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+*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 11297 ***
+
+[Illustration: Map of the Empire of MOROCCO for Dr. BUFFA'S TRAVELS]
+
+
+TRAVELS
+
+THROUGH THE
+
+EMPIRE OF MOROCCO.
+
+BY
+
+JOHN BUFFA, M.D.
+
+PHYSICIAN TO THE FORCES.
+
+
+ILLUSTRATED WITH A MAP.
+
+LONDON:
+
+
+1810.
+
+
+
+
+PREFACE.
+
+My motives for publishing this volume of Travels, will be best
+explained by a detail of the circumstances which gave rise to my
+journey to Morocco. In 1805, I was serving in the capacity of
+Physician to His Majesty's Forces, at the Depot Hospital in the Isle
+of Wight; whence, by dexterous management of the Army Medical
+Board[*], I was removed, and placed upon half-pay, in June of that
+year. At this period, it occurred to Mr.  Turnbull, Chairman of the
+Committee of Merchants trading to the Levant, that it would be of
+advantage to the public, were the offices of Garrison Surgeon of
+Gibraltar, and Inspecting Medical Officer of the ships doing
+quarantine, which were then united in the person of Mr. Pym, separated
+and made distinct appointments; and he was pleased to think that, from
+my local knowledge, and other circumstances, I should be a proper
+person to fill the latter of these offices. This was also the opinion
+of His Royal Highness the Duke of Kent, Governor of the garrison.
+Representations were accordingly made on the subject, to the then
+Secretary of State for the War and Colonial Department, Lord
+Castlereagh; and it was so fully understood that the proposition had
+been assented to on his part, that an order was issued from the
+Transport Board, to provide a passage for myself and family to
+Gibraltar. There I waited some months, in the expectation that the
+commission would be sent after me, but in vain. In the mean time, I
+received a communication from Mr. Mattra, British Consul General at
+Tangiers, requesting that I would cross over to Barbary, and attend
+His Excellency the Governor of Larache, First Minister of the Emperor
+of Morocco, then labouring under a dangerous illness. It was on my
+return from this journey, that I found a letter from Mr. Turnbull (See
+Appendix, No. III. p. 227), stating that my old friends of the Medical
+Board had been at their usual work of persecution, and by their
+scandalous misrepresentations to the new Secretary of State for War
+and the Colonies, Mr. Windham, had succeeded in preventing the
+appointment which His Royal Highness the Governor of Gibraltar had
+been graciously pleased to design for me.
+
+During my residence in Barbary it was my good fortune to gain the
+approbation and friendship of the Emperor of Morocco, and of the
+principal Officers of his Court, by which I was enabled to give
+facilities to the procuring of fresh provisions for our Navy, and
+render to my country other services, not strictly in the line of my
+profession.  (See the various documents at the end of Appendix.)
+Having succeeded in restoring the Governor of Larache to health, and
+performed some other cures, acceptable to the Emperor of Morocco, I
+considered the objects for which I had crossed over to Barbary
+accomplished, and returned to Gibraltar, after having received the
+most flattering marks of distinction, both from the Imperial Court,
+and from Lord Collingwood, Commander of the British fleet in the
+Mediterranean.  The letter of the Emperor of Morocco to His Majesty
+(Appendix, No. X. p.  239) is an ample proof of the disposition of
+that prince in my favour.
+
+Finding the principal aim of my voyage to Gibraltar frustrated by the
+machinations of the Medical Junta, whom I have already stated as ever
+active in mischief, I determined to return to England. The letter of
+the Emperor of Morocco to His Majesty, and a general certificate,
+couched in the strongest terms of approbation, and signed by all the
+principal merchants of Gibraltar, I thought were documents, which,
+added to my correspondence with Lord Collingwood, and the officers of
+his fleet, would not fail to have procured me a favourable reception,
+and some attention to my claims.
+
+But the letter of the Emperor of Morocco, as it still remains
+unanswered, I cannot but believe has never been presented to His
+Majesty.  Nay, the pressing solicitations, with which I have since
+been honoured on the part of the Emperor of Morocco, through his
+principal Minister, to return to that country, I have hitherto been
+obliged to delay answering, that I might not, on the one hand, insult,
+by evasive or false replies, a government from which I had experienced
+such friendship and respect; or, on the other hand, be compelled, by a
+true statement, to compromise my own.
+
+The principal design of publishing this account of my journey to the
+Barbary States, is to shew the good policy, on the part of this
+country, of keeping upon terms of strict amity with the government of
+Morocco. The neglect, which, on this occasion, has been evinced of the
+Emperor's letter, I cannot but consider, in a public point of view, as
+extremely reprehensible, independently of the private injury it has
+occasioned to myself.  Whether this neglect arose from the
+misrepresentations of the Army Medical Board, or from those of any
+other persons, I will not pretend to determine; but in any case, a
+most censurable disregard, even of the forms of civility, towards a
+Prince, who, however we may affect to despise his influence in the
+great political scale, has it always in his power materially to
+promote or to impede the interests of this country in the Levant, must
+attach to some quarter or other.
+
+  [*] As the members of that body are expected shortly to be dismissed
+  from their situations, I think it right, lest at any future period
+  injustice should be done to innocent individuals, by confounding
+  them with the guilty, here to state that Sir Lucas Pepys,
+  Bart. Mr. Thomas Keate, and Mr. Francis Knight, Apothecaries, at
+  present compose the body illegally calling themselves the Army
+  Medical Board, whose conduct for a great many years has brought
+  disgrace and disaster on that important department.  For a detail of
+  their conduct, see "An Analytical View of the Medical Department of
+  the British Army, by Charles Maclean, M.D." 8vo. published by
+  Stockdale, Pall Mall.
+
+
+
+CONTENTS.
+
+
+LETTER I.
+
+Inducement for the Journey--Arrive at Tangiers--Its History--
+Situation--Inhabitants--Military--Governor--Fortifications--
+Subterraneous Passage--Socco, or Market--Adjacent Villas--Invited to
+Larache.
+
+LETTER II.
+
+Sketch of the History of Morocco--Road from Tangiers--Simplicity of
+the Peasants--Moors hospitable--Arrive at a Village--The ancient
+Zelis--Public Accommodations--Much infested with Vermin--Arzilla, a
+ruinous walled Town--Arrive at Larache.
+
+LETTER III.
+
+Conducted to the Governor--Medical Hint from his Secretary--Governor
+recovers--Larache--Its Harbour, Shipping, and Inhabitants.
+
+LETTER IV.
+
+Excursion to Mamora, and thence lo Salee--Friendly Reception by the
+Governor of the latter--Rabat--Tower of Hassen--Shella--Mansooria--
+Alcasser--Quiber--Its Socco, or Market-place.
+
+LETTER V.
+
+Leave Larache with an Escort--Curious Custom on returning from
+Mecca--Arrive at Tetuan.
+
+LETTER VI.
+
+Ill Usage of a Lieutenant of the Swiftsure--Disaffection of the
+Moorish Governor towards Great Britain.
+
+LETTER VII.
+
+Sail for Tetuan--Appearance of the Coast--Enter the Boosega
+River--Curious Towers of Defence--Custom-house--Female Dress--Enter
+Tetuan over a Road of unlevelled Rock--Disagreeable Streets--Well
+received by the Governor--Public Markets--Socco--An Auction Market.
+
+LETTER VIII.
+
+Tetuan--The Jews much oppressed there--particularly the
+Females--Costume--Singularity of the Streets in the Jewish
+Town--Ceuta--Would be invaluable to England--Melilla--Summoned to
+visit the Emperor.
+
+LETTER IX.
+
+Journey to Larache--Annual Socco of St. Martin--No Christian permitted
+to witness it--Express Order for that Purpose in the Author's
+Favour--Specimen of native medical Skill--Reception at
+Larache--Complain of the Impositions of Governor Ash-Ash--Comparative
+Tariff--Effect the Renewal of the old Tariff with increasing
+Advantages.
+
+LETTER X.
+
+Depart from Larache with a little Army--Moorish military
+Salute--Numerous Villages--Customary Procession of the
+Inhabitants--Judicial Arrangements--River Beth resembles the Po--Herds
+of Camels--Arrive at Mequinez--French Falsehood again put
+down--Excellent Road from Mequinez--Fertility and Luxuriance of the
+adjacent Country--Procession to the Sanctuary of Sidy
+Edris--Multiplicity of Saints--Ceremony demonstrative of the Emperor's
+Favour--Take possession of my new Residence.
+
+LETTER XI.
+
+Imperial Review of eighty thousand Cavalry--The Palace--Introduction
+to the Emperor--Visit the Seraglio--Beauty of the Sultana--Her
+Indisposition--Her Influence over the Emperor--His Person described.
+
+LETTER XII.
+
+Succession of the Sovereigns from their Founder to the present
+Emperor.
+
+LETTER XIII.
+
+Responsibility of the Governors--Empire beautiful and
+productive--Humane Efforts of the Emperor--Blind Submission to his
+Will--Great Number of Negroes naturalized--The Moors might be truly
+formidable--Emperor's Brother--Fez divided into two
+Parts--Magnificent Mosques--Commercial Privileges--Indignities which
+Christians undergo--Singular Supply of Water--The Imperial
+Gardens--Propensity to
+defraud--Factories--Exports--Costume--Character---Manner of
+Living--Domestic Vermin.
+
+LETTER XIV.
+
+Fez--Debility of the Moors--Mosques--Antiquities, Roman, Carthaginian,
+and Saracen--Storks held in great Veneration--Baths--Bazars--
+Inhabitants--Residence--Menagerie--Marvellous Preservation of a
+Jew--Lions-- Tigers--Leopards--Hyenas.
+
+LETTER XV.
+
+Sudden Departure from Fez--Arrive at Mequinez--Attend the
+Emperor--Melancholy Catastrophe--Expedition against wild
+Beasts--Extensive Palaces--Seraglio--Visit a Haram--Founders of the
+City--A fortified Town--Inhabitants--Jewish Town--Rich Attire of the
+higher Orders--Numerous Market-places--Furniture--Saints
+Houses--Imperial Field Sports--Pack of Greyhounds--Abundance of Game.
+
+LETTER XVI.
+
+Courtship--Marriage--Funerals--Sabbath.
+
+LETTER XVII.
+
+Depart from Morocco--Roads dreadfully infested by Robbers--A Tribe of
+aboriginal Freebooters--Description of Morocco--Filth of the common
+People--Tobacco disallowed--Justice of the Emperor.
+
+LETTER XVIII.
+
+Moorish Character--Form of Devotion--Meals--Revenue--Poll-tax on the
+Jews--Royal Carriages--Ostrich-riding--Public Schools--Watch-dogs.
+
+LETTER XIX.
+
+Face and Produce of the Empire, natural and artificial.
+
+LETTER XX.
+
+Practice of Physic--Astrology--Poetry--Entertainment given by the
+Author to the Moors--Their Astonishment at the Effects of Electricity.
+
+LETTER XXI.
+
+Prevalent Diseases--Abuse of Stimulants--Medicinal
+Well--Sorcery--Hydrophobia.
+
+LETTER XXII.
+
+Depart for Gibraltar--Oppressive Heat--Robbers--Arrive at
+Larache--Affray of some English Sailors--Letter from the Governor to
+Lord Collingwood.
+
+LETTER XXIII.
+
+Embark for Gibraltar--Precautionary Hints.
+
+
+APPENDIX.
+
+No. I.--Letter from J. Turnbull, Esq. General Chairman of the
+Merchants trading to the Mediterranean, recommending Dr. Buffa for a
+civil medical Appointment at Gibraltar.--Dated 5th August 1805.
+
+No. II.--Letter from the Secretary of the Transport Board, informing
+Dr. Buffa that a Passage in one of His Majesty's Transports to
+Gibraltar was ordered for him and his Family.
+
+No. III.--Extract of a Letter from John Turnbull, Esq. Chairman of the
+Committee of Merchants trading to the Levant, &c. to Dr.  Buffa.
+
+No. IV.--Extract of a Letter from John Ross, Esq. Acting Consul
+General at Tangiers, to Dr. Buffa.
+
+No V.--Letter sent by a Courier from the Court of Morocco to J. Ross,
+Esq. by Permission of His Imperial Majesty's First Minister, after
+Dr. Buffa's having finally settled the Difference excited at that Time
+by the French Party in Barbary, between that Country and Great
+Britain.
+
+No. VI.--Letter from Captain Stewart, of His Majesty's Ship Seahorse,
+to the Government of Morocco, for Supplies; which Dr. Buffa was
+directed to answer, after having procured the said Supplies without
+any Charge.
+
+No. VII.--Letter from Admiral the Right Hon.  Lord Collingwood, to the
+Government of Morocco, in answer to Dr. Buffa's Official Letter to
+Captain Stewart, touching on various public Matters.
+
+No. VIII.--An Official Letter written by Dr.  Buffa, by particular
+Direction of the Emperor of Morocco, in answer to a Letter of Lord
+Collingwood of the 8th July 1806, giving his Lordship Information of
+the happy Termination of the Negotiations which Dr. Buffa carried on,
+and which all the Representations of Mr. Ross to that Court were
+unable to effect; which gave rise to a very long and expensive
+Correspondence between Mr. Ross and Dr. Buffa, Long carried on by
+constant Couriers.
+
+No. IX.--Letter written by Command of the Emperor of Morocco, to Lord
+Collingwood, in favour of Dr. Buffa.
+
+No. X.--Translation of a Letter from the Emperor of Morocco to the
+King. Referred to in the Petition.
+
+Nos. XI. and XII.--Copies of two Letters received from the Government
+bf Morocco, to which Dr. Buffa has hitherto been unable to reply.
+
+
+
+
+
+TRAVELS,
+
+&c.
+
+
+
+LETTER I.
+
+Inducement for the Journey--Arrive at Tangiers--Its History--
+Situation--Inhabitants--Military--Governor--Fortifications--
+Subterraneous Passage--Socco, or Market--Adjacent Villas--Invited to
+Larache.
+
+
+Tangiers, January 12th, 1806.
+
+I have long felt very desirous to visit a country, which,
+notwithstanding the many revolutions it has undergone, and the
+enlightened characters of its conquerors, is regarded as still
+immersed in a degree of barbarism almost unparalleled. It appeared to
+me next to impossible that a nation so contiguous to Europe, with
+which it has for centuries maintained a constant intercourse, could
+have remained in a state of such profound ignorance.
+
+Impressed with these ideas, I readily embraced the offer of a friend
+to accompany him from Gibraltar to this place, intending to travel
+further up the country, should I meet with sufficient inducement from
+the result of my observations here. We landed on the first of this
+month, and the intermediate time I have employed in obtaining
+information relative to the town of Tangiers from the earliest
+tradition to the present time. As the particulars I have collected do
+not appear devoid of Interest, I flatter myself, you will be gratified
+that I should have made them the subject of a letter.
+
+This town, which by the ancients was called _Tingis_, or Tingir, and
+appears to have been the metropolis of the _Western Mauritania_, or
+Tingitania, as it was named, to distinguish it from _Mauritania
+Cæsariensis_; according to Pliny and others, was first founded
+ed fay _Antæus_ (about a thousand years before Christ), the
+same who was afterwards conquered and slain by _Hercules_. The giant
+is supposed to have been buried here: and the report of Plutarch, that
+his tomb was opened by Sertorius, and a corpse sixty cubits or more in
+length, taken out of it, confirms the idea.  But according to others,
+_Tingis_, or the present _Tangiers_, lays claim to a more ancient
+founder than _Antæus_. Procopius mentions, that in his time
+were standing two pillars of white stone, upon which were inscribed in
+the Phoenician characters the following words: _"We are the Canaanites
+who fed from Joshua, the son of Nun."_
+
+A colony of Carthaginians settled here, and it is most probable that a
+flourishing trade was carried on by them, as the situation of Tangiers
+is extremely well adapted for that purpose. Indeed the name _Tingis_,
+in the language of the Phoenicians and Carthaginians, signifies an
+_emporium_. When the Mauritaniæ became subject to the Romans,
+in the reign of Julius Cæsar, Bocchus, the son-in-law of
+Jugurtha, having defeated Bogud, the king of _Mauritania Tingitania_,
+he became possessed of that country, and Augustus, or, as some say,
+Octavius, confirmed this acquisition to him; and the inhabitants of
+_Tingis_ were allowed the privileges of Roman citizens.
+
+I cannot discover any thing further remarkable of Tangiers from the
+time it became a Roman colony, and during the period it was possessed
+by the Saracens, till the latter end of the fourteenth century, when
+it was taken by the Portuguese, who erected fortifications and other
+public works. It continued in their possession for nearly two
+centuries; and was at length given to our King, Charles the Second, as
+part of the dowry of his consort Catharine, We did not keep it long;
+for, owing to the little harmony that subsisted between that Monarch
+and his Parliament, it was ceded to the Moors in 1684, after we had
+blown up all the fortifications, and utterly destroyed the
+harbour. Since that event, it seems to have been gradually dwindling
+into its present insignificance.
+
+I have before observed, that the situation of Tangiers is well adapted
+to the purposes of commerce, being about two miles within the Straits
+of Gibraltar (or Hercules); but the ruins of the fortifications and
+harbour have rendered the anchorage in the bay of Tangiers very
+unsafe. This is a great obstacle to trade; very little is carried on
+there at present, and that little is by a few Jews, and lately, by a
+Spanish merchant of the name of Don Pedro.
+
+The town being built on the declivity of that high tract of land
+called Cape Spartel (the Cape _Cottes_ or _Ampelusian_ of the
+ancients), it is seen at a great distance; but on entering the bay, it
+appears to the best advantage.  It is defended by two martello towers,
+a castle, and a large battery; but I am confident that it could not
+withstand the attack of a few English frigates, and that such a force
+from the bay might destroy the town in the space of a few
+hours. Notwithstanding the vicissitudes to which this place has been
+exposed, it still possesses a superiority over the other towns in the
+empire of Morocco; it is the capital of the kingdom, and the residence
+of the Consuls General of the powers in amity with his Imperial
+Majesty. The houses of these foreign residents are constructed with
+great taste in the European style; the habitations of the Moors are
+neat; the air is pure and salubrious; the supply of excellent water,
+abundant; and the market cheap and plentiful.  This combination of
+advantages renders Tangiers, in many points of view, an eligible
+residence. The European society, which consists almost solely of the
+families of the foreign consuls, is pleasant and agreable, The
+adjacent country is beautifully romantic; and the opposite coast and
+bay present a most delightful prospect. The Moorish inhabitants are
+all soldiers, very poor, and entirely subject to the arbitrary will of
+the Emperor.  It is capable of furnishing, at a moment's warning,
+three thousand cavalry, and two thousand infantry and artillery-men;
+but these troops are badly trained, and without order or discipline: I
+attended their evening parade yesterday, and was truly diverted with
+the sorry appearance of their best militia-men, who were to mount
+guard for the night.  These Moorish soldiers are remarkably addicted
+to cheating. It is probably owing to their excessive indolence, which
+prevents them from making the usual exertions for obtaining a
+livelihood, and induces them to adopt the more expeditious mode of
+extorting from strangers the means of subsistence; but as they are not
+often presented with an object of prey, they continually labour
+against the pressure of extreme poverty. Tangiers is under the
+government of Sidy Ash-Ash; who resides at Tetuan. He is by no means
+partial to the English, but devoted to France; influenced by French
+principles, and French interest. Excepting a few small armed vessels,
+fitted out for piracy, there is no shipping in the harbour. I have
+observed none for the purpose of commerce; all their goods are
+exported in foreign bottoms; and when they bring in a prize, the
+vessel remains unsold for a considerable length of time, and it is
+always disposed of to a foreign merchant.
+
+Several remains of the European fortifications are yet visible; the
+Moors have repaired some, among which the western bastions still form
+a principal part of the strength of the place. The castle, which
+appears to have been built before the time of the Portuguese, stands
+in a commanding position upon one of the most prominent rocks of this
+coast. By an order of the Emperor, all the civil and military officers
+of this town are obliged to reside in it.
+
+From this castle is a subterraneous passage containing many curious
+remnants of antiquity.  On each side of the passage are ruinous
+apartments, which we may readily suppose to have been designed as
+places for the concealment of treasures, or receptacles for the
+dead. From the fragments of some urns I have collected, upon which are
+to be traced parts of inscriptions in the Punic character, I imagine
+this subterraneous place to have been built by the Carthaginians, for
+one or both of those purposes. It extends from the castle to several
+miles without the gates of the town; whence we may likewise infer,
+that it served as a means of escape in case of a sudden insurrection,
+or siege. Here are several superb mosques and commodious public baths.
+
+The _Socco_, or market, is held twice a week (on Sunday and
+Wednesday), in a spacious sandy square, outside of the western gate,
+whereto the peasants bring all kinds of provisions, and other
+necessaries, which are sold at very low rates. Fish and every sort of
+wild fowl are brought in daily, and sold very cheap. Among the
+Consuls' villas, some of which are built near the spot where the
+_Socco_ is held, that of the Swedish Consul is the most worthy of
+notice. The pleasure-ground is laid out with great taste in orange
+groves; the gardens abound in fruit-trees, and the Consul has made a
+curious botanical collection.
+
+I have just been interrupted by Mr. Matra, our Consul. He called to
+request me to go up to Larache, to attend the Governor, who is
+dangerously ill, and has sent here for an English physician. I
+intended to have continued a brief account of this empire, from the
+time it became a Roman province to the introduction of Mahometanism;
+also by what means the Moors became mixed with Arabs: but I must
+reserve this for the next opportunity.
+
+
+
+
+LETTER II.
+
+_Sketch of the History of Morocco--Road from Tangiers--Simplicity of
+the Peasants--Moors hospitable--Arrive at a Village--The ancient
+Zelis--Public Accommodations--Much infested with Vermin--Arzilla, a
+ruinous walled Town--Arrive at Larache_.
+
+
+Larache, January 1806.
+
+Before I proceed to give you the particulars of my journey to this
+place, I shall fulfil tho promise I made you in my last.
+
+The present empire of Morocco is properly the _Mauritania Tingitania_
+of the Romans, as the _Mauritania Cæsariensis_ comprised
+Algiers, Tripoli, and Tunis; and was so called from the Emperor
+Claudius.  _Tingitania_ was not decidedly reduced to a Roman province
+till after the death of _Bocchus_.  Augustus afterwards gave the two
+Mauritanias, and a part of _Getulia_, to the younger _Juba_, as a
+remuneration for the loss of his father's kingdom
+(_Numidia_). _Ptolemy_, his son, by _Cleopatra_ (daughter of _Antony_
+and _Cleopatra_), succeeded him. In his reign, the Moors of this
+country were induced to revolt by a Numidian named _Tacfarinas_, who
+had served in the Roman army, and who, at the head of a set of
+barbarians accustomed to every species of robbery, assisted the revolt
+he had excited.
+
+After a variety of successes and defeats, they were completely routed
+by _Dolabella_, the Roman General, and a body of Mauritanians sent to
+his assistance by _Ptolemy_, This conquest contributed to establish
+peace for a short time in these provinces; but at the death of
+_Ptolemy_ (who was treacherously cut off by _Caius_), they again
+revolted, when _Claudius_ first fixed a Roman army in _Mauritania_.
+His generals, though not without difficulty, succeeded in restoring
+tranquillity, which scarcely met with any interruption till the latter
+end of the fifth century, when the declining state of the Roman power
+favoured another revolt, in which the Moors entirely shook off the
+yoke of the Romans, assisted by the Vandals, under _Genseric_, who
+overran Africa, and obtained possession of most of the maritime
+towns. The Vandals were expelled in the seventh century by the
+Saracens, under the Caliphs of Bagdad, a ferocious and warlike race of
+Arabs, who, from conquest to conquest, had extended and removed their
+seat of government from Medina to the city of Damascus; thence to
+_Cufa_, and from the latter place to _Bagdad_; where they established
+their Caliphate authority.
+
+Flushed with their success, and burning with the hopes of plunder, in
+the conquest of countries more fertile and richer, but less warlike
+than their own, they extended their arms as far as the western
+_Mauritania_. This country then remained for some time subject to the
+Caliphs of Bagdad, and was governed by their lieutenants, a set of
+cruel, arbitrary, and rapacious men.
+
+The distance from the seat of government, and the oppressive manner in
+which the Caliphs ruled, excited universal commotion in this part, and
+considerably diminished their authority. Their generals, far from
+suppressing, openly encouraged these tumults, and severally aspired to
+the sovereignty. In the midst of these intestine broils, _Edris_, a
+descendant of Mahomet, fled into Mauritania, to avoid the persecutions
+of the Caliph _Abdallah_, who, to ensure the succession to his own
+family, had caused the kinsmen of _Edris_ to be put to death. _Edris_
+first settled in a mountain, between Fez and Mequinez, called
+_Zaaron_, where he soon gained the confidence of the Moors. He
+preached the doctrine of Mahomet, and, by degrees, succeeded in
+establishing it throughout the country.  These people, fond of
+novelty, and extremely susceptible of fanaticism, readily embraced a
+faith so well suited to their manners and inclinations. They elected
+him their chief, and invested him with supreme power; which he
+employed in reducing the Arab generals.  From that time, the
+characters of the Moors and Arabs gradually blended, so that in
+after-ages, among the generality of them, scarcely any distinction can
+be traced.
+
+As it is foreign to my present purpose to carry you farther into the
+ancient history of this country, I shall proceed to give you tho
+particulars of my journey to this town. I left Tangiers, escorted by a
+guard, consisting of a serjeant and six horsemen, accompanied by an
+interpreter, and my few servants. We rode for several hours,
+alternately through gardens and woods: the former full of fruit-trees;
+such as orange, lemon, fig, pomegranate, apple, pear, and cherry
+trees.  The scene became every moment more interesting.  As we
+advanced, the country assumed a variety almost indescribable. The
+contrast was every where infinitely striking.  At one instant the eye
+was presented with fine corn-fields, meadows, and high hills; nay,
+mountains, cultivated to the very summits, are covered with immense
+flocks of sheep, and herds of cattle; while the vallies conveyed to
+the imagination an idea of the fertile plains of Arcadia; the simple
+manners of the Moors, who tend these flocks and herds, still further
+inducing one to believe them the happy, peaceful people, the poets
+feign the Arcadian swains to have been. On the other hand are huge
+mountains, bleak and barren, inaccessible to man, and scarcely
+affording food to the straggling wild goats that venture to browse on
+them.
+
+There is a degree of simplicity in the behaviour of the peasants, so
+widely different from these who inhabit the towns, that it is
+impossible to suppose them the same race of men. From the great
+affinity between the manners and customs of these country Moors, and
+the _Scenite Arabs_, the inhabitants of _Arabia Deserta_, we may
+naturally infer that they must have derived those habits from the
+latter.
+
+They reside in villages composed of tents to the number of forty or
+fifty, which they remove at pleasure; when the pasture fails in one
+valley, they strike their tents, and seek another, where they remain
+till the same necessity impels them to quit that in its turn.  This
+was precisely the custom of the _Arabes Scenitæ_. The vast
+plains of sand with which _Arabia Deserta_ abounds, were occasionally
+interspersed with fertile spots, which appeared like little
+islands. These we're rendered extremely delightful by fountains,
+rivulets, palm-trees, and most excellent fruit.  The Arabs, with their
+flocks, encamped on some of them, and when they had consumed every
+thing there, they retired to others.  Their descendants, the present
+_Bedoweens_, continue the practice to this day. The name given to this
+kind of village is the same as that of the Arabs just mentioned, which
+is _Dow-war, or Hbyma_.
+
+The families of the Moorish peasants appear to be very numerous, as I
+observed that each tent was quite full. They flocked out as I passed,
+to gratify their curiosity in seeing a _Massarane_ (for so they
+denominate a Christian). Yet, notwithstanding their antipathy to all
+Christians, I was received with the greatest hospitality by these
+followers of Mahomet. They seemed to vie with each other in presenting
+the bowl of butter-milk, which they consider as a great delicacy, and.
+indeed, an offering of peace.
+
+In the centre of a plain, about eight hours journey from Tangiers, we
+halted, and refreshed ourselves. After allowing my serjeant and guard
+to perform their ablutions, and say their prayers, we proceeded on our
+journey, and arrived, very late in the evening, at a village on the
+banks of a large river, which, from its situation, I imagine to be the
+_Zelis_, or _Zelia_, of the ancients, and which, by its annual
+inundation, fertilizes and enriches the country to such a degree,
+that, with very little labour, it produces abundant crops of all kinds
+of grain, particularly of wheat and barley.
+
+A number of rivulets have their source in those mountains, which,
+joining others in their course, at length form pretty considerable
+rivers; and these, meeting with obstacles from the projecting rocks
+over which they pass, produce most beautiful natural cascades, which,
+precipitating themselves into the plains, preserve so great a moisture
+in the soil, that it is covered with a continual verdure.
+
+There are no public inns for the accommodation of travellers on the
+road; but the Emperor has caused stone buildings to be erected, at
+certain distances, as substitutes. These buildings are not so good as
+many of the stables in England; they resemble the sheds, made, by
+farmers, to-give shelter to their cattle in tempestuous weather: yet,
+miserable as they were, I was glad to accept the offer of a night's
+lodging in one of them, not having provided myself with a tent.
+
+The Cadi of the village conducted us to this delectable abode, which
+we found already occupied by six Moorish wanderers, who, in the
+Emperor's name, were ordered to turn out, and make room for me and my
+suite. Supper was brought me by the Cadi; it consisted, of boiled rice
+and milk, and some fresh-water fish, tolerably well dressed.  When I
+had partaken of this homely repast, I prepared myself for rest, of
+which I stood in great need from the fatigues of the day; but, alas!
+my evil genius had determined otherwise; it seemed as if all the fleas
+and bugs in His Imperial Majesty's dominions had been collected, to
+prevent my closing my eyes; or it was, possibly, a legacy bequeathed,
+me by my predecessors.  Be that as it may, I found them such very
+troublesome companions, that I preferred the night air to the prospect
+of being devoured before morning; I therefore wrapped myself up in a
+thick blanket, and slept, unmolested, in the open air, till after
+daybreak, when I found myself sufficiently refreshed to pursue my
+journey.  Crossing the river, we passed through a ruinous walled town,
+called _Arzilla_, commanded by an Alcaid, under the Governor of
+Larache. This, which is a maritime town, lies at the mouth of the
+above river, and was, according to Strabo, Pliny, and others, a
+_Phoenician colony_; it was afterwards successively in the hands of
+the Romans, Vandals, Arabs, and occupied by _Aphonso_, King of
+Portugal, surnamed the _African_. It was abandoned by the Portuguese
+in 1471, when it fell under the power of the kings of Morocco.
+
+I observed several ruins in this town and its vicinity, but could not
+stay to inspect them, It is inhabited by Moors and Jews, and is
+surrounded by gardens abounding with lemon, orange, and grape
+trees. On the evening of the same day we reached this place.  I shall
+defer the account of my reception here, and the state in which I found
+the Governor, till my next.
+
+
+
+
+LETTER III.
+
+Conducted to the Governor--Medical Hint from his Secretary--Governor
+recovers--Larache--Its Harbour, Shipping, and Inhabitants.
+
+
+Larache, February 1806.
+
+On our arrival at this place, we were met, at the gates of the
+garrison, by the Governor's public Secretary, who conducted us to a
+house belonging to Mr. Matra, and afterwards accompanied me to the
+castle to visit my patient.  On our way thither I requested the
+Secretary to give me his opinion concerning the present state of the
+Governor's health; I also asked how he had been accustomed to live,
+and how long he had been confined to his bed. "What do you mean," said
+he, "by asking such foolish questions? you are not a _tweeb_" (the
+name for a physician). I told him that I was. He continued: "That must
+be determined by your success or failure; if you succeed, you will for
+ever establish your fame in Barbary; you will be esteemed and
+respected by all the Moors; but, if you fail, and His Excellency
+should die under your hands, I would then advise you to make your
+escape as quickly and as privately as possible, and never to attempt
+to revisit this country." I confessed the weight of the encouragement
+and threats which he held out; and inquiring whether he meant to
+insinuate, that if the Governor died I should suffer death? and
+whether they always punished their tweebs thus when they dispatched
+any of their patients to the other world? he rejoined, "Not exactly;
+but consider, you are a Massarene, which makes a great difference."  I
+then intimated that I would decline having any thing to do with his
+master, and would return to Gibraltar. "You do not think of such a
+thing!" he exclaimed; "it would be unworthy of your character and
+situation.  But come; I will give you a few salutary hints, which may
+be of service to you; the rest you will discover at the bed-side, and
+on feeling the pulse of your patient, I wish you may succeed in
+recovering him; but I am afraid he is going, and that no tweeb on
+earth can save him."
+
+He then informed me that His Excellency had been attended, for some
+days past, by a celebrated tweeb, who stood high in the public
+estimation; that he had pronounced the Governor's disease incurable,
+and he had, bled him so copiously, and so repeatedly, that "I verily
+believe," added the Secretary, "he has not a single drop of blood left
+in his veins; I would therefore advise you to administer some good
+cordials, and also some nourishment, to restore his lost vigour." By
+this time we had reached the castle. I found the Governor in a
+situation truly deplorable.  He had been bled, as the Secretary
+described, _ad deliquium_, and reduced so low, that it was with great
+difficulty I could hear what he was desirous of explaining to me.
+
+His body was covered all over with purple spots, and had every
+concomitant symptom of the blood approaching to a putrescent
+dissolution, I afforded him all the assistance in my power the same
+evening; and early the next morning, when I visited him, I found him
+somewhat easier; the next day better; and thus progressively mending;
+till yesterday he was sufficiently recovered to venture on horseback,
+and I trust he will, ultimately, be perfectly restored to health and
+spirits.  He is about forty years of age, of a genteel appearance,
+exceedingly well informed, and reputed to be the most sensible officer
+in His Imperial Majesty's service, perfectly, _au fait_ in the
+intrigues and politics of the Cabinet of St. Cloud, and other nations,
+He has always been, and is still, a very steady friend to the English,
+
+During my stay here so many poor wretches applied for advice and
+medical assistance, that I have completely exhausted my stock of
+medicines, and I am, in consequence of this, obliged to decline the
+Emperor's invitation to his court. I shall return to Gibraltar for a
+supply, and shall then pay him a visit at Fez.
+
+Larache is supposed to be the famous _Lixus_, or _Lixos_, of the
+ancients, and, consequently, was in great reputation in the earliest
+ages, Pliny asserts, that the giant _Antæus_ occasionally
+resided here; and further adds, that Hercules vanquished him in this
+neighbourhood, as he supposes the gardens of the Hesperides to have
+been not far off. This I think very probable, as the Arabic name of
+this town is _El Arais_, signifying a place abounding in gardens;
+which is still the case. The vicinity of it is, indeed, rendered
+extremely delightful by the number of gardens.  Pliny also makes the
+river Lixos (upon the banks of which the town stood), by its winding
+course, to resemble a serpent, or dragon, from which he intimates that
+this river gave rise to the fable of the Dragon guarding the golden
+apples of the _Hesperides_.  Be that as it may, the situation of the
+present Larache gives great probability to the supposition of its
+being the reputed _Lixus_ of the ancients. The learned Aldrete affirms
+the word _Lixos_ be derived from לחישו, _Lachisu_, or נה־אלחישו,
+_Nahara Lachisu_, signifying _enchantment_, or the _enchanted
+river_. He observes, that the town of Lixos was situated near the
+banks of a river of the same name; and that the inhabitants of this
+country were supposed to possess uncommon skill in sorcery and magic.
+
+Many wonderful things have been related of _Antæus_, by various
+authors, in his two residences of _Tingis_ and _Lixos_. Pliny mentions
+a Roman colony having been settled here by _Claudius_; and I should
+judge this statement to be perfectly correct, from the number of Roman
+ruins observable in and near the town. It was in the possession of the
+Spaniards in 1610, but was retaken by the Moors before the
+commencement of the eighteenth century.
+
+It is surrounded by good bastions and other works; some of which were
+constructed by the Spaniards, and the rest by the Moors. It is
+encompassed by deep trenches, with sluices to fill them with water
+from the river, The streets of this town are narrow and dirty, paved
+with large irregular stones, and consisting of abrupt ascents and
+descents, which render them unsafe to pass through on horseback.
+
+Near the castle, at the extremity of the cape, facing the Atlantic, is
+an oblong square, surrounded by a piazza, supported by colonnades,
+where the shops of the merchants are situated, and where the market
+also is held.  The cattle-market is kept in an extensive plain, to
+which you pass through a crooked way, out of the western
+gate. Thursday is the market-day.
+
+Fresh water is extremely scarce, and the inhabitants are sometimes
+greatly distressed for want of it. Larache is a seat of government,
+and contains a spacious inland harbour; but the entrance is dangerous
+from the badness of its bar, which might, however, be removed with
+little trouble and expense, so as to render the harbour very
+commodious for shipping,
+
+The harbour contains a portion of the Emperor's maritime force, which
+consists of four frigates, a brig, and a sloop of war, in very
+tolerable condition. This little fleet is commanded by an admiral, and
+sails every year in the month of May; when it cruizes about during the
+summer, picking up a few straggling vessels, and returns here to
+winter; in which time the sailors are twice a week exercised at the
+great guns. This town is now entirely occupied by soldiers and
+sailors, and their respective families. It did contain about two
+thousand Jews, whose business it was to purchase hides, wool, and wax,
+for several commercial houses established at Tetuan; but these poor
+people were obliged to leave this garrison, and take refuge in the
+neighbouring mountains, from a sudden and irrevocable decree of the
+Emperor, on account of their having sold some _aguardiente_ to the
+sailors, which occasioned a great fight, that was attended with the
+loss of three Moors.
+
+I have just received intelligence of the death of Mr. Matra; I am
+extremely sorry for this event, as, in him, we have lost a very
+powerful advocate at the court of Morocco: but it is no more than I
+expected, from the state in which I left him at Tangiers.
+
+
+
+
+LETTER IV.
+
+Excursion to Mamora, and thence to Salee--Friendly Reception by the
+Governor of the latter--Rabat--Tower of Hassen--Shella--
+Mansooria--Alcasser-- Quiber--Its Socco, or Marketplace.
+
+
+Larache, 1805.
+
+To escape from the importunities of those poor creatures who continued
+to pester me for medicines with which I could not supply them, I
+availed myself of the convalescent state of the Governor, and obtained
+his permission to make a short excursion to the nearest seaport towns
+on the western coast.  Escorted as before, I directed my way towards
+Mamora, a fortress about sixty miles off.
+
+I halted frequently to observe the face of, the country, and could not
+forbear lamenting the little knowledge I possess in the art of
+drawing; indeed, I never had more reason to regret having neglected it
+than now, as it would have enabled me to present you with some very
+interesting views, to which my pen cannot do justice.
+
+The beautiful intermixture of lakes, forests, and green vallies,
+forming most delightful landscapes, brought to my recollection those
+scenes I have so often contemplated, in my youthful days, on the
+borders of Switzerland.  The lakes abound with all kinds of
+water-fowls, and fine eels; and are surrounded by villages,
+sanctuaries, and holy houses; the latter occupied by the descendants
+of the ancient _Maraboots_, who are held in the highest veneration by
+the Moors, and whose habitations are considered as sacred asylums,
+which are never violated, either by the civil or military power.
+
+We ascended an eminence, upon which stands one of their most
+celebrated sanctuaries, built in the form of a pavilion, with four
+arched folding-doors, in the Gothic style, covered with varnished
+tiles of various colours, and embellished with curious Arabic
+characters. I was eagerly approaching, at the head of my little party,
+to gratify my curiosity, when a shower of stones, from the holy
+inhabitants of the neighbouring huts and tents, compelled me to
+desist; and after a retreat of one hundred yards, I sat down to
+refresh myself undisturbed.
+
+From this hill, however, I had a better opportunity of surveying the
+beauties of the adjacent lands, which are very productive; and also to
+observe the windings of the river _Seboo_, which, taking its source in
+the neighbourhood of Fez, forms a junction with the river _Beth_, and
+falls into the Atlantic Ocean.
+
+After journeying about a league, we crossed this river in a
+ferry-boat, and in a short time reached the fort of _Mamora_, which
+lies about two miles to the south of the river. This fort, after
+having been demolished by the Moors, was rebuilt by the Spaniards in
+1604, and taken by Muley Ishmael in 1681. It is commanded by an
+Alcaid, and inhabited by about forty or fifty families, who gain a
+livelihood by fishing for shads and eels; with which they supply the
+adjoining country during the winter season.
+
+We rested at this place, and feasted upon fried eels, which I found
+equal to those caught in the Thames. From _Mamora_ we proceeded to
+_Salee_ another maritime town, situated in the province of
+_Ben-hassen_, and at the mouth of the river _Salee_, which is formed
+by the junction of two small rivers.  The Governor of that place being
+an intimate friend of my patient, I was most kindly and hospitably
+received by him; and elegantly entertained in one of his gardens,
+which are well laid out, and ornamented with several fountains playing
+into marble basins, as well as by several delightful streams of water.
+
+Salee is a walled town, strongly defended by a large battery, mounting
+twenty-four pieces of heavy ordnance, and a redoubt which protects the
+mouth of the river. It contains about five hundred regular troops,
+three thousand militia-men, five hundred sailors, and a number of
+Moorish merchants and Jews. To the north of this garrison is a small
+town, in a ruinous state, inhabited by a few negro families. I was
+told it was built by Muley Ishmael for the accommodation of his
+favourite black troops. To the south, and on the opposite side of the
+river _Salee_, is the maritime city of _Rabat_, commanded by a black
+chief, and garrisoned with black soldiers.
+
+It is defended by a fort and strong batteries, adequate to prevent a
+hostile landing.  It contains several ruins of importance; among the
+most conspicuous of which are those of a large mosque, and the famous
+castle built by _Almansor_ the _Invincible_, together with a superb
+square tower; which latter is still in a tolerable state of
+preservation, and is called the tower of _Hassen_. This tower is about
+two hundred feet in height, strongly built with cut stone, and most
+curiously decorated with Arabic characters. It contains a staircase of
+easy ascent to the top, whence I had a most extensive prospect of the
+Atlantic Ocean, where vessels are descried sailing at an immense
+distance.
+
+The walls of Rabat are nearly two miles in circumference, and
+fortified by several square towers. Exclusive of its regular garrison,
+it contains four thousand militia-men, and about fifteen hundred
+sailors, besides several Moorish merchants and Jews; which latter live
+in a separate quarter.
+
+This town, as well as Salee, is admirably calculated for trade,
+capable of furnishing foreign markets with large quantities of wool,
+leather, wax, and other important commodities.  These contiguous
+cities are surrounded by gardens, watered by plentiful streams, which
+are artificially conveyed from a neighbouring spring, that takes its
+rise in a valley called _Tamura_, to the south of Rabat, and which
+also supplies all the houses of the two towns with fresh water.
+
+Both places contain docks for building vessels, and several small
+corvettes in the Emperor's service winter in these harbours: but the
+roads, like those of Larache, are only to be frequented from the
+beginning of April to the end of September, on account of the shifting
+of the sand, which accumulates on the wind blowing from the
+south-west, when the bar is rendered unsafe for vessels to pass.  Too
+great attention cannot be paid by commanders or masters of ships, on
+anchoring there, as a great number of anchors have been lately lost,
+and many vessels stranded.
+
+Curiosity prompted me to inspect a small ruinous town to the east of
+_Rabat_, named _Shella_, supposed to have been built by the
+_Carthaginians_: but my approach was rudely prevented by the
+inhabitants; no Christian, nor even Jew, being suffered to enter, on
+account of its containing several tombs of their most celebrated
+saints, while in fact it is only a sacred asylum for malefactors, and
+all the rogues of the country.
+
+
+To the south, and about eight leagues from _Rabat_, in a sandy and
+almost desert place, is a castle, in a most dilapidated state, called
+_Mensooria_, which was erected by _Jacob Al__mansor_, for the
+accommodation of travellers, and is still resorted to by the trading
+Moors and Jews, as a refuge at night from the attacks of robbers.
+
+Conceiving it rather hazardous to penetrate further in useless
+researches, I returned to this place, greatly chagrined at having been
+foiled in my attempts to explore the remains of antiquities in
+_Shella_, and other places. I assure you, my disappointment was not
+owing to the want either of perseverance or resolution, but the
+serjeant of my guard was an ignorant bigot, and a great coward,
+therefore unwilling and unable to protect, or share any danger with
+me. On my return here, I dismissed him, and obtained another serjeant,
+and a new guard, from the Governor, who caused my dismissed serjeant
+to be seized; and ordered him the _pallo_; but, at my intercession, he
+was pardoned, upon his promising for the future to evince a more
+soldierlike conduct, when summoned on duty.
+
+The town of _Alcasser-Quiber_ being only three leagues from this
+place, I also went thither, to see the _Socco_, which is held once a
+week, and is frequented by a vast number of the inhabitants of the
+neighbouring mountains, who carry their produce, consisting of cattle,
+fowls, eggs, butter, soft cheese, and large quantities of wool, hides,
+and wax.
+
+This city lies to the eastward of Larache, on the banks of the river
+_Luxos_, and is separated from the town of _Arzilla_ by alternate
+vallies and plains, amongst which some remains of redoubts,
+apparently, for the protection and defence of camps, are to be seen,
+and near which that unfortunate battle was fought in 1578, wherein
+_Don Sebastian_, King of Portugal, lost both his army and his life.
+
+_Alcasser-Quiber_ is a place of some note, carrying on an extensive
+and profitable commerce with Tetuan and other places. The town and its
+environs suffer greatly by the occasional overflowing of the river
+Luxos, which might however easily be remedied; but the Moors have no
+notion of altering things; therefore, without endeavouring to secure
+themselves from a recurrence of such disasters, they allow their
+houses to be filled with water, and themselves to be, not
+unfrequently, washed out of them.
+
+This town contains upwards of fifteen hundred families, exclusive of
+six hundred Jews, whose quarter is distinct from the Moors. It is
+commanded by an Alcaid, subject to the authority of the Governor of
+Larache, and ranks among the principal cities of the empire of
+Morocco.
+
+LETTER V.
+
+
+_Leave Larache with an Escort--Curious Custom on returning from
+Mecca--Arrive at Tetuan_.
+
+Tetuan.
+
+His Excellency the Governor of Larache being perfectly recovered, I
+took my departure from that city. For the sake of novelty, I proposed
+returning to Gibraltar, by this route, rather than by Tangiers. I
+obtained a letter of recommendation to _Sidy Ash-Ash_, and was
+accompanied by a strong guard, provided with a tent, and all other
+necessaries for the journey.
+
+On my way hither, I was highly entertained by the Serjeant of the
+guard. This man had not long returned from Mecca and Upper Egypt. He
+spoke Italian tolerably well, was full of strange notions, and
+considered himself quite a superior genius. He told me, that he
+expected to be promoted in a very short time, and asked me, whether I
+were present at his public entry into the garrison of Larache, on his
+return from the sanctuary of Mecca. I smiled, and answered him in the
+affirmative. He asked me, why I smiled?  "At the novelty of the
+exhibition," I replied, "in carrying you to all the mosques, and
+afterwards in escorting you in state to your humble habitation."--"It
+is but too often the practice," rejoined he, "of petulant infidels to
+ridicule us, in the exercise of pious customs and religious duties."
+Then spurring his horse, he muttered something abusive, which I
+pretended not to hear. However, I found no great difficulty in
+appeasing the pious and sanctified serjeant. In short, I dispelled all
+his glooms and ill humours, and drowned his scruples, in a cup of port
+wine. It is customary among the Moors, when any of them return from
+the pilgrimage of Mecca, to go out in great procession to meet the
+devout pilgrim, whom some of them carry on their shoulders with great
+solemnity through the town and to his own house, where he sits in
+state for three days, receiving visits and donations from all classes
+of people, who flock with the greatest eagerness to obtain a sight of
+him. The conversation was insensibly renewed, and he told me, that of
+a company of fifteen pilgrims, who set out for the holy city of Mecca,
+he was the sole survivor, the others having all perished in the
+deserts. He was the only favoured and true believer that was permitted
+to visit the holy sepulchre. He added: "As the dangers attending the
+pilgrimage are great and various, does not the happy being, who
+returns safe to his native place, deserve the honours and compliments
+paid him, for his great perseverance and patience in such a dangerous
+undertaking, the success of which is the result of his innate
+rectitude?" I gave him to understand that he had made the case
+clear. "The French," he continued, "had a design upon the treasures of
+Mecca." I agreed that they certainly had; and asked him, by what power
+he thought the French army was prevented from possessing itself of
+Mecca. "Unquestionably," rejoined he, "by the invincible and invisible
+power of our Prophet." In reply to my intimation that it was the
+British arms which defeated the French before Acre and Alexandria, and
+compelled them to give up the conquest they had made in Egypt, he went
+on to say, that "all the great acts of mankind are guided and governed
+by a supernatural power. The French were defeated by the English,
+because the latter fought under the invincible standard of _Mahomet_;
+and so fully convinced are the true believers of this, that we now
+consider the English as brethren.  I hate the French mortally; they
+are a set of bloody impious infidels, and treacherous to a degree; I
+would not escort a dog of a Frenchman for all the treasures of the
+Emperor; I would rather lose my head than protect one.  I fought the
+dogs in Egypt; but I took care not to spare one; I laid many of them
+in the dust. It behoves every honest Moor to be on his guard against
+the intrigues and duplicity of the French. A Moor can certainly face
+six of them. The Emperor's troops have more bodily strength than
+theirs. By the by, it is whispered about, that they intend paying us a
+visit to plunder us, and ravish our fine women. Let them come, we will
+meet them, I warrant you, and give them their due. Not one will return
+to France to tell his story." I then filled him another cup of port,
+to drink destruction to the French, whenever they should attempt
+either his shores or ours--and here ended our dialogue. I found him a
+_bon-vivant_, willing to overlook certain restrictions of his Prophet,
+and to drink his wine like an honest Englishman.
+
+The second day of our journey I had raised his spirits to such a
+height, that he wantonly picked a quarrel with the muleteer, and gave
+him two or three slight cuts with his sabre, which so much provoked
+the honest driver, that, being a stout robust man, he soon dismounted
+my hero, and would actually have sent him to the shades below, but for
+my interference.  When the Serjeant recovered his senses, he was very
+much alarmed lest his conduct should be exposed, or reach the ears of
+the Governor of Larache. In order therefore to dissipate the fears of
+this gallant soldier, I made the muleteer and the other swear, by
+their Prophet, to keep the transaction a secret. After this we
+travelled on merrily, without further disputes, and arrived here on
+the third day. I waited immediately upon, and delivered my letter to
+the Governor, who commanded one of his officers to conduct me to the
+house of the Vice-consul, where I now remain, in expectation of some
+vessel to convey me to Gibraltar.
+
+LETTER VI.
+
+
+_Ill Usage of a Lieutenant of the Swiftsure--Disaffection of the
+Moorish Governor towards Great Britain_.
+
+Gibraltar, March 1806
+
+His Majesty's ship the Swiftsure having arrived at Tetuan, to take in
+fresh water, I went on board. The watering-place is about eighteen
+miles from Tetuan, and six from the customhouse, at which last place
+is a tower, guarded by a strong detachment, and commanded by a
+Captain. When the ship had completed her water, signals were made to
+strike the tent, and every one to repair on board.
+
+It has always been customary for English men of war going to water
+there, to make the commanding officer a present of a cartridge of
+powder, which compliment was duly paid by the second Lieutenant of the
+Swiftsure; but the Moorish Captain, not contented with one cartridge,
+insisted upon having two. The Lieutenant refused to comply with this
+new and extraordinary demand; upon which he was immediately seized by
+a party of soldiers, who, after knocking him down, pinioned him, and
+in this degrading manner marched him up to Tetuan, under a strong
+escort.
+
+Captain Rutherford (who commands the Swiftsure), on hearing of this
+daring outrage, could with difficulty refrain from making instant
+reprisals: but unwilling to embroil the two nations, he sailed without
+delay, and arrived in the course of a few hours in this bay.  Two days
+after Mr. Wickes, the Lieutenant, joined the Swiftsure. He reports,
+that, after a most painful march, he was taken before Governor
+Ash-Ash, who released him, immediately, and promised to punish the
+Captain of the fort for the insult; a promise which, I am pretty
+confident, he never performed.
+
+Such an act will naturally inspire you with horror, and induce you to
+consider the Moors as a ferocious, barbarous set of people: but,
+believe me, it could only have been perpetrated under the government
+of _Ash-Ash_. At any other port of Barbary, a British officer will
+meet with a most kind and hospitable reception, and every mark of
+respect due to him.  The Emperor has given Ash-Ash positive orders to
+respect the English, and not to take the part of the French, directly
+or indirectly; but, as I observed in a former letter, I conceive this
+Moor to be completely under French influence.
+
+I am extremely busy in making the necessary preparations for my next
+trip; and as you are kind enough to say you are gratified with the
+account I have already sent you of the empire of Morocco, and wish me
+to continue my remarks, I shall most probably trouble you with a
+letter, whenever I meet with any thing that may serve to interest or
+amuse you.
+
+LETTER VII.
+
+_Sail for Tetuan--Appearance of the Coast--Enter the Boosega
+River--Curious Towers of Defence--Custom-house-Female Dress--Enter
+Tetuan over a Road of unlevelled Rock--Disagreeable Streets--Well
+received by the Governor--Public Markets--Socco--An Auction Market._
+
+
+Tetuan; March 14th, 1806
+
+One of His Majesty's brigs having been appointed to convey me either
+to Tangiers or Tetuan, the wind blowing due west, we sailed for this
+port. As the ship drew near the shore, I had a full view of this wild
+coast.  The tops of the lofty mountains are prodigious barren rocks,
+while their base is interspersed with broom and box. The hills and
+dales are covered with myrtles of various kinds, assuming different
+shades of lovely green. The towers and castles, which are of a
+delicate whiteness, rising in the midst of these groves of myrtles,
+render the scene interesting.  The plaster made use of in the erection
+of these towers is, of itself, extremely white; but the Moors are not
+satisfied with this, and they add a whitewash of lime.
+
+The towers are harmless as fortifications, since, for want of skill in
+the manufacture of gunpowder, the Moors are very deficient in that
+necessary article. No present therefore is more acceptable to them
+than a few cartridges of it.
+
+After firing two or three guns by way of signal to the Vice-consul,
+announcing my arrival, as the Captain had directions only to put me on
+shore, and to proceed to sea immediately to join Lord Collingwood's
+fleet, my baggage was put into a large Moorish boat, and I entered the
+river _Boosega_ (commonly called St. Martin) in the Captain's barge.
+This river is defended by a castle of singular construction, the
+entrance to which is by means of a ladder to a door in the upper
+story, and which ladder is occasionally drawn up. The four angles of
+the building are finished with small turrets, capped with clumsy
+domes, and having several ports for cannon. Near this place many of
+the Emperor's gallies anchor, and winter.
+
+Having proceeded a considerable way up the river, we landed at another
+castle, called the Custom-house. On my landing, I was received by the
+Vice-consul (an opulent Jew, and a native of Barbary), accompanied by
+the commanding officer and his troop. They conducted me to the
+Custom-house, which is built of stone, and whitewashed, arid, at a
+distance, appears to very great advantage. We entered this public
+building by an arched gateway, and proceeded through a winding passage
+into a quadrangle, in the centre of which is a well of excellent
+water. Near the well was an arcade, shaded by a grape-vine, to which I
+was conducted, and there placed in an old arm-chair. The Vice-consul
+and the Moorish commandant seated themselves cross-legged, upon mats
+spread upon the floor, and dinner, consisting of roasted fowls and
+fried sardinias, was immediately served.
+
+After dinner my baggage was put upon mules, and a saddle-horse was
+brought for me. This animal was perfectly white, and loaded with an
+enormous saddle, which had a large peak before and behind, covered
+with a scarlet cloth, and furnished with a pair of stirrups of a
+curious form, much resembling a coal-scuttle; but, _outré_ as
+this appeared, I assure you, I found myself very comfortably seated,
+and perfectly secure from falling.  Thus equipped, we set forward for
+Tetuan, accompanied by a Moorish officer and twelve horsemen.
+
+Whips are not in fashion in this country, and their place is supplied
+by two long ends of the bridle, cut to a point; but the horses, though
+very spirited, are perfectly under command, and need neither whip nor
+spur.
+
+The town of Tetuan is seen at a great distance, from being built, like
+Tangiers, on the declivity of a high hill, and the houses being
+whitewashed. The road from the Custom-house is abominably bad; it lies
+across a wearisome, barren plain, surrounded by craggy mountains. Here
+and there, indeed, may be seen a small fertile spot, covered with
+cattle, sheep, and goats, and occasionally a well, encompassed by a
+wall of broad flat stones, capable of affording a seat to a dozen
+people.  On approaching the city, however, the country appears more
+cultivated, luxuriant, and rich.
+
+The figures of some common women, apparently employed in agricultural
+occupations, struck me with surprise, as their dress was quite
+different from any I had seen when in this country before. On their
+head they wore a straw hat, of an enormous circumference; under this
+was a piece of white cloth extending over the forehead to the eyes;
+and immediately below this another, which reached as far down as the
+chin; their eyes peeping through the intermediate space. Their bodies
+were enveloped in a coarse haik, a species of serge of their own
+manufacture.
+
+Upon entering the city gate, one of my guards took hold of my bridle,
+and conducted me over innumerable rocks, to the Jewish town. The
+surface of the ground being an uneven rock, which every where remains
+unlevelled, the streets consist of abrupt ascents and descents, even
+worse than those of Larache; they are also extremely narrow and dirty;
+and as the houses have no windows towards the streets, you in fact
+pass along between two dead walls, almost suffocated by a hot and
+fetid atmosphere.
+
+When we reached the house of the Vice-consul, I was presented with a
+glass of _aguardiente_, for refreshment. After having passed the
+evening in the company of a numerous party of Barbary Jews, I retired
+to bed; and in the morning I waited on the Governor, to pay my
+respects to him. On our way thither, I was not a little surprised to
+see our Vice-consul pull off his slippers as we passed the mosques,
+and walk bare-footed. I soon learned, that the Jews are compelled to
+pay this tribute of respect, from which Christians are exempt,
+although they do not escape very frequent insults when walking through
+the city.
+
+We found His Excellency sitting cross-legged on a tiger-skin, smoking
+his pipe, under a niche in one of the courts of his mansion.  He
+received me with great politeness, and assured me that every thing
+should be arranged to render my journey to Larache safe and
+agreeable. Both, the Governor and his secretary asked me numberless
+questions respecting the laws and manners of the English; to all of
+which I gave short and general answers.
+
+As we returned from the castle we passed through a street of unusual
+breadth, on each side of which were the shops of the merchants.  I
+thence proceeded to take a general survey of the city; examining the
+different places allotted to people engaged in various branches of
+trade, and the manufactories of silk, carpets, and mats; and
+afterwards went to the public markets for meat, poultry, vegetables,
+cattle, sheep, horses, and mules. They are in spacious squares, and
+are exceedingly well stocked. I next went to see the _Socco_, which is
+a place appointed for the sale of several articles of wearing apparel
+as well as all sorts of goods, by public auction. The auctioneer walks
+backwards and forwards, exhibiting the commodities for sale, and
+bawling out the different prices offered. We returned, through several
+intricate streets, to the Jews' quarters, much fatigued, and worried
+with the impertinence and curiosity of the inhabitants.
+
+LETTER VIII.
+
+_Tetuan--The Jews much oppressed there--particularly the
+Females--Costume--Singularity of the Streets in the Jewish
+Town--Ceuta--Would be invaluable to England--Melilla--Summoned to
+visit the Emperor._
+
+Tetuan, ---- 1806.
+
+There is little that is remarkable in this town, beside what I
+mentioned in my last.  It is distant twenty miles from _Ceuta_, a
+Spanish fortress, and twelve from the Mediterranean, and is nearly
+opposite to the rock of Gibraltar. It has a good trade, and contains
+about eighty thousand inhabitants, twenty thousand of which are Jews,
+said to be very rich. The Jews are tolerably civilized in their
+manners, but are dreadfully oppressed by the Moors. Seldom a day
+passes but some gross outrage or violence is offered to the Jewish
+women, the generality of whom are very handsome, though their dress is
+by no means calculated to set off, but rather to detract from, their
+beauty.
+
+Men, women, and children, still preserve the same costume as in the
+time of Moses. You cannot conceive any thing more ridiculous than the
+_tout ensemble_ of a Barbary Jewess in full dress. Every part of her
+apparel is rich, but is so heavy, that, to an European, nothing can
+appear more awkward and unbecoming.  The Jewish ladies wear immense
+ear-rings.  I have observed several full twelve inches in
+circumference, and of a proportionate thickness; and a few ornaments
+being affixed to the ear-ring, I leave you to judge what materials
+their ears must be made of, to bear such a weighty appendage.
+
+The Jewish town is quite distinct from that of the Moors; but the
+difference between them is very little: the streets are equally narrow
+and dirty, and the houses have no windows on the outside; the roofs
+are also quite flat; the only variation is, that the streets are
+covered with a roof extending from the houses on each side, and have
+the appearance of subterraneous passages. There is a regular
+communication between the houses at the top, which is the favourite
+scene of recreation. Some of the women scarcely ever take the air,
+excepting on these flat roofs: in short, the inhabitants, both Jews
+and Moors, dance, sing, and take all their amusements on them. The
+rooms of the Jewish houses (as well as of the Moors) are long, narrow,
+and lofty, resembling galleries. Most of the houses are occupied by
+several families, which are generally large. Those inhabited by the
+more opulent are kept tolerably neat, and are adorned with rich and
+curious furniture; but they are, for the most part, exceedingly dirty;
+and the exhalations from the garlic and oil, which they use in great
+quantities in frying their fish, are enough to suffocate a person not
+entirely divested of the sense of smelling.  Their taste is so
+exquisitely refined, in regard to the oil they use, that they prefer
+our lamp-oil to any other, on account of its high flavour.
+
+Notwithstanding all these apparent obstacles to health, they contrive
+to preserve it admirably well. To an Englishman, their mode of life
+would scarcely appear worthy to be called living, but merely
+vegetating. Since the last plague, however, in Barbary, which
+destroyed a vast number of the Jews, they have not suffered from any
+infectious or contagious disorder, and their population has augmented
+so prodigiously, that the Emperor must, however reluctantly, extend
+the limits of their town. The Jews marry extremely young.  It is not
+at all unusual to see a married couple, whose united ages do not
+exceed twenty-two or twenty-three years.
+
+I cannot quit Tetuan, without giving you some account of _Ceuta_,
+which is at so small a distance from it. From its situation, it
+perfectly corresponds with the _Exillissa_ of _Ptolemy_, being the
+first maritime town to the eastward of the ancient _Tingis_, or modern
+Tangiers. It also clearly appears to have been the _Septa_ described
+by _Procopius_, who, with many others, derives this name from the
+adjacent seven hills. It was a place of great note in the time of the
+Vandals. It is now a strong regular fortified town. Ceuta is thirty
+miles from Tangiers, and nearly opposite to the entrance of the bay of
+Gibraltar.  It is nominally still in the hands of the Spaniards; but
+it is confidently rumoured, and believed, to have been ceded by treaty
+to the French. This important fortress has been, and is still,
+occasionally most awfully distressed for want of provisions; insomuch,
+that if closely besieged by land, by the Moors, and blocked up by the
+English by sea, it could not hold out any considerable time in
+possession of the French. The advantages resulting to Great Britain
+from such a valuable acquisition are incalculable.
+
+Every person who is acquainted with the situation of Ceuta, the rival
+of Gibraltar, must be very much astonished, that it should still be
+permitted to remain in the possession of the Spaniards, since a
+squadron of men of war, and a flotilla of gun and bomb vessels, might
+reduce it, even without the assistance, of the Moors; and thereby
+England would be sole mistress of the entrance to the
+Mediterranean. Convoys could collect in safety at Ceuta, and our trade
+in this sea be comparatively secure from annoyance. I understand this
+place was closely invested by Muley Yezid (the late Emperor of
+Morocco, and brother to the present Emperor), but for want of proper
+co-operation by sea, where it is most vulnerable, he was necessitated
+to raise the siege, and withdraw his troops.
+
+This garrison is supplied with provisions from Spain, the Moors being
+prohibited, on pain of death, from sending their commodities thither;
+and in order that this interdiction may be strictly observed, picquets
+and posts of Moorish cavalry and infantry are so judiciously
+stationed, that it is impossible for the mountaineers to smuggle in
+the smallest article.  The supplies from Spain are extremely
+precarious, from the necessity of conveying them in small fishing
+craft, to prevent their falling into the hands of the English.
+
+_Melilla_ also is in the possession of the Spaniards: this maritime
+town lies to the eastward of Tetuan. Many authors assert it to have
+been founded by the _Carthaginians_. It is likewise called _Melela_,
+from the great quantity of honey annually obtained in its
+neighbourhood. It was taken by the Spaniards about the beginning of
+the fifteenth century, and has remained under their dominion ever
+since. It has a strong castle, built on a rock, named _Gomera_. Along
+this coast, particularly from Tetuan to Melilla, there are several
+coves, in which the Spanish gunboats, and other small armed vessels,
+find shelter in cases of necessity. Indeed _Melilla_ is itself a place
+of refuge for those vessels of the enemy fitted out for the annoyance
+of our Mediterranean trade.
+
+I shall conclude this with a copy of a letter, which I have just
+received from Mr. Ross, the acting Consul-general in the room of the
+late Mr. Matra:
+
+
+"DEAR SIR,                 _Tangiers_,
+
+"I heard only to-day of your arrival at Tetuan, on your way to
+Larache; and this evening I received a letter from Sidy Mahommed
+Eslawee, Governor of that place, to request, that, if I knew you were
+in this country, I would beg you to use, every possible endeavour to
+come to him at Larache, and to accompany him to the Emperor, who
+wishes very much to see you. Let me therefore request your repairing
+as quickly as possible to Larache, and joining him before he departs;
+but should you miss him, he has left orders with his
+Lieutenant-governor there, to forward you on immediately. I should
+hope this jaunt will prove highly beneficial to you. Nothing on my
+part shall be wanting, either in advice, or information, by which you
+may think I can be of service. If you should see Governor Eslawee
+before my letter reaches him, give him my kindest and best wishes; and
+say that I hope, as he has been for a great many years past a sincere
+friend to the British nation, his friendship will continue true and
+steadfast.
+
+    "I remain, dear Sir,
+
+      "Your most obedient humble servant,
+
+             (Signed) "JOHN ROSS,
+
+                 "To Dr. Buffa,
+                  &c. &c. &c.
+                   Tetuan."
+
+
+In consequence of this request, I am making preparations for my
+departure by to-morrow morning. I shall write to you again from
+Larache. Though I have described every thing worthy of notice in that
+town in a former letter, yet I know you will wish to learn how I am
+received by the Governor on this my second trip.
+
+
+
+
+LETTER IX.
+
+_Journey to Larache--Annual Socco of St. Martin--No Christian
+permitted to witness it--Express Order for that Purpose in the
+Author's Favour--Specimen of native medical Skill--Reception at
+Larache--Complain of the Impositions of Governor Ash-Ash--Comparative
+Tariff--Effect the Renewal of the old Tariff with increasing
+Advantages._
+
+
+Larache.
+
+Before I introduce you a second time to the Governor, or relate my
+reception from him, I must beg leave to give you a description of my
+journey hither. Methinks I hear you say, "That is unnecessary, as, no
+doubt, it was much the same as before." No such thing, I assure you;
+for, in the first place, my style of travelling was infinitely
+superior, being provided, by the Moorish Governor, with a double
+guard, and having also eleven mules allowed me to carry my baggage,
+which, with two muleteers, my interpreter, and servant, made no
+despicable appearance. I had, besides, to contend with very stormy
+weather, which gave the country quite a different aspect.  From
+incessant rains, the rivers had overflowed, and nearly the whole of
+the country was under water, which rendered our journey not only
+difficult but dangerous. We were obliged to halt for two days, near a
+village, till the waters subsided; and during this time we feasted on
+fine fresh-water fish, and wild fowl. On the third day we proceeded;
+and here I must not omit an occurrence which served still further to
+give me an insight into the general character of this once powerful
+people.
+
+Fortunately (or unfortunately, some would say, who weighed the perils
+I had to encounter in the accomplishment of my wishes) I passed, on
+the day the inhabitants were meeting, the annual Socco of St. Martin,
+so called from its being held at the place whence the river of that
+name takes its source. I did not pass immediately over the spot, but
+so near, that I could perceive a multitude of people assembled
+together.  To obtain a better view of what they were about,
+notwithstanding the representations of my conductors, that no
+Christian was suffered to be present at this fair, I proceeded towards
+the crowd; but before I could reach the place, I was assailed by
+hundreds of people, who saluted me with such a discharge of stones,
+and even some fire-arms, that I was extremely glad to make good my
+retreat, which, with the aid of my guard, I effected, without
+sustaining any injury.
+
+Enraged at being thus foiled in my attempt, I hit upon a plan the most
+likely to succeed in gratifying my curiosity; which was, to send the
+Serjeant to the Cadi, to insist upon going up to the fair, and
+threatening to complain to the Emperor if he refused me. This had the
+desired effect. A deputation was ordered by the Cadi, with assurances
+that I was welcome among them. Accordingly, I repaired once more, to
+the scene of action.
+
+The great show of cattle, sheep, &c. exposed for public sale, by men
+and women half naked, first attracted my attention; which was however
+soon diverted from them to a Moorish juggler, and a rope-dancer, the
+latter performing several feats of great muscular strength. The people
+had formed a complete circle, sitting cross-legged round the
+rope-dancer. He was making a good collection, when the arrival of a
+celebrated _tweeb_ (the native term for a physician) spoiled his
+sport. At the sound of an instrument somewhat resembling a horn, they
+all started up, and flocked to the standard of this professor of the
+healing art, leaving the poor rope-dancer to finish his performance,
+or not, as he pleased. I found this new constellation to be a doctor
+of high renown, and a reputed saint, who lived in a neighbouring
+village, and who, as was his custom, had condescended to honour this
+annual meeting with his presence; selling and dispensing his
+medicines, arid at the same time performing surgical and dental
+operations.
+
+In order to have a full view of this Moorish Esculapius, I approached
+as closely as the multitude collected round him would allow. He was
+attended by a negro slave, and two disciples.  Ere long, four Moors
+brought a poor emaciated wretch, to obtain advice and relief from this
+redoubtable doctor. The unfortunate man was unable, from his reduced
+state, to stand. Having examined the eyes, tongue, and face of his
+patient, he made a solemn pause, and appeared to deliberate very
+profoundly, at length, he decided upon blood-letting _ad deliquium_,
+and immediately took from his patient eighteen ounces of blood; nor
+would he, in all probability, have stopped there, had the strength of
+the poor man allowed him to continue; but having brought on a
+_syncope_, he was obliged to desist. The arm was tied up with a
+handkerchief; the doctor received his fee from one of his patient's
+relatives; and the patient was left entirely to the efforts of nature
+in his favour. For humanity's sake, I afforded him every assistance in
+my power, and, after much difficulty, succeeded in restoring him to
+his senses; but he was so weakened by the absurd treatment he had
+experienced, as to have no chance of surviving the day. As the
+multitude firmly believed him to be quite dead, this apparent
+resuscitation astonished the people beyond measure; and from this
+circumstance supplies of every kind of provision were poured in on me,
+from all quarters.
+
+Soon after the above scene, a young woman presented herself, afflicted
+with a violent tooth-ache. The doctor, after his usual deliberation,
+resolved to extract the dolent tooth; and taking a string from his
+box, he fastened it round the tooth, and by a sudden jerk (which, from
+its force, I expected would have brought away jaw and all), he drew it
+out.  The poor girl bore the operation with exemplary patience and
+fortitude; and having satisfied the sapient doctor, she retired.
+
+Whilst I was thus occupied in observing the wonderful proceedings of
+this singular practitioner, an uproar in another part of the fair
+attracted my notice. Curiosity prompted me to inquire into its cause,
+and I found it was occasioned by a wild mountaineer, who had been
+detected in the act of stealing a Moorish garment.  He was seized, and
+taken before the Cadi, who ordered him the bastinado immediately;
+which was inflicted with such severity, that I could not forbear
+interceding for the fellow. The Cadi kindly remitted part of the
+punishment, and the culprit was set at liberty.
+
+Finding nothing else likely to compensate my longer stay, I summoned
+my suite, and proceeded on my journey, reflecting on the mutability of
+all earthly prosperity, which was so strongly exemplified in the
+history of the Moorish nation. The scene I had just left, argued such
+a small remove from absolute barbarism, that, more than once, I could
+not avoid exclaiming: "Are these the descendants of those people, who,
+for so many centuries, gave laws to the greater part of Spain, and
+subjected whole provinces to their dominion?  But those times are
+past, and, 'like the baseless fabric of a vision,' left 'not a wreck
+behind'."
+
+After a journey of six days (which might have been performed in three,
+but for the delays I have spoken of), we arrived here. His Excellency
+the Governor, and his suite, came out to meet me. He embraced me very
+cordially, and conducted me to the castle, where I was served with a
+sumptuous collation. The Governor being in hourly expectation of the
+orders of his Sovereign to repair to court, has his route made out,
+and has requested me to keep myself in readiness to depart at an
+hour's notice.
+
+
+I have received several letters by express, from, our Consul-general,
+complaining of Governor _Ash-Ash_, who has refused granting the
+regular supplies to our fleet, and the garrison of Gibraltar. From the
+character I have given you of this man, in a former letter, you will
+feel less astonished, when I inform you of his shameful conduct.  His
+rapacity and avarice are unbounded.  He refuses the regular supplies,
+insisting upon an additional duty being paid, besides the enormous one
+already imposed, on articles furnished to the English, contrary to the
+tariff established by treaty. Accordingly, I laid the following copy
+of the original tariff before His Excellency, and subjoined the
+imposition of Ash-Ash.  _Order to be observed by the British
+Vice-consuls, at Tetuan and Tangiers, respecting the English._
+
+
+                                                   DUTY.
+                                              Spanish Dollars
+    Cows, calves, and oxen, whether
+      stall-fed or not, per head                 5 now  25
+
+                                               Cobs.     Cobs.
+    Sheep and goats, per ditto                   2  --    7
+    Fowls, per dozen                             1  --    6
+    Lemons and oranges, per thousand             1  --    5
+    Eggs, Per ditto                              1  --    5
+    Dates, per quintal                           4  --    8
+    Orange-trees, each                           1  --    2
+    Figs, raisins, almonds, nuts, rhubarb,
+       oil, honey, soap, olives,
+       and red pepper, per quintal               2  --   12
+    Wheat, barley, oats, rice, and bean, 
+       per measure                               1  --    6
+    Straw, by the nett                         1/4  --    1
+    Pomegranates, amber-wood, %c., per quintal   1  --    4
+    Bees-wax and candles, per ditto             14  --   26
+    Ostrich feathers, per lb.                    2  --   16
+    Ivory, copper, sandrach, chohob,
+       and gum arabic, per quintal               5  --   15
+    Indigo, per ditto                            1  --   10
+    Goat skins, per quintal                      4  --    8
+    Beef ditto, per ditto                        3  --    6
+    Lion and tiger ditto, each                   4  --   12
+    Common tanned leather,per quintal            1  --    5
+    Morocco ditto                             free  --    5
+    Wool and hemp, per quintal                   3  --    6
+    All shoes and slippers,per hundred pair      4  --   10
+    Moorish caps, per ditto                      4  --   10
+    Mats, each                                   1  --    5
+    Mules, ditto                                10  --   50
+    Asses, ditto                                 5  --   10
+    Silk alhaiks, ditto                          2  --    5
+    Haiks of other kinds, ditto                  1  --    3
+
+This is a correct translation of the agreement, and tariff, settled
+eleven years ago, between the present Emperor Muley Solyman, and the
+late Consul-general Mr. Matra.  Having laid this before His
+Excellency, I was so fortunate as to prevail on him to request the
+Emperor to renew it, and to grant an increase of fresh provisions,
+during the war, to the fleet off Cadiz, and to the garrison of
+Gibraltar.
+
+It is impossible to doubt for a moment, at at whose instigation it was
+that Ash-Ash behaved in this infamous manner. It is certainly the
+interest of the French nation to prevent, if possible, our receiving
+supplies from Barbary; consequently we cannot wonder that every means
+should be employed to accomplish this end, and Ash-Ash is certainly
+the fittest instrument, from his hatred to the English: fortunately,
+however, he is not a free agent. My friend, and the friend of the
+English, the good Governor of this place, referred the whole to the
+Emperor, who has very satisfactorily adjusted every thing to our
+advantage, and the mortification of the French Consul, and his tool.
+
+At the same time that His Excellency received the answer from the
+Emperor to the above-mentioned application, a letter arrived,
+requiring his immediate attendance at Fez; from which place you shall
+again hear from me.
+
+LETTER X.
+
+_Depart from Larache with a little Army--Moorish military
+Salute--Numerous Villages--Customary Procession of the
+Inhabitants--Judicial Arrangements--River Beth resembles the Po--Herds
+of Camels--Arrive at Mequinez--French Falsehood again put
+down--Excellent Road from Mequinez--Fertility and Luxuriance of the
+adjacent Country--Procession to the Sanctuary of Sidy
+Edris--Multiplicity of Saints--Ceremony demonstrative of the Emperor's
+Favour--Take possession of my new Residence._
+
+
+Fez, ---- 1806.
+
+In consequence of the dispatches received from the Emperor, we left
+Larache the same day. The Governor commands a territory of two hundred
+English miles. He put himself at the head of his troops, which
+amounted to six thousand cavalry, divided into squadrons,
+distinguished by their respective standards.  There were in his train,
+besides, a prodigious number of mules, some carrying field equipage
+and provisions, others the treasures, consisting of the collected
+taxes, and presents for the Emperor.
+
+This little army moved on in tolerably good order and discipline. It
+was preceded by an officer at the head of a small corps, doing the
+duty of a Quarter-master-general. We were met on our way by several
+officers, with small detachments of soldiers, under the government of
+His Excellency. The Moorish mode of saluting attracted my attention;
+when on a level in point of rank, the officers embrace each other, and
+then kiss the back of their own hand; but in saluting a superior, they
+kiss the hem of his garment; upon which he presents his hand, and they
+salute it. I assure you, they do all this with considerable grace.
+
+In passing through villages (which in this part are very numerous, and
+formed of a much greater collection of tents than those described in a
+former letter), we were received by a great concourse of men, women,
+and children, shouting, and making a noise exactly resembling the
+whoop of the North American savages. I was informed, that this was
+their usual mode of expressing their joy and mirth, on all great and
+solemn occasions.  A venerable Moor, the chief of the surrounding
+villages, accompanied by the military and civil officers, and by the
+principal inhabitants, advanced to kiss the garment of His Excellency:
+this ceremony was closed by a train of women, preceded by an elderly
+matron, carrying a standard of colours, made of various fillets of
+silk; and by a young one of great beauty, supporting on her head a
+bowl of fresh milk, which she presented, first to the Governor (or, as
+he is otherwise called, the Sheik), then to me, and afterwards to all
+the officers. This ceremony is always performed by the prettiest young
+woman of the village; and it not unfrequently happens, that her beauty
+captivates the affections of the great men (sometimes even the
+Emperor), and she becomes the legitimate and favourite wife.
+
+When we arrived at any village, His Excellency halted to receive the
+report of the commanding officer; and to inquire if any murder,
+robbery, or other crimes, militating against the laws and constitution
+of the empire, had been perpetrated. This excellent man patiently
+listened to all the complaints made to him; and after hearing both
+parties with the greatest impartiality, he ordered such delinquents as
+stood fairly convicted to be punished by imprisonment, or fine,
+according to the nature of their offences. At one place where he held
+a court of justice, he received information of a band of assassins who
+had lately committed several murders and highway robberies, and had
+violated many young women, whom they afterwards destroyed.  By this
+prompt and judicious arrangement, they were all secured, and brought
+before him. He ordered them to be dragged in the rear of his troops to
+Fez; there to receive whatever punishment the Emperor might think fit
+to award them.
+
+We performed our route by short and easy stages, on a road which is
+perfectly level, and very different from those between Tetuan or
+Tangiers and Larache. We generally halted about two o'clock in the
+afternoon, and encamped; struck tents again at four in the morning,
+and then moved on regularly without noise or confusion.
+
+On approaching the river _Beth_, we halted, to allow the baggage to
+cross, which was expeditiously conveyed in a large ferry-boat; the
+horses and mules were obliged to swim over, a spectacle curious and
+diverting enough.  I passed over with the Governor; after which the
+boat went backwards and forwards till the whole of the troops were
+transported across the river, when we encamped, the side which we had
+quitted being occupied by another little army, headed by the Governor
+of another district. The two opposite camps had much the appearance of
+two hostile armies previous to a battle.
+
+This river very much resembles the _Po_ in Italy, and is perfectly
+navigable. On each side are immense fields of corn and rice,
+intersected by tracts of waste land covered with broom and heath, and
+spots of pasture-land on which large droves of camels graze. To
+prevent the camels from straying, they have one of their fore legs
+bent at the first joint, and tied up: they are attended by boys, who
+take them out early in the morning, and at night bring them back to
+the tents, before which each camel takes his place as regularly as our
+cows do in their stalls.
+
+The next morning we reached a castle, and a ruinous walled town,
+occupied by soldiers, and slaves, who look after the herds of mules
+belonging to the Emperor. It is situated on a hill, whence I had a
+prospect of the immense plain we had first traversed, upon which not a
+single tree is to be seen.
+
+About noon, on the sixth day, we approached a lofty mountain, which
+terminated this extensive plain, and formed the commencement of a
+chain of high hills, which we ascended and descended successively, and
+at length descried the large and populous city of Mequinez: we passed
+by a long aqueduct, a remnant of ancient architecture, and several
+Roman ruins, and reached one of the great gates of the town, where we
+were met by a strong detachment of soldiers commanded by the Governor,
+who, after the salutations and ceremonies usual on such occasions,
+escorted us to the palace of Eslawee, the Governor of Larache, where I
+was kindly received and most hospitably entertained by all his
+relations and friends.
+
+On the morning after our arrival at Mequinez, an express arrived from
+the Emperor with an answer to a representation which I had made
+concerning the loss of a French privateer on the coast of Barbary; I
+had sent it at the same time with that respecting the tariff, and
+expected the answers together.  The affair was this: a French
+privateer attempted to board several of our transports, laden with
+bullocks, from Tangiers for Gibraltar; but had scarcely succeeded with
+one, when the Confounder gun-brig, which was appointed to convoy them,
+came unobserved, within pistol-shot, and after an obstinate engagement
+of two hours the Frenchman ran on shore, and went to pieces
+immediately under the Moorish battery.  This was considered, by the
+French Consul and his party, as an open violation of neutrality, and
+also a gross insult to His Imperial Majesty; and as such it was
+represented to him by Governor _Ash-Ash_, seconded by a letter from
+the French Consul, and supported by all his partisans. On our part,
+the statement was founded on simple facts, which perfectly satisfied
+the Emperor, and Governor _Ash-Ash_ received a severe reprimand,
+accompanied by the remark, that His Imperial Majesty regretted the
+English had been so passive on this occasion, and that his subjects
+did not exterminate every Frenchman that presumed to land on his
+shores without his permission. You will feel assured that this
+additional triumph on our part gave me no small satisfaction.
+
+My good friend Eslawee obtained leave likewise, to repose himself and
+his army for three days in his native place. This condescension was
+esteemed as an excellent omen.  At the conclusion of the appointed
+time, we set off for this our ultimate destination. The road from
+Mequinez to Fez is excellent, extending along a pleasant and spacious
+plain, encompassed by high mountains, and intersected by small rivers,
+over which are stone bridges. These rivers are divided into several
+branches, which are again subdivided by the inhabitants, and carried
+in canals to water their lands. The prospect of the country is every
+where luxuriant in the extreme, and continually presents the most
+interesting objects.  A scattered ruin, a large village, a meandering
+river, or a fine natural cascade, vineyards, woods, corn-fields,
+meadows, and saints' houses, surrounded by beautiful gardens and
+shrubberies, all lying in endless variety, formed the most picturesque
+landscapes.
+
+As we left our quarters at Mequinez rather late, we encamped at eight
+o'clock in the evening at the opening of the plain I have just
+described. The next morning we set off much earlier than usual, but
+had not proceeded far when our progress was interrupted by a
+prodigious multitude of people, who pressed forward with such
+eagerness, that we were obliged to stand aside, and allow them to
+pass. Men, on horseback and on foot, women, and children, formed a
+procession which extended as far as the eye could reach. They were
+advancing in several divisions, each division preceded by a man
+bearing a standard, and by a band of music (if the horrible discord
+produced by their instruments could be dignified with the name of
+music), the people accompanying the band with their voices, shouting,
+bawling, and bellowing their national songs with the greatest
+vehemence.
+
+These people were on their way to visit the sanctuary of _Sidy Edris_,
+the founder of Mahometanism in this country: it stands on the mountain
+_Zaaron_, at the western side of the plain of Fez, and near the city
+of Mequinez.  Close to the sanctuary is a village, the inhabitants of
+which are held in the highest veneration, their huts and tents being
+consecrated to the Mahometan devotion, and, as well as the sanctuary,
+forming asylums for malefactors, which are never violated even by the
+Emperor. After this visit to the sanctuary, they attend an annual
+meeting, where they feast for three days, amusing themselves with
+dancing, fighting with wild beasts, and committing all kinds of excess
+in the ancient Bacchanalian style.
+
+Formerly saints sprang up in Barbary like mushrooms. A Moor, seized in
+the night with a slight fit of insanity, was considered in the morning
+as a new saint, and as such he was revered, and his name added to
+their list of saints. In consequence of this, he was permitted to do
+whatever his fancy directed, without suffering the smallest
+molestation.  Hence many worthless wretches feigned madness, in order
+that they might, with impunity, gratify their avaricious and
+revengeful passions, or their violent and ungovernable lust. The
+number of these impostors a few years back was incredible, and they
+literally held sovereign rule, from their numbers and great influence
+over this superstitious and fanatic people; but since the accession of
+Muley Solyman to the throne of Morocco, their influence and their
+numbers have considerably decreased. The country has been in a great
+measure swept and cleansed of imposters and other profligate persons,
+and the rest approach more and more towards a tolerable degree of
+civilization, under his paternal care and example. His chief study and
+attention appear to be directed to the welfare and happiness of his
+people.
+
+We received no further interruptions; but reached this place on the
+26th of April. On approaching the walls of the imperial palace, His
+Excellency formed his little army into a line of two deep. They fired
+a _feu de joie_ with great precision and correctness. This done, they
+filed off to the place allotted for our encampment. Shortly after, two
+black slaves arrived from the palace, with a large bowl of fresh milk,
+and several cakes of bread, which were presented with much ceremony to
+His Excellency the Sheik, and received by him with marks of the most
+profound respect.  This compliment was also paid to me, and to all his
+officers. This ceremony in Barbary, indicates that the person so
+honoured is a friend and favourite at the court of Morocco. The other
+Governors, with the exception of three, received the same honour,
+successively as they assembled on the plains of Fez, to be afterwards
+reviewed by the Emperor at the anniversary celebration of the birth of
+Mahomet. The three disgraced Governors were arrested the next day,
+thrown into prison, and condemned to remain there at the pleasure of
+the Emperor. Their whole property, amounting, as I am told, to several
+hundred thousand dollars, was confiscated.
+
+My friend finding himself thus perfectly secure, appeared in high
+spirits, and proceeded to the palace to prostrate himself before his
+sovereign. He was received with every mark of the highest approbation
+and favour. At his return to the camp, he came to me with a smiling
+countenance, and related the flattering reception he had met with. He
+then informed me, that the Emperor had given orders, that a convenient
+house should be immediately provided for me, and that an officer of
+the household was coming to conduct me to my new habitation. This
+officer arrived while we were talking, and I followed him to my place
+of residence, which I found exceedingly neat and commodious. This I
+continue to occupy, and am furnished abundantly with all the
+delicacies which the city of Fez affords.
+
+I have exceeded the bounds of moderation in this letter already, and
+must therefore postpone my introduction till my next.
+
+LETTER XI.
+
+_Imperial Review of eighty thousand Cavalry--The Palace--Introduction
+to the Emperor--Visit the Seraglio--Beauty of the Sultana--Her
+Indisposition--Her Influence over the Emperor--His Person described._
+
+Fez, ---- 1806.
+
+Late in the evening of the day of my arrival, I was visited at my
+house by an officer, who informed me that his royal master would
+review his troops the following morning, and that, if I chose to be
+present, I must repair to the palace precisely at four o'clock.
+
+I was there exactly at the time, and in a few minutes the Emperor
+appeared, mounted on a beautiful white horse, attended by an officer
+of state, holding over him a large damask umbrella, most elegantly
+embroidered, and followed by all his great officers, body-guards, and
+a numerous band of music. He was greeted with huzzas in the Moorish
+style by the populace, and received at all the gates and avenues of
+the town with a general discharge of artillery and small arms, the
+people falling upon their knees in the dust as he passed.  The streets
+were covered with mats, and the road, as far as the plain where the
+troops were drawn out, was strewed with all kinds of flowers.
+
+The army was formed into a regular street of three deep on each side,
+each corps distinguished by a standard; it extended to a great length,
+through the immense plain of Fez, and presented a grand military
+spectacle.  There were not less than eighty thousand cavalry.  This
+review was finished in six hours, and His Imperial Majesty was so much
+pleased with the steady, orderly, and soldierlike appearance of his
+troops, that he commanded a horse to be given to each of the officers,
+and an additional suit of clothes and six ducats more than is
+customary to the men. No other exercise was performed on this
+occasion, than charging, firing off their pieces, and priming and
+loading at full gallop, by alternate divisions.  Thus an incessant
+fire was kept up during the day.
+
+The ground being perfectly level and good, no accident occurred. The
+dress of the Moorish army differs very little from that of the
+people. The officers are distinguished by their turbans, from the
+privates, who wear red caps. They are considered most excellent
+horsemen, and appeared to be supplied with very fine young horses, and
+well appointed. I can say but little of the infantry and artillery of
+His Imperial Majesty, not having had an opportunity of seeing them
+assemble in any sort of exercise. The cavalry are unquestionably most
+capital marksmen, and very capable of annoying and harassing and
+checking the progress of an invading army. The men are stout, strong,
+and robust, accustomed to a continual state of warfare, and, from
+their simple and moderate manner of living, fully adequate to sustain
+the fatigues and privations of the most arduous campaign.
+
+In the Moorish army there is a prodigious number of blacks, who are
+reckoned very loyal, and perfectly devoted to the Emperor.  This
+accounts for so many black governors being at the head of the most
+important districts and provinces of Barbary,
+
+I returned very late from the review, and had scarcely dined when a
+messenger came to request my early attendance the following morning,
+to be presented to His Imperial Majesty.  I repaired betimes to the
+palace, which is an immense pile of buildings, enclosed by a strong
+wall and a large deep ditch. It has four great gates, plated, both on
+the outside and in, with sheets of iron. I entered the front gate, and
+by a covered way reached a spacious court, surrounded by a piazza,
+under which several field-pieces and small mortars were placed. Here I
+was met by Sidy Ameth, a black officer, who acts as master of the
+ceremonies, and lord in waiting. He received me with great politeness,
+and conducted me, through another gate and covered way, to a second
+square more spacious than the first. In the centre was a most
+beautiful white marble basin, into which played a fountain of water
+clear as crystal. Over it was a kind of rotunda, supported by columns
+of elegant black marble. This superb square is paved with small pieces
+of marble, intermixed with pebbles of various colours, in the mosaic
+style. It is formed by four wings of the building. The front wing,
+exclusive of its magnificent entrance, contains several apartments and
+waiting-rooms, occupied by the great officers of state; the right, the
+library, and the treasury of the Emperor; the left, a superb mosque,
+and a school-room for the use of the Emperor's children, where they
+are taught to read and write, and study the Alcoran; and finally, the
+back, the great hall of audience, in which His Imperial Majesty was
+seated cross-legged upon a kind of couch, under a crimson velvet
+canopy, most beautifully decorated with figured work in gold.
+
+I was introduced by Sidy Ameth; and after making my obsequious
+reverence, I stood at a great distance, waiting the Imperial commands,
+when His Majesty was graciously pleased to order me, by signs, to draw
+near, and then, by means of an interpreter, he informed me, that, in
+consequence of the good I had done his subjects during my residence at
+Larache, he had long been anxious to see and consult me. He desired me
+to ask any favours I chose, either for myself or my country, and they
+should be granted immediately.  I thanked His Majesty for his
+condescension, and then presented him with a patent pistol, with seven
+barrels, which he examined very attentively in every part, and
+appeared highly pleased with its construction.
+
+He commanded the hall to be cleared, and in a very friendly and
+familiar way told me the nature of his complaint; after which he
+summoned the chief eunuch, and desired me to follow him to the
+seraglio, to prescribe for his favourite Sultana, who was seriously
+indisposed.  On leaving the hall of audience, we turned to the left,
+and arrived at a gate, which terminated the piazza on the right side
+of the square. Through this gate we entered a large passage, paved
+with marble; on each side were marble benches, upon which the eunuch
+informed me, the inferior eunuchs and the female attendants of the
+seraglio slept.  This passage conducted us to another square, on the
+right of which is the Imperial bath.  It is almost impossible to form
+an idea of the elegance and convenience of this structure, which is
+used only by the Emperor.
+
+Adjoining the bath is a refectory, which is constantly supplied with
+every kind of refreshment.  The other sides of this square contained
+the apartments of two or more ladies of His Imperial Majesty. It would
+be tedious to enumerate the several squares through which I passed;
+they differ only in splendour and magnificence, according to the rank
+and taste of those ladies to whom they belong: they all communicate
+from one piazza to another, by means of passages, such as I have
+described. I was extremely indebted to my black conductor for giving
+me an opportunity of seeing the whole of the seraglio; for I returned
+by a much less circuitous route than that by which I went, the
+apartments of the Sultana being just behind the Imperial bath.  But
+where shall I find words to give you an adequate idea of their lovely
+inhabitant? Conceive every thing that is beautiful, and you may
+possibly arrive near the mark. She is rather below the middle size,
+exquisitely fair, and well proportioned. When I first saw her, she was
+in a very doubtful state, and I reported accordingly to the Emperor;
+he was sensibly affected, and besought me to exert my utmost skill, to
+preserve a life of so much value to him. Happily, my efforts have been
+crowned with success, and I hope a very short time will restore her to
+perfect health. She controls him in every thing, and is considered,
+from her absolute dominion over him, as the fountain of all favours.
+
+The gardens of the seraglio are beautifully laid out by Europeans, and
+contain several elegant pavilions and summer-houses, where the ladies
+take tea and recreate themselves; baths, fountains, and solitary
+retreats for those inclined to meditation: in short, nothing is
+wanting to render this a Complete terrestrial paradise, but liberty,
+the deprivation of which must embitter every enjoyment.
+
+Muley Solyman, the present Emperor, is about thirty-eight years of
+age, in height about six feet two inches, of a tolerably fair
+complexion, with remarkably fine teeth, large dark eyes, aquiline
+nose, and black beard; the _tout ensemble_ of his countenance noble
+and majestic. He governs Barbary with discretion and moderation; in
+the distribution of justice, or in rewarding his subjects, he is just
+and impartial; in his private conduct no less pious and exemplary,
+than, in his public capacity, firm and resolute, prompt and
+courageous.  In my next letter I shall give you a brief account of the
+succession of Sovereigns from the time of _Edris_ to the present
+reigning family.
+
+LETTER XII.
+
+
+_Succession of the Sovereigns from their Founder to the present
+Emperor._
+
+
+Fez, ---- 1806.
+
+Edris; the founder of Mahometanism in Barbary, was succeeded by his
+posthumous son, _Edris the Second_, who founded the first monarchy,
+after that of Mahomet, in these regions; and it was called the Kingdom
+of the West. The family of Edris continued to reign for about a
+hundred and fifty years; but was disturbed, during the tenth century,
+by several intestine divisions, excited by a crowd of usurpers, which
+terminated in the total extinction of the Edrissites.
+
+The tribe of Mequinici seized on several provinces, and founded, on
+the ruins of the ancient, the present city of Mequinez.
+
+_Abu-Tessifin_, a Maraboot, or Monk, taking advantage of the divisions
+which convulsed these countries, and above all of the credulity of
+this fickle people, sent several of his disciples to preach and excite
+the multitude to revolt, under the pretext of recovering their
+liberties. This great impostor was the chief of the tribe of
+_Lamthunes_, surnamed _Morabethoon_, on account of the extreme rigour
+with which they observed the forms of the new religion.
+
+This tribe resided between Mount Atlas and the Desert. The Moors being
+weary of their Arabian rulers, flocked in crowds to the standard of
+Tessefin, who soon found himself at the head of a large army, by means
+of which he conquered, many provinces, and established himself
+Sovereign of Mauritania.
+
+He was succeeded by his son _Joseph-Ben-Tessefin_, who in 1086
+finished the city of Morakesh, or Morocco, which his father had begun,
+and there fixed his seat of government.  In 1097 he seized on the
+kingdom of Fez, and united it to that of Morocco: he also joined his
+forces to those of the Mahometans in Spain, and conquered the city of
+Seville, subdued all Andalusia, Grenada, and Murcia, penetrated as far
+as Cordova, and defeated the army of Alphonso VI. of Spain.  After
+which he returned, loaded with spoils, to Morocco, where he died. He
+was succeeded by his son _Aly_, who likewise passed over into Spain,
+but was defeated and slain by Alphonso at the battle of Moriella.
+
+His son _Brahem_, an indolent prince, and much addicted to pleasure,
+was proclaimed King of Morocco. His profligacy favoured the ambitious
+projects of a Mahometan preacher, named _Mahomet Abdallah_. This
+impostor assumed the name of _Mahedi, Commander of the Faithful_, and
+drew a host of people to his standard. In the course of his mission,
+he met another preacher, at the head of a multitude of followers, who
+also styled himself _Mahedi_, or _the Prophet_ expected at the end of
+ages.
+
+These two adventurers, consulting their mutual interest, coalesced,
+and having completely succeeded in seducing the people, by projects of
+reformation, _Abdallah_ was proclaimed King of Morocco, and
+_Abdul-Momen_, the other imposter, General of the Faithful. This
+haying effected the destruction of Brahem, he contrived to dispatch
+his colleague so privately as to avoid the imputation of being
+accessary to his death, and succeeded him in the sovereignty.  He
+demolished all the palaces and mosques of the Kings in Morocco, and
+laid the greater part of that city in ruins, it having shut its gates
+against him when, he presented himself before it; and he destroyed the
+young son of Brahem with his own hands. He afterwards, however,
+rebuilt Morocco, and died in 1155, in possession of the sovereign
+power.
+
+He was succeeded by his son Joseph, who passed over into Spain, and
+engaging with the armies of the Kings of Portugal and Leon, he was
+killed by a fall from his horse. His son _Abu-Jacob_, surnamed
+_Almonsor_ the Invincible, assumed the government, suppressed the
+divisions that distracted the country, and, rendered himself so
+powerful and formidable, that the Mahometan Kings in Spain elected him
+as their supreme ruler. After performing numberless gallant exploits,
+he disappeared on a sudden, as some assert, to perform the pilgrimage
+to Mecca; but it is most probable, he was secretly murdered and buried
+by the descendants of Abdallah. His son ascended the throne, but died
+in a very short time of grief, in consequence of his losses in Spain.
+He was the last King of this family.
+
+_Abdallah_, the Governor of Fez, of the tribe of Benimecius, usurped
+the crown of his master. Of his successors, the only prince who took
+part in the Mahometan wars in Spain was _Abul Hassen_, who conquered
+Gibraltar, and built the fort which still retains the name of the
+_Moorish Castle_. He was dethroned and assassinated by his son, _Abul
+Hassen_, a ferocious and ambitious tyrant, who left a son, named
+_Abu-Said_, of a very depraved character, in whose reign Ceuta, after
+a long siege, was taken by Don John, King of Portugal.
+
+These usurpers were completely extirpated by the house of Merini,
+which family in its turn was overcome by _Muley Mahomet_, a Xeriffe of
+the same tribe, who seized the reins of government. His successors did
+not long enjoy the fruit of their usurpation, but were most dreadfully
+disturbed by a series of revolutions and murders, fomented and
+perpetrated by the mountaineers, a resolute, ferocious, and restless
+people, who, after raising the various parts of the country in arms
+one against the other, and subjecting them to all the calamities of
+civil war, cruelly butchered _Muley Achmet_, the last of the sons of
+_Muley Sidan_ and proclaimed their chief, _Crom-el-Hadgy_, a
+bloodthirsty ruffian, of low birth, and eminent in cruelties, in his
+stead. This tyrant, to secure his new acquisition, inhumanly massacred
+all the male descendants of the Xeriffes. He soon became the object of
+universal detestation, and was poignarded by his Sultana on the day of
+marriage. She was of the family of the Xeriffes, and consented to
+marry him, only that she might have a better opportunity of
+sacrificing him to her revenge, for the murder of her family.
+
+After the tragical end of the descendants of the Xeriffes, these
+countries, but more especially the province of Tafilet, experienced
+all the horrors of famine and pestilence, for several years. The
+people of Tafilet considered it as a judgment from their Prophet for
+their injustice; and, to appease him, they made a pilgrimage to Mecca,
+and easily prevailed on a Xeriffe, a descendant of Mahomet, named
+_Muley Aly_, who resided in a town near Medina, to accompany them back
+to this country. In the mean time, the seasons having become more
+genial, the harvests were so abundant, that this credulous and
+superstitious people attributed the change entirely to the arrival of
+the pious Xeriffe. He was unanimously proclaimed King of Tafilet, by
+the name of _Muley Xeriffe_; and as such acknowledged by the other
+provinces, with the exception of Morocco and its environs, which were
+then in the possession of _Crom-el-Hadgy_, who having ended his career
+in the manner described, was soon followed by his son; and the ancient
+families who had ruled the empire being completely extinct, the new
+King of Tafilet, from his birth, religion, and the public election,
+was confirmed the legitimate Sovereign of the whole county.
+
+Muley Xeriffe was the founder of the dynasty of _Fileli_, from which
+the present reigning family is descended. This country, totally
+exhausted by divisions and civil wars, acquired the enjoyments of
+peace and plenty, during the reign of this prince, who resided at
+Tafilet, and caused the Governors, who were entrusted with provinces,
+to rule with equity.  He made it his whole study to render this fickle
+and turbulent people happy; the latter part of his reign was perfectly
+undisturbed, and his death was universally and justly lamented.  He
+was succeeded by his eldest son, who was proclaimed, without the
+disturbances usual on those occasions, by the name of _Muley Mahomet_.
+
+This prince, equally just and pious with his father, reigned for some
+time very peaceably; and from his exemplary conduct would have
+continued to do so to his death, to the increasing prosperity of his
+subjects, but for his brother, _Muley Arshid_, an ambitious prince,
+who, endowed with an intelligent mind, equal to the vast project he
+had in contemplation, raised a rebellion, with a view to seize on the
+sovereign power. At the head of a numerous party, in a pitched battle,
+he was however defeated, and taken prisoner, by his brother _Muley
+Mahomet_. But he recovered his liberty, by the aid of a negro slave,
+whom he rewarded by striking off his head at the very instant he had
+enabled the monster to recover his liberty.
+
+After wandering about for some time, stirring up the minds of the
+people to revolt, Muley Arshid fled to the mountains of Rif, where he
+offered his services to the Sovereign of those districts, who,
+unfortunately discovering the abilities of the stranger, confided to
+him the administration of his territories, when, after having by
+stratagem and prodigality gained the troops and the people to his
+interests, he dethroned and inhumanly butchered his royal
+benefactor. He then defeated his brother _Mahomet_, and closely
+besieged him in Tafilet, whence that good prince died of grief. To
+enumerate the bloody exploits of this prince would extend my letter to
+a volume; suffice it therefore to say, that his reign was short, and
+the remembrance of it never to be effaced. He died in 1672 of a
+fractured skull, in consequence of a fall from his horse.
+
+He was succeeded by his brother _Muley Ishmael_, who distinguished
+himself by some brave actions; and his reign would have formed a grand
+epoch in the history of this country, had he not stained it by a
+succession of tyranny and cruelties, too shocking to dwell upon. He
+died in 1727 at the advanced age of eighty-one, leaving behind him a
+numerous offspring. This prince, in order to ensure his despotic and
+arbitrary power, contrived to form a regular army of foreign soldiers,
+which he effected, partly from the negro families, then settled in
+Barbary, but principally from a vast number of blacks which he
+obtained from the coast of Guinea.
+
+_Muley-Achmet-Daiby_, one of the numerous sons of Ishmael, ascended
+the throne of Morocco, and, after reigning two years, died of a
+dropsy. His successor, _Muley Abdallah_, by far surpassed all his
+predecessors in point of vices and cruelty. His conduct was so
+flagrant, that he was deposed no less than six times, but as often
+re-elected. Amidst civil wars, divisions, and devastations, the plague
+again made its appearance, and committed the same dreadful ravages as
+in the reign of _Ishmael_. Being reinstated for the sixth time,
+_Abdallah_ took advantage of the troubles occasioned by this terrible
+disease, to excite divisions among his negro soldiers, by whose power
+alone he had suffered all his humiliations. Vast numbers of this
+warlike race fell the victims of his treachery, and he succeeded in
+reducing them so low, that they were no longer a subject of dread to
+him.  Having thus freed himself of all cause of restraint, he
+recovered his power, and, if possible, plunged deeper than ever into
+the gulf of iniquity; and each succeeding day was stained with crimes
+of the blackest hue. The only sentiments with which he inspired his
+unhappy people were those of terror and disgust. At length, worn out
+with age, he died at Fez in 1757; and was succeeded by his son _Sidi
+Mahomet_, who had begun to reform several abuses, during the latter
+part of his father's reign, when he had been entrusted with the
+government of Morocco.
+
+This prince, the father of the present Emperor, was endowed with an
+intelligent mind, and possessed nothing of the barbarian. His
+political views, and excellent regulations, soon restored the order of
+things. He directed all his care to the welfare of his people, both at
+home and abroad; he concluded, and renewed, several advantageous
+commercial treaties, with England, France, Spain, Portugal, Sweden,
+Denmark, and Holland, with all of whom he maintained a good
+understanding till 1777; when, gained over by the courts of France and
+Spain, he broke the treaty with England, and refused to supply
+Gibraltar with fresh provisions. He appointed officers of the
+strictest integrity, and of moderate and resolute characters, to the
+government of his provinces; and the whole period of his reign was
+exempt from those horrible cruelties which had almost invariably
+disgraced the sceptres of his predecessors.  He died at an advanced
+age, at _Rabat_, on the 11th of April 1790.
+
+After the old Emperor's death, the states of Barbary became convulsed
+by the civil discords, attended with great effusion of bloody
+occasioned by Sidi Mahomet's numerous sons, who severally aspired to
+the crown. The contest was for a long time doubtful and bloody; but at
+length, Muley Yezid was proclaimed Emperor, by a powerful party.  As
+the whole country was up in arms, he had to combat with many
+difficulties in establishing himself on the throne. He was no sooner
+confirmed in his power, than he exercised it with uncommon cruelty
+towards his captives.  Under the idea of striking terror into the
+minds of his subjects, by the force of example, and deterring them
+from revolting again, he inflicted the most dreadful punishment on
+those who had opposed his authority; some he caused to be hung up by
+the feet, and suffered to perish for want of sustenance; others, to be
+crucified at the gates of the city; and several high priests, and
+officers of state, he deprived of the blessing of sight.
+
+But his cruelty and inhumanity did not rest here. In the above
+proceedings he might possibly urge in palliation a regard to his
+personal safety, and the possession of a crown which he held by so
+precarious a tenure as the caprice of a multitude, who might wrest it
+from him with as little scruple as they had bestowed it, if not awed
+by some terrible example; but where shall we seek an excuse for his
+execrable barbarity to the poor Jews in his dominions, whom he ordered
+to be massacred, without distinction?  The carnage was most horrible;
+and the property of this persecuted people was indiscriminately
+plundered by their rapacious murderers. Six young Jewesses, who
+ventured to intercede for their unhappy fathers and relations, were
+burned alive.  My blood runs cold at the idea of such depravity; and I
+shrink, from the reflection that our own history will furnish us with
+annals, almost or fully as replete with horror as the one I am now
+relating.
+
+It is not all surprising that such unjustifiable cruelty should kindle
+disgust in the minds of those who were not totally divested of the
+feelings of humanity. Several of his provinces rebelled, but he
+successively reduced them to obedience; and in the last battle which
+he fought, before the city of Morocco, and gained, he was severely
+wounded.  The rebel army was surrounded, and defeated with great
+slaughter. _Muley Yezid_ was carried to the castle, and his wound
+dressed; but his treatment was so improper, that, after lingering a
+few days in the most excruciating torture, he died in 1794.
+
+The present Emperor, _Muley Solyman_, was the youngest prince, and
+lived retired in the city of Fez, assiduously occupied in studying the
+Alcoran and the laws of the empire, in order to qualify himself for
+the office of high-priest, which he was intended to fill. From this
+retreat he was called by the priests, the highest in repute as saints,
+in the neighbourhood of Fez, and a small party of the Moorish militia,
+and by them prevailed upon to come forward as a candidate for the
+crown, in opposition to his three brothers, who were waging war with
+each other, at the head of numerous forces.  In the midst of this
+anarchy and confusion, the young prince was proclaimed Emperor at Fez,
+by the name of _Muley Solyman_; and having collected a strong force,
+aided by the counsels of a number of brave and experienced officers,
+he advanced to Mequinez, which he reduced, after two successive
+pitched battles.  This place was defended by one of his brothers, who
+shortly after acknowledged him as Emperor, joined him, and brought
+over to his interests a great number of friends and partisans.  He
+served Solyman faithfully ever after, which enabled him to withstand
+the united forces of his two other brothers. At length, owing to the
+little harmony that prevailed in the armies of his competitors, he
+effected his purpose. Taking advantage of their increasing animosity,
+he advanced towards Morocco, fighting and conquering the whole way. He
+entered the capital in triumph, after a general and decisive battle;
+and he was again proclaimed Emperor.
+
+This brave young prince had now reduced Barbary entirely under his
+sway, with the exception of the kingdom of Tangiers.  Thither the two
+unfortunate princes retired, in order to make a last and desperate
+stand; but after a variety of struggles, to regain some degree of
+ascendancy, one was compelled to solicit the protection of the Dey of
+Algiers, and the other was taken prisoner, and banished to a remote
+province.
+
+From that period, the Emperor has dedicated the whole of his time and
+pursuits to the amelioration of his people's condition, by improving
+his financial resources, and appointing over his provinces, mild and
+humane Governors, whom he strictly superintends, occasionally deposing
+such as have deviated from his orders, and often inflicting upon these
+his representatives the most severe corporal punishments, previous to
+their imprisonment for life.
+
+LETTER XIII.
+
+
+_Responsibility of the Governors--Empire beautiful and
+productive--Humane Efforts of the Emperor--Blind Submission to his
+Will--Great Number of Negroes naturalized--The Moors might be truly
+formidable.--Emperor's Brother--Fez divided into two
+Parts--Magnificent Mosques--Commercial Privileges--Indignities which
+Christians undergo--Singular Supply of Water--The Imperial
+Gardens--Propensity to
+defraud--Factories--Exports--Costume--Character--Manner of
+living--Domestic Vermin._
+
+
+Fez.
+
+Having extended my last letter to an unusual length, I broke off
+rather abruptly; I shall therefore resume the subject in this.
+
+The Governors commanding large districts or provinces in Barbary, are
+answerable for the crimes and misdemeanors committed in their
+governments, if they fail to bring the offenders to public justice;
+consequently they impose very heavy fines on the community, to impel
+them to seize, and deliver to them, the murderer or robber. The sudden
+and frequent changes in the public offices keep the most powerful
+Governors in the empire in continual awe and depression; and the fear
+of being, in an instant, hurled from the height of prosperity to the
+lowest abyss of adversity, usually prevents them from amassing great
+wealth, as it is sure to pass into the Emperor's treasury on their
+disgrace; and the same cause prevents the forming of dangerous
+cabals. Yet some of them contrive, during their short-lived
+administration, to squeeze from their wretched vassals as much money
+as they can, by every fraudful artifice and despotic violence. The
+sufferers murmur, and complain; but the government appears to wink at
+the oppression for a time, and reserves its dreadful vengeance till
+the annual review, on the plains of Fez, where the collected spoils of
+the cruel peculator are seized, and himself deposed, imprisoned, and
+the whole fruit of his rapine transferred to the royal treasury.
+
+This empire is one of the most beautiful and fertile countries,
+perhaps in the world; but the despotism under which it has groaned,
+and the capricious humours of its former rulers, destroyed, and
+prevented the effects of industry; besides, the rapacity of the
+Sheiks, who are the Bashaws of the country, carried off every thing
+that labour could collect.  The present Emperor is endeavouring to
+correct these abuses, and to bring about a reformation, which I am
+sure he will never effect, owing to the great influence of the priests
+and saints in these states. Although this monarch is humane and
+impartial, and possesses nothing of the ferocious character of his
+predecessors, yet seldom a day passes without some executions.
+
+The people regard their Emperor as a god upon earth, and revere him as
+a descendant of their great prophet. All his commands, right or wrong,
+just or unjust, they consider as the decrees of Heaven. A blind
+obedience to the will of their Sovereign, is inculcated in the minds
+of their youth, more as a matter of religion than of state; and the
+Emperor may put as many of his subjects to death as he deems
+expedient, without assigning any other motive for so doing than secret
+inspiration. When at war with any Christian prince, it is considered
+as a war of religion, and the Moors who fall in the field of battle,
+are accounted martyrs.
+
+The number of negroes that have been imported into this country, and
+are now settled in these states, is astonishing. The amount is little
+less than three hundred thousand.  The Emperor's body-guard, which
+consists of eighteen thousand horsemen, is chiefly composed of
+negroes, who enjoy every privilege that despotic power can confer, and
+are ready upon all occasions to enforce the royal mandate.
+
+The great schools for the Moorish gentry are the chanceries of the
+Bashaws, where the young men learn the arts of dissimulation and
+duplicity in the greatest perfection, and become, very, early such
+great adepts in these valuable acquirements, that in my opinion they
+are fully able to cope with Monsieur Talleyrand, and the best
+politicians at the court of St. Cloud.  They are very dexterous also
+in the art of temporizing with an enemy, and deluding him by a
+thousand little expedients. It is therefore fortunate for Europe, that
+the Moors are so indolent a set of people; for the immense power this
+empire might have; were it peopled by an industrious and ambitious
+race of men, would render it the most formidable in the world.
+
+I shall now return to my own affairs, from the period at which they
+were left off in a former letter. The Emperor had requested me to
+report to him, personally, every morning, the state of his favourite
+Sultana; I therefore waited upon him regularly at five o'clock, and
+was extremely happy that I was enabled to make the report more welcome
+each day.  After this visit to His Imperial Majesty, I daily paid my
+devoirs to the blind prince, the only remaining brother of the Emperor
+now in Barbary, and who took no part in the disputes of former times;
+and I then called upon the great officers of state.
+
+Finding the Sultana in such a fair way of recovery, the Emperor
+dismissed his Governors to their respective provinces, and removed his
+court to Mequinez, his favourite summer residence, leaving me here, to
+complete the cure of the Sultana, and to attend several of his
+subjects, who stand high in his favour, in the lower town of Fez. As
+the attendance required by my patients does not occupy the whole of my
+time, I employ my leisure in observing such things as appear most
+worthy of remark.
+
+The town (or rather _towns_ of Fez, this city being divided into two
+distinct parts, the one called Upper, the other Lower Fez) is the
+capital of the kingdom of that name, and is supposed to contain about
+three hundred thousand inhabitants, besides foreigners of their own
+persuasion. There are upwards of five hundred mosques: one of them in
+particular, which was built by Edris the Second, and in which his
+remains were deposited, is magnificent beyond description, and is
+about a mile and a half in circumference. There is another very little
+inferior to this, which was erected by the Arabs of Caiwan, and
+called _Carubin_. The other mosques have been constructed since. To
+most of the mosques are annexed several colleges, religious schools,
+and hospitals for the pilgrims who visit this place, for, in point of
+holiness, it is considered as next to Mecca and Medina.
+
+The lower town of Fez was built by Edris the Second, about the end of
+the eighth century, and is taken notice of by Pliny under the name of
+_Volubilis_. According to that author, and others, this city ranked
+amongst the principal inland towns of Mauritania, and was a Roman
+colony. It is a place of considerable trade; the inhabitants are
+mostly freed men, engaged in commerce, and reputed to be very opulent
+and industrious; they have purchased a charter, by which they ensure a
+kind of independence, and are totally unmolested in their traffic; in
+short, there are great privileges attached to this town, which are not
+to be met with in any other part of Barbary.  The lower town is almost
+entirely surrounded by hills, which are highly cultivated, and abound
+with vineyards, and gardens producing most exquisite fruits.
+
+Upper Fez is situated on one of the highest of the hills which almost
+encircle the lower town, and contains the imperial palace and
+seraglio, several old palaces occupied by the sons of the Emperor, and
+the habitations of the principal officers in the household. Contiguous
+to these, is the inclosed town belonging solely to the Jews, who are
+about thirty thousand in number, having one hundred and fifty
+synagogues. On that part of the wall of the Jewish town which
+overlooks Lower Fez, are placed several heavy pieces of ordnance,
+which, in case of an insurrection in the latter, would very soon
+demolish it: as the lower town is by much the most populous and
+extensive, this precaution may not be unnecessary.  The Jewish town is
+commanded by an Alcaid, who cannot however shield its unfortunate
+inhabitants from oppression and insults.  These people are obliged to
+walk barefooted through the Moorish streets; and they suffer the
+greatest outrages without a murmur, nay, some of them have been
+actually murdered in the act of selling their goods to the Moors.  No
+Christian is allowed to appear publicly in the streets of Fez, without
+a special permission from the Emperor, and a military escort.
+
+These towns are supplied with water in a most singular manner from a
+river, called _Rasalema_, which takes its source in a valley near the
+road to Mequinez. It issues from a rock, about eight or ten feet above
+the ground, in a stream, that, from the form of the valley through
+which it runs, appears a continued waterfall. It is conveyed into the
+Emperor's garden by means of a large wheel, about twenty-five feet in
+diameter, round which, at regular distances, are small buckets, which,
+as the wheel goes round, are alternately filled, and emptied into a
+reservoir at the top of the wall of the garden. From the reservoir the
+water is also conveyed to the upper and lower towns by aqueducts.
+
+On the outside of one of the western gates of Upper Fez are the
+gardens of the Emperor, surrounded by a good stone wall, within which
+are a number of spacious walks, shaded by rows of tall trees, on each
+side, and intersected by parterres and grass-plots, on which are
+elegant pavilions, some in a pyramidical, others in a conical form,
+where the Emperor frequently retires, to take his repose, or to amuse
+himself with his courtiers.  These pavilions are between thirty and
+forty feet in height, covered on the outside with varnished tiles of
+different colours, and contain three and sometimes four neat
+apartments, furnished in the most simple style imaginable, having in
+general nothing more than a carpet, several couches, a few
+arm-chairs, a table, a clock, and a tea-equipage of china. The
+cornices round the walls of these apartments are embellished with
+passages from the Koran, and other Arabic sentences, carved in
+cedar-wood.
+
+The propensity to cheating, so prevalent in all Barbary, is no where
+so notorious as in the lower town of Fez; and the Europeans who trade
+with the Moorish merchants here must employ the same means as
+themselves, or submit to be most flagitiously imposed upon.
+
+I have visited several manufactories of carpets, mats, silk, linen,
+and leather, of which the merchants export great quantities.  I have
+also seen some beautifully embroidered shawls, scarfs, and
+sword-knots, of the manufacture of this country. Their exports besides
+are, elephants' teeth, ostrich feathers, copper, tin, wool, hides,
+honey, wax, dates, raisins, olives, almonds, gum-arabic, and
+sandrach. They carry on a considerable trade, by caravans, to Mecca
+and Medina, the inland regions of Africa, and to the farthermost parts
+of the coast of Guinea; from which last place they bring gold-dust,
+and a prodigious number of negroes, some of whom are destined to serve
+in the Emperor's armies; the rest are slaves in the Moorish houses and
+fields.
+
+The dress of the Moors is composed of a linen shirt, over which they
+fasten a cloth or silk vestment with a sash, loose trowsers reaching
+to the knee, a white serge cloak, or capote, and yellow slippers:
+their arms and legs are quite bare. The principal people are
+distinguished by the fineness of their turbans, their linen shirts,
+and cloth or silk garments, which are richly embroidered with gold;
+when they go abroad, they cover this dress with an alhaik, differing
+in quality according to the circumstances of the wearer; and which
+they fold round them like a large blanket. They never move their
+turbans, but pull off their slippers, when they attend religious
+duties, or their Sovereign, or visit their relatives, friends,
+priests, or civil and military officers.
+
+The Moorish gentry are clean in their persons, in their manners
+tolerably genteel and complaisant, far from being loquacious, though
+not prone to reflection. They possess an unbounded degree of duplicity
+and flattery; are perfectly strangers to the notions of truth and
+honour, promising a thing one day which they utterly deny the
+next. They are less irascible than many other nations; but when
+grossly injured, seek revenge in assassination.  They are more
+vindictive than brave, more superstitious than devout, firmly attached
+to their ancient customs, and wholly averse to every kind of
+innovation.
+
+The Moors, in general, are extremely fond of fruit and vegetables,
+which contribute very much to their contentment. The peasants eat meat
+only on certain great days.  They are excessively dirty in their
+cooking, and the style of their dishes is not at all adapted to the
+taste of an Englishman. Their soups are made most intolerably hot with
+spices; and their favourite dish is _cous-ca-sou_, which appears to me
+to be prepared in the following manner: The meat and vegetables are
+laid alternately in a large bowl, and seasoned; then the whole is
+covered with fine wheaten flour, made into small grains, very like the
+Italian pastes. It is raised into the form of a pyramid, and I should
+imagine stewed, or rather steamed, as the outside remains perfectly
+white, which it would not were it baked. The whole of the inside, when
+brought to table, is mingled almost into one mass; the meat separating
+from the bones, without the smallest difficulty: it does not contain
+any gravy, and the Moors eat it by handsfull.
+
+I generally live upon mutton and veal, both of which are very good:
+the bread and butter are excellent, but the latter will not keep more
+than twenty-four hours without becoming rancid. My greatest annoyance
+here is the infinite number of bugs and fleas, which infest me by day
+and night most intolerably.
+
+LETTER XIV.
+
+
+_Fez--Debility of the Moors--Mosques--Antiquities, Roman,
+Carthaginian, and Saracen--Storks held in great Veneration--Baths--
+Bazars--Inhabitants--Residence--Menagerie--Marvellous Preservation of
+a Jew--Lions--Tigers--Leopards--Hyenas._
+
+
+_Fez_, ----.
+
+Considering the mildness of the climate, the uncommon fertility of the
+soil, the number of mineral waters, the fragrancy and salubrity of the
+air, one would imagine that the frame and constitution of a Moor
+cannot but be beautiful, strong, and healthy; yet, though the most
+handsome people of both sexes are to be met with in this great city,
+the number of miserable objects, the wretched victims of excessive
+early passions, is in a much larger proportion: it is shocking beyond
+description to meet them in every corner of the streets. I have
+visited a great many of these poor creatures, and found them in such a
+state, that decency obliges me to draw a veil over it.
+
+The mosques of this town, which I have before mentioned as very
+numerous, are square buildings, and generally of stone; before the
+principal gate there is a court paved with white marble, with piazzas
+round, the roofs of which are supported by marble columns.  In niches
+within these piazzas, the Moors perform their ablutions before they
+enter the mosques. Attached to each mosque is a tower, with three
+small open galleries, one above another, whence the people are called
+to prayer, not by a bell, but by an officer appointed for that
+duty. These towers, as well as the mosques, are covered with lead, and
+adorned with gilding, and tiles of variegated colours. No woman is
+allowed to enter the Moorish places of worship.
+
+Several of the aqueducts, which were constructed by the Carthaginians
+and Romans, are still to be seen; and the ruins of amphitheatres, and
+other public buildings, are found in the town and neighbourhood of
+Fez: likewise many Saracen monuments of the most stupendous
+magnificence, which were erected under the Caliphs of Bagdad. The
+mosques and ruins are frequented by a great number of storks, which
+are very tame, and are regarded by the Moors as a kind of inferior
+saints.
+
+The baths here are wonderfully well constructed for the purpose. Some
+of them are square buildings, but the greater part are circular, paved
+with black or white polished marble, and containing three rooms: the
+first for undressing and dressing, the second for the water, and in
+the third is the bath.  Their manner of bathing is very curious: the
+attendant rubs the person with great force, then pulls and stretches
+the limbs, as if he meant to dislocate every joint. This exercise to
+these indolent people is very conducive to health.
+
+The bazars in which the tradesmen have their shops, are very
+extensive. These shops are filled with all kinds of merchandise. In
+the centre of the town is a rectangular building, with colonnades,
+where the principal merchants attend daily to transact business.
+
+The inhabitants of Fez are of a large muscular stature, fair
+complexion, with black beards and eyes; extremely amorous and jealous
+of their women, whom they keep strictly guarded. Their houses consist
+of four wings, forming a court in the centre, round which is an
+arcade, or piazza, with one spacious apartment on each side. The court
+is paved with square pieces of marble, and has a basin of the same in
+the centre, with a fountain. They keep their houses remarkably clean
+and neat; but all the streets of this immense town are narrow, very
+badly paved with large irregular stones, and most shockingly
+dirty. The tops of their houses, like those of Tetuan, and other towns
+in Barbary, are flat, for the purpose of recreation.
+
+Among the remnants of several amphitheatres, there is one very nearly
+entire, which is kept in constant repair at the expense of the
+Emperor, and appropriated as a menagerie for lions, tigers, and
+leopards. As I was contemplating it the other day, I felt at a loss to
+account for this being kept in repair, while the others were suffered
+to moulder into dust, unheeded, excepting a very few, and those but
+partially prevented from sharing the general wreck. I had stood some
+time, thus employed, when I was suddenly interrupted in my
+meditations, by the sound of voices close behind me; on turning I
+perceived two Jews, one of whom I knew very well, from having given
+advice to some part of his family. I immediately inquired how it
+happened that the building before us was so carefully preserved from
+going to ruin, as happened to most of the others. He informed me, that
+it was a kind of menagerie for wild beasts. "It was the same in the
+time of the late Emperor," continued he; "and a very curious incident
+befell one of my brethren in that place." As the narrative was not
+merely very curious, but really wonderful, I cannot forbear sending
+you the substance of it; as to give it you in the very circuitous way
+it came to me, would be rather a tax upon your patience, particularly,
+as you may not be so destitute of resources of amusement, as, I
+confess, I was at that moment.
+
+It appears, that Muley Yezid, the late Emperor, had a great and
+invincible antipathy to the Jews (indeed it was but too evident in the
+horrible transaction I mentioned in a former letter). An unfortunate
+Israelite, having incurred the displeasure of that prince, was
+condemned to be devoured by a ferocious lion, which had been purposely
+left without food for twenty-four hours: when the animal was raging
+with hunger, the poor Jew had a rope fastened round his waist, and in
+the presence of a great concourse of people was let down into the den;
+his supplications for mercy, and screams of terror, availing him
+nothing. The man gave himself up for lost, expecting every moment to
+be torn in pieces by the almost famished beast, who was roaring most
+hideously; he threw himself on the ground in an agony of mind, much
+better conceived than described. While in this attitude, the animal
+approached him, ceased roaring, smelt him two or three times, then
+walked majestically round him, and gave him now and then a gentle
+whisk with his tail, which seemed to signify that he might rise, as he
+would not hurt him; finding the man still continue motionless with
+fear, he retreated a few paces, and laid himself down like a
+dog. After a short time had elapsed, the Jew, recovering from his
+insensibility, and perceiving himself unmolested, ventured to raise
+himself up, and observing the noble animal couched, and no symptom of
+rage or anger in his countenance, he felt animated with confidence. In
+short, they became quite friendly, the lion suffering himself to be
+caressed by the Jew with the utmost tameness. It ended with the man
+being drawn up again unhurt, to the great astonishment of the
+spectators. A heifer was afterwards let down, and instantly devoured.
+You may be sure this story was too great a triumph on the part of the
+Israelites, to pass without a number of annotations and reflections
+from the narrator, all tending to prove the victory of their nation
+over the heathens.  For my part, I could not help thinking that there
+was too much of the miraculous in it. However, I have often heard it
+asserted that the lion will never touch a man who is either dead, or
+counterfeits death; indeed here they tell me, that, unless pressed by
+hunger or rage, it never molests a man; and they assure me even that
+upon no account will these animals injure a woman, but, on the
+contrary, will protect her, when they meet her at a
+watering-place. This country abounds with lions, tigers, leopards, and
+hyenas, which sometimes make nocturnal visits to the villages, and
+spread desolation among the sheep and cattle.
+
+LETTER XV.
+
+_Sudden Departure from Fez--Arrive at Mequinez--Attend the
+Emperor--Melancholy Catastrophe--Expedition against wild
+Beasts--Extensive Palaces--Seraglio--Visit a Haram--Founders of the
+City--A fortified Town--Inhabitants--Jewish Town--Rich Attire of the
+higher Orders--Numerous Market-places--Furniture--Saints'
+Houses--Imperial Field Sports--Pack of Greyhounds--Abundance of Game._
+
+
+Mequinez.
+
+No doubt, my dear D----, you will be very much surprised to observe my
+letter dated from this place. I assure you I had not the most distant
+idea, when I wrote last, of removing so suddenly from Fez. On the
+evening of the same day that I dispatched my letter to you, as I was
+preparing for rest, an express arrived from the Emperor, begging me to
+repair hither without delay. Concluding that nothing less than life or
+death depended on my speedy arrival, I accordingly renounced the
+pleasures of the drowsy god for a very uneasy seat on the back of a
+mule, and at midnight set off for this place, leaving my baggage and
+attendants to follow in the morning.  I rode very fast all night, and
+arrived here about nine o'clock the next day. When I dismounted, I was
+so extremely stiff, that it was with the utmost difficulty I could
+stand; I was most dreadfully fatigued, and stood in very great need of
+repose; but waving all selfish considerations, I thought only of being
+serviceable, and therefore lost no time in waiting on the Emperor. He
+received me in the kindest and most flattering manner, and expressed
+great pleasure at seeing me; but I found my patient's case not so very
+urgent as I had imagined; a few hours delay would not have endangered
+the life of any human being, and it would have saved _one_, some
+aching bones. However, after dispatching the case in point as
+expeditiously as possible, I soon made amends for my deprivation, by
+indulging in a little longer repose than usual, and on awaking I felt
+myself quite refreshed, and rather pleased than otherwise at finding
+myself thus suddenly at Mequinez; for having before passed the road
+more leisurely, and observed every thing worthy of remark, I did not
+so much regret that my journey had been performed during the night.
+
+I have been four days here, and yesterday I was called upon to attend
+the captain of a band of huntsmen, who were that morning returned from
+an expedition, in which they lost three of their companions, and only
+succeeded in saving their chief, and bringing him to this place, by
+little short of a miracle.  He has been lacerated in a most dreadful
+manner; his head is nearly scalped, and part of the integuments of his
+arms and back inverted.  His condition is certainly dangerous; but, as
+he is a young and healthy subject, I do not despair of effecting his
+recovery.
+
+I have learned the following particulars of this melancholy
+catastrophe.  About fifty resolute young men marched hence, all armed
+and well stocked with ammunition and provisions, and accompanied by a
+mountaineer, who acted as guide. Their primary object was to destroy
+six young lions, that had committed terrible devastation in one of
+their villages; compelled the inhabitants to flee precipitately; and
+themselves remained sole masters of the _citadel_. After a march of
+three days, they arrived at the scene of action, and succeeded in
+destroying those lions; but hearing that there were more in the
+neighbourhood, they prepared to encounter them also. By order of this
+young man, who was chief of the company, they separated in five
+divisions, and repaired to different posts on the borders of the
+forest, to wait the arrival of the lions. They had not remained long,
+ere the terrific roar of these animals commenced, the sound approached
+nearer and nearer to their place of concealment, and one of the lions
+passed close to a party, and received the fire of their pieces; the
+animal darted upon them in return, before they could charge again, and
+three unfortunate men fell victims to his rage.  The creature finding
+he had more enemies to contend with, and his wounds beginning to
+smart, retreated to a cover, where he sat licking them, and meditating
+another attack.  He was on the point of springing on the captain, who
+had approached nearer to him than the rest, when the young man
+discharged his musket, the contents of which entered, and dislocated,
+the lower jaw of the enraged animal.  The instant the youth had fired,
+he retreated with the utmost precipitation towards his companions, but
+his foot unfortunately slipping, he fell prostrate between two stones:
+in which position the lion assailed him; and being unable to tear him
+in pieces with his teeth, in consequence of the wound in his jaw, he
+made use of his tremendous paws, and would undoubtedly have destroyed
+him, but for the timely assistance of his comrades.  The animal was so
+intent on the destruction of his enemy, that he received a close fire
+from two muskets, the muzzles of which nearly touched him.  He no
+sooner found himself mortally wounded, than, raising the almost
+lifeless man in both paws, he dashed him on the ground, and fell dead
+by his side.
+
+The man received a very severe contusion on his bead, which deprived
+him of sense for some time, and is what I dread the most in his
+case. His wounds were dressed by his companions in the best manner
+they could, and he was brought hither. The Emperor has very liberally
+rewarded him and his party, and made a handsome provision for the
+widows and children of those poor fellows who fell in the
+expedition. I sincerely hope this man may recover to enjoy the
+munificence of his Sovereign.
+
+I have most excellent quarters here, contiguous to one of the palaces,
+and am allowed to walk or ride in the Imperial gardens, which are very
+extensive. The Emperor's palaces here, are much upon the same plan,
+with those at Fez, but larger. One of them is about three miles in
+circumference. All the apartments are on the ground floor, and are
+large long rooms, about twenty feet in height, receiving air from two
+folding doors which open into a square court, with a portico round,
+embellished with colonnades.  The walls of the rooms are faced with
+glazed tiles, and the floors paved with the same, which gives an air
+of coolness and neatness, so desirable in this warm climate.
+
+The seraglio of the Emperor, and indeed the harams of men of less
+rank, are sacred.  No strangers are admitted, and it is profanation in
+a man to enter; but as a _tweeb_, I am privileged, and enjoy a
+liberty, never granted before.  The day after my arrival, His
+Excellency the _Sheik_ called upon me, and requested me to go home
+with him.  He informed me that he had been assured, in the most
+positive manner, by all the doctors, and female attendants, that his
+wife had a dead child in her, and that nothing less than a miracle of
+their great Prophet could save her.  The poor man was very much
+agitated while giving me this account. I find she is his favourite
+wife, and no wonder, for she is a very lovely woman.  Upon
+examination, I found that what they imagined to be a dead child, is a
+protuberant hardness in the region of the liver, extending nearly all
+over the abdomen.  The tumefaction was considered as a case of
+pregnancy; and she having considerably passed her time, the child was
+thought to be dead within her. I have begun a course of medicine,
+which I flatter myself will entirely eradicate the disorder.
+
+My stay was so very short, when I was here before, that I could give
+you no account of the town, &c.  The city of Mequinez is in the
+kingdom of Fez, and thirty miles from the capital of that name.  The
+dynasty of _Mequinez_ were the founders of this town, which they
+erected upon the ruins of the old one.  Stephanus takes notice of it,
+by the name of _Gilda_, and says, that it was a place of great note.
+Marmol also asserts, that the present Mequinez answers in every
+respect to the ancient _Gilda_.  It was considerably enlarged by Muley
+Ishmael, who (as well as several other Moorish princes, successively)
+defended himself in this place, against the attacks of the
+mountaineers.  Several lines of circumvallation and intrenchments are
+still to be seen.
+
+It is surrounded with walls, and fortified by two bastions; but has no
+artillery. It contains about one hundred thousand inhabitants;
+twenty-five thousand of whom are Jews, who have a town of their own,
+irregularly fortified, and guarded by a strong force, under the
+direction of an Alcaid, who is styled the Governor of the Jews.
+
+There is not the smallest difference, in the construction of these
+houses, from those of Fez; though the inhabitants differ very
+materially.  The men are of a short, thick, muscular make, and swarthy
+complexion, with long black beards and black eyes. The women are
+excessively handsome, and remarkably fair; nor are they devoid of
+neatness and elegance in their dress. They improve the beauty of their
+eyes with paint.
+
+The Moorish inhabitants of this city are all militia-men, entirely at
+the disposal of the Emperor. They are excellent horsemen, expert at
+the sword and lance; and with fire-arms most admirable marksmen. They
+are generally considered barbarous and ferocious.
+
+The people of distinction go about richly attired, having much gold
+and silver on their clothes. They take great pains in cleaning their
+teeth, combing their long beards, and keeping their nails pared
+extremely close.
+
+The streets of this town are not paved; and the soil being clay, they
+must be very disagreeable in winter; for, after a heavy shower of
+rain, they are almost impassable from the accumulation of mud in every
+quarter. The market-places, with which this place abounds, are long,
+narrow, arched or covered streets, with small shops on each side,
+superintended by a Cadi, and an officer under him, for the purpose of
+collecting the duties on the sale of goods, &c. The chief furniture of
+the houses consists of beautiful carpets, cushions, and mattresses,
+upon which they sit and lie.
+
+In and about the neighbourhood of this place are several saints'
+houses, near which no Christian, nor Jew, is allowed to pass. The most
+remarkable is the _hospitium_ of Sidi-el-Marti.
+
+The Emperor's favourite diversions, while here, are shooting and
+hunting, in both of which I am told he excels. He keeps a large pack
+of greyhounds, as fine as any I have seen in England. His
+pleasure-grounds, and park, in the vicinity of this town, abound in
+all kinds of game, hares, rabbits, and deer, and in wild boars and
+foxes.
+
+LETTER XVI.
+
+_Courtship_--_Marriage_--_Funerals_--_Sabbath_.
+
+
+Mequinez.
+
+I shall now give you an account of the manner in which the marriages
+are invariably negotiated and conducted in this country. A female, the
+confidential friend of the suitor, is dispatched to observe and report
+the beauty and accomplishments of the young lady; and when those are
+found to be perfectly adapted to the gentleman's taste, she is further
+delegated to sound his eulogium, and by every means, such as
+presenting her with valuable jewels, &c. to ingratiate him in the good
+opinion of the fair one. When this curious courtship ends, by terms
+being agreed upon, the destined bridegroom pays down a sum of money to
+the bride, a license is taken out from the Cadi, and the parties are
+married. I send you a description of a marriage-ceremony, at which I
+was present the other day.
+
+The bridegroom (who is one of the officers of the household) came out
+of his house, attended by a vast number of his friends, and mounted
+one of the best horses belonging to the Emperor, most curiously and
+richly caparisoned.  He carried his sword unsheathed, and was preceded
+by a splendid standard, and a band of music; he was followed by a kind
+of palanquin, supported on the shoulders of four stout black slaves, a
+detachment of cavalry firing off their pieces every minute, and a
+procession of relatives and friends, the whole moving with great mirth
+and jollity,
+
+Before they reached the house of the bride, the cavalcade halted, and
+the bridegroom dismounted, assisted by his negro slaves, and knocked
+loudly at the door three times. The lady was brought out in a covered
+chair, attended by four women, completely muffled up.  The whole party
+of the bridegroom turned their backs, and she was smuggled into the
+palanquin: they then returned in the same style to the house of her
+lord, where, before she was allowed to enter, he placed himself at the
+entrance, and extending his right arm across the door-way, she passed
+under, as an indication of her voluntary and unconditional submission
+to his will and pleasure.
+
+After this ceremony, the bridegroom was obliged to retire to the house
+of his nearest relation, where he continued three days and nights,
+feasting, and receiving presents from all his male friends, while the
+bride was paid the same compliments by her female acquaintance.  At
+the expiration of the appointed time, the gentleman returned to his
+own house.
+
+The Moors are not allowed by their law more than four wives, but they
+may have as many concubines as they can maintain; accordingly, the
+wealthy Moors, besides their wives, keep a kind of seraglio of women
+of all colours.
+
+From their marriages, I am insensibly led to the subject of the burial
+of their dead. Not that any idea strikes me of an analogy between the
+situations of a married person, and one consigned to the "_narrow
+house_," as Ossian poetically styles the grave; but from a certain
+succession of thought, for which one is at a loss to account. In the
+burial of their dead, they are decent and pious, without pomp or
+show. The corpse is attended by the relations and friends, chanting
+passages from the Koran, to the mosque, where it is washed, and it is
+afterwards interred in a place at some distance from the town, the
+Iman, or priest, pronouncing an oration, containing the eulogy of the
+deceased. The male relations express their regard by alms and prayers,
+the women by ornamenting the tomb with flowers and green leaves. Their
+term of mourning is the same as ours, twelve months, during which
+period the widows divest themselves of every ornament, and appear
+habited in the coarsest attire.  Their burial-grounds are inclosed by
+cypress and other dark lofty trees, the lower parts of which are
+interwoven with odoriferous shrubs and creeping plants, forming an
+almost impenetrable hedge. Some of their tombs are very curious,
+though they exhibit specimens of the rudest architecture. There are
+also several saints' houses in their burying-places, which render
+them doubly sacred; and no Christian or Jew is suffered to enter, on
+pain of death.
+
+Friday being their Sabbath, the day is kept perfectly holy; all the
+Moors are employed in prayer, reading the Koran, or visiting the tombs
+of their departed friends.
+
+Curiosity prompted me to go and see an assemblage of fanatics, at a
+celebrated saint's house, in the neighbourhood of this town.  They
+were to perform many wonderful things, such as tearing a live sheep in
+pieces, and devouring the flesh, fighting with wild beasts, and
+several other barbarous exhibitions. These people, called in Barbary
+_Free Masons_, are nothing more than a set of canting, roaring
+companions, surcharged with wine and other liquors, and assembled in
+this holy place, for the sole purpose of giving free vent to their
+brutal passions. This society is peculiar to itself, having no
+connexion with our ancient or modern Free Masons. I have however
+obtained a free access to their saints' houses and secret meetings,
+with permission to go any where unmolested; but I always take the
+precaution to go well armed, and escorted by the Emperor's guards, as
+nothing can exceed the barbarous acts of this fanatic set of people.
+
+I am extremely happy to say, that my most sanguine expectations with
+regard to the poor man, whose accident I mentioned in my last, are
+realized; every unfavourable symptom has vanished, and I can safely
+rely on his perfect recovery. The complaint of my female patient has
+also given way to a proper course of medicine, and the Governor is one
+of the happiest of men. When I announced the pleasing intelligence of
+her disease being removed, he embraced me with such ecstacy that I
+almost dreaded suffocation; in short, he has spared nothing that can
+evince his gratitude and satisfaction, for what he terms the
+inestimable benefit I have conferred upon him.
+
+The country round this city is inexpressibly rich and beautiful, being
+laid put for several miles in gardens, abounding in flowers and
+fruit-trees; among the latter the vine sands pre-eminent, yielding
+most delicious grapes.  The air here, as in the other parts of
+Barbary, is very pure and salubrious.
+
+LETTER XVII.
+
+_Depart for Morocco--Roads dreadfully infested, by Robbers--A Tribe of
+aboriginal Freebooters--Description of Morocco--Filth of the common
+People--Tobacco disallowed--Justice of the Emperor_.
+
+
+Mequinez
+
+Since I wrote last, I have taken a trip to Morocco and back again. As
+I had a great deal of leisure time, and every thing here having lost
+the attraction of novelty, I determined to go further up the interior
+of the country; and accordingly applied to the Emperor for permission
+to visit Morocco, which he granted, but with the injunction that I
+should return as quickly as possible.
+
+I set off, accompanied by my usual guard, which I assure you I never
+found so necessary as on this journey; for the rapacious spirit of the
+peasantry exposed us continually to the danger of being plundered, we
+were therefore obliged to keep watch alternately, to prevent our
+property, perhaps our lives, becoming a prey to these wretches. The
+neighbourhood of Morocco is dreadfully infested by robbers and
+assassins.
+
+The inhabitants of the empire of Morocco, that are not in a military
+capacity, or otherwise immediately in the service of the Emperor, are
+miserably poor; and the natural indolence of their disposition
+preventing them from making any laudable exertions towards gaining a
+livelihood, they have recourse to every means of fraud and
+violence. It is astonishing how frequently assassinations and
+robberies are committed in this empire, notwithstanding the ruffians,
+when detected, are punished in the most exemplary manner, by the right
+hand and left foot being cut off, and the head afterwards being
+severed from the body.  The relations of the murderer are all fined
+very heavily, and the judgment often extends to the whole village,
+near which the crime had been perpetrated; yet seldom a day passes but
+some daring robbery is committed, accompanied by the most wanton and
+savage cruelty; the unhappy victim of the plunderer being frequently
+left in the public roads in a most shocking state of mutilation.
+
+Another ostensible cause of the dereliction of the peasantry from the
+laws of humanity, may be the extreme oppression under which they
+groan; as, on account of their former propensity to rebellion, they
+are now ruled with a rod of iron, which in all probability has
+rendered them callous, and deaf to the voice of nature. But,
+independently of these occasional depredations, there is a band of
+vagrants, who are actuated by no other motives, than what their own
+black hearts suggest.  They inhabit caves in the sides of enormous
+rocky precipices, and go entirely naked: their principal food is the
+flesh of wild beasts. This tribe of freebooters appears to be quite a
+distinct set of people; they seem to have an invincible aversion to
+the Mahometan religion, and worship the _sun_ and _fire_; they speak a
+different language from the rest of the inhabitants, a mixture of
+African and the _old_ Arabic; all which circumstances favour their own
+report of themselves, which is, that they are the genuine descendants
+of the original inhabitants. They look down upon the more civilized
+Moors with contempt, and consider them as the real usurpers of their
+country, and the plunderers of their property.  They subsist chiefly
+by rapine, and frequently throw a whole village into consternation by
+their nocturnal visits; yet their cunning and dexterity are so great,
+that they almost constantly elude the vigilance of justice: indeed,
+they are never forced from their places of retreat (which are
+inaccessible to all but themselves), but when taken, it is either in
+the act of robbing, or when they venture to the markets or fairs; and
+then the capture is not effected without a strong body of the
+military.
+
+I was much disappointed on my arrival at Morocco with the appearance
+of the place; for, instead of finding it, as I expected, superior to
+Fez and Mequinez, I found it a large ruinous town, almost without
+inhabitants.  It contains, indeed, a great many mosques, caravanseras,
+public baths, marketplaces or squares, and palaces of the Xeriffes,
+but all in almost deplorable state of ruin. Not many years since, this
+city was the Imperial residence, and contained six hundred and fifty
+thousand inhabitants; but the late civil wars, and the plague, which
+raged with such violence, in the beginning of the present Emperor's
+reign, nearly depopulated it. In consequence of the latter melancholy
+event, the court was removed to Fez and Mequinez.  To this account we
+may place the present desolate appearance of Morocco. The Imperial
+palace is, however, kept in repair, as the Emperor goes to Morocco
+annually to spend the fast-days, which are during the months of
+October and November; scarcely one fourth of the other palaces and
+houses are inhabited; but though this city now exhibits evident
+symptoms of rapid decay, we may still form a just idea of its former
+grandeur and magnificence.
+
+The plain of Morocco is bounded by that long ridge of mountains called
+_Atlas_, which screen the town from the scorching heat of the easterly
+winds, while the snow, with which their summits are covered, renders
+the climate more temperate than in other parts of
+Barbary. Notwithstanding the salubrity of the climate of Morocco, a
+residence there is rendered miserable, by the multitudes of scorpions,
+serpents, gnats, and bugs, which infest the town and its
+neighbourhood.
+
+His Imperial Majesty holds a court of justice here, previous to the
+commencement of the holidays, and also issues orders for a general
+ablution by men, women, and children, of every class: this, no doubt,
+is very necessary, as the common people seldom change their linen, and
+the greater part of them are covered with vermin. During the fast they
+dare not touch any food while the sun is up, and when at night they
+are allowed to break their fast, they absolutely make perfect beasts
+of themselves. Smoking, or chewing tobacco, and taking snuff, are
+strictly prohibited, by an edict from the Emperor: the vender is
+punished with the bastinado, and a confiscation of all his goods and
+cattle, and the buyer with six years imprisonment.
+
+Owing to the intense heat of the weather lately, there is a great
+scarcity of water: so that we were obliged to carry it up in bags made
+of goat-skin, to supply us on the road; and coming back we took the
+same precaution.
+
+When at Morocco, I was extremely anxious to visit _Mogedor_, a
+sea-port town, and the island of _Erythia_, now also called Mogedor,
+which island contains a castle of considerable strength, defended by a
+strong garrison, stationed there chiefly, as I have been told, to
+protect the gold-mines in the neighbourhood; but the distance was very
+great, and my time so limited, that I could not spare a fortnight,
+which it would at least have required to get there and back again. I
+have been returned here two days, and, as I observed before, not so
+much gratified as I expected.
+
+As I passed one of the courts of the palace yesterday, a fellow was
+receiving punishment for a robbery. The right hand and foot were
+severed at the articulation, by a single blow of a large axe; the
+stumps were immediately immersed in a vessel of boiling pitch; and in
+this miserable condition he was turned about his business. I once
+attended a man who had suffered these amputations; he soon recovered,
+and, to my great surprise, instead of sorrowing for his loss, he
+skipped about as nimbly as possible, and afterwards enlisted in the
+police. After the fellow was turned away yesterday, a peasant, who had
+walked nearly two hundred miles, presented himself before the Emperor,
+to complain of the Governor of his province, for not having done him
+justice in assisting him to recover a debt of about six shillings. The
+Emperor listened to his grievance, issued an order to enforce the
+payment of the debt, and gave the poor man a sum of money to enable
+him to return home.
+
+LETTER XVIII.
+
+_Moorish Character--Form of Devotion--Meals--Revenue--Poll-tax on the
+Jews--Royal Carriages--Ostrich-riding--Public Schools--Watch-dogs._
+
+
+Mequinez.
+
+The established religion of the Moors is Mahometan. Formerly, as well
+as at present, women were considered by the Moors as the mere objects
+of sensuality, and only esteemed while in full bloom. At the age of
+thirty, or at most forty, they were looked upon as an inferior order
+of beings, and doomed to the most abject and insupportable slavery:
+indeed, the latter circumstance still exists, though considerably
+mitigated. No wonder then that the doctrine of Mahomet should be
+cordially embraced by a people with whose inclinations it so exactly
+coincided. But that part only was adopted, which indulged them in the
+gratification of their wishes; that which imposed restraint was
+renounced, or only nominally acceded to. And fortunate it certainly is
+for the security of the neighbouring countries that they did so; as,
+when formerly they were inured from infancy to all the hardships of a
+warlike life, and possessed much skill in war, they were undoubtedly
+very formidable; but since their conversion to Mahometanism, they have
+gradually become inactive, and their natural passion for war and
+conquest has changed to absolute effeminacy.  The illiterate system of
+the Moors has also completely shut the door against the arts and
+sciences, and all knowledge of the value of a free and secure
+commerce. Yet, notwithstanding this people are no longer either in
+appearance or reality those fierce barbarians they once were, nor can
+their actions in point of valour bear any comparison with those of
+their ancestors, like them they retain a most inveterate antipathy to
+all Christians; and a propensity towards cruelty, revenge, rapine, and
+murder, still continues to form one of the most prominent features of
+their character.  However, under the comparatively mild government of
+the present Emperor, their behaviour towards Christians has visibly
+undergone a favourable change, which would almost persuade some to
+indulge a hope of the entire annihilation of their aversion; but I am
+sorry to add, that I am not so sanguine, as from accurate observation
+I have been led to conclude, that nothing but an immense length of
+time can overcome their habitual prejudices and constitutional
+inclinations.
+
+The male inhabitants of these states are obliged to attend their
+places of public worship four times in the course of twenty-four
+hours. The first prayer begins about half an hour before sun-rising,
+and is so regulated that they may, just as the sun rises, finish eight
+adorations. They pray again at noon, at sun-set, and at midnight: they
+are very fervent in their devotions, and always turn their faces
+towards the east: they fast three times in a year; the first time
+thirty days, the next nine, and the last seven: during these fasts
+they abstain from beans, garlic, and some other pulse and
+vegetables. They call the Almighty, _God of Gods_, and _Lord of
+Lords_; and they all believe that the souls of wicked men will be
+punished till a certain period, when they will be received to mercy.
+
+In the morning, after prayer, they drink strong tea, which they prefer
+to coffee. At eleven o'clock they, go to dinner, which consists of
+fruits, sweetmeats, and their favourite _cous-ca-sou_, piled up in a
+large wooden bowl.  Their chief meal is after their return from
+evening prayer. They eat cakes made of fine wheaten flour; and as they
+consider it a crime to cut bread or meat of any kind after it is
+dressed, these cakes are made so thin that they may be easily broken
+with the hands; and their meat, which is generally mutton or fowls, is
+so prepared that they can without difficulty separate it from the
+bones with their fingers. They sit cross-legged upon cushions, and
+devour their food very greedily and without the least
+ceremony. Although sobriety is strictly enjoined by the Mahometan law,
+yet the Moorish inhabitants of the principal towns in Barbary make
+free with most excellent wines and spirits of their own manufacture.
+
+The revenues of the Emperor have of late augmented prodigiously. He
+receives a tenth part of all the property of his Mahometan subjects;
+and he compels every Jew residing in his dominions to pay a poll-tax
+of six crowns annually. The number of Israelites subject to the
+Emperor of Morocco exceeds one hundred thousand. They are strictly
+guarded, and cruelly oppressed, and are not permitted to quit the
+states without a special leave from the Emperor, to obtain which they
+are obliged to pay down a large sum of money.
+
+The authority of the Emperor is unlimited, as is that of his
+Governors, who possess a power of life and death. No rank nor
+condition of Moors is exempt from taxation, excepting the immediate
+princes of the blood, and the _Xeriffes_, which are the only degrees
+of nobility the Moors have. The Xeriffes are the descendants of their
+monarchs, and their titles are hereditary: but the title of _Sheik_ is
+temporary; so that the respect paid to the Sheiks on account of their
+high situations expires with them.
+
+Coaches, carriages, and palanquins are used only by the Emperor. I
+have seen some, both here and at Fez, which are really elegant; they
+are for the use of his ladies when they go to spend the day in any of
+the Imperial gardens. The Emperor has several very handsome chariots,
+in one of which he usually rides, drawn by six mules. The Moors ride
+on horseback, attended by a number of slaves or soldiers, according to
+their rank and wealth.
+
+The princes of the blood and Xeriffes are not allowed to interfere in
+any political or public business, and are never consulted in state
+affairs. They are generally provided for, with sinecure places to
+support their rank, but many of these are too small to enable them to
+do so. The several Governors of provinces have each a large tract of
+land; and the tax collected from the venders and buyers in the weekly
+markets in their districts is also appropriated by them to defray the
+charges of their retinue and troops. From the vast crown lands in this
+country, the Emperor obtains sufficient for the expenses of the court,
+household, and great officers of state; from which circumstance, and
+what I have before said of his revenues, it is evident that his
+coffers must be most abundantly supplied, and his annual saving in
+ordinary cases very great. A detachment of troops from each province
+is sent every three months to collect the tributes, which are levied
+with the most unrelenting rigour. There are some vestiges of the
+Caliphate government still remaining; for in places where no military
+officer resides, the Mufti, or high-priest, is the fountain of all
+justice; he collects the tributes, and under him the Cadis or civil
+officers act in the same manner as our justices of the peace.
+
+The general language of the country is Arabic; but in the inland
+countries, in the provinces of Suz, Tafilet, and Gessula, the ancient
+African language is still spoken. Those remote districts are now under
+the sovereignty of the Emperor of Morocco; but I am told they contain
+nothing particularly curious, except an immense number of pelicans and
+ostriches, the latter so strong as to be able to carry a man upon
+their backs. I one day saw a Moor riding in a court here upon one,
+which he had got from those parts, and tamed for.  show.
+
+The Moors write in the manner of the Hebrew language, from right to
+left; they are wonderfully expeditious in it, and their seals are very
+neat. Public schools have lately been established in all the towns and
+villages of these states; but, as the children are taught by their
+priests, a set of superstitious and fanatic people, no great benefit,
+to change or improve their manners, can accrue from such an
+institution.
+
+I believe, in a former letter I told you that the peasantry reside in
+tents; I have however observed a few huts built of clay, but very
+few. In the centre of both the huts and tents, there is a hole dug in
+the ground, where they make a fire, with an outlet in the roof to vent
+the smoke. They generally burn wood, or a species of charcoal, in the
+preparation of which they contrive to deprive it of the baneful
+effects usually experienced from the use of it in England. They have
+mats spread round the fire, upon which they sit in the day, and sleep
+at night. They are so parsimonious, that they live the greater part of
+the year on fruit, vegetables, and fish, though they supply the
+markets with abundance of fowls (of which they rear immense numbers),
+butter, &c. &c. Their chief defence at night is their dogs; each tent
+is provided with one, and they are so vigilant, that they give instant
+notice of the approach of intruders; and when the alarm is
+communicated to the whole of them, it is scarcely possible to conceive
+the effect.  The habit of the peasantry is the same both winter and
+summer, and consists of a thick garment (frequently old and tattered),
+a short capote, a greasy turban, and a pair of yellow slippers. They
+sometimes throw round them a coarse white _haik_, which also serves
+for a bed and covering in the night, as many of them lie upon the bare
+ground in the open air before their tents.
+
+In my next I shall give you a short sketch of the produce of this
+fertile country.
+
+LETTER XIX.
+
+
+_Face and Produce of the Empire, natural and artificial_.
+
+Mequinez.
+
+The mountains (the principal of which are Mount Diur, Mount Cotta,
+near the city of Larache, the mountain commonly called _Ape's Hill_,
+between Tangiers and Ceuta, and that remarkable ridge called Mount
+Atlas) contain mines of gold, silver, copper, and tin.
+
+The chief capes or promontories of these states are, Cape Cottes or
+Ampelusia, known to our seafaring people by the name of Cape Spartel,
+the _Promontorium Herculis_, and the _Promontorium Oleastrum_, so
+called from the prodigious number of wild olives growing upon it.
+
+All the bays round the coast furnish an abundance of the most
+delicious fish of every kind; and the several rivers are equally
+productive.  The occasional overflow of the rivers greatly enriches
+and fertilizes the soil, to which, more than to their own industry
+(for they never manure their grounds, and are absolute strangers to
+the art of husbandry), are the Moors indebted for their plentiful
+crops of wheat, Turkey corn, rye, rice, oats, barley, and grain of all
+kinds.
+
+I have before told you that this country abounds in fine fruits. The
+most esteemed are, oranges, grapes, pomegranates, lemons, citrons,
+figs, almonds, and dates. The Moors also grow great quantities of
+excellent hemp and flax. Medicinal herbs and roots are very plentiful
+here. Vegetables of every kind, and melons, cucumbers, &c. thrive
+exceedingly well. The grass grows spontaneously to an amazing height,
+and in consequence of the fine pasturage the animals are very
+prolific, cows and mares producing two at a birth, and the sheep
+frequently four lambs in the year.
+
+Among the botanical herbs, plants, and roots, are the colocynth, palma
+Christi, wild and meadow saffron, the great mountain garlic, mountain
+satyrion, senna, rhubarb, bastard rhubarb, balsam apple, horned poppy,
+wild succory, recabilia peruviana, ipecacuanha, wild turnip, wild
+radish, field mustard, Indian cress, dandelion, black winter cherry,
+wild lily, hyacinth, violet, narcissus, wild rose, camomile, tulips,
+and the _fleur de lis_, equal to that of Florence; with a variety of
+others too numerous to describe.
+
+The domestic animals of these states are, the horse, ass, mule, rumrah
+(a beast of burden in the mountainous parts), camel, dromedary,
+antelope, cow, dog, sheep, and large goat. The beasts of prey are,
+lions, tigers, leopards, hyenas, and wolves. The apes are
+innumerable. Deer, wild boars, hares, rabbits, ferrets, weazels,
+moles, and camelions, are also found in great numbers. Horses and
+cattle of all kinds are sold at very low prices.
+
+Among the feathered tribe most common here, are, very large eagles,
+hawks, partridges, quails, wild pigeons, and wild fowl of every kind,
+turtle-doves, and a variety of small birds; among which the capsa
+sparrow is remarkable for the elegance of its plumage and the
+sweetness of its notes, in which it excels every other bird: this
+beautiful little creature cannot live out of its native country.  I
+had almost forgotten to mention the storks and cranes, which are seen
+here in great numbers, and so extremely tame, from being perfectly
+unmolested, that they build their nests and rear their young in the
+very centre of the towns and villages, and on the tops of the towers
+of their mosques. Of the reptile kind, venomous spiders, scorpions,
+vipers, and enormously large serpents, are common in Barbary.
+
+The greatest natural curiosities of this country are the salt-pits
+(which in some places are immensely large), and several hot springs,
+possessing such a great degree of heat, that an egg being put in for a
+short time will become quite hard. The face of the country itself is a
+natural curiosity; the vallies, which are several leagues in extent,
+and the mountains, which reach as far as the deserts of Suz, Tafilet,
+and Gessula, interspersed with forests or corn-fields, and rich
+meadows, are remarkably curious.
+
+The artificial curiosities are very numerous, and claim the attention
+of all who may visit this country. They ought properly to be divided
+into two classes; in the first of which may be placed the
+subterraneous cavern and passage near Tangiers; the ruins of the
+amphitheatres, triumphal arches, temples, &c.  erected by the
+Carthaginians, Romans, and Arabs, at Fez and the several other towns
+of Barbary. The country is besides all over scattered with the remains
+of ditches and ramparts, evidently designed for the defence of camps,
+forts, and castles, no other vestiges of which, however, can be
+found. Besides these, I have observed a number of round towers, which
+appear to have belonged, some to houses of religion, and others to the
+palaces or residences of former rulers in this country.
+
+In the second class, we may place the efforts of the architectural and
+mechanical genius of the present inhabitants, exemplified in the
+wonderful aqueducts at Morocco, which commence in Mount Atlas (by the
+natives called _Gibbel-el-Hadith_), and convey water in the greatest
+abundance to all the houses of the city and its environs. Nor is the
+wheel at Fez, which I mentioned in a former letter, less worthy of
+remark; and several mausoleums in their burial-places have been
+constructed in a very costly style, the stucco of the walls being
+remarkably smooth and beautiful, and as hard as marble; but these
+tombs are exceptions to the general rule; for, as I have before
+observed, the greater part are but rude buildings. There are many
+other curiosities, which to describe minutely would fill a volume.
+
+LETTER XX.
+
+_Practice of Physic--Astrology--Poetry--Entertainment given by the
+Author to the Moors--Their Astonishment at the Effects of
+Electricity_.
+
+
+Mequinez.
+
+I shall now speak of their principal or rather only studies, which
+are, physic, astrology, and poetry. First then of physic, to give you
+an accurate idea of the extent of their knowledge in which, it will be
+sufficient to describe their practice of it; and I am sure you, my
+dear D----, and every other friend to humanity, will agree with me,
+that it would have been better for their countrymen if they had never
+attempted it at all, as unassisted nature would do more, for those
+afflicted with disease, than such bunglers.
+
+The general practice adopted by the Moorish physicians, or _Tweebs_,
+is, bleeding _ad deliquium_ in all fevers; administering excessive
+doses of drastic medicines, plenty of emulsions, and a watery
+diet. They order vinegar in cases of quinsies and ardent fevers, and
+garlic in those of a putrid, malignant, and pestilential kind. They
+prescribe alum in cases of hemorrhage and dysentery; hot spices and
+long abstinences in chronic diseases; recent ox-gall to kill worms and
+cure dropsies; castor and myrrh in all hysteric affections; asses milk
+in slow fevers and consumptions; oranges, honey, eggs, mint, and
+myrrh, in cases of typhus; poppy-juice in convulsive disorders and
+fluxes of the bowels; pitch or tar water and pennyroyal in common
+fevers; rose-leaves in cases of diabetes; and sulphur in all cutaneous
+disorders. This is the whole of the Moorish _materia medica_.  In
+simple diseases, where little medical ability is necessary, and the
+good habit of body of these people in general contributes to their
+success, they may effect a cure; but in desperate cases, where nothing
+but the skill of the physician can relieve oppressed nature, it is not
+astonishing that they should fail. These men are in some measure
+astrologers: most probably, being gifted with a greater degree of
+cunning than their neighbours, they have discovered the weak side of
+their countrymen, together with their own insufficiency, to cover
+which they pretend to a knowledge of the stars, which has the greatest
+weight with the superstitious Moors; consequently, when a patient,
+either by their improper treatment, or the violence of his disease,
+evinces symptoms of approaching dissolution, the doctor, with infinite
+gravity, points out to the surrounding relations the star which, he
+positively asserts, appears to summon the dying man to the bosom of
+his Prophet. By this means he avoids reproach, since he has made it so
+evident, that the poor man's time was come, and that nothing could
+ward off the shafts of destiny.  This apparently wonderful faculty of
+prognostication, added to their exemplary mode of living, and liberal
+donations to the poor and afflicted, operating upon the minds of the
+blind and fanatic Moors, induces _them_ to consider their physicians
+next to their saints, and to worship _them_ with nearly as much
+reverence.
+
+The Tweebs have each from two to six disciples, whom they instruct and
+initiate in their secrets of the healing art. In their regular visits
+to any town, they parade the streets with great pomp and gravity,
+followed by a train of miserable objects, who pretend to have been
+recently recovered from a long and dangerous illness by the
+extraordinary skill of the doctor; while, in fact, their cadaverous
+countenances and emaciated bodies seem to contradict their assertions,
+and bear ample testimony that they are hurrying fast to that country,
+"from whose bourne no traveller returns."  Under the pretence of
+charity, these poor wretches are supported by this Moorish
+AEsculapius, while his views in so doing are entirely selfish; that
+by their means he may better impose on the credulous, and obtain
+considerable sums of money. When any one of them (by chance) effects
+what he considers a great cure, it is communicated in a circular
+letter to all the doctors in Barbary.
+
+They select one of their elders every year, and appoint him to preside
+over them. His business, for the time being, is to settle all their
+controversies: he is the fountain of all justice among them; for as
+they are looked upon to be petty saints, they are a privileged set of
+men, and not in the least subject to either civil or military
+jurisdiction. They possess the art of taming the monstrous serpents of
+the country, and rendering them perfectly harmless: in short, their
+profession is nothing but a system of the grossest empiricism.
+
+Formerly the country could boast of having scientific astronomers;
+for, like the ancient Egyptians, the inhabitants of Barbary cultivated
+the science of astronomy with great success; but as it was
+communicated from generation to generation by tradition only, it is
+not surprising that the increasing indolence of the Moors should have
+made them relinquish the more abstruse parts, and that now it is
+dwindled into mere astrology. Their habitual mode of living,
+frequently exposed at night, during all weathers, in the open air,
+enables them without difficulty to observe the fixed stars, and their
+influence on the weather, and they have thence ascribed to every one
+some peculiar property, by which the events of human life, good or
+bad, are regulated.
+
+In poetry I am told the Moors are very successful.  The subjects of
+their poems are mostly eulogies of the great men who have belonged to
+the tribe of which the poet is a member: these compositions are all
+extempore, like those of our ancient bards, or those of the Celts,
+spoken of by Julius Cæsar, who wandered about in Gaul and other
+parts of the continent with their harps. The poets of Barbary have no
+settled home, but with an instrument somewhat resembling a mandolin
+they wander from place to place, and house to house, composing and
+singing pieces improviso, on the honour and antiquity of their
+tribe. From persons acquainted with the language, I have heard, that
+they are very happy in this species of poetry, which is far from
+deficient in point of harmony. For myself I can say, that though
+unable to enter into the spirit of it from the circumstance of not
+perfectly understanding the language, yet I was much pleased with the
+effect.
+
+I shall conclude this letter with a short description of an
+entertainment which I gave to several of the inhabitants of this place
+a few days since. Having invited as many as I could conveniently
+accommodate, I regaled them with all the most exquisite things the
+market afforded. I passed the bottle pretty briskly, telling them the
+liquor was a favourite decoction of mine, which they might drink
+without any scruple. They did not seem to wish to doubt this
+assertion; and having raised their spirits to a flow of mirth and
+jollity, I told them, that, as they had done me the honour of coming
+to dine with me, I would endeavour to amuse them with a small specimen
+of what the doctors in England commonly make use of in certain
+chronical complaints. I then placed my electric machine in the centre
+of the court, and having loaded it with a sufficient quantity of
+electric fluid, produced such a powerful shock to about a dozen of the
+stoutest, that, either from surprise or terror, they fell apparently
+senseless on the floor. The consternation and confusion which ensued
+were beyond description; the rest were all retiring precipitately with
+the most dreadful yells and cries imaginable, expecting to share the
+fate of their companions. With much difficulty I prevailed on them to
+remain, and, raising the men from the ground, I convinced them they
+had received no injury; upon which they unanimously attributed it to
+my great skill in magic, and loaded me with a thousand compliments, I
+repeated the experiment three or four times, to their inexpressible
+wonder, and I was at length almost hailed as a supernatural being. The
+report of this extraordinary phenomenon soon spread abroad, and a vast
+concourse of people assembled; but my guard would not allow any one to
+enter without my permission. In the evening I sent for a band of
+music, and my company continued dancing and rioting till morning. They
+brought in several Jewish women, and carried the farce to such a
+length, that I was completely rejoiced to get rid of them,
+determining, in my own mind, never again to venture such another
+entertainment.
+
+LETTER XXI.
+
+_Prevalent Diseases--Abuse of Stimulants--Medicinal
+Well--Sorcery--Hydrophobia._
+
+
+Mequinez.
+
+Although the plague is not so common in these states as in Turkey and
+Egypt, yet it is often brought hither by means of the caravans, and
+several articles of luxury imported annually by the merchants from
+Mecca and Medina; and, for want of proper precaution, it is suffered
+to spread, to desolate, and to stop of its own accord; for the Moors
+continue obstinately blinded by the same superstitious and absurd
+notions that are entertained by the Mahometans of the Turkish empire,
+of its being a punishment occasionally inflicted upon the true
+believers by their angry Prophet, and that it is incurable; and here I
+receive on this subject the same tales and romantic accounts that I
+did during my residence in Egypt in the year 1801.
+
+The most prevailing diseases in this country that have come under my
+observation, are, cutaneous disorders of all kinds, intermittent
+fevers, those of a putrid, malignant, pestilential kind, and the
+puerperal fever, which proceeds from the barbarous treatment of
+lying-in women in this country, as they are kept in small confined
+rooms, deprived of the benefit of pure air.
+
+One day I went to see a very fine young woman, the lady of one of the
+Xeriffes. The heat of the room was intolerable. After much persuasion,
+I succeeded in having her removed to a cooler one, and she recovered,
+contrary to the predictions of the female attendant, who reported the
+daily changes to a celebrated doctor here. It is wonderful what
+numbers of young women fall victims to this fever in the course of a
+year.
+
+Besides the above-mentioned complaints, I have observed insanity,
+epilepsy, spasmodic affections of the face, ruptures of all kinds
+(which last are produced by their loose kind of trowsers); nervous
+consumptions, extreme debility, and dropsy, brought on by their
+indolent manner of living, and the great abuses of violent doses of
+drastic medicines.
+
+The principal and opulent inhabitants of this country, in order to
+excite certain desires, are frequently in the habit of receiving, from
+their own doctors, several strong and powerful stimulants, to the
+infallible detriment and ultimate, destruction of their
+constitutions. I have been at great pains to deter them from these
+abominable habits, by representing to them their ill effects and fatal
+consequences; but as they all appear to have a great propensity for a
+short life and a merry one, I fear my advice has been thrown away, for
+I have daily the most pressing and importunate solicitations from all
+classes of people, both young and old, to give them the medicines I
+have alluded to:--but 1 must here be clearly understood, that
+debauchery which exists in all the principal towns of this country in
+a superlative degree, does not extend to the inland and mountainous
+parts, where the morals are pure, and the people remarkably healthy,
+strong, and robust, living to a very advanced age, and scarcely ever
+afflicted with any disease excepting cutaneous disorders, to which
+they are very subject. The great abuse of blood-letting on all
+trifling occasions, practised by the rich inhabitants, produces very
+bad effects.
+
+There is a well in the neighbourhood of this town, which possesses a
+great many medicinal virtues; and though I have not been able to
+ascertain its mineral qualities, I have found, by using the water,
+that it is extremely friendly to the stomach, that it excites appetite
+and digestion, and lively spirits; that it is efficacious in the cure
+of gravel and nephritic complaints; and in cases of foulness of the
+blood, I have found it superior to any mineral waters I have met with
+in Europe.  It has completely cured my Jew servant of a most
+inveterate scurvy, under which he had laboured for a very considerable
+time.
+
+Notwithstanding the Moors possess this inestimable treasure near one
+of their most opulent and populous cities, yet, owing to fabulous
+tales, handed down by tradition from one generation to another, these
+superstitious people will never drink or disturb the water; to do so
+is reckoned sacrilege, and the offender is severely punished: for they
+positively affirm, that one of their great saints has been transmuted
+into it, and that at some distant period he will resume his natural
+form, to perform a great many miracles, and to render the Moors rich
+and happy, more so indeed than Mahomet has promised them in the other
+world.
+
+While I have been here, I have had daily intercourse with the most
+eminent of their Tweebs. They pay me regular morning visits,
+questioning me on several points. One day I was asked by what means
+health was preserved, and what produced disease in the human body; I
+answered, that, "among several other remote causes, the air, by its
+different constitutions, had a great effect upon the human frame: that
+diseases revolve periodically, and keep time and measure exactly with
+the seasons of the year; and that either health or disease depended in
+some measure on the universal influence of the air, by its gravity,
+heat, cold, moisture, dryness, or exhalations."  They have no idea of
+natural philosophy, nor of the knowledge and physiology of the air, or
+how to change and destroy its bad qualities in close and confined
+places. After much persuasion, I prevailed on some of them to make use
+of the fuming mixture of brimstone and aromatic ingredients, in all
+cases of pestilential fevers.  Though this is not so efficacious as
+the nitrous acid, yet it will considerably abate the progress of
+contagion, and they are acquainted with the materials of the former,
+whereas they have not the smallest idea of the latter.
+
+They are perfectly ignorant of the animal and comparative anatomy, and
+of physiology and pathology. They have no notion either of the nervous
+fluid, or of the solids, their restriction and relaxation. They have
+no other idea of the fluids than the blood, to a superabundance of
+which they attribute all the diseases incident to the human body. In
+the spring they recommend bleeding, to ensure a good state of health
+for the remainder of the year. These Tweebs are wonderfully reserved
+in all their actions.
+
+The Moors have great faith in sorcery and witchcraft. I was called
+upon to visit a young man about eighteen, who was universally believed
+to be possessed by an evil spirit.  His case was a confirmed
+hydrophobia. I informed the people that the disease was occasioned by
+the bite of a mad dog, and that the man would die in the course of the
+ensuing night. I inquired the next morning, when I found that I had
+judged correctly. I have also visited several young women who were
+reported to have been bewitched. Some I found labouring under the last
+stage of a nervous consumption; others under a dangerous and incurable
+lunacy. In short, nothing can exceed the ignorance and superstition of
+these deluded people.
+
+I am afraid, my dear D----, I have trespassed on your patience, both
+in this letter and the last, as nothing but physic and its
+practitioners have been introduced and discussed.  I have certainly
+been too selfish; for, while I have been pursuing a subject the most
+interesting to me from the nature of my profession, a thought never
+once obtruded itself, that my friend perhaps would take no interest in
+the relation. However, by way of compensation, I give you leave to
+wish the Moorish physicians and their physic at the bottom of the Red
+Sea, and me with them, if you choose; but I have now done with them,
+and my next will, most probably, not be from Mequinez, as I think I
+have a good opportunity of returning to Gibraltar.
+
+LETTER XXII.
+
+
+_Depart for Gibraltar--Oppressive Heat--Robbers--Arrive at
+Larache--Affray of some English Sailors--Letter from the Governor to
+Lord Collingwood._
+
+Larache, August I, 1806.
+
+
+
+I was perfectly right in my conjectures, that you would hear no more
+from me at Mequinez.  Having succeeded in curing the patients under my
+care, and no disease of any consequence prevailing in the country, I
+thought it a favourable opportunity to request permission of the
+Emperor to return to Gibraltar; and having obtained it, I set off for
+this place.
+
+On my way hither, I experienced the most dreadful inconvenience from
+the heat of the weather; it was oppressive in the extreme, and I was
+constantly annoyed with the sight of dead horses, mules, asses, cows,
+&c. that had perished on the road, from excessive heat and want of
+water. The rivers which I had observed on my way to Mequinez, and the
+waters of which I had so much relished, I now found completely dried
+up. We also suffered considerably from the want of fresh water, for
+that we had brought with us in bags became so hot, that nothing but
+the most dire necessity could have compelled us to make use of it;
+fortunately we now and then met with fields full of fine water-melons,
+of a most exquisite flavour: we sought them with the greatest avidity,
+and obtained relief from the excessive thirst with which we were
+oppressed. We were obliged to make very short stages, and to halt
+every hour under the shade of some tall trees, to recover ourselves.
+
+I have had two or three most unpleasant encounters (on my way from
+Mequinez) with robbers. In the first I ran the risk of my life. It was
+the sixth day after we left Mequinez, as I was loitering considerably
+in the rear of my party, I was accosted by a common Moor on horseback,
+who, after surveying me from head to foot, asked for a pinch of snuff,
+which I gave him; then spying the gold chain of my watch, he attempted
+to seize it; but I prevented him by spurring my horse and galloping
+off to join my guard: the fellow fired his piece, which fortunately
+missed, and gave me an opportunity of returning the compliment, and of
+wounding him; when perceiving my guard coming at full speed to my
+assistance, wounded as he was, he made off across the fields, and was
+soon out of sight. This event (which, had I been in other
+circumstances, would have had no weight with me) I frankly confess so
+much agitated my spirits, already exhausted by the intense heat and
+intolerable thirst under which I suffered, that I found myself unable
+to proceed much further. At a little distance was a forest, and to the
+shade of that we determined to repair for the rest of the day,
+provided we could find a convenient spot to pitch our tents upon. We
+reached it about nine o'clock in the morning: I was assisted to
+dismount, and stretching myself on the burnt grass, under a clump of
+olive-trees, I desired my men to look about for a place to erect our
+tents. After a few minutes absence, they returned with the joyful
+intelligence, that they had met with a fine spring of water, and near
+it a sufficient space for our tents. This might indeed be called
+resuscitation to our drooping spirits. I arose with more alertness
+than I thought possible, and followed my men to this delightful
+spot. My wine was expended, and we were therefore glad of a glass of
+spirits and water, which completely recovered us; and we were enabled
+to enjoy a good dinner, which my Jew servant prepared.
+
+We encamped, on this spot, for the night also; and from the occurrence
+of the morning, I thought it highly expedient to take every measure to
+prevent a repetition. I therefore ordered two or three fires to be
+kindled round our tents, and placed several sentinels about, to watch
+if any one approached. Having made these arrangements, and given
+strict orders to the serjeant to be on the alert, I repaired to rest;
+but there certainly was some spell, to prevent my enjoying what I
+stood so much in need of, a _sound_ sleep. I had retired, but a very
+short time, to my tent, when I was suddenly roused by an alarm of The
+robbers!  the robbers! The ruffians had contrived to slip in so
+privately, that, unperceived, they carried off one of my trunks, and
+were in the act of mounting two of my mules, when they were
+detected. They instantly made off with the trunk and mules. The
+confusion among my people was much greater than was necessary, and
+some time was lost in useless upbraidings.
+
+I went out with the intention of calling the serjeant to a severe
+account, when I was informed that he had just gone in pursuit with six
+others. Those that remained kept vigilant watch with me the rest of
+the night. At break of day our party returned. They soon came up with
+the robbers, who, finding themselves so closely pursued, and likely to
+be overtaken, relinquished their booty to facilitate their escape. I
+had the satisfaction therefore to recover my trunk and mules. The
+serjeant employed the whole of his rhetorical abilities to give weight
+to the affair. I soon perceived that his account was much exaggerated,
+and immediately comprehended that his drift was to obtain a reward
+from me. I did not disappoint him, but ordered an extra allowance of
+rum to him and the rest of the party. As you may suppose, I was very
+anxious to quit a place where I had been made so uneasy, I ordered the
+tents to be struck; and, after riding five hours, we halted near a
+village, upon a pleasant hill about thirty miles from Larache, where
+we were abundantly supplied with provisions by the Cadi. From this
+place we had a most delightful prospect of the Atlantic Ocean to our
+left, and, to the right and front, an extensive forest and an immense
+plain of corn-fields and meadows. We set forward again at daybreak;
+and by pursuing our journey in the afternoon, for it was utterly
+impossible to travel in the middle of the day, we reached this city
+(Larache) late in the evening.
+
+After breakfast next morning, as I was going up to the Castle to pay
+my devoirs to the worthy Governor, my attention was arrested by a
+great riot in the street. Perceiving four of our sailors likely to
+become the victims of an enraged multitude, I hastened to their
+relief.  I found that the disturbance was occasioned by their
+imprudence in attempting to inspect the face of a Moorish woman. They
+belonged to a Gibraltar privateer, which had just arrived at this port
+to take in refreshment.  Having drank too much _aguardiente_ they
+imagined themselves in the streets of Gibraltar. I found no great
+difficulty in prevailing on the mob not to injure them, and in
+ensuring them a safe conduct back to their vessel. I recommended the
+commander of the privateer to put to sea without loss of time. The
+Governor not only forgave the offence, but sent plenty of fresh
+provisions on board for the ship's company just as the vessel was
+getting under way.
+
+Commanders of armed vessels putting into a port of these states should
+not, on any account, suffer their men to go on shore, as they are very
+apt to ridicule the Moors, who are a set of people not to be trifled
+with. To prevent, therefore, any unpleasant occurrences, that may tend
+to lessen the high opinion which the Moors in general entertain of the
+English, and in order to defeat the views of the French party, which
+are incessantly directed towards forming dangerous cabals against the
+interest of the British nation, some effectual means ought to be
+applied. The Moors are very fickle, and their predilection may be
+converted into hatred, which is exactly the point the French aim at,
+to the great detriment of our fleet stationed in those seas, but
+particularly to the garrison of Gibraltar, and would ultimately
+involve us in an unprofitable war.
+
+His Excellency has written to Lord Collingwood, to request a vessel to
+convey me to Gibraltar; he has very handsomely given me a copy of the
+letter he sent, which I inclose for your perusal.
+
+
+"Larache, July 27th, 1806.
+
+"MY LORD,
+
+"His Imperial Majesty has been pleased to bestow on Dr. Buffa many
+presents, consisting of horses, mules, &c. &c.  and entertains a great
+regard for him on account of the good he has done in Barbary; my Royal
+Master has also been graciously pleased to give him a letter to the
+King of England, intreating that the Doctor be permitted to attend the
+Emperor occasionally, and to reside for the future, for that service,
+at Tangiers or Gibraltar.
+
+"In compliance with His Imperial Majesty's wishes, I have now most
+earnestly to request that your Lordship will be pleased to order
+Dr. Buffa a sure conveyance to the garrison of Gibraltar, and one of
+His Majesty's transports to receive the presents given to him, as a
+reward for his merit, and for his good and steady conduct during his
+stay with us. The Doctor carries with him the good wishes of all the
+Moors attached to my Royal Master; and I have the honour to assure
+your Lordship, that he has daily exerted himself with me, and lately
+with His Imperial Majesty, for the service of his King, and for that
+of his fellow-subjects at Gibraltar. On this account alone I hope your
+Lordship will, as soon as possible, afford him an opportunity to join
+his family, at Gibraltar, in safety.
+
+"I have the honour to be,
+
+"My Lord,
+
+"Your Lordship's
+
+"Friend and servant,
+
+(Signed)
+
+"MOHAMMED ABDALLAH ESLAWEE,
+
+Governor of Larache, &c. &c. &c.
+
+_To the Right Hon. Lord Collingwood,
+Admiral and Commander in Chief, &c. &c. &c._
+
+
+
+
+LETTER XXIII.
+
+Embark for Gibraltar--Precautionary Hints.
+
+
+                            Gibraltar.
+
+In compliance with the request of the Governor of Larache, His
+Majesty's hired armed ship the Lord Eldon was ordered by Lord
+Collingwood to convey me to this place. She arrived at Larache about a
+week after I wrote last. The bar unfortunately proved so bad, that she
+was obliged to drop her anchor on the outside; and the Captain,
+conceiving it an unsafe anchorage, pressed me to repair on board
+without delay, which I did, after taking a long farewell of my noble
+friend the Governor, who, with tears in his eyes, embraced me, and
+otherwise evinced his infinite regret and true friendship.
+
+We embarked all my horses, mules, &c.  &c. without any accident, and
+immediately after set sail for Tangiers. I cannot find words to
+describe the interesting, curious, and romantic appearance of the
+Barbary coast, from Larache to Tangiers, when viewed from the sea. I
+took my station on the quarter-deck, and, as we sailed close in shore,
+my curiosity was fully gratified. There are several small bays and
+creeks along this coast, which unfortunately afford shelter to the
+enemy's privateers, where, in perfect security, they remain concealed,
+watching an opportunity to come out and seize any of our straggling
+vessels that have either separated from, or are waiting for convoy to
+enter the Straits.
+
+It is a great pity that the number of our gun-boats at this port
+(Gibraltar) is so limited, as a larger number of them, and a few other
+small vessels kept in readiness here, and well appointed, would
+protect our commerce, and prevent our suffering so much from the
+Spanish boats, and several small French cruizers, which infest this
+part of the world, and almost daily capture some of our merchantmen,
+which they carry into Algesiras in sight of this garrison.
+
+
+
+
+
+APPENDIX.
+
+
+
+No. I.
+
+Copy of a Letter from JOHN TURNBULL, Esquire, Chairman to the Board of
+Trade, to E. COOKE, Esquire, Under Secretary of State, &c. &c. &c.
+
+
+SIR,
+
+In my capacity of General Chairman of the Merchants trading to the
+Mediterranean, and in consequence of the commercial relations which I
+have long maintained with Gibraltar, I think it my duty to submit,
+with great deference, to the consideration of Lord Castlereagh certain
+observations respecting the late dreadful calamity, which afflicted
+that garrison. The great mortality which then prevailed, and which
+carried off almost the whole of the civil inhabitants, was in a great
+degree to be imputed to the want of medical assistance for the poorer
+classes of the people, who are chiefly foreigners. The physicians and
+surgeons attached to the army, had every moment of their time fully
+occupied by the care of the troops immediately under their charge. If
+even they could have spared a little attention to the miserable
+objects just mentioned, it could probably have produced but a very
+inadequate effect. As the medical gentlemen could not be supposed to
+be acquainted with the various foreign dialects that these people
+could only make use of, they were therefore obliged to be abandoned to
+their fate; and by their numerous deaths, and the intercourse they had
+with one another, necessarily occasioned a deplorable increase of
+contagion. It is therefore respectfully suggested, that, as the return
+of such a disorder ought at any rate to be guarded against, it would
+be highly desirable, that a medical gentleman, conversant with the
+languages of the southern parts of Europe, should be appointed as
+physician to the civil inhabitants of Gibraltar, and for their express
+and immediate care. There is now in London, a gentleman (Doctor
+Buffa), Physician to His Majesty's Forces, who appears to be
+peculiarly well qualified for such an appointment. He is possessed of
+superior medical abilities, and particularly in the disorders of the
+plague and yellow-fever, in the treatment of which he has had much
+experience and success; and having been born in Piedmont, he is well
+acquainted with the southern languages of Europe. If Lord Castlereagh
+should be pleased to approve of Doctor Buffa being placed at
+Gibraltar, in the situation which I have taken the liberty to suggest,
+it would occasion no extraordinary expense to Government, Doctor Buffa
+being now one of the Physicians to the Army, and might eventually be
+productive of the most beneficial effects.
+
+
+  I have the honour to be, most respectfully,
+        SIR,
+   Your most obedient and
+   Most humble servant,
+   (Signed)          JOHN TURNBULL.
+
+Guilford Street, 5th August 1805.
+
+E. Cooke, Esq.
+&c. &c. &c.
+
+
+
+No. II.
+
+Letter from the Secretary of the Transport Board to Dr. BUFFA.
+
+
+Transport Office, 16th October 1805.
+
+SIR,
+
+I am directed by the Board to acquaint you, that a passage to
+Gibraltar has been provided for yourself, Mrs. Buffa, your family and
+brother-in-law, on board the Active transport; and that you may embark
+on board that ship at Deptford immediately.
+
+I am further directed to add, that it will be necessary for you to
+find your own provisions.
+
+
+    I am, Sir,
+    Your most obedient servant,
+    A. WHITEHEAD, Secretary.
+
+    _To Dr. Buffa,
+    &c. &c. &c._
+
+
+No. III.
+
+Extract of a Letter from JOHN TURNBULL, Esq. Chairman of the
+Committee of Merchants trading to the Levant, &c. to Dr. BUFFA.
+
+MY DEAR SIR,
+
+On your arrival at Gibraltar, I was favoured with two letters from
+you; but have not since had the pleasure of hearing from you. Nor have
+I written to you, as, notwithstanding the unremitting endeavours, and
+the constant attention, on every occasion, of His Royal Highness and
+myself, it has not been in our power to do any thing effectual to
+serve you. The Medical Board _continue to give all the opposition that
+they possibly can_, and made a very unfavourable report, in
+consequence of a strong representation that I made in your favour to
+Mr. Windham.
+
+London, 7th July 1806.
+
+
+
+No. IV.
+
+Extract of a Letter from JOHN ROSS, Esq. Acting
+Consul General at Tangiers, to Dr. BUFFA.
+
+Friday, 7th May 1806.
+
+DEAR SIR,
+
+I heard only to-day of your arrival at
+Tetuan on your way to Larache, and this evening
+received an express from Indy Mahamed Slawey,
+Governor of that place, to request that, if I knew
+you had been in this country, you would use
+every possible endeavour to come to him at
+Larache; and to accompany him to the Emperor
+who wished to see you.
+
+Let me therefore request your moving as quick
+as possible to Larache direct from Tetuan, and
+join him before he departs. Should you miss
+him, he has left orders to his Lieutenant-governor
+there, to forward you to Sidy immediately.
+
+
+
+
+No. V.
+
+Letter written to JOHN ROSS, Esq. Acting Consul General at Tangiers.
+
+
+Larache, May 17th, 1806.
+
+SIR,
+
+His Excellency the Governor of this place having last evening received
+a letter from the Emperor, inclosing a communication transmitted by
+the French Consul, together with a note from Paris, His Excellency has
+honoured me with both to peruse. Their contents were the most severe
+philippics against England; our blessed government was represented the
+most perfidious and treacherous in the world, and great art used to
+excite distrust, and to produce a rupture with England. M. Talleyrand
+informs His Imperial Majesty, by command, of the taking of Naples, and
+the republic of Ragusa; that Bonaparte, for certain political reasons,
+has thought it expedient to appoint Louis Bonaparte King of Holland;
+and Joseph, his other brother, King of the Two Sicilies: that it was
+Bonaparte's determination to exclude the English from every port in
+Europe: that Ceuta should, as soon as an opportunity offers, be
+occupied entirely by French troops; that Spain and Portugal would soon
+become provinces of France, and that His Imperial Majesty could do no
+better thing than to abandon the English, and make common cause with
+France: that the French Consul was charged to demand five thousand
+bullocks, as many horses and mules; wheat and barley for the French
+forces: that an equivalent in territory should be given to the
+Emperor, and a certain scheme submitted to the Court of Morocco highly
+honourable and advantageous to Barbary.
+
+I told His Excellency to be on his guard; for that, by art, Bonaparte
+has enslaved, plundered, and overturned the continent of Europe: that
+I could not help ridiculing the idea of exporting provisions and
+cattle from Barbary: that Bonaparte might cause them to be exported by
+air-balloons, but by no other means or conveyance, while England rules
+the seas. I availed myself of this opportunity of delineating the
+features of the Great Nation, and relating the acts and deeds of
+Bonaparte at Alexandria, Acre, and Jaffa; which had the desired
+effect. He then confidentially informed me, that the Emperor had
+commanded him to reply to the French government as he deemed most
+conducive to the interest and good of Barbary: that he should cut
+matters short: that proper steps should be taken to defeat their
+cabals and intrigues, and a watchful eye kept for the future on the
+motions of the French Consul, and all his agents; and that I might
+assure the British government, that his influence shall always be used
+for the interests of the English. Upon which I thanked him, and told
+him that the Emperor might always command my services, whenever he
+deemed them necessary.
+
+You will no longer apprehend the ascendancy of the French in this part
+of the world, as it is all over with them; nor will they ever succeed
+as long as this excellent Moorish Chief guides the councils of thee
+Emperor.
+
+I remain, with due respect,
+
+SIR,
+
+Your Most obedient servant,
+
+JOHN BUFFA.
+
+To John Ross, Esq.
+Acting Consul General,                                '
+Tangiers.
+
+No. VI.
+
+Letter from Captain STEWART, of His Majesty's
+Ship Seahorse, to ----.
+
+
+His Britannic Majesty's Frigate Seahorse, June 1806.
+
+MOST  NOBLE AND EXCELLENT SIR,
+
+Presuming on the great friendship between our royal masters, I have
+sent an officer on shore to request of you, leave to purchase some
+cattle, sheep, and fowls, for myself, my officers and crew, who have
+been long cruizing without fresh provisions. He is authorized to draw
+bills on the British government for the amount of the purchase, which
+I will approve and sign.
+
+The quantity of cattle we want, will be about twenty-five, of sheep
+about eighteen, and of fowls about twelve dozen (besides some eggs and
+vegetables), more or less, according to the price.
+
+May the light of Heaven be shed upon you many years!
+
+
+           I have the honour to be, with great respect,
+                      Your most obedient humble servant,
+                             JOHN STEWART, Captain.
+
+
+
+No. VII.
+
+    Letter from Lord COLLINGWOOD to His Excellency
+               the Governor of Larache.
+
+                           Ocean, off Cadiz, 8th July 1806.
+
+MOST EXCELLENT GOVERNOR,
+
+I have received the letter which Your Excellency directed to be wrote
+by Dr. Buffa to one of my officers who sent to Larache for stock; and
+I beg to express to you the great satisfaction I have in every
+instance which demonstrates the friendship which is entertained, by
+His Imperial Majesty, for the King of Great Britain, and his subjects;
+and to assure Your Excellency, that, on my part, I shall always be
+happy in every opportunity of shewing you, that the same sentiment of
+friendship and kindness is felt by us towards the Moors.
+
+I am much obliged to Your Excellency for the supplies of refreshment,
+which you are pleased to offer to my ships, which may call at Larache.
+And wishing you health,
+
+I am,
+
+Most excellent Governor,
+
+Your friend and servant.
+
+COLLINGWOOD.
+
+To His Excellency
+
+the Governor of Larache.
+
+
+
+No. VIII.
+
+Letter to the Right Honourable Lord COLLINGWOOD, &c. &c. &c.
+
+Michanez, July 16th, 1808.
+
+MY LORD,
+
+I am instructed by His Excellency the Governor of Larache, and
+principal minister of the Emperor of Morocco, to acknowledge the
+receipt of your Lordship's letter, directed to him at Larache, of the
+8th instant, and feel great satisfaction in being able thus to convey
+His Excellency's assurance to your Lordship, that nothing shall be
+wanting on his part to forward (which is verbatim what he directed me
+to write) the interest of the English, as long as he shall retain any
+influence with his royal master; that he has always felt great
+pleasure in promoting the views and wishes of the late English Consul,
+and shall ever continue the same.
+
+He has represented to His Imperial Majesty the affair of the French
+privateer, which was driven on shore near Tangiers, by one of your
+Lordship's small vessels. His Excellency commands me to inform your
+Lordship, that His Imperial Majesty highly approves of the noble and
+generous conduct of the English on that occasion, and deprecates that
+of the French, lamenting, that when the marauders landed on the
+Moorish shore, his subjects did not put every Frenchman to death.
+
+His Imperial Majesty greatly laments the undeserved treatment which
+was offered near Tetuan to one of your Lordship's officers, by an
+unworthy officer under the command of Governor Ash-Ash. His Imperial
+Majesty, at His Excellency's representation, solicited by me, has
+written, some time since, a letter to Ash-Ash, strictly enjoining and
+commanding him to favour the interest of the English only, and not to
+take any French part directly or indirectly, on pain of His Majesty's
+eternal displeasure; the more so, as His Imperial Majesty's solicitude
+and resolve is now to keep up that friendship and good understanding
+which has hitherto been evinced on all occasions on the part of the
+King of Britain, and His Imperial Majesty, who desires to be made
+known to your Lordship his decided partiality to the English. His
+Excellency wishes your Lordship health and prosperity.
+
+I have the honour to be, my Lord,
+
+Your Lordship's
+
+Most obedient humble servant,
+
+J. BUFFA.
+
+    To His Excellency
+    Lord Collingwood,
+    &c. &c. &c.
+
+    By order of Mahomed Abdalah Eslawee,
+    Governor of Larache, and first Minister
+    to the Emperor.
+
+
+
+No. IX.
+
+Translation of a Letter written by His Excellency the Governor of
+Larache, And first Minister to the Emperor of Morocco, to the Right
+Honourable Lord COLLINGWOOD.
+
+Larache, July 27th, 1806.
+
+His Imperial Majesty having been pleased to permit Doctor Buffa to
+return to Gibraltar, and entertaining a great regard for him, on
+account of the good he has done in Barbary, the Emperor has also been
+pleased to testify the same in a letter written with his own hand, to
+the King of Great Britain, strongly pressing His Majesty that the
+Doctor may be permitted to attend him occasionally, and to reside upon
+a fixed appointment at Gibraltar. In compliance with His Imperial
+Majesty's wishes, I have now most earnestly to request that your
+Lordship will be pleased to order him a sure and commodious conveyance
+for Gibraltar, and to take in the presents he has received as a reward
+for his merit, and for his good and steady conduct during his stay
+with us. The Doctor carries with him the good wishes of all the Moors
+attached to my Royal and Imperial Master; and I have the honour to
+assure your Lordship, that he has daily exerted himself with me, and
+lately with the Emperor, for the service of His Majesty's navy, and
+for the garrison of Gibraltar.
+
+On this account alone, I hope your Lordship will, as soon as possible,
+afford him an opportunity of joining his family in safety.
+
+
+             Health and prosperity.
+
+                 (Signed)
+         MAHOMED BEN ABDALAH ESLAWEE.
+
+
+
+No. X.
+
+Translation of a Letter, in the Arabic Language, from Sultan SOLYMAN
+BEN MAHOMED, Emperor of Morocco, to His Majesty GEORGE the Third, King
+of Great Britain, &c, &c, &c. &c.
+
+In the name of God, the all-merciful and commiserating God; on whom is
+our account, and whose support we acknowledge; for there is neither
+creation, nor power, but that which proceeds from God, the high and
+eternal God.
+
+From the servant of God, the commander of the faithful in Mahomed,
+upheld and supported by the grace of God, Solyman the son of Mahomed,
+the son of Abd' Allah, the son of Ismael, Prince of Hassenie, ever
+upheld by the power of God, Sultan of Fez, of Morocco, of Suze, of
+Dea'ha, of Tafilet, and of Tuat, together with all the territories of
+the Garban West.
+
+                     /--------------\
+                    /      L .S.     \
+                   /   Solyman the    \
+                  | Son  of  Mahommed, |
+                  |      &c.  &c.      |
+                  |    God illumine    |
+                  |     and support    |
+                   \       him,       /
+                    \    &c. &c.     /
+                     \--------------/
+
+To our cherished, our dearly beloved brother (who is exalted by the
+power of God), Sultan George the Third, Sultan of the territories of
+the United Kingdom of Great Britain and Ireland, Duke of Mecklenberg,
+Prince descended from the line or dynasty of the Emperors of Rome and
+Palestine.
+
+This premised, we inform you, that we continually make diligent and
+friendly inquiry concerning you, desiring from our heart, that you may
+be at all times surrounded by wealth and prosperity. We wish you to
+increase in friendship with us, that our alliance may be stronger than
+heretofore, even stronger than it was in the days of our ancestors,
+whom God guard and protect. Now therefore we make known to you, that
+your physician and servant Dr. Buffa has been in our royal presence,
+which is exalted by the bounty of God; and we have been pleased with
+his medical knowledge and diligent attention; and moreover with the
+relief he hath given to us. We have therefore to entreat or to ask of
+you, to give him your royal order to return to our neighbourhood, to
+Gibraltar, well provided with all good and necessary medicines; that
+he, residing at Gibraltar, may be ready to attend quickly on our royal
+person, whenever we may stand in need of his medical assistance: we
+trust you will therefore return him immediately without delay or
+procrastination; seeing that he has been of essential service to us.
+And we recommend you to exalt Dr. Buffa in your favour, and we will
+always be your allies and friends. May you be ever surrounded by
+wealth and prosperity! Peace be with you! The fourth day of the month
+of Jumad Elute, in the year of the Hágira 1222, answering to
+the fifth or sixth of July 1807.
+
+Done into the English as literally as the incompatibility of the
+idioms of the two languages would admit of, by JAMES GRAY JACKSON,
+professor of African and Arabic languages.
+
+Fenchurch Buildings, July 1807.
+
+
+
+No. XI.
+
+
+Translations from the Arabic. The first received the 18th January; the
+latter, 6th July, 1808.
+
+
+    In the name of God, from Mahomed Ben
+    Abdalah Eslawee, Governor of Tetuan, Tangiers,
+    and its dependencies, &c. &c. &c.
+
+
+                To Doctor BUFFA.
+
+
+Since your departure from us, we have not received any letter, nor
+heard from you; so not having heard any thing of you, we are much
+uneasy and concerned about you: for we love you. We are ordered by the
+sacred commands of our Sultan, to require you will acquaint us how you
+are, if any thing has happened you; and that you will return to us
+with an answer to the sacred letter entrusted to you, with a fresh
+supply of medicines, according to your promise.
+
+We also request you will endeavour to obtain from the English
+Government, two masts for a frigate, of forty-five feet each, which
+you will cause to be sent by a frigate to Larache; and all the
+expense which may occur, will be paid without fail. We hope you will
+assist as much as possible in this business; and we wish you health,
+prosperity, and a speedy return among us.
+
+(Signed)
+
+MAHOMED BEN ABDALAH ESLAWEE.
+
+In the Year of the Hágira 1223.
+
+
+
+No. XII.
+
+The second Letter, prefaced as the former, to Doctor BUFFA.
+
+We have continued to make incessant inquiries after you, but all to no
+purpose. What has become, or befallen you, we know not; nothing, we
+hope, very bad. We consider you a very good man, honest and
+honourable; you cannot wilfully forfeit your sacred pledge, your
+promise, your honour to return to us. We were afraid you were dead,
+but we heard lately you are alive, and resident in London. Return then
+to the presence of our great Sultan, and every thing you will
+reasonably ask for your nation shall be granted to your nation, shall
+be granted to you. The supplies shall be increased to Gibraltar, and
+you will be treated as before, and, if possible, better still; for we
+love you. Return then without fear to the presence of our great
+Sultan, and prove yourself a true Englishman, by keeping your
+promise. We wish you good health and prosperity.
+
+(Signed)
+
+MAHOMED BEN ABDALAH ESLAWEE.
+
+Tetuan.
+
+In the Year of the Hágira 1223.
+
+*** END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 11297 ***
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+in the PUBLIC DOMAIN IN THE UNITED STATES.
+
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+
+No investigation has been made concerning possible copyrights in
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+Project Gutenberg (https://www.gutenberg.org) public repository for
+eBook #11297 (https://www.gutenberg.org/ebooks/11297)
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+The Project Gutenberg eBook, Travels through the Empire of Morocco, by
+John Buffa
+
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+
+
+
+Title: Travels through the Empire of Morocco
+
+Author: John Buffa
+
+Release Date: February 26, 2004  [eBook #11297]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: UTF-8
+
+
+***START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK TRAVELS THROUGH THE EMPIRE OF
+MOROCCO***
+
+Produced by Distributed Proofreaders Europe, http://dp.rastko.net
+Project by Carlo Traverso.
+This file was produced from images generously made available by the
+Bibliotheque nationale de France (BnF/Gallica) at http://gallica.bnf.fr.
+
+
+
+
+[Illustration: Map of the Empire of MOROCCO for Dr. BUFFA'S TRAVELS]
+
+
+TRAVELS
+
+THROUGH THE
+
+EMPIRE OF MOROCCO.
+
+BY
+
+JOHN BUFFA, M.D.
+
+PHYSICIAN TO THE FORCES.
+
+
+ILLUSTRATED WITH A MAP.
+
+LONDON:
+
+
+1810.
+
+
+
+
+PREFACE.
+
+My motives for publishing this volume of Travels, will be best
+explained by a detail of the circumstances which gave rise to my
+journey to Morocco. In 1805, I was serving in the capacity of
+Physician to His Majesty's Forces, at the Depot Hospital in the Isle
+of Wight; whence, by dexterous management of the Army Medical
+Board[*], I was removed, and placed upon half-pay, in June of that
+year. At this period, it occurred to Mr.  Turnbull, Chairman of the
+Committee of Merchants trading to the Levant, that it would be of
+advantage to the public, were the offices of Garrison Surgeon of
+Gibraltar, and Inspecting Medical Officer of the ships doing
+quarantine, which were then united in the person of Mr. Pym, separated
+and made distinct appointments; and he was pleased to think that, from
+my local knowledge, and other circumstances, I should be a proper
+person to fill the latter of these offices. This was also the opinion
+of His Royal Highness the Duke of Kent, Governor of the garrison.
+Representations were accordingly made on the subject, to the then
+Secretary of State for the War and Colonial Department, Lord
+Castlereagh; and it was so fully understood that the proposition had
+been assented to on his part, that an order was issued from the
+Transport Board, to provide a passage for myself and family to
+Gibraltar. There I waited some months, in the expectation that the
+commission would be sent after me, but in vain. In the mean time, I
+received a communication from Mr. Mattra, British Consul General at
+Tangiers, requesting that I would cross over to Barbary, and attend
+His Excellency the Governor of Larache, First Minister of the Emperor
+of Morocco, then labouring under a dangerous illness. It was on my
+return from this journey, that I found a letter from Mr. Turnbull (See
+Appendix, No. III. p. 227), stating that my old friends of the Medical
+Board had been at their usual work of persecution, and by their
+scandalous misrepresentations to the new Secretary of State for War
+and the Colonies, Mr. Windham, had succeeded in preventing the
+appointment which His Royal Highness the Governor of Gibraltar had
+been graciously pleased to design for me.
+
+During my residence in Barbary it was my good fortune to gain the
+approbation and friendship of the Emperor of Morocco, and of the
+principal Officers of his Court, by which I was enabled to give
+facilities to the procuring of fresh provisions for our Navy, and
+render to my country other services, not strictly in the line of my
+profession.  (See the various documents at the end of Appendix.)
+Having succeeded in restoring the Governor of Larache to health, and
+performed some other cures, acceptable to the Emperor of Morocco, I
+considered the objects for which I had crossed over to Barbary
+accomplished, and returned to Gibraltar, after having received the
+most flattering marks of distinction, both from the Imperial Court,
+and from Lord Collingwood, Commander of the British fleet in the
+Mediterranean.  The letter of the Emperor of Morocco to His Majesty
+(Appendix, No. X. p.  239) is an ample proof of the disposition of
+that prince in my favour.
+
+Finding the principal aim of my voyage to Gibraltar frustrated by the
+machinations of the Medical Junta, whom I have already stated as ever
+active in mischief, I determined to return to England. The letter of
+the Emperor of Morocco to His Majesty, and a general certificate,
+couched in the strongest terms of approbation, and signed by all the
+principal merchants of Gibraltar, I thought were documents, which,
+added to my correspondence with Lord Collingwood, and the officers of
+his fleet, would not fail to have procured me a favourable reception,
+and some attention to my claims.
+
+But the letter of the Emperor of Morocco, as it still remains
+unanswered, I cannot but believe has never been presented to His
+Majesty.  Nay, the pressing solicitations, with which I have since
+been honoured on the part of the Emperor of Morocco, through his
+principal Minister, to return to that country, I have hitherto been
+obliged to delay answering, that I might not, on the one hand, insult,
+by evasive or false replies, a government from which I had experienced
+such friendship and respect; or, on the other hand, be compelled, by a
+true statement, to compromise my own.
+
+The principal design of publishing this account of my journey to the
+Barbary States, is to shew the good policy, on the part of this
+country, of keeping upon terms of strict amity with the government of
+Morocco. The neglect, which, on this occasion, has been evinced of the
+Emperor's letter, I cannot but consider, in a public point of view, as
+extremely reprehensible, independently of the private injury it has
+occasioned to myself.  Whether this neglect arose from the
+misrepresentations of the Army Medical Board, or from those of any
+other persons, I will not pretend to determine; but in any case, a
+most censurable disregard, even of the forms of civility, towards a
+Prince, who, however we may affect to despise his influence in the
+great political scale, has it always in his power materially to
+promote or to impede the interests of this country in the Levant, must
+attach to some quarter or other.
+
+  [*] As the members of that body are expected shortly to be dismissed
+  from their situations, I think it right, lest at any future period
+  injustice should be done to innocent individuals, by confounding
+  them with the guilty, here to state that Sir Lucas Pepys,
+  Bart. Mr. Thomas Keate, and Mr. Francis Knight, Apothecaries, at
+  present compose the body illegally calling themselves the Army
+  Medical Board, whose conduct for a great many years has brought
+  disgrace and disaster on that important department.  For a detail of
+  their conduct, see "An Analytical View of the Medical Department of
+  the British Army, by Charles Maclean, M.D." 8vo. published by
+  Stockdale, Pall Mall.
+
+
+
+CONTENTS.
+
+
+LETTER I.
+
+Inducement for the Journey--Arrive at Tangiers--Its History--
+Situation--Inhabitants--Military--Governor--Fortifications--
+Subterraneous Passage--Socco, or Market--Adjacent Villas--Invited to
+Larache.
+
+LETTER II.
+
+Sketch of the History of Morocco--Road from Tangiers--Simplicity of
+the Peasants--Moors hospitable--Arrive at a Village--The ancient
+Zelis--Public Accommodations--Much infested with Vermin--Arzilla, a
+ruinous walled Town--Arrive at Larache.
+
+LETTER III.
+
+Conducted to the Governor--Medical Hint from his Secretary--Governor
+recovers--Larache--Its Harbour, Shipping, and Inhabitants.
+
+LETTER IV.
+
+Excursion to Mamora, and thence lo Salee--Friendly Reception by the
+Governor of the latter--Rabat--Tower of Hassen--Shella--Mansooria--
+Alcasser--Quiber--Its Socco, or Market-place.
+
+LETTER V.
+
+Leave Larache with an Escort--Curious Custom on returning from
+Mecca--Arrive at Tetuan.
+
+LETTER VI.
+
+Ill Usage of a Lieutenant of the Swiftsure--Disaffection of the
+Moorish Governor towards Great Britain.
+
+LETTER VII.
+
+Sail for Tetuan--Appearance of the Coast--Enter the Boosega
+River--Curious Towers of Defence--Custom-house--Female Dress--Enter
+Tetuan over a Road of unlevelled Rock--Disagreeable Streets--Well
+received by the Governor--Public Markets--Socco--An Auction Market.
+
+LETTER VIII.
+
+Tetuan--The Jews much oppressed there--particularly the
+Females--Costume--Singularity of the Streets in the Jewish
+Town--Ceuta--Would be invaluable to England--Melilla--Summoned to
+visit the Emperor.
+
+LETTER IX.
+
+Journey to Larache--Annual Socco of St. Martin--No Christian permitted
+to witness it--Express Order for that Purpose in the Author's
+Favour--Specimen of native medical Skill--Reception at
+Larache--Complain of the Impositions of Governor Ash-Ash--Comparative
+Tariff--Effect the Renewal of the old Tariff with increasing
+Advantages.
+
+LETTER X.
+
+Depart from Larache with a little Army--Moorish military
+Salute--Numerous Villages--Customary Procession of the
+Inhabitants--Judicial Arrangements--River Beth resembles the Po--Herds
+of Camels--Arrive at Mequinez--French Falsehood again put
+down--Excellent Road from Mequinez--Fertility and Luxuriance of the
+adjacent Country--Procession to the Sanctuary of Sidy
+Edris--Multiplicity of Saints--Ceremony demonstrative of the Emperor's
+Favour--Take possession of my new Residence.
+
+LETTER XI.
+
+Imperial Review of eighty thousand Cavalry--The Palace--Introduction
+to the Emperor--Visit the Seraglio--Beauty of the Sultana--Her
+Indisposition--Her Influence over the Emperor--His Person described.
+
+LETTER XII.
+
+Succession of the Sovereigns from their Founder to the present
+Emperor.
+
+LETTER XIII.
+
+Responsibility of the Governors--Empire beautiful and
+productive--Humane Efforts of the Emperor--Blind Submission to his
+Will--Great Number of Negroes naturalized--The Moors might be truly
+formidable--Emperor's Brother--Fez divided into two
+Parts--Magnificent Mosques--Commercial Privileges--Indignities which
+Christians undergo--Singular Supply of Water--The Imperial
+Gardens--Propensity to
+defraud--Factories--Exports--Costume--Character---Manner of
+Living--Domestic Vermin.
+
+LETTER XIV.
+
+Fez--Debility of the Moors--Mosques--Antiquities, Roman, Carthaginian,
+and Saracen--Storks held in great Veneration--Baths--Bazars--
+Inhabitants--Residence--Menagerie--Marvellous Preservation of a
+Jew--Lions-- Tigers--Leopards--Hyenas.
+
+LETTER XV.
+
+Sudden Departure from Fez--Arrive at Mequinez--Attend the
+Emperor--Melancholy Catastrophe--Expedition against wild
+Beasts--Extensive Palaces--Seraglio--Visit a Haram--Founders of the
+City--A fortified Town--Inhabitants--Jewish Town--Rich Attire of the
+higher Orders--Numerous Market-places--Furniture--Saints
+Houses--Imperial Field Sports--Pack of Greyhounds--Abundance of Game.
+
+LETTER XVI.
+
+Courtship--Marriage--Funerals--Sabbath.
+
+LETTER XVII.
+
+Depart from Morocco--Roads dreadfully infested by Robbers--A Tribe of
+aboriginal Freebooters--Description of Morocco--Filth of the common
+People--Tobacco disallowed--Justice of the Emperor.
+
+LETTER XVIII.
+
+Moorish Character--Form of Devotion--Meals--Revenue--Poll-tax on the
+Jews--Royal Carriages--Ostrich-riding--Public Schools--Watch-dogs.
+
+LETTER XIX.
+
+Face and Produce of the Empire, natural and artificial.
+
+LETTER XX.
+
+Practice of Physic--Astrology--Poetry--Entertainment given by the
+Author to the Moors--Their Astonishment at the Effects of Electricity.
+
+LETTER XXI.
+
+Prevalent Diseases--Abuse of Stimulants--Medicinal
+Well--Sorcery--Hydrophobia.
+
+LETTER XXII.
+
+Depart for Gibraltar--Oppressive Heat--Robbers--Arrive at
+Larache--Affray of some English Sailors--Letter from the Governor to
+Lord Collingwood.
+
+LETTER XXIII.
+
+Embark for Gibraltar--Precautionary Hints.
+
+
+APPENDIX.
+
+No. I.--Letter from J. Turnbull, Esq. General Chairman of the
+Merchants trading to the Mediterranean, recommending Dr. Buffa for a
+civil medical Appointment at Gibraltar.--Dated 5th August 1805.
+
+No. II.--Letter from the Secretary of the Transport Board, informing
+Dr. Buffa that a Passage in one of His Majesty's Transports to
+Gibraltar was ordered for him and his Family.
+
+No. III.--Extract of a Letter from John Turnbull, Esq. Chairman of the
+Committee of Merchants trading to the Levant, &c. to Dr.  Buffa.
+
+No. IV.--Extract of a Letter from John Ross, Esq. Acting Consul
+General at Tangiers, to Dr. Buffa.
+
+No V.--Letter sent by a Courier from the Court of Morocco to J. Ross,
+Esq. by Permission of His Imperial Majesty's First Minister, after
+Dr. Buffa's having finally settled the Difference excited at that Time
+by the French Party in Barbary, between that Country and Great
+Britain.
+
+No. VI.--Letter from Captain Stewart, of His Majesty's Ship Seahorse,
+to the Government of Morocco, for Supplies; which Dr. Buffa was
+directed to answer, after having procured the said Supplies without
+any Charge.
+
+No. VII.--Letter from Admiral the Right Hon.  Lord Collingwood, to the
+Government of Morocco, in answer to Dr. Buffa's Official Letter to
+Captain Stewart, touching on various public Matters.
+
+No. VIII.--An Official Letter written by Dr.  Buffa, by particular
+Direction of the Emperor of Morocco, in answer to a Letter of Lord
+Collingwood of the 8th July 1806, giving his Lordship Information of
+the happy Termination of the Negotiations which Dr. Buffa carried on,
+and which all the Representations of Mr. Ross to that Court were
+unable to effect; which gave rise to a very long and expensive
+Correspondence between Mr. Ross and Dr. Buffa, Long carried on by
+constant Couriers.
+
+No. IX.--Letter written by Command of the Emperor of Morocco, to Lord
+Collingwood, in favour of Dr. Buffa.
+
+No. X.--Translation of a Letter from the Emperor of Morocco to the
+King. Referred to in the Petition.
+
+Nos. XI. and XII.--Copies of two Letters received from the Government
+bf Morocco, to which Dr. Buffa has hitherto been unable to reply.
+
+
+
+
+
+TRAVELS,
+
+&c.
+
+
+
+LETTER I.
+
+Inducement for the Journey--Arrive at Tangiers--Its History--
+Situation--Inhabitants--Military--Governor--Fortifications--
+Subterraneous Passage--Socco, or Market--Adjacent Villas--Invited to
+Larache.
+
+
+Tangiers, January 12th, 1806.
+
+I have long felt very desirous to visit a country, which,
+notwithstanding the many revolutions it has undergone, and the
+enlightened characters of its conquerors, is regarded as still
+immersed in a degree of barbarism almost unparalleled. It appeared to
+me next to impossible that a nation so contiguous to Europe, with
+which it has for centuries maintained a constant intercourse, could
+have remained in a state of such profound ignorance.
+
+Impressed with these ideas, I readily embraced the offer of a friend
+to accompany him from Gibraltar to this place, intending to travel
+further up the country, should I meet with sufficient inducement from
+the result of my observations here. We landed on the first of this
+month, and the intermediate time I have employed in obtaining
+information relative to the town of Tangiers from the earliest
+tradition to the present time. As the particulars I have collected do
+not appear devoid of Interest, I flatter myself, you will be gratified
+that I should have made them the subject of a letter.
+
+This town, which by the ancients was called _Tingis_, or Tingir, and
+appears to have been the metropolis of the _Western Mauritania_, or
+Tingitania, as it was named, to distinguish it from _Mauritania
+Cæsariensis_; according to Pliny and others, was first founded
+ed fay _Antæus_ (about a thousand years before Christ), the
+same who was afterwards conquered and slain by _Hercules_. The giant
+is supposed to have been buried here: and the report of Plutarch, that
+his tomb was opened by Sertorius, and a corpse sixty cubits or more in
+length, taken out of it, confirms the idea.  But according to others,
+_Tingis_, or the present _Tangiers_, lays claim to a more ancient
+founder than _Antæus_. Procopius mentions, that in his time
+were standing two pillars of white stone, upon which were inscribed in
+the Phoenician characters the following words: _"We are the Canaanites
+who fed from Joshua, the son of Nun."_
+
+A colony of Carthaginians settled here, and it is most probable that a
+flourishing trade was carried on by them, as the situation of Tangiers
+is extremely well adapted for that purpose. Indeed the name _Tingis_,
+in the language of the Phoenicians and Carthaginians, signifies an
+_emporium_. When the Mauritaniæ became subject to the Romans,
+in the reign of Julius Cæsar, Bocchus, the son-in-law of
+Jugurtha, having defeated Bogud, the king of _Mauritania Tingitania_,
+he became possessed of that country, and Augustus, or, as some say,
+Octavius, confirmed this acquisition to him; and the inhabitants of
+_Tingis_ were allowed the privileges of Roman citizens.
+
+I cannot discover any thing further remarkable of Tangiers from the
+time it became a Roman colony, and during the period it was possessed
+by the Saracens, till the latter end of the fourteenth century, when
+it was taken by the Portuguese, who erected fortifications and other
+public works. It continued in their possession for nearly two
+centuries; and was at length given to our King, Charles the Second, as
+part of the dowry of his consort Catharine, We did not keep it long;
+for, owing to the little harmony that subsisted between that Monarch
+and his Parliament, it was ceded to the Moors in 1684, after we had
+blown up all the fortifications, and utterly destroyed the
+harbour. Since that event, it seems to have been gradually dwindling
+into its present insignificance.
+
+I have before observed, that the situation of Tangiers is well adapted
+to the purposes of commerce, being about two miles within the Straits
+of Gibraltar (or Hercules); but the ruins of the fortifications and
+harbour have rendered the anchorage in the bay of Tangiers very
+unsafe. This is a great obstacle to trade; very little is carried on
+there at present, and that little is by a few Jews, and lately, by a
+Spanish merchant of the name of Don Pedro.
+
+The town being built on the declivity of that high tract of land
+called Cape Spartel (the Cape _Cottes_ or _Ampelusian_ of the
+ancients), it is seen at a great distance; but on entering the bay, it
+appears to the best advantage.  It is defended by two martello towers,
+a castle, and a large battery; but I am confident that it could not
+withstand the attack of a few English frigates, and that such a force
+from the bay might destroy the town in the space of a few
+hours. Notwithstanding the vicissitudes to which this place has been
+exposed, it still possesses a superiority over the other towns in the
+empire of Morocco; it is the capital of the kingdom, and the residence
+of the Consuls General of the powers in amity with his Imperial
+Majesty. The houses of these foreign residents are constructed with
+great taste in the European style; the habitations of the Moors are
+neat; the air is pure and salubrious; the supply of excellent water,
+abundant; and the market cheap and plentiful.  This combination of
+advantages renders Tangiers, in many points of view, an eligible
+residence. The European society, which consists almost solely of the
+families of the foreign consuls, is pleasant and agreable, The
+adjacent country is beautifully romantic; and the opposite coast and
+bay present a most delightful prospect. The Moorish inhabitants are
+all soldiers, very poor, and entirely subject to the arbitrary will of
+the Emperor.  It is capable of furnishing, at a moment's warning,
+three thousand cavalry, and two thousand infantry and artillery-men;
+but these troops are badly trained, and without order or discipline: I
+attended their evening parade yesterday, and was truly diverted with
+the sorry appearance of their best militia-men, who were to mount
+guard for the night.  These Moorish soldiers are remarkably addicted
+to cheating. It is probably owing to their excessive indolence, which
+prevents them from making the usual exertions for obtaining a
+livelihood, and induces them to adopt the more expeditious mode of
+extorting from strangers the means of subsistence; but as they are not
+often presented with an object of prey, they continually labour
+against the pressure of extreme poverty. Tangiers is under the
+government of Sidy Ash-Ash; who resides at Tetuan. He is by no means
+partial to the English, but devoted to France; influenced by French
+principles, and French interest. Excepting a few small armed vessels,
+fitted out for piracy, there is no shipping in the harbour. I have
+observed none for the purpose of commerce; all their goods are
+exported in foreign bottoms; and when they bring in a prize, the
+vessel remains unsold for a considerable length of time, and it is
+always disposed of to a foreign merchant.
+
+Several remains of the European fortifications are yet visible; the
+Moors have repaired some, among which the western bastions still form
+a principal part of the strength of the place. The castle, which
+appears to have been built before the time of the Portuguese, stands
+in a commanding position upon one of the most prominent rocks of this
+coast. By an order of the Emperor, all the civil and military officers
+of this town are obliged to reside in it.
+
+From this castle is a subterraneous passage containing many curious
+remnants of antiquity.  On each side of the passage are ruinous
+apartments, which we may readily suppose to have been designed as
+places for the concealment of treasures, or receptacles for the
+dead. From the fragments of some urns I have collected, upon which are
+to be traced parts of inscriptions in the Punic character, I imagine
+this subterraneous place to have been built by the Carthaginians, for
+one or both of those purposes. It extends from the castle to several
+miles without the gates of the town; whence we may likewise infer,
+that it served as a means of escape in case of a sudden insurrection,
+or siege. Here are several superb mosques and commodious public baths.
+
+The _Socco_, or market, is held twice a week (on Sunday and
+Wednesday), in a spacious sandy square, outside of the western gate,
+whereto the peasants bring all kinds of provisions, and other
+necessaries, which are sold at very low rates. Fish and every sort of
+wild fowl are brought in daily, and sold very cheap. Among the
+Consuls' villas, some of which are built near the spot where the
+_Socco_ is held, that of the Swedish Consul is the most worthy of
+notice. The pleasure-ground is laid out with great taste in orange
+groves; the gardens abound in fruit-trees, and the Consul has made a
+curious botanical collection.
+
+I have just been interrupted by Mr. Matra, our Consul. He called to
+request me to go up to Larache, to attend the Governor, who is
+dangerously ill, and has sent here for an English physician. I
+intended to have continued a brief account of this empire, from the
+time it became a Roman province to the introduction of Mahometanism;
+also by what means the Moors became mixed with Arabs: but I must
+reserve this for the next opportunity.
+
+
+
+
+LETTER II.
+
+_Sketch of the History of Morocco--Road from Tangiers--Simplicity of
+the Peasants--Moors hospitable--Arrive at a Village--The ancient
+Zelis--Public Accommodations--Much infested with Vermin--Arzilla, a
+ruinous walled Town--Arrive at Larache_.
+
+
+Larache, January 1806.
+
+Before I proceed to give you the particulars of my journey to this
+place, I shall fulfil tho promise I made you in my last.
+
+The present empire of Morocco is properly the _Mauritania Tingitania_
+of the Romans, as the _Mauritania Cæsariensis_ comprised
+Algiers, Tripoli, and Tunis; and was so called from the Emperor
+Claudius.  _Tingitania_ was not decidedly reduced to a Roman province
+till after the death of _Bocchus_.  Augustus afterwards gave the two
+Mauritanias, and a part of _Getulia_, to the younger _Juba_, as a
+remuneration for the loss of his father's kingdom
+(_Numidia_). _Ptolemy_, his son, by _Cleopatra_ (daughter of _Antony_
+and _Cleopatra_), succeeded him. In his reign, the Moors of this
+country were induced to revolt by a Numidian named _Tacfarinas_, who
+had served in the Roman army, and who, at the head of a set of
+barbarians accustomed to every species of robbery, assisted the revolt
+he had excited.
+
+After a variety of successes and defeats, they were completely routed
+by _Dolabella_, the Roman General, and a body of Mauritanians sent to
+his assistance by _Ptolemy_, This conquest contributed to establish
+peace for a short time in these provinces; but at the death of
+_Ptolemy_ (who was treacherously cut off by _Caius_), they again
+revolted, when _Claudius_ first fixed a Roman army in _Mauritania_.
+His generals, though not without difficulty, succeeded in restoring
+tranquillity, which scarcely met with any interruption till the latter
+end of the fifth century, when the declining state of the Roman power
+favoured another revolt, in which the Moors entirely shook off the
+yoke of the Romans, assisted by the Vandals, under _Genseric_, who
+overran Africa, and obtained possession of most of the maritime
+towns. The Vandals were expelled in the seventh century by the
+Saracens, under the Caliphs of Bagdad, a ferocious and warlike race of
+Arabs, who, from conquest to conquest, had extended and removed their
+seat of government from Medina to the city of Damascus; thence to
+_Cufa_, and from the latter place to _Bagdad_; where they established
+their Caliphate authority.
+
+Flushed with their success, and burning with the hopes of plunder, in
+the conquest of countries more fertile and richer, but less warlike
+than their own, they extended their arms as far as the western
+_Mauritania_. This country then remained for some time subject to the
+Caliphs of Bagdad, and was governed by their lieutenants, a set of
+cruel, arbitrary, and rapacious men.
+
+The distance from the seat of government, and the oppressive manner in
+which the Caliphs ruled, excited universal commotion in this part, and
+considerably diminished their authority. Their generals, far from
+suppressing, openly encouraged these tumults, and severally aspired to
+the sovereignty. In the midst of these intestine broils, _Edris_, a
+descendant of Mahomet, fled into Mauritania, to avoid the persecutions
+of the Caliph _Abdallah_, who, to ensure the succession to his own
+family, had caused the kinsmen of _Edris_ to be put to death. _Edris_
+first settled in a mountain, between Fez and Mequinez, called
+_Zaaron_, where he soon gained the confidence of the Moors. He
+preached the doctrine of Mahomet, and, by degrees, succeeded in
+establishing it throughout the country.  These people, fond of
+novelty, and extremely susceptible of fanaticism, readily embraced a
+faith so well suited to their manners and inclinations. They elected
+him their chief, and invested him with supreme power; which he
+employed in reducing the Arab generals.  From that time, the
+characters of the Moors and Arabs gradually blended, so that in
+after-ages, among the generality of them, scarcely any distinction can
+be traced.
+
+As it is foreign to my present purpose to carry you farther into the
+ancient history of this country, I shall proceed to give you tho
+particulars of my journey to this town. I left Tangiers, escorted by a
+guard, consisting of a serjeant and six horsemen, accompanied by an
+interpreter, and my few servants. We rode for several hours,
+alternately through gardens and woods: the former full of fruit-trees;
+such as orange, lemon, fig, pomegranate, apple, pear, and cherry
+trees.  The scene became every moment more interesting.  As we
+advanced, the country assumed a variety almost indescribable. The
+contrast was every where infinitely striking.  At one instant the eye
+was presented with fine corn-fields, meadows, and high hills; nay,
+mountains, cultivated to the very summits, are covered with immense
+flocks of sheep, and herds of cattle; while the vallies conveyed to
+the imagination an idea of the fertile plains of Arcadia; the simple
+manners of the Moors, who tend these flocks and herds, still further
+inducing one to believe them the happy, peaceful people, the poets
+feign the Arcadian swains to have been. On the other hand are huge
+mountains, bleak and barren, inaccessible to man, and scarcely
+affording food to the straggling wild goats that venture to browse on
+them.
+
+There is a degree of simplicity in the behaviour of the peasants, so
+widely different from these who inhabit the towns, that it is
+impossible to suppose them the same race of men. From the great
+affinity between the manners and customs of these country Moors, and
+the _Scenite Arabs_, the inhabitants of _Arabia Deserta_, we may
+naturally infer that they must have derived those habits from the
+latter.
+
+They reside in villages composed of tents to the number of forty or
+fifty, which they remove at pleasure; when the pasture fails in one
+valley, they strike their tents, and seek another, where they remain
+till the same necessity impels them to quit that in its turn.  This
+was precisely the custom of the _Arabes Scenitæ_. The vast
+plains of sand with which _Arabia Deserta_ abounds, were occasionally
+interspersed with fertile spots, which appeared like little
+islands. These we're rendered extremely delightful by fountains,
+rivulets, palm-trees, and most excellent fruit.  The Arabs, with their
+flocks, encamped on some of them, and when they had consumed every
+thing there, they retired to others.  Their descendants, the present
+_Bedoweens_, continue the practice to this day. The name given to this
+kind of village is the same as that of the Arabs just mentioned, which
+is _Dow-war, or Hbyma_.
+
+The families of the Moorish peasants appear to be very numerous, as I
+observed that each tent was quite full. They flocked out as I passed,
+to gratify their curiosity in seeing a _Massarane_ (for so they
+denominate a Christian). Yet, notwithstanding their antipathy to all
+Christians, I was received with the greatest hospitality by these
+followers of Mahomet. They seemed to vie with each other in presenting
+the bowl of butter-milk, which they consider as a great delicacy, and.
+indeed, an offering of peace.
+
+In the centre of a plain, about eight hours journey from Tangiers, we
+halted, and refreshed ourselves. After allowing my serjeant and guard
+to perform their ablutions, and say their prayers, we proceeded on our
+journey, and arrived, very late in the evening, at a village on the
+banks of a large river, which, from its situation, I imagine to be the
+_Zelis_, or _Zelia_, of the ancients, and which, by its annual
+inundation, fertilizes and enriches the country to such a degree,
+that, with very little labour, it produces abundant crops of all kinds
+of grain, particularly of wheat and barley.
+
+A number of rivulets have their source in those mountains, which,
+joining others in their course, at length form pretty considerable
+rivers; and these, meeting with obstacles from the projecting rocks
+over which they pass, produce most beautiful natural cascades, which,
+precipitating themselves into the plains, preserve so great a moisture
+in the soil, that it is covered with a continual verdure.
+
+There are no public inns for the accommodation of travellers on the
+road; but the Emperor has caused stone buildings to be erected, at
+certain distances, as substitutes. These buildings are not so good as
+many of the stables in England; they resemble the sheds, made, by
+farmers, to-give shelter to their cattle in tempestuous weather: yet,
+miserable as they were, I was glad to accept the offer of a night's
+lodging in one of them, not having provided myself with a tent.
+
+The Cadi of the village conducted us to this delectable abode, which
+we found already occupied by six Moorish wanderers, who, in the
+Emperor's name, were ordered to turn out, and make room for me and my
+suite. Supper was brought me by the Cadi; it consisted, of boiled rice
+and milk, and some fresh-water fish, tolerably well dressed.  When I
+had partaken of this homely repast, I prepared myself for rest, of
+which I stood in great need from the fatigues of the day; but, alas!
+my evil genius had determined otherwise; it seemed as if all the fleas
+and bugs in His Imperial Majesty's dominions had been collected, to
+prevent my closing my eyes; or it was, possibly, a legacy bequeathed,
+me by my predecessors.  Be that as it may, I found them such very
+troublesome companions, that I preferred the night air to the prospect
+of being devoured before morning; I therefore wrapped myself up in a
+thick blanket, and slept, unmolested, in the open air, till after
+daybreak, when I found myself sufficiently refreshed to pursue my
+journey.  Crossing the river, we passed through a ruinous walled town,
+called _Arzilla_, commanded by an Alcaid, under the Governor of
+Larache. This, which is a maritime town, lies at the mouth of the
+above river, and was, according to Strabo, Pliny, and others, a
+_Phoenician colony_; it was afterwards successively in the hands of
+the Romans, Vandals, Arabs, and occupied by _Aphonso_, King of
+Portugal, surnamed the _African_. It was abandoned by the Portuguese
+in 1471, when it fell under the power of the kings of Morocco.
+
+I observed several ruins in this town and its vicinity, but could not
+stay to inspect them, It is inhabited by Moors and Jews, and is
+surrounded by gardens abounding with lemon, orange, and grape
+trees. On the evening of the same day we reached this place.  I shall
+defer the account of my reception here, and the state in which I found
+the Governor, till my next.
+
+
+
+
+LETTER III.
+
+Conducted to the Governor--Medical Hint from his Secretary--Governor
+recovers--Larache--Its Harbour, Shipping, and Inhabitants.
+
+
+Larache, February 1806.
+
+On our arrival at this place, we were met, at the gates of the
+garrison, by the Governor's public Secretary, who conducted us to a
+house belonging to Mr. Matra, and afterwards accompanied me to the
+castle to visit my patient.  On our way thither I requested the
+Secretary to give me his opinion concerning the present state of the
+Governor's health; I also asked how he had been accustomed to live,
+and how long he had been confined to his bed. "What do you mean," said
+he, "by asking such foolish questions? you are not a _tweeb_" (the
+name for a physician). I told him that I was. He continued: "That must
+be determined by your success or failure; if you succeed, you will for
+ever establish your fame in Barbary; you will be esteemed and
+respected by all the Moors; but, if you fail, and His Excellency
+should die under your hands, I would then advise you to make your
+escape as quickly and as privately as possible, and never to attempt
+to revisit this country." I confessed the weight of the encouragement
+and threats which he held out; and inquiring whether he meant to
+insinuate, that if the Governor died I should suffer death? and
+whether they always punished their tweebs thus when they dispatched
+any of their patients to the other world? he rejoined, "Not exactly;
+but consider, you are a Massarene, which makes a great difference."  I
+then intimated that I would decline having any thing to do with his
+master, and would return to Gibraltar. "You do not think of such a
+thing!" he exclaimed; "it would be unworthy of your character and
+situation.  But come; I will give you a few salutary hints, which may
+be of service to you; the rest you will discover at the bed-side, and
+on feeling the pulse of your patient, I wish you may succeed in
+recovering him; but I am afraid he is going, and that no tweeb on
+earth can save him."
+
+He then informed me that His Excellency had been attended, for some
+days past, by a celebrated tweeb, who stood high in the public
+estimation; that he had pronounced the Governor's disease incurable,
+and he had, bled him so copiously, and so repeatedly, that "I verily
+believe," added the Secretary, "he has not a single drop of blood left
+in his veins; I would therefore advise you to administer some good
+cordials, and also some nourishment, to restore his lost vigour." By
+this time we had reached the castle. I found the Governor in a
+situation truly deplorable.  He had been bled, as the Secretary
+described, _ad deliquium_, and reduced so low, that it was with great
+difficulty I could hear what he was desirous of explaining to me.
+
+His body was covered all over with purple spots, and had every
+concomitant symptom of the blood approaching to a putrescent
+dissolution, I afforded him all the assistance in my power the same
+evening; and early the next morning, when I visited him, I found him
+somewhat easier; the next day better; and thus progressively mending;
+till yesterday he was sufficiently recovered to venture on horseback,
+and I trust he will, ultimately, be perfectly restored to health and
+spirits.  He is about forty years of age, of a genteel appearance,
+exceedingly well informed, and reputed to be the most sensible officer
+in His Imperial Majesty's service, perfectly, _au fait_ in the
+intrigues and politics of the Cabinet of St. Cloud, and other nations,
+He has always been, and is still, a very steady friend to the English,
+
+During my stay here so many poor wretches applied for advice and
+medical assistance, that I have completely exhausted my stock of
+medicines, and I am, in consequence of this, obliged to decline the
+Emperor's invitation to his court. I shall return to Gibraltar for a
+supply, and shall then pay him a visit at Fez.
+
+Larache is supposed to be the famous _Lixus_, or _Lixos_, of the
+ancients, and, consequently, was in great reputation in the earliest
+ages, Pliny asserts, that the giant _Antæus_ occasionally
+resided here; and further adds, that Hercules vanquished him in this
+neighbourhood, as he supposes the gardens of the Hesperides to have
+been not far off. This I think very probable, as the Arabic name of
+this town is _El Arais_, signifying a place abounding in gardens;
+which is still the case. The vicinity of it is, indeed, rendered
+extremely delightful by the number of gardens.  Pliny also makes the
+river Lixos (upon the banks of which the town stood), by its winding
+course, to resemble a serpent, or dragon, from which he intimates that
+this river gave rise to the fable of the Dragon guarding the golden
+apples of the _Hesperides_.  Be that as it may, the situation of the
+present Larache gives great probability to the supposition of its
+being the reputed _Lixus_ of the ancients. The learned Aldrete affirms
+the word _Lixos_ be derived from לחישו, _Lachisu_, or נה־אלחישו,
+_Nahara Lachisu_, signifying _enchantment_, or the _enchanted
+river_. He observes, that the town of Lixos was situated near the
+banks of a river of the same name; and that the inhabitants of this
+country were supposed to possess uncommon skill in sorcery and magic.
+
+Many wonderful things have been related of _Antæus_, by various
+authors, in his two residences of _Tingis_ and _Lixos_. Pliny mentions
+a Roman colony having been settled here by _Claudius_; and I should
+judge this statement to be perfectly correct, from the number of Roman
+ruins observable in and near the town. It was in the possession of the
+Spaniards in 1610, but was retaken by the Moors before the
+commencement of the eighteenth century.
+
+It is surrounded by good bastions and other works; some of which were
+constructed by the Spaniards, and the rest by the Moors. It is
+encompassed by deep trenches, with sluices to fill them with water
+from the river, The streets of this town are narrow and dirty, paved
+with large irregular stones, and consisting of abrupt ascents and
+descents, which render them unsafe to pass through on horseback.
+
+Near the castle, at the extremity of the cape, facing the Atlantic, is
+an oblong square, surrounded by a piazza, supported by colonnades,
+where the shops of the merchants are situated, and where the market
+also is held.  The cattle-market is kept in an extensive plain, to
+which you pass through a crooked way, out of the western
+gate. Thursday is the market-day.
+
+Fresh water is extremely scarce, and the inhabitants are sometimes
+greatly distressed for want of it. Larache is a seat of government,
+and contains a spacious inland harbour; but the entrance is dangerous
+from the badness of its bar, which might, however, be removed with
+little trouble and expense, so as to render the harbour very
+commodious for shipping,
+
+The harbour contains a portion of the Emperor's maritime force, which
+consists of four frigates, a brig, and a sloop of war, in very
+tolerable condition. This little fleet is commanded by an admiral, and
+sails every year in the month of May; when it cruizes about during the
+summer, picking up a few straggling vessels, and returns here to
+winter; in which time the sailors are twice a week exercised at the
+great guns. This town is now entirely occupied by soldiers and
+sailors, and their respective families. It did contain about two
+thousand Jews, whose business it was to purchase hides, wool, and wax,
+for several commercial houses established at Tetuan; but these poor
+people were obliged to leave this garrison, and take refuge in the
+neighbouring mountains, from a sudden and irrevocable decree of the
+Emperor, on account of their having sold some _aguardiente_ to the
+sailors, which occasioned a great fight, that was attended with the
+loss of three Moors.
+
+I have just received intelligence of the death of Mr. Matra; I am
+extremely sorry for this event, as, in him, we have lost a very
+powerful advocate at the court of Morocco: but it is no more than I
+expected, from the state in which I left him at Tangiers.
+
+
+
+
+LETTER IV.
+
+Excursion to Mamora, and thence to Salee--Friendly Reception by the
+Governor of the latter--Rabat--Tower of Hassen--Shella--
+Mansooria--Alcasser-- Quiber--Its Socco, or Marketplace.
+
+
+Larache, 1805.
+
+To escape from the importunities of those poor creatures who continued
+to pester me for medicines with which I could not supply them, I
+availed myself of the convalescent state of the Governor, and obtained
+his permission to make a short excursion to the nearest seaport towns
+on the western coast.  Escorted as before, I directed my way towards
+Mamora, a fortress about sixty miles off.
+
+I halted frequently to observe the face of, the country, and could not
+forbear lamenting the little knowledge I possess in the art of
+drawing; indeed, I never had more reason to regret having neglected it
+than now, as it would have enabled me to present you with some very
+interesting views, to which my pen cannot do justice.
+
+The beautiful intermixture of lakes, forests, and green vallies,
+forming most delightful landscapes, brought to my recollection those
+scenes I have so often contemplated, in my youthful days, on the
+borders of Switzerland.  The lakes abound with all kinds of
+water-fowls, and fine eels; and are surrounded by villages,
+sanctuaries, and holy houses; the latter occupied by the descendants
+of the ancient _Maraboots_, who are held in the highest veneration by
+the Moors, and whose habitations are considered as sacred asylums,
+which are never violated, either by the civil or military power.
+
+We ascended an eminence, upon which stands one of their most
+celebrated sanctuaries, built in the form of a pavilion, with four
+arched folding-doors, in the Gothic style, covered with varnished
+tiles of various colours, and embellished with curious Arabic
+characters. I was eagerly approaching, at the head of my little party,
+to gratify my curiosity, when a shower of stones, from the holy
+inhabitants of the neighbouring huts and tents, compelled me to
+desist; and after a retreat of one hundred yards, I sat down to
+refresh myself undisturbed.
+
+From this hill, however, I had a better opportunity of surveying the
+beauties of the adjacent lands, which are very productive; and also to
+observe the windings of the river _Seboo_, which, taking its source in
+the neighbourhood of Fez, forms a junction with the river _Beth_, and
+falls into the Atlantic Ocean.
+
+After journeying about a league, we crossed this river in a
+ferry-boat, and in a short time reached the fort of _Mamora_, which
+lies about two miles to the south of the river. This fort, after
+having been demolished by the Moors, was rebuilt by the Spaniards in
+1604, and taken by Muley Ishmael in 1681. It is commanded by an
+Alcaid, and inhabited by about forty or fifty families, who gain a
+livelihood by fishing for shads and eels; with which they supply the
+adjoining country during the winter season.
+
+We rested at this place, and feasted upon fried eels, which I found
+equal to those caught in the Thames. From _Mamora_ we proceeded to
+_Salee_ another maritime town, situated in the province of
+_Ben-hassen_, and at the mouth of the river _Salee_, which is formed
+by the junction of two small rivers.  The Governor of that place being
+an intimate friend of my patient, I was most kindly and hospitably
+received by him; and elegantly entertained in one of his gardens,
+which are well laid out, and ornamented with several fountains playing
+into marble basins, as well as by several delightful streams of water.
+
+Salee is a walled town, strongly defended by a large battery, mounting
+twenty-four pieces of heavy ordnance, and a redoubt which protects the
+mouth of the river. It contains about five hundred regular troops,
+three thousand militia-men, five hundred sailors, and a number of
+Moorish merchants and Jews. To the north of this garrison is a small
+town, in a ruinous state, inhabited by a few negro families. I was
+told it was built by Muley Ishmael for the accommodation of his
+favourite black troops. To the south, and on the opposite side of the
+river _Salee_, is the maritime city of _Rabat_, commanded by a black
+chief, and garrisoned with black soldiers.
+
+It is defended by a fort and strong batteries, adequate to prevent a
+hostile landing.  It contains several ruins of importance; among the
+most conspicuous of which are those of a large mosque, and the famous
+castle built by _Almansor_ the _Invincible_, together with a superb
+square tower; which latter is still in a tolerable state of
+preservation, and is called the tower of _Hassen_. This tower is about
+two hundred feet in height, strongly built with cut stone, and most
+curiously decorated with Arabic characters. It contains a staircase of
+easy ascent to the top, whence I had a most extensive prospect of the
+Atlantic Ocean, where vessels are descried sailing at an immense
+distance.
+
+The walls of Rabat are nearly two miles in circumference, and
+fortified by several square towers. Exclusive of its regular garrison,
+it contains four thousand militia-men, and about fifteen hundred
+sailors, besides several Moorish merchants and Jews; which latter live
+in a separate quarter.
+
+This town, as well as Salee, is admirably calculated for trade,
+capable of furnishing foreign markets with large quantities of wool,
+leather, wax, and other important commodities.  These contiguous
+cities are surrounded by gardens, watered by plentiful streams, which
+are artificially conveyed from a neighbouring spring, that takes its
+rise in a valley called _Tamura_, to the south of Rabat, and which
+also supplies all the houses of the two towns with fresh water.
+
+Both places contain docks for building vessels, and several small
+corvettes in the Emperor's service winter in these harbours: but the
+roads, like those of Larache, are only to be frequented from the
+beginning of April to the end of September, on account of the shifting
+of the sand, which accumulates on the wind blowing from the
+south-west, when the bar is rendered unsafe for vessels to pass.  Too
+great attention cannot be paid by commanders or masters of ships, on
+anchoring there, as a great number of anchors have been lately lost,
+and many vessels stranded.
+
+Curiosity prompted me to inspect a small ruinous town to the east of
+_Rabat_, named _Shella_, supposed to have been built by the
+_Carthaginians_: but my approach was rudely prevented by the
+inhabitants; no Christian, nor even Jew, being suffered to enter, on
+account of its containing several tombs of their most celebrated
+saints, while in fact it is only a sacred asylum for malefactors, and
+all the rogues of the country.
+
+
+To the south, and about eight leagues from _Rabat_, in a sandy and
+almost desert place, is a castle, in a most dilapidated state, called
+_Mensooria_, which was erected by _Jacob Al__mansor_, for the
+accommodation of travellers, and is still resorted to by the trading
+Moors and Jews, as a refuge at night from the attacks of robbers.
+
+Conceiving it rather hazardous to penetrate further in useless
+researches, I returned to this place, greatly chagrined at having been
+foiled in my attempts to explore the remains of antiquities in
+_Shella_, and other places. I assure you, my disappointment was not
+owing to the want either of perseverance or resolution, but the
+serjeant of my guard was an ignorant bigot, and a great coward,
+therefore unwilling and unable to protect, or share any danger with
+me. On my return here, I dismissed him, and obtained another serjeant,
+and a new guard, from the Governor, who caused my dismissed serjeant
+to be seized; and ordered him the _pallo_; but, at my intercession, he
+was pardoned, upon his promising for the future to evince a more
+soldierlike conduct, when summoned on duty.
+
+The town of _Alcasser-Quiber_ being only three leagues from this
+place, I also went thither, to see the _Socco_, which is held once a
+week, and is frequented by a vast number of the inhabitants of the
+neighbouring mountains, who carry their produce, consisting of cattle,
+fowls, eggs, butter, soft cheese, and large quantities of wool, hides,
+and wax.
+
+This city lies to the eastward of Larache, on the banks of the river
+_Luxos_, and is separated from the town of _Arzilla_ by alternate
+vallies and plains, amongst which some remains of redoubts,
+apparently, for the protection and defence of camps, are to be seen,
+and near which that unfortunate battle was fought in 1578, wherein
+_Don Sebastian_, King of Portugal, lost both his army and his life.
+
+_Alcasser-Quiber_ is a place of some note, carrying on an extensive
+and profitable commerce with Tetuan and other places. The town and its
+environs suffer greatly by the occasional overflowing of the river
+Luxos, which might however easily be remedied; but the Moors have no
+notion of altering things; therefore, without endeavouring to secure
+themselves from a recurrence of such disasters, they allow their
+houses to be filled with water, and themselves to be, not
+unfrequently, washed out of them.
+
+This town contains upwards of fifteen hundred families, exclusive of
+six hundred Jews, whose quarter is distinct from the Moors. It is
+commanded by an Alcaid, subject to the authority of the Governor of
+Larache, and ranks among the principal cities of the empire of
+Morocco.
+
+LETTER V.
+
+
+_Leave Larache with an Escort--Curious Custom on returning from
+Mecca--Arrive at Tetuan_.
+
+Tetuan.
+
+His Excellency the Governor of Larache being perfectly recovered, I
+took my departure from that city. For the sake of novelty, I proposed
+returning to Gibraltar, by this route, rather than by Tangiers. I
+obtained a letter of recommendation to _Sidy Ash-Ash_, and was
+accompanied by a strong guard, provided with a tent, and all other
+necessaries for the journey.
+
+On my way hither, I was highly entertained by the Serjeant of the
+guard. This man had not long returned from Mecca and Upper Egypt. He
+spoke Italian tolerably well, was full of strange notions, and
+considered himself quite a superior genius. He told me, that he
+expected to be promoted in a very short time, and asked me, whether I
+were present at his public entry into the garrison of Larache, on his
+return from the sanctuary of Mecca. I smiled, and answered him in the
+affirmative. He asked me, why I smiled?  "At the novelty of the
+exhibition," I replied, "in carrying you to all the mosques, and
+afterwards in escorting you in state to your humble habitation."--"It
+is but too often the practice," rejoined he, "of petulant infidels to
+ridicule us, in the exercise of pious customs and religious duties."
+Then spurring his horse, he muttered something abusive, which I
+pretended not to hear. However, I found no great difficulty in
+appeasing the pious and sanctified serjeant. In short, I dispelled all
+his glooms and ill humours, and drowned his scruples, in a cup of port
+wine. It is customary among the Moors, when any of them return from
+the pilgrimage of Mecca, to go out in great procession to meet the
+devout pilgrim, whom some of them carry on their shoulders with great
+solemnity through the town and to his own house, where he sits in
+state for three days, receiving visits and donations from all classes
+of people, who flock with the greatest eagerness to obtain a sight of
+him. The conversation was insensibly renewed, and he told me, that of
+a company of fifteen pilgrims, who set out for the holy city of Mecca,
+he was the sole survivor, the others having all perished in the
+deserts. He was the only favoured and true believer that was permitted
+to visit the holy sepulchre. He added: "As the dangers attending the
+pilgrimage are great and various, does not the happy being, who
+returns safe to his native place, deserve the honours and compliments
+paid him, for his great perseverance and patience in such a dangerous
+undertaking, the success of which is the result of his innate
+rectitude?" I gave him to understand that he had made the case
+clear. "The French," he continued, "had a design upon the treasures of
+Mecca." I agreed that they certainly had; and asked him, by what power
+he thought the French army was prevented from possessing itself of
+Mecca. "Unquestionably," rejoined he, "by the invincible and invisible
+power of our Prophet." In reply to my intimation that it was the
+British arms which defeated the French before Acre and Alexandria, and
+compelled them to give up the conquest they had made in Egypt, he went
+on to say, that "all the great acts of mankind are guided and governed
+by a supernatural power. The French were defeated by the English,
+because the latter fought under the invincible standard of _Mahomet_;
+and so fully convinced are the true believers of this, that we now
+consider the English as brethren.  I hate the French mortally; they
+are a set of bloody impious infidels, and treacherous to a degree; I
+would not escort a dog of a Frenchman for all the treasures of the
+Emperor; I would rather lose my head than protect one.  I fought the
+dogs in Egypt; but I took care not to spare one; I laid many of them
+in the dust. It behoves every honest Moor to be on his guard against
+the intrigues and duplicity of the French. A Moor can certainly face
+six of them. The Emperor's troops have more bodily strength than
+theirs. By the by, it is whispered about, that they intend paying us a
+visit to plunder us, and ravish our fine women. Let them come, we will
+meet them, I warrant you, and give them their due. Not one will return
+to France to tell his story." I then filled him another cup of port,
+to drink destruction to the French, whenever they should attempt
+either his shores or ours--and here ended our dialogue. I found him a
+_bon-vivant_, willing to overlook certain restrictions of his Prophet,
+and to drink his wine like an honest Englishman.
+
+The second day of our journey I had raised his spirits to such a
+height, that he wantonly picked a quarrel with the muleteer, and gave
+him two or three slight cuts with his sabre, which so much provoked
+the honest driver, that, being a stout robust man, he soon dismounted
+my hero, and would actually have sent him to the shades below, but for
+my interference.  When the Serjeant recovered his senses, he was very
+much alarmed lest his conduct should be exposed, or reach the ears of
+the Governor of Larache. In order therefore to dissipate the fears of
+this gallant soldier, I made the muleteer and the other swear, by
+their Prophet, to keep the transaction a secret. After this we
+travelled on merrily, without further disputes, and arrived here on
+the third day. I waited immediately upon, and delivered my letter to
+the Governor, who commanded one of his officers to conduct me to the
+house of the Vice-consul, where I now remain, in expectation of some
+vessel to convey me to Gibraltar.
+
+LETTER VI.
+
+
+_Ill Usage of a Lieutenant of the Swiftsure--Disaffection of the
+Moorish Governor towards Great Britain_.
+
+Gibraltar, March 1806
+
+His Majesty's ship the Swiftsure having arrived at Tetuan, to take in
+fresh water, I went on board. The watering-place is about eighteen
+miles from Tetuan, and six from the customhouse, at which last place
+is a tower, guarded by a strong detachment, and commanded by a
+Captain. When the ship had completed her water, signals were made to
+strike the tent, and every one to repair on board.
+
+It has always been customary for English men of war going to water
+there, to make the commanding officer a present of a cartridge of
+powder, which compliment was duly paid by the second Lieutenant of the
+Swiftsure; but the Moorish Captain, not contented with one cartridge,
+insisted upon having two. The Lieutenant refused to comply with this
+new and extraordinary demand; upon which he was immediately seized by
+a party of soldiers, who, after knocking him down, pinioned him, and
+in this degrading manner marched him up to Tetuan, under a strong
+escort.
+
+Captain Rutherford (who commands the Swiftsure), on hearing of this
+daring outrage, could with difficulty refrain from making instant
+reprisals: but unwilling to embroil the two nations, he sailed without
+delay, and arrived in the course of a few hours in this bay.  Two days
+after Mr. Wickes, the Lieutenant, joined the Swiftsure. He reports,
+that, after a most painful march, he was taken before Governor
+Ash-Ash, who released him, immediately, and promised to punish the
+Captain of the fort for the insult; a promise which, I am pretty
+confident, he never performed.
+
+Such an act will naturally inspire you with horror, and induce you to
+consider the Moors as a ferocious, barbarous set of people: but,
+believe me, it could only have been perpetrated under the government
+of _Ash-Ash_. At any other port of Barbary, a British officer will
+meet with a most kind and hospitable reception, and every mark of
+respect due to him.  The Emperor has given Ash-Ash positive orders to
+respect the English, and not to take the part of the French, directly
+or indirectly; but, as I observed in a former letter, I conceive this
+Moor to be completely under French influence.
+
+I am extremely busy in making the necessary preparations for my next
+trip; and as you are kind enough to say you are gratified with the
+account I have already sent you of the empire of Morocco, and wish me
+to continue my remarks, I shall most probably trouble you with a
+letter, whenever I meet with any thing that may serve to interest or
+amuse you.
+
+LETTER VII.
+
+_Sail for Tetuan--Appearance of the Coast--Enter the Boosega
+River--Curious Towers of Defence--Custom-house-Female Dress--Enter
+Tetuan over a Road of unlevelled Rock--Disagreeable Streets--Well
+received by the Governor--Public Markets--Socco--An Auction Market._
+
+
+Tetuan; March 14th, 1806
+
+One of His Majesty's brigs having been appointed to convey me either
+to Tangiers or Tetuan, the wind blowing due west, we sailed for this
+port. As the ship drew near the shore, I had a full view of this wild
+coast.  The tops of the lofty mountains are prodigious barren rocks,
+while their base is interspersed with broom and box. The hills and
+dales are covered with myrtles of various kinds, assuming different
+shades of lovely green. The towers and castles, which are of a
+delicate whiteness, rising in the midst of these groves of myrtles,
+render the scene interesting.  The plaster made use of in the erection
+of these towers is, of itself, extremely white; but the Moors are not
+satisfied with this, and they add a whitewash of lime.
+
+The towers are harmless as fortifications, since, for want of skill in
+the manufacture of gunpowder, the Moors are very deficient in that
+necessary article. No present therefore is more acceptable to them
+than a few cartridges of it.
+
+After firing two or three guns by way of signal to the Vice-consul,
+announcing my arrival, as the Captain had directions only to put me on
+shore, and to proceed to sea immediately to join Lord Collingwood's
+fleet, my baggage was put into a large Moorish boat, and I entered the
+river _Boosega_ (commonly called St. Martin) in the Captain's barge.
+This river is defended by a castle of singular construction, the
+entrance to which is by means of a ladder to a door in the upper
+story, and which ladder is occasionally drawn up. The four angles of
+the building are finished with small turrets, capped with clumsy
+domes, and having several ports for cannon. Near this place many of
+the Emperor's gallies anchor, and winter.
+
+Having proceeded a considerable way up the river, we landed at another
+castle, called the Custom-house. On my landing, I was received by the
+Vice-consul (an opulent Jew, and a native of Barbary), accompanied by
+the commanding officer and his troop. They conducted me to the
+Custom-house, which is built of stone, and whitewashed, arid, at a
+distance, appears to very great advantage. We entered this public
+building by an arched gateway, and proceeded through a winding passage
+into a quadrangle, in the centre of which is a well of excellent
+water. Near the well was an arcade, shaded by a grape-vine, to which I
+was conducted, and there placed in an old arm-chair. The Vice-consul
+and the Moorish commandant seated themselves cross-legged, upon mats
+spread upon the floor, and dinner, consisting of roasted fowls and
+fried sardinias, was immediately served.
+
+After dinner my baggage was put upon mules, and a saddle-horse was
+brought for me. This animal was perfectly white, and loaded with an
+enormous saddle, which had a large peak before and behind, covered
+with a scarlet cloth, and furnished with a pair of stirrups of a
+curious form, much resembling a coal-scuttle; but, _outré_ as
+this appeared, I assure you, I found myself very comfortably seated,
+and perfectly secure from falling.  Thus equipped, we set forward for
+Tetuan, accompanied by a Moorish officer and twelve horsemen.
+
+Whips are not in fashion in this country, and their place is supplied
+by two long ends of the bridle, cut to a point; but the horses, though
+very spirited, are perfectly under command, and need neither whip nor
+spur.
+
+The town of Tetuan is seen at a great distance, from being built, like
+Tangiers, on the declivity of a high hill, and the houses being
+whitewashed. The road from the Custom-house is abominably bad; it lies
+across a wearisome, barren plain, surrounded by craggy mountains. Here
+and there, indeed, may be seen a small fertile spot, covered with
+cattle, sheep, and goats, and occasionally a well, encompassed by a
+wall of broad flat stones, capable of affording a seat to a dozen
+people.  On approaching the city, however, the country appears more
+cultivated, luxuriant, and rich.
+
+The figures of some common women, apparently employed in agricultural
+occupations, struck me with surprise, as their dress was quite
+different from any I had seen when in this country before. On their
+head they wore a straw hat, of an enormous circumference; under this
+was a piece of white cloth extending over the forehead to the eyes;
+and immediately below this another, which reached as far down as the
+chin; their eyes peeping through the intermediate space. Their bodies
+were enveloped in a coarse haik, a species of serge of their own
+manufacture.
+
+Upon entering the city gate, one of my guards took hold of my bridle,
+and conducted me over innumerable rocks, to the Jewish town. The
+surface of the ground being an uneven rock, which every where remains
+unlevelled, the streets consist of abrupt ascents and descents, even
+worse than those of Larache; they are also extremely narrow and dirty;
+and as the houses have no windows towards the streets, you in fact
+pass along between two dead walls, almost suffocated by a hot and
+fetid atmosphere.
+
+When we reached the house of the Vice-consul, I was presented with a
+glass of _aguardiente_, for refreshment. After having passed the
+evening in the company of a numerous party of Barbary Jews, I retired
+to bed; and in the morning I waited on the Governor, to pay my
+respects to him. On our way thither, I was not a little surprised to
+see our Vice-consul pull off his slippers as we passed the mosques,
+and walk bare-footed. I soon learned, that the Jews are compelled to
+pay this tribute of respect, from which Christians are exempt,
+although they do not escape very frequent insults when walking through
+the city.
+
+We found His Excellency sitting cross-legged on a tiger-skin, smoking
+his pipe, under a niche in one of the courts of his mansion.  He
+received me with great politeness, and assured me that every thing
+should be arranged to render my journey to Larache safe and
+agreeable. Both, the Governor and his secretary asked me numberless
+questions respecting the laws and manners of the English; to all of
+which I gave short and general answers.
+
+As we returned from the castle we passed through a street of unusual
+breadth, on each side of which were the shops of the merchants.  I
+thence proceeded to take a general survey of the city; examining the
+different places allotted to people engaged in various branches of
+trade, and the manufactories of silk, carpets, and mats; and
+afterwards went to the public markets for meat, poultry, vegetables,
+cattle, sheep, horses, and mules. They are in spacious squares, and
+are exceedingly well stocked. I next went to see the _Socco_, which is
+a place appointed for the sale of several articles of wearing apparel
+as well as all sorts of goods, by public auction. The auctioneer walks
+backwards and forwards, exhibiting the commodities for sale, and
+bawling out the different prices offered. We returned, through several
+intricate streets, to the Jews' quarters, much fatigued, and worried
+with the impertinence and curiosity of the inhabitants.
+
+LETTER VIII.
+
+_Tetuan--The Jews much oppressed there--particularly the
+Females--Costume--Singularity of the Streets in the Jewish
+Town--Ceuta--Would be invaluable to England--Melilla--Summoned to
+visit the Emperor._
+
+Tetuan, ---- 1806.
+
+There is little that is remarkable in this town, beside what I
+mentioned in my last.  It is distant twenty miles from _Ceuta_, a
+Spanish fortress, and twelve from the Mediterranean, and is nearly
+opposite to the rock of Gibraltar. It has a good trade, and contains
+about eighty thousand inhabitants, twenty thousand of which are Jews,
+said to be very rich. The Jews are tolerably civilized in their
+manners, but are dreadfully oppressed by the Moors. Seldom a day
+passes but some gross outrage or violence is offered to the Jewish
+women, the generality of whom are very handsome, though their dress is
+by no means calculated to set off, but rather to detract from, their
+beauty.
+
+Men, women, and children, still preserve the same costume as in the
+time of Moses. You cannot conceive any thing more ridiculous than the
+_tout ensemble_ of a Barbary Jewess in full dress. Every part of her
+apparel is rich, but is so heavy, that, to an European, nothing can
+appear more awkward and unbecoming.  The Jewish ladies wear immense
+ear-rings.  I have observed several full twelve inches in
+circumference, and of a proportionate thickness; and a few ornaments
+being affixed to the ear-ring, I leave you to judge what materials
+their ears must be made of, to bear such a weighty appendage.
+
+The Jewish town is quite distinct from that of the Moors; but the
+difference between them is very little: the streets are equally narrow
+and dirty, and the houses have no windows on the outside; the roofs
+are also quite flat; the only variation is, that the streets are
+covered with a roof extending from the houses on each side, and have
+the appearance of subterraneous passages. There is a regular
+communication between the houses at the top, which is the favourite
+scene of recreation. Some of the women scarcely ever take the air,
+excepting on these flat roofs: in short, the inhabitants, both Jews
+and Moors, dance, sing, and take all their amusements on them. The
+rooms of the Jewish houses (as well as of the Moors) are long, narrow,
+and lofty, resembling galleries. Most of the houses are occupied by
+several families, which are generally large. Those inhabited by the
+more opulent are kept tolerably neat, and are adorned with rich and
+curious furniture; but they are, for the most part, exceedingly dirty;
+and the exhalations from the garlic and oil, which they use in great
+quantities in frying their fish, are enough to suffocate a person not
+entirely divested of the sense of smelling.  Their taste is so
+exquisitely refined, in regard to the oil they use, that they prefer
+our lamp-oil to any other, on account of its high flavour.
+
+Notwithstanding all these apparent obstacles to health, they contrive
+to preserve it admirably well. To an Englishman, their mode of life
+would scarcely appear worthy to be called living, but merely
+vegetating. Since the last plague, however, in Barbary, which
+destroyed a vast number of the Jews, they have not suffered from any
+infectious or contagious disorder, and their population has augmented
+so prodigiously, that the Emperor must, however reluctantly, extend
+the limits of their town. The Jews marry extremely young.  It is not
+at all unusual to see a married couple, whose united ages do not
+exceed twenty-two or twenty-three years.
+
+I cannot quit Tetuan, without giving you some account of _Ceuta_,
+which is at so small a distance from it. From its situation, it
+perfectly corresponds with the _Exillissa_ of _Ptolemy_, being the
+first maritime town to the eastward of the ancient _Tingis_, or modern
+Tangiers. It also clearly appears to have been the _Septa_ described
+by _Procopius_, who, with many others, derives this name from the
+adjacent seven hills. It was a place of great note in the time of the
+Vandals. It is now a strong regular fortified town. Ceuta is thirty
+miles from Tangiers, and nearly opposite to the entrance of the bay of
+Gibraltar.  It is nominally still in the hands of the Spaniards; but
+it is confidently rumoured, and believed, to have been ceded by treaty
+to the French. This important fortress has been, and is still,
+occasionally most awfully distressed for want of provisions; insomuch,
+that if closely besieged by land, by the Moors, and blocked up by the
+English by sea, it could not hold out any considerable time in
+possession of the French. The advantages resulting to Great Britain
+from such a valuable acquisition are incalculable.
+
+Every person who is acquainted with the situation of Ceuta, the rival
+of Gibraltar, must be very much astonished, that it should still be
+permitted to remain in the possession of the Spaniards, since a
+squadron of men of war, and a flotilla of gun and bomb vessels, might
+reduce it, even without the assistance, of the Moors; and thereby
+England would be sole mistress of the entrance to the
+Mediterranean. Convoys could collect in safety at Ceuta, and our trade
+in this sea be comparatively secure from annoyance. I understand this
+place was closely invested by Muley Yezid (the late Emperor of
+Morocco, and brother to the present Emperor), but for want of proper
+co-operation by sea, where it is most vulnerable, he was necessitated
+to raise the siege, and withdraw his troops.
+
+This garrison is supplied with provisions from Spain, the Moors being
+prohibited, on pain of death, from sending their commodities thither;
+and in order that this interdiction may be strictly observed, picquets
+and posts of Moorish cavalry and infantry are so judiciously
+stationed, that it is impossible for the mountaineers to smuggle in
+the smallest article.  The supplies from Spain are extremely
+precarious, from the necessity of conveying them in small fishing
+craft, to prevent their falling into the hands of the English.
+
+_Melilla_ also is in the possession of the Spaniards: this maritime
+town lies to the eastward of Tetuan. Many authors assert it to have
+been founded by the _Carthaginians_. It is likewise called _Melela_,
+from the great quantity of honey annually obtained in its
+neighbourhood. It was taken by the Spaniards about the beginning of
+the fifteenth century, and has remained under their dominion ever
+since. It has a strong castle, built on a rock, named _Gomera_. Along
+this coast, particularly from Tetuan to Melilla, there are several
+coves, in which the Spanish gunboats, and other small armed vessels,
+find shelter in cases of necessity. Indeed _Melilla_ is itself a place
+of refuge for those vessels of the enemy fitted out for the annoyance
+of our Mediterranean trade.
+
+I shall conclude this with a copy of a letter, which I have just
+received from Mr. Ross, the acting Consul-general in the room of the
+late Mr. Matra:
+
+
+"DEAR SIR,                 _Tangiers_,
+
+"I heard only to-day of your arrival at Tetuan, on your way to
+Larache; and this evening I received a letter from Sidy Mahommed
+Eslawee, Governor of that place, to request, that, if I knew you were
+in this country, I would beg you to use, every possible endeavour to
+come to him at Larache, and to accompany him to the Emperor, who
+wishes very much to see you. Let me therefore request your repairing
+as quickly as possible to Larache, and joining him before he departs;
+but should you miss him, he has left orders with his
+Lieutenant-governor there, to forward you on immediately. I should
+hope this jaunt will prove highly beneficial to you. Nothing on my
+part shall be wanting, either in advice, or information, by which you
+may think I can be of service. If you should see Governor Eslawee
+before my letter reaches him, give him my kindest and best wishes; and
+say that I hope, as he has been for a great many years past a sincere
+friend to the British nation, his friendship will continue true and
+steadfast.
+
+    "I remain, dear Sir,
+
+      "Your most obedient humble servant,
+
+             (Signed) "JOHN ROSS,
+
+                 "To Dr. Buffa,
+                  &c. &c. &c.
+                   Tetuan."
+
+
+In consequence of this request, I am making preparations for my
+departure by to-morrow morning. I shall write to you again from
+Larache. Though I have described every thing worthy of notice in that
+town in a former letter, yet I know you will wish to learn how I am
+received by the Governor on this my second trip.
+
+
+
+
+LETTER IX.
+
+_Journey to Larache--Annual Socco of St. Martin--No Christian
+permitted to witness it--Express Order for that Purpose in the
+Author's Favour--Specimen of native medical Skill--Reception at
+Larache--Complain of the Impositions of Governor Ash-Ash--Comparative
+Tariff--Effect the Renewal of the old Tariff with increasing
+Advantages._
+
+
+Larache.
+
+Before I introduce you a second time to the Governor, or relate my
+reception from him, I must beg leave to give you a description of my
+journey hither. Methinks I hear you say, "That is unnecessary, as, no
+doubt, it was much the same as before." No such thing, I assure you;
+for, in the first place, my style of travelling was infinitely
+superior, being provided, by the Moorish Governor, with a double
+guard, and having also eleven mules allowed me to carry my baggage,
+which, with two muleteers, my interpreter, and servant, made no
+despicable appearance. I had, besides, to contend with very stormy
+weather, which gave the country quite a different aspect.  From
+incessant rains, the rivers had overflowed, and nearly the whole of
+the country was under water, which rendered our journey not only
+difficult but dangerous. We were obliged to halt for two days, near a
+village, till the waters subsided; and during this time we feasted on
+fine fresh-water fish, and wild fowl. On the third day we proceeded;
+and here I must not omit an occurrence which served still further to
+give me an insight into the general character of this once powerful
+people.
+
+Fortunately (or unfortunately, some would say, who weighed the perils
+I had to encounter in the accomplishment of my wishes) I passed, on
+the day the inhabitants were meeting, the annual Socco of St. Martin,
+so called from its being held at the place whence the river of that
+name takes its source. I did not pass immediately over the spot, but
+so near, that I could perceive a multitude of people assembled
+together.  To obtain a better view of what they were about,
+notwithstanding the representations of my conductors, that no
+Christian was suffered to be present at this fair, I proceeded towards
+the crowd; but before I could reach the place, I was assailed by
+hundreds of people, who saluted me with such a discharge of stones,
+and even some fire-arms, that I was extremely glad to make good my
+retreat, which, with the aid of my guard, I effected, without
+sustaining any injury.
+
+Enraged at being thus foiled in my attempt, I hit upon a plan the most
+likely to succeed in gratifying my curiosity; which was, to send the
+Serjeant to the Cadi, to insist upon going up to the fair, and
+threatening to complain to the Emperor if he refused me. This had the
+desired effect. A deputation was ordered by the Cadi, with assurances
+that I was welcome among them. Accordingly, I repaired once more, to
+the scene of action.
+
+The great show of cattle, sheep, &c. exposed for public sale, by men
+and women half naked, first attracted my attention; which was however
+soon diverted from them to a Moorish juggler, and a rope-dancer, the
+latter performing several feats of great muscular strength. The people
+had formed a complete circle, sitting cross-legged round the
+rope-dancer. He was making a good collection, when the arrival of a
+celebrated _tweeb_ (the native term for a physician) spoiled his
+sport. At the sound of an instrument somewhat resembling a horn, they
+all started up, and flocked to the standard of this professor of the
+healing art, leaving the poor rope-dancer to finish his performance,
+or not, as he pleased. I found this new constellation to be a doctor
+of high renown, and a reputed saint, who lived in a neighbouring
+village, and who, as was his custom, had condescended to honour this
+annual meeting with his presence; selling and dispensing his
+medicines, arid at the same time performing surgical and dental
+operations.
+
+In order to have a full view of this Moorish Esculapius, I approached
+as closely as the multitude collected round him would allow. He was
+attended by a negro slave, and two disciples.  Ere long, four Moors
+brought a poor emaciated wretch, to obtain advice and relief from this
+redoubtable doctor. The unfortunate man was unable, from his reduced
+state, to stand. Having examined the eyes, tongue, and face of his
+patient, he made a solemn pause, and appeared to deliberate very
+profoundly, at length, he decided upon blood-letting _ad deliquium_,
+and immediately took from his patient eighteen ounces of blood; nor
+would he, in all probability, have stopped there, had the strength of
+the poor man allowed him to continue; but having brought on a
+_syncope_, he was obliged to desist. The arm was tied up with a
+handkerchief; the doctor received his fee from one of his patient's
+relatives; and the patient was left entirely to the efforts of nature
+in his favour. For humanity's sake, I afforded him every assistance in
+my power, and, after much difficulty, succeeded in restoring him to
+his senses; but he was so weakened by the absurd treatment he had
+experienced, as to have no chance of surviving the day. As the
+multitude firmly believed him to be quite dead, this apparent
+resuscitation astonished the people beyond measure; and from this
+circumstance supplies of every kind of provision were poured in on me,
+from all quarters.
+
+Soon after the above scene, a young woman presented herself, afflicted
+with a violent tooth-ache. The doctor, after his usual deliberation,
+resolved to extract the dolent tooth; and taking a string from his
+box, he fastened it round the tooth, and by a sudden jerk (which, from
+its force, I expected would have brought away jaw and all), he drew it
+out.  The poor girl bore the operation with exemplary patience and
+fortitude; and having satisfied the sapient doctor, she retired.
+
+Whilst I was thus occupied in observing the wonderful proceedings of
+this singular practitioner, an uproar in another part of the fair
+attracted my notice. Curiosity prompted me to inquire into its cause,
+and I found it was occasioned by a wild mountaineer, who had been
+detected in the act of stealing a Moorish garment.  He was seized, and
+taken before the Cadi, who ordered him the bastinado immediately;
+which was inflicted with such severity, that I could not forbear
+interceding for the fellow. The Cadi kindly remitted part of the
+punishment, and the culprit was set at liberty.
+
+Finding nothing else likely to compensate my longer stay, I summoned
+my suite, and proceeded on my journey, reflecting on the mutability of
+all earthly prosperity, which was so strongly exemplified in the
+history of the Moorish nation. The scene I had just left, argued such
+a small remove from absolute barbarism, that, more than once, I could
+not avoid exclaiming: "Are these the descendants of those people, who,
+for so many centuries, gave laws to the greater part of Spain, and
+subjected whole provinces to their dominion?  But those times are
+past, and, 'like the baseless fabric of a vision,' left 'not a wreck
+behind'."
+
+After a journey of six days (which might have been performed in three,
+but for the delays I have spoken of), we arrived here. His Excellency
+the Governor, and his suite, came out to meet me. He embraced me very
+cordially, and conducted me to the castle, where I was served with a
+sumptuous collation. The Governor being in hourly expectation of the
+orders of his Sovereign to repair to court, has his route made out,
+and has requested me to keep myself in readiness to depart at an
+hour's notice.
+
+
+I have received several letters by express, from, our Consul-general,
+complaining of Governor _Ash-Ash_, who has refused granting the
+regular supplies to our fleet, and the garrison of Gibraltar. From the
+character I have given you of this man, in a former letter, you will
+feel less astonished, when I inform you of his shameful conduct.  His
+rapacity and avarice are unbounded.  He refuses the regular supplies,
+insisting upon an additional duty being paid, besides the enormous one
+already imposed, on articles furnished to the English, contrary to the
+tariff established by treaty. Accordingly, I laid the following copy
+of the original tariff before His Excellency, and subjoined the
+imposition of Ash-Ash.  _Order to be observed by the British
+Vice-consuls, at Tetuan and Tangiers, respecting the English._
+
+
+                                                   DUTY.
+                                              Spanish Dollars
+    Cows, calves, and oxen, whether
+      stall-fed or not, per head                 5 now  25
+
+                                               Cobs.     Cobs.
+    Sheep and goats, per ditto                   2  --    7
+    Fowls, per dozen                             1  --    6
+    Lemons and oranges, per thousand             1  --    5
+    Eggs, Per ditto                              1  --    5
+    Dates, per quintal                           4  --    8
+    Orange-trees, each                           1  --    2
+    Figs, raisins, almonds, nuts, rhubarb,
+       oil, honey, soap, olives,
+       and red pepper, per quintal               2  --   12
+    Wheat, barley, oats, rice, and bean, 
+       per measure                               1  --    6
+    Straw, by the nett                         1/4  --    1
+    Pomegranates, amber-wood, %c., per quintal   1  --    4
+    Bees-wax and candles, per ditto             14  --   26
+    Ostrich feathers, per lb.                    2  --   16
+    Ivory, copper, sandrach, chohob,
+       and gum arabic, per quintal               5  --   15
+    Indigo, per ditto                            1  --   10
+    Goat skins, per quintal                      4  --    8
+    Beef ditto, per ditto                        3  --    6
+    Lion and tiger ditto, each                   4  --   12
+    Common tanned leather,per quintal            1  --    5
+    Morocco ditto                             free  --    5
+    Wool and hemp, per quintal                   3  --    6
+    All shoes and slippers,per hundred pair      4  --   10
+    Moorish caps, per ditto                      4  --   10
+    Mats, each                                   1  --    5
+    Mules, ditto                                10  --   50
+    Asses, ditto                                 5  --   10
+    Silk alhaiks, ditto                          2  --    5
+    Haiks of other kinds, ditto                  1  --    3
+
+This is a correct translation of the agreement, and tariff, settled
+eleven years ago, between the present Emperor Muley Solyman, and the
+late Consul-general Mr. Matra.  Having laid this before His
+Excellency, I was so fortunate as to prevail on him to request the
+Emperor to renew it, and to grant an increase of fresh provisions,
+during the war, to the fleet off Cadiz, and to the garrison of
+Gibraltar.
+
+It is impossible to doubt for a moment, at at whose instigation it was
+that Ash-Ash behaved in this infamous manner. It is certainly the
+interest of the French nation to prevent, if possible, our receiving
+supplies from Barbary; consequently we cannot wonder that every means
+should be employed to accomplish this end, and Ash-Ash is certainly
+the fittest instrument, from his hatred to the English: fortunately,
+however, he is not a free agent. My friend, and the friend of the
+English, the good Governor of this place, referred the whole to the
+Emperor, who has very satisfactorily adjusted every thing to our
+advantage, and the mortification of the French Consul, and his tool.
+
+At the same time that His Excellency received the answer from the
+Emperor to the above-mentioned application, a letter arrived,
+requiring his immediate attendance at Fez; from which place you shall
+again hear from me.
+
+LETTER X.
+
+_Depart from Larache with a little Army--Moorish military
+Salute--Numerous Villages--Customary Procession of the
+Inhabitants--Judicial Arrangements--River Beth resembles the Po--Herds
+of Camels--Arrive at Mequinez--French Falsehood again put
+down--Excellent Road from Mequinez--Fertility and Luxuriance of the
+adjacent Country--Procession to the Sanctuary of Sidy
+Edris--Multiplicity of Saints--Ceremony demonstrative of the Emperor's
+Favour--Take possession of my new Residence._
+
+
+Fez, ---- 1806.
+
+In consequence of the dispatches received from the Emperor, we left
+Larache the same day. The Governor commands a territory of two hundred
+English miles. He put himself at the head of his troops, which
+amounted to six thousand cavalry, divided into squadrons,
+distinguished by their respective standards.  There were in his train,
+besides, a prodigious number of mules, some carrying field equipage
+and provisions, others the treasures, consisting of the collected
+taxes, and presents for the Emperor.
+
+This little army moved on in tolerably good order and discipline. It
+was preceded by an officer at the head of a small corps, doing the
+duty of a Quarter-master-general. We were met on our way by several
+officers, with small detachments of soldiers, under the government of
+His Excellency. The Moorish mode of saluting attracted my attention;
+when on a level in point of rank, the officers embrace each other, and
+then kiss the back of their own hand; but in saluting a superior, they
+kiss the hem of his garment; upon which he presents his hand, and they
+salute it. I assure you, they do all this with considerable grace.
+
+In passing through villages (which in this part are very numerous, and
+formed of a much greater collection of tents than those described in a
+former letter), we were received by a great concourse of men, women,
+and children, shouting, and making a noise exactly resembling the
+whoop of the North American savages. I was informed, that this was
+their usual mode of expressing their joy and mirth, on all great and
+solemn occasions.  A venerable Moor, the chief of the surrounding
+villages, accompanied by the military and civil officers, and by the
+principal inhabitants, advanced to kiss the garment of His Excellency:
+this ceremony was closed by a train of women, preceded by an elderly
+matron, carrying a standard of colours, made of various fillets of
+silk; and by a young one of great beauty, supporting on her head a
+bowl of fresh milk, which she presented, first to the Governor (or, as
+he is otherwise called, the Sheik), then to me, and afterwards to all
+the officers. This ceremony is always performed by the prettiest young
+woman of the village; and it not unfrequently happens, that her beauty
+captivates the affections of the great men (sometimes even the
+Emperor), and she becomes the legitimate and favourite wife.
+
+When we arrived at any village, His Excellency halted to receive the
+report of the commanding officer; and to inquire if any murder,
+robbery, or other crimes, militating against the laws and constitution
+of the empire, had been perpetrated. This excellent man patiently
+listened to all the complaints made to him; and after hearing both
+parties with the greatest impartiality, he ordered such delinquents as
+stood fairly convicted to be punished by imprisonment, or fine,
+according to the nature of their offences. At one place where he held
+a court of justice, he received information of a band of assassins who
+had lately committed several murders and highway robberies, and had
+violated many young women, whom they afterwards destroyed.  By this
+prompt and judicious arrangement, they were all secured, and brought
+before him. He ordered them to be dragged in the rear of his troops to
+Fez; there to receive whatever punishment the Emperor might think fit
+to award them.
+
+We performed our route by short and easy stages, on a road which is
+perfectly level, and very different from those between Tetuan or
+Tangiers and Larache. We generally halted about two o'clock in the
+afternoon, and encamped; struck tents again at four in the morning,
+and then moved on regularly without noise or confusion.
+
+On approaching the river _Beth_, we halted, to allow the baggage to
+cross, which was expeditiously conveyed in a large ferry-boat; the
+horses and mules were obliged to swim over, a spectacle curious and
+diverting enough.  I passed over with the Governor; after which the
+boat went backwards and forwards till the whole of the troops were
+transported across the river, when we encamped, the side which we had
+quitted being occupied by another little army, headed by the Governor
+of another district. The two opposite camps had much the appearance of
+two hostile armies previous to a battle.
+
+This river very much resembles the _Po_ in Italy, and is perfectly
+navigable. On each side are immense fields of corn and rice,
+intersected by tracts of waste land covered with broom and heath, and
+spots of pasture-land on which large droves of camels graze. To
+prevent the camels from straying, they have one of their fore legs
+bent at the first joint, and tied up: they are attended by boys, who
+take them out early in the morning, and at night bring them back to
+the tents, before which each camel takes his place as regularly as our
+cows do in their stalls.
+
+The next morning we reached a castle, and a ruinous walled town,
+occupied by soldiers, and slaves, who look after the herds of mules
+belonging to the Emperor. It is situated on a hill, whence I had a
+prospect of the immense plain we had first traversed, upon which not a
+single tree is to be seen.
+
+About noon, on the sixth day, we approached a lofty mountain, which
+terminated this extensive plain, and formed the commencement of a
+chain of high hills, which we ascended and descended successively, and
+at length descried the large and populous city of Mequinez: we passed
+by a long aqueduct, a remnant of ancient architecture, and several
+Roman ruins, and reached one of the great gates of the town, where we
+were met by a strong detachment of soldiers commanded by the Governor,
+who, after the salutations and ceremonies usual on such occasions,
+escorted us to the palace of Eslawee, the Governor of Larache, where I
+was kindly received and most hospitably entertained by all his
+relations and friends.
+
+On the morning after our arrival at Mequinez, an express arrived from
+the Emperor with an answer to a representation which I had made
+concerning the loss of a French privateer on the coast of Barbary; I
+had sent it at the same time with that respecting the tariff, and
+expected the answers together.  The affair was this: a French
+privateer attempted to board several of our transports, laden with
+bullocks, from Tangiers for Gibraltar; but had scarcely succeeded with
+one, when the Confounder gun-brig, which was appointed to convoy them,
+came unobserved, within pistol-shot, and after an obstinate engagement
+of two hours the Frenchman ran on shore, and went to pieces
+immediately under the Moorish battery.  This was considered, by the
+French Consul and his party, as an open violation of neutrality, and
+also a gross insult to His Imperial Majesty; and as such it was
+represented to him by Governor _Ash-Ash_, seconded by a letter from
+the French Consul, and supported by all his partisans. On our part,
+the statement was founded on simple facts, which perfectly satisfied
+the Emperor, and Governor _Ash-Ash_ received a severe reprimand,
+accompanied by the remark, that His Imperial Majesty regretted the
+English had been so passive on this occasion, and that his subjects
+did not exterminate every Frenchman that presumed to land on his
+shores without his permission. You will feel assured that this
+additional triumph on our part gave me no small satisfaction.
+
+My good friend Eslawee obtained leave likewise, to repose himself and
+his army for three days in his native place. This condescension was
+esteemed as an excellent omen.  At the conclusion of the appointed
+time, we set off for this our ultimate destination. The road from
+Mequinez to Fez is excellent, extending along a pleasant and spacious
+plain, encompassed by high mountains, and intersected by small rivers,
+over which are stone bridges. These rivers are divided into several
+branches, which are again subdivided by the inhabitants, and carried
+in canals to water their lands. The prospect of the country is every
+where luxuriant in the extreme, and continually presents the most
+interesting objects.  A scattered ruin, a large village, a meandering
+river, or a fine natural cascade, vineyards, woods, corn-fields,
+meadows, and saints' houses, surrounded by beautiful gardens and
+shrubberies, all lying in endless variety, formed the most picturesque
+landscapes.
+
+As we left our quarters at Mequinez rather late, we encamped at eight
+o'clock in the evening at the opening of the plain I have just
+described. The next morning we set off much earlier than usual, but
+had not proceeded far when our progress was interrupted by a
+prodigious multitude of people, who pressed forward with such
+eagerness, that we were obliged to stand aside, and allow them to
+pass. Men, on horseback and on foot, women, and children, formed a
+procession which extended as far as the eye could reach. They were
+advancing in several divisions, each division preceded by a man
+bearing a standard, and by a band of music (if the horrible discord
+produced by their instruments could be dignified with the name of
+music), the people accompanying the band with their voices, shouting,
+bawling, and bellowing their national songs with the greatest
+vehemence.
+
+These people were on their way to visit the sanctuary of _Sidy Edris_,
+the founder of Mahometanism in this country: it stands on the mountain
+_Zaaron_, at the western side of the plain of Fez, and near the city
+of Mequinez.  Close to the sanctuary is a village, the inhabitants of
+which are held in the highest veneration, their huts and tents being
+consecrated to the Mahometan devotion, and, as well as the sanctuary,
+forming asylums for malefactors, which are never violated even by the
+Emperor. After this visit to the sanctuary, they attend an annual
+meeting, where they feast for three days, amusing themselves with
+dancing, fighting with wild beasts, and committing all kinds of excess
+in the ancient Bacchanalian style.
+
+Formerly saints sprang up in Barbary like mushrooms. A Moor, seized in
+the night with a slight fit of insanity, was considered in the morning
+as a new saint, and as such he was revered, and his name added to
+their list of saints. In consequence of this, he was permitted to do
+whatever his fancy directed, without suffering the smallest
+molestation.  Hence many worthless wretches feigned madness, in order
+that they might, with impunity, gratify their avaricious and
+revengeful passions, or their violent and ungovernable lust. The
+number of these impostors a few years back was incredible, and they
+literally held sovereign rule, from their numbers and great influence
+over this superstitious and fanatic people; but since the accession of
+Muley Solyman to the throne of Morocco, their influence and their
+numbers have considerably decreased. The country has been in a great
+measure swept and cleansed of imposters and other profligate persons,
+and the rest approach more and more towards a tolerable degree of
+civilization, under his paternal care and example. His chief study and
+attention appear to be directed to the welfare and happiness of his
+people.
+
+We received no further interruptions; but reached this place on the
+26th of April. On approaching the walls of the imperial palace, His
+Excellency formed his little army into a line of two deep. They fired
+a _feu de joie_ with great precision and correctness. This done, they
+filed off to the place allotted for our encampment. Shortly after, two
+black slaves arrived from the palace, with a large bowl of fresh milk,
+and several cakes of bread, which were presented with much ceremony to
+His Excellency the Sheik, and received by him with marks of the most
+profound respect.  This compliment was also paid to me, and to all his
+officers. This ceremony in Barbary, indicates that the person so
+honoured is a friend and favourite at the court of Morocco. The other
+Governors, with the exception of three, received the same honour,
+successively as they assembled on the plains of Fez, to be afterwards
+reviewed by the Emperor at the anniversary celebration of the birth of
+Mahomet. The three disgraced Governors were arrested the next day,
+thrown into prison, and condemned to remain there at the pleasure of
+the Emperor. Their whole property, amounting, as I am told, to several
+hundred thousand dollars, was confiscated.
+
+My friend finding himself thus perfectly secure, appeared in high
+spirits, and proceeded to the palace to prostrate himself before his
+sovereign. He was received with every mark of the highest approbation
+and favour. At his return to the camp, he came to me with a smiling
+countenance, and related the flattering reception he had met with. He
+then informed me, that the Emperor had given orders, that a convenient
+house should be immediately provided for me, and that an officer of
+the household was coming to conduct me to my new habitation. This
+officer arrived while we were talking, and I followed him to my place
+of residence, which I found exceedingly neat and commodious. This I
+continue to occupy, and am furnished abundantly with all the
+delicacies which the city of Fez affords.
+
+I have exceeded the bounds of moderation in this letter already, and
+must therefore postpone my introduction till my next.
+
+LETTER XI.
+
+_Imperial Review of eighty thousand Cavalry--The Palace--Introduction
+to the Emperor--Visit the Seraglio--Beauty of the Sultana--Her
+Indisposition--Her Influence over the Emperor--His Person described._
+
+Fez, ---- 1806.
+
+Late in the evening of the day of my arrival, I was visited at my
+house by an officer, who informed me that his royal master would
+review his troops the following morning, and that, if I chose to be
+present, I must repair to the palace precisely at four o'clock.
+
+I was there exactly at the time, and in a few minutes the Emperor
+appeared, mounted on a beautiful white horse, attended by an officer
+of state, holding over him a large damask umbrella, most elegantly
+embroidered, and followed by all his great officers, body-guards, and
+a numerous band of music. He was greeted with huzzas in the Moorish
+style by the populace, and received at all the gates and avenues of
+the town with a general discharge of artillery and small arms, the
+people falling upon their knees in the dust as he passed.  The streets
+were covered with mats, and the road, as far as the plain where the
+troops were drawn out, was strewed with all kinds of flowers.
+
+The army was formed into a regular street of three deep on each side,
+each corps distinguished by a standard; it extended to a great length,
+through the immense plain of Fez, and presented a grand military
+spectacle.  There were not less than eighty thousand cavalry.  This
+review was finished in six hours, and His Imperial Majesty was so much
+pleased with the steady, orderly, and soldierlike appearance of his
+troops, that he commanded a horse to be given to each of the officers,
+and an additional suit of clothes and six ducats more than is
+customary to the men. No other exercise was performed on this
+occasion, than charging, firing off their pieces, and priming and
+loading at full gallop, by alternate divisions.  Thus an incessant
+fire was kept up during the day.
+
+The ground being perfectly level and good, no accident occurred. The
+dress of the Moorish army differs very little from that of the
+people. The officers are distinguished by their turbans, from the
+privates, who wear red caps. They are considered most excellent
+horsemen, and appeared to be supplied with very fine young horses, and
+well appointed. I can say but little of the infantry and artillery of
+His Imperial Majesty, not having had an opportunity of seeing them
+assemble in any sort of exercise. The cavalry are unquestionably most
+capital marksmen, and very capable of annoying and harassing and
+checking the progress of an invading army. The men are stout, strong,
+and robust, accustomed to a continual state of warfare, and, from
+their simple and moderate manner of living, fully adequate to sustain
+the fatigues and privations of the most arduous campaign.
+
+In the Moorish army there is a prodigious number of blacks, who are
+reckoned very loyal, and perfectly devoted to the Emperor.  This
+accounts for so many black governors being at the head of the most
+important districts and provinces of Barbary,
+
+I returned very late from the review, and had scarcely dined when a
+messenger came to request my early attendance the following morning,
+to be presented to His Imperial Majesty.  I repaired betimes to the
+palace, which is an immense pile of buildings, enclosed by a strong
+wall and a large deep ditch. It has four great gates, plated, both on
+the outside and in, with sheets of iron. I entered the front gate, and
+by a covered way reached a spacious court, surrounded by a piazza,
+under which several field-pieces and small mortars were placed. Here I
+was met by Sidy Ameth, a black officer, who acts as master of the
+ceremonies, and lord in waiting. He received me with great politeness,
+and conducted me, through another gate and covered way, to a second
+square more spacious than the first. In the centre was a most
+beautiful white marble basin, into which played a fountain of water
+clear as crystal. Over it was a kind of rotunda, supported by columns
+of elegant black marble. This superb square is paved with small pieces
+of marble, intermixed with pebbles of various colours, in the mosaic
+style. It is formed by four wings of the building. The front wing,
+exclusive of its magnificent entrance, contains several apartments and
+waiting-rooms, occupied by the great officers of state; the right, the
+library, and the treasury of the Emperor; the left, a superb mosque,
+and a school-room for the use of the Emperor's children, where they
+are taught to read and write, and study the Alcoran; and finally, the
+back, the great hall of audience, in which His Imperial Majesty was
+seated cross-legged upon a kind of couch, under a crimson velvet
+canopy, most beautifully decorated with figured work in gold.
+
+I was introduced by Sidy Ameth; and after making my obsequious
+reverence, I stood at a great distance, waiting the Imperial commands,
+when His Majesty was graciously pleased to order me, by signs, to draw
+near, and then, by means of an interpreter, he informed me, that, in
+consequence of the good I had done his subjects during my residence at
+Larache, he had long been anxious to see and consult me. He desired me
+to ask any favours I chose, either for myself or my country, and they
+should be granted immediately.  I thanked His Majesty for his
+condescension, and then presented him with a patent pistol, with seven
+barrels, which he examined very attentively in every part, and
+appeared highly pleased with its construction.
+
+He commanded the hall to be cleared, and in a very friendly and
+familiar way told me the nature of his complaint; after which he
+summoned the chief eunuch, and desired me to follow him to the
+seraglio, to prescribe for his favourite Sultana, who was seriously
+indisposed.  On leaving the hall of audience, we turned to the left,
+and arrived at a gate, which terminated the piazza on the right side
+of the square. Through this gate we entered a large passage, paved
+with marble; on each side were marble benches, upon which the eunuch
+informed me, the inferior eunuchs and the female attendants of the
+seraglio slept.  This passage conducted us to another square, on the
+right of which is the Imperial bath.  It is almost impossible to form
+an idea of the elegance and convenience of this structure, which is
+used only by the Emperor.
+
+Adjoining the bath is a refectory, which is constantly supplied with
+every kind of refreshment.  The other sides of this square contained
+the apartments of two or more ladies of His Imperial Majesty. It would
+be tedious to enumerate the several squares through which I passed;
+they differ only in splendour and magnificence, according to the rank
+and taste of those ladies to whom they belong: they all communicate
+from one piazza to another, by means of passages, such as I have
+described. I was extremely indebted to my black conductor for giving
+me an opportunity of seeing the whole of the seraglio; for I returned
+by a much less circuitous route than that by which I went, the
+apartments of the Sultana being just behind the Imperial bath.  But
+where shall I find words to give you an adequate idea of their lovely
+inhabitant? Conceive every thing that is beautiful, and you may
+possibly arrive near the mark. She is rather below the middle size,
+exquisitely fair, and well proportioned. When I first saw her, she was
+in a very doubtful state, and I reported accordingly to the Emperor;
+he was sensibly affected, and besought me to exert my utmost skill, to
+preserve a life of so much value to him. Happily, my efforts have been
+crowned with success, and I hope a very short time will restore her to
+perfect health. She controls him in every thing, and is considered,
+from her absolute dominion over him, as the fountain of all favours.
+
+The gardens of the seraglio are beautifully laid out by Europeans, and
+contain several elegant pavilions and summer-houses, where the ladies
+take tea and recreate themselves; baths, fountains, and solitary
+retreats for those inclined to meditation: in short, nothing is
+wanting to render this a Complete terrestrial paradise, but liberty,
+the deprivation of which must embitter every enjoyment.
+
+Muley Solyman, the present Emperor, is about thirty-eight years of
+age, in height about six feet two inches, of a tolerably fair
+complexion, with remarkably fine teeth, large dark eyes, aquiline
+nose, and black beard; the _tout ensemble_ of his countenance noble
+and majestic. He governs Barbary with discretion and moderation; in
+the distribution of justice, or in rewarding his subjects, he is just
+and impartial; in his private conduct no less pious and exemplary,
+than, in his public capacity, firm and resolute, prompt and
+courageous.  In my next letter I shall give you a brief account of the
+succession of Sovereigns from the time of _Edris_ to the present
+reigning family.
+
+LETTER XII.
+
+
+_Succession of the Sovereigns from their Founder to the present
+Emperor._
+
+
+Fez, ---- 1806.
+
+Edris; the founder of Mahometanism in Barbary, was succeeded by his
+posthumous son, _Edris the Second_, who founded the first monarchy,
+after that of Mahomet, in these regions; and it was called the Kingdom
+of the West. The family of Edris continued to reign for about a
+hundred and fifty years; but was disturbed, during the tenth century,
+by several intestine divisions, excited by a crowd of usurpers, which
+terminated in the total extinction of the Edrissites.
+
+The tribe of Mequinici seized on several provinces, and founded, on
+the ruins of the ancient, the present city of Mequinez.
+
+_Abu-Tessifin_, a Maraboot, or Monk, taking advantage of the divisions
+which convulsed these countries, and above all of the credulity of
+this fickle people, sent several of his disciples to preach and excite
+the multitude to revolt, under the pretext of recovering their
+liberties. This great impostor was the chief of the tribe of
+_Lamthunes_, surnamed _Morabethoon_, on account of the extreme rigour
+with which they observed the forms of the new religion.
+
+This tribe resided between Mount Atlas and the Desert. The Moors being
+weary of their Arabian rulers, flocked in crowds to the standard of
+Tessefin, who soon found himself at the head of a large army, by means
+of which he conquered, many provinces, and established himself
+Sovereign of Mauritania.
+
+He was succeeded by his son _Joseph-Ben-Tessefin_, who in 1086
+finished the city of Morakesh, or Morocco, which his father had begun,
+and there fixed his seat of government.  In 1097 he seized on the
+kingdom of Fez, and united it to that of Morocco: he also joined his
+forces to those of the Mahometans in Spain, and conquered the city of
+Seville, subdued all Andalusia, Grenada, and Murcia, penetrated as far
+as Cordova, and defeated the army of Alphonso VI. of Spain.  After
+which he returned, loaded with spoils, to Morocco, where he died. He
+was succeeded by his son _Aly_, who likewise passed over into Spain,
+but was defeated and slain by Alphonso at the battle of Moriella.
+
+His son _Brahem_, an indolent prince, and much addicted to pleasure,
+was proclaimed King of Morocco. His profligacy favoured the ambitious
+projects of a Mahometan preacher, named _Mahomet Abdallah_. This
+impostor assumed the name of _Mahedi, Commander of the Faithful_, and
+drew a host of people to his standard. In the course of his mission,
+he met another preacher, at the head of a multitude of followers, who
+also styled himself _Mahedi_, or _the Prophet_ expected at the end of
+ages.
+
+These two adventurers, consulting their mutual interest, coalesced,
+and having completely succeeded in seducing the people, by projects of
+reformation, _Abdallah_ was proclaimed King of Morocco, and
+_Abdul-Momen_, the other imposter, General of the Faithful. This
+haying effected the destruction of Brahem, he contrived to dispatch
+his colleague so privately as to avoid the imputation of being
+accessary to his death, and succeeded him in the sovereignty.  He
+demolished all the palaces and mosques of the Kings in Morocco, and
+laid the greater part of that city in ruins, it having shut its gates
+against him when, he presented himself before it; and he destroyed the
+young son of Brahem with his own hands. He afterwards, however,
+rebuilt Morocco, and died in 1155, in possession of the sovereign
+power.
+
+He was succeeded by his son Joseph, who passed over into Spain, and
+engaging with the armies of the Kings of Portugal and Leon, he was
+killed by a fall from his horse. His son _Abu-Jacob_, surnamed
+_Almonsor_ the Invincible, assumed the government, suppressed the
+divisions that distracted the country, and, rendered himself so
+powerful and formidable, that the Mahometan Kings in Spain elected him
+as their supreme ruler. After performing numberless gallant exploits,
+he disappeared on a sudden, as some assert, to perform the pilgrimage
+to Mecca; but it is most probable, he was secretly murdered and buried
+by the descendants of Abdallah. His son ascended the throne, but died
+in a very short time of grief, in consequence of his losses in Spain.
+He was the last King of this family.
+
+_Abdallah_, the Governor of Fez, of the tribe of Benimecius, usurped
+the crown of his master. Of his successors, the only prince who took
+part in the Mahometan wars in Spain was _Abul Hassen_, who conquered
+Gibraltar, and built the fort which still retains the name of the
+_Moorish Castle_. He was dethroned and assassinated by his son, _Abul
+Hassen_, a ferocious and ambitious tyrant, who left a son, named
+_Abu-Said_, of a very depraved character, in whose reign Ceuta, after
+a long siege, was taken by Don John, King of Portugal.
+
+These usurpers were completely extirpated by the house of Merini,
+which family in its turn was overcome by _Muley Mahomet_, a Xeriffe of
+the same tribe, who seized the reins of government. His successors did
+not long enjoy the fruit of their usurpation, but were most dreadfully
+disturbed by a series of revolutions and murders, fomented and
+perpetrated by the mountaineers, a resolute, ferocious, and restless
+people, who, after raising the various parts of the country in arms
+one against the other, and subjecting them to all the calamities of
+civil war, cruelly butchered _Muley Achmet_, the last of the sons of
+_Muley Sidan_ and proclaimed their chief, _Crom-el-Hadgy_, a
+bloodthirsty ruffian, of low birth, and eminent in cruelties, in his
+stead. This tyrant, to secure his new acquisition, inhumanly massacred
+all the male descendants of the Xeriffes. He soon became the object of
+universal detestation, and was poignarded by his Sultana on the day of
+marriage. She was of the family of the Xeriffes, and consented to
+marry him, only that she might have a better opportunity of
+sacrificing him to her revenge, for the murder of her family.
+
+After the tragical end of the descendants of the Xeriffes, these
+countries, but more especially the province of Tafilet, experienced
+all the horrors of famine and pestilence, for several years. The
+people of Tafilet considered it as a judgment from their Prophet for
+their injustice; and, to appease him, they made a pilgrimage to Mecca,
+and easily prevailed on a Xeriffe, a descendant of Mahomet, named
+_Muley Aly_, who resided in a town near Medina, to accompany them back
+to this country. In the mean time, the seasons having become more
+genial, the harvests were so abundant, that this credulous and
+superstitious people attributed the change entirely to the arrival of
+the pious Xeriffe. He was unanimously proclaimed King of Tafilet, by
+the name of _Muley Xeriffe_; and as such acknowledged by the other
+provinces, with the exception of Morocco and its environs, which were
+then in the possession of _Crom-el-Hadgy_, who having ended his career
+in the manner described, was soon followed by his son; and the ancient
+families who had ruled the empire being completely extinct, the new
+King of Tafilet, from his birth, religion, and the public election,
+was confirmed the legitimate Sovereign of the whole county.
+
+Muley Xeriffe was the founder of the dynasty of _Fileli_, from which
+the present reigning family is descended. This country, totally
+exhausted by divisions and civil wars, acquired the enjoyments of
+peace and plenty, during the reign of this prince, who resided at
+Tafilet, and caused the Governors, who were entrusted with provinces,
+to rule with equity.  He made it his whole study to render this fickle
+and turbulent people happy; the latter part of his reign was perfectly
+undisturbed, and his death was universally and justly lamented.  He
+was succeeded by his eldest son, who was proclaimed, without the
+disturbances usual on those occasions, by the name of _Muley Mahomet_.
+
+This prince, equally just and pious with his father, reigned for some
+time very peaceably; and from his exemplary conduct would have
+continued to do so to his death, to the increasing prosperity of his
+subjects, but for his brother, _Muley Arshid_, an ambitious prince,
+who, endowed with an intelligent mind, equal to the vast project he
+had in contemplation, raised a rebellion, with a view to seize on the
+sovereign power. At the head of a numerous party, in a pitched battle,
+he was however defeated, and taken prisoner, by his brother _Muley
+Mahomet_. But he recovered his liberty, by the aid of a negro slave,
+whom he rewarded by striking off his head at the very instant he had
+enabled the monster to recover his liberty.
+
+After wandering about for some time, stirring up the minds of the
+people to revolt, Muley Arshid fled to the mountains of Rif, where he
+offered his services to the Sovereign of those districts, who,
+unfortunately discovering the abilities of the stranger, confided to
+him the administration of his territories, when, after having by
+stratagem and prodigality gained the troops and the people to his
+interests, he dethroned and inhumanly butchered his royal
+benefactor. He then defeated his brother _Mahomet_, and closely
+besieged him in Tafilet, whence that good prince died of grief. To
+enumerate the bloody exploits of this prince would extend my letter to
+a volume; suffice it therefore to say, that his reign was short, and
+the remembrance of it never to be effaced. He died in 1672 of a
+fractured skull, in consequence of a fall from his horse.
+
+He was succeeded by his brother _Muley Ishmael_, who distinguished
+himself by some brave actions; and his reign would have formed a grand
+epoch in the history of this country, had he not stained it by a
+succession of tyranny and cruelties, too shocking to dwell upon. He
+died in 1727 at the advanced age of eighty-one, leaving behind him a
+numerous offspring. This prince, in order to ensure his despotic and
+arbitrary power, contrived to form a regular army of foreign soldiers,
+which he effected, partly from the negro families, then settled in
+Barbary, but principally from a vast number of blacks which he
+obtained from the coast of Guinea.
+
+_Muley-Achmet-Daiby_, one of the numerous sons of Ishmael, ascended
+the throne of Morocco, and, after reigning two years, died of a
+dropsy. His successor, _Muley Abdallah_, by far surpassed all his
+predecessors in point of vices and cruelty. His conduct was so
+flagrant, that he was deposed no less than six times, but as often
+re-elected. Amidst civil wars, divisions, and devastations, the plague
+again made its appearance, and committed the same dreadful ravages as
+in the reign of _Ishmael_. Being reinstated for the sixth time,
+_Abdallah_ took advantage of the troubles occasioned by this terrible
+disease, to excite divisions among his negro soldiers, by whose power
+alone he had suffered all his humiliations. Vast numbers of this
+warlike race fell the victims of his treachery, and he succeeded in
+reducing them so low, that they were no longer a subject of dread to
+him.  Having thus freed himself of all cause of restraint, he
+recovered his power, and, if possible, plunged deeper than ever into
+the gulf of iniquity; and each succeeding day was stained with crimes
+of the blackest hue. The only sentiments with which he inspired his
+unhappy people were those of terror and disgust. At length, worn out
+with age, he died at Fez in 1757; and was succeeded by his son _Sidi
+Mahomet_, who had begun to reform several abuses, during the latter
+part of his father's reign, when he had been entrusted with the
+government of Morocco.
+
+This prince, the father of the present Emperor, was endowed with an
+intelligent mind, and possessed nothing of the barbarian. His
+political views, and excellent regulations, soon restored the order of
+things. He directed all his care to the welfare of his people, both at
+home and abroad; he concluded, and renewed, several advantageous
+commercial treaties, with England, France, Spain, Portugal, Sweden,
+Denmark, and Holland, with all of whom he maintained a good
+understanding till 1777; when, gained over by the courts of France and
+Spain, he broke the treaty with England, and refused to supply
+Gibraltar with fresh provisions. He appointed officers of the
+strictest integrity, and of moderate and resolute characters, to the
+government of his provinces; and the whole period of his reign was
+exempt from those horrible cruelties which had almost invariably
+disgraced the sceptres of his predecessors.  He died at an advanced
+age, at _Rabat_, on the 11th of April 1790.
+
+After the old Emperor's death, the states of Barbary became convulsed
+by the civil discords, attended with great effusion of bloody
+occasioned by Sidi Mahomet's numerous sons, who severally aspired to
+the crown. The contest was for a long time doubtful and bloody; but at
+length, Muley Yezid was proclaimed Emperor, by a powerful party.  As
+the whole country was up in arms, he had to combat with many
+difficulties in establishing himself on the throne. He was no sooner
+confirmed in his power, than he exercised it with uncommon cruelty
+towards his captives.  Under the idea of striking terror into the
+minds of his subjects, by the force of example, and deterring them
+from revolting again, he inflicted the most dreadful punishment on
+those who had opposed his authority; some he caused to be hung up by
+the feet, and suffered to perish for want of sustenance; others, to be
+crucified at the gates of the city; and several high priests, and
+officers of state, he deprived of the blessing of sight.
+
+But his cruelty and inhumanity did not rest here. In the above
+proceedings he might possibly urge in palliation a regard to his
+personal safety, and the possession of a crown which he held by so
+precarious a tenure as the caprice of a multitude, who might wrest it
+from him with as little scruple as they had bestowed it, if not awed
+by some terrible example; but where shall we seek an excuse for his
+execrable barbarity to the poor Jews in his dominions, whom he ordered
+to be massacred, without distinction?  The carnage was most horrible;
+and the property of this persecuted people was indiscriminately
+plundered by their rapacious murderers. Six young Jewesses, who
+ventured to intercede for their unhappy fathers and relations, were
+burned alive.  My blood runs cold at the idea of such depravity; and I
+shrink, from the reflection that our own history will furnish us with
+annals, almost or fully as replete with horror as the one I am now
+relating.
+
+It is not all surprising that such unjustifiable cruelty should kindle
+disgust in the minds of those who were not totally divested of the
+feelings of humanity. Several of his provinces rebelled, but he
+successively reduced them to obedience; and in the last battle which
+he fought, before the city of Morocco, and gained, he was severely
+wounded.  The rebel army was surrounded, and defeated with great
+slaughter. _Muley Yezid_ was carried to the castle, and his wound
+dressed; but his treatment was so improper, that, after lingering a
+few days in the most excruciating torture, he died in 1794.
+
+The present Emperor, _Muley Solyman_, was the youngest prince, and
+lived retired in the city of Fez, assiduously occupied in studying the
+Alcoran and the laws of the empire, in order to qualify himself for
+the office of high-priest, which he was intended to fill. From this
+retreat he was called by the priests, the highest in repute as saints,
+in the neighbourhood of Fez, and a small party of the Moorish militia,
+and by them prevailed upon to come forward as a candidate for the
+crown, in opposition to his three brothers, who were waging war with
+each other, at the head of numerous forces.  In the midst of this
+anarchy and confusion, the young prince was proclaimed Emperor at Fez,
+by the name of _Muley Solyman_; and having collected a strong force,
+aided by the counsels of a number of brave and experienced officers,
+he advanced to Mequinez, which he reduced, after two successive
+pitched battles.  This place was defended by one of his brothers, who
+shortly after acknowledged him as Emperor, joined him, and brought
+over to his interests a great number of friends and partisans.  He
+served Solyman faithfully ever after, which enabled him to withstand
+the united forces of his two other brothers. At length, owing to the
+little harmony that prevailed in the armies of his competitors, he
+effected his purpose. Taking advantage of their increasing animosity,
+he advanced towards Morocco, fighting and conquering the whole way. He
+entered the capital in triumph, after a general and decisive battle;
+and he was again proclaimed Emperor.
+
+This brave young prince had now reduced Barbary entirely under his
+sway, with the exception of the kingdom of Tangiers.  Thither the two
+unfortunate princes retired, in order to make a last and desperate
+stand; but after a variety of struggles, to regain some degree of
+ascendancy, one was compelled to solicit the protection of the Dey of
+Algiers, and the other was taken prisoner, and banished to a remote
+province.
+
+From that period, the Emperor has dedicated the whole of his time and
+pursuits to the amelioration of his people's condition, by improving
+his financial resources, and appointing over his provinces, mild and
+humane Governors, whom he strictly superintends, occasionally deposing
+such as have deviated from his orders, and often inflicting upon these
+his representatives the most severe corporal punishments, previous to
+their imprisonment for life.
+
+LETTER XIII.
+
+
+_Responsibility of the Governors--Empire beautiful and
+productive--Humane Efforts of the Emperor--Blind Submission to his
+Will--Great Number of Negroes naturalized--The Moors might be truly
+formidable.--Emperor's Brother--Fez divided into two
+Parts--Magnificent Mosques--Commercial Privileges--Indignities which
+Christians undergo--Singular Supply of Water--The Imperial
+Gardens--Propensity to
+defraud--Factories--Exports--Costume--Character--Manner of
+living--Domestic Vermin._
+
+
+Fez.
+
+Having extended my last letter to an unusual length, I broke off
+rather abruptly; I shall therefore resume the subject in this.
+
+The Governors commanding large districts or provinces in Barbary, are
+answerable for the crimes and misdemeanors committed in their
+governments, if they fail to bring the offenders to public justice;
+consequently they impose very heavy fines on the community, to impel
+them to seize, and deliver to them, the murderer or robber. The sudden
+and frequent changes in the public offices keep the most powerful
+Governors in the empire in continual awe and depression; and the fear
+of being, in an instant, hurled from the height of prosperity to the
+lowest abyss of adversity, usually prevents them from amassing great
+wealth, as it is sure to pass into the Emperor's treasury on their
+disgrace; and the same cause prevents the forming of dangerous
+cabals. Yet some of them contrive, during their short-lived
+administration, to squeeze from their wretched vassals as much money
+as they can, by every fraudful artifice and despotic violence. The
+sufferers murmur, and complain; but the government appears to wink at
+the oppression for a time, and reserves its dreadful vengeance till
+the annual review, on the plains of Fez, where the collected spoils of
+the cruel peculator are seized, and himself deposed, imprisoned, and
+the whole fruit of his rapine transferred to the royal treasury.
+
+This empire is one of the most beautiful and fertile countries,
+perhaps in the world; but the despotism under which it has groaned,
+and the capricious humours of its former rulers, destroyed, and
+prevented the effects of industry; besides, the rapacity of the
+Sheiks, who are the Bashaws of the country, carried off every thing
+that labour could collect.  The present Emperor is endeavouring to
+correct these abuses, and to bring about a reformation, which I am
+sure he will never effect, owing to the great influence of the priests
+and saints in these states. Although this monarch is humane and
+impartial, and possesses nothing of the ferocious character of his
+predecessors, yet seldom a day passes without some executions.
+
+The people regard their Emperor as a god upon earth, and revere him as
+a descendant of their great prophet. All his commands, right or wrong,
+just or unjust, they consider as the decrees of Heaven. A blind
+obedience to the will of their Sovereign, is inculcated in the minds
+of their youth, more as a matter of religion than of state; and the
+Emperor may put as many of his subjects to death as he deems
+expedient, without assigning any other motive for so doing than secret
+inspiration. When at war with any Christian prince, it is considered
+as a war of religion, and the Moors who fall in the field of battle,
+are accounted martyrs.
+
+The number of negroes that have been imported into this country, and
+are now settled in these states, is astonishing. The amount is little
+less than three hundred thousand.  The Emperor's body-guard, which
+consists of eighteen thousand horsemen, is chiefly composed of
+negroes, who enjoy every privilege that despotic power can confer, and
+are ready upon all occasions to enforce the royal mandate.
+
+The great schools for the Moorish gentry are the chanceries of the
+Bashaws, where the young men learn the arts of dissimulation and
+duplicity in the greatest perfection, and become, very, early such
+great adepts in these valuable acquirements, that in my opinion they
+are fully able to cope with Monsieur Talleyrand, and the best
+politicians at the court of St. Cloud.  They are very dexterous also
+in the art of temporizing with an enemy, and deluding him by a
+thousand little expedients. It is therefore fortunate for Europe, that
+the Moors are so indolent a set of people; for the immense power this
+empire might have; were it peopled by an industrious and ambitious
+race of men, would render it the most formidable in the world.
+
+I shall now return to my own affairs, from the period at which they
+were left off in a former letter. The Emperor had requested me to
+report to him, personally, every morning, the state of his favourite
+Sultana; I therefore waited upon him regularly at five o'clock, and
+was extremely happy that I was enabled to make the report more welcome
+each day.  After this visit to His Imperial Majesty, I daily paid my
+devoirs to the blind prince, the only remaining brother of the Emperor
+now in Barbary, and who took no part in the disputes of former times;
+and I then called upon the great officers of state.
+
+Finding the Sultana in such a fair way of recovery, the Emperor
+dismissed his Governors to their respective provinces, and removed his
+court to Mequinez, his favourite summer residence, leaving me here, to
+complete the cure of the Sultana, and to attend several of his
+subjects, who stand high in his favour, in the lower town of Fez. As
+the attendance required by my patients does not occupy the whole of my
+time, I employ my leisure in observing such things as appear most
+worthy of remark.
+
+The town (or rather _towns_ of Fez, this city being divided into two
+distinct parts, the one called Upper, the other Lower Fez) is the
+capital of the kingdom of that name, and is supposed to contain about
+three hundred thousand inhabitants, besides foreigners of their own
+persuasion. There are upwards of five hundred mosques: one of them in
+particular, which was built by Edris the Second, and in which his
+remains were deposited, is magnificent beyond description, and is
+about a mile and a half in circumference. There is another very little
+inferior to this, which was erected by the Arabs of Caiwan, and
+called _Carubin_. The other mosques have been constructed since. To
+most of the mosques are annexed several colleges, religious schools,
+and hospitals for the pilgrims who visit this place, for, in point of
+holiness, it is considered as next to Mecca and Medina.
+
+The lower town of Fez was built by Edris the Second, about the end of
+the eighth century, and is taken notice of by Pliny under the name of
+_Volubilis_. According to that author, and others, this city ranked
+amongst the principal inland towns of Mauritania, and was a Roman
+colony. It is a place of considerable trade; the inhabitants are
+mostly freed men, engaged in commerce, and reputed to be very opulent
+and industrious; they have purchased a charter, by which they ensure a
+kind of independence, and are totally unmolested in their traffic; in
+short, there are great privileges attached to this town, which are not
+to be met with in any other part of Barbary.  The lower town is almost
+entirely surrounded by hills, which are highly cultivated, and abound
+with vineyards, and gardens producing most exquisite fruits.
+
+Upper Fez is situated on one of the highest of the hills which almost
+encircle the lower town, and contains the imperial palace and
+seraglio, several old palaces occupied by the sons of the Emperor, and
+the habitations of the principal officers in the household. Contiguous
+to these, is the inclosed town belonging solely to the Jews, who are
+about thirty thousand in number, having one hundred and fifty
+synagogues. On that part of the wall of the Jewish town which
+overlooks Lower Fez, are placed several heavy pieces of ordnance,
+which, in case of an insurrection in the latter, would very soon
+demolish it: as the lower town is by much the most populous and
+extensive, this precaution may not be unnecessary.  The Jewish town is
+commanded by an Alcaid, who cannot however shield its unfortunate
+inhabitants from oppression and insults.  These people are obliged to
+walk barefooted through the Moorish streets; and they suffer the
+greatest outrages without a murmur, nay, some of them have been
+actually murdered in the act of selling their goods to the Moors.  No
+Christian is allowed to appear publicly in the streets of Fez, without
+a special permission from the Emperor, and a military escort.
+
+These towns are supplied with water in a most singular manner from a
+river, called _Rasalema_, which takes its source in a valley near the
+road to Mequinez. It issues from a rock, about eight or ten feet above
+the ground, in a stream, that, from the form of the valley through
+which it runs, appears a continued waterfall. It is conveyed into the
+Emperor's garden by means of a large wheel, about twenty-five feet in
+diameter, round which, at regular distances, are small buckets, which,
+as the wheel goes round, are alternately filled, and emptied into a
+reservoir at the top of the wall of the garden. From the reservoir the
+water is also conveyed to the upper and lower towns by aqueducts.
+
+On the outside of one of the western gates of Upper Fez are the
+gardens of the Emperor, surrounded by a good stone wall, within which
+are a number of spacious walks, shaded by rows of tall trees, on each
+side, and intersected by parterres and grass-plots, on which are
+elegant pavilions, some in a pyramidical, others in a conical form,
+where the Emperor frequently retires, to take his repose, or to amuse
+himself with his courtiers.  These pavilions are between thirty and
+forty feet in height, covered on the outside with varnished tiles of
+different colours, and contain three and sometimes four neat
+apartments, furnished in the most simple style imaginable, having in
+general nothing more than a carpet, several couches, a few
+arm-chairs, a table, a clock, and a tea-equipage of china. The
+cornices round the walls of these apartments are embellished with
+passages from the Koran, and other Arabic sentences, carved in
+cedar-wood.
+
+The propensity to cheating, so prevalent in all Barbary, is no where
+so notorious as in the lower town of Fez; and the Europeans who trade
+with the Moorish merchants here must employ the same means as
+themselves, or submit to be most flagitiously imposed upon.
+
+I have visited several manufactories of carpets, mats, silk, linen,
+and leather, of which the merchants export great quantities.  I have
+also seen some beautifully embroidered shawls, scarfs, and
+sword-knots, of the manufacture of this country. Their exports besides
+are, elephants' teeth, ostrich feathers, copper, tin, wool, hides,
+honey, wax, dates, raisins, olives, almonds, gum-arabic, and
+sandrach. They carry on a considerable trade, by caravans, to Mecca
+and Medina, the inland regions of Africa, and to the farthermost parts
+of the coast of Guinea; from which last place they bring gold-dust,
+and a prodigious number of negroes, some of whom are destined to serve
+in the Emperor's armies; the rest are slaves in the Moorish houses and
+fields.
+
+The dress of the Moors is composed of a linen shirt, over which they
+fasten a cloth or silk vestment with a sash, loose trowsers reaching
+to the knee, a white serge cloak, or capote, and yellow slippers:
+their arms and legs are quite bare. The principal people are
+distinguished by the fineness of their turbans, their linen shirts,
+and cloth or silk garments, which are richly embroidered with gold;
+when they go abroad, they cover this dress with an alhaik, differing
+in quality according to the circumstances of the wearer; and which
+they fold round them like a large blanket. They never move their
+turbans, but pull off their slippers, when they attend religious
+duties, or their Sovereign, or visit their relatives, friends,
+priests, or civil and military officers.
+
+The Moorish gentry are clean in their persons, in their manners
+tolerably genteel and complaisant, far from being loquacious, though
+not prone to reflection. They possess an unbounded degree of duplicity
+and flattery; are perfectly strangers to the notions of truth and
+honour, promising a thing one day which they utterly deny the
+next. They are less irascible than many other nations; but when
+grossly injured, seek revenge in assassination.  They are more
+vindictive than brave, more superstitious than devout, firmly attached
+to their ancient customs, and wholly averse to every kind of
+innovation.
+
+The Moors, in general, are extremely fond of fruit and vegetables,
+which contribute very much to their contentment. The peasants eat meat
+only on certain great days.  They are excessively dirty in their
+cooking, and the style of their dishes is not at all adapted to the
+taste of an Englishman. Their soups are made most intolerably hot with
+spices; and their favourite dish is _cous-ca-sou_, which appears to me
+to be prepared in the following manner: The meat and vegetables are
+laid alternately in a large bowl, and seasoned; then the whole is
+covered with fine wheaten flour, made into small grains, very like the
+Italian pastes. It is raised into the form of a pyramid, and I should
+imagine stewed, or rather steamed, as the outside remains perfectly
+white, which it would not were it baked. The whole of the inside, when
+brought to table, is mingled almost into one mass; the meat separating
+from the bones, without the smallest difficulty: it does not contain
+any gravy, and the Moors eat it by handsfull.
+
+I generally live upon mutton and veal, both of which are very good:
+the bread and butter are excellent, but the latter will not keep more
+than twenty-four hours without becoming rancid. My greatest annoyance
+here is the infinite number of bugs and fleas, which infest me by day
+and night most intolerably.
+
+LETTER XIV.
+
+
+_Fez--Debility of the Moors--Mosques--Antiquities, Roman,
+Carthaginian, and Saracen--Storks held in great Veneration--Baths--
+Bazars--Inhabitants--Residence--Menagerie--Marvellous Preservation of
+a Jew--Lions--Tigers--Leopards--Hyenas._
+
+
+_Fez_, ----.
+
+Considering the mildness of the climate, the uncommon fertility of the
+soil, the number of mineral waters, the fragrancy and salubrity of the
+air, one would imagine that the frame and constitution of a Moor
+cannot but be beautiful, strong, and healthy; yet, though the most
+handsome people of both sexes are to be met with in this great city,
+the number of miserable objects, the wretched victims of excessive
+early passions, is in a much larger proportion: it is shocking beyond
+description to meet them in every corner of the streets. I have
+visited a great many of these poor creatures, and found them in such a
+state, that decency obliges me to draw a veil over it.
+
+The mosques of this town, which I have before mentioned as very
+numerous, are square buildings, and generally of stone; before the
+principal gate there is a court paved with white marble, with piazzas
+round, the roofs of which are supported by marble columns.  In niches
+within these piazzas, the Moors perform their ablutions before they
+enter the mosques. Attached to each mosque is a tower, with three
+small open galleries, one above another, whence the people are called
+to prayer, not by a bell, but by an officer appointed for that
+duty. These towers, as well as the mosques, are covered with lead, and
+adorned with gilding, and tiles of variegated colours. No woman is
+allowed to enter the Moorish places of worship.
+
+Several of the aqueducts, which were constructed by the Carthaginians
+and Romans, are still to be seen; and the ruins of amphitheatres, and
+other public buildings, are found in the town and neighbourhood of
+Fez: likewise many Saracen monuments of the most stupendous
+magnificence, which were erected under the Caliphs of Bagdad. The
+mosques and ruins are frequented by a great number of storks, which
+are very tame, and are regarded by the Moors as a kind of inferior
+saints.
+
+The baths here are wonderfully well constructed for the purpose. Some
+of them are square buildings, but the greater part are circular, paved
+with black or white polished marble, and containing three rooms: the
+first for undressing and dressing, the second for the water, and in
+the third is the bath.  Their manner of bathing is very curious: the
+attendant rubs the person with great force, then pulls and stretches
+the limbs, as if he meant to dislocate every joint. This exercise to
+these indolent people is very conducive to health.
+
+The bazars in which the tradesmen have their shops, are very
+extensive. These shops are filled with all kinds of merchandise. In
+the centre of the town is a rectangular building, with colonnades,
+where the principal merchants attend daily to transact business.
+
+The inhabitants of Fez are of a large muscular stature, fair
+complexion, with black beards and eyes; extremely amorous and jealous
+of their women, whom they keep strictly guarded. Their houses consist
+of four wings, forming a court in the centre, round which is an
+arcade, or piazza, with one spacious apartment on each side. The court
+is paved with square pieces of marble, and has a basin of the same in
+the centre, with a fountain. They keep their houses remarkably clean
+and neat; but all the streets of this immense town are narrow, very
+badly paved with large irregular stones, and most shockingly
+dirty. The tops of their houses, like those of Tetuan, and other towns
+in Barbary, are flat, for the purpose of recreation.
+
+Among the remnants of several amphitheatres, there is one very nearly
+entire, which is kept in constant repair at the expense of the
+Emperor, and appropriated as a menagerie for lions, tigers, and
+leopards. As I was contemplating it the other day, I felt at a loss to
+account for this being kept in repair, while the others were suffered
+to moulder into dust, unheeded, excepting a very few, and those but
+partially prevented from sharing the general wreck. I had stood some
+time, thus employed, when I was suddenly interrupted in my
+meditations, by the sound of voices close behind me; on turning I
+perceived two Jews, one of whom I knew very well, from having given
+advice to some part of his family. I immediately inquired how it
+happened that the building before us was so carefully preserved from
+going to ruin, as happened to most of the others. He informed me, that
+it was a kind of menagerie for wild beasts. "It was the same in the
+time of the late Emperor," continued he; "and a very curious incident
+befell one of my brethren in that place." As the narrative was not
+merely very curious, but really wonderful, I cannot forbear sending
+you the substance of it; as to give it you in the very circuitous way
+it came to me, would be rather a tax upon your patience, particularly,
+as you may not be so destitute of resources of amusement, as, I
+confess, I was at that moment.
+
+It appears, that Muley Yezid, the late Emperor, had a great and
+invincible antipathy to the Jews (indeed it was but too evident in the
+horrible transaction I mentioned in a former letter). An unfortunate
+Israelite, having incurred the displeasure of that prince, was
+condemned to be devoured by a ferocious lion, which had been purposely
+left without food for twenty-four hours: when the animal was raging
+with hunger, the poor Jew had a rope fastened round his waist, and in
+the presence of a great concourse of people was let down into the den;
+his supplications for mercy, and screams of terror, availing him
+nothing. The man gave himself up for lost, expecting every moment to
+be torn in pieces by the almost famished beast, who was roaring most
+hideously; he threw himself on the ground in an agony of mind, much
+better conceived than described. While in this attitude, the animal
+approached him, ceased roaring, smelt him two or three times, then
+walked majestically round him, and gave him now and then a gentle
+whisk with his tail, which seemed to signify that he might rise, as he
+would not hurt him; finding the man still continue motionless with
+fear, he retreated a few paces, and laid himself down like a
+dog. After a short time had elapsed, the Jew, recovering from his
+insensibility, and perceiving himself unmolested, ventured to raise
+himself up, and observing the noble animal couched, and no symptom of
+rage or anger in his countenance, he felt animated with confidence. In
+short, they became quite friendly, the lion suffering himself to be
+caressed by the Jew with the utmost tameness. It ended with the man
+being drawn up again unhurt, to the great astonishment of the
+spectators. A heifer was afterwards let down, and instantly devoured.
+You may be sure this story was too great a triumph on the part of the
+Israelites, to pass without a number of annotations and reflections
+from the narrator, all tending to prove the victory of their nation
+over the heathens.  For my part, I could not help thinking that there
+was too much of the miraculous in it. However, I have often heard it
+asserted that the lion will never touch a man who is either dead, or
+counterfeits death; indeed here they tell me, that, unless pressed by
+hunger or rage, it never molests a man; and they assure me even that
+upon no account will these animals injure a woman, but, on the
+contrary, will protect her, when they meet her at a
+watering-place. This country abounds with lions, tigers, leopards, and
+hyenas, which sometimes make nocturnal visits to the villages, and
+spread desolation among the sheep and cattle.
+
+LETTER XV.
+
+_Sudden Departure from Fez--Arrive at Mequinez--Attend the
+Emperor--Melancholy Catastrophe--Expedition against wild
+Beasts--Extensive Palaces--Seraglio--Visit a Haram--Founders of the
+City--A fortified Town--Inhabitants--Jewish Town--Rich Attire of the
+higher Orders--Numerous Market-places--Furniture--Saints'
+Houses--Imperial Field Sports--Pack of Greyhounds--Abundance of Game._
+
+
+Mequinez.
+
+No doubt, my dear D----, you will be very much surprised to observe my
+letter dated from this place. I assure you I had not the most distant
+idea, when I wrote last, of removing so suddenly from Fez. On the
+evening of the same day that I dispatched my letter to you, as I was
+preparing for rest, an express arrived from the Emperor, begging me to
+repair hither without delay. Concluding that nothing less than life or
+death depended on my speedy arrival, I accordingly renounced the
+pleasures of the drowsy god for a very uneasy seat on the back of a
+mule, and at midnight set off for this place, leaving my baggage and
+attendants to follow in the morning.  I rode very fast all night, and
+arrived here about nine o'clock the next day. When I dismounted, I was
+so extremely stiff, that it was with the utmost difficulty I could
+stand; I was most dreadfully fatigued, and stood in very great need of
+repose; but waving all selfish considerations, I thought only of being
+serviceable, and therefore lost no time in waiting on the Emperor. He
+received me in the kindest and most flattering manner, and expressed
+great pleasure at seeing me; but I found my patient's case not so very
+urgent as I had imagined; a few hours delay would not have endangered
+the life of any human being, and it would have saved _one_, some
+aching bones. However, after dispatching the case in point as
+expeditiously as possible, I soon made amends for my deprivation, by
+indulging in a little longer repose than usual, and on awaking I felt
+myself quite refreshed, and rather pleased than otherwise at finding
+myself thus suddenly at Mequinez; for having before passed the road
+more leisurely, and observed every thing worthy of remark, I did not
+so much regret that my journey had been performed during the night.
+
+I have been four days here, and yesterday I was called upon to attend
+the captain of a band of huntsmen, who were that morning returned from
+an expedition, in which they lost three of their companions, and only
+succeeded in saving their chief, and bringing him to this place, by
+little short of a miracle.  He has been lacerated in a most dreadful
+manner; his head is nearly scalped, and part of the integuments of his
+arms and back inverted.  His condition is certainly dangerous; but, as
+he is a young and healthy subject, I do not despair of effecting his
+recovery.
+
+I have learned the following particulars of this melancholy
+catastrophe.  About fifty resolute young men marched hence, all armed
+and well stocked with ammunition and provisions, and accompanied by a
+mountaineer, who acted as guide. Their primary object was to destroy
+six young lions, that had committed terrible devastation in one of
+their villages; compelled the inhabitants to flee precipitately; and
+themselves remained sole masters of the _citadel_. After a march of
+three days, they arrived at the scene of action, and succeeded in
+destroying those lions; but hearing that there were more in the
+neighbourhood, they prepared to encounter them also. By order of this
+young man, who was chief of the company, they separated in five
+divisions, and repaired to different posts on the borders of the
+forest, to wait the arrival of the lions. They had not remained long,
+ere the terrific roar of these animals commenced, the sound approached
+nearer and nearer to their place of concealment, and one of the lions
+passed close to a party, and received the fire of their pieces; the
+animal darted upon them in return, before they could charge again, and
+three unfortunate men fell victims to his rage.  The creature finding
+he had more enemies to contend with, and his wounds beginning to
+smart, retreated to a cover, where he sat licking them, and meditating
+another attack.  He was on the point of springing on the captain, who
+had approached nearer to him than the rest, when the young man
+discharged his musket, the contents of which entered, and dislocated,
+the lower jaw of the enraged animal.  The instant the youth had fired,
+he retreated with the utmost precipitation towards his companions, but
+his foot unfortunately slipping, he fell prostrate between two stones:
+in which position the lion assailed him; and being unable to tear him
+in pieces with his teeth, in consequence of the wound in his jaw, he
+made use of his tremendous paws, and would undoubtedly have destroyed
+him, but for the timely assistance of his comrades.  The animal was so
+intent on the destruction of his enemy, that he received a close fire
+from two muskets, the muzzles of which nearly touched him.  He no
+sooner found himself mortally wounded, than, raising the almost
+lifeless man in both paws, he dashed him on the ground, and fell dead
+by his side.
+
+The man received a very severe contusion on his bead, which deprived
+him of sense for some time, and is what I dread the most in his
+case. His wounds were dressed by his companions in the best manner
+they could, and he was brought hither. The Emperor has very liberally
+rewarded him and his party, and made a handsome provision for the
+widows and children of those poor fellows who fell in the
+expedition. I sincerely hope this man may recover to enjoy the
+munificence of his Sovereign.
+
+I have most excellent quarters here, contiguous to one of the palaces,
+and am allowed to walk or ride in the Imperial gardens, which are very
+extensive. The Emperor's palaces here, are much upon the same plan,
+with those at Fez, but larger. One of them is about three miles in
+circumference. All the apartments are on the ground floor, and are
+large long rooms, about twenty feet in height, receiving air from two
+folding doors which open into a square court, with a portico round,
+embellished with colonnades.  The walls of the rooms are faced with
+glazed tiles, and the floors paved with the same, which gives an air
+of coolness and neatness, so desirable in this warm climate.
+
+The seraglio of the Emperor, and indeed the harams of men of less
+rank, are sacred.  No strangers are admitted, and it is profanation in
+a man to enter; but as a _tweeb_, I am privileged, and enjoy a
+liberty, never granted before.  The day after my arrival, His
+Excellency the _Sheik_ called upon me, and requested me to go home
+with him.  He informed me that he had been assured, in the most
+positive manner, by all the doctors, and female attendants, that his
+wife had a dead child in her, and that nothing less than a miracle of
+their great Prophet could save her.  The poor man was very much
+agitated while giving me this account. I find she is his favourite
+wife, and no wonder, for she is a very lovely woman.  Upon
+examination, I found that what they imagined to be a dead child, is a
+protuberant hardness in the region of the liver, extending nearly all
+over the abdomen.  The tumefaction was considered as a case of
+pregnancy; and she having considerably passed her time, the child was
+thought to be dead within her. I have begun a course of medicine,
+which I flatter myself will entirely eradicate the disorder.
+
+My stay was so very short, when I was here before, that I could give
+you no account of the town, &c.  The city of Mequinez is in the
+kingdom of Fez, and thirty miles from the capital of that name.  The
+dynasty of _Mequinez_ were the founders of this town, which they
+erected upon the ruins of the old one.  Stephanus takes notice of it,
+by the name of _Gilda_, and says, that it was a place of great note.
+Marmol also asserts, that the present Mequinez answers in every
+respect to the ancient _Gilda_.  It was considerably enlarged by Muley
+Ishmael, who (as well as several other Moorish princes, successively)
+defended himself in this place, against the attacks of the
+mountaineers.  Several lines of circumvallation and intrenchments are
+still to be seen.
+
+It is surrounded with walls, and fortified by two bastions; but has no
+artillery. It contains about one hundred thousand inhabitants;
+twenty-five thousand of whom are Jews, who have a town of their own,
+irregularly fortified, and guarded by a strong force, under the
+direction of an Alcaid, who is styled the Governor of the Jews.
+
+There is not the smallest difference, in the construction of these
+houses, from those of Fez; though the inhabitants differ very
+materially.  The men are of a short, thick, muscular make, and swarthy
+complexion, with long black beards and black eyes. The women are
+excessively handsome, and remarkably fair; nor are they devoid of
+neatness and elegance in their dress. They improve the beauty of their
+eyes with paint.
+
+The Moorish inhabitants of this city are all militia-men, entirely at
+the disposal of the Emperor. They are excellent horsemen, expert at
+the sword and lance; and with fire-arms most admirable marksmen. They
+are generally considered barbarous and ferocious.
+
+The people of distinction go about richly attired, having much gold
+and silver on their clothes. They take great pains in cleaning their
+teeth, combing their long beards, and keeping their nails pared
+extremely close.
+
+The streets of this town are not paved; and the soil being clay, they
+must be very disagreeable in winter; for, after a heavy shower of
+rain, they are almost impassable from the accumulation of mud in every
+quarter. The market-places, with which this place abounds, are long,
+narrow, arched or covered streets, with small shops on each side,
+superintended by a Cadi, and an officer under him, for the purpose of
+collecting the duties on the sale of goods, &c. The chief furniture of
+the houses consists of beautiful carpets, cushions, and mattresses,
+upon which they sit and lie.
+
+In and about the neighbourhood of this place are several saints'
+houses, near which no Christian, nor Jew, is allowed to pass. The most
+remarkable is the _hospitium_ of Sidi-el-Marti.
+
+The Emperor's favourite diversions, while here, are shooting and
+hunting, in both of which I am told he excels. He keeps a large pack
+of greyhounds, as fine as any I have seen in England. His
+pleasure-grounds, and park, in the vicinity of this town, abound in
+all kinds of game, hares, rabbits, and deer, and in wild boars and
+foxes.
+
+LETTER XVI.
+
+_Courtship_--_Marriage_--_Funerals_--_Sabbath_.
+
+
+Mequinez.
+
+I shall now give you an account of the manner in which the marriages
+are invariably negotiated and conducted in this country. A female, the
+confidential friend of the suitor, is dispatched to observe and report
+the beauty and accomplishments of the young lady; and when those are
+found to be perfectly adapted to the gentleman's taste, she is further
+delegated to sound his eulogium, and by every means, such as
+presenting her with valuable jewels, &c. to ingratiate him in the good
+opinion of the fair one. When this curious courtship ends, by terms
+being agreed upon, the destined bridegroom pays down a sum of money to
+the bride, a license is taken out from the Cadi, and the parties are
+married. I send you a description of a marriage-ceremony, at which I
+was present the other day.
+
+The bridegroom (who is one of the officers of the household) came out
+of his house, attended by a vast number of his friends, and mounted
+one of the best horses belonging to the Emperor, most curiously and
+richly caparisoned.  He carried his sword unsheathed, and was preceded
+by a splendid standard, and a band of music; he was followed by a kind
+of palanquin, supported on the shoulders of four stout black slaves, a
+detachment of cavalry firing off their pieces every minute, and a
+procession of relatives and friends, the whole moving with great mirth
+and jollity,
+
+Before they reached the house of the bride, the cavalcade halted, and
+the bridegroom dismounted, assisted by his negro slaves, and knocked
+loudly at the door three times. The lady was brought out in a covered
+chair, attended by four women, completely muffled up.  The whole party
+of the bridegroom turned their backs, and she was smuggled into the
+palanquin: they then returned in the same style to the house of her
+lord, where, before she was allowed to enter, he placed himself at the
+entrance, and extending his right arm across the door-way, she passed
+under, as an indication of her voluntary and unconditional submission
+to his will and pleasure.
+
+After this ceremony, the bridegroom was obliged to retire to the house
+of his nearest relation, where he continued three days and nights,
+feasting, and receiving presents from all his male friends, while the
+bride was paid the same compliments by her female acquaintance.  At
+the expiration of the appointed time, the gentleman returned to his
+own house.
+
+The Moors are not allowed by their law more than four wives, but they
+may have as many concubines as they can maintain; accordingly, the
+wealthy Moors, besides their wives, keep a kind of seraglio of women
+of all colours.
+
+From their marriages, I am insensibly led to the subject of the burial
+of their dead. Not that any idea strikes me of an analogy between the
+situations of a married person, and one consigned to the "_narrow
+house_," as Ossian poetically styles the grave; but from a certain
+succession of thought, for which one is at a loss to account. In the
+burial of their dead, they are decent and pious, without pomp or
+show. The corpse is attended by the relations and friends, chanting
+passages from the Koran, to the mosque, where it is washed, and it is
+afterwards interred in a place at some distance from the town, the
+Iman, or priest, pronouncing an oration, containing the eulogy of the
+deceased. The male relations express their regard by alms and prayers,
+the women by ornamenting the tomb with flowers and green leaves. Their
+term of mourning is the same as ours, twelve months, during which
+period the widows divest themselves of every ornament, and appear
+habited in the coarsest attire.  Their burial-grounds are inclosed by
+cypress and other dark lofty trees, the lower parts of which are
+interwoven with odoriferous shrubs and creeping plants, forming an
+almost impenetrable hedge. Some of their tombs are very curious,
+though they exhibit specimens of the rudest architecture. There are
+also several saints' houses in their burying-places, which render
+them doubly sacred; and no Christian or Jew is suffered to enter, on
+pain of death.
+
+Friday being their Sabbath, the day is kept perfectly holy; all the
+Moors are employed in prayer, reading the Koran, or visiting the tombs
+of their departed friends.
+
+Curiosity prompted me to go and see an assemblage of fanatics, at a
+celebrated saint's house, in the neighbourhood of this town.  They
+were to perform many wonderful things, such as tearing a live sheep in
+pieces, and devouring the flesh, fighting with wild beasts, and
+several other barbarous exhibitions. These people, called in Barbary
+_Free Masons_, are nothing more than a set of canting, roaring
+companions, surcharged with wine and other liquors, and assembled in
+this holy place, for the sole purpose of giving free vent to their
+brutal passions. This society is peculiar to itself, having no
+connexion with our ancient or modern Free Masons. I have however
+obtained a free access to their saints' houses and secret meetings,
+with permission to go any where unmolested; but I always take the
+precaution to go well armed, and escorted by the Emperor's guards, as
+nothing can exceed the barbarous acts of this fanatic set of people.
+
+I am extremely happy to say, that my most sanguine expectations with
+regard to the poor man, whose accident I mentioned in my last, are
+realized; every unfavourable symptom has vanished, and I can safely
+rely on his perfect recovery. The complaint of my female patient has
+also given way to a proper course of medicine, and the Governor is one
+of the happiest of men. When I announced the pleasing intelligence of
+her disease being removed, he embraced me with such ecstacy that I
+almost dreaded suffocation; in short, he has spared nothing that can
+evince his gratitude and satisfaction, for what he terms the
+inestimable benefit I have conferred upon him.
+
+The country round this city is inexpressibly rich and beautiful, being
+laid put for several miles in gardens, abounding in flowers and
+fruit-trees; among the latter the vine sands pre-eminent, yielding
+most delicious grapes.  The air here, as in the other parts of
+Barbary, is very pure and salubrious.
+
+LETTER XVII.
+
+_Depart for Morocco--Roads dreadfully infested, by Robbers--A Tribe of
+aboriginal Freebooters--Description of Morocco--Filth of the common
+People--Tobacco disallowed--Justice of the Emperor_.
+
+
+Mequinez
+
+Since I wrote last, I have taken a trip to Morocco and back again. As
+I had a great deal of leisure time, and every thing here having lost
+the attraction of novelty, I determined to go further up the interior
+of the country; and accordingly applied to the Emperor for permission
+to visit Morocco, which he granted, but with the injunction that I
+should return as quickly as possible.
+
+I set off, accompanied by my usual guard, which I assure you I never
+found so necessary as on this journey; for the rapacious spirit of the
+peasantry exposed us continually to the danger of being plundered, we
+were therefore obliged to keep watch alternately, to prevent our
+property, perhaps our lives, becoming a prey to these wretches. The
+neighbourhood of Morocco is dreadfully infested by robbers and
+assassins.
+
+The inhabitants of the empire of Morocco, that are not in a military
+capacity, or otherwise immediately in the service of the Emperor, are
+miserably poor; and the natural indolence of their disposition
+preventing them from making any laudable exertions towards gaining a
+livelihood, they have recourse to every means of fraud and
+violence. It is astonishing how frequently assassinations and
+robberies are committed in this empire, notwithstanding the ruffians,
+when detected, are punished in the most exemplary manner, by the right
+hand and left foot being cut off, and the head afterwards being
+severed from the body.  The relations of the murderer are all fined
+very heavily, and the judgment often extends to the whole village,
+near which the crime had been perpetrated; yet seldom a day passes but
+some daring robbery is committed, accompanied by the most wanton and
+savage cruelty; the unhappy victim of the plunderer being frequently
+left in the public roads in a most shocking state of mutilation.
+
+Another ostensible cause of the dereliction of the peasantry from the
+laws of humanity, may be the extreme oppression under which they
+groan; as, on account of their former propensity to rebellion, they
+are now ruled with a rod of iron, which in all probability has
+rendered them callous, and deaf to the voice of nature. But,
+independently of these occasional depredations, there is a band of
+vagrants, who are actuated by no other motives, than what their own
+black hearts suggest.  They inhabit caves in the sides of enormous
+rocky precipices, and go entirely naked: their principal food is the
+flesh of wild beasts. This tribe of freebooters appears to be quite a
+distinct set of people; they seem to have an invincible aversion to
+the Mahometan religion, and worship the _sun_ and _fire_; they speak a
+different language from the rest of the inhabitants, a mixture of
+African and the _old_ Arabic; all which circumstances favour their own
+report of themselves, which is, that they are the genuine descendants
+of the original inhabitants. They look down upon the more civilized
+Moors with contempt, and consider them as the real usurpers of their
+country, and the plunderers of their property.  They subsist chiefly
+by rapine, and frequently throw a whole village into consternation by
+their nocturnal visits; yet their cunning and dexterity are so great,
+that they almost constantly elude the vigilance of justice: indeed,
+they are never forced from their places of retreat (which are
+inaccessible to all but themselves), but when taken, it is either in
+the act of robbing, or when they venture to the markets or fairs; and
+then the capture is not effected without a strong body of the
+military.
+
+I was much disappointed on my arrival at Morocco with the appearance
+of the place; for, instead of finding it, as I expected, superior to
+Fez and Mequinez, I found it a large ruinous town, almost without
+inhabitants.  It contains, indeed, a great many mosques, caravanseras,
+public baths, marketplaces or squares, and palaces of the Xeriffes,
+but all in almost deplorable state of ruin. Not many years since, this
+city was the Imperial residence, and contained six hundred and fifty
+thousand inhabitants; but the late civil wars, and the plague, which
+raged with such violence, in the beginning of the present Emperor's
+reign, nearly depopulated it. In consequence of the latter melancholy
+event, the court was removed to Fez and Mequinez.  To this account we
+may place the present desolate appearance of Morocco. The Imperial
+palace is, however, kept in repair, as the Emperor goes to Morocco
+annually to spend the fast-days, which are during the months of
+October and November; scarcely one fourth of the other palaces and
+houses are inhabited; but though this city now exhibits evident
+symptoms of rapid decay, we may still form a just idea of its former
+grandeur and magnificence.
+
+The plain of Morocco is bounded by that long ridge of mountains called
+_Atlas_, which screen the town from the scorching heat of the easterly
+winds, while the snow, with which their summits are covered, renders
+the climate more temperate than in other parts of
+Barbary. Notwithstanding the salubrity of the climate of Morocco, a
+residence there is rendered miserable, by the multitudes of scorpions,
+serpents, gnats, and bugs, which infest the town and its
+neighbourhood.
+
+His Imperial Majesty holds a court of justice here, previous to the
+commencement of the holidays, and also issues orders for a general
+ablution by men, women, and children, of every class: this, no doubt,
+is very necessary, as the common people seldom change their linen, and
+the greater part of them are covered with vermin. During the fast they
+dare not touch any food while the sun is up, and when at night they
+are allowed to break their fast, they absolutely make perfect beasts
+of themselves. Smoking, or chewing tobacco, and taking snuff, are
+strictly prohibited, by an edict from the Emperor: the vender is
+punished with the bastinado, and a confiscation of all his goods and
+cattle, and the buyer with six years imprisonment.
+
+Owing to the intense heat of the weather lately, there is a great
+scarcity of water: so that we were obliged to carry it up in bags made
+of goat-skin, to supply us on the road; and coming back we took the
+same precaution.
+
+When at Morocco, I was extremely anxious to visit _Mogedor_, a
+sea-port town, and the island of _Erythia_, now also called Mogedor,
+which island contains a castle of considerable strength, defended by a
+strong garrison, stationed there chiefly, as I have been told, to
+protect the gold-mines in the neighbourhood; but the distance was very
+great, and my time so limited, that I could not spare a fortnight,
+which it would at least have required to get there and back again. I
+have been returned here two days, and, as I observed before, not so
+much gratified as I expected.
+
+As I passed one of the courts of the palace yesterday, a fellow was
+receiving punishment for a robbery. The right hand and foot were
+severed at the articulation, by a single blow of a large axe; the
+stumps were immediately immersed in a vessel of boiling pitch; and in
+this miserable condition he was turned about his business. I once
+attended a man who had suffered these amputations; he soon recovered,
+and, to my great surprise, instead of sorrowing for his loss, he
+skipped about as nimbly as possible, and afterwards enlisted in the
+police. After the fellow was turned away yesterday, a peasant, who had
+walked nearly two hundred miles, presented himself before the Emperor,
+to complain of the Governor of his province, for not having done him
+justice in assisting him to recover a debt of about six shillings. The
+Emperor listened to his grievance, issued an order to enforce the
+payment of the debt, and gave the poor man a sum of money to enable
+him to return home.
+
+LETTER XVIII.
+
+_Moorish Character--Form of Devotion--Meals--Revenue--Poll-tax on the
+Jews--Royal Carriages--Ostrich-riding--Public Schools--Watch-dogs._
+
+
+Mequinez.
+
+The established religion of the Moors is Mahometan. Formerly, as well
+as at present, women were considered by the Moors as the mere objects
+of sensuality, and only esteemed while in full bloom. At the age of
+thirty, or at most forty, they were looked upon as an inferior order
+of beings, and doomed to the most abject and insupportable slavery:
+indeed, the latter circumstance still exists, though considerably
+mitigated. No wonder then that the doctrine of Mahomet should be
+cordially embraced by a people with whose inclinations it so exactly
+coincided. But that part only was adopted, which indulged them in the
+gratification of their wishes; that which imposed restraint was
+renounced, or only nominally acceded to. And fortunate it certainly is
+for the security of the neighbouring countries that they did so; as,
+when formerly they were inured from infancy to all the hardships of a
+warlike life, and possessed much skill in war, they were undoubtedly
+very formidable; but since their conversion to Mahometanism, they have
+gradually become inactive, and their natural passion for war and
+conquest has changed to absolute effeminacy.  The illiterate system of
+the Moors has also completely shut the door against the arts and
+sciences, and all knowledge of the value of a free and secure
+commerce. Yet, notwithstanding this people are no longer either in
+appearance or reality those fierce barbarians they once were, nor can
+their actions in point of valour bear any comparison with those of
+their ancestors, like them they retain a most inveterate antipathy to
+all Christians; and a propensity towards cruelty, revenge, rapine, and
+murder, still continues to form one of the most prominent features of
+their character.  However, under the comparatively mild government of
+the present Emperor, their behaviour towards Christians has visibly
+undergone a favourable change, which would almost persuade some to
+indulge a hope of the entire annihilation of their aversion; but I am
+sorry to add, that I am not so sanguine, as from accurate observation
+I have been led to conclude, that nothing but an immense length of
+time can overcome their habitual prejudices and constitutional
+inclinations.
+
+The male inhabitants of these states are obliged to attend their
+places of public worship four times in the course of twenty-four
+hours. The first prayer begins about half an hour before sun-rising,
+and is so regulated that they may, just as the sun rises, finish eight
+adorations. They pray again at noon, at sun-set, and at midnight: they
+are very fervent in their devotions, and always turn their faces
+towards the east: they fast three times in a year; the first time
+thirty days, the next nine, and the last seven: during these fasts
+they abstain from beans, garlic, and some other pulse and
+vegetables. They call the Almighty, _God of Gods_, and _Lord of
+Lords_; and they all believe that the souls of wicked men will be
+punished till a certain period, when they will be received to mercy.
+
+In the morning, after prayer, they drink strong tea, which they prefer
+to coffee. At eleven o'clock they, go to dinner, which consists of
+fruits, sweetmeats, and their favourite _cous-ca-sou_, piled up in a
+large wooden bowl.  Their chief meal is after their return from
+evening prayer. They eat cakes made of fine wheaten flour; and as they
+consider it a crime to cut bread or meat of any kind after it is
+dressed, these cakes are made so thin that they may be easily broken
+with the hands; and their meat, which is generally mutton or fowls, is
+so prepared that they can without difficulty separate it from the
+bones with their fingers. They sit cross-legged upon cushions, and
+devour their food very greedily and without the least
+ceremony. Although sobriety is strictly enjoined by the Mahometan law,
+yet the Moorish inhabitants of the principal towns in Barbary make
+free with most excellent wines and spirits of their own manufacture.
+
+The revenues of the Emperor have of late augmented prodigiously. He
+receives a tenth part of all the property of his Mahometan subjects;
+and he compels every Jew residing in his dominions to pay a poll-tax
+of six crowns annually. The number of Israelites subject to the
+Emperor of Morocco exceeds one hundred thousand. They are strictly
+guarded, and cruelly oppressed, and are not permitted to quit the
+states without a special leave from the Emperor, to obtain which they
+are obliged to pay down a large sum of money.
+
+The authority of the Emperor is unlimited, as is that of his
+Governors, who possess a power of life and death. No rank nor
+condition of Moors is exempt from taxation, excepting the immediate
+princes of the blood, and the _Xeriffes_, which are the only degrees
+of nobility the Moors have. The Xeriffes are the descendants of their
+monarchs, and their titles are hereditary: but the title of _Sheik_ is
+temporary; so that the respect paid to the Sheiks on account of their
+high situations expires with them.
+
+Coaches, carriages, and palanquins are used only by the Emperor. I
+have seen some, both here and at Fez, which are really elegant; they
+are for the use of his ladies when they go to spend the day in any of
+the Imperial gardens. The Emperor has several very handsome chariots,
+in one of which he usually rides, drawn by six mules. The Moors ride
+on horseback, attended by a number of slaves or soldiers, according to
+their rank and wealth.
+
+The princes of the blood and Xeriffes are not allowed to interfere in
+any political or public business, and are never consulted in state
+affairs. They are generally provided for, with sinecure places to
+support their rank, but many of these are too small to enable them to
+do so. The several Governors of provinces have each a large tract of
+land; and the tax collected from the venders and buyers in the weekly
+markets in their districts is also appropriated by them to defray the
+charges of their retinue and troops. From the vast crown lands in this
+country, the Emperor obtains sufficient for the expenses of the court,
+household, and great officers of state; from which circumstance, and
+what I have before said of his revenues, it is evident that his
+coffers must be most abundantly supplied, and his annual saving in
+ordinary cases very great. A detachment of troops from each province
+is sent every three months to collect the tributes, which are levied
+with the most unrelenting rigour. There are some vestiges of the
+Caliphate government still remaining; for in places where no military
+officer resides, the Mufti, or high-priest, is the fountain of all
+justice; he collects the tributes, and under him the Cadis or civil
+officers act in the same manner as our justices of the peace.
+
+The general language of the country is Arabic; but in the inland
+countries, in the provinces of Suz, Tafilet, and Gessula, the ancient
+African language is still spoken. Those remote districts are now under
+the sovereignty of the Emperor of Morocco; but I am told they contain
+nothing particularly curious, except an immense number of pelicans and
+ostriches, the latter so strong as to be able to carry a man upon
+their backs. I one day saw a Moor riding in a court here upon one,
+which he had got from those parts, and tamed for.  show.
+
+The Moors write in the manner of the Hebrew language, from right to
+left; they are wonderfully expeditious in it, and their seals are very
+neat. Public schools have lately been established in all the towns and
+villages of these states; but, as the children are taught by their
+priests, a set of superstitious and fanatic people, no great benefit,
+to change or improve their manners, can accrue from such an
+institution.
+
+I believe, in a former letter I told you that the peasantry reside in
+tents; I have however observed a few huts built of clay, but very
+few. In the centre of both the huts and tents, there is a hole dug in
+the ground, where they make a fire, with an outlet in the roof to vent
+the smoke. They generally burn wood, or a species of charcoal, in the
+preparation of which they contrive to deprive it of the baneful
+effects usually experienced from the use of it in England. They have
+mats spread round the fire, upon which they sit in the day, and sleep
+at night. They are so parsimonious, that they live the greater part of
+the year on fruit, vegetables, and fish, though they supply the
+markets with abundance of fowls (of which they rear immense numbers),
+butter, &c. &c. Their chief defence at night is their dogs; each tent
+is provided with one, and they are so vigilant, that they give instant
+notice of the approach of intruders; and when the alarm is
+communicated to the whole of them, it is scarcely possible to conceive
+the effect.  The habit of the peasantry is the same both winter and
+summer, and consists of a thick garment (frequently old and tattered),
+a short capote, a greasy turban, and a pair of yellow slippers. They
+sometimes throw round them a coarse white _haik_, which also serves
+for a bed and covering in the night, as many of them lie upon the bare
+ground in the open air before their tents.
+
+In my next I shall give you a short sketch of the produce of this
+fertile country.
+
+LETTER XIX.
+
+
+_Face and Produce of the Empire, natural and artificial_.
+
+Mequinez.
+
+The mountains (the principal of which are Mount Diur, Mount Cotta,
+near the city of Larache, the mountain commonly called _Ape's Hill_,
+between Tangiers and Ceuta, and that remarkable ridge called Mount
+Atlas) contain mines of gold, silver, copper, and tin.
+
+The chief capes or promontories of these states are, Cape Cottes or
+Ampelusia, known to our seafaring people by the name of Cape Spartel,
+the _Promontorium Herculis_, and the _Promontorium Oleastrum_, so
+called from the prodigious number of wild olives growing upon it.
+
+All the bays round the coast furnish an abundance of the most
+delicious fish of every kind; and the several rivers are equally
+productive.  The occasional overflow of the rivers greatly enriches
+and fertilizes the soil, to which, more than to their own industry
+(for they never manure their grounds, and are absolute strangers to
+the art of husbandry), are the Moors indebted for their plentiful
+crops of wheat, Turkey corn, rye, rice, oats, barley, and grain of all
+kinds.
+
+I have before told you that this country abounds in fine fruits. The
+most esteemed are, oranges, grapes, pomegranates, lemons, citrons,
+figs, almonds, and dates. The Moors also grow great quantities of
+excellent hemp and flax. Medicinal herbs and roots are very plentiful
+here. Vegetables of every kind, and melons, cucumbers, &c. thrive
+exceedingly well. The grass grows spontaneously to an amazing height,
+and in consequence of the fine pasturage the animals are very
+prolific, cows and mares producing two at a birth, and the sheep
+frequently four lambs in the year.
+
+Among the botanical herbs, plants, and roots, are the colocynth, palma
+Christi, wild and meadow saffron, the great mountain garlic, mountain
+satyrion, senna, rhubarb, bastard rhubarb, balsam apple, horned poppy,
+wild succory, recabilia peruviana, ipecacuanha, wild turnip, wild
+radish, field mustard, Indian cress, dandelion, black winter cherry,
+wild lily, hyacinth, violet, narcissus, wild rose, camomile, tulips,
+and the _fleur de lis_, equal to that of Florence; with a variety of
+others too numerous to describe.
+
+The domestic animals of these states are, the horse, ass, mule, rumrah
+(a beast of burden in the mountainous parts), camel, dromedary,
+antelope, cow, dog, sheep, and large goat. The beasts of prey are,
+lions, tigers, leopards, hyenas, and wolves. The apes are
+innumerable. Deer, wild boars, hares, rabbits, ferrets, weazels,
+moles, and camelions, are also found in great numbers. Horses and
+cattle of all kinds are sold at very low prices.
+
+Among the feathered tribe most common here, are, very large eagles,
+hawks, partridges, quails, wild pigeons, and wild fowl of every kind,
+turtle-doves, and a variety of small birds; among which the capsa
+sparrow is remarkable for the elegance of its plumage and the
+sweetness of its notes, in which it excels every other bird: this
+beautiful little creature cannot live out of its native country.  I
+had almost forgotten to mention the storks and cranes, which are seen
+here in great numbers, and so extremely tame, from being perfectly
+unmolested, that they build their nests and rear their young in the
+very centre of the towns and villages, and on the tops of the towers
+of their mosques. Of the reptile kind, venomous spiders, scorpions,
+vipers, and enormously large serpents, are common in Barbary.
+
+The greatest natural curiosities of this country are the salt-pits
+(which in some places are immensely large), and several hot springs,
+possessing such a great degree of heat, that an egg being put in for a
+short time will become quite hard. The face of the country itself is a
+natural curiosity; the vallies, which are several leagues in extent,
+and the mountains, which reach as far as the deserts of Suz, Tafilet,
+and Gessula, interspersed with forests or corn-fields, and rich
+meadows, are remarkably curious.
+
+The artificial curiosities are very numerous, and claim the attention
+of all who may visit this country. They ought properly to be divided
+into two classes; in the first of which may be placed the
+subterraneous cavern and passage near Tangiers; the ruins of the
+amphitheatres, triumphal arches, temples, &c.  erected by the
+Carthaginians, Romans, and Arabs, at Fez and the several other towns
+of Barbary. The country is besides all over scattered with the remains
+of ditches and ramparts, evidently designed for the defence of camps,
+forts, and castles, no other vestiges of which, however, can be
+found. Besides these, I have observed a number of round towers, which
+appear to have belonged, some to houses of religion, and others to the
+palaces or residences of former rulers in this country.
+
+In the second class, we may place the efforts of the architectural and
+mechanical genius of the present inhabitants, exemplified in the
+wonderful aqueducts at Morocco, which commence in Mount Atlas (by the
+natives called _Gibbel-el-Hadith_), and convey water in the greatest
+abundance to all the houses of the city and its environs. Nor is the
+wheel at Fez, which I mentioned in a former letter, less worthy of
+remark; and several mausoleums in their burial-places have been
+constructed in a very costly style, the stucco of the walls being
+remarkably smooth and beautiful, and as hard as marble; but these
+tombs are exceptions to the general rule; for, as I have before
+observed, the greater part are but rude buildings. There are many
+other curiosities, which to describe minutely would fill a volume.
+
+LETTER XX.
+
+_Practice of Physic--Astrology--Poetry--Entertainment given by the
+Author to the Moors--Their Astonishment at the Effects of
+Electricity_.
+
+
+Mequinez.
+
+I shall now speak of their principal or rather only studies, which
+are, physic, astrology, and poetry. First then of physic, to give you
+an accurate idea of the extent of their knowledge in which, it will be
+sufficient to describe their practice of it; and I am sure you, my
+dear D----, and every other friend to humanity, will agree with me,
+that it would have been better for their countrymen if they had never
+attempted it at all, as unassisted nature would do more, for those
+afflicted with disease, than such bunglers.
+
+The general practice adopted by the Moorish physicians, or _Tweebs_,
+is, bleeding _ad deliquium_ in all fevers; administering excessive
+doses of drastic medicines, plenty of emulsions, and a watery
+diet. They order vinegar in cases of quinsies and ardent fevers, and
+garlic in those of a putrid, malignant, and pestilential kind. They
+prescribe alum in cases of hemorrhage and dysentery; hot spices and
+long abstinences in chronic diseases; recent ox-gall to kill worms and
+cure dropsies; castor and myrrh in all hysteric affections; asses milk
+in slow fevers and consumptions; oranges, honey, eggs, mint, and
+myrrh, in cases of typhus; poppy-juice in convulsive disorders and
+fluxes of the bowels; pitch or tar water and pennyroyal in common
+fevers; rose-leaves in cases of diabetes; and sulphur in all cutaneous
+disorders. This is the whole of the Moorish _materia medica_.  In
+simple diseases, where little medical ability is necessary, and the
+good habit of body of these people in general contributes to their
+success, they may effect a cure; but in desperate cases, where nothing
+but the skill of the physician can relieve oppressed nature, it is not
+astonishing that they should fail. These men are in some measure
+astrologers: most probably, being gifted with a greater degree of
+cunning than their neighbours, they have discovered the weak side of
+their countrymen, together with their own insufficiency, to cover
+which they pretend to a knowledge of the stars, which has the greatest
+weight with the superstitious Moors; consequently, when a patient,
+either by their improper treatment, or the violence of his disease,
+evinces symptoms of approaching dissolution, the doctor, with infinite
+gravity, points out to the surrounding relations the star which, he
+positively asserts, appears to summon the dying man to the bosom of
+his Prophet. By this means he avoids reproach, since he has made it so
+evident, that the poor man's time was come, and that nothing could
+ward off the shafts of destiny.  This apparently wonderful faculty of
+prognostication, added to their exemplary mode of living, and liberal
+donations to the poor and afflicted, operating upon the minds of the
+blind and fanatic Moors, induces _them_ to consider their physicians
+next to their saints, and to worship _them_ with nearly as much
+reverence.
+
+The Tweebs have each from two to six disciples, whom they instruct and
+initiate in their secrets of the healing art. In their regular visits
+to any town, they parade the streets with great pomp and gravity,
+followed by a train of miserable objects, who pretend to have been
+recently recovered from a long and dangerous illness by the
+extraordinary skill of the doctor; while, in fact, their cadaverous
+countenances and emaciated bodies seem to contradict their assertions,
+and bear ample testimony that they are hurrying fast to that country,
+"from whose bourne no traveller returns."  Under the pretence of
+charity, these poor wretches are supported by this Moorish
+AEsculapius, while his views in so doing are entirely selfish; that
+by their means he may better impose on the credulous, and obtain
+considerable sums of money. When any one of them (by chance) effects
+what he considers a great cure, it is communicated in a circular
+letter to all the doctors in Barbary.
+
+They select one of their elders every year, and appoint him to preside
+over them. His business, for the time being, is to settle all their
+controversies: he is the fountain of all justice among them; for as
+they are looked upon to be petty saints, they are a privileged set of
+men, and not in the least subject to either civil or military
+jurisdiction. They possess the art of taming the monstrous serpents of
+the country, and rendering them perfectly harmless: in short, their
+profession is nothing but a system of the grossest empiricism.
+
+Formerly the country could boast of having scientific astronomers;
+for, like the ancient Egyptians, the inhabitants of Barbary cultivated
+the science of astronomy with great success; but as it was
+communicated from generation to generation by tradition only, it is
+not surprising that the increasing indolence of the Moors should have
+made them relinquish the more abstruse parts, and that now it is
+dwindled into mere astrology. Their habitual mode of living,
+frequently exposed at night, during all weathers, in the open air,
+enables them without difficulty to observe the fixed stars, and their
+influence on the weather, and they have thence ascribed to every one
+some peculiar property, by which the events of human life, good or
+bad, are regulated.
+
+In poetry I am told the Moors are very successful.  The subjects of
+their poems are mostly eulogies of the great men who have belonged to
+the tribe of which the poet is a member: these compositions are all
+extempore, like those of our ancient bards, or those of the Celts,
+spoken of by Julius Cæsar, who wandered about in Gaul and other
+parts of the continent with their harps. The poets of Barbary have no
+settled home, but with an instrument somewhat resembling a mandolin
+they wander from place to place, and house to house, composing and
+singing pieces improviso, on the honour and antiquity of their
+tribe. From persons acquainted with the language, I have heard, that
+they are very happy in this species of poetry, which is far from
+deficient in point of harmony. For myself I can say, that though
+unable to enter into the spirit of it from the circumstance of not
+perfectly understanding the language, yet I was much pleased with the
+effect.
+
+I shall conclude this letter with a short description of an
+entertainment which I gave to several of the inhabitants of this place
+a few days since. Having invited as many as I could conveniently
+accommodate, I regaled them with all the most exquisite things the
+market afforded. I passed the bottle pretty briskly, telling them the
+liquor was a favourite decoction of mine, which they might drink
+without any scruple. They did not seem to wish to doubt this
+assertion; and having raised their spirits to a flow of mirth and
+jollity, I told them, that, as they had done me the honour of coming
+to dine with me, I would endeavour to amuse them with a small specimen
+of what the doctors in England commonly make use of in certain
+chronical complaints. I then placed my electric machine in the centre
+of the court, and having loaded it with a sufficient quantity of
+electric fluid, produced such a powerful shock to about a dozen of the
+stoutest, that, either from surprise or terror, they fell apparently
+senseless on the floor. The consternation and confusion which ensued
+were beyond description; the rest were all retiring precipitately with
+the most dreadful yells and cries imaginable, expecting to share the
+fate of their companions. With much difficulty I prevailed on them to
+remain, and, raising the men from the ground, I convinced them they
+had received no injury; upon which they unanimously attributed it to
+my great skill in magic, and loaded me with a thousand compliments, I
+repeated the experiment three or four times, to their inexpressible
+wonder, and I was at length almost hailed as a supernatural being. The
+report of this extraordinary phenomenon soon spread abroad, and a vast
+concourse of people assembled; but my guard would not allow any one to
+enter without my permission. In the evening I sent for a band of
+music, and my company continued dancing and rioting till morning. They
+brought in several Jewish women, and carried the farce to such a
+length, that I was completely rejoiced to get rid of them,
+determining, in my own mind, never again to venture such another
+entertainment.
+
+LETTER XXI.
+
+_Prevalent Diseases--Abuse of Stimulants--Medicinal
+Well--Sorcery--Hydrophobia._
+
+
+Mequinez.
+
+Although the plague is not so common in these states as in Turkey and
+Egypt, yet it is often brought hither by means of the caravans, and
+several articles of luxury imported annually by the merchants from
+Mecca and Medina; and, for want of proper precaution, it is suffered
+to spread, to desolate, and to stop of its own accord; for the Moors
+continue obstinately blinded by the same superstitious and absurd
+notions that are entertained by the Mahometans of the Turkish empire,
+of its being a punishment occasionally inflicted upon the true
+believers by their angry Prophet, and that it is incurable; and here I
+receive on this subject the same tales and romantic accounts that I
+did during my residence in Egypt in the year 1801.
+
+The most prevailing diseases in this country that have come under my
+observation, are, cutaneous disorders of all kinds, intermittent
+fevers, those of a putrid, malignant, pestilential kind, and the
+puerperal fever, which proceeds from the barbarous treatment of
+lying-in women in this country, as they are kept in small confined
+rooms, deprived of the benefit of pure air.
+
+One day I went to see a very fine young woman, the lady of one of the
+Xeriffes. The heat of the room was intolerable. After much persuasion,
+I succeeded in having her removed to a cooler one, and she recovered,
+contrary to the predictions of the female attendant, who reported the
+daily changes to a celebrated doctor here. It is wonderful what
+numbers of young women fall victims to this fever in the course of a
+year.
+
+Besides the above-mentioned complaints, I have observed insanity,
+epilepsy, spasmodic affections of the face, ruptures of all kinds
+(which last are produced by their loose kind of trowsers); nervous
+consumptions, extreme debility, and dropsy, brought on by their
+indolent manner of living, and the great abuses of violent doses of
+drastic medicines.
+
+The principal and opulent inhabitants of this country, in order to
+excite certain desires, are frequently in the habit of receiving, from
+their own doctors, several strong and powerful stimulants, to the
+infallible detriment and ultimate, destruction of their
+constitutions. I have been at great pains to deter them from these
+abominable habits, by representing to them their ill effects and fatal
+consequences; but as they all appear to have a great propensity for a
+short life and a merry one, I fear my advice has been thrown away, for
+I have daily the most pressing and importunate solicitations from all
+classes of people, both young and old, to give them the medicines I
+have alluded to:--but 1 must here be clearly understood, that
+debauchery which exists in all the principal towns of this country in
+a superlative degree, does not extend to the inland and mountainous
+parts, where the morals are pure, and the people remarkably healthy,
+strong, and robust, living to a very advanced age, and scarcely ever
+afflicted with any disease excepting cutaneous disorders, to which
+they are very subject. The great abuse of blood-letting on all
+trifling occasions, practised by the rich inhabitants, produces very
+bad effects.
+
+There is a well in the neighbourhood of this town, which possesses a
+great many medicinal virtues; and though I have not been able to
+ascertain its mineral qualities, I have found, by using the water,
+that it is extremely friendly to the stomach, that it excites appetite
+and digestion, and lively spirits; that it is efficacious in the cure
+of gravel and nephritic complaints; and in cases of foulness of the
+blood, I have found it superior to any mineral waters I have met with
+in Europe.  It has completely cured my Jew servant of a most
+inveterate scurvy, under which he had laboured for a very considerable
+time.
+
+Notwithstanding the Moors possess this inestimable treasure near one
+of their most opulent and populous cities, yet, owing to fabulous
+tales, handed down by tradition from one generation to another, these
+superstitious people will never drink or disturb the water; to do so
+is reckoned sacrilege, and the offender is severely punished: for they
+positively affirm, that one of their great saints has been transmuted
+into it, and that at some distant period he will resume his natural
+form, to perform a great many miracles, and to render the Moors rich
+and happy, more so indeed than Mahomet has promised them in the other
+world.
+
+While I have been here, I have had daily intercourse with the most
+eminent of their Tweebs. They pay me regular morning visits,
+questioning me on several points. One day I was asked by what means
+health was preserved, and what produced disease in the human body; I
+answered, that, "among several other remote causes, the air, by its
+different constitutions, had a great effect upon the human frame: that
+diseases revolve periodically, and keep time and measure exactly with
+the seasons of the year; and that either health or disease depended in
+some measure on the universal influence of the air, by its gravity,
+heat, cold, moisture, dryness, or exhalations."  They have no idea of
+natural philosophy, nor of the knowledge and physiology of the air, or
+how to change and destroy its bad qualities in close and confined
+places. After much persuasion, I prevailed on some of them to make use
+of the fuming mixture of brimstone and aromatic ingredients, in all
+cases of pestilential fevers.  Though this is not so efficacious as
+the nitrous acid, yet it will considerably abate the progress of
+contagion, and they are acquainted with the materials of the former,
+whereas they have not the smallest idea of the latter.
+
+They are perfectly ignorant of the animal and comparative anatomy, and
+of physiology and pathology. They have no notion either of the nervous
+fluid, or of the solids, their restriction and relaxation. They have
+no other idea of the fluids than the blood, to a superabundance of
+which they attribute all the diseases incident to the human body. In
+the spring they recommend bleeding, to ensure a good state of health
+for the remainder of the year. These Tweebs are wonderfully reserved
+in all their actions.
+
+The Moors have great faith in sorcery and witchcraft. I was called
+upon to visit a young man about eighteen, who was universally believed
+to be possessed by an evil spirit.  His case was a confirmed
+hydrophobia. I informed the people that the disease was occasioned by
+the bite of a mad dog, and that the man would die in the course of the
+ensuing night. I inquired the next morning, when I found that I had
+judged correctly. I have also visited several young women who were
+reported to have been bewitched. Some I found labouring under the last
+stage of a nervous consumption; others under a dangerous and incurable
+lunacy. In short, nothing can exceed the ignorance and superstition of
+these deluded people.
+
+I am afraid, my dear D----, I have trespassed on your patience, both
+in this letter and the last, as nothing but physic and its
+practitioners have been introduced and discussed.  I have certainly
+been too selfish; for, while I have been pursuing a subject the most
+interesting to me from the nature of my profession, a thought never
+once obtruded itself, that my friend perhaps would take no interest in
+the relation. However, by way of compensation, I give you leave to
+wish the Moorish physicians and their physic at the bottom of the Red
+Sea, and me with them, if you choose; but I have now done with them,
+and my next will, most probably, not be from Mequinez, as I think I
+have a good opportunity of returning to Gibraltar.
+
+LETTER XXII.
+
+
+_Depart for Gibraltar--Oppressive Heat--Robbers--Arrive at
+Larache--Affray of some English Sailors--Letter from the Governor to
+Lord Collingwood._
+
+Larache, August I, 1806.
+
+
+
+I was perfectly right in my conjectures, that you would hear no more
+from me at Mequinez.  Having succeeded in curing the patients under my
+care, and no disease of any consequence prevailing in the country, I
+thought it a favourable opportunity to request permission of the
+Emperor to return to Gibraltar; and having obtained it, I set off for
+this place.
+
+On my way hither, I experienced the most dreadful inconvenience from
+the heat of the weather; it was oppressive in the extreme, and I was
+constantly annoyed with the sight of dead horses, mules, asses, cows,
+&c. that had perished on the road, from excessive heat and want of
+water. The rivers which I had observed on my way to Mequinez, and the
+waters of which I had so much relished, I now found completely dried
+up. We also suffered considerably from the want of fresh water, for
+that we had brought with us in bags became so hot, that nothing but
+the most dire necessity could have compelled us to make use of it;
+fortunately we now and then met with fields full of fine water-melons,
+of a most exquisite flavour: we sought them with the greatest avidity,
+and obtained relief from the excessive thirst with which we were
+oppressed. We were obliged to make very short stages, and to halt
+every hour under the shade of some tall trees, to recover ourselves.
+
+I have had two or three most unpleasant encounters (on my way from
+Mequinez) with robbers. In the first I ran the risk of my life. It was
+the sixth day after we left Mequinez, as I was loitering considerably
+in the rear of my party, I was accosted by a common Moor on horseback,
+who, after surveying me from head to foot, asked for a pinch of snuff,
+which I gave him; then spying the gold chain of my watch, he attempted
+to seize it; but I prevented him by spurring my horse and galloping
+off to join my guard: the fellow fired his piece, which fortunately
+missed, and gave me an opportunity of returning the compliment, and of
+wounding him; when perceiving my guard coming at full speed to my
+assistance, wounded as he was, he made off across the fields, and was
+soon out of sight. This event (which, had I been in other
+circumstances, would have had no weight with me) I frankly confess so
+much agitated my spirits, already exhausted by the intense heat and
+intolerable thirst under which I suffered, that I found myself unable
+to proceed much further. At a little distance was a forest, and to the
+shade of that we determined to repair for the rest of the day,
+provided we could find a convenient spot to pitch our tents upon. We
+reached it about nine o'clock in the morning: I was assisted to
+dismount, and stretching myself on the burnt grass, under a clump of
+olive-trees, I desired my men to look about for a place to erect our
+tents. After a few minutes absence, they returned with the joyful
+intelligence, that they had met with a fine spring of water, and near
+it a sufficient space for our tents. This might indeed be called
+resuscitation to our drooping spirits. I arose with more alertness
+than I thought possible, and followed my men to this delightful
+spot. My wine was expended, and we were therefore glad of a glass of
+spirits and water, which completely recovered us; and we were enabled
+to enjoy a good dinner, which my Jew servant prepared.
+
+We encamped, on this spot, for the night also; and from the occurrence
+of the morning, I thought it highly expedient to take every measure to
+prevent a repetition. I therefore ordered two or three fires to be
+kindled round our tents, and placed several sentinels about, to watch
+if any one approached. Having made these arrangements, and given
+strict orders to the serjeant to be on the alert, I repaired to rest;
+but there certainly was some spell, to prevent my enjoying what I
+stood so much in need of, a _sound_ sleep. I had retired, but a very
+short time, to my tent, when I was suddenly roused by an alarm of The
+robbers!  the robbers! The ruffians had contrived to slip in so
+privately, that, unperceived, they carried off one of my trunks, and
+were in the act of mounting two of my mules, when they were
+detected. They instantly made off with the trunk and mules. The
+confusion among my people was much greater than was necessary, and
+some time was lost in useless upbraidings.
+
+I went out with the intention of calling the serjeant to a severe
+account, when I was informed that he had just gone in pursuit with six
+others. Those that remained kept vigilant watch with me the rest of
+the night. At break of day our party returned. They soon came up with
+the robbers, who, finding themselves so closely pursued, and likely to
+be overtaken, relinquished their booty to facilitate their escape. I
+had the satisfaction therefore to recover my trunk and mules. The
+serjeant employed the whole of his rhetorical abilities to give weight
+to the affair. I soon perceived that his account was much exaggerated,
+and immediately comprehended that his drift was to obtain a reward
+from me. I did not disappoint him, but ordered an extra allowance of
+rum to him and the rest of the party. As you may suppose, I was very
+anxious to quit a place where I had been made so uneasy, I ordered the
+tents to be struck; and, after riding five hours, we halted near a
+village, upon a pleasant hill about thirty miles from Larache, where
+we were abundantly supplied with provisions by the Cadi. From this
+place we had a most delightful prospect of the Atlantic Ocean to our
+left, and, to the right and front, an extensive forest and an immense
+plain of corn-fields and meadows. We set forward again at daybreak;
+and by pursuing our journey in the afternoon, for it was utterly
+impossible to travel in the middle of the day, we reached this city
+(Larache) late in the evening.
+
+After breakfast next morning, as I was going up to the Castle to pay
+my devoirs to the worthy Governor, my attention was arrested by a
+great riot in the street. Perceiving four of our sailors likely to
+become the victims of an enraged multitude, I hastened to their
+relief.  I found that the disturbance was occasioned by their
+imprudence in attempting to inspect the face of a Moorish woman. They
+belonged to a Gibraltar privateer, which had just arrived at this port
+to take in refreshment.  Having drank too much _aguardiente_ they
+imagined themselves in the streets of Gibraltar. I found no great
+difficulty in prevailing on the mob not to injure them, and in
+ensuring them a safe conduct back to their vessel. I recommended the
+commander of the privateer to put to sea without loss of time. The
+Governor not only forgave the offence, but sent plenty of fresh
+provisions on board for the ship's company just as the vessel was
+getting under way.
+
+Commanders of armed vessels putting into a port of these states should
+not, on any account, suffer their men to go on shore, as they are very
+apt to ridicule the Moors, who are a set of people not to be trifled
+with. To prevent, therefore, any unpleasant occurrences, that may tend
+to lessen the high opinion which the Moors in general entertain of the
+English, and in order to defeat the views of the French party, which
+are incessantly directed towards forming dangerous cabals against the
+interest of the British nation, some effectual means ought to be
+applied. The Moors are very fickle, and their predilection may be
+converted into hatred, which is exactly the point the French aim at,
+to the great detriment of our fleet stationed in those seas, but
+particularly to the garrison of Gibraltar, and would ultimately
+involve us in an unprofitable war.
+
+His Excellency has written to Lord Collingwood, to request a vessel to
+convey me to Gibraltar; he has very handsomely given me a copy of the
+letter he sent, which I inclose for your perusal.
+
+
+"Larache, July 27th, 1806.
+
+"MY LORD,
+
+"His Imperial Majesty has been pleased to bestow on Dr. Buffa many
+presents, consisting of horses, mules, &c. &c.  and entertains a great
+regard for him on account of the good he has done in Barbary; my Royal
+Master has also been graciously pleased to give him a letter to the
+King of England, intreating that the Doctor be permitted to attend the
+Emperor occasionally, and to reside for the future, for that service,
+at Tangiers or Gibraltar.
+
+"In compliance with His Imperial Majesty's wishes, I have now most
+earnestly to request that your Lordship will be pleased to order
+Dr. Buffa a sure conveyance to the garrison of Gibraltar, and one of
+His Majesty's transports to receive the presents given to him, as a
+reward for his merit, and for his good and steady conduct during his
+stay with us. The Doctor carries with him the good wishes of all the
+Moors attached to my Royal Master; and I have the honour to assure
+your Lordship, that he has daily exerted himself with me, and lately
+with His Imperial Majesty, for the service of his King, and for that
+of his fellow-subjects at Gibraltar. On this account alone I hope your
+Lordship will, as soon as possible, afford him an opportunity to join
+his family, at Gibraltar, in safety.
+
+"I have the honour to be,
+
+"My Lord,
+
+"Your Lordship's
+
+"Friend and servant,
+
+(Signed)
+
+"MOHAMMED ABDALLAH ESLAWEE,
+
+Governor of Larache, &c. &c. &c.
+
+_To the Right Hon. Lord Collingwood,
+Admiral and Commander in Chief, &c. &c. &c._
+
+
+
+
+LETTER XXIII.
+
+Embark for Gibraltar--Precautionary Hints.
+
+
+                            Gibraltar.
+
+In compliance with the request of the Governor of Larache, His
+Majesty's hired armed ship the Lord Eldon was ordered by Lord
+Collingwood to convey me to this place. She arrived at Larache about a
+week after I wrote last. The bar unfortunately proved so bad, that she
+was obliged to drop her anchor on the outside; and the Captain,
+conceiving it an unsafe anchorage, pressed me to repair on board
+without delay, which I did, after taking a long farewell of my noble
+friend the Governor, who, with tears in his eyes, embraced me, and
+otherwise evinced his infinite regret and true friendship.
+
+We embarked all my horses, mules, &c.  &c. without any accident, and
+immediately after set sail for Tangiers. I cannot find words to
+describe the interesting, curious, and romantic appearance of the
+Barbary coast, from Larache to Tangiers, when viewed from the sea. I
+took my station on the quarter-deck, and, as we sailed close in shore,
+my curiosity was fully gratified. There are several small bays and
+creeks along this coast, which unfortunately afford shelter to the
+enemy's privateers, where, in perfect security, they remain concealed,
+watching an opportunity to come out and seize any of our straggling
+vessels that have either separated from, or are waiting for convoy to
+enter the Straits.
+
+It is a great pity that the number of our gun-boats at this port
+(Gibraltar) is so limited, as a larger number of them, and a few other
+small vessels kept in readiness here, and well appointed, would
+protect our commerce, and prevent our suffering so much from the
+Spanish boats, and several small French cruizers, which infest this
+part of the world, and almost daily capture some of our merchantmen,
+which they carry into Algesiras in sight of this garrison.
+
+
+
+
+
+APPENDIX.
+
+
+
+No. I.
+
+Copy of a Letter from JOHN TURNBULL, Esquire, Chairman to the Board of
+Trade, to E. COOKE, Esquire, Under Secretary of State, &c. &c. &c.
+
+
+SIR,
+
+In my capacity of General Chairman of the Merchants trading to the
+Mediterranean, and in consequence of the commercial relations which I
+have long maintained with Gibraltar, I think it my duty to submit,
+with great deference, to the consideration of Lord Castlereagh certain
+observations respecting the late dreadful calamity, which afflicted
+that garrison. The great mortality which then prevailed, and which
+carried off almost the whole of the civil inhabitants, was in a great
+degree to be imputed to the want of medical assistance for the poorer
+classes of the people, who are chiefly foreigners. The physicians and
+surgeons attached to the army, had every moment of their time fully
+occupied by the care of the troops immediately under their charge. If
+even they could have spared a little attention to the miserable
+objects just mentioned, it could probably have produced but a very
+inadequate effect. As the medical gentlemen could not be supposed to
+be acquainted with the various foreign dialects that these people
+could only make use of, they were therefore obliged to be abandoned to
+their fate; and by their numerous deaths, and the intercourse they had
+with one another, necessarily occasioned a deplorable increase of
+contagion. It is therefore respectfully suggested, that, as the return
+of such a disorder ought at any rate to be guarded against, it would
+be highly desirable, that a medical gentleman, conversant with the
+languages of the southern parts of Europe, should be appointed as
+physician to the civil inhabitants of Gibraltar, and for their express
+and immediate care. There is now in London, a gentleman (Doctor
+Buffa), Physician to His Majesty's Forces, who appears to be
+peculiarly well qualified for such an appointment. He is possessed of
+superior medical abilities, and particularly in the disorders of the
+plague and yellow-fever, in the treatment of which he has had much
+experience and success; and having been born in Piedmont, he is well
+acquainted with the southern languages of Europe. If Lord Castlereagh
+should be pleased to approve of Doctor Buffa being placed at
+Gibraltar, in the situation which I have taken the liberty to suggest,
+it would occasion no extraordinary expense to Government, Doctor Buffa
+being now one of the Physicians to the Army, and might eventually be
+productive of the most beneficial effects.
+
+
+  I have the honour to be, most respectfully,
+        SIR,
+   Your most obedient and
+   Most humble servant,
+   (Signed)          JOHN TURNBULL.
+
+Guilford Street, 5th August 1805.
+
+E. Cooke, Esq.
+&c. &c. &c.
+
+
+
+No. II.
+
+Letter from the Secretary of the Transport Board to Dr. BUFFA.
+
+
+Transport Office, 16th October 1805.
+
+SIR,
+
+I am directed by the Board to acquaint you, that a passage to
+Gibraltar has been provided for yourself, Mrs. Buffa, your family and
+brother-in-law, on board the Active transport; and that you may embark
+on board that ship at Deptford immediately.
+
+I am further directed to add, that it will be necessary for you to
+find your own provisions.
+
+
+    I am, Sir,
+    Your most obedient servant,
+    A. WHITEHEAD, Secretary.
+
+    _To Dr. Buffa,
+    &c. &c. &c._
+
+
+No. III.
+
+Extract of a Letter from JOHN TURNBULL, Esq. Chairman of the
+Committee of Merchants trading to the Levant, &c. to Dr. BUFFA.
+
+MY DEAR SIR,
+
+On your arrival at Gibraltar, I was favoured with two letters from
+you; but have not since had the pleasure of hearing from you. Nor have
+I written to you, as, notwithstanding the unremitting endeavours, and
+the constant attention, on every occasion, of His Royal Highness and
+myself, it has not been in our power to do any thing effectual to
+serve you. The Medical Board _continue to give all the opposition that
+they possibly can_, and made a very unfavourable report, in
+consequence of a strong representation that I made in your favour to
+Mr. Windham.
+
+London, 7th July 1806.
+
+
+
+No. IV.
+
+Extract of a Letter from JOHN ROSS, Esq. Acting
+Consul General at Tangiers, to Dr. BUFFA.
+
+Friday, 7th May 1806.
+
+DEAR SIR,
+
+I heard only to-day of your arrival at
+Tetuan on your way to Larache, and this evening
+received an express from Indy Mahamed Slawey,
+Governor of that place, to request that, if I knew
+you had been in this country, you would use
+every possible endeavour to come to him at
+Larache; and to accompany him to the Emperor
+who wished to see you.
+
+Let me therefore request your moving as quick
+as possible to Larache direct from Tetuan, and
+join him before he departs. Should you miss
+him, he has left orders to his Lieutenant-governor
+there, to forward you to Sidy immediately.
+
+
+
+
+No. V.
+
+Letter written to JOHN ROSS, Esq. Acting Consul General at Tangiers.
+
+
+Larache, May 17th, 1806.
+
+SIR,
+
+His Excellency the Governor of this place having last evening received
+a letter from the Emperor, inclosing a communication transmitted by
+the French Consul, together with a note from Paris, His Excellency has
+honoured me with both to peruse. Their contents were the most severe
+philippics against England; our blessed government was represented the
+most perfidious and treacherous in the world, and great art used to
+excite distrust, and to produce a rupture with England. M. Talleyrand
+informs His Imperial Majesty, by command, of the taking of Naples, and
+the republic of Ragusa; that Bonaparte, for certain political reasons,
+has thought it expedient to appoint Louis Bonaparte King of Holland;
+and Joseph, his other brother, King of the Two Sicilies: that it was
+Bonaparte's determination to exclude the English from every port in
+Europe: that Ceuta should, as soon as an opportunity offers, be
+occupied entirely by French troops; that Spain and Portugal would soon
+become provinces of France, and that His Imperial Majesty could do no
+better thing than to abandon the English, and make common cause with
+France: that the French Consul was charged to demand five thousand
+bullocks, as many horses and mules; wheat and barley for the French
+forces: that an equivalent in territory should be given to the
+Emperor, and a certain scheme submitted to the Court of Morocco highly
+honourable and advantageous to Barbary.
+
+I told His Excellency to be on his guard; for that, by art, Bonaparte
+has enslaved, plundered, and overturned the continent of Europe: that
+I could not help ridiculing the idea of exporting provisions and
+cattle from Barbary: that Bonaparte might cause them to be exported by
+air-balloons, but by no other means or conveyance, while England rules
+the seas. I availed myself of this opportunity of delineating the
+features of the Great Nation, and relating the acts and deeds of
+Bonaparte at Alexandria, Acre, and Jaffa; which had the desired
+effect. He then confidentially informed me, that the Emperor had
+commanded him to reply to the French government as he deemed most
+conducive to the interest and good of Barbary: that he should cut
+matters short: that proper steps should be taken to defeat their
+cabals and intrigues, and a watchful eye kept for the future on the
+motions of the French Consul, and all his agents; and that I might
+assure the British government, that his influence shall always be used
+for the interests of the English. Upon which I thanked him, and told
+him that the Emperor might always command my services, whenever he
+deemed them necessary.
+
+You will no longer apprehend the ascendancy of the French in this part
+of the world, as it is all over with them; nor will they ever succeed
+as long as this excellent Moorish Chief guides the councils of thee
+Emperor.
+
+I remain, with due respect,
+
+SIR,
+
+Your Most obedient servant,
+
+JOHN BUFFA.
+
+To John Ross, Esq.
+Acting Consul General,                                '
+Tangiers.
+
+No. VI.
+
+Letter from Captain STEWART, of His Majesty's
+Ship Seahorse, to ----.
+
+
+His Britannic Majesty's Frigate Seahorse, June 1806.
+
+MOST  NOBLE AND EXCELLENT SIR,
+
+Presuming on the great friendship between our royal masters, I have
+sent an officer on shore to request of you, leave to purchase some
+cattle, sheep, and fowls, for myself, my officers and crew, who have
+been long cruizing without fresh provisions. He is authorized to draw
+bills on the British government for the amount of the purchase, which
+I will approve and sign.
+
+The quantity of cattle we want, will be about twenty-five, of sheep
+about eighteen, and of fowls about twelve dozen (besides some eggs and
+vegetables), more or less, according to the price.
+
+May the light of Heaven be shed upon you many years!
+
+
+           I have the honour to be, with great respect,
+                      Your most obedient humble servant,
+                             JOHN STEWART, Captain.
+
+
+
+No. VII.
+
+    Letter from Lord COLLINGWOOD to His Excellency
+               the Governor of Larache.
+
+                           Ocean, off Cadiz, 8th July 1806.
+
+MOST EXCELLENT GOVERNOR,
+
+I have received the letter which Your Excellency directed to be wrote
+by Dr. Buffa to one of my officers who sent to Larache for stock; and
+I beg to express to you the great satisfaction I have in every
+instance which demonstrates the friendship which is entertained, by
+His Imperial Majesty, for the King of Great Britain, and his subjects;
+and to assure Your Excellency, that, on my part, I shall always be
+happy in every opportunity of shewing you, that the same sentiment of
+friendship and kindness is felt by us towards the Moors.
+
+I am much obliged to Your Excellency for the supplies of refreshment,
+which you are pleased to offer to my ships, which may call at Larache.
+And wishing you health,
+
+I am,
+
+Most excellent Governor,
+
+Your friend and servant.
+
+COLLINGWOOD.
+
+To His Excellency
+
+the Governor of Larache.
+
+
+
+No. VIII.
+
+Letter to the Right Honourable Lord COLLINGWOOD, &c. &c. &c.
+
+Michanez, July 16th, 1808.
+
+MY LORD,
+
+I am instructed by His Excellency the Governor of Larache, and
+principal minister of the Emperor of Morocco, to acknowledge the
+receipt of your Lordship's letter, directed to him at Larache, of the
+8th instant, and feel great satisfaction in being able thus to convey
+His Excellency's assurance to your Lordship, that nothing shall be
+wanting on his part to forward (which is verbatim what he directed me
+to write) the interest of the English, as long as he shall retain any
+influence with his royal master; that he has always felt great
+pleasure in promoting the views and wishes of the late English Consul,
+and shall ever continue the same.
+
+He has represented to His Imperial Majesty the affair of the French
+privateer, which was driven on shore near Tangiers, by one of your
+Lordship's small vessels. His Excellency commands me to inform your
+Lordship, that His Imperial Majesty highly approves of the noble and
+generous conduct of the English on that occasion, and deprecates that
+of the French, lamenting, that when the marauders landed on the
+Moorish shore, his subjects did not put every Frenchman to death.
+
+His Imperial Majesty greatly laments the undeserved treatment which
+was offered near Tetuan to one of your Lordship's officers, by an
+unworthy officer under the command of Governor Ash-Ash. His Imperial
+Majesty, at His Excellency's representation, solicited by me, has
+written, some time since, a letter to Ash-Ash, strictly enjoining and
+commanding him to favour the interest of the English only, and not to
+take any French part directly or indirectly, on pain of His Majesty's
+eternal displeasure; the more so, as His Imperial Majesty's solicitude
+and resolve is now to keep up that friendship and good understanding
+which has hitherto been evinced on all occasions on the part of the
+King of Britain, and His Imperial Majesty, who desires to be made
+known to your Lordship his decided partiality to the English. His
+Excellency wishes your Lordship health and prosperity.
+
+I have the honour to be, my Lord,
+
+Your Lordship's
+
+Most obedient humble servant,
+
+J. BUFFA.
+
+    To His Excellency
+    Lord Collingwood,
+    &c. &c. &c.
+
+    By order of Mahomed Abdalah Eslawee,
+    Governor of Larache, and first Minister
+    to the Emperor.
+
+
+
+No. IX.
+
+Translation of a Letter written by His Excellency the Governor of
+Larache, And first Minister to the Emperor of Morocco, to the Right
+Honourable Lord COLLINGWOOD.
+
+Larache, July 27th, 1806.
+
+His Imperial Majesty having been pleased to permit Doctor Buffa to
+return to Gibraltar, and entertaining a great regard for him, on
+account of the good he has done in Barbary, the Emperor has also been
+pleased to testify the same in a letter written with his own hand, to
+the King of Great Britain, strongly pressing His Majesty that the
+Doctor may be permitted to attend him occasionally, and to reside upon
+a fixed appointment at Gibraltar. In compliance with His Imperial
+Majesty's wishes, I have now most earnestly to request that your
+Lordship will be pleased to order him a sure and commodious conveyance
+for Gibraltar, and to take in the presents he has received as a reward
+for his merit, and for his good and steady conduct during his stay
+with us. The Doctor carries with him the good wishes of all the Moors
+attached to my Royal and Imperial Master; and I have the honour to
+assure your Lordship, that he has daily exerted himself with me, and
+lately with the Emperor, for the service of His Majesty's navy, and
+for the garrison of Gibraltar.
+
+On this account alone, I hope your Lordship will, as soon as possible,
+afford him an opportunity of joining his family in safety.
+
+
+             Health and prosperity.
+
+                 (Signed)
+         MAHOMED BEN ABDALAH ESLAWEE.
+
+
+
+No. X.
+
+Translation of a Letter, in the Arabic Language, from Sultan SOLYMAN
+BEN MAHOMED, Emperor of Morocco, to His Majesty GEORGE the Third, King
+of Great Britain, &c, &c, &c. &c.
+
+In the name of God, the all-merciful and commiserating God; on whom is
+our account, and whose support we acknowledge; for there is neither
+creation, nor power, but that which proceeds from God, the high and
+eternal God.
+
+From the servant of God, the commander of the faithful in Mahomed,
+upheld and supported by the grace of God, Solyman the son of Mahomed,
+the son of Abd' Allah, the son of Ismael, Prince of Hassenie, ever
+upheld by the power of God, Sultan of Fez, of Morocco, of Suze, of
+Dea'ha, of Tafilet, and of Tuat, together with all the territories of
+the Garban West.
+
+                     /--------------\
+                    /      L .S.     \
+                   /   Solyman the    \
+                  | Son  of  Mahommed, |
+                  |      &c.  &c.      |
+                  |    God illumine    |
+                  |     and support    |
+                   \       him,       /
+                    \    &c. &c.     /
+                     \--------------/
+
+To our cherished, our dearly beloved brother (who is exalted by the
+power of God), Sultan George the Third, Sultan of the territories of
+the United Kingdom of Great Britain and Ireland, Duke of Mecklenberg,
+Prince descended from the line or dynasty of the Emperors of Rome and
+Palestine.
+
+This premised, we inform you, that we continually make diligent and
+friendly inquiry concerning you, desiring from our heart, that you may
+be at all times surrounded by wealth and prosperity. We wish you to
+increase in friendship with us, that our alliance may be stronger than
+heretofore, even stronger than it was in the days of our ancestors,
+whom God guard and protect. Now therefore we make known to you, that
+your physician and servant Dr. Buffa has been in our royal presence,
+which is exalted by the bounty of God; and we have been pleased with
+his medical knowledge and diligent attention; and moreover with the
+relief he hath given to us. We have therefore to entreat or to ask of
+you, to give him your royal order to return to our neighbourhood, to
+Gibraltar, well provided with all good and necessary medicines; that
+he, residing at Gibraltar, may be ready to attend quickly on our royal
+person, whenever we may stand in need of his medical assistance: we
+trust you will therefore return him immediately without delay or
+procrastination; seeing that he has been of essential service to us.
+And we recommend you to exalt Dr. Buffa in your favour, and we will
+always be your allies and friends. May you be ever surrounded by
+wealth and prosperity! Peace be with you! The fourth day of the month
+of Jumad Elute, in the year of the Hágira 1222, answering to
+the fifth or sixth of July 1807.
+
+Done into the English as literally as the incompatibility of the
+idioms of the two languages would admit of, by JAMES GRAY JACKSON,
+professor of African and Arabic languages.
+
+Fenchurch Buildings, July 1807.
+
+
+
+No. XI.
+
+
+Translations from the Arabic. The first received the 18th January; the
+latter, 6th July, 1808.
+
+
+    In the name of God, from Mahomed Ben
+    Abdalah Eslawee, Governor of Tetuan, Tangiers,
+    and its dependencies, &c. &c. &c.
+
+
+                To Doctor BUFFA.
+
+
+Since your departure from us, we have not received any letter, nor
+heard from you; so not having heard any thing of you, we are much
+uneasy and concerned about you: for we love you. We are ordered by the
+sacred commands of our Sultan, to require you will acquaint us how you
+are, if any thing has happened you; and that you will return to us
+with an answer to the sacred letter entrusted to you, with a fresh
+supply of medicines, according to your promise.
+
+We also request you will endeavour to obtain from the English
+Government, two masts for a frigate, of forty-five feet each, which
+you will cause to be sent by a frigate to Larache; and all the
+expense which may occur, will be paid without fail. We hope you will
+assist as much as possible in this business; and we wish you health,
+prosperity, and a speedy return among us.
+
+(Signed)
+
+MAHOMED BEN ABDALAH ESLAWEE.
+
+In the Year of the Hágira 1223.
+
+
+
+No. XII.
+
+The second Letter, prefaced as the former, to Doctor BUFFA.
+
+We have continued to make incessant inquiries after you, but all to no
+purpose. What has become, or befallen you, we know not; nothing, we
+hope, very bad. We consider you a very good man, honest and
+honourable; you cannot wilfully forfeit your sacred pledge, your
+promise, your honour to return to us. We were afraid you were dead,
+but we heard lately you are alive, and resident in London. Return then
+to the presence of our great Sultan, and every thing you will
+reasonably ask for your nation shall be granted to your nation, shall
+be granted to you. The supplies shall be increased to Gibraltar, and
+you will be treated as before, and, if possible, better still; for we
+love you. Return then without fear to the presence of our great
+Sultan, and prove yourself a true Englishman, by keeping your
+promise. We wish you good health and prosperity.
+
+(Signed)
+
+MAHOMED BEN ABDALAH ESLAWEE.
+
+Tetuan.
+
+In the Year of the Hágira 1223.
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
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+The Project Gutenberg eBook, Travels through the Empire of Morocco, by
+John Buffa
+
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+
+
+
+Title: Travels through the Empire of Morocco
+
+Author: John Buffa
+
+Release Date: February 26, 2004  [eBook #11297]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: US-ASCII
+
+
+***START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK TRAVELS THROUGH THE EMPIRE OF
+MOROCCO***
+
+
+Produced by Distributed Proofreaders Europe, http://dp.rastko.net
+Project by Carlo Traverso.
+This file was produced from images generously made available by the
+Bibliotheque nationale de France (BnF/Gallica) at http://gallica.bnf.fr.
+
+
+
+
+
+
+[Illustration: Map of the Empire of MOROCCO for Dr. BUFFA'S TRAVELS]
+
+
+TRAVELS
+
+THROUGH THE
+
+EMPIRE OF MOROCCO.
+
+BY
+
+JOHN BUFFA, M.D.
+
+PHYSICIAN TO THE FORCES.
+
+
+ILLUSTRATED WITH A MAP.
+
+LONDON:
+
+
+1810.
+
+
+
+
+PREFACE.
+
+My motives for publishing this volume of Travels, will be best
+explained by a detail of the circumstances which gave rise to my
+journey to Morocco. In 1805, I was serving in the capacity of
+Physician to His Majesty's Forces, at the Depot Hospital in the Isle
+of Wight; whence, by dexterous management of the Army Medical
+Board[*], I was removed, and placed upon half-pay, in June of that
+year. At this period, it occurred to Mr.  Turnbull, Chairman of the
+Committee of Merchants trading to the Levant, that it would be of
+advantage to the public, were the offices of Garrison Surgeon of
+Gibraltar, and Inspecting Medical Officer of the ships doing
+quarantine, which were then united in the person of Mr. Pym, separated
+and made distinct appointments; and he was pleased to think that, from
+my local knowledge, and other circumstances, I should be a proper
+person to fill the latter of these offices. This was also the opinion
+of His Royal Highness the Duke of Kent, Governor of the garrison.
+Representations were accordingly made on the subject, to the then
+Secretary of State for the War and Colonial Department, Lord
+Castlereagh; and it was so fully understood that the proposition had
+been assented to on his part, that an order was issued from the
+Transport Board, to provide a passage for myself and family to
+Gibraltar. There I waited some months, in the expectation that the
+commission would be sent after me, but in vain. In the mean time, I
+received a communication from Mr. Mattra, British Consul General at
+Tangiers, requesting that I would cross over to Barbary, and attend
+His Excellency the Governor of Larache, First Minister of the Emperor
+of Morocco, then labouring under a dangerous illness. It was on my
+return from this journey, that I found a letter from Mr. Turnbull (See
+Appendix, No. III. p. 227), stating that my old friends of the Medical
+Board had been at their usual work of persecution, and by their
+scandalous misrepresentations to the new Secretary of State for War
+and the Colonies, Mr. Windham, had succeeded in preventing the
+appointment which His Royal Highness the Governor of Gibraltar had
+been graciously pleased to design for me.
+
+During my residence in Barbary it was my good fortune to gain the
+approbation and friendship of the Emperor of Morocco, and of the
+principal Officers of his Court, by which I was enabled to give
+facilities to the procuring of fresh provisions for our Navy, and
+render to my country other services, not strictly in the line of my
+profession.  (See the various documents at the end of Appendix.)
+Having succeeded in restoring the Governor of Larache to health, and
+performed some other cures, acceptable to the Emperor of Morocco, I
+considered the objects for which I had crossed over to Barbary
+accomplished, and returned to Gibraltar, after having received the
+most flattering marks of distinction, both from the Imperial Court,
+and from Lord Collingwood, Commander of the British fleet in the
+Mediterranean.  The letter of the Emperor of Morocco to His Majesty
+(Appendix, No. X. p.  239) is an ample proof of the disposition of
+that prince in my favour.
+
+Finding the principal aim of my voyage to Gibraltar frustrated by the
+machinations of the Medical Junta, whom I have already stated as ever
+active in mischief, I determined to return to England. The letter of
+the Emperor of Morocco to His Majesty, and a general certificate,
+couched in the strongest terms of approbation, and signed by all the
+principal merchants of Gibraltar, I thought were documents, which,
+added to my correspondence with Lord Collingwood, and the officers of
+his fleet, would not fail to have procured me a favourable reception,
+and some attention to my claims.
+
+But the letter of the Emperor of Morocco, as it still remains
+unanswered, I cannot but believe has never been presented to His
+Majesty.  Nay, the pressing solicitations, with which I have since
+been honoured on the part of the Emperor of Morocco, through his
+principal Minister, to return to that country, I have hitherto been
+obliged to delay answering, that I might not, on the one hand, insult,
+by evasive or false replies, a government from which I had experienced
+such friendship and respect; or, on the other hand, be compelled, by a
+true statement, to compromise my own.
+
+The principal design of publishing this account of my journey to the
+Barbary States, is to shew the good policy, on the part of this
+country, of keeping upon terms of strict amity with the government of
+Morocco. The neglect, which, on this occasion, has been evinced of the
+Emperor's letter, I cannot but consider, in a public point of view, as
+extremely reprehensible, independently of the private injury it has
+occasioned to myself.  Whether this neglect arose from the
+misrepresentations of the Army Medical Board, or from those of any
+other persons, I will not pretend to determine; but in any case, a
+most censurable disregard, even of the forms of civility, towards a
+Prince, who, however we may affect to despise his influence in the
+great political scale, has it always in his power materially to
+promote or to impede the interests of this country in the Levant, must
+attach to some quarter or other.
+
+  [*] As the members of that body are expected shortly to be dismissed
+  from their situations, I think it right, lest at any future period
+  injustice should be done to innocent individuals, by confounding
+  them with the guilty, here to state that Sir Lucas Pepys,
+  Bart. Mr. Thomas Keate, and Mr. Francis Knight, Apothecaries, at
+  present compose the body illegally calling themselves the Army
+  Medical Board, whose conduct for a great many years has brought
+  disgrace and disaster on that important department.  For a detail of
+  their conduct, see "An Analytical View of the Medical Department of
+  the British Army, by Charles Maclean, M.D." 8vo. published by
+  Stockdale, Pall Mall.
+
+
+
+CONTENTS.
+
+
+LETTER I.
+
+Inducement for the Journey--Arrive at Tangiers--Its History--
+Situation--Inhabitants--Military--Governor--Fortifications--
+Subterraneous Passage--Socco, or Market--Adjacent Villas--Invited to
+Larache.
+
+LETTER II.
+
+Sketch of the History of Morocco--Road from Tangiers--Simplicity of
+the Peasants--Moors hospitable--Arrive at a Village--The ancient
+Zelis--Public Accommodations--Much infested with Vermin--Arzilla, a
+ruinous walled Town--Arrive at Larache.
+
+LETTER III.
+
+Conducted to the Governor--Medical Hint from his Secretary--Governor
+recovers--Larache--Its Harbour, Shipping, and Inhabitants.
+
+LETTER IV.
+
+Excursion to Mamora, and thence lo Salee--Friendly Reception by the
+Governor of the latter--Rabat--Tower of Hassen--Shella--Mansooria--
+Alcasser--Quiber--Its Socco, or Market-place.
+
+LETTER V.
+
+Leave Larache with an Escort--Curious Custom on returning from
+Mecca--Arrive at Tetuan.
+
+LETTER VI.
+
+Ill Usage of a Lieutenant of the Swiftsure--Disaffection of the
+Moorish Governor towards Great Britain.
+
+LETTER VII.
+
+Sail for Tetuan--Appearance of the Coast--Enter the Boosega
+River--Curious Towers of Defence--Custom-house--Female Dress--Enter
+Tetuan over a Road of unlevelled Rock--Disagreeable Streets--Well
+received by the Governor--Public Markets--Socco--An Auction Market.
+
+LETTER VIII.
+
+Tetuan--The Jews much oppressed there--particularly the
+Females--Costume--Singularity of the Streets in the Jewish
+Town--Ceuta--Would be invaluable to England--Melilla--Summoned to
+visit the Emperor.
+
+LETTER IX.
+
+Journey to Larache--Annual Socco of St. Martin--No Christian permitted
+to witness it--Express Order for that Purpose in the Author's
+Favour--Specimen of native medical Skill--Reception at
+Larache--Complain of the Impositions of Governor Ash-Ash--Comparative
+Tariff--Effect the Renewal of the old Tariff with increasing
+Advantages.
+
+LETTER X.
+
+Depart from Larache with a little Army--Moorish military
+Salute--Numerous Villages--Customary Procession of the
+Inhabitants--Judicial Arrangements--River Beth resembles the Po--Herds
+of Camels--Arrive at Mequinez--French Falsehood again put
+down--Excellent Road from Mequinez--Fertility and Luxuriance of the
+adjacent Country--Procession to the Sanctuary of Sidy
+Edris--Multiplicity of Saints--Ceremony demonstrative of the Emperor's
+Favour--Take possession of my new Residence.
+
+LETTER XI.
+
+Imperial Review of eighty thousand Cavalry--The Palace--Introduction
+to the Emperor--Visit the Seraglio--Beauty of the Sultana--Her
+Indisposition--Her Influence over the Emperor--His Person described.
+
+LETTER XII.
+
+Succession of the Sovereigns from their Founder to the present
+Emperor.
+
+LETTER XIII.
+
+Responsibility of the Governors--Empire beautiful and
+productive--Humane Efforts of the Emperor--Blind Submission to his
+Will--Great Number of Negroes naturalized--The Moors might be truly
+formidable--Emperor's Brother--Fez divided into two
+Parts--Magnificent Mosques--Commercial Privileges--Indignities which
+Christians undergo--Singular Supply of Water--The Imperial
+Gardens--Propensity to
+defraud--Factories--Exports--Costume--Character---Manner of
+Living--Domestic Vermin.
+
+LETTER XIV.
+
+Fez--Debility of the Moors--Mosques--Antiquities, Roman, Carthaginian,
+and Saracen--Storks held in great Veneration--Baths--Bazars--
+Inhabitants--Residence--Menagerie--Marvellous Preservation of a
+Jew--Lions-- Tigers--Leopards--Hyenas.
+
+LETTER XV.
+
+Sudden Departure from Fez--Arrive at Mequinez--Attend the
+Emperor--Melancholy Catastrophe--Expedition against wild
+Beasts--Extensive Palaces--Seraglio--Visit a Haram--Founders of the
+City--A fortified Town--Inhabitants--Jewish Town--Rich Attire of the
+higher Orders--Numerous Market-places--Furniture--Saints
+Houses--Imperial Field Sports--Pack of Greyhounds--Abundance of Game.
+
+LETTER XVI.
+
+Courtship--Marriage--Funerals--Sabbath.
+
+LETTER XVII.
+
+Depart from Morocco--Roads dreadfully infested by Robbers--A Tribe of
+aboriginal Freebooters--Description of Morocco--Filth of the common
+People--Tobacco disallowed--Justice of the Emperor.
+
+LETTER XVIII.
+
+Moorish Character--Form of Devotion--Meals--Revenue--Poll-tax on the
+Jews--Royal Carriages--Ostrich-riding--Public Schools--Watch-dogs.
+
+LETTER XIX.
+
+Face and Produce of the Empire, natural and artificial.
+
+LETTER XX.
+
+Practice of Physic--Astrology--Poetry--Entertainment given by the
+Author to the Moors--Their Astonishment at the Effects of Electricity.
+
+LETTER XXI.
+
+Prevalent Diseases--Abuse of Stimulants--Medicinal
+Well--Sorcery--Hydrophobia.
+
+LETTER XXII.
+
+Depart for Gibraltar--Oppressive Heat--Robbers--Arrive at
+Larache--Affray of some English Sailors--Letter from the Governor to
+Lord Collingwood.
+
+LETTER XXIII.
+
+Embark for Gibraltar--Precautionary Hints.
+
+
+APPENDIX.
+
+No. I.--Letter from J. Turnbull, Esq. General Chairman of the
+Merchants trading to the Mediterranean, recommending Dr. Buffa for a
+civil medical Appointment at Gibraltar.--Dated 5th August 1805.
+
+No. II.--Letter from the Secretary of the Transport Board, informing
+Dr. Buffa that a Passage in one of His Majesty's Transports to
+Gibraltar was ordered for him and his Family.
+
+No. III.--Extract of a Letter from John Turnbull, Esq. Chairman of the
+Committee of Merchants trading to the Levant, &c. to Dr.  Buffa.
+
+No. IV.--Extract of a Letter from John Ross, Esq. Acting Consul
+General at Tangiers, to Dr. Buffa.
+
+No V.--Letter sent by a Courier from the Court of Morocco to J. Ross,
+Esq. by Permission of His Imperial Majesty's First Minister, after
+Dr. Buffa's having finally settled the Difference excited at that Time
+by the French Party in Barbary, between that Country and Great
+Britain.
+
+No. VI.--Letter from Captain Stewart, of His Majesty's Ship Seahorse,
+to the Government of Morocco, for Supplies; which Dr. Buffa was
+directed to answer, after having procured the said Supplies without
+any Charge.
+
+No. VII.--Letter from Admiral the Right Hon.  Lord Collingwood, to the
+Government of Morocco, in answer to Dr. Buffa's Official Letter to
+Captain Stewart, touching on various public Matters.
+
+No. VIII.--An Official Letter written by Dr.  Buffa, by particular
+Direction of the Emperor of Morocco, in answer to a Letter of Lord
+Collingwood of the 8th July 1806, giving his Lordship Information of
+the happy Termination of the Negotiations which Dr. Buffa carried on,
+and which all the Representations of Mr. Ross to that Court were
+unable to effect; which gave rise to a very long and expensive
+Correspondence between Mr. Ross and Dr. Buffa, Long carried on by
+constant Couriers.
+
+No. IX.--Letter written by Command of the Emperor of Morocco, to Lord
+Collingwood, in favour of Dr. Buffa.
+
+No. X.--Translation of a Letter from the Emperor of Morocco to the
+King. Referred to in the Petition.
+
+Nos. XI. and XII.--Copies of two Letters received from the Government
+bf Morocco, to which Dr. Buffa has hitherto been unable to reply.
+
+
+
+
+
+TRAVELS,
+
+&c.
+
+
+
+LETTER I.
+
+Inducement for the Journey--Arrive at Tangiers--Its History--
+Situation--Inhabitants--Military--Governor--Fortifications--
+Subterraneous Passage--Socco, or Market--Adjacent Villas--Invited to
+Larache.
+
+
+Tangiers, January 12th, 1806.
+
+I have long felt very desirous to visit a country, which,
+notwithstanding the many revolutions it has undergone, and the
+enlightened characters of its conquerors, is regarded as still
+immersed in a degree of barbarism almost unparalleled. It appeared to
+me next to impossible that a nation so contiguous to Europe, with
+which it has for centuries maintained a constant intercourse, could
+have remained in a state of such profound ignorance.
+
+Impressed with these ideas, I readily embraced the offer of a friend
+to accompany him from Gibraltar to this place, intending to travel
+further up the country, should I meet with sufficient inducement from
+the result of my observations here. We landed on the first of this
+month, and the intermediate time I have employed in obtaining
+information relative to the town of Tangiers from the earliest
+tradition to the present time. As the particulars I have collected do
+not appear devoid of Interest, I flatter myself, you will be gratified
+that I should have made them the subject of a letter.
+
+This town, which by the ancients was called _Tingis_, or Tingir, and
+appears to have been the metropolis of the _Western Mauritania_, or
+Tingitania, as it was named, to distinguish it from _Mauritania
+Caesariensis_; according to Pliny and others, was first founded
+ed fay _Antaeus_ (about a thousand years before Christ), the
+same who was afterwards conquered and slain by _Hercules_. The giant
+is supposed to have been buried here: and the report of Plutarch, that
+his tomb was opened by Sertorius, and a corpse sixty cubits or more in
+length, taken out of it, confirms the idea.  But according to others,
+_Tingis_, or the present _Tangiers_, lays claim to a more ancient
+founder than _Antaeus_. Procopius mentions, that in his time
+were standing two pillars of white stone, upon which were inscribed in
+the Phoenician characters the following words: _"We are the Canaanites
+who fed from Joshua, the son of Nun."_
+
+A colony of Carthaginians settled here, and it is most probable that a
+flourishing trade was carried on by them, as the situation of Tangiers
+is extremely well adapted for that purpose. Indeed the name _Tingis_,
+in the language of the Phoenicians and Carthaginians, signifies an
+_emporium_. When the Mauritaniae became subject to the Romans,
+in the reign of Julius Caesar, Bocchus, the son-in-law of
+Jugurtha, having defeated Bogud, the king of _Mauritania Tingitania_,
+he became possessed of that country, and Augustus, or, as some say,
+Octavius, confirmed this acquisition to him; and the inhabitants of
+_Tingis_ were allowed the privileges of Roman citizens.
+
+I cannot discover any thing further remarkable of Tangiers from the
+time it became a Roman colony, and during the period it was possessed
+by the Saracens, till the latter end of the fourteenth century, when
+it was taken by the Portuguese, who erected fortifications and other
+public works. It continued in their possession for nearly two
+centuries; and was at length given to our King, Charles the Second, as
+part of the dowry of his consort Catharine, We did not keep it long;
+for, owing to the little harmony that subsisted between that Monarch
+and his Parliament, it was ceded to the Moors in 1684, after we had
+blown up all the fortifications, and utterly destroyed the
+harbour. Since that event, it seems to have been gradually dwindling
+into its present insignificance.
+
+I have before observed, that the situation of Tangiers is well adapted
+to the purposes of commerce, being about two miles within the Straits
+of Gibraltar (or Hercules); but the ruins of the fortifications and
+harbour have rendered the anchorage in the bay of Tangiers very
+unsafe. This is a great obstacle to trade; very little is carried on
+there at present, and that little is by a few Jews, and lately, by a
+Spanish merchant of the name of Don Pedro.
+
+The town being built on the declivity of that high tract of land
+called Cape Spartel (the Cape _Cottes_ or _Ampelusian_ of the
+ancients), it is seen at a great distance; but on entering the bay, it
+appears to the best advantage.  It is defended by two martello towers,
+a castle, and a large battery; but I am confident that it could not
+withstand the attack of a few English frigates, and that such a force
+from the bay might destroy the town in the space of a few
+hours. Notwithstanding the vicissitudes to which this place has been
+exposed, it still possesses a superiority over the other towns in the
+empire of Morocco; it is the capital of the kingdom, and the residence
+of the Consuls General of the powers in amity with his Imperial
+Majesty. The houses of these foreign residents are constructed with
+great taste in the European style; the habitations of the Moors are
+neat; the air is pure and salubrious; the supply of excellent water,
+abundant; and the market cheap and plentiful.  This combination of
+advantages renders Tangiers, in many points of view, an eligible
+residence. The European society, which consists almost solely of the
+families of the foreign consuls, is pleasant and agreable, The
+adjacent country is beautifully romantic; and the opposite coast and
+bay present a most delightful prospect. The Moorish inhabitants are
+all soldiers, very poor, and entirely subject to the arbitrary will of
+the Emperor.  It is capable of furnishing, at a moment's warning,
+three thousand cavalry, and two thousand infantry and artillery-men;
+but these troops are badly trained, and without order or discipline: I
+attended their evening parade yesterday, and was truly diverted with
+the sorry appearance of their best militia-men, who were to mount
+guard for the night.  These Moorish soldiers are remarkably addicted
+to cheating. It is probably owing to their excessive indolence, which
+prevents them from making the usual exertions for obtaining a
+livelihood, and induces them to adopt the more expeditious mode of
+extorting from strangers the means of subsistence; but as they are not
+often presented with an object of prey, they continually labour
+against the pressure of extreme poverty. Tangiers is under the
+government of Sidy Ash-Ash; who resides at Tetuan. He is by no means
+partial to the English, but devoted to France; influenced by French
+principles, and French interest. Excepting a few small armed vessels,
+fitted out for piracy, there is no shipping in the harbour. I have
+observed none for the purpose of commerce; all their goods are
+exported in foreign bottoms; and when they bring in a prize, the
+vessel remains unsold for a considerable length of time, and it is
+always disposed of to a foreign merchant.
+
+Several remains of the European fortifications are yet visible; the
+Moors have repaired some, among which the western bastions still form
+a principal part of the strength of the place. The castle, which
+appears to have been built before the time of the Portuguese, stands
+in a commanding position upon one of the most prominent rocks of this
+coast. By an order of the Emperor, all the civil and military officers
+of this town are obliged to reside in it.
+
+From this castle is a subterraneous passage containing many curious
+remnants of antiquity.  On each side of the passage are ruinous
+apartments, which we may readily suppose to have been designed as
+places for the concealment of treasures, or receptacles for the
+dead. From the fragments of some urns I have collected, upon which are
+to be traced parts of inscriptions in the Punic character, I imagine
+this subterraneous place to have been built by the Carthaginians, for
+one or both of those purposes. It extends from the castle to several
+miles without the gates of the town; whence we may likewise infer,
+that it served as a means of escape in case of a sudden insurrection,
+or siege. Here are several superb mosques and commodious public baths.
+
+The _Socco_, or market, is held twice a week (on Sunday and
+Wednesday), in a spacious sandy square, outside of the western gate,
+whereto the peasants bring all kinds of provisions, and other
+necessaries, which are sold at very low rates. Fish and every sort of
+wild fowl are brought in daily, and sold very cheap. Among the
+Consuls' villas, some of which are built near the spot where the
+_Socco_ is held, that of the Swedish Consul is the most worthy of
+notice. The pleasure-ground is laid out with great taste in orange
+groves; the gardens abound in fruit-trees, and the Consul has made a
+curious botanical collection.
+
+I have just been interrupted by Mr. Matra, our Consul. He called to
+request me to go up to Larache, to attend the Governor, who is
+dangerously ill, and has sent here for an English physician. I
+intended to have continued a brief account of this empire, from the
+time it became a Roman province to the introduction of Mahometanism;
+also by what means the Moors became mixed with Arabs: but I must
+reserve this for the next opportunity.
+
+
+
+
+LETTER II.
+
+_Sketch of the History of Morocco--Road from Tangiers--Simplicity of
+the Peasants--Moors hospitable--Arrive at a Village--The ancient
+Zelis--Public Accommodations--Much infested with Vermin--Arzilla, a
+ruinous walled Town--Arrive at Larache_.
+
+
+Larache, January 1806.
+
+Before I proceed to give you the particulars of my journey to this
+place, I shall fulfil tho promise I made you in my last.
+
+The present empire of Morocco is properly the _Mauritania Tingitania_
+of the Romans, as the _Mauritania Caesariensis_ comprised
+Algiers, Tripoli, and Tunis; and was so called from the Emperor
+Claudius.  _Tingitania_ was not decidedly reduced to a Roman province
+till after the death of _Bocchus_.  Augustus afterwards gave the two
+Mauritanias, and a part of _Getulia_, to the younger _Juba_, as a
+remuneration for the loss of his father's kingdom
+(_Numidia_). _Ptolemy_, his son, by _Cleopatra_ (daughter of _Antony_
+and _Cleopatra_), succeeded him. In his reign, the Moors of this
+country were induced to revolt by a Numidian named _Tacfarinas_, who
+had served in the Roman army, and who, at the head of a set of
+barbarians accustomed to every species of robbery, assisted the revolt
+he had excited.
+
+After a variety of successes and defeats, they were completely routed
+by _Dolabella_, the Roman General, and a body of Mauritanians sent to
+his assistance by _Ptolemy_, This conquest contributed to establish
+peace for a short time in these provinces; but at the death of
+_Ptolemy_ (who was treacherously cut off by _Caius_), they again
+revolted, when _Claudius_ first fixed a Roman army in _Mauritania_.
+His generals, though not without difficulty, succeeded in restoring
+tranquillity, which scarcely met with any interruption till the latter
+end of the fifth century, when the declining state of the Roman power
+favoured another revolt, in which the Moors entirely shook off the
+yoke of the Romans, assisted by the Vandals, under _Genseric_, who
+overran Africa, and obtained possession of most of the maritime
+towns. The Vandals were expelled in the seventh century by the
+Saracens, under the Caliphs of Bagdad, a ferocious and warlike race of
+Arabs, who, from conquest to conquest, had extended and removed their
+seat of government from Medina to the city of Damascus; thence to
+_Cufa_, and from the latter place to _Bagdad_; where they established
+their Caliphate authority.
+
+Flushed with their success, and burning with the hopes of plunder, in
+the conquest of countries more fertile and richer, but less warlike
+than their own, they extended their arms as far as the western
+_Mauritania_. This country then remained for some time subject to the
+Caliphs of Bagdad, and was governed by their lieutenants, a set of
+cruel, arbitrary, and rapacious men.
+
+The distance from the seat of government, and the oppressive manner in
+which the Caliphs ruled, excited universal commotion in this part, and
+considerably diminished their authority. Their generals, far from
+suppressing, openly encouraged these tumults, and severally aspired to
+the sovereignty. In the midst of these intestine broils, _Edris_, a
+descendant of Mahomet, fled into Mauritania, to avoid the persecutions
+of the Caliph _Abdallah_, who, to ensure the succession to his own
+family, had caused the kinsmen of _Edris_ to be put to death. _Edris_
+first settled in a mountain, between Fez and Mequinez, called
+_Zaaron_, where he soon gained the confidence of the Moors. He
+preached the doctrine of Mahomet, and, by degrees, succeeded in
+establishing it throughout the country.  These people, fond of
+novelty, and extremely susceptible of fanaticism, readily embraced a
+faith so well suited to their manners and inclinations. They elected
+him their chief, and invested him with supreme power; which he
+employed in reducing the Arab generals.  From that time, the
+characters of the Moors and Arabs gradually blended, so that in
+after-ages, among the generality of them, scarcely any distinction can
+be traced.
+
+As it is foreign to my present purpose to carry you farther into the
+ancient history of this country, I shall proceed to give you tho
+particulars of my journey to this town. I left Tangiers, escorted by a
+guard, consisting of a serjeant and six horsemen, accompanied by an
+interpreter, and my few servants. We rode for several hours,
+alternately through gardens and woods: the former full of fruit-trees;
+such as orange, lemon, fig, pomegranate, apple, pear, and cherry
+trees.  The scene became every moment more interesting.  As we
+advanced, the country assumed a variety almost indescribable. The
+contrast was every where infinitely striking.  At one instant the eye
+was presented with fine corn-fields, meadows, and high hills; nay,
+mountains, cultivated to the very summits, are covered with immense
+flocks of sheep, and herds of cattle; while the vallies conveyed to
+the imagination an idea of the fertile plains of Arcadia; the simple
+manners of the Moors, who tend these flocks and herds, still further
+inducing one to believe them the happy, peaceful people, the poets
+feign the Arcadian swains to have been. On the other hand are huge
+mountains, bleak and barren, inaccessible to man, and scarcely
+affording food to the straggling wild goats that venture to browse on
+them.
+
+There is a degree of simplicity in the behaviour of the peasants, so
+widely different from these who inhabit the towns, that it is
+impossible to suppose them the same race of men. From the great
+affinity between the manners and customs of these country Moors, and
+the _Scenite Arabs_, the inhabitants of _Arabia Deserta_, we may
+naturally infer that they must have derived those habits from the
+latter.
+
+They reside in villages composed of tents to the number of forty or
+fifty, which they remove at pleasure; when the pasture fails in one
+valley, they strike their tents, and seek another, where they remain
+till the same necessity impels them to quit that in its turn.  This
+was precisely the custom of the _Arabes Scenitae_. The vast
+plains of sand with which _Arabia Deserta_ abounds, were occasionally
+interspersed with fertile spots, which appeared like little
+islands. These we're rendered extremely delightful by fountains,
+rivulets, palm-trees, and most excellent fruit.  The Arabs, with their
+flocks, encamped on some of them, and when they had consumed every
+thing there, they retired to others.  Their descendants, the present
+_Bedoweens_, continue the practice to this day. The name given to this
+kind of village is the same as that of the Arabs just mentioned, which
+is _Dow-war, or Hbyma_.
+
+The families of the Moorish peasants appear to be very numerous, as I
+observed that each tent was quite full. They flocked out as I passed,
+to gratify their curiosity in seeing a _Massarane_ (for so they
+denominate a Christian). Yet, notwithstanding their antipathy to all
+Christians, I was received with the greatest hospitality by these
+followers of Mahomet. They seemed to vie with each other in presenting
+the bowl of butter-milk, which they consider as a great delicacy, and.
+indeed, an offering of peace.
+
+In the centre of a plain, about eight hours journey from Tangiers, we
+halted, and refreshed ourselves. After allowing my serjeant and guard
+to perform their ablutions, and say their prayers, we proceeded on our
+journey, and arrived, very late in the evening, at a village on the
+banks of a large river, which, from its situation, I imagine to be the
+_Zelis_, or _Zelia_, of the ancients, and which, by its annual
+inundation, fertilizes and enriches the country to such a degree,
+that, with very little labour, it produces abundant crops of all kinds
+of grain, particularly of wheat and barley.
+
+A number of rivulets have their source in those mountains, which,
+joining others in their course, at length form pretty considerable
+rivers; and these, meeting with obstacles from the projecting rocks
+over which they pass, produce most beautiful natural cascades, which,
+precipitating themselves into the plains, preserve so great a moisture
+in the soil, that it is covered with a continual verdure.
+
+There are no public inns for the accommodation of travellers on the
+road; but the Emperor has caused stone buildings to be erected, at
+certain distances, as substitutes. These buildings are not so good as
+many of the stables in England; they resemble the sheds, made, by
+farmers, to-give shelter to their cattle in tempestuous weather: yet,
+miserable as they were, I was glad to accept the offer of a night's
+lodging in one of them, not having provided myself with a tent.
+
+The Cadi of the village conducted us to this delectable abode, which
+we found already occupied by six Moorish wanderers, who, in the
+Emperor's name, were ordered to turn out, and make room for me and my
+suite. Supper was brought me by the Cadi; it consisted, of boiled rice
+and milk, and some fresh-water fish, tolerably well dressed.  When I
+had partaken of this homely repast, I prepared myself for rest, of
+which I stood in great need from the fatigues of the day; but, alas!
+my evil genius had determined otherwise; it seemed as if all the fleas
+and bugs in His Imperial Majesty's dominions had been collected, to
+prevent my closing my eyes; or it was, possibly, a legacy bequeathed,
+me by my predecessors.  Be that as it may, I found them such very
+troublesome companions, that I preferred the night air to the prospect
+of being devoured before morning; I therefore wrapped myself up in a
+thick blanket, and slept, unmolested, in the open air, till after
+daybreak, when I found myself sufficiently refreshed to pursue my
+journey.  Crossing the river, we passed through a ruinous walled town,
+called _Arzilla_, commanded by an Alcaid, under the Governor of
+Larache. This, which is a maritime town, lies at the mouth of the
+above river, and was, according to Strabo, Pliny, and others, a
+_Phoenician colony_; it was afterwards successively in the hands of
+the Romans, Vandals, Arabs, and occupied by _Aphonso_, King of
+Portugal, surnamed the _African_. It was abandoned by the Portuguese
+in 1471, when it fell under the power of the kings of Morocco.
+
+I observed several ruins in this town and its vicinity, but could not
+stay to inspect them, It is inhabited by Moors and Jews, and is
+surrounded by gardens abounding with lemon, orange, and grape
+trees. On the evening of the same day we reached this place.  I shall
+defer the account of my reception here, and the state in which I found
+the Governor, till my next.
+
+
+
+
+LETTER III.
+
+Conducted to the Governor--Medical Hint from his Secretary--Governor
+recovers--Larache--Its Harbour, Shipping, and Inhabitants.
+
+
+Larache, February 1806.
+
+On our arrival at this place, we were met, at the gates of the
+garrison, by the Governor's public Secretary, who conducted us to a
+house belonging to Mr. Matra, and afterwards accompanied me to the
+castle to visit my patient.  On our way thither I requested the
+Secretary to give me his opinion concerning the present state of the
+Governor's health; I also asked how he had been accustomed to live,
+and how long he had been confined to his bed. "What do you mean," said
+he, "by asking such foolish questions? you are not a _tweeb_" (the
+name for a physician). I told him that I was. He continued: "That must
+be determined by your success or failure; if you succeed, you will for
+ever establish your fame in Barbary; you will be esteemed and
+respected by all the Moors; but, if you fail, and His Excellency
+should die under your hands, I would then advise you to make your
+escape as quickly and as privately as possible, and never to attempt
+to revisit this country." I confessed the weight of the encouragement
+and threats which he held out; and inquiring whether he meant to
+insinuate, that if the Governor died I should suffer death? and
+whether they always punished their tweebs thus when they dispatched
+any of their patients to the other world? he rejoined, "Not exactly;
+but consider, you are a Massarene, which makes a great difference."  I
+then intimated that I would decline having any thing to do with his
+master, and would return to Gibraltar. "You do not think of such a
+thing!" he exclaimed; "it would be unworthy of your character and
+situation.  But come; I will give you a few salutary hints, which may
+be of service to you; the rest you will discover at the bed-side, and
+on feeling the pulse of your patient, I wish you may succeed in
+recovering him; but I am afraid he is going, and that no tweeb on
+earth can save him."
+
+He then informed me that His Excellency had been attended, for some
+days past, by a celebrated tweeb, who stood high in the public
+estimation; that he had pronounced the Governor's disease incurable,
+and he had, bled him so copiously, and so repeatedly, that "I verily
+believe," added the Secretary, "he has not a single drop of blood left
+in his veins; I would therefore advise you to administer some good
+cordials, and also some nourishment, to restore his lost vigour." By
+this time we had reached the castle. I found the Governor in a
+situation truly deplorable.  He had been bled, as the Secretary
+described, _ad deliquium_, and reduced so low, that it was with great
+difficulty I could hear what he was desirous of explaining to me.
+
+His body was covered all over with purple spots, and had every
+concomitant symptom of the blood approaching to a putrescent
+dissolution, I afforded him all the assistance in my power the same
+evening; and early the next morning, when I visited him, I found him
+somewhat easier; the next day better; and thus progressively mending;
+till yesterday he was sufficiently recovered to venture on horseback,
+and I trust he will, ultimately, be perfectly restored to health and
+spirits.  He is about forty years of age, of a genteel appearance,
+exceedingly well informed, and reputed to be the most sensible officer
+in His Imperial Majesty's service, perfectly, _au fait_ in the
+intrigues and politics of the Cabinet of St. Cloud, and other nations,
+He has always been, and is still, a very steady friend to the English,
+
+During my stay here so many poor wretches applied for advice and
+medical assistance, that I have completely exhausted my stock of
+medicines, and I am, in consequence of this, obliged to decline the
+Emperor's invitation to his court. I shall return to Gibraltar for a
+supply, and shall then pay him a visit at Fez.
+
+Larache is supposed to be the famous _Lixus_, or _Lixos_, of the
+ancients, and, consequently, was in great reputation in the earliest
+ages, Pliny asserts, that the giant _Antaeus_ occasionally
+resided here; and further adds, that Hercules vanquished him in this
+neighbourhood, as he supposes the gardens of the Hesperides to have
+been not far off. This I think very probable, as the Arabic name of
+this town is _El Arais_, signifying a place abounding in gardens;
+which is still the case. The vicinity of it is, indeed, rendered
+extremely delightful by the number of gardens.  Pliny also makes the
+river Lixos (upon the banks of which the town stood), by its winding
+course, to resemble a serpent, or dragon, from which he intimates that
+this river gave rise to the fable of the Dragon guarding the golden
+apples of the _Hesperides_.  Be that as it may, the situation of the
+present Larache gives great probability to the supposition of its
+being the reputed _Lixus_ of the ancients. The learned Aldrete affirms
+the word _Lixos_ be derived from _Lachisu_, or 
+_Nahara Lachisu_, signifying _enchantment_, or the _enchanted
+river_. He observes, that the town of Lixos was situated near the
+banks of a river of the same name; and that the inhabitants of this
+country were supposed to possess uncommon skill in sorcery and magic.
+
+Many wonderful things have been related of _Antaeus_, by various
+authors, in his two residences of _Tingis_ and _Lixos_. Pliny mentions
+a Roman colony having been settled here by _Claudius_; and I should
+judge this statement to be perfectly correct, from the number of Roman
+ruins observable in and near the town. It was in the possession of the
+Spaniards in 1610, but was retaken by the Moors before the
+commencement of the eighteenth century.
+
+It is surrounded by good bastions and other works; some of which were
+constructed by the Spaniards, and the rest by the Moors. It is
+encompassed by deep trenches, with sluices to fill them with water
+from the river, The streets of this town are narrow and dirty, paved
+with large irregular stones, and consisting of abrupt ascents and
+descents, which render them unsafe to pass through on horseback.
+
+Near the castle, at the extremity of the cape, facing the Atlantic, is
+an oblong square, surrounded by a piazza, supported by colonnades,
+where the shops of the merchants are situated, and where the market
+also is held.  The cattle-market is kept in an extensive plain, to
+which you pass through a crooked way, out of the western
+gate. Thursday is the market-day.
+
+Fresh water is extremely scarce, and the inhabitants are sometimes
+greatly distressed for want of it. Larache is a seat of government,
+and contains a spacious inland harbour; but the entrance is dangerous
+from the badness of its bar, which might, however, be removed with
+little trouble and expense, so as to render the harbour very
+commodious for shipping,
+
+The harbour contains a portion of the Emperor's maritime force, which
+consists of four frigates, a brig, and a sloop of war, in very
+tolerable condition. This little fleet is commanded by an admiral, and
+sails every year in the month of May; when it cruizes about during the
+summer, picking up a few straggling vessels, and returns here to
+winter; in which time the sailors are twice a week exercised at the
+great guns. This town is now entirely occupied by soldiers and
+sailors, and their respective families. It did contain about two
+thousand Jews, whose business it was to purchase hides, wool, and wax,
+for several commercial houses established at Tetuan; but these poor
+people were obliged to leave this garrison, and take refuge in the
+neighbouring mountains, from a sudden and irrevocable decree of the
+Emperor, on account of their having sold some _aguardiente_ to the
+sailors, which occasioned a great fight, that was attended with the
+loss of three Moors.
+
+I have just received intelligence of the death of Mr. Matra; I am
+extremely sorry for this event, as, in him, we have lost a very
+powerful advocate at the court of Morocco: but it is no more than I
+expected, from the state in which I left him at Tangiers.
+
+
+
+
+LETTER IV.
+
+Excursion to Mamora, and thence to Salee--Friendly Reception by the
+Governor of the latter--Rabat--Tower of Hassen--Shella--
+Mansooria--Alcasser-- Quiber--Its Socco, or Marketplace.
+
+
+Larache, 1805.
+
+To escape from the importunities of those poor creatures who continued
+to pester me for medicines with which I could not supply them, I
+availed myself of the convalescent state of the Governor, and obtained
+his permission to make a short excursion to the nearest seaport towns
+on the western coast.  Escorted as before, I directed my way towards
+Mamora, a fortress about sixty miles off.
+
+I halted frequently to observe the face of, the country, and could not
+forbear lamenting the little knowledge I possess in the art of
+drawing; indeed, I never had more reason to regret having neglected it
+than now, as it would have enabled me to present you with some very
+interesting views, to which my pen cannot do justice.
+
+The beautiful intermixture of lakes, forests, and green vallies,
+forming most delightful landscapes, brought to my recollection those
+scenes I have so often contemplated, in my youthful days, on the
+borders of Switzerland.  The lakes abound with all kinds of
+water-fowls, and fine eels; and are surrounded by villages,
+sanctuaries, and holy houses; the latter occupied by the descendants
+of the ancient _Maraboots_, who are held in the highest veneration by
+the Moors, and whose habitations are considered as sacred asylums,
+which are never violated, either by the civil or military power.
+
+We ascended an eminence, upon which stands one of their most
+celebrated sanctuaries, built in the form of a pavilion, with four
+arched folding-doors, in the Gothic style, covered with varnished
+tiles of various colours, and embellished with curious Arabic
+characters. I was eagerly approaching, at the head of my little party,
+to gratify my curiosity, when a shower of stones, from the holy
+inhabitants of the neighbouring huts and tents, compelled me to
+desist; and after a retreat of one hundred yards, I sat down to
+refresh myself undisturbed.
+
+From this hill, however, I had a better opportunity of surveying the
+beauties of the adjacent lands, which are very productive; and also to
+observe the windings of the river _Seboo_, which, taking its source in
+the neighbourhood of Fez, forms a junction with the river _Beth_, and
+falls into the Atlantic Ocean.
+
+After journeying about a league, we crossed this river in a
+ferry-boat, and in a short time reached the fort of _Mamora_, which
+lies about two miles to the south of the river. This fort, after
+having been demolished by the Moors, was rebuilt by the Spaniards in
+1604, and taken by Muley Ishmael in 1681. It is commanded by an
+Alcaid, and inhabited by about forty or fifty families, who gain a
+livelihood by fishing for shads and eels; with which they supply the
+adjoining country during the winter season.
+
+We rested at this place, and feasted upon fried eels, which I found
+equal to those caught in the Thames. From _Mamora_ we proceeded to
+_Salee_ another maritime town, situated in the province of
+_Ben-hassen_, and at the mouth of the river _Salee_, which is formed
+by the junction of two small rivers.  The Governor of that place being
+an intimate friend of my patient, I was most kindly and hospitably
+received by him; and elegantly entertained in one of his gardens,
+which are well laid out, and ornamented with several fountains playing
+into marble basins, as well as by several delightful streams of water.
+
+Salee is a walled town, strongly defended by a large battery, mounting
+twenty-four pieces of heavy ordnance, and a redoubt which protects the
+mouth of the river. It contains about five hundred regular troops,
+three thousand militia-men, five hundred sailors, and a number of
+Moorish merchants and Jews. To the north of this garrison is a small
+town, in a ruinous state, inhabited by a few negro families. I was
+told it was built by Muley Ishmael for the accommodation of his
+favourite black troops. To the south, and on the opposite side of the
+river _Salee_, is the maritime city of _Rabat_, commanded by a black
+chief, and garrisoned with black soldiers.
+
+It is defended by a fort and strong batteries, adequate to prevent a
+hostile landing.  It contains several ruins of importance; among the
+most conspicuous of which are those of a large mosque, and the famous
+castle built by _Almansor_ the _Invincible_, together with a superb
+square tower; which latter is still in a tolerable state of
+preservation, and is called the tower of _Hassen_. This tower is about
+two hundred feet in height, strongly built with cut stone, and most
+curiously decorated with Arabic characters. It contains a staircase of
+easy ascent to the top, whence I had a most extensive prospect of the
+Atlantic Ocean, where vessels are descried sailing at an immense
+distance.
+
+The walls of Rabat are nearly two miles in circumference, and
+fortified by several square towers. Exclusive of its regular garrison,
+it contains four thousand militia-men, and about fifteen hundred
+sailors, besides several Moorish merchants and Jews; which latter live
+in a separate quarter.
+
+This town, as well as Salee, is admirably calculated for trade,
+capable of furnishing foreign markets with large quantities of wool,
+leather, wax, and other important commodities.  These contiguous
+cities are surrounded by gardens, watered by plentiful streams, which
+are artificially conveyed from a neighbouring spring, that takes its
+rise in a valley called _Tamura_, to the south of Rabat, and which
+also supplies all the houses of the two towns with fresh water.
+
+Both places contain docks for building vessels, and several small
+corvettes in the Emperor's service winter in these harbours: but the
+roads, like those of Larache, are only to be frequented from the
+beginning of April to the end of September, on account of the shifting
+of the sand, which accumulates on the wind blowing from the
+south-west, when the bar is rendered unsafe for vessels to pass.  Too
+great attention cannot be paid by commanders or masters of ships, on
+anchoring there, as a great number of anchors have been lately lost,
+and many vessels stranded.
+
+Curiosity prompted me to inspect a small ruinous town to the east of
+_Rabat_, named _Shella_, supposed to have been built by the
+_Carthaginians_: but my approach was rudely prevented by the
+inhabitants; no Christian, nor even Jew, being suffered to enter, on
+account of its containing several tombs of their most celebrated
+saints, while in fact it is only a sacred asylum for malefactors, and
+all the rogues of the country.
+
+
+To the south, and about eight leagues from _Rabat_, in a sandy and
+almost desert place, is a castle, in a most dilapidated state, called
+_Mensooria_, which was erected by _Jacob Al__mansor_, for the
+accommodation of travellers, and is still resorted to by the trading
+Moors and Jews, as a refuge at night from the attacks of robbers.
+
+Conceiving it rather hazardous to penetrate further in useless
+researches, I returned to this place, greatly chagrined at having been
+foiled in my attempts to explore the remains of antiquities in
+_Shella_, and other places. I assure you, my disappointment was not
+owing to the want either of perseverance or resolution, but the
+serjeant of my guard was an ignorant bigot, and a great coward,
+therefore unwilling and unable to protect, or share any danger with
+me. On my return here, I dismissed him, and obtained another serjeant,
+and a new guard, from the Governor, who caused my dismissed serjeant
+to be seized; and ordered him the _pallo_; but, at my intercession, he
+was pardoned, upon his promising for the future to evince a more
+soldierlike conduct, when summoned on duty.
+
+The town of _Alcasser-Quiber_ being only three leagues from this
+place, I also went thither, to see the _Socco_, which is held once a
+week, and is frequented by a vast number of the inhabitants of the
+neighbouring mountains, who carry their produce, consisting of cattle,
+fowls, eggs, butter, soft cheese, and large quantities of wool, hides,
+and wax.
+
+This city lies to the eastward of Larache, on the banks of the river
+_Luxos_, and is separated from the town of _Arzilla_ by alternate
+vallies and plains, amongst which some remains of redoubts,
+apparently, for the protection and defence of camps, are to be seen,
+and near which that unfortunate battle was fought in 1578, wherein
+_Don Sebastian_, King of Portugal, lost both his army and his life.
+
+_Alcasser-Quiber_ is a place of some note, carrying on an extensive
+and profitable commerce with Tetuan and other places. The town and its
+environs suffer greatly by the occasional overflowing of the river
+Luxos, which might however easily be remedied; but the Moors have no
+notion of altering things; therefore, without endeavouring to secure
+themselves from a recurrence of such disasters, they allow their
+houses to be filled with water, and themselves to be, not
+unfrequently, washed out of them.
+
+This town contains upwards of fifteen hundred families, exclusive of
+six hundred Jews, whose quarter is distinct from the Moors. It is
+commanded by an Alcaid, subject to the authority of the Governor of
+Larache, and ranks among the principal cities of the empire of
+Morocco.
+
+LETTER V.
+
+
+_Leave Larache with an Escort--Curious Custom on returning from
+Mecca--Arrive at Tetuan_.
+
+Tetuan.
+
+His Excellency the Governor of Larache being perfectly recovered, I
+took my departure from that city. For the sake of novelty, I proposed
+returning to Gibraltar, by this route, rather than by Tangiers. I
+obtained a letter of recommendation to _Sidy Ash-Ash_, and was
+accompanied by a strong guard, provided with a tent, and all other
+necessaries for the journey.
+
+On my way hither, I was highly entertained by the Serjeant of the
+guard. This man had not long returned from Mecca and Upper Egypt. He
+spoke Italian tolerably well, was full of strange notions, and
+considered himself quite a superior genius. He told me, that he
+expected to be promoted in a very short time, and asked me, whether I
+were present at his public entry into the garrison of Larache, on his
+return from the sanctuary of Mecca. I smiled, and answered him in the
+affirmative. He asked me, why I smiled?  "At the novelty of the
+exhibition," I replied, "in carrying you to all the mosques, and
+afterwards in escorting you in state to your humble habitation."--"It
+is but too often the practice," rejoined he, "of petulant infidels to
+ridicule us, in the exercise of pious customs and religious duties."
+Then spurring his horse, he muttered something abusive, which I
+pretended not to hear. However, I found no great difficulty in
+appeasing the pious and sanctified serjeant. In short, I dispelled all
+his glooms and ill humours, and drowned his scruples, in a cup of port
+wine. It is customary among the Moors, when any of them return from
+the pilgrimage of Mecca, to go out in great procession to meet the
+devout pilgrim, whom some of them carry on their shoulders with great
+solemnity through the town and to his own house, where he sits in
+state for three days, receiving visits and donations from all classes
+of people, who flock with the greatest eagerness to obtain a sight of
+him. The conversation was insensibly renewed, and he told me, that of
+a company of fifteen pilgrims, who set out for the holy city of Mecca,
+he was the sole survivor, the others having all perished in the
+deserts. He was the only favoured and true believer that was permitted
+to visit the holy sepulchre. He added: "As the dangers attending the
+pilgrimage are great and various, does not the happy being, who
+returns safe to his native place, deserve the honours and compliments
+paid him, for his great perseverance and patience in such a dangerous
+undertaking, the success of which is the result of his innate
+rectitude?" I gave him to understand that he had made the case
+clear. "The French," he continued, "had a design upon the treasures of
+Mecca." I agreed that they certainly had; and asked him, by what power
+he thought the French army was prevented from possessing itself of
+Mecca. "Unquestionably," rejoined he, "by the invincible and invisible
+power of our Prophet." In reply to my intimation that it was the
+British arms which defeated the French before Acre and Alexandria, and
+compelled them to give up the conquest they had made in Egypt, he went
+on to say, that "all the great acts of mankind are guided and governed
+by a supernatural power. The French were defeated by the English,
+because the latter fought under the invincible standard of _Mahomet_;
+and so fully convinced are the true believers of this, that we now
+consider the English as brethren.  I hate the French mortally; they
+are a set of bloody impious infidels, and treacherous to a degree; I
+would not escort a dog of a Frenchman for all the treasures of the
+Emperor; I would rather lose my head than protect one.  I fought the
+dogs in Egypt; but I took care not to spare one; I laid many of them
+in the dust. It behoves every honest Moor to be on his guard against
+the intrigues and duplicity of the French. A Moor can certainly face
+six of them. The Emperor's troops have more bodily strength than
+theirs. By the by, it is whispered about, that they intend paying us a
+visit to plunder us, and ravish our fine women. Let them come, we will
+meet them, I warrant you, and give them their due. Not one will return
+to France to tell his story." I then filled him another cup of port,
+to drink destruction to the French, whenever they should attempt
+either his shores or ours--and here ended our dialogue. I found him a
+_bon-vivant_, willing to overlook certain restrictions of his Prophet,
+and to drink his wine like an honest Englishman.
+
+The second day of our journey I had raised his spirits to such a
+height, that he wantonly picked a quarrel with the muleteer, and gave
+him two or three slight cuts with his sabre, which so much provoked
+the honest driver, that, being a stout robust man, he soon dismounted
+my hero, and would actually have sent him to the shades below, but for
+my interference.  When the Serjeant recovered his senses, he was very
+much alarmed lest his conduct should be exposed, or reach the ears of
+the Governor of Larache. In order therefore to dissipate the fears of
+this gallant soldier, I made the muleteer and the other swear, by
+their Prophet, to keep the transaction a secret. After this we
+travelled on merrily, without further disputes, and arrived here on
+the third day. I waited immediately upon, and delivered my letter to
+the Governor, who commanded one of his officers to conduct me to the
+house of the Vice-consul, where I now remain, in expectation of some
+vessel to convey me to Gibraltar.
+
+LETTER VI.
+
+
+_Ill Usage of a Lieutenant of the Swiftsure--Disaffection of the
+Moorish Governor towards Great Britain_.
+
+Gibraltar, March 1806
+
+His Majesty's ship the Swiftsure having arrived at Tetuan, to take in
+fresh water, I went on board. The watering-place is about eighteen
+miles from Tetuan, and six from the customhouse, at which last place
+is a tower, guarded by a strong detachment, and commanded by a
+Captain. When the ship had completed her water, signals were made to
+strike the tent, and every one to repair on board.
+
+It has always been customary for English men of war going to water
+there, to make the commanding officer a present of a cartridge of
+powder, which compliment was duly paid by the second Lieutenant of the
+Swiftsure; but the Moorish Captain, not contented with one cartridge,
+insisted upon having two. The Lieutenant refused to comply with this
+new and extraordinary demand; upon which he was immediately seized by
+a party of soldiers, who, after knocking him down, pinioned him, and
+in this degrading manner marched him up to Tetuan, under a strong
+escort.
+
+Captain Rutherford (who commands the Swiftsure), on hearing of this
+daring outrage, could with difficulty refrain from making instant
+reprisals: but unwilling to embroil the two nations, he sailed without
+delay, and arrived in the course of a few hours in this bay.  Two days
+after Mr. Wickes, the Lieutenant, joined the Swiftsure. He reports,
+that, after a most painful march, he was taken before Governor
+Ash-Ash, who released him, immediately, and promised to punish the
+Captain of the fort for the insult; a promise which, I am pretty
+confident, he never performed.
+
+Such an act will naturally inspire you with horror, and induce you to
+consider the Moors as a ferocious, barbarous set of people: but,
+believe me, it could only have been perpetrated under the government
+of _Ash-Ash_. At any other port of Barbary, a British officer will
+meet with a most kind and hospitable reception, and every mark of
+respect due to him.  The Emperor has given Ash-Ash positive orders to
+respect the English, and not to take the part of the French, directly
+or indirectly; but, as I observed in a former letter, I conceive this
+Moor to be completely under French influence.
+
+I am extremely busy in making the necessary preparations for my next
+trip; and as you are kind enough to say you are gratified with the
+account I have already sent you of the empire of Morocco, and wish me
+to continue my remarks, I shall most probably trouble you with a
+letter, whenever I meet with any thing that may serve to interest or
+amuse you.
+
+LETTER VII.
+
+_Sail for Tetuan--Appearance of the Coast--Enter the Boosega
+River--Curious Towers of Defence--Custom-house-Female Dress--Enter
+Tetuan over a Road of unlevelled Rock--Disagreeable Streets--Well
+received by the Governor--Public Markets--Socco--An Auction Market._
+
+
+Tetuan; March 14th, 1806
+
+One of His Majesty's brigs having been appointed to convey me either
+to Tangiers or Tetuan, the wind blowing due west, we sailed for this
+port. As the ship drew near the shore, I had a full view of this wild
+coast.  The tops of the lofty mountains are prodigious barren rocks,
+while their base is interspersed with broom and box. The hills and
+dales are covered with myrtles of various kinds, assuming different
+shades of lovely green. The towers and castles, which are of a
+delicate whiteness, rising in the midst of these groves of myrtles,
+render the scene interesting.  The plaster made use of in the erection
+of these towers is, of itself, extremely white; but the Moors are not
+satisfied with this, and they add a whitewash of lime.
+
+The towers are harmless as fortifications, since, for want of skill in
+the manufacture of gunpowder, the Moors are very deficient in that
+necessary article. No present therefore is more acceptable to them
+than a few cartridges of it.
+
+After firing two or three guns by way of signal to the Vice-consul,
+announcing my arrival, as the Captain had directions only to put me on
+shore, and to proceed to sea immediately to join Lord Collingwood's
+fleet, my baggage was put into a large Moorish boat, and I entered the
+river _Boosega_ (commonly called St. Martin) in the Captain's barge.
+This river is defended by a castle of singular construction, the
+entrance to which is by means of a ladder to a door in the upper
+story, and which ladder is occasionally drawn up. The four angles of
+the building are finished with small turrets, capped with clumsy
+domes, and having several ports for cannon. Near this place many of
+the Emperor's gallies anchor, and winter.
+
+Having proceeded a considerable way up the river, we landed at another
+castle, called the Custom-house. On my landing, I was received by the
+Vice-consul (an opulent Jew, and a native of Barbary), accompanied by
+the commanding officer and his troop. They conducted me to the
+Custom-house, which is built of stone, and whitewashed, arid, at a
+distance, appears to very great advantage. We entered this public
+building by an arched gateway, and proceeded through a winding passage
+into a quadrangle, in the centre of which is a well of excellent
+water. Near the well was an arcade, shaded by a grape-vine, to which I
+was conducted, and there placed in an old arm-chair. The Vice-consul
+and the Moorish commandant seated themselves cross-legged, upon mats
+spread upon the floor, and dinner, consisting of roasted fowls and
+fried sardinias, was immediately served.
+
+After dinner my baggage was put upon mules, and a saddle-horse was
+brought for me. This animal was perfectly white, and loaded with an
+enormous saddle, which had a large peak before and behind, covered
+with a scarlet cloth, and furnished with a pair of stirrups of a
+curious form, much resembling a coal-scuttle; but, _outre_ as
+this appeared, I assure you, I found myself very comfortably seated,
+and perfectly secure from falling.  Thus equipped, we set forward for
+Tetuan, accompanied by a Moorish officer and twelve horsemen.
+
+Whips are not in fashion in this country, and their place is supplied
+by two long ends of the bridle, cut to a point; but the horses, though
+very spirited, are perfectly under command, and need neither whip nor
+spur.
+
+The town of Tetuan is seen at a great distance, from being built, like
+Tangiers, on the declivity of a high hill, and the houses being
+whitewashed. The road from the Custom-house is abominably bad; it lies
+across a wearisome, barren plain, surrounded by craggy mountains. Here
+and there, indeed, may be seen a small fertile spot, covered with
+cattle, sheep, and goats, and occasionally a well, encompassed by a
+wall of broad flat stones, capable of affording a seat to a dozen
+people.  On approaching the city, however, the country appears more
+cultivated, luxuriant, and rich.
+
+The figures of some common women, apparently employed in agricultural
+occupations, struck me with surprise, as their dress was quite
+different from any I had seen when in this country before. On their
+head they wore a straw hat, of an enormous circumference; under this
+was a piece of white cloth extending over the forehead to the eyes;
+and immediately below this another, which reached as far down as the
+chin; their eyes peeping through the intermediate space. Their bodies
+were enveloped in a coarse haik, a species of serge of their own
+manufacture.
+
+Upon entering the city gate, one of my guards took hold of my bridle,
+and conducted me over innumerable rocks, to the Jewish town. The
+surface of the ground being an uneven rock, which every where remains
+unlevelled, the streets consist of abrupt ascents and descents, even
+worse than those of Larache; they are also extremely narrow and dirty;
+and as the houses have no windows towards the streets, you in fact
+pass along between two dead walls, almost suffocated by a hot and
+fetid atmosphere.
+
+When we reached the house of the Vice-consul, I was presented with a
+glass of _aguardiente_, for refreshment. After having passed the
+evening in the company of a numerous party of Barbary Jews, I retired
+to bed; and in the morning I waited on the Governor, to pay my
+respects to him. On our way thither, I was not a little surprised to
+see our Vice-consul pull off his slippers as we passed the mosques,
+and walk bare-footed. I soon learned, that the Jews are compelled to
+pay this tribute of respect, from which Christians are exempt,
+although they do not escape very frequent insults when walking through
+the city.
+
+We found His Excellency sitting cross-legged on a tiger-skin, smoking
+his pipe, under a niche in one of the courts of his mansion.  He
+received me with great politeness, and assured me that every thing
+should be arranged to render my journey to Larache safe and
+agreeable. Both, the Governor and his secretary asked me numberless
+questions respecting the laws and manners of the English; to all of
+which I gave short and general answers.
+
+As we returned from the castle we passed through a street of unusual
+breadth, on each side of which were the shops of the merchants.  I
+thence proceeded to take a general survey of the city; examining the
+different places allotted to people engaged in various branches of
+trade, and the manufactories of silk, carpets, and mats; and
+afterwards went to the public markets for meat, poultry, vegetables,
+cattle, sheep, horses, and mules. They are in spacious squares, and
+are exceedingly well stocked. I next went to see the _Socco_, which is
+a place appointed for the sale of several articles of wearing apparel
+as well as all sorts of goods, by public auction. The auctioneer walks
+backwards and forwards, exhibiting the commodities for sale, and
+bawling out the different prices offered. We returned, through several
+intricate streets, to the Jews' quarters, much fatigued, and worried
+with the impertinence and curiosity of the inhabitants.
+
+LETTER VIII.
+
+_Tetuan--The Jews much oppressed there--particularly the
+Females--Costume--Singularity of the Streets in the Jewish
+Town--Ceuta--Would be invaluable to England--Melilla--Summoned to
+visit the Emperor._
+
+Tetuan, ---- 1806.
+
+There is little that is remarkable in this town, beside what I
+mentioned in my last.  It is distant twenty miles from _Ceuta_, a
+Spanish fortress, and twelve from the Mediterranean, and is nearly
+opposite to the rock of Gibraltar. It has a good trade, and contains
+about eighty thousand inhabitants, twenty thousand of which are Jews,
+said to be very rich. The Jews are tolerably civilized in their
+manners, but are dreadfully oppressed by the Moors. Seldom a day
+passes but some gross outrage or violence is offered to the Jewish
+women, the generality of whom are very handsome, though their dress is
+by no means calculated to set off, but rather to detract from, their
+beauty.
+
+Men, women, and children, still preserve the same costume as in the
+time of Moses. You cannot conceive any thing more ridiculous than the
+_tout ensemble_ of a Barbary Jewess in full dress. Every part of her
+apparel is rich, but is so heavy, that, to an European, nothing can
+appear more awkward and unbecoming.  The Jewish ladies wear immense
+ear-rings.  I have observed several full twelve inches in
+circumference, and of a proportionate thickness; and a few ornaments
+being affixed to the ear-ring, I leave you to judge what materials
+their ears must be made of, to bear such a weighty appendage.
+
+The Jewish town is quite distinct from that of the Moors; but the
+difference between them is very little: the streets are equally narrow
+and dirty, and the houses have no windows on the outside; the roofs
+are also quite flat; the only variation is, that the streets are
+covered with a roof extending from the houses on each side, and have
+the appearance of subterraneous passages. There is a regular
+communication between the houses at the top, which is the favourite
+scene of recreation. Some of the women scarcely ever take the air,
+excepting on these flat roofs: in short, the inhabitants, both Jews
+and Moors, dance, sing, and take all their amusements on them. The
+rooms of the Jewish houses (as well as of the Moors) are long, narrow,
+and lofty, resembling galleries. Most of the houses are occupied by
+several families, which are generally large. Those inhabited by the
+more opulent are kept tolerably neat, and are adorned with rich and
+curious furniture; but they are, for the most part, exceedingly dirty;
+and the exhalations from the garlic and oil, which they use in great
+quantities in frying their fish, are enough to suffocate a person not
+entirely divested of the sense of smelling.  Their taste is so
+exquisitely refined, in regard to the oil they use, that they prefer
+our lamp-oil to any other, on account of its high flavour.
+
+Notwithstanding all these apparent obstacles to health, they contrive
+to preserve it admirably well. To an Englishman, their mode of life
+would scarcely appear worthy to be called living, but merely
+vegetating. Since the last plague, however, in Barbary, which
+destroyed a vast number of the Jews, they have not suffered from any
+infectious or contagious disorder, and their population has augmented
+so prodigiously, that the Emperor must, however reluctantly, extend
+the limits of their town. The Jews marry extremely young.  It is not
+at all unusual to see a married couple, whose united ages do not
+exceed twenty-two or twenty-three years.
+
+I cannot quit Tetuan, without giving you some account of _Ceuta_,
+which is at so small a distance from it. From its situation, it
+perfectly corresponds with the _Exillissa_ of _Ptolemy_, being the
+first maritime town to the eastward of the ancient _Tingis_, or modern
+Tangiers. It also clearly appears to have been the _Septa_ described
+by _Procopius_, who, with many others, derives this name from the
+adjacent seven hills. It was a place of great note in the time of the
+Vandals. It is now a strong regular fortified town. Ceuta is thirty
+miles from Tangiers, and nearly opposite to the entrance of the bay of
+Gibraltar.  It is nominally still in the hands of the Spaniards; but
+it is confidently rumoured, and believed, to have been ceded by treaty
+to the French. This important fortress has been, and is still,
+occasionally most awfully distressed for want of provisions; insomuch,
+that if closely besieged by land, by the Moors, and blocked up by the
+English by sea, it could not hold out any considerable time in
+possession of the French. The advantages resulting to Great Britain
+from such a valuable acquisition are incalculable.
+
+Every person who is acquainted with the situation of Ceuta, the rival
+of Gibraltar, must be very much astonished, that it should still be
+permitted to remain in the possession of the Spaniards, since a
+squadron of men of war, and a flotilla of gun and bomb vessels, might
+reduce it, even without the assistance, of the Moors; and thereby
+England would be sole mistress of the entrance to the
+Mediterranean. Convoys could collect in safety at Ceuta, and our trade
+in this sea be comparatively secure from annoyance. I understand this
+place was closely invested by Muley Yezid (the late Emperor of
+Morocco, and brother to the present Emperor), but for want of proper
+co-operation by sea, where it is most vulnerable, he was necessitated
+to raise the siege, and withdraw his troops.
+
+This garrison is supplied with provisions from Spain, the Moors being
+prohibited, on pain of death, from sending their commodities thither;
+and in order that this interdiction may be strictly observed, picquets
+and posts of Moorish cavalry and infantry are so judiciously
+stationed, that it is impossible for the mountaineers to smuggle in
+the smallest article.  The supplies from Spain are extremely
+precarious, from the necessity of conveying them in small fishing
+craft, to prevent their falling into the hands of the English.
+
+_Melilla_ also is in the possession of the Spaniards: this maritime
+town lies to the eastward of Tetuan. Many authors assert it to have
+been founded by the _Carthaginians_. It is likewise called _Melela_,
+from the great quantity of honey annually obtained in its
+neighbourhood. It was taken by the Spaniards about the beginning of
+the fifteenth century, and has remained under their dominion ever
+since. It has a strong castle, built on a rock, named _Gomera_. Along
+this coast, particularly from Tetuan to Melilla, there are several
+coves, in which the Spanish gunboats, and other small armed vessels,
+find shelter in cases of necessity. Indeed _Melilla_ is itself a place
+of refuge for those vessels of the enemy fitted out for the annoyance
+of our Mediterranean trade.
+
+I shall conclude this with a copy of a letter, which I have just
+received from Mr. Ross, the acting Consul-general in the room of the
+late Mr. Matra:
+
+
+"DEAR SIR,                 _Tangiers_,
+
+"I heard only to-day of your arrival at Tetuan, on your way to
+Larache; and this evening I received a letter from Sidy Mahommed
+Eslawee, Governor of that place, to request, that, if I knew you were
+in this country, I would beg you to use, every possible endeavour to
+come to him at Larache, and to accompany him to the Emperor, who
+wishes very much to see you. Let me therefore request your repairing
+as quickly as possible to Larache, and joining him before he departs;
+but should you miss him, he has left orders with his
+Lieutenant-governor there, to forward you on immediately. I should
+hope this jaunt will prove highly beneficial to you. Nothing on my
+part shall be wanting, either in advice, or information, by which you
+may think I can be of service. If you should see Governor Eslawee
+before my letter reaches him, give him my kindest and best wishes; and
+say that I hope, as he has been for a great many years past a sincere
+friend to the British nation, his friendship will continue true and
+steadfast.
+
+    "I remain, dear Sir,
+
+      "Your most obedient humble servant,
+
+             (Signed) "JOHN ROSS,
+
+                 "To Dr. Buffa,
+                  &c. &c. &c.
+                   Tetuan."
+
+
+In consequence of this request, I am making preparations for my
+departure by to-morrow morning. I shall write to you again from
+Larache. Though I have described every thing worthy of notice in that
+town in a former letter, yet I know you will wish to learn how I am
+received by the Governor on this my second trip.
+
+
+
+
+LETTER IX.
+
+_Journey to Larache--Annual Socco of St. Martin--No Christian
+permitted to witness it--Express Order for that Purpose in the
+Author's Favour--Specimen of native medical Skill--Reception at
+Larache--Complain of the Impositions of Governor Ash-Ash--Comparative
+Tariff--Effect the Renewal of the old Tariff with increasing
+Advantages._
+
+
+Larache.
+
+Before I introduce you a second time to the Governor, or relate my
+reception from him, I must beg leave to give you a description of my
+journey hither. Methinks I hear you say, "That is unnecessary, as, no
+doubt, it was much the same as before." No such thing, I assure you;
+for, in the first place, my style of travelling was infinitely
+superior, being provided, by the Moorish Governor, with a double
+guard, and having also eleven mules allowed me to carry my baggage,
+which, with two muleteers, my interpreter, and servant, made no
+despicable appearance. I had, besides, to contend with very stormy
+weather, which gave the country quite a different aspect.  From
+incessant rains, the rivers had overflowed, and nearly the whole of
+the country was under water, which rendered our journey not only
+difficult but dangerous. We were obliged to halt for two days, near a
+village, till the waters subsided; and during this time we feasted on
+fine fresh-water fish, and wild fowl. On the third day we proceeded;
+and here I must not omit an occurrence which served still further to
+give me an insight into the general character of this once powerful
+people.
+
+Fortunately (or unfortunately, some would say, who weighed the perils
+I had to encounter in the accomplishment of my wishes) I passed, on
+the day the inhabitants were meeting, the annual Socco of St. Martin,
+so called from its being held at the place whence the river of that
+name takes its source. I did not pass immediately over the spot, but
+so near, that I could perceive a multitude of people assembled
+together.  To obtain a better view of what they were about,
+notwithstanding the representations of my conductors, that no
+Christian was suffered to be present at this fair, I proceeded towards
+the crowd; but before I could reach the place, I was assailed by
+hundreds of people, who saluted me with such a discharge of stones,
+and even some fire-arms, that I was extremely glad to make good my
+retreat, which, with the aid of my guard, I effected, without
+sustaining any injury.
+
+Enraged at being thus foiled in my attempt, I hit upon a plan the most
+likely to succeed in gratifying my curiosity; which was, to send the
+Serjeant to the Cadi, to insist upon going up to the fair, and
+threatening to complain to the Emperor if he refused me. This had the
+desired effect. A deputation was ordered by the Cadi, with assurances
+that I was welcome among them. Accordingly, I repaired once more, to
+the scene of action.
+
+The great show of cattle, sheep, &c. exposed for public sale, by men
+and women half naked, first attracted my attention; which was however
+soon diverted from them to a Moorish juggler, and a rope-dancer, the
+latter performing several feats of great muscular strength. The people
+had formed a complete circle, sitting cross-legged round the
+rope-dancer. He was making a good collection, when the arrival of a
+celebrated _tweeb_ (the native term for a physician) spoiled his
+sport. At the sound of an instrument somewhat resembling a horn, they
+all started up, and flocked to the standard of this professor of the
+healing art, leaving the poor rope-dancer to finish his performance,
+or not, as he pleased. I found this new constellation to be a doctor
+of high renown, and a reputed saint, who lived in a neighbouring
+village, and who, as was his custom, had condescended to honour this
+annual meeting with his presence; selling and dispensing his
+medicines, arid at the same time performing surgical and dental
+operations.
+
+In order to have a full view of this Moorish Esculapius, I approached
+as closely as the multitude collected round him would allow. He was
+attended by a negro slave, and two disciples.  Ere long, four Moors
+brought a poor emaciated wretch, to obtain advice and relief from this
+redoubtable doctor. The unfortunate man was unable, from his reduced
+state, to stand. Having examined the eyes, tongue, and face of his
+patient, he made a solemn pause, and appeared to deliberate very
+profoundly, at length, he decided upon blood-letting _ad deliquium_,
+and immediately took from his patient eighteen ounces of blood; nor
+would he, in all probability, have stopped there, had the strength of
+the poor man allowed him to continue; but having brought on a
+_syncope_, he was obliged to desist. The arm was tied up with a
+handkerchief; the doctor received his fee from one of his patient's
+relatives; and the patient was left entirely to the efforts of nature
+in his favour. For humanity's sake, I afforded him every assistance in
+my power, and, after much difficulty, succeeded in restoring him to
+his senses; but he was so weakened by the absurd treatment he had
+experienced, as to have no chance of surviving the day. As the
+multitude firmly believed him to be quite dead, this apparent
+resuscitation astonished the people beyond measure; and from this
+circumstance supplies of every kind of provision were poured in on me,
+from all quarters.
+
+Soon after the above scene, a young woman presented herself, afflicted
+with a violent tooth-ache. The doctor, after his usual deliberation,
+resolved to extract the dolent tooth; and taking a string from his
+box, he fastened it round the tooth, and by a sudden jerk (which, from
+its force, I expected would have brought away jaw and all), he drew it
+out.  The poor girl bore the operation with exemplary patience and
+fortitude; and having satisfied the sapient doctor, she retired.
+
+Whilst I was thus occupied in observing the wonderful proceedings of
+this singular practitioner, an uproar in another part of the fair
+attracted my notice. Curiosity prompted me to inquire into its cause,
+and I found it was occasioned by a wild mountaineer, who had been
+detected in the act of stealing a Moorish garment.  He was seized, and
+taken before the Cadi, who ordered him the bastinado immediately;
+which was inflicted with such severity, that I could not forbear
+interceding for the fellow. The Cadi kindly remitted part of the
+punishment, and the culprit was set at liberty.
+
+Finding nothing else likely to compensate my longer stay, I summoned
+my suite, and proceeded on my journey, reflecting on the mutability of
+all earthly prosperity, which was so strongly exemplified in the
+history of the Moorish nation. The scene I had just left, argued such
+a small remove from absolute barbarism, that, more than once, I could
+not avoid exclaiming: "Are these the descendants of those people, who,
+for so many centuries, gave laws to the greater part of Spain, and
+subjected whole provinces to their dominion?  But those times are
+past, and, 'like the baseless fabric of a vision,' left 'not a wreck
+behind'."
+
+After a journey of six days (which might have been performed in three,
+but for the delays I have spoken of), we arrived here. His Excellency
+the Governor, and his suite, came out to meet me. He embraced me very
+cordially, and conducted me to the castle, where I was served with a
+sumptuous collation. The Governor being in hourly expectation of the
+orders of his Sovereign to repair to court, has his route made out,
+and has requested me to keep myself in readiness to depart at an
+hour's notice.
+
+
+I have received several letters by express, from, our Consul-general,
+complaining of Governor _Ash-Ash_, who has refused granting the
+regular supplies to our fleet, and the garrison of Gibraltar. From the
+character I have given you of this man, in a former letter, you will
+feel less astonished, when I inform you of his shameful conduct.  His
+rapacity and avarice are unbounded.  He refuses the regular supplies,
+insisting upon an additional duty being paid, besides the enormous one
+already imposed, on articles furnished to the English, contrary to the
+tariff established by treaty. Accordingly, I laid the following copy
+of the original tariff before His Excellency, and subjoined the
+imposition of Ash-Ash.  _Order to be observed by the British
+Vice-consuls, at Tetuan and Tangiers, respecting the English._
+
+
+                                                   DUTY.
+                                              Spanish Dollars
+    Cows, calves, and oxen, whether
+      stall-fed or not, per head                 5 now  25
+
+                                               Cobs.     Cobs.
+    Sheep and goats, per ditto                   2  --    7
+    Fowls, per dozen                             1  --    6
+    Lemons and oranges, per thousand             1  --    5
+    Eggs, Per ditto                              1  --    5
+    Dates, per quintal                           4  --    8
+    Orange-trees, each                           1  --    2
+    Figs, raisins, almonds, nuts, rhubarb,
+       oil, honey, soap, olives,
+       and red pepper, per quintal               2  --   12
+    Wheat, barley, oats, rice, and bean, 
+       per measure                               1  --    6
+    Straw, by the nett                         1/4  --    1
+    Pomegranates, amber-wood, %c., per quintal   1  --    4
+    Bees-wax and candles, per ditto             14  --   26
+    Ostrich feathers, per lb.                    2  --   16
+    Ivory, copper, sandrach, chohob,
+       and gum arabic, per quintal               5  --   15
+    Indigo, per ditto                            1  --   10
+    Goat skins, per quintal                      4  --    8
+    Beef ditto, per ditto                        3  --    6
+    Lion and tiger ditto, each                   4  --   12
+    Common tanned leather,per quintal            1  --    5
+    Morocco ditto                             free  --    5
+    Wool and hemp, per quintal                   3  --    6
+    All shoes and slippers,per hundred pair      4  --   10
+    Moorish caps, per ditto                      4  --   10
+    Mats, each                                   1  --    5
+    Mules, ditto                                10  --   50
+    Asses, ditto                                 5  --   10
+    Silk alhaiks, ditto                          2  --    5
+    Haiks of other kinds, ditto                  1  --    3
+
+This is a correct translation of the agreement, and tariff, settled
+eleven years ago, between the present Emperor Muley Solyman, and the
+late Consul-general Mr. Matra.  Having laid this before His
+Excellency, I was so fortunate as to prevail on him to request the
+Emperor to renew it, and to grant an increase of fresh provisions,
+during the war, to the fleet off Cadiz, and to the garrison of
+Gibraltar.
+
+It is impossible to doubt for a moment, at at whose instigation it was
+that Ash-Ash behaved in this infamous manner. It is certainly the
+interest of the French nation to prevent, if possible, our receiving
+supplies from Barbary; consequently we cannot wonder that every means
+should be employed to accomplish this end, and Ash-Ash is certainly
+the fittest instrument, from his hatred to the English: fortunately,
+however, he is not a free agent. My friend, and the friend of the
+English, the good Governor of this place, referred the whole to the
+Emperor, who has very satisfactorily adjusted every thing to our
+advantage, and the mortification of the French Consul, and his tool.
+
+At the same time that His Excellency received the answer from the
+Emperor to the above-mentioned application, a letter arrived,
+requiring his immediate attendance at Fez; from which place you shall
+again hear from me.
+
+LETTER X.
+
+_Depart from Larache with a little Army--Moorish military
+Salute--Numerous Villages--Customary Procession of the
+Inhabitants--Judicial Arrangements--River Beth resembles the Po--Herds
+of Camels--Arrive at Mequinez--French Falsehood again put
+down--Excellent Road from Mequinez--Fertility and Luxuriance of the
+adjacent Country--Procession to the Sanctuary of Sidy
+Edris--Multiplicity of Saints--Ceremony demonstrative of the Emperor's
+Favour--Take possession of my new Residence._
+
+
+Fez, ---- 1806.
+
+In consequence of the dispatches received from the Emperor, we left
+Larache the same day. The Governor commands a territory of two hundred
+English miles. He put himself at the head of his troops, which
+amounted to six thousand cavalry, divided into squadrons,
+distinguished by their respective standards.  There were in his train,
+besides, a prodigious number of mules, some carrying field equipage
+and provisions, others the treasures, consisting of the collected
+taxes, and presents for the Emperor.
+
+This little army moved on in tolerably good order and discipline. It
+was preceded by an officer at the head of a small corps, doing the
+duty of a Quarter-master-general. We were met on our way by several
+officers, with small detachments of soldiers, under the government of
+His Excellency. The Moorish mode of saluting attracted my attention;
+when on a level in point of rank, the officers embrace each other, and
+then kiss the back of their own hand; but in saluting a superior, they
+kiss the hem of his garment; upon which he presents his hand, and they
+salute it. I assure you, they do all this with considerable grace.
+
+In passing through villages (which in this part are very numerous, and
+formed of a much greater collection of tents than those described in a
+former letter), we were received by a great concourse of men, women,
+and children, shouting, and making a noise exactly resembling the
+whoop of the North American savages. I was informed, that this was
+their usual mode of expressing their joy and mirth, on all great and
+solemn occasions.  A venerable Moor, the chief of the surrounding
+villages, accompanied by the military and civil officers, and by the
+principal inhabitants, advanced to kiss the garment of His Excellency:
+this ceremony was closed by a train of women, preceded by an elderly
+matron, carrying a standard of colours, made of various fillets of
+silk; and by a young one of great beauty, supporting on her head a
+bowl of fresh milk, which she presented, first to the Governor (or, as
+he is otherwise called, the Sheik), then to me, and afterwards to all
+the officers. This ceremony is always performed by the prettiest young
+woman of the village; and it not unfrequently happens, that her beauty
+captivates the affections of the great men (sometimes even the
+Emperor), and she becomes the legitimate and favourite wife.
+
+When we arrived at any village, His Excellency halted to receive the
+report of the commanding officer; and to inquire if any murder,
+robbery, or other crimes, militating against the laws and constitution
+of the empire, had been perpetrated. This excellent man patiently
+listened to all the complaints made to him; and after hearing both
+parties with the greatest impartiality, he ordered such delinquents as
+stood fairly convicted to be punished by imprisonment, or fine,
+according to the nature of their offences. At one place where he held
+a court of justice, he received information of a band of assassins who
+had lately committed several murders and highway robberies, and had
+violated many young women, whom they afterwards destroyed.  By this
+prompt and judicious arrangement, they were all secured, and brought
+before him. He ordered them to be dragged in the rear of his troops to
+Fez; there to receive whatever punishment the Emperor might think fit
+to award them.
+
+We performed our route by short and easy stages, on a road which is
+perfectly level, and very different from those between Tetuan or
+Tangiers and Larache. We generally halted about two o'clock in the
+afternoon, and encamped; struck tents again at four in the morning,
+and then moved on regularly without noise or confusion.
+
+On approaching the river _Beth_, we halted, to allow the baggage to
+cross, which was expeditiously conveyed in a large ferry-boat; the
+horses and mules were obliged to swim over, a spectacle curious and
+diverting enough.  I passed over with the Governor; after which the
+boat went backwards and forwards till the whole of the troops were
+transported across the river, when we encamped, the side which we had
+quitted being occupied by another little army, headed by the Governor
+of another district. The two opposite camps had much the appearance of
+two hostile armies previous to a battle.
+
+This river very much resembles the _Po_ in Italy, and is perfectly
+navigable. On each side are immense fields of corn and rice,
+intersected by tracts of waste land covered with broom and heath, and
+spots of pasture-land on which large droves of camels graze. To
+prevent the camels from straying, they have one of their fore legs
+bent at the first joint, and tied up: they are attended by boys, who
+take them out early in the morning, and at night bring them back to
+the tents, before which each camel takes his place as regularly as our
+cows do in their stalls.
+
+The next morning we reached a castle, and a ruinous walled town,
+occupied by soldiers, and slaves, who look after the herds of mules
+belonging to the Emperor. It is situated on a hill, whence I had a
+prospect of the immense plain we had first traversed, upon which not a
+single tree is to be seen.
+
+About noon, on the sixth day, we approached a lofty mountain, which
+terminated this extensive plain, and formed the commencement of a
+chain of high hills, which we ascended and descended successively, and
+at length descried the large and populous city of Mequinez: we passed
+by a long aqueduct, a remnant of ancient architecture, and several
+Roman ruins, and reached one of the great gates of the town, where we
+were met by a strong detachment of soldiers commanded by the Governor,
+who, after the salutations and ceremonies usual on such occasions,
+escorted us to the palace of Eslawee, the Governor of Larache, where I
+was kindly received and most hospitably entertained by all his
+relations and friends.
+
+On the morning after our arrival at Mequinez, an express arrived from
+the Emperor with an answer to a representation which I had made
+concerning the loss of a French privateer on the coast of Barbary; I
+had sent it at the same time with that respecting the tariff, and
+expected the answers together.  The affair was this: a French
+privateer attempted to board several of our transports, laden with
+bullocks, from Tangiers for Gibraltar; but had scarcely succeeded with
+one, when the Confounder gun-brig, which was appointed to convoy them,
+came unobserved, within pistol-shot, and after an obstinate engagement
+of two hours the Frenchman ran on shore, and went to pieces
+immediately under the Moorish battery.  This was considered, by the
+French Consul and his party, as an open violation of neutrality, and
+also a gross insult to His Imperial Majesty; and as such it was
+represented to him by Governor _Ash-Ash_, seconded by a letter from
+the French Consul, and supported by all his partisans. On our part,
+the statement was founded on simple facts, which perfectly satisfied
+the Emperor, and Governor _Ash-Ash_ received a severe reprimand,
+accompanied by the remark, that His Imperial Majesty regretted the
+English had been so passive on this occasion, and that his subjects
+did not exterminate every Frenchman that presumed to land on his
+shores without his permission. You will feel assured that this
+additional triumph on our part gave me no small satisfaction.
+
+My good friend Eslawee obtained leave likewise, to repose himself and
+his army for three days in his native place. This condescension was
+esteemed as an excellent omen.  At the conclusion of the appointed
+time, we set off for this our ultimate destination. The road from
+Mequinez to Fez is excellent, extending along a pleasant and spacious
+plain, encompassed by high mountains, and intersected by small rivers,
+over which are stone bridges. These rivers are divided into several
+branches, which are again subdivided by the inhabitants, and carried
+in canals to water their lands. The prospect of the country is every
+where luxuriant in the extreme, and continually presents the most
+interesting objects.  A scattered ruin, a large village, a meandering
+river, or a fine natural cascade, vineyards, woods, corn-fields,
+meadows, and saints' houses, surrounded by beautiful gardens and
+shrubberies, all lying in endless variety, formed the most picturesque
+landscapes.
+
+As we left our quarters at Mequinez rather late, we encamped at eight
+o'clock in the evening at the opening of the plain I have just
+described. The next morning we set off much earlier than usual, but
+had not proceeded far when our progress was interrupted by a
+prodigious multitude of people, who pressed forward with such
+eagerness, that we were obliged to stand aside, and allow them to
+pass. Men, on horseback and on foot, women, and children, formed a
+procession which extended as far as the eye could reach. They were
+advancing in several divisions, each division preceded by a man
+bearing a standard, and by a band of music (if the horrible discord
+produced by their instruments could be dignified with the name of
+music), the people accompanying the band with their voices, shouting,
+bawling, and bellowing their national songs with the greatest
+vehemence.
+
+These people were on their way to visit the sanctuary of _Sidy Edris_,
+the founder of Mahometanism in this country: it stands on the mountain
+_Zaaron_, at the western side of the plain of Fez, and near the city
+of Mequinez.  Close to the sanctuary is a village, the inhabitants of
+which are held in the highest veneration, their huts and tents being
+consecrated to the Mahometan devotion, and, as well as the sanctuary,
+forming asylums for malefactors, which are never violated even by the
+Emperor. After this visit to the sanctuary, they attend an annual
+meeting, where they feast for three days, amusing themselves with
+dancing, fighting with wild beasts, and committing all kinds of excess
+in the ancient Bacchanalian style.
+
+Formerly saints sprang up in Barbary like mushrooms. A Moor, seized in
+the night with a slight fit of insanity, was considered in the morning
+as a new saint, and as such he was revered, and his name added to
+their list of saints. In consequence of this, he was permitted to do
+whatever his fancy directed, without suffering the smallest
+molestation.  Hence many worthless wretches feigned madness, in order
+that they might, with impunity, gratify their avaricious and
+revengeful passions, or their violent and ungovernable lust. The
+number of these impostors a few years back was incredible, and they
+literally held sovereign rule, from their numbers and great influence
+over this superstitious and fanatic people; but since the accession of
+Muley Solyman to the throne of Morocco, their influence and their
+numbers have considerably decreased. The country has been in a great
+measure swept and cleansed of imposters and other profligate persons,
+and the rest approach more and more towards a tolerable degree of
+civilization, under his paternal care and example. His chief study and
+attention appear to be directed to the welfare and happiness of his
+people.
+
+We received no further interruptions; but reached this place on the
+26th of April. On approaching the walls of the imperial palace, His
+Excellency formed his little army into a line of two deep. They fired
+a _feu de joie_ with great precision and correctness. This done, they
+filed off to the place allotted for our encampment. Shortly after, two
+black slaves arrived from the palace, with a large bowl of fresh milk,
+and several cakes of bread, which were presented with much ceremony to
+His Excellency the Sheik, and received by him with marks of the most
+profound respect.  This compliment was also paid to me, and to all his
+officers. This ceremony in Barbary, indicates that the person so
+honoured is a friend and favourite at the court of Morocco. The other
+Governors, with the exception of three, received the same honour,
+successively as they assembled on the plains of Fez, to be afterwards
+reviewed by the Emperor at the anniversary celebration of the birth of
+Mahomet. The three disgraced Governors were arrested the next day,
+thrown into prison, and condemned to remain there at the pleasure of
+the Emperor. Their whole property, amounting, as I am told, to several
+hundred thousand dollars, was confiscated.
+
+My friend finding himself thus perfectly secure, appeared in high
+spirits, and proceeded to the palace to prostrate himself before his
+sovereign. He was received with every mark of the highest approbation
+and favour. At his return to the camp, he came to me with a smiling
+countenance, and related the flattering reception he had met with. He
+then informed me, that the Emperor had given orders, that a convenient
+house should be immediately provided for me, and that an officer of
+the household was coming to conduct me to my new habitation. This
+officer arrived while we were talking, and I followed him to my place
+of residence, which I found exceedingly neat and commodious. This I
+continue to occupy, and am furnished abundantly with all the
+delicacies which the city of Fez affords.
+
+I have exceeded the bounds of moderation in this letter already, and
+must therefore postpone my introduction till my next.
+
+LETTER XI.
+
+_Imperial Review of eighty thousand Cavalry--The Palace--Introduction
+to the Emperor--Visit the Seraglio--Beauty of the Sultana--Her
+Indisposition--Her Influence over the Emperor--His Person described._
+
+Fez, ---- 1806.
+
+Late in the evening of the day of my arrival, I was visited at my
+house by an officer, who informed me that his royal master would
+review his troops the following morning, and that, if I chose to be
+present, I must repair to the palace precisely at four o'clock.
+
+I was there exactly at the time, and in a few minutes the Emperor
+appeared, mounted on a beautiful white horse, attended by an officer
+of state, holding over him a large damask umbrella, most elegantly
+embroidered, and followed by all his great officers, body-guards, and
+a numerous band of music. He was greeted with huzzas in the Moorish
+style by the populace, and received at all the gates and avenues of
+the town with a general discharge of artillery and small arms, the
+people falling upon their knees in the dust as he passed.  The streets
+were covered with mats, and the road, as far as the plain where the
+troops were drawn out, was strewed with all kinds of flowers.
+
+The army was formed into a regular street of three deep on each side,
+each corps distinguished by a standard; it extended to a great length,
+through the immense plain of Fez, and presented a grand military
+spectacle.  There were not less than eighty thousand cavalry.  This
+review was finished in six hours, and His Imperial Majesty was so much
+pleased with the steady, orderly, and soldierlike appearance of his
+troops, that he commanded a horse to be given to each of the officers,
+and an additional suit of clothes and six ducats more than is
+customary to the men. No other exercise was performed on this
+occasion, than charging, firing off their pieces, and priming and
+loading at full gallop, by alternate divisions.  Thus an incessant
+fire was kept up during the day.
+
+The ground being perfectly level and good, no accident occurred. The
+dress of the Moorish army differs very little from that of the
+people. The officers are distinguished by their turbans, from the
+privates, who wear red caps. They are considered most excellent
+horsemen, and appeared to be supplied with very fine young horses, and
+well appointed. I can say but little of the infantry and artillery of
+His Imperial Majesty, not having had an opportunity of seeing them
+assemble in any sort of exercise. The cavalry are unquestionably most
+capital marksmen, and very capable of annoying and harassing and
+checking the progress of an invading army. The men are stout, strong,
+and robust, accustomed to a continual state of warfare, and, from
+their simple and moderate manner of living, fully adequate to sustain
+the fatigues and privations of the most arduous campaign.
+
+In the Moorish army there is a prodigious number of blacks, who are
+reckoned very loyal, and perfectly devoted to the Emperor.  This
+accounts for so many black governors being at the head of the most
+important districts and provinces of Barbary,
+
+I returned very late from the review, and had scarcely dined when a
+messenger came to request my early attendance the following morning,
+to be presented to His Imperial Majesty.  I repaired betimes to the
+palace, which is an immense pile of buildings, enclosed by a strong
+wall and a large deep ditch. It has four great gates, plated, both on
+the outside and in, with sheets of iron. I entered the front gate, and
+by a covered way reached a spacious court, surrounded by a piazza,
+under which several field-pieces and small mortars were placed. Here I
+was met by Sidy Ameth, a black officer, who acts as master of the
+ceremonies, and lord in waiting. He received me with great politeness,
+and conducted me, through another gate and covered way, to a second
+square more spacious than the first. In the centre was a most
+beautiful white marble basin, into which played a fountain of water
+clear as crystal. Over it was a kind of rotunda, supported by columns
+of elegant black marble. This superb square is paved with small pieces
+of marble, intermixed with pebbles of various colours, in the mosaic
+style. It is formed by four wings of the building. The front wing,
+exclusive of its magnificent entrance, contains several apartments and
+waiting-rooms, occupied by the great officers of state; the right, the
+library, and the treasury of the Emperor; the left, a superb mosque,
+and a school-room for the use of the Emperor's children, where they
+are taught to read and write, and study the Alcoran; and finally, the
+back, the great hall of audience, in which His Imperial Majesty was
+seated cross-legged upon a kind of couch, under a crimson velvet
+canopy, most beautifully decorated with figured work in gold.
+
+I was introduced by Sidy Ameth; and after making my obsequious
+reverence, I stood at a great distance, waiting the Imperial commands,
+when His Majesty was graciously pleased to order me, by signs, to draw
+near, and then, by means of an interpreter, he informed me, that, in
+consequence of the good I had done his subjects during my residence at
+Larache, he had long been anxious to see and consult me. He desired me
+to ask any favours I chose, either for myself or my country, and they
+should be granted immediately.  I thanked His Majesty for his
+condescension, and then presented him with a patent pistol, with seven
+barrels, which he examined very attentively in every part, and
+appeared highly pleased with its construction.
+
+He commanded the hall to be cleared, and in a very friendly and
+familiar way told me the nature of his complaint; after which he
+summoned the chief eunuch, and desired me to follow him to the
+seraglio, to prescribe for his favourite Sultana, who was seriously
+indisposed.  On leaving the hall of audience, we turned to the left,
+and arrived at a gate, which terminated the piazza on the right side
+of the square. Through this gate we entered a large passage, paved
+with marble; on each side were marble benches, upon which the eunuch
+informed me, the inferior eunuchs and the female attendants of the
+seraglio slept.  This passage conducted us to another square, on the
+right of which is the Imperial bath.  It is almost impossible to form
+an idea of the elegance and convenience of this structure, which is
+used only by the Emperor.
+
+Adjoining the bath is a refectory, which is constantly supplied with
+every kind of refreshment.  The other sides of this square contained
+the apartments of two or more ladies of His Imperial Majesty. It would
+be tedious to enumerate the several squares through which I passed;
+they differ only in splendour and magnificence, according to the rank
+and taste of those ladies to whom they belong: they all communicate
+from one piazza to another, by means of passages, such as I have
+described. I was extremely indebted to my black conductor for giving
+me an opportunity of seeing the whole of the seraglio; for I returned
+by a much less circuitous route than that by which I went, the
+apartments of the Sultana being just behind the Imperial bath.  But
+where shall I find words to give you an adequate idea of their lovely
+inhabitant? Conceive every thing that is beautiful, and you may
+possibly arrive near the mark. She is rather below the middle size,
+exquisitely fair, and well proportioned. When I first saw her, she was
+in a very doubtful state, and I reported accordingly to the Emperor;
+he was sensibly affected, and besought me to exert my utmost skill, to
+preserve a life of so much value to him. Happily, my efforts have been
+crowned with success, and I hope a very short time will restore her to
+perfect health. She controls him in every thing, and is considered,
+from her absolute dominion over him, as the fountain of all favours.
+
+The gardens of the seraglio are beautifully laid out by Europeans, and
+contain several elegant pavilions and summer-houses, where the ladies
+take tea and recreate themselves; baths, fountains, and solitary
+retreats for those inclined to meditation: in short, nothing is
+wanting to render this a Complete terrestrial paradise, but liberty,
+the deprivation of which must embitter every enjoyment.
+
+Muley Solyman, the present Emperor, is about thirty-eight years of
+age, in height about six feet two inches, of a tolerably fair
+complexion, with remarkably fine teeth, large dark eyes, aquiline
+nose, and black beard; the _tout ensemble_ of his countenance noble
+and majestic. He governs Barbary with discretion and moderation; in
+the distribution of justice, or in rewarding his subjects, he is just
+and impartial; in his private conduct no less pious and exemplary,
+than, in his public capacity, firm and resolute, prompt and
+courageous.  In my next letter I shall give you a brief account of the
+succession of Sovereigns from the time of _Edris_ to the present
+reigning family.
+
+LETTER XII.
+
+
+_Succession of the Sovereigns from their Founder to the present
+Emperor._
+
+
+Fez, ---- 1806.
+
+Edris; the founder of Mahometanism in Barbary, was succeeded by his
+posthumous son, _Edris the Second_, who founded the first monarchy,
+after that of Mahomet, in these regions; and it was called the Kingdom
+of the West. The family of Edris continued to reign for about a
+hundred and fifty years; but was disturbed, during the tenth century,
+by several intestine divisions, excited by a crowd of usurpers, which
+terminated in the total extinction of the Edrissites.
+
+The tribe of Mequinici seized on several provinces, and founded, on
+the ruins of the ancient, the present city of Mequinez.
+
+_Abu-Tessifin_, a Maraboot, or Monk, taking advantage of the divisions
+which convulsed these countries, and above all of the credulity of
+this fickle people, sent several of his disciples to preach and excite
+the multitude to revolt, under the pretext of recovering their
+liberties. This great impostor was the chief of the tribe of
+_Lamthunes_, surnamed _Morabethoon_, on account of the extreme rigour
+with which they observed the forms of the new religion.
+
+This tribe resided between Mount Atlas and the Desert. The Moors being
+weary of their Arabian rulers, flocked in crowds to the standard of
+Tessefin, who soon found himself at the head of a large army, by means
+of which he conquered, many provinces, and established himself
+Sovereign of Mauritania.
+
+He was succeeded by his son _Joseph-Ben-Tessefin_, who in 1086
+finished the city of Morakesh, or Morocco, which his father had begun,
+and there fixed his seat of government.  In 1097 he seized on the
+kingdom of Fez, and united it to that of Morocco: he also joined his
+forces to those of the Mahometans in Spain, and conquered the city of
+Seville, subdued all Andalusia, Grenada, and Murcia, penetrated as far
+as Cordova, and defeated the army of Alphonso VI. of Spain.  After
+which he returned, loaded with spoils, to Morocco, where he died. He
+was succeeded by his son _Aly_, who likewise passed over into Spain,
+but was defeated and slain by Alphonso at the battle of Moriella.
+
+His son _Brahem_, an indolent prince, and much addicted to pleasure,
+was proclaimed King of Morocco. His profligacy favoured the ambitious
+projects of a Mahometan preacher, named _Mahomet Abdallah_. This
+impostor assumed the name of _Mahedi, Commander of the Faithful_, and
+drew a host of people to his standard. In the course of his mission,
+he met another preacher, at the head of a multitude of followers, who
+also styled himself _Mahedi_, or _the Prophet_ expected at the end of
+ages.
+
+These two adventurers, consulting their mutual interest, coalesced,
+and having completely succeeded in seducing the people, by projects of
+reformation, _Abdallah_ was proclaimed King of Morocco, and
+_Abdul-Momen_, the other imposter, General of the Faithful. This
+haying effected the destruction of Brahem, he contrived to dispatch
+his colleague so privately as to avoid the imputation of being
+accessary to his death, and succeeded him in the sovereignty.  He
+demolished all the palaces and mosques of the Kings in Morocco, and
+laid the greater part of that city in ruins, it having shut its gates
+against him when, he presented himself before it; and he destroyed the
+young son of Brahem with his own hands. He afterwards, however,
+rebuilt Morocco, and died in 1155, in possession of the sovereign
+power.
+
+He was succeeded by his son Joseph, who passed over into Spain, and
+engaging with the armies of the Kings of Portugal and Leon, he was
+killed by a fall from his horse. His son _Abu-Jacob_, surnamed
+_Almonsor_ the Invincible, assumed the government, suppressed the
+divisions that distracted the country, and, rendered himself so
+powerful and formidable, that the Mahometan Kings in Spain elected him
+as their supreme ruler. After performing numberless gallant exploits,
+he disappeared on a sudden, as some assert, to perform the pilgrimage
+to Mecca; but it is most probable, he was secretly murdered and buried
+by the descendants of Abdallah. His son ascended the throne, but died
+in a very short time of grief, in consequence of his losses in Spain.
+He was the last King of this family.
+
+_Abdallah_, the Governor of Fez, of the tribe of Benimecius, usurped
+the crown of his master. Of his successors, the only prince who took
+part in the Mahometan wars in Spain was _Abul Hassen_, who conquered
+Gibraltar, and built the fort which still retains the name of the
+_Moorish Castle_. He was dethroned and assassinated by his son, _Abul
+Hassen_, a ferocious and ambitious tyrant, who left a son, named
+_Abu-Said_, of a very depraved character, in whose reign Ceuta, after
+a long siege, was taken by Don John, King of Portugal.
+
+These usurpers were completely extirpated by the house of Merini,
+which family in its turn was overcome by _Muley Mahomet_, a Xeriffe of
+the same tribe, who seized the reins of government. His successors did
+not long enjoy the fruit of their usurpation, but were most dreadfully
+disturbed by a series of revolutions and murders, fomented and
+perpetrated by the mountaineers, a resolute, ferocious, and restless
+people, who, after raising the various parts of the country in arms
+one against the other, and subjecting them to all the calamities of
+civil war, cruelly butchered _Muley Achmet_, the last of the sons of
+_Muley Sidan_ and proclaimed their chief, _Crom-el-Hadgy_, a
+bloodthirsty ruffian, of low birth, and eminent in cruelties, in his
+stead. This tyrant, to secure his new acquisition, inhumanly massacred
+all the male descendants of the Xeriffes. He soon became the object of
+universal detestation, and was poignarded by his Sultana on the day of
+marriage. She was of the family of the Xeriffes, and consented to
+marry him, only that she might have a better opportunity of
+sacrificing him to her revenge, for the murder of her family.
+
+After the tragical end of the descendants of the Xeriffes, these
+countries, but more especially the province of Tafilet, experienced
+all the horrors of famine and pestilence, for several years. The
+people of Tafilet considered it as a judgment from their Prophet for
+their injustice; and, to appease him, they made a pilgrimage to Mecca,
+and easily prevailed on a Xeriffe, a descendant of Mahomet, named
+_Muley Aly_, who resided in a town near Medina, to accompany them back
+to this country. In the mean time, the seasons having become more
+genial, the harvests were so abundant, that this credulous and
+superstitious people attributed the change entirely to the arrival of
+the pious Xeriffe. He was unanimously proclaimed King of Tafilet, by
+the name of _Muley Xeriffe_; and as such acknowledged by the other
+provinces, with the exception of Morocco and its environs, which were
+then in the possession of _Crom-el-Hadgy_, who having ended his career
+in the manner described, was soon followed by his son; and the ancient
+families who had ruled the empire being completely extinct, the new
+King of Tafilet, from his birth, religion, and the public election,
+was confirmed the legitimate Sovereign of the whole county.
+
+Muley Xeriffe was the founder of the dynasty of _Fileli_, from which
+the present reigning family is descended. This country, totally
+exhausted by divisions and civil wars, acquired the enjoyments of
+peace and plenty, during the reign of this prince, who resided at
+Tafilet, and caused the Governors, who were entrusted with provinces,
+to rule with equity.  He made it his whole study to render this fickle
+and turbulent people happy; the latter part of his reign was perfectly
+undisturbed, and his death was universally and justly lamented.  He
+was succeeded by his eldest son, who was proclaimed, without the
+disturbances usual on those occasions, by the name of _Muley Mahomet_.
+
+This prince, equally just and pious with his father, reigned for some
+time very peaceably; and from his exemplary conduct would have
+continued to do so to his death, to the increasing prosperity of his
+subjects, but for his brother, _Muley Arshid_, an ambitious prince,
+who, endowed with an intelligent mind, equal to the vast project he
+had in contemplation, raised a rebellion, with a view to seize on the
+sovereign power. At the head of a numerous party, in a pitched battle,
+he was however defeated, and taken prisoner, by his brother _Muley
+Mahomet_. But he recovered his liberty, by the aid of a negro slave,
+whom he rewarded by striking off his head at the very instant he had
+enabled the monster to recover his liberty.
+
+After wandering about for some time, stirring up the minds of the
+people to revolt, Muley Arshid fled to the mountains of Rif, where he
+offered his services to the Sovereign of those districts, who,
+unfortunately discovering the abilities of the stranger, confided to
+him the administration of his territories, when, after having by
+stratagem and prodigality gained the troops and the people to his
+interests, he dethroned and inhumanly butchered his royal
+benefactor. He then defeated his brother _Mahomet_, and closely
+besieged him in Tafilet, whence that good prince died of grief. To
+enumerate the bloody exploits of this prince would extend my letter to
+a volume; suffice it therefore to say, that his reign was short, and
+the remembrance of it never to be effaced. He died in 1672 of a
+fractured skull, in consequence of a fall from his horse.
+
+He was succeeded by his brother _Muley Ishmael_, who distinguished
+himself by some brave actions; and his reign would have formed a grand
+epoch in the history of this country, had he not stained it by a
+succession of tyranny and cruelties, too shocking to dwell upon. He
+died in 1727 at the advanced age of eighty-one, leaving behind him a
+numerous offspring. This prince, in order to ensure his despotic and
+arbitrary power, contrived to form a regular army of foreign soldiers,
+which he effected, partly from the negro families, then settled in
+Barbary, but principally from a vast number of blacks which he
+obtained from the coast of Guinea.
+
+_Muley-Achmet-Daiby_, one of the numerous sons of Ishmael, ascended
+the throne of Morocco, and, after reigning two years, died of a
+dropsy. His successor, _Muley Abdallah_, by far surpassed all his
+predecessors in point of vices and cruelty. His conduct was so
+flagrant, that he was deposed no less than six times, but as often
+re-elected. Amidst civil wars, divisions, and devastations, the plague
+again made its appearance, and committed the same dreadful ravages as
+in the reign of _Ishmael_. Being reinstated for the sixth time,
+_Abdallah_ took advantage of the troubles occasioned by this terrible
+disease, to excite divisions among his negro soldiers, by whose power
+alone he had suffered all his humiliations. Vast numbers of this
+warlike race fell the victims of his treachery, and he succeeded in
+reducing them so low, that they were no longer a subject of dread to
+him.  Having thus freed himself of all cause of restraint, he
+recovered his power, and, if possible, plunged deeper than ever into
+the gulf of iniquity; and each succeeding day was stained with crimes
+of the blackest hue. The only sentiments with which he inspired his
+unhappy people were those of terror and disgust. At length, worn out
+with age, he died at Fez in 1757; and was succeeded by his son _Sidi
+Mahomet_, who had begun to reform several abuses, during the latter
+part of his father's reign, when he had been entrusted with the
+government of Morocco.
+
+This prince, the father of the present Emperor, was endowed with an
+intelligent mind, and possessed nothing of the barbarian. His
+political views, and excellent regulations, soon restored the order of
+things. He directed all his care to the welfare of his people, both at
+home and abroad; he concluded, and renewed, several advantageous
+commercial treaties, with England, France, Spain, Portugal, Sweden,
+Denmark, and Holland, with all of whom he maintained a good
+understanding till 1777; when, gained over by the courts of France and
+Spain, he broke the treaty with England, and refused to supply
+Gibraltar with fresh provisions. He appointed officers of the
+strictest integrity, and of moderate and resolute characters, to the
+government of his provinces; and the whole period of his reign was
+exempt from those horrible cruelties which had almost invariably
+disgraced the sceptres of his predecessors.  He died at an advanced
+age, at _Rabat_, on the 11th of April 1790.
+
+After the old Emperor's death, the states of Barbary became convulsed
+by the civil discords, attended with great effusion of bloody
+occasioned by Sidi Mahomet's numerous sons, who severally aspired to
+the crown. The contest was for a long time doubtful and bloody; but at
+length, Muley Yezid was proclaimed Emperor, by a powerful party.  As
+the whole country was up in arms, he had to combat with many
+difficulties in establishing himself on the throne. He was no sooner
+confirmed in his power, than he exercised it with uncommon cruelty
+towards his captives.  Under the idea of striking terror into the
+minds of his subjects, by the force of example, and deterring them
+from revolting again, he inflicted the most dreadful punishment on
+those who had opposed his authority; some he caused to be hung up by
+the feet, and suffered to perish for want of sustenance; others, to be
+crucified at the gates of the city; and several high priests, and
+officers of state, he deprived of the blessing of sight.
+
+But his cruelty and inhumanity did not rest here. In the above
+proceedings he might possibly urge in palliation a regard to his
+personal safety, and the possession of a crown which he held by so
+precarious a tenure as the caprice of a multitude, who might wrest it
+from him with as little scruple as they had bestowed it, if not awed
+by some terrible example; but where shall we seek an excuse for his
+execrable barbarity to the poor Jews in his dominions, whom he ordered
+to be massacred, without distinction?  The carnage was most horrible;
+and the property of this persecuted people was indiscriminately
+plundered by their rapacious murderers. Six young Jewesses, who
+ventured to intercede for their unhappy fathers and relations, were
+burned alive.  My blood runs cold at the idea of such depravity; and I
+shrink, from the reflection that our own history will furnish us with
+annals, almost or fully as replete with horror as the one I am now
+relating.
+
+It is not all surprising that such unjustifiable cruelty should kindle
+disgust in the minds of those who were not totally divested of the
+feelings of humanity. Several of his provinces rebelled, but he
+successively reduced them to obedience; and in the last battle which
+he fought, before the city of Morocco, and gained, he was severely
+wounded.  The rebel army was surrounded, and defeated with great
+slaughter. _Muley Yezid_ was carried to the castle, and his wound
+dressed; but his treatment was so improper, that, after lingering a
+few days in the most excruciating torture, he died in 1794.
+
+The present Emperor, _Muley Solyman_, was the youngest prince, and
+lived retired in the city of Fez, assiduously occupied in studying the
+Alcoran and the laws of the empire, in order to qualify himself for
+the office of high-priest, which he was intended to fill. From this
+retreat he was called by the priests, the highest in repute as saints,
+in the neighbourhood of Fez, and a small party of the Moorish militia,
+and by them prevailed upon to come forward as a candidate for the
+crown, in opposition to his three brothers, who were waging war with
+each other, at the head of numerous forces.  In the midst of this
+anarchy and confusion, the young prince was proclaimed Emperor at Fez,
+by the name of _Muley Solyman_; and having collected a strong force,
+aided by the counsels of a number of brave and experienced officers,
+he advanced to Mequinez, which he reduced, after two successive
+pitched battles.  This place was defended by one of his brothers, who
+shortly after acknowledged him as Emperor, joined him, and brought
+over to his interests a great number of friends and partisans.  He
+served Solyman faithfully ever after, which enabled him to withstand
+the united forces of his two other brothers. At length, owing to the
+little harmony that prevailed in the armies of his competitors, he
+effected his purpose. Taking advantage of their increasing animosity,
+he advanced towards Morocco, fighting and conquering the whole way. He
+entered the capital in triumph, after a general and decisive battle;
+and he was again proclaimed Emperor.
+
+This brave young prince had now reduced Barbary entirely under his
+sway, with the exception of the kingdom of Tangiers.  Thither the two
+unfortunate princes retired, in order to make a last and desperate
+stand; but after a variety of struggles, to regain some degree of
+ascendancy, one was compelled to solicit the protection of the Dey of
+Algiers, and the other was taken prisoner, and banished to a remote
+province.
+
+From that period, the Emperor has dedicated the whole of his time and
+pursuits to the amelioration of his people's condition, by improving
+his financial resources, and appointing over his provinces, mild and
+humane Governors, whom he strictly superintends, occasionally deposing
+such as have deviated from his orders, and often inflicting upon these
+his representatives the most severe corporal punishments, previous to
+their imprisonment for life.
+
+LETTER XIII.
+
+
+_Responsibility of the Governors--Empire beautiful and
+productive--Humane Efforts of the Emperor--Blind Submission to his
+Will--Great Number of Negroes naturalized--The Moors might be truly
+formidable.--Emperor's Brother--Fez divided into two
+Parts--Magnificent Mosques--Commercial Privileges--Indignities which
+Christians undergo--Singular Supply of Water--The Imperial
+Gardens--Propensity to
+defraud--Factories--Exports--Costume--Character--Manner of
+living--Domestic Vermin._
+
+
+Fez.
+
+Having extended my last letter to an unusual length, I broke off
+rather abruptly; I shall therefore resume the subject in this.
+
+The Governors commanding large districts or provinces in Barbary, are
+answerable for the crimes and misdemeanors committed in their
+governments, if they fail to bring the offenders to public justice;
+consequently they impose very heavy fines on the community, to impel
+them to seize, and deliver to them, the murderer or robber. The sudden
+and frequent changes in the public offices keep the most powerful
+Governors in the empire in continual awe and depression; and the fear
+of being, in an instant, hurled from the height of prosperity to the
+lowest abyss of adversity, usually prevents them from amassing great
+wealth, as it is sure to pass into the Emperor's treasury on their
+disgrace; and the same cause prevents the forming of dangerous
+cabals. Yet some of them contrive, during their short-lived
+administration, to squeeze from their wretched vassals as much money
+as they can, by every fraudful artifice and despotic violence. The
+sufferers murmur, and complain; but the government appears to wink at
+the oppression for a time, and reserves its dreadful vengeance till
+the annual review, on the plains of Fez, where the collected spoils of
+the cruel peculator are seized, and himself deposed, imprisoned, and
+the whole fruit of his rapine transferred to the royal treasury.
+
+This empire is one of the most beautiful and fertile countries,
+perhaps in the world; but the despotism under which it has groaned,
+and the capricious humours of its former rulers, destroyed, and
+prevented the effects of industry; besides, the rapacity of the
+Sheiks, who are the Bashaws of the country, carried off every thing
+that labour could collect.  The present Emperor is endeavouring to
+correct these abuses, and to bring about a reformation, which I am
+sure he will never effect, owing to the great influence of the priests
+and saints in these states. Although this monarch is humane and
+impartial, and possesses nothing of the ferocious character of his
+predecessors, yet seldom a day passes without some executions.
+
+The people regard their Emperor as a god upon earth, and revere him as
+a descendant of their great prophet. All his commands, right or wrong,
+just or unjust, they consider as the decrees of Heaven. A blind
+obedience to the will of their Sovereign, is inculcated in the minds
+of their youth, more as a matter of religion than of state; and the
+Emperor may put as many of his subjects to death as he deems
+expedient, without assigning any other motive for so doing than secret
+inspiration. When at war with any Christian prince, it is considered
+as a war of religion, and the Moors who fall in the field of battle,
+are accounted martyrs.
+
+The number of negroes that have been imported into this country, and
+are now settled in these states, is astonishing. The amount is little
+less than three hundred thousand.  The Emperor's body-guard, which
+consists of eighteen thousand horsemen, is chiefly composed of
+negroes, who enjoy every privilege that despotic power can confer, and
+are ready upon all occasions to enforce the royal mandate.
+
+The great schools for the Moorish gentry are the chanceries of the
+Bashaws, where the young men learn the arts of dissimulation and
+duplicity in the greatest perfection, and become, very, early such
+great adepts in these valuable acquirements, that in my opinion they
+are fully able to cope with Monsieur Talleyrand, and the best
+politicians at the court of St. Cloud.  They are very dexterous also
+in the art of temporizing with an enemy, and deluding him by a
+thousand little expedients. It is therefore fortunate for Europe, that
+the Moors are so indolent a set of people; for the immense power this
+empire might have; were it peopled by an industrious and ambitious
+race of men, would render it the most formidable in the world.
+
+I shall now return to my own affairs, from the period at which they
+were left off in a former letter. The Emperor had requested me to
+report to him, personally, every morning, the state of his favourite
+Sultana; I therefore waited upon him regularly at five o'clock, and
+was extremely happy that I was enabled to make the report more welcome
+each day.  After this visit to His Imperial Majesty, I daily paid my
+devoirs to the blind prince, the only remaining brother of the Emperor
+now in Barbary, and who took no part in the disputes of former times;
+and I then called upon the great officers of state.
+
+Finding the Sultana in such a fair way of recovery, the Emperor
+dismissed his Governors to their respective provinces, and removed his
+court to Mequinez, his favourite summer residence, leaving me here, to
+complete the cure of the Sultana, and to attend several of his
+subjects, who stand high in his favour, in the lower town of Fez. As
+the attendance required by my patients does not occupy the whole of my
+time, I employ my leisure in observing such things as appear most
+worthy of remark.
+
+The town (or rather _towns_ of Fez, this city being divided into two
+distinct parts, the one called Upper, the other Lower Fez) is the
+capital of the kingdom of that name, and is supposed to contain about
+three hundred thousand inhabitants, besides foreigners of their own
+persuasion. There are upwards of five hundred mosques: one of them in
+particular, which was built by Edris the Second, and in which his
+remains were deposited, is magnificent beyond description, and is
+about a mile and a half in circumference. There is another very little
+inferior to this, which was erected by the Arabs of Caiwan, and
+called _Carubin_. The other mosques have been constructed since. To
+most of the mosques are annexed several colleges, religious schools,
+and hospitals for the pilgrims who visit this place, for, in point of
+holiness, it is considered as next to Mecca and Medina.
+
+The lower town of Fez was built by Edris the Second, about the end of
+the eighth century, and is taken notice of by Pliny under the name of
+_Volubilis_. According to that author, and others, this city ranked
+amongst the principal inland towns of Mauritania, and was a Roman
+colony. It is a place of considerable trade; the inhabitants are
+mostly freed men, engaged in commerce, and reputed to be very opulent
+and industrious; they have purchased a charter, by which they ensure a
+kind of independence, and are totally unmolested in their traffic; in
+short, there are great privileges attached to this town, which are not
+to be met with in any other part of Barbary.  The lower town is almost
+entirely surrounded by hills, which are highly cultivated, and abound
+with vineyards, and gardens producing most exquisite fruits.
+
+Upper Fez is situated on one of the highest of the hills which almost
+encircle the lower town, and contains the imperial palace and
+seraglio, several old palaces occupied by the sons of the Emperor, and
+the habitations of the principal officers in the household. Contiguous
+to these, is the inclosed town belonging solely to the Jews, who are
+about thirty thousand in number, having one hundred and fifty
+synagogues. On that part of the wall of the Jewish town which
+overlooks Lower Fez, are placed several heavy pieces of ordnance,
+which, in case of an insurrection in the latter, would very soon
+demolish it: as the lower town is by much the most populous and
+extensive, this precaution may not be unnecessary.  The Jewish town is
+commanded by an Alcaid, who cannot however shield its unfortunate
+inhabitants from oppression and insults.  These people are obliged to
+walk barefooted through the Moorish streets; and they suffer the
+greatest outrages without a murmur, nay, some of them have been
+actually murdered in the act of selling their goods to the Moors.  No
+Christian is allowed to appear publicly in the streets of Fez, without
+a special permission from the Emperor, and a military escort.
+
+These towns are supplied with water in a most singular manner from a
+river, called _Rasalema_, which takes its source in a valley near the
+road to Mequinez. It issues from a rock, about eight or ten feet above
+the ground, in a stream, that, from the form of the valley through
+which it runs, appears a continued waterfall. It is conveyed into the
+Emperor's garden by means of a large wheel, about twenty-five feet in
+diameter, round which, at regular distances, are small buckets, which,
+as the wheel goes round, are alternately filled, and emptied into a
+reservoir at the top of the wall of the garden. From the reservoir the
+water is also conveyed to the upper and lower towns by aqueducts.
+
+On the outside of one of the western gates of Upper Fez are the
+gardens of the Emperor, surrounded by a good stone wall, within which
+are a number of spacious walks, shaded by rows of tall trees, on each
+side, and intersected by parterres and grass-plots, on which are
+elegant pavilions, some in a pyramidical, others in a conical form,
+where the Emperor frequently retires, to take his repose, or to amuse
+himself with his courtiers.  These pavilions are between thirty and
+forty feet in height, covered on the outside with varnished tiles of
+different colours, and contain three and sometimes four neat
+apartments, furnished in the most simple style imaginable, having in
+general nothing more than a carpet, several couches, a few
+arm-chairs, a table, a clock, and a tea-equipage of china. The
+cornices round the walls of these apartments are embellished with
+passages from the Koran, and other Arabic sentences, carved in
+cedar-wood.
+
+The propensity to cheating, so prevalent in all Barbary, is no where
+so notorious as in the lower town of Fez; and the Europeans who trade
+with the Moorish merchants here must employ the same means as
+themselves, or submit to be most flagitiously imposed upon.
+
+I have visited several manufactories of carpets, mats, silk, linen,
+and leather, of which the merchants export great quantities.  I have
+also seen some beautifully embroidered shawls, scarfs, and
+sword-knots, of the manufacture of this country. Their exports besides
+are, elephants' teeth, ostrich feathers, copper, tin, wool, hides,
+honey, wax, dates, raisins, olives, almonds, gum-arabic, and
+sandrach. They carry on a considerable trade, by caravans, to Mecca
+and Medina, the inland regions of Africa, and to the farthermost parts
+of the coast of Guinea; from which last place they bring gold-dust,
+and a prodigious number of negroes, some of whom are destined to serve
+in the Emperor's armies; the rest are slaves in the Moorish houses and
+fields.
+
+The dress of the Moors is composed of a linen shirt, over which they
+fasten a cloth or silk vestment with a sash, loose trowsers reaching
+to the knee, a white serge cloak, or capote, and yellow slippers:
+their arms and legs are quite bare. The principal people are
+distinguished by the fineness of their turbans, their linen shirts,
+and cloth or silk garments, which are richly embroidered with gold;
+when they go abroad, they cover this dress with an alhaik, differing
+in quality according to the circumstances of the wearer; and which
+they fold round them like a large blanket. They never move their
+turbans, but pull off their slippers, when they attend religious
+duties, or their Sovereign, or visit their relatives, friends,
+priests, or civil and military officers.
+
+The Moorish gentry are clean in their persons, in their manners
+tolerably genteel and complaisant, far from being loquacious, though
+not prone to reflection. They possess an unbounded degree of duplicity
+and flattery; are perfectly strangers to the notions of truth and
+honour, promising a thing one day which they utterly deny the
+next. They are less irascible than many other nations; but when
+grossly injured, seek revenge in assassination.  They are more
+vindictive than brave, more superstitious than devout, firmly attached
+to their ancient customs, and wholly averse to every kind of
+innovation.
+
+The Moors, in general, are extremely fond of fruit and vegetables,
+which contribute very much to their contentment. The peasants eat meat
+only on certain great days.  They are excessively dirty in their
+cooking, and the style of their dishes is not at all adapted to the
+taste of an Englishman. Their soups are made most intolerably hot with
+spices; and their favourite dish is _cous-ca-sou_, which appears to me
+to be prepared in the following manner: The meat and vegetables are
+laid alternately in a large bowl, and seasoned; then the whole is
+covered with fine wheaten flour, made into small grains, very like the
+Italian pastes. It is raised into the form of a pyramid, and I should
+imagine stewed, or rather steamed, as the outside remains perfectly
+white, which it would not were it baked. The whole of the inside, when
+brought to table, is mingled almost into one mass; the meat separating
+from the bones, without the smallest difficulty: it does not contain
+any gravy, and the Moors eat it by handsfull.
+
+I generally live upon mutton and veal, both of which are very good:
+the bread and butter are excellent, but the latter will not keep more
+than twenty-four hours without becoming rancid. My greatest annoyance
+here is the infinite number of bugs and fleas, which infest me by day
+and night most intolerably.
+
+LETTER XIV.
+
+
+_Fez--Debility of the Moors--Mosques--Antiquities, Roman,
+Carthaginian, and Saracen--Storks held in great Veneration--Baths--
+Bazars--Inhabitants--Residence--Menagerie--Marvellous Preservation of
+a Jew--Lions--Tigers--Leopards--Hyenas._
+
+
+_Fez_, ----.
+
+Considering the mildness of the climate, the uncommon fertility of the
+soil, the number of mineral waters, the fragrancy and salubrity of the
+air, one would imagine that the frame and constitution of a Moor
+cannot but be beautiful, strong, and healthy; yet, though the most
+handsome people of both sexes are to be met with in this great city,
+the number of miserable objects, the wretched victims of excessive
+early passions, is in a much larger proportion: it is shocking beyond
+description to meet them in every corner of the streets. I have
+visited a great many of these poor creatures, and found them in such a
+state, that decency obliges me to draw a veil over it.
+
+The mosques of this town, which I have before mentioned as very
+numerous, are square buildings, and generally of stone; before the
+principal gate there is a court paved with white marble, with piazzas
+round, the roofs of which are supported by marble columns.  In niches
+within these piazzas, the Moors perform their ablutions before they
+enter the mosques. Attached to each mosque is a tower, with three
+small open galleries, one above another, whence the people are called
+to prayer, not by a bell, but by an officer appointed for that
+duty. These towers, as well as the mosques, are covered with lead, and
+adorned with gilding, and tiles of variegated colours. No woman is
+allowed to enter the Moorish places of worship.
+
+Several of the aqueducts, which were constructed by the Carthaginians
+and Romans, are still to be seen; and the ruins of amphitheatres, and
+other public buildings, are found in the town and neighbourhood of
+Fez: likewise many Saracen monuments of the most stupendous
+magnificence, which were erected under the Caliphs of Bagdad. The
+mosques and ruins are frequented by a great number of storks, which
+are very tame, and are regarded by the Moors as a kind of inferior
+saints.
+
+The baths here are wonderfully well constructed for the purpose. Some
+of them are square buildings, but the greater part are circular, paved
+with black or white polished marble, and containing three rooms: the
+first for undressing and dressing, the second for the water, and in
+the third is the bath.  Their manner of bathing is very curious: the
+attendant rubs the person with great force, then pulls and stretches
+the limbs, as if he meant to dislocate every joint. This exercise to
+these indolent people is very conducive to health.
+
+The bazars in which the tradesmen have their shops, are very
+extensive. These shops are filled with all kinds of merchandise. In
+the centre of the town is a rectangular building, with colonnades,
+where the principal merchants attend daily to transact business.
+
+The inhabitants of Fez are of a large muscular stature, fair
+complexion, with black beards and eyes; extremely amorous and jealous
+of their women, whom they keep strictly guarded. Their houses consist
+of four wings, forming a court in the centre, round which is an
+arcade, or piazza, with one spacious apartment on each side. The court
+is paved with square pieces of marble, and has a basin of the same in
+the centre, with a fountain. They keep their houses remarkably clean
+and neat; but all the streets of this immense town are narrow, very
+badly paved with large irregular stones, and most shockingly
+dirty. The tops of their houses, like those of Tetuan, and other towns
+in Barbary, are flat, for the purpose of recreation.
+
+Among the remnants of several amphitheatres, there is one very nearly
+entire, which is kept in constant repair at the expense of the
+Emperor, and appropriated as a menagerie for lions, tigers, and
+leopards. As I was contemplating it the other day, I felt at a loss to
+account for this being kept in repair, while the others were suffered
+to moulder into dust, unheeded, excepting a very few, and those but
+partially prevented from sharing the general wreck. I had stood some
+time, thus employed, when I was suddenly interrupted in my
+meditations, by the sound of voices close behind me; on turning I
+perceived two Jews, one of whom I knew very well, from having given
+advice to some part of his family. I immediately inquired how it
+happened that the building before us was so carefully preserved from
+going to ruin, as happened to most of the others. He informed me, that
+it was a kind of menagerie for wild beasts. "It was the same in the
+time of the late Emperor," continued he; "and a very curious incident
+befell one of my brethren in that place." As the narrative was not
+merely very curious, but really wonderful, I cannot forbear sending
+you the substance of it; as to give it you in the very circuitous way
+it came to me, would be rather a tax upon your patience, particularly,
+as you may not be so destitute of resources of amusement, as, I
+confess, I was at that moment.
+
+It appears, that Muley Yezid, the late Emperor, had a great and
+invincible antipathy to the Jews (indeed it was but too evident in the
+horrible transaction I mentioned in a former letter). An unfortunate
+Israelite, having incurred the displeasure of that prince, was
+condemned to be devoured by a ferocious lion, which had been purposely
+left without food for twenty-four hours: when the animal was raging
+with hunger, the poor Jew had a rope fastened round his waist, and in
+the presence of a great concourse of people was let down into the den;
+his supplications for mercy, and screams of terror, availing him
+nothing. The man gave himself up for lost, expecting every moment to
+be torn in pieces by the almost famished beast, who was roaring most
+hideously; he threw himself on the ground in an agony of mind, much
+better conceived than described. While in this attitude, the animal
+approached him, ceased roaring, smelt him two or three times, then
+walked majestically round him, and gave him now and then a gentle
+whisk with his tail, which seemed to signify that he might rise, as he
+would not hurt him; finding the man still continue motionless with
+fear, he retreated a few paces, and laid himself down like a
+dog. After a short time had elapsed, the Jew, recovering from his
+insensibility, and perceiving himself unmolested, ventured to raise
+himself up, and observing the noble animal couched, and no symptom of
+rage or anger in his countenance, he felt animated with confidence. In
+short, they became quite friendly, the lion suffering himself to be
+caressed by the Jew with the utmost tameness. It ended with the man
+being drawn up again unhurt, to the great astonishment of the
+spectators. A heifer was afterwards let down, and instantly devoured.
+You may be sure this story was too great a triumph on the part of the
+Israelites, to pass without a number of annotations and reflections
+from the narrator, all tending to prove the victory of their nation
+over the heathens.  For my part, I could not help thinking that there
+was too much of the miraculous in it. However, I have often heard it
+asserted that the lion will never touch a man who is either dead, or
+counterfeits death; indeed here they tell me, that, unless pressed by
+hunger or rage, it never molests a man; and they assure me even that
+upon no account will these animals injure a woman, but, on the
+contrary, will protect her, when they meet her at a
+watering-place. This country abounds with lions, tigers, leopards, and
+hyenas, which sometimes make nocturnal visits to the villages, and
+spread desolation among the sheep and cattle.
+
+LETTER XV.
+
+_Sudden Departure from Fez--Arrive at Mequinez--Attend the
+Emperor--Melancholy Catastrophe--Expedition against wild
+Beasts--Extensive Palaces--Seraglio--Visit a Haram--Founders of the
+City--A fortified Town--Inhabitants--Jewish Town--Rich Attire of the
+higher Orders--Numerous Market-places--Furniture--Saints'
+Houses--Imperial Field Sports--Pack of Greyhounds--Abundance of Game._
+
+
+Mequinez.
+
+No doubt, my dear D----, you will be very much surprised to observe my
+letter dated from this place. I assure you I had not the most distant
+idea, when I wrote last, of removing so suddenly from Fez. On the
+evening of the same day that I dispatched my letter to you, as I was
+preparing for rest, an express arrived from the Emperor, begging me to
+repair hither without delay. Concluding that nothing less than life or
+death depended on my speedy arrival, I accordingly renounced the
+pleasures of the drowsy god for a very uneasy seat on the back of a
+mule, and at midnight set off for this place, leaving my baggage and
+attendants to follow in the morning.  I rode very fast all night, and
+arrived here about nine o'clock the next day. When I dismounted, I was
+so extremely stiff, that it was with the utmost difficulty I could
+stand; I was most dreadfully fatigued, and stood in very great need of
+repose; but waving all selfish considerations, I thought only of being
+serviceable, and therefore lost no time in waiting on the Emperor. He
+received me in the kindest and most flattering manner, and expressed
+great pleasure at seeing me; but I found my patient's case not so very
+urgent as I had imagined; a few hours delay would not have endangered
+the life of any human being, and it would have saved _one_, some
+aching bones. However, after dispatching the case in point as
+expeditiously as possible, I soon made amends for my deprivation, by
+indulging in a little longer repose than usual, and on awaking I felt
+myself quite refreshed, and rather pleased than otherwise at finding
+myself thus suddenly at Mequinez; for having before passed the road
+more leisurely, and observed every thing worthy of remark, I did not
+so much regret that my journey had been performed during the night.
+
+I have been four days here, and yesterday I was called upon to attend
+the captain of a band of huntsmen, who were that morning returned from
+an expedition, in which they lost three of their companions, and only
+succeeded in saving their chief, and bringing him to this place, by
+little short of a miracle.  He has been lacerated in a most dreadful
+manner; his head is nearly scalped, and part of the integuments of his
+arms and back inverted.  His condition is certainly dangerous; but, as
+he is a young and healthy subject, I do not despair of effecting his
+recovery.
+
+I have learned the following particulars of this melancholy
+catastrophe.  About fifty resolute young men marched hence, all armed
+and well stocked with ammunition and provisions, and accompanied by a
+mountaineer, who acted as guide. Their primary object was to destroy
+six young lions, that had committed terrible devastation in one of
+their villages; compelled the inhabitants to flee precipitately; and
+themselves remained sole masters of the _citadel_. After a march of
+three days, they arrived at the scene of action, and succeeded in
+destroying those lions; but hearing that there were more in the
+neighbourhood, they prepared to encounter them also. By order of this
+young man, who was chief of the company, they separated in five
+divisions, and repaired to different posts on the borders of the
+forest, to wait the arrival of the lions. They had not remained long,
+ere the terrific roar of these animals commenced, the sound approached
+nearer and nearer to their place of concealment, and one of the lions
+passed close to a party, and received the fire of their pieces; the
+animal darted upon them in return, before they could charge again, and
+three unfortunate men fell victims to his rage.  The creature finding
+he had more enemies to contend with, and his wounds beginning to
+smart, retreated to a cover, where he sat licking them, and meditating
+another attack.  He was on the point of springing on the captain, who
+had approached nearer to him than the rest, when the young man
+discharged his musket, the contents of which entered, and dislocated,
+the lower jaw of the enraged animal.  The instant the youth had fired,
+he retreated with the utmost precipitation towards his companions, but
+his foot unfortunately slipping, he fell prostrate between two stones:
+in which position the lion assailed him; and being unable to tear him
+in pieces with his teeth, in consequence of the wound in his jaw, he
+made use of his tremendous paws, and would undoubtedly have destroyed
+him, but for the timely assistance of his comrades.  The animal was so
+intent on the destruction of his enemy, that he received a close fire
+from two muskets, the muzzles of which nearly touched him.  He no
+sooner found himself mortally wounded, than, raising the almost
+lifeless man in both paws, he dashed him on the ground, and fell dead
+by his side.
+
+The man received a very severe contusion on his bead, which deprived
+him of sense for some time, and is what I dread the most in his
+case. His wounds were dressed by his companions in the best manner
+they could, and he was brought hither. The Emperor has very liberally
+rewarded him and his party, and made a handsome provision for the
+widows and children of those poor fellows who fell in the
+expedition. I sincerely hope this man may recover to enjoy the
+munificence of his Sovereign.
+
+I have most excellent quarters here, contiguous to one of the palaces,
+and am allowed to walk or ride in the Imperial gardens, which are very
+extensive. The Emperor's palaces here, are much upon the same plan,
+with those at Fez, but larger. One of them is about three miles in
+circumference. All the apartments are on the ground floor, and are
+large long rooms, about twenty feet in height, receiving air from two
+folding doors which open into a square court, with a portico round,
+embellished with colonnades.  The walls of the rooms are faced with
+glazed tiles, and the floors paved with the same, which gives an air
+of coolness and neatness, so desirable in this warm climate.
+
+The seraglio of the Emperor, and indeed the harams of men of less
+rank, are sacred.  No strangers are admitted, and it is profanation in
+a man to enter; but as a _tweeb_, I am privileged, and enjoy a
+liberty, never granted before.  The day after my arrival, His
+Excellency the _Sheik_ called upon me, and requested me to go home
+with him.  He informed me that he had been assured, in the most
+positive manner, by all the doctors, and female attendants, that his
+wife had a dead child in her, and that nothing less than a miracle of
+their great Prophet could save her.  The poor man was very much
+agitated while giving me this account. I find she is his favourite
+wife, and no wonder, for she is a very lovely woman.  Upon
+examination, I found that what they imagined to be a dead child, is a
+protuberant hardness in the region of the liver, extending nearly all
+over the abdomen.  The tumefaction was considered as a case of
+pregnancy; and she having considerably passed her time, the child was
+thought to be dead within her. I have begun a course of medicine,
+which I flatter myself will entirely eradicate the disorder.
+
+My stay was so very short, when I was here before, that I could give
+you no account of the town, &c.  The city of Mequinez is in the
+kingdom of Fez, and thirty miles from the capital of that name.  The
+dynasty of _Mequinez_ were the founders of this town, which they
+erected upon the ruins of the old one.  Stephanus takes notice of it,
+by the name of _Gilda_, and says, that it was a place of great note.
+Marmol also asserts, that the present Mequinez answers in every
+respect to the ancient _Gilda_.  It was considerably enlarged by Muley
+Ishmael, who (as well as several other Moorish princes, successively)
+defended himself in this place, against the attacks of the
+mountaineers.  Several lines of circumvallation and intrenchments are
+still to be seen.
+
+It is surrounded with walls, and fortified by two bastions; but has no
+artillery. It contains about one hundred thousand inhabitants;
+twenty-five thousand of whom are Jews, who have a town of their own,
+irregularly fortified, and guarded by a strong force, under the
+direction of an Alcaid, who is styled the Governor of the Jews.
+
+There is not the smallest difference, in the construction of these
+houses, from those of Fez; though the inhabitants differ very
+materially.  The men are of a short, thick, muscular make, and swarthy
+complexion, with long black beards and black eyes. The women are
+excessively handsome, and remarkably fair; nor are they devoid of
+neatness and elegance in their dress. They improve the beauty of their
+eyes with paint.
+
+The Moorish inhabitants of this city are all militia-men, entirely at
+the disposal of the Emperor. They are excellent horsemen, expert at
+the sword and lance; and with fire-arms most admirable marksmen. They
+are generally considered barbarous and ferocious.
+
+The people of distinction go about richly attired, having much gold
+and silver on their clothes. They take great pains in cleaning their
+teeth, combing their long beards, and keeping their nails pared
+extremely close.
+
+The streets of this town are not paved; and the soil being clay, they
+must be very disagreeable in winter; for, after a heavy shower of
+rain, they are almost impassable from the accumulation of mud in every
+quarter. The market-places, with which this place abounds, are long,
+narrow, arched or covered streets, with small shops on each side,
+superintended by a Cadi, and an officer under him, for the purpose of
+collecting the duties on the sale of goods, &c. The chief furniture of
+the houses consists of beautiful carpets, cushions, and mattresses,
+upon which they sit and lie.
+
+In and about the neighbourhood of this place are several saints'
+houses, near which no Christian, nor Jew, is allowed to pass. The most
+remarkable is the _hospitium_ of Sidi-el-Marti.
+
+The Emperor's favourite diversions, while here, are shooting and
+hunting, in both of which I am told he excels. He keeps a large pack
+of greyhounds, as fine as any I have seen in England. His
+pleasure-grounds, and park, in the vicinity of this town, abound in
+all kinds of game, hares, rabbits, and deer, and in wild boars and
+foxes.
+
+LETTER XVI.
+
+_Courtship_--_Marriage_--_Funerals_--_Sabbath_.
+
+
+Mequinez.
+
+I shall now give you an account of the manner in which the marriages
+are invariably negotiated and conducted in this country. A female, the
+confidential friend of the suitor, is dispatched to observe and report
+the beauty and accomplishments of the young lady; and when those are
+found to be perfectly adapted to the gentleman's taste, she is further
+delegated to sound his eulogium, and by every means, such as
+presenting her with valuable jewels, &c. to ingratiate him in the good
+opinion of the fair one. When this curious courtship ends, by terms
+being agreed upon, the destined bridegroom pays down a sum of money to
+the bride, a license is taken out from the Cadi, and the parties are
+married. I send you a description of a marriage-ceremony, at which I
+was present the other day.
+
+The bridegroom (who is one of the officers of the household) came out
+of his house, attended by a vast number of his friends, and mounted
+one of the best horses belonging to the Emperor, most curiously and
+richly caparisoned.  He carried his sword unsheathed, and was preceded
+by a splendid standard, and a band of music; he was followed by a kind
+of palanquin, supported on the shoulders of four stout black slaves, a
+detachment of cavalry firing off their pieces every minute, and a
+procession of relatives and friends, the whole moving with great mirth
+and jollity,
+
+Before they reached the house of the bride, the cavalcade halted, and
+the bridegroom dismounted, assisted by his negro slaves, and knocked
+loudly at the door three times. The lady was brought out in a covered
+chair, attended by four women, completely muffled up.  The whole party
+of the bridegroom turned their backs, and she was smuggled into the
+palanquin: they then returned in the same style to the house of her
+lord, where, before she was allowed to enter, he placed himself at the
+entrance, and extending his right arm across the door-way, she passed
+under, as an indication of her voluntary and unconditional submission
+to his will and pleasure.
+
+After this ceremony, the bridegroom was obliged to retire to the house
+of his nearest relation, where he continued three days and nights,
+feasting, and receiving presents from all his male friends, while the
+bride was paid the same compliments by her female acquaintance.  At
+the expiration of the appointed time, the gentleman returned to his
+own house.
+
+The Moors are not allowed by their law more than four wives, but they
+may have as many concubines as they can maintain; accordingly, the
+wealthy Moors, besides their wives, keep a kind of seraglio of women
+of all colours.
+
+From their marriages, I am insensibly led to the subject of the burial
+of their dead. Not that any idea strikes me of an analogy between the
+situations of a married person, and one consigned to the "_narrow
+house_," as Ossian poetically styles the grave; but from a certain
+succession of thought, for which one is at a loss to account. In the
+burial of their dead, they are decent and pious, without pomp or
+show. The corpse is attended by the relations and friends, chanting
+passages from the Koran, to the mosque, where it is washed, and it is
+afterwards interred in a place at some distance from the town, the
+Iman, or priest, pronouncing an oration, containing the eulogy of the
+deceased. The male relations express their regard by alms and prayers,
+the women by ornamenting the tomb with flowers and green leaves. Their
+term of mourning is the same as ours, twelve months, during which
+period the widows divest themselves of every ornament, and appear
+habited in the coarsest attire.  Their burial-grounds are inclosed by
+cypress and other dark lofty trees, the lower parts of which are
+interwoven with odoriferous shrubs and creeping plants, forming an
+almost impenetrable hedge. Some of their tombs are very curious,
+though they exhibit specimens of the rudest architecture. There are
+also several saints' houses in their burying-places, which render
+them doubly sacred; and no Christian or Jew is suffered to enter, on
+pain of death.
+
+Friday being their Sabbath, the day is kept perfectly holy; all the
+Moors are employed in prayer, reading the Koran, or visiting the tombs
+of their departed friends.
+
+Curiosity prompted me to go and see an assemblage of fanatics, at a
+celebrated saint's house, in the neighbourhood of this town.  They
+were to perform many wonderful things, such as tearing a live sheep in
+pieces, and devouring the flesh, fighting with wild beasts, and
+several other barbarous exhibitions. These people, called in Barbary
+_Free Masons_, are nothing more than a set of canting, roaring
+companions, surcharged with wine and other liquors, and assembled in
+this holy place, for the sole purpose of giving free vent to their
+brutal passions. This society is peculiar to itself, having no
+connexion with our ancient or modern Free Masons. I have however
+obtained a free access to their saints' houses and secret meetings,
+with permission to go any where unmolested; but I always take the
+precaution to go well armed, and escorted by the Emperor's guards, as
+nothing can exceed the barbarous acts of this fanatic set of people.
+
+I am extremely happy to say, that my most sanguine expectations with
+regard to the poor man, whose accident I mentioned in my last, are
+realized; every unfavourable symptom has vanished, and I can safely
+rely on his perfect recovery. The complaint of my female patient has
+also given way to a proper course of medicine, and the Governor is one
+of the happiest of men. When I announced the pleasing intelligence of
+her disease being removed, he embraced me with such ecstacy that I
+almost dreaded suffocation; in short, he has spared nothing that can
+evince his gratitude and satisfaction, for what he terms the
+inestimable benefit I have conferred upon him.
+
+The country round this city is inexpressibly rich and beautiful, being
+laid put for several miles in gardens, abounding in flowers and
+fruit-trees; among the latter the vine sands pre-eminent, yielding
+most delicious grapes.  The air here, as in the other parts of
+Barbary, is very pure and salubrious.
+
+LETTER XVII.
+
+_Depart for Morocco--Roads dreadfully infested, by Robbers--A Tribe of
+aboriginal Freebooters--Description of Morocco--Filth of the common
+People--Tobacco disallowed--Justice of the Emperor_.
+
+
+Mequinez
+
+Since I wrote last, I have taken a trip to Morocco and back again. As
+I had a great deal of leisure time, and every thing here having lost
+the attraction of novelty, I determined to go further up the interior
+of the country; and accordingly applied to the Emperor for permission
+to visit Morocco, which he granted, but with the injunction that I
+should return as quickly as possible.
+
+I set off, accompanied by my usual guard, which I assure you I never
+found so necessary as on this journey; for the rapacious spirit of the
+peasantry exposed us continually to the danger of being plundered, we
+were therefore obliged to keep watch alternately, to prevent our
+property, perhaps our lives, becoming a prey to these wretches. The
+neighbourhood of Morocco is dreadfully infested by robbers and
+assassins.
+
+The inhabitants of the empire of Morocco, that are not in a military
+capacity, or otherwise immediately in the service of the Emperor, are
+miserably poor; and the natural indolence of their disposition
+preventing them from making any laudable exertions towards gaining a
+livelihood, they have recourse to every means of fraud and
+violence. It is astonishing how frequently assassinations and
+robberies are committed in this empire, notwithstanding the ruffians,
+when detected, are punished in the most exemplary manner, by the right
+hand and left foot being cut off, and the head afterwards being
+severed from the body.  The relations of the murderer are all fined
+very heavily, and the judgment often extends to the whole village,
+near which the crime had been perpetrated; yet seldom a day passes but
+some daring robbery is committed, accompanied by the most wanton and
+savage cruelty; the unhappy victim of the plunderer being frequently
+left in the public roads in a most shocking state of mutilation.
+
+Another ostensible cause of the dereliction of the peasantry from the
+laws of humanity, may be the extreme oppression under which they
+groan; as, on account of their former propensity to rebellion, they
+are now ruled with a rod of iron, which in all probability has
+rendered them callous, and deaf to the voice of nature. But,
+independently of these occasional depredations, there is a band of
+vagrants, who are actuated by no other motives, than what their own
+black hearts suggest.  They inhabit caves in the sides of enormous
+rocky precipices, and go entirely naked: their principal food is the
+flesh of wild beasts. This tribe of freebooters appears to be quite a
+distinct set of people; they seem to have an invincible aversion to
+the Mahometan religion, and worship the _sun_ and _fire_; they speak a
+different language from the rest of the inhabitants, a mixture of
+African and the _old_ Arabic; all which circumstances favour their own
+report of themselves, which is, that they are the genuine descendants
+of the original inhabitants. They look down upon the more civilized
+Moors with contempt, and consider them as the real usurpers of their
+country, and the plunderers of their property.  They subsist chiefly
+by rapine, and frequently throw a whole village into consternation by
+their nocturnal visits; yet their cunning and dexterity are so great,
+that they almost constantly elude the vigilance of justice: indeed,
+they are never forced from their places of retreat (which are
+inaccessible to all but themselves), but when taken, it is either in
+the act of robbing, or when they venture to the markets or fairs; and
+then the capture is not effected without a strong body of the
+military.
+
+I was much disappointed on my arrival at Morocco with the appearance
+of the place; for, instead of finding it, as I expected, superior to
+Fez and Mequinez, I found it a large ruinous town, almost without
+inhabitants.  It contains, indeed, a great many mosques, caravanseras,
+public baths, marketplaces or squares, and palaces of the Xeriffes,
+but all in almost deplorable state of ruin. Not many years since, this
+city was the Imperial residence, and contained six hundred and fifty
+thousand inhabitants; but the late civil wars, and the plague, which
+raged with such violence, in the beginning of the present Emperor's
+reign, nearly depopulated it. In consequence of the latter melancholy
+event, the court was removed to Fez and Mequinez.  To this account we
+may place the present desolate appearance of Morocco. The Imperial
+palace is, however, kept in repair, as the Emperor goes to Morocco
+annually to spend the fast-days, which are during the months of
+October and November; scarcely one fourth of the other palaces and
+houses are inhabited; but though this city now exhibits evident
+symptoms of rapid decay, we may still form a just idea of its former
+grandeur and magnificence.
+
+The plain of Morocco is bounded by that long ridge of mountains called
+_Atlas_, which screen the town from the scorching heat of the easterly
+winds, while the snow, with which their summits are covered, renders
+the climate more temperate than in other parts of
+Barbary. Notwithstanding the salubrity of the climate of Morocco, a
+residence there is rendered miserable, by the multitudes of scorpions,
+serpents, gnats, and bugs, which infest the town and its
+neighbourhood.
+
+His Imperial Majesty holds a court of justice here, previous to the
+commencement of the holidays, and also issues orders for a general
+ablution by men, women, and children, of every class: this, no doubt,
+is very necessary, as the common people seldom change their linen, and
+the greater part of them are covered with vermin. During the fast they
+dare not touch any food while the sun is up, and when at night they
+are allowed to break their fast, they absolutely make perfect beasts
+of themselves. Smoking, or chewing tobacco, and taking snuff, are
+strictly prohibited, by an edict from the Emperor: the vender is
+punished with the bastinado, and a confiscation of all his goods and
+cattle, and the buyer with six years imprisonment.
+
+Owing to the intense heat of the weather lately, there is a great
+scarcity of water: so that we were obliged to carry it up in bags made
+of goat-skin, to supply us on the road; and coming back we took the
+same precaution.
+
+When at Morocco, I was extremely anxious to visit _Mogedor_, a
+sea-port town, and the island of _Erythia_, now also called Mogedor,
+which island contains a castle of considerable strength, defended by a
+strong garrison, stationed there chiefly, as I have been told, to
+protect the gold-mines in the neighbourhood; but the distance was very
+great, and my time so limited, that I could not spare a fortnight,
+which it would at least have required to get there and back again. I
+have been returned here two days, and, as I observed before, not so
+much gratified as I expected.
+
+As I passed one of the courts of the palace yesterday, a fellow was
+receiving punishment for a robbery. The right hand and foot were
+severed at the articulation, by a single blow of a large axe; the
+stumps were immediately immersed in a vessel of boiling pitch; and in
+this miserable condition he was turned about his business. I once
+attended a man who had suffered these amputations; he soon recovered,
+and, to my great surprise, instead of sorrowing for his loss, he
+skipped about as nimbly as possible, and afterwards enlisted in the
+police. After the fellow was turned away yesterday, a peasant, who had
+walked nearly two hundred miles, presented himself before the Emperor,
+to complain of the Governor of his province, for not having done him
+justice in assisting him to recover a debt of about six shillings. The
+Emperor listened to his grievance, issued an order to enforce the
+payment of the debt, and gave the poor man a sum of money to enable
+him to return home.
+
+LETTER XVIII.
+
+_Moorish Character--Form of Devotion--Meals--Revenue--Poll-tax on the
+Jews--Royal Carriages--Ostrich-riding--Public Schools--Watch-dogs._
+
+
+Mequinez.
+
+The established religion of the Moors is Mahometan. Formerly, as well
+as at present, women were considered by the Moors as the mere objects
+of sensuality, and only esteemed while in full bloom. At the age of
+thirty, or at most forty, they were looked upon as an inferior order
+of beings, and doomed to the most abject and insupportable slavery:
+indeed, the latter circumstance still exists, though considerably
+mitigated. No wonder then that the doctrine of Mahomet should be
+cordially embraced by a people with whose inclinations it so exactly
+coincided. But that part only was adopted, which indulged them in the
+gratification of their wishes; that which imposed restraint was
+renounced, or only nominally acceded to. And fortunate it certainly is
+for the security of the neighbouring countries that they did so; as,
+when formerly they were inured from infancy to all the hardships of a
+warlike life, and possessed much skill in war, they were undoubtedly
+very formidable; but since their conversion to Mahometanism, they have
+gradually become inactive, and their natural passion for war and
+conquest has changed to absolute effeminacy.  The illiterate system of
+the Moors has also completely shut the door against the arts and
+sciences, and all knowledge of the value of a free and secure
+commerce. Yet, notwithstanding this people are no longer either in
+appearance or reality those fierce barbarians they once were, nor can
+their actions in point of valour bear any comparison with those of
+their ancestors, like them they retain a most inveterate antipathy to
+all Christians; and a propensity towards cruelty, revenge, rapine, and
+murder, still continues to form one of the most prominent features of
+their character.  However, under the comparatively mild government of
+the present Emperor, their behaviour towards Christians has visibly
+undergone a favourable change, which would almost persuade some to
+indulge a hope of the entire annihilation of their aversion; but I am
+sorry to add, that I am not so sanguine, as from accurate observation
+I have been led to conclude, that nothing but an immense length of
+time can overcome their habitual prejudices and constitutional
+inclinations.
+
+The male inhabitants of these states are obliged to attend their
+places of public worship four times in the course of twenty-four
+hours. The first prayer begins about half an hour before sun-rising,
+and is so regulated that they may, just as the sun rises, finish eight
+adorations. They pray again at noon, at sun-set, and at midnight: they
+are very fervent in their devotions, and always turn their faces
+towards the east: they fast three times in a year; the first time
+thirty days, the next nine, and the last seven: during these fasts
+they abstain from beans, garlic, and some other pulse and
+vegetables. They call the Almighty, _God of Gods_, and _Lord of
+Lords_; and they all believe that the souls of wicked men will be
+punished till a certain period, when they will be received to mercy.
+
+In the morning, after prayer, they drink strong tea, which they prefer
+to coffee. At eleven o'clock they, go to dinner, which consists of
+fruits, sweetmeats, and their favourite _cous-ca-sou_, piled up in a
+large wooden bowl.  Their chief meal is after their return from
+evening prayer. They eat cakes made of fine wheaten flour; and as they
+consider it a crime to cut bread or meat of any kind after it is
+dressed, these cakes are made so thin that they may be easily broken
+with the hands; and their meat, which is generally mutton or fowls, is
+so prepared that they can without difficulty separate it from the
+bones with their fingers. They sit cross-legged upon cushions, and
+devour their food very greedily and without the least
+ceremony. Although sobriety is strictly enjoined by the Mahometan law,
+yet the Moorish inhabitants of the principal towns in Barbary make
+free with most excellent wines and spirits of their own manufacture.
+
+The revenues of the Emperor have of late augmented prodigiously. He
+receives a tenth part of all the property of his Mahometan subjects;
+and he compels every Jew residing in his dominions to pay a poll-tax
+of six crowns annually. The number of Israelites subject to the
+Emperor of Morocco exceeds one hundred thousand. They are strictly
+guarded, and cruelly oppressed, and are not permitted to quit the
+states without a special leave from the Emperor, to obtain which they
+are obliged to pay down a large sum of money.
+
+The authority of the Emperor is unlimited, as is that of his
+Governors, who possess a power of life and death. No rank nor
+condition of Moors is exempt from taxation, excepting the immediate
+princes of the blood, and the _Xeriffes_, which are the only degrees
+of nobility the Moors have. The Xeriffes are the descendants of their
+monarchs, and their titles are hereditary: but the title of _Sheik_ is
+temporary; so that the respect paid to the Sheiks on account of their
+high situations expires with them.
+
+Coaches, carriages, and palanquins are used only by the Emperor. I
+have seen some, both here and at Fez, which are really elegant; they
+are for the use of his ladies when they go to spend the day in any of
+the Imperial gardens. The Emperor has several very handsome chariots,
+in one of which he usually rides, drawn by six mules. The Moors ride
+on horseback, attended by a number of slaves or soldiers, according to
+their rank and wealth.
+
+The princes of the blood and Xeriffes are not allowed to interfere in
+any political or public business, and are never consulted in state
+affairs. They are generally provided for, with sinecure places to
+support their rank, but many of these are too small to enable them to
+do so. The several Governors of provinces have each a large tract of
+land; and the tax collected from the venders and buyers in the weekly
+markets in their districts is also appropriated by them to defray the
+charges of their retinue and troops. From the vast crown lands in this
+country, the Emperor obtains sufficient for the expenses of the court,
+household, and great officers of state; from which circumstance, and
+what I have before said of his revenues, it is evident that his
+coffers must be most abundantly supplied, and his annual saving in
+ordinary cases very great. A detachment of troops from each province
+is sent every three months to collect the tributes, which are levied
+with the most unrelenting rigour. There are some vestiges of the
+Caliphate government still remaining; for in places where no military
+officer resides, the Mufti, or high-priest, is the fountain of all
+justice; he collects the tributes, and under him the Cadis or civil
+officers act in the same manner as our justices of the peace.
+
+The general language of the country is Arabic; but in the inland
+countries, in the provinces of Suz, Tafilet, and Gessula, the ancient
+African language is still spoken. Those remote districts are now under
+the sovereignty of the Emperor of Morocco; but I am told they contain
+nothing particularly curious, except an immense number of pelicans and
+ostriches, the latter so strong as to be able to carry a man upon
+their backs. I one day saw a Moor riding in a court here upon one,
+which he had got from those parts, and tamed for.  show.
+
+The Moors write in the manner of the Hebrew language, from right to
+left; they are wonderfully expeditious in it, and their seals are very
+neat. Public schools have lately been established in all the towns and
+villages of these states; but, as the children are taught by their
+priests, a set of superstitious and fanatic people, no great benefit,
+to change or improve their manners, can accrue from such an
+institution.
+
+I believe, in a former letter I told you that the peasantry reside in
+tents; I have however observed a few huts built of clay, but very
+few. In the centre of both the huts and tents, there is a hole dug in
+the ground, where they make a fire, with an outlet in the roof to vent
+the smoke. They generally burn wood, or a species of charcoal, in the
+preparation of which they contrive to deprive it of the baneful
+effects usually experienced from the use of it in England. They have
+mats spread round the fire, upon which they sit in the day, and sleep
+at night. They are so parsimonious, that they live the greater part of
+the year on fruit, vegetables, and fish, though they supply the
+markets with abundance of fowls (of which they rear immense numbers),
+butter, &c. &c. Their chief defence at night is their dogs; each tent
+is provided with one, and they are so vigilant, that they give instant
+notice of the approach of intruders; and when the alarm is
+communicated to the whole of them, it is scarcely possible to conceive
+the effect.  The habit of the peasantry is the same both winter and
+summer, and consists of a thick garment (frequently old and tattered),
+a short capote, a greasy turban, and a pair of yellow slippers. They
+sometimes throw round them a coarse white _haik_, which also serves
+for a bed and covering in the night, as many of them lie upon the bare
+ground in the open air before their tents.
+
+In my next I shall give you a short sketch of the produce of this
+fertile country.
+
+LETTER XIX.
+
+
+_Face and Produce of the Empire, natural and artificial_.
+
+Mequinez.
+
+The mountains (the principal of which are Mount Diur, Mount Cotta,
+near the city of Larache, the mountain commonly called _Ape's Hill_,
+between Tangiers and Ceuta, and that remarkable ridge called Mount
+Atlas) contain mines of gold, silver, copper, and tin.
+
+The chief capes or promontories of these states are, Cape Cottes or
+Ampelusia, known to our seafaring people by the name of Cape Spartel,
+the _Promontorium Herculis_, and the _Promontorium Oleastrum_, so
+called from the prodigious number of wild olives growing upon it.
+
+All the bays round the coast furnish an abundance of the most
+delicious fish of every kind; and the several rivers are equally
+productive.  The occasional overflow of the rivers greatly enriches
+and fertilizes the soil, to which, more than to their own industry
+(for they never manure their grounds, and are absolute strangers to
+the art of husbandry), are the Moors indebted for their plentiful
+crops of wheat, Turkey corn, rye, rice, oats, barley, and grain of all
+kinds.
+
+I have before told you that this country abounds in fine fruits. The
+most esteemed are, oranges, grapes, pomegranates, lemons, citrons,
+figs, almonds, and dates. The Moors also grow great quantities of
+excellent hemp and flax. Medicinal herbs and roots are very plentiful
+here. Vegetables of every kind, and melons, cucumbers, &c. thrive
+exceedingly well. The grass grows spontaneously to an amazing height,
+and in consequence of the fine pasturage the animals are very
+prolific, cows and mares producing two at a birth, and the sheep
+frequently four lambs in the year.
+
+Among the botanical herbs, plants, and roots, are the colocynth, palma
+Christi, wild and meadow saffron, the great mountain garlic, mountain
+satyrion, senna, rhubarb, bastard rhubarb, balsam apple, horned poppy,
+wild succory, recabilia peruviana, ipecacuanha, wild turnip, wild
+radish, field mustard, Indian cress, dandelion, black winter cherry,
+wild lily, hyacinth, violet, narcissus, wild rose, camomile, tulips,
+and the _fleur de lis_, equal to that of Florence; with a variety of
+others too numerous to describe.
+
+The domestic animals of these states are, the horse, ass, mule, rumrah
+(a beast of burden in the mountainous parts), camel, dromedary,
+antelope, cow, dog, sheep, and large goat. The beasts of prey are,
+lions, tigers, leopards, hyenas, and wolves. The apes are
+innumerable. Deer, wild boars, hares, rabbits, ferrets, weazels,
+moles, and camelions, are also found in great numbers. Horses and
+cattle of all kinds are sold at very low prices.
+
+Among the feathered tribe most common here, are, very large eagles,
+hawks, partridges, quails, wild pigeons, and wild fowl of every kind,
+turtle-doves, and a variety of small birds; among which the capsa
+sparrow is remarkable for the elegance of its plumage and the
+sweetness of its notes, in which it excels every other bird: this
+beautiful little creature cannot live out of its native country.  I
+had almost forgotten to mention the storks and cranes, which are seen
+here in great numbers, and so extremely tame, from being perfectly
+unmolested, that they build their nests and rear their young in the
+very centre of the towns and villages, and on the tops of the towers
+of their mosques. Of the reptile kind, venomous spiders, scorpions,
+vipers, and enormously large serpents, are common in Barbary.
+
+The greatest natural curiosities of this country are the salt-pits
+(which in some places are immensely large), and several hot springs,
+possessing such a great degree of heat, that an egg being put in for a
+short time will become quite hard. The face of the country itself is a
+natural curiosity; the vallies, which are several leagues in extent,
+and the mountains, which reach as far as the deserts of Suz, Tafilet,
+and Gessula, interspersed with forests or corn-fields, and rich
+meadows, are remarkably curious.
+
+The artificial curiosities are very numerous, and claim the attention
+of all who may visit this country. They ought properly to be divided
+into two classes; in the first of which may be placed the
+subterraneous cavern and passage near Tangiers; the ruins of the
+amphitheatres, triumphal arches, temples, &c.  erected by the
+Carthaginians, Romans, and Arabs, at Fez and the several other towns
+of Barbary. The country is besides all over scattered with the remains
+of ditches and ramparts, evidently designed for the defence of camps,
+forts, and castles, no other vestiges of which, however, can be
+found. Besides these, I have observed a number of round towers, which
+appear to have belonged, some to houses of religion, and others to the
+palaces or residences of former rulers in this country.
+
+In the second class, we may place the efforts of the architectural and
+mechanical genius of the present inhabitants, exemplified in the
+wonderful aqueducts at Morocco, which commence in Mount Atlas (by the
+natives called _Gibbel-el-Hadith_), and convey water in the greatest
+abundance to all the houses of the city and its environs. Nor is the
+wheel at Fez, which I mentioned in a former letter, less worthy of
+remark; and several mausoleums in their burial-places have been
+constructed in a very costly style, the stucco of the walls being
+remarkably smooth and beautiful, and as hard as marble; but these
+tombs are exceptions to the general rule; for, as I have before
+observed, the greater part are but rude buildings. There are many
+other curiosities, which to describe minutely would fill a volume.
+
+LETTER XX.
+
+_Practice of Physic--Astrology--Poetry--Entertainment given by the
+Author to the Moors--Their Astonishment at the Effects of
+Electricity_.
+
+
+Mequinez.
+
+I shall now speak of their principal or rather only studies, which
+are, physic, astrology, and poetry. First then of physic, to give you
+an accurate idea of the extent of their knowledge in which, it will be
+sufficient to describe their practice of it; and I am sure you, my
+dear D----, and every other friend to humanity, will agree with me,
+that it would have been better for their countrymen if they had never
+attempted it at all, as unassisted nature would do more, for those
+afflicted with disease, than such bunglers.
+
+The general practice adopted by the Moorish physicians, or _Tweebs_,
+is, bleeding _ad deliquium_ in all fevers; administering excessive
+doses of drastic medicines, plenty of emulsions, and a watery
+diet. They order vinegar in cases of quinsies and ardent fevers, and
+garlic in those of a putrid, malignant, and pestilential kind. They
+prescribe alum in cases of hemorrhage and dysentery; hot spices and
+long abstinences in chronic diseases; recent ox-gall to kill worms and
+cure dropsies; castor and myrrh in all hysteric affections; asses milk
+in slow fevers and consumptions; oranges, honey, eggs, mint, and
+myrrh, in cases of typhus; poppy-juice in convulsive disorders and
+fluxes of the bowels; pitch or tar water and pennyroyal in common
+fevers; rose-leaves in cases of diabetes; and sulphur in all cutaneous
+disorders. This is the whole of the Moorish _materia medica_.  In
+simple diseases, where little medical ability is necessary, and the
+good habit of body of these people in general contributes to their
+success, they may effect a cure; but in desperate cases, where nothing
+but the skill of the physician can relieve oppressed nature, it is not
+astonishing that they should fail. These men are in some measure
+astrologers: most probably, being gifted with a greater degree of
+cunning than their neighbours, they have discovered the weak side of
+their countrymen, together with their own insufficiency, to cover
+which they pretend to a knowledge of the stars, which has the greatest
+weight with the superstitious Moors; consequently, when a patient,
+either by their improper treatment, or the violence of his disease,
+evinces symptoms of approaching dissolution, the doctor, with infinite
+gravity, points out to the surrounding relations the star which, he
+positively asserts, appears to summon the dying man to the bosom of
+his Prophet. By this means he avoids reproach, since he has made it so
+evident, that the poor man's time was come, and that nothing could
+ward off the shafts of destiny.  This apparently wonderful faculty of
+prognostication, added to their exemplary mode of living, and liberal
+donations to the poor and afflicted, operating upon the minds of the
+blind and fanatic Moors, induces _them_ to consider their physicians
+next to their saints, and to worship _them_ with nearly as much
+reverence.
+
+The Tweebs have each from two to six disciples, whom they instruct and
+initiate in their secrets of the healing art. In their regular visits
+to any town, they parade the streets with great pomp and gravity,
+followed by a train of miserable objects, who pretend to have been
+recently recovered from a long and dangerous illness by the
+extraordinary skill of the doctor; while, in fact, their cadaverous
+countenances and emaciated bodies seem to contradict their assertions,
+and bear ample testimony that they are hurrying fast to that country,
+"from whose bourne no traveller returns."  Under the pretence of
+charity, these poor wretches are supported by this Moorish
+Aesculapius, while his views in so doing are entirely selfish; that
+by their means he may better impose on the credulous, and obtain
+considerable sums of money. When any one of them (by chance) effects
+what he considers a great cure, it is communicated in a circular
+letter to all the doctors in Barbary.
+
+They select one of their elders every year, and appoint him to preside
+over them. His business, for the time being, is to settle all their
+controversies: he is the fountain of all justice among them; for as
+they are looked upon to be petty saints, they are a privileged set of
+men, and not in the least subject to either civil or military
+jurisdiction. They possess the art of taming the monstrous serpents of
+the country, and rendering them perfectly harmless: in short, their
+profession is nothing but a system of the grossest empiricism.
+
+Formerly the country could boast of having scientific astronomers;
+for, like the ancient Egyptians, the inhabitants of Barbary cultivated
+the science of astronomy with great success; but as it was
+communicated from generation to generation by tradition only, it is
+not surprising that the increasing indolence of the Moors should have
+made them relinquish the more abstruse parts, and that now it is
+dwindled into mere astrology. Their habitual mode of living,
+frequently exposed at night, during all weathers, in the open air,
+enables them without difficulty to observe the fixed stars, and their
+influence on the weather, and they have thence ascribed to every one
+some peculiar property, by which the events of human life, good or
+bad, are regulated.
+
+In poetry I am told the Moors are very successful.  The subjects of
+their poems are mostly eulogies of the great men who have belonged to
+the tribe of which the poet is a member: these compositions are all
+extempore, like those of our ancient bards, or those of the Celts,
+spoken of by Julius Caesar, who wandered about in Gaul and other
+parts of the continent with their harps. The poets of Barbary have no
+settled home, but with an instrument somewhat resembling a mandolin
+they wander from place to place, and house to house, composing and
+singing pieces improviso, on the honour and antiquity of their
+tribe. From persons acquainted with the language, I have heard, that
+they are very happy in this species of poetry, which is far from
+deficient in point of harmony. For myself I can say, that though
+unable to enter into the spirit of it from the circumstance of not
+perfectly understanding the language, yet I was much pleased with the
+effect.
+
+I shall conclude this letter with a short description of an
+entertainment which I gave to several of the inhabitants of this place
+a few days since. Having invited as many as I could conveniently
+accommodate, I regaled them with all the most exquisite things the
+market afforded. I passed the bottle pretty briskly, telling them the
+liquor was a favourite decoction of mine, which they might drink
+without any scruple. They did not seem to wish to doubt this
+assertion; and having raised their spirits to a flow of mirth and
+jollity, I told them, that, as they had done me the honour of coming
+to dine with me, I would endeavour to amuse them with a small specimen
+of what the doctors in England commonly make use of in certain
+chronical complaints. I then placed my electric machine in the centre
+of the court, and having loaded it with a sufficient quantity of
+electric fluid, produced such a powerful shock to about a dozen of the
+stoutest, that, either from surprise or terror, they fell apparently
+senseless on the floor. The consternation and confusion which ensued
+were beyond description; the rest were all retiring precipitately with
+the most dreadful yells and cries imaginable, expecting to share the
+fate of their companions. With much difficulty I prevailed on them to
+remain, and, raising the men from the ground, I convinced them they
+had received no injury; upon which they unanimously attributed it to
+my great skill in magic, and loaded me with a thousand compliments, I
+repeated the experiment three or four times, to their inexpressible
+wonder, and I was at length almost hailed as a supernatural being. The
+report of this extraordinary phenomenon soon spread abroad, and a vast
+concourse of people assembled; but my guard would not allow any one to
+enter without my permission. In the evening I sent for a band of
+music, and my company continued dancing and rioting till morning. They
+brought in several Jewish women, and carried the farce to such a
+length, that I was completely rejoiced to get rid of them,
+determining, in my own mind, never again to venture such another
+entertainment.
+
+LETTER XXI.
+
+_Prevalent Diseases--Abuse of Stimulants--Medicinal
+Well--Sorcery--Hydrophobia._
+
+
+Mequinez.
+
+Although the plague is not so common in these states as in Turkey and
+Egypt, yet it is often brought hither by means of the caravans, and
+several articles of luxury imported annually by the merchants from
+Mecca and Medina; and, for want of proper precaution, it is suffered
+to spread, to desolate, and to stop of its own accord; for the Moors
+continue obstinately blinded by the same superstitious and absurd
+notions that are entertained by the Mahometans of the Turkish empire,
+of its being a punishment occasionally inflicted upon the true
+believers by their angry Prophet, and that it is incurable; and here I
+receive on this subject the same tales and romantic accounts that I
+did during my residence in Egypt in the year 1801.
+
+The most prevailing diseases in this country that have come under my
+observation, are, cutaneous disorders of all kinds, intermittent
+fevers, those of a putrid, malignant, pestilential kind, and the
+puerperal fever, which proceeds from the barbarous treatment of
+lying-in women in this country, as they are kept in small confined
+rooms, deprived of the benefit of pure air.
+
+One day I went to see a very fine young woman, the lady of one of the
+Xeriffes. The heat of the room was intolerable. After much persuasion,
+I succeeded in having her removed to a cooler one, and she recovered,
+contrary to the predictions of the female attendant, who reported the
+daily changes to a celebrated doctor here. It is wonderful what
+numbers of young women fall victims to this fever in the course of a
+year.
+
+Besides the above-mentioned complaints, I have observed insanity,
+epilepsy, spasmodic affections of the face, ruptures of all kinds
+(which last are produced by their loose kind of trowsers); nervous
+consumptions, extreme debility, and dropsy, brought on by their
+indolent manner of living, and the great abuses of violent doses of
+drastic medicines.
+
+The principal and opulent inhabitants of this country, in order to
+excite certain desires, are frequently in the habit of receiving, from
+their own doctors, several strong and powerful stimulants, to the
+infallible detriment and ultimate, destruction of their
+constitutions. I have been at great pains to deter them from these
+abominable habits, by representing to them their ill effects and fatal
+consequences; but as they all appear to have a great propensity for a
+short life and a merry one, I fear my advice has been thrown away, for
+I have daily the most pressing and importunate solicitations from all
+classes of people, both young and old, to give them the medicines I
+have alluded to:--but 1 must here be clearly understood, that
+debauchery which exists in all the principal towns of this country in
+a superlative degree, does not extend to the inland and mountainous
+parts, where the morals are pure, and the people remarkably healthy,
+strong, and robust, living to a very advanced age, and scarcely ever
+afflicted with any disease excepting cutaneous disorders, to which
+they are very subject. The great abuse of blood-letting on all
+trifling occasions, practised by the rich inhabitants, produces very
+bad effects.
+
+There is a well in the neighbourhood of this town, which possesses a
+great many medicinal virtues; and though I have not been able to
+ascertain its mineral qualities, I have found, by using the water,
+that it is extremely friendly to the stomach, that it excites appetite
+and digestion, and lively spirits; that it is efficacious in the cure
+of gravel and nephritic complaints; and in cases of foulness of the
+blood, I have found it superior to any mineral waters I have met with
+in Europe.  It has completely cured my Jew servant of a most
+inveterate scurvy, under which he had laboured for a very considerable
+time.
+
+Notwithstanding the Moors possess this inestimable treasure near one
+of their most opulent and populous cities, yet, owing to fabulous
+tales, handed down by tradition from one generation to another, these
+superstitious people will never drink or disturb the water; to do so
+is reckoned sacrilege, and the offender is severely punished: for they
+positively affirm, that one of their great saints has been transmuted
+into it, and that at some distant period he will resume his natural
+form, to perform a great many miracles, and to render the Moors rich
+and happy, more so indeed than Mahomet has promised them in the other
+world.
+
+While I have been here, I have had daily intercourse with the most
+eminent of their Tweebs. They pay me regular morning visits,
+questioning me on several points. One day I was asked by what means
+health was preserved, and what produced disease in the human body; I
+answered, that, "among several other remote causes, the air, by its
+different constitutions, had a great effect upon the human frame: that
+diseases revolve periodically, and keep time and measure exactly with
+the seasons of the year; and that either health or disease depended in
+some measure on the universal influence of the air, by its gravity,
+heat, cold, moisture, dryness, or exhalations."  They have no idea of
+natural philosophy, nor of the knowledge and physiology of the air, or
+how to change and destroy its bad qualities in close and confined
+places. After much persuasion, I prevailed on some of them to make use
+of the fuming mixture of brimstone and aromatic ingredients, in all
+cases of pestilential fevers.  Though this is not so efficacious as
+the nitrous acid, yet it will considerably abate the progress of
+contagion, and they are acquainted with the materials of the former,
+whereas they have not the smallest idea of the latter.
+
+They are perfectly ignorant of the animal and comparative anatomy, and
+of physiology and pathology. They have no notion either of the nervous
+fluid, or of the solids, their restriction and relaxation. They have
+no other idea of the fluids than the blood, to a superabundance of
+which they attribute all the diseases incident to the human body. In
+the spring they recommend bleeding, to ensure a good state of health
+for the remainder of the year. These Tweebs are wonderfully reserved
+in all their actions.
+
+The Moors have great faith in sorcery and witchcraft. I was called
+upon to visit a young man about eighteen, who was universally believed
+to be possessed by an evil spirit.  His case was a confirmed
+hydrophobia. I informed the people that the disease was occasioned by
+the bite of a mad dog, and that the man would die in the course of the
+ensuing night. I inquired the next morning, when I found that I had
+judged correctly. I have also visited several young women who were
+reported to have been bewitched. Some I found labouring under the last
+stage of a nervous consumption; others under a dangerous and incurable
+lunacy. In short, nothing can exceed the ignorance and superstition of
+these deluded people.
+
+I am afraid, my dear D----, I have trespassed on your patience, both
+in this letter and the last, as nothing but physic and its
+practitioners have been introduced and discussed.  I have certainly
+been too selfish; for, while I have been pursuing a subject the most
+interesting to me from the nature of my profession, a thought never
+once obtruded itself, that my friend perhaps would take no interest in
+the relation. However, by way of compensation, I give you leave to
+wish the Moorish physicians and their physic at the bottom of the Red
+Sea, and me with them, if you choose; but I have now done with them,
+and my next will, most probably, not be from Mequinez, as I think I
+have a good opportunity of returning to Gibraltar.
+
+LETTER XXII.
+
+
+_Depart for Gibraltar--Oppressive Heat--Robbers--Arrive at
+Larache--Affray of some English Sailors--Letter from the Governor to
+Lord Collingwood._
+
+Larache, August I, 1806.
+
+
+
+I was perfectly right in my conjectures, that you would hear no more
+from me at Mequinez.  Having succeeded in curing the patients under my
+care, and no disease of any consequence prevailing in the country, I
+thought it a favourable opportunity to request permission of the
+Emperor to return to Gibraltar; and having obtained it, I set off for
+this place.
+
+On my way hither, I experienced the most dreadful inconvenience from
+the heat of the weather; it was oppressive in the extreme, and I was
+constantly annoyed with the sight of dead horses, mules, asses, cows,
+&c. that had perished on the road, from excessive heat and want of
+water. The rivers which I had observed on my way to Mequinez, and the
+waters of which I had so much relished, I now found completely dried
+up. We also suffered considerably from the want of fresh water, for
+that we had brought with us in bags became so hot, that nothing but
+the most dire necessity could have compelled us to make use of it;
+fortunately we now and then met with fields full of fine water-melons,
+of a most exquisite flavour: we sought them with the greatest avidity,
+and obtained relief from the excessive thirst with which we were
+oppressed. We were obliged to make very short stages, and to halt
+every hour under the shade of some tall trees, to recover ourselves.
+
+I have had two or three most unpleasant encounters (on my way from
+Mequinez) with robbers. In the first I ran the risk of my life. It was
+the sixth day after we left Mequinez, as I was loitering considerably
+in the rear of my party, I was accosted by a common Moor on horseback,
+who, after surveying me from head to foot, asked for a pinch of snuff,
+which I gave him; then spying the gold chain of my watch, he attempted
+to seize it; but I prevented him by spurring my horse and galloping
+off to join my guard: the fellow fired his piece, which fortunately
+missed, and gave me an opportunity of returning the compliment, and of
+wounding him; when perceiving my guard coming at full speed to my
+assistance, wounded as he was, he made off across the fields, and was
+soon out of sight. This event (which, had I been in other
+circumstances, would have had no weight with me) I frankly confess so
+much agitated my spirits, already exhausted by the intense heat and
+intolerable thirst under which I suffered, that I found myself unable
+to proceed much further. At a little distance was a forest, and to the
+shade of that we determined to repair for the rest of the day,
+provided we could find a convenient spot to pitch our tents upon. We
+reached it about nine o'clock in the morning: I was assisted to
+dismount, and stretching myself on the burnt grass, under a clump of
+olive-trees, I desired my men to look about for a place to erect our
+tents. After a few minutes absence, they returned with the joyful
+intelligence, that they had met with a fine spring of water, and near
+it a sufficient space for our tents. This might indeed be called
+resuscitation to our drooping spirits. I arose with more alertness
+than I thought possible, and followed my men to this delightful
+spot. My wine was expended, and we were therefore glad of a glass of
+spirits and water, which completely recovered us; and we were enabled
+to enjoy a good dinner, which my Jew servant prepared.
+
+We encamped, on this spot, for the night also; and from the occurrence
+of the morning, I thought it highly expedient to take every measure to
+prevent a repetition. I therefore ordered two or three fires to be
+kindled round our tents, and placed several sentinels about, to watch
+if any one approached. Having made these arrangements, and given
+strict orders to the serjeant to be on the alert, I repaired to rest;
+but there certainly was some spell, to prevent my enjoying what I
+stood so much in need of, a _sound_ sleep. I had retired, but a very
+short time, to my tent, when I was suddenly roused by an alarm of The
+robbers!  the robbers! The ruffians had contrived to slip in so
+privately, that, unperceived, they carried off one of my trunks, and
+were in the act of mounting two of my mules, when they were
+detected. They instantly made off with the trunk and mules. The
+confusion among my people was much greater than was necessary, and
+some time was lost in useless upbraidings.
+
+I went out with the intention of calling the serjeant to a severe
+account, when I was informed that he had just gone in pursuit with six
+others. Those that remained kept vigilant watch with me the rest of
+the night. At break of day our party returned. They soon came up with
+the robbers, who, finding themselves so closely pursued, and likely to
+be overtaken, relinquished their booty to facilitate their escape. I
+had the satisfaction therefore to recover my trunk and mules. The
+serjeant employed the whole of his rhetorical abilities to give weight
+to the affair. I soon perceived that his account was much exaggerated,
+and immediately comprehended that his drift was to obtain a reward
+from me. I did not disappoint him, but ordered an extra allowance of
+rum to him and the rest of the party. As you may suppose, I was very
+anxious to quit a place where I had been made so uneasy, I ordered the
+tents to be struck; and, after riding five hours, we halted near a
+village, upon a pleasant hill about thirty miles from Larache, where
+we were abundantly supplied with provisions by the Cadi. From this
+place we had a most delightful prospect of the Atlantic Ocean to our
+left, and, to the right and front, an extensive forest and an immense
+plain of corn-fields and meadows. We set forward again at daybreak;
+and by pursuing our journey in the afternoon, for it was utterly
+impossible to travel in the middle of the day, we reached this city
+(Larache) late in the evening.
+
+After breakfast next morning, as I was going up to the Castle to pay
+my devoirs to the worthy Governor, my attention was arrested by a
+great riot in the street. Perceiving four of our sailors likely to
+become the victims of an enraged multitude, I hastened to their
+relief.  I found that the disturbance was occasioned by their
+imprudence in attempting to inspect the face of a Moorish woman. They
+belonged to a Gibraltar privateer, which had just arrived at this port
+to take in refreshment.  Having drank too much _aguardiente_ they
+imagined themselves in the streets of Gibraltar. I found no great
+difficulty in prevailing on the mob not to injure them, and in
+ensuring them a safe conduct back to their vessel. I recommended the
+commander of the privateer to put to sea without loss of time. The
+Governor not only forgave the offence, but sent plenty of fresh
+provisions on board for the ship's company just as the vessel was
+getting under way.
+
+Commanders of armed vessels putting into a port of these states should
+not, on any account, suffer their men to go on shore, as they are very
+apt to ridicule the Moors, who are a set of people not to be trifled
+with. To prevent, therefore, any unpleasant occurrences, that may tend
+to lessen the high opinion which the Moors in general entertain of the
+English, and in order to defeat the views of the French party, which
+are incessantly directed towards forming dangerous cabals against the
+interest of the British nation, some effectual means ought to be
+applied. The Moors are very fickle, and their predilection may be
+converted into hatred, which is exactly the point the French aim at,
+to the great detriment of our fleet stationed in those seas, but
+particularly to the garrison of Gibraltar, and would ultimately
+involve us in an unprofitable war.
+
+His Excellency has written to Lord Collingwood, to request a vessel to
+convey me to Gibraltar; he has very handsomely given me a copy of the
+letter he sent, which I inclose for your perusal.
+
+
+"Larache, July 27th, 1806.
+
+"MY LORD,
+
+"His Imperial Majesty has been pleased to bestow on Dr. Buffa many
+presents, consisting of horses, mules, &c. &c.  and entertains a great
+regard for him on account of the good he has done in Barbary; my Royal
+Master has also been graciously pleased to give him a letter to the
+King of England, intreating that the Doctor be permitted to attend the
+Emperor occasionally, and to reside for the future, for that service,
+at Tangiers or Gibraltar.
+
+"In compliance with His Imperial Majesty's wishes, I have now most
+earnestly to request that your Lordship will be pleased to order
+Dr. Buffa a sure conveyance to the garrison of Gibraltar, and one of
+His Majesty's transports to receive the presents given to him, as a
+reward for his merit, and for his good and steady conduct during his
+stay with us. The Doctor carries with him the good wishes of all the
+Moors attached to my Royal Master; and I have the honour to assure
+your Lordship, that he has daily exerted himself with me, and lately
+with His Imperial Majesty, for the service of his King, and for that
+of his fellow-subjects at Gibraltar. On this account alone I hope your
+Lordship will, as soon as possible, afford him an opportunity to join
+his family, at Gibraltar, in safety.
+
+"I have the honour to be,
+
+"My Lord,
+
+"Your Lordship's
+
+"Friend and servant,
+
+(Signed)
+
+"MOHAMMED ABDALLAH ESLAWEE,
+
+Governor of Larache, &c. &c. &c.
+
+_To the Right Hon. Lord Collingwood,
+Admiral and Commander in Chief, &c. &c. &c._
+
+
+
+
+LETTER XXIII.
+
+Embark for Gibraltar--Precautionary Hints.
+
+
+                            Gibraltar.
+
+In compliance with the request of the Governor of Larache, His
+Majesty's hired armed ship the Lord Eldon was ordered by Lord
+Collingwood to convey me to this place. She arrived at Larache about a
+week after I wrote last. The bar unfortunately proved so bad, that she
+was obliged to drop her anchor on the outside; and the Captain,
+conceiving it an unsafe anchorage, pressed me to repair on board
+without delay, which I did, after taking a long farewell of my noble
+friend the Governor, who, with tears in his eyes, embraced me, and
+otherwise evinced his infinite regret and true friendship.
+
+We embarked all my horses, mules, &c.  &c. without any accident, and
+immediately after set sail for Tangiers. I cannot find words to
+describe the interesting, curious, and romantic appearance of the
+Barbary coast, from Larache to Tangiers, when viewed from the sea. I
+took my station on the quarter-deck, and, as we sailed close in shore,
+my curiosity was fully gratified. There are several small bays and
+creeks along this coast, which unfortunately afford shelter to the
+enemy's privateers, where, in perfect security, they remain concealed,
+watching an opportunity to come out and seize any of our straggling
+vessels that have either separated from, or are waiting for convoy to
+enter the Straits.
+
+It is a great pity that the number of our gun-boats at this port
+(Gibraltar) is so limited, as a larger number of them, and a few other
+small vessels kept in readiness here, and well appointed, would
+protect our commerce, and prevent our suffering so much from the
+Spanish boats, and several small French cruizers, which infest this
+part of the world, and almost daily capture some of our merchantmen,
+which they carry into Algesiras in sight of this garrison.
+
+
+
+
+
+APPENDIX.
+
+
+
+No. I.
+
+Copy of a Letter from JOHN TURNBULL, Esquire, Chairman to the Board of
+Trade, to E. COOKE, Esquire, Under Secretary of State, &c. &c. &c.
+
+
+SIR,
+
+In my capacity of General Chairman of the Merchants trading to the
+Mediterranean, and in consequence of the commercial relations which I
+have long maintained with Gibraltar, I think it my duty to submit,
+with great deference, to the consideration of Lord Castlereagh certain
+observations respecting the late dreadful calamity, which afflicted
+that garrison. The great mortality which then prevailed, and which
+carried off almost the whole of the civil inhabitants, was in a great
+degree to be imputed to the want of medical assistance for the poorer
+classes of the people, who are chiefly foreigners. The physicians and
+surgeons attached to the army, had every moment of their time fully
+occupied by the care of the troops immediately under their charge. If
+even they could have spared a little attention to the miserable
+objects just mentioned, it could probably have produced but a very
+inadequate effect. As the medical gentlemen could not be supposed to
+be acquainted with the various foreign dialects that these people
+could only make use of, they were therefore obliged to be abandoned to
+their fate; and by their numerous deaths, and the intercourse they had
+with one another, necessarily occasioned a deplorable increase of
+contagion. It is therefore respectfully suggested, that, as the return
+of such a disorder ought at any rate to be guarded against, it would
+be highly desirable, that a medical gentleman, conversant with the
+languages of the southern parts of Europe, should be appointed as
+physician to the civil inhabitants of Gibraltar, and for their express
+and immediate care. There is now in London, a gentleman (Doctor
+Buffa), Physician to His Majesty's Forces, who appears to be
+peculiarly well qualified for such an appointment. He is possessed of
+superior medical abilities, and particularly in the disorders of the
+plague and yellow-fever, in the treatment of which he has had much
+experience and success; and having been born in Piedmont, he is well
+acquainted with the southern languages of Europe. If Lord Castlereagh
+should be pleased to approve of Doctor Buffa being placed at
+Gibraltar, in the situation which I have taken the liberty to suggest,
+it would occasion no extraordinary expense to Government, Doctor Buffa
+being now one of the Physicians to the Army, and might eventually be
+productive of the most beneficial effects.
+
+
+  I have the honour to be, most respectfully,
+        SIR,
+   Your most obedient and
+   Most humble servant,
+   (Signed)          JOHN TURNBULL.
+
+Guilford Street, 5th August 1805.
+
+E. Cooke, Esq.
+&c. &c. &c.
+
+
+
+No. II.
+
+Letter from the Secretary of the Transport Board to Dr. BUFFA.
+
+
+Transport Office, 16th October 1805.
+
+SIR,
+
+I am directed by the Board to acquaint you, that a passage to
+Gibraltar has been provided for yourself, Mrs. Buffa, your family and
+brother-in-law, on board the Active transport; and that you may embark
+on board that ship at Deptford immediately.
+
+I am further directed to add, that it will be necessary for you to
+find your own provisions.
+
+
+    I am, Sir,
+    Your most obedient servant,
+    A. WHITEHEAD, Secretary.
+
+    _To Dr. Buffa,
+    &c. &c. &c._
+
+
+No. III.
+
+Extract of a Letter from JOHN TURNBULL, Esq. Chairman of the
+Committee of Merchants trading to the Levant, &c. to Dr. BUFFA.
+
+MY DEAR SIR,
+
+On your arrival at Gibraltar, I was favoured with two letters from
+you; but have not since had the pleasure of hearing from you. Nor have
+I written to you, as, notwithstanding the unremitting endeavours, and
+the constant attention, on every occasion, of His Royal Highness and
+myself, it has not been in our power to do any thing effectual to
+serve you. The Medical Board _continue to give all the opposition that
+they possibly can_, and made a very unfavourable report, in
+consequence of a strong representation that I made in your favour to
+Mr. Windham.
+
+London, 7th July 1806.
+
+
+
+No. IV.
+
+Extract of a Letter from JOHN ROSS, Esq. Acting
+Consul General at Tangiers, to Dr. BUFFA.
+
+Friday, 7th May 1806.
+
+DEAR SIR,
+
+I heard only to-day of your arrival at
+Tetuan on your way to Larache, and this evening
+received an express from Indy Mahamed Slawey,
+Governor of that place, to request that, if I knew
+you had been in this country, you would use
+every possible endeavour to come to him at
+Larache; and to accompany him to the Emperor
+who wished to see you.
+
+Let me therefore request your moving as quick
+as possible to Larache direct from Tetuan, and
+join him before he departs. Should you miss
+him, he has left orders to his Lieutenant-governor
+there, to forward you to Sidy immediately.
+
+
+
+
+No. V.
+
+Letter written to JOHN ROSS, Esq. Acting Consul General at Tangiers.
+
+
+Larache, May 17th, 1806.
+
+SIR,
+
+His Excellency the Governor of this place having last evening received
+a letter from the Emperor, inclosing a communication transmitted by
+the French Consul, together with a note from Paris, His Excellency has
+honoured me with both to peruse. Their contents were the most severe
+philippics against England; our blessed government was represented the
+most perfidious and treacherous in the world, and great art used to
+excite distrust, and to produce a rupture with England. M. Talleyrand
+informs His Imperial Majesty, by command, of the taking of Naples, and
+the republic of Ragusa; that Bonaparte, for certain political reasons,
+has thought it expedient to appoint Louis Bonaparte King of Holland;
+and Joseph, his other brother, King of the Two Sicilies: that it was
+Bonaparte's determination to exclude the English from every port in
+Europe: that Ceuta should, as soon as an opportunity offers, be
+occupied entirely by French troops; that Spain and Portugal would soon
+become provinces of France, and that His Imperial Majesty could do no
+better thing than to abandon the English, and make common cause with
+France: that the French Consul was charged to demand five thousand
+bullocks, as many horses and mules; wheat and barley for the French
+forces: that an equivalent in territory should be given to the
+Emperor, and a certain scheme submitted to the Court of Morocco highly
+honourable and advantageous to Barbary.
+
+I told His Excellency to be on his guard; for that, by art, Bonaparte
+has enslaved, plundered, and overturned the continent of Europe: that
+I could not help ridiculing the idea of exporting provisions and
+cattle from Barbary: that Bonaparte might cause them to be exported by
+air-balloons, but by no other means or conveyance, while England rules
+the seas. I availed myself of this opportunity of delineating the
+features of the Great Nation, and relating the acts and deeds of
+Bonaparte at Alexandria, Acre, and Jaffa; which had the desired
+effect. He then confidentially informed me, that the Emperor had
+commanded him to reply to the French government as he deemed most
+conducive to the interest and good of Barbary: that he should cut
+matters short: that proper steps should be taken to defeat their
+cabals and intrigues, and a watchful eye kept for the future on the
+motions of the French Consul, and all his agents; and that I might
+assure the British government, that his influence shall always be used
+for the interests of the English. Upon which I thanked him, and told
+him that the Emperor might always command my services, whenever he
+deemed them necessary.
+
+You will no longer apprehend the ascendancy of the French in this part
+of the world, as it is all over with them; nor will they ever succeed
+as long as this excellent Moorish Chief guides the councils of thee
+Emperor.
+
+I remain, with due respect,
+
+SIR,
+
+Your Most obedient servant,
+
+JOHN BUFFA.
+
+To John Ross, Esq.
+Acting Consul General,                                '
+Tangiers.
+
+No. VI.
+
+Letter from Captain STEWART, of His Majesty's
+Ship Seahorse, to ----.
+
+
+His Britannic Majesty's Frigate Seahorse, June 1806.
+
+MOST  NOBLE AND EXCELLENT SIR,
+
+Presuming on the great friendship between our royal masters, I have
+sent an officer on shore to request of you, leave to purchase some
+cattle, sheep, and fowls, for myself, my officers and crew, who have
+been long cruizing without fresh provisions. He is authorized to draw
+bills on the British government for the amount of the purchase, which
+I will approve and sign.
+
+The quantity of cattle we want, will be about twenty-five, of sheep
+about eighteen, and of fowls about twelve dozen (besides some eggs and
+vegetables), more or less, according to the price.
+
+May the light of Heaven be shed upon you many years!
+
+
+           I have the honour to be, with great respect,
+                      Your most obedient humble servant,
+                             JOHN STEWART, Captain.
+
+
+
+No. VII.
+
+    Letter from Lord COLLINGWOOD to His Excellency
+               the Governor of Larache.
+
+                           Ocean, off Cadiz, 8th July 1806.
+
+MOST EXCELLENT GOVERNOR,
+
+I have received the letter which Your Excellency directed to be wrote
+by Dr. Buffa to one of my officers who sent to Larache for stock; and
+I beg to express to you the great satisfaction I have in every
+instance which demonstrates the friendship which is entertained, by
+His Imperial Majesty, for the King of Great Britain, and his subjects;
+and to assure Your Excellency, that, on my part, I shall always be
+happy in every opportunity of shewing you, that the same sentiment of
+friendship and kindness is felt by us towards the Moors.
+
+I am much obliged to Your Excellency for the supplies of refreshment,
+which you are pleased to offer to my ships, which may call at Larache.
+And wishing you health,
+
+I am,
+
+Most excellent Governor,
+
+Your friend and servant.
+
+COLLINGWOOD.
+
+To His Excellency
+
+the Governor of Larache.
+
+
+
+No. VIII.
+
+Letter to the Right Honourable Lord COLLINGWOOD, &c. &c. &c.
+
+Michanez, July 16th, 1808.
+
+MY LORD,
+
+I am instructed by His Excellency the Governor of Larache, and
+principal minister of the Emperor of Morocco, to acknowledge the
+receipt of your Lordship's letter, directed to him at Larache, of the
+8th instant, and feel great satisfaction in being able thus to convey
+His Excellency's assurance to your Lordship, that nothing shall be
+wanting on his part to forward (which is verbatim what he directed me
+to write) the interest of the English, as long as he shall retain any
+influence with his royal master; that he has always felt great
+pleasure in promoting the views and wishes of the late English Consul,
+and shall ever continue the same.
+
+He has represented to His Imperial Majesty the affair of the French
+privateer, which was driven on shore near Tangiers, by one of your
+Lordship's small vessels. His Excellency commands me to inform your
+Lordship, that His Imperial Majesty highly approves of the noble and
+generous conduct of the English on that occasion, and deprecates that
+of the French, lamenting, that when the marauders landed on the
+Moorish shore, his subjects did not put every Frenchman to death.
+
+His Imperial Majesty greatly laments the undeserved treatment which
+was offered near Tetuan to one of your Lordship's officers, by an
+unworthy officer under the command of Governor Ash-Ash. His Imperial
+Majesty, at His Excellency's representation, solicited by me, has
+written, some time since, a letter to Ash-Ash, strictly enjoining and
+commanding him to favour the interest of the English only, and not to
+take any French part directly or indirectly, on pain of His Majesty's
+eternal displeasure; the more so, as His Imperial Majesty's solicitude
+and resolve is now to keep up that friendship and good understanding
+which has hitherto been evinced on all occasions on the part of the
+King of Britain, and His Imperial Majesty, who desires to be made
+known to your Lordship his decided partiality to the English. His
+Excellency wishes your Lordship health and prosperity.
+
+I have the honour to be, my Lord,
+
+Your Lordship's
+
+Most obedient humble servant,
+
+J. BUFFA.
+
+    To His Excellency
+    Lord Collingwood,
+    &c. &c. &c.
+
+    By order of Mahomed Abdalah Eslawee,
+    Governor of Larache, and first Minister
+    to the Emperor.
+
+
+
+No. IX.
+
+Translation of a Letter written by His Excellency the Governor of
+Larache, And first Minister to the Emperor of Morocco, to the Right
+Honourable Lord COLLINGWOOD.
+
+Larache, July 27th, 1806.
+
+His Imperial Majesty having been pleased to permit Doctor Buffa to
+return to Gibraltar, and entertaining a great regard for him, on
+account of the good he has done in Barbary, the Emperor has also been
+pleased to testify the same in a letter written with his own hand, to
+the King of Great Britain, strongly pressing His Majesty that the
+Doctor may be permitted to attend him occasionally, and to reside upon
+a fixed appointment at Gibraltar. In compliance with His Imperial
+Majesty's wishes, I have now most earnestly to request that your
+Lordship will be pleased to order him a sure and commodious conveyance
+for Gibraltar, and to take in the presents he has received as a reward
+for his merit, and for his good and steady conduct during his stay
+with us. The Doctor carries with him the good wishes of all the Moors
+attached to my Royal and Imperial Master; and I have the honour to
+assure your Lordship, that he has daily exerted himself with me, and
+lately with the Emperor, for the service of His Majesty's navy, and
+for the garrison of Gibraltar.
+
+On this account alone, I hope your Lordship will, as soon as possible,
+afford him an opportunity of joining his family in safety.
+
+
+             Health and prosperity.
+
+                 (Signed)
+         MAHOMED BEN ABDALAH ESLAWEE.
+
+
+
+No. X.
+
+Translation of a Letter, in the Arabic Language, from Sultan SOLYMAN
+BEN MAHOMED, Emperor of Morocco, to His Majesty GEORGE the Third, King
+of Great Britain, &c, &c, &c. &c.
+
+In the name of God, the all-merciful and commiserating God; on whom is
+our account, and whose support we acknowledge; for there is neither
+creation, nor power, but that which proceeds from God, the high and
+eternal God.
+
+From the servant of God, the commander of the faithful in Mahomed,
+upheld and supported by the grace of God, Solyman the son of Mahomed,
+the son of Abd' Allah, the son of Ismael, Prince of Hassenie, ever
+upheld by the power of God, Sultan of Fez, of Morocco, of Suze, of
+Dea'ha, of Tafilet, and of Tuat, together with all the territories of
+the Garban West.
+
+                     /--------------\
+                    /      L .S.     \
+                   /   Solyman the    \
+                  | Son  of  Mahommed, |
+                  |      &c.  &c.      |
+                  |    God illumine    |
+                  |     and support    |
+                   \       him,       /
+                    \    &c. &c.     /
+                     \--------------/
+
+To our cherished, our dearly beloved brother (who is exalted by the
+power of God), Sultan George the Third, Sultan of the territories of
+the United Kingdom of Great Britain and Ireland, Duke of Mecklenberg,
+Prince descended from the line or dynasty of the Emperors of Rome and
+Palestine.
+
+This premised, we inform you, that we continually make diligent and
+friendly inquiry concerning you, desiring from our heart, that you may
+be at all times surrounded by wealth and prosperity. We wish you to
+increase in friendship with us, that our alliance may be stronger than
+heretofore, even stronger than it was in the days of our ancestors,
+whom God guard and protect. Now therefore we make known to you, that
+your physician and servant Dr. Buffa has been in our royal presence,
+which is exalted by the bounty of God; and we have been pleased with
+his medical knowledge and diligent attention; and moreover with the
+relief he hath given to us. We have therefore to entreat or to ask of
+you, to give him your royal order to return to our neighbourhood, to
+Gibraltar, well provided with all good and necessary medicines; that
+he, residing at Gibraltar, may be ready to attend quickly on our royal
+person, whenever we may stand in need of his medical assistance: we
+trust you will therefore return him immediately without delay or
+procrastination; seeing that he has been of essential service to us.
+And we recommend you to exalt Dr. Buffa in your favour, and we will
+always be your allies and friends. May you be ever surrounded by
+wealth and prosperity! Peace be with you! The fourth day of the month
+of Jumad Elute, in the year of the Hagira 1222, answering to
+the fifth or sixth of July 1807.
+
+Done into the English as literally as the incompatibility of the
+idioms of the two languages would admit of, by JAMES GRAY JACKSON,
+professor of African and Arabic languages.
+
+Fenchurch Buildings, July 1807.
+
+
+
+No. XI.
+
+
+Translations from the Arabic. The first received the 18th January; the
+latter, 6th July, 1808.
+
+
+    In the name of God, from Mahomed Ben
+    Abdalah Eslawee, Governor of Tetuan, Tangiers,
+    and its dependencies, &c. &c. &c.
+
+
+                To Doctor BUFFA.
+
+
+Since your departure from us, we have not received any letter, nor
+heard from you; so not having heard any thing of you, we are much
+uneasy and concerned about you: for we love you. We are ordered by the
+sacred commands of our Sultan, to require you will acquaint us how you
+are, if any thing has happened you; and that you will return to us
+with an answer to the sacred letter entrusted to you, with a fresh
+supply of medicines, according to your promise.
+
+We also request you will endeavour to obtain from the English
+Government, two masts for a frigate, of forty-five feet each, which
+you will cause to be sent by a frigate to Larache; and all the
+expense which may occur, will be paid without fail. We hope you will
+assist as much as possible in this business; and we wish you health,
+prosperity, and a speedy return among us.
+
+(Signed)
+
+MAHOMED BEN ABDALAH ESLAWEE.
+
+In the Year of the Hagira 1223.
+
+
+
+No. XII.
+
+The second Letter, prefaced as the former, to Doctor BUFFA.
+
+We have continued to make incessant inquiries after you, but all to no
+purpose. What has become, or befallen you, we know not; nothing, we
+hope, very bad. We consider you a very good man, honest and
+honourable; you cannot wilfully forfeit your sacred pledge, your
+promise, your honour to return to us. We were afraid you were dead,
+but we heard lately you are alive, and resident in London. Return then
+to the presence of our great Sultan, and every thing you will
+reasonably ask for your nation shall be granted to your nation, shall
+be granted to you. The supplies shall be increased to Gibraltar, and
+you will be treated as before, and, if possible, better still; for we
+love you. Return then without fear to the presence of our great
+Sultan, and prove yourself a true Englishman, by keeping your
+promise. We wish you good health and prosperity.
+
+(Signed)
+
+MAHOMED BEN ABDALAH ESLAWEE.
+
+Tetuan.
+
+In the Year of the Hagira 1223.
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
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