diff options
| author | Roger Frank <rfrank@pglaf.org> | 2025-10-15 05:16:34 -0700 |
|---|---|---|
| committer | Roger Frank <rfrank@pglaf.org> | 2025-10-15 05:16:34 -0700 |
| commit | ff2580683b238bebe42c7d656decd9ba174b7213 (patch) | |
| tree | 11daad60dee5532c1afcc704bcfe551ef63019a4 | |
| -rw-r--r-- | .gitattributes | 3 | ||||
| -rw-r--r-- | 1148-0.txt | 5687 | ||||
| -rw-r--r-- | 1148-0.zip | bin | 0 -> 133409 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 1148-h.zip | bin | 0 -> 142985 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 1148-h/1148-h.htm | 7007 | ||||
| -rw-r--r-- | LICENSE.txt | 11 | ||||
| -rw-r--r-- | README.md | 2 | ||||
| -rw-r--r-- | old/itwls10.txt | 5969 | ||||
| -rw-r--r-- | old/itwls10.zip | bin | 0 -> 129318 bytes |
9 files changed, 18679 insertions, 0 deletions
diff --git a/.gitattributes b/.gitattributes new file mode 100644 index 0000000..6833f05 --- /dev/null +++ b/.gitattributes @@ -0,0 +1,3 @@ +* text=auto +*.txt text +*.md text diff --git a/1148-0.txt b/1148-0.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..77ea9cb --- /dev/null +++ b/1148-0.txt @@ -0,0 +1,5687 @@ +The Project Gutenberg eBook, The Itinerary of Archbishop Baldwin through +Wales, by Giraldus Cambrensis + + +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere in the United States and most +other parts of the world at no cost and with almost no restrictions +whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms of +the Project Gutenberg License included with this eBook or online at +www.gutenberg.org. If you are not located in the United States, you'll have +to check the laws of the country where you are located before using this ebook. + + + + +Title: The Itinerary of Archbishop Baldwin through Wales + + +Author: Giraldus Cambrensis + + + +Release Date: February 9, 2015 [eBook #1148] +[This file was first posted on December 14, 1997] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: UTF-8 + + +***START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE ITINERARY OF ARCHIBISHOP +BALDWIN THROUGH WALES*** + + +Transcribed from the 1912 J. M. Dent and Sons edition by David Price, +email ccx074@pglaf.org + + + + + + THE ITINERARY OF ARCHBISHOP BALDWIN THROUGH WALES + by + Giraldus Cambrensis + + +INTRODUCTION + + +GERALD THE WELSHMAN—Giraldus Cambrensis—was born, probably in 1147, at +Manorbier Castle in the county of Pembroke. His father was a Norman +noble, William de Barri, who took his name from the little island of +Barry off the coast of Glamorgan. His mother, Angharad, was the daughter +of Gerald de Windsor {0a} by his wife, the famous Princess Nesta, the +“Helen of Wales,” and the daughter of Rhys ap Tewdwr Mawr, the last +independent Prince of South Wales. + +Gerald was therefore born to romance and adventure. He was reared in the +traditions of the House of Dinevor. He heard the brilliant and pitiful +stories of Rhys ap Tewdwr, who, after having lost and won South Wales, +died on the stricken field fighting against the Normans, an old man of +over fourscore years; and of his gallant son, Prince Rhys, who, after +wrenching his patrimony from the invaders, died of a broken heart a few +months after his wife, the Princess Gwenllian, had fallen in a skirmish +at Kidwelly. No doubt he heard, though he makes but sparing allusion to +them, of the loves and adventures of his grandmother, the Princess Nesta, +the daughter and sister of a prince, the wife of an adventurer, the +concubine of a king, and the paramour of every daring lover—a Welshwoman +whose passions embroiled all Wales, and England too, in war, and the +mother of heroes—Fitz-Geralds, Fitz-Stephens, and Fitz-Henries, and +others—who, regardless of their mother’s eccentricity in the choice of +their fathers, united like brothers in the most adventurous undertaking +of that age, the Conquest of Ireland. + +Though his mother was half Saxon and his father probably fully Norman, +Gerald, with a true instinct, described himself as a “Welshman.” His +frank vanity, so naïve as to be void of offence, his easy acceptance of +everything which Providence had bestowed on him, his incorrigible belief +that all the world took as much interest in himself and all that appealed +to him as he did himself, the readiness with which he adapted himself to +all sorts of men and of circumstances, his credulity in matters of faith +and his shrewd common sense in things of the world, his wit and lively +fancy, his eloquence of tongue and pen, his acute rather than accurate +observation, his scholarship elegant rather than profound, are all +characteristic of a certain lovable type of South Walian. He was not +blind to the defects of his countrymen any more than to others of his +contemporaries, but the Welsh he chastised as one who loved them. His +praise followed ever close upon the heels of his criticism. There was +none of the rancour in his references to Wales which defaces his account +of contemporary Ireland. He was acquainted with Welsh, though he does +not seem to have preached it, and another archdeacon acted as the +interpreter of Archbishop Baldwin’s Crusade sermon in Anglesea. But he +could appreciate the charm of the _Cynghanedd_, the alliterative +assonance which is still the most distinctive feature of Welsh poetry. +He cannot conceal his sympathy with the imperishable determination of his +countrymen to keep alive the language which is their _differentia_ among +the nations of the world. It is manifest in the story which he relates +at the end of his “Description of Wales.” Henry II. asked an old +Welshman of Pencader in Carmarthenshire if the Welsh could resist his +might. “This nation, O King,” was the reply, “may often be weakened and +in great part destroyed by the power of yourself and of others, but many +a time, as it deserves, it will rise triumphant. But never will it be +destroyed by the wrath of man, unless the wrath of God be added. Nor do +I think that any other nation than this of Wales, or any other tongue, +whatever may hereafter come to pass, shall on the day of the great +reckoning before the Most High Judge, answer for this corner of the +earth.” Prone to discuss with his “Britannic frankness” the faults of +his countrymen, he cannot bear that any one else should do so. In the +“Description of Wales” he breaks off in the middle of a most unflattering +passage concerning the character of the Welsh people to lecture Gildas +for having abused his own countrymen. In the preface to his “Instruction +of Princes,” he makes a bitter reference to the prejudice of the English +Court against everything Welsh—“Can any good thing come from Wales?” His +fierce Welshmanship is perhaps responsible for the unsympathetic +treatment which he has usually received at the hands of English +historians. Even to one of the writers of Dr. Traill’s “Social England,” +Gerald was little more than “a strong and passionate Welshman.” + +Sometimes it was his pleasure to pose as a citizen of the world. He +loved Paris, the centre of learning, where he studied as a youth, and +where he lectured in his early manhood. He paid four long visits to +Rome. He was Court chaplain to Henry II. He accompanied the king on his +expeditions to France, and Prince John to Ireland. He retired, when old +age grew upon him, to the scholarly seclusion of Lincoln, far from his +native land. He was the friend and companion of princes and kings, of +scholars and prelates everywhere in England, in France, and in Italy. +And yet there was no place in the world so dear to him as Manorbier. Who +can read his vivid description of the old castle by the sea—its ramparts +blown upon by the winds that swept over the Irish Sea, its fishponds, its +garden, and its lofty nut trees—without feeling that here, after all, was +the home of Gerald de Barri? “As Demetia,” he said in his “Itinerary,” +“with its seven cantreds is the fairest of all the lands of Wales, as +Pembroke is the fairest part of Demetia, and this spot the fairest of +Pembroke, it follows that Manorbier is the sweetest spot in Wales.” He +has left us a charming account of his boyhood, playing with his brothers +on the sands, they building castles and he cathedrals, he earning the +title of “boy bishop” by preaching while they engaged in boyish sport. +On his last recorded visit to Wales, a broken man, hunted like a criminal +by the king, and deserted by the ingrate canons of St. David’s, he +retired for a brief respite from strife to the sweet peace of Manorbier. +It is not known where he died, but it is permissible to hope that he +breathed his last in the old home which he never forgot or ceased to +love. + +He mentions that the Welsh loved high descent and carried their pedigree +about with them. In this respect also Gerald was Welsh to the core. He +is never more pleased than when he alludes to his relationship with the +Princes of Wales, or the Geraldines, or Cadwallon ap Madoc of Powis. He +hints, not obscurely, that the real reason why he was passed over for the +Bishopric of St. David’s in 1186 was that Henry II. feared his _natio et +cognatio_, his nation and his family. He becomes almost dithyrambic in +extolling the deeds of his kinsmen in Ireland. “Who are they who +penetrated into the fastnesses of the enemy? The Geraldines. Who are +they who hold the country in submission? The Geraldines. Who are they +whom the foemen dread? The Geraldines. Who are they whom envy would +disparage? The Geraldines. Yet fight on, my gallant kinsmen, + + “Felices facti si quid mea carmina possuit.” + +Gerald was satisfied, not only with his birthplace and lineage, but with +everything that was his. He makes complacent references to his good +looks, which he had inherited from Princess Nesta. “Is it possible so +fair a youth can die?” asked Bishop, afterwards Archbishop, Baldwin, when +he saw him in his student days. {0b} Even in his letters to Pope +Innocent he could not refrain from repeating a compliment paid to him on +his good looks by Matilda of St. Valery, the wife of his neighbour at +Brecon, William de Braose. He praises his own unparalleled generosity in +entertaining the poor, the doctors, and the townsfolk of Oxford to +banquets on three successive days when he read his “Topography of +Ireland” before that university. As for his learning he records that +when his tutors at Paris wished to point out a model scholar they +mentioned Giraldus Cambrensis. He is confident that though his works, +being all written in Latin, have not attained any great contemporary +popularity, they will make his name and fame secure for ever. The most +precious gift he could give to Pope Innocent III., when he was anxious to +win his favour, was six volumes of his own works; and when good old +Archbishop Baldwin came to preach the Crusade in Wales, Gerald could +think of no better present to help beguile the tedium of the journey than +his own “Topography of Ireland.” He is equally pleased with his own +eloquence. When the archbishop had preached, with no effect, for an +hour, and exclaimed what a hardhearted people it was, Gerald moved them +almost instantly to tears. He records also that John Spang, the Lord +Rhys’s fool, said to his master at Cardigan, after Gerald had been +preaching the Crusade, “You owe a great debt, O Rhys, to your kinsman, +the archdeacon, who has taken a hundred or so of your men to serve the +Lord; for if he had only spoken in Welsh, you would not have had a soul +left.” His works are full of appreciations of Gerald’s reforming zeal, +his administrative energy, his unostentatious and scholarly life. + +Professor Freeman in his “Norman Conquest” described Gerald as “the +father of comparative philology,” and in the preface to his edition of +the last volume of Gerald’s works in the Rolls Series, he calls him “one +of the most learned men of a learned age,” “the universal scholar.” His +range of subjects is indeed marvellous even for an age when to be a +“universal scholar” was not so hopeless of attainment as it has since +become. Professor Brewer, his earliest editor in the Rolls Series, is +struck by the same characteristic. “Geography, history, ethics, +divinity, canon law, biography, natural history, epistolary +correspondence, and poetry employed his pen by turns, and in all these +departments of literature he has left memorials of his ability.” Without +being Ciceronian, his Latin was far better than that of his +contemporaries. He was steeped in the classics, and he had, as Professor +Freeman remarks, “mastered more languages than most men of his time, and +had looked at them with an approach to a scientific view which still +fewer men of his time shared with him.” He quotes Welsh, English, Irish, +French, German, Hebrew, Latin, and Greek, and with four or five of these +languages at least he had an intimate, scholarly acquaintance. His +judgment of men and things may not always have been sound, but he was a +shrewd observer of contemporary events. “The cleverest critic of the +life of his time” is the verdict of Mr. Reginald Poole. {0c} He changed +his opinions often: he was never ashamed of being inconsistent. In early +life he was, perhaps naturally, an admirer of the Angevin dynasty; he +lived to draw the most terrible picture extant of their lives and +characters. During his lifetime he never ceased to inveigh against +Archbishop Hubert Walter; after his death he repented and recanted. His +invective was sometimes coarse, and his abuse was always virulent. He +was not over-scrupulous in his methods of controversy; but no one can +rise from a reading of his works without a feeling of liking for the +vivacious, cultured, impulsive, humorous, irrepressible Welshman. +Certainly no Welshman can regard the man who wrote so lovingly of his +native land, and who championed her cause so valiantly, except with real +gratitude and affection. + +But though it is as a writer of books that Gerald has become famous, he +was a man of action, who would have left, had Fate been kinder, an +enduring mark on the history of his own time, and would certainly have +changed the whole current of Welsh religious life. As a descendant of +the Welsh princes, he took himself seriously as a Welsh patriot. +Destined almost from his cradle, both by the bent of his mind and the +inclination of his father, to don “the habit of religion,” he could not +join Prince Rhys or Prince Llewelyn in their struggle for the political +independence of Wales. His ambition was to become Bishop of St. David’s, +and then to restore the Welsh Church to her old position of independence +of the metropolitan authority of Canterbury. He detested the practice of +promoting Normans to Welsh sees, and of excluding Welshmen from high +positions in their own country. “Because I am a Welshman, am I to be +debarred from all preferment in Wales?” he indignantly writes to the +Pope. Circumstances at first seemed to favour his ambition. His uncle, +David Fitz-Gerald, sat in the seat of St. David’s. When the young +scholar returned from Paris in 1172, he found the path of promotion easy. +After the manner of that age—which Gerald lived to denounce—he soon +became a pluralist. He held the livings of Llanwnda, Tenby, and Angle, +and afterwards the prebend of Mathry, in Pembrokeshire, and the living of +Chesterton in Oxfordshire. He was also prebendary of Hereford, canon of +St. David’s, and in 1175, when only twenty-eight years of age, he became +Archdeacon of Brecon. In the following year Bishop David died, and +Gerald, together with the other archdeacons of the diocese, was nominated +by the chapter for the king’s choice. But the chapter had been +premature, urged, no doubt, by the impetuous young Archdeacon of Brecon. +They had not waited for the king’s consent to the nomination. The king +saw that his settled policy in Wales would be overturned if Gerald became +Bishop of St. David’s. Gerald’s cousin, the Lord Rhys, had been +appointed the king’s justiciar in South Wales. The power of the Lord +Marches was to be kept in check by a quasi-alliance between the Welsh +prince and his over-lord. The election of Gerald to the greatest see in +Wales would upset the balance of power. David Fitz-Gerald, good easy man +(_vir suâ sorte contentus_ is Gerald’s description of him), the king +could tolerate, but he could not contemplate without uneasiness the +combination of spiritual and political power in South Wales in the hands +of two able, ambitious, and energetic kinsmen, such as he knew Gerald and +the Lord Rhys to be. Gerald had made no secret of his admiration for the +martyred St. Thomas à Becket. He fashioned himself upon him as Becket +did on Anselm. The part which Becket played in England he would like to +play in Wales. But the sovereign who had destroyed Becket was not to be +frightened by the canons of St. David’s and the Archdeacon of Brecon. He +summoned the chapter to Westminster, and compelled them in his presence +to elect Peter de Leia, the Prior of Wenlock, who erected for himself an +imperishable monument in the noble cathedral which looks as if it had +sprung up from the rocks which guard the city of Dewi Sant from the +inrush of the western sea. + +It is needless to recount the many activities in which Gerald engaged +during the next twenty-two years. They have been recounted with humorous +and affectionate appreciation by Dr. Henry Owen in his monograph on +“Gerald the Welshman,” a little masterpiece of biography which deserves +to be better known. {0d} In 1183 Gerald was employed by the astute king +to settle terms between him and the rebellious Lord Rhys. Nominally as a +reward for his successful diplomacy, but probably in order to keep so +dangerous a character away from the turbulent land of Wales, Gerald was +in the following year made a Court chaplain. In 1185 he was commissioned +by the king to accompany Prince John, then a lad of eighteen, who had +lately been created “Lord of Ireland,” to the city of Dublin. There he +abode for two years, collecting materials for his two first books, the +“Topography” and the “Conquest of Ireland.” In 1188 he accompanied +Archbishop Baldwin through Wales to preach the Third Crusade—not the +first or the last inconsistency of which the champion of the independence +of the Welsh Church was guilty. His “Itinerary through Wales” is the +record of the expedition. King Richard offered him the Bishopric of +Bangor, and John, in his brother’s absence, offered him that of Llandaff. +But his heart was set on St. David’s. In 1198 his great chance came to +him. At last, after twenty-two years of misrule, Peter de Leia was dead, +and Gerald seemed certain of attaining his heart’s desire. Once again +the chapter nominated Gerald; once more the royal authority was exerted, +this time by Archbishop Hubert, the justiciar in the king’s absence, to +defeat the ambitious Welshman. The chapter decided to send a deputation +to King Richard in Normandy. The deputation arrived at Chinon to find +Coeur-de-Lion dead; but John was anxious to make friends everywhere, in +order to secure himself on his uncertain throne. He received the +deputation graciously, he spoke in praise of Gerald, and he agreed to +accept the nomination. But after his return to England John changed his +mind. He found that no danger threatened him in his island kingdom, and +he saw the wisdom of the justiciar’s policy. Gerald hurried to see him, +but John point blank refused publicly to ratify his consent to the +nomination which he had already given in private. Then commenced the +historic fight for St. David’s which, in view of the still active “Church +question” in Wales, is even now invested with a living interest and +significance. Gerald contended that the Welsh Church was independent of +Canterbury, and that it was only recently, since the Norman Conquest, +that she had been deprived of her freedom. His opponents relied on +political, rather than historical, considerations to defeat this bold +claim. King Henry, when a deputation from the chapter in 1175 appeared +before the great council in London and had urged the metropolitan claims +of St. David’s upon the Cardinal Legate, exclaimed that he had no +intention of giving this head to rebellion in Wales. Archbishop Hubert, +more of a statesman than an ecclesiastic, based his opposition on similar +grounds. He explained his reasons bluntly to the Pope. “Unless the +barbarity of this fierce and lawless people can be restrained by +ecclesiastical censures through the see of Canterbury, to which province +they are subject by law, they will be for ever rising in arms against the +king, to the disquiet of the whole realm of England.” Gerald’s answer to +this was complete, except from the point of view of political expediency. +“What can be more unjust than that this people of ancient faith, because +they answer force by force in defence of their lives, their lands, and +their liberties, should be forthwith separated from the body corporate of +Christendom, and delivered over to Satan?” + +The story of the long fight between Gerald on the one hand and the whole +forces of secular and ecclesiastical authority on the other cannot be +told here. Three times did he visit Rome to prosecute his appeal—alone +against the world. He had to journey through districts disturbed by +wars, infested with the king’s men or the king’s enemies, all of whom +regarded Gerald with hostility. He was taken and thrown into prison as +King John’s subject in one town, he was detained by importunate creditors +in another, and at Rome he was betrayed by a countryman whom he had +befriended. He himself has told us + + Of the most disastrous chances + Of moving accidents by flood and field, + +which made a journey from St. David’s to Rome a more perilous adventure +in those unquiet days than an expedition “through darkest Africa” is in +ours. At last the very Chapter of St. David’s, for whose ancient rights +he was contending, basely deserted him. “The laity of Wales stood by +me,” so he wrote in later days, “but of the clergy whose battle I was +fighting scarce one.” Pope Innocent III. was far too wary a politician +to favour the claims of a small and distracted nation, already +half-subjugated, against the king of a rich and powerful country. He +flattered our poor Gerald, he delighted in his company, he accepted, and +perhaps even read, his books. But in the end, after five years’ +incessant fighting, the decision went against him, and the English king’s +nominee has ever since sat on the throne of St. David’s. “Many and great +wars,” said Gwenwynwyn, the Prince of Powis, “have we Welshmen waged with +England, but none so great and fierce as his who fought the king and the +archbishop, and withstood the might of the whole clergy and people of +England, for the honour of Wales.” + +Short was the memory and scant the gratitude of his countrymen. When in +1214 another vacancy occurred at a time when King John was at variance +with his barons and his prelates, the Chapter of St. David’s nominated, +not Gerald, their old champion, but Iorwerth, the Abbot of Talley, from +whose reforming zeal they had nothing to fear. This last prick of +Fortune’s sword pierced Gerald to the quick. He had for years been +gradually withdrawing from an active life. He had resigned his +archdeaconry and his prebend stall, he had made a fourth pilgrimage, this +time for his soul’s sake, to Rome, he had retired to a quiet pursuit of +letters probably at Lincoln, and henceforward, till his death about the +year 1223, he devoted himself to revising and embellishing his old works, +and completing his literary labours. By his fight for St. David’s he had +endeared himself to the laity of his country for all time. The saying of +Llewelyn the Great was prophetic. “So long as Wales shall stand by the +writings of the chroniclers and by the songs of the bards shall his noble +deed be praised throughout all time.” The prophecy has not yet been +verified. Welsh chroniclers have made but scanty references to Gerald; +no bard has ever yet sung an _Awdl_ or a _Pryddest_ in honour of him who +fought for the “honour of Wales.” His countrymen have forgotten Gerald +the Welshman. It has been left to Sir Richard Colt Hoare, Foster, +Professor Brewer, Dimmock, and Professor Freeman to edit his works. Only +two of his countrymen have attempted to rescue one of the greatest of +Welshmen from an undeserved oblivion. In 1585, when the Renaissance of +Letters had begun to rouse the dormant powers of the Cymry, Dr. David +Powel edited in Latin a garbled version of the “Itinerary” and +“Description of Wales,” and gave a short and inaccurate account of +Gerald’s life. In 1889 Dr. Henry Owen published, “at his own proper +charges,” the first adequate account by a Welshman of the life and +labours of Giraldus Cambrensis. When his monument is erected in the +cathedral which was built by his hated rival, the epitaph which he +composed for himself may well be inscribed upon it— + + Cambria Giraldus genuit, sic Cambria mentem + Erudiit, cineres cui lapis iste tegit. + +And by that time perhaps some competent scholar will have translated some +at least of Gerald’s works into the language best understood by the +people of Wales. + +It would be impossible to exaggerate the enormous services which three +great Welshmen of the twelfth century rendered to England and to the +world—such services as we may securely hope will be emulated by Welshmen +of the next generation, now that we have lived to witness what Mr. +Theodore Watts-Dunton has called “the great recrudescence of Cymric +energy.” {0e} The romantic literature of England owes its origin to +Geoffrey of Monmouth; {0f} Sir Galahad, the stainless knight, the mirror +of Christian chivalry, as well as the nobler portions of the Arthurian +romance, were the creation of Walter Map, the friend and “gossip” of +Gerald; {0g} and John Richard Green has truly called Gerald himself “the +father of popular literature.” {0h} He began to write when he was only +twenty; he continued to write till he was past the allotted span of life. +He is the most “modern” as well as the most voluminous of all the +mediæval writers. Of all English writers, Miss Kate Norgate {0i} has +perhaps most justly estimated the real place of Gerald in English +letters. “Gerald’s wide range of subjects,” she says, “is only less +remarkable than the ease and freedom with which he treats them. Whatever +he touches—history, archæology, geography, natural science, politics, the +social life and thought of the day, the physical peculiarities of Ireland +and the manners and customs of its people, the picturesque scenery and +traditions of his own native land, the scandals of the court and the +cloister, the petty struggle for the primacy of Wales, and the great +tragedy of the fall of the Angevin Empire—is all alike dealt with in the +bold, dashing, offhand style of a modern newspaper or magazine article. +His first important work, the ‘Topography of Ireland,’ is, with due +allowance for the difference between the tastes of the twelfth century +and those of the nineteenth, just such a series of sketches as a special +correspondent in our own day might send from some newly-colonised island +in the Pacific to satisfy or whet the curiosity of his readers at home.” +The description aptly applies to all that Gerald wrote. If not a +historian, he was at least a great journalist. His descriptions of +Ireland have been subjected to much hostile criticism from the day they +were written to our own times. They were assailed at the time, as Gerald +himself tells us, for their unconventionality, for their departure from +established custom, for the freedom and colloquialism of their style, for +the audacity of their stories, and for the writer’s daring in venturing +to treat the manners and customs of a barbarous country as worthy the +attention of the learned and the labours of the historian. Irish +scholars, from the days of Dr. John Lynch, who published his “Cambrensis +Eversus” in 1622, have unanimously denounced the work of the sensational +journalist, born out of due time. His Irish books are confessedly +partisan; the “Conquest of Ireland” was expressly designed as an eulogy +of “the men of St. David’s,” the writer’s own kinsmen. But in spite of +partisanship and prejudice, they must be regarded as a serious and +valuable addition to our knowledge of the state of Ireland at the latter +end of the twelfth century. Indeed, Professor Brewer does not hesitate +to say that “to his industry we are exclusively indebted for all that is +known of the state of Ireland during the whole of the Middle Ages,” and +as to the “Topography,” Gerald “must take rank with the first who +descried the value and in some respects the limits of descriptive +geography.” + +When he came to deal with the affairs of state on a larger stage, his +methods were still that of the modern journalist. He was always an +impressionist, a writer of personal sketches. His character sketches of +the Plantagenet princes—of King Henry with his large round head and fat +round belly, his fierce eyes, his tigerish temper, his learning, his +licentiousness, his duplicity, and of Eleanor of Aquitaine, his vixenish +and revengeful wife, the murderess of “Fair Rosamond” (who must have been +known to Gerald, being the daughter of Walter of Clifford-on-the-Wye), +and of the fierce brood that they reared—are of extraordinary interest. +His impressions of the men and events of his time, his fund of anecdotes +and _bon mots_, his references to trivial matters, which more dignified +writers would never deign to mention, his sprightly and sometimes +malicious gossip, invest his period with a reality which the greatest of +fiction-writers has failed to rival. Gerald lived in the days of +chivalry, days which have been crowned with a halo of deathless romance +by the author of “Ivanhoe” and the “Talisman.” He knew and was intimate +with all the great actors of the time. He had lived in the Paris of St. +Louis and Philip Augustus, and was never tired of exalting the House of +Capet over the tyrannical and bloodthirsty House of Anjou. He had no +love of England, for her Plantagenet kings or her Saxon serfs. During +the French invasion in the time of King John his sympathies were openly +with the Dauphin as against the “brood of vipers,” who were equally alien +to English soil. For the Saxon, indeed, he felt the twofold hatred of +Welshman and Norman. One of his opponents is denounced to the Pope as an +“untriwe Sax,” and the Saxons are described as the slaves of the Normans, +the mere hewers of wood and drawers of water for their conquerors. He +met Innocent III., the greatest of Popes, in familiar converse, he jested +and gossiped with him in slippered ease, he made him laugh at his endless +stories of the glory of Wales, the iniquities of the Angevins, and the +bad Latin of Archbishop Walter. He knew Richard Cœur-de-Lion, the flower +of chivalry, and saw him as he was and “not through a glass darkly.” He +knew John, the cleverest and basest of his house. He knew and loved +Stephen Langton, the precursor of a long line of statesmen who have made +English liberty broad—based upon the people’s will. He was a friend of +St. Hugh of Lincoln, the sweetest and purest spirit in the Anglican +Church of the Middle Ages, the one man who could disarm the wrath of the +fierce king with a smile; and he was the friend and patron of Robert +Grosstete, afterwards the great Bishop of Lincoln. He lived much in +company with Ranulph de Glanville, the first English jurist, and he has +“Boswellised” some of his conversations with him. He was intimate with +Archbishop Baldwin, the saintly prelate who laid down his life in the +Third Crusade on the burning plains of Palestine, heart-broken at the +unbridled wickedness of the soldiers of the Cross. He was the near +kinsman and confidant of the Cambro-Normans, who, landing in Leinster in +1165, effected what may be described as the first conquest of Ireland. +There was scarcely a man of note in his day whom he had not seen and +conversed with, or of whom he does not relate some piquant story. He had +travelled much, and had observed closely. Probably the most valuable of +all his works, from the strictly historical point of view, are the +“Itinerary” and “Description of Wales,” which are reprinted in the +present volume. {0j} Here he is impartial in his evidence, and judicial +in his decisions. If he errs at all, it is not through racial prejudice. +“I am sprung,” he once told the Pope in a letter, “from the princes of +Wales and from the barons of the Marches, and when I see injustice in +either race, I hate it.” + +The text is that of Sir Richard Colt Hoare, who published an English +translation, chiefly from the texts of Camden and Wharton, in 1806. The +valuable historical notes have been curtailed, as being too elaborate for +such a volume as this, and a few notes have been added by the present +editor. These will be found within brackets. Hoare’s translation, and +also translations (edited by Mr. Foster) of the Irish books have been +published in Bohn’s Antiquarian Library. + +The first of the seven volumes of the Latin text of Gerald, published in +the Rolls Series, appeared in 1861. The first four volumes were edited +by Professor Brewer; the next two by Mr. Dimmock; and the seventh by +Professor Freeman. + + W. LLEWELYN WILLIAMS. + +_January_ 1908. + + * * * * * + +The following is a list of the more important of the works of Gerald:— + + Topographia Hibernica, Expugnatio Hibernica, Itinerarium Kambriæ, + Descriptio Kambriæ, Gemma Ecclesiastica, Libellus Invectionum, De Rebus + a se Gestis, Dialogus de jure et statu Menevensis Ecclesiæ, De + Instructione Principum, De Legendis Sanctorum, Symbolum Electorum. + + + + +FIRST PREFACE +TO STEPHEN LANGTON, ARCHBISHOP OF CANTERBURY + + +AS the times are affected by the changes of circumstances, so are the +minds of men influenced by different manners and customs. The satirist +[Persius] exclaims, + + “Mille hominum species et mentis discolor usus; + Velle suum cuique est, nec voto vivitur uno.” + + “Nature is ever various in her name; + Each has a different will, and few the same.” + +The comic poet also says, “_Quot capita tot sententiæ_, _suus cuique mos +est_.” “As many men, so many minds, each has his way.” Young soldiers +exult in war, and pleaders delight in the gown; others aspire after +riches, and think them the supreme good. Some approve Galen, some +Justinian. Those who are desirous of honours follow the court, and from +their ambitious pursuits meet with more mortification than satisfaction. +Some, indeed, but very few, take pleasure in the liberal arts, amongst +whom we cannot but admire logicians, who, when they have made only a +trifling progress, are as much enchanted with the images of Dialectics, +as if they were listening to the songs of the Syrens. + +But among so many species of men, where are to be found divine poets? +Where the noble assertors of morals? Where the masters of the Latin +tongue? Who in the present times displays lettered eloquence, either in +history or poetry? Who, I say, in our own age, either builds a system of +ethics, or consigns illustrious actions to immortality? Literary fame, +which used to be placed in the highest rank, is now, because of the +depravity of the times, tending to ruin and degraded to the lowest, so +that persons attached to study are at present not only not imitated nor +venerated, but even detested. “Happy indeed would be the arts,” observes +Fabius, “if artists alone judged of the arts;” but, as Sydonius says, “it +is a fixed principle in the human mind, that they who are ignorant of the +arts despise the artist.” + +But to revert to our subject. Which, I ask, have rendered more service +to the world, the arms of Marius or the verses of Virgil? The sword of +Marius has rusted, while the fame of him who wrote the Æneid is immortal; +and although in his time letters were honoured by lettered persons, yet +from his own pen we find, + + “— — tantum + Carmina nostra valent tela inter Martia, quantum + Chaonias dicunt, aquila veniente, columbas.” + +Who would hesitate in deciding which are more profitable, the works of +St. Jerom, or the riches of Crœsus? but where now shine the gold and +silver of Crœsus? whilst the world is instructed by the example and +enlightened by the learning of the poor cœnobite. Yet even he, through +envy, suffered stripes and contumely at Rome, although his character was +so illustrious; and at length being driven beyond the seas, found a +refuge for his studies in the solitude of Bethlehem. Thus it appears, +that gold and arms may support us in this life, but avail nothing after +death; and that letters through envy profit nothing in this world, but, +like a testament, acquire an immortal value from the seal of death. + +According to the poet, + + “Pascitur in vivis livor, post fata quiescit; + Cum suus ex merito quemque tuetur honor.” + +And also + + “Denique si quis adhuc prætendit nubila, livor + Occidet, et meriti post me referentur honores.” + +Those who by artifice endeavour to acquire or preserve the reputation of +abilities or ingenuity, while they abound in the words of others, have +little cause to boast of their own inventions. For the composers of that +polished language, in which such various cases as occur in the great body +of law are treated with such an appropriate elegance of style, must ever +stand forward in the first ranks of praise. I should indeed have said, +that the authors of refined language, not the hearers only, the +inventors, not the reciters, are most worthy of commendation. You will +find, however, that the practices of the court and of the schools are +extremely similar; as well in the subtleties they employ to lead you +forward, as in the steadiness with which they generally maintain their +own positions. Yet it is certain that the knowledge of logic (the +_acumen_, if I may so express it, of all other sciences as well as arts) +is very useful, when restricted within proper bounds; whilst the court +(_i.e._ courtly language), excepting to sycophants or ambitious men, is +by no means necessary. For if you are successful at court, ambition +never wholly quits its hold till satiated, and allures and draws you +still closer; but if your labour is thrown away, you still continue the +pursuit, and, together with your substance, lose your time, the greatest +and most irretrievable of all losses. There is likewise some resemblance +between the court and the game of dice, as the poet observes:— + + “Sic ne perdiderit non cessat perdere lusor, + Dum revocat cupidas alea blanda manus;” + +which, by substituting the word _curia_ for _alea_, may be applied to the +court. This further proof of their resemblance may be added; that as the +chances of the dice and court are not productive of any real delight, so +they are equally distributed to the worthy and the unworthy. + +Since, therefore, among so many species of men, each follows his own +inclination, and each is actuated by different desires, a regard for +posterity has induced me to choose the study of composition; and, as this +life is temporary and mutable, it is grateful to live in the memory of +future ages, and to be immortalized by fame; for to toil after that which +produces envy in life, but glory after death, is a sure indication of an +elevated mind. Poets and authors indeed aspire after immortality, but do +not reject any present advantages that may offer. + +I formerly completed with vain and fruitless labour the Topography of +Ireland for its companion, the king Henry the Second, and Vaticinal +History, for Richard of Poitiou, his son, and, I wish I were not +compelled to add, his successor in vice; princes little skilled in +letters, and much engaged in business. To you, illustrious Stephen, +archbishop of Canterbury, equally commendable for your learning and +religion, I now dedicate the account of our meritorious journey through +the rugged provinces of Cambria, written in a scholastic style, and +divided into two parts. For as virtue loves itself, and detests what is +contrary to it, so I hope you will consider whatever I may have written +in commendation of your late venerable and eminent predecessor, with no +less affection than if it related to yourself. To you also, when +completed, I destine my treatise on the Instruction of a Prince, if, +amidst your religious and worldly occupations, you can find leisure for +the perusal of it. For I purpose to submit these and other fruits of my +diligence to be tasted by you at your discretion, each in its proper +order; hoping that, if my larger undertakings do not excite your +interest, my smaller works may at least merit your approbation, +conciliate your favour, and call forth my gratitude towards you; who, +unmindful of worldly affections, do not partially distribute your +bounties to your family and friends, but to letters and merit; you, who, +in the midst of such great and unceasing contests between the crown and +the priesthood, stand forth almost singly the firm and faithful friend of +the British church; you, who, almost the only one duly elected, fulfil +the scriptural designation of the episcopal character. It is not, +however, by bearing a cap, by placing a cushion, by shielding off the +rain, or by wiping the dust, even if there should be none, in the midst +of a herd of flatterers, that I attempt to conciliate your favour, but by +my writings. To you, therefore, rare, noble, and illustrious man, on +whom nature and art have showered down whatever becomes your supereminent +situation, I dedicate my works; but if I fail in this mode of +conciliating your favour, and if your prayers and avocations should not +allow you sufficient time to read them, I shall consider the honour of +letters as vanished, and in hope of its revival I shall inscribe my +writings to posterity. + + + + +SECOND PREFACE +TO THE SAME PRELATE + + +SINCE those things, which are known to have been done through a laudable +devotion, are not unworthily extolled with due praises; and since the +mind, when relaxed, loses its energy, and the torpor of sloth enervates +the understanding, as iron acquires rust for want of use, and stagnant +waters become foul; lest my pen should be injured by the rust of +idleness, I have thought good to commit to writing the devout visitation +which Baldwin, archbishop of Canterbury, made throughout Wales; and to +hand down, as it were in a mirror, through you, O illustrious Stephen, to +posterity, the difficult places through which we passed, the names of +springs and torrents, the witty sayings, the toils and incidents of the +journey, the memorable events of ancient and modern times, and the +natural history and description of the country; lest my study should +perish through idleness, or the praise of these things be lost by +silence. + + + + +CONTENTS + + BOOK I +CHAPTER PAGE + I. Journey through Hereford and Radnor 11 + II. Journey through Hay and Brecheinia 18 + III. Ewyas and Llanthoni 34 + IV. The Journey by Coed Grono and Abergevenni 44 + V. Of the Progress by the Castle of Usk and the 50 + Town of Caerleon + VI. Newport and Caerdyf 56 + VII. The See of Landaf and Monastery of Margan, and 61 + the Remarkable Things in those Parts + VIII. Passage of the Rivers Avon and Neth—and of 65 + Abertawe and Goer + IX. Passage over the Rivers Lochor and Wendraeth; 71 + and of Cydweli + X. Tywy River—Caermardyn—Monastery of Albelande 73 + XI. Of Haverford and Ros 76 + XII. Of Penbroch 82 + XIII. Of the Progress by Camros and Niwegal 91 + BOOK II + I. Of the See of Saint David’s 95 + II. Of the Journey by Cemmeis—the Monastery of St. 102 + Dogmael + III. Of the River Teivi—Cardigan, and Emelyn 105 + IV. Of the Journey by Pont Stephen, the Abbey of 109 + Stratflur, Landewi Brevi, and Lhanpadarn Vawr + V. Of the River Devi, and the Land of the Sons of 113 + Conan + VI. Passage of traeth mawr and traeth bachan, and 115 + of nevyn, carnarvon, and bangor + VII. The island of mona 118 + VIII. Passage of the river conwy in a boat, and of 125 + dinas emrys + IX. Of the mountains of eryri 127 + X. Of the passage by deganwy and ruthlan, and the 128 + see of lanelwy, and of coleshulle + XI. Of the passage of the river dee, and of 131 + chester + XII. Of the journey by the white monastery, 133 + oswaldestree, powys, and shrewsbury + XIII. Of the journey by wenloch, brumfeld, the 137 + castle of ludlow, and leominster, to hereford + XIV. A description of baldwin, archbishop of 139 + canterbury + +THE ITINERARY THROUGH WALES +BOOK I + + +CHAPTER I +JOURNEY THROUGH HEREFORD AND RADNOR + + +IN the year 1188 from the incarnation of our Lord, Urban the Third {11} +being the head of the apostolic see; Frederick, emperor of Germany and +king of the Romans; Isaac, emperor of Constantinople; Philip, the son of +Louis, reigning in France; Henry the Second in England; William in +Sicily; Bela in Hungary; and Guy in Palestine: in that very year, when +Saladin, prince of the Egyptians and Damascenes, by a signal victory +gained possession of the kingdom of Jerusalem; Baldwin, archbishop of +Canterbury, a venerable man, distinguished for his learning and sanctity, +journeying from England for the service of the holy cross, entered Wales +near the borders of Herefordshire. + +The archbishop proceeded to Radnor, {12a} on Ash Wednesday (_Caput +Jejunii_), accompanied by Ranulph de Glanville, privy counsellor and +justiciary of the whole kingdom, and there met Rhys, {12b} son of +Gruffydd, prince of South Wales, and many other noble personages of those +parts; where a sermon being preached by the archbishop, upon the subject +of the Crusades, and explained to the Welsh by an interpreter, the author +of this Itinerary, impelled by the urgent importunity and promises of the +king, and the persuasions of the archbishop and the justiciary, arose the +first, and falling down at the feet of the holy man, devoutly took the +sign of the cross. His example was instantly followed by Peter, bishop +of St. David’s, {12c} a monk of the abbey of Cluny, and then by Eineon, +son of Eineon Clyd, {12d} prince of Elvenia, and many other persons. +Eineon rising up, said to Rhys, whose daughter he had married, “My father +and lord! with your permission I hasten to revenge the injury offered to +the great father of all.” Rhys himself was so fully determined upon the +holy peregrination, as soon as the archbishop should enter his +territories on his return, that for nearly fifteen days he was employed +with great solicitude in making the necessary preparations for so distant +a journey; till his wife, and, according to the common vicious licence of +the country, his relation in the fourth degree, Guendolena, (Gwenllian), +daughter of Madoc, prince of Powys, by female artifices diverted him +wholly from his noble purpose; since, as Solomon says, “A man’s heart +deviseth his way, but the Lord directeth his steps.” As Rhys before his +departure was conversing with his friends concerning the things he had +heard, a distinguished young man of his family, by name Gruffydd, and who +afterwards took the cross, is said thus to have answered: “What man of +spirit can refuse to undertake this journey, since, amongst all +imaginable inconveniences, nothing worse can happen to any one than to +return.” + +On the arrival of Rhys in his own territory, certain canons of Saint +David’s, through a zeal for their church, having previously secured the +interest of some of the prince’s courtiers, waited on Rhys, and +endeavoured by every possible suggestion to induce him not to permit the +archbishop to proceed into the interior parts of Wales, and particularly +to the metropolitan see of Saint David’s (a thing hitherto unheard of), +at the same time asserting that if he should continue his intended +journey, the church would in future experience great prejudice, and with +difficulty would recover its ancient dignity and honour. Although these +pleas were most strenuously urged, the natural kindness and civility of +the prince would not suffer them to prevail, lest by prohibiting the +archbishop’s progress, he might appear to wound his feelings. + +Early on the following morning, after the celebration of mass, and the +return of Ranulph de Glanville to England, we came to Cruker Castle, {13} +two miles distant from Radnor, where a strong and valiant youth named +Hector, conversing with the archbishop about taking the cross, said, “If +I had the means of getting provisions for one day, and of keeping fast on +the next, I would comply with your advice;” on the following day, +however, he took the cross. The same evening, Malgo, son of Cadwallon, +prince of Melenia, after a short but efficacious exhortation from the +archbishop, and not without the tears and lamentations of his friends, +was marked with the sign of the cross. + +But here it is proper to mention what happened during the reign of king +Henry the First to the lord of the castle of Radnor, in the adjoining +territory of Builth, {14a} who had entered the church of Saint Avan +(which is called in the British language Llan Avan), {14b} and, without +sufficient caution or reverence, had passed the night there with his +hounds. Arising early in the morning, according to the custom of +hunters, he found his hounds mad, and himself struck blind. After a +long, dark, and tedious existence, he was conveyed to Jerusalem, happily +taking care that his inward sight should not in a similar manner be +extinguished; and there being accoutred, and led to the field of battle +on horseback, he made a spirited attack upon the enemies of the faith, +and, being mortally wounded, closed his life with honour. + +Another circumstance which happened in these our days, in the province of +Warthrenion, {14c} distant from hence only a few furlongs, is not +unworthy of notice. Eineon, lord of that district, and son-in-law to +prince Rhys, who was much addicted to the chase, having on a certain day +forced the wild beasts from their coverts, one of his attendants killed a +hind with an arrow, as she was springing forth from the wood, which, +contrary to the nature of her sex, was found to bear horns of twelve +years’ growth, and was much fatter than a stag, in the haunches as well +as in every other part. On account of the singularity of this +circumstance, the head and horns of this strange animal were destined as +a present to king Henry the Second. This event is the more remarkable, +as the man who shot the hind suddenly lost the use of his right eye, and +being at the same time seized with a paralytic complaint, remained in a +weak and impotent state until the time of his death. + +In this same province of Warthrenion, and in the church of Saint +Germanus, {15a} there is a staff of Saint Cyric, {15b} covered on all +sides with gold and silver, and resembling in its upper part the form of +a cross; its efficacy has been proved in many cases, but particularly in +the removal of glandular and strumous swellings; insomuch that all +persons afflicted with these complaints, on a devout application to the +staff, with the oblation of one penny, are restored to health. But it +happened in these our days, that a strumous patient on presenting one +halfpenny to the staff, the humour subsided only in the middle; but when +the oblation was completed by the other halfpenny, an entire cure was +accomplished. Another person also coming to the staff with the promise +of a penny, was cured; but not fulfilling his engagement on the day +appointed, he relapsed into his former disorder; in order, however, to +obtain pardon for his offence, he tripled the offering by presenting +three-pence, and thus obtained a complete cure. + +At Elevein, in the church of Glascum, {16a} is a portable bell, endowed +with great virtues, called Bangu, {16b} and said to have belonged to +Saint David. A certain woman secretly conveyed this bell to her husband, +who was confined in the castle of Raidergwy, {16c} near Warthrenion, +(which Rhys, son of Gruffydd, had lately built) for the purpose of his +deliverance. The keepers of the castle not only refused to liberate him +for this consideration, but seized and detained the bell; and in the same +night, by divine vengeance, the whole town, except the wall on which the +bell hung, was consumed by fire. + +The church of Luel, {16d} in the neighbourhood of Brecheinoc +(_Brechinia_), was burned, also in our time, by the enemy, and everything +destroyed, except one small box, in which the consecrated host was +deposited. + +It came to pass also in the province of Elvenia, which is separated from +Hay by the river Wye, in the night in which king Henry I. expired, that +two pools {17} of no small extent, the one natural, the other artificial, +suddenly burst their bounds; the latter, by its precipitate course down +the declivities, emptied itself; but the former, with its fish and +contents, obtained a permanent situation in a valley about two miles +distant. In Normandy, a few days before the death of Henry II., the fish +of a certain pool near Seez, five miles from the castle of Exme, fought +during the night so furiously with each other, both in the water and out +of it, that the neighbouring people were attracted by the noise to the +spot; and so desperate was the conflict, that scarcely a fish was found +alive in the morning; thus, by a wonderful and unheard-of prognostic, +foretelling the death of one by that of many. + +But the borders of Wales sufficiently remember and abhor the great and +enormous excesses which, from ambitious usurpation of territory, have +arisen amongst brothers and relations in the districts of Melenyth, +Elvein, and Warthrenion, situated between the Wye and the Severn. + + + + +CHAPTER II +JOURNEY THROUGH HAY AND BRECHEINIA + + +HAVING crossed the river Wye, we proceeded towards Brecheinoc, and on +preaching a sermon at Hay, {18a} we observed some amongst the multitude, +who were to be signed with the cross (leaving their garments in the hands +of their friends or wives, who endeavoured to keep them back), fly for +refuge to the archbishop in the castle. Early in the morning we began +our journey to Aberhodni, and the word of the Lord being preached at +Landeu, {18b} we there spent the night. The castle and chief town of the +province, situated where the river Hodni joins the river Usk, is called +Aberhodni; {18c} and every place where one river falls into another is +called Aber in the British tongue. Landeu signifies the church of God. +The archdeacon of that place (Giraldus) presented to the archbishop his +work on the Topography of Ireland, which he graciously received, and +either read or heard a part of it read attentively every day during his +journey; and on his return to England completed the perusal of it. + +I have determined not to omit mentioning those occurrences worthy of note +which happened in these parts in our days. It came to pass before that +great war, in which nearly all this province was destroyed by the sons of +Jestin, {19a} that the large lake, and the river Leveni, {19b} which +flows from it into the Wye, opposite Glasbyry, {19c} were tinged with a +deep green colour. The old people of the country were consulted, and +answered, that a short time before the great desolation {19d} caused by +Howel, son of Meredyth, the water had been coloured in a similar manner. +About the same time, a chaplain, whose name was Hugo, being engaged to +officiate at the chapel of Saint Nicholas, in the castle of Aberhodni, +saw in a dream a venerable man standing near him, and saying, “Tell thy +lord William de Braose, {19e} who has the audacity to retain the property +granted to the chapel of Saint Nicholas for charitable uses, these words: +‘The public treasury takes away that which Christ does not receive; and +thou wilt then give to an impious soldier, what thou wilt not give to a +priest.’” This vision having been repeated three times, he went to the +archdeacon of the place, at Landeu, and related to him what had happened. +The archdeacon immediately knew them to be the words of Augustine; and +shewing him that part of his writings where they were found, explained to +him the case to which they applied. He reproaches persons who held back +tithes and other ecclesiastical dues; and what he there threatens, +certainly in a short time befell this withholder of them: for in our time +we have duly and undoubtedly seen, that princes who have usurped +ecclesiastical benefices (and particularly king Henry the Second, who +laboured under this vice more than others), have profusely squandered the +treasures of the church, and given away to hired soldiers what in justice +should have been given only to priests. + +Yet something is to be said in favour of the aforesaid William de Braose, +although he greatly offended in this particular (since nothing human is +perfect, and to have knowledge of all things, and in no point to err, is +an attribute of God, not of man); for he always placed the name of the +Lord before his sentences, saying, “Let this be done in the name of the +Lord; let that be done by God’s will; if it shall please God, or if God +grant leave; it shall be so by the grace of God.” We learn from Saint +Paul, that everything ought thus to be committed and referred to the will +of God. On taking leave of his brethren, he says, “I will return to you +again, if God permit;” and Saint James uses this expression, “If the Lord +will, and we live,” in order to show that all things ought to be +submitted to the divine disposal. The letters also which William de +Braose, as a rich and powerful man, was accustomed to send to different +parts, were loaded, or rather honoured, with words expressive of the +divine indulgence to a degree not only tiresome to his scribe, but even +to his auditors; for as a reward to each of his scribes for concluding +his letters with the words, “by divine assistance,” he gave annually a +piece of gold, in addition to their stipend. When on a journey he saw a +church or a cross, although in the midst of conversation either with his +inferiors or superiors, from an excess of devotion, he immediately began +to pray, and when he had finished his prayers, resumed his conversation. +On meeting boys in the way, he invited them by a previous salutation to +salute him, that the blessings of these innocents, thus extorted, might +be returned to him. His wife, Matilda de Saint Valery, observed all +these things: a prudent and chaste woman; a woman placed with propriety +at the head of her house, equally attentive to the economical disposal of +her property within doors, as to the augmentation of it without; both of +whom, I hope, by their devotion obtained temporal happiness and grace, as +well as the glory of eternity. + +It happened also that the hand of a boy, who was endeavouring to take +some young pigeons from a nest, in the church of Saint David of Llanvaes, +{21} adhered to the stone on which he leaned, through the miraculous +vengeance, perhaps, of that saint, in favour of the birds who had taken +refuge in his church; and when the boy, attended by his friends and +parents, had for three successive days and nights offered up his prayers +and supplications before the holy altar of the church, his hand was, on +the third day, liberated by the same divine power which had so +miraculously fastened it. We saw this same boy at Newbury, in England, +now advanced in years, presenting himself before David the Second, {22a} +bishop of Saint David’s, and certifying to him the truth of this +relation, because it had happened in his diocese. The stone is preserved +in the church to this day among the relics, and the marks of the five +fingers appear impressed on the flint as though it were in wax. + +A small miracle happened at St. Edmundsbury to a poor woman, who often +visited the shrine of the saint, under the mask of devotion; not with the +design of giving, but of taking something away, namely, the silver and +gold offerings, which, by a curious kind of theft, she licked up by +kissing, and carried away in her mouth. But in one of these attempts her +tongue and lips adhered to the altar, when by divine interposition she +was detected, and openly disgorged the secret theft. Many persons, both +Jews and Christians, expressing their astonishment, flocked to the place, +where for the greater part of the day she remained motionless, that no +possible doubt might be entertained of the miracle. + +In the north of England beyond the Humber, in the church of Hovedene, +{22b} the concubine of the rector incautiously sat down on the tomb of +St. Osana, sister of king Osred, {22c} which projected like a wooden +seat; on wishing to retire, she could not be removed, until the people +came to her assistance; her clothes were rent, her body was laid bare, +and severely afflicted with many strokes of discipline, even till the +blood flowed; nor did she regain her liberty, until by many tears and +sincere repentance she had showed evident signs of compunction. + +What miraculous power hath not in our days been displayed by the psalter +of Quindreda, sister of St. Kenelm, {23a} by whose instigation he was +killed? On the vigil of the saint, when, according to custom, great +multitudes of women resorted to the feast at Winchelcumbe, {23b} the +under butler of that convent committed fornication with one of them +within the precincts of the monastery. This same man on the following +day had the audacity to carry the psalter in the procession of the relics +of the saints; and on his return to the choir, after the solemnity, the +psalter stuck to his hands. Astonished and greatly confounded, and at +length calling to his mind his crime on the preceding day, he made +confession, and underwent penance; and being assisted by the prayers of +the brotherhood, and having shown signs of sincere contrition, he was at +length liberated from the miraculous bond. That book was held in great +veneration; because, when the body of St. Kenelm was carried forth, and +the multitude cried out, “He is the martyr of God! truly he is the martyr +of God!” Quindreda, conscious and guilty of the murder of her brother, +answered, “He is as truly the martyr of God as it is true that my eyes be +on that psalter;” for, as she was reading the psalter, both her eyes were +miraculously torn from her head, and fell on the book, where the marks of +the blood yet remain. + +Moreover I must not be silent concerning the collar (_torques_) which +they call St. Canauc’s; {24} for it is most like to gold in weight, +nature, and colour; it is in four pieces wrought round, joined together +artificially, and clefted as it were in the middle, with a dog’s head, +the teeth standing outward; it is esteemed by the inhabitants so powerful +a relic, that no man dares swear falsely when it is laid before him: it +bears the marks of some severe blows, as if made with an iron hammer; for +a certain man, as it is said, endeavouring to break the collar for the +sake of the gold, experienced the divine vengeance, was deprived of his +eyesight, and lingered the remainder of his days in darkness. + +A similar circumstance concerning the horn of St. Patrick (not golden +indeed, but of brass [probably bronze], which lately was brought into +these parts from Ireland) excites our admiration. The miraculous power +of this relic first appeared with a terrible example in that country, +through the foolish and absurd blowing of Bernard, a priest, as is set +forth in our Topography of Ireland. Both the laity and clergy in +Ireland, Scotland, and Wales held in such great veneration portable +bells, and staves crooked at the top, and covered with gold, silver, or +brass, and similar relics of the saints, that they were much more afraid +of swearing falsely by them than by the gospels; because, from some +hidden and miraculous power with which they are gifted, and the vengeance +of the saint to whom they are particularly pleasing, their despisers and +transgressors are severely punished. The most remarkable circumstance +attending this horn is, that whoever places the wider end of it to his +ear will hear a sweet sound and melody united, such as ariseth from a +harp gently touched. + +In our days a strange occurrence happened in the same district. A wild +sow, which by chance had been suckled by a bitch famous for her nose, +became, on growing up, so wonderfully active in the pursuit of wild +animals, that in the faculty of scent she was greatly superior to dogs, +who are assisted by natural instinct, as well as by human art; an +argument that man (as well as every other animal) contracts the nature of +the female who nurses him. Another prodigious event came to pass nearly +at the same time. A soldier, whose name was Gilbert Hagernel, after an +illness of nearly three years, and the severe pains as of a woman in +labour, in the presence of many people, voided a calf. A portent of some +new and unusual event, or rather the punishment attendant on some +atrocious crime. It appears also from the ancient and authentic records +of those parts, that during the time St. Elwitus {25a} led the life of a +hermit at Llanhamelach, {25b} the mare that used to carry his provisions +to him was covered by a stag, and produced an animal of wonderful speed, +resembling a horse before and a stag behind. + +Bernard de Newmarch {26a} was the first of the Normans who acquired by +conquest from the Welsh this province, which was divided into three +cantreds. {26b} He married the daughter of Nest, daughter of Gruffydd, +son of Llewelyn, who, by his tyranny, for a long time had oppressed +Wales; his wife took her mother’s name of Nest, which the English +transmuted into Anne; by whom he had children, one of whom, named Mahel, +a distinguished soldier, was thus unjustly deprived of his paternal +inheritance. His mother, in violation of the marriage contract, held an +adulterous intercourse with a certain knight; on the discovery of which, +the son met the knight returning in the night from his mother, and having +inflicted on him a severe corporal punishment, and mutilated him, sent +him away with great disgrace. The mother, alarmed at the confusion which +this event caused, and agitated with grief, breathed nothing but revenge. +She therefore went to king Henry I., and declared with assertions more +vindictive than true, and corroborated by an oath, that her son Mahel was +not the son of Bernard, but of another person with whom she had been +secretly connected. Henry, on account of this oath, or rather perjury, +and swayed more by his inclination than by reason, gave away her eldest +daughter, whom she owned as the legitimate child of Bernard, in marriage +to Milo Fitz-Walter, {27} constable of Gloucester, with the honour of +Brecheinoc as a portion; and he was afterwards created earl of Hereford +by the empress Matilda, daughter of the said king. By this wife he had +five celebrated warriors; Roger, Walter, Henry, William, and Mahel; all +of whom, by divine vengeance, or by fatal misfortunes, came to untimely +ends; and yet each of them, except William, succeeded to the paternal +inheritance, but left no issue. Thus this woman (not deviating from the +nature of her sex), in order to satiate her anger and revenge, with the +heavy loss of modesty, and with the disgrace of infamy, by the same act +deprived her son of his patrimony, and herself of honour. Nor is it +wonderful if a woman follows her innate bad disposition: for it is +written in Ecclesiastes, “I have found one good man out of a thousand, +but not one good woman;” and in Ecclesiasticus, “There is no head above +the head of a serpent; and there is no wrath above the wrath of a woman;” +and again, “Small is the wickedness of man compared to the wickedness of +woman.” And in the same manner, as we may gather grapes off thorns, or +figs off thistles, Tully, describing the nature of women, says, “Men, +perhaps, for the sake of some advantage will commit one crime; but woman, +to gratify one inclination, will not scruple to perpetrate all sorts of +wickedness.” Thus Juvenal, speaking of women, say, + + “— Nihil est audacior illis + Deprensis, iram atque animos a crimine sumunt. + — Mulier sævissima tunc est + Cum stimulos animo pudor admovet. + — colllige, quod vindicta + Nemo magis gaudet quam fœmina.” + +But of the five above-mentioned brothers and sons of earl Milo, the +youngest but one, and the last in the inheritance, was the most +remarkable for his inhumanity; he persecuted David II., bishop of St. +David’s, to such a degree, by attacking his possessions, lands, and +vassals, that he was compelled to retire as an exile from the district of +Brecheinoc into England, or to some other parts of his diocese. +Meanwhile, Mahel, being hospitably entertained by Walter de Clifford, +{28a} in the castle of Brendlais, {28b} the house was by accident burned +down, and he received a mortal blow by a stone falling from the principal +tower on his head: upon which he instantly dispatched messengers to recal +the bishop, and exclaimed with a lamentable voice, “O, my father and high +priest, your saint has taken most cruel vengeance of me, not waiting the +conversion of a sinner, but hastening his death and overthrow.” Having +often repeated similar expressions, and bitterly lamented his situation, +he thus ended his tyranny and life together; the first year of his +government not having elapsed. + +A powerful and noble personage, by name Brachanus, was in ancient times +the ruler of the province of Brecheinoc, and from him it derived this +name. The British histories testify that he had four-and-twenty +daughters, all of whom, dedicated from their youth to religious +observances, happily ended their lives in sanctity. There are many +churches in Wales distinguished by their names, one of which, situated on +the summit of a hill, near Brecheinoc, and not far from the castle of +Aberhodni, is called the church of St. Almedda, {29a} after the name of +the holy virgin, who, refusing there the hand of an earthly spouse, +married the Eternal King, and triumphed in a happy martyrdom; to whose +honour a solemn feast is annually held in the beginning of August, and +attended by a large concourse of people from a considerable distance, +when those persons who labour under various diseases, through the merits +of the Blessed Virgin, received their wished-for health. The +circumstances which occur at every anniversary appear to me remarkable. +You may see men or girls, now in the church, now in the churchyard, now +in the dance, which is led round the churchyard with a song, on a sudden +falling on the ground as in a trance, then jumping up as in a frenzy, and +representing with their hands and feet, before the people, whatever work +they have unlawfully done on feast days; you may see one man put his hand +to the plough, and another, as it were, goad on the oxen, mitigating +their sense of labour, by the usual rude song: {29b} one man imitating +the profession of a shoemaker; another, that of a tanner. Now you may +see a girl with a distaff, drawing out the thread, and winding it again +on the spindle; another walking, and arranging the threads for the web; +another, as it were, throwing the shuttle, and seeming to weave. On +being brought into the church, and led up to the altar with their +oblations, you will be astonished to see them suddenly awakened, and +coming to themselves. Thus, by the divine mercy, which rejoices in the +conversion, not in the death, of sinners, many persons from the +conviction of their senses, are on these feast days corrected and mended. + +This country sufficiently abounds with grain, and if there is any +deficiency, it is amply supplied from the neighbouring parts of England; +it is well stored with pastures, woods, and wild and domestic animals. +River-fish are plentiful, supplied by the Usk on one side, and by the Wye +on the other; each of them produces salmon and trout; but the Wye abounds +most with the former, the Usk with the latter. The salmon of the Wye are +in season during the winter, those of the Usk in summer; but the Wye +alone produces the fish called umber, {30a} the praise of which is +celebrated in the works of Ambrosius, as being found in great numbers in +the rivers near Milan; “What,” says he, “is more beautiful to behold, +more agreeable to smell, or more pleasant to taste?” The famous lake of +Brecheinoc supplies the courntry with pike, perch, excellent trout, +tench, and eels. A circumstance concerning this lake, which happened a +short time before our days, must not be passed over in silence. “In the +reign of king Henry I., Gruffydd, {30b} son of Rhys ap Tewdwr, held under +the king one comot, namely, the fourth part of the cantred of Caoc, {31} +in the cantref Mawr, which, in title and dignity, was esteemed by the +Welsh equal to the southern part of Wales, called Deheubarth, that is, +the right-hand side of Wales. When Gruffydd, on his return from the +king’s court, passed near this lake, which at that cold season of the +year was covered with water-fowl of various sorts, being accompanied by +Milo, earl of Hereford, and lord of Brecheinoc, and Payn Fitz-John, lord +of Ewyas, who were at that time secretaries and privy counsellors to the +king; earl Milo, wishing to draw forth from Gruffydd some discourse +concerning his innate nobility, rather jocularly than seriously thus +addressed him: “It is an ancient saying in Wales, that if the natural +prince of the country, coming to this lake, shall order the birds to +sing, they will immediately obey him.” To which Gruffydd, richer in mind +than in gold, (for though his inheritance was diminished, his ambition +and dignity still remained), answered, “Do you therefore, who now hold +the dominion of this land, first give the command;” but he and Payn +having in vain commanded, and Gruffydd, perceiving that it was necessary +for him to do so in his turn, dismounted from his horse, and falling on +his knees towards the east, as if he had been about to engage in battle, +prostrate on the ground, with his eyes and hands uplifted to heaven, +poured forth devout prayers to the Lord: at length, rising up, and +signing his face and forehead with the figure of the cross, he thus +openly spake: “Almighty God, and Lord Jesus Christ, who knowest all +things, declare here this day thy power. If thou hast caused me to +descend lineally from the natural princes of Wales, I command these birds +in thy name to declare it;” and immediately the birds, beating the water +with their wings, began to cry aloud, and proclaim him. The spectators +were astonished and confounded; and earl Milo hastily returning with Payn +Fitz-John to court, related this singular occurrence to the king, who is +said to have replied, “By the death of Christ (an oath he was accustomed +to use), it is not a matter of so much wonder; for although by our great +authority we commit acts of violence and wrong against these people, yet +they are known to be the rightful inheritors of this land.” + +The lake also {32} (according to the testimony of the inhabitants) is +celebrated for its miracles; for, as we have before observed, it +sometimes assumed a greenish hue, so in our days it has appeared to be +tinged with red, not universally, but as if blood flowed partially +through certain veins and small channels. Moreover it is sometimes seen +by the inhabitants covered and adorned with buildings, pastures, gardens, +and orchards. In the winter, when it is frozen over, and the surface of +the water is converted into a shell of ice, it emits a horrible sound +resembling the moans of many animals collected together; but this, +perhaps, may be occasioned by the sudden bursting of the shell, and the +gradual ebullition of the air through imperceptible channels. This +country is well sheltered on every side (except the northern) by high +mountains; on the western by those of cantref Bychan; {33a} on the +southern, by that range, of which the principal is Cadair Arthur, {33b} +or the chair of Arthur, so called from two peaks rising up in the form of +a chair, and which, from its lofty situation, is vulgarly ascribed to +Arthur, the most distinguished king of the Britons. A spring of water +rises on the summit of this mountain, deep, but of a square shape, like a +well, and although no stream runs from it, trout are said to be sometimes +found in it. + +Being thus sheltered on the south by high mountains, the cooler breezes +protect this district from the heat of the sun, and, by their natural +salubrity, render the climate most temperate. Towards the east are the +mountains of Talgarth and Ewyas. {34a} The natives of these parts, +actuated by continual enmities and implacable hatred, are perpetually +engaged in bloody contests. But we leave to others to describe the great +and enormous excesses, which in our time have been here committed, with +regard to marriages, divorces, and many other circumstances of cruelty +and oppression. + + + + +CHAPTER III +EWYAS AND LLANTHONI + + +IN the deep vale of Ewyas, {34b} which is about an arrow-shot broad, +encircled on all sides by lofty mountains, stands the church of Saint +John the Baptist, covered with lead, and built of wrought stone; and, +considering the nature of the place, not unhandsomely constructed, on the +very spot where the humble chapel of David, the archbishop, had formerly +stood decorated only with moss and ivy. A situation truly calculated for +religion, and more adapted to canonical discipline, than all the +monasteries of the British isle. It was founded by two hermits, in +honour of the retired life, far removed from the bustle of mankind, in a +solitary vale watered by the river Hodeni. From Hodeni it was called +Lanhodeni, for Lan signifies an ecclesiastical place. This derivation +may appear far-fetched, for the name of the place, in Welsh, is +Nanthodeni. Nant signifies a running stream, from whence this place is +still called by the inhabitants Landewi Nanthodeni, {35} or the church of +Saint David upon the river Hodeni. The English therefore corruptly call +it Lanthoni, whereas it should either be called Nanthodeni, that is, the +brook of the Hodeni, or Lanhodeni, the church upon the Hodeni. Owing to +its mountainous situation, the rains are frequent, the winds boisterous, +and the clouds in winter almost continual. The air, though heavy, is +healthy; and diseases are so rare, that the brotherhood, when worn out by +long toil and affliction during their residence with the daughter, +retiring to this asylum, and to their mother’s {36a} lap, soon regain +their long-wished-for health. For as my Topographical History of Ireland +testifies, in proportion as we proceed to the eastward, the face of the +sky is more pure and subtile, and the air more piercing and inclement; +but as we draw nearer to the westward, the air becomes more cloudy, but +at the same time is more temperate and healthy. Here the monks, sitting +in their cloisters, enjoying the fresh air, when they happen to look up +towards the horizon, behold the tops of the mountains, as it were, +touching the heavens, and herds of wild deer feeding on their summits: +the body of the sun does not become visible above the heights of the +mountains, even in a clear atmosphere, till about the hour of prime, or a +little before. A place truly fitted for contemplation, a happy and +delightful spot, fully competent, from its first establishment, to supply +all its own wants, had not the extravagance of English luxury, the pride +of a sumptuous table, the increasing growth of intemperance and +ingratitude, added to the negligence of its patrons and prelates, reduced +it from freedom to servility; and if the step-daughter, no less enviously +than odiously, had not supplanted her mother. + +It seems worthy of remark, that all the priors who were hostile to this +establishment, died by divine visitation. William, {36b} who first +despoiled the place of its herds and storehouses, being deposed by the +fraternity, forfeited his right of sepulture amongst the priors. Clement +seemed to like this place of study and prayer, yet, after the example of +Heli the priest, as he neither reproved nor restrained his brethren from +plunder and other offences, he died by a paralytic stroke. And Roger, +who was more an enemy to this place than either of his predecessors, and +openly carried away every thing which they had left behind, wholly +robbing the church of its books, ornaments, and privileges, was also +struck with a paralytic affection long before his death, resigned his +honours, and lingered out the remainder of his days in sickness. + +In the reign of king Henry I., when the mother church was as celebrated +for her affluence as for her sanctity (two qualities which are seldom +found thus united), the daughter not yet being in existence (and I +sincerely wish she never had been produced), the fame of so much religion +attracted hither Roger, bishop of Salisbury, who was at that time prime +minister; for it is virtue to love virtue, even in another man, and a +great proof of innate goodness to show a detestation of those vices which +hitherto have not been avoided. When he had reflected with admiration on +the nature of the place, the solitary life of the fraternity, living in +canonical obedience, and serving God without a murmur or complaint, he +returned to the king, and related to him what he thought most worthy of +remark; and after spending the greater part of the day in the praises of +this place, he finished his panegyric with these words: “Why should I say +more? the whole treasure of the king and his kingdom would not be +sufficient to build such a cloister.” Having held the minds of the king +and the court for a long time in suspense by this assertion, he at length +explained the enigma, by saying that he alluded to the cloister of +mountains, by which this church is on every side surrounded. But +William, a knight, who first discovered this place, and his companion +Ervistus, a priest, having heard, perhaps, as it is written in the +Fathers, according to the opinion of Jerome, “that the church of Christ +decreased in virtues as it increased in riches,” were accustomed often +devoutly to solicit the Lord that this place might never attain great +possessions. They were exceedingly concerned when this religious +foundation began to be enriched by its first lord and patron, Hugh de +Lacy, {38} and by the lands and ecclesiastical benefices conferred upon +it by the bounty of others of the faithful: from their predilection to +poverty, they rejected many offers of manors and churches; and being +situated in a wild spot, they would not suffer the thick and wooded parts +of the valley to be cultivated and levelled, lest they should be tempted +to recede from their heremitical mode of life. + +But whilst the establishment of the mother church increased daily in +riches and endowments, availing herself of the hostile state of the +country, a rival daughter sprang up at Gloucester, under the protection +of Milo, earl of Hereford; as if by divine providence, and through the +merits of the saints and prayers of those holy men (of whom two lie +buried before the high altar), it were destined that the daughter church +should be founded in superfluities, whilst the mother continued in that +laudable state of mediocrity which she had always affected and coveted. +Let the active therefore reside there, the contemplative here; there the +pursuit of terrestrial riches, here the love of celestial delights; there +let them enjoy the concourse of men, here the presence of angels; there +let the powerful of this world be entertained, here let the poor of +Christ be relieved; there, I say, let human actions and declamations be +heard, but here let reading and prayers be heard only in whispers; there +let opulence, the parent and nurse of vice, increase with cares, here let +the virtuous and golden mean be all-sufficient. In both places the +canonical discipline instituted by Augustine, which is now distinguished +above all other orders, is observed; for the Benedictines, when their +wealth was increased by the fervour of charity, and multiplied by the +bounty of the faithful, under the pretext of a bad dispensation, +corrupted by gluttony and indulgence an order which in its original state +of poverty was held in high estimation. The Cistercian order, derived +from the former, at first deserved praise and commendation from its +adhering voluntarily to the original vows of poverty and sanctity: until +ambition, the blind mother of mischief, unable to fix bounds to +prosperity, was introduced; for as Seneca says, “Too great happiness +makes men greedy, nor are their desires ever so temperate, as to +terminate in what is acquired:” a step is made from great things to +greater, and men having attained what they did not expect, form the most +unbounded hopes; to which the poet Ovid thus alludes. + + “Luxuriant animi rebus plerumque secundis, + Nec facile est æqua commoda mente pati;” + +And again: + + “Creverunt opes et opum furiosa cupido, + Et cum possideant plurima, plura petunt.” + +And also the poet Horace: + + “—scilicet improbæ + Crescunt divitiæ, tamen + Curtæ nescio quid semper abest rei. + Crescentem sequitur cura pecuniam + Majorumque fames.” + +To which purpose the poet Lucan says: + + “—O vitæ tuta facultas + Pauperis, angustique lares, o munera nondum + Intellecta Deûm!” + +And Petronius: + + “Non bibit inter aquas nec poma fugacia carpit + Tantalus infelix, quem sua vota premunt. + Divitis hic magni facies erit, omnia late + Qui tenet, et sicco concoquit ore famem.” + +The mountains are full of herds and horses, the woods well stored with +swine and goats, the pastures with sheep, the plains with cattle, the +arable fields with ploughs; and although these things in very deed are in +great abundance, yet each of them, from the insatiable nature of the +mind, seems too narrow and scanty. Therefore lands are seized, landmarks +removed, boundaries invaded, and the markets in consequence abound with +merchandise, the courts of justice with law-suits, and the senate with +complaints. Concerning such things, we read in Isaiah, “Woe unto them +that join house to house, that lay field to field, till there be no +place, that they be placed alone in the midst of the earth.” + +If therefore, the prophet inveighs so much against those who proceed to +the boundaries, what would he say to those who go far beyond them? From +these and other causes, the true colour of religion was so converted into +the dye of falsehood, that manners internally black assumed a fair +exterior: + + “Qui color albus erat, nunc est contrarius albo.” + +So that the scripture seems to be fulfilled concerning these men, “Beware +of false prophets, who come to you in sheep’s clothing, but inwardly they +are ravenous wolves.” But I am inclined to think this avidity does not +proceed from any bad intention. For the monks of this Order (although +themselves most abstemious) incessantly exercise, more than any others, +the acts of charity and beneficence towards the poor and strangers; and +because they do not live as others upon fixed incomes, but depend only on +their labour and forethought for subsistence, they are anxious to obtain +lands, farms, and pastures, which may enable them to perform these acts +of hospitality. However, to repress and remove from this sacred Order +the detestable stigma of ambition, I wish they would sometimes call to +mind what is written in Ecclesiasticus, “Whoso bringeth an offering of +the goods of the poor, doth as one that killeth the son before his +father’s eyes;” and also the sentiment of Gregory, “A good use does not +justify things badly acquired;” and also that of Ambrose, “He who +wrongfully receives, that he may well dispense, is rather burthened than +assisted.” Such men seem to say with the Apostle, “Let us do evil that +good may come.” For it is written, “Mercy ought to be of such a nature +as may be received, not rejected, which may purge away sins, not make a +man guilty before the Lord, arising from your own just labours, not those +of other men.” Hear what Solomon says; “Honour the Lord from your just +labours.” What shall they say who have seized upon other men’s +possessions, and exercised charity? “O Lord! in thy name we have done +charitable deeds, we have fed the poor, clothed the naked, and hospitably +received the stranger:” to whom the Lord will answer; “Ye speak of what +ye have given away, but speak not of the rapine ye have committed; ye +relate concerning those ye have fed, and remember not those ye have +killed.” I have judged it proper to insert in this place an instance of +an answer which Richard, king of the English, made to Fulke, {41} a good +and holy man, by whom God in these our days has wrought many signs in the +kingdom of France. This man had among other things said to the king; +“You have three daughters, namely, Pride, Luxury, and Avarice; and as +long as they shall remain with you, you can never expect to be in favour +with God.” To which the king, after a short pause, replied: “I have +already given away those daughters in marriage: Pride to the Templars, +Luxury to the Black Monks, and Avarice to the White.” It is a remarkable +circumstance, or rather a miracle, concerning Lanthoni, that, although it +is on every side surrounded by lofty mountains, not stony or rocky, but +of a soft nature, and covered with grass, Parian stones are frequently +found there, and are called free-stones, from the facility with which +they admit of being cut and polished; and with these the church is +beautifully built. It is also wonderful, that when, after a diligent +search, all the stones have been removed from the mountains, and no more +can be found, upon another search, a few days afterwards, they reappear +in greater quantities to those who seek them. With respect to the two +Orders, the Cluniac and the Cistercian, this may be relied upon; although +the latter are possessed of fine buildings, with ample revenues and +estates, they will soon be reduced to poverty and destruction. To the +former, on the contrary, you would allot a barren desert and a solitary +wood; yet in a few years you will find them in possession of sumptuous +churches and houses, and encircled with an extensive property. The +difference of manners (as it appears to me) causes this contrast. For as +without meaning offence to either party, I shall speak the truth, the one +feels the benefits of sobriety, parsimony, and prudence, whilst the other +suffers from the bad effects of gluttony and intemperance: the one, like +bees, collect their stores into a heap, and unanimously agree in the +disposal of one well-regulated purse; the others pillage and divert to +improper uses the largesses which have been collected by divine +assistance, and by the bounties of the faithful; and whilst each +individual consults solely his own interest, the welfare of the community +suffers; since, as Sallust observes, “Small things increase by concord, +and the greatest are wasted by discord.” Besides, sooner than lessen the +number of one of the thirteen or fourteen dishes which they claim by +right of custom, or even in a time of scarcity or famine recede in the +smallest degree from their accustomed good fare, they would suffer the +richest lands and the best buildings of the monastery to become a prey to +usury, and the numerous poor to perish before their gates. + +The first of these Orders, at a time when there was a deficiency in +grain, with a laudable charity, not only gave away their flocks and +herds, but resigned to the poor one of the two dishes with which they +were always contented. But in these our days, in order to remove this +stain, it is ordained by the Cistercians, “That in future neither farms +nor pastures shall be purchased; and that they shall be satisfied with +those alone which have been freely and unconditionally bestowed upon +them.” This Order, therefore, being satisfied more than any other with +humble mediocrity, and, if not wholly, yet in a great degree checking +their ambition; and though placed in a worldly situation, yet avoiding, +as much as possible, its contagion; neither notorious for gluttony or +drunkenness, for luxury or lust; is fearful and ashamed of incurring +public scandal, as will be more fully explained in the book we mean (by +the grace of God) to write concerning the ecclesiastical Orders. + +In these temperate regions I have obtained (according to the usual +expression) a place of dignity, but no great omen of future pomp or +riches; and possessing a small residence {44a} near the castle of +Brecheinoc, well adapted to literary pursuits, and to the contemplation +of eternity, I envy not the riches of Croesus; happy and contented with +that mediocrity, which I prize far beyond all the perishable and +transitory things of this world. But let us return to our subject. + + + +CHAPTER IV +THE JOURNEY BY COED GRONO AND ABERGEVENNI + + +FROM thence {44b} we proceeded through the narrow, woody tract called the +bad pass of Coed Grono, leaving the noble monastery of Lanthoni, inclosed +by its mountains, on our left. The castle of Abergevenni is so called +from its situation at the confluence of the river Gevenni with the Usk. + +It happened a short time after the death of king Henry I., that Richard +de Clare, a nobleman of high birth, and lord of Cardiganshire, passed +this way on his journey from England into Wales, accompanied by Brian de +Wallingford, lord of this province, and many men-at-arms. At the passage +of Coed Grono, {45} and at the entrance into the wood, he dismissed him +and his attendants, though much against their will, and proceeded on his +journey unarmed; from too great a presumption of security, preceded only +by a minstrel and a singer, one accompanying the other on the fiddle. +The Welsh awaiting his arrival, with Iorwerth, brother of Morgan of +Caerleon, at their head, and others of his family, rushed upon him +unawares from the thickets, and killed him and many of his followers. +Thus it appears how incautious and neglectful of itself is too great +presumption; for fear teaches foresight and caution in prosperity, but +audacity is precipitate, and inconsiderate rashness will not await the +advice of the leader. + +A sermon having been delivered at Abergevenni, {46} and many persons +converted to the cross, a certain nobleman of those parts, named +Arthenus, came to the archbishop, who was proceeding towards the castle +of Usk, and humbly begged pardon for having neglected to meet him sooner. +Being questioned whether he would take the cross, he replied, “That ought +not be done without the advice of his friends.” The archbishop then +asked him, “Are you not going to consult your wife?” To which he +modestly answered, with a downcast look, “When the work of a man is to be +undertaken, the counsel of a woman ought not to be asked;” and instantly +received the cross from the archbishop. + +We leave to others the relation of those frequent and cruel excesses +which in our times have arisen amongst the inhabitants of these parts, +against the governors of castles, and the vindictive retaliations of the +governors against the natives. But king Henry II. was the true author, +and Ranulf Poer, sheriff of Hereford, the instrument, of the enormous +cruelties and slaughter perpetrated here in our days, which I thought +better to omit, lest bad men should be induced to follow the example; for +although temporary advantage may seem to arise from a base cause, yet, by +the balance of a righteous judge, the punishment of wickedness may be +deferred, though not totally avoided, according to the words of the +poet,— + + “Non habet eventus sordida præda bonos.” + +For after seven years of peace and tranquillity, the sons and grandsons +of the deceased, having attained the age of manhood, took advantage of +the absence of the lord of the castle (Abergevenni), and, burning with +revenge, concealed themselves, with no inconsiderable force during the +night, within the woody foss of the castle. One of them, name Sisillus +(Sitsylt) son of Eudaf, on the preceding day said rather jocularly to the +constable, “Here will we enter this night,” pointing out to him a certain +angle in the wall where it seemed the lowest; but since + + “—Ridendo dicere verum + Quis vetat?” + +and + + “—fas est et ab hoste doceri,” + +the constable and his household watched all night under arms, till at +length, worn out by fatigue, they all retired to rest on the appearance +of daylight, upon which the enemy attacked the walls with +scaling-ladders, at the very place that had been pointed out. The +constable and his wife were taken prisoners, with many others, a few +persons only escaping, who had sheltered themselves in the principal +tower. With the exception of this stronghold, the enemy violently seized +and burned everything; and thus, by the righteous judgment of God, the +crime was punished in the very place where it had been committed. A +short time after the taking of this fortress, when the aforesaid sheriff +was building a castle at Landinegat, {48} near Monmouth, with the +assistance of the army he had brought from Hereford, he was attacked at +break of day, when + + “Tythoni croceum linquens Aurora cubile” + +was only beginning to divest herself of the shades of night, by the young +men from Gwent and the adjacent parts, with the descendants of those who +had been slain. Through aware of this premeditated attack, and prepared +and drawn up in battle array, they were nevertheless repulsed within +their intrenchments, and the sheriff, together with nine of the chief men +of Hereford, and many others, were pierced to death with lances. It is +remarkable that, although Ranulf, besides many other mortal wounds, had +the veins and arteries of his neck and his windpipe separated with a +sword, he made signs for a priest, and from the merit of his past life, +and the honour and veneration he had shewn to those chosen into the +sacred order of Christ, he was confessed, and received extreme unction +before he died. And, indeed, many events concur to prove that, as those +who respect the priesthood, in their latter days enjoy the satisfaction +of friendly intercourse, so do their revilers and accusers often die +without that consolation. William de Braose, who was not the author of +the crime we have preferred passing over in silence, but the executioner, +or, rather, not the preventer of its execution, while the murderous bands +were fulfilling the orders they had received, was precipitated into a +deep foss, and being taken by the enemy, was drawn forth, and only by a +sudden effort of his own troops, and by divine mercy, escaped uninjured. +Hence it is evident that he who offends in a less degree, and unwillingly +permits a thing to be done, is more mildly punished than he who adds +counsel and authority to his act. Thus, in the sufferings of Christ, +Judas was punished with hanging, the Jews with destruction and +banishment, and Pilate with exile. But the end of the king, who assented +to and ordered this treachery, sufficiently manifested in what manner, on +account of this and many other enormities he had committed (as in the +book “De Instructione Principis,” by God’s guidance, we shall set forth), +he began with accumulated ignominy, sorrow, and confusion, to suffer +punishment in this world. {49a} + +It seems worthy of remark, that the people of what is called Venta {49b} +are more accustomed to war, more famous for valour, and more expert in +archery, than those of any other part of Wales. The following examples +prove the truth of this assertion. In the last capture of the aforesaid +castle, which happened in our days, two soldiers passing over a bridge to +take refuge in a tower built on a mound of earth, the Welsh, taking them +in the rear, penetrated with their arrows the oaken portal of the tower, +which was four fingers thick; in memory of which circumstance, the arrows +were preserved in the gate. William de Braose also testifies that one of +his soldiers, in a conflict with the Welsh, was wounded by an arrow, +which passed through his thigh and the armour with which it was cased on +both sides, and, through that part of the saddle which is called the +_alva_, mortally wounded the horse. Another soldier had his hip, equally +sheathed in armour, penetrated by an arrow quite to the saddle, and on +turning his horse round, received a similar wound on the opposite hip, +which fixed him on both sides of his seat. What more could be expected +from a balista? Yet the bows used by this people are not made of horn, +ivory, or yew, but of wild elm; unpolished, rude, and uncouth, but stout; +not calculated to shoot an arrow to a great distance, but to inflict very +severe wounds in close fight. + +But let us again return to our Itinerary. + + + +CHAPTER V +OF THE PROGRESS BY THE CASTLE OF USK AND THE TOWN OF CAERLEON + + +AT the castle of Usk, a multitude of persons influenced by the +archbishop’s sermon, and by the exhortations of the good and worthy +William bishop of Landaf, {50a} who faithfully accompanied us through his +diocese, were signed with the cross; Alexander archdeacon of Bangor {50b} +acting as interpreter to the Welsh. It is remarkable that many of the +most notorious murderers, thieves, and robbers of the neighbourhood were +here converted, to the astonishment of the spectators. Passing from +thence through Caerleon and leaving far on our left hand the castle of +Monmouth, and the noble forest of Dean, situated on the other side of the +Wye and on this side the Severn, and which amply supplies Gloucester with +iron and venison, we spent the night at Newport, having crossed the river +Usk three times. {50c} Caerleon means the city of Legions, Caer, in the +British language, signifying a city or camp, for there the Roman legions, +sent into this island, were accustomed to winter, and from this +circumstance it was styled the city of legions. This city was of +undoubted antiquity, and handsomely built of masonry, with courses of +bricks, by the Romans. Many vestiges of its former splendour may yet be +seen; immense palaces, formerly ornamented with gilded roofs, in +imitation of Roman magnificence, inasmuch as they were first raised by +the Roman princes, and embellished with splendid buildings; a tower of +prodigious size, remarkable hot baths, relics of temples, and theatres, +all inclosed within fine walls, parts of which remain standing. You will +find on all sides, both within and without the circuit of the walls, +subterraneous buildings, aqueducts, underground passages; and what I +think worthy of notice, stoves contrived with wonderful art, to transmit +the heat insensibly through narrow tubes passing up the side walls. + +Julius and Aaron, after suffering martyrdom, were buried in this city, +and had each a church dedicated to him. After Albanus and Amphibalus, +they were esteemed the chief protomartyrs of Britannia Major. In ancient +times there were three fine churches in this city: one dedicated to +Julius the martyr, graced with a choir of nuns; another to Aaron, his +associate, and ennobled with an order of canons; and the third +distinguished as the metropolitan of Wales. Amphibalus, the instructor +of Albanus in the true faith, was born in this place. This city is well +situated on the river Usk, navigable to the sea, and adorned with woods +and meadows. The Roman ambassadors here received their audience at the +court of the great king Arthur; and here also, the archbishop Dubricius +ceded his honours to David of Menevia, the metropolitan see being +translated from this place to Menevia, according to the prophecy of +Merlin Ambrosius. “Menevia pallio urbis Legionum induetur.” “Menevia +shall be invested with the pall of the city of Legions.” + +Not far hence is a rocky eminence, impending over the Severn, called by +the English Gouldcliffe {51} or golden rock, because from the reflections +of the sun’s rays it assumes a bright golden colour: + + “Nec mihi de facili fieri persuasio posset, + Quod frustra tantum dederit natura nito rem + Saxis, quodque suo fuerit flos hic sine fructu.” + +Nor can I be easily persuaded that nature hath given such splendour to +the rocks in vain, and that this flower should be without fruit, if any +one would take the pains to penetrate deeply into the bowels of the +earth; if any one, I say, would extract honey from the rock, and oil from +the stone. Indeed many riches of nature lie concealed through +inattention, which the diligence of posterity will bring to light; for, +as necessity first taught the ancients to discover the conveniences of +life, so industry, and a greater acuteness of intellect, have laid open +many things to the moderns; as the poet says, assigning two causes for +these discoveries, + + “—labor omnia vincit + Improbus, et duris urgens in rebus egestas.” + +It is worthy of observation, that there lived in the neighbourhood of +this City of Legions, in our time, a Welshman named Melerius, who, under +the following circumstances, acquired the knowledge of future and occult +events. Having, on a certain night, namely that of Palm Sunday, met a +damsel whom he had long loved, in a pleasant and convenient place, while +he was indulging in her embraces, suddenly, instead of a beautiful girl, +he found in his arms a hairy, rough, and hideous creature, the sight of +which deprived him of his senses, and he became mad. After remaining +many years in this condition, he was restored to health in the church of +St. David’s, through the merits of its saints. But having always an +extraordinary familiarity with unclean spirits, by seeing them, knowing +them, talking with them, and calling each by his proper name, he was +enabled, through their assistance, to foretel future events. He was, +indeed, often deceived (as they are) with respect to circumstances at a +great distance of time or place, but was less mistaken in affairs which +were likely to happen nearer, or within the space of a year. The spirits +appeared to him, usually on foot, equipped as hunters, with horns +suspended from their necks, and truly as hunters, not of animals, but of +souls. He particularly met them near monasteries and monastic cells; for +where rebellion exists, there is the greatest need of armies and +strength. He knew when any one spoke falsely in his presence, for he saw +the devil, as it were, leaping and exulting upon the tongue of the liar. +If he looked on a book faultily or falsely written, or containing a false +passage, although wholly illiterate, he would point out the place with +his finger. Being questioned how he could gain such knowledge, he said +that he was directed by the demon’s finger to the place. In the same +manner, entering into the dormitory of a monastery, he indicated the bed +of any monk not sincerely devoted to religion. He said, that the spirit +of gluttony and surfeit was in every respect sordid; but that the spirit +of luxury and lust was more beautiful than others in appearance, though +in fact most foul. If the evil spirits oppressed him too much, the +Gospel of St. John was placed on his bosom, when, like birds, they +immediately vanished; but when that book was removed, and the History of +the Britons, by Geoffrey Arthur, {53} was substituted in its place, they +instantly reappeared in greater numbers, and remained a longer time than +usual on his body and on the book. + +It is worthy of remark, that Barnabas placed the Gospel of St. Matthew +upon sick persons, and they were healed; from which, as well as from the +foregoing circumstance, it appears how great a dignity and reverence is +due to the sacred books of the gospel, and with what danger and risk of +damnation every one who swears falsely by them, deviates from the paths +of truth. The fall of Enoch, abbot of Strata Marcella, {54} too well +known in Wales, was revealed to many the day after it happened, by +Melerius, who, being asked how he knew this circumstance, said, that a +demon came to him disguised as a hunter, and, exulting in the prospect of +such a victory, foretold the ruin of the abbot, and explained in what +manner he would make him run away with a nun from the monastery. The end +in view was probably the humiliation and correction of the abbot, as was +proved from his shortly returning home so humbled and amended, that he +scarcely could be said to have erred. Seneca says, “He falls not badly, +who rises stronger from his fall.” Peter was more strenuous after his +denial of Christ, and Paul after being stoned; since, where sin abounds, +there will grace also superabound. Mary Magdalen was strengthened after +her frailty. He secretly revealed to Canon, the good and religious abbot +of Alba-domus, his opinion of a certain woman whom he had seen; upon +which the holy man confessed, with tears in his eyes, his predilection +for her, and received from three priests the discipline of incontinence. +For as that long and experienced subtle enemy, by arguing from certain +conjectural signs, may foretell future by past events, so by insidious +treachery and contrivance, added to exterior appearances, he may +sometimes be able to discover the interior workings of the mind. + +At the same time there was in Lower Gwent a demon incubus, who, from his +love for a certain young woman, and frequenting the place where she +lived, often conversed with men, and frequently discovered hidden things +and future events. Melerius being interrogated concerning him, said he +knew him well, and mentioned his name. He affirmed that unclean spirits +conversed with mankind before war, or any great internal disturbance, +which was shortly afterwards proved, by the destruction of the province +by Howel, son of Iorwerth of Caerleon. At the same time, when king Henry +II., having taken the king of Scotland prisoner, had restored peace to +his kingdom, Howel, fearful of the royal revenge for the war he had +waged, was relieved from his difficulties by these comfortable words of +Melerius: “Fear not,” says he, “Howel, the wrath of the king, since he +must go into other parts. An important city which he possesses beyond +sea is now besieged by the king of France, on which account he will +postpone every other business, and hasten thither with all possible +expedition.” Three days afterwards, Howel received advice that this +event had really come to pass, owing to the siege of the city of Rouen. +He forewarned also Howel of the betraying of his castle at Usk, a long +time before it happened, and informed him that he should be wounded, but +not mortally; and that he should escape alive from the town. In this +alone he was deceived, for he soon after died of the same wound. Thus +does that archenemy favour his friends for a time, and thus does he at +last reward them. + +In all these singular events it appears to me most wonderful that he saw +those spirits so plainly with his carnal eyes, because spirits cannot be +discerned by the eyes of mortals, unless they assume a corporeal +substance; but if in order to be seen they had assumed such a substance, +how could they remain unperceived by other persons who were present? +Perhaps they were seen by such a miraculous vision as when king Balthazar +saw the hand of one writing on the wall, “Mane, Techel, Phares,” that is, +weighed, numbered, divided; who in the same night lost both his kingdom +and his life. But Cambria well knows how in these districts, from a +blind desire of dominion, a total dissolution of the endearing ties of +consanguinity, and a bad and depraved example diffused throughout the +country, good faith has been so shamefully perverted and abused. + + + +CHAPTER VI +NEWPORT AND CAERDYF + + +AT Newport, where the river Usk, descending from its original source in +Cantref Bachan, falls into the sea, many persons were induced to take the +cross. Having passed the river Remni, we approached the noble castle of +Caerdyf, {56a} situated on the banks of the river Taf. In the +neighbourhood of Newport, which is in the district of Gwentluc, {56b} +there is a small stream called Nant Pencarn, {56c} passable only at +certain fords, not so much owing to the depth of its waters, as from the +hollowness of its channel and muddy bottom. The public road led formerly +to a ford, called Ryd Pencarn, that is, the ford under the head of a +rock, from Rhyd, which in the British language signifies a ford, Pen, the +head, and Cam, a rock; of which place Merlin Sylvester had thus +prophesied: “Whenever you shall see a mighty prince with a freckled face +make an hostile irruption into the southern part of Britain, should he +cross the ford of Pencarn, then know ye, that the force of Cambria shall +be brought low.” Now it came to pass in our times, that king Henry II. +took up arms against Rhys, the son of Gruffydd, and directed his march +through the southern part of Wales towards Caermardyn. On the day he +intended to pass over Nant Pentcarn, the old Britons of the neighbourhood +watched his approach towards the ford with the utmost solicitude; +knowing, since he was both mighty and freckled, that if the passage of +the destined ford was accomplished, the prophecy concerning him would +undoubtedly be fulfilled. When the king had followed the road leading to +a more modern ford of the river (the old one spoken of in the prophecy +having been for a long time in disuse), and was preparing to pass over, +the pipers and trumpeters, called Cornhiriet, from _hir_, long, and +_cornu_, a horn, began to sound their instruments on the opposite bank, +in honour of the king. The king’s horse, startling at the wild, unusual +noise, refused to obey the spur, and enter the water; upon which, the +king, gathering up the reins, hastened, in violent wrath, to the ancient +ford, which he rapidly passed; and the Britons returned to their homes, +alarmed and dismayed at the destruction which seemed to await them. An +extraordinary circumstance occurred likewise at the castle of Caerdyf. +William earl of Gloucester, son of earl Robert, {57} who, besides that +castle, possessed by hereditary right all the province of Gwladvorgan, +{58a} that is, the land of Morgan, had a dispute with one of his +dependants, whose name was Ivor the Little, being a man of short stature, +but of great courage. This man was, after the manner of the Welsh, owner +of a tract of mountainous and woody country, of the whole, or a part of +which, the earl endeavoured to deprive him. At that time the castle of +Caerdyf was surrounded with high walls, guarded by one hundred and twenty +men-at-arms, a numerous body of archers, and a strong watch. The city +also contained many stipendiary soldiers; yet, in defiance of all these +precautions of security, Ivor, in the dead of night, secretly scaled the +walls, and, seizing the count and countess, with their only son, carried +them off into the woods, and did not release them until he had recovered +everything that had been unjustly taken from him, and received a +compensation of additional property; for, as the poet observes, + + “Spectandum est semper ne magna injuria fiat + Fortibus et miseris; tollas licet omne quod usquam est + Argenti atque auri, spoliatis arma supersunt.” + +In this same town of Caerdyf, king Henry II., on his return from Ireland, +the first Sunday after Easter, passed the night. In the morning, having +heard mass, he remained at his devotions till every one had quitted the +chapel of St. Piranus. {58b} As he mounted his horse at the door, a man +of a fair complexion, with a round tonsure and meagre countenance, tall, +and about forty years of age, habited in a white robe falling down to his +naked feet, thus addressed him in the Teutonic tongue: “God hold the, +cuing,” which signifies, “May God protect you, king;” and proceeded, in +the same language, “Christ and his Holy Mother, John the Baptist, and the +Apostle Peter salute thee, and command thee strictly to prohibit +throughout thy whole dominions every kind of buying or selling on +Sundays, and not to suffer any work to be done on those days, except such +as relates to the preparation of daily food; that due attention may be +paid to the performance of the divine offices. If thou dost this, all +thy undertakings shall be successful, and thou shalt lead a happy life.” +The king, in French, desired Philip de Mercros, {59} who held the reins +of his horse, to ask the rustic if he had dreamt this? and when the +soldier explained to him the king’s question in English, he replied in +the same language he had before used, “Whether I have dreamt it or not, +observe what day this is (addressing himself to the king, not to the +interpreter), and unless thou shalt do so, and quickly amend thy life, +before the expiration of one year, thou shalt hear such things concerning +what thou lovest best in this world, and shalt thereby be so much +troubled, that thy disquietude shall continue to thy life’s end.” The +king, spurring his horse, proceeded a little way towards the gate, when, +stopping suddenly, he ordered his attendants to call the good man back. +The soldier, and a young man named William, the only persons who remained +with the king, accordingly called him, and sought him in vain in the +chapel, and in all the inns of the city. The king, vexed that he had not +spoken more to him, waited alone a long time, while other persons went in +search of him; and when he could not be found, pursued his journey over +the bridge of Remni to Newport. The fatal prediction came to pass within +the year, as the man had threatened; for the king’s three sons, Henry, +the eldest, and his brothers, Richard of Poitou, and Geoffrey, count of +Britany, in the following Lent, deserted to Louis king of France, which +caused the king greater uneasiness than he had ever before experienced; +and which, by the conduct of some one of his sons, was continued till the +time of his decease. This monarch, through divine mercy (for God is more +desirous of the conversion than the destruction of a sinner), received +many other admonitions and reproofs about this time, and shortly before +his death; all of which, being utterly incorrigible, he obstinately and +obdurately despised, as will be more fully set forth (by the favour of +God) in my book, “de Principis Instructione.” + +Not far from Caerdyf is a small island situated near the shore of the +Severn, called Barri, from St. Baroc {60} who formerly lived there, and +whose remains are deposited in a chapel overgrown with ivy, having been +transferred to a coffin. From hence a noble family, of the maritime +parts of South Wales, who owned this island and the adjoining estates, +received the name of de Barri. It is remarkable that, in a rock near the +entrance of the island, there is a small cavity, to which, if the ear is +applied, a noise is heard like that of smiths at work, the blowing of +bellows, strokes of hammers, grinding of tools, and roaring of furnaces; +and it might easily be imagined that such noises, which are continued at +the ebb and flow of the tides, were occasioned by the influx of the sea +under the cavities of the rocks. + + + +CHAPTER VII +THE SEE OF LANDAF AND MONASTERY OF MARGAN, AND THE REMARKABLE THINGS IN +THOSE PARTS + + +ON the following morning, the business of the cross being publicly +proclaimed at Landaf, the English standing on one side, and the Welsh on +the other, many persons of each nation took the cross, and we remained +there that night with William bishop of that place, {61a} a discreet and +good man. The word Landaf {61b} signifies the church situated upon the +river Taf, and is now called the church of St. Teileau, formerly bishop +of that see. The archbishop having celebrated mass early in the morning, +before the high altar of the cathedral, we immediately pursued our +journey by the little cell of Ewenith {61c} to the noble Cistercian +monastery of Margan. {62} This monastery, under the direction of Conan, +a learned and prudent abbot, was at this time more celebrated for its +charitable deeds than any other of that order in Wales. On this account, +it is an undoubted fact, that, as a reward for that abundant charity +which the monastery had always, in times of need, exercised towards +strangers and poor persons, in a season of approaching famine, their corn +and provisions were perceptibly, by divine assistance, increased, like +the widow’s cruise of oil by the means of the prophet Elijah. About the +time of its foundation, a young man of those parts, by birth a Welshman, +having claimed and endeavoured to apply to his own use certain lands +which had been given to the monastery, by the instigation of the devil +set on fire the best barn belonging to the monks, which was filled with +corn; but, immediately becoming mad, he ran about the country in a +distracted state, nor ceased raving until he was seized by his parents +and bound. Having burst his bonds, and tired out his keepers, he came +the next morning to the gate of the monastery, incessantly howling out +that he was inwardly burnt by the influence of the monks, and thus in a +few days expired, uttering the most miserable complaints. It happened +also, that a young man was struck by another in the guests’ hall; but on +the following day, by divine vengeance, the aggressor was, in the +presence of the fraternity, killed by an enemy, and his lifeless body was +laid out in the same spot in the hall where the sacred house had been +violated. In our time too, in a period of scarcity, while great +multitudes of poor were daily crowding before the gates for relief, by +the unanimous consent of the brethren, a ship was sent to Bristol to +purchase corn for charitable purposes. The vessel, delayed by contrary +winds, and not returning (but rather affording an opportunity for the +miracle), on the very day when there would have been a total deficiency +of corn, both for the poor and the convent, a field near the monastery +was found suddenly to ripen, more than a month before the usual time of +harvest: thus, divine Providence supplied the brotherhood and the +numerous poor with sufficient nourishment until autumn. By these and +other signs of virtues, the place accepted by God began to be generally +esteemed and venerated. + +It came to pass also in our days, during the period when the four sons of +Caradoc son of Iestin, and nephews of prince Rhys by his sister, namely, +Morgan, Meredyth, Owen, and Cadwallon, bore rule for their father in +those parts, that Cadwallon, through inveterate malice, slew his brother +Owen. But divine vengeance soon overtook him; for on his making a +hostile attack on a certain castle, he was crushed to pieces by the +sudden fall of its walls: and thus, in the presence of a numerous body of +his own and his brother’s forces, suffered the punishment which his +barbarous and unnatural conduct had so justly merited. + +Another circumstance which happened here deserves notice. A greyhound +belonging to the aforesaid Owen, large, beautiful, and curiously spotted +with a variety of colours, received seven wounds from arrows and lances, +in the defence of his master, and on his part did much injury to the +enemy and assassins. When his wounds were healed, he was sent to king +Henry II. by William earl of Gloucester, in testimony of so great and +extraordinary a deed. A dog, of all animals, is most attached to man, +and most easily distinguishes him; sometimes, when deprived of his +master, he refuses to live, and in his master’s defence is bold enough to +brave death; ready, therefore, to die, either with or for his master. I +do not think it superfluous to insert here an example which Suetonius +gives in his book on the nature of animals, and which Ambrosius also +relates in his Exameron. “A man, accompanied by a dog, was killed in a +remote part of the city of Antioch, by a soldier, for the sake of +plunder. The murderer, concealed by the darkness of the morning, escaped +into another part of the city; the corpse lay unburied; a large concourse +of people assembled; and the dog, with bitter howlings, lamented his +master’s fate. The murderer, by chance, passed that way, and, in order +to prove his innocence, mingled with the crowd of spectators, and, as if +moved by compassion, approached the body of the deceased. The dog, +suspending for a while his moans, assumed the arms of revenge; rushed +upon the man, and seized him, howling at the same time in so dolorous a +manner, that all present shed tears. It was considered as a proof +against the murderer, that the dog seized him from amongst so many, and +would not let him go; and especially, as neither the crime of hatred, +envy, or injury, could possibly, in this case, be urged against the dog. +On account, therefore, of such a strong suspicion of murder (which the +soldier constantly denied), it was determined that the truth of the +matter should be tried by combat. The parties being assembled in a +field, with a crowd of people around, the dog on one side, and the +soldier, armed with a stick of a cubit’s length, on the other, the +murderer was at length overcome by the victorious dog, and suffered an +ignominious death on the common gallows.” + +Pliny and Solinus relate that a certain king, who was very fond of dogs, +and addicted to hunting, was taken and imprisoned by his enemies, and in +a most wonderful manner liberated, without any assistance from his +friends, by a pack of dogs, who had spontaneously sequestered themselves +in the mountainous and woody regions, and from thence committed many +atrocious acts of depredation on the neighbouring herds and flocks. I +shall take this opportunity of mentioning what from experience and ocular +testimony I have observed respecting the nature of dogs. A dog is in +general sagacious, but particularly with respect to his master; for when +he has for some time lost him in a crowd, he depends more upon his nose +than upon his eyes; and, in endeavouring to find him, he first looks +about, and then applies his nose, for greater certainty, to his clothes, +as if nature had placed all the powers of infallibility in that feature. +The tongue of a dog possesses a medicinal quality; the wolf’s, on the +contrary, a poisonous: the dog heals his wounds by licking them, the +wolf, by a similar practice, infects them; and the dog, if he has +received a wound in his neck or head, or any part of his body where he +cannot apply his tongue, ingeniously makes use of his hinder foot as a +conveyance of the healing qualities to the parts affected. + + + +CHAPTER VIII +PASSAGE OF THE RIVERS AVON AND NETH—AND OF ABERTAWE AND GOER + + +CONTINUING our journey, {65} not far from Margan, where the alternate +vicissitudes of a sandy shore and the tide commence, we forded over the +river Avon, having been considerably delayed by the ebbing of the sea; +and under the guidance of Morgan, eldest son of Caradoc, proceeded along +the sea-shore towards the river Neth, which, on account of its +quicksands, is the most dangerous and inaccessible river in South Wales. +A pack-horse belonging to the author, which had proceeded by the lower +way near the sea, although in the midst of many others, was the only one +which sunk down into the abyss, but he was at last, with great +difficulty, extricated, and not without some damage done to the baggage +and books. Yet, although we had Morgan, the prince of that country, as +our conductor, we did not reach the river without great peril, and some +severe falls; for the alarm occasioned by this unusual kind of road, made +us hasten our steps over the quicksands, in opposition to the advice of +our guide, and fear quickened our pace; whereas, through these difficult +passages, as we there learned, the mode of proceeding should be with +moderate speed. But as the fords of that river experience a change by +every monthly tide, and cannot be found after violent rains and floods, +we did not attempt the ford, but passed the river in a boat, leaving the +monastery of Neth {66} on our right hand, approaching again to the +district of St. David’s, and leaving the diocese of Landaf (which we had +entered at Abergevenny) behind us. + +It happened in our days that David II., bishop of St. David’s, passing +this way, and finding the ford agitated by a recent storm, a chaplain of +those parts, named Rotherch Falcus, being conversant in the proper method +of crossing these rivers, undertook, at the desire of the bishop, the +dangerous task of trying the ford. Having mounted a large and powerful +horse, which had been selected from the whole train for this purpose, he +immediately crossed the ford, and fled with great rapidity to the +neighbouring woods, nor could he be induced to return until the +suspension which he had lately incurred was removed, and a full promise +of security and indemnity obtained; the horse was then restored to one +party, and his service to the other. + +Entering the province called Goer, {67a} we spent the night at the castle +of Sweynsei, {67b} which in Welsh is called Abertawe, or the fall of the +river Tawe into the sea. The next morning, the people being assembled +after mass, and many having been induced to take the cross, an aged man +of that district, named Cador, thus addressed the archbishop: “My lord, +if I now enjoyed my former strength, and the vigour of youth, no alms +should ransom me, no desire of inactivity restrain me, from engaging in +the laudable undertaking you preach; but since my weak age and the +injuries of time deprive me of this desirable benefit (for approaching +years bring with them many comforts, which those that are passed take +away), if I cannot, owing to the infirmity of my body, attain a full +merit, yet suffer me, by giving a tenth of all I possess, to attain a +half.” Then falling down at the feet of the archbishop, he deposited in +his hands, for the service of the cross, the tenth of his estate, weeping +bitterly, and intreating from him the remission of one half of the +enjoined penance. After a short time he returned, and thus continued: +“My lord, if the will directs the action, and is itself, for the most +part, considered as the act, and as I have a full and firm inclination to +undertake this journey, I request a remission of the remaining part of +the penance, and in addition to my former gift, I will equal the sum from +the residue of my tenths.” The archbishop, smiling at his devout +ingenuity, embraced him with admiration. + +On the same night, two monks, who waited in the archbishop’s chamber, +conversing about the occurrences of their journey, and the dangers of the +road, one of them said (alluding to the wildness of the country), “This +is a hard province;” the other (alluding to the quicksands), wittily +replied, “Yet yesterday it was found too soft.” + +A short time before our days, a circumstance worthy of note occurred in +these parts, which Elidorus, a priest, most strenuously affirmed had +befallen himself. When a youth of twelve years, and learning his +letters, since, as Solomon says, “The root of learning is bitter, +although the fruit is sweet,” in order to avoid the discipline and +frequent stripes inflicted on him by his preceptor, he ran away, and +concealed himself under the hollow bank of a river. After fasting in +that situation for two days, two little men of pigmy stature appeared to +him, saying, “If you will come with us, we will lead you into a country +full of delights and sports.” Assenting and rising up, he followed his +guides through a path, at first subterraneous and dark, into a most +beautiful country, adorned with rivers and meadows, woods and plains, but +obscure, and not illuminated with the full light of the sun. All the +days were cloudy, and the nights extremely dark, on account of the +absence of the moon and stars. The boy was brought before the king, and +introduced to him in the presence of the court; who, having examined him +for a long time, delivered him to his son, who was then a boy. These men +were of the smallest stature, but very well proportioned in their make; +they were all of a fair complexion, with luxuriant hair falling over +their shoulders like that of women. They had horses and greyhounds +adapted to their size. They neither ate flesh nor fish, but lived on +milk diet, made up into messes with saffron. They never took an oath, +for they detested nothing so much as lies. As often as they returned +from our upper hemisphere, they reprobated our ambition, infidelities, +and inconstancies; they had no form of public worship, being strict +lovers and reverers, as it seemed, of truth. + +The boy frequently returned to our hemisphere, sometimes by the way he +had first gone, sometimes by another: at first in company with other +persons, and afterwards alone, and made himself known only to his mother, +declaring to her the manners, nature, and state of that people. Being +desired by her to bring a present of gold, with which that region +abounded, he stole, while at play with the king’s son, the golden ball +with which he used to divert himself, and brought it to his mother in +great haste; and when he reached the door of his father’s house, but not +unpursued, and was entering it in a great hurry, his foot stumbled on the +threshold, and falling down into the room where his mother was sitting, +the two pigmies seized the ball which had dropped from his hand, and +departed, shewing the boy every mark of contempt and derision. On +recovering from his fall, confounded with shame, and execrating the evil +counsel of his mother, he returned by the usual track to the +subterraneous road, but found no appearance of any passage, though he +searched for it on the banks of the river for nearly the space of a year. +But since those calamities are often alleviated by time, which reason +cannot mitigate, and length of time alone blunts the edge of our +afflictions, and puts an end to many evils, the youth having been brought +back by his friends and mother, and restored to his right way of +thinking, and to his learning, in process of time attained the rank of +priesthood. Whenever David II., bishop of St. David’s, talked to him in +his advanced state of life concerning this event, he could never relate +the particulars without shedding tears. He had made himself acquainted +with the language of that nation, the words of which, in his younger +days, he used to recite, which, as the bishop often had informed me, were +very conformable to the Greek idiom. When they asked for water, they +said Ydor ydorum, which meant bring water, for Ydor in their language, as +well as in the Greek, signifies water, from whence vessels for water are +called ὑδζιαι; and Dûr also, in the British language, signifies water. +When they wanted salt they said, Halgein ydorum, bring salt: salt is +called ἁλ in Greek, and Halen in British, for that language, from the +length of time which the Britons (then called Trojans, and afterwards +Britons, from Brito, their leader) remained in Greece after the +destruction of Troy, became, in many instances, similar to the Greek. + +It is remarkable that so many languages should correspond in one word, ἁλ +in Greek, Halen in British, and Halgein in the Irish tongue, the g being +inserted; Sal in Latin, because, as Priscian says, “the s is placed in +some words instead of an aspirate,” as ἁλς in Greek is called Sal in +Latin, ἑμι—semi—ἑπτα—septem—Sel in French—the _a_ being changed into +_e_—Salt in English, by the addition of _t_ to the Latin; Sout, in the +Teutonic language: there are therefore seven or eight languages agreeing +in this one word. If a scrupulous inquirer should ask my opinion of the +relation here inserted, I answer with Augustine, “that the divine +miracles are to be admired, not discussed.” Nor do I, by denial, place +bounds to the divine power, nor, by assent, insolently extend what cannot +be extended. But I always call to mind the saying of St. Jerome; “You +will find,” says he, “many things incredible and improbable, which +nevertheless are true; for nature cannot in any respect prevail against +the lord of nature.” These things, therefore, and similar contingencies, +I should place, according to the opinion of Augustine, among those +particulars which are neither to be affirmed, nor too positively denied. + + + +CHAPTER IX +PASSAGE OVER THE RIVERS LOCHOR AND WENDRAETH; AND OF CYDWELI + + +THENCE we proceeded towards the river Lochor, {71a} through the plains in +which Howel, son of Meredyth of Brecheinoc, after the decease of king +Henry I., gained a signal victory over the English. Having first crossed +the river Lochor, and afterwards the water called Wendraeth, {71b} we +arrived at the castle of Cydweli. {71c} In this district, after the +death of king Henry, whilst Gruffydd son of Rhys, the prince of South +Wales, was engaged in soliciting assistance from North Wales, his wife +Gwenliana (like the queen of the Amazons, and a second Penthesilea) led +an army into these parts; but she was defeated by Maurice de Londres, +lord of that country, and Geoffrey, the bishop’s constable. {72} Morgan, +one of her sons, whom she had arrogantly brought with her in that +expedition, was slain, and the other, Malgo, taken prisoner; and she, +with many of her followers, was put to death. During the reign of king +Henry I., when Wales enjoyed a state of tranquillity, the above-mentioned +Maurice had a forest in that neighbourhood, well stocked with wild +animals, and especially deer, and was extremely tenacious of his venison. +His wife (for women are often very expert in deceiving men) made use of +this curious stratagem. Her husband possessed, on the side of the wood +next the sea, some extensive pastures, and large flocks of sheep. Having +made all the shepherds and chief people in her house accomplices and +favourers of her design, and taking advantage of the simple courtesy of +her husband, she thus addressed him: “It is wonderful that being lord +over beasts, you have ceased to exercise dominion over them; and by not +making use of your deer, do not now rule over them, but are subservient +to them; and behold how great an abuse arises from too much patience; for +they attack our sheep with such an unheard-of rage, and unusual voracity, +that from many they are become few; from being innumerable, only +numerous.” To make her story more probable, she caused some wool to be +inserted between the intestines of two stags which had been embowelled; +and her husband, thus artfully deceived, sacrificed his deer to the +rapacity of his dogs. + + + +CHAPTER X +TYWY RIVER—CAERMARDYN—MONASTERY OF ALBELANDE + + +HAVING crossed the river Tywy in a boat, we proceeded towards Caermardyn, +leaving Lanstephan and Talachar {73a} on the sea-coast to our left. +After the death of king Henry II., Rhys, the son of Gruffydd, took these +two castles by assault; then, having laid waste, by fire and sword, the +provinces of Penbroch and Ros, he besieged Caermardyn, but failed in his +attempt. Caermardyn {73b} signifies the city of Merlin, because, +according to the British History, he was there said to have been begotten +of an incubus. + +This ancient city is situated on the banks of the noble river Tywy, +surrounded by woods and pastures, and was strongly inclosed with walls of +brick, part of which are still standing; having Cantref Mawr, the great +cantred, or hundred, on the eastern side, a safe refuge, in times of +danger, to the inhabitants of South Wales, on account of its thick woods; +where is also the castle of Dinevor, {73c} built on a lofty summit above +the Tywy, the royal seat of the princes of South Wales. In ancient +times, there were three regal palaces in Wales: Dinevor in South Wales, +Aberfrau in North Wales, situated in Anglesea, and Pengwern in Powys, now +called Shrewsbury (Slopesburia); Pengwern signifies the head of a grove +of alders. Recalling to mind those poetical passages: + + “Dolus an virtus quis in hoste requirat?” + +and + + “Et si non recte possis quocunque modo rem,” + +my pen shrinks with abhorrence from the relation of the enormous +vengeance exercised by the court against its vassals, within the comot of +Caeo, in the Cantref Mawr. Near Dinevor, on the other side of the river +Tywy, in the Cantref Bychan, or the little cantred, there is a spring +which, like the tide, ebbs and flows twice in twenty-four hours. {74a} +Not far to the north of Caermardyn, namely at Pencadair, {74b} that is, +the head of the chair, when Rhys, the son of Gruffydd, was more by +stratagem than force compelled to surrender, and was carried away into +England, king Henry II. despatched a knight, born in Britany, on whose +wisdom and fidelity he could rely, under the conduct of Guaidanus, dean +of Cantref Mawr, to explore the situation of Dinevor castle, and the +strength of the country. The priest, being desired to take the knight by +the easiest and best road to the castle, led him purposely aside by the +most difficult and inaccessible paths, and wherever they passed through +woods, the priest, to the general surprise of all present, fed upon +grass, asserting that, in times of need, the inhabitants of that country +were accustomed to live upon herbs and roots. The knight returning to +the king, and relating what had happened, affirmed that the country was +uninhabitable, vile, and inaccessible, and only affording food to a +beastly nation, living like brutes. At length the king released Rhys, +having first bound him to fealty by solemn oaths and the delivery of +hostages. + +On our journey from Caermardyn towards the Cistercian monastery called +Alba Domus, {75a} the archbishop was informed of the murder of a young +Welshman, who was devoutly hastening to meet him; when turning out of the +road, he ordered the corpse to be covered with the cloak of his almoner, +and with a pious supplication commended the soul of the murdered youth to +heaven. Twelve archers of the adjacent castle of St. Clare, {75b} who +had assassinated the young man, were on the following day signed with the +cross at Alba Domus, as a punishment for their crime. Having traversed +three rivers, the Taf, then the Cleddeu, under Lanwadein, {76a} and +afterwards another branch of the same river, we at length arrived at +Haverford. This province, from its situation between two rivers, has +acquired the name of Daugleddeu, {76b} being enclosed and terminated, as +it were, by two swords, for cleddue, in the British language, signifies a +sword. + + + +CHAPTER XI +OF HAVERFORD AND ROS + + +A SERMON having been delivered at Haverford {76c} by the archbishop, and +the word of God preached to the people by the archdeacon, whose name +appears on the title-page of this work, many soldiers and plebeians were +induced to take the cross. It appeared wonderful and miraculous, that, +although the archdeacon addressed them both in the Latin and French +tongues, those persons who understood neither of those languages were +equally affected, and flocked in great numbers to the cross. + +An old woman of those parts, who for three preceding years had been +blind, having heard of the archbishop’s arrival, sent her son to the +place where the sermon was to be preached, that he might bring back to +her some particle, if only of the fringe of his garment. The young man +being prevented by the crowd from approaching the archbishop, waited till +the assembly was dispersed, and then carried a piece of the earth on +which the preacher had stood. The mother received the gift with great +joy, and falling immediately on her knees, applied the turf to her mouth +and eyes; and thus, through the merits of the holy man, and her own faith +and devotion, recovered the blessing of sight, which she had entirely +lost. + +The inhabitants of this province derived their origin from Flanders, and +were sent by king Henry I. to inhabit these districts; a people brave and +robust, ever most hostile to the Welsh; a people, I say, well versed in +commerce and woollen manufactories; a people anxious to seek gain by sea +or land, in defiance of fatigue and danger; a hardy race, equally fitted +for the plough or the sword; a people brave and happy, if Wales (as it +ought to have been) had been dear to its sovereign, and had not so +frequently experienced the vindictive resentment and ill-treatment of its +governors. + +A circumstance happened in the castle of Haverford during our time, which +ought not to be omitted. A famous robber was fettered and confined in +one of its towers, and was often visited by three boys, the son of the +earl of Clare, and two others, one of whom was son of the lord of the +castle, and the other his grandson, sent thither for their education, and +who applied to him for arrows, with which he used to supply them. One +day, at the request of the children, the robber, being brought from his +dungeon, took advantage of the absence of the gaoler, closed the door, +and shut himself up with the boys. A great clamour instantly arose, as +well from the boys within, as from the people without; nor did he cease, +with an uplifted axe, to threaten the lives of the children, until +indemnity and security were assured to him in the most ample manner. A +similar accident happened at Chateau-roux in France. The lord of that +place maintained in the castle a man whose eyes he had formerly put out, +but who, by long habit, recollected the ways of the castle, and the steps +leading to the towers. Seizing an opportunity of revenge, and meditating +the destruction of the youth, he fastened the inward doors of the castle, +and took the only son and heir of the governor of the castle to the +summit of a high tower, from whence he was seen with the utmost concern +by the people beneath. The father of the boy hastened thither, and, +struck with terror, attempted by every possible means to procure the +ransom of his son, but received for answer, that this could not be +effected, but by the same mutilation of those lower parts, which he had +likewise inflicted on him. The father, having in vain entreated mercy, +at length assented, and caused a violent blow to be struck on his body; +and the people around him cried out lamentably, as if he had suffered +mutilation. The blind man asked him where he felt the greatest pain? +when he replied in his reins, he declared it was false and prepared to +precipitate the boy. A second blow was given, and the lord of the castle +asserting that the greatest pains were at his heart, the blind man +expressing his disbelief, again carried the boy to the summit of the +tower. The third time, however, the father, to save his son, really +mutilated himself; and when he exclaimed that the greatest pain was in +his teeth; “It is true,” said he, “as a man who has had experience should +be believed, and thou hast in part revenged my injuries. I shall meet +death with more satisfaction, and thou shalt neither beget any other son, +nor receive comfort from this.” Then, precipitating himself and the boy +from the summit of the tower, their limbs were broken, and both instantly +expired. The knight ordered a monastery to be built on the spot for the +soul of the boy, which is still extant, and called De Doloribus. + +It appears remarkable to me that the entire inheritance should devolve on +Richard, son of Tankard, governor of the aforesaid castle of Haverford, +being the youngest son, and having many brothers of distinguished +character who died before him. In like manner the dominion of South +Wales descended to Rhys son of Gruffyd, owing to the death of several of +his brothers. During the childhood of Richard, a holy man, named +Caradoc, led a pious and recluse life at St. Ismael, in the province of +Ros, {79a} to whom the boy was often sent by his parents with provisions, +and he so ingratiated himself in the eyes of the good man, that he very +often promised him, together with his blessing, the portion of all his +brothers, and the paternal inheritance. It happened that Richard, being +overtaken by a violent storm of rain, turned aside to the hermit’s cell; +and being unable to get his hounds near him, either by calling, coaxing, +or by offering them food, the holy man smiled; and making a gentle motion +with his hand, brought them all to him immediately. In process of time, +when Caradoc {79b} had happily completed the course of his existence, +Tankard, father of Richard, violently detained his body, which by his +last will he had bequeathed to the church of St. David; but being +suddenly seized with a severe illness, he revoked his command. When this +had happened to him a second and a third time, and the corpse at last was +suffered to be conveyed away, and was proceeding over the sands of +Niwegal towards St. David’s, a prodigious fall of rain inundated the +whole country; but the conductors of the sacred burthen, on coming forth +from their shelter, found the silken pall, with which the bier was +covered, dry and uninjured by the storm; and thus the miraculous body of +Caradoc was brought into the church of St. Andrew and St. David, and with +due solemnity deposited in the left aisle, near the altar of the holy +proto-martyr Stephen. + +It is worthy of remark, that these people (the Flemings), from the +inspection of the right shoulders of rams, which have been stripped of +their flesh, and not roasted, but boiled, can discover future events, or +those which have passed and remained long unknown. {80} They know, also, +what is transpiring at a distant place, by a wonderful art, and a +prophetic kind of spirit. They declare, also, by means of signs, the +undoubted symptoms of approaching peace and war, murders and fires, +domestic adulteries, the state of the king, his life and death. It +happened in our time, that a man of those parts, whose name was William +Mangunel, a person of high rank, and excelling all others in the +aforesaid art, had a wife big with child by her own husband’s grandson. +Well aware of the fact, he ordered a ram from his own flock to be sent to +his wife, as a present from her neighbour, which was carried to the cook, +and dressed. At dinner, the husband purposely gave the shoulder-bone of +the ram, properly cleaned, to his wife, who was also well skilled in this +art, for her examination; when, having for a short time examined the +secret marks, she smiled, and threw the oracle down on the table. Her +husband, dissembling, earnestly demanded the cause of her smiling, and +the explanation of the matter. Overcome by his entreaties, she answered: +“The man to whose fold this ram belongs, has an adulterous wife, at this +time pregnant by the commission of incest with his own grandson.” The +husband, with a sorrowful and dejected countenance, replied: “You +deliver, indeed, an oracle supported by too much truth, which I have so +much more reason to lament, as the ignominy you have published redounds +to my own injury.” The woman, thus detected, and unable to dissemble her +confusion, betrayed the inward feelings of her mind by external signs; +shame and sorrow urging her by turns, and manifesting themselves, now by +blushes, now by paleness, and lastly (according to the custom of women), +by tears. The shoulder of a goat was also once brought to a certain +person, instead of a ram’s—both being alike, when cleaned; who, observing +for a short time the lines and marks, exclaimed, “Unhappy cattle, that +never was multiplied! unhappy, likewise, the owner of the cattle, who +never had more than three or four in one flock!” Many persons, a year +and a half before the event, foresaw, by the means of shoulder-bones, the +destruction of their country, after the decease of king Henry I., and, +selling all their possessions, left their homes, and escaped the +impending ruin. + +It happened also in Flanders, from whence this people came, that a +certain man sent a similar bone to a neighbour for his inspection; and +the person who carried it, on passing over a ditch, broke wind, and +wished it in the nostrils of the man on whose account he was thus +troubled. The person to whom the bone was taken, on examination, said, +“May you have in your own nose, that which you wished to be in mine.” In +our time, a soothsayer, on the inspection of a bone, discovered not only +a theft, and the manner of it, but the thief himself, and all the +attendant circumstances; he heard also the striking of a bell, and the +sound of a trumpet, as if those things which were past were still +performing. It is wonderful, therefore, that these bones, like all +unlawful conjurations, should represent, by a counterfeit similitude to +the eyes and ears, things which are passed, as well as those which are +now going on. + + + +CHAPTER XII +OF PENBROCH + + +THE province of Penbroch adjoins the southern part of the territory of +Ros, and is separated from it by an arm of the sea. Its principal city, +and the metropolis of Demetia, is situated on an oblong rocky eminence, +extending with two branches from Milford Haven, from whence it derived +the name of Penbroch, which signifies the head of the æstuary. Arnulph +de Montgomery, {82a} in the reign of king Henry I., erected here a +slender fortress with stakes and turf, which, on returning to England, he +consigned to the care of Giraldus de Windesor, {82b} his constable and +lieutenant-general, a worthy and discreet man. Immediately on the death +of Rhys son of Tewdwr, who a short time before had been slain by the +treachery of his own troops at Brecheinoc, leaving his son, Gruffydd, a +child, the inhabitants of South Wales besieged the castle. One night, +when fifteen soldiers had deserted, and endeavoured to escape from the +castle in a small boat, on the following morning Giraldus invested their +armour bearers with the arms and estates of their masters, and decorated +them with the military order. The garrison being, from the length of the +siege, reduced to the utmost want of provisions, the constable, with +great prudence and flattering hopes of success, caused four hogs, which +yet remained, to be cut into small pieces and thrown down to the enemy +from the fortifications. The next day, having again recourse to a more +refined stratagem, he contrived that a letter, sealed with his own +signet, should be found before the house of Wilfred, {83} bishop of St. +David’s, who was then by chance in that neighbourhood, as if accidentally +dropped, stating that there would be no necessity of soliciting the +assistance of earl Arnulph for the next four months to come. The +contents of these letters being made known to the army, the troops +abandoned the siege of the castle, and retired to their own homes. +Giraldus, in order to make himself and his dependants more secure, +married Nest, the sister of Gruffydd, prince of South Wales, by whom he +had an illustrious progeny of both sexes; and by whose means both the +maritime parts of South Wales were retained by the English, and the walls +of Ireland afterwards stormed, as our Vaticinal History declares. + +In our time, a person residing at the castle of Penbroch, found a brood +of young weasels concealed within a fleece in his dwelling house, which +he carefully removed and hid. The mother, irritated at the loss of her +young, which she had searched for in vain, went to a vessel of milk that +had been set aside for the use of the master’s son, and raising herself +up, polluted it with her deadly poison; thus revenging, as it were, the +loss of her young, by the destruction of the child. The man, observing +what passed, carried the fleece back to its former place; when the +weasel, agitated by maternal solicitude, between hope and fear, on +finding again her young, began to testify her joy by her cries and +actions, and returning quickly to the vessel, overthrew it; thus, in +gratitude for the recovery of her own offspring, saving that of her host +from danger. + +In another place, an animal of the same species had brought out her young +into a plain for the enjoyment of the sun and air; when an insidious kite +carried off one of them. Concealing herself with the remainder behind +some shrubs, grief suggested to her a stratagem of exquisite revenge; she +extended herself on a heap of earth, as if dead, within sight of the +plunderer, and (as success always increases avidity) the bird immediately +seized her and flew away, but soon fell down dead by the bite of the +poisonous animal. + +The castle called Maenor Pyrr, {84} that is, the mansion of Pyrrus, who +also possessed the island of Chaldey, which the Welsh call Inys Pyrr, or +the island of Pyrrus, is distant about three miles from Penbroch. It is +excellently well defended by turrets and bulwarks, and is situated on the +summit of a hill extending on the western side towards the sea-port, +having on the northern and southern sides a fine fish-pond under its +walls, as conspicuous for its grand appearance, as for the depth of its +waters, and a beautiful orchard on the same side, inclosed on one part by +a vineyard, and on the other by a wood, remarkable for the projection of +its rocks, and the height of its hazel trees. On the right hand of the +promontory, between the castle and the church, near the site of a very +large lake and mill, a rivulet of never-failing water flows through a +valley, rendered sandy by the violence of the winds. Towards the west, +the Severn sea, bending its course to Ireland, enters a hollow bay at +some distance from the castle; and the southern rocks, if extended a +little further towards the north, would render it a most excellent +harbour for shipping. From this point of sight, you will see almost all +the ships from Great Britain, which the east wind drives upon the Irish +coast, daringly brave the inconstant waves and raging sea. This country +is well supplied with corn, sea-fish, and imported wines; and what is +preferable to every other advantage, from its vicinity to Ireland, it is +tempered by a salubrious air. Demetia, therefore, with its seven +cantreds, is the most beautiful, as well as the most powerful district of +Wales; Penbroch, the finest part of the province of Demetia; and the +place I have just described, the most delightful part of Penbroch. It is +evident, therefore, that Maenor Pirr is the pleasantest spot in Wales; +and the author may be pardoned for having thus extolled his native soil, +his genial territory, with a profusion of praise and admiration. + +In this part of Penbroch, unclean spirits have conversed, nor visibly, +but sensibly, with mankind; first in the house of Stephen Wiriet, {86a} +and afterwards in the house of William Not; {86b} manifesting their +presence by throwing dirt at them, and more with a view of mockery than +of injury. In the house of William, they cut holes in the linen and +woollen garments, much to the loss of the owner of the house and his +guests; nor could any precaution, or even bolts, secure them from these +inconveniences. In the house of Stephen, the spirit in a more +extraordinary manner conversed with men, and, in reply to their taunts, +upbraided them openly with everything they had done from their birth, and +which they were not willing should be known or heard by others. I do not +presume to assign the cause of this event, except that it is said to be +the presage of a sudden change from poverty to riches, or rather from +affluence to poverty and distress; as it was found to be the case in both +these instances. And it appears to me very extraordinary that these +places could not be purified from such illusions, either by the +sprinkling of holy water, or the assistance of any other religious +ceremony; for the priests themselves, though protected by the crucifix, +or the holy water, on devoutly entering the house, were equally subject +to the same insults. From whence it appears that things pertaining to +the sacraments, as well as the sacraments themselves, defend us from +hurtful, but not from harmless things; from annoyances, but not from +illusions. It is worthy of note, that in our time, a woman in Poitou was +possessed by a demon, who, through her mouth, artfully and acutely +disputed with the learned. He sometimes upbraided people with their +secret actions, and those things which they wished not to hear; but when +either the books of the gospel, or the relics of saints, were placed upon +the mouth of the possessed, he fled to the lower part of her throat; and +when they were removed thither, he descended into her belly. His +appearance was indicated by certain inflations and convulsions of the +parts which he possessed, and when the relics were again placed in the +lower parts, he directly returned to the upper. At length, when they +brought the body of Christ, and gave it to the patient, the demon +answered, “Ye fools, you are doing nothing, for what you give her is not +the food of the body, but of the soul; and my power is confined to the +body, not to the soul.” But when those persons whom he had upbraided +with their more serious actions, had confessed, and returned from +penance, he reproached them no more. “I have known, indeed,” says he, “I +have known but now I know not, (he spake this as it were a reproach to +others), and I hold my tongue, for what I know, I know not.” From which +it appears, that after confession and penance, the demons either do not +know the sins of men, or do not know them to their injury and disgrace; +because, as Augustine says, “If man conceals, God discovers; if man +discovers, God conceals.” + +Some people are surprised that lightning often strikes our places of +worship, and damages the crosses and images of him who was crucified, +before the eyes of one who seeth all things, and permits these +circumstances to happen; to whom I shall only answer with Ovid, + + “Summa petit livor, perflant altissima venti, + Summa petunt dextra fulmina missa Jovis.” + +On the same subject, Peter Abelard, in the presence of Philip king of +France, is said to have answered a Jew, who urged these and similar +things against the faith. “It is true that the lightning descending from +on high, directs itself most commonly to the highest object on earth, and +to those most resembling its own nature; it never, therefore, injures +your synagogues, because no man ever saw or heard of its falling upon a +privy.” An event worthy of note, happened in our time in France. During +a contention between some monks of the Cistercian order, and a certain +knight, about the limits of their fields and lands, a violent tempest, in +one night, utterly destroyed and ruined the cultivated grounds of the +monks, while the adjoining territory of the knight remained undamaged. +On which occasion he insolently inveighed against the fraternity, and +publicly asserted that divine vengeance had thus punished them for +unlawfully keeping possession of his land; to which the abbot wittily +replied, “It is by no means so; but that the knight had more friends in +that riding than the monastery;” and he clearly demonstrated that, on the +other hand, the monks had more enemies in it. + +In the province of Penbroch, another instance occurred, about the same +time, of a spirit’s appearing in the house of Elidore de Stakepole, {88} +not only sensibly, but visibly, under the form of a red-haired young man, +who called himself Simon. First seizing the keys from the person to whom +they were entrusted, he impudently assumed the steward’s office, which he +managed so prudently and providently, that all things seemed to abound +under his care, and there was no deficiency in the house. Whatever the +master or mistress secretly thought of having for their daily use or +provision, he procured with wonderful agility, and without any previous +directions, saying, “You wished that to be done, and it shall be done for +you.” He was also well acquainted with their treasures and secret +hoards, and sometimes upbraided them on that account; for as often as +they seemed to act sparingly and avariciously, he used to say, “Why are +you afraid to spend that heap of gold or silver, since your lives are of +so short duration, and the money you so cautiously hoard up will never do +you any service?” He gave the choicest meat and drink to the rustics and +hired servants, saying that “Those persons should be abundantly supplied, +by whose labours they were acquired.” Whatever he determined should be +done, whether pleasing or displeasing to his master or mistress (for, as +we have said before, he knew all their secrets), he completed in his +usual expeditious manner, without their consent. He never went to +church, or uttered one Catholic word. He did not sleep in the house, but +was ready at his office in the morning. + +He was at length observed by some of the family to hold his nightly +converse near a mill and a pool of water; upon which discovery he was +summoned the next morning before the master of the house and his lady, +and, receiving his discharge, delivered up the keys, which he had held +for upwards of forty days. Being earnestly interrogated, at his +departure, who he was? he answered, “That he was begotten upon the wife +of a rustic in that parish, by a demon, in the shape of her husband,” +naming the man, and his father-in-law, then dead, and his mother, still +alive; the truth of which the woman, upon examination, openly avowed. A +similar circumstance happened in our time in Denmark. A certain unknown +priest paid court to the archbishop, and, from his obsequious behaviour +and discreet conduct, his general knowledge of letters and quick memory, +soon contracted a great familiarity with him. Conversing one day with +the archbishop about ancient histories and unknown events, on which topic +he most frequently heard him with pleasure, it happened that when the +subject of their discourse was the incarnation of our Lord, he said, +amongst other things, “Before Christ assumed human nature, the demons had +great power over mankind, which, at his coming, was much diminished; +insomuch that they were dispersed on every side, and fled from his +presence. Some precipitated themselves into the sea, others into the +hollow parts of trees, or the clefts of rocks; and I myself leaped into a +well;” on which he blushed for shame, and took his departure. The +archbishop, and those who were with him, being greatly astonished at that +speech, began to ask questions by turns, and form conjectures; and having +waited some time (for he was expected to return soon), the archbishop +ordered some of his attendants to call him, but he was sought for in +vain, and never re-appeared. Soon afterwards, two priests, whom the +archbishop had sent to Rome, returned; and when this event was related to +them, they began to inquire the day and hour on which the circumstance +had happened? On being told it, they declared that on the very same day +and hour he had met them on the Alps, saying, that he had been sent to +the court of Rome, on account of some business of his master’s (meaning +the archbishop), which had lately occurred. And thus it was proved, that +a demon had deluded them under a human form. + +I ought not to omit mentioning the falcons of these parts, which are +large, and of a generous kind, and exercise a most severe tyranny over +the river and land birds. King Henry II. remained here some time, making +preparations for his voyage to Ireland; and being desirous of taking the +diversion of hawking, he accidentally saw a noble falcon perched upon a +rock. Going sideways round him, he let loose a fine Norway hawk, which +he carried on his left hand. The falcon, though at first slower in its +flight, soaring up to a great height, burning with resentment, and in his +turn becoming the aggressor, rushed down upon his adversary with the +greatest impetuosity, and by a violent blow struck the hawk dead at the +feet of the king. From that time the king sent every year, about the +breeding season, for the falcons {90} of this country, which are produced +on the sea cliffs; nor can better be found in any part of his dominions. +But let us now return to our Itinerary. + + + +CHAPTER XIII +OF THE PROGRESS BY CAMROS AND NIWEGAL + + +FROM Haverford we proceeded on our journey to Menevia, distant from +thence about twelve miles, and passed through Camros, {91a} where, in the +reign of king Stephen, the relations and friends of a distinguished young +man, Giraldus, son of William, revenged his death by a too severe +retaliation on the men of Ros. We then passed over Niwegal sands, at +which place (during the winter that king Henry II. spent in Ireland), as +well as in almost all the other western ports, a very remarkable +circumstance occurred. The sandy shores of South Wales, being laid bare +by the extraordinary violence of a storm, the surface of the earth, which +had been covered for many ages, re-appeared, and discovered the trunks of +trees cut off, standing in the very sea itself, the strokes of the +hatchet appearing as if made only yesterday. {91b} The soil was very +black, and the wood like ebony. By a wonderful revolution, the road for +ships became impassable, and looked, not like a shore, but like a grove +cut down, perhaps, at the time of the deluge, or not long after, but +certainly in very remote ages, being by degrees consumed and swallowed up +by the violence and encroachments of the sea. During the same tempest +many sea fish were driven, by the violence of the wind and waves, upon +dry land. We were well lodged at St. David’s by Peter, bishop of the +see, a liberal man, who had hitherto accompanied us during the whole of +our journey. + + + + +BOOK II + + +PREFACE + + +SINCE, therefore, St. David’s is the head, and in times past was the +metropolitan, city of Wales, though now, alas! retaining more of the +_name_ than of the _omen_, {94} yet I have not forborne to weep over the +obsequies of our ancient and undoubted mother, to follow the mournful +hearse, and to deplore with tearful sighs the ashes of our half-buried +matron. I shall, therefore, endeavour briefly to declare to you in what +manner, from whence, and from what period the pall was first brought to +St. David’s, and how it was taken away; how many prelates were invested +with the pall; and how many were despoiled thereof; together with their +respective names to this present day. + + + +CHAPTER I +OF THE SEE OF SAINT DAVID’S + + +WE are informed by the British histories, that Dubricius, archbishop of +Caerleon, sensible of the infirmities of age, or rather being desirous of +leading a life of contemplation, resigned his honours to David, who is +said to have been uncle to king Arthur; and by his interest the see was +translated to Menevia, although Caerleon, as we have observed in the +first book, was much better adapted for the episcopal see. For Menevia +is situated in a most remote corner of land upon the Irish ocean, the +soil stony and barren, neither clothed with woods, distinguished by +rivers, nor adorned by meadows, ever exposed to the winds and tempests, +and continually subject to the hostile attacks of the Flemings on one +side, and of the Welsh on the other. For the holy men who settled here, +chose purposely such a retired habitation, that by avoiding the noise of +the world, and preferring an heremitical to a pastoral life, they might +more freely provide for “that part which shall not be taken away;” for +David was remarkable for his sanctity and religion, as the history of his +life will testify. Amongst the many miracles recorded of him, three +appear to me the most worthy of admiration: his origin and conception; +his pre-election thirty years before his birth; and what exceeds all, the +sudden rising of the ground, at Brevy, under his feet while preaching, to +the great astonishment of all the beholders. + +Since the time of David, twenty-five archbishops presided over the see of +Menevia, whose names are here subjoined: David, Cenauc, Eliud, who was +also called Teilaus, Ceneu, Morwal, Haerunen, Elwaed, Gurnuen, Lendivord, +Gorwysc, Cogan, Cledauc, Anian, Euloed, Ethelmen, Elauc, Malscoed, +Sadermen, Catellus, Sulhaithnai, Nonis, Etwal, Asser, Arthuael, Sampson. +In the time of Sampson, the pall was translated from Menevia in the +following manner: a disorder called the yellow plague, and by the +physicians the icteric passion, of which the people died in great +numbers, raged throughout Wales, at the time when Sampson held the +archiepiscopal see. Though a holy man, and fearless of death, he was +prevailed upon, by the earnest intreaties of his people, to go on board a +vessel, which was wafted, by a south wind, to Britannia Armorica, {96} +where he and his attendants were safely landed. The see of Dol being at +that time vacant, he was immediately elected bishop. Hence it came to +pass, that on account of the pall which Sampson had brought thither with +him, the succeeding bishops, even to our times, always retained it. But +during the presidency of the archbishop of Tours, this adventitious +dignity ceased; yet our countrymen, through indolence or poverty, or +rather owing to the arrival of the English into the island, and the +frequent hostilities committed against them by the Saxons, lost their +archiepiscopal honours. But until the entire subjugation of Wales by +king Henry I., the Welsh bishops were always consecrated by the bishop of +St. David’s; and he was consecrated by his suffragans, without any +profession or submission being made to any other church. + +From the time of Sampson to that of king Henry I., nineteen bishops +presided over this see: Ruelin, Rodherch, Elguin, Lunuerd, Nergu, +Sulhidir, Eneuris, Morgeneu, who was the first bishop of St. David’s who +ate flesh, and was there killed by pirates; and he appeared to a certain +bishop in Ireland on the night of his death, shewing his wounds, and +saying, “Because I ate flesh, I am become flesh.” Nathan, Ievan (who was +bishop only one night), Argustel, Morgenueth, Ervin, Tramerin, Joseph, +Bleithud, Sulghein, Abraham, Wilfred. Since the subjugation of Wales to +the present time, three only have held the see: in the reign of king +Henry I., Bernard; in the reign of king Stephen, David II.; and in the +reign of king Henry II., Peter, a monk of the order of Cluny; who all, by +the king’s mandate, were consecrated at Canterbury; as also Geoffrey, +prior and canon of Lanthoni, who succeeded them in the reign of king +John, and was preferred to this see by the interest of Hubert, archbishop +of Canterbury, and afterwards consecrated by him. We do not hear that +either before or after that subjugation, any archbishop of Canterbury +ever entered the borders of Wales, except Baldwin, a monk of the +Cistercian order, abbot of Ford, and afterwards bishop of Worcester, who +traversed that rough, inaccessible, and remote country with a laudable +devotion for the service of the cross; and as a token of investiture, +celebrated mass in all the cathedral churches. So that till lately the +see of St. David’s owed no subjection to that of Canterbury, as may be +seen in the English History of Bede, who says that “Augustine, bishop of +the Angles, after the conversion of king Ethelfred and the English +people, called together the bishops of Wales on the confines of the West +Saxons, as legate of the apostolic see. When the seven bishops {97} +appeared, Augustine, sitting in his chair, with Roman pride, did not rise +up at their entrance. Observing his haughtiness (after the example of a +holy anchorite of their nation), they immediately returned, and treated +him and his statutes with contempt, publicly proclaiming that they would +not acknowledge him for their archbishop; alleging, that if he now +refused to rise up to us, how much more will he hold us in contempt, if +we submit to be subject to him?” That there were at that time seven +bishops in Wales, and now only four, may be thus accounted for; because +perhaps there were formerly more cathedral churches in Wales than there +are at present, or the extent of Wales might have been greater. Amongst +so many bishops thus deprived of their dignity, Bernard, the first French +[_i.e._ Norman] bishop of St. David’s, alone defended the rights of his +church in a public manner; and after many expensive and vexatious appeals +to the court of Rome, would not have reclaimed them in vain, if false +witnesses had not publicly appeared at the council of Rheims, before pope +Eugenius, and testified that he had made profession and submission to the +see of Canterbury. Supported by three auxiliaries, the favour and +intimacy of king Henry, a time of peace, and consequent plenty, he boldly +hazarded the trial of so great a cause, and so confident was he of his +just right, that he sometimes caused the cross to be carried before him +during his journey through Wales. + +Bernard, however commendable in some particulars, was remarkable for his +insufferable pride and ambition. For as soon as he became courtier and a +creature of the king’s, panting after English riches by means of +translation, (a malady under which all the English sent hither seem to +labour), he alienated many of the lands of his church without either +advantage or profit, and disposed of others so indiscreetly and +improvidently, that when ten carucates {98} of land were required for +military purposes, he would, with a liberal hand, give twenty or thirty; +and of the canonical rites and ordinances which he had miserably and +unhappily instituted at St. David’s, he would hardly make use of one, at +most only of two or three. With respect to the two sees of Canterbury +and St. David’s, I will briefly explain my opinion of their present +state. On one side, you will see royal favour, affluence of riches, +numerous and opulent suffragan bishops, great abundance of learned men +and well skilled in the laws; on the other side, a deficiency of all +these things, and a total want of justice; on which account the recovery +of its ancient rights will not easily be effected, but by means of those +great changes and vicissitudes which kingdoms experience from various and +unexpected events. + +The spot where the church of St. David’s stands, and was founded in +honour of the apostle St. Andrew, is called the Vale of Roses; which +ought rather to be named the vale of marble, since it abounds with one, +and by no means with the other. The river Alun, a muddy and unproductive +rivulet, {99a} bounding the churchyard on the northern side, flows under +a marble stone, called Lechlavar, which has been polished by continual +treading of passengers, and concerning the name, size, and quality of +which we have treated in our Vaticinal History. {99b} Henry II., on his +return from Ireland, is said to have passed over this stone, before he +devoutly entered the church of St. Andrew and St. David. Having left the +following garrisons in Ireland, namely, Hugh de Lacy (to whom he had +given Meath in fee) in Dublin, with twenty knights; Fitz-Stephen and +Maurice Fitzgerald, with other twenty; Humphrey de Bohun, Robert +Fitz-Bernard, and Hugh de Grainville at Waterford, with forty; and +William Fitz-Adelm and Philip de Braose at Wexford, with twenty; on the +second day of Easter, the king embarked at sunrise on board a vessel in +the outward port of Wexford, and, with a south wind, landed about noon in +the harbour of Menevia. Proceeding towards the shrine of St. David, +habited like a pilgrim, and leaning on a staff, he met at the white gate +a procession of the canons of the church coming forth to receive him with +due honour and reverence. As the procession solemnly moved along, a +Welsh woman threw herself at the king’s feet, and made a complaint +against the bishop of the place, which was explained to the king by an +interpreter. The woman, immediate attention not being paid to her +petition, with violent gesticulation, and a loud and impertinent voice, +exclaimed repeatedly, “Revenge us this day, Lechlavar! revenge us and the +nation in this man!” On being chidden and driven away by those who +understood the British language, she more vehemently and forcibly +vociferated in the like manner, alluding to the vulgar fiction and +proverb of Merlin, “That a king of England, and conqueror of Ireland, +should be wounded in that country by a man with a red hand, and die upon +Lechlavar, on his return through Menevia.” This was the name of that +stone which serves as a bridge over the river Alun, which divides the +cemetery from the northern side of the church. It was a beautiful piece +of marble, polished by the feet of passengers, ten feet in length, six in +breadth, and one in thickness. Lechlavar signifies in the British +language a talking stone. {100} There was an ancient tradition +respecting this stone, that at a time when a corpse was carried over it +for interment, it broke forth into speech, and by the effort cracked in +the middle, which fissure is still visible; and on account of this +barbarous and ancient superstition, the corpses are no longer brought +over it. The king, who had heard the prophecy, approaching the stone, +stopped for a short time at the foot of it, and, looking earnestly at it, +boldly passed over; then, turning round, and looking towards the stone, +thus indignantly inveighed against the prophet: “Who will hereafter give +credit to the lying Merlin?” A person standing by, and observing what +had passed, in order to vindicate the injury done to the prophet, +replied, with a loud voice, “Thou art not that king by whom Ireland is to +be conquered, or of whom Merlin prophesied!” The king then entering the +church founded in honour of St. Andrew and St. David, devoutly offered up +his prayers, and heard mass performed by a chaplain, whom alone, out of +so large a body of priests, Providence seems to have kept fasting till +that hour, for this very purpose. Having supped at St. David’s, the king +departed for the castle of Haverford, distant about twelve miles. It +appears very remarkable to me, that in our days, when David II. presided +over the see, the river should have flowed with wine, and that the +spring, called Pistyll Dewi, or the _Pipe_ of David, from its flowing +through a pipe into the eastern side of the churchyard, should have run +with milk. The birds also of that place, called jackdaws, from being so +long unmolested by the clergy of the church, were grown so tame and +domesticated, as not to be afraid of persons dressed in black. In clear +weather the mountains of Ireland are visible from hence, and the passage +over the Irish sea may be performed in one short day; on which account +William, the son of William the Bastard, and the second of the Norman +kings in England, who was called Rufus, and who had penetrated far into +Wales, on seeing Ireland from these rocks, is reported to have said, “I +will summon hither all the ships of my realm, and with them make a bridge +to attack that country.” Which speech being related to Murchard, prince +of Leinster, he paused awhile, and answered, “Did the king add to this +mighty threat, If God please?” and being informed that he had made no +mention of God in his speech, rejoicing in such a prognostic, he replied, +“Since that man trusts in human, not divine power, I fear not his +coming.” + + + +CHAPTER II +OF THE JOURNEY BY CEMMEIS—THE MONASTERY OF ST. DOGMAEL + + +THE archbishop having celebrated mass early in the morning before the +high altar of the church of St. David, and enjoined to the archdeacon +(Giraldus) the office of preaching to the people, hastened through +Cemmeis {102a} to meet prince Rhys at Aberteive. {102b} Two +circumstances occurred in the province of Cemmeis, the one in our own +time, the other a little before, which I think right not to pass over in +silence. In our time, a young man, native of this country, during a +severe illness, suffered as violent a persecution from toads, {102c} as +if the reptiles of the whole province had come to him by agreement; and +though destroyed by his nurses and friends, they increased again on all +sides in infinite numbers, like hydras’ heads. His attendants, both +friends and strangers, being wearied out, he was drawn up in a kind of +bag, into a high tree, stripped of its leaves, and shred; nor was he +there secure from his venomous enemies, for they crept up the tree in +great numbers, and consumed him even to the very bones. The young man’s +name was Sisillus Esceir-hir, that is, Sisillus Long Leg. It is also +recorded that by the hidden but never unjust will of God, another man +suffered a similar persecution from rats. In the same province, during +the reign of king Henry I., a rich man, who had a residence on the +northern side of the Preseleu mountains, {103a} was warned for three +successive nights, by dreams, that if he put his hand under a stone which +hung over the spring of a neighbouring well, called the fountain of St. +Bernacus, {103b} he would find there a golden torques. Obeying the +admonition on the third day, he received, from a viper, a deadly wound in +his finger; but as it appears that many treasures have been discovered +through dreams, it seems to me probable that, with respect to rumours, in +the same manner as to dreams, some ought, and some ought not, to be +believed. + +I shall not pass over in silence the circumstance which occurred in the +principal castle of Cemmeis at Lanhever, {103c} in our days. Rhys, son +of Gruffydd, by the instigation of his son Gruffydd, a cunning and artful +man, took away by force, from William, son of Martin (de Tours), his +son-in-law, the castle of Lanhever, notwithstanding he had solemnly +sworn, by the most precious relics, that his indemnity and security +should be faithfully maintained, and, contrary to his word and oath, gave +it to his son Gruffydd; but since “A sordid prey has not a good ending,” +the Lord, who by the mouth of his prophet, exclaims “Vengeance is mine, +and I will repay!” ordained that the castle should be taken away from the +contriver of this wicked plot, Gruffydd, and bestowed upon the man in the +world he most hated, his brother Malgon. Rhys, also, about two years +afterwards, intending to disinherit his own daughter, and two +granddaughters and grandsons, by a singular instance of divine vengeance, +was taken prisoner by his sons in battle, and confined in this same +castle; thus justly suffering the greatest disgrace and confusion in the +very place where he had perpetrated an act of the most consummate +baseness. I think it also worthy to be remembered, that at the time this +misfortune befell him, he had concealed in his possession, at Dinevor, +the collar of St. Canauc of Brecknock, for which, by divine vengeance, he +merited to be taken prisoner and confined. + +We slept that night in the monastery of St. Dogmael, where, as well as on +the next day at Aberteivi, we were handsomely entertained by prince Rhys. +On the Cemmeis side of the river, not far from the bridge, the people of +the neighbourhood being assembled together, and Rhys and his two sons, +Malgon and Gruffydd, being present, the word of the Lord was persuasively +preached both by the archbishop and the archdeacon, and many were induced +to take the cross; one of whom was an only son, and the sole comfort of +his mother, far advanced in years, who, steadfastly gazing on him, as if +inspired by the Deity, uttered these words:—“O, most beloved Lord Jesus +Christ, I return thee hearty thanks for having conferred on me the +blessing of bringing forth a son, whom thou mayest think worthy of thy +service.” Another woman at Aberteivi, of a very different way of +thinking, held her husband fast by his cloak and girdle, and publicly and +audaciously prevented him from going to the archbishop to take the cross; +but, three nights afterwards, she heard a terrible voice, saying, “Thou +hast taken away my servant from me, therefore what thou most lovest shall +be taken away from thee.” On her relating this vision to her husband, +they were struck with mutual terror and amazement; and on falling asleep +again, she unhappily overlaid her little boy, whom, with more affection +than prudence, she had taken to bed with her. The husband, relating to +the bishop of the diocese both the vision and its fatal prediction, took +the cross, which his wife spontaneously sewed on her husband’s arm. + +Near the head of the bridge where the sermons were delivered, the people +immediately marked out the site for a chapel, {105a} on a verdant plain, +as a memorial of so great an event; intending that the altar should be +placed on the spot where the archbishop stood while addressing the +multitude; and it is well known that many miracles (the enumeration of +which would be too tedious to relate) were performed on the crowds of +sick people who resorted hither from different parts of the country. + + + +CHAPTER III +OF THE RIVER TEIVI, CARDIGAN, AND EMELYN + + +THE noble river Teivi flows here, and abounds with the finest salmon, +more than any other river of Wales; it has a productive fishery near +Cilgerran, which is situated on the summit of a rock, at a place called +Canarch Mawr, {105b} the ancient residence of St. Ludoc, where the river, +falling from a great height, forms a cataract, which the salmon ascend, +by leaping from the bottom to the top of a rock, which is about the +height of the longest spear, and would appear wonderful, were it not the +nature of that species of fish to leap: hence they have received the name +of salmon, from _salio_. Their particular manner of leaping (as I have +specified in my Topography of Ireland) is thus: fish of this kind, +naturally swimming against the course of the river (for as birds fly +against the wind, so do fish swim against the stream), on meeting with +any sudden obstacle, bend their tail towards their mouth, and sometimes, +in order to give a greater power to their leap, they press it with their +mouth, and suddenly freeing themselves from this circular form, they +spring with great force (like a bow let loose) from the bottom to the top +of the leap, to the great astonishment of the beholders. The church +dedicated to St. Ludoc, {106a} the mill, bridge, salmon leap, an orchard +with a delightful garden, all stand together on a small plot of ground. +The Teivi has another singular particularity, being the only river in +Wales, or even in England, which has beavers; {106b} in Scotland they are +said to be found in one river, but are very scarce. I think it not a +useless labour, to insert a few remarks respecting the nature of these +animals—the manner in which they bring their materials from the woods to +the water, and with what skill they connect them in the construction of +their dwellings in the midst of rivers; their means of defence on the +eastern and western sides against hunters; and also concerning their +fish-like tails. + +The beavers, in order to construct their castles in the middle of rivers, +make use of the animals of their own species instead of carts, who, by a +wonderful mode of carnage, convey the timber from the woods to the +rivers. Some of them, obeying the dictates of nature, receive on their +bellies the logs of wood cut off by their associates, which they hold +tight with their feet, and thus with transverse pieces placed in their +mouths, are drawn along backwards, with their cargo, by other beavers, +who fasten themselves with their teeth to the raft. The moles use a +similar artifice in clearing out the dirt from the cavities they form by +scraping. In some deep and still corner of the river, the beavers use +such skill in the construction of their habitations, that not a drop of +water can penetrate, or the force of storms shake them; nor do they fear +any violence but that of mankind, nor even that, unless well armed. They +entwine the branches of willows with other wood, and different kinds of +leaves, to the usual height of the water, and having made within-side a +communication from floor to floor, they elevate a kind of stage, or +scaffold, from which they may observe and watch the rising of the waters. +In the course of time, their habitations bear the appearance of a grove +of willow trees, rude and natural without, but artfully constructed +within. This animal can remain in or under water at its pleasure, like +the frog or seal, who shew, by the smoothness or roughness of their +skins, the flux and reflux of the sea. These three animals, therefore, +live indifferently under the water, or in the air, and have short legs, +broad bodies, stubbed tails, and resemble the mole in their corporal +shape. It is worthy of remark, that the beaver has but four teeth, two +above, and two below, which being broad and sharp, cut like a carpenter’s +axe, and as such he uses them. They make excavations and dry hiding +places in the banks near their dwellings, and when they hear the stroke +of the hunter, who with sharp poles endeavours to penetrate them, they +fly as soon as possible to the defence of their castle, having first +blown out the water from the entrance of the hole, and rendered it foul +and muddy by scraping the earth, in order thus artfully to elude the +stratagems of the well-armed hunter, who is watching them from the +opposite banks of the river. When the beaver finds he cannot save +himself from the pursuit of the dogs who follow him, that he may ransom +his body by the sacrifice of a part, he throws away that, which by +natural instinct he knows to be the object sought for, and in the sight +of the hunter castrates himself, from which circumstance he has gained +the name of Castor; and if by chance the dogs should chase an animal +which had been previously castrated, he has the sagacity to run to an +elevated spot, and there lifting up his leg, shews the hunter that the +object of his pursuit is gone. Cicero speaking of them says, “They +ransom themselves by that part of the body, for which they are chiefly +sought.” And Juvenal says, + + “—Qui se + Eunuchum ipse facit, cupiens evadere damno + Testiculi.” + +And St. Bernard, + + “Prodit enim castor proprio de corpore velox + Reddere quas sequitur hostis avarus opes.” + +Thus, therefore, in order to preserve his skin, which is sought after in +the west, and the medicinal part of his body, which is coveted in the +east, although he cannot save himself entirely, yet, by a wonderful +instinct and sagacity, he endeavours to avoid the stratagems of his +pursuers. The beavers have broad, short tails, thick, like the palm of a +hand, which they use as a rudder in swimming; and although the rest of +their body is hairy, this part, like that of seals, is without hair, and +smooth; upon which account, in Germany and the arctic regions, where +beavers abound, great and religious persons, in times of fasting, eat the +tails of this fish-like animal, as having both the taste and colour of +fish. + +We proceeded on our journey from Cilgerran towards Pont-Stephen, {109a} +leaving Cruc Mawr, _i.e._ the great hill, near Aberteivi, on our left +hand. On this spot Gruffydd, son of Rhys ap Tewdwr, soon after the death +of king Henry I., by a furious onset gained a signal victory against the +English army, which, by the murder of the illustrious Richard de Clare, +near Abergevenny (before related), had lost its leader and chief. {109b} +A tumulus is to be seen on the summit of the aforesaid hill, and the +inhabitants affirm that it will adapt itself to persons of all stature +and that if any armour is left there entire in the evening, it will be +found, according to vulgar tradition, broken to pieces in the morning. + + + +CHAPTER IV +OF THE JOURNEY BY PONT STEPHEN, THE ABBEY OF STRATFLUR, LANDEWI BREVI, +AND LHANPADARN VAWR + + +A SERMON having been preached on the following morning at Pont Stephen, +{109c} by the archbishop and archdeacon, and also by two abbots of the +Cistercian order, John of Albadomus, and Sisillus of Stratflur, {109d} +who faithfully attended us in those parts, and as far as North Wales, +many persons were induced to take the cross. We proceeded to Stratflur, +where we passed the night. On the following morning, having on our right +the lofty mountains of Moruge, which in Welsh are called Ellennith, +{110a} we were met near the side of a wood by Cyneuric son of Rhys, +accompanied by a body of light-armed youths. This young man was of a +fair complexion, with curled hair, tall and handsome; clothed only, +according to the custom of his country, with a thin cloak and inner +garment, his legs and feet, regardless of thorns and thistles were left +bare; a man, not adorned by art, but nature; bearing in his presence an +innate, not an acquired, dignity of manners. A sermon having been +preached to these three young men, Gruffydd, Malgon, and Cyneuric, in the +presence of their father, prince Rhys, and the brothers disputing about +taking the cross, at length Malgon strictly promised that he would +accompany the archbishop to the king’s court, and would obey the king’s +and archbishop’s counsel, unless prevented by them. From thence we +passed through Landewi Brevi, {110b} that is, the church of David of +Brevi, situated on the summit of that hill which had formerly risen up +under his feet whilst preaching, during the period of that celebrated +synod, when all the bishops, abbots, and clergy of Wales, and many other +persons, were collected thither on account of the Pelagian heresy, which, +although formerly exploded from Britain by Germanus, bishop of Auxerre, +had lately been revived in these parts. At this place David was +reluctantly raised to the archbishopric, by the unanimous consent and +election of the whole assembly, who by loud acclamations testified their +admiration of so great a miracle. Dubricius had a short time before +resigned to him this honour in due form at Caerleon, from which city the +metropolitan see was transferred to St. David’s. + +Having rested that night at Lhanpadarn Vawr, {111} or the church of +Paternus the Great, we attracted many persons to the service of Christ on +the following morning. It is remarkable that this church, like many +others in Wales and Ireland, has a lay abbot; for a bad custom has +prevailed amongst the clergy, of appointing the most powerful people of a +parish stewards, or, rather, patrons, of their churches; who, in process +of time, from a desire of gain, have usurped the whole right, +appropriating to their own use the possession of all the lands, leaving +only to the clergy the altars, with their tenths and oblations, and +assigning even these to their sons and relations in the church. Such +defenders, or rather destroyers, of the church, have caused themselves to +be called abbots, and presumed to attribute to themselves a title, as +well as estates, to which they have no just claim. In this state we +found the church of Lhanpadarn, without a head. A certain old man, waxen +old in iniquity (whose name was Eden Oen, son of Gwaithwoed), being +abbot, and his sons officiating at the altar. But in the reign of king +Henry I., when the authority of the English prevailed in Wales, the +monastery of St. Peter at Gloucester held quiet possession of this +church; but after his death, the English being driven out, the monks were +expelled from their cloisters, and their places supplied by the same +violent intrusion of clergy and laity, which had formerly been practised. +It happened that in the reign of king Stephen, who succeeded Henry I., a +knight, born in Armorican Britain, having travelled through many parts of +the world, from a desire of seeing different cities, and the manners of +their inhabitants, came by chance to Lhanpadarn. On a certain feast-day, +whilst both the clergy and people were waiting for the arrival of the +abbot to celebrate mass, he perceived a body of young men, armed, +according to the custom of their country, approaching towards the church; +and on enquiring which of them was the abbot, they pointed out to him a +man walking foremost, with a long spear in his hand. Gazing on him with +amazement, he asked, “If the abbot had not another habit, or a different +staff, from that which he now carried before him?” On their answering, +“No!” he replied, “I have seen indeed and heard this day a wonderful +novelty!” and from that hour he returned home, and finished his labours +and researches. This wicked people boasts, that a certain bishop {112} +of their church (for it formerly was a cathedral) was murdered by their +predecessors; and on this account, chiefly, they ground their claims of +right and possession. No public complaint having been made against their +conduct, we have thought it more prudent to pass over, for the present, +the enormities of this wicked race with dissimulation, than exasperate +them by a further relation. + + + +CHAPTER V +OF THE RIVER DEVI, AND THE LAND OF THE SONS OF CONAN + + +APPROACHING to the river Devi, {113a} which divides North and South +Wales, the bishop of St. David’s, and Rhys the son of Gruffydd, who with +a liberality peculiarly praiseworthy in so illustrious a prince, had +accompanied us from the castle of Aberteivi, throughout all +Cardiganshire, to this place, returned home. Having crossed the river in +a boat, and quitted the diocese of St. David’s, we entered the land of +the sons of Conan, or Merionyth, the first province of Venedotia on that +side of the country, and belonging to the bishopric of Bangor. {113b} We +slept that night at Towyn. Early next morning, Gruffydd son of Conan +{113c} came to meet us, humbly and devoutly asking pardon for having so +long delayed his attention to the archbishop. On the same day, we +ferried over the bifurcate river Maw, {113d} where Malgo, son of Rhys, +who had attached himself to the archbishop, as a companion to the king’s +court, discovered a ford near the sea. That night we lay at Llanvair, +{114a} that is the church of St. Mary, in the province of Ardudwy. {114b} +This territory of Conan, and particularly Merionyth, is the rudest and +roughest district of all Wales; the ridges of its mountains are very high +and narrow, terminating in sharp peaks, and so irregularly jumbled +together, that if the shepherds conversing or disputing with each other +from their summits, should agree to meet, they could scarcely effect +their purpose in the course of the whole day. The lances of this country +are very long; for as South Wales excels in the use of the bow, so North +Wales is distinguished for its skill in the lance; insomuch that an iron +coat of mail will not resist the stroke of a lance thrown at a small +distance. The next morning, the youngest son of Conan, named Meredyth, +met us at the passage of a bridge, attended by his people, where many +persons were signed with the cross; amongst whom was a fine young man of +his suite, and one of his intimate friends; and Meredyth, observing that +the cloak, on which the cross was to be sewed, appeared of too thin and +of too common a texture, with a flood of tears, threw him down his own. + + + +CHAPTER VI +PASSAGE OF TRAETH MAWR AND TRAETH BACHAN, AND OF NEVYN, CARNARVON, AND +BANGOR + + +WE continued our journey over the Traeth Mawr, {115a} and Traeth Bachan, +{115b} that is, the greater and the smaller arm of the sea, where two +stone castles have newly been erected; one called Deudraeth, belonging to +the sons of Conan, situated in Evionyth, towards the northern mountains; +the other named Carn Madryn, the property of the sons of Owen, built on +the other side of the river towards the sea, on the head-land Lleyn. +{115c} Traeth, in the Welsh language, signifies a tract of sand flooded +by the tides, and left bare when the sea ebbs. We had before passed over +the noted rivers, the Dissenith, {115d} between the Maw and Traeth Mawr, +and the Arthro, between the Traeth Mawr and Traeth Bachan. We slept that +night at Nevyn, on the eve of Palm Sunday, where the archdeacon, after +long inquiry and research, is said to have found Merlin Sylvestris. +{115e} + +Beyond Lleyn, there is a small island inhabited by very religious monks, +called Cælibes, or Colidei. This island, either from the wholesomeness +of its climate, owing to its vicinity to Ireland, or rather from some +miracle obtained by the merits of the saints, has this wonderful +peculiarity, that the oldest people die first, because diseases are +uncommon, and scarcely any die except from extreme old age. Its name is +Enlli in the Welsh, and Berdesey {116a} in the Saxon language; and very +many bodies of saints are said to be buried there, and amongst them that +of Daniel, bishop of Bangor. + +The archbishop having, by his sermon the next day, induced many persons +to take the cross, we proceeded towards Banchor, passing through +Caernarvon, {116b} that is, the castle of Arvon; it is called Arvon, the +province opposite to Môn, because it is so situated with respect to the +island of Mona. Our road leading us to a steep valley, {116c} with many +broken ascents and descents, we dismounted from our horses, and proceeded +on foot, rehearsing, as it were, by agreement, some experiments of our +intended pilgrimage to Jerusalem. Having traversed the valley, and +reached the opposite side with considerable fatigue, the archbishop, to +rest himself and recover his breath, sat down on an oak which had been +torn up by the violence of the winds; and relaxing into a pleasantry +highly laudable in a person of his approved gravity, thus addressed his +attendants: “Who amongst you, in this company, can now delight our +wearied ears by whistling?” which is not easily done by people out of +breath. He affirming that he could, if he thought fit, the sweet notes +are heard, in an adjoining wood, of a bird, which some said was a +woodpecker, and others, more correctly, an aureolus. The woodpecker is +called in French, _spec_, and with its strong bill, perforates oak trees; +the other bird in called aureolus, from the golden tints of its feathers, +and at certain seasons utters a sweet whistling note instead of a song. +Some persons having remarked, that the nightingale was never heard in +this country, the archbishop, with a significant smile, replied, “The +nightingale followed wise counsel, and never came into Wales; but we, +unwise counsel, who have penetrated and gone through it.” We remained +that night at Banchor, {117} the metropolitan see of North Wales, and +were well entertained by the bishop of the diocese. {118a} On the next +day, mass being celebrated by the archbishop before the high altar, the +bishop of that see, at the instance of the archbishop and other persons, +more importunate than persuasive, was compelled to take the cross, to the +general concern of all his people of both sexes, who expressed their +grief on this occasion by loud and lamentable vociferations. + + + +CHAPTER VII +THE ISLAND OF MONA + + +FROM hence, we crossed over a small arm of the sea to the island of Mona, +{118b} distant from thence about two miles, where Roderic, the younger +son of Owen, attended by nearly all the inhabitants of the island, and +many others from the adjacent countries, came in a devout manner to meet +us. Confession having been made in a place near the shore, where the +surrounding rocks seemed to form a natural theatre, {118c} many persons +were induced to take the cross, by the persuasive discourses of the +archbishop, and Alexander, our interpreter, archdeacon of that place, and +of Sisillus, abbot of Stratflur. Many chosen youths of the family of +Roderic were seated on an opposite rock, and not one of them could be +prevailed upon to take the cross, although the archbishop and others most +earnestly exhorted them, but in vain, by an address particularly directed +to them. It came to pass within three days, as if by divine vengeance, +that these young men, with many others, pursued some robbers of that +country. Being discomfited and put to flight, some were slain, others +mortally wounded, and the survivors voluntarily assumed that cross they +had before despised. Roderic, also, who a short time before had +incestuously married the daughter of Rhys, related to him by blood in the +third degree, in order, by the assistance of that prince, to be better +able to defend himself against the sons of his brothers, whom he had +disinherited, not paying attention to the wholesome admonitions of the +archbishop on this subject, was a little while afterwards dispossessed of +all his lands by their means; thus deservedly meeting with disappointment +from the very source from which he expected support. The island of Mona +contains three hundred and forty-three vills, considered equal to three +cantreds. Cantred, a compound word from the British and Irish languages, +is a portion of land equal to one hundred vills. There are three islands +contiguous to Britain, on its different sides, which are said to be +nearly of an equal size—the Isle of Wight on the south, Mona on the west, +and Mania (Man) on the north-west side. The two first are separated from +Britain by narrow channels; the third is much further removed, lying +almost midway between the countries of Ulster in Ireland and Galloway in +Scotland. The island of Mona is an arid and stony land, rough and +unpleasant in its appearance, similar in its exterior qualities to the +land of Pebidion, {120a} near St. David’s, but very different as to its +interior value. For this island is incomparably more fertile in corn +than any other part of Wales, from whence arose the British proverb, “Mon +mam Cymbry, Mona mother of Wales;” and when the crops have been defective +in all other parts of the country, this island, from the richness of its +soil and abundant produce, has been able to supply all Wales. + +As many things within this island are worthy of remark, I shall not think +it superfluous to make mention of some of them. There is a stone here +resembling a human thigh, {120b} which possesses this innate virtue, that +whatever distance it may be carried, it returns, of its own accord, the +following night, as has often been experienced by the inhabitants. Hugh, +earl of Chester, {120c} in the reign of king Henry I., having by force +occupied this island and the adjacent country, heard of the miraculous +power of this stone, and, for the purpose of trial, ordered it to be +fastened, with strong iron chains, to one of a larger size, and to be +thrown into the sea. On the following morning, however, according to +custom, it was found in its original position, on which account the earl +issued a public edict, that no one, from that time, should presume to +move the stone from its place. A countryman, also, to try the powers of +this stone, fastened it to his thigh, which immediately became putrid, +and the stone returned to its original situation. + +There is in the same island a stony hill, not very large or high, from +one side of which, if you cry aloud, you will not be heard on the other; +and it is called (by anti-phrasis) the rock of hearers. In the northern +part of Great Britain (Northumberland) so named by the English, from its +situation beyond the river Humber, there is a hill of a similar nature, +where if a loud horn or trumpet is sounded on one side, it cannot be +heard on the opposite one. There is also in this island the church of +St. Tefredaucus, {121} into which Hugh, earl of Shrewsbury, (who, +together with the earl of Chester, had forcibly entered Anglesey), on a +certain night put some dogs, which on the following morning were found +mad, and he himself died within a month; for some pirates, from the +Orcades, having entered the port of the island in their long vessels, the +earl, apprised of their approach, boldly met them, rushing into the sea +upon a spirited horse. The commander of the expedition, Magnus, standing +on the prow of the foremost ship, aimed an arrow at him; and, although +the earl was completely equipped in a coat of mail, and guarded in every +part of his body except his eyes, the unlucky weapon struck his right +eye, and, entering his brain, he fell a lifeless corpse into the sea. +The victor, seeing him in this state, proudly and exultingly exclaimed, +in the Danish tongue, “Leit loup,” let him leap; and from this time the +power of the English ceased in Anglesey. In our times, also, when Henry +II. was leading an army into North Wales, where he had experienced the +ill fortune of war in a narrow, woody pass near Coleshulle, he sent a +fleet into Anglesey, and began to plunder the aforesaid church, and other +sacred places. But the divine vengeance pursued him, for the inhabitants +rushed upon the invaders, few against many, unarmed against armed; and +having slain great numbers, and taken many prisoners, gained a most +complete and bloody victory. For, as our Topography of Ireland +testifies, that the Welsh and Irish are more prone to anger and revenge +than any other nations, the saints, likewise, of those countries appear +to be of a more vindictive nature. + +Two noble persons, and uncles of the author of this book, were sent +thither by the king; namely, Henry, son of king Henry I., and uncle to +king Henry II., by Nest, daughter of Rhys, prince of South Wales; and +Robert Fitz-Stephen, brother to Henry, a man who in our days, shewing the +way to others, first attacked Ireland, and whose fame is recorded in our +Vaticinal History. Henry, actuated by too much valour, and ill +supported, was pierced by a lance, and fell amongst the foremost, to the +great concern of his attendants; and Robert, despairing of being able to +defend himself, was badly wounded, and escaped with difficulty to the +ships. + +There is a small island, almost adjoining to Anglesey, which is inhabited +by hermits, living by manual labour, and serving God. It is remarkable +that when, by the influence of human passions, any discord arises among +them, all their provisions are devoured and infected by a species of +small mice, with which the island abounds; but when the discord ceases, +they are no longer molested. Nor is it to be wondered at, if the +servants of God sometimes disagree, since Jacob and Esau contended in the +womb of Rebecca, and Paul and Barnabas differed; the disciples also of +Jesus disputed which of them should be the greatest, for these are the +temptations of human infirmity; yet virtue is often made perfect by +infirmity, and faith is increased by tribulations. This island is called +in Welsh, Ynys Lenach, {123a} or the ecclesiastical island, because many +bodies of saints are deposited there, and no woman is suffered to enter +it. + +We saw in Anglesey a dog, who accidentally had lost his tail, and whose +whole progeny bore the same defect. It is wonderful that nature should, +as it were, conform itself in this particular to the accident of the +father. We saw also a knight, named Earthbald, born in Devonshire, whose +father, denying the child with which his mother was pregnant, and from +motives of jealousy accusing her of inconstancy, nature alone decided the +controversy by the birth of the child, who, by a miracle, exhibited on +his upper lip a scar, similar to one his father bore in consequence of a +wound he had received from a lance in one of his military expeditions. +Stephen, the son of Earthbald, had a similar mark, the accident being in +a manner converted into nature. A like miracle of nature occurred in +earl Alberic, son of Alberic earl of Veer, {123b} whose father, during +the pregnancy of his mother, the daughter of Henry of Essex, having +laboured to procure a divorce, on account of the ignominy of her father, +the child, when born, had the same blemish in its eye, as the father had +got from a casual hurt. These defects may be entailed on the offspring, +perhaps, by the impression made on the memory by frequent and steady +observation; as it is reported that a queen, accustomed to see the +picture of a negro in her chamber, unexpectedly brought forth a black +child, and is exculpated by Quintilian, on account of the picture. In +like manner it happened to the spotted sheep, given by Laban out of his +flock to his nephew Jacob, and which conceived by means of variegated +rods. {124} Nor is the child always affected by the mother’s imagination +alone, but sometimes by that of the father; for it is well known that a +man, seeing a passenger near him, who was convulsed both behind and +before, on going home and telling his wife that he could not get the +impression of this sight off his mind, begat a child who was affected in +a similar manner. + + + +CHAPTER VIII +PASSAGE OF THE RIVER CONWY IN A BOAT, AND OF DINAS EMRYS + + +ON our return to Banchor from Mona, we were shown the tombs of prince +Owen and his younger brother Cadwalader, {125a} who were buried in a +double vault before the high altar, although Owen, on account of his +public incest with his cousin-german, had died excommunicated by the +blessed martyr St. Thomas, the bishop of that see having been enjoined to +seize a proper opportunity of removing his body from the church. We +continued our journey on the sea coast, confined on one side by steep +rocks, and by the sea on the other, towards the river Conwy, which +preserves its waters unadulterated by the sea. Not far from the source +of the river Conwy, at the head of the Eryri mountain, which on this side +extends itself towards the north, stands Dinas Emrys, that is, the +promontory of Ambrosius, where Merlin {125b} uttered his prophecies, +whilst Vortigern was seated upon the bank. There were two Merlins; the +one called Ambrosius who prophesied in the time of king Vortigern, was +begotten by a demon incubus, and found at Caermardin, from which +circumstance that city derived its name of Caermardin, or the city of +Merlin; the other Merlin, born in Scotland, was named Celidonius, from +the Celidonian wood in which he prophesied; and Sylvester, because when +engaged in martial conflict, he discovered in the air a terrible monster, +and from that time grew mad, and taking shelter in a wood, passed the +remainder of his days in a savage state. This Merlin lived in the time +of king Arthur, and is said to have prophesied more fully and explicitly +than the other. I shall pass over in silence what was done by the sons +of Owen in our days, after his death, or while he was dying, who, from +the wicked desire of reigning, totally disregarded the ties of +fraternity; but I shall not omit mentioning another event which occurred +likewise in our days. Owen, {126} son of Gruffyth, prince of North +Wales, had many sons, but only one legitimate, namely, Iorwerth Drwyndwn, +which in Welsh means flat-nosed, who had a son named Llewelyn. This +young man, being only twelve years of age, began, during the period of +our journey, to molest his uncles David and Roderic, the sons of Owen by +Christiana, his cousin-german; and although they had divided amongst +themselves all North Wales, except the land of Conan, and although David, +having married the sister of king Henry II., by whom he had one son, was +powerfully supported by the English, yet within a few years the +legitimate son, destitute of lands or money (by the aid of divine +vengeance), bravely expelled from North Wales those who were born in +public incest, though supported by their own wealth and by that of +others, leaving them nothing but what the liberality of his own mind and +the counsel of good men from pity suggested: a proof that adulterous and +incestuous persons are displeasing to God. + + + +CHAPTER IX +OF THE MOUNTAINS OF ERYRI + + +I MUST not pass over in silence the mountains called by the Welsh Eryri, +but by the English Snowdon, or Mountains of Snow, which gradually +increasing from the land of the sons of Conan, and extending themselves +northwards near Deganwy, seem to rear their lofty summits even to the +clouds, when viewed from the opposite coast of Anglesey. They are said +to be of so great an extent, that according to an ancient proverb, “As +Mona could supply corn for all the inhabitants of Wales, so could the +Eryri mountains afford sufficient pasture for all the herds, if collected +together.” Hence these lines of Virgil may be applied to them:— + + “Et quantum longis carpent armenta diebus, + Exigua tautum gelidus ros nocte reponet.” + + “And what is cropt by day the night renews, + Shedding refreshful stores of cooling dews.” + +On the highest parts of these mountains are two lakes worthy of +admiration. The one has a floating island in it, which is often driven +from one side to the other by the force of the winds; and the shepherds +behold with astonishment their cattle, whilst feeding, carried to the +distant parts of the lake. A part of the bank naturally bound together +by the roots of willows and other shrubs may have been broken off, and +increased by the alluvion of the earth from the shore; and being +continually agitated by the winds, which in so elevated a situation blow +with great violence, it cannot reunite itself firmly with the banks. The +other lake is noted for a wonderful and singular miracle. It contains +three sorts of fish—eels, trout, and perch, all of which have only one +eye, the left being wanting; but if the curious reader should demand of +me the explanation of so extraordinary a circumstance, I cannot presume +to satisfy him. It is remarkable also, that in two places in Scotland, +one near the eastern, the other near the western sea, the fish called +mullets possess the same defect, having no left eye. According to vulgar +tradition, these mountains are frequented by an eagle who, perching on a +fatal stone every fifth holiday, in order to satiate her hunger with the +carcases of the slain, is said to expect war on that same day, and to +have almost perforated the stone by cleaning and sharpening her beak. + + + +CHAPTER X +OF THE PASSAGE BY DEGANWY AND RUTHLAN, AND THE SEE OF LANELWY, AND OF +COLESHULLE + + +HAVING crossed the river Conwy, {128a} or rather an arm of the sea, under +Deganwy, leaving the Cistercian monastery of Conwy {128b} on the western +bank of the river to our right hand, we arrived at Ruthlan, a noble +castle on the river Cloyd, belonging to David, the eldest son of Owen +{129a} where, at the earnest invitation of David himself, we were +handsomely entertained that night. + +There is a spring not far from Ruthlan, in the province of Tegengel, +{129b} which not only regularly ebbs and flows like the sea, twice in +twenty-four hours, but at other times frequently rises and falls both by +night and day. Trogus Pompeius says, “that there is a town of the +Garamantes, where there is a spring which is hot and cold alternately by +day and night.” {129c} + +Many persons in the morning having been persuaded to dedicate themselves +to the service of Christ, we proceeded from Ruthlan to the small +cathedral church of Lanelwy; {129d} from whence (the archbishop having +celebrated mass) we continued our journey through a country rich in +minerals of silver, where money is sought in the bowels of the earth, to +the little cell of Basinwerk, {129e} where we passed the night. The +following day we traversed a long quicksand, and not without some degree +of apprehension, leaving the woody district of Coleshulle, {129f} or hill +of coal, on our right hand, where Henry II., who in our time, actuated by +youthful and indiscreet ardour, made a hostile irruption into Wales, and +presuming to pass through that narrow and woody defile, experienced a +signal defeat, and a very heavy loss of men. {130} The aforesaid king +invaded Wales three times with an army; first, North Wales at the +above-mentioned place; secondly, South Wales, by the sea-coast of +Glamorgan and Goer, penetrating as far as Caermarddin and Pencadair, and +returning by Ellennith and Melenith; and thirdly, the country of Powys, +near Oswaldestree; but in all these expeditions the king was +unsuccessful, because he placed no confidence in the prudent and +well-informed chieftains of the country, but was principally advised by +people remote from the marches, and ignorant of the manners and customs +of the natives. In every expedition, as the artificer is to be trusted +in his trade, so the advice of those people should be consulted, who, by +a long residence in the country, are become conversant with the manners +and customs of the natives; and to whom it is of high importance that the +power of the hostile nation, with whom, by a long and continued warfare, +they have contracted an implacable enmity and hatred, should be weakened +or destroyed, as we have set forth in our Vaticinal History. + +In this wood of Coleshulle, a young Welshman was killed while passing +through the king’s army; the greyhound who accompanied him did not desert +his master’s corpse for eight days, though without food; but faithfully +defended it from the attacks of dogs, wolves, and birds of prey, with a +wonderful attachment. What son to his father, what Nisus to Euryalus, +what Polynices to Tydeus, what Orestes to Pylades, would have shewn such +an affectionate regard? As a mark of favour to the dog, who was almost +starved to death, the English, although bitter enemies to the Welsh, +ordered the body, now nearly putrid, to be deposited in the ground with +the accustomed offices of humanity. + + + +CHAPTER XI +OF THE PASSAGE OF THE RIVER DEE, AND OF CHESTER + + +HAVING crossed the river Dee below Chester, (which the Welsh call +Doverdwy), on the third day before Easter, or the day of absolution (holy +Thursday), we reached Chester. As the river Wye towards the south +separates Wales from England, so the Dee near Chester forms the northern +boundary. The inhabitants of these parts assert, that the waters of this +river change their fords every month, and, as it inclines more towards +England or Wales, they can, with certainty, prognosticate which nation +will be successful or unfortunate during the year. This river derives +its origin from the lake Penmelesmere, {131a} and, although it abounds +with salmon, yet none are found in the lake. It is also remarkable, that +this river is never swollen by rains, but often rises by the violence of +the winds. + +Chester boasts of being the burial-place of Henry, {131b} a Roman +emperor, who, after having imprisoned his carnal and spiritual father, +pope Paschal, gave himself up to penitence; and, becoming a voluntary +exile in this country, ended his days in solitary retirement. It is also +asserted, that the remains of Harold are here deposited. He was the last +of the Saxon kings in England, and as a punishment for his perjury, was +defeated in the battle of Hastings, fought against the Normans. Having +received many wounds, and lost his left eye by an arrow in that +engagement, he is said to have escaped to these parts, where, in holy +conversation, leading the life of an anchorite, and being a constant +attendant at one of the churches of this city, he is believed to have +terminated his days happily. {132} The truth of these two circumstances +was declared (and not before known) by the dying confession of each +party. We saw here, what appeared novel to us, cheese made of deer’s +milk; for the countess and her mother keeping tame deer, presented to the +archbishop three small cheeses made from their milk. + +In this same country was produced, in our time, a cow partaking of the +nature of a stag, resembling its mother in the fore parts and the stag in +its hips, legs, and feet, and having the skin and colour of the stag; +but, partaking more of the nature of the domestic than of the wild +animal, it remained with the herd of cattle. A bitch also was pregnant +by a monkey, and produced a litter of whelps resembling a monkey before, +and the dog behind; which the rustic keeper of the military hall seeing +with astonishment and abhorrence, immediately killed with the stick he +carried in his hand; thereby incurring the severe resentment and anger of +his lord, when the latter became acquainted with the circumstance. + +In our time, also, a woman was born in Chester without hands, to whom +nature had supplied a remedy for that defect by the flexibility and +delicacy of the joints of her feet, with which she could sew, or perform +any work with thread or scissors, as well as other women. + + + +CHAPTER XII +OF THE JOURNEY BY THE WHITE MONASTERY, OSWALDESTREE, POWYS, AND +SHREWSBURY + + +THE feast of Easter having been observed with due solemnity, and many +persons, by the exhortations of the archbishop, signed with the cross, we +directed our way from Chester to the White Monastery, {133a} and from +thence towards Oswaldestree; where, on the very borders of Powys, we were +met by Gruffydd son of Madoc, and Elissa, princes of that country, and +many others; some few of whom having been persuaded to take the cross +(for several of the multitude had been previously signed by Reiner, +{133b} the bishop of that place), Gruffydd, prince of the district, +publicly adjured, in the presence of the archbishop, his cousin-german, +Angharad, daughter of prince Owen, whom, according to the vicious custom +of the country, he had long considered as his wife. We slept at +Oswaldestree, or the tree of St. Oswald, and were most sumptuously +entertained after the English manner, by William Fitz-Alan, {133c} a +noble and liberal young man. A short time before, whilst Reiner was +preaching, a robust youth being earnestly exhorted to follow the example +of his companions in taking the cross, answered, “I will not follow your +advice until, with this lance which I bear in my hand, I shall have +avenged the death of my lord,” alluding to Owen, son of Madoc, a +distinguished warrior, who had been maliciously and treacherously slain +by Owen Cyfeilioc, his cousin-german; and while he was thus venting his +anger and revenge, and violently brandishing his lance, it suddenly +snapped asunder, and fell disjointed in several pieces to the ground, the +handle only remaining in his hand. Alarmed and astonished at this omen, +which he considered as a certain signal for his taking the cross, he +voluntarily offered his services. + +In this third district of Wales, called Powys, there are most excellent +studs put apart for breeding, and deriving their origin from some fine +Spanish horses, which Robert de Belesme, {134a} earl of Shrewsbury, +brought into this country: on which account the horses sent from hence +are remarkable for their majestic proportion and astonishing fleetness. + +Here king Henry II. entered Powys, in our days, upon an expensive, though +fruitless, expedition. {134b} Having dismembered the hostages whom he +had previously received, he was compelled, by a sudden and violent fall +of rain, to retreat with his army. On the preceding day, the chiefs of +the English army had burned some of the Welsh churches, with the villages +and churchyards; upon which the sons of Owen the Great, with their +light-armed troops, stirred up the resentment of their father and the +other princes of the country, declaring that they would never in future +spare any churches of the English. When nearly the whole army was on the +point of assenting to this determination, Owen, a man of distinguished +wisdom and moderation—the tumult being in some degree subsided—thus +spake: “My opinion, indeed, by no means agrees with yours, for we ought +to rejoice at this conduct of our adversary; for, unless supported by +divine assistance, we are far inferior to the English; and they, by their +behaviour, have made God their enemy, who is able most powerfully to +avenge both himself and us. We therefore most devoutly promise God that +we will henceforth pay greater reverence than ever to churches and holy +places.” After which, the English army, on the following night, +experienced (as has before been related) the divine vengeance. + +From Oswaldestree, we directed our course towards Shrewsbury +(_Salopesburia_), which is nearly surrounded by the river Severn, where +we remained a few days to rest and refresh ourselves; and where many +people were induced to take the cross, through the elegant sermons of the +archbishop and archdeacon. We also excommunicated Owen de Cevelioc, +because he alone, amongst the Welsh princes, did not come to meet the +archbishop with his people. Owen was a man of more fluent speech than +his contemporary princes, and was conspicuous for the good management of +his territory. Having generally favoured the royal cause, and opposed +the measures of his own chieftains, he had contracted a great familiarity +with king Henry II. Being with the king at table at Shrewsbury, Henry, +as a mark of peculiar honour and regard, sent him one of his own loaves; +he immediately brake it into small pieces, like alms-bread, and having, +like an almoner, placed them at a distance from him, he took them up one +by one and ate them. The king requiring an explanation of this +proceeding, Owen, with a smile, replied, “I thus follow the example of my +lord;” keenly alluding to the avaricious disposition of the king, who was +accustomed to retain for a long time in his own hands the vacant +ecclesiastical benefices. + +It is to be remarked that three princes, {136} distinguished for their +justice, wisdom, and princely moderation, ruled, in our time, over the +three provinces of Wales: Owen, son of Gruffydd, in Venedotia, or North +Wales; Meredyth, his grandson, son of Gruffydd, who died early in life, +in South Wales; and Owen de Cevelioc, in Powys. But two other princes +were highly celebrated for their generosity; Cadwalader, son of Gruffydd, +in North Wales, and Gruffydd of Maelor, son of Madoc, in Powys; and Rhys, +son of Gruffydd, in South Wales, deserved commendation for his +enterprising and independent spirit. In North Wales, David, son of Owen, +and on the borders of Morgannoc, in South Wales, Howel, son of Iorwerth +of Caerleon, maintained their good faith and credit, by observing a +strict neutrality between the Welsh and English. + + + +CHAPTER XIII +OF THE JOURNEY BY WENLOCH, BRUMFELD, THE CASTLE OF LUDLOW, AND +LEOMINSTER, TO HEREFORD + + +FROM Shrewsbury, we continued our journey towards Wenloch, by a narrow +and rugged way, called Evil-street, where, in our time, a Jew, travelling +with the archdeacon of the place, whose name was Sin (_Peccatum_), and +the dean, whose name was Devil, towards Shrewsbury, hearing the +archdeacon say, that his archdeaconry began at a place called +Evil-street, and extended as far as Mal-pas, towards Chester, pleasantly +told them, “It would be a miracle, if his fate brought him safe out of a +country, whose archdeacon was Sin, whose dean the devil; the entrance to +the archdeaconry Evil-street, and its exit Bad-pass.” {137} + +From Wenloch, we passed by the little cell of Brumfeld, {138} the noble +castle of Ludlow, through Leominster to Hereford leaving on our right +hand the districts of Melenyth and Elvel; thus (describing as it were a +circle) we came to the same point from which we had commenced this +laborious journey through Wales. + +During this long and laudable legation, about three thousand men were +signed with the cross; well skilled in the use of arrows and lances, and +versed in military matters; impatient to attack the enemies of the faith; +profitably and happily engaged for the service of Christ, if the +expedition of the Holy Cross had been forwarded with an alacrity equal to +the diligence and devotion with which the forces were collected. But by +the secret, though never unjust, judgment of God, the journey of the +Roman emperor was delayed, and dissensions arose amongst our kings. The +premature and fatal hand of death arrested the king of Sicily, who had +been the foremost sovereign in supplying the holy land with corn and +provisions during the period of their distress. In consequence of his +death, violent contentions arose amongst our princes respecting their +several rights to the kingdom; and the faithful beyond sea suffered +severely by want and famine, surrounded on all sides by enemies, and most +anxiously waiting for supplies. But as affliction may strengthen the +understanding, as gold is tried by fire, and virtue may be confirmed in +weakness, these things are suffered to happen; since adversity (as +Gregory testifies) opposed to good prayers is the probation of virtue, +not the judgment of reproof. For who does not know how fortunate a +circumstance it was that Paul went to Italy, and suffered so dreadful a +shipwreck? But the ship of his heart remained unbroken amidst the waves +of the sea. + + + +CHAPTER XIV +A DESCRIPTION OF BALDWIN, ARCHBISHOP OF CANTERBURY {139} + + +LET it not be thought superfluous to describe the exterior and inward +qualities of that person, the particulars of whose embassy, and as it +were holy peregrination, we have briefly and succinctly related. He was +a man of a dark complexion, of an open and venerable countenance, of a +moderate stature, a good person, and rather inclined to be thin than +corpulent. He was a modest and grave man, of so great abstinence and +continence, that ill report scarcely ever presumed to say any thing +against him; a man of few words; slow to anger, temperate and moderate in +all his passions and affections; swift to hear, slow to speak; he was +from an early age well instructed in literature, and bearing the yoke of +the Lord from his youth, by the purity of his morals became a +distinguished luminary to the people; wherefore voluntarily resigning the +honour of the archlevite, {140} which he had canonically obtained, and +despising the pomps and vanities of the world, he assumed with holy +devotion the habit of the Cistercian order; and as he had been formerly +more than a monk in his manners, within the space of a year he was +appointed abbot, and in a few years afterwards preferred first to a +bishopric, and then to an archbishopric; and having been found faithful +in a little, had authority given him over much. But, as Cicero says, +“Nature had made nothing entirely perfect;” when he came into power, not +laying aside that sweet innate benignity which he had always shewn when a +private man, sustaining his people with his staff rather than chastising +them with rods, feeding them as it were with the milk of a mother, and +not making use of the scourges of the father, he incurred public scandal +for his remissness. So great was his lenity that he put an end to all +pastoral rigour; and was a better monk than abbot, a better bishop than +archbishop. Hence pope Urban addressed him; “Urban, servant of the +servants of God, to the most fervent monk, to the warm abbot, to the +luke-warm bishop, to the remiss archbishop, health, etc.” + +This second successor to the martyr Thomas, having heard of the insults +offered to our Saviour and his holy cross, was amongst the first who +signed themselves with the cross, and manfully assumed the office of +preaching its service both at home and in the most remote parts of the +kingdom. Pursuing his journey to the Holy Land, he embarked on board a +vessel at Marseilles, and landed safely in a port at Tyre, from whence he +proceeded to Acre, where he found our army both attacking and attacked, +our forces dispirited by the defection of the princes, and thrown into a +state of desolation and despair; fatigued by long expectation of +supplies, greatly afflicted by hunger and want, and distempered by the +inclemency of the air: finding his end approaching, he embraced his +fellow subjects, relieving their wants by liberal acts of charity and +pious exhortations, and by the tenor of his life and actions strengthened +them in the faith; whose ways, life, and deeds, may he who is alone the +“way, the truth, and the life,” the way without offence, the truth +without doubt, and the life without end, direct in truth, together with +the whole body of the faithful, and for the glory of his name and the +palm of faith which he hath planted, teach their hands to war, and their +fingers to fight. + + + + +FOOTNOTES: + + +{0a} It is a somewhat curious coincidence that the island of Barry is +now owned by a descendant of Gerald de Windor’s elder brother—the Earl of +Plymouth. + +{0b} “Mirror of the Church,” ii. 33. + +{0c} “Social England,” vol. i. p. 342. + +{0d} Published in the first instance in the “Transactions of the +Cymmrodaian Society,” and subsequently amplified and brought out in book +form. + +{0e} Introduction to Borrow’s “Wild Wales” in the Everyman Series. + +{0f} Geoffrey, who ended his life as Bishop of St. Asaph, was supposed +to have found the material for his “History of the British Kings” in a +Welsh book, containing a history of the Britons, which Waltor Colenius, +Archdeacon of Oxford, picked up during a journey in Brittany. + +{0g} Walter Map, another Archdeacon of Oxford, was born in +Glamorganshire, the son of a Norman knight by a Welsh mother. _Inter +alia_ he was the author of a Welsh work on agriculture. + +{0h} Green, “Hist. Eng. People,” i. 172. + +{0i} “England under the Angevin Kings,” vol. ii. 457. + +{0j} Project Gutenberg has released “The Description of Wales” as a +separate eText—David Price. + +{11} Giraldus has committed an error in placing Urban III. at the head +of the apostolic see; for he died at Ferrara in the month of October, +A.D. 1187, and was succeeded by Gregory VIII., whose short reign expired +in the month of December following. Clement III. was elected pontiff in +the year 1188. Frederick I., surnamed Barbarossa, succeeded Conrad III. +in the empire of Germany, in March, 1152, and was drowned in a river of +Cilicia whilst bathing, in 1190. Isaac Angelus succeeded Andronicus I. +as emperor of Constantinople, in 1185, and was dethroned in 1195. Philip +II., surnamed Augustus, from his having been born in the month of August, +was crowned at Rheims, in 1179, and died at Mantes, in 1223. William II., +king of Sicily, surnamed the Good, succeeded in 1166 to his father, +William the Bad, and died in 1189. Bela III., king of Hungary, succeeded +to the throne in 1174, and died in 1196. Guy de Lusignan was crowned +king of Jerusalem in 1186, and in the following year his city was taken +by the victorious Saladin. + +{12a} New Radnor. + +{12b} Rhys ap Gruffydd was grandson to Rhys ap Tewdwr, prince of South +Wales, who, in 1090, was slain in an engagement with the Normans. He was +a prince of great talent, but great versatility of character, and made a +conspicuous figure in Welsh history. He died in 1196, and was buried in +the cathedral of St. David’s; where his effigy, as well as that of his +son Rhys Gryg, still remain in a good state of preservation. + +{12c} Peter de Leia, prior of the Benedictine monastery of Wenlock, in +Shropshire, was the successful rival of Giraldus for the bishopric of +Saint David’s, vacant by the death of David Fitzgerald, the uncle of our +author; but he did not obtain his promotion without considerable +opposition from the canons, who submitted to the absolute sequestration +of their property before they consented to his election, being desirous +that the nephew should have succeeded his uncle. He was consecrated in +1176, and died in 1199. + +{12d} In the Latin of Giraldus, the name of Eineon is represented by +Æneas, and Eineon Clyd by Æneas Claudius. + +{13} Cruker Castle. The corresponding distance between Old and New +Radnor evidently places this castle at Old Radnor, which was anciently +called Pen-y-craig, Pencraig, or Pen-crûg, from its situation on a rocky +eminence. Cruker is a corruption, probably, from Crûg-caerau, the mount, +or height, of the fortifications. + +{14a} Buelth or Builth, a large market town on the north-west edge of +the county of Brecon, on the southern banks of the Wye, over which there +is a long and handsome bridge of stone. It had formerly a strong castle, +the site and earthworks of which still remain, but the building is +destroyed. + +{14b} Llan-Avan, a small church at the foot of barren mountains about +five or six miles north-west of Buelth. The saint from whom it takes its +name, was one of the sons of Cedig ab Cunedda; whose ancestor, Cunedda, +king of the Britons, was the head of one of the three holy families of +Britain. He is said to have lived in the beginning of the sixth century. + +{14c} Melenia, Warthrenion, Elevein, Elvenia, Melenyth, and Elvein, +places mentioned in this first chapter, and varying in their orthography, +were three different districts in Radnorshire: Melenyth is a hundred in +the northern part of the county, extending into Montgomeryshire, in which +is the church of Keri: Elvein retains in modern days the name of Elvel, +and is a hundred in the southern part of the county, separated from +Brecknockshire by the Wye; and Warthrenion, in which was the castle built +by prince Rhys at Rhaiadyr-gwy, seems to have been situated between the +other two. Warthrenion may more properly be called Gwyrthrynion, it was +anciently one of the three comots of Arwystli, a cantref of Merioneth. +In the year 1174, Melyenith was in the possession of Cadwallon ap Madawc, +cousin german to prince Rhys; Elvel was held by Eineon Clyd and +Gwyrthrynion by Eineon ap Rhys, both sons-in-law to that illustrious +prince. + +{15a} The church of Saint Germanus is now known by the name of Saint +Harmans, and is situated three or four miles from Rhaiadyr, in +Radnorshire, on the right-hand of the road from thence to Llanidloes; it +is a small and simple structure, placed on a little eminence, in a dreary +plain surrounded by mountains. + +{15b} Several churches in Wales have been dedicated to Saint Curig, who +came into Wales in the seventh century. + +{16a} Glascum is a small village in a mountainous and retired situation +between Builth and Kington, in Herefordshire. + +{16b} Bangu.—This was a hand bell kept in all the Welsh churches, which +the clerk or sexton took to the house of the deceased on the day of the +funeral: when the procession began, a psalm was sung; the bellman then +sounded his bell in a solemn manner for some time, till another psalm was +concluded; and he again sounded it at intervals, till the funeral arrived +at the church. + +{16c} Rhaiadyr, called also Rhaiader-gwy, is a small village and +market-town in Radnorshire. The site only of the castle, built by prince +Rhys, A.D. 1178, now remains at a short distance from the village; it was +strongly situated on a natural rock above the river Wye, which, below the +bridge, forms a cataract. + +{16d} Llywel, a small village about a mile from Trecastle, on the great +road leading from thence to Llandovery; it was anciently a township, and +by charter of Philip and Mary was attached to the borough of Brecknock, +by the name of Trecastle ward. + +{17} Leland, in his description of this part of Wales, mentions a lake +in Low Elvel, or Elvenia, which may perhaps be the same as that alluded +to in this passage of Giraldus. “There is a llinne in Low Elvel within a +mile of Payne’s castel by the church called Lanpeder. The llinne is +caullid Bougklline, and is of no great quantite, but is plentiful of +pike, and perche, and eles.”—_Leland_, _Itin._ tom. v. p. 72. + +{18a} Hay.—A pleasant market-town on the southern banks of the river +Wye, over which there is a bridge. It still retains some marks of +baronial antiquity in the old castle, within the present town, the +gateway of which is tolerably perfect. A high raised tumulus adjoining +the church marks the site of the more ancient fortress. The more modern +and spacious castle owes its foundation probably to one of those Norman +lords, who, about the year 1090, conquered this part of Wales. Little +notice is taken of this castle in the Welsh chronicles; but we are +informed that it was destroyed in 1231, by Henry II., and that it was +refortified by Henry III. + +{18b} Llanddew, a small village, about two miles from Brecknock, on the +left of the road leading from thence to Hay; its manor belongs to the +bishops of Saint David’s, who had formerly a castellated mansion there, +of which some ruins still remain. The tithes of this parish are +appropriated to the archdeaconry of Brecknock, and here was the residence +of our author Giraldus, which he mentions in several of his writings, and +alludes to with heartfelt satisfaction at the end of the third chapter of +this Itinerary. + +{18c} Aberhodni, the ancient name of the town and castle of Brecknock, +derived from its situation at the confluence of the river Hodni with the +Usk. The castle and two religious buildings, of which the remains are +still extant, owed their foundation to Bernard de Newmarch, a Norman +knight, who, in the year 1090, obtained by conquest the lordship of +Brecknock. [The modern Welsh name is Aberhonddu.] + +{19a} Iestyn ap Gwrgant was lord of the province of Morganwg, or +Glamorgan, and a formidable rival to Rhys ap Tewdwr, prince of South +Wales; but unable to cope with him in power, he prevailed on Robert +Fitzhamon, a Norman knight, to come to his assistance. + +{19b} This little river rises near the ruins of Blanllyfni castle, +between Llangorse pool and the turnpike road leading from Brecknock to +Abergavenny, and empties itself into the river Usk, near Glasbury. + +{19c} A pretty little village on the southern banks of the Usk, about +four miles from Hay, on the road leading to Brecknock. + +{19d} The great desolation here alluded to, is attributed by Dr. Powel +to Howel and Meredyth, sons of Edwyn ap Eineon; not to Howel, son of +Meredith. In the year 1021, they conspired against Llewelyn ap Sitsyllt, +and slew him: Meredith was slain in 1033, and Howel in 1043. + +{19e} William de Breusa, or Braose, was by extraction a Norman, and had +extensive possessions in England, as well as Normandy: he was succeeded +by his son Philip, who, in the reign of William Rufus, favoured the cause +of king Henry against Robert Curthose, duke of Normandy; and being +afterwards rebellious to his sovereign, was disinherited of his lands. +By his marriage with Berta, daughter of Milo, earl of Hereford, he gained +a rich inheritance in Brecknock, Overwent, and Gower. He left issue two +sons: William and Philip: William married Maude de Saint Wallery, and +succeeded to the great estate of his father and mother, which he kept in +peaceable possession during the reigns of king Henry II. and king Richard +I. In order to avoid the persecutions of king John, he retired with his +family to Ireland; and from thence returned into Wales; on hearing of the +king’s arrival in Ireland, his wife Maude fled with her sons into +Scotland, where she was taken prisoner, and in the year 1210 committed, +with William, her son and heir, to Corf castle, and there miserably +starved to death, by order of king John; her husband, William de Braose, +escaped into France, disguised, and dying there, was buried in the abbey +church of Saint Victor, at Paris. The family of Saint Walery, or Valery, +derived their name from a sea-port in France. + +{21} A small church dedicated to Saint David, in the suburbs of +Brecknock, on the great road leading from thence to Trecastle. “The +paroche of Llanvays, Llan-chirch-Vais extra, ac si diceres, extra muros. +It standeth betwixt the river of Uske and Tyrtorelle brooke, that is, +about the lower ende of the town of Brekenok.”—_Leland_, _Itin._ tom. v. +p. 69. + +{22a} David Fitzgerald was promoted to the see of Saint David’s in 1147, +or according to others, in 1149. He died A.D. 1176. + +{22b} Now Howden, in the East Riding of Yorkshire. + +{22c} Osred was king of the Northumbrians, and son of Alfred. He +commenced to reign in A.D. 791, but was deprived of his crown the +following year. + +{23a} St. Kenelm was the only son and heir of Kenulfus, king of the +Mercians, who left him under the care of his two sisters, Quendreda and +Bragenilda. The former, blinded by ambition, resolved to destroy the +innocent child, who stood between her and the throne; and for that +purpose prevailed on Ascebert, who attended constantly on the king, to +murder him privately, giving him hopes, in case he complied with her +wishes, of making him her partner in the kingdom. Under the pretence of +diverting his young master, this wicked servant led him into a retired +vale at Clent, in Staffordshire, and having murdered him, dug a pit, and +cast his body into it, which was discovered by a miracle, and carried in +solemn procession to the abbey of Winchelcomb. In the parish of Clent is +a small chapel dedicated to this saint. + +{23b} Winchelcumbe, or Winchcomb, in the lower part of the hundred of +Kiftsgate, in Gloucestershire, a few miles to the north of Cheltenham. + +{24} St. Kynauc, who flourished about the year 492, was the reputed son +of Brychan, lord of Brecknock, by Benadulved, daughter of Benadyl, a +prince of Powis, whom he seduced during the time of his detention as an +hostage at the court of her father. He is said to have been murdered +upon the mountain called the Van, and buried in the church of Merthyr +Cynawg, or Cynawg the Martyr, near Brecknock, which is dedicated to his +memory. + +{25a} In Welsh, Illtyd, which has been latinised into Iltutus, as in the +instance of St. Iltutus, the celebrated disciple of Germanus, and the +master of the learned Gildas, who founded a college for the instruction +of youth at Llantwit, on the coast of Glamorganshire; but I do not +conceive this to be the same person. The name of Ty-Illtyd, or St. +Illtyd’s house, is still known as Llanamllech, but it is applied to one +of those monuments of Druidical antiquity called a cistvaen, erected upon +an eminence named Maenest, at a short distance from the village. A rude, +upright stone stood formerly on one side of it, and was called by the +country people Maen Illtyd, or Illtyd’s stone, but was removed about a +century ago. A well, the stream of which divides this parish from the +neighbouring one of Llansaintfraid, is called Ffynnon Illtyd, or Illtyd’s +well. This was evidently the site of the hermitage mentioned by +Giraldus. + +{25b} Lhanhamelach, or Llanamllech, is a small village, three miles from +Brecknock, on the road to Abergavenny. + +{26a} The name of Newmarche appears in the chartulary of Battel abbey, +as a witness to one of the charters granted by William the Conqueror to +the monks of Battel in Sussex, upon his foundation of their house. He +obtained the territory of Brecknock by conquest, from Bleddyn ap +Maenarch, the Welsh regulus thereof, about the year 1092, soon after his +countryman, Robert Fitzhamon, had reduced the county of Glamorgan. He +built the present town of Brecknock, where he also founded a priory of +Benedictine monks. According to Leland, he was buried in the cloister of +the cathedral church at Gloucester, though the mutilated remains of an +effigy and monument are still ascribed to him in the priory church at +Brecknock. + +{26b} Brecheinoc, now Brecknockshire, had three cantreds or hundreds, +and eight comots.—1. Cantref Selef with the comots of Selef and +Trahayern.—2. Cantref Canol, or the middle hundred, with the comots +Talgarth, Ystradwy, and Brwynlys, or Eglyws Yail.—3. Cantref Mawr, or the +great hundred, with the comots of Tir Raulff Llywel, and Cerrig +Howel.—Powel’s description of Wales, p. 20. + +{27} Milo was son to Walter, constable of England in the reign of Henry +I., and Emme his wife, one of the daughters of Dru de Baladun, sister to +Hameline de Baladun, a person of great note, who came into England with +William the Conqueror, and, being the first lord of Overwent in the +county of Monmouth, built the castle of Abergavenny. He was wounded by +an arrow while hunting, on Christmas eve, in 1144, and was buried in the +chapter-house of Lanthoni, near Gloucester. + +{28a} Walter de Clifford. The first of this ancient family was called +Ponce; he had issue three sons, Walter, Drogo or Dru, and Richard. The +Conqueror’s survey takes notice of the two former, but from Richard the +genealogical line is preserved, who, being called Richard de Pwns, +obtained, as a gift from king Henry I., the cantref Bychan, or little +hundred, and the castle of Llandovery, in Wales; he left three sons, +Simon, Walter, and Richard. The Walter de Clifford here mentioned was +father to the celebrated Fair Rosamond, the favourite of king Henry II.; +and was succeeded by his eldest son, Walter, who married Margaret, +daughter to Llewelyn, prince of Wales, and widow of John de Braose. + +{28b} Brendlais, or Brynllys, is a small village on the road between +Brecknock and Hay, where a stately round tower marks the site of the +ancient castle of the Cliffords, in which the tyrant Mahel lost his life. + +{29a} St. Almedha, though not included in the ordinary lists, is said to +have been a daughter of Brychan, and sister to St. Canoc, and to have +borne the name of Elevetha, Aled, or Elyned, latinised into Almedha. The +Welsh genealogists say, that she suffered martyrdom on a hill near +Brecknock, where a chapel was erected to her memory; and William of +Worcester says she was buried at Usk. Mr. Hugh Thomas (who wrote an +essay towards the history of Brecknockshire in the year 1698) speaks of +the chapel as standing, though unroofed and useless, in his time; the +people thereabouts call it St. Tayled. It was situated on an eminence, +about a mile to the eastward of Brecknock, and about half a mile from a +farm-house, formerly the mansion and residence of the Aubreys, lords of +the manor of Slwch, which lordship was bestowed upon Sir Reginald Awbrey +by Bernard Newmarche, in the reign of William Rufus. Some small vestiges +of this building may still be traced, and an aged yew tree, with a well +at its foot, marks the site near which the chapel formerly stood. + +{29b} This same habit is still (in Sir Richard Colt Hoare’s time) used +by the Welsh ploughboys; they have a sort of chaunt, consisting of half +or even quarter notes, which is sung to the oxen at plough: the +countrymen vulgarly supposing that the beasts are consoled to work more +regularly and patiently by such a lullaby. + +{30a} The umber, or grayling, is still a plentiful and favourite fish in +the rivers on the Welsh border. + +{30b} About the year 1113, “there was a talke through South Wales, of +Gruffyth, the sonne of Rees ap Theodor, who, for feare of the king, had +beene of a child brought up in Ireland, and had come over two yeares +passed, which time he had spent privilie with his freends, kinsfolks, and +affines; as with Gerald, steward of Penbrooke, his brother-in-law, and +others. But at the last he was accused to the king, that he intended the +kingdome of South Wales as his father had enjoied it, which was now in +the king’s hands; and that all the countrie hoped of libertie through +him; therefore the king sent to take him. But Gryffyth ap Rees hering +this, sent to Gruffyth ap Conan, prince of North Wales, desiring him of +his aid, and that he might remaine safelie within his countrie; which he +granted, and received him joiouslie for his father’s sake.” He +afterwards proved so troublesome and successful an antagonist, that the +king endeavoured by every possible means to get him into his power. To +Gruffyth ap Conan he offered “mountaines of gold to send the said +Gruffyth or his head to him.” And at a subsequent period, he sent for +Owen ap-Cadogan said to him, “Owen, I have found thee true and faithful +unto me, therefore I desire thee to take or kill that murtherer, that +doth so trouble my loving subjects.” But Gruffyth escaped all the snares +which the king had laid for him, and in the year 1137 died a natural and +honourable death; he is styled in the Welsh chronicle, “the light, honor, +and staie of South Wales;” and distinguished as the bravest, the wisest, +the most merciful, liberal, and just, of all the princes of Wales. By +his wife Gwenllian, the daughter of Gruffyth ap Conan, he left a son, +commonly called the lord Rhys, who met the archbishop at Radnor, as is +related in the first chapter of this Itinerary. + +{31} This cantref, which now bears the name of Caeo, is placed, +according to the ancient divisions of Wales, in the cantref Bychan, or +little hundred, and not in the Cantref Mawr, or great hundred. A village +between Lampeter in Cardiganshire and Llandovery in Caermarthenshire, +still bears the name of Cynwil Caeo, and, from its picturesque situation +and the remains of its mines, which were probably worked by the Romans, +deserves the notice of the curious traveller. + +{32} The lake of Brecheinoc bears the several names of Llyn Savaddan, +Brecinau-mere, Llangorse, and Talyllyn Pool, the two latter of which are +derived from the names of parishes on its banks. It is a large, though +by no means a beautiful, piece of water, its banks being low and flat, +and covered with rushes and other aquatic plants to a considerable +distance from the shore. Pike, perch, and eels are the common fish of +this water; tench and trout are rarely, I believe, (if ever), taken in +it. The notion of its having swallowed up an ancient city is not yet +quite exploded by the natives; and some will even attribute the name of +Loventium to it; which is with much greater certainty fixed at +Llanio-isau, between Lampeter and Tregaron, in Cardiganshire, on the +northern banks of the river Teivi, where there are very considerable and +undoubted remains of a large Roman city. The legend of the town at the +bottom of the lake is at the same time very old. + +{33a} That chain of mountains which divides Brecknockshire from +Caermarthenshire, over which the turnpike road formerly passed from +Trecastle to Llandovery, and from which the river Usk derives its source. + +{33b} This mountain is now called, by way of eminence, the Van, or the +height, but more commonly, by country people, Bannau Brycheinog, or the +Brecknock heights, alluding to its two peaks. Our author, Giraldus, +seems to have taken his account of the spring, on the summit of this +mountain, from report, rather than from ocular testimony. I (Sir R. Colt +Hoare) examined the summits of each peak very attentively, and could +discern no spring whatever. The soil is peaty and very boggy. On the +declivity of the southern side of the mountain, and at no considerable +distance from the summit, is a spring of very fine water, which my guide +assured me never failed. On the north-west side of the mountain is a +round pool, in which possibly trout may have been sometimes found, but, +from the muddy nature of its waters, I do not think it very probable; +from this pool issues a small brook, which falls precipitously down the +sides of the mountain, and pursuing its course through a narrow and +well-wooded valley, forms a pretty cascade near a rustic bridge which +traverses it. I am rather inclined think, that Giraldus confounded in +his account the spring and the pool together. + +{34a} The first of these are now styled the Black Mountains, of which +the Gadair Fawr is the principal, and is only secondary to the Van in +height. The Black Mountains are an extensive range of hills rising to +the east of Talgarth, in the several parishes of Talgarth, Llaneliew, and +Llanigorn, in the county of Brecknock, and connected with the heights of +Ewyas. The most elevated point is called Y Gadair, and, excepting the +Brecknock Van (the Cadair Arthur of Giraldus), is esteemed the highest +mountain in South Wales. The mountains of Ewyas are those now called the +Hatterel Hills, rising above the monastery of Llanthoni, and joining the +Black Mountains of Talgarth at Capel y Ffin, or the chapel upon the +boundary, near which the counties of Hereford, Brecknock, and Monmouth +form a point of union. But English writers have generally confounded all +distinction, calling them indiscriminately the Black Mountains, or the +Hatterel Hills. + +{34b} If we consider the circumstances of this chapter, it will appear +very evidently, that the vale of Ewyas made no part of the actual +Itinerary. + +{35} Landewi Nant Hodeni, or the church of St. David on the Hodni, is +now better known by the name of Llanthoni abbey. A small and rustic +chapel, dedicated to St. David, at first occupied the site of this abbey; +in the year 1103, William de Laci, a Norman knight, having renounced the +pleasures of the world, retired to this sequestered spot, where he was +joined in his austere profession by Ernicius, chaplain to queen Maude. +In the year 1108, these hermits erected a mean church in the place of +their hermitage, which was consecrated by Urban, bishop of Llandaff, and +Rameline, bishop of Hereford, and dedicated to St. John the Baptist: +having afterward received very considerable benefactions from Hugh de +Laci, and gained the consent of Anselm, archbishop of Canterbury, these +same hermits founded a magnificent monastery for Black canons, of the +order of St. Augustine, which they immediately filled with forty monks +collected from the monasteries of the Holy Trinity in London, Merton in +Surrey, and Colchester in Essex. They afterwards removed to Gloucester, +where they built a church and spacious monastery, which, after the name +of their former residence, they called Llanthoni; it was consecrated A.D. +1136, by Simon, bishop of Worcester, and Robert Betun bishop of Hereford, +and dedicated to the Virgin Mary. + +{36a} The titles of mother and daughter are here applied to the mother +church in Wales, and the daughter near Gloucester. + +{36b} William of Wycumb, the fourth prior of Llanthoni, succeeded to +Robert de Braci, who was obliged to quit the monastery, on account of the +hostile molestation it received from the Welsh. To him succeeded +Clement, the sub-prior, and to Clement, Roger de Norwich. + +{38} Walter de Laci came into England with William the Conqueror, and +left three sons, Roger, Hugh, and Walter. Hugh de Laci was the lord of +Ewyas, and became afterwards the founder of the convent of Llanthoni; his +elder brother, Robert, held also four caracutes of land within the limits +of the castle of Ewyas, which king William had bestowed on Walter, his +father; but joining in rebellion against William Rufus, he was banished +the kingdom, and all his lands were given to his brother Hugh, who died +without issue. + +{41} This anecdote is thus related by the historian Hollinshed: “Hereof +it came on a time, whiles the king sojourned in France about his warres, +which he held against king Philip, there came unto him a French priest, +whose name was Fulco, who required the king in anywise to put from him +three abominable daughters which he had, and to bestow them in marriage, +least God punished him for them. ‘Thou liest, hypocrite (said the king), +to thy verie face; for all the world knoweth I have not one daughter.’ +‘I lie not (said the priest), for thou hast three daughters: one of them +is called Pride, the second Covetousness, and the third Lecherie.’ With +that the king called to him his lords and barons, and said to them, ‘This +hypocrite heere hath required me to marry awaie my three daughters, which +(as he saith) I cherish, nourish, foster, and mainteine; that is to say, +Pride, Covetousness, and Lecherie: and now that I have found out +necessarie and fit husbands for them, I will do it with effect, and seeks +no more delaies. I therefore bequeath my pride to the high-minded +Templars and Hospitallers, which are as proud as Lucifer himselfe; my +covetousness I give unto the White Monks, otherwise called of the +Cisteaux order, for they covet the divell and all; my lecherie I commit +to the prelats of the church, who have most pleasure and felicitie +therein.’” + +{44a} This small residence of the archdeacon was at Landeu, a place +which has been described before: the author takes this opportunity of +hinting at his love of literature, religion, and mediocrity. + +{44b} The last chapter having been wholly digressive, we must now recur +back to Brecknock, or rather, perhaps, to our author’s residence at +Landeu, where we left him, and from thence accompany him to Abergavenny. +It appears that from Landeu he took the road to Talgarth, a small village +a little to the south east of the road leading from Brecknock to Hay; +from whence, climbing up a steep ascent, now called Rhiw Cwnstabl, or the +Constable’s ascent, he crossed the black mountains of Llaneliew to the +source of the Gronwy-fawr river, which rises in that eminence, and +pursues its rapid course into the Vale of Usk. From thence a rugged and +uneven track descends suddenly into a narrow glen, formed by the torrent +of the Gronwy, between steep, impending mountains; bleak and barren for +the first four or five miles, but afterwards wooded to the very margin of +the stream. A high ledge of grassy hills on the left hand, of which the +principal is called the Bal, or Y Fal, divides this formidable pass (the +“Malus passus” of Giraldus) from the vale of Ewyas, in which stands the +noble monastery of Llanthoni, “montibus suis inclusum,” encircled by its +mountains. The road at length emerging from this deep recess of Coed +Grono, or Cwm Gronwy, the vale of the river Gronwy, crosses the river at +a place called Pont Escob, or the Bishop’s bridge, probably so called +from this very circumstance of its having been now passed by the +archbishop and his suite, and is continued through the forest of Moel, +till it joins the Hereford road, about two miles from Abergavenny. This +formidable defile is at least nine miles in length. + +{45} In the vale of the Gronwy, about a mile above Pont Escob, there is +a wood called Coed Dial, or the Wood of Revenge. Here again, by the +modern name of the place, we are enabled to fix the very spot on which +Richard de Clare was murdered. The Welsh Chronicle informs us, that “in +1135, Morgan ap Owen, a man of considerable quality and estate in Wales, +remembering the wrong and injury he had received at the hands of Richard +Fitz-Gilbert, slew him, together with his son Gilbert.” The first of +this great family, Richard de Clare, was the eldest son of Gislebert, +surnamed Crispin, earl of Brion, in Normandy. This Richard Fitz-Gilbert +came into England with William the Conqueror, and received from him great +advancement in honour and possessions. On the death of the Conqueror, +favouring the cause of Robert Curthose, he rebelled against William +Rufus, but when that king appeared in arms before his castle at +Tunbridge, he submitted; after which, adhering to Rufus against Robert, +in 1091, he was taken prisoner, and shortly after the death of king Henry +I., was assassinated, on his journey through Wales, in the manner already +related. + +{46} Hamelin, son of Dru de Baladun, who came into England with William +the Conqueror, was the first lord of Over-Went, and built a castle at +Abergavenny, on the same spot where, according to ancient tradition, a +giant called Agros had erected a fortress. He died in the reign of +William Rufus, and was buried in the priory which he had founded at +Abergavenny; having no issue, he gave the aforesaid castle and lands to +Brian de Insula, or Brian de Wallingford, his nephew, by his sister +Lucia. The enormous excesses mentioned by Giraldus, as having been +perpetrated in this part of Wales during his time, seem to allude to a +transaction that took place in the castle of Abergavenny, in the year +1176, which is thus related by two historians, Matthew Paris and +Hollinshed. “A.D. 1176, The same yeare, William de Breause having got a +great number of Welshmen into the castle of Abergavennie, under a +colourable pretext of communication, proposed this ordinance to be +received of them with a corporall oth, ‘That no traveller by the waie +amongst them should beare any bow, or other unlawful weapon,’ which oth, +when they refused to take, because they would not stand to that +ordinance, he condemned them all to death. This deceit he used towards +them, in revenge of the death of his uncle Henrie of Hereford, whom upon +Easter-even before they had through treason murthered, and were now +acquited was the like againe.”—Hollinshed, tom. ii. p. 95. + +{48} Landinegat, or the church of St. Dingad, is now better known by the +name of Dingatstow, or Dynastow, a village near Monmouth. + +{49a} [For the end of William de Braose, see footnote 34.] + +{49b} Leland divides this district into Low, Middle, and High Venteland, +extending from Chepstow to Newport on one side, and to Abergavenny on the +other; the latter of which, he says, “maketh the cumpace of Hye +Venteland.” He adds, “The soyle of al Venteland is of a darke reddische +yerth ful of slaty stones, and other greater of the same color. The +countrey is also sumwhat montayneus, and welle replenishid with woodes, +also very fertyle of corne, but men there study more to pastures, the +which be well inclosed.”—_Leland_, _Itin._ tom. v. p. 6. Ancient +Gwentland is now comprised within the county of Monmouth. + +{50a} William de Salso Marisco, who succeeded to the bishopric of +Llandaff, A.D. 1185, and presided over that see during the time of +Baldwin’s visitation, in 1188. + +{50b} Alexander was the fourth archdeacon of the see of Bangor. + +{50c} Once at Usk, then at Caerleon, and afterwards on entering the town +of Newport. + +{51} Gouldcliffe, or Goldcliff, is situated a few miles S.E. of Newport, +on the banks of the Severn. In the year 1113, Robert de Candos founded +and endowed the church of Goldclive, and, by the advice of king Henry I., +gave it to the abbey of Bec, in Normandy; its religious establishment +consisted of a prior and twelve monks of the order of St. Benedict. + +{53} [Geoffrey of Monmouth.] + +{54} The Cistercian abbey here alluded to was known by the several names +of Ystrat Marchel, Strata Marcella, Alba domus de Stratmargel, Vallis +Crucis, or Pola, and was situated between Guilsfield and Welshpool, in +Montgomeryshire. Authors differ in opinion about its original founder. +Leland attributes it to Owen Cyveilioc, prince of Powys, and Dugdale to +Madoc, the son of Gruffydh, giving for his authority the original grants +and endowments of this abbey. According to Tanner, about the beginning +of the reign of king Edward III., the Welsh monks were removed from hence +into English abbeys, and English monks were placed here, and the abbey +was made subject to the visitation of the abbot and convent of Buildwas, +in Shropshire. + +{56a} Cardiff, _i.e._, the fortress on the river Taf. + +{56b} Gwentluc—so called from Gwent, the name of the province, and llug, +open, to distinguish it from the upper parts of Wentland, is an extensive +tract of flat, marshy ground, reaching from Newport to the shores of the +river Severn. + +{56c} Nant Pencarn, or the brook of Pencarn.—After a very attentive +examination of the country round Newport, by natives of that place, and +from the information I have received on the subject, I am inclined to +think that the river here alluded to was the Ebwy, which flows about a +mile and a half south of Newport. Before the new turnpike road and +bridge were made across Tredegar Park, the old road led to a ford lower +down the river, and may still be travelled as far as Cardiff; and was +probably the ford mentioned in the text, as three old farm-houses in its +neighbourhood still retain the names of Great Pencarn, Little Pencarn, +and Middle Pencarn. + +{57} Robert Fitz-Hamon, earl of Astremeville, in Normandy, came into +England with William the Conqueror; and, by the gift of William Rufus, +obtained the honour of Gloucester. He was wounded with a spear at the +siege of Falaise, in Normandy, died soon afterwards, and was buried, A.D. +1102, in the abbey of Tewkesbury, which he had founded. Leaving no male +issue, king Henry gave his eldest daughter, Mabel, or Maude, who, in her +own right, had the whole honour of Gloucester, to his illegitimate son +Robert, who was advanced to the earldom of Gloucester by the king, his +father. He died A.D. 1147, and left four sons: William, the personage +here mentioned by Giraldus, who succeeded him in his titles and honours; +Roger, bishop of Worcester, who died at Tours in France, A.D. 1179; +Hamon, who died at the siege of Toulouse, A.D. 1159; and Philip. + +{58a} The Coychurch Manuscript quoted by Mr. Williams, in his History of +Monmouthshire, asserts that Morgan, surnamed Mwyn-fawr, or the Gentle, +the son of Athrwy, not having been elected to the chief command of the +British armies, upon his father’s death retired from Caerleon, and took +up his residence in Glamorganshire, sometimes at Radyr, near Cardiff, and +at other times at Margam; and from this event the district derived its +name, quasi Gwlad-Morgan, the country of Morgan. + +{58b} St. Piranus, otherwise called St. Kiaran, or Piran, was an Irish +saint, said to have been born in the county of Ossory, or of Cork, about +the middle of the fourth century; and after that by his labours the +Gospel had made good progress, he forsook all worldly things, and spent +the remainder of his life in religious solitude. The place of his +retirement was on the sea-coast of Cornwall, and not far from Padstow, +where, as Camden informs us, there was a chapel on the sands erected to +his memory. Leland has informed us, that the chapel of St. Perine, at +Caerdiff, stood in Shoemaker Street. + +{59} So called from a parish of that name in Glamorganshire, situated +between Monk Nash and St. Donat’s, upon the Bristol Channel. + +{60} Barri Island is situated on the coast of Glamorganshire; and, +according to Cressy, took its name from St. Baruc, the hermit, who +resided, and was buried there. The Barrys in Ireland, as well as the +family of Giraldus, who were lords of it, are said to have derived their +names from this island. Leland, in speaking of this island, says, “The +passage into Barrey isle at ful se is a flite shot over, as much as the +Tamise is above the bridge. At low water, there is a broken causey to go +over, or els over the shalow streamelet of Barrey-brook on the sands. +The isle is about a mile in cumpace, and hath very good corne, grasse, +and sum wood; the ferme of it worth a £10 a yere. There ys no dwelling +in the isle, but there is in the middle of it a fair little chapel of St. +Barrok, where much pilgrimage was usid.” [The “fair little chapel” has +disappeared, and “Barry Island” is now, since the construction of the +great dock, connected with the mainland, it is covered with houses, and +its estimated capital value is now £250,000]. + +{61a} William de Salso Marisco. + +{61b} The see of Llandaff is said to have been founded by the British +king Lucius as early as the year 180. + +{61c} From Llandaff, our crusaders proceeded towards the Cistercian +monastery of Margam, passing on their journey near the little cell of +Benedictines at Ewenith, or Ewenny. This religious house was founded by +Maurice de Londres towards the middle of the twelfth century. It is +situated in a marshy plain near the banks of the little river Ewenny. + +{62} The Cistercian monastery of Margam, justly celebrated for the +extensive charities which its members exercised, was founded A.D. 1147, +by Robert earl of Gloucester, who died in the same year. Of this +once-famed sanctuary nothing now remains but the shell of its +chapter-house, which, by neglect, has lost its most ornamental parts. +When Mr. Wyndham made the tour of Wales in the year 1777, this elegant +building was entire, and was accurately drawn and engraved by his orders. + +{65} In continuing their journey from Neath to Swansea, our travellers +directed their course by the sea-coast to the river Avon, which they +forded, and, continuing their road along the sands, were probably ferried +over the river Neath, at a place now known by the name of Breton Ferry, +leaving the monastery of Neath at some distance to the right: from thence +traversing another tract of sands, and crossing the river Tawe, they +arrived at the castle of Swansea, where they passed the night. + +{66} The monastery of Neath was situated on the banks of a river bearing +the same name, about a mile to the westward of the town and castle. It +was founded in 1112, by Richard de Grainville, or Greenefeld, and +Constance, his wife, for the safety of the souls of Robert, earl of +Gloucester, Maude, his wife, and William, his son. Richard de Grainville +was one of the twelve Norman knights who accompanied Robert Fitz-Hamon, +and assisted him in the conquest of Glamorganshire. In the time of +Leland this abbey was in a high state of preservation, for he says, “Neth +abbay of white monkes, a mile above Neth town, standing in the ripe of +Neth, semid to me the fairest abbay of al Wales.”—_Leland_, _Itin._ tom. +v. p. 14. The remains of the abbey and of the adjoining priory-house are +considerable; but this ancient retirement of the grey and white monks is +now occupied by the inhabitants of the neighbouring copper-works. + +{67a} Gower, the western district of Glamorganshire, appears to have +been first conquered by Henry de Newburg, earl of Warwick, soon after +Robert, duke of Gloucester, had made the conquest of the other part of +Glamorganshire. + +{67b} Sweynsei, Swansea, or Abertawe, situated at the confluence of the +river Tawe with the Severn sea, is a town of considerable commerce, and +much frequented during the summer months as a bathing-place. The old +castle, now made use of as a prison, is so surrounded by houses in the +middle of the town, that a stranger might visit Swansea without knowing +that such a building existed. The Welsh Chronicle informs us, that it +was built by Henry de Beaumont, earl of Warwick, and that in the year +1113 it was attacked by Gruffydd ap Rhys, but without success. This +castle became afterwards a part of the possessions of the see of St. +David’s, and was rebuilt by bishop Gower. [The old castle is no longer +used as a prison, but as the office of the “Cambria Daily Leader.” It is +significant that Swansea is still known to Welshmen, as in the days of +Giraldus, as “Abertawe.”] + +{71a} Lochor, or Llwchwr, was the Leucarum mentioned in the Itineraries, +and the fifth Roman station on the Via Julia. This small village is +situated on a tide-river bearing the same name, which divides the +counties of Glamorgan and Caermarthen, and over which there is a ferry. +“Lochor river partith Kidwelli from West Gowerlande.”—_Leland_, _Itin._ +tom. v. p. 23. [The ferry is no more. The river is crossed by a fine +railway bridge.] + +{71b} Wendraeth, or Gwen-draeth, from gwen, white, and traeth, the sandy +beach of the sea. There are two rivers of this name, Gwendraeth fawr, +and Gwendraeth fychan, the great and the little Gwendraeth, of which +Leland thus speaks: “Vendraeth Vawr and Vendraith Vehan risith both in +Eskenning commote: the lesse an eight milys of from Kydwelli, the other +about a ten, and hath but a little nesche of sand betwixt the places wher +thei go into the se, about a mile beneth the towne of Kidwely.” + +{71c} Cydweli was probably so called from cyd, a junction, and wyl, a +flow, or gushing out, being situated near the junction of the rivers +Gwendraeth fawr and fychan; but Leland gives its name a very singular +derivation, and worthy of our credulous and superstitious author +Giraldus. “Kidwely, otherwise Cathweli, i.e. Catti lectus, quia Cattus +olim solebat ibi lectum in quercu facere:—There is a little towne now but +newly made betwene Vendraith Vawr and Vendraith Vehan. Vendraith Vawr is +half a mile of.”—_Leland_, _Itin._ tom. v. p. 22. + +{72} The scene of the battle fought between Gwenllian and Maurice de +Londres is to this day called Maes Gwenllian, the plain or field of +Gwenllian; and there is a tower in the castle of Cydweli still called Tyr +Gwenllian. [Maes Gwenllian is now a small farm, one of whose fields is +said to have been the scene of the battle.] + +{73a} The castle of Talachar is now better known by the name of +Llaugharne. + +{73b} Much has been said and written by ancient authors respecting the +derivation of the name of this city, which is generally allowed to be the +Muridunum, or Maridunum, mentioned in the Roman itineraries. Some derive +it from Caer and Merddyn, that is, the city of the prophet Merddyn; and +others from Mûr and Murddyn, which in the British language signify a +wall. There can, however, be little doubt that it is derived simply from +the Roman name Muridunum. The county gaol occupies the site of the old +castle, a few fragments of which are seen intermixed with the houses of +the town. + +{73c} Dinevor, the great castle, from dinas, a castle, and vawr, great, +was in ancient times a royal residence of the princes of South Wales. In +the year 876, Roderic the Great, having divided the principalities of +North and South Wales, and Powys land, amongst his three sons, built for +each of them a palace. The sovereignty of South Wales, with the castle +of Dinevor, fell to the lot of Cadell. [The ruins of Dinevor Castle +still crown the summit of the hill which overshadows the town of +Llandilo, 12 miles from Carmarthen.] + +{74a} There is a spring very near the north side of Dinevor park wall, +which bears the name of Nant-y-rhibo, or the bewitched brook, which may, +perhaps, be the one here alluded to by Giraldus. + +{74b} Pencadair is a small village situated to the north of Carmarthen. + +{75a} Alba Domus was called in Welsh Ty Gwyn ar Daf, or the White House +on the river Taf. In the history of the primitive British church, Ty +Gwyn, or white house, is used in a sense equivalent to a charter-house. +The White House College, or Bangor y Ty Gwyn, is pretended to have been +founded about 480, by Paul Hên, or Paulius, a saint of the congregation +of Illtyd. From this origin, the celebrated Cistercian monastery is said +to have derived its establishment. Powel, in his chronicle, says, “For +the first abbey or frier house that we read of in Wales, sith the +destruction of the noble house of Bangor, which savoured not of Romish +dregges, was the Tuy Gwyn, built the yeare 1146, and after they swarmed +like bees through all the countrie.” (Powel, p. 254.)—Authors differ +with respect to the founder of this abbey; some have attributed it to +Rhys ap Tewdwr, prince of South Wales; and others to Bernard, bishop of +Saint David’s, who died about the year 1148. The latter account is +corroborated by the following passage in Wharton’s Anglia Sacra: “Anno +1143 ducti sunt monachi ordinis Cisterciensis qui modo sunt apud Albam +Landam, in West Walliam, per Bernardum episcopum.” Leland, in his +Collectanea, says, “Whitland, abbat. Cistert., Rhesus filius Theodori +princeps Suth Walliæ primus fundator;” and in his Itinerary, mentions it +as a convent of Bernardynes, “which yet stondeth.” + +{75b} Saint Clears is a long, straggling village, at the junction of the +river Cathgenny with the Tâf. Immediately on the banks of the former, +and not far from its junction with the latter, stood the castle, of which +not one stone is left; but the artificial tumulus on which the citadel +was placed, and other broken ground, mark its ancient site. + +{76a} Lanwadein, now called Lawhaden, is a small village about four +miles from Narberth, on the banks of the river Cleddeu. + +{76b} Daugleddeu, so called from Dau, two, and Cled, or Cleddau, a +sword. The rivers Cledheu have their source in the Prescelly mountain, +unite their streams below Haverfordwest, and run into Milford Haven, +which in Welsh is called Aberdaugleddau, or the confluence of the two +rivers Cledheu. + +{76c} Haverford, now called Haverfordwest, is a considerable town on the +river Cledheu, with an ancient castle, three churches, and some monastic +remains. The old castle (now used as the county gaol), from its size and +commanding situation, adds greatly to the picturesque appearance of this +town. [The old castle is no longer used as a gaol.] + +{79a} The province of Rhos, in which the town of Haverfordwest is +situated, was peopled by a colony of Flemings during the reign of king +Henry I. + +{79b} St. Caradoc was born of a good family in Brecknockshire, and after +a liberal education at home, attached himself to the court of Rhys Prince +of South Wales, whom he served a long time with diligence and fidelity. +He was much esteemed and beloved by him, till having unfortunately lost +two favourite greyhounds, which had been committed to his care, that +prince, in a fury, threatened his life; upon which Caradoc determined to +change masters, and made a vow on the spot to consecrate the remainder of +his days to God, by a single and religious life. He went to Llandaff, +received from its bishop the clerical tonsure and habit, and retired to +the deserted church of St. Kined, and afterwards to a still more solitary +abode in the Isle of Ary, from whence he was taken prisoner by some +Norwegian pirates, but soon released. His last place of residence was at +St. Ismael, in the province of Rhos, where he died in 1124, and was +buried with great honour in the cathedral of St. David’s. We must not +confound this retreat of Caradoc with the village of St. Ismael on the +borders of Milford Haven. His hermitage was situated in the parish of +Haroldstone, near the town of Haverfordwest, whose church has St. Ismael +for its patron, and probably near a place called Poorfield, the common on +which Haverfordwest races are held, as there is a well there called +Caradoc’s Well, round which, till within these few years, there was a +sort of vanity fair, where cakes were sold, and country games celebrated. +[Caradoc was canonised by Pope Innocent III. at the instance of +Giraldus.] + +{80} This curious superstition is still preserved, in a debased form, +among the descendants of the Flemish population of this district, where +the young women practise a sort of divination with the bladebone of a +shoulder of mutton to discover who will be their sweetheart. It is still +more curious that William de Rubruquis, in the thirteenth century, found +the same superstition existing among the Tartars. + +{82a} Arnulph, younger son of Roger de Montgomery, did his homage for +Dyved, and is said, by our author, to have erected a slender fortress +with stakes and turf at Pembroke, in the reign of king Henry I., which, +however, appears to have been so strong as to have resisted the hostile +attack of Cadwgan ap Bleddyn in 1092, and of several lords of North +Wales, in 1094. + +{82b} Walter Fitz-Other, at the time of the general survey of England by +William the Conqueror, was castellan of Windsor, warden of the forests in +Berkshire, and possessed several lordships in the counties of Middlesex, +Hampshire, and Buckinghamshire, which dominus Otherus is said to have +held in the time of Edward the Confessor. William, the eldest son of +Walter, took the surname of Windsor from his father’s office, and was +ancestor to the lords Windsor, who have since been created earls of +Plymouth: and from Gerald, brother of William, the Geralds, Fitz-geralds, +and many other families are lineally descended. The Gerald here +mentioned by Giraldus is sometimes surnamed De Windsor, and also +Fitz-Walter, _i.e._ the son of Walter; having slain Owen, son of Cadwgan +ap Bleddyn, chief lord of Cardiganshire, he was made president of the +county of Pembroke. + +{83} Wilfred is mentioned by Browne Willis in his list of bishops of St. +David’s, as the forty-seventh, under the title of Wilfride, or Griffin: +he died about the year 1116. + +{84} Maenor Pyrr, now known by the name of Manorbeer, is a small village +on the sea coast, between Tenby and Pembroke, with the remaining shell of +a large castle. Our author has given a farfetched etymology to this +castle and the adjoining island, in calling them the mansion and island +of Pyrrhus: a much more natural and congenial conjecture may be made in +supposing Maenor Pyrr to be derived from Maenor, a Manor, and Pyrr the +plural of Por, a lord; _i.e._ the Manor of the lords, and, consequently, +Inys Pyrr, the Island of the lords. As no mention whatever is made of +the castle in the Welsh Chronicle, I am inclined to think it was only a +castellated mansion, and therefore considered of no military importance +in those days of continued warfare throughout Wales. It is one of the +most interesting spots in our author’s Itinerary, for it was the property +of the Barri family, and the birth-place of Giraldus; in the parish +church, the sepulchral effigy of a near relation, perhaps a brother, is +still extant, in good preservation. Our author has evidently made a +digression in order to describe this place. + +{86a} The house of Stephen Wiriet was, I presume, Orielton. There is a +monument in the church of St. Nicholas, at Pembroke, to the memory of +John, son and heir of Sir Hugh Owen, of Bodeon in Anglesea, knight, and +Elizabeth, daughter and heir of George Wiriet, of Orielton, A.D. 1612. + +{86b} The family name of Not, or Nott, still exists in Pembrokeshire. +[The descendants of Sir Hugh continued to live at Orielton, and the title +is still in existence.] + +{88} There are two churches in Pembrokeshire called Stackpoole, one of +which, called Stackpoole Elidor, derived its name probably from the +Elidore de Stakepole mentioned in this chapter by Giraldus. It contains +several ancient monuments, and amongst them the effigies of a +cross-legged knight, which has been for many years attributed to the +aforesaid Elidore. + +{90} Ramsey Island, near St. David’s, was always famous for its breed of +falcons. + +{91a} Camros, a small village, containing nothing worthy of remark, +excepting a large tumulus. It appears, by this route of the Crusaders, +that the ancient road to Menevia, or St. David’s, led through Camros, +whereas the present turnpike road lies a mile and a half to the left of +it. It then descends to Niwegal Sands, and passes near the picturesque +little harbour of Solvach, situated in a deep and narrow cove, surrounded +by high rocks. + +{91b} The remains of vast submerged forests are commonly found on many +parts of the coast of Wales, especially in the north. Giraldus has +elsewhere spoken of this event in the Vaticinal History, book i. chap. +35. + +{94} Giraldus, ever glad to _pun_ upon words, here opposes the word +_nomen_ to _omen_. “_Plus nominis habens quàm ominis_.” He may have +perhaps borrowed this expression from Plautus. Plautus Delphini, tom. +ii. p. 27.—Actus iv., Scena iv. + +{96} Armorica is derived from the Celtic words Ar and Mor, which signify +on or near the sea, and so called to distinguish it from the more inland +parts of Britany. The maritime cities of Gaul were called “Armoricæ +civitates—Universis civitatibus quæ oceanum attingunt, quæque Gallorum +consuetudine Armoricæ appellantur.”—_Cæsar_. _Comment_, lib. vii. + +{97} The bishops of Hereford, Worcester, Llandaff, Bangor, St. Asaph, +Llanbadarn, and Margam, or Glamorgan. + +{98} The value of the carucate is rather uncertain, or, probably, it +varied in different districts according to the character of the land; but +it is considered to have been usually equivalent to a hide, that is, to +about 240 statute acres. + +{99a} This little brook does not, in modern times, deserve the title +here given to it by Giraldus, for it produces trout of a most delicious +flavour. + +{99b} See the Vaticinal History, book i. c. 37. + +{100} Lechlavar, so called from the words in Welsh, Llêc, a stone, and +Llavar, speech. + +{102a} Cemmeis, Cemmaes, Kemes, and Kemeys. Thus is the name of this +district variously spelt. Cemmaes in Welsh signifies a circle or +amphitheatre for games. + +{102b} [Cardigan.] + +{102c} There is place in Cemmaes now called Tre-liffan, _i.e._ Toad’s +town; and over a chimney-piece in the house there is a figure of a toad +sculptured in marble, said to have been brought from Italy, and intended +probably to confirm and commemorate this tradition of Giraldus. + +{103a} Preseleu, Preselaw, Prescelly, Presselw. + +{103b} St. Bernacus is said, by Cressy, to have been a man of admirable +sanctity, who, through devotion, made a journey to Rome; and from thence +returning into Britany, filled all places with the fame of his piety and +miracles. He is commemorated on the 7th of April. Several churches in +Wales were dedicated to him; one of which, called Llanfyrnach, or the +church of St. Bernach, is situated on the eastern side of the Prescelley +mountain. + +{103c} The “castrum apud Lanhever” was at Nevern, a small village +between Newport and Cardigan, situated on the banks of a little river +bearing the same name which discharges itself into the sea at Newport. +On a hill immediately above the western side of the parish church, is the +site of a large castle, undoubtedly the one alluded to by Giraldus. + +{105a} On the Cemmaes, or Pembrokeshire side of the river Teivi, and +near the end of the bridge, there is a place still called Park y Cappel, +or the Chapel Field, which is undoubtedly commemorative of the +circumstance recorded by our author. + +{105b} Now known by the name of Kenarth, which may be derived from Cefn +y garth—the back of the wear, a ridge of land behind the wear. + +{106a} The name of St. Ludoc is not found in the lives of the saints. +Leland mentions a St. Clitauc, who had a church dedicated to him in South +Wales, and who was killed by some of his companions whilst hunting. +“Clitaucus Southe-Walliæ regulus inter venandum a suis sodalibus occisus +est. Ecciesia S. Clitauci in Southe Wallia.”—_Leland_, _Itin._, tom. +viii. p. 95. + +{106b} The Teivy is still very justly distinguished for the quantity and +quality of its salmon, but the beaver no longer disturbs its streams. +That this animal did exist in the days of Howel Dha (though even then a +rarity), the mention made of it in his laws, and the high price set upon +its skin, most clearly evince; but if the castor of Giraldus, and the +avanc of Humphrey Llwyd and of the Welsh dictionaries, be really the same +animal, it certainly was not peculiar to the Teivi, but was equally known +in North Wales, as the names of places testify. A small lake in +Montgomeryshire is called Llyn yr Afangc; a pool in the river Conwy, not +far from Bettws, bears the same name, and the vale called Nant Ffrancon, +upon the river Ogwen, in Caernarvonshire, is supposed by the natives to +be a corruption from Nant yr Afan cwm, or the Vale of the Beavers. Mr. +Owen, in his dictionary, says, “That it has been seen in this vale within +the memory of man.” Giraldus has previously spoken of the beaver in his +Topography of Ireland, Distinc. i. c. 21. + +{109a} Our author having made a long digression, in order to introduce +the history of the beaver, now continues his Itinerary. From Cardigan, +the archbishop proceeded towards Pont-Stephen, leaving a hill, called +Cruc Mawr, on the left hand, which still retains its ancient name, and +agrees exactly with the position given to it by Giraldus. On its summit +is a tumulus, and some appearance of an intrenchment. + +{109b} In 1135. + +{109c} Lampeter, or Llanbedr, a small town near the river Teivi, still +retains the name of Pont-Stephen. + +{109d} Leland thus speaks of Ystrad Fflur or Strata Florida: +“Strateflere is set round about with montanes not far distant, except on +the west parte, where Diffrin Tyve is. Many hilles therabout hath bene +well woddid, as evidently by old rotes apperith, but now in them is +almost no woode—the causes be these. First, the wood cut down was never +copisid, and this hath beene a cause of destruction of wood thorough +Wales. Secondly, after cutting down of woodys, the gottys hath so bytten +the young spring that it never grew but lyke shrubbes. Thirddely, men +for the monys destroied the great woddis that thei should not harborow +theves.” This monastery is situated in the wildest part of +Cardiganshire, surrounded on three sides by a lofty range of those +mountains, called by our author Ellennith; a spot admirably suited to the +severe and recluse order of the Cistercians. + +{110a} [Melenydd or Maelienydd.] + +{110b} Leaving Stratflur, the archbishop and his train returned to +Llanddewi Brefi, and from thence proceeded to Llanbadarn Vawr. + +{111} Llanbadarn Fawr, the church of St. Paternus the Great, is situated +in a valley, at a short distance from the sea-port town of Aberystwyth in +Cardiganshire. + +{112} The name of this bishop is said to have been Idnerth, and the same +personage whose death is commemorated in an inscription at Llanddewi +Brefi. + +{113a} This river is now called Dovey. + +{113b} From Llanbadarn our travellers directed their course towards the +sea-coast, and ferrying over the river Dovey, which separates North from +South Wales, proceeded to Towyn, in Merionethshire, where they passed the +night. [Venedotia is the Latin name for Gwynedd.] + +{113c} The province of Merionyth was at this period occupied by David, +the son of Owen Gwynedd, who had seized it forcibly from its rightful +inheritor. This Gruffydd—who must not be confused with his +great-grandfather, the famous Gruffydd ap Conan, prince of Gwynedd—was +son to Conan ap Owen Gwynedd; he died A.D. 1200, and was buried in a +monk’s cowl, in the abbey of Conway. + +{113d} The epithet “bifurcus,” ascribed by Giraldus to the river Maw, +alludes to its two branches, which unite their streams a little way below +Llaneltid bridge, and form an æstuary, which flows down to the sea at +Barmouth or Aber Maw. The ford at this place, discovered by Malgo, no +longer exists. + +{114a} Llanfair is a small village, about a mile and a half from +Harlech, with a very simple church, placed in a retired spot, backed by +precipitous mountains. Here the archbishop and Giraldus slept, on their +journey from Towyn to Nevyn. + +{114b} Ardudwy was a comot of the cantref Dunodic, in Merionethshire, +and according to Leland, “Streccith from half Trait Mawr to Abermaw on +the shore XII myles.” The bridge here alluded to, was probably over the +river Artro, which forms a small æstuary near the village of Llanbedr. + +{115a} The Traeth Mawr, or the large sands, are occasioned by a variety +of springs and rivers which flow from the Snowdon mountains, and, uniting +their streams, form an æstuary below Pont Aberglaslyn. + +{115b} The Traeth Bychan, or the small sands, are chiefly formed by the +river which runs down the beautiful vale of Festiniog to Maentwrog and +Tan y bwlch, near which place it becomes navigable. Over each of these +sands the road leads from Merionyth into Caernarvonshire. + +{115c} Lleyn, the Canganorum promontorium of Ptolemy, was an extensive +hundred containing three comots, and comprehending that long neck of land +between Caernarvon and Cardigan bays. Leland says, “Al Lene is as it +were a pointe into the se.” + +{115d} In mentioning the rivers which the missionaries had lately +crossed, our author has been guilty of a great topographical error in +placing the river Dissennith between the Maw and Traeth Mawr, as also in +placing the Arthro between the Traeth Mawr and Traeth Bychan, as a glance +at a map will shew. + +{115e} To two personages of this name the gift of prophecy was anciently +attributed: one was called Ambrosius, the other Sylvestris; the latter +here mentioned (and whose works Giraldus, after a long research, found at +Nefyn) was, according to the story, the son of Morvryn, and generally +called Merddin Wyllt, or Merddin the Wild. He is pretended to have +flourished about the middle of the sixth century, and ranked with Merddin +Emrys and Taliesin, under the appellation of the three principal bards of +the Isle of Britain. + +{116a} This island once afforded, according to the old accounts, an +asylum to twenty thousand saints, and after death, graves to as many of +their bodies; whence it has been called Insula Sanctorum, the Isle of +Saints. This island derived its British name of Enlli from the fierce +current which rages between it and the main land. The Saxons named it +Bardsey, probably from the Bards, who retired hither, preferring solitude +to the company of invading foreigners. + +{116b} This ancient city has been recorded by a variety of names. +During the time of the Romans it was called Segontium, the site of which +is now called Caer Seiont, the fortress on the river Seiont, where the +Setantiorum portus, and the Seteia Æstuarium of Ptolemy have also been +placed. It is called, by Nennius, Caer Custent, or the city of +Constantius; and Matthew of Westminster says, that about the year 1283 +the body of Constantius, father of the emperor Constantine, was found +there, and honourably desposited in the church by order of Edward I. + +{116c} I have searched in vain for a valley which would answer the +description here given by Geraldus, and the scene of so much pleasantry +to the travellers; for neither do the old or new road, from Caernarvon to +Bangor, in any way correspond. But I have since been informed, that +there is a valley called Nant y Garth (near the residence of Ashton +Smith, Esq. at Vaenol), which terminates at about half a mile’s distance +from the Menai, and therefore not observable from the road; it is a +serpentine ravine of more than a mile, in a direction towards the +mountains, and probably that which the crusaders crossed on their journey +to Bangor. + +{117} Bangor.—This cathedral church must not be confounded with the +celebrated college of the same name, in Flintshire, founded by Dunod +Vawr, son of Pabo, a chieftain who lived about the beginning of the sixth +century, and from him called Bangor Dunod. The Bangor, _i.e._ the +college, in Caernarvonshire, is properly called Bangor Deiniol, Bangor +Vawr yn Arllechwedd, and Bangor Vawr uwch Conwy. It owes its origin to +Deiniol, son of Dunod ap Pabo, a saint who lived in the early part of the +sixth century, and in the year 525 founded this college at Bangor, in +Caernarvonshire, over which he presided as abbot. Guy Rufus, called by +our author Guianus, was at this time bishop of this see, and died in +1190. + +{118a} Guianus, or Guy Rufus, dean of Waltham, in Essex, and consecrated +to this see, at Ambresbury, Wilts, in May 1177. + +{118b} Mona, or Anglesey. + +{118c} The spot selected by Baldwin for addressing the multitude, has in +some degree been elucidated by the anonymous author of the Supplement to +Rowland’s Mona Antiqua. He says, that “From tradition and memorials +still retained, we have reasons to suppose that they met in an open place +in the parish of Landisilio, called Cerrig y Borth. The inhabitants, by +the grateful remembrance, to perpetuate the honour of that day, called +the place where the archbishop stood, Carreg yr Archjagon, _i.e._ the +Archbishop’s Rock; and where prince Roderic stood, Maen Roderic, or the +Stone of Roderic.” This account is in part corroborated by the following +communication from Mr. Richard Llwyd of Beaumaris, who made personal +inquiries on the spot. “Cerrig y Borth, being a rough, undulating +district, could not, for that reason, have been chosen for addressing a +multitude; but adjoining it there are two eminences which command a +convenient surface for that purpose; one called Maen Rodi (the Stone or +Rock of Roderic), the property of Owen Williams, Esq.; and the other +Carreg Iago, belonging to Lord Uxbridge. This last, as now pronounced, +means the Rock of St. James; but I have no difficulty in admitting, that +Carreg yr Arch Iagon may (by the compression of common, undiscriminating +language, and the obliteration of the event from ignorant minds by the +lapse of so many centuries) be contracted into Carreg Iago. Cadair yr +archesgob is now also contracted into Cadair (chair), a seat naturally +formed in the rock, with a rude arch over it, on the road side, which is +a rough terrace over the breast of a rocky and commanding cliff, and the +nearest way from the above eminences to the insulated church of +Landisilio. This word Cadair, though in general language a chair, yet +when applied to exalted situations, means an observatory, as Cadair +Idris, etc.; but there can, in my opinion, be no doubt that this seat in +the rock is that described by the words Cadair yr Archesgob.” [Still +more probable, and certainly more flattering to Giraldus, is that it was +called “Cadair yr Arch Ddiacon” (the Archdeacon’s chair).] + +{120a} This hundred contained the comots of Mynyw, or St. David’s, and +Pencaer. + +{120b} I am indebted to Mr. Richard Llwyd for the following curious +extract from a Manuscript of the late intelligent Mr. Rowlands, +respecting this miraculous stone, called Maen Morddwyd, or the stone of +the thigh, which once existed in Llanidan parish. “Hic etiam lapis +lumbi, vulgo Maen Morddwyd, in hujus cæmiterii vallo locum sibi e longo a +retro tempore obtinuit, exindeque his nuperis annis, quo nescio papicola +vel qua inscia manu nulla ut olim retinente virtute, quæ tunc penitus +elanguit aut vetustate evaporavit, nullo sane loci dispendio, nec illi +qui eripuit emolumento, ereptus et deportatus fuit.” + +{120c} Hugh, earl of Chester. The first earl of Chester after the +Norman conquest, was Gherbod, a Fleming, who, having obtained leave from +king William to go into Flanders for the purpose of arranging some family +concerns, was taken and detained a prisoner by his enemies; upon which +the conqueror bestowed the earldom of Chester on Hugh de Abrincis or of +Avranches, “to hold as freely by the sword, as the king himself did +England by the crown.” + +{121} This church is at Llandyfrydog, a small village in Twrkelin +hundred, not far distant from Llanelian, and about three miles from the +Bay of Dulas. St. Tyvrydog, to whom it was dedicated, was one of the +sons of Arwystyl Glof, a saint who lived in the latter part of the sixth +century. + +{123a} Ynys Lenach, now known by the name of Priestholme Island, bore +also the title of Ynys Seiriol, from a saint who resided upon it in the +sixth century. It is also mentioned by Dugdale and Pennant under the +appellation of Insula Glannauch. + +{123b} Alberic de Veer, or Vere, came into England with William the +Conqueror, and as a reward for his military services, received very +extensive possessions and lands, particularly in the county of Essex. +Alberic, his eldest son, was great chamberlain of England in the reign of +king Henry I., and was killed A.D. 1140, in a popular tumult at London. +Henry de Essex married one of his daughters named Adeliza. He enjoyed, +by inheritance, the office of standard-bearer, and behaved himself so +unworthily in the military expedition which king Henry undertook against +Owen Gwynedd, prince of North Wales, in the year 1157, by throwing down +his ensign, and betaking himself to flight, that he was challenged for +this misdemeanor by Robert de Mountford, and by him vanquished in single +combat; whereby, according to the laws of his country, his life was +justly forfeited. But the king interposing his royal mercy, spared it, +but confiscated his estates, ordering him to be shorn a monk, and placed +in the abbey of Reading. There appears to be some biographical error in +the words of Giraldus—“Filia scilicet Henrici de Essexia,” for by the +genealogical accounts of the Vere and Essex families, we find that Henry +de Essex married the daughter of the second Alberic de Vere; whereas our +author seems to imply, that the mother of Alberic the second was daughter +to Henry de Essex. + +{124} “And Jacob took him rods of green poplar, and of the hazel, and of +the chesnut tree, and peeled white strakes in them, and made the white +appear which was in the rods. And he set the rods, which he had peeled, +before the flocks in the gutters in the watering troughs, when the flocks +came to drink, that they should conceive when they came to drink. And +the flocks conceived before the rods, and brought forth cattle speckled +and spotted.”—Gen. xxx. + +{125a} Owen Gwynedd, the son of Gruffydd ap Conan, died in 1169, and was +buried at Bangor. When Baldwin, during his progress, visited Bangor and +saw his tomb, he charged the bishop (Guy Ruffus) to remove the body out +of the cathedral, when he had a fit opportunity so to do, in regard that +archbishop Becket had excommunicated him heretofore, because he had +married his first cousin, the daughter of Grono ap Edwyn, and that +notwithstanding he had continued to live with her till she died. The +bishop, in obedience to the charge, made a passage from the vault through +the south wall of the church underground, and thus secretly shoved the +body into the churchyard.—_Hengwrt_. _MSS._ Cadwalader brother of Owen +Gwynedd, died in 1172. + +{125b} The Merlin here mentioned was called Ambrosius, and according to +the Cambrian Biography flourished about the middle of the fifth century. +Other authors say, that this reputed prophet and magician was the son of +a Welsh nun, daughter of a king of Demetia, and born at Caermarthen, and +that he was made king of West Wales by Vortigern, who then reigned in +Britain. + +{126} Owen Gwynedd “left behind him manie children gotten by diverse +women, which were not esteemed by their mothers and birth, but by their +prowes and valiantnesse.” By his first wife, Gladus, the daughter of +Llywarch ap Trahaern ap Caradoc, he had Orwerth Drwyndwn, that is, Edward +with the broken nose; for which defect he was deemed unfit to preside +over the principality of North Wales and was deprived of his rightful +inheritance, which was seized by his brother David, who occupied it for +the space of twenty-four years. + +{128a} The travellers pursuing their journey along the sea coast, +crossed the æstuary of the river Conway under Deganwy, a fortress of very +remote antiquity. + +{128b} At this period the Cistercian monastery of Conway was in its +infancy, for its foundation has been attributed to Llewelyn ap Iorwerth, +in the year 1185, (only three years previous to Baldwin’s visitation,) +who endowed it with very extensive possessions and singular privileges. +Like Stratflur, this abbey was the repository of the national records, +and the mausoleum of many of its princes. + +{129a} [David was the illegitimate son of Owen Gwynedd, and had +dispossessed his brother, Iorwerth Drwyndwn.] + +{129b} This ebbing spring in the province of Tegeingl, or Flintshire, +has been placed by the old annotator on Giraldus at Kilken, which +Humphrey Llwyd, in his Breviary, also mentions. + +{129c} See before, the Topography of Ireland, Distinc. ii. c. 7. + +{129d} Saint Asaph, in size, though not in revenues, may deserve the +epithet of “paupercula” attached to it by Giraldus. From its situation +near the banks of the river Elwy, it derived the name of Llanelwy, or the +church upon the Elwy. + +{129e} Leaving Llanelwy, or St. Asaph, the archbishop proceeded to the +little cell of Basinwerk, where he and his attendants passed the night. +It is situated at a short distance from Holywell, on a gentle eminence +above a valley, watered by the copious springs that issue from St. +Winefred’s well, and on the borders of a marsh, which extends towards the +coast of Cheshire. + +{129f} Coleshill is a township in Holywell parish, Flintshire, which +gives name to a hundred, and was so called from its abundance of fossil +fuel. Pennant, vol. i. p. 42. + +{130} The three military expeditions of king Henry into Wales, here +mentioned, were A.D. 1157, the first expedition into North Wales; A.D. +1162, the second expedition into South Wales; A.D. 1165, the third +expedition into North Wales. In the first, the king was obliged to +retreat with considerable loss, and the king’s standard-bearer, Henry de +Essex, was accused of having in a cowardly manner abandoned the royal +standard and led to a serious disaster. + +{131a} The lake of Penmelesmere, or Pymplwy meer, or the meer of the +five parishes adjoining the lake, is, in modern days, better known by the +name of Bala Pool. The assertion made by Giraldus, of salmon never being +found in the lake of Bala, is not founded on truth. + +{131b} Giraldus seems to have been mistaken respecting the burial-place +of the emperor Henry V., for he died May 23, A.D. 1125, at Utrecht, and +his body was conveyed to Spire for interment. + +{132} This legend, which represents king Harold as having escaped from +the battle of Hastings, and as having lived years after as a hermit on +the borders of Wales, is mentioned by other old writers, and has been +adopted as true by some modern writers. + +{133a} Some difficulty occurs in fixing the situation of the Album +Monasterium, mentioned in the text, as three churches in the county of +Shropshire bore that appellation; the first at Whitchurch, the second at +Oswestry, the third at Alberbury. The narrative of our author is so +simple, and corresponds so well with the topography of the country +through which they passed, that I think no doubt ought to be entertained +about the course of their route. From Chester they directed their way to +the White Monastery, or Whitchurch, and from thence towards Oswestry, +where they slept, and were entertained by William Fitz-Alan, after the +English mode of hospitality. + +{133b} By the Latin context it would appear that Reiner was bishop of +Oswestree: “Ab episcopo namque loci illius Reinerio multitudo fuerat ante +signata.” Reiner succeeded Adam in the bishopric of St. Asaph in the +year 1186, and died in 1220. He had a residence near Oswestry, at which +place, previous to the arrival of Baldwin, he had signed many of the +people with the cross. + +{133c} In the time of William the Conqueror, Alan, the son of Flathald, +or Flaald, obtained, by the gift of that king, the castle of Oswaldestre, +with the territory adjoining, which belonged to Meredith ap Blethyn, a +Briton. This Alan, having married the daughter and heir to Warine, +sheriff of Shropshire, had in her right the barony of the same Warine. +To him succeeded William, his son and heir. He married Isabel de Say, +daughter and heir to Helias de Say, niece to Robert earl of Gloucester, +lady of Clun, and left issue by her, William, his son and successor, who, +in the 19th Henry II., or before, departed this life, leaving William +Fitz-Alan his son and heir, who is mentioned in the text. + +{134a} Robert de Belesme, earl of Shrewsbury, was son of Roger de +Montgomery, who led the centre division of the army in that memorable +battle which secured to William the conquest of England, and for his +services was advanced to the earldoms of Arundel and Shrewsbury. + +{134b} This expedition into Wales took place A.D. 1165, and has been +already spoken of. + +{136} The princes mentioned by Giraldus as most distinguished in North +and South Wales, and most celebrated in his time, were, 1. Owen, son of +Gruffydd, in North Wales; 2. Meredyth, son of Gruffydd, in South Wales; +3. Owen de Cyfeilioc, in Powys; 4. Cadwalader, son of Gruffydd, in North +Wales; 5. Gruffydd of Maelor in Powys; 6. Rhys, son of Gruffydd, in South +Wales; 7. David, son of Owen, in North Wales; 8. Howel, son of Iorwerth, +in South Wales. + +1. Owen Gwynedd, son of Gruffydd ap Conan, died in 1169, having governed +his country well and worthily for the space of thirty-two years. He was +fortunate and victorious in all his affairs, and never took any +enterprise in hand but he achieved it. 2. Meredyth ap Gruffydd ap Rhys, +lord of Caerdigan and Stratywy, died in 1153, at the early age of +twenty-five; a worthy knight, fortunate in battle, just and liberal to +all men. 3. Owen Cyfeilioc was the son of Gruffydd Meredyth ap Meredyth +ap Blethyn, who was created lord of Powys by Henry I., and died about the +year 1197, leaving his principality to his son Gwenwynwyn, from whom that +part of Powys was called Powys Gwenwynwyn, to distinguish it from Powys +Vadoc, the possession of the lords of Bromfield. The poems ascribed to +him possess great spirit, and prove that he was, as Giraldus terms him, +“linguæ dicacis,” in its best sense. 4. Cadwalader, son of Gruffydd ap +Conan, prince of North Wales, died in 1175. Gruffydd of Maelor was son +of Madoc ap Meredyth ap Blethyn, prince of Powys, who died at Winchester +in 1160. “This man was ever the king of England’s friend, and was one +that feared God, and relieved the poor: his body was conveyed honourably +to Powys, and buried at Myvod.” His son Gruffydd succeeded him in the +lordship of Bromfield, and died about the year 1190. 6. Rhys ap +Gruffydd, or the lord Rhys, was son of Gruffydd ap Rhys ap Tewdwr, who +died in 1137. The ancient writers have been very profuse in their +praises of this celebrated Prince. 7. David, son of Owen Gwynedd, who, +on the death if his father, forcibly seized the principality of North +Wales, slaying his brother Howel in battle, and setting aside the claims +of the lawful inheritor of the throne, Iorwerth Trwyndwn, whose son, +Llewelyn ap Iorwerth, in 1194, recovered his inheritance. 8. Howel, son +of Iorwerth of Caerleon, appears to have been distinguished chiefly by +his ferocity. + +{137} Malpas in Cheshire. + +{138} It appears that a small college of prebendaries, or secular +canons, resided at Bromfield in the reign of king Henry I.; Osbert, the +prior, being recorded as a witness to a deed made before the year 1148. +In 1155, they became Benedictines, and surrendered church and lands to +the abbey of St. Peter’s at Gloucester, whereupon a prior and monks were +placed there, and continued till the dissolution. An ancient gateway and +some remains of the priory still testify the existence of this religious +house, the local situation of which, near the confluence of the rivers +Oney and Teme, has been accurately described by Leland. + +{139} Baldwin was born at Exeter, in Devonshire, of a low family, but +being endowed by nature with good abilities, applied them to an early +cultivation of sacred and profane literature. His good conduct procured +him the friendship of Bartholomew bishop of Exeter, who promoted him to +the archdeaconry of that see; resigning this preferment, he assumed the +cowl, and in a few years became abbot of the Cistercian monastery at +Ford. In the year 1180, he was advanced to the bishopric of Worcester, +and in 1184, translated to the archiepiscopal see of Canterbury. In the +year 1188, he made his progress through Wales, preaching with fervour the +service of the Cross; to which holy cause he fell a sacrifice in the year +1190, having religiously, honourably, and charitably ended his days in +the Holy Land. + +{140} Giraldus here alludes to the dignity of archdeacon, which Baldwin +had obtained in the church of Exeter. + + + + +***END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE ITINERARY OF ARCHIBISHOP BALDWIN +THROUGH WALES*** + + +******* This file should be named 1148-0.txt or 1148-0.zip ******* + + +This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: +http://www.gutenberg.org/dirs/1/1/4/1148 + + +Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions will +be renamed. + +Creating the works from print editions not protected by U.S. copyright +law means that no one owns a United States copyright in these works, +so the Foundation (and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United +States without permission and without paying copyright +royalties. Special rules, set forth in the General Terms of Use part +of this license, apply to copying and distributing Project +Gutenberg-tm electronic works to protect the PROJECT GUTENBERG-tm +concept and trademark. Project Gutenberg is a registered trademark, +and may not be used if you charge for the eBooks, unless you receive +specific permission. If you do not charge anything for copies of this +eBook, complying with the rules is very easy. You may use this eBook +for nearly any purpose such as creation of derivative works, reports, +performances and research. They may be modified and printed and given +away--you may do practically ANYTHING in the United States with eBooks +not protected by U.S. copyright law. Redistribution is subject to the +trademark license, especially commercial redistribution. + +START: FULL LICENSE + +THE FULL PROJECT GUTENBERG LICENSE +PLEASE READ THIS BEFORE YOU DISTRIBUTE OR USE THIS WORK + +To protect the Project Gutenberg-tm mission of promoting the free +distribution of electronic works, by using or distributing this work +(or any other work associated in any way with the phrase "Project +Gutenberg"), you agree to comply with all the terms of the Full +Project Gutenberg-tm License available with this file or online at +www.gutenberg.org/license. + +Section 1. General Terms of Use and Redistributing Project +Gutenberg-tm electronic works + +1.A. By reading or using any part of this Project Gutenberg-tm +electronic work, you indicate that you have read, understand, agree to +and accept all the terms of this license and intellectual property +(trademark/copyright) agreement. If you do not agree to abide by all +the terms of this agreement, you must cease using and return or +destroy all copies of Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works in your +possession. If you paid a fee for obtaining a copy of or access to a +Project Gutenberg-tm electronic work and you do not agree to be bound +by the terms of this agreement, you may obtain a refund from the +person or entity to whom you paid the fee as set forth in paragraph +1.E.8. + +1.B. "Project Gutenberg" is a registered trademark. It may only be +used on or associated in any way with an electronic work by people who +agree to be bound by the terms of this agreement. There are a few +things that you can do with most Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works +even without complying with the full terms of this agreement. See +paragraph 1.C below. There are a lot of things you can do with Project +Gutenberg-tm electronic works if you follow the terms of this +agreement and help preserve free future access to Project Gutenberg-tm +electronic works. See paragraph 1.E below. + +1.C. The Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation ("the +Foundation" or PGLAF), owns a compilation copyright in the collection +of Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works. Nearly all the individual +works in the collection are in the public domain in the United +States. If an individual work is unprotected by copyright law in the +United States and you are located in the United States, we do not +claim a right to prevent you from copying, distributing, performing, +displaying or creating derivative works based on the work as long as +all references to Project Gutenberg are removed. Of course, we hope +that you will support the Project Gutenberg-tm mission of promoting +free access to electronic works by freely sharing Project Gutenberg-tm +works in compliance with the terms of this agreement for keeping the +Project Gutenberg-tm name associated with the work. You can easily +comply with the terms of this agreement by keeping this work in the +same format with its attached full Project Gutenberg-tm License when +you share it without charge with others. + +1.D. The copyright laws of the place where you are located also govern +what you can do with this work. Copyright laws in most countries are +in a constant state of change. If you are outside the United States, +check the laws of your country in addition to the terms of this +agreement before downloading, copying, displaying, performing, +distributing or creating derivative works based on this work or any +other Project Gutenberg-tm work. The Foundation makes no +representations concerning the copyright status of any work in any +country outside the United States. + +1.E. Unless you have removed all references to Project Gutenberg: + +1.E.1. The following sentence, with active links to, or other +immediate access to, the full Project Gutenberg-tm License must appear +prominently whenever any copy of a Project Gutenberg-tm work (any work +on which the phrase "Project Gutenberg" appears, or with which the +phrase "Project Gutenberg" is associated) is accessed, displayed, +performed, viewed, copied or distributed: + + This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere in the United States and + most other parts of the world at no cost and with almost no + restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it + under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included with this + eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org. If you are not located in the + United States, you'll have to check the laws of the country where you + are located before using this ebook. + +1.E.2. If an individual Project Gutenberg-tm electronic work is +derived from texts not protected by U.S. copyright law (does not +contain a notice indicating that it is posted with permission of the +copyright holder), the work can be copied and distributed to anyone in +the United States without paying any fees or charges. If you are +redistributing or providing access to a work with the phrase "Project +Gutenberg" associated with or appearing on the work, you must comply +either with the requirements of paragraphs 1.E.1 through 1.E.7 or +obtain permission for the use of the work and the Project Gutenberg-tm +trademark as set forth in paragraphs 1.E.8 or 1.E.9. + +1.E.3. If an individual Project Gutenberg-tm electronic work is posted +with the permission of the copyright holder, your use and distribution +must comply with both paragraphs 1.E.1 through 1.E.7 and any +additional terms imposed by the copyright holder. Additional terms +will be linked to the Project Gutenberg-tm License for all works +posted with the permission of the copyright holder found at the +beginning of this work. + +1.E.4. Do not unlink or detach or remove the full Project Gutenberg-tm +License terms from this work, or any files containing a part of this +work or any other work associated with Project Gutenberg-tm. + +1.E.5. Do not copy, display, perform, distribute or redistribute this +electronic work, or any part of this electronic work, without +prominently displaying the sentence set forth in paragraph 1.E.1 with +active links or immediate access to the full terms of the Project +Gutenberg-tm License. + +1.E.6. You may convert to and distribute this work in any binary, +compressed, marked up, nonproprietary or proprietary form, including +any word processing or hypertext form. However, if you provide access +to or distribute copies of a Project Gutenberg-tm work in a format +other than "Plain Vanilla ASCII" or other format used in the official +version posted on the official Project Gutenberg-tm web site +(www.gutenberg.org), you must, at no additional cost, fee or expense +to the user, provide a copy, a means of exporting a copy, or a means +of obtaining a copy upon request, of the work in its original "Plain +Vanilla ASCII" or other form. Any alternate format must include the +full Project Gutenberg-tm License as specified in paragraph 1.E.1. + +1.E.7. Do not charge a fee for access to, viewing, displaying, +performing, copying or distributing any Project Gutenberg-tm works +unless you comply with paragraph 1.E.8 or 1.E.9. + +1.E.8. You may charge a reasonable fee for copies of or providing +access to or distributing Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works +provided that + +* You pay a royalty fee of 20% of the gross profits you derive from + the use of Project Gutenberg-tm works calculated using the method + you already use to calculate your applicable taxes. The fee is owed + to the owner of the Project Gutenberg-tm trademark, but he has + agreed to donate royalties under this paragraph to the Project + Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation. Royalty payments must be paid + within 60 days following each date on which you prepare (or are + legally required to prepare) your periodic tax returns. Royalty + payments should be clearly marked as such and sent to the Project + Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation at the address specified in + Section 4, "Information about donations to the Project Gutenberg + Literary Archive Foundation." + +* You provide a full refund of any money paid by a user who notifies + you in writing (or by e-mail) within 30 days of receipt that s/he + does not agree to the terms of the full Project Gutenberg-tm + License. You must require such a user to return or destroy all + copies of the works possessed in a physical medium and discontinue + all use of and all access to other copies of Project Gutenberg-tm + works. + +* You provide, in accordance with paragraph 1.F.3, a full refund of + any money paid for a work or a replacement copy, if a defect in the + electronic work is discovered and reported to you within 90 days of + receipt of the work. + +* You comply with all other terms of this agreement for free + distribution of Project Gutenberg-tm works. + +1.E.9. If you wish to charge a fee or distribute a Project +Gutenberg-tm electronic work or group of works on different terms than +are set forth in this agreement, you must obtain permission in writing +from both the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation and The +Project Gutenberg Trademark LLC, the owner of the Project Gutenberg-tm +trademark. Contact the Foundation as set forth in Section 3 below. + +1.F. + +1.F.1. Project Gutenberg volunteers and employees expend considerable +effort to identify, do copyright research on, transcribe and proofread +works not protected by U.S. copyright law in creating the Project +Gutenberg-tm collection. Despite these efforts, Project Gutenberg-tm +electronic works, and the medium on which they may be stored, may +contain "Defects," such as, but not limited to, incomplete, inaccurate +or corrupt data, transcription errors, a copyright or other +intellectual property infringement, a defective or damaged disk or +other medium, a computer virus, or computer codes that damage or +cannot be read by your equipment. + +1.F.2. LIMITED WARRANTY, DISCLAIMER OF DAMAGES - Except for the "Right +of Replacement or Refund" described in paragraph 1.F.3, the Project +Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation, the owner of the Project +Gutenberg-tm trademark, and any other party distributing a Project +Gutenberg-tm electronic work under this agreement, disclaim all +liability to you for damages, costs and expenses, including legal +fees. YOU AGREE THAT YOU HAVE NO REMEDIES FOR NEGLIGENCE, STRICT +LIABILITY, BREACH OF WARRANTY OR BREACH OF CONTRACT EXCEPT THOSE +PROVIDED IN PARAGRAPH 1.F.3. YOU AGREE THAT THE FOUNDATION, THE +TRADEMARK OWNER, AND ANY DISTRIBUTOR UNDER THIS AGREEMENT WILL NOT BE +LIABLE TO YOU FOR ACTUAL, DIRECT, INDIRECT, CONSEQUENTIAL, PUNITIVE OR +INCIDENTAL DAMAGES EVEN IF YOU GIVE NOTICE OF THE POSSIBILITY OF SUCH +DAMAGE. + +1.F.3. LIMITED RIGHT OF REPLACEMENT OR REFUND - If you discover a +defect in this electronic work within 90 days of receiving it, you can +receive a refund of the money (if any) you paid for it by sending a +written explanation to the person you received the work from. If you +received the work on a physical medium, you must return the medium +with your written explanation. The person or entity that provided you +with the defective work may elect to provide a replacement copy in +lieu of a refund. If you received the work electronically, the person +or entity providing it to you may choose to give you a second +opportunity to receive the work electronically in lieu of a refund. If +the second copy is also defective, you may demand a refund in writing +without further opportunities to fix the problem. + +1.F.4. Except for the limited right of replacement or refund set forth +in paragraph 1.F.3, this work is provided to you 'AS-IS', WITH NO +OTHER WARRANTIES OF ANY KIND, EXPRESS OR IMPLIED, INCLUDING BUT NOT +LIMITED TO WARRANTIES OF MERCHANTABILITY OR FITNESS FOR ANY PURPOSE. + +1.F.5. Some states do not allow disclaimers of certain implied +warranties or the exclusion or limitation of certain types of +damages. If any disclaimer or limitation set forth in this agreement +violates the law of the state applicable to this agreement, the +agreement shall be interpreted to make the maximum disclaimer or +limitation permitted by the applicable state law. The invalidity or +unenforceability of any provision of this agreement shall not void the +remaining provisions. + +1.F.6. INDEMNITY - You agree to indemnify and hold the Foundation, the +trademark owner, any agent or employee of the Foundation, anyone +providing copies of Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works in +accordance with this agreement, and any volunteers associated with the +production, promotion and distribution of Project Gutenberg-tm +electronic works, harmless from all liability, costs and expenses, +including legal fees, that arise directly or indirectly from any of +the following which you do or cause to occur: (a) distribution of this +or any Project Gutenberg-tm work, (b) alteration, modification, or +additions or deletions to any Project Gutenberg-tm work, and (c) any +Defect you cause. + +Section 2. Information about the Mission of Project Gutenberg-tm + +Project Gutenberg-tm is synonymous with the free distribution of +electronic works in formats readable by the widest variety of +computers including obsolete, old, middle-aged and new computers. It +exists because of the efforts of hundreds of volunteers and donations +from people in all walks of life. + +Volunteers and financial support to provide volunteers with the +assistance they need are critical to reaching Project Gutenberg-tm's +goals and ensuring that the Project Gutenberg-tm collection will +remain freely available for generations to come. In 2001, the Project +Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation was created to provide a secure +and permanent future for Project Gutenberg-tm and future +generations. To learn more about the Project Gutenberg Literary +Archive Foundation and how your efforts and donations can help, see +Sections 3 and 4 and the Foundation information page at +www.gutenberg.org + +Section 3. Information about the Project Gutenberg Literary +Archive Foundation + +The Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation is a non profit +501(c)(3) educational corporation organized under the laws of the +state of Mississippi and granted tax exempt status by the Internal +Revenue Service. The Foundation's EIN or federal tax identification +number is 64-6221541. Contributions to the Project Gutenberg Literary +Archive Foundation are tax deductible to the full extent permitted by +U.S. federal laws and your state's laws. + +The Foundation's principal office is in Fairbanks, Alaska, with the +mailing address: PO Box 750175, Fairbanks, AK 99775, but its +volunteers and employees are scattered throughout numerous +locations. Its business office is located at 809 North 1500 West, Salt +Lake City, UT 84116, (801) 596-1887. Email contact links and up to +date contact information can be found at the Foundation's web site and +official page at www.gutenberg.org/contact + +For additional contact information: + + Dr. Gregory B. Newby + Chief Executive and Director + gbnewby@pglaf.org + +Section 4. Information about Donations to the Project Gutenberg +Literary Archive Foundation + +Project Gutenberg-tm depends upon and cannot survive without wide +spread public support and donations to carry out its mission of +increasing the number of public domain and licensed works that can be +freely distributed in machine readable form accessible by the widest +array of equipment including outdated equipment. Many small donations +($1 to $5,000) are particularly important to maintaining tax exempt +status with the IRS. + +The Foundation is committed to complying with the laws regulating +charities and charitable donations in all 50 states of the United +States. Compliance requirements are not uniform and it takes a +considerable effort, much paperwork and many fees to meet and keep up +with these requirements. We do not solicit donations in locations +where we have not received written confirmation of compliance. To SEND +DONATIONS or determine the status of compliance for any particular +state visit www.gutenberg.org/donate + +While we cannot and do not solicit contributions from states where we +have not met the solicitation requirements, we know of no prohibition +against accepting unsolicited donations from donors in such states who +approach us with offers to donate. + +International donations are gratefully accepted, but we cannot make +any statements concerning tax treatment of donations received from +outside the United States. U.S. laws alone swamp our small staff. + +Please check the Project Gutenberg Web pages for current donation +methods and addresses. Donations are accepted in a number of other +ways including checks, online payments and credit card donations. To +donate, please visit: www.gutenberg.org/donate + +Section 5. General Information About Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works. + +Professor Michael S. Hart was the originator of the Project +Gutenberg-tm concept of a library of electronic works that could be +freely shared with anyone. For forty years, he produced and +distributed Project Gutenberg-tm eBooks with only a loose network of +volunteer support. + +Project Gutenberg-tm eBooks are often created from several printed +editions, all of which are confirmed as not protected by copyright in +the U.S. unless a copyright notice is included. Thus, we do not +necessarily keep eBooks in compliance with any particular paper +edition. + +Most people start at our Web site which has the main PG search +facility: www.gutenberg.org + +This Web site includes information about Project Gutenberg-tm, +including how to make donations to the Project Gutenberg Literary +Archive Foundation, how to help produce our new eBooks, and how to +subscribe to our email newsletter to hear about new eBooks. + diff --git a/1148-0.zip b/1148-0.zip Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..0901063 --- /dev/null +++ b/1148-0.zip diff --git a/1148-h.zip b/1148-h.zip Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..8279c27 --- /dev/null +++ b/1148-h.zip diff --git a/1148-h/1148-h.htm b/1148-h/1148-h.htm new file mode 100644 index 0000000..8ef6783 --- /dev/null +++ b/1148-h/1148-h.htm @@ -0,0 +1,7007 @@ +<!DOCTYPE html + PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD XHTML 1.0 Strict//EN" + "http://www.w3.org/TR/xhtml1/DTD/xhtml1-strict.dtd"> +<html xmlns="http://www.w3.org/1999/xhtml" xml:lang="en" lang="en"> +<head> +<meta http-equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html; charset=US-ASCII" /> +<title>The Itinerary of Archbishop Baldwin through Wales, by Giraldus Cambrensis</title> + <style type="text/css"> +/*<![CDATA[ XML blockout */ +<!-- + P { margin-top: .75em; + margin-bottom: .75em; + } + P.gutsumm { margin-left: 5%;} + P.poetry {margin-left: 3%; } + .GutSmall { font-size: 0.7em; } + H1, H2 { + text-align: center; + margin-top: 2em; + margin-bottom: 2em; + } + H3, H4, H5 { + text-align: center; + margin-top: 1em; + margin-bottom: 1em; + } + BODY{margin-left: 10%; + margin-right: 10%; + } + table { border-collapse: collapse; } +table {margin-left:auto; margin-right:auto;} + td { vertical-align: top; border: 1px solid black;} + td p { margin: 0.2em; } + .blkquot {margin-left: 4em; margin-right: 4em;} /* block indent */ + + .smcap {font-variant: small-caps;} + + .pagenum {position: absolute; + left: 92%; + font-size: small; + text-align: right; + font-weight: normal; + color: gray; + } + img { border: none; } + img.dc { float: left; width: 50px; height: 50px; } + p.gutindent { margin-left: 2em; } + div.gapspace { height: 0.8em; } + div.gapline { height: 0.8em; width: 100%; border-top: 1px solid;} + div.gapmediumline { height: 0.3em; width: 40%; margin-left:30%; + border-top: 1px solid; } + div.gapmediumdoubleline { height: 0.3em; width: 40%; margin-left:30%; + border-top: 1px solid; border-bottom: 1px solid;} + div.gapshortdoubleline { height: 0.3em; width: 20%; + margin-left: 40%; border-top: 1px solid; + border-bottom: 1px solid; } + div.gapdoubleline { height: 0.3em; width: 50%; + margin-left: 25%; border-top: 1px solid; + border-bottom: 1px solid;} + div.gapshortline { height: 0.3em; width: 20%; margin-left:40%; + border-top: 1px solid; } + .citation {vertical-align: super; + font-size: .8em; + text-decoration: none;} + img.floatleft { float: left; + margin-right: 1em; + margin-top: 0.5em; margin-bottom: 0.5em; } + img.floatright { float: right; + margin-left: 1em; margin-top: 0.5em; + margin-bottom: 0.5em; } + img.clearcenter {display: block; + margin-left: auto; + margin-right: auto; margin-top: 0.5em; + margin-bottom: 0.5em} + --> + /* XML end ]]>*/ + </style> +</head> +<body> +<pre> + +The Project Gutenberg eBook, The Itinerary of Archbishop Baldwin through +Wales, by Giraldus Cambrensis + + +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere in the United States and most +other parts of the world at no cost and with almost no restrictions +whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms of +the Project Gutenberg License included with this eBook or online at +www.gutenberg.org. If you are not located in the United States, you'll have +to check the laws of the country where you are located before using this ebook. + + + + +Title: The Itinerary of Archbishop Baldwin through Wales + + +Author: Giraldus Cambrensis + + + +Release Date: February 9, 2015 [eBook #1148] +[This file was first posted on December 14, 1997] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ISO-646-US (US-ASCII) + + +***START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE ITINERARY OF ARCHIBISHOP +BALDWIN THROUGH WALES*** +</pre> +<p>Transcribed from the 1912 J. M. Dent and Sons edition by David +Price, email ccx074@pglaf.org</p> +<h1><span class="smcap">The Itinerary of Archbishop Baldwin +through Wales</span><br /> +by<br /> +Giraldus Cambrensis</h1> +<h2><a name="pagevii"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +vii</span>INTRODUCTION</h2> +<p><span class="smcap">Gerald the Welshman</span>—Giraldus +Cambrensis—was born, probably in 1147, at Manorbier Castle +in the county of Pembroke. His father was a Norman noble, +William de Barri, who took his name from the little island of +Barry off the coast of Glamorgan. His mother, Angharad, was +the daughter of Gerald de Windsor <a name="citation0a"></a><a +href="#footnote0a" class="citation">[0a]</a> by his wife, the +famous Princess Nesta, the “Helen of Wales,” and the +daughter of Rhys ap Tewdwr Mawr, the last independent Prince of +South Wales.</p> +<p>Gerald was therefore born to romance and adventure. He +was reared in the traditions of the House of Dinevor. He +heard the brilliant and pitiful stories of Rhys ap Tewdwr, who, +after having lost and won South Wales, died on the stricken field +fighting against the Normans, an old man of over fourscore years; +and of his gallant son, Prince Rhys, who, after wrenching his +patrimony from the invaders, died of a broken heart a few months +after his wife, the Princess Gwenllian, had fallen in a skirmish +at Kidwelly. No doubt he heard, though he makes but sparing +allusion to them, of the loves and adventures of his grandmother, +the Princess Nesta, the daughter and sister of a prince, the wife +of an adventurer, the concubine of a king, and the paramour of +every daring lover—a Welshwoman whose passions embroiled +all Wales, and England too, in war, and the mother of +heroes—Fitz-Geralds, Fitz-Stephens, and Fitz-Henries, and +others—who, regardless of their mother’s eccentricity +in the choice of their fathers, <a name="pageviii"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. viii</span>united like brothers in the most +adventurous undertaking of that age, the Conquest of Ireland.</p> +<p>Though his mother was half Saxon and his father probably fully +Norman, Gerald, with a true instinct, described himself as a +“Welshman.” His frank vanity, so naïve as +to be void of offence, his easy acceptance of everything which +Providence had bestowed on him, his incorrigible belief that all +the world took as much interest in himself and all that appealed +to him as he did himself, the readiness with which he adapted +himself to all sorts of men and of circumstances, his credulity +in matters of faith and his shrewd common sense in things of the +world, his wit and lively fancy, his eloquence of tongue and pen, +his acute rather than accurate observation, his scholarship +elegant rather than profound, are all characteristic of a certain +lovable type of South Walian. He was not blind to the +defects of his countrymen any more than to others of his +contemporaries, but the Welsh he chastised as one who loved +them. His praise followed ever close upon the heels of his +criticism. There was none of the rancour in his references +to Wales which defaces his account of contemporary Ireland. +He was acquainted with Welsh, though he does not seem to have +preached it, and another archdeacon acted as the interpreter of +Archbishop Baldwin’s Crusade sermon in Anglesea. But +he could appreciate the charm of the <i>Cynghanedd</i>, the +alliterative assonance which is still the most distinctive +feature of Welsh poetry. He cannot conceal his sympathy +with the imperishable determination of his countrymen to keep +alive the language which is their <i>differentia</i> among the +nations of the world. It is manifest in the story which he +relates at the end of his “Description of +Wales.” Henry II. asked an old Welshman of Pencader +in Carmarthenshire if the Welsh could resist his might. +“This nation, O King,” was the reply, “may +often be weakened and in great part destroyed by the power of +yourself and of <a name="pageix"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +ix</span>others, but many a time, as it deserves, it will rise +triumphant. But never will it be destroyed by the wrath of +man, unless the wrath of God be added. Nor do I think that +any other nation than this of Wales, or any other tongue, +whatever may hereafter come to pass, shall on the day of the +great reckoning before the Most High Judge, answer for this +corner of the earth.” Prone to discuss with his +“Britannic frankness” the faults of his countrymen, +he cannot bear that any one else should do so. In the +“Description of Wales” he breaks off in the middle of +a most unflattering passage concerning the character of the Welsh +people to lecture Gildas for having abused his own +countrymen. In the preface to his “Instruction of +Princes,” he makes a bitter reference to the prejudice of +the English Court against everything Welsh—“Can any +good thing come from Wales?” His fierce Welshmanship +is perhaps responsible for the unsympathetic treatment which he +has usually received at the hands of English historians. +Even to one of the writers of Dr. Traill’s “Social +England,” Gerald was little more than “a strong and +passionate Welshman.”</p> +<p>Sometimes it was his pleasure to pose as a citizen of the +world. He loved Paris, the centre of learning, where he +studied as a youth, and where he lectured in his early +manhood. He paid four long visits to Rome. He was +Court chaplain to Henry II. He accompanied the king on his +expeditions to France, and Prince John to Ireland. He +retired, when old age grew upon him, to the scholarly seclusion +of Lincoln, far from his native land. He was the friend and +companion of princes and kings, of scholars and prelates +everywhere in England, in France, and in Italy. And yet +there was no place in the world so dear to him as +Manorbier. Who can read his vivid description of the old +castle by the sea—its ramparts blown upon by the winds that +swept over the Irish Sea, its fishponds, its garden, and its +lofty nut trees—without feeling that here, after all, <a +name="pagex"></a><span class="pagenum">p. x</span>was the home of +Gerald de Barri? “As Demetia,” he said in his +“Itinerary,” “with its seven cantreds is the +fairest of all the lands of Wales, as Pembroke is the fairest +part of Demetia, and this spot the fairest of Pembroke, it +follows that Manorbier is the sweetest spot in +Wales.” He has left us a charming account of his +boyhood, playing with his brothers on the sands, they building +castles and he cathedrals, he earning the title of “boy +bishop” by preaching while they engaged in boyish +sport. On his last recorded visit to Wales, a broken man, +hunted like a criminal by the king, and deserted by the ingrate +canons of St. David’s, he retired for a brief respite from +strife to the sweet peace of Manorbier. It is not known +where he died, but it is permissible to hope that he breathed his +last in the old home which he never forgot or ceased to love.</p> +<p>He mentions that the Welsh loved high descent and carried +their pedigree about with them. In this respect also Gerald +was Welsh to the core. He is never more pleased than when +he alludes to his relationship with the Princes of Wales, or the +Geraldines, or Cadwallon ap Madoc of Powis. He hints, not +obscurely, that the real reason why he was passed over for the +Bishopric of St. David’s in 1186 was that Henry II. feared +his <i>natio et cognatio</i>, his nation and his family. He +becomes almost dithyrambic in extolling the deeds of his kinsmen +in Ireland. “Who are they who penetrated into the +fastnesses of the enemy? The Geraldines. Who are they +who hold the country in submission? The Geraldines. +Who are they whom the foemen dread? The Geraldines. +Who are they whom envy would disparage? The +Geraldines. Yet fight on, my gallant kinsmen,</p> +<blockquote><p>“Felices facti si quid mea carmina +possuit.”</p> +</blockquote> +<p>Gerald was satisfied, not only with his birthplace and +lineage, but with everything that was his. He makes +complacent references to his good looks, which he had <a +name="pagexi"></a><span class="pagenum">p. xi</span>inherited +from Princess Nesta. “Is it possible so fair a youth +can die?” asked Bishop, afterwards Archbishop, Baldwin, +when he saw him in his student days. <a name="citation0b"></a><a +href="#footnote0b" class="citation">[0b]</a> Even in his +letters to Pope Innocent he could not refrain from repeating a +compliment paid to him on his good looks by Matilda of St. +Valery, the wife of his neighbour at Brecon, William de +Braose. He praises his own unparalleled generosity in +entertaining the poor, the doctors, and the townsfolk of Oxford +to banquets on three successive days when he read his +“Topography of Ireland” before that university. +As for his learning he records that when his tutors at Paris +wished to point out a model scholar they mentioned Giraldus +Cambrensis. He is confident that though his works, being +all written in Latin, have not attained any great contemporary +popularity, they will make his name and fame secure for +ever. The most precious gift he could give to Pope Innocent +III., when he was anxious to win his favour, was six volumes of +his own works; and when good old Archbishop Baldwin came to +preach the Crusade in Wales, Gerald could think of no better +present to help beguile the tedium of the journey than his own +“Topography of Ireland.” He is equally pleased +with his own eloquence. When the archbishop had preached, +with no effect, for an hour, and exclaimed what a hardhearted +people it was, Gerald moved them almost instantly to tears. +He records also that John Spang, the Lord Rhys’s fool, said +to his master at Cardigan, after Gerald had been preaching the +Crusade, “You owe a great debt, O Rhys, to your kinsman, +the archdeacon, who has taken a hundred or so of your men to +serve the Lord; for if he had only spoken in Welsh, you would not +have had a soul left.” His works are full of +appreciations of Gerald’s reforming zeal, his +administrative energy, his unostentatious and scholarly life.</p> +<p>Professor Freeman in his “Norman Conquest” +described <a name="pagexii"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +xii</span>Gerald as “the father of comparative +philology,” and in the preface to his edition of the last +volume of Gerald’s works in the Rolls Series, he calls him +“one of the most learned men of a learned age,” +“the universal scholar.” His range of subjects +is indeed marvellous even for an age when to be a +“universal scholar” was not so hopeless of attainment +as it has since become. Professor Brewer, his earliest +editor in the Rolls Series, is struck by the same +characteristic. “Geography, history, ethics, +divinity, canon law, biography, natural history, epistolary +correspondence, and poetry employed his pen by turns, and in all +these departments of literature he has left memorials of his +ability.” Without being Ciceronian, his Latin was far +better than that of his contemporaries. He was steeped in +the classics, and he had, as Professor Freeman remarks, +“mastered more languages than most men of his time, and had +looked at them with an approach to a scientific view which still +fewer men of his time shared with him.” He quotes +Welsh, English, Irish, French, German, Hebrew, Latin, and Greek, +and with four or five of these languages at least he had an +intimate, scholarly acquaintance. His judgment of men and +things may not always have been sound, but he was a shrewd +observer of contemporary events. “The cleverest +critic of the life of his time” is the verdict of Mr. +Reginald Poole. <a name="citation0c"></a><a href="#footnote0c" +class="citation">[0c]</a> He changed his opinions often: he +was never ashamed of being inconsistent. In early life he +was, perhaps naturally, an admirer of the Angevin dynasty; he +lived to draw the most terrible picture extant of their lives and +characters. During his lifetime he never ceased to inveigh +against Archbishop Hubert Walter; after his death he repented and +recanted. His invective was sometimes coarse, and his abuse +was always virulent. He was not over-scrupulous in his +methods of controversy; but no one can rise from a reading of his +works without <a name="pagexiii"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +xiii</span>a feeling of liking for the vivacious, cultured, +impulsive, humorous, irrepressible Welshman. Certainly no +Welshman can regard the man who wrote so lovingly of his native +land, and who championed her cause so valiantly, except with real +gratitude and affection.</p> +<p>But though it is as a writer of books that Gerald has become +famous, he was a man of action, who would have left, had Fate +been kinder, an enduring mark on the history of his own time, and +would certainly have changed the whole current of Welsh religious +life. As a descendant of the Welsh princes, he took himself +seriously as a Welsh patriot. Destined almost from his +cradle, both by the bent of his mind and the inclination of his +father, to don “the habit of religion,” he could not +join Prince Rhys or Prince Llewelyn in their struggle for the +political independence of Wales. His ambition was to become +Bishop of St. David’s, and then to restore the Welsh Church +to her old position of independence of the metropolitan authority +of Canterbury. He detested the practice of promoting +Normans to Welsh sees, and of excluding Welshmen from high +positions in their own country. “Because I am a +Welshman, am I to be debarred from all preferment in +Wales?” he indignantly writes to the Pope. +Circumstances at first seemed to favour his ambition. His +uncle, David Fitz-Gerald, sat in the seat of St. +David’s. When the young scholar returned from Paris +in 1172, he found the path of promotion easy. After the +manner of that age—which Gerald lived to denounce—he +soon became a pluralist. He held the livings of Llanwnda, +Tenby, and Angle, and afterwards the prebend of Mathry, in +Pembrokeshire, and the living of Chesterton in Oxfordshire. +He was also prebendary of Hereford, canon of St. David’s, +and in 1175, when only twenty-eight years of age, he became +Archdeacon of Brecon. In the following year Bishop David +died, and Gerald, together with the other archdeacons of the +diocese, was nominated by the chapter for the king’s +choice. <a name="pagexiv"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +xiv</span>But the chapter had been premature, urged, no doubt, by +the impetuous young Archdeacon of Brecon. They had not +waited for the king’s consent to the nomination. The +king saw that his settled policy in Wales would be overturned if +Gerald became Bishop of St. David’s. Gerald’s +cousin, the Lord Rhys, had been appointed the king’s +justiciar in South Wales. The power of the Lord Marches was +to be kept in check by a quasi-alliance between the Welsh prince +and his over-lord. The election of Gerald to the greatest +see in Wales would upset the balance of power. David +Fitz-Gerald, good easy man (<i>vir suâ sorte contentus</i> +is Gerald’s description of him), the king could tolerate, +but he could not contemplate without uneasiness the combination +of spiritual and political power in South Wales in the hands of +two able, ambitious, and energetic kinsmen, such as he knew +Gerald and the Lord Rhys to be. Gerald had made no secret +of his admiration for the martyred St. Thomas à +Becket. He fashioned himself upon him as Becket did on +Anselm. The part which Becket played in England he would +like to play in Wales. But the sovereign who had destroyed +Becket was not to be frightened by the canons of St. +David’s and the Archdeacon of Brecon. He summoned the +chapter to Westminster, and compelled them in his presence to +elect Peter de Leia, the Prior of Wenlock, who erected for +himself an imperishable monument in the noble cathedral which +looks as if it had sprung up from the rocks which guard the city +of Dewi Sant from the inrush of the western sea.</p> +<p>It is needless to recount the many activities in which Gerald +engaged during the next twenty-two years. They have been +recounted with humorous and affectionate appreciation by Dr. +Henry Owen in his monograph on “Gerald the Welshman,” +a little masterpiece of biography which deserves to be better +known. <a name="citation0d"></a><a href="#footnote0d" +class="citation">[0d]</a> In <a name="pagexv"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. xv</span>1183 Gerald was employed by the +astute king to settle terms between him and the rebellious Lord +Rhys. Nominally as a reward for his successful diplomacy, +but probably in order to keep so dangerous a character away from +the turbulent land of Wales, Gerald was in the following year +made a Court chaplain. In 1185 he was commissioned by the +king to accompany Prince John, then a lad of eighteen, who had +lately been created “Lord of Ireland,” to the city of +Dublin. There he abode for two years, collecting materials +for his two first books, the “Topography” and the +“Conquest of Ireland.” In 1188 he accompanied +Archbishop Baldwin through Wales to preach the Third +Crusade—not the first or the last inconsistency of which +the champion of the independence of the Welsh Church was +guilty. His “Itinerary through Wales” is the +record of the expedition. King Richard offered him the +Bishopric of Bangor, and John, in his brother’s absence, +offered him that of Llandaff. But his heart was set on St. +David’s. In 1198 his great chance came to him. +At last, after twenty-two years of misrule, Peter de Leia was +dead, and Gerald seemed certain of attaining his heart’s +desire. Once again the chapter nominated Gerald; once more +the royal authority was exerted, this time by Archbishop Hubert, +the justiciar in the king’s absence, to defeat the +ambitious Welshman. The chapter decided to send a +deputation to King Richard in Normandy. The deputation +arrived at Chinon to find Coeur-de-Lion dead; but John was +anxious to make friends everywhere, in order to secure himself on +his uncertain throne. He received the deputation +graciously, he spoke in praise of Gerald, and he agreed to accept +the nomination. But after his return to England John +changed his mind. He found that no danger threatened him in +his island kingdom, and he saw the wisdom of the +justiciar’s policy. Gerald hurried to see him, but +John point blank refused publicly to ratify his consent to the +nomination which he had already given <a name="pagexvi"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. xvi</span>in private. Then commenced the +historic fight for St. David’s which, in view of the still +active “Church question” in Wales, is even now +invested with a living interest and significance. Gerald +contended that the Welsh Church was independent of Canterbury, +and that it was only recently, since the Norman Conquest, that +she had been deprived of her freedom. His opponents relied +on political, rather than historical, considerations to defeat +this bold claim. King Henry, when a deputation from the +chapter in 1175 appeared before the great council in London and +had urged the metropolitan claims of St. David’s upon the +Cardinal Legate, exclaimed that he had no intention of giving +this head to rebellion in Wales. Archbishop Hubert, more of +a statesman than an ecclesiastic, based his opposition on similar +grounds. He explained his reasons bluntly to the +Pope. “Unless the barbarity of this fierce and +lawless people can be restrained by ecclesiastical censures +through the see of Canterbury, to which province they are subject +by law, they will be for ever rising in arms against the king, to +the disquiet of the whole realm of England.” +Gerald’s answer to this was complete, except from the point +of view of political expediency. “What can be more +unjust than that this people of ancient faith, because they +answer force by force in defence of their lives, their lands, and +their liberties, should be forthwith separated from the body +corporate of Christendom, and delivered over to Satan?”</p> +<p>The story of the long fight between Gerald on the one hand and +the whole forces of secular and ecclesiastical authority on the +other cannot be told here. Three times did he visit Rome to +prosecute his appeal—alone against the world. He had +to journey through districts disturbed by wars, infested with the +king’s men or the king’s enemies, all of whom +regarded Gerald with hostility. He was taken and thrown +into prison as King John’s subject in one town, he was +detained by <a name="pagexvii"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +xvii</span>importunate creditors in another, and at Rome he was +betrayed by a countryman whom he had befriended. He himself +has told us</p> + +<blockquote><p> Of +the most disastrous chances<br /> +Of moving accidents by flood and field,</p> +</blockquote> +<p>which made a journey from St. David’s to Rome a more +perilous adventure in those unquiet days than an expedition +“through darkest Africa” is in ours. At last +the very Chapter of St. David’s, for whose ancient rights +he was contending, basely deserted him. “The laity of +Wales stood by me,” so he wrote in later days, “but +of the clergy whose battle I was fighting scarce +one.” Pope Innocent III. was far too wary a +politician to favour the claims of a small and distracted nation, +already half-subjugated, against the king of a rich and powerful +country. He flattered our poor Gerald, he delighted in his +company, he accepted, and perhaps even read, his books. But +in the end, after five years’ incessant fighting, the +decision went against him, and the English king’s nominee +has ever since sat on the throne of St. David’s. +“Many and great wars,” said Gwenwynwyn, the Prince of +Powis, “have we Welshmen waged with England, but none so +great and fierce as his who fought the king and the archbishop, +and withstood the might of the whole clergy and people of +England, for the honour of Wales.”</p> +<p>Short was the memory and scant the gratitude of his +countrymen. When in 1214 another vacancy occurred at a time +when King John was at variance with his barons and his prelates, +the Chapter of St. David’s nominated, not Gerald, their old +champion, but Iorwerth, the Abbot of Talley, from whose reforming +zeal they had nothing to fear. This last prick of +Fortune’s sword pierced Gerald to the quick. He had +for years been gradually withdrawing from an active life. +He had resigned his archdeaconry and his prebend stall, he had +made a fourth pilgrimage, this time for his soul’s <a +name="pagexviii"></a><span class="pagenum">p. xviii</span>sake, +to Rome, he had retired to a quiet pursuit of letters probably at +Lincoln, and henceforward, till his death about the year 1223, he +devoted himself to revising and embellishing his old works, and +completing his literary labours. By his fight for St. +David’s he had endeared himself to the laity of his country +for all time. The saying of Llewelyn the Great was +prophetic. “So long as Wales shall stand by the +writings of the chroniclers and by the songs of the bards shall +his noble deed be praised throughout all time.” The +prophecy has not yet been verified. Welsh chroniclers have +made but scanty references to Gerald; no bard has ever yet sung +an <i>Awdl</i> or a <i>Pryddest</i> in honour of him who fought +for the “honour of Wales.” His countrymen have +forgotten Gerald the Welshman. It has been left to Sir +Richard Colt Hoare, Foster, Professor Brewer, Dimmock, and +Professor Freeman to edit his works. Only two of his +countrymen have attempted to rescue one of the greatest of +Welshmen from an undeserved oblivion. In 1585, when the +Renaissance of Letters had begun to rouse the dormant powers of +the Cymry, Dr. David Powel edited in Latin a garbled version of +the “Itinerary” and “Description of +Wales,” and gave a short and inaccurate account of +Gerald’s life. In 1889 Dr. Henry Owen published, +“at his own proper charges,” the first adequate +account by a Welshman of the life and labours of Giraldus +Cambrensis. When his monument is erected in the cathedral +which was built by his hated rival, the epitaph which he composed +for himself may well be inscribed upon it—</p> +<blockquote><p>Cambria Giraldus genuit, sic Cambria mentem<br /> +Erudiit, cineres cui lapis iste tegit.</p> +</blockquote> +<p>And by that time perhaps some competent scholar will have +translated some at least of Gerald’s works into the +language best understood by the people of Wales.</p> +<p>It would be impossible to exaggerate the enormous services +which three great Welshmen of the twelfth <a +name="pagexix"></a><span class="pagenum">p. xix</span>century +rendered to England and to the world—such services as we +may securely hope will be emulated by Welshmen of the next +generation, now that we have lived to witness what Mr. Theodore +Watts-Dunton has called “the great recrudescence of Cymric +energy.” <a name="citation0e"></a><a href="#footnote0e" +class="citation">[0e]</a> The romantic literature of +England owes its origin to Geoffrey of Monmouth; <a +name="citation0f"></a><a href="#footnote0f" +class="citation">[0f]</a> Sir Galahad, the stainless knight, the +mirror of Christian chivalry, as well as the nobler portions of +the Arthurian romance, were the creation of Walter Map, the +friend and “gossip” of Gerald; <a +name="citation0g"></a><a href="#footnote0g" +class="citation">[0g]</a> and John Richard Green has truly called +Gerald himself “the father of popular literature.” <a +name="citation0h"></a><a href="#footnote0h" +class="citation">[0h]</a> He began to write when he was +only twenty; he continued to write till he was past the allotted +span of life. He is the most “modern” as well +as the most voluminous of all the mediæval writers. +Of all English writers, Miss Kate Norgate <a +name="citation0i"></a><a href="#footnote0i" +class="citation">[0i]</a> has perhaps most justly estimated the +real place of Gerald in English letters. +“Gerald’s wide range of subjects,” she says, +“is only less remarkable than the ease and freedom with +which he treats them. Whatever he touches—history, +archæology, geography, natural science, politics, the +social life and thought of the day, the physical peculiarities of +Ireland and the manners and customs of its people, the +picturesque scenery and traditions of his own native land, the +scandals of the court and the cloister, the petty struggle for +the primacy of Wales, and the great tragedy of the fall of the +Angevin Empire—is all alike dealt with in the bold, +dashing, offhand <a name="pagexx"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +xx</span>style of a modern newspaper or magazine article. +His first important work, the ‘Topography of +Ireland,’ is, with due allowance for the difference between +the tastes of the twelfth century and those of the nineteenth, +just such a series of sketches as a special correspondent in our +own day might send from some newly-colonised island in the +Pacific to satisfy or whet the curiosity of his readers at +home.” The description aptly applies to all that +Gerald wrote. If not a historian, he was at least a great +<a name="pagexxi"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +xxi</span>journalist. His descriptions of Ireland have been +subjected to much hostile criticism from the day they were +written to our own times. They were assailed at the time, +as Gerald himself tells us, for their unconventionality, for +their departure from established custom, for the freedom and +colloquialism of their style, for the audacity of their stories, +and for the writer’s daring in venturing to treat the +manners and customs of a barbarous country as worthy the +attention of the learned and the labours of the historian. +Irish scholars, from the days of Dr. John Lynch, who published +his “Cambrensis Eversus” in 1622, have unanimously +denounced the work of the sensational journalist, born out of due +time. His Irish books are confessedly partisan; the +“Conquest of Ireland” was expressly designed as an +eulogy of “the men of St. David’s,” the +writer’s own kinsmen. But in spite of partisanship +and prejudice, they must be regarded as a serious and valuable +addition to our knowledge of the state of Ireland at the latter +end of the twelfth century. Indeed, Professor Brewer does +not hesitate to say that “to his industry we are +exclusively indebted for all that is known of the state of +Ireland during the whole of the Middle Ages,” and as to the +“Topography,” Gerald “must take rank with the +first who descried the value and in some respects the limits of +descriptive geography.”</p> +<p>When he came to deal with the affairs of state on a larger +stage, his methods were still that of the modern +journalist. He was always an impressionist, a writer of +personal sketches. His character sketches of the +Plantagenet princes—of King Henry with his large round head +and fat round belly, his fierce eyes, his tigerish temper, his +learning, his licentiousness, his duplicity, and of Eleanor of +Aquitaine, his vixenish and revengeful wife, the murderess of +“Fair Rosamond” (who must have been known to Gerald, +being the daughter of Walter of Clifford-on-the-Wye), and of the +fierce brood that they reared—are of extraordinary +interest. His impressions of the men and events of his +time, his fund of anecdotes and <i>bon mots</i>, his references +to trivial matters, which more dignified writers would never +deign to mention, his sprightly and sometimes malicious gossip, +invest his period with a reality which the greatest of +fiction-writers has failed to rival. Gerald lived in the +days of chivalry, days which have been crowned with a halo of +deathless romance by the author of “Ivanhoe” and the +“Talisman.” He knew and was intimate with all +the great actors of the time. He had lived in the Paris of +St. Louis and Philip Augustus, and was never tired of exalting +the House of Capet over the tyrannical and bloodthirsty House of +Anjou. He had no love of England, for her Plantagenet kings +or her Saxon serfs. During the French invasion in the time +of King John his sympathies were openly with the Dauphin as +against the “brood of vipers,” who were equally alien +to English soil. For the Saxon, indeed, he felt the twofold +hatred of Welshman and Norman. One of his opponents is +denounced to the Pope as an “untriwe Sax,” and the +Saxons are described as the slaves of the Normans, the mere +hewers of wood and drawers of water for their conquerors. +He met Innocent III., the greatest of Popes, in familiar +converse, he jested and gossiped with him in slippered ease, he +made him laugh at his endless stories of the glory of Wales, the +iniquities of the Angevins, and the bad Latin of Archbishop +Walter. He <a name="pagexxii"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +xxii</span>knew Richard Cœur-de-Lion, the flower of +chivalry, and saw him as he was and “not through a glass +darkly.” He knew John, the cleverest and basest of +his house. He knew and loved Stephen Langton, the precursor +of a long line of statesmen who have made English liberty +broad—based upon the people’s will. He was a +friend of St. Hugh of Lincoln, the sweetest and purest spirit in +the Anglican Church of the Middle Ages, the one man who could +disarm the wrath of the fierce king with a smile; and he was the +friend and patron of Robert Grosstete, afterwards the great +Bishop of Lincoln. He lived much in company with Ranulph de +Glanville, the first English jurist, and he has +“Boswellised” some of his conversations with +him. He was intimate with Archbishop Baldwin, the saintly +prelate who laid down his life in the Third Crusade on the +burning plains of Palestine, heart-broken at the unbridled +wickedness of the soldiers of the Cross. He was the near +kinsman and confidant of the Cambro-Normans, who, landing in +Leinster in 1165, effected what may be described as the first +conquest of Ireland. There was scarcely a man of note in +his day whom he had not seen and conversed with, or of whom he +does not relate some piquant story. He had travelled much, +and had observed closely. Probably the most valuable of all +his works, from the strictly historical point of view, are the +“Itinerary” and “Description of Wales,” +which are reprinted in the present volume. <a +name="citation0j"></a><a href="#footnote0j" +class="citation">[0j]</a> Here he is impartial in his +evidence, and judicial in his decisions. If he errs at all, +it is not through racial prejudice. “I am +sprung,” he once told the Pope in a letter, “from the +princes of Wales and from the barons of the Marches, and when I +see injustice in either race, I hate it.”</p> +<p>The text is that of Sir Richard Colt Hoare, who published an +English translation, chiefly from the texts of Camden and +Wharton, in 1806. The valuable historical notes have been +curtailed, as being too elaborate for <a +name="pagexxiii"></a><span class="pagenum">p. xxiii</span>such a +volume as this, and a few notes have been added by the present +editor. These will be found within brackets. +Hoare’s translation, and also translations (edited by Mr. +Foster) of the Irish books have been published in Bohn’s +Antiquarian Library.</p> +<p>The first of the seven volumes of the Latin text of Gerald, +published in the Rolls Series, appeared in 1861. The first +four volumes were edited by Professor Brewer; the next two by Mr. +Dimmock; and the seventh by Professor Freeman.</p> +<p style="text-align: right">W. LLEWELYN WILLIAMS.</p> +<p><i>January</i> 1908.</p> + +<div class="gapspace"> </div> +<p>The following is a list of the more important of the works of +Gerald:—</p> +<p class="gutindent">Topographia Hibernica, Expugnatio Hibernica, +Itinerarium Kambriæ, Descriptio Kambriæ, Gemma +Ecclesiastica, Libellus Invectionum, De Rebus a se Gestis, +Dialogus de jure et statu Menevensis Ecclesiæ, De +Instructione Principum, De Legendis Sanctorum, Symbolum +Electorum.</p> +<h2><a name="page3"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 3</span>FIRST +PREFACE<br /> +<span class="GutSmall">TO STEPHEN LANGTON, ARCHBISHOP OF +CANTERBURY</span></h2> +<p><span class="smcap">As</span> the times are affected by the +changes of circumstances, so are the minds of men influenced by +different manners and customs. The satirist [Persius] +exclaims,</p> +<blockquote><p>“Mille hominum species et mentis discolor +usus;<br /> +Velle suum cuique est, nec voto vivitur uno.”</p> +<p>“Nature is ever various in her name;<br /> +Each has a different will, and few the same.”</p> +</blockquote> +<p>The comic poet also says, “<i>Quot capita tot +sententiæ</i>, <i>suus cuique mos est</i>.” +“As many men, so many minds, each has his way.” +Young soldiers exult in war, and pleaders delight in the gown; +others aspire after riches, and think them the supreme +good. Some approve Galen, some Justinian. Those who +are desirous of honours follow the court, and from their +ambitious pursuits meet with more mortification than +satisfaction. Some, indeed, but very few, take pleasure in +the liberal arts, amongst whom we cannot but admire logicians, +who, when they have made only a trifling progress, are as much +enchanted with the images of Dialectics, as if they were +listening to the songs of the Syrens.</p> +<p>But among so many species of men, where are to be found divine +poets? Where the noble assertors of morals? Where the +masters of the Latin tongue? Who in the present times +displays lettered eloquence, either in history or poetry? +Who, I say, in our own age, either builds a system of ethics, or +consigns illustrious <a name="page4"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +4</span>actions to immortality? Literary fame, which used +to be placed in the highest rank, is now, because of the +depravity of the times, tending to ruin and degraded to the +lowest, so that persons attached to study are at present not only +not imitated nor venerated, but even detested. “Happy +indeed would be the arts,” observes Fabius, “if +artists alone judged of the arts;” but, as Sydonius says, +“it is a fixed principle in the human mind, that they who +are ignorant of the arts despise the artist.”</p> +<p>But to revert to our subject. Which, I ask, have +rendered more service to the world, the arms of Marius or the +verses of Virgil? The sword of Marius has rusted, while the +fame of him who wrote the Æneid is immortal; and although +in his time letters were honoured by lettered persons, yet from +his own pen we find,</p> + +<blockquote><p> “— +— tantum<br /> +Carmina nostra valent tela inter Martia, quantum<br /> +Chaonias dicunt, aquila veniente, columbas.”</p> +</blockquote> +<p>Who would hesitate in deciding which are more profitable, the +works of St. Jerom, or the riches of Crœsus? but where now +shine the gold and silver of Crœsus? whilst the world is +instructed by the example and enlightened by the learning of the +poor cœnobite. Yet even he, through envy, suffered +stripes and contumely at Rome, although his character was so +illustrious; and at length being driven beyond the seas, found a +refuge for his studies in the solitude of Bethlehem. Thus +it appears, that gold and arms may support us in this life, but +avail nothing after death; and that letters through envy profit +nothing in this world, but, like a testament, acquire an immortal +value from the seal of death.</p> +<p>According to the poet,</p> +<blockquote><p>“Pascitur in vivis livor, post fata +quiescit;<br /> + Cum suus ex merito quemque tuetur +honor.”</p> +</blockquote> +<p>And also</p> +<blockquote><p>“Denique si quis adhuc prætendit +nubila, livor<br /> +Occidet, et meriti post me referentur honores.”</p> +</blockquote> +<p><a name="page5"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 5</span>Those who +by artifice endeavour to acquire or preserve the reputation of +abilities or ingenuity, while they abound in the words of others, +have little cause to boast of their own inventions. For the +composers of that polished language, in which such various cases +as occur in the great body of law are treated with such an +appropriate elegance of style, must ever stand forward in the +first ranks of praise. I should indeed have said, that the +authors of refined language, not the hearers only, the inventors, +not the reciters, are most worthy of commendation. You will +find, however, that the practices of the court and of the schools +are extremely similar; as well in the subtleties they employ to +lead you forward, as in the steadiness with which they generally +maintain their own positions. Yet it is certain that the +knowledge of logic (the <i>acumen</i>, if I may so express it, of +all other sciences as well as arts) is very useful, when +restricted within proper bounds; whilst the court (<i>i.e.</i> +courtly language), excepting to sycophants or ambitious men, is +by no means necessary. For if you are successful at court, +ambition never wholly quits its hold till satiated, and allures +and draws you still closer; but if your labour is thrown away, +you still continue the pursuit, and, together with your +substance, lose your time, the greatest and most irretrievable of +all losses. There is likewise some resemblance between the +court and the game of dice, as the poet observes:—</p> +<blockquote><p>“Sic ne perdiderit non cessat perdere +lusor,<br /> + Dum revocat cupidas alea blanda +manus;”</p> +</blockquote> +<p>which, by substituting the word <i>curia</i> for <i>alea</i>, +may be applied to the court. This further proof of their +resemblance may be added; that as the chances of the dice and +court are not productive of any real delight, so they are equally +distributed to the worthy and the unworthy.</p> +<p>Since, therefore, among so many species of men, each follows +his own inclination, and each is actuated by different desires, a +regard for posterity has induced me <a name="page6"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 6</span>to choose the study of composition; +and, as this life is temporary and mutable, it is grateful to +live in the memory of future ages, and to be immortalized by +fame; for to toil after that which produces envy in life, but +glory after death, is a sure indication of an elevated +mind. Poets and authors indeed aspire after immortality, +but do not reject any present advantages that may offer.</p> +<p>I formerly completed with vain and fruitless labour the +Topography of Ireland for its companion, the king Henry the +Second, and Vaticinal History, for Richard of Poitiou, his son, +and, I wish I were not compelled to add, his successor in vice; +princes little skilled in letters, and much engaged in +business. To you, illustrious Stephen, archbishop of +Canterbury, equally commendable for your learning and religion, I +now dedicate the account of our meritorious journey through the +rugged provinces of Cambria, written in a scholastic style, and +divided into two parts. For as virtue loves itself, and +detests what is contrary to it, so I hope you will consider +whatever I may have written in commendation of your late +venerable and eminent predecessor, with no less affection than if +it related to yourself. To you also, when completed, I +destine my treatise on the Instruction of a Prince, if, amidst +your religious and worldly occupations, you can find leisure for +the perusal of it. For I purpose to submit these and other +fruits of my diligence to be tasted by you at your discretion, +each in its proper order; hoping that, if my larger undertakings +do not excite your interest, my smaller works may at least merit +your approbation, conciliate your favour, and call forth my +gratitude towards you; who, unmindful of worldly affections, do +not partially distribute your bounties to your family and +friends, but to letters and merit; you, who, in the midst of such +great and unceasing contests between the crown and the +priesthood, stand forth almost singly the firm and faithful +friend of the British church; you, who, almost the only one duly +elected, fulfil the scriptural designation of the episcopal +character. It is not, however, <a name="page7"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 7</span>by bearing a cap, by placing a +cushion, by shielding off the rain, or by wiping the dust, even +if there should be none, in the midst of a herd of flatterers, +that I attempt to conciliate your favour, but by my +writings. To you, therefore, rare, noble, and illustrious +man, on whom nature and art have showered down whatever becomes +your supereminent situation, I dedicate my works; but if I fail +in this mode of conciliating your favour, and if your prayers and +avocations should not allow you sufficient time to read them, I +shall consider the honour of letters as vanished, and in hope of +its revival I shall inscribe my writings to posterity.</p> +<h2><a name="page8"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 8</span>SECOND +PREFACE<br /> +<span class="GutSmall">TO THE SAME PRELATE</span></h2> +<p><span class="smcap">Since</span> those things, which are known +to have been done through a laudable devotion, are not unworthily +extolled with due praises; and since the mind, when relaxed, +loses its energy, and the torpor of sloth enervates the +understanding, as iron acquires rust for want of use, and +stagnant waters become foul; lest my pen should be injured by the +rust of idleness, I have thought good to commit to writing the +devout visitation which Baldwin, archbishop of Canterbury, made +throughout Wales; and to hand down, as it were in a mirror, +through you, O illustrious Stephen, to posterity, the difficult +places through which we passed, the names of springs and +torrents, the witty sayings, the toils and incidents of the +journey, the memorable events of ancient and modern times, and +the natural history and description of the country; lest my study +should perish through idleness, or the praise of these things be +lost by silence.</p> +<h2><a name="page9"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +9</span>CONTENTS</h2> +<table> +<tr> +<td colspan="3"><p style="text-align: center">BOOK I</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p><span class="GutSmall">CHAPTER</span></p> +</td> +<td><p> </p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span +class="GutSmall">PAGE</span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p style="text-align: right">I.</p> +</td> +<td><p>Journey through Hereford and Radnor</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page11">11</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p style="text-align: right">II.</p> +</td> +<td><p>Journey through Hay and Brecheinia</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page18">18</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p style="text-align: right">III.</p> +</td> +<td><p>Ewyas and Llanthoni</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page34">34</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p style="text-align: right">IV.</p> +</td> +<td><p>The Journey by Coed Grono and Abergevenni</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page44">44</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p style="text-align: right">V.</p> +</td> +<td><p>Of the Progress by the Castle of Usk and the Town of +Caerleon</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page50">50</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p style="text-align: right">VI.</p> +</td> +<td><p>Newport and Caerdyf</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page56">56</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p style="text-align: right">VII.</p> +</td> +<td><p>The See of Landaf and Monastery of Margan, and the +Remarkable Things in those Parts</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page61">61</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p style="text-align: right">VIII.</p> +</td> +<td><p>Passage of the Rivers Avon and Neth—and of Abertawe +and Goer</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page65">65</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p style="text-align: right">IX.</p> +</td> +<td><p>Passage over the Rivers Lochor and Wendraeth; and of +Cydweli</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page71">71</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p style="text-align: right">X.</p> +</td> +<td><p>Tywy River—Caermardyn—Monastery of +Albelande</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page73">73</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p style="text-align: right">XI.</p> +</td> +<td><p>Of Haverford and Ros</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page76">76</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p style="text-align: right">XII.</p> +</td> +<td><p>Of Penbroch</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page82">82</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p style="text-align: right">XIII.</p> +</td> +<td><p>Of the Progress by Camros and Niwegal</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page91">91</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td colspan="3"><p style="text-align: center">BOOK II</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p style="text-align: right">I.</p> +</td> +<td><p>Of the See of Saint David’s</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page95">95</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p style="text-align: right">II.</p> +</td> +<td><p>Of the Journey by Cemmeis—the Monastery of St. +Dogmael</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page102">102</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p style="text-align: right">III.</p> +</td> +<td><p>Of the River Teivi—Cardigan, and Emelyn</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page105">105</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p style="text-align: right">IV.</p> +</td> +<td><p>Of the Journey by Pont Stephen, the Abbey of Stratflur, +Landewi Brevi, and Lhanpadarn Vawr</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page109">109</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><a name="page10"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 10</span>V.</p> +</td> +<td><p>Of the River Devi, and the Land of the Sons of Conan</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page113">113</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p style="text-align: right">VI.</p> +</td> +<td><p>Passage of traeth mawr and traeth bachan, and of nevyn, +carnarvon, and bangor</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page115">115</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p style="text-align: right">VII.</p> +</td> +<td><p>The island of mona</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page118">118</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p style="text-align: right">VIII.</p> +</td> +<td><p>Passage of the river conwy in a boat, and of dinas +emrys</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page125">125</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p style="text-align: right">IX.</p> +</td> +<td><p>Of the mountains of eryri</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page127">127</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p style="text-align: right">X.</p> +</td> +<td><p>Of the passage by deganwy and ruthlan, and the see of +lanelwy, and of coleshulle</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page128">128</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p style="text-align: right">XI.</p> +</td> +<td><p>Of the passage of the river dee, and of chester</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page131">131</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p style="text-align: right">XII.</p> +</td> +<td><p>Of the journey by the white monastery, oswaldestree, +powys, and shrewsbury</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page133">133</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p style="text-align: right">XIII.</p> +</td> +<td><p>Of the journey by wenloch, brumfeld, the castle of ludlow, +and leominster, to hereford</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page137">137</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p style="text-align: right">XIV.</p> +</td> +<td><p>A description of baldwin, archbishop of canterbury</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page139">139</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +</table> +<h2><a name="page11"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 11</span>THE +ITINERARY THROUGH WALES<br /> +BOOK I</h2> +<h3>CHAPTER I<br /> +<span class="GutSmall">JOURNEY THROUGH HEREFORD AND +RADNOR</span></h3> +<p><span class="smcap">In</span> the year 1188 from the +incarnation of our Lord, Urban the Third <a +name="citation11"></a><a href="#footnote11" +class="citation">[11]</a> being the head of the apostolic see; +Frederick, emperor of Germany and king of the Romans; Isaac, +emperor of Constantinople; Philip, the son of Louis, reigning in +France; Henry the Second in England; William in Sicily; Bela in +Hungary; and Guy in Palestine: in that very year, when Saladin, +prince of the Egyptians and Damascenes, by a signal victory +gained possession of the kingdom of Jerusalem; Baldwin, +archbishop <a name="page12"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +12</span>of Canterbury, a venerable man, distinguished for his +learning and sanctity, journeying from England for the service of +the holy cross, entered Wales near the borders of +Herefordshire.</p> +<p>The archbishop proceeded to Radnor, <a +name="citation12a"></a><a href="#footnote12a" +class="citation">[12a]</a> on Ash Wednesday (<i>Caput +Jejunii</i>), accompanied by Ranulph de Glanville, privy +counsellor and justiciary of the whole kingdom, and there met +Rhys, <a name="citation12b"></a><a href="#footnote12b" +class="citation">[12b]</a> son of Gruffydd, prince of South +Wales, and many other noble personages of those parts; where a +sermon being preached by the archbishop, upon the subject of the +Crusades, and explained to the Welsh by an interpreter, the +author of this Itinerary, impelled by the urgent importunity and +promises of the king, and the persuasions of the archbishop and +the justiciary, arose the first, and falling down at the feet of +the holy man, devoutly took the sign of the cross. His +example was instantly followed by Peter, bishop of St. +David’s, <a name="citation12c"></a><a href="#footnote12c" +class="citation">[12c]</a> a monk of the abbey of Cluny, and then +by Eineon, son of Eineon Clyd, <a name="citation12d"></a><a +href="#footnote12d" class="citation">[12d]</a> prince of Elvenia, +and many other persons. Eineon rising up, said to Rhys, +whose daughter he had married, “My father and lord! with +your permission I hasten to revenge the injury offered to the +great father of all.” Rhys himself was so fully +determined upon the holy <a name="page13"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 13</span>peregrination, as soon as the +archbishop should enter his territories on his return, that for +nearly fifteen days he was employed with great solicitude in +making the necessary preparations for so distant a journey; till +his wife, and, according to the common vicious licence of the +country, his relation in the fourth degree, Guendolena, +(Gwenllian), daughter of Madoc, prince of Powys, by female +artifices diverted him wholly from his noble purpose; since, as +Solomon says, “A man’s heart deviseth his way, but +the Lord directeth his steps.” As Rhys before his +departure was conversing with his friends concerning the things +he had heard, a distinguished young man of his family, by name +Gruffydd, and who afterwards took the cross, is said thus to have +answered: “What man of spirit can refuse to undertake this +journey, since, amongst all imaginable inconveniences, nothing +worse can happen to any one than to return.”</p> +<p>On the arrival of Rhys in his own territory, certain canons of +Saint David’s, through a zeal for their church, having +previously secured the interest of some of the prince’s +courtiers, waited on Rhys, and endeavoured by every possible +suggestion to induce him not to permit the archbishop to proceed +into the interior parts of Wales, and particularly to the +metropolitan see of Saint David’s (a thing hitherto unheard +of), at the same time asserting that if he should continue his +intended journey, the church would in future experience great +prejudice, and with difficulty would recover its ancient dignity +and honour. Although these pleas were most strenuously +urged, the natural kindness and civility of the prince would not +suffer them to prevail, lest by prohibiting the +archbishop’s progress, he might appear to wound his +feelings.</p> +<p>Early on the following morning, after the celebration of mass, +and the return of Ranulph de Glanville to England, we came to +Cruker Castle, <a name="citation13"></a><a href="#footnote13" +class="citation">[13]</a> two miles distant from <a +name="page14"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 14</span>Radnor, where +a strong and valiant youth named Hector, conversing with the +archbishop about taking the cross, said, “If I had the +means of getting provisions for one day, and of keeping fast on +the next, I would comply with your advice;” on the +following day, however, he took the cross. The same +evening, Malgo, son of Cadwallon, prince of Melenia, after a +short but efficacious exhortation from the archbishop, and not +without the tears and lamentations of his friends, was marked +with the sign of the cross.</p> +<p>But here it is proper to mention what happened during the +reign of king Henry the First to the lord of the castle of +Radnor, in the adjoining territory of Builth, <a +name="citation14a"></a><a href="#footnote14a" +class="citation">[14a]</a> who had entered the church of Saint +Avan (which is called in the British language Llan Avan), <a +name="citation14b"></a><a href="#footnote14b" +class="citation">[14b]</a> and, without sufficient caution or +reverence, had passed the night there with his hounds. +Arising early in the morning, according to the custom of hunters, +he found his hounds mad, and himself struck blind. After a +long, dark, and tedious existence, he was conveyed to Jerusalem, +happily taking care that his inward sight should not in a similar +manner be extinguished; and there being accoutred, and led to the +field of battle on horseback, he made a spirited attack upon the +enemies of the faith, and, being mortally wounded, closed his +life with honour.</p> +<p>Another circumstance which happened in these our days, in the +province of Warthrenion, <a name="citation14c"></a><a +href="#footnote14c" class="citation">[14c]</a> distant from <a +name="page15"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 15</span>hence only a +few furlongs, is not unworthy of notice. Eineon, lord of +that district, and son-in-law to prince Rhys, who was much +addicted to the chase, having on a certain day forced the wild +beasts from their coverts, one of his attendants killed a hind +with an arrow, as she was springing forth from the wood, which, +contrary to the nature of her sex, was found to bear horns of +twelve years’ growth, and was much fatter than a stag, in +the haunches as well as in every other part. On account of +the singularity of this circumstance, the head and horns of this +strange animal were destined as a present to king Henry the +Second. This event is the more remarkable, as the man who +shot the hind suddenly lost the use of his right eye, and being +at the same time seized with a paralytic complaint, remained in a +weak and impotent state until the time of his death.</p> +<p>In this same province of Warthrenion, and in the church of +Saint Germanus, <a name="citation15a"></a><a href="#footnote15a" +class="citation">[15a]</a> there is a staff of Saint Cyric, <a +name="citation15b"></a><a href="#footnote15b" +class="citation">[15b]</a> covered on all sides with gold and +silver, and resembling in its upper part the form of a cross; its +efficacy has been proved in many cases, but particularly in the +removal of glandular and strumous swellings; insomuch that all +persons <a name="page16"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +16</span>afflicted with these complaints, on a devout application +to the staff, with the oblation of one penny, are restored to +health. But it happened in these our days, that a strumous +patient on presenting one halfpenny to the staff, the humour +subsided only in the middle; but when the oblation was completed +by the other halfpenny, an entire cure was accomplished. +Another person also coming to the staff with the promise of a +penny, was cured; but not fulfilling his engagement on the day +appointed, he relapsed into his former disorder; in order, +however, to obtain pardon for his offence, he tripled the +offering by presenting three-pence, and thus obtained a complete +cure.</p> +<p>At Elevein, in the church of Glascum, <a +name="citation16a"></a><a href="#footnote16a" +class="citation">[16a]</a> is a portable bell, endowed with great +virtues, called Bangu, <a name="citation16b"></a><a +href="#footnote16b" class="citation">[16b]</a> and said to have +belonged to Saint David. A certain woman secretly conveyed +this bell to her husband, who was confined in the castle of +Raidergwy, <a name="citation16c"></a><a href="#footnote16c" +class="citation">[16c]</a> near Warthrenion, (which Rhys, son of +Gruffydd, had lately built) for the purpose of his +deliverance. The keepers of the castle not only refused to +liberate him for this consideration, but seized and detained the +bell; and in the same night, by divine vengeance, the whole town, +except the wall on which the bell hung, was consumed by fire.</p> +<p>The church of Luel, <a name="citation16d"></a><a +href="#footnote16d" class="citation">[16d]</a> in the +neighbourhood of Brecheinoc <a name="page17"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 17</span>(<i>Brechinia</i>), was burned, also +in our time, by the enemy, and everything destroyed, except one +small box, in which the consecrated host was deposited.</p> +<p>It came to pass also in the province of Elvenia, which is +separated from Hay by the river Wye, in the night in which king +Henry I. expired, that two pools <a name="citation17"></a><a +href="#footnote17" class="citation">[17]</a> of no small extent, +the one natural, the other artificial, suddenly burst their +bounds; the latter, by its precipitate course down the +declivities, emptied itself; but the former, with its fish and +contents, obtained a permanent situation in a valley about two +miles distant. In Normandy, a few days before the death of +Henry II., the fish of a certain pool near Seez, five miles from +the castle of Exme, fought during the night so furiously with +each other, both in the water and out of it, that the +neighbouring people were attracted by the noise to the spot; and +so desperate was the conflict, that scarcely a fish was found +alive in the morning; thus, by a wonderful and unheard-of +prognostic, foretelling the death of one by that of many.</p> +<p>But the borders of Wales sufficiently remember and abhor the +great and enormous excesses which, from ambitious usurpation of +territory, have arisen amongst brothers and relations in the +districts of Melenyth, Elvein, and Warthrenion, situated between +the Wye and the Severn.</p> +<h2><a name="page18"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +18</span>CHAPTER II<br /> +<span class="GutSmall">JOURNEY THROUGH HAY AND +BRECHEINIA</span></h2> +<p><span class="smcap">Having</span> crossed the river Wye, we +proceeded towards Brecheinoc, and on preaching a sermon at Hay, +<a name="citation18a"></a><a href="#footnote18a" +class="citation">[18a]</a> we observed some amongst the +multitude, who were to be signed with the cross (leaving their +garments in the hands of their friends or wives, who endeavoured +to keep them back), fly for refuge to the archbishop in the +castle. Early in the morning we began our journey to +Aberhodni, and the word of the Lord being preached at Landeu, <a +name="citation18b"></a><a href="#footnote18b" +class="citation">[18b]</a> we there spent the night. The +castle and chief town of the province, situated where the river +Hodni joins the river Usk, is called Aberhodni; <a +name="citation18c"></a><a href="#footnote18c" +class="citation">[18c]</a> and every place where one river falls +into another is called Aber in the British tongue. Landeu +signifies the church of God. <a name="page19"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 19</span>The archdeacon of that place +(Giraldus) presented to the archbishop his work on the Topography +of Ireland, which he graciously received, and either read or +heard a part of it read attentively every day during his journey; +and on his return to England completed the perusal of it.</p> +<p>I have determined not to omit mentioning those occurrences +worthy of note which happened in these parts in our days. +It came to pass before that great war, in which nearly all this +province was destroyed by the sons of Jestin, <a +name="citation19a"></a><a href="#footnote19a" +class="citation">[19a]</a> that the large lake, and the river +Leveni, <a name="citation19b"></a><a href="#footnote19b" +class="citation">[19b]</a> which flows from it into the Wye, +opposite Glasbyry, <a name="citation19c"></a><a +href="#footnote19c" class="citation">[19c]</a> were tinged with a +deep green colour. The old people of the country were +consulted, and answered, that a short time before the great +desolation <a name="citation19d"></a><a href="#footnote19d" +class="citation">[19d]</a> caused by Howel, son of Meredyth, the +water had been coloured in a similar manner. About the same +time, a chaplain, whose name was Hugo, being engaged to officiate +at the chapel of Saint Nicholas, in the castle of Aberhodni, saw +in a dream a venerable man standing near him, and saying, +“Tell thy lord William de Braose, <a +name="citation19e"></a><a href="#footnote19e" +class="citation">[19e]</a> who has the audacity <a +name="page20"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 20</span>to retain the +property granted to the chapel of Saint Nicholas for charitable +uses, these words: ‘The public treasury takes away that +which Christ does not receive; and thou wilt then give to an +impious soldier, what thou wilt not give to a +priest.’” This vision having been repeated +three times, he went to the archdeacon of the place, at Landeu, +and related to him what had happened. The archdeacon +immediately knew them to be the words of Augustine; and shewing +him that part of his writings where they were found, explained to +him the case to which they applied. He reproaches persons +who held back tithes and other ecclesiastical dues; and what he +there threatens, certainly in a short time befell this withholder +of them: for in our time we have duly and undoubtedly seen, that +princes who have usurped ecclesiastical benefices (and +particularly king Henry the Second, who laboured under this vice +more than others), have profusely squandered the treasures of the +church, and given away to hired soldiers what in justice should +have been given only to priests.</p> +<p>Yet something is to be said in favour of the aforesaid William +de Braose, although he greatly offended in this particular (since +nothing human is perfect, and to have knowledge of all things, +and in no point to err, is an attribute of God, not of man); for +he always placed the name of the Lord before his sentences, +saying, “Let this be done in the name of the Lord; let that +be done by God’s will; if it shall please God, or if God +grant leave; it shall be so by the grace of God.” We +learn from Saint <a name="page21"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +21</span>Paul, that everything ought thus to be committed and +referred to the will of God. On taking leave of his +brethren, he says, “I will return to you again, if God +permit;” and Saint James uses this expression, “If +the Lord will, and we live,” in order to show that all +things ought to be submitted to the divine disposal. The +letters also which William de Braose, as a rich and powerful man, +was accustomed to send to different parts, were loaded, or rather +honoured, with words expressive of the divine indulgence to a +degree not only tiresome to his scribe, but even to his auditors; +for as a reward to each of his scribes for concluding his letters +with the words, “by divine assistance,” he gave +annually a piece of gold, in addition to their stipend. +When on a journey he saw a church or a cross, although in the +midst of conversation either with his inferiors or superiors, +from an excess of devotion, he immediately began to pray, and +when he had finished his prayers, resumed his conversation. +On meeting boys in the way, he invited them by a previous +salutation to salute him, that the blessings of these innocents, +thus extorted, might be returned to him. His wife, Matilda +de Saint Valery, observed all these things: a prudent and chaste +woman; a woman placed with propriety at the head of her house, +equally attentive to the economical disposal of her property +within doors, as to the augmentation of it without; both of whom, +I hope, by their devotion obtained temporal happiness and grace, +as well as the glory of eternity.</p> +<p>It happened also that the hand of a boy, who was endeavouring +to take some young pigeons from a nest, in the church of Saint +David of Llanvaes, <a name="citation21"></a><a href="#footnote21" +class="citation">[21]</a> adhered to the stone on which he +leaned, through the miraculous vengeance, <a +name="page22"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 22</span>perhaps, of +that saint, in favour of the birds who had taken refuge in his +church; and when the boy, attended by his friends and parents, +had for three successive days and nights offered up his prayers +and supplications before the holy altar of the church, his hand +was, on the third day, liberated by the same divine power which +had so miraculously fastened it. We saw this same boy at +Newbury, in England, now advanced in years, presenting himself +before David the Second, <a name="citation22a"></a><a +href="#footnote22a" class="citation">[22a]</a> bishop of Saint +David’s, and certifying to him the truth of this relation, +because it had happened in his diocese. The stone is +preserved in the church to this day among the relics, and the +marks of the five fingers appear impressed on the flint as though +it were in wax.</p> +<p>A small miracle happened at St. Edmundsbury to a poor woman, +who often visited the shrine of the saint, under the mask of +devotion; not with the design of giving, but of taking something +away, namely, the silver and gold offerings, which, by a curious +kind of theft, she licked up by kissing, and carried away in her +mouth. But in one of these attempts her tongue and lips +adhered to the altar, when by divine interposition she was +detected, and openly disgorged the secret theft. Many +persons, both Jews and Christians, expressing their astonishment, +flocked to the place, where for the greater part of the day she +remained motionless, that no possible doubt might be entertained +of the miracle.</p> +<p>In the north of England beyond the Humber, in the church of +Hovedene, <a name="citation22b"></a><a href="#footnote22b" +class="citation">[22b]</a> the concubine of the rector +incautiously sat down on the tomb of St. Osana, sister of king +Osred, <a name="citation22c"></a><a href="#footnote22c" +class="citation">[22c]</a> which projected like a wooden seat; on +wishing to retire, she could not be removed, until the people +came to her assistance; her clothes were rent, her <a +name="page23"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 23</span>body was laid +bare, and severely afflicted with many strokes of discipline, +even till the blood flowed; nor did she regain her liberty, until +by many tears and sincere repentance she had showed evident signs +of compunction.</p> +<p>What miraculous power hath not in our days been displayed by +the psalter of Quindreda, sister of St. Kenelm, <a +name="citation23a"></a><a href="#footnote23a" +class="citation">[23a]</a> by whose instigation he was +killed? On the vigil of the saint, when, according to +custom, great multitudes of women resorted to the feast at +Winchelcumbe, <a name="citation23b"></a><a href="#footnote23b" +class="citation">[23b]</a> the under butler of that convent +committed fornication with one of them within the precincts of +the monastery. This same man on the following day had the +audacity to carry the psalter in the procession of the relics of +the saints; and on his return to the choir, after the solemnity, +the psalter stuck to his hands. Astonished and greatly +confounded, and at length calling to his mind his crime on the +preceding day, he made confession, and underwent penance; and +being assisted by the prayers of the brotherhood, and having +shown signs of sincere contrition, he was at length liberated +from the miraculous bond. That book was held in great +veneration; because, when the body of St. Kenelm was carried +forth, and the multitude cried out, “He is the martyr of +God! truly he is the martyr of God!” Quindreda, +conscious and guilty of the murder of her brother, answered, +“He is as truly the martyr of God as it is true that my +eyes be on that psalter;” for, <a name="page24"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 24</span>as she was reading the psalter, both +her eyes were miraculously torn from her head, and fell on the +book, where the marks of the blood yet remain.</p> +<p>Moreover I must not be silent concerning the collar +(<i>torques</i>) which they call St. Canauc’s; <a +name="citation24"></a><a href="#footnote24" +class="citation">[24]</a> for it is most like to gold in weight, +nature, and colour; it is in four pieces wrought round, joined +together artificially, and clefted as it were in the middle, with +a dog’s head, the teeth standing outward; it is esteemed by +the inhabitants so powerful a relic, that no man dares swear +falsely when it is laid before him: it bears the marks of some +severe blows, as if made with an iron hammer; for a certain man, +as it is said, endeavouring to break the collar for the sake of +the gold, experienced the divine vengeance, was deprived of his +eyesight, and lingered the remainder of his days in darkness.</p> +<p>A similar circumstance concerning the horn of St. Patrick (not +golden indeed, but of brass [probably bronze], which lately was +brought into these parts from Ireland) excites our +admiration. The miraculous power of this relic first +appeared with a terrible example in that country, through the +foolish and absurd blowing of Bernard, a priest, as is set forth +in our Topography of Ireland. Both the laity and clergy in +Ireland, Scotland, and Wales held in such great veneration +portable bells, and staves crooked at the top, and covered with +gold, silver, or brass, and similar relics of the saints, that +they were much more afraid of swearing falsely by them than by +the gospels; because, from some hidden and miraculous power with +which they are gifted, and the vengeance of the saint to whom +they are particularly pleasing, their despisers and transgressors +are severely punished. The <a name="page25"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 25</span>most remarkable circumstance +attending this horn is, that whoever places the wider end of it +to his ear will hear a sweet sound and melody united, such as +ariseth from a harp gently touched.</p> +<p>In our days a strange occurrence happened in the same +district. A wild sow, which by chance had been suckled by a +bitch famous for her nose, became, on growing up, so wonderfully +active in the pursuit of wild animals, that in the faculty of +scent she was greatly superior to dogs, who are assisted by +natural instinct, as well as by human art; an argument that man +(as well as every other animal) contracts the nature of the +female who nurses him. Another prodigious event came to +pass nearly at the same time. A soldier, whose name was +Gilbert Hagernel, after an illness of nearly three years, and the +severe pains as of a woman in labour, in the presence of many +people, voided a calf. A portent of some new and unusual +event, or rather the punishment attendant on some atrocious +crime. It appears also from the ancient and authentic +records of those parts, that during the time St. Elwitus <a +name="citation25a"></a><a href="#footnote25a" +class="citation">[25a]</a> led the life of a hermit at +Llanhamelach, <a name="citation25b"></a><a href="#footnote25b" +class="citation">[25b]</a> the mare that used to carry his +provisions to him was covered by a stag, and produced an animal +of wonderful speed, resembling a horse before and a stag +behind.</p> +<p><a name="page26"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 26</span>Bernard +de Newmarch <a name="citation26a"></a><a href="#footnote26a" +class="citation">[26a]</a> was the first of the Normans who +acquired by conquest from the Welsh this province, which was +divided into three cantreds. <a name="citation26b"></a><a +href="#footnote26b" class="citation">[26b]</a> He married +the daughter of Nest, daughter of Gruffydd, son of Llewelyn, who, +by his tyranny, for a long time had oppressed Wales; his wife +took her mother’s name of Nest, which the English +transmuted into Anne; by whom he had children, one of whom, named +Mahel, a distinguished soldier, was thus unjustly deprived of his +paternal inheritance. His mother, in violation of the +marriage contract, held an adulterous intercourse with a certain +knight; on the discovery of which, the son met the knight +returning in the night from his mother, and having inflicted on +him a severe corporal punishment, and mutilated him, sent him +away with great disgrace. The mother, alarmed at the +confusion which this event caused, and agitated with grief, +breathed nothing but revenge. She therefore went to king +Henry I., and declared with assertions more vindictive than true, +and corroborated by an oath, that her son Mahel was not the son +of Bernard, but of another person with whom she had been secretly +connected. Henry, on account of this oath, or rather +perjury, and swayed more by his inclination than by reason, gave +away her eldest daughter, <a name="page27"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 27</span>whom she owned as the legitimate +child of Bernard, in marriage to Milo Fitz-Walter, <a +name="citation27"></a><a href="#footnote27" +class="citation">[27]</a> constable of Gloucester, with the +honour of Brecheinoc as a portion; and he was afterwards created +earl of Hereford by the empress Matilda, daughter of the said +king. By this wife he had five celebrated warriors; Roger, +Walter, Henry, William, and Mahel; all of whom, by divine +vengeance, or by fatal misfortunes, came to untimely ends; and +yet each of them, except William, succeeded to the paternal +inheritance, but left no issue. Thus this woman (not +deviating from the nature of her sex), in order to satiate her +anger and revenge, with the heavy loss of modesty, and with the +disgrace of infamy, by the same act deprived her son of his +patrimony, and herself of honour. Nor is it wonderful if a +woman follows her innate bad disposition: for it is written in +Ecclesiastes, “I have found one good man out of a thousand, +but not one good woman;” and in Ecclesiasticus, +“There is no head above the head of a serpent; and there is +no wrath above the wrath of a woman;” and again, +“Small is the wickedness of man compared to the wickedness +of woman.” And in the same manner, as we may gather +grapes off thorns, or figs off thistles, Tully, describing the +nature of women, says, “Men, perhaps, for the sake of some +advantage will commit one crime; but woman, to gratify one +inclination, will not scruple to perpetrate all sorts of +wickedness.” Thus Juvenal, speaking of women, +say,</p> +<blockquote><p>“— Nihil est audacior illis<br /> +Deprensis, iram atque animos a crimine sumunt.<br /> +— Mulier sævissima tunc est<br /> +<a name="page28"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 28</span>Cum +stimulos animo pudor admovet.<br /> +— colllige, quod vindicta<br /> +Nemo magis gaudet quam fœmina.”</p> +</blockquote> +<p>But of the five above-mentioned brothers and sons of earl +Milo, the youngest but one, and the last in the inheritance, was +the most remarkable for his inhumanity; he persecuted David II., +bishop of St. David’s, to such a degree, by attacking his +possessions, lands, and vassals, that he was compelled to retire +as an exile from the district of Brecheinoc into England, or to +some other parts of his diocese. Meanwhile, Mahel, being +hospitably entertained by Walter de Clifford, <a +name="citation28a"></a><a href="#footnote28a" +class="citation">[28a]</a> in the castle of Brendlais, <a +name="citation28b"></a><a href="#footnote28b" +class="citation">[28b]</a> the house was by accident burned down, +and he received a mortal blow by a stone falling from the +principal tower on his head: upon which he instantly dispatched +messengers to recal the bishop, and exclaimed with a lamentable +voice, “O, my father and high priest, your saint has taken +most cruel vengeance of me, not waiting the conversion of a +sinner, but hastening his death and overthrow.” +Having often repeated similar expressions, and bitterly lamented +his situation, he thus ended his tyranny and life together; the +first year of his government not having elapsed.</p> +<p>A powerful and noble personage, by name Brachanus, was in +ancient times the ruler of the province of Brecheinoc, and from +him it derived this name. The British histories testify +that he had four-and-twenty daughters, <a name="page29"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 29</span>all of whom, dedicated from their +youth to religious observances, happily ended their lives in +sanctity. There are many churches in Wales distinguished by +their names, one of which, situated on the summit of a hill, near +Brecheinoc, and not far from the castle of Aberhodni, is called +the church of St. Almedda, <a name="citation29a"></a><a +href="#footnote29a" class="citation">[29a]</a> after the name of +the holy virgin, who, refusing there the hand of an earthly +spouse, married the Eternal King, and triumphed in a happy +martyrdom; to whose honour a solemn feast is annually held in the +beginning of August, and attended by a large concourse of people +from a considerable distance, when those persons who labour under +various diseases, through the merits of the Blessed Virgin, +received their wished-for health. The circumstances which +occur at every anniversary appear to me remarkable. You may +see men or girls, now in the church, now in the churchyard, now +in the dance, which is led round the churchyard with a song, on a +sudden falling on the ground as in a trance, then jumping up as +in a frenzy, and representing with their hands and feet, before +the people, whatever work they have unlawfully done on feast +days; you may see one man put his hand to the plough, and +another, as it were, goad on the oxen, mitigating their sense of +labour, by the usual rude song: <a name="citation29b"></a><a +href="#footnote29b" class="citation">[29b]</a> <a +name="page30"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 30</span>one man +imitating the profession of a shoemaker; another, that of a +tanner. Now you may see a girl with a distaff, drawing out +the thread, and winding it again on the spindle; another walking, +and arranging the threads for the web; another, as it were, +throwing the shuttle, and seeming to weave. On being +brought into the church, and led up to the altar with their +oblations, you will be astonished to see them suddenly awakened, +and coming to themselves. Thus, by the divine mercy, which +rejoices in the conversion, not in the death, of sinners, many +persons from the conviction of their senses, are on these feast +days corrected and mended.</p> +<p>This country sufficiently abounds with grain, and if there is +any deficiency, it is amply supplied from the neighbouring parts +of England; it is well stored with pastures, woods, and wild and +domestic animals. River-fish are plentiful, supplied by the +Usk on one side, and by the Wye on the other; each of them +produces salmon and trout; but the Wye abounds most with the +former, the Usk with the latter. The salmon of the Wye are +in season during the winter, those of the Usk in summer; but the +Wye alone produces the fish called umber, <a +name="citation30a"></a><a href="#footnote30a" +class="citation">[30a]</a> the praise of which is celebrated in +the works of Ambrosius, as being found in great numbers in the +rivers near Milan; “What,” says he, “is more +beautiful to behold, more agreeable to smell, or more pleasant to +taste?” The famous lake of Brecheinoc supplies the +courntry with pike, perch, excellent trout, tench, and +eels. A circumstance concerning this lake, which happened a +short time before our days, must not be passed over in +silence. “In the reign of king Henry I., Gruffydd, <a +name="citation30b"></a><a href="#footnote30b" +class="citation">[30b]</a> son of Rhys <a name="page31"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 31</span>ap Tewdwr, held under the king one +comot, namely, the fourth part of the cantred of Caoc, <a +name="citation31"></a><a href="#footnote31" +class="citation">[31]</a> in the cantref Mawr, which, in title +and dignity, was esteemed by the Welsh equal to the southern part +of Wales, called Deheubarth, that is, the right-hand side of +Wales. When Gruffydd, on his return from the king’s +court, passed near this lake, which at that cold season of the +year was covered with water-fowl of various sorts, being +accompanied by Milo, earl of Hereford, and lord of Brecheinoc, +and Payn Fitz-John, lord of Ewyas, who were at that time +secretaries and privy counsellors to the king; earl Milo, wishing +to draw forth from Gruffydd some discourse concerning his innate +nobility, rather jocularly than seriously <a +name="page32"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 32</span>thus +addressed him: “It is an ancient saying in Wales, that if +the natural prince of the country, coming to this lake, shall +order the birds to sing, they will immediately obey +him.” To which Gruffydd, richer in mind than in gold, +(for though his inheritance was diminished, his ambition and +dignity still remained), answered, “Do you therefore, who +now hold the dominion of this land, first give the +command;” but he and Payn having in vain commanded, and +Gruffydd, perceiving that it was necessary for him to do so in +his turn, dismounted from his horse, and falling on his knees +towards the east, as if he had been about to engage in battle, +prostrate on the ground, with his eyes and hands uplifted to +heaven, poured forth devout prayers to the Lord: at length, +rising up, and signing his face and forehead with the figure of +the cross, he thus openly spake: “Almighty God, and Lord +Jesus Christ, who knowest all things, declare here this day thy +power. If thou hast caused me to descend lineally from the +natural princes of Wales, I command these birds in thy name to +declare it;” and immediately the birds, beating the water +with their wings, began to cry aloud, and proclaim him. The +spectators were astonished and confounded; and earl Milo hastily +returning with Payn Fitz-John to court, related this singular +occurrence to the king, who is said to have replied, “By +the death of Christ (an oath he was accustomed to use), it is not +a matter of so much wonder; for although by our great authority +we commit acts of violence and wrong against these people, yet +they are known to be the rightful inheritors of this +land.”</p> +<p>The lake also <a name="citation32"></a><a href="#footnote32" +class="citation">[32]</a> (according to the testimony of the +inhabitants) <a name="page33"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +33</span>is celebrated for its miracles; for, as we have before +observed, it sometimes assumed a greenish hue, so in our days it +has appeared to be tinged with red, not universally, but as if +blood flowed partially through certain veins and small +channels. Moreover it is sometimes seen by the inhabitants +covered and adorned with buildings, pastures, gardens, and +orchards. In the winter, when it is frozen over, and the +surface of the water is converted into a shell of ice, it emits a +horrible sound resembling the moans of many animals collected +together; but this, perhaps, may be occasioned by the sudden +bursting of the shell, and the gradual ebullition of the air +through imperceptible channels. This country is well +sheltered on every side (except the northern) by high mountains; +on the western by those of cantref Bychan; <a +name="citation33a"></a><a href="#footnote33a" +class="citation">[33a]</a> on the southern, by that range, of +which the principal is Cadair Arthur, <a +name="citation33b"></a><a href="#footnote33b" +class="citation">[33b]</a> or the chair of Arthur, so <a +name="page34"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 34</span>called from +two peaks rising up in the form of a chair, and which, from its +lofty situation, is vulgarly ascribed to Arthur, the most +distinguished king of the Britons. A spring of water rises +on the summit of this mountain, deep, but of a square shape, like +a well, and although no stream runs from it, trout are said to be +sometimes found in it.</p> +<p>Being thus sheltered on the south by high mountains, the +cooler breezes protect this district from the heat of the sun, +and, by their natural salubrity, render the climate most +temperate. Towards the east are the mountains of Talgarth +and Ewyas. <a name="citation34a"></a><a href="#footnote34a" +class="citation">[34a]</a> The natives of these parts, +actuated by continual enmities and implacable hatred, are +perpetually engaged in bloody contests. But we leave to +others to describe the great and enormous excesses, which in our +time have been here committed, with regard to marriages, +divorces, and many other circumstances of cruelty and +oppression.</p> +<h2>CHAPTER III<br /> +<span class="GutSmall">EWYAS AND LLANTHONI</span></h2> +<p><span class="smcap">In</span> the deep vale of Ewyas, <a +name="citation34b"></a><a href="#footnote34b" +class="citation">[34b]</a> which is about an arrow-shot broad, +encircled on all sides by lofty mountains, stands <a +name="page35"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 35</span>the church of +Saint John the Baptist, covered with lead, and built of wrought +stone; and, considering the nature of the place, not unhandsomely +constructed, on the very spot where the humble chapel of David, +the archbishop, had formerly stood decorated only with moss and +ivy. A situation truly calculated for religion, and more +adapted to canonical discipline, than all the monasteries of the +British isle. It was founded by two hermits, in honour of +the retired life, far removed from the bustle of mankind, in a +solitary vale watered by the river Hodeni. From Hodeni it +was called Lanhodeni, for Lan signifies an ecclesiastical +place. This derivation may appear far-fetched, for the name +of the place, in Welsh, is Nanthodeni. Nant signifies a +running stream, from whence this place is still called by the +inhabitants Landewi Nanthodeni, <a name="citation35"></a><a +href="#footnote35" class="citation">[35]</a> or the church of +Saint David upon the river Hodeni. The English therefore +corruptly call it Lanthoni, whereas it should either be called +Nanthodeni, that is, the brook of the Hodeni, or Lanhodeni, the +church upon the Hodeni. Owing to its mountainous situation, +the rains are frequent, the winds boisterous, <a +name="page36"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 36</span>and the +clouds in winter almost continual. The air, though heavy, +is healthy; and diseases are so rare, that the brotherhood, when +worn out by long toil and affliction during their residence with +the daughter, retiring to this asylum, and to their +mother’s <a name="citation36a"></a><a href="#footnote36a" +class="citation">[36a]</a> lap, soon regain their long-wished-for +health. For as my Topographical History of Ireland +testifies, in proportion as we proceed to the eastward, the face +of the sky is more pure and subtile, and the air more piercing +and inclement; but as we draw nearer to the westward, the air +becomes more cloudy, but at the same time is more temperate and +healthy. Here the monks, sitting in their cloisters, +enjoying the fresh air, when they happen to look up towards the +horizon, behold the tops of the mountains, as it were, touching +the heavens, and herds of wild deer feeding on their summits: the +body of the sun does not become visible above the heights of the +mountains, even in a clear atmosphere, till about the hour of +prime, or a little before. A place truly fitted for +contemplation, a happy and delightful spot, fully competent, from +its first establishment, to supply all its own wants, had not the +extravagance of English luxury, the pride of a sumptuous table, +the increasing growth of intemperance and ingratitude, added to +the negligence of its patrons and prelates, reduced it from +freedom to servility; and if the step-daughter, no less enviously +than odiously, had not supplanted her mother.</p> +<p>It seems worthy of remark, that all the priors who were +hostile to this establishment, died by divine visitation. +William, <a name="citation36b"></a><a href="#footnote36b" +class="citation">[36b]</a> who first despoiled the place of its +herds and storehouses, being deposed by the fraternity, forfeited +his right of sepulture amongst the priors. Clement <a +name="page37"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 37</span>seemed to +like this place of study and prayer, yet, after the example of +Heli the priest, as he neither reproved nor restrained his +brethren from plunder and other offences, he died by a paralytic +stroke. And Roger, who was more an enemy to this place than +either of his predecessors, and openly carried away every thing +which they had left behind, wholly robbing the church of its +books, ornaments, and privileges, was also struck with a +paralytic affection long before his death, resigned his honours, +and lingered out the remainder of his days in sickness.</p> +<p>In the reign of king Henry I., when the mother church was as +celebrated for her affluence as for her sanctity (two qualities +which are seldom found thus united), the daughter not yet being +in existence (and I sincerely wish she never had been produced), +the fame of so much religion attracted hither Roger, bishop of +Salisbury, who was at that time prime minister; for it is virtue +to love virtue, even in another man, and a great proof of innate +goodness to show a detestation of those vices which hitherto have +not been avoided. When he had reflected with admiration on +the nature of the place, the solitary life of the fraternity, +living in canonical obedience, and serving God without a murmur +or complaint, he returned to the king, and related to him what he +thought most worthy of remark; and after spending the greater +part of the day in the praises of this place, he finished his +panegyric with these words: “Why should I say more? the +whole treasure of the king and his kingdom would not be +sufficient to build such a cloister.” Having held the +minds of the king and the court for a long time in suspense by +this assertion, he at length explained the enigma, by saying that +he alluded to the cloister of mountains, by which this church is +on every side surrounded. But William, a knight, who first +discovered this place, and his companion Ervistus, a priest, +having heard, perhaps, as it is written in the Fathers, according +to the opinion of Jerome, “that the church of Christ <a +name="page38"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 38</span>decreased in +virtues as it increased in riches,” were accustomed often +devoutly to solicit the Lord that this place might never attain +great possessions. They were exceedingly concerned when +this religious foundation began to be enriched by its first lord +and patron, Hugh de Lacy, <a name="citation38"></a><a +href="#footnote38" class="citation">[38]</a> and by the lands and +ecclesiastical benefices conferred upon it by the bounty of +others of the faithful: from their predilection to poverty, they +rejected many offers of manors and churches; and being situated +in a wild spot, they would not suffer the thick and wooded parts +of the valley to be cultivated and levelled, lest they should be +tempted to recede from their heremitical mode of life.</p> +<p>But whilst the establishment of the mother church increased +daily in riches and endowments, availing herself of the hostile +state of the country, a rival daughter sprang up at Gloucester, +under the protection of Milo, earl of Hereford; as if by divine +providence, and through the merits of the saints and prayers of +those holy men (of whom two lie buried before the high altar), it +were destined that the daughter church should be founded in +superfluities, whilst the mother continued in that laudable state +of mediocrity which she had always affected and coveted. +Let the active therefore reside there, the contemplative here; +there the pursuit of terrestrial riches, here the love of +celestial delights; there let them enjoy the concourse of men, +here the presence of angels; there let the powerful of this world +be entertained, here let the poor of Christ be relieved; there, I +say, let human actions and declamations be heard, but here let +reading and prayers be heard only in whispers; there let +opulence, <a name="page39"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +39</span>the parent and nurse of vice, increase with cares, here +let the virtuous and golden mean be all-sufficient. In both +places the canonical discipline instituted by Augustine, which is +now distinguished above all other orders, is observed; for the +Benedictines, when their wealth was increased by the fervour of +charity, and multiplied by the bounty of the faithful, under the +pretext of a bad dispensation, corrupted by gluttony and +indulgence an order which in its original state of poverty was +held in high estimation. The Cistercian order, derived from +the former, at first deserved praise and commendation from its +adhering voluntarily to the original vows of poverty and +sanctity: until ambition, the blind mother of mischief, unable to +fix bounds to prosperity, was introduced; for as Seneca says, +“Too great happiness makes men greedy, nor are their +desires ever so temperate, as to terminate in what is +acquired:” a step is made from great things to greater, and +men having attained what they did not expect, form the most +unbounded hopes; to which the poet Ovid thus alludes.</p> +<blockquote><p>“Luxuriant animi rebus plerumque +secundis,<br /> + Nec facile est æqua commoda mente +pati;”</p> +</blockquote> +<p>And again:</p> +<blockquote><p>“Creverunt opes et opum furiosa cupido,<br +/> + Et cum possideant plurima, plura petunt.”</p> +</blockquote> +<p>And also the poet Horace:</p> +<blockquote><p>“—scilicet improbæ<br /> +Crescunt divitiæ, tamen<br /> + Curtæ nescio quid semper abest rei.<br /> +Crescentem sequitur cura pecuniam<br /> + Majorumque fames.”</p> +</blockquote> +<p>To which purpose the poet Lucan says:</p> +<blockquote><p>“—O vitæ tuta facultas<br /> +Pauperis, angustique lares, o munera nondum<br /> +Intellecta Deûm!”</p> +</blockquote> +<p><a name="page40"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 40</span>And +Petronius:</p> +<blockquote><p>“Non bibit inter aquas nec poma fugacia +carpit<br /> + Tantalus infelix, quem sua vota premunt.<br /> +Divitis hic magni facies erit, omnia late<br /> + Qui tenet, et sicco concoquit ore famem.”</p> +</blockquote> +<p>The mountains are full of herds and horses, the woods well +stored with swine and goats, the pastures with sheep, the plains +with cattle, the arable fields with ploughs; and although these +things in very deed are in great abundance, yet each of them, +from the insatiable nature of the mind, seems too narrow and +scanty. Therefore lands are seized, landmarks removed, +boundaries invaded, and the markets in consequence abound with +merchandise, the courts of justice with law-suits, and the senate +with complaints. Concerning such things, we read in Isaiah, +“Woe unto them that join house to house, that lay field to +field, till there be no place, that they be placed alone in the +midst of the earth.”</p> +<p>If therefore, the prophet inveighs so much against those who +proceed to the boundaries, what would he say to those who go far +beyond them? From these and other causes, the true colour +of religion was so converted into the dye of falsehood, that +manners internally black assumed a fair exterior:</p> +<blockquote><p>“Qui color albus erat, nunc est contrarius +albo.”</p> +</blockquote> +<p>So that the scripture seems to be fulfilled concerning these +men, “Beware of false prophets, who come to you in +sheep’s clothing, but inwardly they are ravenous +wolves.” But I am inclined to think this avidity does +not proceed from any bad intention. For the monks of this +Order (although themselves most abstemious) incessantly exercise, +more than any others, the acts of charity and beneficence towards +the poor and strangers; and because they do not live as others +upon fixed incomes, but depend only on their labour and +forethought for subsistence, they are anxious to obtain lands, +farms, <a name="page41"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 41</span>and +pastures, which may enable them to perform these acts of +hospitality. However, to repress and remove from this +sacred Order the detestable stigma of ambition, I wish they would +sometimes call to mind what is written in Ecclesiasticus, +“Whoso bringeth an offering of the goods of the poor, doth +as one that killeth the son before his father’s +eyes;” and also the sentiment of Gregory, “A good use +does not justify things badly acquired;” and also that of +Ambrose, “He who wrongfully receives, that he may well +dispense, is rather burthened than assisted.” Such +men seem to say with the Apostle, “Let us do evil that good +may come.” For it is written, “Mercy ought to +be of such a nature as may be received, not rejected, which may +purge away sins, not make a man guilty before the Lord, arising +from your own just labours, not those of other men.” +Hear what Solomon says; “Honour the Lord from your just +labours.” What shall they say who have seized upon +other men’s possessions, and exercised charity? +“O Lord! in thy name we have done charitable deeds, we have +fed the poor, clothed the naked, and hospitably received the +stranger:” to whom the Lord will answer; “Ye speak of +what ye have given away, but speak not of the rapine ye have +committed; ye relate concerning those ye have fed, and remember +not those ye have killed.” I have judged it proper to +insert in this place an instance of an answer which Richard, king +of the English, made to Fulke, <a name="citation41"></a><a +href="#footnote41" class="citation">[41]</a> a good and holy man, +by whom <a name="page42"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +42</span>God in these our days has wrought many signs in the +kingdom of France. This man had among other things said to +the king; “You have three daughters, namely, Pride, Luxury, +and Avarice; and as long as they shall remain with you, you can +never expect to be in favour with God.” To which the +king, after a short pause, replied: “I have already given +away those daughters in marriage: Pride to the Templars, Luxury +to the Black Monks, and Avarice to the White.” It is +a remarkable circumstance, or rather a miracle, concerning +Lanthoni, that, although it is on every side surrounded by lofty +mountains, not stony or rocky, but of a soft nature, and covered +with grass, Parian stones are frequently found there, and are +called free-stones, from the facility with which they admit of +being cut and polished; and with these the church is beautifully +built. It is also wonderful, that when, after a diligent +search, all the stones have been removed from the mountains, and +no more can be found, upon another search, a few days afterwards, +they reappear in greater quantities to those who seek them. +With respect to the two Orders, the Cluniac and the Cistercian, +this may be relied upon; although the latter are possessed of +fine buildings, with ample revenues and estates, they will soon +be reduced to poverty and destruction. To the former, on +the contrary, you would allot a barren desert and a solitary +wood; yet in a few years you will find them in possession of +sumptuous churches and houses, and encircled with an extensive +property. The difference of manners (as it appears to me) +causes this contrast. For as without meaning offence to +either party, I shall speak the truth, the one feels the benefits +<a name="page43"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 43</span>of +sobriety, parsimony, and prudence, whilst the other suffers from +the bad effects of gluttony and intemperance: the one, like bees, +collect their stores into a heap, and unanimously agree in the +disposal of one well-regulated purse; the others pillage and +divert to improper uses the largesses which have been collected +by divine assistance, and by the bounties of the faithful; and +whilst each individual consults solely his own interest, the +welfare of the community suffers; since, as Sallust observes, +“Small things increase by concord, and the greatest are +wasted by discord.” Besides, sooner than lessen the +number of one of the thirteen or fourteen dishes which they claim +by right of custom, or even in a time of scarcity or famine +recede in the smallest degree from their accustomed good fare, +they would suffer the richest lands and the best buildings of the +monastery to become a prey to usury, and the numerous poor to +perish before their gates.</p> +<p>The first of these Orders, at a time when there was a +deficiency in grain, with a laudable charity, not only gave away +their flocks and herds, but resigned to the poor one of the two +dishes with which they were always contented. But in these +our days, in order to remove this stain, it is ordained by the +Cistercians, “That in future neither farms nor pastures +shall be purchased; and that they shall be satisfied with those +alone which have been freely and unconditionally bestowed upon +them.” This Order, therefore, being satisfied more +than any other with humble mediocrity, and, if not wholly, yet in +a great degree checking their ambition; and though placed in a +worldly situation, yet avoiding, as much as possible, its +contagion; neither notorious for gluttony or drunkenness, for +luxury or lust; is fearful and ashamed of incurring public +scandal, as will be more fully explained in the book we mean (by +the grace of God) to write concerning the ecclesiastical +Orders.</p> +<p>In these temperate regions I have obtained (according to the +usual expression) a place of dignity, but no great <a +name="page44"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 44</span>omen of +future pomp or riches; and possessing a small residence <a +name="citation44a"></a><a href="#footnote44a" +class="citation">[44a]</a> near the castle of Brecheinoc, well +adapted to literary pursuits, and to the contemplation of +eternity, I envy not the riches of Croesus; happy and contented +with that mediocrity, which I prize far beyond all the perishable +and transitory things of this world. But let us return to +our subject.</p> +<h3>CHAPTER IV<br /> +<span class="GutSmall">THE JOURNEY BY COED GRONO AND +ABERGEVENNI</span></h3> +<p><span class="smcap">From</span> thence <a +name="citation44b"></a><a href="#footnote44b" +class="citation">[44b]</a> we proceeded through the narrow, woody +tract called the bad pass of Coed Grono, leaving the <a +name="page45"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 45</span>noble +monastery of Lanthoni, inclosed by its mountains, on our +left. The castle of Abergevenni is so called from its +situation at the confluence of the river Gevenni with the +Usk.</p> +<p>It happened a short time after the death of king Henry I., +that Richard de Clare, a nobleman of high birth, and lord of +Cardiganshire, passed this way on his journey from England into +Wales, accompanied by Brian de Wallingford, lord of this +province, and many men-at-arms. At the passage of Coed +Grono, <a name="citation45"></a><a href="#footnote45" +class="citation">[45]</a> and at the entrance into the wood, he +dismissed him and his attendants, though much against their will, +and proceeded on his journey unarmed; from too great a +presumption of security, preceded only by a minstrel and a +singer, one accompanying the other on the fiddle. The Welsh +awaiting his arrival, with Iorwerth, brother of Morgan of +Caerleon, at their head, and others of his family, rushed upon +him unawares from the thickets, and killed him and many of his +followers. Thus it appears how incautious and neglectful of +itself is too great presumption; for fear teaches foresight and +caution in prosperity, but audacity is precipitate, and +inconsiderate rashness will not await the advice of the +leader.</p> +<p><a name="page46"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 46</span>A +sermon having been delivered at Abergevenni, <a +name="citation46"></a><a href="#footnote46" +class="citation">[46]</a> and many persons converted to the +cross, a certain nobleman of those parts, named Arthenus, came to +the archbishop, who was proceeding towards the castle of Usk, and +humbly begged pardon for having neglected to meet him +sooner. Being questioned whether he would take the cross, +he replied, “That ought not be done without the advice of +his friends.” The archbishop then asked him, +“Are you not going to consult your wife?” To +which he modestly answered, with a downcast look, “When the +work of a man is to be undertaken, the counsel of a woman ought +not to be asked;” and instantly received the cross from the +archbishop.</p> +<p>We leave to others the relation of those frequent and cruel +excesses which in our times have arisen amongst the inhabitants +of these parts, against the governors of castles, and the +vindictive retaliations of the governors against the +natives. But king Henry II. was the true author, and Ranulf +Poer, sheriff of Hereford, the instrument, of the enormous +cruelties and slaughter perpetrated here in our days, which I +thought better to omit, <a name="page47"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 47</span>lest bad men should be induced to +follow the example; for although temporary advantage may seem to +arise from a base cause, yet, by the balance of a righteous +judge, the punishment of wickedness may be deferred, though not +totally avoided, according to the words of the poet,—</p> +<blockquote><p>“Non habet eventus sordida præda +bonos.”</p> +</blockquote> +<p>For after seven years of peace and tranquillity, the sons and +grandsons of the deceased, having attained the age of manhood, +took advantage of the absence of the lord of the castle +(Abergevenni), and, burning with revenge, concealed themselves, +with no inconsiderable force during the night, within the woody +foss of the castle. One of them, name Sisillus (Sitsylt) +son of Eudaf, on the preceding day said rather jocularly to the +constable, “Here will we enter this night,” pointing +out to him a certain angle in the wall where it seemed the +lowest; but since</p> +<blockquote><p>“—Ridendo dicere verum<br /> +Quis vetat?”</p> +</blockquote> +<p>and</p> +<blockquote><p>“—fas est et ab hoste +doceri,”</p> +</blockquote> +<p>the constable and his household watched all night under arms, +till at length, worn out by fatigue, they all retired to rest on +the appearance of daylight, upon which the enemy attacked the +walls with scaling-ladders, at the very place that had been +pointed out. The constable and his wife were taken +prisoners, with many others, a few persons only escaping, who had +sheltered themselves in the principal tower. With the +exception of this stronghold, the enemy violently seized and +burned everything; and thus, by the righteous judgment of God, +the crime was punished in the very place where it had been +committed. A short time after the taking of this fortress, +when the aforesaid sheriff was building a castle <a +name="page48"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 48</span>at +Landinegat, <a name="citation48"></a><a href="#footnote48" +class="citation">[48]</a> near Monmouth, with the assistance of +the army he had brought from Hereford, he was attacked at break +of day, when</p> +<blockquote><p>“Tythoni croceum linquens Aurora +cubile”</p> +</blockquote> +<p>was only beginning to divest herself of the shades of night, +by the young men from Gwent and the adjacent parts, with the +descendants of those who had been slain. Through aware of +this premeditated attack, and prepared and drawn up in battle +array, they were nevertheless repulsed within their +intrenchments, and the sheriff, together with nine of the chief +men of Hereford, and many others, were pierced to death with +lances. It is remarkable that, although Ranulf, besides +many other mortal wounds, had the veins and arteries of his neck +and his windpipe separated with a sword, he made signs for a +priest, and from the merit of his past life, and the honour and +veneration he had shewn to those chosen into the sacred order of +Christ, he was confessed, and received extreme unction before he +died. And, indeed, many events concur to prove that, as +those who respect the priesthood, in their latter days enjoy the +satisfaction of friendly intercourse, so do their revilers and +accusers often die without that consolation. William de +Braose, who was not the author of the crime we have preferred +passing over in silence, but the executioner, or, rather, not the +preventer of its execution, while the murderous bands were +fulfilling the orders they had received, was precipitated into a +deep foss, and being taken by the enemy, was drawn forth, and +only by a sudden effort of his own troops, and by divine mercy, +escaped uninjured. Hence it is evident that he who offends +in a less degree, and unwillingly permits a thing to be done, is +more mildly punished than he who adds counsel and authority to +his act. Thus, in the sufferings of Christ, Judas was <a +name="page49"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 49</span>punished with +hanging, the Jews with destruction and banishment, and Pilate +with exile. But the end of the king, who assented to and +ordered this treachery, sufficiently manifested in what manner, +on account of this and many other enormities he had committed (as +in the book “De Instructione Principis,” by +God’s guidance, we shall set forth), he began with +accumulated ignominy, sorrow, and confusion, to suffer punishment +in this world. <a name="citation49a"></a><a href="#footnote49a" +class="citation">[49a]</a></p> +<p>It seems worthy of remark, that the people of what is called +Venta <a name="citation49b"></a><a href="#footnote49b" +class="citation">[49b]</a> are more accustomed to war, more +famous for valour, and more expert in archery, than those of any +other part of Wales. The following examples prove the truth +of this assertion. In the last capture of the aforesaid +castle, which happened in our days, two soldiers passing over a +bridge to take refuge in a tower built on a mound of earth, the +Welsh, taking them in the rear, penetrated with their arrows the +oaken portal of the tower, which was four fingers thick; in +memory of which circumstance, the arrows were preserved in the +gate. William de Braose also testifies that one of his +soldiers, in a conflict with the Welsh, was wounded by an arrow, +which passed through his thigh and the armour with which it was +cased on both sides, and, through that part of the saddle which +is called the <i>alva</i>, mortally wounded the horse. +Another soldier had his hip, equally sheathed in armour, +penetrated by an arrow quite to the saddle, and on turning his +horse round, received a similar wound on the opposite hip, which +fixed him on both sides of his seat. What more could be +expected from a balista? Yet the bows used by this people +are not made of horn, <a name="page50"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 50</span>ivory, or yew, but of wild elm; +unpolished, rude, and uncouth, but stout; not calculated to shoot +an arrow to a great distance, but to inflict very severe wounds +in close fight.</p> +<p>But let us again return to our Itinerary.</p> +<h3>CHAPTER V<br /> +<span class="GutSmall">OF THE PROGRESS BY THE CASTLE OF USK AND +THE TOWN OF CAERLEON</span></h3> +<p><span class="smcap">At</span> the castle of Usk, a multitude +of persons influenced by the archbishop’s sermon, and by +the exhortations of the good and worthy William bishop of Landaf, +<a name="citation50a"></a><a href="#footnote50a" +class="citation">[50a]</a> who faithfully accompanied us through +his diocese, were signed with the cross; Alexander archdeacon of +Bangor <a name="citation50b"></a><a href="#footnote50b" +class="citation">[50b]</a> acting as interpreter to the +Welsh. It is remarkable that many of the most notorious +murderers, thieves, and robbers of the neighbourhood were here +converted, to the astonishment of the spectators. Passing +from thence through Caerleon and leaving far on our left hand the +castle of Monmouth, and the noble forest of Dean, situated on the +other side of the Wye and on this side the Severn, and which +amply supplies Gloucester with iron and venison, we spent the +night at Newport, having crossed the river Usk three times. <a +name="citation50c"></a><a href="#footnote50c" +class="citation">[50c]</a> Caerleon means the city of +Legions, Caer, in the British language, signifying a city or +camp, for there the Roman legions, sent into this island, were +accustomed to winter, and from this circumstance it was styled +the city of legions. This city was of undoubted <a +name="page51"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 51</span>antiquity, +and handsomely built of masonry, with courses of bricks, by the +Romans. Many vestiges of its former splendour may yet be +seen; immense palaces, formerly ornamented with gilded roofs, in +imitation of Roman magnificence, inasmuch as they were first +raised by the Roman princes, and embellished with splendid +buildings; a tower of prodigious size, remarkable hot baths, +relics of temples, and theatres, all inclosed within fine walls, +parts of which remain standing. You will find on all sides, +both within and without the circuit of the walls, subterraneous +buildings, aqueducts, underground passages; and what I think +worthy of notice, stoves contrived with wonderful art, to +transmit the heat insensibly through narrow tubes passing up the +side walls.</p> +<p>Julius and Aaron, after suffering martyrdom, were buried in +this city, and had each a church dedicated to him. After +Albanus and Amphibalus, they were esteemed the chief protomartyrs +of Britannia Major. In ancient times there were three fine +churches in this city: one dedicated to Julius the martyr, graced +with a choir of nuns; another to Aaron, his associate, and +ennobled with an order of canons; and the third distinguished as +the metropolitan of Wales. Amphibalus, the instructor of +Albanus in the true faith, was born in this place. This +city is well situated on the river Usk, navigable to the sea, and +adorned with woods and meadows. The Roman ambassadors here +received their audience at the court of the great king Arthur; +and here also, the archbishop Dubricius ceded his honours to +David of Menevia, the metropolitan see being translated from this +place to Menevia, according to the prophecy of Merlin +Ambrosius. “Menevia pallio urbis Legionum +induetur.” “Menevia shall be invested with the +pall of the city of Legions.”</p> +<p>Not far hence is a rocky eminence, impending over the Severn, +called by the English Gouldcliffe <a name="citation51"></a><a +href="#footnote51" class="citation">[51]</a> or golden rock, <a +name="page52"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 52</span>because from +the reflections of the sun’s rays it assumes a bright +golden colour:</p> +<blockquote><p>“Nec mihi de facili fieri persuasio +posset,<br /> +Quod frustra tantum dederit natura nito rem<br /> +Saxis, quodque suo fuerit flos hic sine fructu.”</p> +</blockquote> +<p>Nor can I be easily persuaded that nature hath given such +splendour to the rocks in vain, and that this flower should be +without fruit, if any one would take the pains to penetrate +deeply into the bowels of the earth; if any one, I say, would +extract honey from the rock, and oil from the stone. Indeed +many riches of nature lie concealed through inattention, which +the diligence of posterity will bring to light; for, as necessity +first taught the ancients to discover the conveniences of life, +so industry, and a greater acuteness of intellect, have laid open +many things to the moderns; as the poet says, assigning two +causes for these discoveries,</p> +<blockquote><p>“—labor omnia vincit<br /> +Improbus, et duris urgens in rebus egestas.”</p> +</blockquote> +<p>It is worthy of observation, that there lived in the +neighbourhood of this City of Legions, in our time, a Welshman +named Melerius, who, under the following circumstances, acquired +the knowledge of future and occult events. Having, on a +certain night, namely that of Palm Sunday, met a damsel whom he +had long loved, in a pleasant and convenient place, while he was +indulging in her embraces, suddenly, instead of a beautiful girl, +he found in his arms a hairy, rough, and hideous creature, the +sight of which deprived him of his senses, and he became +mad. After remaining many years in this condition, he was +restored to health in the church of St. David’s, through +the merits of its saints. But having always an +extraordinary familiarity with unclean spirits, <a +name="page53"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 53</span>by seeing +them, knowing them, talking with them, and calling each by his +proper name, he was enabled, through their assistance, to foretel +future events. He was, indeed, often deceived (as they are) +with respect to circumstances at a great distance of time or +place, but was less mistaken in affairs which were likely to +happen nearer, or within the space of a year. The spirits +appeared to him, usually on foot, equipped as hunters, with horns +suspended from their necks, and truly as hunters, not of animals, +but of souls. He particularly met them near monasteries and +monastic cells; for where rebellion exists, there is the greatest +need of armies and strength. He knew when any one spoke +falsely in his presence, for he saw the devil, as it were, +leaping and exulting upon the tongue of the liar. If he +looked on a book faultily or falsely written, or containing a +false passage, although wholly illiterate, he would point out the +place with his finger. Being questioned how he could gain +such knowledge, he said that he was directed by the demon’s +finger to the place. In the same manner, entering into the +dormitory of a monastery, he indicated the bed of any monk not +sincerely devoted to religion. He said, that the spirit of +gluttony and surfeit was in every respect sordid; but that the +spirit of luxury and lust was more beautiful than others in +appearance, though in fact most foul. If the evil spirits +oppressed him too much, the Gospel of St. John was placed on his +bosom, when, like birds, they immediately vanished; but when that +book was removed, and the History of the Britons, by Geoffrey +Arthur, <a name="citation53"></a><a href="#footnote53" +class="citation">[53]</a> was substituted in its place, they +instantly reappeared in greater numbers, and remained a longer +time than usual on his body and on the book.</p> +<p>It is worthy of remark, that Barnabas placed the Gospel of St. +Matthew upon sick persons, and they were healed; from which, as +well as from the foregoing circumstance, it appears how great a +dignity and reverence is due to the sacred books of the gospel, +and with what danger and <a name="page54"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 54</span>risk of damnation every one who +swears falsely by them, deviates from the paths of truth. +The fall of Enoch, abbot of Strata Marcella, <a +name="citation54"></a><a href="#footnote54" +class="citation">[54]</a> too well known in Wales, was revealed +to many the day after it happened, by Melerius, who, being asked +how he knew this circumstance, said, that a demon came to him +disguised as a hunter, and, exulting in the prospect of such a +victory, foretold the ruin of the abbot, and explained in what +manner he would make him run away with a nun from the +monastery. The end in view was probably the humiliation and +correction of the abbot, as was proved from his shortly returning +home so humbled and amended, that he scarcely could be said to +have erred. Seneca says, “He falls not badly, who +rises stronger from his fall.” Peter was more +strenuous after his denial of Christ, and Paul after being +stoned; since, where sin abounds, there will grace also +superabound. Mary Magdalen was strengthened after her +frailty. He secretly revealed to Canon, the good and +religious abbot of Alba-domus, his opinion of a certain woman +whom he had seen; upon which the holy man confessed, with tears +in his eyes, his predilection for her, and received from three +priests the discipline of incontinence. For as that long +and experienced subtle enemy, by arguing from certain conjectural +signs, may foretell future by past events, so by insidious +treachery and contrivance, added to exterior appearances, he may +sometimes be able to discover the interior workings of the +mind.</p> +<p>At the same time there was in Lower Gwent a demon <a +name="page55"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 55</span>incubus, who, +from his love for a certain young woman, and frequenting the +place where she lived, often conversed with men, and frequently +discovered hidden things and future events. Melerius being +interrogated concerning him, said he knew him well, and mentioned +his name. He affirmed that unclean spirits conversed with +mankind before war, or any great internal disturbance, which was +shortly afterwards proved, by the destruction of the province by +Howel, son of Iorwerth of Caerleon. At the same time, when +king Henry II., having taken the king of Scotland prisoner, had +restored peace to his kingdom, Howel, fearful of the royal +revenge for the war he had waged, was relieved from his +difficulties by these comfortable words of Melerius: “Fear +not,” says he, “Howel, the wrath of the king, since +he must go into other parts. An important city which he +possesses beyond sea is now besieged by the king of France, on +which account he will postpone every other business, and hasten +thither with all possible expedition.” Three days +afterwards, Howel received advice that this event had really come +to pass, owing to the siege of the city of Rouen. He +forewarned also Howel of the betraying of his castle at Usk, a +long time before it happened, and informed him that he should be +wounded, but not mortally; and that he should escape alive from +the town. In this alone he was deceived, for he soon after +died of the same wound. Thus does that archenemy favour his +friends for a time, and thus does he at last reward them.</p> +<p>In all these singular events it appears to me most wonderful +that he saw those spirits so plainly with his carnal eyes, +because spirits cannot be discerned by the eyes of mortals, +unless they assume a corporeal substance; but if in order to be +seen they had assumed such a substance, how could they remain +unperceived by other persons who were present? Perhaps they +were seen by such a miraculous vision as when king Balthazar saw +the hand of one writing on the wall, “Mane, Techel, +Phares,” <a name="page56"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +56</span>that is, weighed, numbered, divided; who in the same +night lost both his kingdom and his life. But Cambria well +knows how in these districts, from a blind desire of dominion, a +total dissolution of the endearing ties of consanguinity, and a +bad and depraved example diffused throughout the country, good +faith has been so shamefully perverted and abused.</p> +<h3>CHAPTER VI<br /> +<span class="GutSmall">NEWPORT AND CAERDYF</span></h3> +<p><span class="smcap">At</span> Newport, where the river Usk, +descending from its original source in Cantref Bachan, falls into +the sea, many persons were induced to take the cross. +Having passed the river Remni, we approached the noble castle of +Caerdyf, <a name="citation56a"></a><a href="#footnote56a" +class="citation">[56a]</a> situated on the banks of the river +Taf. In the neighbourhood of Newport, which is in the +district of Gwentluc, <a name="citation56b"></a><a +href="#footnote56b" class="citation">[56b]</a> there is a small +stream called Nant Pencarn, <a name="citation56c"></a><a +href="#footnote56c" class="citation">[56c]</a> passable only at +certain fords, not so much owing to the depth of its waters, as +from the hollowness of its channel and muddy bottom. The +public road led formerly to a ford, called Ryd Pencarn, that is, +the ford <a name="page57"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +57</span>under the head of a rock, from Rhyd, which in the +British language signifies a ford, Pen, the head, and Cam, a +rock; of which place Merlin Sylvester had thus prophesied: +“Whenever you shall see a mighty prince with a freckled +face make an hostile irruption into the southern part of Britain, +should he cross the ford of Pencarn, then know ye, that the force +of Cambria shall be brought low.” Now it came to pass +in our times, that king Henry II. took up arms against Rhys, the +son of Gruffydd, and directed his march through the southern part +of Wales towards Caermardyn. On the day he intended to pass +over Nant Pentcarn, the old Britons of the neighbourhood watched +his approach towards the ford with the utmost solicitude; +knowing, since he was both mighty and freckled, that if the +passage of the destined ford was accomplished, the prophecy +concerning him would undoubtedly be fulfilled. When the +king had followed the road leading to a more modern ford of the +river (the old one spoken of in the prophecy having been for a +long time in disuse), and was preparing to pass over, the pipers +and trumpeters, called Cornhiriet, from <i>hir</i>, long, and +<i>cornu</i>, a horn, began to sound their instruments on the +opposite bank, in honour of the king. The king’s +horse, startling at the wild, unusual noise, refused to obey the +spur, and enter the water; upon which, the king, gathering up the +reins, hastened, in violent wrath, to the ancient ford, which he +rapidly passed; and the Britons returned to their homes, alarmed +and dismayed at the destruction which seemed to await them. +An extraordinary circumstance occurred likewise at the castle of +Caerdyf. William earl of Gloucester, son of earl Robert, <a +name="citation57"></a><a href="#footnote57" +class="citation">[57]</a> who, besides that castle, <a +name="page58"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 58</span>possessed by +hereditary right all the province of Gwladvorgan, <a +name="citation58a"></a><a href="#footnote58a" +class="citation">[58a]</a> that is, the land of Morgan, had a +dispute with one of his dependants, whose name was Ivor the +Little, being a man of short stature, but of great courage. +This man was, after the manner of the Welsh, owner of a tract of +mountainous and woody country, of the whole, or a part of which, +the earl endeavoured to deprive him. At that time the +castle of Caerdyf was surrounded with high walls, guarded by one +hundred and twenty men-at-arms, a numerous body of archers, and a +strong watch. The city also contained many stipendiary +soldiers; yet, in defiance of all these precautions of security, +Ivor, in the dead of night, secretly scaled the walls, and, +seizing the count and countess, with their only son, carried them +off into the woods, and did not release them until he had +recovered everything that had been unjustly taken from him, and +received a compensation of additional property; for, as the poet +observes,</p> +<blockquote><p>“Spectandum est semper ne magna injuria +fiat<br /> +Fortibus et miseris; tollas licet omne quod usquam est<br /> +Argenti atque auri, spoliatis arma supersunt.”</p> +</blockquote> +<p>In this same town of Caerdyf, king Henry II., on his return +from Ireland, the first Sunday after Easter, passed the +night. In the morning, having heard mass, he remained at +his devotions till every one had quitted the chapel of St. +Piranus. <a name="citation58b"></a><a href="#footnote58b" +class="citation">[58b]</a> As he mounted his horse at the +<a name="page59"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 59</span>door, a +man of a fair complexion, with a round tonsure and meagre +countenance, tall, and about forty years of age, habited in a +white robe falling down to his naked feet, thus addressed him in +the Teutonic tongue: “God hold the, cuing,” which +signifies, “May God protect you, king;” and +proceeded, in the same language, “Christ and his Holy +Mother, John the Baptist, and the Apostle Peter salute thee, and +command thee strictly to prohibit throughout thy whole dominions +every kind of buying or selling on Sundays, and not to suffer any +work to be done on those days, except such as relates to the +preparation of daily food; that due attention may be paid to the +performance of the divine offices. If thou dost this, all +thy undertakings shall be successful, and thou shalt lead a happy +life.” The king, in French, desired Philip de +Mercros, <a name="citation59"></a><a href="#footnote59" +class="citation">[59]</a> who held the reins of his horse, to ask +the rustic if he had dreamt this? and when the soldier explained +to him the king’s question in English, he replied in the +same language he had before used, “Whether I have dreamt it +or not, observe what day this is (addressing himself to the king, +not to the interpreter), and unless thou shalt do so, and quickly +amend thy life, before the expiration of one year, thou shalt +hear such things concerning what thou lovest best in this world, +and shalt thereby be so much troubled, that thy disquietude shall +continue to thy life’s end.” The king, spurring +his horse, proceeded a little way towards the gate, when, +stopping suddenly, he ordered his attendants to call the good man +back. The soldier, and a young man named William, the only +persons who remained <a name="page60"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 60</span>with the king, accordingly called +him, and sought him in vain in the chapel, and in all the inns of +the city. The king, vexed that he had not spoken more to +him, waited alone a long time, while other persons went in search +of him; and when he could not be found, pursued his journey over +the bridge of Remni to Newport. The fatal prediction came +to pass within the year, as the man had threatened; for the +king’s three sons, Henry, the eldest, and his brothers, +Richard of Poitou, and Geoffrey, count of Britany, in the +following Lent, deserted to Louis king of France, which caused +the king greater uneasiness than he had ever before experienced; +and which, by the conduct of some one of his sons, was continued +till the time of his decease. This monarch, through divine +mercy (for God is more desirous of the conversion than the +destruction of a sinner), received many other admonitions and +reproofs about this time, and shortly before his death; all of +which, being utterly incorrigible, he obstinately and obdurately +despised, as will be more fully set forth (by the favour of God) +in my book, “de Principis Instructione.”</p> +<p>Not far from Caerdyf is a small island situated near the shore +of the Severn, called Barri, from St. Baroc <a +name="citation60"></a><a href="#footnote60" +class="citation">[60]</a> who formerly lived there, and whose +remains are deposited in a chapel overgrown with ivy, having been +<a name="page61"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +61</span>transferred to a coffin. From hence a noble +family, of the maritime parts of South Wales, who owned this +island and the adjoining estates, received the name of de +Barri. It is remarkable that, in a rock near the entrance +of the island, there is a small cavity, to which, if the ear is +applied, a noise is heard like that of smiths at work, the +blowing of bellows, strokes of hammers, grinding of tools, and +roaring of furnaces; and it might easily be imagined that such +noises, which are continued at the ebb and flow of the tides, +were occasioned by the influx of the sea under the cavities of +the rocks.</p> +<h3>CHAPTER VII<br /> +<span class="GutSmall">THE SEE OF LANDAF AND MONASTERY OF MARGAN, +AND THE REMARKABLE THINGS IN THOSE PARTS</span></h3> +<p><span class="smcap">On</span> the following morning, the +business of the cross being publicly proclaimed at Landaf, the +English standing on one side, and the Welsh on the other, many +persons of each nation took the cross, and we remained there that +night with William bishop of that place, <a +name="citation61a"></a><a href="#footnote61a" +class="citation">[61a]</a> a discreet and good man. The +word Landaf <a name="citation61b"></a><a href="#footnote61b" +class="citation">[61b]</a> signifies the church situated upon the +river Taf, and is now called the church of St. Teileau, formerly +bishop of that see. The archbishop having celebrated mass +early in the morning, before the high altar of the cathedral, we +immediately pursued our journey by the little cell of Ewenith <a +name="citation61c"></a><a href="#footnote61c" +class="citation">[61c]</a> to the <a name="page62"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 62</span>noble Cistercian monastery of Margan. +<a name="citation62"></a><a href="#footnote62" +class="citation">[62]</a> This monastery, under the +direction of Conan, a learned and prudent abbot, was at this time +more celebrated for its charitable deeds than any other of that +order in Wales. On this account, it is an undoubted fact, +that, as a reward for that abundant charity which the monastery +had always, in times of need, exercised towards strangers and +poor persons, in a season of approaching famine, their corn and +provisions were perceptibly, by divine assistance, increased, +like the widow’s cruise of oil by the means of the prophet +Elijah. About the time of its foundation, a young man of +those parts, by birth a Welshman, having claimed and endeavoured +to apply to his own use certain lands which had been given to the +monastery, by the instigation of the devil set on fire the best +barn belonging to the monks, which was filled with corn; but, +immediately becoming mad, he ran about the country in a +distracted state, nor ceased raving until he was seized by his +parents and bound. Having burst his bonds, and tired out +his keepers, he came the next morning to the gate of the +monastery, incessantly howling out that he was inwardly burnt by +the influence of the monks, and thus in a few days expired, +uttering the most miserable complaints. It happened also, +that a young man was struck by another in the guests’ hall; +but on the following day, by divine vengeance, the aggressor was, +in the presence of the fraternity, killed by an enemy, and his +lifeless body was laid out in the same spot in the hall where the +sacred house had been violated. In our time too, in a +period of scarcity, while great multitudes of poor were daily +crowding before the gates for relief, <a name="page63"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 63</span>by the unanimous consent of the +brethren, a ship was sent to Bristol to purchase corn for +charitable purposes. The vessel, delayed by contrary winds, +and not returning (but rather affording an opportunity for the +miracle), on the very day when there would have been a total +deficiency of corn, both for the poor and the convent, a field +near the monastery was found suddenly to ripen, more than a month +before the usual time of harvest: thus, divine Providence +supplied the brotherhood and the numerous poor with sufficient +nourishment until autumn. By these and other signs of +virtues, the place accepted by God began to be generally esteemed +and venerated.</p> +<p>It came to pass also in our days, during the period when the +four sons of Caradoc son of Iestin, and nephews of prince Rhys by +his sister, namely, Morgan, Meredyth, Owen, and Cadwallon, bore +rule for their father in those parts, that Cadwallon, through +inveterate malice, slew his brother Owen. But divine +vengeance soon overtook him; for on his making a hostile attack +on a certain castle, he was crushed to pieces by the sudden fall +of its walls: and thus, in the presence of a numerous body of his +own and his brother’s forces, suffered the punishment which +his barbarous and unnatural conduct had so justly merited.</p> +<p>Another circumstance which happened here deserves +notice. A greyhound belonging to the aforesaid Owen, large, +beautiful, and curiously spotted with a variety of colours, +received seven wounds from arrows and lances, in the defence of +his master, and on his part did much injury to the enemy and +assassins. When his wounds were healed, he was sent to king +Henry II. by William earl of Gloucester, in testimony of so great +and extraordinary a deed. A dog, of all animals, is most +attached to man, and most easily distinguishes him; sometimes, +when deprived of his master, he refuses to live, and in his +master’s defence is bold enough to brave death; ready, +therefore, to die, either with or for his master. <a +name="page64"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 64</span>I do not +think it superfluous to insert here an example which Suetonius +gives in his book on the nature of animals, and which Ambrosius +also relates in his Exameron. “A man, accompanied by +a dog, was killed in a remote part of the city of Antioch, by a +soldier, for the sake of plunder. The murderer, concealed +by the darkness of the morning, escaped into another part of the +city; the corpse lay unburied; a large concourse of people +assembled; and the dog, with bitter howlings, lamented his +master’s fate. The murderer, by chance, passed that +way, and, in order to prove his innocence, mingled with the crowd +of spectators, and, as if moved by compassion, approached the +body of the deceased. The dog, suspending for a while his +moans, assumed the arms of revenge; rushed upon the man, and +seized him, howling at the same time in so dolorous a manner, +that all present shed tears. It was considered as a proof +against the murderer, that the dog seized him from amongst so +many, and would not let him go; and especially, as neither the +crime of hatred, envy, or injury, could possibly, in this case, +be urged against the dog. On account, therefore, of such a +strong suspicion of murder (which the soldier constantly denied), +it was determined that the truth of the matter should be tried by +combat. The parties being assembled in a field, with a +crowd of people around, the dog on one side, and the soldier, +armed with a stick of a cubit’s length, on the other, the +murderer was at length overcome by the victorious dog, and +suffered an ignominious death on the common gallows.”</p> +<p>Pliny and Solinus relate that a certain king, who was very +fond of dogs, and addicted to hunting, was taken and imprisoned +by his enemies, and in a most wonderful manner liberated, without +any assistance from his friends, by a pack of dogs, who had +spontaneously sequestered themselves in the mountainous and woody +regions, and from thence committed many atrocious acts of +depredation on the neighbouring herds and flocks. I shall +take this opportunity of mentioning what from <a +name="page65"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 65</span>experience +and ocular testimony I have observed respecting the nature of +dogs. A dog is in general sagacious, but particularly with +respect to his master; for when he has for some time lost him in +a crowd, he depends more upon his nose than upon his eyes; and, +in endeavouring to find him, he first looks about, and then +applies his nose, for greater certainty, to his clothes, as if +nature had placed all the powers of infallibility in that +feature. The tongue of a dog possesses a medicinal quality; +the wolf’s, on the contrary, a poisonous: the dog heals his +wounds by licking them, the wolf, by a similar practice, infects +them; and the dog, if he has received a wound in his neck or +head, or any part of his body where he cannot apply his tongue, +ingeniously makes use of his hinder foot as a conveyance of the +healing qualities to the parts affected.</p> +<h3>CHAPTER VIII<br /> +<span class="GutSmall">PASSAGE OF THE RIVERS AVON AND +NETH—AND OF ABERTAWE AND GOER</span></h3> +<p><span class="smcap">Continuing</span> our journey, <a +name="citation65"></a><a href="#footnote65" +class="citation">[65]</a> not far from Margan, where the +alternate vicissitudes of a sandy shore and the tide commence, we +forded over the river Avon, having been considerably delayed by +the ebbing of the sea; and under the guidance of Morgan, eldest +son of Caradoc, proceeded along the sea-shore towards the river +Neth, which, on account of its quicksands, is the most dangerous +and inaccessible river in South Wales. A pack-horse +belonging <a name="page66"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +66</span>to the author, which had proceeded by the lower way near +the sea, although in the midst of many others, was the only one +which sunk down into the abyss, but he was at last, with great +difficulty, extricated, and not without some damage done to the +baggage and books. Yet, although we had Morgan, the prince +of that country, as our conductor, we did not reach the river +without great peril, and some severe falls; for the alarm +occasioned by this unusual kind of road, made us hasten our steps +over the quicksands, in opposition to the advice of our guide, +and fear quickened our pace; whereas, through these difficult +passages, as we there learned, the mode of proceeding should be +with moderate speed. But as the fords of that river +experience a change by every monthly tide, and cannot be found +after violent rains and floods, we did not attempt the ford, but +passed the river in a boat, leaving the monastery of Neth <a +name="citation66"></a><a href="#footnote66" +class="citation">[66]</a> on our right hand, approaching again to +the district of St. David’s, and leaving the diocese of +Landaf (which we had entered at Abergevenny) behind us.</p> +<p>It happened in our days that David II., bishop of St. +David’s, passing this way, and finding the ford agitated by +a recent storm, a chaplain of those parts, named Rotherch Falcus, +being conversant in the proper method of crossing these rivers, +undertook, at the desire of the bishop, the dangerous task of +trying the ford. Having mounted a large and powerful horse, +which had been <a name="page67"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +67</span>selected from the whole train for this purpose, he +immediately crossed the ford, and fled with great rapidity to the +neighbouring woods, nor could he be induced to return until the +suspension which he had lately incurred was removed, and a full +promise of security and indemnity obtained; the horse was then +restored to one party, and his service to the other.</p> +<p>Entering the province called Goer, <a +name="citation67a"></a><a href="#footnote67a" +class="citation">[67a]</a> we spent the night at the castle of +Sweynsei, <a name="citation67b"></a><a href="#footnote67b" +class="citation">[67b]</a> which in Welsh is called Abertawe, or +the fall of the river Tawe into the sea. The next morning, +the people being assembled after mass, and many having been +induced to take the cross, an aged man of that district, named +Cador, thus addressed the archbishop: “My lord, if I now +enjoyed my former strength, and the vigour of youth, no alms +should ransom me, no desire of inactivity restrain me, from +engaging in the laudable undertaking you preach; but since my +weak age and the injuries of time deprive me of this desirable +benefit (for approaching years bring with them many comforts, +which those that are passed take away), if I cannot, owing to the +infirmity of my body, attain a full merit, yet suffer me, by +giving a tenth of all I possess, to attain a half.” +Then falling down at the feet of the archbishop, he deposited in +his hands, for <a name="page68"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +68</span>the service of the cross, the tenth of his estate, +weeping bitterly, and intreating from him the remission of one +half of the enjoined penance. After a short time he +returned, and thus continued: “My lord, if the will directs +the action, and is itself, for the most part, considered as the +act, and as I have a full and firm inclination to undertake this +journey, I request a remission of the remaining part of the +penance, and in addition to my former gift, I will equal the sum +from the residue of my tenths.” The archbishop, +smiling at his devout ingenuity, embraced him with +admiration.</p> +<p>On the same night, two monks, who waited in the +archbishop’s chamber, conversing about the occurrences of +their journey, and the dangers of the road, one of them said +(alluding to the wildness of the country), “This is a hard +province;” the other (alluding to the quicksands), wittily +replied, “Yet yesterday it was found too soft.”</p> +<p>A short time before our days, a circumstance worthy of note +occurred in these parts, which Elidorus, a priest, most +strenuously affirmed had befallen himself. When a youth of +twelve years, and learning his letters, since, as Solomon says, +“The root of learning is bitter, although the fruit is +sweet,” in order to avoid the discipline and frequent +stripes inflicted on him by his preceptor, he ran away, and +concealed himself under the hollow bank of a river. After +fasting in that situation for two days, two little men of pigmy +stature appeared to him, saying, “If you will come with us, +we will lead you into a country full of delights and +sports.” Assenting and rising up, he followed his +guides through a path, at first subterraneous and dark, into a +most beautiful country, adorned with rivers and meadows, woods +and plains, but obscure, and not illuminated with the full light +of the sun. All the days were cloudy, and the nights +extremely dark, on account of the absence of the moon and +stars. The boy was brought before the king, and introduced +to him in the presence of the court; who, having examined him <a +name="page69"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 69</span>for a long +time, delivered him to his son, who was then a boy. These +men were of the smallest stature, but very well proportioned in +their make; they were all of a fair complexion, with luxuriant +hair falling over their shoulders like that of women. They +had horses and greyhounds adapted to their size. They +neither ate flesh nor fish, but lived on milk diet, made up into +messes with saffron. They never took an oath, for they +detested nothing so much as lies. As often as they returned +from our upper hemisphere, they reprobated our ambition, +infidelities, and inconstancies; they had no form of public +worship, being strict lovers and reverers, as it seemed, of +truth.</p> +<p>The boy frequently returned to our hemisphere, sometimes by +the way he had first gone, sometimes by another: at first in +company with other persons, and afterwards alone, and made +himself known only to his mother, declaring to her the manners, +nature, and state of that people. Being desired by her to +bring a present of gold, with which that region abounded, he +stole, while at play with the king’s son, the golden ball +with which he used to divert himself, and brought it to his +mother in great haste; and when he reached the door of his +father’s house, but not unpursued, and was entering it in a +great hurry, his foot stumbled on the threshold, and falling down +into the room where his mother was sitting, the two pigmies +seized the ball which had dropped from his hand, and departed, +shewing the boy every mark of contempt and derision. On +recovering from his fall, confounded with shame, and execrating +the evil counsel of his mother, he returned by the usual track to +the subterraneous road, but found no appearance of any passage, +though he searched for it on the banks of the river for nearly +the space of a year. But since those calamities are often +alleviated by time, which reason cannot mitigate, and length of +time alone blunts the edge of our afflictions, and puts an end to +many evils, the youth having been brought back by his friends and +mother, and <a name="page70"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +70</span>restored to his right way of thinking, and to his +learning, in process of time attained the rank of +priesthood. Whenever David II., bishop of St. +David’s, talked to him in his advanced state of life +concerning this event, he could never relate the particulars +without shedding tears. He had made himself acquainted with +the language of that nation, the words of which, in his younger +days, he used to recite, which, as the bishop often had informed +me, were very conformable to the Greek idiom. When they +asked for water, they said Ydor ydorum, which meant bring water, +for Ydor in their language, as well as in the Greek, signifies +water, from whence vessels for water are called +ὑδζιαι; and Dûr also, in +the British language, signifies water. When they wanted +salt they said, Halgein ydorum, bring salt: salt is called +ἁλ in Greek, and Halen in British, for that +language, from the length of time which the Britons (then called +Trojans, and afterwards Britons, from Brito, their leader) +remained in Greece after the destruction of Troy, became, in many +instances, similar to the Greek.</p> +<p>It is remarkable that so many languages should correspond in +one word, ἁλ in Greek, Halen in British, and Halgein +in the Irish tongue, the g being inserted; Sal in Latin, because, +as Priscian says, “the s is placed in some words instead of +an aspirate,” as ἁλς in Greek is called +Sal in Latin, +ἑμι—semi—ἑπτα—septem—Sel +in French—the <i>a</i> being changed into +<i>e</i>—Salt in English, by the addition of <i>t</i> to +the Latin; Sout, in the Teutonic language: there are therefore +seven or eight languages agreeing in this one word. If a +scrupulous inquirer should ask my opinion of the relation here +inserted, I answer with Augustine, “that the divine +miracles are to be admired, not discussed.” Nor do I, +by denial, place bounds to the divine power, nor, by assent, +insolently extend what cannot be extended. But I always +call to mind the saying of St. Jerome; “You will +find,” says he, “many things incredible and +improbable, which nevertheless are true; for nature cannot in any +respect prevail <a name="page71"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +71</span>against the lord of nature.” These things, +therefore, and similar contingencies, I should place, according +to the opinion of Augustine, among those particulars which are +neither to be affirmed, nor too positively denied.</p> +<h3>CHAPTER IX<br /> +<span class="GutSmall">PASSAGE OVER THE RIVERS LOCHOR AND +WENDRAETH; AND OF CYDWELI</span></h3> +<p><span class="smcap">Thence</span> we proceeded towards the +river Lochor, <a name="citation71a"></a><a href="#footnote71a" +class="citation">[71a]</a> through the plains in which Howel, son +of Meredyth of Brecheinoc, after the decease of king Henry I., +gained a signal victory over the English. Having first +crossed the river Lochor, and afterwards the water called +Wendraeth, <a name="citation71b"></a><a href="#footnote71b" +class="citation">[71b]</a> we arrived at the castle of Cydweli. +<a name="citation71c"></a><a href="#footnote71c" +class="citation">[71c]</a> In this district, after the +death of king Henry, whilst Gruffydd <a name="page72"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 72</span>son of Rhys, the prince of South +Wales, was engaged in soliciting assistance from North Wales, his +wife Gwenliana (like the queen of the Amazons, and a second +Penthesilea) led an army into these parts; but she was defeated +by Maurice de Londres, lord of that country, and Geoffrey, the +bishop’s constable. <a name="citation72"></a><a +href="#footnote72" class="citation">[72]</a> Morgan, one of +her sons, whom she had arrogantly brought with her in that +expedition, was slain, and the other, Malgo, taken prisoner; and +she, with many of her followers, was put to death. During +the reign of king Henry I., when Wales enjoyed a state of +tranquillity, the above-mentioned Maurice had a forest in that +neighbourhood, well stocked with wild animals, and especially +deer, and was extremely tenacious of his venison. His wife +(for women are often very expert in deceiving men) made use of +this curious stratagem. Her husband possessed, on the side +of the wood next the sea, some extensive pastures, and large +flocks of sheep. Having made all the shepherds and chief +people in her house accomplices and favourers of her design, and +taking advantage of the simple courtesy of her husband, she thus +addressed him: “It is wonderful that being lord over +beasts, you have ceased to exercise dominion over them; and by +not making use of your deer, do not now rule over them, but are +subservient to them; and behold how great an abuse arises from +too much patience; for they attack our sheep with such an +unheard-of rage, and unusual voracity, that from many they are +become few; from being innumerable, only numerous.” +To make her story more probable, she caused some wool to be +inserted between the intestines of two stags which had been +embowelled; and her husband, thus artfully deceived, sacrificed +his deer to the rapacity of his dogs.</p> +<h3><a name="page73"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +73</span>CHAPTER X<br /> +<span class="GutSmall">TYWY +RIVER—CAERMARDYN—MONASTERY OF ALBELANDE</span></h3> +<p><span class="smcap">Having</span> crossed the river Tywy in a +boat, we proceeded towards Caermardyn, leaving Lanstephan and +Talachar <a name="citation73a"></a><a href="#footnote73a" +class="citation">[73a]</a> on the sea-coast to our left. +After the death of king Henry II., Rhys, the son of Gruffydd, +took these two castles by assault; then, having laid waste, by +fire and sword, the provinces of Penbroch and Ros, he besieged +Caermardyn, but failed in his attempt. Caermardyn <a +name="citation73b"></a><a href="#footnote73b" +class="citation">[73b]</a> signifies the city of Merlin, because, +according to the British History, he was there said to have been +begotten of an incubus.</p> +<p>This ancient city is situated on the banks of the noble river +Tywy, surrounded by woods and pastures, and was strongly inclosed +with walls of brick, part of which are still standing; having +Cantref Mawr, the great cantred, or hundred, on the eastern side, +a safe refuge, in times of danger, to the inhabitants of South +Wales, on account of its thick woods; where is also the castle of +Dinevor, <a name="citation73c"></a><a href="#footnote73c" +class="citation">[73c]</a> built <a name="page74"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 74</span>on a lofty summit above the Tywy, the +royal seat of the princes of South Wales. In ancient times, +there were three regal palaces in Wales: Dinevor in South Wales, +Aberfrau in North Wales, situated in Anglesea, and Pengwern in +Powys, now called Shrewsbury (Slopesburia); Pengwern signifies +the head of a grove of alders. Recalling to mind those +poetical passages:</p> +<blockquote><p>“Dolus an virtus quis in hoste +requirat?”</p> +</blockquote> +<p>and</p> +<blockquote><p>“Et si non recte possis quocunque modo +rem,”</p> +</blockquote> +<p>my pen shrinks with abhorrence from the relation of the +enormous vengeance exercised by the court against its vassals, +within the comot of Caeo, in the Cantref Mawr. Near +Dinevor, on the other side of the river Tywy, in the Cantref +Bychan, or the little cantred, there is a spring which, like the +tide, ebbs and flows twice in twenty-four hours. <a +name="citation74a"></a><a href="#footnote74a" +class="citation">[74a]</a> Not far to the north of +Caermardyn, namely at Pencadair, <a name="citation74b"></a><a +href="#footnote74b" class="citation">[74b]</a> that is, the head +of the chair, when Rhys, the son of Gruffydd, was more by +stratagem than force compelled to surrender, and was carried away +into England, king Henry II. despatched a knight, born in +Britany, on whose wisdom and fidelity he could rely, under the +conduct of Guaidanus, dean of Cantref Mawr, to explore the +situation of Dinevor castle, and the strength of the +country. The priest, being desired to take the knight by +the easiest and best road to the castle, led him purposely aside +by the most difficult and inaccessible paths, and wherever they +passed through woods, the priest, to the general surprise of all +present, fed upon grass, asserting that, in times of need, the <a +name="page75"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 75</span>inhabitants +of that country were accustomed to live upon herbs and +roots. The knight returning to the king, and relating what +had happened, affirmed that the country was uninhabitable, vile, +and inaccessible, and only affording food to a beastly nation, +living like brutes. At length the king released Rhys, +having first bound him to fealty by solemn oaths and the delivery +of hostages.</p> +<p>On our journey from Caermardyn towards the Cistercian +monastery called Alba Domus, <a name="citation75a"></a><a +href="#footnote75a" class="citation">[75a]</a> the archbishop was +informed of the murder of a young Welshman, who was devoutly +hastening to meet him; when turning out of the road, he ordered +the corpse to be covered with the cloak of his almoner, and with +a pious supplication commended the soul of the murdered youth to +heaven. Twelve archers of the adjacent castle of St. Clare, +<a name="citation75b"></a><a href="#footnote75b" +class="citation">[75b]</a> who had assassinated the young man, +were on the following day <a name="page76"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 76</span>signed with the cross at Alba Domus, +as a punishment for their crime. Having traversed three +rivers, the Taf, then the Cleddeu, under Lanwadein, <a +name="citation76a"></a><a href="#footnote76a" +class="citation">[76a]</a> and afterwards another branch of the +same river, we at length arrived at Haverford. This +province, from its situation between two rivers, has acquired the +name of Daugleddeu, <a name="citation76b"></a><a +href="#footnote76b" class="citation">[76b]</a> being enclosed and +terminated, as it were, by two swords, for cleddue, in the +British language, signifies a sword.</p> +<h3>CHAPTER XI<br /> +<span class="GutSmall">OF HAVERFORD AND ROS</span></h3> +<p>A <span class="smcap">sermon</span> having been delivered at +Haverford <a name="citation76c"></a><a href="#footnote76c" +class="citation">[76c]</a> by the archbishop, and the word of God +preached to the people by the archdeacon, whose name appears on +the title-page of this work, many soldiers and plebeians were +induced to take the cross. It appeared wonderful and +miraculous, that, although the archdeacon addressed them both in +the Latin and French tongues, those persons who understood +neither of those languages were equally affected, and flocked in +great numbers to the cross.</p> +<p>An old woman of those parts, who for three preceding years had +been blind, having heard of the archbishop’s arrival, sent +her son to the place where the sermon was to be preached, that he +might bring back to her some <a name="page77"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 77</span>particle, if only of the fringe of +his garment. The young man being prevented by the crowd +from approaching the archbishop, waited till the assembly was +dispersed, and then carried a piece of the earth on which the +preacher had stood. The mother received the gift with great +joy, and falling immediately on her knees, applied the turf to +her mouth and eyes; and thus, through the merits of the holy man, +and her own faith and devotion, recovered the blessing of sight, +which she had entirely lost.</p> +<p>The inhabitants of this province derived their origin from +Flanders, and were sent by king Henry I. to inhabit these +districts; a people brave and robust, ever most hostile to the +Welsh; a people, I say, well versed in commerce and woollen +manufactories; a people anxious to seek gain by sea or land, in +defiance of fatigue and danger; a hardy race, equally fitted for +the plough or the sword; a people brave and happy, if Wales (as +it ought to have been) had been dear to its sovereign, and had +not so frequently experienced the vindictive resentment and +ill-treatment of its governors.</p> +<p>A circumstance happened in the castle of Haverford during our +time, which ought not to be omitted. A famous robber was +fettered and confined in one of its towers, and was often visited +by three boys, the son of the earl of Clare, and two others, one +of whom was son of the lord of the castle, and the other his +grandson, sent thither for their education, and who applied to +him for arrows, with which he used to supply them. One day, +at the request of the children, the robber, being brought from +his dungeon, took advantage of the absence of the gaoler, closed +the door, and shut himself up with the boys. A great +clamour instantly arose, as well from the boys within, as from +the people without; nor did he cease, with an uplifted axe, to +threaten the lives of the children, until indemnity and security +were assured to him in the most ample manner. A similar +accident happened at Chateau-roux in France. The lord of +that <a name="page78"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 78</span>place +maintained in the castle a man whose eyes he had formerly put +out, but who, by long habit, recollected the ways of the castle, +and the steps leading to the towers. Seizing an opportunity +of revenge, and meditating the destruction of the youth, he +fastened the inward doors of the castle, and took the only son +and heir of the governor of the castle to the summit of a high +tower, from whence he was seen with the utmost concern by the +people beneath. The father of the boy hastened thither, +and, struck with terror, attempted by every possible means to +procure the ransom of his son, but received for answer, that this +could not be effected, but by the same mutilation of those lower +parts, which he had likewise inflicted on him. The father, +having in vain entreated mercy, at length assented, and caused a +violent blow to be struck on his body; and the people around him +cried out lamentably, as if he had suffered mutilation. The +blind man asked him where he felt the greatest pain? when he +replied in his reins, he declared it was false and prepared to +precipitate the boy. A second blow was given, and the lord +of the castle asserting that the greatest pains were at his +heart, the blind man expressing his disbelief, again carried the +boy to the summit of the tower. The third time, however, +the father, to save his son, really mutilated himself; and when +he exclaimed that the greatest pain was in his teeth; “It +is true,” said he, “as a man who has had experience +should be believed, and thou hast in part revenged my +injuries. I shall meet death with more satisfaction, and +thou shalt neither beget any other son, nor receive comfort from +this.” Then, precipitating himself and the boy from +the summit of the tower, their limbs were broken, and both +instantly expired. The knight ordered a monastery to be +built on the spot for the soul of the boy, which is still extant, +and called De Doloribus.</p> +<p>It appears remarkable to me that the entire inheritance should +devolve on Richard, son of Tankard, governor of the aforesaid +castle of Haverford, being the <a name="page79"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 79</span>youngest son, and having many +brothers of distinguished character who died before him. In +like manner the dominion of South Wales descended to Rhys son of +Gruffyd, owing to the death of several of his brothers. +During the childhood of Richard, a holy man, named Caradoc, led a +pious and recluse life at St. Ismael, in the province of Ros, <a +name="citation79a"></a><a href="#footnote79a" +class="citation">[79a]</a> to whom the boy was often sent by his +parents with provisions, and he so ingratiated himself in the +eyes of the good man, that he very often promised him, together +with his blessing, the portion of all his brothers, and the +paternal inheritance. It happened that Richard, being +overtaken by a violent storm of rain, turned aside to the +hermit’s cell; and being unable to get his hounds near him, +either by calling, coaxing, or by offering them food, the holy +man smiled; and making a gentle motion with his hand, brought +them all to him immediately. In process of time, when +Caradoc <a name="citation79b"></a><a href="#footnote79b" +class="citation">[79b]</a> <a name="page80"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 80</span>had happily completed the course of +his existence, Tankard, father of Richard, violently detained his +body, which by his last will he had bequeathed to the church of +St. David; but being suddenly seized with a severe illness, he +revoked his command. When this had happened to him a second +and a third time, and the corpse at last was suffered to be +conveyed away, and was proceeding over the sands of Niwegal +towards St. David’s, a prodigious fall of rain inundated +the whole country; but the conductors of the sacred burthen, on +coming forth from their shelter, found the silken pall, with +which the bier was covered, dry and uninjured by the storm; and +thus the miraculous body of Caradoc was brought into the church +of St. Andrew and St. David, and with due solemnity deposited in +the left aisle, near the altar of the holy proto-martyr +Stephen.</p> +<p>It is worthy of remark, that these people (the Flemings), from +the inspection of the right shoulders of rams, which have been +stripped of their flesh, and not roasted, but boiled, can +discover future events, or those which have passed and remained +long unknown. <a name="citation80"></a><a href="#footnote80" +class="citation">[80]</a> They know, also, what is +transpiring at a distant place, by a wonderful art, and a +prophetic kind of spirit. They declare, also, by means of +signs, the undoubted symptoms of approaching peace and war, +murders and fires, domestic adulteries, the state of the king, +his life and death. It happened in our time, that a man of +those parts, whose name was William Mangunel, a person of high +rank, and excelling all others in the aforesaid art, had a wife +big with child by her own husband’s grandson. Well +aware of the fact, he ordered a ram from his own flock to be sent +to his wife, as a present from her neighbour, which was carried +to the cook, and dressed. At dinner, the <a +name="page81"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 81</span>husband +purposely gave the shoulder-bone of the ram, properly cleaned, to +his wife, who was also well skilled in this art, for her +examination; when, having for a short time examined the secret +marks, she smiled, and threw the oracle down on the table. +Her husband, dissembling, earnestly demanded the cause of her +smiling, and the explanation of the matter. Overcome by his +entreaties, she answered: “The man to whose fold this ram +belongs, has an adulterous wife, at this time pregnant by the +commission of incest with his own grandson.” The +husband, with a sorrowful and dejected countenance, replied: +“You deliver, indeed, an oracle supported by too much +truth, which I have so much more reason to lament, as the +ignominy you have published redounds to my own +injury.” The woman, thus detected, and unable to +dissemble her confusion, betrayed the inward feelings of her mind +by external signs; shame and sorrow urging her by turns, and +manifesting themselves, now by blushes, now by paleness, and +lastly (according to the custom of women), by tears. The +shoulder of a goat was also once brought to a certain person, +instead of a ram’s—both being alike, when cleaned; +who, observing for a short time the lines and marks, exclaimed, +“Unhappy cattle, that never was multiplied! unhappy, +likewise, the owner of the cattle, who never had more than three +or four in one flock!” Many persons, a year and a +half before the event, foresaw, by the means of shoulder-bones, +the destruction of their country, after the decease of king Henry +I., and, selling all their possessions, left their homes, and +escaped the impending ruin.</p> +<p>It happened also in Flanders, from whence this people came, +that a certain man sent a similar bone to a neighbour for his +inspection; and the person who carried it, on passing over a +ditch, broke wind, and wished it in the nostrils of the man on +whose account he was thus troubled. The person to whom the +bone was taken, on examination, said, “May you have in your +own nose, that which you wished to be in mine.” In +our time, a soothsayer, on <a name="page82"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 82</span>the inspection of a bone, discovered +not only a theft, and the manner of it, but the thief himself, +and all the attendant circumstances; he heard also the striking +of a bell, and the sound of a trumpet, as if those things which +were past were still performing. It is wonderful, +therefore, that these bones, like all unlawful conjurations, +should represent, by a counterfeit similitude to the eyes and +ears, things which are passed, as well as those which are now +going on.</p> +<h3>CHAPTER XII<br /> +<span class="GutSmall">OF PENBROCH</span></h3> +<p><span class="smcap">The</span> province of Penbroch adjoins +the southern part of the territory of Ros, and is separated from +it by an arm of the sea. Its principal city, and the +metropolis of Demetia, is situated on an oblong rocky eminence, +extending with two branches from Milford Haven, from whence it +derived the name of Penbroch, which signifies the head of the +æstuary. Arnulph de Montgomery, <a +name="citation82a"></a><a href="#footnote82a" +class="citation">[82a]</a> in the reign of king Henry I., erected +here a slender fortress with stakes and turf, which, on returning +to England, he consigned to the care of Giraldus de Windesor, <a +name="citation82b"></a><a href="#footnote82b" +class="citation">[82b]</a> his constable and lieutenant-general, +a <a name="page83"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 83</span>worthy +and discreet man. Immediately on the death of Rhys son of +Tewdwr, who a short time before had been slain by the treachery +of his own troops at Brecheinoc, leaving his son, Gruffydd, a +child, the inhabitants of South Wales besieged the castle. +One night, when fifteen soldiers had deserted, and endeavoured to +escape from the castle in a small boat, on the following morning +Giraldus invested their armour bearers with the arms and estates +of their masters, and decorated them with the military +order. The garrison being, from the length of the siege, +reduced to the utmost want of provisions, the constable, with +great prudence and flattering hopes of success, caused four hogs, +which yet remained, to be cut into small pieces and thrown down +to the enemy from the fortifications. The next day, having +again recourse to a more refined stratagem, he contrived that a +letter, sealed with his own signet, should be found before the +house of Wilfred, <a name="citation83"></a><a href="#footnote83" +class="citation">[83]</a> bishop of St. David’s, who was +then by chance in that neighbourhood, as if accidentally dropped, +stating that there would be no necessity of soliciting the +assistance of earl Arnulph for the next four months to +come. The contents of these letters being made known to the +army, the troops abandoned the siege of the castle, and retired +to their own homes. Giraldus, in order to make himself and +his dependants more secure, married Nest, the sister of Gruffydd, +prince of South Wales, by whom he had an illustrious progeny of +both sexes; and by whose means both the maritime parts of South +Wales were retained by the English, and the walls of Ireland +afterwards stormed, as our Vaticinal History declares.</p> +<p><a name="page84"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 84</span>In our +time, a person residing at the castle of Penbroch, found a brood +of young weasels concealed within a fleece in his dwelling house, +which he carefully removed and hid. The mother, irritated +at the loss of her young, which she had searched for in vain, +went to a vessel of milk that had been set aside for the use of +the master’s son, and raising herself up, polluted it with +her deadly poison; thus revenging, as it were, the loss of her +young, by the destruction of the child. The man, observing +what passed, carried the fleece back to its former place; when +the weasel, agitated by maternal solicitude, between hope and +fear, on finding again her young, began to testify her joy by her +cries and actions, and returning quickly to the vessel, overthrew +it; thus, in gratitude for the recovery of her own offspring, +saving that of her host from danger.</p> +<p>In another place, an animal of the same species had brought +out her young into a plain for the enjoyment of the sun and air; +when an insidious kite carried off one of them. Concealing +herself with the remainder behind some shrubs, grief suggested to +her a stratagem of exquisite revenge; she extended herself on a +heap of earth, as if dead, within sight of the plunderer, and (as +success always increases avidity) the bird immediately seized her +and flew away, but soon fell down dead by the bite of the +poisonous animal.</p> +<p>The castle called Maenor Pyrr, <a name="citation84"></a><a +href="#footnote84" class="citation">[84]</a> that is, the mansion +of <a name="page85"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 85</span>Pyrrus, +who also possessed the island of Chaldey, which the Welsh call +Inys Pyrr, or the island of Pyrrus, is distant about three miles +from Penbroch. It is excellently well defended by turrets +and bulwarks, and is situated on the summit of a hill extending +on the western side towards the sea-port, having on the northern +and southern sides a fine fish-pond under its walls, as +conspicuous for its grand appearance, as for the depth of its +waters, and a beautiful orchard on the same side, inclosed on one +part by a vineyard, and on the other by a wood, remarkable for +the projection of its rocks, and the height of its hazel +trees. On the right hand of the promontory, between the +castle and the church, near the site of a very large lake and +mill, a rivulet of never-failing water flows through a valley, +rendered sandy by the violence of the winds. Towards the +west, the Severn sea, bending its course to Ireland, enters a +hollow bay at some distance from the castle; and the southern +rocks, if extended a little further towards the north, would +render it a most excellent harbour for shipping. From this +point of sight, you will see almost all the ships from Great +Britain, which the east wind drives upon the Irish coast, +daringly brave the inconstant waves and raging sea. This +country is well supplied with corn, sea-fish, and imported wines; +and what is preferable to every other advantage, from its +vicinity to Ireland, it is tempered by a salubrious air. +Demetia, therefore, with its seven cantreds, is the most +beautiful, as well as the most powerful district of Wales; +Penbroch, the finest part of the province of Demetia; and the +place I have just described, the most delightful part of +Penbroch. It is evident, therefore, that Maenor Pirr is the +pleasantest spot in Wales; and the author may be pardoned for +having thus extolled his native soil, his genial territory, with +a profusion of praise and admiration.</p> +<p><a name="page86"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 86</span>In this +part of Penbroch, unclean spirits have conversed, nor visibly, +but sensibly, with mankind; first in the house of Stephen Wiriet, +<a name="citation86a"></a><a href="#footnote86a" +class="citation">[86a]</a> and afterwards in the house of William +Not; <a name="citation86b"></a><a href="#footnote86b" +class="citation">[86b]</a> manifesting their presence by throwing +dirt at them, and more with a view of mockery than of +injury. In the house of William, they cut holes in the +linen and woollen garments, much to the loss of the owner of the +house and his guests; nor could any precaution, or even bolts, +secure them from these inconveniences. In the house of +Stephen, the spirit in a more extraordinary manner conversed with +men, and, in reply to their taunts, upbraided them openly with +everything they had done from their birth, and which they were +not willing should be known or heard by others. I do not +presume to assign the cause of this event, except that it is said +to be the presage of a sudden change from poverty to riches, or +rather from affluence to poverty and distress; as it was found to +be the case in both these instances. And it appears to me +very extraordinary that these places could not be purified from +such illusions, either by the sprinkling of holy water, or the +assistance of any other religious ceremony; for the priests +themselves, though protected by the crucifix, or the holy water, +on devoutly entering the house, were equally subject to the same +insults. From whence it appears that things pertaining to +the sacraments, as well as the sacraments themselves, defend us +from hurtful, but not from harmless things; from annoyances, but +not from illusions. It is worthy of note, that in our time, +a woman in Poitou was possessed by a demon, who, through her +mouth, artfully and acutely disputed with the learned. He +sometimes upbraided people with <a name="page87"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 87</span>their secret actions, and those +things which they wished not to hear; but when either the books +of the gospel, or the relics of saints, were placed upon the +mouth of the possessed, he fled to the lower part of her throat; +and when they were removed thither, he descended into her +belly. His appearance was indicated by certain inflations +and convulsions of the parts which he possessed, and when the +relics were again placed in the lower parts, he directly returned +to the upper. At length, when they brought the body of +Christ, and gave it to the patient, the demon answered, “Ye +fools, you are doing nothing, for what you give her is not the +food of the body, but of the soul; and my power is confined to +the body, not to the soul.” But when those persons +whom he had upbraided with their more serious actions, had +confessed, and returned from penance, he reproached them no +more. “I have known, indeed,” says he, “I +have known but now I know not, (he spake this as it were a +reproach to others), and I hold my tongue, for what I know, I +know not.” From which it appears, that after +confession and penance, the demons either do not know the sins of +men, or do not know them to their injury and disgrace; because, +as Augustine says, “If man conceals, God discovers; if man +discovers, God conceals.”</p> +<p>Some people are surprised that lightning often strikes our +places of worship, and damages the crosses and images of him who +was crucified, before the eyes of one who seeth all things, and +permits these circumstances to happen; to whom I shall only +answer with Ovid,</p> +<blockquote><p>“Summa petit livor, perflant altissima +venti,<br /> + Summa petunt dextra fulmina missa Jovis.”</p> +</blockquote> +<p>On the same subject, Peter Abelard, in the presence of Philip +king of France, is said to have answered a Jew, who urged these +and similar things against the faith. “It is true +that the lightning descending from on high, directs itself most +commonly to the highest object on <a name="page88"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 88</span>earth, and to those most resembling +its own nature; it never, therefore, injures your synagogues, +because no man ever saw or heard of its falling upon a +privy.” An event worthy of note, happened in our time +in France. During a contention between some monks of the +Cistercian order, and a certain knight, about the limits of their +fields and lands, a violent tempest, in one night, utterly +destroyed and ruined the cultivated grounds of the monks, while +the adjoining territory of the knight remained undamaged. +On which occasion he insolently inveighed against the fraternity, +and publicly asserted that divine vengeance had thus punished +them for unlawfully keeping possession of his land; to which the +abbot wittily replied, “It is by no means so; but that the +knight had more friends in that riding than the monastery;” +and he clearly demonstrated that, on the other hand, the monks +had more enemies in it.</p> +<p>In the province of Penbroch, another instance occurred, about +the same time, of a spirit’s appearing in the house of +Elidore de Stakepole, <a name="citation88"></a><a +href="#footnote88" class="citation">[88]</a> not only sensibly, +but visibly, under the form of a red-haired young man, who called +himself Simon. First seizing the keys from the person to +whom they were entrusted, he impudently assumed the +steward’s office, which he managed so prudently and +providently, that all things seemed to abound under his care, and +there was no deficiency in the house. Whatever the master +or mistress secretly thought of having for their daily use or +provision, he procured with wonderful agility, and without any +previous directions, saying, “You wished that to be done, +and it shall be done for you.” He was also well +acquainted with their treasures and secret hoards, and sometimes +upbraided them on that account; for as often as they seemed to +act sparingly <a name="page89"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +89</span>and avariciously, he used to say, “Why are you +afraid to spend that heap of gold or silver, since your lives are +of so short duration, and the money you so cautiously hoard up +will never do you any service?” He gave the choicest +meat and drink to the rustics and hired servants, saying that +“Those persons should be abundantly supplied, by whose +labours they were acquired.” Whatever he determined +should be done, whether pleasing or displeasing to his master or +mistress (for, as we have said before, he knew all their +secrets), he completed in his usual expeditious manner, without +their consent. He never went to church, or uttered one +Catholic word. He did not sleep in the house, but was ready +at his office in the morning.</p> +<p>He was at length observed by some of the family to hold his +nightly converse near a mill and a pool of water; upon which +discovery he was summoned the next morning before the master of +the house and his lady, and, receiving his discharge, delivered +up the keys, which he had held for upwards of forty days. +Being earnestly interrogated, at his departure, who he was? he +answered, “That he was begotten upon the wife of a rustic +in that parish, by a demon, in the shape of her husband,” +naming the man, and his father-in-law, then dead, and his mother, +still alive; the truth of which the woman, upon examination, +openly avowed. A similar circumstance happened in our time +in Denmark. A certain unknown priest paid court to the +archbishop, and, from his obsequious behaviour and discreet +conduct, his general knowledge of letters and quick memory, soon +contracted a great familiarity with him. Conversing one day +with the archbishop about ancient histories and unknown events, +on which topic he most frequently heard him with pleasure, it +happened that when the subject of their discourse was the +incarnation of our Lord, he said, amongst other things, +“Before Christ assumed human nature, the demons had great +power over mankind, which, at his coming, was much diminished; <a +name="page90"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 90</span>insomuch that +they were dispersed on every side, and fled from his +presence. Some precipitated themselves into the sea, others +into the hollow parts of trees, or the clefts of rocks; and I +myself leaped into a well;” on which he blushed for shame, +and took his departure. The archbishop, and those who were +with him, being greatly astonished at that speech, began to ask +questions by turns, and form conjectures; and having waited some +time (for he was expected to return soon), the archbishop ordered +some of his attendants to call him, but he was sought for in +vain, and never re-appeared. Soon afterwards, two priests, +whom the archbishop had sent to Rome, returned; and when this +event was related to them, they began to inquire the day and hour +on which the circumstance had happened? On being told it, +they declared that on the very same day and hour he had met them +on the Alps, saying, that he had been sent to the court of Rome, +on account of some business of his master’s (meaning the +archbishop), which had lately occurred. And thus it was +proved, that a demon had deluded them under a human form.</p> +<p>I ought not to omit mentioning the falcons of these parts, +which are large, and of a generous kind, and exercise a most +severe tyranny over the river and land birds. King Henry +II. remained here some time, making preparations for his voyage +to Ireland; and being desirous of taking the diversion of +hawking, he accidentally saw a noble falcon perched upon a +rock. Going sideways round him, he let loose a fine Norway +hawk, which he carried on his left hand. The falcon, though +at first slower in its flight, soaring up to a great height, +burning with resentment, and in his turn becoming the aggressor, +rushed down upon his adversary with the greatest impetuosity, and +by a violent blow struck the hawk dead at the feet of the +king. From that time the king sent every year, about the +breeding season, for the falcons <a name="citation90"></a><a +href="#footnote90" class="citation">[90]</a> of <a +name="page91"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 91</span>this country, +which are produced on the sea cliffs; nor can better be found in +any part of his dominions. But let us now return to our +Itinerary.</p> +<h3>CHAPTER XIII<br /> +<span class="GutSmall">OF THE PROGRESS BY CAMROS AND +NIWEGAL</span></h3> +<p><span class="smcap">From</span> Haverford we proceeded on our +journey to Menevia, distant from thence about twelve miles, and +passed through Camros, <a name="citation91a"></a><a +href="#footnote91a" class="citation">[91a]</a> where, in the +reign of king Stephen, the relations and friends of a +distinguished young man, Giraldus, son of William, revenged his +death by a too severe retaliation on the men of Ros. We +then passed over Niwegal sands, at which place (during the winter +that king Henry II. spent in Ireland), as well as in almost all +the other western ports, a very remarkable circumstance +occurred. The sandy shores of South Wales, being laid bare +by the extraordinary violence of a storm, the surface of the +earth, which had been covered for many ages, re-appeared, and +discovered the trunks of trees cut off, standing in the very sea +itself, the strokes of the hatchet appearing as if made only +yesterday. <a name="citation91b"></a><a href="#footnote91b" +class="citation">[91b]</a> The soil was very black, and the +wood like ebony. By a wonderful revolution, the road for +ships became impassable, and looked, not like a shore, but like a +grove cut down, perhaps, at <a name="page92"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 92</span>the time of the deluge, or not long +after, but certainly in very remote ages, being by degrees +consumed and swallowed up by the violence and encroachments of +the sea. During the same tempest many sea fish were driven, +by the violence of the wind and waves, upon dry land. We +were well lodged at St. David’s by Peter, bishop of the +see, a liberal man, who had hitherto accompanied us during the +whole of our journey.</p> +<h2><a name="page93"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 93</span>BOOK +II</h2> +<h3><a name="page94"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +94</span>PREFACE</h3> +<p><span class="smcap">Since</span>, therefore, St. David’s +is the head, and in times past was the metropolitan, city of +Wales, though now, alas! retaining more of the <i>name</i> than +of the <i>omen</i>, <a name="citation94"></a><a +href="#footnote94" class="citation">[94]</a> yet I have not +forborne to weep over the obsequies of our ancient and undoubted +mother, to follow the mournful hearse, and to deplore with +tearful sighs the ashes of our half-buried matron. I shall, +therefore, endeavour briefly to declare to you in what manner, +from whence, and from what period the pall was first brought to +St. David’s, and how it was taken away; how many prelates +were invested with the pall; and how many were despoiled thereof; +together with their respective names to this present day.</p> +<h3><a name="page95"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +95</span>CHAPTER I<br /> +<span class="GutSmall">OF THE SEE OF SAINT +DAVID’S</span></h3> +<p><span class="smcap">We</span> are informed by the British +histories, that Dubricius, archbishop of Caerleon, sensible of +the infirmities of age, or rather being desirous of leading a +life of contemplation, resigned his honours to David, who is said +to have been uncle to king Arthur; and by his interest the see +was translated to Menevia, although Caerleon, as we have observed +in the first book, was much better adapted for the episcopal +see. For Menevia is situated in a most remote corner of +land upon the Irish ocean, the soil stony and barren, neither +clothed with woods, distinguished by rivers, nor adorned by +meadows, ever exposed to the winds and tempests, and continually +subject to the hostile attacks of the Flemings on one side, and +of the Welsh on the other. For the holy men who settled +here, chose purposely such a retired habitation, that by avoiding +the noise of the world, and preferring an heremitical to a +pastoral life, they might more freely provide for “that +part which shall not be taken away;” for David was +remarkable for his sanctity and religion, as the history of his +life will testify. Amongst the many miracles recorded of +him, three appear to me the most worthy of admiration: his origin +and conception; his pre-election thirty years before his birth; +and what exceeds all, the sudden rising of the ground, at Brevy, +under his feet while preaching, to the great astonishment of all +the beholders.</p> +<p>Since the time of David, twenty-five archbishops presided over +the see of Menevia, whose names are here subjoined: David, +Cenauc, Eliud, who was also called <a name="page96"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 96</span>Teilaus, Ceneu, Morwal, Haerunen, +Elwaed, Gurnuen, Lendivord, Gorwysc, Cogan, Cledauc, Anian, +Euloed, Ethelmen, Elauc, Malscoed, Sadermen, Catellus, +Sulhaithnai, Nonis, Etwal, Asser, Arthuael, Sampson. In the +time of Sampson, the pall was translated from Menevia in the +following manner: a disorder called the yellow plague, and by the +physicians the icteric passion, of which the people died in great +numbers, raged throughout Wales, at the time when Sampson held +the archiepiscopal see. Though a holy man, and fearless of +death, he was prevailed upon, by the earnest intreaties of his +people, to go on board a vessel, which was wafted, by a south +wind, to Britannia Armorica, <a name="citation96"></a><a +href="#footnote96" class="citation">[96]</a> where he and his +attendants were safely landed. The see of Dol being at that +time vacant, he was immediately elected bishop. Hence it +came to pass, that on account of the pall which Sampson had +brought thither with him, the succeeding bishops, even to our +times, always retained it. But during the presidency of the +archbishop of Tours, this adventitious dignity ceased; yet our +countrymen, through indolence or poverty, or rather owing to the +arrival of the English into the island, and the frequent +hostilities committed against them by the Saxons, lost their +archiepiscopal honours. But until the entire subjugation of +Wales by king Henry I., the Welsh bishops were always consecrated +by the bishop of St. David’s; and he was consecrated by his +suffragans, without any profession or submission being made to +any other church.</p> +<p>From the time of Sampson to that of king Henry I., nineteen +bishops presided over this see: Ruelin, Rodherch, Elguin, +Lunuerd, Nergu, Sulhidir, Eneuris, Morgeneu, who was the first +bishop of St. David’s who ate flesh, and was there killed +by pirates; and he appeared <a name="page97"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 97</span>to a certain bishop in Ireland on the +night of his death, shewing his wounds, and saying, +“Because I ate flesh, I am become flesh.” +Nathan, Ievan (who was bishop only one night), Argustel, +Morgenueth, Ervin, Tramerin, Joseph, Bleithud, Sulghein, Abraham, +Wilfred. Since the subjugation of Wales to the present +time, three only have held the see: in the reign of king Henry +I., Bernard; in the reign of king Stephen, David II.; and in the +reign of king Henry II., Peter, a monk of the order of Cluny; who +all, by the king’s mandate, were consecrated at Canterbury; +as also Geoffrey, prior and canon of Lanthoni, who succeeded them +in the reign of king John, and was preferred to this see by the +interest of Hubert, archbishop of Canterbury, and afterwards +consecrated by him. We do not hear that either before or +after that subjugation, any archbishop of Canterbury ever entered +the borders of Wales, except Baldwin, a monk of the Cistercian +order, abbot of Ford, and afterwards bishop of Worcester, who +traversed that rough, inaccessible, and remote country with a +laudable devotion for the service of the cross; and as a token of +investiture, celebrated mass in all the cathedral churches. +So that till lately the see of St. David’s owed no +subjection to that of Canterbury, as may be seen in the English +History of Bede, who says that “Augustine, bishop of the +Angles, after the conversion of king Ethelfred and the English +people, called together the bishops of Wales on the confines of +the West Saxons, as legate of the apostolic see. When the +seven bishops <a name="citation97"></a><a href="#footnote97" +class="citation">[97]</a> appeared, Augustine, sitting in his +chair, with Roman pride, did not rise up at their entrance. +Observing his haughtiness (after the example of a holy anchorite +of their nation), they immediately returned, and treated him and +his statutes with contempt, publicly proclaiming that they would +not acknowledge him for their archbishop; alleging, that if he +now refused to rise up to us, how much <a name="page98"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 98</span>more will he hold us in contempt, if +we submit to be subject to him?” That there were at +that time seven bishops in Wales, and now only four, may be thus +accounted for; because perhaps there were formerly more cathedral +churches in Wales than there are at present, or the extent of +Wales might have been greater. Amongst so many bishops thus +deprived of their dignity, Bernard, the first French [<i>i.e.</i> +Norman] bishop of St. David’s, alone defended the rights of +his church in a public manner; and after many expensive and +vexatious appeals to the court of Rome, would not have reclaimed +them in vain, if false witnesses had not publicly appeared at the +council of Rheims, before pope Eugenius, and testified that he +had made profession and submission to the see of +Canterbury. Supported by three auxiliaries, the favour and +intimacy of king Henry, a time of peace, and consequent plenty, +he boldly hazarded the trial of so great a cause, and so +confident was he of his just right, that he sometimes caused the +cross to be carried before him during his journey through +Wales.</p> +<p>Bernard, however commendable in some particulars, was +remarkable for his insufferable pride and ambition. For as +soon as he became courtier and a creature of the king’s, +panting after English riches by means of translation, (a malady +under which all the English sent hither seem to labour), he +alienated many of the lands of his church without either +advantage or profit, and disposed of others so indiscreetly and +improvidently, that when ten carucates <a +name="citation98"></a><a href="#footnote98" +class="citation">[98]</a> of land were required for military +purposes, he would, with a liberal hand, give twenty or thirty; +and of the canonical rites and ordinances which he had miserably +and unhappily instituted at St. David’s, he would hardly +make use of one, at most only of two or three. With respect +to the two sees of Canterbury and St. David’s, I will +briefly explain my opinion of their <a name="page99"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 99</span>present state. On one side, you +will see royal favour, affluence of riches, numerous and opulent +suffragan bishops, great abundance of learned men and well +skilled in the laws; on the other side, a deficiency of all these +things, and a total want of justice; on which account the +recovery of its ancient rights will not easily be effected, but +by means of those great changes and vicissitudes which kingdoms +experience from various and unexpected events.</p> +<p>The spot where the church of St. David’s stands, and was +founded in honour of the apostle St. Andrew, is called the Vale +of Roses; which ought rather to be named the vale of marble, +since it abounds with one, and by no means with the other. +The river Alun, a muddy and unproductive rivulet, <a +name="citation99a"></a><a href="#footnote99a" +class="citation">[99a]</a> bounding the churchyard on the +northern side, flows under a marble stone, called Lechlavar, +which has been polished by continual treading of passengers, and +concerning the name, size, and quality of which we have treated +in our Vaticinal History. <a name="citation99b"></a><a +href="#footnote99b" class="citation">[99b]</a> Henry II., +on his return from Ireland, is said to have passed over this +stone, before he devoutly entered the church of St. Andrew and +St. David. Having left the following garrisons in Ireland, +namely, Hugh de Lacy (to whom he had given Meath in fee) in +Dublin, with twenty knights; Fitz-Stephen and Maurice Fitzgerald, +with other twenty; Humphrey de Bohun, Robert Fitz-Bernard, and +Hugh de Grainville at Waterford, with forty; and William +Fitz-Adelm and Philip de Braose at Wexford, with twenty; on the +second day of Easter, the king embarked at sunrise on board a +vessel in the outward port of Wexford, and, with a south wind, +landed about noon in the harbour of Menevia. Proceeding +towards the shrine of St. David, habited like a pilgrim, and +leaning on a staff, he met at the white gate a procession of the +canons of the church coming forth to <a name="page100"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 100</span>receive him with due honour and +reverence. As the procession solemnly moved along, a Welsh +woman threw herself at the king’s feet, and made a +complaint against the bishop of the place, which was explained to +the king by an interpreter. The woman, immediate attention +not being paid to her petition, with violent gesticulation, and a +loud and impertinent voice, exclaimed repeatedly, “Revenge +us this day, Lechlavar! revenge us and the nation in this +man!” On being chidden and driven away by those who +understood the British language, she more vehemently and forcibly +vociferated in the like manner, alluding to the vulgar fiction +and proverb of Merlin, “That a king of England, and +conqueror of Ireland, should be wounded in that country by a man +with a red hand, and die upon Lechlavar, on his return through +Menevia.” This was the name of that stone which +serves as a bridge over the river Alun, which divides the +cemetery from the northern side of the church. It was a +beautiful piece of marble, polished by the feet of passengers, +ten feet in length, six in breadth, and one in thickness. +Lechlavar signifies in the British language a talking stone. <a +name="citation100"></a><a href="#footnote100" +class="citation">[100]</a> There was an ancient tradition +respecting this stone, that at a time when a corpse was carried +over it for interment, it broke forth into speech, and by the +effort cracked in the middle, which fissure is still visible; and +on account of this barbarous and ancient superstition, the +corpses are no longer brought over it. The king, who had +heard the prophecy, approaching the stone, stopped for a short +time at the foot of it, and, looking earnestly at it, boldly +passed over; then, turning round, and looking towards the stone, +thus indignantly inveighed against the prophet: “Who will +hereafter give credit to the lying Merlin?” A person +standing by, and observing what had passed, in order to vindicate +the injury done to the prophet, replied, with a loud voice, +“Thou art not that <a name="page101"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 101</span>king by whom Ireland is to be +conquered, or of whom Merlin prophesied!” The king +then entering the church founded in honour of St. Andrew and St. +David, devoutly offered up his prayers, and heard mass performed +by a chaplain, whom alone, out of so large a body of priests, +Providence seems to have kept fasting till that hour, for this +very purpose. Having supped at St. David’s, the king +departed for the castle of Haverford, distant about twelve +miles. It appears very remarkable to me, that in our days, +when David II. presided over the see, the river should have +flowed with wine, and that the spring, called Pistyll Dewi, or +the <i>Pipe</i> of David, from its flowing through a pipe into +the eastern side of the churchyard, should have run with +milk. The birds also of that place, called jackdaws, from +being so long unmolested by the clergy of the church, were grown +so tame and domesticated, as not to be afraid of persons dressed +in black. In clear weather the mountains of Ireland are +visible from hence, and the passage over the Irish sea may be +performed in one short day; on which account William, the son of +William the Bastard, and the second of the Norman kings in +England, who was called Rufus, and who had penetrated far into +Wales, on seeing Ireland from these rocks, is reported to have +said, “I will summon hither all the ships of my realm, and +with them make a bridge to attack that country.” +Which speech being related to Murchard, prince of Leinster, he +paused awhile, and answered, “Did the king add to this +mighty threat, If God please?” and being informed that he +had made no mention of God in his speech, rejoicing in such a +prognostic, he replied, “Since that man trusts in human, +not divine power, I fear not his coming.”</p> +<h3><a name="page102"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +102</span>CHAPTER II<br /> +<span class="GutSmall">OF THE JOURNEY BY CEMMEIS—THE +MONASTERY OF ST. DOGMAEL</span></h3> +<p><span class="smcap">The</span> archbishop having celebrated +mass early in the morning before the high altar of the church of +St. David, and enjoined to the archdeacon (Giraldus) the office +of preaching to the people, hastened through Cemmeis <a +name="citation102a"></a><a href="#footnote102a" +class="citation">[102a]</a> to meet prince Rhys at Aberteive. <a +name="citation102b"></a><a href="#footnote102b" +class="citation">[102b]</a> Two circumstances occurred in +the province of Cemmeis, the one in our own time, the other a +little before, which I think right not to pass over in +silence. In our time, a young man, native of this country, +during a severe illness, suffered as violent a persecution from +toads, <a name="citation102c"></a><a href="#footnote102c" +class="citation">[102c]</a> as if the reptiles of the whole +province had come to him by agreement; and though destroyed by +his nurses and friends, they increased again on all sides in +infinite numbers, like hydras’ heads. His attendants, +both friends and strangers, being wearied out, he was drawn up in +a kind of bag, into a high tree, stripped of its leaves, and +shred; nor was he there secure from his venomous enemies, for +they crept up the tree in great numbers, and consumed him even to +the very bones. The young man’s name was Sisillus +Esceir-hir, that is, Sisillus Long Leg. It is also recorded +that by the hidden but never unjust will of God, another man +suffered a similar persecution from rats. In the same +province, during the reign of king Henry I., a rich man, who had +a residence on the northern side of the Preseleu <a +name="page103"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 103</span>mountains, +<a name="citation103a"></a><a href="#footnote103a" +class="citation">[103a]</a> was warned for three successive +nights, by dreams, that if he put his hand under a stone which +hung over the spring of a neighbouring well, called the fountain +of St. Bernacus, <a name="citation103b"></a><a +href="#footnote103b" class="citation">[103b]</a> he would find +there a golden torques. Obeying the admonition on the third +day, he received, from a viper, a deadly wound in his finger; but +as it appears that many treasures have been discovered through +dreams, it seems to me probable that, with respect to rumours, in +the same manner as to dreams, some ought, and some ought not, to +be believed.</p> +<p>I shall not pass over in silence the circumstance which +occurred in the principal castle of Cemmeis at Lanhever, <a +name="citation103c"></a><a href="#footnote103c" +class="citation">[103c]</a> in our days. Rhys, son of +Gruffydd, by the instigation of his son Gruffydd, a cunning and +artful man, took away by force, from William, son of Martin (de +Tours), his son-in-law, the castle of Lanhever, notwithstanding +he had solemnly sworn, by the most precious relics, that his +indemnity and security should be faithfully maintained, and, +contrary to his word and oath, gave it to his son Gruffydd; but +since “A sordid prey has not a good ending,” the +Lord, who by the mouth of his prophet, exclaims “Vengeance +is mine, and I will repay!” ordained that the castle should +be taken away from the contriver of this wicked plot, Gruffydd, +and bestowed upon the man in the world he most hated, his brother +Malgon. Rhys, also, about two years afterwards, intending +to disinherit his own daughter, and two granddaughters <a +name="page104"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 104</span>and +grandsons, by a singular instance of divine vengeance, was taken +prisoner by his sons in battle, and confined in this same castle; +thus justly suffering the greatest disgrace and confusion in the +very place where he had perpetrated an act of the most consummate +baseness. I think it also worthy to be remembered, that at +the time this misfortune befell him, he had concealed in his +possession, at Dinevor, the collar of St. Canauc of Brecknock, +for which, by divine vengeance, he merited to be taken prisoner +and confined.</p> +<p>We slept that night in the monastery of St. Dogmael, where, as +well as on the next day at Aberteivi, we were handsomely +entertained by prince Rhys. On the Cemmeis side of the +river, not far from the bridge, the people of the neighbourhood +being assembled together, and Rhys and his two sons, Malgon and +Gruffydd, being present, the word of the Lord was persuasively +preached both by the archbishop and the archdeacon, and many were +induced to take the cross; one of whom was an only son, and the +sole comfort of his mother, far advanced in years, who, +steadfastly gazing on him, as if inspired by the Deity, uttered +these words:—“O, most beloved Lord Jesus Christ, I +return thee hearty thanks for having conferred on me the blessing +of bringing forth a son, whom thou mayest think worthy of thy +service.” Another woman at Aberteivi, of a very +different way of thinking, held her husband fast by his cloak and +girdle, and publicly and audaciously prevented him from going to +the archbishop to take the cross; but, three nights afterwards, +she heard a terrible voice, saying, “Thou hast taken away +my servant from me, therefore what thou most lovest shall be +taken away from thee.” On her relating this vision to +her husband, they were struck with mutual terror and amazement; +and on falling asleep again, she unhappily overlaid her little +boy, whom, with more affection than prudence, she had taken to +bed with her. The husband, relating to the bishop of the +diocese both the vision and its fatal prediction, took the cross, +<a name="page105"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 105</span>which +his wife spontaneously sewed on her husband’s arm.</p> +<p>Near the head of the bridge where the sermons were delivered, +the people immediately marked out the site for a chapel, <a +name="citation105a"></a><a href="#footnote105a" +class="citation">[105a]</a> on a verdant plain, as a memorial of +so great an event; intending that the altar should be placed on +the spot where the archbishop stood while addressing the +multitude; and it is well known that many miracles (the +enumeration of which would be too tedious to relate) were +performed on the crowds of sick people who resorted hither from +different parts of the country.</p> +<h3>CHAPTER III<br /> +<span class="GutSmall">OF THE RIVER TEIVI, CARDIGAN, AND +EMELYN</span></h3> +<p><span class="smcap">The</span> noble river Teivi flows here, +and abounds with the finest salmon, more than any other river of +Wales; it has a productive fishery near Cilgerran, which is +situated on the summit of a rock, at a place called Canarch Mawr, +<a name="citation105b"></a><a href="#footnote105b" +class="citation">[105b]</a> the ancient residence of St. Ludoc, +where the river, falling from a great height, forms a cataract, +which the salmon ascend, by leaping from the bottom to the top of +a rock, which is about the height of the longest spear, and would +appear wonderful, were it not the nature of that species of fish +to leap: hence they have received the name of salmon, from +<i>salio</i>. Their particular manner of leaping (as I have +specified in my Topography of Ireland) is thus: fish of this +kind, naturally swimming against the <a name="page106"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 106</span>course of the river (for as birds +fly against the wind, so do fish swim against the stream), on +meeting with any sudden obstacle, bend their tail towards their +mouth, and sometimes, in order to give a greater power to their +leap, they press it with their mouth, and suddenly freeing +themselves from this circular form, they spring with great force +(like a bow let loose) from the bottom to the top of the leap, to +the great astonishment of the beholders. The church +dedicated to St. Ludoc, <a name="citation106a"></a><a +href="#footnote106a" class="citation">[106a]</a> the mill, +bridge, salmon leap, an orchard with a delightful garden, all +stand together on a small plot of ground. The Teivi has +another singular particularity, being the only river in Wales, or +even in England, which has beavers; <a name="citation106b"></a><a +href="#footnote106b" class="citation">[106b]</a> in Scotland they +are said to be found in one river, but are very scarce. I +think it not a useless labour, to insert a few remarks respecting +the nature of these animals—the manner in which they bring +their materials from the woods to the water, and with what skill +they connect them in the construction of their dwellings in the +midst of rivers; their means of defence on the eastern and <a +name="page107"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 107</span>western +sides against hunters; and also concerning their fish-like +tails.</p> +<p>The beavers, in order to construct their castles in the middle +of rivers, make use of the animals of their own species instead +of carts, who, by a wonderful mode of carnage, convey the timber +from the woods to the rivers. Some of them, obeying the +dictates of nature, receive on their bellies the logs of wood cut +off by their associates, which they hold tight with their feet, +and thus with transverse pieces placed in their mouths, are drawn +along backwards, with their cargo, by other beavers, who fasten +themselves with their teeth to the raft. The moles use a +similar artifice in clearing out the dirt from the cavities they +form by scraping. In some deep and still corner of the +river, the beavers use such skill in the construction of their +habitations, that not a drop of water can penetrate, or the force +of storms shake them; nor do they fear any violence but that of +mankind, nor even that, unless well armed. They entwine the +branches of willows with other wood, and different kinds of +leaves, to the usual height of the water, and having made +within-side a communication from floor to floor, they elevate a +kind of stage, or scaffold, from which they may observe and watch +the rising of the waters. In the course of time, their +habitations bear the appearance of a grove of willow trees, rude +and natural without, but artfully constructed within. This +animal can remain in or under water at its pleasure, like the +frog or seal, who shew, by the smoothness or roughness of their +skins, the flux and reflux of the sea. These three animals, +therefore, live indifferently under the water, or in the air, and +have short legs, broad bodies, stubbed tails, and resemble the +mole in their corporal shape. It is worthy of remark, that +the beaver has but four teeth, two above, and two below, which +being broad and sharp, cut like a carpenter’s axe, and as +such he uses them. They make excavations and dry hiding +places in the banks near their dwellings, and when they hear the +<a name="page108"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 108</span>stroke +of the hunter, who with sharp poles endeavours to penetrate them, +they fly as soon as possible to the defence of their castle, +having first blown out the water from the entrance of the hole, +and rendered it foul and muddy by scraping the earth, in order +thus artfully to elude the stratagems of the well-armed hunter, +who is watching them from the opposite banks of the river. +When the beaver finds he cannot save himself from the pursuit of +the dogs who follow him, that he may ransom his body by the +sacrifice of a part, he throws away that, which by natural +instinct he knows to be the object sought for, and in the sight +of the hunter castrates himself, from which circumstance he has +gained the name of Castor; and if by chance the dogs should chase +an animal which had been previously castrated, he has the +sagacity to run to an elevated spot, and there lifting up his +leg, shews the hunter that the object of his pursuit is +gone. Cicero speaking of them says, “They ransom +themselves by that part of the body, for which they are chiefly +sought.” And Juvenal says,</p> +<blockquote><p>“—Qui se<br /> +Eunuchum ipse facit, cupiens evadere damno<br /> +Testiculi.”</p> +</blockquote> +<p>And St. Bernard,</p> +<blockquote><p>“Prodit enim castor proprio de corpore +velox<br /> + Reddere quas sequitur hostis avarus opes.”</p> +</blockquote> +<p>Thus, therefore, in order to preserve his skin, which is +sought after in the west, and the medicinal part of his body, +which is coveted in the east, although he cannot save himself +entirely, yet, by a wonderful instinct and sagacity, he +endeavours to avoid the stratagems of his pursuers. The +beavers have broad, short tails, thick, like the palm of a hand, +which they use as a rudder in swimming; and although the rest of +their body is hairy, this part, like that of seals, is without +hair, and smooth; upon which account, in Germany and the arctic +regions, where beavers abound, great and religious persons, in <a +name="page109"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 109</span>times of +fasting, eat the tails of this fish-like animal, as having both +the taste and colour of fish.</p> +<p>We proceeded on our journey from Cilgerran towards +Pont-Stephen, <a name="citation109a"></a><a href="#footnote109a" +class="citation">[109a]</a> leaving Cruc Mawr, <i>i.e.</i> the +great hill, near Aberteivi, on our left hand. On this spot +Gruffydd, son of Rhys ap Tewdwr, soon after the death of king +Henry I., by a furious onset gained a signal victory against the +English army, which, by the murder of the illustrious Richard de +Clare, near Abergevenny (before related), had lost its leader and +chief. <a name="citation109b"></a><a href="#footnote109b" +class="citation">[109b]</a> A tumulus is to be seen on the +summit of the aforesaid hill, and the inhabitants affirm that it +will adapt itself to persons of all stature and that if any +armour is left there entire in the evening, it will be found, +according to vulgar tradition, broken to pieces in the +morning.</p> +<h3>CHAPTER IV<br /> +<span class="GutSmall">OF THE JOURNEY BY PONT STEPHEN, THE ABBEY +OF STRATFLUR, LANDEWI BREVI, AND LHANPADARN VAWR</span></h3> +<p>A <span class="smcap">sermon</span> having been preached on +the following morning at Pont Stephen, <a +name="citation109c"></a><a href="#footnote109c" +class="citation">[109c]</a> by the archbishop and archdeacon, and +also by two abbots of the Cistercian order, John of Albadomus, +and Sisillus of Stratflur, <a name="citation109d"></a><a +href="#footnote109d" class="citation">[109d]</a> who faithfully +<a name="page110"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 110</span>attended +us in those parts, and as far as North Wales, many persons were +induced to take the cross. We proceeded to Stratflur, where +we passed the night. On the following morning, having on +our right the lofty mountains of Moruge, which in Welsh are +called Ellennith, <a name="citation110a"></a><a +href="#footnote110a" class="citation">[110a]</a> we were met near +the side of a wood by Cyneuric son of Rhys, accompanied by a body +of light-armed youths. This young man was of a fair +complexion, with curled hair, tall and handsome; clothed only, +according to the custom of his country, with a thin cloak and +inner garment, his legs and feet, regardless of thorns and +thistles were left bare; a man, not adorned by art, but nature; +bearing in his presence an innate, not an acquired, dignity of +manners. A sermon having been preached to these three young +men, Gruffydd, Malgon, and Cyneuric, in the presence of their +father, prince Rhys, and the brothers disputing about taking the +cross, at length Malgon strictly promised that he would accompany +the archbishop to the king’s court, and would obey the +king’s and archbishop’s counsel, unless prevented by +them. From thence we passed through Landewi Brevi, <a +name="citation110b"></a><a href="#footnote110b" +class="citation">[110b]</a> that is, the church of David of +Brevi, situated on the summit of that hill which had formerly +risen up under his feet whilst preaching, during the period of +that celebrated synod, when all the bishops, abbots, and clergy +of Wales, and many other persons, were collected <a +name="page111"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 111</span>thither on +account of the Pelagian heresy, which, although formerly exploded +from Britain by Germanus, bishop of Auxerre, had lately been +revived in these parts. At this place David was reluctantly +raised to the archbishopric, by the unanimous consent and +election of the whole assembly, who by loud acclamations +testified their admiration of so great a miracle. Dubricius +had a short time before resigned to him this honour in due form +at Caerleon, from which city the metropolitan see was transferred +to St. David’s.</p> +<p>Having rested that night at Lhanpadarn Vawr, <a +name="citation111"></a><a href="#footnote111" +class="citation">[111]</a> or the church of Paternus the Great, +we attracted many persons to the service of Christ on the +following morning. It is remarkable that this church, like +many others in Wales and Ireland, has a lay abbot; for a bad +custom has prevailed amongst the clergy, of appointing the most +powerful people of a parish stewards, or, rather, patrons, of +their churches; who, in process of time, from a desire of gain, +have usurped the whole right, appropriating to their own use the +possession of all the lands, leaving only to the clergy the +altars, with their tenths and oblations, and assigning even these +to their sons and relations in the church. Such defenders, +or rather destroyers, of the church, have caused themselves to be +called abbots, and presumed to attribute to themselves a title, +as well as estates, to which they have no just claim. In +this state we found the church of Lhanpadarn, without a +head. A certain old man, waxen old in iniquity (whose name +was Eden Oen, son of Gwaithwoed), being abbot, and his sons +officiating at the altar. But in the reign of king Henry +I., when the authority of the English prevailed in Wales, the +monastery of St. Peter at Gloucester held quiet possession of +this church; but after his death, the English being driven out, +the monks were expelled from their cloisters, and their places +supplied by the same <a name="page112"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 112</span>violent intrusion of clergy and +laity, which had formerly been practised. It happened that +in the reign of king Stephen, who succeeded Henry I., a knight, +born in Armorican Britain, having travelled through many parts of +the world, from a desire of seeing different cities, and the +manners of their inhabitants, came by chance to Lhanpadarn. +On a certain feast-day, whilst both the clergy and people were +waiting for the arrival of the abbot to celebrate mass, he +perceived a body of young men, armed, according to the custom of +their country, approaching towards the church; and on enquiring +which of them was the abbot, they pointed out to him a man +walking foremost, with a long spear in his hand. Gazing on +him with amazement, he asked, “If the abbot had not another +habit, or a different staff, from that which he now carried +before him?” On their answering, “No!” he +replied, “I have seen indeed and heard this day a wonderful +novelty!” and from that hour he returned home, and finished +his labours and researches. This wicked people boasts, that +a certain bishop <a name="citation112"></a><a href="#footnote112" +class="citation">[112]</a> of their church (for it formerly was a +cathedral) was murdered by their predecessors; and on this +account, chiefly, they ground their claims of right and +possession. No public complaint having been made against +their conduct, we have thought it more prudent to pass over, for +the present, the enormities of this wicked race with +dissimulation, than exasperate them by a further relation.</p> +<h3><a name="page113"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +113</span>CHAPTER V<br /> +<span class="GutSmall">OF THE RIVER DEVI, AND THE LAND OF THE +SONS OF CONAN</span></h3> +<p><span class="smcap">Approaching</span> to the river Devi, <a +name="citation113a"></a><a href="#footnote113a" +class="citation">[113a]</a> which divides North and South Wales, +the bishop of St. David’s, and Rhys the son of Gruffydd, +who with a liberality peculiarly praiseworthy in so illustrious a +prince, had accompanied us from the castle of Aberteivi, +throughout all Cardiganshire, to this place, returned home. +Having crossed the river in a boat, and quitted the diocese of +St. David’s, we entered the land of the sons of Conan, or +Merionyth, the first province of Venedotia on that side of the +country, and belonging to the bishopric of Bangor. <a +name="citation113b"></a><a href="#footnote113b" +class="citation">[113b]</a> We slept that night at +Towyn. Early next morning, Gruffydd son of Conan <a +name="citation113c"></a><a href="#footnote113c" +class="citation">[113c]</a> came to meet us, humbly and devoutly +asking pardon for having so long delayed his attention to the +archbishop. On the same day, we ferried over the bifurcate +river Maw, <a name="citation113d"></a><a href="#footnote113d" +class="citation">[113d]</a> where Malgo, son of Rhys, who had +attached himself to the archbishop, as a companion to the +king’s court, discovered a ford near <a +name="page114"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 114</span>the +sea. That night we lay at Llanvair, <a +name="citation114a"></a><a href="#footnote114a" +class="citation">[114a]</a> that is the church of St. Mary, in +the province of Ardudwy. <a name="citation114b"></a><a +href="#footnote114b" class="citation">[114b]</a> This +territory of Conan, and particularly Merionyth, is the rudest and +roughest district of all Wales; the ridges of its mountains are +very high and narrow, terminating in sharp peaks, and so +irregularly jumbled together, that if the shepherds conversing or +disputing with each other from their summits, should agree to +meet, they could scarcely effect their purpose in the course of +the whole day. The lances of this country are very long; +for as South Wales excels in the use of the bow, so North Wales +is distinguished for its skill in the lance; insomuch that an +iron coat of mail will not resist the stroke of a lance thrown at +a small distance. The next morning, the youngest son of +Conan, named Meredyth, met us at the passage of a bridge, +attended by his people, where many persons were signed with the +cross; amongst whom was a fine young man of his suite, and one of +his intimate friends; and Meredyth, observing that the cloak, on +which the cross was to be sewed, appeared of too thin and of too +common a texture, with a flood of tears, threw him down his +own.</p> +<h3><a name="page115"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +115</span>CHAPTER VI<br /> +<span class="GutSmall">PASSAGE OF TRAETH MAWR AND TRAETH BACHAN, +AND OF NEVYN, CARNARVON, AND BANGOR</span></h3> +<p><span class="smcap">We</span> continued our journey over the +Traeth Mawr, <a name="citation115a"></a><a href="#footnote115a" +class="citation">[115a]</a> and Traeth Bachan, <a +name="citation115b"></a><a href="#footnote115b" +class="citation">[115b]</a> that is, the greater and the smaller +arm of the sea, where two stone castles have newly been erected; +one called Deudraeth, belonging to the sons of Conan, situated in +Evionyth, towards the northern mountains; the other named Carn +Madryn, the property of the sons of Owen, built on the other side +of the river towards the sea, on the head-land Lleyn. <a +name="citation115c"></a><a href="#footnote115c" +class="citation">[115c]</a> Traeth, in the Welsh language, +signifies a tract of sand flooded by the tides, and left bare +when the sea ebbs. We had before passed over the noted +rivers, the Dissenith, <a name="citation115d"></a><a +href="#footnote115d" class="citation">[115d]</a> between the Maw +and Traeth Mawr, and the Arthro, between the Traeth Mawr and +Traeth Bachan. We slept that night at Nevyn, on the eve of +Palm Sunday, where the archdeacon, after long inquiry and +research, is said to have found Merlin Sylvestris. <a +name="citation115e"></a><a href="#footnote115e" +class="citation">[115e]</a></p> +<p><a name="page116"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +116</span>Beyond Lleyn, there is a small island inhabited by very +religious monks, called Cælibes, or Colidei. This +island, either from the wholesomeness of its climate, owing to +its vicinity to Ireland, or rather from some miracle obtained by +the merits of the saints, has this wonderful peculiarity, that +the oldest people die first, because diseases are uncommon, and +scarcely any die except from extreme old age. Its name is +Enlli in the Welsh, and Berdesey <a name="citation116a"></a><a +href="#footnote116a" class="citation">[116a]</a> in the Saxon +language; and very many bodies of saints are said to be buried +there, and amongst them that of Daniel, bishop of Bangor.</p> +<p>The archbishop having, by his sermon the next day, induced +many persons to take the cross, we proceeded towards Banchor, +passing through Caernarvon, <a name="citation116b"></a><a +href="#footnote116b" class="citation">[116b]</a> that is, the +castle of Arvon; it is called Arvon, the province opposite to +Môn, because it is so situated with respect to the island +of Mona. Our road leading us to a steep valley, <a +name="citation116c"></a><a href="#footnote116c" +class="citation">[116c]</a> with many broken ascents and +descents, we dismounted <a name="page117"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 117</span>from our horses, and proceeded on +foot, rehearsing, as it were, by agreement, some experiments of +our intended pilgrimage to Jerusalem. Having traversed the +valley, and reached the opposite side with considerable fatigue, +the archbishop, to rest himself and recover his breath, sat down +on an oak which had been torn up by the violence of the winds; +and relaxing into a pleasantry highly laudable in a person of his +approved gravity, thus addressed his attendants: “Who +amongst you, in this company, can now delight our wearied ears by +whistling?” which is not easily done by people out of +breath. He affirming that he could, if he thought fit, the +sweet notes are heard, in an adjoining wood, of a bird, which +some said was a woodpecker, and others, more correctly, an +aureolus. The woodpecker is called in French, <i>spec</i>, +and with its strong bill, perforates oak trees; the other bird in +called aureolus, from the golden tints of its feathers, and at +certain seasons utters a sweet whistling note instead of a +song. Some persons having remarked, that the nightingale +was never heard in this country, the archbishop, with a +significant smile, replied, “The nightingale followed wise +counsel, and never came into Wales; but we, unwise counsel, who +have penetrated and gone through it.” We remained +that night at Banchor, <a name="citation117"></a><a +href="#footnote117" class="citation">[117]</a> <a +name="page118"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 118</span>the +metropolitan see of North Wales, and were well entertained by the +bishop of the diocese. <a name="citation118a"></a><a +href="#footnote118a" class="citation">[118a]</a> On the +next day, mass being celebrated by the archbishop before the high +altar, the bishop of that see, at the instance of the archbishop +and other persons, more importunate than persuasive, was +compelled to take the cross, to the general concern of all his +people of both sexes, who expressed their grief on this occasion +by loud and lamentable vociferations.</p> +<h3>CHAPTER VII<br /> +<span class="GutSmall">THE ISLAND OF MONA</span></h3> +<p><span class="smcap">From</span> hence, we crossed over a small +arm of the sea to the island of Mona, <a +name="citation118b"></a><a href="#footnote118b" +class="citation">[118b]</a> distant from thence about two miles, +where Roderic, the younger son of Owen, attended by nearly all +the inhabitants of the island, and many others from the adjacent +countries, came in a devout manner to meet us. Confession +having been made in a place near the shore, where the surrounding +rocks seemed to form a natural theatre, <a +name="citation118c"></a><a href="#footnote118c" +class="citation">[118c]</a> many persons were <a +name="page119"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 119</span>induced to +take the cross, by the persuasive discourses of the archbishop, +and Alexander, our interpreter, archdeacon of that place, and of +Sisillus, abbot of Stratflur. Many chosen youths of the +family of Roderic were seated on an opposite rock, and not one of +them could be prevailed upon to take the cross, although the +archbishop and others most earnestly exhorted them, but in vain, +by an address particularly directed to them. It came to +pass within three days, as if by divine vengeance, that these +young men, with many others, pursued some robbers of that +country. Being discomfited and put to flight, some were +slain, others mortally wounded, and the survivors voluntarily +assumed that cross they had before despised. Roderic, also, +who a short time before had incestuously married the daughter of +Rhys, related to him by blood in the third degree, in order, by +the assistance of that prince, to be better able to defend +himself against the sons of his brothers, whom he had +disinherited, not paying attention to the wholesome admonitions +of the archbishop on this subject, was a little while afterwards +dispossessed of all his lands by their means; thus deservedly +meeting with disappointment from the very source from which he +expected support. The <a name="page120"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 120</span>island of Mona contains three +hundred and forty-three vills, considered equal to three +cantreds. Cantred, a compound word from the British and +Irish languages, is a portion of land equal to one hundred +vills. There are three islands contiguous to Britain, on +its different sides, which are said to be nearly of an equal +size—the Isle of Wight on the south, Mona on the west, and +Mania (Man) on the north-west side. The two first are +separated from Britain by narrow channels; the third is much +further removed, lying almost midway between the countries of +Ulster in Ireland and Galloway in Scotland. The island of +Mona is an arid and stony land, rough and unpleasant in its +appearance, similar in its exterior qualities to the land of +Pebidion, <a name="citation120a"></a><a href="#footnote120a" +class="citation">[120a]</a> near St. David’s, but very +different as to its interior value. For this island is +incomparably more fertile in corn than any other part of Wales, +from whence arose the British proverb, “Mon mam Cymbry, +Mona mother of Wales;” and when the crops have been +defective in all other parts of the country, this island, from +the richness of its soil and abundant produce, has been able to +supply all Wales.</p> +<p>As many things within this island are worthy of remark, I +shall not think it superfluous to make mention of some of +them. There is a stone here resembling a human thigh, <a +name="citation120b"></a><a href="#footnote120b" +class="citation">[120b]</a> which possesses this innate virtue, +that whatever distance it may be carried, it returns, of its own +accord, the following night, as has often been experienced by the +inhabitants. Hugh, earl of Chester, <a +name="citation120c"></a><a href="#footnote120c" +class="citation">[120c]</a> <a name="page121"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 121</span>in the reign of king Henry I., +having by force occupied this island and the adjacent country, +heard of the miraculous power of this stone, and, for the purpose +of trial, ordered it to be fastened, with strong iron chains, to +one of a larger size, and to be thrown into the sea. On the +following morning, however, according to custom, it was found in +its original position, on which account the earl issued a public +edict, that no one, from that time, should presume to move the +stone from its place. A countryman, also, to try the powers +of this stone, fastened it to his thigh, which immediately became +putrid, and the stone returned to its original situation.</p> +<p>There is in the same island a stony hill, not very large or +high, from one side of which, if you cry aloud, you will not be +heard on the other; and it is called (by anti-phrasis) the rock +of hearers. In the northern part of Great Britain +(Northumberland) so named by the English, from its situation +beyond the river Humber, there is a hill of a similar nature, +where if a loud horn or trumpet is sounded on one side, it cannot +be heard on the opposite one. There is also in this island +the church of St. Tefredaucus, <a name="citation121"></a><a +href="#footnote121" class="citation">[121]</a> into which Hugh, +earl of Shrewsbury, (who, together with the earl of Chester, had +forcibly entered Anglesey), on a certain night put some dogs, +which on the following morning were found mad, and he himself +died within a month; for some pirates, from the Orcades, having +entered the port of the island in their long vessels, the earl, +apprised of their approach, boldly met them, rushing into the sea +upon a spirited horse. <a name="page122"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 122</span>The commander of the expedition, +Magnus, standing on the prow of the foremost ship, aimed an arrow +at him; and, although the earl was completely equipped in a coat +of mail, and guarded in every part of his body except his eyes, +the unlucky weapon struck his right eye, and, entering his brain, +he fell a lifeless corpse into the sea. The victor, seeing +him in this state, proudly and exultingly exclaimed, in the +Danish tongue, “Leit loup,” let him leap; and from +this time the power of the English ceased in Anglesey. In +our times, also, when Henry II. was leading an army into North +Wales, where he had experienced the ill fortune of war in a +narrow, woody pass near Coleshulle, he sent a fleet into +Anglesey, and began to plunder the aforesaid church, and other +sacred places. But the divine vengeance pursued him, for +the inhabitants rushed upon the invaders, few against many, +unarmed against armed; and having slain great numbers, and taken +many prisoners, gained a most complete and bloody victory. +For, as our Topography of Ireland testifies, that the Welsh and +Irish are more prone to anger and revenge than any other nations, +the saints, likewise, of those countries appear to be of a more +vindictive nature.</p> +<p>Two noble persons, and uncles of the author of this book, were +sent thither by the king; namely, Henry, son of king Henry I., +and uncle to king Henry II., by Nest, daughter of Rhys, prince of +South Wales; and Robert Fitz-Stephen, brother to Henry, a man who +in our days, shewing the way to others, first attacked Ireland, +and whose fame is recorded in our Vaticinal History. Henry, +actuated by too much valour, and ill supported, was pierced by a +lance, and fell amongst the foremost, to the great concern of his +attendants; and Robert, despairing of being able to defend +himself, was badly wounded, and escaped with difficulty to the +ships.</p> +<p>There is a small island, almost adjoining to Anglesey, which +is inhabited by hermits, living by manual labour, and serving +God. It is remarkable that when, by the <a +name="page123"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 123</span>influence +of human passions, any discord arises among them, all their +provisions are devoured and infected by a species of small mice, +with which the island abounds; but when the discord ceases, they +are no longer molested. Nor is it to be wondered at, if the +servants of God sometimes disagree, since Jacob and Esau +contended in the womb of Rebecca, and Paul and Barnabas differed; +the disciples also of Jesus disputed which of them should be the +greatest, for these are the temptations of human infirmity; yet +virtue is often made perfect by infirmity, and faith is increased +by tribulations. This island is called in Welsh, Ynys +Lenach, <a name="citation123a"></a><a href="#footnote123a" +class="citation">[123a]</a> or the ecclesiastical island, because +many bodies of saints are deposited there, and no woman is +suffered to enter it.</p> +<p>We saw in Anglesey a dog, who accidentally had lost his tail, +and whose whole progeny bore the same defect. It is +wonderful that nature should, as it were, conform itself in this +particular to the accident of the father. We saw also a +knight, named Earthbald, born in Devonshire, whose father, +denying the child with which his mother was pregnant, and from +motives of jealousy accusing her of inconstancy, nature alone +decided the controversy by the birth of the child, who, by a +miracle, exhibited on his upper lip a scar, similar to one his +father bore in consequence of a wound he had received from a +lance in one of his military expeditions. Stephen, the son +of Earthbald, had a similar mark, the accident being in a manner +converted into nature. A like miracle of nature occurred in +earl Alberic, son of Alberic earl of Veer, <a +name="citation123b"></a><a href="#footnote123b" +class="citation">[123b]</a> whose father, during the pregnancy of +his <a name="page124"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +124</span>mother, the daughter of Henry of Essex, having laboured +to procure a divorce, on account of the ignominy of her father, +the child, when born, had the same blemish in its eye, as the +father had got from a casual hurt. These defects may be +entailed on the offspring, perhaps, by the impression made on the +memory by frequent and steady observation; as it is reported that +a queen, accustomed to see the picture of a negro in her chamber, +unexpectedly brought forth a black child, and is exculpated by +Quintilian, on account of the picture. In like manner it +happened to the spotted sheep, given by Laban out of his flock to +his nephew Jacob, and which conceived by means of variegated +rods. <a name="citation124"></a><a href="#footnote124" +class="citation">[124]</a> Nor is the child always affected +by the mother’s imagination alone, but sometimes by that of +the father; for it is well known that a man, seeing a passenger +near him, who was convulsed both behind and before, on going home +and telling his wife that he could not get the impression of this +sight off his mind, begat a child who was affected in a similar +manner.</p> +<h3><a name="page125"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +125</span>CHAPTER VIII<br /> +<span class="GutSmall">PASSAGE OF THE RIVER CONWY IN A BOAT, AND +OF DINAS EMRYS</span></h3> +<p><span class="smcap">On</span> our return to Banchor from Mona, +we were shown the tombs of prince Owen and his younger brother +Cadwalader, <a name="citation125a"></a><a href="#footnote125a" +class="citation">[125a]</a> who were buried in a double vault +before the high altar, although Owen, on account of his public +incest with his cousin-german, had died excommunicated by the +blessed martyr St. Thomas, the bishop of that see having been +enjoined to seize a proper opportunity of removing his body from +the church. We continued our journey on the sea coast, +confined on one side by steep rocks, and by the sea on the other, +towards the river Conwy, which preserves its waters unadulterated +by the sea. Not far from the source of the river Conwy, at +the head of the Eryri mountain, which on this side extends itself +towards the north, stands Dinas Emrys, that is, the promontory of +Ambrosius, where Merlin <a name="citation125b"></a><a +href="#footnote125b" class="citation">[125b]</a> uttered his +prophecies, whilst Vortigern was seated upon the bank. +There were two Merlins; the one called Ambrosius who prophesied +in the time of king Vortigern, <a name="page126"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 126</span>was begotten by a demon incubus, and +found at Caermardin, from which circumstance that city derived +its name of Caermardin, or the city of Merlin; the other Merlin, +born in Scotland, was named Celidonius, from the Celidonian wood +in which he prophesied; and Sylvester, because when engaged in +martial conflict, he discovered in the air a terrible monster, +and from that time grew mad, and taking shelter in a wood, passed +the remainder of his days in a savage state. This Merlin +lived in the time of king Arthur, and is said to have prophesied +more fully and explicitly than the other. I shall pass over +in silence what was done by the sons of Owen in our days, after +his death, or while he was dying, who, from the wicked desire of +reigning, totally disregarded the ties of fraternity; but I shall +not omit mentioning another event which occurred likewise in our +days. Owen, <a name="citation126"></a><a +href="#footnote126" class="citation">[126]</a> son of Gruffyth, +prince of North Wales, had many sons, but only one legitimate, +namely, Iorwerth Drwyndwn, which in Welsh means flat-nosed, who +had a son named Llewelyn. This young man, being only twelve +years of age, began, during the period of our journey, to molest +his uncles David and Roderic, the sons of Owen by Christiana, his +cousin-german; and although they had divided amongst themselves +all North Wales, except the land of Conan, and although David, +having married the sister of king Henry II., by whom he had one +son, was powerfully supported by the English, yet within a few +years the legitimate son, destitute of lands or money (by the aid +of divine vengeance), bravely expelled from North Wales those who +were born in public incest, though supported by their own wealth +and by that of <a name="page127"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +127</span>others, leaving them nothing but what the liberality of +his own mind and the counsel of good men from pity suggested: a +proof that adulterous and incestuous persons are displeasing to +God.</p> +<h3>CHAPTER IX<br /> +<span class="GutSmall">OF THE MOUNTAINS OF ERYRI</span></h3> +<p>I <span class="smcap">must</span> not pass over in silence the +mountains called by the Welsh Eryri, but by the English Snowdon, +or Mountains of Snow, which gradually increasing from the land of +the sons of Conan, and extending themselves northwards near +Deganwy, seem to rear their lofty summits even to the clouds, +when viewed from the opposite coast of Anglesey. They are +said to be of so great an extent, that according to an ancient +proverb, “As Mona could supply corn for all the inhabitants +of Wales, so could the Eryri mountains afford sufficient pasture +for all the herds, if collected together.” Hence +these lines of Virgil may be applied to them:—</p> +<blockquote><p>“Et quantum longis carpent armenta +diebus,<br /> +Exigua tautum gelidus ros nocte reponet.”</p> +<p>“And what is cropt by day the night renews,<br /> +Shedding refreshful stores of cooling dews.”</p> +</blockquote> +<p>On the highest parts of these mountains are two lakes worthy +of admiration. The one has a floating island in it, which +is often driven from one side to the other by the force of the +winds; and the shepherds behold with astonishment their cattle, +whilst feeding, carried to the distant parts of the lake. A +part of the bank naturally bound together by the roots of willows +and other shrubs may have been broken off, and increased by the +alluvion of the earth from the shore; and being continually <a +name="page128"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 128</span>agitated by +the winds, which in so elevated a situation blow with great +violence, it cannot reunite itself firmly with the banks. +The other lake is noted for a wonderful and singular +miracle. It contains three sorts of fish—eels, trout, +and perch, all of which have only one eye, the left being +wanting; but if the curious reader should demand of me the +explanation of so extraordinary a circumstance, I cannot presume +to satisfy him. It is remarkable also, that in two places +in Scotland, one near the eastern, the other near the western +sea, the fish called mullets possess the same defect, having no +left eye. According to vulgar tradition, these mountains +are frequented by an eagle who, perching on a fatal stone every +fifth holiday, in order to satiate her hunger with the carcases +of the slain, is said to expect war on that same day, and to have +almost perforated the stone by cleaning and sharpening her +beak.</p> +<h3>CHAPTER X<br /> +<span class="GutSmall">OF THE PASSAGE BY DEGANWY AND RUTHLAN, AND +THE SEE OF LANELWY, AND OF COLESHULLE</span></h3> +<p><span class="smcap">Having</span> crossed the river Conwy, <a +name="citation128a"></a><a href="#footnote128a" +class="citation">[128a]</a> or rather an arm of the sea, under +Deganwy, leaving the Cistercian monastery of Conwy <a +name="citation128b"></a><a href="#footnote128b" +class="citation">[128b]</a> on the western bank of the river to +our right hand, we arrived at Ruthlan, a noble castle on the <a +name="page129"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 129</span>river +Cloyd, belonging to David, the eldest son of Owen <a +name="citation129a"></a><a href="#footnote129a" +class="citation">[129a]</a> where, at the earnest invitation of +David himself, we were handsomely entertained that night.</p> +<p>There is a spring not far from Ruthlan, in the province of +Tegengel, <a name="citation129b"></a><a href="#footnote129b" +class="citation">[129b]</a> which not only regularly ebbs and +flows like the sea, twice in twenty-four hours, but at other +times frequently rises and falls both by night and day. +Trogus Pompeius says, “that there is a town of the +Garamantes, where there is a spring which is hot and cold +alternately by day and night.” <a +name="citation129c"></a><a href="#footnote129c" +class="citation">[129c]</a></p> +<p>Many persons in the morning having been persuaded to dedicate +themselves to the service of Christ, we proceeded from Ruthlan to +the small cathedral church of Lanelwy; <a +name="citation129d"></a><a href="#footnote129d" +class="citation">[129d]</a> from whence (the archbishop having +celebrated mass) we continued our journey through a country rich +in minerals of silver, where money is sought in the bowels of the +earth, to the little cell of Basinwerk, <a +name="citation129e"></a><a href="#footnote129e" +class="citation">[129e]</a> where we passed the night. The +following day we traversed a long quicksand, and not without some +degree of apprehension, leaving the woody district of Coleshulle, +<a name="citation129f"></a><a href="#footnote129f" +class="citation">[129f]</a> or hill of coal, on our right hand, +where Henry II., who in our time, actuated by youthful and +indiscreet ardour, made a hostile irruption into Wales, and +presuming to pass through that narrow and woody defile, +experienced a signal defeat, and a very heavy loss <a +name="page130"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 130</span>of men. <a +name="citation130"></a><a href="#footnote130" +class="citation">[130]</a> The aforesaid king invaded Wales +three times with an army; first, North Wales at the +above-mentioned place; secondly, South Wales, by the sea-coast of +Glamorgan and Goer, penetrating as far as Caermarddin and +Pencadair, and returning by Ellennith and Melenith; and thirdly, +the country of Powys, near Oswaldestree; but in all these +expeditions the king was unsuccessful, because he placed no +confidence in the prudent and well-informed chieftains of the +country, but was principally advised by people remote from the +marches, and ignorant of the manners and customs of the +natives. In every expedition, as the artificer is to be +trusted in his trade, so the advice of those people should be +consulted, who, by a long residence in the country, are become +conversant with the manners and customs of the natives; and to +whom it is of high importance that the power of the hostile +nation, with whom, by a long and continued warfare, they have +contracted an implacable enmity and hatred, should be weakened or +destroyed, as we have set forth in our Vaticinal History.</p> +<p>In this wood of Coleshulle, a young Welshman was killed while +passing through the king’s army; the greyhound who +accompanied him did not desert his master’s corpse for +eight days, though without food; but faithfully defended it from +the attacks of dogs, wolves, and birds of prey, with a wonderful +attachment. What son to his father, what Nisus to Euryalus, +what Polynices to Tydeus, what Orestes to Pylades, would have +shewn such an affectionate regard? As a mark of favour to +the dog, who was almost starved to death, the English, although +bitter enemies to the Welsh, ordered the body, now nearly putrid, +to be deposited in the ground with the accustomed offices of +humanity.</p> +<h3><a name="page131"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +131</span>CHAPTER XI<br /> +<span class="GutSmall">OF THE PASSAGE OF THE RIVER DEE, AND OF +CHESTER</span></h3> +<p><span class="smcap">Having</span> crossed the river Dee below +Chester, (which the Welsh call Doverdwy), on the third day before +Easter, or the day of absolution (holy Thursday), we reached +Chester. As the river Wye towards the south separates Wales +from England, so the Dee near Chester forms the northern +boundary. The inhabitants of these parts assert, that the +waters of this river change their fords every month, and, as it +inclines more towards England or Wales, they can, with certainty, +prognosticate which nation will be successful or unfortunate +during the year. This river derives its origin from the +lake Penmelesmere, <a name="citation131a"></a><a +href="#footnote131a" class="citation">[131a]</a> and, although it +abounds with salmon, yet none are found in the lake. It is +also remarkable, that this river is never swollen by rains, but +often rises by the violence of the winds.</p> +<p>Chester boasts of being the burial-place of Henry, <a +name="citation131b"></a><a href="#footnote131b" +class="citation">[131b]</a> a Roman emperor, who, after having +imprisoned his carnal and spiritual father, pope Paschal, gave +himself up to penitence; and, becoming a voluntary exile in this +country, ended his days in solitary retirement. It is also +asserted, that the remains of Harold are here deposited. He +was the last of the Saxon kings in England, and as a punishment +for his perjury, was defeated in the battle of Hastings, fought +against the Normans. Having received many wounds, and lost +his left eye by an <a name="page132"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +132</span>arrow in that engagement, he is said to have escaped to +these parts, where, in holy conversation, leading the life of an +anchorite, and being a constant attendant at one of the churches +of this city, he is believed to have terminated his days happily. +<a name="citation132"></a><a href="#footnote132" +class="citation">[132]</a> The truth of these two +circumstances was declared (and not before known) by the dying +confession of each party. We saw here, what appeared novel +to us, cheese made of deer’s milk; for the countess and her +mother keeping tame deer, presented to the archbishop three small +cheeses made from their milk.</p> +<p>In this same country was produced, in our time, a cow +partaking of the nature of a stag, resembling its mother in the +fore parts and the stag in its hips, legs, and feet, and having +the skin and colour of the stag; but, partaking more of the +nature of the domestic than of the wild animal, it remained with +the herd of cattle. A bitch also was pregnant by a monkey, +and produced a litter of whelps resembling a monkey before, and +the dog behind; which the rustic keeper of the military hall +seeing with astonishment and abhorrence, immediately killed with +the stick he carried in his hand; thereby incurring the severe +resentment and anger of his lord, when the latter became +acquainted with the circumstance.</p> +<p>In our time, also, a woman was born in Chester without hands, +to whom nature had supplied a remedy for that defect by the +flexibility and delicacy of the joints of her feet, with which +she could sew, or perform any work with thread or scissors, as +well as other women.</p> +<h3><a name="page133"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +133</span>CHAPTER XII<br /> +<span class="GutSmall">OF THE JOURNEY BY THE WHITE MONASTERY, +OSWALDESTREE, POWYS, AND SHREWSBURY</span></h3> +<p><span class="smcap">The</span> feast of Easter having been +observed with due solemnity, and many persons, by the +exhortations of the archbishop, signed with the cross, we +directed our way from Chester to the White Monastery, <a +name="citation133a"></a><a href="#footnote133a" +class="citation">[133a]</a> and from thence towards Oswaldestree; +where, on the very borders of Powys, we were met by Gruffydd son +of Madoc, and Elissa, princes of that country, and many others; +some few of whom having been persuaded to take the cross (for +several of the multitude had been previously signed by Reiner, <a +name="citation133b"></a><a href="#footnote133b" +class="citation">[133b]</a> the bishop of that place), Gruffydd, +prince of the district, publicly adjured, in the presence of the +archbishop, his cousin-german, Angharad, daughter of prince Owen, +whom, according to the vicious custom of the country, he had long +considered as his wife. We slept at Oswaldestree, or the +tree of St. Oswald, and were most sumptuously entertained after +the English manner, by William Fitz-Alan, <a +name="citation133c"></a><a href="#footnote133c" +class="citation">[133c]</a> a noble and liberal <a +name="page134"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 134</span>young +man. A short time before, whilst Reiner was preaching, a +robust youth being earnestly exhorted to follow the example of +his companions in taking the cross, answered, “I will not +follow your advice until, with this lance which I bear in my +hand, I shall have avenged the death of my lord,” alluding +to Owen, son of Madoc, a distinguished warrior, who had been +maliciously and treacherously slain by Owen Cyfeilioc, his +cousin-german; and while he was thus venting his anger and +revenge, and violently brandishing his lance, it suddenly snapped +asunder, and fell disjointed in several pieces to the ground, the +handle only remaining in his hand. Alarmed and astonished +at this omen, which he considered as a certain signal for his +taking the cross, he voluntarily offered his services.</p> +<p>In this third district of Wales, called Powys, there are most +excellent studs put apart for breeding, and deriving their origin +from some fine Spanish horses, which Robert de Belesme, <a +name="citation134a"></a><a href="#footnote134a" +class="citation">[134a]</a> earl of Shrewsbury, brought into this +country: on which account the horses sent from hence are +remarkable for their majestic proportion and astonishing +fleetness.</p> +<p>Here king Henry II. entered Powys, in our days, upon an +expensive, though fruitless, expedition. <a +name="citation134b"></a><a href="#footnote134b" +class="citation">[134b]</a> Having dismembered the hostages +whom he had previously received, he was compelled, by a sudden +and violent fall <a name="page135"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +135</span>of rain, to retreat with his army. On the +preceding day, the chiefs of the English army had burned some of +the Welsh churches, with the villages and churchyards; upon which +the sons of Owen the Great, with their light-armed troops, +stirred up the resentment of their father and the other princes +of the country, declaring that they would never in future spare +any churches of the English. When nearly the whole army was +on the point of assenting to this determination, Owen, a man of +distinguished wisdom and moderation—the tumult being in +some degree subsided—thus spake: “My opinion, indeed, +by no means agrees with yours, for we ought to rejoice at this +conduct of our adversary; for, unless supported by divine +assistance, we are far inferior to the English; and they, by +their behaviour, have made God their enemy, who is able most +powerfully to avenge both himself and us. We therefore most +devoutly promise God that we will henceforth pay greater +reverence than ever to churches and holy places.” +After which, the English army, on the following night, +experienced (as has before been related) the divine +vengeance.</p> +<p>From Oswaldestree, we directed our course towards Shrewsbury +(<i>Salopesburia</i>), which is nearly surrounded by the river +Severn, where we remained a few days to rest and refresh +ourselves; and where many people were induced to take the cross, +through the elegant sermons of the archbishop and +archdeacon. We also excommunicated Owen de Cevelioc, +because he alone, amongst the Welsh princes, did not come to meet +the archbishop with his people. Owen was a man of more +fluent speech than his contemporary princes, and was conspicuous +for the good management of his territory. Having generally +favoured the royal cause, and opposed the measures of his own +chieftains, he had contracted a great familiarity with king Henry +II. Being with the king at table at Shrewsbury, Henry, as a +mark of peculiar honour and regard, sent him one of his own +loaves; he immediately brake it into small pieces, like +alms-bread, and having, <a name="page136"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 136</span>like an almoner, placed them at a +distance from him, he took them up one by one and ate them. +The king requiring an explanation of this proceeding, Owen, with +a smile, replied, “I thus follow the example of my +lord;” keenly alluding to the avaricious disposition of the +king, who was accustomed to retain for a long time in his own +hands the vacant ecclesiastical benefices.</p> +<p>It is to be remarked that three princes, <a +name="citation136"></a><a href="#footnote136" +class="citation">[136]</a> distinguished for their justice, +wisdom, and princely moderation, ruled, <a +name="page137"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 137</span>in our +time, over the three provinces of Wales: Owen, son of Gruffydd, +in Venedotia, or North Wales; Meredyth, his grandson, son of +Gruffydd, who died early in life, in South Wales; and Owen de +Cevelioc, in Powys. But two other princes were highly +celebrated for their generosity; Cadwalader, son of Gruffydd, in +North Wales, and Gruffydd of Maelor, son of Madoc, in Powys; and +Rhys, son of Gruffydd, in South Wales, deserved commendation for +his enterprising and independent spirit. In North Wales, +David, son of Owen, and on the borders of Morgannoc, in South +Wales, Howel, son of Iorwerth of Caerleon, maintained their good +faith and credit, by observing a strict neutrality between the +Welsh and English.</p> +<h3>CHAPTER XIII<br /> +<span class="GutSmall">OF THE JOURNEY BY WENLOCH, BRUMFELD, THE +CASTLE OF LUDLOW, AND LEOMINSTER, TO HEREFORD</span></h3> +<p><span class="smcap">From</span> Shrewsbury, we continued our +journey towards Wenloch, by a narrow and rugged way, called +Evil-street, where, in our time, a Jew, travelling with the +archdeacon of the place, whose name was Sin (<i>Peccatum</i>), +and the dean, whose name was Devil, towards Shrewsbury, hearing +the archdeacon say, that his archdeaconry began at a place called +Evil-street, and extended as far as Mal-pas, towards Chester, +pleasantly told them, “It would be a miracle, if his fate +brought him safe out of a country, whose archdeacon was Sin, +whose dean the devil; the entrance to the archdeaconry +Evil-street, and its exit Bad-pass.” <a +name="citation137"></a><a href="#footnote137" +class="citation">[137]</a></p> +<p>From Wenloch, we passed by the little cell of Brumfeld, <a +name="citation138"></a><a href="#footnote138" +class="citation">[138]</a> <a name="page138"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 138</span>the noble castle of Ludlow, through +Leominster to Hereford leaving on our right hand the districts of +Melenyth and Elvel; thus (describing as it were a circle) we came +to the same point from which we had commenced this laborious +journey through Wales.</p> +<p>During this long and laudable legation, about three thousand +men were signed with the cross; well skilled in the use of arrows +and lances, and versed in military matters; impatient to attack +the enemies of the faith; profitably and happily engaged for the +service of Christ, if the expedition of the Holy Cross had been +forwarded with an alacrity equal to the diligence and devotion +with which the forces were collected. But by the secret, +though never unjust, judgment of God, the journey of the Roman +emperor was delayed, and dissensions arose amongst our +kings. The premature and fatal hand of death arrested the +king of Sicily, who had been the foremost sovereign in supplying +the holy land with corn and provisions during the period of their +distress. In consequence of his death, violent contentions +arose amongst our princes respecting their several rights to the +kingdom; and the faithful beyond sea suffered severely by want +and famine, surrounded on all sides by enemies, and most +anxiously waiting for supplies. But as affliction may +strengthen the understanding, as gold is tried by fire, and +virtue may be confirmed in weakness, these things are suffered to +happen; since adversity (as Gregory testifies) opposed to good +prayers is the probation of virtue, not the judgment of +reproof. For who does not know how fortunate a circumstance +it was that <a name="page139"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +139</span>Paul went to Italy, and suffered so dreadful a +shipwreck? But the ship of his heart remained unbroken +amidst the waves of the sea.</p> +<h3>CHAPTER XIV<br /> +<span class="GutSmall">A DESCRIPTION OF BALDWIN, ARCHBISHOP OF +CANTERBURY</span> <a name="citation139"></a><a +href="#footnote139" class="citation">[139]</a></h3> +<p><span class="smcap">Let</span> it not be thought superfluous +to describe the exterior and inward qualities of that person, the +particulars of whose embassy, and as it were holy peregrination, +we have briefly and succinctly related. He was a man of a +dark complexion, of an open and venerable countenance, of a +moderate stature, a good person, and rather inclined to be thin +than corpulent. He was a modest and grave man, of so great +abstinence and continence, that ill report scarcely ever presumed +to say any thing against him; a man of few words; slow to anger, +temperate and moderate in all his passions and affections; swift +to hear, slow to speak; he was from an early age well instructed +in literature, and bearing the yoke of the Lord from his youth, +by the purity of his morals became a distinguished luminary to +the people; wherefore voluntarily resigning the honour of the +archlevite, <a name="citation140"></a><a href="#footnote140" +class="citation">[140]</a> <a name="page140"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 140</span>which he had canonically obtained, +and despising the pomps and vanities of the world, he assumed +with holy devotion the habit of the Cistercian order; and as he +had been formerly more than a monk in his manners, within the +space of a year he was appointed abbot, and in a few years +afterwards preferred first to a bishopric, and then to an +archbishopric; and having been found faithful in a little, had +authority given him over much. But, as Cicero says, +“Nature had made nothing entirely perfect;” when he +came into power, not laying aside that sweet innate benignity +which he had always shewn when a private man, sustaining his +people with his staff rather than chastising them with rods, +feeding them as it were with the milk of a mother, and not making +use of the scourges of the father, he incurred public scandal for +his remissness. So great was his lenity that he put an end +to all pastoral rigour; and was a better monk than abbot, a +better bishop than archbishop. Hence pope Urban addressed +him; “Urban, servant of the servants of God, to the most +fervent monk, to the warm abbot, to the luke-warm bishop, to the +remiss archbishop, health, etc.”</p> +<p>This second successor to the martyr Thomas, having heard of +the insults offered to our Saviour and his holy cross, was +amongst the first who signed themselves with the cross, and +manfully assumed the office of preaching its service both at home +and in the most remote parts of the kingdom. Pursuing his +journey to the Holy Land, he embarked on board a vessel at +Marseilles, and landed safely in a port at Tyre, from whence he +proceeded to Acre, where he found our army both attacking and +attacked, our forces dispirited by the defection of the princes, +and thrown into a state of desolation and despair; fatigued by +long expectation of supplies, greatly afflicted by hunger and +want, and distempered by the inclemency of the air: finding his +end approaching, <a name="page141"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +141</span>he embraced his fellow subjects, relieving their wants +by liberal acts of charity and pious exhortations, and by the +tenor of his life and actions strengthened them in the faith; +whose ways, life, and deeds, may he who is alone the “way, +the truth, and the life,” the way without offence, the +truth without doubt, and the life without end, direct in truth, +together with the whole body of the faithful, and for the glory +of his name and the palm of faith which he hath planted, teach +their hands to war, and their fingers to fight.</p> +<h2>FOOTNOTES:</h2> +<p><a name="footnote0a"></a><a href="#citation0a" +class="footnote">[0a]</a> It is a somewhat curious +coincidence that the island of Barry is now owned by a descendant +of Gerald de Windor’s elder brother—the Earl of +Plymouth.</p> +<p><a name="footnote0b"></a><a href="#citation0b" +class="footnote">[0b]</a> “Mirror of the +Church,” ii. 33.</p> +<p><a name="footnote0c"></a><a href="#citation0c" +class="footnote">[0c]</a> “Social England,” +vol. i. p. 342.</p> +<p><a name="footnote0d"></a><a href="#citation0d" +class="footnote">[0d]</a> Published in the first instance +in the “Transactions of the Cymmrodaian Society,” and +subsequently amplified and brought out in book form.</p> +<p><a name="footnote0e"></a><a href="#citation0e" +class="footnote">[0e]</a> Introduction to Borrow’s +“Wild Wales” in the Everyman Series.</p> +<p><a name="footnote0f"></a><a href="#citation0f" +class="footnote">[0f]</a> Geoffrey, who ended his life as +Bishop of St. Asaph, was supposed to have found the material for +his “History of the British Kings” in a Welsh book, +containing a history of the Britons, which Waltor Colenius, +Archdeacon of Oxford, picked up during a journey in Brittany.</p> +<p><a name="footnote0g"></a><a href="#citation0g" +class="footnote">[0g]</a> Walter Map, another Archdeacon of +Oxford, was born in Glamorganshire, the son of a Norman knight by +a Welsh mother. <i>Inter alia</i> he was the author of a +Welsh work on agriculture.</p> +<p><a name="footnote0h"></a><a href="#citation0h" +class="footnote">[0h]</a> Green, “Hist. Eng. +People,” i. 172.</p> +<p><a name="footnote0i"></a><a href="#citation0i" +class="footnote">[0i]</a> “England under the Angevin +Kings,” vol. ii. 457.</p> +<p><a name="footnote0j"></a><a href="#citation0j" +class="footnote">[0j]</a> Project Gutenberg has released +“The Description of Wales” as a separate +eText—David Price.</p> +<p><a name="footnote11"></a><a href="#citation11" +class="footnote">[11]</a> Giraldus has committed an error +in placing Urban III. at the head of the apostolic see; for he +died at Ferrara in the month of October, <span +class="GutSmall">A.D.</span> 1187, and was succeeded by Gregory +VIII., whose short reign expired in the month of December +following. Clement III. was elected pontiff in the year +1188. Frederick I., surnamed Barbarossa, succeeded Conrad +III. in the empire of Germany, in March, 1152, and was drowned in +a river of Cilicia whilst bathing, in 1190. Isaac Angelus +succeeded Andronicus I. as emperor of Constantinople, in 1185, +and was dethroned in 1195. Philip II., surnamed Augustus, +from his having been born in the month of August, was crowned at +Rheims, in 1179, and died at Mantes, in 1223. William II., king +of Sicily, surnamed the Good, succeeded in 1166 to his father, +William the Bad, and died in 1189. Bela III., king of +Hungary, succeeded to the throne in 1174, and died in 1196. +Guy de Lusignan was crowned king of Jerusalem in 1186, and in the +following year his city was taken by the victorious Saladin.</p> +<p><a name="footnote12a"></a><a href="#citation12a" +class="footnote">[12a]</a> New Radnor.</p> +<p><a name="footnote12b"></a><a href="#citation12b" +class="footnote">[12b]</a> Rhys ap Gruffydd was grandson to +Rhys ap Tewdwr, prince of South Wales, who, in 1090, was slain in +an engagement with the Normans. He was a prince of great +talent, but great versatility of character, and made a +conspicuous figure in Welsh history. He died in 1196, and +was buried in the cathedral of St. David’s; where his +effigy, as well as that of his son Rhys Gryg, still remain in a +good state of preservation.</p> +<p><a name="footnote12c"></a><a href="#citation12c" +class="footnote">[12c]</a> Peter de Leia, prior of the +Benedictine monastery of Wenlock, in Shropshire, was the +successful rival of Giraldus for the bishopric of Saint +David’s, vacant by the death of David Fitzgerald, the uncle +of our author; but he did not obtain his promotion without +considerable opposition from the canons, who submitted to the +absolute sequestration of their property before they consented to +his election, being desirous that the nephew should have +succeeded his uncle. He was consecrated in 1176, and died +in 1199.</p> +<p><a name="footnote12d"></a><a href="#citation12d" +class="footnote">[12d]</a> In the Latin of Giraldus, the +name of Eineon is represented by Æneas, and Eineon Clyd by +Æneas Claudius.</p> +<p><a name="footnote13"></a><a href="#citation13" +class="footnote">[13]</a> Cruker Castle. The +corresponding distance between Old and New Radnor evidently +places this castle at Old Radnor, which was anciently called +Pen-y-craig, Pencraig, or Pen-crûg, from its situation on a +rocky eminence. Cruker is a corruption, probably, from +Crûg-caerau, the mount, or height, of the +fortifications.</p> +<p><a name="footnote14a"></a><a href="#citation14a" +class="footnote">[14a]</a> Buelth or Builth, a large market +town on the north-west edge of the county of Brecon, on the +southern banks of the Wye, over which there is a long and +handsome bridge of stone. It had formerly a strong castle, +the site and earthworks of which still remain, but the building +is destroyed.</p> +<p><a name="footnote14b"></a><a href="#citation14b" +class="footnote">[14b]</a> Llan-Avan, a small church at the +foot of barren mountains about five or six miles north-west of +Buelth. The saint from whom it takes its name, was one of +the sons of Cedig ab Cunedda; whose ancestor, Cunedda, king of +the Britons, was the head of one of the three holy families of +Britain. He is said to have lived in the beginning of the +sixth century.</p> +<p><a name="footnote14c"></a><a href="#citation14c" +class="footnote">[14c]</a> Melenia, Warthrenion, Elevein, +Elvenia, Melenyth, and Elvein, places mentioned in this first +chapter, and varying in their orthography, were three different +districts in Radnorshire: Melenyth is a hundred in the northern +part of the county, extending into Montgomeryshire, in which is +the church of Keri: Elvein retains in modern days the name of +Elvel, and is a hundred in the southern part of the county, +separated from Brecknockshire by the Wye; and Warthrenion, in +which was the castle built by prince Rhys at Rhaiadyr-gwy, seems +to have been situated between the other two. Warthrenion +may more properly be called Gwyrthrynion, it was anciently one of +the three comots of Arwystli, a cantref of Merioneth. In +the year 1174, Melyenith was in the possession of Cadwallon ap +Madawc, cousin german to prince Rhys; Elvel was held by Eineon +Clyd and Gwyrthrynion by Eineon ap Rhys, both sons-in-law to that +illustrious prince.</p> +<p><a name="footnote15a"></a><a href="#citation15a" +class="footnote">[15a]</a> The church of Saint Germanus is +now known by the name of Saint Harmans, and is situated three or +four miles from Rhaiadyr, in Radnorshire, on the right-hand of +the road from thence to Llanidloes; it is a small and simple +structure, placed on a little eminence, in a dreary plain +surrounded by mountains.</p> +<p><a name="footnote15b"></a><a href="#citation15b" +class="footnote">[15b]</a> Several churches in Wales have +been dedicated to Saint Curig, who came into Wales in the seventh +century.</p> +<p><a name="footnote16a"></a><a href="#citation16a" +class="footnote">[16a]</a> Glascum is a small village in a +mountainous and retired situation between Builth and Kington, in +Herefordshire.</p> +<p><a name="footnote16b"></a><a href="#citation16b" +class="footnote">[16b]</a> Bangu.—This was a hand +bell kept in all the Welsh churches, which the clerk or sexton +took to the house of the deceased on the day of the funeral: when +the procession began, a psalm was sung; the bellman then sounded +his bell in a solemn manner for some time, till another psalm was +concluded; and he again sounded it at intervals, till the funeral +arrived at the church.</p> +<p><a name="footnote16c"></a><a href="#citation16c" +class="footnote">[16c]</a> Rhaiadyr, called also +Rhaiader-gwy, is a small village and market-town in +Radnorshire. The site only of the castle, built by prince +Rhys, <span class="GutSmall">A.D.</span> 1178, now remains at a +short distance from the village; it was strongly situated on a +natural rock above the river Wye, which, below the bridge, forms +a cataract.</p> +<p><a name="footnote16d"></a><a href="#citation16d" +class="footnote">[16d]</a> Llywel, a small village about a +mile from Trecastle, on the great road leading from thence to +Llandovery; it was anciently a township, and by charter of Philip +and Mary was attached to the borough of Brecknock, by the name of +Trecastle ward.</p> +<p><a name="footnote17"></a><a href="#citation17" +class="footnote">[17]</a> Leland, in his description of +this part of Wales, mentions a lake in Low Elvel, or Elvenia, +which may perhaps be the same as that alluded to in this passage +of Giraldus. “There is a llinne in Low Elvel within a +mile of Payne’s castel by the church called Lanpeder. +The llinne is caullid Bougklline, and is of no great quantite, +but is plentiful of pike, and perche, and +eles.”—<i>Leland</i>, <i>Itin.</i> tom. v. p. 72.</p> +<p><a name="footnote18a"></a><a href="#citation18a" +class="footnote">[18a]</a> Hay.—A pleasant +market-town on the southern banks of the river Wye, over which +there is a bridge. It still retains some marks of baronial +antiquity in the old castle, within the present town, the gateway +of which is tolerably perfect. A high raised tumulus +adjoining the church marks the site of the more ancient +fortress. The more modern and spacious castle owes its +foundation probably to one of those Norman lords, who, about the +year 1090, conquered this part of Wales. Little notice is +taken of this castle in the Welsh chronicles; but we are informed +that it was destroyed in 1231, by Henry II., and that it was +refortified by Henry III.</p> +<p><a name="footnote18b"></a><a href="#citation18b" +class="footnote">[18b]</a> Llanddew, a small village, about +two miles from Brecknock, on the left of the road leading from +thence to Hay; its manor belongs to the bishops of Saint +David’s, who had formerly a castellated mansion there, of +which some ruins still remain. The tithes of this parish +are appropriated to the archdeaconry of Brecknock, and here was +the residence of our author Giraldus, which he mentions in +several of his writings, and alludes to with heartfelt +satisfaction at the end of the third chapter of this +Itinerary.</p> +<p><a name="footnote18c"></a><a href="#citation18c" +class="footnote">[18c]</a> Aberhodni, the ancient name of +the town and castle of Brecknock, derived from its situation at +the confluence of the river Hodni with the Usk. The castle +and two religious buildings, of which the remains are still +extant, owed their foundation to Bernard de Newmarch, a Norman +knight, who, in the year 1090, obtained by conquest the lordship +of Brecknock. [The modern Welsh name is Aberhonddu.]</p> +<p><a name="footnote19a"></a><a href="#citation19a" +class="footnote">[19a]</a> Iestyn ap Gwrgant was lord of +the province of Morganwg, or Glamorgan, and a formidable rival to +Rhys ap Tewdwr, prince of South Wales; but unable to cope with +him in power, he prevailed on Robert Fitzhamon, a Norman knight, +to come to his assistance.</p> +<p><a name="footnote19b"></a><a href="#citation19b" +class="footnote">[19b]</a> This little river rises near the +ruins of Blanllyfni castle, between Llangorse pool and the +turnpike road leading from Brecknock to Abergavenny, and empties +itself into the river Usk, near Glasbury.</p> +<p><a name="footnote19c"></a><a href="#citation19c" +class="footnote">[19c]</a> A pretty little village on the +southern banks of the Usk, about four miles from Hay, on the road +leading to Brecknock.</p> +<p><a name="footnote19d"></a><a href="#citation19d" +class="footnote">[19d]</a> The great desolation here +alluded to, is attributed by Dr. Powel to Howel and Meredyth, +sons of Edwyn ap Eineon; not to Howel, son of Meredith. In +the year 1021, they conspired against Llewelyn ap Sitsyllt, and +slew him: Meredith was slain in 1033, and Howel in 1043.</p> +<p><a name="footnote19e"></a><a href="#citation19e" +class="footnote">[19e]</a> William de Breusa, or Braose, +was by extraction a Norman, and had extensive possessions in +England, as well as Normandy: he was succeeded by his son Philip, +who, in the reign of William Rufus, favoured the cause of king +Henry against Robert Curthose, duke of Normandy; and being +afterwards rebellious to his sovereign, was disinherited of his +lands. By his marriage with Berta, daughter of Milo, earl +of Hereford, he gained a rich inheritance in Brecknock, Overwent, +and Gower. He left issue two sons: William and Philip: +William married Maude de Saint Wallery, and succeeded to the +great estate of his father and mother, which he kept in peaceable +possession during the reigns of king Henry II. and king Richard +I. In order to avoid the persecutions of king John, he +retired with his family to Ireland; and from thence returned into +Wales; on hearing of the king’s arrival in Ireland, his +wife Maude fled with her sons into Scotland, where she was taken +prisoner, and in the year 1210 committed, with William, her son +and heir, to Corf castle, and there miserably starved to death, +by order of king John; her husband, William de Braose, escaped +into France, disguised, and dying there, was buried in the abbey +church of Saint Victor, at Paris. The family of Saint +Walery, or Valery, derived their name from a sea-port in +France.</p> +<p><a name="footnote21"></a><a href="#citation21" +class="footnote">[21]</a> A small church dedicated to Saint +David, in the suburbs of Brecknock, on the great road leading +from thence to Trecastle. “The paroche of Llanvays, +Llan-chirch-Vais extra, ac si diceres, extra muros. It +standeth betwixt the river of Uske and Tyrtorelle brooke, that +is, about the lower ende of the town of +Brekenok.”—<i>Leland</i>, <i>Itin.</i> tom. v. p. +69.</p> +<p><a name="footnote22a"></a><a href="#citation22a" +class="footnote">[22a]</a> David Fitzgerald was promoted to +the see of Saint David’s in 1147, or according to others, +in 1149. He died <span class="GutSmall">A.D.</span> +1176.</p> +<p><a name="footnote22b"></a><a href="#citation22b" +class="footnote">[22b]</a> Now Howden, in the East Riding +of Yorkshire.</p> +<p><a name="footnote22c"></a><a href="#citation22c" +class="footnote">[22c]</a> Osred was king of the +Northumbrians, and son of Alfred. He commenced to reign in +<span class="GutSmall">A.D.</span> 791, but was deprived of his +crown the following year.</p> +<p><a name="footnote23a"></a><a href="#citation23a" +class="footnote">[23a]</a> St. Kenelm was the only son and +heir of Kenulfus, king of the Mercians, who left him under the +care of his two sisters, Quendreda and Bragenilda. The +former, blinded by ambition, resolved to destroy the innocent +child, who stood between her and the throne; and for that purpose +prevailed on Ascebert, who attended constantly on the king, to +murder him privately, giving him hopes, in case he complied with +her wishes, of making him her partner in the kingdom. Under +the pretence of diverting his young master, this wicked servant +led him into a retired vale at Clent, in Staffordshire, and +having murdered him, dug a pit, and cast his body into it, which +was discovered by a miracle, and carried in solemn procession to +the abbey of Winchelcomb. In the parish of Clent is a small +chapel dedicated to this saint.</p> +<p><a name="footnote23b"></a><a href="#citation23b" +class="footnote">[23b]</a> Winchelcumbe, or Winchcomb, in +the lower part of the hundred of Kiftsgate, in Gloucestershire, a +few miles to the north of Cheltenham.</p> +<p><a name="footnote24"></a><a href="#citation24" +class="footnote">[24]</a> St. Kynauc, who flourished about +the year 492, was the reputed son of Brychan, lord of Brecknock, +by Benadulved, daughter of Benadyl, a prince of Powis, whom he +seduced during the time of his detention as an hostage at the +court of her father. He is said to have been murdered upon +the mountain called the Van, and buried in the church of Merthyr +Cynawg, or Cynawg the Martyr, near Brecknock, which is dedicated +to his memory.</p> +<p><a name="footnote25a"></a><a href="#citation25a" +class="footnote">[25a]</a> In Welsh, Illtyd, which has been +latinised into Iltutus, as in the instance of St. Iltutus, the +celebrated disciple of Germanus, and the master of the learned +Gildas, who founded a college for the instruction of youth at +Llantwit, on the coast of Glamorganshire; but I do not conceive +this to be the same person. The name of Ty-Illtyd, or St. +Illtyd’s house, is still known as Llanamllech, but it is +applied to one of those monuments of Druidical antiquity called a +cistvaen, erected upon an eminence named Maenest, at a short +distance from the village. A rude, upright stone stood +formerly on one side of it, and was called by the country people +Maen Illtyd, or Illtyd’s stone, but was removed about a +century ago. A well, the stream of which divides this +parish from the neighbouring one of Llansaintfraid, is called +Ffynnon Illtyd, or Illtyd’s well. This was evidently +the site of the hermitage mentioned by Giraldus.</p> +<p><a name="footnote25b"></a><a href="#citation25b" +class="footnote">[25b]</a> Lhanhamelach, or Llanamllech, is +a small village, three miles from Brecknock, on the road to +Abergavenny.</p> +<p><a name="footnote26a"></a><a href="#citation26a" +class="footnote">[26a]</a> The name of Newmarche appears in +the chartulary of Battel abbey, as a witness to one of the +charters granted by William the Conqueror to the monks of Battel +in Sussex, upon his foundation of their house. He obtained +the territory of Brecknock by conquest, from Bleddyn ap Maenarch, +the Welsh regulus thereof, about the year 1092, soon after his +countryman, Robert Fitzhamon, had reduced the county of +Glamorgan. He built the present town of Brecknock, where he +also founded a priory of Benedictine monks. According to +Leland, he was buried in the cloister of the cathedral church at +Gloucester, though the mutilated remains of an effigy and +monument are still ascribed to him in the priory church at +Brecknock.</p> +<p><a name="footnote26b"></a><a href="#citation26b" +class="footnote">[26b]</a> Brecheinoc, now Brecknockshire, +had three cantreds or hundreds, and eight comots.—1. +Cantref Selef with the comots of Selef and Trahayern.—2. +Cantref Canol, or the middle hundred, with the comots Talgarth, +Ystradwy, and Brwynlys, or Eglyws Yail.—3. Cantref Mawr, or +the great hundred, with the comots of Tir Raulff Llywel, and +Cerrig Howel.—Powel’s description of Wales, p. +20.</p> +<p><a name="footnote27"></a><a href="#citation27" +class="footnote">[27]</a> Milo was son to Walter, constable +of England in the reign of Henry I., and Emme his wife, one of +the daughters of Dru de Baladun, sister to Hameline de Baladun, a +person of great note, who came into England with William the +Conqueror, and, being the first lord of Overwent in the county of +Monmouth, built the castle of Abergavenny. He was wounded +by an arrow while hunting, on Christmas eve, in 1144, and was +buried in the chapter-house of Lanthoni, near Gloucester.</p> +<p><a name="footnote28a"></a><a href="#citation28a" +class="footnote">[28a]</a> Walter de Clifford. The +first of this ancient family was called Ponce; he had issue three +sons, Walter, Drogo or Dru, and Richard. The +Conqueror’s survey takes notice of the two former, but from +Richard the genealogical line is preserved, who, being called +Richard de Pwns, obtained, as a gift from king Henry I., the +cantref Bychan, or little hundred, and the castle of Llandovery, +in Wales; he left three sons, Simon, Walter, and Richard. +The Walter de Clifford here mentioned was father to the +celebrated Fair Rosamond, the favourite of king Henry II.; and +was succeeded by his eldest son, Walter, who married Margaret, +daughter to Llewelyn, prince of Wales, and widow of John de +Braose.</p> +<p><a name="footnote28b"></a><a href="#citation28b" +class="footnote">[28b]</a> Brendlais, or Brynllys, is a +small village on the road between Brecknock and Hay, where a +stately round tower marks the site of the ancient castle of the +Cliffords, in which the tyrant Mahel lost his life.</p> +<p><a name="footnote29a"></a><a href="#citation29a" +class="footnote">[29a]</a> St. Almedha, though not included +in the ordinary lists, is said to have been a daughter of +Brychan, and sister to St. Canoc, and to have borne the name of +Elevetha, Aled, or Elyned, latinised into Almedha. The +Welsh genealogists say, that she suffered martyrdom on a hill +near Brecknock, where a chapel was erected to her memory; and +William of Worcester says she was buried at Usk. Mr. Hugh +Thomas (who wrote an essay towards the history of Brecknockshire +in the year 1698) speaks of the chapel as standing, though +unroofed and useless, in his time; the people thereabouts call it +St. Tayled. It was situated on an eminence, about a mile to +the eastward of Brecknock, and about half a mile from a +farm-house, formerly the mansion and residence of the Aubreys, +lords of the manor of Slwch, which lordship was bestowed upon Sir +Reginald Awbrey by Bernard Newmarche, in the reign of William +Rufus. Some small vestiges of this building may still be +traced, and an aged yew tree, with a well at its foot, marks the +site near which the chapel formerly stood.</p> +<p><a name="footnote29b"></a><a href="#citation29b" +class="footnote">[29b]</a> This same habit is still (in Sir +Richard Colt Hoare’s time) used by the Welsh ploughboys; +they have a sort of chaunt, consisting of half or even quarter +notes, which is sung to the oxen at plough: the countrymen +vulgarly supposing that the beasts are consoled to work more +regularly and patiently by such a lullaby.</p> +<p><a name="footnote30a"></a><a href="#citation30a" +class="footnote">[30a]</a> The umber, or grayling, is still +a plentiful and favourite fish in the rivers on the Welsh +border.</p> +<p><a name="footnote30b"></a><a href="#citation30b" +class="footnote">[30b]</a> About the year 1113, +“there was a talke through South Wales, of Gruffyth, the +sonne of Rees ap Theodor, who, for feare of the king, had beene +of a child brought up in Ireland, and had come over two yeares +passed, which time he had spent privilie with his freends, +kinsfolks, and affines; as with Gerald, steward of Penbrooke, his +brother-in-law, and others. But at the last he was accused +to the king, that he intended the kingdome of South Wales as his +father had enjoied it, which was now in the king’s hands; +and that all the countrie hoped of libertie through him; +therefore the king sent to take him. But Gryffyth ap Rees +hering this, sent to Gruffyth ap Conan, prince of North Wales, +desiring him of his aid, and that he might remaine safelie within +his countrie; which he granted, and received him joiouslie for +his father’s sake.” He afterwards proved so +troublesome and successful an antagonist, that the king +endeavoured by every possible means to get him into his +power. To Gruffyth ap Conan he offered “mountaines of +gold to send the said Gruffyth or his head to him.” +And at a subsequent period, he sent for Owen ap-Cadogan said to +him, “Owen, I have found thee true and faithful unto me, +therefore I desire thee to take or kill that murtherer, that doth +so trouble my loving subjects.” But Gruffyth escaped +all the snares which the king had laid for him, and in the year +1137 died a natural and honourable death; he is styled in the +Welsh chronicle, “the light, honor, and staie of South +Wales;” and distinguished as the bravest, the wisest, the +most merciful, liberal, and just, of all the princes of +Wales. By his wife Gwenllian, the daughter of Gruffyth ap +Conan, he left a son, commonly called the lord Rhys, who met the +archbishop at Radnor, as is related in the first chapter of this +Itinerary.</p> +<p><a name="footnote31"></a><a href="#citation31" +class="footnote">[31]</a> This cantref, which now bears the +name of Caeo, is placed, according to the ancient divisions of +Wales, in the cantref Bychan, or little hundred, and not in the +Cantref Mawr, or great hundred. A village between Lampeter +in Cardiganshire and Llandovery in Caermarthenshire, still bears +the name of Cynwil Caeo, and, from its picturesque situation and +the remains of its mines, which were probably worked by the +Romans, deserves the notice of the curious traveller.</p> +<p><a name="footnote32"></a><a href="#citation32" +class="footnote">[32]</a> The lake of Brecheinoc bears the +several names of Llyn Savaddan, Brecinau-mere, Llangorse, and +Talyllyn Pool, the two latter of which are derived from the names +of parishes on its banks. It is a large, though by no means +a beautiful, piece of water, its banks being low and flat, and +covered with rushes and other aquatic plants to a considerable +distance from the shore. Pike, perch, and eels are the +common fish of this water; tench and trout are rarely, I believe, +(if ever), taken in it. The notion of its having swallowed +up an ancient city is not yet quite exploded by the natives; and +some will even attribute the name of Loventium to it; which is +with much greater certainty fixed at Llanio-isau, between +Lampeter and Tregaron, in Cardiganshire, on the northern banks of +the river Teivi, where there are very considerable and undoubted +remains of a large Roman city. The legend of the town at +the bottom of the lake is at the same time very old.</p> +<p><a name="footnote33a"></a><a href="#citation33a" +class="footnote">[33a]</a> That chain of mountains which +divides Brecknockshire from Caermarthenshire, over which the +turnpike road formerly passed from Trecastle to Llandovery, and +from which the river Usk derives its source.</p> +<p><a name="footnote33b"></a><a href="#citation33b" +class="footnote">[33b]</a> This mountain is now called, by +way of eminence, the Van, or the height, but more commonly, by +country people, Bannau Brycheinog, or the Brecknock heights, +alluding to its two peaks. Our author, Giraldus, seems to +have taken his account of the spring, on the summit of this +mountain, from report, rather than from ocular testimony. I +(Sir R. Colt Hoare) examined the summits of each peak very +attentively, and could discern no spring whatever. The soil +is peaty and very boggy. On the declivity of the southern +side of the mountain, and at no considerable distance from the +summit, is a spring of very fine water, which my guide assured me +never failed. On the north-west side of the mountain is a +round pool, in which possibly trout may have been sometimes +found, but, from the muddy nature of its waters, I do not think +it very probable; from this pool issues a small brook, which +falls precipitously down the sides of the mountain, and pursuing +its course through a narrow and well-wooded valley, forms a +pretty cascade near a rustic bridge which traverses it. I +am rather inclined think, that Giraldus confounded in his account +the spring and the pool together.</p> +<p><a name="footnote34a"></a><a href="#citation34a" +class="footnote">[34a]</a> The first of these are now +styled the Black Mountains, of which the Gadair Fawr is the +principal, and is only secondary to the Van in height. The +Black Mountains are an extensive range of hills rising to the +east of Talgarth, in the several parishes of Talgarth, Llaneliew, +and Llanigorn, in the county of Brecknock, and connected with the +heights of Ewyas. The most elevated point is called Y +Gadair, and, excepting the Brecknock Van (the Cadair Arthur of +Giraldus), is esteemed the highest mountain in South Wales. +The mountains of Ewyas are those now called the Hatterel Hills, +rising above the monastery of Llanthoni, and joining the Black +Mountains of Talgarth at Capel y Ffin, or the chapel upon the +boundary, near which the counties of Hereford, Brecknock, and +Monmouth form a point of union. But English writers have +generally confounded all distinction, calling them +indiscriminately the Black Mountains, or the Hatterel Hills.</p> +<p><a name="footnote34b"></a><a href="#citation34b" +class="footnote">[34b]</a> If we consider the circumstances +of this chapter, it will appear very evidently, that the vale of +Ewyas made no part of the actual Itinerary.</p> +<p><a name="footnote35"></a><a href="#citation35" +class="footnote">[35]</a> Landewi Nant Hodeni, or the +church of St. David on the Hodni, is now better known by the name +of Llanthoni abbey. A small and rustic chapel, dedicated to +St. David, at first occupied the site of this abbey; in the year +1103, William de Laci, a Norman knight, having renounced the +pleasures of the world, retired to this sequestered spot, where +he was joined in his austere profession by Ernicius, chaplain to +queen Maude. In the year 1108, these hermits erected a mean +church in the place of their hermitage, which was consecrated by +Urban, bishop of Llandaff, and Rameline, bishop of Hereford, and +dedicated to St. John the Baptist: having afterward received very +considerable benefactions from Hugh de Laci, and gained the +consent of Anselm, archbishop of Canterbury, these same hermits +founded a magnificent monastery for Black canons, of the order of +St. Augustine, which they immediately filled with forty monks +collected from the monasteries of the Holy Trinity in London, +Merton in Surrey, and Colchester in Essex. They afterwards +removed to Gloucester, where they built a church and spacious +monastery, which, after the name of their former residence, they +called Llanthoni; it was consecrated <span +class="GutSmall">A.D.</span> 1136, by Simon, bishop of Worcester, +and Robert Betun bishop of Hereford, and dedicated to the Virgin +Mary.</p> +<p><a name="footnote36a"></a><a href="#citation36a" +class="footnote">[36a]</a> The titles of mother and +daughter are here applied to the mother church in Wales, and the +daughter near Gloucester.</p> +<p><a name="footnote36b"></a><a href="#citation36b" +class="footnote">[36b]</a> William of Wycumb, the fourth +prior of Llanthoni, succeeded to Robert de Braci, who was obliged +to quit the monastery, on account of the hostile molestation it +received from the Welsh. To him succeeded Clement, the +sub-prior, and to Clement, Roger de Norwich.</p> +<p><a name="footnote38"></a><a href="#citation38" +class="footnote">[38]</a> Walter de Laci came into England +with William the Conqueror, and left three sons, Roger, Hugh, and +Walter. Hugh de Laci was the lord of Ewyas, and became +afterwards the founder of the convent of Llanthoni; his elder +brother, Robert, held also four caracutes of land within the +limits of the castle of Ewyas, which king William had bestowed on +Walter, his father; but joining in rebellion against William +Rufus, he was banished the kingdom, and all his lands were given +to his brother Hugh, who died without issue.</p> +<p><a name="footnote41"></a><a href="#citation41" +class="footnote">[41]</a> This anecdote is thus related by +the historian Hollinshed: “Hereof it came on a time, whiles +the king sojourned in France about his warres, which he held +against king Philip, there came unto him a French priest, whose +name was Fulco, who required the king in anywise to put from him +three abominable daughters which he had, and to bestow them in +marriage, least God punished him for them. ‘Thou +liest, hypocrite (said the king), to thy verie face; for all the +world knoweth I have not one daughter.’ ‘I lie +not (said the priest), for thou hast three daughters: one of them +is called Pride, the second Covetousness, and the third +Lecherie.’ With that the king called to him his lords +and barons, and said to them, ‘This hypocrite heere hath +required me to marry awaie my three daughters, which (as he +saith) I cherish, nourish, foster, and mainteine; that is to say, +Pride, Covetousness, and Lecherie: and now that I have found out +necessarie and fit husbands for them, I will do it with effect, +and seeks no more delaies. I therefore bequeath my pride to +the high-minded Templars and Hospitallers, which are as proud as +Lucifer himselfe; my covetousness I give unto the White Monks, +otherwise called of the Cisteaux order, for they covet the divell +and all; my lecherie I commit to the prelats of the church, who +have most pleasure and felicitie therein.’”</p> +<p><a name="footnote44a"></a><a href="#citation44a" +class="footnote">[44a]</a> This small residence of the +archdeacon was at Landeu, a place which has been described +before: the author takes this opportunity of hinting at his love +of literature, religion, and mediocrity.</p> +<p><a name="footnote44b"></a><a href="#citation44b" +class="footnote">[44b]</a> The last chapter having been +wholly digressive, we must now recur back to Brecknock, or +rather, perhaps, to our author’s residence at Landeu, where +we left him, and from thence accompany him to Abergavenny. +It appears that from Landeu he took the road to Talgarth, a small +village a little to the south east of the road leading from +Brecknock to Hay; from whence, climbing up a steep ascent, now +called Rhiw Cwnstabl, or the Constable’s ascent, he crossed +the black mountains of Llaneliew to the source of the Gronwy-fawr +river, which rises in that eminence, and pursues its rapid course +into the Vale of Usk. From thence a rugged and uneven track +descends suddenly into a narrow glen, formed by the torrent of +the Gronwy, between steep, impending mountains; bleak and barren +for the first four or five miles, but afterwards wooded to the +very margin of the stream. A high ledge of grassy hills on +the left hand, of which the principal is called the Bal, or Y +Fal, divides this formidable pass (the “Malus passus” +of Giraldus) from the vale of Ewyas, in which stands the noble +monastery of Llanthoni, “montibus suis inclusum,” +encircled by its mountains. The road at length emerging +from this deep recess of Coed Grono, or Cwm Gronwy, the vale of +the river Gronwy, crosses the river at a place called Pont Escob, +or the Bishop’s bridge, probably so called from this very +circumstance of its having been now passed by the archbishop and +his suite, and is continued through the forest of Moel, till it +joins the Hereford road, about two miles from Abergavenny. +This formidable defile is at least nine miles in length.</p> +<p><a name="footnote45"></a><a href="#citation45" +class="footnote">[45]</a> In the vale of the Gronwy, about +a mile above Pont Escob, there is a wood called Coed Dial, or the +Wood of Revenge. Here again, by the modern name of the +place, we are enabled to fix the very spot on which Richard de +Clare was murdered. The Welsh Chronicle informs us, that +“in 1135, Morgan ap Owen, a man of considerable quality and +estate in Wales, remembering the wrong and injury he had received +at the hands of Richard Fitz-Gilbert, slew him, together with his +son Gilbert.” The first of this great family, Richard +de Clare, was the eldest son of Gislebert, surnamed Crispin, earl +of Brion, in Normandy. This Richard Fitz-Gilbert came into +England with William the Conqueror, and received from him great +advancement in honour and possessions. On the death of the +Conqueror, favouring the cause of Robert Curthose, he rebelled +against William Rufus, but when that king appeared in arms before +his castle at Tunbridge, he submitted; after which, adhering to +Rufus against Robert, in 1091, he was taken prisoner, and shortly +after the death of king Henry I., was assassinated, on his +journey through Wales, in the manner already related.</p> +<p><a name="footnote46"></a><a href="#citation46" +class="footnote">[46]</a> Hamelin, son of Dru de Baladun, +who came into England with William the Conqueror, was the first +lord of Over-Went, and built a castle at Abergavenny, on the same +spot where, according to ancient tradition, a giant called Agros +had erected a fortress. He died in the reign of William +Rufus, and was buried in the priory which he had founded at +Abergavenny; having no issue, he gave the aforesaid castle and +lands to Brian de Insula, or Brian de Wallingford, his nephew, by +his sister Lucia. The enormous excesses mentioned by +Giraldus, as having been perpetrated in this part of Wales during +his time, seem to allude to a transaction that took place in the +castle of Abergavenny, in the year 1176, which is thus related by +two historians, Matthew Paris and Hollinshed. “<span +class="GutSmall">A.D.</span> 1176, The same yeare, William de +Breause having got a great number of Welshmen into the castle of +Abergavennie, under a colourable pretext of communication, +proposed this ordinance to be received of them with a corporall +oth, ‘That no traveller by the waie amongst them should +beare any bow, or other unlawful weapon,’ which oth, when +they refused to take, because they would not stand to that +ordinance, he condemned them all to death. This deceit he +used towards them, in revenge of the death of his uncle Henrie of +Hereford, whom upon Easter-even before they had through treason +murthered, and were now acquited was the like +againe.”—Hollinshed, tom. ii. p. 95.</p> +<p><a name="footnote48"></a><a href="#citation48" +class="footnote">[48]</a> Landinegat, or the church of St. +Dingad, is now better known by the name of Dingatstow, or +Dynastow, a village near Monmouth.</p> +<p><a name="footnote49a"></a><a href="#citation49a" +class="footnote">[49a]</a> [For the end of William de +Braose, see footnote 34.]</p> +<p><a name="footnote49b"></a><a href="#citation49b" +class="footnote">[49b]</a> Leland divides this district +into Low, Middle, and High Venteland, extending from Chepstow to +Newport on one side, and to Abergavenny on the other; the latter +of which, he says, “maketh the cumpace of Hye +Venteland.” He adds, “The soyle of al Venteland +is of a darke reddische yerth ful of slaty stones, and other +greater of the same color. The countrey is also sumwhat +montayneus, and welle replenishid with woodes, also very fertyle +of corne, but men there study more to pastures, the which be well +inclosed.”—<i>Leland</i>, <i>Itin.</i> tom. v. p. +6. Ancient Gwentland is now comprised within the county of +Monmouth.</p> +<p><a name="footnote50a"></a><a href="#citation50a" +class="footnote">[50a]</a> William de Salso Marisco, who +succeeded to the bishopric of Llandaff, <span +class="GutSmall">A.D.</span> 1185, and presided over that see +during the time of Baldwin’s visitation, in 1188.</p> +<p><a name="footnote50b"></a><a href="#citation50b" +class="footnote">[50b]</a> Alexander was the fourth +archdeacon of the see of Bangor.</p> +<p><a name="footnote50c"></a><a href="#citation50c" +class="footnote">[50c]</a> Once at Usk, then at Caerleon, +and afterwards on entering the town of Newport.</p> +<p><a name="footnote51"></a><a href="#citation51" +class="footnote">[51]</a> Gouldcliffe, or Goldcliff, is +situated a few miles S.E. of Newport, on the banks of the +Severn. In the year 1113, Robert de Candos founded and +endowed the church of Goldclive, and, by the advice of king Henry +I., gave it to the abbey of Bec, in Normandy; its religious +establishment consisted of a prior and twelve monks of the order +of St. Benedict.</p> +<p><a name="footnote53"></a><a href="#citation53" +class="footnote">[53]</a> [Geoffrey of Monmouth.]</p> +<p><a name="footnote54"></a><a href="#citation54" +class="footnote">[54]</a> The Cistercian abbey here alluded +to was known by the several names of Ystrat Marchel, Strata +Marcella, Alba domus de Stratmargel, Vallis Crucis, or Pola, and +was situated between Guilsfield and Welshpool, in +Montgomeryshire. Authors differ in opinion about its +original founder. Leland attributes it to Owen Cyveilioc, +prince of Powys, and Dugdale to Madoc, the son of Gruffydh, +giving for his authority the original grants and endowments of +this abbey. According to Tanner, about the beginning of the +reign of king Edward III., the Welsh monks were removed from +hence into English abbeys, and English monks were placed here, +and the abbey was made subject to the visitation of the abbot and +convent of Buildwas, in Shropshire.</p> +<p><a name="footnote56a"></a><a href="#citation56a" +class="footnote">[56a]</a> Cardiff, <i>i.e.</i>, the +fortress on the river Taf.</p> +<p><a name="footnote56b"></a><a href="#citation56b" +class="footnote">[56b]</a> Gwentluc—so called from +Gwent, the name of the province, and llug, open, to distinguish +it from the upper parts of Wentland, is an extensive tract of +flat, marshy ground, reaching from Newport to the shores of the +river Severn.</p> +<p><a name="footnote56c"></a><a href="#citation56c" +class="footnote">[56c]</a> Nant Pencarn, or the brook of +Pencarn.—After a very attentive examination of the country +round Newport, by natives of that place, and from the information +I have received on the subject, I am inclined to think that the +river here alluded to was the Ebwy, which flows about a mile and +a half south of Newport. Before the new turnpike road and +bridge were made across Tredegar Park, the old road led to a ford +lower down the river, and may still be travelled as far as +Cardiff; and was probably the ford mentioned in the text, as +three old farm-houses in its neighbourhood still retain the names +of Great Pencarn, Little Pencarn, and Middle Pencarn.</p> +<p><a name="footnote57"></a><a href="#citation57" +class="footnote">[57]</a> Robert Fitz-Hamon, earl of +Astremeville, in Normandy, came into England with William the +Conqueror; and, by the gift of William Rufus, obtained the honour +of Gloucester. He was wounded with a spear at the siege of +Falaise, in Normandy, died soon afterwards, and was buried, <span +class="GutSmall">A.D.</span> 1102, in the abbey of Tewkesbury, +which he had founded. Leaving no male issue, king Henry +gave his eldest daughter, Mabel, or Maude, who, in her own right, +had the whole honour of Gloucester, to his illegitimate son +Robert, who was advanced to the earldom of Gloucester by the +king, his father. He died <span +class="GutSmall">A.D.</span> 1147, and left four sons: William, +the personage here mentioned by Giraldus, who succeeded him in +his titles and honours; Roger, bishop of Worcester, who died at +Tours in France, <span class="GutSmall">A.D.</span> 1179; Hamon, +who died at the siege of Toulouse, <span +class="GutSmall">A.D.</span> 1159; and Philip.</p> +<p><a name="footnote58a"></a><a href="#citation58a" +class="footnote">[58a]</a> The Coychurch Manuscript quoted +by Mr. Williams, in his History of Monmouthshire, asserts that +Morgan, surnamed Mwyn-fawr, or the Gentle, the son of Athrwy, not +having been elected to the chief command of the British armies, +upon his father’s death retired from Caerleon, and took up +his residence in Glamorganshire, sometimes at Radyr, near +Cardiff, and at other times at Margam; and from this event the +district derived its name, quasi Gwlad-Morgan, the country of +Morgan.</p> +<p><a name="footnote58b"></a><a href="#citation58b" +class="footnote">[58b]</a> St. Piranus, otherwise called +St. Kiaran, or Piran, was an Irish saint, said to have been born +in the county of Ossory, or of Cork, about the middle of the +fourth century; and after that by his labours the Gospel had made +good progress, he forsook all worldly things, and spent the +remainder of his life in religious solitude. The place of +his retirement was on the sea-coast of Cornwall, and not far from +Padstow, where, as Camden informs us, there was a chapel on the +sands erected to his memory. Leland has informed us, that +the chapel of St. Perine, at Caerdiff, stood in Shoemaker +Street.</p> +<p><a name="footnote59"></a><a href="#citation59" +class="footnote">[59]</a> So called from a parish of that +name in Glamorganshire, situated between Monk Nash and St. +Donat’s, upon the Bristol Channel.</p> +<p><a name="footnote60"></a><a href="#citation60" +class="footnote">[60]</a> Barri Island is situated on the +coast of Glamorganshire; and, according to Cressy, took its name +from St. Baruc, the hermit, who resided, and was buried +there. The Barrys in Ireland, as well as the family of +Giraldus, who were lords of it, are said to have derived their +names from this island. Leland, in speaking of this island, +says, “The passage into Barrey isle at ful se is a flite +shot over, as much as the Tamise is above the bridge. At +low water, there is a broken causey to go over, or els over the +shalow streamelet of Barrey-brook on the sands. The isle is +about a mile in cumpace, and hath very good corne, grasse, and +sum wood; the ferme of it worth a £10 a yere. There +ys no dwelling in the isle, but there is in the middle of it a +fair little chapel of St. Barrok, where much pilgrimage was +usid.” [The “fair little chapel” has +disappeared, and “Barry Island” is now, since the +construction of the great dock, connected with the mainland, it +is covered with houses, and its estimated capital value is now +£250,000].</p> +<p><a name="footnote61a"></a><a href="#citation61a" +class="footnote">[61a]</a> William de Salso Marisco.</p> +<p><a name="footnote61b"></a><a href="#citation61b" +class="footnote">[61b]</a> The see of Llandaff is said to +have been founded by the British king Lucius as early as the year +180.</p> +<p><a name="footnote61c"></a><a href="#citation61c" +class="footnote">[61c]</a> From Llandaff, our crusaders +proceeded towards the Cistercian monastery of Margam, passing on +their journey near the little cell of Benedictines at Ewenith, or +Ewenny. This religious house was founded by Maurice de +Londres towards the middle of the twelfth century. It is +situated in a marshy plain near the banks of the little river +Ewenny.</p> +<p><a name="footnote62"></a><a href="#citation62" +class="footnote">[62]</a> The Cistercian monastery of +Margam, justly celebrated for the extensive charities which its +members exercised, was founded <span class="GutSmall">A.D.</span> +1147, by Robert earl of Gloucester, who died in the same +year. Of this once-famed sanctuary nothing now remains but +the shell of its chapter-house, which, by neglect, has lost its +most ornamental parts. When Mr. Wyndham made the tour of +Wales in the year 1777, this elegant building was entire, and was +accurately drawn and engraved by his orders.</p> +<p><a name="footnote65"></a><a href="#citation65" +class="footnote">[65]</a> In continuing their journey from +Neath to Swansea, our travellers directed their course by the +sea-coast to the river Avon, which they forded, and, continuing +their road along the sands, were probably ferried over the river +Neath, at a place now known by the name of Breton Ferry, leaving +the monastery of Neath at some distance to the right: from thence +traversing another tract of sands, and crossing the river Tawe, +they arrived at the castle of Swansea, where they passed the +night.</p> +<p><a name="footnote66"></a><a href="#citation66" +class="footnote">[66]</a> The monastery of Neath was +situated on the banks of a river bearing the same name, about a +mile to the westward of the town and castle. It was founded +in 1112, by Richard de Grainville, or Greenefeld, and Constance, +his wife, for the safety of the souls of Robert, earl of +Gloucester, Maude, his wife, and William, his son. Richard +de Grainville was one of the twelve Norman knights who +accompanied Robert Fitz-Hamon, and assisted him in the conquest +of Glamorganshire. In the time of Leland this abbey was in +a high state of preservation, for he says, “Neth abbay of +white monkes, a mile above Neth town, standing in the ripe of +Neth, semid to me the fairest abbay of al +Wales.”—<i>Leland</i>, <i>Itin.</i> tom. v. p. +14. The remains of the abbey and of the adjoining +priory-house are considerable; but this ancient retirement of the +grey and white monks is now occupied by the inhabitants of the +neighbouring copper-works.</p> +<p><a name="footnote67a"></a><a href="#citation67a" +class="footnote">[67a]</a> Gower, the western district of +Glamorganshire, appears to have been first conquered by Henry de +Newburg, earl of Warwick, soon after Robert, duke of Gloucester, +had made the conquest of the other part of Glamorganshire.</p> +<p><a name="footnote67b"></a><a href="#citation67b" +class="footnote">[67b]</a> Sweynsei, Swansea, or Abertawe, +situated at the confluence of the river Tawe with the Severn sea, +is a town of considerable commerce, and much frequented during +the summer months as a bathing-place. The old castle, now +made use of as a prison, is so surrounded by houses in the middle +of the town, that a stranger might visit Swansea without knowing +that such a building existed. The Welsh Chronicle informs +us, that it was built by Henry de Beaumont, earl of Warwick, and +that in the year 1113 it was attacked by Gruffydd ap Rhys, but +without success. This castle became afterwards a part of +the possessions of the see of St. David’s, and was rebuilt +by bishop Gower. [The old castle is no longer used as a +prison, but as the office of the “Cambria Daily +Leader.” It is significant that Swansea is still +known to Welshmen, as in the days of Giraldus, as +“Abertawe.”]</p> +<p><a name="footnote71a"></a><a href="#citation71a" +class="footnote">[71a]</a> Lochor, or Llwchwr, was the +Leucarum mentioned in the Itineraries, and the fifth Roman +station on the Via Julia. This small village is situated on +a tide-river bearing the same name, which divides the counties of +Glamorgan and Caermarthen, and over which there is a ferry. +“Lochor river partith Kidwelli from West +Gowerlande.”—<i>Leland</i>, <i>Itin.</i> tom. v. p. +23. [The ferry is no more. The river is crossed by a +fine railway bridge.]</p> +<p><a name="footnote71b"></a><a href="#citation71b" +class="footnote">[71b]</a> Wendraeth, or Gwen-draeth, from +gwen, white, and traeth, the sandy beach of the sea. There +are two rivers of this name, Gwendraeth fawr, and Gwendraeth +fychan, the great and the little Gwendraeth, of which Leland thus +speaks: “Vendraeth Vawr and Vendraith Vehan risith both in +Eskenning commote: the lesse an eight milys of from Kydwelli, the +other about a ten, and hath but a little nesche of sand betwixt +the places wher thei go into the se, about a mile beneth the +towne of Kidwely.”</p> +<p><a name="footnote71c"></a><a href="#citation71c" +class="footnote">[71c]</a> Cydweli was probably so called +from cyd, a junction, and wyl, a flow, or gushing out, being +situated near the junction of the rivers Gwendraeth fawr and +fychan; but Leland gives its name a very singular derivation, and +worthy of our credulous and superstitious author Giraldus. +“Kidwely, otherwise Cathweli, i.e. Catti lectus, quia +Cattus olim solebat ibi lectum in quercu facere:—There is a +little towne now but newly made betwene Vendraith Vawr and +Vendraith Vehan. Vendraith Vawr is half a mile +of.”—<i>Leland</i>, <i>Itin.</i> tom. v. p. 22.</p> +<p><a name="footnote72"></a><a href="#citation72" +class="footnote">[72]</a> The scene of the battle fought +between Gwenllian and Maurice de Londres is to this day called +Maes Gwenllian, the plain or field of Gwenllian; and there is a +tower in the castle of Cydweli still called Tyr Gwenllian. +[Maes Gwenllian is now a small farm, one of whose fields is said +to have been the scene of the battle.]</p> +<p><a name="footnote73a"></a><a href="#citation73a" +class="footnote">[73a]</a> The castle of Talachar is now +better known by the name of Llaugharne.</p> +<p><a name="footnote73b"></a><a href="#citation73b" +class="footnote">[73b]</a> Much has been said and written +by ancient authors respecting the derivation of the name of this +city, which is generally allowed to be the Muridunum, or +Maridunum, mentioned in the Roman itineraries. Some derive +it from Caer and Merddyn, that is, the city of the prophet +Merddyn; and others from Mûr and Murddyn, which in the +British language signify a wall. There can, however, be +little doubt that it is derived simply from the Roman name +Muridunum. The county gaol occupies the site of the old +castle, a few fragments of which are seen intermixed with the +houses of the town.</p> +<p><a name="footnote73c"></a><a href="#citation73c" +class="footnote">[73c]</a> Dinevor, the great castle, from +dinas, a castle, and vawr, great, was in ancient times a royal +residence of the princes of South Wales. In the year 876, +Roderic the Great, having divided the principalities of North and +South Wales, and Powys land, amongst his three sons, built for +each of them a palace. The sovereignty of South Wales, with +the castle of Dinevor, fell to the lot of Cadell. [The +ruins of Dinevor Castle still crown the summit of the hill which +overshadows the town of Llandilo, 12 miles from Carmarthen.]</p> +<p><a name="footnote74a"></a><a href="#citation74a" +class="footnote">[74a]</a> There is a spring very near the +north side of Dinevor park wall, which bears the name of +Nant-y-rhibo, or the bewitched brook, which may, perhaps, be the +one here alluded to by Giraldus.</p> +<p><a name="footnote74b"></a><a href="#citation74b" +class="footnote">[74b]</a> Pencadair is a small village +situated to the north of Carmarthen.</p> +<p><a name="footnote75a"></a><a href="#citation75a" +class="footnote">[75a]</a> Alba Domus was called in Welsh +Ty Gwyn ar Daf, or the White House on the river Taf. In the +history of the primitive British church, Ty Gwyn, or white house, +is used in a sense equivalent to a charter-house. The White +House College, or Bangor y Ty Gwyn, is pretended to have been +founded about 480, by Paul Hên, or Paulius, a saint of the +congregation of Illtyd. From this origin, the celebrated +Cistercian monastery is said to have derived its +establishment. Powel, in his chronicle, says, “For +the first abbey or frier house that we read of in Wales, sith the +destruction of the noble house of Bangor, which savoured not of +Romish dregges, was the Tuy Gwyn, built the yeare 1146, and after +they swarmed like bees through all the countrie.” +(Powel, p. 254.)—Authors differ with respect to the founder +of this abbey; some have attributed it to Rhys ap Tewdwr, prince +of South Wales; and others to Bernard, bishop of Saint +David’s, who died about the year 1148. The latter +account is corroborated by the following passage in +Wharton’s Anglia Sacra: “Anno 1143 ducti sunt monachi +ordinis Cisterciensis qui modo sunt apud Albam Landam, in West +Walliam, per Bernardum episcopum.” Leland, in his +Collectanea, says, “Whitland, abbat. Cistert., Rhesus +filius Theodori princeps Suth Walliæ primus +fundator;” and in his Itinerary, mentions it as a convent +of Bernardynes, “which yet stondeth.”</p> +<p><a name="footnote75b"></a><a href="#citation75b" +class="footnote">[75b]</a> Saint Clears is a long, +straggling village, at the junction of the river Cathgenny with +the Tâf. Immediately on the banks of the former, and +not far from its junction with the latter, stood the castle, of +which not one stone is left; but the artificial tumulus on which +the citadel was placed, and other broken ground, mark its ancient +site.</p> +<p><a name="footnote76a"></a><a href="#citation76a" +class="footnote">[76a]</a> Lanwadein, now called Lawhaden, +is a small village about four miles from Narberth, on the banks +of the river Cleddeu.</p> +<p><a name="footnote76b"></a><a href="#citation76b" +class="footnote">[76b]</a> Daugleddeu, so called from Dau, +two, and Cled, or Cleddau, a sword. The rivers Cledheu have +their source in the Prescelly mountain, unite their streams below +Haverfordwest, and run into Milford Haven, which in Welsh is +called Aberdaugleddau, or the confluence of the two rivers +Cledheu.</p> +<p><a name="footnote76c"></a><a href="#citation76c" +class="footnote">[76c]</a> Haverford, now called +Haverfordwest, is a considerable town on the river Cledheu, with +an ancient castle, three churches, and some monastic +remains. The old castle (now used as the county gaol), from +its size and commanding situation, adds greatly to the +picturesque appearance of this town. [The old castle is no +longer used as a gaol.]</p> +<p><a name="footnote79a"></a><a href="#citation79a" +class="footnote">[79a]</a> The province of Rhos, in which +the town of Haverfordwest is situated, was peopled by a colony of +Flemings during the reign of king Henry I.</p> +<p><a name="footnote79b"></a><a href="#citation79b" +class="footnote">[79b]</a> St. Caradoc was born of a good +family in Brecknockshire, and after a liberal education at home, +attached himself to the court of Rhys Prince of South Wales, whom +he served a long time with diligence and fidelity. He was +much esteemed and beloved by him, till having unfortunately lost +two favourite greyhounds, which had been committed to his care, +that prince, in a fury, threatened his life; upon which Caradoc +determined to change masters, and made a vow on the spot to +consecrate the remainder of his days to God, by a single and +religious life. He went to Llandaff, received from its +bishop the clerical tonsure and habit, and retired to the +deserted church of St. Kined, and afterwards to a still more +solitary abode in the Isle of Ary, from whence he was taken +prisoner by some Norwegian pirates, but soon released. His +last place of residence was at St. Ismael, in the province of +Rhos, where he died in 1124, and was buried with great honour in +the cathedral of St. David’s. We must not confound +this retreat of Caradoc with the village of St. Ismael on the +borders of Milford Haven. His hermitage was situated in the +parish of Haroldstone, near the town of Haverfordwest, whose +church has St. Ismael for its patron, and probably near a place +called Poorfield, the common on which Haverfordwest races are +held, as there is a well there called Caradoc’s Well, round +which, till within these few years, there was a sort of vanity +fair, where cakes were sold, and country games celebrated. +[Caradoc was canonised by Pope Innocent III. at the instance of +Giraldus.]</p> +<p><a name="footnote80"></a><a href="#citation80" +class="footnote">[80]</a> This curious superstition is +still preserved, in a debased form, among the descendants of the +Flemish population of this district, where the young women +practise a sort of divination with the bladebone of a shoulder of +mutton to discover who will be their sweetheart. It is +still more curious that William de Rubruquis, in the thirteenth +century, found the same superstition existing among the +Tartars.</p> +<p><a name="footnote82a"></a><a href="#citation82a" +class="footnote">[82a]</a> Arnulph, younger son of Roger de +Montgomery, did his homage for Dyved, and is said, by our author, +to have erected a slender fortress with stakes and turf at +Pembroke, in the reign of king Henry I., which, however, appears +to have been so strong as to have resisted the hostile attack of +Cadwgan ap Bleddyn in 1092, and of several lords of North Wales, +in 1094.</p> +<p><a name="footnote82b"></a><a href="#citation82b" +class="footnote">[82b]</a> Walter Fitz-Other, at the time +of the general survey of England by William the Conqueror, was +castellan of Windsor, warden of the forests in Berkshire, and +possessed several lordships in the counties of Middlesex, +Hampshire, and Buckinghamshire, which dominus Otherus is said to +have held in the time of Edward the Confessor. William, the +eldest son of Walter, took the surname of Windsor from his +father’s office, and was ancestor to the lords Windsor, who +have since been created earls of Plymouth: and from Gerald, +brother of William, the Geralds, Fitz-geralds, and many other +families are lineally descended. The Gerald here mentioned +by Giraldus is sometimes surnamed De Windsor, and also +Fitz-Walter, <i>i.e.</i> the son of Walter; having slain Owen, +son of Cadwgan ap Bleddyn, chief lord of Cardiganshire, he was +made president of the county of Pembroke.</p> +<p><a name="footnote83"></a><a href="#citation83" +class="footnote">[83]</a> Wilfred is mentioned by Browne +Willis in his list of bishops of St. David’s, as the +forty-seventh, under the title of Wilfride, or Griffin: he died +about the year 1116.</p> +<p><a name="footnote84"></a><a href="#citation84" +class="footnote">[84]</a> Maenor Pyrr, now known by the +name of Manorbeer, is a small village on the sea coast, between +Tenby and Pembroke, with the remaining shell of a large +castle. Our author has given a farfetched etymology to this +castle and the adjoining island, in calling them the mansion and +island of Pyrrhus: a much more natural and congenial conjecture +may be made in supposing Maenor Pyrr to be derived from Maenor, a +Manor, and Pyrr the plural of Por, a lord; <i>i.e.</i> the Manor +of the lords, and, consequently, Inys Pyrr, the Island of the +lords. As no mention whatever is made of the castle in the +Welsh Chronicle, I am inclined to think it was only a castellated +mansion, and therefore considered of no military importance in +those days of continued warfare throughout Wales. It is one +of the most interesting spots in our author’s Itinerary, +for it was the property of the Barri family, and the birth-place +of Giraldus; in the parish church, the sepulchral effigy of a +near relation, perhaps a brother, is still extant, in good +preservation. Our author has evidently made a digression in +order to describe this place.</p> +<p><a name="footnote86a"></a><a href="#citation86a" +class="footnote">[86a]</a> The house of Stephen Wiriet was, +I presume, Orielton. There is a monument in the church of +St. Nicholas, at Pembroke, to the memory of John, son and heir of +Sir Hugh Owen, of Bodeon in Anglesea, knight, and Elizabeth, +daughter and heir of George Wiriet, of Orielton, <span +class="GutSmall">A.D.</span> 1612.</p> +<p><a name="footnote86b"></a><a href="#citation86b" +class="footnote">[86b]</a> The family name of Not, or Nott, +still exists in Pembrokeshire. [The descendants of Sir Hugh +continued to live at Orielton, and the title is still in +existence.]</p> +<p><a name="footnote88"></a><a href="#citation88" +class="footnote">[88]</a> There are two churches in +Pembrokeshire called Stackpoole, one of which, called Stackpoole +Elidor, derived its name probably from the Elidore de Stakepole +mentioned in this chapter by Giraldus. It contains several +ancient monuments, and amongst them the effigies of a +cross-legged knight, which has been for many years attributed to +the aforesaid Elidore.</p> +<p><a name="footnote90"></a><a href="#citation90" +class="footnote">[90]</a> Ramsey Island, near St. +David’s, was always famous for its breed of falcons.</p> +<p><a name="footnote91a"></a><a href="#citation91a" +class="footnote">[91a]</a> Camros, a small village, +containing nothing worthy of remark, excepting a large +tumulus. It appears, by this route of the Crusaders, that +the ancient road to Menevia, or St. David’s, led through +Camros, whereas the present turnpike road lies a mile and a half +to the left of it. It then descends to Niwegal Sands, and +passes near the picturesque little harbour of Solvach, situated +in a deep and narrow cove, surrounded by high rocks.</p> +<p><a name="footnote91b"></a><a href="#citation91b" +class="footnote">[91b]</a> The remains of vast submerged +forests are commonly found on many parts of the coast of Wales, +especially in the north. Giraldus has elsewhere spoken of +this event in the Vaticinal History, book i. chap. 35.</p> +<p><a name="footnote94"></a><a href="#citation94" +class="footnote">[94]</a> Giraldus, ever glad to <i>pun</i> +upon words, here opposes the word <i>nomen</i> to +<i>omen</i>. “<i>Plus nominis habens quàm +ominis</i>.” He may have perhaps borrowed this +expression from Plautus. Plautus Delphini, tom. ii. p. +27.—Actus iv., Scena iv.</p> +<p><a name="footnote96"></a><a href="#citation96" +class="footnote">[96]</a> Armorica is derived from the +Celtic words Ar and Mor, which signify on or near the sea, and so +called to distinguish it from the more inland parts of +Britany. The maritime cities of Gaul were called +“Armoricæ civitates—Universis civitatibus +quæ oceanum attingunt, quæque Gallorum consuetudine +Armoricæ +appellantur.”—<i>Cæsar</i>. +<i>Comment</i>, lib. vii.</p> +<p><a name="footnote97"></a><a href="#citation97" +class="footnote">[97]</a> The bishops of Hereford, +Worcester, Llandaff, Bangor, St. Asaph, Llanbadarn, and Margam, +or Glamorgan.</p> +<p><a name="footnote98"></a><a href="#citation98" +class="footnote">[98]</a> The value of the carucate is +rather uncertain, or, probably, it varied in different districts +according to the character of the land; but it is considered to +have been usually equivalent to a hide, that is, to about 240 +statute acres.</p> +<p><a name="footnote99a"></a><a href="#citation99a" +class="footnote">[99a]</a> This little brook does not, in +modern times, deserve the title here given to it by Giraldus, for +it produces trout of a most delicious flavour.</p> +<p><a name="footnote99b"></a><a href="#citation99b" +class="footnote">[99b]</a> See the Vaticinal History, book +i. c. 37.</p> +<p><a name="footnote100"></a><a href="#citation100" +class="footnote">[100]</a> Lechlavar, so called from the words in +Welsh, Llêc, a stone, and Llavar, speech.</p> +<p><a name="footnote102a"></a><a href="#citation102a" +class="footnote">[102a]</a> Cemmeis, Cemmaes, Kemes, and +Kemeys. Thus is the name of this district variously +spelt. Cemmaes in Welsh signifies a circle or amphitheatre +for games.</p> +<p><a name="footnote102b"></a><a href="#citation102b" +class="footnote">[102b]</a> [Cardigan.]</p> +<p><a name="footnote102c"></a><a href="#citation102c" +class="footnote">[102c]</a> There is place in Cemmaes now +called Tre-liffan, <i>i.e.</i> Toad’s town; and over a +chimney-piece in the house there is a figure of a toad sculptured +in marble, said to have been brought from Italy, and intended +probably to confirm and commemorate this tradition of +Giraldus.</p> +<p><a name="footnote103a"></a><a href="#citation103a" +class="footnote">[103a]</a> Preseleu, Preselaw, Prescelly, +Presselw.</p> +<p><a name="footnote103b"></a><a href="#citation103b" +class="footnote">[103b]</a> St. Bernacus is said, by +Cressy, to have been a man of admirable sanctity, who, through +devotion, made a journey to Rome; and from thence returning into +Britany, filled all places with the fame of his piety and +miracles. He is commemorated on the 7th of April. +Several churches in Wales were dedicated to him; one of which, +called Llanfyrnach, or the church of St. Bernach, is situated on +the eastern side of the Prescelley mountain.</p> +<p><a name="footnote103c"></a><a href="#citation103c" +class="footnote">[103c]</a> The “castrum apud +Lanhever” was at Nevern, a small village between Newport +and Cardigan, situated on the banks of a little river bearing the +same name which discharges itself into the sea at Newport. +On a hill immediately above the western side of the parish +church, is the site of a large castle, undoubtedly the one +alluded to by Giraldus.</p> +<p><a name="footnote105a"></a><a href="#citation105a" +class="footnote">[105a]</a> On the Cemmaes, or +Pembrokeshire side of the river Teivi, and near the end of the +bridge, there is a place still called Park y Cappel, or the +Chapel Field, which is undoubtedly commemorative of the +circumstance recorded by our author.</p> +<p><a name="footnote105b"></a><a href="#citation105b" +class="footnote">[105b]</a> Now known by the name of +Kenarth, which may be derived from Cefn y garth—the back of +the wear, a ridge of land behind the wear.</p> +<p><a name="footnote106a"></a><a href="#citation106a" +class="footnote">[106a]</a> The name of St. Ludoc is not +found in the lives of the saints. Leland mentions a St. +Clitauc, who had a church dedicated to him in South Wales, and +who was killed by some of his companions whilst hunting. +“Clitaucus Southe-Walliæ regulus inter venandum a +suis sodalibus occisus est. Ecciesia S. Clitauci in Southe +Wallia.”—<i>Leland</i>, <i>Itin.</i>, tom. viii. p. +95.</p> +<p><a name="footnote106b"></a><a href="#citation106b" +class="footnote">[106b]</a> The Teivy is still very justly +distinguished for the quantity and quality of its salmon, but the +beaver no longer disturbs its streams. That this animal did +exist in the days of Howel Dha (though even then a rarity), the +mention made of it in his laws, and the high price set upon its +skin, most clearly evince; but if the castor of Giraldus, and the +avanc of Humphrey Llwyd and of the Welsh dictionaries, be really +the same animal, it certainly was not peculiar to the Teivi, but +was equally known in North Wales, as the names of places +testify. A small lake in Montgomeryshire is called Llyn yr +Afangc; a pool in the river Conwy, not far from Bettws, bears the +same name, and the vale called Nant Ffrancon, upon the river +Ogwen, in Caernarvonshire, is supposed by the natives to be a +corruption from Nant yr Afan cwm, or the Vale of the +Beavers. Mr. Owen, in his dictionary, says, “That it +has been seen in this vale within the memory of man.” +Giraldus has previously spoken of the beaver in his Topography of +Ireland, Distinc. i. c. 21.</p> +<p><a name="footnote109a"></a><a href="#citation109a" +class="footnote">[109a]</a> Our author having made a long +digression, in order to introduce the history of the beaver, now +continues his Itinerary. From Cardigan, the archbishop +proceeded towards Pont-Stephen, leaving a hill, called Cruc Mawr, +on the left hand, which still retains its ancient name, and +agrees exactly with the position given to it by Giraldus. +On its summit is a tumulus, and some appearance of an +intrenchment.</p> +<p><a name="footnote109b"></a><a href="#citation109b" +class="footnote">[109b]</a> In 1135.</p> +<p><a name="footnote109c"></a><a href="#citation109c" +class="footnote">[109c]</a> Lampeter, or Llanbedr, a small +town near the river Teivi, still retains the name of +Pont-Stephen.</p> +<p><a name="footnote109d"></a><a href="#citation109d" +class="footnote">[109d]</a> Leland thus speaks of Ystrad +Fflur or Strata Florida: “Strateflere is set round about +with montanes not far distant, except on the west parte, where +Diffrin Tyve is. Many hilles therabout hath bene well +woddid, as evidently by old rotes apperith, but now in them is +almost no woode—the causes be these. First, the wood +cut down was never copisid, and this hath beene a cause of +destruction of wood thorough Wales. Secondly, after cutting +down of woodys, the gottys hath so bytten the young spring that +it never grew but lyke shrubbes. Thirddely, men for the +monys destroied the great woddis that thei should not harborow +theves.” This monastery is situated in the wildest +part of Cardiganshire, surrounded on three sides by a lofty range +of those mountains, called by our author Ellennith; a spot +admirably suited to the severe and recluse order of the +Cistercians.</p> +<p><a name="footnote110a"></a><a href="#citation110a" +class="footnote">[110a]</a> [Melenydd or Maelienydd.]</p> +<p><a name="footnote110b"></a><a href="#citation110b" +class="footnote">[110b]</a> Leaving Stratflur, the +archbishop and his train returned to Llanddewi Brefi, and from +thence proceeded to Llanbadarn Vawr.</p> +<p><a name="footnote111"></a><a href="#citation111" +class="footnote">[111]</a> Llanbadarn Fawr, the church of +St. Paternus the Great, is situated in a valley, at a short +distance from the sea-port town of Aberystwyth in +Cardiganshire.</p> +<p><a name="footnote112"></a><a href="#citation112" +class="footnote">[112]</a> The name of this bishop is said +to have been Idnerth, and the same personage whose death is +commemorated in an inscription at Llanddewi Brefi.</p> +<p><a name="footnote113a"></a><a href="#citation113a" +class="footnote">[113a]</a> This river is now called +Dovey.</p> +<p><a name="footnote113b"></a><a href="#citation113b" +class="footnote">[113b]</a> From Llanbadarn our travellers +directed their course towards the sea-coast, and ferrying over +the river Dovey, which separates North from South Wales, +proceeded to Towyn, in Merionethshire, where they passed the +night. [Venedotia is the Latin name for Gwynedd.]</p> +<p><a name="footnote113c"></a><a href="#citation113c" +class="footnote">[113c]</a> The province of Merionyth was +at this period occupied by David, the son of Owen Gwynedd, who +had seized it forcibly from its rightful inheritor. This +Gruffydd—who must not be confused with his +great-grandfather, the famous Gruffydd ap Conan, prince of +Gwynedd—was son to Conan ap Owen Gwynedd; he died <span +class="GutSmall">A.D.</span> 1200, and was buried in a +monk’s cowl, in the abbey of Conway.</p> +<p><a name="footnote113d"></a><a href="#citation113d" +class="footnote">[113d]</a> The epithet +“bifurcus,” ascribed by Giraldus to the river Maw, +alludes to its two branches, which unite their streams a little +way below Llaneltid bridge, and form an æstuary, which +flows down to the sea at Barmouth or Aber Maw. The ford at +this place, discovered by Malgo, no longer exists.</p> +<p><a name="footnote114a"></a><a href="#citation114a" +class="footnote">[114a]</a> Llanfair is a small village, +about a mile and a half from Harlech, with a very simple church, +placed in a retired spot, backed by precipitous mountains. +Here the archbishop and Giraldus slept, on their journey from +Towyn to Nevyn.</p> +<p><a name="footnote114b"></a><a href="#citation114b" +class="footnote">[114b]</a> Ardudwy was a comot of the +cantref Dunodic, in Merionethshire, and according to Leland, +“Streccith from half Trait Mawr to Abermaw on the shore XII +myles.” The bridge here alluded to, was probably over +the river Artro, which forms a small æstuary near the +village of Llanbedr.</p> +<p><a name="footnote115a"></a><a href="#citation115a" +class="footnote">[115a]</a> The Traeth Mawr, or the large +sands, are occasioned by a variety of springs and rivers which +flow from the Snowdon mountains, and, uniting their streams, form +an æstuary below Pont Aberglaslyn.</p> +<p><a name="footnote115b"></a><a href="#citation115b" +class="footnote">[115b]</a> The Traeth Bychan, or the small +sands, are chiefly formed by the river which runs down the +beautiful vale of Festiniog to Maentwrog and Tan y bwlch, near +which place it becomes navigable. Over each of these sands +the road leads from Merionyth into Caernarvonshire.</p> +<p><a name="footnote115c"></a><a href="#citation115c" +class="footnote">[115c]</a> Lleyn, the Canganorum +promontorium of Ptolemy, was an extensive hundred containing +three comots, and comprehending that long neck of land between +Caernarvon and Cardigan bays. Leland says, “Al Lene +is as it were a pointe into the se.”</p> +<p><a name="footnote115d"></a><a href="#citation115d" +class="footnote">[115d]</a> In mentioning the rivers which +the missionaries had lately crossed, our author has been guilty +of a great topographical error in placing the river Dissennith +between the Maw and Traeth Mawr, as also in placing the Arthro +between the Traeth Mawr and Traeth Bychan, as a glance at a map +will shew.</p> +<p><a name="footnote115e"></a><a href="#citation115e" +class="footnote">[115e]</a> To two personages of this name +the gift of prophecy was anciently attributed: one was called +Ambrosius, the other Sylvestris; the latter here mentioned (and +whose works Giraldus, after a long research, found at Nefyn) was, +according to the story, the son of Morvryn, and generally called +Merddin Wyllt, or Merddin the Wild. He is pretended to have +flourished about the middle of the sixth century, and ranked with +Merddin Emrys and Taliesin, under the appellation of the three +principal bards of the Isle of Britain.</p> +<p><a name="footnote116a"></a><a href="#citation116a" +class="footnote">[116a]</a> This island once afforded, +according to the old accounts, an asylum to twenty thousand +saints, and after death, graves to as many of their bodies; +whence it has been called Insula Sanctorum, the Isle of +Saints. This island derived its British name of Enlli from +the fierce current which rages between it and the main +land. The Saxons named it Bardsey, probably from the Bards, +who retired hither, preferring solitude to the company of +invading foreigners.</p> +<p><a name="footnote116b"></a><a href="#citation116b" +class="footnote">[116b]</a> This ancient city has been +recorded by a variety of names. During the time of the +Romans it was called Segontium, the site of which is now called +Caer Seiont, the fortress on the river Seiont, where the +Setantiorum portus, and the Seteia Æstuarium of Ptolemy +have also been placed. It is called, by Nennius, Caer +Custent, or the city of Constantius; and Matthew of Westminster +says, that about the year 1283 the body of Constantius, father of +the emperor Constantine, was found there, and honourably +desposited in the church by order of Edward I.</p> +<p><a name="footnote116c"></a><a href="#citation116c" +class="footnote">[116c]</a> I have searched in vain for a +valley which would answer the description here given by Geraldus, +and the scene of so much pleasantry to the travellers; for +neither do the old or new road, from Caernarvon to Bangor, in any +way correspond. But I have since been informed, that there +is a valley called Nant y Garth (near the residence of Ashton +Smith, Esq. at Vaenol), which terminates at about half a +mile’s distance from the Menai, and therefore not +observable from the road; it is a serpentine ravine of more than +a mile, in a direction towards the mountains, and probably that +which the crusaders crossed on their journey to Bangor.</p> +<p><a name="footnote117"></a><a href="#citation117" +class="footnote">[117]</a> Bangor.—This cathedral +church must not be confounded with the celebrated college of the +same name, in Flintshire, founded by Dunod Vawr, son of Pabo, a +chieftain who lived about the beginning of the sixth century, and +from him called Bangor Dunod. The Bangor, <i>i.e.</i> the +college, in Caernarvonshire, is properly called Bangor Deiniol, +Bangor Vawr yn Arllechwedd, and Bangor Vawr uwch Conwy. It +owes its origin to Deiniol, son of Dunod ap Pabo, a saint who +lived in the early part of the sixth century, and in the year 525 +founded this college at Bangor, in Caernarvonshire, over which he +presided as abbot. Guy Rufus, called by our author Guianus, +was at this time bishop of this see, and died in 1190.</p> +<p><a name="footnote118a"></a><a href="#citation118a" +class="footnote">[118a]</a> Guianus, or Guy Rufus, dean of +Waltham, in Essex, and consecrated to this see, at Ambresbury, +Wilts, in May 1177.</p> +<p><a name="footnote118b"></a><a href="#citation118b" +class="footnote">[118b]</a> Mona, or Anglesey.</p> +<p><a name="footnote118c"></a><a href="#citation118c" +class="footnote">[118c]</a> The spot selected by Baldwin +for addressing the multitude, has in some degree been elucidated +by the anonymous author of the Supplement to Rowland’s Mona +Antiqua. He says, that “From tradition and memorials +still retained, we have reasons to suppose that they met in an +open place in the parish of Landisilio, called Cerrig y +Borth. The inhabitants, by the grateful remembrance, to +perpetuate the honour of that day, called the place where the +archbishop stood, Carreg yr Archjagon, <i>i.e.</i> the +Archbishop’s Rock; and where prince Roderic stood, Maen +Roderic, or the Stone of Roderic.” This account is in +part corroborated by the following communication from Mr. Richard +Llwyd of Beaumaris, who made personal inquiries on the +spot. “Cerrig y Borth, being a rough, undulating +district, could not, for that reason, have been chosen for +addressing a multitude; but adjoining it there are two eminences +which command a convenient surface for that purpose; one called +Maen Rodi (the Stone or Rock of Roderic), the property of Owen +Williams, Esq.; and the other Carreg Iago, belonging to Lord +Uxbridge. This last, as now pronounced, means the Rock of +St. James; but I have no difficulty in admitting, that Carreg yr +Arch Iagon may (by the compression of common, undiscriminating +language, and the obliteration of the event from ignorant minds +by the lapse of so many centuries) be contracted into Carreg +Iago. Cadair yr archesgob is now also contracted into +Cadair (chair), a seat naturally formed in the rock, with a rude +arch over it, on the road side, which is a rough terrace over the +breast of a rocky and commanding cliff, and the nearest way from +the above eminences to the insulated church of Landisilio. +This word Cadair, though in general language a chair, yet when +applied to exalted situations, means an observatory, as Cadair +Idris, etc.; but there can, in my opinion, be no doubt that this +seat in the rock is that described by the words Cadair yr +Archesgob.” [Still more probable, and certainly more +flattering to Giraldus, is that it was called “Cadair yr +Arch Ddiacon” (the Archdeacon’s chair).]</p> +<p><a name="footnote120a"></a><a href="#citation120a" +class="footnote">[120a]</a> This hundred contained the +comots of Mynyw, or St. David’s, and Pencaer.</p> +<p><a name="footnote120b"></a><a href="#citation120b" +class="footnote">[120b]</a> I am indebted to Mr. Richard +Llwyd for the following curious extract from a Manuscript of the +late intelligent Mr. Rowlands, respecting this miraculous stone, +called Maen Morddwyd, or the stone of the thigh, which once +existed in Llanidan parish. “Hic etiam lapis lumbi, +vulgo Maen Morddwyd, in hujus cæmiterii vallo locum sibi e +longo a retro tempore obtinuit, exindeque his nuperis annis, quo +nescio papicola vel qua inscia manu nulla ut olim retinente +virtute, quæ tunc penitus elanguit aut vetustate +evaporavit, nullo sane loci dispendio, nec illi qui eripuit +emolumento, ereptus et deportatus fuit.”</p> +<p><a name="footnote120c"></a><a href="#citation120c" +class="footnote">[120c]</a> Hugh, earl of Chester. +The first earl of Chester after the Norman conquest, was Gherbod, +a Fleming, who, having obtained leave from king William to go +into Flanders for the purpose of arranging some family concerns, +was taken and detained a prisoner by his enemies; upon which the +conqueror bestowed the earldom of Chester on Hugh de Abrincis or +of Avranches, “to hold as freely by the sword, as the king +himself did England by the crown.”</p> +<p><a name="footnote121"></a><a href="#citation121" +class="footnote">[121]</a> This church is at Llandyfrydog, +a small village in Twrkelin hundred, not far distant from +Llanelian, and about three miles from the Bay of Dulas. St. +Tyvrydog, to whom it was dedicated, was one of the sons of +Arwystyl Glof, a saint who lived in the latter part of the sixth +century.</p> +<p><a name="footnote123a"></a><a href="#citation123a" +class="footnote">[123a]</a> Ynys Lenach, now known by the +name of Priestholme Island, bore also the title of Ynys Seiriol, +from a saint who resided upon it in the sixth century. It +is also mentioned by Dugdale and Pennant under the appellation of +Insula Glannauch.</p> +<p><a name="footnote123b"></a><a href="#citation123b" +class="footnote">[123b]</a> Alberic de Veer, or Vere, came +into England with William the Conqueror, and as a reward for his +military services, received very extensive possessions and lands, +particularly in the county of Essex. Alberic, his eldest +son, was great chamberlain of England in the reign of king Henry +I., and was killed <span class="GutSmall">A.D.</span> 1140, in a +popular tumult at London. Henry de Essex married one of his +daughters named Adeliza. He enjoyed, by inheritance, the +office of standard-bearer, and behaved himself so unworthily in +the military expedition which king Henry undertook against Owen +Gwynedd, prince of North Wales, in the year 1157, by throwing +down his ensign, and betaking himself to flight, that he was +challenged for this misdemeanor by Robert de Mountford, and by +him vanquished in single combat; whereby, according to the laws +of his country, his life was justly forfeited. But the king +interposing his royal mercy, spared it, but confiscated his +estates, ordering him to be shorn a monk, and placed in the abbey +of Reading. There appears to be some biographical error in +the words of Giraldus—“Filia scilicet Henrici de +Essexia,” for by the genealogical accounts of the Vere and +Essex families, we find that Henry de Essex married the daughter +of the second Alberic de Vere; whereas our author seems to imply, +that the mother of Alberic the second was daughter to Henry de +Essex.</p> +<p><a name="footnote124"></a><a href="#citation124" +class="footnote">[124]</a> “And Jacob took him rods +of green poplar, and of the hazel, and of the chesnut tree, and +peeled white strakes in them, and made the white appear which was +in the rods. And he set the rods, which he had peeled, +before the flocks in the gutters in the watering troughs, when +the flocks came to drink, that they should conceive when they +came to drink. And the flocks conceived before the rods, +and brought forth cattle speckled and spotted.”—Gen. +xxx.</p> +<p><a name="footnote125a"></a><a href="#citation125a" +class="footnote">[125a]</a> Owen Gwynedd, the son of +Gruffydd ap Conan, died in 1169, and was buried at Bangor. +When Baldwin, during his progress, visited Bangor and saw his +tomb, he charged the bishop (Guy Ruffus) to remove the body out +of the cathedral, when he had a fit opportunity so to do, in +regard that archbishop Becket had excommunicated him heretofore, +because he had married his first cousin, the daughter of Grono ap +Edwyn, and that notwithstanding he had continued to live with her +till she died. The bishop, in obedience to the charge, made +a passage from the vault through the south wall of the church +underground, and thus secretly shoved the body into the +churchyard.—<i>Hengwrt</i>. <i>MSS.</i> +Cadwalader brother of Owen Gwynedd, died in 1172.</p> +<p><a name="footnote125b"></a><a href="#citation125b" +class="footnote">[125b]</a> The Merlin here mentioned was +called Ambrosius, and according to the Cambrian Biography +flourished about the middle of the fifth century. Other +authors say, that this reputed prophet and magician was the son +of a Welsh nun, daughter of a king of Demetia, and born at +Caermarthen, and that he was made king of West Wales by +Vortigern, who then reigned in Britain.</p> +<p><a name="footnote126"></a><a href="#citation126" +class="footnote">[126]</a> Owen Gwynedd “left behind +him manie children gotten by diverse women, which were not +esteemed by their mothers and birth, but by their prowes and +valiantnesse.” By his first wife, Gladus, the +daughter of Llywarch ap Trahaern ap Caradoc, he had Orwerth +Drwyndwn, that is, Edward with the broken nose; for which defect +he was deemed unfit to preside over the principality of North +Wales and was deprived of his rightful inheritance, which was +seized by his brother David, who occupied it for the space of +twenty-four years.</p> +<p><a name="footnote128a"></a><a href="#citation128a" +class="footnote">[128a]</a> The travellers pursuing their +journey along the sea coast, crossed the æstuary of the +river Conway under Deganwy, a fortress of very remote +antiquity.</p> +<p><a name="footnote128b"></a><a href="#citation128b" +class="footnote">[128b]</a> At this period the Cistercian +monastery of Conway was in its infancy, for its foundation has +been attributed to Llewelyn ap Iorwerth, in the year 1185, (only +three years previous to Baldwin’s visitation,) who endowed +it with very extensive possessions and singular privileges. +Like Stratflur, this abbey was the repository of the national +records, and the mausoleum of many of its princes.</p> +<p><a name="footnote129a"></a><a href="#citation129a" +class="footnote">[129a]</a> [David was the illegitimate son +of Owen Gwynedd, and had dispossessed his brother, Iorwerth +Drwyndwn.]</p> +<p><a name="footnote129b"></a><a href="#citation129b" +class="footnote">[129b]</a> This ebbing spring in the +province of Tegeingl, or Flintshire, has been placed by the old +annotator on Giraldus at Kilken, which Humphrey Llwyd, in his +Breviary, also mentions.</p> +<p><a name="footnote129c"></a><a href="#citation129c" +class="footnote">[129c]</a> See before, the Topography of +Ireland, Distinc. ii. c. 7.</p> +<p><a name="footnote129d"></a><a href="#citation129d" +class="footnote">[129d]</a> Saint Asaph, in size, though +not in revenues, may deserve the epithet of +“paupercula” attached to it by Giraldus. From +its situation near the banks of the river Elwy, it derived the +name of Llanelwy, or the church upon the Elwy.</p> +<p><a name="footnote129e"></a><a href="#citation129e" +class="footnote">[129e]</a> Leaving Llanelwy, or St. Asaph, +the archbishop proceeded to the little cell of Basinwerk, where +he and his attendants passed the night. It is situated at a +short distance from Holywell, on a gentle eminence above a +valley, watered by the copious springs that issue from St. +Winefred’s well, and on the borders of a marsh, which +extends towards the coast of Cheshire.</p> +<p><a name="footnote129f"></a><a href="#citation129f" +class="footnote">[129f]</a> Coleshill is a township in +Holywell parish, Flintshire, which gives name to a hundred, and +was so called from its abundance of fossil fuel. Pennant, +vol. i. p. 42.</p> +<p><a name="footnote130"></a><a href="#citation130" +class="footnote">[130]</a> The three military expeditions +of king Henry into Wales, here mentioned, were <span +class="GutSmall">A.D.</span> 1157, the first expedition into +North Wales; <span class="GutSmall">A.D.</span> 1162, the second +expedition into South Wales; <span class="GutSmall">A.D.</span> +1165, the third expedition into North Wales. In the first, +the king was obliged to retreat with considerable loss, and the +king’s standard-bearer, Henry de Essex, was accused of +having in a cowardly manner abandoned the royal standard and led +to a serious disaster.</p> +<p><a name="footnote131a"></a><a href="#citation131a" +class="footnote">[131a]</a> The lake of Penmelesmere, or +Pymplwy meer, or the meer of the five parishes adjoining the +lake, is, in modern days, better known by the name of Bala +Pool. The assertion made by Giraldus, of salmon never being +found in the lake of Bala, is not founded on truth.</p> +<p><a name="footnote131b"></a><a href="#citation131b" +class="footnote">[131b]</a> Giraldus seems to have been +mistaken respecting the burial-place of the emperor Henry V., for +he died May 23, <span class="GutSmall">A.D.</span> 1125, at +Utrecht, and his body was conveyed to Spire for interment.</p> +<p><a name="footnote132"></a><a href="#citation132" +class="footnote">[132]</a> This legend, which represents +king Harold as having escaped from the battle of Hastings, and as +having lived years after as a hermit on the borders of Wales, is +mentioned by other old writers, and has been adopted as true by +some modern writers.</p> +<p><a name="footnote133a"></a><a href="#citation133a" +class="footnote">[133a]</a> Some difficulty occurs in +fixing the situation of the Album Monasterium, mentioned in the +text, as three churches in the county of Shropshire bore that +appellation; the first at Whitchurch, the second at Oswestry, the +third at Alberbury. The narrative of our author is so +simple, and corresponds so well with the topography of the +country through which they passed, that I think no doubt ought to +be entertained about the course of their route. From +Chester they directed their way to the White Monastery, or +Whitchurch, and from thence towards Oswestry, where they slept, +and were entertained by William Fitz-Alan, after the English mode +of hospitality.</p> +<p><a name="footnote133b"></a><a href="#citation133b" +class="footnote">[133b]</a> By the Latin context it would +appear that Reiner was bishop of Oswestree: “Ab episcopo +namque loci illius Reinerio multitudo fuerat ante +signata.” Reiner succeeded Adam in the bishopric of +St. Asaph in the year 1186, and died in 1220. He had a +residence near Oswestry, at which place, previous to the arrival +of Baldwin, he had signed many of the people with the cross.</p> +<p><a name="footnote133c"></a><a href="#citation133c" +class="footnote">[133c]</a> In the time of William the +Conqueror, Alan, the son of Flathald, or Flaald, obtained, by the +gift of that king, the castle of Oswaldestre, with the territory +adjoining, which belonged to Meredith ap Blethyn, a Briton. +This Alan, having married the daughter and heir to Warine, +sheriff of Shropshire, had in her right the barony of the same +Warine. To him succeeded William, his son and heir. +He married Isabel de Say, daughter and heir to Helias de Say, +niece to Robert earl of Gloucester, lady of Clun, and left issue +by her, William, his son and successor, who, in the 19th Henry +II., or before, departed this life, leaving William Fitz-Alan his +son and heir, who is mentioned in the text.</p> +<p><a name="footnote134a"></a><a href="#citation134a" +class="footnote">[134a]</a> Robert de Belesme, earl of +Shrewsbury, was son of Roger de Montgomery, who led the centre +division of the army in that memorable battle which secured to +William the conquest of England, and for his services was +advanced to the earldoms of Arundel and Shrewsbury.</p> +<p><a name="footnote134b"></a><a href="#citation134b" +class="footnote">[134b]</a> This expedition into Wales took +place <span class="GutSmall">A.D.</span> 1165, and has been +already spoken of.</p> +<p><a name="footnote136"></a><a href="#citation136" +class="footnote">[136]</a> The princes mentioned by +Giraldus as most distinguished in North and South Wales, and most +celebrated in his time, were, 1. Owen, son of Gruffydd, in North +Wales; 2. Meredyth, son of Gruffydd, in South Wales; 3. Owen de +Cyfeilioc, in Powys; 4. Cadwalader, son of Gruffydd, in North +Wales; 5. Gruffydd of Maelor in Powys; 6. Rhys, son of Gruffydd, +in South Wales; 7. David, son of Owen, in North Wales; 8. Howel, +son of Iorwerth, in South Wales.</p> +<p>1. Owen Gwynedd, son of Gruffydd ap Conan, died in 1169, +having governed his country well and worthily for the space of +thirty-two years. He was fortunate and victorious in all +his affairs, and never took any enterprise in hand but he +achieved it. 2. Meredyth ap Gruffydd ap Rhys, lord of +Caerdigan and Stratywy, died in 1153, at the early age of +twenty-five; a worthy knight, fortunate in battle, just and +liberal to all men. 3. Owen Cyfeilioc was the son of +Gruffydd Meredyth ap Meredyth ap Blethyn, who was created lord of +Powys by Henry I., and died about the year 1197, leaving his +principality to his son Gwenwynwyn, from whom that part of Powys +was called Powys Gwenwynwyn, to distinguish it from Powys Vadoc, +the possession of the lords of Bromfield. The poems +ascribed to him possess great spirit, and prove that he was, as +Giraldus terms him, “linguæ dicacis,” in its +best sense. 4. Cadwalader, son of Gruffydd ap Conan, prince +of North Wales, died in 1175. Gruffydd of Maelor was son of +Madoc ap Meredyth ap Blethyn, prince of Powys, who died at +Winchester in 1160. “This man was ever the king of +England’s friend, and was one that feared God, and relieved +the poor: his body was conveyed honourably to Powys, and buried +at Myvod.” His son Gruffydd succeeded him in the +lordship of Bromfield, and died about the year 1190. 6. +Rhys ap Gruffydd, or the lord Rhys, was son of Gruffydd ap Rhys +ap Tewdwr, who died in 1137. The ancient writers have been +very profuse in their praises of this celebrated Prince. 7. +David, son of Owen Gwynedd, who, on the death if his father, +forcibly seized the principality of North Wales, slaying his +brother Howel in battle, and setting aside the claims of the +lawful inheritor of the throne, Iorwerth Trwyndwn, whose son, +Llewelyn ap Iorwerth, in 1194, recovered his inheritance. +8. Howel, son of Iorwerth of Caerleon, appears to have been +distinguished chiefly by his ferocity.</p> +<p><a name="footnote137"></a><a href="#citation137" +class="footnote">[137]</a> Malpas in Cheshire.</p> +<p><a name="footnote138"></a><a href="#citation138" +class="footnote">[138]</a> It appears that a small college +of prebendaries, or secular canons, resided at Bromfield in the +reign of king Henry I.; Osbert, the prior, being recorded as a +witness to a deed made before the year 1148. In 1155, they +became Benedictines, and surrendered church and lands to the +abbey of St. Peter’s at Gloucester, whereupon a prior and +monks were placed there, and continued till the +dissolution. An ancient gateway and some remains of the +priory still testify the existence of this religious house, the +local situation of which, near the confluence of the rivers Oney +and Teme, has been accurately described by Leland.</p> +<p><a name="footnote139"></a><a href="#citation139" +class="footnote">[139]</a> Baldwin was born at Exeter, in +Devonshire, of a low family, but being endowed by nature with +good abilities, applied them to an early cultivation of sacred +and profane literature. His good conduct procured him the +friendship of Bartholomew bishop of Exeter, who promoted him to +the archdeaconry of that see; resigning this preferment, he +assumed the cowl, and in a few years became abbot of the +Cistercian monastery at Ford. In the year 1180, he was +advanced to the bishopric of Worcester, and in 1184, translated +to the archiepiscopal see of Canterbury. In the year 1188, +he made his progress through Wales, preaching with fervour the +service of the Cross; to which holy cause he fell a sacrifice in +the year 1190, having religiously, honourably, and charitably +ended his days in the Holy Land.</p> +<p><a name="footnote140"></a><a href="#citation140" +class="footnote">[140]</a> Giraldus here alludes to the +dignity of archdeacon, which Baldwin had obtained in the church +of Exeter.</p> +<p>***END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE ITINERARY OF ARCHIBISHOP BALDWIN +THROUGH WALES***</p> +<pre> + + +***** This file should be named 1148-h.htm or 1148-h.zip****** + + +This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: +http://www.gutenberg.org/dirs/1/1/4/1148 + + +Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions will +be renamed. + +Creating the works from print editions not protected by U.S. copyright +law means that no one owns a United States copyright in these works, +so the Foundation (and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United +States without permission and without paying copyright +royalties. Special rules, set forth in the General Terms of Use part +of this license, apply to copying and distributing Project +Gutenberg-tm electronic works to protect the PROJECT GUTENBERG-tm +concept and trademark. Project Gutenberg is a registered trademark, +and may not be used if you charge for the eBooks, unless you receive +specific permission. If you do not charge anything for copies of this +eBook, complying with the rules is very easy. You may use this eBook +for nearly any purpose such as creation of derivative works, reports, +performances and research. They may be modified and printed and given +away--you may do practically ANYTHING in the United States with eBooks +not protected by U.S. copyright law. Redistribution is subject to the +trademark license, especially commercial redistribution. + +START: FULL LICENSE + +THE FULL PROJECT GUTENBERG LICENSE +PLEASE READ THIS BEFORE YOU DISTRIBUTE OR USE THIS WORK + +To protect the Project Gutenberg-tm mission of promoting the free +distribution of electronic works, by using or distributing this work +(or any other work associated in any way with the phrase "Project +Gutenberg"), you agree to comply with all the terms of the Full +Project Gutenberg-tm License available with this file or online at +www.gutenberg.org/license. + +Section 1. General Terms of Use and Redistributing Project +Gutenberg-tm electronic works + +1.A. By reading or using any part of this Project Gutenberg-tm +electronic work, you indicate that you have read, understand, agree to +and accept all the terms of this license and intellectual property +(trademark/copyright) agreement. If you do not agree to abide by all +the terms of this agreement, you must cease using and return or +destroy all copies of Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works in your +possession. If you paid a fee for obtaining a copy of or access to a +Project Gutenberg-tm electronic work and you do not agree to be bound +by the terms of this agreement, you may obtain a refund from the +person or entity to whom you paid the fee as set forth in paragraph +1.E.8. + +1.B. "Project Gutenberg" is a registered trademark. It may only be +used on or associated in any way with an electronic work by people who +agree to be bound by the terms of this agreement. There are a few +things that you can do with most Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works +even without complying with the full terms of this agreement. See +paragraph 1.C below. There are a lot of things you can do with Project +Gutenberg-tm electronic works if you follow the terms of this +agreement and help preserve free future access to Project Gutenberg-tm +electronic works. See paragraph 1.E below. + +1.C. The Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation ("the +Foundation" or PGLAF), owns a compilation copyright in the collection +of Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works. Nearly all the individual +works in the collection are in the public domain in the United +States. If an individual work is unprotected by copyright law in the +United States and you are located in the United States, we do not +claim a right to prevent you from copying, distributing, performing, +displaying or creating derivative works based on the work as long as +all references to Project Gutenberg are removed. Of course, we hope +that you will support the Project Gutenberg-tm mission of promoting +free access to electronic works by freely sharing Project Gutenberg-tm +works in compliance with the terms of this agreement for keeping the +Project Gutenberg-tm name associated with the work. You can easily +comply with the terms of this agreement by keeping this work in the +same format with its attached full Project Gutenberg-tm License when +you share it without charge with others. + +1.D. The copyright laws of the place where you are located also govern +what you can do with this work. Copyright laws in most countries are +in a constant state of change. If you are outside the United States, +check the laws of your country in addition to the terms of this +agreement before downloading, copying, displaying, performing, +distributing or creating derivative works based on this work or any +other Project Gutenberg-tm work. The Foundation makes no +representations concerning the copyright status of any work in any +country outside the United States. + +1.E. Unless you have removed all references to Project Gutenberg: + +1.E.1. The following sentence, with active links to, or other +immediate access to, the full Project Gutenberg-tm License must appear +prominently whenever any copy of a Project Gutenberg-tm work (any work +on which the phrase "Project Gutenberg" appears, or with which the +phrase "Project Gutenberg" is associated) is accessed, displayed, +performed, viewed, copied or distributed: + + This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere in the United States and + most other parts of the world at no cost and with almost no + restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it + under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included with this + eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org. If you are not located in the + United States, you'll have to check the laws of the country where you + are located before using this ebook. + +1.E.2. If an individual Project Gutenberg-tm electronic work is +derived from texts not protected by U.S. copyright law (does not +contain a notice indicating that it is posted with permission of the +copyright holder), the work can be copied and distributed to anyone in +the United States without paying any fees or charges. If you are +redistributing or providing access to a work with the phrase "Project +Gutenberg" associated with or appearing on the work, you must comply +either with the requirements of paragraphs 1.E.1 through 1.E.7 or +obtain permission for the use of the work and the Project Gutenberg-tm +trademark as set forth in paragraphs 1.E.8 or 1.E.9. + +1.E.3. If an individual Project Gutenberg-tm electronic work is posted +with the permission of the copyright holder, your use and distribution +must comply with both paragraphs 1.E.1 through 1.E.7 and any +additional terms imposed by the copyright holder. Additional terms +will be linked to the Project Gutenberg-tm License for all works +posted with the permission of the copyright holder found at the +beginning of this work. + +1.E.4. Do not unlink or detach or remove the full Project Gutenberg-tm +License terms from this work, or any files containing a part of this +work or any other work associated with Project Gutenberg-tm. + +1.E.5. Do not copy, display, perform, distribute or redistribute this +electronic work, or any part of this electronic work, without +prominently displaying the sentence set forth in paragraph 1.E.1 with +active links or immediate access to the full terms of the Project +Gutenberg-tm License. + +1.E.6. You may convert to and distribute this work in any binary, +compressed, marked up, nonproprietary or proprietary form, including +any word processing or hypertext form. However, if you provide access +to or distribute copies of a Project Gutenberg-tm work in a format +other than "Plain Vanilla ASCII" or other format used in the official +version posted on the official Project Gutenberg-tm web site +(www.gutenberg.org), you must, at no additional cost, fee or expense +to the user, provide a copy, a means of exporting a copy, or a means +of obtaining a copy upon request, of the work in its original "Plain +Vanilla ASCII" or other form. Any alternate format must include the +full Project Gutenberg-tm License as specified in paragraph 1.E.1. + +1.E.7. Do not charge a fee for access to, viewing, displaying, +performing, copying or distributing any Project Gutenberg-tm works +unless you comply with paragraph 1.E.8 or 1.E.9. + +1.E.8. You may charge a reasonable fee for copies of or providing +access to or distributing Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works +provided that + +* You pay a royalty fee of 20% of the gross profits you derive from + the use of Project Gutenberg-tm works calculated using the method + you already use to calculate your applicable taxes. The fee is owed + to the owner of the Project Gutenberg-tm trademark, but he has + agreed to donate royalties under this paragraph to the Project + Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation. Royalty payments must be paid + within 60 days following each date on which you prepare (or are + legally required to prepare) your periodic tax returns. Royalty + payments should be clearly marked as such and sent to the Project + Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation at the address specified in + Section 4, "Information about donations to the Project Gutenberg + Literary Archive Foundation." + +* You provide a full refund of any money paid by a user who notifies + you in writing (or by e-mail) within 30 days of receipt that s/he + does not agree to the terms of the full Project Gutenberg-tm + License. You must require such a user to return or destroy all + copies of the works possessed in a physical medium and discontinue + all use of and all access to other copies of Project Gutenberg-tm + works. + +* You provide, in accordance with paragraph 1.F.3, a full refund of + any money paid for a work or a replacement copy, if a defect in the + electronic work is discovered and reported to you within 90 days of + receipt of the work. + +* You comply with all other terms of this agreement for free + distribution of Project Gutenberg-tm works. + +1.E.9. If you wish to charge a fee or distribute a Project +Gutenberg-tm electronic work or group of works on different terms than +are set forth in this agreement, you must obtain permission in writing +from both the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation and The +Project Gutenberg Trademark LLC, the owner of the Project Gutenberg-tm +trademark. Contact the Foundation as set forth in Section 3 below. + +1.F. + +1.F.1. Project Gutenberg volunteers and employees expend considerable +effort to identify, do copyright research on, transcribe and proofread +works not protected by U.S. copyright law in creating the Project +Gutenberg-tm collection. Despite these efforts, Project Gutenberg-tm +electronic works, and the medium on which they may be stored, may +contain "Defects," such as, but not limited to, incomplete, inaccurate +or corrupt data, transcription errors, a copyright or other +intellectual property infringement, a defective or damaged disk or +other medium, a computer virus, or computer codes that damage or +cannot be read by your equipment. + +1.F.2. LIMITED WARRANTY, DISCLAIMER OF DAMAGES - Except for the "Right +of Replacement or Refund" described in paragraph 1.F.3, the Project +Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation, the owner of the Project +Gutenberg-tm trademark, and any other party distributing a Project +Gutenberg-tm electronic work under this agreement, disclaim all +liability to you for damages, costs and expenses, including legal +fees. YOU AGREE THAT YOU HAVE NO REMEDIES FOR NEGLIGENCE, STRICT +LIABILITY, BREACH OF WARRANTY OR BREACH OF CONTRACT EXCEPT THOSE +PROVIDED IN PARAGRAPH 1.F.3. YOU AGREE THAT THE FOUNDATION, THE +TRADEMARK OWNER, AND ANY DISTRIBUTOR UNDER THIS AGREEMENT WILL NOT BE +LIABLE TO YOU FOR ACTUAL, DIRECT, INDIRECT, CONSEQUENTIAL, PUNITIVE OR +INCIDENTAL DAMAGES EVEN IF YOU GIVE NOTICE OF THE POSSIBILITY OF SUCH +DAMAGE. + +1.F.3. LIMITED RIGHT OF REPLACEMENT OR REFUND - If you discover a +defect in this electronic work within 90 days of receiving it, you can +receive a refund of the money (if any) you paid for it by sending a +written explanation to the person you received the work from. If you +received the work on a physical medium, you must return the medium +with your written explanation. The person or entity that provided you +with the defective work may elect to provide a replacement copy in +lieu of a refund. If you received the work electronically, the person +or entity providing it to you may choose to give you a second +opportunity to receive the work electronically in lieu of a refund. If +the second copy is also defective, you may demand a refund in writing +without further opportunities to fix the problem. + +1.F.4. Except for the limited right of replacement or refund set forth +in paragraph 1.F.3, this work is provided to you 'AS-IS', WITH NO +OTHER WARRANTIES OF ANY KIND, EXPRESS OR IMPLIED, INCLUDING BUT NOT +LIMITED TO WARRANTIES OF MERCHANTABILITY OR FITNESS FOR ANY PURPOSE. + +1.F.5. Some states do not allow disclaimers of certain implied +warranties or the exclusion or limitation of certain types of +damages. If any disclaimer or limitation set forth in this agreement +violates the law of the state applicable to this agreement, the +agreement shall be interpreted to make the maximum disclaimer or +limitation permitted by the applicable state law. The invalidity or +unenforceability of any provision of this agreement shall not void the +remaining provisions. + +1.F.6. INDEMNITY - You agree to indemnify and hold the Foundation, the +trademark owner, any agent or employee of the Foundation, anyone +providing copies of Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works in +accordance with this agreement, and any volunteers associated with the +production, promotion and distribution of Project Gutenberg-tm +electronic works, harmless from all liability, costs and expenses, +including legal fees, that arise directly or indirectly from any of +the following which you do or cause to occur: (a) distribution of this +or any Project Gutenberg-tm work, (b) alteration, modification, or +additions or deletions to any Project Gutenberg-tm work, and (c) any +Defect you cause. + +Section 2. Information about the Mission of Project Gutenberg-tm + +Project Gutenberg-tm is synonymous with the free distribution of +electronic works in formats readable by the widest variety of +computers including obsolete, old, middle-aged and new computers. It +exists because of the efforts of hundreds of volunteers and donations +from people in all walks of life. + +Volunteers and financial support to provide volunteers with the +assistance they need are critical to reaching Project Gutenberg-tm's +goals and ensuring that the Project Gutenberg-tm collection will +remain freely available for generations to come. In 2001, the Project +Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation was created to provide a secure +and permanent future for Project Gutenberg-tm and future +generations. To learn more about the Project Gutenberg Literary +Archive Foundation and how your efforts and donations can help, see +Sections 3 and 4 and the Foundation information page at +www.gutenberg.org + +Section 3. Information about the Project Gutenberg Literary +Archive Foundation + +The Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation is a non profit +501(c)(3) educational corporation organized under the laws of the +state of Mississippi and granted tax exempt status by the Internal +Revenue Service. The Foundation's EIN or federal tax identification +number is 64-6221541. Contributions to the Project Gutenberg Literary +Archive Foundation are tax deductible to the full extent permitted by +U.S. federal laws and your state's laws. + +The Foundation's principal office is in Fairbanks, Alaska, with the +mailing address: PO Box 750175, Fairbanks, AK 99775, but its +volunteers and employees are scattered throughout numerous +locations. Its business office is located at 809 North 1500 West, Salt +Lake City, UT 84116, (801) 596-1887. Email contact links and up to +date contact information can be found at the Foundation's web site and +official page at www.gutenberg.org/contact + +For additional contact information: + + Dr. Gregory B. Newby + Chief Executive and Director + gbnewby@pglaf.org + +Section 4. Information about Donations to the Project Gutenberg +Literary Archive Foundation + +Project Gutenberg-tm depends upon and cannot survive without wide +spread public support and donations to carry out its mission of +increasing the number of public domain and licensed works that can be +freely distributed in machine readable form accessible by the widest +array of equipment including outdated equipment. Many small donations +($1 to $5,000) are particularly important to maintaining tax exempt +status with the IRS. + +The Foundation is committed to complying with the laws regulating +charities and charitable donations in all 50 states of the United +States. Compliance requirements are not uniform and it takes a +considerable effort, much paperwork and many fees to meet and keep up +with these requirements. We do not solicit donations in locations +where we have not received written confirmation of compliance. To SEND +DONATIONS or determine the status of compliance for any particular +state visit www.gutenberg.org/donate + +While we cannot and do not solicit contributions from states where we +have not met the solicitation requirements, we know of no prohibition +against accepting unsolicited donations from donors in such states who +approach us with offers to donate. + +International donations are gratefully accepted, but we cannot make +any statements concerning tax treatment of donations received from +outside the United States. U.S. laws alone swamp our small staff. + +Please check the Project Gutenberg Web pages for current donation +methods and addresses. Donations are accepted in a number of other +ways including checks, online payments and credit card donations. To +donate, please visit: www.gutenberg.org/donate + +Section 5. General Information About Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works. + +Professor Michael S. Hart was the originator of the Project +Gutenberg-tm concept of a library of electronic works that could be +freely shared with anyone. For forty years, he produced and +distributed Project Gutenberg-tm eBooks with only a loose network of +volunteer support. + +Project Gutenberg-tm eBooks are often created from several printed +editions, all of which are confirmed as not protected by copyright in +the U.S. unless a copyright notice is included. Thus, we do not +necessarily keep eBooks in compliance with any particular paper +edition. + +Most people start at our Web site which has the main PG search +facility: www.gutenberg.org + +This Web site includes information about Project Gutenberg-tm, +including how to make donations to the Project Gutenberg Literary +Archive Foundation, how to help produce our new eBooks, and how to +subscribe to our email newsletter to hear about new eBooks. + +</pre></body> +</html> diff --git a/LICENSE.txt b/LICENSE.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..6312041 --- /dev/null +++ b/LICENSE.txt @@ -0,0 +1,11 @@ +This eBook, including all associated images, markup, improvements, +metadata, and any other content or labor, has been confirmed to be +in the PUBLIC DOMAIN IN THE UNITED STATES. + +Procedures for determining public domain status are described in +the "Copyright How-To" at https://www.gutenberg.org. + +No investigation has been made concerning possible copyrights in +jurisdictions other than the United States. Anyone seeking to utilize +this eBook outside of the United States should confirm copyright +status under the laws that apply to them. diff --git a/README.md b/README.md new file mode 100644 index 0000000..dae7810 --- /dev/null +++ b/README.md @@ -0,0 +1,2 @@ +Project Gutenberg (https://www.gutenberg.org) public repository for +eBook #1148 (https://www.gutenberg.org/ebooks/1148) diff --git a/old/itwls10.txt b/old/itwls10.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..117070b --- /dev/null +++ b/old/itwls10.txt @@ -0,0 +1,5969 @@ +The Project Gutenberg Etext of Baldwin's Itinerary Through Wales +#2 in our series by Giraldus Cambrensis + + +Copyright laws are changing all over the world, be sure to check +the copyright laws for your country before posting these files!! + +Please take a look at the important information in this header. +We encourage you to keep this file on your own disk, keeping an +electronic path open for the next readers. Do not remove this. + + +**Welcome To The World of Free Plain Vanilla Electronic Texts** + +**Etexts Readable By Both Humans and By Computers, Since 1971** + +*These Etexts Prepared By Hundreds of Volunteers and Donations* + +Information on contacting Project Gutenberg to get Etexts, and +further information is included below. We need your donations. + + +The Itinerary of Archibishop Baldwin through Wales + +by Giraldus Cambrensis + +December, 1997 [Etext #1148] + + +The Project Gutenberg Etext of Baldwin's Itinerary Through Wales +******This file should be named itwls10.txt or itwls10.zip****** + +Corrected EDITIONS of our etexts get a new NUMBER, itwls11.txt. +VERSIONS based on separate sources get new LETTER, itwls10a.txt. + + +This etext was prepared by David Price +ccx074@coventry.ac.uk, from the 1912 J. M. Dent edition. + + +Project Gutenberg Etexts are usually created from multiple editions, +all of which are in the Public Domain in the United States, unless a +copyright notice is included. Therefore, we do NOT keep these books +in compliance with any particular paper edition, usually otherwise. + + +We are now trying to release all our books one month in advance +of the official release dates, for time for better editing. + +Please note: neither this list nor its contents are final till +midnight of the last day of the month of any such announcement. +The official release date of all Project Gutenberg Etexts is at +Midnight, Central Time, of the last day of the stated month. A +preliminary version may often be posted for suggestion, comment +and editing by those who wish to do so. To be sure you have an +up to date first edition [xxxxx10x.xxx] please check file sizes +in the first week of the next month. Since our ftp program has +a bug in it that scrambles the date [tried to fix and failed] a +look at the file size will have to do, but we will try to see a +new copy has at least one byte more or less. + + +Information about Project Gutenberg (one page) + +We produce about two million dollars for each hour we work. The +fifty hours is one conservative estimate for how long it we take +to get any etext selected, entered, proofread, edited, copyright +searched and analyzed, the copyright letters written, etc. This +projected audience is one hundred million readers. If our value +per text is nominally estimated at one dollar then we produce $2 +million dollars per hour this year as we release thirty-two text +files per month, or 384 more Etexts in 1997 for a total of 1000+ +If these reach just 10% of the computerized population, then the +total should reach over 100 billion Etexts given away. + +The Goal of Project Gutenberg is to Give Away One Trillion Etext +Files by the December 31, 2001. [10,000 x 100,000,000=Trillion] +This is ten thousand titles each to one hundred million readers, +which is only 10% of the present number of computer users. 2001 +should have at least twice as many computer users as that, so it +will require us reaching less than 5% of the users in 2001. + + +We need your donations more than ever! + + +All donations should be made to "Project Gutenberg/CMU": and are +tax deductible to the extent allowable by law. (CMU = Carnegie- +Mellon University). + +For these and other matters, please mail to: + +Project Gutenberg +P. O. Box 2782 +Champaign, IL 61825 + +When all other email fails try our Executive Director: +Michael S. Hart <hart@pobox.com> + +We would prefer to send you this information by email +(Internet, Bitnet, Compuserve, ATTMAIL or MCImail). + +****** +If you have an FTP program (or emulator), please +FTP directly to the Project Gutenberg archives: +[Mac users, do NOT point and click. . .type] + +ftp uiarchive.cso.uiuc.edu +login: anonymous +password: your@login +cd etext/etext90 through /etext96 +or cd etext/articles [get suggest gut for more information] +dir [to see files] +get or mget [to get files. . .set bin for zip files] +GET INDEX?00.GUT +for a list of books +and +GET NEW GUT for general information +and +MGET GUT* for newsletters. + +**Information prepared by the Project Gutenberg legal advisor** +(Three Pages) + + +***START**THE SMALL PRINT!**FOR PUBLIC DOMAIN ETEXTS**START*** +Why is this "Small Print!" statement here? You know: lawyers. +They tell us you might sue us if there is something wrong with +your copy of this etext, even if you got it for free from +someone other than us, and even if what's wrong is not our +fault. So, among other things, this "Small Print!" statement +disclaims most of our liability to you. It also tells you how +you can distribute copies of this etext if you want to. + +*BEFORE!* YOU USE OR READ THIS ETEXT +By using or reading any part of this PROJECT GUTENBERG-tm +etext, you indicate that you understand, agree to and accept +this "Small Print!" statement. If you do not, you can receive +a refund of the money (if any) you paid for this etext by +sending a request within 30 days of receiving it to the person +you got it from. If you received this etext on a physical +medium (such as a disk), you must return it with your request. + +ABOUT PROJECT GUTENBERG-TM ETEXTS +This PROJECT GUTENBERG-tm etext, like most PROJECT GUTENBERG- +tm etexts, is a "public domain" work distributed by Professor +Michael S. Hart through the Project Gutenberg Association at +Carnegie-Mellon University (the "Project"). Among other +things, this means that no one owns a United States copyright +on or for this work, so the Project (and you!) can copy and +distribute it in the United States without permission and +without paying copyright royalties. Special rules, set forth +below, apply if you wish to copy and distribute this etext +under the Project's "PROJECT GUTENBERG" trademark. + +To create these etexts, the Project expends considerable +efforts to identify, transcribe and proofread public domain +works. Despite these efforts, the Project's etexts and any +medium they may be on may contain "Defects". Among other +things, Defects may take the form of incomplete, inaccurate or +corrupt data, transcription errors, a copyright or other +intellectual property infringement, a defective or damaged +disk or other etext medium, a computer virus, or computer +codes that damage or cannot be read by your equipment. + +LIMITED WARRANTY; DISCLAIMER OF DAMAGES +But for the "Right of Replacement or Refund" described below, +[1] the Project (and any other party you may receive this +etext from as a PROJECT GUTENBERG-tm etext) disclaims all +liability to you for damages, costs and expenses, including +legal fees, and [2] YOU HAVE NO REMEDIES FOR NEGLIGENCE OR +UNDER STRICT LIABILITY, OR FOR BREACH OF WARRANTY OR CONTRACT, +INCLUDING BUT NOT LIMITED TO INDIRECT, CONSEQUENTIAL, PUNITIVE +OR INCIDENTAL DAMAGES, EVEN IF YOU GIVE NOTICE OF THE +POSSIBILITY OF SUCH DAMAGES. + +If you discover a Defect in this etext within 90 days of +receiving it, you can receive a refund of the money (if any) +you paid for it by sending an explanatory note within that +time to the person you received it from. If you received it +on a physical medium, you must return it with your note, and +such person may choose to alternatively give you a replacement +copy. If you received it electronically, such person may +choose to alternatively give you a second opportunity to +receive it electronically. + +THIS ETEXT IS OTHERWISE PROVIDED TO YOU "AS-IS". NO OTHER +WARRANTIES OF ANY KIND, EXPRESS OR IMPLIED, ARE MADE TO YOU AS +TO THE ETEXT OR ANY MEDIUM IT MAY BE ON, INCLUDING BUT NOT +LIMITED TO WARRANTIES OF MERCHANTABILITY OR FITNESS FOR A +PARTICULAR PURPOSE. + +Some states do not allow disclaimers of implied warranties or +the exclusion or limitation of consequential damages, so the +above disclaimers and exclusions may not apply to you, and you +may have other legal rights. + +INDEMNITY +You will indemnify and hold the Project, its directors, +officers, members and agents harmless from all liability, cost +and expense, including legal fees, that arise directly or +indirectly from any of the following that you do or cause: +[1] distribution of this etext, [2] alteration, modification, +or addition to the etext, or [3] any Defect. + +DISTRIBUTION UNDER "PROJECT GUTENBERG-tm" +You may distribute copies of this etext electronically, or by +disk, book or any other medium if you either delete this +"Small Print!" and all other references to Project Gutenberg, +or: + +[1] Only give exact copies of it. Among other things, this + requires that you do not remove, alter or modify the + etext or this "small print!" statement. You may however, + if you wish, distribute this etext in machine readable + binary, compressed, mark-up, or proprietary form, + including any form resulting from conversion by word pro- + cessing or hypertext software, but only so long as + *EITHER*: + + [*] The etext, when displayed, is clearly readable, and + does *not* contain characters other than those + intended by the author of the work, although tilde + (~), asterisk (*) and underline (_) characters may + be used to convey punctuation intended by the + author, and additional characters may be used to + indicate hypertext links; OR + + [*] The etext may be readily converted by the reader at + no expense into plain ASCII, EBCDIC or equivalent + form by the program that displays the etext (as is + the case, for instance, with most word processors); + OR + + [*] You provide, or agree to also provide on request at + no additional cost, fee or expense, a copy of the + etext in its original plain ASCII form (or in EBCDIC + or other equivalent proprietary form). + +[2] Honor the etext refund and replacement provisions of this + "Small Print!" statement. + +[3] Pay a trademark license fee to the Project of 20% of the + net profits you derive calculated using the method you + already use to calculate your applicable taxes. If you + don't derive profits, no royalty is due. Royalties are + payable to "Project Gutenberg Association/Carnegie-Mellon + University" within the 60 days following each + date you prepare (or were legally required to prepare) + your annual (or equivalent periodic) tax return. + +WHAT IF YOU *WANT* TO SEND MONEY EVEN IF YOU DON'T HAVE TO? +The Project gratefully accepts contributions in money, time, +scanning machines, OCR software, public domain etexts, royalty +free copyright licenses, and every other sort of contribution +you can think of. Money should be paid to "Project Gutenberg +Association / Carnegie-Mellon University". + +*END*THE SMALL PRINT! FOR PUBLIC DOMAIN ETEXTS*Ver.04.29.93*END* + + + + + +This etext was prepared by David Price +ccx074@coventry.ac.uk, from the 1912 J. M. Dent edition. + + + + + +The Itinerary of Archbishop Baldwin through Wales + + + + +INTRODUCTION + + + +Gerald the Welshman - Giraldus Cambrensis - was born, probably in +1147, at Manorbier Castle in the county of Pembroke. His father was +a Norman noble, William de Barri, who took his name from the little +island of Barry off the coast of Glamorgan. His mother, Angharad, +was the daughter of Gerald de Windsor {1} by his wife, the famous +Princess Nesta, the "Helen of Wales," and the daughter of Rhys ap +Tewdwr Mawr, the last independent Prince of South Wales. + +Gerald was therefore born to romance and adventure. He was reared +in the traditions of the House of Dinevor. He heard the brilliant +and pitiful stories of Rhys ap Tewdwr, who, after having lost and +won South Wales, died on the stricken field fighting against the +Normans, an old man of over fourscore years; and of his gallant son, +Prince Rhys, who, after wrenching his patrimony from the invaders, +died of a broken heart a few months after his wife, the Princess +Gwenllian, had fallen in a skirmish at Kidwelly. No doubt he heard, +though he makes but sparing allusion to them, of the loves and +adventures of his grandmother, the Princess Nesta, the daughter and +sister of a prince, the wife of an adventurer, the concubine of a +king, and the paramour of every daring lover - a Welshwoman whose +passions embroiled all Wales, and England too, in war, and the +mother of heroes - Fitz-Geralds, Fitz-Stephens, and Fitz-Henries, +and others - who, regardless of their mother's eccentricity in the +choice of their fathers, united like brothers in the most +adventurous undertaking of that age, the Conquest of Ireland. + +Though his mother was half Saxon and his father probably fully +Norman, Gerald, with a true instinct, described himself as a +"Welshman." His frank vanity, so naive as to be void of offence, +his easy acceptance of everything which Providence had bestowed on +him, his incorrigible belief that all the world took as much +interest in himself and all that appealed to him as he did himself, +the readiness with which he adapted himself to all sorts of men and +of circumstances, his credulity in matters of faith and his shrewd +common sense in things of the world, his wit and lively fancy, his +eloquence of tongue and pen, his acute rather than accurate +observation, his scholarship elegant rather than profound, are all +characteristic of a certain lovable type of South Walian. He was +not blind to the defects of his countrymen any more than to others +of his contemporaries, but the Welsh he chastised as one who loved +them. His praise followed ever close upon the heels of his +criticism. There was none of the rancour in his references to Wales +which defaces his account of contemporary Ireland. He was +acquainted with Welsh, though he does not seem to have preached it, +and another archdeacon acted as the interpreter of Archbishop +Baldwin's Crusade sermon in Anglesea. But he could appreciate the +charm of the Cynghanedd, the alliterative assonance which is still +the most distinctive feature of Welsh poetry. He cannot conceal his +sympathy with the imperishable determination of his countrymen to +keep alive the language which is their differentia among the nations +of the world. It is manifest in the story which he relates at the +end of his "Description of Wales." Henry II. asked an old Welshman +of Pencader in Carmarthenshire if the Welsh could resist his might. +"This nation, O King," was the reply, "may often be weakened and in +great part destroyed by the power of yourself and of others, but +many a time, as it deserves, it will rise triumphant. But never +will it be destroyed by the wrath of man, unless the wrath of God be +added. Nor do I think that any other nation than this of Wales, or +any other tongue, whatever may hereafter come to pass, shall on the +day of the great reckoning before the Most High Judge, answer for +this corner of the earth." Prone to discuss with his "Britannic +frankness" the faults of his countrymen, he cannot bear that any one +else should do so. In the "Description of Wales" he breaks off in +the middle of a most unflattering passage concerning the character +of the Welsh people to lecture Gildas for having abused his own +countrymen. In the preface to his "Instruction of Princes," he +makes a bitter reference to the prejudice of the English Court +against everything Welsh - "Can any good thing come from Wales?" +His fierce Welshmanship is perhaps responsible for the unsympathetic +treatment which he has usually received at the hands of English +historians. Even to one of the writers of Dr. Traill's "Social +England," Gerald was little more than "a strong and passionate +Welshman." + +Sometimes it was his pleasure to pose as a citizen of the world. He +loved Paris, the centre of learning, where he studied as a youth, +and where he lectured in his early manhood. He paid four long +visits to Rome. He was Court chaplain to Henry II. He accompanied +the king on his expeditions to France, and Prince John to Ireland. +He retired, when old age grew upon him, to the scholarly seclusion +of Lincoln, far from his native land. He was the friend and +companion of princes and kings, of scholars and prelates everywhere +in England, in France, and in Italy. And yet there was no place in +the world so dear to him as Manorbier. Who can read his vivid +description of the old castle by the sea - its ramparts blown upon +by the winds that swept over the Irish Sea, its fishponds, its +garden, and its lofty nut trees - without feeling that here, after +all, was the home of Gerald de Barri? "As Demetia," he said in his +"Itinerary," "with its seven cantreds is the fairest of all the +lands of Wales, as Pembroke is the fairest part of Demetia, and this +spot the fairest of Pembroke, it follows that Manorbier is the +sweetest spot in Wales." He has left us a charming account of his +boyhood, playing with his brothers on the sands, they building +castles and he cathedrals, he earning the title of "boy bishop" by +preaching while they engaged in boyish sport. On his last recorded +visit to Wales, a broken man, hunted like a criminal by the king, +and deserted by the ingrate canons of St. David's, he retired for a +brief respite from strife to the sweet peace of Manorbier. It is +not known where he died, but it is permissible to hope that he +breathed his last in the old home which he never forgot or ceased to +love. + +He mentions that the Welsh loved high descent and carried their +pedigree about with them. In this respect also Gerald was Welsh to +the core. He is never more pleased than when he alludes to his +relationship with the Princes of Wales, or the Geraldines, or +Cadwallon ap Madoc of Powis. He hints, not obscurely, that the real +reason why he was passed over for the Bishopric of St. David's in +1186 was that Henry II. feared his natio et cognatio, his nation and +his family. He becomes almost dithyrambic in extolling the deeds of +his kinsmen in Ireland. "Who are they who penetrated into the +fastnesses of the enemy? The Geraldines. Who are they who hold the +country in submission? The Geraldines. Who are they whom the +foemen dread? The Geraldines. Who are they whom envy would +disparage? The Geraldines. Yet fight on, my gallant kinsmen, + + +" Felices facti si quid mea carmina possuit." + + +Gerald was satisfied, not only with his birthplace and lineage, but +with everything that was his. He makes complacent references to his +good looks, which he had inherited from Princess Nesta. "Is it +possible so fair a youth can die?" asked Bishop, afterwards +Archbishop, Baldwin, when he saw him in his student days. {2} Even +in his letters to Pope Innocent he could not refrain from repeating +a compliment paid to him on his good looks by Matilda of St. Valery, +the wife of his neighbour at Brecon, William de Braose. He praises +his own unparalleled generosity in entertaining the poor, the +doctors, and the townsfolk of Oxford to banquets on three successive +days when he read his "Topography of Ireland" before that +university. As for his learning he records that when his tutors at +Paris wished to point out a model scholar they mentioned Giraldus +Cambrensis. He is confident that though his works, being all +written in Latin, have not attained any great contemporary +popularity, they will make his name and fame secure for ever. The +most precious gift he could give to Pope Innocent III., when he was +anxious to win his favour, was six volumes of his own works; and +when good old Archbishop Baldwin came to preach the Crusade in +Wales, Gerald could think of no better present to help beguile the +tedium of the journey than his own "Topography of Ireland." He is +equally pleased with his own eloquence. When the archbishop had +preached, with no effect, for an hour, and exclaimed what a +hardhearted people it was, Gerald moved them almost instantly to +tears. He records also that John Spang, the Lord Rhys's fool, said +to his master at Cardigan, after Gerald had been preaching the +Crusade, "You owe a great debt, O Rhys, to your kinsman, the +archdeacon, who has taken a hundred or so of your men to serve the +Lord; for if he had only spoken in Welsh, you would not have had a +soul left." His works are full of appreciations of Gerald's +reforming zeal, his administrative energy, his unostentatious and +scholarly life. + +Professor Freeman in his "Norman Conquest" described Gerald as "the +father of comparative philology," and in the preface to his edition +of the last volume of Gerald's works in the Rolls Series, he calls +him "one of the most learned men of a learned age," "the universal +scholar." His range of subjects is indeed marvellous even for an +age when to be a "universal scholar" was not so hopeless of +attainment as it has since become. Professor Brewer, his earliest +editor in the Rolls Series, is struck by the same characteristic. +"Geography, history, ethics, divinity, canon law, biography, natural +history, epistolary correspondence, and poetry employed his pen by +turns, and in all these departments of literature he has left +memorials of his ability." Without being Ciceronian, his Latin was +far better than that of his contemporaries. He was steeped in the +classics, and he had, as Professor Freeman remarks, "mastered more +languages than most men of his time, and had looked at them with an +approach to a scientific view which still fewer men of his time +shared with him." He quotes Welsh, English, Irish, French, German, +Hebrew, Latin, and Greek, and with four or five of these languages +at least he had an intimate, scholarly acquaintance. His judgment +of men and things may not always have been sound, but he was a +shrewd observer of contemporary events. "The cleverest critic of +the life of his time" is the verdict of Mr. Reginald Poole. {3} He +changed his opinions often: he was never ashamed of being +inconsistent. In early life he was, perhaps naturally, an admirer +of the Angevin dynasty; he lived to draw the most terrible picture +extant of their lives and characters. During his lifetime he never +ceased to inveigh against Archbishop Hubert Walter; after his death +he repented and recanted. His invective was sometimes coarse, and +his abuse was always virulent. He was not over-scrupulous in his +methods of controversy; but no one can rise from a reading of his +works without a feeling of liking for the vivacious, cultured, +impulsive, humorous, irrepressible Welshman. Certainly no Welshman +can regard the man who wrote so lovingly of his native land, and who +championed her cause so valiantly, except with real gratitude and +affection. + +But though it is as a writer of books that Gerald has become famous, +he was a man of action, who would have left, had Fate been kinder, +an enduring mark on the history of his own time, and would certainly +have changed the whole current of Welsh religious life. As a +descendant of the Welsh princes, he took himself seriously as a +Welsh patriot. Destined almost from his cradle, both by the bent of +his mind and the inclination of his father, to don "the habit of +religion," he could not join Prince Rhys or Prince Llewelyn in their +struggle for the political independence of Wales. His ambition was +to become Bishop of St. David's, and then to restore the Welsh +Church to her old position of independence of the metropolitan +authority of Canterbury. He detested the practice of promoting +Normans to Welsh sees, and of excluding Welshmen from high positions +in their own country. "Because I am a Welshman, am I to be debarred +from all preferment in Wales?" he indignantly writes to the Pope. +Circumstances at first seemed to favour his ambition. His uncle, +David Fitz-Gerald, sat in the seat of St. David's. When the young +scholar returned from Paris in 1172, he found the path of promotion +easy. After the manner of that age - which Gerald lived to denounce +- he soon became a pluralist. He held the livings of Llanwnda, +Tenby, and Angle, and afterwards the prebend of Mathry, in +Pembrokeshire, and the living of Chesterton in Oxfordshire. He was +also prebendary of Hereford, canon of St. David's, and in 1175, when +only twenty-eight years of age, he became Archdeacon of Brecon. In +the following year Bishop David died, and Gerald, together with the +other archdeacons of the diocese, was nominated by the chapter for +the king's choice. But the chapter had been premature, urged, no +doubt, by the impetuous young Archdeacon of Brecon. They had not +waited for the king's consent to the nomination. The king saw that +his settled policy in Wales would be overturned if Gerald became +Bishop of St. David's. Gerald's cousin, the Lord Rhys, had been +appointed the king's justiciar in South Wales. The power of the +Lord Marches was to be kept in check by a quasi-alliance between the +Welsh prince and his over-lord. The election of Gerald to the +greatest see in Wales would upset the balance of power. David Fitz- +Gerald, good easy man (vir sua sorte contentus is Gerald's +description of him), the king could tolerate, but he could not +contemplate without uneasiness the combination of spiritual and +political power in South Wales in the hands of two able, ambitious, +and energetic kinsmen, such as he knew Gerald and the Lord Rhys to +be. Gerald had made no secret of his admiration for the martyred +St. Thomas e Becket. He fashioned himself upon him as Becket did on +Anselm. The part which Becket played in England he would like to +play in Wales. But the sovereign who had destroyed Becket was not +to be frightened by the canons of St. David's and the Archdeacon of +Brecon. He summoned the chapter to Westminster, and compelled them +in his presence to elect Peter de Leia, the Prior of Wenlock, who +erected for himself an imperishable monument in the noble cathedral +which looks as if it had sprung up from the rocks which guard the +city of Dewi Sant from the inrush of the western sea. + +It is needless to recount the many activities in which Gerald +engaged during the next twenty-two years. They have been recounted +with humorous and affectionate appreciation by Dr. Henry Owen in his +monograph on "Gerald the Welshman," a little masterpiece of +biography which deserves to be better known. {4} In 1183 Gerald was +employed by the astute king to settle terms between him and the +rebellious Lord Rhys. Nominally as a reward for his successful +diplomacy, but probably in order to keep so dangerous a character +away from the turbulent land of Wales, Gerald was in the following +year made a Court chaplain. In 1185 he was commissioned by the king +to accompany Prince John, then a lad of eighteen, who had lately +been created "Lord of Ireland," to the city of Dublin. There he +abode for two years, collecting materials for his two first books, +the "Topography" and the "Conquest of Ireland." In 1188 he +accompanied Archbishop Baldwin through Wales to preach the Third +Crusade - not the first or the last inconsistency of which the +champion of the independence of the Welsh Church was guilty. His +"Itinerary through Wales" is the record of the expedition. King +Richard offered him the Bishopric of Bangor, and John, in his +brother's absence, offered him that of Llandaff. But his heart was +set on St. David's. In 1198 his great chance came to him. At last, +after twenty-two years of misrule, Peter de Leia was dead, and +Gerald seemed certain of attaining his heart's desire. Once again +the chapter nominated Gerald; once more the royal authority was +exerted, this time by Archbishop Hubert, the justiciar in the king's +absence, to defeat the ambitious Welshman. The chapter decided to +send a deputation to King Richard in Normandy. The deputation +arrived at Chinon to find Coeur-de-Lion dead; but John was anxious +to make friends everywhere, in order to secure himself on his +uncertain throne. He received the deputation graciously, he spoke +in praise of Gerald, and he agreed to accept the nomination. But +after his return to England John changed his mind. He found that no +danger threatened him in his island kingdom, and he saw the wisdom +of the justiciar's policy. Gerald hurried to see him, but John +point blank refused publicly to ratify his consent to the nomination +which he had already given in private. Then commenced the historic +fight for St. David's which, in view of the still active "Church +question" in Wales, is even now invested with a living interest and +significance. Gerald contended that the Welsh Church was +independent of Canterbury, and that it was only recently, since the +Norman Conquest, that she had been deprived of her freedom. His +opponents relied on political, rather than historical, +considerations to defeat this bold claim. King Henry, when a +deputation from the chapter in 1175 appeared before the great +council in London and had urged the metropolitan claims of St. +David's upon the Cardinal Legate, exclaimed that he had no intention +of giving this head to rebellion in Wales. Archbishop Hubert, more +of a statesman than an ecclesiastic, based his opposition on similar +grounds. He explained his reasons bluntly to the Pope. "Unless the +barbarity of this fierce and lawless people can be restrained by +ecclesiastical censures through the see of Canterbury, to which +province they are subject by law, they will be for ever rising in +arms against the king, to the disquiet of the whole realm of +England." Gerald's answer to this was complete, except from the +point of view of political expediency. "What can be more unjust +than that this people of ancient faith, because they answer force by +force in defence of their lives, their lands, and their liberties, +should be forthwith separated from the body corporate of +Christendom, and delivered over to Satan?" + +The story of the long fight between Gerald on the one hand and the +whole forces of secular and ecclesiastical authority on the other +cannot be told here. Three times did he visit Rome to prosecute his +appeal - alone against the world. He had to journey through +districts disturbed by wars, infested with the king's men or the +king's enemies, all of whom regarded Gerald with hostility. He was +taken and thrown into prison as King John's subject in one town, he +was detained by importunate creditors in another, and at Rome he was +betrayed by a countryman whom he had befriended. He himself has +told us + + +Of the most disastrous chances +Of moving accidents by flood and field, + + +which made a journey from St. David's to Rome a more perilous +adventure in those unquiet days than an expedition "through darkest +Africa" is in ours. At last the very Chapter of St. David's, for +whose ancient rights he was contending, basely deserted him. "The +laity of Wales stood by me," so he wrote in later days, "but of the +clergy whose battle I was fighting scarce one." Pope Innocent III. +was far too wary a politician to favour the claims of a small and +distracted nation, already half-subjugated, against the king of a +rich and powerful country. He flattered our poor Gerald, he +delighted in his company, he accepted, and perhaps even read, his +books. But in the end, after five years' incessant fighting, the +decision went against him, and the English king's nominee has ever +since sat on the throne of St. David's. "Many and great wars," said +Gwenwynwyn, the Prince of Powis, "have we Welshmen waged with +England, but none so great and fierce as his who fought the king and +the archbishop, and withstood the might of the whole clergy and +people of England, for the honour of Wales." + +Short was the memory and scant the gratitude of his countrymen. +When in 1214 another vacancy occurred at a time when King John was +at variance with his barons and his prelates, the Chapter of St. +David's nominated, not Gerald, their old champion, but Iorwerth, the +Abbot of Talley, from whose reforming zeal they had nothing to fear. +This last prick of Fortune's sword pierced Gerald to the quick. He +had for years been gradually withdrawing from an active life. He +had resigned his archdeaconry and his prebend stall, he had made a +fourth pilgrimage, this time for his soul's sake, to Rome, he had +retired to a quiet pursuit of letters probably at Lincoln, and +henceforward, till his death about the year 1223, he devoted himself +to revising and embellishing his old works, and completing his +literary labours. By his fight for St. David's he had endeared +himself to the laity of his country for all time. The saying of +Llewelyn the Great was prophetic. "So long as Wales shall stand by +the writings of the chroniclers and by the songs of the bards shall +his noble deed be praised throughout all time." The prophecy has +not yet been verified. Welsh chroniclers have made but scanty +references to Gerald; no bard has ever yet sung an Awdl or a +Pryddest in honour of him who fought for the "honour of Wales." His +countrymen have forgotten Gerald the Welshman. It has been left to +Sir Richard Colt Hoare, Foster, Professor Brewer, Dimmock, and +Professor Freeman to edit his works. Only two of his countrymen +have attempted to rescue one of the greatest of Welshmen from an +undeserved oblivion. In 1585, when the Renaissance of Letters had +begun to rouse the dormant powers of the Cymry, Dr. David Powel +edited in Latin a garbled version of the "Itinerary" and +"Description of Wales," and gave a short and inaccurate account of +Gerald's life. In 1889 Dr. Henry Owen published, "at his own proper +charges," the first adequate account by a Welshman of the life and +labours of Giraldus Cambrensis. When his monument is erected in the +cathedral which was built by his hated rival, the epitaph which he +composed for himself may well be inscribed upon it - + + +Cambria Giraldus genuit, sic Cambria mentem +Erudiit, cineres cui lapis iste tegit. + + +And by that time perhaps some competent scholar will have translated +some at least of Gerald's works into the language best understood by +the people of Wales. + +It would be impossible to exaggerate the enormous services which +three great Welshmen of the twelfth century rendered to England and +to the world - such services as we may securely hope will be +emulated by Welshmen of the next generation, now that we have lived +to witness what Mr. Theodore Watts-Dunton has called "the great +recrudescence of Cymric energy." {5} The romantic literature of +England owes its origin to Geoffrey of Monmouth; {6} Sir Galahad, +the stainless knight, the mirror of Christian chivalry, as well as +the nobler portions of the Arthurian romance, were the creation of +Walter Map, the friend and "gossip" of Gerald; {7} and John Richard +Green has truly called Gerald himself "the father of popular +literature." {8} He began to write when he was only twenty; he +continued to write till he was past the allotted span of life. He +is the most "modern" as well as the most voluminous of all the +mediaeval writers. Of all English writers, Miss Kate Norgate {9} +has perhaps most justly estimated the real place of Gerald in +English letters. "Gerald's wide range of subjects," she says, "is +only less remarkable than the ease and freedom with which he treats +them. Whatever he touches - history, archaeology, geography, +natural science, politics, the social life and thought of the day, +the physical peculiarities of Ireland and the manners and customs of +its people, the picturesque scenery and traditions of his own native +land, the scandals of the court and the cloister, the petty struggle +for the primacy of Wales, and the great tragedy of the fall of the +Angevin Empire - is all alike dealt with in the bold, dashing, +offhand style of a modern newspaper or magazine article. His first +important work, the 'Topography of Ireland,' is, with due allowance +for the difference between the tastes of the twelfth century and +those of the nineteenth, just such a series of sketches as a special +correspondent in our own day might send from some newly-colonised +island in the Pacific to satisfy or whet the curiosity of his +readers at home." The description aptly applies to all that Gerald +wrote. If not a historian, he was at least a great journalist. His +descriptions of Ireland have been subjected to much hostile +criticism from the day they were written to our own times. They +were assailed at the time, as Gerald himself tells us, for their +unconventionality, for their departure from established custom, for +the freedom and colloquialism of their style, for the audacity of +their stories, and for the writer's daring in venturing to treat the +manners and customs of a barbarous country as worthy the attention +of the learned and the labours of the historian. Irish scholars, +from the days of Dr. John Lynch, who published his "Cambrensis +Eversus" in 1622, have unanimously denounced the work of the +sensational journalist, born out of due time. His Irish books are +confessedly partisan; the "Conquest of Ireland" was expressly +designed as an eulogy of "the men of St. David's," the writer's own +kinsmen. But in spite of partisanship and prejudice, they must be +regarded as a serious and valuable addition to our knowledge of the +state of Ireland at the latter end of the twelfth century. Indeed, +Professor Brewer does not hesitate to say that "to his industry we +are exclusively indebted for all that is known of the state of +Ireland during the whole of the Middle Ages," and as to the +"Topography," Gerald "must take rank with the first who descried the +value and in some respects the limits of descriptive geography." + +When he came to deal with the affairs of state on a larger stage, +his methods were still that of the modern journalist. He was always +an impressionist, a writer of personal sketches. His character +sketches of the Plantagenet princes - of King Henry with his large +round head and fat round belly, his fierce eyes, his tigerish +temper, his learning, his licentiousness, his duplicity, and of +Eleanor of Aquitaine, his vixenish and revengeful wife, the +murderess of "Fair Rosamond" (who must have been known to Gerald, +being the daughter of Walter of Clifford-on-the-Wye), and of the +fierce brood that they reared - are of extraordinary interest. His +impressions of the men and events of his time, his fund of anecdotes +and bon mots, his references to trivial matters, which more +dignified writers would never deign to mention, his sprightly and +sometimes malicious gossip, invest his period with a reality which +the greatest of fiction-writers has failed to rival. Gerald lived +in the days of chivalry, days which have been crowned with a halo of +deathless romance by the author of "Ivanhoe" and the "Talisman." He +knew and was intimate with all the great actors of the time. He had +lived in the Paris of St. Louis and Philip Augustus, and was never +tired of exalting the House of Capet over the tyrannical and +bloodthirsty House of Anjou. He had no love of England, for her +Plantagenet kings or her Saxon serfs. During the French invasion in +the time of King John his sympathies were openly with the Dauphin as +against the "brood of vipers," who were equally alien to English +soil. For the Saxon, indeed, he felt the twofold hatred of Welshman +and Norman. One of his opponents is denounced to the Pope as an +"untriwe Sax," and the Saxons are described as the slaves of the +Normans, the mere hewers of wood and drawers of water for their +conquerors. He met Innocent III., the greatest of Popes, in +familiar converse, he jested and gossiped with him in slippered +ease, he made him laugh at his endless stories of the glory of +Wales, the iniquities of the Angevins, and the bad Latin of +Archbishop Walter. He knew Richard Coeur-de-Lion, the flower of +chivalry, and saw him as he was and "not through a glass darkly." +He knew John, the cleverest and basest of his house. He knew and +loved Stephen Langton, the precursor of a long line of statesmen who +have made English liberty broad - based upon the people's will. He +was a friend of St. Hugh of Lincoln, the sweetest and purest spirit +in the Anglican Church of the Middle Ages, the one man who could +disarm the wrath of the fierce king with a smile; and he was the +friend and patron of Robert Grosstete, afterwards the great Bishop +of Lincoln. He lived much in company with Ranulph de Glanville, the +first English jurist, and he has "Boswellised" some of his +conversations with him. He was intimate with Archbishop Baldwin, +the saintly prelate who laid down his life in the Third Crusade on +the burning plains of Palestine, heart-broken at the unbridled +wickedness of the soldiers of the Cross. He was the near kinsman +and confidant of the Cambro-Normans, who, landing in Leinster in +1165, effected what may be described as the first conquest of +Ireland. There was scarcely a man of note in his day whom he had +not seen and conversed with, or of whom he does not relate some +piquant story. He had travelled much, and had observed closely. +Probably the most valuable of all his works, from the strictly +historical point of view, are the "Itinerary" and "Description of +Wales," which are reprinted in the present volume. {10} Here he is +impartial in his evidence, and judicial in his decisions. If he +errs at all, it is not through racial prejudice. "I am sprung," he +once told the Pope in a letter, "from the princes of Wales and from +the barons of the Marches, and when I see injustice in either race, +I hate it." + +The text is that of Sir Richard Colt Hoare, who published an English +translation, chiefly from the texts of Camden and Wharton, in 1806. +The valuable historical notes have been curtailed, as being too +elaborate for such a volume as this, and a few notes have been added +by the present editor. These will be found within brackets. +Hoare's translation, and also translations (edited by Mr. Foster) of +the Irish books have been published in Bohn's Antiquarian Library. + +The first of the seven volumes of the Latin text of Gerald, +published in the Rolls Series, appeared in 1861. The first four +volumes were edited by Professor Brewer; the next two by Mr. +Dimmock; and the seventh by Professor Freeman. + +W. LLEWELYN WILLIAMS. January 1908. + + +The following is a list of the more important of the works of +Gerald:- + +Topographia Hibernica, Expugnatio Hibernica, Itinerarium Kambriae, +Descriptio Kambriae, Gemma Ecclesiastica, Libellus Invectionum, De +Rebus a se Gestis, Dialogus de jure et statu Menevensis Ecclesiae, +De Instructione Principum, De Legendis Sanctorum, Symbolum +Electorum. + + + +FIRST PREFACE - TO STEPHEN LANGTON, ARCHBISHOP OF CANTERBURY + + + +As the times are affected by the changes of circumstances, so are +the minds of men influenced by different manners and customs. The +satirist [Persius] exclaims, + + +"Mille hominum species et mentis discolor usus; +Velle suum cuique est, nec voto vivitur uno." + +"Nature is ever various in her name; +Each has a different will, and few the same." + + +The comic poet also says, "Quot capita tot sententiae, suus cuique +mos est." "As many men, so many minds, each has his way." Young +soldiers exult in war, and pleaders delight in the gown; others +aspire after riches, and think them the supreme good. Some approve +Galen, some Justinian. Those who are desirous of honours follow the +court, and from their ambitious pursuits meet with more +mortification than satisfaction. Some, indeed, but very few, take +pleasure in the liberal arts, amongst whom we cannot but admire +logicians, who, when they have made only a trifling progress, are as +much enchanted with the images of Dialectics, as if they were +listening to the songs of the Syrens. + +But among so many species of men, where are to be found divine +poets? Where the noble assertors of morals? Where the masters of +the Latin tongue? Who in the present times displays lettered +eloquence, either in history or poetry? Who, I say, in our own age, +either builds a system of ethics, or consigns illustrious actions to +immortality? Literary fame, which used to be placed in the highest +rank, is now, because of the depravity of the times, tending to ruin +and degraded to the lowest, so that persons attached to study are at +present not only not imitated nor venerated, but even detested. +"Happy indeed would be the arts," observes Fabius, "if artists alone +judged of the arts;" but, as Sydonius says, "it is a fixed principle +in the human mind, that they who are ignorant of the arts despise +the artist." + +But to revert to our subject. Which, I ask, have rendered more +service to the world, the arms of Marius or the verses of Virgil? +The sword of Marius has rusted, while the fame of him who wrote the +AEneid is immortal; and although in his time letters were honoured +by lettered persons, yet from his own pen we find, + + +" - tantum +Carmina nostra valent tela inter Martia, quantum +Chaonias dicunt, aquila veniente, columbas." + + +Who would hesitate in deciding which are more profitable, the works +of St. Jerom, or the riches of Croesus? but where now shine the gold +and silver of Croesus? whilst the world is instructed by the example +and enlightened by the learning of the poor coenobite. Yet even he, +through envy, suffered stripes and contumely at Rome, although his +character was so illustrious; and at length being driven beyond the +seas, found a refuge for his studies in the solitude of Bethlehem. +Thus it appears, that gold and arms may support us in this life, but +avail nothing after death; and that letters through envy profit +nothing in this world, but, like a testament, acquire an immortal +value from the seal of death. + +According to the poet, + + +"Pascitur in vivis livor, post fata quiescit; +Cum suus ex merito quemque tuetur honor." + + +And also + + +"Denique si quis adhuc praetendit nubila, livor +Occidet, et meriti post me referentur honores." + + +Those who by artifice endeavour to acquire or preserve the +reputation of abilities or ingenuity, while they abound in the words +of others, have little cause to boast of their own inventions. For +the composers of that polished language, in which such various cases +as occur in the great body of law are treated with such an +appropriate elegance of style, must ever stand forward in the first +ranks of praise. I should indeed have said, that the authors of +refined language, not the hearers only, the inventors, not the +reciters, are most worthy of commendation. You will find, however, +that the practices of the court and of the schools are extremely +similar; as well in the subtleties they employ to lead you forward, +as in the steadiness with which they generally maintain their own +positions. Yet it is certain that the knowledge of logic (the +acumen, if I may so express it, of all other sciences as well as +arts) is very useful, when restricted within proper bounds; whilst +the court (i.e. courtly language), excepting to sycophants or +ambitious men, is by no means necessary. For if you are successful +at court, ambition never wholly quits its hold till satiated, and +allures and draws you still closer; but if your labour is thrown +away, you still continue the pursuit, and, together with your +substance, lose your time, the greatest and most irretrievable of +all losses. There is likewise some resemblance between the court +and the game of dice, as the poet observes:- + + +"Sic ne perdiderit non cessat perdere lusor, +Dum revocat cupidas alea blanda manus;" + + +which, by substituting the word CURIA for ALEA, may be applied to +the court. This further proof of their resemblance may be added; +that as the chances of the dice and court are not productive of any +real delight, so they are equally distributed to the worthy and the +unworthy. + +Since, therefore, among so many species of men, each follows his own +inclination, and each is actuated by different desires, a regard for +posterity has induced me to choose the study of composition; and, as +this life is temporary and mutable, it is grateful to live in the +memory of future ages, and to be immortalized by fame; for to toil +after that which produces envy in life, but glory after death, is a +sure indication of an elevated mind. Poets and authors indeed +aspire after immortality, but do not reject any present advantages +that may offer. + +I formerly completed with vain and fruitless labour the Topography +of Ireland for its companion, the king Henry the Second, and +Vaticinal History, for Richard of Poitiou, his son, and, I wish I +were not compelled to add, his successor in vice; princes little +skilled in letters, and much engaged in business. To you, +illustrious Stephen, archbishop of Canterbury, equally commendable +for your learning and religion, I now dedicate the account of our +meritorious journey through the rugged provinces of Cambria, written +in a scholastic style, and divided into two parts. For as virtue +loves itself, and detests what is contrary to it, so I hope you will +consider whatever I may have written in commendation of your late +venerable and eminent predecessor, with no less affection than if it +related to yourself. To you also, when completed, I destine my +treatise on the Instruction of a Prince, if, amidst your religious +and worldly occupations, you can find leisure for the perusal of it. +For I purpose to submit these and other fruits of my diligence to be +tasted by you at your discretion, each in its proper order; hoping +that, if my larger undertakings do not excite your interest, my +smaller works may at least merit your approbation, conciliate your +favour, and call forth my gratitude towards you; who, unmindful of +worldly affections, do not partially distribute your bounties to +your family and friends, but to letters and merit; you, who, in the +midst of such great and unceasing contests between the crown and the +priesthood, stand forth almost singly the firm and faithful friend +of the British church; you, who, almost the only one duly elected, +fulfil the scriptural designation of the episcopal character. It is +not, however, by bearing a cap, by placing a cushion, by shielding +off the rain, or by wiping the dust, even if there should be none, +in the midst of a herd of flatterers, that I attempt to conciliate +your favour, but by my writings. To you, therefore, rare, noble, +and illustrious man, on whom nature and art have showered down +whatever becomes your supereminent situation, I dedicate my works; +but if I fail in this mode of conciliating your favour, and if your +prayers and avocations should not allow you sufficient time to read +them, I shall consider the honour of letters as vanished, and in +hope of its revival I shall inscribe my writings to posterity. + + + +SECOND PREFACE - TO THE SAME PRELATE + + + +Since those things, which are known to have been done through a +laudable devotion, are not unworthily extolled with due praises; and +since the mind, when relaxed, loses its energy, and the torpor of +sloth enervates the understanding, as iron acquires rust for want of +use, and stagnant waters become foul; lest my pen should be injured +by the rust of idleness, I have thought good to commit to writing +the devout visitation which Baldwin, archbishop of Canterbury, made +throughout Wales; and to hand down, as it were in a mirror, through +you, O illustrious Stephen, to posterity, the difficult places +through which we passed, the names of springs and torrents, the +witty sayings, the toils and incidents of the journey, the memorable +events of ancient and modern times, and the natural history and +description of the country; lest my study should perish through +idleness, or the praise of these things be lost by silence. + + + + +THE ITINERARY THROUGH WALES - BOOK I + + + + +CHAPTER I + + + +Journey through Hereford and Radnor + + +In the year 1188 from the incarnation of our Lord, Urban the Third +{11} being the head of the apostolic see; Frederick, emperor of +Germany and king of the Romans; Isaac, emperor of Constantinople; +Philip, the son of Louis, reigning in France; Henry the Second in +England; William in Sicily; Bela in Hungary; and Guy in Palestine: +in that very year, when Saladin, prince of the Egyptians and +Damascenes, by a signal victory gained possession of the kingdom of +Jerusalem; Baldwin, archbishop of Canterbury, a venerable man, +distinguished for his learning and sanctity, journeying from England +for the service of the holy cross, entered Wales near the borders of +Herefordshire. + +The archbishop proceeded to Radnor, {12} on Ash Wednesday (Caput +Jejunii), accompanied by Ranulph de Glanville, privy counsellor and +justiciary of the whole kingdom, and there met Rhys, {13} son of +Gruffydd, prince of South Wales, and many other noble personages of +those parts; where a sermon being preached by the archbishop, upon +the subject of the Crusades, and explained to the Welsh by an +interpreter, the author of this Itinerary, impelled by the urgent +importunity and promises of the king, and the persuasions of the +archbishop and the justiciary, arose the first, and falling down at +the feet of the holy man, devoutly took the sign of the cross. His +example was instantly followed by Peter, bishop of St. David's, {14} +a monk of the abbey of Cluny, and then by Eineon, son of Eineon +Clyd, {15} prince of Elvenia, and many other persons. Eineon rising +up, said to Rhys, whose daughter he had married, "My father and +lord! with your permission I hasten to revenge the injury offered to +the great father of all." Rhys himself was so fully determined upon +the holy peregrination, as soon as the archbishop should enter his +territories on his return, that for nearly fifteen days he was +employed with great solicitude in making the necessary preparations +for so distant a journey; till his wife, and, according to the +common vicious licence of the country, his relation in the fourth +degree, Guendolena, (Gwenllian), daughter of Madoc, prince of Powys, +by female artifices diverted him wholly from his noble purpose; +since, as Solomon says, "A man's heart deviseth his way, but the +Lord directeth his steps." As Rhys before his departure was +conversing with his friends concerning the things he had heard, a +distinguished young man of his family, by name Gruffydd, and who +afterwards took the cross, is said thus to have answered: "What man +of spirit can refuse to undertake this journey, since, amongst all +imaginable inconveniences, nothing worse can happen to any one than +to return." + +On the arrival of Rhys in his own territory, certain canons of Saint +David's, through a zeal for their church, having previously secured +the interest of some of the prince's courtiers, waited on Rhys, and +endeavoured by every possible suggestion to induce him not to permit +the archbishop to proceed into the interior parts of Wales, and +particularly to the metropolitan see of Saint David's (a thing +hitherto unheard of), at the same time asserting that if he should +continue his intended journey, the church would in future experience +great prejudice, and with difficulty would recover its ancient +dignity and honour. Although these pleas were most strenuously +urged, the natural kindness and civility of the prince would not +suffer them to prevail, lest by prohibiting the archbishop's +progress, he might appear to wound his feelings. + +Early on the following morning, after the celebration of mass, and +the return of Ranulph de Glanville to England, we came to Cruker +Castle, {16} two miles distant from Radnor, where a strong and +valiant youth named Hector, conversing with the archbishop about +taking the cross, said, "If I had the means of getting provisions +for one day, and of keeping fast on the next, I would comply with +your advice;" on the following day, however, he took the cross. The +same evening, Malgo, son of Cadwallon, prince of Melenia, after a +short but efficacious exhortation from the archbishop, and not +without the tears and lamentations of his friends, was marked with +the sign of the cross. + +But here it is proper to mention what happened during the reign of +king Henry the First to the lord of the castle of Radnor, in the +adjoining territory of Builth, {17} who had entered the church of +Saint Avan (which is called in the British language Llan Avan), {18} +and, without sufficient caution or reverence, had passed the night +there with his hounds. Arising early in the morning, according to +the custom of hunters, he found his hounds mad, and himself struck +blind. After a long, dark, and tedious existence, he was conveyed +to Jerusalem, happily taking care that his inward sight should not +in a similar manner be extinguished; and there being accoutred, and +led to the field of battle on horseback, he made a spirited attack +upon the enemies of the faith, and, being mortally wounded, closed +his life with honour. + +Another circumstance which happened in these our days, in the +province of Warthrenion, {19} distant from hence only a few +furlongs, is not unworthy of notice. Eineon, lord of that district, +and son-in-law to prince Rhys, who was much addicted to the chase, +having on a certain day forced the wild beasts from their coverts, +one of his attendants killed a hind with an arrow, as she was +springing forth from the wood, which, contrary to the nature of her +sex, was found to bear horns of twelve years' growth, and was much +fatter than a stag, in the haunches as well as in every other part. +On account of the singularity of this circumstance, the head and +horns of this strange animal were destined as a present to king +Henry the Second. This event is the more remarkable, as the man who +shot the hind suddenly lost the use of his right eye, and being at +the same time seized with a paralytic complaint, remained in a weak +and impotent state until the time of his death. + +In this same province of Warthrenion, and in the church of Saint +Germanus, {20} there is a staff of Saint Cyric, {21} covered on all +sides with gold and silver, and resembling in its upper part the +form of a cross; its efficacy has been proved in many cases, but +particularly in the removal of glandular and strumous swellings; +insomuch that all persons afflicted with these complaints, on a +devout application to the staff, with the oblation of one penny, are +restored to health. But it happened in these our days, that a +strumous patient on presenting one halfpenny to the staff, the +humour subsided only in the middle; but when the oblation was +completed by the other halfpenny, an entire cure was accomplished. +Another person also coming to the staff with the promise of a penny, +was cured; but not fulfilling his engagement on the day appointed, +he relapsed into his former disorder; in order, however, to obtain +pardon for his offence, he tripled the offering by presenting three- +pence, and thus obtained a complete cure. + +At Elevein, in the church of Glascum, {22} is a portable bell, +endowed with great virtues, called Bangu, {23} and said to have +belonged to Saint David. A certain woman secretly conveyed this +bell to her husband, who was confined in the castle of Raidergwy, +{24} near Warthrenion, (which Rhys, son of Gruffydd, had lately +built) for the purpose of his deliverance. The keepers of the +castle not only refused to liberate him for this consideration, but +seized and detained the bell; and in the same night, by divine +vengeance, the whole town, except the wall on which the bell hung, +was consumed by fire. + +The church of Luel, {25} in the neighbourhood of Brecheinoc +(Brechinia), was burned, also in our time, by the enemy, and +everything destroyed, except one small box, in which the consecrated +host was deposited. + +It came to pass also in the province of Elvenia, which is separated +from Hay by the river Wye, in the night in which king Henry I. +expired, that two pools {26} of no small extent, the one natural, +the other artificial, suddenly burst their bounds; the latter, by +its precipitate course down the declivities, emptied itself; but the +former, with its fish and contents, obtained a permanent situation +in a valley about two miles distant. In Normandy, a few days before +the death of Henry II., the fish of a certain pool near Seez, five +miles from the castle of Exme, fought during the night so furiously +with each other, both in the water and out of it, that the +neighbouring people were attracted by the noise to the spot; and so +desperate was the conflict, that scarcely a fish was found alive in +the morning; thus, by a wonderful and unheard-of prognostic, +foretelling the death of one by that of many. + +But the borders of Wales sufficiently remember and abhor the great +and enormous excesses which, from ambitious usurpation of territory, +have arisen amongst brothers and relations in the districts of +Melenyth, Elvein, and Warthrenion, situated between the Wye and the +Severn. + + + +CHAPTER II + + + +Journey through Hay and Brecheinia + + +Having crossed the river Wye, we proceeded towards Brecheinoc, and +on preaching a sermon at Hay, {27} we observed some amongst the +multitude, who were to be signed with the cross (leaving their +garments in the hands of their friends or wives, who endeavoured to +keep them back), fly for refuge to the archbishop in the castle. +Early in the morning we began our journey to Aberhodni, and the word +of the Lord being preached at Landeu, {28} we there spent the night. +The castle and chief town of the province, situated where the river +Hodni joins the river Usk, is called Aberhodni; {29} and every place +where one river falls into another is called Aber in the British +tongue. Landeu signifies the church of God. The archdeacon of that +place (Giraldus) presented to the archbishop his work on the +Topography of Ireland, which he graciously received, and either read +or heard a part of it read attentively every day during his journey; +and on his return to England completed the perusal of it. + +I have determined not to omit mentioning those occurrences worthy of +note which happened in these parts in our days. It came to pass +before that great war, in which nearly all this province was +destroyed by the sons of Jestin, {30} that the large lake, and the +river Leveni, {31} which flows from it into the Wye, opposite +Glasbyry, {32} were tinged with a deep green colour. The old people +of the country were consulted, and answered, that a short time +before the great desolation {33} caused by Howel, son of Meredyth, +the water had been coloured in a similar manner. About the same +time, a chaplain, whose name was Hugo, being engaged to officiate at +the chapel of Saint Nicholas, in the castle of Aberhodni, saw in a +dream a venerable man standing near him, and saying, "Tell thy lord +William de Braose, {34} who has the audacity to retain the property +granted to the chapel of Saint Nicholas for charitable uses, these +words: 'The public treasury takes away that which Christ does not +receive; and thou wilt then give to an impious soldier, what thou +wilt not give to a priest.'" This vision having been repeated three +times, he went to the archdeacon of the place, at Landeu, and +related to him what had happened. The archdeacon immediately knew +them to be the words of Augustine; and shewing him that part of his +writings where they were found, explained to him the case to which +they applied. He reproaches persons who held back tithes and other +ecclesiastical dues; and what he there threatens, certainly in a +short time befell this withholder of them: for in our time we have +duly and undoubtedly seen, that princes who have usurped +ecclesiastical benefices (and particularly king Henry the Second, +who laboured under this vice more than others), have profusely +squandered the treasures of the church, and given away to hired +soldiers what in justice should have been given only to priests. + +Yet something is to be said in favour of the aforesaid William de +Braose, although he greatly offended in this particular (since +nothing human is perfect, and to have knowledge of all things, and +in no point to err, is an attribute of God, not of man); for he +always placed the name of the Lord before his sentences, saying, +"Let this be done in the name of the Lord; let that be done by God's +will; if it shall please God, or if God grant leave; it shall be so +by the grace of God." We learn from Saint Paul, that everything +ought thus to be committed and referred to the will of God. On +taking leave of his brethren, he says, "I will return to you again, +if God permit;" and Saint James uses this expression, "If the Lord +will, and we live," in order to show that all things ought to be +submitted to the divine disposal. The letters also which William de +Braose, as a rich and powerful man, was accustomed to send to +different parts, were loaded, or rather honoured, with words +expressive of the divine indulgence to a degree not only tiresome to +his scribe, but even to his auditors; for as a reward to each of his +scribes for concluding his letters with the words, "by divine +assistance," he gave annually a piece of gold, in addition to their +stipend. When on a journey he saw a church or a cross, although in +the midst of conversation either with his inferiors or superiors, +from an excess of devotion, he immediately began to pray, and when +he had finished his prayers, resumed his conversation. On meeting +boys in the way, he invited them by a previous salutation to salute +him, that the blessings of these innocents, thus extorted, might be +returned to him. His wife, Matilda de Saint Valery, observed all +these things: a prudent and chaste woman; a woman placed with +propriety at the head of her house, equally attentive to the +economical disposal of her property within doors, as to the +augmentation of it without; both of whom, I hope, by their devotion +obtained temporal happiness and grace, as well as the glory of +eternity. + +It happened also that the hand of a boy, who was endeavouring to +take some young pigeons from a nest, in the church of Saint David of +Llanvaes, {35} adhered to the stone on which he leaned, through the +miraculous vengeance, perhaps, of that saint, in favour of the birds +who had taken refuge in his church; and when the boy, attended by +his friends and parents, had for three successive days and nights +offered up his prayers and supplications before the holy altar of +the church, his hand was, on the third day, liberated by the same +divine power which had so miraculously fastened it. We saw this +same boy at Newbury, in England, now advanced in years, presenting +himself before David the Second, {36} bishop of Saint David's, and +certifying to him the truth of this relation, because it had +happened in his diocese. The stone is preserved in the church to +this day among the relics, and the marks of the five fingers appear +impressed on the flint as though it were in wax. + +A small miracle happened at St. Edmundsbury to a poor woman, who +often visited the shrine of the saint, under the mask of devotion; +not with the design of giving, but of taking something away, namely, +the silver and gold offerings, which, by a curious kind of theft, +she licked up by kissing, and carried away in her mouth. But in one +of these attempts her tongue and lips adhered to the altar, when by +divine interposition she was detected, and openly disgorged the +secret theft. Many persons, both Jews and Christians, expressing +their astonishment, flocked to the place, where for the greater part +of the day she remained motionless, that no possible doubt might be +entertained of the miracle. + +In the north of England beyond the Humber, in the church of +Hovedene, {37} the concubine of the rector incautiously sat down on +the tomb of St. Osana, sister of king Osred, {38} which projected +like a wooden seat; on wishing to retire, she could not be removed, +until the people came to her assistance; her clothes were rent, her +body was laid bare, and severely afflicted with many strokes of +discipline, even till the blood flowed; nor did she regain her +liberty, until by many tears and sincere repentance she had showed +evident signs of compunction. + +What miraculous power hath not in our days been displayed by the +psalter of Quindreda, sister of St. Kenelm, {39} by whose +instigation he was killed? On the vigil of the saint, when, +according to custom, great multitudes of women resorted to the feast +at Winchelcumbe, {40} the under butler of that convent committed +fornication with one of them within the precincts of the monastery. +This same man on the following day had the audacity to carry the +psalter in the procession of the relics of the saints; and on his +return to the choir, after the solemnity, the psalter stuck to his +hands. Astonished and greatly confounded, and at length calling to +his mind his crime on the preceding day, he made confession, and +underwent penance; and being assisted by the prayers of the +brotherhood, and having shown signs of sincere contrition, he was at +length liberated from the miraculous bond. That book was held in +great veneration; because, when the body of St. Kenelm was carried +forth, and the multitude cried out, "He is the martyr of God! truly +he is the martyr of God!" Quindreda, conscious and guilty of the +murder of her brother, answered, "He is as truly the martyr of God +as it is true that my eyes be on that psalter;" for, as she was +reading the psalter, both her eyes were miraculously torn from her +head, and fell on the book, where the marks of the blood yet remain. + +Moreover I must not be silent concerning the collar (torques) which +they call St. Canauc's; {41} for it is most like to gold in weight, +nature, and colour; it is in four pieces wrought round, joined +together artificially, and clefted as it were in the middle, with a +dog's head, the teeth standing outward; it is esteemed by the +inhabitants so powerful a relic, that no man dares swear falsely +when it is laid before him: it bears the marks of some severe +blows, as if made with an iron hammer; for a certain man, as it is +said, endeavouring to break the collar for the sake of the gold, +experienced the divine vengeance, was deprived of his eyesight, and +lingered the remainder of his days in darkness. + +A similar circumstance concerning the horn of St. Patrick (not +golden indeed, but of brass [probably bronze], which lately was +brought into these parts from Ireland) excites our admiration. The +miraculous power of this relic first appeared with a terrible +example in that country, through the foolish and absurd blowing of +Bernard, a priest, as is set forth in our Topography of Ireland. +Both the laity and clergy in Ireland, Scotland, and Wales held in +such great veneration portable bells, and staves crooked at the top, +and covered with gold, silver, or brass, and similar relics of the +saints, that they were much more afraid of swearing falsely by them +than by the gospels; because, from some hidden and miraculous power +with which they are gifted, and the vengeance of the saint to whom +they are particularly pleasing, their despisers and transgressors +are severely punished. The most remarkable circumstance attending +this horn is, that whoever places the wider end of it to his ear +will hear a sweet sound and melody united, such as ariseth from a +harp gently touched. + +In our days a strange occurrence happened in the same district. A +wild sow, which by chance had been suckled by a bitch famous for her +nose, became, on growing up, so wonderfully active in the pursuit of +wild animals, that in the faculty of scent she was greatly superior +to dogs, who are assisted by natural instinct, as well as by human +art; an argument that man (as well as every other animal) contracts +the nature of the female who nurses him. Another prodigious event +came to pass nearly at the same time. A soldier, whose name was +Gilbert Hagernel, after an illness of nearly three years, and the +severe pains as of a woman in labour, in the presence of many +people, voided a calf. A portent of some new and unusual event, or +rather the punishment attendant on some atrocious crime. It appears +also from the ancient and authentic records of those parts, that +during the time St. Elwitus {42} led the life of a hermit at +Llanhamelach, {43} the mare that used to carry his provisions to him +was covered by a stag, and produced an animal of wonderful speed, +resembling a horse before and a stag behind. + +Bernard de Newmarch {44} was the first of the Normans who acquired +by conquest from the Welsh this province, which was divided into +three cantreds. {45} He married the daughter of Nest, daughter of +Gruffydd, son of Llewelyn, who, by his tyranny, for a long time had +oppressed Wales; his wife took her mother's name of Nest, which the +English transmuted into Anne; by whom he had children, one of whom, +named Mahel, a distinguished soldier, was thus unjustly deprived of +his paternal inheritance. His mother, in violation of the marriage +contract, held an adulterous intercourse with a certain knight; on +the discovery of which, the son met the knight returning in the +night from his mother, and having inflicted on him a severe corporal +punishment, and mutilated him, sent him away with great disgrace. +The mother, alarmed at the confusion which this event caused, and +agitated with grief, breathed nothing but revenge. She therefore +went to king Henry I., and declared with assertions more vindictive +than true, and corroborated by an oath, that her son Mahel was not +the son of Bernard, but of another person with whom she had been +secretly connected. Henry, on account of this oath, or rather +perjury, and swayed more by his inclination than by reason, gave +away her eldest daughter, whom she owned as the legitimate child of +Bernard, in marriage to Milo Fitz-Walter, {46} constable of +Gloucester, with the honour of Brecheinoc as a portion; and he was +afterwards created earl of Hereford by the empress Matilda, daughter +of the said king. By this wife he had five celebrated warriors; +Roger, Walter, Henry, William, and Mahel; all of whom, by divine +vengeance, or by fatal misfortunes, came to untimely ends; and yet +each of them, except William, succeeded to the paternal inheritance, +but left no issue. Thus this woman (not deviating from the nature +of her sex), in order to satiate her anger and revenge, with the +heavy loss of modesty, and with the disgrace of infamy, by the same +act deprived her son of his patrimony, and herself of honour. Nor +is it wonderful if a woman follows her innate bad disposition: for +it is written in Ecclesiastes, "I have found one good man out of a +thousand, but not one good woman;" and in Ecclesiasticus, "There is +no head above the head of a serpent; and there is no wrath above the +wrath of a woman;" and again, "Small is the wickedness of man +compared to the wickedness of woman." And in the same manner, as we +may gather grapes off thorns, or figs off thistles, Tully, +describing the nature of women, says, "Men, perhaps, for the sake of +some advantage will commit one crime; but woman, to gratify one +inclination, will not scruple to perpetrate all sorts of +wickedness." Thus Juvenal, speaking of women, say, + + +" - Nihil est audacior illis +Deprensis, iram atque animos a crimine sumunt. +- Mulier saevissima tunc est +Cum stimulos animo pudor admovet. +- colllige, quod vindicta +Nemo magis gaudet quam foemina. + + +But of the five above-mentioned brothers and sons of earl Milo, the +youngest but one, and the last in the inheritance, was the most +remarkable for his inhumanity; he persecuted David II., bishop of +St. David's, to such a degree, by attacking his possessions, lands, +and vassals, that he was compelled to retire as an exile from the +district of Brecheinoc into England, or to some other parts of his +diocese. Meanwhile, Mahel, being hospitably entertained by Walter +de Clifford, {47} in the castle of Brendlais, {48} the house was by +accident burned down, and he received a mortal blow by a stone +falling from the principal tower on his head: upon which he +instantly dispatched messengers to recal the bishop, and exclaimed +with a lamentable voice, "O, my father and high priest, your saint +has taken most cruel vengeance of me, not waiting the conversion of +a sinner, but hastening his death and overthrow." Having often +repeated similar expressions, and bitterly lamented his situation, +he thus ended his tyranny and life together; the first year of his +government not having elapsed. + +A powerful and noble personage, by name Brachanus, was in ancient +times the ruler of the province of Brecheinoc, and from him it +derived this name. The British histories testify that he had four- +and-twenty daughters, all of whom, dedicated from their youth to +religious observances, happily ended their lives in sanctity. There +are many churches in Wales distinguished by their names, one of +which, situated on the summit of a hill, near Brecheinoc, and not +far from the castle of Aberhodni, is called the church of St. +Almedda, {49} after the name of the holy virgin, who, refusing there +the hand of an earthly spouse, married the Eternal King, and +triumphed in a happy martyrdom; to whose honour a solemn feast is +annually held in the beginning of August, and attended by a large +concourse of people from a considerable distance, when those persons +who labour under various diseases, through the merits of the Blessed +Virgin, received their wished-for health. The circumstances which +occur at every anniversary appear to me remarkable. You may see men +or girls, now in the church, now in the churchyard, now in the +dance, which is led round the churchyard with a song, on a sudden +falling on the ground as in a trance, then jumping up as in a +frenzy, and representing with their hands and feet, before the +people, whatever work they have unlawfully done on feast days; you +may see one man put his hand to the plough, and another, as it were, +goad on the oxen, mitigating their sense of labour, by the usual +rude song: {50} one man imitating the profession of a shoemaker; +another, that of a tanner. Now you may see a girl with a distaff, +drawing out the thread, and winding it again on the spindle; another +walking, and arranging the threads for the web; another, as it were, +throwing the shuttle, and seeming to weave. On being brought into +the church, and led up to the altar with their oblations, you will +be astonished to see them suddenly awakened, and coming to +themselves. Thus, by the divine mercy, which rejoices in the +conversion, not in the death, of sinners, many persons from the +conviction of their senses, are on these feast days corrected and +mended. + +This country sufficiently abounds with grain, and if there is any +deficiency, it is amply supplied from the neighbouring parts of +England; it is well stored with pastures, woods, and wild and +domestic animals. River-fish are plentiful, supplied by the Usk on +one side, and by the Wye on the other; each of them produces salmon +and trout; but the Wye abounds most with the former, the Usk with +the latter. The salmon of the Wye are in season during the winter, +those of the Usk in summer; but the Wye alone produces the fish +called umber, {51} the praise of which is celebrated in the works of +Ambrosius, as being found in great numbers in the rivers near Milan; +"What," says he, "is more beautiful to behold, more agreeable to +smell, or more pleasant to taste?" The famous lake of Brecheinoc +supplies the country with pike, perch, excellent trout, tench, and +eels. A circumstance concerning this lake, which happened a short +time before our days, must not be passed over in silence. "In the +reign of king Henry I., Gruffydd, {52} son of Rhys ap Tewdwr, held +under the king one comot, namely, the fourth part of the cantred of +Caoc, {53} in the cantref Mawr, which, in title and dignity, was +esteemed by the Welsh equal to the southern part of Wales, called +Deheubarth, that is, the right-hand side of Wales. When Gruffydd, +on his return from the king's court, passed near this lake, which at +that cold season of the year was covered with water-fowl of various +sorts, being accompanied by Milo, earl of Hereford, and lord of +Brecheinoc, and Payn Fitz-John, lord of Ewyas, who were at that time +secretaries and privy counsellors to the king; earl Milo, wishing to +draw forth from Gruffydd some discourse concerning his innate +nobility, rather jocularly than seriously thus addressed him: "It +is an ancient saying in Wales, that if the natural prince of the +country, coming to this lake, shall order the birds to sing, they +will immediately obey him." To which Gruffydd, richer in mind than +in gold, (for though his inheritance was diminished, his ambition +and dignity still remained), answered, "Do you therefore, who now +hold the dominion of this land, first give the command;" but he and +Payn having in vain commanded, and Gruffydd, perceiving that it was +necessary for him to do so in his turn, dismounted from his horse, +and falling on his knees towards the east, as if he had been about +to engage in battle, prostrate on the ground, with his eyes and +hands uplifted to heaven, poured forth devout prayers to the Lord: +at length, rising up, and signing his face and forehead with the +figure of the cross, he thus openly spake: "Almighty God, and Lord +Jesus Christ, who knowest all things, declare here this day thy +power. If thou hast caused me to descend lineally from the natural +princes of Wales, I command these birds in thy name to declare it;" +and immediately the birds, beating the water with their wings, began +to cry aloud, and proclaim him. The spectators were astonished and +confounded; and earl Milo hastily returning with Payn Fitz-John to +court, related this singular occurrence to the king, who is said to +have replied, "By the death of Christ (an oath he was accustomed to +use), it is not a matter of so much wonder; for although by our +great authority we commit acts of violence and wrong against these +people, yet they are known to be the rightful inheritors of this +land." + +The lake also {54} (according to the testimony of the inhabitants) +is celebrated for its miracles; for, as we have before observed, it +sometimes assumed a greenish hue, so in our days it has appeared to +be tinged with red, not universally, but as if blood flowed +partially through certain veins and small channels. Moreover it is +sometimes seen by the inhabitants covered and adorned with +buildings, pastures, gardens, and orchards. In the winter, when it +is frozen over, and the surface of the water is converted into a +shell of ice, it emits a horrible sound resembling the moans of many +animals collected together; but this, perhaps, may be occasioned by +the sudden bursting of the shell, and the gradual ebullition of the +air through imperceptible channels. This country is well sheltered +on every side (except the northern) by high mountains; on the +western by those of cantref Bychan; {55} on the southern, by that +range, of which the principal is Cadair Arthur, {56} or the chair of +Arthur, so called from two peaks rising up in the form of a chair, +and which, from its lofty situation, is vulgarly ascribed to Arthur, +the most distinguished king of the Britons. A spring of water rises +on the summit of this mountain, deep, but of a square shape, like a +well, and although no stream runs from it, trout are said to be +sometimes found in it. + +Being thus sheltered on the south by high mountains, the cooler +breezes protect this district from the heat of the sun, and, by +their natural salubrity, render the climate most temperate. Towards +the east are the mountains of Talgarth and Ewyas. {57} The natives +of these parts, actuated by continual enmities and implacable +hatred, are perpetually engaged in bloody contests. But we leave to +others to describe the great and enormous excesses, which in our +time have been here committed, with regard to marriages, divorces, +and many other circumstances of cruelty and oppression. + + + +CHAPTER III + + + +Ewyas and Llanthoni + + +In the deep vale of Ewyas, {58} which is about an arrow-shot broad, +encircled on all sides by lofty mountains, stands the church of +Saint John the Baptist, covered with lead, and built of wrought +stone; and, considering the nature of the place, not unhandsomely +constructed, on the very spot where the humble chapel of David, the +archbishop, had formerly stood decorated only with moss and ivy. A +situation truly calculated for religion, and more adapted to +canonical discipline, than all the monasteries of the British isle. +It was founded by two hermits, in honour of the retired life, far +removed from the bustle of mankind, in a solitary vale watered by +the river Hodeni. From Hodeni it was called Lanhodeni, for Lan +signifies an ecclesiastical place. This derivation may appear far- +fetched, for the name of the place, in Welsh, is Nanthodeni. Nant +signifies a running stream, from whence this place is still called +by the inhabitants Landewi Nanthodeni, {59} or the church of Saint +David upon the river Hodeni. The English therefore corruptly call +it Lanthoni, whereas it should either be called Nanthodeni, that is, +the brook of the Hodeni, or Lanhodeni, the church upon the Hodeni. +Owing to its mountainous situation, the rains are frequent, the +winds boisterous, and the clouds in winter almost continual. The +air, though heavy, is healthy; and diseases are so rare, that the +brotherhood, when worn out by long toil and affliction during their +residence with the daughter, retiring to this asylum, and to their +mother's {60} lap, soon regain their long-wished-for health. For as +my Topographical History of Ireland testifies, in proportion as we +proceed to the eastward, the face of the sky is more pure and +subtile, and the air more piercing and inclement; but as we draw +nearer to the westward, the air becomes more cloudy, but at the same +time is more temperate and healthy. Here the monks, sitting in +their cloisters, enjoying the fresh air, when they happen to look up +towards the horizon, behold the tops of the mountains, as it were, +touching the heavens, and herds of wild deer feeding on their +summits: the body of the sun does not become visible above the +heights of the mountains, even in a clear atmosphere, till about the +hour of prime, or a little before. A place truly fitted for +contemplation, a happy and delightful spot, fully competent, from +its first establishment, to supply all its own wants, had not the +extravagance of English luxury, the pride of a sumptuous table, the +increasing growth of intemperance and ingratitude, added to the +negligence of its patrons and prelates, reduced it from freedom to +servility; and if the step-daughter, no less enviously than +odiously, had not supplanted her mother. + +It seems worthy of remark, that all the priors who were hostile to +this establishment, died by divine visitation. William, {61} who +first despoiled the place of its herds and storehouses, being +deposed by the fraternity, forfeited his right of sepulture amongst +the priors. Clement seemed to like this place of study and prayer, +yet, after the example of Heli the priest, as he neither reproved +nor restrained his brethren from plunder and other offences, he died +by a paralytic stroke. And Roger, who was more an enemy to this +place than either of his predecessors, and openly carried away every +thing which they had left behind, wholly robbing the church of its +books, ornaments, and privileges, was also struck with a paralytic +affection long before his death, resigned his honours, and lingered +out the remainder of his days in sickness. + +In the reign of king Henry I., when the mother church was as +celebrated for her affluence as for her sanctity (two qualities +which are seldom found thus united), the daughter not yet being in +existence (and I sincerely wish she never had been produced), the +fame of so much religion attracted hither Roger, bishop of +Salisbury, who was at that time prime minister; for it is virtue to +love virtue, even in another man, and a great proof of innate +goodness to show a detestation of those vices which hitherto have +not been avoided. When he had reflected with admiration on the +nature of the place, the solitary life of the fraternity, living in +canonical obedience, and serving God without a murmur or complaint, +he returned to the king, and related to him what he thought most +worthy of remark; and after spending the greater part of the day in +the praises of this place, he finished his panegyric with these +words: "Why should I say more? the whole treasure of the king and +his kingdom would not be sufficient to build such a cloister." +Having held the minds of the king and the court for a long time in +suspense by this assertion, he at length explained the enigma, by +saying that he alluded to the cloister of mountains, by which this +church is on every side surrounded. But William, a knight, who +first discovered this place, and his companion Ervistus, a priest, +having heard, perhaps, as it is written in the Fathers, according to +the opinion of Jerome, "that the church of Christ decreased in +virtues as it increased in riches," were accustomed often devoutly +to solicit the Lord that this place might never attain great +possessions. They were exceedingly concerned when this religious +foundation began to be enriched by its first lord and patron, Hugh +de Lacy, {62} and by the lands and ecclesiastical benefices +conferred upon it by the bounty of others of the faithful: from +their predilection to poverty, they rejected many offers of manors +and churches; and being situated in a wild spot, they would not +suffer the thick and wooded parts of the valley to be cultivated and +levelled, lest they should be tempted to recede from their +heremitical mode of life. + +But whilst the establishment of the mother church increased daily in +riches and endowments, availing herself of the hostile state of the +country, a rival daughter sprang up at Gloucester, under the +protection of Milo, earl of Hereford; as if by divine providence, +and through the merits of the saints and prayers of those holy men +(of whom two lie buried before the high altar), it were destined +that the daughter church should be founded in superfluities, whilst +the mother continued in that laudable state of mediocrity which she +had always affected and coveted. Let the active therefore reside +there, the contemplative here; there the pursuit of terrestrial +riches, here the love of celestial delights; there let them enjoy +the concourse of men, here the presence of angels; there let the +powerful of this world be entertained, here let the poor of Christ +be relieved; there, I say, let human actions and declamations be +heard, but here let reading and prayers be heard only in whispers; +there let opulence, the parent and nurse of vice, increase with +cares, here let the virtuous and golden mean be all-sufficient. In +both places the canonical discipline instituted by Augustine, which +is now distinguished above all other orders, is observed; for the +Benedictines, when their wealth was increased by the fervour of +charity, and multiplied by the bounty of the faithful, under the +pretext of a bad dispensation, corrupted by gluttony and indulgence +an order which in its original state of poverty was held in high +estimation. The Cistercian order, derived from the former, at first +deserved praise and commendation from its adhering voluntarily to +the original vows of poverty and sanctity: until ambition, the +blind mother of mischief, unable to fix bounds to prosperity, was +introduced; for as Seneca says, "Too great happiness makes men +greedy, nor are their desires ever so temperate, as to terminate in +what is acquired:" a step is made from great things to greater, and +men having attained what they did not expect, form the most +unbounded hopes; to which the poet Ovid thus alludes. + + +"Luxuriant animi rebus plerumque secundis, +Nec facile est aequa commoda mente pati; + + +And again: + + +"Creverunt opes et opum furiosa cupido, +Et eum possideant plurima, plura petunt." + + +And also the poet Horace: + + +" - scilicet improbae +Crescunt divitiae, tamen +Curtae nescio quid semper abest rei. +Crescentem sequitur cura pecuniam +Majorumque fames." + + +To which purpose the poet Lucan says: + + +" - O vitae tuta facultas +Pauperis, angustique lares, o munera nondum +Intellecta Deum!" + + +And Petronius: + + +Non bibit inter aquas nec poma fugacia carpit +Tantalus infelix, quem sua vota premunt. +Divitis hic magni facies erit, omnia late +Qui tenet, et sicco concoquit ore famem." + + +The mountains are full of herds and horses, the woods well stored +with swine and goats, the pastures with sheep, the plains with +cattle, the arable fields with ploughs; and although these things in +very deed are in great abundance, yet each of them, from the +insatiable nature of the mind, seems too narrow and scanty. +Therefore lands are seized, landmarks removed, boundaries invaded, +and the markets in consequence abound with merchandise, the courts +of justice with law-suits, and the senate with complaints. +Concerning such things, we read in Isaiah, "Woe unto them that join +house to house, that lay field to field, till there be no place, +that they be placed alone in the midst of the earth." + +If therefore, the prophet inveighs so much against those who proceed +to the boundaries, what would he say to those who go far beyond +them? From these and other causes, the true colour of religion was +so converted into the dye of falsehood, that manners internally +black assumed a fair exterior: + + +"Qui color albus erat, nunc est contrarius albo." + + +So that the scripture seems to be fulfilled concerning these men, +"Beware of false prophets, who come to you in sheep's clothing, but +inwardly they are ravenous wolves." But I am inclined to think this +avidity does not proceed from any bad intention. For the monks of +this Order (although themselves most abstemious) incessantly +exercise, more than any others, the acts of charity and beneficence +towards the poor and strangers; and because they do not live as +others upon fixed incomes, but depend only on their labour and +forethought for subsistence, they are anxious to obtain lands, +farms, and pastures, which may enable them to perform these acts of +hospitality. However, to repress and remove from this sacred Order +the detestable stigma of ambition, I wish they would sometimes call +to mind what is written in Ecclesiasticus, "Whoso bringeth an +offering of the goods of the poor, doth as one that killeth the son +before his father's eyes;" and also the sentiment of Gregory, "A +good use does not justify things badly acquired;" and also that of +Ambrose, "He who wrongfully receives, that he may well dispense, is +rather burthened than assisted." Such men seem to say with the +Apostle, "Let us do evil that good may come." For it is written, +"Mercy ought to be of such a nature as may be received, not +rejected, which may purge away sins, not make a man guilty before +the Lord, arising from your own just labours, not those of other +men." Hear what Solomon says; "Honour the Lord from your just +labours." What shall they say who have seized upon other men's +possessions, and exercised charity? "O Lord! in thy name we have +done charitable deeds, we have fed the poor, clothed the naked, and +hospitably received the stranger:" to whom the Lord will answer; "Ye +speak of what ye have given away, but speak not of the rapine ye +have committed; ye relate concerning those ye have fed, and remember +not those ye have killed." I have judged it proper to insert in +this place an instance of an answer which Richard, king of the +English, made to Fulke, {63} a good and holy man, by whom God in +these our days has wrought many signs in the kingdom of France. +This man had among other things said to the king; "You have three +daughters, namely, Pride, Luxury, and Avarice; and as long as they +shall remain with you, you can never expect to be in favour with +God." To which the king, after a short pause, replied: "I have +already given away those daughters in marriage: Pride to the +Templars, Luxury to the Black Monks, and Avarice to the White." It +is a remarkable circumstance, or rather a miracle, concerning +Lanthoni, that, although it is on every side surrounded by lofty +mountains, not stony or rocky, but of a soft nature, and covered +with grass, Parian stones are frequently found there, and are called +free-stones, from the facility with which they admit of being cut +and polished; and with these the church is beautifully built. It is +also wonderful, that when, after a diligent search, all the stones +have been removed from the mountains, and no more can be found, upon +another search, a few days afterwards, they reappear in greater +quantities to those who seek them. With respect to the two Orders, +the Cluniac and the Cistercian, this may be relied upon; although +the latter are possessed of fine buildings, with ample revenues and +estates, they will soon be reduced to poverty and destruction. To +the former, on the contrary, you would allot a barren desert and a +solitary wood; yet in a few years you will find them in possession +of sumptuous churches and houses, and encircled with an extensive +property. The difference of manners (as it appears to me) causes +this contrast. For as without meaning offence to either party, I +shall speak the truth, the one feels the benefits of sobriety, +parsimony, and prudence, whilst the other suffers from the bad +effects of gluttony and intemperance: the one, like bees, collect +their stores into a heap, and unanimously agree in the disposal of +one well-regulated purse; the others pillage and divert to improper +uses the largesses which have been collected by divine assistance, +and by the bounties of the faithful; and whilst each individual +consults solely his own interest, the welfare of the community +suffers; since, as Sallust observes, "Small things increase by +concord, and the greatest are wasted by discord." Besides, sooner +than lessen the number of one of the thirteen or fourteen dishes +which they claim by right of custom, or even in a time of scarcity +or famine recede in the smallest degree from their accustomed good +fare, they would suffer the richest lands and the best buildings of +the monastery to become a prey to usury, and the numerous poor to +perish before their gates. + +The first of these Orders, at a time when there was a deficiency in +grain, with a laudable charity, not only gave away their flocks and +herds, but resigned to the poor one of the two dishes with which +they were always contented. But in these our days, in order to +remove this stain, it is ordained by the Cistercians, "That in +future neither farms nor pastures shall be purchased; and that they +shall be satisfied with those alone which have been freely and +unconditionally bestowed upon them." This Order, therefore, being +satisfied more than any other with humble mediocrity, and, if not +wholly, yet in a great degree checking their ambition; and though +placed in a worldly situation, yet avoiding, as much as possible, +its contagion; neither notorious for gluttony or drunkenness, for +luxury or lust; is fearful and ashamed of incurring public scandal, +as will be more fully explained in the book we mean (by the grace of +God) to write concerning the ecclesiastical Orders. + +In these temperate regions I have obtained (according to the usual +expression) a place of dignity, but no great omen of future pomp or +riches; and possessing a small residence {64} near the castle of +Brecheinoc, well adapted to literary pursuits, and to the +contemplation of eternity, I envy not the riches of Croesus; happy +and contented with that mediocrity, which I prize far beyond all the +perishable and transitory things of this world. But let us return +to our subject. + + + +CHAPTER IV + + + +The journey by Coed Grono and Abergevenni + + +From thence {65} we proceeded through the narrow, woody tract called +the bad pass of Coed Grono, leaving the noble monastery of Lanthoni, +inclosed by its mountains, on our left. The castle of Abergevenni +is so called from its situation at the confluence of the river +Gevenni with the Usk. + +It happened a short time after the death of king Henry I., that +Richard de Clare, a nobleman of high birth, and lord of +Cardiganshire, passed this way on his journey from England into +Wales, accompanied by Brian de Wallingford, lord of this province, +and many men-at-arms. At the passage of Coed Grono, {66} and at the +entrance into the wood, he dismissed him and his attendants, though +much against their will, and proceeded on his journey unarmed; from +too great a presumption of security, preceded only by a minstrel and +a singer, one accompanying the other on the fiddle. The Welsh +awaiting his arrival, with Iorwerth, brother of Morgan of Caerleon, +at their head, and others of his family, rushed upon him unawares +from the thickets, and killed him and many of his followers. Thus +it appears how incautious and neglectful of itself is too great +presumption; for fear teaches foresight and caution in prosperity, +but audacity is precipitate, and inconsiderate rashness will not +await the advice of the leader. + +A sermon having been delivered at Abergevenni, {67} and many persons +converted to the cross, a certain nobleman of those parts, named +Arthenus, came to the archbishop, who was proceeding towards the +castle of Usk, and humbly begged pardon for having neglected to meet +him sooner. Being questioned whether he would take the cross, he +replied, "That ought not be done without the advice of his friends." +The archbishop then asked him, "Are you not going to consult your +wife?" To which he modestly answered, with a downcast look, "When +the work of a man is to be undertaken, the counsel of a woman ought +not to be asked;" and instantly received the cross from the +archbishop. + +We leave to others the relation of those frequent and cruel excesses +which in our times have arisen amongst the inhabitants of these +parts, against the governors of castles, and the vindictive +retaliations of the governors against the natives. But king Henry +II. was the true author, and Ranulf Poer, sheriff of Hereford, the +instrument, of the enormous cruelties and slaughter perpetrated here +in our days, which I thought better to omit, lest bad men should be +induced to follow the example; for although temporary advantage may +seem to arise from a base cause, yet, by the balance of a righteous +judge, the punishment of wickedness may be deferred, though not +totally avoided, according to the words of the poet, - + + +"Non habet eventus sordida praeda bonos." + + +For after seven years of peace and tranquillity, the sons and +grandsons of the deceased, having attained the age of manhood, took +advantage of the absence of the lord of the castle (Abergevenni), +and, burning with revenge, concealed themselves, with no +inconsiderable force during the night, within the woody foss of the +castle. One of them, name Sisillus (Sitsylt) son of Eudaf, on the +preceding day said rather jocularly to the constable, "Here will we +enter this night," pointing out to him a certain angle in the wall +where it seemed the lowest; but since + + +" - Ridendo dicere verum +Quis vetat?" + + +and + + +" - fas est et ab hoste doceri," + + +the constable and his household watched all night under arms, till +at length, worn out by fatigue, they all retired to rest on the +appearance of daylight, upon which the enemy attacked the walls with +scaling-ladders, at the very place that had been pointed out. The +constable and his wife were taken prisoners, with many others, a few +persons only escaping, who had sheltered themselves in the principal +tower. With the exception of this stronghold, the enemy violently +seized and burned everything; and thus, by the righteous judgment of +God, the crime was punished in the very place where it had been +committed. A short time after the taking of this fortress, when the +aforesaid sheriff was building a castle at Landinegat, {68} near +Monmouth, with the assistance of the army he had brought from +Hereford, he was attacked at break of day, when + + +"Tythoni croceum linquens Aurora cubile" + + +was only beginning to divest herself of the shades of night, by the +young men from Gwent and the adjacent parts, with the descendants of +those who had been slain. Through aware of this premeditated +attack, and prepared and drawn up in battle array, they were +nevertheless repulsed within their intrenchments, and the sheriff, +together with nine of the chief men of Hereford, and many others, +were pierced to death with lances. It is remarkable that, although +Ranulf, besides many other mortal wounds, had the veins and arteries +of his neck and his windpipe separated with a sword, he made signs +for a priest, and from the merit of his past life, and the honour +and veneration he had shewn to those chosen into the sacred order of +Christ, he was confessed, and received extreme unction before he +died. And, indeed, many events concur to prove that, as those who +respect the priesthood, in their latter days enjoy the satisfaction +of friendly intercourse, so do their revilers and accusers often die +without that consolation. William de Braose, who was not the author +of the crime we have preferred passing over in silence, but the +executioner, or, rather, not the preventer of its execution, while +the murderous bands were fulfilling the orders they had received, +was precipitated into a deep foss, and being taken by the enemy, was +drawn forth, and only by a sudden effort of his own troops, and by +divine mercy, escaped uninjured. Hence it is evident that he who +offends in a less degree, and unwillingly permits a thing to be +done, is more mildly punished than he who adds counsel and authority +to his act. Thus, in the sufferings of Christ, Judas was punished +with hanging, the Jews with destruction and banishment, and Pilate +with exile. But the end of the king, who assented to and ordered +this treachery, sufficiently manifested in what manner, on account +of this and many other enormities he had committed (as in the book +"De Instructione Principis," by God's guidance, we shall set forth), +he began with accumulated ignominy, sorrow, and confusion, to suffer +punishment in this world. {69} + +It seems worthy of remark, that the people of what is called Venta +{70} are more accustomed to war, more famous for valour, and more +expert in archery, than those of any other part of Wales. The +following examples prove the truth of this assertion. In the last +capture of the aforesaid castle, which happened in our days, two +soldiers passing over a bridge to take refuge in a tower built on a +mound of earth, the Welsh, taking them in the rear, penetrated with +their arrows the oaken portal of the tower, which was four fingers +thick; in memory of which circumstance, the arrows were preserved in +the gate. William de Braose also testifies that one of his +soldiers, in a conflict with the Welsh, was wounded by an arrow, +which passed through his thigh and the armour with which it was +cased on both sides, and, through that part of the saddle which is +called the alva, mortally wounded the horse. Another soldier had +his hip, equally sheathed in armour, penetrated by an arrow quite to +the saddle, and on turning his horse round, received a similar wound +on the opposite hip, which fixed him on both sides of his seat. +What more could be expected from a balista? Yet the bows used by +this people are not made of horn, ivory, or yew, but of wild elm; +unpolished, rude, and uncouth, but stout; not calculated to shoot an +arrow to a great distance, but to inflict very severe wounds in +close fight. + +But let us again return to our Itinerary. + + + +CHAPTER V + + + +Of the progress by the castle of Usk and the town of Caerleon + + +At the castle of Usk, a multitude of persons influenced by the +archbishop's sermon, and by the exhortations of the good and worthy +William bishop of Landaf, {71} who faithfully accompanied us through +his diocese, were signed with the cross; Alexander archdeacon of +Bangor {72} acting as interpreter to the Welsh. It is remarkable +that many of the most notorious murderers, thieves, and robbers of +the neighbourhood were here converted, to the astonishment of the +spectators. Passing from thence through Caerleon and leaving far on +our left hand the castle of Monmouth, and the noble forest of Dean, +situated on the other side of the Wye and on this side the Severn, +and which amply supplies Gloucester with iron and venison, we spent +the night at Newport, having crossed the river Usk three times. {73} +Caerleon means the city of Legions, Caer, in the British language, +signifying a city or camp, for there the Roman legions, sent into +this island, were accustomed to winter, and from this circumstance +it was styled the city of legions. This city was of undoubted +antiquity, and handsomely built of masonry, with courses of bricks, +by the Romans. Many vestiges of its former splendour may yet be +seen; immense palaces, formerly ornamented with gilded roofs, in +imitation of Roman magnificence, inasmuch as they were first raised +by the Roman princes, and embellished with splendid buildings; a +tower of prodigious size, remarkable hot baths, relics of temples, +and theatres, all inclosed within fine walls, parts of which remain +standing. You will find on all sides, both within and without the +circuit of the walls, subterraneous buildings, aqueducts, +underground passages; and what I think worthy of notice, stoves +contrived with wonderful art, to transmit the heat insensibly +through narrow tubes passing up the side walls. + +Julius and Aaron, after suffering martyrdom, were buried in this +city, and had each a church dedicated to him. After Albanus and +Amphibalus, they were esteemed the chief protomartyrs of Britannia +Major. In ancient times there were three fine churches in this +city: one dedicated to Julius the martyr, graced with a choir of +nuns; another to Aaron, his associate, and ennobled with an order of +canons; and the third distinguished as the metropolitan of Wales. +Amphibalus, the instructor of Albanus in the true faith, was born in +this place. This city is well situated on the river Usk, navigable +to the sea, and adorned with woods and meadows. The Roman +ambassadors here received their audience at the court of the great +king Arthur; and here also, the archbishop Dubricius ceded his +honours to David of Menevia, the metropolitan see being translated +from this place to Menevia, according to the prophecy of Merlin +Ambrosius. "Menevia pallio urbis Legionum induetur." "Menevia +shall be invested with the pall of the city of Legions." + +Not far hence is a rocky eminence, impending over the Severn, called +by the English Gouldcliffe {74} or golden rock, because from the +reflections of the sun's rays it assumes a bright golden colour: + + +"Nec mihi de facili fieri persuasio posset, +Quod frustra tantum dederit natura nito rem +Saxis, quodque suo fuerit flos hic sine fructu." + + +Nor can I be easily persuaded that nature hath given such splendour +to the rocks in vain, and that this flower should be without fruit, +if any one would take the pains to penetrate deeply into the bowels +of the earth; if any one, I say, would extract honey from the rock, +and oil from the stone. Indeed many riches of nature lie concealed +through inattention, which the diligence of posterity will bring to +light; for, as necessity first taught the ancients to discover the +conveniences of life, so industry, and a greater acuteness of +intellect, have laid open many things to the moderns; as the poet +says, assigning two causes for these discoveries, + + +" - labor omnia vincit +Improbus, et duris urgens in rebus egestas." + + +It is worthy of observation, that there lived in the neighbourhood +of this City of Legions, in our time, a Welshman named Melerius, +who, under the following circumstances, acquired the knowledge of +future and occult events. Having, on a certain night, namely that +of Palm Sunday, met a damsel whom he had long loved, in a pleasant +and convenient place, while he was indulging in her embraces, +suddenly, instead of a beautiful girl, he found in his arms a hairy, +rough, and hideous creature, the sight of which deprived him of his +senses, and he became mad. After remaining many years in this +condition, he was restored to health in the church of St. David's, +through the merits of its saints. But having always an +extraordinary familiarity with unclean spirits, by seeing them, +knowing them, talking with them, and calling each by his proper +name, he was enabled, through their assistance, to foretel future +events. He was, indeed, often deceived (as they are) with respect +to circumstances at a great distance of time or place, but was less +mistaken in affairs which were likely to happen nearer, or within +the space of a year. The spirits appeared to him, usually on foot, +equipped as hunters, with horns suspended from their necks, and +truly as hunters, not of animals, but of souls. He particularly met +them near monasteries and monastic cells; for where rebellion +exists, there is the greatest need of armies and strength. He knew +when any one spoke falsely in his presence, for he saw the devil, as +it were, leaping and exulting upon the tongue of the liar. If he +looked on a book faultily or falsely written, or containing a false +passage, although wholly illiterate, he would point out the place +with his finger. Being questioned how he could gain such knowledge, +he said that he was directed by the demon's finger to the place. In +the same manner, entering into the dormitory of a monastery, he +indicated the bed of any monk not sincerely devoted to religion. He +said, that the spirit of gluttony and surfeit was in every respect +sordid; but that the spirit of luxury and lust was more beautiful +than others in appearance, though in fact most foul. If the evil +spirits oppressed him too much, the Gospel of St. John was placed on +his bosom, when, like birds, they immediately vanished; but when +that book was removed, and the History of the Britons, by Geoffrey +Arthur, {75} was substituted in its place, they instantly reappeared +in greater numbers, and remained a longer time than usual on his +body and on the book. + +It is worthy of remark, that Barnabas placed the Gospel of St. +Matthew upon sick persons, and they were healed; from which, as well +as from the foregoing circumstance, it appears how great a dignity +and reverence is due to the sacred books of the gospel, and with +what danger and risk of damnation every one who swears falsely by +them, deviates from the paths of truth. The fall of Enoch, abbot of +Strata Marcella, {76} too well known in Wales, was revealed to many +the day after it happened, by Melerius, who, being asked how he knew +this circumstance, said, that a demon came to him disguised as a +hunter, and, exulting in the prospect of such a victory, foretold +the ruin of the abbot, and explained in what manner he would make +him run away with a nun from the monastery. The end in view was +probably the humiliation and correction of the abbot, as was proved +from his shortly returning home so humbled and amended, that he +scarcely could be said to have erred. Seneca says, "He falls not +badly, who rises stronger from his fall." Peter was more strenuous +after his denial of Christ, and Paul after being stoned; since, +where sin abounds, there will grace also superabound. Mary Magdalen +was strengthened after her frailty. He secretly revealed to Canon, +the good and religious abbot of Alba-domus, his opinion of a certain +woman whom he had seen; upon which the holy man confessed, with +tears in his eyes, his predilection for her, and received from three +priests the discipline of incontinence. For as that long and +experienced subtle enemy, by arguing from certain conjectural signs, +may foretell future by past events, so by insidious treachery and +contrivance, added to exterior appearances, he may sometimes be able +to discover the interior workings of the mind. + +At the same time there was in Lower Gwent a demon incubus, who, from +his love for a certain young woman, and frequenting the place where +she lived, often conversed with men, and frequently discovered +hidden things and future events. Melerius being interrogated +concerning him, said he knew him well, and mentioned his name. He +affirmed that unclean spirits conversed with mankind before war, or +any great internal disturbance, which was shortly afterwards proved, +by the destruction of the province by Howel, son of Iorwerth of +Caerleon. At the same time, when king Henry II., having taken the +king of Scotland prisoner, had restored peace to his kingdom, Howel, +fearful of the royal revenge for the war he had waged, was relieved +from his difficulties by these comfortable words of Melerius: "Fear +not," says he, "Howel, the wrath of the king, since he must go into +other parts. An important city which he possesses beyond sea is now +besieged by the king of France, on which account he will postpone +every other business, and hasten thither with all possible +expedition." Three days afterwards, Howel received advice that this +event had really come to pass, owing to the siege of the city of +Rouen. He forewarned also Howel of the betraying of his castle at +Usk, a long time before it happened, and informed him that he should +be wounded, but not mortally; and that he should escape alive from +the town. In this alone he was deceived, for he soon after died of +the same wound. Thus does that archenemy favour his friends for a +time, and thus does he at last reward them. + +In all these singular events it appears to me most wonderful that he +saw those spirits so plainly with his carnal eyes, because spirits +cannot be discerned by the eyes of mortals, unless they assume a +corporeal substance; but if in order to be seen they had assumed +such a substance, how could they remain unperceived by other persons +who were present? Perhaps they were seen by such a miraculous +vision as when king Balthazar saw the hand of one writing on the +wall, "Mane, Techel, Phares," that is, weighed, numbered, divided; +who in the same night lost both his kingdom and his life. But +Cambria well knows how in these districts, from a blind desire of +dominion, a total dissolution of the endearing ties of +consanguinity, and a bad and depraved example diffused throughout +the country, good faith has been so shamefully perverted and abused. + + + +CHAPTER VI + + + +Newport and Caerdyf + + +At Newport, where the river Usk, descending from its original source +in Cantref Bachan, falls into the sea, many persons were induced to +take the cross. Having passed the river Remni, we approached the +noble castle of Caerdyf, {77} situated on the banks of the river +Taf. In the neighbourhood of Newport, which is in the district of +Gwentluc, {78} there is a small stream called Nant Pencarn, {79} +passable only at certain fords, not so much owing to the depth of +its waters, as from the hollowness of its channel and muddy bottom. +The public road led formerly to a ford, called Ryd Pencarn, that is, +the ford under the head of a rock, from Rhyd, which in the British +language signifies a ford, Pen, the head, and Cam, a rock; of which +place Merlin Sylvester had thus prophesied: "Whenever you shall see +a mighty prince with a freckled face make an hostile irruption into +the southern part of Britain, should he cross the ford of Pencarn, +then know ye, that the force of Cambria shall be brought low." Now +it came to pass in our times, that king Henry II. took up arms +against Rhys, the son of Gruffydd, and directed his march through +the southern part of Wales towards Caermardyn. On the day he +intended to pass over Nant Pentcarn, the old Britons of the +neighbourhood watched his approach towards the ford with the utmost +solicitude; knowing, since he was both mighty and freckled, that if +the passage of the destined ford was accomplished, the prophecy +concerning him would undoubtedly be fulfilled. When the king had +followed the road leading to a more modern ford of the river (the +old one spoken of in the prophecy having been for a long time in +disuse), and was preparing to pass over, the pipers and trumpeters, +called Cornhiriet, from HIR, long, and CORNU, a horn, began to sound +their instruments on the opposite bank, in honour of the king. The +king's horse, startling at the wild, unusual noise, refused to obey +the spur, and enter the water; upon which, the king, gathering up +the reins, hastened, in violent wrath, to the ancient ford, which he +rapidly passed; and the Britons returned to their homes, alarmed and +dismayed at the destruction which seemed to await them. An +extraordinary circumstance occurred likewise at the castle of +Caerdyf. William earl of Gloucester, son of earl Robert, {80} who, +besides that castle, possessed by hereditary right all the province +of Gwladvorgan, {81} that is, the land of Morgan, had a dispute with +one of his dependants, whose name was Ivor the Little, being a man +of short stature, but of great courage. This man was, after the +manner of the Welsh, owner of a tract of mountainous and woody +country, of the whole, or a part of which, the earl endeavoured to +deprive him. At that time the castle of Caerdyf was surrounded with +high walls, guarded by one hundred and twenty men-at-arms, a +numerous body of archers, and a strong watch. The city also +contained many stipendiary soldiers; yet, in defiance of all these +precautions of security, Ivor, in the dead of night, secretly scaled +the walls, and, seizing the count and countess, with their only son, +carried them off into the woods, and did not release them until he +had recovered everything that had been unjustly taken from him, and +received a compensation of additional property; for, as the poet +observes, + + +"Spectandum est semper ne magna injuria fiat +Fortibus et miseris; tollas licet omne quod usquam est +Argenti atque auri, spoliatis arma supersunt." + + +In this same town of Caerdyf, king Henry II., on his return from +Ireland, the first Sunday after Easter, passed the night. In the +morning, having heard mass, he remained at his devotions till every +one had quitted the chapel of St. Piranus. {82} As he mounted his +horse at the door, a man of a fair complexion, with a round tonsure +and meagre countenance, tall, and about forty years of age, habited +in a white robe falling down to his naked feet, thus addressed him +in the Teutonic tongue: "God hold the, cuing," which signifies, +"May God protect you, king;" and proceeded, in the same language, +"Christ and his Holy Mother, John the Baptist, and the Apostle Peter +salute thee, and command thee strictly to prohibit throughout thy +whole dominions every kind of buying or selling on Sundays, and not +to suffer any work to be done on those days, except such as relates +to the preparation of daily food; that due attention may be paid to +the performance of the divine offices. If thou dost this, all thy +undertakings shall be successful, and thou shalt lead a happy life." +The king, in French, desired Philip de Mercros, {83} who held the +reins of his horse, to ask the rustic if he had dreamt this? and +when the soldier explained to him the king's question in English, he +replied in the same language he had before used, "Whether I have +dreamt it or not, observe what day this is (addressing himself to +the king, not to the interpreter), and unless thou shalt do so, and +quickly amend thy life, before the expiration of one year, thou +shalt hear such things concerning what thou lovest best in this +world, and shalt thereby be so much troubled, that thy disquietude +shall continue to thy life's end." The king, spurring his horse, +proceeded a little way towards the gate, when, stopping suddenly, he +ordered his attendants to call the good man back. The soldier, and +a young man named William, the only persons who remained with the +king, accordingly called him, and sought him in vain in the chapel, +and in all the inns of the city. The king, vexed that he had not +spoken more to him, waited alone a long time, while other persons +went in search of him; and when he could not be found, pursued his +journey over the bridge of Remni to Newport. The fatal prediction +came to pass within the year, as the man had threatened; for the +king's three sons, Henry, the eldest, and his brothers, Richard of +Poitou, and Geoffrey, count of Britany, in the following Lent, +deserted to Louis king of France, which caused the king greater +uneasiness than he had ever before experienced; and which, by the +conduct of some one of his sons, was continued till the time of his +decease. This monarch, through divine mercy (for God is more +desirous of the conversion than the destruction of a sinner), +received many other admonitions and reproofs about this time, and +shortly before his death; all of which, being utterly incorrigible, +he obstinately and obdurately despised, as will be more fully set +forth (by the favour of God) in my book, "de Principis +Instructione." + +Not far from Caerdyf is a small island situated near the shore of +the Severn, called Barri, from St. Baroc {84} who formerly lived +there, and whose remains are deposited in a chapel overgrown with +ivy, having been transferred to a coffin. From hence a noble +family, of the maritime parts of South Wales, who owned this island +and the adjoining estates, received the name of de Barri. It is +remarkable that, in a rock near the entrance of the island, there is +a small cavity, to which, if the ear is applied, a noise is heard +like that of smiths at work, the blowing of bellows, strokes of +hammers, grinding of tools, and roaring of furnaces; and it might +easily be imagined that such noises, which are continued at the ebb +and flow of the tides, were occasioned by the influx of the sea +under the cavities of the rocks. + + + +CHAPTER VII + + + +The see of Landaf and monastery of Margan, and the remarkable things +in those parts + + +On the following morning, the business of the cross being publicly +proclaimed at Landaf, the English standing on one side, and the +Welsh on the other, many persons of each nation took the cross, and +we remained there that night with William bishop of that place, {85} +a discreet and good man. The word Landaf {86} signifies the church +situated upon the river Taf, and is now called the church of St. +Teileau, formerly bishop of that see. The archbishop having +celebrated mass early in the morning, before the high altar of the +cathedral, we immediately pursued our journey by the little cell of +Ewenith {87} to the noble Cistercian monastery of Margan. {88} This +monastery, under the direction of Conan, a learned and prudent +abbot, was at this time more celebrated for its charitable deeds +than any other of that order in Wales. On this account, it is an +undoubted fact, that, as a reward for that abundant charity which +the monastery had always, in times of need, exercised towards +strangers and poor persons, in a season of approaching famine, their +corn and provisions were perceptibly, by divine assistance, +increased, like the widow's cruise of oil by the means of the +prophet Elijah. About the time of its foundation, a young man of +those parts, by birth a Welshman, having claimed and endeavoured to +apply to his own use certain lands which had been given to the +monastery, by the instigation of the devil set on fire the best barn +belonging to the monks, which was filled with corn; but, immediately +becoming mad, he ran about the country in a distracted state, nor +ceased raving until he was seized by his parents and bound. Having +burst his bonds, and tired out his keepers, he came the next morning +to the gate of the monastery, incessantly howling out that he was +inwardly burnt by the influence of the monks, and thus in a few days +expired, uttering the most miserable complaints. It happened also, +that a young man was struck by another in the guests' hall; but on +the following day, by divine vengeance, the aggressor was, in the +presence of the fraternity, killed by an enemy, and his lifeless +body was laid out in the same spot in the hall where the sacred +house had been violated. In our time too, in a period of scarcity, +while great multitudes of poor were daily crowding before the gates +for relief, by the unanimous consent of the brethren, a ship was +sent to Bristol to purchase corn for charitable purposes. The +vessel, delayed by contrary winds, and not returning (but rather +affording an opportunity for the miracle), on the very day when +there would have been a total deficiency of corn, both for the poor +and the convent, a field near the monastery was found suddenly to +ripen, more than a month before the usual time of harvest: thus, +divine Providence supplied the brotherhood and the numerous poor +with sufficient nourishment until autumn. By these and other signs +of virtues, the place accepted by God began to be generally esteemed +and venerated. + +It came to pass also in our days, during the period when the four +sons of Caradoc son of Iestin, and nephews of prince Rhys by his +sister, namely, Morgan, Meredyth, Owen, and Cadwallon, bore rule for +their father in those parts, that Cadwallon, through inveterate +malice, slew his brother Owen. But divine vengeance soon overtook +him; for on his making a hostile attack on a certain castle, he was +crushed to pieces by the sudden fall of its walls: and thus, in the +presence of a numerous body of his own and his brother's forces, +suffered the punishment which his barbarous and unnatural conduct +had so justly merited. + +Another circumstance which happened here deserves notice. A +greyhound belonging to the aforesaid Owen, large, beautiful, and +curiously spotted with a variety of colours, received seven wounds +from arrows and lances, in the defence of his master, and on his +part did much injury to the enemy and assassins. When his wounds +were healed, he was sent to king Henry II. by William earl of +Gloucester, in testimony of so great and extraordinary a deed. A +dog, of all animals, is most attached to man, and most easily +distinguishes him; sometimes, when deprived of his master, he +refuses to live, and in his master's defence is bold enough to brave +death; ready, therefore, to die, either with or for his master. I +do not think it superfluous to insert here an example which +Suetonius gives in his book on the nature of animals, and which +Ambrosius also relates in his Exameron. "A man, accompanied by a +dog, was killed in a remote part of the city of Antioch, by a +soldier, for the sake of plunder. The murderer, concealed by the +darkness of the morning, escaped into another part of the city; the +corpse lay unburied; a large concourse of people assembled; and the +dog, with bitter howlings, lamented his master's fate. The +murderer, by chance, passed that way, and, in order to prove his +innocence, mingled with the crowd of spectators, and, as if moved by +compassion, approached the body of the deceased. The dog, +suspending for a while his moans, assumed the arms of revenge; +rushed upon the man, and seized him, howling at the same time in so +dolorous a manner, that all present shed tears. It was considered +as a proof against the murderer, that the dog seized him from +amongst so many, and would not let him go; and especially, as +neither the crime of hatred, envy, or injury, could possibly, in +this case, be urged against the dog. On account, therefore, of such +a strong suspicion of murder (which the soldier constantly denied), +it was determined that the truth of the matter should be tried by +combat. The parties being assembled in a field, with a crowd of +people around, the dog on one side, and the soldier, armed with a +stick of a cubit's length, on the other, the murderer was at length +overcome by the victorious dog, and suffered an ignominious death on +the common gallows. + +Pliny and Solinus relate that a certain king, who was very fond of +dogs, and addicted to hunting, was taken and imprisoned by his +enemies, and in a most wonderful manner liberated, without any +assistance from his friends, by a pack of dogs, who had +spontaneously sequestered themselves in the mountainous and woody +regions, and from thence committed many atrocious acts of +depredation on the neighbouring herds and flocks. I shall take this +opportunity of mentioning what from experience and ocular testimony +I have observed respecting the nature of dogs. A dog is in general +sagacious, but particularly with respect to his master; for when he +has for some time lost him in a crowd, he depends more upon his nose +than upon his eyes; and, in endeavouring to find him, he first looks +about, and then applies his nose, for greater certainty, to his +clothes, as if nature had placed all the powers of infallibility in +that feature. The tongue of a dog possesses a medicinal quality; +the wolf's, on the contrary, a poisonous: the dog heals his wounds +by licking them, the wolf, by a similar practice, infects them; and +the dog, if he has received a wound in his neck or head, or any part +of his body where he cannot apply his tongue, ingeniously makes use +of his hinder foot as a conveyance of the healing qualities to the +parts affected. + + + +CHAPTER VIII + + + +Passage of the rivers Avon and Neth - and of Abertawe and Goer + + +Continuing our journey, {89} not far from Margan, where the +alternate vicissitudes of a sandy shore and the tide commence, we +forded over the river Avon, having been considerably delayed by the +ebbing of the sea; and under the guidance of Morgan, eldest son of +Caradoc, proceeded along the sea-shore towards the river Neth, +which, on account of its quicksands, is the most dangerous and +inaccessible river in South Wales. A pack-horse belonging to the +author, which had proceeded by the lower way near the sea, although +in the midst of many others, was the only one which sunk down into +the abyss, but he was at last, with great difficulty, extricated, +and not without some damage done to the baggage and books. Yet, +although we had Morgan, the prince of that country, as our +conductor, we did not reach the river without great peril, and some +severe falls; for the alarm occasioned by this unusual kind of road, +made us hasten our steps over the quicksands, in opposition to the +advice of our guide, and fear quickened our pace; whereas, through +these difficult passages, as we there learned, the mode of +proceeding should be with moderate speed. But as the fords of that +river experience a change by every monthly tide, and cannot be found +after violent rains and floods, we did not attempt the ford, but +passed the river in a boat, leaving the monastery of Neth {90} on +our right hand, approaching again to the district of St. David's, +and leaving the diocese of Landaf (which we had entered at +Abergevenny) behind us. + +It happened in our days that David II., bishop of St. David's, +passing this way, and finding the ford agitated by a recent storm, a +chaplain of those parts, named Rotherch Falcus, being conversant in +the proper method of crossing these rivers, undertook, at the desire +of the bishop, the dangerous task of trying the ford. Having +mounted a large and powerful horse, which had been selected from the +whole train for this purpose, he immediately crossed the ford, and +fled with great rapidity to the neighbouring woods, nor could he be +induced to return until the suspension which he had lately incurred +was removed, and a full promise of security and indemnity obtained; +the horse was then restored to one party, and his service to the +other. + +Entering the province called Goer, {91} we spent the night at the +castle of Sweynsei, {92} which in Welsh is called Abertawe, or the +fall of the river Tawe into the sea. The next morning, the people +being assembled after mass, and many having been induced to take the +cross, an aged man of that district, named Cador, thus addressed the +archbishop: "My lord, if I now enjoyed my former strength, and the +vigour of youth, no alms should ransom me, no desire of inactivity +restrain me, from engaging in the laudable undertaking you preach; +but since my weak age and the injuries of time deprive me of this +desirable benefit (for approaching years bring with them many +comforts, which those that are passed take away), if I cannot, owing +to the infirmity of my body, attain a full merit, yet suffer me, by +giving a tenth of all I possess, to attain a half." Then falling +down at the feet of the archbishop, he deposited in his hands, for +the service of the cross, the tenth of his estate, weeping bitterly, +and intreating from him the remission of one half of the enjoined +penance. After a short time he returned, and thus continued: "My +lord, if the will directs the action, and is itself, for the most +part, considered as the act, and as I have a full and firm +inclination to undertake this journey, I request a remission of the +remaining part of the penance, and in addition to my former gift, I +will equal the sum from the residue of my tenths." The archbishop, +smiling at his devout ingenuity, embraced him with admiration. + +On the same night, two monks, who waited in the archbishop's +chamber, conversing about the occurrences of their journey, and the +dangers of the road, one of them said (alluding to the wildness of +the country), "This is a hard province;" the other (alluding to the +quicksands), wittily replied, "Yet yesterday it was found too soft." + +A short time before our days, a circumstance worthy of note occurred +in these parts, which Elidorus, a priest, most strenuously affirmed +had befallen himself. When a youth of twelve years, and learning +his letters, since, as Solomon says, "The root of learning is +bitter, although the fruit is sweet," in order to avoid the +discipline and frequent stripes inflicted on him by his preceptor, +he ran away, and concealed himself under the hollow bank of a river. +After fasting in that situation for two days, two little men of +pigmy stature appeared to him, saying, "If you will come with us, we +will lead you into a country full of delights and sports." +Assenting and rising up, he followed his guides through a path, at +first subterraneous and dark, into a most beautiful country, adorned +with rivers and meadows, woods and plains, but obscure, and not +illuminated with the full light of the sun. All the days were +cloudy, and the nights extremely dark, on account of the absence of +the moon and stars. The boy was brought before the king, and +introduced to him in the presence of the court; who, having examined +him for a long time, delivered him to his son, who was then a boy. +These men were of the smallest stature, but very well proportioned +in their make; they were all of a fair complexion, with luxuriant +hair falling over their shoulders like that of women. They had +horses and greyhounds adapted to their size. They neither ate flesh +nor fish, but lived on milk diet, made up into messes with saffron. +They never took an oath, for they detested nothing so much as lies. +As often as they returned from our upper hemisphere, they reprobated +our ambition, infidelities, and inconstancies; they had no form of +public worship, being strict lovers and reverers, as it seemed, of +truth. + +The boy frequently returned to our hemisphere, sometimes by the way +he had first gone, sometimes by another: at first in company with +other persons, and afterwards alone, and made himself known only to +his mother, declaring to her the manners, nature, and state of that +people. Being desired by her to bring a present of gold, with which +that region abounded, he stole, while at play with the king's son, +the golden ball with which he used to divert himself, and brought it +to his mother in great haste; and when he reached the door of his +father's house, but not unpursued, and was entering it in a great +hurry, his foot stumbled on the threshold, and falling down into the +room where his mother was sitting, the two pigmies seized the ball +which had dropped from his hand, and departed, shewing the boy every +mark of contempt and derision. On recovering from his fall, +confounded with shame, and execrating the evil counsel of his +mother, he returned by the usual track to the subterraneous road, +but found no appearance of any passage, though he searched for it on +the banks of the river for nearly the space of a year. But since +those calamities are often alleviated by time, which reason cannot +mitigate, and length of time alone blunts the edge of our +afflictions, and puts an end to many evils, the youth having been +brought back by his friends and mother, and restored to his right +way of thinking, and to his learning, in process of time attained +the rank of priesthood. Whenever David II., bishop of St. David's, +talked to him in his advanced state of life concerning this event, +he could never relate the particulars without shedding tears. He +had made himself acquainted with the language of that nation, the +words of which, in his younger days, he used to recite, which, as +the bishop often had informed me, were very conformable to the Greek +idiom. When they asked for water, they said Ydor ydorum, which +meant bring water, for Ydor in their language, as well as in the +Greek, signifies water, from whence vessels for water are called +{Greek text which cannot be reproduced}; and Dur also, in the +British language, signifies water. When they wanted salt they said, +Halgein ydorum, bring salt: salt is called {Greek text} in Greek, +and Halen in British, for that language, from the length of time +which the Britons (then called Trojans, and afterwards Britons, from +Brito, their leader) remained in Greece after the destruction of +Troy, became, in many instances, similar to the Greek. + +It is remarkable that so many languages should correspond in one +word, {Greek} in Greek, Halen in British, and Halgein in the Irish +tongue, the g being inserted; Sal in Latin, because, as Priscian +says, "the s is placed in some words instead of an aspirate," as +{Greek} in Greek is called Sal in Latin, {Greek} - semi - {Greek} - +septem - Sel in French - the A being changed into E - Salt in +English, by the addition of T to the Latin; Sout, in the Teutonic +language: there are therefore seven or eight languages agreeing in +this one word. If a scrupulous inquirer should ask my opinion of +the relation here inserted, I answer with Augustine, "that the +divine miracles are to be admired, not discussed." Nor do I, by +denial, place bounds to the divine power, nor, by assent, insolently +extend what cannot be extended. But I always call to mind the +saying of St. Jerome; "You will find," says he, "many things +incredible and improbable, which nevertheless are true; for nature +cannot in any respect prevail against the lord of nature." These +things, therefore, and similar contingencies, I should place, +according to the opinion of Augustine, among those particulars which +are neither to be affirmed, nor too positively denied. + + + +CHAPTER IX + + + +Passage over the rivers Lochor and Wendraeth; and of Cydweli + + +Thence we proceeded towards the river Lochor, {93} through the +plains in which Howel, son of Meredyth of Brecheinoc, after the +decease of king Henry I., gained a signal victory over the English. +Having first crossed the river Lochor, and afterwards the water +called Wendraeth, {94} we arrived at the castle of Cydweli. {95} In +this district, after the death of king Henry, whilst Gruffydd son of +Rhys, the prince of South Wales, was engaged in soliciting +assistance from North Wales, his wife Gwenliana (like the queen of +the Amazons, and a second Penthesilea) led an army into these parts; +but she was defeated by Maurice de Londres, lord of that country, +and Geoffrey, the bishop's constable. {96} Morgan, one of her sons, +whom she had arrogantly brought with her in that expedition, was +slain, and the other, Malgo, taken prisoner; and she, with many of +her followers, was put to death. During the reign of king Henry I., +when Wales enjoyed a state of tranquillity, the above-mentioned +Maurice had a forest in that neighbourhood, well stocked with wild +animals, and especially deer, and was extremely tenacious of his +venison. His wife (for women are often very expert in deceiving +men) made use of this curious stratagem. Her husband possessed, on +the side of the wood next the sea, some extensive pastures, and +large flocks of sheep. Having made all the shepherds and chief +people in her house accomplices and favourers of her design, and +taking advantage of the simple courtesy of her husband, she thus +addressed him: "It is wonderful that being lord over beasts, you +have ceased to exercise dominion over them; and by not making use of +your deer, do not now rule over them, but are subservient to them; +and behold how great an abuse arises from too much patience; for +they attack our sheep with such an unheard-of rage, and unusual +voracity, that from many they are become few; from being +innumerable, only numerous." To make her story more probable, she +caused some wool to be inserted between the intestines of two stags +which had been embowelled; and her husband, thus artfully deceived, +sacrificed his deer to the rapacity of his dogs. + + + +CHAPTER X + + + +Tywy river - Caermardyn - monastery of Albelande + + +Having crossed the river Tywy in a boat, we proceeded towards +Caermardyn, leaving Lanstephan and Talachar {97} on the sea-coast to +our left. After the death of king Henry II., Rhys, the son of +Gruffydd, took these two castles by assault; then, having laid +waste, by fire and sword, the provinces of Penbroch and Ros, he +besieged Caermardyn, but failed in his attempt. Caermardyn {98} +signifies the city of Merlin, because, according to the British +History, he was there said to have been begotten of an incubus. + +This ancient city is situated on the banks of the noble river Tywy, +surrounded by woods and pastures, and was strongly inclosed with +walls of brick, part of which are still standing; having Cantref +Mawr, the great cantred, or hundred, on the eastern side, a safe +refuge, in times of danger, to the inhabitants of South Wales, on +account of its thick woods; where is also the castle of Dinevor, +{99} built on a lofty summit above the Tywy, the royal seat of the +princes of South Wales. In ancient times, there were three regal +palaces in Wales: Dinevor in South Wales, Aberfrau in North Wales, +situated in Anglesea, and Pengwern in Powys, now called Shrewsbury +(Slopesburia); Pengwern signifies the head of a grove of alders. +Recalling to mind those poetical passages: + + +"Dolus an virtus quis in hoste requirat?" + + +and + + +"Et si non recte possis quocunque modo rem," + + +my pen shrinks with abhorrence from the relation of the enormous +vengeance exercised by the court against its vassals, within the +comot of Caeo, in the Cantref Mawr. Near Dinevor, on the other side +of the river Tywy, in the Cantref Bychan, or the little cantred, +there is a spring which, like the tide, ebbs and flows twice in +twenty-four hours. {100} Not far to the north of Caermardyn, namely +at Pencadair, {101} that is, the head of the chair, when Rhys, the +son of Gruffydd, was more by stratagem than force compelled to +surrender, and was carried away into England, king Henry II. +despatched a knight, born in Britany, on whose wisdom and fidelity +he could rely, under the conduct of Guaidanus, dean of Cantref Mawr, +to explore the situation of Dinevor castle, and the strength of the +country. The priest, being desired to take the knight by the +easiest and best road to the castle, led him purposely aside by the +most difficult and inaccessible paths, and wherever they passed +through woods, the priest, to the general surprise of all present, +fed upon grass, asserting that, in times of need, the inhabitants of +that country were accustomed to live upon herbs and roots. The +knight returning to the king, and relating what had happened, +affirmed that the country was uninhabitable, vile, and inaccessible, +and only affording food to a beastly nation, living like brutes. At +length the king released Rhys, having first bound him to fealty by +solemn oaths and the delivery of hostages. + +On our journey from Caermardyn towards the Cistercian monastery +called Alba Domus, {102} the archbishop was informed of the murder +of a young Welshman, who was devoutly hastening to meet him; when +turning out of the road, he ordered the corpse to be covered with +the cloak of his almoner, and with a pious supplication commended +the soul of the murdered youth to heaven. Twelve archers of the +adjacent castle of St. Clare, {103} who had assassinated the young +man, were on the following day signed with the cross at Alba Domus, +as a punishment for their crime. Having traversed three rivers, the +Taf, then the Cleddeu, under Lanwadein, {104} and afterwards another +branch of the same river, we at length arrived at Haverford. This +province, from its situation between two rivers, has acquired the +name of Daugleddeu, {105} being enclosed and terminated, as it were, +by two swords, for cleddue, in the British language, signifies a +sword. + + + +CHAPTER XI + + + +Of Haverford and Ros + + +A sermon having been delivered at Haverford {106} by the archbishop, +and the word of God preached to the people by the archdeacon, whose +name appears on the title-page of this work, many soldiers and +plebeians were induced to take the cross. It appeared wonderful and +miraculous, that, although the archdeacon addressed them both in the +Latin and French tongues, those persons who understood neither of +those languages were equally affected, and flocked in great numbers +to the cross. + +An old woman of those parts, who for three preceding years had been +blind, having heard of the archbishop's arrival, sent her son to the +place where the sermon was to be preached, that he might bring back +to her some particle, if only of the fringe of his garment. The +young man being prevented by the crowd from approaching the +archbishop, waited till the assembly was dispersed, and then carried +a piece of the earth on which the preacher had stood. The mother +received the gift with great joy, and falling immediately on her +knees, applied the turf to her mouth and eyes; and thus, through the +merits of the holy man, and her own faith and devotion, recovered +the blessing of sight, which she had entirely lost. + +The inhabitants of this province derived their origin from Flanders, +and were sent by king Henry I. to inhabit these districts; a people +brave and robust, ever most hostile to the Welsh; a people, I say, +well versed in commerce and woollen manufactories; a people anxious +to seek gain by sea or land, in defiance of fatigue and danger; a +hardy race, equally fitted for the plough or the sword; a people +brave and happy, if Wales (as it ought to have been) had been dear +to its sovereign, and had not so frequently experienced the +vindictive resentment and ill-treatment of its governors. + +A circumstance happened in the castle of Haverford during our time, +which ought not to be omitted. A famous robber was fettered and +confined in one of its towers, and was often visited by three boys, +the son of the earl of Clare, and two others, one of whom was son of +the lord of the castle, and the other his grandson, sent thither for +their education, and who applied to him for arrows, with which he +used to supply them. One day, at the request of the children, the +robber, being brought from his dungeon, took advantage of the +absence of the gaoler, closed the door, and shut himself up with the +boys. A great clamour instantly arose, as well from the boys +within, as from the people without; nor did he cease, with an +uplifted axe, to threaten the lives of the children, until indemnity +and security were assured to him in the most ample manner. A +similar accident happened at Chateau-roux in France. The lord of +that place maintained in the castle a man whose eyes he had formerly +put out, but who, by long habit, recollected the ways of the castle, +and the steps leading to the towers. Seizing an opportunity of +revenge, and meditating the destruction of the youth, he fastened +the inward doors of the castle, and took the only son and heir of +the governor of the castle to the summit of a high tower, from +whence he was seen with the utmost concern by the people beneath. +The father of the boy hastened thither, and, struck with terror, +attempted by every possible means to procure the ransom of his son, +but received for answer, that this could not be effected, but by the +same mutilation of those lower parts, which he had likewise +inflicted on him. The father, having in vain entreated mercy, at +length assented, and caused a violent blow to be struck on his body; +and the people around him cried out lamentably, as if he had +suffered mutilation. The blind man asked him where he felt the +greatest pain? when he replied in his reins, he declared it was +false and prepared to precipitate the boy. A second blow was given, +and the lord of the castle asserting that the greatest pains were at +his heart, the blind man expressing his disbelief, again carried the +boy to the summit of the tower. The third time, however, the +father, to save his son, really mutilated himself; and when he +exclaimed that the greatest pain was in his teeth; "It is true," +said he, "as a man who has had experience should be believed, and +thou hast in part revenged my injuries. I shall meet death with +more satisfaction, and thou shalt neither beget any other son, nor +receive comfort from this." Then, precipitating himself and the boy +from the summit of the tower, their limbs were broken, and both +instantly expired. The knight ordered a monastery to be built on +the spot for the soul of the boy, which is still extant, and called +De Doloribus. + +It appears remarkable to me that the entire inheritance should +devolve on Richard, son of Tankard, governor of the aforesaid castle +of Haverford, being the youngest son, and having many brothers of +distinguished character who died before him. In like manner the +dominion of South Wales descended to Rhys son of Gruffyd, owing to +the death of several of his brothers. During the childhood of +Richard, a holy man, named Caradoc, led a pious and recluse life at +St. Ismael, in the province of Ros, {107} to whom the boy was often +sent by his parents with provisions, and he so ingratiated himself +in the eyes of the good man, that he very often promised him, +together with his blessing, the portion of all his brothers, and the +paternal inheritance. It happened that Richard, being overtaken by +a violent storm of rain, turned aside to the hermit's cell; and +being unable to get his hounds near him, either by calling, coaxing, +or by offering them food, the holy man smiled; and making a gentle +motion with his hand, brought them all to him immediately. In +process of time, when Caradoc {108} had happily completed the course +of his existence, Tankard, father of Richard, violently detained his +body, which by his last will he had bequeathed to the church of St. +David; but being suddenly seized with a severe illness, he revoked +his command. When this had happened to him a second and a third +time, and the corpse at last was suffered to be conveyed away, and +was proceeding over the sands of Niwegal towards St. David's, a +prodigious fall of rain inundated the whole country; but the +conductors of the sacred burthen, on coming forth from their +shelter, found the silken pall, with which the bier was covered, dry +and uninjured by the storm; and thus the miraculous body of Caradoc +was brought into the church of St. Andrew and St. David, and with +due solemnity deposited in the left aisle, near the altar of the +holy proto-martyr Stephen. + +It is worthy of remark, that these people (the Flemings), from the +inspection of the right shoulders of rams, which have been stripped +of their flesh, and not roasted, but boiled, can discover future +events, or those which have passed and remained long unknown. {109} +They know, also, what is transpiring at a distant place, by a +wonderful art, and a prophetic kind of spirit. They declare, also, +by means of signs, the undoubted symptoms of approaching peace and +war, murders and fires, domestic adulteries, the state of the king, +his life and death. It happened in our time, that a man of those +parts, whose name was William Mangunel, a person of high rank, and +excelling all others in the aforesaid art, had a wife big with child +by her own husband's grandson. Well aware of the fact, he ordered a +ram from his own flock to be sent to his wife, as a present from her +neighbour, which was carried to the cook, and dressed. At dinner, +the husband purposely gave the shoulder-bone of the ram, properly +cleaned, to his wife, who was also well skilled in this art, for her +examination; when, having for a short time examined the secret +marks, she smiled, and threw the oracle down on the table. Her +husband, dissembling, earnestly demanded the cause of her smiling, +and the explanation of the matter. Overcome by his entreaties, she +answered: "The man to whose fold this ram belongs, has an +adulterous wife, at this time pregnant by the commission of incest +with his own grandson." The husband, with a sorrowful and dejected +countenance, replied: "You deliver, indeed, an oracle supported by +too much truth, which I have so much more reason to lament, as the +ignominy you have published redounds to my own injury." The woman, +thus detected, and unable to dissemble her confusion, betrayed the +inward feelings of her mind by external signs; shame and sorrow +urging her by turns, and manifesting themselves, now by blushes, now +by paleness, and lastly (according to the custom of women), by +tears. The shoulder of a goat was also once brought to a certain +person, instead of a ram's - both being alike, when cleaned; who, +observing for a short time the lines and marks, exclaimed, "Unhappy +cattle, that never was multiplied! unhappy, likewise, the owner of +the cattle, who never had more than three or four in one flock!" +Many persons, a year and a half before the event, foresaw, by the +means of shoulder-bones, the destruction of their country, after the +decease of king Henry I., and, selling all their possessions, left +their homes, and escaped the impending ruin. + +It happened also in Flanders, from whence this people came, that a +certain man sent a similar bone to a neighbour for his inspection; +and the person who carried it, on passing over a ditch, broke wind, +and wished it in the nostrils of the man on whose account he was +thus troubled. The person to whom the bone was taken, on +examination, said, "May you have in your own nose, that which you +wished to be in mine." In our time, a soothsayer, on the inspection +of a bone, discovered not only a theft, and the manner of it, but +the thief himself, and all the attendant circumstances; he heard +also the striking of a bell, and the sound of a trumpet, as if those +things which were past were still performing. It is wonderful, +therefore, that these bones, like all unlawful conjurations, should +represent, by a counterfeit similitude to the eyes and ears, things +which are passed, as well as those which are now going on. + + + +CHAPTER XII + + + +Of Penbroch + + +The province of Penbroch adjoins the southern part of the territory +of Ros, and is separated from it by an arm of the sea. Its +principal city, and the metropolis of Demetia, is situated on an +oblong rocky eminence, extending with two branches from Milford +Haven, from whence it derived the name of Penbroch, which signifies +the head of the aestuary. Arnulph de Montgomery, {110} in the reign +of king Henry I., erected here a slender fortress with stakes and +turf, which, on returning to England, he consigned to the care of +Giraldus de Windesor, {111} his constable and lieutenant-general, a +worthy and discreet man. Immediately on the death of Rhys son of +Tewdwr, who a short time before had been slain by the treachery of +his own troops at Brecheinoc, leaving his son, Gruffydd, a child, +the inhabitants of South Wales besieged the castle. One night, when +fifteen soldiers had deserted, and endeavoured to escape from the +castle in a small boat, on the following morning Giraldus invested +their armour bearers with the arms and estates of their masters, and +decorated them with the military order. The garrison being, from +the length of the siege, reduced to the utmost want of provisions, +the constable, with great prudence and flattering hopes of success, +caused four hogs, which yet remained, to be cut into small pieces +and thrown down to the enemy from the fortifications. The next day, +having again recourse to a more refined stratagem, he contrived that +a letter, sealed with his own signet, should be found before the +house of Wilfred, {112} bishop of St. David's, who was then by +chance in that neighbourhood, as if accidentally dropped, stating +that there would be no necessity of soliciting the assistance of +earl Arnulph for the next four months to come. The contents of +these letters being made known to the army, the troops abandoned the +siege of the castle, and retired to their own homes. Giraldus, in +order to make himself and his dependants more secure, married Nest, +the sister of Gruffydd, prince of South Wales, by whom he had an +illustrious progeny of both sexes; and by whose means both the +maritime parts of South Wales were retained by the English, and the +walls of Ireland afterwards stormed, as our Vaticinal History +declares. + +In our time, a person residing at the castle of Penbroch, found a +brood of young weasels concealed within a fleece in his dwelling +house, which he carefully removed and hid. The mother, irritated at +the loss of her young, which she had searched for in vain, went to a +vessel of milk that had been set aside for the use of the master's +son, and raising herself up, polluted it with her deadly poison; +thus revenging, as it were, the loss of her young, by the +destruction of the child. The man, observing what passed, carried +the fleece back to its former place; when the weasel, agitated by +maternal solicitude, between hope and fear, on finding again her +young, began to testify her joy by her cries and actions, and +returning quickly to the vessel, overthrew it; thus, in gratitude +for the recovery of her own offspring, saving that of her host from +danger. + +In another place, an animal of the same species had brought out her +young into a plain for the enjoyment of the sun and air; when an +insidious kite carried off one of them. Concealing herself with the +remainder behind some shrubs, grief suggested to her a stratagem of +exquisite revenge; she extended herself on a heap of earth, as if +dead, within sight of the plunderer, and (as success always +increases avidity) the bird immediately seized her and flew away, +but soon fell down dead by the bite of the poisonous animal. + +The castle called Maenor Pyrr, {113} that is, the mansion of Pyrrus, +who also possessed the island of Chaldey, which the Welsh call Inys +Pyrr, or the island of Pyrrus, is distant about three miles from +Penbroch. It is excellently well defended by turrets and bulwarks, +and is situated on the summit of a hill extending on the western +side towards the sea-port, having on the northern and southern sides +a fine fish-pond under its walls, as conspicuous for its grand +appearance, as for the depth of its waters, and a beautiful orchard +on the same side, inclosed on one part by a vineyard, and on the +other by a wood, remarkable for the projection of its rocks, and the +height of its hazel trees. On the right hand of the promontory, +between the castle and the church, near the site of a very large +lake and mill, a rivulet of never-failing water flows through a +valley, rendered sandy by the violence of the winds. Towards the +west, the Severn sea, bending its course to Ireland, enters a hollow +bay at some distance from the castle; and the southern rocks, if +extended a little further towards the north, would render it a most +excellent harbour for shipping. From this point of sight, you will +see almost all the ships from Great Britain, which the east wind +drives upon the Irish coast, daringly brave the inconstant waves and +raging sea. This country is well supplied with corn, sea-fish, and +imported wines; and what is preferable to every other advantage, +from its vicinity to Ireland, it is tempered by a salubrious air. +Demetia, therefore, with its seven cantreds, is the most beautiful, +as well as the most powerful district of Wales; Penbroch, the finest +part of the province of Demetia; and the place I have just +described, the most delightful part of Penbroch. It is evident, +therefore, that Maenor Pirr is the pleasantest spot in Wales; and +the author may be pardoned for having thus extolled his native soil, +his genial territory, with a profusion of praise and admiration. + +In this part of Penbroch, unclean spirits have conversed, nor +visibly, but sensibly, with mankind; first in the house of Stephen +Wiriet, {114} and afterwards in the house of William Not; {115} +manifesting their presence by throwing dirt at them, and more with a +view of mockery than of injury. In the house of William, they cut +holes in the linen and woollen garments, much to the loss of the +owner of the house and his guests; nor could any precaution, or even +bolts, secure them from these inconveniences. In the house of +Stephen, the spirit in a more extraordinary manner conversed with +men, and, in reply to their taunts, upbraided them openly with +everything they had done from their birth, and which they were not +willing should be known or heard by others. I do not presume to +assign the cause of this event, except that it is said to be the +presage of a sudden change from poverty to riches, or rather from +affluence to poverty and distress; as it was found to be the case in +both these instances. And it appears to me very extraordinary that +these places could not be purified from such illusions, either by +the sprinkling of holy water, or the assistance of any other +religious ceremony; for the priests themselves, though protected by +the crucifix, or the holy water, on devoutly entering the house, +were equally subject to the same insults. From whence it appears +that things pertaining to the sacraments, as well as the sacraments +themselves, defend us from hurtful, but not from harmless things; +from annoyances, but not from illusions. It is worthy of note, that +in our time, a woman in Poitou was possessed by a demon, who, +through her mouth, artfully and acutely disputed with the learned. +He sometimes upbraided people with their secret actions, and those +things which they wished not to hear; but when either the books of +the gospel, or the relics of saints, were placed upon the mouth of +the possessed, he fled to the lower part of her throat; and when +they were removed thither, he descended into her belly. His +appearance was indicated by certain inflations and convulsions of +the parts which he possessed, and when the relics were again placed +in the lower parts, he directly returned to the upper. At length, +when they brought the body of Christ, and gave it to the patient, +the demon answered, "Ye fools, you are doing nothing, for what you +give her is not the food of the body, but of the soul; and my power +is confined to the body, not to the soul." But when those persons +whom he had upbraided with their more serious actions, had +confessed, and returned from penance, he reproached them no more. +"I have known, indeed," says he, "I have known but now I know not, +(he spake this as it were a reproach to others), and I hold my +tongue, for what I know, I know not." From which it appears, that +after confession and penance, the demons either do not know the sins +of men, or do not know them to their injury and disgrace; because, +as Augustine says, "If man conceals, God discovers; if man +discovers, God conceals." + +Some people are surprised that lightning often strikes our places of +worship, and damages the crosses and images of him who was +crucified, before the eyes of one who seeth all things, and permits +these circumstances to happen; to whom I shall only answer with +Ovid, + + +"Summa petit livor, perflant altissima venti, +Summa petunt dextra fulmina missa Jovis." + + +On the same subject, Peter Abelard, in the presence of Philip king +of France, is said to have answered a Jew, who urged these and +similar things against the faith. "It is true that the lightning +descending from on high, directs itself most commonly to the highest +object on earth, and to those most resembling its own nature; it +never, therefore, injures your synagogues, because no man ever saw +or heard of its falling upon a privy." An event worthy of note, +happened in our time in France. During a contention between some +monks of the Cistercian order, and a certain knight, about the +limits of their fields and lands, a violent tempest, in one night, +utterly destroyed and ruined the cultivated grounds of the monks, +while the adjoining territory of the knight remained undamaged. On +which occasion he insolently inveighed against the fraternity, and +publicly asserted that divine vengeance had thus punished them for +unlawfully keeping possession of his land; to which the abbot +wittily replied, "It is by no means so; but that the knight had more +friends in that riding than the monastery;" and he clearly +demonstrated that, on the other hand, the monks had more enemies in +it. + +In the province of Penbroch, another instance occurred, about the +same time, of a spirit's appearing in the house of Elidore de +Stakepole, {116} not only sensibly, but visibly, under the form of a +red-haired young man, who called himself Simon. First seizing the +keys from the person to whom they were entrusted, he impudently +assumed the steward's office, which he managed so prudently and +providently, that all things seemed to abound under his care, and +there was no deficiency in the house. Whatever the master or +mistress secretly thought of having for their daily use or +provision, he procured with wonderful agility, and without any +previous directions, saying, "You wished that to be done, and it +shall be done for you." He was also well acquainted with their +treasures and secret hoards, and sometimes upbraided them on that +account; for as often as they seemed to act sparingly and +avariciously, he used to say, "Why are you afraid to spend that heap +of gold or silver, since your lives are of so short duration, and +the money you so cautiously hoard up will never do you any service?" +He gave the choicest meat and drink to the rustics and hired +servants, saying that "Those persons should be abundantly supplied, +by whose labours they were acquired." Whatever he determined should +be done, whether pleasing or displeasing to his master or mistress +(for, as we have said before, he knew all their secrets), he +completed in his usual expeditious manner, without their consent. +He never went to church, or uttered one Catholic word. He did not +sleep in the house, but was ready at his office in the morning. + +He was at length observed by some of the family to hold his nightly +converse near a mill and a pool of water; upon which discovery he +was summoned the next morning before the master of the house and his +lady, and, receiving his discharge, delivered up the keys, which he +had held for upwards of forty days. Being earnestly interrogated, +at his departure, who he was? he answered, "That he was begotten +upon the wife of a rustic in that parish, by a demon, in the shape +of her husband," naming the man, and his father-in-law, then dead, +and his mother, still alive; the truth of which the woman, upon +examination, openly avowed. A similar circumstance happened in our +time in Denmark. A certain unknown priest paid court to the +archbishop, and, from his obsequious behaviour and discreet conduct, +his general knowledge of letters and quick memory, soon contracted a +great familiarity with him. Conversing one day with the archbishop +about ancient histories and unknown events, on which topic he most +frequently heard him with pleasure, it happened that when the +subject of their discourse was the incarnation of our Lord, he said, +amongst other things, "Before Christ assumed human nature, the +demons had great power over mankind, which, at his coming, was much +diminished; insomuch that they were dispersed on every side, and +fled from his presence. Some precipitated themselves into the sea, +others into the hollow parts of trees, or the clefts of rocks; and I +myself leaped into a well;" on which he blushed for shame, and took +his departure. The archbishop, and those who were with him, being +greatly astonished at that speech, began to ask questions by turns, +and form conjectures; and having waited some time (for he was +expected to return soon), the archbishop ordered some of his +attendants to call him, but he was sought for in vain, and never re- +appeared. Soon afterwards, two priests, whom the archbishop had +sent to Rome, returned; and when this event was related to them, +they began to inquire the day and hour on which the circumstance had +happened? On being told it, they declared that on the very same day +and hour he had met them on the Alps, saying, that he had been sent +to the court of Rome, on account of some business of his master's +(meaning the archbishop), which had lately occurred. And thus it +was proved, that a demon had deluded them under a human form. + +I ought not to omit mentioning the falcons of these parts, which are +large, and of a generous kind, and exercise a most severe tyranny +over the river and land birds. King Henry II. remained here some +time, making preparations for his voyage to Ireland; and being +desirous of taking the diversion of hawking, he accidentally saw a +noble falcon perched upon a rock. Going sideways round him, he let +loose a fine Norway hawk, which he carried on his left hand. The +falcon, though at first slower in its flight, soaring up to a great +height, burning with resentment, and in his turn becoming the +aggressor, rushed down upon his adversary with the greatest +impetuosity, and by a violent blow struck the hawk dead at the feet +of the king. From that time the king sent every year, about the +breeding season, for the falcons {117} of this country, which are +produced on the sea cliffs; nor can better be found in any part of +his dominions. But let us now return to our Itinerary. + + + +CHAPTER XIII + + + +Of the progress by Camros and Niwegal + + +From Haverford we proceeded on our journey to Menevia, distant from +thence about twelve miles, and passed through Camros, {118} where, +in the reign of king Stephen, the relations and friends of a +distinguished young man, Giraldus, son of William, revenged his +death by a too severe retaliation on the men of Ros. We then passed +over Niwegal sands, at which place (during the winter that king +Henry II. spent in Ireland), as well as in almost all the other +western ports, a very remarkable circumstance occurred. The sandy +shores of South Wales, being laid bare by the extraordinary violence +of a storm, the surface of the earth, which had been covered for +many ages, re-appeared, and discovered the trunks of trees cut off, +standing in the very sea itself, the strokes of the hatchet +appearing as if made only yesterday. {119} The soil was very black, +and the wood like ebony. By a wonderful revolution, the road for +ships became impassable, and looked, not like a shore, but like a +grove cut down, perhaps, at the time of the deluge, or not long +after, but certainly in very remote ages, being by degrees consumed +and swallowed up by the violence and encroachments of the sea. +During the same tempest many sea fish were driven, by the violence +of the wind and waves, upon dry land. We were well lodged at St. +David's by Peter, bishop of the see, a liberal man, who had hitherto +accompanied us during the whole of our journey. + + + + +BOOK II + + + + +PREFACE + + + +Since, therefore, St. David's is the head, and in times past was the +metropolitan, city of Wales, though now, alas! retaining more of the +NAME than of the OMEN, {120} yet I have not forborne to weep over +the obsequies of our ancient and undoubted mother, to follow the +mournful hearse, and to deplore with tearful sighs the ashes of our +half-buried matron. I shall, therefore, endeavour briefly to +declare to you in what manner, from whence, and from what period the +pall was first brought to St. David's, and how it was taken away; +how many prelates were invested with the pall; and how many were +despoiled thereof; together with their respective names to this +present day. + + + +CHAPTER I + + + +Of the see of Saint David's + + +We are informed by the British histories, that Dubricius, archbishop +of Caerleon, sensible of the infirmities of age, or rather being +desirous of leading a life of contemplation, resigned his honours to +David, who is said to have been uncle to king Arthur; and by his +interest the see was translated to Menevia, although Caerleon, as we +have observed in the first book, was much better adapted for the +episcopal see. For Menevia is situated in a most remote corner of +land upon the Irish ocean, the soil stony and barren, neither +clothed with woods, distinguished by rivers, nor adorned by meadows, +ever exposed to the winds and tempests, and continually subject to +the hostile attacks of the Flemings on one side, and of the Welsh on +the other. For the holy men who settled here, chose purposely such +a retired habitation, that by avoiding the noise of the world, and +preferring an heremitical to a pastoral life, they might more freely +provide for "that part which shall not be taken away;" for David was +remarkable for his sanctity and religion, as the history of his life +will testify. Amongst the many miracles recorded of him, three +appear to me the most worthy of admiration: his origin and +conception; his pre-election thirty years before his birth; and what +exceeds all, the sudden rising of the ground, at Brevy, under his +feet while preaching, to the great astonishment of all the +beholders. + +Since the time of David, twenty-five archbishops presided over the +see of Menevia, whose names are here subjoined: David, Cenauc, +Eliud, who was also called Teilaus, Ceneu, Morwal, Haerunen, Elwaed, +Gurnuen, Lendivord, Gorwysc, Cogan, Cledauc, Anian, Euloed, +Ethelmen, Elauc, Malscoed, Sadermen, Catellus, Sulhaithnai, Nonis, +Etwal, Asser, Arthuael, Sampson. In the time of Sampson, the pall +was translated from Menevia in the following manner: a disorder +called the yellow plague, and by the physicians the icteric passion, +of which the people died in great numbers, raged throughout Wales, +at the time when Sampson held the archiepiscopal see. Though a holy +man, and fearless of death, he was prevailed upon, by the earnest +intreaties of his people, to go on board a vessel, which was wafted, +by a south wind, to Britannia Armorica, {121} where he and his +attendants were safely landed. The see of Dol being at that time +vacant, he was immediately elected bishop. Hence it came to pass, +that on account of the pall which Sampson had brought thither with +him, the succeeding bishops, even to our times, always retained it. +But during the presidency of the archbishop of Tours, this +adventitious dignity ceased; yet our countrymen, through indolence +or poverty, or rather owing to the arrival of the English into the +island, and the frequent hostilities committed against them by the +Saxons, lost their archiepiscopal honours. But until the entire +subjugation of Wales by king Henry I., the Welsh bishops were always +consecrated by the bishop of St. David's; and he was consecrated by +his suffragans, without any profession or submission being made to +any other church. + +From the time of Sampson to that of king Henry I., nineteen bishops +presided over this see: Ruelin, Rodherch, Elguin, Lunuerd, Nergu, +Sulhidir, Eneuris, Morgeneu, who was the first bishop of St. David's +who ate flesh, and was there killed by pirates; and he appeared to a +certain bishop in Ireland on the night of his death, shewing his +wounds, and saying, "Because I ate flesh, I am become flesh." +Nathan, Ievan (who was bishop only one night), Argustel, Morgenueth, +Ervin, Tramerin, Joseph, Bleithud, Sulghein, Abraham, Wilfred. +Since the subjugation of Wales to the present time, three only have +held the see: in the reign of king Henry I., Bernard; in the reign +of king Stephen, David II.; and in the reign of king Henry II., +Peter, a monk of the order of Cluny; who all, by the king's mandate, +were consecrated at Canterbury; as also Geoffrey, prior and canon of +Lanthoni, who succeeded them in the reign of king John, and was +preferred to this see by the interest of Hubert, archbishop of +Canterbury, and afterwards consecrated by him. We do not hear that +either before or after that subjugation, any archbishop of +Canterbury ever entered the borders of Wales, except Baldwin, a monk +of the Cistercian order, abbot of Ford, and afterwards bishop of +Worcester, who traversed that rough, inaccessible, and remote +country with a laudable devotion for the service of the cross; and +as a token of investiture, celebrated mass in all the cathedral +churches. So that till lately the see of St. David's owed no +subjection to that of Canterbury, as may be seen in the English +History of Bede, who says that "Augustine, bishop of the Angles, +after the conversion of king Ethelfred and the English people, +called together the bishops of Wales on the confines of the West +Saxons, as legate of the apostolic see. When the seven bishops +{122} appeared, Augustine, sitting in his chair, with Roman pride, +did not rise up at their entrance. Observing his haughtiness (after +the example of a holy anchorite of their nation), they immediately +returned, and treated him and his statutes with contempt, publicly +proclaiming that they would not acknowledge him for their +archbishop; alleging, that if he now refused to rise up to us, how +much more will he hold us in contempt, if we submit to be subject to +him?" That there were at that time seven bishops in Wales, and now +only four, may be thus accounted for; because perhaps there were +formerly more cathedral churches in Wales than there are at present, +or the extent of Wales might have been greater. Amongst so many +bishops thus deprived of their dignity, Bernard, the first French +[i.e. Norman] bishop of St. David's, alone defended the rights of +his church in a public manner; and after many expensive and +vexatious appeals to the court of Rome, would not have reclaimed +them in vain, if false witnesses had not publicly appeared at the +council of Rheims, before pope Eugenius, and testified that he had +made profession and submission to the see of Canterbury. Supported +by three auxiliaries, the favour and intimacy of king Henry, a time +of peace, and consequent plenty, he boldly hazarded the trial of so +great a cause, and so confident was he of his just right, that he +sometimes caused the cross to be carried before him during his +journey through Wales. + +Bernard, however commendable in some particulars, was remarkable for +his insufferable pride and ambition. For as soon as he became +courtier and a creature of the king's, panting after English riches +by means of translation, (a malady under which all the English sent +hither seem to labour), he alienated many of the lands of his church +without either advantage or profit, and disposed of others so +indiscreetly and improvidently, that when ten carucates {123} of +land were required for military purposes, he would, with a liberal +hand, give twenty or thirty; and of the canonical rites and +ordinances which he had miserably and unhappily instituted at St. +David's, he would hardly make use of one, at most only of two or +three. With respect to the two sees of Canterbury and St. David's, +I will briefly explain my opinion of their present state. On one +side, you will see royal favour, affluence of riches, numerous and +opulent suffragan bishops, great abundance of learned men and well +skilled in the laws; on the other side, a deficiency of all these +things, and a total want of justice; on which account the recovery +of its ancient rights will not easily be effected, but by means of +those great changes and vicissitudes which kingdoms experience from +various and unexpected events. + +The spot where the church of St. David's stands, and was founded in +honour of the apostle St. Andrew, is called the Vale of Roses; which +ought rather to be named the vale of marble, since it abounds with +one, and by no means with the other. The river Alun, a muddy and +unproductive rivulet, {124} bounding the churchyard on the northern +side, flows under a marble stone, called Lechlavar, which has been +polished by continual treading of passengers, and concerning the +name, size, and quality of which we have treated in our Vaticinal +History. {125} Henry II., on his return from Ireland, is said to +have passed over this stone, before he devoutly entered the church +of St. Andrew and St. David. Having left the following garrisons in +Ireland, namely, Hugh de Lacy (to whom he had given Meath in fee) in +Dublin, with twenty knights; Fitz-Stephen and Maurice Fitzgerald, +with other twenty; Humphrey de Bohun, Robert Fitz-Bernard, and Hugh +de Grainville at Waterford, with forty; and William Fitz-Adelm and +Philip de Braose at Wexford, with twenty; on the second day of +Easter, the king embarked at sunrise on board a vessel in the +outward port of Wexford, and, with a south wind, landed about noon +in the harbour of Menevia. Proceeding towards the shrine of St. +David, habited like a pilgrim, and leaning on a staff, he met at the +white gate a procession of the canons of the church coming forth to +receive him with due honour and reverence. As the procession +solemnly moved along, a Welsh woman threw herself at the king's +feet, and made a complaint against the bishop of the place, which +was explained to the king by an interpreter. The woman, immediate +attention not being paid to her petition, with violent +gesticulation, and a loud and impertinent voice, exclaimed +repeatedly, "Revenge us this day, Lechlavar! revenge us and the +nation in this man!" On being chidden and driven away by those who +understood the British language, she more vehemently and forcibly +vociferated in the like manner, alluding to the vulgar fiction and +proverb of Merlin, "That a king of England, and conqueror of +Ireland, should be wounded in that country by a man with a red hand, +and die upon Lechlavar, on his return through Menevia." This was +the name of that stone which serves as a bridge over the river Alun, +which divides the cemetery from the northern side of the church. It +was a beautiful piece of marble, polished by the feet of passengers, +ten feet in length, six in breadth, and one in thickness. Lechlavar +signifies in the British language a talking stone. {126} There was +an ancient tradition respecting this stone, that at a time when a +corpse was carried over it for interment, it broke forth into +speech, and by the effort cracked in the middle, which fissure is +still visible; and on account of this barbarous and ancient +superstition, the corpses are no longer brought over it. The king, +who had heard the prophecy, approaching the stone, stopped for a +short time at the foot of it, and, looking earnestly at it, boldly +passed over; then, turning round, and looking towards the stone, +thus indignantly inveighed against the prophet: "Who will hereafter +give credit to the lying Merlin?" A person standing by, and +observing what had passed, in order to vindicate the injury done to +the prophet, replied, with a loud voice, "Thou art not that king by +whom Ireland is to be conquered, or of whom Merlin prophesied!" The +king then entering the church founded in honour of St. Andrew and +St. David, devoutly offered up his prayers, and heard mass performed +by a chaplain, whom alone, out of so large a body of priests, +Providence seems to have kept fasting till that hour, for this very +purpose. Having supped at St. David's, the king departed for the +castle of Haverford, distant about twelve miles. It appears very +remarkable to me, that in our days, when David II. presided over the +see, the river should have flowed with wine, and that the spring, +called Pistyll Dewi, or the PIPE of David, from its flowing through +a pipe into the eastern side of the churchyard, should have run with +milk. The birds also of that place, called jackdaws, from being so +long unmolested by the clergy of the church, were grown so tame and +domesticated, as not to be afraid of persons dressed in black. In +clear weather the mountains of Ireland are visible from hence, and +the passage over the Irish sea may be performed in one short day; on +which account William, the son of William the Bastard, and the +second of the Norman kings in England, who was called Rufus, and who +had penetrated far into Wales, on seeing Ireland from these rocks, +is reported to have said, "I will summon hither all the ships of my +realm, and with them make a bridge to attack that country." Which +speech being related to Murchard, prince of Leinster, he paused +awhile, and answered, "Did the king add to this mighty threat, If +God please?" and being informed that he had made no mention of God +in his speech, rejoicing in such a prognostic, he replied, "Since +that man trusts in human, not divine power, I fear not his coming." + + + +CHAPTER II + + + +Of the journey by Cemmeis - the monastery of St. Dogmael + + +The archbishop having celebrated mass early in the morning before +the high altar of the church of St. David, and enjoined to the +archdeacon (Giraldus) the office of preaching to the people, +hastened through Cemmeis {127} to meet prince Rhys at Aberteive. +{128} Two circumstances occurred in the province of Cemmeis, the +one in our own time, the other a little before, which I think right +not to pass over in silence. In our time, a young man, native of +this country, during a severe illness, suffered as violent a +persecution from toads, {129} as if the reptiles of the whole +province had come to him by agreement; and though destroyed by his +nurses and friends, they increased again on all sides in infinite +numbers, like hydras' heads. His attendants, both friends and +strangers, being wearied out, he was drawn up in a kind of bag, into +a high tree, stripped of its leaves, and shred; nor was he there +secure from his venomous enemies, for they crept up the tree in +great numbers, and consumed him even to the very bones. The young +man's name was Sisillus Esceir-hir, that is, Sisillus Long Leg. It +is also recorded that by the hidden but never unjust will of God, +another man suffered a similar persecution from rats. In the same +province, during the reign of king Henry I., a rich man, who had a +residence on the northern side of the Preseleu mountains, {130} was +warned for three successive nights, by dreams, that if he put his +hand under a stone which hung over the spring of a neighbouring +well, called the fountain of St. Bernacus, {131} he would find there +a golden torques. Obeying the admonition on the third day, he +received, from a viper, a deadly wound in his finger; but as it +appears that many treasures have been discovered through dreams, it +seems to me probable that, with respect to rumours, in the same +manner as to dreams, some ought, and some ought not, to be believed. + +I shall not pass over in silence the circumstance which occurred in +the principal castle of Cemmeis at Lanhever, {132} in our days. +Rhys, son of Gruffydd, by the instigation of his son Gruffydd, a +cunning and artful man, took away by force, from William, son of +Martin (de Tours), his son-in-law, the castle of Lanhever, +notwithstanding he had solemnly sworn, by the most precious relics, +that his indemnity and security should be faithfully maintained, +and, contrary to his word and oath, gave it to his son Gruffydd; but +since "A sordid prey has not a good ending," the Lord, who by the +mouth of his prophet, exclaims "Vengeance is mine, and I will +repay!" ordained that the castle should be taken away from the +contriver of this wicked plot, Gruffydd, and bestowed upon the man +in the world he most hated, his brother Malgon. Rhys, also, about +two years afterwards, intending to disinherit his own daughter, and +two granddaughters and grandsons, by a singular instance of divine +vengeance, was taken prisoner by his sons in battle, and confined in +this same castle; thus justly suffering the greatest disgrace and +confusion in the very place where he had perpetrated an act of the +most consummate baseness. I think it also worthy to be remembered, +that at the time this misfortune befell him, he had concealed in his +possession, at Dinevor, the collar of St. Canauc of Brecknock, for +which, by divine vengeance, he merited to be taken prisoner and +confined. + +We slept that night in the monastery of St. Dogmael, where, as well +as on the next day at Aberteivi, we were handsomely entertained by +prince Rhys. On the Cemmeis side of the river, not far from the +bridge, the people of the neighbourhood being assembled together, +and Rhys and his two sons, Malgon and Gruffydd, being present, the +word of the Lord was persuasively preached both by the archbishop +and the archdeacon, and many were induced to take the cross; one of +whom was an only son, and the sole comfort of his mother, far +advanced in years, who, steadfastly gazing on him, as if inspired by +the Deity, uttered these words:- "O, most beloved Lord Jesus Christ, +I return thee hearty thanks for having conferred on me the blessing +of bringing forth a son, whom thou mayest think worthy of thy +service." Another woman at Aberteivi, of a very different way of +thinking, held her husband fast by his cloak and girdle, and +publicly and audaciously prevented him from going to the archbishop +to take the cross; but, three nights afterwards, she heard a +terrible voice, saying, "Thou hast taken away my servant from me, +therefore what thou most lovest shall be taken away from thee." On +her relating this vision to her husband, they were struck with +mutual terror and amazement; and on falling asleep again, she +unhappily overlaid her little boy, whom, with more affection than +prudence, she had taken to bed with her. The husband, relating to +the bishop of the diocese both the vision and its fatal prediction, +took the cross, which his wife spontaneously sewed on her husband's +arm. + +Near the head of the bridge where the sermons were delivered, the +people immediately marked out the site for a chapel, {133} on a +verdant plain, as a memorial of so great an event; intending that +the altar should be placed on the spot where the archbishop stood +while addressing the multitude; and it is well known that many +miracles (the enumeration of which would be too tedious to relate) +were performed on the crowds of sick people who resorted hither from +different parts of the country. + + + +CHAPTER III + + + +Of the river Teivi, Cardigan, and Emelyn + + +The noble river Teivi flows here, and abounds with the finest +salmon, more than any other river of Wales; it has a productive +fishery near Cilgerran, which is situated on the summit of a rock, +at a place called Canarch Mawr, {134} the ancient residence of St. +Ludoc, where the river, falling from a great height, forms a +cataract, which the salmon ascend, by leaping from the bottom to the +top of a rock, which is about the height of the longest spear, and +would appear wonderful, were it not the nature of that species of +fish to leap: hence they have received the name of salmon, from +salio. Their particular manner of leaping (as I have specified in +my Topography of Ireland) is thus: fish of this kind, naturally +swimming against the course of the river (for as birds fly against +the wind, so do fish swim against the stream), on meeting with any +sudden obstacle, bend their tail towards their mouth, and sometimes, +in order to give a greater power to their leap, they press it with +their mouth, and suddenly freeing themselves from this circular +form, they spring with great force (like a bow let loose) from the +bottom to the top of the leap, to the great astonishment of the +beholders. The church dedicated to St. Ludoc, {135} the mill, +bridge, salmon leap, an orchard with a delightful garden, all stand +together on a small plot of ground. The Teivi has another singular +particularity, being the only river in Wales, or even in England, +which has beavers; {136} in Scotland they are said to be found in +one river, but are very scarce. I think it not a useless labour, to +insert a few remarks respecting the nature of these animals - the +manner in which they bring their materials from the woods to the +water, and with what skill they connect them in the construction of +their dwellings in the midst of rivers; their means of defence on +the eastern and western sides against hunters; and also concerning +their fish-like tails. + +The beavers, in order to construct their castles in the middle of +rivers, make use of the animals of their own species instead of +carts, who, by a wonderful mode of carnage, convey the timber from +the woods to the rivers. Some of them, obeying the dictates of +nature, receive on their bellies the logs of wood cut off by their +associates, which they hold tight with their feet, and thus with +transverse pieces placed in their mouths, are drawn along backwards, +with their cargo, by other beavers, who fasten themselves with their +teeth to the raft. The moles use a similar artifice in clearing out +the dirt from the cavities they form by scraping. In some deep and +still corner of the river, the beavers use such skill in the +construction of their habitations, that not a drop of water can +penetrate, or the force of storms shake them; nor do they fear any +violence but that of mankind, nor even that, unless well armed. +They entwine the branches of willows with other wood, and different +kinds of leaves, to the usual height of the water, and having made +within-side a communication from floor to floor, they elevate a kind +of stage, or scaffold, from which they may observe and watch the +rising of the waters. In the course of time, their habitations bear +the appearance of a grove of willow trees, rude and natural without, +but artfully constructed within. This animal can remain in or under +water at its pleasure, like the frog or seal, who shew, by the +smoothness or roughness of their skins, the flux and reflux of the +sea. These three animals, therefore, live indifferently under the +water, or in the air, and have short legs, broad bodies, stubbed +tails, and resemble the mole in their corporal shape. It is worthy +of remark, that the beaver has but four teeth, two above, and two +below, which being broad and sharp, cut like a carpenter's axe, and +as such he uses them. They make excavations and dry hiding places +in the banks near their dwellings, and when they hear the stroke of +the hunter, who with sharp poles endeavours to penetrate them, they +fly as soon as possible to the defence of their castle, having first +blown out the water from the entrance of the hole, and rendered it +foul and muddy by scraping the earth, in order thus artfully to +elude the stratagems of the well-armed hunter, who is watching them +from the opposite banks of the river. When the beaver finds he +cannot save himself from the pursuit of the dogs who follow him, +that he may ransom his body by the sacrifice of a part, he throws +away that, which by natural instinct he knows to be the object +sought for, and in the sight of the hunter castrates himself, from +which circumstance he has gained the name of Castor; and if by +chance the dogs should chase an animal which had been previously +castrated, he has the sagacity to run to an elevated spot, and there +lifting up his leg, shews the hunter that the object of his pursuit +is gone. Cicero speaking of them says, "They ransom themselves by +that part of the body, for which they are chiefly sought." And +Juvenal says, + + +" - Qui se +Eunuchum ipse facit, cupiens evadere damno +Testiculi." + + +And St. Bernard, + + +"Prodit enim castor proprio de corpore velox +Reddere quas sequitur hostis avarus opes." + + +Thus, therefore, in order to preserve his skin, which is sought +after in the west, and the medicinal part of his body, which is +coveted in the east, although he cannot save himself entirely, yet, +by a wonderful instinct and sagacity, he endeavours to avoid the +stratagems of his pursuers. The beavers have broad, short tails, +thick, like the palm of a hand, which they use as a rudder in +swimming; and although the rest of their body is hairy, this part, +like that of seals, is without hair, and smooth; upon which account, +in Germany and the arctic regions, where beavers abound, great and +religious persons, in times of fasting, eat the tails of this fish- +like animal, as having both the taste and colour of fish. + +We proceeded on our journey from Cilgerran towards Pont-Stephen, +{137} leaving Cruc Mawr, i.e. the great hill, near Aberteivi, on our +left hand. On this spot Gruffydd, son of Rhys ap Tewdwr, soon after +the death of king Henry I., by a furious onset gained a signal +victory against the English army, which, by the murder of the +illustrious Richard de Clare, near Abergevenny (before related), had +lost its leader and chief. {138} A tumulus is to be seen on the +summit of the aforesaid hill, and the inhabitants affirm that it +will adapt itself to persons of all stature and that if any armour +is left there entire in the evening, it will be found, according to +vulgar tradition, broken to pieces in the morning. + + + +CHAPTER IV + + + +Of the journey by Pont Stephen, the abbey of Stratflur, Landewi +Brevi, and Lhanpadarn Vawr + + +A sermon having been preached on the following morning at Pont +Stephen, {139} by the archbishop and archdeacon, and also by two +abbots of the Cistercian order, John of Albadomus, and Sisillus of +Stratflur, {140} who faithfully attended us in those parts, and as +far as North Wales, many persons were induced to take the cross. We +proceeded to Stratflur, where we passed the night. On the following +morning, having on our right the lofty mountains of Moruge, which in +Welsh are called Ellennith, {141} we were met near the side of a +wood by Cyneuric son of Rhys, accompanied by a body of light-armed +youths. This young man was of a fair complexion, with curled hair, +tall and handsome; clothed only, according to the custom of his +country, with a thin cloak and inner garment, his legs and feet, +regardless of thorns and thistles were left bare; a man, not adorned +by art, but nature; bearing in his presence an innate, not an +acquired, dignity of manners. A sermon having been preached to +these three young men, Gruffydd, Malgon, and Cyneuric, in the +presence of their father, prince Rhys, and the brothers disputing +about taking the cross, at length Malgon strictly promised that he +would accompany the archbishop to the king's court, and would obey +the king's and archbishop's counsel, unless prevented by them. From +thence we passed through Landewi Brevi, {142} that is, the church of +David of Brevi, situated on the summit of that hill which had +formerly risen up under his feet whilst preaching, during the period +of that celebrated synod, when all the bishops, abbots, and clergy +of Wales, and many other persons, were collected thither on account +of the Pelagian heresy, which, although formerly exploded from +Britain by Germanus, bishop of Auxerre, had lately been revived in +these parts. At this place David was reluctantly raised to the +archbishopric, by the unanimous consent and election of the whole +assembly, who by loud acclamations testified their admiration of so +great a miracle. Dubricius had a short time before resigned to him +this honour in due form at Caerleon, from which city the +metropolitan see was transferred to St. David's. + +Having rested that night at Lhanpadarn Vawr, {143} or the church of +Paternus the Great, we attracted many persons to the service of +Christ on the following morning. It is remarkable that this church, +like many others in Wales and Ireland, has a lay abbot; for a bad +custom has prevailed amongst the clergy, of appointing the most +powerful people of a parish stewards, or, rather, patrons, of their +churches; who, in process of time, from a desire of gain, have +usurped the whole right, appropriating to their own use the +possession of all the lands, leaving only to the clergy the altars, +with their tenths and oblations, and assigning even these to their +sons and relations in the church. Such defenders, or rather +destroyers, of the church, have caused themselves to be called +abbots, and presumed to attribute to themselves a title, as well as +estates, to which they have no just claim. In this state we found +the church of Lhanpadarn, without a head. A certain old man, waxen +old in iniquity (whose name was Eden Oen, son of Gwaithwoed), being +abbot, and his sons officiating at the altar. But in the reign of +king Henry I., when the authority of the English prevailed in Wales, +the monastery of St. Peter at Gloucester held quiet possession of +this church; but after his death, the English being driven out, the +monks were expelled from their cloisters, and their places supplied +by the same violent intrusion of clergy and laity, which had +formerly been practised. It happened that in the reign of king +Stephen, who succeeded Henry I., a knight, born in Armorican +Britain, having travelled through many parts of the world, from a +desire of seeing different cities, and the manners of their +inhabitants, came by chance to Lhanpadarn. On a certain feast-day, +whilst both the clergy and people were waiting for the arrival of +the abbot to celebrate mass, he perceived a body of young men, +armed, according to the custom of their country, approaching towards +the church; and on enquiring which of them was the abbot, they +pointed out to him a man walking foremost, with a long spear in his +hand. Gazing on him with amazement, he asked, "If the abbot had not +another habit, or a different staff, from that which he now carried +before him?" On their answering, "No!" he replied, "I have seen +indeed and heard this day a wonderful novelty!" and from that hour +he returned home, and finished his labours and researches. This +wicked people boasts, that a certain bishop {144} of their church +(for it formerly was a cathedral) was murdered by their +predecessors; and on this account, chiefly, they ground their claims +of right and possession. No public complaint having been made +against their conduct, we have thought it more prudent to pass over, +for the present, the enormities of this wicked race with +dissimulation, than exasperate them by a further relation. + + + +CHAPTER V + + + +Of the river Devi, and the land of the sons of Conan + + +Approaching to the river Devi, {145} which divides North and South +Wales, the bishop of St. David's, and Rhys the son of Gruffydd, who +with a liberality peculiarly praiseworthy in so illustrious a +prince, had accompanied us from the castle of Aberteivi, throughout +all Cardiganshire, to this place, returned home. Having crossed the +river in a boat, and quitted the diocese of St. David's, we entered +the land of the sons of Conan, or Merionyth, the first province of +Venedotia on that side of the country, and belonging to the +bishopric of Bangor. {146} We slept that night at Towyn. Early +next morning, Gruffydd son of Conan {147} came to meet us, humbly +and devoutly asking pardon for having so long delayed his attention +to the archbishop. On the same day, we ferried over the bifurcate +river Maw, {148} where Malgo, son of Rhys, who had attached himself +to the archbishop, as a companion to the king's court, discovered a +ford near the sea. That night we lay at Llanvair, {149} that is the +church of St. Mary, in the province of Ardudwy. {150} This +territory of Conan, and particularly Merionyth, is the rudest and +roughest district of all Wales; the ridges of its mountains are very +high and narrow, terminating in sharp peaks, and so irregularly +jumbled together, that if the shepherds conversing or disputing with +each other from their summits, should agree to meet, they could +scarcely effect their purpose in the course of the whole day. The +lances of this country are very long; for as South Wales excels in +the use of the bow, so North Wales is distinguished for its skill in +the lance; insomuch that an iron coat of mail will not resist the +stroke of a lance thrown at a small distance. The next morning, the +youngest son of Conan, named Meredyth, met us at the passage of a +bridge, attended by his people, where many persons were signed with +the cross; amongst whom was a fine young man of his suite, and one +of his intimate friends; and Meredyth, observing that the cloak, on +which the cross was to be sewed, appeared of too thin and of too +common a texture, with a flood of tears, threw him down his own. + + + +CHAPTER VI + + + +Passage of Traeth Mawr and Traeth Bachan, and of Nevyn, Carnarvon, +and Bangor + + +We continued our journey over the Traeth Mawr, {151} and Traeth +Bachan, {152} that is, the greater and the smaller arm of the sea, +where two stone castles have newly been erected; one called +Deudraeth, belonging to the sons of Conan, situated in Evionyth, +towards the northern mountains; the other named Carn Madryn, the +property of the sons of Owen, built on the other side of the river +towards the sea, on the head-land Lleyn. {153} Traeth, in the Welsh +language, signifies a tract of sand flooded by the tides, and left +bare when the sea ebbs. We had before passed over the noted rivers, +the Dissenith, {154} between the Maw and Traeth Mawr, and the +Arthro, between the Traeth Mawr and Traeth Bachan. We slept that +night at Nevyn, on the eve of Palm Sunday, where the archdeacon, +after long inquiry and research, is said to have found Merlin +Sylvestris. {155} + +Beyond Lleyn, there is a small island inhabited by very religious +monks, called Caelibes, or Colidei. This island, either from the +wholesomeness of its climate, owing to its vicinity to Ireland, or +rather from some miracle obtained by the merits of the saints, has +this wonderful peculiarity, that the oldest people die first, +because diseases are uncommon, and scarcely any die except from +extreme old age. Its name is Enlli in the Welsh, and Berdesey {156} +in the Saxon language; and very many bodies of saints are said to be +buried there, and amongst them that of Daniel, bishop of Bangor. + +The archbishop having, by his sermon the next day, induced many +persons to take the cross, we proceeded towards Banchor, passing +through Caernarvon, {157} that is, the castle of Arvon; it is called +Arvon, the province opposite to Mon, because it is so situated with +respect to the island of Mona. Our road leading us to a steep +valley, {158} with many broken ascents and descents, we dismounted +from our horses, and proceeded on foot, rehearsing, as it were, by +agreement, some experiments of our intended pilgrimage to Jerusalem. +Having traversed the valley, and reached the opposite side with +considerable fatigue, the archbishop, to rest himself and recover +his breath, sat down on an oak which had been torn up by the +violence of the winds; and relaxing into a pleasantry highly +laudable in a person of his approved gravity, thus addressed his +attendants: "Who amongst you, in this company, can now delight our +wearied ears by whistling?" which is not easily done by people out +of breath. He affirming that he could, if he thought fit, the sweet +notes are heard, in an adjoining wood, of a bird, which some said +was a woodpecker, and others, more correctly, an aureolus. The +woodpecker is called in French, spec, and with its strong bill, +perforates oak trees; the other bird in called aureolus, from the +golden tints of its feathers, and at certain seasons utters a sweet +whistling note instead of a song. Some persons having remarked, +that the nightingale was never heard in this country, the +archbishop, with a significant smile, replied, "The nightingale +followed wise counsel, and never came into Wales; but we, unwise +counsel, who have penetrated and gone through it." We remained that +night at Banchor, {159} the metropolitan see of North Wales, and +were well entertained by the bishop of the diocese. {160} On the +next day, mass being celebrated by the archbishop before the high +altar, the bishop of that see, at the instance of the archbishop and +other persons, more importunate than persuasive, was compelled to +take the cross, to the general concern of all his people of both +sexes, who expressed their grief on this occasion by loud and +lamentable vociferations. + + + +CHAPTER VII + + + +The island of Mona + + +From hence, we crossed over a small arm of the sea to the island of +Mona, {161} distant from thence about two miles, where Roderic, the +younger son of Owen, attended by nearly all the inhabitants of the +island, and many others from the adjacent countries, came in a +devout manner to meet us. Confession having been made in a place +near the shore, where the surrounding rocks seemed to form a natural +theatre, {162} many persons were induced to take the cross, by the +persuasive discourses of the archbishop, and Alexander, our +interpreter, archdeacon of that place, and of Sisillus, abbot of +Stratflur. Many chosen youths of the family of Roderic were seated +on an opposite rock, and not one of them could be prevailed upon to +take the cross, although the archbishop and others most earnestly +exhorted them, but in vain, by an address particularly directed to +them. It came to pass within three days, as if by divine vengeance, +that these young men, with many others, pursued some robbers of that +country. Being discomfited and put to flight, some were slain, +others mortally wounded, and the survivors voluntarily assumed that +cross they had before despised. Roderic, also, who a short time +before had incestuously married the daughter of Rhys, related to him +by blood in the third degree, in order, by the assistance of that +prince, to be better able to defend himself against the sons of his +brothers, whom he had disinherited, not paying attention to the +wholesome admonitions of the archbishop on this subject, was a +little while afterwards dispossessed of all his lands by their +means; thus deservedly meeting with disappointment from the very +source from which he expected support. The island of Mona contains +three hundred and forty-three vills, considered equal to three +cantreds. Cantred, a compound word from the British and Irish +languages, is a portion of land equal to one hundred vills. There +are three islands contiguous to Britain, on its different sides, +which are said to be nearly of an equal size - the Isle of Wight on +the south, Mona on the west, and Mania (Man) on the north-west side. +The two first are separated from Britain by narrow channels; the +third is much further removed, lying almost midway between the +countries of Ulster in Ireland and Galloway in Scotland. The island +of Mona is an arid and stony land, rough and unpleasant in its +appearance, similar in its exterior qualities to the land of +Pebidion, {163} near St. David's, but very different as to its +interior value. For this island is incomparably more fertile in +corn than any other part of Wales, from whence arose the British +proverb, "Mon mam Cymbry, Mona mother of Wales;" and when the crops +have been defective in all other parts of the country, this island, +from the richness of its soil and abundant produce, has been able to +supply all Wales. + +As many things within this island are worthy of remark, I shall not +think it superfluous to make mention of some of them. There is a +stone here resembling a human thigh, {164} which possesses this +innate virtue, that whatever distance it may be carried, it returns, +of its own accord, the following night, as has often been +experienced by the inhabitants. Hugh, earl of Chester, {165} in the +reign of king Henry I., having by force occupied this island and the +adjacent country, heard of the miraculous power of this stone, and, +for the purpose of trial, ordered it to be fastened, with strong +iron chains, to one of a larger size, and to be thrown into the sea. +On the following morning, however, according to custom, it was found +in its original position, on which account the earl issued a public +edict, that no one, from that time, should presume to move the stone +from its place. A countryman, also, to try the powers of this +stone, fastened it to his thigh, which immediately became putrid, +and the stone returned to its original situation. + +There is in the same island a stony hill, not very large or high, +from one side of which, if you cry aloud, you will not be heard on +the other; and it is called (by anti-phrasis) the rock of hearers. +In the northern part of Great Britain (Northumberland) so named by +the English, from its situation beyond the river Humber, there is a +hill of a similar nature, where if a loud horn or trumpet is sounded +on one side, it cannot be heard on the opposite one. There is also +in this island the church of St. Tefredaucus, {166} into which Hugh, +earl of Shrewsbury, (who, together with the earl of Chester, had +forcibly entered Anglesey), on a certain night put some dogs, which +on the following morning were found mad, and he himself died within +a month; for some pirates, from the Orcades, having entered the port +of the island in their long vessels, the earl, apprised of their +approach, boldly met them, rushing into the sea upon a spirited +horse. The commander of the expedition, Magnus, standing on the +prow of the foremost ship, aimed an arrow at him; and, although the +earl was completely equipped in a coat of mail, and guarded in every +part of his body except his eyes, the unlucky weapon struck his +right eye, and, entering his brain, he fell a lifeless corpse into +the sea. The victor, seeing him in this state, proudly and +exultingly exclaimed, in the Danish tongue, "Leit loup," let him +leap; and from this time the power of the English ceased in +Anglesey. In our times, also, when Henry II. was leading an army +into North Wales, where he had experienced the ill fortune of war in +a narrow, woody pass near Coleshulle, he sent a fleet into Anglesey, +and began to plunder the aforesaid church, and other sacred places. +But the divine vengeance pursued him, for the inhabitants rushed +upon the invaders, few against many, unarmed against armed; and +having slain great numbers, and taken many prisoners, gained a most +complete and bloody victory. For, as our Topography of Ireland +testifies, that the Welsh and Irish are more prone to anger and +revenge than any other nations, the saints, likewise, of those +countries appear to be of a more vindictive nature. + +Two noble persons, and uncles of the author of this book, were sent +thither by the king; namely, Henry, son of king Henry I., and uncle +to king Henry II., by Nest, daughter of Rhys, prince of South Wales; +and Robert Fitz-Stephen, brother to Henry, a man who in our days, +shewing the way to others, first attacked Ireland, and whose fame is +recorded in our Vaticinal History. Henry, actuated by too much +valour, and ill supported, was pierced by a lance, and fell amongst +the foremost, to the great concern of his attendants; and Robert, +despairing of being able to defend himself, was badly wounded, and +escaped with difficulty to the ships. + +There is a small island, almost adjoining to Anglesey, which is +inhabited by hermits, living by manual labour, and serving God. It +is remarkable that when, by the influence of human passions, any +discord arises among them, all their provisions are devoured and +infected by a species of small mice, with which the island abounds; +but when the discord ceases, they are no longer molested. Nor is it +to be wondered at, if the servants of God sometimes disagree, since +Jacob and Esau contended in the womb of Rebecca, and Paul and +Barnabas differed; the disciples also of Jesus disputed which of +them should be the greatest, for these are the temptations of human +infirmity; yet virtue is often made perfect by infirmity, and faith +is increased by tribulations. This island is called in Welsh, Ynys +Lenach, {167} or the ecclesiastical island, because many bodies of +saints are deposited there, and no woman is suffered to enter it. + +We saw in Anglesey a dog, who accidentally had lost his tail, and +whose whole progeny bore the same defect. It is wonderful that +nature should, as it were, conform itself in this particular to the +accident of the father. We saw also a knight, named Earthbald, born +in Devonshire, whose father, denying the child with which his mother +was pregnant, and from motives of jealousy accusing her of +inconstancy, nature alone decided the controversy by the birth of +the child, who, by a miracle, exhibited on his upper lip a scar, +similar to one his father bore in consequence of a wound he had +received from a lance in one of his military expeditions. Stephen, +the son of Earthbald, had a similar mark, the accident being in a +manner converted into nature. A like miracle of nature occurred in +earl Alberic, son of Alberic earl of Veer, {168} whose father, +during the pregnancy of his mother, the daughter of Henry of Essex, +having laboured to procure a divorce, on account of the ignominy of +her father, the child, when born, had the same blemish in its eye, +as the father had got from a casual hurt. These defects may be +entailed on the offspring, perhaps, by the impression made on the +memory by frequent and steady observation; as it is reported that a +queen, accustomed to see the picture of a negro in her chamber, +unexpectedly brought forth a black child, and is exculpated by +Quintilian, on account of the picture. In like manner it happened +to the spotted sheep, given by Laban out of his flock to his nephew +Jacob, and which conceived by means of variegated rods. {169} Nor +is the child always affected by the mother's imagination alone, but +sometimes by that of the father; for it is well known that a man, +seeing a passenger near him, who was convulsed both behind and +before, on going home and telling his wife that he could not get the +impression of this sight off his mind, begat a child who was +affected in a similar manner. + + + +CHAPTER VIII + + + +Passage of the river Conwy in a boat, and of Dinas Emrys + + +On our return to Banchor from Mona, we were shown the tombs of +prince Owen and his younger brother Cadwalader, {170} who were +buried in a double vault before the high altar, although Owen, on +account of his public incest with his cousin-german, had died +excommunicated by the blessed martyr St. Thomas, the bishop of that +see having been enjoined to seize a proper opportunity of removing +his body from the church. We continued our journey on the sea +coast, confined on one side by steep rocks, and by the sea on the +other, towards the river Conwy, which preserves its waters +unadulterated by the sea. Not far from the source of the river +Conwy, at the head of the Eryri mountain, which on this side extends +itself towards the north, stands Dinas Emrys, that is, the +promontory of Ambrosius, where Merlin {171} uttered his prophecies, +whilst Vortigern was seated upon the bank. There were two Merlins; +the one called Ambrosius who prophesied in the time of king +Vortigern, was begotten by a demon incubus, and found at Caermardin, +from which circumstance that city derived its name of Caermardin, or +the city of Merlin; the other Merlin, born in Scotland, was named +Celidonius, from the Celidonian wood in which he prophesied; and +Sylvester, because when engaged in martial conflict, he discovered +in the air a terrible monster, and from that time grew mad, and +taking shelter in a wood, passed the remainder of his days in a +savage state. This Merlin lived in the time of king Arthur, and is +said to have prophesied more fully and explicitly than the other. I +shall pass over in silence what was done by the sons of Owen in our +days, after his death, or while he was dying, who, from the wicked +desire of reigning, totally disregarded the ties of fraternity; but +I shall not omit mentioning another event which occurred likewise in +our days. Owen, {172} son of Gruffyth, prince of North Wales, had +many sons, but only one legitimate, namely, Iorwerth Drwyndwn, which +in Welsh means flat-nosed, who had a son named Llewelyn. This young +man, being only twelve years of age, began, during the period of our +journey, to molest his uncles David and Roderic, the sons of Owen by +Christiana, his cousin-german; and although they had divided amongst +themselves all North Wales, except the land of Conan, and although +David, having married the sister of king Henry II., by whom he had +one son, was powerfully supported by the English, yet within a few +years the legitimate son, destitute of lands or money (by the aid of +divine vengeance), bravely expelled from North Wales those who were +born in public incest, though supported by their own wealth and by +that of others, leaving them nothing but what the liberality of his +own mind and the counsel of good men from pity suggested: a proof +that adulterous and incestuous persons are displeasing to God. + + + +CHAPTER IX + + + +Of the mountains of Eryri + + +I must not pass over in silence the mountains called by the Welsh +Eryri, but by the English Snowdon, or Mountains of Snow, which +gradually increasing from the land of the sons of Conan, and +extending themselves northwards near Deganwy, seem to rear their +lofty summits even to the clouds, when viewed from the opposite +coast of Anglesey. They are said to be of so great an extent, that +according to an ancient proverb, "As Mona could supply corn for all +the inhabitants of Wales, so could the Eryri mountains afford +sufficient pasture for all the herds, if collected together." Hence +these lines of Virgil may be applied to them:- + + +"Et quantum longis carpent armenta diebus, +Exigua tautum gelidus ros nocte reponet." + +"And what is cropt by day the night renews, +Shedding refreshful stores of cooling dews." + + +On the highest parts of these mountains are two lakes worthy of +admiration. The one has a floating island in it, which is often +driven from one side to the other by the force of the winds; and the +shepherds behold with astonishment their cattle, whilst feeding, +carried to the distant parts of the lake. A part of the bank +naturally bound together by the roots of willows and other shrubs +may have been broken off, and increased by the alluvion of the earth +from the shore; and being continually agitated by the winds, which +in so elevated a situation blow with great violence, it cannot +reunite itself firmly with the banks. The other lake is noted for a +wonderful and singular miracle. It contains three sorts of fish - +eels, trout, and perch, all of which have only one eye, the left +being wanting; but if the curious reader should demand of me the +explanation of so extraordinary a circumstance, I cannot presume to +satisfy him. It is remarkable also, that in two places in Scotland, +one near the eastern, the other near the western sea, the fish +called mullets possess the same defect, having no left eye. +According to vulgar tradition, these mountains are frequented by an +eagle who, perching on a fatal stone every fifth holiday, in order +to satiate her hunger with the carcases of the slain, is said to +expect war on that same day, and to have almost perforated the stone +by cleaning and sharpening her beak. + + + +CHAPTER X + + + +Of the passage by Deganwy and Ruthlan, and the see of Lanelwy, and +of Coleshulle + + +Having crossed the river Conwy, {173} or rather an arm of the sea, +under Deganwy, leaving the Cistercian monastery of Conwy {174} on +the western bank of the river to our right hand, we arrived at +Ruthlan, a noble castle on the river Cloyd, belonging to David, the +eldest son of Owen {175} where, at the earnest invitation of David +himself, we were handsomely entertained that night. + +There is a spring not far from Ruthlan, in the province of Tegengel, +{176} which not only regularly ebbs and flows like the sea, twice in +twenty-four hours, but at other times frequently rises and falls +both by night and day. Trogus Pompeius says, "that there is a town +of the Garamantes, where there is a spring which is hot and cold +alternately by day and night." {177} + +Many persons in the morning having been persuaded to dedicate +themselves to the service of Christ, we proceeded from Ruthlan to +the small cathedral church of Lanelwy; {178} from whence (the +archbishop having celebrated mass) we continued our journey through +a country rich in minerals of silver, where money is sought in the +bowels of the earth, to the little cell of Basinwerk, {179} where we +passed the night. The following day we traversed a long quicksand, +and not without some degree of apprehension, leaving the woody +district of Coleshulle, {180} or hill of coal, on our right hand, +where Henry II., who in our time, actuated by youthful and +indiscreet ardour, made a hostile irruption into Wales, and +presuming to pass through that narrow and woody defile, experienced +a signal defeat, and a very heavy loss of men. {181} The aforesaid +king invaded Wales three times with an army; first, North Wales at +the above-mentioned place; secondly, South Wales, by the sea-coast +of Glamorgan and Goer, penetrating as far as Caermarddin and +Pencadair, and returning by Ellennith and Melenith; and thirdly, the +country of Powys, near Oswaldestree; but in all these expeditions +the king was unsuccessful, because he placed no confidence in the +prudent and well-informed chieftains of the country, but was +principally advised by people remote from the marches, and ignorant +of the manners and customs of the natives. In every expedition, as +the artificer is to be trusted in his trade, so the advice of those +people should be consulted, who, by a long residence in the country, +are become conversant with the manners and customs of the natives; +and to whom it is of high importance that the power of the hostile +nation, with whom, by a long and continued warfare, they have +contracted an implacable enmity and hatred, should be weakened or +destroyed, as we have set forth in our Vaticinal History. + +In this wood of Coleshulle, a young Welshman was killed while +passing through the king's army; the greyhound who accompanied him +did not desert his master's corpse for eight days, though without +food; but faithfully defended it from the attacks of dogs, wolves, +and birds of prey, with a wonderful attachment. What son to his +father, what Nisus to Euryalus, what Polynices to Tydeus, what +Orestes to Pylades, would have shewn such an affectionate regard? +As a mark of favour to the dog, who was almost starved to death, the +English, although bitter enemies to the Welsh, ordered the body, now +nearly putrid, to be deposited in the ground with the accustomed +offices of humanity. + + + +CHAPTER XI + + + +Of the passage of the River Dee, and of Chester + + +Having crossed the river Dee below Chester, (which the Welsh call +Doverdwy), on the third day before Easter, or the day of absolution +(holy Thursday), we reached Chester. As the river Wye towards the +south separates Wales from England, so the Dee near Chester forms +the northern boundary. The inhabitants of these parts assert, that +the waters of this river change their fords every month, and, as it +inclines more towards England or Wales, they can, with certainty, +prognosticate which nation will be successful or unfortunate during +the year. This river derives its origin from the lake Penmelesmere, +{182} and, although it abounds with salmon, yet none are found in +the lake. It is also remarkable, that this river is never swollen +by rains, but often rises by the violence of the winds. + +Chester boasts of being the burial-place of Henry, {183} a Roman +emperor, who, after having imprisoned his carnal and spiritual +father, pope Paschal, gave himself up to penitence; and, becoming a +voluntary exile in this country, ended his days in solitary +retirement. It is also asserted, that the remains of Harold are +here deposited. He was the last of the Saxon kings in England, and +as a punishment for his perjury, was defeated in the battle of +Hastings, fought against the Normans. Having received many wounds, +and lost his left eye by an arrow in that engagement, he is said to +have escaped to these parts, where, in holy conversation, leading +the life of an anchorite, and being a constant attendant at one of +the churches of this city, he is believed to have terminated his +days happily. {184} The truth of these two circumstances was +declared (and not before known) by the dying confession of each +party. We saw here, what appeared novel to us, cheese made of +deer's milk; for the countess and her mother keeping tame deer, +presented to the archbishop three small cheeses made from their +milk. + +In this same country was produced, in our time, a cow partaking of +the nature of a stag, resembling its mother in the fore parts and +the stag in its hips, legs, and feet, and having the skin and colour +of the stag; but, partaking more of the nature of the domestic than +of the wild animal, it remained with the herd of cattle. A bitch +also was pregnant by a monkey, and produced a litter of whelps +resembling a monkey before, and the dog behind; which the rustic +keeper of the military hall seeing with astonishment and abhorrence, +immediately killed with the stick he carried in his hand; thereby +incurring the severe resentment and anger of his lord, when the +latter became acquainted with the circumstance. + +In our time, also, a woman was born in Chester without hands, to +whom nature had supplied a remedy for that defect by the flexibility +and delicacy of the joints of her feet, with which she could sew, or +perform any work with thread or scissors, as well as other women. + + + +CHAPTER XII + + + +Of the journey by the White Monastery, Oswaldestree, Powys, and +Shrewsbury + + +The feast of Easter having been observed with due solemnity, and +many persons, by the exhortations of the archbishop, signed with the +cross, we directed our way from Chester to the White Monastery, +{185} and from thence towards Oswaldestree; where, on the very +borders of Powys, we were met by Gruffydd son of Madoc, and Elissa, +princes of that country, and many others; some few of whom having +been persuaded to take the cross (for several of the multitude had +been previously signed by Reiner, {186} the bishop of that place), +Gruffydd, prince of the district, publicly adjured, in the presence +of the archbishop, his cousin-german, Angharad, daughter of prince +Owen, whom, according to the vicious custom of the country, he had +long considered as his wife. We slept at Oswaldestree, or the tree +of St. Oswald, and were most sumptuously entertained after the +English manner, by William Fitz-Alan, {187} a noble and liberal +young man. A short time before, whilst Reiner was preaching, a +robust youth being earnestly exhorted to follow the example of his +companions in taking the cross, answered, "I will not follow your +advice until, with this lance which I bear in my hand, I shall have +avenged the death of my lord," alluding to Owen, son of Madoc, a +distinguished warrior, who had been maliciously and treacherously +slain by Owen Cyfeilioc, his cousin-german; and while he was thus +venting his anger and revenge, and violently brandishing his lance, +it suddenly snapped asunder, and fell disjointed in several pieces +to the ground, the handle only remaining in his hand. Alarmed and +astonished at this omen, which he considered as a certain signal for +his taking the cross, he voluntarily offered his services. + +In this third district of Wales, called Powys, there are most +excellent studs put apart for breeding, and deriving their origin +from some fine Spanish horses, which Robert de Belesme, {188} earl +of Shrewsbury, brought into this country: on which account the +horses sent from hence are remarkable for their majestic proportion +and astonishing fleetness. + +Here king Henry II. entered Powys, in our days, upon an expensive, +though fruitless, expedition. {189} Having dismembered the hostages +whom he had previously received, he was compelled, by a sudden and +violent fall of rain, to retreat with his army. On the preceding +day, the chiefs of the English army had burned some of the Welsh +churches, with the villages and churchyards; upon which the sons of +Owen the Great, with their light-armed troops, stirred up the +resentment of their father and the other princes of the country, +declaring that they would never in future spare any churches of the +English. When nearly the whole army was on the point of assenting +to this determination, Owen, a man of distinguished wisdom and +moderation - the tumult being in some degree subsided - thus spake: +"My opinion, indeed, by no means agrees with yours, for we ought to +rejoice at this conduct of our adversary; for, unless supported by +divine assistance, we are far inferior to the English; and they, by +their behaviour, have made God their enemy, who is able most +powerfully to avenge both himself and us. We therefore most +devoutly promise God that we will henceforth pay greater reverence +than ever to churches and holy places." After which, the English +army, on the following night, experienced (as has before been +related) the divine vengeance. + +From Oswaldestree, we directed our course towards Shrewsbury +(Salopesburia), which is nearly surrounded by the river Severn, +where we remained a few days to rest and refresh ourselves; and +where many people were induced to take the cross, through the +elegant sermons of the archbishop and archdeacon. We also +excommunicated Owen de Cevelioc, because he alone, amongst the Welsh +princes, did not come to meet the archbishop with his people. Owen +was a man of more fluent speech than his contemporary princes, and +was conspicuous for the good management of his territory. Having +generally favoured the royal cause, and opposed the measures of his +own chieftains, he had contracted a great familiarity with king +Henry II. Being with the king at table at Shrewsbury, Henry, as a +mark of peculiar honour and regard, sent him one of his own loaves; +he immediately brake it into small pieces, like alms-bread, and +having, like an almoner, placed them at a distance from him, he took +them up one by one and ate them. The king requiring an explanation +of this proceeding, Owen, with a smile, replied, "I thus follow the +example of my lord;" keenly alluding to the avaricious disposition +of the king, who was accustomed to retain for a long time in his own +hands the vacant ecclesiastical benefices. + +It is to be remarked that three princes, {190} distinguished for +their justice, wisdom, and princely moderation, ruled, in our time, +over the three provinces of Wales: Owen, son of Gruffydd, in +Venedotia, or North Wales; Meredyth, his grandson, son of Gruffydd, +who died early in life, in South Wales; and Owen de Cevelioc, in +Powys. But two other princes were highly celebrated for their +generosity; Cadwalader, son of Gruffydd, in North Wales, and +Gruffydd of Maelor, son of Madoc, in Powys; and Rhys, son of +Gruffydd, in South Wales, deserved commendation for his enterprising +and independent spirit. In North Wales, David, son of Owen, and on +the borders of Morgannoc, in South Wales, Howel, son of Iorwerth of +Caerleon, maintained their good faith and credit, by observing a +strict neutrality between the Welsh and English. + + + +CHAPTER XIII + + + +Of the journey by Wenloch, Brumfeld, the castle of Ludlow, and +Leominster, to Hereford + + +From Shrewsbury, we continued our journey towards Wenloch, by a +narrow and rugged way, called Evil-street, where, in our time, a +Jew, travelling with the archdeacon of the place, whose name was Sin +(Peccatum), and the dean, whose name was Devil, towards Shrewsbury, +hearing the archdeacon say, that his archdeaconry began at a place +called Evil-street, and extended as far as Mal-pas, towards Chester, +pleasantly told them, "It would be a miracle, if his fate brought +him safe out of a country, whose archdeacon was Sin, whose dean the +devil; the entrance to the archdeaconry Evil-street, and its exit +Bad-pass." {191} + +From Wenloch, we passed by the little cell of Brumfeld, {192} the +noble castle of Ludlow, through Leominster to Hereford leaving on +our right hand the districts of Melenyth and Elvel; thus (describing +as it were a circle) we came to the same point from which we had +commenced this laborious journey through Wales. + +During this long and laudable legation, about three thousand men +were signed with the cross; well skilled in the use of arrows and +lances, and versed in military matters; impatient to attack the +enemies of the faith; profitably and happily engaged for the service +of Christ, if the expedition of the Holy Cross had been forwarded +with an alacrity equal to the diligence and devotion with which the +forces were collected. But by the secret, though never unjust, +judgment of God, the journey of the Roman emperor was delayed, and +dissensions arose amongst our kings. The premature and fatal hand +of death arrested the king of Sicily, who had been the foremost +sovereign in supplying the holy land with corn and provisions during +the period of their distress. In consequence of his death, violent +contentions arose amongst our princes respecting their several +rights to the kingdom; and the faithful beyond sea suffered severely +by want and famine, surrounded on all sides by enemies, and most +anxiously waiting for supplies. But as affliction may strengthen +the understanding, as gold is tried by fire, and virtue may be +confirmed in weakness, these things are suffered to happen; since +adversity (as Gregory testifies) opposed to good prayers is the +probation of virtue, not the judgment of reproof. For who does not +know how fortunate a circumstance it was that Paul went to Italy, +and suffered so dreadful a shipwreck? But the ship of his heart +remained unbroken amidst the waves of the sea. + + + +CHAPTER XIV + + + +A description of Baldwin, archbishop of Canterbury {193} + + +Let it not be thought superfluous to describe the exterior and +inward qualities of that person, the particulars of whose embassy, +and as it were holy peregrination, we have briefly and succinctly +related. He was a man of a dark complexion, of an open and +venerable countenance, of a moderate stature, a good person, and +rather inclined to be thin than corpulent. He was a modest and +grave man, of so great abstinence and continence, that ill report +scarcely ever presumed to say any thing against him; a man of few +words; slow to anger, temperate and moderate in all his passions and +affections; swift to hear, slow to speak; he was from an early age +well instructed in literature, and bearing the yoke of the Lord from +his youth, by the purity of his morals became a distinguished +luminary to the people; wherefore voluntarily resigning the honour +of the archlevite, {194} which he had canonically obtained, and +despising the pomps and vanities of the world, he assumed with holy +devotion the habit of the Cistercian order; and as he had been +formerly more than a monk in his manners, within the space of a year +he was appointed abbot, and in a few years afterwards preferred +first to a bishopric, and then to an archbishopric; and having been +found faithful in a little, had authority given him over much. But, +as Cicero says, "Nature had made nothing entirely perfect;" when he +came into power, not laying aside that sweet innate benignity which +he had always shewn when a private man, sustaining his people with +his staff rather than chastising them with rods, feeding them as it +were with the milk of a mother, and not making use of the scourges +of the father, he incurred public scandal for his remissness. So +great was his lenity that he put an end to all pastoral rigour; and +was a better monk than abbot, a better bishop than archbishop. +Hence pope Urban addressed him; "Urban, servant of the servants of +God, to the most fervent monk, to the warm abbot, to the luke-warm +bishop, to the remiss archbishop, health, etc." + +This second successor to the martyr Thomas, having heard of the +insults offered to our Saviour and his holy cross, was amongst the +first who signed themselves with the cross, and manfully assumed the +office of preaching its service both at home and in the most remote +parts of the kingdom. Pursuing his journey to the Holy Land, he +embarked on board a vessel at Marseilles, and landed safely in a +port at Tyre, from whence he proceeded to Acre, where he found our +army both attacking and attacked, our forces dispirited by the +defection of the princes, and thrown into a state of desolation and +despair; fatigued by long expectation of supplies, greatly afflicted +by hunger and want, and distempered by the inclemency of the air: +finding his end approaching, he embraced his fellow subjects, +relieving their wants by liberal acts of charity and pious +exhortations, and by the tenor of his life and actions strengthened +them in the faith; whose ways, life, and deeds, may he who is alone +the "way, the truth, and the life," the way without offence, the +truth without doubt, and the life without end, direct in truth, +together with the whole body of the faithful, and for the glory of +his name and the palm of faith which he hath planted, teach their +hands to war, and their fingers to fight. + + + +Footnotes: + + +{1} It is a somewhat curious coincidence that the island of Barry +is now owned by a descendant of Gerald de Windor's elder brother - +the Earl of Plymouth. + +{2} "Mirror of the Church," ii. 33. + +{3} "Social England," vol. i. p. 342. + +{4} Published in the first instance in the "Transactions of the +Cymmrodaian Society," and subsequently amplified and brought out in +book form. + +{5} Introduction to Borrow's "Wild Wales" in the Everyman Series. + +{6} Geoffrey, who ended his life as Bishop of St. Asaph, was +supposed to have found the material for his "History of the British +Kings" in a Welsh book, containing a history of the Britons, which +Waltor Colenius, Archdeacon of Oxford, picked up during a journey in +Brittany. + +{7} Walter Map, another Archdeacon of Oxford, was born in +Glamorganshire, the son of a Norman knight by a Welsh mother. Inter +alia he was the author of a Welsh work on agriculture. + +{8} Green, "Hist. Eng. People," i. 172. + +{9} "England under the Angevin Kings," vol. ii. 457. + +{10} Project Gutenberg has released "The Description of Wales" as a +separate eText - David Price. + +{11} Giraldus has committed an error in placing Urban III. at the +head of the apostolic see; for he died at Ferrara in the month of +October, A.D. 1187, and was succeeded by Gregory VIII., whose short +reign expired in the month of December following. Clement III. was +elected pontiff in the year 1188. Frederick I., surnamed +Barbarossa, succeeded Conrad III. in the empire of Germany, in +March, 1152, and was drowned in a river of Cilicia whilst bathing, +in 1190. Isaac Angelus succeeded Andronicus I. as emperor of +Constantinople, in 1185, and was dethroned in 1195. Philip II., +surnamed Augustus, from his having been born in the month of August, +was crowned at Rheims, in 1179, and died at Mantes, in 1223. William +II., king of Sicily, surnamed the Good, succeeded in 1166 to his +father, William the Bad, and died in 1189. Bela III., king of +Hungary, succeeded to the throne in 1174, and died in 1196. Guy de +Lusignan was crowned king of Jerusalem in 1186, and in the following +year his city was taken by the victorious Saladin. + +{12} New Radnor. + +{13} Rhys ap Gruffydd was grandson to Rhys ap Tewdwr, prince of +South Wales, who, in 1090, was slain in an engagement with the +Normans. He was a prince of great talent, but great versatility of +character, and made a conspicuous figure in Welsh history. He died +in 1196, and was buried in the cathedral of St. David's; where his +effigy, as well as that of his son Rhys Gryg, still remain in a good +state of preservation. + +{14} Peter de Leia, prior of the Benedictine monastery of Wenlock, +in Shropshire, was the successful rival of Giraldus for the +bishopric of Saint David's, vacant by the death of David Fitzgerald, +the uncle of our author; but he did not obtain his promotion without +considerable opposition from the canons, who submitted to the +absolute sequestration of their property before they consented to +his election, being desirous that the nephew should have succeeded +his uncle. He was consecrated in 1176, and died in 1199. + +{15} In the Latin of Giraldus, the name of Eineon is represented by +AEneas, and Eineon Clyd by AEneas Claudius. + +{16} Cruker Castle. The corresponding distance between Old and New +Radnor evidently places this castle at Old Radnor, which was +anciently called Pen-y-craig, Pencraig, or Pen-crug, from its +situation on a rocky eminence. Cruker is a corruption, probably, +from Crug-caerau, the mount, or height, of the fortifications. + +{17} Buelth or Builth, a large market town on the north-west edge +of the county of Brecon, on the southern banks of the Wye, over +which there is a long and handsome bridge of stone. It had formerly +a strong castle, the site and earthworks of which still remain, but +the building is destroyed. + +{18} Llan-Avan, a small church at the foot of barren mountains +about five or six miles north-west of Buelth. The saint from whom +it takes its name, was one of the sons of Cedig ab Cunedda; whose +ancestor, Cunedda, king of the Britons, was the head of one of the +three holy families of Britain. He is said to have lived in the +beginning of the sixth century. + +{19} Melenia, Warthrenion, Elevein, Elvenia, Melenyth, and Elvein, +places mentioned in this first chapter, and varying in their +orthography, were three different districts in Radnorshire: +Melenyth is a hundred in the northern part of the county, extending +into Montgomeryshire, in which is the church of Keri: Elvein +retains in modern days the name of Elvel, and is a hundred in the +southern part of the county, separated from Brecknockshire by the +Wye; and Warthrenion, in which was the castle built by prince Rhys +at Rhaiadyr-gwy, seems to have been situated between the other two. +Warthrenion may more properly be called Gwyrthrynion, it was +anciently one of the three comots of Arwystli, a cantref of +Merioneth. In the year 1174, Melyenith was in the possession of +Cadwallon ap Madawc, cousin german to prince Rhys; Elvel was held by +Eineon Clyd and Gwyrthrynion by Eineon ap Rhys, both sons-in-law to +that illustrious prince. + +{20} The church of Saint Germanus is now known by the name of Saint +Harmans, and is situated three or four miles from Rhaiadyr, in +Radnorshire, on the right-hand of the road from thence to +Llanidloes; it is a small and simple structure, placed on a little +eminence, in a dreary plain surrounded by mountains. + +{21} Several churches in Wales have been dedicated to Saint Curig, +who came into Wales in the seventh century. + +{22} Glascum is a small village in a mountainous and retired +situation between Builth and Kington, in Herefordshire. + +{23} Bangu. - This was a hand bell kept in all the Welsh churches, +which the clerk or sexton took to the house of the deceased on the +day of the funeral: when the procession began, a psalm was sung; +the bellman then sounded his bell in a solemn manner for some time, +till another psalm was concluded; and he again sounded it at +intervals, till the funeral arrived at the church. + +{24} Rhaiadyr, called also Rhaiader-gwy, is a small village and +market-town in Radnorshire. The site only of the castle, built by +prince Rhys, A.D. 1178, now remains at a short distance from the +village; it was strongly situated on a natural rock above the river +Wye, which, below the bridge, forms a cataract. + +{25} Llywel, a small village about a mile from Trecastle, on the +great road leading from thence to Llandovery; it was anciently a +township, and by charter of Philip and Mary was attached to the +borough of Brecknock, by the name of Trecastle ward. + +{26} Leland, in his description of this part of Wales, mentions a +lake in Low Elvel, or Elvenia, which may perhaps be the same as that +alluded to in this passage of Giraldus. "There is a llinne in Low +Elvel within a mile of Payne's castel by the church called Lanpeder. +The llinne is caullid Bougklline, and is of no great quantite, but +is plentiful of pike, and perche, and eles." - Leland, Itin. tom. v. +p. 72. + +{27} Hay. - A pleasant market-town on the southern banks of the +river Wye, over which there is a bridge. It still retains some +marks of baronial antiquity in the old castle, within the present +town, the gateway of which is tolerably perfect. A high raised +tumulus adjoining the church marks the site of the more ancient +fortress. The more modern and spacious castle owes its foundation +probably to one of those Norman lords, who, about the year 1090, +conquered this part of Wales. Little notice is taken of this castle +in the Welsh chronicles; but we are informed that it was destroyed +in 1231, by Henry II., and that it was refortified by Henry III. + +{28} Llanddew, a small village, about two miles from Brecknock, on +the left of the road leading from thence to Hay; its manor belongs +to the bishops of Saint David's, who had formerly a castellated +mansion there, of which some ruins still remain. The tithes of this +parish are appropriated to the archdeaconry of Brecknock, and here +was the residence of our author Giraldus, which he mentions in +several of his writings, and alludes to with heartfelt satisfaction +at the end of the third chapter of this Itinerary. + +{29} Aberhodni, the ancient name of the town and castle of +Brecknock, derived from its situation at the confluence of the river +Hodni with the Usk. The castle and two religious buildings, of +which the remains are still extant, owed their foundation to Bernard +de Newmarch, a Norman knight, who, in the year 1090, obtained by +conquest the lordship of Brecknock. [The modern Welsh name is +Aberhonddu.] + +{30} Iestyn ap Gwrgant was lord of the province of Morganwg, or +Glamorgan, and a formidable rival to Rhys ap Tewdwr, prince of South +Wales; but unable to cope with him in power, he prevailed on Robert +Fitzhamon, a Norman knight, to come to his assistance. + +{31} This little river rises near the ruins of Blanllyfni castle, +between Llangorse pool and the turnpike road leading from Brecknock +to Abergavenny, and empties itself into the river Usk, near +Glasbury. + +{32} A pretty little village on the southern banks of the Usk, +about four miles from Hay, on the road leading to Brecknock. + +{33} The great desolation here alluded to, is attributed by Dr. +Powel to Howel and Meredyth, sons of Edwyn ap Eineon; not to Howel, +son of Meredith. In the year 1021, they conspired against Llewelyn +ap Sitsyllt, and slew him: Meredith was slain in 1033, and Howel in +1043. + +{34} William de Breusa, or Braose, was by extraction a Norman, and +had extensive possessions in England, as well as Normandy: he was +succeeded by his son Philip, who, in the reign of William Rufus, +favoured the cause of king Henry against Robert Curthose, duke of +Normandy; and being afterwards rebellious to his sovereign, was +disinherited of his lands. By his marriage with Berta, daughter of +Milo, earl of Hereford, he gained a rich inheritance in Brecknock, +Overwent, and Gower. He left issue two sons: William and Philip: +William married Maude de Saint Wallery, and succeeded to the great +estate of his father and mother, which he kept in peaceable +possession during the reigns of king Henry II. and king Richard I. +In order to avoid the persecutions of king John, he retired with his +family to Ireland; and from thence returned into Wales; on hearing +of the king's arrival in Ireland, his wife Maude fled with her sons +into Scotland, where she was taken prisoner, and in the year 1210 +committed, with William, her son and heir, to Corf castle, and there +miserably starved to death, by order of king John; her husband, +William de Braose, escaped into France, disguised, and dying there, +was buried in the abbey church of Saint Victor, at Paris. The +family of Saint Walery, or Valery, derived their name from a sea- +port in France. + +{35} A small church dedicated to Saint David, in the suburbs of +Brecknock, on the great road leading from thence to Trecastle. "The +paroche of Llanvays, Llan-chirch-Vais extra, ac si diceres, extra +muros. It standeth betwixt the river of Uske and Tyrtorelle brooke, +that is, about the lower ende of the town of Brekenok." - Leland, +Itin. tom. v. p. 69. + +{36} David Fitzgerald was promoted to the see of Saint David's in +1147, or according to others, in 1149. He died A.D. 1176. + +{37} Now Howden, in the East Riding of Yorkshire. + +{38} Osred was king of the Northumbrians, and son of Alfred. He +commenced to reign in A.D. 791, but was deprived of his crown the +following year. + +{39} St. Kenelm was the only son and heir of Kenulfus, king of the +Mercians, who left him under the care of his two sisters, Quendreda +and Bragenilda. The former, blinded by ambition, resolved to +destroy the innocent child, who stood between her and the throne; +and for that purpose prevailed on Ascebert, who attended constantly +on the king, to murder him privately, giving him hopes, in case he +complied with her wishes, of making him her partner in the kingdom. +Under the pretence of diverting his young master, this wicked +servant led him into a retired vale at Clent, in Staffordshire, and +having murdered him, dug a pit, and cast his body into it, which was +discovered by a miracle, and carried in solemn procession to the +abbey of Winchelcomb. In the parish of Clent is a small chapel +dedicated to this saint. + +{40} Winchelcumbe, or Winchcomb, in the lower part of the hundred +of Kiftsgate, in Gloucestershire, a few miles to the north of +Cheltenham. + +{41} St. Kynauc, who flourished about the year 492, was the reputed +son of Brychan, lord of Brecknock, by Benadulved, daughter of +Benadyl, a prince of Powis, whom he seduced during the time of his +detention as an hostage at the court of her father. He is said to +have been murdered upon the mountain called the Van, and buried in +the church of Merthyr Cynawg, or Cynawg the Martyr, near Brecknock, +which is dedicated to his memory. + +{42} In Welsh, Illtyd, which has been latinised into Iltutus, as in +the instance of St. Iltutus, the celebrated disciple of Germanus, +and the master of the learned Gildas, who founded a college for the +instruction of youth at Llantwit, on the coast of Glamorganshire; +but I do not conceive this to be the same person. The name of Ty- +Illtyd, or St. Illtyd's house, is still known as Llanamllech, but it +is applied to one of those monuments of Druidical antiquity called a +cistvaen, erected upon an eminence named Maenest, at a short +distance from the village. A rude, upright stone stood formerly on +one side of it, and was called by the country people Maen Illtyd, or +Illtyd's stone, but was removed about a century ago. A well, the +stream of which divides this parish from the neighbouring one of +Llansaintfraid, is called Ffynnon Illtyd, or Illtyd's well. This +was evidently the site of the hermitage mentioned by Giraldus. + +{43} Lhanhamelach, or Llanamllech, is a small village, three miles +from Brecknock, on the road to Abergavenny. + +{44} The name of Newmarche appears in the chartulary of Battel +abbey, as a witness to one of the charters granted by William the +Conqueror to the monks of Battel in Sussex, upon his foundation of +their house. He obtained the territory of Brecknock by conquest, +from Bleddyn ap Maenarch, the Welsh regulus thereof, about the year +1092, soon after his countryman, Robert Fitzhamon, had reduced the +county of Glamorgan. He built the present town of Brecknock, where +he also founded a priory of Benedictine monks. According to Leland, +he was buried in the cloister of the cathedral church at Gloucester, +though the mutilated remains of an effigy and monument are still +ascribed to him in the priory church at Brecknock. + +{45} Brecheinoc, now Brecknockshire, had three cantreds or +hundreds, and eight comots. - 1. Cantref Selef with the comots of +Selef and Trahayern. - 2. Cantref Canol, or the middle hundred, with +the comots Talgarth, Ystradwy, and Brwynlys, or Eglyws Yail. - 3. +Cantref Mawr, or the great hundred, with the comots of Tir Raulff +Llywel, and Cerrig Howel. - Powel's description of Wales, p. 20. + +{46} Milo was son to Walter, constable of England in the reign of +Henry I., and Emme his wife, one of the daughters of Dru de Baladun, +sister to Hameline de Baladun, a person of great note, who came into +England with William the Conqueror, and, being the first lord of +Overwent in the county of Monmouth, built the castle of Abergavenny. +He was wounded by an arrow while hunting, on Christmas eve, in 1144, +and was buried in the chapter-house of Lanthoni, near Gloucester. + +{47} Walter de Clifford. The first of this ancient family was +called Ponce; he had issue three sons, Walter, Drogo or Dru, and +Richard. The Conqueror's survey takes notice of the two former, but +from Richard the genealogical line is preserved, who, being called +Richard de Pwns, obtained, as a gift from king Henry I., the cantref +Bychan, or little hundred, and the castle of Llandovery, in Wales; +he left three sons, Simon, Walter, and Richard. The Walter de +Clifford here mentioned was father to the celebrated Fair Rosamond, +the favourite of king Henry II.; and was succeeded by his eldest +son, Walter, who married Margaret, daughter to Llewelyn, prince of +Wales, and widow of John de Braose. + +{48} Brendlais, or Brynllys, is a small village on the road between +Brecknock and Hay, where a stately round tower marks the site of the +ancient castle of the Cliffords, in which the tyrant Mahel lost his +life. + +{49} St. Almedha, though not included in the ordinary lists, is +said to have been a daughter of Brychan, and sister to St. Canoc, +and to have borne the name of Elevetha, Aled, or Elyned, latinised +into Almedha. The Welsh genealogists say, that she suffered +martyrdom on a hill near Brecknock, where a chapel was erected to +her memory; and William of Worcester says she was buried at Usk. +Mr. Hugh Thomas (who wrote an essay towards the history of +Brecknockshire in the year 1698) speaks of the chapel as standing, +though unroofed and useless, in his time; the people thereabouts +call it St. Tayled. It was situated on an eminence, about a mile to +the eastward of Brecknock, and about half a mile from a farm-house, +formerly the mansion and residence of the Aubreys, lords of the +manor of Slwch, which lordship was bestowed upon Sir Reginald Awbrey +by Bernard Newmarche, in the reign of William Rufus. Some small +vestiges of this building may still be traced, and an aged yew tree, +with a well at its foot, marks the site near which the chapel +formerly stood. + +{50} This same habit is still (in Sir Richard Colt Hoare's time) +used by the Welsh ploughboys; they have a sort of chaunt, consisting +of half or even quarter notes, which is sung to the oxen at plough: +the countrymen vulgarly supposing that the beasts are consoled to +work more regularly and patiently by such a lullaby. + +{51} The umber, or grayling, is still a plentiful and favourite +fish in the rivers on the Welsh border. + +{52} About the year 1113, "there was a talke through South Wales, +of Gruffyth, the sonne of Rees ap Theodor, who, for feare of the +king, had beene of a child brought up in Ireland, and had come over +two yeares passed, which time he had spent privilie with his +freends, kinsfolks, and affines; as with Gerald, steward of +Penbrooke, his brother-in-law, and others. But at the last he was +accused to the king, that he intended the kingdome of South Wales as +his father had enjoied it, which was now in the king's hands; and +that all the countrie hoped of libertie through him; therefore the +king sent to take him. But Gryffyth ap Rees hering this, sent to +Gruffyth ap Conan, prince of North Wales, desiring him of his aid, +and that he might remaine safelie within his countrie; which he +granted, and received him joiouslie for his father's sake." He +afterwards proved so troublesome and successful an antagonist, that +the king endeavoured by every possible means to get him into his +power. To Gruffyth ap Conan he offered "mountaines of gold to send +the said Gruffyth or his head to him." And at a subsequent period, +he sent for Owen ap-Cadogan said to him, "Owen, I have found thee +true and faithful unto me, therefore I desire thee to take or kill +that murtherer, that doth so trouble my loving subjects." But +Gruffyth escaped all the snares which the king had laid for him, and +in the year 1137 died a natural and honourable death; he is styled +in the Welsh chronicle, "the light, honor, and staie of South +Wales;" and distinguished as the bravest, the wisest, the most +merciful, liberal, and just, of all the princes of Wales. By his +wife Gwenllian, the daughter of Gruffyth ap Conan, he left a son, +commonly called the lord Rhys, who met the archbishop at Radnor, as +is related in the first chapter of this Itinerary. + +{53} This cantref, which now bears the name of Caeo, is placed, +according to the ancient divisions of Wales, in the cantref Bychan, +or little hundred, and not in the Cantref Mawr, or great hundred. A +village between Lampeter in Cardiganshire and Llandovery in +Caermarthenshire, still bears the name of Cynwil Caeo, and, from its +picturesque situation and the remains of its mines, which were +probably worked by the Romans, deserves the notice of the curious +traveller. + +{54} The lake of Brecheinoc bears the several names of Llyn +Savaddan, Brecinau-mere, Llangorse, and Talyllyn Pool, the two +latter of which are derived from the names of parishes on its banks. +It is a large, though by no means a beautiful, piece of water, its +banks being low and flat, and covered with rushes and other aquatic +plants to a considerable distance from the shore. Pike, perch, and +eels are the common fish of this water; tench and trout are rarely, +I believe, (if ever), taken in it. The notion of its having +swallowed up an ancient city is not yet quite exploded by the +natives; and some will even attribute the name of Loventium to it; +which is with much greater certainty fixed at Llanio-isau, between +Lampeter and Tregaron, in Cardiganshire, on the northern banks of +the river Teivi, where there are very considerable and undoubted +remains of a large Roman city. The legend of the town at the bottom +of the lake is at the same time very old. + +{55} That chain of mountains which divides Brecknockshire from +Caermarthenshire, over which the turnpike road formerly passed from +Trecastle to Llandovery, and from which the river Usk derives its +source. + +{56} This mountain is now called, by way of eminence, the Van, or +the height, but more commonly, by country people, Bannau Brycheinog, +or the Brecknock heights, alluding to its two peaks. Our author, +Giraldus, seems to have taken his account of the spring, on the +summit of this mountain, from report, rather than from ocular +testimony. I (Sir R. Colt Hoare) examined the summits of each peak +very attentively, and could discern no spring whatever. The soil is +peaty and very boggy. On the declivity of the southern side of the +mountain, and at no considerable distance from the summit, is a +spring of very fine water, which my guide assured me never failed. +On the north-west side of the mountain is a round pool, in which +possibly trout may have been sometimes found, but, from the muddy +nature of its waters, I do not think it very probable; from this +pool issues a small brook, which falls precipitously down the sides +of the mountain, and pursuing its course through a narrow and well- +wooded valley, forms a pretty cascade near a rustic bridge which +traverses it. I am rather inclined think, that Giraldus confounded +in his account the spring and the pool together. + +{57} The first of these are now styled the Black Mountains, of +which the Gadair Fawr is the principal, and is only secondary to the +Van in height. The Black Mountains are an extensive range of hills +rising to the east of Talgarth, in the several parishes of Talgarth, +Llaneliew, and Llanigorn, in the county of Brecknock, and connected +with the heights of Ewyas. The most elevated point is called Y +Gadair, and, excepting the Brecknock Van (the Cadair Arthur of +Giraldus), is esteemed the highest mountain in South Wales. The +mountains of Ewyas are those now called the Hatterel Hills, rising +above the monastery of Llanthoni, and joining the Black Mountains of +Talgarth at Capel y Ffin, or the chapel upon the boundary, near +which the counties of Hereford, Brecknock, and Monmouth form a point +of union. But English writers have generally confounded all +distinction, calling them indiscriminately the Black Mountains, or +the Hatterel Hills. + +{58} If we consider the circumstances of this chapter, it will +appear very evidently, that the vale of Ewyas made no part of the +actual Itinerary. + +{59} Landewi Nant Hodeni, or the church of St. David on the Hodni, +is now better known by the name of Llanthoni abbey. A small and +rustic chapel, dedicated to St. David, at first occupied the site of +this abbey; in the year 1103, William de Laci, a Norman knight, +having renounced the pleasures of the world, retired to this +sequestered spot, where he was joined in his austere profession by +Ernicius, chaplain to queen Maude. In the year 1108, these hermits +erected a mean church in the place of their hermitage, which was +consecrated by Urban, bishop of Llandaff, and Rameline, bishop of +Hereford, and dedicated to St. John the Baptist: having afterward +received very considerable benefactions from Hugh de Laci, and +gained the consent of Anselm, archbishop of Canterbury, these same +hermits founded a magnificent monastery for Black canons, of the +order of St. Augustine, which they immediately filled with forty +monks collected from the monasteries of the Holy Trinity in London, +Merton in Surrey, and Colchester in Essex. They afterwards removed +to Gloucester, where they built a church and spacious monastery, +which, after the name of their former residence, they called +Llanthoni; it was consecrated A.D. 1136, by Simon, bishop of +Worcester, and Robert Betun bishop of Hereford, and dedicated to the +Virgin Mary. + +{60} The titles of mother and daughter are here applied to the +mother church in Wales, and the daughter near Gloucester. + +{61} William of Wycumb, the fourth prior of Llanthoni, succeeded to +Robert de Braci, who was obliged to quit the monastery, on account +of the hostile molestation it received from the Welsh. To him +succeeded Clement, the sub-prior, and to Clement, Roger de Norwich. + +{62} Walter de Laci came into England with William the Conqueror, +and left three sons, Roger, Hugh, and Walter. Hugh de Laci was the +lord of Ewyas, and became afterwards the founder of the convent of +Llanthoni; his elder brother, Robert, held also four caracutes of +land within the limits of the castle of Ewyas, which king William +had bestowed on Walter, his father; but joining in rebellion against +William Rufus, he was banished the kingdom, and all his lands were +given to his brother Hugh, who died without issue. + +{63} This anecdote is thus related by the historian Hollinshed: +"Hereof it came on a time, whiles the king sojourned in France about +his warres, which he held against king Philip, there came unto him a +French priest, whose name was Fulco, who required the king in +anywise to put from him three abominable daughters which he had, and +to bestow them in marriage, least God punished him for them. 'Thou +liest, hypocrite (said the king), to thy verie face; for all the +world knoweth I have not one daughter.' 'I lie not (said the +priest), for thou hast three daughters: one of them is called +Pride, the second Covetousness, and the third Lecherie.' With that +the king called to him his lords and barons, and said to them, 'This +hypocrite heere hath required me to marry awaie my three daughters, +which (as he saith) I cherish, nourish, foster, and mainteine; that +is to say, Pride, Covetousness, and Lecherie: and now that I have +found out necessarie and fit husbands for them, I will do it with +effect, and seeks no more delaies. I therefore bequeath my pride to +the high-minded Templars and Hospitallers, which are as proud as +Lucifer himselfe; my covetousness I give unto the White Monks, +otherwise called of the Cisteaux order, for they covet the divell +and all; my lecherie I commit to the prelats of the church, who have +most pleasure and felicitie therein.'" + +{64} This small residence of the archdeacon was at Landeu, a place +which has been described before: the author takes this opportunity +of hinting at his love of literature, religion, and mediocrity. + +{65} The last chapter having been wholly digressive, we must now +recur back to Brecknock, or rather, perhaps, to our author's +residence at Landeu, where we left him, and from thence accompany +him to Abergavenny. It appears that from Landeu he took the road to +Talgarth, a small village a little to the south east of the road +leading from Brecknock to Hay; from whence, climbing up a steep +ascent, now called Rhiw Cwnstabl, or the Constable's ascent, he +crossed the black mountains of Llaneliew to the source of the +Gronwy-fawr river, which rises in that eminence, and pursues its +rapid course into the Vale of Usk. From thence a rugged and uneven +track descends suddenly into a narrow glen, formed by the torrent of +the Gronwy, between steep, impending mountains; bleak and barren for +the first four or five miles, but afterwards wooded to the very +margin of the stream. A high ledge of grassy hills on the left +hand, of which the principal is called the Bal, or Y Fal, divides +this formidable pass (the "Malus passus" of Giraldus) from the vale +of Ewyas, in which stands the noble monastery of Llanthoni, +"montibus suis inclusum," encircled by its mountains. The road at +length emerging from this deep recess of Coed Grono, or Cwm Gronwy, +the vale of the river Gronwy, crosses the river at a place called +Pont Escob, or the Bishop's bridge, probably so called from this +very circumstance of its having been now passed by the archbishop +and his suite, and is continued through the forest of Moel, till it +joins the Hereford road, about two miles from Abergavenny. This +formidable defile is at least nine miles in length. + +{66} In the vale of the Gronwy, about a mile above Pont Escob, +there is a wood called Coed Dial, or the Wood of Revenge. Here +again, by the modern name of the place, we are enabled to fix the +very spot on which Richard de Clare was murdered. The Welsh +Chronicle informs us, that "in 1135, Morgan ap Owen, a man of +considerable quality and estate in Wales, remembering the wrong and +injury he had received at the hands of Richard Fitz-Gilbert, slew +him, together with his son Gilbert." The first of this great +family, Richard de Clare, was the eldest son of Gislebert, surnamed +Crispin, earl of Brion, in Normandy. This Richard Fitz-Gilbert came +into England with William the Conqueror, and received from him great +advancement in honour and possessions. On the death of the +Conqueror, favouring the cause of Robert Curthose, he rebelled +against William Rufus, but when that king appeared in arms before +his castle at Tunbridge, he submitted; after which, adhering to +Rufus against Robert, in 1091, he was taken prisoner, and shortly +after the death of king Henry I., was assassinated, on his journey +through Wales, in the manner already related. + +{67} Hamelin, son of Dru de Baladun, who came into England with +William the Conqueror, was the first lord of Over-Went, and built a +castle at Abergavenny, on the same spot where, according to ancient +tradition, a giant called Agros had erected a fortress. He died in +the reign of William Rufus, and was buried in the priory which he +had founded at Abergavenny; having no issue, he gave the aforesaid +castle and lands to Brian de Insula, or Brian de Wallingford, his +nephew, by his sister Lucia. The enormous excesses mentioned by +Giraldus, as having been perpetrated in this part of Wales during +his time, seem to allude to a transaction that took place in the +castle of Abergavenny, in the year 1176, which is thus related by +two historians, Matthew Paris and Hollinshed. "A.D. 1176, The same +yeare, William de Breause having got a great number of Welshmen into +the castle of Abergavennie, under a colourable pretext of +communication, proposed this ordinance to be received of them with a +corporall oth, 'That no traveller by the waie amongst them should +beare any bow, or other unlawful weapon,' which oth, when they +refused to take, because they would not stand to that ordinance, he +condemned them all to death. This deceit he used towards them, in +revenge of the death of his uncle Henrie of Hereford, whom upon +Easter-even before they had through treason murthered, and were now +acquited was the like againe." - Hollinshed, tom. ii. p. 95. + +{68} Landinegat, or the church of St. Dingad, is now better known +by the name of Dingatstow, or Dynastow, a village near Monmouth. + +{69} [For the end of William de Braose, see footnote 34.] + +{70} Leland divides this district into Low, Middle, and High +Venteland, extending from Chepstow to Newport on one side, and to +Abergavenny on the other; the latter of which, he says, "maketh the +cumpace of Hye Venteland." He adds, "The soyle of al Venteland is +of a darke reddische yerth ful of slaty stones, and other greater of +the same color. The countrey is also sumwhat montayneus, and welle +replenishid with woodes, also very fertyle of corne, but men there +study more to pastures, the which be well inclosed." - Leland, Itin. +tom. v. p. 6. Ancient Gwentland is now comprised within the county +of Monmouth. + +{71} William de Salso Marisco, who succeeded to the bishopric of +Llandaff, A.D. 1185, and presided over that see during the time of +Baldwin's visitation, in 1188. + +{72} Alexander was the fourth archdeacon of the see of Bangor. + +{73} Once at Usk, then at Caerleon, and afterwards on entering the +town of Newport. + +{74} Gouldcliffe, or Goldcliff, is situated a few miles S.E. of +Newport, on the banks of the Severn. In the year 1113, Robert de +Candos founded and endowed the church of Goldclive, and, by the +advice of king Henry I., gave it to the abbey of Bec, in Normandy; +its religious establishment consisted of a prior and twelve monks of +the order of St. Benedict. + +{75} [Geoffrey of Monmouth.] + +{76} The Cistercian abbey here alluded to was known by the several +names of Ystrat Marchel, Strata Marcella, Alba domus de Stratmargel, +Vallis Crucis, or Pola, and was situated between Guilsfield and +Welshpool, in Montgomeryshire. Authors differ in opinion about its +original founder. Leland attributes it to Owen Cyveilioc, prince of +Powys, and Dugdale to Madoc, the son of Gruffydh, giving for his +authority the original grants and endowments of this abbey. +According to Tanner, about the beginning of the reign of king Edward +III., the Welsh monks were removed from hence into English abbeys, +and English monks were placed here, and the abbey was made subject +to the visitation of the abbot and convent of Buildwas, in +Shropshire. + +{77} Cardiff, i.e., the fortress on the river Taf. + +{78} Gwentluc - so called from Gwent, the name of the province, and +llug, open, to distinguish it from the upper parts of Wentland, is +an extensive tract of flat, marshy ground, reaching from Newport to +the shores of the river Severn. + +{79} Nant Pencarn, or the brook of Pencarn. - After a very +attentive examination of the country round Newport, by natives of +that place, and from the information I have received on the subject, +I am inclined to think that the river here alluded to was the Ebwy, +which flows about a mile and a half south of Newport. Before the +new turnpike road and bridge were made across Tredegar Park, the old +road led to a ford lower down the river, and may still be travelled +as far as Cardiff; and was probably the ford mentioned in the text, +as three old farm-houses in its neighbourhood still retain the names +of Great Pencarn, Little Pencarn, and Middle Pencarn. + +{80} Robert Fitz-Hamon, earl of Astremeville, in Normandy, came +into England with William the Conqueror; and, by the gift of William +Rufus, obtained the honour of Gloucester. He was wounded with a +spear at the siege of Falaise, in Normandy, died soon afterwards, +and was buried, A.D. 1102, in the abbey of Tewkesbury, which he had +founded. Leaving no male issue, king Henry gave his eldest +daughter, Mabel, or Maude, who, in her own right, had the whole +honour of Gloucester, to his illegitimate son Robert, who was +advanced to the earldom of Gloucester by the king, his father. He +died A.D. 1147, and left four sons: William, the personage here +mentioned by Giraldus, who succeeded him in his titles and honours; +Roger, bishop of Worcester, who died at Tours in France, A.D. 1179; +Hamon, who died at the siege of Toulouse, A.D. 1159; and Philip. + +{81} The Coychurch Manuscript quoted by Mr. Williams, in his +History of Monmouthshire, asserts that Morgan, surnamed Mwyn-fawr, +or the Gentle, the son of Athrwy, not having been elected to the +chief command of the British armies, upon his father's death retired +from Caerleon, and took up his residence in Glamorganshire, +sometimes at Radyr, near Cardiff, and at other times at Margam; and +from this event the district derived its name, quasi Gwlad-Morgan, +the country of Morgan. + +{82} St. Piranus, otherwise called St. Kiaran, or Piran, was an +Irish saint, said to have been born in the county of Ossory, or of +Cork, about the middle of the fourth century; and after that by his +labours the Gospel had made good progress, he forsook all worldly +things, and spent the remainder of his life in religious solitude. +The place of his retirement was on the sea-coast of Cornwall, and +not far from Padstow, where, as Camden informs us, there was a +chapel on the sands erected to his memory. Leland has informed us, +that the chapel of St. Perine, at Caerdiff, stood in Shoemaker +Street. + +{83} So called from a parish of that name in Glamorganshire, +situated between Monk Nash and St. Donat's, upon the Bristol +Channel. + +{84} Barri Island is situated on the coast of Glamorganshire; and, +according to Cressy, took its name from St. Baruc, the hermit, who +resided, and was buried there. The Barrys in Ireland, as well as +the family of Giraldus, who were lords of it, are said to have +derived their names from this island. Leland, in speaking of this +island, says, "The passage into Barrey isle at ful se is a flite +shot over, as much as the Tamise is above the bridge. At low water, +there is a broken causey to go over, or els over the shalow +streamelet of Barrey-brook on the sands. The isle is about a mile +in cumpace, and hath very good corne, grasse, and sum wood; the +ferme of it worth a 10 pounds a yere. There ys no dwelling in the +isle, but there is in the middle of it a fair little chapel of St. +Barrok, where much pilgrimage was usid." [The "fair little chapel" +has disappeared, and "Barry Island" is now, since the construction +of the great dock, connected with the mainland, it is covered with +houses, and its estimated capital value is now 250,000 pounds]. + +{85} William de Salso Marisco. + +{86} The see of Llandaff is said to have been founded by the +British king Lucius as early as the year 180. + +{87} From Llandaff, our crusaders proceeded towards the Cistercian +monastery of Margam, passing on their journey near the little cell +of Benedictines at Ewenith, or Ewenny. This religious house was +founded by Maurice de Londres towards the middle of the twelfth +century. It is situated in a marshy plain near the banks of the +little river Ewenny. + +{88} The Cistercian monastery of Margam, justly celebrated for the +extensive charities which its members exercised, was founded A.D. +1147, by Robert earl of Gloucester, who died in the same year. Of +this once-famed sanctuary nothing now remains but the shell of its +chapter-house, which, by neglect, has lost its most ornamental +parts. When Mr. Wyndham made the tour of Wales in the year 1777, +this elegant building was entire, and was accurately drawn and +engraved by his orders. + +{89} In continuing their journey from Neath to Swansea, our +travellers directed their course by the sea-coast to the river Avon, +which they forded, and, continuing their road along the sands, were +probably ferried over the river Neath, at a place now known by the +name of Breton Ferry, leaving the monastery of Neath at some +distance to the right: from thence traversing another tract of +sands, and crossing the river Tawe, they arrived at the castle of +Swansea, where they passed the night. + +{90} The monastery of Neath was situated on the banks of a river +bearing the same name, about a mile to the westward of the town and +castle. It was founded in 1112, by Richard de Grainville, or +Greenefeld, and Constance, his wife, for the safety of the souls of +Robert, earl of Gloucester, Maude, his wife, and William, his son. +Richard de Grainville was one of the twelve Norman knights who +accompanied Robert Fitz-Hamon, and assisted him in the conquest of +Glamorganshire. In the time of Leland this abbey was in a high +state of preservation, for he says, "Neth abbay of white monkes, a +mile above Neth town, standing in the ripe of Neth, semid to me the +fairest abbay of al Wales." - Leland, Itin. tom. v. p. 14. The +remains of the abbey and of the adjoining priory-house are +considerable; but this ancient retirement of the grey and white +monks is now occupied by the inhabitants of the neighbouring copper- +works. + +{91} Gower, the western district of Glamorganshire, appears to have +been first conquered by Henry de Newburg, earl of Warwick, soon +after Robert, duke of Gloucester, had made the conquest of the other +part of Glamorganshire. + +{92} Sweynsei, Swansea, or Abertawe, situated at the confluence of +the river Tawe with the Severn sea, is a town of considerable +commerce, and much frequented during the summer months as a bathing- +place. The old castle, now made use of as a prison, is so +surrounded by houses in the middle of the town, that a stranger +might visit Swansea without knowing that such a building existed. +The Welsh Chronicle informs us, that it was built by Henry de +Beaumont, earl of Warwick, and that in the year 1113 it was attacked +by Gruffydd ap Rhys, but without success. This castle became +afterwards a part of the possessions of the see of St. David's, and +was rebuilt by bishop Gower. [The old castle is no longer used as a +prison, but as the office of the "Cambria Daily Leader." It is +significant that Swansea is still known to Welshmen, as in the days +of Giraldus, as "Abertawe."] + +{93} Lochor, or Llwchwr, was the Leucarum mentioned in the +Itineraries, and the fifth Roman station on the Via Julia. This +small village is situated on a tide-river bearing the same name, +which divides the counties of Glamorgan and Caermarthen, and over +which there is a ferry. "Lochor river partith Kidwelli from West +Gowerlande." - Leland, Itin. tom. v. p. 23. [The ferry is no more. +The river is crossed by a fine railway bridge.] + +{94} Wendraeth, or Gwen-draeth, from gwen, white, and traeth, the +sandy beach of the sea. There are two rivers of this name, +Gwendraeth fawr, and Gwendraeth fychan, the great and the little +Gwendraeth, of which Leland thus speaks: "Vendraeth Vawr and +Vendraith Vehan risith both in Eskenning commote: the lesse an +eight milys of from Kydwelli, the other about a ten, and hath but a +little nesche of sand betwixt the places wher thei go into the se, +about a mile beneth the towne of Kidwely." + +{95} Cydweli was probably so called from cyd, a junction, and wyl, +a flow, or gushing out, being situated near the junction of the +rivers Gwendraeth fawr and fychan; but Leland gives its name a very +singular derivation, and worthy of our credulous and superstitious +author Giraldus. "Kidwely, otherwise Cathweli, i.e. Catti lectus, +quia Cattus olim solebat ibi lectum in quercu facere: - There is a +little towne now but newly made betwene Vendraith Vawr and Vendraith +Vehan. Vendraith Vawr is half a mile of." - Leland, Itin. tom. v. +p. 22. + +{96} The scene of the battle fought between Gwenllian and Maurice +de Londres is to this day called Maes Gwenllian, the plain or field +of Gwenllian; and there is a tower in the castle of Cydweli still +called Tyr Gwenllian. [Maes Gwenllian is now a small farm, one of +whose fields is said to have been the scene of the battle.] + +{97} The castle of Talachar is now better known by the name of +Llaugharne. + +{98} Much has been said and written by ancient authors respecting +the derivation of the name of this city, which is generally allowed +to be the Muridunum, or Maridunum, mentioned in the Roman +itineraries. Some derive it from Caer and Merddyn, that is, the +city of the prophet Merddyn; and others from Mur and Murddyn, which +in the British language signify a wall. There can, however, be +little doubt that it is derived simply from the Roman name +Muridunum. The county gaol occupies the site of the old castle, a +few fragments of which are seen intermixed with the houses of the +town. + +{99} Dinevor, the great castle, from dinas, a castle, and vawr, +great, was in ancient times a royal residence of the princes of +South Wales. In the year 876, Roderic the Great, having divided the +principalities of North and South Wales, and Powys land, amongst his +three sons, built for each of them a palace. The sovereignty of +South Wales, with the castle of Dinevor, fell to the lot of Cadell. +[The ruins of Dinevor Castle still crown the summit of the hill +which overshadows the town of Llandilo, 12 miles from Carmarthen.] + +{100} There is a spring very near the north side of Dinevor park +wall, which bears the name of Nant-y-rhibo, or the bewitched brook, +which may, perhaps, be the one here alluded to by Giraldus. + +{101} Pencadair is a small village situated to the north of +Carmarthen. + +{102} Alba Domus was called in Welsh Ty Gwyn ar Daf, or the White +House on the river Taf. In the history of the primitive British +church, Ty Gwyn, or white house, is used in a sense equivalent to a +charter-house. The White House College, or Bangor y Ty Gwyn, is +pretended to have been founded about 480, by Paul Hen, or Paulius, a +saint of the congregation of Illtyd. From this origin, the +celebrated Cistercian monastery is said to have derived its +establishment. Powel, in his chronicle, says, "For the first abbey +or frier house that we read of in Wales, sith the destruction of the +noble house of Bangor, which savoured not of Romish dregges, was the +Tuy Gwyn, built the yeare 1146, and after they swarmed like bees +through all the countrie." (Powel, p. 254.) - Authors differ with +respect to the founder of this abbey; some have attributed it to +Rhys ap Tewdwr, prince of South Wales; and others to Bernard, bishop +of Saint David's, who died about the year 1148. The latter account +is corroborated by the following passage in Wharton's Anglia Sacra: +"Anno 1143 ducti sunt monachi ordinis Cisterciensis qui modo sunt +apud Albam Landam, in West Walliam, per Bernardum episcopum." +Leland, in his Collectanea, says, "Whitland, abbat. Cistert., +Rhesus filius Theodori princeps Suth Walliae primus fundator;" and +in his Itinerary, mentions it as a convent of Bernardynes, "which +yet stondeth." + +{103} Saint Clears is a long, straggling village, at the junction +of the river Cathgenny with the Taf. Immediately on the banks of +the former, and not far from its junction with the latter, stood the +castle, of which not one stone is left; but the artificial tumulus +on which the citadel was placed, and other broken ground, mark its +ancient site. + +{104} Lanwadein, now called Lawhaden, is a small village about four +miles from Narberth, on the banks of the river Cleddeu. + +{105} Daugleddeu, so called from Dau, two, and Cled, or Cleddau, a +sword. The rivers Cledheu have their source in the Prescelly +mountain, unite their streams below Haverfordwest, and run into +Milford Haven, which in Welsh is called Aberdaugleddau, or the +confluence of the two rivers Cledheu. + +{106} Haverford, now called Haverfordwest, is a considerable town +on the river Cledheu, with an ancient castle, three churches, and +some monastic remains. The old castle (now used as the county +gaol), from its size and commanding situation, adds greatly to the +picturesque appearance of this town. [The old castle is no longer +used as a gaol.] + +{107} The province of Rhos, in which the town of Haverfordwest is +situated, was peopled by a colony of Flemings during the reign of +king Henry I. + +{108} St. Caradoc was born of a good family in Brecknockshire, and +after a liberal education at home, attached himself to the court of +Rhys Prince of South Wales, whom he served a long time with +diligence and fidelity. He was much esteemed and beloved by him, +till having unfortunately lost two favourite greyhounds, which had +been committed to his care, that prince, in a fury, threatened his +life; upon which Caradoc determined to change masters, and made a +vow on the spot to consecrate the remainder of his days to God, by a +single and religious life. He went to Llandaff, received from its +bishop the clerical tonsure and habit, and retired to the deserted +church of St. Kined, and afterwards to a still more solitary abode +in the Isle of Ary, from whence he was taken prisoner by some +Norwegian pirates, but soon released. His last place of residence +was at St. Ismael, in the province of Rhos, where he died in 1124, +and was buried with great honour in the cathedral of St. David's. +We must not confound this retreat of Caradoc with the village of St. +Ismael on the borders of Milford Haven. His hermitage was situated +in the parish of Haroldstone, near the town of Haverfordwest, whose +church has St. Ismael for its patron, and probably near a place +called Poorfield, the common on which Haverfordwest races are held, +as there is a well there called Caradoc's Well, round which, till +within these few years, there was a sort of vanity fair, where cakes +were sold, and country games celebrated. [Caradoc was canonised by +Pope Innocent III. at the instance of Giraldus.] + +{109} This curious superstition is still preserved, in a debased +form, among the descendants of the Flemish population of this +district, where the young women practise a sort of divination with +the bladebone of a shoulder of mutton to discover who will be their +sweetheart. It is still more curious that William de Rubruquis, in +the thirteenth century, found the same superstition existing among +the Tartars. + +{110} Arnulph, younger son of Roger de Montgomery, did his homage +for Dyved, and is said, by our author, to have erected a slender +fortress with stakes and turf at Pembroke, in the reign of king +Henry I., which, however, appears to have been so strong as to have +resisted the hostile attack of Cadwgan ap Bleddyn in 1092, and of +several lords of North Wales, in 1094. + +{111} Walter Fitz-Other, at the time of the general survey of +England by William the Conqueror, was castellan of Windsor, warden +of the forests in Berkshire, and possessed several lordships in the +counties of Middlesex, Hampshire, and Buckinghamshire, which dominus +Otherus is said to have held in the time of Edward the Confessor. +William, the eldest son of Walter, took the surname of Windsor from +his father's office, and was ancestor to the lords Windsor, who have +since been created earls of Plymouth: and from Gerald, brother of +William, the Geralds, Fitz-geralds, and many other families are +lineally descended. The Gerald here mentioned by Giraldus is +sometimes surnamed De Windsor, and also Fitz-Walter, i.e. the son of +Walter; having slain Owen, son of Cadwgan ap Bleddyn, chief lord of +Cardiganshire, he was made president of the county of Pembroke. + +{112} Wilfred is mentioned by Browne Willis in his list of bishops +of St. David's, as the forty-seventh, under the title of Wilfride, +or Griffin: he died about the year 1116. + +{113} Maenor Pyrr, now known by the name of Manorbeer, is a small +village on the sea coast, between Tenby and Pembroke, with the +remaining shell of a large castle. Our author has given a +farfetched etymology to this castle and the adjoining island, in +calling them the mansion and island of Pyrrhus: a much more natural +and congenial conjecture may be made in supposing Maenor Pyrr to be +derived from Maenor, a Manor, and Pyrr the plural of Por, a lord; +i.e. the Manor of the lords, and, consequently, Inys Pyrr, the +Island of the lords. As no mention whatever is made of the castle +in the Welsh Chronicle, I am inclined to think it was only a +castellated mansion, and therefore considered of no military +importance in those days of continued warfare throughout Wales. It +is one of the most interesting spots in our author's Itinerary, for +it was the property of the Barri family, and the birth-place of +Giraldus; in the parish church, the sepulchral effigy of a near +relation, perhaps a brother, is still extant, in good preservation. +Our author has evidently made a digression in order to describe this +place. + +{114} The house of Stephen Wiriet was, I presume, Orielton. There +is a monument in the church of St. Nicholas, at Pembroke, to the +memory of John, son and heir of Sir Hugh Owen, of Bodeon in +Anglesea, knight, and Elizabeth, daughter and heir of George Wiriet, +of Orielton, A.D. 1612. + +{115} The family name of Not, or Nott, still exists in +Pembrokeshire. [The descendants of Sir Hugh continued to live at +Orielton, and the title is still in existence.] + +{116} There are two churches in Pembrokeshire called Stackpoole, +one of which, called Stackpoole Elidor, derived its name probably +from the Elidore de Stakepole mentioned in this chapter by Giraldus. +It contains several ancient monuments, and amongst them the effigies +of a cross-legged knight, which has been for many years attributed +to the aforesaid Elidore. + +{117} Ramsey Island, near St. David's, was always famous for its +breed of falcons. + +{118} Camros, a small village, containing nothing worthy of remark, +excepting a large tumulus. It appears, by this route of the +Crusaders, that the ancient road to Menevia, or St. David's, led +through Camros, whereas the present turnpike road lies a mile and a +half to the left of it. It then descends to Niwegal Sands, and +passes near the picturesque little harbour of Solvach, situated in a +deep and narrow cove, surrounded by high rocks. + +{119} The remains of vast submerged forests are commonly found on +many parts of the coast of Wales, especially in the north. Giraldus +has elsewhere spoken of this event in the Vaticinal History, book i. +chap. 35. + +{120} Giraldus, ever glad to pun upon words, here opposes the word +NOMEN to OMEN. "Plus nominis habens quem ominis." He may have +perhaps borrowed this expression from Plautus. Plautus Delphini, +tom. ii. p. 27. - Actus iv., Scena iv. + +{121} Armorica is derived from the Celtic words Ar and Mor, which +signify on or near the sea, and so called to distinguish it from the +more inland parts of Britany. The maritime cities of Gaul were +called "Armoricae civitates - Universis civitatibus quae oceanum +attingunt, quaeque Gallorum consuetudine Armoricae appellantur." - +Caesar. Comment, lib. vii. + +{122} The bishops of Hereford, Worcester, Llandaff, Bangor, St. +Asaph, Llanbadarn, and Margam, or Glamorgan. + +{123} The value of the carucate is rather uncertain, or, probably, +it varied in different districts according to the character of the +land; but it is considered to have been usually equivalent to a +hide, that is, to about 240 statute acres. + +{124} This little brook does not, in modern times, deserve the +title here given to it by Giraldus, for it produces trout of a most +delicious flavour. + +{125} See the Vaticinal History, book i. c. 37. + +{126} Lechlavar, so called from the words in Welsh, Llec, a stone, +and Llavar, speech. + +{127} Cemmeis, Cemmaes, Kemes, and Kemeys. Thus is the name of +this district variously spelt. Cemmaes in Welsh signifies a circle +or amphitheatre for games. + +{128} [Cardigan.] + +{129} There is place in Cemmaes now called Tre-liffan, i.e. Toad's +town; and over a chimney-piece in the house there is a figure of a +toad sculptured in marble, said to have been brought from Italy, and +intended probably to confirm and commemorate this tradition of +Giraldus. + +{130} Preseleu, Preselaw, Prescelly, Presselw. + +{131} St. Bernacus is said, by Cressy, to have been a man of +admirable sanctity, who, through devotion, made a journey to Rome; +and from thence returning into Britany, filled all places with the +fame of his piety and miracles. He is commemorated on the 7th of +April. Several churches in Wales were dedicated to him; one of +which, called Llanfyrnach, or the church of St. Bernach, is situated +on the eastern side of the Prescelley mountain. + +{132} The "castrum apud Lanhever" was at Nevern, a small village +between Newport and Cardigan, situated on the banks of a little +river bearing the same name which discharges itself into the sea at +Newport. On a hill immediately above the western side of the parish +church, is the site of a large castle, undoubtedly the one alluded +to by Giraldus. + +{133} On the Cemmaes, or Pembrokeshire side of the river Teivi, and +near the end of the bridge, there is a place still called Park y +Cappel, or the Chapel Field, which is undoubtedly commemorative of +the circumstance recorded by our author. + +{134} Now known by the name of Kenarth, which may be derived from +Cefn y garth - the back of the wear, a ridge of land behind the +wear. + +{135} The name of St. Ludoc is not found in the lives of the +saints. Leland mentions a St. Clitauc, who had a church dedicated +to him in South Wales, and who was killed by some of his companions +whilst hunting. "Clitaucus Southe-Walliae regulus inter venandum a +suis sodalibus occisus est. Ecciesia S. Clitauci in Southe Wallia." +- Leland, Itin., tom. viii. p. 95. + +{136} The Teivy is still very justly distinguished for the quantity +and quality of its salmon, but the beaver no longer disturbs its +streams. That this animal did exist in the days of Howel Dha +(though even then a rarity), the mention made of it in his laws, and +the high price set upon its skin, most clearly evince; but if the +castor of Giraldus, and the avanc of Humphrey Llwyd and of the Welsh +dictionaries, be really the same animal, it certainly was not +peculiar to the Teivi, but was equally known in North Wales, as the +names of places testify. A small lake in Montgomeryshire is called +Llyn yr Afangc; a pool in the river Conwy, not far from Bettws, +bears the same name, and the vale called Nant Ffrancon, upon the +river Ogwen, in Caernarvonshire, is supposed by the natives to be a +corruption from Nant yr Afan cwm, or the Vale of the Beavers. Mr. +Owen, in his dictionary, says, "That it has been seen in this vale +within the memory of man." Giraldus has previously spoken of the +beaver in his Topography of Ireland, Distinc. i. c. 21. + +{137} Our author having made a long digression, in order to +introduce the history of the beaver, now continues his Itinerary. +From Cardigan, the archbishop proceeded towards Pont-Stephen, +leaving a hill, called Cruc Mawr, on the left hand, which still +retains its ancient name, and agrees exactly with the position given +to it by Giraldus. On its summit is a tumulus, and some appearance +of an intrenchment. + +{138} In 1135. + +{139} Lampeter, or Llanbedr, a small town near the river Teivi, +still retains the name of Pont-Stephen. + +{140} Leland thus speaks of Ystrad Fflur or Strata Florida: +"Strateflere is set round about with montanes not far distant, +except on the west parte, where Diffrin Tyve is. Many hilles +therabout hath bene well woddid, as evidently by old rotes apperith, +but now in them is almost no woode - the causes be these. First, +the wood cut down was never copisid, and this hath beene a cause of +destruction of wood thorough Wales. Secondly, after cutting down of +woodys, the gottys hath so bytten the young spring that it never +grew but lyke shrubbes. Thirddely, men for the monys destroied the +great woddis that thei should not harborow theves." This monastery +is situated in the wildest part of Cardiganshire, surrounded on +three sides by a lofty range of those mountains, called by our +author Ellennith; a spot admirably suited to the severe and recluse +order of the Cistercians. + +{141} [Melenydd or Maelienydd.] + +{142} Leaving Stratflur, the archbishop and his train returned to +Llanddewi Brefi, and from thence proceeded to Llanbadarn Vawr. + +{143} Llanbadarn Fawr, the church of St. Paternus the Great, is +situated in a valley, at a short distance from the sea-port town of +Aberystwyth in Cardiganshire. + +{144} The name of this bishop is said to have been Idnerth, and the +same personage whose death is commemorated in an inscription at +Llanddewi Brefi. + +{145} This river is now called Dovey. + +{146} From Llanbadarn our travellers directed their course towards +the sea-coast, and ferrying over the river Dovey, which separates +North from South Wales, proceeded to Towyn, in Merionethshire, where +they passed the night. [Venedotia is the Latin name for Gwynedd.] + +{147} The province of Merionyth was at this period occupied by +David, the son of Owen Gwynedd, who had seized it forcibly from its +rightful inheritor. This Gruffydd - who must not be confused with +his great-grandfather, the famous Gruffydd ap Conan, prince of +Gwynedd - was son to Conan ap Owen Gwynedd; he died A.D. 1200, and +was buried in a monk's cowl, in the abbey of Conway. + +{148} The epithet "bifurcus," ascribed by Giraldus to the river +Maw, alludes to its two branches, which unite their streams a little +way below Llaneltid bridge, and form an aestuary, which flows down +to the sea at Barmouth or Aber Maw. The ford at this place, +discovered by Malgo, no longer exists. + +{149} Llanfair is a small village, about a mile and a half from +Harlech, with a very simple church, placed in a retired spot, backed +by precipitous mountains. Here the archbishop and Giraldus slept, +on their journey from Towyn to Nevyn. + +{150} Ardudwy was a comot of the cantref Dunodic, in +Merionethshire, and according to Leland, "Streccith from half Trait +Mawr to Abermaw on the shore XII myles." The bridge here alluded +to, was probably over the river Artro, which forms a small aestuary +near the village of Llanbedr. + +{151} The Traeth Mawr, or the large sands, are occasioned by a +variety of springs and rivers which flow from the Snowdon mountains, +and, uniting their streams, form an aestuary below Pont Aberglaslyn. + +{152} The Traeth Bychan, or the small sands, are chiefly formed by +the river which runs down the beautiful vale of Festiniog to +Maentwrog and Tan y bwlch, near which place it becomes navigable. +Over each of these sands the road leads from Merionyth into +Caernarvonshire. + +{153} Lleyn, the Canganorum promontorium of Ptolemy, was an +extensive hundred containing three comots, and comprehending that +long neck of land between Caernarvon and Cardigan bays. Leland +says, "Al Lene is as it were a pointe into the se." + +{154} In mentioning the rivers which the missionaries had lately +crossed, our author has been guilty of a great topographical error +in placing the river Dissennith between the Maw and Traeth Mawr, as +also in placing the Arthro between the Traeth Mawr and Traeth +Bychan, as a glance at a map will shew. + +{155} To two personages of this name the gift of prophecy was +anciently attributed: one was called Ambrosius, the other +Sylvestris; the latter here mentioned (and whose works Giraldus, +after a long research, found at Nefyn) was, according to the story, +the son of Morvryn, and generally called Merddin Wyllt, or Merddin +the Wild. He is pretended to have flourished about the middle of +the sixth century, and ranked with Merddin Emrys and Taliesin, under +the appellation of the three principal bards of the Isle of Britain. + +{156} This island once afforded, according to the old accounts, an +asylum to twenty thousand saints, and after death, graves to as many +of their bodies; whence it has been called Insula Sanctorum, the +Isle of Saints. This island derived its British name of Enlli from +the fierce current which rages between it and the main land. The +Saxons named it Bardsey, probably from the Bards, who retired +hither, preferring solitude to the company of invading foreigners. + +{157} This ancient city has been recorded by a variety of names. +During the time of the Romans it was called Segontium, the site of +which is now called Caer Seiont, the fortress on the river Seiont, +where the Setantiorum portus, and the Seteia AEstuarium of Ptolemy +have also been placed. It is called, by Nennius, Caer Custent, or +the city of Constantius; and Matthew of Westminster says, that about +the year 1283 the body of Constantius, father of the emperor +Constantine, was found there, and honourably desposited in the +church by order of Edward I. + +{158} I have searched in vain for a valley which would answer the +description here given by Geraldus, and the scene of so much +pleasantry to the travellers; for neither do the old or new road, +from Caernarvon to Bangor, in any way correspond. But I have since +been informed, that there is a valley called Nant y Garth (near the +residence of Ashton Smith, Esq. at Vaenol), which terminates at +about half a mile's distance from the Menai, and therefore not +observable from the road; it is a serpentine ravine of more than a +mile, in a direction towards the mountains, and probably that which +the crusaders crossed on their journey to Bangor. + +{159} Bangor. - This cathedral church must not be confounded with +the celebrated college of the same name, in Flintshire, founded by +Dunod Vawr, son of Pabo, a chieftain who lived about the beginning +of the sixth century, and from him called Bangor Dunod. The Bangor, +i.e. the college, in Caernarvonshire, is properly called Bangor +Deiniol, Bangor Vawr yn Arllechwedd, and Bangor Vawr uwch Conwy. It +owes its origin to Deiniol, son of Dunod ap Pabo, a saint who lived +in the early part of the sixth century, and in the year 525 founded +this college at Bangor, in Caernarvonshire, over which he presided +as abbot. Guy Rufus, called by our author Guianus, was at this time +bishop of this see, and died in 1190. + +{160} Guianus, or Guy Rufus, dean of Waltham, in Essex, and +consecrated to this see, at Ambresbury, Wilts, in May 1177. + +{161} Mona, or Anglesey. + +{162} The spot selected by Baldwin for addressing the multitude, +has in some degree been elucidated by the anonymous author of the +Supplement to Rowland's Mona Antiqua. He says, that "From tradition +and memorials still retained, we have reasons to suppose that they +met in an open place in the parish of Landisilio, called Cerrig y +Borth. The inhabitants, by the grateful remembrance, to perpetuate +the honour of that day, called the place where the archbishop stood, +Carreg yr Archjagon, i.e. the Archbishop's Rock; and where prince +Roderic stood, Maen Roderic, or the Stone of Roderic." This account +is in part corroborated by the following communication from Mr. +Richard Llwyd of Beaumaris, who made personal inquiries on the spot. +"Cerrig y Borth, being a rough, undulating district, could not, for +that reason, have been chosen for addressing a multitude; but +adjoining it there are two eminences which command a convenient +surface for that purpose; one called Maen Rodi (the Stone or Rock of +Roderic), the property of Owen Williams, Esq.; and the other Carreg +Iago, belonging to Lord Uxbridge. This last, as now pronounced, +means the Rock of St. James; but I have no difficulty in admitting, +that Carreg yr Arch Iagon may (by the compression of common, +undiscriminating language, and the obliteration of the event from +ignorant minds by the lapse of so many centuries) be contracted into +Carreg Iago. Cadair yr archesgob is now also contracted into Cadair +(chair, a seat naturally formed in the rock, with a rude arch over +it, on the road side, which is a rough terrace over the breast of a +rocky and commanding cliff, and the nearest way from the above +eminences to the insulated church of Landisilio. This word Cadair, +though in general language a chair, yet when applied to exalted +situations, means an observatory, as Cadair Idris, etc.; but there +can, in my opinion, be no doubt that this seat in the rock is that +described by the words Cadair yr Archesgob." [Still more probable, +and certainly more flattering to Giraldus, is that it was called +"Cadair yr Arch Ddiacon" (the Archdeacon's chair).] + +{163} This hundred contained the comots of Mynyw, or St. David's, +and Pencaer. + +{164} I am indebted to Mr. Richard Llwyd for the following curious +extract from a Manuscript of the late intelligent Mr. Rowlands, +respecting this miraculous stone, called Maen Morddwyd, or the stone +of the thigh, which once existed in Llanidan parish. "Hic etiam +lapis lumbi, vulgo Maen Morddwyd, in hujus caemiterii vallo locum +sibi e longo a retro tempore obtinuit, exindeque his nuperis annis, +quo nescio papicola vel qua inscia manu nulla ut olim retinente +virtute, quae tunc penitus elanguit aut vetustate evaporavit, nullo +sane loci dispendio, nec illi qui eripuit emolumento, ereptus et +deportatus fuit." + +{165} Hugh, earl of Chester. The first earl of Chester after the +Norman conquest, was Gherbod, a Fleming, who, having obtained leave +from king William to go into Flanders for the purpose of arranging +some family concerns, was taken and detained a prisoner by his +enemies; upon which the conqueror bestowed the earldom of Chester on +Hugh de Abrincis or of Avranches, "to hold as freely by the sword, +as the king himself did England by the crown." + +{166} This church is at Llandyfrydog, a small village in Twrkelin +hundred, not far distant from Llanelian, and about three miles from +the Bay of Dulas. St. Tyvrydog, to whom it was dedicated, was one +of the sons of Arwystyl Glof, a saint who lived in the latter part +of the sixth century. + +{167} Ynys Lenach, now known by the name of Priestholme Island, +bore also the title of Ynys Seiriol, from a saint who resided upon +it in the sixth century. It is also mentioned by Dugdale and +Pennant under the appellation of Insula Glannauch. + +{168} Alberic de Veer, or Vere, came into England with William the +Conqueror, and as a reward for his military services, received very +extensive possessions and lands, particularly in the county of +Essex. Alberic, his eldest son, was great chamberlain of England in +the reign of king Henry I., and was killed A.D. 1140, in a popular +tumult at London. Henry de Essex married one of his daughters named +Adeliza. He enjoyed, by inheritance, the office of standard-bearer, +and behaved himself so unworthily in the military expedition which +king Henry undertook against Owen Gwynedd, prince of North Wales, in +the year 1157, by throwing down his ensign, and betaking himself to +flight, that he was challenged for this misdemeanor by Robert de +Mountford, and by him vanquished in single combat; whereby, +according to the laws of his country, his life was justly forfeited. +But the king interposing his royal mercy, spared it, but confiscated +his estates, ordering him to be shorn a monk, and placed in the +abbey of Reading. There appears to be some biographical error in +the words of Giraldus - "Filia scilicet Henrici de Essexia," for by +the genealogical accounts of the Vere and Essex families, we find +that Henry de Essex married the daughter of the second Alberic de +Vere; whereas our author seems to imply, that the mother of Alberic +the second was daughter to Henry de Essex. + +{169} "And Jacob took him rods of green poplar, and of the hazel, +and of the chesnut tree, and peeled white strakes in them, and made +the white appear which was in the rods. And he set the rods, which +he had peeled, before the flocks in the gutters in the watering +troughs, when the flocks came to drink, that they should conceive +when they came to drink. And the flocks conceived before the rods, +and brought forth cattle speckled and spotted." - Gen. xxx. + +{170} Owen Gwynedd, the son of Gruffydd ap Conan, died in 1169, and +was buried at Bangor. When Baldwin, during his progress, visited +Bangor and saw his tomb, he charged the bishop (Guy Ruffus) to +remove the body out of the cathedral, when he had a fit opportunity +so to do, in regard that archbishop Becket had excommunicated him +heretofore, because he had married his first cousin, the daughter of +Grono ap Edwyn, and that notwithstanding he had continued to live +with her till she died. The bishop, in obedience to the charge, +made a passage from the vault through the south wall of the church +underground, and thus secretly shoved the body into the churchyard. +- Hengwrt. MSS. Cadwalader brother of Owen Gwynedd, died in 1172. + +{171} The Merlin here mentioned was called Ambrosius, and according +to the Cambrian Biography flourished about the middle of the fifth +century. Other authors say, that this reputed prophet and magician +was the son of a Welsh nun, daughter of a king of Demetia, and born +at Caermarthen, and that he was made king of West Wales by +Vortigern, who then reigned in Britain. + +{172} Owen Gwynedd "left behind him manie children gotten by +diverse women, which were not esteemed by their mothers and birth, +but by their prowes and valiantnesse." By his first wife, Gladus, +the daughter of Llywarch ap Trahaern ap Caradoc, he had Orwerth +Drwyndwn, that is, Edward with the broken nose; for which defect he +was deemed unfit to preside over the principality of North Wales and +was deprived of his rightful inheritance, which was seized by his +brother David, who occupied it for the space of twenty-four years. + +{173} The travellers pursuing their journey along the sea coast, +crossed the aestuary of the river Conway under Deganwy, a fortress +of very remote antiquity. + +{174} At this period the Cistercian monastery of Conway was in its +infancy, for its foundation has been attributed to Llewelyn ap +Iorwerth, in the year 1185, (only three years previous to Baldwin's +visitation,) who endowed it with very extensive possessions and +singular privileges. Like Stratflur, this abbey was the repository +of the national records, and the mausoleum of many of its princes. + +{175} [David was the illegitimate son of Owen Gwynedd, and had +dispossessed his brother, Iorwerth Drwyndwn.] + +{176} This ebbing spring in the province of Tegeingl, or +Flintshire, has been placed by the old annotator on Giraldus at +Kilken, which Humphrey Llwyd, in his Breviary, also mentions. + +{177} See before, the Topography of Ireland, Distinc. ii. c. 7. + +{178} Saint Asaph, in size, though not in revenues, may deserve the +epithet of "paupercula" attached to it by Giraldus. From its +situation near the banks of the river Elwy, it derived the name of +Llanelwy, or the church upon the Elwy. + +{179} Leaving Llanelwy, or St. Asaph, the archbishop proceeded to +the little cell of Basinwerk, where he and his attendants passed the +night. It is situated at a short distance from Holywell, on a +gentle eminence above a valley, watered by the copious springs that +issue from St. Winefred's well, and on the borders of a marsh, which +extends towards the coast of Cheshire. + +{180} Coleshill is a township in Holywell parish, Flintshire, which +gives name to a hundred, and was so called from its abundance of +fossil fuel. Pennant, vol. i. p. 42. + +{181} The three military expeditions of king Henry into Wales, here +mentioned, were A.D. 1157, the first expedition into North Wales; +A.D. 1162, the second expedition into South Wales; A.D. 1165, the +third expedition into North Wales. In the first, the king was +obliged to retreat with considerable loss, and the king's standard- +bearer, Henry de Essex, was accused of having in a cowardly manner +abandoned the royal standard and led to a serious disaster. + +{182} The lake of Penmelesmere, or Pymplwy meer, or the meer of the +five parishes adjoining the lake, is, in modern days, better known +by the name of Bala Pool. The assertion made by Giraldus, of salmon +never being found in the lake of Bala, is not founded on truth. + +{183} Giraldus seems to have been mistaken respecting the burial- +place of the emperor Henry V., for he died May 23, A.D. 1125, at +Utrecht, and his body was conveyed to Spire for interment. + +{184} This legend, which represents king Harold as having escaped +from the battle of Hastings, and as having lived years after as a +hermit on the borders of Wales, is mentioned by other old writers, +and has been adopted as true by some modern writers. + +{185} Some difficulty occurs in fixing the situation of the Album +Monasterium, mentioned in the text, as three churches in the county +of Shropshire bore that appellation; the first at Whitchurch, the +second at Oswestry, the third at Alberbury. The narrative of our +author is so simple, and corresponds so well with the topography of +the country through which they passed, that I think no doubt ought +to be entertained about the course of their route. From Chester +they directed their way to the White Monastery, or Whitchurch, and +from thence towards Oswestry, where they slept, and were entertained +by William Fitz-Alan, after the English mode of hospitality. + +{186} By the Latin context it would appear that Reiner was bishop +of Oswestree: "Ab episcopo namque loci illius Reinerio multitudo +fuerat ante signata." Reiner succeeded Adam in the bishopric of St. +Asaph in the year 1186, and died in 1220. He had a residence near +Oswestry, at which place, previous to the arrival of Baldwin, he had +signed many of the people with the cross. + +{187} In the time of William the Conqueror, Alan, the son of +Flathald, or Flaald, obtained, by the gift of that king, the castle +of Oswaldestre, with the territory adjoining, which belonged to +Meredith ap Blethyn, a Briton. This Alan, having married the +daughter and heir to Warine, sheriff of Shropshire, had in her right +the barony of the same Warine. To him succeeded William, his son +and heir. He married Isabel de Say, daughter and heir to Helias de +Say, niece to Robert earl of Gloucester, lady of Clun, and left +issue by her, William, his son and successor, who, in the 19th Henry +II., or before, departed this life, leaving William Fitz-Alan his +son and heir, who is mentioned in the text. + +{188} Robert de Belesme, earl of Shrewsbury, was son of Roger de +Montgomery, who led the centre division of the army in that +memorable battle which secured to William the conquest of England, +and for his services was advanced to the earldoms of Arundel and +Shrewsbury. + +{189} This expedition into Wales took place A.D. 1165, and has been +already spoken of. + +{190} The princes mentioned by Giraldus as most distinguished in +North and South Wales, and most celebrated in his time, were, 1. +Owen, son of Gruffydd, in North Wales; 2. Meredyth, son of Gruffydd, +in South Wales; 3. Owen de Cyfeilioc, in Powys; 4. Cadwalader, son +of Gruffydd, in North Wales; 5. Gruffydd of Maelor in Powys; 6. +Rhys, son of Gruffydd, in South Wales; 7. David, son of Owen, in +North Wales; 8. Howel, son of Iorwerth, in South Wales. + +1. Owen Gwynedd, son of Gruffydd ap Conan, died in 1169, having +governed his country well and worthily for the space of thirty-two +years. He was fortunate and victorious in all his affairs, and +never took any enterprise in hand but he achieved it. 2. Meredyth +ap Gruffydd ap Rhys, lord of Caerdigan and Stratywy, died in 1153, +at the early age of twenty-five; a worthy knight, fortunate in +battle, just and liberal to all men. 3. Owen Cyfeilioc was the son +of Gruffydd Meredyth ap Meredyth ap Blethyn, who was created lord of +Powys by Henry I., and died about the year 1197, leaving his +principality to his son Gwenwynwyn, from whom that part of Powys was +called Powys Gwenwynwyn, to distinguish it from Powys Vadoc, the +possession of the lords of Bromfield. The poems ascribed to him +possess great spirit, and prove that he was, as Giraldus terms him, +"linguae dicacis," in its best sense. 4. Cadwalader, son of +Gruffydd ap Conan, prince of North Wales, died in 1175. Gruffydd of +Maelor was son of Madoc ap Meredyth ap Blethyn, prince of Powys, who +died at Winchester in 1160. "This man was ever the king of +England's friend, and was one that feared God, and relieved the +poor: his body was conveyed honourably to Powys, and buried at +Myvod." His son Gruffydd succeeded him in the lordship of +Bromfield, and died about the year 1190. 6. Rhys ap Gruffydd, or +the lord Rhys, was son of Gruffydd ap Rhys ap Tewdwr, who died in +1137. The ancient writers have been very profuse in their praises +of this celebrated Prince. 7. David, son of Owen Gwynedd, who, on +the death if his father, forcibly seized the principality of North +Wales, slaying his brother Howel in battle, and setting aside the +claims of the lawful inheritor of the throne, Iorwerth Trwyndwn, +whose son, Llewelyn ap Iorwerth, in 1194, recovered his inheritance. +8. Howel, son of Iorwerth of Caerleon, appears to have been +distinguished chiefly by his ferocity. + +{191} Malpas in Cheshire. + +{192} It appears that a small college of prebendaries, or secular +canons, resided at Bromfield in the reign of king Henry I.; Osbert, +the prior, being recorded as a witness to a deed made before the +year 1148. In 1155, they became Benedictines, and surrendered +church and lands to the abbey of St. Peter's at Gloucester, +whereupon a prior and monks were placed there, and continued till +the dissolution. An ancient gateway and some remains of the priory +still testify the existence of this religious house, the local +situation of which, near the confluence of the rivers Oney and Teme, +has been accurately described by Leland. + +{193} Baldwin was born at Exeter, in Devonshire, of a low family, +but being endowed by nature with good abilities, applied them to an +early cultivation of sacred and profane literature. His good +conduct procured him the friendship of Bartholomew bishop of Exeter, +who promoted him to the archdeaconry of that see; resigning this +preferment, he assumed the cowl, and in a few years became abbot of +the Cistercian monastery at Ford. In the year 1180, he was advanced +to the bishopric of Worcester, and in 1184, translated to the +archiepiscopal see of Canterbury. In the year 1188, he made his +progress through Wales, preaching with fervour the service of the +Cross; to which holy cause he fell a sacrifice in the year 1190, +having religiously, honourably, and charitably ended his days in the +Holy Land. + +{194} Giraldus here alludes to the dignity of archdeacon, which +Baldwin had obtained in the church of Exeter. + + + + + +End of the Project Gutenberg eText The Itinerary of Archbishop +Baldwin through Wales by Giraldus Cambrensis + diff --git a/old/itwls10.zip b/old/itwls10.zip Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..eba26ba --- /dev/null +++ b/old/itwls10.zip |