of Six Thousand Miles through the
+United States of America, by S. A. Ferrall</h1>
+<pre class="gut">
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at <a href = "https://www.gutenberg.org">www.gutenberg.org</a></pre>
+<p>Title: A Ramble of Six Thousand Miles through the United States of America</p>
+<p>Author: S. A. Ferrall</p>
+<p>Release Date: March 26, 2004  [eBook #11725]</p>
+<p>Language: English</p>
+<p>Character set encoding: iso-8859-1</p>
+<p>***START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK A RAMBLE OF SIX THOUSAND MILES THROUGH THE UNITED STATES OF AMERICA***</p>
+<br>
+<br>
+<center><b>E-text prepared by Project Gutenberg Distributed Proofreaders</b></center>
+<br>
+<br>
+<hr class="full" noshade>
+<br>
+<br>
+<a name="Page_-11"></a><a name="Page_-12"></a>
+<br>
+
+<p><a name="Page_-10"></a>
+<a name="image-1"><!-- Image 1 --></a>
+<center>
+<img src="001.jpg" height="1419" width="600"
+alt=" <i>Fac-simile of the first two Paragraphs of the Leading
+Article in the &quot;CHEROKEE PHOENIX&quot; of July 31, 1830</i>">
+</center>
+<h5><i>Fac-simile of the first two Paragraphs of the Leading
+Article in the &quot;CHEROKEE PHOENIX&quot; of July 31, 1830</i></h5>
+
+<br>
+<hr style="width: 65%;">
+<br>
+
+<h1><a name="Page_-9"></a>A RAMBLE OF SIX THOUSAND MILES THROUGH THE UNITED STATES OF AMERICA.</h1>
+
+<h2>BY S. A. FERRALL, ESQ.</h2>
+
+<a name="image-2"><!-- Image 2 --></a>
+<center>
+<img src="002.jpg" height="195" width="200"
+alt="Title Page Illustration">
+</center>
+
+<h3>LONDON</h3>
+
+<h4>1832</h4>
+<a name="Page_-8"></a>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;">
+<a name="PREFACE"></a><h2><a name="Page_-7"></a>PREFACE.</h2>
+
+<p>The few sketches contained in this small volume were not originally
+intended for publication&mdash;they were written solely for the amusement of my
+immediate acquaintances, and were forwarded to Europe in the shape of
+letters. Subsequent considerations have induced me to publish them; and if
+they be found to contain remarks on some subjects, which other travellers
+in America have passed over unnoticed, the end that I have in view will be
+fully answered.</p><a name="Page_-6"></a>
+
+<p>Although I remained in the seaboard cities sufficiently long to have
+collected much information; yet knowing that the statistics of those
+places had been so often and so ably set before the public, I felt no
+inclination to trouble my friends with their repetition.</p>
+
+<p>In Europe, the name of America is so associated with the idea of
+emigration, that to announce an intention of crossing the Atlantic, rouses
+the interfering propensity of friends and acquaintances, and produces such
+a torrent of queries and remonstrances, as will require a considerable
+share of moral courage to listen to and resist. All are on the tiptoe of
+expectation, to hear what the inducements can possibly be for travelling
+in America. America!! every one exclaims&mdash;what can you possibly see there?
+A country like America&mdash;little <a name="Page_-5"></a>better than a mere forest&mdash;the inhabitants
+notoriously far behind Europeans in refinement&mdash;filled with wild Indians,
+rattle-snakes, bears, and backwoodsmen; ferocious hogs and ugly negros;
+and every other species of noxious and terrific animal!</p>
+
+<p>Without, however, any definite scientific object, or indeed any motive
+much more important than a love of novelty, I determined on visiting
+America; within whose wide extent all the elements of society, civilized
+and uncivilized, were to be found&mdash;where the great city could be traced to
+the infant town&mdash;where villages dwindle into scattered farms&mdash;and these to
+the log-house of the solitary backwoodsman, and the temporary wig-wam of
+the wandering Pawnee.</p>
+
+<p>I have refrained nearly altogether from touching on the domestic habits
+<a name="Page_-4"></a>and manners of the Americans, because they have been treated of by
+Captain Hall and others; and as the Americans always allowed me to act as
+I thought proper, and even to laugh at such of their habits as I thought
+singular, I am by no means inclined to take exception to them.</p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;">
+<a name="CONTENTS"></a><h2><a name="Page_-3"></a>CONTENTS</h2>
+
+<h4>
+<!-- Autogenerated TOC. Modify or delete as required. -->
+<a href="#PREFACE"><b>PREFACE</b></a><br>
+<a href="#CHAPTER_I"><b>CHAPTER I</b></a><br>
+Sail for New York in an American vessel&mdash;the crew&mdash;ostentation of the
+Captain&mdash;a heavy gale&mdash;soundings&mdash;icebergs&mdash;bay of New York&mdash;Negros and
+Negresses&mdash;White Ladies&mdash;climate&mdash;fires&mdash;vagrant pigs&mdash;Frances
+Wright&mdash;Match between an Indian canoe and a skiff
+<br>
+<a href="#CHAPTER_II"><b>CHAPTER II</b></a><br>
+Depart for Albany&mdash;the Hudson&mdash;Albany&mdash;Cohoe's Falls&mdash;Rome&mdash;the Little
+Falls&mdash;forest of charred trees&mdash;&quot;stilly night&quot; in a swamp&mdash;fire
+fly&mdash;Rochester&mdash;Falls of Gennessee&mdash;Sam. Patch&mdash;an eccentric
+character&mdash;Falls of Niagara&mdash;the Tuscarora Indians&mdash;Buffalo&mdash;Lake
+Erie&mdash;the Iroquois&mdash;the Wyandots&mdash;death of Seneca John, and its
+consequences&mdash;ague fever&mdash;Wyandot prairie&mdash;the Delawares' mode of dealing
+with the Indians&mdash;the transporting of Negros to Canada
+<br>
+<a href="#CHAPTER_III"><b>CHAPTER III</b></a><br><a name="Page_-2"></a>
+Arrive at Marion&mdash;divorces&mdash;woodlands&mdash;Columbus&mdash;land offices&mdash;population,
+&amp;c. Shaking Quakers&mdash;kidnapping free Negros&mdash;Cincinnati&mdash;the farmers of
+Ohio&mdash;a corn-husking frolic&mdash;qualifications necessary to Senators,
+Legislators, and Electors&mdash;a camp-meeting&mdash;militia officers'
+muster&mdash;Presbyterian parsons&mdash;price of land, cattle, &amp;c.&mdash;fever and ague
+<br>
+<a href="#CHAPTER_IV"><b>CHAPTER IV</b></a><br>
+Set out for New Harmony&mdash;the roads&mdash;a backwoodsman&mdash;the
+journey&mdash;peaches&mdash;casualties&mdash;travelling&mdash;New Harmony&mdash;M. Le
+Seur&mdash;barter&mdash;excursion down the Wabash&mdash;the co-operative
+community&mdash;Robert Owen
+<br>
+<a href="#CHAPTER_V"><b>CHAPTER V</b></a><br>
+Depart for St. Louis&mdash;Albion&mdash;the late Messrs. Birkbeck and
+Flowers&mdash;Hardgrove's prairie&mdash;the roads&mdash;the Grand prairie&mdash;prairie
+wolf&mdash;mode of training dogs&mdash;Elliott's inn&mdash;inhabitants of
+Illinois&mdash;ablutions&mdash;coal&mdash;soil and produce&mdash;the American Bottom&mdash;St
+Louis&mdash;monopolies&mdash;Fur companies&mdash;incivility of a certain Major&mdash;trapping
+expedition&mdash;trade <a name="Page_-1"></a>with Santa F&eacute;&mdash;lead mines&mdash;Carondalot&mdash;Jefferson
+barracks&mdash;discipline&mdash;visit to a slave-holder&mdash;the Ioway hostages&mdash;Indian
+investigation&mdash;character of the Indians.
+<br>
+<a href="#CHAPTER_VI"><b>CHAPTER VI</b></a><br>
+Leave St. Louis&mdash;Indian mounds&mdash;remains of ancient fortifications&mdash;burial
+caverns&mdash;mummies&mdash;Flint's description of a mummy&mdash;the languages of
+America&mdash;town making&mdash;the Indian summer&mdash;population, &amp;c. of Illinois&mdash;the
+prairie hen&mdash;the Turkey buzzard&mdash;settlers&mdash;forest in autumn&mdash;a gouging
+scrape&mdash;the country&mdash;extent and population of Indiana&mdash;hogs&mdash;a settler in
+bottom land&mdash;the sugar maple&mdash;roads&mdash;a baptism
+<br>
+<a href="#CHAPTER_VII"><b>CHAPTER VII</b></a><br>
+Set out for New Orleans&mdash;Louisville&mdash;Mississippi steam-boats&mdash;the
+Ohio&mdash;the Mississippi&mdash;sugar plantations&mdash;the valley of the
+Mississippi&mdash;New Orleans&mdash;Quadroons&mdash;slavery&mdash;a Methodist slavite&mdash;runaway
+Negros&mdash;incendiary fires at Orleans&mdash;liberty of the press&mdash;laws passed by
+the legislature of Louisiana&mdash;Miss Wright&mdash;public schools&mdash;yellow
+fever&mdash;the Texas
+<br>
+<a href="#CHAPTER_VIII"><b>CHAPTER VIII</b></a><br><a name="Page_0"></a>
+Depart for Louisville&mdash;tellandsea, or Spanish moss&mdash;Natchez&mdash;the yellow
+fever&mdash;cotton plantations&mdash;Mississippi wood-cutters&mdash;freshets&mdash;planters,
+sawyers, and snags&mdash;steam-boat blown up&mdash;the Chickesaws&mdash;hunting in
+Tennessee&mdash;electioneering&mdash;vote by ballot&mdash;trade on the Ohio and
+Mississippi rivers&mdash;the People&mdash;the President's veto&mdash;finances&mdash;government
+banks&mdash;Kentucky&mdash;the Kentuckians&mdash;court-houses&mdash;an election&mdash;universal
+suffrage&mdash;an Albino&mdash;Diluvian reliqua
+<br>
+<a href="#CHAPTER_IX"><b>CHAPTER IX</b></a><br>
+The political condition of the Indians&mdash;Missionaries&mdash;the letter of
+Red-jacket&mdash;the speech of the wandering Pawnee chief
+<br>
+<a href="#CHAPTER_X"><b>CHAPTER X</b></a><br>
+Kenhawa salt-works&mdash;coal&mdash;a
+Radical&mdash;rattle-snakes&mdash;Baltimore&mdash;Philadelphia&mdash;taxation&mdash;shipping
+<br>
+<a href="#CHAPTER_XI"><b>CHAPTER XI</b></a><br>
+&quot;The Workies&quot;&mdash;Miss Wright&mdash;the opening of the West India ports to
+American vessels&mdash;voyage homeward&mdash;the stormy petrel&mdash;Gulf weed&mdash;the
+remora&mdash;the molusca&mdash;quarantine
+<br>
+<a href="#APPENDIX"><b>APPENDIX</b></a><br>
+<a href="#EXTRACTS"><b>EXTRACTS</b></a><br>
+</h4>
+<!-- End Autogenerated TOC. -->
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;">
+<a name="CHAPTER_I"></a><h2><a name="Page_1"></a>CHAPTER I</h2>
+<br>
+
+<p>Following the plan I had laid down for myself, I sought and found a goodly
+Yankee merchantman, bound for and belonging to the city of New York. Our
+vessel was manned with a real <i>American</i> crew, that is, a crew, of which
+scarcely two men are of the same nation&mdash;which conveys a tolerably correct
+notion of the population of the United States. The crew consisted of one
+Russian, one German, one Italian, one Scotchman, one Newfoundlander, one
+Irishman, two Englishmen, two New Englanders, and two Negros&mdash;the cook and
+steward. The seamen of America are better paid, and better <a name="Page_2"></a>protected,
+than those of any other nation; but work harder, and must understand their
+duty well. Indeed if we had not had a good crew, our ship, being old,
+might have suffered severely.</p>
+
+<p>In selecting this ship, in addition to accommodations, I only took into
+account her build; and so far was not disappointed, for when she <i>could</i>
+carry sail, she scudded along in gallant style; but with ships as with
+horses, the more they <i>have done</i>, the less they have <i>to do</i>.</p>
+
+<p>I had a strong impression on my mind that a person travelling in America
+as a professed tourist, would be unable to form a correct estimate of the
+real character and condition of the people; for, from their great
+nationality, they would be likely to show him the best side of every
+thing. Of this kind of ostentation I very soon had a slight proof. Our
+ship left port in gallant trim, but had no sooner gained the open sea,
+than all hands were employed in stowing away the finery, <a name="Page_3"></a>and covering the
+rigging with mats&mdash;even the very cabin doors were taken off the hinges,
+and brass knobs and other ornaments which appeared to have been fixtures,
+were unshipped and deposited below, where they remained until our approach
+to New York, when the finery was again displayed, and all was placed once
+more <i>in statu quo</i>.</p>
+
+<p>For the first twelve days we had rather pleasant weather, and nothing
+remarkable occurred, unless a swallow coming on board completely exhausted
+with flying, fatigue made it so tame that it suffered itself to be
+caressed; it however popped into the coop, and the ducks literally gobbled
+it up alive. The ducks were, same day, suffered to roam about the decks,
+and the pigs fell foul of one of them, and eat the breast off it. Passing
+the cabouse, I heard the negro steward soliloquising, and on looking in,
+perceived him cutting a hen's throat with the most heartfelt satisfaction,
+as he grinned and exclaimed, by way of answer to its screams, &quot;Poor
+<a name="Page_4"></a>feller! I guess I wouldn't hurt you for de world;&quot; I could not help
+thinking with Leibnitz, that most sapient of philosophers, that this is
+the best of all possible worlds.</p>
+
+<p>On the thirteenth day we encountered a heavy gale, which continued to
+increase for four successive days. During this period we were unable to
+carry more canvass than was barely necessary to render the vessel
+manageable. A heavy gale, for the first time, is rather interesting than
+otherwise: the novelty of the sea's appearance&mdash;the anxiety of the crew
+and officers&mdash;the promptitude with which commands are given and
+executed&mdash;and the excitement produced by the other incidental occurrences,
+tend to make even a storm, when encountered in open sea, by no means
+destitute of pleasing interest. During this gale, the sailors appeared to
+be more than ordinarily anxious only upon one occasion, and then only for
+a minute&mdash;the circumstance was not calculated to create alarm in the mind
+of a person <a name="Page_5"></a>totally ignorant of nautical affairs, but being somewhat of a
+sailor, I understood the danger tolerably well. The helm was struck by a
+sea, and strained at the bolts; from the concussion occasioned by the
+blow, it was apprehended for a moment that it had been carried away.
+Without a helm, in such weather, much was to be feared; for her timbers
+being old, she could hardly meet the shock of an ocean wave upon her
+broadside without suffering serious injury. The helmsman was knocked
+down&mdash;the captain and mate jumped aft, to ascertain the extent of the
+damage; while the sailors scowled along the deck, as they laid their
+shoulders to the weather side of the ship&mdash;all was anxiety for the
+instant. At length the mate cried, &quot;helm all right,&quot; and the crew pulled
+away as usual. At the close of the fourth day the storm subsided, and we
+approached the banks of Newfoundland.</p>
+
+<p>It is generally supposed that the colour of the sea is a sure indication
+of the pre<a name="Page_6"></a>sence or absence of soundings; that is, that there are
+soundings where the water is green, and that there are none where the
+water is blue. The former is, I believe, true in every instance; but the
+latter is certainly not so, as the first soundings we got here, were in
+water as blue as indigo, depth fifty odd fathoms.</p>
+
+<p>We were thirty days crossing these tiresome banks; during which time we
+were befogged, and becalmed, and annoyed with all sorts of disagreeable
+weather. The fogs or mists were frequently so dense, that it was
+impossible to see more than thirty yards from the vessel. This course is
+not that usually taken by ships bound for the United States, as they
+generally cross the Atlantic at much lower latitudes, but our captain
+&quot;calculated&quot; on escaping calms, and avoiding the influence of the Gulf
+stream, and thus making a quicker passage; he was, however, mistaken, as a
+packet ship that left Liverpool four days after, arrived at New York
+sixteen days before us.</p><a name="Page_7"></a>
+
+<p>We found the thermometer of incalculable service, both for ascertaining
+when we got into the stream, and for disclosing our dangerous proximity to
+icebergs. That we had approached near icebergs we discovered one evening
+to be the case by the mercury falling, suddenly, below 40&deg;, in foggy
+weather. We notwithstanding held on our course, and fortunately escaped
+accident. Many vessels which depart from port with gallant crews, and are
+never heard of more, are lost, I am convinced, by fatal collision with
+these floating islands. From the beginning of spring to the latter end of
+summer, masses of brash ice are occasionally encountered in these
+latitudes.</p>
+
+<p>Towards the evening of the fiftieth day we entered the bay of New York:
+the bay is really beautiful, and at this season (summer) perhaps appeared
+to the greatest advantage. The numerous islands with which it is
+interspersed, were covered to the water's edge with foliage and verdure,
+and here and <a name="Page_8"></a>there studded with handsome villas. The city appeared to be
+literally surrounded by a thick grove of masts, from which floated the
+flags of many nations&mdash;the scene, thus gradually unfolding itself to the
+eyes of one who had been for so long a time immured within a vessel, was
+really fascinating.</p>
+
+<p>While at New York, I staid at the &quot;Pearl-street Boarding-house,&quot; and
+experienced from Messrs. Haskell and Perry, the proprietors, the most
+polite attention. Most Europeans are astonished at the rapidity with which
+the Americans despatch their meals; but I, having admitted the
+proposition, that there was &quot;nothing new under the sun,&quot; had long
+previously ceased to be <i>astonished</i> at any thing. On the first day of my
+dining at the table d'h&ocirc;te, one of those gentlemen told me, when we sat
+down to dinner, that most of the persons at table were men of business,
+who were in the habit of eating much quicker than he knew I was accustomed
+to, and requested that that might not <a name="Page_9"></a>in the slightest interfere with my
+habits, but that I should entirely suit my own comfort and convenience.
+After that preface, I think I should have been most unreasonable to fall
+into a passion with the New Yorkers, because they <i>bolted</i> instead of
+masticating.</p>
+
+<p>New York is altogether a trading place, and different from any thing of
+the same magnitude in Europe: scarcely a single street is exclusively
+filled with private residences;&mdash;in a mercantile point of view, it is the
+Liverpool of the United States.</p>
+
+<p>The negros and mulattos constitute a considerable portion of the
+population. It is impossible to imagine the extreme ugliness of some of
+the sooty gentry; a decent ourang-outang might, without presumption, vie
+with many of these people, even of the <i>fair sex</i>, and an impartial judge
+should certainly decide that the said ourang-outang was the handsomer
+animal. Many of them are wealthy, and dress remarkably well. The females,
+when their shins and mis<a name="Page_10"></a>shapen feet are concealed by long gowns, appear
+to have good figures. A few days after my arrival, walking down &quot;Broadway&quot;
+(the principal street) I was struck with the figure of a fashionably
+dressed woman, who was sauntering before me. After passing, I turned
+round, when&mdash;O angels and ministers of ugliness!&mdash;I beheld a face, as
+black as soot&mdash;a mouth that reached from ear to ear&mdash;a nose, like nothing
+human&mdash;and lips a full inch in diameter! On the following morning, whilst
+dressing at my bed-room window, I heard a squeaking sort of voice warbling
+forth, &quot;Love was once a little Boy,&quot; and &quot;I'd be a Butterfly.&quot; The strange
+<i>melody</i> and unusual intonations induced me to look out, when, to my
+astonishment, I found that the <i>fair</i> songstress was a most
+hideous-looking negress! Such are the scenes that constantly present
+themselves here, and remind a European that he is in a new region.</p>
+
+<p>The white ladies dress fashionably, gene<a name="Page_11"></a>rally <i>&agrave; la Fran&ccedil;oise</i>; have
+straight figures, and with the help of a little cotton, judiciously
+disposed, and sometimes, the smallest possible portion of rouge, contrive
+to look rather interesting; in general, they are lamentably deficient in
+<i>tournure</i> and <i>en-bon-point</i>. The hands and feet of the greatest belle,
+are <i>pas mignon</i>, and would be termed plebeian by the Anglo-Normans&mdash;the
+aristocracy of England. Yet I have seen many girls extremely handsome
+indeed, having a delicate bloom and fair skin; but this does not endure
+long, as the variable nature of the climate&mdash;the sudden and violent
+transitions of temperature which occur on this continent, destroy, in a
+few years, the complexion of the finest woman. When she arrives at the age
+of thirty, her skin is shrivelled and discoloured; she is thin, and has
+all the indications of premature old age. The women of England retain
+their beauty at least ten years longer than those of America.</p>
+
+<p>The inhabitants of that part of New York <a name="Page_12"></a>nearest the shipping, are
+extremely sallow and unhealthy looking, and many have a most cadaverous
+aspect. Malaria certainly exists here in some degree. A man will tell you
+that the city is perfectly healthy, whilst his own appearance most
+unquestionably indicates disease. I speak now of the quays and adjacent
+streets; and the cause is very apparent. The wharfs are faced with wood,
+and the retiring of the tide exposes a rotten vegetable substance to the
+action of an almost tropical sun, which, added to the filth that is
+invariably found in the neighbourhood of shipping, is quite sufficient to
+produce the degree of unhealthiness that exists. On going up the town, the
+appearance of the inhabitants gradually improves, and approaching the
+suburbs, the difference is striking,&mdash;in this district I have seen persons
+as stout and healthy looking as any in England or Ireland.</p>
+
+<p>On the night of my arrival, a fire broke out, by which several extensive
+warehouses <a name="Page_13"></a>were entirely consumed. There is nothing more remarkable here
+than the frequent occurrence of this calamity, except the excellent
+arrangements that are made for arresting its progress. The engines,
+apparatus, and <i>corps de pompiers</i>, are admirably maintained, and the
+promptitude and regularity with which they arrive at the scene of
+devastation truly astonishing: indeed, were this not the case, the city
+must very soon be destroyed; for notwithstanding all their exertions,
+every conflagration makes it minus several houses, and few nights pass
+without bringing a misfortune of this nature.</p>
+
+<p>There are several theatres, churches, and other public buildings,
+dispersed throughout the city. The City Hall, which stands near the upper
+end of a small enclosure, called the Park, is considered the handsomest
+building in the United States. It was finished in 1812, and cost half a
+million dollars.</p>
+
+<p>The police regulations appear not to be so severe as they ought to be, for
+droves of hogs <a name="Page_14"></a>are permitted to roam about the streets, to the terror of
+fine ladies, and the great annoyance of all pedestrians.</p>
+
+<p>New York was settled by the Dutch in 1615, and called by them New
+Amsterdam. In 1634, it was conquered by the English,&mdash;retaken by the Dutch
+in 1673, and restored in 1674. Its present population is estimated at
+213,000.</p>
+
+<p>Having heard that the celebrated Frances Wright, authoress of &quot;A Few Days
+in Athens,&quot; was publicly preaching and promulgating her doctrines in the
+city, I determined on paying the &quot;Hall of Science&quot; a visit, in which
+establishment she usually lectured. The address she delivered on the
+evening I attended had been previously delivered on the fourth of July, in
+the city of Philadelphia; but, at the request of a numerous party of
+&quot;Epicureans,&quot; she was induced to repeat it. The hall might contain perhaps
+ten or twelve hundred persons, and on this occasion it was filled to
+excess, by a well-dressed audience of both sexes.</p><a name="Page_15"></a>
+
+<p>The person of Frances Wright is tall and commanding&mdash;her features are
+rather masculine, and the melancholy cast which her countenance ordinarily
+assumes gives it rather a harsh appearance&mdash;her dark chestnut hair hangs
+in long graceful curls about her neck; and when delivering her lectures,
+her appearance is romantic and unique.</p>
+
+<p>She is a speaker of great eloquence and ability, both as to the matter of
+her orations, and the manner of their delivery. The first sentence she
+utters rivets your attention; and, almost unconsciously, your sympathies
+are excited, and you are carried onward by the reasonings and the
+eloquence of this disciple of the Gardens. The impression made on the
+audience assembled on that occasion was really wonderful. Once or twice,
+when I could withdraw my attention from the speaker, I regarded the
+countenances of those around me, and certainly never witnessed any thing
+more striking. The high-wrought interest depicted in their faces, added to
+the <a name="Page_16"></a>breathless silence that reigned throughout the building, made the
+spectacle the most imposing I ever beheld. She was the Cum&aelig;an Sibyl
+delivering oracles and labouring under the inspiration of the God of
+Day.&mdash;This address was chiefly of a political character, and she took care
+to flatter the prejudices of the Americans, by occasionally recurring to
+the advantages their country possessed over European states&mdash;namely, the
+absence of country gentlemen, and of a church establishment; for to the
+absence of these the Americans attribute a large portion of the very great
+degree of comfort they enjoy.</p>
+
+<p>Near Hoboken, about three miles up North river, at the opposite side to
+New York, a match took place between a boat rowed by two watermen, and a
+canoe paddled by two Indians. The boat was long and narrow, similar in
+form to those that ply on the Thames. The canoe was of the lightest
+possible construction, being composed of thin hickory ribs covered with
+bark. In calm <a name="Page_17"></a>weather, the Indians propel these vessels through the water
+with astonishing velocity; but when the wind is high, and the water much
+disturbed, their progress is greatly impeded. It so happened on this day
+that the water was rough, and consequently unfavourable to the Aborigines.
+At the appointed signal the competitors started. For a short distance the
+Indians kept up with their rivals, but the long heavy pull of the oar soon
+enabled the boatmen to leave them at a distance. The Indians, true to
+their character, seeing the contest hopeless, after the first turn, no
+longer contended for victory; they paddled deliberately back to the
+starting place, stepped out, and carried their canoe on shore. The
+superiority of the oar over the paddle was in this contest fully
+demonstrated. </p><a name="Page_18"></a>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;">
+<a name="CHAPTER_II"></a><h2><a name="Page_19"></a>CHAPTER II</h2>
+<br>
+
+<p>Having determined on quitting &quot;the London of the States,&quot; as my friends
+the Yankees call New York, I had bag and baggage conveyed on board a
+steamer bound for Albany. The arrangements and accommodations on board
+this boat were superb, and surpassed any thing of the kind I ever met with
+in Europe, on the same scale; and the groups of well-dressed passengers
+fully indicated the general prosperity of the country.</p>
+
+<p>The distance between New York and Albany is about 165 miles. The scenery
+on the Hudson is said to be the most beautiful of any in America, and I
+believe cannot be surpassed in any country. Many of the <a name="Page_20"></a>beauties of rich
+European scenery are to be found along the banks of that noble river. In
+the highlands, about fifty miles from New York, is West Point, on which
+stands a strong fortress, containing an arsenal, a military-school, and a
+garrison. It is romantically situated among lofty crags and mountains,
+which rise above the level of the water from 1100 to 1500 feet. There are
+many handsome country seats and villages between West Point and Hudson,
+where the river is more than a mile wide.</p>
+
+<p>After a passage of about sixteen or seventeen hours, we arrived at Albany.
+The charge for passage, including dinner and tea, was only three dollars;
+and the day following the cost was reduced, through the spirit of
+opposition, to one dollar.</p>
+
+<p>Albany is the legislative capital of New York. It is a handsome city, and
+one of the oldest in the Union. Most of the houses are built of wood,
+which, when tastefully painted (not often the case) have rather a pleasing
+<a name="Page_21"></a>appearance. The situation of this city is advantageous, both from the
+direct communication which it enjoys with the Atlantic, by means of sloops
+and schooners, and the large tract of back country which it commands. A
+trade with Canada is established by means of the Erie and Hudson canal.
+The capitol, and other public buildings, are large and handsome, and being
+constructed of either brick or stone, give the city a respectable
+appearance.</p>
+
+<p>Albany, in 1614, was first settled by the Dutch, and was by them called
+Orange. On its passing into the hands of the English, in 1664, its present
+name was given to it, in honour of the Duke of York. It was chartered in
+1686.</p>
+
+<p>From Albany I proceeded along the canal, by West Troy and Junction, and
+near the latter place we came to Cohoe's Falls, on the Mohawk. The river
+here is about 250 yards wide, which rushing over a jagged and uneven bed
+of rocks, produces a very pic<a name="Page_22"></a>turesque effect. The canal runs nearly
+parallel with this river from Junction to Utica, crossing it twice, at an
+interval of seven miles, over aqueducts nearly fifty rods in length,
+constructed of solid beams of timber. The country is very beautiful, and
+for the most part well cultivated. The soil possesses every variety of
+good and bad. The farms along the canal are valuable, land being generally
+worth from fifty to a hundred dollars per acre.</p>
+
+<p>Above Schenectady, a very ancient town, the bed of the canal gave way,
+which of course obliged us to come to a dead halt. I hired, for myself and
+two others, a family waggon (dignified here with the appellation of
+<i>carriage</i>) to take us beyond the break, in expectation of being able to
+get a boat thence onwards, but unfortunately all the upward-bound boats
+had proceeded. We were, therefore, obliged to wait until next morning. My
+fellow travellers having light luggage, got themselves and it into a hut
+at the other side of the lock; but I, having heavy baggage, <a name="Page_23"></a>which it was
+impossible to carry across, was compelled to remain on the banks, between
+the canal and the Mohawk, all night. On the river there were several
+canoes, with fishermen spearing by torch-light; while on the banks the
+boatmen and boys, Mulattos and whites, were occupied in gambling. They had
+tables, candles, dice, and cards. With these, and with a <i>quantum
+sufficit</i> of spirits, they contrived to while away the time until
+day-break; of course interlarding their conversation with a reasonable
+quantity of oaths and imprecations. The breach being repaired early in the
+morning, the boats came up, and we proceeded to Utica.</p>
+
+<p>Seven miles above Utica is seated Rome, a small and dirty town, bearing no
+possible resemblance to the &quot;Eternal City,&quot; even in its more modern
+condition, as the residence of the &quot;Triple Prince;&quot; but, on the contrary,
+having, if one could judge from the habitations, every appearance of
+squalid poverty. Fifteen miles further on, we passed <a name="Page_24"></a>the Little Falls. It
+was night when we came to them, but it being moonlight, we had an
+opportunity of seeing them to advantage. The crags are here
+stupendous&mdash;irregular and massive piles of rocks, from which spring the
+lofty pine and cedar, are heaped in frightful disorder on each other, and
+give the scene a terrifically grand appearance.</p>
+
+<p>From Rome to Syracuse, a distance of forty-six miles, the canal is cut
+through a swampy forest, a great portion of which is composed of dead
+trees. One of the most dismal scenes imaginable is a forest of charred
+trees, which is occasionally to be met with in this country, especially in
+the route by which I was travelling. It is caused by the woods being
+fired, by accident or otherwise. The aspect of these blasted monuments of
+ruined vegetation is strange and peculiar; and the air of desertion and
+desolation which pervades their neighbourhood, reminds one of the stories
+that are told of the Upas <a name="Page_25"></a>valley of Java, for here too not a bird is to
+be seen. The smell arising from this swamp in the night, was so bad as to
+oblige us to shut all the windows and doors of the boat, which, added to
+the bellowing and croaking of the bull frogs&mdash;the harsh and incessant
+noise of the grasshoppers, and the melancholy cry of the whip-poor-will,
+formed a combination not of the most agreeable nature. Yet, in defiance of
+all this, we were induced occasionally to brave the terrors of the night,
+in order to admire that beautiful insect the fire-fly, or as it is called
+by the natives, &quot;lightning bug.&quot; They emit a greenish phosphorescent
+light, and are seen at this season in every part of the country. The woods
+here were full of them, and seemed literally to be studded with small
+stars, which emitted a bright flickering light.</p>
+
+<p>After you pass Syracuse, the country begins to improve; but still it is
+low and marshy, and for the most part unhealthy, as the appearance of the
+people clearly <a name="Page_26"></a>indicates. In this country, as in every other, the canals
+are generally cut through comparatively low lands, and the low lands here,
+with few exceptions, are all swampy; however, a great deal of the
+unhealthiness which pervades this district, arises from want of attention.
+A large portion of the inhabitants are Low Dutch, who appear never to be
+in their proper element, unless when settled down in the midst of a swamp.
+They allow rotten timber to accumulate, and stagnant pools to remain about
+their houses, and from these there arises an effluvium which is most
+unpleasant in warm weather, which, however, they do not seem to perceive.</p>
+
+<p>We entered Rochester, through an aqueduct thirty rods in length, built of
+stone, across the Genessee river. Rochester is the handsomest town on this
+line. Some of the houses here are tastefully decorated. All the windows
+have Venetian blinds, and generally there are one or two covered balconies
+attached to the front of each house.<a name="Page_27"></a> Before the doors there are small
+<i>parterres</i>, planted with rose-trees, and other fragrant shrubs. About
+half a mile from the town are the Falls of Genessee. The water glides over
+an even bed of limestone rock, ninety-six feet above the level of the
+river below. There is a beautiful regularity in this fall, but its extreme
+uniformity divests it of picturesque effect. Here the celebrated diver,
+Sam. Patch, subsequently met his fate in diving off this precipice. He had
+performed similar feats at the Falls of Niagara, without sustaining any
+injury. He was not killed by the fall; but is supposed to have fainted
+when midway from, his leap, as his arms were observed to relax, and his
+legs to open, before he reached the water.</p>
+
+<p>On my journey I met with an Englishman, a Mr. W&mdash;&mdash;. He dressed <i>&agrave; la Mungo
+Park</i>, wearing a jacket and trowsers of jean, and a straw hat. He was a
+great pedestrian; had travelled through most of the southern States, and
+was now on his tour through this <a name="Page_28"></a>part of the country. He was a gentleman
+about fifty,&mdash;silent and retiring in his habits. Enamoured of the
+orange-trees of Georgia, he intended returning there or to Carolina, and
+ending his days. We agreed to visit the Falls of Niagara together, and
+accordingly quitted the boat at Tonawanta. When we had dined, and had
+deposited our luggage in the safe keeping of the Niagara hotel-keeper, my
+companion shouldered his vigne stick, and to one end of which he appended
+a small bundle, containing a change of linen, &amp;c., and I put on my
+shooting coat of many pockets, and shouldered my gun. Thus equipped, we
+commenced our journey to the Great Falls. The distance from Tonawanta to
+the village of the Falls, now called Manchester, is about eleven miles.
+The way lies through a forest, in which there are but a few scattered
+habitations. A great part of the road runs close to the river Niagara; and
+the occasional glimpses of this broad sheet of water, which are obtained
+<a name="Page_29"></a>through the rich foliage of the forest, added to the refreshing breeze
+that approached us through the openings, rendered our pedestrian excursion
+extremely delightful.</p>
+
+<p>Towards evening we arrived at the village, and proceeded to reconnoitre,
+in order to fix our position for the night. After having done this
+satisfactorily, we then turned our attention to the all-important
+operation of eating and drinking. While supping, an eccentric-looking
+person passed out through the apartment in which we were. His odd
+appearance excited our curiosity, and we inquired who this
+mysterious-looking gentleman was. We were informed that he was an
+Englishman, and that he had been lodging there for the last six months,
+but that he concealed his real name. He slept in one corner of a large
+barrack room, in which there were of course several other beds. On a small
+table by his bed-side there were a few French and Latin books, and some
+scraps of poetry touching on the <a name="Page_30"></a>tender passion. These, and a German
+flute, which we observed standing against the window, gave us some clue to
+his character. He was a tall, romantic-looking young man, apparently about
+twenty-seven or twenty-eight years of age. His dress was particularly
+shabby. This the landlord told us was from choice, not from necessity, as
+he had two trunks full of clothes nearly new. The reason he gave for
+dressing as he did, was his knowing, he said, that if he dressed well,
+people would be talking to him, which he wished to avoid; but, that by
+dressing as he did, he made sure that no one would ever think of giving
+him any annoyance of that kind. I thought this idea unique: and whether he
+be still at Niagara, or has taken up his abode at the foot of the Rocky
+mountains, I pronounce him to be a Diogenes without a tub. He has read at
+least one page in the natural history of civilized man.</p>
+
+<p>We visited the Falls, at the American side by moonlight. There was then an
+air of <a name="Page_31"></a>grandeur and sublimity in the scene which I shall long remember.
+Yet at this side they are not seen to the greatest advantage. Next morning
+I crossed the Niagara river, below the Falls, into Canada. I did not
+ascend the bank to take the usual route to the Niagara hotel, at which
+place there is a spiral staircase descending 120 feet towards the foot of
+the Falls, but clambered along at the base of the cliffs until I reached
+the point immediately below the stairs. I here rested, and indeed required
+it much, for the day was excessively warm, and I had unfortunately
+encumbered myself with my gun and shot pouch. The Falls are here seen in
+all their grandeur. Two immense volumes of water glide over perpendicular
+precipices upwards of 170 feet in height, and tumble among the crags below
+with a roaring that <i>we</i> distinctly heard on our approach to the village,
+at the distance of five miles up the river: and down the river it can be
+heard at a much greater distance. The Falls are divided by Goat Island
+into two <a name="Page_32"></a>parts. The body of water which falls to the right of the island
+is much greater than that which falls to the left; and the cliffs to the
+right assume the form of a horse-shoe. To the left there is also a
+considerable indentation, caused by a late falling in of the rock; but it
+scarcely appears from the Canadian side. The rushing of the waters over
+such immense precipices&mdash;the dashing of the spray, which rises in a white
+cloud at the base of the Falls, and is felt at the distance of a quarter
+of a mile&mdash;the many and beautiful rainbows that occasionally
+appear,&mdash;united, form a grand and imposing <i>coup d'oeil</i>.</p>
+
+<p>The Fall is supposed to have been originally at the table-land near
+Lewiston; and indeed, from the nature of the ground, and its present
+condition below the Falls, no reasonable objection can be entertained to
+that supposition. The upper part of the cliffs is composed of hard
+limestone, and underneath is a bed of schistus. Now this schistus is
+continually worn away by the water's dashing <a name="Page_33"></a>against it. This leaves the
+upper part, or immediate bed of the river, without foundation. When,
+therefore, from extraordinary floods, the pressure of the incumbent fluid
+becomes more than usually great, the rock gives way; and thus, gradually,
+the Falls have receded several miles.</p>
+
+<p>I at length ascended the stairs, and popped my head into the shanty, <i>sans
+ceremonie</i>, to the no small amazement of the cunning compounder of
+&quot;cock-tails,&quot; and &quot;mint julaps&quot; who presided at the bar. It was clear that
+I had ascended the stairs, but how the deuce I had got down was the
+question. I drank my &quot;brandy sling,&quot; and retreated before he had recovered
+from his surprise, and thus I escaped the volley of interrogatories with
+which I should have been most unsparingly assailed. I walked for some
+distance along the Canadian heights, and then crossed the river, where I
+met my friend waiting my return under a clump of scrub oak.</p>
+
+<p>We had previously determined on visiting <a name="Page_34"></a>the Tuscarora village, an Indian
+settlement about eight miles down the river, and not far from Ontario.
+This is a tribe of one of the six nations, the last that was admitted into
+the Confederation. They live in a state of community; and in their
+arrangements for the production and distribution of wealth, approach
+nearer to the Utopean system than any community with which I am
+acquainted. The squaws told us that no Indian there could claim any thing
+but what was contained within his own cabin; that the produce of the land
+was common property, and that they never quarrelled about its division. We
+dined in one of their cabins, on lean mutton and corn bread. The interior
+of their habitations is not conspicuous for cleanliness; nor are they so
+far civilized as to be capable of breaking their word. The people at the
+Niagara village told us, that with the exception of two individuals in
+that community, any Indian could get from them on credit either money or
+goods to whatever amount he required.</p><a name="Page_35"></a>
+
+<p>I here parted with my fellow traveller, perhaps for ever. He went to
+Lewiston, whence he intended to cross into Canada, and to walk along the
+shores of Ontario; whilst I made the best of my way back through the woods
+to Manchester. I certainly think our landlord had some misgivings
+respecting the fate of my companion. We had both departed together: I
+alone was armed&mdash;and I alone returned. However, as I unflinchingly stood
+examination and cross-examination, and sojourned until next morning, his
+fears seemed to be entirely dispelled. Next day I took a long, last look
+at Niagara, and departed for Tonawanta.</p>
+
+<p>At Tonawanta I again took the canal-boat to Buffalo, a considerable town
+on the shores of lake Erie, and at the head of the canal navigation. There
+are several good buildings in this town, and some well-appointed hotels.
+Lake schooners, and steam and canal boats are here in abundance, it being
+an entrep&ocirc;t for western produce and eastern merchandize.<a name="Page_36"></a> A few straggling
+Indians are to be seen skulking about Buffalo, like dogs in Cairo, the
+victims of the inordinate use of ardent spirits.</p>
+
+<p>From Buffalo I proceeded in a steamer along lake Erie, to Portland in
+Ohio, now called Sandusky City; the distance 240 miles. After about an
+hour's sail, we entirely lost sight of the Canadian shores. The scenery on
+the American side is very fine, particularly from Presqu' Isle onward to
+the head of the lake, or rather from its magnitude, it might be termed an
+inland sea.</p>
+
+<p>On landing at Sandusky, I learned that there were several Indian reserves
+between that place and Columbus, the seat of government. This determined
+me on making a pedestrian tour to that city. Accordingly, having forwarded
+my luggage, and made other necessary arrangements, I commenced my
+pergrinations among the Aborigines.</p>
+
+<p>The woods in the upper part of Ohio, nearest the lake, are tolerably open,
+and <a name="Page_37"></a>occasionally interspersed with sumach and sassafras: the soil
+somewhat sandy. I met with but few Indians, until my arrival at Lower
+Sandusky, on the Sandusky river; here there were several groups returning
+to their reserves, from Canada, where they had been to receive the annual
+presents made them by the British government. In the next county (Seneca)
+there is a reservation of about three miles square, occupied by Senecas,
+Cayugas, and part of the Iroquois or six nations, once a most powerful
+confederation amongst the red men.<a name="FNanchor_1_1"></a><a href="#Footnote_1_1"><sup>[1]</sup></a> In Crawford <a name="Page_38"></a>county there is a very
+large reserve belonging to the Huron or Wyandot Indians. These, though
+speaking a dialect of the Iroquois tongue, are more in connexion with the
+Delawares than with the Iroquois. The Wyandots are much esteemed by their
+white neighbours, for probity and good behaviour. They dress very
+tastefully. A handsome chintz shawl tied in the Moorish fashion about the
+head&mdash;leggings of blue cloth, reaching half way up the thigh, sewn at the
+outside, leaving a hem of about an inch deep&mdash;mocassins, or Indian boots,
+made of deer-skin, to fit the foot close, like a glove&mdash;a shirt or tunic
+of white calico&mdash;and a hunting shirt, or frock, made of strong
+blue-figured cotton or woollen cloth, with a small fringed cape, and long
+sleeves,&mdash;a tomahawk and scalping knife stuck in a broad leather belt.
+Accoutred in this manner, and mounted <a name="Page_39"></a>on a small hardy horse, called here
+an Indian pony, imagine a tall, athletic, brown man, with black hair and
+eyes&mdash;the hair generally plaited in front, and sometimes hanging in long
+wavy curls behind&mdash;aquiline nose, and fearless aspect, and you have a fair
+idea of the Wyandot and Cayuga Indian. The Senecas and Oneidas whom I met
+with, were not so handsome in general, but as athletic, and about the same
+average height&mdash;five feet nine or ten.</p>
+
+<p>The Indians here, as every where else, are governed by their own laws, and
+never have recourse to the whites to settle their disputes. That silent
+unbending spirit, which has always characterized the Indian, has alone
+kept in check the rapacious disposition of the whites. Several attempts
+have been made to induce the Indians to sell their lands, and go beyond
+the Mississippi, but hitherto without effect. The Indian replies to the
+fine speeches and wily language of the whites, &quot;We hold this small bit of
+land, in <a name="Page_40"></a>the vast country of our fathers, by <i>your</i> written talk, and it
+is noted on <i>our</i> wampums&mdash;the bones of our fathers lie here, and we
+cannot forsake them. You tell us our great father (the president) is
+powerful, and that his arm is long and strong&mdash;we believe it is so; but we
+are in hopes that he will not strike his red children for their lands, and
+that he will leave us this little piece to live upon&mdash;the hatchet is long
+buried, let it not be disturbed.&quot;</p>
+
+<p>Jackson has lately published a manifesto to all the Indian tribes within
+the limits of the United States, commanding them to sell their reserves;
+and with few exceptions, has been answered in this manner.</p>
+
+<p>A circumstance occurred a few days previous to my arrival, in the Seneca
+reserve, which may serve to illustrate the determined character of the
+Indian. There were three brothers (chiefs) dwelling in this reservation.
+&quot;Seneca John,&quot; the eldest brother, was the principal chief of the tribe,
+and a man much <a name="Page_41"></a>esteemed by the white people. He died by poison. The
+chiefs in council, having satisfactorily ascertained that his second
+brother &quot;Red-hand,&quot; and a squaw, had poisoned him, decreed that Red-hand
+should be put to death. &quot;Black-snake,&quot; the other brother, told the chiefs
+that if Red-hand must die, he himself would kill him, in order to prevent
+feuds arising in the tribe. Accordingly in the evening he repaired to the
+hut of Red-hand, and after having sat in silence for some time, said, &quot;My
+best chiefs say, you have killed my father's son,&mdash;they say my brother
+must die.&quot; Red-hand merely replied, &quot;They say so;&quot; and continued to smoke.
+After about fifteen minutes further silence, Black-snake said, pointing to
+the setting sun, &quot;When he appears above those trees&quot;&mdash;moving his arm round
+to the opposite direction&mdash;&quot;I come to kill you.&quot; Red-hand nodded his head
+in the short significant style of the Indian, and said &quot;Good.&quot; The next
+morning Black-snake came, followed by two chiefs, and having <a name="Page_42"></a>entered the
+hut, first put out the squaw, he then returned and stood before his
+brother, his eyes bent on the ground. Red-hand said calmly, &quot;Has my
+brother come that I may die?&quot;&mdash;&quot;It is so,&quot; was the reply. &quot;Then,&quot;
+exclaimed Red-hand, grasping his brother's left hand with his own right,
+and dashing the shawl from his head, &quot;Strike sure!&quot; In an instant the
+tomahawk was from the girdle of Black-snake, and buried in the skull of
+the unfortunate man. He received several blows before he fell, uttering
+the exclamation &quot;hugh,&quot; each time. The Indians placed him on the grass to
+die, where the backwoodsman who told me the story, saw him after the lapse
+of two hours, and life was not then extinct,&mdash;with such tenacity does it
+cling to the body of an Indian. The scalping knife was at length passed
+across his throat, and thus ended the scene.</p>
+
+<p>From Sandusky city, in Huron county, I passed into Sandusky county, and
+from thence through Seneca county. These three <a name="Page_43"></a>counties are entirely
+woodlands, with the exception of a few small prairies which lay eastward
+of my course. The land is generally fertile. Some light sandy soil is
+occasionally to be met with, which produces more quickly than the heavier
+soil, but not so abundantly. I saw in my travels through these counties a
+few persons who were ill of ague-fever, as it is here called. The
+prevalence of this disease is not to be attributed to a general
+unhealthiness of the climate, but can at all times be referred to
+localities.</p>
+
+<p>I next entered Crawford county, and crossed the Wyandot prairie, about
+seven miles in length, to Upper Sandusky. This was the first of those
+extensive meadows I had seen, and I was much pleased with its
+appearance&mdash;although this prairie is comparatively but small, yet its
+beauty cannot be surpassed; and the groves, and clusters of trees, <i>iles
+de bois</i>, with which it is interspersed, make it much resemble a beautiful
+domain.</p><a name="Page_44"></a>
+
+<p>Attached to the Wyandot reserve (nine miles by sixteen) is that of the
+Delawares (three miles square). On reaching Little Sandusky&mdash;Kahama's
+curse on the town baptizers of America!&mdash;there are often five or six
+places named alike in one state: upper and lower, little and big, great
+and small&mdash;and invariably the same names that are given to towns in one
+State, are to be found in every other. Then their vile plagiarisms of
+European names causes a Babelonish confusion of ideas, enough to disturb
+the equanimity of a &quot;grisly saint;&quot; and, with all humility, I disclaim
+having any pretensions to that character. I have frequently heard a
+long-legged, sallow-looking backwoodsman talk of having come lately from
+Paris, or Mecca, when instead of meaning the capital of <i>La grande
+nation</i>, or the city of &quot;the holy prophet,&quot; he spoke of some town
+containing a few hundred inhabitants, situated in the backwoods of
+Kentucky, or amidst the gloomy forests of Indiana. The Americans too speak
+in pros<a name="Page_45"></a>pective, when they talk of great places; no doubt &quot;calculating&quot;
+that, one day, all the mighty productions of the old world will be
+surpassed by their ingenuity and perseverance.</p>
+
+<p>I reached Little Sandusky about one o'clock in the day, and there learned
+that there was a treaty being holden with the Delawares&mdash;accordingly I
+repaired to the council ground. On a mat, under the shade of seven large
+elm trees, which in more prosperous times had waved over the war-like
+ancestors of this unfortunate people, were seated three old sachems, the
+principal of the tribe. The oldest appeared to be nearly eighty years of
+age, the next about seventy, and the last about fifty. On a chair to the
+right of the Indians was seated a young &quot;half-breed&quot; chief, the son of one
+of the sachems by a white squaw; and on their left, seated on another
+chair, a Delaware dressed in the costume of the whites. This young man was
+in the pay of the States, and <a name="Page_46"></a>acted as interpreter&mdash;he interpreting into
+and from the Delaware language, and a gentleman of the mission (a Captain
+Walker) into and from the Wyandot. At a table opposite the Indians were
+seated the commissioners.</p>
+
+<p>The Lenni Lenap&eacute;, or Delawares, as they were called by the English, from
+the circumstance of their holding their great &quot;Council-fire&quot; on the banks
+of the Delaware river, were once the most powerful of the several tribes
+that spoke the Delaware tongue, and possessed an immense tract of country
+east of the Alleghany mountains. This unfortunate people had been driven
+from place to place, until at last they were obliged to accept of an
+asylum from the Wyandot, whom they call their uncle; and now are forced to
+sell this, and go beyond the Mississippi. To a reflecting mind, the scene
+was touching beyond description. Here was the sad remnant of a great
+nation, who having been forced back from the original country of their
+fathers, by successive acts of rapacity, are <a name="Page_47"></a>now compelled to enter into
+a compact which obliges them, half civilized as they are, to return to the
+forest. The case is this,&mdash;the white people, or rather Jackson and the
+southerns, say, that the Indians &quot;retard improvement&quot;&mdash;precisely in the
+same sense that a brigand, when he robs a traveller, might say, that the
+traveller retarded improvement&mdash;that is, retarded <i>his</i> improvement,
+inasmuch as he had in his pocket, what would improve the condition of the
+brigand. The Indians have cultivated farms, and valuable tracts of land,
+and no doubt it will improve the condition of the whites, to get
+possession of those farms and rich lands, for <i>one tenth of their saleable
+value</i>. The profits that have accrued to the United States from the
+systematic plunder of the Indians, are immense, and a great portion of the
+national debt has been liquidated by this dishonest means.<a name="FNanchor_2_2"></a><a href="#Footnote_2_2"><sup>[2]</sup></a></p>
+
+<p>The reserve of the Delawares contained nine square miles, or 5760 acres.
+For this it <a name="Page_48"></a>was agreed at the treaty, that they should be paid 6000
+dollars, and the value of the improvements, which I conceived to be a fair
+bargain. I was not then aware of the practice pursued by the government,
+of making deductions, under various pretences, from the purchase-money,
+until the unfortunate Indian is left scarcely anything in lieu of his
+lands, and says, that &quot;the justice of the white man is not like the
+justice of the red man,&quot; and that he cannot understand the honesty of his
+Christian brother. The following extract, <a name="Page_49"></a>taken from the New York
+American, will give some insight into the mode of dealing with the
+Indians.</p>
+
+<p>&quot;<i>The last of the Ottowas</i>.&mdash;Maumee Bay, Ohio, Sept. 3, 1831.&mdash;Mr. James
+B. Gardiner has concluded a very important treaty at Maumee Bay, in
+Michigan, for a cession of all the lands owned by the Ottowa Indians in
+Ohio, about 50,000 acres. It was attended with more labour and greater
+difficulties than any other treaty made in this state: it was the last
+foothold which that savage, warlike, and hostile tribe held in their
+ancient dominion. The conditions of this treaty are very similar to those
+treaties of Lewistown and Wapaghkenetta, <i>with this exception</i>, that the
+surplus avails of their lands, <i>after deducting seventy cents per acre to
+indemnify the government</i>, are to be appropriated for paying the debts of
+their nation, which amount to about 20,000 dollars.&quot; [Query, what are
+those debts?&mdash;could they be the amount of <i>presents</i> made them on former
+occasions?] &quot;The balance,<a name="Page_50"></a> <i>if any</i>, accrues to the tribe. Seventy
+thousand acres of land are granted to them west of the Mississippi.<a name="FNanchor_3_3"></a><a href="#Footnote_3_3"><sup>[3]</sup></a> The
+Ottowas are the most depredating, drunken, and ferocious in Ohio. The
+reservations ceded by them are very valuable, and those on the Miami of
+the lake embrace some of the best mill privileges in the State.&quot;</p>
+
+<p>The Delawares were too few (being but fifty-one in number) to contend the
+matter, and therefore accepted of the proposed terms. At the conclusion of
+the conference, the Commissioners told them that they should have a barrel
+of flour, with the beef that had been killed for the occasion, which was
+received with &quot;Yo-ha!&mdash;Yo-ha!&quot; They then said, laughing, &quot;that they hoped
+their father would allow them a little milk,&quot; meaning whisky, which was
+accordingly granted. They drank of this modern Leth&eacute; and forgot for a time
+their misfortunes.</p>
+<a name="Page_51"></a>
+<p>On the Osage fork of the Merrimack river, there are two settlements of the
+Delawares, to the neighbourhood of which these Indians intend to remove.</p>
+
+<p>Near the Delaware reserve, I fell in with a young Indian, apparently about
+twenty years of age, and we journeyed together for several miles through
+the forest. He spoke English fluently, and conformed as far as his taste
+would permit him, to the habits of the whites. His dress consisted of a
+blue frock coat, blue cloth leggings, moccasins, a shawl tied about the
+head, and a red sash round his waste. In conversation, I asked him if he
+were not a Cayuga&mdash;: &quot;No,&quot; says he, &quot;an Oneida,&quot; placing both his hands on
+his breast&mdash;&quot;a <i>clear</i> Oneida.&quot; I could not help smiling at his national
+pride;&mdash;yet this is man: in every country and condition he is proud of his
+descent, and loves the race to which he belongs. This Oneida was a widow's
+son. He had sixteen acres of cleared land, which, with occasional
+assistance, he cultivated himself.<a name="Page_52"></a> When the produce was sold, he divided
+the proceeds with his mother, and then set out, and travelled until his
+funds were exhausted. He had just then returned from a tour to New York
+and Philadelphia, and had visited almost every city in the Union. As
+Guedeldk&mdash;that was the Oneida's name&mdash;and I were rambling along, we met a
+negro who was journeying in great haste&mdash;he stopped to inquire if we had
+seen that day, or the day previous, any nigger-woman going towards the
+lake. I had passed the day before two waggon loads of negros, which were
+being transported, by the state, to Canada. A local law prohibits the
+settlement of people of colour within the state of Ohio, which was now put
+in force, although it had remained dormant for many years.</p>
+
+<p>There was much hardship in the case of this poor fellow. He had left his
+family at Cincinnati, and had gone to work on the canal some eighteen or
+twenty miles distant. He had been absent about a week; and on his return
+he found his house empty, and was <a name="Page_53"></a>informed that his wife and children had
+been seized, and transported to Canada. The enforcement of this law has
+been since abandoned; and I must say, although the law itself is at
+variance with the Constitution of the United States, which is paramount to
+all other laws, that its abandonment is due entirely to the good feeling
+of the people of Ohio, who exclaimed loudly against the cruelty of the
+measure. </p><a name="Page_54"></a>
+
+<p>FOOTNOTES:</p>
+
+<a name="Footnote_1_1"></a><a href="#FNanchor_1_1">[1]</a><div class="note"><p> De Witt Clinton, speaking of the Iroquois, or five nations,
+says, &quot;Their exterior relations, general interests, and national affairs,
+were conducted and superintended by a great council, assembled annually in
+Onondaga, the central canton, composed of the chiefs of each republic; and
+eighty sachems were frequently convened at this national assembly. It took
+cognizance of the great questions of war and peace; of the affairs of the
+tributary nations, and their negotiations with the French and English
+colonies. All their proceedings were conducted with great deliberation,
+and were distinguished for order, decorum, and solemnity. In eloquence, in
+dignity, and in all the characteristics of profound policy, they surpassed
+the assembly of feudal barons, and perhaps were not inferior to the great
+Amphictyonic Council of Greece.&quot;</p></div>
+
+<a name="Footnote_2_2"></a><a href="#FNanchor_2_2">[2]</a><div class="note">
+<pre>
+                                               Dollars.
+
+ Amount of lands sold up to the year 1824    44,229,837
+
+173,176,606 acres unsold, estimated at one
+dollar per acre. The Congress price was
+then two dollars, but was subsequently
+reduced to a dollar and a quarter, and
+is now 75 cents.                            173,176,606
+                                            -----------
+                                            217,406,443
+
+Deduct value of annuities, expenses of
+surveying, &amp;c. &amp;c., being the amount of
+purchase-money paid for same                  4,243,632
+                                            -----------
+
+Profit arising to the United States from
+purchases of land from the Indians          213,162,811
+                                            -----------
+Allowing 480 cents, to the pound sterling, the gross
+          profit is £44,408,918. 19<i>s</i>. 2<i>d</i>.
+</pre>
+</div>
+
+<a name="Footnote_3_3"></a><a href="#FNanchor_3_3">[3]</a><div class="note"><p> There are lands west of the Mississippi, which would be dear
+at ten cents per hundred acres.</p></div>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;">
+<a name="CHAPTER_III"></a><h2><a name="Page_55"></a>CHAPTER III</h2>
+<br>
+
+<p>From Little Sandusky, I passed through Marion, in Marion county. This
+town, like most others in Ohio, is advancing rapidly, and has at present
+several good brick buildings. The clap-boarded frame houses, which compose
+the great mass of habitations in the towns throughout the western country,
+in general have a neat appearance. I here saw gazetted three divorces, all
+of which had been granted on the applications of the wives. One, on the
+ground of the husband's absenting himself for one year: another, on
+account of a blow having been given: and the third for general neglect.
+There are few instances of a woman's being refused a divorce in the
+western coun<a name="Page_56"></a>try, as dislike is very generally&mdash;and very
+rationally&mdash;supposed to constitute a sufficient reason for granting the
+ladies their freedom.</p>
+
+<p>I crossed Delaware county into Franklin county, where Columbus, the
+capital of the state, is situated. The roads from the lake to this city,
+with few exceptions, passed through woodlands, and the country is but
+thinly settled. Beech, oak, elm, hickory, walnut, white-oak, ash, &amp;c.
+compose the bulk of the forest trees; and in the bottom lands, enormous
+sycamores are to be seen stretching their white arms almost to the very
+clouds. The land is of various denominations, but in general may be termed
+fertile.</p>
+
+<p>Columbus, the capital of Ohio, is seated on the Scioto river, which is
+navigable for keel and flat boats, and small craft, almost to its source;
+and by means of a portage of about four miles, to Sandusky river, which
+flows into lake Erie, a convenient communication is established between
+the lakes, and the great western waters. The town is well laid out.<a name="Page_57"></a> The
+streets are wide; and the court-house, town-hall, and public offices, are
+built of brick. There are some good taverns here, and the tables d'h&ocirc;tes
+are well and abundantly supplied.</p>
+
+<p>There are land offices in every county seat, in which maps and plans of
+the county are kept. On these, the disposable tracts of country are
+distinguished from those which have been disposed of. The purchaser pays
+one fourth of the purchase money, for which he gets a receipt,&mdash;this
+constitutes his title, until, on paying the residue, he receives a regular
+title deed. He may however pay the full amount at once, and receive a
+discount of, I believe, eight per cent. A township comprises thirty-six
+square miles (twenty three thousand and forty acres) in sections of six
+hundred and forty acres each, which are subdivided, to accommodate
+purchasers, into quarter sections, or lots of a hundred and sixty acres.
+The sixteenth section is not sold, but reserved for the support of the
+poor, for <a name="Page_58"></a>education, and other public uses. There is no provision made in
+this, or any other state, for the ministers of religion, which is found to
+be highly beneficial to the interests of practical Christianity. The
+congress price of land has lately been reduced from a dollar and a quarter
+per acre, to seventy-five cents.</p>
+
+<p>Ohio averages 184 miles in extent, from north to south, and 220 miles from
+east to west. Area, 40,000 square miles, or 25,600,000 acres. The
+population in 1790, was 3000; in 1800, 45,365; in 1810, 230,760; and in
+1820, 581,434. White males, 300,609; white females, 275,955; free people
+of colour, 4723; militia in 1821, 83,247. The last census, taken in 1830,
+makes the population 937,679.</p>
+
+<p>Having no more Indian reserves to visit, I took the stage, and rumbled
+over corduroys, republicans, stumps, and ruts, until my ribs were
+literally sore, through London, Xenia, and Lebanon, to Cincinnati.</p>
+
+<p>At Lebanon there is a large community of <a name="Page_59"></a>the shaking Quakers. They have
+establishments also in Mason county, and at Covington, in Kentucky: their
+tenets are strictly Scriptural. They contend, that confessing their sins
+to one another, is necessary to a state of perfection; that the church of
+Christ ought to have all things in common; that none of the members of
+this church ought to cohabit, but be literally virgins; and that to dance
+and be merry is their duty, which part of their doctrines they take from
+the thirty-first chapter of Jeremiah.</p>
+
+<p>Their ceremonies are as follows:&mdash;The men sit on the left hand, squatting
+on the floor, with their knees up, and their hands clasped round them.
+Opposite, in the same posture, sit the women, whose appearance is most
+cadaverous and sepulchral, dressed in the Quaker costume. After sitting
+for some time in this hatching position, they all rise and sing a canting
+sort of hymn, during which the women keep time by elevating themselves on
+their toes. After the singing <a name="Page_60"></a>has ceased, a discourse is delivered by one
+of the elders; which being ended, the men pull off their coats and
+waistcoats. All being prepared, one of the brethren steps forward to the
+centre of the room, and in a loud voice, gives out a tune, beating time
+with his foot, and singing <i>lal lal la, lal lal la</i>, &amp;c., being joined by
+the whole group, all jumping as high as possible, clapping their hands,
+and at intervals twirling round,&mdash;but making rather ungraceful
+<i>pirouettes</i>: this exercise they continue until they are completely
+exhausted. In their ceremonials they much resemble the howling Dervishes
+of the Moslems, whom they far surpass in fanaticism.</p>
+
+<p>Within about ten miles of Cincinnati we took up an old doctor, who was
+going to that city for the purpose of procuring a warrant against one of
+his neighbours, who, he had reason to believe, was concerned in the
+kidnapping of a free negro the night before. This is by no means an
+uncommon occurrence in the free states bordering the great <a name="Page_61"></a>rivers. The
+unfortunate black man, when captured, is hurried down to the river, thrust
+into a flat boat, and carried to the plantations. Such negros are not
+exposed for sale in the public bazaars, as that would be attended with
+risk; but a false bill of sale is made out, and the sale is effected to
+some planter before they reach Orleans. There is, of course, always
+collusion between the buyer and seller, and the man is disposed of,
+generally, for half his value.</p>
+
+<p>These are certainly atrocious acts; yet when a British subject reads such
+passages as the following, in the histories of East India government, he
+must feel that if they were ten times as infamous and numerous as they are
+in reality, it becomes not <i>him</i> to censure them. Bolts, who was a judge
+of the mayor's court of Calcutta, says, in his &quot;Considerations on India
+Affairs,&quot; page 194, &quot;With every species of monopoly, therefore, every kind
+of oppression to manufacturers of all denominations throughout the whole
+country <a name="Page_62"></a>has daily increased; insomuch that weavers, for daring to sell
+their goods, and Dallals and Pykars, for having contributed to, or
+connived at, such sales, have by the <i>Company's agents,</i> been frequently
+seized and imprisoned, confined in irons, fined considerable sums of
+money, flogged, and deprived, in the most ignominious manner, of what they
+esteem most valuable, their castes. Weavers also, upon their inability to
+perform such agreements as have been <i>forced from them by the Company's
+agents</i>, universally known in Bengal by the name of <i>Mutchulcahs</i>, have
+had their goods seized and sold on the spot, to make good the deficiency:
+and the winders of raw silk, called <i>Nagaards</i>, have been treated also
+with such injustice, that instances have been known of their cutting off
+their thumbs, to prevent their being forced to wind silk. This last kind
+of workmen were pursued with such rigour, during Lord Clive's late
+government in Bengal, from a zeal for <i>increasing the Company's
+investment</i> of raw silk, that the most <a name="Page_63"></a>sacred laws of society were
+atrociously violated; for it was <i>a common thing for the Company's
+scapoys</i> to be sent by force of arms to break open the houses of the
+Armenian merchants established at Sydabad (who have from time immemorial
+been largely concerned in the silk trade), and forcibly take the
+<i>Nagaards</i> from their work, and carry them away to the English factory.&quot;</p>
+
+<p>As we approached Cincinnati the number of farms, and the extent of
+cultivated country, indicated the comparative magnitude of that city.
+Fields in this country have nothing like the rich appearance of those in
+England and Ireland, being generally filled with half-rotten stumps,
+scattered here and there among the growing corn, producing a most
+disagreeable effect. Then, instead of the fragrant quickset hedge, there
+is a &quot;worm fence&quot;&mdash;the rudest description of barrier known in the
+country&mdash;which consists simply of bars, about eight or nine feet in
+length, laid zig-zag on each other alternately: the <a name="Page_64"></a>improvement on this,
+and the <i>ne plus ultra</i> in the idea of a west country farmer, is what is
+termed a &quot;post and rail fence.&quot; This denomination of fence is to be seen
+sometimes in the vicinity of the larger towns, and is constructed of posts
+six feet in length, sunk in the ground to the depth of about a foot, and
+at eight or ten feet distance; the rails are then laid into mortises cut
+into the posts, at intervals of about thirteen or fourteen inches, which
+completes the work.</p>
+
+<p>Cincinnati is built on a bend of the Ohio river, which takes here a
+semicircular form, and runs nearly west; it afterwards flows in a more
+southerly direction. A complete chain of hills, sweeping from one point of
+the bend round to the other, encloses the city in a sort of amphitheatre.
+The houses are mostly brick, and the streets all paved. There are several
+spacious and handsome market houses, which on market days are stocked with
+all kinds of provisions&mdash;indeed I think the market of Cincinnati is very
+<a name="Page_65"></a>nearly the best supplied in the United States. There are many respectable
+public buildings here, such as a court-house, theatre, bazaar, (built by
+Mrs. Trollope, but the speculation failed), and divers churches, in which
+you may see well-dressed women, and hear orthodox, heterodox, and every
+other species of doctrine, promulgated and enforced by strength of lungs,
+and length of argument, with pulpit-drum accompaniment, and all other
+requisites <i>ad captandum vulgus</i>.</p>
+
+<p>The city stands on two plains: one called the bottom, extends about 260
+yards back from the river, and is three miles in length, from Deer Creek
+to Mill Creek; the other is fifty feet higher than the first, and is
+called the Hill; this extends back about a mile. The bottom is sixty-five
+feet above low water mark. In 1815 the population was estimated at 6000,
+and at present it is supposed to be upwards of 25,000 souls. By means of
+the Dayton canal, which runs from that town nearly parallel with the &quot;Big
+Miami&quot;<a name="Page_66"></a> river, a very extensive trade, for all kinds of produce, is
+established with the back country. Steamers are constantly arriving at,
+and departing from the wharf, on their passage up and down the river. This
+is one of the many examples to be met with in the western country, of
+towns springing into importance within the memory of comparatively young
+men&mdash;a log-house is still standing, which is shewn as the first habitation
+built by the backwoodsman, who squatted in the forest where now stands a
+handsome and flourishing city.</p>
+
+<p>On arriving at Cincinnati, I learned that my friend T&mdash;&mdash; had taken up his
+abode at a farm-house a few miles from town, where I accordingly repaired,
+and found him in good health, and initiated into all the manners, habits,
+customs, and diversions of the natives. Farming people in Ohio work hard.
+The women have no sinecures, being occupied the greater part of the day in
+cooking; as they breakfast at eight, dine at half-past <a name="Page_67"></a>twelve, and sup at
+six, and at each of these meals, meat, and other cooked dishes are served
+up. In farming they co-operate with each other. When a farmer wishes to
+have his corn husked, he rides round to his neighbours and informs them of
+his intention. An invitation of this kind was once given in my presence.
+The farmer entered the house, sat down, and after the customary
+compliments were passed, in the usual laconic style, the following
+dialogue took place. &quot;I guess I'll husk my corn to-morrow
+afternoon.&quot;&mdash;&quot;You've a mighty heap this year.&quot;&mdash;&quot;Considerable of corn.&quot;
+The host at length said, &quot;Well, I guess we'll be along&quot;&mdash;and the matter
+was arranged. All these gatherings are under the denomination of
+&quot;frolics&quot;&mdash;such as &quot;corn-husking frolic,&quot; &quot;apple-cutting frolic,&quot;
+&quot;quilting frolic,&quot; &amp;c.</p>
+
+<p>Being somewhat curious in respect to national amusements, I attended a
+&quot;corn-husking frolic&quot; in the neighbourhood of Cincinnati. The corn was
+heaped up into a <a name="Page_68"></a>sort of hillock close by the granary, on which the young
+&quot;Ohiohians&quot; and &quot;buck-eyes&quot;&mdash;the lasses of Ohio are called
+&quot;buck-eyes&quot;&mdash;seated themselves in pairs; while the old wives, and old
+farmers were posted around, doing little, but talking much. Now the laws
+of &quot;corn-husking frolics&quot; ordain, that for each red ear that a youth
+finds, he is entitled to exact a kiss from his partner. There were two or
+three young Irishmen in the group, and I could observe the rogues kissing
+half-a-dozen times on the same red ears. Each of them laid a red-ear close
+by him, and after every two or three he'd husk, up he'd hold the
+redoubtable red-ear to the astonished eyes of the giggling lass who sate
+beside him, and most unrelentingly inflict the penalty. The &quot;gude wives&quot;
+marvelled much at the unprecedented number of red-ears which that lot of
+corn contained: by-and-by, they thought it &quot;a kind of curious&quot; that the
+Irishmen should find so many of them&mdash;at length, the cheat was discovered,
+<a name="Page_69"></a>amidst roars of laughter. The old farmers said the lads were &quot;wide
+awake,&quot; and the &quot;buck-eyes&quot; declared that there was no being up to the
+plaguy Irishmen &quot;no how,&quot; for they were always sure to have every thing
+their own way. But the mischief of it was, the young Americans took the
+hint, and the poor &quot;buck-eyes&quot; got nothing like fair play for the
+remainder of that evening. All agreed that there was more laughing, and
+more kissing done at that, than had been known at any corn-husking frolic
+since &quot;the Declaration.&quot;</p>
+
+<p>The farmers of Ohio are a class of people about equivalent to our second
+and third rate farmer, inasmuch as they work themselves, but possessing
+infinitely more independence in their character and deportment. Every
+white male, who is a citizen of the United States, and has resided one
+year in the state, and paid taxes, has a vote. The members of the
+legislature are elected annually, and those of the senate biennially; half
+of the <a name="Page_70"></a>members of the latter branch vacating their seats every year. The
+representatives, in addition to the qualifications necessary to the
+elector, must be twenty-five years of age; and the senators must have
+resided in the state two years, and must be thirty years of age. The
+governor must be thirty years of age, an inhabitant of the state four
+years, and a citizen of the United States twelve years,&mdash;he is eligible
+only for six years in eight.</p>
+
+<p>Notwithstanding the numerous religious sects that are to be found in this
+country, there is nothing like sectarian animosity prevailing. This is to
+be attributed to the ministers of religion being paid as they deserve, and
+no one class of people being taxed to support the religious tenets of
+another.</p>
+
+<p>The farmers of this state are by no means religious, in a doctrinal sense;
+on the contrary, they appear indifferent on matters of this nature. The
+girls <i>sometimes</i> go to church, which here, as in all Christian countries,
+is <a name="Page_71"></a>equivalent to the bazaars of Smyrna and Bagdad; and as the girls go,
+their &quot;dads&quot; must pay the parson. The Methodists are very zealous, and
+have frequent &quot;revivals&quot; and &quot;camp-meetings.&quot; I was at two of the latter
+assemblages, one in Kentucky, and the other in Ohio. I shall endeavour to
+convey some idea of this extraordinary species of religious festival.</p>
+
+<p>To the right of Cheriot, which lies in a westerly direction, about ten
+miles from Cincinnati, under the shade of tall oak and elm trees, the camp
+was pitched in a quadrangular form. Three sides were occupied by tents for
+the congregation, and the fourth by booths for the preachers. A little in
+advance before the booths was erected a platform for the performing
+preacher, and at the foot of this, inclosed by forms, was a species of
+sanctuary, called &quot;the penitents' pen.&quot; People of every denomination might
+be seen here, allured by various motives. The girls, dressed in all
+colours of the rain<a name="Page_72"></a>bow, congregated to display their persons and
+costumes; the young men came to see the girls, and considered it a sort of
+&quot;frolic;&quot; and the old women, induced by fanaticism, and other motives,
+assembled in large numbers, and waited with patience for the proper season
+of repentance. At the intervals between the &quot;preachments,&quot; the young
+married and unmarried women promenaded round the tents, and their smiling
+faces formed a striking contrast to the demure countenances of their more
+experienced sisters, who, according to their age or temperament, descanted
+on the folly, or condemned the sinfulness of such conduct. Some of those
+old dames, I was informed, were decoy birds, who shared the profits with
+the preachers, and attended all the &quot;camp-meetings&quot; in the country.</p>
+
+<p>The psalmodies were performed in the true Yankee style of nasal-melody,
+and at proper and seasonable intervals the preachings were delivered. The
+preachers managed their tones and discourses admirably, <a name="Page_73"></a>and certainly
+displayed a good deal of tact in their calling. They use the most
+extravagant gestures&mdash;astounding bellowings&mdash;a canting hypocritical
+whine&mdash;slow and solemn, although by no means <i>musical</i> intonations, and
+the <i>et ceteras</i> that complete the qualifications of a regular
+camp-meeting methodist parson. During the exhortations the brothers and
+sisters were calling out&mdash;Bless God! glory! glory! amen! God grant! Jesus!
+&amp;c.</p>
+
+<p>At the adjournment for dinner, a knowing-looking gentleman was appointed
+to deliver an admonition. I admired this person much for the ingenuity he
+displayed in introducing the subject of collection, and the religious
+obligation of each and every individual to contribute largely to the
+support of the preacher and his brothers of the vineyard. He set forth the
+respectability of the county, as evinced by former contributions, and
+thence inferred, most logically, that the continuance of that respectable
+character depended on the amount of that day's col<a name="Page_74"></a>lection. A conversation
+took place behind me, during this part of the preacher's exhortation,
+between three young farmers, which, as being characteristic, I shall
+repeat.</p>
+
+<p>&quot;The old man is wide awake, I guess.&quot;</p>
+
+<p>&quot;I reckon he knows a thing or two.&quot;</p>
+
+<p>&quot;I calculate he's been on board a flat afore now.&quot;</p>
+
+<p>&quot;Yes, I guess a Yankee 'd find it damned hard to sell him <i>hickory</i>
+nutmegs.&quot;</p>
+
+<p>&quot;It'd take a pretty smart man to poke it on to a parson any how.&quot;</p>
+
+<p>&quot;I guess'd it'd come to dollars and cents in the end.&quot;</p>
+
+<p>After sunset the place was lighted up by beacon fires and candles, and the
+scene seemed to be changing to one of more deep and awful interest. About
+nine o'clock the preachers began to rally their forces&mdash;the candles were
+snuffed&mdash;fuel was added to the fires&mdash;clean straw was shook in the
+&quot;penitents' pen&quot;&mdash;and every movement &quot;gave dreadful note of preparation.&quot;
+At length the <a name="Page_75"></a>hour was sounded, and the faithful forthwith assembled. A
+chosen leader commenced to harangue&mdash;he bellowed&mdash;he roared&mdash;he whined&mdash;he
+shouted until he became actually hoarse, and the perspiration rolled down
+his face. Now, the faithful seemed to take the infection, and as if
+overcome by their excited feelings, flung themselves headlong on the straw
+into the penitents' pen&mdash;the old dames leading the way. The preachers, to
+the number of a dozen, gave a loud shout and rushed into the thick of the
+penitents. A scene now ensued that beggars all description. About twenty
+women, young and old, were lying in every direction and position, with
+caps and without caps, screeching, bawling, and kicking in hysterics, and
+profaning the name of Jesus. The preachers, on their knees amongst them,
+were with Stentorian voices exhorting them to call louder and louder on
+the Lord, until he came upon them; whilst their <i>attach&eacute;es,</i> with
+turned-up eyes and smiling countenances, were chanting hymns and shaking
+<a name="Page_76"></a>hands with the multitude. Some would now and then give a hearty laugh,
+which is an indication of superior grace, and is called &quot;the holy laugh.&quot;
+The scene altogether was highly entertaining&mdash;penitents, parsons, caps,
+combs, and straw, jumbled in one heterogeneous mass, lay heaving on the
+ground, and formed at this juncture a grouping that might be done justice
+to by the pencil of Hogarth, or the pen of the author of Hudibras; but of
+which I fear an inferior pen or pencil must fail in conveying an adequate
+idea.</p>
+
+<p>The women were at length carried off, fainting, by their friends, and the
+preachers began to prepare for another scene. From the time of those
+faintings, the &quot;new birth&quot; is dated, which means a spiritual resurrection
+or revival.</p>
+
+<p>The scene that followed appeared to be a representation of &quot;the Last
+Supper.&quot; The preachers assembled round a table, and acted as disciples,
+whilst one of them, the leader, <a name="Page_77"></a>presided. The bread was consecrated,
+divided and eaten&mdash;the wine served much after the same manner. The
+faithful, brothers and sisters, were now called upon to partake of the
+Sacrament&mdash;proper warning, however, being given to the gentlemen, that
+when the wine was handed to them, they were not to take a <i>drink</i>, as that
+was quite unnecessary, as a small sup would answer every purpose. One
+gentleman seemed to have forgotten this hint, and attempted to take rather
+more than a sup; but he was prevented by the administering preacher
+snatching the goblet from him with both hands. Many said they were obliged
+to substitute <i>brandy and water</i> for wine; but for this fact I cannot
+vouch. Another straw-tumbling scene now began; and, as if by way of
+variety, the inmates of five or six tents got up similar scenes among
+themselves. The preachers left the field to join the tenters; and, if
+possible, surpassed their previous exhibitions. The women were
+occasionally making confessions, <i>pro bono <a name="Page_78"></a>publico</i>, when sundry
+&quot;backslidings&quot; were acknowledged for the edification of the multitude. We
+left the camp about two o'clock in the morning, when these poor fanatics
+were still in full cry.</p>
+
+<p>At Hell Town, near this place, there was an officer's muster held about
+this time. Every citizen exercising the elective franchise is also
+eligible to serve in the militia. There are two general musters held every
+year in each county, and several company meetings. Previous to the general
+muster there is an officer's muster, when the captains and subalterns are
+put through their exercise by the field officers. At this muster, which I
+attended, the superior officers in command certainly appeared to be
+sufficiently conversant with tactics, and explained the rationale of each
+movement in a clear and concise manner; but the captains and subalterns
+went through their exercise somewhat in the manner of the yeomen of the
+Green Island. When the gentlemen were <a name="Page_79"></a>placed in line, and attention was
+commanded, the General turned round to converse with his coadjutors&mdash;no
+sooner had he done this than about twenty heroes squatted <i>a l' Indien;</i>
+no doubt deeming it more consistent, the day being warm, to sit than
+stand. On the commander observing this movement, which he seemed to think
+quite unmilitary, he remonstrated&mdash;the warriors arose; but, alas! the just
+man <i>falls</i> seven times a day, and the militia officers of Hamilton county
+seemed to think it not derogatory to their characters to <i>squat</i> five or
+six. The offence was repeated several times, and as often censured. They
+wheeled into battalions, and out of battalions, in most glorious
+disorder&mdash;their <i>straight</i> lines were <i>zig-zag.</i> In marching abreast, they
+came to a fence next the road&mdash;the tavern was opposite, and the temptation
+too great to be resisted&mdash;a number threw down their muskets&mdash;tumbled
+themselves over the fence, and rushed into the bar-room to refresh! An
+American's heart sickens at restraint, and <a name="Page_80"></a>nothing but necessity will
+oblige him to observe discipline.</p>
+
+<p>The question naturally arises, how would these forces resist the finely
+disciplined troops of Europe? The answer is short: If the Americans would
+consent to fight <i>&agrave; bataille rang&eacute;e</i> on one of the prairies of Illinois,
+undoubtedly the disciplined troops would prevail; but as neither their
+experience nor inclination is likely to lead them into such circumstances,
+my opinion is, that send the finest army Europe can produce into this
+country, in six months, the forests, swamps, and deadly rifle, united,
+will annihilate it&mdash;and let it be remembered, that at the battle of New
+Orleans, there were between two and three thousand British slain, and
+there were only twelve Americans killed, and perhaps double that number
+wounded. In patriotism and personal courage, the Americans are certainly
+not inferior to the people of any nation.</p>
+
+<p>There had been lately throughout the<a name="Page_81"></a> States a good deal of excitement
+produced by an attempt, made by the Presbyterians, to stop the mails on
+the sabbath. This party is headed by a Doctor Ely, of Philadelphia, a
+would-be &quot;lord spiritual,&quot; and they made this merely as a trial of
+strength, preparatory to some other measures calculated to lead to a
+church establishment. Their designs, however, have been detected, and
+measures accordingly taken to resist them. At a meeting at which I was
+present at Cincinnati, the people were most enthusiastic, and some very
+strong resolutions were passed, expressive of their abhorrence of this
+attempt to violate the constitution of America.</p>
+
+<p>Good farms within about three or four miles of Cincinnati, one-third
+cleared, are sold at from thirty to fifty dollars per acre. Cows sell at
+from ten to twenty dollars. Horses, at from twenty-five to seventy-five
+and one hundred dollars. Sheep from two to three dollars. There are some
+tolerable flocks of sheep throughout this state, but <a name="Page_82"></a>they are of little
+value beyond the price of the wool, a most unaccountable antipathy to
+mutton existing among the inhabitants.</p>
+
+<p>Whilst on the banks of Lake Erie, having heard a great deal of
+conversation about the &quot;lake fever,&quot; I made several inquiries from the
+inhabitants on that subject, the result of which confirmed me in the
+opinion, that the shores of the lakes are quite as healthy as any other
+part of the country, and that here, as elsewhere, the disease arises from
+stagnant pools, swamps, and masses of decayed animal and vegetable matter,
+which are allowed to remain and accumulate in the vicinity of settlements.
+When at New York, I met an old and wealthy farmer, who was himself,
+although eighty years of age, in the enjoyment of rude health. He informed
+me that he had resided in Canada, on the shores of Lake Erie, for the last
+fifty years, and that neither he nor any one of his family had ever been
+afflicted with fever of any description. The district in which he lived,
+was <a name="Page_83"></a>entirely free from local nuisances, and the inhabitants he
+represented as being as healthy as any in the United States.</p>
+
+<p>My observations, so far, lead me to conclude, that this climate agrees
+fully as well with Europeans as with the natives, indeed that the
+susceptibility to fever and ague is greater in the natives than in
+Europeans of good habits. The cause I conceive to be this: the early
+settlers had to encounter swamps of the most pestilential description, and
+dense forests through which the sun's rays had never penetrated, and which
+industry and cultivation have since made in a great measure to disappear.
+They notoriously suffered much from the ravages of malaria, and such as
+survived the baleful effects of this disease, escaped with impaired
+constitutions. Now this susceptibility to intermittent fever, appears to
+me to have been transmitted to their descendants, and to act as the
+predisposing cause. I have seen English and Irish people who have been <a name="Page_84"></a>in
+the country upwards of thirty years, who look just as you would expect to
+find persons of their age at home.</p>
+
+<p>There are situations evidently unhealthy, such as river bottoms, and the
+vicinity of creeks. The soil in those situations is alluvial, and its
+extreme fertility often induces unfortunate people to reside in them. The
+appearance of those persons in general is truly wretched.</p>
+
+<p>The women here, although they live as long as those in the old country,
+yet they fade much sooner, and, with few exceptions, have bad teeth.</p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;">
+<a name="CHAPTER_IV"></a><h2><a name="Page_85"></a>CHAPTER IV</h2>
+<br>
+
+<p>Having decided on visiting New Harmony, in Indiana, where our friend B&mdash;&mdash;
+had been for some time enjoying the delights of sylvan life, and the
+refinements of backwoods-society, T&mdash;&mdash; and I purchased a horse, and
+Dearborne, a species of light waggon used in this country for travelling.
+We furnished ourselves with a small axe, hunting knives, and all things
+necessary for encamping when occasion required, and so set out about the
+beginning of September.</p>
+
+<p>We crossed the Big-Miami river, and proceeded by a tolerable road, and
+some good farms, to Lawrenceburg, a handsome town on the Ohio, within a
+mile of the outlet <a name="Page_86"></a>of the Miami. From thence we drove on towards
+Wilmington; but our horse becoming jaded, we found it expedient to &quot;camp
+out,&quot; within some miles of that town. Next morning we passed through
+Wilmington, but lost the direct track through the forest, and took the
+road to Versailles, which lay in a more northerly direction than the route
+we had proposed to ourselves. This road was one of those newly cut through
+the forest, and there frequently occurred intervals of five or six miles
+between the settlements; and of the road itself, a tolerably correct idea
+may be formed by noting the stipulations made with the contractors, which
+are solely that the roads shall be of a certain width, and that no stump
+shall be left projecting more than <i>fifteen inches</i> above the ground.</p>
+
+<p>On the night of the second day we reached the vicinity of Versailles, and
+put up at the residence of a backwoodsman&mdash;a fine looking fellow, with a
+particularly ugly <i>squaw</i>. He had come from Kentucky five years
+<a name="Page_87"></a>before&mdash;sat down in the forest&mdash;&quot;built him&quot; a log-house&mdash;wielded his axe
+to the tune of &quot;The Hunters of Kentucky,&quot; and had now eighteen acres of
+cleared land, and all the <i>et ceteras</i> of a farm. We supped off
+venison-steaks and stewed squirrel. Our host told us that there was &quot;a
+pretty smart chance of deer&quot; in the neighbourhood, and that when he first
+&quot;located,&quot; &quot;there was a small sprinkling of <i>baar</i>&quot; (bear), but that at
+present nothing of the kind was to be seen. There was very little comfort
+in the appearance of this establishment; yet the good dame had a
+side-saddle, hung on a peg in one of the apartments, which would not have
+disgraced the lady of an Irish squireen. This appears to be an article of
+great moment in the estimation of West-country ladies, and when nothing
+else about the house is even tolerable, the side-saddle is of the most
+fashionable pattern.</p>
+
+<p>From Versailles, we took the track to Vernon, through a rugged and swampy
+road, <a name="Page_88"></a>it having rained the night before. The country is hilly, and
+interspersed with runs, which are crossed with some difficulty, the
+descents and ascents being very considerable. The stumps, &quot;corduroys&quot;
+(rails laid horizontally across the road where the ground is marshy)
+swamps, and &quot;republicans,&quot; (projecting roots of trees, so called from the
+stubborn tenacity with which they adhere to the ground, it being almost
+impossible to grub them up), rendered the difficulty of traversing this
+forest so great, that notwithstanding our utmost exertions we were unable
+to make more than sixteen miles from sunrise to sunset, when, both the
+horse and ourselves being completely exhausted, we halted until morning. I
+was awoke at sunrise by a &quot;white-billed woodpecker,&quot; which was making the
+woods ring by the rattling of its bill against a tree. This is a large
+handsome bird, (the <i>picus principalis</i> of Linnaeus), it is sometimes
+called here the wood-cock. Pigeons, squirrels, and turtle-<a name="Page_89"></a>doves abound in
+all these forests, and my friend being an expert gunner, we had always
+plenty of game for dinner. The morning was still grey when we set forward.</p>
+
+<p>We forded the Muskakituck river at Vernon, which stands on its head
+waters, and is a country seat. We then directed our course to Brownstown,
+on the east branch of White river. We found the roads still bad until we
+came within about ten miles of that place. There the country began to
+assume a more cultivated appearance, and the roads became tolerably good,
+being made through a sandy or gravelly district. In the neighbourhood of
+Brownstown there are some rich lands, and from that to Salem, a distance
+of twenty-two miles, we were much pleased with the country. We had been
+hitherto journeying through dense forests, and except when we came to a
+small town, could never see more than about ten yards on either side. All
+through Indiana the peaches were in great abundance this year, and such
+was the weight <a name="Page_90"></a>of fruit the trees had to sustain, that the branches were
+invariably broken where not propped.</p>
+
+<p>From Salem we took a westward track by Orleans to Hindostan, crossed the
+east branch of White river, and passed through Washington. At a short
+distance from this town, we had to cross White river again, near the west
+branch, which is much larger than the east branch. We attempted to ford
+it, and had got into the middle of the stream before we discovered that
+the bottom was quicksands. The horse was scared at the footing,&mdash;he
+plunged and broke the traces; however, after a tolerable wetting, we
+succeeded in getting safe out. A little above the place where we made the
+attempt, we found there was a ferry-flat. The ferryman considered our
+attempt as dangerous, for had we gone much further into the stream we
+should have shot into the quicksands in the deep current. This day the
+fates were most unpropitious to us; and had we had, like Socrates, a
+<a name="Page_91"></a>familiar demon at our elbow, he most assuredly would have warned us not
+to proceed. We had no sooner got into the ferry-flat, and pushed off from
+shore, than the horse tumbled overboard, carriage and all, and was with
+difficulty saved from drowning.</p>
+
+<p>We passed through Petersburg to Princeton; but having lost the track, and
+got into several <i>culs de sacs</i>, an occurrence which is by no means
+pleasant&mdash;as in this case you are unable to turn the carriage, and have no
+alternative but cutting down one or two small trees in order to effect a
+passage. After a great deal of danger and difficulty, we succeeded in
+returning on the true bridle-path, and arrived about ten at night in a
+small village, through which we had passed three hours before. The gloom
+and pitchy darkness of an American forest at night, cannot be conceived by
+the inhabitants of an open country, and the traversing a narrow path
+interspersed with stumps and logs is both fatiguing and dangerous. Our
+horse seemed <a name="Page_92"></a>so well aware of this danger, that whenever the night set
+in, he could not be induced to move, unless one of us walked a little in
+advance before him, when he would rest his nose on our arm and then
+proceed. We crossed the Potoka to Princeton, a neat town, surrounded by a
+fast settling country, and so on to Harmony.</p>
+
+<p>New Harmony is seated on the banks of the Wabash; and following the
+sinuosities of that river, it is distant sixty-four or five miles from the
+Ohio, but over land, not more than seventeen. This settlement was
+purchased by Messrs. Mac Clure and Owen from Mr. Rapp, in the year 1823.
+The Rappites had been in possession of the place for six years, during
+which they had erected several large brick buildings of a public nature,
+and sundry smaller ones as residences, and had cultivated a considerable
+quantity of land in the immediate vicinity of the town. Mr. Owen intended
+to have established here a community of union and mutual co-operation;
+but, <a name="Page_93"></a>from a too great confidence in the power of the system which he
+advocates, to <i>reform</i> character, he has been necessitated to abandon that
+design at present.</p>
+
+<p>Harmony must have been certainly a desirable residence when it was the
+abode of the many literary and scientific characters who composed a part
+of that short-lived community. A few of these still linger here, and may
+be seen stalking through the streets of Harmony, like Marius among the
+ruins of Carthage, deploring the moral desolation that now reigns in this
+once happy place.</p>
+
+<p>Le Seur, the naturalist, and fellow traveller of Peron, in his voyage to
+the Austral regions, is still here. The suavity of manners, and the
+scientific acquirements of this gentleman, command the friendship and
+esteem of all those who have the pleasure of his acquaintance. He has a
+large collection of specimens connected with natural history, which the
+western parts of this country yield in abundance. The advantages presented
+<a name="Page_94"></a>here for the indulgence of retired habits, form at present the only
+attractions sufficient to induce him to live out of <i>la belle France</i>.</p>
+
+<p>Mr. Thomas Say, of Philadelphia, who accompanied Major Long on his
+expedition to the Rocky Mountains, also resides here. He too is a recluse,
+and is now preparing a work on his favourite subject, natural history. His
+garden contains a tolerable collection of Mexican and other exotic plants.</p>
+
+<p>Harmony is built on the second bottom of the Wabash, and is perhaps half a
+mile from the river at low water, the first bottom being about that
+breadth. Mosquitos abound here, and are extremely troublesome. There are
+several orchards in the neighbourhood well stocked with apples, peaches,
+&amp;c.; and the soil being rich alluvion, the farms are productive&mdash;so much
+as fifty dollars per acre is asked for cleared land, close to the town.
+There is a great scarcity of money here, as in most parts of Indiana, and
+trade is chiefly carried on by barter. Pork, lard, corn, bacon, <a name="Page_95"></a>beans,
+&amp;c., being given, by the farmers, to the store-keepers, in exchange for
+dry goods, cutlery, crockery-ware, &amp;c. The store-keepers either sell the
+produce they have thus collected to river-traders, or forward it to New
+Orleans on their own account.</p>
+
+<p>We made an excursion down the river in true Indian style. Our party,
+consisting of four, equipped in a suitable manner, the weather being then
+delightfully warm, having stowed on board a canoe plenty of provisions,
+paddled down the Wabash. The scenery on the banks of this river is
+picturesque. The foliage in some places springs from the water's edge,
+whilst at other points it recedes, leaving a bar of fine white sand. The
+breadth of the Wabash, at Harmony, is about 200 yards, and it divides
+frequently on its course to the Ohio, forming islands of various degrees
+of beauty and magnitude. On one of these, about six miles from Harmony,
+called the &quot;Cut-off,&quot; we determined on encamping. Accordingly, we moored
+our <a name="Page_96"></a>canoe&mdash;pitched our tent&mdash;lighted our fire&mdash;bathed&mdash;and having
+acquired enormous appetites by exertion, commenced the very agreeable
+operation of demolishing our provisions. We roamed about that and an
+adjacent island, until evening, when we returned to regale. These islands
+are generally covered with &quot;cane brakes,&quot; and low brush wood, which
+renders it difficult to effect a passage across them. Cotton-wood, beech,
+maple, hickory, and white oak, are the trees in greatest abundance.
+Spice-wood, sassafras, and dittany, are also plenty. Of these a decoction
+is made, which some of the woods-people prefer to tea; but it is not in
+general repute. The paw-paw tree (<i>annona triloba</i>) produces a fruit
+somewhat resembling in taste and shape the fig-banana, but certainly much
+inferior to that delicious fruit. We saw several deer in the woods, and
+some cranes upon the shore. With smoking, &amp;c., we passed the evening, and
+then retired&mdash;not to bed, for we had none&mdash;but to a right good
+<a name="Page_97"></a>substitute, a few dry leaves strewn upon the ground&mdash;our heads covered by
+the tent, and at our feet a large fire, which we kept up the whole night.
+Thus circumstanced, we found it by no means disagreeable.</p>
+
+<p>We spent greater part of next day much after the manner of the preceding,
+and concluded that it would be highly irrational to shoot game, having
+plenty of provisions; yet I suspect our being too lazy to hunt, influenced
+us not a little in that philosophical decision.</p>
+
+<p>Whilst at Harmony, I collected some information relative to the failure of
+the community, and I shall here give a slight sketch of the result of my
+inquiries. I must observe that so many, and such conflicting statements,
+respecting public measures, I believe never were before made by a body of
+persons dwelling within limits so confined as those of Harmony. Some of
+the <i>ci-devant</i> &quot;communicants&quot; call Robert Owen a fool, whilst others
+brand him with still more <a name="Page_98"></a>opprobrious epithets: and I never could get two
+of them to agree as to the primary causes of the failure of that
+community.</p>
+
+<p>The community was composed of a heterogeneous mass, collected together by
+public advertisement, which may be divided into three classes. The first
+class was composed of a number of well-educated persons, who occupied
+their time in eating and drinking&mdash;dressing and promenading&mdash;attending
+balls, and <i>improving the habits</i> of society; and they may be termed the
+<i>aristocracy</i> of this Utopian republic. The second class was composed of
+practical co-operators, who were well inclined to work, but who had no
+share, or voice, in the management of affairs. The third and last class
+was a body of theoretical philosophers&mdash;Stoics, Platonics, Pythagoreans,
+Epicureans, Peripatetics, and Cynics, who amused themselves in <i>striking
+out plans</i>&mdash;exposing the errors of those in operation&mdash;caricaturing&mdash;and
+turning the whole proceedings into ridicule.</p><a name="Page_99"></a>
+
+<p>The second class, disliking the species of co-operation afforded them by
+the first class, naturally became dissatisfied with their inactivity&mdash;and
+the third class laughed at them both. Matters were in this state for some
+time, until Mr. Owen found the funds were completely exhausted. He then
+stated that the community should divide; and that he would furnish land,
+and all necessary materials, for operations, to such of them as wished to
+form a community apart from the original establishment. This intimation
+was enough. The first class, with few exceptions, retired, followed by
+part of both the others, and all exclaiming against Mr. Owen's conduct. A
+person named Taylor, who had entered into a distillery speculation with
+one of Mr. Owen's sons, seized this opportunity to get the control of part
+of the property. Mr. Owen became embarrassed. Harmony was on the point of
+being sold by the sheriff&mdash;discord prevailed, and co-operation ceased.</p><a name="Page_100"></a>
+
+<p>Of the many private and public charges brought against Mr. Owen, I shall
+only notice one. It is said that he invited people to throw up their
+establishments in other parts of America, and come to Harmony, conscious
+at the same time that the community could not succeed, and, indeed, not
+caring much about its success, having ultimately in view the increase of
+the value of his purchase, by collecting a number of persons together, and
+thus making a town&mdash;a common speculation in America. Whether these were
+his intentions or not, it is impossible for any man to assert or deny; but
+the fact is no less true, that such has been the result, and that the
+purchase has been increased in value by the failure of the community, so
+that <i>ultimately</i> he is not likely to lose anything by the experiment. As
+to Mr. Owen's statements in public, &quot;that he had been informed that the
+people of America were capable of governing themselves, and that he tried
+the experiment, and found they <a name="Page_101"></a>were not so,&quot;&mdash;and that &quot;the place having
+been purchased, it was necessary to get persons to occupy it.&quot; These
+constitute but an imperfect excuse for having induced the separation of
+families, caused many thriving establishments to be broken up, and even
+the ruin of some few individuals, who, although their capital was but
+small, yet having thrown it all into the common stock, when the community
+failed, found themselves in a state of complete destitution. These
+persons, then, forgetting the &quot;doctrine of circumstances,&quot; and everything
+but the result, and the promises of Mr. Owen, censured him in no measured
+language, and cannot be convinced of the purity of his intentions in
+<i>that</i> affair. Indeed, they have always at hand such a multiplicity of
+facts to prove that Mr. Owen himself mainly contributed to the failure,
+that one must be blinded by that partiality which so known a
+philanthropist necessarily inspires, not to be convinced that, however
+competent he may be to <a name="Page_102"></a>preach the doctrines of co-operation, he is
+totally incompetent to carry them into effect.</p>
+
+<p>But Mr. Owen has also declared in public that &quot;the New Harmony experiment
+succeeded beyond his most sanguine expectations.&quot; Now what may be his
+peculiar notions of success, the public are totally ignorant, as he did
+not think fit to furnish any explanation; but this the public do know,
+that between the former and the latter statement there is a slight
+discrepancy.</p>
+
+<p>Some of Mr. Owen's friends <i>in London</i> say, that every thing went on well
+at Harmony until he gave up the management&mdash;that is, that he governed the
+community for the first few weeks, the short period of its prosperity, and
+that it declined only from the time of his ceding the dictatorship. Now
+Mr. Owen <i>himself</i> says, that he only interfered when he observed they
+were going wrong; implying that he did not interfere in the commencement,
+but did so subsequently. These are contradictions which would require a
+good <a name="Page_103"></a>deal of mystification to reconcile in appearance. All the
+communicants whom I met in America, although they differed on almost every
+other point, yet agreed on this,&mdash;that Mr. Owen interfered from first to
+last during his stay at Harmony, and that at the time when he first
+quitted it nothing but discord prevailed.</p>
+
+<p>Very little experience of a residence in the backwoods convinced Mr. Owen
+that he was not in the situation most consonant with his feelings. He had
+been, when in Europe, surrounded by people who regarded him as an oracle,
+and received his <i>ipse dixit</i> as a sufficient solution for every
+difficulty. His situation at Harmony was very different; for most of the
+persons who came there had been accustomed to exercise their judgment in
+matters of practice, and this Mr. Owen is said not to have been able to
+endure. He would either evade, or refuse, answering direct questions,
+which naturally made men so accustomed to independence as the Ame<a name="Page_104"></a>ricans
+are, indignant. The usual answer he gave to any presuming disciple who
+ventured to request an explanation, was, that &quot;his young friend&quot; was in a
+total state of ignorance, and that he should therefore attend the lectures
+more constantly for the future. There is this peculiarity respecting the
+philosophy propounded by Mr. Owen, which is, that after a pupil has been
+attending his lectures for eighteen months, he (Mr. Owen) declares that
+the said pupil knows nothing at all about his system. This certainly
+argues a defect either in matter or manner.</p>
+
+<p>His followers appear not to be aware of the fact, that Mr. Owen has not
+originated a single new idea in his whole book, but has simply put forward
+the notions of Rousseau, Voltaire, Condorcet, Plato, Sir Thomas More, &amp;c.,
+in other language. His merit consists in this, and no small merit it is,
+that he has collated the ideas of these philosophers&mdash;arranged them in a
+tangible shape, and has devoted time and money to assist their
+dissemination.</p><a name="Page_105"></a>
+
+<p>I find on one of his cards, printed for distribution, the following
+axioms, in the shape of queries, set forth as being <i>his</i> doctrine,&mdash;not
+the doctrine which <i>he advocates</i>.</p>
+
+<p>&quot;Does it depend upon man to be born of such and such parents?</p>
+
+<p>&quot;Can he choose to take, or not to take, the opinions of his parents and
+instructors?</p>
+
+<p>&quot;If born of Pagan or Mahometan parents, was it in his power to become a
+Christian?&quot;</p>
+
+<p>These positions are laid down by Rousseau, in many passages of his works;
+but as one quotation will be sufficient to establish my assertion, I shall
+not trouble myself to look for others. He says, in his &quot;Lettre &agrave; M. de
+Beaumont,&quot; p. 124, &quot;A l'egard des objections sur les sectes particuli&eacute;res
+dans lesquelles l'universe est divis&eacute;, que ne puis-je leur donnez assez de
+force pour rendre chacun moins ent&eacute;t&eacute; de la sienne et moins ennemi des
+autres; pour porter chacque homme a l'indulgence, a la douceur, par cette
+consideration si frappante et si naturelle; que s'il fut <a name="Page_106"></a>n&eacute; dans un autre
+pays, dans une autre secte il prendrait infailliblement pour l'erreur ce
+qu'il prends pour la verit&eacute;, et pour la verit&eacute;, ce qu'il prends pour
+l'erreur.&quot;</p>
+
+<p>None but a man whose mind had been warped by the too constant
+contemplation of one particular subject, as Mr. Owen's mind has been
+warped by the eternal consideration of the Utopian republic, could suppose
+the practicability of carrying those plans into full effect during the
+existence of the present generation. He himself, whilst preaching to his
+handful of disciples the doctrine of perfect equality, is acting on quite
+different principles; and he has his new lecture-room divided into
+compartments separating the classes in society&mdash;thus proving that even his
+few followers are unprepared for such a change as he wishes to introduce
+into society, and that he finds the necessity of temporising even with
+<i>them</i>.</p>
+
+<p>Another proof of the variance there is between the theory and the practice
+of Mr.<a name="Page_107"></a> Owen, may be found in the constitution of his new community. The
+first article says, that, &quot;An annual subscription paid, of not less than
+one pound, constitutes <i>a member</i>, who is entitled to attend and <i>vote</i> at
+all public meetings of the association.&quot; These may be termed the
+twenty-shilling freeholders of the community.<a name="FNanchor_4_4"></a><a href="#Footnote_4_4"><sup>[4]</sup></a> Then follow the other
+grades and conditions. A donation of one hundred pounds, constitutes <i>a
+visitor</i> for life: a donation of five hundred pounds, <i>a vice-president</i>
+for life: and a donation of one thousand pounds, <i>a president</i>, who, &quot;in
+addition to the last-mentioned privileges,&quot; will enjoy many others of a
+valuable nature.</p>
+
+<p>King James sold two hundred baronetcies <a name="Page_108"></a>of the United Kingdom, for one
+thousand pounds each; and Mr. Owen offers an unlimited number of
+presidentships in his incipient Utopia on the same advantageous terms. I
+by no means dispute that the distinction Mr. Owen will confer on his
+purchasers may be quite as valuable, in his eyes and those of his
+disciples, as that conferred by King James; yet I cannot help suspecting,
+despite of the insatiable yearning the aristocracy have after
+vain-glorious titles, that few of them will come forward as candidates for
+his Utopian honours.</p>
+
+<p>FOOTNOTES:</p>
+
+<a name="Footnote_4_4"></a><a href="#FNanchor_4_4">[4]</a><div class="note"><p> Since writing the above, I find that the constitution has
+already undergone an essential change; but Mr. Owen appears to entertain
+views of reformation very different indeed from our present Whig
+administration, for he has actually placed both <i>members</i> and <i>visitors</i>
+in schedule (A) of <i>his</i> reform bill, and at one fell swoop has deprived
+this most deserving class of all political existence. None but
+vice-presidents and presidents have now the power of voting.</p></div>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;">
+<a name="CHAPTER_V"></a><h2><a name="Page_109"></a>CHAPTER V</h2>
+<br>
+
+<p>Having remained about a fortnight at Harmony, we made the necessary
+arrangements, and, accompanied by B&mdash;&mdash;, set out for St. Louis, in
+Missouri. We crossed the Wabash into Illinois, and proceeded to Albion,
+the settlement made by the late Mr. Birkbeck.</p>
+
+<p>Albion is at present a small insignificant town surrounded by prairies, on
+which there are several handsome farms. Messrs. Birkbeck and Flowers
+purchased large tracts of land in this neighbourhood, for the purpose of
+re-selling or letting it to English or other emigrants. These two
+gentlemen were of the class called in England, &quot;gentlemen <a name="Page_110"></a>farmers,&quot; and
+brought with them from that country very large capitals; a considerable
+portion of which, in addition to the money laid out on purchase, they
+expended on improvements. They are both now dead&mdash;their property has
+entirely passed into other hands, and the members of their families who
+still remain in this country are in comparative indigence.</p>
+
+<p>The most inveterate hostility was manifested by the backwoods people
+towards those settlers, and the series of outrages and annoyances to which
+they were exposed, contributed not a little to shorten their days. It at
+length became notorious that neither Birkbeck nor Flowers could obtain
+redress for any grievance whatever, unless by appealing to the superior
+courts,&mdash;as both the magistrates and jurors were exclusively of the class
+of the offenders; and the &quot;Supreme Court of the United States&quot; declared,
+that the verdicts of the juries, and the decisions of the magistrates
+were, in many <a name="Page_111"></a>cases, so much at variance with the evidences, that they
+were disgraceful to the country. A son of the latter gentleman, a lad
+about fourteen years old, was killed in open day whilst walking in his
+father's garden, by a blow of an axe handle, which was flung at him across
+the fence. The evidence was clear against the murderer, and yet he was
+acquitted. Whilst I was at Vandalia, I saw in a list of lands for sale,
+amongst other lots to be sold for taxes, one of Mr. Flowers'. The fate of
+these gentlemen and their families should be a sufficient warning to
+persons of their class in England, not to attempt settling <i>in the
+backwoods</i>; or if they have that idea, to leave aside altogether refined
+notions, and never to bring with them either the feelings or the habits of
+a <i>gentleman farmer</i>. The whole secret and cause of this <i>guerre &agrave; mort</i>,
+declared by the backwoodsmen against Messrs. Birkbeck and Flowers, was,
+that when they first settled upon the prairies, they attempted to act the
+<i>patron</i> and the <i>benefactor</i>, and con<a name="Page_112"></a>sidered themselves <i>entitled</i> to
+some respect. Now a west-country American would rather die like a cock on
+a dunghill, than be patronized after the English fashion; he is not
+accustomed to receive benefactions, and cannot conceive that any man would
+voluntarily confer favours on him, without expecting something in return,
+either in the shape of labour, or goods;&mdash;and as to respect, that has
+totally disappeared from his code since &quot;the Declaration.&quot;</p>
+
+<p>Mr. Birkbeck was called &quot;Emperor of the Prairies;&quot; and notwithstanding the
+hostility of his neighbours, he seems to have been much respected in the
+other parts of Illinois, as he was chosen secretary of state; and in that
+character he died, in 1825. He at last devoted himself entirely to gaining
+political influence, seeing that it was the duty of every man in a free
+country to be a politician, and that he who &quot;takes no interest in
+political affairs,&quot; must be a bad man, or must want capacity to act in the
+common occurrences of life.</p><a name="Page_113"></a>
+
+<p>From Albion we proceeded towards the Little Wabash; but had not got many
+miles from that town, when an accident occurred which delayed us some
+time. We were driving along through a wood of scrub-oak, or barren, when
+our carriage, coming in contact with a stump that lay concealed beneath
+high grass, was pitched into a rut&mdash;it was upset&mdash;and before we could
+recover ourselves, away went the horse dashing through the wood, leaving
+the hind wheels and body of the vehicle behind. He took the path we had
+passed over, and fortunately halted at the next corn-field. We repaired
+the damage in a temporary manner, and again set forward.</p>
+
+<p>After having crossed the Little Wabash, we had to pass through three miles
+of swamp frequently above our ancles in the mire, for the horse could
+scarcely drag the empty waggon. We at length came out on &quot;Hardgrove's
+prairie.&quot; The prospect which here presented itself was extremely
+gratifying to <a name="Page_114"></a>our eyes. Since I had left the little prairie in the
+Wyandot reserve, I had been buried in eternal forests; and,
+notwithstanding all the efforts one may make to rally one's spirits, still
+the heart of a European sickens at the sameness of the scene, and he
+cannot get rid of the idea of imprisonment, where the visible horizon is
+never more distant than five or six hundred yards. Yet this is the delight
+of an Indian or a backwoodsman, and the gloomy ferocity that characterizes
+these people is evidently engendered by the surrounding scenery, and may
+be considered as indigenous to the forest. Hardgrove's is perhaps the
+handsomest prairie in Illinois&mdash;before us lay a rich green undulating
+meadow, and on either side, clusters of trees, interspersed through this
+vast plain in beautiful irregularity&mdash;the waving of the high grass, and
+the distant groves rearing their heads just above the horizontal line,
+like the first glimpse of land to the weary navigator, formed a
+combination of ideas peculiar to the scene which lay before us.</p><a name="Page_115"></a>
+
+<p>With the exception of one or two miles of wood, occasionally, the whole of
+our journey through Illinois lay over prairie ground, and the roads were
+so level, that without any extraordinary exertion on the part of our
+horse, he carried us from thirty to forty miles a day.</p>
+
+<p>We next crossed the &quot;grand prairie,&quot; passing over the Indian trace.
+Although this is by no means so picturesque as Hardgrove's, yet the
+boundless prospect that is presented on first entering this prairie is far
+the more sublime&mdash;the ideas expand, and the imagination is carried far
+beyond the limits of the eye. We saw some deer scouring the plains, and
+several &quot;prairie wolves&quot; skulking in the high grass&mdash;this animal is
+sometimes destructive to sheep. The size is about that of our fox. Most
+farmers keep three or four hounds, which are trained to combat the wolf.
+The training is thus&mdash;a dead wolf is first shewn to a young dog, when he
+is set on to tear it; the next process is to muzzle a <a name="Page_116"></a>live wolf, and tie
+him to a stake, when the dog of course kills him; the last is, setting the
+dog on an unmuzzled wolf, which has been tied to a stake, with his legs
+shackled. The dog being thus accustomed to be always the victor, never
+fails to attack and kill the prairie wolf whenever he meets him.</p>
+
+<p>Within thirteen miles of Carlisle, we stopped at an inn, a solitary
+establishment, the nearest habitation being more than six miles distant.
+The landlord, Mr. Elliot, told us that he was unable to accommodate us
+with beds, as his house was already quite full; but that if we could
+dispense with beds, he would provide us with every thing else. Having no
+alternative, we of course acceded to his proposal. There was then holding
+at his house what is termed an &quot;inn fair,&quot; or the day after the wedding.
+The marriage takes place at the house of the bride's father, and the day
+following a party is given by the bridegroom, when he takes home his wife.
+The people here assembled had an extremely <a name="Page_117"></a>healthy appearance, and some
+of the girls were decidedly handsome, having, with fine florid
+complexions, regular features and good teeth. The landlord and his sons
+were very civil, as indeed were all the company there assembled.</p>
+
+<p>A great many respectable English yeomen have at different periods settled
+in Illinois, which has contributed not a little to improve the state of
+society; for the inhabitants of these prairies, generally speaking, are
+much more agreeable than those of most other parts of the western country.</p>
+
+<p>When the night was tolerably far advanced, the decks were cleared, and
+three feather beds were placed <i>seriatem</i> on the floor, on which a general
+scramble took place for berths&mdash;we wrapped ourselves in our cloaks, and
+lay seventeen in a bed until morning, when we arose, and went out to &quot;have
+a wash.&quot; The practice at all inns and boarding-houses throughout the
+western country, excepting at those in the more con<a name="Page_118"></a>siderable towns, is to
+perform ablutions gregariously, under one of the porches, either before or
+behind the house&mdash;thus attendance is avoided, and the interior is kept
+free from all manner of pollutions.</p>
+
+<p>An abundance of good stone-coal is found all through this state, of which
+I saw several specimens. Were it not for this circumstance, the difficulty
+of procuring wood for fuel and fencing, would more than counterbalance the
+advantages, in other respects, presented to settlers on the prairies.</p>
+
+<p>The average crops of Indian corn are about fifty bushels per acre, which
+when planted, they seldom plough or hoe more than once. In the bottom
+lands of Indiana and Ohio, from seventy to eighty bushels per acre is
+commonly produced, but with twice the quantity of labour and attention,
+independent of the trouble of clearing. There are two denominations of
+prairie: the upland, and the river or bottom prairie; the latter is more
+fertile than the former, having <a name="Page_119"></a>a greater body of alluvion, yet there are
+many of the upland prairies extremely rich, particularly those in the
+neighbourhood of the Wabash. The depth of the vegetable soil on some of
+those plains, has been found frequently to be from eighteen to twenty
+feet, but the ordinary depth is more commonly under five. The upland
+prairies are much more extensive than the river prairies, and are
+invariably free from intermittent fever&mdash;an exemption, which to emigrants
+must be of the utmost importance.</p>
+
+<p>Previous to our leaving Elliott's inn, we witnessed a chase of two wolves,
+which had the boldness to come to the sheep-pens close to the house.
+Unfortunately the dogs were not at hand, and the wolves escaped among the
+high grass. Mr. Elliott positively refused accepting of any compensation
+in lieu of our supper and lodging: he said he considered our lodging a
+thing not to be spoken of; and as to our supper&mdash;which by-the-by was a
+capital one&mdash;he had invited us to that.<a name="Page_120"></a> We merely paid for the horse,
+thanked him for his hospitality, and departed. During our journey through
+Indiana we had invariably to use persuasion, in order to induce the
+farmers to take money for either milk or fruit; and whenever we stayed at
+a farm-house, we never paid more than what appeared to be barely
+sufficient to cover the actual cost of what we consumed.</p>
+
+<p>At Carlisle, a village containing about a dozen houses, we got our vehicle
+repaired. We required a new shaft: the smith walked deliberately out&mdash;cast
+his eye on a rail of the fence close by, and in half an hour he had
+finished a capital shaft of white oak.</p>
+
+<p>The next town we came to was Lebanon, and we determined on staying there
+that evening, in order to witness a revival. They have no regular places
+of worship on the prairies, and the inhabitants are therefore subject to
+the incursions of itinerant preachers, who migrate annually, in swarms,
+from the more thickly settled districts. There ap<a name="Page_121"></a>peared to be a great
+lack of zeal among the denizens of Lebanon, as notwithstanding the
+energetic exhortations of the preachers, and their fulminating
+denunciations against backsliders, they failed in exciting much
+enthusiasm. The meeting ended, as is customary on such occasions, by a
+collection for the preachers, who set out on horseback, next morning, to
+levy contributions on another body of the natives.</p>
+
+<p>From Lebanon we proceeded across a chain of hills, and came in on a
+beautiful plain, called the &quot;American bottom.&quot; Some of those hills were
+clear to the summit, while others were crowned with rich foliage. Before
+us, to the extreme right, were six or seven tumuli, or &quot;Indian mounds;&quot;
+and to the left, and immediately in front, lay a handsome wood. From the
+hills to the river is about six miles; and this space appears evidently to
+have been a lake at some former period, previous to the Mississippi's
+flowing through its present deep channel. Several stagnant ponds lay by
+our road; sufficient <a name="Page_122"></a>indications of the presence of disease, which this
+place has the character of producing in abundance. The beauty of the spot,
+and the fertility of the soil, have, notwithstanding, induced several
+English families to settle here. Their houses are built of brick, and
+their gardens and farms are laid out and fenced tastefully.</p>
+
+<p>After traversing the wood, we at length came in sight of the Mississippi,
+which is here about three quarters of a mile broad. There is a steam
+ferry-boat stationed at this point, (opposite St. Louis), the construction
+of which is rather singular. It is built nearly square, having in the
+middle a house containing two spacious apartments, and on each side decks,
+on which stand horses, oxen, waggons and carriages of every description.</p>
+
+<p>St. Louis is built on a bluff bank. The <i>principal</i> streets rise one above
+the other, running parallel with the river; the houses are mostly built of
+stone, the bank being entirely composed of that material, the walls
+whitewashed, and the roofs covered with tin:<a name="Page_123"></a> from the opposite side it
+presents a very gay appearance. The ascent from the water's edge to the
+back of the town is considerable, but regular. The streets intersect each
+other at right angles, as do those of most American towns. They are much
+too narrow, having been laid down and built on from a plan designed by the
+Spanish commandant, previous to the Missouri territory becoming part of
+the United States. The population is estimated at six thousand, composed
+of Creole-French, Irish, and Americans.</p>
+
+<p>St. Louis must, at some future period, become decidedly the most important
+town in the western country, from its local and relative situation. It is
+seated on the most favourable point below the mouths of two noble rivers,
+the Missouri and the Illinois,<a name="FNanchor_5_5"></a><a href="#Footnote_5_5"><sup>[5]</sup></a> having at its back an immense tract of
+fertile country, and open and easy communi<a name="Page_124"></a>cation with the finest parts of
+the western and north-western territories. These advantages, added to the
+constant and uninterrupted intercourse which it enjoys with the southern
+ports, must ultimately make St. Louis a town of wealth and magnitude.</p>
+
+<p>We visited General Clarke's museum, which chiefly contains Indian costumes
+and implements of war, with some minerals and fossils, a portion of which
+he collected while on the expedition to the Rocky mountains with Lewis;
+and also, two sods of good black turf, from the bogs of Allen, in Ireland.
+A sight which was quite exhilarating, and reminded me so strongly of the
+fine odour which exhales from the products of illicit distillation, that
+guagers and potteen, like the phantoms of hallucination, were presenting
+themselves continually to my imagination for the remainder of that day.</p>
+
+<p>General Clarke is a tall, robust, grey-headed old man, with beetle-brows,
+and uncouthly aspect: his countenance is ex<a name="Page_125"></a>pressive of anything but
+intelligence; and his celebrity is said to have been gained principally by
+his having been the <i>companion</i> of Lewis to the Rocky mountains.</p>
+
+<p>The country around St. Louis is principally prairie, and the soil
+luxuriant. There are many excellent farms, and some fine herds of cattle,
+in the neighbourhood: yet the supply of produce seems to be insufficient,
+as considerable quantities are imported annually from Louisville and
+Cincinnati. The principal lots of ground in and near the town are at the
+disposal of some five or six individuals, who, having thus created a
+monopoly, keep up the price. This, added to the little inducement held out
+to farming people in a slave state, where no man can work himself without
+losing <i>caste</i>, has mainly contributed to retard the increase of
+population and prosperity in the neighbourhood of St. Louis.</p>
+
+<p>There are two fur companies established here. The expeditions depart early
+in <a name="Page_126"></a>spring, and generally return late in autumn. This trade is very
+profitable. A person who is at present at the head of one of those
+companies, was five years ago a bankrupt, and is now considered wealthy.
+He bears the character of being a regular Yankee; and if the never giving
+a direct answer to a plain question constitutes a Yankee, he is one most
+decidedly. We had some intention of crossing to Santa F&eacute;, in New Mexico,
+and we accordingly waited on him for the purpose of making some inquiries
+relative to the departure of the caravans; but to any of the plain
+questions we asked, we could not get a satisfactory answer,&mdash;at length,
+becoming tired of hedge-fighting, we departed, with quite as much
+information as we had before the interview.</p>
+
+<p>A trapping expedition is being fitted out for the Rocky mountains, on an
+extensive scale. The number of persons intended to be employed on this, is
+about two hundred. Teams for the transportation of merchandize <a name="Page_127"></a>and
+luggage are preparing, which is an accommodation never enjoyed before by
+trappers, as pack-horses have always hitherto been substituted. These
+waggons may also be found useful as <i>barricades</i>, in case of an attack
+from the Indians. The expedition will be absent two or three years.</p>
+
+<p>A trade with Santa F&eacute; is also established. In the Spanish country the
+traders receive, in exchange for dry goods and merchandize of every
+description, specie, principally; which makes money much more plentiful
+here than in any other town in the western country.</p>
+
+<p>The caravans generally strike away, near the head waters of the Arkansas
+and Red rivers, to the south-west, close to the foot of the Rocky
+mountains&mdash;travelling above a thousand miles through the Indian country
+before they reach the Mexican boundary. These journeys are long and
+tedious, and require men of nerve and muscle to undertake them; the
+morasses and rivers which <a name="Page_128"></a>they have to cross&mdash;the extensive prairies and
+savannahs they have to traverse, and the dense forests to penetrate, are
+sufficient to subdue any but iron constitutions.</p>
+
+<p>The countries west of the Mississippi are likely to be greatly enriched by
+the trade with Mexico; as, in addition to the vast quantities of valuable
+merchandize procured from that country, specie to a very large amount is
+put in circulation, which to a new country is of incalculable advantage.
+The party which lately returned to Fayette in Missouri, brought 200,000
+dollars in specie.</p>
+
+<p>The lead-mines of Galena and Potosi inundate St. Louis with that metal.
+The latter mines are extensive, consisting of forty in number, and are
+situated near the head of Big-river, which flows into the Merrimac: a
+water transportation is thus effected to the Mississippi, eighteen miles
+below St. Louis. This, however, is only in the spring and fall, as at
+other seasons the Merrimac is not navigable for common-sized boats, at a
+greater <a name="Page_129"></a>distance than fifty miles from its mouth. The Merrimac is upwards
+of 200 miles in length, and at its outlet it is about 200 yards in
+breadth.</p>
+
+<p>The principal buildings in St. Louis are, the government-house, the
+theatre, the bank of the United States, and three or four Catholic and
+Protestant churches. The Catholic is the prevalent religion. There are two
+newspapers published here. Caf&eacute;s, billiard tables, dancing houses, &amp;c.,
+are in abundance.</p>
+
+<p>The inhabitants of St. Louis more resemble Europeans in their manners and
+habits than any other people I met with in the west. The more wealthy
+people generally spend some time in New Orleans every year, which makes
+them much more sociable, and much less <i>brusque</i> than their neighbours.</p>
+
+<p>We visited Florissant, a French village, containing a convent and a young
+ladies' seminary. The country about this place pleased us much. We passed
+many fine <a name="Page_130"></a>farms&mdash;through open woodlands, which have much the appearance
+of domains&mdash;and across large tracts of sumach, the leaves of which at this
+season are no longer green, but have assumed a rich crimson hue. The
+Indians use these leaves as provision for the pipe.</p>
+
+<p>We stayed for eight days at a small village on the banks of the
+Mississippi, about six miles below St. Louis, and four above Jefferson
+barracks, called Carondalet, or, <i>en badinage, &quot;vide poche.&quot;</i> The
+inhabitants are nearly all Creole-French, and speak a miserable <i>patois</i>.
+The same love of pleasure which, with bravery, characterizes the French
+people in Europe, also distinguishes their descendants in Carondalet.
+Every Saturday night <i>les garcons et les filles</i> meet to dance quadrilles.
+The girls dance well, and on these occasions they dress tastefully. These
+villagers live well, dress well, and dance well, but have
+miserable-looking habitations; the house of a Frenchman being always a
+secondary consideration. At one of those <a name="Page_131"></a>balls I observed a very pretty
+girl surrounded by gay young Frenchmen, with whom she was flirting in a
+style that would not have disgraced a belle from the <i>Faubourg St. Denis</i>,
+and turning to my neighbour, I asked him who she was; he replied, &quot;Elle
+s'appelle Louise Constant, monsieur,&mdash;c'est la rose de village.&quot; Could a
+peasant of any other nation have expressed himself so prettily, or have
+been gallant with such a grace?</p>
+
+<p>Accompanied by our landlord, we visited Jefferson barracks. The officer to
+whom we had an introduction not being <i>chez-lui</i> at that time, we were
+introduced to some other officers by our host, who united in his single
+person the triple capacity of squire, or magistrate, newspaper proprietor,
+and tavern-keeper. The officers, as may be expected, are men from every
+quarter of the Union, whose manners necessarily vary and partake of the
+character of their several states.</p>
+
+<p>The barracks stand on the bluffs of the Mississippi, and, with the river's
+bank, they <a name="Page_132"></a>form a parallelogram&mdash;the buildings are on three sides, and
+the fourth opens to the river; the descent from the extremity of the area
+to the water's edge is planted with trees, and the whole has a picturesque
+effect. These buildings have been almost entirely erected by the soldiers,
+who are compelled to work from morning till night at every kind of
+laborious employment. This arrangement has saved the state much money; yet
+the propriety of employing soldiers altogether in this manner is very
+questionable. Desertions are frequent, and the punishment hitherto
+inflicted for that crime has been flogging; but Jackson declares now that
+shooting must be resorted to. The soldiers are obliged to be servilely
+respectful to the officers, <i>pulling off</i> the undress cap at their
+approach. This species of discipline may be pronounced inconsistent with
+the institutions of the country, yet when we come to consider the
+materials of which an <i>American</i> regular regiment is composed, we shall
+find the difficulty of <a name="Page_133"></a>producing order and regularity in such a body much
+greater than at first view might be apprehended. In this country any man
+who wishes to work may employ himself profitably, consequently all those
+who sell their liberty by enlisting must be the very dregs of society&mdash;men
+without either character or industry&mdash;drunkards, thieves, and culprits who
+by flight have escaped the penitentiary, and enlisted under the impression
+that the life of a soldier was one of idleness; in which they have been
+most grievously mistaken. When we take these facts into consideration, the
+difficulty of managing a set of such fellows will appear more than a
+little. Yet unquestionably there are individuals among the officers whose
+bearing is calculated to inspire any thing but that respect which they so
+scrupulously exact, and without which they declare it would be impossible
+to command. The drillings take place on Sundays.</p>
+
+<p>Near Carondalet we visited two slave-holders, who employed slaves in
+agriculture; <a name="Page_134"></a>which practice experience has shewn in every instance to be
+unprofitable. One had thirteen; and yet every thing about his house rather
+indicated poverty than affluence. These slaves lived in a hut, among the
+outhouses, about twelve feet square&mdash;men, women, and children; and in
+every respect were fully as miserable and degraded in condition as the
+unfortunate wretches who reside in the lanes and alleys of St. Giles' and
+Spitalfields, with this exception, that <i>they</i> were well fed. The other
+slave-holder, brother of the former, lived much in the same manner;&mdash;but
+it is necessary to observe that both these persons were hunters, and that
+hunters have nothing good in their houses but dogs and venison.</p>
+
+<p>T&mdash;&mdash; having gone on a hunting excursion with our host, and some of his
+friends, B&mdash;&mdash; and I drove the ladies to the plantation of the latter
+gentleman. He had a farm on the bluffs, which was broken and irregular, as
+is always the case in those situations. Large <a name="Page_135"></a>holes, called &quot;sink-holes,&quot;
+are numerous along these banks; the shape of them is precisely that of an
+inverted cone, through the apex of which the water sinks, and works its
+way into the river. Cedar trees grow on the rocks, and the scenery is in
+many places extremely grand. Wild-geese congregate in multitudes on the
+islands in the Mississippi, and at night send forth the most wild and
+piercing cries.</p>
+
+<p>Our hostess was one of those sylvan Amazons who could handle any thing,
+from the hunting-knife to the ponderous axe; and she dressed in the true
+sylph-like costume of the backwoods. Her <i>robe</i>, which appeared to be the
+only garment with which she encumbered herself, fitted her, as they say at
+sea, &quot;like a purser's shirt on a handspike,&quot; and looked for all the world
+like an inverted sack, with appropriate apertures cut for head and arms;
+she wore shoes, in compliment to her guests&mdash;her hair hung about her
+shoulders in true Indian style; and altogether she was <a name="Page_136"></a>a genuine sample
+of backwoods' civilization. We were placed in a good bed&mdash;the state-bed of
+course&mdash;and as we lay, paid our devotions to Urania, and contemplated the
+beauties of the starry firmament, through an aperture in the roof which
+would have admitted a jackass.</p>
+
+<p>The proprietor assured us that his slaves produced him no more than the
+bare interest of the money invested in their purchase, and that he was a
+slave-holder not from choice, but because it was the prevailing practice
+of the country. He said he had two handsome Mulatto girls hired out at the
+barracks for six dollars per month each.</p>
+
+<p>In St. Louis there were seven Indian chiefs, hostages from the Ioway
+nation. Their features were handsome&mdash;with one exception, they had all
+aquiline noses&mdash;they were tall and finely proportioned, and altogether as
+fine-looking fellows as I ever saw. The colour of these Indians was much
+redder than that of any others I had seen; their <a name="Page_137"></a>heads were shaven, with
+the exception of a small stripe, extending from the centre of the
+crown back to the <i>organ of philoprogenitiveness</i>&mdash;the gallant
+scalping-lock&mdash;which was decorated with feathers so as somewhat to
+resemble the crest of a Greek or Roman helmet. Their bodies were uncovered
+from the waist upwards, except when they wore blankets, a modern
+substitute for the buffalo-robe, which they commonly wore over the left
+shoulder, leaving the right arm and breast bare. The Ioways are a nation
+dwelling in the Missouri territory, and these hostages delivered
+themselves up pending the investigation of an affray that had taken place
+between their people and the backwoodsmen.</p>
+
+<p>The day previous to our departure from St. Louis, the investigation took
+place in the Museum, which is also the office of Indian affairs. There
+were upwards of twenty Indians present, including the hostages. The charge
+made against these unfortunate people <a name="Page_138"></a>and on which they had been obliged
+to come six or seven hundred miles, to stand their trial before <i>white
+judges</i>, was, &quot;that the Ioways had come down on the white
+territory&mdash;killed the cattle, and attacked the settlers, by which attack
+four citizens lost their lives.&quot; The principal chief implicated in the
+affair, named &quot;Big-neck,&quot; was called upon for his defence. In the person
+of this man there was nothing remarkable. He advanced into the centre of
+the room, and disengaging his right arm from the blanket, shook hands with
+the judges, and then, in succession, with all the officers of the court.
+This ceremony being ended, he paused, and drawing himself up to his full
+height, extended his arm forward towards the judge, and inclining his head
+a little in the same direction, said, &quot;If I had done that of which my
+white brother accuses me, I would not stand here now. The words of my
+red-headed father (General Clarke) have passed through both my ears, and I
+have remem<a name="Page_139"></a>bered them. I am accused, and I am not guilty.&quot; (The
+interpreter translated each sentence as it was delivered, and gave it as
+nearly verbatim as possible&mdash;observe, the pronoun I is here used
+figuratively, for <i>his party, and for the tribe</i>). &quot;I thought I would come
+down to see my red-headed father, to hold a talk with him.&mdash;I come across
+the line (boundary)&mdash;I see the cattle of my white brother dead&mdash;I see the
+Sauk kill them in great numbers&mdash;I said that there would be trouble&mdash;I
+turn to go to my village&mdash;I find I have no provisions&mdash;I say, let us go
+down to our white brother, and trade our powder and shot for a little&mdash;I
+do so, and again turn upon my tracks, until I reach my village.&quot;&mdash;He here
+paused, and looking sternly down the room, to where two Sauks sat, pointed
+his finger at them and said, &quot;The Sauk, who always tells lie of me, goes
+to my white brother and says&mdash;the Ioway has killed your cattle. When the
+lie (the Sauk) had talked thus to my white brother, he comes, thirty, <a name="Page_140"></a>up
+to my village&mdash;we hear our brother is coming&mdash;we are glad, and leave our
+cabins to tell him he is welcome&mdash;but while I shake hands with my white
+brother,&quot; he said, pointing to his forehead, &quot;my white brother shoots me
+through the head&mdash;my best chief&mdash;three of my young men, a squaw and his<a name="FNanchor_6_6"></a><a href="#Footnote_6_6"><sup>[6]</sup></a>
+child. We come from our huts unarmed&mdash;even without our blankets&mdash;and yet,
+while I shake hands with my white brother, he shoots me down&mdash;my best
+chief. My young men within, hear me shot&mdash;they rush out&mdash;they fire on my
+white brother&mdash;he falls, four&mdash;my people fly to the woods without their
+rifles.&quot; He then stated that four more Indians died in the forest of cold
+and starvation, fearing to return to their villages, and being without
+either blankets or guns. At length returning, and finding that their
+&quot;great chiefs&quot; had delivered themselves up, he came to stand his trial.</p>
+<a name="Page_141"></a>
+<p>The next person called was an old chief, named &quot;Pumpkin,&quot; who corroborated
+the testimony of &quot;Big-Neck,&quot; but had not been with the party when the
+Sauks were seen killing the cattle. When he came to that part of the story
+where the Indian comes from his wig-wam to meet the white man, he said,
+nearly in the same words used by Big-neck, &quot;While I shake hands with my
+white brother, my white brother shoots me down&mdash;my best chief&quot;&mdash;he here
+paused, and lifting his eyes above the heads of the auditors, his lip
+curling a little, but resuming again, almost immediately, its natural
+position, he pronounced in a low but distinct guttural tone, the Indian
+word meaning &quot;<i>my</i> son.&quot; His eye seemed fixed for a few seconds, and then,
+as if conscious of his weakness, and that the eyes of the great warriors
+of his tribe were upon him, he looked slowly round in a kind of solemn
+triumph, and resumed his tale. There was a strong feeling excited in the
+court by the misfortune of this old <a name="Page_142"></a>man, for the &quot;best chief&quot; of the
+Ioways was his <i>only</i> son. The court asked the chiefs what they thought
+should be done in the matter? They spoke a few words to each other, and
+then answered promptly, that all they required was, that their white
+brother should be brought down also, and confronted with them. The
+prisoners were set at liberty on their parole.</p>
+
+<p>Nothing could have been more respectable than the silence and gravity of
+the Indians during the investigation. The hostages particularly, were
+really imposing in their appearance; an air of solemnity overspread their
+manly countenances, whilst their eyes bespoke that unquailing spirit which
+the habits and vicissitudes of a sylvan life are calculated rather to
+raise than depress. The Indians, when uncontaminated by the vices of the
+whites, are really a fine people; and it is melancholy to reflect that in
+a few centuries the red-man will be known only by name, for his total
+extinction seems almost inevitable.</p><a name="Page_143"></a>
+
+<p>The upshot of this affair proved that the Indians' statement was correct,
+and a few presents was then thought sufficient to compensate the tribe for
+this most unwarrantable outrage.</p>
+
+<p>The fact of the prisoners being set free on their parole, proves the high
+character they maintain with the whites. An officer who had seen a great
+deal of service on the frontiers, assured me that, from <i>experience</i>, he
+had rather fall into the hands of the Indians, than of the
+backwoodsmen.<a name="FNanchor_7_7"></a><a href="#Footnote_7_7"><sup>[7]</sup></a> Once, while crossing one of the immense prairies in the<a name="Page_144"></a>
+Missouri territory during the winter season, this gentleman, Mr. R&mdash;&mdash;,
+was seized with rheumatic pains, and unable to proceed. His party,
+consisting only of a few men, had no provisions, nor had they any means of
+taking him with them, being completely exhausted themselves&mdash;he was left
+on the plains to die. An old Indian chief, of one of the hostile tribes,
+chanced to find him; he carried him home, and nourished him until he was
+sufficiently recovered to eat with the warriors; when they came to the hut
+of his host, in order as they said to do honour to the unfortunate white
+chief. He remained in their village for two months; at the expiration of
+which time, being sufficiently recovered, they conducted him to the
+frontiers, took their leave, and retired.</p>
+
+<p>Clements Burleigh, who resided thirty years in the United States, says, in
+his &quot;Advice to Emigrants,&quot; &quot;It may be objected by some that it is
+dangerous to go to the frontier country, on account of the<a name="Page_145"></a> Indians, wild
+beasts, &amp;c.; this is no more than a scarecrow. Indians in time of peace
+are perfectly inoffensive, and every dependence may be placed on them. If
+you call at their huts, you are invited to partake of what they have&mdash;they
+even will divide with you the last morsel they have, if they were starving
+themselves; and while you remain with them you are perfectly safe, as
+every individual of them would lose his life in your defence. This
+unfortunate portion of the human race has not been treated with that
+degree of justice and tenderness which people calling themselves
+Christians ought to have exercised towards them. Their lands have been
+forcibly taken from them in many instances without rendering them a
+compensation; and in their wars with the people of the United States, the
+most shocking cruelties have been exercised towards them. I myself fought
+against them in two campaigns, and was witness to scenes a repeti<a name="Page_146"></a>tion of
+which would chill the blood, and be only a monument of disgrace to people
+of my own colour.</p>
+
+<p>&quot;Being in the neighbourhood of the Indians during the time of peace, need
+not alarm the emigrant, as the Indian will not be as dangerous to him as
+idle vagabonds that roam the woods and hunt. He has more to dread from
+these people of his own colour than from the Indians.&quot;</p>
+
+<p>FOOTNOTES:</p>
+
+<a name="Footnote_5_5"></a><a href="#FNanchor_5_5">[5]</a><div class="note"><p> Eighteen miles below the mouth of the Missouri, and
+thirty-six below that of the Illinois.</p></div>
+
+<a name="Footnote_6_6"></a><a href="#FNanchor_6_6">[6]</a><div class="note"><p> In the Indian tongue there is no distinction of masculine or
+feminine gender, but simply of animate and inanimate beings.</p></div>
+
+<a name="Footnote_7_7"></a><a href="#FNanchor_7_7">[7]</a><div class="note"><p> &quot;The freedom of manners, and the uncertainty of life, from
+the various hazards to which it is inevitably exposed, imparts to the
+character of savages a species of liberality, under which are couched many
+benevolent principles; a respect for the aged, and in several instances a
+deference to their equals. The natural coldness of their temperament,
+admits of few outward demonstrations of civility. They are, however,
+affable in their mode, and are ever disposed to show towards strangers,
+and particularly towards the unfortunate, the strongest marks of
+hospitality. A savage will seldom hesitate to share with a fellow-creature
+oppressed by hunger, his last morsel of provisions.&quot;&mdash;Vide <i>Heriot</i>, p.
+318.</p></div>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;">
+<a name="CHAPTER_VI"></a><h2><a name="Page_147"></a>CHAPTER VI</h2>
+<br>
+
+<p>On our return to Illinois from Missouri, we visited the tumuli in the
+&quot;American bottom,&quot; for the purpose of more closely investigating the form
+and disposition of these sepulchral mounds. Their shape is invariably
+hemispherical, or of the <i>mam&eacute;lle</i> form. Throughout the country, from the
+banks of the Hudson to a considerable distance beyond the Mississippi,
+tumuli, and the remains of earthen fortifications were dispersed. Those of
+the former which have been removed, were found to contain human bones,
+earthen vessels, and utensils composed of alloyed metal; which latter fact
+is worthy of particular notice, as none of the Indians of North America
+are <a name="Page_148"></a>acquainted with the art of alloying. The vessels were generally of
+the form of drinking cups, or ewer-shaped cans, sometimes with a flange to
+admit a cover. One of those which I saw in a museum at Cincinnati, had
+three small knobs at the bottom on which it stood, and I was credibly
+informed that a dissenting clergyman, through the <i>esprit de metier</i>,
+undertook to prove from the circumstance, that the people who raised these
+mounds and fortifications must have been acquainted with the doctrine of
+the Trinity. How far the reverend gentleman is correct in his inference, I
+leave for theologians to decide.</p>
+
+<p>The Indians do not claim the mounds as depositories for <i>their</i> dead, but
+are well aware of their containing human bones. They frequently encamp
+near them, and visit them on their journeys, but more as land marks than
+on any other account. They approach them with reverence, as they do all
+burial places, no matter of what people or nation. The<a name="Page_149"></a> Quapaws have a
+tradition, that they were raised &quot;many hundred snows&quot; ago, by a people
+that no longer exists; they say, that in those days game was so plenty
+that very little exertion was necessary to procure a subsistence, and
+there were then no wars&mdash;these happy people having then no employment,
+collected, merely for sport, these heaps of earth, which have ever since
+remained, and have subsequently been used by another people, who succeeded
+them, as depositories of their dead. Another tradition is, that they were
+erected by the Indians to protect them from the mammoths, until the Great
+Spirit took pity on his red children, and annihilated these enormous
+elephants. Most of the Indian nations concur in their having been the work
+of a people which had ceased to exist before the red men possessed those
+hunting grounds.</p>
+
+<p>The numerous mounds, fortifications, and burial caverns, and the skeletons
+and mummies, that have been discovered in these <a name="Page_150"></a>catacombs, sufficiently
+establish the fact, that a people altogether different from the present
+aborigines once inhabited these regions. At what period this by-gone
+people flourished still remains a matter of mere conjecture, for to the
+present time no discovery has been made that could lead to any plausible
+supposition.</p>
+
+<p>De Witt Clinton having paid more attention to the antiquities of America
+than any other person of whom I am aware, I shall here insert his
+description of the forts. He says, &quot;These forts were, generally speaking,
+erected on the most commanding ground. The walls, or breastworks, were
+earthen. The ditches were on the exterior of the works. On some of the
+parapets, oak trees were to be seen, which, from the number of concentric
+circles, must have been standing one hundred and fifty, two hundred and
+sixty, and three hundred years; and there were evident indications, not
+only that they had sprung up since the erection of these works, <a name="Page_151"></a>but that
+they were at least a second growth. The trenches were in some cases deep
+and wide, and in others shallow and narrow; and the breastworks varied in
+altitude from three to eight feet. They sometimes had one, and sometimes
+two entrances, as was to be inferred from there being no ditches at those
+places. When the works were protected by a deep ravine, or large stream of
+water, no ditch was to be seen. The areas of these forts varied from two
+to six acres; and the form was in general an irregular ellipsis; in some
+of them, fragments of earthenware and pulverized substances, supposed to
+have been originally human bones, were to be found.&quot;</p>
+
+<hr style="width: 45%;">
+
+<p>&quot;I believe we may confidently pronounce, that all the hypotheses which
+attribute these works to Europeans are incorrect and fanciful: 1st. on
+account of the present number of the works; 2d. on account of their
+antiquity; having from every appearance been erected a long time before
+the discovery of<a name="Page_152"></a> America; and, finally, their form and manner are varient
+from European fortifications, either in ancient or modern times.</p>
+
+<p>&quot;It is equally clear that they were not the work of the Indians. Until the
+Senecas, who are renowned for their national vanity, had seen the
+attention of the Americans attracted to these erections, and had invented
+the fabulous account of which I have spoken, the Indians of the present
+day did not pretend to know any thing about their origin. They were beyond
+the reach of all their traditions, and were lost in the abyss of
+unexplored antiquity.&quot;</p>
+
+<p>At the Bull shoals, east branch of White river in Missouri, several feet
+below the surface of the banks, <i>reliqua</i> were found which indicated that
+this spot had formerly been the seat of metalurgical operations. The alloy
+appeared to be lead united with silver. Arrow-heads cut out of flint, and
+pieces of earthen pots which had evidently undergone the action of fire,
+were also found <a name="Page_153"></a>here. The period of time at which these operations were
+carried on in this place must have been very remote, as the present banks
+have been since entirely formed by alluvial deposits.</p>
+
+<p>Near the <i>Teel-te-nah</i> (or dripping-fork), which empties itself into the
+La Platte, and not far distant from its junction with that river, there is
+an extensive cavern, in which are deposited several mummies. Some tribes
+which roam this region have a tradition, that the first Indian ascended
+through this aperture, and settled on the earth's surface.</p>
+
+<p>A few years since, on the Merrimac river in St. Louis county, a number of
+pigmy graves were discovered. The coffins were of stone; and the length of
+the bodies which they contained, judging from that of the coffins, could
+not have been more than from three feet and a half to four feet. The
+graves were numerous, and the skeletons in some instances nearly entire.</p>
+
+<p>In the month of June (1830), a party of <a name="Page_154"></a>gentlemen, whilst in pursuit of
+wild turkeys, in Hart county, Kentucky, discovered, on the top of a small
+knoll, a hole sufficiently large to admit a man's body. Having procured
+lights, they descended, and at the depth of about sixty feet, entered a
+cavern, sixteen or eighteen feet square, apparently hewn out of solid
+rock. The whole chamber was filled with human skeletons, which they
+supposed, <i>from the size</i>, to be those of women and children. The place
+was perfectly dry, and the bones were in a state of great preservation.
+They wished to ascertain how deep the bones lay, and dug through them
+between four and seven feet, but found them quite as plentiful as at the
+top: on coming to this depth, dampness appeared, and an unpleasant
+effluvia arising, obliged them to desist. There was no outlet to the
+cavern. A large snake, which appeared to be perfectly docile, passed
+several times round the apartment whilst they remained.</p>
+
+<p>In a museum at New York, I saw one <a name="Page_155"></a>of those mummies alluded to, which
+appeared to be remarkably small; but I had not an opportunity of examining
+it minutely. Those that have been found in the most perfect state of
+preservation were deposited in nitrous caves, and were enveloped in a
+manner so different from the practices of the Indians, that the idea
+cannot be entertained of their being the remains of the ancestors of the
+present race. Flint gives the following description of one of them which
+he carefully examined. He says, &quot;The more the subject of the past races of
+men and animals in this region is investigated, the more perplexed it
+seems to become. The huge bones of the animals indicate them to be vastly
+larger than any that now exist on the earth. All that I have seen and
+heard of the remains of the men, would seem to shew that they were smaller
+than the men of our times. All the bodies that have been found in that
+high state of preservation, in which they were discovered in nitrous
+caves, were consider<a name="Page_156"></a>ably smaller than the present ordinary stature of
+men. The two bodies that were found in the vast limestone cavern in
+Tennessee, one of which I saw at Lexington, were neither of them more than
+four feet in height. It seems to me that this must have been nearly the
+height of the living person. The teeth and nails did not seem to indicate
+the shrinking of the flesh from them in the desiccating process by which
+they were preserved. The teeth were separated by considerable intervals;
+and were small, long, white, and sharp, reviving the horrible images of
+nursery tales of ogres' teeth. The hair seemed to have been sandy, or
+inclining to yellow. It is well known that nothing is so uniform in the
+present Indian as his lank black hair. From the pains taken to preserve
+the bodies, and the great labour of making the funeral robes in which they
+were folded, they must have been of the 'blood-royal,' or personages of
+great consideration in their day. The person that I saw, had <a name="Page_157"></a>evidently
+died by a blow on the skull. The blood had coagulated there into a mass,
+of a texture and colour sufficiently marked to shew that it had been
+blood. The envelope of the body was double. Two splendid blankets,
+completely woven with the most beautiful feathers of the wild turkey,
+arranged in regular stripes and compartments, encircled it. The cloth on
+which these feathers were woven, was a kind of linen of neat texture, of
+the same kind with that which is now woven from the fibres of the nettle.
+The body was evidently that of a female of middle age, and I should
+suppose that her majesty weighed, when I saw her, six or eight pounds.&quot;</p>
+
+<p>The silly attempts that have been made to establish an oriental origin for
+the North American Indians, have never produced any other conviction in an
+unbiased mind, than that the <i>facts</i> brought forward to support that
+theory existed only in the imaginations of those who advanced them. The
+colour, the <a name="Page_158"></a>form, the manners, habits, and propensities of the Indians,
+all combine to establish that they are a distinct race of human beings,
+and could never have emanated from any people of European, Asiatic, or
+African origin. The notion that climate would be sufficient to produce an
+essential change in the appearance of any number of individuals, cannot
+now be maintained; since from the discovery of America, Europeans,
+Africans, and Indians have inhabited all regions of this vast continent,
+without undergoing the slightest characteristic change from the
+descendants of the original stock, who have remained in their primitive
+locations. The Power that induces the existence of plants and lower
+animals indigenous to the different sections of the earth, seems also to
+induce the existence of a race of men peculiar to the regions in which
+they are found.</p>
+
+<p>The languages of America are radically different from those of the old
+world; and no similitude can be traced between the tongues <a name="Page_159"></a>of the red
+men, and those of any other people hitherto known. Jarvis, in his Paper on
+the Religion of the Indian Tribes of North America, says, &quot;The best
+informed writers agree, that there are, exclusive of the Karalit or
+Esquimaux, three radical languages spoken by the Indians of North America.
+Mr. Heckwelder denominates them the Iroquois, the Lenap&eacute;, and the
+Floridian. The Iroquois is spoken by the Six Nations, the Wyandots, or
+Hurons, the Nandowessies, the Assiniboils, and other tribes beyond the St.
+Lawrence. The Lenap&eacute;, which is the most widely extended language on this
+side the Mississippi, was spoken by the tribes now extinct, who formerly
+inhabited Nova Scotia and the present state of Maine, the Abenakis,
+Micmacs, Canibas, Openangos, Soccokis, Etchemins, and Souriquois; dialects
+of it are now spoken by the Miamis, the Potawatomies, Missisangoes, and
+Kickapoos; the Eonestogas, Nanticokes, Shawanese, and Mohicans; the
+Algonquins, Knisteneaux, and Chippeways.<a name="Page_160"></a> The Floridian includes the
+languages of the Creeks, or Muskohgees, Chickesaws, Choctaws, Pascagoulas,
+Cherokees, Seminolese, and several other tribes in the southern states and
+Florida. These three languages are primitive; that is to say, are so
+distinct as to have no perceivable affinity. All, therefore, cannot be
+derived from the Hebrew; for it is a contradiction in terms to speak of
+three languages radically different, as derived from a common source.
+Which, then, we may well ask, is to be selected as the posterity of the
+Israelites: the Iroquois, the Lenap&eacute;, or the southern Indians?</p>
+
+<p>&quot;Besides, there is one striking peculiarity in the construction of
+American languages, which has no counterpart in the Hebrew. Instead of the
+ordinary division of genders, they divide into animate and inanimate. It
+is impossible to conceive that any nation, in whatever circumstances they
+might be placed, could depart in so remarkable a manner from the idioms of
+their native language.&quot;</p><a name="Page_161"></a>
+
+<p>M. Duponceau, a Frenchman settled at Philadelphia, who is perhaps one of
+the first philologists of the age, concludes a treatise on the same
+subject with the following deductions:</p>
+
+<p>1.&mdash;&quot;That the American languages, in general, are rich in words and in
+grammatical forms; and that in their complicated construction, the
+greatest order, method, and regularity prevail.&quot;</p>
+
+<p>2.&mdash;&quot;That these complicated forms, which I call polysinthetic, appear to
+exist in all those languages, from Greenland to Cape Horn.&quot;<a name="FNanchor_8_8"></a><a href="#Footnote_8_8"><sup>[8]</sup></a></p>
+
+<p>3.&mdash;&quot;That these forms appear to differ <a name="Page_162"></a>essentially from those of the
+ancient and modern languages of the old hemisphere.&quot;</p>
+
+<p>We intended to proceed direct from the banks of the Mississippi to
+Edwardsville, which lies in a north-easterly direction from St. Louis, but
+unfortunately got on the wrong track, an occurrence by no means uncommon
+on the prairies, and by this casualty visited Troy, a <i>town</i> containing
+two houses, namely, a &quot;groggery,&quot; and a farm-house, both owned by the one
+person. The only resemblance this trans-Atlantic Ilium can possibly bear
+to the city of the ten years' siege, lies in the difficulty of
+ascertaining its location; for had we not been informed that here stood
+the town of Troy, we should have passed through this, as we did through
+many others, without ever suspecting the fact. Town-making is quite a
+speculation in the western country; and the first thing a man does after
+purchasing a few hundred acres of ground, is to &quot;lay off a town lot:&quot; this
+causes the maps to be studded with little circular dots, and great <a name="Page_163"></a>big
+names attached to them, which would lead one to suppose the population to
+be much greater than it is in reality.</p>
+
+<p>From Edwardsville, we proceeded by Ripley and Greenville, to Vandalia, the
+seat of government of the state.</p>
+
+<p>The prairies had lost much of the brilliant green colour which they
+possessed when we before crossed them, and they were now assuming rather a
+burnt appearance. Towards the close of autumn the grass generally becomes
+so dry as to be easily ignited, which formerly took place by accident, or
+otherwise, almost every year. The sight must be grand indeed; and we
+almost regretted that we were not so fortunate as to be in danger of being
+burnt alive&mdash;the sight would be worth the risk. There is a penalty
+attached to the firing of the woods or prairies, as the plantations are
+now becoming too numerously scattered over the country, and property is
+likely to be injured by these conflagrations.</p><a name="Page_164"></a>
+
+<p>Towards the latter end of October, the season peculiar to this country,
+denominated the &quot;Indian summer,&quot; commences, and lasts for some weeks. At
+this period, the atmosphere is suffused with a vapour which at a distance
+has the appearance of smoke, arising as it were from fires in the forest.
+The air is always calm and mild on those days, and the sun's disk assumes
+a broad, reddish appearance.</p>
+
+<p>Vandalia is the capital of Illinois, and is seated on the Kaskaskia river,
+which is only navigable to this point during the &quot;freshets&quot; in autumn and
+spring. The positions of the capitals are chosen for their centrality
+alone, and not with reference to any local advantages they may possess.</p>
+
+<p>Illinois is a free state, and its constitution is but a counterpart of
+those of Ohio and Indiana. The extent is 380 miles from north to south,
+and about 140 miles from east to west: area, 52,000 square miles, or
+33,280,000 acres. The population in 1810, <a name="Page_165"></a>was 12,282; in 1820, 55,211:
+white males, 29,401; white females, 24,387; slaves, 917; militia in 1821,
+2,031. The present population is, according to the last census, 157,575.
+The increase within the last ten years has been nearly 186 per cent.</p>
+
+<p>This state is better circumstanced than any other in the west. It is
+bounded on the north by the north-west territory; on the south by the
+Ohio; on the east by the Wabash and Lake Michigan; and on the west by the
+Mississippi. The Illinois river is navigable at almost all seasons to very
+nearly its head waters; and by means of a very short portage a
+communication is established between it and Lake Michigan. A canal is
+contemplated between this lake and the Wabash.</p>
+
+<p>The heath-hen (<i>tetrao cupido</i>), or as it is here called, the
+'Prairie-hen,' abounds on the prairies, particularly in the neighbourhood
+of barrens. This species of grouse, I believe, is not to be met with in
+Europe; nor has it <a name="Page_166"></a>been accurately described by any ornithologist before
+Wilson. One habit of the male of this bird is remarkable: at the season of
+incubation, the cocks assemble every morning just before day-break,
+outside the wood, and there exercise themselves tilting until the sun
+appears, when they disperse. Hunters have not failed to note the
+circumstance, and take advantage of it.</p>
+
+<p>We were frequently amused with the movements of the &quot;Turkey buzzard&quot;
+(<i>vultur aura</i>). This bird is well known in the southern and western
+states; and in the former is considered of so much utility that a penalty
+is inflicted on any person who may wantonly destroy it. It is perfectly
+harmless, never attacking even the smallest living animal, and seems
+always to prefer carrion when in a state of putrefaction. Except when
+rising from the ground, the buzzard never flaps its wings, but literally
+floats through the atmosphere, forming graceful ogees.</p>
+
+<p>During our journeys across Illinois, we <a name="Page_167"></a>passed several large bodies of
+settlers on their way to Sangamon and Morgan counties in that state. These
+counties are situated on the Illinois river, and are said to be fertile
+tracts. The mass of those persons were Georgians, Virginians, and
+Kentuckians, whose comparative poverty rendered their residence in slave
+states unpleasant.</p>
+
+<p>Perhaps there is nothing more remarkable in the character of the Americans
+than the indifference with which they leave their old habitations,
+friends, and relations. Each individual is taught to depend mainly on his
+own exertions, and therefore seldom expects or requires extraordinary
+assistance from any man. Attachments seldom exist here beyond that of
+ordinary acquaintances&mdash;these are easily found wherever one may go,
+arising from a variety of circumstances connected with their institutions
+and their necessities; and thus one of the great objections that present
+themselves to change with Europeans scarcely exists here. Observe, I apply
+this <a name="Page_168"></a>remark more particularly to the western and southern states; for the
+eastern states being longer settled and more thickly populated, these
+feelings, although they exist, yet they do so in a more modified degree.</p>
+
+<p>The appearance presented by the forests at this season is very
+beautiful&mdash;the trees are covered with leaves of almost every colour, from
+bright crimson to nearly snow-white; the admixture of green, brown,
+yellow, scarlet, &amp;c., such as is almost peculiar to an American forest,
+produces a very pleasing combination.</p>
+
+<p>We again reached Albion, and retraced our steps from thence to Harmony,
+where we deposited our friend B&mdash;&mdash;; and after having remained there for a
+few days to refresh ourselves and horse, set forward for Ohio. The weather
+had now become unfavourable, and the frequent rains and high winds were
+shaking the leaves down in myriads&mdash;the entire of our journey through
+Indiana being across forests, we were under one constant <a name="Page_169"></a>shower of leaves
+from Harmony to Cincinnati.</p>
+
+<p>One day while getting our horse fed at a tavern in Indiana, the following
+conversation took place between the persons there assembled. We were
+sitting at the door, surrounded by captains, lawyers, and squires, when
+one of the gentlemen demanded of another if there had not been a &quot;gouging
+scrape&quot; at the &quot;Colonel's tavern&quot; the evening before. He replied in the
+affirmative; and after having related the cause of quarrel, and said that
+the lie had been given, he continued, &quot;the judge knocked the major right
+over, and jumped on to him in double quick time&mdash;they had it rough and
+tumble for about ten minutes&mdash;Lord J&mdash;s Alm&mdash;&mdash;y!&mdash;as pretty a scrape as
+ever you <i>see'd</i>&mdash;the judge is a wonderfully lovely fellow.&quot; Then followed
+a description of the divers punishments inflicted by the combatants on
+each other&mdash;the major had his eye nearly &quot;gouged&quot; out, and the judge his
+chin almost bitten off.<a name="Page_170"></a> During the recital, the whole party was convulsed
+with laughter&mdash;in which we joined most heartily.</p>
+
+<p>We of course returned by a different route through Indiana, passing from
+Princeton to Portersville, and from thence through Paoli, Salem, and New
+Lexington, to Madison. The country about Madison is hilly and broken,
+which makes travelling tedious in the extreme. From the mouth of the Big
+Miami to Blue river, a range of hills runs parallel to the Ohio,
+alternately approaching to within a few perches of the river, and receding
+to a distance of one to two miles. Below Blue river the hills disappear,
+and the land becomes level and heavily timbered. There is also another
+range of hills, extending from the Falls of Ohio to the Wabash in a
+south-westerly direction, which are called the &quot;knobs:&quot; to the west of
+these are the &quot;flats;&quot; and from the Wabash to lake Michigan the country is
+champaign.</p>
+
+<p>Indianopolis is the capital of Indiana, and <a name="Page_171"></a>is seated on the White river.
+This state averages about 270 miles from north to south, and 144 miles
+from east to west: area, 37,000 square miles, or 23,680,000 acres. The
+population in 1810, was 24,520&mdash;in 1820, 147,178: white males, 79,919;
+white females, 69,107; slaves, 190; militia in 1821, 14,990. The present
+population is 341,582.</p>
+
+<p>Vast quantities of hogs are bred in the state of Indiana, and are suffered
+to rove at large in the forests in search of mast. They are in general
+perfectly wild, and when encountered suddenly bristle up like an enraged
+porcupine. Their legs are long; bodies thin; and tail lengthy and
+straight. I was informed that if one of those animals be wounded, its
+screams will draw an immense concourse of its brethren around it, and that
+the situation of a person under these circumstances, is by no means void
+of danger; as they will not fail to attack him <i>en masse</i>. We were once
+very nigh getting into a scrape of this description. Driving along through
+the forest, <a name="Page_172"></a>we had to pass a tract covered with a thick growth of
+brushwood&mdash;my friend seeing something stirring among the bushes, drew up,
+and taking it for a deer, called out to me to fire&mdash;I stood up in the
+vehicle, and levelled where I saw the movement, when, lo! out starts a
+bristling hog, with a grunt just in time to escape with a whole skin.</p>
+
+<p>One night having been accidently separated from my fellow-traveller, I had
+to stay in a miserable-looking hut close to a creek, the habitation of a
+backwoodsman. This person's appearance was extremely unprepossessing. The
+air of ferocity and wildness which characterized his countenance, added to
+his unhealthy, cadaverous aspect, would have been sufficient in any other
+country to make one feel unpleasant at passing the night alone under his
+roof. He resided in this unhealthy situation, because the land was
+extremely fertile; but stated that every fall some one of his family was
+ill, and none of them enjoyed good health. Now when we <a name="Page_173"></a>summed up the
+consequent loss of labour incident to ill health, the balance of profit
+seemed to be greatly against bottom land, and much in favour of the
+healthful prairies.</p>
+
+<p>The farmers use, almost exclusively, the sugar of the maple (<i>acer
+saccharinum</i>) which they manufacture themselves. The space in which a
+number of these trees are found, they call a &quot;sugar camp.&quot; The process of
+manufacturing is as follows:&mdash;After the first frost, the trees are tapped,
+by perforating the trunk in an ascending direction. A spout of alder is
+inserted in the perforation, and the sap drips through this conduit into a
+trough of wood. The sap is then boiled with a spoonful of slacked lime,
+the white of an egg or two, and about a pint of milk, to every fifteen
+gallons. An ordinary tree commonly gives four pounds of good coarse brown
+sugar, which when refined can be made equal to superior lump sugar.</p>
+
+<p>A great portion of the roads through which we passed were mere horse
+paths, <a name="Page_174"></a>full of stumps, with shrubs entangled across them so thickly, that
+we were often obliged to dismount in order to cut away part of the
+impediment. Large trees which have fallen across the road, frequently
+intercept your passage, and you have no alternative but to lift the wheels
+of the vehicle over them.</p>
+
+<p>As we approached Cincinnati the difficulty of travelling became greatly
+augmented. The rains had cut up the roads into ravines, sometimes full
+three feet in depth, which, added to the clayey nature of the soil,
+completely exhausted the horse, and rendered him incapable of proceeding
+faster than a slow walk, even with the empty carriage.</p>
+
+<p>There are a number of Baptists residing at Cincinnati, who frequently
+entertain the inhabitants with public baptisms in the Ohio river. At one
+of those ceremonies, about this time, rather a ludicrous occurrence took
+place. The baptizing preacher stands up to <a name="Page_175"></a>his middle in the water, and
+the person to be baptized is led to him by another preacher. On this
+occasion the officiating clergyman was rather a slight man, and the lady
+to be baptized was extremely large and corpulent&mdash;he took her by the
+hands to perform the immersion, but notwithstanding his most strenuous
+exertions, he was thrown off his centre. She finding him yield, held
+still harder, until they both sowsed completely under the water, where
+they lay floundering and struggling for some time, amidst the shouts and
+laughter of the multitude assembled on shore. At length their brethren
+extricated them from this perilous situation.</p>
+<a name="Page_176"></a>
+<p>FOOTNOTES:</p>
+
+<a name="Footnote_8_8"></a><a href="#FNanchor_8_8">[8]</a><div class="note"><p> M. Duponceau adduces the following examples: &quot;In the
+Arancanian language the word '<i>idnancloclavin</i>' means 'I do not
+wish to eat with him.' There is a similar verb in the Delaware
+tongue&mdash;'<i>n'schingiwipona</i>,' which means 'I do not like to eat
+with him.' To which may be added another example in the latter
+tongue&mdash;'<i>machtitschwanne</i>,'&mdash;this must be translated 'a cluster of
+islands with channels every way, so that it is in no place shut up, or
+impassable for craft.' This term is applied to the islands in the bay of
+New York.&quot;</p></div>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;">
+<a name="CHAPTER_VII"></a><h2><a name="Page_177"></a>CHAPTER VII</h2>
+<br>
+
+<p>The weather having become cold and disagreeable towards the latter end of
+December, I set out for New Orleans. The larger class of steam-boats lay
+then at Shippingsport, immediately below the falls of Ohio, the river not
+being sufficiently high to enable them to pass over those rapids. Boats
+drawing from nineteen to twenty-six inches water can almost at all seasons
+ply on the Upper Ohio, and during the periods that the large boats are
+detained below the Falls, they are constantly employed in transporting
+produce, intended for the markets on the Mississippi, to Louisville, from
+whence it is drayed round to Shippingsport and re-shipped. Flat-boats <a name="Page_178"></a>are
+also employed for this purpose, and they are preferred, as they pass over
+the Falls, and thus land-carriage is avoided.</p>
+
+<p>Louisville is the chief town of Jefferson county, in Kentucky, and at
+present it is estimated to contain about 12,000 inhabitants, including
+slaves and free people of colour. The store-keepers here are more wealthy
+than those of Cincinnati, and their manners less disagreeable. The
+inhabitants of the latter town being mostly from the New England states,
+have in their dealings and manners that dry shrewdness which is the true
+Yankee characteristic. There are also located in Cincinnati some Irish
+pedlars, who have by all manner of means acquired wealth, and are now the
+&quot;biggest bugs&quot;<a name="FNanchor_9_9"></a><a href="#Footnote_9_9"><sup>[9]</sup></a> in the place.</p>
+
+<p>The public buildings of Louisville are few, and the streets are laid out
+in the usual style, crossing each other at right angles.<a name="Page_179"></a> It contains a
+few good brick dwelling-houses, and a number of excellent hack-carriages
+are stationed near the steam-boat landing. A canal round the Falls, from
+Beargrass-creek to Shippingsport, is being constructed, which will enable
+steam-boats of the largest tonnage to pass through; and thus it will open
+an uninterrupted intercourse between the Upper and Lower Ohio, and the
+Mississippi. The length of this canal is about two and a half miles, and
+the original estimate was 200,000 dollars, but this sum has been found
+insufficient.</p>
+
+<p>At Louisville I took a berth on board a boat for New Orleans. The
+steam-boats on the Mississippi are large, and splendidly appointed; the
+interior has more the appearance of a well fitted up dining-room than the
+cabin of a boat. The charge is twenty-five dollars, for which you are
+found in every thing except liquors. Meats, fowls, vegetables, fruits,
+preserves, &amp;c., are served in abundance, and of the very best quality.
+Here <a name="Page_180"></a>you may see tradesmen, &quot;nigger traders,&quot; farmers, &quot;congress men,&quot;
+captains, generals, and judges, all seated at the same table, in true
+republican simplicity. There is no appearance of awkwardness in the
+behaviour of the humblest person you see seated at those tables; and
+indeed their general good conduct is remarkable&mdash;I mean when contrasted
+with that of the same class in England. The truth is, the tradesman here
+finds himself of some importance in the scale of society, and endeavours
+to show that he is fully qualified to be seated at the same table, <i>en
+passant</i>, with the most wealthy citizen. No doubt the higher classes have
+some of that high polish rubbed off by these occasional contacts with
+their less-civilized fellow citizens; but the humbler classes decidedly
+gain what <i>they</i> lose. All dress well, and are <i>American</i> gentlemen.</p>
+
+<p>The Ohio is formed by the junction of the Alleghany and Monongahela rivers
+at Pittsburg, that town being seated in the fork&mdash;its <a name="Page_181"></a>breadth there, is
+between eight and nine hundred yards. From the mouths of those two rivers
+it narrows and deepens for some distance; but afterwards, from the
+accession of the many tributary streams by which it is supplied, gradually
+becomes wider and deeper, until it empties itself into the Mississippi.
+The length of the Ohio, following its meanders, is about 950 miles, and it
+may be said to be navigable almost the entire year, as the water must be
+unusually low when the smaller steam-boats cannot ply to Pittsburg. The
+character of this river is somewhat peculiar. But for the improvements on
+the banks, when you have seen six or eight miles of this stream, you are
+acquainted with the remainder as far as the Falls&mdash;that is to say, any
+variety that may be in the scenery will occur in any given six miles from
+Pittsburg to that point. Below Louisville there are one or two rocky
+bluffs, and the face of the country is somewhat different. The channel of
+the Upper Ohio lies <a name="Page_182"></a>between hills, which frequently approach the
+<i>mam&eacute;lle</i> form, and are covered with a heavy growth of timber. Where the
+hills or bluffs do not rise immediately from the river, but recede some
+distance, the space between the river and the hill is called bottom land,
+from the circumstance of its being overflown annually; or having at some
+former period formed part of the river's bed, which is indicated by the
+nature of the soil. The bluffs and bottoms invariably alternate; and when
+you have bluffs on one side, you are sure to have bottom on the other. The
+windings are extremely uniform, with few exceptions, curving in a
+serpentine form in so regular a manner, that the Indians always calculated
+the distance by the number of bends.</p>
+
+<p>&quot;The Falls&quot; are improperly so termed, as this obstruction is nothing more
+than a gradual descent for a distance of about a mile and a half, where
+the water, forcing its way over a rugged rocky bottom, presents the
+appearance of a rapid. Below this the country <a name="Page_183"></a>is of various
+aspects&mdash;hills, bottom-land, and high rocky bluffs; and towards the mouth,
+cotton-wood trees, (<i>populus angulata</i>), and cane brakes, are interspersed
+along the banks. The junction of these two noble rivers, the Ohio and
+Mississippi, is really a splendid sight&mdash;the scenery is picturesque, and
+the water at the point of union is fully two miles broad.</p>
+
+<p>The Mississippi<a name="FNanchor_10_10"></a><a href="#Footnote_10_10"><sup>[10]</sup></a> is in length, from its head waters to the <i>balize</i> in
+the gulf of Mexico, about two thousand three hundred miles, and flows
+through an immense variety of country. The section through which it
+passes, before its junction with the Missouri, is represented as being
+elegantly diversified with woodlands, prairies, and rich bottoms, and the
+banks are lined with a luxuriant growth of plants and flowers. Before
+reaching the Missouri, the water of the Mississippi is perfectly limpid;
+but, from the <a name="Page_184"></a>mouth of that river it becomes turgid and muddy&mdash;flows
+through a flat, inundated country, and seems more like an immense flood,
+than an old and deep-channelled river. As far as great things can be
+compared to small, it much resembles, within its banks, the Rhone when
+flooded, as it sweeps through the department of Vaucluse, after its
+junction with the Saone.</p>
+
+<p>From St. Louis to New Orleans, a distance of twelve hundred miles, there
+are but six elevated points&mdash;the four Chickesaw bluffs, the Iron banks,
+and the Walnut hills. Numerous islands are interspersed through this
+river; and from the mouth of the Ohio, tall cotton-wood trees and
+cane-brakes grow in immense quantities along the banks; the latter, being
+evergreens, have a pleasing effect in the winter season. The windings of
+the Mississippi are, like those of the Ohio, constant, but not so
+serpentine, and some of them are of immense magnitude. You traverse every
+point of the compass in your <a name="Page_185"></a>passage up or down: for example, there is a
+bend near <i>Bayou Placquamine</i>, the length of which by the water is upwards
+of sixty miles, and from one point to the other across the distance is but
+three.</p>
+
+<p>The town of &quot;Baton Rouge&quot; is situated about 190 miles above New Orleans,
+and contains a small garrison;&mdash;the esplanade runs down to the
+water's-edge, and the whole has a pretty effect. Here the sugar
+plantations commence, and the face of the country is again changed&mdash;you
+find yourself in the regions of the south. For a distance of from
+half-a-mile to two miles back, at each side, the land is planted with
+sugar-canes, and highly cultivated. The planters' houses are tastefully
+built, surrounded by gardens full of orange-trees, flowers, and
+evergreens, presenting the idea of perpetual spring, which here is indeed
+the case. The winters are seldom more severe than a mild spring in
+England. I first came in on this region at night, at the season of
+planting, when the <a name="Page_186"></a>cast or used canes are burned in heaps on each
+plantation. The dark turgid waters&mdash;the distant fires, surrounded by
+clouds of white smoke ascending in winding columns to the skies&mdash;the
+stillness of the night, interrupted only by the occasional cry of the
+pelican or the crane, and the monotonous thumping of the steam-boat
+paddles, formed a strange combination; and had the days of witches and
+warlocks not long since passed away, one would have sworn that these
+gentry were performing incantations over the mystic cauldrons, casting
+&quot;seven bullets,&quot; or &quot;raising spirits from the vasty deep.&quot;</p>
+
+<p>The Mississippi is in few places more than from half-a-mile to a mile
+wide; and were one to judge of its magnitude by its breadth alone, a very
+erroneous estimate would be formed. It is only by contemplating the many
+vast rivers which empty themselves into the Mississippi that you can form
+a correct idea of the immense volume of water that flows through this
+channel into <a name="Page_187"></a>the Gulf of Mexico. Many of its larger tributary streams
+have the appearance of being as great as itself&mdash;the depth alone
+indicating the superiority of this mighty river over every other in
+America; and, considering its length, perhaps over any other in the world.</p>
+
+<p>The great valley of the Mississippi extends, in length, from the Gulf of
+Mexico to a distance of nearly 3000 miles; and is in breadth, from the
+base of the Alleghanies to the foot of the Rocky mountains, about 2,500
+miles. The soil is composed of alluvial deposits, to a depth of from
+twenty to fifty feet; and I have myself seen, near New Orleans, trees
+lying in the horizontal position six or seven feet below the surface. This
+valley has been frequently visited by earthquakes, which have sometimes
+changed part of the channel of the river, and at others formed lakes.
+Those which occurred between the years 1811 and 1813, did serious injury,
+particularly in the neighbourhood of<a name="Page_188"></a> New Madrid, near the west bank,
+below the mouth of the Ohio. At several points the bank is sunk eight or
+ten feet below the surface of the adjacent ground, with the trees
+remaining upright as before.</p>
+
+<p>New Orleans is seated on the south-east bank of the Mississippi; and,
+following the sinuosities of the current, about 109 miles from the Gulf of
+Mexico. The river takes here a right-angular sweep, and the city proper is
+built on the exterior point of the bend, the <i>fauxbourgs</i> extending at
+each side along the banks. At high water the river rises three feet above
+any part of the city; consequently, were it not for lev&eacute;es that have been
+constructed here, and also along the banks of the river for more than a
+hundred miles, at both sides, above and below, the whole country would be
+periodically inundated. The fall from the lev&eacute;e to Bayou St. John, which
+communicates with <i>Lac Pontchartrain</i>, is about thirty feet, and the
+distance one mile. This fall is certainly <a name="Page_189"></a>inconsiderable; but I apprehend
+that it would be sufficient to drain the streets effectually, if proper
+attention were directed to that object.</p>
+
+<p>The city extends only half-a-mile back, and, including the <i>fauxbourgs</i>,
+about two miles along the river. The streets, being only partially paved,
+can never be perfectly cleaned, and stagnant water remains in the kennels
+at all seasons; this and the exhalations from the swamps in warm weather,
+produce that pestilential scourge with which the place is annually
+afflicted. The mortality here last season (the autumn of 1829) has been
+variously stated in the public prints at from five to seven thousand, who
+died of the yellow fever in the space of about ten weeks. This statement,
+however, is erroneous; as, from information which I received from the
+sexton of the American grave-yard, and from the number of fresh graves
+which I saw there, I am inclined to think that the total amount falls
+short of 2500, out of a resident <a name="Page_190"></a>population of less than 40,000 souls.
+About 700 were buried in the American grave-yard, and perhaps double that
+number in that of the French.</p>
+
+<p>The port of New Orleans presents the most extraordinary medley of any port
+in the world. Craft of every possible variety may be seen moored along the
+lev&eacute;es, and the markets and adjacent streets crowded with people of almost
+every nation in Europe, Africa, and America, who create a frightful
+confusion of tongues. A particular part of the quay is appropriated to
+each description of craft, and a penalty is enforced for any deviation
+from port regulations. The upper part is occupied with flat-boats, arks,
+peeroges, rafts, keel-boats, canoes, and steam-boats; and below these are
+stationed schooners, cutters, brigs, ships, &amp;c., in regular succession.
+The lev&eacute;e is almost constantly filled with merchandize; and the scene of
+bustle and confusion which is exhibited here during the early part of the
+day, fully proves the large <a name="Page_191"></a>amount of commercial intercourse which this
+city enjoys.</p>
+
+<p>When Louisiana was ceded to the United States, in 1803, Orleans was then
+entirely occupied by Creole-French and Spanish, consequently the majority
+of the habitations and public buildings, are in the French and Spanish
+style. The cathedral, which presents a handsome fa&ccedil;ade of about seventy
+feet, the town-hall, and courts, occupy one side of the <i>place
+d'armes,</i>&mdash;these, with the American theatre, the <i>th&eacute;&acirc;tre d'Orleans,</i> or
+French opera house, the hospital, and three or four churches, are the only
+public buildings in the city. The houses are all flat-roofed, and those in
+the back streets and fauxbourgs are seldom more than one story high; the
+practice of building houses in this manner was pursued in order to avoid
+injury from tornadoes, which occasionally visit the valley of the
+Mississippi; latterly they have not been of frequent occurrence, although
+when they do arise, they are extremely violent. The town of Urbana, in<a name="Page_192"></a>
+Ohio, this year (1830) has been nearly destroyed by a visitation of this
+nature.</p>
+
+<p>Pharo-banks, roulette-tables, and gambling of all kinds, are publicly
+permitted; but the proprietor of each establishment pays a tax of 5000
+dollars per annum. The <i>th&eacute;&acirc;tre d'Orleans</i> on Sunday evenings, is
+generally crowded with beautiful French women. Every night during the
+winter season there is a <i>bal par&eacute; et masqu&eacute;</i>, and occasionally &quot;quadroon
+balls,&quot; which are attended by the young men of the city and their <i>ch&eacute;res
+amies</i> quadroons, who are decidedly the finest women in the country, being
+well formed, and graceful in their carriage. The Louisianians are
+prohibited by law from marrying with quadroons, although this <i>caste</i> is
+free, and many of them have been educated in France, and are highly
+accomplished.</p>
+
+<p>In the south, slavery exists in its most unqualified condition, wanting
+those milder modifications which serve to dress and decorate the person of
+this ugly fiend. Here may <a name="Page_193"></a>be seen hundreds of animals of our own genus
+exposed in the public bazaars for sale, and examined with as much care,
+and precisely in the same manner, as we examine horses. In some of the
+slave states the law prohibits the separation of families, but this
+prohibition is little attended to, as the slave has no possibility of
+coming in contact with any dispensers of justice but the magistrates of
+the state, who, being slave-holders themselves, instead of redressing his
+grievances, would be more likely to order him a lashing, for presuming to
+complain. Many melancholy instances occur here, which clearly illustrate
+the evils of slavery and its demoralizing influence on the human
+character. The arguments against slavery are deduced from self-evident
+propositions, and must carry conviction to every well organized mind; yet
+from their application being of too general a character, they seldom
+interest the feelings, and in the end leave less impression than the
+simple statement of a particular occurrence. During my stay, a<a name="Page_194"></a> Doctor
+&mdash;&mdash; came down the river with thirty slaves, among which were an old negro
+and negress, each between sixty and seventy years of age; this unfortunate
+old woman had borne twenty-one children, all of whom had been at different
+times sold in the Orleans market, and carried into other states, and into
+distant parts of Louisiana. The Doctor said, in order to induce her to
+leave home quietly, that he was bringing her into Louisiana for the
+purpose of placing her with some of her children&mdash;&quot;and now,&quot; says the old
+negress, &quot;aldo I suckle my massa at dis breast, yet now he sell me to
+sugar planter, after he sell all my children away from me.&quot; This gentleman
+was a strict Methodist, or &quot;saint,&quot; and is, I was informed, much esteemed
+by the preachers of that persuasion, because of his liberal contributions
+to their support.</p>
+
+<p>Negresses, when young and likely, are often employed as wet nurses by
+white people, as also by either the planter or his friends, to <a name="Page_195"></a>administer
+to their sensual desires&mdash;this frequently as a matter of speculation, for
+if the offspring, a mulatto, be a handsome female, from 800 to 1000
+dollars may be obtained for her in the Orleans market.<a name="FNanchor_11_11"></a><a href="#Footnote_11_11"><sup>[11]</sup></a> It is an
+occurrence of no uncommon nature to see the Christian father sell his own
+daughter, and the brother his own sister, by the same father. Slaves do
+not marry, but pair at discretion; and the more children they produce, the
+better for their masters.</p>
+
+<p>On the Lev&eacute;e at New Orleans, are constantly exhibited specimens of the
+white man's humanity, in the persons of runaway slaves. When such an
+unfortunate negro is retaken, a log is chained to one of his legs, and
+round his neck is placed an iron collar, from which project three sharp
+prongs more than a foot in length each.</p><a name="Page_196"></a>
+
+<p>The evils of this infernal system are beginning to re-act upon the
+Christians, who are latterly kept in a constant state of alarm, fearing
+the number and disposition of the blacks, which threaten at no far distant
+period to overwhelm the south with some dreadful calamity.<a name="FNanchor_12_12"></a><a href="#Footnote_12_12"><sup>[12]</sup></a> Three
+incendiary fires took place at Orleans, during the month I remained in
+that city, by which several thousand bales of cotton were consumed. The
+condition of the slaves on the sugar or rice plantations, is truly
+wretched. They are ill-fed, ill-clad, and worked in gangs under the
+superintendence of a driver, who is armed with a long whip, which he uses
+at discretion; and it is a fact, well known to persons who have visited
+slave countries, that punishments are more frequently inflicted to gratify
+the private pique or caprice of the driver, than for crime or neglect of
+duty.</p>
+<a name="Page_197"></a>
+<p>In the agricultural states, slave labour is found to be altogether
+unproductive, which causes this market to be inundated:&mdash;within the last
+two months, 5000 negros have been sold here. The state legislature has
+just passed a law, regulating the introduction of slaves, and commanding
+all free people of colour, who were not residents previous to 1825, to
+quit Louisiana in the space of six months. Georgia has enacted a law to
+the same effect, with the addition of making penal, <i>the teaching of
+people of colour to read or write</i>. The liberty of the press is by no
+means tolerated in the slave states, as both judges and juries will always
+decide according to the local laws, although totally at variance with the
+constitution. W.L. Garrison, of Baltimore, one of the editors of a
+publication entitled, &quot;The Genius of Universal Emancipation,&quot; is now
+suffering fine and imprisonment for an alleged libel, at the suit of a
+slavite; and a law has been passed by the legislature of Louisiana,
+suppressing <a name="Page_198"></a>the Orleans journal called &quot;The Liberal.&quot; This latter act is
+not only contrary to the constitution of the United States, but also in
+direct opposition to the constitution of Louisiana.<a name="FNanchor_13_13"></a><a href="#Footnote_13_13"><sup>[13]</sup></a></p>
+<a name="Page_199"></a>
+<p>The free states in their own defence have been obliged to prohibit people
+of colour settling within their boundaries. Where then can the unfortunate
+African find a <a name="Page_200"></a>retreat? He must not stay in this country, and he cannot
+go to Africa; and although <a name="Page_201"></a>the British government are encouraging the
+settlement of negros in the Canadas, yet latterly, neither the Canadians
+nor the Americans like that project. The most probable finale to this
+drama will be, that the Christians must at their own expense ship them to
+Liberia (for Hayti is inundated), and there throw them on barren shores to
+die of starvation, or to be massacred by the savages!</p>
+
+<p>Miss Wright lately passed through New Orleans with thirty negros which she
+had manumitted, and was then going to establish them at Hayti. These
+slaves had been purchased at reduced prices, from persons friendly to
+their emancipation, and were kept by Miss Wright until their labour,
+allowing them a fair remuneration, amounted to the prime outlay.</p>
+
+<p>Were it not for the danger that might be apprehended from the congregation
+of large bodies of negros in particular states or districts, their
+liberation would be attended with little inconvenience <i>to the public</i>,
+for their <a name="Page_202"></a>labour might be as effectually secured, and made quite as
+profitable, under a system of well-regulated emancipation. We need only
+refer to England for a case in point:&mdash;after the conquest and total
+subjugation of the people of that country by the ancestors of the
+nobility, the gallant Normans, the feudal system was introduced, and
+remained in full vigour for some centuries. But, as the country became
+more populous, and the attendance of the knights and barons in parliament
+became more frequent and necessary, we find villanage gradually fall into
+disrepute. The last laws regulating this species of slavery were passed in
+the reign of Henry VII; and towards the end of Elizabeth's reign, although
+the statutes remained unrepealed, as they do still, yet there were no
+persons in the state to whom the laws applied. It cannot be denied that
+the labour of the poor English is as effectually secured under the present
+arrangements, as it could possibly be under the system of villanage.</p><a name="Page_203"></a>
+
+<p>I look upon slaves as public securities; and I am of opinion, that a
+legislature's enacting laws for their emancipation, is as flagrant a piece
+of injustice as would be the cancelling of the public debt. Slave-holders
+are only share-holders; and philanthropists should never talk of
+liberating slaves, more than cancelling public securities, without being
+prepared to indemnify those persons who unfortunately have their capital
+invested in this species of property.</p>
+
+<p>As many varieties of countenance are to be found among blacks as among
+whites. There are Africans in this city who have really handsome features,
+and whose proportions are just, with strong and finely rounded limbs. On
+becoming more intimate with the general character of the Africans, I like
+it better: I find they steal, cheat, and hate their masters; and if they
+were to do otherwise I should think them unworthy of liberty&mdash;they justly
+consider whatever they take to be but a portion of their own. The policy
+is <a name="Page_204"></a>to keep them as much as possible in utter ignorance&mdash;that their
+indignation should therefore develope itself in the most degrading manner,
+is not surprising.</p>
+
+<p>There are two public schools established at New Orleans, which are
+supported out of the fund arising from five gaming-houses, they paying a
+tax of 25,000 dollars per annum. These schools are conducted on the
+Lancastrian system, each having a Principal and a Professor, and the
+studies are divided into daily sessions. The morning session is devoted to
+reading, spelling, arithmetic, and English grammar; commences at nine
+A.M., and closes at one P.M. The evening session commences at three, and
+ends at five o'clock; and is devoted to penmanship, geography, and the
+French language. This is the arrangement of the English primary school,
+which is kept in the Old Poydras House, Poydras-street, in the upper part
+of the city; and is called the Upper Primary School, to distinguish it
+from the French <a name="Page_205"></a>establishment, which is kept in the lower part of the
+city. The English school has an English principal, and a French professor;
+and the French school, a French principal and an English professor. Dr.
+Kinnicutt, the principal of the Upper Primary School, is a gentleman of
+considerable ability, and to his friendly politeness I am indebted for the
+above information.</p>
+
+<p>The ravages of the yellow fever in New Orleans are immense; but I am
+credibly informed that many deaths occur here from neglect after the fever
+has subsided, when the patient is in a totally debilitated condition,
+incapable of affording himself the slightest assistance. Orleans is
+generally crowded with strangers, who are most susceptible to the
+epidemic; and it is decidedly the interest of persons keeping hotels and
+boarding-houses that such guests should give up the ghost, for in that
+case their loose cash falls into the hands of the proprietor. I do not
+mean to insinuate that a knife is passed <a name="Page_206"></a>across the throat of the
+patient; but merely that it is the opinion of physicians, and some of the
+most respectable people of the city, that every <i>facility</i> is afforded
+strangers to die, and that in many cases they actually die of gross
+neglect.</p>
+
+<p>The wealthy merchants live well, keep handsome establishments, and good
+wines. The Sardanapalian motto, &quot;Laugh, sing, dance, and be merry,&quot; seems
+to be universally adopted in this &quot;City of the Plague.&quot; The planters' and
+merchants' villas immediately in the vicinity are extremely tasteful, and
+are surrounded by large parterres filled with plantain, banana, palm,
+orange, and rose trees. On the whole, were it not for its unhealthiness,
+Orleans would be a most desirable residence, and the largest city in the
+United States, as it is most decidedly the best circumstanced in a
+commercial point of view.</p>
+
+<p>The question of the purchase of Texas from the Mexican government has been
+widely <a name="Page_207"></a>mooted throughout the country, and in the slave districts it has
+many violent partizans. The acquisition of this immense tract of fertile
+country would give an undue preponderance to the slave states, and this
+circumstance alone has prevented its purchase from being universally
+approved of; for the grasping policy of the American system seems to
+animate both congress and legislatures in all their acts. The Americans
+commenced their operations in true Yankee style. The first settlement made
+was by a person named Austin, under a large grant from the Mexican
+government. Then &quot;pioneers,&quot; under the denomination of &quot;explorers,&quot; began
+gradually to take possession of the country, and carry on commercial
+negotiations without the assent of the government. This was followed by
+the public prints taking up the question, and setting forth the immense
+value of the country, and the consequent advantages that would arise to
+the United States from its acquisition. The settlers excited <a name="Page_208"></a>movements,
+and caused discontent and dissatisfaction among the legitimate owners; and
+at their instigation, insurrections of the Indians took place, which
+greatly embarrassed the government. At this stage of the affair, Mr.
+Poinsett, the American minister, commenced his diplomatic manoeuvres in
+the city of Mexico&mdash;fomenting disaffection, encouraging parties, and
+otherwise interfering in the internal concerns of the country. He appears,
+however, to have carried his intrigues beyond the bounds of discretion, as
+they were discovered; and he consequently became so obnoxious to the
+government and people of Mexico, that Jackson found it necessary to recall
+him, and send a Colonel Butler in his stead, commissioned to offer
+5,000,000 dollars for the province of Texas.</p>
+
+<p>Mr. Poinsett's object in acting as he did, was that he might embarrass the
+government, and take advantage of some favourable crisis to drive a
+profitable bargain; or that, during some convulsion that would be likely
+<a name="Page_209"></a>to lead to a change, the expiring executive would be glad to grasp at his
+offer, and thereby a claim would be established on the country, which the
+United States would not readily relinquish. The policy of the British
+government suffering the Mexican republic to be bullied out of this
+province would be very questionable indeed, as the North Americans command
+at present quite enough of the Gulf of Mexico, and their overweening
+inclination to acquire extent of territory would render their proximity to
+the West Indian Islands rather dangerous; however, it would be much more
+advantageous to have the Mexicans as neighbours than the people of the
+United States.</p>
+
+<p>The Mexican secretary of state, Don Lucas Alaman, in a very able and
+elaborate report made to Congress, sets forth the ambitious designs of the
+American government, and the proceedings of its agents with regard to this
+province. He also recommends salutary measures for the purpose of
+retaining <a name="Page_210"></a>possession and preventing further encroachments; which the
+Congress seems to have taken into serious consideration, as very important
+resolutions have been adopted. The Congress has decreed, that hereafter
+the Texas is to be governed as a colony; and, except by special commission
+of the Governor, the immigration of persons <i>from the United States</i>, is
+strictly forbidden. So much at present for the efforts of the Americans to
+get possession of the Texas; and if the British government be alive to the
+interests of the nation, they never shall;&mdash;for, entertaining the hostile
+feelings that they do towards the British empire, their closer connexion
+with the West Indies would certainly not be desirable.</p>
+
+<p>FOOTNOTES:</p>
+
+<a name="Footnote_9_9"></a><a href="#FNanchor_9_9">[9]</a><div class="note"><p> A &quot;big bug,&quot; is a great man, in the phraseology of the
+western country.</p></div>
+
+<a name="Footnote_10_10"></a><a href="#FNanchor_10_10">[10]</a><div class="note"><p> In the Indian tongue, <i>Meschacebe</i>&mdash;&quot;old father of waters.&quot;</p></div>
+
+<a name="Footnote_11_11"></a><a href="#FNanchor_11_11">[11]</a><div class="note"><p> I have been informed by a gentleman who has resided in the
+English West Indian Islands, that he has known instances there of highly
+educated white women, young and unmarried, making black mothers suckle
+puppy lap-dogs for them.</p></div>
+
+<a name="Footnote_12_12"></a><a href="#FNanchor_12_12">[12]</a><div class="note"><p> Previous to my leaving America, a most extensive and
+well-organised conspiracy was discovered at Charleston, and several of the
+conspirators were executed. The whole black population of that town were
+to have risen on a certain day, and put their oppressors to death.</p></div>
+
+<a name="Footnote_13_13"></a><a href="#FNanchor_13_13">[13]</a><div class="note">
+<div class="blkquot"><p>Extract from &quot;The Liberal&quot; of 19th March, 1830:&mdash;
+</p><p>
+    &quot;Constitution des Etats unis.
+</p><p>
+    &quot;Art. 1 er. des Amendments.
+</p><p>
+    &quot;Le Congr&eacute;s n'aura pas le droit de faire aucune loi pour abreger
+    la libert&eacute; de la parole ou de la presse, &amp;c.
+</p><p>
+    &quot;Constitution de L'Etat de la Louisiane.
+</p><p>
+    &quot;Art. 6, v. 21.
+</p><p>
+    &quot;La presse sera libre &agrave; tous ceux qui entreprendront d'examiner les
+    proc&eacute;dures de la legislature ou aucune branche du gouvernement; et
+    aucune loi sera jamais faite pour abreger ses droits, &amp;c.
+</p><p>
+    &quot;Loi faite par la legislature de l'Etat de la Louisiane.
+</p><p>
+    &quot;Acte pour punir les crime y mention&eacute;s et pour d'autre objets.
+</p><p>
+    &quot;Sect. 1 &eacute;re. Il et d&eacute;cr&eacute;t&eacute;, &amp;c. Que quiconque &eacute;crira, imprimera,
+    publiera, ou r&eacute;pandra toute piece ayant une tendance &agrave; produire du
+    mecontentement parmi la population de couleur libre, ou de
+    l'insubordination parmi les esclaves de cet Etat, sera sur
+    conviction du fait, pardevant toute cour de juridiction competante
+    condamn&eacute; &agrave; l'emprisonnement aux travaux forc&eacute;s pour la vie ou &agrave; la
+    peine de mort, &agrave; la discretion de la cour!!!!
+</p><p>
+    &quot;Sec. 2. Il est de plus d&eacute;cr&eacute;t&eacute;, que quiconque se servira
+    d'expressions dans un discours public prononc&eacute; au barreau, au bane
+    des Judges, au Th&eacute;&acirc;tre, en chaire, ou dans tout lieu quelconque;
+    quicconque se servira d'expressions dans des conversations ou des
+    discours particulars, ou fera usage des signes ou fera des actions
+    ayant une tendance &agrave; produire du m&eacute;contentement parmi la
+    population de couleur libre ou &agrave; exciter a l'insubordination parmi
+    les esclaves de cet Etat; quiconque donnera sciemment la main &agrave;
+    apporter dans cet Etat aucun papier, brochure ou livre ayant la
+    meme tendance que dessus, sera, sur conviction, pardevant toute
+    cour de juridiction competante, condamn&eacute;; &agrave; l'emprisonnement aux
+    travaux forc&eacute;s pour un terme qui ne sera pas moindre de trois ans
+    et qui n'exc&eacute;dera pas vingt un ans, ou a la peiue de mort &agrave; la
+    discretion de la cour!!!!
+</p><p>
+    &quot;Sec. 3. Il est de plus d&eacute;cr&eacute;t&eacute;, que seront consider&eacute;es comme
+    illegales toute reunions de negres; mulatres ou autres personnes
+    de couleur libre dans le temples, les ecoles ou autres lieux pour
+    y apprendre &agrave; lire ou &agrave; ecrire: et les personnes qui se r&eacute;uniront
+    ainsi; sur conviction du fait, pardevant toute cour de juridiction
+    competente, seront emprisonne&eacute;s pour un terme qui ne sera pas
+    moindre d'un mois et qui n'exc&eacute;dera pas douze mois, &agrave; la
+    discr&eacute;tion!!!!
+</p><p>
+    &quot;Sec. 4. Il est de plus d&eacute;cr&eacute;t&eacute;, que toute personne dans cet &eacute;tat
+    qui enseignera, permettra qu'on enseigne ou lera enseigner &agrave; lire
+    ou &agrave; ecrire &agrave; un esclave quelconque, sera, sur conviction du fait,
+    pardevant toute cour de juridiction competante, condamn&eacute; &agrave; un
+    imprisonnement qui ne sera pas moindre d'un mois et n'exc&eacute;dera pas
+    douze mois!!!!&quot;
+</p>
+<hr style="width: 45%;">
+<p>
+    From the remarks of the same journal of the 23rd March, it would
+    appear that the third and fourth sections of this most enlightened
+    and Christian act have been rejected, as being &quot;<i>too bad</i>.&quot;
+</p><p>
+    &quot;Nous avons lu la publication officielle de l'acte intitul&eacute;: 'acte
+    pour emp&ecirc;cher l'introduction des personnes de couleur libres dans
+    cet Etat, et pour d'autres objets.' Il est trop long pour que nous
+    puissons le publier, nous en donnons l'extrait suivant.
+</p><p>
+    &quot;1. Toute personne de couleur libre, qui sera rentre&eacute; dans cet
+    &eacute;tat depuis 1825, sera forc&eacute;e d'en sortir.
+</p><p>
+    &quot;2. Aucune personne, de couleur libre, ne pourra &agrave; l'avenir
+    s'introduire dans cet &eacute;tat sous aucun pretexte quelconque.
+</p><p>
+    &quot;3. Le blanc qui aura fait circuler des &eacute;crits tendant &agrave; troubler
+    le repos public, ou censurant les actes de la legislature
+    concernant les esclaves ou les personnes de couleur libres, sera
+    puni rigoureusement.
+</p><p>
+    &quot;4. L'emancipation des esclaves est soumise &agrave; quantit&eacute; de
+    formalit&eacute;s,
+</p><p>
+    &quot;Tous les noirs, grieffes et mulatres, au premier degr&eacute;, libres,
+    sont oblig&eacute;s de se faire enregistrer au bureau du maire, &agrave; Nelle.
+    Orleans, ou chez les judges de paroisse dans les autres parties de
+    l'&eacute;tat.
+</p><p>
+    &quot;Nous voyons avec joie, que la partie du bill tendant &agrave; emp&ecirc;cher
+    l'instruction des personnes de couleur, &agrave; &eacute;t&eacute; rejet&eacute;.&quot;</p></div>
+</div>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;">
+<a name="CHAPTER_VIII"></a><h2><a name="Page_211"></a>CHAPTER VIII</h2>
+<br>
+
+<p>Having spent a month in Orleans and the neighbouring plantations, I took
+my leave and departed for Louisville. The steam-boat in which I ascended
+the river was of the largest description, and had then on board between
+fifty and sixty cabin passengers, and nearly four hundred deck passengers.
+The former paid thirty dollars, and the latter I believe six, on this
+occasion. The deckers were provided only with an unfurnished berth. The
+steam-boats, on their passage up and down the rivers, stop at nearly all
+the towns of importance, both for the purpose of landing and receiving
+<a name="Page_212"></a>freight, which enabled me to visit most of the settlements along the
+banks.</p>
+
+<p>For several hundred miles from New Orleans, the trees, particularly those
+in the cypress swamps, are covered with tellandsea, or Spanish moss, which
+hangs down from the branches so thickly, as to give a most gloomy aspect
+to the forest. It is found to be a good substitute for horse hair, and is
+universally used by upholsterers for stuffing mattresses, cushions, &amp;c.
+The process of preparing it is very simple: being taken from the trees, it
+is placed in water for a few days, until the outer pellicle has rotted; it
+is then dried, when a long fibre resembling horse hair is obtained.</p>
+
+<p>Natchez, in the state of Mississippi, is about 300 miles above Orleans,
+and is the largest and wealthiest town on the river, from that city up to
+St. Louis. It stands on bluffs, perhaps 300 feet above the water at
+ordinary periods. It contains nearly 4000 inhabitants, and is decidedly
+the prettiest <a name="Page_213"></a>town for its dimensions in the United States. Natchez,
+although upwards of 400 miles from the sea, is considered a port; and a
+grant of 1500 dollars was made by congress for the purpose of erecting a
+light-house; the building has been raised, and stands there, a monument of
+useless expenditure. There are a number of &quot;groggeries,&quot; stores, and other
+habitations, at the base of the bluffs, for the accommodation of
+flat-boatmen, which form a distinct town, and the place is called, in
+contradistinction to the city above, Natchez-under-the-hill. Swarms of
+unfortunate females, of every shade of colour, may be seen here sporting
+with the river navigators, and this little spot presents one continued
+scene of gaming, swearing, and rioting, from morning till night.</p>
+
+<p>The ravages of the yellow fever in this town are always greater in
+proportion to the population than at New Orleans; and it is a remarkable
+fact, that frequently when the fever is raging with violence in the city
+on <a name="Page_214"></a>the hill, the inhabitants below are entirely free from it. In addition
+to the exhalations from the exposed part of the river's bed, there are
+others of a still more pestilential character, which arise from stagnant
+pools at the foot of the hill. The miasmata appear to ascend until they
+reach the level of the town above, where the atmosphere being less dense,
+and perhaps precisely of their own specific gravity, they float, and
+commingle with it.</p>
+
+<p>The country from Baton-rouge to Vicksburg, on the walnut hills, is almost
+entirely devoted to the cultivation of cotton, the soil and climate being
+found particularly congenial to the growth of that plant. The great trade
+of Natchez is in this article. The investment of capital in the
+cultivation of cotton is extremely profitable, and a plantation
+judiciously managed seldom fails of producing an income, in a few years,
+amounting to the original outlay. Each slave is estimated to produce from
+250 to 300 dollars <a name="Page_215"></a>per annum; but of course from this are to be deducted
+the <i>wear and tear</i> of the slave, and the casualties incident to human
+life. On sugar plantations the profit is much more on each individual; but
+the risk is greater, and the deaths are generally calculated at one-third
+of the gang in ten years: this is the cause why slaves <i>on sugar
+plantations</i> are so miserably fed and clad, for their being rendered less
+wretched would not make them less susceptible to the epidemic. Each acre
+of well-cultivated land produces from one and a half to two bales of
+cotton, and even the first year the produce will cover the expenses. A
+planter may commence with 10,000 or 12,000 dollars, and calculate on
+certain success; but with less capital, he must struggle hard to attain
+the desired object. A sugar plantation cannot be properly conducted with
+less than 25,000 or 30,000 dollars, and the first year produces no return.
+The cotton begins to ripen in the month of October&mdash;the buds open, and the
+flowers appear. A slave can <a name="Page_216"></a>gather from 100 to 150 lbs. a day. Rice and
+tobacco are also grown in the neighbourhood of the cotton lands, but of
+course the produce is inferior to that of the West Indies.</p>
+
+<p>Occasionally, along the banks of the Mississippi, you see here and there
+the solitary habitation of a wood-cutter. Immense piles of wood are placed
+on the edge of the bank, for the supply of steam-boats, and perhaps a
+small corn patch may be close to the house; this however is not commonly
+the case, as the inhabitants depend on flat-boats for provisions. The
+dwelling is the rudest kind of log-house, and the outside is sometimes
+decorated with the skins of deer, bears, and other animals, hung up to
+dry. Those people are commonly afflicted with fever and ague; and I have
+seen many, particularly females, who had immense swellings or
+protuberances on their stomachs, which they denominate &quot;ague-cakes.&quot; The
+Mississippi wood-cutters scrape together &quot;considerable of dollars,&quot; but
+they pay dearly for it in health, <a name="Page_217"></a>and are totally cut off from the
+frequent frolics, political discussions, and elections; which last,
+especially, are a great source of amusement to the Americans, and tend to
+keep up that spirit of patriotism and nationality for which they are so
+distinguished. The excitement produced by these elections prevents the
+people falling into that ale-drinking stupidity, which characterizes the
+low English.</p>
+
+<p>The &quot;freshets&quot; in the Mississippi are always accompanied with an immense
+quantity of &quot;drift-wood,&quot; which is swept away from the banks of the
+Missouri and Ohio; and the navigation is never totally devoid of danger,
+from the quantity of trees which settle down on the bottom of the river.
+Those trees which stand perpendicularly in the river, are called
+&quot;planters;&quot; those which take hold by the roots, but lie obliquely with the
+current, yielding to its pressure, appearing and disappearing alternately,
+are termed &quot;sawyers;&quot; and those which lie immovably fixed, in the <a name="Page_218"></a>same
+position as the &quot;sawyers,&quot; are denominated &quot;snags.&quot; Many boats have been
+stove in by &quot;snags&quot; and &quot;sawyers,&quot; and sunk with all the passengers. At
+present there is a snag steam-boat stationed on the Mississippi, which has
+almost entirely cleared it of these obstructions. This boat consists of
+two hulks, with solid beams of timber uniting the bows. It has a most
+powerful engine; and when the crew discover a snag, which always lies with
+the stream, and is known by the ripple on the water, they run down below
+it for some distance in order to gather head-way&mdash;the boat is then run at
+it full tilt, and seldom fails of breaking off the projecting branch close
+to the trunk.</p>
+
+<p>We arrived, a fine morning about nine o'clock, at Memphis in Tennessee,
+and lay-to to put out freight. We had just sat down, and were regaling
+ourselves with a substantial breakfast, when one of the boilers burst,
+with an explosion that resembled the report of a cannon. The change <a name="Page_219"></a>was
+sudden and terrific. Between fifty and sixty persons were killed and
+wounded. The scene was the most horrifying that can be imagined&mdash;the dead
+were shattered to pieces, covering the decks with blood; and the dying
+suffered the most excruciating tortures, being scalded from head to foot.
+Many died within the hour; whilst others lingered until evening, shrieking
+in the most piteous manner. The persons assembled on shore displayed the
+most disgusting want of sympathy; and most of the gentlemen passengers
+took care to secure their luggage before rendering any assistance to the
+unfortunates. A medical gentleman, who happened to be on board (a Doctor
+Otis, I think, from Carolina), was an exception. This gentleman&mdash;and
+gentleman he really was, in every respect&mdash;attended with the most
+unremitting care on all the wounded without distinction. A collection was
+made by the cabin passengers, for the surviving sufferers. The wretch who
+furnished oil on the occasion, <a name="Page_220"></a>hearing of the collection, had the
+conscience to make a charge of sixty dollars, when the quantity furnished
+could not possibly have amounted to a third of that sum.</p>
+
+<p>The boiler recoiled, cutting away part of the bow, and the explosion blew
+up the pilot's deck, which rendered the vessel totally unfit for service.
+I remained three days at Memphis, and visited the neighbouring farms and
+plantations. Several parties of Chickesaw Indians were here, trading their
+deer and other skins with the townspeople. This tribe has a reservation
+about fifty miles back, and pursues agriculture to a considerable extent.
+After the massacre and extermination of the Natchez Indians, by the
+Christians of Louisiana, the few survivors received an asylum from the
+Chickesaws; who, notwithstanding the heavy vengeance with which they were
+threatened, could never be induced to give up the few unhappy &quot;children of
+the Sun&quot; who confided in their honour and generosity: the fugitives
+amalgamated with their protectors, and the Natchez are extinct.</p><a name="Page_221"></a>
+
+<p>Some of the Indians here assembled, indulged immoderately in the use of
+ardent spirits, with which they were copiously supplied by the white
+people. During these drinking fits, there is always one at least of the
+party who remains sober, in order to secure the knives, &amp;c. Hence the
+Americans derive the cant phrase of &quot;doing the sober Indian,&quot; which they
+apply to any one of a company who will not <i>drink fairly</i>. One of the
+Indians had a pony which he wished to sell, having occasion for some
+articles, and his skins not bringing him as much as he had anticipated. A
+townsman demanded the price. The Indian put up both his hands, intimating
+that he would take ten dollars. The pony was worth double the sum; but the
+spirit of barter would not permit the white man to purchase without
+reducing the price: he offered the Indian five dollars. The Indian was
+evidently indignant, but only gave a nod of dissent. After some
+hesitation, the buyer, finding that he could <a name="Page_222"></a>not reduce the price, said
+he would give the ten dollars. The Indian then held up his fingers, and
+counted fifteen. The buyer demurred at the advance; but the Indian was
+inexorable, and at length intimated that he would not trade at all. Such
+is the character of the Aborigines&mdash;they never calculate on <i>your</i>
+necessities, but only on their own; and when they are in want of money,
+demand the lowest possible price for the article they may wish to
+sell&mdash;but if they see you want to take further advantage of them, they
+invariably raise the price or refuse to traffic.</p>
+
+<p>Hunting in Tennessee is commonly practised on horseback, with dogs. When
+the party comes upon a deer-track, it separates, and hunters are posted,
+at intervals of about a furlong, on the path which the deer when started
+is calculated to take. Two or three persons then set forward with the
+dogs, always coming up against the wind, and start the deer, when the
+sentinels at the different points fire at him as he passes, until <a name="Page_223"></a>he is
+brought down. Another mode is to hunt by torch-light, without dogs. In
+this case, slaves carry torches before the party; the light of which so
+amazes the deer, that he stands gazing in the brushwood. The glare of his
+eyes is always sufficient to direct the attention of the rifleman, who
+levels his piece at the space between them, and seldom fails of hitting
+him fairly in the head.</p>
+
+<p>A boat at length arrived from New Orleans, bound for Nashville in
+Tennessee, and I secured a passage to Smithland, at the mouth of the
+Cumberland river, where I had a double opportunity of getting to
+Louisville, as boats from St. Louis, as well as those from Orleans, stop
+at that point. The day following my arrival a boat came up, and I
+proceeded to Louisville. On board, whilst I was amusing myself forward, I
+was accosted by a deck-passenger, whom I recollected to have seen at
+Harmony. He told me, amongst other things, that a Mr. O&mdash;&mdash;, who resided
+there, had been elected captain, and added <a name="Page_224"></a>that he was &quot;a considerable
+clever fellow,&quot; and the best captain they ever had. I inquired what
+peculiar qualification in their new officer led him to that conclusion.
+Expecting to hear of his superior knowledge in military tactics, I was
+astounded when he seriously informed me, in answer, that on a late
+occasion (I believe it was the anniversary of the birth of Washington),
+after parade, he ordered them into a &quot;groggery,&quot; &quot;not to take a <i>little</i>
+of something to drink, but by J&mdash;s to drink as much as they had a mind
+to.&quot; It must be observed, that this individual I had seen but once, in the
+streets of Harmony, and then he was in a state of inebriation. Another
+anecdote, of a similar character, was related to me by an Englishman
+relative to his own election to the post of brigadier-general. The
+candidate opposed to him had served in the late war, and in his address to
+the electors boasted not a little of the circumstance, and concluded by
+stating that he was &quot;ready to lead them to a can<a name="Page_225"></a>non's mouth when
+necessary.&quot; This my friend the General thought a poser; but, however, he
+determined on trying what virtue there was&mdash;not in stones, like the &quot;old
+man&quot; with the &quot;young saucebox,&quot;&mdash;but in a much more potent article,
+whisky; so, after having stated that although he had not served, yet he
+was as ready to serve against &quot;the hired assassins of England&quot;&mdash;this is
+the term by which the Americans designate our troops&mdash;as his opponent, he
+concluded by saying, &quot;Boys, Mr. &mdash;&mdash; has told you that he is ready to lead
+you to a cannon's mouth&mdash;now <i>I</i> don't wish you any such misfortune as
+getting the contents of a cannon in your bowels, but if necessary,
+perhaps, I'd lead you as far as he would; however, men, the short and the
+long of it is, instead of leading you to the mouth of a cannon, I'll lead
+you this instant to the mouth of a barrel of whisky.&quot; This was enough&mdash;the
+electors shouted, roared, laughed, and drank&mdash;and elected my friend
+Brigadier-<a name="Page_226"></a>general. Brigadier-general! what must this man's relatives in
+England think, when they hear that he is a Brigadier-general in the
+American army? Yet he is a very respectable man (an auctioneer), and much
+superior to many west country Generals. The fact is, a dollar's-worth of
+whisky and a little Irish wit would go as far in electioneering as five
+pounds would go in England; and were it not for the protection afforded by
+the ballot, the Americans would be fully as corrupt, and would exercise
+the franchise as little in accordance with the public interest, as the
+English and Irish who enjoy the freedom of corporate towns. Some aspirants
+to office in the New England states, about the time of the last
+presidential election, tried the system of bribing, and obtained promises
+fully sufficient to insure their returns; but on counting the votes, it
+was found that more than one half the persons who were paid to vote <i>for</i>,
+must have voted <i>against</i> the person who had bribed them. It is needless
+<a name="Page_227"></a>to say this experiment was not repeated. The Americans thought it bad
+enough to take the bribe, but justly concluded that it would be a double
+crime to adhere to the agreement. The bravo who takes a purse to commit an
+assassination, and does not do that for which he has been paid; is an
+angel, when compared to the villain who performs his contract.</p>
+
+<p>The usual time occupied in a voyage from Orleans to Louisville is from ten
+to twelve days, and boats have performed it in the surprisingly short
+space of eight days. The spur that commerce has received from the
+introduction of steam-boats on the western waters, can only be appreciated
+by comparing the former means of communication with the present. Previous
+to 1812, the navigation of the Upper Ohio was carried on by means of about
+150 small barges, averaging between thirty and forty tons burden, and the
+time consumed in ascending from the Falls to Pittsburg was a full month.
+On the<a name="Page_228"></a> Lower Ohio and the Mississippi there were about twenty barges,
+which averaged 100 tons burden, and more than three months was occupied in
+ascending from Orleans to Louisville with West India produce, the crew
+being obliged to poll or <i>cordelle</i> the whole distance. Seldom more than
+one voyage to Orleans and back was made within the year. In 1817, a
+steam-boat arrived at Louisville from New Orleans in twenty-five days, and
+a public dinner and other rejoicings celebrated the event. From that
+period until 1827, the time consumed in this voyage gradually diminished,
+and in that year a boat from New Orleans entered the port of Louisville in
+eight days and two hours. There are at present on the waters of the Ohio
+and Mississippi, 323 boats, the aggregate burden of which is 56,000 tons,
+the greater proportion measuring from 250 to 500 tons.</p>
+
+<p>The people of this country cannot properly be compared with the
+inhabitants of England; their institutions are different, and <a name="Page_229"></a>their
+habits and manners must necessarily be dissimilar. Indeed, they are as
+unlike the English as any people can well be, and many of them with whom I
+conversed, denied flatly the descent. They contend that they are a
+compound of the best blood of Europe, and that the language of England
+only prevailed because, <i>originally</i>, the majority of settlers were
+English; but that since the revolution, the whole number of emigrants from
+the other countries of Europe greatly exceeded the proportion from England
+and Ireland. Their temperament, organisation, and independent spirit,
+appear to bear them out in this assertion.</p>
+
+<p>In England we have all the grades and conditions of society that are to be
+found in America, with the addition of two others, the highest and the
+lowest classes. There is no extensive class here equivalent to the English
+or Irish labourer; neither is there any class whose manners are stamped
+with that high polish and urbanity which characterises the <a name="Page_230"></a>aristocracy of
+England. The term <i>gentleman</i> is used here in a very different sense from
+that in which it is applied in Europe&mdash;it means simply, well-behaved
+citizen. All classes of society claim it&mdash;from the purveyor of old bones,
+up to the planter; and I have myself heard a bar-keeper in a tavern and a
+stage driver, whilst quarrelling, seriously accuse each other of being &quot;no
+gentleman.&quot; The only class who live on the labour of others, and without
+their own personal exertions, are the planters in the south. There are
+certainly many persons who derive very considerable revenues from houses;
+but they must be very few, if any, who have ample incomes from land, and
+this only in the immediate vicinity of the largest and oldest cities.</p>
+
+<p>English novels have very extensive circulation here, which certainly is of
+no service to the country, as it induces the wives and daughters of
+American gentlemen (alias, shopkeepers) to ape gentility. In Louisville,<a name="Page_231"></a>
+Cincinnati, and all the other towns of the west, the women have
+established circles of society. You will frequently be amused by seeing a
+lady, the wife of a dry-goods store-keeper, look most contemptuously at
+the mention of another's name, whose husband pursues precisely the same
+occupation, but on a less extensive scale, and observe, that &quot;she only
+belongs to the third circle of society.&quot; This species of embryo
+aristocracy&mdash;or as Socrates would, call it, Plutocracy&mdash;is based on wealth
+alone, and is decidedly the most contemptible of any. There are,
+notwithstanding, very many well-bred, if not highly polished, women in the
+country; and on the whole, the manners of the women are much more
+agreeable than those of the men.</p>
+
+<p>Early in the summer I proceeded to Maysville, in Kentucky, which lies
+about 220 miles above the Falls. Here having to visit a gentlemen in the
+interior, I hired a chaise, for which I paid about two shillings British
+per mile.</p><a name="Page_232"></a>
+
+<p>A great deal of excitement was just then produced among the inhabitants of
+Maysville by the president's having put his veto on the bill, passed by
+congress, granting loans to the &quot;Maysville and Lexington road,&quot; and the
+&quot;Louisville canal&quot; companies. The Kentuckians were in high dudgeon, and
+denounced Jackson as an enemy to internal improvement, and to the western
+states. It would appear that the friends of Adams and Clay, had determined
+to place Jackson in a dilemma which would involve his character, either as
+a friend to internal improvement or an enemy to lavish expenditure.
+Accordingly, they passed an unusual number of bills, appropriating money
+to the clearing of creeks, building of bridges, and making of canals and
+turnpike roads; the amount of which, instead of leaving a surplus of ten
+millions to the liquidation of the national debt, would not only have
+totally exhausted the treasury, but have actually exceeded by 20,000,000
+dollars the revenue of <a name="Page_233"></a>the current year. This manoeuvre was timely
+discovered by the administration, and the president consequently refused
+to put his signature to those bills, amongst a number of others. He
+refused on two grounds. The first was, that although it had been the
+practice of congress to grant sums of money for the purpose of making
+roads and perfecting other works, which only benefited one or two states;
+yet that such practice was not sanctioned by the constitution&mdash;the federal
+legislature having no power to act but with reference to the general
+interests of the states. The second was, that the road in question was
+local in the most limited sense, commencing at the Ohio river, and running
+back sixty miles to an interior town, and consequently, the grant in
+question came within neither the constitutional powers nor practice of
+congress.</p>
+
+<p>The president recommends that the surplus revenue, after the debt shall
+have been paid off, should be portioned out to the different states, in
+proportion to their ratio of represen<a name="Page_234"></a>tation; which appears to be
+judicious, as the question of congressional power to appropriate money to
+road-making, &amp;c., although of a general character, involves also the right
+of jurisdiction; which congress clearly has not, except where the defence
+of the country, or other paramount interests, are concerned.</p>
+
+<p>The national debt will be totally extinguished in four years, when this
+country will present a curious spectacle for the serious consideration of
+European nations. During the space of fifty-six years, two successful wars
+have been carried on&mdash;one for the establishment, and the other for the
+maintenance of national independence, and a large amount of public works
+and improvements has been effected; yet, after the expiration of four
+years from this time, there will not only be no public debt, but the
+revenue arising from protecting tariff duties alone will amount to more
+than the expenditure by upwards of 10,000,000 dollars.</p><a name="Page_235"></a>
+
+<p>A brief abstract from the treasury report on the finances of the United
+States, up to the 1st January, 1831, may not be uninteresting.</p>
+
+<pre>
+                                             Dollars. Cts.
+Balance in the treasury, 1st January,
+1828                                         6,668,286 10
+
+Receipts of the year 1828                   24,789,463 61
+                                            _____________
+Total                                       31,457,749 71
+Expenditure for the year 1828               25,485,313 90
+                                            _____________
+Leaving a balance in the treasury, 1st
+January, 1829, of                            5,972,435 81
+
+Receipts from all sources during the
+year 1829                                   24,827,627 38
+
+Expenditures for the same year, including
+3,686,542 dol. 93 ct. on account of
+the public debt, and 9,033 dol. 38 ct.
+for awards under the first article of the
+treaty of Ghent                             25,044,358 40
+
+Balance in the treasury on 1st January,
+1830                                         5,755,704 79
+
+The receipts from all sources during the
+year 1830 were                              24,844,116 51
+
+                    viz.
+
+Customs                                     21,922,391 39
+
+Lands                                        2,329,356 14
+
+Dividends on bank stock                        490,000 00
+
+Incidental receipts                            102,368 98
+                                            _____________<a name="Page_236"></a>
+
+The expenditures for the same year were     24,585,281 55
+
+                    viz.
+
+Civil list, foreign intercourse,
+and miscellaneous                            3,237,416 04
+
+Military service, including
+fortifications, ordnance,
+Indian affairs,
+pensions, arming the
+militia, and internal
+improvements                                 6,752,688 66
+
+Naval service, including
+sums appropriated
+to the gradual
+improvement of the
+navy<a name="FNanchor_14_14"></a><a href="#Footnote_14_14">[&#8321;&#8324;]</a>                                     3,239,428 63
+
+Public debt                                 11,355,748 22
+                                            _____________
+
+Leaving a balance in the treasury
+on the 1st of January, 1831, of              6,014,539 75
+
+<a name="Page_237"></a>
+<i>Public Debt</i>.
+                                             Dollars. Cts.
+The payments made on account of the
+Public Debt, during the first three
+quarters of the year 1831, amounted to      9,883,479  46
+
+It was estimated that the payments to
+be made in the fourth quarter of the
+same year, would amount to                  6,205,810  21
+                                           ______________
+Making the whole amount of disbursments
+on account of the Debt in 1831             16,089,289  67
+
+
+THE  PUBLIC  DEBT,  ON  THE  SECOND  OF JANUARY, 1832, WILL
+BE AS FOLLOWS, VIZ.;&mdash;
+
+1. <i>Funded Debt</i>.
+                                             Dollars. Cts.
+Three per cents, per act
+of the 4th of August,
+1790, redeemable at the
+pleasure of government                      13,296,626 21
+
+Five per cents, per act of
+the 3rd of March, 1821,
+redeemable after the 1st
+January, 1823                                4,735,296 30
+<a name="Page_238"></a>
+Five per cents, (exchanged),
+per act of 20th of
+April, 1823; one third
+redeemable annually
+after 31st of December,
+1830, 1831 and 1832                            56,704  77
+
+Four and half per cents.
+per act of the 24th of
+May, 1824, redeemable
+after 1st of January,
+1832                                        1,739,524  01
+
+Four and half per cents.
+(exchanged), per act of
+the 26th of May, 1824;
+one half redeemable
+after the 31st day of
+December, 1832                              4,454,727  95
+                                           ______________
+                                           24,282,879  24
+
+2. <i>Unfunded Debt</i>.
+
+Registered Debt, being
+claims registered prior
+to the year 1793, for
+services and supplies
+during the revolutionary war                   27,919  85
+
+Treasury notes                                  7,116  00
+
+Mississippi stock                               4,320  09
+                                           ______________
+                                               39,355  94
+
+Making the whole amount of the Public
+Debt of the United States                  24,322,235  18
+                                           ______________
+
+Which is, allowing 480 cents to the
+sovereign, in sterling money            £5,067,132 6<i>s</i>. 7<i>d</i>.</pre>
+
+<p><a name="Page_239"></a>General Jackson has proposed another source of national revenue, in the
+establishment of a bank; the profits of which, instead of going into the
+pockets of stock-holders as at present, should be placed to the credit of
+the nation. If an establishment of this nature could be formed, without
+involving higher interests than the mere pecuniary concerns of the
+country, no doubt it would be most desirable. But how a <i>government</i> bank
+could be so formed as that it should not throw immense and dangerous
+influence into the hands of the executive, appears difficult to determine.
+If it be at all connected with the government, the executive must exercise
+an extensive authority over its affairs; and in that case, the mercantile
+portion of the community would lie completely under the surveillance of
+the president, who might at pleasure exercise this immense patronage to
+forward private political designs. No doubt there have been abuses to a
+considerable extent practised by the present bank <a name="Page_240"></a>of the United States in
+the exercise of its functions; but how those abuses are likely to be
+remedied by Jackson's plan, does not appear. For, let the directors be
+appointed by government, or elected by congress, they must still exercise
+discretional power; and they are quite as likely to exercise it
+unwarrantably as those who have a direct interest in the prosperity of the
+concern. I totally disapprove of the attempt to correct the abuses of one
+monopoly by the establishment of another in its stead, of a still more
+dangerous character; and I am inclined to think that if two banks were
+chartered instead of one, each having ample capital to insure public
+confidence, competition alone would furnish a sufficient motive to induce
+them to act with justice and liberality towards the public.</p>
+
+<p>In 1766, Kentucky was first explored, by John Finlay, an Indian trader,
+Colonel Daniel Boon, and others. They again visited it in 1769, when the
+whole party, excepting Boon, were slain by the Indians&mdash;he <a name="Page_241"></a>escaped, and
+reached North Carolina, where he then resided. Accompanied by about forty
+expert hunters, comprised in five families, in the year 1775, he set
+forward to make a settlement in the country. They erected a fort on the
+banks of the Kentucky river, and being joined by several other
+adventurers, they finally succeeded. The Kentuckians tell of many a bloody
+battle fought by these pioneers, and boast that their country has been
+gained, every inch, by conquest.</p>
+
+<p>The climate of Kentucky is favourable to the growth of hemp, flax,
+tobacco, and all kinds of grain. The greater portion of the soil is rich
+loam, black, or mixed with reddish earth, generally to the depth of five
+or six feet, on a limestone bottom. The produce of corn is about sixty
+bushels on an average per acre, and of wheat about thirty-five; cotton is
+partially cultivated. The scenery is varied, and the country well
+watered.</p><a name="Page_242"></a>
+
+<p>The Kentuckians all carry large pocket knives, which they never fail to
+use in a scuffle; and you may see a gentleman seated at the tavern door,
+balanced on two legs of a chair, picking his teeth with a knife, the blade
+of which is full six inches long, or cutting the benches, posts, or any
+thing else that may lie within his reach. Notwithstanding this, the
+Kentuckians are by no means more quarrelsome than any other people of the
+western states; and they are vastly less so than the people of Ireland.
+But when they do commence hostilities, they fight with great bitterness,
+as do most Americans, biting, gouging, and cutting unrelentingly.</p>
+
+<p>I never went into a court-house in the west <i>in summer</i>, without observing
+that the judges and lawyers had their feet invariably placed upon the
+desks before them, and raised much higher than their heads. This, however,
+is only in the western country; for in the courts at Orleans, New York,
+and<a name="Page_243"></a> Philadelphia, the greatest order and regularity is observed. I had
+been told that the judges often slept upon the bench; but I must confess,
+that although I have entered court-houses at all seasons during the space
+of fifteen months, I never saw an instance of it. I have frequently
+remonstrated with the Americans, on the total absence of forms and
+ceremonies in their courts of justice, and was commonly answered by &quot;Yes,
+that may be quite necessary in England, in order to overawe a parcel of
+ignorant creatures, who have no share in making the laws; but with us, a
+man's a man, whether he have a silk gown on him or not; and I guess he can
+decide quite as well without a big wig as with one. You see, we have done
+with wiggery of all kinds; and if one of our judges were to wear such an
+appendage, he'd be taken for a merry-andrew, and the court would become a
+kind of show-box&mdash;instead of such arrangements producing with us
+solemnity, they would produce nothing but <a name="Page_244"></a>laughter, and the greatest
+possible irregularity.&quot;</p>
+
+<p>I was present at an election in the interior of the state. The office was
+that of representative in the state legislature, and the candidates were a
+hatter and a saddler; the former was also a militia major, and a Methodist
+preacher, of the Percival and Gordon school, who eschewed the devil and
+all the backsliding abominations of the flesh, as in duty bound. Sundry
+&quot;stump orations&quot; were delivered on the occasion, for the enlightenment of
+the electors; and towards the close of the proceedings, by way of an
+appropriate finale, the aforesaid triune-citizen and another gentleman,
+had a gouging scrape on the hustings. The major in this contest proved
+himself to be a true Kentuckian; that is, half a horse, and half an
+alligator; which contributed not a little to ensure his return. After the
+election, I was conversing with one of the most violent opponents of the
+successful candidate, and remarked to <a name="Page_245"></a>him, that I supposed he would rally
+his forces at the next election to put out the major: he replied, &quot;I can't
+tell that!&quot; I said, &quot;why? will you not oppose him?&quot; &quot;Oh!&quot; he says, &quot;for
+that matter, he may do his duty pretty well.&quot; &quot;And do you mean to say,&quot;
+continued I, &quot;that if he should do so, you will give him no opposition?&quot;
+He looked at me, as if he did not clearly comprehend, and said, &quot;Why, I
+guess not.&quot;</p>
+
+<p>The boatmen of the Ohio and Mississippi are the most riotous and lawless
+set of people in America, and the least inclined to submit to the
+constituted authorities. At Cincinnati I saw one of those persons
+arrested, on the wharf, for debt. He seemed little inclined to submit; as,
+could he contrive to escape to the opposite shore, he was safe. He called
+upon his companions in the flat-boat, who came instantly to his
+assistance, and were apparently ready to rescue him from the clutches of
+this trans-Atlantic bum-bailiff. The constable instantly pulled out&mdash;not a
+<a name="Page_246"></a>pistol, but a small piece of paper, and said, &quot;I take him in the name of
+the States.&quot; The messmates of this unfortunate navigator looked at him for
+some time, and then one of them said drily, &quot;I guess you must go with the
+constable.&quot; Subsequently, at New York, one evening returning to my hotel,
+I heard a row in a tavern, and wishing to see the process of capturing
+refractory citizens, I entered with some other persons. The constable was
+there unsupported by any of his brethren, and it seemed to me to be
+morally impossible that, without assistance, he could take half a dozen
+fellows, who were with difficulty restrained from whipping each other.
+However, his hand seemed to be as potent as the famous magic wand of
+Armida, for on placing it on the shoulders of the combatants, they fell
+into the ranks, and marched off with him as quietly as if they had been
+sheep. The rationale of the matter is this: those men had all exercised
+the franchise, if not in the election of these <a name="Page_247"></a>very constables, of
+others, and they therefore not only considered it to be their duty to
+support the constable's authority, but actually felt a strong inclination
+to do so. Because they <i>knew</i> that the authority he exercised was only
+delegated to him by themselves, and that, in resisting him, they would
+resist their own sovereignty. Even in large towns in the western country,
+the constable has no men under his command, but always finds most powerful
+allies in the citizens themselves, whenever a lawless scoundrel, or a
+culprit is to be captured.</p>
+
+<p>At Flemingsburg I saw an Albino, a female about fourteen years old. Her
+parents were clear negros, of the Congo or Guinea race, and in every thing
+but colour she perfectly resembled them. Her form, face, and hair,
+possessed the true negro characteristics&mdash;curved shins, projecting jaw,
+retreating forehead, and woolly head. The skin was rather whiter than that
+of the generality of Europeans, but was deficient in glossiness, <a name="Page_248"></a>and
+although perfectly smooth, had a dry appearance. The wool on the head was
+of a light flaxen colour, and the iris of the eye was of a reddish-blue
+tinge. Her eyes were so weak as to bear with difficulty the glare of day.
+Most Albinos are dim sighted until twilight, when they appear to have as
+perfect vision as persons with the strongest sight, and in many cases,
+even more acute. This individual had evidently weak sight, as the eyelids
+were generally half closed, and she always held her head down during day
+light.</p>
+
+<p>Near the banks of the Ohio, full three hundred miles from the sea, I found
+conglomerations of marine shells, mixed with siliceous earth; and in
+nearly all the runs throughout Kentucky, limestone pebbles are found,
+bearing the perfect impressions of the interior of shells. The most
+abundant proofs are every where exhibited, that at one period the vast
+savannahs and lofty mountains of the New world were submerged; and perhaps
+the present bed of the ocean was once covered <a name="Page_249"></a>with verdure, and the seat
+of the sorrows and joys of myriads of human beings, who erected cities,
+and built pyramids, and monuments, which Time has long since swept away,
+and wrapt in his eternal mantle of oblivion. That a constant, but almost
+imperceptible change is hourly taking place in the earth's surface,
+appears to be established; and independent of the extraordinary
+<i>bouleversements</i>, which have at intervals convulsed our globe, this
+gradual revolution has produced, and will produce again, a total
+alteration in the face of nature.</p><a name="Page_250"></a>
+
+<p>FOOTNOTES:</p>
+
+<a name="Footnote_14_14"></a><a href="#FNanchor_14_14">[14]</a><div class="note"><p> Amongst other plans to this effect, there is one proposed, by
+which midshipmen on half-pay will be obliged to make at least two voyages
+annually, in merchant ships, as mates, and all others must have done so,
+in order to entitle them to be reinstated in their former rank. Another
+is, that there shall be small vessels, rigged and fitted out in war style,
+appropriated to the purpose of teaching pupils, practically, the science
+of navigation, and the discipline necessary to be observed on board
+vessels of war. The Americans may not eat their fish with silver forks,
+nor lave their fingers in the most approved style; yet they are by no
+means so contemptible a people as some of our small gentry affect to
+think. They may too, occasionally, be put down in political argument, by
+the dogmatical method of the quarter-deck; but I must confess that <i>I</i>
+never was so fortunate as to come in contact with any who reasoned so
+badly as the persons Captain Bazil Hall introduces in his book.</p></div>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;">
+<a name="CHAPTER_IX"></a><h2><a name="Page_251"></a>CHAPTER IX</h2>
+<br>
+
+<p>The wailings of the Cherokee, the Choctaw, and the Creek, may have been
+wafted across the waters of the great salt lake, and the Pale-face in his
+own land may have heard their lamentations;&mdash;but the distant voice is
+scattered by the passing winds, and is heard like the whisper of a summer
+breeze as it steals along the prairies of the west, or the cry of the
+wish-ton-wish as it faintly reaches the ear of the navigator, when, in the
+stilly night, he floats down &quot;the old father of waters.&quot;</p>
+
+<p>The present posture of Indian affairs, and the peculiar situation of the
+Indian nations east of the Mississippi, have caused <a name="Page_252"></a>that unfortunate
+people to be the topic of much political controversy and conversation; a
+succinct account of the political condition of these tribes, and of the
+policy which has been pursued, and which is being pursued towards them, by
+the executive government, may not therefore be uninteresting.</p>
+
+<p>When Georgia, by becoming a member of the Union, ceded part of her
+sovereignty to the general executive, that government acknowledged her
+claimed limits, and guaranteed to her the protection of the Union against
+foreign and domestic violence. Subsequently, in the year of 1802, in
+consideration of a certain portion of lands ceded, the United States
+became bound to purchase for Georgia, any claim which the Cherokee nation
+might have on lands within her boundaries, whenever such purchase could be
+made on reasonable terms. On these positions are based the Georgian
+claims, which the United States government has hitherto pleaded inability
+to satisfy, inasmuch as all <a name="Page_253"></a>efforts to purchase the Indian lands have
+proved fruitless.</p>
+
+<p>After the lapse of twenty-seven years, Georgia, finding herself precisely
+in the same condition in which she then stood, has determined on forcibly
+taking possession of the Cherokee lands, and extending her sovereignty
+over the Cherokee people. But as this cannot be effected without doing
+manifest violence to the Indian rights, she brings forward arguments to
+show, that <i>she</i> never acknowledged the independence of the Cherokee
+nation; that that nation, from the time of the first settlement made by
+Europeans in America, stood in the position of a conquered people; that
+the sovereignty consequently dwelt in the hands of Great Britain; and
+that, on the Declaration of independence, Georgia, by becoming a free
+state, became invested with all the powers of sovereignty claimed or
+exercised by Great Britain over the Georgian territory: and further, that
+in November, 1785, when the first and only <a name="Page_254"></a>treaty was concluded with the
+Cherokees by the United States, during the articles of confederation, both
+she and North Carolina entered their solemn protests against this alleged
+violation of their legislative rights. The executive government pretends
+not to argue the case with Georgia, and is left no alternative but either
+to annul its <i>conditional</i> treaty with that state, or to cancel <i>thirteen
+distinct treaties</i> entered into with the Indians, despoil them of their
+lands, and rob them of their independence. Jackson's message says, &quot;It is
+too late to inquire whether it was just in the United States to include
+them and their territory within bounds of new states, whose limits they
+could control. That step cannot be retracted. A state cannot be
+dismembered by Congress, or restrained in the exercise of her
+constitutional powers.&quot; Here the executive government acknowledges that it
+made promises to Georgia, which it has been unable to perform&mdash;that it
+guaranteed to that state the possession of lands over which it <a name="Page_255"></a>had no
+legitimate control, on the mere assumption of being able to make their
+purchase.</p>
+
+<p>The Cherokees in their petition and memorials to Congress show, that Great
+Britain never exercised any sovereignty over them;&mdash;that in peace and in
+war she always treated them as a free people, and never assumed to herself
+the right of interfering with their internal government:&mdash;that in every
+treaty made with them by the United States, their sovereignty and total
+independence are clearly acknowledged, and that they have ever been
+considered as a distinct nation, exercising all the privileges and
+immunities enjoyed by any independent people. They say, &quot;In addition to
+that first of all rights, the right of inheritance and peaceable
+possession, we have the faith and pledge of the United States, over and
+over again, in treaties made at various times. By these treaties our
+rights as a separate people are distinctly acknowledged, and guarantees
+given that they shall <a name="Page_256"></a>be secured and protected. So we have also
+understood the treaties. The conduct of the government towards us, from
+its organization until very lately&mdash;the talks given to our beloved men by
+the Presidents of the United States&mdash;and the speeches of the agents and
+commissioners&mdash;all concur to show that we are not mistaken in our
+interpretation. Some of our beloved men who signed the treaties are still
+living, and their testimony tends to the same conclusion.&quot; * * * * &quot;In
+what light shall we view the conduct of the United States and Georgia in
+their intercourse with us, in urging us to enter into treaties and cede
+lands? If we were but tenants at will, why was it necessary that our
+consent must first be obtained before these governments could take lawful
+possession of our lands? The answer is obvious. These governments
+perfectly understand our rights&mdash;our right to the country, and our right
+to self-government. Our understanding of the treaties is further supported
+by the intercourse law of the<a name="Page_257"></a> United States, which prohibits all
+encroachment on our territory.&quot;</p>
+
+<p>The arguments used by the Cherokees are unanswerable; but in what will
+that avail them, when injustice is intended by a superior power, which,
+regardless of national faith, has determined on taking possession of their
+lands? The case stands thus: the executive government enters into an
+agreement with Georgia, and engages to deliver over to the state the
+Indian possessions within her claimed limits&mdash;without the Indians <i>having
+any knowledge of, or participation in the transaction.</i> Now what, may I
+ask, have the Indians to do with this? Ought they to be made answerable
+for the gross misconduct of the two governments, and to be despoiled,
+contrary to every principle of justice, and in defiance of the most plain
+and fundamental law of property? It puts one in mind of the judgment of
+the renowned &quot;Walter the Doubter,&quot; who decided between two citizens, that,
+as their account books appeared to be of equal <i>weight</i>, <a name="Page_258"></a>therefore their
+accounts were balanced, and that <i>the constable</i> should pay the costs. The
+United States government has made several offers to the Cherokees for
+their lands; which they have as constantly refused, and said, &quot;that they
+were very well contented where they were&mdash;that they did not wish to leave
+the bones of their ancestors, and go beyond the Mississippi; but that, if
+the country be so beautiful as their white brother represents it, they
+would recommend their white brother to go there himself.&quot;</p>
+
+<p>Georgia presses upon the executive; which, in this dilemma, comes forward
+with affected sympathy&mdash;deplores the unfortunate situation in which it is
+placed, but of course concludes that faith must be kept with Georgia, and
+that the Cherokee must either go, or submit to laws that make it far
+better for him to go than stay. It is true Jackson says in his message,
+&quot;This emigration should be voluntary; for it would be cruel as unjust to
+compel the Aborigines to abandon the <a name="Page_259"></a>graves of their fathers, and seek a
+home in a distant land.&quot; But General Jackson well knows that the laws of
+Georgia leave the Indian no choice&mdash;as no community of men, civilized or
+savage, could possibly exist under such laws. The benefit and protection
+of the laws, to which the Indian is made subject, are entirely withheld
+from him&mdash;he can be no party to a suit&mdash;he may be robbed and murdered with
+impunity&mdash;his property may be taken, and he may be driven from his
+dwelling&mdash;in fine, he is left liable to every species of insult, outrage,
+cruelty, and dishonesty, without the most distant hope of obtaining
+redress; for in Georgia <i>an Indian cannot be a witness to prove facts
+against a white man.</i> Yet General Jackson says, &quot;this emigration should be
+<i>voluntary</i>;&quot; and in the very same paragraph, with a single sweep of the
+pen, he annihilates all the treaties that have been made with that
+people&mdash;tramples under foot the laws of nations, and deprives the Indian
+of his hunting-grounds, one of his sources <a name="Page_260"></a>of subsistence. He says,&mdash;&quot;But
+it seems to me visionary to suppose that, in this state of things, claims
+can be allowed on tracts of country on which they have neither dwelt nor
+made improvements, merely because they have seen them from the mountain,
+or passed them in the chase.&quot; It certainly may be unphilosophical to
+permit any man to possess more ground than he can till with his own hands;
+yet surely arguments that we do not admit as regards ourselves, we can
+with no sense of propriety use towards others, particularly when our own
+acts are directly in the very teeth of this principle. There is more land
+at present within the limits and in the possession of the United States
+than would be sufficient to support thirty times the present
+population&mdash;yet to this must be added the hunting-grounds of the Indians,
+merely because &quot;it is <i>visionary to suppose</i> they have any claim on what
+they do not <i>actually occupy!&quot;</i></p>
+
+<p>I have now before me the particulars of <a name="Page_261"></a>thirteen treaties<a name="FNanchor_15_15"></a><a href="#Footnote_15_15"><sup>[15]</sup></a> made by the
+United States with the Cherokee nation, from the year 1785 down to 1819
+inclusive; in all of which the rights of the Indians are clearly
+acknow<a name="Page_262"></a>ledged, either directly, or by implication; and by the seventh
+article of the treaty of Holston, executed in 1791, being the first
+concluded with that people by the United States, under their present
+constitution, all the lands not thereby ceded are solemnly guaranteed to
+the Cherokee nation. The subsequent treaties are made with reference to,
+and in confirmation of this, and continually reiterate the guarantees
+therein tendered.</p>
+<a name="Page_263"></a>
+<p>To talk of justice, and honour, would be idle and visionary, for these
+seem to have been thrown overboard at the very commencement of the
+contest; but I would ask the American <i>people</i>, is their conduct towards
+the Indians politic?&mdash;is it politic in America, in the face of civilized
+nations, to violate treaties? is it politic in her, to hold herself up to
+the world as faithless and unjust&mdash;as a nation, which, in defiance of all
+moral obligation, will break her most sacred contracts, whenever it
+becomes no longer her interest to keep them, and she finds herself in a
+condition to do so with impunity? is she not furnishing foreign statesmen
+with a ready and powerful argument in defence of their violating treaties
+with her? can they not with justice say&mdash;America has manifested in her
+proceedings towards the Cherokee nation, that she is faithless&mdash;that she
+keeps no treaties longer than it may be her <i>interest</i> to do so&mdash;and are
+<i>we</i> to make ourselves the dupes of such a power, and wait until she finds
+herself in a condition <a name="Page_264"></a>to deceive us? I could produce many arguments to
+illustrate the impolicy of this conduct; but as I intend confining myself
+to a mere sketch, I shall dwell but as short a time as may be consistent
+on the several facts connected with the case.</p>
+
+<p>That the Aborigines have been cruelly treated, cannot be doubted. The very
+words of the Message admit this; and the tone of feeling and conciliation
+which follows that admission, coupled as it is with the intended injustice
+expressed in other paragraphs, can be viewed in no other light than as a
+piece of political mockery. The Message says, &quot;their present condition,
+contrasted with what they once were, makes a most powerful appeal to our
+sympathies. Our ancestors found them the uncontrolled possessors of these
+vast regions. By persuasion and force, they have been made to retire from
+river to river, and from mountain to mountain, until some of the tribes
+have become extinct, and others have left but remnants, to preserve for <a name="Page_265"></a>a
+while their once terrible names.&quot; Now the plan laid down by the president,
+in order to prevent, if possible, the total decay of the Indian people,
+is, to send them beyond the Mississippi, and <i>guarantee</i> to them the
+possession of ample territory west of that river. How far this is likely
+to answer the purpose <i>expressed</i>, let us now examine.</p>
+
+<p>The Cherokees, by their intercourse with and proximity to the white
+people, have become half civilized; and how is it likely that <i>their</i>
+condition will be improved by driving them into the forests and barren
+prairies? That territory is at present the haunt of the Pawnees, the
+Osages, and other warlike nations, who live almost entirely by the chase,
+and are constantly waging war even with each other. As soon as the
+Cherokees, and other half-civilized Indians, appear, they will be regarded
+as common intruders, and be subject to the united attacks of these people.
+There are even old feuds existing among themselves, which, it is but too
+<a name="Page_266"></a>probable, may be renewed. Trappers and hunters, in large parties, yearly
+make incursions into the country beyond the boundaries of the United
+States, and in defiance of the Indians kill the beaver and the
+buffalo&mdash;the latter merely for the <i>tongue and skin</i>, leaving the carcase
+to rot upon the ground.<a name="FNanchor_16_16"></a><a href="#Footnote_16_16"><sup>[16]</sup></a> Thus is this unfortunate race robbed of their
+means <a name="Page_267"></a>of subsistence. Moreover, what guarantee can the Indians have, that
+the United States will keep faith for the future, when it is admitted that
+they have not done so in times past? How can they be sure that they may
+not further be driven from river to river, and from mountain to mountain,
+until they reach the shores of the Pacific; and who can tell but that then
+it may be found expedient to drive them into the ocean?</p>
+
+<p>The policy of the United States government is evidently to get the Indians
+to exterminate each other. Its whole proceedings from the time this
+question was first agitated to the present, but too clearly indicate this
+intention; and if we wanted proof, that the executive government of the
+United States <i>would act</i> on so barbarous and inhuman a policy, we need
+only refer to the allocation of the Cherokees, who exchanged lands in
+Tennessee for lands west of the Mississippi, pursuant to the treaty of
+1819. It was well known that a deadly enmity <a name="Page_268"></a>existed between the Osages
+and Cherokees, and that any proximity of the two people, would inevitably
+lead to fatal results; yet, with this knowledge, the executive government
+placed those Cherokees in the country lying between the Arkansaw and Red
+rivers, <i>immediately joining the territory of the Osages.</i> It is
+unnecessary to state that the result was <i>as anticipated</i>&mdash;they daily
+committed outrages upon the persons and properties of each other, and the
+death of many warriors, on both sides, ensued.</p>
+
+<p>The sympathy expressed in that part of the Message relating to the
+Indians, if expressed with sincerity, would do much honour to the feelings
+that dictated it; but when we come to examine the facts, and investigate
+the implied allegations, we shall find that they are most gratuitous; and,
+consequently, that the regret of the president at the probable fate of the
+Indian, should he remain east of the Mississippi, is grossly hypocritical.
+He says, &quot;surrounded <a name="Page_269"></a>by the whites, with their arts of civilization,
+which, by destroying the resources of the savage, doom him to weakness and
+decay:<a name="FNanchor_17_17"></a><a href="#Footnote_17_17"><sup>[17]</sup></a> the fate of the Mohegan, the Narragansett, and the Delaware, is
+fast overtaking the Choctaw, the Cherokee, and the Creek. That this fate
+surely awaits them, if they remain within the limits of the States, does
+not admit of a doubt. Humanity and national honour demand that every
+effort should be made to avert so great a calamity.&quot; From what facts the
+president has drawn these conclusions does not appear. Neither the
+statements of the Cherokees, nor of the Indian agents, nor the report of
+the secretary of war, furnish any such information; on the contrary, with
+the exception of one or two agents <i>at Washington</i>, all give the <a name="Page_270"></a>most
+flattering accounts of advancement in civilization. The Rev. Samuel A.
+Worcester, in his letter to the Rev. E.S. Ely, editor of the
+&quot;Philadelphian,&quot; completely refutes all the unfavourable statements that
+have been got up to cover the base conduct of Jackson and the slavites.
+This gentleman has resided for the last four years among the Cherokees,
+and has surely had abundant means of observing their condition.</p>
+
+<p>The letter of David Brown (a Cherokee), addressed, September 2, 1825, to
+the editor of &quot;The Family Visitor,&quot; at Richmond, Virginia, states, that
+&quot;the Cherokee plains are covered with herds of cattle&mdash;sheep, goats, and
+swine, cover the valleys and hills&mdash;the plains and valleys are rich, and
+produce Indian corn, cotton, tobacco, wheat, oats, indigo, sweet and Irish
+potatoes, &amp;c. The natives carry on a considerable trade with the adjoining
+states, and some of them export cotton in boats down the Tennessee to the
+Mississippi, and down that river to<a name="Page_271"></a> New Orleans. Orchards are
+common&mdash;cheese, butter, &amp;c. plenty&mdash;houses of entertainment are kept by
+natives. Cotton and woollen cloths are manufactured in the nation, and
+almost every family grows cotton for its own consumption. Agricultural
+pursuits engage the chief attention of the nation&mdash;different branches of
+mechanics are pursued. Schools are increasing every year, and education is
+encouraged and rewarded.&quot; To quote David Brown verbatim, on the
+population,&mdash;&quot;In the year 1819, an estimate was made of the Cherokees.
+Those on the west were estimated at 5,000, and those on the east of the
+Mississippi, at 10,000 souls. The census of this division of the Cherokees
+has again been taken within the current year (1825), and the returns are
+thus made: native citizens, 13,563; white men married in the nation, 147;
+white women ditto, 73; African slaves, 1177. If this summary of the
+Cherokee population, from the census, is correct, to say nothing <a name="Page_272"></a>of those
+of foreign extract, we find that in six years the increase has been 3,563
+souls. National pride, patriotism, and a spirit of independence, mark the
+Cherokee character.&quot; He further states, &quot;the system of government is
+founded on republican principles, and secures the respect of the people.&quot;
+An alphabet has been invented by an Indian, named George Guess, the
+Cherokee Cadmus, and a printing press has been established at New Echota,
+the seat of government, where there is published weekly a paper entitled,
+&quot;The Cherokee Phoenix,&quot;&mdash;one half being in the English language, and the
+other in that of the Cherokee.</p>
+
+<p>The report of the secretary of war, upon the present condition of the
+Indians, states of the Chickesaws and Choctaws, all that has been above
+said of the Cherokees. But of the last-mentioned people, the secretary's
+accounts appear to be studiously defective. Yet the fact is notorious,
+that both the<a name="Page_273"></a> Chickesaws and Choctaws are far behind the Cherokees in
+civilization.</p>
+
+<p>With these facts before our eyes, what are we to think of the grief of the
+president, at the decay and increasing weakness of the Cherokees? Can it
+be regarded in any way but as a piece of shameless hypocrisy, too glaring
+in its character to escape the notice even of the most inobservant
+individual. It has been said that the question involves many
+difficulties&mdash;to me there appears none. The United States, in the year
+1791, guarantee to the Indians the possession of all their lands not then
+ceded&mdash;and confirm this by numerous subsequent treaties. In 1802, they
+promise to Georgia, the possession of the Cherokee lands &quot;<i>whenever such
+purchase could be made on reasonable terms</i>&quot; This is the simple state of
+the case; and if the executive were inclined to act uprightly, the line of
+conduct to be pursued could be determined on without much difficulty.
+Georgia has no right to press upon the executive the <a name="Page_274"></a>fulfilment of
+engagements which were made conditionally, and consequently with an
+implied reservation; and the United States should not violate <i>many
+positive treaties</i>, in order to fulfil <i>a conditional one</i>.<a name="FNanchor_18_18"></a><a href="#Footnote_18_18"><sup>[18]</sup></a></p>
+
+<p>I shall now advert to some of the charges touching the character of the
+Indians. It is said, that they are debauched and insincere. This charge
+has been particularly made against the Creeks, and I believe is not
+altogether unfounded. Yet, if this be now the character of the once
+warlike and noble Creek, let the white man ask himself who has made him
+so? Who makes the &quot;firewater,&quot; and who supplies the untutored savage with
+the means of intoxication? The white-man, when he wishes to trade
+profitably with the Indian, fills the cup, and holds it forth&mdash;he says,
+'drink, my brother, it is good'&mdash;the red-man drinks, and the <a name="Page_275"></a>wily white
+points at his condition, says he is uncivilized, and should go forth from
+the land, for his presence is contamination!</p>
+
+<p>As to the charge of hypocrisy&mdash;this too has been taught or forced upon the
+Indians by the conduct of the whites. Missionaries have been constantly
+going among them, teaching dogmas and doctrines, far beyond the
+comprehension of some learned white-men, and to the savage totally
+unintelligible. These gentlemen have told long stories; and when posed by
+some quaint saying, or answered by some piece of traditional information,
+handed down from generation to generation, by the fathers and mothers of
+the tribe, have found it necessary to purchase the acquiescence of a few
+Indians by bribes, in order that their labours might not seem to have been
+altogether unsuccessful. This conduct of the Missionaries was soon
+<i>understood</i> by the Indians, and the temptation held out was too great to
+be resisted. Blankets and gowns converted, when inspiration and gospel
+truths had failed.</p><a name="Page_276"></a>
+
+<p>Mr. Houston of Tennessee, after having attained the honour of being
+governor of his state, and having enjoyed all the consideration
+necessarily attached to that office, at length became tired of civilized
+life, and retired among the Creeks to end his days. He has resided long
+among them, and knows their character well; yet, in one of his statements
+made to the Indian board at New York, he says, that the attempts to
+Christianize the Indians in their present state, he was of opinion, much
+as he honoured the zeal that had prompted them, were fruitless, <i>or
+worse.</i> The supposed conversions had produced no change of habits. So
+degraded had become the character of this once independent people, that
+professions of religious belief had been made, and the ordinances of
+religion submitted to, &quot;when an Indian wanted a new blanket, or a squaw a
+new gown.&quot;<a name="FNanchor_19_19"></a><a href="#Footnote_19_19"><sup>[19]</sup></a> Thus, <a name="Page_277"></a>according to governor Houston, the only fruits
+produced by the boasted labours of the missionaries, have been
+dissimulation and deceit; and demoralization has been the result of
+teaching <i>doctrinal</i> Christianity to the children of the forest. Yet we
+must, in candour, acknowledge that Mr. Houston is not singular in that
+opinion, since we find, so far back as the year 1755, Cadwallader Calden
+express himself much to the same effect. &quot;The Five Nations,&quot; he says, &quot;are
+a poor and generally called barbarous people, bred under the darkest
+ignorance; and yet a bright and noble genius shines through these black
+clouds. None of the greatest Roman heroes have discovered a greater love
+of country, or contempt of death, than these people, called barbarous,
+have shown when liberty came in competition. Indeed I think our Indians
+have outdone the Romans in this particular. Some of the greatest of those
+Roman heroes have murdered themselves to avoid shame or torments; but our<a name="Page_278"></a>
+Indians have refused to die meanly or with little pain, when they thought
+their country's honour would be at stake by it; but have given their
+bodies willingly to the most cruel torments of their enemies, to show, as
+they said, that 'the Five Nations' consisted of men whose courage and
+resolution could not be shaken. But what, alas! have we Christians done to
+make them better? We have, indeed, reason to be ashamed that these
+infidels, by our conversation and neighbourhood, are become worse than
+they were before they knew us. Instead of virtue, we have only taught them
+vice, that they were entirely free from before that time.&quot;<a name="FNanchor_20_20"></a><a href="#Footnote_20_20"><sup>[20]</sup></a> The Rev.
+Timothy Flint, who was himself a missionary, in his &quot;Ten Years' Residence
+in the Valley of the Mississippi,&quot; observes, page<a name="Page_279"></a> 144,&mdash;&quot;I have surely
+had it in my heart to impress them with the importance of the subject
+(religion). I have scarcely noticed an instance in which the subject was
+not received either with indifference, rudeness, or jesting. Of all races
+of men that I have seen, they seem most incapable of religious
+impressions. They have, indeed, some notions of an invisible agent, but
+they seemed generally to think that the Indians had their god as the
+whites had theirs.&quot; And again, &quot;nothing will eventually be gained to the
+great cause by colouring and mis-statement,&quot; alluding to the practice of
+the missionaries; &quot;and however reluctant we may be to receive it, the real
+state of things will eventually be known to us. We have heard of the
+imperishable labours of an Elliott and a Brainard, in other days. But in
+these times it is a melancholy truth, that Protestant exertions to
+Christianize them have not been marked with apparent success. The
+Catholics have caused many to hang a crucifix <a name="Page_280"></a>around their necks, which
+they show as they show their medals and other ornaments, and this is too
+often all they have to mark them as Christians. We have read the
+narratives of the Catholics, which detailed the most glowing and animating
+views of success. I have had accounts, however, from travellers in these
+regions, that have been over the Stony mountains into the great missionary
+settlements of St. Peter and St. Paul. These travellers (and some of them
+were professed Catholics) unite in affirming that the converts will escape
+from the missions whenever it is in their power, fly into their native
+deserts, and resume at once their old mode of life.&quot;</p>
+
+<p>That the vast sums expended on missions should have produced so little
+effect, we may consider lamentable, but it is lamentably true; for in
+addition to the mass of evidence we have to that effect, from
+disinterested white men, we have also the speeches and communications of
+the Indians themselves. The celebrated Seneca chief, Saguyuwhaha<a name="Page_281"></a> (keeper
+awake), better known in the United States by the name of Red-jacket, in a
+letter communicated to Governor De Witt Clinton, at a treaty held at
+Albany, says, &quot;Our great father, the President, has recommended to our
+young men to be industrious, to plough and to sow. This we have done; and
+we are thankful for the advice, and for the means he has afforded us of
+carrying it into effect. We are happier in consequence of it; <i>but another
+thing recommended to us, has created great confusion among us, and is
+making us a quarrelsome and divided people; and that is, the introduction
+of preachers into our nation</i>. These black-coats contrive to get the
+consent of some of the Indians to preach among us; and whenever this is
+the case, confusion and disorder are sure to follow, and the encroachment
+of the whites on our lands is the inevitable consequence.</p>
+
+<p>&quot;The governor must not think hard of me for speaking thus of the
+preachers: I <a name="Page_282"></a>have observed their progress, and whenever I look back to
+see what has taken place of old, I perceive that whenever they came among
+the Indians, they were the forerunners of their dispersion; that they
+always excited enmities and quarrels amongst them; that they introduced
+the white people on their lands, by whom they were robbed and plundered of
+their property; and that the Indians were sure to dwindle and decrease,
+and be driven back, in proportion to the number of preachers that came
+among them.</p>
+
+<p>&quot;Each nation has its own customs and its own religion. The Indians have
+theirs, given them by the Great Spirit, under which they were happy. It
+was not intended that they should embrace the religion of the whites, and
+be destroyed by the attempt to make them think differently on that subject
+from their fathers.</p>
+
+<p>&quot;It is true, these preachers have got the consent of some of the chiefs to
+stay and preach amongst us; but I and my friends <a name="Page_283"></a>know this to be wrong,
+and that they ought to be removed; besides, we have been threatened by Mr.
+Hyde&mdash;who came among us as a schoolmaster and a teacher of our children,
+but has now become a black-coat, and refuses to teach them any more&mdash;that
+unless we listen to his preaching and become Christians, we shall be
+turned off our lands. We wish to know from the governor, if this is to be
+so? and if he has no right to say so, we think <i>he</i> ought to be turned off
+our lands, and not allowed to plague us any more. We shall never be at
+peace while he is among us.</p>
+
+<p>&quot;We are afraid too, that these preachers, by and by, will become poor,
+<i>and force us to pay them for living among us, and disturbing us.</i></p>
+
+<p>&quot;Some of our chiefs have got lazy, and instead of cultivating their lands
+themselves, employ white people to do so. There are now eleven families
+living on our reservation at Buffalo; this is wrong, and ought not to <a name="Page_284"></a>be
+permitted. The great source of all our grievances is, that the whites are
+among us. Let <i>them</i> be removed, and we will be happy and contented among
+ourselves. We now cry to the governor for help, and hope that he will
+attend to our complaints, and speedily give us redress.&quot;<a name="FNanchor_21_21"></a><a href="#Footnote_21_21"><sup>[21]</sup></a></p>
+
+<p>This melancholy hostility to the missionaries is not confined to a
+particular tribe or nation of Indians, for all those people, in every
+situation, from the base of the Alleghanies to the foot of the Rocky
+mountains, declare the same sentiments on this subject; and although
+policy or courtesy may induce some chiefs to express themselves less
+strongly than Red-jacket has expressed himself, we have but too many
+proofs that their feelings are not more moderate. On the fourth of
+February, 1822, the president of the United States, in council, received a
+<a name="Page_285"></a>deputation of Indians, from the principal nations west of the
+Mississippi, who came under the protection of Major O'Fallon, when each
+chief delivered a speech on the occasion. I shall here insert an extract
+from that of the &quot;Wandering Pawnee&quot; chief, more as a specimen of Indian
+wisdom and eloquence than as bearing particularly on the subject. Speaking
+of the Great Spirit, he said, &quot;We worship him not as you do. We differ
+from you in appearance, and manners, as well as in our customs; and we
+differ from you in our religion. We have no large houses, as you have, to
+worship the Great Spirit in: if we had them to-day, we should want others
+to-morrow; for we have not like you a fixed habitation&mdash;we have no settled
+home except our villages, where we remain but two months in twelve. We,
+like animals, rove through the country; whilst you whites reside between
+us and heaven. But still, my great Father, we love the Great Spirit&mdash;we
+acknowledge his supreme power&mdash;<a name="Page_286"></a>our peace, our health, and our happiness
+depend upon him, and our lives belong to him&mdash;he made us, and he can
+destroy us.</p>
+
+<p>&quot;My great Father,&mdash;some of your good chiefs, as they are called
+(missionaries), have proposed to send some of their good people among us
+to change our habits, to make us work for them, and live like the white
+people. I will not tell a lie&mdash;I am going to tell the truth. You love your
+country&mdash;you love your people&mdash;you love the manner in which they live, and
+you think your people brave. I am like you, my great Father; I love my
+country&mdash;I love my people&mdash;I love the manner in which we live, and think
+myself and warriors brave.<a name="FNanchor_22_22"></a><a href="#Footnote_22_22"><sup>[22]</sup></a> Spare me then, my<a name="Page_287"></a> Father; let me enjoy my
+country, and pursue the buffalo and the beaver, and the other wild animals
+of our country, and I will trade their skins with your people. I have
+grown up and lived thus long without work&mdash;I am in hopes you will suffer
+me to die without it. We have plenty of buffalo, beaver, deer, and other
+wild animals&mdash;we have also an abundance of horses&mdash;we have every thing we
+want&mdash;we have plenty of land, <i>if you will keep your people off it</i>. My
+Father has a piece on which he lives (Council bluffs), and we wish him to
+enjoy it&mdash;we have <a name="Page_288"></a>enough without it&mdash;but we wish him to live near us, to
+give us good council&mdash;to keep our ears and eyes open, that we may continue
+to pursue the right road&mdash;the road to happiness. He settles all
+differences between us and the whites, between the red-skins
+themselves&mdash;he makes the whites do justice to the red-skins, and he makes
+the red-skins do justice to the whites. He saves the effusion of human
+blood, and restores peace and happiness in the land. You have already sent
+us a father (Major O'Fallon); it is enough&mdash;he knows us, and we know
+him&mdash;we keep our eye constantly upon him, and since we have heard <i>your</i>
+words, we will listen more attentively to <i>his</i>.</p>
+
+<p>&quot;It is too soon, my great Father, to send those good chiefs amongst us.
+<i>We are not starving yet</i>&mdash;we wish you to permit us to enjoy the chase
+until the game of our country is exhausted&mdash;until the wild animals become
+extinct. Let us exhaust our present resources <a name="Page_289"></a>before you make us toil and
+interrupt our happiness. Let me continue to live as I have done; and after
+I have passed to the good or evil spirit, from off the wilderness of my
+present life, the subsistence of my children may become so precarious as
+to need and embrace the assistance of those good people.</p>
+
+<p>&quot;There was a time when we did not know the whites&mdash;our wants were then
+fewer than they are now. They were always within our control&mdash;we had then
+seen nothing which we could not get. Before our intercourse with the
+whites (who have caused such a destruction in our game) we could lie down
+to sleep, and when we awoke we would find the buffalo feeding around our
+camp&mdash;but now we are killing them for their skins, and feeding the wolves
+with their flesh, to make our children cry over their bones.</p>
+
+<p>&quot;Here, my great Father, is a pipe which I present to you, as I am
+accustomed to present pipes to all the Red-skins in peace with us. It is
+filled with such tobacco as we were accustomed to smoke before we knew
+<a name="Page_290"></a>the white people. It is pleasant, and the spontaneous growth of the most
+remote parts of our country. I know that the robes, leggings, and
+moccasins, and bear-claws are of little value to <i>you</i>; but we wish you to
+have them deposited and preserved in some conspicuous part of your lodge,
+so that when we are gone and the sod turned over our bones, if our
+children should visit this place, as we do now, they may see and recognize
+with pleasure the depositories of their fathers; and reflect on the times
+that are past.&quot;</p>
+
+<p>I shall now take leave of the Indians and their political condition, by
+observing that the proceedings of the American government, throughout,
+towards this brave but unfortunate race, have only been exceeded in
+atrocity by the past and present conduct of the East India government
+towards the pusillanimous but unoffending Hindoos.</p>
+
+<div class="blkquot"><p><i>Note</i>.&mdash;This chapter I wrote during my stay in Kentucky, and the
+    first part of it, in substance, was inserted in the &quot;Kentucky
+    Intelligencer,&quot; at the request of the talented editor and
+    proprietor, John Mullay, Esq.</p></div>
+
+<p>FOOTNOTES:</p>
+
+<a name="Footnote_15_15"></a><a href="#FNanchor_15_15">[15]</a><div class="note"><p> In November, 1785, during the articles of confederation, a
+treaty is concluded with the Cherokees, which establishes a boundary, and
+allots to the Indians a great extent of country, now within the limits of
+North Carolina and Georgia.
+</p><p>
+In 1791, the treaty of Holston is concluded; by which a new boundary is
+agreed upon. This was the first treaty made by the United States under
+their present constitution; and by the seventh article, a solemn guarantee
+is given for all the lands not then ceded.
+</p><p>
+On the 7th of February, 1792, by an additional article to the last treaty,
+500 dollars are added to the stipulated annuity.
+</p><p>
+In June, 1794, another treaty is entered into, in which the provisions of
+the treaty of 1791 are revived, an addition is made to the annuity, and
+provision made for marking the boundary line.
+</p><p>
+In October, 1798, a treaty is concluded which revives former treaties, and
+curtails the boundary of Indian lands by a cession to the United States,
+for an additional compensation.
+</p><p>
+In October, 1804, a treaty is concluded, by which, for a consideration
+specified, more land is ceded.
+</p><p>
+In October, 1805, two treaties are made, by which an additional quantity
+of land is ceded.
+</p><p>
+On 7th January, 1806, by another treaty, more land is ceded to the United
+States.
+</p><p>
+In September, 1807, the boundary line intended in the last treaty,
+is satisfactorily ascertained.
+</p><p>
+On 22d March, 1816, a treaty is concluded, by which lands in South
+Carolina are ceded, for which the United States engage South
+Carolina shall pay. On the same day another treaty is made, by
+which the Indians agree to allow the use of the water-courses in
+their country, and also to permit roads to be made through the
+same.
+</p><p>
+On the 14th of September, 1816, a treaty is made, by which an
+additional quantity of land is ceded to the United States.
+</p><p>
+On the 8th of July, 1817, a treaty is concluded, by which an
+exchange of lands is agreed on, and a plan for dividing the
+Cherokees settled.
+</p><p>
+On the 27th of February, 1819, another treaty is concluded, in
+execution of the stipulations contained in that of 1817, in
+several particulars, and in which an additional tract of country
+is ceded to the United States.</p></div>
+
+<a name="Footnote_16_16"></a><a href="#FNanchor_16_16">[16]</a><div class="note"><p> &quot;The white hunter, on encamping in his journeys, cuts down
+green trees, and builds a large fire of long logs, sitting at some
+distance from it. The Indian hunts up a few dry limbs, cracks them into
+little pieces a foot in length, builds a small fire, and sits close to it.
+He gets as much warmth as the white hunter without half the labour, and
+does not burn more than a fiftieth part of the wood. The Indian considers
+the forest his own, and is careful in using and preserving every thing
+which it affords. He never kills more than he has occasion for. The white
+hunter destroys all before him, and cannot resist the opportunity of
+killing game, although he neither wants the meat nor can carry the skins.
+I was particularly struck with this wanton practice, which lately occurred
+on White river. A hunter returning from the woods, heavily laden with the
+flesh and skins of five bears, unexpectedly arrived in the midst of a
+drove of buffalos, and wantonly shot down three, having no other object
+than the sport of killing them. This is one of the causes of the enmity
+existing between the white and red hunters of Missouri&quot;.&mdash;<i>Schoolcroft's
+Tour in Missouri</i>, page 52.</p></div>
+
+<a name="Footnote_17_17"></a><a href="#FNanchor_17_17">[17]</a><div class="note"><p> Does the General include among the arts of civilization, that
+of systematically robbing the Indians of their farms and hunting grounds?
+If so, no doubt <i>these arts of civilization</i>, must inevitably &quot;destroy the
+resources of the savage,&quot; and &quot;doom him to weakness and decay.&quot;</p></div>
+
+<a name="Footnote_18_18"></a><a href="#FNanchor_18_18">[18]</a><div class="note"><p> The Indians apply the term &quot;Christian honesty,&quot; precisely in
+the same sense that the Romans applied &quot;<i>Punica fides</i>.&quot;</p></div>
+
+<a name="Footnote_19_19"></a><a href="#FNanchor_19_19">[19]</a><div class="note"><p> There is an old Indian at present in the Missouri territory,
+to whom his tribe has given the cognomen of &quot;much-water,&quot; from the
+circumstance of his having been baptized so frequently.</p></div>
+
+<a name="Footnote_20_20"></a><a href="#FNanchor_20_20">[20]</a><div class="note"><p> Heriot says (page 320), &quot;They have evinced a decided
+attachment to their ancient habits, and have <i>gained</i> less from the means
+that might have smoothed the asperities of their condition, than they have
+<i>lost</i> by copying the vices of those, who exhibited to their view the arts
+of civilization.&quot;</p></div>
+
+<a name="Footnote_21_21"></a><a href="#FNanchor_21_21">[21]</a><div class="note"><p> This letter was dictated by Red-jacket, and interpreted by
+Henry Obeal, in the presence of ten chiefs, whose names are affixed, at
+Canandaigua, January 18, 1821.</p></div>
+
+<a name="Footnote_22_22"></a><a href="#FNanchor_22_22">[22]</a><div class="note"><p> &quot;The attachment which savages entertain for their mode of life
+supersedes every allurement, however powerful, to change it. Many
+Frenchmen have lived with them, and have imbibed such an invincible
+partiality for that independent and erratic condition, that no means could
+prevail on them to abandon it. On the contrary, no single instance has yet
+occurred of a savage being able to reconcile himself to a state of
+civilization. Infants have been taken from among the natives, and educated
+with much care in France, where they could not possibly have intercourse
+with their countrymen and relations. Although they had remained several
+years in that country, and could not form the smallest idea of the wilds
+of America, the force of blood predominated over that of education: no
+sooner did they find themselves at liberty than they tore their clothes in
+pieces, and went to traverse the forests in search of their countrymen,
+whose mode of life appeared to them far more agreeable than that which
+they had led among the French.&quot;&mdash;<i>-Heriot</i>, p. 354.
+</p><p>
+This passage of Heriot's is taken nearly verbatim from Charlevoix, v. 2,
+p. 109.</p></div>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;">
+<a name="CHAPTER_X"></a><h2><a name="Page_291"></a>CHAPTER X</h2>
+<br>
+
+<p>I left Kentucky, and passed up the river to Wheeling, in Virginia. There
+is little worthy of observation encountered in a passage up this part of
+the Ohio, except the peculiar character of the stream, which has been
+before alluded to. At Marietta, at the mouth of the Muskingum,
+ship-building is carried on; and vessels have been constructed at
+Pittsburg, full 2000 miles from the gulf of Mexico. About seventy miles up
+the Kenhawa river, in Virginia, are situated the celebrated salt springs,
+the most productive of any in the Union. They are at present in the
+possession of a chartered company, which limits the manufacture to<a name="Page_292"></a>
+800,000 bushels annually, but it is estimated that the fifty-seven wells
+are capable of yielding 50,000 bushels each, per annum, which would make
+an aggregate of 2,850,000 bushels. Many of these springs issue out of
+rocks, and the water is so strongly impregnated with salt, that from 90 to
+130 gallons yield a bushel. The whole western country bordering the Ohio
+and its tributaries, is supplied with salt from these works.</p>
+
+<p>Wheeling, although not large, enjoys a considerable share of commercial
+intercourse, being an entrep&ocirc;t for eastern merchandize, which is
+transported from the Atlantic cities across the mountains to this town and
+Pittsburg, and from thence by water to the different towns along the
+rivers.</p>
+
+<p>The process of &quot;hauling&quot; merchandize from Baltimore and Philadelphia to
+the banks of the Ohio, and <i>vice vers&acirc;</i>, is rather tedious, the roads
+lying across steep and rugged mountains. Large covered waggons, light and
+strong, drawn by five or six horses, <a name="Page_293"></a>two and two, are employed for this
+purpose. The waggoner always rides the near shaft horse, and guides the
+team by means of reins, a whip, and his voice. The time generally consumed
+in one of these journeys is from twenty to twenty-five days.</p>
+
+<p>All the mountains or hills on the upper part of the Ohio, from Wheeling to
+Pittsburg, contain immense beds of coal; this added to the mineral
+productions, particularly that of iron ore, which abound in this section
+of country, offers advantages for manufacturing, which are of considerable
+importance, and are fully appreciated. Pittsburg is called the Birmingham
+of America. Some of those coal beds are well circumstanced, the coal being
+found immediately under the super-stratum, and the galleries frequently
+running out on the high road. Notwithstanding the local advantages, and
+the protection and encouragement at present afforded by the tariff,
+England need never fear any extensive competition with her <a name="Page_294"></a>manufactures
+in foreign markets from America, as the high spirit of the people of that
+country will always prevent them from pursuing, extensively, the sordid
+occupations of the loom or the workshop.</p>
+
+<p>The upper parts of Virginia and Pennsylvania are in a high state of
+improvement; the land is hilly, and the face of the country picturesque.
+The farms are well cultivated, and there is a large portion of pasture
+land in this and the adjoining states. I encountered several large droves
+of horses and black cattle on their way to the neighbourhood of
+Philadelphia and to the state of New York. The black cattle are purchased
+principally in Ohio, whence they are brought into the Atlantic states, to
+be fattened and consumed. The farmers and their families in Pennsylvania,
+have an appearance of comfort and respectability a good deal resembling
+that of the substantial English yeoman; yet farming here, as in all parts
+of the country, is a laborious occupation.</p><a name="Page_295"></a>
+
+<p>I crossed the Monongahela at Williamsport, and the Youghaghany at
+Robstown, and so on through Mountpleasant to the first ridge of mountains,
+called &quot;the chestnut ridge.&quot; I determined on crossing the mountains on
+foot; and after having made arrangements to that effect, I commenced
+sauntering along the road. Near Mountpleasant, I stopped to dine at the
+house of a Dutchman by descent. After dinner, the party adjourned, as is
+customary, to the bar-room, when divers political and polemical topics
+were canvassed with the usual national warmth. An account of his late
+Majesty's death was inserted in a Philadelphia paper, and happened to be
+noticed by one of the politicians present, when the landlord asked me how
+we elected our king in England. I replied that he was not elected, but
+that he became king by birthright, &amp;c. A Kentuckian observed, placing his
+leg on the back of the next chair, &quot;That's a kind of unnatural.&quot; An
+Indianian said, &quot;I don't <a name="Page_296"></a>believe in that system myself.&quot; A third&mdash;&quot;Do you
+mean to tell me, that because the last king was a smart man and knew his
+duty, that his son, or his brother, should be a smart man, and fit for the
+situation?&quot; I explained that we had a premier, ministers, &amp;c.;&mdash;when the
+last gentleman replied, &quot;Then you pay half-a-dozen men to do one man's
+business. Yes&mdash;yes&mdash;that may do for Englishmen very well; but, I guess, it
+would not go down here&mdash;no, no, Americans are a little more enlightened
+than to stand that kind of wiggery.&quot; During this conversation, a person
+had stepped into the room, and had taken his seat in silence. I was about
+to reply to the last observations of my antagonist, when this gentleman
+opened out, with, &quot;yes! that may do for Englishmen very well&quot;&mdash;he was an
+Englishman, I knew at once by his accent, and I verily believe the
+identical radical who set the village of Bracebridge by the ears, and
+pitched the villagers to the devil, on seeing them grin through a
+<a name="Page_297"></a>horse-collar, when they should have been calculating the interest of the
+national debt, or conning over the list of sinecure placemen. He held in
+his hand, instead of &quot;Cobbett's Register,&quot; the &quot;Greenville
+Republican.&quot;&mdash;He had substituted for his short-sleeved coat, &quot;a
+round-about.&quot;&mdash;He seemed to have put on flesh, and looked somewhat more
+contented. &quot;Yes, yes,&quot; he says, &quot;that may do for Englishmen very well, but
+it won't do here. Here we make our own laws, and we keep them too. It may
+do for Englishmen very well, to have <i>the liberty</i> of paying taxes for the
+support of the nobility. To have <i>the liberty</i> of being incarcerated in a
+gaol, for shooting the wild animals of the country. To have <i>the liberty</i>
+of being seized by a press-gang, torn away from their wives and families,
+and flogged at the discretion of my lord Tom, Dick, or Harry's bastard.&quot;
+At this, the Kentuckian gnashed his teeth, and instinctively grasped his
+hunting-knife;&mdash;an old Indian doctor, who was squatting in one <a name="Page_298"></a>corner of
+the room, said, slowly and emphatically, as his eyes glared, his nostrils
+dilated, and his lip curled with contempt&mdash;&quot;The Englishman is a
+dog&quot;&mdash;while a Georgian slave, who stood behind his master's chair, grinned
+and chuckled with delight, as he said&mdash;&quot;<i>poor</i> Englishman, him meaner man
+den black nigger.&quot;&mdash;&quot;To have,&quot; continued the Englishman, &quot;<i>the liberty</i> of
+being transported for seven years for being caught learning the use of the
+sword or the musket. To have the tenth lamb, and the tenth sheaf seized,
+or the blanket torn from off his bed, to pay a bloated, a plethoric bishop
+or parson,&mdash;to be kicked and cuffed about by a parcel of 'Bourbon
+<i>gendarmerie</i>'&mdash;Liberty!&mdash;why hell sweat&quot;&mdash;here I&mdash;slipped out at the side
+door into the water-melon patch. As I receded, I heard the whole party
+burst out into an obstreperous fit of laughter.&mdash;A few broken sentences,
+from the Kentuckian and the radical, reached my ear, such as &quot;backed
+out&quot;&mdash;&quot;damned aristocratic.&quot; I returned in <a name="Page_299"></a>about half an hour to pay my
+bill, when I could observe one or two of those doughty politicians who
+remained, leering at me most significantly. However, I&mdash;&quot;smiled, and said
+nothing.&quot;</p>
+
+<p>&quot;The Chestnut ridge&quot; is a chain of rocky, barren mountains, covered with
+wood, and the ascent is steep and difficult. It is named from the quantity
+of chestnut trees that compose the bulk of its timber. Being a little
+fatigued in ascending, I sat down in a wood of scrub oak. When I had been
+some time seated on a large stone, my ear caught the gliding of a snake.
+Turning quickly, I perceived, at about a yard's distance, a reptile of
+that beautiful species the rattle-snake. He ceased moving: I jumped up,
+and struck at his head with a stick, but missed the blow. He instantly
+coiled and rattled. I now retreated beyond the range of his spring.
+Perceiving that I had no intention of giving him fair play by coming
+within his reach, he suddenly uncoiled and glid <a name="Page_300"></a>across a log, thinking to
+make good his retreat; but being determined on having&mdash;not his scalp, for
+the head of a rattle-snake is rather a dangerous toy&mdash;but his rattle, I
+pursued him across the log. He now coiled again, and rattled most
+furiously, thus indicating his extreme wrath at being attacked: the bite
+of this reptile is most venomous when he is most enraged. I took up a flat
+stone, about six inches square, and lobbed it on his coil. He suddenly
+darted out towards me; but, as I had anticipated, he was encumbered with
+the stone. I now advanced, and struck him on the head with my stick. I
+repeated the blow until he seemed to be deprived of sensation, when I drew
+my hunting knife and decapitated him. For a full hour afterwards the body
+retained all the vigour and sensitiveness which it possessed previous to
+decapitation, and on touching any part of it, would twist round in the
+same manner as when the animal was perfect. Sensation gradually
+disappeared, departing <a name="Page_301"></a>first from the extremities&mdash;more towards the
+wounded extremity than towards the other, but gradually from both, until
+it was entirely gone. The length of this reptile was about four feet, and
+the skin was extremely beautiful. Nothing could exceed the beauty of his
+eye. A clear black lustre characterizes the eye of this animal, and is
+said to produce so powerful an effect on birds and smaller animals, as to
+deprive them of the power of escaping. This snake had eight rattles, so
+that he must have been at least eleven years old. I understood afterwards
+that there was a rattle-snakes' den in the neighbourhood. They appear to
+live in society, and the large quantities that are frequently found
+congregated together are astonishing. The Jacksonville (Illinois) Gazette
+of the 22d April, 1830, says, &quot;Last week, a den of rattle-snakes was
+discovered near Apple Creek, by a person while engaged in digging for rock
+in that part of our country. He made known the circumstance to the
+<a name="Page_302"></a>neighbours, who visited the place, where they killed 193 rattle-snakes,
+the largest of which (as our informant, who was on the spot, told us)
+measured nearly four feet in length. Besides these, there were sixteen
+black snakes destroyed, together with one copper-head. Counting the young
+ones, there were upwards of 1000 killed.&quot; There are two species of
+rattle-snake, which are in constant hostility with each other. The common
+black snake, whose bite is perfectly innoxious, and the copper-head, have
+also a deadly enmity towards the rattle-snake, which, when they meet it,
+they never fail to attack.</p>
+
+<p>The next ridge of mountains is called the &quot;laurel hills,&quot; which are
+covered with an immense growth of different species of laurel. Between
+these and the Alleghany ridge are situated &quot;the glades&quot;&mdash;beautiful fertile
+plains in a high state of cultivation. This district is most healthy, and
+fevers and agues are unknown to the inhabitants. Here the &quot;Dela<a name="Page_303"></a>wares of
+the hills&quot; once roamed the sole lords of this fine country; and perhaps
+from the very eminence from whence I contemplated the beauty of the scene,
+some warrior, returning from the &quot;war path&quot; or the chase, may have gazed
+with pleasure on the hills of his fathers, the possessions of a long line
+of Sylvan heros, and in the pride of manhood said&mdash;'The Delawares are
+men&mdash;they are strong in battle, and cunning on the trail of their foes&mdash;at
+the 'council fire' there is wisdom in their words. Who counts more scalps
+than the Lenni Lenap&eacute; warrior?&mdash;he can never be conquered&mdash;the stranger
+shall never dwell in his glades.' Where now is the &quot;Delaware of the
+hills?&quot;&mdash;gone!&mdash;his very name is unknown in his own land, and not a
+vestige remains to tell that <i>there</i> once dwelt a great and powerful
+tribe. When the white man falls, his high towers and lofty battlements are
+laid crumbling with the dust, yet these mighty ruins remain for ages,
+monuments of his former greatness: but the<a name="Page_304"></a> Indian passes away, silent as
+the noiseless tread of the moccasin&mdash;the next snow comes, and his &quot;trail&quot;
+is blotted out for ever.</p>
+
+<p>I toiled across the Alleghanies, which are completely covered with timber,
+and passed on to a place within about thirty miles of Chambersburg, on a
+branch of the Potomac. Here, coming in upon <i>civilization</i>, I took the
+stage to Baltimore. In my pedestrian excursion the road lay for several
+miles along the banks of the Juniata, which is a very fine river. The
+scenery is romantic, and is much beautified by a large growth of
+magnificent pines. The Alleghany ridge is composed chiefly of sand-stone,
+clay-slate, and lime-stone-slate, sand-stone sometimes in large blocks.</p>
+
+<p>I encountered several parties of French, Irish, Swiss, Bavarians, Dutch,
+&amp;c. going westward, with swarms of children, and considerable quantities
+of household lumber:&mdash;symptoms of seeking <i>El dorado</i>.</p>
+
+<p>In the neighbourhood of Baltimore there <a name="Page_305"></a>are many handsome residences, and
+the farms are all well cleared, and in many cases walled in. The number of
+comparatively miserable-looking cabins which are dispersed along the road
+near this town, and the long lists of crimes and misdemeanours with which
+the Journals of Baltimore and Philadelphia are filled, sufficiently
+indicate that these cities have arrived to an advanced state of
+civilization. For, wherever there are very rich people, there must be very
+poor people; and wherever there are very poor people, there must
+necessarily exist a proportionate quantity of crime. Men are poor, only
+because they are ignorant; for if they possessed a knowledge of their own
+powers and capabilities, they would then know, that however wealth may be
+distributed, all real wealth is created by labour, and by labour alone.</p>
+
+<p>Baltimore is seated on the north side of the Patapsco river, within a few
+miles of the Chesapeak bay. It received its name in compliment to the
+Irish family of the Cal<a name="Page_306"></a>verts. The harbour, at Fell Point, has about
+eighteen feet water, and is defended by a strong fort, called Mc Henry's
+fort, on Observation Hill. Vessels of large tonnage cannot enter the
+basin. In 1791 it contained 13,503 inhabitants; in 1810, 46,487; and at
+present it contains 80,519. There are many fine buildings and monuments in
+this city; and the streets in which business is not extensively
+transacted, are planted with Lombardy poplar, locust, and pride-of-china
+trees,&mdash;the last mentioned especially afford a fine shade.</p>
+
+<p>A considerable schooner trade is carried on by the merchants of Baltimore
+with South America. The schooners of this port are celebrated for their
+beauty, and are much superior to those of any other port on the Continent.
+They are sharp built, somewhat resembling the small Greek craft one sees
+in the Mediterranean. A rail-road is being constructed from this place to
+the Ohio river, a distance of upwards of three hundred miles, <a name="Page_307"></a>and about
+fourteen miles of the road is already completed, as is also a viaduct. If
+the enterprising inhabitants of Baltimore be able to finish this
+undertaking, it must necessarily throw a very large amount of wealth into
+their hands, to the prejudice of Philadelphia and New York. But the
+expense will be enormous.</p>
+
+<p>I left Baltimore for Philadelphia in one of those splendid and spacious
+steam-boats peculiar to this country. We paddled up the Chesapeak bay
+until we came to Elk river&mdash;the scenery at both sides is charming. A
+little distance up this river commences the &quot;Chesapeak and Delaware
+canal,&quot; which passes through the old state of Delaware, and unites the
+waters of the two bays. Here we were handed into a barge, or what we in
+common parlance would term a large canal boat; but the Americans are the
+fondest people in the universe of big names, and ransack the Dictionary
+for the most pompous appellations with which to designate their <a name="Page_308"></a>works or
+productions. The universal fondness for European titles that obtains here,
+is also remarkable. The president, is &quot;his excellency,&quot;&mdash;&quot;congressmen,&quot;
+are &quot;honorables,&quot;&mdash;and every petty merchant, or &quot;dry-goods store-keeper,&quot;
+is, at least, an esquire. Their newspapers contain many specimens of this
+love of monarchical distinctions&mdash;such as, &quot;wants a situation, as
+store-keeper (shopman), a gentleman, &amp;c.&quot; &quot;Two gentlemen were convicted
+and sentenced to six months' imprisonment for horse-stealing, &amp;c.&quot; These
+two items I read myself in the papers of the western country, and the
+latter was commented on by a Philadelphia journal. You may frequently see
+&quot;Miss Amanda,&quot; without shoes or stockings&mdash;certainly for convenience or
+economy, not from necessity, and generally in Dutch houses&mdash;and &quot;that
+<i>ere</i> young lady&quot; scouring the pails! An accident lately occurred in one
+of the factories in New England, and the local paper stated, that &quot;one
+young lady was seriously <a name="Page_309"></a>injured,&quot;&mdash;this young lady was a spinner.
+Observe, I by no means object to the indiscriminate use of the terms
+<i>gentleman</i> and <i>lady</i>, but merely state the fact. On the contrary, so far
+am I from finding fault with the practice, that I think it quite fair;
+when any portion of republicans make use of terms which properly belong to
+a monarchy, that all classes should do the same, it being unquestionably
+their right. It does not follow, because a man may be introduced as an
+<i>American gentleman</i>, that he may not be simply a mechanic.</p>
+
+<p>The Chesapeak and Delaware canal is about fourteen miles in length; and
+from the nature of the soil through which it is cut, there was some
+difficulty attending the permanent security of the work. On reaching the
+Delaware, we were again handed into a steamer, and so conducted to
+Philadelphia. The merchant shipping, and the numerous pleasure and
+steam-boats, and craft of every variety, which are constantly moving on
+the <a name="Page_310"></a>broad bosom of the Delaware, present a gay and animated scene.</p>
+
+<p>Philadelphia is a regular well-built city, and one of the handsomest in
+the states. It lies in latitude 39&deg; 56' north, and longitude, west of
+London, 75&deg; 8'; distant from the sea, 120 miles. The city stands on an
+elevated piece of ground between the Schuylkill and Delaware rivers, about
+a mile broad from bank to bank, and six miles from their junction. The
+Delaware is about a mile wide at Philadelphia, and ships of the largest
+tonnage can approach the wharf. The city contains many fine buildings of
+Schuylkill marble. The streets are well paved, and have broad <i>trottoirs</i>
+of hard red brick. The police regulations are excellent, and cleanliness
+is much attended to, the kennels being washed daily during the summer
+months, with water from the reservoirs. The markets, or shambles, extend
+half-a-mile in length, from the wharf up Market-street, in six divisions.
+In addition to the shambles, farmers' waggons, loaded <a name="Page_311"></a>with every kind of
+country produce for sale, line the street.</p>
+
+<p>There are five banking establishments in the city: the Bank of North
+America, the United States Bank, the Bank of Pennsylvania, the Bank of
+Philadelphia, and the Farmers' Bank.</p>
+
+<p>The principal institutions are, the Franklin library, which contains
+upwards of 20,000 volumes. Strangers are admitted gratis, and are
+permitted to peruse any of the books. The Americans should adopt this
+practice in all their national exhibitions, and rather copy the liberality
+of the French than the sordid churlishness of the English, who compel
+foreigners to pay even for seeing the property of the nation. The other
+institutions are, the University of Pennsylvania, a College, Medical
+Theatre, College of Physicians, Philosophical Hall, Agricultural and
+Linnean Societies, Academy of Fine Arts, and the Cincinnati Society, which
+originated in an attempt to establish a sort of aristocracy. The members
+were at its formation the surviving officers of <a name="Page_312"></a>the revolution; they wear
+an eagle, suspended by a ribbon, which, at their death, they have
+appointed to be taken by their eldest sons. There are besides, the
+Academies of the Philadelphian Friends, and the German Lutherans; Sunday
+and Lancasterian schools; and, of course, divers Bible and Tract
+Societies, which are patronized by all the antiquated dames in the city,
+and superintended by the Methodist and Presbyterian parsons. The Methodist
+parsons of this country have the character of being men of gallantry; and
+indeed, from the many instances I have heard of their propensity in this
+way, from young Americans, I should be a very sceptic to doubt the fact.</p>
+
+<p>There are also St. George's, St. Patrick's, St. David's, and St. Andrew's
+Societies for the relief and colonization of British emigrants; a French
+and a German Emigrant Society, and several hospitals. There are two
+theatres and an amphitheatre. Peal's Museum contains a large collection,
+which <a name="Page_313"></a>is scientifically arranged; among other fossils is the perfect
+skeleton of a mammoth, found in a bed of marle in the state of New York.
+The length of this animal, from the bend of the tusks to the rump, was
+about twenty-seven feet, and the height and bulk proportionate.</p>
+
+<p>The navy-yard contains large quantities of timber, spars, and rigging,
+prepared for immediate use, as also warlike stores of every description.
+There is here, a ship of 140 guns, of large calibre, and a frigate. Both
+are housed completely, and in a condition to be launched in a few months,
+if necessary. They are constructed of the very best materials, and in the
+most durable and solid manner. There are now being constructed, seriatim,
+twenty-five ships of the line&mdash;one for every state in the Union. The
+government occasionally sells the smaller vessels of war to merchants, in
+order to increase the shipping, and to secure that those armed vessels
+which are afloat, may be in the finest <a name="Page_314"></a>possible condition. A corvette,
+completely equipped, was lately sold to his majesty the autocrat of the
+Russias; but was dismasted in a day or two after her departure from
+Charleston. She was taken in tow by the vessel of a New York merchant, and
+carried into the port of that city. The merchant refused any compensation
+from the Russian minister, although his vessel was, when she fell in with
+the wreck, proceeding to the Austral regions, and her putting about was
+greatly disadvantageous. The minister returned thanks publicly, on the
+part of his master, and expressed his majesty's sense of the invariable
+consideration and friendship with which his majesty's subjects are treated
+by the citizens of America. There appears to be a universal wish among the
+Americans to cultivate an alliance, offensive and defensive, with his
+majesty of Russia. The cry is, &quot;all the Russians want is a fleet, and
+we'll lend them that.&quot; In fact, a deadly animosity pervades America
+towards Great<a name="Page_315"></a> Britain; and although it is not publicly confessed, for the
+Americans are too able politicians to do that, yet it is no less certain,
+that &quot;<i>Delenda est Carthago</i>,&quot; is their motto. Let England look to it. Her
+power is great; but, if the fleets of America, France, and Russia, were to
+combine, and land on the shores of England hordes of Russians, and
+battalions of disciplined Frenchmen&mdash;if this were to be done, with the
+Irish people, instead of allies as they should be, her deadly enemies, her
+power is annihilated at a blow! For let it be remembered, that there is no
+rallying principle in the temperament of the mass of the English people;
+and that formerly one single victory,&mdash;the victory of Hastings, completely
+subjugated them. Hume, who was decidedly an impartial historian, is
+compelled to say of that conquest, &quot;It would be difficult to find in all
+history a revolution more destructive, or attended with a more complete
+subjection of the ancient inhabitants. Contumely seems <a name="Page_316"></a>even to have been
+wantonly added to oppression; and the natives were universally reduced to
+such a state of meanness and poverty, that the English name became a term
+of reproach; and several generations elapsed before one family of Saxon
+pedigree was raised to any considerable honours, or could so much as
+obtain the rank of baron of the realm.&quot;&mdash;Yet the English people owe much
+to the ancestors of the aristocracy, who introduced among them the arts
+and refinements of civilization, and by their wisdom and disciplined
+valour have raised the country to that pitch of greatness, so justly
+termed &quot;the envy of surrounding nations.&quot; I do not contend, that because a
+nation may have acquired the name of great, that therefore <i>the people</i>
+are more happy; but am rather inclined to think the contrary, for
+conquests are generally made and wealth is accumulated for the benefit of
+the few, and at the expense of the many.</p>
+
+<p>A law has been lately passed by the legis<a name="Page_317"></a>lature of Pennsylvania, taxing
+wholesale and retail dealers in merchandize, excepting those importers of
+foreign goods who vend the articles in the form in which they are
+imported. This act classes the citizens according to their annual amount
+of sales, and taxes them in the same proportion. Those who effect sales to
+the amount of fifty thousand dollars, constitute the first class; of forty
+thousand dollars, the second class; of thirty thousand dollars, the third
+class; of twenty thousand dollars, the fourth class; of fifteen thousand
+dollars, the fifth class; of ten thousand dollars, the sixth class; of
+five thousand dollars, the seventh class; and all persons effecting sales
+not exceeding two thousand five hundred dollars, constitute the eighth
+class. The first class shall pay for license, annually, fifty dollars; the
+second class, forty dollars; the third class, thirty dollars; the fourth
+class, twenty-five dollars; the fifth class, twenty dollars; the sixth
+class, fifteen dollars; the seventh class, twelve dollars and fifty cents,
+and the eighth class ten dollars.</p><a name="Page_318"></a>
+
+<p>Direct taxation has been found in all cases to be obnoxious, and this
+particular mode, I apprehend, is calculated to produce very pernicious
+effects. The laws of a republic should all tend to establish and support,
+as far as is practicable, the principle of equality, and any act that has
+a contrary tendency must be injurious to the community. Now this act draws
+a direct line of demarcation between citizens, in proportion to the extent
+of their dealings; and as in this country a man's importance is entirely
+estimated by his supposed wealth, the citizens of Pennsylvania can
+henceforth only claim a share of respectability, proportionate to the
+<i>class</i> to which they belong. The west country ladies have shewn a great
+aptitude for forming &quot;circles of society,&quot; and the promulgation of this
+law affords them a most powerful aid in establishing a <i>store-keeping
+aristocracy</i>.</p>
+
+<p>The large cities in America are by no means so lightly taxed as might be
+supposed from the cheapness of the government; the <a name="Page_319"></a>public works, public
+buildings, and police establishments, requiring adequate funds for their
+maintenance and support; however, the inhabitants have the consolation of
+knowing that this must gradually decrease, and that their money is laid
+out for their own advantage, and not for the purpose of pensioning off the
+mistresses and physicians of viceroys, as in Ireland.<a name="FNanchor_23_23"></a><a href="#Footnote_23_23"><sup>[23]</sup></a> Another thing is
+to be observed, that in addition to the <i>national</i> debt, each state has a
+<i>private</i> debt, which in many cases is tolerably large. These debts have
+been created by expenditures on roads, canals, and public buildings. The
+mode of taxation latterly adopted by the legislature is not popular, and
+many of the public prints have remonstrated against the system. &quot;The
+Philadelphia Gazette,&quot; of the 24th Sept. 1830, makes the following
+remarks&mdash;&quot;The subject of unequal and oppressive <a name="Page_320"></a>taxation deserves more
+attention than it has hitherto received from our citizens. The misery of
+England is occasioned less by the amount of revenue that is raised there,
+than by the manner in which it is raised. In Pennsylvania we are going on
+rapidly, making our state a second England in regard of debt and taxation.
+Our public debt is already 13,000,000 dollars; and before our canals and
+rail-roads shall be completed, it will probably amount to 18 or 20
+millions. The law imposing taxes of 10, 20, 30, 40 and 50 dollars on
+retailers, is not the only just subject of complaint. The <i>collateral
+inheritance</i> tax is equally unjust. The tavern-keepers are besides to be
+taxed from 20 to 50 dollars each. Nor does the matter end here. At the
+next session of the legislature, it will, in all probability, be found
+necessary to lay on additional taxes: and when the principle of unjust
+taxation is once admitted in legislation, it is difficult to say how far
+it will be carried.&quot;</p>
+<a name="Page_321"></a>
+<p>Whilst staying at Philadelphia an account of the French revolution
+arrived, and the merchants, there and at New York, were in high spirits,
+thinking that war was inevitable. A war in Europe is always hailed with
+delight in America, as it opens a field for commercial enterprise, and
+gives employment to the shipping, of which at present they are much in
+need.</p>
+
+<p>During the long and ruinous war in Europe, the mercantile and shipping
+interests of the United States advanced with an unexampled degree of
+rapidity. The Americans were then the carriers of nearly all Europe, and
+scarcely any merchandize entered the ports of the belligerent powers, but
+in American bottoms. This unnatural state of prosperity could not last:
+peace was established, and from that era the decline of commerce in the
+United States may be dated. The merchants seem not to have calculated on
+this event's so soon taking place, or to have overrated the increase of
+prosperity and popula<a name="Page_322"></a>tion in their own country, as up to that period, and
+for some years afterwards, there does appear to have been no relaxation of
+ship-building, and little diminution of mercantile speculations. At
+present the ship-owners are realizing little beyond the expenses of their
+vessels, and in many cases the bottoms are actually in debt. The frequent
+failures in the Atlantic cities, of late, are mainly to be attributed to
+unsuccessful ship speculations; and I am myself aware of more than one
+instance, where the freight was so extremely low, as to do little more
+than cover the expenditure of the voyage. On my return to Europe, while
+staying at Marseilles, twelve American vessels arrived in that port within
+the space of two months; and before my departure, nine of these returned
+to the United States with ballast (stones), and I believe only two with
+full cargos.</p>
+
+<p>In a national point of view, the difficulty of obtaining employment for
+the shipping of America may not have been so injurious as at <a name="Page_323"></a>first view
+it appears to be; on the contrary, I am of opinion that it has been
+advantageous. Whilst a profitable trade could with facility be carried on
+with and in Europe, the merchants seldom thought of extending their
+enterprises to any other parts of the world; but since the decline of that
+trade, communications have been opened with the East Indies, Africa, all
+the ports of the Mediterranean, and voyages to the Pacific, and to the
+Austral regions, are now of common occurrence. The museums in the Atlantic
+cities bear ample testimony to the enterprising character of the American
+merchants, which by their means are filled with all the curious and
+interesting productions of the East. This has encouraged a taste for
+scientific studies, and for travelling; which must ultimately tend to
+raise the nation to a degree of respectability little inferior to the
+oldest European state.</p><a name="Page_324"></a>
+
+<p>FOOTNOTES:</p>
+
+<a name="Footnote_23_23"></a><a href="#FNanchor_23_23">[23]</a><div class="note"><p> An Irish viceroy lately paid his physician by conferring on
+him a baronetcy, and a pension of two hundred pounds a year, of the public
+money.</p></div>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;">
+<a name="CHAPTER_XI"></a><h2><a name="Page_325"></a>CHAPTER XI</h2>
+<br>
+
+<p>Having sojourned for more than three weeks at Philadelphia, I departed for
+New York. The impressions made on my mind during that time were highly
+favourable to the Philadelphians and their city. It is the handsomest city
+in the Union; and the inhabitants, in sociability and politeness, have
+much the advantage of any other body of people with whom I came in
+contact.</p>
+
+<p>The steamer takes you up the Delaware river to Bordentown, in New Jersey,
+twenty-four miles from Philadelphia. The country at either side is in a
+high state of cultivation. It is interspersed with handsome country seats,
+and on the whole pre<a name="Page_326"></a>sents a most charming prospect. There is scarcely a
+single point passed up the windings of the Delaware, but presents a new
+and pleasing variety of landscape&mdash;luxuriant foliage&mdash;gently swelling
+hills, and fertile lawns; which last having been lately mown, were covered
+with a rich green sward most pleasing to the eye. The banks of the river
+at Bordentown are high, and the town, as seen from the water, has a pretty
+effect. Here a stage took us across New Jersey to Amboy. This is not a
+large town, nor can it ever be of much importance, being situated too near
+the cities of New York and Philadelphia. At Amboy we again took the
+steam-boat up the bay, and after a delightful sail of thirty miles,
+through scenery the most beautiful and magnificent, we arrived at New
+York.</p>
+
+<p>When I was at New York about fifteen months before, I was informed that
+the working classes were being organized into regular bodies, similar to
+the &quot;union of trades&quot; in England, for the purpose of retaining all
+poli<a name="Page_327"></a>tical power in their own hands. This organization has taken place at
+the suggestion of Frances Wright, of whom I shall again have occasion to
+speak presently, and has succeeded to an astonishing extent. There are
+three or four different bodies of the &quot;workies,&quot; as they call themselves
+familiarly, which vary somewhat from each other in their principles, and
+go different lengths in their attacks on the present institutions of
+society. There are those of them called &quot;agrarians,&quot; who contend that
+there should be a law passed to prohibit individuals holding beyond a
+certain quantity of ground; and that at given intervals of time there
+should be an equal division of property throughout the land. This is the
+most ultra, and least numerous class; the absurdity of whose doctrines
+must ultimately destroy them as a body. Various handbills and placards may
+be seen posted about the city, calling meetings of these unions. Some of
+those handbills are of a most extraordinary character <a name="Page_328"></a>indeed. I shall
+here insert a copy of one, which I took off a wall, and have now in my
+possession. It may serve to illustrate the character of those clubs.</p>
+
+<pre>
+THE CAUSE OF THE POOR.
+
+The Mechanics and other working men of the city of New York, and
+of <i>these</i> such and such only as live by their own useful
+industry, who wish to retain all political power in their own
+hands;
+
+WHO ARE IN FAVOUR OF                 AND WHO ARE OPPOSED TO
+
+A just compensation for labour,      Banks and Bankers,
+
+Abolishing imprisonment for debt,    Auctions and Auctioneers,
+
+An efficient lien law,               Monopolies and
+
+A general system of education;       Monopolists of all descriptions,
+  including food, clothing
+  and instruction, equal for all,    Brokers,
+  at the public expense, <i>without
+  separation of children from</i>        Lawyers, and
+  <i>parents,</i>
+                                     Rich men for office, and to all
+Exemption from sale by execution,      those, either rich or poor,
+  of mechanics' tools and              who favour them,
+  implements sufficiently
+  extensive to enable them to        Exemption of Property from
+  carry on business:                   Taxation:
+
+
+Are invited to assemble at the Wooster-street Military Hall, on
+Thursday evening next, 16th Sept., at eight o'clock, to select by
+Ballot, from among the persons proposed on the 6th Instant,
+Candidates for Governor, Lieutenant-Governor, Senator, and a New
+Committee of Fifty, and to propose Candidates for Register, for
+Members of Congress, and for Assembly.
+
+By order of the Committee of Fifty.
+
+JOHN R. SOPER, <i>Chairman</i>. JOHN TUTHILL, <i>Secretary</i>.</pre>
+
+<p>So far for the &quot;Workies;&quot; and now for Miss Wright. If I understand this
+lady's principles correctly, they are strictly Epicurean. She contends,
+that mankind have nothing whatever to do with any but this tangible
+world;&mdash;that the sole and only legitimate pursuit of man, is terrestrial
+happiness;&mdash;that looking forward to an ideal state of existence, diverts
+his attention from the pleasures of this life&mdash;destroys all real sympathy
+towards his fellow-creatures, and renders him callous to their sufferings.
+However different the <i>theories</i> of other systems may be, she contends
+that the <i>practice</i> of the world, in all ages and generations, shews that
+this is the <i>effect</i> of their inculcation.<a name="Page_330"></a> These are alarming doctrines;
+and when this lady made her <i>deb&ucirc;t</i> in public, the journals contended that
+their absurdity was too gross to be of any injury to society, and that in
+a few months, if she continued lecturing, it would be to empty benches.</p>
+
+<p>The editor of &quot;The New York Courier and Enquirer&quot; and she have been in
+constant enmity, and have never failed denouncing each other when
+opportunity offered. Miss Wright sailed from New York for France, where
+she still remains, in the month of July, 1830; and previous to her
+departure delivered an address, on which &quot;the New York Enquirer&quot; makes the
+following observations:&mdash;</p>
+
+<p>&quot;The parting address of Miss Wright at the Bowery Theatre, on Wednesday
+evening, was a singular <i>melange</i> of politics and impiety&mdash;eloquence and
+irreligion&mdash;bold invective, and electioneering slang. The theatre was very
+much crowded, probably three thousand persons being present; and what was
+the most <a name="Page_331"></a>surprising circumstance of the whole, is the fact, that about
+<i>one half of the audience were females&mdash;respectable females</i>.</p>
+
+<p>&quot;When Fanny first made her appearance in this city as a lecturer on the
+'new order of things,' she was very little visited by respectable females.
+At her first lecture in the Park Theatre, about half a dozen appeared; but
+these soon left the house. From that period till the present, we had not
+heard her speak in public; but her doctrines, and opinions, and
+philosophy, appear to have made much greater progress in the city than we
+ever dreamt of. Her fervid eloquence&mdash;her fine action&mdash;her <i>soprano-toned</i>
+voice&mdash;her bold and daring attacks upon all the present systems of
+society&mdash;and particularly upon priests, politicians, bankers, and
+aristocrats as she calls them, have raised a party around her of
+considerable magnitude, and of much fervour and enthusiasm.&quot;</p>
+
+<hr style="width: 45%;">
+
+<p>&quot;The present state of things in this city <a name="Page_332"></a>is, to say the least of it,
+very singular. A bold and eloquent woman lays siege to the very
+foundations of society&mdash;inflames and excites the public mind&mdash;declaims
+with vehemence against every thing religious and orderly, and directs the
+whole of her movements to accomplish the election of a ticket next fall,
+under the title of the 'working-man's ticket.'<a name="FNanchor_24_24"></a><a href="#Footnote_24_24"><sup>[24]</sup></a> She avows that her
+object is a thorough and radical reform and change in every relation of
+life&mdash;even the dearest and most sacred. Father, mother, husband, wife,
+son, and daughter, in all their delicate and endearing relationships, are
+to be swept away equally with clergymen, churches, banks, parties, and
+benevolent societies. Hundreds and hundreds of respectable families, by
+frequenting her lectures, give countenance and currency to these startling
+principles and doctrines. Nearly the whole newspaper press <a name="Page_333"></a>of the city
+maintain a death-like silence, while the great Red Harlot of Infidelity is
+madly and triumphantly stalking over the city, under the mantle of
+'working-men,' and making <i>rapid progress</i> in her work of ruin. If a
+solitary newspaper raise a word in favour of public virtue and private
+morals, in defence of the rights, liberties, and property of the
+community, it is denounced with open bitterness by some, and secretly
+stabbed at by them who wish to pass for good citizens. Miss Wright says
+she leaves the city soon. This is a mere <i>ruse</i> to call her followers
+around her. The effect of her lectures is already boasted of by her
+followers. 'Two years ago,' say they,&mdash;'<i>twenty persons</i> could scarcely be
+found in New York who would openly avow infidelity&mdash;now we have <i>twenty
+thousand</i>.&mdash;Is not that something?'</p>
+
+<p>&quot;We say it is something&mdash;something that will make the whole city think.&quot;</p>
+
+<p>On the day of my departure for Europe, is was announced to the merchants
+of New<a name="Page_334"></a> York, that the West India ports were opened to American vessels.</p>
+
+<p>This is a heavy blow to the interests of the British colonies; and it does
+not appear that even Great Britain <i>herself</i> has received any equivalent
+for inflicting so serious an injury on a portion of the empire by no means
+unimportant. The Canadians and Nova Scotians found a market for their
+surplus produce in the West Indies, for which they took in return the
+productions of these islands&mdash;thus a reciprocal advantage was derived to
+the sister colonies. But now, from the proximity of the West Indies to the
+Atlantic cities of the United States, American produce will be poured into
+these markets, for which, in return, little else than specie will be
+brought back to the ports of the Republic.</p>
+
+<p>It may be said, that an equivalent has been obtained by the removal of
+restrictions hitherto laid on British shipping. This I deny is any thing
+like an equivalent, as the trade with America is carried on almost
+exclusively <a name="Page_335"></a>in American bottoms. I particularly noted at New Orleans,
+Baltimore, Philadelphia, and New York, the paucity of British vessels in
+those ports; and ascertained that it was the practice among American
+merchants, who it must be observed are nearly all extensive ship-owners,
+to withhold cargos, even at some inconvenience, from foreign vessels, and
+await the arrival of those of their own country. I do not positively
+assert that the ships of <i>any other</i> nation are preferred to those of
+England; but, as far as my personal observations on that point have gone,
+I am strongly inclined to think that such is the fact.</p>
+
+<p>The mercantile and shipping interests of Great Britain must continue to
+decline, if the government suffers itself continually to be cajoled into
+measures of this nature, and effects treaties the advantages of which
+appear to be all on one side, and in lieu of its concessions receives no
+just equivalent; unless a little empty praise for &quot;liberal policy&quot; and
+&quot;generosity,&quot; can be so termed. I am well <a name="Page_336"></a>aware that it may have been of
+some small advantage to the West Indies to be enabled to obtain their
+supplies from the United States; but with reference to the policy of the
+measure, I speak only of the empire at large. Nearly all the Canadians
+with whom I conversed, freely acknowledged that they have not shaken off
+the yoke of England, only because they enjoyed some advantages by their
+connexion with her: but as these are diminished, the ties become loosened,
+and at length will be found too weak to hold them any longer. Disputes
+have already arisen between the people and the government relative to
+church lands, which appropriations they contend are unjust and dishonest.</p>
+
+<p>No doubt the question of tariff duties on the raw material imported into
+England, is one of great delicacy as connected with the manufacturing
+interests of the country; yet it does appear to me, that a small duty
+might without injury be imposed on American cottons <i>imported in American
+bottoms</i>. This <a name="Page_337"></a>would afford considerable encouragement to the shipping of
+Great Britain and her colonies, and could by no means be injurious to the
+manufacturing interests. The cottons of the Levant have been latterly
+increasing in quantity, and a measure of this nature would be likely to
+promote their further and rapid increase; which is desirable, as it would
+leave us less dependent on America, than we now are, for the raw material.
+The shipping of America is not held by the cotton-growing states; and
+although the nationality of the southerns is no doubt great, yet their
+love of self-interest is much greater, and would always preponderate in
+their choice of vessels. It would be even better, if found necessary, to
+make some arrangement in the shape of draw-back, than that a nation which
+has imposed a duty on our manufactured goods, almost amounting to a
+prohibition, should reap so much advantage from our system of &quot;liberal and
+generous&quot; policy. I shall conclude these <i>rambling</i> sketches <a name="Page_338"></a>by
+observing, that there are two things eminently remarkable in America: the
+one is, that every American from the highest to the lowest, thinks the
+Republican form of government <i>the best;</i> and the other, that the
+seditious and rebellious of all countries become there the most peaceable
+and contented citizens.</p>
+
+<p>We sailed from New York on the 1st of October, 1830. The monotony of a sea
+voyage, with unscientific people, is tiresome beyond description. The
+journal of a single day is the history of a month. You rise in the
+morning, and having performed the necessary ablutions, mount on
+deck,&mdash;&quot;Well Captain, how does she head?&quot;&mdash;&quot;South-east by east&quot;&mdash;(our
+course is east by south).&mdash;&quot;Bad, bad, Captain&mdash;two points off.&quot; You then
+promenade the quarter-deck, until the black steward arrests your
+progress&mdash;grins in your face, and announces breakfast. Down you go, and
+fall foul of ham, beef, <i>pommes de terre frites</i>, jonny-cakes, and <i>caf&eacute;
+sans lait;</i> and generally, in despite of bad cooking <a name="Page_339"></a>and occasional
+lee-lurches, contrive to eat an enormous meal. Breakfast being despatched,
+you again go on deck&mdash;promenade&mdash;gaze on the clouds&mdash;then read a little,
+if perchance you have books with you&mdash;lean over the gunwale, watching the
+waves and the motion of the vessel; but the eternal water, clouds, and
+sky&mdash;sky, clouds, and water, produce a listlessness that nothing can
+overcome. In the Atlantic, a ship in sight is an object which arouses the
+attention of all on board&mdash;to speak one is an &aelig;ra, and furnishes to the
+captain and mates a subject for the day's conversation. Thus situated, an
+occasional spell of squally weather is by no means uninteresting:&mdash;the
+lowering aspect of the sky&mdash;the foaming surges, which come rolling on,
+threatening to overwhelm the tall ship, and bury her in the fathomless
+abyss of the ocean&mdash;the laugh of the gallant tars, when a sea sweeps the
+deck and drenches them to the skin&mdash;all these incidents, united, rather
+amuse the voyager, <a name="Page_340"></a>and tend to dispel the inanity with which he is
+afflicted. During these periods, I have been for hours watching the
+motions of the &quot;stormy petrel&quot; (<i>procellaria pelagica</i>), called by
+sailors, &quot;mother Carey's chickens.&quot; These birds are seldom seen in calm
+weather, but appear to follow the gale, and when it blows most heavily
+they are seen in greatest numbers. The colour is brown and white; the size
+about that of the swallow, whose motions oh the wing they resemble. They
+skim over the surface of the roughest sea, gliding up and down the
+undulations with astonishing swiftness. When they observe their prey, they
+descend flutteringly, and place the feet and the tips of the wings on the
+surface of the water. In this position I have seen many of them rest for
+five or six seconds, until they had completed the capture. The petrel is
+to be seen in all parts of the Atlantic, no matter how distant from land;
+and the oldest seaman with whom I have conversed on the subject, never saw
+<a name="Page_341"></a>one of them rest. Humboldt says, that in the Northern Deserta, the
+petrels hide in rabbit burrows.</p>
+
+<p>A few days' sail brought us into the &quot;Gulf stream,&quot; the influence of which
+is felt as high as the 43&deg; north latitude. We saw a considerable quantity
+of <i>fucus natans</i>, or gulf weed, but it generally was so far from the
+vessel, that I could not contrive to procure a sprig. Mr. Luccock, in his
+Notes on Brazil, says, that &quot;if a nodule of this weed, taken fresh from
+the water at night, is hung up in a small cabin, it emits phosphorescent
+light enough to render objects visible.&quot; He describes the leaves of this
+plant as springing from the joints of the branches, oblong, indented at
+the edges, about an inch and a half long, and a quarter of an inch broad.
+Humboldt's description is somewhat different: he calls it the &quot;vine-leaved
+fucus;&quot; says, &quot;the leaves are circular, of a <i>tender</i> green, and indented
+at the edges, stem brown, and three inches long.&quot;&mdash;What I saw of this
+<a name="Page_342"></a>weed rather agrees with that described by Humboldt&mdash;the leaves were
+shaped like the vine leaf, and of a rusty-green colour. That portion of
+the Atlantic between the 22d and 34th parallels of latitude, and 26th and
+58th meridians of longitude, is generally covered with fuci, and is termed
+by the Portuguese, <i>mar do sargasso</i>, or grassy sea. It was supposed by
+many, from the large quantities of this weed seen in the Gulf stream, that
+it grew on the Florida rocks, and by the influence and extension of the
+current, was detached and carried into this part of the Atlantic. However,
+this position is not tenable, as a single branch of fucus has never been
+found on the Florida reef. Humboldt, and other scientific men, are of
+opinion that this weed vegetates at the bottom of the ocean&mdash;that being
+detached from its root, it rises to the surface; and that such portion of
+it as is found in the stream, is drawn thither by the sweeping of the
+current along the edge of the weedy sea. Moreover, the fuci that are
+<a name="Page_343"></a>found in the northern extremity of the Florida stream are generally
+decayed, while those which are seen in the southern extremity appear quite
+fresh&mdash;this difference would not exist if they emanated from the Gulf.</p>
+
+<p>We stood to the north of the Azores, with rather unfavourable winds, and
+at length came between the coast of Africa and Cape St. Vincent. Here we
+had a dead calm for four entire days. The sky was perfectly cloudless, and
+the surface of the ocean was like oil. Not being able to do better, we got
+out the boat and went turtle fishing, or rather catching, in company with
+a very fine shark, which thought proper to attend us during our excursion.
+In such weather the turtles come to the surface of the water to sleep and
+enjoy the solar heat, and if you can approach without waking them, they
+fall an easy prey, being rendered incapable of resistance by their shelly
+armour. We took six. Attached to the breast of one was a remora, or
+&quot;sucking fish.&quot; The length of this animal is from <a name="Page_344"></a>six to eight
+inches&mdash;colour blackish&mdash;body, scaleless and oily&mdash;head rather flat, on
+the back of which is the sucker, which consists of a narrow oval-shaped
+margin with several transverse projections, and ten curved rays extending
+towards the centre, but not meeting. The Indians of Jamaica and Cuba
+employed this fish as falconers do hawks. In calm weather, they carried
+out those which they had kept and fed for the purpose, in their canoes,
+and when they had got to a sufficient distance, attached the remora to the
+head of the canoe by a strong line of considerable length. When the remora
+perceives a fish, which he can do at a considerable distance, he darts
+away with astonishing rapidity, and fastens upon it. The Indian lets go
+the line, to which a buoy is attached to mark the course the remora has
+taken, and follows in his canoe until he thinks the game is exhausted; he
+then draws it gradually in, the remora still adhering to his prey. Oviedo
+says, &quot;I have known a <a name="Page_345"></a>turtle caught by this method, of a bulk and weight
+which no single man could support.&quot;</p>
+
+<p>For four days we were anxiously watching for some indications of a breeze,
+but were so frequently deceived with &quot;cat's paws,&quot; and the occasional
+slight flickering of the dog vane, that we sank into listless resignation.
+At length our canvass filled, and we soon came within sight of the Straits
+of Gibraltar. On our left was the coast of Spain, with its vineyards and
+white villages; and on our right lay the sterile hills of Barbary.
+Opposite Cape Trafalgar is Cape Spartel, a bold promontory, on the west
+side of which is a range of basaltic pillars. The entrance to the
+Mediterranean by the Straits, when the wind is unfavourable, is extremely
+difficult; but to pass out is almost impossible, the current continually
+setting in through the centre of the passage. Hence, onwards, the sail was
+extremely pleasant, being within sight of the Spanish coast, and the
+Islands of Yvica, Majorca, and Minorca, successively, until we <a name="Page_346"></a>reached
+the Gulf of Lyons. When the northerly wind blows, which, in Provence, is
+termed the <i>mistral</i>, the waves roll against the coast of Provence, and
+the recoil produces that ugly chopping sea for which this gulf is
+renowned. In the Mediterranean, even in the calmest weather, a light
+pleasant breeze springs up after sunset; this and the cloudless sky, and
+unobscured brilliancy of the stars, are attractions sufficient to allure
+the most somnolent and unromantic mortal to remain on deck.</p>
+
+<p>The molusca, or oceanic insect, which emits a phosphorescent light,
+appeared here in vast quantities, which induced me to try experiments. I
+took a piece of black crape, and having folded it several times, poured
+some sea water taken fresh in a bucket, upon it: the water in the bucket,
+when agitated by the hand, gave out sparkling light. When the crape was
+thoroughly saturated with water, I took it to a dark part of the cabin,
+when it seemed to be studded with small <a name="Page_347"></a>sparkling stars; but more of the
+animals I could not then discern. Next day I put some water in a glass
+tumbler, and having exposed it to a strong solar light, with the help of a
+magnifying glass was enabled distinctly to discern the molusc&aelig;. When
+magnified, they appeared about the size of a pin's head, of a yellowish
+brown colour, rather oval-shaped, and having tentacul&aelig;. The medusa is a
+genus of molusca; and I think M. le Seur told me he reckons forty-three or
+forty-four species of that genus.</p>
+
+<p>We crossed the Gulf of Lyons, and came within the road of Marseilles,
+where we were taken charge of by a pilot. When we reached the mouth of the
+basin, a boat came alongside of us, and a man handed up a piece of wood,
+and said, &quot;Mettez sur cela le nom du capitaine et du batiment;&quot;&mdash;we were
+to perform quarantine. Whoever has performed quarantine can commiserate
+our condition. No one can quit the quarantine ground, or rather the space
+in the harbour alloted to vessels <a name="Page_348"></a>performing quarantine. If it be
+necessary to send any papers from the ship on shore, they are taken with a
+forceps and plunged into vinegar. If the sails of any other vessel touch
+those of one in quarantine, she too must undergo several days' probation.
+Our time was five days; but as we had clean bills of health, and had lost
+none of our crew on the passage, we were allowed to count the day of our
+entering and the day of our going out of quarantine. The usual ceremonies
+being performed, I again stepped on European ground, and felt myself at
+home.</p>
+
+<p>FOOTNOTES:</p>
+
+<a name="Footnote_24_24"></a><a href="#FNanchor_24_24">[24]</a><div class="note"><p> The &quot;Education ticket,&quot; that of the &quot;workies,&quot; carried every
+thing before it in New York and the adjoining states, at the election of
+members of congress, &amp;c.</p></div>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;">
+<a name="APPENDIX"></a><h2><a name="Page_349"></a>APPENDIX</h2>
+
+<br><a name="Page_350"></a>
+
+<p><a name="Page_351"></a>NEW CENSUS OF THE UNITED STATES.</p>
+
+<p>An abstract of a &quot;careful revision of the enumeration of the United States
+for the years 1790, 1800, 1810, 1820, and 1830,&quot; compiled at the
+Department of State, agreeably to law; and an ABSTRACT from the Aggregate
+Returns of the several Marshals of the United States of the &quot;Fifth
+Census.&quot;</p>
+
+
+<table align="center" border="1" cellpadding="2" cellspacing="0" summary="Census Figures">
+<tr><td align="left">STATES.</td><td align="center">1790.</td><td align="center">1800.</td><td align="center">1810.</td><td align="center">1820.</td><td align="center">1830.</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">Maine</td><td align="right">96,540</td><td align="right">151,719</td><td align="right">228,705</td><td align="right">298,335</td><td align="right">399,463</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">New Hampshire</td><td align="right">141,899</td><td align="right">183,762</td><td align="right">214,360</td><td align="right">244,161</td><td align="right">269,533</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">Massachusetts</td><td align="right">378,717</td><td align="right">423,243</td><td align="right">472,040</td><td align="right">523,287</td><td align="right">610,014</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">Rhode Island</td><td align="right">69,110</td><td align="right">69,122</td><td align="right">77,031</td><td align="right">83,059</td><td align="right">97,210</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">Connecticut</td><td align="right">258,141</td><td align="right">231,002</td><td align="right">262,042</td><td align="right">275,202</td><td align="right">297,011</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">Vermont</td><td align="right">85,416</td><td align="right">154,465</td><td align="right">217,713</td><td align="right">233,764</td><td align="right">280,679</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">New York</td><td align="right">340,120</td><td align="right">586,756</td><td align="right">959,049</td><td align="right">1,372,812</td><td align="right">1,913,508</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">New Jersey</td><td align="right">184,139</td><td align="right">211,949</td><td align="right">245,555</td><td align="right">277,575</td><td align="right">320,778</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">Pennsylvania</td><td align="right">434,373</td><td align="right">602,365</td><td align="right">810,091</td><td align="right">1,049,458</td><td align="right">1,347,672</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">Delaware</td><td align="right">59,096</td><td align="right">64,273</td><td align="right">72,674</td><td align="right">72,749</td><td align="right">76,739</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">Maryland</td><td align="right">319,728</td><td align="right">341,548</td><td align="right">380,546</td><td align="right">407,350</td><td align="right">446,913</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">D. Columbia</td><td align="right">&mdash;</td><td align="right">14,093</td><td align="right">24,023</td><td align="right">33,039</td><td align="right">39,588</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">Virginia</td><td align="right">748,308</td><td align="right">880,200</td><td align="right">974,622</td><td align="right">1,065,379</td><td align="right">1,211,266</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">N. Carolina</td><td align="right">393,751</td><td align="right">478,103</td><td align="right">555,500</td><td align="right">638,829</td><td align="right">738,470</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">S. Carolina</td><td align="right">249,073</td><td align="right">345,591</td><td align="right">415,115</td><td align="right">502,741</td><td align="right">581,458</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">Georgia</td><td align="right">82,548</td><td align="right">162,101</td><td align="right">252,433</td><td align="right">340,987</td><td align="right">516,504</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">Kentucky</td><td align="right">73,077</td><td align="right">220,955</td><td align="right">406,511</td><td align="right">564,317</td><td align="right">688,844</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">Tennessee</td><td align="right">35,791</td><td align="right">105,602</td><td align="right">231,727</td><td align="right">422,813</td><td align="right">684,822</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">Ohio</td><td align="right">&mdash;</td><td align="right">45,365</td><td align="right">230,760</td><td align="right">581,434</td><td align="right">937,679</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">Indiana</td><td align="right">&mdash;</td><td align="right">4,875</td><td align="right">24,520</td><td align="right">147,178</td><td align="right">341,582</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">Mississippi</td><td align="right">&mdash;</td><td align="right">8,850</td><td align="right">40,352</td><td align="right">75,448</td><td align="right">136,806</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">Illinois</td><td align="right">&mdash;</td><td align="right">&mdash;</td><td align="right">12,233</td><td align="right">55,211</td><td align="right">157,575</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">Louisiana</td><td align="right">&mdash;</td><td align="right">&mdash;</td><td align="right">76,556</td><td align="right">153,407</td><td align="right">215,791</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">Missouri</td><td align="right">&mdash;</td><td align="right">&mdash;</td><td align="right">20,845</td><td align="right">66,586</td><td align="right">140,084</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">Alabama</td><td align="right">&mdash;</td><td align="right">&mdash;</td><td align="right">&mdash;</td><td align="right">127,902</td><td align="right">309,206</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">Michigan</td><td align="right">&mdash;</td><td align="right">&mdash;</td><td align="right">4,762</td><td align="right">8,896</td><td align="right">31,123</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">Arkansas</td><td align="right">&mdash;</td><td align="right">&mdash;</td><td align="right">&mdash;</td><td align="right">14,273</td><td align="right">30,383</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">Florida</td><td align="right">&mdash;</td><td align="right">&mdash;</td><td align="right">&mdash;</td><td align="right">&mdash;</td><td align="right">34,725</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left"></td><td align="right">3,929,827</td><td align="right">5,305,925</td><td align="right">7,289,314</td><td align="right">9,638,131</td><td align="right">12,856,437</td></tr></table>
+
+<br>
+
+<h5>INCREASE FROM 1820 TO 1830.</h5>
+
+
+<table align="center" border="1" cellpadding="2" cellspacing="0" summary="">
+<tr><td align="left"></td><td align="left">Per Cent.</td><td align="left"></td><td align="left">Per Cent.</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">Maine</td><td align="right">33,398</td><td align="left">S. Carolina</td><td align="right">15,657</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">N. Hampshire</td><td align="right">10,391</td><td align="left">Georgia</td><td align="right">51,472</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">Massachusetts</td><td align="right">16,575</td><td align="left">Kentucky</td><td align="right">22,066</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">Rhode Island</td><td align="right">17,157</td><td align="left">Tennessee</td><td align="right">62,044</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">Connecticut</td><td align="right">8,151</td><td align="left">Ohio</td><td align="right">61,998</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">Vermont</td><td align="right">19,005</td><td align="left">Indiana</td><td align="right">132,087</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">New York</td><td align="right">39,386</td><td align="left">Mississippi</td><td align="right">81,032</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">New Jersey</td><td align="right">15,564</td><td align="left">Illinois</td><td align="right">185,406</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">Pennsylvania</td><td align="right">25,416</td><td align="left">Louisiana</td><td align="right">40,665</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">Delaware</td><td align="right">5,487</td><td align="left">Missouri</td><td align="right">110,380</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">Maryland</td><td align="right">9,712</td><td align="left">Alabama</td><td align="right">141,574</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">D. Columbia</td><td align="right">20,639</td><td align="left">Michigan</td><td align="right">250,001</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">Virginia</td><td align="right">13,069</td><td align="left">Arkansas</td><td align="right">113,273</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">N. Carolina</td><td align="right">15,592</td><td align="left">Florida</td><td align="right">&mdash;</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="left">Average</td><td align="right">32,392</td></tr>
+</table>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;">
+<a name="EXTRACTS"></a><h2><a name="Page_353"></a>EXTRACTS</h2>
+
+<p>FROM</p>
+
+<p>&quot;THE CHEROKEE PHOENIX,&quot;</p>
+
+<p>OF JULY 31, 1830.</p>
+
+<p><i>The following is part of a Letter written by a Creek Chief, from the
+Arkansas territory.</i></p>
+
+<p>&quot;The son of General M'Intosh, (an Indian chief), with the M'Intosh party,
+held a treaty with the government, and were induced, by promises, to
+remove to Arkansas. They were promised 'a home for ever,' if they would
+select one, and that bounds should be marked off to them. This has not
+been done. They were assured that they should draw a proportionate part of
+the annuity due to the Creek nation every year. They have planted corn
+three seasons&mdash;yet they have never drawn one cent of any annuity due to
+them! Why is this? They were promised blankets, guns, ammunition, traps,
+kettles, and a <i>wheelwright</i>. They have drawn some few of each class of
+articles, and only a few&mdash;they have no wheelwright. They were poor;&mdash;but
+above this, they were promised pay for the improvements abandoned by them
+in <a name="Page_354"></a>the old nation. This they have not received. They were further assured
+that they should receive, upon their arrival on Arkansas, <i>thirty dollars</i>
+per head for each emigrant. This they have not received. But the acting
+sub-agent, in the spring 1829, finding their wants very pressing (indeed
+many of them were in a famishing condition), gave to each one his due
+bill, in the name of the agent, for the amount of bounty due them, and
+took their receipts for the amount, as vouchers for the agent, to settle
+his account by with the government. The consequence was, that the Indians,
+not regarding paper as of any real value, would go to the traders, and
+sell the due bills at what they could get for them. And the traders having
+no confidence in the promises of the government through its agents, united
+with the hazard of delay at all events, would not give the real value of
+the amount promised by the due bills. If the Indians attempted to trade
+them to the whites for cattle, or any thing which they stood in need of,
+the consequence was, that they were compelled to make a discount upon
+them. Not finding them worth as many dollars as they purported to be for,
+they were willing to let them go upon any terms, rather than keep them in
+their possession. The due bills amounted, in all, to about <i>twenty-one
+thousand dollars</i>, which due bills are now in the hands of the original
+holders, or the purchasers, but not lifted by the agent according to his
+promise. (Is not the government bound <a name="Page_355"></a>by the acts of its agent or
+attorney?). It is but fair to estimate the loss of the Indians at one
+third of the sum above stated, and this loss owing entirely to the
+government, by its agent's withholding the fulfilment of its contract with
+the M'Intosh party.</p>
+
+<hr style="width: 45%;">
+
+<p>&quot;Mr. Joseph Brearly was left here by his father, the agent, in charge of
+his affairs, and being apprised of a party of <i>emigrants</i> about to arrive,
+was making preparations to obtain the provisions necessary to subsist them
+for one year; and for that purpose had advertised to supply six thousand
+bushels of corn. The day came for closing the contract, when Colonel
+Arbuckle, commanding Cantonment Gibson, handed in a bid, in the name of
+the Creek nation, to furnish the amount of corn required at <i>one dollar
+and twelve cents</i> per bushel; the next lowest bid to his was <i>one dollar
+and fifty cents</i>; so that Colonel Arbuckle saved the government 2,280
+dollars.</p>
+
+<hr style="width: 45%;">
+
+<p>&quot;Mr. Blake, the sub-agent sent by Colonel Crowell, had superseded Mr.
+Brearly, and was engaged in giving his receipts for the corn delivered
+under the contract. A speculation was presented; and as the poor Indians
+were to be the victims of rapacity, why, it was all very well. The
+aforesaid Major Love, to secure the speculation, repaired to St. Louis,
+with <i>letters of credit</i> from Mr. Blake, the sub-agent of Colonel Crowell,
+and purchased <a name="Page_356"></a>several thousand dollars' worth of merchandize, and so soon
+as he could reach the Creek agency, commenced purchasing the corn receipts
+issued by the sub-agent. It is reasonable to suppose that the goods were
+sold, on an average, at two hundred per centum above cost and carriage;
+and by this means the Indians would get about one third of the value of
+their corn at the contract price!&mdash;they offered to let the receipts go at
+twenty-five per cent. discount, if they could only obtain cash for them.</p>
+
+<p>&quot;The United States owe the Creeks money&mdash;they have paid them none in three
+years&mdash;the money has been appropriated by congress. It is withheld by the
+agents. The Indians are destitute of almost every comfort for the want of
+what is due to them. If it is longer withheld from them, it can only be
+so, upon the grounds that the poor Indian, who is unable to compel the
+United States to a compliance with solemn treaties, must linger out a
+miserable degraded existence, while those who have power to extend to him
+the measure of justice, will be left in the <i>full</i> possession of <i>all</i> the
+<i>complacency</i> arising from the solemn <i>assurance</i>, that they are either
+the <i>stupid</i> or <i>guilty</i> authors of his degradation and misery.</p>
+
+<p>&quot;TAH-LOHN-TUS-KY.</p>
+
+<p>&quot;P.S. The Creeks have sent frequent memorials, praying relief from the War
+Department; also a delegation, but can obtain no relief!!&quot;</p><a name="Page_357"></a>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;">
+<a name="Extract_from_a_Communication_made_by_a_Cherokee_Chief"></a><h2><i>Extract from a Communication made by a Cherokee Chief.</i></h2>
+<br>
+
+<p>&quot;A company of whites was in this neighbourhood, with forged notes and
+false accounts to a very considerable amount upon the Indians, and
+forcibly drove off the property of several families. This, Sir, is the
+cause of our misery, poverty, and degradation, for which we have been so
+much reproached. This is what makes us <i>poor devils</i>. If we fail to make
+good crops, some of the white neighbours must starve, for many of them are
+dependent upon us for support, either by fair or foul means. Some of the
+poor creatures are now travelling among us, almost starved, begging for
+something to eat&mdash;they are actually worse than Indians. If they can't get
+by begging, they steal. To make us clear of these evils, and make us happy
+for ever, the unabating avarice of some of the Georgians, by their
+repeated acts of cruelty, point us to homes in the west&mdash;but as long as we
+have a pony or a hog to spare them, we will never go, and not then. This
+land is heaven's gift to us&mdash;it is the birthright of our fathers: as long
+as these mountains lift their lofty summits to heaven, and these beautiful
+rivers roll their tides to the mighty ocean, so long we will remain. May
+heaven pity and save our distressed country!</p>
+
+<p>&quot;VALLEY TOWNS.&quot;</p><a name="Page_358"></a>
+<br>
+
+<p>The following Extracts may serve to show the state of the country to which
+the Indians are compelled to emigrate:</p>
+
+<p>[FROM THE KENTUCKY INTELLIGENCER.]</p>
+
+<p><i>Extract of a Letter, dated Prairie du Chien.</i></p>
+
+<p>&quot;January 15, 1830.</p>
+
+<p>&quot;There is a prospect, I think, that the Indian department in this part of
+the country will soon require efficient officers. There is little doubt
+that there will be a general and sanguinary war among the Indians in the
+spring. The outrages of the Sauks and Foxes, can be endured no longer.
+Within a short time, they have cut off the head of a young Munomonee
+Indian, at the mouth of Winconscin river&mdash;killed a Winnebago woman and
+boy, of the family of Dekaree, and a Sioux called Dixon. The whole Sioux
+nation have made arrangements for a general and simultaneous attack on the
+Foxes; the Winnebagoes, and probably the Munomonees will join them.&quot;</p><a name="Page_359"></a>
+<br>
+
+<p>&quot;Little Rock, Ark. Ter. Feb. 5.</p>
+
+<p>&quot;<i>Murderous Battle.</i>&mdash;A gentleman who arrived here yesterday, direct from
+the Western Creek agency, informs us that a war party of Osages returned
+just before he left the agency, from a successful expedition against the
+Pawnee Indians. He was informed by one of the chiefs, that the party
+seized a Pawnee village, high up on the Arkansas, and had surrounded it
+before the inmates were apprised of their approach. At first the Pawnees
+showed a disposition to resist; but finding themselves greatly outnumbered
+by their assailants, soon sallied forth from their village, and took
+refuge on the margin of a lake, where they again made a stand. Here they
+were again hemmed in by the Osages, who throwing away their guns, fell
+upon them with their knives and tomahawks, and did not cease the work of
+butchery as long as any remained to resist them. Not one escaped. All were
+slain, save a few who were taken prisoners, and who are perhaps destined
+to suffer a more cruel death than those who were butchered on the spot.
+Our informant did not learn what number of Pawnees were killed, but
+understood that the Osages brought in sixty or seventy scalps, besides
+several prisoners.</p>
+
+<p>&quot;We also learn, that the Osages are so much elated with this victory, that
+another war party were preparing to go on an expedition against some
+Choctaws who reside on Red river, with whom they have been at variance for
+some time past.&quot;</p><a name="Page_360"></a>
+<br>
+
+<p><i>Extract of a Letter from an Officer of the Army, dated Prairie du Chien.</i></p>
+
+<p>[FROM THE NEW YORK COM. ADVERTIZER.]</p>
+
+<p>&quot;May 6, 1830.</p>
+
+<p>&quot;<i>Indian Hostilities.</i>&mdash;When coming down the Mississippi, on the raft of
+timber, a war party of Sioux came to me and landed on the raft, but did
+not offer any violence. They were seventy strong, and well armed; and when
+they arrived at the Prairie, they were joined by thirty Menominees, and
+then proceeded down the river in pursuit of the Sauks and Foxes, who lay
+below. This morning they all returned, and reported that they had killed
+ten of the Foxes and two squaws. I saw all the scalps and other trophies
+which they had taken; such as canoes, tomahawks, knives, guns, war clubs,
+spears, &amp;c. A paddle was raised by them in the air, on which was strung
+the head of a squaw and the scalps. They killed the head chief of the Fox
+nation, and took from them all the treaties which the nation had made
+since 1815. I saw them, and read such as I wished. One Sioux killed, and
+three wounded, was all the loss of the northern party. The Winnebagoes
+have joined with the Sioux and Menominees, and the Potawatomies have
+joined with the Sauks and Foxes. We shall have a great battle in a day or
+two.&quot;</p>
+<br>
+<br>
+<hr class="full" noshade>
+<br>
+<br>
+<p>***END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK A RAMBLE OF SIX THOUSAND MILES THROUGH THE UNITED STATES OF AMERICA***</p>
+<p>******* This file should be named 11725-h.txt or 11725-h.zip *******</p>
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+The Project Gutenberg eBook, A Ramble of Six Thousand Miles through the
+United States of America, by S. A. Ferrall
+
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+
+
+
+Title: A Ramble of Six Thousand Miles through the United States of America
+
+Author: S. A. Ferrall
+
+Release Date: March 26, 2004  [eBook #11725]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: US-ASCII
+
+
+***START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK A RAMBLE OF SIX THOUSAND MILES
+THROUGH THE UNITED STATES OF AMERICA***
+
+
+E-text prepared by Project Gutenberg Distributed Proofreaders
+
+
+
+A RAMBLE OF SIX THOUSAND MILES THROUGH THE UNITED STATES OF AMERICA
+
+BY S. A. FERRALL, ESQ.
+
+LONDON, 1832
+
+
+
+
+
+
+[Illustration: _Fac-simile of the first two Paragraphs of the Leading
+Article in the "CHEROKEE PHOENIX" of July 31, 1830_]
+
+
+
+PREFACE.
+
+
+The few sketches contained in this small volume were not originally
+intended for publication--they were written solely for the amusement of my
+immediate acquaintances, and were forwarded to Europe in the shape of
+letters. Subsequent considerations have induced me to publish them; and if
+they be found to contain remarks on some subjects, which other travellers
+in America have passed over unnoticed, the end that I have in view will be
+fully answered.
+
+Although I remained in the seaboard cities sufficiently long to have
+collected much information; yet knowing that the statistics of those
+places had been so often and so ably set before the public, I felt no
+inclination to trouble my friends with their repetition.
+
+In Europe, the name of America is so associated with the idea of
+emigration, that to announce an intention of crossing the Atlantic, rouses
+the interfering propensity of friends and acquaintances, and produces such
+a torrent of queries and remonstrances, as will require a considerable
+share of moral courage to listen to and resist. All are on the tiptoe of
+expectation, to hear what the inducements can possibly be for travelling
+in America. America!! every one exclaims--what can you possibly see there?
+A country like America--little better than a mere forest--the inhabitants
+notoriously far behind Europeans in refinement--filled with wild Indians,
+rattle-snakes, bears, and backwoodsmen; ferocious hogs and ugly negros;
+and every other species of noxious and terrific animal!
+
+Without, however, any definite scientific object, or indeed any motive
+much more important than a love of novelty, I determined on visiting
+America; within whose wide extent all the elements of society, civilized
+and uncivilized, were to be found--where the great city could be traced to
+the infant town--where villages dwindle into scattered farms--and these to
+the log-house of the solitary backwoodsman, and the temporary wig-wam of
+the wandering Pawnee.
+
+I have refrained nearly altogether from touching on the domestic habits
+and manners of the Americans, because they have been treated of by
+Captain Hall and others; and as the Americans always allowed me to act as
+I thought proper, and even to laugh at such of their habits as I thought
+singular, I am by no means inclined to take exception to them.
+
+
+
+
+CONTENTS.
+
+
+CHAPTER I.
+
+Sail for New York in an American vessel--the crew--ostentation of the
+Captain--a heavy gale--soundings--icebergs--bay of New York--Negros and
+Negresses--White Ladies--climate--fires--vagrant pigs--Frances
+Wright--Match between an Indian canoe and a skiff
+
+
+CHAPTER II.
+
+Depart for Albany--the Hudson--Albany--Cohoe's Falls--Rome--the Little
+Falls--forest of charred trees--"stilly night" in a swamp--fire
+fly--Rochester--Falls of Gennessee--Sam. Patch--an eccentric
+character--Falls of Niagara--the Tuscarora Indians--Buffalo--Lake
+Erie--the Iroquois--the Wyandots--death of Seneca John, and its
+consequences--ague fever--Wyandot prairie--the Delawares' mode of dealing
+with the Indians--the transporting of Negros to Canada
+
+
+CHAPTER III.
+
+Arrive at Marion--divorces--woodlands--Columbus--land offices--population,
+&c. Shaking Quakers--kidnapping free Negros--Cincinnati--the farmers of
+Ohio--a corn-husking frolic--qualifications necessary to Senators,
+Legislators, and Electors--a camp-meeting--militia officers'
+muster--Presbyterian parsons--price of land, cattle, &c.--fever and ague
+
+
+CHAPTER IV.
+
+Set out for New Harmony--the roads--a backwoodsman--the
+journey--peaches--casualties--travelling--New Harmony--M. Le
+Seur--barter--excursion down the Wabash--the co-operative
+community--Robert Owen
+
+
+CHAPTER V.
+
+Depart for St. Louis--Albion--the late Messrs. Birkbeck and
+Flowers--Hardgrove's prairie--the roads--the Grand prairie--prairie
+wolf--mode of training dogs--Elliott's inn--inhabitants of
+Illinois--ablutions--coal--soil and produce--the American Bottom--St
+Louis--monopolies--Fur companies--incivility of a certain Major--trapping
+expedition--trade with Santa Fe--lead mines--Carondalot--Jefferson
+barracks--discipline--visit to a slave-holder--the Ioway hostages--Indian
+investigation--character of the Indians.
+
+
+CHAPTER VI
+
+Leave St. Louis--Indian mounds--remains of ancient fortifications--burial
+caverns--mummies--Flint's description of a mummy--the languages of
+America--town making--the Indian summer--population, &c. of Illinois--the
+prairie hen--the Turkey buzzard--settlers--forest in autumn--a gouging
+scrape--the country--extent and population of Indiana--hogs--a settler in
+bottom land--the sugar maple--roads--a baptism
+
+
+CHAPTER VII
+
+Set out for New Orleans--Louisville--Mississippi steam-boats--the
+Ohio--the Mississippi--sugar plantations--the valley of the
+Mississippi--New Orleans--Quadroons--slavery--a Methodist slavite--runaway
+Negros--incendiary fires at Orleans--liberty of the press--laws passed by
+the legislature of Louisiana--Miss Wright--public schools--yellow
+fever--the Texas
+
+
+CHAPTER VIII.
+
+Depart for Louisville--tellandsea, or Spanish moss--Natchez--the yellow
+fever--cotton plantations--Mississippi wood-cutters--freshets--planters,
+sawyers, and snags--steam-boat blown up--the Chickesaws--hunting in
+Tennessee--electioneering--vote by ballot--trade on the Ohio and
+Mississippi rivers--the People--the President's veto--finances--government
+banks--Kentucky--the Kentuckians--court-houses--an election--universal
+suffrage--an Albino--Diluvian reliqua
+
+
+CHAPTER IX.
+
+The political condition of the Indians--Missionaries--the letter of
+Red-jacket--the speech of the wandering Pawnee chief
+
+
+CHAPTER X.
+
+Kenhawa salt-works--coal--a
+Radical--rattle-snakes--Baltimore--Philadelphia--taxation--shipping
+
+
+CHAPTER XI.
+
+"The Workies"--Miss Wright--the opening of the West India ports to
+American vessels--voyage homeward--the stormy petrel--Gulf weed--the
+remora--the molusca--quarantine
+
+
+APPENDIX
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER I.
+
+
+Following the plan I had laid down for myself, I sought and found a goodly
+Yankee merchantman, bound for and belonging to the city of New York. Our
+vessel was manned with a real _American_ crew, that is, a crew, of which
+scarcely two men are of the same nation--which conveys a tolerably correct
+notion of the population of the United States. The crew consisted of one
+Russian, one German, one Italian, one Scotchman, one Newfoundlander, one
+Irishman, two Englishmen, two New Englanders, and two Negros--the cook and
+steward. The seamen of America are better paid, and better protected,
+than those of any other nation; but work harder, and must understand their
+duty well. Indeed if we had not had a good crew, our ship, being old,
+might have suffered severely.
+
+In selecting this ship, in addition to accommodations, I only took into
+account her build; and so far was not disappointed, for when she _could_
+carry sail, she scudded along in gallant style; but with ships as with
+horses, the more they _have done_, the less they have _to do_.
+
+I had a strong impression on my mind that a person travelling in America
+as a professed tourist, would be unable to form a correct estimate of the
+real character and condition of the people; for, from their great
+nationality, they would be likely to show him the best side of every
+thing. Of this kind of ostentation I very soon had a slight proof. Our
+ship left port in gallant trim, but had no sooner gained the open sea,
+than all hands were employed in stowing away the finery, and covering the
+rigging with mats--even the very cabin doors were taken off the hinges,
+and brass knobs and other ornaments which appeared to have been fixtures,
+were unshipped and deposited below, where they remained until our approach
+to New York, when the finery was again displayed, and all was placed once
+more _in statu quo_.
+
+For the first twelve days we had rather pleasant weather, and nothing
+remarkable occurred, unless a swallow coming on board completely exhausted
+with flying, fatigue made it so tame that it suffered itself to be
+caressed; it however popped into the coop, and the ducks literally gobbled
+it up alive. The ducks were, same day, suffered to roam about the decks,
+and the pigs fell foul of one of them, and eat the breast off it. Passing
+the cabouse, I heard the negro steward soliloquising, and on looking in,
+perceived him cutting a hen's throat with the most heartfelt satisfaction,
+as he grinned and exclaimed, by way of answer to its screams, "Poor
+feller! I guess I wouldn't hurt you for de world;" I could not help
+thinking with Leibnitz, that most sapient of philosophers, that this is
+the best of all possible worlds.
+
+On the thirteenth day we encountered a heavy gale, which continued to
+increase for four successive days. During this period we were unable to
+carry more canvass than was barely necessary to render the vessel
+manageable. A heavy gale, for the first time, is rather interesting than
+otherwise: the novelty of the sea's appearance--the anxiety of the crew
+and officers--the promptitude with which commands are given and
+executed--and the excitement produced by the other incidental occurrences,
+tend to make even a storm, when encountered in open sea, by no means
+destitute of pleasing interest. During this gale, the sailors appeared to
+be more than ordinarily anxious only upon one occasion, and then only for
+a minute--the circumstance was not calculated to create alarm in the mind
+of a person totally ignorant of nautical affairs, but being somewhat of a
+sailor, I understood the danger tolerably well. The helm was struck by a
+sea, and strained at the bolts; from the concussion occasioned by the
+blow, it was apprehended for a moment that it had been carried away.
+Without a helm, in such weather, much was to be feared; for her timbers
+being old, she could hardly meet the shock of an ocean wave upon her
+broadside without suffering serious injury. The helmsman was knocked
+down--the captain and mate jumped aft, to ascertain the extent of the
+damage; while the sailors scowled along the deck, as they laid their
+shoulders to the weather side of the ship--all was anxiety for the
+instant. At length the mate cried, "helm all right," and the crew pulled
+away as usual. At the close of the fourth day the storm subsided, and we
+approached the banks of Newfoundland.
+
+It is generally supposed that the colour of the sea is a sure indication
+of the presence or absence of soundings; that is, that there are
+soundings where the water is green, and that there are none where the
+water is blue. The former is, I believe, true in every instance; but the
+latter is certainly not so, as the first soundings we got here, were in
+water as blue as indigo, depth fifty odd fathoms.
+
+We were thirty days crossing these tiresome banks; during which time we
+were befogged, and becalmed, and annoyed with all sorts of disagreeable
+weather. The fogs or mists were frequently so dense, that it was
+impossible to see more than thirty yards from the vessel. This course is
+not that usually taken by ships bound for the United States, as they
+generally cross the Atlantic at much lower latitudes, but our captain
+"calculated" on escaping calms, and avoiding the influence of the Gulf
+stream, and thus making a quicker passage; he was, however, mistaken, as a
+packet ship that left Liverpool four days after, arrived at New York
+sixteen days before us.
+
+We found the thermometer of incalculable service, both for ascertaining
+when we got into the stream, and for disclosing our dangerous proximity to
+icebergs. That we had approached near icebergs we discovered one evening
+to be the case by the mercury falling, suddenly, below 40 deg., in foggy
+weather. We notwithstanding held on our course, and fortunately escaped
+accident. Many vessels which depart from port with gallant crews, and are
+never heard of more, are lost, I am convinced, by fatal collision with
+these floating islands. From the beginning of spring to the latter end of
+summer, masses of brash ice are occasionally encountered in these
+latitudes.
+
+Towards the evening of the fiftieth day we entered the bay of New York:
+the bay is really beautiful, and at this season (summer) perhaps appeared
+to the greatest advantage. The numerous islands with which it is
+interspersed, were covered to the water's edge with foliage and verdure,
+and here and there studded with handsome villas. The city appeared to be
+literally surrounded by a thick grove of masts, from which floated the
+flags of many nations--the scene, thus gradually unfolding itself to the
+eyes of one who had been for so long a time immured within a vessel, was
+really fascinating.
+
+While at New York, I staid at the "Pearl-street Boarding-house," and
+experienced from Messrs. Haskell and Perry, the proprietors, the most
+polite attention. Most Europeans are astonished at the rapidity with which
+the Americans despatch their meals; but I, having admitted the
+proposition, that there was "nothing new under the sun," had long
+previously ceased to be _astonished_ at any thing. On the first day of my
+dining at the table d'hote, one of those gentlemen told me, when we sat
+down to dinner, that most of the persons at table were men of business,
+who were in the habit of eating much quicker than he knew I was accustomed
+to, and requested that that might not in the slightest interfere with my
+habits, but that I should entirely suit my own comfort and convenience.
+After that preface, I think I should have been most unreasonable to fall
+into a passion with the New Yorkers, because they _bolted_ instead of
+masticating.
+
+New York is altogether a trading place, and different from any thing of
+the same magnitude in Europe: scarcely a single street is exclusively
+filled with private residences;--in a mercantile point of view, it is the
+Liverpool of the United States.
+
+The negros and mulattos constitute a considerable portion of the
+population. It is impossible to imagine the extreme ugliness of some of
+the sooty gentry; a decent ourang-outang might, without presumption, vie
+with many of these people, even of the _fair sex_, and an impartial judge
+should certainly decide that the said ourang-outang was the handsomer
+animal. Many of them are wealthy, and dress remarkably well. The females,
+when their shins and misshapen feet are concealed by long gowns, appear
+to have good figures. A few days after my arrival, walking down "Broadway"
+(the principal street) I was struck with the figure of a fashionably
+dressed woman, who was sauntering before me. After passing, I turned
+round, when--O angels and ministers of ugliness!--I beheld a face, as
+black as soot--a mouth that reached from ear to ear--a nose, like nothing
+human--and lips a full inch in diameter! On the following morning, whilst
+dressing at my bed-room window, I heard a squeaking sort of voice warbling
+forth, "Love was once a little Boy," and "I'd be a Butterfly." The strange
+_melody_ and unusual intonations induced me to look out, when, to my
+astonishment, I found that the _fair_ songstress was a most
+hideous-looking negress! Such are the scenes that constantly present
+themselves here, and remind a European that he is in a new region.
+
+The white ladies dress fashionably, generally _a la Francoise_; have
+straight figures, and with the help of a little cotton, judiciously
+disposed, and sometimes, the smallest possible portion of rouge, contrive
+to look rather interesting; in general, they are lamentably deficient in
+_tournure_ and _en-bon-point_. The hands and feet of the greatest belle,
+are _pas mignon_, and would be termed plebeian by the Anglo-Normans--the
+aristocracy of England. Yet I have seen many girls extremely handsome
+indeed, having a delicate bloom and fair skin; but this does not endure
+long, as the variable nature of the climate--the sudden and violent
+transitions of temperature which occur on this continent, destroy, in a
+few years, the complexion of the finest woman. When she arrives at the age
+of thirty, her skin is shrivelled and discoloured; she is thin, and has
+all the indications of premature old age. The women of England retain
+their beauty at least ten years longer than those of America.
+
+The inhabitants of that part of New York nearest the shipping, are
+extremely sallow and unhealthy looking, and many have a most cadaverous
+aspect. Malaria certainly exists here in some degree. A man will tell you
+that the city is perfectly healthy, whilst his own appearance most
+unquestionably indicates disease. I speak now of the quays and adjacent
+streets; and the cause is very apparent. The wharfs are faced with wood,
+and the retiring of the tide exposes a rotten vegetable substance to the
+action of an almost tropical sun, which, added to the filth that is
+invariably found in the neighbourhood of shipping, is quite sufficient to
+produce the degree of unhealthiness that exists. On going up the town, the
+appearance of the inhabitants gradually improves, and approaching the
+suburbs, the difference is striking,--in this district I have seen persons
+as stout and healthy looking as any in England or Ireland.
+
+On the night of my arrival, a fire broke out, by which several extensive
+warehouses were entirely consumed. There is nothing more remarkable here
+than the frequent occurrence of this calamity, except the excellent
+arrangements that are made for arresting its progress. The engines,
+apparatus, and _corps de pompiers_, are admirably maintained, and the
+promptitude and regularity with which they arrive at the scene of
+devastation truly astonishing: indeed, were this not the case, the city
+must very soon be destroyed; for notwithstanding all their exertions,
+every conflagration makes it minus several houses, and few nights pass
+without bringing a misfortune of this nature.
+
+There are several theatres, churches, and other public buildings,
+dispersed throughout the city. The City Hall, which stands near the upper
+end of a small enclosure, called the Park, is considered the handsomest
+building in the United States. It was finished in 1812, and cost half a
+million dollars.
+
+The police regulations appear not to be so severe as they ought to be, for
+droves of hogs are permitted to roam about the streets, to the terror of
+fine ladies, and the great annoyance of all pedestrians.
+
+New York was settled by the Dutch in 1615, and called by them New
+Amsterdam. In 1634, it was conquered by the English,--retaken by the Dutch
+in 1673, and restored in 1674. Its present population is estimated at
+213,000.
+
+Having heard that the celebrated Frances Wright, authoress of "A Few Days
+in Athens," was publicly preaching and promulgating her doctrines in the
+city, I determined on paying the "Hall of Science" a visit, in which
+establishment she usually lectured. The address she delivered on the
+evening I attended had been previously delivered on the fourth of July, in
+the city of Philadelphia; but, at the request of a numerous party of
+"Epicureans," she was induced to repeat it. The hall might contain perhaps
+ten or twelve hundred persons, and on this occasion it was filled to
+excess, by a well-dressed audience of both sexes.
+
+The person of Frances Wright is tall and commanding--her features are
+rather masculine, and the melancholy cast which her countenance ordinarily
+assumes gives it rather a harsh appearance--her dark chestnut hair hangs
+in long graceful curls about her neck; and when delivering her lectures,
+her appearance is romantic and unique.
+
+She is a speaker of great eloquence and ability, both as to the matter of
+her orations, and the manner of their delivery. The first sentence she
+utters rivets your attention; and, almost unconsciously, your sympathies
+are excited, and you are carried onward by the reasonings and the
+eloquence of this disciple of the Gardens. The impression made on the
+audience assembled on that occasion was really wonderful. Once or twice,
+when I could withdraw my attention from the speaker, I regarded the
+countenances of those around me, and certainly never witnessed any thing
+more striking. The high-wrought interest depicted in their faces, added to
+the breathless silence that reigned throughout the building, made the
+spectacle the most imposing I ever beheld. She was the Cumaean Sibyl
+delivering oracles and labouring under the inspiration of the God of
+Day.--This address was chiefly of a political character, and she took care
+to flatter the prejudices of the Americans, by occasionally recurring to
+the advantages their country possessed over European states--namely, the
+absence of country gentlemen, and of a church establishment; for to the
+absence of these the Americans attribute a large portion of the very great
+degree of comfort they enjoy.
+
+Near Hoboken, about three miles up North river, at the opposite side to
+New York, a match took place between a boat rowed by two watermen, and a
+canoe paddled by two Indians. The boat was long and narrow, similar in
+form to those that ply on the Thames. The canoe was of the lightest
+possible construction, being composed of thin hickory ribs covered with
+bark. In calm weather, the Indians propel these vessels through the water
+with astonishing velocity; but when the wind is high, and the water much
+disturbed, their progress is greatly impeded. It so happened on this day
+that the water was rough, and consequently unfavourable to the Aborigines.
+At the appointed signal the competitors started. For a short distance the
+Indians kept up with their rivals, but the long heavy pull of the oar soon
+enabled the boatmen to leave them at a distance. The Indians, true to
+their character, seeing the contest hopeless, after the first turn, no
+longer contended for victory; they paddled deliberately back to the
+starting place, stepped out, and carried their canoe on shore. The
+superiority of the oar over the paddle was in this contest fully
+demonstrated.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER II.
+
+
+Having determined on quitting "the London of the States," as my friends
+the Yankees call New York, I had bag and baggage conveyed on board a
+steamer bound for Albany. The arrangements and accommodations on board
+this boat were superb, and surpassed any thing of the kind I ever met with
+in Europe, on the same scale; and the groups of well-dressed passengers
+fully indicated the general prosperity of the country.
+
+The distance between New York and Albany is about 165 miles. The scenery
+on the Hudson is said to be the most beautiful of any in America, and I
+believe cannot be surpassed in any country. Many of the beauties of rich
+European scenery are to be found along the banks of that noble river. In
+the highlands, about fifty miles from New York, is West Point, on which
+stands a strong fortress, containing an arsenal, a military-school, and a
+garrison. It is romantically situated among lofty crags and mountains,
+which rise above the level of the water from 1100 to 1500 feet. There are
+many handsome country seats and villages between West Point and Hudson,
+where the river is more than a mile wide.
+
+After a passage of about sixteen or seventeen hours, we arrived at Albany.
+The charge for passage, including dinner and tea, was only three dollars;
+and the day following the cost was reduced, through the spirit of
+opposition, to one dollar.
+
+Albany is the legislative capital of New York. It is a handsome city, and
+one of the oldest in the Union. Most of the houses are built of wood,
+which, when tastefully painted (not often the case) have rather a pleasing
+appearance. The situation of this city is advantageous, both from the
+direct communication which it enjoys with the Atlantic, by means of sloops
+and schooners, and the large tract of back country which it commands. A
+trade with Canada is established by means of the Erie and Hudson canal.
+The capitol, and other public buildings, are large and handsome, and being
+constructed of either brick or stone, give the city a respectable
+appearance.
+
+Albany, in 1614, was first settled by the Dutch, and was by them called
+Orange. On its passing into the hands of the English, in 1664, its present
+name was given to it, in honour of the Duke of York. It was chartered in
+1686.
+
+From Albany I proceeded along the canal, by West Troy and Junction, and
+near the latter place we came to Cohoe's Falls, on the Mohawk. The river
+here is about 250 yards wide, which rushing over a jagged and uneven bed
+of rocks, produces a very picturesque effect. The canal runs nearly
+parallel with this river from Junction to Utica, crossing it twice, at an
+interval of seven miles, over aqueducts nearly fifty rods in length,
+constructed of solid beams of timber. The country is very beautiful, and
+for the most part well cultivated. The soil possesses every variety of
+good and bad. The farms along the canal are valuable, land being generally
+worth from fifty to a hundred dollars per acre.
+
+Above Schenectady, a very ancient town, the bed of the canal gave way,
+which of course obliged us to come to a dead halt. I hired, for myself and
+two others, a family waggon (dignified here with the appellation of
+_carriage_) to take us beyond the break, in expectation of being able to
+get a boat thence onwards, but unfortunately all the upward-bound boats
+had proceeded. We were, therefore, obliged to wait until next morning. My
+fellow travellers having light luggage, got themselves and it into a hut
+at the other side of the lock; but I, having heavy baggage, which it was
+impossible to carry across, was compelled to remain on the banks, between
+the canal and the Mohawk, all night. On the river there were several
+canoes, with fishermen spearing by torch-light; while on the banks the
+boatmen and boys, Mulattos and whites, were occupied in gambling. They had
+tables, candles, dice, and cards. With these, and with a _quantum
+sufficit_ of spirits, they contrived to while away the time until
+day-break; of course interlarding their conversation with a reasonable
+quantity of oaths and imprecations. The breach being repaired early in the
+morning, the boats came up, and we proceeded to Utica.
+
+Seven miles above Utica is seated Rome, a small and dirty town, bearing no
+possible resemblance to the "Eternal City," even in its more modern
+condition, as the residence of the "Triple Prince;" but, on the contrary,
+having, if one could judge from the habitations, every appearance of
+squalid poverty. Fifteen miles further on, we passed the Little Falls. It
+was night when we came to them, but it being moonlight, we had an
+opportunity of seeing them to advantage. The crags are here
+stupendous--irregular and massive piles of rocks, from which spring the
+lofty pine and cedar, are heaped in frightful disorder on each other, and
+give the scene a terrifically grand appearance.
+
+From Rome to Syracuse, a distance of forty-six miles, the canal is cut
+through a swampy forest, a great portion of which is composed of dead
+trees. One of the most dismal scenes imaginable is a forest of charred
+trees, which is occasionally to be met with in this country, especially in
+the route by which I was travelling. It is caused by the woods being
+fired, by accident or otherwise. The aspect of these blasted monuments of
+ruined vegetation is strange and peculiar; and the air of desertion and
+desolation which pervades their neighbourhood, reminds one of the stories
+that are told of the Upas valley of Java, for here too not a bird is to
+be seen. The smell arising from this swamp in the night, was so bad as to
+oblige us to shut all the windows and doors of the boat, which, added to
+the bellowing and croaking of the bull frogs--the harsh and incessant
+noise of the grasshoppers, and the melancholy cry of the whip-poor-will,
+formed a combination not of the most agreeable nature. Yet, in defiance of
+all this, we were induced occasionally to brave the terrors of the night,
+in order to admire that beautiful insect the fire-fly, or as it is called
+by the natives, "lightning bug." They emit a greenish phosphorescent
+light, and are seen at this season in every part of the country. The woods
+here were full of them, and seemed literally to be studded with small
+stars, which emitted a bright flickering light.
+
+After you pass Syracuse, the country begins to improve; but still it is
+low and marshy, and for the most part unhealthy, as the appearance of the
+people clearly indicates. In this country, as in every other, the canals
+are generally cut through comparatively low lands, and the low lands here,
+with few exceptions, are all swampy; however, a great deal of the
+unhealthiness which pervades this district, arises from want of attention.
+A large portion of the inhabitants are Low Dutch, who appear never to be
+in their proper element, unless when settled down in the midst of a swamp.
+They allow rotten timber to accumulate, and stagnant pools to remain about
+their houses, and from these there arises an effluvium which is most
+unpleasant in warm weather, which, however, they do not seem to perceive.
+
+We entered Rochester, through an aqueduct thirty rods in length, built of
+stone, across the Genessee river. Rochester is the handsomest town on this
+line. Some of the houses here are tastefully decorated. All the windows
+have Venetian blinds, and generally there are one or two covered balconies
+attached to the front of each house. Before the doors there are small
+_parterres_, planted with rose-trees, and other fragrant shrubs. About
+half a mile from the town are the Falls of Genessee. The water glides over
+an even bed of limestone rock, ninety-six feet above the level of the
+river below. There is a beautiful regularity in this fall, but its extreme
+uniformity divests it of picturesque effect. Here the celebrated diver,
+Sam. Patch, subsequently met his fate in diving off this precipice. He had
+performed similar feats at the Falls of Niagara, without sustaining any
+injury. He was not killed by the fall; but is supposed to have fainted
+when midway from, his leap, as his arms were observed to relax, and his
+legs to open, before he reached the water.
+
+On my journey I met with an Englishman, a Mr. W----. He dressed _a la Mungo
+Park_, wearing a jacket and trowsers of jean, and a straw hat. He was a
+great pedestrian; had travelled through most of the southern States, and
+was now on his tour through this part of the country. He was a gentleman
+about fifty,--silent and retiring in his habits. Enamoured of the
+orange-trees of Georgia, he intended returning there or to Carolina, and
+ending his days. We agreed to visit the Falls of Niagara together, and
+accordingly quitted the boat at Tonawanta. When we had dined, and had
+deposited our luggage in the safe keeping of the Niagara hotel-keeper, my
+companion shouldered his vigne stick, and to one end of which he appended
+a small bundle, containing a change of linen, &c., and I put on my
+shooting coat of many pockets, and shouldered my gun. Thus equipped, we
+commenced our journey to the Great Falls. The distance from Tonawanta to
+the village of the Falls, now called Manchester, is about eleven miles.
+The way lies through a forest, in which there are but a few scattered
+habitations. A great part of the road runs close to the river Niagara; and
+the occasional glimpses of this broad sheet of water, which are obtained
+through the rich foliage of the forest, added to the refreshing breeze
+that approached us through the openings, rendered our pedestrian excursion
+extremely delightful.
+
+Towards evening we arrived at the village, and proceeded to reconnoitre,
+in order to fix our position for the night. After having done this
+satisfactorily, we then turned our attention to the all-important
+operation of eating and drinking. While supping, an eccentric-looking
+person passed out through the apartment in which we were. His odd
+appearance excited our curiosity, and we inquired who this
+mysterious-looking gentleman was. We were informed that he was an
+Englishman, and that he had been lodging there for the last six months,
+but that he concealed his real name. He slept in one corner of a large
+barrack room, in which there were of course several other beds. On a small
+table by his bed-side there were a few French and Latin books, and some
+scraps of poetry touching on the tender passion. These, and a German
+flute, which we observed standing against the window, gave us some clue to
+his character. He was a tall, romantic-looking young man, apparently about
+twenty-seven or twenty-eight years of age. His dress was particularly
+shabby. This the landlord told us was from choice, not from necessity, as
+he had two trunks full of clothes nearly new. The reason he gave for
+dressing as he did, was his knowing, he said, that if he dressed well,
+people would be talking to him, which he wished to avoid; but, that by
+dressing as he did, he made sure that no one would ever think of giving
+him any annoyance of that kind. I thought this idea unique: and whether he
+be still at Niagara, or has taken up his abode at the foot of the Rocky
+mountains, I pronounce him to be a Diogenes without a tub. He has read at
+least one page in the natural history of civilized man.
+
+We visited the Falls, at the American side by moonlight. There was then an
+air of grandeur and sublimity in the scene which I shall long remember.
+Yet at this side they are not seen to the greatest advantage. Next morning
+I crossed the Niagara river, below the Falls, into Canada. I did not
+ascend the bank to take the usual route to the Niagara hotel, at which
+place there is a spiral staircase descending 120 feet towards the foot of
+the Falls, but clambered along at the base of the cliffs until I reached
+the point immediately below the stairs. I here rested, and indeed required
+it much, for the day was excessively warm, and I had unfortunately
+encumbered myself with my gun and shot pouch. The Falls are here seen in
+all their grandeur. Two immense volumes of water glide over perpendicular
+precipices upwards of 170 feet in height, and tumble among the crags below
+with a roaring that _we_ distinctly heard on our approach to the village,
+at the distance of five miles up the river: and down the river it can be
+heard at a much greater distance. The Falls are divided by Goat Island
+into two parts. The body of water which falls to the right of the island
+is much greater than that which falls to the left; and the cliffs to the
+right assume the form of a horse-shoe. To the left there is also a
+considerable indentation, caused by a late falling in of the rock; but it
+scarcely appears from the Canadian side. The rushing of the waters over
+such immense precipices--the dashing of the spray, which rises in a white
+cloud at the base of the Falls, and is felt at the distance of a quarter
+of a mile--the many and beautiful rainbows that occasionally
+appear,--united, form a grand and imposing _coup d'oeil_.
+
+The Fall is supposed to have been originally at the table-land near
+Lewiston; and indeed, from the nature of the ground, and its present
+condition below the Falls, no reasonable objection can be entertained to
+that supposition. The upper part of the cliffs is composed of hard
+limestone, and underneath is a bed of schistus. Now this schistus is
+continually worn away by the water's dashing against it. This leaves the
+upper part, or immediate bed of the river, without foundation. When,
+therefore, from extraordinary floods, the pressure of the incumbent fluid
+becomes more than usually great, the rock gives way; and thus, gradually,
+the Falls have receded several miles.
+
+I at length ascended the stairs, and popped my head into the shanty, _sans
+ceremonie_, to the no small amazement of the cunning compounder of
+"cock-tails," and "mint julaps" who presided at the bar. It was clear that
+I had ascended the stairs, but how the deuce I had got down was the
+question. I drank my "brandy sling," and retreated before he had recovered
+from his surprise, and thus I escaped the volley of interrogatories with
+which I should have been most unsparingly assailed. I walked for some
+distance along the Canadian heights, and then crossed the river, where I
+met my friend waiting my return under a clump of scrub oak.
+
+We had previously determined on visiting the Tuscarora village, an Indian
+settlement about eight miles down the river, and not far from Ontario.
+This is a tribe of one of the six nations, the last that was admitted into
+the Confederation. They live in a state of community; and in their
+arrangements for the production and distribution of wealth, approach
+nearer to the Utopean system than any community with which I am
+acquainted. The squaws told us that no Indian there could claim any thing
+but what was contained within his own cabin; that the produce of the land
+was common property, and that they never quarrelled about its division. We
+dined in one of their cabins, on lean mutton and corn bread. The interior
+of their habitations is not conspicuous for cleanliness; nor are they so
+far civilized as to be capable of breaking their word. The people at the
+Niagara village told us, that with the exception of two individuals in
+that community, any Indian could get from them on credit either money or
+goods to whatever amount he required.
+
+I here parted with my fellow traveller, perhaps for ever. He went to
+Lewiston, whence he intended to cross into Canada, and to walk along the
+shores of Ontario; whilst I made the best of my way back through the woods
+to Manchester. I certainly think our landlord had some misgivings
+respecting the fate of my companion. We had both departed together: I
+alone was armed--and I alone returned. However, as I unflinchingly stood
+examination and cross-examination, and sojourned until next morning, his
+fears seemed to be entirely dispelled. Next day I took a long, last look
+at Niagara, and departed for Tonawanta.
+
+At Tonawanta I again took the canal-boat to Buffalo, a considerable town
+on the shores of lake Erie, and at the head of the canal navigation. There
+are several good buildings in this town, and some well-appointed hotels.
+Lake schooners, and steam and canal boats are here in abundance, it being
+an entrepot for western produce and eastern merchandize. A few straggling
+Indians are to be seen skulking about Buffalo, like dogs in Cairo, the
+victims of the inordinate use of ardent spirits.
+
+From Buffalo I proceeded in a steamer along lake Erie, to Portland in
+Ohio, now called Sandusky City; the distance 240 miles. After about an
+hour's sail, we entirely lost sight of the Canadian shores. The scenery on
+the American side is very fine, particularly from Presqu' Isle onward to
+the head of the lake, or rather from its magnitude, it might be termed an
+inland sea.
+
+On landing at Sandusky, I learned that there were several Indian reserves
+between that place and Columbus, the seat of government. This determined
+me on making a pedestrian tour to that city. Accordingly, having forwarded
+my luggage, and made other necessary arrangements, I commenced my
+pergrinations among the Aborigines.
+
+The woods in the upper part of Ohio, nearest the lake, are tolerably open,
+and occasionally interspersed with sumach and sassafras: the soil
+somewhat sandy. I met with but few Indians, until my arrival at Lower
+Sandusky, on the Sandusky river; here there were several groups returning
+to their reserves, from Canada, where they had been to receive the annual
+presents made them by the British government. In the next county (Seneca)
+there is a reservation of about three miles square, occupied by Senecas,
+Cayugas, and part of the Iroquois or six nations, once a most powerful
+confederation amongst the red men.[1] In Crawford county there is a very
+large reserve belonging to the Huron or Wyandot Indians. These, though
+speaking a dialect of the Iroquois tongue, are more in connexion with the
+Delawares than with the Iroquois. The Wyandots are much esteemed by their
+white neighbours, for probity and good behaviour. They dress very
+tastefully. A handsome chintz shawl tied in the Moorish fashion about the
+head--leggings of blue cloth, reaching half way up the thigh, sewn at the
+outside, leaving a hem of about an inch deep--mocassins, or Indian boots,
+made of deer-skin, to fit the foot close, like a glove--a shirt or tunic
+of white calico--and a hunting shirt, or frock, made of strong
+blue-figured cotton or woollen cloth, with a small fringed cape, and long
+sleeves,--a tomahawk and scalping knife stuck in a broad leather belt.
+Accoutred in this manner, and mounted on a small hardy horse, called here
+an Indian pony, imagine a tall, athletic, brown man, with black hair and
+eyes--the hair generally plaited in front, and sometimes hanging in long
+wavy curls behind--aquiline nose, and fearless aspect, and you have a fair
+idea of the Wyandot and Cayuga Indian. The Senecas and Oneidas whom I met
+with, were not so handsome in general, but as athletic, and about the same
+average height--five feet nine or ten.
+
+The Indians here, as every where else, are governed by their own laws, and
+never have recourse to the whites to settle their disputes. That silent
+unbending spirit, which has always characterized the Indian, has alone
+kept in check the rapacious disposition of the whites. Several attempts
+have been made to induce the Indians to sell their lands, and go beyond
+the Mississippi, but hitherto without effect. The Indian replies to the
+fine speeches and wily language of the whites, "We hold this small bit of
+land, in the vast country of our fathers, by _your_ written talk, and it
+is noted on _our_ wampums--the bones of our fathers lie here, and we
+cannot forsake them. You tell us our great father (the president) is
+powerful, and that his arm is long and strong--we believe it is so; but we
+are in hopes that he will not strike his red children for their lands, and
+that he will leave us this little piece to live upon--the hatchet is long
+buried, let it not be disturbed."
+
+Jackson has lately published a manifesto to all the Indian tribes within
+the limits of the United States, commanding them to sell their reserves;
+and with few exceptions, has been answered in this manner.
+
+A circumstance occurred a few days previous to my arrival, in the Seneca
+reserve, which may serve to illustrate the determined character of the
+Indian. There were three brothers (chiefs) dwelling in this reservation.
+"Seneca John," the eldest brother, was the principal chief of the tribe,
+and a man much esteemed by the white people. He died by poison. The
+chiefs in council, having satisfactorily ascertained that his second
+brother "Red-hand," and a squaw, had poisoned him, decreed that Red-hand
+should be put to death. "Black-snake," the other brother, told the chiefs
+that if Red-hand must die, he himself would kill him, in order to prevent
+feuds arising in the tribe. Accordingly in the evening he repaired to the
+hut of Red-hand, and after having sat in silence for some time, said, "My
+best chiefs say, you have killed my father's son,--they say my brother
+must die." Red-hand merely replied, "They say so;" and continued to smoke.
+After about fifteen minutes further silence, Black-snake said, pointing to
+the setting sun, "When he appears above those trees"--moving his arm round
+to the opposite direction--"I come to kill you." Red-hand nodded his head
+in the short significant style of the Indian, and said "Good." The next
+morning Black-snake came, followed by two chiefs, and having entered the
+hut, first put out the squaw, he then returned and stood before his
+brother, his eyes bent on the ground. Red-hand said calmly, "Has my
+brother come that I may die?"--"It is so," was the reply. "Then,"
+exclaimed Red-hand, grasping his brother's left hand with his own right,
+and dashing the shawl from his head, "Strike sure!" In an instant the
+tomahawk was from the girdle of Black-snake, and buried in the skull of
+the unfortunate man. He received several blows before he fell, uttering
+the exclamation "hugh," each time. The Indians placed him on the grass to
+die, where the backwoodsman who told me the story, saw him after the lapse
+of two hours, and life was not then extinct,--with such tenacity does it
+cling to the body of an Indian. The scalping knife was at length passed
+across his throat, and thus ended the scene.
+
+From Sandusky city, in Huron county, I passed into Sandusky county, and
+from thence through Seneca county. These three counties are entirely
+woodlands, with the exception of a few small prairies which lay eastward
+of my course. The land is generally fertile. Some light sandy soil is
+occasionally to be met with, which produces more quickly than the heavier
+soil, but not so abundantly. I saw in my travels through these counties a
+few persons who were ill of ague-fever, as it is here called. The
+prevalence of this disease is not to be attributed to a general
+unhealthiness of the climate, but can at all times be referred to
+localities.
+
+I next entered Crawford county, and crossed the Wyandot prairie, about
+seven miles in length, to Upper Sandusky. This was the first of those
+extensive meadows I had seen, and I was much pleased with its
+appearance--although this prairie is comparatively but small, yet its
+beauty cannot be surpassed; and the groves, and clusters of trees, _iles
+de bois_, with which it is interspersed, make it much resemble a beautiful
+domain.
+
+Attached to the Wyandot reserve (nine miles by sixteen) is that of the
+Delawares (three miles square). On reaching Little Sandusky--Kahama's
+curse on the town baptizers of America!--there are often five or six
+places named alike in one state: upper and lower, little and big, great
+and small--and invariably the same names that are given to towns in one
+State, are to be found in every other. Then their vile plagiarisms of
+European names causes a Babelonish confusion of ideas, enough to disturb
+the equanimity of a "grisly saint;" and, with all humility, I disclaim
+having any pretensions to that character. I have frequently heard a
+long-legged, sallow-looking backwoodsman talk of having come lately from
+Paris, or Mecca, when instead of meaning the capital of _La grande
+nation_, or the city of "the holy prophet," he spoke of some town
+containing a few hundred inhabitants, situated in the backwoods of
+Kentucky, or amidst the gloomy forests of Indiana. The Americans too speak
+in prospective, when they talk of great places; no doubt "calculating"
+that, one day, all the mighty productions of the old world will be
+surpassed by their ingenuity and perseverance.
+
+I reached Little Sandusky about one o'clock in the day, and there learned
+that there was a treaty being holden with the Delawares--accordingly I
+repaired to the council ground. On a mat, under the shade of seven large
+elm trees, which in more prosperous times had waved over the war-like
+ancestors of this unfortunate people, were seated three old sachems, the
+principal of the tribe. The oldest appeared to be nearly eighty years of
+age, the next about seventy, and the last about fifty. On a chair to the
+right of the Indians was seated a young "half-breed" chief, the son of one
+of the sachems by a white squaw; and on their left, seated on another
+chair, a Delaware dressed in the costume of the whites. This young man was
+in the pay of the States, and acted as interpreter--he interpreting into
+and from the Delaware language, and a gentleman of the mission (a Captain
+Walker) into and from the Wyandot. At a table opposite the Indians were
+seated the commissioners.
+
+The Lenni Lenape, or Delawares, as they were called by the English, from
+the circumstance of their holding their great "Council-fire" on the banks
+of the Delaware river, were once the most powerful of the several tribes
+that spoke the Delaware tongue, and possessed an immense tract of country
+east of the Alleghany mountains. This unfortunate people had been driven
+from place to place, until at last they were obliged to accept of an
+asylum from the Wyandot, whom they call their uncle; and now are forced to
+sell this, and go beyond the Mississippi. To a reflecting mind, the scene
+was touching beyond description. Here was the sad remnant of a great
+nation, who having been forced back from the original country of their
+fathers, by successive acts of rapacity, are now compelled to enter into
+a compact which obliges them, half civilized as they are, to return to the
+forest. The case is this,--the white people, or rather Jackson and the
+southerns, say, that the Indians "retard improvement"--precisely in the
+same sense that a brigand, when he robs a traveller, might say, that the
+traveller retarded improvement--that is, retarded _his_ improvement,
+inasmuch as he had in his pocket, what would improve the condition of the
+brigand. The Indians have cultivated farms, and valuable tracts of land,
+and no doubt it will improve the condition of the whites, to get
+possession of those farms and rich lands, for _one tenth of their saleable
+value_. The profits that have accrued to the United States from the
+systematic plunder of the Indians, are immense, and a great portion of the
+national debt has been liquidated by this dishonest means.[2]
+
+The reserve of the Delawares contained nine square miles, or 5760 acres.
+For this it was agreed at the treaty, that they should be paid 6000
+dollars, and the value of the improvements, which I conceived to be a fair
+bargain. I was not then aware of the practice pursued by the government,
+of making deductions, under various pretences, from the purchase-money,
+until the unfortunate Indian is left scarcely anything in lieu of his
+lands, and says, that "the justice of the white man is not like the
+justice of the red man," and that he cannot understand the honesty of his
+Christian brother. The following extract, taken from the New York
+American, will give some insight into the mode of dealing with the
+Indians.
+
+"_The last of the Ottowas_.--Maumee Bay, Ohio, Sept. 3, 1831.--Mr. James
+B. Gardiner has concluded a very important treaty at Maumee Bay, in
+Michigan, for a cession of all the lands owned by the Ottowa Indians in
+Ohio, about 50,000 acres. It was attended with more labour and greater
+difficulties than any other treaty made in this state: it was the last
+foothold which that savage, warlike, and hostile tribe held in their
+ancient dominion. The conditions of this treaty are very similar to those
+treaties of Lewistown and Wapaghkenetta, _with this exception_, that the
+surplus avails of their lands, _after deducting seventy cents per acre to
+indemnify the government_, are to be appropriated for paying the debts of
+their nation, which amount to about 20,000 dollars." [Query, what are
+those debts?--could they be the amount of _presents_ made them on former
+occasions?] "The balance, _if any_, accrues to the tribe. Seventy
+thousand acres of land are granted to them west of the Mississippi.[3] The
+Ottowas are the most depredating, drunken, and ferocious in Ohio. The
+reservations ceded by them are very valuable, and those on the Miami of
+the lake embrace some of the best mill privileges in the State."
+
+The Delawares were too few (being but fifty-one in number) to contend the
+matter, and therefore accepted of the proposed terms. At the conclusion of
+the conference, the Commissioners told them that they should have a barrel
+of flour, with the beef that had been killed for the occasion, which was
+received with "Yo-ha!--Yo-ha!" They then said, laughing, "that they hoped
+their father would allow them a little milk," meaning whisky, which was
+accordingly granted. They drank of this modern Lethe and forgot for a time
+their misfortunes.
+
+On the Osage fork of the Merrimack river, there are two settlements of the
+Delawares, to the neighbourhood of which these Indians intend to remove.
+
+Near the Delaware reserve, I fell in with a young Indian, apparently about
+twenty years of age, and we journeyed together for several miles through
+the forest. He spoke English fluently, and conformed as far as his taste
+would permit him, to the habits of the whites. His dress consisted of a
+blue frock coat, blue cloth leggings, moccasins, a shawl tied about the
+head, and a red sash round his waste. In conversation, I asked him if he
+were not a Cayuga--: "No," says he, "an Oneida," placing both his hands on
+his breast--"a _clear_ Oneida." I could not help smiling at his national
+pride;--yet this is man: in every country and condition he is proud of his
+descent, and loves the race to which he belongs. This Oneida was a widow's
+son. He had sixteen acres of cleared land, which, with occasional
+assistance, he cultivated himself. When the produce was sold, he divided
+the proceeds with his mother, and then set out, and travelled until his
+funds were exhausted. He had just then returned from a tour to New York
+and Philadelphia, and had visited almost every city in the Union. As
+Guedeldk--that was the Oneida's name--and I were rambling along, we met a
+negro who was journeying in great haste--he stopped to inquire if we had
+seen that day, or the day previous, any nigger-woman going towards the
+lake. I had passed the day before two waggon loads of negros, which were
+being transported, by the state, to Canada. A local law prohibits the
+settlement of people of colour within the state of Ohio, which was now put
+in force, although it had remained dormant for many years.
+
+There was much hardship in the case of this poor fellow. He had left his
+family at Cincinnati, and had gone to work on the canal some eighteen or
+twenty miles distant. He had been absent about a week; and on his return
+he found his house empty, and was informed that his wife and children had
+been seized, and transported to Canada. The enforcement of this law has
+been since abandoned; and I must say, although the law itself is at
+variance with the Constitution of the United States, which is paramount to
+all other laws, that its abandonment is due entirely to the good feeling
+of the people of Ohio, who exclaimed loudly against the cruelty of the
+measure.
+
+FOOTNOTES:
+
+[1] De Witt Clinton, speaking of the Iroquois, or five nations, says,
+"Their exterior relations, general interests, and national affairs, were
+conducted and superintended by a great council, assembled annually in
+Onondaga, the central canton, composed of the chiefs of each republic;
+and eighty sachems were frequently convened at this national assembly. It
+took cognizance of the great questions of war and peace; of the affairs
+of the tributary nations, and their negotiations with the French and
+English colonies. All their proceedings were conducted with great
+deliberation, and were distinguished for order, decorum, and solemnity.
+In eloquence, in dignity, and in all the characteristics of profound
+policy, they surpassed the assembly of feudal barons, and perhaps were
+not inferior to the great Amphictyonic Council of Greece."
+
+[2]
+                                              Dollars.
+
+Amount of lands sold up to the year 1824     44,229,837
+
+173,176,606 acres unsold, estimated at one
+dollar per acre. The Congress price was
+then two dollars, but was subsequently
+reduced to a dollar and a quarter, and
+is now 75 cents.                            173,176,606
+                                            -----------
+                                            217,406,443
+
+Deduct value of annuities, expenses of
+surveying, &c. &c., being the amount of
+purchase-money paid for same                  4,243,632
+                                            -----------
+
+Profit arising to the United States from
+purchases of land from the Indians          213,162,811
+                                            -----------
+Allowing 480 cents, to the pound sterling, the gross
+          profit is L44,408,918. 19_s_. 2_d_.
+
+[3] There are lands west of the Mississippi, which would be dear at ten
+cents per hundred acres.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER III.
+
+
+From Little Sandusky, I passed through Marion, in Marion county. This
+town, like most others in Ohio, is advancing rapidly, and has at present
+several good brick buildings. The clap-boarded frame houses, which compose
+the great mass of habitations in the towns throughout the western country,
+in general have a neat appearance. I here saw gazetted three divorces, all
+of which had been granted on the applications of the wives. One, on the
+ground of the husband's absenting himself for one year: another, on
+account of a blow having been given: and the third for general neglect.
+There are few instances of a woman's being refused a divorce in the
+western country, as dislike is very generally--and very
+rationally--supposed to constitute a sufficient reason for granting the
+ladies their freedom.
+
+I crossed Delaware county into Franklin county, where Columbus, the
+capital of the state, is situated. The roads from the lake to this city,
+with few exceptions, passed through woodlands, and the country is but
+thinly settled. Beech, oak, elm, hickory, walnut, white-oak, ash, &c.
+compose the bulk of the forest trees; and in the bottom lands, enormous
+sycamores are to be seen stretching their white arms almost to the very
+clouds. The land is of various denominations, but in general may be termed
+fertile.
+
+Columbus, the capital of Ohio, is seated on the Scioto river, which is
+navigable for keel and flat boats, and small craft, almost to its source;
+and by means of a portage of about four miles, to Sandusky river, which
+flows into lake Erie, a convenient communication is established between
+the lakes, and the great western waters. The town is well laid out. The
+streets are wide; and the court-house, town-hall, and public offices, are
+built of brick. There are some good taverns here, and the tables d'hotes
+are well and abundantly supplied.
+
+There are land offices in every county seat, in which maps and plans of
+the county are kept. On these, the disposable tracts of country are
+distinguished from those which have been disposed of. The purchaser pays
+one fourth of the purchase money, for which he gets a receipt,--this
+constitutes his title, until, on paying the residue, he receives a regular
+title deed. He may however pay the full amount at once, and receive a
+discount of, I believe, eight per cent. A township comprises thirty-six
+square miles (twenty three thousand and forty acres) in sections of six
+hundred and forty acres each, which are subdivided, to accommodate
+purchasers, into quarter sections, or lots of a hundred and sixty acres.
+The sixteenth section is not sold, but reserved for the support of the
+poor, for education, and other public uses. There is no provision made in
+this, or any other state, for the ministers of religion, which is found to
+be highly beneficial to the interests of practical Christianity. The
+congress price of land has lately been reduced from a dollar and a quarter
+per acre, to seventy-five cents.
+
+Ohio averages 184 miles in extent, from north to south, and 220 miles from
+east to west. Area, 40,000 square miles, or 25,600,000 acres. The
+population in 1790, was 3000; in 1800, 45,365; in 1810, 230,760; and in
+1820, 581,434. White males, 300,609; white females, 275,955; free people
+of colour, 4723; militia in 1821, 83,247. The last census, taken in 1830,
+makes the population 937,679.
+
+Having no more Indian reserves to visit, I took the stage, and rumbled
+over corduroys, republicans, stumps, and ruts, until my ribs were
+literally sore, through London, Xenia, and Lebanon, to Cincinnati.
+
+At Lebanon there is a large community of the shaking Quakers. They have
+establishments also in Mason county, and at Covington, in Kentucky: their
+tenets are strictly Scriptural. They contend, that confessing their sins
+to one another, is necessary to a state of perfection; that the church of
+Christ ought to have all things in common; that none of the members of
+this church ought to cohabit, but be literally virgins; and that to dance
+and be merry is their duty, which part of their doctrines they take from
+the thirty-first chapter of Jeremiah.
+
+Their ceremonies are as follows:--The men sit on the left hand, squatting
+on the floor, with their knees up, and their hands clasped round them.
+Opposite, in the same posture, sit the women, whose appearance is most
+cadaverous and sepulchral, dressed in the Quaker costume. After sitting
+for some time in this hatching position, they all rise and sing a canting
+sort of hymn, during which the women keep time by elevating themselves on
+their toes. After the singing has ceased, a discourse is delivered by one
+of the elders; which being ended, the men pull off their coats and
+waistcoats. All being prepared, one of the brethren steps forward to the
+centre of the room, and in a loud voice, gives out a tune, beating time
+with his foot, and singing _lal lal la, lal lal la_, &c., being joined by
+the whole group, all jumping as high as possible, clapping their hands,
+and at intervals twirling round,--but making rather ungraceful
+_pirouettes_: this exercise they continue until they are completely
+exhausted. In their ceremonials they much resemble the howling Dervishes
+of the Moslems, whom they far surpass in fanaticism.
+
+Within about ten miles of Cincinnati we took up an old doctor, who was
+going to that city for the purpose of procuring a warrant against one of
+his neighbours, who, he had reason to believe, was concerned in the
+kidnapping of a free negro the night before. This is by no means an
+uncommon occurrence in the free states bordering the great rivers. The
+unfortunate black man, when captured, is hurried down to the river, thrust
+into a flat boat, and carried to the plantations. Such negros are not
+exposed for sale in the public bazaars, as that would be attended with
+risk; but a false bill of sale is made out, and the sale is effected to
+some planter before they reach Orleans. There is, of course, always
+collusion between the buyer and seller, and the man is disposed of,
+generally, for half his value.
+
+These are certainly atrocious acts; yet when a British subject reads such
+passages as the following, in the histories of East India government, he
+must feel that if they were ten times as infamous and numerous as they are
+in reality, it becomes not _him_ to censure them. Bolts, who was a judge
+of the mayor's court of Calcutta, says, in his "Considerations on India
+Affairs," page 194, "With every species of monopoly, therefore, every kind
+of oppression to manufacturers of all denominations throughout the whole
+country has daily increased; insomuch that weavers, for daring to sell
+their goods, and Dallals and Pykars, for having contributed to, or
+connived at, such sales, have by the _Company's agents,_ been frequently
+seized and imprisoned, confined in irons, fined considerable sums of
+money, flogged, and deprived, in the most ignominious manner, of what they
+esteem most valuable, their castes. Weavers also, upon their inability to
+perform such agreements as have been _forced from them by the Company's
+agents_, universally known in Bengal by the name of _Mutchulcahs_, have
+had their goods seized and sold on the spot, to make good the deficiency:
+and the winders of raw silk, called _Nagaards_, have been treated also
+with such injustice, that instances have been known of their cutting off
+their thumbs, to prevent their being forced to wind silk. This last kind
+of workmen were pursued with such rigour, during Lord Clive's late
+government in Bengal, from a zeal for _increasing the Company's
+investment_ of raw silk, that the most sacred laws of society were
+atrociously violated; for it was _a common thing for the Company's
+scapoys_ to be sent by force of arms to break open the houses of the
+Armenian merchants established at Sydabad (who have from time immemorial
+been largely concerned in the silk trade), and forcibly take the
+_Nagaards_ from their work, and carry them away to the English factory."
+
+As we approached Cincinnati the number of farms, and the extent of
+cultivated country, indicated the comparative magnitude of that city.
+Fields in this country have nothing like the rich appearance of those in
+England and Ireland, being generally filled with half-rotten stumps,
+scattered here and there among the growing corn, producing a most
+disagreeable effect. Then, instead of the fragrant quickset hedge, there
+is a "worm fence"--the rudest description of barrier known in the
+country--which consists simply of bars, about eight or nine feet in
+length, laid zig-zag on each other alternately: the improvement on this,
+and the _ne plus ultra_ in the idea of a west country farmer, is what is
+termed a "post and rail fence." This denomination of fence is to be seen
+sometimes in the vicinity of the larger towns, and is constructed of posts
+six feet in length, sunk in the ground to the depth of about a foot, and
+at eight or ten feet distance; the rails are then laid into mortises cut
+into the posts, at intervals of about thirteen or fourteen inches, which
+completes the work.
+
+Cincinnati is built on a bend of the Ohio river, which takes here a
+semicircular form, and runs nearly west; it afterwards flows in a more
+southerly direction. A complete chain of hills, sweeping from one point of
+the bend round to the other, encloses the city in a sort of amphitheatre.
+The houses are mostly brick, and the streets all paved. There are several
+spacious and handsome market houses, which on market days are stocked with
+all kinds of provisions--indeed I think the market of Cincinnati is very
+nearly the best supplied in the United States. There are many respectable
+public buildings here, such as a court-house, theatre, bazaar, (built by
+Mrs. Trollope, but the speculation failed), and divers churches, in which
+you may see well-dressed women, and hear orthodox, heterodox, and every
+other species of doctrine, promulgated and enforced by strength of lungs,
+and length of argument, with pulpit-drum accompaniment, and all other
+requisites _ad captandum vulgus_.
+
+The city stands on two plains: one called the bottom, extends about 260
+yards back from the river, and is three miles in length, from Deer Creek
+to Mill Creek; the other is fifty feet higher than the first, and is
+called the Hill; this extends back about a mile. The bottom is sixty-five
+feet above low water mark. In 1815 the population was estimated at 6000,
+and at present it is supposed to be upwards of 25,000 souls. By means of
+the Dayton canal, which runs from that town nearly parallel with the "Big
+Miami" river, a very extensive trade, for all kinds of produce, is
+established with the back country. Steamers are constantly arriving at,
+and departing from the wharf, on their passage up and down the river. This
+is one of the many examples to be met with in the western country, of
+towns springing into importance within the memory of comparatively young
+men--a log-house is still standing, which is shewn as the first habitation
+built by the backwoodsman, who squatted in the forest where now stands a
+handsome and flourishing city.
+
+On arriving at Cincinnati, I learned that my friend T---- had taken up his
+abode at a farm-house a few miles from town, where I accordingly repaired,
+and found him in good health, and initiated into all the manners, habits,
+customs, and diversions of the natives. Farming people in Ohio work hard.
+The women have no sinecures, being occupied the greater part of the day in
+cooking; as they breakfast at eight, dine at half-past twelve, and sup at
+six, and at each of these meals, meat, and other cooked dishes are served
+up. In farming they co-operate with each other. When a farmer wishes to
+have his corn husked, he rides round to his neighbours and informs them of
+his intention. An invitation of this kind was once given in my presence.
+The farmer entered the house, sat down, and after the customary
+compliments were passed, in the usual laconic style, the following
+dialogue took place. "I guess I'll husk my corn to-morrow
+afternoon."--"You've a mighty heap this year."--"Considerable of corn."
+The host at length said, "Well, I guess we'll be along"--and the matter
+was arranged. All these gatherings are under the denomination of
+"frolics"--such as "corn-husking frolic," "apple-cutting frolic,"
+"quilting frolic," &c.
+
+Being somewhat curious in respect to national amusements, I attended a
+"corn-husking frolic" in the neighbourhood of Cincinnati. The corn was
+heaped up into a sort of hillock close by the granary, on which the young
+"Ohiohians" and "buck-eyes"--the lasses of Ohio are called
+"buck-eyes"--seated themselves in pairs; while the old wives, and old
+farmers were posted around, doing little, but talking much. Now the laws
+of "corn-husking frolics" ordain, that for each red ear that a youth
+finds, he is entitled to exact a kiss from his partner. There were two or
+three young Irishmen in the group, and I could observe the rogues kissing
+half-a-dozen times on the same red ears. Each of them laid a red-ear close
+by him, and after every two or three he'd husk, up he'd hold the
+redoubtable red-ear to the astonished eyes of the giggling lass who sate
+beside him, and most unrelentingly inflict the penalty. The "gude wives"
+marvelled much at the unprecedented number of red-ears which that lot of
+corn contained: by-and-by, they thought it "a kind of curious" that the
+Irishmen should find so many of them--at length, the cheat was discovered,
+amidst roars of laughter. The old farmers said the lads were "wide
+awake," and the "buck-eyes" declared that there was no being up to the
+plaguy Irishmen "no how," for they were always sure to have every thing
+their own way. But the mischief of it was, the young Americans took the
+hint, and the poor "buck-eyes" got nothing like fair play for the
+remainder of that evening. All agreed that there was more laughing, and
+more kissing done at that, than had been known at any corn-husking frolic
+since "the Declaration."
+
+The farmers of Ohio are a class of people about equivalent to our second
+and third rate farmer, inasmuch as they work themselves, but possessing
+infinitely more independence in their character and deportment. Every
+white male, who is a citizen of the United States, and has resided one
+year in the state, and paid taxes, has a vote. The members of the
+legislature are elected annually, and those of the senate biennially; half
+of the members of the latter branch vacating their seats every year. The
+representatives, in addition to the qualifications necessary to the
+elector, must be twenty-five years of age; and the senators must have
+resided in the state two years, and must be thirty years of age. The
+governor must be thirty years of age, an inhabitant of the state four
+years, and a citizen of the United States twelve years,--he is eligible
+only for six years in eight.
+
+Notwithstanding the numerous religious sects that are to be found in this
+country, there is nothing like sectarian animosity prevailing. This is to
+be attributed to the ministers of religion being paid as they deserve, and
+no one class of people being taxed to support the religious tenets of
+another.
+
+The farmers of this state are by no means religious, in a doctrinal sense;
+on the contrary, they appear indifferent on matters of this nature. The
+girls _sometimes_ go to church, which here, as in all Christian countries,
+is equivalent to the bazaars of Smyrna and Bagdad; and as the girls go,
+their "dads" must pay the parson. The Methodists are very zealous, and
+have frequent "revivals" and "camp-meetings." I was at two of the latter
+assemblages, one in Kentucky, and the other in Ohio. I shall endeavour to
+convey some idea of this extraordinary species of religious festival.
+
+To the right of Cheriot, which lies in a westerly direction, about ten
+miles from Cincinnati, under the shade of tall oak and elm trees, the camp
+was pitched in a quadrangular form. Three sides were occupied by tents for
+the congregation, and the fourth by booths for the preachers. A little in
+advance before the booths was erected a platform for the performing
+preacher, and at the foot of this, inclosed by forms, was a species of
+sanctuary, called "the penitents' pen." People of every denomination might
+be seen here, allured by various motives. The girls, dressed in all
+colours of the rainbow, congregated to display their persons and
+costumes; the young men came to see the girls, and considered it a sort of
+"frolic;" and the old women, induced by fanaticism, and other motives,
+assembled in large numbers, and waited with patience for the proper season
+of repentance. At the intervals between the "preachments," the young
+married and unmarried women promenaded round the tents, and their smiling
+faces formed a striking contrast to the demure countenances of their more
+experienced sisters, who, according to their age or temperament, descanted
+on the folly, or condemned the sinfulness of such conduct. Some of those
+old dames, I was informed, were decoy birds, who shared the profits with
+the preachers, and attended all the "camp-meetings" in the country.
+
+The psalmodies were performed in the true Yankee style of nasal-melody,
+and at proper and seasonable intervals the preachings were delivered. The
+preachers managed their tones and discourses admirably, and certainly
+displayed a good deal of tact in their calling. They use the most
+extravagant gestures--astounding bellowings--a canting hypocritical
+whine--slow and solemn, although by no means _musical_ intonations, and
+the _et ceteras_ that complete the qualifications of a regular
+camp-meeting methodist parson. During the exhortations the brothers and
+sisters were calling out--Bless God! glory! glory! amen! God grant! Jesus!
+&c.
+
+At the adjournment for dinner, a knowing-looking gentleman was appointed
+to deliver an admonition. I admired this person much for the ingenuity he
+displayed in introducing the subject of collection, and the religious
+obligation of each and every individual to contribute largely to the
+support of the preacher and his brothers of the vineyard. He set forth the
+respectability of the county, as evinced by former contributions, and
+thence inferred, most logically, that the continuance of that respectable
+character depended on the amount of that day's collection. A conversation
+took place behind me, during this part of the preacher's exhortation,
+between three young farmers, which, as being characteristic, I shall
+repeat.
+
+"The old man is wide awake, I guess."
+
+"I reckon he knows a thing or two."
+
+"I calculate he's been on board a flat afore now."
+
+"Yes, I guess a Yankee 'd find it damned hard to sell him _hickory_
+nutmegs."
+
+"It'd take a pretty smart man to poke it on to a parson any how."
+
+"I guess'd it'd come to dollars and cents in the end."
+
+After sunset the place was lighted up by beacon fires and candles, and the
+scene seemed to be changing to one of more deep and awful interest. About
+nine o'clock the preachers began to rally their forces--the candles were
+snuffed--fuel was added to the fires--clean straw was shook in the
+"penitents' pen"--and every movement "gave dreadful note of preparation."
+At length the hour was sounded, and the faithful forthwith assembled. A
+chosen leader commenced to harangue--he bellowed--he roared--he whined--he
+shouted until he became actually hoarse, and the perspiration rolled down
+his face. Now, the faithful seemed to take the infection, and as if
+overcome by their excited feelings, flung themselves headlong on the straw
+into the penitents' pen--the old dames leading the way. The preachers, to
+the number of a dozen, gave a loud shout and rushed into the thick of the
+penitents. A scene now ensued that beggars all description. About twenty
+women, young and old, were lying in every direction and position, with
+caps and without caps, screeching, bawling, and kicking in hysterics, and
+profaning the name of Jesus. The preachers, on their knees amongst them,
+were with Stentorian voices exhorting them to call louder and louder on
+the Lord, until he came upon them; whilst their _attachees,_ with
+turned-up eyes and smiling countenances, were chanting hymns and shaking
+hands with the multitude. Some would now and then give a hearty laugh,
+which is an indication of superior grace, and is called "the holy laugh."
+The scene altogether was highly entertaining--penitents, parsons, caps,
+combs, and straw, jumbled in one heterogeneous mass, lay heaving on the
+ground, and formed at this juncture a grouping that might be done justice
+to by the pencil of Hogarth, or the pen of the author of Hudibras; but of
+which I fear an inferior pen or pencil must fail in conveying an adequate
+idea.
+
+The women were at length carried off, fainting, by their friends, and the
+preachers began to prepare for another scene. From the time of those
+faintings, the "new birth" is dated, which means a spiritual resurrection
+or revival.
+
+The scene that followed appeared to be a representation of "the Last
+Supper." The preachers assembled round a table, and acted as disciples,
+whilst one of them, the leader, presided. The bread was consecrated,
+divided and eaten--the wine served much after the same manner. The
+faithful, brothers and sisters, were now called upon to partake of the
+Sacrament--proper warning, however, being given to the gentlemen, that
+when the wine was handed to them, they were not to take a _drink_, as that
+was quite unnecessary, as a small sup would answer every purpose. One
+gentleman seemed to have forgotten this hint, and attempted to take rather
+more than a sup; but he was prevented by the administering preacher
+snatching the goblet from him with both hands. Many said they were obliged
+to substitute _brandy and water_ for wine; but for this fact I cannot
+vouch. Another straw-tumbling scene now began; and, as if by way of
+variety, the inmates of five or six tents got up similar scenes among
+themselves. The preachers left the field to join the tenters; and, if
+possible, surpassed their previous exhibitions. The women were
+occasionally making confessions, _pro bono publico_, when sundry
+"backslidings" were acknowledged for the edification of the multitude. We
+left the camp about two o'clock in the morning, when these poor fanatics
+were still in full cry.
+
+At Hell Town, near this place, there was an officer's muster held about
+this time. Every citizen exercising the elective franchise is also
+eligible to serve in the militia. There are two general musters held every
+year in each county, and several company meetings. Previous to the general
+muster there is an officer's muster, when the captains and subalterns are
+put through their exercise by the field officers. At this muster, which I
+attended, the superior officers in command certainly appeared to be
+sufficiently conversant with tactics, and explained the rationale of each
+movement in a clear and concise manner; but the captains and subalterns
+went through their exercise somewhat in the manner of the yeomen of the
+Green Island. When the gentlemen were placed in line, and attention was
+commanded, the General turned round to converse with his coadjutors--no
+sooner had he done this than about twenty heroes squatted _a l'Indien;_
+no doubt deeming it more consistent, the day being warm, to sit than
+stand. On the commander observing this movement, which he seemed to think
+quite unmilitary, he remonstrated--the warriors arose; but, alas! the just
+man _falls_ seven times a day, and the militia officers of Hamilton county
+seemed to think it not derogatory to their characters to _squat_ five or
+six. The offence was repeated several times, and as often censured. They
+wheeled into battalions, and out of battalions, in most glorious
+disorder--their _straight_ lines were _zig-zag._ In marching abreast, they
+came to a fence next the road--the tavern was opposite, and the temptation
+too great to be resisted--a number threw down their muskets--tumbled
+themselves over the fence, and rushed into the bar-room to refresh! An
+American's heart sickens at restraint, and nothing but necessity will
+oblige him to observe discipline.
+
+The question naturally arises, how would these forces resist the finely
+disciplined troops of Europe? The answer is short: If the Americans would
+consent to fight _a bataille rangee_ on one of the prairies of Illinois,
+undoubtedly the disciplined troops would prevail; but as neither their
+experience nor inclination is likely to lead them into such circumstances,
+my opinion is, that send the finest army Europe can produce into this
+country, in six months, the forests, swamps, and deadly rifle, united,
+will annihilate it--and let it be remembered, that at the battle of New
+Orleans, there were between two and three thousand British slain, and
+there were only twelve Americans killed, and perhaps double that number
+wounded. In patriotism and personal courage, the Americans are certainly
+not inferior to the people of any nation.
+
+There had been lately throughout the States a good deal of excitement
+produced by an attempt, made by the Presbyterians, to stop the mails on
+the sabbath. This party is headed by a Doctor Ely, of Philadelphia, a
+would-be "lord spiritual," and they made this merely as a trial of
+strength, preparatory to some other measures calculated to lead to a
+church establishment. Their designs, however, have been detected, and
+measures accordingly taken to resist them. At a meeting at which I was
+present at Cincinnati, the people were most enthusiastic, and some very
+strong resolutions were passed, expressive of their abhorrence of this
+attempt to violate the constitution of America.
+
+Good farms within about three or four miles of Cincinnati, one-third
+cleared, are sold at from thirty to fifty dollars per acre. Cows sell at
+from ten to twenty dollars. Horses, at from twenty-five to seventy-five
+and one hundred dollars. Sheep from two to three dollars. There are some
+tolerable flocks of sheep throughout this state, but they are of little
+value beyond the price of the wool, a most unaccountable antipathy to
+mutton existing among the inhabitants.
+
+Whilst on the banks of Lake Erie, having heard a great deal of
+conversation about the "lake fever," I made several inquiries from the
+inhabitants on that subject, the result of which confirmed me in the
+opinion, that the shores of the lakes are quite as healthy as any other
+part of the country, and that here, as elsewhere, the disease arises from
+stagnant pools, swamps, and masses of decayed animal and vegetable matter,
+which are allowed to remain and accumulate in the vicinity of settlements.
+When at New York, I met an old and wealthy farmer, who was himself,
+although eighty years of age, in the enjoyment of rude health. He informed
+me that he had resided in Canada, on the shores of Lake Erie, for the last
+fifty years, and that neither he nor any one of his family had ever been
+afflicted with fever of any description. The district in which he lived,
+was entirely free from local nuisances, and the inhabitants he
+represented as being as healthy as any in the United States.
+
+My observations, so far, lead me to conclude, that this climate agrees
+fully as well with Europeans as with the natives, indeed that the
+susceptibility to fever and ague is greater in the natives than in
+Europeans of good habits. The cause I conceive to be this: the early
+settlers had to encounter swamps of the most pestilential description, and
+dense forests through which the sun's rays had never penetrated, and which
+industry and cultivation have since made in a great measure to disappear.
+They notoriously suffered much from the ravages of malaria, and such as
+survived the baleful effects of this disease, escaped with impaired
+constitutions. Now this susceptibility to intermittent fever, appears to
+me to have been transmitted to their descendants, and to act as the
+predisposing cause. I have seen English and Irish people who have been in
+the country upwards of thirty years, who look just as you would expect to
+find persons of their age at home.
+
+There are situations evidently unhealthy, such as river bottoms, and the
+vicinity of creeks. The soil in those situations is alluvial, and its
+extreme fertility often induces unfortunate people to reside in them. The
+appearance of those persons in general is truly wretched.
+
+The women here, although they live as long as those in the old country,
+yet they fade much sooner, and, with few exceptions, have bad teeth.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER IV.
+
+
+Having decided on visiting New Harmony, in Indiana, where our friend B----
+had been for some time enjoying the delights of sylvan life, and the
+refinements of backwoods-society, T---- and I purchased a horse, and
+Dearborne, a species of light waggon used in this country for travelling.
+We furnished ourselves with a small axe, hunting knives, and all things
+necessary for encamping when occasion required, and so set out about the
+beginning of September.
+
+We crossed the Big-Miami river, and proceeded by a tolerable road, and
+some good farms, to Lawrenceburg, a handsome town on the Ohio, within a
+mile of the outlet of the Miami. From thence we drove on towards
+Wilmington; but our horse becoming jaded, we found it expedient to "camp
+out," within some miles of that town. Next morning we passed through
+Wilmington, but lost the direct track through the forest, and took the
+road to Versailles, which lay in a more northerly direction than the route
+we had proposed to ourselves. This road was one of those newly cut through
+the forest, and there frequently occurred intervals of five or six miles
+between the settlements; and of the road itself, a tolerably correct idea
+may be formed by noting the stipulations made with the contractors, which
+are solely that the roads shall be of a certain width, and that no stump
+shall be left projecting more than _fifteen inches_ above the ground.
+
+On the night of the second day we reached the vicinity of Versailles, and
+put up at the residence of a backwoodsman--a fine looking fellow, with a
+particularly ugly _squaw_. He had come from Kentucky five years
+before--sat down in the forest--"built him" a log-house--wielded his axe
+to the tune of "The Hunters of Kentucky," and had now eighteen acres of
+cleared land, and all the _et ceteras_ of a farm. We supped off
+venison-steaks and stewed squirrel. Our host told us that there was "a
+pretty smart chance of deer" in the neighbourhood, and that when he first
+"located," "there was a small sprinkling of _baar_" (bear), but that at
+present nothing of the kind was to be seen. There was very little comfort
+in the appearance of this establishment; yet the good dame had a
+side-saddle, hung on a peg in one of the apartments, which would not have
+disgraced the lady of an Irish squireen. This appears to be an article of
+great moment in the estimation of West-country ladies, and when nothing
+else about the house is even tolerable, the side-saddle is of the most
+fashionable pattern.
+
+From Versailles, we took the track to Vernon, through a rugged and swampy
+road, it having rained the night before. The country is hilly, and
+interspersed with runs, which are crossed with some difficulty, the
+descents and ascents being very considerable. The stumps, "corduroys"
+(rails laid horizontally across the road where the ground is marshy)
+swamps, and "republicans," (projecting roots of trees, so called from the
+stubborn tenacity with which they adhere to the ground, it being almost
+impossible to grub them up), rendered the difficulty of traversing this
+forest so great, that notwithstanding our utmost exertions we were unable
+to make more than sixteen miles from sunrise to sunset, when, both the
+horse and ourselves being completely exhausted, we halted until morning. I
+was awoke at sunrise by a "white-billed woodpecker," which was making the
+woods ring by the rattling of its bill against a tree. This is a large
+handsome bird, (the _picus principalis_ of Linnaeus), it is sometimes
+called here the wood-cock. Pigeons, squirrels, and turtle-doves abound in
+all these forests, and my friend being an expert gunner, we had always
+plenty of game for dinner. The morning was still grey when we set forward.
+
+We forded the Muskakituck river at Vernon, which stands on its head
+waters, and is a country seat. We then directed our course to Brownstown,
+on the east branch of White river. We found the roads still bad until we
+came within about ten miles of that place. There the country began to
+assume a more cultivated appearance, and the roads became tolerably good,
+being made through a sandy or gravelly district. In the neighbourhood of
+Brownstown there are some rich lands, and from that to Salem, a distance
+of twenty-two miles, we were much pleased with the country. We had been
+hitherto journeying through dense forests, and except when we came to a
+small town, could never see more than about ten yards on either side. All
+through Indiana the peaches were in great abundance this year, and such
+was the weight of fruit the trees had to sustain, that the branches were
+invariably broken where not propped.
+
+From Salem we took a westward track by Orleans to Hindostan, crossed the
+east branch of White river, and passed through Washington. At a short
+distance from this town, we had to cross White river again, near the west
+branch, which is much larger than the east branch. We attempted to ford
+it, and had got into the middle of the stream before we discovered that
+the bottom was quicksands. The horse was scared at the footing,--he
+plunged and broke the traces; however, after a tolerable wetting, we
+succeeded in getting safe out. A little above the place where we made the
+attempt, we found there was a ferry-flat. The ferryman considered our
+attempt as dangerous, for had we gone much further into the stream we
+should have shot into the quicksands in the deep current. This day the
+fates were most unpropitious to us; and had we had, like Socrates, a
+familiar demon at our elbow, he most assuredly would have warned us not
+to proceed. We had no sooner got into the ferry-flat, and pushed off from
+shore, than the horse tumbled overboard, carriage and all, and was with
+difficulty saved from drowning.
+
+We passed through Petersburg to Princeton; but having lost the track, and
+got into several _culs de sacs_, an occurrence which is by no means
+pleasant--as in this case you are unable to turn the carriage, and have no
+alternative but cutting down one or two small trees in order to effect a
+passage. After a great deal of danger and difficulty, we succeeded in
+returning on the true bridle-path, and arrived about ten at night in a
+small village, through which we had passed three hours before. The gloom
+and pitchy darkness of an American forest at night, cannot be conceived by
+the inhabitants of an open country, and the traversing a narrow path
+interspersed with stumps and logs is both fatiguing and dangerous. Our
+horse seemed so well aware of this danger, that whenever the night set
+in, he could not be induced to move, unless one of us walked a little in
+advance before him, when he would rest his nose on our arm and then
+proceed. We crossed the Potoka to Princeton, a neat town, surrounded by a
+fast settling country, and so on to Harmony.
+
+New Harmony is seated on the banks of the Wabash; and following the
+sinuosities of that river, it is distant sixty-four or five miles from the
+Ohio, but over land, not more than seventeen. This settlement was
+purchased by Messrs. Mac Clure and Owen from Mr. Rapp, in the year 1823.
+The Rappites had been in possession of the place for six years, during
+which they had erected several large brick buildings of a public nature,
+and sundry smaller ones as residences, and had cultivated a considerable
+quantity of land in the immediate vicinity of the town. Mr. Owen intended
+to have established here a community of union and mutual co-operation;
+but, from a too great confidence in the power of the system which he
+advocates, to _reform_ character, he has been necessitated to abandon that
+design at present.
+
+Harmony must have been certainly a desirable residence when it was the
+abode of the many literary and scientific characters who composed a part
+of that short-lived community. A few of these still linger here, and may
+be seen stalking through the streets of Harmony, like Marius among the
+ruins of Carthage, deploring the moral desolation that now reigns in this
+once happy place.
+
+Le Seur, the naturalist, and fellow traveller of Peron, in his voyage to
+the Austral regions, is still here. The suavity of manners, and the
+scientific acquirements of this gentleman, command the friendship and
+esteem of all those who have the pleasure of his acquaintance. He has a
+large collection of specimens connected with natural history, which the
+western parts of this country yield in abundance. The advantages presented
+here for the indulgence of retired habits, form at present the only
+attractions sufficient to induce him to live out of _la belle France_.
+
+Mr. Thomas Say, of Philadelphia, who accompanied Major Long on his
+expedition to the Rocky Mountains, also resides here. He too is a recluse,
+and is now preparing a work on his favourite subject, natural history. His
+garden contains a tolerable collection of Mexican and other exotic plants.
+
+Harmony is built on the second bottom of the Wabash, and is perhaps half a
+mile from the river at low water, the first bottom being about that
+breadth. Mosquitos abound here, and are extremely troublesome. There are
+several orchards in the neighbourhood well stocked with apples, peaches,
+&c.; and the soil being rich alluvion, the farms are productive--so much
+as fifty dollars per acre is asked for cleared land, close to the town.
+There is a great scarcity of money here, as in most parts of Indiana, and
+trade is chiefly carried on by barter. Pork, lard, corn, bacon, beans,
+&c., being given, by the farmers, to the store-keepers, in exchange for
+dry goods, cutlery, crockery-ware, &c. The store-keepers either sell the
+produce they have thus collected to river-traders, or forward it to New
+Orleans on their own account.
+
+We made an excursion down the river in true Indian style. Our party,
+consisting of four, equipped in a suitable manner, the weather being then
+delightfully warm, having stowed on board a canoe plenty of provisions,
+paddled down the Wabash. The scenery on the banks of this river is
+picturesque. The foliage in some places springs from the water's edge,
+whilst at other points it recedes, leaving a bar of fine white sand. The
+breadth of the Wabash, at Harmony, is about 200 yards, and it divides
+frequently on its course to the Ohio, forming islands of various degrees
+of beauty and magnitude. On one of these, about six miles from Harmony,
+called the "Cut-off," we determined on encamping. Accordingly, we moored
+our canoe--pitched our tent--lighted our fire--bathed--and having
+acquired enormous appetites by exertion, commenced the very agreeable
+operation of demolishing our provisions. We roamed about that and an
+adjacent island, until evening, when we returned to regale. These islands
+are generally covered with "cane brakes," and low brush wood, which
+renders it difficult to effect a passage across them. Cotton-wood, beech,
+maple, hickory, and white oak, are the trees in greatest abundance.
+Spice-wood, sassafras, and dittany, are also plenty. Of these a decoction
+is made, which some of the woods-people prefer to tea; but it is not in
+general repute. The paw-paw tree (_annona triloba_) produces a fruit
+somewhat resembling in taste and shape the fig-banana, but certainly much
+inferior to that delicious fruit. We saw several deer in the woods, and
+some cranes upon the shore. With smoking, &c., we passed the evening, and
+then retired--not to bed, for we had none--but to a right good
+substitute, a few dry leaves strewn upon the ground--our heads covered by
+the tent, and at our feet a large fire, which we kept up the whole night.
+Thus circumstanced, we found it by no means disagreeable.
+
+We spent greater part of next day much after the manner of the preceding,
+and concluded that it would be highly irrational to shoot game, having
+plenty of provisions; yet I suspect our being too lazy to hunt, influenced
+us not a little in that philosophical decision.
+
+Whilst at Harmony, I collected some information relative to the failure of
+the community, and I shall here give a slight sketch of the result of my
+inquiries. I must observe that so many, and such conflicting statements,
+respecting public measures, I believe never were before made by a body of
+persons dwelling within limits so confined as those of Harmony. Some of
+the _ci-devant_ "communicants" call Robert Owen a fool, whilst others
+brand him with still more opprobrious epithets: and I never could get two
+of them to agree as to the primary causes of the failure of that
+community.
+
+The community was composed of a heterogeneous mass, collected together by
+public advertisement, which may be divided into three classes. The first
+class was composed of a number of well-educated persons, who occupied
+their time in eating and drinking--dressing and promenading--attending
+balls, and _improving the habits_ of society; and they may be termed the
+_aristocracy_ of this Utopian republic. The second class was composed of
+practical co-operators, who were well inclined to work, but who had no
+share, or voice, in the management of affairs. The third and last class
+was a body of theoretical philosophers--Stoics, Platonics, Pythagoreans,
+Epicureans, Peripatetics, and Cynics, who amused themselves in _striking
+out plans_--exposing the errors of those in operation--caricaturing--and
+turning the whole proceedings into ridicule.
+
+The second class, disliking the species of co-operation afforded them by
+the first class, naturally became dissatisfied with their inactivity--and
+the third class laughed at them both. Matters were in this state for some
+time, until Mr. Owen found the funds were completely exhausted. He then
+stated that the community should divide; and that he would furnish land,
+and all necessary materials, for operations, to such of them as wished to
+form a community apart from the original establishment. This intimation
+was enough. The first class, with few exceptions, retired, followed by
+part of both the others, and all exclaiming against Mr. Owen's conduct. A
+person named Taylor, who had entered into a distillery speculation with
+one of Mr. Owen's sons, seized this opportunity to get the control of part
+of the property. Mr. Owen became embarrassed. Harmony was on the point of
+being sold by the sheriff--discord prevailed, and co-operation ceased.
+
+Of the many private and public charges brought against Mr. Owen, I shall
+only notice one. It is said that he invited people to throw up their
+establishments in other parts of America, and come to Harmony, conscious
+at the same time that the community could not succeed, and, indeed, not
+caring much about its success, having ultimately in view the increase of
+the value of his purchase, by collecting a number of persons together, and
+thus making a town--a common speculation in America. Whether these were
+his intentions or not, it is impossible for any man to assert or deny; but
+the fact is no less true, that such has been the result, and that the
+purchase has been increased in value by the failure of the community, so
+that _ultimately_ he is not likely to lose anything by the experiment. As
+to Mr. Owen's statements in public, "that he had been informed that the
+people of America were capable of governing themselves, and that he tried
+the experiment, and found they were not so,"--and that "the place having
+been purchased, it was necessary to get persons to occupy it." These
+constitute but an imperfect excuse for having induced the separation of
+families, caused many thriving establishments to be broken up, and even
+the ruin of some few individuals, who, although their capital was but
+small, yet having thrown it all into the common stock, when the community
+failed, found themselves in a state of complete destitution. These
+persons, then, forgetting the "doctrine of circumstances," and everything
+but the result, and the promises of Mr. Owen, censured him in no measured
+language, and cannot be convinced of the purity of his intentions in
+_that_ affair. Indeed, they have always at hand such a multiplicity of
+facts to prove that Mr. Owen himself mainly contributed to the failure,
+that one must be blinded by that partiality which so known a
+philanthropist necessarily inspires, not to be convinced that, however
+competent he may be to preach the doctrines of co-operation, he is
+totally incompetent to carry them into effect.
+
+But Mr. Owen has also declared in public that "the New Harmony experiment
+succeeded beyond his most sanguine expectations." Now what may be his
+peculiar notions of success, the public are totally ignorant, as he did
+not think fit to furnish any explanation; but this the public do know,
+that between the former and the latter statement there is a slight
+discrepancy.
+
+Some of Mr. Owen's friends _in London_ say, that every thing went on well
+at Harmony until he gave up the management--that is, that he governed the
+community for the first few weeks, the short period of its prosperity, and
+that it declined only from the time of his ceding the dictatorship. Now
+Mr. Owen _himself_ says, that he only interfered when he observed they
+were going wrong; implying that he did not interfere in the commencement,
+but did so subsequently. These are contradictions which would require a
+good deal of mystification to reconcile in appearance. All the
+communicants whom I met in America, although they differed on almost every
+other point, yet agreed on this,--that Mr. Owen interfered from first to
+last during his stay at Harmony, and that at the time when he first
+quitted it nothing but discord prevailed.
+
+Very little experience of a residence in the backwoods convinced Mr. Owen
+that he was not in the situation most consonant with his feelings. He had
+been, when in Europe, surrounded by people who regarded him as an oracle,
+and received his _ipse dixit_ as a sufficient solution for every
+difficulty. His situation at Harmony was very different; for most of the
+persons who came there had been accustomed to exercise their judgment in
+matters of practice, and this Mr. Owen is said not to have been able to
+endure. He would either evade, or refuse, answering direct questions,
+which naturally made men so accustomed to independence as the Americans
+are, indignant. The usual answer he gave to any presuming disciple who
+ventured to request an explanation, was, that "his young friend" was in a
+total state of ignorance, and that he should therefore attend the lectures
+more constantly for the future. There is this peculiarity respecting the
+philosophy propounded by Mr. Owen, which is, that after a pupil has been
+attending his lectures for eighteen months, he (Mr. Owen) declares that
+the said pupil knows nothing at all about his system. This certainly
+argues a defect either in matter or manner.
+
+His followers appear not to be aware of the fact, that Mr. Owen has not
+originated a single new idea in his whole book, but has simply put forward
+the notions of Rousseau, Voltaire, Condorcet, Plato, Sir Thomas More, &c.,
+in other language. His merit consists in this, and no small merit it is,
+that he has collated the ideas of these philosophers--arranged them in a
+tangible shape, and has devoted time and money to assist their
+dissemination.
+
+I find on one of his cards, printed for distribution, the following
+axioms, in the shape of queries, set forth as being _his_ doctrine,--not
+the doctrine which _he advocates_.
+
+"Does it depend upon man to be born of such and such parents?
+
+"Can he choose to take, or not to take, the opinions of his parents and
+instructors?
+
+"If born of Pagan or Mahometan parents, was it in his power to become a
+Christian?"
+
+These positions are laid down by Rousseau, in many passages of his works;
+but as one quotation will be sufficient to establish my assertion, I shall
+not trouble myself to look for others. He says, in his "Lettre a M. de
+Beaumont," p. 124, "A l'egard des objections sur les sectes particulieres
+dans lesquelles l'universe est divise, que ne puis-je leur donnez assez de
+force pour rendre chacun moins entete de la sienne et moins ennemi des
+autres; pour porter chacque homme a l'indulgence, a la douceur, par cette
+consideration si frappante et si naturelle; que s'il fut ne dans un autre
+pays, dans une autre secte il prendrait infailliblement pour l'erreur ce
+qu'il prends pour la verite, et pour la verite, ce qu'il prends pour
+l'erreur."
+
+None but a man whose mind had been warped by the too constant
+contemplation of one particular subject, as Mr. Owen's mind has been
+warped by the eternal consideration of the Utopian republic, could suppose
+the practicability of carrying those plans into full effect during the
+existence of the present generation. He himself, whilst preaching to his
+handful of disciples the doctrine of perfect equality, is acting on quite
+different principles; and he has his new lecture-room divided into
+compartments separating the classes in society--thus proving that even his
+few followers are unprepared for such a change as he wishes to introduce
+into society, and that he finds the necessity of temporising even with
+_them_.
+
+Another proof of the variance there is between the theory and the practice
+of Mr. Owen, may be found in the constitution of his new community. The
+first article says, that, "An annual subscription paid, of not less than
+one pound, constitutes _a member_, who is entitled to attend and _vote_ at
+all public meetings of the association." These may be termed the
+twenty-shilling freeholders of the community.[4] Then follow the other
+grades and conditions. A donation of one hundred pounds, constitutes _a
+visitor_ for life: a donation of five hundred pounds, _a vice-president_
+for life: and a donation of one thousand pounds, _a president_, who, "in
+addition to the last-mentioned privileges," will enjoy many others of a
+valuable nature.
+
+King James sold two hundred baronetcies of the United Kingdom, for one
+thousand pounds each; and Mr. Owen offers an unlimited number of
+presidentships in his incipient Utopia on the same advantageous terms. I
+by no means dispute that the distinction Mr. Owen will confer on his
+purchasers may be quite as valuable, in his eyes and those of his
+disciples, as that conferred by King James; yet I cannot help suspecting,
+despite of the insatiable yearning the aristocracy have after
+vain-glorious titles, that few of them will come forward as candidates for
+his Utopian honours.
+
+FOOTNOTES:
+
+[4] Since writing the above, I find that the constitution has already
+undergone an essential change; but Mr. Owen appears to entertain views of
+reformation very different indeed from our present Whig administration,
+for he has actually placed both _members_ and _visitors_ in schedule (A)
+of _his_ reform bill, and at one fell swoop has deprived this most
+deserving class of all political existence. None but vice-presidents and
+presidents have now the power of voting.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER V.
+
+
+Having remained about a fortnight at Harmony, we made the necessary
+arrangements, and, accompanied by B----, set out for St. Louis, in
+Missouri. We crossed the Wabash into Illinois, and proceeded to Albion,
+the settlement made by the late Mr. Birkbeck.
+
+Albion is at present a small insignificant town surrounded by prairies, on
+which there are several handsome farms. Messrs. Birkbeck and Flowers
+purchased large tracts of land in this neighbourhood, for the purpose of
+re-selling or letting it to English or other emigrants. These two
+gentlemen were of the class called in England, "gentlemen farmers," and
+brought with them from that country very large capitals; a considerable
+portion of which, in addition to the money laid out on purchase, they
+expended on improvements. They are both now dead--their property has
+entirely passed into other hands, and the members of their families who
+still remain in this country are in comparative indigence.
+
+The most inveterate hostility was manifested by the backwoods people
+towards those settlers, and the series of outrages and annoyances to which
+they were exposed, contributed not a little to shorten their days. It at
+length became notorious that neither Birkbeck nor Flowers could obtain
+redress for any grievance whatever, unless by appealing to the superior
+courts,--as both the magistrates and jurors were exclusively of the class
+of the offenders; and the "Supreme Court of the United States" declared,
+that the verdicts of the juries, and the decisions of the magistrates
+were, in many cases, so much at variance with the evidences, that they
+were disgraceful to the country. A son of the latter gentleman, a lad
+about fourteen years old, was killed in open day whilst walking in his
+father's garden, by a blow of an axe handle, which was flung at him across
+the fence. The evidence was clear against the murderer, and yet he was
+acquitted. Whilst I was at Vandalia, I saw in a list of lands for sale,
+amongst other lots to be sold for taxes, one of Mr. Flowers'. The fate of
+these gentlemen and their families should be a sufficient warning to
+persons of their class in England, not to attempt settling _in the
+backwoods_; or if they have that idea, to leave aside altogether refined
+notions, and never to bring with them either the feelings or the habits of
+a _gentleman farmer_. The whole secret and cause of this _guerre a mort_,
+declared by the backwoodsmen against Messrs. Birkbeck and Flowers, was,
+that when they first settled upon the prairies, they attempted to act the
+_patron_ and the _benefactor_, and considered themselves _entitled_ to
+some respect. Now a west-country American would rather die like a cock on
+a dunghill, than be patronized after the English fashion; he is not
+accustomed to receive benefactions, and cannot conceive that any man would
+voluntarily confer favours on him, without expecting something in return,
+either in the shape of labour, or goods;--and as to respect, that has
+totally disappeared from his code since "the Declaration."
+
+Mr. Birkbeck was called "Emperor of the Prairies;" and notwithstanding the
+hostility of his neighbours, he seems to have been much respected in the
+other parts of Illinois, as he was chosen secretary of state; and in that
+character he died, in 1825. He at last devoted himself entirely to gaining
+political influence, seeing that it was the duty of every man in a free
+country to be a politician, and that he who "takes no interest in
+political affairs," must be a bad man, or must want capacity to act in the
+common occurrences of life.
+
+From Albion we proceeded towards the Little Wabash; but had not got many
+miles from that town, when an accident occurred which delayed us some
+time. We were driving along through a wood of scrub-oak, or barren, when
+our carriage, coming in contact with a stump that lay concealed beneath
+high grass, was pitched into a rut--it was upset--and before we could
+recover ourselves, away went the horse dashing through the wood, leaving
+the hind wheels and body of the vehicle behind. He took the path we had
+passed over, and fortunately halted at the next corn-field. We repaired
+the damage in a temporary manner, and again set forward.
+
+After having crossed the Little Wabash, we had to pass through three miles
+of swamp frequently above our ancles in the mire, for the horse could
+scarcely drag the empty waggon. We at length came out on "Hardgrove's
+prairie." The prospect which here presented itself was extremely
+gratifying to our eyes. Since I had left the little prairie in the
+Wyandot reserve, I had been buried in eternal forests; and,
+notwithstanding all the efforts one may make to rally one's spirits, still
+the heart of a European sickens at the sameness of the scene, and he
+cannot get rid of the idea of imprisonment, where the visible horizon is
+never more distant than five or six hundred yards. Yet this is the delight
+of an Indian or a backwoodsman, and the gloomy ferocity that characterizes
+these people is evidently engendered by the surrounding scenery, and may
+be considered as indigenous to the forest. Hardgrove's is perhaps the
+handsomest prairie in Illinois--before us lay a rich green undulating
+meadow, and on either side, clusters of trees, interspersed through this
+vast plain in beautiful irregularity--the waving of the high grass, and
+the distant groves rearing their heads just above the horizontal line,
+like the first glimpse of land to the weary navigator, formed a
+combination of ideas peculiar to the scene which lay before us.
+
+With the exception of one or two miles of wood, occasionally, the whole of
+our journey through Illinois lay over prairie ground, and the roads were
+so level, that without any extraordinary exertion on the part of our
+horse, he carried us from thirty to forty miles a day.
+
+We next crossed the "grand prairie," passing over the Indian trace.
+Although this is by no means so picturesque as Hardgrove's, yet the
+boundless prospect that is presented on first entering this prairie is far
+the more sublime--the ideas expand, and the imagination is carried far
+beyond the limits of the eye. We saw some deer scouring the plains, and
+several "prairie wolves" skulking in the high grass--this animal is
+sometimes destructive to sheep. The size is about that of our fox. Most
+farmers keep three or four hounds, which are trained to combat the wolf.
+The training is thus--a dead wolf is first shewn to a young dog, when he
+is set on to tear it; the next process is to muzzle a live wolf, and tie
+him to a stake, when the dog of course kills him; the last is, setting the
+dog on an unmuzzled wolf, which has been tied to a stake, with his legs
+shackled. The dog being thus accustomed to be always the victor, never
+fails to attack and kill the prairie wolf whenever he meets him.
+
+Within thirteen miles of Carlisle, we stopped at an inn, a solitary
+establishment, the nearest habitation being more than six miles distant.
+The landlord, Mr. Elliot, told us that he was unable to accommodate us
+with beds, as his house was already quite full; but that if we could
+dispense with beds, he would provide us with every thing else. Having no
+alternative, we of course acceded to his proposal. There was then holding
+at his house what is termed an "inn fair," or the day after the wedding.
+The marriage takes place at the house of the bride's father, and the day
+following a party is given by the bridegroom, when he takes home his wife.
+The people here assembled had an extremely healthy appearance, and some
+of the girls were decidedly handsome, having, with fine florid
+complexions, regular features and good teeth. The landlord and his sons
+were very civil, as indeed were all the company there assembled.
+
+A great many respectable English yeomen have at different periods settled
+in Illinois, which has contributed not a little to improve the state of
+society; for the inhabitants of these prairies, generally speaking, are
+much more agreeable than those of most other parts of the western country.
+
+When the night was tolerably far advanced, the decks were cleared, and
+three feather beds were placed _seriatem_ on the floor, on which a general
+scramble took place for berths--we wrapped ourselves in our cloaks, and
+lay seventeen in a bed until morning, when we arose, and went out to "have
+a wash." The practice at all inns and boarding-houses throughout the
+western country, excepting at those in the more considerable towns, is to
+perform ablutions gregariously, under one of the porches, either before or
+behind the house--thus attendance is avoided, and the interior is kept
+free from all manner of pollutions.
+
+An abundance of good stone-coal is found all through this state, of which
+I saw several specimens. Were it not for this circumstance, the difficulty
+of procuring wood for fuel and fencing, would more than counterbalance the
+advantages, in other respects, presented to settlers on the prairies.
+
+The average crops of Indian corn are about fifty bushels per acre, which
+when planted, they seldom plough or hoe more than once. In the bottom
+lands of Indiana and Ohio, from seventy to eighty bushels per acre is
+commonly produced, but with twice the quantity of labour and attention,
+independent of the trouble of clearing. There are two denominations of
+prairie: the upland, and the river or bottom prairie; the latter is more
+fertile than the former, having a greater body of alluvion, yet there are
+many of the upland prairies extremely rich, particularly those in the
+neighbourhood of the Wabash. The depth of the vegetable soil on some of
+those plains, has been found frequently to be from eighteen to twenty
+feet, but the ordinary depth is more commonly under five. The upland
+prairies are much more extensive than the river prairies, and are
+invariably free from intermittent fever--an exemption, which to emigrants
+must be of the utmost importance.
+
+Previous to our leaving Elliott's inn, we witnessed a chase of two wolves,
+which had the boldness to come to the sheep-pens close to the house.
+Unfortunately the dogs were not at hand, and the wolves escaped among the
+high grass. Mr. Elliott positively refused accepting of any compensation
+in lieu of our supper and lodging: he said he considered our lodging a
+thing not to be spoken of; and as to our supper--which by-the-by was a
+capital one--he had invited us to that. We merely paid for the horse,
+thanked him for his hospitality, and departed. During our journey through
+Indiana we had invariably to use persuasion, in order to induce the
+farmers to take money for either milk or fruit; and whenever we stayed at
+a farm-house, we never paid more than what appeared to be barely
+sufficient to cover the actual cost of what we consumed.
+
+At Carlisle, a village containing about a dozen houses, we got our vehicle
+repaired. We required a new shaft: the smith walked deliberately out--cast
+his eye on a rail of the fence close by, and in half an hour he had
+finished a capital shaft of white oak.
+
+The next town we came to was Lebanon, and we determined on staying there
+that evening, in order to witness a revival. They have no regular places
+of worship on the prairies, and the inhabitants are therefore subject to
+the incursions of itinerant preachers, who migrate annually, in swarms,
+from the more thickly settled districts. There appeared to be a great
+lack of zeal among the denizens of Lebanon, as notwithstanding the
+energetic exhortations of the preachers, and their fulminating
+denunciations against backsliders, they failed in exciting much
+enthusiasm. The meeting ended, as is customary on such occasions, by a
+collection for the preachers, who set out on horseback, next morning, to
+levy contributions on another body of the natives.
+
+From Lebanon we proceeded across a chain of hills, and came in on a
+beautiful plain, called the "American bottom." Some of those hills were
+clear to the summit, while others were crowned with rich foliage. Before
+us, to the extreme right, were six or seven tumuli, or "Indian mounds;"
+and to the left, and immediately in front, lay a handsome wood. From the
+hills to the river is about six miles; and this space appears evidently to
+have been a lake at some former period, previous to the Mississippi's
+flowing through its present deep channel. Several stagnant ponds lay by
+our road; sufficient indications of the presence of disease, which this
+place has the character of producing in abundance. The beauty of the spot,
+and the fertility of the soil, have, notwithstanding, induced several
+English families to settle here. Their houses are built of brick, and
+their gardens and farms are laid out and fenced tastefully.
+
+After traversing the wood, we at length came in sight of the Mississippi,
+which is here about three quarters of a mile broad. There is a steam
+ferry-boat stationed at this point, (opposite St. Louis), the construction
+of which is rather singular. It is built nearly square, having in the
+middle a house containing two spacious apartments, and on each side decks,
+on which stand horses, oxen, waggons and carriages of every description.
+
+St. Louis is built on a bluff bank. The _principal_ streets rise one above
+the other, running parallel with the river; the houses are mostly built of
+stone, the bank being entirely composed of that material, the walls
+whitewashed, and the roofs covered with tin: from the opposite side it
+presents a very gay appearance. The ascent from the water's edge to the
+back of the town is considerable, but regular. The streets intersect each
+other at right angles, as do those of most American towns. They are much
+too narrow, having been laid down and built on from a plan designed by the
+Spanish commandant, previous to the Missouri territory becoming part of
+the United States. The population is estimated at six thousand, composed
+of Creole-French, Irish, and Americans.
+
+St. Louis must, at some future period, become decidedly the most important
+town in the western country, from its local and relative situation. It is
+seated on the most favourable point below the mouths of two noble rivers,
+the Missouri and the Illinois,[5] having at its back an immense tract of
+fertile country, and open and easy communication with the finest parts of
+the western and north-western territories. These advantages, added to the
+constant and uninterrupted intercourse which it enjoys with the southern
+ports, must ultimately make St. Louis a town of wealth and magnitude.
+
+We visited General Clarke's museum, which chiefly contains Indian costumes
+and implements of war, with some minerals and fossils, a portion of which
+he collected while on the expedition to the Rocky mountains with Lewis;
+and also, two sods of good black turf, from the bogs of Allen, in Ireland.
+A sight which was quite exhilarating, and reminded me so strongly of the
+fine odour which exhales from the products of illicit distillation, that
+guagers and potteen, like the phantoms of hallucination, were presenting
+themselves continually to my imagination for the remainder of that day.
+
+General Clarke is a tall, robust, grey-headed old man, with beetle-brows,
+and uncouthly aspect: his countenance is expressive of anything but
+intelligence; and his celebrity is said to have been gained principally by
+his having been the _companion_ of Lewis to the Rocky mountains.
+
+The country around St. Louis is principally prairie, and the soil
+luxuriant. There are many excellent farms, and some fine herds of cattle,
+in the neighbourhood: yet the supply of produce seems to be insufficient,
+as considerable quantities are imported annually from Louisville and
+Cincinnati. The principal lots of ground in and near the town are at the
+disposal of some five or six individuals, who, having thus created a
+monopoly, keep up the price. This, added to the little inducement held out
+to farming people in a slave state, where no man can work himself without
+losing _caste_, has mainly contributed to retard the increase of
+population and prosperity in the neighbourhood of St. Louis.
+
+There are two fur companies established here. The expeditions depart early
+in spring, and generally return late in autumn. This trade is very
+profitable. A person who is at present at the head of one of those
+companies, was five years ago a bankrupt, and is now considered wealthy.
+He bears the character of being a regular Yankee; and if the never giving
+a direct answer to a plain question constitutes a Yankee, he is one most
+decidedly. We had some intention of crossing to Santa Fe, in New Mexico,
+and we accordingly waited on him for the purpose of making some inquiries
+relative to the departure of the caravans; but to any of the plain
+questions we asked, we could not get a satisfactory answer,--at length,
+becoming tired of hedge-fighting, we departed, with quite as much
+information as we had before the interview.
+
+A trapping expedition is being fitted out for the Rocky mountains, on an
+extensive scale. The number of persons intended to be employed on this, is
+about two hundred. Teams for the transportation of merchandize and
+luggage are preparing, which is an accommodation never enjoyed before by
+trappers, as pack-horses have always hitherto been substituted. These
+waggons may also be found useful as _barricades_, in case of an attack
+from the Indians. The expedition will be absent two or three years.
+
+A trade with Santa Fe is also established. In the Spanish country the
+traders receive, in exchange for dry goods and merchandize of every
+description, specie, principally; which makes money much more plentiful
+here than in any other town in the western country.
+
+The caravans generally strike away, near the head waters of the Arkansas
+and Red rivers, to the south-west, close to the foot of the Rocky
+mountains--travelling above a thousand miles through the Indian country
+before they reach the Mexican boundary. These journeys are long and
+tedious, and require men of nerve and muscle to undertake them; the
+morasses and rivers which they have to cross--the extensive prairies and
+savannahs they have to traverse, and the dense forests to penetrate, are
+sufficient to subdue any but iron constitutions.
+
+The countries west of the Mississippi are likely to be greatly enriched by
+the trade with Mexico; as, in addition to the vast quantities of valuable
+merchandize procured from that country, specie to a very large amount is
+put in circulation, which to a new country is of incalculable advantage.
+The party which lately returned to Fayette in Missouri, brought 200,000
+dollars in specie.
+
+The lead-mines of Galena and Potosi inundate St. Louis with that metal.
+The latter mines are extensive, consisting of forty in number, and are
+situated near the head of Big-river, which flows into the Merrimac: a
+water transportation is thus effected to the Mississippi, eighteen miles
+below St. Louis. This, however, is only in the spring and fall, as at
+other seasons the Merrimac is not navigable for common-sized boats, at a
+greater distance than fifty miles from its mouth. The Merrimac is upwards
+of 200 miles in length, and at its outlet it is about 200 yards in
+breadth.
+
+The principal buildings in St. Louis are, the government-house, the
+theatre, the bank of the United States, and three or four Catholic and
+Protestant churches. The Catholic is the prevalent religion. There are two
+newspapers published here. Cafes, billiard tables, dancing houses, &c.,
+are in abundance.
+
+The inhabitants of St. Louis more resemble Europeans in their manners and
+habits than any other people I met with in the west. The more wealthy
+people generally spend some time in New Orleans every year, which makes
+them much more sociable, and much less _brusque_ than their neighbours.
+
+We visited Florissant, a French village, containing a convent and a young
+ladies' seminary. The country about this place pleased us much. We passed
+many fine farms--through open woodlands, which have much the appearance
+of domains--and across large tracts of sumach, the leaves of which at this
+season are no longer green, but have assumed a rich crimson hue. The
+Indians use these leaves as provision for the pipe.
+
+We stayed for eight days at a small village on the banks of the
+Mississippi, about six miles below St. Louis, and four above Jefferson
+barracks, called Carondalet, or, _en badinage, "vide poche."_ The
+inhabitants are nearly all Creole-French, and speak a miserable _patois_.
+The same love of pleasure which, with bravery, characterizes the French
+people in Europe, also distinguishes their descendants in Carondalet.
+Every Saturday night _les garcons et les filles_ meet to dance quadrilles.
+The girls dance well, and on these occasions they dress tastefully. These
+villagers live well, dress well, and dance well, but have
+miserable-looking habitations; the house of a Frenchman being always a
+secondary consideration. At one of those balls I observed a very pretty
+girl surrounded by gay young Frenchmen, with whom she was flirting in a
+style that would not have disgraced a belle from the _Faubourg St. Denis_,
+and turning to my neighbour, I asked him who she was; he replied, "Elle
+s'appelle Louise Constant, monsieur,--c'est la rose de village." Could a
+peasant of any other nation have expressed himself so prettily, or have
+been gallant with such a grace?
+
+Accompanied by our landlord, we visited Jefferson barracks. The officer to
+whom we had an introduction not being _chez-lui_ at that time, we were
+introduced to some other officers by our host, who united in his single
+person the triple capacity of squire, or magistrate, newspaper proprietor,
+and tavern-keeper. The officers, as may be expected, are men from every
+quarter of the Union, whose manners necessarily vary and partake of the
+character of their several states.
+
+The barracks stand on the bluffs of the Mississippi, and, with the river's
+bank, they form a parallelogram--the buildings are on three sides, and
+the fourth opens to the river; the descent from the extremity of the area
+to the water's edge is planted with trees, and the whole has a picturesque
+effect. These buildings have been almost entirely erected by the soldiers,
+who are compelled to work from morning till night at every kind of
+laborious employment. This arrangement has saved the state much money; yet
+the propriety of employing soldiers altogether in this manner is very
+questionable. Desertions are frequent, and the punishment hitherto
+inflicted for that crime has been flogging; but Jackson declares now that
+shooting must be resorted to. The soldiers are obliged to be servilely
+respectful to the officers, _pulling off_ the undress cap at their
+approach. This species of discipline may be pronounced inconsistent with
+the institutions of the country, yet when we come to consider the
+materials of which an _American_ regular regiment is composed, we shall
+find the difficulty of producing order and regularity in such a body much
+greater than at first view might be apprehended. In this country any man
+who wishes to work may employ himself profitably, consequently all those
+who sell their liberty by enlisting must be the very dregs of society--men
+without either character or industry--drunkards, thieves, and culprits who
+by flight have escaped the penitentiary, and enlisted under the impression
+that the life of a soldier was one of idleness; in which they have been
+most grievously mistaken. When we take these facts into consideration, the
+difficulty of managing a set of such fellows will appear more than a
+little. Yet unquestionably there are individuals among the officers whose
+bearing is calculated to inspire any thing but that respect which they so
+scrupulously exact, and without which they declare it would be impossible
+to command. The drillings take place on Sundays.
+
+Near Carondalet we visited two slave-holders, who employed slaves in
+agriculture; which practice experience has shewn in every instance to be
+unprofitable. One had thirteen; and yet every thing about his house rather
+indicated poverty than affluence. These slaves lived in a hut, among the
+outhouses, about twelve feet square--men, women, and children; and in
+every respect were fully as miserable and degraded in condition as the
+unfortunate wretches who reside in the lanes and alleys of St. Giles' and
+Spitalfields, with this exception, that _they_ were well fed. The other
+slave-holder, brother of the former, lived much in the same manner;--but
+it is necessary to observe that both these persons were hunters, and that
+hunters have nothing good in their houses but dogs and venison.
+
+T---- having gone on a hunting excursion with our host, and some of his
+friends, B---- and I drove the ladies to the plantation of the latter
+gentleman. He had a farm on the bluffs, which was broken and irregular, as
+is always the case in those situations. Large holes, called "sink-holes,"
+are numerous along these banks; the shape of them is precisely that of an
+inverted cone, through the apex of which the water sinks, and works its
+way into the river. Cedar trees grow on the rocks, and the scenery is in
+many places extremely grand. Wild-geese congregate in multitudes on the
+islands in the Mississippi, and at night send forth the most wild and
+piercing cries.
+
+Our hostess was one of those sylvan Amazons who could handle any thing,
+from the hunting-knife to the ponderous axe; and she dressed in the true
+sylph-like costume of the backwoods. Her _robe_, which appeared to be the
+only garment with which she encumbered herself, fitted her, as they say at
+sea, "like a purser's shirt on a handspike," and looked for all the world
+like an inverted sack, with appropriate apertures cut for head and arms;
+she wore shoes, in compliment to her guests--her hair hung about her
+shoulders in true Indian style; and altogether she was a genuine sample
+of backwoods' civilization. We were placed in a good bed--the state-bed of
+course--and as we lay, paid our devotions to Urania, and contemplated the
+beauties of the starry firmament, through an aperture in the roof which
+would have admitted a jackass.
+
+The proprietor assured us that his slaves produced him no more than the
+bare interest of the money invested in their purchase, and that he was a
+slave-holder not from choice, but because it was the prevailing practice
+of the country. He said he had two handsome Mulatto girls hired out at the
+barracks for six dollars per month each.
+
+In St. Louis there were seven Indian chiefs, hostages from the Ioway
+nation. Their features were handsome--with one exception, they had all
+aquiline noses--they were tall and finely proportioned, and altogether as
+fine-looking fellows as I ever saw. The colour of these Indians was much
+redder than that of any others I had seen; their heads were shaven, with
+the exception of a small stripe, extending from the centre of the
+crown back to the _organ of philoprogenitiveness_--the gallant
+scalping-lock--which was decorated with feathers so as somewhat to
+resemble the crest of a Greek or Roman helmet. Their bodies were uncovered
+from the waist upwards, except when they wore blankets, a modern
+substitute for the buffalo-robe, which they commonly wore over the left
+shoulder, leaving the right arm and breast bare. The Ioways are a nation
+dwelling in the Missouri territory, and these hostages delivered
+themselves up pending the investigation of an affray that had taken place
+between their people and the backwoodsmen.
+
+The day previous to our departure from St. Louis, the investigation took
+place in the Museum, which is also the office of Indian affairs. There
+were upwards of twenty Indians present, including the hostages. The charge
+made against these unfortunate people and on which they had been obliged
+to come six or seven hundred miles, to stand their trial before _white
+judges_, was, "that the Ioways had come down on the white
+territory--killed the cattle, and attacked the settlers, by which attack
+four citizens lost their lives." The principal chief implicated in the
+affair, named "Big-neck," was called upon for his defence. In the person
+of this man there was nothing remarkable. He advanced into the centre of
+the room, and disengaging his right arm from the blanket, shook hands with
+the judges, and then, in succession, with all the officers of the court.
+This ceremony being ended, he paused, and drawing himself up to his full
+height, extended his arm forward towards the judge, and inclining his head
+a little in the same direction, said, "If I had done that of which my
+white brother accuses me, I would not stand here now. The words of my
+red-headed father (General Clarke) have passed through both my ears, and I
+have remembered them. I am accused, and I am not guilty." (The
+interpreter translated each sentence as it was delivered, and gave it as
+nearly verbatim as possible--observe, the pronoun I is here used
+figuratively, for _his party, and for the tribe_). "I thought I would come
+down to see my red-headed father, to hold a talk with him.--I come across
+the line (boundary)--I see the cattle of my white brother dead--I see the
+Sauk kill them in great numbers--I said that there would be trouble--I
+turn to go to my village--I find I have no provisions--I say, let us go
+down to our white brother, and trade our powder and shot for a little--I
+do so, and again turn upon my tracks, until I reach my village."--He here
+paused, and looking sternly down the room, to where two Sauks sat, pointed
+his finger at them and said, "The Sauk, who always tells lie of me, goes
+to my white brother and says--the Ioway has killed your cattle. When the
+lie (the Sauk) had talked thus to my white brother, he comes, thirty, up
+to my village--we hear our brother is coming--we are glad, and leave our
+cabins to tell him he is welcome--but while I shake hands with my white
+brother," he said, pointing to his forehead, "my white brother shoots me
+through the head--my best chief--three of my young men, a squaw and his[6]
+child. We come from our huts unarmed--even without our blankets--and yet,
+while I shake hands with my white brother, he shoots me down--my best
+chief. My young men within, hear me shot--they rush out--they fire on my
+white brother--he falls, four--my people fly to the woods without their
+rifles." He then stated that four more Indians died in the forest of cold
+and starvation, fearing to return to their villages, and being without
+either blankets or guns. At length returning, and finding that their
+"great chiefs" had delivered themselves up, he came to stand his trial.
+
+The next person called was an old chief, named "Pumpkin," who corroborated
+the testimony of "Big-Neck," but had not been with the party when the
+Sauks were seen killing the cattle. When he came to that part of the story
+where the Indian comes from his wig-wam to meet the white man, he said,
+nearly in the same words used by Big-neck, "While I shake hands with my
+white brother, my white brother shoots me down--my best chief"--he here
+paused, and lifting his eyes above the heads of the auditors, his lip
+curling a little, but resuming again, almost immediately, its natural
+position, he pronounced in a low but distinct guttural tone, the Indian
+word meaning "_my_ son." His eye seemed fixed for a few seconds, and then,
+as if conscious of his weakness, and that the eyes of the great warriors
+of his tribe were upon him, he looked slowly round in a kind of solemn
+triumph, and resumed his tale. There was a strong feeling excited in the
+court by the misfortune of this old man, for the "best chief" of the
+Ioways was his _only_ son. The court asked the chiefs what they thought
+should be done in the matter? They spoke a few words to each other, and
+then answered promptly, that all they required was, that their white
+brother should be brought down also, and confronted with them. The
+prisoners were set at liberty on their parole.
+
+Nothing could have been more respectable than the silence and gravity of
+the Indians during the investigation. The hostages particularly, were
+really imposing in their appearance; an air of solemnity overspread their
+manly countenances, whilst their eyes bespoke that unquailing spirit which
+the habits and vicissitudes of a sylvan life are calculated rather to
+raise than depress. The Indians, when uncontaminated by the vices of the
+whites, are really a fine people; and it is melancholy to reflect that in
+a few centuries the red-man will be known only by name, for his total
+extinction seems almost inevitable.
+
+The upshot of this affair proved that the Indians' statement was correct,
+and a few presents was then thought sufficient to compensate the tribe for
+this most unwarrantable outrage.
+
+The fact of the prisoners being set free on their parole, proves the high
+character they maintain with the whites. An officer who had seen a great
+deal of service on the frontiers, assured me that, from _experience_, he
+had rather fall into the hands of the Indians, than of the
+backwoodsmen.[7] Once, while crossing one of the immense prairies in the
+Missouri territory during the winter season, this gentleman, Mr. R----,
+was seized with rheumatic pains, and unable to proceed. His party,
+consisting only of a few men, had no provisions, nor had they any means of
+taking him with them, being completely exhausted themselves--he was left
+on the plains to die. An old Indian chief, of one of the hostile tribes,
+chanced to find him; he carried him home, and nourished him until he was
+sufficiently recovered to eat with the warriors; when they came to the hut
+of his host, in order as they said to do honour to the unfortunate white
+chief. He remained in their village for two months; at the expiration of
+which time, being sufficiently recovered, they conducted him to the
+frontiers, took their leave, and retired.
+
+Clements Burleigh, who resided thirty years in the United States, says, in
+his "Advice to Emigrants," "It may be objected by some that it is
+dangerous to go to the frontier country, on account of the Indians, wild
+beasts, &c.; this is no more than a scarecrow. Indians in time of peace
+are perfectly inoffensive, and every dependence may be placed on them. If
+you call at their huts, you are invited to partake of what they have--they
+even will divide with you the last morsel they have, if they were starving
+themselves; and while you remain with them you are perfectly safe, as
+every individual of them would lose his life in your defence. This
+unfortunate portion of the human race has not been treated with that
+degree of justice and tenderness which people calling themselves
+Christians ought to have exercised towards them. Their lands have been
+forcibly taken from them in many instances without rendering them a
+compensation; and in their wars with the people of the United States, the
+most shocking cruelties have been exercised towards them. I myself fought
+against them in two campaigns, and was witness to scenes a repetition of
+which would chill the blood, and be only a monument of disgrace to people
+of my own colour.
+
+"Being in the neighbourhood of the Indians during the time of peace, need
+not alarm the emigrant, as the Indian will not be as dangerous to him as
+idle vagabonds that roam the woods and hunt. He has more to dread from
+these people of his own colour than from the Indians."
+
+FOOTNOTES:
+
+[5] Eighteen miles below the mouth of the Missouri, and thirty-six below
+that of the Illinois.
+
+[6] In the Indian tongue there is no distinction of masculine or feminine
+gender, but simply of animate and inanimate beings.
+
+[7] "The freedom of manners, and the uncertainty of life, from the
+various hazards to which it is inevitably exposed, imparts to the
+character of savages a species of liberality, under which are couched
+many benevolent principles; a respect for the aged, and in several
+instances a deference to their equals. The natural coldness of their
+temperament, admits of few outward demonstrations of civility. They are,
+however, affable in their mode, and are ever disposed to show towards
+strangers, and particularly towards the unfortunate, the strongest marks
+of hospitality. A savage will seldom hesitate to share with a
+fellow-creature oppressed by hunger, his last morsel of
+provisions."--Vide _Heriot_, p. 318.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER VI.
+
+
+On our return to Illinois from Missouri, we visited the tumuli in the
+"American bottom," for the purpose of more closely investigating the form
+and disposition of these sepulchral mounds. Their shape is invariably
+hemispherical, or of the _mamelle_ form. Throughout the country, from the
+banks of the Hudson to a considerable distance beyond the Mississippi,
+tumuli, and the remains of earthen fortifications were dispersed. Those of
+the former which have been removed, were found to contain human bones,
+earthen vessels, and utensils composed of alloyed metal; which latter fact
+is worthy of particular notice, as none of the Indians of North America
+are acquainted with the art of alloying. The vessels were generally of
+the form of drinking cups, or ewer-shaped cans, sometimes with a flange to
+admit a cover. One of those which I saw in a museum at Cincinnati, had
+three small knobs at the bottom on which it stood, and I was credibly
+informed that a dissenting clergyman, through the _esprit de metier_,
+undertook to prove from the circumstance, that the people who raised these
+mounds and fortifications must have been acquainted with the doctrine of
+the Trinity. How far the reverend gentleman is correct in his inference, I
+leave for theologians to decide.
+
+The Indians do not claim the mounds as depositories for _their_ dead, but
+are well aware of their containing human bones. They frequently encamp
+near them, and visit them on their journeys, but more as land marks than
+on any other account. They approach them with reverence, as they do all
+burial places, no matter of what people or nation. The Quapaws have a
+tradition, that they were raised "many hundred snows" ago, by a people
+that no longer exists; they say, that in those days game was so plenty
+that very little exertion was necessary to procure a subsistence, and
+there were then no wars--these happy people having then no employment,
+collected, merely for sport, these heaps of earth, which have ever since
+remained, and have subsequently been used by another people, who succeeded
+them, as depositories of their dead. Another tradition is, that they were
+erected by the Indians to protect them from the mammoths, until the Great
+Spirit took pity on his red children, and annihilated these enormous
+elephants. Most of the Indian nations concur in their having been the work
+of a people which had ceased to exist before the red men possessed those
+hunting grounds.
+
+The numerous mounds, fortifications, and burial caverns, and the skeletons
+and mummies, that have been discovered in these catacombs, sufficiently
+establish the fact, that a people altogether different from the present
+aborigines once inhabited these regions. At what period this by-gone
+people flourished still remains a matter of mere conjecture, for to the
+present time no discovery has been made that could lead to any plausible
+supposition.
+
+De Witt Clinton having paid more attention to the antiquities of America
+than any other person of whom I am aware, I shall here insert his
+description of the forts. He says, "These forts were, generally speaking,
+erected on the most commanding ground. The walls, or breastworks, were
+earthen. The ditches were on the exterior of the works. On some of the
+parapets, oak trees were to be seen, which, from the number of concentric
+circles, must have been standing one hundred and fifty, two hundred and
+sixty, and three hundred years; and there were evident indications, not
+only that they had sprung up since the erection of these works, but that
+they were at least a second growth. The trenches were in some cases deep
+and wide, and in others shallow and narrow; and the breastworks varied in
+altitude from three to eight feet. They sometimes had one, and sometimes
+two entrances, as was to be inferred from there being no ditches at those
+places. When the works were protected by a deep ravine, or large stream of
+water, no ditch was to be seen. The areas of these forts varied from two
+to six acres; and the form was in general an irregular ellipsis; in some
+of them, fragments of earthenware and pulverized substances, supposed to
+have been originally human bones, were to be found."
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+"I believe we may confidently pronounce, that all the hypotheses which
+attribute these works to Europeans are incorrect and fanciful: 1st. on
+account of the present number of the works; 2d. on account of their
+antiquity; having from every appearance been erected a long time before
+the discovery of America; and, finally, their form and manner are varient
+from European fortifications, either in ancient or modern times.
+
+"It is equally clear that they were not the work of the Indians. Until the
+Senecas, who are renowned for their national vanity, had seen the
+attention of the Americans attracted to these erections, and had invented
+the fabulous account of which I have spoken, the Indians of the present
+day did not pretend to know any thing about their origin. They were beyond
+the reach of all their traditions, and were lost in the abyss of
+unexplored antiquity."
+
+At the Bull shoals, east branch of White river in Missouri, several feet
+below the surface of the banks, _reliqua_ were found which indicated that
+this spot had formerly been the seat of metalurgical operations. The alloy
+appeared to be lead united with silver. Arrow-heads cut out of flint, and
+pieces of earthen pots which had evidently undergone the action of fire,
+were also found here. The period of time at which these operations were
+carried on in this place must have been very remote, as the present banks
+have been since entirely formed by alluvial deposits.
+
+Near the _Teel-te-nah_ (or dripping-fork), which empties itself into the
+La Platte, and not far distant from its junction with that river, there is
+an extensive cavern, in which are deposited several mummies. Some tribes
+which roam this region have a tradition, that the first Indian ascended
+through this aperture, and settled on the earth's surface.
+
+A few years since, on the Merrimac river in St. Louis county, a number of
+pigmy graves were discovered. The coffins were of stone; and the length of
+the bodies which they contained, judging from that of the coffins, could
+not have been more than from three feet and a half to four feet. The
+graves were numerous, and the skeletons in some instances nearly entire.
+
+In the month of June (1830), a party of gentlemen, whilst in pursuit of
+wild turkeys, in Hart county, Kentucky, discovered, on the top of a small
+knoll, a hole sufficiently large to admit a man's body. Having procured
+lights, they descended, and at the depth of about sixty feet, entered a
+cavern, sixteen or eighteen feet square, apparently hewn out of solid
+rock. The whole chamber was filled with human skeletons, which they
+supposed, _from the size_, to be those of women and children. The place
+was perfectly dry, and the bones were in a state of great preservation.
+They wished to ascertain how deep the bones lay, and dug through them
+between four and seven feet, but found them quite as plentiful as at the
+top: on coming to this depth, dampness appeared, and an unpleasant
+effluvia arising, obliged them to desist. There was no outlet to the
+cavern. A large snake, which appeared to be perfectly docile, passed
+several times round the apartment whilst they remained.
+
+In a museum at New York, I saw one of those mummies alluded to, which
+appeared to be remarkably small; but I had not an opportunity of examining
+it minutely. Those that have been found in the most perfect state of
+preservation were deposited in nitrous caves, and were enveloped in a
+manner so different from the practices of the Indians, that the idea
+cannot be entertained of their being the remains of the ancestors of the
+present race. Flint gives the following description of one of them which
+he carefully examined. He says, "The more the subject of the past races of
+men and animals in this region is investigated, the more perplexed it
+seems to become. The huge bones of the animals indicate them to be vastly
+larger than any that now exist on the earth. All that I have seen and
+heard of the remains of the men, would seem to shew that they were smaller
+than the men of our times. All the bodies that have been found in that
+high state of preservation, in which they were discovered in nitrous
+caves, were considerably smaller than the present ordinary stature of
+men. The two bodies that were found in the vast limestone cavern in
+Tennessee, one of which I saw at Lexington, were neither of them more than
+four feet in height. It seems to me that this must have been nearly the
+height of the living person. The teeth and nails did not seem to indicate
+the shrinking of the flesh from them in the desiccating process by which
+they were preserved. The teeth were separated by considerable intervals;
+and were small, long, white, and sharp, reviving the horrible images of
+nursery tales of ogres' teeth. The hair seemed to have been sandy, or
+inclining to yellow. It is well known that nothing is so uniform in the
+present Indian as his lank black hair. From the pains taken to preserve
+the bodies, and the great labour of making the funeral robes in which they
+were folded, they must have been of the 'blood-royal,' or personages of
+great consideration in their day. The person that I saw, had evidently
+died by a blow on the skull. The blood had coagulated there into a mass,
+of a texture and colour sufficiently marked to shew that it had been
+blood. The envelope of the body was double. Two splendid blankets,
+completely woven with the most beautiful feathers of the wild turkey,
+arranged in regular stripes and compartments, encircled it. The cloth on
+which these feathers were woven, was a kind of linen of neat texture, of
+the same kind with that which is now woven from the fibres of the nettle.
+The body was evidently that of a female of middle age, and I should
+suppose that her majesty weighed, when I saw her, six or eight pounds."
+
+The silly attempts that have been made to establish an oriental origin for
+the North American Indians, have never produced any other conviction in an
+unbiased mind, than that the _facts_ brought forward to support that
+theory existed only in the imaginations of those who advanced them. The
+colour, the form, the manners, habits, and propensities of the Indians,
+all combine to establish that they are a distinct race of human beings,
+and could never have emanated from any people of European, Asiatic, or
+African origin. The notion that climate would be sufficient to produce an
+essential change in the appearance of any number of individuals, cannot
+now be maintained; since from the discovery of America, Europeans,
+Africans, and Indians have inhabited all regions of this vast continent,
+without undergoing the slightest characteristic change from the
+descendants of the original stock, who have remained in their primitive
+locations. The Power that induces the existence of plants and lower
+animals indigenous to the different sections of the earth, seems also to
+induce the existence of a race of men peculiar to the regions in which
+they are found.
+
+The languages of America are radically different from those of the old
+world; and no similitude can be traced between the tongues of the red
+men, and those of any other people hitherto known. Jarvis, in his Paper on
+the Religion of the Indian Tribes of North America, says, "The best
+informed writers agree, that there are, exclusive of the Karalit or
+Esquimaux, three radical languages spoken by the Indians of North America.
+Mr. Heckwelder denominates them the Iroquois, the Lenape, and the
+Floridian. The Iroquois is spoken by the Six Nations, the Wyandots, or
+Hurons, the Nandowessies, the Assiniboils, and other tribes beyond the St.
+Lawrence. The Lenape, which is the most widely extended language on this
+side the Mississippi, was spoken by the tribes now extinct, who formerly
+inhabited Nova Scotia and the present state of Maine, the Abenakis,
+Micmacs, Canibas, Openangos, Soccokis, Etchemins, and Souriquois; dialects
+of it are now spoken by the Miamis, the Potawatomies, Missisangoes, and
+Kickapoos; the Eonestogas, Nanticokes, Shawanese, and Mohicans; the
+Algonquins, Knisteneaux, and Chippeways. The Floridian includes the
+languages of the Creeks, or Muskohgees, Chickesaws, Choctaws, Pascagoulas,
+Cherokees, Seminolese, and several other tribes in the southern states and
+Florida. These three languages are primitive; that is to say, are so
+distinct as to have no perceivable affinity. All, therefore, cannot be
+derived from the Hebrew; for it is a contradiction in terms to speak of
+three languages radically different, as derived from a common source.
+Which, then, we may well ask, is to be selected as the posterity of the
+Israelites: the Iroquois, the Lenape, or the southern Indians?
+
+"Besides, there is one striking peculiarity in the construction of
+American languages, which has no counterpart in the Hebrew. Instead of the
+ordinary division of genders, they divide into animate and inanimate. It
+is impossible to conceive that any nation, in whatever circumstances they
+might be placed, could depart in so remarkable a manner from the idioms of
+their native language."
+
+M. Duponceau, a Frenchman settled at Philadelphia, who is perhaps one of
+the first philologists of the age, concludes a treatise on the same
+subject with the following deductions:
+
+1.--"That the American languages, in general, are rich in words and in
+grammatical forms; and that in their complicated construction, the
+greatest order, method, and regularity prevail."
+
+2.--"That these complicated forms, which I call polysinthetic, appear to
+exist in all those languages, from Greenland to Cape Horn."[8]
+
+3.--"That these forms appear to differ essentially from those of the
+ancient and modern languages of the old hemisphere."
+
+We intended to proceed direct from the banks of the Mississippi to
+Edwardsville, which lies in a north-easterly direction from St. Louis, but
+unfortunately got on the wrong track, an occurrence by no means uncommon
+on the prairies, and by this casualty visited Troy, a _town_ containing
+two houses, namely, a "groggery," and a farm-house, both owned by the one
+person. The only resemblance this trans-Atlantic Ilium can possibly bear
+to the city of the ten years' siege, lies in the difficulty of
+ascertaining its location; for had we not been informed that here stood
+the town of Troy, we should have passed through this, as we did through
+many others, without ever suspecting the fact. Town-making is quite a
+speculation in the western country; and the first thing a man does after
+purchasing a few hundred acres of ground, is to "lay off a town lot:" this
+causes the maps to be studded with little circular dots, and great big
+names attached to them, which would lead one to suppose the population to
+be much greater than it is in reality.
+
+From Edwardsville, we proceeded by Ripley and Greenville, to Vandalia, the
+seat of government of the state.
+
+The prairies had lost much of the brilliant green colour which they
+possessed when we before crossed them, and they were now assuming rather a
+burnt appearance. Towards the close of autumn the grass generally becomes
+so dry as to be easily ignited, which formerly took place by accident, or
+otherwise, almost every year. The sight must be grand indeed; and we
+almost regretted that we were not so fortunate as to be in danger of being
+burnt alive--the sight would be worth the risk. There is a penalty
+attached to the firing of the woods or prairies, as the plantations are
+now becoming too numerously scattered over the country, and property is
+likely to be injured by these conflagrations.
+
+Towards the latter end of October, the season peculiar to this country,
+denominated the "Indian summer," commences, and lasts for some weeks. At
+this period, the atmosphere is suffused with a vapour which at a distance
+has the appearance of smoke, arising as it were from fires in the forest.
+The air is always calm and mild on those days, and the sun's disk assumes
+a broad, reddish appearance.
+
+Vandalia is the capital of Illinois, and is seated on the Kaskaskia river,
+which is only navigable to this point during the "freshets" in autumn and
+spring. The positions of the capitals are chosen for their centrality
+alone, and not with reference to any local advantages they may possess.
+
+Illinois is a free state, and its constitution is but a counterpart of
+those of Ohio and Indiana. The extent is 380 miles from north to south,
+and about 140 miles from east to west: area, 52,000 square miles, or
+33,280,000 acres. The population in 1810, was 12,282; in 1820, 55,211:
+white males, 29,401; white females, 24,387; slaves, 917; militia in 1821,
+2,031. The present population is, according to the last census, 157,575.
+The increase within the last ten years has been nearly 186 per cent.
+
+This state is better circumstanced than any other in the west. It is
+bounded on the north by the north-west territory; on the south by the
+Ohio; on the east by the Wabash and Lake Michigan; and on the west by the
+Mississippi. The Illinois river is navigable at almost all seasons to very
+nearly its head waters; and by means of a very short portage a
+communication is established between it and Lake Michigan. A canal is
+contemplated between this lake and the Wabash.
+
+The heath-hen (_tetrao cupido_), or as it is here called, the
+'Prairie-hen,' abounds on the prairies, particularly in the neighbourhood
+of barrens. This species of grouse, I believe, is not to be met with in
+Europe; nor has it been accurately described by any ornithologist before
+Wilson. One habit of the male of this bird is remarkable: at the season of
+incubation, the cocks assemble every morning just before day-break,
+outside the wood, and there exercise themselves tilting until the sun
+appears, when they disperse. Hunters have not failed to note the
+circumstance, and take advantage of it.
+
+We were frequently amused with the movements of the "Turkey buzzard"
+(_vultur aura_). This bird is well known in the southern and western
+states; and in the former is considered of so much utility that a penalty
+is inflicted on any person who may wantonly destroy it. It is perfectly
+harmless, never attacking even the smallest living animal, and seems
+always to prefer carrion when in a state of putrefaction. Except when
+rising from the ground, the buzzard never flaps its wings, but literally
+floats through the atmosphere, forming graceful ogees.
+
+During our journeys across Illinois, we passed several large bodies of
+settlers on their way to Sangamon and Morgan counties in that state. These
+counties are situated on the Illinois river, and are said to be fertile
+tracts. The mass of those persons were Georgians, Virginians, and
+Kentuckians, whose comparative poverty rendered their residence in slave
+states unpleasant.
+
+Perhaps there is nothing more remarkable in the character of the Americans
+than the indifference with which they leave their old habitations,
+friends, and relations. Each individual is taught to depend mainly on his
+own exertions, and therefore seldom expects or requires extraordinary
+assistance from any man. Attachments seldom exist here beyond that of
+ordinary acquaintances--these are easily found wherever one may go,
+arising from a variety of circumstances connected with their institutions
+and their necessities; and thus one of the great objections that present
+themselves to change with Europeans scarcely exists here. Observe, I apply
+this remark more particularly to the western and southern states; for the
+eastern states being longer settled and more thickly populated, these
+feelings, although they exist, yet they do so in a more modified degree.
+
+The appearance presented by the forests at this season is very
+beautiful--the trees are covered with leaves of almost every colour, from
+bright crimson to nearly snow-white; the admixture of green, brown,
+yellow, scarlet, &c., such as is almost peculiar to an American forest,
+produces a very pleasing combination.
+
+We again reached Albion, and retraced our steps from thence to Harmony,
+where we deposited our friend B----; and after having remained there for a
+few days to refresh ourselves and horse, set forward for Ohio. The weather
+had now become unfavourable, and the frequent rains and high winds were
+shaking the leaves down in myriads--the entire of our journey through
+Indiana being across forests, we were under one constant shower of leaves
+from Harmony to Cincinnati.
+
+One day while getting our horse fed at a tavern in Indiana, the following
+conversation took place between the persons there assembled. We were
+sitting at the door, surrounded by captains, lawyers, and squires, when
+one of the gentlemen demanded of another if there had not been a "gouging
+scrape" at the "Colonel's tavern" the evening before. He replied in the
+affirmative; and after having related the cause of quarrel, and said that
+the lie had been given, he continued, "the judge knocked the major right
+over, and jumped on to him in double quick time--they had it rough and
+tumble for about ten minutes--Lord J---s Alm----y!--as pretty a scrape as
+ever you _see'd_--the judge is a wonderfully lovely fellow." Then followed
+a description of the divers punishments inflicted by the combatants on
+each other--the major had his eye nearly "gouged" out, and the judge his
+chin almost bitten off. During the recital, the whole party was convulsed
+with laughter--in which we joined most heartily.
+
+We of course returned by a different route through Indiana, passing from
+Princeton to Portersville, and from thence through Paoli, Salem, and New
+Lexington, to Madison. The country about Madison is hilly and broken,
+which makes travelling tedious in the extreme. From the mouth of the Big
+Miami to Blue river, a range of hills runs parallel to the Ohio,
+alternately approaching to within a few perches of the river, and receding
+to a distance of one to two miles. Below Blue river the hills disappear,
+and the land becomes level and heavily timbered. There is also another
+range of hills, extending from the Falls of Ohio to the Wabash in a
+south-westerly direction, which are called the "knobs:" to the west of
+these are the "flats;" and from the Wabash to lake Michigan the country is
+champaign.
+
+Indianopolis is the capital of Indiana, and is seated on the White river.
+This state averages about 270 miles from north to south, and 144 miles
+from east to west: area, 37,000 square miles, or 23,680,000 acres. The
+population in 1810, was 24,520--in 1820, 147,178: white males, 79,919;
+white females, 69,107; slaves, 190; militia in 1821, 14,990. The present
+population is 341,582.
+
+Vast quantities of hogs are bred in the state of Indiana, and are suffered
+to rove at large in the forests in search of mast. They are in general
+perfectly wild, and when encountered suddenly bristle up like an enraged
+porcupine. Their legs are long; bodies thin; and tail lengthy and
+straight. I was informed that if one of those animals be wounded, its
+screams will draw an immense concourse of its brethren around it, and that
+the situation of a person under these circumstances, is by no means void
+of danger; as they will not fail to attack him _en masse_. We were once
+very nigh getting into a scrape of this description. Driving along through
+the forest, we had to pass a tract covered with a thick growth of
+brushwood--my friend seeing something stirring among the bushes, drew up,
+and taking it for a deer, called out to me to fire--I stood up in the
+vehicle, and levelled where I saw the movement, when, lo! out starts a
+bristling hog, with a grunt just in time to escape with a whole skin.
+
+One night having been accidently separated from my fellow-traveller, I had
+to stay in a miserable-looking hut close to a creek, the habitation of a
+backwoodsman. This person's appearance was extremely unprepossessing. The
+air of ferocity and wildness which characterized his countenance, added to
+his unhealthy, cadaverous aspect, would have been sufficient in any other
+country to make one feel unpleasant at passing the night alone under his
+roof. He resided in this unhealthy situation, because the land was
+extremely fertile; but stated that every fall some one of his family was
+ill, and none of them enjoyed good health. Now when we summed up the
+consequent loss of labour incident to ill health, the balance of profit
+seemed to be greatly against bottom land, and much in favour of the
+healthful prairies.
+
+The farmers use, almost exclusively, the sugar of the maple (_acer
+saccharinum_) which they manufacture themselves. The space in which a
+number of these trees are found, they call a "sugar camp." The process of
+manufacturing is as follows:--After the first frost, the trees are tapped,
+by perforating the trunk in an ascending direction. A spout of alder is
+inserted in the perforation, and the sap drips through this conduit into a
+trough of wood. The sap is then boiled with a spoonful of slacked lime,
+the white of an egg or two, and about a pint of milk, to every fifteen
+gallons. An ordinary tree commonly gives four pounds of good coarse brown
+sugar, which when refined can be made equal to superior lump sugar.
+
+A great portion of the roads through which we passed were mere horse
+paths, full of stumps, with shrubs entangled across them so thickly, that
+we were often obliged to dismount in order to cut away part of the
+impediment. Large trees which have fallen across the road, frequently
+intercept your passage, and you have no alternative but to lift the wheels
+of the vehicle over them.
+
+As we approached Cincinnati the difficulty of travelling became greatly
+augmented. The rains had cut up the roads into ravines, sometimes full
+three feet in depth, which, added to the clayey nature of the soil,
+completely exhausted the horse, and rendered him incapable of proceeding
+faster than a slow walk, even with the empty carriage.
+
+There are a number of Baptists residing at Cincinnati, who frequently
+entertain the inhabitants with public baptisms in the Ohio river. At one
+of those ceremonies, about this time, rather a ludicrous occurrence took
+place. The baptizing preacher stands up to his middle in the water, and
+the person to be baptized is led to him by another preacher. On this
+occasion the officiating clergyman was rather a slight man, and the lady
+to be baptized was extremely large and corpulent--he took her by the
+hands to perform the immersion, but notwithstanding his most strenuous
+exertions, he was thrown off his centre. She finding him yield, held
+still harder, until they both sowsed completely under the water, where
+they lay floundering and struggling for some time, amidst the shouts and
+laughter of the multitude assembled on shore. At length their brethren
+extricated them from this perilous situation.
+
+FOOTNOTES:
+
+[8] M. Duponceau adduces the following examples: "In the Arancanian
+language the word '_idnancloclavin_' means 'I do not wish to eat with
+him.' There is a similar verb in the Delaware tongue--'_n'schingiwipona_,'
+which means 'I do not like to eat with him.' To which may be added another
+example in the latter tongue--'_machtitschwanne_,'--this must be
+translated 'a cluster of islands with channels every way, so that it is
+in no place shut up, or impassable for craft.' This term is applied to the
+islands in the bay of New York."
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER VII.
+
+
+The weather having become cold and disagreeable towards the latter end of
+December, I set out for New Orleans. The larger class of steam-boats lay
+then at Shippingsport, immediately below the falls of Ohio, the river not
+being sufficiently high to enable them to pass over those rapids. Boats
+drawing from nineteen to twenty-six inches water can almost at all seasons
+ply on the Upper Ohio, and during the periods that the large boats are
+detained below the Falls, they are constantly employed in transporting
+produce, intended for the markets on the Mississippi, to Louisville, from
+whence it is drayed round to Shippingsport and re-shipped. Flat-boats are
+also employed for this purpose, and they are preferred, as they pass over
+the Falls, and thus land-carriage is avoided.
+
+Louisville is the chief town of Jefferson county, in Kentucky, and at
+present it is estimated to contain about 12,000 inhabitants, including
+slaves and free people of colour. The store-keepers here are more wealthy
+than those of Cincinnati, and their manners less disagreeable. The
+inhabitants of the latter town being mostly from the New England states,
+have in their dealings and manners that dry shrewdness which is the true
+Yankee characteristic. There are also located in Cincinnati some Irish
+pedlars, who have by all manner of means acquired wealth, and are now the
+"biggest bugs"[9] in the place.
+
+The public buildings of Louisville are few, and the streets are laid out
+in the usual style, crossing each other at right angles. It contains a
+few good brick dwelling-houses, and a number of excellent hack-carriages
+are stationed near the steam-boat landing. A canal round the Falls, from
+Beargrass-creek to Shippingsport, is being constructed, which will enable
+steam-boats of the largest tonnage to pass through; and thus it will open
+an uninterrupted intercourse between the Upper and Lower Ohio, and the
+Mississippi. The length of this canal is about two and a half miles, and
+the original estimate was 200,000 dollars, but this sum has been found
+insufficient.
+
+At Louisville I took a berth on board a boat for New Orleans. The
+steam-boats on the Mississippi are large, and splendidly appointed; the
+interior has more the appearance of a well fitted up dining-room than the
+cabin of a boat. The charge is twenty-five dollars, for which you are
+found in every thing except liquors. Meats, fowls, vegetables, fruits,
+preserves, &c., are served in abundance, and of the very best quality.
+Here you may see tradesmen, "nigger traders," farmers, "congress men,"
+captains, generals, and judges, all seated at the same table, in true
+republican simplicity. There is no appearance of awkwardness in the
+behaviour of the humblest person you see seated at those tables; and
+indeed their general good conduct is remarkable--I mean when contrasted
+with that of the same class in England. The truth is, the tradesman here
+finds himself of some importance in the scale of society, and endeavours
+to show that he is fully qualified to be seated at the same table, _en
+passant_, with the most wealthy citizen. No doubt the higher classes have
+some of that high polish rubbed off by these occasional contacts with
+their less-civilized fellow citizens; but the humbler classes decidedly
+gain what _they_ lose. All dress well, and are _American_ gentlemen.
+
+The Ohio is formed by the junction of the Alleghany and Monongahela rivers
+at Pittsburg, that town being seated in the fork--its breadth there, is
+between eight and nine hundred yards. From the mouths of those two rivers
+it narrows and deepens for some distance; but afterwards, from the
+accession of the many tributary streams by which it is supplied, gradually
+becomes wider and deeper, until it empties itself into the Mississippi.
+The length of the Ohio, following its meanders, is about 950 miles, and it
+may be said to be navigable almost the entire year, as the water must be
+unusually low when the smaller steam-boats cannot ply to Pittsburg. The
+character of this river is somewhat peculiar. But for the improvements on
+the banks, when you have seen six or eight miles of this stream, you are
+acquainted with the remainder as far as the Falls--that is to say, any
+variety that may be in the scenery will occur in any given six miles from
+Pittsburg to that point. Below Louisville there are one or two rocky
+bluffs, and the face of the country is somewhat different. The channel of
+the Upper Ohio lies between hills, which frequently approach the
+_mamelle_ form, and are covered with a heavy growth of timber. Where the
+hills or bluffs do not rise immediately from the river, but recede some
+distance, the space between the river and the hill is called bottom land,
+from the circumstance of its being overflown annually; or having at some
+former period formed part of the river's bed, which is indicated by the
+nature of the soil. The bluffs and bottoms invariably alternate; and when
+you have bluffs on one side, you are sure to have bottom on the other. The
+windings are extremely uniform, with few exceptions, curving in a
+serpentine form in so regular a manner, that the Indians always calculated
+the distance by the number of bends.
+
+"The Falls" are improperly so termed, as this obstruction is nothing more
+than a gradual descent for a distance of about a mile and a half, where
+the water, forcing its way over a rugged rocky bottom, presents the
+appearance of a rapid. Below this the country is of various
+aspects--hills, bottom-land, and high rocky bluffs; and towards the mouth,
+cotton-wood trees, (_populus angulata_), and cane brakes, are interspersed
+along the banks. The junction of these two noble rivers, the Ohio and
+Mississippi, is really a splendid sight--the scenery is picturesque, and
+the water at the point of union is fully two miles broad.
+
+The Mississippi[10] is in length, from its head waters to the _balize_ in
+the gulf of Mexico, about two thousand three hundred miles, and flows
+through an immense variety of country. The section through which it
+passes, before its junction with the Missouri, is represented as being
+elegantly diversified with woodlands, prairies, and rich bottoms, and the
+banks are lined with a luxuriant growth of plants and flowers. Before
+reaching the Missouri, the water of the Mississippi is perfectly limpid;
+but, from the mouth of that river it becomes turgid and muddy--flows
+through a flat, inundated country, and seems more like an immense flood,
+than an old and deep-channelled river. As far as great things can be
+compared to small, it much resembles, within its banks, the Rhone when
+flooded, as it sweeps through the department of Vaucluse, after its
+junction with the Saone.
+
+From St. Louis to New Orleans, a distance of twelve hundred miles, there
+are but six elevated points--the four Chickesaw bluffs, the Iron banks,
+and the Walnut hills. Numerous islands are interspersed through this
+river; and from the mouth of the Ohio, tall cotton-wood trees and
+cane-brakes grow in immense quantities along the banks; the latter, being
+evergreens, have a pleasing effect in the winter season. The windings of
+the Mississippi are, like those of the Ohio, constant, but not so
+serpentine, and some of them are of immense magnitude. You traverse every
+point of the compass in your passage up or down: for example, there is a
+bend near _Bayou Placquamine_, the length of which by the water is upwards
+of sixty miles, and from one point to the other across the distance is but
+three.
+
+The town of "Baton Rouge" is situated about 190 miles above New Orleans,
+and contains a small garrison;--the esplanade runs down to the
+water's-edge, and the whole has a pretty effect. Here the sugar
+plantations commence, and the face of the country is again changed--you
+find yourself in the regions of the south. For a distance of from
+half-a-mile to two miles back, at each side, the land is planted with
+sugar-canes, and highly cultivated. The planters' houses are tastefully
+built, surrounded by gardens full of orange-trees, flowers, and
+evergreens, presenting the idea of perpetual spring, which here is indeed
+the case. The winters are seldom more severe than a mild spring in
+England. I first came in on this region at night, at the season of
+planting, when the cast or used canes are burned in heaps on each
+plantation. The dark turgid waters--the distant fires, surrounded by
+clouds of white smoke ascending in winding columns to the skies--the
+stillness of the night, interrupted only by the occasional cry of the
+pelican or the crane, and the monotonous thumping of the steam-boat
+paddles, formed a strange combination; and had the days of witches and
+warlocks not long since passed away, one would have sworn that these
+gentry were performing incantations over the mystic cauldrons, casting
+"seven bullets," or "raising spirits from the vasty deep."
+
+The Mississippi is in few places more than from half-a-mile to a mile
+wide; and were one to judge of its magnitude by its breadth alone, a very
+erroneous estimate would be formed. It is only by contemplating the many
+vast rivers which empty themselves into the Mississippi that you can form
+a correct idea of the immense volume of water that flows through this
+channel into the Gulf of Mexico. Many of its larger tributary streams
+have the appearance of being as great as itself--the depth alone
+indicating the superiority of this mighty river over every other in
+America; and, considering its length, perhaps over any other in the world.
+
+The great valley of the Mississippi extends, in length, from the Gulf of
+Mexico to a distance of nearly 3000 miles; and is in breadth, from the
+base of the Alleghanies to the foot of the Rocky mountains, about 2,500
+miles. The soil is composed of alluvial deposits, to a depth of from
+twenty to fifty feet; and I have myself seen, near New Orleans, trees
+lying in the horizontal position six or seven feet below the surface. This
+valley has been frequently visited by earthquakes, which have sometimes
+changed part of the channel of the river, and at others formed lakes.
+Those which occurred between the years 1811 and 1813, did serious injury,
+particularly in the neighbourhood of New Madrid, near the west bank,
+below the mouth of the Ohio. At several points the bank is sunk eight or
+ten feet below the surface of the adjacent ground, with the trees
+remaining upright as before.
+
+New Orleans is seated on the south-east bank of the Mississippi; and,
+following the sinuosities of the current, about 109 miles from the Gulf of
+Mexico. The river takes here a right-angular sweep, and the city proper is
+built on the exterior point of the bend, the _fauxbourgs_ extending at
+each side along the banks. At high water the river rises three feet above
+any part of the city; consequently, were it not for levees that have been
+constructed here, and also along the banks of the river for more than a
+hundred miles, at both sides, above and below, the whole country would be
+periodically inundated. The fall from the levee to Bayou St. John, which
+communicates with _Lac Pontchartrain_, is about thirty feet, and the
+distance one mile. This fall is certainly inconsiderable; but I apprehend
+that it would be sufficient to drain the streets effectually, if proper
+attention were directed to that object.
+
+The city extends only half-a-mile back, and, including the _fauxbourgs_,
+about two miles along the river. The streets, being only partially paved,
+can never be perfectly cleaned, and stagnant water remains in the kennels
+at all seasons; this and the exhalations from the swamps in warm weather,
+produce that pestilential scourge with which the place is annually
+afflicted. The mortality here last season (the autumn of 1829) has been
+variously stated in the public prints at from five to seven thousand, who
+died of the yellow fever in the space of about ten weeks. This statement,
+however, is erroneous; as, from information which I received from the
+sexton of the American grave-yard, and from the number of fresh graves
+which I saw there, I am inclined to think that the total amount falls
+short of 2500, out of a resident population of less than 40,000 souls.
+About 700 were buried in the American grave-yard, and perhaps double that
+number in that of the French.
+
+The port of New Orleans presents the most extraordinary medley of any port
+in the world. Craft of every possible variety may be seen moored along the
+levees, and the markets and adjacent streets crowded with people of almost
+every nation in Europe, Africa, and America, who create a frightful
+confusion of tongues. A particular part of the quay is appropriated to
+each description of craft, and a penalty is enforced for any deviation
+from port regulations. The upper part is occupied with flat-boats, arks,
+peeroges, rafts, keel-boats, canoes, and steam-boats; and below these are
+stationed schooners, cutters, brigs, ships, &c., in regular succession.
+The levee is almost constantly filled with merchandize; and the scene of
+bustle and confusion which is exhibited here during the early part of the
+day, fully proves the large amount of commercial intercourse which this
+city enjoys.
+
+When Louisiana was ceded to the United States, in 1803, Orleans was then
+entirely occupied by Creole-French and Spanish, consequently the majority
+of the habitations and public buildings, are in the French and Spanish
+style. The cathedral, which presents a handsome facade of about seventy
+feet, the town-hall, and courts, occupy one side of the _place
+d'armes,_--these, with the American theatre, the _theatre d'Orleans,_ or
+French opera house, the hospital, and three or four churches, are the only
+public buildings in the city. The houses are all flat-roofed, and those in
+the back streets and fauxbourgs are seldom more than one story high; the
+practice of building houses in this manner was pursued in order to avoid
+injury from tornadoes, which occasionally visit the valley of the
+Mississippi; latterly they have not been of frequent occurrence, although
+when they do arise, they are extremely violent. The town of Urbana, in
+Ohio, this year (1830) has been nearly destroyed by a visitation of this
+nature.
+
+Pharo-banks, roulette-tables, and gambling of all kinds, are publicly
+permitted; but the proprietor of each establishment pays a tax of 5000
+dollars per annum. The _theatre d'Orleans_ on Sunday evenings, is
+generally crowded with beautiful French women. Every night during the
+winter season there is a _bal pare et masque_, and occasionally "quadroon
+balls," which are attended by the young men of the city and their _cheres
+amies_ quadroons, who are decidedly the finest women in the country, being
+well formed, and graceful in their carriage. The Louisianians are
+prohibited by law from marrying with quadroons, although this _caste_ is
+free, and many of them have been educated in France, and are highly
+accomplished.
+
+In the south, slavery exists in its most unqualified condition, wanting
+those milder modifications which serve to dress and decorate the person of
+this ugly fiend. Here may be seen hundreds of animals of our own genus
+exposed in the public bazaars for sale, and examined with as much care,
+and precisely in the same manner, as we examine horses. In some of the
+slave states the law prohibits the separation of families, but this
+prohibition is little attended to, as the slave has no possibility of
+coming in contact with any dispensers of justice but the magistrates of
+the state, who, being slave-holders themselves, instead of redressing his
+grievances, would be more likely to order him a lashing, for presuming to
+complain. Many melancholy instances occur here, which clearly illustrate
+the evils of slavery and its demoralizing influence on the human
+character. The arguments against slavery are deduced from self-evident
+propositions, and must carry conviction to every well organized mind; yet
+from their application being of too general a character, they seldom
+interest the feelings, and in the end leave less impression than the
+simple statement of a particular occurrence. During my stay, a Doctor
+---- came down the river with thirty slaves, among which were an old negro
+and negress, each between sixty and seventy years of age; this unfortunate
+old woman had borne twenty-one children, all of whom had been at different
+times sold in the Orleans market, and carried into other states, and into
+distant parts of Louisiana. The Doctor said, in order to induce her to
+leave home quietly, that he was bringing her into Louisiana for the
+purpose of placing her with some of her children--"and now," says the old
+negress, "aldo I suckle my massa at dis breast, yet now he sell me to
+sugar planter, after he sell all my children away from me." This gentleman
+was a strict Methodist, or "saint," and is, I was informed, much esteemed
+by the preachers of that persuasion, because of his liberal contributions
+to their support.
+
+Negresses, when young and likely, are often employed as wet nurses by
+white people, as also by either the planter or his friends, to administer
+to their sensual desires--this frequently as a matter of speculation, for
+if the offspring, a mulatto, be a handsome female, from 800 to 1000
+dollars may be obtained for her in the Orleans market.[11] It is an
+occurrence of no uncommon nature to see the Christian father sell his own
+daughter, and the brother his own sister, by the same father. Slaves do
+not marry, but pair at discretion; and the more children they produce, the
+better for their masters.
+
+On the Levee at New Orleans, are constantly exhibited specimens of the
+white man's humanity, in the persons of runaway slaves. When such an
+unfortunate negro is retaken, a log is chained to one of his legs, and
+round his neck is placed an iron collar, from which project three sharp
+prongs more than a foot in length each.
+
+The evils of this infernal system are beginning to re-act upon the
+Christians, who are latterly kept in a constant state of alarm, fearing
+the number and disposition of the blacks, which threaten at no far distant
+period to overwhelm the south with some dreadful calamity.[12] Three
+incendiary fires took place at Orleans, during the month I remained in
+that city, by which several thousand bales of cotton were consumed. The
+condition of the slaves on the sugar or rice plantations, is truly
+wretched. They are ill-fed, ill-clad, and worked in gangs under the
+superintendence of a driver, who is armed with a long whip, which he uses
+at discretion; and it is a fact, well known to persons who have visited
+slave countries, that punishments are more frequently inflicted to gratify
+the private pique or caprice of the driver, than for crime or neglect of
+duty.
+
+In the agricultural states, slave labour is found to be altogether
+unproductive, which causes this market to be inundated:--within the last
+two months, 5000 negros have been sold here. The state legislature has
+just passed a law, regulating the introduction of slaves, and commanding
+all free people of colour, who were not residents previous to 1825, to
+quit Louisiana in the space of six months. Georgia has enacted a law to
+the same effect, with the addition of making penal, _the teaching of
+people of colour to read or write_. The liberty of the press is by no
+means tolerated in the slave states, as both judges and juries will always
+decide according to the local laws, although totally at variance with the
+constitution. W.L. Garrison, of Baltimore, one of the editors of a
+publication entitled, "The Genius of Universal Emancipation," is now
+suffering fine and imprisonment for an alleged libel, at the suit of a
+slavite; and a law has been passed by the legislature of Louisiana,
+suppressing the Orleans journal called "The Liberal." This latter act is
+not only contrary to the constitution of the United States, but also in
+direct opposition to the constitution of Louisiana.[13]
+
+The free states in their own defence have been obliged to prohibit people
+of colour settling within their boundaries. Where then can the unfortunate
+African find a retreat? He must not stay in this country, and he cannot
+go to Africa; and although the British government are encouraging the
+settlement of negros in the Canadas, yet latterly, neither the Canadians
+nor the Americans like that project. The most probable finale to this
+drama will be, that the Christians must at their own expense ship them to
+Liberia (for Hayti is inundated), and there throw them on barren shores to
+die of starvation, or to be massacred by the savages!
+
+Miss Wright lately passed through New Orleans with thirty negros which she
+had manumitted, and was then going to establish them at Hayti. These
+slaves had been purchased at reduced prices, from persons friendly to
+their emancipation, and were kept by Miss Wright until their labour,
+allowing them a fair remuneration, amounted to the prime outlay.
+
+Were it not for the danger that might be apprehended from the congregation
+of large bodies of negros in particular states or districts, their
+liberation would be attended with little inconvenience _to the public_,
+for their labour might be as effectually secured, and made quite as
+profitable, under a system of well-regulated emancipation. We need only
+refer to England for a case in point:--after the conquest and total
+subjugation of the people of that country by the ancestors of the
+nobility, the gallant Normans, the feudal system was introduced, and
+remained in full vigour for some centuries. But, as the country became
+more populous, and the attendance of the knights and barons in parliament
+became more frequent and necessary, we find villanage gradually fall into
+disrepute. The last laws regulating this species of slavery were passed in
+the reign of Henry VII; and towards the end of Elizabeth's reign, although
+the statutes remained unrepealed, as they do still, yet there were no
+persons in the state to whom the laws applied. It cannot be denied that
+the labour of the poor English is as effectually secured under the present
+arrangements, as it could possibly be under the system of villanage.
+
+I look upon slaves as public securities; and I am of opinion, that a
+legislature's enacting laws for their emancipation, is as flagrant a piece
+of injustice as would be the cancelling of the public debt. Slave-holders
+are only share-holders; and philanthropists should never talk of
+liberating slaves, more than cancelling public securities, without being
+prepared to indemnify those persons who unfortunately have their capital
+invested in this species of property.
+
+As many varieties of countenance are to be found among blacks as among
+whites. There are Africans in this city who have really handsome features,
+and whose proportions are just, with strong and finely rounded limbs. On
+becoming more intimate with the general character of the Africans, I like
+it better: I find they steal, cheat, and hate their masters; and if they
+were to do otherwise I should think them unworthy of liberty--they justly
+consider whatever they take to be but a portion of their own. The policy
+is to keep them as much as possible in utter ignorance--that their
+indignation should therefore develope itself in the most degrading manner,
+is not surprising.
+
+There are two public schools established at New Orleans, which are
+supported out of the fund arising from five gaming-houses, they paying a
+tax of 25,000 dollars per annum. These schools are conducted on the
+Lancastrian system, each having a Principal and a Professor, and the
+studies are divided into daily sessions. The morning session is devoted to
+reading, spelling, arithmetic, and English grammar; commences at nine
+A.M., and closes at one P.M. The evening session commences at three, and
+ends at five o'clock; and is devoted to penmanship, geography, and the
+French language. This is the arrangement of the English primary school,
+which is kept in the Old Poydras House, Poydras-street, in the upper part
+of the city; and is called the Upper Primary School, to distinguish it
+from the French establishment, which is kept in the lower part of the
+city. The English school has an English principal, and a French professor;
+and the French school, a French principal and an English professor. Dr.
+Kinnicutt, the principal of the Upper Primary School, is a gentleman of
+considerable ability, and to his friendly politeness I am indebted for the
+above information.
+
+The ravages of the yellow fever in New Orleans are immense; but I am
+credibly informed that many deaths occur here from neglect after the fever
+has subsided, when the patient is in a totally debilitated condition,
+incapable of affording himself the slightest assistance. Orleans is
+generally crowded with strangers, who are most susceptible to the
+epidemic; and it is decidedly the interest of persons keeping hotels and
+boarding-houses that such guests should give up the ghost, for in that
+case their loose cash falls into the hands of the proprietor. I do not
+mean to insinuate that a knife is passed across the throat of the
+patient; but merely that it is the opinion of physicians, and some of the
+most respectable people of the city, that every _facility_ is afforded
+strangers to die, and that in many cases they actually die of gross
+neglect.
+
+The wealthy merchants live well, keep handsome establishments, and good
+wines. The Sardanapalian motto, "Laugh, sing, dance, and be merry," seems
+to be universally adopted in this "City of the Plague." The planters' and
+merchants' villas immediately in the vicinity are extremely tasteful, and
+are surrounded by large parterres filled with plantain, banana, palm,
+orange, and rose trees. On the whole, were it not for its unhealthiness,
+Orleans would be a most desirable residence, and the largest city in the
+United States, as it is most decidedly the best circumstanced in a
+commercial point of view.
+
+The question of the purchase of Texas from the Mexican government has been
+widely mooted throughout the country, and in the slave districts it has
+many violent partizans. The acquisition of this immense tract of fertile
+country would give an undue preponderance to the slave states, and this
+circumstance alone has prevented its purchase from being universally
+approved of; for the grasping policy of the American system seems to
+animate both congress and legislatures in all their acts. The Americans
+commenced their operations in true Yankee style. The first settlement made
+was by a person named Austin, under a large grant from the Mexican
+government. Then "pioneers," under the denomination of "explorers," began
+gradually to take possession of the country, and carry on commercial
+negotiations without the assent of the government. This was followed by
+the public prints taking up the question, and setting forth the immense
+value of the country, and the consequent advantages that would arise to
+the United States from its acquisition. The settlers excited movements,
+and caused discontent and dissatisfaction among the legitimate owners; and
+at their instigation, insurrections of the Indians took place, which
+greatly embarrassed the government. At this stage of the affair, Mr.
+Poinsett, the American minister, commenced his diplomatic manoeuvres in
+the city of Mexico--fomenting disaffection, encouraging parties, and
+otherwise interfering in the internal concerns of the country. He appears,
+however, to have carried his intrigues beyond the bounds of discretion, as
+they were discovered; and he consequently became so obnoxious to the
+government and people of Mexico, that Jackson found it necessary to recall
+him, and send a Colonel Butler in his stead, commissioned to offer
+5,000,000 dollars for the province of Texas.
+
+Mr. Poinsett's object in acting as he did, was that he might embarrass the
+government, and take advantage of some favourable crisis to drive a
+profitable bargain; or that, during some convulsion that would be likely
+to lead to a change, the expiring executive would be glad to grasp at his
+offer, and thereby a claim would be established on the country, which the
+United States would not readily relinquish. The policy of the British
+government suffering the Mexican republic to be bullied out of this
+province would be very questionable indeed, as the North Americans command
+at present quite enough of the Gulf of Mexico, and their overweening
+inclination to acquire extent of territory would render their proximity to
+the West Indian Islands rather dangerous; however, it would be much more
+advantageous to have the Mexicans as neighbours than the people of the
+United States.
+
+The Mexican secretary of state, Don Lucas Alaman, in a very able and
+elaborate report made to Congress, sets forth the ambitious designs of the
+American government, and the proceedings of its agents with regard to this
+province. He also recommends salutary measures for the purpose of
+retaining possession and preventing further encroachments; which the
+Congress seems to have taken into serious consideration, as very important
+resolutions have been adopted. The Congress has decreed, that hereafter
+the Texas is to be governed as a colony; and, except by special commission
+of the Governor, the immigration of persons _from the United States_, is
+strictly forbidden. So much at present for the efforts of the Americans to
+get possession of the Texas; and if the British government be alive to the
+interests of the nation, they never shall;--for, entertaining the hostile
+feelings that they do towards the British empire, their closer connexion
+with the West Indies would certainly not be desirable.
+
+FOOTNOTES:
+
+[9] A "big bug," is a great man, in the phraseology of the western
+country.
+
+[10] In the Indian tongue, _Meschacebe_--"old father of waters."
+
+[11] I have been informed by a gentleman who has resided in the English
+West Indian Islands, that he has known instances there of highly educated
+white women, young and unmarried, making black mothers suckle puppy
+lap-dogs for them.
+
+[12] Previous to my leaving America, a most extensive and well-organised
+conspiracy was discovered at Charleston, and several of the conspirators
+were executed. The whole black population of that town were to have risen
+on a certain day, and put their oppressors to death.
+
+[13]
+
+Extract from "The Liberal" of 19th March, 1830:--
+
+    "Constitution des Etats unis.
+
+    "Art. 1 er. des Amendments.
+
+    "Le Congres n'aura pas le droit de faire aucune loi pour abreger
+    la liberte de la parole ou de la presse, &c.
+
+    "Constitution de L'Etat de la Louisiane.
+
+    "Art. 6, v. 21.
+
+    "La presse sera libre a tous ceux qui entreprendront d'examiner les
+    procedures de la legislature ou aucune branche du gouvernement; et
+    aucune loi sera jamais faite pour abreger ses droits, &c.
+
+    "Loi faite par la legislature de l'Etat de la Louisiane.
+
+    "Acte pour punir les crime y mentiones et pour d'autre objets.
+
+    "Sect. 1ere. Il et decrete, &c. Que quiconque ecrira, imprimera,
+    publiera, ou repandra toute piece ayant une tendance a produire du
+    mecontentement parmi la population de couleur libre, ou de
+    l'insubordination parmi les esclaves de cet Etat, sera sur
+    conviction du fait, pardevant toute cour de juridiction competante
+    condamne a l'emprisonnement aux travaux forces pour la vie ou a la
+    peine de mort, a la discretion de la cour!!!!
+
+    "Sec. 2. Il est de plus decrete, que quiconque se servira
+    d'expressions dans un discours public prononce au barreau, au barre
+    des Judges, au Theatre, en chaire, ou dans tout lieu quelconque;
+    quiconque se servira d'expressions dans des conversations ou des
+    discours particulars, ou fera usage des signes ou fera des actions
+    ayant une tendance a produire du mecontentement parmi la
+    population de couleur libre ou a exciter a l'insubordination parmi
+    les esclaves de cet Etat; quiconque donnera sciemment la main a
+    apporter dans cet Etat aucun papier, brochure ou livre ayant la
+    meme tendance que dessus, sera, sur conviction, pardevant toute
+    cour de juridiction competante, condamne a l'emprisonnement aux
+    travaux forces pour un terme qui ne sera pas moindre de trois ans
+    et qui n'excedera pas vingt un ans, ou a la peine de mort a la
+    discretion de la cour!!!!
+
+    "Sec. 3. Il est de plus decrete, que seront considerees comme
+    illegales toute reunions de negres; mulatres ou autres personnes
+    de couleur libre dans le temples, les ecoles ou autres lieux pour
+    y apprendre a lire ou a ecrire: et les personnes qui se reuniront
+    ainsi; sur conviction du fait, pardevant toute cour de juridiction
+    competente, seront emprisonnees pour un terme qui ne sera pas
+    moindre d'un mois et qui n'excedera pas douze mois, a la
+    discretion!!!!
+
+    "Sec. 4. Il est de plus decrete, que toute personne dans cet etat
+    qui enseignera, permettra qu'on enseigne ou fera enseigner a lire
+    ou a ecrire a un esclave quelconque, sera, sur conviction du fait,
+    pardevant toute cour de juridiction competante, condamne a un
+    imprisonnement qui ne sera pas moindre d'un mois et n'excedera pas
+    douze mois!!!!"
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+    From the remarks of the same journal of the 23rd March, it would
+    appear that the third and fourth sections of this most enlightened
+    and Christian act have been rejected, as being "_too bad_."
+
+    "Nous avons lu la publication officielle de l'acte intitule: 'acte
+    pour empecher l'introduction des personnes de couleur libres dans
+    cet Etat, et pour d'autres objets.' Il est trop long pour que nous
+    puissons le publier, nous en donnons l'extrait suivant.
+
+    "1. Toute personne de couleur libre, qui sera rentree dans cet
+    etat depuis 1825, sera forcee d'en sortir.
+
+    "2. Aucune personne, de couleur libre, ne pourra a l'avenir
+    s'introduire dans cet etat sous aucun pretexte quelconque.
+
+    "3. Le blanc qui aura fait circuler des ecrits tendant a troubler
+    le repos public, ou censurant les actes de la legislature
+    concernant les esclaves ou les personnes de couleur libres, sera
+    puni rigoureusement.
+
+    "4. L'emancipation des esclaves est soumise a quantite de
+    formalites.
+
+    "Tous les noirs, grieffes et mulatres, au premier degre, libres,
+    sont obliges de se faire enregistrer au bureau du maire, a Nelle.
+    Orleans, ou chez les judges de paroisse dans les autres parties de
+    l'etat.
+
+    "Nous voyons avec joie, que la partie du bill tendant a empecher
+    l'instruction des personnes de couleur, a ete rejete."
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER VIII.
+
+
+Having spent a month in Orleans and the neighbouring plantations, I took
+my leave and departed for Louisville. The steam-boat in which I ascended
+the river was of the largest description, and had then on board between
+fifty and sixty cabin passengers, and nearly four hundred deck passengers.
+The former paid thirty dollars, and the latter I believe six, on this
+occasion. The deckers were provided only with an unfurnished berth. The
+steam-boats, on their passage up and down the rivers, stop at nearly all
+the towns of importance, both for the purpose of landing and receiving
+freight, which enabled me to visit most of the settlements along the
+banks.
+
+For several hundred miles from New Orleans, the trees, particularly those
+in the cypress swamps, are covered with tellandsea, or Spanish moss, which
+hangs down from the branches so thickly, as to give a most gloomy aspect
+to the forest. It is found to be a good substitute for horse hair, and is
+universally used by upholsterers for stuffing mattresses, cushions, &c.
+The process of preparing it is very simple: being taken from the trees, it
+is placed in water for a few days, until the outer pellicle has rotted; it
+is then dried, when a long fibre resembling horse hair is obtained.
+
+Natchez, in the state of Mississippi, is about 300 miles above Orleans,
+and is the largest and wealthiest town on the river, from that city up to
+St. Louis. It stands on bluffs, perhaps 300 feet above the water at
+ordinary periods. It contains nearly 4000 inhabitants, and is decidedly
+the prettiest town for its dimensions in the United States. Natchez,
+although upwards of 400 miles from the sea, is considered a port; and a
+grant of 1500 dollars was made by congress for the purpose of erecting a
+light-house; the building has been raised, and stands there, a monument of
+useless expenditure. There are a number of "groggeries," stores, and other
+habitations, at the base of the bluffs, for the accommodation of
+flat-boatmen, which form a distinct town, and the place is called, in
+contradistinction to the city above, Natchez-under-the-hill. Swarms of
+unfortunate females, of every shade of colour, may be seen here sporting
+with the river navigators, and this little spot presents one continued
+scene of gaming, swearing, and rioting, from morning till night.
+
+The ravages of the yellow fever in this town are always greater in
+proportion to the population than at New Orleans; and it is a remarkable
+fact, that frequently when the fever is raging with violence in the city
+on the hill, the inhabitants below are entirely free from it. In addition
+to the exhalations from the exposed part of the river's bed, there are
+others of a still more pestilential character, which arise from stagnant
+pools at the foot of the hill. The miasmata appear to ascend until they
+reach the level of the town above, where the atmosphere being less dense,
+and perhaps precisely of their own specific gravity, they float, and
+commingle with it.
+
+The country from Baton-rouge to Vicksburg, on the walnut hills, is almost
+entirely devoted to the cultivation of cotton, the soil and climate being
+found particularly congenial to the growth of that plant. The great trade
+of Natchez is in this article. The investment of capital in the
+cultivation of cotton is extremely profitable, and a plantation
+judiciously managed seldom fails of producing an income, in a few years,
+amounting to the original outlay. Each slave is estimated to produce from
+250 to 300 dollars per annum; but of course from this are to be deducted
+the _wear and tear_ of the slave, and the casualties incident to human
+life. On sugar plantations the profit is much more on each individual; but
+the risk is greater, and the deaths are generally calculated at one-third
+of the gang in ten years: this is the cause why slaves _on sugar
+plantations_ are so miserably fed and clad, for their being rendered less
+wretched would not make them less susceptible to the epidemic. Each acre
+of well-cultivated land produces from one and a half to two bales of
+cotton, and even the first year the produce will cover the expenses. A
+planter may commence with 10,000 or 12,000 dollars, and calculate on
+certain success; but with less capital, he must struggle hard to attain
+the desired object. A sugar plantation cannot be properly conducted with
+less than 25,000 or 30,000 dollars, and the first year produces no return.
+The cotton begins to ripen in the month of October--the buds open, and the
+flowers appear. A slave can gather from 100 to 150 lbs. a day. Rice and
+tobacco are also grown in the neighbourhood of the cotton lands, but of
+course the produce is inferior to that of the West Indies.
+
+Occasionally, along the banks of the Mississippi, you see here and there
+the solitary habitation of a wood-cutter. Immense piles of wood are placed
+on the edge of the bank, for the supply of steam-boats, and perhaps a
+small corn patch may be close to the house; this however is not commonly
+the case, as the inhabitants depend on flat-boats for provisions. The
+dwelling is the rudest kind of log-house, and the outside is sometimes
+decorated with the skins of deer, bears, and other animals, hung up to
+dry. Those people are commonly afflicted with fever and ague; and I have
+seen many, particularly females, who had immense swellings or
+protuberances on their stomachs, which they denominate "ague-cakes." The
+Mississippi wood-cutters scrape together "considerable of dollars," but
+they pay dearly for it in health, and are totally cut off from the
+frequent frolics, political discussions, and elections; which last,
+especially, are a great source of amusement to the Americans, and tend to
+keep up that spirit of patriotism and nationality for which they are so
+distinguished. The excitement produced by these elections prevents the
+people falling into that ale-drinking stupidity, which characterizes the
+low English.
+
+The "freshets" in the Mississippi are always accompanied with an immense
+quantity of "drift-wood," which is swept away from the banks of the
+Missouri and Ohio; and the navigation is never totally devoid of danger,
+from the quantity of trees which settle down on the bottom of the river.
+Those trees which stand perpendicularly in the river, are called
+"planters;" those which take hold by the roots, but lie obliquely with the
+current, yielding to its pressure, appearing and disappearing alternately,
+are termed "sawyers;" and those which lie immovably fixed, in the same
+position as the "sawyers," are denominated "snags." Many boats have been
+stove in by "snags" and "sawyers," and sunk with all the passengers. At
+present there is a snag steam-boat stationed on the Mississippi, which has
+almost entirely cleared it of these obstructions. This boat consists of
+two hulks, with solid beams of timber uniting the bows. It has a most
+powerful engine; and when the crew discover a snag, which always lies with
+the stream, and is known by the ripple on the water, they run down below
+it for some distance in order to gather head-way--the boat is then run at
+it full tilt, and seldom fails of breaking off the projecting branch close
+to the trunk.
+
+We arrived, a fine morning about nine o'clock, at Memphis in Tennessee,
+and lay-to to put out freight. We had just sat down, and were regaling
+ourselves with a substantial breakfast, when one of the boilers burst,
+with an explosion that resembled the report of a cannon. The change was
+sudden and terrific. Between fifty and sixty persons were killed and
+wounded. The scene was the most horrifying that can be imagined--the dead
+were shattered to pieces, covering the decks with blood; and the dying
+suffered the most excruciating tortures, being scalded from head to foot.
+Many died within the hour; whilst others lingered until evening, shrieking
+in the most piteous manner. The persons assembled on shore displayed the
+most disgusting want of sympathy; and most of the gentlemen passengers
+took care to secure their luggage before rendering any assistance to the
+unfortunates. A medical gentleman, who happened to be on board (a Doctor
+Otis, I think, from Carolina), was an exception. This gentleman--and
+gentleman he really was, in every respect--attended with the most
+unremitting care on all the wounded without distinction. A collection was
+made by the cabin passengers, for the surviving sufferers. The wretch who
+furnished oil on the occasion, hearing of the collection, had the
+conscience to make a charge of sixty dollars, when the quantity furnished
+could not possibly have amounted to a third of that sum.
+
+The boiler recoiled, cutting away part of the bow, and the explosion blew
+up the pilot's deck, which rendered the vessel totally unfit for service.
+I remained three days at Memphis, and visited the neighbouring farms and
+plantations. Several parties of Chickesaw Indians were here, trading their
+deer and other skins with the townspeople. This tribe has a reservation
+about fifty miles back, and pursues agriculture to a considerable extent.
+After the massacre and extermination of the Natchez Indians, by the
+Christians of Louisiana, the few survivors received an asylum from the
+Chickesaws; who, notwithstanding the heavy vengeance with which they were
+threatened, could never be induced to give up the few unhappy "children of
+the Sun" who confided in their honour and generosity: the fugitives
+amalgamated with their protectors, and the Natchez are extinct.
+
+Some of the Indians here assembled, indulged immoderately in the use of
+ardent spirits, with which they were copiously supplied by the white
+people. During these drinking fits, there is always one at least of the
+party who remains sober, in order to secure the knives, &c. Hence the
+Americans derive the cant phrase of "doing the sober Indian," which they
+apply to any one of a company who will not _drink fairly_. One of the
+Indians had a pony which he wished to sell, having occasion for some
+articles, and his skins not bringing him as much as he had anticipated. A
+townsman demanded the price. The Indian put up both his hands, intimating
+that he would take ten dollars. The pony was worth double the sum; but the
+spirit of barter would not permit the white man to purchase without
+reducing the price: he offered the Indian five dollars. The Indian was
+evidently indignant, but only gave a nod of dissent. After some
+hesitation, the buyer, finding that he could not reduce the price, said
+he would give the ten dollars. The Indian then held up his fingers, and
+counted fifteen. The buyer demurred at the advance; but the Indian was
+inexorable, and at length intimated that he would not trade at all. Such
+is the character of the Aborigines--they never calculate on _your_
+necessities, but only on their own; and when they are in want of money,
+demand the lowest possible price for the article they may wish to
+sell--but if they see you want to take further advantage of them, they
+invariably raise the price or refuse to traffic.
+
+Hunting in Tennessee is commonly practised on horseback, with dogs. When
+the party comes upon a deer-track, it separates, and hunters are posted,
+at intervals of about a furlong, on the path which the deer when started
+is calculated to take. Two or three persons then set forward with the
+dogs, always coming up against the wind, and start the deer, when the
+sentinels at the different points fire at him as he passes, until he is
+brought down. Another mode is to hunt by torch-light, without dogs. In
+this case, slaves carry torches before the party; the light of which so
+amazes the deer, that he stands gazing in the brushwood. The glare of his
+eyes is always sufficient to direct the attention of the rifleman, who
+levels his piece at the space between them, and seldom fails of hitting
+him fairly in the head.
+
+A boat at length arrived from New Orleans, bound for Nashville in
+Tennessee, and I secured a passage to Smithland, at the mouth of the
+Cumberland river, where I had a double opportunity of getting to
+Louisville, as boats from St. Louis, as well as those from Orleans, stop
+at that point. The day following my arrival a boat came up, and I
+proceeded to Louisville. On board, whilst I was amusing myself forward, I
+was accosted by a deck-passenger, whom I recollected to have seen at
+Harmony. He told me, amongst other things, that a Mr. O----, who resided
+there, had been elected captain, and added that he was "a considerable
+clever fellow," and the best captain they ever had. I inquired what
+peculiar qualification in their new officer led him to that conclusion.
+Expecting to hear of his superior knowledge in military tactics, I was
+astounded when he seriously informed me, in answer, that on a late
+occasion (I believe it was the anniversary of the birth of Washington),
+after parade, he ordered them into a "groggery," "not to take a _little_
+of something to drink, but by J---s to drink as much as they had a mind
+to." It must be observed, that this individual I had seen but once, in the
+streets of Harmony, and then he was in a state of inebriation. Another
+anecdote, of a similar character, was related to me by an Englishman
+relative to his own election to the post of brigadier-general. The
+candidate opposed to him had served in the late war, and in his address to
+the electors boasted not a little of the circumstance, and concluded by
+stating that he was "ready to lead them to a cannon's mouth when
+necessary." This my friend the General thought a poser; but, however, he
+determined on trying what virtue there was--not in stones, like the "old
+man" with the "young saucebox,"--but in a much more potent article,
+whisky; so, after having stated that although he had not served, yet he
+was as ready to serve against "the hired assassins of England"--this is
+the term by which the Americans designate our troops--as his opponent, he
+concluded by saying, "Boys, Mr. ---- has told you that he is ready to lead
+you to a cannon's mouth--now _I_ don't wish you any such misfortune as
+getting the contents of a cannon in your bowels, but if necessary,
+perhaps, I'd lead you as far as he would; however, men, the short and the
+long of it is, instead of leading you to the mouth of a cannon, I'll lead
+you this instant to the mouth of a barrel of whisky." This was enough--the
+electors shouted, roared, laughed, and drank--and elected my friend
+Brigadier-general. Brigadier-general! what must this man's relatives in
+England think, when they hear that he is a Brigadier-general in the
+American army? Yet he is a very respectable man (an auctioneer), and much
+superior to many west country Generals. The fact is, a dollar's-worth of
+whisky and a little Irish wit would go as far in electioneering as five
+pounds would go in England; and were it not for the protection afforded by
+the ballot, the Americans would be fully as corrupt, and would exercise
+the franchise as little in accordance with the public interest, as the
+English and Irish who enjoy the freedom of corporate towns. Some aspirants
+to office in the New England states, about the time of the last
+presidential election, tried the system of bribing, and obtained promises
+fully sufficient to insure their returns; but on counting the votes, it
+was found that more than one half the persons who were paid to vote _for_,
+must have voted _against_ the person who had bribed them. It is needless
+to say this experiment was not repeated. The Americans thought it bad
+enough to take the bribe, but justly concluded that it would be a double
+crime to adhere to the agreement. The bravo who takes a purse to commit an
+assassination, and does not do that for which he has been paid; is an
+angel, when compared to the villain who performs his contract.
+
+The usual time occupied in a voyage from Orleans to Louisville is from ten
+to twelve days, and boats have performed it in the surprisingly short
+space of eight days. The spur that commerce has received from the
+introduction of steam-boats on the western waters, can only be appreciated
+by comparing the former means of communication with the present. Previous
+to 1812, the navigation of the Upper Ohio was carried on by means of about
+150 small barges, averaging between thirty and forty tons burden, and the
+time consumed in ascending from the Falls to Pittsburg was a full month.
+On the Lower Ohio and the Mississippi there were about twenty barges,
+which averaged 100 tons burden, and more than three months was occupied in
+ascending from Orleans to Louisville with West India produce, the crew
+being obliged to poll or _cordelle_ the whole distance. Seldom more than
+one voyage to Orleans and back was made within the year. In 1817, a
+steam-boat arrived at Louisville from New Orleans in twenty-five days, and
+a public dinner and other rejoicings celebrated the event. From that
+period until 1827, the time consumed in this voyage gradually diminished,
+and in that year a boat from New Orleans entered the port of Louisville in
+eight days and two hours. There are at present on the waters of the Ohio
+and Mississippi, 323 boats, the aggregate burden of which is 56,000 tons,
+the greater proportion measuring from 250 to 500 tons.
+
+The people of this country cannot properly be compared with the
+inhabitants of England; their institutions are different, and their
+habits and manners must necessarily be dissimilar. Indeed, they are as
+unlike the English as any people can well be, and many of them with whom I
+conversed, denied flatly the descent. They contend that they are a
+compound of the best blood of Europe, and that the language of England
+only prevailed because, _originally_, the majority of settlers were
+English; but that since the revolution, the whole number of emigrants from
+the other countries of Europe greatly exceeded the proportion from England
+and Ireland. Their temperament, organisation, and independent spirit,
+appear to bear them out in this assertion.
+
+In England we have all the grades and conditions of society that are to be
+found in America, with the addition of two others, the highest and the
+lowest classes. There is no extensive class here equivalent to the English
+or Irish labourer; neither is there any class whose manners are stamped
+with that high polish and urbanity which characterises the aristocracy of
+England. The term _gentleman_ is used here in a very different sense from
+that in which it is applied in Europe--it means simply, well-behaved
+citizen. All classes of society claim it--from the purveyor of old bones,
+up to the planter; and I have myself heard a bar-keeper in a tavern and a
+stage driver, whilst quarrelling, seriously accuse each other of being "no
+gentleman." The only class who live on the labour of others, and without
+their own personal exertions, are the planters in the south. There are
+certainly many persons who derive very considerable revenues from houses;
+but they must be very few, if any, who have ample incomes from land, and
+this only in the immediate vicinity of the largest and oldest cities.
+
+English novels have very extensive circulation here, which certainly is of
+no service to the country, as it induces the wives and daughters of
+American gentlemen (alias, shopkeepers) to ape gentility. In Louisville,
+Cincinnati, and all the other towns of the west, the women have
+established circles of society. You will frequently be amused by seeing a
+lady, the wife of a dry-goods store-keeper, look most contemptuously at
+the mention of another's name, whose husband pursues precisely the same
+occupation, but on a less extensive scale, and observe, that "she only
+belongs to the third circle of society." This species of embryo
+aristocracy--or as Socrates would, call it, Plutocracy--is based on wealth
+alone, and is decidedly the most contemptible of any. There are,
+notwithstanding, very many well-bred, if not highly polished, women in the
+country; and on the whole, the manners of the women are much more
+agreeable than those of the men.
+
+Early in the summer I proceeded to Maysville, in Kentucky, which lies
+about 220 miles above the Falls. Here having to visit a gentlemen in the
+interior, I hired a chaise, for which I paid about two shillings British
+per mile.
+
+A great deal of excitement was just then produced among the inhabitants of
+Maysville by the president's having put his veto on the bill, passed by
+congress, granting loans to the "Maysville and Lexington road," and the
+"Louisville canal" companies. The Kentuckians were in high dudgeon, and
+denounced Jackson as an enemy to internal improvement, and to the western
+states. It would appear that the friends of Adams and Clay, had determined
+to place Jackson in a dilemma which would involve his character, either as
+a friend to internal improvement or an enemy to lavish expenditure.
+Accordingly, they passed an unusual number of bills, appropriating money
+to the clearing of creeks, building of bridges, and making of canals and
+turnpike roads; the amount of which, instead of leaving a surplus of ten
+millions to the liquidation of the national debt, would not only have
+totally exhausted the treasury, but have actually exceeded by 20,000,000
+dollars the revenue of the current year. This manoeuvre was timely
+discovered by the administration, and the president consequently refused
+to put his signature to those bills, amongst a number of others. He
+refused on two grounds. The first was, that although it had been the
+practice of congress to grant sums of money for the purpose of making
+roads and perfecting other works, which only benefited one or two states;
+yet that such practice was not sanctioned by the constitution--the federal
+legislature having no power to act but with reference to the general
+interests of the states. The second was, that the road in question was
+local in the most limited sense, commencing at the Ohio river, and running
+back sixty miles to an interior town, and consequently, the grant in
+question came within neither the constitutional powers nor practice of
+congress.
+
+The president recommends that the surplus revenue, after the debt shall
+have been paid off, should be portioned out to the different states, in
+proportion to their ratio of representation; which appears to be
+judicious, as the question of congressional power to appropriate money to
+road-making, &c., although of a general character, involves also the right
+of jurisdiction; which congress clearly has not, except where the defence
+of the country, or other paramount interests, are concerned.
+
+The national debt will be totally extinguished in four years, when this
+country will present a curious spectacle for the serious consideration of
+European nations. During the space of fifty-six years, two successful wars
+have been carried on--one for the establishment, and the other for the
+maintenance of national independence, and a large amount of public works
+and improvements has been effected; yet, after the expiration of four
+years from this time, there will not only be no public debt, but the
+revenue arising from protecting tariff duties alone will amount to more
+than the expenditure by upwards of 10,000,000 dollars.
+
+A brief abstract from the treasury report on the finances of the United
+States, up to the 1st January, 1831, may not be uninteresting.
+
+                                             Dollars. Cts.
+Balance in the treasury, 1st January,
+1828                                         6,668,286 10
+
+Receipts of the year 1828                   24,789,463 61
+                                            _____________
+Total                                       31,457,749 71
+Expenditure for the year 1828               25,485,313 90
+                                            _____________
+Leaving a balance in the treasury, 1st
+January, 1829, of                            5,972,435 81
+
+Receipts from all sources during the
+year 1829                                   24,827,627 38
+
+Expenditures for the same year, including
+3,686,542 dol. 93 ct. on account of
+the public debt, and 9,033 dol. 38 ct.
+for awards under the first article of the
+treaty of Ghent                             25,044,358 40
+
+Balance in the treasury on 1st January,
+1830                                         5,755,704 79
+
+The receipts from all sources during the
+year 1830 were                              24,844,116 51
+
+                    viz.
+
+Customs                                     21,922,391 39
+
+Lands                                        2,329,356 14
+
+Dividends on bank stock                        490,000 00
+
+Incidental receipts                            102,368 98
+                                            _____________
+
+The expenditures for the same year were     24,585,281 55
+
+                    viz.
+
+Civil list, foreign intercourse,
+and miscellaneous                            3,237,416 04
+
+Military service, including
+fortifications, ordnance,
+Indian affairs,
+pensions, arming the
+militia, and internal
+improvements                                 6,752,688 66
+
+Naval service, including
+sums appropriated
+to the gradual
+improvement of the
+navy[14]                                     3,239,428 63
+
+Public debt                                 11,355,748 22
+                                            _____________
+
+Leaving a balance in the treasury
+on the 1st of January, 1831, of              6,014,539 75
+
+
+
+
+_Public Debt_.
+
+                                             Dollars. Cts.
+The payments made on account of the
+Public Debt, during the first three
+quarters of the year 1831, amounted to      9,883,479  46
+
+It was estimated that the payments to
+be made in the fourth quarter of the
+same year, would amount to                  6,205,810  21
+                                           ______________
+Making the whole amount of disbursments
+on account of the Debt in 1831             16,089,289  67
+
+
+
+THE  PUBLIC  DEBT,  ON  THE  SECOND  OF JANUARY, 1832, WILL
+BE AS FOLLOWS, VIZ.;--
+
+
+1. _Funded Debt_.
+                                             Dollars. Cts.
+Three per cents, per act
+of the 4th of August,
+1790, redeemable at the
+pleasure of government                      13,296,626 21
+
+Five per cents, per act of
+the 3rd of March, 1821,
+redeemable after the 1st
+January, 1823                                4,735,296 30
+
+Five per cents, (exchanged),
+per act of 20th of
+April, 1823; one third
+redeemable annually
+after 31st of December,
+1830, 1831 and 1832                            56,704  77
+
+Four and half per cents.
+per act of the 24th of
+May, 1824, redeemable
+after 1st of January,
+1832                                        1,739,524  01
+
+Four and half per cents.
+(exchanged), per act of
+the 26th of May, 1824;
+one half redeemable
+after the 31st day of
+December, 1832                              4,454,727  95
+                                           ______________
+                                           24,282,879  24
+
+
+2. _Unfunded Debt_.
+
+Registered Debt, being
+claims registered prior
+to the year 1793, for
+services and supplies
+during the revolutionary war                   27,919  85
+
+Treasury notes                                  7,116  00
+
+Mississippi stock                               4,320  09
+                                           ______________
+                                               39,355  94
+
+Making the whole amount of the Public
+Debt of the United States                  24,322,235  18
+                                           ______________
+
+Which is, allowing 480 cents to the
+sovereign, in sterling money            L5,067,132 6_s_. 7_d_.
+
+General Jackson has proposed another source of national revenue, in the
+establishment of a bank; the profits of which, instead of going into the
+pockets of stock-holders as at present, should be placed to the credit of
+the nation. If an establishment of this nature could be formed, without
+involving higher interests than the mere pecuniary concerns of the
+country, no doubt it would be most desirable. But how a _government_ bank
+could be so formed as that it should not throw immense and dangerous
+influence into the hands of the executive, appears difficult to determine.
+If it be at all connected with the government, the executive must exercise
+an extensive authority over its affairs; and in that case, the mercantile
+portion of the community would lie completely under the surveillance of
+the president, who might at pleasure exercise this immense patronage to
+forward private political designs. No doubt there have been abuses to a
+considerable extent practised by the present bank of the United States in
+the exercise of its functions; but how those abuses are likely to be
+remedied by Jackson's plan, does not appear. For, let the directors be
+appointed by government, or elected by congress, they must still exercise
+discretional power; and they are quite as likely to exercise it
+unwarrantably as those who have a direct interest in the prosperity of the
+concern. I totally disapprove of the attempt to correct the abuses of one
+monopoly by the establishment of another in its stead, of a still more
+dangerous character; and I am inclined to think that if two banks were
+chartered instead of one, each having ample capital to insure public
+confidence, competition alone would furnish a sufficient motive to induce
+them to act with justice and liberality towards the public.
+
+In 1766, Kentucky was first explored, by John Finlay, an Indian trader,
+Colonel Daniel Boon, and others. They again visited it in 1769, when the
+whole party, excepting Boon, were slain by the Indians--he escaped, and
+reached North Carolina, where he then resided. Accompanied by about forty
+expert hunters, comprised in five families, in the year 1775, he set
+forward to make a settlement in the country. They erected a fort on the
+banks of the Kentucky river, and being joined by several other
+adventurers, they finally succeeded. The Kentuckians tell of many a bloody
+battle fought by these pioneers, and boast that their country has been
+gained, every inch, by conquest.
+
+The climate of Kentucky is favourable to the growth of hemp, flax,
+tobacco, and all kinds of grain. The greater portion of the soil is rich
+loam, black, or mixed with reddish earth, generally to the depth of five
+or six feet, on a limestone bottom. The produce of corn is about sixty
+bushels on an average per acre, and of wheat about thirty-five; cotton is
+partially cultivated. The scenery is varied, and the country well
+watered.
+
+The Kentuckians all carry large pocket knives, which they never fail to
+use in a scuffle; and you may see a gentleman seated at the tavern door,
+balanced on two legs of a chair, picking his teeth with a knife, the blade
+of which is full six inches long, or cutting the benches, posts, or any
+thing else that may lie within his reach. Notwithstanding this, the
+Kentuckians are by no means more quarrelsome than any other people of the
+western states; and they are vastly less so than the people of Ireland.
+But when they do commence hostilities, they fight with great bitterness,
+as do most Americans, biting, gouging, and cutting unrelentingly.
+
+I never went into a court-house in the west _in summer_, without observing
+that the judges and lawyers had their feet invariably placed upon the
+desks before them, and raised much higher than their heads. This, however,
+is only in the western country; for in the courts at Orleans, New York,
+and Philadelphia, the greatest order and regularity is observed. I had
+been told that the judges often slept upon the bench; but I must confess,
+that although I have entered court-houses at all seasons during the space
+of fifteen months, I never saw an instance of it. I have frequently
+remonstrated with the Americans, on the total absence of forms and
+ceremonies in their courts of justice, and was commonly answered by "Yes,
+that may be quite necessary in England, in order to overawe a parcel of
+ignorant creatures, who have no share in making the laws; but with us, a
+man's a man, whether he have a silk gown on him or not; and I guess he can
+decide quite as well without a big wig as with one. You see, we have done
+with wiggery of all kinds; and if one of our judges were to wear such an
+appendage, he'd be taken for a merry-andrew, and the court would become a
+kind of show-box--instead of such arrangements producing with us
+solemnity, they would produce nothing but laughter, and the greatest
+possible irregularity."
+
+I was present at an election in the interior of the state. The office was
+that of representative in the state legislature, and the candidates were a
+hatter and a saddler; the former was also a militia major, and a Methodist
+preacher, of the Percival and Gordon school, who eschewed the devil and
+all the backsliding abominations of the flesh, as in duty bound. Sundry
+"stump orations" were delivered on the occasion, for the enlightenment of
+the electors; and towards the close of the proceedings, by way of an
+appropriate finale, the aforesaid triune-citizen and another gentleman,
+had a gouging scrape on the hustings. The major in this contest proved
+himself to be a true Kentuckian; that is, half a horse, and half an
+alligator; which contributed not a little to ensure his return. After the
+election, I was conversing with one of the most violent opponents of the
+successful candidate, and remarked to him, that I supposed he would rally
+his forces at the next election to put out the major: he replied, "I can't
+tell that!" I said, "why? will you not oppose him?" "Oh!" he says, "for
+that matter, he may do his duty pretty well." "And do you mean to say,"
+continued I, "that if he should do so, you will give him no opposition?"
+He looked at me, as if he did not clearly comprehend, and said, "Why, I
+guess not."
+
+The boatmen of the Ohio and Mississippi are the most riotous and lawless
+set of people in America, and the least inclined to submit to the
+constituted authorities. At Cincinnati I saw one of those persons
+arrested, on the wharf, for debt. He seemed little inclined to submit; as,
+could he contrive to escape to the opposite shore, he was safe. He called
+upon his companions in the flat-boat, who came instantly to his
+assistance, and were apparently ready to rescue him from the clutches of
+this trans-Atlantic bum-bailiff. The constable instantly pulled out--not a
+pistol, but a small piece of paper, and said, "I take him in the name of
+the States." The messmates of this unfortunate navigator looked at him for
+some time, and then one of them said drily, "I guess you must go with the
+constable." Subsequently, at New York, one evening returning to my hotel,
+I heard a row in a tavern, and wishing to see the process of capturing
+refractory citizens, I entered with some other persons. The constable was
+there unsupported by any of his brethren, and it seemed to me to be
+morally impossible that, without assistance, he could take half a dozen
+fellows, who were with difficulty restrained from whipping each other.
+However, his hand seemed to be as potent as the famous magic wand of
+Armida, for on placing it on the shoulders of the combatants, they fell
+into the ranks, and marched off with him as quietly as if they had been
+sheep. The rationale of the matter is this: those men had all exercised
+the franchise, if not in the election of these very constables, of
+others, and they therefore not only considered it to be their duty to
+support the constable's authority, but actually felt a strong inclination
+to do so. Because they _knew_ that the authority he exercised was only
+delegated to him by themselves, and that, in resisting him, they would
+resist their own sovereignty. Even in large towns in the western country,
+the constable has no men under his command, but always finds most powerful
+allies in the citizens themselves, whenever a lawless scoundrel, or a
+culprit is to be captured.
+
+At Flemingsburg I saw an Albino, a female about fourteen years old. Her
+parents were clear negros, of the Congo or Guinea race, and in every thing
+but colour she perfectly resembled them. Her form, face, and hair,
+possessed the true negro characteristics--curved shins, projecting jaw,
+retreating forehead, and woolly head. The skin was rather whiter than that
+of the generality of Europeans, but was deficient in glossiness, and
+although perfectly smooth, had a dry appearance. The wool on the head was
+of a light flaxen colour, and the iris of the eye was of a reddish-blue
+tinge. Her eyes were so weak as to bear with difficulty the glare of day.
+Most Albinos are dim sighted until twilight, when they appear to have as
+perfect vision as persons with the strongest sight, and in many cases,
+even more acute. This individual had evidently weak sight, as the eyelids
+were generally half closed, and she always held her head down during day
+light.
+
+Near the banks of the Ohio, full three hundred miles from the sea, I found
+conglomerations of marine shells, mixed with siliceous earth; and in
+nearly all the runs throughout Kentucky, limestone pebbles are found,
+bearing the perfect impressions of the interior of shells. The most
+abundant proofs are every where exhibited, that at one period the vast
+savannahs and lofty mountains of the New world were submerged; and perhaps
+the present bed of the ocean was once covered with verdure, and the seat
+of the sorrows and joys of myriads of human beings, who erected cities,
+and built pyramids, and monuments, which Time has long since swept away,
+and wrapt in his eternal mantle of oblivion. That a constant, but almost
+imperceptible change is hourly taking place in the earth's surface,
+appears to be established; and independent of the extraordinary
+_bouleversements_, which have at intervals convulsed our globe, this
+gradual revolution has produced, and will produce again, a total
+alteration in the face of nature.
+
+FOOTNOTES:
+
+[14] Amongst other plans to this effect, there is one proposed, by which
+midshipmen on half-pay will be obliged to make at least two voyages
+annually, in merchant ships, as mates, and all others must have done so,
+in order to entitle them to be reinstated in their former rank. Another
+is, that there shall be small vessels, rigged and fitted out in war
+style, appropriated to the purpose of teaching pupils, practically, the
+science of navigation, and the discipline necessary to be observed on
+board vessels of war. The Americans may not eat their fish with silver
+forks, nor lave their fingers in the most approved style; yet they are by
+no means so contemptible a people as some of our small gentry affect to
+think. They may too, occasionally, be put down in political argument, by
+the dogmatical method of the quarter-deck; but I must confess that _I_
+never was so fortunate as to come in contact with any who reasoned so
+badly as the persons Captain Bazil Hall introduces in his book.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER IX.
+
+
+The wailings of the Cherokee, the Choctaw, and the Creek, may have been
+wafted across the waters of the great salt lake, and the Pale-face in his
+own land may have heard their lamentations;--but the distant voice is
+scattered by the passing winds, and is heard like the whisper of a summer
+breeze as it steals along the prairies of the west, or the cry of the
+wish-ton-wish as it faintly reaches the ear of the navigator, when, in the
+stilly night, he floats down "the old father of waters."
+
+The present posture of Indian affairs, and the peculiar situation of the
+Indian nations east of the Mississippi, have caused that unfortunate
+people to be the topic of much political controversy and conversation; a
+succinct account of the political condition of these tribes, and of the
+policy which has been pursued, and which is being pursued towards them, by
+the executive government, may not therefore be uninteresting.
+
+When Georgia, by becoming a member of the Union, ceded part of her
+sovereignty to the general executive, that government acknowledged her
+claimed limits, and guaranteed to her the protection of the Union against
+foreign and domestic violence. Subsequently, in the year of 1802, in
+consideration of a certain portion of lands ceded, the United States
+became bound to purchase for Georgia, any claim which the Cherokee nation
+might have on lands within her boundaries, whenever such purchase could be
+made on reasonable terms. On these positions are based the Georgian
+claims, which the United States government has hitherto pleaded inability
+to satisfy, inasmuch as all efforts to purchase the Indian lands have
+proved fruitless.
+
+After the lapse of twenty-seven years, Georgia, finding herself precisely
+in the same condition in which she then stood, has determined on forcibly
+taking possession of the Cherokee lands, and extending her sovereignty
+over the Cherokee people. But as this cannot be effected without doing
+manifest violence to the Indian rights, she brings forward arguments to
+show, that _she_ never acknowledged the independence of the Cherokee
+nation; that that nation, from the time of the first settlement made by
+Europeans in America, stood in the position of a conquered people; that
+the sovereignty consequently dwelt in the hands of Great Britain; and
+that, on the Declaration of independence, Georgia, by becoming a free
+state, became invested with all the powers of sovereignty claimed or
+exercised by Great Britain over the Georgian territory: and further, that
+in November, 1785, when the first and only treaty was concluded with the
+Cherokees by the United States, during the articles of confederation, both
+she and North Carolina entered their solemn protests against this alleged
+violation of their legislative rights. The executive government pretends
+not to argue the case with Georgia, and is left no alternative but either
+to annul its _conditional_ treaty with that state, or to cancel _thirteen
+distinct treaties_ entered into with the Indians, despoil them of their
+lands, and rob them of their independence. Jackson's message says, "It is
+too late to inquire whether it was just in the United States to include
+them and their territory within bounds of new states, whose limits they
+could control. That step cannot be retracted. A state cannot be
+dismembered by Congress, or restrained in the exercise of her
+constitutional powers." Here the executive government acknowledges that it
+made promises to Georgia, which it has been unable to perform--that it
+guaranteed to that state the possession of lands over which it had no
+legitimate control, on the mere assumption of being able to make their
+purchase.
+
+The Cherokees in their petition and memorials to Congress show, that Great
+Britain never exercised any sovereignty over them;--that in peace and in
+war she always treated them as a free people, and never assumed to herself
+the right of interfering with their internal government:--that in every
+treaty made with them by the United States, their sovereignty and total
+independence are clearly acknowledged, and that they have ever been
+considered as a distinct nation, exercising all the privileges and
+immunities enjoyed by any independent people. They say, "In addition to
+that first of all rights, the right of inheritance and peaceable
+possession, we have the faith and pledge of the United States, over and
+over again, in treaties made at various times. By these treaties our
+rights as a separate people are distinctly acknowledged, and guarantees
+given that they shall be secured and protected. So we have also
+understood the treaties. The conduct of the government towards us, from
+its organization until very lately--the talks given to our beloved men by
+the Presidents of the United States--and the speeches of the agents and
+commissioners--all concur to show that we are not mistaken in our
+interpretation. Some of our beloved men who signed the treaties are still
+living, and their testimony tends to the same conclusion." * * * * "In
+what light shall we view the conduct of the United States and Georgia in
+their intercourse with us, in urging us to enter into treaties and cede
+lands? If we were but tenants at will, why was it necessary that our
+consent must first be obtained before these governments could take lawful
+possession of our lands? The answer is obvious. These governments
+perfectly understand our rights--our right to the country, and our right
+to self-government. Our understanding of the treaties is further supported
+by the intercourse law of the United States, which prohibits all
+encroachment on our territory."
+
+The arguments used by the Cherokees are unanswerable; but in what will
+that avail them, when injustice is intended by a superior power, which,
+regardless of national faith, has determined on taking possession of their
+lands? The case stands thus: the executive government enters into an
+agreement with Georgia, and engages to deliver over to the state the
+Indian possessions within her claimed limits--without the Indians _having
+any knowledge of, or participation in the transaction._ Now what, may I
+ask, have the Indians to do with this? Ought they to be made answerable
+for the gross misconduct of the two governments, and to be despoiled,
+contrary to every principle of justice, and in defiance of the most plain
+and fundamental law of property? It puts one in mind of the judgment of
+the renowned "Walter the Doubter," who decided between two citizens, that,
+as their account books appeared to be of equal _weight_, therefore their
+accounts were balanced, and that _the constable_ should pay the costs. The
+United States government has made several offers to the Cherokees for
+their lands; which they have as constantly refused, and said, "that they
+were very well contented where they were--that they did not wish to leave
+the bones of their ancestors, and go beyond the Mississippi; but that, if
+the country be so beautiful as their white brother represents it, they
+would recommend their white brother to go there himself."
+
+Georgia presses upon the executive; which, in this dilemma, comes forward
+with affected sympathy--deplores the unfortunate situation in which it is
+placed, but of course concludes that faith must be kept with Georgia, and
+that the Cherokee must either go, or submit to laws that make it far
+better for him to go than stay. It is true Jackson says in his message,
+"This emigration should be voluntary; for it would be cruel as unjust to
+compel the Aborigines to abandon the graves of their fathers, and seek a
+home in a distant land." But General Jackson well knows that the laws of
+Georgia leave the Indian no choice--as no community of men, civilized or
+savage, could possibly exist under such laws. The benefit and protection
+of the laws, to which the Indian is made subject, are entirely withheld
+from him--he can be no party to a suit--he may be robbed and murdered with
+impunity--his property may be taken, and he may be driven from his
+dwelling--in fine, he is left liable to every species of insult, outrage,
+cruelty, and dishonesty, without the most distant hope of obtaining
+redress; for in Georgia _an Indian cannot be a witness to prove facts
+against a white man._ Yet General Jackson says, "this emigration should be
+_voluntary_;" and in the very same paragraph, with a single sweep of the
+pen, he annihilates all the treaties that have been made with that
+people--tramples under foot the laws of nations, and deprives the Indian
+of his hunting-grounds, one of his sources of subsistence. He says,--"But
+it seems to me visionary to suppose that, in this state of things, claims
+can be allowed on tracts of country on which they have neither dwelt nor
+made improvements, merely because they have seen them from the mountain,
+or passed them in the chase." It certainly may be unphilosophical to
+permit any man to possess more ground than he can till with his own hands;
+yet surely arguments that we do not admit as regards ourselves, we can
+with no sense of propriety use towards others, particularly when our own
+acts are directly in the very teeth of this principle. There is more land
+at present within the limits and in the possession of the United States
+than would be sufficient to support thirty times the present
+population--yet to this must be added the hunting-grounds of the Indians,
+merely because "it is _visionary to suppose_ they have any claim on what
+they do not _actually occupy!"_
+
+I have now before me the particulars of thirteen treaties[15] made by the
+United States with the Cherokee nation, from the year 1785 down to 1819
+inclusive; in all of which the rights of the Indians are clearly
+acknowledged, either directly, or by implication; and by the seventh
+article of the treaty of Holston, executed in 1791, being the first
+concluded with that people by the United States, under their present
+constitution, all the lands not thereby ceded are solemnly guaranteed to
+the Cherokee nation. The subsequent treaties are made with reference to,
+and in confirmation of this, and continually reiterate the guarantees
+therein tendered.
+
+To talk of justice, and honour, would be idle and visionary, for these
+seem to have been thrown overboard at the very commencement of the
+contest; but I would ask the American _people_, is their conduct towards
+the Indians politic?--is it politic in America, in the face of civilized
+nations, to violate treaties? is it politic in her, to hold herself up to
+the world as faithless and unjust--as a nation, which, in defiance of all
+moral obligation, will break her most sacred contracts, whenever it
+becomes no longer her interest to keep them, and she finds herself in a
+condition to do so with impunity? is she not furnishing foreign statesmen
+with a ready and powerful argument in defence of their violating treaties
+with her? can they not with justice say--America has manifested in her
+proceedings towards the Cherokee nation, that she is faithless--that she
+keeps no treaties longer than it may be her _interest_ to do so--and are
+_we_ to make ourselves the dupes of such a power, and wait until she finds
+herself in a condition to deceive us? I could produce many arguments to
+illustrate the impolicy of this conduct; but as I intend confining myself
+to a mere sketch, I shall dwell but as short a time as may be consistent
+on the several facts connected with the case.
+
+That the Aborigines have been cruelly treated, cannot be doubted. The very
+words of the Message admit this; and the tone of feeling and conciliation
+which follows that admission, coupled as it is with the intended injustice
+expressed in other paragraphs, can be viewed in no other light than as a
+piece of political mockery. The Message says, "their present condition,
+contrasted with what they once were, makes a most powerful appeal to our
+sympathies. Our ancestors found them the uncontrolled possessors of these
+vast regions. By persuasion and force, they have been made to retire from
+river to river, and from mountain to mountain, until some of the tribes
+have become extinct, and others have left but remnants, to preserve for a
+while their once terrible names." Now the plan laid down by the president,
+in order to prevent, if possible, the total decay of the Indian people,
+is, to send them beyond the Mississippi, and _guarantee_ to them the
+possession of ample territory west of that river. How far this is likely
+to answer the purpose _expressed_, let us now examine.
+
+The Cherokees, by their intercourse with and proximity to the white
+people, have become half civilized; and how is it likely that _their_
+condition will be improved by driving them into the forests and barren
+prairies? That territory is at present the haunt of the Pawnees, the
+Osages, and other warlike nations, who live almost entirely by the chase,
+and are constantly waging war even with each other. As soon as the
+Cherokees, and other half-civilized Indians, appear, they will be regarded
+as common intruders, and be subject to the united attacks of these people.
+There are even old feuds existing among themselves, which, it is but too
+probable, may be renewed. Trappers and hunters, in large parties, yearly
+make incursions into the country beyond the boundaries of the United
+States, and in defiance of the Indians kill the beaver and the
+buffalo--the latter merely for the _tongue and skin_, leaving the carcase
+to rot upon the ground.[16] Thus is this unfortunate race robbed of their
+means of subsistence. Moreover, what guarantee can the Indians have, that
+the United States will keep faith for the future, when it is admitted that
+they have not done so in times past? How can they be sure that they may
+not further be driven from river to river, and from mountain to mountain,
+until they reach the shores of the Pacific; and who can tell but that then
+it may be found expedient to drive them into the ocean?
+
+The policy of the United States government is evidently to get the Indians
+to exterminate each other. Its whole proceedings from the time this
+question was first agitated to the present, but too clearly indicate this
+intention; and if we wanted proof, that the executive government of the
+United States _would act_ on so barbarous and inhuman a policy, we need
+only refer to the allocation of the Cherokees, who exchanged lands in
+Tennessee for lands west of the Mississippi, pursuant to the treaty of
+1819. It was well known that a deadly enmity existed between the Osages
+and Cherokees, and that any proximity of the two people, would inevitably
+lead to fatal results; yet, with this knowledge, the executive government
+placed those Cherokees in the country lying between the Arkansaw and Red
+rivers, _immediately joining the territory of the Osages._ It is
+unnecessary to state that the result was _as anticipated_--they daily
+committed outrages upon the persons and properties of each other, and the
+death of many warriors, on both sides, ensued.
+
+The sympathy expressed in that part of the Message relating to the
+Indians, if expressed with sincerity, would do much honour to the feelings
+that dictated it; but when we come to examine the facts, and investigate
+the implied allegations, we shall find that they are most gratuitous; and,
+consequently, that the regret of the president at the probable fate of the
+Indian, should he remain east of the Mississippi, is grossly hypocritical.
+He says, "surrounded by the whites, with their arts of civilization,
+which, by destroying the resources of the savage, doom him to weakness and
+decay:[17] the fate of the Mohegan, the Narragansett, and the Delaware, is
+fast overtaking the Choctaw, the Cherokee, and the Creek. That this fate
+surely awaits them, if they remain within the limits of the States, does
+not admit of a doubt. Humanity and national honour demand that every
+effort should be made to avert so great a calamity." From what facts the
+president has drawn these conclusions does not appear. Neither the
+statements of the Cherokees, nor of the Indian agents, nor the report of
+the secretary of war, furnish any such information; on the contrary, with
+the exception of one or two agents _at Washington_, all give the most
+flattering accounts of advancement in civilization. The Rev. Samuel A.
+Worcester, in his letter to the Rev. E.S. Ely, editor of the
+"Philadelphian," completely refutes all the unfavourable statements that
+have been got up to cover the base conduct of Jackson and the slavites.
+This gentleman has resided for the last four years among the Cherokees,
+and has surely had abundant means of observing their condition.
+
+The letter of David Brown (a Cherokee), addressed, September 2, 1825, to
+the editor of "The Family Visitor," at Richmond, Virginia, states, that
+"the Cherokee plains are covered with herds of cattle--sheep, goats, and
+swine, cover the valleys and hills--the plains and valleys are rich, and
+produce Indian corn, cotton, tobacco, wheat, oats, indigo, sweet and Irish
+potatoes, &c. The natives carry on a considerable trade with the adjoining
+states, and some of them export cotton in boats down the Tennessee to the
+Mississippi, and down that river to New Orleans. Orchards are
+common--cheese, butter, &c. plenty--houses of entertainment are kept by
+natives. Cotton and woollen cloths are manufactured in the nation, and
+almost every family grows cotton for its own consumption. Agricultural
+pursuits engage the chief attention of the nation--different branches of
+mechanics are pursued. Schools are increasing every year, and education is
+encouraged and rewarded." To quote David Brown verbatim, on the
+population,--"In the year 1819, an estimate was made of the Cherokees.
+Those on the west were estimated at 5,000, and those on the east of the
+Mississippi, at 10,000 souls. The census of this division of the Cherokees
+has again been taken within the current year (1825), and the returns are
+thus made: native citizens, 13,563; white men married in the nation, 147;
+white women ditto, 73; African slaves, 1177. If this summary of the
+Cherokee population, from the census, is correct, to say nothing of those
+of foreign extract, we find that in six years the increase has been 3,563
+souls. National pride, patriotism, and a spirit of independence, mark the
+Cherokee character." He further states, "the system of government is
+founded on republican principles, and secures the respect of the people."
+An alphabet has been invented by an Indian, named George Guess, the
+Cherokee Cadmus, and a printing press has been established at New Echota,
+the seat of government, where there is published weekly a paper entitled,
+"The Cherokee Phoenix,"--one half being in the English language, and the
+other in that of the Cherokee.
+
+The report of the secretary of war, upon the present condition of the
+Indians, states of the Chickesaws and Choctaws, all that has been above
+said of the Cherokees. But of the last-mentioned people, the secretary's
+accounts appear to be studiously defective. Yet the fact is notorious,
+that both the Chickesaws and Choctaws are far behind the Cherokees in
+civilization.
+
+With these facts before our eyes, what are we to think of the grief of the
+president, at the decay and increasing weakness of the Cherokees? Can it
+be regarded in any way but as a piece of shameless hypocrisy, too glaring
+in its character to escape the notice even of the most inobservant
+individual. It has been said that the question involves many
+difficulties--to me there appears none. The United States, in the year
+1791, guarantee to the Indians the possession of all their lands not then
+ceded--and confirm this by numerous subsequent treaties. In 1802, they
+promise to Georgia, the possession of the Cherokee lands "_whenever such
+purchase could be made on reasonable terms_" This is the simple state of
+the case; and if the executive were inclined to act uprightly, the line of
+conduct to be pursued could be determined on without much difficulty.
+Georgia has no right to press upon the executive the fulfilment of
+engagements which were made conditionally, and consequently with an
+implied reservation; and the United States should not violate _many
+positive treaties_, in order to fulfil _a conditional one_.[18]
+
+I shall now advert to some of the charges touching the character of the
+Indians. It is said, that they are debauched and insincere. This charge
+has been particularly made against the Creeks, and I believe is not
+altogether unfounded. Yet, if this be now the character of the once
+warlike and noble Creek, let the white man ask himself who has made him
+so? Who makes the "firewater," and who supplies the untutored savage with
+the means of intoxication? The white-man, when he wishes to trade
+profitably with the Indian, fills the cup, and holds it forth--he says,
+'drink, my brother, it is good'--the red-man drinks, and the wily white
+points at his condition, says he is uncivilized, and should go forth from
+the land, for his presence is contamination!
+
+As to the charge of hypocrisy--this too has been taught or forced upon the
+Indians by the conduct of the whites. Missionaries have been constantly
+going among them, teaching dogmas and doctrines, far beyond the
+comprehension of some learned white-men, and to the savage totally
+unintelligible. These gentlemen have told long stories; and when posed by
+some quaint saying, or answered by some piece of traditional information,
+handed down from generation to generation, by the fathers and mothers of
+the tribe, have found it necessary to purchase the acquiescence of a few
+Indians by bribes, in order that their labours might not seem to have been
+altogether unsuccessful. This conduct of the Missionaries was soon
+_understood_ by the Indians, and the temptation held out was too great to
+be resisted. Blankets and gowns converted, when inspiration and gospel
+truths had failed.
+
+Mr. Houston of Tennessee, after having attained the honour of being
+governor of his state, and having enjoyed all the consideration
+necessarily attached to that office, at length became tired of civilized
+life, and retired among the Creeks to end his days. He has resided long
+among them, and knows their character well; yet, in one of his statements
+made to the Indian board at New York, he says, that the attempts to
+Christianize the Indians in their present state, he was of opinion, much
+as he honoured the zeal that had prompted them, were fruitless, _or
+worse._ The supposed conversions had produced no change of habits. So
+degraded had become the character of this once independent people, that
+professions of religious belief had been made, and the ordinances of
+religion submitted to, "when an Indian wanted a new blanket, or a squaw a
+new gown."[19] Thus, according to governor Houston, the only fruits
+produced by the boasted labours of the missionaries, have been
+dissimulation and deceit; and demoralization has been the result of
+teaching _doctrinal_ Christianity to the children of the forest. Yet we
+must, in candour, acknowledge that Mr. Houston is not singular in that
+opinion, since we find, so far back as the year 1755, Cadwallader Calden
+express himself much to the same effect. "The Five Nations," he says, "are
+a poor and generally called barbarous people, bred under the darkest
+ignorance; and yet a bright and noble genius shines through these black
+clouds. None of the greatest Roman heroes have discovered a greater love
+of country, or contempt of death, than these people, called barbarous,
+have shown when liberty came in competition. Indeed I think our Indians
+have outdone the Romans in this particular. Some of the greatest of those
+Roman heroes have murdered themselves to avoid shame or torments; but our
+Indians have refused to die meanly or with little pain, when they thought
+their country's honour would be at stake by it; but have given their
+bodies willingly to the most cruel torments of their enemies, to show, as
+they said, that 'the Five Nations' consisted of men whose courage and
+resolution could not be shaken. But what, alas! have we Christians done to
+make them better? We have, indeed, reason to be ashamed that these
+infidels, by our conversation and neighbourhood, are become worse than
+they were before they knew us. Instead of virtue, we have only taught them
+vice, that they were entirely free from before that time."[20] The Rev.
+Timothy Flint, who was himself a missionary, in his "Ten Years' Residence
+in the Valley of the Mississippi," observes, page 144,--"I have surely
+had it in my heart to impress them with the importance of the subject
+(religion). I have scarcely noticed an instance in which the subject was
+not received either with indifference, rudeness, or jesting. Of all races
+of men that I have seen, they seem most incapable of religious
+impressions. They have, indeed, some notions of an invisible agent, but
+they seemed generally to think that the Indians had their god as the
+whites had theirs." And again, "nothing will eventually be gained to the
+great cause by colouring and mis-statement," alluding to the practice of
+the missionaries; "and however reluctant we may be to receive it, the real
+state of things will eventually be known to us. We have heard of the
+imperishable labours of an Elliott and a Brainard, in other days. But in
+these times it is a melancholy truth, that Protestant exertions to
+Christianize them have not been marked with apparent success. The
+Catholics have caused many to hang a crucifix around their necks, which
+they show as they show their medals and other ornaments, and this is too
+often all they have to mark them as Christians. We have read the
+narratives of the Catholics, which detailed the most glowing and animating
+views of success. I have had accounts, however, from travellers in these
+regions, that have been over the Stony mountains into the great missionary
+settlements of St. Peter and St. Paul. These travellers (and some of them
+were professed Catholics) unite in affirming that the converts will escape
+from the missions whenever it is in their power, fly into their native
+deserts, and resume at once their old mode of life."
+
+That the vast sums expended on missions should have produced so little
+effect, we may consider lamentable, but it is lamentably true; for in
+addition to the mass of evidence we have to that effect, from
+disinterested white men, we have also the speeches and communications of
+the Indians themselves. The celebrated Seneca chief, Saguyuwhaha (keeper
+awake), better known in the United States by the name of Red-jacket, in a
+letter communicated to Governor De Witt Clinton, at a treaty held at
+Albany, says, "Our great father, the President, has recommended to our
+young men to be industrious, to plough and to sow. This we have done; and
+we are thankful for the advice, and for the means he has afforded us of
+carrying it into effect. We are happier in consequence of it; _but another
+thing recommended to us, has created great confusion among us, and is
+making us a quarrelsome and divided people; and that is, the introduction
+of preachers into our nation_. These black-coats contrive to get the
+consent of some of the Indians to preach among us; and whenever this is
+the case, confusion and disorder are sure to follow, and the encroachment
+of the whites on our lands is the inevitable consequence.
+
+"The governor must not think hard of me for speaking thus of the
+preachers: I have observed their progress, and whenever I look back to
+see what has taken place of old, I perceive that whenever they came among
+the Indians, they were the forerunners of their dispersion; that they
+always excited enmities and quarrels amongst them; that they introduced
+the white people on their lands, by whom they were robbed and plundered of
+their property; and that the Indians were sure to dwindle and decrease,
+and be driven back, in proportion to the number of preachers that came
+among them.
+
+"Each nation has its own customs and its own religion. The Indians have
+theirs, given them by the Great Spirit, under which they were happy. It
+was not intended that they should embrace the religion of the whites, and
+be destroyed by the attempt to make them think differently on that subject
+from their fathers.
+
+"It is true, these preachers have got the consent of some of the chiefs to
+stay and preach amongst us; but I and my friends know this to be wrong,
+and that they ought to be removed; besides, we have been threatened by Mr.
+Hyde--who came among us as a schoolmaster and a teacher of our children,
+but has now become a black-coat, and refuses to teach them any more--that
+unless we listen to his preaching and become Christians, we shall be
+turned off our lands. We wish to know from the governor, if this is to be
+so? and if he has no right to say so, we think _he_ ought to be turned off
+our lands, and not allowed to plague us any more. We shall never be at
+peace while he is among us.
+
+"We are afraid too, that these preachers, by and by, will become poor,
+_and force us to pay them for living among us, and disturbing us._
+
+"Some of our chiefs have got lazy, and instead of cultivating their lands
+themselves, employ white people to do so. There are now eleven families
+living on our reservation at Buffalo; this is wrong, and ought not to be
+permitted. The great source of all our grievances is, that the whites are
+among us. Let _them_ be removed, and we will be happy and contented among
+ourselves. We now cry to the governor for help, and hope that he will
+attend to our complaints, and speedily give us redress."[21]
+
+This melancholy hostility to the missionaries is not confined to a
+particular tribe or nation of Indians, for all those people, in every
+situation, from the base of the Alleghanies to the foot of the Rocky
+mountains, declare the same sentiments on this subject; and although
+policy or courtesy may induce some chiefs to express themselves less
+strongly than Red-jacket has expressed himself, we have but too many
+proofs that their feelings are not more moderate. On the fourth of
+February, 1822, the president of the United States, in council, received a
+deputation of Indians, from the principal nations west of the
+Mississippi, who came under the protection of Major O'Fallon, when each
+chief delivered a speech on the occasion. I shall here insert an extract
+from that of the "Wandering Pawnee" chief, more as a specimen of Indian
+wisdom and eloquence than as bearing particularly on the subject. Speaking
+of the Great Spirit, he said, "We worship him not as you do. We differ
+from you in appearance, and manners, as well as in our customs; and we
+differ from you in our religion. We have no large houses, as you have, to
+worship the Great Spirit in: if we had them to-day, we should want others
+to-morrow; for we have not like you a fixed habitation--we have no settled
+home except our villages, where we remain but two months in twelve. We,
+like animals, rove through the country; whilst you whites reside between
+us and heaven. But still, my great Father, we love the Great Spirit--we
+acknowledge his supreme power--our peace, our health, and our happiness
+depend upon him, and our lives belong to him--he made us, and he can
+destroy us.
+
+"My great Father,--some of your good chiefs, as they are called
+(missionaries), have proposed to send some of their good people among us
+to change our habits, to make us work for them, and live like the white
+people. I will not tell a lie--I am going to tell the truth. You love your
+country--you love your people--you love the manner in which they live, and
+you think your people brave. I am like you, my great Father; I love my
+country--I love my people--I love the manner in which we live, and think
+myself and warriors brave.[22] Spare me then, my Father; let me enjoy my
+country, and pursue the buffalo and the beaver, and the other wild animals
+of our country, and I will trade their skins with your people. I have
+grown up and lived thus long without work--I am in hopes you will suffer
+me to die without it. We have plenty of buffalo, beaver, deer, and other
+wild animals--we have also an abundance of horses--we have every thing we
+want--we have plenty of land, _if you will keep your people off it_. My
+Father has a piece on which he lives (Council bluffs), and we wish him to
+enjoy it--we have enough without it--but we wish him to live near us, to
+give us good council--to keep our ears and eyes open, that we may continue
+to pursue the right road--the road to happiness. He settles all
+differences between us and the whites, between the red-skins
+themselves--he makes the whites do justice to the red-skins, and he makes
+the red-skins do justice to the whites. He saves the effusion of human
+blood, and restores peace and happiness in the land. You have already sent
+us a father (Major O'Fallon); it is enough--he knows us, and we know
+him--we keep our eye constantly upon him, and since we have heard _your_
+words, we will listen more attentively to _his_.
+
+"It is too soon, my great Father, to send those good chiefs amongst us.
+_We are not starving yet_--we wish you to permit us to enjoy the chase
+until the game of our country is exhausted--until the wild animals become
+extinct. Let us exhaust our present resources before you make us toil and
+interrupt our happiness. Let me continue to live as I have done; and after
+I have passed to the good or evil spirit, from off the wilderness of my
+present life, the subsistence of my children may become so precarious as
+to need and embrace the assistance of those good people.
+
+"There was a time when we did not know the whites--our wants were then
+fewer than they are now. They were always within our control--we had then
+seen nothing which we could not get. Before our intercourse with the
+whites (who have caused such a destruction in our game) we could lie down
+to sleep, and when we awoke we would find the buffalo feeding around our
+camp--but now we are killing them for their skins, and feeding the wolves
+with their flesh, to make our children cry over their bones.
+
+"Here, my great Father, is a pipe which I present to you, as I am
+accustomed to present pipes to all the Red-skins in peace with us. It is
+filled with such tobacco as we were accustomed to smoke before we knew
+the white people. It is pleasant, and the spontaneous growth of the most
+remote parts of our country. I know that the robes, leggings, and
+moccasins, and bear-claws are of little value to _you_; but we wish you to
+have them deposited and preserved in some conspicuous part of your lodge,
+so that when we are gone and the sod turned over our bones, if our
+children should visit this place, as we do now, they may see and recognize
+with pleasure the depositories of their fathers; and reflect on the times
+that are past."
+
+I shall now take leave of the Indians and their political condition, by
+observing that the proceedings of the American government, throughout,
+towards this brave but unfortunate race, have only been exceeded in
+atrocity by the past and present conduct of the East India government
+towards the pusillanimous but unoffending Hindoos.
+
+    _Note_.--This chapter I wrote during my stay in Kentucky, and the
+    first part of it, in substance, was inserted in the "Kentucky
+    Intelligencer," at the request of the talented editor and
+    proprietor, John Mullay, Esq.
+
+FOOTNOTES:
+
+[15] In November, 1785, during the articles of confederation, a treaty is
+concluded with the Cherokees, which establishes a boundary, and allots to
+the Indians a great extent of country, now within the limits of North
+Carolina and Georgia.
+
+In 1791, the treaty of Holston is concluded; by which a new boundary is
+agreed upon. This was the first treaty made by the United States under
+their present constitution; and by the seventh article, a solemn
+guarantee is given for all the lands not then ceded.
+
+On the 7th of February, 1792, by an additional article to the last
+treaty, 500 dollars are added to the stipulated annuity.
+
+In June, 1794, another treaty is entered into, in which the provisions of
+the treaty of 1791 are revived, an addition is made to the annuity, and
+provision made for marking the boundary line.
+
+In October, 1798, a treaty is concluded which revives former treaties,
+and curtails the boundary of Indian lands by a cession to the United
+States, for an additional compensation.
+
+In October, 1804, a treaty is concluded, by which, for a consideration
+specified, more land is ceded.
+
+In October, 1805, two treaties are made, by which an additional quantity
+of land is ceded.
+
+On 7th January, 1806, by another treaty, more land is ceded to the United
+States.
+
+In September, 1807, the boundary line intended in the last treaty, is
+satisfactorily ascertained.
+
+On 22d March, 1816, a treaty is concluded, by which lands in South
+Carolina are ceded, for which the United States engage South Carolina
+shall pay. On the same day another treaty is made, by which the Indians
+agree to allow the use of the water-courses in their country, and also to
+permit roads to be made through the same.
+
+On the 14th of September, 1816, a treaty is made, by which an additional
+quantity of land is ceded to the United States.
+
+On the 8th of July, 1817, a treaty is concluded, by which an exchange of
+lands is agreed on, and a plan for dividing the Cherokees settled.
+
+On the 27th of February, 1819, another treaty is concluded, in execution
+of the stipulations contained in that of 1817, in several particulars,
+and in which an additional tract of country is ceded to the United
+States.
+
+[16] "The white hunter, on encamping in his journeys, cuts down green
+trees, and builds a large fire of long logs, sitting at some distance
+from it. The Indian hunts up a few dry limbs, cracks them into little
+pieces a foot in length, builds a small fire, and sits close to it. He
+gets as much warmth as the white hunter without half the labour, and does
+not burn more than a fiftieth part of the wood. The Indian considers the
+forest his own, and is careful in using and preserving every thing which
+it affords. He never kills more than he has occasion for. The white
+hunter destroys all before him, and cannot resist the opportunity of
+killing game, although he neither wants the meat nor can carry the skins.
+I was particularly struck with this wanton practice, which lately
+occurred on White river. A hunter returning from the woods, heavily laden
+with the flesh and skins of five bears, unexpectedly arrived in the midst
+of a drove of buffalos, and wantonly shot down three, having no other
+object than the sport of killing them. This is one of the causes
+of the enmity existing between the white and red hunters of
+Missouri".--_Schoolcroft's Tour in Missouri_, page 52.
+
+[17] Does the General include among the arts of civilization, that of
+systematically robbing the Indians of their farms and hunting grounds? If
+so, no doubt _these arts of civilization_, must inevitably "destroy the
+resources of the savage," and "doom him to weakness and decay."
+
+[18] The Indians apply the term "Christian honesty," precisely in the
+same sense that the Romans applied "_Punica fides_."
+
+[19] There is an old Indian at present in the Missouri territory, to whom
+his tribe has given the cognomen of "much-water," from the circumstance
+of his having been baptized so frequently.
+
+[20] Heriot says (page 320), "They have evinced a decided attachment to
+their ancient habits, and have _gained_ less from the means that might
+have smoothed the asperities of their condition, than they have _lost_ by
+copying the vices of those, who exhibited to their view the arts of
+civilization."
+
+[21] This letter was dictated by Red-jacket, and interpreted by Henry
+Obeal, in the presence of ten chiefs, whose names are affixed, at
+Canandaigua, January 18, 1821.
+
+[22] "The attachment which savages entertain for their mode of life
+supersedes every allurement, however powerful, to change it. Many
+Frenchmen have lived with them, and have imbibed such an invincible
+partiality for that independent and erratic condition, that no means
+could prevail on them to abandon it. On the contrary, no single instance
+has yet occurred of a savage being able to reconcile himself to a state
+of civilization. Infants have been taken from among the natives, and
+educated with much care in France, where they could not possibly have
+intercourse with their countrymen and relations. Although they had
+remained several years in that country, and could not form the smallest
+idea of the wilds of America, the force of blood predominated over that
+of education: no sooner did they find themselves at liberty than they
+tore their clothes in pieces, and went to traverse the forests in search
+of their countrymen, whose mode of life appeared to them far more
+agreeable than that which they had led among the French."--_-Heriot_, p.
+354.
+
+This passage of Heriot's is taken nearly verbatim from Charlevoix, v. 2,
+p. 109.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER X.
+
+
+I left Kentucky, and passed up the river to Wheeling, in Virginia. There
+is little worthy of observation encountered in a passage up this part of
+the Ohio, except the peculiar character of the stream, which has been
+before alluded to. At Marietta, at the mouth of the Muskingum,
+ship-building is carried on; and vessels have been constructed at
+Pittsburg, full 2000 miles from the gulf of Mexico. About seventy miles up
+the Kenhawa river, in Virginia, are situated the celebrated salt springs,
+the most productive of any in the Union. They are at present in the
+possession of a chartered company, which limits the manufacture to
+800,000 bushels annually, but it is estimated that the fifty-seven wells
+are capable of yielding 50,000 bushels each, per annum, which would make
+an aggregate of 2,850,000 bushels. Many of these springs issue out of
+rocks, and the water is so strongly impregnated with salt, that from 90 to
+130 gallons yield a bushel. The whole western country bordering the Ohio
+and its tributaries, is supplied with salt from these works.
+
+Wheeling, although not large, enjoys a considerable share of commercial
+intercourse, being an entrepot for eastern merchandize, which is
+transported from the Atlantic cities across the mountains to this town and
+Pittsburg, and from thence by water to the different towns along the
+rivers.
+
+The process of "hauling" merchandize from Baltimore and Philadelphia to
+the banks of the Ohio, and _vice versa_, is rather tedious, the roads
+lying across steep and rugged mountains. Large covered waggons, light and
+strong, drawn by five or six horses, two and two, are employed for this
+purpose. The waggoner always rides the near shaft horse, and guides the
+team by means of reins, a whip, and his voice. The time generally consumed
+in one of these journeys is from twenty to twenty-five days.
+
+All the mountains or hills on the upper part of the Ohio, from Wheeling to
+Pittsburg, contain immense beds of coal; this added to the mineral
+productions, particularly that of iron ore, which abound in this section
+of country, offers advantages for manufacturing, which are of considerable
+importance, and are fully appreciated. Pittsburg is called the Birmingham
+of America. Some of those coal beds are well circumstanced, the coal being
+found immediately under the super-stratum, and the galleries frequently
+running out on the high road. Notwithstanding the local advantages, and
+the protection and encouragement at present afforded by the tariff,
+England need never fear any extensive competition with her manufactures
+in foreign markets from America, as the high spirit of the people of that
+country will always prevent them from pursuing, extensively, the sordid
+occupations of the loom or the workshop.
+
+The upper parts of Virginia and Pennsylvania are in a high state of
+improvement; the land is hilly, and the face of the country picturesque.
+The farms are well cultivated, and there is a large portion of pasture
+land in this and the adjoining states. I encountered several large droves
+of horses and black cattle on their way to the neighbourhood of
+Philadelphia and to the state of New York. The black cattle are purchased
+principally in Ohio, whence they are brought into the Atlantic states, to
+be fattened and consumed. The farmers and their families in Pennsylvania,
+have an appearance of comfort and respectability a good deal resembling
+that of the substantial English yeoman; yet farming here, as in all parts
+of the country, is a laborious occupation.
+
+I crossed the Monongahela at Williamsport, and the Youghaghany at
+Robstown, and so on through Mountpleasant to the first ridge of mountains,
+called "the chestnut ridge." I determined on crossing the mountains on
+foot; and after having made arrangements to that effect, I commenced
+sauntering along the road. Near Mountpleasant, I stopped to dine at the
+house of a Dutchman by descent. After dinner, the party adjourned, as is
+customary, to the bar-room, when divers political and polemical topics
+were canvassed with the usual national warmth. An account of his late
+Majesty's death was inserted in a Philadelphia paper, and happened to be
+noticed by one of the politicians present, when the landlord asked me how
+we elected our king in England. I replied that he was not elected, but
+that he became king by birthright, &c. A Kentuckian observed, placing his
+leg on the back of the next chair, "That's a kind of unnatural." An
+Indianian said, "I don't believe in that system myself." A third--"Do you
+mean to tell me, that because the last king was a smart man and knew his
+duty, that his son, or his brother, should be a smart man, and fit for the
+situation?" I explained that we had a premier, ministers, &c.;--when the
+last gentleman replied, "Then you pay half-a-dozen men to do one man's
+business. Yes--yes--that may do for Englishmen very well; but, I guess, it
+would not go down here--no, no, Americans are a little more enlightened
+than to stand that kind of wiggery." During this conversation, a person
+had stepped into the room, and had taken his seat in silence. I was about
+to reply to the last observations of my antagonist, when this gentleman
+opened out, with, "yes! that may do for Englishmen very well"--he was an
+Englishman, I knew at once by his accent, and I verily believe the
+identical radical who set the village of Bracebridge by the ears, and
+pitched the villagers to the devil, on seeing them grin through a
+horse-collar, when they should have been calculating the interest of the
+national debt, or conning over the list of sinecure placemen. He held in
+his hand, instead of "Cobbett's Register," the "Greenville
+Republican."--He had substituted for his short-sleeved coat, "a
+round-about."--He seemed to have put on flesh, and looked somewhat more
+contented. "Yes, yes," he says, "that may do for Englishmen very well, but
+it won't do here. Here we make our own laws, and we keep them too. It may
+do for Englishmen very well, to have _the liberty_ of paying taxes for the
+support of the nobility. To have _the liberty_ of being incarcerated in a
+gaol, for shooting the wild animals of the country. To have _the liberty_
+of being seized by a press-gang, torn away from their wives and families,
+and flogged at the discretion of my lord Tom, Dick, or Harry's bastard."
+At this, the Kentuckian gnashed his teeth, and instinctively grasped his
+hunting-knife;--an old Indian doctor, who was squatting in one corner of
+the room, said, slowly and emphatically, as his eyes glared, his nostrils
+dilated, and his lip curled with contempt--"The Englishman is a
+dog"--while a Georgian slave, who stood behind his master's chair, grinned
+and chuckled with delight, as he said--"_poor_ Englishman, him meaner man
+den black nigger."--"To have," continued the Englishman, "_the liberty_ of
+being transported for seven years for being caught learning the use of the
+sword or the musket. To have the tenth lamb, and the tenth sheaf seized,
+or the blanket torn from off his bed, to pay a bloated, a plethoric bishop
+or parson,--to be kicked and cuffed about by a parcel of 'Bourbon
+_gendarmerie_'--Liberty!--why hell sweat"--here I--slipped out at the side
+door into the water-melon patch. As I receded, I heard the whole party
+burst out into an obstreperous fit of laughter.--A few broken sentences,
+from the Kentuckian and the radical, reached my ear, such as "backed
+out"--"damned aristocratic." I returned in about half an hour to pay my
+bill, when I could observe one or two of those doughty politicians who
+remained, leering at me most significantly. However, I--"smiled, and said
+nothing."
+
+"The Chestnut ridge" is a chain of rocky, barren mountains, covered with
+wood, and the ascent is steep and difficult. It is named from the quantity
+of chestnut trees that compose the bulk of its timber. Being a little
+fatigued in ascending, I sat down in a wood of scrub oak. When I had been
+some time seated on a large stone, my ear caught the gliding of a snake.
+Turning quickly, I perceived, at about a yard's distance, a reptile of
+that beautiful species the rattle-snake. He ceased moving: I jumped up,
+and struck at his head with a stick, but missed the blow. He instantly
+coiled and rattled. I now retreated beyond the range of his spring.
+Perceiving that I had no intention of giving him fair play by coming
+within his reach, he suddenly uncoiled and glid across a log, thinking to
+make good his retreat; but being determined on having--not his scalp, for
+the head of a rattle-snake is rather a dangerous toy--but his rattle, I
+pursued him across the log. He now coiled again, and rattled most
+furiously, thus indicating his extreme wrath at being attacked: the bite
+of this reptile is most venomous when he is most enraged. I took up a flat
+stone, about six inches square, and lobbed it on his coil. He suddenly
+darted out towards me; but, as I had anticipated, he was encumbered with
+the stone. I now advanced, and struck him on the head with my stick. I
+repeated the blow until he seemed to be deprived of sensation, when I drew
+my hunting knife and decapitated him. For a full hour afterwards the body
+retained all the vigour and sensitiveness which it possessed previous to
+decapitation, and on touching any part of it, would twist round in the
+same manner as when the animal was perfect. Sensation gradually
+disappeared, departing first from the extremities--more towards the
+wounded extremity than towards the other, but gradually from both, until
+it was entirely gone. The length of this reptile was about four feet, and
+the skin was extremely beautiful. Nothing could exceed the beauty of his
+eye. A clear black lustre characterizes the eye of this animal, and is
+said to produce so powerful an effect on birds and smaller animals, as to
+deprive them of the power of escaping. This snake had eight rattles, so
+that he must have been at least eleven years old. I understood afterwards
+that there was a rattle-snakes' den in the neighbourhood. They appear to
+live in society, and the large quantities that are frequently found
+congregated together are astonishing. The Jacksonville (Illinois) Gazette
+of the 22d April, 1830, says, "Last week, a den of rattle-snakes was
+discovered near Apple Creek, by a person while engaged in digging for rock
+in that part of our country. He made known the circumstance to the
+neighbours, who visited the place, where they killed 193 rattle-snakes,
+the largest of which (as our informant, who was on the spot, told us)
+measured nearly four feet in length. Besides these, there were sixteen
+black snakes destroyed, together with one copper-head. Counting the young
+ones, there were upwards of 1000 killed." There are two species of
+rattle-snake, which are in constant hostility with each other. The common
+black snake, whose bite is perfectly innoxious, and the copper-head, have
+also a deadly enmity towards the rattle-snake, which, when they meet it,
+they never fail to attack.
+
+The next ridge of mountains is called the "laurel hills," which are
+covered with an immense growth of different species of laurel. Between
+these and the Alleghany ridge are situated "the glades"--beautiful fertile
+plains in a high state of cultivation. This district is most healthy, and
+fevers and agues are unknown to the inhabitants. Here the "Delawares of
+the hills" once roamed the sole lords of this fine country; and perhaps
+from the very eminence from whence I contemplated the beauty of the scene,
+some warrior, returning from the "war path" or the chase, may have gazed
+with pleasure on the hills of his fathers, the possessions of a long line
+of Sylvan heros, and in the pride of manhood said--'The Delawares are
+men--they are strong in battle, and cunning on the trail of their foes--at
+the 'council fire' there is wisdom in their words. Who counts more scalps
+than the Lenni Lenape warrior?--he can never be conquered--the stranger
+shall never dwell in his glades.' Where now is the "Delaware of the
+hills?"--gone!--his very name is unknown in his own land, and not a
+vestige remains to tell that _there_ once dwelt a great and powerful
+tribe. When the white man falls, his high towers and lofty battlements are
+laid crumbling with the dust, yet these mighty ruins remain for ages,
+monuments of his former greatness: but the Indian passes away, silent as
+the noiseless tread of the moccasin--the next snow comes, and his "trail"
+is blotted out for ever.
+
+I toiled across the Alleghanies, which are completely covered with timber,
+and passed on to a place within about thirty miles of Chambersburg, on a
+branch of the Potomac. Here, coming in upon _civilization_, I took the
+stage to Baltimore. In my pedestrian excursion the road lay for several
+miles along the banks of the Juniata, which is a very fine river. The
+scenery is romantic, and is much beautified by a large growth of
+magnificent pines. The Alleghany ridge is composed chiefly of sand-stone,
+clay-slate, and lime-stone-slate, sand-stone sometimes in large blocks.
+
+I encountered several parties of French, Irish, Swiss, Bavarians, Dutch,
+&c. going westward, with swarms of children, and considerable quantities
+of household lumber:--symptoms of seeking _El dorado_.
+
+In the neighbourhood of Baltimore there are many handsome residences, and
+the farms are all well cleared, and in many cases walled in. The number of
+comparatively miserable-looking cabins which are dispersed along the road
+near this town, and the long lists of crimes and misdemeanours with which
+the Journals of Baltimore and Philadelphia are filled, sufficiently
+indicate that these cities have arrived to an advanced state of
+civilization. For, wherever there are very rich people, there must be very
+poor people; and wherever there are very poor people, there must
+necessarily exist a proportionate quantity of crime. Men are poor, only
+because they are ignorant; for if they possessed a knowledge of their own
+powers and capabilities, they would then know, that however wealth may be
+distributed, all real wealth is created by labour, and by labour alone.
+
+Baltimore is seated on the north side of the Patapsco river, within a few
+miles of the Chesapeak bay. It received its name in compliment to the
+Irish family of the Calverts. The harbour, at Fell Point, has about
+eighteen feet water, and is defended by a strong fort, called Mc Henry's
+fort, on Observation Hill. Vessels of large tonnage cannot enter the
+basin. In 1791 it contained 13,503 inhabitants; in 1810, 46,487; and at
+present it contains 80,519. There are many fine buildings and monuments in
+this city; and the streets in which business is not extensively
+transacted, are planted with Lombardy poplar, locust, and pride-of-china
+trees,--the last mentioned especially afford a fine shade.
+
+A considerable schooner trade is carried on by the merchants of Baltimore
+with South America. The schooners of this port are celebrated for their
+beauty, and are much superior to those of any other port on the Continent.
+They are sharp built, somewhat resembling the small Greek craft one sees
+in the Mediterranean. A rail-road is being constructed from this place to
+the Ohio river, a distance of upwards of three hundred miles, and about
+fourteen miles of the road is already completed, as is also a viaduct. If
+the enterprising inhabitants of Baltimore be able to finish this
+undertaking, it must necessarily throw a very large amount of wealth into
+their hands, to the prejudice of Philadelphia and New York. But the
+expense will be enormous.
+
+I left Baltimore for Philadelphia in one of those splendid and spacious
+steam-boats peculiar to this country. We paddled up the Chesapeak bay
+until we came to Elk river--the scenery at both sides is charming. A
+little distance up this river commences the "Chesapeak and Delaware
+canal," which passes through the old state of Delaware, and unites the
+waters of the two bays. Here we were handed into a barge, or what we in
+common parlance would term a large canal boat; but the Americans are the
+fondest people in the universe of big names, and ransack the Dictionary
+for the most pompous appellations with which to designate their works or
+productions. The universal fondness for European titles that obtains here,
+is also remarkable. The president, is "his excellency,"--"congressmen,"
+are "honorables,"--and every petty merchant, or "dry-goods store-keeper,"
+is, at least, an esquire. Their newspapers contain many specimens of this
+love of monarchical distinctions--such as, "wants a situation, as
+store-keeper (shopman), a gentleman, &c." "Two gentlemen were convicted
+and sentenced to six months' imprisonment for horse-stealing, &c." These
+two items I read myself in the papers of the western country, and the
+latter was commented on by a Philadelphia journal. You may frequently see
+"Miss Amanda," without shoes or stockings--certainly for convenience or
+economy, not from necessity, and generally in Dutch houses--and "that
+_ere_ young lady" scouring the pails! An accident lately occurred in one
+of the factories in New England, and the local paper stated, that "one
+young lady was seriously injured,"--this young lady was a spinner.
+Observe, I by no means object to the indiscriminate use of the terms
+_gentleman_ and _lady_, but merely state the fact. On the contrary, so far
+am I from finding fault with the practice, that I think it quite fair;
+when any portion of republicans make use of terms which properly belong to
+a monarchy, that all classes should do the same, it being unquestionably
+their right. It does not follow, because a man may be introduced as an
+_American gentleman_, that he may not be simply a mechanic.
+
+The Chesapeak and Delaware canal is about fourteen miles in length; and
+from the nature of the soil through which it is cut, there was some
+difficulty attending the permanent security of the work. On reaching the
+Delaware, we were again handed into a steamer, and so conducted to
+Philadelphia. The merchant shipping, and the numerous pleasure and
+steam-boats, and craft of every variety, which are constantly moving on
+the broad bosom of the Delaware, present a gay and animated scene.
+
+Philadelphia is a regular well-built city, and one of the handsomest in
+the states. It lies in latitude 39 deg. 56' north, and longitude, west of
+London, 75 deg. 8'; distant from the sea, 120 miles. The city stands on an
+elevated piece of ground between the Schuylkill and Delaware rivers, about
+a mile broad from bank to bank, and six miles from their junction. The
+Delaware is about a mile wide at Philadelphia, and ships of the largest
+tonnage can approach the wharf. The city contains many fine buildings of
+Schuylkill marble. The streets are well paved, and have broad _trottoirs_
+of hard red brick. The police regulations are excellent, and cleanliness
+is much attended to, the kennels being washed daily during the summer
+months, with water from the reservoirs. The markets, or shambles, extend
+half-a-mile in length, from the wharf up Market-street, in six divisions.
+In addition to the shambles, farmers' waggons, loaded with every kind of
+country produce for sale, line the street.
+
+There are five banking establishments in the city: the Bank of North
+America, the United States Bank, the Bank of Pennsylvania, the Bank of
+Philadelphia, and the Farmers' Bank.
+
+The principal institutions are, the Franklin library, which contains
+upwards of 20,000 volumes. Strangers are admitted gratis, and are
+permitted to peruse any of the books. The Americans should adopt this
+practice in all their national exhibitions, and rather copy the liberality
+of the French than the sordid churlishness of the English, who compel
+foreigners to pay even for seeing the property of the nation. The other
+institutions are, the University of Pennsylvania, a College, Medical
+Theatre, College of Physicians, Philosophical Hall, Agricultural and
+Linnean Societies, Academy of Fine Arts, and the Cincinnati Society, which
+originated in an attempt to establish a sort of aristocracy. The members
+were at its formation the surviving officers of the revolution; they wear
+an eagle, suspended by a ribbon, which, at their death, they have
+appointed to be taken by their eldest sons. There are besides, the
+Academies of the Philadelphian Friends, and the German Lutherans; Sunday
+and Lancasterian schools; and, of course, divers Bible and Tract
+Societies, which are patronized by all the antiquated dames in the city,
+and superintended by the Methodist and Presbyterian parsons. The Methodist
+parsons of this country have the character of being men of gallantry; and
+indeed, from the many instances I have heard of their propensity in this
+way, from young Americans, I should be a very sceptic to doubt the fact.
+
+There are also St. George's, St. Patrick's, St. David's, and St. Andrew's
+Societies for the relief and colonization of British emigrants; a French
+and a German Emigrant Society, and several hospitals. There are two
+theatres and an amphitheatre. Peal's Museum contains a large collection,
+which is scientifically arranged; among other fossils is the perfect
+skeleton of a mammoth, found in a bed of marle in the state of New York.
+The length of this animal, from the bend of the tusks to the rump, was
+about twenty-seven feet, and the height and bulk proportionate.
+
+The navy-yard contains large quantities of timber, spars, and rigging,
+prepared for immediate use, as also warlike stores of every description.
+There is here, a ship of 140 guns, of large calibre, and a frigate. Both
+are housed completely, and in a condition to be launched in a few months,
+if necessary. They are constructed of the very best materials, and in the
+most durable and solid manner. There are now being constructed, seriatim,
+twenty-five ships of the line--one for every state in the Union. The
+government occasionally sells the smaller vessels of war to merchants, in
+order to increase the shipping, and to secure that those armed vessels
+which are afloat, may be in the finest possible condition. A corvette,
+completely equipped, was lately sold to his majesty the autocrat of the
+Russias; but was dismasted in a day or two after her departure from
+Charleston. She was taken in tow by the vessel of a New York merchant, and
+carried into the port of that city. The merchant refused any compensation
+from the Russian minister, although his vessel was, when she fell in with
+the wreck, proceeding to the Austral regions, and her putting about was
+greatly disadvantageous. The minister returned thanks publicly, on the
+part of his master, and expressed his majesty's sense of the invariable
+consideration and friendship with which his majesty's subjects are treated
+by the citizens of America. There appears to be a universal wish among the
+Americans to cultivate an alliance, offensive and defensive, with his
+majesty of Russia. The cry is, "all the Russians want is a fleet, and
+we'll lend them that." In fact, a deadly animosity pervades America
+towards Great Britain; and although it is not publicly confessed, for the
+Americans are too able politicians to do that, yet it is no less certain,
+that "_Delenda est Carthago_," is their motto. Let England look to it. Her
+power is great; but, if the fleets of America, France, and Russia, were to
+combine, and land on the shores of England hordes of Russians, and
+battalions of disciplined Frenchmen--if this were to be done, with the
+Irish people, instead of allies as they should be, her deadly enemies, her
+power is annihilated at a blow! For let it be remembered, that there is no
+rallying principle in the temperament of the mass of the English people;
+and that formerly one single victory,--the victory of Hastings, completely
+subjugated them. Hume, who was decidedly an impartial historian, is
+compelled to say of that conquest, "It would be difficult to find in all
+history a revolution more destructive, or attended with a more complete
+subjection of the ancient inhabitants. Contumely seems even to have been
+wantonly added to oppression; and the natives were universally reduced to
+such a state of meanness and poverty, that the English name became a term
+of reproach; and several generations elapsed before one family of Saxon
+pedigree was raised to any considerable honours, or could so much as
+obtain the rank of baron of the realm."--Yet the English people owe much
+to the ancestors of the aristocracy, who introduced among them the arts
+and refinements of civilization, and by their wisdom and disciplined
+valour have raised the country to that pitch of greatness, so justly
+termed "the envy of surrounding nations." I do not contend, that because a
+nation may have acquired the name of great, that therefore _the people_
+are more happy; but am rather inclined to think the contrary, for
+conquests are generally made and wealth is accumulated for the benefit of
+the few, and at the expense of the many.
+
+A law has been lately passed by the legislature of Pennsylvania, taxing
+wholesale and retail dealers in merchandize, excepting those importers of
+foreign goods who vend the articles in the form in which they are
+imported. This act classes the citizens according to their annual amount
+of sales, and taxes them in the same proportion. Those who effect sales to
+the amount of fifty thousand dollars, constitute the first class; of forty
+thousand dollars, the second class; of thirty thousand dollars, the third
+class; of twenty thousand dollars, the fourth class; of fifteen thousand
+dollars, the fifth class; of ten thousand dollars, the sixth class; of
+five thousand dollars, the seventh class; and all persons effecting sales
+not exceeding two thousand five hundred dollars, constitute the eighth
+class. The first class shall pay for license, annually, fifty dollars; the
+second class, forty dollars; the third class, thirty dollars; the fourth
+class, twenty-five dollars; the fifth class, twenty dollars; the sixth
+class, fifteen dollars; the seventh class, twelve dollars and fifty cents,
+and the eighth class ten dollars.
+
+Direct taxation has been found in all cases to be obnoxious, and this
+particular mode, I apprehend, is calculated to produce very pernicious
+effects. The laws of a republic should all tend to establish and support,
+as far as is practicable, the principle of equality, and any act that has
+a contrary tendency must be injurious to the community. Now this act draws
+a direct line of demarcation between citizens, in proportion to the extent
+of their dealings; and as in this country a man's importance is entirely
+estimated by his supposed wealth, the citizens of Pennsylvania can
+henceforth only claim a share of respectability, proportionate to the
+_class_ to which they belong. The west country ladies have shewn a great
+aptitude for forming "circles of society," and the promulgation of this
+law affords them a most powerful aid in establishing a _store-keeping
+aristocracy_.
+
+The large cities in America are by no means so lightly taxed as might be
+supposed from the cheapness of the government; the public works, public
+buildings, and police establishments, requiring adequate funds for their
+maintenance and support; however, the inhabitants have the consolation of
+knowing that this must gradually decrease, and that their money is laid
+out for their own advantage, and not for the purpose of pensioning off the
+mistresses and physicians of viceroys, as in Ireland.[23] Another thing is
+to be observed, that in addition to the _national_ debt, each state has a
+_private_ debt, which in many cases is tolerably large. These debts have
+been created by expenditures on roads, canals, and public buildings. The
+mode of taxation latterly adopted by the legislature is not popular, and
+many of the public prints have remonstrated against the system. "The
+Philadelphia Gazette," of the 24th Sept. 1830, makes the following
+remarks--"The subject of unequal and oppressive taxation deserves more
+attention than it has hitherto received from our citizens. The misery of
+England is occasioned less by the amount of revenue that is raised there,
+than by the manner in which it is raised. In Pennsylvania we are going on
+rapidly, making our state a second England in regard of debt and taxation.
+Our public debt is already 13,000,000 dollars; and before our canals and
+rail-roads shall be completed, it will probably amount to 18 or 20
+millions. The law imposing taxes of 10, 20, 30, 40 and 50 dollars on
+retailers, is not the only just subject of complaint. The _collateral
+inheritance_ tax is equally unjust. The tavern-keepers are besides to be
+taxed from 20 to 50 dollars each. Nor does the matter end here. At the
+next session of the legislature, it will, in all probability, be found
+necessary to lay on additional taxes: and when the principle of unjust
+taxation is once admitted in legislation, it is difficult to say how far
+it will be carried."
+
+Whilst staying at Philadelphia an account of the French revolution
+arrived, and the merchants, there and at New York, were in high spirits,
+thinking that war was inevitable. A war in Europe is always hailed with
+delight in America, as it opens a field for commercial enterprise, and
+gives employment to the shipping, of which at present they are much in
+need.
+
+During the long and ruinous war in Europe, the mercantile and shipping
+interests of the United States advanced with an unexampled degree of
+rapidity. The Americans were then the carriers of nearly all Europe, and
+scarcely any merchandize entered the ports of the belligerent powers, but
+in American bottoms. This unnatural state of prosperity could not last:
+peace was established, and from that era the decline of commerce in the
+United States may be dated. The merchants seem not to have calculated on
+this event's so soon taking place, or to have overrated the increase of
+prosperity and population in their own country, as up to that period, and
+for some years afterwards, there does appear to have been no relaxation of
+ship-building, and little diminution of mercantile speculations. At
+present the ship-owners are realizing little beyond the expenses of their
+vessels, and in many cases the bottoms are actually in debt. The frequent
+failures in the Atlantic cities, of late, are mainly to be attributed to
+unsuccessful ship speculations; and I am myself aware of more than one
+instance, where the freight was so extremely low, as to do little more
+than cover the expenditure of the voyage. On my return to Europe, while
+staying at Marseilles, twelve American vessels arrived in that port within
+the space of two months; and before my departure, nine of these returned
+to the United States with ballast (stones), and I believe only two with
+full cargos.
+
+In a national point of view, the difficulty of obtaining employment for
+the shipping of America may not have been so injurious as at first view
+it appears to be; on the contrary, I am of opinion that it has been
+advantageous. Whilst a profitable trade could with facility be carried on
+with and in Europe, the merchants seldom thought of extending their
+enterprises to any other parts of the world; but since the decline of that
+trade, communications have been opened with the East Indies, Africa, all
+the ports of the Mediterranean, and voyages to the Pacific, and to the
+Austral regions, are now of common occurrence. The museums in the Atlantic
+cities bear ample testimony to the enterprising character of the American
+merchants, which by their means are filled with all the curious and
+interesting productions of the East. This has encouraged a taste for
+scientific studies, and for travelling; which must ultimately tend to
+raise the nation to a degree of respectability little inferior to the
+oldest European state.
+
+FOOTNOTES:
+
+[23] An Irish viceroy lately paid his physician by conferring on him a
+baronetcy, and a pension of two hundred pounds a year, of the public
+money.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XI.
+
+
+Having sojourned for more than three weeks at Philadelphia, I departed for
+New York. The impressions made on my mind during that time were highly
+favourable to the Philadelphians and their city. It is the handsomest city
+in the Union; and the inhabitants, in sociability and politeness, have
+much the advantage of any other body of people with whom I came in
+contact.
+
+The steamer takes you up the Delaware river to Bordentown, in New Jersey,
+twenty-four miles from Philadelphia. The country at either side is in a
+high state of cultivation. It is interspersed with handsome country seats,
+and on the whole presents a most charming prospect. There is scarcely a
+single point passed up the windings of the Delaware, but presents a new
+and pleasing variety of landscape--luxuriant foliage--gently swelling
+hills, and fertile lawns; which last having been lately mown, were covered
+with a rich green sward most pleasing to the eye. The banks of the river
+at Bordentown are high, and the town, as seen from the water, has a pretty
+effect. Here a stage took us across New Jersey to Amboy. This is not a
+large town, nor can it ever be of much importance, being situated too near
+the cities of New York and Philadelphia. At Amboy we again took the
+steam-boat up the bay, and after a delightful sail of thirty miles,
+through scenery the most beautiful and magnificent, we arrived at New
+York.
+
+When I was at New York about fifteen months before, I was informed that
+the working classes were being organized into regular bodies, similar to
+the "union of trades" in England, for the purpose of retaining all
+political power in their own hands. This organization has taken place at
+the suggestion of Frances Wright, of whom I shall again have occasion to
+speak presently, and has succeeded to an astonishing extent. There are
+three or four different bodies of the "workies," as they call themselves
+familiarly, which vary somewhat from each other in their principles, and
+go different lengths in their attacks on the present institutions of
+society. There are those of them called "agrarians," who contend that
+there should be a law passed to prohibit individuals holding beyond a
+certain quantity of ground; and that at given intervals of time there
+should be an equal division of property throughout the land. This is the
+most ultra, and least numerous class; the absurdity of whose doctrines
+must ultimately destroy them as a body. Various handbills and placards may
+be seen posted about the city, calling meetings of these unions. Some of
+those handbills are of a most extraordinary character indeed. I shall
+here insert a copy of one, which I took off a wall, and have now in my
+possession. It may serve to illustrate the character of those clubs.
+
+THE CAUSE OF THE POOR.
+
+The Mechanics and other working men of the city of New York, and
+of _these_ such and such only as live by their own useful
+industry, who wish to retain all political power in their own
+hands;
+
+WHO ARE IN FAVOUR OF                 AND WHO ARE OPPOSED TO
+
+A just compensation for labour,      Banks and Bankers,
+
+Abolishing imprisonment for debt,    Auctions and Auctioneers,
+
+An efficient lien law,               Monopolies and
+
+A general system of education;       Monopolists of all descriptions,
+  including food, clothing
+  and instruction, equal for all,    Brokers,
+  at the public expense, _without
+  separation of children from_       Lawyers, and
+  _parents,_
+                                     Rich men for office, and to all
+Exemption from sale by execution,      those, either rich or poor,
+  of mechanics' tools and              who favour them,
+  implements sufficiently
+  extensive to enable them to        Exemption of Property from
+  carry on business:                   Taxation:
+
+
+Are invited to assemble at the Wooster-street Military Hall, on
+Thursday evening next, 16th Sept., at eight o'clock, to select by
+Ballot, from among the persons proposed on the 6th Instant,
+Candidates for Governor, Lieutenant-Governor, Senator, and a New
+Committee of Fifty, and to propose Candidates for Register, for
+Members of Congress, and for Assembly.
+
+By order of the Committee of Fifty.
+
+JOHN R. SOPER, _Chairman_. JOHN TUTHILL, _Secretary_.
+
+So far for the "Workies;" and now for Miss Wright. If I understand this
+lady's principles correctly, they are strictly Epicurean. She contends,
+that mankind have nothing whatever to do with any but this tangible
+world;--that the sole and only legitimate pursuit of man, is terrestrial
+happiness;--that looking forward to an ideal state of existence, diverts
+his attention from the pleasures of this life--destroys all real sympathy
+towards his fellow-creatures, and renders him callous to their sufferings.
+However different the _theories_ of other systems may be, she contends
+that the _practice_ of the world, in all ages and generations, shews that
+this is the _effect_ of their inculcation. These are alarming doctrines;
+and when this lady made her _debut_ in public, the journals contended that
+their absurdity was too gross to be of any injury to society, and that in
+a few months, if she continued lecturing, it would be to empty benches.
+
+The editor of "The New York Courier and Enquirer" and she have been in
+constant enmity, and have never failed denouncing each other when
+opportunity offered. Miss Wright sailed from New York for France, where
+she still remains, in the month of July, 1830; and previous to her
+departure delivered an address, on which "the New York Enquirer" makes the
+following observations:--
+
+"The parting address of Miss Wright at the Bowery Theatre, on Wednesday
+evening, was a singular _melange_ of politics and impiety--eloquence and
+irreligion--bold invective, and electioneering slang. The theatre was very
+much crowded, probably three thousand persons being present; and what was
+the most surprising circumstance of the whole, is the fact, that about
+_one half of the audience were females--respectable females_.
+
+"When Fanny first made her appearance in this city as a lecturer on the
+'new order of things,' she was very little visited by respectable females.
+At her first lecture in the Park Theatre, about half a dozen appeared; but
+these soon left the house. From that period till the present, we had not
+heard her speak in public; but her doctrines, and opinions, and
+philosophy, appear to have made much greater progress in the city than we
+ever dreamt of. Her fervid eloquence--her fine action--her _soprano-toned_
+voice--her bold and daring attacks upon all the present systems of
+society--and particularly upon priests, politicians, bankers, and
+aristocrats as she calls them, have raised a party around her of
+considerable magnitude, and of much fervour and enthusiasm."
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+"The present state of things in this city is, to say the least of it,
+very singular. A bold and eloquent woman lays siege to the very
+foundations of society--inflames and excites the public mind--declaims
+with vehemence against every thing religious and orderly, and directs the
+whole of her movements to accomplish the election of a ticket next fall,
+under the title of the 'working-man's ticket.'[24] She avows that her
+object is a thorough and radical reform and change in every relation of
+life--even the dearest and most sacred. Father, mother, husband, wife,
+son, and daughter, in all their delicate and endearing relationships, are
+to be swept away equally with clergymen, churches, banks, parties, and
+benevolent societies. Hundreds and hundreds of respectable families, by
+frequenting her lectures, give countenance and currency to these startling
+principles and doctrines. Nearly the whole newspaper press of the city
+maintain a death-like silence, while the great Red Harlot of Infidelity is
+madly and triumphantly stalking over the city, under the mantle of
+'working-men,' and making _rapid progress_ in her work of ruin. If a
+solitary newspaper raise a word in favour of public virtue and private
+morals, in defence of the rights, liberties, and property of the
+community, it is denounced with open bitterness by some, and secretly
+stabbed at by them who wish to pass for good citizens. Miss Wright says
+she leaves the city soon. This is a mere _ruse_ to call her followers
+around her. The effect of her lectures is already boasted of by her
+followers. 'Two years ago,' say they,--'_twenty persons_ could scarcely be
+found in New York who would openly avow infidelity--now we have _twenty
+thousand_.--Is not that something?'
+
+"We say it is something--something that will make the whole city think."
+
+On the day of my departure for Europe, is was announced to the merchants
+of New York, that the West India ports were opened to American vessels.
+
+This is a heavy blow to the interests of the British colonies; and it does
+not appear that even Great Britain _herself_ has received any equivalent
+for inflicting so serious an injury on a portion of the empire by no means
+unimportant. The Canadians and Nova Scotians found a market for their
+surplus produce in the West Indies, for which they took in return the
+productions of these islands--thus a reciprocal advantage was derived to
+the sister colonies. But now, from the proximity of the West Indies to the
+Atlantic cities of the United States, American produce will be poured into
+these markets, for which, in return, little else than specie will be
+brought back to the ports of the Republic.
+
+It may be said, that an equivalent has been obtained by the removal of
+restrictions hitherto laid on British shipping. This I deny is any thing
+like an equivalent, as the trade with America is carried on almost
+exclusively in American bottoms. I particularly noted at New Orleans,
+Baltimore, Philadelphia, and New York, the paucity of British vessels in
+those ports; and ascertained that it was the practice among American
+merchants, who it must be observed are nearly all extensive ship-owners,
+to withhold cargos, even at some inconvenience, from foreign vessels, and
+await the arrival of those of their own country. I do not positively
+assert that the ships of _any other_ nation are preferred to those of
+England; but, as far as my personal observations on that point have gone,
+I am strongly inclined to think that such is the fact.
+
+The mercantile and shipping interests of Great Britain must continue to
+decline, if the government suffers itself continually to be cajoled into
+measures of this nature, and effects treaties the advantages of which
+appear to be all on one side, and in lieu of its concessions receives no
+just equivalent; unless a little empty praise for "liberal policy" and
+"generosity," can be so termed. I am well aware that it may have been of
+some small advantage to the West Indies to be enabled to obtain their
+supplies from the United States; but with reference to the policy of the
+measure, I speak only of the empire at large. Nearly all the Canadians
+with whom I conversed, freely acknowledged that they have not shaken off
+the yoke of England, only because they enjoyed some advantages by their
+connexion with her: but as these are diminished, the ties become loosened,
+and at length will be found too weak to hold them any longer. Disputes
+have already arisen between the people and the government relative to
+church lands, which appropriations they contend are unjust and dishonest.
+
+No doubt the question of tariff duties on the raw material imported into
+England, is one of great delicacy as connected with the manufacturing
+interests of the country; yet it does appear to me, that a small duty
+might without injury be imposed on American cottons _imported in American
+bottoms_. This would afford considerable encouragement to the shipping of
+Great Britain and her colonies, and could by no means be injurious to the
+manufacturing interests. The cottons of the Levant have been latterly
+increasing in quantity, and a measure of this nature would be likely to
+promote their further and rapid increase; which is desirable, as it would
+leave us less dependent on America, than we now are, for the raw material.
+The shipping of America is not held by the cotton-growing states; and
+although the nationality of the southerns is no doubt great, yet their
+love of self-interest is much greater, and would always preponderate in
+their choice of vessels. It would be even better, if found necessary, to
+make some arrangement in the shape of draw-back, than that a nation which
+has imposed a duty on our manufactured goods, almost amounting to a
+prohibition, should reap so much advantage from our system of "liberal and
+generous" policy. I shall conclude these _rambling_ sketches by
+observing, that there are two things eminently remarkable in America: the
+one is, that every American from the highest to the lowest, thinks the
+Republican form of government _the best;_ and the other, that the
+seditious and rebellious of all countries become there the most peaceable
+and contented citizens.
+
+We sailed from New York on the 1st of October, 1830. The monotony of a sea
+voyage, with unscientific people, is tiresome beyond description. The
+journal of a single day is the history of a month. You rise in the
+morning, and having performed the necessary ablutions, mount on
+deck,--"Well Captain, how does she head?"--"South-east by east"--(our
+course is east by south).--"Bad, bad, Captain--two points off." You then
+promenade the quarter-deck, until the black steward arrests your
+progress--grins in your face, and announces breakfast. Down you go, and
+fall foul of ham, beef, _pommes de terre frites_, jonny-cakes, and _cafe
+sans lait;_ and generally, in despite of bad cooking and occasional
+lee-lurches, contrive to eat an enormous meal. Breakfast being despatched,
+you again go on deck--promenade--gaze on the clouds--then read a little,
+if perchance you have books with you--lean over the gunwale, watching the
+waves and the motion of the vessel; but the eternal water, clouds, and
+sky--sky, clouds, and water, produce a listlessness that nothing can
+overcome. In the Atlantic, a ship in sight is an object which arouses the
+attention of all on board--to speak one is an aera, and furnishes to the
+captain and mates a subject for the day's conversation. Thus situated, an
+occasional spell of squally weather is by no means uninteresting:--the
+lowering aspect of the sky--the foaming surges, which come rolling on,
+threatening to overwhelm the tall ship, and bury her in the fathomless
+abyss of the ocean--the laugh of the gallant tars, when a sea sweeps the
+deck and drenches them to the skin--all these incidents, united, rather
+amuse the voyager, and tend to dispel the inanity with which he is
+afflicted. During these periods, I have been for hours watching the
+motions of the "stormy petrel" (_procellaria pelagica_), called by
+sailors, "mother Carey's chickens." These birds are seldom seen in calm
+weather, but appear to follow the gale, and when it blows most heavily
+they are seen in greatest numbers. The colour is brown and white; the size
+about that of the swallow, whose motions oh the wing they resemble. They
+skim over the surface of the roughest sea, gliding up and down the
+undulations with astonishing swiftness. When they observe their prey, they
+descend flutteringly, and place the feet and the tips of the wings on the
+surface of the water. In this position I have seen many of them rest for
+five or six seconds, until they had completed the capture. The petrel is
+to be seen in all parts of the Atlantic, no matter how distant from land;
+and the oldest seaman with whom I have conversed on the subject, never saw
+one of them rest. Humboldt says, that in the Northern Deserta, the
+petrels hide in rabbit burrows.
+
+A few days' sail brought us into the "Gulf stream," the influence of which
+is felt as high as the 43 deg. north latitude. We saw a considerable
+quantity of _fucus natans_, or gulf weed, but it generally was so far from
+the vessel, that I could not contrive to procure a sprig. Mr. Luccock, in
+his Notes on Brazil, says, that "if a nodule of this weed, taken fresh from
+the water at night, is hung up in a small cabin, it emits phosphorescent
+light enough to render objects visible." He describes the leaves of this
+plant as springing from the joints of the branches, oblong, indented at
+the edges, about an inch and a half long, and a quarter of an inch broad.
+Humboldt's description is somewhat different: he calls it the "vine-leaved
+fucus;" says, "the leaves are circular, of a _tender_ green, and indented
+at the edges, stem brown, and three inches long."--What I saw of this
+weed rather agrees with that described by Humboldt--the leaves were
+shaped like the vine leaf, and of a rusty-green colour. That portion of
+the Atlantic between the 22d and 34th parallels of latitude, and 26th and
+58th meridians of longitude, is generally covered with fuci, and is termed
+by the Portuguese, _mar do sargasso_, or grassy sea. It was supposed by
+many, from the large quantities of this weed seen in the Gulf stream, that
+it grew on the Florida rocks, and by the influence and extension of the
+current, was detached and carried into this part of the Atlantic. However,
+this position is not tenable, as a single branch of fucus has never been
+found on the Florida reef. Humboldt, and other scientific men, are of
+opinion that this weed vegetates at the bottom of the ocean--that being
+detached from its root, it rises to the surface; and that such portion of
+it as is found in the stream, is drawn thither by the sweeping of the
+current along the edge of the weedy sea. Moreover, the fuci that are
+found in the northern extremity of the Florida stream are generally
+decayed, while those which are seen in the southern extremity appear quite
+fresh--this difference would not exist if they emanated from the Gulf.
+
+We stood to the north of the Azores, with rather unfavourable winds, and
+at length came between the coast of Africa and Cape St. Vincent. Here we
+had a dead calm for four entire days. The sky was perfectly cloudless, and
+the surface of the ocean was like oil. Not being able to do better, we got
+out the boat and went turtle fishing, or rather catching, in company with
+a very fine shark, which thought proper to attend us during our excursion.
+In such weather the turtles come to the surface of the water to sleep and
+enjoy the solar heat, and if you can approach without waking them, they
+fall an easy prey, being rendered incapable of resistance by their shelly
+armour. We took six. Attached to the breast of one was a remora, or
+"sucking fish." The length of this animal is from six to eight
+inches--colour blackish--body, scaleless and oily--head rather flat, on
+the back of which is the sucker, which consists of a narrow oval-shaped
+margin with several transverse projections, and ten curved rays extending
+towards the centre, but not meeting. The Indians of Jamaica and Cuba
+employed this fish as falconers do hawks. In calm weather, they carried
+out those which they had kept and fed for the purpose, in their canoes,
+and when they had got to a sufficient distance, attached the remora to the
+head of the canoe by a strong line of considerable length. When the remora
+perceives a fish, which he can do at a considerable distance, he darts
+away with astonishing rapidity, and fastens upon it. The Indian lets go
+the line, to which a buoy is attached to mark the course the remora has
+taken, and follows in his canoe until he thinks the game is exhausted; he
+then draws it gradually in, the remora still adhering to his prey. Oviedo
+says, "I have known a turtle caught by this method, of a bulk and weight
+which no single man could support."
+
+For four days we were anxiously watching for some indications of a breeze,
+but were so frequently deceived with "cat's paws," and the occasional
+slight flickering of the dog vane, that we sank into listless resignation.
+At length our canvass filled, and we soon came within sight of the Straits
+of Gibraltar. On our left was the coast of Spain, with its vineyards and
+white villages; and on our right lay the sterile hills of Barbary.
+Opposite Cape Trafalgar is Cape Spartel, a bold promontory, on the west
+side of which is a range of basaltic pillars. The entrance to the
+Mediterranean by the Straits, when the wind is unfavourable, is extremely
+difficult; but to pass out is almost impossible, the current continually
+setting in through the centre of the passage. Hence, onwards, the sail was
+extremely pleasant, being within sight of the Spanish coast, and the
+Islands of Yvica, Majorca, and Minorca, successively, until we reached
+the Gulf of Lyons. When the northerly wind blows, which, in Provence, is
+termed the _mistral_, the waves roll against the coast of Provence, and
+the recoil produces that ugly chopping sea for which this gulf is
+renowned. In the Mediterranean, even in the calmest weather, a light
+pleasant breeze springs up after sunset; this and the cloudless sky, and
+unobscured brilliancy of the stars, are attractions sufficient to allure
+the most somnolent and unromantic mortal to remain on deck.
+
+The molusca, or oceanic insect, which emits a phosphorescent light,
+appeared here in vast quantities, which induced me to try experiments. I
+took a piece of black crape, and having folded it several times, poured
+some sea water taken fresh in a bucket, upon it: the water in the bucket,
+when agitated by the hand, gave out sparkling light. When the crape was
+thoroughly saturated with water, I took it to a dark part of the cabin,
+when it seemed to be studded with small sparkling stars; but more of the
+animals I could not then discern. Next day I put some water in a glass
+tumbler, and having exposed it to a strong solar light, with the help of a
+magnifying glass was enabled distinctly to discern the moluscae. When
+magnified, they appeared about the size of a pin's head, of a yellowish
+brown colour, rather oval-shaped, and having tentaculae. The medusa is a
+genus of molusca; and I think M. le Seur told me he reckons forty-three or
+forty-four species of that genus.
+
+We crossed the Gulf of Lyons, and came within the road of Marseilles,
+where we were taken charge of by a pilot. When we reached the mouth of the
+basin, a boat came alongside of us, and a man handed up a piece of wood,
+and said, "Mettez sur cela le nom du capitaine et du batiment;"--we were
+to perform quarantine. Whoever has performed quarantine can commiserate
+our condition. No one can quit the quarantine ground, or rather the space
+in the harbour alloted to vessels performing quarantine. If it be
+necessary to send any papers from the ship on shore, they are taken with a
+forceps and plunged into vinegar. If the sails of any other vessel touch
+those of one in quarantine, she too must undergo several days' probation.
+Our time was five days; but as we had clean bills of health, and had lost
+none of our crew on the passage, we were allowed to count the day of our
+entering and the day of our going out of quarantine. The usual ceremonies
+being performed, I again stepped on European ground, and felt myself at
+home.
+
+FOOTNOTES:
+
+[24] The "Education ticket," that of the "workies," carried every thing
+before it in New York and the adjoining states, at the election of
+members of congress, &c.
+
+
+
+
+APPENDIX.
+
+
+
+NEW CENSUS OF THE UNITED STATES.
+
+An abstract of a "careful revision of the enumeration of the United States
+for the years 1790, 1800, 1810, 1820, and 1830," compiled at the
+Department of State, agreeably to law; and an ABSTRACT from the Aggregate
+Returns of the several Marshals of the United States of the "Fifth
+Census."
+
+STATES.             1790.     1800.     1810.     1820.      1830.
+Maine              96,540   151,719   228,705   298,335    399,463
+New Hampshire     141,899   183,762   214,360   244,161    269,533
+Massachusetts     378,717   423,243   472,040   523,287    610,014
+Rhode Island       69,110    69,122    77,031    83,059     97,210
+Connecticut       258,141   231,002   262,042   275,202    297,011
+Vermont            85,416   154,465   217,713   233,764    280,679
+New York          340,120   586,756   959,049 1,372,812  1,913,508
+New Jersey        184,139   211,949   245,555   277,575    320,778
+Pennsylvania      434,373   602,365   810,091 1,049,458  1,347,672
+Delaware           59,096    64,273    72,674    72,749     76,739
+Maryland          319,728   341,548   380,546   407,350    446,913
+D. Columbia           --     14,093    24,023    33,039     39,588
+Virginia          748,308   880,200   974,622 1,065,379  1,211,266
+N. Carolina       393,751   478,103   555,500   638,829    738,470
+S. Carolina       249,073   345,591   415,115   502,741    581,458
+Georgia            82,548   162,101   252,433   340,987    516,504
+Kentucky           73,077   220,955   406,511   564,317    688,844
+Tennessee          35,791   105,602   231,727   422,813    684,822
+Ohio                  --     45,365   230,760   581,434    937,679
+Indiana               --      4,875    24,520   147,178    341,582
+Mississippi           --      8,850    40,352    75,448    136,806
+Illinois              --        --     12,233    55,211    157,575
+Louisiana             --        --     76,556   153,407    215,791
+Missouri              --        --     20,845    66,586    140,084
+Alabama               --        --        --    127,902    309,206
+Michigan              --        --      4,762     8,896     31,123
+Arkansas              --        --        --     14,273     30,383
+Florida               --        --        --        --      34,725
+                3,929,827 5,305,925 7,289,314 9,638,131 12,856,437
+
+
+INCREASE FROM 1820 TO 1830.
+
+
+                   Per Cent.                       Per Cent.
+Maine                 33,398         S. Carolina      15,657
+N. Hampshire          10,391         Georgia          51,472
+Massachusetts         16,575         Kentucky         22,066
+Rhode Island          17,157         Tennessee        62,044
+Connecticut            8,151         Ohio             61,998
+Vermont               19,005         Indiana         132,087
+New York              39,386         Mississippi      81,032
+New Jersey            15,564         Illinois        185,406
+Pennsylvania          25,416         Louisiana        40,665
+Delaware               5,487         Missouri        110,380
+Maryland               9,712         Alabama         141,574
+D. Columbia           20,639         Michigan        250,001
+Virginia              13,069         Arkansas        113,273
+N. Carolina           15,592         Florida              --
+          Average                       32,392
+
+
+
+
+EXTRACTS
+
+FROM
+
+"THE CHEROKEE PHOENIX,"
+
+OF JULY 31, 1830.
+
+_The following is part of a Letter written by a Creek Chief, from the
+Arkansas territory._
+
+"The son of General M'Intosh, (an Indian chief), with the M'Intosh party,
+held a treaty with the government, and were induced, by promises, to
+remove to Arkansas. They were promised 'a home for ever,' if they would
+select one, and that bounds should be marked off to them. This has not
+been done. They were assured that they should draw a proportionate part of
+the annuity due to the Creek nation every year. They have planted corn
+three seasons--yet they have never drawn one cent of any annuity due to
+them! Why is this? They were promised blankets, guns, ammunition, traps,
+kettles, and a _wheelwright_. They have drawn some few of each class of
+articles, and only a few--they have no wheelwright. They were poor;--but
+above this, they were promised pay for the improvements abandoned by them
+in the old nation. This they have not received. They were further assured
+that they should receive, upon their arrival on Arkansas, _thirty dollars_
+per head for each emigrant. This they have not received. But the acting
+sub-agent, in the spring 1829, finding their wants very pressing (indeed
+many of them were in a famishing condition), gave to each one his due
+bill, in the name of the agent, for the amount of bounty due them, and
+took their receipts for the amount, as vouchers for the agent, to settle
+his account by with the government. The consequence was, that the Indians,
+not regarding paper as of any real value, would go to the traders, and
+sell the due bills at what they could get for them. And the traders having
+no confidence in the promises of the government through its agents, united
+with the hazard of delay at all events, would not give the real value of
+the amount promised by the due bills. If the Indians attempted to trade
+them to the whites for cattle, or any thing which they stood in need of,
+the consequence was, that they were compelled to make a discount upon
+them. Not finding them worth as many dollars as they purported to be for,
+they were willing to let them go upon any terms, rather than keep them in
+their possession. The due bills amounted, in all, to about _twenty-one
+thousand dollars_, which due bills are now in the hands of the original
+holders, or the purchasers, but not lifted by the agent according to his
+promise. (Is not the government bound by the acts of its agent or
+attorney?). It is but fair to estimate the loss of the Indians at one
+third of the sum above stated, and this loss owing entirely to the
+government, by its agent's withholding the fulfilment of its contract with
+the M'Intosh party.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+"Mr. Joseph Brearly was left here by his father, the agent, in charge of
+his affairs, and being apprised of a party of _emigrants_ about to arrive,
+was making preparations to obtain the provisions necessary to subsist them
+for one year; and for that purpose had advertised to supply six thousand
+bushels of corn. The day came for closing the contract, when Colonel
+Arbuckle, commanding Cantonment Gibson, handed in a bid, in the name of
+the Creek nation, to furnish the amount of corn required at _one dollar
+and twelve cents_ per bushel; the next lowest bid to his was _one dollar
+and fifty cents_; so that Colonel Arbuckle saved the government 2,280
+dollars.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+"Mr. Blake, the sub-agent sent by Colonel Crowell, had superseded Mr.
+Brearly, and was engaged in giving his receipts for the corn delivered
+under the contract. A speculation was presented; and as the poor Indians
+were to be the victims of rapacity, why, it was all very well. The
+aforesaid Major Love, to secure the speculation, repaired to St. Louis,
+with _letters of credit_ from Mr. Blake, the sub-agent of Colonel Crowell,
+and purchased several thousand dollars' worth of merchandize, and so soon
+as he could reach the Creek agency, commenced purchasing the corn receipts
+issued by the sub-agent. It is reasonable to suppose that the goods were
+sold, on an average, at two hundred per centum above cost and carriage;
+and by this means the Indians would get about one third of the value of
+their corn at the contract price!--they offered to let the receipts go at
+twenty-five per cent. discount, if they could only obtain cash for them.
+
+"The United States owe the Creeks money--they have paid them none in three
+years--the money has been appropriated by congress. It is withheld by the
+agents. The Indians are destitute of almost every comfort for the want of
+what is due to them. If it is longer withheld from them, it can only be
+so, upon the grounds that the poor Indian, who is unable to compel the
+United States to a compliance with solemn treaties, must linger out a
+miserable degraded existence, while those who have power to extend to him
+the measure of justice, will be left in the _full_ possession of _all_ the
+_complacency_ arising from the solemn _assurance_, that they are either
+the _stupid_ or _guilty_ authors of his degradation and misery.
+
+"TAH-LOHN-TUS-KY.
+
+"P.S. The Creeks have sent frequent memorials, praying relief from the War
+Department; also a delegation, but can obtain no relief!!"
+
+
+
+
+_Extract from a Communication made by a Cherokee Chief._
+
+
+"A company of whites was in this neighbourhood, with forged notes and
+false accounts to a very considerable amount upon the Indians, and
+forcibly drove off the property of several families. This, Sir, is the
+cause of our misery, poverty, and degradation, for which we have been so
+much reproached. This is what makes us _poor devils_. If we fail to make
+good crops, some of the white neighbours must starve, for many of them are
+dependent upon us for support, either by fair or foul means. Some of the
+poor creatures are now travelling among us, almost starved, begging for
+something to eat--they are actually worse than Indians. If they can't get
+by begging, they steal. To make us clear of these evils, and make us happy
+for ever, the unabating avarice of some of the Georgians, by their
+repeated acts of cruelty, point us to homes in the west--but as long as we
+have a pony or a hog to spare them, we will never go, and not then. This
+land is heaven's gift to us--it is the birthright of our fathers: as long
+as these mountains lift their lofty summits to heaven, and these beautiful
+rivers roll their tides to the mighty ocean, so long we will remain. May
+heaven pity and save our distressed country!
+
+"VALLEY TOWNS."
+
+
+The following Extracts may serve to show the state of the country to which
+the Indians are compelled to emigrate:
+
+[FROM THE KENTUCKY INTELLIGENCER.]
+
+_Extract of a Letter, dated Prairie du Chien._
+
+"January 15, 1830.
+
+"There is a prospect, I think, that the Indian department in this part of
+the country will soon require efficient officers. There is little doubt
+that there will be a general and sanguinary war among the Indians in the
+spring. The outrages of the Sauks and Foxes, can be endured no longer.
+Within a short time, they have cut off the head of a young Munomonee
+Indian, at the mouth of Winconscin river--killed a Winnebago woman and
+boy, of the family of Dekaree, and a Sioux called Dixon. The whole Sioux
+nation have made arrangements for a general and simultaneous attack on the
+Foxes; the Winnebagoes, and probably the Munomonees will join them."
+
+
+"Little Rock, Ark. Ter. Feb. 5.
+
+"_Murderous Battle._--A gentleman who arrived here yesterday, direct from
+the Western Creek agency, informs us that a war party of Osages returned
+just before he left the agency, from a successful expedition against the
+Pawnee Indians. He was informed by one of the chiefs, that the party
+seized a Pawnee village, high up on the Arkansas, and had surrounded it
+before the inmates were apprised of their approach. At first the Pawnees
+showed a disposition to resist; but finding themselves greatly outnumbered
+by their assailants, soon sallied forth from their village, and took
+refuge on the margin of a lake, where they again made a stand. Here they
+were again hemmed in by the Osages, who throwing away their guns, fell
+upon them with their knives and tomahawks, and did not cease the work of
+butchery as long as any remained to resist them. Not one escaped. All were
+slain, save a few who were taken prisoners, and who are perhaps destined
+to suffer a more cruel death than those who were butchered on the spot.
+Our informant did not learn what number of Pawnees were killed, but
+understood that the Osages brought in sixty or seventy scalps, besides
+several prisoners.
+
+"We also learn, that the Osages are so much elated with this victory, that
+another war party were preparing to go on an expedition against some
+Choctaws who reside on Red river, with whom they have been at variance for
+some time past."
+
+
+_Extract of a Letter from an Officer of the Army, dated Prairie du Chien._
+
+[FROM THE NEW YORK COM. ADVERTIZER.]
+
+"May 6, 1830.
+
+"_Indian Hostilities._--When coming down the Mississippi, on the raft of
+timber, a war party of Sioux came to me and landed on the raft, but did
+not offer any violence. They were seventy strong, and well armed; and when
+they arrived at the Prairie, they were joined by thirty Menominees, and
+then proceeded down the river in pursuit of the Sauks and Foxes, who lay
+below. This morning they all returned, and reported that they had killed
+ten of the Foxes and two squaws. I saw all the scalps and other trophies
+which they had taken; such as canoes, tomahawks, knives, guns, war clubs,
+spears, &c. A paddle was raised by them in the air, on which was strung
+the head of a squaw and the scalps. They killed the head chief of the Fox
+nation, and took from them all the treaties which the nation had made
+since 1815. I saw them, and read such as I wished. One Sioux killed, and
+three wounded, was all the loss of the northern party. The Winnebagoes
+have joined with the Sioux and Menominees, and the Potawatomies have
+joined with the Sauks and Foxes. We shall have a great battle in a day or
+two."
+
+
+
+***END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK A RAMBLE OF SIX THOUSAND MILES
+THROUGH THE UNITED STATES OF AMERICA***
+
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